YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

Bought with the income
of the
ANN S. FARNAM FUND

John P. Arthur.

Western
North Carolina

A HISTORY
(FROM 1730 TO 1913)

BY
JOHN PRESTON ARTHUR

PUBLISHED BY
The Edward Buncombe Chapter of the Daughters of the
American Revolution, of Ashevllle, N. C.

RALEIGH. N. C.
Edwards & Bbotjqhtom Printing Compant
1814

Copyright, 1914
By E. H. D. Morrison

BIBLIOGRAPHY
The references are to the names of authors or works as follows:
Allen: means "A History of Haywood County," by W. C. Allen, Waynes-
ville, 1908.
Asheville's Centenary: means an article by that name which was pub
lished in the Asheville Citizen in February, 1898, by Foster A.
Sondley, Esq., of the Asheville Bar.
Balsam Groves: means "The Balsam Groves of the Grandfather Moun
tain," by Shep. M. Dugger of Banner Elk, Watauga county.
Byrd: means the "Writings of Col. Wm. Byrd of Westover," 1901.
Carolina Mountains, by Margaret W. Morley, 1913
Col. Rec: means Colonial and State Records of North Carolina.
Draper: means "Kings Mountain and Its Heroes," by Dr. L. C. Draper.
Dropped Stitches: means "Dropped Stitches in Tennessee History," by
Hon. John Allison, Nashville, 1896.
Dugger: means "The Balsam Groves" named above.
Fifth Eth. Rep.: means the Fifth Annual Report of the Bureau of
Ethnology, 1883-'84.
Foote's Sketches: means "Foote's Sketches of North Carolina."
Hart: means "Formation of the Union," by A. B. Hart, 1901.
Heart of the Alleghanies: means a work of that name by Zeigler & Gross-
cup, 1879.
Herndon: means "Abraham Lincoln," by W. H. Herndon and J. W.
Weik, 1892. Vol. I.
Kerr: means W. C. Kerr's Report of the Geological Survey of North
Carolina, 1875.
McClure: means "The Early Life of Abraham Lincoln," by Ida M.
Tarbell, 1896.
McGee: means "A History of Tennessee," by R. G. McGee, American
Book Company, 1900.
Nineteenth Eth. Rep.: means the Nineteenth Annual Report of the
Bureau of Ethnology, 1897.
Polk: means "North Carolina Hand-Book," by L. L. Polk, 1879,
Raleigh.
Ramsey: means "Annals of Tennessee," by Dr. J. G. Ramsey.
Roosevelt: means "The Winning of the West," by Theodore Roose
velt, 1905, Current Literature Publishing Company.
Tarbell: means "Life of Abraham Lincoln," by Ida M. Tarbell, Vol. I,
1900.
Thwaites: means "Daniel Boone," by Reuben Gold Thwaites.
Waddell: means the "Annals of Augusta County, Va., " by Joseph A.
Waddell, 1886, or the second volume, 1902.
Wheeler: means "Historical Sketches of North Carolina," by John H.
Wheeler, 1851.
Woman's Edition: means the "Woman's Edition of the Asheville Citi
zen," published by the women of Asheville, November 1895.
Zeigler & Grosscup: means "The Heart of the Alleghanies," by them, 1879.
(5)

CONTENTS Page
Chapter I — Introductory  7
Chapter II — Boundaries  18
Chapter III — Colonial Days  60
Chapter IV — Daniel Boone  79
Chapter V— Revolutionary Days  96
Chapter VI — The State of Franklin  113
Chapter VII — Grants and Litigation  131
Chapter VIII — County History  143
Chapter IX — Pioneer Preachers  215
Chapter X — Roads, Stage Coaches and Taverns  229
Chapter XI — Manners and Customs  248
Chapter XII — Extraordinary Events  292
Chapter XIII — Humorous and Romantic  327
Chapter XIV— Duels  356
Chapter XV — Bench and Bar  373
Chapter XVI — Notable Cases and Decisions  407
Chapter XVII — Schools and Colleges  420
Chapter XVIII — Newspapers  449
Chapter XIX — Swepson and Littlefleld  457
Chapter XX — Railroads  469
Chapter XXI — Notable Resorts and Improvements  491
Chapter XXII — Flora and Fauna  512
Chapter XXIII — Physical Peculiarities  528
Chapter XXIV — Mineralogy and Geology  542
Chapter XXV — Mines and Mining  552
Chapter XXVI — The Cherokees  566
Chapter XXVII — The Civil War Period  600
Chapter XXVIII — Political  628
Appendix  652
Index  659

WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
A HISTORY

CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTORY
Our Lordly Domain. Lying between the Blue Ridge on
the East and the Iron, Great Smoky and TJnaka mountains
on the West, is, in North Carolina, a lordly domain. It
varies in width from about forty miles at the Virginia line to
about seventy-five when it reaches Georgia on the Southerly
side. Running Northeast and Southwest it borders the State
of Tennessee on the West for about two hundred and thirty
miles, following the meanderings of the mountain tops, and
embraces approximately eight thousand square miles. No
where within that entire area is there a tract of level land
one thousand acres in extent; for the mountains are every
where, except in places where a limpid stream has, after ages
of erosion, eaten out of the hills a narrow valley. Between
the Grandfather on the east and the Roan on the west, the
distance in a straight line is less than twenty miles, while
from Melrose mountain, just west of Tryon, to the corner of
North Carolina, Georgia and Tennessee, is over one hundred
and fifty miles.
The Appalachians. According to the Smithsonian Insti
tution, the name Alleghany is from the language of the Dela- *^
ware Indians, and signifies a fine or navigable river. * It is
sometimes applied to the mountain ranges in the eastern part
of the United States, but the Appalachians, first applied by
De Soto to the whole system, is preferred by geographers. 2
The Grandfather Mountain. The Blue Ridge reaches
its culmination in this hoary pile, with its five-peaked crown
of archsean rocks, and nearly six thousand feet of elevation.
(7)

8 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Of this mountain the following lines were written in 1898:
TO THE GRANDFATHER MOUNTAIN. 3
Oldest of all terrestrial things — still holding
Thy wrinkled forehead high;
Whose every seam, earth's history enfolding,
Grim Science doth defy —
Teach me the lesson of the world-old story,
Deep in thy bosom hid;
Read me thy riddles that were old and hoary
Ere Sphinx and Pyramid!
Thou saw'st the birth of that abstraction
Which men have christened Time;
Thou saw'st the dead world wake to life and action
Far in thy early prime;
Thou caught'st the far faint ray from Sirius rising,
When through space first was hurled,
The primal gloom of ancient voids surprising,
This atom, called the World!
Gray was thy head ere Steam or Sail or Traffic
Had waked the soul of Gain,
Or reed or string had made the air seraphic
With Music's magic strain!
Thy cheek had kindled with the crimsoned blushes
Of myriad sunset dyes
Ere Adam's race began, or, from the rushes,
Came Moses, great and wise!
Thou saw'st the Flood, Mount Arrarat o'er-riding,
That bore of old the Ark;
Thou saw'st the Star, the Eastern Magi guiding
To manger, drear and dark.
Seething with heat, or glacial ices rending
Thy gaunt and crumbling form;
Riven by frosts and lightning-bolts — contending
In tempest and in storm —
Thou still protesteth 'gainst the day impending,
When, striving not in vain,
Science, at last, from thee thy riddles rending,
Shall make all secrets plain!
The Peculiarities of the Mountains. Until 1835 the
mountains of New Hampshire had been regarded as the
loftiest of the Alleghanies; but at that time the attention of
John C. Calhoun had been drawn to the numerous rivers
which come from all sides of the North Carolina mountains
and he shrewdly reasoned that between the parallels of 35° and
36° and 30', north latitude, would be found the highest pla-

INTRODUCTORY

teau and mountains of the Atlantic coast. The Blue Ridge
is a true divide, all streams flowing east and all flowing west
having their sources east or west of that divide. The Linville
river seems to be an exception to this rule, but its source is
in Linville gap, which is the true divide, the Boone fork of
the Watauga rising only a few hundred feet away flowing west
to the Mississippi. There are two springs at Blowing Rock
only a few feet apart, one of which flows into the Yadkin, and
thence into the Atlantic, while the other goes into the New,
and thence into the Gulf of Mexico; while the Saddle Moun
tain Baptist church in Alleghany county is built so exactly on
the line that a drop of rain falling on one side of the roof goes
into the Atlantic, while another drop, falling on the opposite
side ultimately gets into the Gulf.
When the Alleghanies Were Higher Than the Alps.
What is by some called The Portal is the depression between
the Grandfather on the East and the Roan mountain on the
West. When it is remembered that the Gulf of Mexico once
extended further north than Cairo, Illinois, and that both the
Ohio and the Mississippi once emptied into that inland sea
without having joined their waters, it will be easy to under
stand why these mountains must have been much higher than
at present, as most of their surface soil has for untold ages
been slowly carried westward to form the eastern half of the
valley of the Mississippi from Cairo to New Orleans. Thus,
the Watauga first finds its way westward, followed in the or
der named by the Doe, the Toe, the Cane, the French Broad,
the Pigeon, the Little Tennessee and last by the Hiwassee.
The most northerly section of this western rampart is called
the Stone mountains, and then follow the Iron, the Bald, the
Great Smoky, the Unaka, and last, the Frog mountains of
Georgia. The Blue Ridge, the transverse ranges and the
western mountains contain over a score of peaks higher than
Mount Washington, while the general level of the plateau
between the Blue Ridge and the mountains which divide
North Carolina from Tennessee is over two thousand feet
above sea level. Where most of these streams break through
the western barrier are veritable canons, sometimes so nar
row as to dispute the passage of wagon road, railroad and
river. For a quarter of a mile along the Toe, at Lost Cove,
the railroad is built on a concrete viaduct in the very bed of

10 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
the river itself. The mountains are wooded to their crests,
except where those crests are covered by grass, frequently
forming velvety mountain meadows. The scenery is often
grand and inspiring. It is always beautiful; and Cowper
sings: "Scenes must be beautiful that, daily seen,
Please daily, and whose novelty survives
Long knowledge and the scrutiny of years. "
The Aborigines. This region was, of course, inhabited
from time immemorial by the Indians. The Catawbas held
the country to the crest of the Blue Ridge. To the west of
that line, the Cherokees, a numerous and warlike tribe, held
sway to the Mississippi, though a renegade portion of that
tribe, known as the Chicamaugas, occupied the country around
what is now Chattanooga. 4 Old pottery, pipes, arrow- and
spear-heads are found at numerous places throughout these
mountains; and only a few years ago Mr. T. A. Low, a
lawyer of Banner Elk, Avery county, "picked up quite a num
ber of arrow-heads in his garden, some of which were splen
did specimens of Mocha stone, or moss agate, evidently brought
from Lake Superior regions, as no stones of the kind are found
in this part of the country."6 None of the towns of these
Indians appear " to have been in the valleys of the Swan-
nanoa and the North Carolina part of the French Broad."6
Parties roamed over the country. Since many of the arrow
heads are defective or unfinished, it would seem that they
were made where found, as it is unlikely that such unfinished
stones would be carried about the country. The inference is
that many and large parties roamed through these unsettled
regions. 7 Numbers of Indian mounds, stone hatchets, etc.,
are found in several localities, but nothing has been found in
these mounds except Indian relics of the common type. 8
Asheville on an Old Indian Battle-Ground? "There
is an old tradition that Asheville stands upon the site where,
years before the white man came, was fought a great battle,
between two tribes of aborigines, probably the Cherokees and
the Catawbas, who were inveterate enemies and always at
war. There is also a tradition that these lands were for a
long while neutral hunting grounds of these two tribes. " 9
Indian Names for French Broad. According to Dr. Ram
sey this stream was called Agiqua throughout its entire length •

INTRODUCTORY 11

but Zeigler & Grosscup tell us that it was known as the Agiqua
to the Over Mountain Cherokees [erati] only as far as the
lower valley; and to the Ottari or Valley Towns Indians, as
Tahkeeosteh from Asheville down; while above Asheville "it
took the name of Zillicoah." But they give no authority for
these statements.
Origin of the Name "French Broad." Mr. Sondley10
states that "as the settlement from the east advanced towards
the mountains, the Broad river was found and named; and
when the river, whose sources were on the opposite or western
side of the same mountains — which gave rise to the Broad
river [on the east] — became known, that ... its course tra
versed the lands then claimed by the French, and this new
found western stream was called the French Broad."
Origin of the Name "Swannanoa." The same writer
(Mr. Sondley), after considering the claims of those who think
Swannanoa means "beautiful", and of those who think it is
intended to imitate the wings of ravens when flying rapidly, is
of opinion that the name is but a corruption of Shawno, or
Shawnees, most of whom lived in Ohio territory, and he seems
to think that Savannah may also be a corruption of Shawno,
which tribe may have dwelt for a time on the Savannah river
in remote times. He then quotes Mr. James Mooney, "that
the correct name of the Swannanoa gap through the Blue
Ridge, east of Asheville, is Suwali Nunnahi, or Suwali trail,"
that being the pass through which ran the trail from the Cher
okee to the Suwali, or Ani-Suwali, living east of the moun
tains. He next quotes Lederer (p. 57) to the effect that the
Suwali were also called Sara, Sualty or Sasa, the interchange
of the I and r being common in Indian dialects.
The First White Men. It is difficult to say who were
the first white men who passed across the Blue Ridge. There
is no doubt, however, that there are excavations at several
places in these mountains which indicate that white men car
ried on mining operations in years long since passed. This
is suggested by excavations and immense trees now growing
from them, which when cut down show rings to the number
of several hundred. It is true that these excavations may
have been made by the Indians themselves, but it is also
possible that they may have been made by white men who
were wandering through the mountains in search of gold, sil-

12 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
ver or precious stones. Roosevelt (Vol. i, 173-4) says that
unnamed and unknown hunters and Indian traders had from
time to time pushed their way into the wilderness and had
been followed by others of whom we know little more than
their names. Dr. Thomas Walker of Virginia had found and
named Cumberland river, mountains and gap after the Duke
of Cumberland in 1750,. though he had been to the Cumber
land in 1748 (p. 175). John Sailing had been taken as a
captive by the Indians through Tennessee in 1730, and in
that year Adair traded with the Indians in what is now Ten
nessee. In 1756 and 1758 Forts Loudon and Chissel were
built on the headwaters of the Tennessee river, and in 1761
Wallen, a hunter, hunted near by . . . In 1766 James Smith
and others explored Tennessee, and a party from South Caro
lina were near the present site of Nashville in 1767.
De Soto. It is considered by some as most probable that
De Soto, on the great expedition in which he discovered the
Mississippi river, passed through Western North Carolina in
1540. x 1 In the course of their journey they are said to have
arrived at the head of the Broad or Pacolet river and from
there to have passed "through a country covered with fields
of maize of luxuriant growth, " and during the next five days
to have "traversed a chain of easy mountains, covered with
oak or mulberry trees, with intervening valleys, rich in pas
turage and irrigated by clear and rapid streams. These
mountains were twenty leagues across." They came at last
to "a grand and powerful river" and "a village at the end
of a long island, where pearl oysters were found." "Now, it
would be impossible for an army on the Broad or Pacolet
river, within one day's march of the mountains, to march
westward for six days, five of which were through mountains,
and reach the sources of the Tennessee or any other river,
without passing through Western North Carolina. " l 2 But
the Librarian of Congress says: "There appears to be no au
thority for the statement that this expedition [Hernando De
Soto's] entered the present limits of North Carolina. " 1 3 In
the same letter he says that Don Luis de Velasco, "as vice
roy of New Spain, sent out an expedition in 1559 under com
mand of Luna y Arellano to establish a colony in Florida.
One of the latter's lieutenant's appears to have led an expe
dition into northeastern Alabama in 1560." Also, that the

INTRODUCTORY 13

statement of Charles C. Jones, in his "Hernando De Soto"
(1880), that Luna's expedition penetrated into the Valley river
in Georgia and there mined for gold is questioned by Wood
bury Lowery in his "Spanish Settlements within the pres
ent limits of the United States" (New York, 1901, p. 367). 14
There are unmistakable evidences of gold-mining in Macon
and Cherokee counties which, apparently, was done 300 years
ago; but by whom cannot now be definitely determined. How
ever, there is no Valley river in Georgia, and the probability
is that the Valley river of Cherokee county, N. C, which is
very near the Georgia line, was at that time supposed to be
in the latter State.
The Roundheads of the South. Towards this primeval
wilderness three streams of white people began to converge as
early as 1730. * 6 They were Irish Presbyterians, Scotch Sax
ons, Scotch Celts, French Huguenots, Milesian Irish, Ger
mans, Hollanders and even Swedes. "The western border of
our country was then formed by the great barrier-chains of
the Alleghanies, which ran north and south from Pennsyl
vania through Maryland, Virginia and the Carolinas." Geor
gia was then too weak and small to contribute much to the
backwoods stock; the frontier was still in the low country.
It was difficult to cross the mountains from east to west, but
easy to follow the valleys between the ranges. By 1730 emi
grants were fairly swarming across the Atlantic, most of them
landing at Philadelphia, while a less number went to Charles
ton. Those who went to Philadelphia passed west to Fort
Pitt or started southwestward, towards the mountains of
North Carolina and Virginia. Their brethren pushed into the
interior from Charleston. These streams met in the foothills
on the east of the Blue Ridge and settled around Pittsburg
and the headwaters of the Great Kanawha, the Holston and
the Cumberland. Predominent among them were the Presby
terian Irish, whose preachers taught the creed of Knox and
Calvin. They were in the West what the Puritans were in
the Northeast, and more than the Cavaliers were in the South.
They formed the kernel of the American stock who were the
pioneers in the march westward. They were the Protestants
of the Protestants; they detested and despised the Catholics,
and regarded the Episcopalians with a more sullen, but scarce
ly less intense, hatred. They had as little kinship with the

14 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Cavalier as with the Quaker; they were separated by a wide
gulf from the aristocratic planter communities that flourished
in the tidewater regions of Virginia and the Carolinas. They
deemed it a religious duty to interpret their own Bible, and
held for a divine right the election of their own clergy. For
generations their whole ecclesiastic and scholastic systems had
been fundamentally democratic. The creed of the back
woodsman who had a creed at all was Presbyterianism; for
the Episcopacy of the tidewater lands obtained no foothold
in the mountains, and the Methodists and Baptists had but
just begun to appear in the West when the Revolution broke
out. Thus they became the outposts of civilization; the van
guard of the army of fighting settlers, who with axe and rifle
won their way from the Alleghanies to the Rio Grande and the
Pacific. "They have been rightly called the Roundheads of
the South, the same men who, before any others, declared for
American independence, as witness the Mecklenburg Declara
tion. "16 "They felt that they were thus dispossessing the
Canaanites, and were thus working the Lord's will in prepar
ing the land for a people which they believed was more truly
His chosen people than was that nation which Joshua led
across the Jordan. " 1 7
A New Englander's Estimate. In her "Carolina Moun
tains," (Houghton, Mifflin Co., 1913) Miss Margaret W.
Morley, of New England, but who has resided about a dozen
years in these mountains (Ch. 14) says that although North
Carolina was originally settled "from almost all the nations
of Europe," our mountain population, in "the course of time,
became homogenious" ; that many had come to "found a fam
ily," and "formed the 'quality' of the mountains"; while
others, " at different times drifted in from the eastern lowlands
as well as down from the North. " Indeed, the early records
of Ashe county, show many a name which has since become
famous in New York, Ohio and New England — such as Day,
Choate, Dana, Cornell, Storie and Vanderpool. Continuing,
Miss Morley says (p. 140) : "Most of the writers tell us
rather loosely that the Southern mountains were originally
peopled with refuges of one sort and another, among whom
were criminals exported to the New World from England
which, they might as well add, was the case with the whole
of the newly discovered continent, America being then the

INTRODUCTORY 15

open door of refuge for the world's oppressed . . . but
we can find no evidence that these malefactors, many of
them 'indentured servants', sent over for the use of the colo
nists, made a practice of coming to the mountains when their
term of servitude expired. . . . The truth is, the same
people who occupied Virginia and the eastern part of the
Carolinas, peopled the western mountains, English predomi
nating, and in course of time there drifted down from Vir
ginia large numbers of Scotch-Irish, who, after the events of
1730, fled in such numbers to the New World, and good
Scotch Highlanders, who came after 1745. In fact, so many
of these staunch Northerners came to the North Carolina
mountains that they have given the dominant note to the
character of the mountaineers, remembering which may help
the puzzled stranger to understand the peculiarities of the
people he finds here today. . . . The rapid growth of
slavery, no doubt, discouraged many, who, unable to suc
ceed in the Slave-States, were crowded to the mountains, or
else became the "Poor White" of the South, who must not
be for a moment confounded with the "Mountain White,"
the latter having brought some of the best blood of his na
tion to these blue heights. He brought into the mountains
and there nourished, the stern virtues of his race, including
the strictest honesty, an old-fashioned self-respect, and an
old-fashioned speech, all of which he yet retains, as well as
a certain pride, which causes him to flare up instantly at any
suspicion of being treated with condescension. . . . " She
gives the names of Hampton, Rogers, McClure, Morgan,
Rhodes, Foster and Bradley as indicative of the English,
Scotch and Irish descent of our people — names that "are
crowned with honor out in the big world." It is also a well-
known fact that Andrew Jackson, Abraham Lincoln, Admiral
Farragut and Cyrus T. McCormick came from the same
stock of people. She adds, very justly : "Bad blood there
was among them, as well as good, and brave men as well as
weak ones. The brave as well as the bad blood sometimes
worked out its destiny in Vendetta and "moonshining," al
though there never existed in the North Carolina mountains
the extensive and bloody feuds that distinguish the annals of
Virginia and Kentucky." (P. 144).

16 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
The Moonshiner, she declares, (p. 201) is "a product of
conditions resulting from the Civil War, before which time
the moutnaineer converted his grain into whiskey, just as
the New Englander converted his apples into cider. The act
of distilling was not a crime, and became so only because it
was an evasion of the revenue laws. ... At the begin
ning of the Civil War for the sake of revenue a very heavy
tax was placed on all distilled alcoholic liquors. After the
war was over the tax was not removed, and this is the griev
ance of the mountaineer, who says that the tax should have
been removed; that it is unjust and oppressive, and that he
has a right to do as he pleases with his own corn, and to
evade the law which interferes with his personal freedom."
But, she adds : "Within the past few years the moonshiner,
along with many time-honored customs, has been rapidly van
ishing. An Appreciation. Such just, truthful, generous and sym
pathetic words as the above, especially when found eminat-
ing from a New Englander, will be highly appreciated by
every resident of the Carolina mountains, as we are accus
tomed to little else than misrepresentations and abuse by
many of the writers from Miss Morley's former home. Her
descriptions of our flowers, our gems, our manners and cus
toms, our scenery, our climate and the character of our peo
ple will win for her a warm place in the affections of all our
people. "The Carolina Mountains" is by far the best book
that has ever been written about our section and our people.
The few lapses into which she has been betrayed by incorrect
information will be gladly overlooked in view of the fact that
she has been so just, so kind and so truthful in the estimate
she has placed upon our virtues and our section.
Poor Comfort. Very little comfort is to be derived from
the fact that some writers claim ("The Child That Toileth
Not," p. 13) that a spirit of fun or a "great sense of humor"
among the mountain people induces them to mislead strang
ers who profess to believe that in some sections of the moun
tains our people have never even heard of Santa Claus or Jesus
Christ; by pretending that they do not themselves know any
thing of either. Indeed, a story comes from Aquone to the
effect that a stranger from New England who was there to
fish in the Nantahala river once told his guide, a noted wag,

INTRODUCTORY 17

that he had heard that some of the mountain people had not
heard of God or Jesus Christ. Pretending to think that the
visitor was referring to a man, the guide asked if his ques
tioner did not mean Mike Crise, a timber-jack who had
worked on that river a dozen years before, and when the
stranger replied that he meant Jesus of Bethlehem, the wag,
with a perfectly straight face, answered : "That's the very
p'int Mike came from" — meaning Bethlehem, Pa. There
fore, when we read in "The Carolina Mountains (p. 117)
that "The mountaineer, it may be said in passing, sells his
molasses by the bushel," and (p. 220) that "Under the Smoky
mountain we heard of a sect of 'Barkers,' who, the people
said, in their religious frenzy, run and bark up a tree in the
belief that Christ is there, " we are driven to the conclusion
that Miss Morley, the author, was a victim of this same irre
sistible "sense of humor." notes.
^Letter of R. D. W. Connor, Secretary N. C. Hist. Com., January 31, 1912.
2Zeigler & Grosscup, p_. 9.
3This mountain is said to be among the oldest geological formations on earth, the
Laurentian only being senior to it.
'Roosevelt, Vol. Ill, 111-112.
BT. A. Low, Esq.
6Asheville Centenary.
'Ibid."Ibid.'Ibid. i°Ibid. "Zeigler & Grosscup, p. 222.
12Asheville Centenary.
"His letter to J. P. A., 1912.
i*Ibid
"Roosevelt, Vol. I. p. 137. This entire chapter (ch. 5, Vol. I), from which the follow
ing excerpts have been taken at random, contains the finest tribute in the language to
the pioneers of the South.
"Ibid., 214.
"Ibid.

W. N. C.  2

CHAPTER II
BOUNDARIES
A Digression. The purpose of this history is to relate
facts concerning that part of North Carolina which lies be
tween the Blue Ridge and the Tennessee line; but as there
has never been any connected account of the boundary lines
between North Carolina and its adjoining sisters, a digression
from the main purpose in order to tell that story should be
pardoned. Unfounded Traditions. It is said that the reason the
Ducktown copper mines of Tennessee were lost to North Car
olina was due to the fact that the commissioners of North
Carolina and Tennessee ran out of spirituous liquors when
they reached the high peak just north of the Hiwassee river,
and instead of continuing the line in a general southwest-
wardly course, crossing the tops of the Big and Little Frog
mountains, they struck due south to the Georgia line and a
still-house. The same story is told as to the location of Ashe
ville, the old Steam Saw Mill place on the Buncombe Turn
pike about three miles south of Asheville, at Dr. Hardy's
former residence, being its chief rival; but when it is recalled
that two Indian trails crossed at Asheville, and the legislature
had selected a man from Burke as an umpire of the dispute, it
will be found that grave doubts may arise as to the truth of
the whiskey tradition. 1 It was the jagged boundary between
North and South Carolina and the stories attributing the
same to the influence of whiskey that called forth the fol
lowing just and sober reflections :
Abstemious or Capable in Strong Drink? Hon. W. L.
Saunders, who edited the Colonial Records, remarks in Vol.
v, p. xxxviii, that "there is usually a substantial, sensible,
sober reason for any marked variation from the general direc
tion of an important boundary line, plain enough when the
facts are known; but the habit of the country is to attribute
such variations to a supposed superior capacity of the com
missioners and surveyors on the other side for resisting the
power of strong drink. Upon this theory, judging from prac-
(18)

BOUNDARIES 19

tical results, North Carolina in her boundary surveys, and
they have been many, seems to have been unusually fortunate
in having men who were either abstemious or very capable in
the matter of strong drink; for, so far as now appears, in no
instance have we been overreached. " 2
A Sanctuary for Criminals. Prior to the settlement of
these boundary disputes grants had been issued by each col
ony to lands in the territory in controversy; which, according
to Governor Dobbs, "was the creation of a kind of sanctuary
allowed to criminals and vagabonds by their pretending, as it
served their purpose, that they belonged to either province." 3
"But," adds Mr. W. L. Saunders, "who can help a feeling of
sympathy for those reckless free-lances to whom constraint
from either province was irksome? After men breathe North
Carolina air for a time, a very little government will go a
long way with them. Certainly the men who publicly 'damned
the King and his peace' in 1762 were fast ripening for the
20th of May, 1775."*
The First Grant of Carolina. Charles the Second's
grant of Carolina in 1584 embraced only the land between
the mouth of the St. Johns river in Florida to a line just north
of Albemarle Sound; but he had intended to give all land
south of the settlements in Virginia. This left a strip of land
between the Province of Carolina and the Virginia settle
ments. 6 In 1665 the King added a narrow strip of land to
those already granted. This strip lay just north of Albe
marle Sound, and its northern boundary would of course be
the boundary line between Carolina and Virginia. It was
about fifteen miles wide, and had on it "hundreds of fam
ilies, " which neither colony wished to lose. 6
The First Survey. In 1709, both colonies appointed
commissioners to settle this boundary. North Carolina
appointed Moseley and John Lawson; but Lawson left his
deputy, Colonel Wm. Maule, to act for him. 7 In 1710 these
commissioners met Philip Ludwell and Nathaniel Harrison,
commissioners from Virginia, but our commissioners insisted
that the surveying instruments used by the Virginians were
not to be trusted, and the meeting broke up without having
accomplished anything except the charge from the Virginians
that Moseley did not want the line run because he was trad
ing in disputed lands. 8 When the commissioners from these

20 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
two colonies did meet in March 1728, it was found that our
commissioners had been right in 1710 as to the inaccuracy of
the Virginia instruments, and the Virginians frankly admit
ted it. 9
North Carolina and Virginia Boundary. x ° On the
27th of February, 1728, William Byrd, Will Dandridge, and
Richard FitzwiUiam, as commissioners from Virginia, met
Edward Moseley, C. Gale, Will Little and J. Lovick, as com
missioners from North Carolina, at Corotuck Inlet, and began
the survey on the 27th day of March, and continued it till the
weather got "warm enough to give life and vigor to the rat
tlesnakes" in the beginning of April, when they stopped till
September 20, when the survey was renewed; and after going
a certain distance beyond their own inhabitants the North
Carolina commissioners refused to proceed further, and pro
tested against the Virginia commissioners proceeding further
with it.11 In this they were joined by FitzwiUiam of Vir
ginia. This protest was in writing and was delivered October
6, when they had proceeded 170 miles to the southern branch
of the Roanoke river "and near 50 miles without inhabitants, "
which they thought would be far enough for a long time. To
this the two remaining Virginia commissioners, Byrd and Dan
dridge, sent a written answer, to the effect that their order was
to run the line "as far towards the mountains as they could;
they thought they should go as far as possible so that "His
Majesty's subjects may as soon as possible extend themselves
to that natural barrier, as they are certain to do in a few
years;" and thought it strange that the North Carolina com
missioners should stop "within two or three days after Mr.
Mayo had entered with them near 2,000 acres within five
miles of the place where they left off."
Byrd and Dandridge Continue Alone. The North
Carolina commissioners, accompanied by FitzwiUiam of Vir
ginia, left on October 8th; but Byrd and Dandridge continued
alone, crossing Matrimony creek, "so called from being a lit
tle noisy, " and saw a little mountain five miles to the north
west "which we named the Wart. " 1 2
On the 25th of October they came in plain sight of the moun
tains, and on the 26th, they reached a rivulet which "the
traders say is a branch of the Cape Fear. " Here they stop
ped. This was Peters creek in what is now Stokes county. x 3

BOUNDARIES 21

It was on this trip that Mr. Byrd discovered extraordinary
virtues in bear meat. This point 1 4 was on the northern bound
ary of that part of old Surry which is now Stokes county.
The "Break" in the Line Accounted for. A glance
at the map will show a break in the line between Virginia and
North Carolina where it crosses the Chowan river. This is
thus accounted for:16 Governors Eden of North Carolina and
Spottswood of Virginia met at Nansemond and agreed to set
the compass on the north shore of Currituck river or inlet and
run due west; and if it "cutt [sic] Chowan river between the
mouths of Nottoway and Wiccons creeks, it shall continue on
the same course towards the mountains; but it it "cutts
Chowan river to the southward of Wiccons creek, it shall con
tinue up the middle of Chowan river to the mouth of Wiccons
creek, and from thence run due west." It did this; and the
survey of 1728 was not an attempt to ascertain and mark the
parallel of 36° 30', but "an attempt to run a line between cer
tain natural objects . . . regardless of that line and agreed
upon as a compromise by the governors of the two States." 1 6
The Real Milk in the Cocoanut. Thus, so far as the
Colonial Records show, ended the first survey of the dividing
line between this State and Virginia, which one of the Virginia
commissioners has immortalized by his matchless account, which,
however, was not given to the world until 1901, when it was most
attractively published by Doubleday, Page & Co., after careful
editing by John Spencer Bassett. But Col. Byrd does not
content himself in his "Writings" with the insinuation that
the North Carolina commissioners and Mr. Mayo had lost
interest immediately after having entered 2,000 acres of land
within five miles of the end of their survey. He goes further
and charges (p. 126) that, including Mr. FitzwiUiam, one
of the Virginia commissioners, "they had stuck by us as long
as our good liquor lasted, and were so kind to us as to drink
our good Journey to the Mountains in the last Bottle we had
left!" He also insinuates that FitzwiUiam left because he
was also a judge of the Williamsburg, Virginia, court, and
hoped to draw double pay while Byrd and Dandridge con
tinued to run the line after his return. But in this he exult
antly records the fact that FitzwiUiam utterly failed.
The Ninety-Mile Extension in 1749. In October, 1749,
the line between North Carolina and Virginia was extended

22 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
from Peters creek, where it had ended in 1728 — which point
is now in Stokes county — ninety miles to the westward to
Steep Rock creek, crossing "a large branch of the Mississippi
[New River], which runs between the ledges of the moun
tains" — as Governor Johnston remarked — "and nobody ever
drempt of before." William Churton and Daniel Weldon
were the commissioners on the part of North Carolina, and
Joshua Fry and Peter Jefferson on the part of Virginia. "It
so happens, however, that no record of this survey has been
preserved, and we are today without evidence, save from
tradition, to ascertain the location of our boundary for ninety
miles." 17
This extension carried the line to within about two miles
east of the Holston river; and we know from the statute of
1779 providing for its further extension from that point upon
the latitude of 36° 30' that it had been run considerably south
of that latitude from Peters creek to Pond mountain, from
which point it had, apparently without rhyme or reason, been
run in a northeastwardly direction to the top of White Top
mountain, 1 8 about three miles north of its former course,
and from there carried to Steep Rock creek, near the Holston
river, in a due west course. The proverbial still-house, said
to have been on White Top, is also said to have caused this
aberration; but the probability is that the commissioners had
a more substantial reason than that.
The Last Extension of This Line. In 1779 North Caro
lina passed an act19 reciting that as "the inhabitants of this
State and of the Commonwealth of Virginia have settled them
selves further westwardly than the boundary between the two
States hath hitherto been extended, it becomes expedient in
order to prevent disputes among such settlers that the same
should be now further extended and marked. " To that end
Orandates — improperly spelled in the Revised Statutes of 1837,
Vol. ii, p. 82, "Oroondates" — Davie, John Williams Caswell,
JamesKerr,WilliamBailey Smith and Richard Henderson should
be the commissioners on the part of North Carolina to meet
similar commissioners from Virginia to still further extend it.
But it was expressly provided that they should begin where
the commissioners of 1749 had left off, and first ascertain if
it be in latitude 36° 30', "and if it be found to be truly in"
that latitude, then they were "to run from thence due west

BOUNDARIES 23

to the Tennessee or the Ohio river; or if it be found not truly
in that latitude, then to run from said place, due north or due
south, into the said latitude, and thence due west to the said
Tennessee or Ohio river, correcting the said course at due
intervals by astronomical observations."20 Colonial Records.
Vol. iv, p. 13.)
The Line Run in 1780. Richard Henderson was appoint
ed on the part of North Carolina, and Dr. Thomas Walker
on that of Virginia, to run this line, and they began their task
in the spring of 1780; and on the last day of March of that
year Col. Richard Henderson met the Donelson party on its
way from the Watauga settlements to settle at the French
Lick, in the bend of the Cumberland. (Roosevelt, Vol. iii,
p. 242.) But nine years before, in 1771, Anthony Bledsoe,
one of the new-comers to the Watauga settlement, being a
practical surveyor, and not being certain that that settlement
was wholly within the borders of Virginia, extended the line
of 1749 from its end near the Holston river far enough to the
west to satisfy himself that the new settlement on the Watauga
was in North Carolina. 2 x
Disputed Carolina Boundary Lines. From the Prefa
tory Notes to Volume V, Colonial Records, p. 35, etc., it
appears that the dispute between the two Carolinas as to
boundary lines began in 1720 "when the purpose to erect a
third Province in Carolina, 2 2 with Savannah for its northern
boundary," began to assume definite shape, but nothing was
done till January 8, 1829-30, when a line was agreed on "to
begin 30 miles southwest of the Cape Fear river, and to be
run at that parallel distance the whole course of said river;"
and in the following June Governor Johnson of South Caro
lina recommended that it run from a point 30 miles south
west of the source of the Cape Fear, shall be continued "due
west as far as the South Sea," unless the "Waccamaw river
lyes [sic] within 30 miles of the Cape Fear river," in which
case that river should be the boundary. This was accepted
by North Carolina until it was discovered that the "Cape
Fear rose very close to the Virginia border,"23 and would
not have "permitted any extension on the part of North Caro
lina to the westward." Meanwhile, both provinces claimed
land on the north side of the Waccamaw river."24 In 1732
Gov. Burrington [of North Carolina] published a proclama-

24 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
tion in Timothy's Southern Gazette, declaring the lands lying
on the north side of the Waccamaw river to be within the
Province of North Carolina, to which Gov. Johnson [of South
Carolina] replied by a similar proclamation claiming the same
land to belong to South Carolina; and also claiming that when
they [the two governors] had met before the Board of Trade
in London to settle this matter in 1829-30, Barrington had
"insisted that the Waccamaw should be the boundary from
its mouth to its head," while South Carolina had contended
that "the line should run 30 miles distant from the mouth of
the Cape Fear river on the southwest side thereof, as set forth
in the instructions, and that the Board had agreed thereto,
unless the mouth of the Waccamaw river was within 30 miles
of the Cape Fear river; in which case both Governor Barring-
ton and himself had agreed that the Waccamaw river should
be the boundary." The omission of the word "mouth" in
the last part of the instructions Governor Johnson thought
"only a mistake in wording it. " 2 5
The Line Partially Run in 1735. In consequence of
this dispute commissioners were appointed by both colonies,
who were to meet on the 23d of April, 1735, and run a due
west line from the Cape Fear along the sea coast for thirty
miles, and from thence proceed northwest to the 35th degree
north latitude, and if the line touched the Pee Dee river be
fore reaching the 35th degree, then they were to make an
offset at five miles distant from the Pee Dee and proceed up
that river till they reached that latitude; and from thence
they were to proceed due west until they came to Catawba
town; but if the town should be to the northward of the line,
"they were to make an offset around the town so as to leave
it in the South government." They began to run the line
in "May, 1735, and proceeded thirty miles west from Cape
Fear . . . and then went northwest to the country road and
set up stakes there for the mearing26 or boundary of the
two provinces, when they separated, agreeing to return on the
18th of the following September. " In September the line was
run northwest about 70 miles, the South Carolina commis
sioners not arriving till October. These followed the line run
by the North Carolina commissioners about 40 miles and
finding it correct, refused to run it further because they had
not been paid for their services. A deputy surveyor, how-

BOUNDARIES 25

ever, took the latitude of the Pee Dee at the 35th parallel
and set up a mark, which was from that date deemed to be
the mearing or boundary at that place.
Line Extended in 1737 and in 1764. In 1737 the line
was extended in the same direction 22 miles to a stake in a
meadow supposed to be at the point of intersection with the
35th parallel of north latitude.27 In 1764 the line was ex
tended from the stake due west 62 miles, intersecting the
Charleston road from Salisbury, near Waxhaw creek28 at a
distance of 61 miles.
The "Line of 1772." In 1772, after making the required
offsets so as to leave the Catawba Indians in South Carolina
in pursuance of the agreement of 1735, the line was "ex
tended in a due west course from the confluence of the north
and south forks of the Catawba river to Tryon mountain."
But North Carolina refused to agree to this line, insisting
that "the parallel of 35° of north latitude having been made
the boundary by the agreement of 1735, it could not be changed
without their consent. . . . The reasons that controlled the
commissioners in recommending this course . . . were that
the observations of their own astronomer, President Cald
well of the University, showed there was a palpable error in
running the line from the Pee Dee to the Salisbury road,
that line not being upon the 35th parallel, but some 12 miles
to the South of it, and that "the line of 1772" was just about
far enough north of the 35th parallel to rectify the error, by
allowing South Carolina to gain on the west of the Catawba
river substantially what she had lost through misapprehen
sion on the east of it." North Carolina in 1813 "agreed that
the line of 1772" should be recognized as a part of the bound
ary. 29 "The zig-zag shape of the line as it runs from the
southwest corner of Union county to the Catawba river is
due to the offsets already referred to, and which were neces
sary to throw the reservation of Catawba Indians into the
Province of South Carolina. "
Northern and Southern Boundaries. The peace of
1783 with Great Britain did nothing more to secure our west
ern limits than to confirm us in the control of the territory
already in our possession; for while the Great Lakes were rec
ognized as our northern boundary, Great Britain failed to
formally admit that boundary till the ratification of the Jay

26 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
treaty, on the ground that we had failed to fulfill certain
promises; and while she had likewise consented to recognize
the 31st parallel as our southern boundary, it had been secretly
agreed between America and Great Britain that, if she recov
ered West Florida from Spain, the boundary should run a
hundred miles further north than the 31st parallel. For this
land, drained by the Gulf rivers, had not been England's to
grant, as it had been conquered and was then held by Spain.
Nor was it actually given up to us until it was acquired by
Pinckney's masterly diplomacy. (Roosevelt, Vol. iii, p.
283 et seq.)
France's Duplicity. The reasons for these reservations
were that while France had been our ally in the Revolution
ary war, Spain was also the ally of France both before and
after the close of that conflict; and our commissioners had
been instructed by Congress to "take no steps without the
knowledge and advice of France." It was now the interest
of France to act in the interest of Spain more than in that of
America for two reasons, the first of which was that she wished
to keep Gibralter, and the second, that she wished to keep us
dependent on her as long as she could. Spain, however, was
quite as hostile to us as England had been, and predicted the
future expansion of the United States at the expense of Flor
ida, Louisiana and Mexico. Therefore, she tried to hem in our
growth by giving us the Alleghanies as our western boundary.
The French court, therefore, proposed that we should content
ourselves with so much of the trans-AUeghany territory as
lay around the head waters of the Tennessee and between the
Cumberland and Ohio, all of which was already settled; "and
the proposal showed how important the French court deemed
the fact of actual settlement. " But John Jay, supported by
Adams, disregarded the instructions of Congress and negotiated
a separate treaty as to boundaries, and gave us the Missis
sippi as our western boundary, but leaving to England the free
navigation of the Mississippi. 2 (Roosevelt, Vol. iii, p. 284.)
Inchoate Rights Only Under Colonial Charters.
"In settling the claims to the western territory, much stress
was laid on the old colonial charters; but underneath all the
verbiage it was practically admitted that these charters con
ferred merely inchoate rights, which became complete only
after conquest and settlement. The States themselves had

BOUNDARIES 27

already by their actions shown that they admitted this to be
the case. Thus, North Carolina, when by the creation of
Washington county — now the State of Tennessee, — she rounded
out her boundaries, specified them as running to the Mis
sissippi. As a matter of fact the royal grant, under which
alone she could claim the land in question, extended to the
Pacific; and the only difference between her rights to the
regions east and west of the river was that her people were
settling in one, and could not settle in the other. " (Roosevelt,
Vol. iii, p. 285.)
Western Lands an Obstacle. One of the chief objec
tions to the adoption of the Articles of Confederation, which
Congress formulated and submitted to the States November
15, 1777, by some of the States was that each State had con
sidered that upon the Declaration of Independence it was pos
sessed of all the British lands which at any time had been in
cluded within its boundary; and Virginia, having in 1778, cap
tured a few British forts northwest of the Ohio, created out of
that territory the "County of Illinois," and treated it as her
property. Other States, having small claims to western ter
ritory, insisted that, as the western territory had been secured
by a war in which all the States had joined, all those lands
should be reserved to reward the soldiers of the Continental
army and to secure the debt of the United States. Maryland,
whose boundaries could not be construed to include much of
the western land, refused to ratify the articles unless the claim
of Virginia should be disallowed. It was proposed by Vir
ginia and Connecticut to close the union or confederacy with
out Maryland, and Virginia even opened a land office for the
sale of her western lands; but without effect on Maryland. At
this juncture, New York, which had less to gain from western
territory than the other claimants, ceded her claims to the
United States; and Virginia on January 2, 1781, agreed to
do likewise. Thereupon Maryland ratified the articles, and
on March 1, 1781, the Articles of Confederation were duly put
into force. From that date Congress was acting under a
written charter or constitution. (Hart, Sec. 45.)
Cession of Western Territory. When, at the close of
the Revolution, it became necessary that Congress take steps
to carry out the pledge it had given (October 10, 1780) to see
that such western lands should be disposed of for the common

28 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
benefit, and formed into distinct republican States under the
Union, it urged the States to cede their western territory to it
to be devoted to the payment of the soldiers and the payment
of the national debt. The northern tier of States soon after
wards ceded their territory, with certain reservations; but
the process of cession went on more slowly and less satisfac
torily in the southern States. Virginia retained both juris
diction and land in Kentucky, while North Carolina, in 1790,
granted "jurisdiction over what is now Tennessee," but every
acre of land had already been granted by the State. (Hart,
Sec. 52). This, however, is not strictly true, much Tennessee
land not having been granted then.
The Carolinas Agree to Extend "The Line of 1772."
In 1803 the Legislature of North Carolina passed an act (Rev.
Stat. 1837, Vol. II, p. 82) for the appointment of three com
missioners to meet other commissioners from South Carolina,
to fix and establish permanently the boundary line between
these two States "as far as the eastern boundary of the terri
tory ceded by the State of North Carolina to the United
States. This act was amended in 1804, giving "the governor
for the time being and his successor full power and authoriy
to enter into any compact or agreement that he may deem
most advisable " with the South Carolina and Georgia authori
ties for the settlement of the "boundary lines between these
States and North Carolina." But this act seems only to have
caused confusion and necessitated the passage of another act
in 1806 declaring that the act of 1804 should "not be con
strued to extend or have any relation to the State of Georgia. "
(Rev. Stat. 1837, p. 84.)
Commissioners Meet in Columbia in 1808. 30 Commis
sioners of the States of North and South Carolina, however,
met in Columbia, S. C, on the 11th of July, 1808, and among
other things agreed to extend the line between the two States
from the end of the line which had been run in 1772 "a direct
course to that point in the ridge of mountains which divides
the eastern from the western waters where the 35° of North
latitude shall be found to strike it nearest the termination of
said line of 1772, thence along the top of said ridge to the
western extremity of the State of South Carolina. It being
understood that the said State of South Carolina does not
mean by this arrangement to interfere with claims which the

BOUNDARIES 29

United States, or those holding under the act of cession to the
United States, may have to lands which may lie, if any there
be, between the top of the said ridge and the said 35° of north
latitude." Agreement of September, 1813. 31 But, although the
commissioners from the two States met at the designated
point on the 20th of July, 1813, they found that they could
not agree as to the "practicability of fixing a boundary line
according to the agreement of 1808," and entered into an
other agreement "at McKinney's, on Toxaway river, on the
fourth day of September, 1813, " by which they recommended
that their respective States agree that the commissioners
should start at the termination of the line of 1772 "and rim a
line due west to the ridge dividing the waters of the north
fork of the Pacolet river from the waters of the north fork of
Saluda river; thence along the said ridge to the ridge that
divides the Saluda waters from those of Green river; thence
along the said ridge to where the same joins the main ridge
which divides the eastern from the western waters, and thence
along the said ridge to that part of it which is intersected by
the Cherokee boundary line run in the year 1797; from the
center of the said ridge at the point of intersection the line
shall extend in a direct course to the eastern bank of Chatooga
river, where the 35° of north latitude has been found to strike
it, and where a rock has been marked by the aforesaid com
missioners with the following inscription, viz.: lat. 35°, 1813.
It being understood and agreed that the said lines shall be so
run as to leave all the waters of Saluda river within the State
of South Carolina; but shall in no part run north of a course
due west from the termination of the line of 1772." The
commissioners who made the foregoing agreement were, on
the part of North Carolina, John Steele, Montfort Stokes, and
Robert Burton, and on the part of South Carolina Joseph
Blythe, Henry Middleton, and John Blasingame. Rev. Stat.
1837, Vol. ii, p. 86).
Commissioners Appointed in 1814. Pursuant to the above
provisional articles of agreement North Carolina in 1814 ap
pointed General Thomas Love, General Montfort Stokes and
Col. John Patton commissioners to meet other commission
ers from South Carolina to run and mark the boundary line
between the two States in accordance with the recommenda-

30 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
tion of the commissioners who had met and agreed, "at Mc
Kinney's, on Toxaway river, on the 4th of September, 1813."
(Rev. Stat. 1837, Vol. ii, p. 87).
Around Head Springs of Saluda River. 3 2 But these
commissioners met and found, "by observations and actual
experiments that a course due west from the termination of
the line of 1772 would not strike the point of the ridge divid
ing the waters of the north fork of Pacolet river from the
waters of the north fork of Saluda river in the manner con
templated, . . . and finding also that running a line on top of
the said ridge so as to leave all the waters of Saluda river
within the State of South Carolina would (in one place) run
a little north of a course due west from the termination of the
said line of 1772," agreed to run and mark a line "on the ridge
around the head springs of the north fork of Saluda river,"
and recommended that such line be accepted by the two
States. Termination of 1772 Line Starting Point of 1815 Line.
Therefore the Legislature of North Carolina passed an act
(Rev. Stat. 1837, Vol. ii, p. 89) fixing this line as "beginning
on a stone set up at the termination of the line of 1772" and
marked "N. C. and S. C. September fifteenth, eighteen hun
dred and fifteen, " running thence west four miles and ninety
poles to a stone marked N. C. and S. C, thence south 25°
west 118 poles to the top of the ridge dividing the waters of the
north fork of the Pacolet river from the north fork of the
Saluda river . . . thence to the ridge that divides the Saluda
waters from those of Green river and thence along that ridge
to its junction with the Blue Ridge, and thence along the
Blue Ridge to the line surveyed in 1797, where a stone is set
up marked N. C. and S. C. 1813; and from this stone "a direct
line south 6834° west 20 miles and 11 poles to the 35° of north
latitude at the rock in the east bank of the Chatooga river,
marked latitude 35 AD: 1813, in all a distance of 74 miles
and 189 poles."
Confirmation of Boundary Lines. In 1807 the North
Carolina Legislature passed an act (Rev. Stat. 1837, Vol. ii, p. 90)
which "fully ratified and confirmed" these two agreements,
and another act (Rev. Stat. Vol. ii, p. 92) reciting that these
two sets of commissioners "in conformity with these articles
of agreement" had "run and marked in part the boundary

BOUNDARIES 31

line between the said States." This act further recites that
the North Carolina commissioners "have reported the run
ning and marking of said boundary line as follows:
"To commence at Ellicott's rock,33 and run due west on the 35° of
north latitude, and marked as follows: The trees on each side of the line
with three chops, the fore and aft trees with a blaze on the east and west
side, the mile trees with the number of miles from Ellicott's rock, on the
east side of the tree, and a cross on the east and west side; whereupon the
line was commenced under the superintendance of the undersigned com
missioners jointly: Timothy Tyrrell, Esquire, surveyor on the part of
the commissioners of the State of Georgia, and Robert Love, surveyor
on the part of the commissioners of the State of North Carolina — upon
which latitude the undersigned caused the line to be extended just thirty
miles due west, marking and measuring as above described, in a conspic
uous manner throughout; in addition thereto they caused at the end of
the first eleven miles after first crossing the Blue Ridge, a rock to be set
up, descriptive of the line, engraved thereon upon the north side, Sep
tember 25, 1819, N. C, and upon the south side 35 degree N. L. G.; then
after crossing the river Cowee or Tennessee, at the end of sixteen miles,
near the road, running up and down the said river, a locust post marked
thus, on the South side Ga. October 14, 1819; and on the north side, 35
degree N. L. N. C., and then at the end of twenty-one miles and three
quarters, the second crossing of the Blue Ridge, a rock engraved on the
North side 35 degree N. L. N. C., and on the south side Ga. 12th Oct.,
1819; then on the rock at the end of the thirty miles, engraved thereon,
upon the north side N. C. N.. L. 35 degrees, which stands on the north side
of a mountain, the waters of which fall into Shooting Creek, a branch of the
Hiwassee, due north of the eastern point of the boundary line, between
the States of Georgia and Tennessee, commonly called Montgomery's
line, just six hundred and sixty-one yards. "
The Legislature then enacted "That the said boundary
line, as described in the said report, be, and the same is hereby
fully established, ratified and confirmed forever, as the bound
ary line between the States of North Carolina and Georgia."
The last section of the act confirming the survey of the line
from the Big Pigeon to the Georgia line, as run and marked
by the commissioners of North Carolina and Tennessee in
1821, (Rev. Stat. 1837, Vol. ii, p. 97) provides "that a line run
and known by the name of Montgomery's line, beginning
six hundred and sixty-one yards due south of the termination
of the line run by the commissioners on the part of this State
and the State of Georgia, in the year one thousand eight hun
dred and nineteen, ending on a creek near the waters of Shoot
ing Creek, waters of Hiwassee, then along Montgomery's

32 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
line till it strikes the line run by commissioners on the part
of North Carolina and Tennessee in 1821, to a square post
marked on the east side N. C. 1821, and on the west side
Tenn. 1821, and on the south side G. should to be the divid
ing line between North Carolina and Georgia, so soon as the
above line shall be ratified on the part of the State of
Georgia." ORIGIN OF THE WALTON WAR.
"North Carolina claimed for her southern boundary the 35th degree
of north latitude. The line of this parallel, however, was at that time
supposed to run about twelve miles north of what was subsequently
ascertained to be its true location. Between this supposed line of 35°
north latitude and the northernmost boundary of Georgia, as settled
upon by a convention between that State and South Carolina in 1787,
there intervened a tract of country of about twelve miles in width, from
north to south, and extending from east to west, from the top of the
main ridge of mountains which divides the eastern from the western
waters to the Mississippi river. This tract remained, as was supposed,
within the chartered limits of South Carolina, and in the year 1787 was
ceded by that State to the United States, subject to the Indian right of
occupancy. When the Indian title to the country therein described
was ceded to the United States by the treaty of 1798 with the Cherokees,
the eastern portion of this 12-mile tract fell within the limits of such
cession. On its eastern extremity near the head-waters of the French
Broad river, immediately at the foot of the main Blue Ridge Mountains,
had been located, for a number of years prior to the treaty, a settlement
of about fifty families of whites, who, by its ratification became occupants
of the public domain of the United States, but who were outside of the
territorial jurisdiction of any State. These settlers petitioned Congress
to retrocede the tract of country upon which they resided to South Caro
lina, in order that they might be brought within the protection of the
laws of that State. A resolution was reported in the House of Repre
sentatives from the committee to whom the subject had been referred,
favoring such a course, but Congress took no effective action on the sub
ject, and when the State boundaries came finally to be adjusted in that
region the tract in question was found to be within the limits of North
Carolina."34 The Walton War. That there should have been great
confusion and uncertainty as to the exact boundary lines
between the States in their earlier history is but natural,
especially in the case where the corners of three States come
together, and still more especially when they come together
in an inaccessible mountainous region, such as characterized
the cornerstone between Georgia, South and North Caro-

BOUNDARIES 33

lina. And that renegades and other lawless adventurers
should take advantage of such a condition is still more natural.
It is, therefore, not surprising to read in "The Heart of the
Alleghanies," (p. 224-5) that: "In early times, criminals and
refugees from justice made the fastnesses of the wilderness
hiding places. Their stay, in most cases, was short, seclusion
furnishing their profession a barren field for operation. A few,
however, remained, either adopting the wild, free life of the
chase, or preying upon the property of the community."
Walton County. Such a community existed at the com
mencement of the last century on the head waters of the
French Broad river in what are now Jackson and Transyl
vania counties. Some even claimed that this territory be
longed to South Carolina. But Georgia, about December,
1803, created a county within this territory and called it
Walton county. Georgia naturally attempted to exercise
jurisdiction over what it really believed was its own territory,
and North Carolina as naturally resisted such attempts.
Consequently, there were "great dissentions, . . . the said
dissentions having produced many riots, affrays, assaults,
batteries, woundings and imprisonments."
The North Carolina and Georgia Line. On January
13, 1806, Georgia presented a memorial to the House of Rep
resentatives of Congress, complaining that North Carolina
was claiming lands lying within the State of Georgia, and
asking that Congress interpose and cause the 35th degree of
north latitude to be ascertained and the line between the two
States plainly marked.
The Twelve Miles "Orphan" Strip. This was referred
to a committee which, on February 12th, reported that "be
tween the latitude of 35° north, which is the southern boundary
claimed by North Carolina, and the northern boundary of
Georgia, as settled by a convention between that State and
South Carolina, intervenes a tract of country supposed to be
about twelve miles wide, from north to south, and extending
in length from the western boundary of Georgia, at Nicajack,
on the Tennessee, to his northeastern limits at Tugalo, and
was consequently within the limits of South Carolina, and in
the year 1887 it was ceded to the United States, who [sic]
accepted the cession." This territory remained in the posses
sion of the United States until 1802, when it was ceded to the
W. N. C  3

34 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
State of Georgia, when the estimated number of Settlers on it
was 800. It was not known where these settlers came from;
but the land had belonged to the Cherokees until 1798 when
a part of it was purchased by the whites by treaty held at
Tellico. 3 5
Walton County, Georgia. At the earnest entreaty of
these inhabitants Georgia in 1803 formed the inhabited part
of this territory into Walton county and appointed commis
sioners to meet corresponding commissioners to be appointed
by North Carolina to ascertain and mark the line. But
Congress took no definite action on this report.
A Survey Agreed Upon. The two States, in 1807, came
to an agreement as to the basis of a survey. In a letter dated
at Louisville, Ga., December 10, 1806, Gov. Jared Irwin to
Gov. Nathaniel Alexander of North Carolina, enclosed sun
dry resolutions adopted by the legislature of Georgia, and
announced that that body had appointed Thomas P. Carnes,
Thomas Flournoy and William Barnett as commissioners to
ascertain the 35th° of north latitude "and plainly mark the
dividing line between the States of North Carolina and Geor
gia." On January 1, 1807, Gov. Alexander enclosed to Gov.
Irwin a copy of an act of the legislature passed at the preced
ing session assenting to the proposition of Georgia and ap
pointing John Steele, John Moore and James Welbourne
commissioners on the part of North Carolina. It was sub
sequently agreed that the commissioners from both States
should meet at Asheville June 15, 1807; Rev. Joseph Caldwell,
president of the North Carolina University, was the scientist
for North Carolina, while Mr. J. Meigs represented Georgia
in that capacity.
The Record. In the minute docket of the county court
of Buncombe, pp. 104 and 363, the proceedings of these com
missioners are set forth in full, showing that Thomas Flour
noy, one of the Georgia commissioners, did not attend but
that on the 18th of June, 1807, the others met at Bun
combe court house and agreed on a basis of procedure, the
most important point being that the 35th parallel was to be
first ascertained, after which it was to be marked and agreed
on as the line. This they proceeded to do, with the result that
on the 27th of June, at Douthard's gap on the summit of the

BOUNDARIES 35

Blue Ridge, they signed a supplemental agreement to the
effect that they had discovered by repeated astronomical ob
servations that the 35th degree of north latitude is not to be
found on any part of said ridge east of the line established by
the general government as the temporary boundary between
the white people and the Indians, and having no authority to
proceed over that boundary "in order to ascertain and mark
that degree," they agreed that Georgia had no right to claim
any part of the territory north or west of the Blue Ridge and
east or south of the present temporary line between the whites
and Indians; and would recommend to the Georgia Legislature
that it repeal the act which had established the county of
Walton on North Carolina soil. Both sets of commissioners
then agreed to recommend amnesty for all who had been guilty
of violating the laws of either State under the assumption that
it had no jurisdiction over that territory.
Following is the story as to how they had reached this agree
ment: The "Astonishment" of the Georgians.36 These scien
tists made their first observations at the house of Mr. Amos
Justice, which they supposed to be on or near the dividing line
of 35° north latitude, but discovered that it was "22 miles with
in old Buncombe," which astonished them; for Mr. Sturges,
the Surveyor General of Georgia, had previously ascertained
this meridian to be at the junction of Davidson's and Little
rivers. But, said the Georgia commissioners in their report
to their governor, they were "accompanied by an artist [sic]
appointed by the government [of the United States] whose
talents and integrity we have no reason to doubt," whose
observations accorded very nearly with their own; they "were
under the necessity of suspending our astonishment and pro
ceeding on the duty assigned us. "
Supplementary Agreement at Caesar's Head. When
they got to the junction of Davidson and Little rivers and
found that they were stUl 17 minutes north of the 35th meridian,
they "proceeded to Cesar's Head, a place on the Blue Ridge
about 12 horizontal miles directly south and in the vicinity
of Douthet's Gap, which was from 2' 57" to 4' 54" north of
the 35th parallel. They then signed the supplementary
agreement of June 27.

36 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA

Georgia's Sporting Blood. On December 28, 1808, Gov.
Irwin of Georgia wrote to Governor Stone of North Carolina,
asking for the appointment of a new commission on the part
of North Carolina to meet one already appointed by the leg
islature of Georgia; but Gov. Stone declined in a communi
cation of March 21, 1809, in which he states that it "does not
readily occur to us on what basis the adjustment is to rest, if
not upon that where it now stands — the plighted faith of two
States to abide by the determination of commissioners mutu
ally chosen for the purpose of making the adjustment those
commissioners actually made". On December 7, 1807, North
Carolina had adopted and ratified the joint report of the com
missioners of the two States and on December 18 "passed an
act of amnesty for offenders within the disputed territory. " 3 7
Georgia is Snubbed. 3 7 But Georgia sent still another
petition to Congress by way of appeal, and its legislature on
December 5, 1807, "put forth an earnest protest against the
decision arrived at by their own commissioners." But al
though on April 26, 1810, Mr. Bibb of Georgia, asked the
United States to appoint some person to run the dividing
line, and it was referred to a select committee on the 27th of
the following December, that committee never reported.
Georgia must have become reconciled, however, for in 1819
its legislature refused relief to certain citizens who had claimed
land in this disputed territory.
Contour Map and 35th Parallel. The late Captain
W. A. Curtis, for a long time editor of the Franklin Press, said,
in "A Brief History of Macon County," (1905) p. 23, 38 that
"it has long been accepted as a fact that the southern bound
ary of Macon and Clay counties, constituting the State line
between North Carolina and Georgia, is located on the 35th
parallel of north latitude. This is either a mistake or else the
latest topographical charts are incorrect. According to the
charts a straight line starts from the top of Indian Camp
mountain on the southern boundary of Translyvania county,
6M miles north of the 35th parallel, and dips somewhat south
of west until it reaches the Endicott (Ellicut) Rock at the
corner of South Carolina exactly on the 35th parallel, and,
instead of turning due west at this place, it continues on a
straight line for about twenty miles, or to 833^ degrees west
longitude, which is near the top of the Ridge Pole, close by

BOUNDARIES 37

the southwest corner of Macon county; then it turns due west,
running parallel with the 35th, and about one mile south of it,
on towards Alabama. One peculiarity of this survey is that
Estatoa, or Mud Creek Falls, which has long been considered
as being in Georgia, are, according to the map, in North
Carolina. Mud creek crosses the State line a few yards
above the falls into North Carolina, and at about half way
between the falls and the Tennessee river passes back into
Georgia. But, by examining some old records belonging to
the State Library at Raleigh in 1881, I am convinced that the
line between the States of Georgia and North Carolina has
never been correctly surveyed."
The North Carolina and Tennessee Boundary. By
the Cessions Act, Revised Statutes, 1837, Vol. ii, p. 171, North
Carolina authorized one or both United States Senators or
any two members of Congress to execute a deed or deeds to
the United States of America of the lands west of a line begin
ning on the extreme height of the Stone mountain, at the
place where the Virginia line intersects it, running thence
along the extreme height of the said mountain to the place
where Watauga river breaks through it, thence a direct course
to the top of the Yellow Mountain, where Bright's road crosses
the same, thence along the ridge of said mountains between
the waters of Doe river and the waters of Rock creek to the
place where the road crosses the Iron mountain, from thence
along the extreme height of said mountain, to where Nole-
chucky river runs through the same, thence to the top of the
Bald mountain, thence along the extreme height of the said
mountain to the Painted Rock, on French Broad river, thence
along the highest ridge of the said mountain to the place
where it is called the Great Iron or Smoky mountain, thence
along the extreme height of said mountain to the place where
it is called Unicoy or Unaka mountain, between the Indian
towns of Cowee and Old Chota, thence along the main ridge
of the said mountain to the southern boundary of this State."
The 10th section provided that "this act shall not prevent
the people now residing south of French Broad, between the
rivers Tennessee and Pigeon, from entering their pre-emp
tions on that tract, should an office be opened for that purpose
under an act of the present general assembly."

38 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
To Pay Debts and Establish Harmony. The reasons
for making this cession are set out in the act itself and are to
the effect that Congress has "repeatedly and earnestly recom
mended to the respective States . . . claiming or owning
vacant western territory," to make cession to part of the
same, as a further means "of paying the debts and establish
ing the harmony of the United States;" "and the inhabitants
of the said western territory being also desirious that such
cession should be made, in order to obtain a more ample pro
tection than they have heretofore received." The act also
provides that neither the land nor the inhabitants of the ceded
territory shall be estimated in ascertaining North Carolina's
proportion of the common expense occasioned by the war for
independence. Also that in case the lands laid off by North
Carolina for the "officers and soldiers of the Continental line"
shall not "contain a sufficient quantity of lands fit for cultiva
tion to make good the quota intended by law for each, such
officer or soldier who shall fall short of his proportion may
make up the deficiency out of lands of the ceded territory."
Having been admonished by the claim of the citizens of Watauga
that until Congress should accept the ceded territory they
would be in a state "of political orphanage," the legislature,
later in the session of 1784, had been careful to pass another
act by which North Carolina retained jurisdiction and sover
eignty over the land west of the mountains, and continued
in force all existing North Carolina laws, "until the same shall
be repealed or otherwise altered by the legislative authority
of said territory." The act ordering the survey is ch. 461,
Potter's Revisal, p. 816, Laws 1796.
The First Tennessee Boundary Survey. From the
narratives of David Vance and Robert Henry of the battles
of Kings Mountain 3 9 and Cowan's Ford, as well as from the
dairy of John Strother, can be gathered a fine account of the
survey from Virginia to the Painted Rock on the French
Broad and the Stone on the Cataloochee Turnpike. The sur
vey began on the 20th of May and ended Friday the 28th of
June, 1799. The original of Strother's diary is filed in the
suit of the Virginia, Tennessee & Carolina Steel and Iron Com
pany vs. Newman, in the United States court at Asheville, N. C.
The actual survey began May 22d, "at a sugar-tree and beech
on Pond mountain, so called from two small ponds on it."

BOUNDARIES 39

Both trees are now gone, and a stone four feet by two feet by
sixteen inches in thickness, is buried in the ground where they
stood, with a simple cross, east and west, chiseled upon it. Its
upper surface is level with the ground, and it was placed there
in 1899 or 1900 by a Mr. Buchanan of the United States
coast survey. Marion Miller and John and Alfred Bivins
assisted him. Mr. Miller still lives within a mile and a half of
the corner rock. Strother's party set out from Asheville May
12, and reached Capt. Robert Walls on New River, where
Strother arrived on the 17th, and met with Major Mussendine
Mathews, of whom Judge David Schenck says40 that he "rep
resented Iredell county in the House of Commons from 1789
to 1802 continuously. He was either a Tory or a Cynic, it
seems." They were awaiting the arrival of Col. David Vance
and Gen. Joseph McDowell, but as they did not come,
Strother went to the house of a Mr. Elsburg on the 18th.
The Party Gathers. Col. Vance and Major B. Collins
arrived on the 19th, and they all went to Captain Isaac
Weaver's. They were General Joseph McDowell, Col. David
Vance, Major Mussendine Mathews, commissioners; John
Strother and Robert Henry, surveyors; Messers. B. Collins,
James Hawkins, George Penland, Robert Logan, Geo. David
son, and J. Matthews, chain-bearers and markers; Major James
Neely, commissary; two pack-horse men and a pilot. They
camped that night on Stag creek. On the night of the 23d of
May they camped "at a very bad place" in a low gap at the
head of Laurel Fork of New river and Laurel Fork of Holston
at the head of a branch, "after having passed through extreme
rough ground and some bad laurel thickets." A road now runs
through that laurel thicket, built since the Civil War, and
runs from Hemlock postoffice, where there is now a narrow
gauge lumber railroad and an extract plant, to Laurel Bloom-
ery, in Tennessee. A small hotel now stands half on the North
Carolina and half on the Tennessee side of the line those men
then ran, and the gap is called "Cut Laurel" gap because it is
literally cut through the laurel for a mile or more. 4 x Thou
sands of gallons of blockade whiskey used to be carried through
that gap when there was nothing but a trail there. It is called
by Mr. Strother a low gap, but it is one of the highest in the
mountains. On the 28th they went to a Mr. Miller's and got
a young man to act as a pilot. Strother went from Miller's

40 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
"to Cove creek, where I got a Mr. Curtis and met the company
in a low gap between the waters of Cove creek and Roan's creek
where the road crosses the same," on Wednesday night, the
29th. Crossed Boone's Trail. This, in all probability, is the
gap through which Daniel Boone and his party had passed in
1769 on their way to Kentucky. It is between Zionville, N. C.
and Trade, Tenn., and the gap is so low that one is not con
scious of passing over the top of a high mountain. Tradition
says that an Indian trail went through the same gap, and
traces of it are still visible to the north of the present turn
pike. The young man who had been employed as a pilot at
Mr. Miller's house on the 28th was found on the 29th not to
be a "woodsman and of course he was discharged." On
June 1st they came to the "Wattogo" river, where they killed
a bear, "very poor," upon which and "some bacon stewed
together, with some good tea and johnny cake we made a Sab
bath morning breakfast fit for a European Lord. " There is a
tradition among the people living near the falls of the Watauga
at the State line, that the line between the peak to the north
of the falls and the Yellow mountain was not actually run
and marked; but the field notes of both Strother and Henry
show that the line was both run and marked all the way. The
reason the line was run from the peak north of the Watauga
to the bald of the Yellow was because the act required it to be
run in precisely that way; the language being "to the place
where Watauga river breaks through it [the mountain], thence
a direct course to the top of the Yellow Mountain where
Bright's road crosses the same." As it is impossible to see
the Yellow from the river at the falls where the river breaks
through, it was necessary to get the course from the top of the
peak north of the river.
Rattlebugs. On Saturday, June 1st, they came upon "a
very large rattlebug, " which they "attempted to kill, but it
was too souple in the heels for us. " On the night of May 31st
they had had "severe lightning and some hard slaps [sic] of
thunder. "
Laurel and Ivy. There are some who, nowadays, contend
that ivy and laurel did not grow in these mountains while the
Indians occupied them, and cite as proof that it is almost

BOUNDARIES 41

impossible to find a laurel log with rings indicating more than
a hundred years of growth. But Bishop Spangenburg men
tions having encountered laurel on what is supposed to have
been the Grandfather mountain in 1752, and John Strother,
in his diary of the survey between Virginia and North Caro
lina in 1799, repeatedly mentions it, both before and after
crossing the ridge which divides the waters of Nollechucky
from those of the French Broad. What are now known as the
"Ivory Slicks," is a tunnel cut through the otherwise impen
etrable ivy on the slope between the Hang Over and Dave
Orr's cabins on Slick Rock, south of the Little Tennessee.
Two Wagon Roads Across the Mountains. Even at
that early date there seem to have been two roads crossing the
mountains into Tennessee, for the very next call of the statute
is "thence along the ridge of said mountain between the waters
of Doe river and the waters of Rock creek to the place where
the road crosses the Iron mountain." Bright used to live at
the Crab Orchard, long known as Avery's Quarters, about a
mile above Plum Tree, and where W. W. Avery now lives. 4 2
On the 5th of June Major Neely "turned off the line today and
went to Doe river settlements for a fresh supply of provisions, "
and was to meet them at the Yellow mountain, where on that
day the trees were "just creeping out of their winter garb,"
and where "the lightning and thunder were so severe that
they were truly alarming." From "the yellow spot" on the
Yellow, whither they had gone to take observations, but were
prevented by the storm, "we went back and continued the line
on to a low gap at the head of Roaring or Sugar creek of Towe
[sic] river and a creek of Doe river at the road leading from
Morganton to Jonesborough, where we encamped as wet as
we could be." This fixes the main road between North Caro
lina and the Watauga settlement, which had been finished in
1772, and over which Andrew Jackson was to pass in the
spring of 1788. 43 Robert Henry mentions a Gideon Lewis
as one of the guides from White Top mountain, and it is re
markable that a direct descendant of his and having his name
is now living at Taylor's Valley, near Konarok, Va., and that
several others now live near Solitude or Ashland, N. C.
Was This Ever "No Man's Land"? When the survey
ing party came to the Yellow they found that the compass had
been deflected when it had been sighted from the peak just

42 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
north of Watauga Falls, caused doubtless by the proximity to
the Cranberry Iron mountain, of whose existence apparently
they then had no knowledge. Of late years some have supposed
that the "territory between the Iron mountain and the
Blue Ridge, after the act of cession, was left out of any county
from 1792 or 1793 till 1818 or 1822, and was without any local
government till it was annexed to Burke county." L. D.
Lowe, Esq., in the Watauga Democrat of July 3d, 1913, gave
the following explanation: "It is quite true that there was
no local government, but it was not for the reason that this
part of the territory was not claimed by Burke county; but it
was because the lands had been granted to a few, and there
were only a limited number of people within the territory to
be governed, hence there was very little attention paid to it. "
In previous articles in the same paper he had shown that "the
reason this territory had not been settled at an earlier date"
was because "the State had been paid for more than three
hundred thousand acres embraced within the boundaries of
six grants, " but had failed to refer to the fact that "these grants
or some of them had especially excepted certain other grants
within their boundaries — for example, certain grants to
Waightstill Avery, Reuben White, John Dobson and others.
Within the past twenty-five years it has been clearly demon
strated that some of the Cathcart grants run with the Ten
nessee line for 14 miles."
Home Comforts. "Mr. Hawkins and myself went down
to Sugar creek to a Mr. Currey's, where we got a good supper
and a bed to sleep in," continues the diary. Evidently the
food in the camp had about given out, for we hear nothing
more of meals "fit for a European Lord;" but, instead, of the
comforts of good Mr. Currey's bed and board. Here too they
"took breakfast with Mrs. Currey, got our clothes washed
and went to camp, where Major Neely met us with a fresh
supply of provisions. It rained all day [and] of course we are
still at our camp at the head of Sugar creek. "
Pleasant Beech Flats. The next day they crossed
"high spur of the Roan mountain to a low gap therein where
we encamped at a pleasant Beech flat and good spring. "
Any one who has never seen one of these "pleasant beech
flats" would scarcely realize what they are like. As one
ascends any of the higher mountains of North Carolina, the

BOUNDARIES 43

size of all the trees perceptibly diminish, especially near the
six thousand feet line, to be succeeded, generally, on the less
precipitous slopes, by miniature beech trees, perfect in shape,
but resembling the so-called dwarf-trees of the Japanese.
They really seem to be toy trees.
John Strother's Flowers of Rhetoric. It was here
that they "spent the Sabbath day in taking observations from
the high spur we crossed, in gathering the fir oil of the Balsam
of Pine which is found on the mountain, in collecting a root
said to be an excellent preventative against the bite of a rattle
snake, and in visioning the wonderful scene this conspicuous
situation affords. There is no shrubbery grows on the tops
of this mountain for several miles, say, and the wind has such
a power on the top of this mountain that the ground is blowed
in deep holes all over the northwest sides. The prospect
from the Roan mountain is more conspicuous [extensive?] than
from any other part of the Appelatchan mountains."
Cloudland. A modern prospectus of the large and
comfortable hostelry, called the Cloudland hotel, which has
crowned this magnificent mountain for more than thirty years,
the result of the ardor and enterprise of Gen. John H. Wilder
of Chattanooga, Tenn., could not state the charms of this
most charming resort, now become the sure refuge of hundreds
of sufferers from that scourge of late summer and early autumn
and known'as hay fever, more invitingly.
Unsurpassed View. Of the magnificence of this view a
later chronicler has this to say: "That view from the Roan
eclipses everything I have ever seen in the White, Green, Cat-
skill and Virginia mountains. " This is a statement put into the
mouth of a Philadelphia lawyer in 1882 by the authors of
"The Heart of the Alleghanies," p. 253.
Mountain Moonshine. On Monday they "proceeded
on between the head of Rock creek and Doe river, and en
camped in a low gap between these two streams. The next
day they went five or six miles to the foot of the Iron mountain
to a place they called Strother's Camp, where they had some
good songs, "then raped [wrapped] ourselves up in our blank
ets and slep sound till this morning." Here "Cols. Vance
and Neely went to the Limestone settlements for a pilot,
returned to us on the line at two o'clock with a Mr. Collier as
pilot and two gallons whiskey, we stop, drank our own health

44 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA

and proceeded on the line. Ascended a steep spur of the
Unaker mountain, got into a bad laurel thicket, cut our way
some distance. Night came on, we turned off and camped at
a very bad place, it being a steep laurelly hollow," but the
whiskey had such miraculous powers that it made the place
"tolerably comfortable."
Bad Luck on the Thirteenth. On Thursday the 13th,
if they were superstitious, the expected bad luck happened;
for here they were informed that for the next two or three
days' march the pack-horses could not proceed on the line — -
that is, could not follow the extreme height of the mountain
crest. This was a calamity indeed; but what was the result?
How did these men meet it? We read how:
Between Hollow Poplar and Greasy Cove. "Myself
[John Strother] together with the chain-bearers and markers
packed our provisions on our backs and proceeded on with the
line, the horses and rest of the company was conducted round
by the pilot a different route. We continued the line through
a bad laurel thicket to the top of the Unaker mountain and
along the same about three miles and camped at a bad laurelly
branch." On Friday, however, they came "to the path
crossing [the Unaker mountain] from Hollow Poplar to the
Greasy Cove and met our company. It rained hard. We
encamped on the top of the mountain half a mile from water
and had an uncomfortable evening. "
Devil's Creek and Lost Cove. It seems that the infor
mation Mr. Collier had given "respecting the Unaker moun
tain was false," and Mr. Strother prevailed upon the com
missioners to discharge him on Saturday the 15th of June.
They then crossed the Nolechucky "where it breaks through
the Unaker or Iron mountain." Here it is that that match
less piece of modern railroad engineering, the C. C. &. O. R.
R., disputes with the "Chucky" its dominion of the canon
and transports from its exhaustless coal mines in Virginia
hundreds of tons of the finest coal to its terminus on the
Atlantic coast.
Robert Henry Meets His Fate. Here, too, it being again
found "impracticable to take horses from this place on the line
to the Bald mountain, Mr. Henry, the chain-bearers and
markers, took provisions on their backs [and] proceeded on
the line and the horses went round by the Greasy Cove and

BOUNDARIES 45

met the rest of the company on Sunday on the top of the Bald
mountain, where we tarried till Tuesday morning."
"Tarrying" in the Greasy Cove. One cannot help
wondering why they "tarried" here so long; but no one who
has ever visited that "Greasy Cove" and shared the hospital
ity of its denizens need long remain without venturing a guess;
for it is a pleasant place to be, with the "red banks of Chucky"
still crumbling in the bend of the river and the ravens croak
ing from their cliffs among the fastnesses of the Devil's Look
ing Glass looming near. 4 4 The C. C. & 0. have their immense
shops here now, covering almost a hundred acres of land.
Vance's Camp. From the Bald mountain, now in Yancey
county, it seems that Col. Love became their pilot; and five or
six miles further on in "a low gap between the head of Indian
creek and the waters of the south fork of Laurel, we encamped
and called it Vance's Camp." The richness of the moun
tains is noted.
The Grier Bald. This Bald is sometimes called the Grier
Bald from the fact that David Grier, a hermit, lived upon it
for thirty-two years. 4 5 Grier was a native of South Carolina
who, because one of the daughters of Col. David Vance
refused to marry him, built himself a log house here in 1802,
just three years after Colonel Vance had passed the spot, and
it is probable Grier first heard of it through this gentleman.
In a quarrel over his land he killed a man named Holland
Higgins and was acquitted on the ground of insanity "and
returned home to meet his death at the hands of one of Hol
land's friends."
Boone's Cove. On Wednesday the 19th of June, after
having suffered severely the previous night from gnats, they
went to "Boone's Cove, between the waters of Laurel and
Indian creeks," while on the 20th they had to pass over steep
and rocky and brushy knobs, with water scarce and a consid
erable distance from the line. All day Friday their horses
suffered from want of water and food, part of the way being
impassable for horses; while on Saturday it took them "four
hours and 23 minutes" to cut their way one and one-fourth
miles to the top of the mountain, where, after getting through
the laurel, they "came into an open flat on top of Beech moun
tain where we camped till Monday at a good spring and excel
lent range for our horses."

46 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
A Recruit of Bacon. On Monday, the 24th of June,
their provisions began to fail them again, but they proceeded
on the line six miles and "crossed the road leading from Bar-
nett's Station to the Brushy Cove and encamped in a low gap
between the waters of Paint creek and Laurel river."46
They had a wet evening here; but as they "suped on venison
stewed with a recruit of bacon Major Neely brought in this
day from the Brushy Cove settlement," we may hope their
lot was not altogether desolate; for it is possible that this
enterprising commissary, Major Neely, might have brought
them something besides that "recruit of bacon"; for it will be
recalled that on a former occasion he went for a pilot and
returned not only with a pilot but with two gallons of a liquid
that "had such marvelous powers" that it made a very "bad
place" "tolerably comfortable."
Barnett's Station. At any rate, they knew they were
nearing the end of their long and arduous journey, for they
had now reached the waters of Paint creek, which they must
have known was in the neighborhood of the "Painted Rock,"
their destination. The Barnett Station referred to above
was probably Barnard's old stock stand on the French Broad
river, five or six miles below Marshall.
Off the Track for Awhile. After losing their way on the
25th and "having a very uncomfortable time of it" on Paint
creek, they got on the "right ridge from the place we got off
of it and proceeded on the line five miles and encamped between
the waters of F. B. R. [French Broad river] and Paint creek. "
"Hasey" and "Anctoous. " Thursday 27. This morning
is cloudy and hasey. The Commissioners being anctoous to
get on to the Painted Rock started us early"; but they took
a wrong ridge again and had to return and spend an uncom
fortable evening.
Dropping the Plummet from Paint Rock. However,
on Friday, the 28th day of June, 1799, they reached the Painted
Rock at last and measured its height, finding it to be "107
feet three inches high from the top to the base," that "it
rather projects out," and that "the face of the rock bears but
few traces of its having formerly been painted, owing to its
being smoked by pine knots and other wood from a place at
its base where travellers have frequently camped. In the
year 1790 it was not much smoked, the pictures of some

BOUNDARIES 47

humans, wild beasts, fish and fowls were to be seen plainly
made with red paint, some of them 20 and 30 feet from its
base." Animal Pictures Have Disappeared. How much more
satisfactory this last sentence would have been if he had only
added: "I saw them." For, as the rock appears today,
the red paint seems to be nothing more or less than the oxida
tion of the iron in the exposed surfaces, while all trace of
"some humans, wild beasts," etc., mentioned by him have
entirely disappeared.
The Real "Painted Rock." However, he leaves us in
no doubt that they had reached the real Painted Rock called
for by the Act of Cession, ceding "certain lands therein de
scribed"; for he goes on to say that, while "some gentlemen
of Tennessee wish to construe as the painted rock referred to"
another rock in the French Broad river "about seven miles
higher up on the opposite or S. W. side in a very obscure
place," that "it is to be observed that there is no rock on
French Broad river that ever was known as the painted rock
but the one first described, which has, ever since the River
F. Broad was explored by white men, been a place of Pub-
lick Notoriety."
Surpasses a "Best Seller" of To-day. This is the next
to the concluding sentence in this quaint and charming nar
rative — a narrative that one hundred and fifteen years
after it was penned can still be read with more interest than
many of the so-called "best sellers" of the present day.
"We then went up to the Warm Springs where we spent
the evening in conviviality and friendship."
The Loneliness of Bachelorhood. But it is in the very
last sentence that one begins to suspect that John Strother
was at that time a bachelor, for we read :
"Saturday, 29th. The Company set out for home to which place I
wish them a safe arrival and happy reception, as for myself I stay at the
Springs to get clear of the fatigue of the Tour."
One wonders whose bright eyes made his "fatigue" so
much greater than that of the others and kept him so long
at the springs.
To the "Big Pigeon." The line from the Painted Rock
to the Big Pigeon was run a few weeks later on by the same

48 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA

commissioners and surveyors; but we have no narrative of
the trip, which, doubtless, was without incident, though the
way, probably, was rough and rugged.
Second Tennessee Boundary Survey. North Carolina
having acquired by the treaty of February 27, 1819, all lands
from the mouth of the Hiwassee "to the first hill which
closes in on said river, about two miles above Hiwassee Old
Town; thence along the ridge which divides the waters of the
Hiwassee and Little Tellico to the Tennessee river at Talas-
see; thence along the main channel to the junction of the
Cowee and Nanteyalee; thence along the ridge in the fork of
said river to the top of the Blue Ridge; thence along the Blue
Ridge to the Unicoy Turnpike road; thence by straight line to
the nearest main source of the Chastatee; thence along its main
channel to the Chattahoochee, etc.,"47 it became necessary
to complete its boundary line from the Big Pigeon at the
Cataloochee turnpike southwest to the Georgia line. To
that end it passed, in 1819 (2 R. S. N. C, 1832), an act under
which James Mebane, Montford Stokes and Robert Love
were appointed commissioners for North Carolina for the pur
pose of running and marking said line. These commissioners
met Alexander Smith, Isaac Allen and Simeon Perry, com
missioners representing Tennessee, at Newport, Tenn., at the
mouth of the Big Pidgeon, July 16, 1821; and, starting from the
stone in the Cataloochee turnpike road which had been set
up by the commissioners of 1799, they ran in a southwest-
wardly course to the Bald Rock on the summit of the Great
Iron or Smoky mountain, and continued along the main top
thereof to the Little Tennessee river. The notes of W. Dav
enport's field book give as detailed an account of the progress
of these commissioners and surveyors as did John Strother's
in 1799; but as they met no one between these two points
there was little to relate. The same or another party might
follow the same route to-day and they would meet no one.
But Mr. Davenport does not call the starting point a "turn
pike." He calls it a "track," which was quite as much as it
could lay claim to, the present turnpike having been built
from Jonathan's creek up Cove creek, across the Hannah gap,
passing the Carr place and up the Little Cataloochee, through
Mount Sterling gap, as late as the fifties. 4 8 At twenty miles
from the starting point they were on "the top of an extreme

BOUNDARIES 49

high pinnacle in view of Sevierville. " At 22 miles they were at
the Porter gap, from which, in 1853, Eli Arrington of Waynes-
ville carried on his shoulders W. W. Rhinehart, dying of
milk-sick, three miles down the Bradley fork of Ocona Luftee
to a big poplar, where Rhinehart died. Near here, although
they did not know it then, an alum cave was one day to be
discovered, out of which, in the lean years of the Southern
Confederacy, Col. William H. Thomas and his Indians were
to dig for alum, copperas, saltpeter and a little magnesia to
be used in the hospitals of this beleaguered land, in default of
standard medicines which had been made contraband of war.
Arnold Guyot and S. B. Buckley. Here, too, Arnold
Guyot, the distinguished professor of geology and physical
geography of Princeton college, came in 1859, following Prof.
S. B. Buckley, and made a series of barometric measurements,
not alone of the Great Smoky mountain chain, but also of that
little known and rugged group of peaks wholly in Tennessee,
known as the Bull Head mountains.
Doubtful of a Road Ever Crossing the Smokies.
Surveyor Davenport noted a low gap through which "if there
ever is a wagon road through the Big Smoky mountain, it
must go through this gap." Well, during the Civil War,
Col. Thomas, with his "sappers and miners," composed of
Cherokee Indians and Union men of East Tennessee, did make
a so-called wagon road through this gap, now called Collins
gap; and through it, in January, 1864, General Robert B.
Vance carried a section of artillery, dragging the dismounted
cannon, not on skids, but over the bare stones, only to be
captured himself with a large part of his command at Causbey
creek two days later. But no other vehicle has ever passed
that frightful road, save only the front wheels of a wagon,
as it is dangerous even to walk over its precipitous and rock-
ribbed course. No other road has ever been attempted, and
this one has been abandoned, except by horsemen and foot
men, for years. Not even a wagon track is visible. On the
7th of August they came at the 31st mile to Meigs' Post.
At the 34th mile they came in view of Brasstown; and next
day, at the 45th mile, they reached the head of Little river, and
must have been in plain view of Tuckaleechee Cove and near
Thunderhead mountain, both immortalized by Miss Mary
N. Murfree (Charles Egbert Craddock) in her stories of the
W. N. C  i

50 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA

Tennessee mountains. On the 11th they were at the head
of Abram's creek, which flows through Cade's Cove into the
Little Tennessee at that gem of all mountain coves, the Har
den farm at Talassee ford. On the 13th they came to a "red
oak ... at Equeneetly path to Cade's cove. " This is only
a trail, and is at the head of one of the prongs of Eagle creek
and not far from where Jake and Quil Rose, two famous
mountaineers, lived in the days of blockade stills. Of course
they did not still any! On this same unlucky 13th, they
came to the top of a bald spot in sight of Talassee Old Town,
at the 57th mile. This is the Harden farm spoken of above,
and is a tract of about 500 acres of level and fertile land. On
the 16th they passed over Parsons and Gregory Balds. On
this day also they crossed the Little Tennessee river "to a
large white pine on the south side of the river at the mouth
of a large creek, 65th mile." From there on to the Hiwassee
turnpike the boundary line is in dispute, the case being now
before the Supreme Court of the United States. One of the
marks still visible is that made on the 19th, at the 86th mile,
"a holly tree . . . near the head of middle fork of Tellico
river. " They were then close to what has since been known
as State Ridge, on which in July, 1892, William Hall, stand
ing on the North Carolina side of the line, was to shoot and
kill Andrew Bryson; and if these surveyors had not done their
work well, Hall might have suffered severely; for, all uncon
sciously, this man was to invoke the same law Carson and
Vance and other noted duellists had relied on, when they
"fought across the State line."49 Zim. Roberts, who lives
under the Devil's Looking Glass, says that a healthy white
oak tree, under which Hall was standing when he fired at
Bryson, began to die immediately and is now quite dead.
On the 20th of August they were at "the 89th mile, at the
head of Beaver Dam" creek of Cherokee county, N. C, and
not far from the Devil's Looking Glass, " an ugly cliff of rock,
where the ridge comes to an abrupt and almost perpendicular
end. On that day, at the 93d mile, they came to "the trad
ing path leading from the Valley Towns to the Overhill set
tlements," reaching the 95th mile on that path before they
paused. That Sahara-Like Thirst. On the 24th, at the 96th
mile, they were on the top of the Unicoy mountain, and on

BOUNDARIES 51

the same day they reached "the hickory and rock at the
wagon road, the 101st mile, at the end of the Unicoy moun
tain." It was here that tradition says that the Sahara-like
thirst overtook the party; as from the 101st mile post their
course was "due south 15 miles and 220 poles to a post oak
post on the Georgia line, at 23 poles west of the 72d mile
from the Nick-a-jack Old Town on the Tennessee river."
Tryon's Boundary Line. "In the spring and early sum
mer of 1767 there were fresh outbreaks on the part of the
Indians. Governor Tryon had run a boundary-line between
the back settlements of the Carolinas and the Cherokee hunt-
ting-grounds. But hunters and traders would persist in wan
dering to the west of this line and sometimes they were
killed."60 Indian Boundary Lines. Almost as important as the
State lines were the Indian boundary lines ; biH most of jvhem
were natural boundaries and have given Mit little trouble.
There was one notable exception, howevefs\ and that is ',he
Meigs and Freeman Line. According to the^map of Vie
"Former Territorial Limits of the Cherokee Indian^" ac
companying the Fifth Annual Report of the Bureau of EreL-
nology, 1883-84, there were three lines run to establish the
boundary between the Cherokees and the ceded territory
under the treaty of October 2, 1798; the first of which was
run by Captain Butler in 1798, and extending from "Meigs'
post on the Great Stone mountain t;0 a fork of the Keowee
river in South Carolina known as L ttle river. But, accord
ing to the text51 the line was not run till the summer of
1799, and is described as "extending from Great Iron moun
tain in a southeasterly direction to the point where the most
southerly branch of Little river crossed the divisional line to
Tugaloo river." However, "owing to the unfortunate de
struction of official records by fire, in the year 1800, it is im
possible to ascertain all the details concerning this survey,
but it was executed on the theory that the "Little River"
named in the treaty was one of the northermost branches of
Keowee river." 52
Return J. Meigs and Thomas Freeman. But, "this sur
vey seems not to have been accepted by the War Depart
ment, for on the 3d of June, 1802, instructions were issued
by the Secretary of War to Return J. Meigs, as commissioner,

52 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA

to superintend the execution of the survey of this same por
tion of the boundary. Mr. Thomas Freeman was appointed
surveyor."53 "There were three streams of that name in
that vicinity. Two of these were branches of the French
Broad and the other of the Keowee.' '
Expediency Governed. "If the line should be run to the
lower of these two branches of the French Broad, it would
leave more than one hundred white families of white settlers
within the Indian territory. If it were run to the branch of
the Keowee river, it would leave ten or twelve Indian vil
lages within the State of North Carolina." It was, therefore,
determined by Commissioner Meigs to accept the upper
branch of the French Broad as the true intent and meaning
of the creaty, and the line was run accordingly; whereby
'"not a^single white settlement was cut off or intersected, and
but £ ye Indian .families were left on the Carolina side of the
line./ V
jSocation of ^Ke "Meigs Post. " In a footnote (p. 181-2)
Cmmissironer Meies refers to the plat and field-notes of Sur-
v^9f*^Freeman, bii| the author declares that they cannot be
found among the lidian office records. 5 4 Also that there is
"much difficulty inlascertaining the exact point of departure
of the 'Meigs Line' 'from the great Iron Mountains. In the
report of the Tennessee and North Carolina boundary com
missioners in 1821 it instated to be "31 3^ miles by the cource
of the mountain ridge ma general southwesterly course from
the crossing of Cataloochee turnpike; 93^ miles in a similar
direction from Porter's gap; 21^ miles in a northeasterly
direction from the crossir^ of Equovetley Path, and 333^
miles in a like course from the crossing of Tennessee river. "
... It was stated to the author by Gen. R. N. Hood, of
Knoxville, Tenn., that there is a tradition that "Meigs Post"
was found some years since about lj^ miles southwest of
Indian gap. A map of the survey of Qualla Boundary, by
M. S. Temple, in 1876, shows a portion of the continuation
of "Meigs Line as passing about V/2 miles east of Qualla-
town." Surveyor Temple mentions it as running "south 50°
east (formerly south 52J^° east)." Meigs' Post should have
stood at the eastern end of the Hawkins Line which had been
run by Col. Benj. Hawkins and Gen. Andrew Pickens in
August, 1797, pursuant to the treaty of July 2, 1791, com-

BOUNDARIES 53

mencing 1000 yards above South West Point (now Kingston)
and running south 76° east to the Great Iron Mountain. B 5
"From this point the line continued in the same course until
it reached the Hopewell treaty line of 1785, and was called
the "Pickens line."66 The Hopewell treaty line ran from a
point west of the Blue Ridge and about 12 miles east of Hen-
dersonville, crossed the Swannanoa river just east of Asheville,
and went on to McNamee's camp on the Nollechucky river,
three miles southeast of Greenville, Tenn. "The supposition
is that as the commissioners were provided with two survey
ors, they separated, Col. Hawkins, with Mr. Whitner as sur
veyor, running the line from Clinch river to the Great Iron
Mountains, and Gen. Pickens, with Col. Kilpatrick as sur
veyor, locating the remainder of it. This state wast is veri
fied so far as Gen. Pickens is concerned by h m ^he sumr*-n
statement."57 . Swannanor
Col. Stringfield Follows the Line. G^jjj known a^ers'
Esq., an attorney of Waynesville, says there is nmv <ition
that the Meigs and Freeman posts were really posi_ t up
along this line, and not marks made on living trees; bui> 3ol.
W. W. Stringfield of the same place writes that he measured
nine and one-half miles southwestwardly of Porter's gap
"and found Meigs' post, a torn-down stone pile on the top
of a smooth mountain. .' . . Meigs' and Freeman's line was
as well marked as any line I ever saw; I traced this line
south 52}4 ° east, from Scott's creek to the top of Tennessee
mountain, between Haywood and Transylvania counties, a
few miles south of and in full view of the Blue Ridge or South
Carolina line ... I found a great many old marks, evidently
made when the line was first run in 1802. I became quite
familiar with this line in later years, and ran numerous lines
in and around the same in the sale of the Love "Speculation"
lands. . . . Many of these old marked trees can still be found
all through Jackson county, on the waters of Scott's creek,
Cane or Wurry-hut, Caney Fork, Cold or Tennessee creek,
and others." 5 8 When he was running the line he was told by
Chief Smith of the Cherokees, Wesley Enloe, then over 80
years old, Dr. Mingus, then 92 years old, Eph. Connor and
others, that he was on the Meigs line.
Return Jonathan Meigs. "He was the firstborn son
of his parents, who gave him the somewhat peculiar name

54 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Return Jonathan to commemorate a romantic incident in
their own courtship, when his mother, a young Quakeress
called back her lover as he was mounting his horse to leave
the house forever after what he had supposed was a final
refusal. The name has been handed down through five gen
erations." 69 . . .
Treaty of 1761. 60 The French having secured the active
sympathy of the Cherokees in their war with Great Britain,
Governor Littleton of South Carolina, marched against the
Indians and defeated them, and in 1760, concluded a treaty
with them, under which the Cherokees agreed to kill or im
prison every Frenchman who should come into their country
during the war. But as the Cherokees still continued hos-
tUe Seath Carolina sent Col. Grant, who conquered them in
17rl^ and concluded a treaty by which "the boundaries be
tween the Indians and the settlements were declared to be the
sources of the gre&t rivers flowing into the Atlantic ocean."
As the Bhie Ridge is an unbroken watershed south of the
Potarmi river, this made that mountain range the true east
ern rroundary of the Indians. This treaty remained in force
till the treaty of 1772 anti the purchase of 1775 to the north
ern part of that boundary, or the land lying west of the Blue
Ridge and north of the NoUechucky river. It remained in
force as to all land west and south of that territory till 1785
(November 28), called the treaty of Hopewell.
Treaty of 1772 and Purchase of 1775. The Virginia
authorities in the early part of 1772 concluded a treaty with
the Cherokees whereby a boundary line was fixed between
them, which was to run west from White Top mountain, which
left those settlers on the Watauga river within the Indian
limits, whereupon, as a measure of temporary relief, they
leased for a period of eight years all the country on the waters
of the Watauga river. "Subsequently in 1775 (March 19)
they secured a deed in fee simple therefor, "... and it em
braced all the land on "the waters of the Watauga, Holston,
and Great Canaway [sic] or New river." This tract began
"on the south or southwest of the Holston river six miles
above Long Island in that river; thence a direct line in nearly
a south course to the ridge dividing the waters of Watauga
from the waters of Nonachuckeh (NoUechucky or Toe) and
along the ridge in a southeasterly direction to the Blue Ridge

BOUNDARIES 55

or line dividing North Carolina from the Cherokee lands;
thence along the Blue Ridge to the Virginia line and west along
such line to the Holston river; thence down the Holston to the
beginning, including all waters of the Watauga, part of the
waters of Holston, and the head branches of the New river
or Great Canaway, agreeable to the aforesaid boundaries." 61
Treaty of Hopewell, 1785. Hopewell is on the Keowee
river, fifteen miles above its junction with the Tugaloo. It was
here that the treaty that was to move the boundary line west
of the Blue Ridge was made. This line began six miles southeast
of Greenville, Term., where Camp or McNamee's creek empties
into the NoUechucky river; and ran thence a southeast course
"to Rutherford's War Trace," ten or twelve miles west of
the Swannanoa settlement. This "War Trace" was the route
followed by Gen. Griffith Rutherford, when, in the summer
of 1776, he marched 2,400 men through the Swannanoa gap,
passed over the French Broad at a place still known as the
"War Ford"; continued up the valley of Hominy creek,
leaving Pisgah mountain to the left, and crossing Pigeon river
a little below the mouth of East Fork; thence through the
mountains to Richland creek, above the present town of
Waynesville, etc. From the point where the line struck the
War Trace it was to go "to the South Carolina Indian bound
ary." Thus, the line probably ran just east of Marshall,
Asheville and Hendersonville to the South Carolina line,
though its exact location was rendered "unnecessary by rea
son of the ratification in February, 1792, of the Cherokee
treaty concluded July 2, 1791, wherein the Indian boundary
line was withdrawn a considerable distance to the west." 62
North Carolina's Indian Reservation. Meantime, how
ever, North Carolina being a sovereign State, bound to the
Confederation of the Union only by the loose articles of
confederation, in 1883, set apart an Indian reservation of its
own; which ran from the mouth of the Big Pigeon to its source
and thence along the ridge between it and the waters of the
Tuckaseigee (Code N. C, Vol. ii, sec. 2346) to the South
Carolina line. This, however, does not seem to have been
supported by any treaty. The State had simply moved the
Indian boundary line twenty miles westward to the Pigeon
river at Canton.

56 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Treaties of 1791 and 1792. The treaty of 1791 was not
satisfactory to the Indians and another treaty supplemental
thereto was made February 17, 1792, which in its turn was
followed by one of January 21, 1795, and another of October
2, 1798. They all call for what was afterwards run and called
the Meigs and Freeman line, treated fully under that head. 6 3
Treaty of February 27, 1819. This treaty cedes all
land from the point where the Hiwassee river empties into
the Tennessee, thence along the first ridge which closes in on
said river, two miles above Hiwassee Old Town; thence along
the ridge which divides the waters of Hiwassee and Little
Tellico to the Tennessee river at Talassee; thence along the
main channel to the junction of the Nanteyalee; thence along
the ridge in the fork of said river to the top of the Blue Ridge;
thence along the Blue Ridge to the Unicoy Turnpike, etc. .
This moved the line twenty miles west of what is now Frank
lin.64 Treaty of -New Echota, December 29, 1835. By this
treaty the Cherokees gave up all their lands east of the Mis
sissippi river, and all claims for spoliation for $5,000,000, and
the 7,000,000 acres of land west of the Mississippi river, guar
anteed them by the treaties of 1828 and 1833. This was the
treaty for their removal, treated in the chapter on the East
ern Band. 6 6
The Rainbow Country. During the year 1898 while
Judge H. G. Ewart was acting as District Judge of the U. S.
Court at Asheville, some citizen^ of New Jersey obtained a
judgment against the heirs of the late Messer Fain of Chero
kee county for certain land in the disputed territory, known as
the Rainbow Country because of its shape. The sheriff of
Monroe county, Tennessee, armed with a writ of possession
from the Tennessee court, entered the house occupied by one
of Fain's sons and took possession. Fain had him arrested
for assault and trespass, and he sued out a writ of habeas
corpus before Judge Ewart, who decided the case in favor of
Fain; but the sheriff appealed to the Circuit Court of Appeals
for the 4th circuit, and Judge Ewart was reversed. There
upon Fain sued out a writ of certiorari before the Supreme
Court of the United States; but after the writ had been
granted Fain decided not to pay for the printing of the

BOUNDARIES 57

large record, and the case was dismissed for want of prose
cution. This was one of the forerunners to litigation with
Tennessee. Recent Boundary Disputes. There is now pending be
fore the Supreme Court of the United States a controversy
between the State of Tennessee and the State of North Caro
lina over what is known as the "Rainbow" country at the
head of Tellico creek, Cherokee county. Tennessee claims
that the line should have followed the main top of the Unaka
mountains instead of leaving the main ridge and crossing one
prong of Tellico creek which rises west of the range. This is
probably what should have been done if the commissioners
who ran the line in 1821 had followed the text of the statute
literally; but they left the main top and crossed this piong of
Tellico creek, and their report and field-notes, showing that
this had been done were returned to their respective States
and the line as run and marked was adopted by Tennessee as
well as by North Carolina. 6 6
Lost Cove Boundary Line. In 1887, Gov. Scales, under
the law providing for the appointment of a commission to
meet another from Tennessee to determine at what point on
the NoUechucky river the State line crosses, appointed Cap
tain James M. Gudger for North Carolina, J. R. Neal be
ing his surveyor; but there was -a disagreement from the
outset between the North Carolina and the Tennessee com
missioners. The latter msisted on going south from the high
peak north of the NoUechucky river, which brought them to
the deep hole at the mouth of lost Cove creek, at least three
quarters of a mile east of the point at which the line run for
the North Carolina commissioner reached the same stream,
which was a few hundred yards below the mouth of Devil's
creek. The North Carolina commissioner claimed to have
the original field-notes of the surveyors, and followed them
strictly. Neither side would yield to the other, and the line
remains as it was originally run in 1799. The notes followed
by Captain Gudger were deposited by him with his report
with the Secretary of State at Raleigh. See Pub. Doc. 1887,
and Dugger v. McKesson, 100 N. C, p. 1.
Macon County Line. The legislature of North Carolina
provided for a survey between Macon County, N. C, and
Rabun county, Ga., in 1879, from Elliquet's Rock, the cor-

58 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA

ner of North Carolina, South Carolina and Georgia, to the
"Locust Stake", and as much further as the line was in dis
pute. L. Howard of Macon county was the commissioner for
North Carolina. (Ch. 387, Laws 1883.)
Tennessee Line Between Cherokee and Graham. The
line between these two counties and Tennessee was ordered
located by the county surveyors of the counties named ac
cording to the calls of the act of 1821. See Ch. 202, Pub.
L. 1897, p. 343. NOTES.
^sheville's Centenary.
2Col. Rec., Vol. V, p. xxxix.
aibid.'Ibid. "Hill, p. 31-32.
•Ibid., p. 33.
'Ibid., p. 89."
•Ibid., p. 88.
"Ibid., 89.
"Col. Rec, Vol. Ill, p. 23 et seq.
"Ibid., Vol. II, p. 790.
"Ibid., p. 794.
13" The line thus run was accepted by both Colonies and remains still the boundary
between the two states '' Hill, 89.
14Byrd, 190.
15Col. Rec, Vol. II, p. 223.
16Ibid., Vol. I, p. xxiv.
"Col. Rec, Vol. IV, p. xiii.
18The large green, treeless spot on the top of this mountain, covered with grass, is sur
rounded by a forest of singular trees, locally known as "Lashorns. " From a sketch of
Wilborn Waters, "The Hermit Hunter of White Top," by J. A. Testerman, of Jefferson,
Ashe Co., N. C, the following description of these trees is taken: "They have a diameter
of from 15 to 30 feet, and their branches will hold the weight of several persons at one time
on their level tops. They resemble the Norway Spruce, but do not thrive when trans
planted." The diameter given above refers to that of the branches, not of the trunks.
"Ch. 144, Laws 1779, 377, Potter's Revisal; W. C. Kerr in Report of Geological Survey
of N. C, Vol. I, (1875), p. 2, states that this survey carried the line beyond Bristol, Tenn.-
Va. 20A glance at any map of Tennessee reveals the fact that the line does not run "due
west" all the way; but that does not concern North Carolina now.
"Roosevelt, Vol. I, 217.
22Oglethorpe did not sail for Savannah till November 17, 1732.
23Its head waters are in Rockingham and Guilford counties.
2 4The mouth of the Waccamaw river must be 90 miles southwest from that of the Cape
Fear. "Col. Rec, Vol. IV, 8.
26Mear means a boundary, a limit.
"Col. Bee, Vol. IV, p. vii, and W. C. Kerr's Report of the Geological Survey of N. C,
(1875). 28It was in the Waxhaw settlement that Andrew Jackson was born, March 15, 1767.
2»P otter's Revisal, p. 1280.
"Potter's Revisal, 1131.
"Ibid., 1280.
"Ibid., 1318.
"Ellicott's Bock is on the west bank of Chatooga river. Rev. St. N. C, Vol. II, 145.
Andrew EHicott had been previously appointed to survey the line under the Creek treaty
of 1790, according to Fifth Eth. Rep., p. 163.
"Fifth Eth. Rep., p. 182.
"N. C. Booklet, Vol. Ill, No. 12.
"Ibid."Ibid.
"By the late C. D. Smith, 1905.
"Draper, 259.
"In the Narrative of Vance and Henry of the Battle of Kings Mountain, published in
1892 by T. F. Davidson.
"Ambrose gap is a few miles southwest, and is so called because a free negro of that
name built a house across the State line in this gap, and when he died his grave was dug
hali in Tennessee and half in North Carolina, according to local tradition.
"Draper, 176.
43Allison, p. 4.

BOUNDARIES 59

"Robert Henry had gone to get Robert Love as a pilot; and a few years later he mar
ried Love's daughter Dorcas.
"Zeigler & Grosscup, pp. 271-2-3.
"Bishop Asbury's diary shows that he was at Barnett's Station, November 4, 1802.
"Fifth Eth., 219, 220.
"Laws 1850-51, ch. 157. But there was a road of some kind, for Bishop Asbury
mentions crossing Cataloochee on a log in December, 1810. "But O the mountain —
height after height, and five miles over!"
¦"114 N. C. Rep., 909, and 115 N. C, 811. Also Laws 1895, ch. 169.
"Thwaite, 69.
"Fifth Eth., 181.
"Ibid."Ibid."Ibid., 181.
"Ibid., 168.
"Ibid. "Ibid., 168.
"154 N. C. Rep., 79.
"Nineteenth Eth., 214.
"Fifth Eth., 146.
"Ibid. "Ibid., 156-157.
"Ibid., 158-159, 169.
"Ibid., 219.
"Ibid., 253.
"Rev. St. N. C, Vol. Ill, 96-97.

CHAPTER III
COLONIAL DAYS
Though the mountains were not settled during colonial
days except north of the ridge between the Toe and Watauga
rivers, the people who ultimately crossed the Blue Ridge
lived under colonial laws and customs, or descended from
those pioneers who did. Therefore, colonial times in North
Carolina, especially in the Piedmont country, should be of
interest to those who would know how our more remote ances
tors lived under English rule. This should be especially
true of those venturesome spirits who first crossed the Blue
Ridge and explored the mountain regions of our State, what
ever may have been the object of their quest. For "when
the first Continental Congress began its sittings the only
frontiersmen west of the mountains and beyond the limits
of continuous settlement within the old thirteen colonies were
the two or three hundred citizens of the Little Watauga com
monwealth. 1 For they were a commonwealth in the truest
sense of the word, being beyond the jurisdiction of any gov
ernment except that of their own consciences. In these
circumstances they voluntarily formed the first republican
government in America. "The building of the Watauga
commonwealth by Robertson and Sevier gave a base of oper
ations and furnished a model for similar commonwealths to
follow."2 For the first written compact that, west of the mountains,
Was framed for the guidance of liberty's feet,
Was writ here by letterless men in whose bosoms,
Undaunted, the heart of a paladin beat.
Earl of Granville. There were eight Lords Proprietors
to whom Carolina was originally granted in 1663. Among
them was Sir George Carteret, afterwards Earl of Granville. 3
On the 3d of May, 1728, the king of England bought North
Carolina and thus ended the government of the Lords Pro
prietors. But he did not buy the interest of the Earl of Gran
ville, who refused to sell; though he had to give up his share
(60)

COLONIAL DAYS 61

in the government of the colony. Hence, grants from Earl
of Granville are as valid as those from the crown; for in 1743
his share was given him in land. It included about one-half
of the State, and he collected rents from it till 1776, his dis
honest agents giving the settlers on it great trouble.
Moravians. The Moravians were a band of religious
brethren who came to America to do mission work among
the Indians and to gain a full measure of religious freedom.
Their plan was to build a central town on a large estate and
to sell the land around to the members of the. brotherhood.
The town was to contain shops, mills, stores, factories, churches
and schools. After selecting several pieces of lowlands,
Bishop Spangenberg bought from the Earl of Granville a
large tract in the bounds of the present county of Forsyth,
and called the tract Wachovia, meaning "meadow stream."4
On November 17, 1753, a company of twelve men arrived at
Wachovia, and started what is now Salem. This Bishop
Spangenberg is spoken of in Hill's "Young People's History
of North Carolina" as Bishop Augustus G. Spangenberg;
while the Spangenberg whose diary is quoted from exten
sively in the next few pages signs himself I. Spangenberg.
He will be called the Bishop, nevertheless, because he "spake
as one having authority." 6
First to Cross the Blue Ridge. Vol. V, Colonial Rec
ords (pp. 1 to 14), contains the diary of I. Spangenberg, of the
Moravian church. He is the first white man who crossed
the Blue Ridge in North Carolina, so far as the records show,
except those who had prolonged the Virginia State line in
1749. He, with his co-religionist, Brother I. H. Antes, left
Edenton September 13, 1752, for the purpose of inspecting
and selecting land for settling Moravian immigrants. The
land was to have been granted by Earl Granville, and the
surveyor, Mr. Churton, who accompanied the expedition, had
instructions from that proprietor to survey the lands, and as
he was to be paid three pounds sterling for each 5,000-acre
tract, he was averse to surveying tracts of smaller acreage.
His instructions limited him also to north and south and east
and west lines, which frequently compelled the good Bishop
to include mountains in his boundaries that he did not par
ticularly desire. Having run three lines this surveyor declined
to run the fourth, and the Bishop notes that fact in order

62 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
to save his brethern the trouble of searching for lines that
were never run or marked. The surveyor, however, did sur
vey for the Bishop smaller tracts than those containing 5,000
acres, though reluctantly.
Quaker Meadows. In Judge Avery's "Historic Homes"
(N. C. Booklet, Vol. IV, No. 3) he refers to the fact that these
meadows were so called from the fact that a Quaker (Mora
vian) once camped there and traded for furs. This Quaker
was Bishop Spangenberg. He reached on November 12,
1752, the "neighborhood of what may be called Indian Pass.
The next settlement from here is that of Jonathan Weiss,
more familiarly known as Jonathan Perrot. This man is a
hunter and lives 20 miles from here. There are many hunters
about here, who live like Indians: they kill many deer, sell
ing their hides, and thus live without much work." On the
19th of November he reached Quaker Meadows, "fifty miles
from all settlements and found all we thought was required
for a settlement, very rich and fertile bottoms. . . . Our
survey begins seven or eight miles from the mouth of the 3d
river where it flows into the Catawba. What lies further
down the river has already been taken up. The other [west
ern] line of the survey runs close to the Blue Ridge. . . . This
piece consists of 6,000 acres. We can have at least eight set
tlements in this tract, and each will have water, range, etc.
... I calculate to every settlement eight couples of brethren
and sisters."
Buffalo Trails. There were no roads save those made
by buffaloes. The surveyor was stopped by six Cherokees on
a hunt, but they soon became friendly. November 24th they
were five miles from Table Rock, which with the Hawk's Bill
is so conspicuous from Morganton, where they surveyed the
fifth tract of land, of 700 or 800 acres.
Musical Wolves. "The wolves, which are not like those
in Germany, Poland and Lapland (because they fear men
and do not easily come near) give us such music of six differ
ent cornets, the like of which I have never heard in my life.
Several brethren, skilled in hunting, will be required to exter
minate panthers, wolves, etc. "
Old Indian Fields.6 On November 28th they were
camped in an old Indian field on the northeast branch of
Middle Little river of the Catawba, where they arrived on

COLONIAL DAYS 63

the 25th, and resolved to take up 2,000 acres of land lying
on two streams, both well adapted to mill purposes. That
the Indians once lived there was very evident — possibly be
fore the war which they waged with North Carolina — "from
the remains of an Indian fort: as also the tame grass which
was still growing about the old residences, and from the trees. "
On December 3d they camped on a river in another old Indian
field at the head of a branch of New river, "after passing
over frightful mountains and dangerous cliffs."
Where Men Had Seldom Trod. On the 29th they were
in camp on the second or middle fork of Little river, not far
from Quaker Meadows "in a locality that has probably been
but seldom trodden by the foot of man since the creation of
the world. For 70 or 80 miles we have been traveling over
terrible mountains and along very dangerous places where
there was no way at all." One might call the place in which
they were camped a basin or kettle, it being a cove in the
mountains, rich of soil, and where their horses found abun
dant pasture among the buffalo haunts and tame grass among
the springs. The wild pea-vines which formerly covered these
mountains, growing even under the forest trees most luxuri
antly for years after the whites came in, afforded fine pas
turage for their stock. It also formed a tangled mat on the
surface of the earth through which it was almost impossible
for men to pass. Hence, the pioneers were confined gener
ally to the Indian and buffalo trails already existing. These
pea-vines return even now whenever a piece of forest land is
fenced off a year or two.
On the Grandfather? It would seem that they had been
misled by a hunter whom they had taken along to show them
the way to the Yadkin; but had missed the way and on De
cember 3d came "into a region from which there was no out
let except by climbing up an indescribably steep mountain.
Part of the way we had to crawl on our hands and feet, and
sometimes we had to take the baggage and saddles from the
horses, and drag them up, while they trembled and quivered
like leaves. The next day we journeyed on: got into laurel
bushes and beaver dams and had to cut our way through the
bushes. Arrived at the top at last, we saw hundreds of
mountain peaks all around us, presenting a spectacle like
ocean waves in a storm." The descent on the western side

64 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
was "neither so steep, nor as deep as before, and then we
came to a stream of water, but no pasture. . . . The next
day we got into laurel bushes and beaver dams and had to
cut our way through the bushes. ..."
Wandering Bewildered in Unknown Ways. "Then we
changed our course — left the river and went up the mountain,
where the Lord brought us to a delicious spring, and good
pasturage on a chestnut ridge. . . . The next day we came
to a creek so full of rocks that we could not possible cross it;
and on both sides were such precipitous banks that scarcely
a man, certainly no horse could climb them . . . but our
horses had nothing — absolutely nothing. . . . Directly came
a hunter who had climbed a mountain and had seen a large
meadow. Thereupon, we scrambled down . . . and came
before night into a large plain. . . .
Caught in a Mountain Snowstorm. "We pitched our
tent, but scarcely had we finished when such a fierce wind
storm burst upon us that we could scarcely protect ourselves
against it. I cannot remember that I have ever in winter
anywhere encountered so hard or so cold a wind. The ground
was soon covered with snow ankle deep, and the water froze
for us aside the fire. Our people became thoroughly dis
heartened. Our horses would certainly perish and we with
them." In Goshen's Land. "The next day we had fine sunshine,
and then warmer days, though the nights were 'horribly' cold.
Then we went to examine the land. A large, part of it is al
ready cleared, and there long grass abounds, and this is all
bottom. Three creeks flow together here and make a con
siderable river, which flows into the Mississippi according to
the best knowledge of our hunters." There were countless
springs but no reeds, but "so much grass land that Brother
Antes thinks a man could make several hundred loads of hay
of the wild grass. . . . There is land here suitable for wheat,
corn, oats, barley, hemp, etc. Some of the land will prob
ably be flooded when there is high water. There is a mag
nificent chestnut and pine forest near here. Whetstones and
millstones which Brother Antes regards the best he has seen
in North Carolina are plenty. The soil is here mostly lime
stone and of a cold nature. . . . We surveyed this land and
took up 5,400 acres. . . . We have a good many mountains,

COLONIAL DAYS 65

but they are very fertile and admit of cultivation. Some of
them are already covered with wood, and are easily acces
sible. Many hundred — yes, thousand crab-apple trees grow
here, which may be useful for vinegar. One of the creeks
presents a number of admirable seats for milling purposes.
This survey is about 15 miles from the Virginia line, as we
saw the Meadow mountain, and I judged it to be about 20
miles distant. This mountain lies five miles from the line
between Virginia and North Carolina. In all probability this
tract would make an admirable settlement for Christian In
dians, like Grandenhutten in Pennsylvania. There is wood,
mast, wild game, fish and a free range for hunting, and admir
able land for corn, potatoes, etc. For stock raising it is also
incomparable. Meadow land and pasture in abundance."
After "a bitter journey among the mountains where we were
virtually lost and whichever way we turned we were literally
walled in on all sides," they came on December 14, 1752,
to the head of Yadkin river, after having abandoned all
streams and paths, and followed a course east and south, and
"scrambling across the mountains as well as we could."
Here a hunter named Owen, "of Welch stock, invited us
into his house and treated us very kindly." He lived near
the Mulberry Fields which had been taken up by Morgan
Bryant, but were uninhabited. The nearest house was 60
miles distant.
The First Hunters. The hunters who assisted the Bishop
in finding the different bodies of suitable land were Henry
Day, who lived in Granville, John Perkins, who lived on the
Catawba, "and is known as Andrew Lambert, a well-known
Scotchman," and Jno. Rhode, who "lives about 20 miles
from Capt. Sennit on the Yadkin road." John Perkins was
especially commended to the Brethren as "a diligent and true
worthy man, and a friend to the Brethren." The late Judge
A. C. Avery said he was called "Gentleman John," and that
Johns river in Burke was named for him. 7
Settlers from Pennsylvania. "Many of the immi
grants were sent to Pennsylvania, and they had traveled as
far west as Pittsburg early in the 18th century. The Indians
west of the Alleghanies were, however, fiercer than any the
Quakers had met; but to the southwest for several hundred
miles the Appalachians "run in parallel ranges . . . through
W. N. C.  5

66 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA

Virginia, West Virginia, the Carolinas and East Tennessee
. . . " and through these "long, deep troughs between these
ranges . . . Pennsylvanians freely wandered into the South
and Southwest ..." and "between the years 1732 and 1750,
numerous groups of Pennsylvanians — Germans and Irish large
ly, with many Quakers among them — had been . . . grad
ually pushing forward the line of settlement, until now it had
reached the upper waters of the Yadkin river, in the north
west corner of North Carolina."8 "Thus was the wilder
ness tamed by a steady stream of immigration from the older
lands of the northern colonies, while not a few penetrated
to this Arcadia through the passes of the Blue Ridge, from
eastern Virginia and the Carolinas. " 9
Nick-a-Jack's Cave. Almost the first difficulties those
who first crossed the mountains encountered was from the
depredations of renegade Indians and desperate white men
defiant of law and order. There was at this time (1777-78)
a body of free-booters, composed of "adventurous and unruly
members from almost all the western tribes — Cherokees,
Creeks, Chickasaws, Choctaws, and Indians from the Ohio,
generally known as Chickamaugas. Many Tories and white
refugees from border justice joined them and shared in their
misdeeds. Their shifting villages stretched from Chicka-
mauga creek to Running Water. Between these places the
Tennessee twists down through the somber gorges by which
the chains of the Cumberland range are riven in sunder.
Some miles below Chickamauga creek, near Chattanooga,
Lookout mountain towers aloft into the clouds; at its base
the river bends round Moccasin Point, and then rushes through
a gap between Walden's Ridge and the Raccoon Hills. Then,
for several miles, it foams through the winding Narrows
between jutting cliffs and sheer rock walls, while in its boulder-
strewn bed the swift torrent is churned into whirlpools, cata
racts, and rapids. Near the Great Crossing, where the war
parties and hunting parties were ferried over the river, lies
Nick-a-jack's cave, a vast cavern in the mountain-side. Out
of it flows a stream up which a canoe can paddle two or three
miles into the heart of the mountain. In these high fastnesses,
inaccessible ravines, and gloomy caverns the Chickamaugas
built their towns, and to them they retired with their prisoners
and booty after every raid on the settlements."

COLONIAL DAYS 67

French and Indian War Land Warrants. 1 ° The Chick
amaugas lived on Chickamauga creek and in the moun
tains about where Chattanooga now stands; they were kins
men of the Cherokees. In 1748 Dr. Thomas Walker and a
party of hunters came from Virginia into Powell's Valley,
crossing the mountains at Cumberland gap, and named it
and the river in honor of the Duke of Cumberland, Prime
Minister of England. In 1756-7 the English built Fort Lou
don, 30 miles from Knoxville, as the French were trying to
get the Cherokees to make war on the North Carolina set
tlers. After the treaty of peace between France and England
in 1763 many hunters poured over the mountains into Ten
nessee; though George III had ordered his governors not to
allow whites to trespass on Indian lands west of the moun
tains, and if any white man did buy Indian lands and and the
Indians moved away the land should belong to the king.
He appointed Indian commissioners; but the whites persisted,
some remaining a year or more to hunt and were called Long
Hunters. Land warrants had been issued to officers and
soldiers who had fought in the French and Indian wars and
those issued by North Carolina wanted to settle in what is
now Tennessee. The Iroquois complained that whites were
killing their stock and taking their lands, and at a great Indian
council at Fort Stanwix, at Rome, N. Y., the northern tribes
gave England title to all their lands between the Ohio and
Tennessee rivers in 1767. But the Indian commissioners for
the southern tribes called a council at Hard Labor, S. C, and
bought title to the same land from the Cherokees. These
treaties were finished in 1768. William Bean in 1769 was
living in a log cabin where Boone's creek joins the Watauga.
In 1771 Parker and Carter set up a store at Rogersville, and
people from Abingdon (called Wolf's Hill) followed, and
the settlement was called the Carter's Valley settlement.
In 1772 Jacob Brown opened a store on the NoUechucky river,
and pioneers settling around, it was called NoUechucky set
tlement. Shortly before Bean had settled the Cherokees had
attacked the Chickasaws and been defeated, and the settlers
got a ten years' lease from Indians for lands they claimed.
In May 1771, at Alamance, Tryon had defeated the Regula
tors and many of them had moved to Tennessee. Most
settlers in Tennessee thought they were in Virginia, but either

68 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA

Richmond or Raleigh was too far off, so they formed the
Watauga Association in 1772 and a committee of 13 elected
five commissioners to settle disputes, etc., with judicial powers
and some executive duties also. It was a free government
by the consent of every individual. When the Revolution
ary War began Watauga Association named their country
Washington District and voted themselves indebted to the
United Colonies for their share of the expenses of the war.
The Watauga Settlement and Indian Wars. This
caused the British government to attempt the destruction
of these settlements by inciting the Cherokees to make war
upon them. Alexander Cameron was the Indian commis
sioner for the British and he furnished the Indians with guns
and ammunition for that purpose; but in the spring of 1776,
Nancy Ward, a friendly Indian woman, told the white settlers
that 700 Cherokee warriors intended to attack the settlers.
They did so, but were defeated at Heaton's Station and at
Watauga Fort. In these battles the settlers were aided by
Virginia. James Robertson and John Sevier were leaders
in these times. It was after this that Virginia and North
Carolina and South Carolina sent soldiers into the Cherokee
country of North Carolina for the extermination of the sav
age Cherokees. J 1 In August 1776 the Watauga Settlement
asked to be annexed by North Carolina, 113 men signing
the petition, all of whom signed their names except two, who
made their marks. There seems to be no record of any formal
annexation; but in November, 1776, the Provisional Congress
of North Carolina met at Halifax and among the delegates
present were John Carter, John Sevier, Charles Robertson
and John Haile from the Washington District. It is, there
fore, safe to conclude that Watauga had been annexed, for
these men helped to frame the first free constitution of the
State of North Carolina. But this Watauga Association
seems to have continued its independent government until
February, 1778; for in 1777 (November) Washington Dis
trict became Washington county with boundaries cotermi
nous with those of the present State of Tennessee. Magis
trates or justices of the peace took the oath of office in Feb
ruary, 1778, when the entire county began to be governed
under the laws of North Carolina. Thus, the Watauga Asso
ciation was the germ of the State of Tennessee, and although

COLONIAL DAYS 69

there is on a tree near Boone's creek an inscription indicating
that Daniel Boone killed a bear there in 1760, William Bean
appears to have been the first permanent settler of that sec
tion. Indeed, this author states that Col. Richard Hender
son, of North Carolina, induced Boone to make his first visit
to Kentucky in the spring of 1769, and that James Robertson,
afterwards "The Father of Middle Tennessee, " accompanied
him; but stopped on the Wautaga with William Bean and
raised a crop, removing his family from Wake county in 1770
or 1771.
Forts Loudon and Dobbs. Fort Loudon was on the Little
Tennessee. It was attacked and besieged by the Indians,
and surrendered August 9, 1760, after Indian women had
kept the garrison in food a long time in defiance of their own
tribesmen. 1 2 In 1756 Fort Dobbs was constructed a short
distance south of the South Fork of the Yadkin. 1 3 For
the first few years Fort Dobbs was not much used, * 4 the
Catawbas being friendly; but in 1759 the Yadkin and Ca
tawba valleys were raided by the Cherokees, with the usual
results of ruined crops, burned farm buildings, and murdered
households. The Catawbas, meanwhile, remained faithful
to their white friends. Until this outbreak the Carolinas had
greatly prospered; but after it most of the Yadkin families,
with the English fur-traders, huddled within the walls of
Fort Dobbs, but many others fled to settlements nearer the
Atlantic. 1 6 In the early winter of 1760 the governors of
Virginia and North and South Carolina agreed upon a joint
campaign against the hostiles, and attacked the Cherokee
towns on the Little Tennessee in the summer of 1760, com
pletely crushing the Indians and sent 5,000 men, women and
children into the hills to starve. 1 6 With the opening of 1762
the southwest border began to be reoccupied, and the aban
doned log cabins again had fires lighted upon their hearths,
the deserted clearings were again cultivated, and the pursuits
of peace renewed. x 7
Remains of Fort Loudon. In June, 1913, Col. J. Fain
Anderson, a noted historian of Washington College, Tenn.,
visited Fort Loudon, and found the outline of the ditches and
breastworks still visible. The old well was walled up, but
the wall has fallen in. He says there were twelve small iron
cannon in this fort in 1756, all of which had been "packed

70 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
over the mountains on horses, " and that a Mr. Steele who
lives at McGee's Station — the nearest railroad station to
the old fort — has a piece of one of them which his father
ploughed up over forty years ago. The land on which the
fort stood now belongs to James Anderson, a relative of J. F.
Anderson, near the mouth of Tellico creek. But no tablet
marks the site of this first outpost of our pioneer ancestors.
Westward the Course of Empire Takes Its Way.
From Judge A. C. Avery's "Historic Homes of North Caro
lina" (N. C. Booklet, Vol. iv, No. 3) we get a glimpse of the
slow approach of the whites of the Blue Ridge : "According
to tradition the Quaker Meadows farm near Morganton was
so called long before the McDowells or any other whites
established homes in Burke county, and derived its name
from the fact that the Indians, after clearing parts of the
broad and fertile bottoms, had suffered the wild grass to
spring up and form a large meadow, near which a Quaker
had camped before the French and Indian War, and traded
for furs." This was none other than Bishop I. Spangenberg,
the Moravian, who, on the 19th of November, 1752, (Vol. v,
Colonial Records, p. 6) records in his diary that he was en
camped near Quaker Meadows "in the forest 50 miles from
any settlement."
The McDowell Family. Judge Avery goes on to give
some account of the McDowells : Ephraim McDowell, the
first of the name in this country, having emigrated from the
north of Ireland, when at the age of 62, accompanied by two
sons, settled at the old McDowell home in Rockbridge coun
ty, Virginia. His grandson Joseph and his grandnephew
"Hunting John" moved South about 1760, but owing to the
French and Indian War went to the northern border of South
Carolina, where their sturdy Scotch-Irish friends had already
named three counties of the State, York, Chester and Lancas
ter. One reason for the late settlement of these Piedmont
regions was because the English land agents dumped the
Scotch-Irish and German immigrants in Pennsylvania, from
which State some moved as soon as possible to the unclaimed
lands of the South.
"Hunting John" and His Sporting Friends. "But as
soon as the French and Indian war permitted the McDow
ells removed to Burke. 'Hunting John' was so called be-

COLONIAL DAYS 71

cause of his venturing into the wilderness in pursuit of
game, and was probably the first to live at his beautiful home,
Pleasant Gardens, in the Catawba Valley, in what is now
McDowell county. About this time also his cousin Joseph set
tled at Quaker Meadows; though 'Hunting John' first en
tered Swan Ponds, about three miles above Quaker Meadows,
but afterwards sold it, without having occupied it, to Waight-
still Avery. . . . The McDowells and Carsons of that day
and later reared thorough-bred horses, and made race-paths
in the broad lowlands of every large farm. They were su
perb horsemen, crack shots and trained hunters. John
McDowell of Pleasant Gardens was a Nimrod when he lived in
Virginia, and we learn from tradition that he acted as guide
for his cousins over the hunting grounds when, at the risk of
their lives, they, with their kinsmen, James Greenlee and
Captain Bowman, [who fell at Ramseur's Mill in the Revo
lutionary War] traveled over and inspected the valley of the
Catawba from Morganton to Old Fort, and selected the large
domain allotted to each of them."
Log-Cabin Ladies' Whims. "They built and occupied
strings of cabins, because the few plank or boards used by
them were sawed by hand and the nails driven into them
were shaped in a blacksmith's shop. I have seen many old
buildings, such as the old houses at Fort Defiance, the Lenoir
house and Swan Ponds, where every plank was fastened by
a wrought nail with a large round head — sometimes half an
inch in diameter. From these houses the lordly old propri
etors could in half an hour go to the water or the woods and
provide fish, deer or turkeys to meet the whim of the lady
of the house. They combined the pleasure of sport with the
profit of providing their tables. . . . 'Hunting John' prob
ably died in 1775. "
Living Without Law or Gospel? William Byrd, the Vir
ginia commissioner who helped to run the boundary between
North Carolina and Virginia in 1728, wrote to Governor Bar-
rington, July 20, 1731, 18that it "must be owned that North
Carolina is a very happy country where people may live with
the least labor that they can in any part of the world, " and
"are accustomed to live without law or gospel, and will with
great reluctance submit to either." This is still true of North
Carolina, except the statement — which was never true — that

72 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
we were accustomed to live without law or gospel in 1731 ; for
when this identical gentleman was seeking to get paid for his
services as a commissioner to run the boundary line in 1728,
he wrote the Board of Trade that the Reverend Peter Foun
tain, the chaplain of that survey "christened over 100 chil
dren among the settlers along the line in North Carolina."
A "Bird" Who Spelt His Name Improperly. In spite
of his animadversions upon the pioneer settlers of the eastern
part of our State, we must always incline to forgive Col. Wil
liam Byrd of Westover after reading his piquant and learned
disquisitions upon many matters in the "Dividing Line." He
must truly have been what we of more modern times call a
"Bird," although he spelt his name with a y.
Where Every Day was Sunday. 1 9 Following are Col.
Byrd's Pictures of Colonial Days: "Our Chaplain, for his
Part, did his Office, and rubb'd us up with a Seasonable Ser
mon. This was quite a new Thing to our Brethren of North
Carolina, who live in a climate where no clergyman can Breathe
any more than Spiders in Ireland. For want of men in Holy Or
ders, both the Members of the Council and Justices of the Peace
are empowered by the Laws of that Country to marry all
those who will not take One another's Word; but for the
ceremony of Christening their children, they trust that to
chance. If a parson come in their way, they will crave a
Cast of his office, as they call it, else they are content their
Offspring should remain Arrant Pagans as themselves. They
account it among their greatest advantages that they are
not Priest-ridden, not remembering that the Clergy is rarely
guilty of Bestriding such as have the misfortune to be poor.
. . . One thing may be said for the Inhabitants of that Pro
vince, that they are not troubled with any Religious Fumes,
and have the least Superstition of any People living. They
do not know Sunday from any other day, any more than
Robinson Crusoe did, which would give them a great Advan
tage were they given to be industrious. But they keep so
many Sabbaths every week, that their disregard of the Seventh
Day has no manner of cruelty in it, either to servants or
cattle." Nymph Echo in the Dismal Swamp. 2 ° Once, when sep
arated from their companions, Col. Byrd "ordered Guns to
be fired and a drum to be beaten, but received no Answer,

COLONIAL DAYS 73

unless it was from that prating Nymph Echo, who, like a
loquacious Wife, will always have the last word, and Some
times return three for one. "
They Brought no Capons for the Parson. 2 1 Some of
the people were apprehensive that the survey would throw
their homes into Virginia. "In that case they must have sub
mitted to some Sort of Order and Government; whereas, in
North Carolina, every One does what seems best in his own
Eyes. There were some good Women that brought their
children to be Baptiz'd, but brought no Capons along with
them to make the solemnity cheerful. In the meantime it
was Strange that none came to be marry' d in such a Multi
tude, if it had only been for the Novelty of having their Hands
Joyn'd by one in Holy Orders. Yet so it was, that tho' our
chaplain Christen'd above an Hundred, he did not marry so
much as one Couple during the whole Expedition. But
marriage is reckon'd a Lay contract, as I said before, and a
Country Justice can tie the fatal Knot there, as fast as an Arch
bishop." Gentlemen Smell Liquor Thirty Miles.22 "We had
several Visitors from Edenton [who] . . . having good Noses,
had smelt out, at 30 Miles Distance, the Precious Liquor,
with which the Liberality of our good Friend Mr. Mead had
just before supply'd us. That generous Person had judg'd
very right, that we were now got out of the Latitude of Drink
proper for men in Affliction, and therefore was so good as to
send his Cart loaden with all sorts of refreshments, for which
the Commissioners return' d Him their Thanks, and the Chap
lain His Blessing."
Getting up an Appetite for Dog.23 "The Surveyors
and their Attendants began now in good earnest to be alarm
ed with Apprehensions of Famine, nor could they forbear look
ing with Some Sort of Appetite upon a dog that had been the
faithful Companion of their Travels."
Poverty with Contentment. 2 4 The following is Col.
Byrd's idea of some of our people who lived near Edenton in
1728: "Surely there is no place in the world where the Inhabitants live with
less labor than in North Carolina? It approaches nearer to the descrip
tion of Lubberland than any other, by the great felicity of the Climate,
the easiness of raising provisions, and the Slothf ulness of the People. . . .

74 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
The Men, for their Parts, just like the Indians, impose all the Work upon
the poor Women. They make their Wives rise out of their Beds early
in the morning, at the same time that they lye and Snore, till the sun
has run one third his course, and disperst all the unwholesome damps.
Then, after Stretching and Yawning for half an Hour, they hght their
Pipes, and, under the Protection of a cloud of Smoak, venture out into
the open Air; tho', if it happens to be never so httle cold they quickly
return Shivering into the Chimney corner. When the weather is mild, they
stand leaning with both their arms upon the corn-field fence, and gravely
consider whether they had best go and take a Small Heat at the Hough;
but generally find reasons to put it off till another time. Thus they
loiter away their lives, like Solomon's Sluggard, with their arms across,
and at the Winding up of the Year Scarcely have Bread to Eat. To
speak the truth, 'tis aversion to Labor that makes People file off to N.
Carolina, where Plenty and a warm Sun confirm them in their disposition
to Laziness for their whole Lives."
Our Commissioner Treats the Parson to a Fricassee
of Rum. 2 5 The chaplain went once to Edenton, accompanied
by Mr. Little, one of the North Carolina commissioners,
"who to shew his regard for the Church, offer'd to treat Him
on the Road with a fricassee of Rum. They fry'd half a Doz
en Rashers of very fat Bacon in a Pint of Rum, both of which
being disht up together, served the Company at once for
meat and Drink. "
The Democracy of the Colonists.26 "They are rarely
guilty of Flattering or making any Court to their governors,
but treat them with all the Excesses of Freedom and Famil
iarity. They are of opinion their rulers wou'd be apt to
grow insolent, if they grew Rich, and for that reason take
care to keep them poorer, and more dependent, if possible
than the Saints in New England used to do their Governors. "
The Men of Alamance. Meantime the exactions of
the British tax collectors had brought on the Regulators
War, and the battle of Alamance in May, 1771, resulted
in the departure of a "company of fourteen families" from
"the present county of Wake to make new homes across the
mountains. 2 7 The men led the way and often had to clear
a road with their axes. Behind the axmen went a mixed
procession of women, children, dogs, cows and pack-horses
loaded with kettles and beds." These settled in Tennessee
on the Watauga river. James Robertson, "a cool, brave,
sweet-natured man was the leader of the company." Then
came John Sevier and many others. In the language of the

COLONIAL DAYS 75

Hon. George Bancroft, historian and at that time minister
to England, "it is a mistake if anyone have supposed that
the Regulators were cowed down by their defeat at Alamance.
Like the mammoth, they took the bolt from their brow and
crossed the mountains." Of them and those who followed
them, Hon. John Allison in his "Dropped Stitches of Ten
nessee History" (p. 37) says:
"The people who made it possible for Tennessee to have a centennial
were a wonderful people. Within a period of about fifteen years they
were engaged in three revolutions; participated in organizing and lived
under five different governments; established and administered the first
free and independent government in America, founded the first church
and the first college in the Southwest; put in operation the second
newspaper in the 'New World West of the Alleghanies'; met and
fought the British in half a dozen battles, from Kings Mountain to the
gates of Charleston, gaining a victory in every battle; held in check,
beat back and finally expelled from the country four of the most power
ful tribes of Indian warriors in America; and left Tennesseans their fame
as a heritage, and a commonwealth of which it is their privilege to be
proud." The Freest of the Free. The historian, George Ban
croft, exclaims : ' 'Are there any who doubt man's capacity
for self-government? Let them study the history of North
Carolina. Its inhabitants were restless and turbulent in their
imperfect submission to a government imposed from abroad;
the administration of the colony was firm, humane and tran
quil when they were left to take care of themselves. Any
government but one of their own institution was oppres
sive. North Carolina was settled by the freest of the free. " 2 8
The First Public Declaration of Independence. This
was made at Halifax, N. C, by the Provisional Congress,
April 12, 1776, when its delegates to the Continental Con
gress were authorized to concur with other delegates in
"declaring independence and forming foreign alliances,"
reserving the right of forming a constitution and laws for
North Carolina.
The Scotch-Irish; Their Origin and Religion. 29 "Men
will not be fully able to understand Carolina till they have
opened the treasures of history and drawn forth some few
particulars respecting the origin and religious habits of the
Scotch-Irish and become familiar with their doings previous
to the Revolution— during that painful struggle — and the

76 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
succeeding years of prosperity; and Carolina will be respected
as she is knwon. "
In Pioneer Days. 3 ° The men and boys wore moccasins,
short pantaloons and leather leggings, hunting shirts, which
were usually of dressed deerskin, cut like the modern shirt, open
the entire length in front and fastened by a belt. In this
belt were carried a small hatchet and a long, sharp hunting
knife. They wore caps of mink or coon skin, with the tail
hanging behind for a tassel. The rifles were long, muzzle-
loading, flint-locks, and in a pouch hung over one shoulder
were carried gun-wipers, tow, patching, bullets, and flints,
while fastened to the strap was a horn for powder. The
women and girls wore sun bonnets, as a rule, and had little
time to spend on tucks and ruffles. There was no place at
which to buy things except the stores of Indian traders, and
they had very few things white people wanted. . . . The
pioneer moved into a new country on foot or on horse back
and brought his household goods on pack horses. They were
about as follows : The family clothing, some blankets and a
few other bed clothes, with bed ticks to be filled with grass
or hair, a large pot, a pair of pothooks, an oven with lid, a
skillet, and a frying pan, a hand mill to grind grain, a wooden
trencher in which to make bread, a few pewter plates, spoons,
and other dishes, some axes and hoes, the iron parts of plows,
a broadax, a froe, a saw and an auger. Added to these were
supplies of- seed for field and vegetable crops, and a few fruit
trees. When their destination was reached the men and boys
cut trees and built a log house, split boards with the froe and
made a roof which was held on by weight poles, no nails be
ing available. Puncheons were made by splitting logs and
hewing the flat sides smooth for floors and door shutters.
Some chimneys were made of split sticks covered on the in
side with a heavy coating of clay; but usually stones were
used for this purpose, as they were plentiful. The spaces
between the log walls were filled in by mortar, called chinks
and dobbin. Rough bedsteads were fixed in the corners of
the rooms farthest from the fire place, and rude tables and
benches were constructed, with three-legged stools as seats.
Pegs were driven into the walls, and on the horns of bucks
the rifle was usually suspended above the door. Windows
were few and unglazed. Then foUowed the spinning wheel,

COLONIAL DAYS 77

the reel, and the hand loom. Cards for wool had to be
bought. The horses and cattle were turned into the woods
to eat grass in summer and cane in winter, being enticed
home at night by a small bait of salt or grain. The small
trees and bushes were cut and their roots grubbed up, while
the larger trees were girdled and left to die and become leaf
less. Rails were made and the clearing fenced in, the brush
was piled and burnt, and the land was plowed and planted.
After the first crop the settler usually had plenty, for his land
was new and rich. Indeed, the older farmers of this region
were so accustomed to clearing a "new patch" when the first
was worn out, instead of restoring the old land by modern
methods, that even at this time they know little or nothing
of reclaiming exhausted land. Cooking was done on the open
hearths by the women who dressed the skins of wild animals
and brought water from the spring in rude pails, milked the
cows, cut firewood, spun, wove, knit, washed the clothing,
and tended the bees, chickens and gardens. When the men
and boys were not at work in the fields they were hunting
for game. After the first settlement time was found for cut
ting down the larger trees for fields, and the logs were rolled
together by the help of neighbors and burned. The first rude
cabin home was turned into a stable or barn and a larger and
better log house constructed. When the logs had been hewed
and notched neighbors were invited to help in raising the
walls. The log-rollings and house-raisings were occasions for
large dinners, some drinking of brandy and whiskey, games
and sports of various kinds. There were no schools and no
churches at first, and no wagon roads; but all these things
followed slowly.
Other Early Explorers. In the case of Avery v. Walker,
(8 N. C, p. 117) it appears that Col. James Hubbard and
Captain John Hill had "been members of Col. George Do-
horty's party" and explored "the section of country around
Bryson City, Swain county, shortly before April 22, 1795";
that Col. John Patton, the father of Lorenzo and Montreville
Patton of Buncombe, and who owned the meadow land on
the Swannanoa river which was sold to George W. Vander-
bilt by Preston Patton, and the "haunted house" at the ford
of that river, when the stage road left South Main street at
what is now Victoria Road and crossed the Swannanoa, there,

78 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
instead of at Biltmore, was then county surveyor of Bun
combe, and refused to survey land on Ocona Lufty for Waight-
still Avery because it was "on the frontier and the Indian
boundary had not then actually been run out, and it might
be dangerous to survey near the line." Also that Dohorty's
party had a battle with the Indians at the mouth of Soco
creek, and that what is now Bryson city was then called Big
Bear's village. In Eu-Che-Lah v. Welch (10 N. C, p. 158)
will be found an exhaustive study of the laws of Great Britain
in colonial days regarding the granting of Indian lands and of
the various treaties made by the State with the Cherokee In
dians since July 4, 1776. NOTES.
'Roosevelt, Vol. Ill, 276 to 280.
2Ibid.3Hill, pp. 32, 116.
<Ibid., p. 121
'Ibid., pp. 89, 90, 116.
6There were other Old Fields, doubtless made by Indians years before Americawas
discovered, at the mouth of Gap creek in Ashe; at Valle Crucis in Watauga, at Old Fields
of Toe in Avery, at "The Meadows" in Graham, and at numerous other level places.
'There is a family of Perkinses living at Old Field now, 1912, the descendants of Luther
Perkins. "Thwaites, p. 14.
»Ibid., p. 15, and Col. Rec, Vol. IV, p. 1073.
10From R. G. McGee's "A History of Tennessee."
nlbid."Thwaites, pp. 46-47.
"Ibid., p. 37.
"Ibid., p. 41.
"Ibid., p. 42.
i«Ibid., p. 48.
I'Ibid., p. 59.
18Col. Rec, Vol. Ill, pp. xii and 194. Thwaite also says: " There was for a long time
neither law nor gospel, upon this far-away frontier. Justices of the Peace had small
authority. Preachers were at first unknown." "Daniel Boone," p. 33.
IBByrd, 60-61.
2»Ibid., 62.
"Ibid, 63.
"Ibid."Ibid., 66-67.
"Ibid., 75-76.
"Ibid., 76.
2«Ibid., 80-81.
"McGee, p. 214.
28Asheville's Centenary.
2 'Foote's Sketches, p. 83.
""Condensed from G. R. McGee's "A History of Tennessee."

CHAPTER IV
DANIEL BOONE
Just as seven cities contended for the honor of having been
the birthplace of Homer; so, too, many states are proud to
boast that Boone once lived within their borders. But North
Carolina was the home of his boyhood, his young manhood
and the State in which he chose his wife. From his home at
Holman's Ford he passed to his cabin in the village of Boone
on frequent occasions, making hunting trips from that point
into the surrounding mountains. From there, too, he started
on his trips into Kentucky.
From an address read by Miss Esther Ransom, daughter
of the late U. S. Senator Matt. W. Ransom, to Thomas Polk
Chapter, D. A. R., the following is copied :
"It has been argued that Boone did not fight in the Revolutionary
war. This is true. He was too busy fighting Indians in Kentucky, the
'dark and bloody ground.' Let me impress it upon you that but for Boone
and Clark and Denton and the other Indian fighters there wouldn't have
been any Revolutionary war; no Kings Mountain, no Guilford Court
House, no Yorktown. The Indians were natural allies of the British.
British money supplied them with arms and ammunition and King George
III was constantly inciting them through his officers, to murder and
destroy the Patriots.
"Just suppose for a moment if, at Kings Mountain where the moun
tain men surrendered Ferguson they, in their turn, had been surrounded
by five hundred or a thousand Indians. The day would have ended in
dire disaster and it would have taken another Caesar to have rescued the
Patriots from that terrible predicament.
"Daniel Boone did as much or more service for our country in fight
ing Indians and keeping them back as if he had served in the war with
Washington and Green.
"Like Washington, Boone was a surveyor. He surveyed nearly all
the land in Kentucky. He was a law maker. He passed a law for the
protection of game in Kentucky and also one for keeping up the breed
of fine horses.
"Roosevelt in his vigorous Enghsh calls him ' Road-Builder, town-maker
and Commonwealth founder,' and when Kentucky had representation
in Virignia, Boone sat in the house of commons as a Burgess.
"He might be styled the 'Nimrod' of the United States, for truly 'He
was a mighty hunter before the Lord.'"
(79)

80 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
John Finley. Finley was the Scotch-Irishman who had
descended the Ohio river as far as Louisville in 1752; and
who, after Boone's return from his trip to the Big Sandy in
1767, turned up at Boone's cabin at Holman's Ford in the
winter of 1768-69. 1 He had suggested when on the Brad-
dock expedition that Boone might reach Kentucky "by fol
lowing the trail of the buffaloes and the Shawnese, northwest
ward through Cumberland gap."2 "Scaling the lofty Blue
Ridge, the explorers passed over Stone and Iron mountains
and reached Holston Valley, whence they proceeded through
Moccasin gap of Clinch mountain and crossed over interven
ing rivers and densely wooded hills until they came to Powell's
Valley, then the furthest limits of white settlement. Here
they found a hunters' trail which led them through Cumber
land gap. " 3 If they did this by the easiest and shortest route,
they passed up the Shawnee trail on the ridge between Elk
and Stony forks through Cooks gap, down by Three Forks
of New river, through what is now Boone village and Hodges
gap, across the Grave Yard gap down to Dog Skin creek,
following the base of Rich mountain to State Line gap be
tween Zionville and Trade to the head of Roan creek to the
crossing of the two Indian trails at what is now Shoun's Cross
Roads, and thence over the Iron mountains. Any other route
would have been deliberately to go wrong for the sake of
doing so. From any eminence that route seemed to have
been marked out by nature.
Benjamin Cutbirth. This name was pronounced Cut-
baird according to the recollection of Cyrus Grubb, a prom
inent citizen of Watauga, and Benjamin Cuthbirth's name
appears on the records of Ashe county as having conveyed
100 acres of land on the South Fork of New river to Andrew
Ferguson in 1800. This is the same "Scotch-Irishman" who
had married Elizabeth Wilcoxen, a neice of Daniel Boone, at
the close of the French and Indian war, and when he was
about twenty-three years old. In 1767 he and John Stuart,
John Baker and John Ward, crossed the mountains and went
to the Mississippi river, where they spent a year or two, go
ing even to New Orleans. 4
Holman's Ford. About this time Daniel Boone moved
sixty-five miles west from the Yadkin settlement near Dutch-

DANIEL BOONE 81

man's creek, "choosing his final home on the upper Yadkin,
just above the mouth of Beaver creek. 5 Col. James M. Is-
bell's grantfather, Martin, told him that Daniel Boone used
to live six miles below James M. Isbell's present home near
the bank of the Yadkin river, on a little creek now known as
Beaver creek, one mile from where it flows into the Yadkin
river, near Holman's ford. The Boone house was in a little
swamp and canebrake surrounding the point of a ridge, with
but one approach — that by the ridge. The swamp was in
the shape of a horse-shoe, with the point of the ridge pro
jecting into it. The foundations of the chimney are still
there, and the cabin itself has not been gone more than 52
years. Alfred Foster who owned the land showed Col. Isbell
the cabin, which was still there during his boyhood, and he
remembered how it looked. His grandmother, the wife of
Benjamin Howard, knew Boone well as he often stayed with
her father, Benjamin Howard, at the mouth of Elk creek,
now Elkville. 6
Boone's Trip to Kentucky. There is no evidence except
the inscription on the leaning beech at Boone's creek, nine
miles north of Jonesboro, Tenn., that Boone was at that spot
in 1760. Thwaite's life of Boone, compiled from the Draper
manuscript in the Wisconsin State library, says that in the
spring of 1759, Boone and two of his sons went to Culpepper
county, Virginia, where he was employed in hauling tobacco
to Fredericksburg, and that he was again a member of Hugh
Waddell's regiment of 500 North Carolinians, when, in 1761,
they fought and defeated the Cherokees at Long Island on
the Holston. He cites the inscription but gives no other
facts.7 As 1769 is generally considered the date of his first
trip across the mountains, it becomes important to state that
Thwaite (p. 69) says that, in 1767, Boone's brother-in-law,
John Stewart, and Benjamin Cutbirth, who had married
Boone's niece, and several others, went west as far as the
Mississippi, crossing the mountains and returning before
1769; and that Boone himself, and William Hall, his friend,
and, possibly, Squire Boone, Daniel's brother, in the fall of
1767, still desiring to get to Kentucky — of which he had been
told by John Finley, whom he had met in the Braddock expe
dition — crossed the mountains into the valleys of the Hol-
W. N. C  6

82 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
ston, and the Clinch, and reached the headwaters of the west
fork of the Big Sandy, returning to Holman's Ford in the
spring of 1768.
Colonel James M. Isbell. According to the statement
made by this gentleman, in May, 1909, Benjamin Howard,
his grandfather, owned land near the village of Boone, and
used to range his stock in the mountains surrounding that
picturesque village. He built a cabin of logs in front of what
is now the Boys' Dormitory of the Appalachian Training
School for the accommodation of himself and his herders
whenever he or they should come from his home on the head
waters of the Yadkin, at Elkville. Among the herders was
an African slave named Burrell. When Col. Isbell was a boy,
say, about 1845, Burrell was still alive, but was said to have
been over one hundred years of age. He told Col. Isbell that
he had piloted Daniel Boone across the Blue Ridge to the
Howard cabin the first trip Boone ever took across the moun
tains. Boone's Trail. 8 They went up the ridge between Elk
creek and Stony Fork creek, following a well-known Indian
trail, passed through what is now called Cook's gap, and on
by Three Forks church to what is now Boone. There is
some claim that Boone passed through Deep gap; but that
is six miles further north than Cook's gap, and that much out
of a direct course. If Boone wanted to go to Kentucky he
knew his general course was northwest; and having reached the
town of Boone or Howard's cabin, his most direct route would
have been through Hodge's gap, down Brushy Fork creek
two miles, and then crossing the Grave Yard gap to Dog
Skin creek; then along the base of Rich mountain, crossing
what was then Sharp's creek (now Silverstone) to the gap
between what is now Zionville in North Carolina and Trade
in Tennessee. He would then have been at the head of Roan's
creek, down which he is known to have passed as far as what
is now known as Shoun's Cross Roads. There, on a farm
once owned by a Wagner and now by Wiley Jenkins, he
camped. His course from there in a northwesterly direction
would have led him across the Iron and Holston mountains
to the Holston river and Powell's Valley. There is also a
tradition that he followed the Brushy Fork creek from Hodge's
gap to Cove creek; thence down Cove creek to Rock House

DANIEL BOONE 83

branch at Dr. Jordan B. Phillips' — also a descendant of Ben
jamin Howard — across Ward gap to the Beaver Dams;
then across Baker's gap to Roan's creek; thence down it to
its mouth in the Watauga at what is now Butler, Tenn. Also,
that when he got to the mouth of the Brushy fork he crossed
over to the Beaver Dams through what has for many years
been called George's gap; and thence over Baker's gap.9 If
he took either of these routes he preferred to cross two high
mountains and to follow an almost due southwest course to
following a well-worn and well-known Indian trail which was
almost level and that led directly in the direction he wished
to go. A road now leaves the wagon road nearly opposite
the Brushy Fork Baptist church, about three miles from
Boone, and crosses a ridge over to Dog Skin creek, and thence
over the Grave Yard gap to Silverstone, Zionville, and Trade,
thus cutting off the angle made by following Brushy Fork to
its mouth. 1 ° Tradition says the Indian trail also crossed
Dog Skin and the Grave Yard gap. Yet, while this seems
to be the most feasible and natural trail, the venerable Levi
Morphew, now well up in ninety, thinks Boone had a camp
on Boone's branch of Hog Elk, two miles east of the Winding
Stairs trail, by which he probably crossed the Blue Ridge,
which would have taken him four miles northeast of Cook's
gap, and Col. Bryan states that there is a tradition that Boone
passed through Deep gap, crossed the Bald mountain and Long
Hope creek, through the Ambrose gap and so into Tennessee.
No doubt all these routes were followed by Boone during his
hunting trips through these mountains prior to his first great
treck into Kentucky; but on that important occasion it is
more than probable that, as his horses were heavily laden
with camp equipage, salt, ammunition and supplies, he fol
lowed the easiest, most direct, and most feasible route, and
that was via Cook's gap, Three Forks, Hodges' gap, across
Dog Skin, over the Grave Yard gap, to Zionville and Trade
and thence to what is now known as Shoun's Cross Roads.
Boone's Cabin Monument. The chimney stones of the
cabin in which it is said that Boone camped while hunting in
New river valley are still visible at the site of that cabin where
it is said Boone was found one snowy night seated by a roar
ing fire when the young couple who had occupied it the night
before and had allowed their fire to go entirely out, returned

84 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
from a trip to the Yadkin for a "live chunk" with which to
rekindle it; but which they had dropped in the snow when
almost at Boone's cabin, thus putting it out, and leaving them
as badly off as when they had set out that morning. Boone
had struck fire from his flint and steel rifle and caught the spark
in tow, from which he had kindled his blaze. Upon this site,
that public-spirited citizen, the venerable and well-informed
Col. W. L. Bryan, now in his 76th year, has erected an impos
ing stone and concrete monument, whose base is seven by
seven feet, with a shaft 26 feet in height. On the side facing
the road is the following inscription, chiseled in white marble:
"Daniel Boone, Pioneer and Hunter; Born Feb. 11, 1735;
Died Sep. 26, 1820. " On the opposite side of the monument
on a similar stone is the following: "W. L. Bryan, Son of
Battle and Rebecca Miller Bryan; Born Nov. 19, 1837; Built
Daniel Boone Monument, Oct. 1912. Cost $203.27."
Boone's Watauga Relatives. William Coffey married
Anna Boone, a sister of Jesse Boone and a neice of Daniel
Boone. She had another brother called Israel Boone. Jesse
Boone undoubtedly lived in a cabin which used to stand in a
field four miles from Shull's mills and two miles from Kelsey
post office, where he had cleared a field. The chimney foun
dation is still shown as his. On the 8th of July, 1823, Jesse
Boone conveyed to William and Alexander Elrod for $600
350 acres of land on Flannery's fork of New River and on
Roaring branch, about two miles southeast of Boone village;
adjoining land then being owned by John Agers, Jesse Council
and Russell Sams, and now owned in part by J. W. Farthing.
This deed was registered in Book M, page 391, of Ashe county
records, July 2, 1841. When Jesse Boone's sister, Anna Cof
fey, was nearly one hundred years old she talked with Mr.
J. W. Farthing while he was building a house for her grand
son Patrick Coffey, on Mulberry creek, Caldwell county, in
1871. Mr. Mack Cook of Lenoir is a direct descendant of
Daniel Boone's brother, Israel, Boone and has a rifle and pow
der horn that used to belong to him. Arthur B. Boone of
Jacksonville, Fla., claims direct descent from Daniel Boone,
and his son Robbie E. Boone, has a razor said to have been the
property of Daniel Boone. There are many others who are
related to the Boone family. Col. W. L. Bryan thinks that
Thwaites is mistaken in stating that Rebecca Boone was the

DANIEL BOONE 85

daughter of Joseph Bryan, as her father's name was Morgan,
from whom he himself and William Jennings Bryan are di
rectly descended. * x Smith Coffey was born in 1832 in Cald
well county, and says that Jesse was a brother of Daniel
Boone, and had three daughters; Anna, who married William
Coffey; Hannah, who married Smith Coffey, and Celie, who
married Buck Craig. The Smith Coffey who married Han
nah Boone was the present Smith Coffey's grandfather.
Smith Coffey's father moved to Cherokee in 1838 and set
tled on Hiwassee river four miles above Murphy, after which
he moved to Peach Tree creek where he died a year later,
his family returning to Caldwell. In 1858 Smith returned to
Cherokee and lived on a place adjoining the farm of George
Hayes on Valley river, and had a fight with that gentleman
concerning a sow just before the Civil War. Nevertheless he
joined Hayes' company, when the war began, which became
Company A in the Second N. C. Cavalry. After the battle
before New Bern, Hayes resigned and returned to Cherokee,
and William B. Tidwell of Tusquitte, now Clay county, was
elected captain from the ranks, and retained that place till
the close of the war.
The Henderson Purchase. Although the purchase of In
dian lands by white men had been prohibited by royal proc
lamation 1 2 as early as October 7, 1763, and although much of
the territory was in the actual possession of the Indians,
Richard Henderson and eight other private citizens deter
mined to buy a large tract of land in Kentucky and the north
ern part of Middle Tennessee. To anticipate somewhat, it
may be here stated that this intention was carried out but
afterwards repudiated by both Virginia, which claimed the
Kentucky portion, and North Carolina, which claimed the
Tennessee tract, and Henderson and his associates were par
tially compensated by grants of much smaller bodies of
land;13 nevertheless, at the treaty of Hopewell, S. C, on the
Keowee river, fifteen miles above its junction with the Tuga-
loo, on the 18th of December, 1785, Benjamin Hawkins, An
drew Pickens, Joseph Martin and Lachlan Campbell, com
missioners representing the United States, had the face to
deny the claim of the Indians to this identical territory —
contending that they had already sold it to Henderson and
associates. ' 4

86 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Boone's Split-Bullet. About 1890 John K. Perry and
another were felling trees in Ward's gap on Beaver Dams,
Watauga county, when Perry's companion cut a bullet in
two while trimming a young poplar. He remarked that it
might have been fired there by Daniel Boone, as it was on
his old trail. Perry said that whether Boone fired it or not
it should be a Boone bullet thereafter. So, he filed two cor
ners off a shingle nail and pressing the point of the nail thus
filed on to the clean surface of the split bullet made the first
part of a B. Then he finished the second part by pressing
the nail below the first impression, and found he had a per
fect B. Filing a larger nail in the same way he made the
impression of a D, which completed Boone's initials. This
was shown around the neighborhood for a number of years,
and most people contended that the bullet really had been
fired from Boone's rifle. But in June, 1909, Mr. Perry dis
closed the joke rather than have the deception get into se
rious history.
Daniel Boone, the Path Finder. From Chief Justice
Walter Clark's "The Colony of Transylvania," (N. C. Booklet,
Vol. iii, No. 9) we learn that Boone was a wagoner under
Hugh Waddell in Braddock's campaign of 1755, when Boone
was 21 years old; and that "in the following years he made
the acquaintance of Col. Richard Henderson, who, struck
with Boone's intelligence, and the opportunity for fortune
offered by the new lands south of the Ohio, since known as
Kentucky, organized a company, and employed Boone in
1763 to spy out the country15 . . . Years passed before it
took final shape. Boone is known to have made one of his
visits to Kentucky in 1769, and was probably there earlier. x 6
In 1773 he again attempted to enter Kentucky, carrying
his family, but was driven back with the loss of six men
killed by the Indians, among them his eldest son at Wallen's
gap." But in 1768 Henderson had been appointed a judge,
which position he held till 1773 and which probably delayed
his land scheme; but in 1774 Nathaniel Hart, one of Hender
son's partners, journeyed to the Otari towns to open negoti
ations with the Cherokees for the grant of suitable territory
for a colony of whites. On March 17, 1775, the Overhill
Cherokees assembled at the Sycamore Shoals of the Watauga,
pursuant to an order of their chief, Oconostata, where a treaty

DANIEL BOONE 87

was made and signed by him and two other chiefs, Savanoo-
koo and Little Carpenter (Atta Culla Culla), by which, in
consideration of £12,000 in goods, the Cherokees granted the
lands between the Kentucky and Cumberland rivers, em
bracing one-half of what is now Kentucky and a part of Ten
nessee. But Dragging Canoe, a chief, had opposed a treaty
for four days, and never consented to it. The share of one
brave was only one shirt. But, the Cherokees had no title
to convey, as this land was a battle-ground where the hostile
tribes met and fought out their differences. Besides, this con
veyance of the land by Indians was unlawful under both the
British and colonial laws. Henderson called this grant Tran
sylvania. As soon as Henderson thought this treaty would be signed
he started Boone ahead on March 10, 1775, with 30 men, to
clear a trail from the Holston to Kentucky — the first regular
path opened in the wilderness.
The Boone Family. Many people of the mountains
claim descent or collateral relationship with Daniel Boone.
His father was Squire Boone, who was born in Devonshire,
England and came to Pennsylvania, between 1712 and 1714,
when he was about 21 years old. He maried Sarah Morgan
July 23, 1720. Their children were Sarah, Israel, Samuel,
Jonathan, Elizabeth, Mary, Daniel, George, Edward, Squire
and Hannah, all born at Otey, Penn. Daniel was the sixth
child and was born November 2, 1734. Edward was killed
by Indians when 36 years old, and Squire died at the age of
76. Daniel married Rebecca Bryan, daughter of Joseph, in
the spring of 1756. Daniel's children were James, Israel,
Susannah, Jemima, Lavinia, Rebecca, Daniel Morgan, John
B. and Nathan. The four daughters married. The two
eldest sons were killed by Indians, and the three younger
emigrated to Missouri.17 None of Daniel's children was
named Jesse, but there was a Jesse Boone who lived just
west of the Blue Ridge, about four miles east of Shull's Mills
and one mile west of Kelsey postoffice in Watauga county,
N. C. This was on what has been called "Boone's Fork"
of Watauga river.
The Calloways. Among the Kentucky pioneers was
Col. Richard Calloway18. Two of his daughters, Betsy and
Fanny, were captured with Jemima, Boone's second daugh-

88 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
ter, in a boat at Boonesborough, Ky., on the 17th of July,
1776. They were recovered unharmed soon afterwards;19
and in the following August Betsy was married to Samuel
Henderson, one of the rescuing party. 2 ° Jemima Boone
afterwards married Flanders Calloway, a son of Colonel Cal
loway. 21 It was this Colonel Calloway who accused Boone
of having voluntarily surrendered 26 of his men at the Salt
Licks; that when a prisoner at Detroit he had engaged with
Gov. Hamilton to surrender Boonesborough, and that he had
attempted to weaken the garrison at Boonesborough before
its attack by the Indians by withdrawing men and officers,
etc.;22 but Boone was not only honorably acquitted, but
promoted from a captaincy to that of major. Related to this
Colonel Calloway was Elijah Calloway, son of Thomas Cal
loway of Virginia, who "did much for the good of society
and was a soldier at Norfolk, Va., in the War of 1812." 23
John Calloway represented Ashe county in the House in 1800,
and in the Senate in 1807, 1808, 1809; and Elijah Calloway
was in the House from 1813 to 1817, and in the Senate in 1818
and 1818, and 1819. One of these men is said to have walked
to Raleigh, supporting himself on the way by shooting game,
and in this way saved enough to build a brick house with glass
windows, the first in Ashe, near what is now Obid. He was
turned out of the Bear creek Baptist church because he had
• thus proven himself to be a rich man; and the Bible said no
rich man could enter the kingdom of heaven. The church in
which he was tried was of logs, but the accused sat defiantly
during the trial in a splint-bottomed chair, which he gave to
Mrs. Sarah Miller of that locality. This may have been
Thomas Calloway, whose grave is at Obid, marked with a
long, slender stone which had marked one of the camping
places of Daniel Boone. 2 4
An Important Historical Contribution. Dr. Archi
bald Henderson, a descendant of Richard Henderson, pub
lished in the Charlotte (Sunday) Observer, between the 16th
of March and the 1st of June, 1913, a series of articles entit
led "Life and Times of Richard Henderson," in which much
absolutely new matter is introduced, and numerous mistakes
have been corrected in what has hitherto been accepted as
history. It is especially valuable regarding the Regulators'
agitation and the part therein borne by Richard Henderson.

DANIEL BOONE 89

Dr. Henderson is a member of the faculty of the University of
North Carolina, of the State Library and Historical Associa
tion, and of the American Historical Association, and in the
forthcoming volume, soon to appear, he will put the result
of years of study and research into permanent form. He
may be relied on to give adequate authority for every state
ment of importance concerning his remarkable kinsman and
the times in which he lived.
Henderson's Share in Boone's Explorations. Roose
velt, Ramsey and other historians have related the bare fact
that Boone went on his first trip into Kentucky in 1764 at
the instance of Richard Henderson; but in these papers the
details of the association of the two men are set forth. Cer
tainly as early as 1763, Boone and Henderson, then a lawyer,
met, and discussed the territory lying to the west of the moun
tains. Henderson was seated as a Superior Court judge at
Salisbury, March 5, 1868, and ceased to represent Boone as
attorney in litigation then pending before the Superior Court
of Rowan county; but in March, 1769, when the distinguished
Waightstill Avery, then fresh from his birthplace, Norwich,
Conn., and from Princeton College, where he had graduated
in 1766, made his first appearance before the bar of that
county, we are told that he might have seen also "the skilled
scout and hunter, garbed in hunting shirt, fringed leggings
and moccasins, the then little known Daniel Boone," who
attended that term of court in defence of a lawsuit, and must
have (as shown by the sequel) conferred with Judge Hen
derson at this time about his contemplated trip into Tennessee
and Kentucky in the interest of himself, John Williams and
Thomas Hart, Henderson's first associates in the coloniza
tion enterprize he contemplated even at that early date, and
while holding a commission as judge of the colony. 2 5
The Six Nations' Claims to "Cherokee." Before Rich
ard Henderson's appointment as judge by Governor Tryon
in 1768, he and Hart and Williams had engaged Boone to
spy out the western lands for them as early as 1764, though
the proclamation of George IV, in 1763, forbidding the East
ern Colonists to settle on lands west of the Blue Ridge, may
have retarded their plans for "securing title to vast tracts
of western lands, and no move was made by Henderson
to that end until after the treaty of Fort Stanwix in 1768, by

90 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
which Great Britain had acquired by purchase from the Six
Nations their unwarranted claim to all the territory east and
southeast of the Ohio and north of the Tennessee rivers, which
territory had always been claimed by the Cherokees, and
that country was then known as "Cherokee."26
Title of the Cherokees. "The ownership of all the
Kentucky region, with the exception of the extreme north
eastern section, remained vested absolutely in the tribe of
Cherokee Indians. Their title to the territory had been
acknowledged by Great Britain through her Southern agent
of Indian Affairs, John Stuart, at the Treaty of Lochaber in
1770." 27
King George's Proclamation Made to be Broken?
Dr. Henderson insists that the King's proclamation forbid
ding the acquisition of Indian lands by the settlers was uni
versally disregarded by the settlers of the east. And while
he points out that Richard Henderson obtained an "opinion,
handed down by the Lord Chancellor and the Attorney Gen
eral, " which "cleared away the legal difficulties" in the way
of securing "an indisputable title from the Indian owners and
. . . to surmount the far more serious obstacle of Royal
edict against the purchase of lands from the Indians by pri
vate individuals, he would doutbless have been justified in
his purchase by the popular sentiment of the day in view of
the universal disregard of the Royal Proclamation of 1763."
Dr. Henderson points out that "George Washington expressed
the secret belief of the period when he hazarded the judgment
that the Royal Proclamation of 1763 was a mere temporary
expedient to quiet the Indians, and was not intended as a
permanent bar to Western Civilization. . . . George Wash
ington, acquiring vast tracts of western land by secret pur
chase, indirectly stimulated the powerful army that was
carrying the broadax westward. . . . It is no reflection upon
the fame of George Washington to point out that, of the two,
the service to the nation of Richard Henderson in promoting
western civilization was vastly more generous in its nature
and far-reaching in its results than the more selfish and pru
dent aims of Washington. " 2 8
Henderson's Title. "The valid ownership of the terri
tory being [now] actually vested in the Cherokees, Hender
son foresaw that the lands could be acquired only by lease

DANIEL BOONE 91

or by purchase from that tribe, and he forthwith set about
acquiring an accurate knowledge of the territory in question.
To get this information the services of Daniel Boone were
secured, and the latter must have "conferred with Judge
Henderson at Salisbury where he was presiding over the
Superior Court, and plans were soon outlined for Boone's
journey and expedition. At this time Boone was very poor
and his desire to pay off his indebtedness to Henderson [law
yer's fees] made him all the more ready to undertake the exhaus
tive tour of exploration in company with Finley and others";
but "at the time of Boone's return to North Carolina Judge
Henderson was embroiled in the exciting issues of the Regu
lation. His plan to inaugurate his great western venture
was thus temporarily frustrated; but the dissolution of the
Superior Court (under the judiciary act of 1767) took place
in 1773," and left Richard Henderson free to act as he saw
fit.29 Henderson and Daniel Boone. "In the meantime,
Daniel Boone grew impatient over the delay . . . and on
September 25, 1773, started from the Yadkin Valley . . .
for Kentucky, with a colony numbering eighteen men, besides
women and children;" but, being attacked by Indians, and
some of Boone's party, including his own son, having been
killed, "the whole party scattered and returned to the set
tlements. This incident is significant evidence that Boone
was deficient in executive ability, the power to originate and
execute schemes of colonization on a grand scale . . . Boone
lacked constructive leadership and executive genius. He
was a perfect instrument for executing the designs of others.
It was not until the creative and executive brain of Richard
Henderson was applied to the vast and daring project of West
ern colonization that it was carried through to a successful
termination." 30
Henderson's Scheme Denounced. "When, on Christmas
Day, 1774, there was spread broadcast throughout the colony
of North Carolina 'Proposals for the encouragement of set
tling the lands purchased by Messrs. Richard Henderson &
Co., on the branches of the Mississippi river from the Chero
kee tribe of Indians,' a genuine sensation was created." Archi
bald Neilson, deputy auditor of the colony, asked : "Is Richard
Henderson out of his head?" and Governor Josiah Martin

92 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
issued "a forcible-feeble proclamation against Richard Hender
son and his confederates in their daring, unjust and unwar
rantable proceeding. In letters to the Earl of Dartmouth,
Martin speaks scathingly of 'Henderson, the famous invader,'
and of 'the infamous Henderson and his associates' whom he
dubs 'an infamous company of land Pyrates.' He denounced
their project as a 'lawless undertaking,' and 'an infraction of
the royal prerogative.' But these 'fulminations' were un
heeded and 'the goods already purchased were transported
over the mountains in wagons to the Sycamore Shoals.' " 3 1
Failure of the Transylvania Colony. "Serious dan
gers from without began to threaten the safety and integrity
of the colony. While the Transylvania legislature was in
session, Governor Josiah Martin of North Carolina inglori-
ously fled from his 'palace', and on the very day that his
emissary, a British spy, arrived at Boonesborough, Lord
Dunmore, the royal governor of Virginia, escaped to the pro
tection of the British vessel, the 'Fowey' ... At Oxford,
N. C, on September 25, 1775, the proprietors of the Tran
sylvania company drew up a memorial to the Continental
Congress, then in session at Philadelphia, for the recognition
of the Transylvania company as the fourteenth American
colony; but this was refused "until it had been properly ac
knowledged by Virginia." Application was then made to the
Virginia convention at Williamsburg for recognition, but the
effort of Henderson, assisted by Thomas Burke, was "de
feated chiefly through the opposition of two remarkable men :
George Rogers Clark, who represented the rival settlement of
Harrodsburg in Kentucky, and Patrick Henry, who sought to
extend in all directions the power and extent of the 'Ancient
Dominion of Virginia.' Under pressure of Henderson's repre
sentations, Virginia finally acknowledged the validity of the
Transylvanians' claims against the Indians; but boldly con
fiscated the purchase, and made of Transylvania a county of
Virginia. Instead of the 20,000,000 acres obtained by the
treaty of Sycamore Shoals, Virginia granted the company
200,000 acres between the Ohio and Green rivers, and North
Carolina later granted to the company a like amount on Powell
and Clinch rivers in Tennessee." 3 2
Henderson and James Robertson. Dr. Archibald Hen
derson claims for his kinsman the honor of "having accom-

DANIEL BOONE 93

plished for Tennessee, in the same constructive way as he had
done for Kentucky [at Boonesborough], the pioneer task of
establishing a colony in the midst of the Tennessee wilder
ness, devising a system of laws and convening a legislature
for the passage of those laws." This was nothing less than
the settlement of Nashborough (now Nashville) and the coun
try surrounding it; for he claims that "under Henderson's
direction Robertson made a long and extended examination
of the region in the neighborhood of the French Lick, just as
Boone in 1769-1771 had made a detailed examination under
Henderson's direction of the Kentucky area. Upon his re
turn to the Watauga settlements on the Holston, Robertson
found many settlers ready and eager to take the great step
towards colonization of the new lands, inspired by the prom
ise of Henderson and the enthusiastic reports of Robertson
and his companions." It was while Henderson was engaged
in surveying the line between Virginia and North Carolina —
"the famous line of latitude of 36° 30' "—"that the Watauga
settlers set out for the wilderness of the Cumberland. Part
of these settlers went by water — down the Tennessee and up
the Cumberland rivers — under the leadership of Col. John
Donelson, father of Mrs. Andrew Jackson, and the others,
under Robertson, overland. Donelson's diary records the
meeting of Richard Henderson on Friday, March 31, 1780.
Henderson not only supplied the party with all needed in
formation but informed them that "he had purchased a quan
tity of corn in Kentucky to be shipped at the Falls of Ohio
(Lousville) for the Cumberland settlement. . . . James
Robertson's party had already arrived and built a few log
cabins on a cedar bluff above the 'Lick', when Donelson's
party arrived by boat, April 24,1780. Henderson himself ar
rived soon afterwards, and, assisted by James Robertson,
drew up and adopted a plan of civil government for the col
ony. A land office was established; the power to appoint
the entry-taker was vested in Henderson, as president of the
Transylvania company, and the Transylvania company was to
be paid for the lands at the rate of 26 lbs., 13 shillings and 4
pence, current money, a hundred acres, as soon as the com
pany could assure the settlers a satisfactory and indisputable
title. This resulted in perpetual non-payment, since in 1783,
North Carolina, following Virginia's lead, expropriated the

94 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
lands of the Transylvania company, granting them in com
pensation a tract of 200,000 acres in Powell's Valley." Hen
derson returned to North Carolina, and died in 1785, aged
fifty; and although memorials in his honor have been erected
in Tennessee and Kentucky, his grave at Nutbush creek in
North Carolina is unmarked; "and North Carolina has erected
no monument as yet to the man who may justly be termed
the founder of Kentucky and Tennessee." 3 3
The Shadow of Coming Events. 34 "One sentence of this
backwoods constitution [of Nashborough], remarkable in its
political anticipation, is nothing less than that establishing for
the first time in America the progressive doctrine of which so
much is heard today, the recall of judges . . . and must for
ever be associated in American history with the names of
Henderson and his coadjutor, Robertson : 'As often as the
people in general are dissatisfied with the doings of the judges
or triers so to be chosen, they may call a new election in any
of the said stations, and elect others in their stead, having
due respect to the number now agreed to be elected at each
station, which persons so to be chosen shall have the same
power with those in whose room they shall or may be chosen
to act.'"
Boone's Trail. The North Carolina Society of the Daugh
ters of the American Revolution marked Boone's trail in North
Carolina by planting iron tablets bolted to large boulders at
Cook's Gap, Three Forks' Church, Boone Village, Hodge's
Gap, Graveyard or Straddle Gap, and at Zionville, in October,
1913. Addresses were made at Boone courthouse October 23,
1913, by Mrs. W. N. Reynolds, State Regent, Mrs. Lindsay
Patterson, chairman of committee on Boone's trail, and Mrs.
Theo. S. Morrison, Regent of Edward Buncombe Chapter.
Record Evidence of the Residence of the Boones.
Jonathan Boone sold to John Hardin (Deed Book No. 5, p.
509, Ashe county) 245 acres on the 15th of September, 1821,
for $600 — on the North side of New river and on both sides
of Lynches' Mill creek, adjoining Jesse Councill's line, and
running to Shearer's Knob. This was near the town of Boone.
The John Hardin mentioned above was the father of John and
Joseph Hardin of Boone, and his wife was Lottie, the daugh
ter of Jordan CounciU, Sr., and the daughter of Benjamin
Howard. On the 7th of November, 1814, Jesse Boone entered

DANIEL BOONE 95

100 acres on the head waters of Watauga river, beginning on a
maple, Jesse Coffey's corner, and obtained a grant therefor
on the 29th of November, 1817. (Deed Book "F," Ashe
county, p. 170.) NOTES.
'Thwaites' "Daniel Boone," pp. 22, 69.
2Ibid., 23.
aibid., 73.
"Ibid., p. 66.
BStatement of James M. Isbell to J. P. A. in May, 1909, at latter's home.
6It "could still be seen, a few years ago, at the foot of a range of hills some seven and
a half miles above Wilkesboro,_ in Wilkes county." Thwaites' "Daniel Boone," p. 68.
7That inscription is not legible now. The picture of it opposite page 56 of Thw aites'
" Daniel Boone" shows that. If it had been made in 1760 it w ould not have been legible
in 1856 when Captain W. T. Pritchett of Jonesboro, Tennessee, was a boy, as he stated was
the case in June, 1909, to J. P. A.
8Some think Boone went down Brushy Fork to Dr. Phillips's present home on Cove
creek and crossed Phillips' gap to Beaver Dams and thence by Baker's gap to Roan's
creek. This, however, would not have brought him to Shoun's Cross Roads, below which
about three-fourths of a mile he is said to have made a camp on the old Wagner farm,
now owned by Wiley Jenkins.
9Dr. Jordan B. Phillips has always heard that George's gap is so called from George
Finley who so often hunted with Boone.
1 "Holland Hodges says Dog Skin creek is so called because settlers on it used to kill
all stray dogs to get their skins for tanning.
^Thwaites, 25.
*2Martin's North Carolina, Vol. II, p. 339, cited in Fifth Annual Report of the Bureau
of Ethnology, 1883-84, p. 149.
13Ramsey's Annals of Tennessee, p. 204, cited in Fifth Annual Report of the Bureau of
Ethnology, 1883-84, p. 149.
"Fifth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology, 1883-84, p. 153.
15Thwaites' "Life of Boone, " p. 21.
16The only evidence of that is the inscription on the beech tree nine miles north ol
Jonesboro, Tennessee, about killing a bear on that tree in 1760.
''Thwaites, pp. 1, 2, 25, 43.
"Thwaites' ''Daniel Boone," p. 117.
"Ibid., p. 1356.
2°Ibid., p. 143.
"Ibid., p. 158.
"Ibid., p. 165-7.
""Footprints on the Sands of Time," by Dr. A. B. Cox, p. 106.
"Statement of T. C. Bowie, Esq., to J. P. A., in September, 1912.
""Life and Times of Richard Henderson," Charlotte Observer, April 6, 1913.
2"Ibid., May 11, 1913.
"Ibid.2 'Ibid.
2 'Ibid.
soibid."Ibid."Ibid. "Ibid., June 1.
3 "Ibid.

CHAPTER V
REVOLUTIONARY DAYS
Our Part in the Revolution. x In the summer of 1880
"the British were making a supreme effort to dismember the
colonies by the conquest of the Southern States." "They
thought," says Holmes, "that important advantages might be
expected from shifting the war to the rich Southern colonies,
which chiefly upheld the financial credit of the Confederacy
in Europe, and through which the Americans received most
of their military and other supplies." "The militiaman of
Western North Carolina was unique in his way. Regarded
by his government, in the words of Governor Graham, as 'a
self-supporting institution,' he went forth to service gener
ally without thought of drawing uniform, rations, arms or
pay. A piece of white paper pinned to his hunting cap was
his uniform; a wallet of parched flour or a sack of meal was
his commissariat; a tin-cup, a frying-pan and a pair of sad
dle-bags, his only impedimenta; his domestic rifle — a Deckard
or a Kutter — and sometimes a sword, made in his own black
smith shop, constituted his martial weapons ; a horse capable of
'long subsisting on nature's bounty' was his means of rapid
mobilization or 'hasty change of base'; a sense of manly duty
performed, his quarter's pay. Indeed, his sense of propriety
would have been rudely shocked by any suggestion of reward
for serving his endangered country. . . An expert rider and
an unerring shot, he was yet disdainful of the discipline that
must mechanaze a man into a soldier or convert a mob into
an army ... he was so tenacious of personal freedom as to
be jealous of the authority of officers chosen by his vote."
The Mecklenburg Resolves. Alamance was but the
forerunner of the declaration of independence at Mecklen
burg, the proof of which follows :
Hon. George Bancroft, the historian, and at the time Min
ister to England, wrote to David L. Swain, at Chapel Hill,
July 4, 1848, as follows : "The first account of the Resolves
'by the people in Charlotte Town, Mecklenburg County,' was
(96)

(From a daguerreotype taken when he was in his 94th year.)

REVOLUTIONARY DAYS 97
sent over by Sir James Wright, then Governor of Georgia, in
a letter of the 20th of June, 1775. The newspaper thus trans
mitted is still preserved, and is in number 498 of the South
Carolina Gazette and Country Journal. 1 Tuesday, June 13,
1775. I read the Resolves, you may be sure, with reverence,
and immediately obtained a copy of them, thinking myself
the sole discoverer. I do not send you the copy, as it is iden
tically the same with the paper you enclosed to me, but I for
ward to you a transcript of the entire letter of Sir James
Wright. The newspapers seem to have reached him after he
had finished his dispatch, for the paragraph relating to it is
added in his own handwriting, the former part being written
by a secretary. . . . It is a mistake if any have supposed
that the Regulators were cowed down by their defeat at Ala
mance. "
The Men of Ashe and Buncombe. As many of those
who had taken part in the Mecklenburg Resolves bore their
part in the Revolutionary War which followed, and then
moved into Ashe and Buncombe counties, west of the Blue
Ridge, the interest of their descendants in the reality of that
heroic step is intense. As, also, many of these men were with
Sevier and McDowell in the expedition to and battle of
Kings Mountain, the following account of their experiences
through the mountains of Western North Carolina and of
the landmarks which still mark their old trails must be of
equal importance.
Western North Carolinians Won the Revolutionary
War. 3 After the battle of Alamance, the defiance declared
at public meetings, the declaration of independence at Meck
lenburg and at Halifax; after Gates' defeat at Camden, Au
gust 16, 1780, and Sumter's rout at Fishing creek, Corn-
wallis started northward to complete the conquest of Vir
ginia and North Carolina. "At this dark crisis the Western
North Carolinians conceived and organized and, with the aid
which they sought and received from Virginia and the Wa
tauga settlement [the latter being then a part of North Caro
lina] now in Tennessee, carried to glorious success at Kings
Mountain on October 7, 1780, an expedition which thwarted
all the plans of the British commander, and restored the
almost lost cause of the Americans and rendered possible
its final triumph at Yorktown on October 19, 1781. This
W. N.C  7

98 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
expedition was without reward or the hope of reward, under
taken and executed by private individuals, at their own
instance, who furnished their own arms, conveyances and
supplies, bore their own expenses, achieved the victory, and
then quietly retired to their homes, leaving the benefit of
their work to all Americans, and the United States their
debtors for independence."
Vance, McDowell and Henry. "The white occupation
of North Carolina had extended only to the Blue Ridge when
the Revolution began"; but at its close General Charles
McDowell, Col. David Vance and Private Robert Henry were
among the first to cross the Blue Ridge and settle in the new
county of Buncombe. 4 As a reward for their services, no
doubt, they were appointed to run and mark the line between
North Carolina and Tennessee in 1799, McDowell and Vance
as commissioners and Henry as surveyor. While on this work
they wrote and left in the care of Robert Henry their narra
tives of the battle of Kings Mountain and the fight at Cowan's
ford. After his death Robert Henry's son, William L. Henry,
furnished the manuscript to the late Dr. J. F. E. Hardy, and
he sent it to Dr. Lyman C. Draper, of Wisconsin. On it is
largely based his "King's Mountain and its Heroes" (1880).
David Vance. He was the grandfather of Governor and
General Vance; "came south with a great tide of Scotch-Irish
emigration which flowed into the Piedmont country from
the middle colonies between 1744 and 1752, and made his
home on the Catawba river, in what is now Burke, and was
then Rowan county, where he married Miss Brank about
1775; and here, pursuing his vocation as a surveyor and teacher,
the beginning of the Revolutionary war found him. He was
one of the first in North Carolina to take up arms in support
of the colonies, and in June, 1776, was appointed ensign in
the second North Carolina regiment of Regular Continental
troops, and shortly thereafter was promoted to a lieuten
ancy, and served with his regiment until May or June, 1778,
"when the remnant of that regiment was consolidated with
other North Carolina troops. He served at Brandywine,
Germantown, Monmouth, and was with Washington at Val
ley Forge through the terrible winter of 1777-78. In command
of a company he fought at Ramseur's Mill, Cowpens, and
King's Mountain in 1780-81. His son David was the father

REVOLUTIONARY DAYS 99
of Zebulon and Robert B. Vance, the United States senator
and Confederate general respectively, was a prominent and
influential citizen of his time, and a captain in the War of
1812, which, however, terminated before his regiment reached
the theater of war.
Captain William Moore. He was from Ulster county,
Ireland, and was the first white man to settle west of the
Blue Ridge in Buncombe. He was with his brother-in-law,
Griffith Rutherford when that officer came through Buncombe
in 1776 on his way to punish the Cherokees, and was struck
with the beauty and fertility of the spot on which he after
wards settled, six and a half miles west of Asheville, the pres
ent residence, remodeled and enlarged, of Dr. David M.
Gudger. He was a captain of one of Rutherford's com
panies. He returned in 1777 and built a fort on the site
above referred to, obtaining a grant for 640 acres from Gov
ernor Caswell soon afterwards, for "land on Hominy creek,
Burke county." But he had to leave his new home for the
Revolutionary War, in which he served gallantly, returning
at its close with his own family — his wife being Gen. Ruth
erford's sister — and five others. He had three sons, William,
Samuel, and Charles, and three daughters, all of whom mar
ried Penlands, brothers. William and Samuel moved to
Georgia, and Charles, the youngest, fell heir to the home
place. Of him Col. Allen T. Davidson says in The Lyceum for
April, 1891, page 24, that he had been born in a fort on Hom
iny creek "and was one of the most honorable, hospitable,
open-hearted men it was my good fortune to know, whom
I was taught by my parents to revere and respect; and I can
now say I never found in him anything to lessen the high es
timate placed upon him by them."
Mountain Tories. There was a man named Mills men
tioned in "The Heart of the Alleghanies" as living in Hen
derson county during the Revolutionary War; local tradi
tion says there was a Tory named Hicks who at some time
during the Revolutionary War built himself a pole cabin on
what is now the Meadow Farm near Banners Elk; but which
was for years known as Hick's Improvement. Benjamin How
ard built what is known as the Boone cabin for the accommo
dation of himself and his herders when they were looking after
the cattle grazing on the mountains near what is now the

100 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
town of Boone. Howard's Knob, where he is said to have
had a cave, and Howard's creek are named for him. His
daughter Sarah married Jordan Council, Sr., a prominent
citizen, and they lived near the oak tree that has buck-horns
embedded in its. trunk, near Boone village. There is also here,
at the spring, a large sycamore tree which grew from a switch
stuck in the moist soil by Jesse Council, eldest son of Jordan
Council, about one hundred years ago. Howard was a Tory.
Some of the Norris family are said to have been Tories also;
and two men, named White and Asher, were killed by the
Whigs near Shull's Mills during the Revolutionary War. 5
There were, doubtless, other Tories hidden in these mountains
during those troublous times. Daniel Boone himself was not
above suspicion, and escaped conviction under charges of dis
loyalty at Boonesborough, Ky., by pleading that his acts of
apparent disloyalty were due to the fact that he had been
"playing the Indians in order to gain time for getting rein
forcements to come up." 6
The Norris Family. William Norris settled on Meat
Camp, and his brother Jonathan on New river, about 1803,
probably, as William was less than ninety when he died in 1873.
Thomas Hodges came to Hodges' gap one, and a half miles
west of what is now Boone, during the Revolutionary War.
He came from Virginia, and brought his family with him. He
was a Tory and was seeking to keep out of taking up arms
against Great Britain when he came to his new home. There
was a Norris in this section who was also a Tory. Thomas
Hodges' son Gilbert married a daughter of Robert Shearer who
lived on New River, three miles from Boone, and died there
about 1845. Robert Shearer was a Scotchman who had fought
in the American army. In 1787 Gilbert was born, and lived at
the place of his birth in Hodges' gap till his death in December,
1862. Hollard Hodges, a son of Gilbert, was born there
July 18, 1827, and is still there. He still remembers that
about 1856 he and Jordan McGhee in one day killed 432
rattlesnakes on a rocky and cliffy place on the Rich mountain
about three miles from Boone; and that he has always heard
that Ben. Howard had entered all the land about Hodges gap.
His wife was born Elizabeth CounciU, and is a grand-doughter
of Jordan CounciU, Sr., whose wife was Sallie, daughter of
Ben. Howard.

REVOLUTIONARY DAYS 101
Henderson County Heroes. In her history of Hender
son county, written for this work, Mrs. Mattie S. Candler
says, "here are unquestionably numbers of quiet sleepers
in the little old and neglected burying grounds all over the
county who followed Shelby and Sevier at Kings Mountain,"
and mentions the grandfather of Misses Ella and Lela McLean
and Mrs. Hattie Scott as having fought against his immediate
relatives in the British army on that occasion, receiving a se
vere wound there. Elijah Williamson is said to have lived
in Henderson county on land now owned by Preston Patton,
his great grandson. Williamson was born in Virginia, moved
to Ninety-Six, S. C, and afterwards settled on the Patton farm,
where he planted five sycamore trees, naming each for one
of his daughters. They still stand. Samuel Fletcher, ances
tor of Dr. G. E. Fletcher and of Mrs. Wm. R. Kirk and Miss
Estelle Edgerton of HendersonviUe, owned an immense tract
adjoining the Patton farm, to which it is supposed he came
about the time that Elijah Williamson did.
Descendants of Revolutionary Heroes. Representatives
of several Revolutionary soldiers reside in these mountains,
among whom are the Alexanders, Davidsons, Fosters,
McDowells, Coffeys, Bryans, Penlands, Wisemans, Aliens,
Welches, and scores of others, who fought in North Caro
lina. Others are descendants of Nathan Horton, who was a
member of the guard at the execution of Major Andre, when
he carried a shot-gun loaded with one ball and three buck
shot. J. B. Horton, a direct descendant, has the gun now.
J. C. Horton, who lives on the South Fork of the New River,
near Boone, has a grandfather's clock which his ancestor,
Nathan Horton, brought with him from New Jersey over one
hundred years ago. The late Superior Court Judge, L. L.
Greene of Boone, and the Greenes of Watauga generally, trace
their descent directly from General Nathanael Greene, who
conducted the most masterly retreat of the Revolutionary
War, when he slowly retired before Cornwallis from Camden
to Yorktown, and won the applause of even the British. 7
The Old Field. Where Gap creek empties into the South
Fork of New River is a rich meadow on which, according to
tradition, there has never been any trees. It has been called
the "old field" time out of mind. It was here that Col.
Cleveland was captured by a notorious Tory named Riddle

102 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
and his followers during the Revolutionary War. 8 The apple
tree under which it is said he was seated when surprised and
captured is still standing in the yard of the old Luther Per
kins home, 9 now occupied by a son of Nathan Waugh. The
tree is said to be 180 years old. It is three feet in diam
eter six feet from the ground, and still bears fruit. It is
said that Mrs. Perkins sent her daughter to notify Ben Greer
and Joseph Calloway of Cleveland's capture and that they
followed him by means of twigs dropped in the river as he
was led up stream, having joined the party of Captain Cleve
land, who had gone in pursuit. Greer lived four miles above
Old Field and Calloway two miles below. It is said that
Greer shot one of the captors at Riddle's knob, to which
point Cleveland had been taken, and that the rest fled, Cleve
land himself dropping behind the log on which he had been
seated while slowly writing passes for his captors. It is also
claimed that Ben. Greer fired the shot which killed Col. Fer
guson at Kings Mountain. l "Roosevelt says Ferguson was
pierced by half a dozen bullets. (Vol. iii, 170).
The Wolf's Den. Riddle's knob is ten miles north of
Boone, and is even yet a "wild and secluded spot, being very
near the noted Elk Knob, the place where this noted Tory
had his headquarters. It is known as the "Wolf's Den," and
is the place where the early settlers caught many young
wolves." About 1857 Micajah Tugman found Riddle's
knife in the crevices of the Wolf's Den. It was of peculiar
design, the "jaws" being six inches long, and the handle was
curved. 1 1
Benjamin Cleveland. This brave man was born in Vir
ginia May 26, 1738. When thirty-one years of age he came
to North Carolina to live, settling in Wilkes county. In 1776
he became a Whig. He was himself somewhat cruel, as it is
related of him that "some time after this (his capture at Old
Field) this same Riddle and his son, and another was taken,
and brought before Cleveland, and he hung all three of them
near the Mulberry Meeting House, now Wilkesborough. " 1 2
Cleveland weighed over three hundred pounds, and his men
called him "Old Roundabout," and themselves "Cleveland's
Bull Dogs." The Tories, however, called them "Cleveland's
Devils. " He was a captain in Rutherford's expedition across
the mountains to punish the Cherokees in 1776, for which

REVOLUTIONARY DAYS 103
service he was made a colonel, and as such rendered great
service in suppressing Tory bands on the frontier. He raised
a regiment of four hundred men in Surry and Wilkes counties
and with them took part in Kings Mountain fight. Before
he died he weighed over 450 pounds, but was cheerful and
witty to the end, which came in October, 1806. 1 3
Dr. Draper's Account. In his "Kings Mountain and Its
Heroes," Dr. Draper tells us (Ch. 19, p. 437, et seq.) that the
Old Fields belonged to Colonel Cleveland, and served, in
peaceful times, as a grazing region for his stock, and there
his tenant, Jesse Duncan, resided. On Saturday, April 14,
1881, accompanied only by a negro servant, Cleveland rode
from his "Round About" plantation on the Yadkin to the
Old Fields, where he spent the night. Captain William
Riddle, a son of Col. 'James Riddle of Surry county, both of
whom were Royalists, was at that time approaching Old
Field from Virginia, with Captain Ross, a Whig captive, and
his servant, enroute to Ninety Six, in South Carolina. Cap
tain Riddle's party of six or eight men, reached the home of
Benjamin Cutbirth, some four miles above Old Field, on the
afternoon of the day that Cleveland arrived at Jesse Dun
can's, and abused Cutbirth, who was a Whig and suffering
from wounds he had but recently sustained in the American
cause. Riddle, however, soon left Cutbirth's and went on to
the upper end of Old Fields, where Joseph and Timothy
Perkins resided, about one mile above Duncan's. Both these
men were absent in Tory service at the time; but Riddle
learned from their women that Cleveland was at Duncan's
"with only his servant, Duncan and one or two of the Callo
way family." Riddle, however, was afraid to attack Cleve
land openly, and determined to lure him into an ambush
the next morning. Accordingly, that night, he had Cleve
land's horses secretly taken from Duncan's to a laurel thicket
"just above the Perkins house," where they were tied and
left. But, it so happened, that on that very Saturday, Rich
ard Calloway and his brother-in-law, John Shirley, went down
from the neighboring residence of Thomas Calloway, to see
Col. Cleveland, where they remained over night. On the
following (Sunday) morning, discovering that his horses were
missing, Cleveland and Duncan, each with a pistol, and Cal
loway and Shirley, unarmed, went in pursuit, following the

104 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
tracks of the stolen horses, just as Riddle had planned.
"Reaching the Perkins place, one of the Perkins women,
knowing of the ambuscade, secretly desired to save the Colo
nel from his impending fate, and detained him as long as she
could, while his three companions went on, Cleveland follow
ing some little distance behind." She also followed, retard
ing Cleveland by enquiries, until his companions had crossed
the fence that adjoined the thicket, where they were fired
upon by Riddle's men from their places of concealment.
Calloway's thigh was broken by the shot of Zachariah Wells,
but Duncan and Shirley escaped. Cleveland "dodged into
the house with several Tories at his heels." There he sur
rendered on condition that they would spare his life; but
when Wells arrived he swore that he would kill Cleveland
then and there, and would have done so had not the latter
"seized Abigal Walters and kept her between him and his
would-be assassin." Riddle, however, soon came upon the
scene and ordered Wells to desist; after which, "the whole
party with their prisoner and his servant were speedily
mounted and hurried up New river," traveling "mostly in
its bed to avoid being tracked, in case of pursuit." Two
boys, of fourteen and fifteen, "Daniel Cutbirth and a youth
named Walters, " had resolved to waylay Riddle on his return
to Benjamin Cutbirth's, and rescue whatever prisoners he
might have with him; but they were deterred from their pur
pose by the size and noise of Riddle's party as they passed
their place of concealment that Sunday morning. Riddle's
party got dinner at Benjamin Cutbirth's where one of Cut-
birth's daughters was abused and kicked by Riddle because
of her reluctance in serving Riddle's party. After dinner
Riddle's party proceeded up the bed of New river to the
mouth of Elk creek, where the new and promising town of
Todd now flourishes at the terminus of a new railroad now
building from Konarok, Va., Cleveland meanwhile breaking
off overhanging twigs and dropping them in the stream as a
guide to his friends who, he knew, would soon follow in pur
suit. "From the head of the south fork of Elk, they as
cended up the mountains in what has since been known as
Riddle's Knob, in what is now Watauga county, and some
fourteen miles from the place of Cleveland's captivity,"
where they camped for the night. Meantime, early that

REVOLUTIONARY DAYS 105

Sabbath morning, Joseph Calloway and his brother-in-law,
Berry Toney, had called at Duncan's, and hearing firing in
the direction of Perkins's home, hastened there; but, meeting
Duncan and Shirley in rapid flight, they learned from them
that Richard Calloway had been left behind for dead and
that Cleveland was either dead or captured. Duncan, Shir
ley and Toney then went to notify the people of the scattered
settlements to meet that afternoon at the Old Fields, while
Joseph Calloway rode to Captain Robert Cleveland's place
on Lewis Fork of the Yadkin river, a dozen miles distant.
His brother, William Calloway, started forthwith up New
river and soon came across Benjamin Greer and Samuel
McQueen, who readily joined them, and together they fol
lowed Riddle's trail till night overtook them ten miles above
the Old Fields, where Calloway and McQueen remained,
while Greer returned to pilot whatever men might have
gathered to engage in the pursuit of the Tories. Greer
soon met Robert Cleveland and twenty others at the Old
Fields, and all started at once, reaching Calloway and Mc
Queen before day Monday morning. John Baker joined
Calloway and McQueen to lead the advance as spies or ad
vance guards; and, soon after sunrise, the nine men who were
in advance of the others fired upon Riddle's party, while
Cleveland tumbled behind the log on which he was slowly
writing passes for his Tory captors. But Wells alone was
shot, being hit as he scampered away by William Calloway,
and was left as it was supposed that he had been mortally
wounded. Riddle and his wife mounted horses and escaped
with the others of his band. "Cleveland's servant, who had
been a pack-horse for the Tory plunderers, " was rescued with
his master. Captain Ross, Riddle's Virginia prisoner, was also
rescued. Shortly after this Riddle captured on Kings creek at
night two of Cleveland's noted soldiers, David and John Wither-
spoon, who resided with their parents on Kings creek, and
spirited them many miles away in the mountain region on
Watauga river. Here they escaped death by taking the oath
of allegiance to the King of England, and were released; but as
soon as they reached their home, David hastened to notify Col.
Ben. Herndon, several miles down the Yadkin, who with a
party of men, under the guidance of the Witherspoon brothers,
returned and captured Riddle and two of his noted associates,

106 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Reeves and Gross, who were taken to Wilkesboro and "executed
on the hill adjoining the village on a stately oak. .
Mrs. Riddle, " who seems to have accompanied her husband on
his wild and reckless marauds, "was present and witnessed his
execution." Wells had been captured and hanged by Cleve
land a short time before. (P. 446.)
David and John Witherspoon. Of these heroes Dr.
Draper says (p. 461), "David was a subordinate officer — per
haps a lieutenent — in Cleveland's regiment at Kings moun
tain, and his younger brother John was a private." They
were of Scotch origin, but natives of New Jersey. David was
born in 1758 and John in 1760. They were collateral rela
tives of John Witherspoon, president of Princeton college, and
a signer of the Declaration of Independence. Each afterwards
represented Wilkes in the legislature. David died in May
1828 while on a visit to South Carolina, and John in Wayne
county, Tenn., in 1839. Captain William Harrison Wither
spoon, of Jefferson, was descended from John Witherspoon,
and was born near Kings creek, January 24, 1841. He was
a sergeant major of the 1st N. C. Infantry, was shot in the
leg at Seven Pines in 1862, and in the forehead at Spottsyl-
vania Court House, May 12, 1864, returning for duty in less
than two months. He surrendered with Lee at Appomattox,
after serving four years and nine days in the Confederate
army. His wife was born Clarissa Pennell in Wilkes county.
In the Spring of 1865, while seven of Stonemen's men — three
negroes and four white men — were trying to break into her
father's stable near Wilkesboro, for the purpose of stealing
her father's horses and mules, she warned them that if they
persisted she would shoot; and as they paid her no heed, she
did actually shoot and kill one of the white robbers, and the
rest fied. Gen. Stoneman, when he heard of her conduct,
sent her a guard and complimented her highly for her courage
and determination.
The Perkins Family. J. D. Perkins, Esq., an attorney at
Kendrick, Va., in a letter to his brother, L. N. Perkins, at
Boone, N. C, of date December 1, 1913, says that his ances
tors Joseph and Timothy Perkins were tax gatherers under
the colonial government of Massachusetts about the com
mencement of the Revolutionary War, but removed to Old
Fields, Ashe county on account of political persecution. They

REVOLUTIONARY DAYS 107
remained loyal to the King during the whole of the Revolu
tionary War, and Timothy was killed somewhere in Ashe in
a Tory skirmish. Timothy left several sons and one daugh
ter, Lucy, J. D. Perkin's great grandmother, who married a
man named Young. Joseph also left sons and daughters. "I
have forgotten the names of most of our great grand uncles, "
wrote J. D. Perkins in the letter above mentioned, "but I
remember to have heard our mother tell about seeing 'Granny
Skritch,' a sister to our great-great-grandfather, and who
was very old at that time, and living with one of her Perkins
relatives up on Little Wilson. Our mother was then quite
small and the old lady (Granny Skritch) was very old and
confined to her bed; but our mother was impressed with
Granny Skritch's loyalty, even then, to King George, and the
manner in which she abused the Patriot soldiers in her talk."
Other Important Facts. Dr. Draper says (p. 435), "In
the summer of 1780 he (Cleveland) was constantly employed
in surpressing the Tories — first in marching against those as
sembled at Ramsour's mill, reaching them shortly after their
defeat; then in chasing Col. (Samuel) Bryan from the State,
and finally in scouring the region of New River including the
Tory rising in that quarter, capturing and hanging some of
their notorious leaders and outlaws. "
Cleveland's Character. Dr. Draper tries to temper the
facts of Benjamin Cleveland's career as much as possible, but
that this hero of the Revolutionary War was inhumanly cruel,
cannot be disguised. His compelling a horse-thief, socalled —
for he had not been tried — to cut off his own ears with a
case knife in order to escape death by hanging, was inexpres
sibly revolting. (P. 447). Cleveland lost his "Round About
Farm" "by a better title" at the close of the war, and moved
to the "fine region of the Tugalo on the western border of
South Carolina" and "though the Indian title was not yet
extinguished," he resolved to be among the early squatters
of the country, and "removed to his new home in the forks
of the Tugalo river and Chauga creek in the present county
of Oconee" in 1785. He served many years as a "judge of
the Court of Old Pendleton county, with General Pickens and
Col. Robert Anderson as his associates, . . . 'frequently
taking a snooze on the bench' says Governor B. F. Perry,
while the lawyers were making long and prosy speeches. " He

108 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
was defeated for the legislature in 1793 by seven votes.
"He had scarcely any education," and "was despotic in his
nature" declares Dr. Draper; but "North Carolina deservedly
commemorated his services by naming a county after him."
Here he died and was buried; but "no monument — no inscrip
tion — no memorial stone — point out his silent resting place."
(P. 453-4.)
Ashe a Battle Ground. From Robert Love's pension
papers it appears that the first battle in which he took part
was when he was in command of a party of Americans in
1880 against a party of Tories in July of that year. This
band of Tories was composed of about one hundred and fifty
men, and they were routed "up New River at the Big Glades,
now in Ashe county, North Carolina, as they were on the way
to join Cornwallis." "In the year 1780 this declarent was
engaged against the Torys at a special court first held on
Toms creek down the New river, and afterwards upon Crip
ple creek; then up New river . . . then, afterwards at
the Moravian Old Town . making an examination
up to near the Shallow Ford of the Yadkin . . . rout
ing two parties of Tories in Guilford county, hanging one of
the party who fell into his hands up the New River, and
another, afterwards, whom they captured in Guilford." This
activity may explain the presence of the mysteriuos battle
ground in Alleghany county. (See ch. 13, "A Forgotten Bat
tlefield.") The Big Glades. This may be the Old Field, and it is
most probable that this is the spot reached and lauded by
Bishop Spangenberg in 1752. (See ch. 3, "In Goshen's
Land.") But whether they are identical with that locality or not,
the following is an account of that well-known spot:
Short Story of an Old Place. This land was granted
to Luther Perkins by grant No. 599, which is recorded in Ashe
county July 28, 1904, Book WW, page 254. But the grant itself
is dated November 30, 1805, while the land was entered in May,
1803. This tract is the one on which the apple tree stands
under which Cleveland is said to have been captured; but it is
probably not the first tract nor the best, which was conveyed
by Charles McDoweU, a son of Gen. Charles McDowell
of Revolutionary fame, to Richard Gentry for $1,000 in

REVOLUTIONARY DAYS 109
1854. There seems to be several hundred acres in that bound
ary, beginning on a Spanish oak in the line of Joseph Perkins's
Old Field Tract, and crossing Gap creek. There is no record in
Ashe county, of how Charles McDowell got this place, though
he probably inherited it. Richard Gentry divided his property
into three parts, two in land and one in slaves. Adolphus
R,usseau, who married one of Gentry's daughters got the land
now owned by Arthur Phillips. Nathan Waugh got the other
tract, while James Gentry, a son, took the slaves. It was on
this tract that the first 100 bushels of corn to the acre of land
in Ashe county was raised by Richard Gentry. He was a mem
ber of the family of whom Dr. Cox said in his "Foot Prints,"
(p. 110): "The Gentry family have been distinguished for
their principles and patriotic love of constitutional liberty and
justice." Of Hon. Richard Gentry himself he said (p. 116):
"He married a Miss Harboard and his residence was at Old
Field. He was a Baptist preacher, justice of the peace and
clerk of the Superior Court and a member of both branches
of the legislature."
Sword-tilt Between Herndon and Beverly. "The
depredations of the Tories were so frequent, and their conduct
so savage, that summary punishment was demanded by the
exigencies of the times. This Cleveland inflicted without
ceremony. General Lenoir relates a circumstance that occur
red at Mulberry Meeting-house. While there, on some pub
lic occasion, the rumor was that mischief was going on by the
Tories. Lenoir went to his horse, tied at some distance from
the house, and, as he approached, a man ran off from the oppo
site side of the horse. Lenoir hailed him, but he did not stop;
he pursued him and found that he had stolen one of the stir
rups of his saddle. He carried the pilferer to Colonel Cleve
land, who ordered him to place his two thumbs in a notch for
that purpose in an arbor fork, and hold them there while he
ordered him to receive fifteen lashes. This was his peculiar
manner of inflicting the law, and gave origin to the phrase,
'To thumb the notch.' The punishment on the offender
above was well inflicted by Captain John Beverly, whose
ardor did not stop at the ordered number. After the fifteen
had been given, Colonel Herndon ordered him to stop, but
Beverly continued to whip the wincing culprit. Colonel
Herndon drew his sword and struck Beverly. Captain Bev-

1 10 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
erly drew also, and they had a tilt which, but for friends,
would have terminated fatally." 14
Shad Laws' Oak. There is a tree on the public road in
Wilkes, which to this day bears the name of "Shad Laws' Oak, "
on which the notches, thumbed by said Laws under the sen
tence of Cleveland, are distinctly visible. 1 6
Sevier, the Harry Percy of the Revolution. When
"General Charles McDowell, finding his force too weak to
stop Ferguson," "crossed the mountains to the Watauga
settlements, he found the mountaineers ready to unite
against the hated Ferguson. . . . These hardy men set
out to search for Ferguson on September 25 (1780). They
were armed with short Deckard rifles, and were expert shots.
They knew the woods as wild deer do, and from boyhood
had been trained in the Indian ways of fighting. They fur
nished their own horses and carried bags of parched flour for
rations." 16
According to Dr. Lyman C. Draper's "Kings Mountain
and Its Heroes, " page 176, Sevier followed the Gap creek from
Mathew Talbot's Mill, now known as Clark's Mill, three
miles from Sycamore Shoals, "to its head, when they bore
somewhat to the left, crossing Little Doe river, reaching the
noted 'Resting Place,' at the Shelving Rock, about a mile
beyond the Crab Orchard, where, after a march of some twenty
miles that day, they took up their camp for the night. . . .
Here a man named Miller resided, who shod several of the
horses of the party." The next morning, Wednesday, the
twenty-seventh (of September, 1880,) . . . they reached
the base of the Yellow and Roan mountains and ascended the
mountain by following the well-known Bright's Trace, through
a gap between the Yellow mountain on the north and the
Roan mountain on the south. The sides and top of the moun
tain were "covered shoe-mouth deep with snow." On the
100 acres of "beautiful table land" on top they paraded and
discharged their short Deckard rifles; "and such was the rar
ity of the atmosphere, that there was little or no report."
Here two of Sevier's men deserted. They were James Craw
ford and Samuel Chambers, and were suspected of having
gone ahead to warn Ferguson of Sevier's approach. Sevier
did not camp there, however, as there was still some hours
of daylight left after the parade and refreshments, but "passed

REVOLUTIONARY DAYS 1 1 1
on a couple of miles, descending the eastern slope of the moun
tains into Elk Hollow, a slight depression between the Yellow
and Roan mountains, rather than a gap; and here, at a fine
spring flowing into Roaring creek, they took up their camp
for the night. Descending Roaring creek on the 28th four
miles they reached its confluence with the North Toe river,
and a mile below they passed Bright's place, now Avery's; and
thence down the Toe to the noted spring on the Davenport
place, since Tate's, and now known as the Childs place, a
little distance west of the stream."
HAYWOOD IN THE REVOLUTIONARY WAR.
"Long before white people had come into the mountain country, all
the land now included in Haywood county was occupied by the war
like Cherokees. As the western frontier of civilization, however, ap
proached the Indian territory, the simple natives of the hills retired
farther and farther into the fastnesses of the mountains. While the
Regulators were resisting Tryon at Alamance and the patriots under
Caswell and Moore were bayonetting the Tories at Moore's Creek Bridge,
the Cherokees of what is now Haywood county were smoking their pipes
in peace under the shadows of Old Bald or hunting along the banks of
the murmuring Pigeon and its tributaries.
"When, however, the tide of western immigration overflowed the
French Broad and began to reach the foothills of the Balsams the Cher
okees, ever friendly as a rule to the white man, gave up their lands and
removed to the banks of the Tuckaseigee, thus surrendering to their
white brothers all the land eastward of a line running north and south
between the present town of Waynesville and the Balsam range of moun
tains. Throughout the period of the early settlement of Haywood county
and until the present the most friendly relations have existed between
the white people and the Cherokees.
"Only one incident is given by tradition which shows that any hos
tile feeling existed at any time. It is related that a few Indians from
their settlement on the Tuckaseigee, before the close of the eighteenth
century, went across the Smoky mountains into Tennessee and stole
several horses from the settlers there. A posse of white men followed
the redskins, who came across the Pigeon on their way home, encamped
for the night on Richland near the present site of the Hardwood factory
in Waynesville. While encamped for the night, their white pursuers came
up, fired into them, recaptured the horses, and began their journey back
to Tennessee. The Indians, taken by surprise, scattered, but soon recov
ered themselves and went in pursuit of the white men. At Twelve Mile
creek they came upon the whites encamped for the night. Indian fashion
they made an attack, and in the fight which ensued one white man by the
name of Fine was killed. The Indians, however, were driven off. Before
leaving their camp next morning the white men took the body of their

12 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA

dead comrade, broke a hole in the ice which covered the creek, and put
him in the ice cold water to remain until they could return for the body.
A big snow was on the ground at the time, and it was bitter cold. From
this story Twelve Mile creek came to be called Fines creek.
"Haywood county's citizenship has always been at the front in times
of war. From the best information obtainable it is quite certain that
most of the earliest settlers had been in the Continental army and fought
through the entire war of the Revolution, and later on many of them were
in the war of 1812. Still later a number of these veterans of two wars
moved to the great and boundless West, where the hazardous life might
be spent in fighting savage tribes of Indians.
"As best it can be learned, only seven of these grand old patriots died
and were buried within the confines of Haywood county, to-wit: at
Waynesville, Colonel William Allen and Colonel Robert Love; at Canton,
George Hall, James Abel, and John Messer; at upper Fines creek, Hughey
Rogers; at Lower Fines creek, Christian Messer. There were doubtless
others, but their names have been lost.
"All of these old soldiers were ever ready to fight for their homes.
They came in almost daily contact with the Cherokee Indians, once a great
and warlike tribe controlling the wilderness from the glades of Florida to
the Great Lakes. While these savages were friendly to the settlers it was
ever regarded as not a remote possibility that they might go upon the
warpath at any time. Hence our forefathers had them constantly to
watch while they were subduing the land."17
NOTES.
IN. C Booklet, Vol. I, No. 7, p. 3.
2Dropped Stitches, 2, p. 17.
BAsheville's Centenary.
^McDowell entered land and settled his children near Brevard.
5Captain W. M. Hodge's statement to Col. W. L. Bryan of Boone, 1912, in letter from
latter to J. P. A., November 26, 1912.
Thwaites, p. 167.
'N. C. Booklet, Vol. I, No. 7.
BWheeler's History of North Carolina, p. 444.
9He was probably related to "Gentleman George" Perkins who had piloted Bishop I.
Spangenberg's party in 1752. Col. Rec, Vol. V, pp. 1 to 14.
10This tradition ia also preserved in the family of Prof. Isaac G. Greer, professor of
history in the Appalachian Training School, Boone.
11From Col. W. L. Bryan's "Primitive History of the Mountain Region," written in
1912 for this work.
12Wheeler's History of North Carolina, p. 444.
13N. C. Booklet, Vol. I, No. 7, p. 27.
14 Wheeler's History of North Carolina, p. 445.
l5Ibid., citing Mss. of General Wm. Lenoir.
'•Hill, p. 189.
"Allen, p. 21.

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Robert Love Memorial Tablet.

CHAPTER VI
THE STATE OF FRANKLIN
The Act of Cession of Tennessee. As Congress was
heavily in debt at the close of the Revolutionary War, North
Carolina, in 1784, "voted to give Congress the twenty-nine
million acres lying between the Alleghany mountains and the
Mississippi river."1 This did not please the Watauga set
ters, and a few months later the legislature of North Carolina
withdrew its gift, and again took charge of its western land
because it feared the land would not be used to pay the debts
of Congress. These North Carolina law makers also "ordered
judges to hold court in the western counties, arranged to
enroll a brigade of soldiers, and appointed John Sevier to
command it. " 2
Franklin. In August, 1784, a convention met at Jones
boro and formed a new State, with a constitution providing
that lawyers, doctors and preachers should never be mem
bers of the legislature; but the people rejected it, and then
adopted the constitution of North Carolina in November,
1785, at Greenville. They made a few changes in the North
Carolina constitution, but called the State Franklin. John
Sevier was elected governor and David Campbell judge of the
Superior court. Greenville was made the capital. The
first legislature met in 1785; Landon Carter was the Speaker
of the Senate, and Thomas Talbot clerk. William Gage was
Speaker of the House, and Thomas Chapman clerk. The Con
vention made treaties with the Indians, opened courts,
organized new counties, and fixed taxes and officers' salaries
to be paid in money, corn, tobacco, whiskey, skins, etc., includ
ing everything in common use among the people. 3
Tennessee's View of the Act of Cession. "The set
tlers lived and their public affairs were conducted under the
jurisdiction of the County Court of Pleas and Quarter Ses
sions for a period of about six years, in a quiet and orderly
manner; but ever since that May day of 1772 when they
organized the first "free and independent government,"
their dream had been of a new, separate and independent
( 113 ) W. N. C  8

1 14 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
commonwealth, and they began to be restless, dissatisfied
and disaffected toward the government of North Carolina.
Many causes seemed to conspire to increase their discontent.
The first constitution of North Carolina had made provision
for a future State within her limits, on the western side of
the Alleghany mountains. The mother State had persistently
refused, on the plea of poverty, to establish a Superior Court
and appoint an attorney general or prosecuting officer for the
inhabitants west of the mountains. In 1784, many claims
for compensation, for military services, supplies, etc., in the
campaigns against the Indians, were presented to the State
government from the settlements west of the Alleghanies.
North Carolina was impoverished; and, notwithstanding
the fact that these claims were just, reasonable and honest,
it was suggested, and perhaps believed, 'that all pretenses
were laid hold of (by the settlers) to fabricate demands against
the government, and that the industry and property of those
who resided on the east side of the mountains were become
the funds appropriated to discharge the debts contracted by
those on the west. ' Thus it came about that, in May, 1784,
North Carolina, in order to relieve herself of this burden,
ceded to the United States her territory west of the Alle
ghanies, provided that Congress would accept it within two
two years. At a subsequent session, an act was passed re
taining jurisdiction and sovereignity over the territory until
it should have been accepted by Congress. Immediately
after passing the act of cession, North Carolina closed the
land office in the ceded territory, and nullified all entries of
land made after May 25, 1784.
"The passage of the cession act stopped the delivery of a
quantity of goods which North Carolina was under promise to
deliver to the Cherokee Indians, as compensation for their
claim to certain lands. The failure to deliver these goods
naturally exasperated the Cherokees, and caused them to
commit depredations, from which the western settlers were
of course the sufferers." (McGhee's History of Tennessee).
"At this session the North Carolina Assembly at Hillsboro laid taxes,
or assessed taxes and empowered Congress to collect them, and vested
in Congress power to levy a duty on foreign merchandise.
"The general opinion among the settlers west of the Alleghanies was
that the territory would not be accepted by Congress and

STATE OF FRANKLIN 115
that, for a period of two years, the people in that territory, being under
the protection neither of the government of the United States nor of
the State of North Carolina, would neither receive any support from
abroad nor be able to command their own resources at home — for the
North Carolina act had subjected them to the payment of taxes to the
United States government. At the same time, there was no relaxation
of Indian hostilities. Under these circumstances, the great body of
people west of the Alleghanies concluded that there was but one thing
left for them to do, and that was to adopt a constitution and organize a
State government of their own. This they proceeded to do."
(McGhee's History of Tennessee.)
Sevier and North Carolina. In this condition of affairs
the State of Franklin had been organized. The cession act
was repealed and a judge sent to Tennessee to hold court;
but there were two rival governments attempting to exer
cise power in the Watauga settlement, and there were, in con
sequence, frequent clashes, between Col. John Tipton's forces,
representing North Carolina, and those of John Sevier. Accord
ing to Roosevelt, from whose history4 the balance of this ac
count has been taken, the desire to separate from the Eastern
States was strong throughout the west owing to the unchecked
ravages of the Indians and the refusal of the right to the set
tlers to navigate the Mississippi. The reason the Watauga
settlers seized upon the first pretext to separate from the
mother State was because most of them were originally from
Virginia, and in settling where they did, supposed they were
still on Virginia soil. Then, too, North Carolina had a weak
government, and Virginia was far more accessible to the
pioneers than the Old North State. While Kentucky had
settled up after the Revolutionary War with "men who were
often related by ties of kinship to the leaders of the Virginia
legislatures and conventions," the North Carolina settlers
who came to Watauga "were usually of the type of those who
had first built their stockaded hamlets on the bank of the
Watauga, and the first leaders of Watauga continued at the
head of affairs." Many of these, including Robertson and
Sevier, had been born in Virginia, where there was intense
State pride, and felt little loyalty to North Carolina. It is,
however, but just to say that James Robertson had no part
in this attempt to set up a separate State government, he
having already gone to the French Licks where he had estab
lished a government which was as loyal to North Carolina as

116 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
its remoteness admitted. North Carolina herself wished to
be rid of the frontiersmen, because it was poor and felt the
burden of the debts contracted in the Indian wars of the border.
Then, too, the jurisdiction of the State courts had not been
extended over these four western counties, Davidson, Wash
ington, Sullivan and Greene, although they sent representa
tives to the State legislature at Hillsborough. Consequently,
those counties became a refuge for outlaws, who had to be
dealt with by the settlers without the sanction of law. In
June 1784 the legislature passed an act ceding all the western
lands to the Continental Congress, to be void in case Con
gress did not accept the gift within two years; but continuing
its sovereignty and jurisdiction over the ceded lands. Even
the members from these four counties then in the legislature
of the mother State voted for the cession. It was a time of
transition between the weakness of the Confederation and
the adoption of the constitution of 1787; but North Carolina
did not propose to allow this new State to set up for itself
without her formal and free consent. It therefore set about
reducing the recalcitrants to submission, and soon the last
vestige of the Sevier government had become extinct.
Colonel John Tipton. Although this gentleman had at
first favored the separation, he had opposed putting the act
of independence into force till North Carolina could be given
an opportunity to rectify the wrongs complained of, and it
was he who became the leader in the suppression of Sevier's
government. About March, 1788, a writ was issued by North
Carolina courts and executed against Sevier's estate, the sher
iff seizing his negroes, and taking them to the house of Col.
Tipton on Sinking creek for safe keeping . . . Sevier,
with 150 men and a light field-piece, marched to retake them,
and besieged Tipton and from thirty to forty of his men for
a couple of days, during which two or three men were killed
or wounded. Then the county lieutenant of Sullivan with
180 militia came to Tipton's rescue, surprised Sevier at dawn
on the last of February, 1788, killing one or two men and
taking two of Sevier's sons prisoners. Tipton was with dif
ficulty dissuaded from hanging them. This scrambling fight
marked the ignoble end of the State of Franklin. Sevier fled
to the uttermost part of the frontier, where no writs ran, and
the rough settlers were devoted to him. Here he speedily

STATE OF FRANKLIN 117
became engaged in the Indian war, during which some ma
rauding Indians killed eleven women and children of the fam
ily of John Kirk on Little river, seven miles south of Knox-
ville while Kirk and his eldest son were absent.
A Blot on Sevier's Escutcheon. Later on young Kirk
joined about forty men led by Sevier to a small Cherokee
town opposite Chilhowa. These Indians were well known to
have been friendly to the whites, and among them was Old
Tassel, or Corn Tassel, "who for years had been foremost in
the endeavor to keep the peace and to prevent raids on the
settlers. They put out a white flag; and the whites then
hoisted one themselves. On the strength of this, one of the
Indians crossed the river, and on demand of the whites fer
ried them over. Sevier put the Indians in a hut, and then a
horrible deed of infamy was perpetrated. Among Sevier's
troops was young John Kirk, whose mother, sisters and broth
ers had been so foully butchered by the Cherokee, Slim Tom
and his associates. Young Kirk's brutal soul was parched
with longing for revenge, and he was, both in mind and heart,
too nearly kin to his Indian foes greatly to care whether his
vengeance fell on the wrong-doers or on the innocent. He
entered the hut where the Cherokee chiefs were confined, and
brained them with his tomahawk, while his comrades looked
on without interfering. Sevier's friends asserted that he was
absent; but this is no excuse. He knew well the fierce blood-
lust of his followers, and it was criminal negligence to leave
to their mercy the friendly Indians who had trusted to his
good faith; and, moreover, he made no effort to punish the
murderer." The Horror of the Frontiersmen. Such was the indig
nation with which this deed was received by the better class
of backwoodsmen that Sevier's forces melted away, and he
was obliged to abandon a march he had planned against the
Chickamaugas. The Continental Congress passed resolutions
condemning such acts, and the justices of the court of Abbe
ville, S. C, with Andrew Pickens at their head "wrote to the
people living on NoUechucky, French Broad and Holstein"
denouncing in unmeasured terms the encroachments and out
rages of which Sevier and his backwoodsmen had been guilty.
"The governor of North Carolina, as soon as he heard the
news, ordered the arrest of Sevier and his associates [for trea-

118 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
son] doubtless as much because of their revolt against the
State as because of the atrocities they had committed against
the Indians. . . . The Governor of the State had given
orders to seize him because of his violation of the laws and
treaties in committing wanton murder on friendly Indians;
and a warrant to arrest him for high treason was issued by
the courts."
Sevier Is Arrested for High Treason. Sevier knew of
this warrant, and during the summer of 1788 led his bands of
wild horsemen on forays against the Cherokee towns, never
fighting a pitched battle, but by hard riding taking them by
surprise. As long as he remained on the frontier he was in
no danger; but late in October, 1788, he ventured back to
Jonesborough, where he drank freely and caroused with his
friends. He soon quarreled with one of Tipton's side, who
denounced him for the murder of Corn Tassel and the other
peaceful chiefs. "Finally they all rode away; but when some
miles out of town Sevier got into a quarrel with another man;
and after more drinking and brawling, he went to pass the
night at a house, the owner of which was his friend. Mean
time, one of the men with whom he had quarreled informed
Tipton that his foe was within his grasp. Tipton gathered
eight or ten men and early next morning surprised Sevier in
his lodgings. Sevier could do nothing but surrender, and Tip
ton put him in irons, and sent him across the mountains to
Morganton in North Carolina."
Dr. Ramsey's Account of the Arrest. In his Annals of
Tennessee (p. 427) this writer copies Haywood's History of
Tennessee : "The pursuers then went to the widow Brown's,
where Sevier was. Tipton and the party with him rushed
forward to the door of common entrance. It was about sun
rise. Mrs. Brown had just risen. Seeing a party with arms
at that early hour, well acquainted with Colonel Tipton, prob
ably rightly apprehending the cause of this visit, she sat her
self down in the front door to prevent their getting into the
house, which caused a considerable bustle between her and
Colonel Tipton. Sevier had slept near one end of the house
and, on hearing a noise, sprung from his bed and, looking
through a hole in the door-side, saw Colonel Love, upon which
he opened the door and held out his hand, saying to Colonel

STATE OF FRANKLIN 119
Love, 'I surrender to you.' Colonel Love led him to the
place where Tipton and Mrs. Brown were contending about
a passage into the house. Tipton, upon seeing Sevier, was
greatly enraged, and swore that he would hang him. Tipton
held a pistol in his hand, sometimes swearing he would shoot
him, and Sevier was really afraid that he would put his threat
into execution. Tipton at length became calm and ordered
Sevier to get his horse, for that he would carry him to Jones
boro. Sevier pressed Colonel Love to go with him to Jones
boro, which the latter consented to do. On the way he
requested of Colonel Love to use his influence that he might
not be sent over the mountains into North Carolina. Colonel
Love remonstrated to him against an imprisonment in Jones
boro, for, said he, 'Tipton will place a strong guard around
you there; your friends will attempt a rescue, and bloodshed
will be the result'. ... As soon as they arrived at
Jonesboro, Tipton ordered iron hand-cuffs to be put on him,
which was accordingly done. He then carried the governor
to the residence of Colonel Love and that of the widow Pugh,
whence he went home, leaving Sevier in the custody of the
deputy sheriff and two other men, with orders to carry him
to Morganton, and lower down, if he thought it necessary.
Colonel Love traveled with him till late in the evening.
"Before Colonel Love had left the guard, they had, at his
request, taken off the irons of their prisoner. ... A
few days afterwards James and John Sevier, sons of the Gov
ernor, . . . and some few others were seen by Colonel
Love following the way the guard had gone. . . . The
guard proceeded with him to Morganton where they deliv
ered him to William Morrison, the then high Sheriff of Burke
county. . . . General McDowell and General Joseph
McDoweU . . . both followed him immediately to
Morganton and there became his securities for a few days
to visit friends. He returned promptly. The sheriff then,
upon his own responsibility, let him have a few days more to
visit friends and acquaintances. . . . By this time his
two sons . . . and others, came into Morganton with
out any knowledge of the people there, who they were, or
what their business was. Court was . . . sitting in
Morganton and they were with the people, generally, without

120 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
suspicion. At night, when the court broke up and the people
dispersed, they, with the Governor, pushed forward towards
the mountains with the greatest rapidity, and before morning
arrived at them."
Roosevelt Repudiates the Sensational Account. In
a foot note on page 226, Vol. iv, Roosevelt says: "Ramsey
first copies Haywood and gives the account correctly. He
then adds a picturesque alternative, account — followed by
later writers — in which Sevier escapes in an open court on a
celebrated race mare. The basis for this last account, so far
as it has any basis at all, lies on statements made nearly
half a century after the event, and entirely unknown to Hay
wood. There is no evidence of any kind as to its truthfulness.
It must be set aside as mere fable." The late Judge A. C.
Avery, in 1889, published in the Morganton Weekly Herald
a third account, to the effect that after having been released
on bond a few days Sevier surrendered himself to the sheriff
of Burke and went to jail; that afterwards, when his case
was called the sheriff started with him to the court, but Se
vier's friends managed to get him separated from the sheriff
and to open a way for him to his horse then being held near
by. But this, too, rests upon what old men of thirty years
prior to 1889 said their fathers had told them.
Sevier's Second Treason Against the State. Miro
in New Orleans and Gardoqui in Washington, were the chief
representatives of Spain in America in 1778, and the unrest
"in the West had taken the form, not of attempting the
capture of Louisiana by force, but of obtaining concessions
from the Spaniards in return for favors to be rendered to
them. Clark and Robertson, Morgan, Brown and Innes,
Wilkinson and Sebastian, were all in correspondence with
Gardoqui and- Miro, in the endeavor to come to some profit
able agreement with them. Sevier now joined the number.
His new-born State had died; he was being prosecuted for
high treason; he was ready to go to any lengths against North
Carolina; and he clutched at the chance of help from the
Spaniards. At the time North Carolina was out of the Union
(not having yet ratified the Constitution) so Sevier committed
no offense against the Federal Government." So, when
Gardoqui heard of the fight between Sevier's and Tipton's men,

STATE OF FRANKLIN 121
he sent an emissary to Sevier, who was in the mood to grasp
"a helping hand stretched out from no matter what quarter."
He had no organized government back of him, but he was in
the midst of his successful Cherokee campaigns, and he knew
the reckless Indian fighters would gladly follow him in any
movement, if he had a chance of success. He felt that if he
were given money and arms, and the promise of outside assist
ance, he could yet win the day. He jumped at Gardoqui's
cautious offers; though careful not to promise to subject him
self to Spain, and doubtless with no idea of playing the part
of Spanish vassal longer than the needs of the moment required.
In July he wrote to Gardoqui, eager to strike a bargain with
him, and in September sent him two letters by the hand of
his son, James Sevier, who accompanied White [Gardoqui's
emissary] when the latter made his return journey to the
Federal Capital." In one of these letters he assured Gardo
qui "that the western people had grown to know that their
hopes of prosperity rested on Spain, and that the principal
people of Franklin were anxious to enter into an alliance with
and obtain commercial concessions from, the Spaniards. He
importuned Gardoqui for money, and for military aid, assur
ing him that the Spaniards could best accomplish their ends
by furnishing these supplies immediately, especially as the
struggle over the adoption of the Federal Constitution made
the time opportune for revolt. . . . He sent them to New
Orleans that Miro might hear and judge their plans, neverthe
less nothing came of the project, and doubtless only a few peo
ple in Franklin ever knew that it existed. As for Sevier,
when he saw that he was baffled, he suddenly became a Fed
eralist and an advocate of a strong central government; and
this, doubtless, not because of love of Federalism, but to
show his hostility to North Carolina, which had at first refused
to enter the new Union. Thus the last spark of independent
life flickered out in Franklin proper. The people who had set
tled on the Indian borders were left without government,
North Carolina regarding them as trespassers on the Indian
territory. They accordingly met and organized a rude gov
ernmental machine, on the model of the Commonwealth of
Franklin; and the wild little State existed as a separate and

122 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
independent republic until the new Federal government
included it in the territory south of the Ohio. " B
Washington county sent Sevier as a representative to the
North Carolina legislature in 1789, and late in that session
he was reluctantly admitted. He was also a member of the
first Congress of the United States from North Carolina,
March 4, 1789 to March 3, 1791, and was elected the first gov
ernor of Tennessee.
Sevier and Tipton. It must be admitted that Sevier had,
upon the repeal of the act of session "counselled his fellow
citizens to abandon the movement for a new State" 6 and after
the expiration of his term and the collapse of the Franklin
government he wrote to one of the opposing party, not per
sonaUy unfriendly to him, that he had been dragged into
the Franklin government by the people of the county; that
he wished to suspend hostilities, and was ready to abide by the
decision of the North Carolina legislature; but that he was
determined to share the fate of those who had stood by him,
whatever it might be. 7 John Tipton, on the other hand,
while favoring the formation of an independent State at the
outset, voted against putting the new government into imme
diate operation, presumably because he hoped that when the
mother State realized the seriousness of the defection in Wa
tauga, she would remedy the wrongs of which the frontiersmen
had complained. In this he was right; but when in Novem
ber, 1785, the convention met at Greenville to provide a per
manent constitution for the new State, he favored the adop
tion of a much more radical charter as a remedy for the ills
under which the people suffered than Sevier, whose influence
secured the adoption of the constitution of the very State
from which the western people had withdrawn. To some
this document favored by Tipton seems absurd, but it had
been drawn by no less a man than the redoubtable Sam Hous
ton, afterwards president of the Republic of Texas.
James Robertson. In May, 1771, James Robertson, his
brother Charles, and sixteen families from Wake county
reached Watauga, preceding Sevier by about one year. Rob
ertson at once became the brains of the settlement — its balance
wheel, so to speak. Robertson and Sevier proved themselves
to be, "with the exception of George Rogers Clark, the

STATE OF FRANKLIN 123
greatest of the first generation of trans- Alleghany Pioneers,"
for they were the fathers of the first self-governing body in
America. For there on the banks of the sparkling Watauga
Was cradled the spirit that conquered the West —
The spirit that, soaring o'er mountain and prairie,
E'en on the Pacific shore paused not for rest.
In 1779-1780 he founded the Cumberland settlement where
Nashville now stands, and Roosevelt gives him the chief
credit for the tuition under which those frontiersmen were
governed from the first, 8 though Richard Henderson was
present, counselling and aiding. When, however, Hender
son's title proved null, he returned home, while Robertson
remained, and piloted the settlers through the dangers of
that early day. Thus, though he had no share in Kings
Mountain, he was at that time doing a work quite as impor
tant as fighting the British; for he was guiding the most remote
of the western settlements in America on the difficult path
of self-government.
Sevier's Spring at Bakersville. There is a fine spring
at Bakersville, nearly in front of the old Penland House, now
the Young hotel, at which it is said that Sevier and his party
stopped and rested after leaving Morganton. About 1850 an
old sword was found near this spring, and was supposed to
have been lost by one of these mountaineers. They reached
Cathey's, or Cathoo's, plantation that night, after coming 20
miles from Elk Hollow, at the mouth of a small eastern tribu
tary of the North Toe flowing north from Gillespie's gap, and
called Grassy creek. Here they camped. It is near what is
now Spruce Pine on the line of the Carolina, Clinchfield and
Ohio Railroad. "On Friday the 29th they passed up Grassy
creek and through Gillespie's gap in the Blue Ridge, where
they divided; Campbell's men, at least, going six or seven
miles south to Henry Gillespie's, and a little below to Colonel
William Wofford's Fort, both in Turkey Cove; while the oth
ers pursued the old trace in a easterly direction, about the
same distance, to the North Cove, on the North Fork of the
Catawba, where they camped for the night in the woods, on
the bank of that stream, just above the mouth of Honeycutt's
creek."

124 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Sycamore Shoals Monument. Monuments have been
placed along this route to mark it permanently; Sycamore
Shoals, Tennessee, at Elk Hollow, at the mouth of Grassy
creek near Spruce Pine, and at the junction of Honeycutt's
creek and the North Fork, near a station on the C. C. & 0.
Railroad known as Linville Falls. The monument at Syca
more Shoals is beautiful, and was erected September 26, 1909,
by Bonny Kate, John Sevier and Sycamore Shoals chapters,
D. A. R. Here it was that the patriots on their way to
Kings Mountain assembled under Sevier, Shelby and Camp
bell, September 25, 1780. On the southern face is the inscrip
tion: "The Sword of the Lord and of Gideon." Also a
statement that Fort Watauga, the first settlers' fort built
west of the Alleghanies, was erected here in 1770. Also a
statement that "Here was negotiated the Treaty of Sycamore
Shoals under which Transylvania was acquired from the Cher
okees, March 19, 1775."
Robert Love. He was born near the Tinkling Spring
Meeting house, Augusta county, Va., May 11, 1760. His
father was Samuel, son of Ephraim Love, captain of the Col
onial Horse; and his mother Dorcas, second daughter of James
Bell, to whom had been issued on the formation of Augusta
county, October 30, 1745, a "commission of the Peace."9
Samuel Love and Dorcas Bell were married July 3, 1759.
Robert Love was christened by Rev. John Craig, who was
pastor of the Tinkling Spring church from 1740 to 1764. l °
It was at this old church that the eloquent James Waddell,
afterwards immortalized by Wm. Wirt, was pastor for sev
eral years, though he did not become "The Blind Preacher"
till after the Revolutionary War and he had removed to Gor-
donsville, his blindness having been caused by cataract. Robert
Love's pension papers show x x that he was on the expedition un
der Col. Christie in 1776 against the Cherokees; that he was at
Fort Henry on Long Island of the Holston in 1777; that he was
stationed in 1778 at the head of the Clinch and Sandy rivers
(Fort Robertson), and operated against the Shawnees from April
to October; that from 1779 to 1780 he was engaged against the
Tories on Tom's creek, New River, and Cripple creek, at
Moravian Old Town, and at the Shallow ford of the Yadkin,
under Col. Wm. Campbell; that in 1781 he was engaged in
Guilford county "and the adjoining county" against Corn-

STATE OF FRANKLIN 125
wallis, and "was in a severe battle with his army at White-
sell mill and the Rudy ford of the Haw river, under Gen.
Pickens; that from this place, with Capt. Wm. Doach, he was
sent back "from the rendezvous at the Lead Mines to col-
• lect and bring more men;" that in 1782 he "was again sta
tioned out on the frontiers of the Clinch, at Fort Robertson
. from June to October." He was living in Mont
gomery, now Wythe county, Va., when he entered the service
in 1776, and after the Revolutionary War, his parents being
dead, he moved with Wm. Gregory and his family to Wash
ington county, N. C. (now Tennessee), in the fall of 1782.
Having moved to Greasy Cove, now Erwin Tenn., he married
Mary Ann Dillard, daughter of Col. Thomas Dillard of
Pittsylvania county, Va., on the 11th day of September, 1783;
and on the 5th of April, 1833, he made application for a pen
sion under the act of Congress of June 7, 1832, attaching his
commission signed by Ben. Harrison, governor of Virginia;
but, a question having arisen as to the date of this commis
sion Andrew Jackson wrote from The Hermitage on October
12, 1837, to the effect that he had known Col. Love since the
fall of 1784, and that there "is no man in this Union who has
sustained a higher reputation for integrity than Col. Robert
Love, with all men and with all parties, although himself a
uniform democratic Republican, and that no man stands
deservedly higher as a man of great moral worth than Col.
Love has always stood in the estimation of all who knew him. "
Even this endorsement, however, did not serve to secure the
pension; but when E. H. McClure of Haywood filed an affi
davit to the effect that the date of the commission was 1781
or 1782, official red-tape had no other refuge, and granted the
pension. He was a delegate to the Greenville convention of
the State of Franklin, December 14, 1784, and voted to adopt
the constitution of North Carolina instead of that proposed
by Sam Houston. 1 2 In 1778 he was engaged against the Chick-
amauga Indians as colonel of a regiment operating near White's
fort. 1 3
He also drew a pension from the State (Colonial Records,
Vol. xxii, p. 74). He and John Blair represented Washing
ton county (formerly the State of Franklin) in the North
Carolina legislature in November, 1889 (Ibid., Vol. xxi, p.
194). Later in the same session John Sevier appeared and

126 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
was sworn in as an additional representative from the same
county (Ibid., pp. 584-85). Love was also a justice of the
peace for Washington county in October, 1788. (Ibid., Vol.
xxii, p. 702); and the journal of the North Carolina State
convention for the ratification of the constitution of the
United States shows that Robert Love, Landon Carter, John
Blair, Wm. Houston and Andrew Green were delegates, and
that Robert Love voted for its adoption. (Ibid., Vol. xxii,
pp. 36, 39, 47, 48).
He moved to Buncombe county, N. C, as early as 1792, and
represented that county in 1793, 1794, 1795 14 in the State
Senate. According to the affidavit of his brother, Gen. Thos.
Love, Robert Love "was an elector for president and vice-
president when Thomas Jefferson was elected, and has been
successively elected ever since, down to (and including) the
election of the present chief magistrate, Andrew Jackson. " 1 6
This affidavit is dated April 6, 1833. In a letter from Robert
Love to William Welch, dated at Raleigh, December 4, 1828,
he says that all the electors were present on the 3d "and gave
their votes in a very dignified manner and before a very large
concourse of people," the State House being crowded. 16 Fif
teen cannon were fired "for the number of electoral votes and
one for the county of Haywood, and for the zeal she appeared
to have had from the number of votes for the Old Hero's
Ticket. It was submitted to me to bring forward a motion
to proceed to ballot for a president of the United States
and of course you may be well assured that I
cheerfully nominated Andrew Jackson. ... I was much
gratified to have that honor and respect paid me. From the
most authentic accounts . . . Adams will not get a vote
south of the Potomac or west of the mountains. Wonderful
what a majority! For Jackson 178 and Adams only 83, leav
ing Jackson a majority of 95 votes. So much for a bargain
and intrigue." 17 The reason for firing an extra gun for Hay
wood county was because that county had cast a solid vote
for Robert Love as elector for Andrew Jackson, such staunch
Whigs as William Mitchell Davidson and Joseph Cathey hav
ing induced their fellow Whigs to refrain from voting out of
regard for their democratic friend and neighbor, Robert Love.
He carried the vote to Washington in a gig that year. He

STATE OF FRANKLIN 127
named the town of Waynesville for his friend "Mad" Anthony
Wayne, with whom he had served at Long Island during the
Revolution. In 1821 he was one of the commissioners who ran the bound
ary line between North Carolina and Tennessee from Pigeon
river south. On the 14th day of July, 1834, he was kicked
on the hip by a horse while in Green county, Tenn., and so
crippled that he had to use a crutch till his death. x 8 The gig,
too, had to be given up for a barouche, drawn by two horses
and driven by a coachman. His cue, his blue swallow-tailed
coat, and knee breeches with silver knee-buckles and silk
stockings are remembered yet by a few of the older people.
He died at Waynesville, July 17, 1845, "loved by his friends
and feared by his enemies."19 He was largely instrumental
in having Haywood county established, became its first clerk,
defeating Felix Walker for the position; and in 1828, he wrote
to Wm. Welch (December 4) from Raleigh: "The bill for
erecting a new county out of the western part of Burke and
northeastern part of Buncombe after severe debate fell in
the house of commons, on its second reading by a majority
against it of three only. The bill for the division of Haywood
county has passed the senate the third and last reading by a
majority of seven; and, I suppose, tomorrow it will be taken
up in the house of commons and in a few days we will know
its fate. I do not like the division line, but delicacy closes
my mouth for fear its being construed that interest was my
motive. " 2 °
He left an estate which "at one time was one of the largest
estates in North Carolina."21 "He acquired great wealth
and died respected, leaving a large fortune to his children."
He was the founder of Waynesville. "Besides the sites for the
public square, court-house and jail, land for the cemetery
and several churches was also the gift of Col. Love." Of
him and his brother Thomas, Col. Allen T. Davidson said:22
"These two men were certainly above the average of men,
and did much to plant civilization in the county where they
lived, and would have been men of mark in any community. "
Edmund Sams. In "Asheville's Centenary," Dr. Sond
ley tells us that this pioneer was "one of the first settlers who
came from Watauga," and established a ferry at the place

128 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
where the French Broad is now crossed by Smith's Bridge;
had been in early life an Indian fighter, and lived on the west
ern side of the French Broad at the old Gaston place. He
was later a soldier in the Revolution. In 1824 his son Ben-
oni Sams represented Buncombe in the House.
General Thomas Love. He was a brother of Robert Love,
and was born in Agusta county, Va., November 15, 1765.
The date of his death is not accurately known, as he removed
to Maury county, Tenn., about 1833, 23 Prof. W. C. Allen,
in his "Centennial of Haywood County", says (p. 55) that
he was a soldier of the Revolution, and served under Wash
ington," but this must have been towards the close of that
struggle, as he could not have been quite eleven years of age
on the 4th of July, 1776. 2 4 At the close of that war, however,
"he went to East Tennessee and was in the Sevier-Tipton
war when the abortive State of Franklin was attempted. " 2 5
Ramsey's "Annals of Tennessee" (p. 410) records the fact
that on one occasion one of Tipton's men had captured two
of Sevier's sons, and would have hanged them if Thomas
Love had not argued him out of his purpose. He was one of
Tipton's followers, but he showed Tipton the unworthiness
of such an act. "He came to what is now Haywood county
about the year 1790. When Buncombe was formed in 1791
he became active in the affairs of the new county, " continues
Prof. Allen. In 1797 he was elected to the house of commons
from Buncombe, and was re-elected till 1808, when Haywood
was formed, largely through his efforts. There is a tradition 2 6
that in 1796 he had been candidate against Philip Hoodenpile
who represented Buncombe in the commons that year, but
was defeated. For Hoodenpile could play the violin, and all
of Love's wiles were powerless to keep the political Eurydices
from following after this fiddling Orpheus. But Love bided
his time, and when the campaign of 1797 began he charged
Hoodenpile with showing contempt for the common herd by
playing the violin before them with his left hand; whereas,
when he played before "the quality," as Love declared, Hood
enpile always performed with his right hand. This charge
was repeated at all the voting places of the county, which
bore such significant names as Upper and Lower Hog Thief,
Hardscrabble, Pinch Stomach, etc. Hoodenpile who, of
course, could play only with his left hand, protested and

STATE OF FRANKLIN 129
denied; but the virus of class-feeling had been aroused, and
Hoodenpile went down in defeat, never to rise again, while
Love remained in Buncombe. "From the new county of
Haywood General Love was one of the first representatives,
the other having been Thomas Lenoir. Love was continu
ously re-elected from Haywood till 1829, with the exception
of the year 1816. Who it was that defeated him that year
does not appear, though John Stevenson and Wm. Welch were
elected to the house and Hodge Raborne to the senate. This
Hodge Raborne was a man of influence and standing in Hay
wood county, he having been elected to the senate not only
in 1816, but also from 1817 to 1823, inclusive, and again in
1838; but whether it was he or John Stevenson who defeated
Thomas Love, or whether he ran that year or no, cannot now
be determined. 2 7 William Welch was a nephew by marriage
of Thomas Love, and it is not likely that he opposed him.
Gen. Love moved to Macon county in 1830, where his wife
died and is buried in the Methodist church yard of the town
of Franklin. He was one of the commissioners for North
Carolina who ran the line between this State and South Caro
lina in 1814. 2S "He resided in Macon for several years, and
then removed to the Western District of Tennessee; was
elected to the legislature from that State, and was made pre
siding officer of the senate. He was a man of very fine appear
ance, more than six feet high, very popular, and a fine elec
tioneer. Many amusing stories are told of him, such as
carrying garden seeds in his pocket, and distributing them"
with his wife's special regards to the voter's wife. 2 9 His
service in the legislature for such an unprecedented length of
time was due more to his genial manner and electioneering
methods, perhaps, than to his statesmanship; though, unless
he secured what the voters most desired he would most prob
ably have been retired from public life. He never was
so retired.
A Curious Bit of History. William Blount, a native of
this State and brother of John Gray Blount to whom so much
land had been granted, was territorial governor of Tennessee
until it became a State, and was then elected one of its first
senators; but served only from 1796 to 1797. He was charged
in the United States senate with having entered into a con
spiracy to take Louisiana and Florida from Spain and give
W. N. C  9

130 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
them to England in the hope that England would prove a bet
ter neighbor than had Spain, which had restricted the use of
the Mississippi. Articles of impeachment were brought against
him in 1797 by the House, and on the day after he was expelled
by the Senate. But the impeachment trial was to have pro
ceeded, and an officer was sent to arrest him. But Blount refused
to go, those summoned to aid the officer refused to do so, and
the trial would have proceeded without him in December 1798,
if Blount's attorney had not appeared after the Senate had
formed itself into a court and filed a plea that Blount had not
been an officer of the United States when the offence charged
was committed, and it was decided, 14 to 11, that the Senate
had no jurisdiction, on the ground that a senator is not a civil
officer of the United States. The specific charge was that Blount
had made an attempt to carry into effect a hostile expedition
in favor of the British against the Spanish possessions in Flor
ida and Louisiana, and to enlist certain Indian tribes in the
same. 3 ° notes.
'Hill, p. 215.
2Ibid.
3Dropped Stitches, 28; McGee, p. 80.
'Roosevelt, Vol. IV, ch. 4.
'Ibid., 231.
=Ibid., 182.
'Ibid., 211.
"Ibid., Vol. Ill, 26.
•Waddell (First Edition), 20, 30, 33, 210, etseq. Ibid. (Second Edition), 288.
l0Augusta county records.
11Pension office files.
12Dropped Stitches, 28.
1 'Ramsey, 417, 427.
14W. C. Allen's "Centennial of Haywood county," p. 52.
15Robert Love's Pension Papers.
"Published in Waynesville Courier, but date of publication not known, except that it
was about 1895, probably.
"This refers to the alleged "puritan and blackleg trade" between Adams and Clay
four years before.
13W. C. Allen's "Centennial of Haywood County," 1908, p. 51.
19Ibid., p. 52.
"Private letter.
21W. C. Allen's "Centennial of Haywood County," p. 52.
22Col. A. T. Davidson's "Reminiscenses" in "The Lyceum," January, 1891.
"Prof. Allen says that he died about 1830, but he signed an affidavit in April 6, 1833,
in Robert Love's pension matter.
"Although but a boy, he was a private in the Continental Line. Col. Rec , Vol XXII
73. 2 'Allen, 55.
"Statement of Capt. J. M. Gudger, Sr.
"Wheeler, 54, 206. There is no other record that approaches this. Col. A. T. David
son in Lyceum, January, 1891.
"Rev. Stat. N. C, 1837, Vol. II, p. 87.
"The Lyceum, p. 9, January, 1891.
3 "Manual of the constitution of the United States, by Israel Ward Andrews, pp. 199, 200.

CHAPTER VII
GRANTS AND LITIGATION
Public Lands. Immediately upon the declaration of inde
pendence the State began to dispose of its immense tracts of
vacant lands. It was granted at first in 640-acre tracts to
each loyal citizen, with one hundred additional acres to his
wife and each child at five cents per acre; but for all in addi
tion to that amount, ten cents per acre was charged, if the
additional land was claimed within twelve months from the
end of the session of the legislature of 1777. 1 The price was
expressed in pounds, two pounds and ten shillings standing
for the lower and five pounds for the higher price. Ten cents
was the charge for all lands in 1818. No person in Washing
ton county, however, could take more than 640 acres and 100
additional for wife and each child, 2 until the legislature should
provide further; but the county was ceded as part of Tennes
see before this restriction was removed. When the State ac
quired the Cherokee lands it reduced the price per acre in
1833 to five cents per acre again; but it was afterwards
restored to ten cents where it remained for a long time.
There is also a curious proviso in the act of 1779 (ch. 140, s.
5) to the effect that no person shall be entitled "to claim any
greater quantity of land than 640 acres where the survey
shall be bounded in any part by vacant lands, or more than
1,000 acres between the lines of lands already surveyed and
laid out for any other person." Both the provision for the
payment of five pounds for all in excess of 640 acres, etc., in
any one year, and this last proviso, seem to have been dis
regarded from the first; for in 1796 the State granted to John
Gray Blount over one million acres in Buncombe for fifty
shillings a hundred acres. Under a statute allowing swamp lands
to be granted in one body land speculators laid their entries
adjoining each other in 640-acre tracts, and took out one
grant for the entire boundary. 3 These large tracts usually
excepted a considerable acreage from the boundary granted,
which acreage had been determined by the secretary of state
(131)

132 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
from the surveys made upon the warrants; but unless the
grants themselves showed upon their face the number of acres
of each tract and the names of the grantees to the excepted
lands, the grantees could not show title by proving dehors
that their land lay within the limits of the granted tract, as
such excepted acreage merely, was held to be too vague to
confer title; but the boundaries of these excepted tracts could
be determined by the Secretary of State, and shown by certified
copies from his office. 4
Cherokee Lands. Up to 1826 all lands had been ranked
alike; but with the acquisition of the large Cherokee terri
tory, with bottom, second bottom, hill, timber, mountain and
cliff lands, a classification was imperative. So in that year
commissioners were appointed to ascertain all the Cherokee
lands that were worth more than fifty cents an acre, lay them
off into sections containing from fifty to three hundred acres,
and to note the quality of the land, stating whether it was
first, second or third. 6 But this limited classification was
soon found to be inadequate, and in 1836 commissioners were
required to ascertain all unsold Cherokee lands as would sell
for 20 cents per acre and over, and divide them into sections
or districts and expose them for public sale; lands of the first
quality to be sold for four dollars per acre; lands of the sec
ond quality for two dollars per acre; lands of the third quality
for one dollar per acre; lands of the fourth quality for fifty
cents per acre and lands of the fifth quality for not less than
twenty cents per acre.6 The surveyor was also required to
note in his field-book the mines, mineral springs, mill seats,
and principal water-courses; and to make three maps before
November 1, 1837, one of which was to be deposited in the
governor's office, the second in the office of the secretary of
state, and the third in the office of the county clerk of the
county of Macon. AU the lands worth less than twenty
cents per acre were denominated vacant and unsurveyed
lands, but they could be entered, while those classified could
be bought only at auction.
How Lands Were to be Surveyed. These surveyed and
classified tracts were to be bounded by natural boundaries or
right lines running east and west, north and south, and to
be an exact square or oblong, the length not to exceed double
the breadth, unless where such lines should interfere with lands

GRANTS AND LITIGATION 133
already granted or surveyed, or should bound on navigable
water, in which last case the water should form one side of the
survey, etc.
Preferences. Those who had made entries under the
crown or Lord Granville, or, who since his death had made
improvements on the lands were to have preference in enter
ing them. 7
Indian Bounds. 8 In 1778 (ch. 132) it was provided that
no lands within the Indian boundaries should be entered, sur
veyed or granted, and those boundaries were described as
starting from a point on the dividing line agreed upon between
the Cherokees and Virginia where the Virginia and North
Carolina line shall cross the same when run; thence a right line
to the north bank of the Holston river, at the mouth of Clouds
creek, which was the second creek below the Warrior's ford
at the mouth of Carter's valley; thence a right line to the
highest point of High Rock or Chimney Top; thence a right
line to the mouth of Camp or McNamee's creek on the south
bank of NoUechucky river, about ten miles below the mouth
of Great Limestone; and from the mouth of Camp creek a
southeast course to the top of the Great Iron mountain; and
thence a south course to the dividing ridge between the waters
of French Broad and NoUechucky rivers; thence a south-
westwardly course along said ridge to the Blue Ridge, and
thence along the Blue Ridge to the South Carolina line. This
excluded from entry and grant all of the mountain region
west of the Blue Ridge that was south of the ridge between
the French Broad and the NoUechucky rivers; but opened
a territory now covered by the counties of Alleghany, Ashe,
Watauga, Avery, Mitchell and a part of Yancey, and a good
deal of the northeastern corner of what is now Tennessee.
Houses of Worship on Vacant Lands. 9 All churches on
vacant lands were given outright to the denominations which
had built them, together with two acres adjoining.
Officers and Soldiers of the Continental Line. In
1782 (ch. 173), each soldier and officer of the Continental
line, then in service and who continued to the end of the
war; or who had been disabled in the service, and subse
quently all who had served two years honorably and had
not re-enlisted or had been dropped on reducing the forces,
were given lands as follows :

134 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Privates 640 acres each; Non-commissioned officers 1000
acres each; Subalterns 2560 each; Captains 3840 each; Majors
4800 each; Lieut.-Colonels 7200 each; Lieut.-Colonel Com
manders 7200 each; Colonels 7200 each; Brigadiers 12000
each; Chaplains 7200 each; Surgeons 4800 each; and Sur
geons Mates 2560 each. Three commissioners and a guard
of 100 men were authorized to lay off these lands without
expense to the soldiers.
Lands for Soldiers of the Continental Line. In 1783
(ch. 186) the following land was reserved for the soldiers and
officers of the Continental line for three years : Beginning on
the Virginia line where Cumberland river intersects the same;
thence south fifty-five miles; thence west to the Tennessee
river; thence down the Tennessee river to the Virginia line;
thence with the Virginia line east to the beginning." This
was a lordly domain, embracing Nashville and the Duck
river country which was largely settled up by people from
Buncombe county, including some of the Davidsons and
General Thomas Love, who moved there about 1830. For
it will be remembered that in the act of cession of the Ten
nessee territory it was expressly provided that in case the
lands laid off for "the officers and soldiers of the Continental
line" shall not "contain a sufficient quantity of lands for
cultivation to make good the quota intended by law for each,
such officer or soldier who shall fall short of his proportion
shall make up the deficiency out of the lands of the ceded
territory." But, while preference was given to the soldiers
in these lands, they were not restricted to them, but could
enter and get grants for any other land that was open for
such purposes.
The Forehandedness of Certain Officers. From Hart's
"Formation of the Union," Sec. 51, we learn that although
Congress had provided bounty lands for the soldiers of the
Revolution, our officers demanded something better for them
selves; and, to appease them, Congress, on the 26th of April,
1778, had voted them half pay for life, as an essential measure
for keeping the army together. This caused great dissatis
faction; but on the 10th of March, 1783, the so-called "New-
burgh Address" appeared. This anonymous document urged
the officers of the army not to separate until Congress had
done justice to them; and on the 22d of March following,

GRANTS AND LITIGATION 135
Washington used his influence to induce Congress to grant
the officers full pay for the ensuing five years. This was
done; but as the treasury was empty, certificates of indebt
edness were issued in lieu of cash. These certificates bore
interest. But in June, 1783, 300 mutineers surrounded the
place of meeting of Congress, and demanded a settlement of
the back pay; and the executive council of Pennsylvania
declined to disperse them. This caused Congress to leave
Philadelphia forever.
Revolutionary Pensions. x ° On August 26, 1776, Con
gress promised, by a resolution, to the officers and soldiers of
the army and navy who might be disabled in the service, a
pension, to continue during the continuance of their disa
bilities; and on June 7, 1785, recommended that the several
States should make provision for the army, navy and militia
pensioners resident within them, to be reimbursed by Congress.
On September 29, an act was passed providing that the mili
tary pensions which had been granted and paid by the States,
respectively, in pursuance of the foregoing acts, to invalids
who were wounded and disabled during the late war, should
be paid by the United States from the fourth day of March,
1789, for the space of one year; and the act of March 26,
1790, appropriated $96,000.72 for paying pensions which may
become due to invalids. The act of April 30, 1790, provides
for one-half pay pensions to soldiers of the regular army dis
abled while in line of duty; and the act of July 16, 1790, pro
vides that the military pensions which have been granted and
paid by the States respectively shall be continued and paid
by the United States from the fourth of March, 1790, for
the space of one year.
The first general act providing for the pensioning of all
disabled in the actual service of the United States during the
Revolutionary War was the act approved March 10, 1806,
which was to remain in force but six years, but was subse
quently extended and kept in force by acts of April 25, 1812,
May 15, 1820, February 4, 1822, and May 24, 1828. x 1
Land Speculation. Immediately after the formation of
Buncombe the rush began, and large grants were issued to
Stokely Donelson, Waightstill Avery, William Cathcart, David
Allison and John Gray Blount, besides many others. The
Flowery Garden tract on Pigeon was regarded as of the finest

136 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
quality of land, and was granted to one of the McDowells.
As the boundaries of the Cherokees were moved westward
the same greed for land continued, and many large boundaries
were entered, Robert and James R. Love of Waynesville hav
ing obtained tracts — those belonging to the Love speculation
in 1865 containing in Haywood two hundred thousand, in
Jackson fifty thousand, and one hundred and twenty-five
thousand acres, in two tracts in Swain; a total of 375,000
acres in all.
Enlargement of the Western Boundary. 1 2 In 1783
(ch. 185) the western boundary was enlarged so as to take
in all lands south of the Virginia line and west of the Ten
nessee river to the Mississippi, then down that stream to
the 35th parallel of north latitude; thence due east to the
Appalachian mountains, and thence with them to the ridge
between the French Broad and the NoUechucky [sic] river,
and with that line till it strikes the line of the Indian Hunt
ing grounds, set forth in chapter 132 of the laws of 1778.
This, however, was superceded by the Act of Cession, 1789,
ch. 299, accepted by Congress, April 2, 1790, Vol. ii, p. 85,
note on p. 455.
Entries West of the Mississippi Void. x 3 It would seem
that some of our enterprising citizens had been entering lands
west of the Mississippi river at some time prior to 1783, for
there is an act of that year (ch. 185) which declares that all
entries of land heretofore made, or grants already obtained,
or which may be hereafter obtained in consequence of the
aforesaid entries of land, to the westward of the line last above
described in this act . . . are hereby declared to be null
and void. . . . "
Entries of Indian Lands Void. 1 4 Section 5 of the act of
1783 (ch. 185) reserves certain of the lands to the Indians,
which embrace part of the enlarged western boundary, with
the Pigeon river as the eastern boundary, including the ridge
between its waters and those of the Tuckaseegee river to the
South Carolina line. All entries of such lands were void and
all hunting and ranging of stock thereon were prohibited. But
all other lands not reserved to the Indians were subject to entry;
but at the price of five pounds per hundred acres.
Entry Taker's Office Closed in 1784. 1 6 By chapter 196
of the laws of 1784 North Carolina passed an act to remove

GRANTS AND LITIGATION 137
all doubts as to the ceded territory of Tennessee by expressly
retaining jurisdiction over it till Congress should accept it;
but until Congress did accept it it was considered "just and
right that no further entries of lands within the territory
aforesaid should be allowed until the Congress [should] refuse
the cession. " Therefore, it closed the entry taker's office and
declared void all entries made subsequent to the 25th of May,
1784, John Armstrong having been the entry-taker; except
"such entries of lands as shall be made by the commissioners,
agents and surveyors who extended the lines allotted to the
Continental officers and soldiers, and the guards and hunters,
chain-carriers and markers "who had alloted the lands to the
soldiers." This, however, applied only to the ceded territory
of Tennessee.
Grants to John Gray Blount and David Allison. Two
of the largest grants of land West of the Blue Ridge were to
John Gray Blount of Beaufort, North Carolina, and David
Allison. The grant to Blount called for "320,640 acres and
is dated November 29, 1796. 1 6 It began in the Swannanoa
gap and ran to Flat creek, and thence to Swannanoa river
and to its mouth; thence down the French Broad to the
Painted Rock; thence to the Bald mountain, thence to NoUe
chucky river, or Toe, thence to Crabtree creek, and thence
to the beginning. The grant to David Allison is for 250,240
acres and is dated November 29, 1796. 1 7 1 8 This land lies on
Hominy creek, Mills and Davidson's rivers, Scott's creek,
Big Pigeon and down it to Twelve-Mile creek to the French
Broad and to the beginning. These lands were sold Septem
ber 19, 1798, by James Hughey, Sheriff of Buncombe, for
the taxes of 1796, and were purchased by John Strother of
Beaufort for £115, 15 shillings, and the Sheriff gave him a
deed dated September 29, 1798. 1 9 Strother sold some of
these lands and made deeds to them, and in each deed he
recited this Sheriff's deed as his source of title. 2 ° Strother
was the friend and agent of John Gray Blount, and it is not
clearly known why this large body of land was suffered to go
on sale for the nonpayment of taxes, only to be bought in
by the man whose duty it had been, presumably, to see that
the taxes were paid. But it is certain that, on the 22d of
November, 1806, Strother made his last will (describing him
self as of Buncombe county) and devised all of the lands he

138 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
had received through Sheriff Hughey's deed as formerly be
longing to John Gray Blount to that gentleman, describing
him as his "beloved friend." This will was admitted to pro
bate in Davidson County, Tennessee, March 1, 1816, and
later on in Haywood and Madison counties, North Carolina.
It was executed according to North Carolina laws of that
date; but only one of the two subscribing witnesses to it was
examined and he omitted to state that he had subscribed his
name in the presence of the other subscribing witness. Chap
ter 52 of the Private Laws of 1885 validated this defective
probate. The constitutionality of the act was questioned nev
ertheless, in Vanderbilt v. Johnston (141 N. C, p. 370) but
upheld by the Supreme Court on the ground that only the
heirs of Blount or Strother could object to the probate.
Love Speculation. After the death of Strother, Robert
Love became the agent of the executors of J. G. Blount for
the sale of these lands 2 1, but, on the 10th of December, 1834,
these executors conveyed what was left of the Blount lands
to Robert and James R. Love of Haywood county for $3,000.
This deed, however, was not recorded till October 5, 1842, it
having been probated by the late R. M. Henry, a subscribing
witness, before Richmond M. Pearson, October 2, 1839, who
for years was the Chief Justice of this State. 2 2
The Cathcart Grants. Other large tracts were granted to
William Cathcart in July, 1796, 33,280 at the head of Jona
than's creek, and covering Oconalufty and Tuckaseegee river;
49,920, on Tuckaseegee river and Cane creek, "passing Wain's
sugar house in a sugar tree cove, " 2 3 and a like acreage on
Scott's and Cane creeks. Much of this lay west of the divide
between the headwaters of Pigeon river and those of Tucka
seegee river in what is now Jackson, and which was not sub
ject to entry and grant in July, 1796, because it had been
reserved to the Cherokee Indians by North Carolina by an
act of 1783. (Sec. 2347, Code of N. C.) The State being
the sovereign, the fee in such lands reverted to it whenever
a new treaty with the Indians removed their boundary fur
ther west; which had happened by the treaty of Holston made
in July, 1791 and that of Tellico, made afterwards. If Cath
cart had taken out a new grant to this part of the land after
that treaty his title thereto would have been good. But he
did not.

James Robert Love.

GRANTS AND LITIGATION 139
Latimer v. Poteet. The question as to the validity of the
Cathcart grant to land west of that divide came up in Lati
mer v. Poteet (14 Peters U. S. Reports, p. 4), in which it was
decided that while there may have been doubt as to the loca
tion of the eastern line of the Cherokees — subsequently known
as the Meigs and Freeman line — the parties to that treaty
had the right to determine disputes as to its location and
remove uncertainties and defects, and that private rights could
not be interposed to prevent the exercise of that power; which
was tantamount to saying that Cathcart's title to that part
of the land was null.
Brown v. Brown. 2 4 But, as land grew more valuable
on account of the timber on it, the same question was brought
up in the State court when a grant was taken to a part of the
land which had been granted to David Allison in November,
1796, and lay west of the reservation divide between Pigeon
and Tuckaseegee. This land had been sold by the heirs of
Robert Love, who held under the deed from Sheriff Hughey,
of September 29, 1798. On the trial of the case in the Supe
rior Court, the judge held that the last grant was valid and that
the original grant to Allison in 1796 was invalid. On appeal,
great consternation was caused in the fall of 1888 by the
decision of the Supreme Court (in Brown v. Brown, 103 N. C, p.
213) to the effect that all grants of land extending west of the
"dividing ridge between the waters of Pigeon river and Tuck
aseegee river to the southern boundary of this State, were
utterly void" (Code N. C, sections 2346-47) because when
granted they were "within the boundary prescribed of the lands
set apart to and for the Cherokee Indians." It was further
held "that the treaty of Holston, concluded on the 2d day of
July, 1791, between the United States and the Cherokee
Indians, did not "extinguish the title and right of those Indians
to the territory embracing the lands embraced by the grant
in question" — that to David Allison, of date 29th November,
1796. Immediately there was a rush to enter and secure grants
to all lands to which grants had been issued west of the divid
ing ridge between the Pigeon and the Tuckaseegee. Where
would the effect of that decision reach? No one knew. But,
on a petition for a rehearing, Chief Justice Merrimon discov
ered "among a vast number of very old uncurrent statutes"
one (Acts 1784, 1 Pot. Rev., ch. 202) that required surveyors

140 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
in the "eastern part of the State" to survey lands that any
person or persons "have entered or may hereafter enter";
which was afterwards extended (Acts 1794, 1 Pot. Rev., ch.
422; Haywood's Manual, p. 188) to apply to "all lands in this
State lying to the eastward of the line of the ceded territory,"
which was construed to mean "all the lands of this State not
speciaUy devoted to some particular purpose, and the impli
cation intended was that they should be subject to entry and
survey just as were the lands mentioned in the statutes
amended, " it having been the purpose to embrace "the lands so
acquired from the Cherokee Indians." Hence, the words,
"lying to the eastward of the line of ceded territory"; this
was the line separating this State from Tennessee which had
been ceded to the United States in 1789; while the land ac
quired from the Indians by the treaty of Holston "lay imme
diately to the eastward of a part of that line." In the lan
guage of the chief justice, "it is fortunate that it has been
discovered, as it rendered the land subject to entry and makes
valid and sustains the grant in question, under which, no
doubt, many excellent people derive title to their land."
Upon the rehearing (106 N. C, 451) the Supreme court held
that by an act of 1777 it was made lawful for any citizen of
the State "to enter any lands not granted before the fourth
of July, 1776, which have accrued or shall accrue to this State
by treaty or conquest"; and that the title of the Indians to
all lands east of the Holston treaty line were extinguished.
This line had been fixed by the Meigs and Freeman survey,
which location the State could not without breach of faith
question; and the land in controversy, while lying west of the
reservation of 1784, was east of the Meigs and Freeman sur
vey. This settled the dispute.
Waightstill Avery Grants. About 1785 Hon. Waight-
still Avery of Burke took out "hundreds of grants," gener
ally for 640-acre tracts, covering almost the entire valley of
North Toe river, from its source to somewhere below Toe-
cane, there being, here and there, along the valley, some
older grant wedged in between his tracts. He took out grants
also for lands on most all of the tributaries of the North Toe,
including the lower part of Squirrel creek, of Roaring creek,
of Henson's creek and of Three-Mile creek25 and also along
the lower valley of South Toe and of Linville river, down to

GRANTS AND LITIGATION 141
the Falls, and the upper valley of Pigeon in Haywood county
and of Mills river in Henderson and Transylvania. .
William Cathcart took out in 1795 two large grants, one
known as the "99,000-Acre Tract," and the other as the
"59,000-Acre Tract," which two large boundaries covered
practically all of Mitchell county and of Avery county, except
some tracts along the Blue Ridge. . . . "26 They also
covered about all that had been previously granted to Waigh-
still Avery. For the litigation that subsequently ensued see
"Cranberry Mine" under chapter on "Mines and Mining."
Many grants were also made to William Lenoir and others.
Cherokee Lands. By the act of 1819 27 no portion of
the lands recently acquired from the Cherokees was required
to be surveyed except such that, in the opinion of the commis
sioners appointed for that purpose, would sell for fifty cents
per acre and over, while the rest was reserved for future dis
position to be made by a subsequent legislature, and the act
of 1826 required such lands to be classified into three tracts,
as we have already seen. This was to be sold at auction,
and in the meantime, no land not subject to survey — that is
not worth fifty cents an acre or more — was subject to entry.
But by the act of 1835 2 8 all such lands as were not worth
fifty cents an acre were made subject to entry. Under the
law of 1836 2 9 the Cherokee lands were required to be laid
off into districts, which were to be numbered, and divided into
tracts of from fifty to four hundred acres each, the first class
of which was to be sold at auction for not less than $4 per acre,
the second class for not less than $2, the third class for not
less than $1, the fourth cla^s for not less than fifty cents, and
the fifth class for not less than 25 cents per acre. All the rest
of the Cherokee lands which were not considered by the com
missioners to be worth at auction more than 20 cents per
acre were subject to entry. The surveyors were to note all
the mines, mill sites, etc., on each tract, and three maps were
to be made, showing the lands surveyed and the "vacant
and unsurveyed lands, " one of which was to be deposited in the
office of the governor, another in the office of the secretary of
state at Raleigh, and the third in the office of the register of
deeds in Franklin, Macon county.
Act for the Relief of Purchasers of Lands. Under
this act of 1836 several purchasers found that they could not

142 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
pay for the lands bid in by them at the auction sales, and in
1844-45 another act was passed providing that such persons
might surrender such lands, after which the lands were to be
reassessed by commissioners, when they could be repur
chased by the former bidders at the new valuation by giving
bonds with good security, if they so desired, and if not, then
they could be sold at the new valuation to anyone. This
law also provided for the sale of such lands as had not been
sold at all under the first appraisement of their value, and for
the relief of such poor and homeless people as had settled on
the less valuable lands and had made improvements thereon
in the hope of being able to pay for them at some future time
and had been unable to do so, as well as for insolvent people
who had been unable to pay for lands they had bought. New
valuations were to be made and certificates given to such
persons, which certificates gave them preemption rights for the
purchase of such lands upon giving good bonds for the payment
of the purchase price. Much of the best lands were subse
quently held under these "Occupation Tracts," they having
the refusal of the lands they had settled on and improved.
Floating Entries. Such entries were those which stated in
the entry that land beginning on a natural object in a certain
district had been entered but, without further description, they
were void against enterers whose surveys covered it.
notes.
'Potter's Revisal, p. 275.
2lbid., p. 280.
'Melton v. Munday, (64 N. C. Rep., p. 295); Waugh v. Richardson, 8 Ired Law, (30 N C
p. 470). •Potter's Revisal, p. 463.
>2 Vol. Rev. St. 1837, p. 201.
«Ibid., pp. 210-11.
'Potter's Revisal, p. 280.
•Ibid., p. 355.
"Potter's Revisal, p. 356.
'•Potter's Revisal, p. 442.
"From "Dropped Stitches", pp. 71-72.
12P otter's Revisal, p. 435.
"Ibid., p. 456.
"Ibid., p. 436.
"Potter's Revisal, p. 457.
"Book No. 4, p. 230.
"Book 2, p. 458.
1843,534 acres already granted are excepted from this boundary
"Book 4, p. 230.
2 "The lands embraced in this sale aggregated one million and seventy-four thousand
acres. The tax title stood all tests. Love v. W ilbourn, 5 Ired.. N. C ReD r> 344
"Will Book E, p. 42. p' '
"Book 22, p. 88.
"Book 22, p. 393.
"Daniel Webster represented the defendant in this case, and Chief Justice Roger B.
Taney filed a dissenting opinion.
"So called because it is almost exactly three miles in length.
"From letter of December 5, 1912, from Hon. A. C. Avery to J P A
"Rev. St. 1837, Vol. II, p. 190.
"Ibid., p. 209.
"Ibid., p. 210.
Note : For Forge Bounty grants see ch. 293, laws 1788, Potter's Revisal, p. 592.

CHAPTER VIII
COUNTY HISTORY
Buncombe County. j In 1781 or 1782 settlers from the
blockhouse at Old Fort, McDowell county as it is now, crossed
the mountains to the head of the Swannanoa river, and became
trespassers on the Cherokee territory, the Blue Ridge at that
time being the boundary line. Samuel Davidson, his wife and
child were among the first. They brought a female negro
slave with them, and settled a short distance east of Gudger's
ford of Swannanoa river, and near what is now Azalia. He
was soon afterwards killed by Indians, and his wife and child
and slave hurried through the mountains back to Old Fort.
An expedition to avenge his death set out, with the late
Major Ben. Burgin, who died at Old Fort in November, 1874,
at the age of ninety-five, among the number and conquered
the Indians at the mouth of Rock House creek. By this
time, however, several other settlements had been effected
on the Swannanoa from its head to its mouth by the Alex
anders, Davidsons, Smiths and others, the earliest being about
the mouth of Bee Tree creek, a little above this being the
Edmundson field, the first cleared in Buncombe. Soon an
other company passed through Bull gap and settled on upper
Reems creek, while still others came in by way of what is
now Yancey county and settled on lower Reems and Flat
creeks. Some of the people who had been with Sevier at
Watauga settlement settled on the French Broad above the
mouth of Swannanoa, and on Hominy creek. Some from
South Carolina settled still higher on the French Broad.
The Cheery Name of Buncombe. 2 The Swannanoa was
now recognized as the dividing line between Burke and Ruth
erford counties, from portions of which counties Buncombe
was subsequently formed, and named for Edward Buncombe,
who had been a colonel in the Revolutionary War. 3 In 1791
David Vance and William Davidson, the former representing
Burke and the latter Rutherford, agreed upon the formation
of a new county from portions of both these counties west of
the Blue Ridge, its western boundary to be the Tennessee line.
(143)

144 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
First Court at the Gum Spring. 4 In April, 1792, at the
residence of Col. William Davidson on the south bank of the
Swannanoa, half a mile above its mouth, subsequently called
the Gum Spring place, Buncombe county was organized, pur
suant to the act which had been ratified January 14, 1792.
On December 31, 1792, another act recited that the com
missioners provided for in the first act had failed to fix "the
center and agree where public buildings" should be erected,
and appointed Joshua Inglish, Archibald Neill, James Wilson,
Augustin Shote, George Baker and John Dillard of Buncombe,
and Wm. Morrison of Burke, commissioners, in place of Phil
lip Hoodenpile, William Brittain, Wm. Whitson, James Brit-
tain and Lemuel Clayton, who had failed to agree, to select
a county seat. There was rivalry for this position, many
contending for the "Steam Saw Mill Place on the road after
wards known as the Buncombe Turnpike Road about three
miles south of Asheville, where Dr. J. F. E. Hardy re
sided at the time of his death," says Dr. Sondley in his
Asheville's Centenary. They selected the present site, which
at first was called Morristown. As the Superior Court was
at this time held at Morganton, five men from Buncombe
were required to serve there as jurors, for the July term,
1792. These were Matthew Patton, Wm. Davidson, David
Vance, Lambert Clayton and James Brittain. The first
court house stood in the middle of the street upon the public
square at the head of what is now Patton avenue, and was of
logs. The first county court held there was on the third Mon
day in July,1793. In January, 1796, commissioners were ap
pointed to lay off a plan for public buildings; but in April, 1802,
the grand jury complained that the county had no title to the
land on which the jail, etc., stood, and in April, 1805, steps
were taken to secure land for a public square. In April,
1807, the county trustee, or treasurer, was ordered to pay
Robert Love one pound for registering five deeds made by
individuals for a public square. . . . The next court
house was made of brick, a little further east, in the erection
of which the late Nicholas W. Woodfin, while a poor boy,
carried brick and mortar. This gave way to a handsome
brick building fronting on Main street, which was destroyed
by fire on the 26th day of January, 1865. Some years later
a small one-story brick structure was built nearly in front

COUNTY HISTORY 145
of W. 0. Wolf's storeroom, the late Rev. B. H. Merrimon
having been the contractor. In 1876 this gave way to a
larger building with three stories, J. A. Tennent being the
architect. In the erection of this a workman fell from the
southwest corner of the tower to the ground and was killed.
His name has been forgotten. The first jail was succeeded
by a brick building now a part of the Library building; but
a new jail was built afterwards on the site of the present
city hall, its site being sold to the city when the Eagle street
jail was built some years afterwards. The first jail was a
very poor structure, every sheriff from 1799 to 1811 com
plaining of its insufficiency. In 1867 the county began to
sell off portions of the public square on the north and south
sides, thus reducing it to its present dimensions.
Morristown. John Burton's grant was "by private con
tract laid out . . . for a town called Morristown, the
county town of Buncombe county, into 42 lots, containing,
with the exception of the two at the southern end, one-half
an acre each, lying on both sides of a street 33 feet wide,"
which runs where the southern part of North Main street
and the northern part of South Main street now are. 5 There
were two cross streets across the public square. "Nobody
seems to know why the name of Morristown was bestowed
upon the place . . . but there is a seemingly authentic
tradition that it was named for Robert Morris, who success
fully financed the American Revolution, yet himself died a
bankrupt. " 6 About this time he owned large bodies of land
in Western North Carolina; indeed it is shown in the record
of one case in the Federal Court here (Asheville) that Robert
Tate of York county, Pennsylvania, and William Tate, of
Burke county, N. C, conveyed to him in one deed 198 tracts
of land, only one tract of which, containing 70,400 acres and
lying in what are now Yancey, Burke, and McDowell coun
ties, was involved in that litigation. The State grant for
these lands was issued to Robert and William Tate on May
30, 1795, and they conveyed the same lands to Morris on
August 15 of the same year. "The Tates were evidently the
agents of Morris. . . . Morris was one of the heroes of
the Revolution, and . . . it is small wonder that . .
the people . . . should name it for him." His will
(dated in 1804) was probated in McDowell county on April
W. N.C.  10

146 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
21, 1891. In November 1797, the village was incorporated
by the legislature as Asheville in honor of Samuel Ashe of
New Hanover, governor.
Old Asheville. On Thanksgiving Day, 1895, Miss Anna
C. Aston, Miss Frances L. Patton and other ladies published
a "Woman's Edition" of the Asheville Daily Citizen. It con
tained much valuable and important information of that
city. But in February, 1898, Foster A. Sondley, Esq., a de
scendant of the Fosters and Alexanders of Buncombe county,
and a leading member of the Asheville Bar, published a his
torical sketch of Buncombe county and Asheville, contain
ing practically all that could then be ascertained concerning
the early history of this section. Hon. Theo. F. Davidson
and the late Albert T. Summey also contributed their recol
lections. There was a woodcut reproduction of an oil paint
ing of Asheville by F. S. Duncanson, which was taken from
Beaucatcher, and it appears that there were not more than
twenty five residences in 1850 that were visible from that
commanding eminence, all the buildings, including outhouses,
not exceeding forty, and they were between Atkin, Market
and Church streets. The painting itself, now owned by Mrs.
Martha B. Patton, shows five brick buildings, the old Pres
byterian church, on the site of the present one, with the cupola
on its eastern end, because the street ran there; the little old
Episcopal church, on the site of the burned Trinity; the old
jail, standing where the city hall now stands; Ravenscroft
school, and the Rowley house, now occupied by the Drhumor
building. The old jail was three stories high. The other
buildings were white wooden structures, and included the
central portion of the old Eagle hotel and the old Buck hotel.
Mr. Ernest Israel also has a similar picture.
Dr. J. S. T. Baird's facile pen has given us an equally vivid
picture of Asheville in his "Historical Sketches of Early
Days," published in the Asheville Saturday Register during
January, February and March, 1905, as it appeared in 1840.
He records the facts that the white population then did not
exceed 300, and the total number of slaves, owned by eight or
nine persons, did not exceed 200. In the 400 acres embracing
the northeastern section of the city, between the angle formed
by North Main and Woodfin streets, he recalled but two
dwellings, those of Hon. N. W. Woodfin and Rev. David

COUNTY HISTORY 147
McAnally, both on Woodfin street. There was an old tan
nery and a little school house near the beginning of what is
now Merrimon avenue, the school having been taught by
Miss Katy Parks, who afterwards became Mrs. Katy Bell,
mother of Rev. George Bell of Haw Creek. This 400-acre
boundary, now so thickly settled, was then owned by James
W. Patton, James M. Smith, Samuel Chunn, N. W. Wood
fin and Israel Baird. There was a thirty-acre field where
Doubleday now is, and was called the "old gallows field,"
because Sneed and Henry had been hanged there about 1835.
Standing south of Woodfin and East of North and South Main
streets to the southern boundary, there were but eight resi
dences, not including negro and outhouses.
Southwest Asheville. Just north of Aston street was
the brick store of Patton & Osborne, and later Patton &
Summey, adjoining which was the tailor shop of "Uncle"
Manuel, one of James W. Patton's slaves. Then came a
white house which was kept for guests when there was an
overflow crowd at the Eagle hotel. Between this house and
the Daylight store, J. M. Smith some years later erected a two-
story building for the use of Dr. T. C. Lester, a physician who
came from South Carolina and settled here about 1845. He
kept a sort of drug store, the first of its kind in Asheville.
The negroes called it a shot-i-carry-pop, in their effort to call
it an apothecary shop. Hilliard Hall now stands where it
stood. Just above was the residence and place of business of
James B. Mears, now the Daylight store. Then came Drake
Jarrett's place — better known as the Coche7 place "where
for many years the little short-legged 'monsieur' and his
'madam' dealt out that which Solomon says biteth like a
serpent and stingeth like an adder." Thus was reached what
was the Chunn property, which, beginning at the lower side
of T. C. Smith's drug store, ran straight back to Church
street. Samuel Chunn had lived in a large brick house which
fronted north, and which was later replaced by a building
used as a banking house, known as the Bank building. This
was about 1845. The Asheville branch of the Bank of Cape
Fear occupied it till the Civil War period. The residence of
A. B. Chunn stood on the corner now occupied by Pat Mcln-
tyre's grocery store. An old stable stood at the corner of
Patton and Lexington avenues.

148 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Church Street. The grounds of the Methodist church
extended from Patton avenue and Church street to the Aston
property and several rods back, forming an oblong plat of
several acres. On the corner of Patton avenue and Church
street stood a large brick building used as a boarding house
in connection with the school for girls which was taught for
many years in the basement of the Methodist church. The
late William Johnston afterwards bought and occupied this
building as a residence. The land south of the Methodist
church was used as a cemetery till long after the Civil War.
The Presbyterian church of that day stood nearly where
the one of this day stands, opposite that of the Methodist
church, and its cemetery extended down to Aston street.
Near where Asheland and Patton avenues join the late James
M. Smith had a large barn, which stood in a ten-acre field.
Northwest Asheville. In the angle formed by North Main
street and Patton avenue, in 1840, there were not many houses.
Beginning at the north end, Mrs. Cassada — "Granny Cassie" —
occupied a one-room house which stood where the Rankin tan
house afterwards stood. She baked and sold ginger cakes,
and brewed cider. Coming up North Main street was a
house built by Israel Baird in 1839, now known as the Brandt
property. Israel Baird had lived two and a half miles north
of Asheville at what is now the Way place, but about 1838
he bought 40 acres, commencing at the junction of North
Main street and Merrimon avenue, running west to the pres
ent auditorium, thence to Starnes avenue and thence back
to North Main street. The only other building within this
area was the wooden store and shoe-shop opposite the old
Buck hotel, now occupied by the Langren hotel, and the
barns, stables, sheds and cribs of J. M. Smith, which cov
ered a large portion of the lot lying between West College
street, Walnut and Water streets. From the foregoing it is
evident that the artist Duncanson did not get all the houses
into his oil painting of 1850.
East and South Asheville. In these sections of the town
the land was owned by James M. Smith, James W. Patton,
Montraville Patton, Dr. J. F. E. Hardy, Mrs. Morrison and
Thomas L. Gaston, principally. The old Buck Hotel, a small
frame building near it, what was known as the Dunlap store,
the court house, the jail, the office of the Highland Messenger

COUNTY HISTORY 149
on what is now North Pack ^Square, east of the Gazette News
office, were then the oldest houses in town. The old jail stood
where the new Legal building now stands; the court house
stood where Vance's monument stands, with the whipping
post and stocks immediately in its rear. Mrs. Rose Morri
sons' residence occupied the site now covered by the present
court house, while the store of Montraville Patton occupied
the corner now used by the Holt Furniture Company. Lower
down on South Main street lived William Coleman in a brick
building in a part of which the post-office was kept. Later on
Col. R. W. Pulliam lived there and Rankin and Pulliam did
a large mercantile business. Just below this, embowered in
green vines and fragrant flowers, was the stylish wooden
dwelling occupied for years by Dr. J. F. E. Hardy, and was
later to fall into such disrepute as to be called "Greasy Cor
ner." This, however, was about 1890 after the handsome
old residence had for years been used as a negro hotel and
restaurant. On it now stands the large Thrash Building.
Eagle Hotel. Just below Eagle street stood and still
stands the building then and for years afterwards known far
and wide as the Eagle hotel, then owned by James Patton
and later by his son James W. Patton. There were a large
blacksmith shop just below this hotel, where Sycamore street
now leaves South Main, and a tannery on the branch back
of and below this. Joshua Roberts lived on the hill where
Mrs. Buchanan lived until her recent death, and it was the
last house on that side of the street.
Large Land Owners. In the angle formed by Patton
avenue and South Main street, according to Dr. Baird, the
lands were owned principally by James M. Smith, Col. James
M, Alexander, James W. Patton, and Samuel Chunn, but
James B. Mears and Drake Jarrett owned from T. C. Smith's
drug store down to and including Mears' Daylight store. The
Methodist and Presbyterian churches owned and occupied
the land now used by them for their present places of wor
ship. Within this area were eleven residences, two stores,
two churches, two stables, one tanyard and one barn. At
the corporate line on South Main street, at the forks of the
road, lived Standapher Rhodes, and north of him was the
blacksmith shop of Williamson Warlick whose sign read :
"Williamson Warlick Axes," his axes being especially fine.

150 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
He died and was succeeded there by Elias Triplett. Two
hundred yards north was the home of Rev. William Mor
rison, a Presbyterian minister and the father of Mr. Theo
dore S. Morrison. J. M. Alexander afterwards lived in this
house. Then came a tannery of J. M. Smith's, while David
Halford occupied a residence at the corner of South Main
and Southside avenue, known as the Goodlake curve because
of the reverse curve of the street railway tracks at that point.
There was a frame house about halfway between the Hal-
ford house and Mrs. M. E. Hilliard's residence. Mrs. Hil-
liard's home site was formerly occupied by a large two-story
frame house which stood upon the street, and was occupied
at one time by Col. J. M. Alexander before he removed to
"Alexander's, " ten miles down the French Broad river. Then
John Osborne occupied the Alexnader (Hilliard) house for a
long time, to be followed by Isaac McDunn, a tailor. It was
finally bought by the late Dr. W. L. Hilliard, and occupied
as a residence. From his house to Aston street there was no
dwelling, though a large stable belonging to the Eagle hotel
stood where now stands the Swannanoa-Berkeley Hotel.
George Swain. He was born in Roxborough, Mass., June
17, 1763, and on September 1, 1784, he left Providence, R. I.,
for Charleston, S. C; but as a storm had required that much
of the cargo be thrown over board, Swain arrived at Charles
ton penniless. He walked to Augusta, Ga., where he lived a
year, and then removed to Wilkes, afterwards Oglethorpe
county, where he engaged in hat-making, and was a member
of the legislature of Georgia five years, and of the Constitu
tional convention held at Louisville about 1795, in which year
he moved to Buncombe county and settled in or near Ashe
ville, soon afterward marrying Carolina Lowrie, a sister of
Joel Lane, founder of the city of Raleigh, and of Jesse Lane,
father of Gen. Joseph Lane, Democratic candidate for Vice-
President in 1860. She was the widow of a man who had
been killed by the Indians. In the early part of his residence
George Lane lived at the head of Beaverdam creek, where the
late Rev. Thomas Stradley afterwards resided and died, and
where, on January 4, 1801, David Lowrie Swain, afterwards
judge, governor and president of the University, was born.
Here the future statesman saw the first wagon ever in
Buncombe brought up the washed out bed of Beaverdam

COUNTY HISTORY 151
creek in default of a road. At this sight, "he incontinently
took to his heels and rallied only when safely entrenched
behind his father's house, a log double cabin." "About 1805
a post-route was established on the recently constructed road
through Buncombe county. ... In 1806, the post-
office at Asheville was made the distributing office for Georgia,
Tennessee and the two Carolinas, and George Swain became
postmaster," the commission issuing in 1807. He was a rul
ing elder in the Presbyterian church. He used to say his
father was a Presbyterian and an Arminian, and his mother
was a Methodist and a Calvinist. He was a trustee of the
Newton academy. He afterwards carried on the hatter's bus
iness in the house now called the Bacchus J. Smith place in
Grove Park, where his son-in-law, William Coleman, succeeded
him as a hatter. For some time before his death he was
insane. He died December 24, 1829.
Samuel Chunn. In 1806 he was chairman of the Bun
combe county court, having been a tanner for years, his tan-
yard being where Merrimon avenue crosses Glenn's creek. In
1807 he was jailer, and from him Chunn's Cove took its name.
He died in 1855, on the bank of the French Broad in Madison
county at what is known as the Chunn place, where he had
resided in his old age.
William Welch. He was at one time a member of the
Buncombe county court, and in January, 1805, was coroner.
He was interested in lands on what are now Haywood and
Depot streets. He afterwards removed to Waynesville and
married Mary Ann, a daughter of Robert Love. In 1829 he
was a senator from Haywood county, a member of the con
stitutional convention of 1835 and for many years clerk of
the court. He was born April 8, 1796, and died February 6,
1865. Colonel William Davidson. He was a son of John Da
vidson and first cousin of Gen. Wm. Davidson, who succeeded
Griffith Rutherford in the generalship when the latter was
captured at Camden. Gen. Davidson was killed February 1,
1781, at Cowan's ford of Catawba river. Col. Davidson was a
brother of the Samuel Davidson who was killed by the Indians
in 1781-2 at the head of the Swannanoa river, and was the
first representative of Buncombe county in the State Senate,
taking a prominent part in the preparations made by the

152 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
North Carolinians for the Battle of Kings Mountain. He was
the father of William Mitchell Davidson of Haywood county,
whose son, Col. Allen T. Davidson, was a prominent lawyer
and represented this section in the Confederate Congress.
William Mitchell Davidson. He was born January 2,
1780, and died at Rock Island Ferry, on the Brazos river,
Washington county, Texas, May 31, 1846, and was buried
in the Horse Shoe Bend of that stream in the private burying
ground of Amos Gates. On January 10, 1804, he married
Elizabeth Vance (who was born on Reem's creek, Buncombe
county, North Carolina, March 23, 1787), the ceremony being
performed by the Rev. Geo. Newton. She died at the home of
her son, Col. Allen Turner Davidson, on Valley river, Cher
okee county, April 15, 1861. They settled on a beautiful
farm on Jonathan's creek, in Haywood county, where they
remained until October 24, 1844, when the family went to
Santa Anna, 111., where they remained until the first of March,
1845, when they again set out for Texas. They settled on
Wilson's creek of Collin county in April. From there they
moved to Rock Island Ferry, where Mr. Davidson died. The
family then returned to North Carolina — April, 1847. One
cause of his removal to Texas was an unfortunate mercantile
venture which he had made with his sons, W. E., H. H., an
A. T., at Waynesville, in 1842. The story of the adventures
of this family to and from Texas at that early day, as preserved
in a manuscript written by John M. Davidson, one of W. M.
Davidson's sons, reads more like a romance than a sober
recital of real facts. (See Appendix.)
Isaac B. Sawyer. Was born on Tuskeegee creek in Macon,
now Swain, county in 1810. James W. Patton, John Burgin
and 'Squire Sawyer were, for years, the three magistrates
composing the Buncombe county court. He was the first
mayor of Asheville and was clerk and master for many years
before the Civil War and until the adoption of the Code.
He was the father of Captain James P. Sawyer, who for years
was the president of the Battery Park bank, a successful
merchant and a public spirited and enterprising citizen.
Isaac B. Sawyer died in 1880.
James Mitchell Alexander, He was born on Bee Tree
creek, Buncombe county, May 22, 1793. His grandfather,
John Alexander, of Scotch-Irish descent, was a native of Rowan

COUNTY HISTORY 153
county, where he married Rachel Davidson, a sister of Wil
liam and Samuel Davidson, and resided in Lincoln county,
during the Revolutionary war. They were afterwards among
the first settlers of Buncombe, but moved to Harper's river,
Term. His son, James Alexander was born in Rowan, Decem
ber 23, 1756. He fought on the American side at Kings
Mountain, and Cornwallis's camp chest, captured by him, was
in Buncombe in 1898 when "Asheville's Centenary" was writ
ten by F. A. Sondley, Esq. March 19, 1782, he married in
York district, South Carolina, Miss Rhoda Cunningham,
who had been born in Pennsylvania, October 13, 1763. They
then moved to Buncombe with their father and uncle and
settled on Bee Tree, where he died in the Presbyterian faith.
James Mitchell Alexander was their son, and on September
8, 1814, he married Nancy Foster, oldest child of Thomas
Foster, who was born November 17, 1797. In 1816 he removed
to Asheville and bought and improved the Hilliard property
on South Main street. He was a saddler, and at this house
he lived till 1828, carrying on his trade and keeping hotel.
In 1828, upon the completion of the Buncombe turnpike, he
bought and improved the place on the right bank of the French
Broad, ten miles from Asheville, afterwards famous as Alex
ander's hotel, also carrying on a mercantile business there.
In the latter part of his life he turned over this business to his
son, the late Alfred M. Alexander, and one of his sons-in-law,
the late Rev. J. S. Burnett, and improved the place three
miles nearer Asheville called Montrealla, where he died June
11, 1858. His wife died January 14, 1862.
Andrew Erwin. He is the man to whom Bishop Asbury
referred as "chief man." He was born in Virginia about 1773
and died near the War Trace in Bedford county, Tenn., in
1833. When seventeen years old he entered the employment
of the late James Patton, afterwards becoming his partner as
inn-keeper and merchant at Wilkesborough. In 1800-01
he was a member of the House of Commons from Wilkes.
He was Asheville's first postmaster. In 1814 he moved to
Augusta, Ga.
Thomas Foster. He was born in Virginia October 14,
1774. In 1776 his father, William Foster came with his
family and settled midway between the road leading to the
Swannanoa river by way of Fernihurst from Asheville. He

154 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
married Miss Orra Sams, whose father, Edmund Sams, was
one of the settlers from Watauga. After his marriage Thomas
Foster settled on the bank of Sweeten's creek, afterwards
called Foster's Mill creek, the first which enters Swannanoa
from the south above the present iron bridge on the Hender
sonviUe road. He was a member of the House of Commons
from Buncombe from 1809 to 1814, both inclusive, and repre
sented that county in the State senate in 1817 and 1819.
He died December 24 (incorrectly on tombstone December
14), 1858. He was a farmer and accumulated a considerable
property. A large family of children survived him. His
wife died August 27, 1853. He is mentioned in Wheeler's
History of North Carolina, Bennett's Chronology of North
Carolina and Bishop Asbury's journal.
Weaverville, Buncombe County. The greater part of
the early settlers of this country was made up of men and wom
en seeking religious liberty. This motive no less prompted
the immigrants from Northern Europe than the great body of
Scotch-Irish that emigrated to this country from Scotland
and Ireland. In Pennsylvania and down through the valley
of the Shenandoah we find the Dutch of Holland and the
Scotch-Irish, living side by side dominated by a single purpose.
One of the pioneers in Buncombe county came from the
valley of Virginia from this large Dutch settlement into what
is now Buncombe county, and was the ancester of the large
family of Weavers now living in that section.
Previous to 1790 John Weaver and wife, Elizabeth, with
their infant son (Jacob), came from Virginia via the Watauga
in Tennessee, crossing the Ball mountain in what is now Yan
cey county, and settled on Reems creek, near the present
town of Weaverville. From the first census of the United
States 1790 (see page 110) it appears that John Weaver was
a resident of Burke county, which then included what is now
Buncombe county. His family then consisted of wife, two
daughters and one son under sixteen years of age. From this
it is evident that he reached North Carolina sometime between
1786 and 1790. In the office of Register of Deeds for Bun
combe county, in Book No. 1 at page 100, is recorded a deed
from John McDowell of Burke county, conveying to John
Weaver of Buncombe county 320 acres of land; consideration
100 pounds; description, "On both sides of Reems creek and

COUNTY HISTORY 155
on both sides of the path leading from Green river to Nola-
chuckee." This is interesting inasmuch as it seems to locate
the old Indian trail from the east to the lands west of Unakas.
There is little doubt that this young pioneer brought his
young wife and infant son from the Watauga over this trail
in quest of a permanent home.
John Weaver was born December, 1763, and died December,
1830. In his will, probated April Session, 1831, was found
the following names: wife, Elizabeth; daughters, Susannah,
Christiana, Mary, Elizabeth, Matilda and Catherine; sons,
Jacob, James, John (better known as Jack), Christopher G.,
and Michael Montreville. From this family of six daughters
and five sons sprang the largest number of descendants, or most
numerous group of related families in Buncombe county,
springing from one ancestor. Some of the oldest related
families living in Buncombe county have their origin in more
than one ancestor; for instance, the Baird family sprang from
two brothers, Zebulon and Bedent; the Alexander family,
from James Alexander, followed by a brother, nephew and
other kinsmen; the Davidson family, from Samuel and Wil
liam. These last named pioneers entered Buncombe county
from the east through the Swannanoa gap. John Weaver,
as stated above, came from Virginia and entered this county
from the northern section and what is now Yancey county.
His oldest son, Jacob, married Elizabeth Siler of Macon county.
From this union were born four sons and three daughters,
John S., Jesse R., William W., and James Thomas, Elizabeth,
Saphronia and Mary. All these children of Jacob Weaver
married and became the heads of families living in Buncombe
county. Their descendants constitute the large majority of
Weavers and Weaver relations now living in this county.
John S. Weaver first married Mary Miller of Bolivar, Ten
nessee; she died in 1867 and his second wife was Mary Mc
DoweU of Macon county, daughter of Silas McDowell. Jesse
R. Weaver married Julia Coulter of Greenville, Tennessee.
William Weimer Weaver married Evalin Smith of Buncombe
county, daughter of Samuel Smith. James Thomas Weaver
married Hester Ann Trotter of Macon county. Elizabeth
Weaver married Burdie Gash. Saphronia Weaver married
Jamison McElroy. Mary Weaver married Robert V. Black-

156 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA

stock. Nearly all of the living descendants of these families
now live in Buncombe county, except the McElroy family,
which moved to Arkansas shortly after the Civil War.
The next child of the pioneer, John Weaver, was Susannah,
who married a Mr. McCarson; from these are descendants
living in this and adjacent counties.
The second daughter, Christiana, married Samuel Vance,
uncle of Z. B. Vance, who later moved to Bedford county,
Tennessee. The third daughter, Mary, married Henry
Addington of Macon county, where many descendants from
this union still live. The fourth daughter, Catherine, mar
ried Andrew Pickens from South Carolina, who settled in
Buncombe county. Rev. R. V. Pickens, Tarpley Pickens,
Christly Pickens, Mrs. Eliza Gill, and Mrs. Martha Carter,
who became the heads of large families in this county, were
sons and daughters of Andrew and Catherine Pickens. The
fifth daughter, Elizabeth, married Robert Patton Wells.
From this union were many sons and daughters, some of
whom, known to the writer and living in Buncombe county, were
Robert C. Wells, W. F. Wells, Saphronia, who married Capt.
R. P. Moore, Jane, who married Dr. Micheaux, and Matilda, who
married Mathias Faubion of Tennessee. The sixth daughter
of John Weaver, Matilda, married Jefferson H. Garrison.
From this union were born sons and daughters in this and
adjacent counties. Two sons, William and John, were gal
lant soldiers in the Civil War.
Referring to the sons of John Weaver, other than Jacob,
who has already been referred to, James first married a Miss
Barnard. Their daughter, Christiana, married William R.
Baird, and these were the parents of Capt. I. V. Baird, Wil
liam Baird, Zebulon Baird, Dr. Elisha Baird, John R. Baird,
Misses Mollie and Catherine Baird, all now living in Bun
combe county, except Dr. Elisha and John R. Baird, who
died within the last ten years. James Weaver's second mar
riage was to Mrs. Gilliland. Children were born to James
Weaver by both of these unions, but they moved in early life
to Tennessee and Missouri.
James Weaver first represented Buncombe county in the low
er house of the legislature in 1825, serving with David L. Swain.
He was subsequently re-elected to this office in 1830, 1832,
1833 and 1834, serving with William Orr, John Clayton and

COUNTY HISTORY 157
Joseph Henry resepectively. Later he moved to Cocke
county, Tennessee, died July 28, 1854, and was buried on the
old homestead, at the place known as Weaver Bend, just below
Paint Rock. Subsequently, one of his daughters removed
his remains and re-interred them at Knoxville, Tenn. Over
looking this grave, and on the very apex of a high, steep moun
tain, at Weaver Bend, is a small white cross set in a rock,
by whose hands no one knows. It can be seen from the car
window as the train moves through the river gorge 500 feet
below. It is a tradition that some Jesuits placed a few of
these crosses on conspicuous promontories through the Smoky
mountains long before any of the settlements had been made
by white men. However, this may be, this little emblem
has rested on this western "Horeb" for possibly two cen
turies, looking out and towards the rolling rivers and alluvial
valleys of East Tennessee, which to the early settlers was a
real land of promise flowing with milk and honey.
John, or Jack, Weaver married and lived on the French
Broad river just above the mouth of Reems creek. Some of
his descendants are still living in this county; of those who
moved elsewhere little is now known.
Christopher G. Weaver married a Miss Lowry and lived
on Flat creek three miles north of Weaverville. He died in
early life and has no descendants now living in Buncombe
county. Montreville Michael Weaver was the youngest son of John
Weaver. He was born August 10, 1808, married Jane Baird.
To this union was born four sons and five daughters. The sons
were Fulton, who died unmarried, and Capt. W. E. Weaver, who
married Miss Hannah Baird and is now living at Weaverville,
N. C. The third son, John, married Miss Garrison, neither
of whom is now living. Dr. Henry Bascomb Weaver mar
ried Miss Hattie Penland, daughter of Robert Penland of
Mitchell county, N. C. Dr. Weaver is now living in Ashe
ville, a practicing physician who possesses the confidence
and esteem of those who know him. The daughters of Mon
treville Weaver: Mary Ann, married Dr. J. A. Reagan;
Martha, married Dr. J. W. Vandiver; Margarette, married
Capt. Wylie Parker; Catherine, married Dr. I. A. Harris;
Eliza, married D. H. Reagan; all of whom have many descend
ants living in Buncombe county. Montreville Weaver, the

158 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
last surviving child of the family of John Weaver, died in
September, 1882.
Among these people are many strong men and women who
have left their impress upon the communities in which they
lived and have largely contributed to the upbuilding of the
country. John Weaver the First left the information with
his children that his father was a Holland gentleman. Other
information obtainable indicates that his father came from
Holland to Pennsylvania, and in company with other brothers
and kinsmen of the same name settled near Lancaster, Penn
sylvania, later migrating across Maryland into the valley of
the Shenandoah in Virginia. The name of Weaver appears
frequently in the public records about Lancaster, Pennsyl
vania, and in Virginia. From the report of Mr. H. J. Ecke-
rode, the Archivist of the State of Virginia, it appears that
there were two men by the name of John Weaver in the Re-
olutionary War from Virginia. One of these men was from
Augusta county. In the same report also appear the fol
lowing Weavers : Aaron Weaver, Princess Ann county, Till
man Weaver, Captain of Fauquier Militia. From the Penn
sylvania Archives, Third Series, Vol. 23, appear the names
of Captain Martin Weaver and Captain Jacob Weaver of
Fifth and Seventh Companies of the Tenth Pennsylvania
Regiment (see pages 314 and 383). The commissions of
these men bear date July 1, 1777, and January 13, 1777,
respectively. Other Weavers who figured in the Revolution
ary history of Pennsylvania are George, Dolshen, Daltzer,
Daniel, Henry, Adam, Jacob and Joshua. In fact this name
appears in some muster roll of United States forces in every
conflict in which the country has been engaged, beginning
with the subjugation of the savage tribes, through all the
wars with England and down to the Spanish-American war
of recent date.
It is easy to believe that these Dutch people found con
genial friends and neighbors in the Scotch-Irish people that
were thrown together in the valley of the Shenandoah. They
were all dominated by a single purpose, to hew out for them
selves and their posterity a civil and ecclesiastic system, free
from the domination of king or pope. There is no doubt but
that the ancestors of these Dutch people were the loyal sup
porters of William, Duke of Nassau, called "William the

COUNTY HISTORY 159
Silent' ' who broke the power of Catholic Spain over the Neth
erlands in his defeat of Philip the Second in the latter part of
the Sixteenth Century.
Ashe County. The act to establish the county of Ashe is
one of the shortest on record. It was passed in 1799 (Laws
of N. C, p. 98) and provides that "all that part of the county
of Wilkes lying west of the extreme height of the Appalachian
mountains shall be, and the same is hereby erected into a
separate and distinct county by the name of Ashe," followed
later by an act to establish permanently the dividing line
between Ashe and Buncombe counties, the same to begin at
"the Yadkin spring, and thence along the extreme height of
the Blue ridge to the head spring of Flat Top fork of Elk
creek, thence down the meanders of said creek to the Ten
nessee line."
The first record of the county court of Ashe is at the May
term, 1806, with Alexander Smith, John McBride and Charles
Tolliver, esquires, present. The following were the jurors :
Sidniah Maxwell, foreman, James Sturgill, Allen Woodruff,
Samuel Griffith, Seth Osborn, George Koons, John Green,
James Dickson, Levi Pennington, Benjamin Hubbard, Charles
Kelly, James Murphy, Wm. Harris, Alex. Lethern, Sciras
Fairchilds. Edward King was appointed constable to attend
the grand jury. Elisha Collins was excused from road duty
"by reason of infirmity." At the February Term, 1807,
James Cash recorded his "mark" for stock, being a crop and
slit and under keel on the right ear; and Elijah Calloway
and Mathias Harmon were qualified as justices of the peace.
The jury appointed to "view the road from Daniel Harper's
into the Elk spur road" made report that it "was no road."
From the Old Court Records. If there was a term of
the Superior Court held in Ashe county prior to the March
term, 1807, there is no record of it. On the 9th day of March
of that year, however, Francis Locke presided as judge, and
appointed John McMillan clerk, with bond of £2,000. Thomas
McGimsey was appointed clerk and master, but resigned at
the September Term, 1807. The grand jurors were Nathan
Horton, foreman, James Bunyard, David Earnest, John Brown,
Eli Cleveland, Joseph Couch, John Koons, Jonathan Baker,
Elijah Pope, Jesse Ray, Samuel C. Cox, John Holman, Joshua
Cox, Elijah Calloway, John Judd, Alex. Johnson, Morris

160 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Baker, Wm. Weaver. Henry Hardin, constable, was sworn to
attend the jury. Only two cases were tried, the first of which
was John Cox v. Isaac H. Robinett and Nathan Gordon,
debt, judgment for £596, 14-6d and costs. At the Septem
ber term, 1807, Judge Spruce McCay presided and fined the
delinquent jurors £10 each, but afterwards released them.
Six cases were tried. Judge Francis Locke returned for the
Spring Term, 1808, and Judge Samuel Lowrie followed him
at the Fall term. At the September term, 1810, on motion
of Robert H. Burton, who was to become judge and preside
at a future term, Samuel Cox, sheriff, was amerced, nisi, for
not returning execution in the case of Robert Nail v. Jno.
Burton and others. At the March term, 1811, Peter Hart
was committed to jail for 24 hours and fined 40 shillings for
making a noise and contempt of court, and Gideon Lewis and
John Northern were fined 20 shillings each for not answering
when their names were called. Judge Henderson presided at
the March term, 1812, when John A. Johnson resigned his
appointment as clerk and master. John Hall presided at the
September term, while at the March term, 1813, the jury
acquitted Wm. Pennington of rape. At this term Waugh
& Findlay recovered judgment for $55. 063^ against Elizabeth
Humphries, but judgment was arrested and a new trial or
dered. Duncan Cameron presided at the March term, 1814,
while at the September term, 1815, the jury found that Wm.
Lambeth, indicted for malicious mischief (Betty Young pros-
scutrix) had taken "a mare from his cornfield to a secret
place and stabbed her to prevent a repetition of injuring his
crop, but were unable to say whether he was guilty or not
and the judge, Hon. Leonard Henderson, ordered that a tran
script of the bill of indictment and verdict be sent to the
Conference court. At the September term, 1817, Judge Low-
ery did not get to court on Monday, but arrived the follow
ing Tuesday, and ordered Thomas Calloway, county surveyor,
to survey the land in dispute between Thomas McGimsey
and Elisha Blevins. There is a grant to Gideon Lewis to 200
acres on Spring branch, entered September 16, 1802, of date
November 27, 1806, and a grant to Reuben Farthing for 200
acres on Beaver Dams, entered July 4, 1829, of date Decem
ber 5, 1831. Benjamin Cutbirth conveyed 100 acres on South
Fork of New river to Andrew Ferguson, the execution of

COUNTY HISTORY 161
which deed was proven by the oath of Joseph Couch at the
May term, 1800, of the county court.
Second Jail West of the Blue Ridge. The first jail
stood behind what is now the Jefferson Bargain store, con
ducted by Dr. J. C. Testerman, from which some of the logs
were removed to and made into the old stable in east Jefferson,
where they are still visible. The next jail was of brick and
stood on the site of the present jail on Helton road, and was
built, probably, about 1833. It was burned in the spring of
1865 by men in the uniform of the United States army. A pris
oner set the jail on fire about 1887 and Felix Barr repaired it.
Jefferson. A tract of fifty acres was deeded to Ashe
county on which the town of Jefferson was built early in the
18th century; but the records of the grantor and grantee are
lost. A map in the possession of G. L. Park, Esq., is sup
posed to have been made about 1800. It was made by J.
Harper and shows the location of all lots, the court house and
the crossing of the Helton road. The first court house was
of logs and stood at the intersection of this road and the road
running east and west, and now known as Main street. The
next court house was of brick, and stood flush with Main
street, in front of the present structure, and was built about
1832 or 1833, according to statement of Edmund C. Bartlett
to Felix Barr, who also remembers seeing the date on a tin
gutter, the tin work having been done by Lyle & Wilcox of
Grayson county, Va. The present court house was built
in 1904, the old road for Helton still going by it, but passing
on both sides now, in narrow alleys or lanes, but coming to
gether again before crossing the gap of the Phoenix mountain,
nearly two miles to the north. There is a conflict of opinion
as to where the first court was held, some claiming that it was
in an old log church in the meadow immediately in front of
the present court house and known as the McEwen meadow,
and others that it was held in an old Baptist church half a
mile from Jefferson on the Beaver creek road, near which a
Mr. and Mrs. Smithdeal kept a tavern and on the opposite side
of the road. The three rows of black-heart cherry trees on
the main street give not only shade but an air of distinction
not noticeable in newer towns, while the colonial style of
several of the houses indicates a degree of refinement among
the earlier inhabitants sadly missing from many places of equal
W. N. C.  11

162 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
antiquity. Like Charleston, S. C, Jefferson has the air of
having been finished years ago; but as the Methodist Conference
has appropriated $20,000 and the citizens of Ashe $10,000
to build a school and college, and Mrs. Eula J. Neal, widow
of the late J. Z. Neal has conveyed eight or ten acres of choice
land for that purpose, and as a railroad from Virginia is ex
pected soon, Jefferson is looking to the future with pride in
her past and a determination to achieve greater and greater
results. Before the coming of railroads Asheville was no
larger than Jefferson is now, nor had it any greater evidences
of culture and education than is here indicated by the citi
zenship of Jefferson. The large numbers of negroes in and
around Jefferson indicate that the former residents were men
of wealth and leisure. In 1901, the legislature incorporated
the Wilkesboro and Jefferson Turnpike company7, and five
years later a finely graded road was completed between those
two places. By the terms of this act the State furnished
the convicts while the stockholders furnished the provisions
and paid the expenses. This road has been of greater help
to North Wilkesboro than to Jefferson; but if the town of Jef
ferson and the county of Ashe would secure trackage rights
over the narrow gauge road now operated for lumber exclu
sively between Laurel Bloomery, Term., and Hemlock, N. C,
and then secure convicts to complete the line to Jefferson, under
the same terms as were granted for the building of the turn
pike, and operate it by electricity, it need not wait for the
pleasure of lumber companies to construct a standard gauge
road at their convenience
Old Buildings. The building now known as Jefferson
Inn was built in two parts by the late George Bower. The
part used by the Bank of Ashe was built first, but the date can
not be determined definitely, and the eastern part some years
later. The frame building next to the east was George Bow
er's store, in which the postoffice was kept, and holes in the
partitions are still visible which had been used for posting
letters. James Gentry was killed one snowy Christmas
night about the year 1876, in front of this building while
Mont. Hardin was keeping hotel. Douglas Dixon was tried
for the murder, but was acquitted. It was in this building
also that Judge Robert R. Heath, sick and delirious, inflicted
a wound upon himself from which he afterwards died (May

COUNTY HISTORY 163
26, 1871). The hand-forged hinges and window fastenings
indicate that the building is old.
Waugh and Bartlett Houses. But what is still known
as the Bartlett house, east of the present postoffice, is prob
ably the oldest house in town. It was occupied by Sheriff
E. C. Bartlett, grandfather of the Professors Dougherty of
Boone. Another old building is that still known as the Waugh
house, notwithstanding its modern appearance. It is now
a part of the Masonic building, apparently, but its main
body, like the Bartlett house, is of logs. In it Waugh, Poe
and Murchison sold goods in the first part of the nineteenth
century. Certain it is that to this firm there were grants
and deeds to land at a very early date, and the first map of
Jefferson was made by J. Harper for Wm. P. Waugh, the
senior member of this firm; Mathias Poe, the third member
is said to have lived in Tennessee; but Col. Murchison for
years occupied the large old residence which still stands on
the hill at the eastern end of town.
Early Residents of Jefferson, Ashe County. Nathan
H. Waugh moved to Jefferson from Monroe county, Tenn.,
in 1845. He was born April 24, 1822. Among those living
in Jefferson in 1845 were Col. George Bower, Rev. Dr. Wagg,
a Methodist preacher, and the Rev. William Milam, also a
Methodist preacher, and the jailer; also Sheriff E. C. Bart
lett, Cyrus Wilcox, a tinner, George Houck, blacksmith, whose
daughter married Cyrus Grubb of the Bend of New river;
and Wm. Wyatt. Daniel Burkett, who lives one mile South
of Jefferson and whose daughter married Rev. Dr. J. H.
Weaver of the Methodist Church, South. William Willen, an
Englishman and a ditcher, lived one mile east of Jefferson on
the farm now owned by D. P. Waugh. Mrs. Lucy A Carson
moved to Jefferson in 1870, and remembers as residents at
that time S. C. Waugh, Wiley P. Thomas, Mrs. America
Bower, Dr. L. C. Gentry, Rev. James Wagg, J. E. and N. A.
Foster, E. C. Bartlett. The Fosters delivered salt to Ashe
county during the Civil War. Mrs. Milam owned a residence
opposite J. E. and N. A. Foster's, but gave the lot to Adam
Roberts, colored, who subsequently sold it and built the brick
house on the hill to the south of town. The Carson house,
brick, was built in 1845, Geo. Bower giving John M. Carson,

164 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
his brother-in-law, the lot on which it stands. Captain Joseph
W. Todd built the house to the west of the Carson resi
dence in 1870, and the Henry Rollins house had been built
long before that time. The Negro mountain was so called
because a runaway negro, during or before the Revolutionary
War, escaped and hid in a cave on the mountain till his hid
ing place was discovered and he was recaptured and returned
to his master east of the Blue Ridge. The Mulatto mountain
is said to have taken its name from the color of the soil, but
no plausible reason was given for the names applied to the
Paddy and Phoenix mountains.
Aras B. Cox. Aras B. Cox was born in Floyd county,
Va., January 25, 1816, and married Phoebe Edwards, Febru
ary 23, 1845. They settled in Ashe county. In 1849 he was
elected clerk of the Superior Court, and also in 1853. He
sold his farm in Alleghany county, and bought one seven
miles from Jefferson. He was in the Confederate War. He
was a distinguished physician and the author of "Footprints
on the Sands of Time," published at Sparta, N. C, in August,
1900. He died soon after.
Colonel George Bower. So higly regarded was Col.
Bower for his wisdom and sagacity that he was almost uni
versally called "Double Headed Bower," or "Two Headed
Bower. " He was born in Ashe county, January 8, 1788. His
father was John Bower, whose will as recorded in Ashe county
disposed of considerable property. 8 George was a merchant,
farmer, live-stock raiser and hotellist at Jefferson. He mar
ried a Miss Bryant first, and after her death Miss America
Russeau. He was elected State Senator when Andrew Jack
son was elected president both times. 9 He became one of
the bondsmen of John McMillan as clerk of the Superior
Court as early as the September term, 1813. 1 ° At sub
sequent terms he was appointed clerk and master and gave
bond as such. x 1 He owned a large number of slaves and
many State bonds. He was drowned in the Yadkin river,
October 7, 1861. His will was probated in 1899, Book
E, p. 387. His widow married Robert R. Heath, who was
born in New Hampshire October 25, 1806, and died at Jef
ferson, May 26, 1871. "He was an able lawyer and an up
right judge," is engraved on his tomb. Mrs. Heath then

COUNTY HISTORY 165
married Alston Davis. She was born February 26, 1816, and
died May 25, 1903. Her will was probated in 1903, Book E,
p. 524.
A Tragic Death. In October, 1861, George Bower fol
lowed a runaway slave to the ford of the Yadkin river. He
was in his carriage, and the negro driver told him the river
was too swollen to admit of fording it at that time. Col.
Bower, insisting, however, the colored man drove in. The cur
rent took the carriage with its single occupant far beyond the
bank. Col. Bower was drowned, but the driver and horses
escaped. Stephen Thomas. This gentleman was a progressive and
valuable citizen of Creston, having kept a store and tavern
there. He was born in May, 1796, and died in May, 1864.
His wife was a daughter of Timothy Perkins. He reared
a splendid family. 1 2
David Worth. He was descended from William Worth, who
emigrated from England in the reign of Charles the Second.
His father had owned considerable property under the Com
monwealth, but at the Restoration it had been confiscated, and
his family scattered in search of safety. William had a son,
Joseph, born in Massachusetts, and Joseph's son Daniel, mar
ried Sarah Husey. Daniel Worth was a son of Joseph and
was born in Guilford county, October 15, 1810. Daniel Worth
was the father of David Worth, who came to Creston about
1828, and died December 10, 1888. He was a tanner by
trade. He also was a most valuable citizen and highly re
spected. He married Miss Elizabeth Thomas, daughter of
Stephen Thomas. She was born January 18, 1821, and died
October 22, 1895. 1S
Zachariah Baker. He lived at Creston and was a suc
cessful farmer and stock raiser. His wife was Miss Zilphea
Dickson. They reared a large family of influential and suc
cessful citizens. One of his sons, John, married Delilah Eller,
and the other, Marshall, married Mary Eller, a daughter of
Luke Eller. 1 4
The Graybeals. They are said to be of Dutch ancestry,
are generally thrifty and successful folk, and own much real
estate and live stock. They are honest, frugal and among
the best citizens of Ashe.

166 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Jacob, Henry and John Eller. They were sons of Chris
tian Eller, once a resident of the Jersey Settlement in David
son county. The two former came to Ashe and settled on
the North Fork of New river, reared large families, and were
successful, useful, respected citizens. Their sons were Peter,
Luke, William, John, David and Jacob. John settled on the
South Fork and later moved to Wilkes. His sons were Sim
eon, David, Absalom, John and Peter, who reared large fam
ilies which are scattered over Western North Carolina, Ten
nessee, Virginia, Iowa and Nebraska. x 5
Some Early Settlers of Ashe.16 "These noble, self-
sacrificing men and women of the early times endangered
their lives and braved many hardships in the wild Indian
coutry to open the way to happy homes, schools, churches
and the blessings of our present civilization. Some of these
were Henry Poe, Martin Gambill, Thomas Sutherland, Tim
othy Perkins, Captain John Cox, Henry Hardin, Canada
Richardson, James Douglas, Daniel Dickson and Elijah Cal
loway. Besides these were many others whose names awaken
much unwritten history : Miller, Blevins, Ham, Reeves,
Woodin, Barr, Baker, Eller, Goodman, Ray, Burkett, Gray-
beal, Houck, Kilby, Ashley, Jones, Gentry, Smith, Plummer,
Lewis, Sutherland, McMillan, Colvard, Barker, Senter, Max
well, Calhoun, Sapp, Thomas, Worth, Oliver and others."
Haywood County.17 "In the legislature of 1808, Gen
eral Thomas Love, whose home was near where the 'Brown'
house now stands back of the McAfee cottage in Waynesville,
and who was that year representative from Buncombe county
in the General Assembly, introduced a bill having for its pur
pose to organize a county out of that portion of Buncombe
west of its present western and southwestern boundary and
extending to the Tennessee line, including all the territory in
the present counties of Haywood, Macon, Jackson, Swain,
Graham, Clay, and Cherokee. The bill met with favor, was
passed, ratified and became a law December 23, 1808.
"On Richland creek, about the year 1800, the neucleus of a
village had been formed on the beautiful ridge between its
limpid waters and those of Raccoon creek. The ridge is less
than a mile wide and attracted settlers on account of the pic
turesque mountains on either side and the delightfulness of the
climate. At that early time a considerable population was

COUNTY HISTORY 167
already there. Several men, who were well known in the State
and who afterwards became prominent in public affairs, had
built homes upon that nature favored spot and were living
there. Such men as General Thomas Love, Colonel Robert
Love, Colonel William Allen, John Welch, and others of Rev
olutionary fame were leaders in that community. Without
changing his residence General Thomas Love was a member
of the State Legislature, with two or three years intermission,
from 1797 to 1828, for nine years as a member from Buncombe
county and the remainder of the time from Haywood. Most
of the time he was in the House of Commons but for six years
he was also in the Senate. Colonel Robert Love served three
years in the senate from Buncombe county, from 1793 to 1795.
William Allen and John Welch were veterans of the Revolu
tion and men of considerable influence in that community.
"As already stated that law was ratified on December 23,
1808, but it did not become operative until early in the year
1809. On the fourth Monday in March of that year the
justices of the peace in the territory defined by the act erect
ing the county met at Mount Prospect in the first court of
pleas and quarter sessions ever held in the limits of Haywood
county. The following justices were present at that meeting:
Thomas Love, John Fergus, John Dobson, Robert Phillips,
Abraham Eaton, Hugh Davidson, Holliman Battle, John Mc-
Farland, Phillip T. Burfoot, William Deaver, Archibald
McHenry, and Benjamin Odell.
"One of the first things the court thus constituted did was
to elect officers for the new county. There were several can
didates for the different positions, but after several ballots
were taken the following were declared duly elected: Clerk
of the court, Robert Love; Sheriff, William Allen; register
of deeds, Phillip T. Burfoot; constable of the county, Samuel
Hollingsworth; entry taker, Thomas St. Clair; treasurer, Rob
ert Phillips; stray master, Adam Killian; comptroller, Abra
ham Eaton; coroner, Nathan Thompson; solicitor, Archi
bald Ruffin; standard keeper, David McFarland.
"Thus officered the county of Haywood began its career.
The officers entered at once upon their respective duties, and
the county became a reality. The first entry in the register's
book bears date of March 29th, 1809, signed by Philip T.

168 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Burfoot, and the first in the clerk's book is the same date by
Robert Love.
"Until the court house and jail could be built the county
officials met at private residences at Mount Prospect and
prisoners were carried to jail in Asheville. Such proceedings
were inconvenient and the commissioners appointed by the
legislature, therefore, made haste to locate and erect the
public buildings. It was expected that they would be ready
to make their report to the court of pleas and quarter sessions
as to the location of the county seat at the March session.
Instead, however, they asked at that session to be indulged
until the June term, and that request was granted.
"On Monday, June 26, 1809, the court met at the home of
John Howell. The old record names the following justices
as being present: Thomas Love, Philip Burfoot, Hugh Da
vidson, John McFarland, Abraham Eaton, John Dobson, Wil
liam Deaver, Archibald McHenry, and John Fergus. At this
meeting the commissioners named in the act of the legislature
erecting the county made their report, in which they declared
that it was unanimously agreed to locate the public buildings
somewhere on the ridge between Richland and Raccoon creeks
at or near the point then called Mount Prospect. As the
commissioners were clothed with full power to act, it required
no vote of the justices, but it is more than probable that the
report was cheerfully endorsed by a majority of the justices
present. "At this June term of the court, the first for the trial of
causes, the following composed the grand jury: John Welch
foreman, William Welch, John Fullbright, John Robinson,
Edward Sharteer, Isaac Wilkins, Elijah Deaver, David
McFarland, William Burns, Joseph Chambers, Thomas St. Clair,
John Shook, William Cathey, Jacob Shock, and John St.
Clair. The following grand jurors for the next term of the
Superior court that was to be held in Asheville in September:
Holliman Battle, Hugh Davidson, Abraham Eaton, Thomas
Lenoir, William Deaver, John McFarland, John McClure,
Felix Walker, Jacob McFarland, Robert Love, Edward Hyatt
and Daniel Fleming. This was done because of the fact that
no Superior court was held in Haywood for several years after
the formation of the county; but all cases that were appealed
from the court of pleas and quarter sessions came up by law

COUNTY HISTORY 169

in the Superior court of Buncombe county at Asheville. For
this court Haywood county was bound by law to send to
Asheville six grand jurors and as many more as desired.
^" "At the June term inspectors of election, that was to take
place in August, were also selected. There were then two
voting precincts, and this election was the first ever held in
the county. For the precinct of Mount Prospect the follow
ing inspectors were appointed: George Cathey, William
Deaver, John Fergus, and Hugh Davidson. For the precinct
of Soco, Benjamin Parks, Robert Reed, and Robert Turner
were appointed.
"In the location of the public buildings at Mount Prospect,
there was laid the foundation of the present little city of
Waynesville. Tradition says and truthfully, no doubt, that
the name was suggested by Colonel Robert Love in honor of
General Anthony Wayne, under whom Colonel Love served
in the Revolutionary War. The name suited the community
and people, and the village soon came to be known by it. In
the record of the court of pleas and quarter sessions the name
of Waynesville occurs first in 1811.
"Some unexpected condition prevented the immediate
erection of the public buildings. The plans were all laid in
1809, but sufficient money from taxation as provided for in
the act establishing the county had not been secured by the
end of that year. It was, therefore, late in the year 1811
before sufficient funds were in hand to begin the erection of
the courthouse. During the year 1812 the work began and
was completed by the end of the year. Mark Colman is said
to have been the first man to dig up a stump in laying the
foundation for that building. On December 21, 1812, the
first court was held in this first court house."
Haywood's Six Daughters. Formerly belonging to Hay
wood were Macon, Cherokee, Jackson, Swain, Clay and Gra
ham counties. Of many of the pioneer residents of these
counties when they were a part of Haywood Col. Allen T.
Davidson speaks in The Lyceum for January, 1891. Among
them were David Nelson and Jonathan McPeters, Jonathans
creek having been named for the latter. David Nelson was
the uncle of Col. Wm. H. Thomas, and died at 87 highly
respected and greatly lamented. "He was of fine physical
form, honest, brave and hospitable." "Then there were

170 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Joshua Allison, George Owens, John and Reuben Moody,
brothers, all sturdy, hardy, well-to-do men and good citi
zens, who, with Samuel Leatherwood constituted my father's
near neighbors." "Joseph Chambers of this neighborhood
moved to Georgia about the opening of the Carroll county
gold mine, say, about 1831-32. He was a man of more than
ordinary character, led in public affairs and reared an elegant
family. His daughters were splendid ladies and married well.
His wife was a sister of John and Reuben Moody." John
Leatherwood was well known for his "thrift and industry,
fine hounds, fine cattle and good old-time apple brandy; a
good citizen who lived to a good old age. James McKee,
father of James L. McKee of Asheville, lived on this creek,
was sheriff of Haywood for many years, and died at an
advanced age at Asheville. Near him lived Felix Walker.
He was a man of great suavity of manner, a fine
electioneer, insomuch that he was called "Old Oil Jug." He
went, after his defeat for Congress in 1824 by Dr. Robert
Vance, to Mississippi, where he died about 1835. The manu
facture and sale of gensing was begun on Jonathans creek by
Dr. Hailen of Philadelphia, who employed Nimron S. Jarrett
and Bacchus J. Smith, late of Buncombe county, to conduct
the business. It was abundant then and very profitable, the
green root being worth about seven cents a pound. A branch
of this business was established on Caney river in Yancey
county. I well remember seeing great companies of moun
taineers coming along the mountain passes (there were no
roads then only as we blazed them) with packed horses and
oxen going to the "factory," as we called it; and it was a
great rendezvous for the people, where all the then sports of
the day were engaged in such games as pitching quoits, run
ning foot-races, shooting matches, wrestling, and, sometimes
a good fist and skull fight. But the curse and indignation of
the neighborhood rested on the man who attempted, as we
called it, "to interfere in the fight, or double-team," or use a
weapon. The most noted men were John Welch, John
McFarland, Hodge Reyburn, Thomas Tatham, Gen. Thomas
Love and Ninian Edmundson. The leading families of Hay
wood were the Howells, being two brothers, John and Henry,
who came from Cabarrus about 1818; the Osborns; the Plotts,
Col. Thomas Lenoir; the Catheys, Deavers, McCrackens, Pen-

COUNTY HISTORY 171
lands, Bryers; David Russell of Fines creek, Peter Nolan,
Robert Penland, Henry Brown, James Green, who was born
in 1790, and was living in January, 1891, and many others.
Joseph Cathey. He was born March 12, 1803, and died
June 1, 1874, was a son of William Cathey, one of the first
settlers on Pigeon river; was a delegate to the State conven
tion of 1835, and in the senate and declined further political
honors. Ninian Edmundson. He was born in Burke, October 21,
1789, of Maryland ancestry, and came with his father to
Pigeon Valley prior to 1808, where the family remained. He
was in the War of 1812; was four years sheriff of Haywood.
He served several terms in the State senate and many in the
house. He was a most successful farmer and useful citizen.
He died in March, 1868, highly esteemed.
James Robert Love. He was born in November, 1798,
and died November 22, 1863. He represented Haywood
county many times in the legislature. He married Miss
Maria Williamson Coman, daughter of Col. James Coman of
Raleigh, who died January 9, 1842, aged 75 years. This
marriage occurred November 26, 1822. Charles Loehr, a
German professor of music, taught his children music for
years, and Loehr's son afterwards became professor of music at
the Asheville Female college. Love was so anxious to encour
age the building of a railroad that he set aside a lot for the
depot long before he died. He bought large boundaries of
vacant and unsurveyed lands, and died wealthy.
Dr. Samuel L. Love. He was born August 5, 1828, and
died July 7, 1887. He received his diploma as a physician
from the University of Pennsylvania; but was soon elected to the
legislature, where he served many terms. He was a surgeon in
1861 on the staff of Gov. Ellis, and a delegate to the Consti
tutional convention of 1875. In 1876 he was elected State
auditor. Thomas Isaac Lenoir. Was born on Pigeon river August
26, 1817, a son of Thomas Lenoir of Wilkes. He went to
the State University, and did not return to Haywood till
1847. He was a farmer and stock raiser and a progressive
citizen. On June 13, 1861, he married Miss Mary E. Garrett.
He died January 5, 1881. His brother, Walter Lenoir, was a
captain in the Confederate army, and spent much of his life

172 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
at Joseph Shull's in Watauga county, where he died July 26,
1890, aged sixty-seven years. He was graduated with high
honor at the State University. He studied law and was
admitted in 1845. He married Miss Cornelia Christian of
Staunton, Va., in 1856, but she died soon afterward. He lost
a leg in the Civil War at the battle of Ox Hill, September, 1862.
William Johnston was the fourth son of Robert John
ston, Sr., and was born two miles from Druhmore, the county
town of Down county, Ireland, July 26, 1807, his ancestors
having emigrated from Scotland to Ireland in 1641. He came
with his father's family to Charleston, South Carolina, in
December, 1818, and settled in Pickens District, South Caro
lina. About 1828 he moved to Buncombe county and mar
ried Lucinda, the only daughter of James Gudger and his
wife Annie Love, daughter of Col. Robert Love of Waynes
ville, March 18, 1830, and settled in Waynesville, where he
accumulated a large fortune. About 1857 he moved with his
family to Asheville. After the Civil War he, with the late
Col. L. D. Childs of Columbia, South Carolina, became the
owner of the Saluda factory, three miles from that city. It
was burned, however, and Mr. Johnston returned to Ashe
ville, where he died. He was admittedly the most success
ful business man in this entire section of the State; and some
think that the same business ability, if it had been exerted
in almost any other field, would have produced results that
would have rivaled the fortunes of some of our merchant
princes. Jerry Vickers was a tinner who worked for Wm. John
ston, and also made gravestones out of locust, paradoxical as
that may appear; but his head-boards in Waynesville ceme
tery, with names and dates neatly carved in this almost inde
structible wood, are still sound and legible today.
Wm. Pinckney Welch. He was born in Waynesville
November 14, 1838, and died at Athens, Ga., March 18, 1896.
His mother's father was Robert Love, and his father was
William the son of John Welch, one of the pioneers. The
Welches came from Philadelphia soon after the Revolution
ary War. He attended school at Col. Stephen Lee's school
in Chunn's cove, after which he went to Emory and Henry
college, leaving there in May, 1861, to join the Confederate
army. He was a lieutenant in the 25th N. C. regiment, and

COUNTY HISTORY 173

took part in the battles of from Gaines Mills to Malvern
Hill, Sharpsburg, Fredericksburg and in the campaign near
Kinston and Plymouth, Petersburg, Bermuda Hundreds, and
surrendered as a captain with Lee at Appomattox. The sur
vivors of that war have named their camp after him. He
practiced law after the war, was in the legislature in 1868
and 1870 and helped to impeach Gov. Holden. He was mar
ried first to Miss Sarah Cathey, a daughter of Col. Joseph
Cathey of Pigeon river, soon after the war, and on the 26th
of January, 1875, he married Miss Margaretta Richards
White of Athens, Ga., his first wife having died soon after
marriage. No braver man ever lived than Pink Welch.
The People of Macon. Macon was organized into a
county in 1828 "and was singularly fortunate in the char
acter of the people who first settled it. * 8 It was first repre
sented in the legislature in 1831 by James W. Guinn in the
senate and Thomas Tatham and James Whitaker in the house,
and was thereafter represented in the senate four times by
Gen. Ben. S. Britton, with James Whitaker, Asaph Enloe,
James W. Guinn and Jacob Siler and Thomas Tatham in the
house." Luke Barnard, Wimer Siler, and his sons William,
Jesse R., Jacob and John; John Dobson, John Howard, Henry
Addington, Gen. Thomas Love, Wm. H. Bryson, James K.
Gray, Mark Coleman, Samuel Smith, Nimrod S. Jarrett,
George Dickey, Silas McDowell, George Patton, and William
Angel were typical men of the early population. " Wm. and
Jacob Siler having married sisters of D. L. Swain, and Jesse
R. Siler having married a daughter of John Patton of Bun
combe, sister of the late lamented Mont. Patton, it is not
difficult to account for the great moral worth of the county
that now exists and has from its first settlement.
Samuel Smith was the father of Bacchus J. Smith and Rev.
C. D. Smith, and volunteered as a messenger to bear a letter
from Gen. McDowell, at the Old Fort, to the principal chief
of the Cherokees, at the Coosawattee towns about the close
of the Revolutionary War. x 9 The undertaking was full of
peril, the whole country west of the Blue Ridge being then in
the Cherokee Nation, then in arms, and before any white
men lived in this country. The Coosawattee towns, were on
a river of that name in Georgia at least 250 miles away; but
the mission was accomplished by this valiant man who aided

174 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
largely in bringing these people into peaceable terms with the
whites. He moved to Texas, after having raised a family of
distinguished sons in North Carolina, — dying in Texas when
over ninety years of age. " 2 °
Franklin. This was called the Sacred Town by the Cher
okees21 and was not named for Benjamin Franklin, as so
many think, but for Jesse Franklin, once governor of this
State. 2 2 The county was named for John Haywood, treasurer
of the State in 1787. According to Rev. C. D. Smith in his
Brief History of Macon county, p. 2, Macon was never a part
of Buncombe county, because its western boundary line never
extended west of the Meigs and Freeman line of 1802, and
the territory embraced in Macon and a portion of Jackson and
Swain was acquired from the Cherokees by treaty in 1817-18.
In the spring of 1820 the State commissioners, Jesse Franklin
and James Meabin, in accordance with an act of the legisla
ture, came to the Tennessee valley and organized for the
survey of lands "a corps of surveyors of whom Captain Rob
ert Love, a son of Gen. Thomas Love, who settled the place
at the bridge where Capt. T. M. Angel recently lived 2 3, was
chief. Robert Love had been an honored and brave captain
in the war of 1812, was much respected on account of his
patriotic devotion to American liberty, and was consequently
a man of large influence." Watauga plains, where the late
Mr. Watson lived, was first settled upon for the county site
and 400 acres, the land appropriated for that purpose, was
located and surveyed there; but Captain Love favored the
present site, and by a vote of all six companies of surveyors
then in the field, on the ridge where Mrs. H. T. Sloan resided
in 1905, the 400 acres appropriated was located.
First Settlers in Franklin. Joshua Roberts, Esq., built
the first house on the Jack Johnston lot, "a small round log
cabin;" but Irad S. Hightower built the first "house proper,"
one built of hewn logs on the lot where stands the Allman
hotel. Capt. N. S. Jarrett bought the first house proper,
then Gideon F. Morris got it, and then John R. Allman.
Lindsey Fortune built a cabin on the lot where the Jarrett
hotel stood in 1894, and Samuel Robinson built on the lot
occupied in 1905 by Mrs. Robinson. Silas McDowell first
built where the residence of D. C. Cunningham stood, and
Dillard Love built the first house on the Trotter lot. N. S.

COUNTY HISTORY 175
Jarrett built on the lot owned by S. L. Rogers, and John F.
Dobson first improved the corner lot owned in 1894 by C. C.
Smith. James K. Gray built the second hewn-log house on
the lot owned by Mrs. A. W. Bell, and Jesse R. Siler, one of
the first settlers, built at the foot of the town hill where Judge
G. A. Jones resided. He also built the second house on the
Gov. Robinson lot and the brick store and dwelling owned
in 1894 by the late Capt. A. P. Munday. James W. Guinn
or Mr. Whitaker built the house afterwards owned by Mr.
Jack Johnston. John R. Allman opened the first hotel in
Franklin, followed soon afterward by a house at the "foot of
the hill" built by Jesse R. Siler.24
Prominent Residents of Macon. 2 5 James Cansler was
born February 22, 1820, in Rutherford county, and died in
Macon, July 24, 1907. He aided in the removal of the Cher
okees in 1836-38, and was a captain in the Civil war. Cap
tain James G. Crawford was born May 6, 1832, and in 1855
was appointed deputy clerk, being elected sheriff in 1858. He
was a captain in the Civil War in the 39th regiment, serving
till the end. He was in the legislature, and in 1875 was elected
register of deeds, which place he held till near the end of his
life. He married Miss Virginia A. Butler. One of the early
settlers was Henry G. Woodfin, a physician and brother of
Col. N. W. Woodfin of Buncombe. He was born December
27, 1811, and was married June 5, 1838 to Miss E. A. B. How-
arth. He settled first on Cartoogechaye, but later moved to
Franklin. He was a member of the county court, serving as
chairman, and was in the legislature two terms. He died in
1881. He stood high as a physician and citizen. Dr. James M.
Lyle came to Macon before the Civil War and formed a copart
nership with Dr. Woodfin. He married Miss Laura Siler,
and after her death, he married Miss Nannie Moore. Dr.
G. N. Rush, of Coweta station, was born in 1824, in Rock
ingham county, Va., and read medicine under Dr. A. W.
Brabson, graduated in medicine at University of Nashville
in 1854. He served in the legislature in 1876-7. In 1854 he
married Miss Elizabeth Thomas. He died December 12,
1897. Dr. A. C. Brabson was born in Tennessee in 1842,
served through the Civil War, graduated from the College at
Nashville in medicine, 1866-67, married Miss Cora Rush,
March 30, 1881. Mark May, son of Frederick and Nellie

176 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
May, was born in Yadkin county December 7, 1812, and
married Belinda Beaman at the age of 24. Early in life he was
ordained a Baptist minister, coming to Macon county after
serving as a minister 17 years in Yadkin and two years in
Tennessee. He is the father of Hon. Jeff May of Flats, N. C.
Rev. Joshua Ammons was born in Burke, February 14, 1800,
and moved to Macon in 1822, settled on Rabbit creek,
was ordained a Baptist minister at Franklin in 1835, and
died September 27, 1877, after a very useful life. Logan
Berry was born December 18, 1813, in Lincoln county, and
died February 8, 1910. He married Matilda Postell of Bun
combe, served as county commissioner, and was a useful and
respected citizen. Stephen Munday was born in Person
county about the beginning of the nineteenth century but
moved to Buncombe county before the Civil War, where he
built a mill at Sulphur Springs. He then moved to Macon,
and lived with his son, the late Alexander P. Munday at
Aquone, till his death in the seventies. 2 6 He was a useful
and highly respected citizen. His son Alexander P. Munday
married Miss Addie Jarrett a daughter of the late Nimrod
S. Jarrett, and they resided first at the Meadows in what is
now Graham county about 1859, where they remained till
after the Civil War, moving thence to Aquone where they
died early in this century. Captain Nimrod S. Jarrett was
born in Buncombe county in 1800, married a Miss McKee, and
moved to Haywood county in 1830, engaging in the "sang"
business, till he moved to Macon, where he resided at Aquone
in 1835, afterwards at the Apple Tree place six miles down
the river, and still later at Jarretts station on the Murphy
railroad. He owned large tracts of mountain lands, and the
talc mine now operated at Hewitts. He was murdered in
September, 1873, by Bayless Henderson, a tramp from Ten
nessee. Henderson was executed for the crime, at Webster,
in 1874.
John Kelly. He was born in Virginia, married a Miss
Pierce, a neice and adopted daughter of Bishop Pierce, and
moved to Buncombe where he lived till about 1819, when he
moved to Macon to what is now known as the Barnard farm,
but soon moved to the Hays place, waiting for the land sale,
at which he bought a boundary of land lying in both Georgia
and North Carolina, including Mud and Kelly's creeks in

COUNTY HISTORY 177
Georgia. His third son, Samuel, was born in Westmoreland
county, Va., and in 1825 bought land six miles from Franklin,
where he lived till his death in 1852. He married Miss Mary
Harry. Three of his sons enlisted in the Confederate army,
where one was killed in battle, the other two serving till the
close of hostilities. They were N. J. and M. L. Kelly.27
Nathan G. Allman.28 He was born in Haywood, Jan
uary 5, 1818, and came to Franklin in 1846, where he lived
46 years continuously. He was a merchant and hotel keeper,
and died February 17, 1892. He was a useful and influential
citizen. Dr. W. Levy Love. He was born in Chautauqua, N. Y., Sep
tember 30, 1827, and early in life went to Kentucky with his
father. There he joined the army and went to the war in
Mexico, taking part in several battles. Returning, he was
educated at Bacon college, Kentucky, where he also studied
medicine, completing his course at Philadelphia. He then
moved to Franklin, where, in 1868, he married Miss Maggie,
a daughter of N. G. Allman. In this year he was elected to
the State senate, where he served six years. He was also a
lawyer, enjoying a fine practice. He died July 29, 1884.
He was generally known as Levi Love.
Jackson Johnston. He was born in Pendleton district,
S. C, November 25, 1820, and at sixteen years of age removed
to Waynesville, where for several years he clerked for his
brother William. While there, he married Miss Osborne of
Haywood county; late in the forties he removed to Franklin,
and became a merchant, accumulating a handsome fortune.
His first wife having died he married Miss Eugenia Siler in
1859. She was a daughter of William Siler. His hospitality
and humor were famous. He died April 10, 1892. He was
charitable, intelligent and of high character.
Thomas Tatham. He served in the State senate from Hay
wood in 1817, removed to Macon and served in the legislature
from that county from 1831 to 1834 inclusive, after which he
removed to Valley river where he died. He was a good man
and left many friends.
James Whitaker. He was born in Rowan April 3, 1779,
one mile from Lexington, now Davidson. He was a justice
of the peace in that county and removed to Buncombe in 1817,
from which, in 1818 he was elected to the legislature and
W. N.C.  12

178 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
served till 1823, and removed to Macon in 1828, lived one mile
from Franklin, and was elected to the legislature in 1828 and
served continuously till 1833. He was appointed Superior
court clerk at the first term of Cherokee county, and was
elected to the legislature from that county in 1832 and 1842.
He died on Valley river November 2, 1871, aged 92 years.
He was a man of great intellect, high character and unsullied
reputation; a stern man, a strong Baptist and did perhaps as
much for his church as any other man in the State.
Yancey. Yancey county was formed in 1833. It was cut
off from Burke and Buncombe. Three counties have since
been partly formed out of Yancey. They are: Watauga
in 1849; Madison in 1851; and Mitchell in 1861. Yancey
county is now bounded on the north by Mitchell county and
the State of Tennessee; on the east by Mitchell and McDowell
counties; on the south by McDowell and Madison; on the
west by Madison and Buncombe counties and the Tennessee
line. Mt. Mitchell, the highest mountain in the eastern half
of North America, is in Yancey county. It was named for
Dr. Elisha Mitchell, a teacher in the University, who explored
it. Mt. Mitchell is a part of the Black mountains which
extend partly across this county. Yancey county contains
eighteen mountain peaks that rise above 6,300 feet. These
mountains are very fertile and are covered with great forests
of gigantic trees. Cherry trees in Yancey often grow four
feet, the walnut eight feet, and the poplar ten feet in diameter.
The county was named for Bartlett Yancey, a native of
Caswell county. He was educated at the University of North
Carolina, studied law, and became eminent in his profession.
He was twice a member of the Congress of the United States,
and eight times a member of the senate of North Carolina.
He was one of the first men in the State to favor public schools
for all the people.
The county seat of Yancey is Burnsville, named in honor
of Capt. Otway Burns, of Beaufort, N. C. He won fame in
the war of 1812 against England. With his vessel, the "Snap-
Dragon," he sailed up and down the Atlantic coast, captur
ing many English vessels and destroying the British trade.
He had many wild adventures, and his name became a terror
to British merchants. Finally the English government sent
a war vessel, called the "Leopard," to capture Captain Burns.

COUNTY HISTORY 179
The "Leopard" succeeded in capturing the "Snap-Dragon"
while Captain Burns was on shore sick. After the war he
was frequently a member of the legislature. A monument
to his memory was recently erected at Burnsville.
Yancey has an approximate area of 193,000 acres, with an
average assessed value of $2.60 per acre. Over 40 per cent
of the land is held in large tracts of 1,000 acres or more in
extent. These holdings are valued chiefly for their timber
and are held principally as investments.
The topography is generally rough and the average eleva
tion is high. The Black mountain range in the southern
portion of the county contains many peaks more than 6,000
feet high, and Mount Mitchell, the highest peak east of the
Rockies, rises to an elevation of 6,711 feet above sea level.
In the northern and western sections of the county the ridges
have an average elevation of about 4,000 feet above sea level,
Bald mountain rising to 5,500 feet.
Four considerable streams, South Toe and Caney rivers,
and Jacks and Crabtree creeks, rise within the county, and
flowing in a northerly direction empty into Toe river, which
forms the northern boundary of the county.
Mrs. Nancy Anderson Gardner. There are many old
people in these mountains, but Mrs. Nancy Gardner of Burns
ville was 98 the 15th of January, 1913. She was in full pos
session of all her faculties, and in 1912 furnished for this his
tory a list of names of the first settlers of Yancey county.
Her husband's father was Thomas Gardner, who was born
in Virginia in 1793, and- died in Yancey in 1853. He settled
on Cane river when a boy. Her father was W. M. Anderson
and her mother Patty Elkins, who was born in Tennessee in
1790. Her parents were married in 1809. James Anderson
was from Ireland and served in Virginia with the Americans
during the Revolutionary War, after which he moved (1870),
first to Surry, and then to Little Ivy, where D. W. Angel now
lives and where Mrs. Gardner was born, January 15, 1815.
Her husband was William Gardner, to whom she was mar
ried March 22, 1832. Thomas Dillard, father of the wife of
Robert Love, was her mother's uncle. She died early in 1913.
First Settlers of Burnsville. Mrs. Gardner gave the
following as the first settlers of Burnsville: John L. Williams
and his sons Edward and Joshua; Dr. Job, Dr. John Yancey,

180 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Abner Jarvis, Dr. Jacob Stanley, Samuel Flemming, Gen.
John W. McElroy, James Greenlee, John W. Garland, "Knock"
Boone, Amos Ray, W. M. Westall, J. Bacchus Smith, Joseph
Shepard, Adam Broyles, Mitchell Broyles, W. M. Lewis,
John Woodfin, James Anderson, Milton P. Penland, Jack
Stewart and John Bailey.
First Settlers of Yancey. Among them Mrs. Gard
ner mentioned the following, giving also the names of their
wives: Henry Roland, Berry Hensley, Ed. and James
McMahan, Thomas Ray, Edward Wilson, Jacob Phipps, Jerry
Boons, Hiram Ray, John Bailey, John Griffith, Joseph Shep
ard, Strowbridge Young, James Proffitt, James Greenlee,
Blake Piercy, Thomas Briggs, John McElroy, Wm. Angel,
James Evans, W. M. Angelin, John Allen, Rev. Samuel Byrd.
Interesting Facts About Old Times. Mrs. Gardner's
grandfather, James Anderson, was said to be the first Methodist
west of the Blue Ridge. She remembered Parson Brownlow and
the "lie bill" suit and the sale of his bridle, saddle and horse;
also that William Angel lived near the present site of Burns
ville but moved to Georgia, carrying his family and "One
hundred geese, which they drove." She gave not only the
names of the wives of the first settlers, but their children,
and where the first settlers lived. Also, that John Bailey
married Hiram Ray's daughter and donated the land for the
town of Burnsville; that Joseph Shepard married Betsy Hor
ton, the grandparents of the late Judge J. S. Adams; that
Thomas Ray married Ivey Hensley and lived in Cane river
valley; that Jacob Phipps married Nancy Hampton, and
lived four miles west of Burnsville; that Edward Wilson mar
ried Polly Gilbert and lived on Cane river; that Jerry Boone
was a noted blacksmith and married Sallie McMahan. They
lived where Burnsville now stands; also that Hiram Ray
married a Miss Cox and was a wealthy and influential man.
Also that Zepheniah Horton lived one mile west of Burns
ville, but none of his descendants now live in Yancey, though
some live in Buncombe and the State of Kansas; that Henry
Roland married Sallie Robinson and lived on Cane river; that
Berry Hensley married Betsy Littleton, among whose de
scendants were B. S., W., and Jas. B. Hensley. Edward and
James McMahan were the first settlers of Pensacola, and
Strowbridge Young married Patty Wilson. She spoke of

COUNTY HISTORY 181
James Proffitt as having lived on Bald creek, and of his direct
descendants, but did not give the name of his wife. She
also spoke of James Greenlee as having married Polly Poteet
and living on Cane river, but having had no children; Blake
Piercy who married Fanny Turner, and lived on Indian creek,
Thomas Briggs who married Jane Wilson and lived on Bald
creek, John McElroy who married Miss Jamison and lived
on Bald creek, James Evans who married a Miss Bailey and
lived on Jack's creek, W. M. Angelin who married Miss Betsy
Austin and lived on Banks creek, John Allen who married.
Molly Turner, and the Rev. Samuel Byrd who married a Miss
Briggs and lived in the northern part of the county, naming
many of his descendants.
Fine River Bottoms. Those splendid lands, extending
from the mouth of Prices creek up Cane river to within two
or three miles of Burnsville, were in possession of white people
as early as 1787, and were originally granted to John McKnitt
Alexander and Wm. Sharp. The 640-acre tract at the mouth
of Bald and Prices creeks is owned by descendants of Thomas
L. Ray, who was among the first settlers of Yancey county.
The Creed Young place, originally the John Griffith farm,
on Crabtree, about two miles from Burnsville, is another fine
farm. Milton P. Penland was another early settler, and
owned valuable land near Burnsville. He was a man of
influence and ability.
Celo or Bolen's Pyramid. What is known on govern
ment maps as Celo Peak used to be called Bolen's Pyramid;
but why either name should have been given to this northern
most peak of the Blacks is not known, though, as there is a
Bolen's creek between it and Burnsville, it is probable that a
man of that name once lived near what is now called Athlone.
Henderson County. 3 ° Until 1838 Henderson was a part
of Buncombe, and the story of its first settlement belongs to
that county. . . . But in 1838, when Hodge Rabun was
in the senate and Montreville Patton and Philip Brittain were
in the house, it was erected into a separate county and named
in honor of Leonard Henderson, once chief justice of the
State, the county seat also having been named in his honor.
In 1850 it had only 6,483 population, while in 1910 it contained
16,262.

182 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
"The crest of the Blue Ridge, in Henderson county, is an
undulating plateau, which will not be recognized by the trav
eler in crossing. The Saluda mountains, beyond Green river,
are the boundary line of vision on the south. The general
surface features of the central part of this pearl of counties
will be best seen by a glance at the pictorial view from Dun
Cragin, near HendersonviUe."31
With a general altitude about that of Asheville, with broad
river bottoms along the French Broad, Mud creek and else
where, its agricultural and grazing advantages surpass those
of Buncombe; while as a summer and health resort, Hender
sonviUe, its county seat, with its fine and well-kept hotels
and boarding houses, surpasses in many important respects
the only town that exceeds it in population, the famed city
of Asheville. The social charm of this beautiful place, as well
as of Flat Rock and Fletcher, is at least not surpassed in
Buncombe or in Asheville itself. HendersonviUe has every
thing in the way of hotels, boarding houses, clubs, banks,
street railways, parks, lights, water, livery and other advan
tages that could be wished. The points of interest in the
immediate vicinity are numerous and appealing. Last sum
mer there were 15,000 visitors in town and 25,000 in the
county. The churches represent every denomination.
John Clayton, of Mills river section, was in the legislature
in 1827 and 1828, and in the senate in 1833. Largely through
his influence Henderson was formed into a separate county.
He was the grandfather of Mrs. Mattie Fletcher Egerton,
first wife of Dr. J. L. Egerton and great-grandfather of Mrs.
Wm. Redin Kirk. He with his son, John, was among the
first jurors of this county. R. Irvine Allen, brother of Dr.
T. A. AUen, the latter being the oldest male inhabitant of this
county, and Jesse Rhodes were among the chain-bearers when
the county lines were first surveyed. A committee, consist
ing of Col. John Clayton, Col. Killian, and Hugh Johnston,
was appointed to select and lay off a county seat, and their
first choice was the land at what is now called Horse Shoe in 1839.
But there was so much dissatisfaction with this that two
factions arose, called the River and the Road parties, the
River party favoring the Horse Shoe site, it having been on
the French Broad river. In 1839, however, the Road party
enjoined the sale in lots of the land selected at Horse Shoe, and

COUNTY HISTORY 183

the controversy soon waxed so warm that the legislature
authorized an election to determine the matter by popular
vote, resulting in the success of the Road party. Judge
Mitchell King of Charleston, S. C, who had been among the
first settlers of this section and owned much of the land where
HendersonviUe now stands, conveyed fifty acres for the county
site; and this was laid off into lots and broad, level right-angled
streets, and sold in 1840. Dr. Allen died early in 1914.
Hendersonville. At the time the Civil War commenced
there were on Main street, the Episcopal church, completed
save for the spire; the Shipp house, adjoining, which for
merly stood where the Pine Grove lodge now stands, and where
Lawyer Shipp, father of Bartlett Shipp, Esq., lived. The
present Sample home was then owned by the Rev. Collin
Hughes, the Episcopal clergyman. The old Virginia House
stood on the corner now occupied by the First National bank,
and was built by David Miller and William Deaver, the latter
having been killed in the Civil War. It was conducted many
years by Mr. C. C. Chase; but about eighteen years ago it
became the property of Hall Poole. A still older house was
the old hotel built by John Mills, and stood on the present
site of the St. John. It later became the property of Colonel
Ripley, and was known far and wide as the Ripley House.
There was nothing south of the court house site except the
old Ripley residence, built by the Kings, and the house that
is now Col. Pickens' residence. The only two houses stand
ing prior to the formation of Henderson county in the town
of HendersonviUe, and remaining unchanged now, are the
Arledge house on Main street, and the stone office-building in
front of the Pine Grove lodge, near the Episcopal church.
Bowman's Bluff. About forty years ago a small colony
of English people came to this section, and bought a vast
acreage of land. Among them were the Valentines, well
known in Hendersonville for many years, the Thomases,
the Jeudweines, the Malletts (who still live on their place)
and the Holmeses, still owning the place above referred to. It
would be hard to describe this beautiful place. To the south
of the old-fashioned house lies a tangle of garden, with its
riot of vines, and its numerous overgrown arbors, and old
trees trimmed in fantastic shapes. The house is approached
by a long winding drive, between great old pines, and just in

184 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
front of the house is the immense bluff, whereon wild crab-
apples bloom in profusion. This falls away, a sheer descent
many feet to the river below, and it was here that Mary
Bowman was said to have leaped to her death many years ago,
desperate over a hopeless love.
Centrally located to what was this English colony and on
top of a hill, sits the little Episcopal church where they were
wont to worship on Sunday, and which is used irregularly
still. Mr. Frank Valentine, who came to America in this colony,
was educated at Cambridge, England, graduated with highest
honor, holding several degrees. He went from Bowman's
Bluff to Asheville, and later moved to Hendersonville, where
he spent his remaining days. He was known as one of the
finest educators in Western North Carolina.
Former Citizens. Peter Stradley lived at Old Flat Rock,
and in 1870 died there almost 100 years old, highly respected
and loved; Joseph Dotson lived to the age of 104 on his farm
near Bat Cave, and made baskets and brooms. He was cap
tured while in the Confederate army but escaped, running 18
miles over the ice. Govan Edney of Edneyville, also lived to
a great age, and had a large experience as a hunter. Harvey
Johnston and his wife once owned nearly all the land on the
west side of South Main street, Hendersonville, and having
no horse, managed to make fine crops notwithstanding. Robert
Thomas, first sheriff of Henderson county, was killed by bush
whackers during the Civil War. Solomon Jones lived on Mount
Hebron, and was known as a builder of roads, having con
structed one from Hendersonville to Mount Hebron, and an
other up Saluda mountain; lived to be nearly 100, and made
his own tombstone.
Business Enterprises. The Freeze Hosiery mills were
opened June 15, 1912; the Skyland Hosiery Co., at Flat Rock
make silk and cotton hose and have been operating several
years; the Green River Mfg. Co., at Tuxedo, six miles south
of Hendersonville, was started in 1909. They make combed
peelers and Egyptain yarns, their annual output being 350,-
000 pounds; employing 250 hands, of whom 200 are skilled. They
support an excellent school eight months every year; the Case
Canning factory on the Edneyville road six miles from Hen
dersonville, at Dana, has a capacity of 500,000fcans a season;

COUNTY HISTORY 185

the Hendersonville Light & Power Co., 7J^ miles east of Hen
dersonville, have 1,250 horsepower, using only 400 at present;
George Stephens operates a mission furniture factory, at Lake
Kanuga, six miles out, where also is Kanuga club.
Country Resorts. Besides the excellent hotels in Hender
sonville, there is a fine hotel at Osceola lake, one mile from
town on the Kanuga road; Kanuga club on Kanuga lake;
Highland lake club, one and a half miles out on the Flat Rock
road, with cottages, is a stock company; Chimney Rock,
twelve miles east, is in the Hickory Nut canon; Buck Forest,
now the property of the Frank Coxe estate, was for years a sum
mer resort, and the falls in the vicinity are noted; Fletcher,
near the Buncombe line is also popular, and the social charms
of the neighborhood are well recognized; Buck Shoals is near,
and the famous Rugby Grange, the attractive country estate
of the Westfelts of New Orleans, is one of the "show-places"
of Western North Carolina.
A Literary Curiosity. A poem written on white satin in
quatrain form, into each of which was incorporated a clause
of the Lord's prayer, is known to have been written by Mrs.
Susan Baring and is now in the possession of a Henderson
ville lady.
Settling the Graham Boundary Line. By ch. 202, Pub.
Laws, 1897, 343, the county surveyors of Cherokee and Gra
ham were authorized to locate the line between these two coun
ties and Tennessee, according to the calls of the act of 1821.
Cherokee and Murphy. As early as 1836 the legislature
provided that the Indian lands west of Macon should remain
under the jurisdiction of that county till a new county should
be formed for them, whose county seat should be named Mur
phy. (Rev. St. 1837, Vol. ii, p. 213 and p. 214). In 1842
the State granted to A. Smith, chairman of the County court,
433 acres for a court house, etc. (Deed Book A, p. 429,
dated March 23, 1842.) 3 2
Old County Buildings. The old jail was back of the J.
W. Cooper residence and the whipping post stood near where
a street now runs, and the first court house, a very plain and
unpretentious affair, stood at the intersection of the two main
roads from the country. The new court house was built
where the present one now stands, in 1891, at a cost of about
$20,000., but it was burned in 1892. In 1893 and 1894 it

186 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
was rebuilt, as the marble foundations and brick walls stood
intact after the fire, at a cost of $12,000. There was no
insurance on the burned building.
Preeminent Advantages. Murphy's location between two
clear mountain rivers, its broad and almost level streets, its
fine court house, schools and hotels form the nucleus around
which a large city should grow. It has two competing rail
roads, and a climate almost ideal. Its citizens, too, are enter
prising and progressive, good streets and roads being appre
ciated highly
Murphy's First Citizens. Daniel F. Ramseur kept the
old "Long Hotel," with offices, that used to stand near the public
square. Felix Axley was the father of the Murphy bar and of
F. P. and J. C. Axley. J. C. Abbott lived at the old A. T.
Davidson place, and was a leading merchant after the Civil
War. Samuel Henry, deceased, was an ante-bellum resident,
was U. S. Commissioner for years, and a friend of the late
U. S. District Judge R. P. Dick. A. M. Dyche (pronounced
Dike) was sheriff, justice of the peace and a good citizen. S.
G. R. Mount was postmaster and lived in the southern part
of town. Dr. John W. Patton was a leading physician and
lived near Hiwassee bridge. Mercer Fain lived where the
Regal hotel stands now, and was a merchant, farmer and land
speculator. Benjamin S. Brittain lived in East Murphy from
the organization of the county till his death, and was register
of deeds. Drewry Weeks lived on the northeast corner of the
Square and was from the organization of the county till his
death clerk of the old county court. Seth Hyatt, sheriff,
lived where Capt. J. W. Cooper afterwards resided. John
son King lived where S. Hyatt had lived, and married his
widow. He was a partner of the late Col. W. H. Thomas,
and the father of Hon. Mark C. King, several terms in the
legislature. Dr. C T. Pagers was another leading physician.
Jesse Brooks was ¦?. i.ierchant and lived on what is now Church
street. G. L. D. McClelland lived first on Church and after
wards on the east side of Main street and lived to be over
ninety years of age, being highly esteemed. William Berry
was a merchant and farmer; Xenas Hubbard was a tinner;
James Grant was a merchant and kept store where the Dickey
hotel now stands; John Rolen was a lawyer; J. J. Turnbill was
a blacksmith, and a man of unusual sense.

COUNTY HISTORY 187

William Beale. This scholarly man came to Murphy
from Canada just prior to the Civil War and taught school;
was several times sheriff, and lived on the south side of Hi
wassee bridge.
David and John Henesea. Just after the Civil War they
moved from a fine farm at the head of Valley river. John
kept a hotel, now the residence of C. E. Wood.
James W. Cooper. He moved to Murphy from Graham
soon after the Civil War, and was a most successful lawyer
and land speculator.
Residents of Cherokee County. Among the more prom
inent may be mentioned Abraham Harshaw, the largest slave
owner, four miles south of Murphy; John Harshaw, his
brother; Abraham Sudderth, who owned the Mission farm six
miles south of Murphy, where Rev. Humphrey Posey had
established a mission school for the Cherokees; William Strange
owned a fine farm at the mouth of Brasstown creek; Gideon
Morris, a Baptist preacher, who married Yonaguska's daughter;
Andrew Moore; David Taylor; David Henesea; James W. C.
Piercy, who, from the organization of the county till his death,
located most of the land in Cherokee; James Tatham, the father
of Purd and Bent, who lived a mile west of Andrews; James
Whitaker and his son Stephen, who lived near Andrews;
Hugh Collett and his father, who lived just above Old Valley
Town and were men of industry and integrity; Buck and
Neil Colvard, who lived at Tomotla; Wm. Welch, who lived
in the same neighborhood; and Henry Moss, who lived at
Marble, Ute Hyatt living on the adjoining farm. Elisha P.
Kincaid lived four miles east of Murphy, and above him lived
Betty Welch, or Betty Bly or Blythe, the heroine of Judge
Strange's romance, "Yonaguska." John Welch was her hus
band, a half-breed Cherokee, and an "Avenger of Blood."
(See ch. 26.) In the western part of the county were Burton
K. and George Dickey, Wm. C. Walker, who was killed at
the close of the Civil War, having been colonel of the 29th
N. C. regiment; Abel S. Hill, sheriff; Calvin C. Vest; and
others, who lived on Notla. In the northern part lived Har
vey Davidson, sheriff and farmer; and the Hunsuckers, Black-
wells, Longwoods, Gentrys and others. Goldman Bryson
lived on Beaver Dam, and was said to have been at the head

188 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
of a band of banditti during the Civil War, and was followed
into the mountains and killed by a party of Confederates.
Andrew and Jeff Colvard were founders of large and influen
tial families. They were bold and daring frontiersmen and
citizens of character and ability. "Old Rock Voyles, " as he
was affectionately called, lived on Persimmon creek, ten miles
from Murphy, and was a man of originality and humor. He
lived to a great age.
A Cemetery in the Cliffs. All along the crest of the
ridges which terminate in rock cliffs on the bank of the Hi
wassee river about one mile below Murphy are large deposits
of human bones, supposed to be the bones of Cherokees. The
number of shallow graves on the crests of these ridges, cov
ered over by cairns of loose stones, indicate that this must
have been the burial place of Indians for many years.
Early Watauga and Boone History. The first court in
Watauga was held in an old barn near the home of Joseph
Hardin one mile east of Boone, Judge Mitchell presiding,
and E. C. Bartlett being clerk. The first court house was
built in Boone in 1850 by John Horton for $4,000, but was
burned in 1873, with the records. The records were restored
afterwards by legislative authority upon satisfactory evidence
being furnished, and T. J. Coffey & Bro. in 1874 rebuilt the
court house for $4,800, the building committee having been
Henry Taylor, Dudley Farthing and Jacob Williams. The
present fine court house was erected in 1904 by L. W. Cooper
of Charlotte for $19,000. Alex. Green, J. W. Hodges and
George Robbins were the county commissioners. The first
jail was of brick and built by Mr. Dammons for $400, and the
second jail was a wooden building of heavy logs. On the sec
ond floor the timbers were twelve inches square, crossed with
iron, and when it was torn away by W. P. Critcher in 1909
the logs were made into lumber of the finest grade. A splen
did new jail, with iron cages and rooms, was built in 1889 by
Wm. Stephenson of Mayesville, Ky., for $5,000. The follow
ing have been sheriffs of Watauga : Michael Cook, John
Horton, Cob McCanles, Sidney Deal, A. J. McBride, John
Horton, A. J. McBride, D. F. Baird, J. L. Hayes, D. F.
Baird, J. L. Hayes, D. F. Baird, W. M. Calloway, W. B. Baird,
J. H. Hodges, D. C. Reagan. The following have been clerks:
Mr. McClewee, J. B. Todd, Henry Blair, W. J. Critcher, J.

COUNTY HISTORY 189
B. Todd, M. B. Blackburn, J. H. Bingham, Thomas Bingham,
W. D. Farthing.
W. L. Bryan in 1872 started the Bryan hotel and conducted
a first class hotel for 27 years. In 1865 T. J. Coffey & Bro.
came to Boone, and started the Coffey hotel, where they main
tained an up-to-date stopping place for many years. It is
now being conducted by Mr. Murry Critcher.
In 1858 Marcus Holesclaw, Thomas Greene and William
Horton ran for the legislature upon the issue of moving the
court house from Boone to Brushy Fork, and Holesclaw was
elected by one vote. This meant that the court house must
be moved; and Holesclaw introduced the bill for that pur
pose; but Joe Dobson represented this district in the senate,
and although he was from Surry county, he managed to keep
Holesclaw's bill at the foot of the calendar until the legisla
ture adjourned. Of course, Holesclaw was never satisfied
that his bill never reached a vote in the senate.
From ordinary circumstances L. L. Green came from the
farm, studied law and became a leader in politics; was elected
judge and performed his duties well. His portrait hangs in the
court room, to the left of the judge's stand, while on the right
is a portrait of his friend, Major Bingham, who was a fine law
yer and a great teacher of law. His name and fame went out
over the whole State.
E. Spencer Blackburn was one of the most attractive men
this section has produced. His father was Edward Blackburn,
and his mother Sinthia Hodges. He was one of nine chil
dren. He was four times nominated for Congress, was elected
twice; was assistant district attorney of the United States
court, and died at Elizabethtown early in 1912.
W. B. CounciU was a student of the learned Col. G. N.
Folk, who after being admitted to the bar was elevated to the
position of judge of the Superior court of this judicial district.
He declined a renomination.
A Family of Preachers. William Farthing came as a
missionary from Wake county to Beaver Dams, now in Wa
tauga county, about 1826, but lived only three months after
settling there. He bought what was then known as the Webb
farm, about one-half mile from the principal Baptist church
of that settlement. He had owned many acres near Durham
before going to the mountains. His sons and those of John,

190 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
his brother, who soon followed him to Watauga, were men
of the highest character and standing. Many of them have
been preachers, and four brothers of his family were in the
ministry. Like the descendants of the original Casper Cable
who settled on Dry Run, just in the edge of Tennessee, no
drop of rowdy blood ever developed in any of the descendants
of the pioneer Farthings. Dudley, son of Wm. Farthing, was
for years judge of the county court and chairman of the board of
county commissioners.
The Browns of Watauga. Joseph Brown came from
Wilkes to Watauga long before the Civil War, and settled at
Three Forks, where he married Annie Haigler, and reared
eight children. Captain Barton Roby Brown of May Mead,
Tenn., was a grandson, and married Callie Wagner in 1864.
He was in the Sixth North Carolina cavalry, and a gallant
soldier. The Mast Family. Joseph Mast, the first of the name to
come to Valle Crucis, Watauga county, was born in Randolph
county, N. C, March 25, 1764, and on the 30th of May,
1783, married Eve Bowers who had been born between the
Saluda and Broad rivers, South Carolina, December 30, 1758.
Joseph was a son of John, who was brother of the Jacob Mast
who became bishop of the Amish Mennonite church in Cones-
toga, Pa., in 1788. They had left their native Switzerland
together, and sailed from Rotterdam in the ship "Brother
hood," which reached Philadelphia November 3, 1750. John
Mast was born in 1740, and shortly after becoming 20 years
of age left his brother Jacob, who had married and was living
near the site of what is now Elverson, Pa. John wandered
on foot through many lonely forests, but finally settled in
Randolph county, where Joseph was born. There he married
a lady whose given name was Barbara. From Joseph and
Eve Mast have descended many of the most substantial and
worthy citizens of Western North Carolina, while the Mast
family generally are people of influence and standing in Penn
sylvania, Ohio, Nebraska, Iowa, Montana, Oregon, Florida,
Illinois, Missouri, California, Kansas, and in fact nearly
every State in the Union. C. Z. Mast of Elverson, Pa., in
1911, published a volume of nearly a thousand pages all of
which are devoted to an excellent record of all the Masts in
America. John A. Mast was born on Brushy creek Sep-

COUNTY HISTORY 191
tember 22, 1829. He married Martha Moore of Johns river,
December 5, 1850. He died February 6, 1892. His pater
nal grandfather, John Mast, and maternal grandfather, Cut-
liff Harman, were among the pioneers of this section, and
were Germans, settling on Cove creek. His wife, Martha
Mast, was born April 13, 1833. She died February 15, 1905.
The Moretz Family. John Moretz came from Lincoln-
ton long before the Civil War and settled on Meat Camp,
seven miles from Boone, where he built and operated a large
mill, which was burned but rebuilt. He prospered greatly,
and his descendants are numerous and influential.
The Shull Family. Philip P. ShuU was born at Valle
Crucis, February 15, 1797, and married Phcebe Ward of
Tennessee. He died January 9, 1866. His father, Simon
Shull was one of the first settlers of this country, having been
a German, and settled near Valle Crucis. His wife, Phcebe-
was born May 28, 1801, and died September 29, 1882. Jo
seph Shull, who was desperately wounded in May, 1863, at the
Wilderness fight, is a son of Philip P. Shull.
The Councill Family. Jordan CounciU, Sr., was the first
of the name to settle in Watauga, then Ashe county. He mar
ried Sally, the daughter of Benjamin Howard, and from them
have descended a long line of virile men and lovely women,
who for years have been the backbone of this section.
Other First Settlers were Amos and Edward Greene
near Blowing Rock; Ransom Hayes at Boone; Jackson, Steven
and Abner Farthing at Beaver Dams, James McCanless,
Elisha Coffey, Amos Greene, Isaac Greene, Lee Foster and
Joel Moody, at and near Shull's Mills; Maiden Harmon, Cal
vin Harmon, Seaton Mast, Lorenzo Whittington, and George
Moody, on Cove creek. Henry Taylor came to Valle Crucis
long before the Civil War and married a Miss Mast.
Forgot How to Make an "S." In the graveyard of the
old German Reformed church, one mile from Blowing Rock,
is an old gravestone which, tradition says, was brought by a
Mr. Sullivan from the Jersey settlement in Davidson county
for the purpose, as he stated, of "starting a graveyard." On
it are carved or scratched the following letters and numbers:
E E g 1794.
This stone is said to mark the grave of the pioneer who
brought it to Blowing Rock. But whether he died or was born

192 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
in the year given, is not known. It is quite evident that he
had forgotten in which way an "S" is turned.
Jackson County. While the late Michael Francis was in
the senate and R. G. A. Love was in the house from Haywood
in 1850-52, Jackson county was formed with Webster as the
county seat. Daniel Webster had just died, and the naming
of this town for him was a graceful concession to the Whig
element of the country, while giving to "Old Hickory" the
honor of naming the county for him pleased the Democrats.
Col. Thaddeus D. Bryson, a son of Daniel Bryson of Scott's
creek, was the first representative in the house from Jackson,
while Col. W. H. Thomas represented it in the senate. John
R. Dills, a member of the large and influential Dills family of
Dillsborough, represented this county in 1856. Joseph Keener,
an influential and valuable citizen represented the county in
1862, followed by W. A. Enloe, a representative of the ex
tensive and leading Enloe family of Jackson. Following are
the names of some of the more prominent legislators : J. N.
Bryson, E. D. Davis, G. W. Spake, F. H. Leatherwood, J. W.
Terrell, J. M. Candler, R. H. Brown, W. A. Dills, C. C.
Cowan, and John B. Ensley. The late John B. Love lived
near Webster, and kept a store, W. H. Thomas being a part
ner for a while. Mr. Love owned much of the land in that
section, and his sons settled on Scott's creek from Addie to
Sylva. He also owned the famous "Gold Spring," near the
head of Tuckaseegee, in the basin of which a small amount
of gold was deposited each morning; but a blast ruined even
that small contribution. He married a Miss Comans of Wake
county. Philip Dills was another pioneer, and was born in
Rutherford, January 10, 1808, and came with his father to
Haywood soon after his birth, and about the time Abraham
Enloe settled on Soco creek. . . . He was a useful and
respected citizen. Abraham Battle was born in Haywood in
1809, and his father was one of the three men who came from
Rutherford to Haywood with Abraham Enloe. Wm. H. Con-
ley was another important citizen of Jackson before Swain was
taken from it, and was born in 1812 within fifteen miles of
Abraham Enloe's Ocona Lufty place, his father, James Con-
ley having been the first white man to settle on that stream.
James W. Terrell was born in Rutherford county, December
31, 1829, and at sixteen years of age, came to Haywood and

COUNTY HISTORY 193

lived with his grandfather, Wm. D. Kilpatrick, till 1852, when
he went into business with the late Col. Wm. H. Thomas.
In 1854 he was made disbursing agent for the Cherokees,
was a captain in the Civil War, and in the legislature for sev
eral terms. The late Daniel Bryson kept a hotel or stopping
place on the turnpike road below Hall's and above Addie, in
the turn of the road, where all the judges and lawyers stopped
while attending the courts of the wetsern circuit. He was a
most excellent and useful citizen, and left several sons who
have been prominent and influential citizens. Rev. William
Hicks lived in Webster after the Civil War, where he taught
school for two years; but in 1868 he was appointed presiding
elder and moved to Hendersonville where he remained till
1873, when he returned to Webster and resumed his school.
Later he moved to Quallatown where he taught school till
he was appointed to a district in West Virginia, where he
afterwards died. He was a fine public speaker, a Confeder
ate soldier, a member of the Secession convention from Hay
wood in 1861, and with Rev. J. R. Long, in 1855, built up a
large school near the junction of Richland and Raccoon creeks,
giving the place the name of Tuscola. This school flourished
till the beginning of the Civil War. Mr. Hicks also edited
The Herald of Truth, a newspaper in Asheville, for a few years.
He was born in Sullivan county, Tennessee, in 1820, became
a Methodist preacher and came to Buncombe in 1848, hold
ing that year the first conference ever held in Haywood, the
meeting being held at Bethel church.
Webster and the Railroad. With the coming of the
railroad, Webster, the county seat, found itself about three
miles from that artery of trade and travel; and, soon after
ward, an agitation began for the removal of the court house
to Dillsboro or Sylva, and has continued ever since. The
question was submitted to the people but they voted to retain
Webster as the county site; a new court house was built, and
it was supposed that the matter had been settled forever; but
in 1913 a more vigorous movement was started to change the
county court house to Sylva, which offered a bonus in case it
should be done. The legislature of 1913 authorized the people
to vote on the proposition, and the result changed the county
site to a point between Dillsboro and Sylva, May 8, 1913.
Webster is a pretty little town with many attractive and
W. N. G.  13

194 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
useful citizens. The improvements along the line of railroad
from Hall's to Whittier have been remarkable. The talc mine
and factory of C. J. Harris at Dillsboro, the nickel mine nearer
Webster of W. J. Adams, and the tannic acid plant at Sylva
contribute much to the prosperity of these towns and to that
of the county generally. With a railroad up Tuckaseegee a
large tract of timber will find an outlet, and the copper mine
on that stream may come into development. Jackson is a
rich and productive county and its people are thriving and
energetic. Lake Fairfield and Inn, and Lake Sapphire are
in this county on Horsepasture creek. EUicotte mountain is
near the extreme eastern end of the county. Cashiers Val
ley, Chimneytop, Whiteside Cove and mountain, Glenville,
East LaPorte, Cullowhee and Painter are places of interest
and importance.
Scott's Creek. As this creek was. on the eastern border
of the Cherokee country from which the Indians were removed,
and as Gen. Winfield Scott was in charge of their removal in
1835-38, some suppose that the creek took its name from him;
but in two grants to Charles McDowell, James Glascow and
David Miller, dated December 3, 1795, (Buncombe Deed Book
No. 4, p. 104) the State conveyed 300 acres on the waters of
Scott's creek, waters of Tuckaseegee river, including the forks
of Scotts creek and "what was said to be Scott's old lick
blocks," and on the same date there was a further grant to
the same parties to 300 acres on the same stream, including a
cane brake, with the same reference to Scott's old lick blocks.
(Book 8, p. 85.) But a careful search revealed no grant to
any Scott in that section at or near that time; and the Scott
who gave his name to this fine stream was doubtless but a
landless squatter who was grazing and salting his cattle on
the wild lands of that day. He probably lived in Haywood
county, near the head of Richland creek.
Madison County. It was formed in 1851 from Buncombe
and Yancey; it was named for James Madison, while its county
seat bears the name of the great chief justice, John Marshall.
Jewel Hill or Lapland? It is almost forgotten that the
postoffice at what is now Marshall was called Lapland in
1858, and that it used to be said that pegged shoes were first
made there because the hills so enclose the place that it would
be impossible for a shoemaker to draw out his thread to the

COUNTY HISTORY 195
full width of his arms, and consequently had to hammer in
pegs, which he could do by striking up and down. It is also
uncertain whether the name of Madison's first county seat
is Jewel Hill or Duel Hill. One thing, however, is certain,
and it is that there once was a spirited contest over keeping
the seat of government there. There were several "settle
ments" which desired to become the county seat of Madison
county, Lapland, on the French Broad river, being barred by
the act of the legislature (1850-1), which provides that the
"county seat is to be called Marshall which is not to be
within two miles of the French Broad river. The principal
candidates for this honor were "Bryants," Barnards and
Jewel Hill. The last named was selected at first and several
terms of court were held there.
The location of the county site at Jewel Hill soon proved
unsatisfactory, and the legislature of 1852-53 appointed a com
mission to fix the plan for a county government. They de
cided on what is now Marshall "on lands of T. B. Vance where
Adolphus E. Baird now lives." But a doubt as to the legality
of this selection was immediately raised, though the county
offices remained at Jewel Hill. But David Vance, in order
to comply with the terms of the act, deeded to Madison
county fifty acres of land for a town site, by deed dated April
20, 1853. 33
The location of the county site entered into the politics of
that year, and the legislature of 1854-55 (ch. 97, Pr. Laws)
passed an act which provided for an election to be held the
first Thursday in June, 1855, to determine whether the new
location should stand or another location be chosen. In
case a new location should be decided on, a commission of nine
citizens was named, any five of whom might determine the
new location; or if five did not agree, then they were to name
two places, one of which should be on the French Broad river,
one of which was to be chosen by a majority of the voters at
an election to be held at a time to be fixed by the county court.
The act further provided that "if the Supreme court now
sitting [February, 1855] should decide that the location of the
county seat at Adolphus Baird's" was lawful, then this act
should be null and inoperative. Pursuant to this act the
question as to whether the location of the county site at Adol-'
phus E. Baird's should stand or a new location be chosen was

196 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
decided at a popular election held on the first Thursday in
June, 1855, pursuant to the act of 1852-53, and an order of the
county court made at its April term, 1855. 3 4 The votes
for and against the present location, however, is not stated
in the minutes; but there is a tradition that Marshall won
by only one vote. At the fall term, 1855, of this court, a
building committee was appointed and the building of a brick
court house decided upon, which was ordered to be built in
1856. The records show, however, that the county court
was still held at Jewel Hill up to the fall of 1859. There
appears to be no record of any litigation to test the legality of
the selection of the commissioners under the Act of 1852-53,
notwithstanding the allusion to such a suit in the act itself.
Old Residents of Madison. Dr. W. A. Askew was born
on Spring creek in August, 1832, his father having been G. C.
Askew, and his mother Sarah H. Lusk, daughter of Wm. Lusk,
and a sister of Col. Virgil S. Lusk of Asheville. There were
only four men living on Spring creek when G. C. Lusk settled
there in 1820, and they were Wm. and Sam Lusk, a Mr. Craw
ford and Wm. Garrett. Later on Wm. Moody and Josiah
Duckett of South Carolina, a soldier of the Revolution, came.
Wm. Woody also lived there, and his son Jonathan H. Woody
moved to Cataloochee and married, first Malinda Plemmons,
and afterwards Mrs. Mary Caldwell, a widow. The Gaha-
gans and Tweeds lived on Laurel, while on Turkey creek Jacob
Martin, James Alexander, A. M. Gudger, R. L. Gudger, Wm.
Penland, Robert Hawkins, Irwin West and John Alexander
lived and prospered. Col James M. Lowrie, a half-brother
of Gov. Swain, with John Wells, John Reeves, lived on Sandy
Mush. Ebbitt Jones also lived on Sandy Mush; and on Lit
tle Sandy Mush G. D. Robertson, Jackson Reeves, Jacob
and John Glance and others lived. Nathaniel Davis, Nathan
Worley and the Worleys lived on Pine creek. James Nichols
married a Barnard and lived at Marshall. Robert Farnsworth
lived and died at Jewel Hill, where Mrs. Clark now lives,
and was a son of David Farnsworth who kept a stock stand
on the French Broad. James Gudger and his wife Annie Love
also lived in this county, and Col. Gudger was a delegate to
the State convention of 1835.
Alleghany County. 3 6 "Alleghany" is, in the language of the
Delaware Indians, "a fine stream." Up to 1858-59 Alleghany

COUNTY HISTORY 197
was a part of Ashe. Wm. Raleigh and Elijah Thompson of
Surry, James B. Gordon of Wilkes, and Stephen Thomas and
John F. Green of Ashe were appointed commissioners by the
act creating the county to locate the county seat, and had
power to purchase or receive as a gift 100 acres for the use of
such county, upon which the county site, to be called Sparta,
should be located. In April, 1859 Wm. C. DeJournett, a
Frenchman, of Wilkes, made a survey and plat locating the
center of the county; James H. Parks and David Evans donated
50 acres where Sparta now stands, near the geographical
center located by DeJournett, but the deed was destroyed
by a fire which burned Col. Allen Gentry's house, and another
deed was executed in 1866. In 1859 the county court ap
pointed commissioners to lay off and make sales of town lots,
but at the next term revoked their appointment and directed
them not to proceed. A mandamus was asked and the Supe
rior and Supreme courts both ordered that it be granted; but
nothing further seems to have been done till the April term,
1866, when the county court appointed F. J. McMillan, Rob
ert Gambill, Sr., James H. Parks, Morgan Edwards and S.
S. Stamper commissioners to lay off and sell lots from the
tract donated for a county seat, etc.; and at the October
term following these commissioners were directed to adver
tise for bids for building a court house, etc. But, at the Jan
uary term, 1867, all bids were rejected and the plans altered
so that the court house and jail should be in one and the same
building. This was the first term held in Sparta, and the
court was composed of Morgan Bryan and Wm. L. Mitchell.
The first term of the Superior court was held at Sparta in the
spring of 1868, with Anderson Mitchell as presiding judge,
J. C. Jones, sheriff, and W. L. Mitchell as foreman of the
grand jury. Stephen Landreth was officer in charge of the
grand jury.
Before the Revolution. It seems that there were no
settlers in Alleghany prior to the Revolutionary War; but
it had been visited by hunters both from Virginia and the cen
tral part of this State, among whom were three brothers
named Maynard from what is now Surry, who crossed the Blue
Ridge and built cabins along Glade creek. This was about
1786, and they had lived there about six years when Francis
Bryan, from Orange county, in 1793, located within five miles

198 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
of them. About the same time Joel Simmons, Wm. Wood
ruff and  Crouce settled along the top of the Blue
Ridge, thus making seven families in the county. But this
was too much for the Maynard brothers, and claiming that
the country was too thickly settled, they moved to Kentucky.
But who was the first white man to visit this section is un
known; though Wm. Taylor, the Coxes, GambiUs and Reeves
probably lived in the borders of what is now Alleghany during
the Revolutionary War. Two men named Edwards settled
here also at an early date, viz: David and William Edwards.
John McMillan came from Scotland in 1790 and was the first
clerk of Ashe court. Joseph Doughton from Franklin county,
Va., was an early settler, and represented Ashe in the House
of Commons in 1877. Joseph Doughton was the youngest
son of Joseph. This family has always been prominent in
the county. H. F. Jones built the present court house for
$3,475, and it was received September 4, 1880, J. T. Hawthorn
and Alex. Hampton, building committee.
Principal Office-Holders. The following are the names
of those who have held the principal offices in the county.
Senators: 1879, Jesse Bledsoe; 1880, F. J. McMillan; 1893,
W. C. Fields; 1899, W. C. Fields; 1906, Stephen A. Taylor;
1909, R. L. Doughton; 1911, John M. Wagoner.
Representatives: 1869, Dr. J. L. Smith; 1871, Robert Gam-
bill; 1873, Abram Bryan; 1875, W. C. Fields; 1877, E. L.
Vaughan; 1879 and 1881, E. L. Vaughan; 1883, Isaac W.
Landreth; 1885, Berry Edwards; 1887, R. A. Doughton; 1891,
R. A. Doughton; 1893, C. J. Taylor; 1895, P. C. Higgins;
1897, H. F. Jones, 1899; J. M. Gambill; 1901, J. C. Fields;
1903, R. A. Doughton; 1905, R. K. Finney; 1907, 1909, 1911,
1913, R. A. Doughton.
Clerk of County Court: 1859 to 1862, Allen Gentry; 1862
to 1866, Horton Reeves; 1866 to 1868, C. G. Fowlkes.
Clerk Superior Court: 1864 to 1868, Wm. A. J. Fowlkes;
1868 to October, 1873, B. H. Edwards. Edwards resigned
and J. J. Gambill appointed. October 1873 to March 1882,
J. J. Gambill; Gambill resigned and R. S. Carson appointed.
March 1882 to 1890, R. S. Carson; 1890 to 1898, W. E. Cox;
1898 to 1910, J. N. Edwards; 1910 to 1914, S. F. Thompson.
Sheriff: 1859 to 1864, Jesse Bledsoe; 1864 to 1870, J. C.
Jones; 1870 to 1882, J. R. Wyatt; 1882 to 1884, Berry Edwards;

COUNTY HISTORY 199
1884 to 1885, George Bledsoe (died while in office) ; 1885 to
1888, W. F. Thompson; 1888 to 1894, W. S. Gambill; 1894 to
1898, L. J. Jones; 1898 to 1904, D. R. Edwards; 1904 to 1908,
S. A. Choate; 1908 to 1910, John R. Edwards; 1910 to 1914,
S. C. Richardson.
Register of Deeds: 1865 to 1868, Thompson Edwards; 1868
to 1880, F. M. Mitchell; 1880 to 1882, F. G. McMillan; 1882
to 1886, F. M. Mitchell; 1886 to 1892, J. C. Roup; 1892 to
1898, J. N. Edwards; 1898 to 1904, S. F. Thompson; 1904 to
1908, John F. Cox; 1908 to 1914, G. D. Brown.
The following is a list of the first Justices of the Peace of
the county:
¦ A. B. McMillan, John Gambill, Berry Edwards, John A.
Jones, Solomon Jones, W. P. Maxwell, Solomon Long, Nathan
Weaver, Wm. Warden, C. G. Fowlkes, F. J. McMillan, John
Parsons, Caleb Osborn, Wm. L. Mitchell, C. H. Doughton,
James Boyer, Wm. Anders, Thomas Edwards, Thomas Doug
lass, I. C. Heggins, Hiram Heggins, Morgan Bryan, A. M.
Bryan, A. J. Woodruff, Alfred Brooks, Wm. T. Choate, Dan
iel Whitehead, Goldman Heggins, Absalom Smith, Martin
Carico, Ruben Sparks, Spencer Isom, Chesley Cheek.
Of this number, Dr. C. G. Fowlkes and Nathan Weaver
are the only ones now living, 1912.
First Marriage Certificate. This is a copy of the first
marriage record in the county:
"This is to certify that I married Calvin Caudill and
Sarah Jones the 16th day of March, 1862. Daniel Caudill."
Two Noted Lawsuits. What is probably the most im
portant lawsuit that ever existed in the county was W. D.
Maxwell v. Noah Long, for the recovery of the "Peach Bottom
Copper Mines" and for about 1000 acres of land. This cause
was carried to the United States Circuit Court of Appeals and
then to the United States Supreme Court. Polk, Fields,
Doughton, Watson & Buxton represented Maxwell, Vaughan,
Linney, and Judge Schenk represented Long. Maxwell finally
gained the suit, Chief Justice Fuller writing the opinion.
Another historical lawsuit in this county, was one of eject
ment, Wm. Edwards v. Morgan Edwards. This litigation was
begun about the year 1864, and lasted nearly thirteen years.
The action was moved to Ashe county at one time, and prob-

200 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
ably to Watauga at another. It was finally disposed of at
Spring term 1877 of Alleghany Superior Court. After a des
perate battle, which lasted for nearly a week, the jury gave
a verdict in favor of Morgan Edwards. 3 6
Mitchell's County Seat. By ch. 8, Pub. Laws of 1860-61
Mitchell county was created out of portions of Yancey,
Watauga, Caldwell, Burke and McDowell; and by chapter 9
of the same laws it was provided that the county court of
Pleas and Quarter Sessions should be "held in the house of
Eben Childs on the tenth Monday after the fourth Monday
in March, when they shall elect a clerk, a sheriff, a coroner,
a register of deeds and entry-taker, a surveyor, a county
solicitor, constables and all other officers. Thomas Farthing
of Watauga, John W. McElroy of Yancey, Joseph Conley of
McDowell, A. C. Avery of Burke, David Prophet of Yancey,
John Harden of Watauga and James Bailey, Sr., of Yancey,
were appointed commissioners to select a permanent seat of
justice and secure fifty acres of land, to meet between the
first of May and June, 1861. Tilmon Blalock, J. A. Person,
Eben Childs and Jordan Harden were appointed commis
sioners to lay off town lots; "and said town shall be called
by the name of Calhoun."
A Hitch Somewhere. But, at the first extra session of
1861 (Ratified September 4, 1861), Moses Young, John B.
Palmer of Mitchell, John S. Brown of McDowell, Wm. C.
Erwin of Burke, and N. W. Woodfin of Buncombe were
appointed commissioners to "select and determine a perma
nent seat of justice," to meet between October 1, 1861, and
July 1, 1862.
Still Another Hitch. By chapter 34, Private Laws, second
extra session, 1861, the boundary lines of Mitchell were so
changed as to detach from Mitchell and re-annex to Yancey
all the country between the mouth of Big Rock creek and the
Tennessee line, so that the county line of Mitchell should
stop on Toe river at the mouth of Big Rock creek and run
thence with the ridge that divides Rock Creek and Brum-
metts creek to the State line at the point where the Yancey
and McDowell turnpike road crosses the same.
The Land is Donated. On the 17th of October, 1861,
Lysander D. Childs and Eben Childs conveyed to Tilmon
Blalock, chairman of the County Court, fifty acres of land

COUNTY HISTORY 201
(Deed Book C, p. 30) the which fifty acres were to be used
"for the location thereon of a permanent seat of justice in
said county; two acres for a public grave-yard, one acre for
the site of a public school building, and one-half acre to be
devoted to each of the following denominations for the erec
tion thereon of church buildings; to wit: Episcopalians, Pres
byterians, Methodists and Baptists"; the location of lots in
the grave-yard and for the school and church buildings to be
made by the commissioners charged by law with the duty
of laying off the town lots in said seat of justice.
Calhoun. This town was not far from Spruce Pine and
Ingalls, "on a lane leading from the Burnsville and Boone
road."37 It was what was afterwards called Childsville. But,
although by chapter 61 of the second session of the laws of 1861,
a term of the Superior court was directed to be held "for
Mitchell county in the town of Calhoun on the sixth Monday
after the fourth Monday each year," the county seat never
assumed town-like proportions. The people never liked it;
and at the first session of the legislature after the Civil War it
was changed to the present site of what is now called Bakers
ville. But, it seems, it was first called Davis; for by chapter
2, Private Laws of 1868, the name of the "town site of
Mitchell county" was changed from Davis to Bakersville.
Bakersville. On the 27th of July, 1866, for $1,000 Rob-
bert N. Penland conveyed to the chairman of the board of
county commissioners 29 acres on the waters of Cane creek
"and the right of way to and the use of the springs above the
old Baker spring . . . to be carried in pumps to any
portion of said 29 acres. 3 8 This was a part of the land on
which Bakersville is situated. In 1868 there was a sale of
these lots, and at the December, 1868, session of the commis
sioners the purchasers gave their notes, due in one and two
years for balances due on the lots. The first court house in
Bakersville was built by Irby & Dellinger, of South Carolina,
in 1867, and on the first of November, 1869, M. P. and W.
Dellinger gave notice of a mechanic's lien in the building for
work done under a contract for the sum of $1,409.85 subject
to a set-off of about $200. The first court held in Bakersville
was in a grove near the former Bowman house, when it stood
on the top of the ridge above its present site. Judge A. S.
Merrimon presided. The next court was held in a log house

202 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
built by Isaac A. Pearson. The present court house was built
by the Fall City Construction Company, of Louisville, Ky.
Transylvania.39 This county was formed in 1861, while
Marcus Erwin was in the senate and Joseph P. Jordan of
Henderson county was in the house. M. N. Patton was its
first representative, in 1864. Court was held in a store room
on what is now Caldwell street, Brevard. The first regular
court house was a small frame building which stood on site
of present building. It was built by George Clayton and
Eph. England, contractors, and was not quite complete in
1866. The first jail was also small and of wood. Both these
buildings were moved across the street and are still in exist
ence. The present court house was built about 1874 by
Thomas Davis contractor. Probit Poore built what is still
known as the "Red House," before the Civil War; but it was
not used as a hotel till William Moore opened it as such, and
this was the first hotel in Brevard. In 1872 or 1873 Nathan
McMinn built a store and afterwards a hotel where the present
McMinn house stands and opened a hotel there about 1879.
George Shuford, the father of Judge G. A. Shuford, used to
own the Breese or Hume place in Brevard, and sold it to
Meredith D. Cooper who built the present mansion, and sold
it to Mrs. Hume. George Shuford bought the mill place
from Ethan Davis and built a grist mill there, but when M. D.
Cooper got it he built a flour mill, which was burned. Cooper
afterwards sold the mill to Mr. Lucas and he sold it to Mrs.
Robert L. Hume, who conveyed it to her daughter, Mrs.
Wm. E. Breese, the mill having been rebuilt. About 1800
George Shuford moved from Catawba county and bought
land below Shuford's bridge on the French Broad river, and
took up a lot of mountain land, considered valueless, but
which is held today by John Thrash at $25 per acre. It
is in the Little river mountains. John Clayton, father of
John, George and Ephriam Clayton, settled on Davidson's
river, above the mill, at the Joel Mackey place. The Gash
family were originally from Buncombe. Leander S. Gash
lived for a time in Hendersonville where he died. He was a
prominent and influential man, having represented Henderson
county in 1866 in the senate; while Thomas L. Gash repre
sented Transylvania in the house in 1874. Their ancestor
had fought in the Revolutionary War. The Duckworths are

COUNTY HISTORY 203
another large and influential family, John having settled at
the mouth of Cherryfield creek on a part of the David Allison
grant, which corners there, after following the present turn
pike from Boylston creek. It was here, too, that the Pax-
tons lived. Just prior to the Civil War, while Transylvania
was a part of Henderson county, many wealthy and fashion
able people from the lower part of South Caroliua bought
many of the finest farms and built what were palatial homes
for those days. Among them were Frank McKune and
William Johnston from Georgetown, S. C. Their fine teams
and liveried servants are still remembered. Then, too, Rob
ert Hume built a stone hotel at the foot of the Dunn Rock,
about four miles southwest of Brevard, where he kept many
summer boarders prior to the Civil War; but, during that
awful time, the hotel was burned; the ruins still standing.
What is still known as the Lowndes Farm, on the French
Broad river, about five miles below Brevard, originally be
longed to Benjamin King, a Baptist minister, who married
Miss Mary Ann Shuford; but when the Cherokee country was
opened to the whites, Mr. King sold it to William Ward, a
son of Joshua Ward. William Ward built the fine house which
stands on the land still; his father having built Rock Hall, the
present home of the Westons. Ephriam Clayton was the
contractor who built the Lowndes house for William Ward,
and it was then one of the show-places of Transylvania. The
Wards were South Carolina rice planters, and quite wealthy;
but during the Civil War William got into debt to Mr. Lowndes,
a banker of Charleston, who obtained judgments and sold
the land after the war, bidding it in, and afterwards plac
ing the farm in charge of a Scotch gardner named Thomas
Wood, who immediately put the land in splendid condition —
the amount spent for the land and improvements having cost
the estate nearly one hundred thousand dollars. Mr. Lowndes
was very much attached to this place and spent much of
his time there; but after his death, his grandson did not care
much for it, and sold it, with stock and farm implements for
a small sum to John Thrash, and he in time sold it to Col.
Everett, a genial and popular gentleman of Cleveland,
Ohio. He has improved the place greatly. The original
farm now includes the James Clayton, the Wm. Allison and
the Henry Osborne places — all fine farms. The late A. Toomer

204 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Porter, of Charleston, started to build a home on top of a
small mountain, three and one half miles down the French
Broad river, and a Mr. Clarkson of South Carolina started
a summer residence on the opposite side, but the war stopped
both enterprises. A relative of the late P. T. Barnum, owns
the Hankel place about three miles from Brevard on the
French Broad river. He has an extensive chicken farm,
containing 5,000 white Leghorns. His name is Clark. Buck
Forest, nine miles south of Brevard on Little river, containing
the shoals and three picturesque falls or cascades of that stream,
graphically described the "Land of the Sky," was originally
the property of Micajah Thomas, who after building a hotel
there before the Civil War, kept summer boarders when deer
hunting was popular; but after the war sold it to Joseph Car
son. The late Frank Coxe, Carson's brother-in-law, how
ever, paid for it, and in the litigation which followed retained
the title and possession by paying Carson's estate about
$12,000 in 1910. The Coxe estate have since bought large
tracts of land in that neighborhood and it is said will create
a large lake and build a hotel on the property. The Patton
family of Transylvania is one of the largest and most influential
of that section, the original of that name having owned from
Clayton's to the Deaver farm, a distance along the French
Broad river of about three miles. They were a large family,
but there was land enough to go around to about a dozen-
children. No better people live anywhere than the Pattons.
Cherry Field. In November, 1787, Gen. Charles McDow
ell and Willoughby Williams entered 200 acres in Ruther
ford county (Buncombe county Deed Book A, p. 533), "ad
joining the upper end of his Cherry Field survey on French
Broad river and extending up to his Meadow Camp survey";
and in November, 1789, the State granted to Charles McDow
ell 500 acres on both sides of the French Broad river, includ
ing the forks of said river where the Path crosses to Estatoe
(Deed Book No. 9, p. 200, Buncombe). This old Indian path
to Estatoe crossed near Rosman.
Ben Davidson's Creek.40 On the 25th of July, 1788,
Charles McDowell entered 500 acres in Rutherford county on
Ben Davidson's river, including the Great Caney Cove two or
three miles above the Indian Path, though the grant was not

COUNTY HISTORY 205
issued till December 5, 1798 (Buncombe county Deed Book 4,
p. 531), and in November, 1790, Ben Davidson got a grant
for 640 acres in Rutherford county on both sides of French
Broad river, above James Davidson's tract, including the
mouth of the Fork on the north side and adjoining Joseph
McDowell's line, "since transferred to Charles McDowell."
(Buncombe county Deed Book 1, p. 74.)
Clay County and Hayesville. Clay county was enacted
in 1861, but it was organized in 1864. The first sheriff was
John Patterson, but he could not give the necessary bond and
the commissioners appointed J. P. Chastine in his place.
Then came James P. Cherry who was sheriff for many years.
Wm. McConnell was the first register of deeds. John C.
Moore, G. W. Bristol and Harvey Penland were the first
County Commissioners. The county seat was named for
George W. Hayes. He lived on Valley river near Murphy
and was the father of Mr. Ham Hayes, who is still living.
He was an extraordinary man and much respected. He had
Clay county cut off from Cherokee while he was in the legis
lature. John H. Johnson of Tennessee, Robert Martin of Wilkes
county, North Carolina, and Elijah Herbert of Wythe county,
Virginia, married three daughters of John Alexander, of Ab-
shers, Wilkes county, North Carolina, about 1823, and after
wards moved to Clay, then Cherokee county, when the Chero
kee lands were sold. They settled near Hayesville. Elijah
Herbert, who had married Winifred Alexander, died in March,
1875, aged seventy-four years. John H. Johnson died about
1895. Robert Martin died about 1880.
Clay county lands are exceedingly fertile and, with the
sparkling Hiwassee river flowing through the center from east
to west, with its tributaries, Tusquittee, Brasstown, Sweet
water, Shooting Creek and various other smaller streams and
hundreds of clear, sparkling springs, make it a well watered
country. It is surrounded on three sides by mountains form
ing an amphitheatre overlooking a valley that is unexcelled for
natural beauty. Its soil is adapted to the production of all
the grains and grasses but more especially to the growth of
apples. This county has long been noted for the morality of
its people and the maintenance of a high school at Hayes-

206 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
viUe, the county seat, the courts seldom last longer than two
days, and often only one day, and the jail is almost always
free of prisoners.
This county was settled largely by emigrants from the
counties east of it. The Cherokee Indians were removed from
this particular territory in the year 1838, but a number of
pioneers had settled in the county prior to their removal. G.
W- Hayes was the representative in the legislature from Cher
okee at that time and the county seat was named in his honor.
The minerals of the county are gold, corundum, asbestos, gar
net, mica, kaolin, and iron.
George W. Bristol came from Burke county in the spring of
1844 and settled at the Mission Farm on Peachtree creek. The
Bristols came to Burke from Connecticut. His son, Thomas
B. Bristol, was born in Burke county July 3, 1830, and mar
ried Mary Addie Johnson, a daughter of the late John H.
Johnson of Tusquittee, January 22, 1852. He died January
19, 1907. His widow survived him till October 8, 1911.
Archibald 0. Lyon was born in Tennessee and married Miss
M. E. Martin September 14, 1856. She was a daughter of
Robert Martin, one of the first and most prominent settlers
of Clay county. A. 0. Lyon died February 16, 1885. He
went to Raleigh soon after the Civil War and obtained a char
ter for a Masonic lodge at Hayesville, which was organized
as Clay Lodge October 2, 1866. He was its Worshipful Mas
ter ten years and a faithful member for nineteen years. He
was a progressive and successful farmer, and was loved and
respected by all who knew him. James H. Penland also mar
ried one of John H. Johnson's daughters, Miss Fanny E.
Johnson, as did H. G. Trotter of Franklin and Wm. B. Tid-
well of Tusquittee two others.
John C. Moore was one of the first settlers of Clay county
and lived in an Indian hut which stood near a beech tree near
John H. Johnson's house before the land sale. He came from
Rutherford county and married Polly Bryson of Mills river.
Their daughter, Sarah, married Wm. H. Herbert about the
year 1851.
W. P. Moore, universally called "Irish Bill," was a son of
Joab Moore and was born in Rutherford county and was a
brother of John C. Moore. He married Miss Hattie Gash of
Transylvania county. He was a captain in the Confederate

COUNTY HISTORY 207
army and "every inch a soldier." He is still living at his
home on Tusquittee, aged eighty-three years.
Alexander Barnard settled on Hiwassee river, three miles
above Hayesville. Eli Sanderson was born in Connecticut
and was the father of George W. Sanderson who died some
years ago. He and William Sanderson were among the first
settlers of Clay county. James Coleman was also among
the first settlers and owned a large farm. William Hancock
lived below Hayesville and Richard Pass came early from
Georgia to Clay county. One of his daughters married S. H.
Haigler of Hayesville.
Joshua Harshaw was the original settler at the mouth of
Brasstown creek on a good farm. He came early from Burke
county. Abner Chastine came from Jackson county early
and died about 1874 or 1875, when an old man. He left sev
eral children, among them having been J. P. Chastine the
first sheriff of Clay county. Byron Brown married Miss
Nancy Parsons and died about 1901. Daniel K. Moore, of
Buncombe county, also lived on Brasstown. He married a
Miss Dickey and was the father of Judge Frederick Moore.
He is still living. Henry Piatt, the father of the present
Rev. J. T. Piatt of Clay, was also an early settler, and died
many years ago.
George McLure came from Macon county long before the
Civil War and settled near Hiwassee river. He was the father
of W. H. McLure who has represented Clay county in the
legislature. W. H. McLure married one of the daughters of
R. S. Pass and was one of the California Forty-Niners. He
stayed in California till the Civil War, when he returned to
Clay county.
The Mission farm is now partly owned by the heirs of a
Mr. Sudderth, originally of Burke county. He was at one
time sheriff of Clay and a gentleman of fine character. Fort
Embree, one of the collecting forts at time of the removal
of the Cherokees, was on a hill just one mile southwest of
Hayesville. There is an Indian Mound at the mouth of
Peachtree creek on the old Robert McLure farm. It is about
the same size as that near Franklin. There is also a mound
half a mile east of Hayesville which is highest of all these
mounds. It is on the land of W. H. McLure and S. H. Alli
son, their line splitting the mound.

208 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Among other prominent citizens of Clay should be men
tioned Dr. D. W. Killian, Dr. John Duncan, Gailor Bristol
and S. H. Allison's father, who came to Clay many years ago.
S. H. Allison married Miss Elizabeth Lyon, daughter of A. 0.
Lyon. John 0. Hicks was born in Rutherford county and
was among the first school teachers in Clay county. He
built up a splendid school at Fort Embree and afterwards
moved to Hayesville. He represented Clay in the legislature.
He closed his school in 1876 and moved to Walhalla, South
Carolina, and then went to Texas, where he died in 1910.
There is now a fine high school at Hayesville. It is in
charge of Mr. N. A. Fessenden, who succeeded John 0. Hicks.
Among those who have distinguished themselves after attend
ing this school are Rev. Ferd. C. McConnell, of Texas, one of the
finest preachers of the Baptist church; George Truett, another
fine preacher; and Hon. George Bell of the Tenth Georgia
Congressional district.
Swain County and Bryson City. The county was cre
ated in 1871. The first court house was a frame building,
with the upper floor for a court room and the lower for a jail.
The "cage" was a pen of logs, under the front outside stairs,
and was used for misdemeanants only. The dungeon was a
log room within a log room, the space between being filled
with stones. A padlocked trapdoor from the floor above was
the only entrance, reached by a ladder let down when required.
Bryson City was first called Charleston, which name it retained
sixteen years when it was called Bryson in honor of Col. Thad.
Dillard Bryson who was instrumental in having the new county
formed. Col. D. K. Collins built the first house there, Capt.
Epp Everett the next, and James Raby and M. Battle fol
lowed. H. J. Beck was first clerk of court, Epp Everett sher-
riff, D. K. Collins postmaster, and Wm. Enloe, B. McHane,
and John DeHart county commissioners.
Oconalufty. The first settlers on this creek were Robert
Collins, Isaac Bradley, John Beck, John Mingus, Abraham
Enloe, after whom came the Hugheses, Connors, Floyds, Sher-
rills, etc. Col. D. K. Collins' mother had thirteen children, of
whom twelve lived to be grown. Seven of her sons took part
in the Civil War, one being killed. Their neighbor had eighteen
children. The earliest settlers on Deep creek were the Shulers,
Wiggins, and Millsaps. Those on Alarka were the Cochrans,
Brendels, Welches, and DeHarts.

COUNTY HISTORY 209
Robert Collins. He was the guide and assistant of Pro
fessor Arnold Guyot's surveying party in 1858-59, and Col.
D. K. Collins was along as a helper, to carry the instruments,
chain, stakes, etc. They followed the summit of the Smoky
mountains from Cocke county, Tenn., to Blount county, Tenn.,
breaking up the party at Montvale springs, 16 miles from
MaryviUe. Robert Collins was born on Oconalufty river
September 4, 1806, married Elizabeth Beck, December 30,
1830, and died April 9, 1863, when he was an officer in charge
of 500 troops, mostly Cherokees, in Sevier county, Tenn.
Eli Arrington. He helped to carry Rhynehart, who was ill
of milk-sick in 1855, near Collins gap. Wain Battle was also one
of the party who helped carry Rhynehart from the mountains.
About two years later he was with Dr. John Mingus, Dr. Davis
and a few others going to the Alum cave where Col. Thomas got
magnesia and alum during the war, and took sick and died
alone in one of the roughest countries in the mountains. He
was found by Col. D. K. Collins and taken to his home in
Waynesville. Danger in Crossing the Unakas in Winter. Andrew
Sherman and  O'Neal, two lumbermen, left camp on
the head of Tellico creek just before Christmas, 1899, intend
ing to cross the Unaka mountains south of the John Stratton
Meadows, near Haw Knob, so as to reach Robbinsville in time
for Christmas. They got as far as the Whig cabin where they
bought some whiskey from Jim Brooksher; after which they
started to cross the Hooper bald. A blizzard and heavy
snowstorm began and continued all that night. They were
never seen again alive. In September following Forest Den
ton found their skeletons near the Huckleberry Knob, where
Sherman's remains were buried; but some physicians took
O'Neal's remains home with them.
Origin of Names. Hazel creek was named from a patch
of hazelnut bushes near its mouth; Noland creek was named
for Andrew Noland, its first settler; Chambers creek for John
Chambers; Eagle creek from a nest of eagles near its head;
Twenty-Mile creek is so called because it is just twenty miles
from the junction of Tuckaseegee and Little Tennessee rivers.
William Monteith. He was the father of Samuel and the
grandfather of Ellis, John, Robert and Western Monteith. He
married Nancy Crawford.
W. N.C.— 14

210 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Col. Thaddeus Dillard Bryson. He was born near the
present railroad station called Beta, Jackson county, February
13, 1829, was married to Miss Mary C. Greenlee of Turkey
Cove, McDowell county, April 4, 1871. He died at his home
at Bryson City, January 2, 1890. He represented Jackson
and Swain a number of years in the legislature. He was ap
pointed colonel-commandant of the Jackson county regiment
militia, February 20, 1854, and was commissioned captain in
the 20th N. C. Infantry of the Confederate army, September
7, 1861.
Bryson City has one bank, three hotels, several boarding
houses, a pump factory where columns and liquor logs are
made, a roller mill of 35-barrel capacity, an ice plant, bottling
works, a telephone system, a planing mill, lumber yards and
builder's supplies, livery stables and a fine retail and whole
sale trade with the surrounding country. The town owns its
own water system and watershed at Rich gap of 200 acres.
The water is from mountain springs and is piped to a fine
reservoir on Arlington Heights overlooking the town. There
is also a sewerage system. The town owns its own water
power plant three miles up Deep Creek which furnishes elec
tricity to operate the ice plant and the roller mill and the
electric lights of the town, and has surplus power to sell. It
has 140-horsepower capacity.
Graham and Robbinsville. Graham was formed in 1872,
but it was represented in the legislature by the member from
Cherokee till 1883, when George B. Walker, Esq., was elected
to the house. The county commissioners-elect met at King
& Cooper's store on Cheoah river, October 21, 1872, and were
sworn in by J. W. King, J. P. ; J. J. Colvard, John Gholey, G.
W. Hooper, N. F. Cooper, and John Sawyer, commissioners,
all being present. J. J. Colvard was elected chairman, and
the official bond of William Carpenter, register deeds, was
approved. So were also the bonds of John G. Tatham, as
clerk, J. S. Hyde, as sheriff, Reuben Carver, surveyor, all of
whom were sworn in. It was then ordered that the first term
of the Superior court be held at the Baptist church in Cheoah
township, about one mile from Robbinsville. Judge Riley
Cannon held this court at that place in March, 1873; and the
first court held in the court house in Robbinsville was the fall
term of 1874. On the 7th of December, 1872, the commission-

COUNTY HISTORY 211
ers considered three sites for the county seat : Rhea Hill, Fort
Hill, and land of C. A. Colvards. They chose the first
named. Junaluska, the Cherokee chief, lived at Robbinsville
and is buried there. A tablet on an immense boulder marks
his grave. Snowbird mountains, the Joanna Bald, the
Hooper Bald, Huckleberry Knob, Laurel Top, the two Stratton
Balds, the Hang Over, the Hay O, the Fodder Stack and the
Swim Bald are the principal mountain peaks. They are the
least known of any of our mountains. In them head the
Santeetla, Buffalo, Snowbird, Sweet Water, the Yellow and
Tallulah creeks, all of which flow into the Cheoah river. One
hundred and fifty Cherokee Indians live on the head of Snowbird
and Buffalo creeks. There is more virgin forest land in this
county than in any other now. It has immense resources in water
power, and the gorge at Rocky Point where the Little Tennessee
goes through has great value as a power site. The Union Devel
opment Company has bought up many sites on these streams.
In 1910-11 the Whiting Manufacturing Company bought up
many of the lots and houses in Robbinsville and many thousands
of acres of timber lands. Lafayette Ghormley is the grandson
of the man of that name who lived near the mouth of Mountain
creek, and the son of DeWitt Ghormley. Dave Orr went to
his present home between Bear and Slick Rock creeks in 1866,
and his fame as a hunter and trapper is now secure. Rev.
Joseph A. Wiggins, a distinguished Methodist minister of this
county, was born on Alarka creek in 1832, but moved with his
father to Graham in 1840, when there was but one wagon
road, that from Old Valley Town to Fort Montgomery, just
constructed for the soldiers who removed the Indians in 1838.
Dr. Dan F. Summey of Asheville was in charge of its con
struction. There were no mills except a few grist mills, and
wheat was "packed" on horses by a trail to a mill five mile
from what is now Bryson City — a distance of about thirty
miles. Indian relics were then plentiful at the head of Tallu
lah creek at what is called The Meadows. Mr. Wiggins mar
ried a daughter of George W. Hayes, after whom Hayesville
was named. There was not a church in the county and but
a few log school houses. He began to preach in 1859, and
served four years as chaplain in the Confederate army, after
which he rode circuits in Tennessee, Southwestern Virginia
and Western North Carolina till stationed in Graham county

212 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
His great-grandfather Garland Wiggins served in the Revolu
tionary War, as did his wife's great-grandfather, Edward
Hayes. Andrew Colvard lived on Long Hungry branch, which
got its name from the fact that a party of hunters was once
detained there by high water till their rations gave out and
they were for a long time hungry. The Stewarts of San
teetla came from Georgia and the Lovens from Ducktown,
Tenn. John and Robert Stratton came from Monroe county,
Tenn., in the thirties and settled on the Unaka mountains
between the head of Sassafras ridge and Santeetla creek.
John lived on the John Stratton Bald ten years and caught
19 panthers on Laurel Top, making "bacon" of their hams
and shoulders. He came with nothing but his rifle, blanket,
skillet and ammunition, but made enough herding cattle and
selling deer and bear hams and hides, etc., to buy a fine farm
in Monroe county, Tenn. On a rude stone on the John Strat
ton meadow is carved: A. S.
Was born
1787
Died 1839.
A State Line stone stands about a quarter of a mile away.
John Ropetwister, Organdizer, Big Fat Commisseen and others
moved from East Buffalo creek to Slick Rock during the
Removal of 1838, where they remained in concealment till
Col. Thomas arranged to have the remnant remain. They
sent their women into Tennessee to swap bear and deer hides
for meal. Thomas Cooper, the father of James W. Cooper
of Murphy, lived on Tallulah three miles east of Robbinsville.
There was a large and influential family of Crisps who settled
on Stekoah, of whom Hon. Joel L. Crisp is a distinguished
representative. Rev. Isaac Carringer came from the eastern
part of this State and lived on Santeetla. He was a Baptist
minister and died about 1897, highly respected. John Den
ton the most picturesque mountaineer in this section, moved
from Polk county, Tenn., to Little Santeetla in 1879. In
1900 he was crippled while logging. He stands six feet three
in his stockings. Soon after his arrival some of the bullies
of Robbinsville tested John's pluck; but he worsted five of
them in a fist fight, and since then he has lived in peace. His,
wife's mother was Jane Meroney, and a first cousin of Jeffer-

COUNTY HISTORY 213

son Davis. She married a Turner, Mrs. Denton's given name
being Albertine.
Avery County. This was created in 1911, out of portions
of Watauga and Mitchell counties, principally. 4 * At an
election held August 1, 1911, Old Fields of Toe was selected
as the county seat. It so happened that this land had been
granted to Col. WaightstiU Avery November 9, 1783. It was
in his honor that this, the 100th county, was named, while
the county seat was called Newland, in honor of Hon. W. C.
Newland, of Lenoir, then the lieutenant governor of the State.
The jail and court house were completed sufficiently to allow
court to be held in April, 1913, Judge Daniels presiding. There
are two legends concerning the reason this tract was called
the Old Fields of Toe. L. D. Lowe, Esq., in the Watauga
Democrat of June 19, 1913, states that one legend relates that
Estatoe, the daughter of one of two rival chieftains, fell in love
with the son of the other; but her father refused his consent,
which caused a bloody war between the two factions. But
Estatoe caused a pipe of peace to be made with two stems
of ti-ti so that two could smoke it at once. The two rival
chiefs assembled their respective followers on the bank of the
river, and smoked till peace was concluded and Estatoe mar
ried her lover. The other legend is that found in The Balsam
Groves of the Grandfather mountain (p. 221), and in it Esta
toe is made to drown herself because she could not wed her
Indian lover because of her father's implacable opposition.
Avery County's Long Pedigree. "It was a part of
Clarendon in 1729; of New Hanover in 1729; of Bladen in 1734;
of Anson in 1749; of Rowan in 1753; of Surry in 1770; of Burke
in 1777; of Wilkes in 1777; of Ashe in 1799; of Yancey in 1833;
of Caldwell in 1841; of Watauga in 1849; of Mitchell in 1861;
so that that portion taken from Caldwell and attached to
Avery in 1911 represents the eighth subdivision; and that
from Watauga the tenth; which is a record probably unsur
passed."42 The principal reason for the formation of this
new county was the inaccessibility of Bakersville to most of the
inhabitants of Mitchell, it being in the northeastern part of
that county and only two and a half miles from the Yancey
line. 4 3 Lineville City, two miles from Montezuma and Pinola,
is "the cleanest town in the North Carolina mountains east
of Asheville, and the only place of the kind where guests

214 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
have a large, ideal zone for golf." 44 The same author speaks
of the Yonahlossee road, running from Linville City to Blow
ing Rock, as the Appian Way which ran from Rome via Naples,
to Brundesium, and claims that the latter was not more inter
esting than the former. 4 6 The world will one day admit that
the fine scenery of North Carolina has its culmination in
Avery county.

1From Asheville's Centenary.
2Ibid. 3Ibid.
<Ibid.'Ibid."Bourne's Asheville Code, 1909, vi. Scaife v. Land Co., 90 Federal Reporter (p. 238.)
The deed from Tate to Morris is on parchment nearly fifteen feet in length. It was written
by an English law clerk, and still looks like copperplate. At page 165 of the Colonial Rec
ords is found a letter from Robert Morris to the governor of North Carolina in refernece to
a settlement of the account between this state and the United_ States, in which he refers to
the proposed arbitration in which this State proposed to appoint one arbitrator and retain
power of objecting to the other!
*Pronounced Cochay. He was a Frenchman who had been brought to the Sulphur
Springs by Col. Reuben Deaver as a confectionery and pastery cook.
'Will Book B, p. 103, September 23, 1844.
sDr. A. B. Cox's "Footprints on the Sands of Time," p. 107.
"Record Book Superior Court, not paged.
"Ibid.
"From information furnished by Hon. A. H. Eller, 1912.
"Ibid. "Ibid."Ibid.
"Ibid.
"Allen. "Col. Allen T. Davidson, in The Lyceum, January, 1891.
"Ibid."Ibid.
2 Nineteenth Annual Report of Bureau of Ethnology, p. 43.
"Vol. II, Rev. St., 1837, p. 195.
""A Brief History of Macon County," by Rev. C. D. Smith Franklin, 1905. "The
organization of the county took place nine years after the survey of the lands and the loea-
ion of the site for the town of Franklin."
"Ibid.
"Much of the information about the citizens of Franklin and Macon was furnished by
Henry G. Robertson, Esq.
"In 1852 he represented Macon in the House of Commons.
"Henry G. Robertson, Esq., to J. P. A., 1912.
2 'Ibid.
2 'Connor.
"Written for this history by Mrs. Mattie S. Candler of Hendersonville.
3 Zeigler & Grosscup.
32The county seat was named in honor of Judge Archibald D. Murphey, who was
elected to the Superior court bench in 1818 and resigned in 1819. He spelt his name, how
ever with an "e".
"Deed Book G, p. 139, et seq.
34Madison county records.
"See ante, page 7.
"Facts as to Alleghany county furnished by Hon. S. F. Thompson.
"Deed Book C, p. 30.
"Deed Book E, p. 203.
"Facts Furnished by Hon. George A. Shuford.
40What used to be called Davidson's River settlement is now known as Pisgah Forest.
* Caldwell also contributed to this territory.
42L. D. Lowe, Esq., in Watauga Democrat, May 23, 1913.
"Ibid."Balsam Groves, 223.
4 'The same author claims that the Old Fields of Toe, now Newland, was a muster
ground before the Civil War, p. 180.

CHAPTER IX
PIONEER PREACHERS
Solitude and Religion. The isolation of the early set
tlers was conducive to religious thoughts, especially among
the uneducated ministry of that day. This is impressively
told in the following paragraph:
"There was naught in the scene to suggest to a mind familiar with
the facts an oriental landscape — naught akin to the hills of Judea.
Yet, ignorance has license. It never occurred to Teck Jepson [a local
preacher in the novel] that his biblical heroes had lived elsewhere.
He brooded upon the Bible narratives, instinct with dramatic movement,
enriched with poetic color, and localized in his robust imagination, till
he could trace Hagar's wild wanderings in the fastnesses; could show
where Jacob slept and piled his altar of stones; could distinguish the
bush, of all others on the "bald," that blazed with fire from heaven
when the angel of the Lord stood within it; . saw David, the
smiling stripling, running and holding high in his right hand the bit of
cloth cut from Saul's garments while the king had slept in a cave at the
base of Chilhowie mountain. And how was the splendid miracle of
translation discredited because Jepson beUeved that the chariot of the
Lord had rested in scarlet and purple clouds upon the towering summit
of Thunderhead that Elijah might thence ascend into heaven?"1
Early Preachers. Staunton, Lexington and Abingdon, Vir
ginia, and Jonesboro, Tenn., and Morganton, N. C, have been
largely Presbyterian from their earliest beginning. Not so,
however, Western North Carolina in which the Baptists and
Methodists got the "start" and have maintained it ever since,
notwithstanding the presence almost from the first of the Rev.
George Newton and many excellent ministers of the Presby
terian faith since his day. The progress of the Methodists
was due largely, no doubt, to the frequent visits of Bishop
Asbury. The First Methodist Bishop. "In the year 1800 Bishop
Francis Asbury began to include the French Broad valley in
his annual visits throughout the eastern part of the United
States, which extended as far west as Kentucky and Ten
nessee."2 He was so encouraged by the religious hunger he
(215)

216 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
discovered in these mountain coves that he continued his
visits till November, 1813, notwithstanding the rough fare
he no doubt frequently had to put up with. Following ex
tracts are from his "Journal":
At Warm Springs in 1800.
(Thursday, November 6, 1800.) "Crossed Nolachucky at Querton's
Ferry, and came to Major Craggs', 18 miles. I next day pursued my
journey and arrived at Warm Springs, not, however, without an ugly
accident. After we had crossed the Small and Great Paint mountain,
and had passed about thirty yards beyond the Paint Rock, my roan
horse, led by Mr. O'Haven, reeled and fell over, taking the chaise with
him; I was called back, when I beheld the poor beast and the carriage,
bottom up, lodged and wedged against a sapling, which alone prevented
them both being precipitated into the river. After a pretty heavy lift
all was righted again, and we were pleased to find there was little damage
done. Our feelings were excited more for others than ourselves. Not
far off we saw clothing spread out, part of the loading of household fur
niture of a wagon which had overset and was thrown into the stream, and
bed clothes, bedding, etc., were so wet that the poor people found it neces
sary to dry them on the spot. We passed the side fords of French Broad,
and came to Mr. Nelson's; our mountain march of twelve miles calmed
us down for this day. My company was not agreeable here — there were
too many subjects of the two great potentates of this Western World,
whisky, brandy. My mind was greatly distressed."
Curiously Contrived Rope and Pole Ferry.
"North Carolina, — Saturday 8. We started away. The cold was
severe upon the fingers. We crossed the ferry, curiously contrived with
a rope and pole, for half a mile along the banks of the river, to guide the
boat by. And O the rocks! the rocks! Coming to Laurel river, we fol
lowed the wagon ahead of us — the wagon stuck fast. Brother O'H.
mounted old Gray — the horse fell about midway, but recovered, rose,
and went safely through with his burden. We pursued our way rapidly
to Ivy creek, suffering much from heat and the roughness of the roads,
and stopped at William Hunter's."
At Thomas Foster's.
"Sabbath Day, 9. We came to Thomas Foster's, and held a small
meeting at his house. We must bid farewell to the chaise; this mode of
conveyance by no means suits the roads of this wilderness. We were
obliged to keep one behind the carriage with a strap to hold by, and pre
vent accidents almost continually. I have health and hard labor, and a
constant sense of the favor of God."
Blacksmith, Carpenter, Cobbler, Saddler and Hatter.
"Tobias Gibson had given notice to some of my being at Buncombe
courthouse, and the society at Killyon's, in consequence of this, made an
appointment for me on Tuesday, 11. We were strongly importuned to

PIONEER PREACHERS 217
stay, which Brother Whatcoat felt inclined to do. In the meantime we
had our horses shod by Philip Smith; this man, as is not infrequently
the case in this country, makes wagons and works at carpentry, makes
shoes for men and for horses; to which he adds, occasionally the manu
facture of saddles and hats."
Rev. George Newton at Methodist Service.
"Monday, 10. Visited Squire Swain's agreeable family. On Tues
day we attended our appointment. My foundation for a sermon was
Heb. ii, 1. We had about eighty hearers; among them was Mr. Newton,
a Presbyterian minister, who made the concluding prayer. We took up
our journey and came to Foster's upon Swansico (Swannanoa) — company
enough, and horses in a drove of thirty-three. Here we met Francis
Poythress — sick of Carolina — and in the clouds. I, too, was sick. Next
morning we rode to Fletcher's, on Mud creek. The people being unex
pectedly gathered together, we gave them a sermon and an exhortation.
We lodged at Fletcher's."
A Lecture at Ben. Davidson's.
"Thursday, 13. We crossed French Broad at Kim's Ferry, forded
Mills river, and made upwards to the barrens of Broad to Davidson's,
whose name names the stream. The aged mother and daughter insisted
upon giving notice for a meeting; in consequence thereof Mr. Davis, the
Presbyterian minister, and several others came together. Brother What
coat was taken with a bleeding at the nose, so that necessity was laid
upon me to lecture; my subject was Luke xi, 13."
Describes the French Broad.
"Friday, 14. We took our leave of French Broad — the lands flat and
good, but rather cold. I have had an opportunity of making a tolerably
correct survey of this river. It rises in the southwest, and winds along
in many meanders, fifty miles northeast, receiving a number of tributary
streams in its course; it then inclines westward, passing through^ Bun
combe in North Carolina, and Green and Dandridge counties in Tennes
see, in which last it is augmented by the waters of Nolachucky. Four
miles above Knoxville it forms a junction with the Holston, and their
united waters flow along under the name of Tennessee, giving a name to
the State. We had no small labor in getting down Saluda mountain. ' '
Again at Warm Springs. In October, 1801, we find this
entry :
"Monday, October 5. We parted in great love. Our company made
twelve miles to Isaiah Harrison's, and next day reached the Warm Springs
upon French Broad river."
"Man and Beast 'Felt the Mighty Hills.' "
"Wednesday, 7. We made a push for Buncombe courthouse: man
and beast felt the mighty hills. I shall calculate from Baker's to this
place one hundred and twenty miles; from Philadelphia, eight hundred
and twenty miles."

218 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Resting at George Swain's.
"Friday, 9. Yesterday and today we rested at George Swain's."
Quarterly Meeting at Daniel Killon's.
"Sabbath Day, 11. Yesterday and today held quarterly meeting at
Daniel Killon's, near Buncombe courthouse. I spoke from Isa. lvii, 6, 7
and I Cor. vii, 1. We had some quickenings."
A Sermon from N. Snethen.
"Monday, 12. We came to Murroughs, upon Mud creek; here we
had a sermon from N. Snethen on Acts xiv, IS. Myself and James Dou-
that gave an exhortation. We had very warm weather and a long ride.
At Major Britain's, near the mouth of Mills river, we found a lodging."
At Elder Davidson's.
"Tuesday, 13. We came in haste up to elder Davidson's, refreshed
man and beast, commended the family to God, and then struck into the
mountains. The want of sleep and other inconveniences made me unwell.
We came down Saluda River, near Saluda Mountain : it tried my lame
feet and old feeble joints. French Broad, in its meanderings, is nearly
two hundred miles long; the line of its course is semi-circular; its waters
are pure, rapid, and its bed generally rocky, except the Blue Ridge; it
passes through all the western mountains. "
At William Nelson's at Warm Springs. Again in No
vember, 1802, we find this entry:
"Wednesday, 3. We labored over the Ridge and the Paint Moun
tain : I held on awhile, but grew afraid of this mountain, and with the
help of a pine sapling worked my way down the steepest and roughest
parts. I could bless God for life and limbs. Eighteen miles this day
contented us, and we stopped at William Nelson's, Warm Springs. About
thirty travelers having dropped in, I expounded the scriptures to them,
as found in the third chapter of Romans, as equally applicable to nominal
Christians, Indians, Jews, and Gentiles."
Dinner at Barnett's Station.
"Thursday, 4. We came off about the rising of the sun, cold enough.
There were six or seven heights to pass over, at the rate of five, two or
one mile an hour — as this ascent or descent would permit : four hours
brought us to the end of twelve miles to dinner, at Barnett's station;
whence we pushed on to John (Thomas) Foster's, and after making
twenty miles more, came in about the going down of the sun. On Friday
and Saturday we visited from house to house."
"Dear William McKendree."
"Sunday, 7. We had preaching at Killon's. William McKendree
went forward upon 'as many as are led by the Spirit of God, they are the
sons of God;' my subject was Heb. iii, 12, 13. On Monday I parted
from dear William McKendree. I made for Mr. Fletcher's, upon Mud
creek; he received me with great attention, and the kind offer of every
thing in the house necessary for the comfort of man and beast. We

PIONEER PREACHERS 219
could not be prevailed on to tarry for the night, so we set off after dinner
and he accompanied us several miles. We housed for the night at the
widow Johnson's. I was happy to find that in the space of two years,
God had manifested his goodness and his power in the hearts of many
upon the solitary banks and isolated glades of French Broad; some sub
jects of grace there were before, amongst Methodists, Presbyterians and
Baptists. On Tuesday I dined at Benjamin Davidson's, a house I had
lodged and preached at two years ago. We labored along eighteen miles,
eight ascent, on the west side, and as many on the east side of the moun
tain. The descent of Saluda exceeds all I know, from the Province of
Maine to Kentucky and Cumberland; I had dreaded it, fearing I should
not be able to walk or ride such steeps; nevertheless, with time, patience,
labor, two sticks and above all, a good Providence I came in about five
o'clock to ancient father John Douthat's, Greenville County, South Caro
lina." Again at Nelson's. On October, 1803, we meet with
this entry:
"North Carolina. On Monday, we came off in earnest; refreshed at
Isaiah Harrison's, and continued on to the Paint Mountain, passing the
gap newly made, which makes the road down to Paint Creek much bet
ter. I lodged with Mr. Nelson, who treated me like a minister, a Chris
tian and a gentleman."
Ivy Had Been Bridged in 1803.
"Tuesday, 25. We reached Buncombe. The road is greatly mended
by changing the direction, and throwing a bridge over Ivy."
Sisters Kilion and Smith Dead.
"Wednesday, 26. We called a meeting at Kilion's, and a gracious
season it was : my subject was I Cor. xv, 38. Sister Kilion and Sister
Smith, sisters in the flesh, and kindred spirits in hoUness and humble
obedience, are both gone to their reward in glory. On Thursday we
came away in haste, crossed Swamoat (Swannanoa) at T. Foster's, the
French Broad at the High (Long) Shoals, and afterwards again at Beard's
Bridge, and put up for the night at Andrew Mitchell's : In our route
we passed two large encamping places of the Methodists and Presby
terians : it made country look like the Holy Land."
He Escapes from Filth, Fleas, and Rattlesnakes.
"Friday, 28. We came up Little River, a sister stream of French
Broad : it offered some beautiful flats of land. We found a new road,
lately cut, which brought us in at the head of Little River at the old
fording place, and within hearing of the falls, a few miles off of the head
of Matthews Creek, a branch of the Saluda. The waters foaming down
the rocks with a descent of half a mile, make themselves heard at a great
distance. I walked down the mountain, after riding sixteen or eighteen
miles, before breakfast, and came in about twelve o'clock to father John
Douthat's; once more I have escaped from filth, fleas, rattlesnakes, hills,
mountains, rocks, and rivers; farewell, western world, for awhile!"

220 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
At Fletcher's on Mud Creek. Again in October, 1805,
we find the following entry:
"North Carolina. We came into North Carolina and lodged with
Wm. Nelson, at the Hot Springs. Next day we stopped with Wilson in
Buncombe. On Wednesday I breakfasted with Mr. Newton, Presby
terian minister, a man after, my own mind : we took sweet counsel to
gether. We lodged this evening at Mr. Fletcher's, Mud Creek. At
Colonel Thomas's, on Thursday, we were kindly received and hospitably
entertained."
Beds a Bench and Dirt Floor of School House. Again
in September, 1806, we find the following entry:
"Wednesday, 24. We came to Buncombe : we were lost within a
mile of Mr. Killion's (KilUan's), and were happy to get a school house to
shelter us for the night. I had no fire, but a bed wherever I could find
a bench; my aid, Moses Lawrence, had a bear skin and a dirt floor to
spread it on."
His Food Brings Back His Affliction.
"Friday, 26. My affliction returned: considering the food, the labor,
the lodging, the hardships I meet with and endure it is not wonderful.
Thanks be to God! we had a generous rain — may it be general through
the settlement!"
Camp Meeting on Turkey Creek.
"Saturday, 27. I rode twelve miles to Turkey Creek, to a kind of
camp meeting. On the Sabbath, I preached to about five hundred souls :
it was an open season and a few souls professed converting grace."
Rode Through Swanino River.
"Monday, 29. Raining. We had dry weather during the meeting.
There were eleven sermons and many exhortations. At noon it cleared
up, and gave us an opportunity of riding home : my mind enjoyed peace,
but my body felt the effect of riding. On Tuesday I went to a school
house to preach: I rode through Swanino River, and Cane and Hooper's
Creeks."
Little and Great Hunger Mountain.
"North Carolina, Wednesday, October 1. I preached at Samuel
Edney's. Next day we had to cope with Little and Great Hunger moun
tains. Now I know what Mill's Gap is, between Buncombe and Ruther
ford. One of the descents is like the roof of a house, for nearly a mile:
I rode, I walked, I sweat, I trembled, and my old knees failed; here are
gulleys and rocks, and precipices; nevertheless the way is as good as the
path over the Table Mountain — bad is the best. We came upon Green
River." Warm Springs in 1807. Again on October, 1807, we
find the following entry:
"Friday 16. We reached Wamping's (Warm Springs). I suffered
much today; but an hour's warm bath for my feet relieved me consider
ably. On Saturday we rode to Killon's."

PIONEER PREACHERS 221
George Newton, an Israelite Indeed.
"North Carolina, Sabbath, 18. At Buncombe courthouse I spoke
from 2 Kings, vii, 13-15. The people were all attention. I spent a
night under the roof of my very dear brother in Christ, George Newton,
a Presbyterian minister, an Israelite indeed. On Monday we made
Fletcher's; next day dined at Terry's, and lodged at Edwards. Saluda
ferry brought us up on Wednesday evening. "
Labored and Suffered, But Lived Near God. Again
in October, 1808, we find the following entry:
"On Tuesday we rode twenty miles to the Warm Springs, and next
day reached Buncombe, thirty-two miles. The right way to improve a
short day is to stop only to feed the horses, and let the riders meanwhile
take a bite of what they have been provident enough to put into their
pockets. It has been a serious October to me. I have labored and suf
fered; but I have lived near to God."
Mr. Irwon (Erwin), A Chief Man.
"North CaroUna, Saturday, 29. We rested for three days past. We
fell in with Jesse Richardson : He could not bear to see the fields of
Buncombe deserted by miUtiamen, who fire a shot and fly, and wheel and
fire, and run again; he is a veteran who has learned to 'endure hardness like
a good soldier of the Lord Jesus Christ.' On the Sunday I preached in
Buncombe courthouse upon I Thess. i, 7-10. I lodged with a chief man,
a Mr. Irwon. Henry Boehm went to Pigeon Creek to preach to the
Dutch." Wootenpile Asks Pay in Prayer. In October, 1909, we
find: "We crossed the French Broad and fed our horses at the gate of Mr.
Wootenpile (Hoodenpile); he would accept no pay but prayer; as I had
never called before he may have thought me too proud to stop. Our
way now lay over dreadful roads. I found old Mr. Barnett sick — the
case was a dreadful one, and I gave him a grain of tartar and a few com
posing drops, which procured him a sound sleep. The patient was very
thankful and would charge us nothing. Here are martyrs to whiskey!
I delivered my own soul. Saturday brought us to Killion's. Eight times
within nine years I have crossed these Alps. If my journal is transcribed
it will be as well to give the subject as the chapter and the verse of the
text I preached from. Nothing like a sermon can I record. Here now
am I and have been for twenty nights crowded by people, and the whole
family striving to get round me."
James Patton, Rich, Plain, Humble, Kind.
"Sabbath, 29. At Buncombe I spoke on Luke xiv, 10. It was a
season of attention and feeling. We dined with Mr. Erwin and lodged
with James Patton; how rich, how plain, how humble, and how kind!
There was a sudden change in the weather on Monday; we went as far
as D. Jay's. Tuesday, we moved in haste to Mud Creek, Green river
cove, on the other side of Saluda."

222 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
At Vater Shuck's on A Winter's Night. Again, in
December, 1810, we find the following entry:
"At Catahouche (Catalouche) I walked over a log. But O the
mountain — height after height, and five miles over! After crossing other
streams, and losing ourselves in the woods, we came in, about nine o'clock
at night, to Vater Shuck's. What an awful day! Saturday, December
1. Last night I was strongly afflicted with pain. We rode twenty-five
miles to Buncombe."
George Newton Almost A Methodist.
"North Carolina, Sabbath, December 2. Bishop McKendree and
John McGee rose at five o'clock and left us to fiU an appointment about
twenty-five miles off. Myself and Henry Boehm went to Newton's
academy, where I preached. Brother Boehm spoke after me; and Mr.
Newton, in exhortation, confirmed what was said. Had I known and
studied my congregation for a year, I could not have spoken more appro
priately to their particular cases; this I learned from those who knew
them well. We dined with Mr. Newton. He is almost a Methodist,
and reminds me of dear Whatcoat — the same placidness and solemnity.
We visited James Patton; this is, perhaps, the last visit to Buncombe."
Speaking ' ' Faithfully. ' '
"Monday. It was my province today to speak faithfully to a cer
tain person. May she feel the force of, and profit by the truth."
The Hoodenpile Road is Open. In December, 1812, we
find the following:
"Monday, 30. We stopped at Michael Bollen's on our route, where
I gave them a discourse on Luke, xi, 11-13. Why should we climb over
the desperate Spring and Paint mountain when there is such a fine new
road? We came on Tuesday a straight course to Barratt's (Barnett's),
dining in the woods on our way."
Back Again at Killion's.
" North Carolina, Wednesday, December 2. We went over the moun
tains, 22 miles, to Kiuion's."
At Samuel Edney's and Father Mills's.
"Thursday, 3. Came on through Buncombe to Samuel Edney's : I
preached in the evening. We have had plenty of rain lately. Friday, I
rest. Occupied in reading and writing. I have great communion with
God. I preached at Father Mills's. "
In Great Weakness. Again, in November, 1813, we
meet with this entry:
"Sabbath, 24. I preached in great weakness. I am at Killion's once
more. Our ride of ninety miles to Staunton bridge on Saluda river was
severely felt, and the necessity of lodging at taverns made it no better."
Valedictory to Presiding Elders.
"Friday, 29. On the peaceful banks of the Saluda I write my vale
dictory address to the presiding elders. "

PIONEER PREACHERS 223
KilUan's, so often mentioned with different spellings in the
foregoing extracts, is the present residence of Capt. I. C.
Baird on Beaverdam.3 When the General Conference of
the Methodist Episcopal Church, South, met at Asheville in
May, 1910, a gavel made of a portion of the banister of the
old Killian home was presented to the presiding bishop.
First Church in the Mountains. According to Col. W.
L. Bryan of Boone, the first church established west of the
Blue Ridge and east of the Smokies was at what is still called
"Three Forks of New river in what is now Watauga county,
a beautiful spot." It was organized November 6, 1790. The
following is from its records: "A book containing (as may be
seen) in the covenant and conduct of the Baptist church of
Jesus Christ in Wilkes county, . . . New River, Three
Forks settlement" by the following members: James Tom-
kins, Richard Greene and wife, Daniel Eggers and wife,
William Miller, Elinor Greene and B. B. Eggers. "This is
the mother of all the Baptist churches throughout this great
mountain region. From this mother church, using the lan
guage of these old pioneers, they established 'arms' of the
mother church; one at what is now known as the Globe in
Caldwell county, another to the westward, known as Ebi-
nezer, one to the northeast named South Fork . . . and
at various other points. Yet, it should be remembered that
the attendance upon the worship of the mother church extended
for many, many miles, reaching into Tennessee." After
these "arms" had been established "there was organized
Three Forks Baptist association, which bears the name to this
day, and is the oldest and most venerated religious organiza
tion known throughout the mountains. Among the first
pastors of the mother church were Rev. Mr. Barlow of Yadkin,
George McNeill of Wilkes, John G. Bryan who died in Georgia
at the age of 98, Nathaniel Vannoy of Wilkes, Richard Gentry
of Old Field, Joseph Harrison of Three Forks, Brazilla Mc
Bride and Jacob Greene of Cove creek, Reuben Farthing, A.
C. Farthing, John or Jackie Farthing, Larkin Hodges and
Rev. William Wilcox, the last named having been the last of the
Old Patriarchs of this noted church to pass away. They
were all farmers and worked in the fields for their daily bread.
To the above list should be added Rev. D. C. Harmon of Lower
Cove creek, Rev. D. C. Harmon, Rev. Smith Ferguson, who,

224 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
though they have been gone for many years, yet speak to
some of those left behind. "4
Prominent Pioneer Religious Teachers.5 Among these
were " Richard Gentry, Aaron Johnson, William Baldwin,
Richard Jacks, David Smith, all of whom were Baptists favoring
missions; and among the Methodists were James Wagg, Samuel
Plumer, A. B. Cox and Hiram and Elihu Weaver."
Rev. Humphrey Posey. Of this good man Col. Allen T.
Davidson says in The Lyceum for January, 1891, p. 11, that
James Whittaker of Cherokee "and the Rev. Humphrey
Posey established the leading (Baptist) churches in this upland
country, to wit: Cane creek, in Buncombe county, and
Locust Old Field in Haywood county, where the friends of
these two men have worshipped ever since. . . . There
they stand, monuments to the memory of these pioneers. . . .
Perhaps the most remarkable man in this up-country was
Rev. Humphrey Posey, who was born in Henry county, Va.,
January 12, 1780, was brought to Burke when only five years
old and remained there until he reached manhood, was ordained
a minister at Cane creek church in 1806. About 1820 he
established a mission school at what is now known as the
Mission Place on the Hiwassee river, seven miles above Mur
phy. He removed to Georgia in 1784, and died at Newman,
Ga., 28 December, 1846. He was a man greatly endowed by
nature to be a leader, of great physical force, with a profile
much like that of the Hon. Tom Corwin of Ohio. He had a
fine voice and manner, was singularly and simply eloquent. . . .
In fact, by nature, he was a great man, and "his works do fol
low him." The effect of his mission schools have been seen
for many years past, and many citizens of Indian blood are
left to tell the tale. The Stradley brothers of Asheville
were two other pioneer Baptist preachers of note. They had
been in the Battle of Waterloo as members of Wellington's
army before emigrating to America. Their record is known
of all men in Buncombe county, and a long line of worthy
descendants attest the sturdy character of the parent stock.
Rev. Branch Hamline Merrimon. He was born in Din-
widdie county, Va., February 22, 1802, and moved with his
parents as far as Rogersville, Tenn., on their way to the Great
West, when one member of the family becoming too ill to
travel further, they stopped there permanently. He joined

PIONEER PREACHERS 225
the Methodist Conference at Knoxville in 1824 and became
an itinerant Methodist preacher, being assigned to this sec
tion. In 1829 he married Mary E. Paxton, a daughter of
William Paxton and his wife Sarah McDowell, a sister of
Gen. Charles McDowell of Revolutionary fame. William
Paxton was born in Roxbridge county, Va., and came to
Burke county, where at Quaker Meadows he married his
wife. William Paxton and wife then moved to the Cherry
Fields in what is now Transylvania county, where they bought
and improved a large tract of fertile land, whither Mr. Mer
rimon and his wife followed. William Paxton was a brother
of Judge John Paxton of Morganton, a Superior court judge
from 1818 to 1826. He was also a near kinsman of Judge
John Hall, a member of the first Supreme court of this State.
Mr. Merrimon died at Asheville in November, 1886, leaving
seven sons and three daughters. Chief Justice A. S. Merrimon
was one of his sons, and Ex-Judge J. H. Merrimon of Asheville
is another. Rev. Mr. Merrimon was a staunch Union man
during the Civil War.
The late Rev. J. S. Burnett was another pioneer Methodist
preacher of prominence.
United They Stood. "It is a striking fact in the char
acter of this primitive people," says Col. A. T. Davidson
in The Lyceum for January 1891, "that they were entirely
devoted to each other, clannish in the extreme; and when
affliction, sorrow, trouble, vexation, or offence came to one
it came to all. It was like a bee-hive — always some one on
guard, and all affected by the attack from without. They
were the constant attendants around the bed of the sick;
suffered with the suffering, wept with those who wept, and
attended all the funerals without reward, it never having been
known that a coffin was charged for, or the digging of a grave
for many long years. Is it a fact that these men were better
than those of the present day, or does it only exist in my
imagination? When I look back to them I think that they
were the best men I ever knew; and the dear old mothers
of these humble people are now strikingly engraved upon my
memory. The men rolled each others' logs in common; they
gathered their harvests, built their cabins, and all work of a
heavy character was done in common and without price.
The log meeting-house was reared in the same way, and it is
w. N. C— 15

226 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
a fact that this was done promptly, without hesitation — regard
less of creeds or sect — all coming together with a will. The
Baptists, "rifle, axe and saddle-bag men," or the Methodist
"circuit rider" supplied the people with the ministry of the
word; and it is pleasant to look back and reflect upon the
enjoyment and comfort these humble people had in the admin
istration by these humble ministers in the long-ago. Then
they came together and held what they called "union meet
ings," under arbors made with poles and brush, or, at the
private residence of some good citizen — often at my father's.
I remember distinctly that Nathaniel Gibson, of Crabtree
creek, converted the top story of his mill house into one of
these places of worship; and Jacob Shook, on Pigeon, the
father of the family near Clyde, turned his threshing floor,
in his barn, into a place of worship; and near this was established
about 1827 or 1828, Shook's Camp Ground. The good old
Dutchman contributed or donated to the church ten acres
of land, which have ever been kept for a place of public wor
ship. Rev. Wm. G. Brownlow.6 In the year 1832 Rev. Wm.
G. Brownlow, a Methodist minister, afterwards better known
as Parson Brownlow and Governor of Tennessee, served as
pastor of the Franklin circuit in Macon county. These were
the days of intense religious prejudices and denominational
controversies. Rev. Humphrey Posey, a kinsman of the late
Ben. Posey, Esq., was at that time the leading minister of
the Baptist church in this section.
"It was impossible for men of the type of Brownlow and Posey to
long remain in the same community without becoming involved in con
troversy. Nor did they. From denominational discussions their con
troversy degenerated into matters personal, a personal quarrel. Brown
low, as is well known, was a master of invective and his pen was dipped
in vitriol. On July 23, 1832, he wrote Rev. Posey a 24-page letter which
is still on file among the records of Macon court and which that gentle
man regarded as libelous. He thereupon indicted parson Brownlow, as
appears from the court records. The first bill was found at fall term
1832. It is signed by J. Roberts, solicitor pro tern,., and seems to have
been quashed; at any rate a new bill was sent and the case tried at spring
term 1833. Wm. J. Alexander was the solicitor when the case was tried.
The defendant pleaded not guilty but was found guilty by the jury,
whether upon the ground that the "greater the truth the greater the
Ubel" or not does not appear. He was sentenced to pay a fine and the
costs. The amount of the fine was not given but the record discloses

PIONEER PREACHERS 227
that it was paid by J. R. Siler, one of the leading citizens and original
settlers, and a prominent member of the Methodist church. Execution
issued for the costs and the return shows that on July 1, 1833, the sheriff
'levied on dun mare, bridle, saddle and saddle bags. Sold for $65.50.
Proceeds into office $53.83.'
"There is a generally accredited story to the effect that when the
sheriff went to levy on the Parson's horse, Brownlow was just closing a
preaching service at Mt. Zion church — that he saw the sheriff approach
ing and knew the purpose of his coming, and before the sheriff came up
Brownlow handed his Bible to one lady member of his congregation and
his hymn book to another and that these books are still in the families
of the descendants of these ladies. It is also said that when Brownlow
started to conference that fall, J. R. Siler made him a present of another
horse in lieu of the one that had been sold."
William Gunnaway Brownlow was born in Virginia in
1805, and became a carpenter first and then a Methodist
preacher. In 1828 he moved to Tennessee and in 1839 became
a local preacher at Jonesboro and editor of The Whig, but moved
to Knoxville, taking The Whig with him and continued its
publication till the beginning of the Civil war. He preached
many sermons defending slavery, and was defeated by Andrew
Johnson for Congress in 1843. He wrote several books, the
most famous of which was called Parson Brownlow's Book,
in which he gave his unpleasant experiences with the Con
federates and his views on secession and the Civil War. He
was a member of the convention which revised the constitu
tion of Tennessee in 1865, and was elected governor in 1865,
and again in 1867. He was sent to the United States senate
in 1869 where he remained till 1875. He died at Knoxville
in April, 1877.7
Canario Drayton Smith.8 He was a son of Samuel and
Mary Smith, and was born in Buncombe April 1, 1813. His
grandfather, Joseph Smith, was born on the eastern shore of
Maryland, April 1, 1730, and his grandmother, Rebecca
Dath (Welch), was born near the same place on April 1, 1739.
In 1765 they moved to North Carolina, and on the journey
C. D. Smith's father was born at a public inn in Albemarle
county, Va., August 20, 1765. They first settled at Haw-
fields in Guilford county, where they were living when the
battle was fought in 1780. His maternal grandfather, Daniel
Jarrett, was born in Lancaster county, Pa., December 18,
1747. He was of English blood. His grandmother Jarrett,
whose maiden name was Catharine C. Moyers, was born in

228 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Lancaster county, Pa., February 9, 1753. She was a German
woman. They were married October 25, 1772, moving to
North Carolina shortly afterwards and settling in Cabarrus,
where his mother, Mary Jarrett, was born June 23, 1775.
Soon after the close of hostilities between the Cherokees and
whites they moved to Buncombe county, where in 1796 his
father and mother were married. They moved to Macon
in the winter of 1819-20. At the sale of the Cherokee lands
at Waynesville in September, 1820, his father bought the
land known as the Tessentee towns, now Smith's Bridge,
where C. D. Smith was reared to manhood. He attended
the subscription schools of the neighborhood, and in 1832
went to Caney river, then in Buncombe, now in Yancey, to
clerk for Smith & McElroy, merchants, where he spent five
years, buying ginseng principally, getting in in 1837 over
86,000 pounds which yielded 25,000 pounds of choice clarified
root, which was barreled and shipped to Lucas & Heylin,
Philadelphia, and thence to China. In the meantime Yancey
had been created a county and John W. McElroy had been
elected first clerk of the Superior court, making C. D. Smith
his deputy. At a camp meeting held at Caney River Camp
Ground in 1836, by Charles K. Lewis, preacher in charge, of
the Black Mountain circuit, he was converted and joined the
church. At the quarterly conference at Alexander chapel the
following June he was licensed to preach by Thos. W. Catlett,
presiding elder. He continued to preach till 1850 when he
went on the supernumerary list on account of bad health. In
1853 he became agent for the American Colonization Society
for Tennessee and sent to Liberia two families of emancipated
negroes. In 1854 he became interested in mineralogy, and
continued this study of mineralogy and geology till his death.
He was assistant State Geologist under Prof. Emmons and
a co-worker with Prof. Kerr. He is mentioned in Dr. R. N.
Price's works on Methodism, and has an article in Kerr's
Geology of North Carolina. He died in 1894.

^'The Despot of Broomsedge Cove," by Mary N. Murfree.
2Asheville's Centenary.
3Reference is to 1898.
4From "A Primitive History of the Mountain Region," by Col. W. L. Bryan.
5Facts Furnished by Hon. A. H. Eller of Ashe county, 1912.
•By Fred S. Johnston, Esq., of Franklin, N. C.
'McGee, p. 173.
'From the "Autobiography of Dr. C. D. Smith," and statements of Henry G. Robert
son, Esq.

CHAPTER X
ROADS, STAGE COACHES, AND TAVERNS
Buffalo Trails and Trading Paths. It is probable
that buffaloes made the first roads over these mountains, and
that the Indians, following where they led, made their trading
paths by pursuing these highways. It is still more probable
that the buffaloes instinctively sought the ways that were lev-
elest and shortest between the best pastures, thus insuring a
passage through the lowest gaps and to the richest lands. The
same applies to deer, bear and other wild animals — they wanted
to go by the easiest routes and to the countries which afforded
the best support. It is still said in the mountains that when
the first settlers wanted to build a new road they drove a
steer or "cow-brute" to the lowest gap in sight and then drove
it down on the side the road was to be located, the tracks made
by it being followed and staked and the road located exactly
on them. The fact that John Strother mentions no trading
paths in the 1799 survey simply indicates that the Indians
had not used them for years in the territory north of the ridge
between the NoUechucky and the French Broad. No doubt
there had been trading paths until the whites came to inter
rupt their passage over the mountains. But Davenport
mentions crossing several on the 1821 survey, viz.: the Cata
loochee track at the mouth of Big creek, "the Equeneetly path
to Cades cove" at the head of Eagle creek, and at the 60th
mile from Pigeon river, in "a low gap at the path of Eque
neetly to Tallassee. " Seven miles further on they came to
another trading path of Cheogee (Cheoah) now known as the
Belding trail. At the ninety-third mile they reached "the
trading path leading from the Valley Towns to the Overhill
Settlements" and reaching the ninety-fifth mile on the path
before they paused. On August 24th they passed the white
oak, 96th mile, on top of the Unicoi mountain, and on the same
day reached the "hickory and rock at the wagon road, the
101st mile, at the end of the Unicoi mountain."
Hard Roads to Build as Well as to Travel. Powder
was scarce and tools were wanting for the construction of
(229)

230 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
roads in the early days. Dynamite and blasting powder were
then unknown. Ridges offered least resistence to the con
struction of a roadway because the timber on their crests
was light and scattered and because, principal consideration,
they were generally level enough on top to allow wagon wheels
to pass up or down them. But they were frequently too
steep even for the overtaxed oxen and horses of that time.1
The level places along creeks and rivers were the next places
where roads could be built with least labor; but these were
always subject to overflow; and cliffs shutting in on one side
always forced the road to cross the stream to get lodgment on
the opposite bank. Sometimes there were cliffs on both sides
of the stream, and then the road had to run up the nearest
"hollow" or cove to the head of the branch flowing in it and
across the gap down another branch or brook to the stream
from which the road had just parted company. When there
was no escape from it, "side-cutting" was resorted to; but as
it took a longer road to go by a gentle grade than by a steep
climb, the steeper road was invariably built.
"Navigating Wagons." James M. Edney, in his Sketches
of Buncombe Men in Bennett's Chronology of North Carolina,
written in 1855, says:
"Col. J. Barnett settled on French Broad seventy years ago, and was
the first man to pilot or navigate wagons through Buncombe by putting
the two big wheels on the lower side, sometimes pulling, sometimes push
ing, and sometimes carrying the wagon, at a charge of five dollars for
work and labor done."2
The First Road Builders. "Most of the work done at
the earlier sessions of the county court of Buncombe related
to laying out and working roads. These roads or trails, rude
and rough, narrow and steep as they were, constituted the
only means of communication between the scattered settlers
of this new country, and were matters of first importance to its
people. They were located by unlettered hunters and farmers,
who knew nothing of civil engineering, and were opened by
their labor, and could ill afford to spare time from the support
and protection of their families. Roving bands of Indians
constantly gave annoyance to the white settlers, and frequently
where they found the master of the house absent, would
frighten the women and children into taking refuge in the
woods, and then burn the furniture and destroy the bedding

ROADS, STAGE COACHES AND TAVERNS 231
which they found in the house. Many were the privations
incident to a life in a new country suffered by these early set
ters, and many were the hardships which they underwent at
the hands of these predatory savages. We can scarcely
wonder that they saw in the red man none of the romantic
feature of character which their descendants are so fond of
attributing to him. This state of affairs continued even up
into the present century.3
The Hard, Unyielding Rocks. Whenever rock ledges
and cliffs were encountered our road-builders usually "took
to the woods." That is, they went as far around them as
was necessary in order to avoid them. But, in some cases, they
had to be removed; and then holes were drilled by driv
ing steel-tipped bars with sledge-hammers as far as practi
cable, which was rarely over two feet in depth. Into these
gunpowder costing fifty cents per pound was poured, and a
hollow reed or elder tubes filled with powder were thrust, and
the earth tamped around these. A line of leaves or straw was
laid on the ground a dozen feet or more from the tube, and
slowly burnt its way to the powder. It was a slow and inef
fective method, and too expensive to be much used. Another
and cheaper way was to build log heaps on top of the ledge
of rock and allow them to burn till the rock was well heated,
when buckets and barrels of water were quickly poured on the
rock after removing the fire, which split the rock and permitted
its being quarried.
Stage-Coach Customs. In old times there were no reserved
seats on stage coaches — first come, first served, being the
rule. This resulted, oftentimes, in grumbling and disputes,
but as a rule all submitted with good grace, the selfish and
pushing getting the choice places then as now. Three pas
sengers on each seat were insisted on in all nine passenger
coaches, and woe to that poor wight who had to take the
middle of the front seat and ride backwards. Seasickness
usually overcame him, but there was no redress, unless some
one volunteered to change seats. In dry and pleasant weather,
many preferred a seat with the driver or on the roof behind
him. Many pleasant acquaintances were made on stage coach
journeys, and sometimes friendships and marriages resulted.
Stages were never robbed in these mountains, however, as
Murrell and his band usually transacted their affairs further

232 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
west. Heated stones wrapped in rugs and blankets were
sometimes taken by ladies during cold weather to keep their
feet warm.
Old Taverns. Whenever there was a change of horses,
which usually happened at or near a tavern or inn, the pas
sengers would get out and visit the "grocery," either to get
warm inside or outside, frequently on both sides. Then,
they would walk ahead and be taken up when the coach over
took them. When meals were to be taken there was a rush
for the "washing place," usually provided with several buck
ets of cold spring water and tin basins, with roller towels.
Then the rush for the dining room and the well-cooked food
served there. Most of these meals were prepared on open
hearths before glowing beds of coals, in wide fire-places whose
stone hearths frequently extended half across the kitchen floor.
But riding at night grew very monotonous, and when possible
the ladies remained at these taverns over night, resuming
their journeys in the morning.
First Roads. Boone's trail across the mountains in 1769
was the first of which there is any record, and that seems to
be in dispute (see Chapter "Daniel Boone."). The next one
was that followed by Jairies Robertson and the sixteen fam
ilies who left Wake county after Alamance and found their
way to the Watauga settlement in Tennessee. They prob
ably followed the Catawba to its head, crossing at the
McKinney gap, and followed Bright's trace over the Yellow
and thence down to the Doe and so on to the Watauga at
Elizabethton.4 McGee says: "When the Watauga set
tlement became Washington county, in 1778, a wagon road
was opened across the mountains into the settled parts of
North Carolina . . . and in 1779 . . . Washing
ton county was divided into . . . Sullivan, etc."5
The Act of Cession, 1789, calls for the top of the Yellow moun
tain where "Bright's road crosses the same, thence along the
ridge of said mountain between the waters of Doe river and
the waters of Rock creek to the place where the road crosses
the Iron mountain"; and John Strother, in his diary of the
survey of 1799 between North Carolina and Tennessee, men
tions that the surveying party crossed "the road leading from
Morganton to Jonesborough on Thursday, June 6, 1799."
This road was north of the Toe or NoUechucky river and between

ROADS, STAGE COACHES AND TAVERNS 233
it and the Bright road over the Yellow; but, as there are now
two roads crossing between those points, it is important to
ascertain which is the one opened in 1778, as that, undoubtedly,
was the first wagon road crossing the mountains. Chancellor
John Allison speaks of Andrew Jackson crossing this road
from Morganton to Jonesborough, Tenn., in the spring of
1788, as early "as the melting snow and ice made such a trip
over the Appalachians possible."6 It was "more than one
hundred miles, two-thirds of which, at that time, was without
a single human habitation along its course." Practically all
histories claim that Sevier and his men passed over the Bright
Trace over the Yellow; but Col. W. L. Bryan of Boone, N. C,
says that Sevier and his men passed through what is now
known as the Carver gap, southwest of the Roan, and down
Big Rock creek.7 And it does seem more probable that his
men would have followed the wagon road, which Historian
McGee says had been opened in 1778, from Sycamore Shoals,
than a trail which must have taken them considerably further
north than a road nearer the NoUechucky river would have
been. But all these dates referring to that road were prior
to the passing of the first wagon from North Carolina into
Tennessee, mentioned in Wheeler's History of North Carolina
as occurring in 1795. 8 Indeed, John Strother mentions
another "road" at a low gap between the waters of Cove creek
(in what is now Watauga county) and Roan creek (in what is
now Johnson county, Tenn.) ; but the road over which the first
wagon passed into Tennessee in 1795 was probably the one
Bishop Asbury traveled from 1800 to October, 1803, over
Paint mountain to Warm Springs; and was not the road on
the left side of the river leading down to the mouth of Wolf
creek. This road is a mile and a half southwest of Paint
Rock. Probably no road at that time followed the river
bank there. It is certain, however, that in 1812 Hoodenpile
had charge of a road from Warm Springs to Newport, Tenn.,
and was under contract to keep it in repair from the "top of
Hopewell Hill (now Stackhouse) to the Tennessee line."9
William Gillett had built it from Old Newport, Tenn., to the
North Carolina line.10 It was on the right bank all the way.
The Love road leaves the river six miles below the Hot Springs
at the Hale Neilson house and joins main road 12 miles from
Greenville, Tenn.

234 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Path Crossing the Unaker Mountain.11 John Strother
tells us that about the 13th of May, 1799, they came "to the
,path crossing from Hollow Poplar to the Greasy Cove and
met our company." But what kind of a path that was he
does not say. It was probably the road through the Indian
Grave Gap, near the buffalo trail. For they were close to
the NoUechucky river then, and Bishop Asbury's Journal
records the fact that on Thursday, November 6, 1800, he
crossed NoUechucky at Querton's Ferry, and came to Major
Gragg's, 18 miles, arriving at Warm Springs next day. This
road crossed the Small and the Great Paint mountains, for he
mentions an accident that befell his horse after crossing both.
This most probably was the road over which the first wagon
passed in 1795 as recorded in Wheeler's history. In November
1802, the good Bishop "grew afraid" of Paint nountain "and
with the help of a pine sapling worked my way down the
steepest and roughest parts," on his way to Warm Springs
where, at William Nelson's, he found that thirty travelers
had "dropped in," and where he expounded to them the
scripture as found in the "third chapter of Romans as equally
applicable to nominal Christians, Indians, Jews and Gen
tiles."12 What New Road Was This? In October, 1803, he con
tinued to Paint mountain "passing the gap newly made, which
makes the road down Paint creek much better. "
The Hoodenpyle Road. In December 1812, Bishop
Asbury asks "Why should we climb over the desperate Spring
and Paint mountains when there is such a fine new road? We
came on Tuesday a straight course to Barrett's (Barnett's)
dining in the woods on our way. " This must have been the
Hoodenpyle road from Warm Springs to Newport, Tenn.,
which he was under contract to keep in order from Hopewell
Hill to the Tennessee line. This road follows Paint creek
one mile and then crosses the mountains.13 He moved to
Huntsville Landing on the Tennessee river in the territory
of Mississippi, where John Welch of Haywood, agreed^ to
deliver to him on or before the first of May, 1813, 2,667 gallons
of "good proof whiskey"; and on or before 14 of August,
1814, 1,500 gallons of the same gloom-dispelling elixir, for
value received. No wonder Philip Hoodenpile could play
the fiddle with his left hand!14

ROADS, STAGE COACHES AND TAVERNS 235
Swannanoa Gap Trail. This, doubtless, was the first
road into Buncombe from the east, and led from Old Fort in
McDowell county to the head of the Swannanoa river and
Bee Tree creek where the first settlers stopped about 1782.
How long after this it was before a wagon road was built
through this gap does not appear; but it is recorded that the
Bairds brought their first wagon through Saluda gap, some
miles to the southwest, in 1793. Even that, however, at
that date was probably only a very poor wagon road. But
a wagon road was finally built through the gap Rutherford
and his men had passed through in 1776 to subdue the Cher
okees. The Old Swannanoa Gap Road.15 "The old road through
this gap did not cross, as it has often been stated to have
done, at the place where the Long or Swannanoa Tunnel is.
In later years the stage road did cross at that place. But
the old road crossed a half a mile further south. To travel
it one would not, as in the case of the later road, leave Old
Fort and pass up Mill Creek three miles to where Henry
station, so long the head of the railroad, stood. He would
leave Old Fort and go across the creek directly west for about
a mile before going into the mountains. Then he would
turn to the right, ascend the mountain, cross it at about one-
half mile south of Swannanoa tunnel, and thence pass down
the mountain until the road joined the later road above
Black Mountain station."
Buncombe County Roads. In his very admirable work,
"Asheville's Centenary" (1898), Dr. F. A. Sondley gives a
fine account of the building of the first roads in Buncombe
county. The first of these ran from the Swannanoa river to
Davidson river, in what is now Transylvania county, crossing
the French Broad below the mouth of Avery's creek, passing
Mills river and going up Boydsteens (now improperly pro
nounced Boilston) creek; the second ran from "the wagon ford
on Rims (now called Reems) creek to join the road from Tur
key cove, Catawba, to Robert Henton's on Cane river, after
passing through Asheville. In July, 1793, the court ordered a
road to be laid off from Buncombe court house to the Bull
mountain road near Robert Love's. In 1795 a road was ordered
to run from the court house to Jonathan McPeter's on Hom
iny creek; and at a later period two other roads ran out north

236 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
from Asheville to Beaver Dam and Glenn creek. Then fol
lowed the Warm Springs road, crossing Reems creek at the
old Wagoner ford and through the rear of the old Alexander
farm, crossing Flat creek" and ran on to the farm of Bedent
Smith near the Madison county line, where it turned west
and ran to the mouth of Ivy, thence to Marshall "and about
one-half mile below that town turned to the east and ran
with the old Hopewell turnpike, built by Philip Hoodenpyle,
later known as the Jewel Hill road, to Warm Springs."
On July 8, 1795, Governor Blount of the territory south of
the Ohio river, now called Tennessee, suggested to the council
of that territory the opening of a road from Buncombe court
house to Tennessee; and Sevier and Taylor were appointed
to act with Wear, Cocke, Doherty and Taylor to consider the
matter, which resulted in the opening of a road from North
Carolina to Tennessee, via Warm Springs, following the right
bank of the French Broad to Warm Springs. In 1793 the
Bairds "had carried up their four-wheel wagon across the
Saluda gap, a road through which had been opened by Col.
Earle for South Carolina for $4,000, and is probably the old
road from Columbia, which passed through Newberry and
Greenville districts," and yet known in upper South Caro
lina as the old State or Buncombe road. "There was already
a road or trail coming from the direction of South Carolina
to Asheville," crossing the Swannanoa at the Gum Spring,
and known as the "road from Augusta in Georgia to Knox
ville." (Record Book 62, p. 361.)
The New Stock Road. This road passes through Weaver
ville, Jupiter, Jewel Hill and through Shelton Laurel in Madi
son into Tennessee, and was built when Dr. Wm. Askew,
who was born in 1832, was a boy, in order to escape the delays
of waiting for the French Broad river to subside in times of
freshets, and in winter, of avoiding the ice which drifted into
the road from the river and sometimes made it impassable.
But Bishop Asbury records the fact that on Tuesday, October
25, 1803, in coming from Mr. Nelson's at Warm Springs to
KilUan's on Beaver Dam, "the road is greatly mended by
changing the direction and throwing a bridge over Ivy."
This is probably part of the road that runs up Ivy creek from
French Broad and crosses Ivy about a mile up stream, and
then comes on by Jupiter to Asheville. If so, the New Stock

ROADS, STAGE COACHES AND TAVERNS 237
must have started from that bridge across Ivy and run by Jewel
Hill to the Tennessee line.
The Buncombe Turnpike.16 "In 1824 Asheville received
her greatest impetus. In that year the legislature of North
Carolina incorporated the now famous but abandoned Bun
combe Turnpike road, directing James Patton, Samuel
Chunn and George Swain to receive subscriptions "for the
purpose of laying out and making a turnpike road from the
Saluda Gap, in the county of Buncombe, by way of Smith's,
MaryviUe, Asheville and the Warm Springs, to the Tennessee
line." (2 Rev. Stat, of N. C, 418). This great thorough
fare was completed in 1828, and brought a stream of travel
through Western North Carolina. All the attacks upon the
legality of the act establishing it were overruled by the
Supreme court of the State, and Western North Carolina
entered through it upon a career of marvelous prosperity,
which continued for many years.
Asheville and Greenville Plank Road.16 "In 1851
the legislature of the State of North Carolina incorporated
the Asheville & Greenville Plank Road Company, with
authority to that company to occupy and use this turnpike
road upon certain prescribed terms. A plank road was con
structed over the southern portion of it, or the greater part
of it south of Asheville, and contributed yet more to Ashe-
villes's prosperity. By the conclusion of the late war, how
ever, this plank road had gone down, and in 1866 the charter
of the plank road company was repealed, while the old Bun
combe turnpike was suffered to fall into neglect. "
Asheville Gets A Start.16 From the time of the build
ing of the Buncombe Turnpike road, Asheville began to be a
health resort and summering place for the South Carolinians,
who have ever since patronized it as such.
The Watchese Road. In 1813 a company was organized
to lay out a free public road from the Tennessee river to the
head of navigation on the Tugaloo branch of the Savannah
river. It was completed in 1813, and became the great high
way from the coast to the Tennessee settlements.17
First Roads over the "Smokies." John Strother men
tions but two roads as crossing the mountains between Vir
ginia and the Pigeon river, that at "a low gap between the
waters of Cove creek — in what is now Watauga county —

238 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA 
and Roans creek — in what is now Johnson county, Tenn. —
and that of "the road leading from Morganton to Jones
borough," Tenn., between the Yellow and the Roan.18
First Roads over the Unakas. Of the survey in 1821,
from the end of the 1799 survey on Big Pigeon to the Georgia
line is 116 miles; and yet, as late as 1821 there were but two
roads crossing from North Carolina into Tennessee. They
were "the Cataloochee track" where the 1799 survey ended
and "the wagon road" at the 101st mile post on the Hiwassee
river.19 Little Tennessee River Road. Just when the wagon
road from Tallassee ford up the Little Tennessee river was
first constructed cannot be definitely ascertained. Some
sort of a road, probably an Indian trail, may have existed for
years before the coming of the whites into that section; but
it is not probable, as a road near the river bank is simply
impossible, while on the left side of the Little Tennessee is
what is now known as the Belding Trail. But this name has
only recently been bestowed on an ancient Indian trail which
followed the Cheoah river to what is now Johnson post office
and then cut across the ridges to Bear creek, passing Dave
Orr's house, to Slick Rock creek, and thence down to Tallassee
ford and the Hardin farm.
Gen. Winfield Scott's Military Road. It is probable,
however, that Gen. Winfield Scott had a military road con
structed from Calhoun, his headquarters in Tennessee, up
to the junction of the Little Tennessee with the Tuckaseegee
at what is now Bushnell; for we know that it was down this
road that most of the Cherokees were driven during the
Removal of 1838. But it was impossible for this road to
follow the river bank beyond the Paine branch, where it left
the river and by following that branch, crossed the ridge and
returned to the river again, reaching it at what is now called
Fairfax. For it was at the mouth of the Paine branch that
Old Charley, the Cherokee, and his family made their break
for liberty, and succeeded in escaping in 1838. Beyond
Rocky Point, however, it is impossible even for modern en
gineers, except at a prohibitive cost, to build a road near the
river bank, and the consequence has been that the road runs
over a series of ridges, which spread off from the end of the
Great Smoky range like so many figures, down to the Little

ROADS, STAGE COACHES AND TAVERNS 239
Tennessee. Gen. Wool's soldiers built the road from Val-
leytown to Robbinsville in 1836-7. 20
Crusoe Jack and Judge Fax. There is a tradition that,
when the treaty of Tellico in 1789 was made, Crusoe Jack,
a mulatto, got a grant to the magnificent Harden farm and
that John Harden traded him out of it. Harden worked
about fifty slaves on this farm, among whom was Fax, a mu
latto, who bought his freedom from John Harden, whose de
scendants still own this farm, and settled at Fairfax, where
Daniel Lester afterwards lived for many years, and where
Jeremiah Jenkins afterwards lived and died. Fax was called
Judge Fax and kept a public house where he supplied wagoners
and other travelers with such accommodations as he could.
Old Wilkesborough Roads. The prinicipal road from
Wilkesboro passed through Deep gap and went by Boone.
The Phillips gap road was made just before the Civil War and
after Arthur D. Cole settled on Gap creek and began his
extensive business there it was much used. All freight came
from Wilkesboro. The turnpike from Patterson over Blowing
Rock gap passed down the Watauga river and Shull's Mills
to Valle Crucis, Ward's store, Beech, and Watauga Falls to
Cardens' bluff in Tennessee, after which it left the Watauga
river and crossed the ridge to Hampton and Doe river, going
on to Jonesboro. It was surveyed about 1848 by Col. William
Lenoir and built soon afterwards. David J. Farthing and
Anderson Cable remember seeing the grading while it was
being built, and Alfred Moretz of Deep Gap was present
when sections of the road were bid off by residents, the bid
ding being near the mouth of Beech creek.
The Western Turnpike. In 1848-9 the legislature passed
an act to provide for a turnpike road from Salisbury to the
line of the State of Georgia. The lands of the Cherokees were
later pledged for the building of this "Western Turnpike,"
as it was officially called, and in 1852-3 another act was passed
"to bring into market the lands" so pledged, and this act was
later (Ch. 22, Laws 1854-5) supplemented by an act which
gave the road the proceeds of the sales of the Cherokee lands
in Cherokee, Macon, Jackson and Haywood counties. At the
latter "session another act was passed making Asheville the
eastern' terminus and the Tennessee line, near Ducktown, the
western terminus of this road, and providing that it should

240 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
also extend to the Georgia line; but that the latter road should
be only a branch of the main road. It also provided that in
case the bridge across the French Broad river — presumably
Smith's bridge at Asheville — could not be obtained on satis
factory terms, the route of the turnpike might be changed
and a new bridge constructed. As this was not done, it is
probable that satisfactory terms were made for the use of
Smith's bridge, as it had been sold to Buncombe county
about 1853. When this road reached the Tuckaseegee river
"the influence of Franklin and Macon county was the prin
cipal force which took it across the Cowee and Nantahala
mountains21. The survey was made by an engineer by the
name of Fox in 1849. It was completed over the Valley river
mountains and Murphy in 1856. The late Nimrod S. Jarrett
was chief of construction. Chapter 51, Laws of 1854-5 defined
the duties of and powers of turnpike and plankroad compa
nies, and acts incorporating the latter throughout the State
passed at that session extend from page 178 to page 216,
showing their popularity.
Smith's Bridge. Long before a bridge had been built
across the French Broad at Asheville Edmund Sams, who had
come from the Watauga settlement and settled on the west
side of the French Broad at what was later known as the
Gaston place about a mile above the mouth of the Swanna
noa operated a ferry there. He had been an Indian fighter,
and later a soldier of the Revolution. He was also for years
a trustee of the Newton Academy, and died on the farm of
his father-in-law, Thomas Foster, near Biltmore. John Jar
rett afterwards lived at the western terminus of the present
bridge, keeping the ferry and charging toll. Subsequently he
sold it to James M. Smith, who built a toll bridge there, which
he maintained till about 1853, when he died, after having sold
the bridge to Buncombe county. After this it became a free
bridge. In 1881 it was removed to make way for the pres
ent iron structure, but its old foundations are yet plainly to be
seen.22 That old bridge was a single track affair without
handrails for a long time before the Civil War, and nothing
but log stringers on each side of the roadway. Col. J. C.
Smathers of Turnpike remembers when, if a team began to
back, there was nothing to prevent a vehicle going over into
the river. Chapter 313, Laws, 1883, made it unlawful to

ROADS, STAGE COACHES AND TAVERNS 241
drive or ride faster than a walk over the new double-track
bridge at Asheville."
Carrier's Bridge. This was built about 1893, crossing
the French Broad at the mouth of the Swannanoa river. It
was afterwards sold to the county. Pearson's Bridge, near
Riverside Park, was built by Hon. Richmond Pearson about
this time, but afterwards taken over by the county. The
Concrete bridge below the passenger depot was finished and
opened in 1911.
Gorman's Bridge. This is about five miles below Ashe
ville and was erected long before the war, but was washed
away. It was replaced by the present iron structure, about
1900. The Anderson Road. About the year 1858 a road was
made from the head of Cade's Cove in Blount county, Tenn.,
around the Boat mountain to what is now and was probably
then the Spence Cabin at Thunderhead mountain. It was
finished to this point, in the expectation that a road from the
mouth of Chambers creek, below Bushnel, would be built over
into the Hazel creek settlement, and thence up the Foster
ridge and through the Haw gap to meet it. But North Caro
lina failed to do its part, and the old Anderson road in a ruin
ous condition, but still passable for footmen and horsemen, re
mains a mute witness to somebody's bad faith in the past.
Great Road Activity. Between 1848 and 1862, while the
late Col. W. H. Thomas was in the legislature, the statute
books are full of charters for turnpike and plankroad com
panies all through the mountains. Many of these roads were
not to be new roads but improvements on old roads which
were bad; and some of the roads authorized were never built;
at all. The Jones gap road to Caesar's head, the road from
Bakersville to Burnsville, the road from Patterson to Valle
Crucis and on to Jonesboro, the road up Cove creek by trade
and Zionville to what is now Mountain City, the road over
Cataloochee to Newport, the road up Ocona Lufty, the road
through Soco gap, the road up Tuckaseegee river and the
Nantahala, through Red Marble gap, etc., were all chartered
during that time. And Col. Thomas was especially interested
in the road from Old Valleytown over the Snowbird moun
tain, via Robbinsville (Junaluska's old home) down the Che-
owah river to Rocky Point, where he had built a bridge across
W. N. C— 16

242 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
the Little Tennessee and was confidently awaiting the ap
proach of the Blue Ridge railroad, which has not arrived yet.
Old Stage Coach Days. "From Greenville to Greenville"
was the watchword when bids were made for the mail lines in
those days. Each Greenville was sixty miles from Asheville.
The stops between Greenville, S. C. and Asheville were, first,
at C. Montgomery's, ten miles north of Greenville, then at
Garmany's, twenty miles; then at Col. John Davis's, near the
State line, where Col. David Vance was taken to die after his
duel with Carson in 1827; then at Hendersonville; then at
Shufordsville, or Arden, 12 miles, then at Asheville. Col.
Ripley sold out to John T. Poole, of Greenville, S. C, about
1855, and he ran hacks till 1865 when Terrell W. Taylor bought
him out and continued to run hacks till the Spartanburg &
Asheville Railroad reached Tryon, about 1876.
Old Stage Coach Contractors. J. C. Hankins of Green
ville, Term., used to have the line from that point to Warm
Springs, his stages starting out from Greenville nearly oppo
site the former residence of the late Andrew Johnson, once
President of the United States, and whose son, Andrew John
son, Jr., married Elizabeth, the second daughter of Col. J. H.
Rumbough of Hot Springs. He stopped running this line,
however, when the railroad reached Wolf Creek in 1868. The
late Wm. P. Blair of Asheville, who used to run the old Eagle
hotel, also ran the stage line from Asheville to Greenville,
Tenn., (this was at the beginning of the Civil War) until his
stock and coaches were captured by Col. G. W. Kirk. In
July, 1866, Col. Rumbough ran the stage line from Greenville,
Tenn., to Greenville, S. C. The "stands," as the stopping
places were called, were breakfast at Warm Springs, dinner
at Marshall, supper at Asheville. Owing to the condition of
the roads Col. Rumbough cut down the toll gate at Marshall
in July, 1866, and the matter was compromised by allowing
him to apply the tolls to keeping the road in condition, in
stead of letting the turnpike company do it.
Keen Competitors. Col. Rumbough ran the line about
a year and a half, when Hon. A. H. Jones, congressman, got
the contract, but failed to carry it out, and Col. Rumbough
took it again.
The Morganton Line. The stage line from Morganton
to the "head of the railroad," as the various stopping place

ROADS, STAGE COACHES AND TAVERNS 243
along the line as the road progressed toward Asheville were
called, was running many years before the Civil War. After
that, the late E. T. Clemmons of Salem came to Asheville
and operated the line from Old Fort to Asheville.
Through Hickory-Nut Gap. In 1834 Bedford Sherrill
secured a four years' contract to haul the mails from Salis
bury via Lincolnton, Schenck's Cotton mills, and Ruther-
fordton to Asheville. He moved shortly afterwards to Hick
ory Nut gap, for years thereafter famous as one of the old
taverns of the mountains. Ben Seney of Tennessee succeeded
him as mail carrier on this route, but he did not complete his
contract, giving it up before the expiration of the four years.
Old fashioned Albany stage coaches were used.
Hacks to Murphy. As the railroads approached Ashe
ville the hacks and stages were taken off. The late Pinckney
Rollins ran a weekly hack line, which carried the mail, from
Asheville to Murphy from about 1870, and shortly afterward
changed it to a daily line. But he failed at it, and lost much
money. The stopping places in 1871 were Turnpike for
dinner, Waynesville for supper, where a stop was made till
next day. Then to Webster for dinner and Josh Frank's,
two miles east of Franklin, for supper and night. The third
day took the mail through Franklin to Aquone for dinner
at Stepp's, at the bridge23; and to Mrs. Walker's, at Old Val
ley Town, for supper. The next day the trip was made to
Murphy for dinner, and back that night to Old Valley Town.
As the railroad progressed toward Waynesville the hacks ran
from the various termini to that town.
From Salem to Jonesborough. As far back as 1840 stages
or hacks ran from Salem via Wilkesboro, Jefferson, Creston,
through Ambrose gap, Taylorsville, Term., to Jonesboro,
Tennessee; but they were withdrawn at least ten years before
the Civil War, after which Samuel Northington ran a line of
hacks from Jefferson to Taylorsville, now Mountain City,
Tennessee. Stages were rim from Lenoir via Blowing Rock,
Shulls Mills and Zionville from 1852 to 1861.
Moonlight and the Old Stage Horn. In 1828, when
"Billy" Vance kept the Warm Springs hotel, old fashioned
stage coaches ran between Asheville and Greenville, Tenn.,
and Greenville, S. C.24 According to the recollection of Dr.
T. A. Allen of Hendersonville, N. C, "the old stage line back

244 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
in 1840 was operated by the Stocktons of Maryland from
Augusta, Ga., "via Greenville, S. C, Asheville, N. C, the
Warm Springs and across Paint Mountain to Greenville,
Tennessee. "The line from Greenville, S. C, to Greenville,
Tenn., was sold to the late Valentine Ripley, who bought it
and settled in Hendersonville about 1845." They ran Con
cord coaches — -sometimes called Albany coaches — which were
swung on leather braces and carried nine passengers inside,
with a boot behind for trunks, and space on top and beside
the driver for several additional passengers. The driver was
an autocrat, and carried a long tin horn, which he blew as
stopping places were approached, to warn the inn-keepers of
the number of passengers to be entertained. Nothing was
lovelier on a moonlit, frosty night than these sweet notes
echoing over hill and dale:
"O, hark, O, hear, how thin and clear,
And thinner, clearer, farther going!
O, sweet and far from cliff and scar
The horns of Elfland faintly blowing!"
When the railroad was completed to Greenville, S. C, in
1855, Col. Ripley ran stages from Greenville, Tenn., to Green
ville, S. C, daily, though in 1853 he had been limited to the
run from Greenville, S. C, to Asheville, N. C."25
Jefferson and Wilkesborough Turnpike. In 1901
the Wilkesborough and Jefferson Turnpike company was
incorporated. (Private Laws, ch. 286) and the road was
completed in five years. The State simply furnished the
convicts and the stockholders the provisions and the expenses
of the guard.
Other Counties Get Good Roads. In 1911 Hon. J. H.
Dillard secured the passage by the legislature of a road law
under which Murphy township is authorized to issue $150,-
000.00 of six per cent bonds for the improvement of the roads,
and the four main streets of the town and roads leading into
the country. Haywood had already done much for the
improvement of its roads, while Watauga has undoubtedly
the best roads west of the Blue Ridge, the roads to Blowing
Rock, Shull's Mills, Boone, Valle Crucis and Banners Elk
and Elk Cross roads being unsurpassed anywhere.
Carver's Gap Road. Chapter 63 of the Private laws

ROADS, STAGE COACHES AND TAVERNS 245
of 1881 amended chapter 72 of Private laws of 1866-67 by
allowing John L. Wilder, John E. Toppan and others to build
a turnpike from Wilder's forge on Big Rock creek across
Roan mountain to Carver's gap on the Tennessee State line;
and to make a turnpike from Carver's gap down the valley
of Little Rock creek to the ford of said creek at John G. Burli-
son's dwelling house.
Convicts to Make County Roads. On the 6th of Feb-
raury, 1893, the Buncombe county commissioners approved a
bill which had been introduced in the legislature by Gen. R.
B. Vance to use convicts for working county roads, which has
proven beneficent, except that negroes and whites are crowded
together in too small quarters. Convicts prefer work in the
open air to confinement in jails and penitentiaries.
End of Toll Gates. On the 5th of September, 1881,
the old Buncombe Turnpike company surrendered and the
commissioners accepted its charter. The turnpike down the
French Broad river having been turned over to the Western
North Carolina railroad company for stock in that enterprise
in 1869, all that was left to be surrendered was the road from
the Henderson county line to Asheville, passing through Lime
stone township. Gradually each county took over the great
Western Turnpike from Asheville to Murphy, thus abolishing
toll gates along the road, the legislature having authorized
this change. There are still toll gates on some roads, but
they have been specially authorized by legislative enactment,
and are comparatively few, Yonahlossee and Elk Park roads
being of the number.
Rip Vanwinkle Buncombe. From 1880 to 1896 Asheville
had gone ahead by leaps and bounds, having in that time
paved its streets, built electric railroads, hotels and private
residences that are still the pride of all; but the county had
stood still. Its old court house, jail and alms house were a
reflection on the progress of the times. But in 1896, "Cousin
Caney" Brown was elected chairman of the board of county
commissioners, and graded a good road from Smith's bridge
in the direction of his farm, using the county convicts for the
work.26 He had a farm at the end of the road, it is true,
and was criticised for building the road; but it was such a
well graded thoroughfare and such an object lesson that the
people not only forgave him for providing a better road to

246 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
his home, but all commissioners who have followed him have
been afraid not to contribute something to what he began.
Mark L. Reed. Profiting by the example set by "Cousin
Caney, " M. L. Reed spent a lot of good money building other
roads which were macadamized, placing good steel bridges
over creeks and rivers where they had long been needed, and
in replacing the disgraceful old court house by a modern
structure, and providing a jail that is ample for the demands
of humanity and the times. A decent home was provided
for orphan children of the county. The old alms house was
given up and better quarters provided for the old and infirm
of the county. "Cousin Caney" had set the pace, and soon
other good roads and good roads sentiment followed.
Buncombe Good Roads Association. The Good Roads
Association of Asheville and Buncombe county was organized
March 6, 1899, Dr. C. P. Ambler was the president and B.
M. Jones secretary and treasurer. These officers have been
continued in their positions ever since. Their object is the
construction and improvement of roads. They have suc
ceeded in accomplishing much good — not the least of which
are mile posts and sign boards. They raised $5,000.00 to
improve the road from Asheville to Biltmore soon after its
organization and $550 for the survey of the "crest of the
Blue Ridge highway;" and constructed a horse-back trail to
Mitchell's Peak. They are advocating the construction of
other highways.
Yonahlossee Turnpike. About 1890 the Linville Improve
ment company was formed, having among its stockholders
Mr. S. T. Kelsey, formerly of Highlands, N. C, and before
his building of that town, of Kansas. Through his instru
mentality, largely, assisted by the Messers. Ravenel and Don
ald Macrae, the latter of Wilmington, there was constructed the
most picturesque and durable highway in the mountains or the
State. It begins at Linville City, two miles from Monte
zuma, Avery county, and runs around the eastern base of
Grandfather mountain to Blowing Rock, a distance of twenty
miles. It cost about $18,000 complete. It gave an impetus
to other road-builders. A road was soon thereafter built
from Blowing Rock to Boone, and from Valle Crucis to Ban
ners Elk. There are no finer roads in the State, and none

ROADS, STAGE COACHES AND TAVERNS 247
built on more difficult ground. In 1912 they were the delight
of numerous automobile owners. NOTES.
1 Asheville's Centenary.
2The first brakes were made of hickory saplings whose branches were twined around
the front axle and bent around the hind wheels; afterwards came "locking chains" attached
to the body of wagons and then passed between the spokes of the wheels to retard the
vehicle's going down steep grades. Young trees dragge d. on the road also served at times.
3Asheville's Centenary.
4Roosevelt (Vol. I, 225) records the fact that on his return from hig first visit to Watauga,
in the fall of 1770, James Robertson lost his way, and for 14 days lived on nuts and berries,
and abandoned Ms horse among impassible precipices. If he followed up the left bank of
the Watauga and did not see that the Doe came into the former stream at what is now
EUzabethton, it is easy to see how he followed up the left bank of the latter and got lost
amid the precipices of what is now Pardee's Point.
^Roosevelt, Vol. Ill, pp. 97-98.
B" Dropped Stitches in Tennessee History," p. 4.
'Letter from Col. W. L. Bryan of Boone to J. P. A., December 3, 1912.
BAsheville's Centenary. Wheeler's History of North Carolina, p. 476.
»Deed Book E., p. 121-2, Buncombe.
10Statement of Francis Marion Wells to J. P. A., July 15, 1912. Old Newport is three
miles above the present town, the railroad does not pass the former at all.
1 ^This must have been a 1 ocal name for this part of the range, for the real Unaka moun
tains are southwest of Little Tennessee river.
12This is spelled Neilson.
I3Deed Book E, Buncombe, p. 122.
i*Ibid., p. 123.
15Asheville's Centenary.
16From Asheville's Centenary.
17See chapter on Cherokee Indians.
18Deed Book E, Reg. Deeds, Buncombe county, pp. 122-123.
19Davenport's Diary quoted in chapter on boundaries.
20Sketch of Graham County by Rev. Joseph A. Wiggins, February 3, 1912.
2ICapt. James W. Terrell in The Commonwealth, Asheville, June 1, 1893.
22Condensed from Asheville's Centenary, 183 8.
23But from 1872 dinner was taken at Capt. A. R. Munday's.
2*Col. J. H. Rumbough to J. P. A., November 13, 1912.
2BDr. T. A. Allen to J. P. A ., November 12, 1912.
2flThis was T. Caney Brown.

CHAPTER XI
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS
Then and Now. Probably there was no more difference
in the manners and customs of the early days than we should
now see in a community of modern people situated as were
our ancesters one hundred and fifty years ago. There was a
spirit of co-operation then that made conditions much easier
to bear than they might otherwise have been. Those who
remember the Civil War times in the South will recall that it
is possible to get on without many things ordinarily consid
ered indispensible; and that when it is the "fashion" to do
without, simplicity becomes quite attractive. Calico gowns
and ribbonless costumes used to look well on pretty women
and girls during the war, and hopinjon was far better than
no hopinjon. We imagine that we are far removed from a
state of nature, but when the occasion arises we readily adapt
ourselves to primitive manners and customs.
The Rush for the Mountains. Long before the treaty
of 1785 white men had passed beyond the Blue Ridge to hunt
and trap. Ashe was sparsely settled long before Buncombe;
but as soon as the land between the Blue Ridge and the
Pigeon river was open for settlement legally, white men began
to settle there, too.
Where They Came From. Most of these early settlers
came from east of the Blue Ridge, though many came from
the Watauga Settlements in what is now Tennessee. Wolf
Hill, now Staunton, contributed its quota, most of them going
into what are now Ashe, Alleghany and Watauga counties.
The charm of hunting lured many, but most who sought the
mountains doubtless came from the mountainous regions of
Scotland. After the French and Indian War several families
that had gone into the Piedmont region of South Carolina,
came through the Saluda gap and settled in what was then
Buncombe, though now called Henderson and Transylvania.
The Whiskey Rebellion in Pennsylvania late in the Eighteenth
century is also credited with having sent many good citizens
into the mountains of western North Carolina.
(248)

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 249
The Pioneer Spirit Persists. Roosevelt was the first
historian that gave to the pioneers of western North Carolina
and Tennessee their rightful place in reclaiming from savage
Indians the boundless resources of the Great West. Sam
Houston, Davy Crockett and Daniel Boone went from our
sacred soil, and added Texas and Kentucky to the galaxy of
our starry flag; while Joseph Lane of Oregon first saw the
light of day through the chinks of a dirt-floor cabin that once
stood in the very shadow of what is still called Lane's Pinnacle
of the rugged Craggies — a mute, yet eloquent, monument to
that spirit of liberty, enterprize and adventure that still fills
our army and navy with recruits for the Sandwich and Phil
ippine Islands of the Pacific. Yet, what visitor to that match
less canon beyond Hickory Nut pass, knows that in passing
through Mine Hole gap six miles east of Asheville, he was
within a stone's throw of the spot where Lane's father in the
dawn of the last century spent laborious days while mining for
the precious ore that was to furnish horse-shoes, plough-shares
and pruning-hooks for. those who first tilled the savannahs of
the Swannanoa and the French Broad? Did the pearls of
Henry Grady's eloquence, erstwhile, drop scintilant, and thrill
the nation from the Kennebeck to the Willamette, because his
lightest gem was "shot through with sunshine"? Then know,
0 ye fools and blind, ye who never cast one longing, lingering
look behind, that his grandfather was once sheriff of that Bun
combe county whose people are classed by such self-styled
"national journals" as Collier's Weekly, with the scorners of
all law and order, because, forsooth, of the sporadic Allen epi
sode in Virginia. Who discovered that wonderland — the
matchless valley of the far-famed Yosemite? James M. Roan
of Macon county, North Carolina, in March of Fifty-one.1
He, with the Argonauts of the world, won his way to the
Pacific coast, and left to others to dig from the dim records
of the past some frail memorial of his heroic deeds. The
spirit that drove him forth has never died, and today, the
mountains and hills of Idaho, Montana, Washington and Col
orado, are dotted with the homes and ranches of those whose
feet first trod "where rolls the Oregon." And Onalaska's ice-
ribbed hills are peopled with our kin, as will be every frontier
region till Time shall be no more. Our ancestors were the
Crusaders of American civilization, and "as long as the fame

250 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
of their matchless struggle shall linger in tradition and in song
should their memories be cherished by the descendants" of the
peerless "Roundheads of the South." Still, the incredulous
may ask "Can honor's voice provoke the silent dust, or flat
tery soothe the dull, cold ear of death"? No; but if we will
but heed while yet we may the silent voices of our worthy
dead, and learn the lesson of the days now gone, we, taking
hope, with Tennyson may cry :
"Forward to the starry track,
Glimmering up the heights beyond me,
On, and always on!"
The First Indian Massacres. Samuel Davidson was
killed by Indians in 1781 or 1782 at the head of the Swan
nanoa river, near what is now Gudger's ford; and Aaron
Burleson was killed on Cane creek in what is now Mitchell
county about the same time, probably, though the date has
been lost. He was an ancestor of Postmaster-General Burleson
of President Wilson's Cabinet in 1914. Davidson had belonged
to a small colony of whites which had settled around what is
now known as Old Fort at the head of the Catawba river in
what is now McDoweU county. Among those settlers were
the Alexanders, Davidsons, Smiths, Edmundsons, and Gudgers,
from whom have come a long line of descendants now residing
in Western North Carolina. Burleson probably belonged to
the settlers around Morganton, and had ventured beyond the
Blue Ridge to hunt deer. Davidson's purpose, however, had
been permanent settlement, as he had built a cabin where his
family was living when he was killed.2
Ashe County. Except in a few localities, there are few
evidences of Indian occupation by Indians of the territory
west of the Blue Ridge and North of the Catawba. At the
Old Field on New River, near the mouth of Gap creek, in
Ashe county, was probably once a large Indian town, arrow
heads, spear points, pieces of pottery, etc., still being found
there; but this section of the mountains had not been popu
lated by the red men for thirteen years before the treaty of
1785, the Indians having leased those lands in 1772, and in
1775, conveyed them outright.3
Buffaloes. Thwaite's "Daniel Boone" gives much infor
mation as to the buffaloes that once were in this section. "At
first buffaloes were so plenty that a party of three or four men

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 251
with dogs, could kill from ten to twenty in a day; but soon the
sluggish animals receded before the advance of white men, hid
ing themselves behind the mountain wall" (pp. 17, 18). "They
exhibited no fear until the wind blew from the hunters toward
them, and then they would dash wildly away in large droves
and disappear" (p. 90). Buffalo trails led down the French
Broad; and just north of the Toe and near the Indian Grave
gap the trail is still distinctly visible where it crossed the
mountain. The valley of the French Broad was a well recog
nized hunting ground and probably it had contained many
buffaloes; but as the Cherokees occupied most of the territory
west of the Pigeon, it is more than likely that the bison family
was not so numerous there; although in Graham county there
are two large creeks which have been called Buffalo time out
of mind. Buffalo used to herd at the head of the Yadkin
river, and their trails crossed the mountains into Tennessee
at several places. But this part of the mountains had been
free of Indians for many years before 1750, when the whites
began to settle there. Col. Byrd, in his "Writings" (p. 225),
says that when near Sugar-tree creek when running the Divid
ing Line that his party met a lone buffalo two years old — a
bull and already as large as an ox, which they killed. He
adds that "the Men were so delighted with the new dyet,
that the Gridiron and Frying Pan had no more rest all night
than a Poor Husband Subject to Curtain Lectures." Roose
velt4 mentions that "When Mansker first went to the Bluffs
(now Nashville) in 1769, the buffaloes were more numerous
than he had ever seen them before; the ground literally shook
under the gallop of the mighty herds, they crowded in dense
throngs round the licks, and the forest resounded with their
grunting bellows."
One Virtue in Leather Breeches. Col. Byrd in his
"Writings" (p. 212) has these observations upon the curing
of skins by means of "smoak, " as he invariably spells it :
"For Expedition's Sake they often stretch their Skins over
Smoak in order to dry them, which makes them smell so dis
agreeably that a Rat must have a good Stomach to gnaw
them in that condition; nay, 'tis said, while that perfume con
tinues in a Pair of Leather Breeches, the Person who wears
them will be in no danger of that Villainous insect the French
call the Morpion" — whatever that may be.

252 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Some Insect Pests of Pioneer Days. This same versa
tile and spicy writer makes these sage remarks concerning cer
tain wood insects that have since that time cost these United
States millions of dollars: "The Tykes (ticks) are either Deer-
tykes, or those that annoy Cattle. The first kind are long,
and take a very Strong Gripe, being most in remote woods,
above the Inhabitants. The other are round and more gen
erally insinuate themselves into the Flesh, being in all places
where Cattle are frequent. Both these Sorts are apt to be
troublesome during the Warm Season, but have such an aver
sion to Penny Royal, that they will attack no Part that is
rubbed with the juice of that fragrant Vegetable. And a
strong decoction of this is likewise fatal to the most efficient
Seedtikes, which bury themselves in your Legs, where they are
so small you can hardly discern them without a Microscope.
[Surely the man is talking about "chiggers. "]
Horseflies and Musquetas. He says (p. 213) that Dit
tany "stuck in the Head-Stall of your Bridle" will keep horse
flies at a "respectful Distance. Bear's Oyl is said to be used
by Indians (p. 214) against every species of Vermin." He
also remarks that the "Richer sort in Egypt" used to build
towers in which they had their bed-chambers, in order to be
out of the reach of musquetas, because their wings are "so
weak and their bodies so light that if they mount never so
little, the Wind blows them quite away from their Course,
and they become an easy prey to Martins, East India Bats,"
etc. (p. 214).
Fire-Hunting. This Gentleman of Old Virginia (p. 223) de
scribes an unsportsman-like practice of the early settlers of set
ting the woods afire in a circumference of five miles and driving
in the game of all kinds to the hunters stationed near the center
to slaughter the terrified animals. The deer are said "to
weep and groan like a Human Creature" as they draw near
their doom. He says this is called Fire-Hunting, and that
"it is much practiced by Indians and the frontier Inhabit
ants." This, however, is not what was later known as fire-
hunting, which consisted in blinding the deer with the light
from torches at night only, and shooting at their eyes when
seen in the darkness.
Primogeniture Reversed. So hateful and unjust to our
ancestors seemed the English rule which gave the eldest son

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 253
the real estate, that a custom sprang up of giving the young
est son the family homestead, which persists till this good
hour. Each girl got a cow, a mare and sufficient "house-
plunder" with which to set up house-keeping, but they rarely
got any land, the husband being expected to provide that.
This latter practice still exists, though girls now sometimes
get land also.
Game and Hunters. According to Thwaite's "Daniel
Boone" (p. 18), "Three or four men, with dogs, could kill
from ten to twenty buffaloes in a day," while "an ordinary
hunter could slaughter four or five deer in a day. In the
autumn from sunrise to sunset he could kill enough bears to
provide over a ton of bear meat for winter use; wild turkeys
were easy prey; beavers, otters and muskrats abounded; while
wolves, panthers and wildcats overran the country."
"Throughout the summer and autumn deerskins were in their
best condition. Other animals were occasionally killed to
afford variety of food, but fur-bearers as a rule only furnish
fine pelts in the winter season. Even in the days of abun
dant game the hunter was required to exercise much skill,
patience and endurance. It was no holiday task to follow
this calling. Deer, especially, were hard to obtain. The hab
its of this excessively cautious animal were carefully studied;
the hunter must know how to imitate its various calls, to take
advantage of wind and weather, and to practice all the arts
of strategy" (p. 74).
Commercial Side of Hunting. "Deerskins were, all
things considered," continues Thwaite (p. 74), "the most
remunerative of all. When roughly dressed and dried they
were worth about a dollar each; as they were numerous and
a horse could carry for a long distance about a hundred such
skins, the trade was considered profitable in those primitive
times, when dollars were hard to obtain. Pelts of beavers,
found in good condition only in the winter, were worth about
two dollars and a half each, and of otters from three to five
dollars. Thus a horse-load of beaver furs, when obtainable,
was worth about five times that of a load of deerskins; and
if a few otters could be thrown in, the value was still greater.
The skins of buffaloes, bears, and elks were too bulky to carry
for long distances, and were not readily marketable. A few
elk hides were needed, however, to cut into harness and straps,
and bear and buffalo robes were useful for bedding."

254 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
How Game and Pelts Were Preserved. Thwaite con
tinues (p. 75), "When an animal was killed the hunter skinned
it on the spot, and packed on his back the hide and the best
portion of the meat. At night the meat was smoked or pre
pared for 'jerking,' and the skins were scraped and cured.
When collected at the camps, the bales of skins, protected
from the weather by strips of bark, were placed upon high
scaffolds, secure from bears and wolves. Our Yadkin hunt
ers were in the habit, each day, of dividing themselves into
pairs for company and mutual aid in times of danger, usually
leaving one pair behind as camp-keepers. " Tow, rammed into
the barrel of a "dirty" rifle took the oder of burnt powder,
and was hung in trees near the fresh meat. This oder kept off
wolves, wild cats, etc.
The Plott Dogs. The motive which prompted the settle
ment of most of these mountain counties was the desire of
the pioneers to hunt game. To that end dogs were necessary,
the long bodied, long legged, deep mouthed hound being used
for deer, and a sort of mongrel, composed of cur, bull and
terrier, was bred for bear. The Plott dog, called after the
famous bear hunter, Enos Plott, of the Balsam mountains of
Haywood county, was said to be the finest bear dogs in the
State. A few of them still exist and command large prices.
Although most of the settlers were Scotch, collies and shepherd
dogs did not make their appearance in these mountains till
long after the Civil War. They are quite common now.
When Land Was Cheap. Land was plentiful in those
primitive times and as fast as a piece of "new ground" was
worn out, another "patch" was cleared and cultivated until
it, in its turn, was given over to weeds and pasturage. In
all old American pioneer communities it was necessary to
burn the logs and trunks of the felled trees in order to get rid
of them, and the heavens were often murky with the smoke of
burning log-heaps. The most valuable woods were often used
for fence rails or thrown upon the burning pile to be consumed
with the rest. Fences built of walnut and poplar rails were
not uncommon. "New ground" is being made now by scien
tific fertilization.
Crude Cultivation. The ploughing was not very deep
and the cultivation of the crops was far from being scientific.
Yet the return from the land was generally ample, the seasons

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 255
usually proving propitious. There was one year, however,
that of 1863, when there was frost in every month. There
was still another year in which there could not have been
very much rain, as there is a record of a large branch near
the Sulphur Springs in Buncombe county having dried up
completely. This was in August of the year 1830. (Robert
Henry's Diary.)
Unerring Marksmen. The flint-lock, long-barreled Ken
tucky rifle was in use in these mountains until the commence
ment of the Civil War. Game was abundant. Indeed, if the
modern repeating arms had been in use in those days, the
game upon which many depended, not only for food but for
clothing as well, would have disappeared long before it did.
The fact that the hunter could get but one shot from his gun
resulted in making every Nimrod a sure marksman, as he
realized that if he missed the first shot the game would be
out of sight and hearing long before he could "wipe out" his
trusty rifle, charge it with powder and with his slim hickory
ramrod ram down the leaden bullet encased in buckskin, and
"prime" his flint-lock pan with powder.
Useful Peltries. The hams of the red deer were cured
and saved for market or winter use, while the skins of both
deer and bears were "dressed" with the hair left on them and
made into garments or used as rugs or mats for the children
to play upon before the wide fireplace, for bed coverings, or
cut into plough lines and bridles, or made into moccasins.
Out of the horns and hoofs of cows they made spoons and
buttons, while from hollow poplar logs they constructed bee
hives, cradles for their children, barrels for. their grain, ash
hoppers, gums for their bees and what not.
Cotton. Small patches of cotton were planted and culti
vated in sandy and sheltered spots near the dwellings, which
generally reached maturity, was gathered and "hand-picked,"
carded and made into batting for quilts and cloaks, or heavy
skirts for the women and girls.
Jacks of All Trades. The men were necessarily "handy"
men at almost every trade known at that day. They made
shoes, bullets and powder, built houses, constructed tables,
chairs, cupboards, harness, saddles, bridles, buckets, barrels,
and plough stocks. They made their own axe and hoe-han
dles, fashioned their own horseshoes and nails upon the anvil,

256 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
burnt wood charcoal, made wagon tires, bolts, nuts and every
thing that was needed about the farm. Some could even make
rifles, including the locks, and Mr. John C. Smathers, now
(1912) 86 years old, is still a good rock and brick mason, car
penter, shoemaker, tinner, painter, blacksmith, plumber, har
ness and saddle maker, candle maker, farmer, hunter, store
keeper, bee raiser, glazier, butcher, fruit grower, hotel-keeper,
merchant, physician, poulterer, lawyer, rail-splitter, politician,
cook, school master, gardener, Bible scholar and stable man.
He lives at Turnpike, halfway between Asheville and Waynes
ville, and brought the huge trees now growing in front of his
hotel on his shoulders when they were saplings and planted
them where they now stand, nearly seventy years ago. He
can still run a foot race and "throw" most men in a wrestle
"catch as catch can." He is the finest example of the old
time pioneer now alive.
Industrious Women. But it was the women who were the
true heroines of this section. The hardships and constant toil
to which they were generally subjected were blighting and ex
acting in the extreme. If their lord and master could find
time to hunt and fish, go to the Big Musters, spend Saturdays
loafing or drinking in the settlement or about the country
"stores," as the shops were and still are called, their wives
could scarcely, if ever, find a moment they could call their
own. Long before the palid dawn came sifting in through
chink and window they were up and about. As there were
no matches in those days, the housewife "unkivered" the
coals which had been smothered in ashes the night before to
be kept "alive" till morning, and with "kindling" in one hand
and a live coal held on the tines of a steel fork or between iron
tongs in the other, she blew and blew and blew till the splinters
caught fire. Then the fire was started and the water brought
from the spring, poured into the "kittle," and while it was
heating the chickens were fed, the cows milked, the chil
dren dressed, the bread made, the bacon fried and then coffee
was made and breakfast was ready. That over and the dishes
washed and put away, the spinning wheel, the loom or the
reel were the next to have attention, meanwhile keeping a
sharp look out for the children, hawks, keeping the chickens
out of the garden, sweeping the floor, making the beds, churn
ing, sewing, darning, washing, ironing, taking up the ashes,

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 257
and making lye, watching for the bees to swarm, keeping the
cat out of the milk pans, dosing the sick children, tying up
the hurt fingers and toes, kissing the sore places well again,
making soap, robbing the bee hives, stringing beans, for win
ter use, working the garden, planting and tending a few hardy
flowers in the front yard, such as princess feather, pansies,
sweet- Williams, dahlias, morning glories; getting dinner, darn
ing patching, mending, milking again, reading the Bible,
prayers, and so on from morning till night, and then all over
again the next day. It could never have been said of them
that they had "but fed on roses and lain in the lilies of life."
Fashion on a Back Seat. There was little thought of
"finery," no chance to display the latest fashions, few drives
or rides for pleasure, and only occasionally a dance, a quilt
ing party or a camp meeting. No wonder the sons and daugh
ters of such mothers are the best citizens of the "Old North
State"! Pewter Platters and Pottery. The early settlers
"burned their own pottery and delftware,"5 but most of
their dishes and spoons were of pewter, though horn spoons
were also in evidence. "They made felt hats, straw hats and
every other article of domestic consumption." Most young
people never saw a bolster, and pewter plates are tied up with
blue ribbons these days and hung on parlor walls as curiosi
ties. Frontier Kitchens and Utensils.6 "Dishes and other
utensils were few — some pewter plates, forks and spoons;
wooden bowls and trenchers, with gourds and hard-shelled
squashes for drinking mugs. For knife, Boone doubtless used
his belt weapon, and scorned the crock plates now slowly
creeping into the valley, as calculated to dull its edge. "...
Grinding corn into meal, or cracking it into hominy, were, as
usual with primitive peoples, tasks involving the most machin
ery. Rude mortars and pestles, some of the latter ingeni
ously worked by springy "sweeps," were commonly seen;7 a
device something like a nutmeg grater was often used when
the corn was soft;8 two circular millstones, worked by hand, .,
were effective, and there were some operated by water power.
Medicine and Superstition. "Medicine was at a crude
stage, many of the so-called cures being as old as Egypt, while
others were borrowed from the Indians. The borderers firmly
W. N. C.-17

258 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
believed in the existence of witches; bad dreams, eclipses of
the sun, the howling of dogs, the croaking of ravens, were
sure to bring disasters in their train."9 Teas made of bur
dock, sassafras, catnip, and other herbs are still in use. Lye
poultices were considered sovereign remedies for wounds and
cuts. Hair bullets shot from guns against barn doors Were
sure to drive away witches. Tangled places in a horse's mane
or tail were called "witches' stirrups," in which the witches
were thought to have placed their feet when riding the animals
over the hills.10 Mullein was cultivated for medicine for horses
and cows.
Nailless Houses. Nails were scarce in those days and
saw mills few and far between, rendering it necessary for them
to use wooden pins to hold their ceiling and shelving in place
and to rive out their shingles or "boards" for their roof cov
ering and puncheons for their door and window "shutters"
and their flooring. Thin boards or shingles were held in posi
tion upon the roof rafters by long split logs tied upon them
with hickory withes, or held in place by laying heavy stones
upon them. The.r,e is still standing in the Smoky mountains a
comfortable cabin of one large room, floored and ceiled on the
inside, and rain and wind proof, in the construction of which
not a single nail was used. This cabin was built in 1859 and
is on the Mill Creek Fork of Noland Creek in Swain county.
First Houses. A single room was as much as could be
built at first, then followed a shed, a spring house, a stable
and crib. Then would come the "double" log house. In
some of these houses there might be as many as six rooms,
including two garret or loft rooms above the two main rooms
of the house, and two shed rooms or lean-tos. After saw mills
became more general, frame houses were erected, often of
from eight to twelve rooms, with the kitchens detached from
the main dwelling. But the log cabin in which Abraham
Lincoln was born, and now enshrined in a marble palace at
Hogdensville, Ky., is a fair sample of the average home of
pioneer days.
"Chinked and Dobbed. " The walls of these log houses
were "chinked and daubed." That is, the spaces between
the logs were filled with blocks or scraps of wood and the
interstices left were filled with plain, undisguised mud — lime
being too expensive to be used for that purpose.

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 259
The Great "War Governor's" Home. The house in
which Hon. Zebulon Baird Vance, the great War Governor
and statesman of the Old North State lived for many years
is on Reems Creek in. Buncombe county. It consisted of a
single large room below and a garret or loft above, reached by
rude stairs, almost a ladder, running up in one corner near the
chimney. There was also a shed room attached to the rear
of this house. Some of us are quite "swagger" nowadays,
but we are all proud of our log-cabin ancestry.
Unglazed Windows. Windows, as a rule, were scarce.
The difficulty and expense of glazing them were so great as
to preclude the use of many. Most of those which found
place in the walls of the house were made by removing about
18 inches from one of the wide logs running the length of the
house and usually opposite the huge fire place. It rarely con
tained any sash or glass and was closed by a sliding shutter
running in grooves inside the wall. It was rare that upstairs
or loft rooms contained any windows at all.
Primitive Portiers. Privacy was obtained by hanging
sheets or counterpanes from the overhead sleepers or "jists, "
as the joists were almost universally called. Behind these
screens the women and girls dressed when "men folks" were
present, though their ablutions were usually performed at the
"spout" or spring, or in the room after the male element had
gone to their work. Sometimes a board partition divided the
large down-stairs room into two, but as this made a very dark
and ill-ventilated bedroom far removed from the light of the
front and back doors and cut off from the heat of the fire
place, this division was not popular or general.
The Living Room. Usually, in more primitive days, the
beds, mostly of feathers, were ranged round the room, leav
ing a large open space in the middle. The dining table stood
there or against a wall near the fireplace. The hearth was
wide and projected into the room two feet or more. A crane
swung from the back of the chimney on which pots were hung
from "pot hooks," — familiar to beginners in writing lessons —
and the ovens were placed on live coals while their lids, or
as they were generally called "leds, " were covered with other
live coals and left on the broad hearth. In the kitchen of the
old Mitchell Alexander hotel or "Cattle stand," eleven miles
below Asheville on the French Broad, there is still standing

260 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
and in daily use a deep old fireplace ten feet wide, the hearth
of which projects into the room eight or nine feet. The water
bucket with a curved handled gourd stood on a shelf just
inside the door. Usually there was no wash pan, the branch
or spout near by being deemed sufficient for all purposes. A
comb in a box under a small and imperfect looking-glass was
usually hung on the wall over the water bucket. Around the
walls behind the beds on pegs were hung the skirts of the
girls and women; and, if the men of the house owned any
extra coats or trousers, they hung there, too. On the tops of
boxes or trunks, usually called "chists, " were folded and piled
in neat order the extra quilts, sheets and counterpanes. Some
of these counterpanes or "coverlids" were marvels of skill
and beauty in color and design and all were woven in the
loom which stood at one end of the porch or shed in front of
the house. There was also a wooden cupboard nailed against
the wall which contained racks for the plates and dishes.
Beneath this was a place for the pots and pans, after the cook
ing was over.
Where Colonial Art Survives.11 Mrs. Eliza Calvert
Hall has discovered recently that "in the remote mountains
of the South, where civilization has apparnetly stood still ever
since the colonial pioneers built their homes there," they still
make coverlets that are rich "in texture and coloring" and
are "real works of art." Of course we are also told that this
art was first brought to America through New England; but she
fails to state that it was also brought to Philadelphia, Charles
ton and every other American port through which English,
Scotch or Irish women were admitted to America. That it
has perished everywhere else, and still survives among us,
might indicate that civilization instead of having stood still,
in the mountains has at least held its own there, while it has
receded in New England. That, however, is immaterial. Cer
tain it is that Mrs. Finley Mast of Valle Crucis is now at
work on an order from President Wilson, and expects soon to
see specimens of her handiwork in the White House of the
nation. Slanders by the "unco' Guid. " Because in the spring of
1912 the Allen family of the mountains of Virginia "shot up"
the court at Hillville, the entire "contemporary mountaineer"
is condemned as resenting "the law's intrusion," partly, per-

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 261
haps, because he himself enjoys few of the benefits of civilized
society.12 We regret the ignorance of this self-styled "national
weekly" and others who defame us, and in view of the exploits
of the "gunmen" of Broadway a few months later13 recall
with complacency the louse that gave occasion for that im
mortal prayer : "Oh, wad some power the giftie gie us to
see ourselves as others see us." Little of good about the
mountain whites is ever published North of Mason and Dixon's
line. The Watauga Democrat of July 10, 1913, records the fact
that a few days before a journalist of New Canaan, Conn.,
and a photographer and illustrator of New York, had visited
Boone, and that they had distinctly stated that their sole
object in visiting these mountains was to look up "the des
titution, ignorance and vice among the mountain whites."
They were surprised to learn that the Applachian Training
School was located in Boone, and wanted no facts as to the
good it was accomplishing. Their names were stated in the
Democrat. In "The Child That Toileth Not," Thomas R.
Dawley, Jr., (1912) has presented many photographs of the
most destitute and degenerate of the mountain population,
ignoring the splendid specimens of health and prosperity he
met every day. About 1905 a "lady" from New York had
two photographs taken of the same children at Blowing Rock.
In the first they were dressed in rags and outlandish clothing;
in the second, they wore most tasteful and becoming garb.
She labeled the first "Before I Began," and the second, "After
Three Weeks of Uplift Work." She had offered a prize to
the child who should appear for the first picture in the worst
clothing, and another prize for the child who should dress
most becomingly for the second. The work of Miss Prudden
and of Miss Florence Stephenson is appreciated by us; but
our slanderers only make our blood boil. For, in the Outlook
for April 26, 1913, appeared "The Case of Lura Sylva, "show
ing the filth, destitution, depravity and degrading surround
ings of a twelve-year-old girl "which" we are told is "not an
unusual" story of similar conditions "in a prosperous farming
community of the Hudson river valley. " Nothing worse has
ever been written of any of the "mountain whites" than is
there recorded of this girl. Let your charity begin at your
own home. Charles Dudley Warner made a horseback trip
from Abingdon, Va., to Asheville in August, 1884. He saw

262 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
absolutely nothing on that trip which he could commend.
("On horseback," 1889) except two pianos he found in the
home of the Worths at Creston. He was, however, lavish
with his fault finding.
Every Home a Factory. Manufacture means hand-made.
Therefore, since few homes manufacture anything today, we
have made no progress in manufactures, but have receded
from the time when every home was a factory. We have
instead simply adopted machinery and built factories.
Some Lost Arts. Those who never lived in a mountain
ous country are often surprised at the sight of what we call
sleds, slides or sledges, made of the bodies of small trees with
crooked ends, turning upward like those of sleigh runners,
though much more slumsy and heavy. As these runners wore
down they were "shod" by tacking split saplings under them.
Sleds can be hauled on steep hill-sides where wheeled vehicles
would turn over or get beyond control going down hill. Our
"Union" carpenters of this day could not build a house with
the materials and tools of their pioneer ancestors, nearly all
of whom were carpenters. Modern carpenters would not
know what "cracking" a log was, for instance; and yet, the
pioneer artizans of old had to make their boards by that
method. It consisted in driving the blade of an ax or hatchet
into the small end of a log by means of a maul, and inserting
wooden wedges, called "gluts." On either side of this first
central "crack" another crack was made, and gluts placed
therein. There were usually two gluts placed in each crack
and each was tapped in turn, thus splitting the log uniformly.
These two riven pieces were next placed in "snatch-blocks,"
which were two parallel logs into which notches had been cut
deep enough to hold the ends of these pieces, which were held
in position with "keys" or wedges. The upper side of this
riven piece was then "scored" with a broad ax and then
"dressed" with the same tool, the under edges being beveled.
The length of these pieces, now become puncheons, was usu
ally half the length of the floor to be covered, the two ends
resting on the sleeper running across the middle of the room.
The beveled edges were placed as near together as possible,
after which a saw was run between them, thus reducing the
uneven edges so that they came snugly together, and were air
tight when pinned into place with wooden pegs driven through

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 263
augur-holes into the sills and sleepers. Hewed logs were first
"scalped," that is the bark was removed with an ax, after
which the trunk was "lined" with a woolen cord dipped in
moist charcoal, powdered, which had been made from locust
bark. This corresponded to what is now called a chalk-line.
Then four of these lines were made down the length of the
log, each pair being as far apart as the hewed log was to be
thick — usually four to six inches — one pair being above and
the other pair below; after which the log was "blocked" with
an ax, by cutting deep notches on each side about four feet
apart. These sections were then split from the sides of the
log, thus reducing its thickness to nearly that desired. Then
these sides were "scored" and then dressed till they were
smooth. The block on which the "Liberty Bell" of Phila
delphia rests still shows this "scoring," or hacks made by the
broad-ax. Houses were framed on the ground by cutting the
ends of the logs into notches called "saddles" which, when
placed in position, fitted like joiner work — each log having
been numbered while still on the ground. When the logs
were being placed in position they were lifted into place on
the higher courses by means of what were called "bull's-eyes."
These were made of hickory saplings whose branches had been
plaited into rings and then slipped over the logs, their stems
serving as handles for pulling, etc.
Roofing Log Houses. Modern carpenters would be puz
zled to roof a house without nails or shingles or scantling; but
their forbears accomplished this seemingly impossible task
with neatness and dispatch. After the main frame or "pen" of
the house was up, two parallel poles were laid along and above
the top logs, and "gable" logs were placed under these, the
gable logs being shorter than the end logs of the house. This
was continued till the gable end was reached, when the "ridge
pole" was placed in position, being held there with pegs or
pins. The frame of the roof was now ready, and "boards,"
or rough shingles were riven from the "blocks" or sections of
chestnut, poplar or white oak, though the latter would "cup"
or twist into a curved shape if "laid" in the "light" of the
moon. The lower ends of the lowest row of "boards" rested
against the flat side of a split log, called the "butting pole,"
because the boards butted upon it. Upon the lower row of
boards, which were doubled in order to cover the cracks in

264 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
the under tier, a single row of boards was then laid, the first
row being held in place by a split log laid on them and made
fast by pegs driven through their ends and into the ends of
the poles under the boards. These were also supported by
"knees." The various pieces of roofing were called eve-
bearers, rib-poles, weight poles, etc., etc.
Tanning Hides and Making Shoes. According to Col.
W. L. Bryan, every farmer had his tan-trough, which was
an excavation dug out of a poplar or chestnut log of large
size, while some had two troughs in one log, separated by
leaving a division of the log in place. Into these troughs
ashes or lime was placed, diluted with water. Skins should
always be salted and folded together a few days till all the
blood has been drawn out; but salt was high and scarce,
and this process was often omitted. When "green" hides
were to be tanned at once, they were first "fleshed," by
being placed on the "fleshing block" and scraped with a
fleshing knife — one having a rounded edge. This block was
a log with the upper surface rounded, the lower end rest
ing on the ground and the upper end, supported on pegs,
reaching to a man's waist. Fleshing consisted in scraping
as much of the fat and blood out of the hide as possible.
When hides were to be dried before being tanned, they
were hung lengthwise on poles, with the flesh side upper
most, and left under shelter till dry and hard. Hair was
removed from green and dry hides alike by soaking them in
the tan-trough in a solution of lime or wood ashes till the
hair would "slip" — that is, come off easily. They were then
soaked till all the lime or ashes had been removed, after which
they were placed again on the fleshing bench and "broken" or
made pliable, with a breaking-knife. They then went into
the tan-trough, after having been split lengthwise into two
parts, each of which was called a "side." The bottom of
the tan-trough was lined with a layer of bark, after which a
fold of a "side" was placed on the bark and another layer of
bark placed above the upper fold of the side; then the side
was folded back again and another layer of bark placed on
it, and so on till the tan-trough had been filled. Then water
was turned or poured in, and the mass allowed to remain two
months, after which time the bark and water were renewed
in the same manner as before. This in turn remained another

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 265
two months, when the bark and water were again renewed.
Two months longer completed the process, making six months
in all. This was called "the cold-ooze" process, and while it
required a much longer time it made better leather than the
present hot-ooze process, which cooks and injures the leather.
The hide of every animal bearing fur is thicker along the
back-bone than elsewhere, and after the tanning process this
was cut off for sole leather, while the rest was blacked for
"uppers," etc. The under side of the thin or "uppers"
leather was then "curried" with a knife, thus making it as
smooth as the upper side. Sole leather, however, was not
curried ordinarily. "Buffing" was the removal of the "grain"
or upper surface of the hide after it had been tanned, thus
making both sides alike. Smaller skins were tanned in the
same way, and those of dogs, coons, ground hogs, etc., were
used for "whang" leather — that is, they were cut into strings
for sewing other leather with. Horse collars, harness and
moccasins thus joined will outlast those sewed with thread.
The more valuable hides of smaller animals were removed
from the carcass without being split open, and were then
called "cased" hides. This was done by splitting open the
hind legs to the body and then pulling the skins from the
carcass, fore legs and head, after which they were "stretched"
by inserting a board or sticks inside, now the fur-side, and
hanging them up "in the dry" till dried. Other less valu
able skins were stretched by means of sticks being stuck into
the four "corners" of the hide, tacked to the walls of the
houses under the eaves and allowed to dry. The women
made moccasins for the children by doubling the tanned deer
skin along the back, laying a child's stocking along it so that
the sole of the stocking was parallel with the fold in the skin,
and then marking around the outline of the stocking, after
which the skin, still doubled, was cut out around the out
line, sewed together with "whang" leather, placed on a last
till it was "shaped," after which it was ready for wear. The
new moon in June was the best time for taking the bark from
trees. White and chestnut oak bark was preferred1, the outer
or rough part of the bark having been first removed with a
drawing knife, which process was called "scurfing" or " semi
ring. " The bark was then piled, inside up, under shelter, and
allowed to dry. Among the personal effects of Abraham

266 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Lincoln's grandfather were "a drawing-knife, a currying-
knife, and a currier's knife and barking iron."14 Lime was
scarce in most localities in this section, and ashes were used
instead. Every deer's head was said to have enough brains
to "dress" its hide.16 The brains were rubbed into the hair
of the hide, after which the hide was folded together till the
hair would "slip," when the hide was placed in the tan-
trough and tanned, the brains thus taking the place of lime
or ashes. After vats came in bark mills came also.
Elizabethan English? Writers who think they know,
have said that our people have been sequestered in these
mountains so long that they speak the language of Shake
speare and of Chaucer. It is certain that we sometimes say
"hit" for it and "taken" for took; that we also say "plague"
for tease, and when we are willing, we say we are "consent-
able." If we are asked if we "care for a piece of pie," we
say "yes," if we wish to be helped to some; and if we are
invited to accompany anyone and wish to do so, we almost
invariably say "I wouldn't care to go along," meaning we do
not object. We also say "haint" for "am not" "are not" and
"have not," and we invite you to "light" if you are riding or
driving. We "pack" our loads in "pokes," and "reckon we
can't" if invited "to go a piece" with a passerby, when both
he and we know perfectly well that we can if we will. Chaucer
and Shakespeare may have used these expressions : we do not
know. We are absolutely certain, though, that "molases" is as
plural as measles; and ask to be helped to "them" just as con
fident that we shall be understood as people of greater cul
ture hope their children will soon recover from or altogether
escape "them," meaning only one thing, the measles. Though
we generally say we "haven't saw," it is the rarest thing in
the world when we do things "we hadn't ought to," and we
never express surprise or interest by exclaiming, "Well, I
want to know." On the other hand we have Webster for
our authority that "hit" is the Saxon for it; and we know
ourselves that "taken" is more regular that "took"; Webster
also gives us the primary meaning of "plague": anything
troublesome or vexatious; but in this sense applied to the
vexations we suffer from men, and not to the unavoidable
evils inflicted on us by divine providence; while "tease"
means to comb or card, as wool; to scratch, as cloth in dress-

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 267
ing, for the purpose of raising a nap; and to vex with impor
tunity or impertinence." Surely one may be in a mood or
condition of consent, and when so, why is not he "consent-
able"? Webster also says that "care" means "to be inclined
or disposed; to have regard to; with "for" before a noun, and
"to" before a verb;" while "alight" is "to get down or descend,
as from horseback or from a carriage, " the very sense in which
we invariably use it, our only fault consisting in keeping the
"a" silent. Webster does not authorize the use of "pack"
as a verb transitive, in the sense of bearing a burden, but he
gives "burden or load" as the meaning of the noun "pack";
while a "poke" is "a pocket; a small bag; as, a pig in a poke."
A "piece" is a fragment or "part of anything, though not
separated, or separated only in idea," in which sense going
"a piece" (of the way, understood) is quite intelligible to
some of us who do not know our letters. Being, in our own
estimation, at least, "as well as common," in this respect as
in many others, "we still manage to understand and to be
understood"; and claim that when we "want in," we gener
ally manage to "get" in, whether we say "get" or not. Still,
in these respects, we may "mend," not improve; and who
shall say that our "mend" is not a simpler, sweeter and more
significant word than "improve"? But we do mispronounce
many words, among which is "gardeen" for guardian, "col-
ume" for column, and "pint" for point. The late Sam Lovin
of Graham was told that it was improper to say Rocky
"Pint," as its true name is "Point." When next he went to
Asheville he asked for a "point" of whiskey. We even take
our mispronounciation to proper names, and call Metcalf
"Madcap"; Pennell "Pinion"; Pilkington "Pilkey"; Cutbirth
"Cutbaird"; Mast "Moss"; Presnell "Pressly"; Moretz
"Morris"; and Morphew "Murphey." "Mashed, mum-
micked and hawged up, " means worlds to most of us. Finally,
most of us are of the opinion of the late Andrew Jackson,
who thought that one who could spell a word in only one
way was a "mighty po' excuse for a full grown man."
Horse Trading.16 "It is an interesting sight to watch
the proceedings of a shooting-match. If it is to be in the
afternoon, the long open space beside the creek, and within
the circle of chestnut trees, where the shooting is to be done,
is empty; but, just as the shadow of the sun is shortest, they

268 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
begin to assemble. Some of them come on foot; others in
wagons, or, as is most generally the case, on horseback gal
loping along through the woods. The long-haired denizen of
the hidden mountain cove drops in, with his dog at his heels.
The young blacksmith, in his sooty shirt-sleeves, walks over
from his way-side forge. The urchins who, with their fish-
rods, haunt the banks of the brook, are gathered in as great
force as their "daddies" and elder brothers.
"A unique character, who frequently mingles with the
crowd, is the 'nat'ral-born hoss-swopper.' He has a keen eye
to see at a glance the defects and perfections of horse or mule
(in his own opinion), and always carries the air of a man who
feels a sort of superiority over his fellow men. At a prancing
gait, he rides the result of his last sharp bargain, into the
group, and keeps his saddle, with the neck of his horse well
arched, by means of the curb-bit, until another mountaineer,
with like trading propensities, strides up to him, and claps
his hand on the horse's mane.
"An examination on the part of both swappers always
results in a trade, boot being frequently given. A chance to
make a change in horseflesh is never let slip by a natural-
born trader. The life of his business consists in quick and
frequent bargains; and at the end of a busy month he is either
mounted on a good saddle horse, or is reduced to an old rack,
blind and lame. The result will be due to the shrewdness or
dullness of the men he dealt with, or the unexpected sickness
on his hands of what was considered a sound animal."
Frolics.17 The banjo and the fiddle have been as con
stant companions of the pioneers of the mountains of North
Carolina as the Bible and the Hymn Book. The country
"frolics" or "hoe-downs", were necessarily less recherche
than the dances, hops and germans of the present day, for,
as a rule, the dancing had to take place on the uneven punch
eon floors and in a very restricted space, often procured by
the removal of the furniture of the kitchen or bed room, for
usually a dwelling rarely had more than these two apart
ments, in the earlier days.
Poor Illumination. Owing to the fact that kerosene was
unknown in the pioneer days, there was but poor illumination
for those little mountain homes, generally consisting of but
one large room and a shed or lean-to in the rear. Tin candle

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 269
molds and heavy wicks were used with the tallow of beeves
and deer for making of candles, which gave but a poor light.
Bear's oil in a saucer, with a spun cotton thread wick also
served to light the houses. As there were only a few books,
the early settlers did not feel the want of good lights as much
as we would at this time. So, when the days grew short and
the nights long, our forbears usually retired to their beds soon
after dark, which meant almost fourteen hours in bed if they
waited for daylight. But, usually, they did not wait for it,
arising long before the sun came above the horizon, building
huge fires and beginning the day by the light of the blazing
logs. This is one reason so many of those people saw the "falling
of the stars" on the early morning of the thirteenth of Novem
ber, 1833. Twenty years ago there were still living scores of
people who witnessed this extraordinary and fearful sight.
Danger from Wild Animals. Panthers, wild cats, wolves
and bear were the most troublesome depredators and they
were the means of much serious damage to the stock of the
settlers, most of which was driven to the mountain ranges,
where luxuriant grasses abounded from May till October.
Colts, calves and pigs were frequently attacked and destroyed
by these "varmints," as the settlers called them. But while
there was Uttle or no danger to human beings from these ani
mals, the black bear being a notorious coward, unless hemmed
up, the "women folk" were "pestered" by the beautiful and,
on occasion, malodorous pole-cat or skunk, the thieving o'pos-
sum, the mink, weasel, etc., which robbed the chicken roosts
after dark. Moles and chipmunks, also destroyed their "gar
den truck" in early summer, while hawks and eagles played
havoc with their fowls, and crows pulled up the young corn
and small grain which had not been sown deep enough.
The Original "Houn Dawg. " Hounds were the princi
pal breed of dogs employed by the pioneer. Crossed with the
more savage species, the hound also made a good bear dog,
and the Plott bear dogs were famous in the pursuit of Bruin.
Some settlers kept a pack of ten or fifteen hounds for deer
dogs. The Dark Side of the Cloud. But from Thwaite's
"Daniel Boone" we gather much that robs the apparent
charm of pioneer Ufe of something of its attractiveness.

270 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
"Among the outlying settlers, much of the family food came
from the woods, and often months would pass without bread
being seen inside the cabin walls" (p. 58). "For head cov
ering, the favorite was a soft cap of coon-skin, with the bushy
tail dangling behind; but Boone himself despised this gear,
and always wore a hat. The women wore huge sunbonnets
and loose gowns of homemade cloth; they generally went
barefoot in summer, but wore moccasins in winter" (p. 29).
These moccasins were "soft and pliant, but cold in winter,
even when stuffed with deer's hair and leaves, and so spongy
as to be no protection against wet feet, which made every
hunter an early victim to rheumatism." That many prison
ers were massacred is also an evidence of the harshness of
these times.
Touchstone and Terpsichore. There were shooting
matches at which a young steer was divided and shot for,
foot races, wrestling bouts, camp-meetings, log-rollings, house-
raisings and the "Big Musters" where cider and ginger cakes
were sold, which drew the people together and promoted social
intercourse, as well as the usual religious gatherings at the
"church houses." Singing classes and Sunday Schools, now
so common, were not at first known in these mountains, and,
indeed, even Sunday Schools are of comparatively recent origin.
When a young couple were married they were usually sere
naded with cow horns, tin pans and other unearthly noises.
This is still the custom in many parts of the mountains. Agri
cultural fairs were unknown in the olden days. Horse-racing
over ordinary roads, horse-swapping and good natured con
tests of strength among the men were also in vogue generally.
Before the Days of "Bridge." Among the women and
girls there were spinning, carding, reeling and knitting matches,
and sometimes a weaving match. x 8 Quilting parties were
very common, and, indeed, the quilting frame can still be
observed in many a mountain house, suspended from the
ceiling above, even in the modern parlor or company room.
All sorts of superstitions attended a quilting — the first stitch
given being usually emblematic of the marriage of the one
making it and the last of the death of the person so unfor
tunate as to have that distinction. Of course the coverlid or
top of the quilt, usually a patchwork of bright scraps of cloth
carefully hoarded and gathered from all quarters, had been

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 271
prepared in advance of the gathering of the quilting party,
and the quilting consisted in spreading it above the wool or
cotton rolls spread uniformly on a white cloth and stitching
the upper and lower cloths together. Hence the great con
venience of the quilting frame which held the quilt and was
lowered to a point about waist high.
The "Causus Belli." At school it was customary for the
larger boys to bar the teacher out when a holiday was ardently
desired. This was accomplished by placing themselves inside
the school room and barring the door by placing the rude and
backless benches against it and refusing to remove them. As
there was but one door and no windows the teacher was help
less, and, after threatening and bullying for a time, usually left
the boys in possession of the school house till the following
day, when no one was punished. For anyone, be he friend or
foe, but especially a stranger to holler "school butter" near a
school was to invite every urchin to rush from the room; and
the offender had either to treat the scholars or be soundly
thrashed and pelted. In Monroe county, Tennessee, near
Madisonville, in the year of grace 1893, this scribe was dared
and double-dared to holler those talismanic words as he passed
a county school, but ignominiously declined.
"Ant'ny Over." A game almost universal with the chil
dren of that day was called "Ant'ny Over. " Sides were chosen,
one side going to one side of the house and the other to the
other. A ball was tossed over the roof by one side, the prob
lem being whether it would reach the comb of the roof and
fall on the other side. If it did so and was caught by one on
that side, that side ran around the house and tried to hit
somebody on the other side with the ball; if they succeeded
the one hit had to join the other side, and the side catching
the ball had to throw it over the house and so on until one
side lost all children. The rule was for the side tossing the
ball to cry "Ant'ny!" as they were ready to throw the ball
and when the other side hollered "Over!" the ball was thrown.
Mountain Lager Beer. Methiglen, a mildly intoxicating
drink, made by pouring water upon honey-comb and allowing
it to ferment, was a drink quite common in the days of log
rollings, house raisings and big musters. It was a sweet and
pleasant beverage and about as intoxicating as beer or wine.
Lawful Moonshine. "Ardent spirits were then in almost

272 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
universal use and nearly every prosperous man had his whis
key or brandy still. Even ministers of the gospel are said in
some instances to have made and sold liquor. A barroom was
a place shunned by none. The court records show license to
retail issued to men who stood high as exemplary members of
churches. On November 2, 1800, Bishop Asbury chronicles
that "Francis Alexander Ramsey pursued us to the ferry,
franked us over and took us to his excellent mansion, a stone
house; it may not be amiss to mention that our host has built
his house, and taken in his harvest without the aid of whiskey. "
Moonshining. Before railroads were constructed in these
mountains there was no market for the surplus corn, rye and
fruit; and it was considered right to convert these products
into whiskey and brandy, for which there was always a market.
When, therefore, soon after the Civil War, the United States
government attempted to enforce its internal revenue laws,
much resistance was manifested by many good citizens. Grad
ually, however, illicit distilling has been relegated to a few
irresponsible and ignorant men; for the penalty inflicted for
allowing one's land to be used as the location for a still, or to
grind corn or malt for illicit stillers, or to aid them in any way,
is great enough to deter all men of property from violating
the law in this regard. Moonshining is so called because it
is supposed that it is only while the moon is shining that
illicit stilling takes place, though that is erroneous, as much of
it is done during the day. But, as these stills are located,
usually, in the most out-of-the-way places possible, the smoke
arising during the day from the stills attracts attention and
final detection. Stills are usually located on small, cold
streams, and on wild land little adapted to cultivation. Some
times, however, stills are situated in the cellar or kitchen or
other innocent looking place for the purpose of diverting sus
picion. Neighbors, chance visitors, the color the slops give to
the streams into which they drain, and other evidence finally
lead to the arrest of the operators and the destruction of the
stilling plant and mash. The simplest process is to soak corn
till it sprouts, after which it is dried and ground, making malt.
Then corn is ground into meal, and it and the malt are placed
in tubs with water till they sour and ferment, making mash.
This mash is then placed in the still and boiled, the steam
passing through a worm or spiral metal tube which rests in a

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 273

cooling tub, into which a stream of running water pours con
stantly. This condenses the steam, which falls into the
"singling keg"; and when a sufficient quantity has been pro
duced, the mash is removed from the still, and it is washed
out, after which the "singlings" are poured into the still and
evaporated, passing through the worm a second time, thus
becoming "doublings," or high proof whiskey. It is then
tested or proofed — usually by shaking it in a bottle — when its
strength is determined by the bubbles or "beads" which rise
to the top. It is then adulterated with water till it is "right, "
or mild enough to be drunk without blistering the throat.
Apples and peaches are first mashed or ground, fermented and
evaporated, thus becoming brandy. Still slops are used to
feed cattle and hogs, when practicable, but moonshiners
usually have to empty their slops upon the ground, from which
it is sure to drain into some stream and thus lead to dis
covery. Still slop-fed hogs do not produce as firm lard as
corn-fed animals, just as mash-fed hogs do not produce as
good lard as corn-fed hogs, though the flesh of mast-fed hogs
is considered more delicate and better flavored than that of
any other kind.
Blockading is usually applied to the illegal selling of moon
shine whiskey or brandy.
The Strength of Union. The following account of the
cooperation common among the early settlers is taken from
" A Brief History of Macon County" by Dr. C. D. Smith,
published in 1905, at Franklin:
"It was the custom in those early days not to rely for help upon hired
labor. In harvesting small grain crops the sickle was mostly used. When
a crop was ripe, the neighbors were notified and gathered in to reap and
shock up the crops. The manner was for a dozen or more men to cut
through the field, then hang their sickles over their shoulders and bind
back. The boys gathered the sheaves together and the old men shocked
them up. The corn crops were usually gathered in and thrown in great
heaps alongside the cribs. The neighbors were invited and whole days
and into the nights were often spent in husking out a single crop. I have
seen as many as eighty or ninety men at a time around my father's corn
heap. If a house or barn was to be raised the neighbors were on hand and
the building was soon under roof. Likewise, if a man had a heavy clear
ing, it was no trouble to have an ample force to handle and put in heaps
the heaviest logs. It was no unusual thing for a man to need one or two
thousand rails for fencing. All he had to do was to proclaim that he
would have a 'rail mauling' on a given day, and bright and early the
W. N. C— 18

274 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
neighbors were on the ground and the rails were made before sun-down.
This custom of mutual aid, cultivated a feeling of mutual dependence and
brotherhood, and resulted in the most friendly and neighborly intercourse.
Indeed, each man seemed to be on the lookout for his neighbor's comfort
and welfare as well as his own. It made a community of broad, liberal-
minded people, who despite the tongue of gossip and an occasional fist
icuff in hot blood, lived in peace and good will one toward another. There
was then less selfishness and cold formality than now. ... I am
free to admit that there has been improvement along some lines, such,
for instance, as that of education, the building of church-houses, style of
dress, etc., but I am sure that there has been none in the sterner traits of
character, generosity, manliness, patriotism, integrity, and public spirit."
Giants in Those Days. It also appears from the same
very admirable sketch of Macon county, that when a new
road was desired a jury was appointed to lay it off and divide
it into sections as nearly equal as possible, the work on each
section being assigned by lot to the respective captains of
militia companies, and that the work was done without com
pensation. Dr. Smith cites an instance when he saw "men taking
rock from the river with the water breast deep to aid in build
ing wharves. They remained until the work was finished. "
Fist and Skull.
"There was another custom in those bygone days which to the pres
ent generation seems extremely primitive and rude, but which, when an
alyzed, shows a strong sense of honor and manliness of character. To
settle minor disputes and differences, whether for imaginary or real per
sonal wrongs, there were occasional fisticuffs. Then, it sometimes ocL
curred in affairs of this kind, that whole neighborhoods and communities
took an interest. I have known county arrayed against county, and
state against state, for the belt in championship, for manhood and skill
in a hand-to-hand tussel between local bullies. When these contests took
place the custom was for the parties to go into the ring. The crowd of
spectators demanded fairness and honor. If anyone was disposed to
show foul play he was withheld or in the attempt promptly chastised by
some bystander. Then, again, if either party in the fight resorted to
any weapons whatever, other than his physical appendages, he was at
once branded and denounced as a coward, and was avoided by his former
associates. While this custom was brutal in its practice, there was a bold
outcropping of character in it, for such affairs were conducted upon the
most punctilious points of honor. . . . This custom illustrates the
times and I have introduced it more for the sake of contrast than a desire
to parade it before the public. "
Horn and Bone. Buttons were made from bones and cow's
horns, while the antlers of the red deer were almost indispen-

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 275

sable as racks for the long barreled flint-lock rifle, hats, cloth
ing or other articles usually suspended from pegs and hooks.
Dinner and powder horns were from cow's horns, from which
the "picker" and "charger" hung. Ink bottles were made
from the small ends of cow's horns, powder was carried in
these water-proof vessels, while hounds were called in from
the chase or "hands" were summoned from the fields by
toots upon these far-sounding if not musical instruments.
During the Civil War, William Silvers of Mitchell county
made combs from cow's horns, filing out each separate tooth
after boiling and "spreading" the horns into flat surfaces.
He sold these for good prices, and once made a trip to Ashe
ville with a wagon for a full load of horns as the neighbor
hood did not supply the demand.
Gunpowder Bounty.19 " In 1796 Governor Ashe issued
a proclamation announcing that in pursuance of an Act to
provide for the public safety by granting encouragement to
certain manufactures, Jacob Byler, of the county of Bun
combe, had exhibited to him a sample of gunpowder manu
factured by him in the year 1799 and also a certificate prov
ing that he had made six hundred and sixty-three pounds of
good, merchantable, rifle gunpowder; and therefore, he was
entitled to the bounty under the Act (2 Wheeler's History
of North Carolina, 52). This Jacob Byler, or rather Boyler,
was afterward a member of Buncombe County court, and in
the inventory of his property returned by his administrator
after his death in October, 1804, is mentioned "Powder mill
irons." Elizabethton's Battle Monument. On a massive monu
ment erected in 1910 at EUzabethton, Tenn., to the soldiers
of all the wars in which Tennessee has participated is a marble
slab to the memory of Mary Patton who made the powder
with which the battle of Kings Mountain was fought. This
was made on Powder Mill branch, Carter county, Tennessee.
On what is still known as Powder Mill creek in old Mitchell,
so long ago that the date cannot now be fixed with certainty,
Dorry and Loddy Oaks made powder near where the creek
empties into Toe River. Zeb Buchanan now owns the land.
Wanderlust. Alexander Thomas, A. J. McBride, and
Marion Wilson, all of Cove creek, Watauga county, went to
California in 1849, crossing the plains in ox carts, and mined

276 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
for gold. Captain Young Farthing helped to carry the Chero
kees to the West in 1838, as did also William Miller, Col.
James Horton and others of Watauga. They were paid in
land warrants to be located in Kansas, but the warrants were
usually sold for what they would bring, which was little.
Jacob Townsend of near ShuU's Mills was a pensioner of the
War of 1812. Colonel J. B. Todd, Peter Hoffman and Jason
Martin of Watauga were in the Mexican war. A number of
others volunteered from these mountains, but were never
called out.
Forge Bounty Land Grants. One of the first needs of
these pioneers was iron, and in 1788 (Ch. 293, Laws of N. C.
as revised by Potter J. L. Taylor and Bart Yancey, Esqs.,
1821) the legislature passed an act by which 3,000 acres of
vacant lands "not fit for cultivation most convenient to the
different seats is hereby granted for every set of iron works,
as a bounty from this State to any person or persons who will
build and carry on the same." One or more tracts for each
set of works was to be entered and a copy of the entry trans
mitted to the next court that should be held in the county,
when a jury of twelve persons of good character should view
the land and certify that it was not fit for cultivation. Iron
works were then to be erected within three years, and when
it should be made to appear to the court that 5,000 weight
of iron had been made the grant was to be issued. "Three
forges where it was made grew up in Buncombe county, one
on Hominy creek, upon the old Solomon Luther place, which
belonged to Charles Lane; another on Reems creek at the
Coleman mill place, which belonged to the same man, but
was sold by him in 1803, to Andrew Baird; the third was on
Mills river, now in Henderson county on what has ever since
been called the Forge mountain, on which are also the Boils-
ton gold mines. The iron ore for this purpose was procured
at different places in Buncombe county. " 2 ° The State
granted to Thomas Calloway, November 21, 1807, 3,000 acres
of land in Ashe county (Deed Book D, p. 88) and to William
Daniel, David Worth, Moses L. Michael and R. Murchison
2,000 acres in Ashe county, in 1854. (Deed Book U, p. 62.)
Grants were also issued to the late Messer Fain in Cherokee,
and some of the pigs are still in existence there.
Dates of Working Old Iron Mines. From " The Iron

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 277
Manufacturer's Guide" (1859, by J. P. Lesley) we find that
Harbard's Bloomery Forge near the mouth of Helton creek
was built in 1807 and washed away in 1817; that the Cran
berry Bloomery Forge on Cranberry was built in 1820, and
rebuilt in 1856; that North Fork Bloomery Forge eight miles
northwest of Jefferson on New river, was built in 1825; aban
doned in 1829; washed away in 1840; Ballou's Bloomery
Forge, at Falls of North Fork of New river, 12 miles north
east of Jefferson, was built in 1817; washed away in 1832 by
an ice freshet; Helton Bloomery Forge, on Helton creek, 12
miles north-northwest of Jefferson, was built in 1829; washed
away in 1858; another forge was built one and one-fourth
miles further down in 1802, but did not stand long; Laurel
Bloomery Forge, on Laurel creek, 15 miles west of Jefferson,
built in 1847; abandoned in 1853; Toe river Bloomery Forge,
five miles south of Cranberry Forge, built in 1843; Johnson's
Bloomery Forge, six miles south of Cranberry Forge, built in
1841; Lovingood Bloomery Forge, on Hanging Dog, Cherokee
county, two miles above Fain's Forge, built from 1845 to
1853; Lower Hanging Dog Bloomery Forge, five miles north
west of Murphy, built in 1840; Killian Bloomery Forge one-
half miles below Lower Hanging Dog Forge, built in 1843,
abandoned 1849; Fain Bloomery Forge, on Owl creek, two
miles below Lovingood Forge, built in 1854; Persimmon creek
Bloomery Forge, on Persimmon creek 12 miles southwest of
Murphy, built in 1848; Shoal creek Bloomery Forge, on Shoal
creek, five miles west of Persimmon creek Forge, built about
1854; Palsey Forge, built by John Ballou at mouth of Helton
in 1859 and rebuilt by W. J. Pasley in 1871 (it is now aban
doned); New River Forge on South Fork of New river, one-
half mile above its junction with North Fork; built 1871,
washed away in 1878. Uriah Ballou of Crumpler, N. C, has
gold medals for the best magnetic iron ore from the Louis
iana Purchase Exposition and from the World's Fair at Paris
immediately afterwards, which was taken from these mines.
The lands are now the property of the Virginia Iron & Coke
Company. Pioneer Thors and Forges. Iron was manufactured at
these old time forges about as follows : When the ore was in
lumps or mixed with rock and dirt it was crushed by "stomp-
ers, " consisting of hardwood beams 6x6 inches, which were raised

278 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
and dropped by a cogged horizontal revolving shaft. When the
ore was fine enough it was washed in troughs to separate it from
as much foreign matter as possible. It was then ready for the
furnace, which consisted of a rock base 6x6 feet and two
and one-half feet high. On three sides of this base walls of
rock were erected two and one-half feet high, leaving one side
open. A nest was left in the bottom of this base or hearth,
through the middle of which a two inch blast pipe ran, and
projecting above it. Air was furnished to this pipe by a
stream of water passing through wooden tubes 12x12 inches.
A small fire of chips was started in this nest above the mouth of
the blast pipe. Over this fire three or four bushels of char
coal was placed and blown into a white heat. Upon this
charcoal a layer of ore was spread, and as it was heated, an
other layer of charcoal was placed above, and on it still another
layer of ore. This was gradually melted, the molten ore set
tling into the nest and the silica remaining on top. Into the
mass of melted iron an iron bar would be thrust. This bar
was used simply to form a handle for the turning of the ore
that adhered to it after it had been withdrawn and placed on
the anvil to be hammered. The melted ore thus drawn out
was called a "loop."
The hammer and the anvil were about the same weight, 750
pounds each, with an eye through, 6x12 inches. They were in
terchangeable. The anvil was placed on white-oak beams, about
the size of a railroad cross-tie, which spanned a pit dug in
the ground in order to give spring to the blow made by the
hammer. Through the eye of the hammer a beam of strong
wood was fastened, the other end working on a pivot or hinge.
Near this hinged end was a revolving shaft shod with four large
iron cogs, each about six inches long and five inches square,
and each having a rounded corner. These cogs lifted the ham
mer handle rapidly, while above the handle a wooden "bray"
overcame the upward thrust, and gravity drove the hammer
downward upon the heated mass awaiting it on the anvil.
The blows thus dealt were rapid and heavy and could be
heard under favorable conditions ten or more miles.
Silent Finger Signals. It was the duty of the "tender,"
the chief assistant of the hammerman, to withdraw the loop
from the furnace and place it on the anvil, when the hammer
man took the end of the handle and signaled with his fingers

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 279
laid on the handle to the tender to begin hammering, which
was done by the latter allowing the water to strike the wheel
which worked the hammer shaft. Two fingers indicated more
rapid hammering, three still more rapid hammering, and the
withdrawal of all fingers meant that the hammering should
cease. When the foreign matter had been hammered out of
the loop, it was divided into two or more loops of 25 to 30
pounds each; a short iron bar, to serve as handles, was welded
to each piece, and they were again placed in the furnace and
re-heated and then hammered into bars from 9 to 12 feet in
length, or divided into smaller pieces for wagon-tires, hoe-
bars, axe-bars, plough-shares, plough-molds, harrow-teeth bars,
horse-shoe irons, and gun "skelps. " There was an extra
charge for "handage" in the case of wagon-tires, because they
were hammered out thinner. In finishing up each bar or
smaller piece of iron the tender would pour cold water on its
surface to give it a hard and smooth finish.
Giant "Hammermen." The hammerman soon became a
veritable giant in his arms, and it is related of one of the older
Duggers that he could insert an arm into the eye of the hammer
and another into that of the anvil and strike the two together.
For miles below the water powers which drove these forges
the streams were muddy with the washings from the ore.
For years iron thus made was the principal commodity of
trade. The ends of the iron bars were bent like the runners
of a sled, and as many of these bars were bound together by
iron bands as could be dragged over the rough trails by a
single ox. In this crude fashion many tons of iron found a
market on farms remote from wagon roads.
Expensive Hauling. It took from three weeks to a
month to go from Asheville to Charleston or Augusta by
wagon before the Civil War. The roads were bad, and those
in charge of the wagons camped on the roadside, cooking their
own meals. No wonder freight rates were high, and that peo
ple did without much that seems indispensible now. It is
said that Waugh, Murchison & Poe, early merchants of Jef
ferson, hauled their goods from Wilmington, N. C. The late
Albert T. Summey says that : "goods were hauled from Au
gusta and Charleston and cost from $1.75 to $2.00 per hun
dred. Salt cost in Augusta $1.25 for a sack of 200 lbs. Add
§4.00 for hauling, and it is easy to understand why people

280 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
thought it cheap when they could buy it for $5.00." As
late as the spring of 1850 it took Deacon William Skiles of
Valle Cruces three weeks to ride horseback from Plymouth,
N. C. to Watauga. 2 J
Rifle Guns.22 The word "rifle" is too generic a term for
the average mountaineer; but he knows what a "rifle-gun"
is. Some of the older men have seen them made — lock, stock
and barrel. The process was simple : a bar of iron the length
of the barrel desired was hammered to the thickness of about
three-sixteenths of an inch and then rolled around a small
iron rod of a diameter a little less than the caliber desired.
After this, the rolled iron was welded together gradually —
only three or four inches being welded at a time because it
was not practicable to do more at a single "heating" without
also welding the rod which was inside. This rod was with
drawn from the barrel while it was being heated in the fur
nace and allowed to cool, and when the glowing barrel was
withdrawn from the fire the rod was inserted and the weld
ing would begin and be kept up till the bar inside began to get
too hot, after which it was withdrawn and cooled while the
barrel was being heated again, and then the same process was
repeated till the work was done. The caliber of the barrel
was now smaller than desired, but it was enlarged by drilling
the hole with a steel bit operated by water-power. The spiral
grooves inside the barrel were made by small pieces of steel,
two inches long, with saw-teeth on the edges, which served
the purpose of filing the necessary spiral channels. The cali
ber was determined by the number of bullets which could be
molded from a pound of lead, and usually ran from 80 to 140.
The caliber of rifles is now measured by the decimels of an
inch, regardless of the number of bullets to the pound of lead.
No hand-made rifle was ever known to burst. The locks,
hammers, triggers, guards, ramrods, etc., were all made on
the common anvil. 2 3
Primitive Tools and Methods. Dutch scythes for cut
ting grass have been in the mountains time out of mind, but
English scythes for the same purpose did not come into use
in some of the counties till about 1856-7. Cradles for cutting
small grain were employed about 1846; before which time
reaping hooks had been used entirely. Before thrashing ma
chines arrived small grain was separated from the stems by

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 281
means of flails, as in the old Bible days of the threshing floors —
only in western North Carolina a smooth place was made in
the hillside, if there was no level ground elsewhere, cloth was
spread down over it, and the grain beaten out by flails. After
this had been done, what was known as a "riddle" was used
to free the grain of straw and chaff, sheets or coverlids of beds
being used to fan the chaff away as the grain fell. Then
came the sieve to separate the grain from all heavy foreign
matter, after which it was ground in grist mills, and bolted
by sifting it through thin, loosely woven cloth wound over a
cylindrical wooden frame revolved by hand, a labor often im
posed by the indolent miller on the boy who had brought the
grist to mill. The miller never made any deduction from his
toll because of this labor, however.
Ground Hog Threshers. When the threshing machine
came, about 1850, it was a seven days wonder. It was what
was known as the "ground-hog" thresher, and required eight
horses to pull it from place to place. It was operated by
horse power also, which power was communicated to the ma
chine by means of a tarred cotton rope in place of a band or
sprocket chain, both of which came later. The grain and
straw came from the machine together and were caught in a
big sheet surrounded by curtains. The straw was raked from
the top of the grain by wooden forks made from saplings or
the limbs of trees. Steel pitchforks did not come into gen
eral use in these mountains till about 1850. A ground hog
thresher could thresh out about 100 bushels a day with the
help of about 16 hands, while the modern machine can easily
thresh out over 400 bushels with the assistance of 10 hands;
but as the extra hands of the olden time charged nothing for
their labor, and felt honored by being allowed to take part in
such glorious work, no complaint was ever heard on that score.
Mowing machines did not come into general use in this sec
tion till 1869 or 1870. Even the North refused them till
England took them up. 2 4
The Handy Blacksmith. Tools of all kinds were made by
the ordinary blacksmiths of the country at ordinary forges.
They made axes, hatchets, drawing-knives, chisels, augurs,
horse-shoes, horse-shoe nails, bolts, nuts and even pocket
knives! Fish and Fish Traps. Fish abounded in all mountain

282 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
streams, and "a good site for a fish trap" was the greatest
recommendation which a piece of land could have. These
places were always the first entered and granted. In them
fish by the barrelful would sometimes be caught in a single
night where the trap was well situated and strongly built.
Fishing at night in canoes by torchlight with a gig was a fa
vorite sport as well as profitable practice and it was much in
dulged in. " 2 5 Above vertical falls trout could not pass. Elk
river, above the Great Falls, had no trout till 1857 (D. L.
Low in Watauga Democrat, June 26, 1913), when men placed
them there.
Grist Mills. "The first consideration, however, with
these primitive inhabitants, was the matter of grist mills.
Hence at the first session of the [Buncombe] county court we
find it 'Ordered that William Davidson have liberty to build
a grist mill on Swannanoa, near his saw mill, Provided he
builds said mill on his own land.' This was in April, 1792.
In January, 1793, it was 'Ordered that John Burton have
liberty to build a Grist mill on his own land, on a branch of
French Broad River, near Nathan Smith's, below the mouth
of Swannanoa,' Apparently Davidson's mill was not built,
"but John Burton's was on Glenn's creek a short distance
above its mouth."
When the Clock Stopped. There were a few old seven-
day clocks brought by the first settlers, but as a rule watches
and clocks were few. Men and women learned to guess the
time with some accuracy by looking at the sun on clear days,
and guessing at it on cloudy. Following is a description of the
usual time-piece : "The clock consisted of a knife mark, ex
tending north from one of the door-facings across the punch
eon next to it. When the mark divided the sunshine that
fell in at the door from the shadow of the facing, it was noon.
AU other hours were guessed at : on cloudy days the clock
stopped."26 Culture and Manufacture of Flax. The flax seed were
sown thick, and when the plant was mature it was pulled up
by the roots and spread on the ground to dry. Then it was
bound in bundles and placed in a dry place till the envelope
surrounding the fiber was decomposed. Sometimes it was
scattered over the snow to bleach the lint. It was then re
bound in small bundles and when the farmer was ready it

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 283
was opened and placed on the "brake," which consisted of
four or five wooden slats parallel to each other through which
wooden knives passed, driving the flax stems between. After
the flax was thus broken a handful of it was placed on the
end of an upright board which had been driven into the ground,
and struck smartly by a wooden swingling knife in order to
knock off the small pieces of straw from the fiber. Then the
fiber was drawn through the hackle, which consisted of a
board from whose surface projected five or six inches a row
of iron spikes, which served to separate the tow from the flax.
The flax was then spun on the low wheels, now sometimes
seen in drawing rooms, gilded and beribboned, but never used.
Then it was wound on spools from which it was reeled into
hanks. In the elder day the women had to count the revo
lutions of the reels, but before the Civil War a device was
invented by which, after 100 revolutions, the reel would
crack, and the housewife thus knew a hank had been reeled
off. The flax thread was then ready to be spooled and placed
on the warping bars from which it was wound on the beam of
the loom. From this beam it was put through gears and
slays of split reeds, thus making the warp. After this, other
flax thread was reeled off on quills from the hanks and placed
in shuttles which were shot through the warp as the tread
opened it, and the thread thus placed between the warp was
driven back against the first thread by means of the battern,
thus making loose cloth. Wool was shorn, washed, dried,
picked, carded, spun, reeled on to brooches with shuck cores
from the spinning wheel, when it was ready to be woven or
knitted. Churches and Schools. The early settlers were Scotch-
Irish, as a whole, and their descendants are a hardy, hospit
able and enterprising pouplation, They were about equally
divided in the War between the States and are still almost
equally divided in politics. Until the coming of the railroads
there had been necessarily much of primitiveness in their
houses, clothing and manners; but religion has always been a
strong and controlling factor in their lives. Churches have
always existed here; but school-houses had been few and
small and very little attention had been given to education.
But, since the railroads have penetrated into this region, all
this has changed, and dwelling houses have improved, cloth-

284 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
ing and manners have changed, and it is the exception nowa
days to find a boy or girl of twelve years of age who cannot
read and write.
Militia Muster Days. On the second Saturday of Oc
tober each year there was a general muster at each county
seat, when the various companies drilled in battalion or regi
mental formation; and each separate company met on its
local muster grounds quarterly, and on the fourth of July
the commanding officers met at the court house to drill. The
Big Musters called most of the people together, and there was
much fun and many rough games to beguile the time. Cider
and ginger cakes were sold, and many men got drunk. There
was also some fighting, but seldom with stones or weapons.
Salable Products. Apples, hog meat, deer hams, chest
nuts, chinquapins, butter, honey, wax, lard, eggs were the
commodities they usually took to market, returning heavily
laden with salt, yarn, pins, needles, tools, crockery ware, am
munition and a few cooking utensils. They relied principally
upon herbs for such medicines as they used; they wove their
own cloth upon hand looms, spinning the wool into thread
and hetcheling or hatcheling out the flax. As sewing machines
had not yet been invented, the women and girls cut out and
sewed together all the garments used by themselves, their
children and " the men folks" generally.
No Money. According to Col. A. T. Davidson in The
Lyceum for January, 1891, the older people "had no money
to buy with. . . . All the necessaries of life were pro
cured from the markets in Georgia and South Carolina. It
was a three weeks' trip with a wagon to Augusta, Georgia.
For this market the neighborhood would bunch their prod
ucts, bring their forces together and make trips to Augusta
loaded with bacon, peltries and such other marketable arti
cles as would bear transportation in this simple way. The
return for these products was sugar, coffee, salt and molasses;
and happy was the family on the return of the wagons to be
able to have a jugful of New Orleans black molasses. And
how happy the children were to meet their fathers and broth
ers again, and have them recite the many stories of the trip.
We then bought salt by the measure, a bushel weighing about
seventy pounds. The average price on the return of the
wagon was about three dollars per bushel. It was interesting

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 285
to see the people meet to get from the wagons their portion
of the return load; and happy was the small family that got
a half hushel of salt, 50 cents worth of coffee and a gallon of
molasses. There was a general rejoicing, all going home sat
isfied and happy, content with their small cargoes, confident
that they had enough to do them for the next year. It is
remarkable how simply and carefully they lived, and with
what earnestness and hope they went to their daily toil, ex
pecting nothing more than this small contribution to their
luxury for a year to come.
Stock Raising.27 "The borders in the valley of Virginia
and on the western highlands of the Carolinas were largely
engaged in raising horses, cattle, sheep and hogs, which grazed
at will upon the broad slopes of the eastern foothills of the
Alleghanies, most of them being in as wild a state as the great
roving herds now to be seen upon the semi-arid plains of the
far West." The same occupation was followed by those who
passed west of the foothills of the Alleghanies, and is kept
up till this day. Those who had bought up the wild lands at
low figures encouraged cattle herders to pasture or "range"
their stock there. In the first place it gained their good will,
and in the second it enabled landowners to become aware of
the presence of any squatters who might seek to hold by ad
verse possession. Two other reasons were that landowners
could not have prevented the ranging of cattle except by fenc
ing in their lands, an impossible task at that time, and the
suppression of fires in their incipiency. Certain it is, that all
sorts of stock were turned into the mountains in May, where
they remained till October, with weekly visits from their own
ers for purposes of salting and keeping them gentle. After
awhile a market was found on the coast for the cows, sheep,
horses and hogs, and they were driven there in the late sum
mer and during the fall. "There annually passed through
Buncombe county an average of 150,000 hogs, driven on foot
about eight miles daily, which required 24 bushels daily for
each 1,000 and were fed on corn raised in Buncombe."28
Stock "Stands." ¦ There were many "stock stands" along
the French Broad river in ante-railroad days, for the turnpike
from Asheville to the Paint Rock was a much traveled thor
oughfare. Its stockholders made money, so great was the
travel. 2 9 James Garrett had a stand about one mile below

286 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
the Hot Springs. Then there was another opposite the Hot
Springs, known as the White House, and kept by the late
John E. Patton. At the mouth of Laurel creek was still
another stand kept by David Farnsworth. Just above the
railroad station now called Putnam's is where Woolsey had
a stand, while Zach. Candler had another at Sandy Bottoms.
Then came Hezekiah A. Barnard's stand at what is still called
Barnards, though it used to be called "Barnetts, " and oppo
site the mouth of Pine creek Samuel Chunn gave bed and
board to the weary drovers and feed to "his dumb driven"
cattle, sheep, hogs, horses, mules or turkeys. At the lower
end of what is now Marshall, Joseph Rice lived and at the
upper end of that narrow village David Vance kept a tav
ern — a long one — probably 150 feet in length, huddled be
tween the stage road and the mountains. Samuel Smith
accommodated all travelers and their belongings at the mouth
of Ivy, and Mitchell Alexander was the Boniface at Alex
ander's. Hezekiah Barnard used to boast that, while David Vance at
Lapland, now Marshall, had fed 90,000 hogs in one month,
he himself had fed 110,000 in the same period of time.
Aquilla Young, of Kentucky, also made his boast — he had
driven 2,785 hogs from Kentucky to North Carolina in a
single drove. 3 °
Old Road Houses. "The stock stands, as the hotels be
tween Asheville and Warm Springs were called, were generally
'well kept.' They began four miles below Asheville, at five
miles there was another, at seven and a half miles still an
other, at ten another, and another at thirteen and a half.
After this, at 16, 18, 21, 22, 28, 33, 36, 37, 40 and 47 mile-
posts there were still other hotels. "Many of them have
entirely gone, and actually the ground upon which some of
them stood has disappeared. The road, with a few points
excepted, is but a wreck of its former self. It was once a
great connecting link between Kentucky, Tennessee, South
Carolina and Georgia, and the travel over it was immense.
All the horses, mules, cattle, sheep and hogs were driven over
this route from the first mentioned States to the latter, and
the quantities of each and all used then was very much
greater than now. In October, November and December
there was an almost continuous string of hogs from Paint

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 287
Rock to Asheville. I have known ten to twelve droves, con
taining from 300 to one or two thousand stop over night and
feed at one of these stands or hotels. Each drove was 'lot
ted' to itself, and 'corned' by the wagon-load, the wagon
being driven through each lot with ten or a dozen men scat
tering the corn right, left and rear, the load emptied and the
ground literally covered. The drivers of these hogs were
furnished large rooms, with immense log-heap fire-places and
a blanket or two each, that they furnished themselves. They
would form a semi-circle upon the bare floor, their feet to the
fire, and thus pass the night; that they slept, I need not tell
you. After driving 20 to 50 hogs from daylight to dark they
could eat without coaxing and sleep without rocking. The
travel over this thoroughfare was the life of the country. " 3 J
Old Time Country Stores. "Corn, sixty years ago, was
'the staple production'; the culture of tobacco was not
thought of. These hotel men, many of them, kept little
stores, bartered or sold everything on a credit; and in the fall
they would advertise that on certain days they would receive
corn in payment of 'store accounts,' and then the farmers
would bestir themselves. They would commence delivering
frequently by daylight and continue it until midnight. I
have seen these corn wagons strung out for a mile and as
thick as they could be wedged. They were more anxious to
pay accounts then than some of us are now; but it was pay
or no credit next year. Each merchant had his 'trade,'
and there was no getting in debt to one and then skip to an
other. The price allowed for corn was almost invariably
fifty cents per bushel, the hotel men furnishing it to drovers
at about 75 cents. They charged the drovers from twenty
to twenty-five cents 'per diet,' meaning per meal for their
drivers, asking the whole in lame hogs at so much per pound,
or a due-bill from the manager to be paid as he returned home
after having made sale of his stock, cash being only rarely if
ever paid. These lame hogs taken on bills were kept until
a suitable time for killing — a cold spell being necessary to
save the meat — when they were slaughtered and converted
into bacon and lard. " 3 1
Hog-Killin' Time. "This hog killin' was a big time, and
'away 'fo' day' as the negroes, who were the principal partic
ipants, would say, twenty to thirty hands would build im-

288 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
mense log-heap fires; with, first, a layer of wood and then a
layer of stones, which continued till satisfactory dimensions
were reached, when the fire was applied and kept burning
until the stones reached a red-heat. In the meantime, a
platform would have been made out of puncheons, slabs or
heavy plank, at one end of which and very near the fire a
large hogshead (or scalding tub), filled with water, was placed.
Then the hot stones were transferred to the water till a proper
temperature for scalding was reached, and a certain number
of hogs having been shot and 'stuck' (bled by sticking long
knives in the throat), two stout men would plunge each hog
into the hot water and twist and turn it about until the hair
would 'slip,' when it would be drawn out and turned over
to other hands, who, with knives, would remove all the hair
from the hog, and then hang it by its hind legs, head down,
on a long horizontal pole, where it would we washed and
scraped down, opened, the entrails removed, and after cool
ing, be cut to pieces, thus making hams, shoulders and mid
dlings. Then it would be salted down, the fat having been
taken from all parts. This fat was stewed into lard, from
which the boy's dainty 'cracklings' was removed. How well
I remember the enjoyment I had on these occasions, in broil
ing upon the hot stones the 'melts,' making a delicacy that
I think would be relished even now; and in blowing up and
bursting the 'bladders,' frequently saving up a lot of them
for Christmas 'guns.' " 3 2
Our Depots Sixty Years Ago. "Forty years ago Char
leston and Augusta were our depots; think of it — thirty to
sixty days in going and returning from market! Our people
then thought little or nothing of hitching up four or six mules,
once or twice a year, and starting to market . . . with
forty to fifty hundred pounds of bacon and lard, flour and
corn meal, dried fruit, apples and chestnuts . . . and
bring back a barrel or two of molasses and sugar, a keg or
so of rice, a few sacks of salt and coffee, a little iron, a hun
dred or two pounds of nails and a box or so of dry-goods."33
Roads Sixty Years Ago. "But the roads then were
charming. I can remember when the road from Asheville to
Warm Springs, every foot of it, was better than any half-mile
of Asheville streets. Old Colonel Cunningham's 'mule and
cart' and two or three hands traversed it from beginning to

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 289
end of year, removing every loose stone and smoothing up
every place. All travel was then by private conveyance or
stage, there being several four-horse coaches out from Ashe
ville daily. " 3 4
Agriculture and Wit Sixty Years Ago. Of the farming
along the French Broad between .Asheville and Warm Springs
sixty years ago, we read that "the lands were in a high state
of cultivation, exceedingly high a great deal of it, as one would
infer in passing along the foot of many steep hills and looking
up to the top, seemingly almost perpendicular; and yet I have
ploughed over some of the worst of them many a day, and
was often indignant at the surprise expressed and sarcastic
remarks made by the passer-by. One would ask if we did
our planting with 'shot-guns'! Another, when were we go
ing to move, as he saw that we had our land rolled up ready
for a start! The Kentucky horse-drovers would say the water
of the French Broad was so worn out by splashing and dash
ing over and against the rocks that it was actually not fit
for a horse to drink!"
Herbs and Roots. Ginseng was for years the principal
herb that commanded cash in this section, but at first it
brought, when green, only seven cents a pound. It is now
worth six dollars or more. 3 5 But gradually a market was
developed for many other native herbs, such as angelico,
blood root, balm of gilead buds, yellow and white sarsaparilla,
shamonium (Jamestown or gympsum weed), corn silk (from
maize), corn-smut or ergot, liverwort, lobelia, wahoo bark,
Solomon's seal, polk root and berries, pepper and spear-mint,
poppy and rose leaves, and raspberry leaves. Dried black
berries since the Civil War also find a ready market. Arthur
Cole on Gap creek in Ashe county once did an immense busi
ness in herbs, and the large warehouses still standing there
were used to store the herbs which he baled and shipped
north. Ferns, galax leaves and other evergreens are gathered
by women in the fall and winter and find ready sale.
A Low Money Wage. Laborers and lawyers were poorly
paid in the old days, and the doctors of medicine fared little
better. A fee of one hundred dollars in a capital case was
considered the "top notch" by many leaders of the bar, while
the late David Ballard of Ox creek, Buncombe county, who
died about 1905 at the age of eighty-odd years, used to say
W. N. C— 19

290 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
that, when he was a young man, he "had worked many a
day for 25 cents a day and found himself. " But 25 cents in
those days would buy more than a dollar would now, and, as
most of the trading was by barter, money was not missed as
much as might be imagined. Stores were few and most of
the things we now consider indispensable were unknown to
many of the poorer people. Besides, everything that was
indispensable was made at home, and things that were not
indispensable were cheerfully dispensed with.
Dyes. Madder dyed red; walnut bark and roots dyed
brown; bedewood bark dyed purple; dye-flowers and snuff
weed dyed yellow; copperas dyed yellow, and burnt copperas
dyed nearly red. All black dyes rot wool. Dyes fade unless
"set" in the thread — that is, made fast before the thread is
placed in the loom. Laurel leaves, copperas, alum, and salt
set dyes. The ooze from boiled walnut roots and bark was
used to dye the wool before it was spun. It was dipped and
dried, and dipped and dried again and again till the proper
color had been attained. The dye pot stood on the hearth
nearly all the time, as it had to be kept warm. Some dye
plants were grown in the gardens, but they usually grew wild.
NOTES.
!The Century Magazine for September, 1890.
2Asheville's Centenary.
"Fifth Eth., Rep. 147.
«Roosevelt, Vol. Ill, p. 225.
5Asheville's Centenary.
Thwaites, p. 30.
7Hominy creek in Buncombe got its name from a hominy mill with a pestle worked by
water. 8These graters are still used in many places.
•Thwaites, p. 32.
10Thwaites, p. 32. The late Col. Allen T. Davidson used to tell of a famous hunter
named "Neddy" McFalls who traveled from Cataloochee to Waynesville to have a witch
doctor — a woman — remove a "spell" he thought someone had put on his Gillespie rifle.
n"Book of Hand-woven Coverlets," by Eliza Calvert Hall.
12Collier's Editorial, April 6, 1912. John Fox, Jr.'s novels.
13The murder of the gambler, Rosenthal, in August, 1912, on Broadway, New
York, N. Y.
"Tarbell, Vol. I, p. 5
"Byrd, 212.
16Zeigler & Grosscup, p. 96.
"Ibid., 94-96.
laThere is a spinning-wheel on Grassy Branch in Buncombe county on which Polly
Henry spun more thread than Judge Burton's daughter in 1824.
1 Asheville's Centenary.
'"Ibid.21From "A Life of Deacon William West Skiles."
22Asheville's Centenary.
2 3Description furnished by Col. David J. Farthing of Butler, Tenn. This applies only
to the guns whose barrels were not bored out. The late Col. Allen T. Davidson used to
tell of a famous gun-maker, who lived near Cherry Fields at the head of the French Broad
river, whose "rifle guns" were much sought. The iron bars from which they were made
were called "gunskelps. " His name was Gillespie.
"Mace's "School History of U. S.," 1904, p. 287.
25Asheville's Centenary.
20"Balsam Groves," p. 17.
"Thwaites, p. 35.
28A. T. Summey in Asheville's Centenary.
'•John A. Nichols' statement to J. P. A., July, 1912.

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 291

t "Upon tl16 organization of the Western Division of the W. N. C. R. R. Co., the stook
and property ot the Buncombe Turnpike Co. were exchanged for an equal amount of stock
in the Western Division. Shipp's Land Com. Report, pp. 284-285.
"Col. J. M. Ray in Lyceum, p. 16, December, 1890.
"Ibid., p. 17.
83Ibid., p. 16.
84The reference was to a time shortly before any paving had been done in Asheville.
85In the ".Autobiography of Rev. C. D. Smith," p. 2, we find that ginseng was "manu
factured," and Col.A. T. Davidson in the Lyceum for January, 1891, p. 5, speaks of the
"factory." Dr. Smith also says this herb was gathered "in Madison, Yancey, a portion
of Buncombe, Mitchell, Watauga, Ashe, and Alleghany counties." Col. Davidson speaks
of Dr. Hailen and Dr. Smith, of Lucius & Heylin of Philadelphia, as the merchants to whom
it was shipped.

CHAPTER XII
EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS
Junaluska. In the fall of 1910 the General Joseph Win
ston Chapter, D. A. R., unveiled at Robbinsville, Graham
county, a metal tablet, suitably inscribed, to Junaluska and
Nicie his wife. The tablet was attached to a large boulder
which had been placed on the graves of these two Cherokees.
Mrs. George B. Walker of Robbinsville read a paper in which
was given the chief facts of the career of this noted Indian
chieftain; among which was the recovery by him of an Indian
maiden who had been sold into slavery and taken to Charles
ton, S. C, by proving by microscopic tests that her hair had
none of the characteristics of the negro's. He also, on sep
arate occasions, saved the lives of Rev. Washington Lovin
good and Gabriel North, whom he found perishing from cold in
the mountains. He went with the Cherokees to the west in
1838, but returned, and was allowed to remain, the legislature
of North Carolina of 1847 having, by special act, made him a
citizen and granted him 337 acres of land near what is now
Robbinsville. The Battle of the Horse Shoe was fought
August 27, 1814, according to Alfred M. Williams' Life of
Sam Houston (p. 13), and on March 27th, according to others.
It was called the Battle of To-ho-pe-ka, and was fought in a
bend of the Tallapoosa river, Alabama, by Gen. Andrew Jack
son in the Creek War. It was fortified across the neck of the
peninsula by a fort of logs against which Jackson's small
cannon were ineffective. But in the rear there were no forti
fications except the river itself, so that Gen. Coffey, Jackson's
coadjutor, could not cross. But Junaluska swam the river
and stole the canoes of the Creeks, strung them together and
paddled them to the opposite shore, where he filled them with
a large number of Cherokees, recrossed the river, led by him
self, and attacked in the rear while Jackson attacked in front,
Sam Houston and his Tennesseans scaling the walls and grap
pling the Creeks hand to hand. The Creeks asked and received
no quarter, Houston himself being desperately wounded.
This ended the last hope of the Creeks as a nation. I-su-nu-
la-hun-ski, which has been improved into Junaluska, is Cher-
(292)

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 293
okee for "I tried but failed," and was given this chief because
at the outset of the Creek War he had boasted that he would
exterminate the Creeks, but, at first, had failed to keep his
promise. The following is the inscription on the tablet:
"Here lie the bodies of the Cherokee chief Junaluska, and
Nicie, his wife. Together with his warriors, he saved the life
of General Jackson, at the Battle of Horseshoe Bend, and for
his bravery and faithfulness North Carolina made him a citi
zen 'and gave him land in Graham county. He died Novem
ber 20, 1858, aged more than one hundred years. This monu
ment was erected to his Memory by the General Joseph Win
ston Chapter, D. A. R., 1910." Before his death Junaluska
conveyed his land to R. M. Henry. But Sheriff Hayes admin
istered on the estate of the deceased Indian and got an order
from the court for the sale of the land to make assets. Under
the sale Gen. Smythe of Ohio became the purchaser, and took
possession. The case was carried to the United States court,
where Henry won. But Judge Dick held that it was a case
in equity, and set aside the verdict of the jury, heard the
evidence himself and decided it in favor of Smythe. Henry
did not appeal. See record in office of clerk of United States
court, Asheville. It was decided in the seventies.
Peyton Colvard. This pioneer was of French extraction,
the name originally having been spelt Calvert, according to
the Rev. Mr. Verdigans of the Methodist Church, South.
Peyton Colvard came to Ashe county after the Revolutionary
War. The Colvards of Cherokee and Graham are descend
ants, as is also Dr. J. W. Colvard of Jefferson, Ashe county.
Part of Negro Mountain Falls. About the year 1830
Peyton Colvard lived in a log building which stood on the site
of the present Jefferson Cash store of Dr. Testerman, and on
the morning of February 19, 1827, the day his daughter Rachel,
now the wife of Russell Wilbar of Texas, was born, a huge mass
of rock fell from the top of Negro mountain and ploughed a
deep furrow, still visible, down its side for a quarter of a mile.
The main mass of this rock, almost intact, is still visible, with
a small tree growing on it, while large trees have since grown
in the ravine left by the fall of this immense boulder.
The Falling of the Stars. Several people still living
remember this wonderful and fearful event. Col. John C.
Smathers, who then lived on Pigeon river above Canton, remem-

294 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
bers it distinctly. He remembers hearing women wailing and
men praying. Francis Marion Wells, still living on Grass
creek in Madison county, remembers it also. He is now over
ninety-two years of age. Mrs. Eliza Burleson, still living on
the head of Cane creek in Mitchell county, remembers the
occurrence. She also is over ninety-two years of age.
Frankie Silver's Crime and Confession. According
to Mrs. Lucinda Norman, the only living sister of Charles
Silver, now (1912) 88 years of age and residing at Ledger,
Mitchell county, N. C, Frances Stewart Silver murdered her
husband, Charles Silver, at what is now Black Mountain
Station on the Carolina, Clinchfield and Ohio Railroad — the
mouth of the South Toe river — on the night of December 22,
1831. 2 She was tried before Judge Donnell, June Term, 1832,
and convicted at Morganton, where she was executed July
12, 1833. On appeal her conviction was affirmed by Judge
Ruffin (14 N. C, 332). She escaped from jail but was recap
tured. She cut her husband's head off with an ax, and then
dismembered the body, after which she tried to burn portions
of it in the open fireplace of her home. She left a poem lament
ing her fate, in which she refers to "the jealous thought that
first gave strife to make me take my husband's life." She
also pleads that her "faults shall not her child disgrace." She
also relates in the poem that
"With flames I tried him to consume
But time would not admit it done. "
She must have been educated better than the average woman
of that day. Finding that she could not get rid of the body
by burning it, she concealed portions of it under the floor, in
rock cliffs and elsewhere, claiming that he had gone off for
whiskey with which to celebrate Christmas, and had probably
fallen into the river, which had soon thereafter frozen over.
A negro with a "magic glass" was brought from Tennessee,
and as the glass persisted in turning downward, the floor was
removed and portions of the body found. The weather
growing warmer other parts of the remains revealed them
selves, a little dog helping to find some.
Two Baird Families. Indicative of the almost utter
desolation of these early scattered mountain communities is
the story of the two Baird families. On the 20th of April,

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 295
1795, John Burton sold to Zebulon and Bedent Baird all his
lots in Asheville "except what lots is [already] sold and maid
over. " s In 1819 Bedent Baird represented Ashe county in the
House of Commons. He was not the Bedent who had bought
the lots from John Burton. 4 Certain it is that another Bedent
Baird lived at Valle Crucis in what is now Ashe county, and
his descendants constitute a large and influential family in
that county at this time, just as the Bairds of Buncombe do
in that county. But these two families seem never to have
heard of the existence of the other till the 28th of January,
1858, when Bedent E. Baird wrote to Adolphus E. Baird
at Lapland, now Marshall, in answer to Baird's note of
enquiry, which he had penciled on the margin of a news
paper. In that note he had claimed Bedent as a relative
and stated that he resided at Lapland; but he failed to
sign his name or state the county in which Lapland was
situated. A. E. Baird received the letter promptly, but
seems never to have answered it. In it Bedent gave a
full family history; and the letter was published in full
in the Asheville Gazette News on February 20, 1912. This
letter was read and preserved by the numerous Bairds in
Buncombe but no one seems to be able to trace the exact
relationship between the Buncombe and the Watauga Bairds.
That they are the same family no one who knows them can
doubt, as they look, and, in many things, act alike, besides
having the same given names in many cases. 6
The Cold Saturday. This date is fixed in Watauga by the
fact that John Hartley was born on that day, which is set
down in his family Bible as February 8, 1835. On June 5,
1858, a freeze killed corn knee-high, and all fruits, vegetables
and white oak trees between Boone and Jefferson, according
to the recollections of Col. W. L. Bryan of Boone. There
was a slight frost at Blowing Rock on the night of July 26, 1876.
There was snow on the Haywood mountains June 10, 1913.
"The Big Snow." Just when occurred what old people call
the "big" snow cannot be determined to the satisfaction
of everyone. Mrs. Eliza Burleson, of Hawk, Mitchell county,
and the mother of Charles Wesley Burleson of Plum Tree,
was born on the 5th of April, 1820, on Three Mile creek, her
father having been Bedford Wiseman. She married Thomas
Burleson, now deceased, in 1840, and after the Big Snow, and

296 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
still remembers the hunters who came to her father's house
from Morganton with guns and dogs and well nigh exter
minated the deer, which could not run on the frozen surface
of the deep snow, their sharp hoofs plunging through the crust,
thus rendering locomotion impossible. Strange to say, near
this very place is now the largest private collection of deer in
the mountains — Bailey's deer-park being well stocked, while
a small number of deer still wander wild in the neighborhood
and are hunted every fall. George W. Vanderbilt's and the
Murchison deer parks also contain a number of these animals,
as well as several other smaller collections.
"Snew, Blew and Friz." T. L. Lowe, Esq., of Banner
Elk, thinks that two hundred years ago elk, moose or caribou
roamed these mountains, and that there was little or no under
brush or laurel or ivy then. He speaks of a big snow which
fell during the Fifties which recalled Dean Swift's great snow
in England, when he said "first it blew, then it snew and then
it friz." A large number of deer were killed at this time for
the same reason, the frozen crust. In Watauga they still tell
of a big snow which entirely obliterated all evidence of fences
and shrubbery; but the year seems to have been prior to 1850.
Other Weather Extravagancies. From Robert Henry's
diary we learn that in "the summer of 1815 no rain fell from
the 8th of July till the 8th of September. Trees died. " Also
that, "on the 28th day of August, 1830, Caney branch (which
runs by Sulphur spring five miles west of Asheville) ceased to
run. Tom Moore's creek and Ragsdale's creek had ceased
to run some days before; the corn died from the drouth. This
has been the driest summer in sixty years to my knowledge.
Our spring ceased to run for some weeks previous to the above
date." Again: "The summer of 1836 was the wettest
summer in seventy years in my remembrance." This is the
climax: "Thursday, Friday, and Saturday next before
Christmas, 1794, were the coldest days in seventy years,"
though as he had been born in 1765 he could not then have
been quite thirty years of age himself.
A Modern "Big Snow." On the 2d and 3d of December,
1886, a snow three feet in depth fell in Buncombe and adjoin
ing counties. On December 6th the newly elected officers of
Buncombe county were required by law to present their offi
cial bonds to the county commissioners for approval; but,

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 297
owing to the snow, it was impossible to travel very far. As a
consequence R. H. Cole, who had been elected register of deeds,
and J. V. Hunter, who had been elected treasurer, could not
provide bonds acceptable to the commissioners, and J. H.
Patterson who had been defeated was appointed register of
deeds, and J. H. Courtney, who had also been defeated, was
appointed treasurer.
Two Recent Cold Snaps. On the night of February
7, 1895, there was a dangerous fire on Pack Square, Ashe
ville, threatening for awhile the entire southeastern section of
the city. The thermometer was seven degrees below zero.
On the morning of February 13, 1899, the thermometer was
133^2 below zero at Asheville.
Mount Mitchell.6 In 1835 Prof. Elisha Mitchell made
the first barometrical measurements of our mountains, and
his report was the first authoritative announcement of the
superior altitude of the highest southern summit to that of
Mount Washington in New Hampshire. In 1844 he and
Gen. T. L. Clingman took observations in the Balsam, Smoky
and Black mountains, and Gen. Clingman subsequently pub
lished a statement to the effect that he had found a higher
peak in the Blacks than the one measured by Dr. Mitchell.
"It was admitted that Gen. Clingman had measured the high
est point, the only question being whether that peak was the
same as that previously measured by Dr. Mitchell."
Discoverers Dispute. To settle the matter Dr. Mitchell
ran a series of levels from the terminus of the railroad near
Morganton to the half-way house built by Mr. William Patton
of Charleston, S. C, in 1856. From this place Dr. Mitchell
started alone to Big Tom Wilson's in Yancey by the route he
had followed in 1844. He intended to meet his son Charles
at an appointed place on the Blacks the following Monday,
he having left the half-way house Saturday, June 27, 1857.
His son waited and searched for him till Friday following,
when news of the professor's disappearance reached Ashe
ville, and many men set out to search for him. On the fol
lowing Tuesday Big Tom Wilson, who had been the professor's
guide in 1844, discovered his trail and found the body in a
pool of water at the foot of a waterfall, since called Mitchell's
creek and Mitchell':-; fall. The body was taken across the
top of the Blacks to Asheville and there interred in the Pres-

298 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
byterian church yard; but a year later it was taken back to
the Peak and buried there. 1 s
The Merits of the Controversy. Dr. Arnold Guyot
of Princeton College, in an article published in the Asheville
News, July 18, 1860: "The statements Dr. Mitchell made, at
different times, of the results of his measurements failed to
agree with each other, and, owing to unfavorable circum
stances and the want of proper instruments, the precise loca
tion of the points measured, especially of the highest, had
remained quite indefinite, even in the mind of Dr. Mitchell
himself, as I learned it from his own mouth in 1856. ... I
may, perhaps, be permitted to express it as my candid opinion
(without wishing in the least to revive a controversy happily
terminated) that if the honored name of Dr. Mitchell is taken
from Mount Mitchell and transferred to the highest peak, it
should not be on the ground that he first made known its
true elevation, which he never did, nor himself ever claimed
to have done; for the true height was not known before my
measurement of 1854, and the coincidence made out quite
recently may be shown, from abundant proofs furnished by
himself, to be a mere accident. Nor should it be on the ground
of his having first visited it; for, though, after his death, evi
dence which made it probable that he did [came out,] he never
could convince himself of it. Nor, at last, should it be because
that peak was, as it is alleged, thus named long before; for I
must declare that neither in 1854, nor later, during the whole
time I was on both sides of the mountain, did I hear of another
Mount Mitchell than the one south of the highest, so long
visited under that name; and that Dr. Mitchell himself, before
ascending the northern peak, in 1856, as I gathered it from a
conversation with him, believed it to be the highest. Dr.
Mitchell has higher and better claims, which are universally and
cheerfully acknowledged by all, to be forever remembered
in connection with the Black Mountain. . . . From these
facts it is evident that the honorable senator [T. L. Clingman]
could not possibly know when he first ascended it
that anyone had visited or measured it before him, nor have
any intention to do any injustice to Dr. Mitchell. . . •.
As to the highest group in the Great Smoky Mountains, how
ever, I must remark that, in the whole valley of the Tucka
seegee and Oconaluftee, I heard of but one name applied to the

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 299

highest point, and it is that of Mount Clingman. The great
est authority around the peak, Robert Collins, Esq., knows
of no other. . . . Gen. Clingman was the leader of a party
which made, in 1858, the first measurement, and the party
was composed, besides himself, of Mr. S. P. Buckley and Dr.
S. L. Love. He caused Mr. Collins to cut a path six miles to
the top, which enabled me to carry there the first horse .
ever seen on these heights. . . . The central or highest peak
is therefore designated as Clingman's Dome, the south peak,
the next in height, as Mount Buckley, the north peak as
Mount Love."
The Monument. The monument to Professor Elisha
Mitchell, on the crest of the highest peak east of the Rocky
mountains, was completed August 18, 1888. It is bolted to the
bed-rock itself, is of white bronze — an almost pure zinc —
treated under the sandblast to impart a granular appear
ance, cause it to resemble granite, and prevent discoloration;
and was made by the Monumental Bronze Company, of
Bridgeport, Conn. It was erected by Mrs. E. N. Grant, a
daughter, and other members of Prof. Mitchell's family. Its
dimensions are about two and one-half feet at the base and
about twelve feet high. It is a hollow square and without any
ornamentation. Vandals have shot bullet holes in it and an
ax blade has been driven into one of its sides. Professor W.
B. Phillips, now the professor of Geology at the University
of Texas, had charge of its erection. It contains the follow
ing inscriptions:
Upon the western side, in raised letters is the single word:
" MITCHELL"
On the side toward the grave is the following:
"Erected in 1888.
"Here lies in hope of a blessed resurrection the body of Rev. Elisha
Mitchell, D.D., who, after being for 39 years a professor in the Univer
sity of North CaroUna, lost his life in the scientific exploration of this
mountain in the 64th year of his age, June 27th, 1857. "7
A Memorable Riot. During the Seymour and Blair cam
paign of 1868 a riot occurred on the public square at Asheville
in which one negro was killed and two others seriously wounded.
Trouble had been expected, and when a negro knocked a young
Mississippian down, twenty or more pistols were discharged

300 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
into the crowd of negroes, while from several store doors and
second-story windows shotguns and rifles were discharged
into the fleeing blacks. That night a drum was beaten in the
woods where now is Aston park and a crowd of negroes assem
bled there, and reports spread that they would burn the town.
Messengers were sent to surrounding towns, and by daylight
three hundred armed white men from adjoining counties
arrived. For two weeks the streets were patrolled at night.
Oscar Eastman, in charge of the Freedman's Bureau, had an
office in the Thomas building on the southwest corner of the
square; but after the riot Eastman could not be found for
several days, as it was thought he had incited the negroes to
arm themselves with stout hickory sticks and shout for Grant
and Colfax, the immediate casus belli. Giles McDowell, a
large, bushy-headed negro and a Democrat, came up South
Main street and shouted "Hurrah for Seymour and Blair,"
whereupon the other negroes made a rush for him, during
which the young Mississippian was knocked down. Giles
fled; but another darky by the name of Jim Greenlee fell on his
face at the first shot, groaning and hollering. After the shoot
ing was over it developed that Jim was unhurt, but had wisely
pretended to be hurt in order to keep anyone from firing at
him. In 1874, Eastman, who had made himself very obnox
ious, was indicted in Buncombe Superior court twenty-five times
for retailing whiskey and once for gambling. At the Spring
Term of 1869 George H. Bell, William Blair, Erwin Hardy,
Gaston McDowell, Ben. Young, Natt Atkinson, J. M. Alex
ander, J. W. Shartle, E. H. Merrimon, Henry Patton, Simon
Henry, Robert Patton, John Lang and Armistead Dudley,
pleaded guilty to the charge of riot, and were taxed with the
costs. A Backwoods Abelard and Eloise. The tomb of the
Priest Abelard and his sweetheart Eloise, in Paris, is visited
by greater numbers than that of Napoleon. But the grave of
poor, ignorant and deluded Delilah Baird near Valle Crucis
is neglected and unknown. Yet she as truly as Eloise gave
her life for love; for although she knew that John Holsclaw
was a married man, she thought he was taking her to Kentucky
when as a child of fifteen she followed him to the Big Bottoms
of Elk in the spring of 1826, where she lived a life of faithful
ness and devotion to her lover and their son and daughter, and

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 301
died constant and true to her role as his widow in God's sight,
if not in that of man's. Having sold her land the poor re
pressed, stinted creature indulged in gay dressing in her later
years, which caused some of her relatives to fear that she was
not competent to manage her money matters; but a com
mission of which Smith Coffey was a member, found that she
was. (Deed Books R., p. 574, and A., p. 498.) In 1881-82
she wrote to a childhood friend, not a former sweetheart,
Ben Dyer, at Grapevine, Texas, to come and protect her
interests and she would give him a home. He came, but
was not satisfied, and on May 26, 1882, sued her for his trav
eling expenses and the worth of his time; but recovered only
$47.50, the price of a ticket to Texas. (Judgment Roll and
Docket A., p. 172, Watauga county; See Chapter 13, "Loch-
invar Redux.")
Nimrod S. Jarrett. In the early fall of 1873 Bayliss Hen
derson, a desperado from Tennessee, wandering about, heard
that Col. N. S. Jarrett would leave his home at the Apple
Tree place on the Nantahala river, six miles above Nantahala
station on the Western North Carolina Railroad, and the same
distance below Aquone, where his daughter, Mrs. Alexander
P. Munday, and her husband lived. Henderson had been
told that Jarrett would carry a large sum of money with him
as he had to go to Franklin to settle as guardian for wards who
had become of age. On a bright Sunday morning he was to
start alone, as Henderson had been told, and on that morning
he did start and alone. Half a mile below the home where
Micajah Lunsford used to live he overtook Henderson, who
was strolling idly along the road. Henderson walked a short
distance by Jarrett's horse, but falling back a pace drew his
pistol and shot the Colonel in the back of the head at the
base of the brain. He took his watch and chain and the little
money he had in his pocket, and hearing some one coming he
waded across the Nantahala river and watched. The person
he had heard was Mrs. Jarrett, the dead man's wife, a cripple,
who had ridden rapidly in order to overtake her husband and
ride with him to Aquone where she was to have stayed till he
returned from Franklin. She went on and told Micajah
Lunsford and a crowd soon gathered about the body. The
footprints of a man near the body were measured, but before
the body was removed Henderson came upon the scene. It

302 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
was noticed that the heels of his shoes were missing, but that
in other respects his shoes made a print exactly like those
which had been there before his arrival. He was arrested
and taken to Franklin. The trial was removed to Jackson
county, where he was convicted and hanged, the Supreme court
refusing a new trial. (68 N. C.) While Henderson was in
Macon jail he sent a man named Holland to a certain tree
near the scene of the murder, where he found the watch, chain
and money. Later on Henderson escaped and went back to
the place where he had lived before the murder, but was found
hiding in a brush-heap soon afterwards and returned to prison.
Col. Jarrett was 73 years old.
A Forgotten Crime. In the spring of 1855 the home of
Col. Nimrod S. Jarrett at Aquone, Macon county, was burned
in the day time, and one of his children, a little girl, perished
in the flames, though her mother had gone into the burning
dwelling in the effort to find and rescue her, and had been
dragged out by force. About 1898 a man named Bill Dills
died on the head of Wusser creek, and confessed that he had
set fire to the house in order to prevent suspicion falling on
him for having stolen several small sums of money, his idea
being that their loss when discovered, would be attributed to
the fire.
Quaking Bald. "The most famous of the restless moun
tains of North Carolina is 'Shaking Bald.'" The first shock,
which occurred February 10, 1874, was foUowed in quick
succession by others and caused general alarm in the vicinity.
This mountain for a time received national attention. Within
six months more than one hundred shocks were felt.
The general facts of these terrestrial disturbances have
never been disputed, but concerning their cause, there has
been widely diversified speculation. Is there an upheaval or
subsidence of the mountains gradually going on? Are they
the effect of explosions caused by the chemical action of min
erals under the influence of electric currents ? Are they the
effect of gases forced through fissures in the rocks from the
center of the earth, seeking an outlet at the surface? These are
questions on which scientists differ. Be the cause what it may,
there is no occasion to fear the eruption of an active volcano.
"The famous Bald mountain forms the north wall of the
valley. Its sterile face is distinctly visible from the porch

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 303
of the Logan hotel. Caves similar to Bat cave are high on its
front. In 1874 Bald mountain pushed itself into prominence
by shaking its eastern end with an earthquake-like rumble,
that rattled plates on pantry shelves in the cabins of the val
leys, shook windows to pieces in their sashes, and even star
tled the quiet inhabitants of Rutherfordton, seventeen miles
away. Since then rumblings have occasionally been heard,
and some people say they have seen smoke rising in the atmos
phere. There is an idea, wide-spread, that the mountain is
an extinct volcano. As evidence of a crater, they point to a
fissure about half a mile long, six feet wide in some places, and
of unmeasured depth. This fissure, bordered with trees,
extends across the eastern end of the peak. But the crater
idea is effectually choked up by the fact that the crack is of
recent appearance. The crack widens every year and, as it
widens, stones are dislodged from the mountain steeps. Their
thundering falls from the heights may explain the rumbling,
and their clouds of dust account for what appears to be smoke.
The widening of the crack is possibly due to the gradual up
heaval of the mountain. " 8
Trial of Thomas W. Strange. On the 27th day of April,
1876, Thomas W. Strange was acquitted in Asheville for the
murder on the 19th of August, 1875, of James A. Murray of
Haywood county before Judge Samuel Watts and the follow
ing jurors: W. P. Bassett, J. L. Weaver, John H. Murphy,
Owen Smith, W. W. McDowell, B. F. Young, John Chesbrough,
G. W. Whitson, S. M. Banks, W. A. Weddin, and P. F. Pat
ton. W. L. Tate of Waynesville was the solicitor. There
was much feeling in Haywood and Buncombe counties because
of this acquittal. During his confinement in jail Preston L.
Bridgers, his friend, voluntarily stayed with Thomas Strange.
The court was held in the chapel of the Asheville Female
College, now the high school. Judge Watts was from the
eastern part of the State and was nick-named "Greasy Sam."
"Big Tom" Wilson. Thomas D. Wilson, commonly known
as "Big Tom," on account of his great size, was born Decem
ber 1, 1825, on Toe river, near the mouth of Crabtree creek,
in the Deyton Bend. The "D" in his name was solely for
euphony. He married Niagara Ray, daughter of Amos L.
Ray, and settled at the Green Ponds, afterwards known as the
Murchison boundary. The place was so called because of

304 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
several pools or ponds in Cane river, on the rock bottom of
which a green moss grows. He died at a great age a few
years ago. He was a great woodsman, hunter and trapper —
a typical frontiersman, picturesque in appearance and original
in speech and manner. He is said to have killed over one
hundred bears during his life. His knowledge of woodcraft
enabled him to discover Prof. Mitchell's trail, resulting in the
recovery of his body, when the scientist lost his life on Black
mountain in the summer of 1857. J 3
Lewis Redmond, Outlaw. He was part Indian, and was
born and reared in Transylvania county, having "hawk-like
eyes and raven-black hair." When fifteen years of age he
was taken into the family of "Uncle Wash Galloway," a
pioneer farmer of the county, and after he was grown and had
left his home at Galloway's, he began "moonshining." War
rants were issued for his arrest, but the deputy United States
marshals were afraid to arrest him. Marshal R. M. Doug
lass, however, deputized Alfred F. Duckworth a member of
a large and influential family of Transylvania county. Red
mond had sworn he would not be arrested, but young Duck
worth went after him notwithstanding. Another deputy by
the name of Lankford accompanied him. They came up
with Redmond in the neighborhood of the East Fork, March
1, 1876. Redmond and his brother-in-law Ladd were driving
a wagon. Duckworth told Redmond to stop, as he had a
warrant for his arrest. Redmond stopped the wagon, and
asked to hear the warrant read. Duckworth dismounted
from his horse and began reading the warrant, but holding
his pistol in one of his hands while he did so. Redmond said,
"All right, put up your pistol, Alf, I will go along with you."
While Duckworth was putting his pistol in his pocket, Ladd
passed a pistol to Duckworth, and before "a man standing
near by could speak, " Redmond put the pistol to Duckworth's
throat and fired. Then he and Ladd jumped from the wagon
and ran. Duckworth followed them a dozen or more steps,
firing his pistol as he ran; but fell in the road from the shock
of his wound. He died soon after being taken to his home,
and Redmond escaped. Redmond was caught later in South
Carolina for some offence committed there, but escaped. 9
Later on he was captured in Swain county at or near Maple
Springs, five miles above Almond. He was living in a house

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 305
which commanded a view of the only approach to it, a canoe
landing and trail leading from it. A posse crossed in the night
and were in hiding near-by when daylight came. Redmond
left the house and went in the upper part of the clearing with
a gun to shoot a squirrel. One of the posse ordered him to
surrender. Redmond whirled to shoot at him, when another
of the posse fired on him from another quarter, filling his
back with buckshot, disabling but not killing him. He was
taken to Bryson City, and while recuperating from his wounds
received a visit from his wife. She managed to give him a
pistol secretly which Redmond concealed under his pillow.
A girl living in the house found it out, and told Judge Jeter
C. Pritchard, who was one of the men guarding him at that
time. He told his companions, and it was agreed that he
should disarm him. This was done, warning having first
been given Redmond that if he moved he would be killed.
"Redmond served a term in the United States prison at Albany
N. Y., and after being released moved to South Carolina, where,
I am informed, he killed another man, an officer, and was
again sent to prison." 9 During the term of Gov. Wade Hamp
ton a long petition, extensively signed by many ladies of
South CaroUna, was presented to the governor for his pardon.
He called himself a "Major," and claimed to be dying of
tuberculosis. The pardon was granted in 1878, and Red
mond has given no trouble since. He was never tried for
killing Duckworth. 1 °
Escape of Ray and Anderson. In the summer of 1885
several prisoners escaped from the county jail on Valley street
in Asheville. They were J. P. Sluder, charged with the mur
der of L. C. Sluder; C. M. York, also charged with another
murder; and E. W. Ray and W. A. Anderson of Mitchell
county, who had been convicted in Caldwell county — Ander
son of murder and Ray of manslaughter, for the killing of
three men in a struggle for the possession of a mica mine in
Mitchell county. The last two men were members of prom
inent families. On the night of July 3, 1885, these men with
an ax broke a hole in the brick wall of the jail, and escaped.
They had forced the sheriff, the late J. R. Rich, and J. D.
Henderson, the jailor, into the cage in which the prisoners
were confined, when they were tied and gagged. The military
company was called out to recapture the prisoners, but with-
w. n. a— 20

306 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
out result. Proceedings were instituted against Rich and
Henderson for suffering these escapes, but both were acquitted
in January, 1886.
Phenomena Noted and Explained. In his "Speeches
and Writings" (Raleigh, .1877), Gen. Thomas L. Clingman
has described and explained many phenomena, among which
was the meteor of 1860 (p. 53), which was originally pubUshed
in Appleton's Journal, January 7, 1871; the falling of several
destructive water-spouts in Macon and Jackson counties
(p. 68) on the 15th of June, 1876; and what he terms "low
volcanic action" in the mountains of Haywood, at the head
of Fines creek, which he visited in 1848 and 1851, and which
had caused "cracks in the solid granite . . . chasms,
none of them above four feet in width, generally extending
north and south" where large trees had been thrown down,
hillocks on which saplings grew obliquely to the horizon,
showing they had attained some size before the hillocks were
elevated. He again visited this place in 1867, when he saw
evidences of further disturbances, a large "oak tree of great
age and four or five feet in diameter having been split open
from root to top and thrown down so that the two halves lay
several feet apart" (p. 78 et seq.). This was first published
in the National Intelligencer of November 15, 1848.
A Crime Necessitating Legislation. It was on the Cher
okee county boundary line that on the 11th day of July, 1892,
William Hall shot and killed Andrew Bryson. He stood on
the North Carolina side of the boundary line between the two
States and, shooting across that line, killed Bryson while he
was in Tennessee. William Hall and John Dickey were tried
with Hall as accessories before the fact, and all were convicted
of murder at the spring term of the Superior court of Cherokee
county in 1893. But the Supreme court granted a new trial
at the February term of 1894 1 * on the ground that Hall could
not be guilty of homicide in Tennessee. This decision was
immediately followed by efforts on the part of the State of
Tennessee to extradite the defendants under the act of Con
gress, but the Supreme court of North Carolina held on habeas
corpus proceedings12 that no one can be alleged to have fled
from the justice of a State in whose domain he has never been
corporeally present since the commission of the crime. The
prisoners were discharged and have never been tried again in

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 307
North Carolina. These decisions were followed by remedial
legislation embodied in the Acts of 1895, Chapter 169, making
similar homicides crimes in North Carolina as well as in Ten
nessee. The Emma Burglary. Following are the facts of a sensa
tional burglary which occurred in Buncombe county Febru
ary 8, 1901, as taken from the case of the State v. Foster, 129
N. C. Reports, p. 704:
"Indictment against Ben Foster, R. S. Gates, Harry Mills and Frank
Johnston, heard by Judge Frederick Moore and a jury, at June (Special)
Term, 1901, of the Superior Court of Buncombe County. From a ver
dict of guilty and judgment thereon, the defendants appealed.
"The facts are substantially as follows :
"D. J. McClelland was the owner of a store at a place called 'Emma',
a few miles from the city of Asheville, in the county of Buncombe.
Samuel H. Alexander is his clerk, and had been for more than three
years boarding in the family of McClelland and sleeping in the store.
There was a room in said store building fitted up and furnished with a
bed and other furniture as a sleeping apartment, in which said Alexander
kept his trunk and other belongings, and slept there, and had done so
regularly for three years or more. On the night of the 8th of February,
1901, he closed and fastened all the windows and outer doors of said
store building, and between eight and nine o'clock he went into his bed
room, but, thinking some customer might come, and not being ready to
retire, he left a lamp burning in the store-room. There was a partition
wall between his sleeping-room and the store-room, in which there was
a doorway and a shutter, but the shutter was rarely ever closed and was
not closed that night. Soon after he went into his sleeping room, he
heard a noise at one of the outer doors of the store building, and, think
ing it was some one wanting to trade, he went to the door and asked
who was there. Some one answered 'We want to come in; we want some
coffee and flour.' He then took down the bar used in securing the door,
unlocked the same, and when he had opened the door about twelve
inches, still having the knob in his hand, two men forced the door open,
rushed in the house, covered him with pistols, told him to hold up his
hands, that they had come for business. With the pistols still drawn
upon him, they marched him into his bed-room, where they searched
him and the things he had in his room, taking his pistol and other things.
They then carried him into the store-room and made an effort to break
into the postoffice department, there being a postoffice kept there. But
not succeeding readily in getting into this, they abandoned it for the
present, saying they supposed there was nothing in it, except postage
stamps, and they would attend to them later. They then turned their
attention to an iron safe and compelled him to assist in opening it, one
of them still holding his pistol on him. After the safe was open and
one of them going through it, taking what money and other valuables
he found, a cat made a noise in the back part of the store, and the man

308 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
with the pistol bearing on him turned his attention to that; and, as he
did so, Alexander seized his own pistol they had taken from his room
and which the man who was robbing the safe had laid on the end of the
counter, and shot the man robbing the safe, and also shot the other man,
but, in the meantime, the man whose attention had been attracted by
the cat shot Alexander. They were all badly shot, but none of them
died." This testimony was that of Alexander alone, neither prisoner
going on the stand. Henry Mills and R. S. Gates, indicted
as being present, aiding and abetting, were tried with Ben
Foster and Frank Johnston, charged as principals. All were
convicted of burglary in the first degree. The judgment was
sustained and Ben Foster and Frank Johnston were hanged
at Asheville, the governor having commuted the sentence of
the two others to life imprisonment in the penitentiary.
Nancy Hanks Tradition. For a hundred years a tradi
tion has persisted in these mountains to the effect that between
1803 and 1808 Abraham Enloe came from Rutherford county
and settled, first on Soco creek, and afterwards on Ocona
Lufty, about seven miles from Whittier, in what is now
Swain county; that he brought with his family a girl whose
name was Nancy Hanks; that this girl lived in Enloe's family
till after his daughter Nancy ran away with and married a
man named Thompson, from Hardin county, Ky. An inti
macy had grown up between Nancy Hanks and Abraham
Enloe, and a son was born to her, which caused Enloe's wife,
whose maiden name had been Edgerton, to suspect that her
husband was the father of Nancy's child. Soon after the
birth of this child, the tradition relates, Mrs. Nancy Thomp
son came to visit her parents and on her return to Kentucky
or Tennessee took Nancy Hanks and her son with her, much
to Mrs. Enloe's relief. Abraham Enloe is said to have been
a large, tall, dark man, a horse and slave trader, J 4 a justice
of the peace and the leading man in his community. Thus
far the tradition as given above is supported by such repu
table citizens as the following, most of whom are now dead:
Col. Allen T. Davidson, whose sister Celia married into the
Enloe family, Captain James W. Terrell, the late Epp Ever
ett of Bryson City, Phillip Dills of DiUsborough, Abraham
Battle of Haywood, Wm. H. Conley of Haywood, Judge Gil-
more of Fort Worth, Texas, H. J. Beck of Ocona Lufty, D. K.

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 309
Collins of Bryson City, Col. W. H. Thomas and the late John
D. Mingus, son-in-law of Abraham Enloe.
Abraham Lincoln Tells of His Parentage. That the
child so born to Nancy Hanks on Ocona Lufty was Abraham
Lincoln is supported by the alleged statements that in the
fall of 1861 a young man named Davis, of Rutherford, had,
during the fifties, settled near Springfield, 111., where he
became intimate with Abraham Lincoln and "in a private and
confidential talk which he had with Mr. Lincoln, the latter
told him that he was of Southern extraction; that his right
name was, or ought to have been, Enloe, but that he had
always gone by the name of his step-father. " x 4 After the
Civil War a man representing himself as a son of Mrs. Nancy
Thompson, a daughter of Abraham Enloe of Ocona Lufty,
called on the late Col. Allen T. Davidson, a lawyer, in his
office in Asheville, and told him that President Lincoln had
appointed him Indian agent or to some other office in the
Indian service "because he (Lincoln) was under some great
obligation to Thompson's mother, and desired to aid her,
and at her request he made her son Indian agent."15 Col.
Davidson as a lawyer had settled the Abraham Enloe estate,
had heard of this tradition all his life and had no doubt as to
its truth. There is another version to the effect that the
child Abraham was not born till after his mother had reached
Kentucky and also that Felix Walker, then congressman from
the mountain district, aided Nancy Hanks in getting to Ten
nessee, where Thompson lived.
"Truth is Stranger than Fiction." The above facts
or statements have been taken from a small book of the name
given, by James H. Cathey, once a member of the North
Carolina legislature, and a resident of Jackson county. It
was published in 1899. The various statements upon which
the tradition was based are set forth in detail, accompanied
by short biographies of each person named. No one can
read these accounts without being impressed with their air
of truthfulness.
Evidence Sustaining the Enloe Parentage. The late
Captain James W. Terrell refers to an article in Bledsoe's Re
view "in which the writer gives an account of a difficulty
between Mr. Lincoln's reputed father and a man named
Enloe" (p. 47) and states, as one of the reasons for sending

310 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA

Nancy Hanks to Kentucky, the fact that at that time some
of the Enloe kindred were Uving there (p. 49). On page
54, a Judge Gilmore, living then within three miles of Fort
Worth, Texas, told Joseph A. Collins of Clyde, Haywood
county, North Carolina, that he knew Nancy Hanks before
she was married, and that she then had a child she called
Abraham; that she afterwards married a man by the name
of Lincoln, a whiskey distiller, and very poor, and that they
lived in a small house. 1 6 Col. T. G. C. Davis of St.
Louis, Mo., a native of Kentucky, a cousin of President
Jefferson Davis, a lawyer who once practiced law with Mr.
Lincoln in Illinois, is quoted as saying that he knew the mother
of Lincoln; that he was raised in the same neighborhood; and
that it was generally understood, without question, in that
neighborhood, that Lincoln, the man that married the Pres
ident's mother, was not the father of the President, but that
his father's name was Enloe" (p. 78). The foregoing are the
most important facts alleged; but there is one statement, on
page 55, to the effect that a man named Wells visited the
Enloe home while Nancy Hanks was there and witnessed a
disagreement or coolness between Enloe and his wife on her
account. This man said he had gone there while selling tin
ware and buying furs, feathers and ginseng for William John
ston of Waynesville. This could not have been true, as Wil
liam Johnston did not emigrate from Ireland to Charleston
till 1818. Soon after the appearance of this book the writer
visited Wesley Enloe at his home on Ocona Lufty for the pur
pose of learning what he could of his connection with Abraham
Lincoln; but, like the correspondent of the Charlotte Observer
of September 17, 1893 (quoted on pages 63 et seq.), I did not
observe any likeness between him and the pictures of Mr.
Lincoln which I had seen, as Mr. Enloe was blue-eyed and
florid. He also stated to me that he had never heard his
father's name mentioned in his family in connection with
Abraham Lincoln's, just as he stated to that correspondent,
on page 70.
Clark W. Thompson. Col. Davidson was a man of such
unquestioned integrity that any statement from him is worthy
of belief; and in the interest of truth a letter was written to
the Commissioner of Indian Affairs, Washington, on March
8, 1913, asking "whether a man named Thompson was ever

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 31 1
appointed by President Lincoln to some position in the Indian
Service," and on the 25th of the same month, Hon. F. H.
Abbott, acting commissioner, wrote as follows : ". . . You
are advised that the records show that Clark W. Thompson,
of Minnesota, was nominated by President Lincoln to be Su
perintendent of Indian Affairs for the northern supermtendency
on March 26, 1861, and his appointment was confirmed by
the Senate on the following day. There is nothing in the rec
ord to show reasons influencing this appointment. . . . "
Of course this does not prove that Clark W. Thompson was a
son of Mrs. Nancy Enloe Thompson, and is merely given for
what it may be worth. In "The Child That Toileth Not,"
Major Dawley, its author, says (p. 271) : "Where Mingus creek
joins Ocona. Lufty, in a broad bottom, is an old, partially
demolished log-house, used as a barn, in which tradition says
that Nancy Hanks, the mother of Lincoln, served as a house
girl," etc.
The Nancy Hanks History. As opposed to this tradi
tional evidence we have the voluminous history of Nickolay
and Hay, Mr. Lincoln's secretaries, called "Abraham Lin
coln," in which the fact that the immortal President's mother
was married to Thomas Lincoln June 12, 1806, by Rev. Jesse
Head, at Beechland, near EUzabethton, Washington county,
Ky., and a copy of his marriage bond for fifty pounds, as was
then required by the laws of Kentucky, is set forth in full, with
Richard Barry as surety. In addition to this, there was
published by Doubleday & McClure Co., New York, in 1899,
by Carolina Hanks Hitchcock, "Nancy Hanks, the Story of
Abraham Lincoln's Mother," giving in detail the facts of her
birth in Virginia, her removal to Kentucky with her family,
and her marriage to Thomas Lincoln on the date above given,
and many other facts which, it would seem, place this date
beyond all doubt. Col. Henry Watterson, in an address,
presenting the Speed statue of Lincoln to the State of Ken
tucky and the Nation, November 8, 1911, said: "Let me
speak with some particularity and the authority of fact,
tardily but conclusively ascertained, touching the .
maternity of Abraham Lincoln. Few passages of history
have been so greatly misrepresented and misconceived.
Some confusion was made by his own mistake as to the
marriage of his father and mother, which had not been

312 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
celebrated in Hardin county, but in Washington county,
Kentucky, the absence of any marriage papers in the old court
house at EUzabethton, the county seat of Hardin county,
leading to the notion that there had never been any marriage
at all. It is easy to conceive that such a discrepancy might
give occasion for any amount and all sorts of partisan falsifi
cation, the distorted stories winning popular belief among the
credulous and inflamed. Lincoln himself died without surely
knowing that he was born in honest wedlock and came from
an ancestry upon both sides of which he had no reason to be
ashamed. For a long time a cloud hung over the name of
Nancy Hanks, the mother of Abraham Lincoln. Persistent
and intelligent research has brought about a vindication in
every way complete. It has been clearly established that
as the ward of a decent family she lived a happy and indus
trious girl until she was twenty-three years of age, when
Thomas Lincoln, who had learned his carpenter's trade of
one of her uncles, married her, June 12, 1806. The entire
record is in existence and intact. The marriage bond to the
amount of 50 pounds . . . was duly recorded seven
days before the wedding, which was solemnized as became
well-to-do folk in those days. The uncle and aunt gave an
'infare', to which the neighboring countryside was invited.
Dr. Christopher Columbus Graham, one of the best known
and most highly respected of Kentuckians, before his death
in 1885, wrote at my request his remembrances of that festi
val and testified to this before a notary public in the ninety-
sixth year of his age." (The affidavit is set forth in full.) 17
Why the Tradition Persists. After reading the foregoing
article, a feeling of indignation naturally arises that anyone
should longer doubt or discuss the legitimacy of the Great
Emancipator, and it was that feeling which led to an exami
nation of the "authority of fact tardily but conclusively ascer
tained touching the maternity of Abraham Lincoln." Nat
urally, too, the story was ascribed to "partisan falsification."
Nicolay and Hay's account seemed to fix the date of the mar
riage as in June, 1806, since the marriage bond is dated on
June 10th; and Miss Tarbell has settled the exact date as of
June 12th of that year. So far, so good. But Miss Tarbell
states (Vol. I, 7) that Mrs. Caroline Hanks Hitchcock had
compiled the genealogy of the Hanks family, which, "though

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 313
not yet printed, has fortunately cleared up the mystery of
her birth. " This little book, now out of print, 1 8 was obtained
after great trouble, and what was found? That instead of
clearing up the mystery of Nancy Hanks' birth, Mrs. Hitch
cock has only made confusion worse confounded. In fact,
she shows that Thomas Lincoln married an altogether differ
ent Nancy Hanks from the one the President remembered,
the one Dennis Hanks knew, and the one Herndon has so
particularly described in his carefully prepared work on the
origin of Abraham Lincoln. She also discredits every sub
sequent statement by trying to show that Thomas Lincoln
was not "the shiftless character" he has been represented as
being (p. 54). After that, one naturally looks with suspi
cion upon every statement of fact in the Uttle volume.
The Lineage of Lincoln 's Real Mother. Almost imme
diately after the death of Mr. Lincoln his former law partner,
Wm. H. Herndon, Esq., set out to interview every member
of the Lincoln and Hanks families then living. He kept up
this investigation for years. What did Abraham Lincoln
himself have to say as to who his mother was? Herndon says
(p. 3) that in 1850, while they were in a buggy together, going
to Menard county court, Lincoln told him that his mother
"was the daughter of Lucy Hanks and a well-bred but obscure
Virginia farmer." Who that farmer was is not stated; but
Lucy Hanks, after the birth of Nancy, married a man named
Henry Sparrow, and Nicolay and Hay say that Nancy Hanks
was sometimes called Nancy Sparrow (Vol. I, p. 7). Hern
don also says with exactness (p. 10) that "Nancy Hanks, the
mother of the President, at a very early age, was taken from
her mother Lucy — afterwards married to Henry Sparrow —
and sent to live with her aunt and uncle, Thomas and Betsy
Sparrow. Under this same roof the irrepressible and cheer
ful waif, Dennis Hanks, . . . also found shelter. " Now
who was Dennis Hanks? He was the illegitimate son of
Nancy Hanks and Friend. Which Nancy Hanks was this?
The sister of Lucy Hanks (p. 10). Miss Tarbell calls him
Dennis Friend (pp. 14 and 25) and says misfortune had
made him an inmate of Thomas Lincoln's Indiana home.
The Lineage of Mrs. Hitchcock's Nancy Hanks. Her
father was Joseph Hanks and her mother Nancy Shipley, and
was born February 5, 1784, (p. 25) and came with her parents

314 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
from Virginia to Kentucky about 1789, and settled near EUza
bethton in what is now Nelson county (p. 40). Her father died
January 9, 1793, and his will was probated May 14, 1793, by
which her brother Joseph got all her parents' land and she
herself got a pied heifer, although there were eight children —
Joseph Hanks, Sr.'s widow and his son William being executors
(pp. 43-45). Miss Tarbell adopts the same lineage for her
Nancy (p. 8), and they both place this Nancy in the home of
Lucy Shipley, wife of Richard Berry, when Nancy was nine
years old.
Physical Characteristics of Lincoln's Real Mother.
Herndon says (p. 10) that "at the time of her marriage to
Thomas Lincoln, Nancy was in her 23d year. She was
above the ordinary height in stature, weighed about 130
pounds, was slenderly built, and had much the appearance
of one inclined to consumption. Her skin was dark; hair dark
brown; eyes gray and small; forehead prominent; face sharp
and angular, with a marked expression of melancholy which
fixed itself in the memory of everyone who ever saw or knew
her. ..."
Physical Features of Mrs. Hitchcock's Nancy. "Bright,
scintillating, noted for her keen wit and repartee, she had
withal a loving heart," is Mrs. Hitchcock's (p. 51) notion
of Nancy Hanks' manner. "Traditions of Nancy Hanks'
appearance at this time [of her marriage] all agree in calling
her a beautiful girl. She is said to have been of medium
height, weighing about 130 pounds (p. 59), light hair, beauti
ful eyes, a sweet, sensitive mouth, and a kindly and gentle
manner." In another place (p. 73) she says that when Nancy
Hanks went to her cousins', Frank and Ned Berry, the legend
is that "her cheerful disposition and active habits were a
dower to those pioneers." Frank and Ned were sons of
Richard Berry.
Herndon 's Thomas Lincoln. "Thomas was roving and
shiftless. ... He was proverbially slow of movement,
mentally and physically; was careless, inert and dull. He
had a liking for jokes and stories. ... At the time of his
marriage to Nancy Hanks he could neither read nor write
(p. 8). . . . He was a carpenter by trade, and essayed
farming, too; but in this, as in almost every other undertaking,
he was singularly unsuccessful. He was placed in possession

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 315
of several tracts of land at different times in his life, but was
never able to pay for a single one of them" (p. 9). He
hunted for game only when driven to do so by hunger (p. 29).
Mrs. Hitchcock's Thomas Lincoln. "Thomas Lincoln
had been forced to shift for himself in a young and undevel
oped country (p. 56). He had no bad habits, was temper
ate and a church-goer" (p. 54). She quotes an affidavit of
Dr. C. C. Graham to the effect that he was present at the
marriage of Thomas Lincoln, but he says nothing more of
him, except that he had one feather bed, and when the doctor
was there, Thomas and his wife slept on the floor. This same
Dr. Graham is quoted as saying that it is untrue that Thomas
kept his family in a doorless and windowless house. But
Miss Tarbell (p. 19) and Herndon (p. 18) say that Thomas
Lincoln kept his family in a "half-face camp" for a year,
and that after the cabin was built it had but one room and a
loft, with no window, door or floor; not even the traditional
deer-skin hung before the exit; there was no oiled paper over
the opening for light; there was no puncheon floor on the
ground . . . and there were few families, even in
that day who were forced to practice more make-shifts to get
a living"; and that sometimes the only food on the table was
potatoes (p. 20). And yet Mrs. Hitchcock says he was not
shiftless !
Abraham Lincoln and His Parents. Mr. Herndon says
(p. 1) that if Mr. Lincoln ever mentioned the subject of his
parents at all it was with great reluctance and with sig
nificant reserve. "There was something about his origin he
never cared to dwell upon." To a Mr. Scripps of the Chi
cago Tribune, in 1860, Mr. Lincoln communicated some facts
concerning his ancestry which he did not wish to have pub
lished then and which Scripps never revealed to anyone"
(p. 2). In the record of his family which Mr. Lincoln gave
to Jesse W. Fell, he does not even give his mother's maiden
name; but says that she came "of a family of the name of
Hanks." (Footnote on page 3). He gives but three lines to
his mother and nearly a page to the Lincolns. And "Mr.
Lincoln himself said to me in 1851 . . . that whatever
might be said of his parents and however unpromising the
early surroundings of his mother may have been, she was
highly intellectual by nature, had a strong memory, acute

316 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
judgment, and was cool and heroic" (p. 11). His school
days he never alluded to; and Herndon says he slept in the
loft of the Indiana cabin, which he reached by climbing on
pegs driven in the wall, while Miss Tarbell says that "he
slept on a heap of dry leaves in a corner of the loft" (p. 19),
while his parents reclined on a bedstead made of poles rest
ing between the logs and on a crotched stick, with skins for
the chief covering." Although in the highest office in the
land for four years before his death, Mr. Lincoln left his
mother's grave unmarked, and when his father was dying he
allowed sickness in his own family to deter him from paying
him a last visit, writing instead a letter advising him to put
his trust in God.
Herndon's Estimate of the Hankses. "As a family
the Hankses were peculiar to the civilization of early Ken
tucky. Illiterate and superstitious, they corresponded to
that nomadic class still to be met with throughout the South,
and known as 'poor whites.' They are happily and vividly
depicted in the description of a camp-meeting held at EUza
bethton, Ky., in 1806, which was furnished me in August, 1865,
by an eye-witness (J. B. Helm). 'The Hanks girls', narrates
the latter, 'were great at Camp-meetings,'" and the scene
is then described of a young man and young woman with
their clothing arranged for what was to follow, who approached
and embraced each other in front of the congregation: "When
the altar was reached the two closed, with their arms around
each other, the man singing and shouting at the top of his
voice, 'I have my Jesus in my arms, sweet as honey, strong
as baconham.' She was a Hanks, and the couple were to
be married the next week; but whether she was Nancy Hanks
or not my informant does not state; though, as she did marry
that year, gives color to the belief that she was. But the
performance described must have required a little more emo
tion and enthusiasm than the tardy and inert carpenter was
in the habit of manifesting" (p. 12).
Confirmation of the Enloe Tradition. One might
suppose that the Enloe story has no other basis than that re
corded in Mr. Cathey's book. But this is far from being the
fact, though most of the biographers of Lincoln make no
reference to the Enloes whatever. But Mr. Herndon, on
page 27, remarks of Thomas Lincoln's second wife, Sarah

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 3 1 7
Bush, that her social status is fixed by the comparison of a
neighbor who contrasted the "life among the Hankses, the
Lincolns, and the Enloes with that among the Bushes, Sarah
having married Daniel Johnston, the jailer, as her first matri
monial venture. Dr. C. C. Graham, in his hundredth year, made
a statement as to the Lincoln family, which is published in full
by McClure's in magazine form and called "The Early Life
of Abraham Lincoln, " by Ida M. Tarbell. This is dated in
1896. Herndon and all the biographers agree that, although
so old, Dr. Graham was a competent witness as to Lincoln's
early life. Indeed, all of pages 227 to 232 of this little maga
zine book are devoted to testimonials establishing his credi
bility. But, although Tarbell's Life of Lincoln is an enlarge
ment of this magazine story, and contains four large volumes,
very little of Dr. Graham's long statement, covering over
five closely printed pages, is preserved. And among the things
that have been suppressed is this: "Some said she (Nancy
Hanks, Thomas Lincoln's first wife) died of heart trouble,
from slanders about her and old Abe Enloe, called Inlow
while her Abe, named for the pioneer Abraham Linkhorn,
was still living." Neither Mrs. Hitchcock nor Miss Tarbell
seems to have attached the slightest importance to this state
ment. But that is not all. Herndon records the fact (p.
29) that when he interviewed Mrs. Sarah Bush Lincoln,
Thomas Lincoln's second wife, in September, 1865, "She de
clined to say much in answer to my questions about Nancy
Hanks, her predecessor in the Lincoln household, but spoke
feelingly of the latter's daughter and son."
Thus, it will be observed, that most of the testimony on
which the stories concerning Nancy Hanks are based do not
rest on the fabrications of his political enemies, but on the
statements and significant silence of himself, his friends, rela
tives and biographers.
The Calhoun Tradition. If anywhere in the world
Lincoln had enemies, it was in South Carolina. If anywhere
in the world a motive could exist to ruin his political fortunes,
it was among the politicians of the Palmetto State. It is
true that for years there has been an intangible rumor about
John C. Calhoun and Nancy Hanks; but the world must
perforce bear witness that such rumors have met with little
or no encouragement from the people of that State. Yet, dur-

318 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
ing all the years that have flown since early in the last century,
many men and women knew of a story which connected the
name of the Great Nullifier with that of Nancy Hanks, the
mother of Abraham Lincoln. It has lain untold all these
years; but in 1911, Mr. D. J. Knotts of Swansea, S. C, brought
it to the light of day. The reason for this delay was due to the
respect that the custodians of the secret entertained for the
wishes of the Calhoun family. For, even now, some of those
to whom the facts had been communicated by Judge Orr
and Gen. Burt, will not permit their names to be used in con
nection with the story. But the main facts seem to be well
established by other testimony, and although these articles
have been before the public since 1910, no one has as yet
attempted their refutation. Abbeville "District," as it was
called, in South Carolina, was the home of John C. Calhoun
and of Gen. Armistead Burt, who married Calhoun's niece.
They were fast friends and political supporters of State
Rights. Judge James L. Orr was born in Craytonville, S. C,
May 12, 1822, and was in Congress from 1849 to 1859,
having been speaker of the 35th Congress. He thus began
his congressional career the year after Mr. Lincoln had com
pleted his single term; but John C. Calhoun was serving then
as senator, dying March 31, 1850. Judge Orr was probably
born in the very tavern which had previously been kept by
Ann Hanks at Craytonville, as Orr's father certainly kept the
same hostelry during his life.
The Story is Told at Last. During 1911 the Columbia
State published four articles on the "Parentage of Lincoln,"
by D. J. Knotts, of Swansea, S. C. Briefly stated, his story
is to the effect that in 1807, John C. Calhoun began the prac
tice of law in Abbeville county, where he lived till his removal
to Fort Hill in 1824. Anderson county was not established
till 1828; but in 1789 Luke Hanks died and left a will, which
was probated in Abbeville county in October of that year, by
which his widow, Ann Hanks, a relative of Benjamin Harris of
Buncombe county, N. C, and John Haynie were made execu
tors. No deed can be found to land of Luke or Ann Hanks,
but there is a grant to 210 acres to her brother in 1797. How
ever, the appraisers of the property under Luke Hanks' will
valued these 210 acres at one dollar per acre, and the personal
property at $500. Just how long after Luke's death it was

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 319
that his widow, Ann Hanks, took charge of a tavern at the
cross roads, called Craytonville and Claytonville, was not
stated; but it is alleged that she kept this tavern in 1807,
and for several years thereafter. This cross-roads place is
between Anderson, Abbeville and Pendleton — all flourishing
towns at this time. At this tavern John C. Calhoun stopped
in going to and from the courts, and became involved in a
love affair with Ann Hanks' youngest child, Nancy. At this
tavern also stopped Abraham Enloe on his way South from
Ocona Lufty with negroes and stock for sale. With him
came as a hireling Thomas Lincoln, the putative father of the
President. Nancy Hanks began to be troublesome and Mr.
Calhoun is said to have induced Thomas Lincoln to take her
with him on his return with Abraham Enloe — paying him
$500 to do so. Lincoln is said to have conducted Nancy to
the home of Abraham Enloe, where she became a member of
the family. This is a confirmation of the Enloe tradition,
except that Nancy is said to have gone there from Ruther
ford county.
The Petition for Partition. Ann Hanks, who seems
to have had a life estate in the 210 acres of land, must have
died about 1838 or 1839, for we find that Luke Hanks' heirs
tried to divide the property without the aid of a lawyer, mak
ing two efforts to that end, but failing in both. In 1842,
however, an Anderson attorney straightened things out by
bringing in Nancy Hanks as the twelfth child of Luke and
Ann Hanks, and the property was divided into twelve equal
shares, it having been alleged that Nancy Hanks had left the
State and that her whereabouts were unknown. Col. John
Martin became the purchaser of this land, which is in a neigh
borhood called Ebenezer, and is within three or four miles
of the tavern at Craytonville.
Lincoln is Told of a Remarkable Resemblance. In
1849, while John C. Calhoun and Gen. Burt were attending
Congress, young James L. Orr, not yet a member, but wishing
to see the workings of that body over which he was one day
to preside, made a visit to Washington, D. C, and as he had
grown up with the Hanks family near Craytonville, he was
at once impressed with the remarkable resemblance between
those Anderson county Hankses and a raw-boned member
from the State of Illinois, by name Abraham Lincoln. He

320 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
told Lincoln of the fact, and the latter replied that his mother's
name was Nancy Hanks. Thereupon, it is stated, Orr wanted
to go into particulars, but Lincoln at once became reticent and
would not discuss the matter further. This aroused Orr's
suspicions, and on his return to Anderson he mentioned it to
the Hankses of Ebenezer, who having but recently heard
the almost forgotten story of John C. Calhoun's connection
with Nancy and her disappearance from the State early in
the century (in the partition case) related it to Judge Orr in
all its details. Gen. Burt also became possessed of the story,
but guarded his secret jealously, his wife being Calhoun's
niece. But, when Lincoln was assassinated Judge Orr, who
was a brother in-law of Mrs. Fannie Marshall, a second cousin
of John C. Calhoun, told her and her husband what he had
learned from the Anderson Hankses; and in 1866 Gen. Armi-
stead Burt, under the seal of an inviolable secrecy, told what
he knew to a group of lawyers all of whom were his friends.
So inviolably have they kept this secret that even to this day
several of them refuse to allow their names to be mentioned
in connection with it. But the Hankses also told their family
physician, Dr. W. C. Brown, the story of their kinswoman and
John C. Calhoun, and he mentioned it to others. John Hanks,
also, is said to have told Dr. Harris that Nancy Hanks had
gone to an uncle in Kentucky when her condition became
known at the Enloe farm; for it seems that a Richard Berry
has been located as buying land in Anderson county in 1803,
and as disappearing entirely from the records of Anderson
county thereafter.
Mr. Knotts introduced much other evidence, and has accu
mulated much additional testimony since, which he will
soon publish in full, giving book and page of all records and
full extracts from all documents.
Minor Matters. Mr. Knotts also states that Dr. W. C.
Brown was a brother of "Joe" Brown, the "War Governor"
of Georgia; that Mr. Herndon's first life of Lincoln contained
several statements which Lincoln had made as to his illegiti
macy; but that friends of Lincoln "had tried to recall
the volumes and failed to get a few of them in for destruction";
but that Mr. Knotts had secured a copy, from which he made
(pp. 5 and 6) the following statement : " Mr. Herndon, says Mr.
Weik, his co-laborer in the work, spent a large amount of time

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 321
and trouble hunting down this tradition in Kentucky, and finally
found a family in Bourbon county named Inlow, who stated
to him that an older relative, Abraham Inlow, a man of
wealth and influence, induced Thomas Lincoln to assume the
paternity of Abraham Lincoln, whose mother was a nice
looking woman of good family named Nancy Hanks, and that
after marriage he removed to Hardin or Washington county,
where this infant was born. " Mr. Knotts also makes the point
that there could have been no contemporaneous record of
Lincoln's birth, and that he made ' the date himself in the
family Bible, years after he became a man; that in that record
he nowhere records the fact or the date of his father's marriage
to Nancy Hanks, although he is careful to record his father's
second marriage to Sarah Bush Johnston, and his own mar
riage to Mary Todd; also that he speaks of his sister Sarah,
when she married Aaron Grigsby, as the daughter of Thomas
Lincoln alone; and when she died, he again speaks of her as
the daughter of Thomas Lincoln and wife of Aaron Grigsby,
but never mentions her as the daughter of Nancy Lincoln.
No one has ever accounted for the mutilation of the family
record made by Abraham Lincoln himself in the family Bible.
In every instance in which discredit might fall on Nancy
Hanks, the dates have been carefully obliterated in some
vital point. Surely Lincoln's political enemies did not do
this thing, the doing of which has cast more suspicion on his
legitimacy than all things else combined.
The Rutherford County Hankses. When this last
tradition was called to the writer's attention, it was
apparent that the only way to discredit it was to follow
the clue which stated that the Nancy Hanks of Abraham En
loe's household had gone there from Rutherford county.
Accordingly, diligent enquiries were instituted in the counties
of Rutherford, Lincoln and Gaston with the result that no
trace could be found of Nancy Hanks in either of them, or
elsewhere in the State. All persons who seemed to know
anything of the Hanks family referred to Mr. L. M. Hoffman
of Dallas, N. C, who wrote, June 2, 1913, to the effect that
for several years he had been working on a genealogical history
of all the families who first settled that section from whom
he is descended. Among these were a Hanks family; and
while he obtained 600 manuscript pages concerning all the
W. N. C— 21

322 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
other families from which he has descended "the want of time
and the difficulty of getting reliable information .
has caused me (him) to nearly close my (his) search. . . . "
Further correspondence resulted in discovering little more
than that there once existed a Bible of the Hanks family in
the possession of the Jenkins family; but Mr. Hoffman, who
examined and made extracts from it, found nothing of record
regarding Nancy Hanks. He then gave several discoveries
that he made, and adds: "This only illustrates how I failed
to get anything like a connected story of the Hanks family.
There are several of the Hanks family here still, but they
know almost nothing of their ancestors. . . . " When it
is remembered that there are several Hanks men in Anderson
county, S. C, who are said to resemble Abraham Lincoln in
a most striking way, it is evident that the probabilities are
largely that Nancy Hanks went to Abraham Enloe's from
South Carolina rather than from Rutherford county, N. C.
The Tennessee Tradition. On the farm of G. W. Wag
ner, formerly owned by Isaac Lincoln — a few miles from
EUzabethton and opposite the little station called Hunter —
is a tombstone on which is carved: "Sacred to the memory
of Isaac Lincoln, who departed this life June 10, 1816,
aged about 64 years." 19 In McClure's Early Life of Lincoln,
Isaac Lincoln is mentioned as one of the brothers of Abraham
Lincoln, the grandfather of the President (p. 223). Tradition
says that to this farm came Thomas Lincoln after the
death of his father in 1788 had, according to Miss Tarbell
(p. 6), turned him " adrift to become a wandering
laboring boy before he had learned to read." Tradition
also says that a Nancy Hanks at one time lived in that neigh
borhood; but that Thomas was so shiftless that his Uncle
Isaac drove him away, when Nancy disappeared also. The
lady referred to on page 73 of J. H. Cathey's book by Col.
Davidson was his sister, Miss Elvira Davidson, who was a vis
itor in the home of Felix Walker, one of whose sons she after
wards married; and it was while there, according to her state
ment to her niece, that she had seen Abraham Enloe call Felix
Walker to the gate and talk earnestly with him, and that
when Walker came back he told Mrs. Walker Abraham Enloe
had arranged with him (Walker) to have Nancy Hanks taken
to Tennessee, instead of Kentucky, when Mrs. Walker re-

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 323
marked that Mrs. Enloe would "be happy again." Mrs.
Enloe and Mrs. Walker were great friends. Elvira David
son was a young girl at this time. She first married Joseph
Walker and years afterwards was left a widow. Her second
husband was Thomas Gaston, whose descendants are in Bun
combe today.
The South Carolina Record. This record is in the
office of the Ordinary, corresponding to that of probate judge
in most States, its number is 964, and is entitled: " Valentine
Davis and wife, applicant, v. Luke Hanie and others." The
summons in relief was filed before William McGee, Ordinary
of Anderson District, S. C, December 26, 1842; it relates to
the real estate of Ann Hanks, and is recorded in real estate
book, volume 1, p. 59. The summons is to the "legal heirs
and representatives of Ann Hanks, who died intestate," and
requires the parties named therein — among whom is Nancy
Hanks — to appear on the 3d day of April, 1843, and "show
cause why the real estate of Ann Hanks, deceased, situated
in said district on waters of Rocky river, bounding Brig. R.
Haney, John Martin and others, should not be divided or sold,
allotting the same as it proceeds among you." Valentine
Davis was appointed and consented to act as the guardian
ad litem of the minor heirs named in the summons; a large
number of heirs accepted legal service of the summons; while
the Ordinary notes that he "cited" several others to appear
in court, etc. A rule was also issued December 26, 1842,
to twenty-seven of the defendants "who reside without the
State," among whom is the name of Nancy Hanks, all of
whom are required to " appear and object to the sale or division
of the real estate of Hanks on or before the third day of April
next, or their consent to the same will be entered of record."
There is also in this record an assignment to Mary Hanks by
her son James R. Hanks, of Crittenden county, Kentucky, of
his interest "in the real estate of my grandmother Ann Hanks,
which came to me by right of my father, George Hanks, which
was sold by the Court of Ordinary in Anderson District,
South Carolina, in June, 1843, which claim or claims I re
nounce to my said mother Mary during her natural life, from
me, my executors or assigns, so long as the said Mary Hanks
shall live, but at the said Mary's death to revert back me to
and my heirs, " etc.

324 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
This assignment of interest is dated April 1, 1844, and
was probated before James Cruce, justice of the peace of
Crittenden county, Ky., by William Stinson and Reuben
Bennett, subscribing witnesses, on the first of April, 1844.
The record fails to show any receipt from Nancy Hanks for
her share in the proceeds of this real estate, which would
seem to indicate that she was dead and that her heirs received
no actual notice of this proceeding. The foregoing excerpts
have been furnished by Thomas Allen, Esq., of the Anderson,
S. C, bar.
Reality of Isaac Lincoln's Residence. Of the resi
dence of Isaac Lincoln and Mary (nee Ward) his wife, in
what is now Carter county, Tenn., there can be no doubt,
the deed books of that county showing many conveyances
to and from Isaac Lincoln, one of which (B, p. 14) is indexed
as from Isaac "Linkhorn" to John Carter, which bears the
early date of March 4, 1777, and conveys 303 acres on the
north side of Doe river known by the name of the "Flag
Pond," for one hundred pounds. The deed, however, is
signed "Isaac Lincoln," not "Linkhorn"; but it was not regis
tered till July 22, 1806. Lincoln and Carter are both
described as of "Watauga" simply. Other conveyances
show that he owned several lots in what is now EUza
bethton, the county seat of Carter county (B, 18). There
is also a conveyance from Johnson Hampton, with whom
Thomas Lincoln and Nancy Hanks are said (according to a
letter from D. J. Knotts to J. D. Jenkins, 1913) to have
gone from Abraham Enloe's to Thomas Lincoln's brother's
home on Lynn mountain, five miles above EUzabethton, on
Watauga river. But this conveyance is dated March 13,
1834, and is to Mordeca (sic) Lincoln and John Berry of
the "county of Green and Carter," Tenn. (Book D, p. 373).
The site of the cabin in which Isaac and Mary lived is still
pointed out at the base of Lynn mountain.
Isaac and Mary Lincoln Slaveowners. The will of
Isaac Lincoln, dated April 22, 1816, is filed in the office of
the clerk of the circuit court of Carter county, Term., and,
though yellow with age, is in a good state of preservation.
By it he leaves all his property to his wife Mary; and when
her will (filed in the same office) is examined, it is found to
bequeath at least 28 negroes, naming each one separately,

EXTRAORDINARY EVENTS 325
and providing for the support of two of them during life.
William Stover, who got the bulk of her estate, was the son
of her sister and Daniel Stover; and Phoebe Crow, wife of
Campbell Crow, to whom she left the "negro girl Margaret
and her four children, to wit: Lucy, Mima, Martin and
Mahala, was Phoebe Williams, a niece of Mary Lincoln.
Campbell Crow was left "the lower plantation, it being the
one on which he now lives, adjoining the land of Alfred M.
Carter on the west and south and of John Carriger on the
east." To Christian Carriger, Sr., she bequeathed seven
negroes; to Mary Lincoln Carriger, wife of Christian Carriger
Sr., she left two negro girls. Christian Carriger, Sr., had
married a sister of Mary Lincoln. Daniel Stover — J. D.
Jenkins' great-grandfather — married another sister of Mary
Lincoln. Daniel Stover's son William had a son Daniel,
who married Mary, a daughter of Andrew Johnson, the suc
cessor of Abraham Lincoln in the Presidency, and he (John
son) died in her house, a few miles above EUzabethton, July
31, 1875. P. T. Brummit lives there now. It was not a part
of the Lincoln farm. The house is still visible from the rail
road, the log portion thereof having been torn away; but the
room in which Andrew Johnson died, in the second story
of the framed addition to the original house, still stands.
W. Butler Stover, great-grandnephew of Mary Lincoln, of
Jonesboro (R. F. D.), Term., still has Mary Lincoln's Bible;
but he wrote (March 6, 1914) that "it gives no dates of
births or deaths or marriages of any of the Lincolns."
William Stover was Butler Stover's grandfather and inherited
the farm on which Mary and Isaac Lincoln are buried, as
their tombstones attest, Mary's stating that she died August
27, 1834, "aged about 76 years." It is said that Isaac and
Mary Lincoln had but one child, a boy, who was drowned
before reaching manhood. Mrs. H. M. Folsom of Elizabeth-
ton is related to Mordecai Lincoln, while Mrs. W. M. Vought
of the same place was a Carriger. Dr. Natt Hyder, who
died twenty-odd years ago, and whose widow still lives
at Gap Creek, in the Sixth District, told James D. Jenkins
that old people had told him— "Old Man" Lewis particu
larly — that Abraham Lincoln was born on the side of Lynn
mountain, and was taken in his mother's arms to Kentucky,
going by way of Stony Fork creek and Bristol. An anony-

326 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
mous writer — supposed to be B. Clay Middleton — in an
article which was published in the Carter County News,
February 13, 1914, says: "Tradition says that it was here, in
the beautiful Watauga Valley, so rich in history, that the
young Thomas Lincoln first met and wooed the gentle Nancy
Hanks, whose name was destined to become immortal through
the achievements of her illustrious son. Tradition further
says that for a while before Thomas Lincoln and Nancy
Hanks left for Kentucky they lived for a time together as
common law husband and wife in a little cabin on Lynn
mountain, which overlooks the Watauga valley. I have been
informed that old people in that vicinity still recall the site
of what was known as the Tom Lincoln cabin, and traces of
the spot where the cabin stood still remain in the way of
stone foundations, etc." He also cites as "a little singular
that the life of Andrew Johnson in a way should be inter
woven with the name of Lincoln, whom he succeeded as
President of the United States. When he married Miss Eliza
McCardle, at Greenville, Tenn., it was 'Squire Mordecai
Lincoln who performed the ceremony. His daughter Mary
married Col. Dan Stover, the great nephew of Isaac Lincoln.' "
notes.
statements made to J. P. A. in 1912.
^Letter from S. J. Silver to J. P. A., dated November 18, 1912.
3Zebulon settled near French Broad River in Buncombe county, 2yz miles below Ashe
ville, where the National Casket Factory is now, and died there years ago.
¦•Bedent settled on Beaver Dam, two miles north of Asheville, at what is now the Way
place, where he died in 1839. Letter of Dr. J. S. T. Baird to J. P. A., December 16, 1912.
Dr. Baird died in April, 1913.
5Andrew, a brother of Zebulon and Bedent Baird, settled in Burke; but the Valle Crucis
Baird did not claim descent from him John Burton was really the founder of Asheville,
as on July 7, 1794, he obtained a grant for 200 acres covering what is now the center of that
city. Condensed from Asheville's Centenary. He afterwards moved to Ashe County and
in April, 1799, he entered 200 acres near the Virginia line. Deed Book A., p. 339.
6Condensed and quoted from T. L. Clingman's" Speeches and Writings," pp. 138, et seq.
'University Magazine of 1888-89.
aZeigler & Grosscup, p. 245.
'Letter of C. C Duckworth to J. P. A., May 1, 1912.
"Letter from C. C Duckworth to J. P. A., May 1, 1912; letter from D. K. Collins, June
7, 1912; statement of Hon. J. C. Pritchard, June, 1912. In "The Child That Toileth Not"
(p. 448) Pickens county, S. C, is given as the one in which Redmond held forth twenty years
ago, etc.
^State v. Hall, 114 N. C, p. 909.
^State v. Hall, 115 N. C, p. 811.
"For Hon. Z. B. Vance's account of the finding of Prof. Mitchell's bodv, see "Balsam
Groves of the Grandfather Mountain, " by S. M. Dugger (p. 261). In this appears a list of
those who assisted in the search. From this account it seems that what is now known as
Mitchell's Peak was put down in Cook's Map as Mt. Clingman. and that Prof. Mitchell
insisted that he had measured it in 1844, while Gen. Clingman claimed to have been the
first to measure it.
""Truth Is Stranger Than Fiction," pp. 130-137-139.
"Ibid., p. 86.
"Ibid., p. 74.
"According to Herndon, Thomas set up house-keeping in Indiana with the tools and
liquor he had recovered from his capsized river boat, p. 17.
17From Louisville Courier Journal, of Thursday, Novmber 9, 1911.
is" The Story of Abraham Lincoln's Mother," by Carolina Hanks Hitchcock, 1889.
'Tradition as related by James D. Jenkins, Esq., recorder of EUzabethton, Tenn.,
who also stated that Isaac Lincoln's wife was Sarah Stover, of Pennsylvania. Also that
President Andrew Johnson had died on the Isaac Lincoln farm.

CHAPTER XII
HUMOROUS AND ROMANTIC
A Faithful Picture of the Past. "Somewhere about
1830," writes Judge A. C. Avery, "my father had a summer
house constructed of hewn logs, containing four rooms and a
hall, with outhouses, at the place now called Plumtree. It
remained till about 1909, when it was destroyed by fire. This
was a mile below the 'Quarter,' where the overseer kept
house and my father's sons, who successively managed the
stock, stayed. There were a number of negro cabins around
the Craborchard proper, which was located about half a
mile from where WaightstiU W. Avery now lives. My father had
large meadows there, on which he raised a quantity of hay and
wintered hundreds of heads of cattle that ranged on the moun
tains in summer. These mountains were the Roan and the
Yellow, on whose bald summits grass grew luxuriantly.
Haymaking in the Summertime. "During August of every
year, after laying by his crop in Burke county, my father took
a number of negroes and several wagons and teams over to
the Craborchard, and moved his family for a stay of two
months or more to his summer house at Plumtree. He hired
white men from all over Yancey county to help his negroes
in saving the hay.
Open House and Grand Frolic. "He kept open house at
the summer place and large parties of ladies and gentlemen
went out there from time to time and had a grand frolic.
Many of the young people rode out on horseback, and some
of the ladies in carriages. Parties were continually riding out
to the Roan, the Yellow and to Linville Falls. The woods
were full of deer, and all the streams were full of speckled
trout that could be caught with redworm bait. So, the ladies
and gentlemen fished in Toe river and its tributaries while
others of the gentlemen hunted deer, often killing them near
enough to the summer house for the shot to be heard."
Where the Boys Were "Hanged." "The late James
Gudger, who was brought in his early infancy to his father's
residence on Swannanoa, just settled, and who, in 1830, and
(327)

328 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
1836, represented Buncombe county in the North Carolina
Senate, told his grandson, Capt. J. M. Gudger, that when he
was a very small boy it was the custom to send a number of
boys with bags of grain to mill to be ground, and leave it
there until a month later, when the boys would return with
other grain and carry back the meal ground from the first.
He further said that usually a man accompanied the party
to put on the sacks when they should fall from the horses,
but that on one occasion as he, then a very small boy, was
returning from the mill, with his companions of about the
same age, the man for some reason was not along, and one
of the sacks fell off on the Battery Park hill over which they
had to pass; that while endeavoring in vain to replace the
sacks a party of Indians came upon them, and from pure mis
chief threatened and actually began to hang them; that the
boys 1 were badly frightened, but finally the Indians left them
unharmed, and they went on their way, and that the hill was
afterwards known through the country as 'the hill where the
boys were hung. ' 1
Handlen Mountain. "He still further said that the mil
ler in charge of the mill, whose name was Handlen, undertook
to cultivate a crop on the mountain on the western side of
the French Broad, but as he did not return to the settlement
for a long while his friends became frightened, and in a party
went to the clearing, where they found him killed and scalped,
and his crop destroyed, and that from this incident that moun
tain took its name of the Handlen mountain. 1
"Talking for Buncombe." "Famous as Buncombe de
servedly is, she has acquired some notoriety that no place
less merits. Her name has become synonymous with empty
talk, a lucus a non lucendo. In the sixteenth Congress of the
United States the district of North Carolina which embraced
Buncombe county was represented in the lower house by
Felix Walker. The Missouri question was under discussion
and the house, tired of speeches, wanted to come to a vote.
At this time Mr. Walker secured the floor and was proceed
ing with his address, at best not very forceful or entertain
ing, when some impatient member whispered to him to sit
down and let the vote be taken. This he refused to do,
saying that he must ' make a speech for Buncombe, ' that is,
for his constituents; or, as others say, certain members rose

HUMOROUS AND ROMANTIC 329
and left the hall while he was speaking and, when he saw
them going, he turned to those who remained and told them
that they might go, too, if they wished, as he was 'only
speaking for Buncombe.' The phrase was at once caught
up and the vocabulary of the English language was enriched
by the addition of a new term. "2
Isolation of Mountain Neighborhoods. So sequestered
were many of these mountain coves which lay off the main
lines of travel, that persons living within only short distances
of each other were as though "oceans rolled between"; as
the following incident abundantly proves :
Mont. Ray's Flight, Return and Trial.3 Soon after
the Civil War Mont. Ray killed Jack Brown of Ivy, between
Ivy and Burnsville, and went to Buck's tanyard, just west of
Carver's gap under the Roan mountain, where he supported
himself making and mending shoes till many of the most
important witnesses against him had gotten beyond the juris
diction of the court — by death or removal — when he returned
and stood his trial in Burnsville and was acquitted. He had
never been forty miles away, had remained there twelve years ;
yet no one ever suspected that he was a fugitive from justice.
A Forgotten Battle-Field. The Star, a newspaper pub
lished in Sparta, Alleghany county, in its issue of February
29, 1912, contained the following : "A few years ago, along
New river, near the northern border of this county, was found
what is believed to be indications of a battle of which no one
now living has any knowledge, nor is there any tradition
among our people concerning it. On the land of Squire John
Gambill, near the bank of New river, after a severe rain
storm and wash-out, some white objects were noticed lying
on the ground. On examination these were found to be human
skulls and other parts of human skeletons. Further exami
nation revealed other marks of battle, such as leaden balls
buried in old trees lying on the ground, etc. Squire Gambill's
ancestors have resided in this section for one and a half cen
turies; yet, they have never heard of the occurrence, nor had
they any tradition of it. Who fought this battle? Why was
it fought? Was there a fort here? Was it fought between
the whites and Indians?" (See ante, p. 108.)
Andrew Jackson Loses a Horse Race.4 In the late
summer or early fall of 1788, Andrew Jackson and Robert

330 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Love had a horse race in the Greasy Cove, just above what it
now Ervin, Tenn. It seems that Jackson's jockey could not
ride and "Old Hickory" was forced to ride his horse him
self, while Love's jockey was on hand and rode Love's horse,
winning the race. When the result was known "just for a
moment there was a deep, ominous hush; then a pande
monium of noise and tumult that might have been heard
in the two neighboring counties. Jackson was the chief
actor in this riot of passion and frenzy. His brow was cor
rugated with wrath. His tall, sinewy form shook like an
aspen leaf. His face was the livid color of the storm cloud —
when it is hurling its bolts of thunder. His Irish blood was
up to the boiling point, and his eyes flashed with the fire of
war. He was an overflowing Vesuvius of rage, pouring the
hot lava of denunciation on the Love family in general and
his victorious rival in particular. Col. Love stood before this
storm unblanched and unappalled — for he, too, had plenty of
'sand,' and as lightly esteemed the value of life — and an
swered burning invective with burning invective hissing with
the same degree of heat and exasperation. Jackson denounced
the Loves as a 'band of land pirates' because they held the
ownership of nearly all the choice lands in that section. Love
retorted by calling Jackson 'a damned, long, gangling, sor
rel-topped soap stick.' The exasperating offensiveness of
this retort may be better understood when it is explained
that in those days women 'conjured' their soap by stirring
it with a long sassafras stick. The dangerous character of
both men was well known, and it was ended by the interfer
ence of mutual friends, who led the enraged rivals from the
grounds in different directions." 4
Two Old-Time Gentlemen. Major 0. F. Neal was a law
yer and farmer who lived in Jefferson, and who died in 1894.
He and his brother Ben were punctilious on all matters of
politeness. On one occasion, after a long walk, they reached
a spring. Ben insisted that, as the Major was a lawyer and
lived in town, he should drink first; but the Major claimed
that as Ben was the elder he must drink first. As neither
would yield to the other, they politely and good-naturedly
refused to drink at all, and returned home more thirsty than
ever.

HUMOROUS AND ROMANTIC 331
The First Department Store. Two miles from Old
Field, Ashe county, was kept from about 1870 to about 1890
the first department store known. It was kept by that en
terprising merchant Arthur D. Cole, and the large, but now
empty, buildings still standing there show the extent of his
business. He kept as many as twelve clerks employed, and
boasted that there were but two things he did not carry con
stantly in stock, one being the grace of God and the other
blue wool. A friend thought he had him "stumped" one
day when he called for goose yokes; but Cole quietly took him
up stairs and showed him a gross which he had had on hand
for years. He and his father did more to develop the root
and herb business in North Carolina than anyone else. He
failed in business, after nearly twenty years of success.
A Mysterious Disappearance. Zachariah Sawyer, grand
father of George Washington Sawyer, now register of deeds of
Ashe county, came to Ashe from east of the Blue Ridge
eighty-odd years ago. He learned that he was entitled to a
share in a large estate in England and went there to collect
his interest. After he had been in that country a short time
he wrote home that he had succeeded in collecting his share
and would soon start home. He was never afterwards heard of.
Welburn Waters, Hermit Hunter of White Top. In
a well written book, Mr. J. A. Testerman of Jefferson has
drawn a striking portrait of this old-time hunter and back
woodsman. The last edition is dated 1911. From it one
gathers that Waters was born on Reddy's river in Wilkes
county, November 20, 1812, the son of John P. Waters, a French
Huguenot, and a half-breed Catawba woman. His conversion
and his distraction at a conference held at Abingdon, Va., in
1859 because he was afraid some harm would come to a new
hat he had carried to church are amusingly told, while his
encounters with wild beasts and his solitary life on White
Top are graphically portrayed.
Lochinvar Redux. "About the year 1816, John Hols-
claw, a young and adventurous hunter, and a regular Loch
invar, as the sequel will show, built a bark 'shanty' on the
waters of Elk at the ' Big Bottoms, ' where he lived for many
years. The romance of his life was that he went over to Valle
Crucis, a settlement only eight miles distant, and there by
sheer force of will, or love, I will not say which, carried away,

332 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
captive, a young daughter of Col. Bedent Baird, and took her
over the mountains by a route so circuitous that, from what
her conductor told her, she verily believed she was in Ken
tucky. She was kept in ignorance of where she actuaUy did
live for many years, and only by accident found out better.
One day she heard a bell whose tinkle seemed strangely famil
iar. She went to the steer on which it was hung and found
that it belonged to her father. This clue led to the discovery
that, instead of being in Kentucky she was not eight miles as
the crow flies from her old home at Valle Crucis. Of course,
she thanked her husband for the deception, as all women do,
and they lived happy ever afterwards.
"For many years after John Holsclaw settled on the 'Big
Bottoms of Elk' with his youthful bride, they lived solitary
and alone; and in after years she was wont to tell how she
had frightened away the wolves which prowled around when
her husband was away, by thrusting firebrands at them, when
they would scamper off a distance and make night hideous
with their howls. And how, in after years, when they built
a rude log house with only one small window to admit the
light, and had moved into it, Mr. Holsclaw killed a deer and
dressed it, and had gone away, a panther, smelling the fresh
venison, came to the house and tried to get in, screaming
with all the ferocity of a beast brought almost to the point
of starvation. There was no one in the house but the woman
and one child, but she bravely held her own till her husband
returned, when the fierce beast was frightened away. She
lived to a great age, and only a few years ago died,6 and lies
buried on a beautiful hillock hard by the place of her nativ
ity, on the land now owned by one of her nephews, Mr. W.
B. Baird, one time sheriff of Watauga."
Who was Seller and Who was Sold? Col. Carson Vance
lived on Rose's creek, between Alta Pass and Spruce Pine
before and during and after the Civil War. He was a bright,
but eccentric man. He was admitted to the bar and prac
ticed law to some extent. But he and a free negro named
John Jackson made up a plot at the commencement of the
Civil War whereby they were to go together to New Orleans,
Vance as master and Jackson as slave. At New Orleans
Jackson was to be sold for all the cash he would bring, after
which Vance was to disappear. Then Jackson was to prove

HUMOROUS AND ROMANTIC 333
that he was a "free person of color," regain his freedom and
rejoin Vance on the outskirts of New Orleans. It is said that
this scheme worked successfully and that Vance and Jackson
divided the proceeds of the sale.
Love Finds a Way. On the 21st of June, 1856, W. M.
Blalock, commonly called Keith Blalock, and Malinda Pritch-
ard were married in Caldwell county, close to the Grand
father mountain. In 1862 the conscript law of the Confed
eracy went into operation, and Keith, though a Union man,
was clearly subject to conscription. There was no escape
from it except by volunteering. But to do that would be
to part with his wife. So they resolved to enlist together
and seek their first opportunity of deserting and getting over
into the Federal lines. They went to Kinston, N. C, and
joined the 26th N. C. regiment, then commanded by Col.
Zebulon B. Vance, soon afterwards to become governor. This
was on the 12th of April, 1862. She wore a regular private's
uniform and tented and messed with her husband. She en
listed and was known as Sam Blalock. She stood guard,
drilled and handled her musket like a man, and no one ever
suspected her sex. But they were too far from the Federal
lines, with little prospect of getting nearer. So Keith went
into a swamp and rubbed himself all over with poison oak.
They sent him to the hospital in Kinston, where the surgeons
disagreed as to his ailment, and he was returned to his own
regiment, where his surgeon recommended his discharge. It
was granted and he left the camp. Then his wife presented
herself to Col. Vance and said that as long as they had sent
her man home she wanted to go, too. An explanation fol
lowed with confirmation "strong as proof of holy writ." She
was discharged. Keith joined the Union army and drew
a pension. Mrs. Blalock died March 9, 1901. He was called
"Keith" because when a boy he was a great fighter, and could
"whip his weight in wild-cats," as the saying went. At that
time there was a fighter, full grown and of great renown, who
lived at Burnsville, by the name of Alfred Keith. The
boys Blalock played with, "double-teamed" on him some
times, but always got thrashed. They then called him "Old
Keith." He died in September, 1913, at Montezuma.
The Wild Cat. In February, 1848, when she was sixteen
years old, Mary Garland, afterwards the wife of Judge Jacob

334 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
W. Bowman, killed a wild cat which had followed some ducks
into her yard. She hemmed it in a fence corner and beat it
to death with a "battling stick" — a stout, paddle-like stick
used to beat clothes when they are being washed. This was
on Big Rock creek, Mitchell county. Her cousins, Jane and
Nancy Stanley, while tending the boiling of maple sugar sap
in a camp on the waters of Big Rock creek in the spring of
1842, when sixteen and thirteen years old respectively, killed
a black bear which had been attracted by the smell of sugar,
by driving it into a small tree and killing it with an ax.
A Moonshiner's Heaven. Forty years ago Lost Cove was
almost inaccessible, except by trails; but last year (1912) awagon
road over three miles long was constructed to it over the
ridges from Poplar Station on the C. C. & 0. Railroad. Such a
secluded place was a great temptation to moonshiners, and
when to its inaccessibility was added the fact that it was in
dispute between Tennessee and North CaroUna, its fascina
tions became irresistible. Accordingly John D. Tipton was
accused of having begun business by the light of the moon,
as was evidenced by sundry indictments in the United States
court at Asheville. His example was soon followed by others;
but, whenever it appeared to Judge R. P. Dick that the al-
ledged stills were in the disputed territory, he directed the
discharge of the defendants. However, a mighty change has
taken place in Lost Cove within the past few years, and not
only is there no moonshining there now, even when fair Luna
is at the full, but the good people will not suffer the "critter"
to be brought in from Tennessee. And better still, in 1910
they built a school house and a church, and voted a special
school tax, the first school having been taught in 1911.
Peggy's Hole. Three-quarters of a mile above Elk Cross
Roads, now Todd, is a high bluff, covered with laurel, pines
and ivy. It is at a bend of New river. About 1815 Mrs.
Peggy Clauson was going to church on a bright Sunday morn
ing. Dogs had run a bear off the bluff into a deep hole at
the base of a cliff, and Mrs. Clauson saw him swimming
around in the water. She waded in and, seizing the brute by
both ears, forced his head under the water and held it there
until Bruin had drowned. It has been called Peggy's Hole
ever since.

HUMOROUS AND ROMANTIC 335
The Hermit of Bald Mountain.6 "In Yancey county,
visible from the Roan, and forty-five miles from Asheville, is
a peak known as Grier's Bald, named in memory of David
Grier, a hermit, who lived upon it for thirty-two years. From
posthumous papers of Silas McDowell, we learn the following
facts of the hermit's singular history. A native of South Caro
lina, he came into the mountains in 1798, and made his home
with Colonel David Vance, whose daughter he fell in love
with. His suit was not encouraged; the young lady was mar
ried to another, and Grier, with mind evidently crazed,
plunged into the wilderness. This was in 1802. On reach
ing the bald summit of the peak which bears his name, he
determined to erect a permanent lodge in one of the coves.
He built a log house and cleared a tract of nine acres, sub
sisting in the meantime by hunting and on a portion of the
$250 paid him by Colonel Vance for his late services. He
was twenty miles from a habitation. For years he lived un
disturbed; then settlers began to encroach on his wild domains.
In a quarrel about some of his real or imaginary landed rights,
he killed a man named Holland Higgins. At the trial he was
cleared on the ground of insanity, and returned home to meet
death at the hands of one of Holland's friends. Grier was a
man of strong mind and fair education. After killing Higgins,
he published a pamphlet in justification of his act, and sold
it on the streets. He left papers of interest, containing his
life's record and views of life in general, showing that he was
a deist, and a believer in the right of every man to take the
executive power of the law into his own hands."
Old Cataloochee Stories. Owing to the fact that the
late Col. Allen T. Davidson spent much of his young man
hood hunting and fishing in Cataloochee valley, much of its
early history has been preserved. From him it was learned
that years ago Zach White shot a deputy sheriff named Ray-
burn when Col. Davidson was a boy, and hid near a big rock
in a little flat one half mile above the late Lafayette Palmer's
home, where for years Neddy McFalls and Dick Clark fed
him. He also stayed on Shanty branch near where Har
rison Caldwell now lives. This branch got its name from a
shanty or shed that Old Smart, a slave of Mitchell David
son, built there while he tended cattle for his master years
before any white people ever lived in that valley. The cattle

336 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
ranged on the Bunk mountain and on Mount Sterling, and
one day when Neddy McFalls was looking for them to salt
them he could not find a trace of them anywhere. His nick
name for Col. Davidson was Twitty. Now the Round Bunk
mountain stands between the lefthand fork of the Little
Cataloochee and Deep Gap, while the Long branch runs from
the balsam on Mount Sterling and between the headwaters
of Little Cataloochee and Indian creek. It was on the Long
Branch that Col. Davidson and Neddy McFalls were standing
when the latter put his hands to his mouth and cried out : " Low,
Dudley, low!", Dudley being the name of the bull with the
herd of cattle; and almost immediately they heard Dudley
from the top of Mount Sterling give a long, loud low, and they
knew that their cattle were found. Richard Clark is the one
who gave the name to the Bunk mountain.7 Neddy McFalls
was a great believer in witchcraft. He carried a rifle that
had been made by a man of the name of Gallaspie on the
head of the French Broad river, while Col. Davidson's gun
was known as the Aaron Price gun. Neddy missed a fair shot
at a buck one day and nothing could persuade him from leav
ing Cataloochee and traveling miles to a female witch doctor
who was to take the "spell" off his gun. Jim Price was found
dead of milk sick west of the "Purchase," formerly the home
of John L. Ferguson on top of Cataloochee mountain, on
another branch, also known as the Long branch. A little dog,
stayed with the body and attracted the searchers to it by
getting on a foot-log and howling.
It was said that the Indians had killed Neddy McFall's
father and that he had a grudge against all Indians in conse
quence. So one day Neddy and Sam McGaha were together
and saw an Indian seated on a log. Neddy told McGaha
that the triggers on his rifle were "set," that is locked, and
asked him to take a good aim at the Indian just for fun. Not
knowing that the triggers were really "sprung," and that
the slightest touch on the "hair-trigger" would fire the rifle,
McGaha did as he was asked, with the result that the Indian
fell dead. It is said that Neddy had to run for his life to es
cape the wrath of McGaha.
Private Wm. Nicodemus. An Indian named Christie lived
on the site of the present town of Murphy, and a ford crossing
Valley river between the two bridges of the present day was

HUMOROUS AND ROMANTIC 337
for years called the Christie ford. The first house built by a
white man in Cherokee county was a large two-story log house
with several rooms, erected by A. R. S. Hunter, originally of
Virginia, but who moved into North Carolina from Georgia.
Its furniture was of mahogany and was brought by Indians
on their shoulders from Walhalla, South Carolina, there being
no wagon roads at that time. Mr. Hunter, in about 1838,
built a better house. General Wool and General Winfield
Scott were entertained by the Hunters during the time of the
removal of the Cherokees. Several of the United States
soldiers engaged in that heart-rending process died and were
buried near this old residence; but these remains were removed
in 1905 or 1906 to the National cemetery at Marietta, Georgia.
On one of the old headstones a single name is yet decipherable
— that of Wm. Nicodemus.
Cupid and the General's Surgeon. Fort Butler was on
a hill not far from the Hunter home. Mr. Hunter had one
child, a daughter, who married Dr. Charles M. Hitchcock, a
surgeon on Gen. Wool's staff during the "Removal" and the
Mexican War. They afterwards moved to California, where
they acquired many valuable lands and settled at San Fran
cisco. They had one child, a daughter, Lily, who is now a
Mrs. Coit, and spends much of her time in Paris, France.
She still owns all the lands in Cherokee county which were
acquired by her grandfather, Mr. Hunter. They embrace
all the land between the Notla and the Hiwassee, the "Mead
ows, " on the head of Tallulah creek in Graham county, and land
in Murphy, where she owns a house near the west end of the
bridge over the Hiwassee river.
A Frightened Entry-Taker. The Entry-Taker's office
was opened in Murphy on the last of March, 1842, when much
excitement prevailed, as it was strictly a case of "first come,
first served." It is said that so eager and demonstrative was
the crowd that Drewry Weeks became alarmed and hid him
self in one of the upstairs rooms of the old jail, and that, when
he was finally discovered, the rush that was made upon him
was really terrifying. They broke out the window lights
with their fists and handed or threw their bundles of entries
and surveys through these openings. One land-hungry citi
zen, Stephen Whitaker by name, used to tell how he climbed
upon the shoulders of the dense crowd of men who were packed
W. N. C— 22

338 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
in front of the window of the jail and scrambled and crawled
on hands and knees over the heads of those who were so
crowded together that they could not use their fists upon him,
or dislodge him by allowing him to drop by his own weight,
till he reached the window and so got a place near the head
of the list. It is said, however, that the execrations and
maledictions — commonly called curses — which were hurled
at him were enough to damn him eternally, if mere words
could accomplish that result.
A Strange Dream. Dr. J. E. West was drowned March
19, 1881, while attempting to ford the Tuckaseegee river at
the Bear Ford, and remained in the water about two weeks,
when Rachel Grant, a poor woman whose son Dr. West had
been treating, dreamed that he came to her and on seeing
him she expressed surprise and told him she thought that he
was drowned. He told her that he was and wanted to tell
her where to direct the men, when they came to search, where
to find his body. He said to tell them to get into the canoe
and pole toward two maples on the opposite side and when
they got near the current that came around a rock to put
their pole down and they would find him. When she awoke
in the moring she dressed and walked up to the landing to see
if it looked like she had seen it while dreaming. She was so
impressed that she sat and waited till the searching party
came, to whom she told her story. Of course, some were
amused while a few had faith enough to follow her directions,
and when they did so found the body in the precise place she
had pointed out to them. Mrs. Grant is still living in this
county, as well as some of those who found the body. It had
floated about one-half mile.8
The Delosia "Mind."9 A man named Edward Delosia,
of Blount county, Term., claimed to have discovered a gold
mine in the Smoky mountains years before the Civil War;
and it is said that he left a "way bill" or chart telling where
it might be found. This chart located it at some point from
which the Little Tennessee river could be seen in three places
coming toward the observer and in three places going from
the observer. No such place has ever been discovered, though
there are points on the Gregory and Parsons Balds from which
the river can be seen in several places. It was said that De
losia claimed he had cut off solid "chunks" of gold with his

HUMOROUS AND ROMANTIC 339
hatchet. Many have hunted for it, and many more will con
tinue to seek it, but in vain. Many others had and still have
what may very properly be termed the "Delosia Mind," or
the belief that sooner or later they would or will discover
minerals of untold value in these mountains.
A Thrilling Boat Ride. A large whale boat had been
built at Robbinsville and hauled to a place on Snowbird creek
just below Ab. Moody's, where it was put into the creek, and it
was floated down that creek to Cheoah river and thence to John
son's post-office, where Pat Jenkins then lived. It was hauled
from there by wagon to Rocky Point, where, in April, 1893, Cal
vin Lord, Mike Crise and Sam McFalls, lumbermen working for
the Belding Lumber Company, got into it and started down
the Little Tennessee on a "tide" or freshet. No one ever ex
pected to see them alive again. But they survived. By catch
ing the overhanging branches when swept toward the northern
bank at the mouth of the Cheoah river the crew managed to
effect a landing, where they spent the night. They started again
the next morning at daylight and got to Rabbit branch, where
the men who had been sent to hunt them found them. They
spent three days there till the tide subsided, then they went
on to the Harden farm, which they reached just one week
after leaving Rocky Point. No one has ever attempted this
feat since, even when the water was not high. The boat was
afterwards taken on to Lenoir City, Tenn.
A Faithful Dog. Many incidents occurred in which our
pioneer mothers showed grit equal to that of their intrepid
husbands. But there is one of the intelligence and faithful
ness of a dog that deserves to be recorded.
William Sawyer, one of the pioneers of that section, was liv
ing on Hazel creek, near where the famous Adams- Westfeldt
copper lead was afterwards found. He left home one day in
1858, when there was what the natives call a "little blue snow"
covering the landscape, taking with him his trusty rifle and
his trustier dog. Together they went into the Bone Valley,
on Bone creek, one of the head prongs of Hazel creek, and so
called because a number of cattle had perished there from
cold several years before, their bleaching bones remaining
as a reminder of the blizzard that had locked everything in its
icy fingers late in a preceding spring.
William Sawyer killed a large bear and proceeded to disem
bowel and skin him, after which he started home loaded down

340 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
with bear meat. But he did not get far before he fell dead in the
trail. The dog remained with him till after midnight, when,
being satisfied that his master was dead, he left the cold body
in the woods and proceeded back home. Arriving there just
before day, the faithful animal whined and scratched on the
door till he was admitted. Once inside the cabin, he kept
up his whining and, catching the skirts of Mrs. Sawyer's dress
in his mouth, tried to draw her to the door and outside the
house. Quickly divining the dog's purpose and concluding
that he was trying to lead her to her husband, she summoned
her neighbors and followed. She soon discovered the body
of her husband, cold and stiff.
Aquilla Rose. This picturesque blockader lives at the
head of Eagle creek in Swain county. Soon after the Civil
War he got into a row with a man named Rhodes a mile be
low Bryson City, and was shot through the body. As Rose
fell, however, he managed to cut his antagonist with a knife,
wounding him mortally. After this he went to Texas and
stayed there some time, returning a few years later and set
tling with his faithful wife at his present home. It is near
the Tennessee line, and if anyone were searching for an inac
cessible place at that time he could not have improved on
Quil's choice. He was never arrested for killing Rhodes, self-
defence being too evident. In 1912 he made a mistake about
feeding some swill to his hogs and was "haled" — literally hauled
— before Judge Boyd at Asheville on a charge of operating
an illicit distillery near his peaceful home. It was his violation
of the eleventh commandment, to "never get ketched"; but
Quil was getting old and probably needed a dram early in the
morning, anyhow. Judge Boyd was merciful, and it is safe
to predict that Quil will keep that eleventh commandment
hereafter. The Golden City. Wm. H. Herbert owned a large bound
ary of land in Clay which had been entered for Dr. David
Christie of Cincinnati, Ohio, before the Civil War, say about
1857 or 1858, the warrants having been issued to M. L. Brit
tain and J. R. Dyche, who assigned them to Dr. Christie.
He gave bonds to the State in 1859 ; but the Civil War
came on and Dr. Christie returned to the North, and failed
to pay for them. On February 27, 1865, the North Carolina
legislature passed an act authorizing any person to pay for these

HUMOROUS AND ROMANTIC 341
lands and take grants from the State for them. Wm. H. Her
bert paid what was due on Christie's bonds and took grants
for the lands.
He then sold three hundred acres (Grant No. 2989) to Peter
Eckels, of Cincinnati, about 1870, and about 1874 Peter
Eckels divided this tract into lots (on paper only) calling it
The Golden City. But it was "Wild Land" on Tusquittee
mountain at the head of Johnson creek, and was not very val
uable. He sold several lots, however, to people in Cincinnati
and years afterwards vain attempts were made to locate this
Golden City.
A Large Heart. For several years after the Civil War
and up to the time of his death the residence of the late John
H. Johnson was the scene of much hospitality. The lawyers
hurried through court duties at Murphy, Robbinsville and
Hayesville in order to get to spend as much time as possible
beneath his roof. It was at a certain hospitable house in
Clay county that rose leaves were scattered between the mat
tresses and the sheets, and the table groaned with the good
things provided by the owner, and which were deliciously served
by his wife and five charming daughters. One love-sick "limb of
the law" is said to have addressed four of them in quick succes
sion one bright Sabbath day in the early seventies only
to be rejected by each in turn. It seems that these sisters
had told each other of the proposals received, and that the
ardent lover had sworn that he loved each one to distraction.
So, when he made this declaration to the fourth and youngest,
she asked him if he had not made the same protestation of
love and devotion to her three elder sisters. He promptly
admitted that he had. When she asked him how it was pos
sible for him to love four girls at once, he solemnly assured
her that he had a heart as big as a horse collar.
Bruin Meets His Fate. It is a well authenticated fact
that Mrs. Norton, then living in Cashier's Valley, was awak
ened one night while her husband was away from home, by
hearing a great commotion and the squealing of hogs at the
hog-pen near by. Her children were small and there was no
"man pusson" about the place. The night was cold and
she had no time to clothe herself, but, rushing from the cabin
in her night dress and with bare feet, she snatched an axe
from the wood-pile and hastening to the hog-pen, saw a large,

342 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
black bear in the act of killing one of her pet "fattening hogs. "
She did not hesitate an instant, but went on and, aiming a
well-directed blow at Bruin's cranium, split it from ears to chin
and so had bear meat for breakfast instead of furnishing pork
for the daring marauder.
Neddy Davidson and "Granny" Weiss.10 Old Neddy
Davidson, of Davidson river, was a mulatto who lived to be
very old — some claiming that he was 116 years of age
when he died. He was given his freedom by his master, Ben
Davidson, and afterwards moved to Canada. But he re
turned to his old home on Davidson river before his death and
about a year before that event Judge Shuford went to his house
and spent half the day with him, listening to his stories of
old times. He told of frequent fights at the Big Musters then
common in this section, and of many other characters.
Among the latter was a man named Johnson who used to live
on Davidson river and "settled" what is now known as the
Old Deaver (locally pronounced Devver) place. Some
thing like one hundred years ago a cattle buyer named Carson
stopped all night with Johnson and discovered the following
morning that all his money, two or three hundred dollars,
was missing. Having no reason to suspect Johnson or his fam
ily of the theft, he left for his home. Shortly after his depart
ure Johnson was very seriously affected with gravel and sent
for an old woman reputed to be a witch, known as "Granny"
Weiss or Weice. She lived on the French Broad river, near
the mouth of Davidson's river. On her way to attend the
sick man she met his (Johnson's) wife carrying a lot of money.
She explained to Granny Weiss that both she and her husband
were convinced that his urinary affliction had been visited
upon him because he had taken Carson's money and that
it would not be relieved till the money had been thrown into
the French Broad river.
A Practical "Witch."11 WeU, the story went, that if
Granny was a witch, she was a wise and good one. For she
immediately put her veto on throwing that money in the
French Broad river. She admitted that its theft from Carson
by Johnson was the real cause of the latter's sickness; but,
insisted that instead of throwing the money into the French
Broad the proper course would be to send for Carson, its true
owner, and return it to him. This was done. Carson did

HUMOROUS AND ROMANTIC 343
not prosecute Johnson, but the true story got out and Johnson
had to sell his place and move away.
A Pathetic Story. Mr. John Lyon of Great Britain was
an assiduous collector of our plants, and was probably in these
mountains prior to 1802. "He, however, spent several
years there at a subsequent period, and died at Asheville in
September, 1814, aged forty-nine years." In Riverside
cemetery, Asheville, is a small tombstone bearing the follow
ing inscription: "In Memory of John Lyon, who departed
this life Sept. 14, 1814, aged 49 years." From a letter writ
ten by the late Silas McDowell of Macon county, N. C, to
Dr. M. A. Curtis, author of "Woody Plants of North Caro
lina," and dated October, 1877, we learn that Lyon had been
"a low, thick-set, small man of fine countenance," and had
come from Black Mountain in the early autumn of 1814, sick;
that he took a room in the Eagle hotel. Also that for two sum
mers prior to that time he had been seen in Asheville by Mr.
McDowell. Lyon and James Johnston, a blacksmith from
Kentucky, and a man of great size, had become friends. So,
when Lyon took to his bed, Johnston had a bed placed in the
same room for his own use, and attended the botanist at
night. The boy, Silas McDowell, had also become attabhed
to Mr. Lyon, and on the day of his death had gone to his
room earlier than usual. "This day throughout had been
one of those clear autumnal days," continues this letter,
"when the blue heavens look so transcendantly pure! but
now the day was drawing fast to a close, the sun was about
sinking behind the distant blue mountains, its rays gleaming
through a light haze of fleecy cloud that lay motionless upon
the western horizon, and which the sun's rays were changing
to that bright golden tint that we can look on and feel, but
can't describe. The dying man caught a glimpse of the
beautiful scene and observed : ' Friend Johnston, we are hav
ing a beautiful sunset — the last I shall ever behold — will
you be so kind as to take me to the window and let me look
out?' Johnston carried him to the window, took a seat and
held the dying man in a position so that his eyes might take
in the beautiful scene before him. With seraphic look he gazed
intently, uttering the while a low prayer — or rather the
soul's outburst of rapturous adoration and praise. After
the sun sank out of sight, and the beautiful scene faded out,

344 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
he exclaimed: 'Beautiful world, farewell! Friend Johnston,
lay me down upon my bed — I feel as if I can sleep — I may
not awake — kiss me Johnston — now farewell.' He fell
asleep in a short time and soon all was still. All of John
Lyon that was mortal was dead. "
The kind-hearted blacksmith left Asheville soon afterward,
but soon met and married a lady of property in Alabama,
and had two sons. J 2
Soon after the death of John Lyon friends in Edinburgh,
Scotland, sent the tombstone that now marks his grave. His
grave had been in the graveyard of the First Presbyterian
church, but was removed to Riverside in 1878, the late Col.
Allen T. Davidson and Mr. W. S. Cornell, the keeper of the
cemetery, bearing the expense.
The Judge, the Whistlers, and the Geese. Judge J.
M. Cloud of Salem rode the mountain circuit in 1871 and in
1872. He was a fearless and honest man whose knowledge
of law consisted mainly in his knowledge of human nature, and in
his own good sense. He was very eccentric and, apparently,
the fiercest and sternest of jurists; but he was really a tender
hearted gentleman. He was a bachelor and affected to hate
whistling and the noise of geese and chickens ; but he himself
could shake a log house with his snoring. He was very fond
of boiled sweet corn. On one occasion one of the lawyers
who arrived at a certain noted hostelry at Valley Town in
advance of the Judge told the landlady that his Honor had sent
word by him to be sure to save him for supper twelve
ears of corn and three bundles of fodder, the usual "feed"
for a horse ! Judge Cloud never forgave this joke. When
he got to Asheville, several of the most mischievious
young men serenaded him with sweet music at first
and then with cat-mewing, tin pans and cow bells. One
of their number, Mr. Samuel G. Weldon, made the others
believe that the Judge had issued a bench warrant for their
arrest for contempt of court, and two of them left town pre
cipitately. When the Judge got to Bakersville he was annoyed by a
gang of geese which prowled the streets around the court
house and hissed — hissed — hissed. Judge Cloud called the
sheriff and ordered him to kill the geese. The sheriff told
Stokes Penland, now living at Pinola, to shut the geese up
in a barn till the judge left town. Stokes, a mere boy then,

HUMOROUS AND ROMANTIC 345
did so. When court "broke," as final adjournment is called,
the sheriff presented his bill for $12. "What is this for?"
fiercely demanded the judge. "For the twelve geese you
ordered me to kill," answered the sheriff. "Show me their
dead bodies," returned the Judge "or I'll not pay one cent."
The sheriff called up Stokes, thinking he would carry out the
joke and pretend that he had actually killed the geese. But
he had failed to tell the boy what was expected of him. So
he asked him: "What did you do with those twelve geese
the judge told me to have killed?" "I shut them up in the
barn, and they are there yet, " was the surprising but truthful
answer. At another court, however, that at Marshall, the
geese had really been killed and the judge was forced to pay
for them, willy nilly.
An Asheville Poo Bah. In a municipal campaign in 1874,
while the late Albert T. Summey was mayor, he was opposed
for re-election by the late Col. John A. Fagg, who declared
in a speech that "Squire Summey held a separate office for
each day in the week, being mayor on Monday, United States
commissioner on Tuesday, justice of the peace on Wednesday,
county commissioner on Thursday, chairman of the board
of education on Friday, commissioner in bankruptcy on Sat
urday, and, in Prince Albert coat and silk hat, elder of the
Presbyterian church on Sunday. 'Myself and my wife, my
son George and his wife, us four and no more.' "
Murder of Daniel Sternbergh. In 1874 G. W. Cun
ningham was arrested, tried and convicted for having killed
and robbed Sternbergh of Kansas 6th June, 1874, near Stepp's
on the North Fork of the Swannanoa. The case was tried
in Madison, and the defendant executed after the Supreme
Court had confirmed his conviction. (72 N. C, 469.)
Will Harris, Desperado. At midnight, November 13,
1906, policemen Page and C. R. Blackstock were summoned
to a house on Eagle street, and when Blackstock opened the
rear door he was shot fatally by a mulatto man supposed to
have been Will Harris or  Abernathy of Mecklenburg.
Harris also shot Page in the arm as he went to headquarters
to summon help. Harris started up Eagle street and on the
way killed Jocko Corpening, a negro, and Ben Addington, also
colored. As he turned into South Main Harris shot a hole
in the clothes of a negro named George Jackson, and then

346 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
started towards the square. Policeman J. W. Bailey started
to meet Harris, and placed himself behind a large telegraph
post on the northeast corner of the square and South Main;
but Harris, with a Savage rifle with steel-jacketed balls,
dropped on one knee and fired at the post, the ball passing
through it and through Policeman Bailey as well, killing
him. Harris turned back down South Main, firing at three
white men as he went, and at Kelsey Bell in a second-story
window. There was snow that day, but the next Harris was
shot to death about eleven o'clock in the forenoon near
Fletcher's by a posse in pursuit.
The Last "Big Muster." At the last Big Muster in
Boone, which occurred on the second Saturday of October,
1861, the militia had a somewhat hilarious time; and after
it was over Col. J. B. Todd, then clerk of the court, stood val
iantly at the court house door, and vainly waved his sword
in a frantic effort to prevent the sheriff and others from riding
their horses into the court room, and pawing the big bass drum
which some one had placed behind the bar for safe-keeping.
"Freezing Out of Jail." Joseph T. Wilson, nick-named
"Lucky Joe," obtained a change of venue from Watauga
to Ashe Superior court at the November term, 1883. 1 3 He
had been indicted for stealing horses from AUoway and Henry
Maines of the North Fork; but before he was removed from the
Boone jail, a blizzard came on, and one morning Lucky Joe
was found in his cell frozen stiff. A doctor pronounced him
dead or beyond recovery; but he was taken to the Brick Row,
an annex of the old Coffey hotel, and thawed out. Still pro
testing that he was stiff and frozen he was allowed to remain
in that building a day or two, under guard. But one evening
at dark the guard locked the door and went out for more
fuel. When he returned Lucky Joe was absent. He was
tracked through the snow three miles to the Jones place on
Rich mountain; but he could not be overtaken. The fol
lowing spring Alexander Perry, of Burke, captured him in
one of the western States and returned him to Ashe, where
he was convicted and sentenced to ten years in the penitentiary.
There he became superintendent of the prison Sunday School,
and had earned an early discharge; but when his baggage came
to be examined it was discovered that he had stolen several
articles from the penitentiary itself, and he was made to serve

HUMOROUS AND ROMANTIC 347
his full term. Upon his return to Watauga he studied law
and tried to be "good" for several years; but at the June Term,
1904, x 4 he was convicted under one and pleaded guilty to three
indictments and was sentenced to five years on the Iredell county
roads, where he died soon afterwards. The stories of his
career in Kentucky would fill a volume. He was born in 1846
or 1847, and was a Civil War pensioner.
A Long - Distance Quarrel. Long before the invention
of telephones two farmers oi Beaver Dams, Watauga county,
established the fact that they at least had no need for wires
and electricity, by indulging in the first wireless telegraphy
on record. Elijah Dotson and Alfred Hilliard each owned
a hill-side farm three miles apart. One morning Alf saw
Elijah resting in his field, and jokingly told him to go to work;
whereupon Elijah told Alf to go to a region devoid of snow
and ice. This was the commencement of an oral duel that
lasted half the day, and until the dinner horn summoned
both to the midday meal. The success of this feat was due
to strong lungs rather than to any peculiar carrying power of the
atmosphere of Watauga, though it is the clearest and purest
in the State.
A Romance of Slavery Days. On October 16, 1849,
Silas Baker, a slave belonging to Miss Elizabeth Baker,
loved a negro woman named Mill or Millie, the prop
erty of William Mast of Valle Crucis. About this time Jacob
Mast, William's uncle, returned from Texas, and the servants
discovered that he would soon marry Elizabeth Baker, and
return with her to Texas. That she would take Silas with
her was most probable; and, unless Jacob Mast should buy
Millie and take her also, these dusky lovers would be sepa
rated forever. It is likely that they satisfied themselves that
Jacob would not buy Millie; but probably reasoned that, if
William Mast and his wife were dead, there would be a sale
of his slaves to settle the estate, at which they hoped that
Jacob would buy Millie. So, it is supposed, for there was
never any tangible proof against either, that these two ignor
ant and infatuated lovers poisoned William Mast and his wife
by putting wild or poison parsnips into their coffee. But the
scheme miscarried; for, though William and his wife died that
day (October 16), Jacob Mast took Silas to Texas with
him, while John Whittington bought Millie and sold her to

348 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
people in Tennessee, which effectually parted them forever.
Elbert Dinkins of Caldwell county was then teaching school
in the neighborhood, and was boarding at William Mast's; and
he told Dr. J. B. Phillips of Cove creek the above facts.
Another Version. Will Shull, a respected colored man,
who was born March 10, 1832, claims that Millie's motive
was revenge for a severe chastisement which she had received
at the hands of her master, William Mast, as punishment
for having stolen a twenty-dollar gold-piece from his own
young master and playmate, Andrew Mast, a son of David
and Polly Mast, when she had been at this home washing
clothes. Millie had given this money to Charles, another negro,
who belonged to John Mast of Sugar Grove, to have changed for
her; but Charles took the money to the store of Henry Taylor
at that place, and as he and Andrew Mast were courting
Emeline and Caroline, the two daughters of John Mast,
Taylor asked Andrew if he could change the money for him.
When Andrew saw it he recognized it as his own, as he had
previously marked it. Charles, of course, laid the blame on
Millie, who in turn tried to hold the colored boy Will Shull
responsible. When Will heard of Millie's false charge, he
loaded a small shotgun which had but recently been given
him and started to shoot Millie, but was stopped by Mrs.
Polly Mast, who told him Millie had confessed. Millie did
not wish to poison Mrs. Mira Mast, who did not usually
drink coffee; but on that fatal morning she had partaken
with her husband, William Mast, of the potion Millie had
prepared for him alone. William Mast was then at work
on the bridge over the Watauga, a mile below ShuU's Mills,
when he was taken sick and got medicine from Philip Shull
that morning. Will acquits Sile.
Silas Baker and His Bugle. Rev. L. W. Farthing,
however, who remembers Sile well, says that the public sen
timent of that day held Sile guilty as the prime mover and
instigator of the plot. He says that Sile was a large, impu
dent black man, between thirty and forty years old, and
blew a long tin horn on his way to and from his work — a
bugle. This was probably a stage horn; for soon after the
opening of the new turnpike down the Watauga river stage
coaches ran on it from Abingdon via Mountain City (then
Taylorsville), Trade, Sugar Grove, ShuUs Mills, Blowing

HUMOROUS AND ROMANTIC 349
Rock, and Lenoir, to Lincolnton. They were drawn by four
horses and driven by colored drivers, a Mr. Dunn of Abing
don having been the owner of the line. One of the stands
or stopping places, where the horses were changed, was at
John Mast's at Sugar Grove; another was at Joseph ShuU's
(where James M. Shull now resides) and one was at "the
Coffey gap of the Blue Ridge, where Jones Coffey now lives.
These stages ran for several years prior to 1861, when they
were withdrawn.
Jim Speer's Fate. About ten or twelve years prior to
the Civil War, four white men of Watauga county, went with
James Speer of Beaver Dams to South Carolina. Their names
are still remembered by a few of the older citizens. Speer
was not considered "right bright," as the expression goes,
meaning that while he was not utterly imbecile, he was yet
stupid or dense intellectually. He agreed to be blacked
and sold as a negro, with the understanding that he was to
"wash up" after they had returned home, "escape" from
bondage, and share in the proceeds of the sale. All these
things were done except the division of the spoils. At the
next Big Muster following Jim's return, a quarrel was over
heard between him and his confederates in the swindle, during
which it is supposed Jim demanded his share and threatened
"to let the cat out of the bag" if it was not forthcoming. He
returned to his home on Beaver Dams and shortly afterwards
disappeared forever. It was supposed that he had been done
away with. About 1893 John K. Perry, Esq., found a human
skeleton in the cliffs in the rear of his dwelling on Beaver
Dams, and still has the skull in his possession. These are sup
posed to be the remains of Jim Speer. J 6
Joshua Pennell. In 1859 or 1860, Joshua Pennell of
Wilkes left a will setting all his slaves free, and providing for
their removal to a Free State, and their support there until
they could raise a crop. Pennell was a bachelor. Joshua
Winkler was made executor, and old citizens of Boone remem
ber seeing him and the negroes pass through that town one
bright Sabbath morning on their way to Kansas. Henry C.
Pearson, Winkler's brother-in-law, accompanied them also. : 6
"A Wandering Minstrel He." During the seventies,
William Murphy of Greenville, S. C, wandered through
these mountains making music every day. He, like Stephen

350 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Foster, was regarded as a half-vagabond, but he was toler
ated for the pleasure his enchanted violin gave whenever he
drew his magic bow across its strings. There can be little
doubt that men of his genius feel the indifference and neglect
of their contemporaries; and it may be that, from their Cal
varies of poverty, they, too, realize that we know not what we
do. For to them the making of music is their sole mission
here upon earth, and come poverty, obscurity or death, ay,
come even disgrace and obliquy, they, like Martin Luther at
Worms, "can do no otherwise, God helping them." Indeed,
it is the highest form of worship, and David's Psalms still
live while all the Ptolemies of the past have been forgotten.
Foster's songs are linking earth to heaven more and more as
time goes on, and will be sung for eons and for eons. There
can be no higher destiny than that a man should pour out
his full soul in strains of haunting melody; and though Stephen
Foster be dead and "the lark become a sightless song," the
legacy he has left behind him is more priceless and more
bountiful than those of the builders of the pyramids or the
conquests of Napoleon and Alexander.
Murphy, too, is dead, but while he lived, like the grass
hopper "beating his tiny cymbals in the sun," he poured
forth those matchless orisons that none who ever heard them
can soon forget. For, while he was not a creator, he was the
slave and seneschal of the masters who have left their melodies
behind them for the ravishment of a money-mad and sordid
world. And when he drew his magic bow across his violin's
sentient strings, his genius thence evoked sweet strains in
formed with soul to all who had the heart to comprehend their
message and their meaning.
Was it a jig or waltz or stately minuet? one's feet moved
rythmically to the "sweet melodic phrase." Was it dirge,
lament or lovelorn lilt ? one saw again the hearse-plumes
nod, sobbed out his heart with pallid Jeane, or caught the
note of bonny bird blythe fluting by the Doon. Was it mar
tial air or battle-hymn ? then, once again, came forth the
bagpipe's skirl, the pibroch's wail, "what time the plaided
clans came down to battle with Montrose." Again, with
change of air, there dawned once more that "reddest day in
history, when Pickett's legions, undismayed, leapt forth to
ruin's red embrace."

HUMOROUS AND ROMANTIC 351
But best, ah, far, far best of all, was that wonder-woven
race his fine dramatic instinct had translated into song, in
which the section-riven days of 'Sixty-one were conjured
back again from out their graves and ghostly crements, and
masqueraded full of life and hate and jealousy. For then we
saw, as if by magic, the mighty racer, Black Hawk, typifying
the North, and his unconquerable rival, Gray Eagle, the steel-
sinewed champion of the South, start once again on that
matchless contest on the turf at Louisville. We heard again
the wild, divided concourse cheer its favorite steed along the
track, and saw the straining stallions, foam-flecked with
sweat — now neck and neck, then one ahead, but soon overtaken,
and both flying side by side again, their flame-shot nostrils
dripping blood — till Gray Hawk, spent, but in the lead,
dropped dead an inch without the goal, his great heart broken,
as the South's was doomed to be a few years thence, when
"Men saw a gray, gigantic ghost
Receding through the battle-cloud ;
And heard across the tempest loud
The death-cry of a nation lost!"
The Valley of Cousins. Valle Crucis is also called the
Valley of Cousins because of the kinship between most of
its inhabitants. Ex-Sheriff David F. Baird, a descendant of
Bedent, says that all of Valle Crucis between the ford of the
river on the road to Cove creek up to the ford at Shipley's
home was sold by the original Hix who came to this section,
for a shot-gun, a pair of leggins and a hound dog. A man
named Hix was drowned in a "hole" of water in Watauga
river below D. F. Baird's farm, and the place is called the
"Hix Hole" yet. This original Samuel Hix was the first
settler of this valley, but Bedent Baird was not long behind
him. Bedent's son Franklin was the father of David F. Baird,
who was born June 10, 1835, and was sheriff from 1882 till
1886, and from 1890 till 1894. He went with his uncle Joel
Moody to carry the body of Rev. Wm. Thurston from its
place of temporary burial at Valle Crucis to Pittsboro, N. C, in
1856. Another prominent family of this section, which has inter
married with the Baird family, is that of the ShuUs. Fred
erick Shull and his wife came from Germany about the year
1750. He was a weaver and paid for their voyage by weav
ing while his wife worked in the field. Her name was Charity.

352 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Simon Shull was a son of this marriage, and the father of
seven children by his wife, Mary Sheifier, a daughter of
Phillip and Mary Ormatenfer Sheifier. She was born in
Loudon county, Va., May 5, 1772. Simon Shull was born
in Lincoln county, October 24, 1767. Simon ShuU's children
were Mary, Sarah, Phillip, John, Joseph, Temperance and
Elizabeth, born between March 19, 1793, and April 10, 1808.
Joseph was the father of James M. ShuU, and Phillip of
Joseph C. Shull. Simon Shull was married on Upper creek,
Burke county, by Rev. William Penland, March 25, 1790,
and died February 12, 1813.
Other Closely Related Families. Reuben Mast first
lived where David F. Baird now lives, but the place had been
settled before Mast went there. Reuben Mast sold it to John
Gragg about 1849, and moved to Texas, where he died.
Gragg lived there till 1867 and sold to David Wagner, and
moved to Tennessee. David Wagner divided the place
among his three sons, and David F. Baird bought the shares
of John and Daniel Wagner on the east side of the river,
about 1874. He had married a sister of these two Wagners
in 1870. Joel Mast lived below the road at the place where
T. Hardee Taylor lives. David Mast lived where Finley
Mast now lives. John Mast lived at Sugar Grove, while
Noah Mast lived on Watauga river where Wm. Winkler now
lives. These were brothers. Henry Taylor came to Sugar
Grove from Davidson county about 1849 and went into mer
chandising there. He married Emaline, daughter of John
Mast, buying the Joel Mast farm at public auction. Taylor
then moved to Valle Crucis, and bought the place where
his son, T. Hardee Taylor, now lives from Joel Mast about
1850 or 1851. He made his money by selling to those who
earned wages by the building of the turnpike. He was born
August 20, 1819. His wife was born January 5, 1826. They
had six children. After her death, September 21, 1880, he
married Rachel Gray, by whom he had four children. He
died March 6, 1899, and his last wife died March 3 of the
same year. He bought the Ives land from Robert Miller
before the Civil War. Into the valley of Cove creek in 1791
came Cutliff Harmon, from Randolph county, and bought
522 acres from James Gwyn, to whom it had been granted
May 18, 1791, his deed from Gwyn bearing date August 6,

HUMOROUS AND ROMANTIC 353
1791. Cutliff married Susan Fouts, and was about ninety
years of age when he died in 1838, his wife having died sev
eral years before, and he having married Elizabeth Parker,
a widow. He had ten children by his first marriage, none
by his second. Among his children were Mary, who married
Bedent Baird; Andrew, who married Sabra Hix; Eli, who
married the widow Rhoda Dyer (born Dugger); Mathias,
who married and moved to Indiana; Catherine, who mar
ried Benjamin Ward, and went west; Rebecca, who married
Frank Adams and moved to Indiana; Rachel, who married
Holden Davis; Sarah, who married John Mast; Nancy, who
married Thomas Curtis, and Rev. D. C. Harmon, born April
17, 1826, and died December 23, 1904. Among those who
came about the time Cutliff did were the Eggers, Smith,
CounciU, Horton, Dugger, Mast and Hix families. The
farm Cutliff bought is now owned by M. C, D. F. and D. C.
Harmon. "Patch farming" was the rule, the settlers going
to the Globe on Johns river for corn, as they raised only
rye, buckwheat, Irish potatoes, cabbages, onions and pump
kins on the new and cold land of Watauga river. A common
diet was milk and mush for breakfast and soup and cider
for dinner and supper, according to Maiden C. Harmon in
the Watauga Democrat of April, 1891. The intermarriage of
these families has brought about a neighborhood of closely
related citizens, and Cove Creek and Valle Crucis are spoken
of as the Valley of Cousins, Sugar Grove being also a part
of Valle Crucis. Just down Watauga river from Valle Crucis
is another settlement called Watauga Falls. Among the first
to settle there was Benjamin Ward, who had seven sons,
Duke, Daniel, Benjamin, Nicodemus, McCaleb, Jesse and
James. He also had three daughters, one of whom was
named Celia. Benjamin Ward, Sr., was a most enterprising
and worthy man, and his widow lived to be 105 years of
age, while their son Ben lived to be 110. Duke married
Sabra, widow of Andrew Harmon, and moved to Illinois.
Ben. Jr., went to Cumberland gap, and his son Duke came
back and married Lucy Tester; while Amos, son of Duke,
Sr., came back from Illinois and married Sally, sister of Lucy
Tester. They had two sons, L. D. and John, the latter hav
ing been killed before Richmond in 1863.
W. N. C— 23

354 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Samuel Hix, Loyalist. According to Rev. L. W. Far
thing, who was born April 18, 1838, and has lived in Beaver
Dam township and at Watauga Falls postoffice all his long
life, Samuel was the name of the first Hix who came to what
is now Watauga county. He got possession of all of what
is now known as Valle Crucis, including the Sheriff Baird
farm, either by grant from the Crown or from the State, and
was there during the Revolutionary War. Being a Loyalist
he kept himself concealed by retiring to a shanty near Valle
Crucis, still pointed out as his " Improvement." He sold the
Valle Crucis land for a rifle, dog and sheepskin to Benjamin
Ward, the latter later selling it to Reuben Mast. Hix then
got possession of the land at the mouth of Cove creek, but
Ward got this also and sold it to a family named Summers.
This family, consisting of man and wife and five children,
were all drowned in their cabin at night during a freshet in
the Watauga river, and their dog swam about the cabin and
would allow no one to enter till it had been killed. This is
still spoken of as the "Summers Fresh" — the highest anyone
now remembers. The bodies of the family were recovered
and are buried on the opposite side of the river from the
mouth of Cove creek. Samuel Hix in 1816 obtained a grant
to 126 acres, on part of which Rev. L. W. Farthing now lives,
and his grave-stone still stands three miles below St. Judes
postoffice, and a quarter of a mile below Antioch Baptist
church. Benjamin Howard took the oath of allegiance to
the American government in 1778 (Col. Rec, Vol. 22, page
172), but Samuel Hix seems never to have become recon
ciled. Even after the war he hid out, coming home at dark
for his supplies. His five boys were mischievous, and they
manufactured a pistol out of a buck's horn, which they fired
by applying a live coal to the touch-hole, when their father
returned from the house carrying his rations, thus fright
ening him so much that he would drop them and return to
his concealed camp in the mountains. The children of Sam
uel Hix were Golder, David, Samuel, Harmon and William-
Sally, who married Barney Oaks; Sabra, who married Andrew
Harmon, who was killed by a falling tree on L. W. Farthing's
present farm, and Fanny who never married. Samuel Hix
cared more about hunting than anything else, and it was
said he knew where there was a lead mine in the mountains

HUMOROUS AND ROMANTIC 355
out of which he ran his own bullets. James Hix and James (?)
Tester, were drowned in what is still known as the Hix
"Hole" in Watauga river below Sheriff Baird's farm, and
Sam Tester rode his bull into the water in order to recover
the two bodies, about 1835. Samuel Hix had a negro slave
named Jeff, and two apple trees planted soon after his
removal to the L. W. Farthing place, one at Samuel's cabin
and the other at Jeff's, lived till within recent years.
notes.
^'Asheville's Centenary."
*lbid. "Stokes Penland's statement, October, 1912, at Pinola.
4Chapter seven of "Dropped Stitches."
5Account by T. L. Lowe, Esq.
'From "The Heart of the Alleghanies," p. 271.
7So called from its fancied resemblance to a bunk.
»Letter of Col. D. K. Collins to J. P. A., June 7, 1912.
frequently called "mind" for mine.
"Related by Judge G. A. Shuford.
nlbid.12From same letter.
"Minute Docket B, p. 202, Watauga.
¦'Ibid., E, p. 352.
"Statements of J. K. Perry and W. L. Bryan, May, 1913.
'•Statement of W. L. Bryan, July, 1913.

CHAPTER XIV
DUELS
The Law of Dueling. From the beginning of the nine
teenth century the practice of dueling had been common
throughout America, the North, even, not being exempt, as
witness the fatal encounter between Aaron Burr and Alex
ander Hamilton. North Carolina had, in 1802, (Rev. Stat.,
Ch. 34, sec. 3) made it a crime to send a challenge or fight a
duel or to aid or abet in doing either; but, according to the
strict letter of the law, it would be no crime to send a chal
lenge from without the State or to fight a duel on the soil of
another State, and in all the duels fought in this section great
care was taken to go across the State line into either South
Carolina or Tennessee. No effort, apparently, was ever
made to punish those who as principals, seconds or surgeons
had participated in such encounters, it having been considered
that the law of North Carolina had not been violated unless
the duel had actually been fought on its soil. No duel was
fought within the State; but in the Erwin-Baxter and the
Hilliard-Hyman duels, the challenges had most probably been
sent and accepted in Buncombe county. However, as such
matters were of a secret and confidential nature, it is likely
that no evidence of such challenges was ever presented to a
grand jury of that county, as, if it had been, true bills would
doubtless have been returned against those charged with
having sent or accepted the challenges. For dueling was
never approved by the common people of this section, and
its practice was confined strictly to a small class of profes
sional men and politicians. The quarrels of farmers, mer
chants and others were settled in the good old fist and skull,
or rough and tumble, style, in which knives and pistols were
never used. Section two of Article XIV of the Constitution
of North Carolina of 1868 gave dueling its death blow for
ever; for, while there is nothing more sacred than a politician's
honor, prior to 1868 nothing had been found that could pre
vent him from fighting duels for its preservation; whereas,
the moment he discovered that unless he found some other
means of protecting it he would have to forego the honor of
(356)

A. C. Avery.

DUELS 357
holding office in North Carolina, he immediately and forth
with discovered a way!
The Jackson-Avery Duel. At some time prior to the
admission of Tennessee into the Union Andrew Jackson and
WaightstiU Avery, lawyers, fought a duel on "the hill on the
south side of Jonesboro, Tenn. It seems to have been arranged
that neither party desired to injure the other, and both fired
into the air, pistols being the weapons used. John Adair was
Avery's second, Jackson's being unknown.
" There are two versions as to the cause of the duel, the first
being that Jackson had ridiculed Avery's pet authority —
Bacon's Abridgment — and Avery, in his retort, had grown,
as he afterwards admitted, too sarcastic, intimating that
Jackson had much to learn before he would be competent to
criticise any law book whatever. Jackson sprang to his feet
and cried: 'I may not know as much law as there is in Ba
con's Abridgment, but I know enough not to take illegal
fees. ' Avery at once demanded whether he meant to charge
him with taking illegal fees, and Jackson answered 'I do,
sir, ' meaning to add that he had done so because of his ignor
ance of the latest law fixing a schedule of fees. But Avery
had not waited for him to finish his sentence and hissed in
Jackson's teeth 'It's as false as hell.' Then Jackson had
challenged Avery and Avery had accepted the challenge.
When they had arrived on the ground and exchanged shots,
they shook hands; after which Jackson took from under his
arm a package which he presented to Avery, saying that he
knew that if he had hit Avery and had not killed him the
greatest comfort he could have would be Bacon's Abridg
ment.' When the parcel was opened it contained, cut to
the exact size of a law book, a piece of well cured bacon.
"The other version is that Avery promised to produce Bacon's
Abridgment in court the following morning and that Jackson
had gone to Avery's room and removing the book had sub
stituted a piece of bacon in its stead in Avery's green bag.
When Avery opened this bag in court the next day and the
bacon fell out, he was so incensed that he challenged Jackson
at once. The challenge had been accepted and shots ex
changed, whereupon each had expressed himself as satisfied
and the matter ended." :

358 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Col. F. A. Olds' Account. In Harper's Weekly for Decem
ber 31, 1904, is an account of this duel which had and still has
the approval of Hon. Alfonzo C. Avery, oldest descendant then
living of Hon. WaightstiU Avery. It contains the challenge,
which follows: August 12, 1788.
Sir: When a man's feelings & character are injured he ought to seek a
speedy redress; you reed a few lines from me yesterday & undoubtedly
you understand me. My character you have Injured; and further you
have insulted me in the presence of a court and a large audience. I
therefore call upon you as a gentleman to give me satisfaction for the
same. I further call upon you to give me an answer immediately with
out Equivocation and I hope you can do without dinner until the busi
ness is done; for it is consistent with the character of a gentleman when
he Injures a man to make speedy reparation; therefore I hope you will
not fail in meeting me this day from yr Hbl. St.
Col. Avery. Yrs. Andw. Jackson.
"P. S. — This Evening after court is adjourned."
The Facts of the Case. These were told to Judge A.
C. Avery by his father Col. Isaac T. Avery, who was the
only son of WaightstiU Avery. "When the latter practiced
law in Mecklenburg, N. C, he and young Jackson were well
acquainted. Avery was elected in 1777 the first attorney
general of North Carolina. He afterwards married a lady
who lived near Newberne, in Jones county, and soon after
this marriage resigned and settled in Jones, becoming colonel
of that county's regiment of militia. His command was not
in active service during the Revolution, except in some occa
sional troubles with the Tories, until it was called out when
Lord Cornwallis invaded North Carolina. . . . He secured
the passage of a bill creating the county of Washington, which
embraced the whole State of Tennessee, and then became the
leading member of the bar at Jonesboro, which was the county
seat. At the close of the Revolutionary War Andrew Jackson
went to Burke county and applied to WaightstiU Avery to
take him as a boarder at his country home and instruct him
as a law student. Col. Avery told him he had just moved
to the place, and had built nothing but cabins, and could not
grant his request. Jackson went to Salisbury, studied law
there [under Judge Spruce McCay], and settled at Jonesboro,
until the new county of Davidson (with Nashville as the county
seat) was established. . . . Just before the challenge to

DUELS 359
fight was sent by Jackson, Avery appeared in some lawsuit
at Jonesboro as opposing counsel to Jackson, and ridiculed
the position taken by Jackson, who had preceded him in
argument. Jackson considered the argument insulting and
sent him the challenge. Col. Avery was raised a Puritan.
He graduated at Princeton with the highest honors in 1766,
and remained there a year as a tutor, under the celebrated
Jonathan Edwards and the famous Dr. Witherspoon, who
signed the Declaration of Independence as a representative
of New Jersey. Avery was a Presbyterian and opposed on
principle to dueling, but he so far yielded to the imperious
custom of the time as to accept the challenge and go to the
field, with Colonel, afterwards Governor, Adair of Kentucky
as his second. After the usual preliminaries he allowed
Jackson to shoot at him, but did not return the fire. There
upon, having shown that he was not afraid to be shot at,
Avery walked up to young Jackson and delivered a lecture
to him, very much in the style a father would use in lecturing
a son. Avery was very calm, and his talk to the brave young
man who had fired at him was full of good sense, dispassion
ate and high in tone, and was heard with great attention by
the seconds of both parties, who agreed that the trouble must
go no further, but should end at this point, and so then and
there a reconciliation was effected between these two brave
spirits. Col. Avery took the challenge home and filed it, as
he was accustomed to file all his letters and papers, endorsing
it 'Challenge from Andrew Jackson.'"
The Vance-Carson Duel. To the late Silas McDowell
of Macon county we are indebted for many facts concerning
the duel between Dr. Robert Brank Vance of Buncombe
and Hon. Samuel P. Carson of Burke. Mr. McDowell was
the friend of both these gentlemen; and, although he waited
forty-nine years after the duel had been fought, and he him
self was in his eighty-first year before committing his recol
lection of that lamentable event to paper, it must be accepted
as the most authentic, because the only, account now avail
able of that affair. Hon. A. C. Avery of Morganton, in an arti
cle published in the North Carolina Review (Raleigh) for
March, 1913, has supplemented this statement with many
important facts bearing on the principals and seconds con
cerned; and from these two statements the following facts
have been carefully compiled:

360 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Samuel P. Carson. He was the son of Col. John Carson
and of his wife, who, before her marriage to him, had been
the widow of the late Gen. Joseph McDowell of Pleasant
Gardens, N. C. He, like his father, was a Democrat, and
was young, handsome, eloquent, magnetic, blessed with a
charming voice, delighting in all the pleasures and oppor
tunities of a healthful, vigorous physique. He was educated
at the "Old Field Schools" of the neighborhood till he reached
his nineteenth year, when he was taken into the family of his
half brother, Joseph M. Carson, where he was taught gram
mar and directed in a course of reading with an eye to politi
cal advancement; and before he was 22 years of age he repre
sented the county of Burke in the legislature, defeating 'his
kinsman James R. McDowell for that place. He was born
about the year 1797, and was about four years younger than
Dr. Vance. Even when a boy he was a great favorite not
only with people of his own walk in life, but was worshipped
by the negroes on his father's plantation. His mother was a
Methodist and young Samuel was a great favorite at camp
meetings where his deep-toned and harmonious voice led in
their congregational singing. He was also popular with
ladies. Gen. Alney Burgin. He was Carson's second, and was
a social and political leader of Burke county, having several
times been elected to the legislature. He preserved the chal
lenge which Mr. Carson sent by him to Dr. Vance. This
challenge had been written by Carson at Pleasant Gardens
and was dated September 12, 1827, taken to Jonesboro, Tenn.,
and sent from there in order to avoid a violation of the law
of North Carolina regarding dueling; for he states in the chal
lenge: "I will do no act in violation of the laws of my State;
but as you have boasted that you had flung the gauntlet
before me, which in point of fact is not true; for, in the lan
guage of chivalry, to fling the gauntlet is to challenge — to
throw down the iron glove; . . . but, if you are serious,
make good your boast; throw the gauntlet upon neutral
ground; then, if not accepted, boast your victory." He
notified Dr. Vance that he would pass through Asheville to
meet friends in East Tennessee, where he would spend a week
at Jonesboro, and expected to receive an answer by way of
Old Fort, near which place Gen. Burgin lived. His son,

DUELS 361
Joseph McD. Burgin, was the father of Mrs. Locke Craig,
the wife of the present governor.
Hon. Warren Davis. This gentleman was a South Car
olinian, a cousin of John C. Calhoun, a member of Congress,
a man of decided ability, and "thoroughly conversant with
the intricate rules of the Code Duello. " He was called in by
Mr. Carson as an additional second because Gen. Burgin
was not well versed in the punctillio of the duello, and Davis
"was expected in the arrangements for the encounter and
any correspondence that might ensue, to protect Carson."
Robert Brank Vance. He was born in Burke county
about 1793, and was the son of David Vance, who, after serv
ing as an ensign under Washington, married the daughter of
Peter Brank, who lived about a mile from Morganton, and
fought as captain of a company in McDowell's regiment at
Ramseur's Mill, Cowpens and Kings Mountain, while his
uncle, Robert Brank, for whom Dr. Vance was named, had
the reputation of being one of the most daring soldiers in his
company. Young Vance was a fine scholar as a school boy;
but, owing to an affliction which had settled in his left leg,
that member had been shortened about six inches and so
retarded his physical development that when fully grown
he was only five feet and five inches in height. His face, how
ever, was handsome, and his "mind was of no common order."
His family were Presbyterians and he attended the Newton
academy near Asheville, afterwards graduating from an
unnamed medical school and commencing the practice of med
icine in Asheville in 1818. But, having drawn a five-thousand-
dollar prize in a lottery, and his father having willed him a
large portion of his estate, Dr. Vance purchased a fine library
and retired from practice three years after opening his office.
He was encouraged by his friends, and especially by young
Samuel P. Carson, then in the legislature from Burke, to
oppose Felix Walker, whose popularity then "was in the
descending node," for Congress, but declined to do so till
1823, when he ran for Congress and was elected by a majority
of one vote. It was said that when he appeared in Congress
John Randolph of Roanoke, struck by his diminutive size and
physical deformity, remarked, "Surely that little man has
come to apply for a pension." But Vance soon convinced
the strong men of the house "that Aesop's mind could be hid,

362 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
but not long, under an Aesop's form, and at the close of the term
he had the respect of every distinguished man in the house."
The most important measure before the session was an appro
priation of $250,000 — "and many townships of land" for
Gen. Lafayette; and for this measure Vance voted.
Friends Become Political Rivals. In 1825 Samuel P.
Carson and Dr. Vance were opposing candidates for Congress,
and Carson was elected; but in 1827 Dr. Vance invited some
of his friends to meet at Asheville, and announced that he
would oppose Carson's re-election, and would insist on his de
feat because he had voted for an appropriation of $25,000 to
the citizens of Alexandria, Virginia, which had been recently de
stroyed by fire. To this meeting Silas McDowell was invited, but
his opposition to Vance's idea that Carson could be defeated
because of this vote displeased all of Vance's friends, but
not Vance himself. Vance and Carson accordingly were
opposing candidates in 1827, and at the first meeting at Ashe
ville Carson spoke first; but, in reviewing his course in Congress,
he omitted to refer to his vote for the appropriation for the cit
izens of Alexandria. When Dr. Vance spoke he called atten
tion to the fact that Carson had not referred to that vote,
whereupon Carson answered that the city had been destroyed
by fire and its citizens left homeless and destitute; and that
Vance himself, if he had been in Carson's place, would have
voted likewise, because "I think he has a heart." Vance
retorted that if those who had applauded Carson's statement
"could admire, as some seem to do, the heart promptings
that send a man's benevolent hand into some other man's
pocket than his own, all I have to say about it is — I can't."
Upon this Carson answered that "until Vance should with
draw the charge that he had put his hand into another's
pocket to save his own," they could be friends no longer;
and proceeded to charge Vance with inconsistency as he
himself had voted when in congress for the larger donation
to Lafayette. Thereupon Vance charged Carson with being
a demagogue, and when Carson replied that but for Vance's
diminutive size he would hold him to account for his "vile
utterances," Vance retorted: "You are a coward and fear
to do it." This closed the debate.
The Casus Belli. According to Mr. McDowell, Car
son's failure to challenge Vance, after having been publicly

DUELS 363
called a coward, confirmed Vance in his belief thathe would not
fight; this idea of Carson's cowardice having been suggested
in the first instance by Carson's refusal to accept a challenge
from Hugh M. Stokes, a lawyer, and a son of Gen. Mumford
Stokes of Wilkes, on the alleged ground that young Stokes
had forfeited his right to recognition as a gentleman because
of his intemperate indulgence in strong drink. A second
meeting of Vance's friends was soon held at Asheville, but
from it Silas McDowell was excluded. There it was deter
mined that Vance should attack the character of Carson's
father "on a floating tradition that, after the defeat of our
army at Camden, Carson, with many other hitherto patriotic
citizens of North Carolina, had applied to Cornwallis, while
near Charlotte, to protect their property. The tradition went
so far as to include many of the patriotic men of Mecklenburg
county. Up to this day that tradition is an historic doubt."
But Judge Avery points out that Col. John Carson had been
elected by the people of Burke to attend the convention held
at Fayette viUe for the Constitution of 1787 of the United
States, as a sufficient refutation of the charge as applied to
him. But, at the next joint debate, which was at Morganton,
Vance used these words: "The Bible tells us that 'because
the fathers have eaten sour grapes, their sons' teeth have
been set on edge.' . . . My father never ate sour grapes
and my competitor's father did. ... In the time of the
Revolutionary War my father, Col. Vance, stood up to fight,
while my competitor's father, Col. Carson, skulked, and took
British protection."
The Insult Is Resented. AU of Samuel P. Carson's
brothers were present when this statement was made "and
made a move as though they would attack Vance, when
prominent citizens interfered and the excitement calmed
down." The election resulted in Vance's defeat, three to
one, Vance getting only 2,419 votes. Afterwards, "Col.
Carson wrote Vance an ill-natured and abusive letter, to which
Vance sent the brief reply. . . . 'I can have no alterca
tion with a man of your age; and, if I have aggrieved you,
you certainly have some of your chivalrous sons that will
protect you from insult.' A few days thereafter Gen. Alney
Burgin came to Asheville ... to enquire which one
of Colonel Carson's sons Vance alluded to in his lines to his

364 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
father," and Vance replied "Sam knows well enough I meant
him. " Then the challenge was delivered and accepted.
The Duel. It was agreed that three weeks should elapse
before the duel, which was to be fought at Saluda Gap, on
the line between North and South Carolina, on the Greenville
turnpike. Gen. Franklin Patton was Vance's second and Dr.
George Phillips his surgeon, while Dr. Shuflin was Carson's
surgeon. "A few special friends attended as spectators,
and, though invited by both gentlemen," Mr. McDoweU did
not go. Davy Crockett, who, according to Dr. Sondley, in
"Asheville's Centenary," had married a Miss Patton, of
Swannanoa, is said to have been present as a friend
of Carson's. The distance was ten paces and the firing
was to be done between the words "Fire, One, Two,
Three," with rising or falling pistols. Vance chose the rising
and Carson the falling mode; and at the word "Fire," Car
son sent a ball entirely through Vance's body, entering one
and a half inches above the point of the hip and lodging in
the skin on the opposite side. It does not appear that
Vance fired at all. Vance died the next day, thirty-two hours
after having received his wound, at a hotel on the road,
probably Davis's.
Contrition. When he saw that Vance had been wounded
Carson expressed a wish to speak to him, but was led away;
and before his death Vance expressed regret that Carson had
not been permitted to speak with him, and stated that he
had "not the first unkind feeling for him." Vance also told
Gen. Burgin that he had fallen where he had always wished
to die — "on the field of honor." He was buried at the family
grave-yard on Reems creek.
Carson's Subsequent Career. Mr. Carson went on to
Congress after the duel, was elected a delegate to the State
convention of 1835, moved to Texas and became Secretary
of State in David G. Burnett's cabinet, never returning to
North Carolina. The result of this duel is said to have embit
tered his life. Mr. McDowell hints at an attachment for
Miss Donaldson, the pretty niece of Andrew Jackson; but
Carson died unmarried.
Premonition. It is quite evident that Vance expected to
be killed; for he made his will (dated November 3, 1827)
in which he referred to the approaching duel, and after his death
it was admitted to probate, though, when the court house

DUELS 365
was destroyed in the spring of 1865, the record book containing
it was destroyed. Fortunately, however, a certified copy had
been obtained prior to the fire, which copy is still in existence. 2
Judge Avery also states that Dr. Vance stopped at his father's
house on his way to the dueling ground "and though almost
everyone knew what was about to occur, no allusion was
made to it by the family in conversation with their guest.
The impression was made on some of the family that Vance
seemed sad. Though recklessly fearless, it was natural that
he should seem depressed in view of the prospect that he or
Carson, or both, would probably be killed. "
Vance's Motive. Although Mr. McDowell had been
"excluded" from the second conference between Vance and
his friends at Asheville, he and Dr. Vance lodged at the
same house at Morganton, and he said : "When Vance returned
to our room ... I remarked to him, ' Doctor, you have
this day sounded the death knell over yours or Carson's
grave — perhaps both.' To this Vance answered: 'There
is no fight in Carson. I wish he would fight and kill me. Do
you wish to know why? I will tell you: My life has no
future prospect. All before me is deep, dark gloom, my way
to Congress being closed forever, and to fall back upon my
profession or former resources of enjoyment makes me shud
der to think of. Understand me, McDowell, I have no wish
to kill or injure Carson; but I do wish for him to kill me, as,
perhaps, it would save me from self -slaughter. ' " Would such
a statement have been made except to a trusted friend and
under the sacred seal of friendship?
Col. John Carson 's Implacability. Judge Avery tells us
that, after the Morganton insult, Col. Carson agreed to
forego his privilege of challenging Vance only upon the prom
ise of his six sons that if "Samuel Carson should first challenge
Vance, and, if he should fall, then the oldest son, Joseph
McDowell Carson, should challenge him, and if every one of
the six should fall in separate encounters with Vance, then
the old Colonel should be at liberty to wipe out the insult to
the family by meeting Vance on the field of honor." He
adds: "Vance was not only mistaken in expecting a back
down, but in fact he was provoking a difficulty with six cool
and courageous men, everyone of whom was a crack marks
man." But that was not all. Judge Avery further states
that Warren Davis, Carson's second, refused to "act as his

366 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
second unless he would promise to do his best or use his utmost
skill to hit Vance." Dr. Vance must have known who Davis
was and why he had been brought from South Carolina, as
well as of the marksmanship of the six Carsons; and that he
had deliberately offered a deadly insult to the venerable head
of an old and distinguished family because he believed that
Samuel P. Carson would not fight is almost incredible. That
Dr. Vance should wish to be killed by his boyhood's friend
is even more unbelievable. But, whatever his motive, crit
icism of his conduct was silenced above his open grave; for
he went to his death with a courage that was sublime; and for
more than three quarters of a century censure has remained
dumb, "with a finger on her lips and a meaning in her eyes."
Judge Avery's Account. In his "Historic Homes of
North Carolina" (in the N. C. Booklet, Vol. IV, No. 3) the
late Hon. A. C. Avery recorded the fact that on the night
after the debate between Vance and Carson at Morganton,
Samuel P. Carson, his six brothers and his father agreed that
if the father would not challenge Vance Samuel would do so,
and if he fell each son in succession should challenge Vance
till he should be killed. In the event that all the seven Car
son sons should fall, then, Col. Carson, the father would send
a challenge. It is also stated that Carson went to Tennessee
to send the challenge in order not to violate the law of this
state; and that David Crockett was one of Carson's friends at
the duel. Just before taking his position on the field Carson
told Warren Davis that he (Carson) could hit Vance where-
ever he chose, but preferred not to inflict a mortal wound.
Thereupon, Davis said: "Vance will try to kill you, and if he
receives only a flesh wound, he will demand another shot,
which will mean another chance to kill you. I will not act
for you unless you promise to do your best to kill him." Car
son promised, and Vance fell mortally wounded, Carson la
menting that the demands of an imperious custom had forced
him to wreck his own peace of mind in order to save the honor
of his family. In 1835 Carson was elected to the Constitu
tional Convention of that year. He emigrated to Texas in 1836,
was a member of the Constitutional Convention of 1836 in
that State, and Sam Houston made him secretary of State.
Carson was active in securing the annexation of Texas. The
Biographical Congressional Directory, 1911, says that Carson
"after his retirement from Congress moved to Arkansas; died

DUELS 367
in Hot Springs, Ark., in November, 1840" (p. 532). The
same work (p. 1076) says that Vance "moved to Nashville,
Nash county, where he held several local positions." All
of which is wrong. It does not give the date of his birth or
of his death
The Clingman- Yancey Duel.3 "Although kind, social
and friendly in his private intercourse, Gen. Thomas L. Cling-
man's character is not of that negative kind so concisely
described by Dr. Johnson of one 'who never had generosity
enough to acquire a friend, or spirit enough to provoke an
enemy.' Whenever the rights of his State and his personal
honor were infringed, he was prompt and ready to repel the
assailant. He has followed the advice of Polonius to his son:
' Beware of entrance
Into a quarrel; but being in,
So bear thyself that thy opposer
Will beware of thee. '
"In 1845, Hon. William Yancey, of Alabama, well known
in his day as 'a rabid fire eater,' attempted some liberty with
General Clingman. A challenge ensued. Huger, of South
Carolina, was Yancey's friend; and Charles Lee Jones, of
Washington City, was the friend of Clingman. They fought
at Bladenburg.
"Mr. Jones, the second of General Clingman, in his graphic
description of this duel, published in the Capital, states:
" 'After the principles had been posted, Mr Huger, who had won the
giving of the word, asked, "Are you ready? FIRE !"
"' Mr Clingman, who had remained perfectly cool, fired, missing his
adversary, but drawing his fire, in the ground, considerably out of line,
the bullet scattering dust and gravel upon the person of Mr. Clingman.
After this fire the difficulty was adjusted. '
"Hon. Kenneth Rayner, the colleague of Mr. Clingman
in Congress, who was on the ground, states that ' he had never
seen more composure and firmness in danger than was mani
fested by Mr. Clingman on this occasion. ' On seeing his friend
covered by the dust and gravel, and standing at his post
unmoved he thought he was mortally wounded. He rushed
to him and asked him if he was hurt. 'He has thrown some
dirt on my new coat, ' he replied. ... On other occasions,
as with Hon. Edward Stanley and others, Gen. Clingman
has evidenced a proper regard for his own honor by repelling
the insults of others. "

368 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Erwin-Baxter Duel. At some time between 1851 and
1857 the late Major Marcus Erwin and the late Judge John
Baxter fought a duel with pistols at Saluda Gap on the Green
ville, South Carolina, turnpike. Judge Baxter was shot in
the knuckle of the right hand, the ball ranging up and along
the right arm to the shoulder. It was not a serious wound,
but disabled its recipient for a second shot. It was claimed
by Baxter's friends that he was opposed to dueling, and had
not fired to hit Erwin. Erwin' s friends retorted that if his
right arm had not been pointing toward Erwin when Erwin's
bullet struck Baxter's knuckle, the ball would not have ranged
up it to his shoulder. 4 The late Dr. Edward Jones of Hen
dersonville was Erwin's second and the late Dr. W. L. Hil
liard was Erwin's surgeon. Terrill W. Taylor was Baxter's
second and Dr. W. D. Whitted his surgeon. 5
Result of a Political Quarrel. It is agreed that the
cause of this duel was politics pure and simple; but the special
offence alleged has been forgotten. Judge A. C. Avery
writes :
"My recollection is — in fact, I know — that the duel was fought just
south of our State line at Saluda gap. According to my best recollec
tion it occurred in 1852, soon after Gen. Clingman and others had fol
lowed Calhoun in opposing the compromise measure of 1851 and had
been put beyond the pale of the Whig party, on that account. Marcus
Erwin was editing a, Democratic paper established shortly before that
time in Asheville. My impression is that the name of the paper was
the News. I know it was sent to me at the Bingham School. My im
pression is that Erwin had written some very strong articles or edito
rials advocating the doctrine of State's Rights. Mr. Baxter, who then
lived in Hendersonville, wrote a communication to the Whig paper in
which he criticised Mr. Erwin, calling him the 'Fire-eating Editor of the
News' (if that was the name of the paper); and in answer to him Mr.
Erwin wrote a very caustic criticism of Mr Baxter, in which he said,
enclosing the article, in substance, that Mr. Baxter had called him- a
fire-eater; but that, while he did not devour that element, Mr. Baxter
would find him ready and willing to face it. This editorial, as I recollect
it, called forth a challenge from Baxter, which was accepted and Mr.
Erwin selected Saluda as the place for the duel. Judge Avery thinks
Dr. Jones was Erwin's second and Dr. Whitted of Hendersonville was
Baxter's surgeon, but could not recall Baxter's second."6
"But Dr. J. S. T. Baird, who remembers seeing Judge Baxter at
court while the Doctor was its clerk, between 1853 and 1857, with his
hand bandaged from the effects of the wound, scouts the idea that Baxter
sent the challenge. Elias Gibbs, who now (1912) lives near Henderson
ville, was sitting talking to Mr. Baxter when the challenge came. Col.

DUELS 369
Baxter read the challenge, showed it to him, then tore it into minute
scraps and threw them on the floor. He accepted, and with his second,
Terrell Taylor, father of Mrs. Joseph Bryson, went on horse-back to the
South Carolina line, fearing the law in his own state. His (Baxter's)
wife's suspicions became aroused after he left, so, she with a number of
slaves gathered the torn fragments together and read them, discovering
her husband's whereabouts. Col. Baxter was tinged with Quakerism,
was a very conscientious and honorable man. When it came to fighting
the duel, a large crowd of citizens had learned of it, and were present.
Col. Baxter did not wish to show the white feather by not standing up,
but without any intention of injuring his opponent, shot at his feet."7
Major Erwin was, by many, considered the "brainiest"
man in the State; while Mr. Baxter afterwards moved to
Tennessee where he was made United States circuit judge,
and served with distinction till his death.
The Hyman-Hilliard Duel. In the Summer of 1855
John D. Hyman, editor of the Spectator said in his paper that
the mail service was not as efficiently conducted as when it had
been under the management of the Whigs. Dr. W. L. Hil
liard, now deceased, was then the postmaster, and a partner
of the late Dr. J. F. E. Hardy. 8 Besides this, both were
Democrats. Dr. Hilliard sent Dr. Hardy to Col. Hyman with
a polite request for a retraction and apology, which were
refused. Thereupon a challenge to mortal combat followed,
which was promptly accepted, rifles designated as the weapons,
and Paint Rock on the Tennessee line agreed on as the place
of meeting.
Dr. Hilliard had married the year before Miss Margaret
Love, a daughter of Col. J. R. Love, and was living over the
drug store of Dr. Thomas C. Lester in a brick building, then
on the site now occupied by the Falk Music Store. Between
this and what is now Aston street, then a mere lane, lived
Mr. James Patton. In the rear of Dr. Hilliard's apartments
were his barn and stable, with a single exit, that on South
Main street. The postoffice was just above his house and
on that street. Capt. James P. Sawyer, or Captain Frank
M. Miller, was the clerk in charge.
Now, Col. Hyman and his party had left the day before
the duel was to be fought; but Drs. Hilliard and Hardy and
Col. David Coleman, Dr. Hilliard's second, knew that the
authorities had been informed of the contemplated duel and
that they would be arrested if they should openly attempt to
W. N. C— 24

370 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
leave town. So they waited till nightfall, when they had the
plank from the rear wall of the stable removed and slipped
their horses out into the lane that is now Aston street. They
were afraid also that if they followed the most direct route
to Paint Rock, that down the eastern bank of the French Broad,
they might be arrested. Consequently, they crossed the
French Broad at Smith's Bridge and went down the left-hand
side of the river. But it is forty miles to Paint Rock, and
ride as hard as they could through the dark night, dawn was
breaking when they reached the bridge at Warm Springs.
As the duel was fixed for sunrise the Hyman party began to
fear that the doctor had been arrested, but Col. John A. Fagg,
who lived at Paint Rock, said that he knew Hilliard and
that they need have no apprehensions.
According to the recollection of Francis Marion Wells, now
91 (1912) years old, and living on Grass creek, Madison county,
within less than one mile from where the duel was fought, the
Hyman party arrived at Paint Rock the day before that on
which the duel was to be fought. People living in the neigh
borhood began to suspect the truth, and the authorities of
Cocke county, Tennessee, were notified. So that when the
Hilliard party reached the scene early on the morning of the
day set for the duel, from forty to fifty men had assembled
to see what might occur. Among these were peace officers
of North Carolina. The belligerants, realizing that a duel in
the circumstances would most likely be interfered with by
the authorities of North Carolina or Tennessee, announced
publicly that the effort to have the encounter take place had
been abandoned and all parties started on their return to
Asheville. This seemed to have accomplished its purpose,
for no one followed. But when Hot Springs was reached the
parties merely crossed to the left or western bank of the French
Broad, not for the purpose of ascending the river to Ashe
ville, but of descending it to the Tennessee line by a road lead
ing to the mouth of Wolf creek. As they passed Mr. Wells'
house he noted particularly the men who were present : They
were John D. Hyman and John Baxter, his second, and Dr.
Charles Candler, his surgeon. With Dr. W. L. Hilliard was
his second, Marcus Erwin, 9 and Dr. J. F. E. Hardy, his sur
geon. Col. John A. Fagg was along to show the way. The
duel was fought with rifles at fifty paces just about 100 yards

DUELS 371
over the North Carolina line. Dr. Candler told Wells that
he weighed the powder and lead that went into each rifle. The
road on which the duel was fought is partly grown up now,
coming into the new road in a slightly oblique direction from the
gap of the little ridge. The spot is about one and a half miles
west of the French Broad river. As the party returned Col.
John Baxter shouted to Squire Wells as he passed: "No
body hurt," which proved to be true. Only one shot was
exchanged, a second shot not having been demanded. There
is a tradition that but for the fact that Col. Fagg cried "Halt!"
as the commands to fire were being given, Hyman would prob
ably have killed Hilliard, as the latter fired first, his ball
striking the ground near Hyman's feet. Also that Hyman's
bullet clipped a button from Hilliard's coat.
A One-Sided Duel Across the State Line. All uncon
sciously two men of Cherokee county imitated famous duel
ists of former years by standing in one State and killing a man
in another:
On the 11th day of July, 1892, William Hall and John
Dockery were on the "State Ridge," which is 'the boundary
line between North Carolina and Tennessee. They had a
warrant for the arrest of Andrew Bryson whom they soon
descried coming up the ridge in front of them. They hid
behind a large oak tree until Bryson came within gunshot
range, when Hall told him to surrender. Bryson was then
just over the line and in Tennessee, whereas Hall and Dockery
were in North Carolina. Instead of surrendering, Bryson
started to draw his gun, when he was shot and killed. The
case was tried and the defendants found guilty at the spring
term, 1893, of the Superior court of Cherokee county. x ° A
new trial was granted by the Supreme court at the February
term of 1894, on the ground that at common law there could
be no conviction unless the men who were killed were within
the jurisdiction of the court at the time the shot was fired. l x
The defendants were re-tried and acquitted. The legislature
at its next session passed a statute making such an act
murder. 1 2 NOTES.
'From "Dropped Stitches," Ch. VIII.
2It was probated in January, 1828, and the certified copy was made March 11, 1848.
'Hon. J. H. Wheeler's "Reminiscences."
'Hon. A. C Avery to J. P. A., Dec. 12, 1912. .
6Dr. T. A. Allen of Hendersonville writes, November 12, 1912, that Dr. W. D. Whitted
was Baxter's surgeon and T. W. Taylor may have been his second. But Col. Wm. M.

372 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA

Davies, a distinguished teacher of law at Asheville, was a boy in Hendersonville at the
time, and insists that John D. Hyman was Baxter's second. It is difficult to state posi
tively who the second was.
6Letter from Judge Avery to J. P. A.
7Mrs. Mattie S. Candler's "History of Henderson County," 1912. As Judge Avery
heard of it while he was at Bingham's school and graduated there in 1857. it is clear that
the duel was not prior to that date.
8Dr. Hilliard was born in Georgia in 1823. He practiced medicine in Asheville nearly
forty years, and stood in the front rank. He was a surgeon in the Confederate army
from May, 1861, to August, 1863, when he took charge of a hospital in Asheville. After the
war he resumed practice, and died in 1890. From Dr. G. S. Tennent's "Medicine in Bun
combe," 1906.
•Dr. W. D. Hilliard, Dr. W. L. Hilliard's son, and Theo. F. Davidson, however, agree
in saying that Col. David Coleman was Dr. W. L. Hilliard's second.
k>1H N. C. Reports, p. 909.
H115 N. C. Reports, p. 811.
"Chapter 169, Laws of 1895.

CHAPTER XV
BENCH AND BAR1
First Judiciary Act.2 In 1777 (Ch. 115, p. 281) the
State was divided into six districts, viz. : Wilmington, New
Bern, Halifax, Hillsborough and Salisbury, in each of which
places a Superior court for the trial of civil and criminal
causes should be held, to consist of three judges who were
to hold office during good behavior, the jurisdiction and terms
being prescribed. It is sometimes thought that the Superior
court was not estabUshed till 1806; but that is a mistake; the
act of 1806 having simply prescribed two terms in each county
after having changed the districts into so many circuits (Ch.
693, Laws 1806, p. 1050) but with the same jurisdiction.
County Courts of Pleas and Quarter Sessions. 3 These
courts were provided for in the same chapter, and their juris
diction and terms prescribed. (P. 297, et seq.)
Appeals. Provision was made in the act of 1777 (Ch. 115)
for appeals from the County courts of Pleas and Quarter Ses
sions to the Superior courts, but none from the decisions of
the Superior courts, till 1799. In that year was established
(Ch. 520) 4
A Conference Court, consisting of all the Superior court
judges, who were to meet at Raleigh on the 10th day of June
and December of each year, appoint a clerk and decide all
"questions of law and equity which had arisen upon the cir
cuit before any of the judges of the Superior courts, which
the judge sitting may be unwilling to determine, and shall
be desirous of further consideration thereon, . . . [by] a
conference with the other judges; or where any questions of
law or equity have already arisen on the circuit, and have
remained undecided by reason of a disagreement of the judges
on the circuit. " (See 2nd Murphy's Reports.)
Name Changed to Supreme Court. In 1805 (Ch. 674, p.
1039) "the name and style of the court of conference shall
hereafter be that of the Supreme court of North Carolina,"
and it was made the duty of the sheriff of Wake county to
attend its sessions. It was not, however, till 1818 (Ch. 962)
that the Supreme court, composed of judges elected for the
(373)

374 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
purpose of hearing appeals, etc., alone, was provided for. The
court was to consist of three judges to be elected by the legis
lature and to hold office during good behavior. Terms were
to be held in Raleigh May and November 20th of each year. 3
Tennessee Superior Court.4 "The act of the general
assembly of North Carolina, providing for or establishing a
Superior court of Law and Equity for the counties of David
son, Sumner and Tennessee, was not passed till November,
1778. . . . The first volume of the original record of
the minutes of the Superior Court . . . for the District
of Washington — then the Western District' — at Jonesboro,
shows that David Campbell alone held that court from the
February term, 1788 (which was the first term), until the
February term, 1789, at which latter term the record shows
that Judge McNairy appeared and sat with Judge Campbell."
Judge Spruce McCay. This judge held the second term
of the Superior court of Ashe county, in September, 1907.
He had married a daughter of Gen. Griffith Rutherford, and
lived at Salisbury. 5 It was he who had held the August,
1782, term of the "Court of Oyer and Terminer & Gaol De
livery," in Jonesborough, in what was then Washington Dis
trict, now in Tennessee. "He had the court opened by proc
lamation, and with all the formality and solemnity charac
terizing the opening of the English courts. On the first day
of the term, John Vann was found guilty, by a jury, of horse
stealing, the punishment for which, at that time, was death.
On the same day the record contains an entry to the effect
that 'the Jury who passed upon the Tryal of Vann beg Leave
to Recommend him to the Court for Mercy'; but no mercy
was shown him by 'the Honl. Spruce McCay, Esqr.' .
During the week two more unfortunates — Isaac Chote and
William White — were found guilty of horse-stealing; and, on
the last day of the term (August 20), Judge McCay disposed
of all three of these criminals in one order, as follows : 'Ord.
that John Vann, Isaac Chote & Wm. White, now Under Sen
tence of Death, be executed on the tenth day of September
next.' This is the whole of the entry."6 The author, John
Allison, now a chancellor of Tennessee, says : "It is not
probable that a parallel proceeding can be found in judicial
history." He adds that "tradition in that country gave
Judge McCay the character of a heartless tyrant." But the

BENCH AND BAR 375

juries of that day and section of North Carolina seem to have
been equal to the occasion; for at the same term of court the
following incident is mentioned : "The juries could not be
driven or intimidated into giving verdicts contrary to their
convictions; and whenever they differed with the judge — and
they always knew his views — in a case of weight or serious
results, they would deUberately disperse, go to their homes,
and not return any more during that term of court. In a
case styled 'State v. Taylor,' the record shows that the jury
was sworn and the defendant put on 'Tryal.' Nothing more
appears except the following significant entry : 'State v.
Taylor. The jury having failed to come back into court, it
is therefore a mistrial.' " 7
"Lewis and Elias Pybourn. " At the May Term, 1783, at
Jonesborough, an order was made allowing these men "who
is at this time Lying out" to return home upon giving bond
for good behavior, which, probably was done. But whether
it was done or not, seven years later, at the August term of
the same court, 1790, Elias Pybourn was convicted of horse
stealing, and was sentenced to "the public pillory one hour.
That he have both his ears nailed to the pillory and severed
from his head; that he receive at the public whipping post
thirty-nine lashes well laid on; and be branded on the right
cheek with the letter H, and on his left cheek with the letter
Joseph Culton's Right Ear. At the November Term,
1788, at Jonesborough, Joseph Culton proved by the oath of
Alexander Moffit that he had lost his left ear in a fight with
a certain Charles Young, and prayed that the same be
entered on record, and it was so ordered.
Without Pass or Recommendation. When a stranger
came into the Watauga settlement he was asked to account
for his being there, and if his explanation proved to be un
satisfactory, he was required to give bond for his good beha
vior or to leave. Wm. Clatry was a ' ' trancient person ' ' and was
required to give security for his behavior, and return to his
family "within five months, " he having confessed that he had
left home and taken up with another woman.
However, it is not to Judge Spruce McCay to whom we
are indebted for the following.
A Gruesome Record. At the March Term, 1809, of the
Superior court of Ashe, Judge Francis Locke presiding, the

376 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
case of the State v. Carter Whittington, indicted for perjury
was tried, the following names appearing as those of the
jurors : James Dixon, Charles Sherrer, Daniel Moxley, Jo
siah Connolly, Young Edwards, Alex. Latham, Wm. Powers,
Andrew Sherrer, Chris Crider, Thomas Tirey (Tire?), Charles
Francis, Jesse Reeves. The jury found the defendant Carter
Whittington "guilty in manner and form as charged in the bill
of indictment." David and Elijah Estep, sureties, thereupon
delivered up Carter Whittington, and he was ordered into the
custody of the sheriff. "Reasons in arrest of judgement in
the case of Carter Whittington were filed by Mr. McGimsey, 8
his attorney — after solemn argument, the reasons are over
ruled by the court." " JUDGMENT.
" Fined £10, and the said Carter Whittington stand in the pillory for
one hour, at the expiration of which time, both his ears to be cut off and
entirely severed from his head, and that his ears so cut off be nailed to
the pillory by the officers and there remain till the setting of the sun,
and that the sheriff of this county carry this judgment immediately into
execution, and that the said Carter Whittington be confined until the fine
and fees are paid. . . Solicitor's fees of £1-6-8 paid by deft. "
The Unwritten Law in 1811. 9 At the March term, 1811,
of the Superior court of Ashe, Samuel Lowery, judge presid
ing, an order was made for the removal to Wilkes court, to be
held on the third Monday of March, of the case of the State
v. William Tolliver, indicted for the murder of a man named
Reeves; and the sheriff of Ashe was required to "procure a
sufficient guard of eight men from the proper officers of the
militia to convey safely the said William Tolliver to the
Superior court of Wilkes county," thus indicating either
that there was danger of a lynching or a rescue. Tradition
says that Tolliver was acquitted at Wilkesboro on the ground
that Reeves had attempted liberties with Tolliver 's wife.
Robert Henry of Buncombe defended him.
Hanging of David Mason. When Dr. W. A. Askew was
about fifteen years old he stayed all night with the late James
Gudger, the ancestor of most of the Gudgers of this section,
in what is now Madison county. Young Askew was then on
his way from his home on Spring creek to see the "hanging"
of a man named David Mason who had been convicted of
the murder of his wife by cutting her throat in Haywood county.
Askew rode to "town" (Asheville) with Dr. Montraville W.

BENCH AND BAR 377

Gudger, a son of "Old Jimmie. " The > evidence upon which
Morgan had been convicted indicated that he had slipped up on
his wife while she was carding in her cabin home and killed her.
Pierce Roberts was the sheriff of Buncombe then, and the
execution took place in the woods below and behind Col.
Lusk's residence on College Street, or where J. D. Henderson's
residence now stands — there being two accounts as to its
location. This must have been between 1847 and 1850. When
asked on the gallows if he had anything to say Morgan called
up Aaron Fullbright and another man whose name Dr. Askew
has forgotten and pointing his finger at them said : "You
have sworn my life away. "
Twenty-five years ago (1887), according to Dr. Askew, a
woman in Sevier county, Tennessee, confessed on her death
bed that she had killed David Mason's wife.
Col. Davidson's Recollections of the Bar. The late
Col. Allen T. Davidson, in the Lyceum for May, 1891, says:
"I entered the profession of the law January 1, 1845, with Gen. R.
M. Henry and J. A. B. Fitzgerald as my classmates. We were the stu
dents of Michael Francis of Waynesville. The gentlemen then
in full practice were Joshua Roberts, Geo. W. Candler, Felix Axley, John
Rolen, Michael Francis, N. W. Woodfin, John Baxter, George Baxter,
Col. B. S. Gaither, Wm. Shipp, Gen. R. M. Henry and J. A. B. Fitz
gerald. These constituted the bar and rode the circuit, as we did then,
until about 1855, when Judge A. S. Merrimon, Senator Z. B. Vance,
Maj. Marcus Erwin, Gen. B. M. Edney, P. W. Roberts, and Col. David
Coleman were added to the list. Several distinguished law
yers left the profession just as I entered, Gen. John G. Bynum and Gen.
T. L. Clingman, who, added to the list, made an array of talent and
sound ability rarely met with. The court usually began in
Cherokee (where I then hved) in March and September, and we all
joined and made the circuit from thence eastward to Asheville, where I
usually stopped. We traveled together on horseback, stopped at the
same hotels in the towns, and at the same wayside inns in the country;
and it was not unusual to have ten or fifteen of us together at one of
these country stopping places, where the wit and humor of the profes
sion broke loose in all its force, and good humor ruled the house. It is
a fact that nearly all of those mentioned were gentlemen of fine humor,
and but few given to strong drink, so that the jest and humor were of
the best character, without boistering or noise. Mr. N. W. Woodfin was
remarkable for his humor, clear-cut and original. Mr. Candler excelled
in his country stories . . and when he took the floor he usually
held it in silence till the climax, when there were uprorious bursts of
applause. Mr. J. W. Woodfin was the sunshine of the circle, was always
in a good humor, and told a story well. . . I recall many of the
stopping places, the first going from Asheville being James Patton's be-

378 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA

yond the Pigeon. Here we would meet a good-humored fine old gentle
man as landlord, with his big country fire-places, and roaring hickory
wood fires, a table groaning with all that was desirable to eat, good beds
and plenty of cheer, supper, lodging and breakfast, horse well fed and
groomed, bill fifty cents, and this was uniform for twenty years. So at
Daniel Bryson's on Scott's creek, same fare and same bill. At Wm.
Walker's at Valleytown, one of the best houses in Western North Caro
lina, the bill for man and horse was fifty cents. A great staying place
was N. S. Jarrett's on the Nantahala, at a place called Aquone. Here we
met, here we chased the deer, here we beguiled the trout in that crystal
stream with the fly, here we whiled away many a pleasant summer after
noon in these attractive sports. Good, dear old friends! I can see you
all now10 in fancy; but this vanishes and I remember that you are no
more. ... I must be allowed to close with a general resume in
tended to embrace the years between 1845 and 1861 : the profession was
able, studious, painstaking and thorough. I have been an honest and
careful observer of many deliberative assemblies; have watched with
much care and mterest the application and power of the human mind
so as to learn from careful observation how great men, so-called, look
at subjects and reach conclusions . . . but after all I am bound to
say that the trial of cases in the mountain circuit has impressed me
more than the proceedings of any other body of men I have ever met
for its sincerity, force and logic. Here we were, in a large and extensive
district of country, the courts distantly situated, without books, at each
town finding only the Revised Statutes and perhaps a digest; yet with
these we tried our cases ably and well, and our contentions have been
well sustained by adjudged cases. In court the common law pleading
prevailed, beginning with the writ, thus bringing the defendant into
court. Upon the appearance of the defendant the issues were joined
and the case was ready for trial without circumlocution or clerical tal
ent. The fight was an old-field, drawn out set-to. As Judge Read says :
"We drew the sword and threw away the scabbard; or, in less classical
words, "The Devil take the hindmost." It is a fact, however, that
with all the spirit with which the case was tried, often with the mani
festation of temper, no unkind or angry feeling ever went outside the
court house, and we all closed the circuit to enter our homes as friends."
Judge v. Judge. When the county seat was at Jewel Hill
Dr. J. S. T. Baird was clerk. A church was used for this
purpose and having a window the sash of which was made
to open by sliding along horizontally instead of being
raised, as is usual, the presiding judge, needing air, tried to
raise this sash, and failing kicked a hole in the glass. For
this the late Col. John A. Fagg, then Chairman of the County
Court of Pleas and Quarter Sessions of Madison county, fined
his Honor, the presiding Judge, ten dollars and his Honor
paid it!

BENCH AND BAR 379

Certificate as to Why Right Ear Was Missing. From
the minutes of the County court of Buncombe, October, 1793,
it appears that it was "Ordered by court that Thomas Hopper,
upon his own motion, have a certificate from the clerk, certi
fying that his right ear was bit off by Philip Williams in a
fight between said Hopper and Williams. Certificate issued. "
This was necessary in order that the loss of a part of his ear
might not cause those ignorant of the facts to conclude that
the missing part had been removed as a punishment for per
jury or forgery.
Where the Sow-Skin Lay. As far back as 1840, prob
ably, James Gwynn of Wilkes county was solicitor of this cir
cuit, which embraced all the mountain counties except Ashe.
James Gwynn of the East Fork of Pigeon river, Haywood
county, is a near relative and bears his honored name. He
married a Miss Lenoir of Fort Defiance, and was a man of
very decided ability, though of little education. His spelling
was execrable, but his power over a jury was great. Judge
J. L. Bailey and Gen. Clingman knew and appreciated his
ability, and through them two anecdotes survive. When
Nathan asked David for an opinion of the man who took the
ewe-lamb of another, and David had expressed himself thereon,
then "Nathan said unto David, Thou art the man. " 1 x When
attempting to quote this to a jury Mr. Gwynn got the names
of the principal actors confounded with two other Biblical
characters, and after detailing the circumstances of a hog-
stealing case, pointed with his finger at the defendant and ex
claimed: "As Abraham said unto Isaac, Thou art the man."
The other story was also of a hog stealing case; but had refer
ence specifically to a sow. The sow had been stolen and her
flesh eaten. But the sow's skin had been discovered, and it
was upon it and the place of its concealment near the defend
ant's home, that the solicitor relied for a conviction. "Where,
gentlemen of the jury," he asked impressively, "was the sow
skin?" He raised himself on his toes and shouted the answer:
"Far up under the shadder of the Big Yaller, where the rocks
are rough, and the waters run deep, and the laurels wave
high (crescendo) the sow skin lay!"
Sad Ending of a Prison Sentence. 1 x About the year
1856 or 1857 a talented and highly respected physician of
Hendersonville,by the name of Edward R. Jones took umbrage

380 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
at something a tailor by the name of A. J. Fain had said or
done, both being politicians to some extent. Jones probably
considered Fain his social inferior. At any rate, instead of
appealing to the code of honor, as was the custom of that day,
Dr. Jones entered Fain's tailor shop and literally carved him
to death. He was indicted and the case removed to Ruther-
fordton, where the late Colonels N. W. and John W. Wood
fin defended, while the late John Baxter prosecuted. Jones
was convicted of manslaughter and sentenced to a term of
imprisonment in the Rutherford jail. While serving that
sentence he, in a fit of despondency, cut his throat and died.
Asheville's First Attorneys. "At its first session in
April, 1792, the county court elected Reuben Wood, Esq.,
'attorney for the state.' He is the first lawyer who
appears as practicing in Buncombe county. WaightstiU
Avery, the first attorney general of North Carolina, attended
at the next session of the court and made therein his first
motion, which "was overruled by the court." At this term
Wallace Alexander also became a member of the Buncombe
bar. Joseph McDowell appeared at October term, 1793, pre
sented his license, took "the oath of an attorney, and was ad
mitted to the bar in said county." On the next day James
Holland "came into court, made it appear (by) Mr. Avery
and Mr. Wood, that he has a license to practice as an attor
ney — but had forgot them." He too was admitted as an
attorney of the court. At January court, 1794, Joseph Spen
cer proved to the court that he had license to practice, and
was likewise admitted as an attorney of the court, and at
April term, 1795, upon the resignation of Reuben Wood, he
was elected solicitor of the county. The next attorney admit
ted was Bennett Smith. Upon motion of Wallace Alexander
in April, 1802, Robert Williamson was admitted to the prac
tice. Robert Henry.12 "Then, in July, 1802, on motion of
Joseph Spencer, and the production of his county court
license, Robert Henry, Esq., became an attorney of the court.
This singular, versatile and able man has left his impress
upon Buncombe county and Western North Carolina. Born
in Tryon (afterward Lincoln) county, North Carolina, on
February 10, 1765, in a rail pen, he was the son of Thomas
Henry, an emigrant from the north of Ireland. x 8 When Rob
ert was a schoolboy he fought on the American side of Kings

BENCH AND BAR 381
Mountain, and was badly wounded in the hand by a bayo
net thrust. Later he was in the heat of the fight at Cowan's
Ford, and was very near Gen. William Davidson when the
latter was killed. After the war he removed to Buncombe
county and on the Swannanoa taught the first school ever held
in that county. He then became a surveyor, and after a
long and extensive experience, in which he surveyed many
of the large grants in all the counties of western North Caro
lina and even in middle Tennessee, and participated in 1799,
as such, in locating and marking the line between the State
of North Carolina and the State of Tennessee, he turned his
attention to the study of law. In January, 1806, he was
made solicitor of Buncombe county. He it was who opened
up and for years conducted as a public resort the Sulphur
Springs near Asheville, later known as Deaver's Springs and
still more recently as Carrier's Springs. On January 6, 1863,
he died in Clay county, N. C, at the age of 98 years, and
was 'undoubtedly the last of the heroes of Kings Mountain.
' To him we are indebted for the preservation and,
in part, authorship of the most graphic and detailed accounts
of the fights at Kings Mountain and Cowan's ford which
now exist. He was the first resident lawyer of Buncombe
county." Colonel Davidson's Recollections of Robert Henry.
"I must not omit ... to mention Robert Henry, who lived,
owned and settled the Sulphur Springs. He was an old man when I
first knew him, say fifty years ago [that was in 1891]; he had then re
tired from the profession of the law which he had practiced many years.
This was before I knew him well. He was tedious and slow in conver
sation, but always interesting to the student. He had been a fine law
yer, and remarkable in criminal cases.14 He could recite his experi
ences of cases in most minute detail. He insisted that, underlying all,
there was invariably a principle which settled every rule of evidence
and point of law. I chanced to get some of his old criminal law books,
such as Foster's Crown Law, Hale's Pleas of the Crown, etc., and I
found them well annotated with accurate marginal notes, showing great
industry and thought in their perusal. He had a grand history in our
struggle for independence; was at Charlotte when the Declaration of
Independence was made;15 but, being a boy at this time, he did not
understand the character of the resolutions; but said he heard the crowd
shout and declared themselves freed from the British government. He
afterwards fought at the battle of Kings Mountain and was severely
wounded in the hand and thigh, by a bayonet in the charge of Fergu-

382 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Michael Francis. Col. Allen T. Davidson, in the same
paper, has left this record concerning this man, once known
as "the Great Westerner":
"Michael Francis was a Scotchman, educated in Edinburgh, a thor
ough scholar, was one of those warm hearted, florid Scotchmen so char
acteristic of Bonnie Scotland. He weighed three hundred and thirty
pounds, was one of the most forcible and clear logicians at the bar, was
remarkable for his study and observation of the human mind. He was
always a complete master of the facts of his cases, and was able to de
duce from them the true intent of the mind of the witness, and had a
happy and forcible way of illustrating the methods by which the ordi
nary intellect reaches conclusions. He had studied human nature so
closely that he could divine the secret intents of the heart. As a conse
quence, he was a power invincible before a jury. Added to this, he was
a thorough lawyer, able to cope with the best, and remarkable for his
power of condensation and forcible expression. He was a pioneer in the
settlement of many new points of law in this circuit, as many cases ar
gued by him before the Supreme court will attest. . . He was a
great platform speaker and a leader in the formation of political senti
ment. He was a member of the house and senate and discharged every
public duty with honor and credit. . . . He was my good pre
ceptor whom I have closely studied and tried to follow."
Israel Pickens and Others. x 7 The next lawyers admitted
in that county were, in the order in which their names are given:
Thomas Barren, Israel Pickens, Joseph Wilson, Joseph Car
son, Robert H. Burton, Henry Harrison, Saunders Donoho,
John C. Elliott, Henry Y. Webb, Tench Cox, Jr., A. R. Ruf-
fin, and John Paxton. These were admitted between Janu
ary, 1804, and October, 1812, from time to time. Probably
the most distinguished of them were Israel Pickens, repre
sentative of the Buncombe District in the lower house of the
Congress of the United States from 1811 to 1817, inclusive,
and afterwards governor of Alabama and United States senator
from that State; Joseph Wilson, afterwards famous as a solic
itor in convicting Abe Collins, Sr., and the other counter
feiters who carried on in Rutherford county in the first quar
ter of this century extensive operations in the manufacture
and circulation of counterfeit money; and Robert H. Burton
and John Paxton, who became judges of the Superior courts
of North Carolina in 1818.
David L. Swain. : 7 The first lawyer of Buncombe county
who was a native thereof was the late Gov. D. L. Swain.
Born, as has been already stated, at the head of Beaverdam,

BENCH AND BAR 383

on January 4, 1801, he was educated under the Rev. George
Newton and the Rev. Mr. Porter at Newton Academy, where
he had for classmates B. F. Perry, afterward governor of
South Carolina, Waddy Thompson, of South Carolina, dis
tinguished as congressman and minister to Mexico, and M.
Patton, R. B. Vance and James W. Patton of Buncombe
county. In 1821 he was for a short while at the University
of North Carolina. In December, 1822, he was of the Eden
ton Circuit, and in 1832 became, and for five years continued
to be, a representative of Buncombe county in the House of
Commons of the State, in 1829 was elected solicitor, admitted
to practice law in 1824, became governor of the State. After
the expiration of three successive terms as governor, he be
came president of the University of North Carolina in 1835,
and continued in that place until August 27, 1868, the time
of his death. He was largely instrumental in securing the
passage of the act incorporating the Buncombe Turnpike
Company, and to him more than to any other man North
Carolina is indebted for the preservation of her history and
the defence of her fame. His early practice as a lawyer was
begun in Asheville. For further details than are given here
in regard to the life of this truly great man, the reader is
referred to Wheeler's History of North Carolina, and his
Reminiscences, and to the more accurate lecture of the late
Governor Z. B. Vance on the Life and Character of Hon.
David L. Swain.
"Old Warping Bars."18 Governor Swain was tall and
ungainly in figure and awkward in manner. When he was
elected judge the candidate of the opposing party was Judge
Seawell, a very popular man, whom up to that time, his
opponents, after repeated efforts with different aspirants, had
found it impossible to defeat. "Then," said a member of
the legislature from Iredell county, "we took up Old Warping
Bars from Buncombe and warped him out." From this re
mark Mr. Swain acquired the nickname of "Old Warping
Bars," a not inapt appellation, which stuck to him until he
became president of the University when the students be
stowed upon him the name of "Old Bunk." He continued
to be Old Bunk all the rest of his life. While he was prac
ticing at the bar the lawyers rode the circuits. Beginning at
the first term of the court in which they practiced, they fol-

384 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
lowed the courts through all the counties of that circuit.
Among Swain's fellow lawyers on the Western Circuit were
James R. Dodge (afterwards clerk of the Supreme court of
the State and a nephew of Washington Irving), Samuel Hill-
man and Thomas Dews.
Dodge, Hillman, Swain and Dews. x 9 On one occasion
these were all present at a court in one of the western coun
ties and Dodge was making a speech to the jury. Swain had
somewhere seen a punning epitaph on a man whose name was
Dodge. This he wrote off on a piece of paper and passed it
around among the lawyers, creating much merriment at
Dodge's expense. After the latter took his seat some one
handed it to him. It read :
"Epitaph on James R. Dodge, Attorney at Law.
"Here lies a Dodge, who dodged all good,
And dodged a lot of evil;
But, after dodging all he could
He could not dodge the devil. "
"Mr Dodge perceived immediately that it was Swain's
writing, and supposed that Hillman and Dews had had some
thing to do with it. He at once wrote this impromptu reply :
"Another Epitaph on Three Attorneys.
" Here lies a Hillman and a Swain —
Their lot let no man choose.
They lived in sin and died in pain,
And the devil got his Dews. " 20
Their Lives a Part of the State's History. "Of the
late Thomas L. Clingman, who was for many years a member
of the Asheville bar, the late Gov. Z. B. Vance, who was born
in Buncombe county, and began life as a lawyer in Asheville,
and to whose memory a granite monument upon her public
square is now in process of erection,21 and the late A. S.
Merrimon, chief justice of North Carolina, who studied law
at Asheville and continued his practice here till about 1867,
it is unnecessary to speak here. Their careers have recently
closed and are known to all who care for Asheville or her
affairs." 22
Col. Nicholas W. Woodfin. "Soon after Gov. Swain be
gan the practice, Nicholas W. Woodfin became a lawyer, and
served as the connecting link between the old times and the

BENCH AND BAR 385

modern bar for many years. He was born in Buncombe
county on the upper French Broad river, and began life under
the most unfavorable circumstances, and for awhile labored
under the greatest disadvantages. He became, however, one
of North Carolina's most famous and astute lawyers. But
few men have ever met with such distinguished success at
the bar as he. He was Buncombe's represeiitative in the
State senate in 1844, 1846, 1848, 1850, 1852. In the course of his
career he acquired a large fortune, and owned great quanti
ties of land in Asheville and its neighborhood. With the
practice of law he carried on an extensive business as a farmer,
in which he was famous for the introduction of many useful
improvements in agriculture. He it was who first introduced
orchard grass in Buncombe county, and turned the attention
of her farmers to the raising of cattle on a large scale and the
cultivation of sorghum. " 2 3
He was born in old Buncombe, now Henderson, county,
January 29, 1810, and was married to Miss Eliza Grace
McDowell at Quaker Meadows, near Morganton, the 16th of
June, 1840, afterwards residing on North Main street, Ashe
ville, N. C, now a girls' school, till his death, May 23, 1875,
she surviving him less than one year. He was always identi
fied with any movement for the uplift and progress of his
State, and especially of Buncombe county. Much has been
written of his success as a lawyer, his humanitarianism, his
devotion to his family and his care of his aged parents.
Colonel John W. Woodfin. He was born in what is now
Henderson county in 1818, married Miss Maria McDowell
at Quaker Meadows, and lived in Asheville. He was a bril
liant lawyer, a brave soldier, and formed one of the first com
panies in Buncombe county, saying he had enlisted for the
war. He was killed by Kirk's men at Hot Springs in the
fall of 1863.
The First Trial. 2 4 The first case tried in Buncombe
county was that of the State v. Richard Yardly, in July, 1792.
He was indicted for petit larceny, was convicted, and appealed
to Morgan [Burke] Superior court. The first civil suit was that of
W. Avery v. William Fletcher, which was tried by order of the
court on the premises on the third Monday in April, 1795,
by a jury summoned for that purpose. The first pauper pro
vided for by the court was Susannah Baker with her child.
W. N. C— 25

386 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
The first processioning was in April, 1776, when William
Whitson the processioner thereof returned into court "the
processioning of a tract of two hundred acres of land, on the
east side of French Broad river about one mile and a quarter
from Morristown, the place whereon James Henderson now
lives," dated April 20, 1796. This embraces the property
lying on Park avenue and in that vicinity. Its eastern boun
dary line is formed in part by the Lining Branch, the small
branch immediately eastward of, and for some distance par
allel with, Depot street. The first will admitted to probate
therein was that of Jonas Gooch in July, 1792. 2 5 The first
dower assigned was to Demey Gash, widow of Joseph Gash,
April, 1805."
To Suppress Vice and Immorality. 2 6 Mr. Sondley men
tions also that at the October term, 1800, the Rev. George
Newton, the first Presbyterian preacher in Buncombe, pre
sented to the court a petition from the Presbytery of Con
cord which "humbly sheweth" many gross immoralities as
abounding among our citizens all of which were in violation
of laws already enacted. Wherefore, they asked that those
laws be "carried into vigorous execution." At the January
term, 1801, the court resolved to exert itself to suppress "such
enormous practices."
Judicial Sanction of a Lottery. 2 7 In January, 1810,
the court ordered that the managers of the Newton Academy
lottery "come into court and enter into bond for the discharge
of office and took the oath of office. " This lottery was prob
ably for educational purposes.
"Twenty-Five Lashes on His Bare Back, Well Laid
On. " 2 7 Such was the order of the court in 1799, when the
jury had found Edward Williams guilty of petty larceny.
This was to be inflicted at the public whipping post; but an
appeal was "prayed," and it may be that Edward Williams
got off.
Adjudged Fit "to be Set Free."27 At this term the
court adjudged that Jerry Smith, a slave belonging to Thomas
Foster, was a fit person to be set free and emancipated, and
the clerk was ordered to issue a license or certificate to the
said Jerry Smith for his freedom "during his, the said Jerry's,
natural life."

BENCH AND BAR 387
Buncombe's First Fairs. 2 7 At the July term, 1799, the
court ordered two fairs to be established in Buncombe to
commence the first Thursday and Friday in November fol
lowing and the first Thursday and Friday in June following,
and continue on said days annually, "without said court should
find it more convenient to make other alterations. "
First Case of Mother-in-Law. 2 7 At the July term, 1802,
it was ordered that the deposition of Caty Troxell, to the effect
that her daughter Judith had married John Morrice on the
nineteenth and twentienth of May, 1796, and that fbf two
years they had lived together "for the space of two years
in all possible connuptial (sic) love and friendship," after
which, "without cause assigned or any application for a
divorce," he had "absconded and has never been heard of
by his said wife or any other person." In the description
which followed he is described as having been at that time
"upwards of twenty large odd years of age . . . with
his speech rather on the shrill key. "
Power of County Courts. 2 7 "All the elections to county
offices at this time from sheriff and clerk, register of deeds, cor
oner, entry taker, surveyor and treasurer, down to treasurer
of public buildings and standard keeper, were made by the
county court.
Superior Courts.27 "It will be remembered, too, that
at the beginning the Superior courts were held at Morganton.
In 1806, the legislature of the State, after reciting that 'the
delays and expenses inseparable from the constitution of the
courts of this State do often amount to a denial of justice,
the ruin of suitors, and render a change in the same indispen-
sibly necessary,' enacted 'that a Superior court shall be held
at the court house in each county in the State twice in every
year,' and divided the State into six circuits, of whicht he
last comprised the counties of Surry, Wilkes, Ashe, Buncombe,
Rutherford, Burke, Lincoln, Iredell, Cabarrus and Mecklen
burg, and directed the courts to be held in Buncombe the
first Monday after the fourth Monday in March and Sep
tember." Randall Delk's Conviction.27 "Thus in 1807 was held
Buncombe's first Superior court, in the spring of that year.
The first trial for a capital offence in Buncombe county was
that of Randall Delk. This trial occurred in 1807 or 1808.

388 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Delk had fled after the commission of the offence to the In
dian nation, but he was followed, brought back, tried, con
demned and hung. This was the first execution in Buncombe
county, and took place just south of Patton avenue opposite
to the postoffice. It is said that soon after a negro was exe
cuted in the county, but the third capital execution in Bun
combe is the most celebrated in her annals.
Judicial Murder.27 "Subsequent to the execution of
Delk and between the years 1832 and 1835, inclusive, Sneed
and Henry, two Tennesseeans, were charged with highway
robbery committed upon one Holcombe at the Maple Spring,
about one-half mile east of the [former] city water works, on
the road until recently traveled up Swannanoa. This was then
a capital offence. They strenuously insisted that they had
won from Holcombe in gambling the horse and other articles
of which he claimed that they had robbed him. They were
convicted, however, and hanged in the immediate vicintiy
of the crossing of East and Seney streets. The field here was
until recently known as the Gallows Field. The trial created
intense public excitement, and it has always been the pop
ular opinion that it was a judicial murder. It is said that after
their conviction they sent for Holcombe, who shrank from fac
ing them, and that the subsequent life of this man was one
of continued misfortune and suffering."
Col. A. T. Davidson's Recollection of This Execu
tion. 28 "The first time I ever was in Asheville was in 1835
when I was sixteen years of age. It was on the
occasion of the hanging of Sneed and Henry. The town was
then small; to me, however, it seemed very large. I remember
distinctly Wiley Jones, sheriff, and Col. Enoch Cunningham,
captain of the guard. The religious services at the scaffold
were conducted by Thomas Stradley and Joseph Haskew.
What a surging, rushing, mad, excited crowd! This was
my introduction to the county."
Dr. J. S. T. Baird's Reminiscences. About the year
1855 Know-Nothingism was rampant even in Buncombe, and
Dr. J. S. T. Baird was temporarily won by its wiles; but he
soon deserted. From 1853 to 1857 Dr. Baird was clerk of
Buncombe county court, and was called to attend a term
at Jewel Hill, Madison county. Neely Tweed was the clerk
and Ransom P. Merrill sheriff; the latter was killed by the

BENCH AND BAR 389
former at Marshall in a political quarrel after the Civil War.
Sheriff Merrill made a return on a fi. fa. as follows : "Trew
Sarch made. No goods, chatties, lands or tenements to be
found in my county. The defendant is dead and in hell, or
in Texas, I don't know which." For this facetiousness Judge
Caldwell summoned the sheriff to the bar and gave him a
reprimand. Dr. Baird defeated Philetus W. Roberts, incum
bent, in 1853, J. M. Israel in 1855, and Silas Dougherty
for clerk of court in 1857.
The following recollections of incidents and members of the
bar are taken from Dr. J. S. T. Baird's sparkling "Reminis
cences" [about 1840] published in the Asheville Saturday
Register in 1905.
Court House.
"The court house was a brick building two stories high and about
thirty-six by twenty-four feet in dimensions. The upper room was used
for court purposes and was reached by a flight of stone steps about eight
feet wide, and on the front outside of the building, commencing at the
corners at the ground and rising gradually till they formed a wide land
ing in front of and on a level with the door of the court room. The
judge's bench or pulpit, as some called it, was a sort of box open at the
top and one side, with plank in front for the judge to lay his 'specks'
on. He entered it from the open space in the rear and sat on an old
stool-bottom chair, which raised his head parely above the 'spectacle
board.' There was room enough in this little box for such slim men
as Judge J. L. Bailey, David Caldwell, David Settle and others of their
build, but when such men as Judge Romulus M. Saunders came along
he filled it plumb 'up.' Most of the lower story was without floors or
door shutters and furnished comfortable quarters for Mr. James M.
Smith's hogs and occasionally a few straggling cattle that could not find
shelter elsewhere.
In Terror of the Whipping-Post.
"It will be remembered that in those days the great terror set up
before rogues was the whipping-post where the fellow convicted of lar
ceny got thirty-nine lashes well laid on his bare back with long keen
switches in the hands of the sheriff. This writer never had the heart
to witness but one of these performances. A fellow by the name of Tom
G. had been convicted of stealing a, dozen bundles of oats and ordered
by the court to be whipped. The sheriff, Pierce Roberts, took this
writer and some other boys, and went to Battery Park hill, which was
then a dense chinquapin thicket, and there cut eight of the nicest and
keenest switches to be found and, returning, took Mr. G. from the jail,
placed his feet and hands in the stocks, and stripping him 'stark naked'
from neck to hips, laid upon his bare back thirty-nine distinct stripes
from some of which the blood oozed out and ran down his back. Five

390 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
strokes were given with each switch save the last, and with it four. The
sheriff was merciful and made his strokes as light as possible, yet he gave
him a blooming back to carry out of the state with him, for he went in-
stanter.
"M" for Manslaughter.
"In that day the penalty for manslaughter was branding in the palm
of the right hand with a red hot iron shaped to the letter M. I saw one
fellow taken through this barbarous process and this was enough for me.
He was convicted and ordered to be branded. The sheriff went to the
tinner's shop and procured a httle hand stove filled with good live coals
and brought it into the court room and, putting his branding iron into
it, soon had it to a white heat. In the meantime the prisoner's hand
and arm were securely strapped to the railing of the bar, and then all
things were ready. During the branding- the prisoner was required to
repeat three times the words : 'God save the state,' and the duration of
the branding was limited by the time in which he could repeat those
words. In this case the prisoner's counsel, General B. M. Edney, who
was a rapid talker, had gotten the consent of the judge, inasmuch as
the prisoner was much agitated and slow spoken anyway, for him to
repeat the words for his client. When the hot iron was applied, for some
reason, the general got tangled and his mouth did not go off well, but the
iron was doing its work and the fellow was writhing and groaning all
the same. At this juncture the general sprang forward, and knocking
the iron aside, said : 'Mr Sheriff, you have burnt him enough.' The
judge then taking his hands from over his face, heaved a sigh of relief
and ordered the prisoner turned loose. A story was told of a fellow
who, a few years before this, was branded by the sheriff whose name was
David Tate. The prisoner was a man of wonderful nerve. He felt very
resentful toward the sheriff whom he considered responsible for all his
suffering. When the iron was applied he repeated the required words
three times in a firm voice. Saying : 'God save the State, God save the
State, God save the State,' and then raising his voice to a high pitch he
yelled out : '  d — n old Dave Tate'! This last is tradition. I
will not vouch for the truth of it. Yet grotesque scenes often charac
terized the courts of that day.
Old Lawyers.
"The bar of Asheville in 1840 was not large in numbers but was ex
ceedingly strong in all the qualities that go to make up a grand and noble
profession. General Thomas L. Clingman early turned aside from his
profession and gave his Ufe to politics, in which field he maintained
through a long career and to the day of his death the purity of his es
cutcheon. Although not as magnetic in his personality as some men
yet a wiser statesman or braver soldier or truer, grander man and patriot
North Carolina has never produced. The people especially of Western
North Carolina owe to his memory a lasting monument.
"Ezekiel McClure, was a man of good attainments in the law, but
being enamored of rural life, gave up his profession at an early day and
spent his life quietly in the country.

BENCH AND BAR 391
Not a "Skelper. "
"William WilUams went from the mercantile counter to the bar but
failed to reach 'the top.' I will not class him with the 'skelpers'; but
then he was what Capt. Jim Gudger would term 'shifty.' The word
'skelper' in fox hunter's parlance when appUed to a dog means one that
for want of bottom, cannot come down to 'dead packing' and follow the
game though all its windings and doublings, but short cuts and skims
the high ridges and jumps high to see and catch the game unawares.
Gen. Bayles M. Edney, Wit.
"General Bayles M. Edney was a man of fine physique, who always
kept his whiskers trimmed 'a la mode'. He was of commanding appear
ance and possessed of sparkling wit and infinite and pleasing humor.
He was a stormer before a jury."
The Nominal Fine and the Real Cow. 2 9 One of his
clients in Yancey county, having been convicted, was called
up for sentence. Col. Edney urged in mitigation that he was
a poor man and a good citizen, and the Court said he would
impose a nominal fine of twenty dollars. Whereupon, Bayles
retorted that it would take not a nominal but a real cow to
pay that nominal fine.
Joshua Roberts, Old-Time Gentleman. 3 ° " Mr. Roberts,
about the time of which I [Dr. Baird] write (1840), established a
most pleasant and delightful home on the French Broad, about
where the Southern depot now stands, and there he spent
his life and raised a large family. To bear testimony to the
high character and noble, sterling qualities of such a man as
Joshua Roberts is a privilege of which I am glad to avail
myself. He was truly a model old-time gentleman; a law
yer by profession, though not engaging largely in practice at
the bar. It was said of him, by those who were capable of
judging, that he had no superior as far as knowledge of the
law was concerned. He was especially held in high esteem
by the boys and young men toward whom his manner was
always kindly and gracious. He took great interest and pride
in the institution of Free Masonry and was the first and, for
many years, the Worshipful Master of Mt. Hermon Lodge.
He loved to bring men into the order for he believed in and
practiced its principles.
Another Charming Family. 3 ° " His family consisted of four
sons and four daughters. The sons were Philetus W., John
M., William and Martin; the daughters were Miss Aurelia,

392 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
who married a Methodist minister, Rev. Mr. Wells; Miss
Sarah, who married Mr. John H. Christie; Miss Harriett,
who married Rev. William M. Kerr, well known to many
citizens of Asheville and father of Mr. J. P. Kerr; Miss Jane,
who married Dr. George W. Whitson, who is also well known
to our people.
Philetus W. Roberts.30 "Philetus W. Roberts was an
able young lawyer and was just entering upon a career which
promised great usefulness and success when the Civil War
came up, in which he sacrificed his life for his country. This
writer succeeded him as clerk of the Superior court of Bun
combe in 1853 . . . and I have never known a more
scrupulously honest and conscientious man in all my life."
Otium "Cum" Dignitate. 30 General Robert M. Henry,
who came to the bar some later, was a fine lawyer, but a great
lover of "rest and ease. " He loved to hear and tell good jokes
and laugh in his deep sepulchral tones. From 1868 to 1876
he was solicitor of the Western circuit.
Judge Riley H. Cannon. 3 ° Riley H. Cannon, who came
in about this time, was a modest and even-timed man. He
was not prominent until after the war when he was made a
judge of the Superior courts of the State.
Col. John W. Woodfin.30 Maj. John W. Woodfin came
to the bar, I think, about 1845. He was a man of splendid
qualities all round. He was a magnetic man, a genial, sunny
man. While not possessing the "heft" of his brother Nicho
las as a lawyer, he was nevertheless a fine lawyer and suc
ceeded well in his profession. In his forensic efforts he often
found occasion to deal in bitter sarcasm and keen and wither
ing invective, which he could do to perfection for he was a
master of both. He was a handsome, dashing and brave
man, and gave his life for his country's cause.
"How sleep the brave who sink to rest
By aU their country's wishes blest.
There honor comes a pilgrim gray,
To bless the turf that wraps their clay. "
Col. N. W. Woodfin's Charming Family. 3 ° Mr. Woodfin
married Miss Eliza McDowell, daughter of Col. Charles
McDowell of Burke County. She was a queenly woman
and most gracious and lovable in her disposition. The
family, consisting of three daughters, who are all now [1905]

BENCH AND BAR 393
living in Asheville, are as follows: Miss Anna, so well beloved
by all the people of Asheville; Mrs. Lillie Jones, widow of Mr.
Benson Jones, who died many years ago, and Mrs. Mira
Holland. George W. Candler. 3 ° Almost the exact counterpart of
Mr. N. W. Woodfin was George W. Candler. Here was a
sturdy, stalwart, rugged man of the people, with brawn and
brain to match, a powerful frame encasing a big, warm heart,
and all presided over by a masterly intellect. When he began
to planth imself for a legal battle on the "Serug" style, it
was Uke a mighty giant placing his feet and clothing his neck
and gathering his strength to upturn everything that came in
his way, and he generally did so. He, too, was a close stu
dent of human nature and knew where to feel for a respon
sive chord. This and his exceeding plain manner made him a
"power" before a jury. He generally won his cases. He
was fond of rural life and loved much more to wade in the
creeks and fish than to "bother with courts." We shall see
few, if any, more like him. He was my valued friend and I
cherish with affection his memory.
Non-Resident Lawyers. 3 ° Those who attended the courts
of Buncombe from other counties were: Col. John Gray
Bynum, Col. Burgess S. Gaither, Col. WaightstiU W. Avery,
Col. John Baxter, George Baxter, Esq., Samuel Fleming,
Michael Francis and William Bryson, with occasionally some
others. These were all exceedingly strong lawyers and when
they were all present with our local bar and with such judges
to preside as Romulus M. Saunders or David R. Caldwell or
John L. Bailey or David Settle, John M. Dick or Mathias
Manly, it was "court right and commanded universal respect. "
Sticklers for Fashion as Well as Form. 3 ° The law
yers of that day almost universally dressed in regulation style
and not as they do now. A coat of the finest French broad
cloth of swallow-tail or cutaway style with fine doe-skin cas-
simer pants, silk or satin vest, "nine biler" silk hat, ruffled
and fluted bosom shirt and French calf-skin boots and a hand
some necktie, made up the lawyer's suit.
Young Men of Ability.30 "From about 1849 to 1852,
there came to the bar of Asheville half a dozen young men
who, for brilliancy and real ability, have never been equaled
at any bar in the State, coming as they did so nearly at the

394 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
same time. There were Philetus W. Roberts, Marcus Erwin,
Newton Coleman, David Coleman, Zebulon B. Vance, James
L. Henry, and Augustus S. Merrimon. All these were men
of the first order of ability and those of them who lived to
maturer manhood all made their mark, not only in their pro
fession, but in the councils of the State and nation as well
and some have left their names emblazoned high on the roll
of fame, but of all of those of whom I have written, there is
no one left to greet me today. They have all passed to the
'other shore' and are resting with the great silent host.
May we see them all again in that ' great bright' morning. ' '
Joseph W. Todd, Esq., was born in Jefferson September 3,
1834, was admitted to the bar after the Civil War, in which he
had served gallantly. He is said to have been the only lawyer
who ever told a joke (successfully) to the State Supreme court.
He was never a very ardent student, but his wit, humor and
resourcefulness, at the bar and on the hustings, were marked.
He died June 28, 1909. His contest with the Rev. Christian
Moretz for the legislature in the seventies is still remembered for
the vigor and energy displayed by both candidates. He gave
the name of "red-legged grass-hoppers" to the internal revenue
agents, who, soon after the Civil War, were the first to wear
leather leggins in their peregrinations through the mountains
in search of blockade stills. Those who remember the famous
joint canvass of Gov. Vance and Judge Thomas Settle in the
summer of 1876 for the office of governor will recall that Vance
made much capital of the red-legged grass-hoppers, a name
he applied to all in the service of the general government,
until Settle showed that two of Vance's sons were in the ser
vice of the United States, one in the naval academy and the
other at West Point. Mr. Todd's daughter still preserves a
caricature of this canvass. He married Sallie Waugh of Shouns,
Tenn. "Twenty-Dollar Lawyers." Under the act of 1868-69,
(ch. 46) any male twenty-one years of age could, by proving
a good character, and paying a license tax of twenty dollars —
that was the main thing in the eyes of the carpet-bag legis
lators of that time — get a license to practice law in North
Carolina without undergoing any examination as to academic
or legal knowledge whatever. Under it several lawyers began
practice of this "learned profession." This act, however,
was repealed in 1872.

BENCH AND BAR 395
Marcus Erwin. He was the son of Leander Erwin and a
grandson of Wm. Willoughby Erwin and a great grandson of
Arthur Erwin. His father removed from Burke county to
New Orleans, from which place Marcus was sent to Center
College in Kentucky, where he was a college-mate of Gen. John
C. Breckenridge. After graduation Marcus Erwin was study
ing law in New Orleans when the Mexican War began, in
which he served six months. After this war he came to
Asheville and became editor of the News, a Democratic paper,
after having changed from Whig politics on account of the
acquisition of new territory. His connection with this paper
led to a duel with the late John Baxter. Later he became a
prominent laywer and Democratic leader, and was elected
solicitor of the large district extending from Cleveland to
Cherokee. He was a member of the legislature in 1850,
1856 and 1860. " He was a powerful prosecutor, and maintained
as high a reputation as B. S. Gaither and Joseph Wilson had
established."31 He was a Secessionist, and in the discussion
between himself and Governor John M. Morehead in the State
senate in 1860-61 made an especially powerful and memorable
speech. He joined the Confederate Army and became a major
in a battalion of which O. Jennings Wise, a son of Henry A.
Wise of Virginia, was lieutenant-colonel. This battalion was
captured in the fall of 1861 at Roanoke Island. Major Erwin
"rendered volunteer service subsequently in the southwest.
He ran as a candidate for the Confederate Congress, but was
defeated. In 1868 he cast in his lot with the Republican party,
and afterwards became assistant district attorney of the
United States, where he displayed great ability." He was a
man of varied attainments and versatile talents, and spoke
a number of modern languages. He was familiar with the
best literature and was one of the most effective and eloquent
of political speakers. Governor Vance is said to have dreaded
meeting Major Erwin on the stump more than any other.
Their debates may be likened to the storied duel between the
battle-ax of Richard and the cimeter of Saladin.
Calvin Monroe McCloud. He was born at Franklin, Macon
county, N. C, February 9, 1840, where he obtained only a com
mon school education. He volunteered in the Confederate Army,
where he served till the close of the War. In 1865-66 he studied
law in Asheville under the late Judge J. L. Bailey. On the 5th

396 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
of July, 1866, he married Miss Ella Pulliam, daughter of the
late R. W. Pulliam. He formed a partnership with the late N.
W. Woodfin for the practice of law. He died June 20, 1891.
He was a public spirited citizen and did much to promote
the welfare of Asheville and the community, having been
among 'the first to agitate a street railway, gas, telegraph,
and other enterprises.
Judge Edward J. Aston. He was born in November, 1826,
in Rogersville, Tenn. He married Miss Cordelia Gilliland
in November, 1852, moving to Asheville in 1853, where he en
gaged in the drug, stationery and bookstore business. He
was three times mayor of Asheville and a director of the first
railroad. He was among the first to see Asheville's great
future as a health and pleasure resort. He not only donated
books but supplied the first room for the Asheville public
library. In 1865 he added real estate to his business, and
later on insurance, soon becoming head of the firm of Aston,
Rawls & Co. He is credited with having originated the idea
of making Asheville the sanatorium of the nation. He devoted
much time and large means to the distribution of circulars
and literature setting forth the advantages of this climate.
In 1871 he interested the Gatchel brothers in establishing
the first sanatorium at Forest Hill. Then he got Dr. Gleitz-
man of Germany to open another in Asheville. It was largely
through his influence that the Rev. L. M. Pease established
his school for girls here. He also had much to do with get
ting the late G. W. Pack to build a home in Asheville. Judge
Aston was so called because he had studied law, but had aban
doned the practice. He died in 1893.
Post-Bellum Lawyers. Space can be given to only a
few of the more prominent attorneys who came to the bar
after the Civil War and have passed beyond the nisi prius
courts. William Henry Malone wrote several valuable law
books, his "Real Property Trials" being indispensable; Melvin
E. Carter for years was one of the most prominent and able
of the Asheville bar, enjoying an extensive practice, and
being a sound lawyer; T. H. Cobb was one of the clearest
and most forceful of attorneys; Kope Elias of Franklin en
joyed an extensive practice in Cherokee, Macon, Clay, Gra
ham and Jackson counties. For a sketch of Gen. James G.
Martin, who came to the bar late in life, after the Civil War,

BENCH AND BAR 397
see chapter 27. He was one of the commissioners in the inves
tigation of the Swepson and Littlefield frauds.
Judge John Baxter. He was the son of William Baxter
and Catherine Lee, and was born at Rutherfordton, N. C,
March 19, 1819. He was admitted to the bar in 1840. He
married Orra Alexander, daughter of James M. Alexander of
Buncombe, June 26, 1842. He was a member of the legis
lature from Rutherford county in 1842. He lived for several
years in Hendersonville, but afterwards removed to Asheville.
About 1852 he fought a duel with the late Marcus Erwin,
Esq., and was wounded in the hand. He moved to Knox
ville, Tennessee, in May, 1857. He was a strong Union man
during and before the Civil War. He was appointed United
States Circuit Judge by President Hayes in December, 1877,
for the sixth circuit — Tennessee, Kentucky, Ohio and
Michigan. Some of his decisions are said to stand high
with the English courts. He died at Hot Springs, Arkansas,
April 2, 1886, and was buried in Gray cemetery, Knoxville,
Tennessee. Judge J. C. L. Gudger. He was born in Buncombe
county, July 4, 1837. His father was Samuel Bell Gudger
and his mother Elizabeth Siler Lowery, a daughter of James
Lowery who held a captain's commission in the war of 1812.
He was educated at Sand Hill academy and Reems Creek
high school, now known as Weaverville college. He was ad
mitted to the bar in August, 1860. He enlisted in the 25th
N. C. Infantry July 22, 1861, and served till the close of the
war. He moved to Waynesville December, 1865. He was
married to Miss Mary Goodwin Willis of Buncombe county
August 28, 1861. He was elected judge of the Superior court
in August 1878, and served eight years. He held a position in
the United States Treasury for years. He died January 29,
1913. Judge William L. Norwood. He was born in Franklin
county, N. C, July 1, 1841. His father was James H. Nor
wood, a native of Hillsborough and a graduate of the State
University. In 1846 James H. Norwood moved with his fam
ily to Haywood county and engaged in the practice of the
law, and for several years conducted a classical school. In
1852 he was murdered at Sargents Bluff on the Missouri
river, while serving as agent of the Sioux Indians. W. L.

398 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Norwood was graduated from Bingham's School in 1856, after
which he attended the school of Leonidas F. Siler in Macon
county. He taught school in Haywood county till 1861, when
he enlisted in Arkansas and served throughout the war. He
was admitted to the bar in 1866, and was elected judge of
the Superior court in November, 1894, from which position
he resigned in 1899. On March 4, 1872, Judge Norwood mar
ried Miss Anna Duckworth of Brevard. He died about 1909.
Judge Eugene Douglas Carter. He was the eldest son
of Thomas D. and Sarah A. E. Carter, and was born May 18,
1856, in North Cove, McDowell county, was educated at
Col. Lee's school in Chunn's cove, at Wafford College, at
Weaverville College, and at the University of North Carolina.
He married Miss Sallie M. Crisp in June, 1877, at Fayette-
ville, and began the practice of law at that place, but soon
removed to Asheville, where he was several times elected
solicitor of the Criminal court of Buncombe county, making
an excellent prosecutor. He was appointed by Gov. Russell
in the summer of 1898 to fill the vacancy caused by the sup
posed resignation of Judge W. L. Norwood as judge of the
Superior court. But Judge Norwood denied that he had
legally resigned, and began quo warranto proceedings to re
cover the office, which abated by Judge Carter's death, Octo
ber 10, 1898. Judge Carter evinced throughout his life
a high order of literary and oratorical talent. As an advo
cate he had no superior at this bar.
Judge John Lancaster Bailey. He was born August 13,
1795, in eastern North Carolina; was married June 21, 1821,
to Miss Priscilla E. Brownrigg; was admitted to the bar at some
date prior to 1821 ; was representative from Pasquotank county
in House of Commons in 1824 and a senator in 1828 and 1832 ; was
a delegate to the State Convention of 1835; was elected judge
of the Superior court January 11, 1837, and resigned there
from November 29, 1863, after a service of over twenty-six
years; practiced law at Elizabeth City, and also taught law
there, probably up to the time of his election as judge. It
was about the time of his election as judge or a few years
afterward that he removed to Hillsboro, and with Judge Nash
taught school there. In 1859 he moved to Black Mountain,
near what is now the intake of the Asheville water system
and Mrs. J. K. Connally's summer home, where he taught a

BENCH AND BAR 399

law school from 1859 to 1861. He moved to Asheville in
1865 and taught a law school there until about 1876. He
also practiced law in Asheville in copartnership with the late
Gen. J. G. Martin. He died June 20, 1877. Judge Bailey
was loved and honored by all as an able and upright lawyer
and a worthy and useful citizen. (For fuller sketch see "Bio
graphical History of North Carolina, Vol. IV, p. 52, and Vol.
VI, p. 6.)
Judge Fred Moore was born in Buncombe county on the
10th day September, 1869. He was the son of Daniel K.
Moore, and the grandson of Charles Moore and the great-
grandson of William Moore, one of the pioneers who helped
to drive back the Indians and establish peace in this section.
He attended school at Sand Hill near his home, and was ad
mitted to the bar at the September term, 1892, of the Supreme
court. He spent part of his youth in Macon and Clay coun
ties, and began the practice of the law at Webster, Jackson
county as a partner of his cousin, Hon. Walter E. Moore. In
1893 he removed to Asheville and formed a copartnership
with another cousin, Hon. Charles A. Moore. In 1898 he
was elected judge of the Superior court of this judicial dis
trict. He died in August, 1908. Judge Moore's mother was
a Miss Dickey of Cherokee, and his wife a Miss Enloe of
Webster. He tried many important cases, and his rulings
and decisions were fair and sound. His life was as nearly
blameless as it is possible for human lives to be. When first
made a judge he was probably the youngest who ever served
on the Superior court.
Judge George A. Jones. He was born in Buncombe
county February 15, 1849, a son of Andrew and Margaret
Jones. He attended Sandhill Academy on Hominy creek while
it was open during the Civil War, and early in the seventies
removed to Franklin, Macon county, where he became an
assistant in the high school and later principal. He was
admitted to the bar in 1878, having married in December,
1875, Miss Lily Lyle, daughter of Dr. J. M. Lyle and Mrs.
Laura Siler Lyle, his wife. There were six children by the
union, and after the death of his first wife, he married, Janu
ary 31, 1895, Miss Hattie B. Sloan, by whom he had four
children. She was a daughter of Mr. and Mrs. W. M.
Sloan. In 1889 Judge Jones represented Macon county

400 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
in the legislature. In 1891 he was elected solicitor of
the twelfth judicial district, and was re-elected in 1895,
serving two full terms. In 1901 he was appointed
by Gov. Ay cock judge of Superior court of the newly
created sixteenth judicial district and served about two years,
when he resumed the practice of law at Franklin, where. he
died August 13, 1906.
Judge Robert P. Dick. Judge Dick was for many years
U. S. district judge for the district of western North Caro
lina, having been appointed soon after the close of the Civil
War, and serving continuously till July, 1898, when President
McKinley appointed Hamilton G. Ewart of Hendersonville to
that position; but as the senate failed to act upon this ap
pointment the President sent his name to three successive
sessions of the senate. But as that body persisted in its
refusal either to reject or confirm this appointment, Judge
Ewart's name was withdrawn and that of Hon. James E.
Boyd sent in instead. This appointment was confirmed in
1900, Judge Ewart having served since July 13, 1898. Judge
Dick had a great deal to do with the trial and sentencing of
those who had violated the internal revenue laws, and was
always considerate and merciful in imposing punishment on
the poor people who were found guilty in this court, "thirty
days in jail and a hundred dollars fine" being the almost
universal sentence.
Judge Leonidas L. Greene. He was born in Watauga
county, in November, 1845, and was elected Superior Court
Judge in 1896, and served as such till his death, November 2,
1898. Hon. Charles H. Simonton. Judge Simonton of Charleston,
N. C, was Circuit judge of the United States for a number of
years, succeeding the late Judge Hugh Bond of Baltimore of
KuKlux fame. Upon his death in May, 1904, President Roosevelt
appointed Hon. Jeter C. Pritchard judge of this circuit, and
he was confirmed by the senate without reference to the ju
diciary committee. He qualified June 1st, 1904, having re
mained in Washington as judge of the District court there to
try an important case by special request of President Roose
velt. Colonel Allen Turner Davidson. He was born on Jon
athan's creek, Haywood county, May 9, 1819. His father was
WilUam Mitchell Davidson and his mother Elizabeth Vance

^ <^d$<Zsin^&<ST%

BENCH AND BAR 401
of Burke county, a daughter of Captain David Vance of Rev
olutionary fame. William Davidson, first senator from
Buncombe county and a soldier of the Revolutionary War,
was the father of William Mitchell Davidson, and a cousin
of Gen. William Davidson who was killed at Cowan's Ford.
Col. Allen T. Davidson attended the country schools of his day,
and at twenty years of age he was employed in his father's
store at Waynesville, and in 1842 married Miss Elizabeth A.
Howell. He began the study of law, and in 1843 became clerk
and master in equity of Haywood county, being admitted to
the bar in 1845. In 1846 he removed to Murphy, Cherokee
county, then a remote backwoods place. He at once took
a leading place at the bar of the western circuit, and during
his sixteen years residence there served as solicitor of Chero
kee county, and became one of the leading lawyers of this
section. In April, 1860, he became president of the Mer
chants and Miners Bank. The secession convention of 1861 chose
him one of the delegates from Macon county to the provisional
congress of the Southern Confederacy. He served out the pro
visional term and was elected in 1862 a member of the permanent
congress, serving till the spring of 1864, being succeeded by
the late Judge G. W. Logan of Rutherford county. In 1864-65
he served as a member of the council of Governor Vance,
and at the same time acted as agent of the commissary depart
ment of the State in supplying the families of Confederate
soldiers in this section. In the fall of 1865 he settled in Frank
lin, Macon county, and in 1869 he came to Asheville to live,
buying and occupying the Morrison house, which stood where
the present county court house stands. He soon became
leader of the Asheville bar, and continued in active practice
till 1885, when he retired. He died at Asheville, January
24, 1905.
Following is an editorial which appeared in the Ashe
ville Gazette-News on that date:
"The last survivor of the Confederate Congress is no more. After a
long and eventful life he has now been introduced to the mystery of the
Infinite. He has read the riddle of life in the darkness of death.
He knows it all now. The veil has been lifted and the contracted vision
of earth has been expanded into the measureless profundity of eternity.
Born, lived and died — behold the great epitome of man.
"The announcement of the passing of this historic figure from the
familiar scenes of life will awaken sorrow in many hearts from the Blue
W. N. C— 26

402 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Ridge to the Unakas and the Great Smokies, for it was upon this ele
vated stage that his active life was spent. It was here that he began,
a strong-Umbed herder of cattle upon the verdant slopes and ghostly
balds of the Cataloochee mountains, that career of activity that led him
by successive stages to the bar, to the Confederate Congress, to the chan
cel-rail of the church, and to a warm place in the hearts of many of the
best people of the State.
"Twelve years ago (1893) he stood on the Bunk mountain in Hay
wood county with a boyhood companion (Lafayette Palmer) and pointed
out the place of the lick-logs where he had been wont to repair at inter
vals to tend the cattle pastured there; and, looking fondly around at
the once famiUar scene, said, as great tears streamed down the age-fur
rowed face, 'Good-bye, world!' That was his last visit to that sacred
spot, and he said then that he would never look upon that scene again.
Probably there was no tie that he had to break as age grew upon him
that caused him a sharper pang than the parting from his beloved moun
tains. Certainly no man will be more missed by the people who Uve in
these mountains than this man who bade them farewell so many years
ago. "Col. Davidson was a strong and rugged character. He had strong
passions, strong muscles, strong intellect. He wore his heart upon his
sleeve. He was open and above-board in his likes and disUkes. He was
a true and faithful friend and a bold and unconcealed enemy. Meeting
in mid-life the stormy discords of civil strife in a community rent asunder
over the question of union or disunion, it was inevitable that he should
have awakened animosities.
"But no man had any reason to doubt where Allen Davidson stood
on personal, public or other questions. He spoke his mind freely and
fearlessly. He hated shams and pretenses with holy hatred.
"From 1865 until 1885 he was admittedly the leader of the bar of
what was then known as the Western Circuit, extending to Cherokee in
the west and to Yancey and Mitchell in the north. There was no large
case tried in this section between the years named in which he did not
take a conspicuous and important part. Bold, aggressive and persist
ent, he stormed the defences of his opponents with all the dash and elan
of a Prentiss or a Pinckney.
"Like a true poet he was 'dowered with the hate of hate, the scorn of
scorn, the love of love.' His sense of humor was acute and never fail
ing. No adversity could quench it. Some of his remarks will live as
long as the traditions of the old bar survive. He knew the life and hab
its of the mountain people better, perhaps, than any other man at the
bar, and his speeches always pointed a moral and adorned a tale. Juries
and judges were swayed by his intense earnestness, for he always made
his cUent's cause his own.
"Even in his old age he 'was yet in love with life and raptured with
the world.' He rejoiced in his youth as, with halting foot-step he went
downward to the grave; but for him the evil days came not nor did the
years draw nigh in which he said : 'I have no pleasure in them. ' Strong,
vigorous and healthy in mind and body, he enjoyed to the utmost the

BENCH AND BAR 403

good things of life and made no hypocritical pretense of despising them.
With splendid physical development he towered among his fellows like
a giant, and to him fear was an alien and a stranger.
"He was a kind-hearted and charitable man, loving to give of what
ever he had of worldly goods, sympathy or kindly deeds. He was a
faithful and affectionate husband, father, friend. A commanding and
picturesque figure has passed from our midst."
His widow still survives him, and of his children the fol
lowing still emulate his name and example most worthily:
Hon. Theo. F. Davidson, late attorney general of the State;
Mrs. Theodore S. Morrison, Mrs. W. B. Williamson, Mrs.
William S. Child, Robert Vance Davidson, for several terms
attorney general of Texas, Wilber S. Davidson, president of
the First National Bank of Beaumont, Texas
Judge James L. Henry. He was born in Buncombe
county, in 1838, and received only such education as the
schools of the county afforded. He was a son of Robert
Henry and Dorcas Bell Love, his wife. He was elected Supe
rior court judge of the eighth judicial district in 1868, and served
till 1878, having previously acted as solicitor for that district. 3 2
He was editor at the age of nineteen of the Asheville Spectator,
served in the Civil War as adjutant of the 1st North Carolina
Cavalry, and on Hampton's and Stewart's staffs, and as
colonel of a cavalry battalion stationed at Asheville. He
died in 1885.
Col. David Coleman. He was born in Buncombe county
February 5, 1824, and died at Asheville March 5, 1883. His
father was William Coleman and his mother Miss Cynthia
Swain, a sister of Governor D. L. Swain. He attended New
ton Academy and entered the State University, and just prior
to graduation entered the Naval Academy at Annapolis,
graduated, and served in the navy till he resigned in 1850, return
ing to Asheville and entering upon the practice of law. In 1854
he was the Democratic candidate for State senator, defeating
Col. N. W. Woodfin, and was reelected in 1856, defeating
Zebulon Baird Vance, the only defeat by the people Vance
ever sustained. In 1858 Coleman and Vance were rivals for
Congress, but Vance won. Coleman was one of the few men of
this section who were secessionists, and was appointed to the
command of a ship, but the delays in its fitting out tried his
spirit beyond endurance and he entered the army, and
was assigned to a battalion which afterwards became the

404 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
39th North Carolina regiment, of which he was colonel. He
resumed the practice of the law after the War, and was emi
nent as a lawyer. He was solicitor for a time and represented
Buncombe county with Gen. Clingman in the State convention
of 1875. He was a highly cultivated gentleman, a brave
soldier and a lawyer above all chicanery. He never married.
Gov. Swain was the first boy to enter the State University
from the west, David Coleman was the second, and James
Alfred Patton, a son of James W. Patton, the third. 3 3
Judge Riley H. Cannon. The following extract is taken
from his obituary, written by the Hon. Robert D. Gilmer, late
attorney general of North Carolina: "He was born in Bun
combe county March 26, 1822, went to school at Sandhill
Academy, was graduated from Emory and Henry College,
Virginia; married Ann Sorrels October 18, 1850, to whom
four children were born, namely, George W., once postmas
ter at Asheville, Eva, Lula A., and Laura. He was admitted
to the bar in 1851, was appointed judge of the Superior court
in 1868, and wore the judicial ermine during a troubled period
in our State history. It was said, even by his political oppo
nents, that he never allowed it to trail in the dust of party
rancor or become soiled by the stains of partial rulings. He
was a member of the Methodist Church for thirty years. He
died in that faith February 15, 1886. He was an honest
man." Jacob W. Bowman was born in what is now Mitchell county
July 31, 1831, and died at Bakersville, June 9, 1905. He
married Miss Mary Garland in 1850. He was admitted to
the bar before the Civil War, and was appointed United States
assessor of internal revenue by Gen. Grant April, 1869. Gov
ernor Russell appointed him Superior court judge in November,
1898, to fill an unexpired term. He received the nomination
of the Republicans for the full term, but was defeated by Judge
CounciU, Democrat.
Judge George W. Logan. He was born in Rutherford
county. He lived near the Pools at Hickory Nut Falls, where
he kept a tavern. He was elected to the Confederate Con
gress and qualified in May, 1864. He was a Superior Court
judge from 1868 till his death in 1874.
Judge Joseph Shepard Adams. He was born at Straw
berry Plains, Tennessee, October 12, 1850, and died at War-

BENCH AND BAR 405

renton, N. C, April 2, 1911. His father was Rev. Stephen
B. Adams and his mother Miss Cordelia Shepard. His father
established a school at Burnsville, Yancey county, before the
Civil War, which was known as Burnsville Academy. Joseph
Adams was a pupil at this academy, and afterwards attended
the school of Col. Stephen Lee in Chunn's Cove. He was
graduated with honor from Emory and Henry College, Vir
ginia, in 1872. He studied law at Asheville under the late
Judge J. L. Bailey, and was soon afterwards admitted to
practice, opening an office at Bakersville. He was elected
solicitor of the Eighth district soon after beginning practice
and served in that capacity eight years. In 1877 he married
Miss Sallie Sneed Green of Greensboro, N. C. She died
November 16, 1901, leaving six children surviving. In 1885
he moved from Statesville to Asheville and began the prac
tice of law, which he continued till his election to fill out the
unexpired term of the late Judge Fred Moore in 1908. He
was elected for a full term in 1910.
Alfonzo Calhoun Avery. He was the son of Isaac T.
and the grandson of WaightstiU Avery, and was born at Swan
Ponds near Morganton, Burke county, September 11, 1835.
He died at Morganton, June 13, 1913. He attended Bingham
School in Orange county and graduated from the State Uni
versity as A. B. in 1857, first in his class. He was admitted
to practice before the county courts in June, 1860, and before
the Superior courts in 1866. He was an officer in the Sixth
North Carolina regiment, and later became major and adju
tant general of Gen. D. H. Hill's division. Later he was on
the staffs of Generals Breckenridge, Hood and Hindman.
In 1864 he was made colonel of a battalion in western North
Carolina, was captured near Salisbury by Stoneman's army,
and confined at Camp Chase till August, 1865. In 1861 he
married at Charlotte Miss Susan W. Morrison, a sister
of Mrs. "Stonewall" Jackson, and after her death he
married Miss Sarah Love Thomas in 1889. She was a
daughter of the late Col. W. H. Thomas of Jackson
county. In 1866 he was elected State senator from the Burke
district, and aided in building the Western North Carolina
Railroad to Asheville and in locating the State hospital for the
insane at Morganton. He was presidential elector in 1876,
and in 1878 he was elected judge of the Superior court. In

406 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
1889 he was elected associate justice of the Supreme court,
and resumed the practice of his profession in 1897, at Mor
ganton, and was active till his death. In 1889 the State Uni
versity conferred upon him the degree of doctor of laws, and
for more than twenty-five years he was a ruling elder of the
Morganton Presbyterian church. NOTES .
*A sketch of the judges of this State to 1865 will be found in the fourth volume of
Battle's Digest, by W. H. Battle, Esq., and in Vol. II, Rev. St. N. C, p. 527 et seq., is a
' ' Sketch of the Judicial History of North Carolina, " with a list of the judges and attorney
generals since the adoption of the constitution. It also contains a sketch of the judicial
procedure under the proprietary government. 103 N. C. Rep. has history of Supreme
court. ^Potter's Revisal, p. 281 and p. 1050.
sibid., p. 297.
*Ibid., p. 887.
BChief Justice Pearson is said to have pronounced Judges Leonard Henderson and
John Hall the most profound jurists ever in North Carolina.
^Dropped Stitches.
aPotter's Revisal, p. 1039.
5Battle's Digest.
6Dropped Stitches, pp. 51-52.
'Ibid., pp. 52-53.
BMr. McGimpsy was one of the ancestors of Judge Jeter C. Pritchard of Asheville.
BAshe county record — not paged.
10Soon after the formation of one of the newer counties Judge Boykin gave a defend
ant his choice between thirty days in jail and one week at the only hotel in town. The
defendant chose the jail. This was since the war, however.
1 Recollection of Hon. J. H. Merrimon and Dr. T. A. Allen, Sr.
12Asheville's Centenary.
1 3Thomas Henry also was a soldier of the Revolution, and although he died soon there
after, his name appears as a pensioner. Col. Rec, Vol. XVII. p. 217, where it appears that,
he was paid through A. Lytle £60, 15s, 8d, according to the "Abstracts of the N. C. Line' '
Bettled by commissioners at Halifax from September 1, 1784, to February 1, 1785. He fought
at Eutaw Springs.
i4"I have myself heard my grandfather Michael Shenck, of Lincolnton, N. C, speak
of Mr. Henry as ' a great land lawyer'.' ' D. Schenck, Sr., March 28, 1891, in note to ' ' Nar
rative of the Battle of Cowan's Ford," published by D. Schenck, Sr.
15He said he asked his father what the shouting was about, and he answered that
"They are declaring for Liberty." W.L. Henry's affidavit filed with Mecklenburg Decla
ration Committee in 1897.
iGCol. A. T. Davidson in Lyceum, p. 24, April, 1891.
1 'Asheville's Centenary.
isibid.isibid. 20According to Judge James H. Merrimon, Hillman and Dews lived at Rutherford-
ton. He does not know the given name of Mr. Hillman, but states that Mr. Dew's was
Thomas, and that in crossing the Green river he was drowned while yet a very young man ,
not much if any over twenty-five years of age. He says that the late Mr. N. W. Woodfin
considered Dews the ablest man in the State of his age.
21The reference is to 1898, the monument having been completed in that year
22The same is true of Governor Swain, Generals Sevier, WaightstiU Avery, the two
McDowells, Rutherford, Shelby, Pickens, and others of Revolutionary fame, and little or
no space can be spared in this volume in re-recording what has been already written and
preserved of them.
23Asheville's Centenary.
"Ibid. "Ibid.2«Ibid.27Ibid.2*The Lyceum, April, 1891, p. 23.
"Related by Judge Geo. A. Shuford.
30From Reminiscences of Dr. J. S- T. Baird, published in 1905.
81From Mrs. Mattie S. Candler's History of "Henderson County."
32J. H. Wheeler's "Reminiscences."
asMiss Fanny L. Patton in the "Woman's Edition of the Asheville Citizen," November
28, 1895.

CHAPTER XVI
NOTABLE CASES AND DECISIONS
Not Especially Contentious. Considering our ancestry
and former isolation, we are not more contentious or liti
gious than others of our kind; but it must be admitted that
we sometimes indulge in a lot of unnecessary litigation. Some
of us are accused even of taking delight therein. Mr. J. H.
Martin tells of an old Covenanter who announced with glee
that all his children were married off, all his own debts paid,
and that he had nothing else to do now but "to spend the
balance of his life a-lawin'." Owing to the legislation regard
ing land grants and the registration of deeds, etc., much liti
gation has arisen, notably the large case of Gilbert v. Hopkins,
involving many thousands of acres of land in Graham and
Cherokee counties. That case was tried before Judge Connor
in the U. S. Court at Asheville in 1910, but the jury disagreed.
It was tried again before Judge Boyd at the same place, and
he decided it in favor of defendants, plaintiffs appealing. A
new trial was granted. But as no final decision has been reached
in it, no results can be stated here. In it are involved almost
every point of real estate law possible to arise. Pains have been
taken to refer in this work only to the most notable cases
that have been heard and decided. Each was of interest at
the time it was tried.
Litigation and Legislation. James McConnell Smith was
the first white child born west of the Blue Ridge, in Buncombe
county, but he will be remembered longer than many because of
his will. He died December 11, 1853, leaving a will by which he
devised to his daughter, Elizabeth A., wife of J. H. Gudger,
certain real estate in Asheville, "to her sole and separate use
and benefit for and during her natural life, with remainder to
such children as she may leave surviving her, and those repre
senting the interest of any that may die leaving children."1
A petition was filed in the Superior court asking for an order
to sell this property, and such an order was made and sev
eral lots were sold with partial payments made of the pur
chase money, when a question was raised as to the power of
the court to order the sale of the property so devised. In
(407)

408 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Miller, ex parte (90 N. C. Reports, p. 625), the Supreme court
held that land so devised could "not be sold for partition dur
ing the continuance of the estate of the life tenant; for, until
the death of the life tenant, those in remainder cannot be
ascertained." The sales so made, were, therefore, void.
But years passed and some of the property became quite
valuable, while another part of it, being unimproved, was non
productive, and a charge upon the productive portion. But
there seemed to be no remedy till the city of Asheville con
demned a portion of the productive part for the widening of
College Street. The question then arose as to how the money
paid by the city for the land so appropriated to public use
should be applied. On this question the Supreme court de
cided in Miller v. Asheville (112 N. C. Reports, 759), that the
money so paid by way of damages should be substituted for
the realty, and upon the happening of the contingency — the
death of the life tenant — be divided among the parties en
titled in the same manner as the realty would have been if
left intact.
Upon this hint, on the petition of the life tenant and the
remaindermen, a special act was passed by the legislature
(Private Laws of N. C, 1897, Ch. 152, p. 286) appointing C.
H. Miller a commissioner of the General Assembly to sell the
land, the proceeds to become a trust fund to be applied
as the will directs.
This was done; but the Supreme court (Miller v. Alexander,
122 N. C, 718) held this was in effect an attempted judicial
act and therefore unconstitutional. The legislature after
wards passed a general act, which is embodied in section 1590
of the Revisal, for the sale of estates similarly situated, and
under this authority some of the land was sold and the pro
ceeds were applied to the construction of a hotel on another
part. The proceeds, however, proved insufficient to com
plete the hotel, and in an action brought to sell still more of
this land for the purpose of completing the hotel, the Supreme
court held in Smith v. Miller (151 N. C, p. 620), that, while
the purchasers of the land already sold had received valid
title to the same, still as the hotel, when completed, would not
be a desirable investment, the decree for the sale of the other
land, in order to provide funds for its completion, was void
because it did not meet the statutory requirements that the
interests involved be properly safeguarded.

NOTABLE CASES AND DECISIONS 409
A Long Legal Battle. In July, 1897, the First National
Bank of Asheville failed, and indictments were found in
in Greensboro against W. E. Breese, president, W. H. Pen-
land, cashier, and J. E. Dickerson, a director, for violating
the United States banking laws. 2 In 1909 Breese and Dicker-
son were tried on a new indictment at Asheville before Judge
Purnell, Judge of the United States District court of the
Eastern District of North Carolina, assigned to hold the court
for this trial. The defendants were convicted, but took an
appeal and a new trial was granted. In 1902 Breese alone
was tried at Asheville before Judge Jackson of Virginia, and
there was a mistrial. In the same year the case was sent to
Charlotte and there was another mistrial. He was tried there
again and convicted, and sentenced to seven years in the pen
itentiary; but the court of appeals quashed the indictment
because two members of the grand jury who found the true
bill had not paid their poll taxes. This apparently ended
these cases, as the offences by this time had been barred by
the statute of limitations. But District Attorney Holton
resurrected the indictment found first at Greensboro in 1907, and
Breese and Dickerson were tried at Asheville upon that before
Judge Newman of Atlanta, in the summer of 1909, and convicted.
They were sentenced to two years and to a fine of $2,500
each, but appealed. The court of appeals were unable to
agree and, in November, 1911, certified the case to the Su
preme court of the United States. In the spring of 1912 a
motion was made before that court to advance the case upon
the docket. It was granted and the appeal decided adversely
to the defendants in October, 1912.
The Solicitorship. In the controversies over the Solicit-
orship in this section, between Ewart and Jones, 3 McCall and
Webb, 4 McCall and Zachery, 6 and McCall and Gardner, the
impression has gone out that, in one or the other of these
cases, the Supreme court reversed its holding in Hoke v. Hen
derson,6 to the effect that an office to which a salary was
attached was property, and that the legislature could not de
prive one elected to such an office of his rights by abolishing
the position. This, however, is wrong, as that case was not
overruled until August, 1903, in Mile v. Ellington (134 N. C.
Reports, 131).
Many Legal Points Settled. The Western Carolina

410 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Bank was chartered in 1887 (Ch. 48) and began business in
January, 1889. It failed, however, October 12, 1897, and
its officers executed a deed of assignment to Lewis Maddux,
its president, and L. P. McCloud, its cashier; but the Bat
tery Park Bank and other creditors commenced an action
against the bank for the purpose of setting this deed of assign
ment aside; in consequence of which Judge H. G. Ewart,
judge of the Circuit Criminal court, undertook to appoint
receivers of the property. A few days later Judge W. L.
Norwood, holding Superior court in Clay county, appointed
the same parties receivers, there being doubt as to Judge
Ewart's jurisdiction. 8 George H. Smathers alone, however,
acted as receiver, the others having declined or resigned.
There was a class of creditors which filed a general creditors'
bill between the date of the appointment of receivers by
Judge Ewart and the date of the appointment by Judge Nor
wood, who thus sought to secure priority over the assets not
affected by the lien of creditors who had obtained judgments
before justices of the peace, as many had done; but the Su
preme court refused priority to those thus seeking to secure
it.7 There were many other questions settled in the ensuing
litigation, for Receiver Smathers was removed and W. W.
Jones, Esq., appointed in his place in May, 1902; and he
immediately began to collect the assets of the bank, and to
compel Madison county to pay certain of its bonds which he
held among the assets of the defunct bank. The Supreme
court decided that each stockholder was liable to the extent
of double the amount of his stock. 9 It at first denied the
mandamus asked for to compel the commissioners of Madi
son county to levy a tax to pay its bonds 1 ° but on a rehearing
granted the mandamus. (137 N. C, 579.)
The question as to whether a married woman could escape
her liability as a stockholder was also settled adversely to
such claim. 1 1 In pursuit of the stockholders it became nec
essary for the receiver to get the legislature to pass an act
authorizing him to sue outside the State. 1 2
Linville Litigation. S. T. Kelsey and C. C. Hutchinson
had started Highlands; but Mr. Hutchinson, who was to
have provided the money, found himself unable to do so,
and Mr. Henry Stewart, editor of the agricultural depart-

NOTABLE CASES AND DECISIONS 411
ment of a New York newspaper, bought, through Kelsey,
all the land Hutchinson was to have paid for. Then Stewart
broke with Kelsey and the latter turned his attention to the
development of the Linville country. Mr. S. P. Ravenal,
Sr., advanced $500 for preliminary investigations, which
resulted in the formation, about 1890, of the Linville Im
provement Company with Messrs. Ravenal and Kelsey and
the late Mr. Donald MacRae of Wilmington, N. C, as the
principal stockholders. Neither Ravenal nor MacRae held
a majority of the stock, thus giving Kelsey the balance of
power. There were three distinct lines of policy advocated by each
of these gentlemen. Mr. MacRae wanted to bond the prop
erty for the construction of a railroad from Cranberry; Mr.
Kelsey wished to establish an industrial center at Linville
City; and Mr. Ravenal opposed both, but wanted to estab
lish a health and pleasure resort at Linville City, sell lots and
hold the 15,000 acres of timber land the company had acquired
for future development. After a while Mr. Thomas F. Par
ker succeeded Mr. Ravenal and Mr. Hugh MacRae succeeded
his father, Mr. Donald MacRae. These two could not agree
and Mr. Kelsey, siding with the McRaes, a receiver was applied
for and appointed between September 1, 1893, and September
1, 1894.
These disagreements among the stockholders of the Lin
ville Improvement Company in relation to the general policy
to be pursued by the officers in control, and especially in
respect to the method of liquidating the outstanding indebt
edness and encumbering the property of the company, were
involved in an action brought against that company by T. B.
Lenoir, executor of W. W. Lenoir, and decided by the Su
preme court. (See 117 N. C. Reports, p. 471.) Thomas
F. Parker had been president from September 1, 1893, to
September 1, 1894, and Harlan P. Kelsey secretary for the
same time. A special master had rejected the claims of
these two officers for pay for services during this time, and
the court held that they should have been allowed to prove
that they had a contract for employment with the company
for the entire year and not only up to the time of the appoint
ment of a receiver.
After a while Mr. MacRae offered to sell his interest or buy
that of Mr. Ravenal at a certain price. Mr. Ravenal sold.

412 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
A railroad was finally built to Pinola and Montezuma, two
miles from Linville City. But the golden opportunity had
passed. For, while the company was constructing the Yonah-
lossie turnpike from Linville City around the base of the
Grandfather mountain to Blowing Rock, erecting a fine hotel
and constructing a large dam for a lake at Linville City, the
press was ringing with praises of the beauty of the scenery,
the healthfulness of the surroundings and the general attract
iveness of the place. Visitors came in numbers from various
parts of the country and wished to invest in lots and build
cottages. But, as the property was in litigation, titles could
not be made to the lots, and the boom subsided. Blowing
Rock, however, which before had been a mere hamlet, sud
denly developed rapidly and substantially, and is today one
of the finest and most attractive health and pleasure resorts
in the mountains.
Color of Title. In all countries one who enters upon land
and holds possession under any paper writing of record that
proclaims to the world that he is there by some real or pre
tended authority will secure title by adverse occupancy sooner
than will he who "squats" upon land without any pretence
that he has any right to be there other than his bare posses
sion. In the early days of North Carolina the State granted
large tracts of land to William Cochran and William Tate in
July, 1795; and in July, 1796, just one year later, William
Cathcart secured grants which were found to lap on those
lands already granted to Tate and Cochran. It was impos
sible for Tate and Cochran to put settlers on their lands at
that time, and having the senior grant they rested on their
rights. But Cathcart was unwilling to lose any portion of
the land he had paid the State ten cents an acre for, even
though part of it was already the property of Tate and Coch
ran. So, in September, 1838, he leased all this disputed
land to Abram Johnson, put him in possession of a part of it,
and told him to exercise rights of ownership over as much as
he did not actually occupy as he could. In order to do this
Johnson built a forge near the Old Fields of Toe, and cut
timber and burnt charcoal at many other places on the land.
More than one hundred years after all these grants had been
taken out the Supreme court decided that Cathcart's lease
to Johnson was color of title to the lands described therein,

NOTABLE CASES AND DECISIONS 413
and that his title had ripened in seven years after the date
of the lease and Johnson's entry and occupancy, the lease
having been duly recorded in Morganton. Thus a junior
grant had held over its senior, because of this color of title.
(Cochran v. Improvement Co., 127 N. C, 387.)
Adams v. Westfeldt. As early as 1850 or 1851, the late
Stephen Munday entered land on Little Fork ridge, the Fos
ter ridge, south and southeast of Haw Gap, and south of
Thunderhead mountain, because he believed that copper was
in the land; but positive indications of its existence were not
found until about 1858. The war coming on and interest
dying out, nothing further was done about investigating the
indications until about 1899.
In 1869 George Westfeldt of New Orleans bought, at the
bankrupt sale of E. H. Cunningham, four tracts of land oh
the waters of Hazel creek which had been granted to the
latter. In 1877 Westfeldt, through his agent, Tennent, tried
to locate these tracts, but had to call in Wm. R. McDowell,
who lived near Franklin, to assist. He located them several
miles from where Tennent thought they lay. About 1888
copper was discovered on one of these tracts and men named
Cook, Hall, Mark Bryson and others attempted to find what
grant covered the copper deposit. They discovered that Epp.
Everett of Bryson City had several grants which he had not
succeeded in locating satisfactorily, but which he appeared to
think were several miles from the Westfeldt lands. It was
charged that, in attempting to locate one of these grants on
the copper vein, Adam Wilson had hacked a tree and then
smoked the hacks with pine splinters in order to give the
marks the appearance of age. On the other hand, Adams'
side claimed that persons in the interest of Westfeldt had
chopped the marks entirely out of a corner tree and had car
ried the marks off in the block of wood which had been re
moved. From this smoked tree it was claimed the line had
been run in 1890; but it was not satisfactory, and was aban
doned, until in 1899, when W. S. Adams, of Massachusetts,
bought up the Everett grants and took possession of the cop
per lands. An old man living in Tennessee by the name of
Proctor, who had carried the chain when the Everett grants
were originally located, was brought to the land to help
establish Adams' contention as to the location. Westfeldt

414 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
had warned Adams not to trespass on this land and, in 1901,
he sued Adams in Swain county and won the suit. But a
new trial was granted by the Supreme court on the ground of
the admission of incompetent evidence. The case was, by
consent, removed to Haywood county, where the North Caro
lina Mining Company was made an additional defendant, and
it set up a claim to the land in dispute, under the act of 1893,
for determining adverse claims to real estate. Westfeldt won
again, but the Supreme court granted still another new trial,
because the trial judge had failed to call proper attention to
the difference between substantive evidence and evidence that
went merely to the credibility of a witness. Then the
North Carolina Mining Company brought its bill in equity
in the United States court for the Western District of North
Carolina, to clear the title of the cloud placed upon it by
Westfeldt's claim to the land. Judge Pritchard decided that
he had jurisdiction, notwithstanding the pendency of the ac
tion between substantially the same parties in the State court.
He heard the testimony, sitting as a chancellor, and without
a jury to enlighten the court upon the disputed facts; and a
short time before the case was to have been tried in Hay
wood, he filed his decree holding against Westfeldt.
After several years of effort the Supreme court of the
United States decided that Judge Pritchard had not had
jurisdiction when he took the case from the Superior court
of Haywood county, and in 1910 the cause was tried at
Waynesville, the plaintiff winning. The Supreme court of
North Carolina in 1912 set the verdict aside, however, and
the case will have to be tried again. ' 3 Both Westfeldt and
Adams have since died.
An Erroneous Impression. It is sometimes said that the
Supreme court of North Carolina has decided that a munici
pality may legally freeze a prisoner to death. This is wrong,
the decision in Moffit v. Asheville having held quite to the
contrary (103 N. C, p. 237). It was decided that when
towns are "exercising the judicial, discretionary or legisla
tive authority conferred by their directors, or are discharging
a duty imposed solely for the public benefit, they are not
liable for the negligence of their officers, unless some statute
subjects them to liability for such negligence." Conse
quently, they held that the city was not liable for a severe

NOTABLE CASES AND DECISIONS 415
cold and illness caused to Moffit by confinement, January 5,
1887, in a cell in a room from which window lights had been
broken, the city having provided fuel and a stove and police
officers to keep the room comfortable.
Cranberry Magnetic Iron Mines. From Hon. A. C.
Avery of Morganton it has been learned that about 1780
Reuben White took out a grant for the 100 acres supposed
to cover the iron deposit at these mines, and that Hon.
WaightstiU Avery took out four small grants surrounding the
Reuben White grant. ' 4 In addition, he took out hundreds of
640-acre grants, covering almost all of the North Toe valley
from its source to Toecane, except that here and there along
the valley some older grants intervened. He also took grants
to lands along Squirrel, Roaring, Henson and Three-Mile
creeks, and the lower valley of South Toe and Linville riv
ers. In 1795 William Cathcart took out two large grants,
one known as the "99,000-Acre Tract" and the other as the
"59,000-Acre Tract," which two grants covered practically
all of what is now Mitchell and Avery counties, except
some tracts along the Blue Ridge, and embrace all the
tracts along the streams theretofore granted to WaightstiU
Avery. He devised all these lands to his son, Isaac T.
Avery. A controversy arose between the father of John
Evans Brown, agent for the claimants under the Cathcart
grants, which resulted in the execution of compromise deeds
in 1852, by which I. T. Avery got a quit claim to about
50,000 acres of land, so as to include most of the land de
scribed, including the Cranberry Mines. The Reuben White
tract had in the meantime passed by a succession of con
veyances to William Dugger, who sold his interest to Hoke,
Hutchinson and Sumner; Dugger, Avery and Brown having
entered into a written agreement under which Avery and
Brown were to hold one-half of one-fourth each of the min
eral interest in all the Dugger land outside of the Reuben
White tract. . . . But, before Dugger conveyed to
Hoke, Hutchinson and Sumner, he had contracted to sell to
John Harding, Miller and another, and had put Harding in
possession, so that the Hoke purchase was from Harding and
associates, taking the legal title from Dugger. Judge A. C.
Avery, as executor of his father's (I. T. Avery) estate, gave
notice to Hoke and company of the equitable claim of Brown

416 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
and Avery in three thousand acres, embracing the Cranberry
ore bank, before they bought from Dugger, and in the ensu
ing litigation compelled Hoke and Company to pay between fif
teen and twenty thousand dollars for the Brown and Avery
interests in the Cranberry ore bank.
Before the Litigation Began. Exactly when the Cran
berry Iron mine was first operated cannot be determined
now. Joshua Perkins and a man named Asher built what
was afterwards known as the Dugger mine, on the right bank
of the Watauga in what is now Johnson county, Tenn., and
four miles above Butler. Remains of the old forge are still
visible there, just above the present iron bridge, the forge
itself having been washed away in the freshet of 1886 or 1887.
Tradition says that Perkins and Asher sold this forge to Wil
liam, Abe and John Dugger, and then went to Cranberry
and built the forge there. These Dugger brothers were the
sons of Julius Dugger who owned a farm on the right bank
of the Watauga, opposite Fish Springs; and soon took charge
of the forge Perkins had built at Cranberry. But when
either forge was built "no man knoweth. " Only one fact
could be secured, and that was that in November, 1886,
Joshua Perkins bought a bill of goods at Curtis and Farthing's
store at Butler. All agree that he was then over eighty years
of age, and that he died soon afterwards. Assuming, then,
that he was eighty-six years of age in 1886, and that he was
at least twenty-one when he built the Dugger forge four miles
above Butler, the Cranberry forge most probably was built
not earlier than 1821 to 1825. Benjamin Dugger was also
concerned in this Cranberry forge, but afterwards went to
Ducktown, Tenn. Upon his death John Hardin went into
possession of the mine, either by his own right or as guard
ian of Abie's heirs. It was sold by John Hardin or his son
CounciU Hardin, to Gen. R. F. Hoke for $10,000 and he sold
to the company now owning it. Shep. M. Dugger, in his "Bal
sam Groves of the Grandfather Mountain" (p. 15), says: "In
the year 1850 the now famous Cranberry Iron mines were in
their infantile state of development. The Dugger family
had been the first to build forges and hammer iron in Ten
nessee, and the writer's grandfather and great uncle had now
crossed the line, and purchased the mines and tilt-hammer
forge at Cranberry."

NOTABLE CASES AND DECISIONS 417

The Carter and Hoke Litigation. Thomas D. Carter
had an equitable contract for the sale of a part of the interest
held under bond for title by John Hardin, Miller and another,
and this led to the litigation which culminated in the case of
Thomas D. Carter v. Robert F. Hoke and others (64 N. C. Rep.,
p. 348). It appears that, in May, 1867, the plaintiff agreed to
convey his interest in the Cranberry Iron mines to Gen. Hoke
and others for $44,000, and when he tendered a deed there
for he was given a sight draft on a New York bank for the
amount of the purchase money, which draft was protested
and never paid; but that the reason it had not been paid was
because it had been well understood by the parties to the
transaction that, although it was a sight draft, the funds to
meet it were to have been provided by the proceeds of a sale
of the same property by Hoke and associates to another pur
chaser, which contemplated sale Carter had defeated. Upon
this state of facts a receiver was appointed and the sale of
the property was enjoined. At the Spring term, 1869, of the
Superior court of Madison county, Hoke moved to dissolve
the injunction and end the receivership. Upon the hearing
of that motion it appeared that Hoke and associates had
effected another sale of the property to the Russells and asso
ciates, for $50,000, and they claimed to have been inno
cent purchasers without notice. Judge Henry granted the
motion; but on appeal the Supreme court continued the injunc
tion against a sale of the property till Carter had been paid
and the question as to whether the Russells were innocent
purchasers had been tried. Hoke and company soon after
wards compromised with Carter and the title to the property
was thus settled so far as Carter was concerned.
A Further Story of the Litigation. The interests of
the original purchasers of the White and Avery Ore-Bank
tracts, as well as the interests of the claimants of adjacent
lands under a forge bounty grant (junior to the 59,000-acre
grant of 1796), were sold for partition under a decree of the
Supreme court at its session at Morganton before the Civil
War, and was bought by William Dugger. He subsequently
paid the purchase money and got a decree that James R.
Dodge, clerk of the Supreme court at Morganton, should
make title to him. Before getting his title, however, but
after he had paid the purchase money, William Dugger en-
W. N. C— 27

418 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
tered into an agreement with Isaac T. Avery and J. Evans
Brown that the three should hold an equal one-third interest
in all the mineral outside of the original White Ore-Bank
tract. But this agreement seems not to have been registered;
and, the Civil War coming on, the sessions of the Supreme court
at Morganton were abolished. Then Col. Dodge, the clerk, died
without having made title to William Dugger. Meantime,
Judge A. C. Avery secured through Hon. B. F. Moore an
ordinance of the Convention of 1866 authorizing Mr. Free
man, who was then clerk of the Supreme court at Raleigh,
to make the title to William Dugger which Col. Dodge should
have made. Clerk Freeman made this title to Dugger, but
failed to include in it any reference to the equitable agree
ment which had been made between William Dugger, Isaac
T. Avery and J. Evans Brown to the effect that each should
have a one-third interest in the property outside of the orig
inal White Ore-Bank tract. William Dugger, too, had sold
his interest in the property without excepting the two-thirds
interest equitably owned by Avery and Brown, and executed
a deed therefor. These purchasers were proposing to sell
under their deed from Dugger without notice to Avery and
Brown; whereupon Judge A. C. Avery, as executor of Isaac
T. Avery, who had died, and J. Evans Brown gave notice of
their equity to the proposed purchasers, and thereby com
pelled the purchasers from Dugger to buy their interest in
the property. This covered all interests in the property. * 5
The Nantahala Talc Case. About 1895 or 1896 there
was considerable litigation over the rich and valuable talc
and marble mine or quarry at Hewitts in Swain county.
Thomas and others had bought from the late Alexander P.
Munday, as executor of the late Nimrod S. Jarrett. The
Nantahala Marble and Talc Company of Atlanta had also
bought land adjoining from the same party. On a question
of the location of a boundary line between these properties
the case was tried at Asheville before the late Judge Paul,
United States district judge of Virginia, who had been trans
ferred to this jurisdiction for the purpose of hearing this case.
He decided it in favor of Thomas and his co-plaintiffs; and
it was appealed to the circuit court of appeals, where in Feb
ruary, 1901, this decision was sustained. (106 Fed. Rep.,
p. 379, and 76 Fed. Rep., p. 59.)

NOTABLE CASES AND DECISIONS 419

notes.
1Uts. Elizabeth Smith died in October, 1912.
2W. H. Penland, having agreed to furnish valuable information to the government,
was not tried.
s116 N. C, 570.
'126 N. C, 760.
B4 Dev., p. 1.
6Dev., p. 1.
'Fisher v. Bank, 132 N. C, 769.
*Bank v. Bank, 127 N. C. Rep., 432.
'Smathers v. Bank, 135 N. C, 410.
lcJones v. Com., 135 N. C. Rep., p. 215.
"Bank v. Maddux, 156 N. C.
"Pub. Laws 1903, Ch. 283.
I3ln this decision it was held that lands in the vacant and unsurveyed class as shown
on the maps required to be made by the act of 1836 and deposited in register of deeds office
at Franklin were subject to entry, Justice Walker discussing the matter fully.
1ACochrans v. Improvement Co., 127 N. C, 387, and Dugger v. Robbins, 100 N. C, 1.
1'Letter of Hon. A. C. Avery to J. P. A., February 7, 1913.

CHAPTER XVII
SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES
A Laggard in Education. North Carolina has little rea
son to be proud of her early history in the cause of educa
tion. For years there was greater illiteracy in this State than
in any other, and the improvement of late years has not been
any greater than it should have been. In 1816 the legislature
appointed a committee with Archibald D. Murphey at its head to
suggest a plan for State education. The plan suggested in 1817
provided for primary schools in each county and for ten acad
emies in different parts of the State, with the State Univer
sity at the head. A school for deaf, dumb and blind was pro
vided for and the children of the poor were to be supported
while at school. But this benevolent scheme to provide for
the children of the poor defeated the entire plan. 1
The Literary Fund. In 1825 the legislature created a
literary fund which was to come from the sale of swamp lands
and other sources. In 1837 part of a large sum derived from
the United States was added, making the entire fund about
$2,000,000. 2
Public Schools Begin. With the income from this and a
tax voted by most of the counties public schools were begun
in 1840. In 1852 Calvin H. Wiley was elected superintend
ent of public instruction, which office he held till 1865. The
schools grew from 777 in 1840 to 4,369 in 1860. The number
of all students in colleges, academies and primary schools
increased from 18,681 in 1840 to 177,400 in 1860. This ap
plies to the entire State.
Loss of the Literary Fund. The State kept the literary
fund intact during the entire period of the Civil War, keep
ing the schools open and conducting them with such books
as could be provided. It needed the literary fund for the
soldiers in the field, but it would not touch a penny except
to educate its children. But this fund was held by the banks
of the State, and when the Reconstruction legislature voted
not to pay the Confederate debt, the banks were ruined, for
the State owed them large sums. Thus one million, dollars of
the fund was lost.
(420)

SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES 421
The Educational Governor. Gov. Aycock did much for
education during his term from 1900 to 1904. Rural libraries
were started and a loan fund provided.
Pioneer Teachers and Preachers. In 1778 or 1779
Samuel Doak, who was educated at Princeton College, N. J.,
came to Washington county and soon after his arrival opened
a good school in a log cabin on his own farm. This is said to
have been the first real institution of learning in the Missis
sippi valley. In 1788 Doak's school was incorporated by
North CaroUna as Martin Academy. In 1795 the territorial
legislature incorporated Martin Academy as Washington Col
lege, located at Salem, and Doak was made its president. 3
In 1785 the legislature of North Carolina incorporated Da
vidson Academy, near Nashville.
The First Schoolmaster of Buncombe. Soon after the
Swannanoa settlement was established in 1782, a school was
started in accordance with the principles of the Presbyte
rians. " Robert Henry taught the first school in North Caro
lina west of the Blue Ridge. " 4
Old-Field Schools. Col. J. M. Ray gives the following
description of these antiquated methods of teaching the young
idea how not to shoot : In lieu of kindergarten, graded and
normal schools "was the Old-Field school, of which there
were generally only one or two in a county, and they were
in session only when it was not 'crop-time.' They were at
tended by little and big, old and young, sometimes by as
many as a hundred, and all jammed into one room — a log-
cabin with a fire-place at each end — puncheon floor, slab
benches, and no windows, except an opening made in the
wall by cutting out a section of one of the logs, here and there.
The pedagogue in charge (and no matter how large the school
there was but one) prided himself upon his knowledge of and
efficiency in teaching the 'three R's' — readin', 'ritin' and 'rith-
metic — and upon his ability to use effectively the rod, of which
a good supply was always kept in stock. He must know, too,
how to make a quill pen from the wing-feather of goose or
turkey, steel and gold pens not having come into general use.
The ink used was made from 'ink-balls' — sometimes from
poke-berries — and was kept in little slim vials partly filled
with cotton. These vials not having base enough to stand
alone, were suspended on nails near the writer. The schools

422 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
were paid for from a public fund, the teacher boarding with'
the scholars. The common plan was for all to study aloud,
and this was universally so when getting the spelling lesson,
which was the concluding exercise and most exciting part of
the inside program. Two of the good spellers of the school
were appointed by the teacher as captains, and they made
selections alternately from the scholars for their respective
sides in the spelling match. The first choice was determined
by spitting on a chip and tossing it up, the captain tossing it
asking the other 'Wet or dry?' and the other stating his choice.
If the chip fell with the side up as designated, he had 'first
pick' of the spellers, and of course selected the one thought
best. If he lost, his opponent had first pick. Another plan
was 'Cross or pile?' when a knife was used the same way, the
side of the handle with the ornament being the cross. Some
of these. old pedagogues were very rigid in discipline — almost
tyrants — a day without several floggings being unusual. They
sometimes resorted to queer plans to catch up with mischie
vous scholars; one I distinctly remember — it is not necessary to
say why I so distinctly remember it — was to put the school
on its behavior and leave the building, cut around to some
crack or opening and watch inside movements. This watch
ing generally resulted in something.
Old School Games. "The outside sports made bearable
all inside oppression, however. 'Base,' 'cat,' 'bull-pen,' and
'marbles,' were the leading popular games, and were entered
into with a zest and enthusiasm unknown in these times. The
sensational occurrence of the session was, however, the chase
given some party who, in passing, should holler 'school but
ter!' But such party always took the precaution to be at a
safe distance and to have a good start, and stood not upon
the order of his going, but went for all that was in him; for
to be taken was to be roughly handled — soused in some creek,
pond or mud-hole. The pursuers were eager and determined,
sometimes following for miles and miles, and having but small
fear of being punished for neglect of studies. On the con
trary, the offence was of so high an order (and I never under
stood just why) that sometimes the teacher would join in the
race.' ' 6
A Primitive Spelling Book. Col. Allen T. Davidson
gives this picture of a time earlier than any Col. Ray can

SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES 423
remember: " The first schoolmaster I remember (on Jona
than's creek) was an old. man by the name of Hayes. He
was a good old man, and had a nice family, and had come to
that back-country to 'learn' the young idea how to shoot.
I was about six years old (1825). We could not then get
spelling-books readily. I had none, and was more inclined
to fun than study. The old man or his daughters dressed
a board as broad as a shingle, printed the alphabet on it, bored
a hole through the top, put a string in it, tied it around my
neck and told me to get my lesson. I did not make much
progress; but was greatly indulged by the old man, and 'went
out' without the 'stick,' which was the passport for the
others. The old man wore a pair of black steel-rim specta
cles, with the largest eyes I ever saw, and was a great smoker.
There were no matches in those days, and no way to get fire
except by punk and steel; hence, he had to keep fire covered up
in the ashes in the fire-place to light his pipe. . . . When
I would bring in the sticks with which to replenish the fire,
I would usually bring in two or three buckeyes, which I slipped
into the ashes as I covered the wood. The wood would smolder
to a coal and the buckeyes would get hot, but they would not
explode until the air reached them, when they would explode
like the report of a musket, scattering the hulls, ashes and
embers all over the house, in the old man's face and against
his spectacles. This always happened whenever he uncov
ered the coals to light his pipe. The good old man never
did discover the cause of the explosions. He has long since
gone to his reward, and I remember him with tenderest affec
tion."6 The Blab School. At the earliest period of the most
isolated schools, there were but few books, and spelling
was usually taught and learned by a sort of chant or sing
song, in which all, teacher and scholars, joined. Young and
old joined in this exercise, and children often learned to spell
who did not readily distinguish the letters of the alphabet.
These were often chalked or written with charcoal on boards
against the walls.
Newton Academy. From 1797 to 1814 the Rev. George
Newton taught a classical school at this place [Newton Acad
emy] which was famous throughout several States.7 Mr.
Newton was a Presbyterian minister, reported to the Synod

424 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
at Bethel church, South Carolina, October 18, 1798, as hav
ing been received by ordination by the Presbytery of Con
cord (Foote's Sketches on North Carolina, 297). He lived
on Swannanoa until 1814, when he removed to Bedford county,
Tennessee. There for many years he was principal of Dick
son Academy and pastor of the Presbyterian church in Shel-
byville, and there he died about 1841. 7 "At that time there
was a building which had been used for church and school
purposes, known as Union Hill Academy. The house, which
was a log one, was removed and in 1809 a brick house took
its place. In the same year its name was changed to that of
Newton Academy. " 8 Here for many years the people
resorted to preaching and sent their children to school, and
buried their dead. In 1857 or 1858 the brick building between
the present academy and the grave yard was removed and the
brick academy now there was erected. (See Clayton v. Trus
tees, 95 N. C, 298.)
Dr. Erastus Rowley. "The old Newton Academy was
the only institution in the county which, up to 1840, had
ever been dignified with as big a name as that of Academy.
This was a very old structure when I first entered it in 1844.
Dr. Erastus Rowley taught here that year. The house was
a very long one and rather wide — one story, divided into two
rooms — one very long room and one small one. It was built
of brick and stood on the top of the knoll some distance above
where the present one stands. Many of the older men of
this section received their education at this widely known
institution and its fame has always been almost co-extensive
with that of Asheville. " 9
Dr. Samuel Dickson. "In 1835 Dr. Samuel Dickson,
a Presbyterian minister, established here a seminary for
young ladies, which was most successfully carried on for many
years. It was a school which even in this day of improved
educational methods would stand in the highest rank. Miss
Marguerite Smith of Rhode Island also taught in this building at
the same time. At it were educated all the girls in this sec
tion of the country. Dr. Dickson lived and carried on this
school in the first brick house put up in Asheville. It was a
handsome colonial residence, known afterwards as the 'Pul
liam place,' on South Main street. The first woman who
ever became a regular practitioner of medicine in America
was a member of this school, Dr. Elizabeth Blackwell. " 1 °

SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES 425
Colonel Stephen Lee, Soldier and Schoolmaster.
"Dr. Erastus Rowley also taught the male school at the old
Newton Academy for quite a while. He was a 'Yankee'
but a most excellent teacher, as well as a fine preacher. Col.
Stephen Lee, about this time, established a school for boys
on the Swannanoa four miles from Asheville, which had a
wide reputation and he did good in all this mountain section.
It may be said without intended disparagement to others
that Col. Lee's equal as a teacher has scarcely been found
in this country; his memory lingers with and is blessed by
many of the 'old boys' of today.
" Col. Lee's school for boys was far famed and many of the
best citizens of this country and South Carolina remembered
with gratitude, not only the drilling in Latin and Greek re
ceived from this most successful educator, but also the les
sons in high toned honor and manhood imparted by this
knight 'without fear and without reproach.' Col. Lee came
from South Carolina and opened his school first in a large
brick house built by himself on Swannanoa, known as 'The
Lodge ' — afterwards famous as the hospitable summer resi
dence of Mr. William Patton. Colonel Lee afterwards moved
to Chunn's Cove, where he taught until, at the call of his
country, he and his sons and his pupils enlisted in the cause
which they believed to be right. He was a graduate of West
Point and distantly related to Gen. R. E. Lee. " 1 l
Col. Stephen Lee, son of Judge Thomas Lee of Charleston,
S. C, was born in Charleston, June 7, 1801, was educated at
West Point and for some years after taught in the Charles
ton College. In September, 1825, he was married to his
cousin, Caroline Lee, also of Charleston; they had fifteen chil
dren, nine boys and six girls. Some years after he was married
he moved to Spartanburg, S. C, where he lived only a few
years, moving with his family to Buncombe county, N. C.
In Chunn's Cove he started his school for boys, which he
kept up as long as he lived, except for two or three years in
the sixties, a part of which time he was in command of the
16th N. C. Regiment, serving his country in West Virginia
and the rest of the time drilling new recruits and preparing them
for service. Besides serving himself, he sent eight boys into
the Confederate army, four of whom gave their lives to the
cause. At the close of the war he returned to his school du-

426 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
ties and prepared many young men for their life work. He
died in 1879, and is buried in the Asheville cemetery.
Mrs. Morrison and Miss Cousins' School. Another
school now long passed away, and existing only in the tender
memories of its pupils, was taught for girls by Mrs. Morrison
and Miss Cousins, on Haywood street, the present residence
of Dr. H. H. Briggs.
Sand Hill School. Captain Charles Moore, son of Cap
tain Wm. Moore, was a man of ability and learning, a strict
Presbyterian and a most useful citizen, who early realized the
importance of education to a people so isolated as were the
men of his time. Consequently, early in the nineteenth cen
tury he erected a small frame building on his farm, since
famous as Sand Hill School. It was a school house and
church for ministers sent out by the Mecklenburg Presby
tery, and later became the most useful institution of learn
ing west of the Blue Ridge, to which boys from all the sur
rounding counties came as long as Captain Moore lived.
Among them were the late James L. Henry, Superior court
judge; J. C. L. Gudger, Superior court judge; the late Riley
H. Cannon, Superior court judge, and Judge George A. Jones
of Macon, who held the position of judge by appointment for
nearly two years. Among those living, are Captain James M.
Gudger, Sr., solicitor; J. M. Gudger, Jr., member of Congress;
H. A. Gudger, chief justice of the Panama Canal Zone; Supe
rior Court Judge Geo. A. Shuford, Judge Charles A. Moore,
the late Hirschel S. Harkins, former internal revenue collector
for this district; the late Fred Moore, Superior court judge;
the late James Cooper, a prominent lawyer of Murphy; Hon.
W. G. Candler, member of the legislature; Thomas J. Candler,
Dr. James Candler, and Dr. David M. Gudger. Captain
Charles Moore is said to have been largely instrumental in
erecting the first Presbyterian church in Asheville. He in
sisted on employing only the most competent teachers for
Sand Hill School, among them being Prof. Hood and W. H.
Graves, both highly educated teachers. He died about the
close of the Civil War. Professor S. F. Venable, a graduate
of the University of Virginia, also taught at Sand Hill.
Another Early School. Bishop Asbury records the fact
that in September, 1806, he and Moses Lawrence lost their
way in Buncombe county when within a mile of Killion's

SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES 427
on Beaverdam creek, and spent the night in a school house,
without a fire. The floor of this school room was of dirt, on
which Moses slept, while the Bishop had a "bed wherever I
could find a bench." This was not Newton Academy, for
he had already recorded the fact that he knew the Rev.
George Newton in November, 1800. Besides, Newton Acad
emy was more than three miles from Killion's. Just where
this school house was seems to have escaped the knowledge
of all our local historians.
Silas McDowell. He was born in York District, S. C,
in 1795, and for three sessions was a student at Newton
Academy, near Asheville. He was apprenticed to learn the
tailor's trade at Charleston, S. C, and worked as such at
Morganton and Asheville. He married a niece of Governor
Swain, and moved to Macon county in 1830, where for sixteen
years he was clerk of Superior court. He was a practical
mineralogist and geologist, botanist and a scientist of original
views. His descriptions of mountain peaks attracted much
attention; but his "Theory of the Thermal Zone" gave him
great reputation and was published in the Agricultural Re
ports of the United States. He died in Macon county,
July 14, 1879.
A Benevolent "Squeers. "12 A most unique character
among the teachers of that day was Robert Woods or "Uncle
Baldy," as he was generally called, for his head was bald as a
door knob with the exception of a light fringe at the base of
his cranium. Although a finished classical scholar and per
fect in mathematics as well as all the higher branches taught
in that day, he would not teach in the higher schools, but
preferred to labor in what was then known as the "old field,"
where there was seldom anything taught but the elementary
branches — such as spelling, reading, writing "ciphering."
Occasionally he would have a boy who wanted to take a little
Latin or Greek, or the higher mathematics, which he was
thoroughly competent to teach. He was singular and very
economical in his notions of dress. He made one suit last
him for many years. I can see him now in imagination, with
a long tail blue jeans coat that came down to his knees and
which had seen service so long that the threads of white fill
ing were showing plainly. The collar was large and when
turned up came nearly to the top of his head. His pants

428 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
were of heavy "linsey woolsey" of deep brown color and very
baggy. His vest was of the same material and buttoned up
to his chin, with a good flap at the top, his shirts were of heavy
red or purple flannel, his shoes were of a style of heavy home
made comfortable brogan that were very generally worn in
that day. This was his dress and the only one I ever saw
him wear. When he was not hearing recitations he constantly
walked the floor of the school room from end to end with a
swinging walk with his hands crossed upon his back and in
one of them a six foot birch "tidivator, " and when he would
catch a boy with his eyes wandering or at meanness he would
give him a keen rap across the shoulders and say in a savage
tone, "mind your book." In the summer time when the
flies were bad he would tie a large red bandanna handkerchief
over his head which he could arrange something after the fash
ion of a woman's sunbonnet and thus he could save fighting
the flies, but with all his queer ways and habits he was a most
excellent, useful and successful teacher and a good old gen
tleman. For many years he taught acceptably in various
parts of this county.
First School House in Ashe. The first school house in
Jefferson was of logs and stood on a branch in the eastern end
of Jefferson in a lot owned by Felix Barr, just left of the black
smith shop. He removed it in 1873 or 1874. A fine spring
is near the former site.
Burnsville Academy. In 1851 Rev. Stephen B. Adams,
now deceased, of the Methodist Church, established the Burns
ville Academy and taught there several years. He was .the
father of Judge Joseph S. Adams, also now deceased. Out
of this grew
Mars Hill College, which was established by the most
prominent members of the Baptist denomination in 1857,
after realizing the necessity for such a college. Thomas Ray,
John Radford, E. D. Carter, Daniel Carter, Stephen Ammons,
Shepard Deaver, Rev. J. W. Anderson and Rev. Humphrey
Deweese were prominent in establishing this institution.
During part of the Civil War the buildings were used by the
soldiers, but after the close of that struggle the buildings were
repaired and others added. It has done and still is doing
great good.
Weaverville College was established by the Metho-

SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES 429

dist Church, South, about the year 1856. It is situated on land
where formerly camp meetings were held. It has been greatly
enlarged and improved of late years. It is co-educational.
It has done excellent work in the past and continues to do the
same now.
Asheville Male Academy. In 1847-48 the citizens of
Asheville erected a brick building on the north side of
what is now College street about a hundred yards east
of Oak. It stood till August, 1912, when it was removed.
In it Prof. James H. Norwood taught till about 1850, when
he removed to Waynesville, where he remained till shortly
before the Civil War, when, having been appointed Indian
agent in the Northwest, he removed there and was afterwards
killed by the Indians. During part of the time he taught at
this academy Col. Stephen Lee also taught there, but soon
removed to Chunn's cove.
Asheville Female College. About 1850 or 1851 this
college was established on the land now bounded on the north
by Woodfin, on the east by Locust, on the south by College and
on the west by Oak streets. Part of it is used as a hotel and
the remainder is now the high school's property. At first
it was Holston Conference Female College, but was afterwards
known as the Asheville Female College, and subsequently as
the Asheville College for Women. It prospered and had a
large patronage from the start under the presidency of Dr.
John M. Carlisle, Dr. Anson W. Cummings, Dr. James S.
Kennedy, Dr. R. N. Price, Dr. James Atkins, Mr. Archibald
Jones. Asheville School for Girls. This was begun in 1911,
with Miss Ford as principal, assisted by several competent
teachers. It occupies the handsome and commodious resi
dence built by Col. N. W. Woodfin at the corner of North
Main and Woodfin streets, Asheville, and enlarged by the late
Dr. J. H. Burroughs.
Sulphur Springs School. William Hawkins taught in
the school house on the hill above Sulphur Springs from
1838 till long after 1845. A school had been maintained at
that place by Robert Henry's influence and largely at his ex
pense since 1836. The grave yard still there is just back of
the place where the old school house stood. The late Riley
Cannon, the Jones, Hawkins and Moore children attended
school there in the old days.

430 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Mrs. Hutsell's Girls' School. Mrs. Hutsell, the wife
of the Rev. Mr. Hutsell, a Methodist preacher, taught a school
for girls about four miles west of Sulphur Springs from 1840 to
1853, and took some of the scholars to board at her house.
Her husband and Francis Marion Wells of Grassy Creek,
Madison county, were brothers-in-law.
"Order of the Holy Cross" at Valle Crucis.13 In
1840 a gentleman from New York, in search of rare wild flow
ers, wandered into Valle Crucis. He called this beautiful
vale to the attention of Bishop Levi S. Ives of the Protestant
Episcopal Church, who, on July 20, 1842, held services there
and promised to send a missionary. In December, 1842,
Rev. Henry H. Prout arrived and began work in the Lower
Settlement, near the Tennessee line. In August, 1843, Bishop
Ives returned and purchased 125 acres of land which was
subsequently increased to 2,000 acres. His first intention
was to "make this valley an important center of work for the
entire diocese, to include a missionary station, a training
school for the ministry, and a classical and agricultural school
for boys." The necessary buildings having been constructed
in 1844, school was opened early in 1845, with thirty boys
which number increased to fifty during that summer. Rev.
Mr. Thurston was at the head of the mission and of the school.
There were seven candidates for the ministry, several of whom
were assistant teachers. Upon the death of Mr. Thurston
the Rev. Jarvis Buxton, then a candidate for holy orders,
took charge of the school and Mr. Prout carried on the mis
sionary work. But Dr. Buxton removed to Asheville in 1847,
where he became rector of Trinity church, resigning that posi
tion in March, 1890. This withdrawal from Valle Crucis
was in consequence of the introduction into the mission of
Valle Crucis by Bishop Ives, in June 1847, of the "Order of
the Holy Cross," planned by himself and which he intended,
it was said, to develop into a monastic institution. The
Bishop was the General of the Order, the members of which
were divided into three classes: those in the abbey at Valle
Crucis only taking the mediaeval vows of chastity, poverty
and obedience; others taking lighter vows; and some taking
lighter vows still.
Both the clergy and laity might belong to either class.
The Rev. Mr. French was appointed Superior, Mr. Buxton

SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES 431
having declined the .appointment. Many divinity students
became connected with the order, but none of them aban
doned the church. The chapel having been destroyed by
fire, the little band rebuilt it by themselves, locating it in a
little grove at the foot of a hill. Instead of bells a bugle was
used to summon them to worship, and to work. Rev. Wil
liam West Skyles of Hertford county, had joined the mission in
1844 as a farmer, and was ordained a deacon in August, 1847. He
was now called "Brother William," while the Rev. Mr. French
was addressed as "Father William." All were required to
work the farm two hours every day. But reports of the new
order had spread through the diocese, funds had failed to
arrive, but the committee on the State of the church at the
convention held at Wilmington in 1848, favored the mission,
saying that its importance "is immense as the nursery of a
future ministry because of its retirement, ... its hardy
and useful discipline and great economy. " At the convention
held at Salisbury in May, 1849, Bishop Ives gave assurance
that "at this religious house no doctrine will be taught or
practice allowed" not in accord with the principles and usages
of the church, "the property of the establishment having
been secured to the church for the use of the mission on the
specified conditions." At a later day the Bishop declared
that from the date of the convention at Salisbury the order
had been dissolved. Its regular existence, therefore, scarcely
covered two years. The committee on the state of the church
having reported in 1849 that they had assurances on which
they could rely that "no society whose character, rules and
practices are at variance with the spirit if not with the laws
of this church is at present in existence in this diocese," the
convention ordered 1,000 copies of the report distributed
throughout the diocese. In July, 1849, Bishop Ives visited
Valle Crucis, however, and addressed a pastoral letter to the
diocese which was considered a defiance and a partial retrac
tion of the assurances he had given the convention during
the previous May. Consequently, funds for the mission
almost entirely ceased, and some of the students sought work
elsewhere. Mr. French left the mission in the winter of 1850
and Bishop Ives appointed the Rev. George Wetmore to take
charge of Valle Crucis. At the convention of 1850, held at
Elizabeth City in May, Bishop Ives alluded to his assurances

432 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
of 1849, in which he had denied private confession, absolution
and Christ's real presence in the Eucharist, etc., and still
claimed that there had been no heresy or schism. A committee
in 1851 investigated Valle Crucis and reported that the Bish
op's explanation was satisfactory.
Bishop Ives visited Valle Crucis in the summer of 1852
and consecrated Easter chapel above ShuU's Mills. In Sep
tember, 1852, he asked for $1,000 and six months' leave
of absence. He sailed for Europe and on the 22d of December,
1852, he resigned as bishop and declared his "intention to
make his submission to the church of Rome. " He had been
bishop over twenty years. Dr. Thomas Atkinson, who had
been rector of Grace church, Baltimore, was elected to suc
ceed him May 22, 1853. The title of the Valle Crucis property
was never in the Episcopal church. It was sold by Dr. Ives'
legal representatives to Robert Miller who worked the mis
sion grounds as a farm.
The little chapel which Rev. Mr. Skiles had succeeded in
having built on Lower Watauga at a cost of $700, was
consecrated by Bishop Atkinson August 22, 1862. Mr.
Skiles, who had done many deeds of charity and love, died at the
home of Col. J. B. Palmer near what is now Altamont, in
Avery county, December 8, 1862. His remains were interred
in the churchyard of St. John the Baptist, December 18,
1862. This chapel was removed in 1882 to a spot higher up
the Watauga river, near St. Jude postoffice, and in 1889 Mr.
Skiles' remains were re-interred in the new churchyard under
the direction of Rev. George Bell of Asheville.
The Episcopal church has purchased a large part of the
original mission property and now maintains a flourishing
school for girls there. The buildings are large, handsome
and modern, the orchards and farms are well cultivated and
the work accomplished is uplifting and enduring. The prin
cipal credit for this work is due Right Reverend Junius M.
Horner, Bishop of Asheville, who since his consecration in
1900 has been untiring in building up at this favored spot a
useful and elevating school for girls. An investigation of
this work and the success which is already evident will con
vince the most skeptical of its value and importance.
Valle Crucis School for Girls. " The school property
consists of a farm of 500 acres, woodlands, apple orchards,

SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES 433
dairy farm, vegetable garden and poultry yard. It is in
Watauga county. There are two fine buildings, Auxiliary
Hall and Auchmuty Hall. Auxiliary Hall was built with
that portion of money given the Bishop of Asheville, Rt. Rev.
Junius M. Horner, from the united offerings of 1901, added
to other smaller gifts. It is a frame building of handsome
proportions, and contains the assembly hall for the school
and six class rooms on the first floor; the dining room and
kitchen on the second floor; and a dormitory for two teachers
and twelve girls, on the third floor, with linen closets and bath
rooms adjoining.
"Auchmuty Hall is the regular dormitory building for the
school. It is built of concrete blocks, and has thirty rooms
with capacity for six teachers and sixty girls. The ground
floor has office for the principal, a living room, and a prayer
room, where daily morning and evening prayers are said. This
building was put up at a cost of $15,000, the gift of friends
personally interested in the school and missionary work.
These buildings are well designed for school purposes and those
in authority are diligent in carrying out the deliberately
planned policy of the school, viz. : that of making this a model
school industry, that shall be sufficiently economic to be self-
supporting after the equipment of $50,000 is completed
and an endowment of $50,000 is added to insure the sal
aries of the necessary teachers in the school. It is the policy
of the Bishop of Asheville to have here an industrial school
which will educate women, home makers, so that the growing
generation of men and women from the Appalachian mountains
shall be the type known as 'faithful unto death.'
"Half a century ago a school for boys was opened at Valle
Crucis by Bishop Ives who named the place because of the
natural formation of the valleys, Valle Crucis, or the Vale of
the Cross.
" The property of the school, however, was lost to the church
until a few years ago when sufficient interest in the mountain
region was awakened to enable the church to buy back the
best portions of the old school farm and commence the erec
tion of the present industrial school. "
Skyland Institute at Blowing Rock was established about
twenty-five years ago (1891) by Miss E. C. Prudden, and is
supported by the American Missionary Association. It is a
girls' school with industrial training.
w. n. C— 28

434 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Mast Seminary. This is at Mast postoffice on Cove creek,
Watauga, and is the gift of Mr. N. L. Mast to the Presbyte
rian Church. It is only a little over two years old, but will
flourish. Both sexes taught.
Watauga Academy. This was estabUshed in the summer
of 1899 by Messers D. D. and B. B. Daugherty at Boone,
their childhood home. They are brothers. 1 4 The Dougherty
family, both men and women, not only in Ashe and Watauga,
but in Johnson county, Tenn., also, have for years been zeal
ous in the work of education, religion and the uplift of their
States. This was the beginning of the Appalachian Training
School. Cove Creek Academy. Twenty years ago (1893) this
useful and successful school in the western part of Watauga
county, was presided over by Mr. Julius C. Martin, now a
distinguished lawyer of Asheville. It flourished under his
management as principal, and has continued on the road to
success. Asheville Free Kindergarten. Miss Sara Garrison was
a teacher in 1889 in a kindergarten school in the factory
district. In the same year an association was formed and
two kindergartens established and placed in charge of Miss
Garrison and Miss Slack of Baltimore. They were so suc
cessful that a training school was established for fitting women
to teach such schools, and Mrs. Orpha Quale of Indian
apolis taught a class of eight young ladies. Four kindergar
tens were in operation. Mr. George W. Pack having donated
a school building necessitated the incorporation of the asso
ciation in 1892. He met most of the expenses of one of the
teachers who worked at half rates rather than have the school
suspend. In 1894 only two kindergartens were in operation
and Mr. George W. Vanderbilt opened another for colored
children in the Young Men's Institute at his own expense.
A New England lady secured $200 from friends in Boston
and the Asheville board of aldermen gave $150 for a kinder
garten to be re-established in the factory district. The public
kindergartens were suspended for want of funds in the year
1912, but arrangements have been made to re-open them.
Burnsville Baptist College. About the time the
Presbyterians established their college at Burnsville the Bap
tists erected a large and handsome set of college buildings,
which have done a great work ever since.

SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES 435

Bingham School was founded in 1793, at Mebaneville,
N. C, by Rev. Wm. Bingham, who was succeeded by the late
W. J. Bingham, and he by the late Col. Wm. Bingham. After
the death of the last named, in 1873, Major Robert Bingham
became superintendent. The military feature, introduced
during the Civil War, has been retained. This school was
removed to Asheville under Col. Robert Bingham's super
intendence in the fall of 1891; though the original Bingham
School, as it is claimed, continues to flourish at Mebaneville.
Both schools are doing well.
Rural Libraries. Small but carefully chosen libraries
have been placed in our country schools. This means that
six hundred thousand country children have such opportun
ities of enriching their lives by reading as were never before
offered to the young people of North Carolina.
Alleghany Schools. Sparta has had a high school almost
from the beginning of the town, Prof. Brown having located
there in 1870, and with the exception of short intervals, has
had charge of it ever since. There are also a good many
academy buildings at Whitehead, Laurel Springs, Scott-
ville, Piney Creek, Elk Creek and Turkey Knob. In 1909
the Orange Presbytery established a high school at Glade
Valley, there being four buildings, all steam-heated and mod-
ernly equipped.
Baptist Mountain Missions and Schools. Mr. A. E.
Brown has furnished a list of schools which are maintained
by the Home Mission Board of the Southern Baptist Church.
A tract gives the following information:
" Some Mountain Mission School work in this region is being done by
Northern Methodists, the Congregationalists, the Disciples and the
Southern Presbyterians. Aside from the work done by Southern Bap
tists, however, the Northern Presbyterians are doing the largest Moun
tain Mission School work in the South. Here and there in the moun
tain region Baptists have tried to operate schools all along during the
past, but not until the Home Mission Board put the denomination be
hind the educational efforts in the mountains was there any perma
nency in the work. The people have responded nobly to the leadership
and backing furnished by the Home Board. Southern Baptists are
probably better equipped for this work than any other denomination.
This is ground on which to base a deepened sense of responsibility and
not ground for any unworthy pride.
" To sum up : There are more white people per square mile in the
mountains than in any region of equal size in the South. The isolation

436 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA

of the mountains is for lack of means for inter-communication, and not
for lack of people.
" There are more native born American whites ready to be trained and
to profit by training in this district than in any other."
The schools in the mountains of North CaroUna follow:
" Mars Hill College, Mars Hill. Five buildings, nine teachers, 360 stu
dents; territory, Madison county and part of Buncombe; draws students
from every section of the South.
" Yancey Institute, Burnsville. Four buildings, five teachers, 261 stu
dents; territory, Yancey county.
" Mitchell Institute, Bakersville. Two buildings (with the third to be
erected in the near future), four teachers, 140 students; territory, Mitchell
and Avery counties.
" Fruitland Institute, Hendersonville. Four buildings, seven teachers,
221 students; territory, Hendersonville, Transylvania and Polk counties.
" Round Hill Academy, Union Mills. Three buildings, six teachers,
169 students; territory, Rutherford and McDowell counties.
" Haywood Institute, Clyde, N. C. Two buildings, four teachers, 80
students; territory, Haywood county.
" Sylva Institute, Sylva. Four buildings, three teachers, 87 students;
territory, Jackson and Macon counties.
" Murphy Institute, Murphy. Three buildings, three teachers, 96 stu
dents; territory, Cherokee and Clay counties, N. C, and Polk county,
Tennessee."
John 0. Hicks, Pedagogue. 1 5 John 0. Hicks, originally
from Tennessee, built a school at Hayesville just at the close
of the Civil War that has been a noted high-school ever since.
Hicks, after some thirty years of successful teaching, turned
the school over to N. A. Fessenden of Boston, Mass., and
went to Walhalla, South Carolina, and after a few years
teaching at that place moved to Texas, where he died in 1910.
The same school that John O. Hicks organized and built
up at Hayesville is still in operation with an enrollment of
over two hundred. The influence that has gone out from this
school has permeated the whole county until the public schools
of the county are unsurpassed. From this school have gone
out hundreds of men and women who are prominent over the
United States. Among them are the Revs. Ferd. McConnell,
Geo. W. Truett and T. F. Marr; the Doctors W. S., M. H.,
and W. E. Sanderson of Texas and Oklahoma ; lawyers,
0. L. Anderson, J. H. and Luther Truett and the lamented
Judge Fred Moore.
Appalachian Training School was incorporated in
1903, succeeding the private school of Professors B. B. and

SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES 437
D. D. Dougherty, at Boone. It began in 1899 when $1,500
was appropriated on condition that an equal sum should
be provided from private sources. In addition, $2,000 per
annum was appropriated for maintenance. With the first
$3,000 appropriated the present brick administration build
ing was started. Other appropriations followed and other
buildings were erected until in 1911 the maintenance fund was
increased to $10,000 per annum for all succeeding years.
There have been contributions from people in every State
east of the Mississippi river except from New England. There
are now 500 acres of valuable land, six large buildings, farm
houses and barns, two dormitories and a mess hall. There
are three sessions annually of four and a half months in the
fall and spring, and two and a half months in summer. Aver
age attendance is 200, while over 400 were taught in 1911.
There is a full faculty. Board for women is $6.50 and for boys
$7.50 per month. In 1913 the legislature appropriated
$15,000 to erect a brick dormitory for girls capable of holding
200 students. It is in course of erection.
A Camp School. There is a summer camp which comes
to Bryson City every summer, and is situated on the left
bank of the Tuckaseegee river about half a mile below the
town. It is composed of boys from various colleges who thus
pursue their studies through the summer. They live in tents,
but the kitchen and mess hall are of wood. The professors
have their families with them and live in the same camps.
Solitude, or Ashland. Toward the close of the nine
teenth century Professor F. M. Wautenpaugh of Omaha,
Neb., succeeded in having a large and convenient building
erected on a high hill overlooking Solitude, and for four or
five years conducted a business college and high school most
satisfactorily. But the stockholders grew impatient for a
dividend on the money they had invested in the enterprise
and the school closed. It is now owned by a religious society
popularly known as the Holiness People. A religious paper,
called The Sword of the Lord, is published monthly at Solitude
by Rev. E. L. Stewart. There is also a public school house,
neat and attractive, which is attended by about 140 children.
Baptist High School, Murphy. The Baptist high school
occupying the site of the former residence of the late Ben
Posey, Esq., a distinguished lawyer, was built in 1906-7, and

438 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
afterwards enlarged. There are dormitories and other build
ings. It is in the southern part of town, about half a mile
from the court house.
The Murphy Graded School. The Murphy graded
school cost $30,000 and stands on Valley River avenue
in the eastern part of the town, midway between Murphy and
East Murphy. It is built after the colonial style and overlooks
Valley river from its site on a splendid elevation. It has
twelve class rooms, a library, an auditorium, a principal's
office, closets, electric lights and water. It was built in 1909
and is a credit to the community.
Cullowhee Normal and Industrial School. " In
1888, a number of the leading citizens of Cullowhee, desirous
of a better school than the ordinary public school of that day,
organized themselves into a board of trustees for the estab
lishment of what was to be known as the Cullowhee High
School. They procured the services of Prof. Robert L. Mad
ison as principal, and under his leadership and supervision
the school began to flourish and make rapid progress. In 1893,
the institution was recognized by the State, and through the
efforts of Hon. Walter E. Moore, representative from Jack
son, an appropriation was secured for the purpose of establish
ing a Normal department of the school for the training of
teachers. At the session of the General Assembly, in 1905,
through the efforts of Hon. Felix E. Alley, representative
from Jackson, the appropriations were still further increased
and the name of the school was changed to Cullowhee Normal
and Industrial School, the institution then becoming a State
school for the training of teachers.
"The State has recently erected a large and commodious
home for young ladies. The building was designed by a com
petent architect, is well furnished, and is equipped with water
works, steam heat and electric lights. The administration
building is furnished with patent desks and chairs, is lighted
by electricity and heated by steam. The handsome audi
torium is seated with opera chairs and will accommodate six
hundred persons. The institution has a newly installed
sewerage system and is supplied with an abundance of pure
water from distant mountain springs. The electric light and
steam heating plants are both located on the school grounds
and owned and operated by the institution.

SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES 439
" The supreme purpose of the school is the development and
training of teachers. It proposes not only to give the student
training in the fundamental and cultural branches of study,
but so to train him or her as to prepare them to teach. "
Mission Work of Northern Presbyterians. In the
summer of 1884 Dr. Thomas Lawrence was a guest of Rev.
L. M. Pease, originally of New York city, who, with his wife, had
founded the famous Five Points mission in New York city, but
who had removed to Asheville in the seventies, and had started
and was then conducting a school for girls. On a drive into the
country Dr. Lawrence was impressed with the fine looks and intel
ligence of some boys he saw at a school, and Mr. Pease offered
to devote all his landed property near Asheville for a training
school for girls of the vicinage. At that time the Home
Mission Board was seeking a location for some such training
school. The result of this conversation was the transfer of this
property to the Home Mission Board. The late Mrs. D. Stuart
Dodge was active and influential in effecting this. The terms
were satisfactory to all concerned, and a life annuity from the pri
vate purse of the Rev. D. Stuart Dodge, D. D., of New York,
having been secured to Mr. and Mrs. Pease, the Home Industrial
school was soon thereafter organized, in 1887, with Mr. Pease
as superintendent and Miss Florence Stephenson as principal,
a position she still holds. The success of this school encour
aged the evangelization of the mountain region and the Nor
mal and Collegiate Institute was opened in September, 1892,
with Dr. Lawrence as president and Mrs. Lawrence as prin
cipal, with a faculty of fourteen expert teachers and officers,
on part of the Pease property. Dr. Lawrence retired when
he reached seventy-five years of age in 1907, and Prof. E. P.
Childs succeeded him. Thereafter five other boarding schools
have been established in this section, it being the policy of the
Presbyterian Church to hand these flourishing schools to their
respective communities just as soon as they are able to assume
the expense and responsibility of their support and manage
ment. Of the twenty-two elementary day schools planted
during the last quarter of a century in the more sequestered
and needy communities seven have been successfully trans
ferred to local public school authorities. The remaining
fifteen are still doing good work; while in four other centers
additional social, kindergarten and Sabbath school work is

440 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
being done under the management of the board. Miss Flor
ence Stephenson, Miss Mary Johns, Miss Julia Phillips, Miss
Frances Goodrich, Dr. J. P. Roger, a Christian physician, have
done a great work for our people and their names are house
hold words in many a mountain cabin. Dr. G. S. Basker-
ville made a success of the farm school on the Swannanoa
river, after the school had been organized by Prof. Samuel
Jeffries, a graduate of the agricultural department of Cornell
University, in 1893. Dr. J. P. Roger is in charge of the farm
school now.
The following is a list of the schools and churches estab
lished in Western North Carolina, exclusive of those established
elsewhere in the South:
Normal and Collegiate Institute, 1902. Prof. E. P. Childs,
president. Miss Mary F. Hickok, principal. Fifteen teach
ers and officers. Average enrollment, 304.
Home Industrial School (preparatory to the Normal and
Collegiate Institue), 1887. Miss Florence Stephenson,
principal. Teachers and officers, ten. Average enrollment,
140. Pease Home (for little girls), 1908. Miss Edith P. Thorpe,
matron. Adjunct to Home Industrial School, and furnishing
school of practice for Normal and Collegiate Institute.
These three boarding schools for girls occupy, with the
chapel, manse, and superintendent's home, the beautiful
suburb of Asheville, ceded by Mr. Pease. The whole plant
is valued at $200,000.
Farm School, nine miles from Asheville, on the Swannanoa
river, 1895, J. P. Rogers, superintendent. Sixteen teachers
and officers. Spacious school and farm buildings and 650
acres of fertile land.
These four flourishing boarding schools form the Asheville
group. Their success has been largely possible through the
wise counsel and constant beneficence of Dr. D. Stuart Dodge,
New York City, who inherits a name which has, for three
generations, been synonymous with philanthropy.
Bell Institute, Walnut, Madison county, 1908. Miss Mar
garet E. Griffith, principal. Five teachers and officers.
Average attendance, 284; 65 boarders. Value of school prop
erty, $12,000.
Dorland Institute, Hot Springs, Madison county, 1887.

SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES 441

Established by the late Dr. Luke Dorland, in his old age,
after a long life of eminent usefulness in other fields. Miss
Julia E. Phillips, principal. Eleven teachers and officers.
The plant is valued at $40,000, and provides school room and
dormitory accommodations for 70 girls, farm and home for
30 boys, having, in addition, an attendance of 60 day pupils.
Stanly McCormick Academy, Burnsville, Yancey county.
Prof. Lowrie Corry, principal. Seven teachers and officers.
Six buildings, including school building, principal's home,
separate dormitories for boys and girls. Average attendance,
206; 50 boarders. Building and grounds valued at $46,000.
This prosperous academy has a magnificent patron in Miss
Nettie McCormick, Chicago, 111.
Besides the schools of higher grade, above mentioned, a
successful academy was maintained more than ten years at
Marshall, which prepared for and subsequently gave place
to the excellent graded school now being maintained by the
public authorities.
In addition to these boarding schools, 21 elementary day
schools were meanwhile being planted in the remotest and most
inaccessible regions, under carefully trained Christian teachers —
fourteen in Madison, four in Buncombe, and three in Yan
cey county, with an average attendance of 1,200 pupils, under
41 teachers. The moneys invested in school buildings and
teachers' homes, the people contributing as they were able,
would aggregate $30,000.
In accordance with their policy, as already remarked, the
board, in the more recent years, has been gradually retiring
from these fields as the local authorities became able and
willing to take over the work. The value of properties
in buildings and lands, held for educational purposes, including
the seven boarding and 21 day schools, aggregates $400,000,
not to make mention of the salaries of, on an average, more
than 100 efficiently trained teachers necessarily employed.
Col. Robert Bingham, one of the most experienced and
eminent educators of the commonwealth, in an article pub
lished in the North American Review, refers to the prudence
and wisdom which has characterized the administration of.
this mission school work, and says, in substance : "Of all the
moneys donated by northern philanthropists for the better
ment of education in the South, those contributed by the

442 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Northern Presbyterian Church has been most judiciously
and wisely expended."
The list of the organized churches is as follows: Oakland
Heights, Asheville, Buncombe county; College Hill, Riceville,
Buncombe county; Reems Creek, Reems Creek, Buncombe
county; Brittain's Cove, Brittain's Cove, Buncombe county;
Jupiter, Jupiter, Buncombe county; Cooper's Memorial,
Marshall, Madison county; Barnard, Barnard, Madison
county; AUanstand, Allanstand, Madison county; Big Laurel,
Big Laurel, Madison county; Dorland Memorial, Hot Springs,
Madison county; Burnsville, Burnsville, Yancey county.
Southern Presbyterian Church Schools. 1 6 Glade
Valley School, near Sparta; organized 1910; boarding and
day school for boys and girls; buildings and furnishings worth
$20,000. Five teachers in regular service; 130 students;
full academic course; board and tuition per month, $10.
Lees-McRae Institute, at Banner Elk; established 1901;
boarding and day school for girls; industrial, there being no
servants. Buildings, furnishings and farm worth $25,000.
Eight teachers; 165 students; usual academic course with
manual training. Tuition and board per month, $8.
Lees-McRae Institute at Plumtree; organized 1902; board
ing and day school for boys; industrial, large farm connected
with school; buildings, farm, furnishings, stock, etc., worth
$22,000. Five teachers and about 110 students. Course
prepares for freshman class in good college. Board and tui
tion, $8, many of the students making as much by their own
labor. Mission Industrial School, near Franklin; organized 1911;
boarding and day school for girls; industrial, no servants.
Buildings and furnishings worth $10,000. Five teachers
and 75 students. Course same as that of best high schools.
Board and tuition, $8 per month.
The Maxwell Home and School, near Franklin; organized
1911, for homeless boys who are destitute. Manual train
ing, chiefly, the farm containing 500 acres. Buildings, fur
nishings and farm, worth $15,000. Three teachers, capacity
for 30 boys at present. With $50 to get a start, a boy can
make his own way here.
Mountain Orphanage. At Balfour, established in 1905
by Home Mission Committee of Asheville Presbytery. Mr.

SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES 443
and Mrs. A. H. Temple have charge of 40 children. Property
worth $5,000.
Colored People's Schools.17 "Very soon after the war
the importance of the education of the colored people, now
citizens and voters, was impressed upon the minds of the
thinking people of this section. The first effort in this direc
tion was the parochial school of the Protestant Episcopal
Church, which was opened in 1870, and was taught by Miss
A. L. Chapman of Rochester, N. Y. After two years she
was succeeded by Rev. Mr. Berry, who was both pastor and
teacher. This double office has been filled without inter
ruption by educated and influential colored men up to the
present time, and many heads of families look back with
gratitude to the little room on South Main street, and the
parochial school building on Valley street, where the rudi
ments of an education were obtained, and foundations of
character laid, which have been a blessing to them and their
households. "In 1885 Rev. L. M. Pease, recognizing the importance
of hand, as well as head and heart training, erected a building
for an Industrial school on College street, and opened it the
same autumn with three thoroughly educated colored teachers.
At the close of the school year, being financially unable to
continue it, he deeded the property to the Woman's Board of
Home Missions of the Methodist Episcopal Church, which
continued the work under the superintendence of Rev. Newell
Albright, whose health was such as to require a residence in
this climate. When Mr. Albright resigned after one year,
the school was thoroughly organized and established and has
continued to do excellent work under the superintendence
of Miss A. B. Dole, who, by her judicious management of the
race question, and devotion to the interests of the colored
people, has made many friends among both races.
"Rev. C. E. Dusenberry of the Presbyterian Church has a
parochial school on Eagle street, under the auspices of the
Holston Presbytery, where industrial work is taught to some
extent, and a kitchen garden conducted. The purpose of
this is to teach correct methods of housekeeping, such as mak
ing fires, washing dishes, setting and waiting on tables, laun
dry and chamber work.
"In the Victoria suburb a combined chapel and school house

444 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
was erected five years ago by a donation from Mr. Taylor
of Cleveland, 0., where a flourishing day school has greatly
benefited the population. Mrs. W. J. Erdman was the pro
jector and manager of this school till her removal to Phila
delphia one year ago. The teacher's salary is paid by the
Freedman's Board of the Presbyterian Church, by which they
are also appointed.
"In 1892, Mr. Stevens, the principal of the public school
for colored pupils, was greatly impressed with the necessity
of an institution for colored young men on the plan of the
Y. M. C. A. He set about devising plans for the erection
of a building for this purpose, and made a journey during
vacation to Bar Harbor, Me., for the purpose of soliciting
aid from Mr. George Vanderbilt. In this he was successful,
and Mr. Charles McNamee was commissioned to erect a struc
ture, suitable for the purpose contemplated, on the corner of
Eagle and Market streets. It is a fine, substantial building
with a tiled roof. There are stores and offices on the first
floor and a large lecture hall. On the second floor is a library
and reading room, a parlor and school room and the office
of the superintendent. This was occupied by Mr. Stevens
for one year, and the following one by Mr. John Love, an
Asheville boy, who was graduated at Oberlin, 0., and resigned
one year ago to take work in Washington, D. C. The present
incumbent is B. H. Baker, a graduate of Howard University.
"The lecture hall has been in demand for lectures, con
certs, exhibitions and entertainments, and on Sunday after
noons for a song service with a large attendance. There
is a religious service one night in the week, a night school for
boys and a kindergarten eight months in the year. "
Charles McNamee, Esq., for many years the attorney and
adviser of Mr. George W. Vanderbilt, who erected the Young
Men's Institute at the corner of Eagle and Spruce streets,
Asheville, for the use of colored people, about the year 1893,
in a letter dated October 24, 1895, says that he is the trustee
of the property and that "It was the original intention that
the income of the building over and above the running expenses
should be devoted to paying Mr. Vanderbilt back the prin
cipal and interest of the cost of the building and ground."
The foregoing references are to times prior to November, 1895.
Mrs. Hetty Martin. This good lady was the wife of the

SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES 445
late General James Green Martin. They came to Asheville
during the Civil War, after which they faced poverty with
brave hearts. Mrs. Martin was the daughter of the ate
Charles King, president of Columbia College, New York,
granddaughter of Rufus King, first American minister to
the Court of St. James, and a sister of General Rufus
King of the United States army. Notwithstanding her
northern birth and ancestry, Mrs. Martin's fidelity to
the South was unquestioned. Recognizing the fact that
if left to their own resources the newly enfranchised
negro race of the South must necessarily retrograde, Mrs.
Martin soon after the Civil War exerted herself to advance
their educational and religious training. It was through her in
fluence that St. Mathias Episcopal church was organized
and for years supported by the aid of white people. She
also assisted in the erection and furnishing of the fine new
church that crowns one of the hill-tops in the eastern part of
Asheville, and in which so many reputable and self-respecting
colored men, women and children have received spiritual
guidance. Her influence for good in this community is
incalculable. Miss Anna Woodfin. This good woman is a daughter
of Col. N. W. Woodfin, and although a confirmed invalid for
many years, she has, nevertheless, exerted a wonderful in
fluence for good in this community. In 1884 she was largely
instrumental in organizing the Flower Mission, of which she
is still an honored member. This was intended to be "an
auxiliary to the State branch of that department of the Na
tional Woman's Christian Temperance Union, with the object
of carrying flowers to the homes of the sick and destitute,
to prison cells, to hospitals and almshouses." Bible texts
and songs and readings often went with the flowers. Its work
revealed the need of a hospital and, as the society was inter
denominational, the cooperation of all the churches was
secured, and soon the Mission Hospital was opened in 1885.
The Associated Charities is also an outgrowth of this grand
scheme. Donation of a Library. About 1905 Professor Charles
Hallet Wing, of Brighton, Mass., donated to the county of
Mitchell on certain conditions a large and well-arranged
library building and 15,000 selected and valuable books, a
book-bindery, etc., all situated at Ledger, on the road from

446 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Marion to Bakersville, where Professor Wing lived several
years and gave the people in the neighborhood the free use
of his Ubrary, besides binding without charge any pamphlets
or books in need of such treatment.
Professor Charles Hallet Wing. Of this public-spir
ited gentleman we read (Carolina Mountains, p. 326) that
"after many years of notable service as professor of chem
istry in the Boston Institute of Technology" he came to.
Ledger, Mitchell county, N. C, "before there had been any
change in the customs of the country, to escape the turmoil
of the outer world. Professor Wing vehemently disclaimed
any share in changing — he would not call it 'improving' —
the life of the people, but he made his charming log house,
his barn and outbuildings, also his fences with their help."
He also built a school house and library building, provided
two teachers, and himself "conducted a manual training
department." There were 250 applicants for admission to
his school the first year it was opened, ranging from six to
forty years in age. This school was successfully conducted
"without the infliction of any sort of punishment." Fifteen
thousand books were sent there by friends of Prof. Wing,
and the library was kept by a native youth who was taught
to rebind books, "as some of the most used books were those
that had been discarded by the Boston Public Library." Small
traveling libraries of seventy-five volumes each were sent
around the country and loaned. "The library was free,
with rules, but no fines, and it is illustrative of the quality of
the people that the rules were not broken and that at the end
of the first year not a book was missing, none had been kept
out overtime, while less than six per cent of those taken out
had been fiction" (p. 327).
George W. Pack. Elsewhere has been mentioned the
donation by this gentleman of a valuable library building
to the city of Asheville, and his aid to the free kindergartens
of that city.
Brevard Institute. This school for training girls and
boys in the practical things of life is situated near Brevard,
and was started in 1895. "Besides the ordinary academic
subjects and special religious training the pupils are taught
'a dread of debt, promptness in attending to business obli
gations of every sort, a love for thoroughness and accuracy

SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES 447
in doing work of every sort, self-control in the expenditure
of money, and a knowledge of simple business transactions.'"
There is also a business course, a department of music and one
of domestic art. (Carolina Mountains, pp. 225-226.)
Allenstand Cottage Industries. This is a form of
settlement work which began, "long before the present wave
of prosperity had drawn near the mountains," in the north
western portion of Buncombe county "away up on Little
Laurel, near the Tennessee line . . . and close under
the wild Bald mountains." It was "formerly a stopping
place or 'stand' for drovers who stopped over night with
their cattle, sheep, horses and swine" on their way from
Tennessee to South Carolina. Here old-fashioned spinning,
weaving and dyeing were revived and are being taught.
(Carolina Mountains, pp. 226-228.)
Biltmore Industries. From the same work (p. 231)
we read that wood-carving is taught and practiced at Biltmore,
as well as old-fashioned spinning, weaving and dyeing, and
also embroidery, some of the graduates in wood-carving
carving chairs for the great establishment of Tiffany of
New York, and more than one hundred of the pupils are
earning a livelihood by the wood-carving craft.
Scotch Blood Answers First Cry to Battle. From
the Carolina Mountains (p. 149) we learn that although the
men of these mountains had remained for years without an
ideal and were without opportunity to display their natural
ability and trustworthiness of character, nevertheless, when
George W. Vanderbilt began his operations at Biltmore he
employed these very men and kept them under an almost
iron discipline. He found "the Scotch blood at the first
call to battle ready," and now "all the directors of the great
estate, excepting a few of the highest officials, are drawn
from the ranks of the people, who proved themselves so trust
worthy and capable that in all these years only three or four
of Biltmore's mountaineer employees have had to be dis
charged for inefficiency or bad conduct."
NOTES.
¦Hill, p. 375.
*lbid., 376.
°G. R. McGee's, p. 110.
'From "Alexander-Davidson Reunion," 1911, by F. A. Sondley, Esq., p. 24.
5Col. J. M. Ray in Lyceum, p. 19, December, 1890.
flCol. Allen T. Davidson in Lyceum, p. 6, January, 1891
^Asheville Centenary.
Note: Newton Academy is on the east side of South Main Street, Asheville, and
nearly opposite the Normal and Collegiate Institute.

448 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA

8From Judge J. C. Pritchard's address before Normal and Collegiate Institute, 1907.
'"Reminiscences" of Dr. J. S. T. Baird, 1905.
"Ibid."Ibid."Ibid."Condensed from WiUiam West Skiles' "A Sketch of Missionary Life," 1842-1862.
Edited by Susan Fenimore Cooper, N. Y., J. P. Pott & Co., Publishers.
14From facts furnished by Prof. D. D. Dougherty.
"By G. H. Haigler, Hayesville, N. C.
"Information furnished by Rev. R. P. Smith, superintendent and treasurer.
"Woman's Edition, Asheville Citizen. The references are prior to November, 1895.

CHAPTER XVIII
NEWSPAPERS
Highland Messenger. At some time prior to 1842 the
late Joshua Roberts and Rev. David R. Mc Anally founded
the first newspaper ever printed in Asheville, the Highland
Messenger. John H. Christy, a practical printer, was asso
ciated with them in its publication. He married Miss Ann
Aurelia Roberts August 23, 1842, which must have been after
the paper had been started, she having been a daughter of
Joshua Roberts. J. H. Christy subsequently moved to Athens,
Ga., where he published for many years the weekly Southern
Watchman, and during Reconstruction was elected member
of Congress from the Athens district, but was not allowed to
take his seat on account of political disabilities. His son
is now one of the publishers of the Andrews Sun. Dr. David
R. McAnally was a Methodist preacher and moved to St.
Louis, Mo., where he edited the Christian Advocate. He
was sometimes mentioned in connection with the bishopric
in the Southern Methodist Church.
James M. Edney obtained control of the Highland Mes
senger and it afterwards became the Spectator. It was edited
by John D. Hyman, who moved to Asheville about 1853,
and Z. B. Vance. In it, in 1857, Gov. Vance published an
account of the finding of Prof. Elisha Mitchell's body. 1 Thomas
Atkin, of Knoxville, established the Asheville News about
1848 or 1850 and it ran a long time under that name. The
late Major Marcus Erwin as editor wrote brilliantly for it.
This paper, although nominally independent, supported
Major W. W. Rollins for the State senate in 1866. On the
day the election returns had to be made, Lee Gash, of Hen
derson county, was 27 votes ahead of Major Rollins, at sun
down, with the votes of Mitchell county still not in. At
ten o'clock that night the Rev. Stephen Collis arrived with
them, having been delayed by high water. There were 770
votes for W. W. Rollins and only one vote for Mr. Gash; but
they had arrived a few hours too late. 2
The Asheville Citizen. This paper, at first a weekly,
was established by Randolph Shotwell, who came to Ashe-
(449)— W. N. C— 29

450 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
viUe from Rutherford in 1869. About 1870 Col. V. S. Lusk
sent a bill to the grand jury, while he was solicitor, against
certain men for Ku-Kluxing some negroes, and the grand jury
threw it out. There then ensued some newspaper controversy,
and the next Col. Lusk knew of it was a blow, dealt by Shot-
well, knocking him to his knees. While in this position Lusk
fired upward and wounded Shotwell in both legs. Shotwell
gave Lusk a Masonic sign and Lusk fired no more. This
happened on the public square about 1870 or 1871. Shot-
well sold the Citizen to Natt Atkinson and went to Ruther
ford, after having been convicted of assault upon Lusk,
sentence having been suspended at Lusk's request. Shotwell
was soon afterwards convicted of Ku-Kluxing and sent to the
Albany penitentiary, but was pardoned by Gen. Grant upon
application of Col. Lusk, who had then been appointed United
States district attorney.
John P. Kerr's Recollections. In a letter dated June
11, 1912, Col. John P. Kerr, a veteran newspaperman, and
now private secretary to Gov. Craig, wrote as follows:
"The first newspaper published in Asheville within my recollection
was the News and Farmer. I am sure that this was the successor of the
News, which had been printed by Rev. Thomas (?) Atkins, a Methodist
preacher, subsequent to and perhaps during the war. R. M. Stokes was
the editor of the News and Farmer, as I recollect, in 1868-1869. The
printing office was in the building now known as the 'Hub,' N. W.
Pack Square and N. Main street. It was up stairs. Stokes subse
quently moved his paper to Union, S. C. The Pioneer, a weekly Repub
lican paper, was also being published in Asheville in 1868-1869. I began
my apprenticeship as a printer on this paper. It was at this time edited
by A. H. Dowell, with C. W. Eve as local editor. This paper was founded,
I think, by A. H. Jones who represented this district in Congress at this
time. The office was on the third story of the Patton Building, corner
S. Main and S. E. Pack Square. Capt. Atkinson printed a paper in the
rear room on the second story of the same building that the News and
Farmer occupied, and I set type for him as a printer. About 1869 or
1870 the News and Farmer was purchased by Randolph Shotwell, who
changed its name to the Asheville Citizen. Between 1870 and 1874 R.
M. Furman took hold of the Citizen. His office was in the basement
of the same building, the 'Hub.'3 Randolph A. Shotwell was either
associated with Furman or else he ran another paper for a short time in
Asheville during the period above mentioned. Thomas D. Carter
started during this same period the Expositor; which also had its office
in this same building when it began, but it was subsequently moved to
the Legal Building, which covered the site now occupied by the big Oates
building, and I think became the property of Gen. R. B. Vance, then a

NEWSPAPERS 451

member of Congress, and was edited by his brother-in-law, Maj. W. H.
Malone. During this period Jordan Stone became associated with Furman
in the Citizen, as did also Col. J. D. Cameron. I feel sure that the Citizen
was a daily when I returned to Asheville in 1887. After an absence of
several years Jordan Stone sold his interest in the paper about 1888,
and went to California. Subsequently, perhaps about a year later, R.
M. Furman sold his interest, and Col. J. D. Cameron ran the Citizen
for a few weeks or months alone. The paper was then sold to Capt.
T. W. Patton and J. G. Martin. Mr. Martin soon sold his interest and
in either 1889 or 1890 a company was formed composed of T. W. Patton,
W. F. Randolph, A. E. Robinson and John P. Kerr, who took charge of
the paper. This was continued for only one year, after which Randolph
Robinson and Kerr ran the paper until 1889, with F. E. Robinson as
editor. In 1889 J. P. Kerr sold his interest to Dr. W. G. Eggleston, who
became the editor. Dr. Eggleston remained with the paper for less than
a year. After this there were a number of changes in the ownership of
the paper which can be more accurately ascertained by the files of the
paper itself. In 1887 Theodore Hobgood was running a daily paper in
Asheville called the Advance. Its offices were in the basement of the old
Legal Building. The present Gazette-News was the outgrowth of the
Advance. " I have no definite recollection as to the various steps in the life of
the Gazette-News. After the sale or discontinuance of the Advance, Theo
dore Hobgood and  Fitzgerald began the publication of a morn
ing newspaper in the Barnard Building, or the building which preceded
it. This ran only a short time when they sold it to W. F. Randolph and
John P. Kerr, who ran it only a few weeks. This was about 1888. The
Asheville Register was the name of a Republican weekly paper published
for a number of years, and founded, I believe, by R. M. Deaver. R. B.
Roberts was its editor for some years. "
The Asheville Citizen Publishing Company was incor
porated April 1, 1890, A. H. Fuller, T. W. Patton, J. G. Martin
and T. A. Jones being named as incorporators. It was the influ
ence of this paper largely which secured the election of the late
Capt. T. W. Patton as mayor on an independent ticket, in
May, 1893.
The Asheville Daily Gazette was established in March,
1896. It was incorporated as the Gazette Publishing Company
April 2, 1897, Fred A. Johnson, J. M. Johnson and James E.
Norton being named as incorporators. Mr. Norton, who had
had fifteen years experience in reportorial and editorial posi
tions on the New York Tribune, Times, Commercial Adver
tiser and Brooklyn Eagle, continued in active management of
the editorial and business affairs of the paper, except for a short

452 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
interval in the fall of 1898 (?) when the late Robert M. Fur
man had control of the editorials, till 1903-04, when the paper
was sold to the Evening News Publishing Company. It was then
converted into an afternoon paper, the Citizen, which before that
had been an evening paper, having taken the field as a morn
ing journal. The Gazette was a Republican paper during
the last three years of its existence. Geo. L. Hackney had
the two papers combined as the Gazette-News, under which
name it has continued to flourish.
Watauga Democrat. It was started by Joseph Spainhour
and the Democratic party prior to June 13, 1888. R. C. Riv
ers, its present owner, and D. D. Dougherty took charge
July 4, 1889. Mr. Rivers has been with it since.
Watauga Enterprise . and News. The former ran in
Boone in 1888, L. L. Green and Thomas Bingham conducting
it. The News was begun in January, 1913, 4 by Don. H. Phillips.
Jefferson Observer. This paper is a weekly Democratic
paper, published at Jefferson, Ashe county, and was established
about 1901 by Talbott W. Adams, formerly of Edgefield county,
S. C. He is still in control of it. A Republican paper was
started in 1909 but failed. It was called the Jefferson Watch
man, and ran only three or four months. In 1910 an effort
was made to revive it under the name of the Industrial-Repub
lican Publishing Company of Jefferson, N. C, but it failed.
General Erastus Rowley Hampton. For several years,
during 1890 and thereafter, Gen. Hampton published a weekly
paper in Jackson county.
Franklin Press. This Democratic weekly was con
ducted by the late W. A. Curtis at Franklin, Macon county,
for a number of years prior to his death in 1900. It is still
flourishing. The Carolina Baptist was the first newspaper printed
in Hendersonville. In 1855 Rev. James Blythe, W. C. Berin
and J. M. Bryan, as editors, started this paper, but later Prof.
W. A. G. Brown became its editor. A copy was recently
shown dated June 22, 1859.
Hendersonville Hustler. This newspaper was started
in HendersonviUe ten or a dozen years ago and is still flour
ishing. Now M. L. Shipman, Commissioner of Labor and
Printing, is its editor and proprietor. '

NEWSPAPERS

453

From the Report of the Commissioner of Labor and
Printing.
weekly newspapers.

County

Town

Name of Paper

Editor

Proprietor

Mitchell 

B akersville
Bryson City
Brevard Boone BurnsvilleJefferson

Mitchell County
Kronicle.
Bryson City Times
Sylvan Valley News
Watauga Democrat
Eagle Recorder

T. M. Gosorn
H. W. Carter
0. L. Jones
R.B.Wilson R. C. Rivers
J. M. Lyon
W. T. Adams

T. H. Gosorn

H. W. Carter

Transylvania 

Jones & Wilson

Eagle Pub. Co.

W. T. Adams

Captain Natt Atkinson was born November 15, 1832, in
McMinn county, Tenn., near Charleston. He was a graduate
of Hiwassee College and of Col. Wilson's private school in
Alamance county, N. C. He married Harriet Newell Baird,
daughter of Mary and Israel Baird, of Buncombe county, N. C,
February 2, 1858. There were twelve children. He was
admitted to the Asheville bar in 1868, and practiced law till
1873. He purchased the Asheville Citizen in 1870, and edited
the same for three years following, when he sold that paper
and moved to a farm on Swannanoa river, where he remained
till 1882, when he returned to Asheville and entered the real
estate business, which he continued till his death, August 25,
1894, at Salisbury, N. C. He was one of the most useful and
enterprising of Asheville's citizens, encouraging every enter
prise of merit, and forgetting his own interest in that of the
community. He was the president of the Atlanta, Ashe
ville and Baltimore Railroad Company, and began the actual
construction of the first street railway in Asheville under
what is known as the Farinholt charter, which he sold to E.
D. Davidson and associates, thus defeating an attempt that
was making to build and operate a steam railway through
the streets of Asheville and insuring the present electric
system. He was also interested in the construction of other
railways, and was really the father of the graded schools of
Asheville. He was elected to the legislature of 1879 and by
legislation secured largely through his efforts saved the State
what he estimated to be $175,000. He was a captain in Gen.
M. Vaughan's brigade of the Confederate Army, and was
one of the personal escort of Hon. Jefferson Davis on his flight
southward from Richmond via Charlotte in April, 1865.
454 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
The Lyceum. This monthly was published in Asheville
from May, 1890, until some time in 1892. Tilman R. Gaines
of South Carolina was its editor and proprietor. In it were
published many papers of value, among which should be
mentioned " Reminiscenses of Western North Carolina," by
Col. Allen T. Davidson; "Poets of the South," by L. M.
Hatch; "Persecution of the Jews," by W. H. Malone; "Pro
tection of Birds," by J. D. Cameron; "State Landlordism
and Liberty," by Judge C. E. Fenner; "Two Days with Gen.
Lee at Charleston," by Col. L. M. Hatch; "Reminiscenses
of Forty Years Ago," by Col. J. M. Ray; "Should Women
Vote?" byH. B. Stevens, and an address by Col. Charles W.
Woolsey on "The Asheville Art Club."
The Asheville Evening Journal. About September,
1889, this paper started on its career, Messers. Clegg & Dono-
hue being its editors and proprietors. Its advertisement in
the Lyceum of September, 1890, (p. 22) mentions that it "is
now in its second year. "
The Asheville News and Hotel Reporter. This was
a weekly paper which began publication in January, 1895, at
Asheville with the late Natt Rogers as editor and the late
Richard M. Furman as manager and publisher. It was intended
as an advertising medium for hotels principally, but soon
reached a wider sphere of usefulness, and until the health of
Mr. Rogers became too much impaired it enjoyed a period of
popularity and considerable prosperity. Its life was about
sixteen months.
Robert McKnight Furman. He was born September
21, 1846, at Louisburg, N. C, and enlisted in the Confeder
ate army in the spring of 1862, and served till the close of the
Civil War. He moved to Asheville in the spring of 1870, and
in 1873 he was married at Tarboro to Miss Mary Mathewson.
He edited the Asheville Citizen from 1873 till Messers J. D.
Cameron and Jordan Stone joined him, after which the three
conducted that paper till about 1880. He moved to Raleigh
in 1898 and became editor of the Morning Post, which flour
ished under his management till after his death at Beaufort,
N. C, May 12, 1904.
Thomas Walton Patton. He was for several years
editor of the Asheville Citizen, during which time its columns
were open to all public spirited causes. He was born at Ashe-

NEWSPAPERS 455

viUe, May 8, 1841, his father, James W. Patton, having been
a son of James Patton, one of the pioneers of Asheville. His
mother was Miss Clara Walton of Burke, and his grandmother
on his father's side was a daughter of Francis Reynolds of
Wilkes county. His mother's father was Andrew Kerr of
Kelso, Scotland. He was educated by Col. Stephen Lee,
from whose school he was graduated in 1860, after which he
went to Charleston, S. C, and entered the office of his uncle,
Thomas Kerr, a cotton factor. He enlisted in the Buncombe
Rifles in April, 1861, and at the expiration of the six months'
enlistment, he reenlisted, becoming captain of company "C" of
the Sixtieth North Carolina Infantry, in which he served till the
surrender of Johnston's army. In 1862 he married at Greens
boro, Ala., Miss Annabella Beaty Pearson. In 1866 he removed
to Alabama, where his wife and child soon afterwards died.
He returned to Asheville and went into co-partnership with
the late Albert T. Summey, in the mercantile business, for a
short time. In 1871 he married Miss Martha Bell Turner,
a daughter of James Calder Turner, a civil engineer who aided
in the laying out and construction of the Western North Caro
lina railroad to Asheville. He and his sister, Miss Frances
L. Patton, soon became active in all charitable and philan
thropic work. He was elected a county commissioner in 1878,
when he made it his first business "to visit the county paupers,
whom he found 'farmed out' to the lowest bidder and living
in huts far from the public road or any possibility of public
inspection," which system he immediately abolished. He
also visited the jails regularly, keeping up the practice of
visiting prisoners and paupers till his death. "When, in 1893,
he considered that the city administration was extravagant,
if not actually corrupt, he did not hesitate one instant, but
declared himself an independent candidate for mayor," and
was overwhelmingly elected. His two terms as mayor, for
$25 a month as a salary, resulted in much "economy, honesty,
progressiveness and efficiency" which reduced "expenses one-
half without in the least diminishing the efficiency of the
public service." In April, 1898, he enlisted in the First
North Carolina regiment, and served in Cuba, as adjutant.
His object was to influence the younger men for good, and the
survivors of that war have named the local camp in his honor.
He did much, with his sister, Miss F. L. Patton, to establish

456 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
and operate the Mission Hospital, the Children's Home, and
other works of benevolence. He died at Philadelphia,
November 6, 1907, and was buried at Asheville with every
mark of respect.
Thomas Deweese Carter. He was born on Little Ivy
in what is now Yancey county, February 14, 1834, and died
July 29, 1894. He married Miss Sarah A. E. Brown of
McDowell county, August 14, 1855. He owned a large interest
in the Cranberry iron mine in Mitchell, now Avery, county,
and during the Civil War manufactured tools there for the
Confederate government. About 1870 he wrote a series of
spirited articles on the political situation for the Raleigh Sen
tinel and the Asheville Citizen. This was the commencement
of a long and active experience as a militant newspaper editor,
for his power as a writer of virile English was pronounced.
In the spring of 1872 he came to Asheville and began a series
of articles concerning the Swepson and Littlefield frauds,
publishing his communications in the Citizen, till Captain
Natt Atkinson, its editor and owner, sold that paper to Robert
M. Furman, which necessitated the launching of a new weekly
known as the Western Expositor, by Col. Carter. This paper
immediately attracted attention not only throughout the
State, but the New York Herald paid editorial tribute to the
vigor of the Expositor's well written and vigorous editorials.
Just about 1876 Col. Carter sold the Expositor to the late W.
H. Malone, retaining only control of the editorials till after
the great campaign of 1876, when the Democrats again gained
control of the political affairs of North Carolina.
notes.
lA copy of this article can be found in ' ' The Balsam Groves of Grandfather Mountain, ' '
by S. M. Dugger, p. 261.
'W. W. Rollins to J. P. A., May 31, 1912.
8In July, 1871, the late Captain Natt Atkinson was running the Weekly Citizen, and con
tinued to do so till 1873, when the late Robert M. Furman took charge of it.
AThe Watauga Journal was the first paper ever published in Boone, but was soon suc
ceeded by the Enterprise, both being Republican. The Journal was started by a Mr. Mc-
Lauchlin of Mooresville, N. C, but he afterwards removed to Johnson City, Tenn. The
Watauga News suspended publication in 1914.

Nicholas W. "Woodfin.

CHAPTER XIX
SWEPSON AND LITTLEFIELD
That the "evil that men do lives after them while the good
is oft interred with their bones" seems to be untrue in the case
of the frauds of Swepson and Littlefield. The former was a
native of North Carolina and Littlefield of Maine. Together,
they managed to sell about $4,000,000 of the bonds of the
Western North CaroUna railroad, which had been endorsed
by the State, and appropriated the proceeds to their own use.
This delayed the building of that road from 1869 to 1880.
But most of the younger people have never even heard of this
gigantic theft. The true story as told to the Shipp Fraud
Investigating Commission follows in condensed form, and every
statement in this chapter not otherwise noted was taken from
that report between pages 220 and 498.
Soon after the Reconstruction election of 1868 there was a
special session of the legislature which, by an act ratified
August 19, 1868, divided the Western North Carolina railroad
into the Eastern Division — to extend from Salisbury to Ashe
ville — and the Western Division — to extend in two lines, one
to Paint Rock and the other to Ducktown, in Tennessee.
The State also agreed to take two-thirds of the stock of the
Western Division, which was authorized to issue its stock,'
not exceeding $12,000,000, for the completion of these two
lines. Under this act, subscriptions were invited, and 3,080
shares of stock subscribed. Of this stock Milton S. Little
field, a carpet-bag adventurer, subscribed to 2,000 shares and
Hugh Reynolds, of Statesville, to 1,000 shares. But only
five per cent of eighty shares subscribed by citizens along the
line of this proposed road was paid in cash, Littlefield and
Reynolds giving their drafts for five per cent of their subscrip
tions, payable to the order of Geo. W. Simpson, who was elected
president at the meeting to organize the Western Division,
which was held in Morganton October 15, 1868. Four direc
tors, representing the private stockholders, and eight, repre
senting the State, were also elected at that meeting. As,
however, the whole of the Western Division was required to
be under contract for its construction before the State could
(457)

458 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
be called on for its subscription, the directors made a contract
with M. S. Littlefield for this work; but it was understood
that it was a mere nominal contract, for the purpose of com
plying with the terms of the charter, the actual work to be let
afterwards to bona fide contractors. But, as no provision
had been made for a special tax levy to pay the interest on the
bonds, the act did not accomplish its purpose.
Mr. Swepson went to Raleigh in the fall of 1868 and urged the
passage of another bill through the legislature to cure this defect;
but was told by Littlefield and a man named John T. Deweese,
who were lobby lawyers, that he would get no bills through the
legislature unless he paid the same percentage that all the
other railroad presidents had agreed to pay — viz., "ten per
cent in kind of the amount of the appropriations. " Swepson
agreed to this and claimed that he afterwards "paid Little
field $240,000 in money and some bonds for his services in
procuring the passage" of the necessary legislation (Ch. 7 and
20, Laws 1868-9). Swepson had certified to the Executive of
the State on October 19, 1868, "that the entire road had been
let to contract"; and at some subsequent date he received
from the State treasurer $6,367,000 of special tax bonds of the
State, and began hypothecating or selling them in New York.
But in the spring of 1869 the case of the University Rail
road v. Holden (63 N. C, p. 410) came before the Supreme
court on the question of the constitutionality of the special
tax bonds authorized to be levied for the railroad; and Chief
Justice Pearson, believing that his associates on that bench
would be compelled to agree with his reasoning, wrote an
opinion declaring those bonds unconstitutional, meaning to
submit it to his brethern for their approval or rejection. So
confident was he that they would agree with his conclusions,
that he told Col. Wm. Johnson, a lawyer and an intimate
friend, that the court had decided the University Railroad
bonds to be unconstitutional. He then read his opinion to
Col. Johnson, and Johnson told Swepson on Thursday, July
1, 1869, that "he had just seen the opinion in Judge Pearson's
room" and that it "made the whole of the special tax bonds
unconstitutional."1 But, before the decision of the court
was announced, a motion was made by Judge Fowle for a fur
ther hearing. The motion was granted and the majority of
the judges concurred in holding the University railroad act

SWEPSON AND LITTLEFIELD 459
to be constitutional, thus over-ruling the chief justice, who,
however, filed a dissenting opinion. Mr. T. H. Porter, rep
resenting Soutter and Company, stock brokers of New York
City, came to Raleigh and arranged with the lawyers for the
rehearing. There was much discussion in the State as to this decision.
According to the testimony of James C. Turner, as given be
fore the Shipp Fraud Commission (p. 307), G. W. Swepson
told him in New York "on more than one occasion that he had
in his pocket a decision adverse to the one given and published
by the court, and that it had cost a large amount to obtain
the published opinion." Indeed, Mr. Swepson himself swore
(p. 207) that his proportion, as president of the Western Divi
sion of the Western North Carolina railroad was "60 State
bonds, charged as paid attorneys, and the following cash
charges: Paid attorneys in Raleigh $2,000. Attorneys, es
tablishing validity of bonds, $21,250. " When it is remembered
that there were ten railroads to which bonds aggregating
$25,250,000 were authorized to be issued at the same session
as the University railroad bonds had been authorized, Swep-
son's proportion of expenses in securing a favorable decision
would indicate the expenditure of an enormous sum of money.
But the Shipp Fraud Commission examined Judges R. M.
Pearson, E. G. Reade, W. B. Rodman and R. P. Dick, four
of the Supreme court judges, upon the question of obtaining
this decision, and found that none of these judges knew of any
improper or corrupt means or practice concerning it. The
only thing that could be construed as of a doubtful character
was Judge Rodman's statement, to the effect that, in August
1869, after the decision had been rendered, G. W. Swepson
voluntarily offered his personal guarantee to a brokerage firm
in New York for the margin on $100,000 of special tax bonds
for ten days; but claimed that, as the bonds had not been
sold till after the expiration of ten days, Swepson's liability
had ended and the loss had been charged to the judge. As
this is the only instance in the history of the State in which
our Supreme court was even suspected of having been cor
ruptly influenced, it is pleasant to be able to record the fact
that the men who paid out the money and the men who re
ceived it have left their testimony on record completely exon
erating the members of the court. Yet  !

460 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
T. H. Porter, in a letter of May 31, 1870, states that Badger,
Fowle, Col. E. G. Haywood, and Judge S. J. Person, attor
neys, agreed to undertake the case for $15,000, and if they
won, they were to receive an addition in State bonds. Judge
Daniel G. Fowle testified before the Shipp Fraud Commis
sion (p. 463) that he and his associates had received the cash
and bonds agreed upon, the suit having been won.
It appears that the only roads which Mr. Porter represented
in this suit were the two divisions of the Western North
Carolina, the Wilmington, Charlotte and Rutherford, and the
Western railroad companies. 2 Twenty-five of the bonds
received by the attorneys were those of the Wilmington, Char
lotte and Rutherford railroad and fifty of the Western Division
of the Western North Carolina railroad — the Western rail
road seemingly not having contributed any. (This was not
the Western North Carolina Railroad, however.) As Swepson's
share was $60,000 in bonds and $21,250 in cash, and as the
attorneys got $75,000 in bonds and $15,000 in money, nearly
$100,000 in bonds, and $6,250 in cash remain unaccounted
for. It may be that Soutter & Co., the New York brokers
represented by Mr. Porter, got this difference.
But, as indicative of the methods then in vogue, John T.
Deweese, represented by Swepson as Littlefield's partner,
had difficulty in settling with the Atlantic, Tennessee & Ohio
railroad for services in getting the legislature to authorize that
road to issue its bonds (ratified February 3, 1869) in exchange
for a like amount of State bonds, and gave Mr. R. C. Kahoe
$4,000 of these bonds to act as nominal plaintiff in an action
to restrain the State treasurer, D. A. Jenkins, from issuing
$2,000,000 of these bonds. John T. Deweese, the real party
in interest not having been a tax payer, sued out the injunc
tion in June, 1869; and R. Y. McAden, Swepson's nephew,
settled this suit by handing over more than $100,000 of these
bonds. Of these bonds, Judge Watts got $5,000, "in accord
ance with the contract between Deweese and himself, as
stated in the report of the Bragg committee." Fowle and
Badger, lawyers associated with E. G. Haywood, Esq., re
ceived $16,000 of these bonds for their services in this case,
but returned them to the railroad company upon becoming
satisfied that it was really a blackmailing scheme. As, by
the time the bonds were issued, they had fallen in price to less
than 30 cents on the dollar, the Atlantic, Tennessee & Ohio

SWEPSON AND LITTLEFIELD 461
railroad returned to the State treasurer all except such as had
been used in compromising the injunction suit.
According to the testimony of Col. N. W. Woodfin before
the Shipp Fraud Commission (p. 291) Swepson and Littlefield
intended to build the Western Division, but to do it upon
mortgage bonds, and otherwise so leave it in debt as to enable
themselves to buy it in when sold for the debt. In the mean
time, the money for which the special tax bonds might be
sold was to be used by them "in speculation and otherwise,
in order to strengthen themselves to buy it."
But, long before this time, people of the mountain section
were clamoring that work should begin on the railroad, while
Swepson was trying to sell as many of the bonds of the Western
Division as possible before the price declined in consequence
of the sudden flooding of the market with the special tax bonds
to which the other nine railroads were also entitled. On
various pretexts he postponed the signing of actual contracts
for actual work until he could obtain better prices for his bonds,
and caused the State treasurer, D. A. Jenkins, to issue some
of the bonds for the Western Division prior to all others, and
to decline to furnish bonds to the other railroads entitled to
them on the ground that the plate from which they were to
be printed had been broken. A question had arisen in New
York as to Swepson's right to sell the bonds of the Western
Division, and at a called meeting of the directors, held in Ashe
ville, July 2, 1869, the president of the company was "author
ized to sell any securities of the company, or to pledge them for
loans when in his judgment the interests of the company required
it; and in case such securities be sold to invest the proceeds in
such way as he may deem best." A certified copy of the above
resolution was sent to him in New York.
Swepson and Directors. At this time no one in North
Carolina stood higher in public respect than George W. Swep
son, while the directors were of the best people in this section.
They did not, and had no reason to, suspect him of duplicity.
They had had no experience either in the building of railroads
or the management of corporations. He told them that un
less he could sell the bonds he could not build the railroad,
and that he could not sell them unless they gave him full
authority not only to sell but to apply the proceeds as he saw
fit. They gave it unsuspectingly and in full confidence in

462 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
him. No breath of suspicion ever fell upon any of them in
consequence, or that they shared any of Swepson's ill-gotten
gains. They had done in good faith what they believed
right in order to secure the speedy building of the railroad.
On the 13th of October, 1869, at a meeting of the stock
holders at Asheville, M. S. Littlefield was elected president
in place of G. W. Swepson, who refused to serve any longer
on the ground that "his management had been a good deal
censured and he was suspected of improper conduct .
by the Western people. ..." Gen. Clingman, Col.
Davidson and Col. Woodfin opposed the election of Littlefield
to office.
So outspoken had become the criticism of the management
of this railroad and the sale of all the special tax bonds that
the legislature, by an act which was ratified March 24, 1870,
appointed J. L. Henry, N. W. Woodfin, W. P. Welch, W. G.
Candler and W. W. Rollins commissioners to "examine fully
into the affairs of the Western Division and to make a full and
final settlement of all accounts and liabilities of Geo. W.
Swepson, and to collect all assets" and apply the same to
"the construction of the railroad." It had full power and
was authorized to sit in New York or elsewhere.
But by the time this commission was appointed both Swep
son and Littlefield had left the State, the latter never to return.
The commissioners, however, immediately took up their
work, going to Washington and New York, and effected a set
tlement with Swepson before the act appointing them was
repealed, which was done at the session of 1873-74. (Ch. 119.)
The grand jury of Buncombe county returned a true bill
against Swepson and Littlefield (Minute Docket E., No. 32)
for conspiracy to defraud the State; and by a joint resolution
of January 25, 1871, the governor was requested to offer a
reward of $5,000 for the delivery of Milton S. Littlefield to
the sheriff of Buncombe county. But Littlefield was in
Florida, Holland or England, and the governor of Florida
refused to grant an order for his extradition from that State.
The settlement which the commission had effected with
Swepson was dated the 16th day of April, 1870, at
Washington, D. C, and was probably the best possible in
the circumstances, as Swepson made it appear that he
had already so encumbered all his tangible property that if

SWEPSON AND LITTLEFIELD 463
a suit were brought "it was almost certain that nothing would
be realized." Swepson was frightened and penitent, and Lit
tlefield was not present to inspire him with courage.
Now, as the directors had authorized Swepson to sell and
pledge these securities and invest their proceeds as he saw fit,
and as they had not advertised that the contracts would go
to the lowest bidders, and as, in the contracts themselves,
no time limit was made the "essence of the contract," it was
plain that Swepson and Littlefield were not alone to blame
for the condition into which the affairs of the Western Division
had fallen. In his testimony before the Shipp Fraud Commis
sion Judge J. H. Merrimon said (p. 277) : "It appeared to me,
from what I saw at the meetings of the board of directors,
which I attended, that they were a useless body of men; did
nothing, and if they had any power or authority to do any
thing, they seemed never to exercise it, except when they
were told by Swepson."
By this compromise Swepson paid $50,000 cash and gave
his drafts on Littlefield as president of the Jacksonville, Pensa-
cola and Mobile railroad and endorsed by M. S. Littlefield
and G. W. Swepson as president of the Florida Central rail
road, aggregating $264,000, payable four and twelve months
after date, $164,000 of which was secured by a mortgage on
certain lands of Swepson's in North Carolina, the said lands
to be discharged upon payment on each tract as follows:
Eagle hotel in Asheville upon payment of  $ 5 , 000
Gid Morris place of 1,600 acres upon payment of  12,000
David Hennessee lands in Cherokee upon payment of . . 7 , 500
Charles Moore place of 600 acres upon payment of  6,500
The Sharp place of about 300 acres upon payment of . . 3 , 000
The Woodfin place in Macon county upon pament of. . 2,000
The Jarrett place on Nantahala river upon payment of . 5 , 000
The Horshaw lands on Valley river upon payment of . . . 5 , 500
The Fain lands in Cherokee county upon payment of . 5 , 000
$51,500
In addition to the above, upon which no amount was fixed
for their redemption, the mortgage was to cover the marble and
lime lands in Catawba county, owned in co-partnership with
Dr. A. M. Powell, "about 90,000 acres in Macon, Cherokee
and Clay counties, known as the Olmstead lands, and a lot of
about 50,000 acres held by Joseph Keener in trust for Geo.
W. Swepson."

464 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
It was further agreed that the draft for $164,000 might
be paid in railroad iron delivered at Portsmouth, Virginia;
and that if an umpire, to be appointed by N. W. Woodfin and
M. W. Ransom, in case they could not agree, should decide
that Swepson had not been authorized by his board of direc
tors to invest the proceeds of the sales of these bonds in these
Florida railroads, then Swepson was to guarantee that $880,-
000 of the amount of $1,287,436.03 transferred in Florida
railroad securities should be paid or made fully secure; and that,
otherwise, there should be no such obligation on Swepson's part.
In addition to the above the agreement provided that an
interest in the above named railroad, amounting to $1,287,-
466.03, should be transferred and conveyed to the Western
Division of the Western North Carolina Railroad Company.
It developed soon afterwards that, although Swepson claimed
to have turned over these securities in the Florida railroads
to Littlefield, yet, when the latter became president of the
Western Division, in October, 1869, he then stated that they
were the property of the Western Division, having been pur
chased with the proceeds of the sale of the special tax bonds
of said railroad, but had been pledged with Edward
Houston, of Georgia to secure the payment of a large indebt
edness of Littlefield to said Houston, and were about to be
sold. Thereupon the Western Division obtained an injunc
tion in the Supreme court of the State of New York in Octo
ber, 1870, restraining Littlefield and Houston from making
the sale. But, before the order could be served, Houston
"fled with the said stock and bonds from New York to New
Jersey, and from there to Georgia, in order to avoid the law
and keep fraudulent possession" of the securities, which right
fully belonged to the Western Division. This stock consisted
"of about 4,370 shares (being nearly the entire capital stock)"
of the Florida Central Railroad Company, "which company had
then no mortgage debt upon its line of railroad, which was sixty
miles long, completed and in good running order." The
bonds of the Pensacola and Georgia railroad and of the Tal
lahassee railroad amounted to $1,000,000, and cost Swepson
$720,000 of the proceeds of the special tax bonds of the West
em Division, including "some stock in said company and pay
ing expenses incident to such purchases." These railroads
had been sold in March, 1869, under foreclosure, and brought

SWEPSON AND LITTLEFIELD 465
in by the trustees of the Internal Improvement Fund
of the State of Florida for $1,400,000, "the amount of the
whole mortgage indebtedness of both of the railroads. " Thus,
the Western Division had secured legal title to a majority of
the stock of an unencumbered railroad 60 miles in length and
owned ten-fourteenths of two other Florida railroads absolutely
unencumbered. If, therefore, the settlement effected at
Washington had stood intact, there is little doubt but that
the courts would have confirmed the interest of 'the Western
Division in these three Florida railroads, as its money had been
invested in them.
But Col. Woodfin was soon called to London, England,
where a supplemental settlement was made on the 10th of
November, 1870, with Littlefield, representing the Florida
railroads, by which he agreed to take for the interest
of the Western Division in those Florida railroads 800 eight
per cent bonds of the State of Florida, of $1,000 each, and
enough rails, etc., to lay 53 miles of railroad down the
French Broad river to Paint Rock, including sidings, etc.
This iron was to be delivered duty free at Norfolk, Va., in
three lots, aggregating 1,800 tons, and the rest at New York,
the last shipment to be completed by September 1, 1871. An
additional shipment was to be made of 1,000 tons to New York,
with the necessary chairs and spikes to lay the same, by Sep
tember 1, 1871, "the shipping of which the said S. W. Hop
kins & Co. are to guarantee." But, to get this settlement,
Mr. Woodfin had to agree in writing that he would pay a claim
of $20,000 held by Henry Clews & Co., of New York, against
Geo. W. Swepson, and to leave the 800 Florida bonds with
Hopkins & Co. for sale at such price as Mr. Woodfin should
direct. Mr. Woodfin also receipted for two hundred pounds
sterling, paid him at that time. With the lights before him,
this was a most excellent settlement. He did not know of the
complications existing in Florida.
This iron was shipped according to agreement but was
diverted by Hopkins & Co., to Detroit, Mich., for the purpose
of completing the Rock Fish Railroad, a branch of the Michi
gan Central. Major Rollins discovered this before the iron
was actually laid down, and attached it. Mr. Woodfin arrived
soon afterwards from New York with a warrant for the arrest
and a requisition for the return to New York of S. W. Hop-
W. N. C— 30

466 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
kins, the contractor, with whom Major Rollins had thought
he was about to effect a satisfactory settlement. The officer
from New York would not wait till this settlement could be
effected and hurried his prisoner, Hopkins, back to New York
City. By the time the case was to be heard on the question of
ownership of the iron the clerk who had identified it for Major
Rollins had disappeared and the iron and $10,000 in cash
which had been deposited to indemnify the real owner of the
iron was lost to the State. The clerk had been "seen."
But that was not to be the end of the bunco game by any
means; for in May of the very year of which in April he had
signed the Washington agreement, Geo. W. Swepson, while
president of the Florida Central railroad had, without any
authority of the board of directors of that road, issued $1,000-
000 of bonds, which he signed as president in Washington,
D. C, and caused one H. H. Thompson, who was not the
treasurer of that road, to sign as such treasurer, F. H.
Flagg being then the lawful treasurer. But Swepson and
Littlefield gave Houston, to whom Littlefield was in
debted, Littlefield's note for $163,000 secured by 4,370
shares of stock and 103 Pensacola and Georgia rail
road bonds, and the $1,000,000 of Florida Central railroad
bonds, which were to be fraudulently issued by them. Thus,
the value of the interest in the Florida railroads had been sur
reptitiously reduced very materially if not altogether destroyed;
for in January, 1871, Littlefield paid his $163,000 note and ob
tained from Houston the surrender of the collateral which had
been given to secure its payment. Then, one Thomas E. Cod-
rington appeared on the scene and got possession of the fraud
ulent $1,000,000 of Florida Central bonds, which, under acts
of the Florida legislature of June 24, 1869, and January 28,
1870, he surrendered to the State of Florida, and obtained in
their stead a like number of Florida State bonds. But, strange
to relate, Codrington got, instead of Florida State bonds,
$1,000,000 of bonds of the Jacksonville, Pensacola and Mobile
Railroad Company, which had been authorized by act of the
Florida legislature of June 24, 1869, but of which only $3,000,000
of an authorized issue of $4,000,000 had been issued by the gov
ernor of Florida. Thus, apparently, had been cured the ille
gality of the same amount of bonds which Swepson had issued
in Washington for the benefit of the Florida Central Railroad

SWEPSON AND LITTLEFIELD 467
Company, to which the signature of H. H. Thompson, the
fictitious treasurer, had been attached.
For this transaction, in January, 1872, Governor Harrison Reed
of Florida was impeached and removed, and after the carpet-bag
regime was entirely overthrown in 1876, and Hon. Thomas
Settle of North Carolina had been appointed judge of the
district court of the northern district of Florida, a hope was
entertained that a court of equity would place the Western
Division of the Western North Carolina Railroad in at least
as good a position as it had occupied when its money had been
originally invested in the three Florida railroads, and would
not allow it to suffer by the illegal and fraudulent acts of
those who had ceased to be its agents when those acts had
been committed.
Now, Major Rollins had been elected president of the West
ern Division of the Western North Carolina railroad upon
the disappearance of M. S. Littlefield and, subsequently, to
the presidency of the Eastern Division, and, followed the
railroad's interest into Florida, and the control of the Florida
railroads. Accordingly, in February, 1877, he instituted a
suit in equity in the circuit court of the United States for the
Northern district of Florida, in which the Western Division
of the Western North Carolina railroad sought to have the
bonds of the Florida Central railroads, which had been ex
changed for Florida State bonds, declared unlawful; but Judge
Joseph P. Bradley, one of the justices of the Supreme Court
of the United States, in an opinion filed May 31, 1879, dismissed
the bill with costs, on the ground that the Western Division
of the Western North Carolina railroad, by agreements made
at Washington and in London, had "acquiesced in the issue
of the bonds and only claimed to share in the proceeds there
of." The Supreme Court of the United States afterwards
affirmed this decision in a case entitled Florida Central Rail
road Company v. Schutte and others, upon the ground that, in the
language of Chief Justice Waite: "There can be no doubt
that the governor of Florida was active in promoting the
sale, as was also the chairman of the commission appointed
by the General Assembly of North Carolina. The bonds
were taken at once to London and from there put on the
market in Holland where most or all of these sales appear
to have been made. The bonds were undoubtedly steeped

468 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
in fraud at their inception, but they were nevertheless State
bonds on the market in a foreign country, etc. " The court
held in effect that as the Western Division had adopted the
property purchased by an embezzler with its money, its rights
were subordinate to those of innocent purchasers of the same
class of securities, and were charged with all the liens Swep
son had put upon them. 3
North Carolina afterwards repudiated all of these special
tax bonds along with others which had been issued by the
carpet-bag government of 1868-70. NOTES.
2In Galloway v. Jenkins (63 N. C, p. 147) the Supreme Court had held only a short
time before that the State could not contract a debt to build a new railroad except by an
affirmative vote of the people, because to do so before the bonds of the State had reached
par would violate Art. 5, See. 5, of the State Constitution; although it is true that in this
case Judges Reade and Settle had dissented.
2Hon. Samuel W. Watts was the Superior court judge who had issued the injunction
in June, 1869. Shipp's Fraud Com. Rep. , p. 447
s103 U. S. Rep., 327 (13 Otto— 118-145).

William H. Thomas,
"Father of Western North Carolina Railroad."

CHAPTER XX
RAILROADS
The First Railroad Project.1 "When, about the year
1836, a railroad from Cincinnati to Charleston, which should
pass through Asheville, was projected, Robert Y. Hayne, the
great South Carolinian who had vanquished Daniel Webster
in debate, was made its president. At a meeting of this com
pany, held in Asheville in 1839, Mr. Hayne, who had continued
to be its president, became dangerously ill, and died here
September 24, 1839, in the old Eagle Hotel building."
The railroads which had been built prior to 1845 "were all in
the eastern portion of the State. The need of a road toward
the mountains was strikingly shown by the failure of the
crops in the western counties. 2 Owing to this failure, even
the necessaries of life became dear in that section. Corn rose
from fifty cents to a dollar and a half a bushel; and yet, at the
same time, corn in the eastern counties was rotting in the fields
for lack of a market, and fish were being used to enrich the
ground. The condition of the [wagon] roads in 1848 was,
however, such as to discourage further expense. "
A Crop Failure Started Railroad Interest. This
general failure of crops in the mountain regions called atten
tion to the want of communication between the two sections
of the State; and in 1850-51 $12,000 was appropriated by the
legislature to survey a route for a railroad from Salisbury to
the Tennessee line where the French Broad river passes into
Tennessee. The Western North Carolina Railroad. Although
it is generally supposed that the Western North Carolina
railroad had its genesis in 1855, the North Carolina and West
ern railroad, to run from Salisbury to the Tennessee line,
was chartered as early as 1852 (Ch. 136). Its authorized
capital stock was $3,000,000. Nothing of consequence, how
ever, was accomplished under this charter.
Legislative History. "In 1854 the State of North
Carolina was completeing the construction of her great work,
the North Carolina railroad, and emboldened by this success
and having in view a connection of her then existing system
(469)

470 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
of railroads with the proposed Blue Ridge railroad, and so with
the Great West, there was passed an act entitled: 'An Act
to incorporate the Western North Carolina Railroad Com
pany,' ratified February 15, 1855 (Laws of North Caro
lina 1854-55, ch. 228, p. 257), which, after reciting the pur
pose 'of constructing a railroad to effect a communication
between the North Carolina railroad and the Valley of the
Mississippi,' provided for the organization of a corporation
under the style of Western North Carolina Railroad Company,
with power 'to construct a railroad, with one or more tracks,
from the town of Salisbury on the North Carolina railroad,
passing by or as near as practicable to Statesville, in the county
of Iredell, to some point on the French Broad river, beyond
the Blue Ridge, and if the legislature shall hereafter determine,
to such point as it shall designate, at a future session. ' Four
years later, when the line had been located from Salisbury
to the French Broad river at Asheville, the general assembly
supplemented this original charter and definitely fixed the
route of the proposed line in an act entitled: 'An Act to
amend an Act entitled: "An Act to incorporate the Western
North Carolina Railroad Company" passed at the session
of 1854-55, and also an act amendatory thereof passed at the
session of 1856-57' (Ratified February 15, 1859. Private
Laws of North Carolina 1858-59, ch. 170, p. 217). 3 This
directed that the survey be continued 'from the point near
Asheville to which the survey has already been made, extend
ing west through the valley of the Pigeon and Tuckaseegee
rivers, to a point on the line of the Blue Ridge railroad on the
Tennessee river, or to the Tennessee line at or near Ducktown,
in the county of Cherokee, ' and thereby located a line which
would connect the North Carolina railroad with the Blue Ridge
railroad, an extension which has since been realized, without
the Blue Ridge railroad connection, in the existing Murphy
branch. "As the legislature was intent, however, on effecting some
western connection for the North Carolina system of rail
roads, the Western North Carolina was not limited to an
alliance with the Blue Ridge railroad, but it was provided
that the extension from Asheville might be ' down the French
Broad river, through Madison county, to the line of the State
of Tennessee at or near Paint Rock, ' which might ' connect

RAILROADS 471

with any company that has been formed or may be formed to
complete the railroad connection with the East Tennessee and
Virginia railroad. ' " 4
Surveys were accordingly made for both of these proposed
lines, and these surveys were duly approved by the legisla
ture at its next session in an act ratified February 18, 1861.
(Private Laws of North Carolina 1860-61, ch. 138, p. 154).
"The alternative, or Paint Rock line so authorized, being
that of Louisville, Cincinnati, and Charleston, which had
been pronounced in the reports of the engineer read at the
Knoxville convention in 1836 to be extraordinarily feasible
for a railroad, would no doubt have been originally adopted
by the Western North Carolina but for the fact that in
1859 the Blue Ridge railroad was still considered certain of
construction, while the Cincinnati, Cumberland Gap and
Charleston Railroad Company, which held the Tennessee
franchise to carry on the old Louisville, Cincinnati and
Charleston line from Paint Rock to a connection with the East
Tennessee and Virginia railroad at Morristown, was finan
cially weak.
"As the securing of a through trunk line was the principal
object for which the construction of the Western North Car
olina was undertaken, the proposed Blue Ridge connection
accordingly dictated the adoption of the line from Asheville
toward Murphy as the main line of the Western North Caro
lina and it was so considered as late as 1868 when the Con
stitutional convention, then in session, passed an ordinance
entitled: 'An ordinance for the completion of the Western
North Carolina Railroad,' ratified March 14, 1868 (Ordi
nances of 1868, ch. 50, p. 100), which provided that no part
of the subscription of the State to the Western North Carolina
should be used in the construction of branch lines, except
the line to Paint Rock, until 'the main trunk line of said rail
road shall have been completed to Copper Mine, at or near
Ducktown' and furthermore that the General Assembly 'is
hereby authorized and directed to make such further appro
priation or subscription to the capital stock of said railroad
company as will insure the completion of said road at the
earliest practicable day.'
" The Paint Rock line, thus relegated to the status of a branch,
was not, however, abandoned, but it was considered that the

472 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Tennessee enterprise of the Cincinnati, Cumberland Gap
and Charleston was primarily interested therein, as is evidenced
by the act entitled: 'An Act to amend the Charter of the
Western North Carolina Railroad' ratified March 4, 1867,
(Public Laws of N. C. 1866-67, ch. 94, p. 152), which author
ized the Western North Carolina to construct its line from
Asheville to Paint Rock upon the 'Tennessee Gauge,' and to
so maintain it until the entire line was completed, and the gauge
of the North Carolina railroad could be established thereon
uniformly. 'It was the realization of the Paint Rock line
in 1881, however, that opened the only railroad which has ever
been built through the southern ranges of the Appalachian
Mountains. " 4
Route and Connections. It will be seen from the above
how the route was changed from that originally contemplated. 6
It was never purposed to build this railroad by way of Frank
lin; as that town was on the proposed Blue Ridge line from
Walhalla, S. C, and it was the intention to connect with that
line; but this connection was contemplated at some point
west of Franklin, Ducktown, Tennessee, having been consid
ered at one time as the point of junction, due to ignorance
of the topography of the western part of the State, as the
connection must necessarily have been somewhere on the
Little Tennessee, that stream rising in Raburn gap, Ga.
Rapid Progress. The Western North Carolina railroad
was chartered by an act which was ratified February 15, 1855,
and work was begun and the railroad completed and put into
operation to within a few miles east of Morganton by the
summer of 1861. A contract had been given to Crockford,
Malone & Co., in September, 1860, when Dr. A. M. Powell
was president of the railroad company, for the completion of
the road from a point near Old Fort to the western portal of
the Swannanoa tunnel, for a specified sum, plus 20 per cent
for contingencies. These contractors stopped work in the
spring of 1861 on account of the war, having done about $27,-
000 worth of work. Soon after the close of the Civil War,
while Mr.  Caldwell was president and Capt. Samuel
Kirkland was chief engineer, the road was completed to Mor
ganton by paying 50 per cent increase on estimates made previous
to the war, the increase being due to depreciation of currency.
Colonel W. A. Eliason was elected chief engineer in 1868 and

RAILROADS 473

continued as such till April, 1871. Previous to 1868 Col.
Eliason had been assistant engineer. The line had been
changed in the winter of 1860-61 for a considerable distance
on sections 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 and this reduced the estimates by
$171,293. Location on the Blue Ridge Changed. The route up the
eastern slope of the Blue Ridge was changed after the war
to one with longer, safer and lighter grades than those of
the original survey. e
Engineers and Mountain Work. While Col. J. W.
Wilson was chief engineer Col. S. W. McD. Tate became
president, and in October, 1866, the board of directors ordered
the resumption of work west of Morganton, and the precedent
of paying 50 per cent advance was followed. In January,
1868, the contract for the work from Old Fort to the western
portal of the Swannanoa tunnel was let to John Malone &
Co., diminished by the work which had been done by Crock-
ford, Malone & Co., plus 50 per cent to the original estimates.
A Proposition was afterwards made to Col. Wilson that, if he
would turn over $200,000 of first mortgage bonds of the road,
the chief engineer would make out estimates for $701,000 in
addition to what he had received, which would be a majority
of the $1,400,000 bonds authorized by the act of December
19, 1866. This proposition was made at the Boyden House
in Salisbury in December, 1870, and the object was claimed
to be to get control of the majority of the bonds and thus
prevent a forced foreclosure of the railroad:
" Some time in the fall of 1869 I had conversation with Col.
Tate in relation to the condition of the road. 7 ... In
one of those conversations in Morganton it was suggested that
the sale of the road could not be forced unless a majority of
the bonds got into the hands of one person. I suggested to
Col. Tate that probably the contract with John Malone & Co.
could be made useful in preventing the sale; that they claimed
compensation for their work according to the old estimates and
contract with Crockford and Malone. I thought they were
bound by the estimates on the line as changed by me, but that
I would sign the estimates according to the old notes, with the
understanding that 600 of the bonds were to be delivered to
Maj. Wilson, and 200 were to be placed in my hands ; for the
whole was to be held so that they would not be put on the

474 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
market and get into the hands of the New York speculators,
and thereby endanger the sale of the road. The 800 were to
be divided between Maj. Wilson and myself, so that no one
was to have a majority of the bonds. 'Col. Wilson declined
this proposition,' as it was ' much more than was due me, and
I regarded the transaction as corrupt.' " 8
A Change op Officers. Dr. J. J. Mott succeeded Col.
Tate as president of this division of the road, Col. Tate becom
ing financial agent when he secured the State bonds issued
on account of the company. The office of financial agent
was abolished in 1869. Col. Tate accounted for all these
bonds before the Bragg committee, which found his official
conduct correct.
John Malone & Co. The firm of John Malone & Co.,
was composed of John Malone, J. W. Wilson and Mr. Golds-
borough of Maryland. J. W. Wilson had been the chief engineer
and superintendent of the road from the summer of 1864
until the provisional governor was appointed in 1865. He
was afterwards reappointed by the directors named by Gov.
Worth and held the position until the spring of 1867, when he
resigned in order to go into business. Up to September, 1871,
John Malone & Co., had been paid for their work about $600,-
000, the estimate of the whole contract having been $1,959,-
000, two-thirds of which was to be paid in cash and one-third
in stock, leaving $220,000 still due to the contractors. The
Swepson and Littlefield frauds brought all work to a stop in
1870. (See Chapter XIX.)
Western Division Abolished. At its session of 1873-74
the legislature repealed the act appointing the Woodfin commis
sion and required the commissioners to turn over all the books
and property of the Western Division to the directors of the
Western North Carolina railroad, upon whom devolved
the former duties of the commissioners; and the legislature
of 1876-77 required the president of the railroad to report
what property he had acquired from Swepson and Littlefield
in his settlement with them. This Western Division consisted
of the Murphy and Paint Rock lines. The Eastern Division
was the line from Salisbury to Asheville.
Early Litigation. The Western North Carolina railroad
got into trouble with its creditors, and, in 1874-75, we find a
joint resolution to ascertain what the claims against the road

RAILROADS 475

could be bought for, and another joint resolution to appeal
to the Supreme Court of the United States from the de
cision of the United States court at Greensboro in the case of
Henry Clews, Hiram Sibley and others v. the Western Division
of the Western North Carolina railroad, and, finally (Ch. 150)
an act to authorize the purchase of the road under the decree
for its sale at not more than $850,000, with authority to
issue seven per cent bonds to that amount, secured by a mort
gage of the property; and to complete the road to Paint Rock
and Murphy, the State to have three-fourths of the stock
and the private stockholders the other third.
"By an act ratified March 13, 1875 (laws of North Carolina
1874-75, ch. 150, p. 172), the Governor, Curtis H. Brogden,
the president of the senate, R. F. Armfield, and the Speaker
of the House, James L. Robinson, were constituted a com
mission with power to purchase the Western North Carolina
railroad at the forthcoming sale in the Sibley suit for not
exceeding $850,000, the amount which had been adjudged
due on the outstanding first mortgage bonds issued by the
Eastern Division. In order to force through the negotiations
for the purchase of the outstanding claims, this commission
was later authorized to prosecute an appeal in the Sibley suit
to the Supreme Court of the United States, by resolution adopted
March 20, 1875. (Laws of North Carolina 1874-75, p. 405.
See also a resolution concerning the expenses of this commis
sion, ratified January 11, 1877, Laws of North Carolina 1876-77,
p. 582.)
"This finally resulted in the execution of an agreement
under date of April 17, 1875, whereby all the parties in interest,
including the East Tennessee, Virginia and Georgia, the North
Carolina Railroad Company and McAden, assigned all their
claims to the State commission consisting of Messrs. Brog
den, Armfield and Robinson, in consideration of their agree
ment to purchase and reorganize the Western North Caro
lina, and to issue new first mortgage bonds for $850,000 to be
ratably distributed among the parties in interest. This
agreement was thereupon carried out, and reorganization
by the State followed; the new corporation, hereinafter styled
Western North Carolina Railroad Company No. 2, taking
possession of the property on October 1, 1875. " 9
Organization. By chapter 105 of the laws of 1876-77 the

476 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Western North Carolina railroad was organized with a capital
stock of $850,000, three-fourths of which belonged to the
State and one-fourth to the private stockholders to be appoint
ed according to their several interests. The State also under
took to furnish 500 convicts to work on the road and the
governor was authorized to buy iron to lay the track from
the then terminus near Old Fort. It was also provided that
when the road should have been completed to Asheville the
convicts were to be divided equally, one-half to work on the
Paint Rock line and the other half on the Murphy division,
and that after the line should have been completed to Paint
Rock, all the convicts were to be employed on the line to
Murphy. Apparently, however, the State became uncertain
as to the securities of the Richmond & Danville railroad for
its lease of the Western North Carolina Railroad, for
on the 23d of January, 1877, a joint resolution was adopted
to enquire into the sufficiency of those securities. In 1879
the Western Division was abolished and consolidated with
the Eastern Division under the name of the Western North
Carolina Railroad Company.
jgvW. J. Best & Co. A special session of the legislature was
called "and by an act of March 29, 1880, (Ch. 26) the State
agreed to sell the Western North Carolina railroad to Wm.
J. Best, Wm. R. Grace, James D. Fish and J. Nelson Tappan
subject to the mortgage of 1875 for $850,000, on which the
purchasers were to pay the interest, etc.
The agreement of April 27, 1880, between Wm. J. Best
et al. and the State of North Carolina, among other things,
recited :
" The Act of March 29, 1880, and provides in consideration of the
delivery of a deed by the Commissioners named in said act to the United
Trust Company, to be held in escrow, that the purchasers will :
" 1. Complete the line to Paint Rock on or before July 1, 1881, and
to Murphy on or before January 1, 1885.
"2. Repay to the State all moneys expended on the road after March
29, 1880.
" 3. Pay to the State $125 per annum rent for each of five hundred
able-bodied convicts.
" 4. That no bonds will be issued except as provided in the act.
" 5. That they will deliver $520,000 of their first mortgage bonds,
when issued and $30,000 cash, to make up the aggregate of $550,000,
invested by the State in the property, to the State Treasurer.

RAILROADS 477

" 6. That they will pay the interest on the outstanding $850,000 of
W. N. C. No. 2 bonds." ' °
Clyde, Logan and Buford. "Clyde, Logan and Buford,
in 1880, loaned W. J. Best money and he failed to pay same
back and forfeited the road, he assigning all his interest to
Messrs. Clyde, Logan and Buford on May 28, 1880.' ' l ° These
men controlled both the Richmond and Danville Railroad
Company and the Richmond and West Point Terminal
Company. x x
The Richmond and Danville. The Richmond and Danville
Railroad Company at one time owned the Richmond and
West Point Terminal Company, and afterwards the Richmond
and West Point Terminal Company bought the Richmond
and Danville. Under the assignment from Best the Rich
mond Terminal Company came into control of the Western
North Carolina and immediately proceeded with the work,
issuing two mortgages for this purpose. x 3
"The Richmond Terminal Company acquired the Western North
Carolina in the mterest of the expanding R. &. D system to extend its
fine from a connection at Salisbury with the North Carolina Railroad,
which the R. & D. was operating in 1880 under lease.
"For the next five years while the construction of the Western North
Carolina was being completed the operation was carried on in the name
of Western North Carolina No. 3 as is evidenced by an act entitled :
" 'An Act empowering the Western North CaroUna Railroad Company
to construct telegraph and telephone lines on its right of way. '
"Ratified March 6, 1885.
"Laws of North Carolina 1885, ch. 294, p. 542, which authorized the
company to do a general telegraph business, but in 1886, when the R.
& D. was assuming the operation of most of the Richmond Terminal
lines in its own name, the following lease was executed :
"'Western North Carolina Railroad Co., to Richmond and Danville
Railroad Company, lease dated April 30, 1886 : Term Ninety-nine
years. Rental : Net earnings above fixed charges. (Abrogated May
5, 1894.)' "12
Richmond Terminal. "From this it will be seen that the
property was operated as the Western North Carolina but
was held by the Richmond Terminal Company up to April
30, 1886, from which time to May 5, 1894, when the Southern
Railway purchased the property, it was operated by the Rich
mond & Danville under lease. " 1 2
The State Sells the Railroad. By an act of 1883 (ch.
241) the State agreed to sell the road to Clyde, Logan and

478 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Buford, assignees of W. J. Best and associates, provided they
should complete it to the mouth of the Nantahala river by
September 1, 1884, and should keep at work beyond that
point 75 convicts. They were also required to purchase of
the State treasurer $520,000 of the coupon bonds of the West
ern North CaroUna railroad which they had deposited with
the State treasurer under sections 12 and 24 of the act of
March 29, 1880. The road was finished into Andrews in the
summer of 1889 and to Murphy in 1891. Soon thereafter,
to wit, on June 15, 1892, the old Richmond & Danville Rail
road went into the hands of receivers, Fred W. Hidekoper,
Reuben Foster, and, later on, Samuel Spencer, and emerged
therefrom as the Southern Railway Company, August 22, 1894,
when the order was made confirming the sale of the road which
had been made by Charles Price, special master, on August
21 at Salisbury, for $500,000.
Completion of the Railroad. From 1869 and thereafter for
several years, passengers were taken from Old Fort, the terminus
of the railroad, to Asheville in stage coaches operated by the
late Ed. T. Clemmons, contractor. Jack Pence "drove the
mountain, " as the end of the line nearest Old Fort was called,
handling "the ribbons" over six beautiful white horses. The
part of the trip down the mountains was always made at
night, but there was never an accident. After several years
the road was completed to a station called Henry's, where it
remained till 1879, when it had been finished to Azalia, 130
miles west of Salisbury. The formidable Blue Ridge had
been successfully surmounted at last.
The Andrews Geyser. A hotel and geyser-like fountain
were maintained at Round Knob from about 1885 to about
the close of the last century, when the hotel was burned.
The fountain had ceased some time before that; but in 1911
George F. Baker of New York, as a testimonial to the ser
vices Col. A. B. Andrews had rendered in the development
of Western North Carolina, restored the fountain at his own
expense. It throws a stream of water 250 feet into the air.
Arrival at Various Points. l i The railroad was completed
to Biltmore on Sunday, October 3, 1880; to Alexanders, 10
miles below Asheville on the French Broad, on the 4th day
of July, 1881, and to Paint Rock January 25, 1882. The
bridge at Marshall was finished June 15, 1882. The Murphy

RAILROADS 479

branch was completed to Pigeon river, now Canton, January
28, 1882, reaching Waynesville later in the same year.
Progress West op Waynesville. If the original plan
to have a tunnel through the Balsam mountain had been
adhered to the terminus of the road must have remained at
Waynesville many years; but the road was built over the
mountain by a difficult and dangerous grade, and the work
which had been done on the tunnel in 1869 and 1870 was
abandoned. This Balsam gap is the highest railroad pass
east of the Rocky mountains, being about 3,100 feet above
sea level. . . . The road was completed to Dillsboro in
1883 and to Bryson city in 1884. It reached Jarrett's station,
or Nantahala, at the mouth of the Red Marble creek, Novem
ber 23, 1884. Here it stayed a long time, due to the fact
that a tunnel had been contemplated through the Red Marble
gap of the Valley River Mountain; but after the grading had
been completed nearly to the gap it was discovered that the
soil would not support the roof and sides of a tunnel, and the
whole work had to be done over again and the roadbed placed
on a much higher grade. This serious error cost many thou
sands of dollars and long delay. The road was finished to
Andrews in the summer of 1889, and its entrance into Mur
phy was celebrated in 1891, on the same day the corner
stone of the fine new court house was laid. The
original survey required the road to go by old Valley Town,
but it was changed. Several of the convicts who helped to
build this road settled in Murphy when their terms expired
and are making good citizens
Spartanburg and Asheville Railroad. This road was com
pleted to Saluda, twelve miles east of Hendersonville in 1879,
and to Hendersonville about 1882. It was necessary that
Buncombe county should contribute to the building of this
railroad. Buncombe's Subscription. On the 5th of August, 1875,
there were 1,944 votes for subscription to $100,000 of the
stock of the Spartanburg and Asheville railroad, and only
242 votes against subscription, and the bonds were issued,
bearing six per cent interest and due in twenty years. But
they were issued only as the grading was completed and
amounted at the end to only $98,000 in all. These bonds were
refunded at par by new bonds dated July 1, 1895, due in twenty

480 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
years, under Chapter 172, Public Laws 1893. But at the meet
ing of the Republican board of county commissioners on De
cember 27, 1897, they ratified a contract which had been
made by the board and Hon. A. C. Avery, Mark W. Brown
and Moore & Moore, attorneys, to contest the validity of
the bonds in a case entitled the County Commissioners v. W.
R. Payne, County Treasurer. This attempted repudiation
was used by the Democrats to defeat the Republicans in
November, 1898. But the Democrats themselves after
wards employed counsel to carry out the repudiation of
these bonds on the ground that the bill had not been
read on three separate days in each house. However,
certain holders of these bonds soon brought an action in the
District court of the United States, which held that the bonds
were valid.
Richmond Pearson's Bill. Having secured the $100,000
subscription from Buncombe county, the officers of this road
seemed satisfied to keep its terminal at Hendersonville indefi
nitely. Consequently, in 1885, Hon. Richmond Pearson,
of Buncombe, introduced a bill in the legislature to declare
forfeited the charter of the Spartanburg and Asheville Railroad
Company, but before it could be read a second time, the railroad
company began work and in 1886 completed the road to
Asheville. During the time the road's terminus remained
at Hendersonville Buncombe county was paying interest on
the $98,000 of bonds which had been issued.
The South and Western Railroad. The South and West
ern railroad was completed from Johnson City, Tennessee, to
Huntdale, Yancey county, North Carolina, in 1900. It was
afterwards built to Spruce Pine in 1904.
The Southern Railway in the Manger. From the
decision of the Supreme court in the case of the Johnson City
Southern Railway against the South and Western Railroad
Company 1 5 it is clear that the Southern Railway Company
in 1907 attempted to defeat the building of this incomparable
railroad now crossing the mountains from Marion, North
Carolina, to Johnson City, Tennessee, by alleging that it (the
Southern) was seeking to condemn land along the North Toe
river in Yancey county for the purpose of constructing a railway
from the coal fields to tidewater, when in point of fact it "did
not in good faith intend to construct a railroad over the line

RAILROADS 481

in controversy," but had caused the Johnson City railroad
to be "incorporated for the purpose of hindering, delaying
and obstructing the building of a railroad along the North
Toe by the South and Western Railway Company which
was in good faith constructing a railroad from Johnson City
to Spruce Pine in North Carolina, and was oper
ating the same." 16
The Southern's Plan. The plan of the Southern Rail
way had been to pretend that it meant to build a railroad
along this river, although it was well aware that the South
and Western had already built such a road along the stream
from Johnson City to Spruce Pine; and, by appealing to the
courts, to prevent the real road from changing its track from
the east to the west bank of the river in order to obtain a bet
ter grade, which it had commenced to do in November, 1905,
while the dummy corporation the Southern railway was using
for this purpose had not been incorporated till December
of the following year. Upon this the court said :
Courts Not to be Used to Prevent Progress. "It is
not of so much interest to the public which of two corporations
build the road as it is that, by using the courts in the way
suggested, they prevent either from doing so. If the course^
proposed by the 'Southern Railway' be permitted, the State
has granted her franchise, with its sovereign power, to her
own hindrance. If in creating two corporations she has
conferred power upon both by which, through the instru
mentality of her own courts, the building of railroads may
be retarded, if not ultimately defeated, and her mountain
fastnesses remain locked in their primitive isolation, the
legislature may well consider whether some restriction should
not be put upon corporations enjoying such power. If the
course proposed by the 'Southern Railway' be permitted,
railroad building may be 'tied up' indefinitely by repeatedly
renewed condemnation proceedings, contested until the end
has been reached, and then withdrawn, only to be repeated
in another form. " 16
The Carolina, Clinchfield and Ohio Railroad. The
South and Western, also known as the " Three C's, " but now the
Carolina, Clinchfield and Ohio, was completed to Marion,
in 1908. It is the best constructed railroad in the mountains,
the grades and curvatures being far less than those of the
Southern from Old Fort to Morristown.
W. N. C— 31

482 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Alleged Peonage. During the time the heavy work on
the eastern slope of the Blue Ridge was being done, con
struction companies were given contracts for the building
of certain sections of the line. Among these contractors
was the Carolina Construction Company. Labor was hard
to get, and in order to secure laborers this Construction Com
pany paid the expenses of certain men to their camp. They
worked half a day and slipped off, were followed, captured,
returned to camp and imprisoned till nightfall, when they were
taken out and severely whipped. The facts appear in Buck-
ner v. South & Western Railway Co., 159 N. C, going up on
appeal from Buncombe county. This was known as the
"peonage case."
The Snow Bird Valley Railroad. The Kanawha Hard
wood Company, with that progressive and public spirited Vir
ginian, J. Q. Barker, at its head, came in 1902 and constructed
the Snow Bird Valley logging railroad for a distance of fifteen
miles from Andrews over the Snow Bird mountains to the head
of Snow Bird creek in 1907-08. The Cherokee Tanning and
Extract Company began business in 1903, and the Andrews
Lumber Company, under the management of Mr. H. R. Camp
bell, came in the spring of 1911, and have since completed
fifteen miles of logging railroad of standard gauge into heavily
timbered lands in Macon county on Chogah creek. This com
pany has also built a saw mill near Andrews with a capacity of
80,000 feet a day.
East Tennessee and Western North Carolina Railroad.
This road was completed from Johnson City, Tenn., via
EUzabethton to the Cranberry iron mines in 1882. It is a
narrow gauge road. In 1900 or thereabout it was extended
to Pinola or Saginaw, in what is now Avery county. This
extension was paid for in coffee for a long time, funds being
short, and was called the Arbuckle line. Its real name, how
ever, is
Linville River Railroad Company, and was built by
E. B. Camp, who owned a considerable body of timber
near Saginaw, the company operating the road and
saw mills being the Pinola Lumber and Trading Company.
Both companies went into the hands of a receiver, how
ever, and were bought in by Isaac T. Mann of Bramley,
W. Va. He got the W. M. Ritter Lumber Company in-

RAILROADS 483

terested in it and both properties finally went to that
company, including a very good inn, called the Pinola
Inn. A majority of its stock was transferred to the Cran
berry Iron and Coal Company in April, 1913 by the W. M.
Ritter Lumber Company.
Hendersonville and Brevard Railroad. This road was
built in 1894 by the late Tarn C. McNeeley. Thos. S. Boswell
was the engineer, and after it went into the hands of a receiver
in 1897 he operated it as superintendent, when it was bought
by J. F. Hays and associates, who afterwards organized
The Transylvania Railroad Company, and in 1900 ex
tended the road to Rosman, N. C, a point ten miles southwest of
Brevard. From there it was to have been constructed to Seneca,
S. C, which would have given a shorter route south from
Asheville by 35 miles; but the Southern Railway leased it
and that put an end to that scheme. In 1903 this road, as the
Transylvania railroad, was extended to Lake Toxaway, nine
miles beyond Rosman, and it was in this year that the Tox
away Inn was built, the lake having been dammed in the
same year, Thos. S. Boswell having been the engineer.
"The building of the Transylvania road and its extension,
resulted in the construction of the plant of the Toxaway
Tanning Company at Rosman, N. C, in about 1901, as I
recall. This has also resulted in the development of the
Gloucester Lumber Company at that place; this concern is
operating 20,000 acres on the western end of the Pisgah
Forest tract of the Vanderbilt estate and have their mills
located at Rosman, and carry on quite a large operation, with
probably 20 miles of railroad. Also, at Rosman is located
the plant of the Shaffer Lumber Company, and they have a
line of railroad running to the south from Rosman and have
quite a large operation with their mills located on their line
of road. Also, the building of the Transylvania resulted
in the location of the plant of the Brevard Tanning Company
at Pisgah Forest, two miles northeast of Brevard, which has
had a very successful operation." 16
The Elkin and Alleghany Railroad. The great draw
back to Alleghany county has been the lack of a railroad. The
legislature of 1907 authorized the State to furnish not less
than 50 convicts for the purpose of constructing a railroad
from Elkin to Sparta. The State took stock in this road

484 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
to the amount of the work done by the convicts, and the work
of grading was begun in the fall of 1907. In the early part
of the year 1911 the directors, John T. Miles, Capt. Roth,
H. G. Chatham, R. A. Doughton, A. H. Eller, C. C. Smoot,
Henry Fries and others, succeeded in interesting John A.
Mills in this enterprise, and he helped to procure the financial
aid. And now the railroad has every appearance of being
rapidly pushed to completion. The train is now running to
the foot of the mountain, nearly halfway to Sparta.
The Pigeon River Railroad. This was one of the first
enterprises planned by the Champion Fiber Company; but
it decided that a flume from Sunburst to Canton would be
cheaper and answer its purposes as well as a railroad. This
proved impracticable, on account of difficulties in securing
rights of way; and a railroad was commenced a few years
ago, of standard gauge, and it is now completed.
Georgia and North Carolina Railroad . The Georgia and
North Carolina railroad, from Marietta, Georgia, to Murphy
(ch. 167, Laws of 1870-71) was the first railroad to run into
Cherokee, and the late Mercer Fain was its first president
and was the most active in its construction. It reached
Murphy in 1888, and at first was a narrow gauge. It was
afterwards absorbed by the Marietta and North Georgia
railroad, which extended it from Blue Ridge, Georgia, to
Knoxville, leaving the Murphy end a mere branch. It was
originally intended that this road should go down the Hiwassee
and Tennessee rivers to Chattanooga, but others had already
obtained a charter for a road by that route which they refused
to surrender or assign except upon prohibitive terms. Hence
the route via Blue Ridge was adopted. The dog-in-the-
manger policy has thus prevented a road down the Hiwassee
river and has not produced any benefit to those who not only
would not build themselves but would not allow others to do so.
The Appalachian Railroad. There is also a short railroad
which leaves the Murphy branch about five miles east of Bry
son City and runs a short distance up Ocona Lufty creek.
Tallulah Falls and Franklin Railroad. This road was
completed from Cornelia, in Georgia, via Tallulah Falls and
Rabun Gap to Franklin, in 1908. It affords an outlet for a
large section of this region, and practically makes the whole
of Macon county tributary to Georgia. If the Southern

RAILROADS 485

Railway would complete the link between Franklin and Al
mond, and down the Little Tennessee river from Bushnel
to MaryviUe, Tenn., Franklin would have two other outlets,
one into our own State via Asheville, and into Tennessee
via Bushnel and Murphy. 1 7 This is more of the dog-in-the-
manger spirit.
The Damascus Lumber Company Railroad. In 1902 the
Hemlock Extract Company, D. K. Stouffer, manager, was built,
and several years afterwards the Damascus Lumber Company
built a narrow gauge railroad from Laurel Bloomery in Tennessee,
on the Laurel Railway Company's line, over the Cut Laurel gap.
It is operated exclusively as a logging road, but the grade,
generally, is good enough for a standard road, and there is
no reason why it should not be electrified and operated as it
is for freight and passengers. Its terminus at Hemlock is only
19 miles from Jefferson, the county seat of Ashe county, the
grade down Laurel creek to the North Fork of the New river
is good, and the road should be extended to Jefferson at least,
the principal barrier to mountain roads having been overcome
in the passage of the Cut Laurel gap.
The Tennessee and North Carolina Railroad was com
pleted to the mouth of Big creek on the Pigeon river about 1897,
and then extended two miles up to Mount Sterling post office,
where there has been a large saw mill plant since about 1900.
The design is to complete this line up the Pigeon to Canton
at least; and ultimately up the Pigeon to Sunburst, and thence
into Transylvania county. Should it get as far as the mouth
of Cataloochee creek it will have tapped the finest body of
virgin hardwood timber left in the mountains.
Asheville and Craggy Mountain Railway. On March 29,
1901, the city of Asheville authorized the Craggy Mountain
Railway Company to transfer its rights over Charlotte street
to the reorganized Asheville Street Railroad Company. Mr. R. S.
Howland operated this road to Overlook Park, on Sunset Moun
tain, several summers; but, by September, 1904, he had dem
onstrated to his own satisfaction that it could not be made
to pay. In that month it was torn up and the rails and ties
used to build a track from the Golf Club to Grace and thence
to the French Broad river at Craggy Station on the South
ern Railway, and the Weaver Power Company plant and
dam, then but recently erected, and to the factory of the

486 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
William Whittam Textile Company, which had been incor
porated February 1, 1902. He also built a trestle across the
French Broad river to the opposite bank, where the Southern
Railway established a station called Craggy.
Quarry. Meantime, however, not losing sight of the
objective point of the Craggy Railway Company, Mr. How-
land graded a roadbed and laid a track for a steam railroad
from the new Music Hall at Overlook Park, to Locust Gap,
a distance of about two miles, and opened a new quarry about
a quarter of a mile from the Music Hall, with a track ex
tending down to it. He also leased a part of the old James
M. Smith property, in rear of the present Langren Hotel,
where he established bins, and from which he sold all sorts
of stone, bringing it down the mountain by a steam dummy
engine, and hauling it through the streets of Asheville with
a large electric motor engine. The ties and rails on the track
to Locust Gap and to the new quarry were also taken up and
placed on the railroad leading to Grace and Craggy Station.
He also graded a traction road from near Locust Gap through
the lands of J. W. Shartle, C. A. Webb and others to Craven
Gap at the head of Beaver Dam creek, and thence to within
half a mile of Bull Gap at the head of Ox creek on the North
and Bull creek on the south. This road is to form a part of
the projected automobile road from Asheville via Mitchell's
Peak, and thence along the crest of the Blue Ridge to Blow
ing Rock. During this time Mr. Howland experimented
with steam traction engines; but they were not satisfactory
for the mountain roads.
Asheville Loop Line Railway. Mr. Howland operated the
railroad down to Craggy Station and to the Elk Mountain
Cotton Mill till April, 1906, when he sold that portion of the
railroad between New Bridge on the Burnsville road and
Craggy Station to the Southern Railway, but continued to run
cars from the Golf Club to New Bridge. The sale of the lower
portion of this railroad also carried with it the corporate rights,
etc., of the Asheville and Craggy Mountain Railroad Company,
and it then became necessary to organize the Asheville Loop
Line Railway to operate what was left of the Craggy Moun
tain Railway. This company, during the summer of 1906,
leased from the Southern Railway that portion of the railway
between New Bridge and Craggy Station and operated the en-

RAILROADS 487

tire line from the Golf Club to the river. The water im
pounded by the Weaver Power Company dam was called
Lake Tahkeeostee, and proved quite an attraction to summer
visitors who were in Asheville in great numbers during the
season. The railroad paid a slight profit.
Asheville Rapid Transit Railroad. During the fall of 1906
Messrs. Culver and Whittlesey, attorneys, and Mr. R. H. Ting-
ley, civil engineer, of New York City, got control of the Loop
Line railroad and determined to rebuild the track to the
Music Hall on Sunset mountain. To do this they formed
a new corporation called the Asheville Rapid Transit Com
pany, December 18, 1906, and in March of 1907 obtained a
franchise to build an electric railway from the corner of Water
street and Patton avenue across North Main street, and
thence along Merrimon avenue to a point near the Manor,
and thence over private property to the Golf Club. In order
to secure this concession from the city they deposited $1,000,
to be forfeited in case they did not commence to build the rail
way into town by the following September and complete it
within a few months thereafter.
Merrimon Avenue Line. These gentlemen secured
enough money to reconstruct the track up the mountain to
the Music Hall, which was in full operation by July 4, 1907,
on which day two thousand passengers were transported over
the new road. They continued to operate the road during
the summer and opened a restaurant and moving picture
show at Overlook Park. But the money they had expected
to borrow for the completion of the railway into the city via
Merrimon avenue could not be obtained, and they abandoned
the enterprise, turning the property back to Mr. R. S. How
land in the spring of 1908. As there were several local debts
due by the company the board of aldermen very consider
ately returned the $1,000 which had been deposited as a
forfeit, upon the abandonment and release by the company
of all rights on the streets, on condition that it should
be so applied. In June, 1908, Mr. R. S. Howland took
charge of the company again; but the company, not hav
ing paid the Asheville Electric Company for the power
which had been furnished for some time previous, the latter
company refused to supply electric current for the operation
of cars to Sunset mountain. An arrangement, however, was

488 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
soon afterwards made for power to operate the cars from the
Golf Club to New Bridge and this continued to be done till
August 27, when the Rapid Transit Company was placed in
the hands of a receiver. It was sold in December, 1908, to
R. S. Howland and associates for $25,000. By an arrange
ment between Messrs. LaBarbe, Moale & Chiles and R. S.
Howland the latter was to have the roadbed from the Golf
Club to New Bridge and certain other property, and the
former the track up the mountain and ten acres around Music
Hall. This led to some litigation between these parties, which,
however, was adjusted in 1911.
East Tennessee and North Carolina Railroad. During
1909 R. S. Howland built a trolley railroad from New Bridge
to Weaverville, thus giving a continuous line from Grace
to WeavervUle. By a subsequent agreement with the Ashe
ville Electric Company and the Asheville and East Tennessee
Railroad Company, as this Weaverville railway company is
called, under its charter, the latter has the right to operate
its cars over the track of the former from Grace to Pack Square.
This line passes over Merrimon avenue under a franchise
granted the Asheville Electric Company by the city soon after
its rights over that avenue had been abandoned by the Rapid
Transit Company. Both the Merrimon Avenue line in the
city and the railway from Grace to Weaversville have proven
great conveniences to the public.
Sunset Mountain Railway Company. Under this name
LaBarbe, Moale and Chiles operated the road up Sunset moun
tain to Music Hall during the summer of 1910, but soon sold it
to the E. W. Grove Park Company, who also bought about
300 acres on Sunset mountain from the Howlands. The
track has been removed and the roadbed converted into an
automobile road.
The Hiwassee Valley Railroad. In 1913 Clay and Cher
okee counties each voted $75,000 for the construction of a rail
road from Andrews via Marble down the Hiwassee river
to Hayesville, crossing Peach Tree and Hiwassee at the Clay
county line. It will be 35 miles long, standard gauge, etc.,
and will be operated by electricity from a power plant to be
erected on Hiwassee river. A question has arisen as to the
legality of the vote, and the company is now enjoined from
proceeding further in securing aid from either county. J.

RAILROADS 489

Q. Barker is president, and Samuel Cover, treasurer, and D. S.
Russell, secretary.
Better Than Raising Corn and Cotton. If Ashe, Clay,
Graham, and Watauga counties, four of the richest counties
in the mountains naturally, had railroads the enhanced
value of their property would give the State a larger and more
constant revenue from taxation than she now derives from the
raising of uncertain crops of cotton and corn on the State
farms by working her convicts in that malarious section of the
State. If these convicts were taken to the healthful and in
vigorating climate of the mountains and put to work grading
railroads, for their support in provisions alone, it would not
be long before every county west of the Blue Ridge would be
adequately served with an outlet for their crops, lumber and
minerals, while new health and pleasure resorts would be
opened up for summer tourists and health seekers.
Ashe is less known than any mountain county, but it is the
finest of them all, agriculturally and in minerals and water
power. Yet in the decade between 1900 and 1910 its popu
lation decreased from 19,581 to 19,074. Clay's population
fell from 4,532 in 1900 to 3,909. Yet the lands of Clay are
rich and productive and its jail is empty nine-tenths of the
time. Watauga, which in many respects is unsurpassed,
gained only a little over one hundred inhabitants in the same
period. These three fine counties are really retrograding for
want of railroads. If the increase in population and wealth of
Buncombe in 1880, before railroads reached its borders, com
pared with its population and wealth in 1913, is an index of
what railroads accomplish for communities, it will be evident
that the convicts could be more advantageously employed in
the mountains building wagon- and railroads than in raising
precarious crops of cotton and corn near Weldon.
The territory that in 1911 was erected into the county of
Avery is more mountainous and was formerly more inac
cessible than any other part of the mountains. Yet, having
a railroad, it gained nearly 2,000 in population in the last
ten years.
Other Railroads. In November, 1912, the county of
Watauga by a large majority voted $100,000 toward the con
struction of a railroad through Cook's Gap, Boone and down
the Watauga river, and the State has since provided thirty

490 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
convicts for work thereon. Work has already begun. The
Virginia - Carolina Railway obtained from the Legislature
of North Carolina in 1911, authority to construct a railroad
from its line in Grayson and Washington counties, Virginia,
into the counties of Ashe and Watauga, and in June, 1913,
let the entire line to the Callahan Construction Company, from
Konarok, Va., via Jefferson to Todd, or Elk Cross Roads;
all grading to be completed by July, 1914. That the link between
Canton and the mouth of Big creek, near Mount Sterling
post office, will be built shortly seems probable, as the line
has only to follow the Pigeon river to complete this link,
thus opening up a large boundary of timber and acid wood
and bark in the Cataloochee valley. There is also hope that
a railroad will be built from Saginaw (Pinola) to Mortimer
or Collettsville. A lumber road from Black Mountain station
to Mitchell's peak is being constructed rapidly.
The Blatherskite Railroad. This road has been build
ing (in the newspapers) for ten years or more, but never hauls
any freight or passengers. It is quiescent until there is talk
of a bona fide railroad, and then it develops a state of activity
and construction (still in the newspapers) wherever it is pro
posed to locate such new railway. NOTES.
•Frora Asheville's Centenary.
"Hill's, p. 259.
3Col. Wm. H. Thomas "w as more active in securing this amendme nt than anyone else.
*Harrison's Legal History of the Lines of the Southern Railway.
6Under the act incorporating the Western North Carolina R. R., commissioners were
appointed to take subscriptions to the capital stock in Salisbury, Lincolnton, Newton,
Statesville, Hendersonville, Lenoir, Boone, Taylorsville, Morganton, Marion, Rutherford-
ton, Shelby, Mocksville, and Asheville. The act provided for the construction of a rail
road to effect a communication between the North Carolina R. R. and the Valley of the
Mississippi, no route being specified.
«Shipp Fraud Com. Rep., pp. 250 and 307.
7Wm. A. Eliason Testimony, Shipp Fraud Com., p. 357.
8J. W. Wilson before Shipp Fraud Commission, p. 365.
°Harrison's ' ' Legal Histor y of the Lines of the Southern Railway. ' '
1 "Fairfax Harrison's ' ' Legal History of the Lines of the Southern Railway. ''
"Letter from Col. A. B. Andrews to J. P. A., July, 1912.
laFairfax Harrison's "Legal History of the Lines of the Southern Railway."
"Letter from Col. A. B. Andrews to J. P. A., July, 1912.
14These dates are from letter" from Col. A. B. Andrews to J. P. A., dated July 19 and 21,
1913. 15148 N. C Reports, p. 59.
"Letter of J. F. Hays to J. P. A., 1912.
17The Southern's line has been extended from Bushnel to Eagle creek, on the Little
Tennessee, sixteen miles; but it is used principally for hauling lumber. The scenery is
unsurpassed.

CHAPTER XXI
NOTABLE RESORTS AND IMPROVEMENTS
The Buck Hotel. This ancient hostelry was built by the
late James M. Smith and stood where the new Langren hotel
now stands. It was the first hotel west of the Blue Ridge,
but when it was built is not stated in Asheville's Centenary
(1898), the best authority we have on local ancient history.
He was the son of Col. Daniel Smith of New Jersey, who died
May 17, 1824, aged 67. James M. was born January 7, 1794,
near the present Asheville passenger depot. His mother
was Mary, a daughter of William Davidson, a cousin of Gen.
William Davidson, who was killed at Cowan's Ford. * It was
Gen. Davidson's brother Samuel who was killed by the Indians
at the head of Swannanoa in 1781-82. James M. Smith married
Polly Patton, a daughter of Col. John Patton, who was a mer
chant, hotel keeper, manufacturer, farmer, tanner, large
landowner, and very wealthy. The Buck hotel stood till
about 1907, when it was removed.
The Eagle Hotel. 2 This was built by the late James
Patton, father of the late James W. Patton, and grandfather
of the late Thomas W. Patton. He was born in Ireland
February 13, 1756, and came to America in 1783. He was a
weaver, but soon became a merchant. In 1791 he met Andrew
Erwin, who married his sister and became his partner in busi
ness. In 1807 they moved to the Swannanoa at what is
known as the Murphy place, where they remained till 1814,
when they moved to Asheville, Mr. Patton opening a store
and the Eagle Hotel — the central or wooden part. In 1831
he bought and improved the Warm Springs, and died at Ashe
ville September 9, 1846. 3 James W. Patton was born Febru
ary 13, 1803, and died in December, 1861. His life was full
of good deeds. His son, Thomas W. Patton, was foremost
in all good works, and in 1894 came to the rescue of Asheville
in a crisis of her affairs as mayor on an independent ticket.
The Hot Springs. "The Warm Springs on the French
Broad had been discovered in 1778 by Henry Reynolds and
Thomas Morgan, two men kept out in advance of the settle
ment to watch the movements of the Indians. They foUowed
(491)

492 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
some stolen horses to the point opposite, and leaving their
own horses on the north bank, waded across the river. On
the southern shore, in passing through a little branch, they
were surprised to find the water warm." "The next year,"
says Ramsey, "the Warm Springs were resorted to by inva
lids." Soon after his graduation at Washington College,
Tenn., young Z. B. Vance was a clerk at this hotel. 4
Grant No. 668, dated July 11, 1788, and signed at Fair
field, by Samuel Johnston, governor, conveyed to Gaser Dagg,
or Dagy, or Dager, 200 acres of land on the south side of the
French Broad river in Green county, including the Warm
Springs. 5 This land was then supposed to be in Green county,
in what is now Tennessee. William Neilson then acquired
an interest in the Springs for on April 27, 1829, Philip Hale
Neilson, who appears to have inherited an undivided one-
half interest to this property, conveyed it to Green K. Cessna, 6
who with Joseph L. Chunn and wife conveyed the entire
property to James W. and John E. Patton, by deed dated
December 6, 1831, for $20,662. 7 WiUiam Mathias appears
to have kept the Hot Springs before John E. Patton took
charge in 1832. He owned it till 1862, when J. H. Rum
bough bought it. He has owned it since.
Old Warm Springs. 8 The old Patton hotel at Warm
Springs faced the river and was on the left bank, a bridge
crossing the French Broad at that point. 9 The thirteen
large white pillars in front were very imposing looking,
and represented the original States. The Lover's Leap
rock was on the right bank of the river, and little less
than half a mile above the hotel. It was a sheer precipice
thirty or forty feet in height. What is now called Lover's
Leap, on the left bank and a mile below, is much higher, but
was not so precipitous in former days, the passage of the rail
road necessitating the blasting away of the lower portion of the
cliff. Old Man Peters is said to have fallen from it years before
the Civil War while coon-hunting, but recovered. The Hale
Neilson property was at Paint Rock, and what is still called
the Old Love road leaves the river about six miles below Hot
Springs and joins the present road up Paint creek twelve
miles east of Greenville, Tenn. It appears to be very little
traveled these days, and is probably the one Bishop Asbury
first used, crossing the French Broad at what is still put down

NOTABLE RESORTS AND IMPROVEMENTS 493
on the United States contour maps as Love's Ferry. Thad-
deus Weaver lived at the mouth of Paint creek, and the old
Allen House, at the mouth of Wolfe creek, is still standing.
The old Neilson hotel at Warm Springs was burned between
1821 and 1840. The present hotel faces the railroad, and
has its back to the river.
Flat Rock. From that storehouse of information, "Ashe
ville's Centenary" (1898), we learn that in 1828 the turnpike
from Saluda gap via Asheville was completed to Warm
Springs, and that "brought a stream of travel through west
ern North Carolina." Among these were visitors from Char
leston, S. C, some of whom were attracted by the charming
scenery and surroundings of Flat Rock. Charles B. Bar
ing bought land and built there, his deed bearing date
September. 13, 1830. 10 Judge Mitchell King also bought
land, his deed being dated October 28, 1829. 1 1 There was
a small hotel there kept by Williams Brittain, in which they
probably stayed till they could build homes of their own.
What is now the Major Barker place was the Mollineaux
home. Following is from the history of Henderson (town and
county) by Mrs. Mattie S. Chandler, written expressly for
this work:
The home of Judge Mitchell King (who afterward donated
the land upon which Hendersonville stands) was one of the
very first built at Flat Rock, and numbers of his descendants
continue to come there, maintaining handsome homes of
their own. This place later passed into the ownership of
Col. C. G. Memminger, and is now owned by the Smythes.
Count de Choiseul, one of the most famous of these old
residents, modeled his dwelling there after the magnificent
old French country homes. He lived there many years, until
after the death of one of his sons in the War between the States.
He then returned to France that his remaining son might in
herit his titles as well as his immense property there.
The old Urqhardt home, one time residence of Cora Urq-
hardt, now Mrs. James Potter Brown, is practically unchanged.
It belongs to the Misses Norton of Louisville, Ky., who spend
the summers there.
Charles Baring came to Flat Rock from Charleston in 1820,
and built in 1828 what is now the summer home of George J.
Baldwin (prominent business man of Savannah). There are a

494 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
number of the descendants of the Barings who have lived
for many years in this county, and they tell many interesting
stories of this family. Charles Baring, member of the Banking
firm of Baring Bros., London, came first to Charleston to
negotiate a match between Lord Ashburton and a beautiful
English widow then in Charleston, a Mrs. Heyward, sister
of Lady Barclay. It proved to be a case of John Alden and
Priscilla, he "asked her himself." They were married and
early in their married life came to Flat Rock.
Mrs. Baring was brilliant, clever, well known in these early
days in Charleston as a dramatic writer, and amateur actress.
She entertained extensively and brilliantly at Flat Rock, her
birthday balls having been quite famous. On this occasion
she is said to have invariably worn a remarkable costume
of purple velvet, with headpiece of purple plumes, and many
diamonds. Judging from a very handsome portrait of her,
now in the possession of a Hendersonville lady of her kin,
she must have been very beautiful. Miss Sue Farmer of
Hendersonville, daughter of Henry Tudor Farmer, and grand-
niece of this lady, has in her possession many of Mrs. Bar
ing's belongings, among which are a quaint old jewel casket
with glass handles, with many compartments and little
secret drawers and pockets. In the Baldwin home, in what
was Mrs. Baring's bedroom, there still remains the curious
old wall paper with its designs of the Crusaders.
She it was who built the far-famed St. John-in-the- Wil
derness, the Episcopal church at Flat Rock, said to be the
oldest of its denomination in the State. Both she and her
husband are buried under the floor of this church, and the
tablets erected to their memory are in the church.
At the age of seventy, Charles Baring was married a second
time to a young lady, Miss Constance Dent, daughter of Com
modore Dent of Charleston. He then built another home,
which was known for many years as the Rhett place, and on
which spot now stands the beautiful new Highland Lake
Club, with its numerous cottages and buildings, and which
on summer evenings presents such a brilliant scene, where
hundreds of wealthy visitors come to spend the summer.
The well-known old Farmer Hotel was built by Charles
Baring, and kept by his nephew and ward, Henry Farmer,
for many years. It was perhaps better known as the Flat

NOTABLE RESORTS AND IMPROVEMENTS 495
Rock Inn and gained quite a reputation for the old Southern
hospitality dispensed there. It was built in 1850, and stands
practically unchanged; through having fallen into disuse in
late years, it has grown rather dilapidated. After Mr. Far
mer's death it was sold to a company of the Charlestonian
residents and used as a country club.
Henry Tudor Farmer, father of the one named above, was
born in England, and though he never lived in Flat Rock
for any time he is said to have written some of his later verse
there. In "The Nineteenth Century," by Wm. Gilmore
Simms, state historian of Southern History, under date of 1869,
a very detailed account of his works is given, extracts as fol
lows: "He lived in New York for some time before coming
to Charleston. There he made the acquaintance of all the
wits about town. He was intimate with Francis, the most
famous of reminiscents. He has jested at the Cafe with Hal-
leck and Drake of the firm of the 'Croakers.' He knew
Bryant and Sands Hillhouse and Percival at their beginnings,
and himself published a volume of poems both in New York and
London. His work is highly complimented for its skill
and dainty imagery, as well as the easy-flowing rhythm."
As Seen Through Northern Eyes. In the "Carolina
Mountains," we read (p. 112): "Long before the train had
surmounted the barrier of Blue Ridge, the beauty and salu
brity of the high mountains had called up from the eastern
lowlands people of wealth and refinement to make here and
there their summer homes. The first and most important
of these patrician settlements was at Flat Rock, the people
coming from Charleston, the center of civilization in the far
South, and choosing Flat Rock because of its accessibility,
and because the level nature of the country offered opportunity
for the development of beautiful estates and the making of
pleasure roads through the primeval forests that in those
days had not been disturbed. Into this great, sweet wilder
ness, now quite safe from Indians, these children of fortune
brought their servants and their laborers, and selecting the
finest sites whence were extensive views of the not too distant
mountains, surrounded by the charming growths of the region,
in a land emblazoned and carpeted with fiowers, built their
homes of refuge from the burning heat and equally burning
mosquitoes of the coastland. . . . These people drove

496 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
in their own carriages, accompanied by a retinue of servants
and provision wagons. . . . This procession up the moun
tains had fewer trappings on the horses and less gayly attired
escort than did those of the olden time; but we may be sure
that the carriages of the gentlefolk of the eighteenth century
were pleasanter conveyances than the mule-litters of the Middle
Ages, and we may also be sure that no lovelier faces looked
out from the gorgeous retinue on its way across the hills of
the past than could be seen in the carriages where sat the
ladies of the New World, with their patrician beauty and
their gracious manners. And, although the escort of the
New World travelers did not number one thousand gayly
dressed cavaliers, it consisted of a retinue of those ebony chil
dren of the sun, who loved the pleasant journey, and loved
their gentle lords and ladies — for all this happened in those
halcyon days 'before the War' when . . . the real
'quality' cherished their slaves and were greatly loved by
them. "
Distinguished Pioneers. This writer continues: "The
Lodge" was built by one of the English Barings, Charles, of bank
ing fame, on which place was a 'tumble -down stile,' like
the one near Stratford-on-Avon." "Coming somewhat later,
as friends of Mr. Baring," were Mr. Molyneux, British con
sul at Savannah, and Count de Choiseuil, French consul a
the same place. "Perhaps the most cherished name of this
mountain settlement was that of the Rev. John G. Drayton,
for many years rector of St. John-in-the- Wilderness, and to
whom the dignified and noble estate of Ravenswood at Flat
Rock owes its origin, as well as the wonderful Magnolia Gar
dens on the Ashley river, near Charleston — gardens where
one wanders away into a dreamland of flowers unlike any
other dreamland in the world. . . . And always when
talking to anyone of the old residents of Flat Rock, comes
forth the name of Dr. Mitchell C. King, who, for more than
half a century, was the greatly beloved physician of the com
munity, and who, while a student at the University of Got
tingen, formed so warm a friendship with a fellow student,
known as Otto von Bismarck, that, for many years after, a
regular correspondence was carried on 'between them' these
letters being carefully preserved by the descendants of the
doctor. " She also mentions the Memmingers, the Rutledges

NOTABLE RESORTS AND IMPROVEMENTS 497
the Lowndeses, the Elliotts, the Pinckneys, the Middletons
and many others.
The Man Who Brought Us to the Springs. 1 2 Colonel
V. Ripley, father of Mrs. Lila Ripley Barnwell, was one of the
early settlers in Hendersonville. He was of English descent,
his immediate branch of the family having come to New Eng
land in 1636. Colonel Ripley was a native of Virginia, from
which state he came to North Carolina when quite a young
man. He was a man of wide experience and fine business
ability. In 1835 the business of mail contracts, extending
from Florida when the state was a territory to the upper
part of South Carolina, was almost entirely in his hands.
This business was continued until June, 1855.
His Wife an Authoress. 1 2 Mr. Ripley's first wife was
the daughter of James M. Smith of Buncombe, who
was the first white child to be born west of the Blue
Ridge in Buncombe county, he having been born on
Swannanoa. J 3 During the War between the States, Col.
Ripley was married to Mrs. Mary A. Ewart of Colum
bia, S. C, a lady of great culture, refinement and strong in
tellectuality. In her early years, Mrs. Ripley was an author of
considerable distinction, and was a regular contributor to
many of the leading magazines and periodicals of her day.
Perhaps her most valuable production was "Ellen Campbell,
of Kings Mountain," a prize story which was contested for
by many of the well known writers of the South. The de
scription of the battle of Kings Mountain in this story is one
of the most graphic ever given of that famous engagement.
It increased enormously the circulation of the paper in which
it was published. She was the author of "Edith Egerton,"
"Avalona" and several other novelettes, as also of many
beautiful poems. 1 4 Mrs. Lila Ripley Barnwell, her daughter,
has been inseparably identified with the later development
of Hendersonville; she is well known in western North Caro
lina as a writer, and a broadly public-spirited woman, as
well as a friend to all who need a friend — and this is saying
much. Cashiers Valley. 1 6 About 1818 a man named Millsaps set
tled in the upper end of Cashiers Valley. Soon after that
date James McKinney came to the valley and bought the
lands then owned by Millsaps. A short time after, John
Zachary and sons, Jefferson, Mordecai, Alfred, Jonathan, and
W. N. C— 32

498 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Alexander, came to the valley and settled in the lower end
thereof. All the Zacharys seem to have been artizans.
Alexander was a brick mason and also a brickmaker. He
evidently burned the first bricks in the south end of Jackson
county. Alfred was a hatter and made both fur and wool
hats. It was customary in those days to take coon -skins
or lambs -wool to his "shop" to be made up on shares.
A good home-made wool or fur hat cost seventy-five cents.
Mordecai Zachary was a carpenter and built a fine house for
those days. The Zacharys built the first saw-mill in the
valley. Cashiers Valley is a mountain plateau of the Blue Ridge
3,400 feet in altitude, from four to five miles long, and a mUe
and a half wide. Attracted by its climate, freedom from
dampness, its utter isolation from the populated haunts of
man, the rugged character of its scenery and deer and bear
infested wildwoods, years since, wealthy planters of South
Carolina drifted in there with each recurring summer. Now
a few homes of these people are scattered along the highland
roads. One residence, the pleasant summer home of Gen.
Wade Hampton, governor of South Carolina in 1876, the
earliest settler from the Palmetto State, is situated, as it
appears from the road, in the gap between Chimney Top
and Brown mountain, through which, twenty miles away,
can be seen a range of purple mountains. A grove of pines
surrounds the house. Governor Hampton formerly spent
the summers here, engaged, among other pastimes, in fishing
for trout along the head streams of the Chatooga, which
have been stocked with this fish by the Hampton family,
and in hunting deer. Chief Justice A. J. Willard of Colum
bia, S. C, afterwards had a residence nearby.
Whiteside Cove. * 5 The first settler in Whiteside Cove
was Barak Norton. He came from South Carolina and
settled in the Cove about 1820. Barak Norton and
others took up State grant No. 307 on the 24th day of
December, 1838. Barak Norton in his own name took
up State grant No. 322 on the 27th of December of the
same year. His oldest daughter, Mira Norton, took up State
grant No. 320 on same date of same year. He lived to the
advanced age of 99 or 100 and died at James Wright's, about
three miles north of Highlands, near Short Off, in 1868 or

NOTABLE RESORTS AND IMPROVEMENTS 499
1870. His wife, Mary Norton, nee Nicholson, also lived to an
advanced age of nearly 100 years. Barak Norton and his wife
Mary were strong adherents to the Universalist belief and
died strong in the faith.
Horse Cove. 1 5 Soon after the settlement of Whiteside
Cove and Cashiers Valley, Horse Cove was settled by George
and William Barnes, Mark Burrill and Evan Talley. The
Barnes families seem to have been the first to settle there.
Gold was discovered about 1840.
Dula Springs. These springs were opened to the public
about 1900, and are the property of the Chambers family.
There are several houses which afford accommodations for
from thirty to fifty people on most reasonable terms. They
are about two miles north of Weaverville, which is reached
by an electric line from Asheville.
Highlands, Macon County. 1 6 Early in 1875 S. T. Kelsey
and C. C. Hutchinson, of Kansas, bought 800 acres of J. W.
Dobson, to which land Kelsey moved his family in February,
1875. T. Baxter White of Marblehead, Mass., followed in
April. In May Hutchinson and family came, and White
became postmaster, and for two years carried the mail in
his coat pocket to Horse Cove and back. About 1877 Dr.
George Kibbee came from Oregon, and, having been success
ful in treating yellow fever in Knoxville by using rubber beds
and cold water baths, he went to New Orleans in 1879 when
yellow fever was epidemic there. He contracted the disease
there and died. Joseph Halleck of Minnesota, a brother
of Gen. W. H. Halleck of the Civil War, kept the first hotel.
In 1888-89 the Davis house was opened and was popular till
1909, when Miss Davis, who had kept it admirably, died.
John Norton built a store in 1879, and Charles O. Smith of
Indiana bought the Polly Norton farm and lived there till
his death. Captain S. P. Ravenel of Charleston, S. C, came
in 1879 and built a beautiful residence on the crest of the Blue
Ridge, commanding a fine view, hauling all the lumber, ex
cept that for the frame, from Walhalla, S. C. By the aid
of his family a Presbyterian church was built and dedicated
by the Rev. Dr. Miller of Charlotte, N. C, in September,
1885. It need not be said that this little community has
had excellent schools from the first. A debating society every
Friday night used to keep things lively and brought the com-

500 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
munity together. Mr. Kelsey was a practical disciple of
good roads, going out and building them himself. Highlands
is a fine town.
Linville City. This beautiful Uttle town was built and
is owned largely by the Linville Improvement Company, which
in 1890 was composed principally of S. T. Kelsey, S. P. Rav-
enel and Donald MacRae. They built the Yonahlossee turn
pike from this town to Blowing Rock, about twenty miles
distant, at a cost of about $18,000, less than $1,000 per mile.
It is the most beautiful and best constructed mountain road
in the State. But, at the time it was completed and the
Linville River Railroad had reached Pinola and Montezuma,
less than two miles distant, there were such serious dissen
sions among the directors of the company that a lawsuit
resulted. Until it had been settled it was impossible to give
clear title to any of the lots which had been largely advertised
for sale. When the trouble was finally adjusted the golden
moment had passed. 1 6 But Blowing Rock had benefited by
the construction of the turnpike. There is a nice little inn
and a fine lake filled with trout at Linville City. It is within
the shadow of the Grandfather mountain and about 4,000
feet above sea level.
Blowing Rock. In 1875 WiUiam Morris lived at Blow
ing Rock and took a few summer boarders. The fame of his
culinary art, or that of his wife, spread and brought his place
to the attention of the late Senator M. W. Ransom. He
bought and built a summer home there. Others followed.
The Green Park Hotel, the Watauga Hotel and other fine
hostelries were built, and when the Yonahlossee turnpike was
completed Blowing Rock was quite popular. There is no
finer scenery anywhere, the water is pure and hotels and
private boarding houses numerous. The following have
fine homes at this charming place: Col. W. W. String-
fellow; Miss Esther Ransom, of Weldon; Mr. E. H. Hughes,
of Charleston, S. C; Prof. W. J. Martin, of Davidson Col
lege; Rev. C. G. Vardell, of Red Springs; Mrs. Moses H.
Cone, Mr. A. W. Washburn, of Charlotte; Mr. Elliott
Dangerfield, of New York; Rev. J. S. Vance, of Nashville,
Tenn.; Mr. D. A. Tompkins, of Charlotte; Mr. E. H. Wil
liamson, of Fayetteville; Judge G. W. Gage, of Chester, S.
C; Mrs. W. G. Randall, of Greensboro, N. C; Rev. D. E.

NOTABLE RESORTS AND IMPROVEMENTS 501
Snapp, of Baltimore, Md. ; Mr. J. Lamb Perry, of Charleston,
S. C; Mrs. W. G. Randall, and many others.
Roaring Gap Hotel. Within the last few years Roaring
Gap, on the crest of the Blue Ridge and at the head of Roaring
river, has become a popular summer resort, with a large and
well-arranged hotel, commanding fine views. There are also
a number of nice cottages. It is nearly 3,500 feet above sea
level. Thompson's Bromine Arsenic Springs. Nine miles from
Jefferson is a mineral spring, hotel and outbuildings, situated
3,000 feet above sea level, that is almost a specific for eczema,
all forms of skin troubles and all kidney and bladder affec
tions. It can be reached from Troutdale, Va., (leaving Nor
folk & Western train at Marion, Va., for Troutdale) or from
Wilkesboro, N. C, on Southern Railway, from which it is
distant forty miles. It opens May 15. H. M. Wiley is the
proprietor and the postoffice is Crumpler, Ashe county, N. C.
Moses H. Cone. He was born at Jonesborough, Tenn.,
June 27, 1857, and died at Baltimore, Md., December 8, 1908.
In September, 1897, he began the acquisition of the 3,500
acres of land which make up what is now Flat Top Manor. 1 1
He died childless and intestate; but his widow, Mrs. Bertha
Lindau Cone, and his brothers, and sisters, Ceasar Cone and
wife, Jeannette Cone, L. N. Cone, Julius W. Cone, Bernard
M. Cone and wife of Guilford county; Frederick W. Cone,
Moses D. Long and his wife, Carrie Cone Long, of Buncombe;
Sydney M. Cone and wife, and C. and E. Cone of Baltimore,
Md., in May, 1911, in recognition of "the deep love and last
ing affection" for the people of Watauga of Moses H. Cone,
conveyed to the Cone Memorial Hospital, a corporation of
Guilford county, the whole of the Flat Top Manor and three
smaller tracts which had been acquired by Mrs. Cone since
her husband's death — the entire propety, aggregating 3,517
acres — to be called the "Moses H. Cone Memorial Park,"
to be used as "a park and pleasure ground for the public in
perpetuity," in order "to make an everlasting memorial"
to the said Moses H. Cone. A life estate in this property
is, however, reserved to Mrs. Cone, and a plat of ground 400
feet square in which Moses H. Cone is buried. 1 8 There are
scores of poor people in Watauga county who will never for
get the goodness of Moses H. Cone.

502 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
The Lindsay Patterson Farms. This gentleman, with
his Revolutionary War ancestry, and his estimable wife, not
content with trying to preserve the history of this section,
has purchased two fine farms in Watauga, one on Meat Camp
creek, five miles north of Boone, containing 350 acres, and the
other, eight miles further north, containing 2,000 acres, and
lying in Watauga and Ashe counties. This latter is called the
Bald Mountain farm, because the mountain on which it lies
is largely bare of forests. Grain, hay, potatoes, and vege
tables are produced in abundance on the Meat Camp farm;
while horses, mules, cattle, ponies, sheep, hogs, turkeys,
geese, ducks and chickens, flourish and grow fat on the other.
Asheville Sulphur Springs. On the last day of February,
1827, Robert Henry and his slave Sam discovered this spring,
five miles west of Asheville, and about the year 1830 his son-
in-law, Col. Reuben Deaver, built a wooden hotel on the hill
above and began taking summer boarders. Such was the
patronage that an addition had to be made to the hotel every
year. As many as five hundred are said to have been there
at one time, and the neighborhood was ransacked for beds,
bedding, chairs, and provisions. Most of the visitors came
from South Carolina, among whom were the Pinckneys,
Elmores, Butlers, Pickenses, Prestons, Alstons, Kerrisons, and
others. Mr. John Keitt was the first person buried on Sul
phur Springs hill, August 27, 1836. x 9 The fact that the Pinck
neys were almost constant visitors accounts for the prevalence
of the given name Pink in the neighborhood of Asheville. The
Alstons reserved the corner rooms on the second floor from
May till frost every season. Besides the hotel, an L-shaped
building, there were cabins on the grounds. There were
bowling alleys, billiard tables, shuffle-boards and other games.
A large ball-room and a string band, composed of free negroes
from Charleston and Columbia, provided the music for
dancing. One of these negroes was named Randall, who had
been presented with a purse of $5,000 by the white people
of South Carolina for having given information about a con
templated negro insurrection at Charleston;20 and another
of these musicians was named Lapitude, who owned a plan
tation near Charleston and forty slaves. He was a man of
some education, and the manner of a Chesterfield. 2 1 From
its opening till 1860 there were more summer visitors at

NOTABLE RESORTS AND IMPROVEMENTS 503
Deaver's Springs than in Asheville. Col. James M. Ray
gives us this picture of Asheville sixty years ago: "Well,
what of Asheville in these long past years? It was about
like Leicester or Marshall — a very small village on the 'turn
pike,' midway between the two Greenvilles. The two 'ho
tels', Eagle and Buck, even many years later, not doing near
the business of many of the country inns or stock stands on the
Warm Springs road. For anyone to stop at either of these
two hotels longer than for dinner or for the night was not
thought of; though a few summer visitors would sometimes
make a short stop in passing through to Deaver's Springs or
to Warm Springs, Wade Hampton and others with fast teams
driving from Asheville to Warm Springs for dinner. " 2 2 The
old hotel was burned in December, 1862, was rebuilt by E.
G. Carrier — of brick this time — in 1887, and known, first
as Carrier's Springs and then as The Belmont. It was again
burned in September, 1891, while under the management of
Dr. Carl Von Ruck. From 1889 till 1894 an electric railway
ran from Asheville to the spring, but it was abandoned.
Cloudland Hotel. In 1878 Gen. J. H. Wilder of Knox
ville built a hotel on the top of the Roan mountain and
opened it for guests, having previously constructed a wagon
road from Roan Mountain Station on what is now the East
Tennessee and Western North Carolina Railroad. Later he
built a much larger hotel, which met a public want admir
ably, as it afforded sufferers from hay-fever immediate relief.
It is built across the State line between Tennessee and North
Carolina, and guests frequently sleep with one part of their
bodies in one state and the rest in the other. It was very
popular till a few years ago, when it was closed, but will
soon be reopened.
Eagle's Nest, near Waynesville, has divided this patron
age with the Cloudland since 1900. In the year 1900 Mr. S. C.
Satterthwait of Waynesville built a hotel on top of one of the
highest of the Balsams, calling the range the Junaluskas. It is
five miles from Waynesville and is reached by a good wagon road.
It is 5,050 feet above sea-level, and is one of the hay-fever
resorts in this section, Cloudland hotel on the Roan, 6,000
feet, being the only other. Tents supplement the rooming
accommodations when desired. Accommodations for about 100
guests. The magnificent Plott Balsam mountain is in full view.

504 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Balsam Inn. Soon after the completion of the railroad to
Balsam gap, seven miles west of Waynesville, Christie Broth
ers of Athens, Ga., opened a railroad eating house at that
point, and furnished venison, wild turkey and mountain trout
and the best cuisine in the State. They had only rough and
small houses, and did not seek any patronage except from
railroad passengers. But about 1905 a large and commodi
ous hotel was erected there, with accommodations for many
guests. Baths, acetylene lights, music and other attractions
keep the hotel filled during the summer season.
Our First Landscape Architect. Our first settlers
sought house sites near springs, caring little for views or being
viewed. Knolls and commanding eminences were too far
from water, as a rule, and required a climb up-hill to reach.
In 1821 the late Dr. J. F. E. Hardy came to Asheville from
Newberry District, S. C, where he had been born in 1802.
His first residence was on the southwest corner of Eagle and
South Main streets, at one time the finest residence in Ashe
ville, where he resided for fifteen years after his marriage to
Miss Jane Patton in 1824. In 1840 he married Miss Erwin
of Morganton, and soon afterwards moved to Swannanoa
Hill at the corner of Biltmore road or South Main street and
the Swannanoa river. This is on a hill, and the roads and
approaches, lined with white pines, cedars and other trees and
shrubbery, still make this one of the prettiest places in this
section. But when he first improved it, it was far in advance
of anything theretofore seen in these parts. It commands a
fine view. Here he lived till 1860, when he bought Belle-
view on the eastern side of South Main street, another com
manding hill with a splendid view. The winding roadway,
bordered by pines and cedars, which led from the road to the
house, is still intact except at the lower end, where the former
road, now street, has been dug down far below its former
level, leaving the entrance to the approach road high in the
air. Mrs. Bucannon now owns this property. Soon after
the Civil War Dr. Hardy built the brick house on the west
side of the Hendersonville road beyond Biltmore, which com
manded another fine view. Flere he died at the age of eighty.
He was one of the most eminent physicians of his day. He
was of commanding presence, with the manner of a lord. At
his home was dispensed much of the hospitality for which

NOTABLE RESORTS AND IMPROVEMENTS 505
this section was noted, distinguished strangers finding there
entertainment and intelligence at least equal to that of larger
places. His son, Dr. J. Geddings Hardy, succeeded to his
practice, and no call ever went unanswered by him.
Biltmore. Soon after the opening of the Battery Park
Hotel Mr. George W. Vanderbilt of New York visited Ashe
ville and was at once struck with its possibilities. He tried
at first to secure Fernihurst, owned by Mrs. J. K. Connally,
but failing, turned his attention to the land south of the
Swannanoa and east of the French Broad. Charles McNamee,
Esq., a lawyer of New York, and a kinsman, first took
options and deeds in his own name ; but it soon became
noised about that he was buying for Mr. Vanderbilt and
prices began to soar. The first deed recorded is from J. G.
Martin, trustee and commissioner, to the Williams property,
and is dated September, 1889, followed by many others till
the 16th of June, 1890, when Henry Allen White conveyed
134 acres directly to Mr. Vanderbilt, after which there was
no attempt to disguise the fact that this gentleman, "having
all the world before him where to choose," had chosen Buncombe
as the site of his future home. The influence of this choice on the
outside world was immense. These purchases of small tracts
have resulted in the accumulation of about 12,500 acres in
what is called Biltmore House tract, and about 100,000 acres
in Buncombe, Transylvania and Henderson counties in what is
known as Pisgah Forest. The services of Frederick Law Olm
stead, the distinguished landscape architect of New York, were
secured, and he planned the roads, bridges, forests, lakes, water
falls, etc., on the Biltmore House tract. Those roads are un
surpassed by even the drives in Central Park, New York,
being kept in perfect condition at all times. Biltmore house
was begun in 1891 and completed in 1896. This house was
modeled after Chateau Blois, France; and the Rampe Douce,
or gentle slope, immediately in front of the house but beyond
the lawn known as the Esplanade, is a close imitation of a
like construction at Vaux le Vicomte, France. The garden to
the right of the front of the house and on a lower level than
the esplanade is called the "walled garden," and the stone
images or sphinxes on the four gate posts at the entrances
were brought from Egypt, and are the busts of women on
the bodies of lions couchant. They are said to be of great

506 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
age. Fine tapestries, paintings, statuary and other objects of
art, with a large library of rare books, have been gathered
into the house. Fountains, conservatories, dairies, vegetable
gardens, model farms, and other attractions add to the beauty
and charm of the place, probably the finest private residence
in America. Birds and wild animals are protected on this
estate, and on the lakes wild ducks are seen in winter when
they cannot be found on the rivers nearby. Pisgah Forest
was bought for its forests, and Hon. Gifford Pinchot was
placed in charge as forester.
Pisgah Forest. Mr. Vanderbilt was the first to see the
paramount necessity for forest conservation. Pisgah Forest
prospered under the expert guidance of Mr. Pinchot till
he was succeeded by Mr. Schenck, who for years con
ducted a school of forestry. Biltmore village, at the end
of South Main street of Asheville, is planned after English
villages, with the ivied church, the hedges and the "simple
village green." But it is not probable that any English vil
lage is as spick and span as Biltmore is every day, where
streets, lawns, hedges, sidewalks, drains and shrubbery are
constantly on dress parade — an object lesson in municipal
government without politics.
The National Park Commission and Mr. Vanderbilt could
not agree on a price for Pisgah Forest in June, 1913, but
after Mr. Vanderbilt's death, March 5, 1914, his widow sold
the entire tract.
"The Beautiful Sapphire Country." The completion
of the railroad to Lake Toxaway in 1900 led to the following
developments, and were due largely to the energy and enter
prise of Mr. J. F. Hays : The Toxaway property as a whole
was made up of property purchased from the receivers of
the Sapphire Valley Company, and other smaller properties.
The Fairfield Inn, on Lake Fairfield, was built, together with the
dam for the lake, in 1896. The Franklin Hotel at Brevard, which
was a part of this same operation, was built in the year of 1900.
Later the Franklin was sold to a Mr. Robinson and associ
ates, of Charlotte, N. C, and they are at present owners of
that property. The Toxaway property was sold in 1911 under
foreclosure, and is now held as the property of Mr. E. H.
Jennings of Pittsburgh, Pa. Toxaway Inn, as well as Fairfield
Inn, and The Franklin, had their greatest success in the years
1904-1907.

NOTABLE RESORTS AND IMPROVEMENTS 507
Waynesville White Sulphur Spring. This spring was
discovered by "Uncle" Jerry, a slave of the late James R.
Love, in 1845 or 1846. Col. Love soon after built a large
residence there, which he occupied till his death in 1864. It
was burned in August, 1885. Col. W. W. Stringfield, who
had married his daughter Maria, built a brick hotel on the
site of this residence after it had been burned, about 1886. 2 3
It is now owned by Ben Johnston Sloan. It is less than one
mile from Waynesville.
Epp's Spring. This was the property of the late Epp
Everett of Bryson City, and is about five miles from that
town on the right bank of the Tuckaseegee river, at the
mouth of Cane Brake branch. It is a chalybeate spring,
and there are one or two cabins there.
Old Valley Town Tavern. This famous hostelry was
kept by the late Mrs. Margaret Walker for a number of
years after the Civil War, and was popular with lawyers and
their clients. Although there was no court house there, the
lawyers would hurry through Graham, Cherokee and Clay
county courts in order to get to spend as much time at this
hotel as possible.
The Langren Hotel. This fine structure of reinforced
concrete was finished and thrown open July 4, 1912. It is
near the Pack Square, Asheville, and stands on the much
litigated Smith property on the corner of North Main and
College streets, where formerly stood the old Buck hotel. It
is a commercial and tourist hotel, and popular.
Kenilworth Inn. This handsome hotel was opened about
1890. It stood on the eminence above the junction of South
Main street and the Swannanoa river road, and from it Craggy
and the Blacks were visible. It was popular until its de
struction by fire at 3 a. m., April 14th, 1909, J. M. Gazzam
of Philadelphia, chief owner, escaping at the risk of his life
and the expense of great injuries from which he afterwards re
covered. It was insured for $70,000.
Oakland Heights. This hotel was built by the late Alex
ander Garrett and his son, Robert U. Garrett, in 1889. It
afterwards became a girls' school, and then a hotel, having
passed into the hands of the Presbyterian Board of Home
Missions. It then became Victoria Inn, and during 1911
was purchased by the Catholic Church and is now St. Gene
vieve's College, a most excellent school for girls.

508 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
The Grand Central Hotel. This was built by the late
S. H. Chedester. It was afterwards operated as the Hotel
Berkeley, but in 1911 was converted into a department store
by Solomon Lipinsky.
Margo Terrace. This home-like hotel was built by Miss
Gano in 1889. In 1904 it became the property of Pat Branch,
who in 1912 doubled its capacity and greatly improved its
outward appearance.
Vance's Monument. This handsome granite column was
erected on the Public Square at Asheville in 1897, George W.
Pack, after whom the Square was soon named, having con
tributed $2,000 — and the public, $1,300 — for its erection to
the memory of Zebulon Baird Vance, Buncombe's most dis
tinguished and honored citizen and great "War Governor."
George W. Pack Memorial Library. This was estab
lished in 1879, and had many homes before the late George
W. Pack donated the fine building on Pack Square in 1899.
Battery Park Hotel. Having a railroad did not by
any means complete Asheville's happiness; for it had no hotel
accommodations at all commensurate with the tide of travel
which immediately set in. At this juncture came the late
Col. Frank Coxe, who built the present Battery Park Hotel.
It was opened July 12, 1886, with Col. C. H. Southwick
manager. It has remained the principal hotel of Asheville
ever since. It has been twice enlarged and frequently im
proved. For several years it was managed by the late E. P.
McKissick. It is a credit to this community, and has become
an indispensable asset.
The Telegraph Line. The first telegraph line reached
Asheville July 28, 1877, with Samuel C. Weldon as operator.
Through the efforts of the late Capt. C. M. McLoud, the line
was soon afterwards extended to Hendersonville. Then
Mr. Weldon became the owner and operator thereof till the
railroad company took it off his hands.
Other Enterprises. The Asheville Cemetery Company was
incorporated August 4, 1885 ; the Telephone Company, October
1, 1885; the Western North Carolina Fair, January 30, 1884; the
'Gas and Light Company, May 25, 1886. In 1887 Alex, and R.
U. Garrett built the Oakland Heights Hotel. The Swannanoa
Hotel was completed in 1879 and opened for business in the
summer of 1880.

NOTABLE RESORTS AND IMPROVEMENTS 509
Asheville Street Railway. This most necessary com
mon carrier was built by Dr. S. Westray Battle, James G.
Martin, W. T. Penniman, and E. D. Davidson, the latter of
New York, and began to run in January, 1889. It failed
in 1893 and was sold out in 1894, and bid in by White Brothers
of New York. It finally went into the Asheville Electric
Company's properties, and is now part of the Asheville Power
and Light Company.
"The Drummer's Home." This hotel at Murphy, pre
sided over by Mrs. Dickey for years, has made a name for
itself that will endure. It was for years the most popular
house west of Asheville.
West Asheville. In 1885 Mr. Edwin G. Carrier and fam
ily moved to Asheville from Michigan. He soon afterwards
bought several hundred acres of land west of the French Broad
river, including the Sulphur Springs and the J. P. Gaston
tracts of land. In 1887 he built a large brick hotel on the site
of the wooden structure that was burned during the Civil
War, and soon thereafter, 1891, constructed an electric rail
way from Asheville to Sulphur Springs, crossing the French
Broad river near the mouth of the Swannanoa on a fine steel
bridge. This railway first ran only to the passenger station;
but, on October 13, 1891, it was granted a franchise by the
city to extend its line through Depot street, Bartlett street
and French Broad avenue to the corner of West College and
North Main streets. It stopped, however, at what is now the
corner of Haywood street and Battery Park Place, then called
Government street. It was called the West Asheville and
Sulphur Springs Railway Company.
A race track was established just south of Strawberry Hill
and between the Sulphur Springs railway and French Broad
river. A grand-stand was erected and a high fence built
around the race track. There were several exciting races,
all of which were well attended.
Sunset Mountain. During the summer of 1889, Capt.
R. P. Foster and the late Walter B. Gwyn, Esq., completed a
railway from Charlotte street to a point on Sunset mountain,
known as the "Old Quarry," near which is a fine spring, and
from which can be had one of the finest views in this section.
This road was operated by a small steam engine, called a
"dummy," and was chartered as the "Asheville & Craggy

510 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Mountain Railway Company," its objective being the top of
Craggy mountain. On November 28, 1890, the city granted
this company a charter to build its track and operate its cars
along Charlotte street northward to the city limits in that
direction. This line was quite popular.
Richard S. Howland. In 1904 Lewis Maddux, as receiver
of the Asheville Street Railway Company, strung a trolley
wire from Chestnut street along Charlotte street to what used
to be known as the "Golf Club" and operated cars to that
point by an arrangement with Mr. Gwyn. In 1901 Richard
S. Howland, Esq., came from Providence, R. L, and bought
property near the foot of Sunset mountain and erected a fine
residence there. He acquired control of the Craggy Mountain
Railway and completed it to the top of the mountain, where
he erected a music and dance hall. He also obtained the right
to operate his cars to the public square. The terminus of the
railroad was called Overlook Park.
Coggins Springs. These springs are near Bull creek, and
are chalybeate and sulphur water. There are no hotels or
boarding places, except farm houses, near. They are about
eight miles east of Asheville.
The Grove Park Hotel. This unique and costly series of
grottoes, built of rough mountain rock, was completed in 1913
(July), in the E. W. Grove park, near Asheville. It is said to
have cost one million dollars.
Asheville's Gravity Line. During Mayor Miller's ad
ministration Charles T. Rawls was chairman of the finance
committee, and was most active and energetic. He visited
Atlanta and studied the system of municipal government of
that city and succeeded in getting its best features adopted
by Asheville, especially the manner of keeping the books and
accounts. At his instance, and largely through his influence,
the city voted $200,000 of four per cent bonds for the adoption
of a gravity water works system, by which the water of the
NorthFork of the Swannanoa river is conveyed through a sixteen-
inch pipe to the city. The contract for constructing this line
was awarded to M. H. Kelly in August, 1903. The city ac
quired about 9,500 acres of land above the intake on which
there is no human habitation. Certain patriots did what
they could to force the city to pay them an exorbitant price
for land claimed or controlled by them, and litigation followed.

NOTABLE RESORTS AND IMPROVEMENTS 51 1
The city finally got this land at a reasonable price. The re
turns from this water system, after all expenses have been
paid, are sufficient to pay the interest on the city's entire
bonded debt of about one million dollars. Mr. Rawls was
elected mayor, but his health temporarily broke down before his
time expired. He got the legislature to authorize the aldermen
to tax the cost of building sewers on the abutting property
instead of paying for them out of the general fund. 2 4 The
result has been the most complete and satisfactory sewer
system in the South.
Col. James G. Martin. He was a son of Gen. James G.
Martin, and from 1885 to 1893, when he removed to New York
City, was the leader in most of the public enterprises in
Asheville and Western North Carolina. He died in 1912, aged
about 59 years. He was a most useful citizen.
George Willis Pack, of Cleveland, Ohio, was a most
generous friend to Asheville, having donated 11 acres of land
for Aston Park, about four acres for a court house, a kinder
garten school, a library building, and most of the money for
the Vance Monument. notes.
Asheville's Centenary.
2Ibid."Ibid.4J. H. Wheeler's "Reminiscenses."
BBuncombe County Deed Book A, p. 491.
"Ibid, Deed Book No. 16, p. 74.
'Ibid, p. 413.
statements of Captain B. F. Patton, March 25, 1913. He spent his boyhood at Old
Warm Springs. Mrs. M. A. Chambers of Columbia, S. C, now in her ninetieth year, remem
bers visiting this hotel, Hickory Nut Falls, and Flat Rock, when a girl, about 1S33.
9Charles Dudley Warner ("On Horsehack, " p. 135), in 1884, called this hotel "a pala
tial hovel." r "Buncombe County Deed Book No. 16, p. 375.
"Ibid, p. 193.
12From Mrs. Mattie Smathers Chandler's history of Henderson county.
13As Ashe county was settled in 1755, according to Wheeler's History (p. 27)_, many
white children were born in that county years before James M. Smith was born in Bun
combe county.
14Mrs. Ripley was the mother, by a former marriage, of Hon. Hamilton Glover
Ewart, member of Congress from 1887 to 1889, and appointed TJ. S. District Judge in 1898.
15Information furnished by T. Baxter White, J. Pierson and others.
16Information furnished by S. P. Ravenel, Esq., of Asheville.
"Watauga County Deed Book R, p. 131.
"Ibid, No. 11, p. 517.
19Robert Henry's diary, now in possession of his daughter-in-law, Mrs. C. C. Henry,
of Acton, N. C.
20"South Carolina Women in the Confederacy," p. 249.
2 statements of Mrs. Eugenia E. Hopson, daughter of Col. Reuben Deaver, and of
Mrs. Martha A. Arthur, daughter of Robert Henry.
22Col. James M. Ray in The Lyceum, p. 19, December, 1890.
"Letter of Col. W. W. Stringfield to J. P. A., January 27, 1912.
21In Justice v. Asheville, decided at the December Term (1912) of the Supreme Court,
this act was sustained.

CHAPTER XXII
FLORA AND FAUNA
Primeval Conditions. Exactly what the forests were Uke
in the days of the earliest settlers and what were the kinds and
habits of its wild denizens can be known only by the accounts
that have come down from our ancestors. Whether the coun
try was more open than now or whether the wild animals
were tamer than we now find them, are matters that cannot be
absolutely determined by any mathematical process. Some
claim that the Indians kept the undergrowth thinned out by
annually setting the fallen leaves afire in order that they might
see the game the better, while others suppose that there were
thickets and saplings beneath the giant forest trees as there
are at this time. Following are some thoughts upon this
question: "It is also doubtless true that 150 or 200 years ago the forests were
not nearly so well grown up as at present, and that would in a measure
account for the presence of such animals as the moose or even elk. Old
hunters have told me that when they could first recollect there was
scarcely any laurel, with only now and then a small bunch, and that
the woods were open and no underbrush at all; that they could see
through the forest ever so far, and that the growth of the hemlock was
nothing like it is at present. Now and then a giant monarch of the for
est and all around for a considerable distance would be small hemlocks.
At the writer's own home at Banners Elk, I had occasion a year or so
ago to make a practical demonstration of that fact. There was evi
dence of one of those giant hemlocks that had fallen down perhaps a
hundred years ago. It was all decayed but the knots, of which I piled
up more than 125. The tree itself must have been 120 feet high when
standing. All around, the hemlocks grew thick from two to two and one-
half feet in diameter. That the forests have become more thicketty in the
last thirty years is the observation of every thoughtful man."1
A Mysterious Floral Sisterhood. In the "Carolina
Mountains" (ch. VI) we are told that in the Himalayas and the
mountains of the Far East are found the flame-colored azalea,
the silver-bell tree, the fringe bush, the wisteria, and ginseng,
which are found nowhere else except in our own Appalachians.
What bond, the author asks, tore these tender flowers asunder,
separating them by continents and vast seas? We are also told
that the Rhododendron Vaseyii, which, unlike the other rho-
(512)

FLORA AND FAUNA 513
dodendrons, sheds its leaves in the fall, was supposed to have
become extinct (p. 59) but that it is still found on the north
side of the Grandfather mountain. We learn also that Shortia
was named for Prof. Short of Kentucky, and was rediscovered
on the Horse Shoe Pasture river a few miles south of Lake
Toxaway, "literally coloring acres of the earth with its charm
ing flowers" (p. 275).
Botany and Botanists. The abundance, variety and
beauty of the wild flowers, bushes and shrubs attracted the
attention of botanists at an early date. William Bertram
of Philadelphia was in the Cherokee country in 1776. 2 Andrew
Michaux was sent to this country by the French government
to collect seeds, shrubs and trees for the royal gardens in 1785,
and, on the 30th of August, 1794, reached the summit of the
Grandfather, "the highest in all North America," he declared;
"and with my companion and guide sang the hymn of the
Marseillaise. " 3 The following year Michaux explored the
mountains of Burke and Yancey, carrying away in the fall
2,500 specimens of trees, shrubs and plants. In 1794 he
visited the Linville, Black, Yellow, Roan, Grandfather and
Table mountains. The late Col. Davenport of Yadkin Valley
was his guide. His "Flora Boreali-Americana " is yet a classic.
Mr. Fraser, a Scotchman, made botanical collections in these
mountains in 1787 and 1789; and, under the patronage of the
Russian government, he explored them again in 1799, accom
panied by his eldest son, when he found the laurel or Rhodo
dendron Catawbiense. They came again in 1807, and in
1811 the son returned, spending several years, and annually
sending large consignments of plants and seed to Great Brit
ain. F. A. Michaux, son of Andre, was here in 1802, and
published his "Forest Trees of North America" in 1857.
Thomas Nuttall, an Englishman, examined a portion of our
mountains, and wrote "Genera of North American Plants."
He died in 1859. Prof. Asa Gray of the University of Cam
bridge and John Carey of New York were in the mountains
of Ashe and Yancey in 1841; and in 1843 Prof. Gray, with
Mr. Sullivan of Ohio, came into our mountains from Virginia.
S. B. Buckley came by the Hiwassee in 1842, and in the same
year Mr. Rugel, a German collector, was here. In 1844 Mr.
Dow, a young botanist, traversed the entire length of our
mountain range. In 1840 Prof. Gray found the Lilium Can-
W. N. C— 33

514 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
adense, but_ Dr. Sereno Watson discovered that it possessed
traits peculiar to itself alone, "set it aside as a distinct species
and honored it with its discoverer's name." In 1839 Dr.
Gray observed in Paris an unnamed specimen brought there
by the elder Michaux from "les hautes montagnes de Caro-
linie" ; but on his return failed to find it till in 1877 G. M. Hymes,
then a boy, accidentally discovered it on the bank of the Ca
tawba near Marion. Dr. Gray had already named it Shortia
in honor of Dr. C. W. Short. In September, 1886, Professor
Sargent discovered that the Hogback mountain above Lake
Toxaway is the original habitat of the Shortia, just 98 years
after Michaux had first found it and probably near the same
spot. Pioneers in Forestry. Before the railroad got to Ashe
ville, and afterwards, shrewd men went through these moun
tains buying standing timber and paying for it with a song,
if with that. Thousands of the finest black walnut trees
were branded as the property of the purchasers and left to
grow on the land of the seller. Later on the finest poplars
and cherries were also purchased and left to grow, while the
railroads were ever drawing nearer. The walnut trees were
first cut and their trunks hauled for miles to the head of the
railroad. Later still the poplars and cherries followed. Then
followed a demand for the stumps of the walnuts, and these
also found a ready market, and brought more than the trees
which had been cut from them, for by this time we had grown
in knowledge and knew somewhat of the value of our timber.
We had not known it before the Civil War, having used black
walnut and cherry and poplar rails for the building of fences.
Scottish Land and Timber Company. In the eighties
this company, managed by Alexander A. Arthur from Scot
land, bought up ten square miles of the finest timber on Big
Pigeon, between Cataloochee and Big creeks, and tried to
float the logs down the Pigeon; but it was soon discovered
that it did not pay at that time. Later on the Bushnells of
Ohio, one of whom was afterward governor of Ohio, came
and set up extensive mills at the junction of Little Ten
nessee and Tuckaseegee rivers, where they established booms;
but the first flood swept booms and logs away. The place
was called Bushnell and still retains the name. The Ritters,
Whitings and others have followed.

FLORA AND FAUNA 515

Mills to the Timber. During this time many small
concerns were taking small steam engines to the timber and
cutting it near where it stood. Even this did not pay in many
cases, and it became a saying that if you had a grudge against
a man, just give him a steam saw-mill and his ruin would
soon follow. The business has since thriven in some cases
and proven disastrous in others.
Wealth in Forests. It is in her forests, however, espe
cially of late years, that this section has found its greatest
wealth. There are at least a dozen well recognized species of
oak, while most of the hardwoods and the coniferous and de
ciduous growths common to this latitude can be found in
great abundance. Already saw mills, pulp mills, acid mills,
and other mills for the utilization of these forests have been
established and thousands of men are employed where only
a few found employment before. The railroads are taxed to
supply cars in which to haul the products of the forest to
market. With the adoption of intelligent forestry methods
promised by the United States Government, which is now
acquiring many of these forested areas, the future seems to
hold out the hope that these forests will continue to be a
source of revenue for all time to come.
Forest Fires. From the report of J. S. Holmes (State
Forester) of 1911, it appears that the forest fires in the vari
ous mountain counties in 1910 have wrought considerable
damage; table four of that report giving the facts in detail.
From the same paper can be gathered the steps that have
been taken to prevent these fires, including the State and
National legislation on the subject. In 1909 the legislature
of this State passed a law to declare any wooded land above
2,000 feet elevation a "State Forest," and the appointment
of wardens as the owner of the land may request; but advan
tage has not been generally taken of its provisions, because it
requires the owner to pay one-half a cent an acre additional
tax for the benefit of the school fund, while he has also to
pay the wardens for their services.
From Advance Sheet of Forest Service of the United
States, 1912. Estimated amount of standing timber in
thousand feet board measure, trees 10 inches and over in
diameter breast high, in western North Carolina, by coun
ties :

516 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA

Per Average
Total Area Cent of Stand Per Total
Area Forested Forest Acre (Thousand
Counties (Acres) (Acres) Land (Board Feet) Feet)
Cherokee  288,640 228,473 76 1,635 373,690
Clay  118,400 99,650 84 3,804 379,027
Graham  193,280 173,763 90 6,255 1,086,937
Swain  358,400 336,850 94 4,747 1,598,927
Macon  339,840 288,234 85 2,980 858,795
Jackson  316,160 284,105 90 2,765 785,449
Haywood  346,240 287,592 83 4,960 1,426,498
Transylvania  237,440 208,573 88 1,712 357,064
Henderson  231,680 140,299 61 1,862 261,182
Buncombe  399,360 198,807 50 1,673 332,539
Madison  275 , 840 196 , 763 71 2 , 908 572 , 222
Yancey  193,280 159,660 83 4,625 738,504
Mitchell  231,680 178,479 77, 3,596 641,750
Watauga  211,200 147,901 70 4,534 670,555
Ashe  255,360 145,741 57 3,594 523,848
Alleghany  142,720 53,071 77 2,030 107,728
Total  4,139,520 3,127,961 76 3,425 10,714,715
Eastern Forest, Reserves. In 1900 Dr. C. P. Ambler,
George S. Powell, Hon. Locke Craig and Hon. Josephus
Daniels inaugurated the Appalachian National Park move
ment at Asheville, which culminated in March, 1910, in the
passage by Congress of the Weeks act, under which $10,000,-
000 were appropriated for the purchase of wild lands in the
mountains at the heads of the navigable rivers of the eastern
States. But as only $2,000,000 could be expended in any
year, and as the act could not be put into force between March
and June 30, 1910, the expiration of the fiscal year, only
$8,000,000 were available. The operation of this act expires
in 1915. At the expiration of 1913 the following purchases
had been made :
Southern Appalachians :
State Tracts Acres Price Value
Georgia  148 77,235 $6.75 $507,311.70
North Carolina  146 108,518 7.88 855,605.25
South Carolina  68 23,286 5.50 128,157.25
Tennessee  19 164,605 4.88 798,624.00
Virginia  77 208,134 3.31 689,245.66
West Virginia  25 63,786 2.67 170,296.20
Total  483 645,564 $3,149,240.06
White Mountains :
New Hampshire  22 100,437 $7.01 704,112.50
Grand total  505 746,001 $5.17 $3,853,352.56

FLORA AND FAUNA 517
As indicative of the rapid advance in the price of timber-
land in the mountains, the Murchison boundary in Yancey
county may be cited. It was sold at Sheriff's sale about
1879 to the Murchisons for $2,200, who held it intact as a
timber and game preserve until December, 1909, when they
sold it for $225,000 to Carr and Keys, These held it about
a year and sold it to  Brown for $300,000. The
late R. B. Johnston, who owned 5,000 acres on Cat Tail creek,
adjoining the Murchison tract, vainly offered it to Big Tom
Wilson for $750 in 1879 as a goat farm. In January, 1911, John
ston's heirs sold the timber on this tract to the Carolina Spruce
Company for $110,000. In October, 1912, G.W. Vanderbilt sold
to Lewis Carr of Virginia, the timber, wood and bark, stand
ing and down, on 69,326 acres of mountain land in Transyl
vania, Henderson and Buncombe counties for $12 per acre,
payable in installments in twenty years. He had bought this
land twenty years before for less than $3 per acre. (Deed
Book, Buncombe, No. 161, p. 518.)
Elk and Buffalo. The native fauna, alas! has largely dis
appeared. But when Daniel Boone and his contemporaries
first crossed the Blue Ridge they found black bear and red
deer in the greatest numbers; while, in the neighborhood of
Banner Elk have, even in recent years, been discovered the
bones of elk and caribou. Elk mountain and BuU Gap in
Buncombe county take their names from the elk. There is
reason to believe that buffalo used to pasture along the lonely
streams of this elevated plateau, while smaller game, such as
the opossum, the raccoon, mink and otter, have not entirely
disappeared to this day. The beaver, however, has long been
extinct, leaving its name to innumerable streams. (See ante
pp. 42, 65, 251, 252 and 253.)
Dogs for Food? In that storehouse of information con
cerning this section of country, the Nineteenth Annual Re
port of the Bureau of American Ethnology, 4 page 26, it ap
pears that when DeSoto arrived at Guaxule, which the author,
James Moody, identifies as "the great Nacoochee mound, in
White county, Ga., a few miles northwest of the present
Clarksville, " and near Franklin, N. C, the Cherokees "gave
the Spaniards 300 dogs for food, although, according to the
Elvas narrative, the Indians themselves did not eat them."
In a foot note it is stated that "Elvas, Biedma, and Ranjel

518 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
all make special reference to the dogs given them at this
place; they seem to have been of the same small breed ('per-
rillos') which Ranj el says the Indians used for food. " Men
tion is also made of the "delicious service berry of the south
ern mountains. " 6
First Buffaloes. From the same work, page 26, it is
learned that when DeSoto was resting at Chiha, near the
present Columbus, Ga., he met with "a chief who confirmed
what the Spaniards had heard before concerning mines in the
province of Chisca," saying that there was " a melting of cop
per and of another metal of about the same color, but
softer, and therefore not so much used," and that DeSoto
sent two soldiers on foot with the Indian guides to find
Chisca,6 which was "northward from Chiaha, somewhere in
upper Georgia or the adjacent part of Alabama or Tennes
see." When these soldiers returned to DeSoto they reported
that they had been taken "through a country so poor in corn,
so rough, and over so high mountains that it would be impos
sible for the army to follow"; but they had "brought back
with them a dressed buffalo skin which the Indians there had
given them, the first ever obtained by white men, and de
scribed in the quaint old chronicle as "an ox hide as thin
as a calf's skin, and the hair like a soft wool between the
coarse and fine wool of sheep. " This must have been in the
mountains of North Carolina.
Fruit Culture. As to the adaptability of the soil and
climate of the mountains to fruit culture, the State Agricul
tural Department has this to say in a pamphlet entitled
"Orchard Lands," and dated at Raleigh, N. C, October 7,
1910 :
"The Appalachian mountain region attains in North Carolina its
maximum development, for here it reaches the greatest height east of
the Rockies. This gives it a cool climate, like that of the northern states
and Canada. In addition to its altitude, it has, on account of its south
ern latitude, a longer growing season and a more abundant and brighter
sunlight. This makes it ideal for the commercial production of hardy
fruits. The apples grown in this region are of very high color and of
fine quality. The rainfall is heavy in summer, giving a rapid growth
and making fruit of large size. The fall weather is dry, cool, and bright,
thus giving the most favorable conditions for fruit harvesting and mar
keting. The soils of the mountains are rich and fertile and produce a
good growth both of tree and fruit. Healthy old trees are growing in
many parts which have been bearing heavily for upwards of a century.

FLORA AND FAUNA 519
In the deep, rich, alluvial soil of mountain coves the famous Albemarle
Pippin finds the soil that brings it to its greatest perfection. On the
mountainsides, in many places, are found the thermal zones that are
so rarely visited by frost that total failures of fruit are practically un
known. It is destined to be the most noted apple-growing section in the
whole country. Apples from the mountain country have twice carried
off the first prize at the Madison Square Garden in New York City in
competition with the whole United States. Peaches attain a color and
quality there which they do not reach in the lower country. They grow
as handsome as the California peaches, and as to quality the California
product is hardly to be named in comparison with them."
Live Stock. Of the raising of live stock, the same excel
lent authority, in a pamphlet entitled "North Carolina : A
Land of Opportunity In Fruit Growing, Farming and Truck
ing, " has this to say, in a chapter called "Climates" (p. 36):
"It is a region of fertile valleys and elevated plateaus, with a climate
very similar to that of the northern middle states. The summers are
cool and pleasant and the whole region is an attractive one to the sum
mer visitor and is becoming a great summer resort. The winters are cold, but
shorter than those of the middle states north. In most mountain regions
the mountainsides are rocky and sterile, but in the mountains of North
Carolina, as a rule, the mountain slopes are covered with fertile soil and in
some parts of the mountain country the treeless 'balds' have their slopes
to their lofty tops covered with fertile soil and rich grasses, on which
great herds of cattle are grazed in summer. The valleys in the southern
section of the mountain country are less elevated and the climate is mild
and pleasant, while the snowfall is very light. The clear streams of
water that flow everywhere and the natural growth of fine grasses mark
this region for cattle and the dairy, while on the uplands fruit of all
kinds flourishes as it seldom does elsewhere."
Grains Rich in Proteids. Agriculturally the soil of this
section is hospitable to the growth of all the fruits, vegetables
and cereals of the temperate zone. 7 Some of the lands are
too high and cold for maize or Indian corn, but rye and buck
wheat can be grown there in great abundance. The soil is
generally too thin to produce a large yield of corn or wheat
to the acre, but the corn grown, being small and hard and
maturing quickly, is richer in the proteids and all nutritive
qualities than the larger and softer kernels which grow in such
abundance from the black soil of the prairie states in the
corn belt proper. It more than makes up in quality what
it lacks in abundance. Corn grown on Tuskeegee creek in
Swain county, in 1893, by John M. Sawyer, took the prize
at the Columbian Exposition for being richer in the proteids

520 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
than any other corn grown in the United States. Col. W. L.
Bryan of Boone was awarded a diploma and bronze medal by
the same exposition for buckwheat grown in Watauga county
in 1893.
The Home of the Apple. But, while most fruits and
melons thrive in this soil, it is the apple which does best and
brings most credit and notoriety to this section. Apples
from this country took the prize at the Philadelphia Centen
nial in 1876 over all apples grown in America, while prizes
have been awarded to this fruit at the Chicago and St. Louis
fairs. 8 It is a crop that rarely fails. There is a black soil
in different localities of this section peculiarly adapted to the
growth of apples, but they do well in any soil and require
very little attention. The United States Geological Survey
publishes maps showing the different variety of soils in the
mountain region of North Carolina.
Grasses and Stock. In the counties of Ashe, Alleghany,
and Watauga grasses flourish so abundantly that little corn
is planted, as it pays better to raise stock on the rich grass
and hay and to buy such corn as is needed for work stock
and human consumption than to plough up the grass and
raise this cereal. In all the mountain region in these counties
the land is not so steep but that it can be broken up and planted
in grass, the result being that, with the exception of a fringe
of trees upon the crest of the ridges, almost the entire country
is given up to grass. Very little timber is left hereabout. On
all the mountains, after the timber has been removed and
the surface ground exposed to sunlight, grasses grow abun
dantly. Stock "Ranging." In other counties, where grass does
not thrive so well, owing to the shade of the thick timber,
and where the land is too steep to plough, cattle, mules,
horses and hogs are "ranged" in the mountains from May
until November and are then driven in, fat and sleek.
Bear, Deer and Turkey. While, as has been said, most
of the big game has been killed, there are still a few black
bear left in the more remote and inaccessible mountains, in
the pursuit of which much sport can be had. There are
also a few red deer scattered here and there, and a few tame
herds maintained in private parks. Gray squirrels, pheas
ants, quail, wild turkey, the red and gray fox and an occasional
wolf can still be found in the more remote sections.

FLORA AND FAUNA 521
Mountain and Rainbow Trout. The introduction of
the California or Rainbow trout into the clear and cold moun
tain creeks and rivers, and black bass in the larger streams,
has proven a great success; and, while the mountain or speckled
trout proper are being consumed by their rainbow brothers,
the latter still afford great sport for the anglers who visit
these mountains every spring and summer in increasing
numbers. But for the reprehensible and unlawful practice
of dynamiting the bass streams by irresponsible people, this
gamest of all game fish would soon multiply so rapidly as to afford
sport for all who might care to take them. There are no
finer streams anywhere for bass than the Cheowah, Ten
nessee, Tuckaseegee, lower Nantahala, upper French Broad,
Hiwassee, NoUechucky or Toe, Watauga and New rivers.
Where and When it was too Cold to Raise Corn.
From Col. W. L. Bryan's "Primitive History of the Moun
tain Region," we learn that when Ashe and Watauga were
first settled "the seasons would not mature corn and the
pioneer settlers had to get their corn from the valley of the
Yadkin river, carrying the same on their backs, for few had
horses at that time. . . . There being no roads save the
trails which had been made by the Indians and the great
pioneer, Boone, those who had horses would place two and
a half bushels of corn in a strong homespun and woven tow
sack, throw it on their horse's back and fasten it by the use
of a surcingle, turn the horse in the path and walk behind."
Pea Vine. From the same authority we learn that "in
the earlier days of our country there was a growth called
pea-vine, which was a very rich food for stock, and had an
almost limitless range throughout the entire almost bound
less forest."
Some Famous Hunters of the Olden Day. "Near
the headwaters of the Watauga is the Linville gap separating
the Grandfather from Hanging Rock mountain and the waters
of the Main fork of Watauga from the head prong of the Lin
ville river. Near this gap used to live James Aldrich, a noted
hunter, when bear, deer, elk, wolves and panther abounded.
Harrison Aldrich, James' son, also lived there, and was a great
hunter, having killed over one hundred bear." An encounter
between Aldrich and a bear in a cave, while George Dugger,
"another pioneer hunter and one of the very best of men,"

522 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
waited on the outside, is related by Col. Bryan; and another
in which Aldrich shot a sleeping bear in a cave, striking him
in the burr of the ear and killing "him so dead he never waked
up." Of like courage and skill was Big Tom Wilson of Yan
cey, and Welborn Waters of Whitetop. Near the branch
where James Winkler now lives, near Boone, and when Jordan
CounciU, Jr., was living there, a dog treed an unknown animal.
Thinking it was a coon Jordan CounciU went up the tree and fol
lowed the unknown "varmint" out on a limb. When it
dragged its tail in Mr. Councill's face he knew it was a pan
ther. He hastened down, got a torch, "shined" the eyes
of the great cat and shot it.
Fire-Hunting. According to Col. Bryan, this sport was
conducted by hunters during a certain season when the stones
in creeks and rivers are covered with a peculiar moss of which
deer and elk are very fond. The hunter would take a canoe
or other small boat, place a torch in the front end and himself
remain in the stern. The boat was poled or paddled by
another. The boat would be silently floated up to deer stand
ing belly-deep in the water and plunging their muzzles into
the river to get the moss upon the rocks. Blinded by the
light the deer would stand still till their eyes reflecting the
light of the torch afforded a perfect target. Then the leaden
missile would speed upon its fatal way. Cows also like this
moss, and sometimes hunters would kill their own stock.
Ravens. The ravens which fed Elijah the Tishbite by the
brook Cherith (1 Kings, xvii, 6) did not thereby secure ven
eration for their descendants of our mountains after their set
tlement by the whites; for, when spring opened, they came
down from the cliffs and crags and preyed upon the young
pigs and lambs of the settlers, first plucking out their eyes and
then clipping off their ears and finally killing and eating them.
At the report of a gun in the remote mountains seventy-five
years ago all the ravens within hearing flocked to the hunter,
in the hope of preying upon whatever he might have killed or
wounded. Fresh raw meat was, when hidden in tree-tops,
kept from their beaks only by the wad of tow which had been
used to clean the foul barrels of the guns.
Wolves. On the 6th of June, 1794, Gideon Lewis entered
68 acres "under the Three Tops mountain," at what is now
Creston. (Deed Book A, Ashe coutny, p. 38.) Gideon and

FLORA AND FAUNA 523
his family were great hunters ; but his sons, Gideon and
Nathan, were for years the great wolf hunters of Ashe county.
They would follow the gaunt female to her den, and while one
waited outside, the other brother crawled in and secured the
pups, from six to ten in each litter, but allowing the mother to
escape. The young were then skalped, the skalp of a young
wolf being paid for the same as that of the mature animal.
For each skalp the county paid $2.50. When asked why he
never killed grown wolves, Gideon Lewis answered: "Would
you expect a man to kill his milch-cow ?" Wolves had greatly
increased during the Civil War, and soon after its close the
late Thomas Sutherland of Ashe county, with other cattle
herders, hired the late Welborn Waters to kill all the wolves
from the White Top to the Roan mountain. He would con
ceal himself in the wildest parts of the mountains and howl in
imitation of a wolf. When the wolves which had heard him
came, he shot them from his place of concealment. This soon
exterminated the breed along the Tennessee line.
Ginseng. David Miller, Col. Bryan's grandfather, dug
"a root of ginseng that weighed one pound, avoirdupois, and
would frequently dig two bushels and a half of this root in a
day. The price then was only ten cents per pound."
This is usually called "sang" by our people. Its value,
use and how to prepare it for the market of China were first
taught us by Andre Michaux on his first visit to the Blue
Ridge in August, 1794. 9 It is called Gentian by some. x °
Colonel Byrd's Rhapsody. In his "Writings" Col. Byrd
of Westover (pp. 211-212) thus sings the praises of this indig
enous herb : When near the Dan river on his famous sur
vey of the dividing line between Virginia and North Caro
lina, he chewed a root of ginseng, which "kept up my spirits,
and made me trip away as nimbly in my half Jack-Boots as
younger men could in their shoes. This plant is now in high
esteem in China where it sells for its Weight in Silver. (The
capitals are all Col Byrd's). Indeed it does not grow there,
but in the Mountains of Tartary, to which place the Emperor
of China Sends 10,000 Men every Year on purpose to gather
it. . Indeed, it is a vegetable of so many vertues
(sic), that Providence has planted it very thin in every Coun
try that has the hapiness to Produce it. . This noble
Plant grows likewise at the Cape of Good Hope, where it is

524 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
called Kanna, and is in wonderful Esteem among the Hot
tentots. It grows also on the northern Continent of America,
near the Mountains, but as sparingly as Truth and Public
Spirit. ... Its vertues are, that it gives an uncommon
warmth to the Blood, and frisks the spirits, beyond any other
Cordial. It cheers the heart even of a Man that has a bad
Wife, and makes him look down with great Composure on
the crosses of the world. It promotes insensible Perspiration,
dissolves all Phlegmatic and Viscous Humors that are apt to
obstruct the Narrow Channels of the Nerves. It helps the
Memory and would quicken even Helvetian [Shades of Julius
Caesar!] dullness. 'Tis friendly to the Lungs, much more than
Scolding itself. It comforts the Stomach, and Strengthens the
Bowels, preventing all Colicks and Fluxes. In one word, it
will make a man live a great while, and very well while he
does live. And what is more, it will make Old Age amiable,
by rendering it lively, cheerful and good-humored."
The Associated Press dispatches on August 6, 1913, said
that 150,000 pounds of ginseng was shipped to China from the
United States for the past year, valued at $1,500,000 — or ten
dollars a pound, whereas it used to be sold for 12J/£ cents in
the mountains. Also that 155,000 pounds of the same herb had
been exported the year before, valued at $7 per pound. It was
also stated that before the wild forest supply diminished
largely it brought only 40 cents per pound; and that its culti
vation began in 1898.
Fine for Dogs But Finer for Sheep If — In a country
so ideally situated for sheep-raising as these mountains, it is
difficult to explain why that industry has not been more suc
cessful than it has been, unless the destructiveness of dogs is
the reason. These faithful canine friends were indispensable
to the pioneer, but their possession is now no longer necessary,
and the farmers are getting rid of all that are not required for
dairy purposes. This eliminates many hounds and worthless
mongrels and substitutes for them the intelligent Scotch col
lie and shepherd. AU efforts to tax useless dogs out of exist
ence have thus far failed to eliminate the superfluity of our
canine friends.
Wild Pigeons. These birds used to come in flocks which
literally darkened the heavens. At night their roosts were
visited by men and boys bearing torches who wantonly killed

FLORA AND FAUNA 525
thousands of these light-blinded birds. They come no longer.
Pigeon river in Haywood county and Pigeon Roost creek in
Mitchell have been named for these migrants.
Thermal Belts. In the pamphlet of the N. C. Agricul
tural Department, called "North Carolina : A Land of Op
portunity in Fruit Growing, Farming and Trucking" (Raleigh),
is a most admirable article on thermal belts written by the
late Silas McDowell, of Macon county, in 1858, for the U. S.
Patent Office Report, from observations made near Franklin;
and in the same paper are excerpts from a report made by the
late Professor John LeConte on the thermal belts or "frost-
less zones of the flanks of the mountain spurs adjacent to the
valleys of the Blue Ridge." His observations were made at
Flat Rock, Henderson county, fifty miles east of Franklin.
"These facts point out this region as the best place to be
found for the cultivation of celery, cauliflower, tomatoes and
other vegetables for canning; raspberries and strawberries, for
shipment and preserving; for peaches, pears, fine apples, cher
ries, quinces and currants; also for the finer table and wine
grapes. "
Milk Sick. In former years, before the country had been
cleared of its forests, far more than at the present time, though
the malady still exists in certain localities, there was prevalent a
disease popularly known as "milk sick, " socalled because it was
supposed to be caused by the drinking of the milk of cows
which had been pastured on "milk sick" land. The cows
themselves do not at first disclose the fact that they were suffer
ing any ill effects from having pastured there, as, if they did, it
would be easy for people to avoid the disease by refraining
from the use of milk of such cattle. On the contrary, such
cows seem to be normal. This sickness is usually fatal
to the victim unless properly treated. There were, and still
are, for that matter, men and women peculiarly skilled and
successful in the treatment of this obscure disease, who were
called "milk sick" doctors. Sometimes they were not doc
tors or physicians at all, and did not pretend to practice
medicine generally, seeming to know how to treat nothing
except "milk sick." Whiskey or brandy with honey is the
usual remedy; but in the doses and proportionate parts of
each ingredient and when to administer it consisted the skill
of the physician. When the "patch" of land supposed to

526 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
contain milk sick had been located it was fenced off and all
cattle kept from grazing there.
Symptoms. In his "Medicine in Buncombe County Down
to 1885 : Historical and Biographical Sketches," 1906, Dr.
Galliard S. Tennent, M. D., says :
"The symptoms, those of severe gastro-enteritis with some varia
tions, were said to follow the ingestion of milk or butter from an in
fected cow. The origin was variously ascribed to some plant or fungus
growth, or to some mineral poison occurring in certain spots."
Disease Cannot Be Accounted For. Here is what the
United States Department of Agriculture says on the sub
ject : 1 *
"In reply I beg to advise you that many efforts have been made to
elucidate the question regarding the nature and cause of milk sickness,
but although many theories have been discussed none of them have so
far been generally accepted. Some investigators hold that the disease
is of micro-organismal origin, some that it is due to an autointoxication,
while others think it is caused by vegetable or mineral poisons. All
seem, however, to agree that the disease is limited to low swampy un
cultivated land, and that the area of the places where it occurs is often
restricted to one of a few acres. Furthermore, that when such land or
pastures have been cultivated and drained the disease disappears com
pletely. "The discovery of a new focus of this disease in the Pecos Valley of
New Mexico in November, 1907, gave Jordan and Harris the oppor
tunity of studying this peculiar affection by modern bacteriological
methods. As a result they have succeeded in isolating in pure cultures
from the blood and organs of animals dead of this disease a spore-form
ing bacillus which they name Bacillus lactimorbi. With this bacillus they
have reproduced in experiment animals the symptoms and lesions pe
culiar to milk sickness or trembles, and from these animals the same
organism has been recovered in purity. It therefore appears to have
been demonstrated that the bacillus in question is the actual cause of
the disease. As Jordan and Harris have already indicated, more com
prehensive studies, based on a larger supply of material, are desirable
in order that the many obscure and mystifying features connected with
the etiology of this rapidly disappearing disease may be elucidated.
"The proper means of preventing losses from this disease is by ex
cluding access to such pastures where the disease is known to occur.
This has been done .with good results in many places by the use of barb
wire fences.
"The affected animals should be kept as quiet as possible and a dose
of one pound of Epsom salts dissolved in water administered as a drench.
If the symptoms become alarming a competent veterinarian should be
employed. "
Honey Dew or Plant Lice. There is a sugary forma
tion often observable on the leaves of certain trees and sap-

FLORA AND FAUNA 527
lings — usually of chestnut, oak and hickory — which looks like
a coating of honey which has dried upon the upper surface
of such leaves. It has a sweetish taste, which has given it
the name of honey-dew. Many persons really believe it is a
sweet dew which settles on the upper surface of the leaves;
but when the question as to the cause of this deposit was
asked, the United States Department of Agriculture thus ex
plained it : 1 2
"The honey-dew, in question, is secreted by plant lice, scale insects,
or leaf-hoppers, and more especially by plant lice, which appear early in
the season and become frequently very numerous and gradually disappear
as the summer advances. The honey-dew is exuded by therrJfrom the
anal end of the body and accumulates on the leaves below them."
NOTES.
XT. L. Lowe's "History of Watauga County."
2The facts stated herein are from "Southern Wild Flowers," by Alice Loundesberry,
and P. M. Hale's "Woods and Timbers of North Carolina."
3Michaux's journal and facts about his life are set out in Dugger's book, pp. 251-259,
and were taken from a memoir prepared by Mr. Charles S. Sargent for the American Philo
sophical Society of Philadelphia.
»J. W. Powell, director, 1897-'98.
'Ibid., p. 27.
8These berries grow wild, and it is surprising that no effort has been made to culti
vate them.
7See ' ' North Carolina, A Land of Opportunity in Fruit Growing, Farming and Truck
ing," issued by the Department of Agriculture, Raleigh, N. C
8See Bulletin of ' ' North Carolina Fruit Land tor Sale, " issued by Department of Agri
culture, Raleigh, 1910.
"Balsam Groves, 248.
i°McClure, 233.
"Letter of A. D. Melvin to Hon. J. C. Pritchard, February 7, 1912. Nancy Hanks,
Abraham Lincoln's mother, died of milk-sick.
12L. O. Howard to Hon. J. C. Pritchard, February 9, 1912.

CHAPTER XXIII
PHYSICAL PECULIARITIES
An Impossible Task. To give a full and detailed account
or description of all the peculiar physical features of this
Land of the Sky would be impossible in the allotted space.
Doubtless there are many that are unknown to the writer.
The facts given, however, may be relied on as an under —
rather than as an over — statement.
Was it Ever "Lake Tahkeeostee?" "Whether or not
the valley of the French Broad near Asheville was ever, as
has been supposed, the head of a mountain lake, whose lower
or deepest part was above Mountain Island and Hot Springs,
is an unsettled question for the geologists. 1 Certain it is that
the French Broad has cut its way through the mountains
at Mountain Island, as is apparent to the most casual observer
of the mountains at that place, not only in the obvious signs
that still remain to indicate the exact spot where it cut through,
but also in the unquestionable beds of that river in the days
gone by now on the tops of the mountain ridges which lie along
its western banks, probably 200 feet higher than its present
bed, and only a short distance above the Mountain Island.
These old beds cross the channel of the present stream below
the Palisades at Stackhouse's and above the Mountain Island.
They contain many stones worn smooth and rounded by the
abrasions to which their position in the river subjected them."
This is also true of the stones on Battery Park hill. Dr.
Sondley suggests that this may have been the famous lake
mentioned by Lederer in his account of exploration into North
Carolina in 1669-70, as it "fits the description and lies near
the place," describing his visit to the Sara Indians who were
subject to "a neighbor king residing upon the bank of a great
lake called the Ushery, environed on all sides with mountains
and Wisacky marsh." The water of this lake was a little
brackish, due to mineral waters flowing into it, and was about
ten leagues broad. He cites Hawk's History of North Caro
lina, p. 49.
Minor Oddities. On the waters of Meat Camp, Watauga,
is a field formerly belonging to David Miller who represented
(528)

PHYSICAL PECULIARITIES 529
Ashe in the House of Commons in 1810, 1811 and 1813, still known
as the "Sinking Spring Field," because its water sinks shortly
after appearing on the surface of the ground. In this field
was also the largest white oak of which people still speak, said
to have been 32J^ feet in circumference and from 50 to 60
feet to the first limbs. There are several immense springs
which gush out of the earth in what is still known as The
Meadows, mentioned in the will of Robert Henry as having
belonged to him at the time of his death, but which is now
owned by the heirs of Dr. Hitchcock of Murphy. On a ridge
on the bank of Little Santeetla, near where John Denton used
to live, is the largest single spring in the mountains, the stream
from it being almost a creek. On the same ridge at the point
known as Howard's Knob, near Boone, and probably half a
mile to the northeast, is a place about ten feet in diameter
on which it is said no snow was ever known to lie, and a piece
of the ore taken from it melted into lead. There is also still
some talk of a Swift and Munday mine, now long lost, but
supposed to be somewhere in Ashe. What metal it was sup
posed to contain is not now known.
Cheoah and Nantahala Rivers Originally One. In
the description of the Nantahala quadrangle (1907) the
United States Geological survey says of the Nantahala and
Cheoah rivers:
"Nantahala river has by far the greatest descent, failing from 4,100
feet on the Blue Ridge to a little less than 1,600 feet at the point where
it joins the Little Tennessee, an average grade of about 65 feet per mile,
the greater part of it coming in the upper 25 miles. A similarly rapid
fall characterizes the lower portion of Cheoah river. Originally the Nan
tahala flowed in a direct course down the Cheoah valley. It was di
verted about midway in its course by a branch of Little Tennessee river,
working back along the soluble Murphy marble. Its old elevation of
2,800 feet is marked by pebble deposits on summits one and one-half
miles nearly west and three miles nearly southeast of Nantahala. On
the upper reaches of both these streams small plateaus and terraces,
rarely over a mile in width, accompany the watercourses. Below Aquone,
on the Nantahala, and Buffalo creek, on the Cheoah, the channels of the
rivers descend in narrow and rapidly deepening canyons. Similar pla
teaus, from two to four miles wide, border the upper parts of the Little
Tennessee and Tuckaseegee. The river channels have cut their way 200
to 500 feet below the surface of these plateaus. Not far beyond the
junction of these two rivers the valley is hemmed in by steep mountains
and becomes a narrow and rocky gorge. The descent of 4,000 feet from
Hangover to the mouth of Cheoah river is accomplished in a trifle over
four miles. "
W. N. C— 34

530 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
The Balds. There are no balds on the Blue Ridge; but
from Whitetop at the Virginia line to the Stratton and Hooper
balds in Graham county, the Great Smoky mountain sum
mits, abound in bald spots. They are usually above the
5,000-foot mark, and contain no trees whatever. Instead,
they are carpeted with rich wild grass, and tradition says
that before white men turned their cattle on them to graze,
this grass was "saddle-high." Some of the transverse ranges
have these balds also, notably the Nantahalas and the Bal
sams. There must be a thousand acres of almost level and
perfectly bald lands on the Roan and Yellow mountains, and
a large acreage on the Tusquittee and Nantahala. From
Thunderhead in Swain to the Little Tennessee river there
is a succession of bald summits, and the Andrews bald just
north of Clingman's Dome covers a considerable area. There
are invariably small springs flowing from the edges of these
bald spots, where cattle slake their thirst in midsummer.
From a distance these green patches seem to be yellow, hence
the name of the Yellow mountain just north of the Roan.
Surrounding these balds are usually forests of balsam trees
in primeval state. The Blacks and Clingman's Dome are
covered with them, also the Balsam mountains, in Haywood
county. The soil is black and deep.
Stratton and Hooper Balds. At the head of Santeetla
and Buffalo creeks in Graham county, near its junction with
Cherokee, are the Hooper and Stratton Balds, named for first
settlers by those names. Near them are the Haw Knob and
Laurel Top; and to the north Hangover, Hayo and Fodder
Stack mountains. Just below the Hangover is the residence
of Dave Orr, one of the pioneers of that section and still a
famous bear hunter. In 1897 a bear caught his bell-wether,
and the next day Dave belled a cowardly young hound and
left him to gnaw upon the carcass of the dead sheep, and
waited. Soon the pup came running, with bruin at his heels.
Dave had a "mess of bar meat for dinner that day."
Tusquittee Balds. The view from the balds of Tus
quittee is unsurpassed in the mountains. There are several
bald prominences on this mountain, one of which is known
as the Medlock Bald and another the Pot Rock Bald, from
a depression in the rock almost the exact size and depth of
an ordinary pot. It is at least two miles along the top of
this mountain, which forms an elbow in its course.

PHYSICAL PECULIARITIES 531
To the north of this range and scarcely three miles distant
is the parallel range, known as Valley River mountains, and
they are separated by Fires creek. They come together at
a point called Nigger Head. This is at the head of Tunah
and Chogah creeks, and there is a high, narrow ridge running
from it to the Weatherman Bald, across which deer and bear
used to have to pass when driven by the hunters from the
head of Chogah creek or Fires creek. It was along this sharp
ridge, scarcely wide enough for a narrow footpath, that
"Standers" used to be placed in order to get a shot at the
fleeing game. The late Alex. P. Munday of Aquone used to
be a famous bear hunter, and his old dog, "Nig," and his
gray stallion, "Buck," knew better where to go than he did
himself in order to get the best stand for a shot. It is near
here that one finds the Juckers and Weatherman "roughs,"
or rocky places, grown up in vines, laurel and spruce pines.
"Roughs" is sufficiently descriptive of them. On the Valley
River mountains the principal peaks are Beal's Knob, White
Oak Knob, the Big Stamp Knob and the Peachtree Knob.
Mitchell's Peak. This highest point east of the Rocky
mountains is about thirty miles from Asheville. The road
used to go via what is now Black Mountain Station and the
old Patton house, near what is the intake of the city water
works and Gombroon, up the North Fork of the Swannanoa
river almost to the Estatoe gap, where it took to the left, and
passing the Half Way house, built by the late William Pat
ton of Charleston, S. C, zig-zagged up to the top. There is
now a road via Montreat and Graybeard. Another trail
is from Pensacola,"in Yancey, in trying to follow which Prof.
Mitchell lost his life, and another from South Toe river. It
is also possible to go along the ridge from Celo at the head
of Cattail. In 1905 Mr. R. S. Howland constructed a road
from what is now the E. W. Grove park to the top of Sun
set mountain, thence to Locust gap, thence to Craven's gap,
and thence to within half a mile of Bull gap, the grade being
about one per cent from Overlook Park, and costing over
$50,000. Later on Dr. C. P. Ambler constructed a road from
this terminus to his house on a slope of Craggy, and known
as Rattlesnake Lodge. From there on, in 1911, a riding way
was built via Craggy to Mitchell's Peak; but it was never
finished. This is the road that will be converted into "The

532 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Crest of the Blue Ridge" highway, and will pass Mitchell's
Peak and go on via Altamont to Linville gap, over the Yonah-
lossie road to Blowing Rock. Work was done on this road
near Altamont in the Summer of 1912. The view from
Mitchell's Peak is somewhat obstructed by the balsam growth
surrounding it, and as clouds hover over it almost constantly,
disappointment often attends a visit to this lofty point. In
1877 there was a hut made of balsam logs and covered with
boughs, that afforded shelter to visitors, in addition to that
under the shelving ledge of rock, beneath which hundreds of
visitors have shivered and lain awake for hours. About 1885
the U. S. Weather Bureau established a station there, when
more comfortable quarters were constructed for the observers.
They had to "pack" their supplies up late in the fall, and
were practically isolated till spring. That house, however,
like the first spoken of, was afterwards burned by vandals.
Other vandals, later on have shot holes through the monu
ment to Prof. Mitchell, and one fiend sank his axe-blade clean
through one of its sides. There is a good spring near the
peak. In 1912 a lumber company erected another shelter on
top, and quarters can be secured for a night's lodging under
certain conditions. Mr. William Patton of Charleston built
the first trail to the top in 1857-58.
The Grandfather. From Linville city in Avery county,
from Banner Elk, and from Blowing Rock good trails run
to the top of the highest of the five peaks of the Grandfather.
Pinola and Montezuma on the Linville river railroad are the
nearest railroad points. The view is splendid — unsurpassed,
in fact. Near the top is a spring which is said to be the cold
est in the mountains, being 45° in all seasons. Alexander
McRae's and the Grandfather Inn are the nearest stopping
places. McRea was born in Glenelg, Inverness county, Scotland,
and came over to America in 1885, and has furnished music on
the bagpipes to visitors to the Grandfather ever since. 2
The Roan Mountain. This can be reached from Roan
Mountain station on the East Tennessee and Western North
Carolina Railroad or from Bakersville, three miles from
Toecane on the Cincinnati, Clinchfield and Ohio Railroad.
It is much patronized by hay-fever patients. There is a
fine hotel there. The view is better than any other. It is
over 6,000 feet above the sea.

PHYSICAL PECULIARITIES 533
Nantahala Balds. The Wayah, Wine Spring, Rocky,
Jarrett's and Little balds are the principal peaks. They can
be reached from Franklin or from Aquone, both in Macon
county. The view is splendid.
Thunderhead. Just above what is still known as the
Anderson Road, an abandoned wagon road from Tennessee to
the Spence cabin in Swain, stands Thunderhead, one of the
lofty peaks of the Great Smokies. From it Miss Mary N.
Murfree saw the picture her pen painted in one of her stories
of this region :
A Pen Picture. "On a certain steep and savage slope of
the Great Smoky Mountains the primeval wilderness for many
miles is unbroken save one meagre clearing. The presence of
humanity upon the earth is further attested only by a log
cabin, high on the rugged slant. At night, the stars seem
hardly more aloof than the valley below. By day, the moun
tains assert their solemn vicinage, an austere company. The
clouds that silently commune with the great peaks, the sin
ister and scathing deeds of the lightnings, the passionate rhet
oric of the thunders, the triumphant pageantry of the sunset
tides, and the wistful yearnings of the dawn aspiring to the
day — these might seem only incidents of this lonely and ex
alted life. So august is this mountain scheme that it fills all
the world with its massive multitudinous presence: still
stretching out into the dim blue distances an infinite per
spective of peak and range and lateral spur, till one may
hardly believe that the fancy does not juggle with the fact." 3
Hells. There are many tangles and thicketty places in
the coves of these mountains, and others where the laurel
and ivy and small spruce pines so cover the banks of the
streams as to render locomotion along them impossible. Axes
are necessary to hew a way in many places, and woe to that
man who ventures too far into their depths by crawling or
creeping between their rigid branches. At the head of Tellico
creek in Tennessee and in the Rainbow country of North Caro
lina, where the State line is now in dispute, is what is called
Jeffries Hell. It is said that many years ago a man named
Jeffries got bewildered in that place and spent nine days there
without food before he managed to effect his escape. There
are other hells in the mountains, but Jeffries' is the largest
and most famous.

534 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
The Chimneys. At the head of one of the Pigeons, and
just west of Collins gap, visible from the Ocona Lufty road,
are three sharp, pyramidal shaped pinnacles called the Chim
neys. They are covered with small spruce pines and rocks,
but how any soil manages to cling to such steep mountain
sides is a mystery. They are green in winter because of the
spruce pines covering them, and present a striking contrast
to other peaks around them.
Graphic Pen Pictures. In "The Heart of the Allegha
nies" we have glowing descriptions of the view from Cling
man's Dome, the culminating point of the Great Smoky range,
and which Gen. Clingman measured in 1857 ; of the Great Balsam
Divide, the Plott Balsams, and of the mysterious Juda-Culla
Old Field, just south of the Old Bald gap between Richland creek
and Caney Fork river; which always "presents a weird and
unnatural appearance. ... Its only growth presents a
peculiar yellowish look, and the fact that no tree or sapling
has ever grown within its limits has not been accounted for
scientifically." Here, the legend says, the giant Tsulkalu
made a clearing for his farm. Here flint arrow-heads and
broken pottery have been found, showing "almost conclu
sively that some of the Cherokees themselves . . . oc
cupied it as an abiding place for years." This book also
tells of the "fire-scalds, " and of the Devil's Court House in the
Balsams, which, however, is not his Supreme court house,
the latter being on Whiteside mountain. Gen. Clingman, in his
"Speeches and Writings," describes Shining Rock in the Bal
sams most strikingly; and says of the Devil's Old Field on
the Balsams that it was the Devil's chosen resting place. He
also accounts for the balds by saying the Indians supposed
they were made by the devil's footsteps as he walked over
the tops of the mountains. A fine description of the Tucka
seegee falls above Webster is given in the "Heart of the
Alleghanies." Other Noted Rocks. Buzzards' Rocks and the Dogs'
Ears, near ShuU's Mills, Watauga county; Black Rock, above
Horse Cove; Satula (pronounced Stooly), near Highlands;
Samson's Chimney, near Howard's Knob at Boone; Hawk's
Bill and Table Rock, between Morganton and Linville moun
tain; Riddle's and Howard's Knobs, near Boone; Nigger
Head, near Jefferson, and scores of others are objects of local

PHYSICAL PECULIARITIES 535
interest in various localities. Hanging Rock, above Banner
Elk, and the North Pinnacle, on the Beech mountain, in the
same locality, are noted rocks, from the last of which a fine
view can be had after an easy climb from a good road.
Track Rocks. "Some distance further to the west (from
Juda-Culla Old Field) on the north bank of Caney Fork, about
one mile above Moses' creek and perhaps ten miles above
Webster, is the Juda-Culla Rock, a large soap-stone slab cov
ered with rude carvings, which, according to . . . tra
dition, are scratches made by the giant in jumping from his
farm on the mountain to the creek below. " 4 Tracks of elk*
wolves, etc., are said to be visible in a rock at the head of
Devil's creek in Mitchell county.
"The Rocks." What are locally known as "The Rocks"
are two immense masses of stone standing detached in a pas
ture field on the road from Plumtree to Bakersville. They
are a landmark. Bynum's Bluff is also noted.
Small Natural Bridge. Just over the ridge from the
Caney Fork of the Tuckaseegee river, in what is called Can
ada, and where it has been suspected that one or more block
ade stills have existed in time past, present and (will) to come,
is Tennessee creek. It flows under a small natural rock bridge
when it is normal, and over it when it is "full. "
The Triangle Tree. Almost one mile above Fairfax
post office on the Little Tennessee river, in Swain county,
stood, until a great freshet came and washed it away eight
or ten years ago, one of the most unusual and remarkable
freaks in the shape of tree growth in America. But so isolated
had it become by reason of the practical abandonment of late
years of the wagon road from Bushnel to Rocky Point that
few strangers ever saw it, while to the few natives of that
region, who had seen it for years and years, it called for no
marked attention.
It was a large spruce pine at least three feet in diameter
five feet above the ground where a limb or branch of a
diameter of at least eighteen inches left the main trunk at an
angle of about forty-five degrees and extended out toward
the river, while three feet above its point of departure from the
main trunk a second limb or branch, twelve inches in diameter,
shot out in the same direction as the first, but at an angle of
seventy-five or eighty degrees and joined itself to the first limb

536 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
six or seven feet from its base so perfectly that it grew into
and had become a part thereof, thus forming with the main
trunk a perfect triangle of living wood. It was easy to climb
into this triangle and by sitting astride the first or lower limb
to hold the body erect against the trunk of the tree imme
diately under the second limb. It is a pity it was never photo
graphed, but the dimensions given above are accurate, since
they were carefully measured and noted while the tree was
still standing in all its glory.
The High Rocks. Just below the mouth of Eagle creek
are what are locally called the "High Rocks." They are a
tumbled mass of solid rocks, some of them larger than a two-
roomed house, resting one upon the other above the riverside
and extending almost to the top of the mountain. They are
apparently now just where they found themselves when eons
and eons ago some cataclysm of nature tumbled these moun
tains about as though they had been pebbles and grains of
sand. The Chimneys. On the road from Montezuma to Banner
Elk and just before reaching the Sugar Gap, are two other
large masses of rock projecting out of the side of the mountain
like two enormous and discolored incisor teeth. One of them
is said to be eighty feet in height and the other and further
one from the road, nearly as high. There is no photograph
of these immense rock heaps, but fortunately there is no
danger of their destruction by a freshet or other cause. They
are called "The Chimneys."
The Devil's Cap. Eight miles from Altamont and about
three from the Cold Spring hotel in Burke county, on Ginger
Cake mountain, and just east of Linville river, below Linville
Falls, is what is called the Devil's Cap. It is a perpendicular
mass of rock sixty or seventy feet high and about twenty feet
in diameter, surmounted by a large flat stone so placed on its
pedestal as to look as if it must surely soon slide off and fall to the
ground. It is in a little swag or gap in this ridge, and is best
seen from the top of a precipice near by, from which can also
be had, through a rift in the dense foliage, a magnificent view
of the wild and romantic Linville Gorge, the wildest and most
inaccessible in the mountains, with the possible exception of
that of the Nantahala, between the "Apple Tree" place and
Jarrett's Station on the Murphy branch of the Western North

PHYSICAL PECULIARITIES 537
Carolina Railroad. This freak of nature, the Devil's Cap,
however, has been photographed.
Dutch Creek Falls. Within half a mile of Valle Crucis
school, Watauga, are the Dutch creek falls, which are about
eighty feet in height. The little stream spreads itself evenly
over the surface of the precipice down which it slides rather
than falls, forming a fine picture as seen from the gloomy
gorge below. It is more easy of access than falls generally
are, and is well worth a visit.
Linville Falls are at Linville, a postoffice and village
in what is now Avery county. The falls had in 1876 two
distinct falls, each about 35 feet in height, the upper falls
pouring into a small basin and then plunging over another
precipice into the black pool below. But, of late years, the
lower ledge of rock has given way from some cause, and much
of the water passes under and around the boulders into which
it has been broken, instead of falling smoothly over a straight
line of rock, as formerly. It is the most accessible of all falls
now. Elk Falls. Three miles from Cranberry are the Falls of
Elk, and they are about as high as the Dutch creek falls, but
carrying more water in the descent. The cascades or rapids
of the same creek a few miles above, at Banner's Elk, are also
worth a visit.
Watauga Falls are a few hundred feet west of the North
Carolina and Tennessee line. They are hardly falls, but rapids,
pouring an immense volume of water through a narrow gorge,
and requiring several hundred feet at that place to gain com
parative smoothness. The scenery around the falls is wild
and imposing, the rocks left bare by the current being immense.
It is only about a quarter of a mile from the Butler- Valle Crucis
turnpike. The "Dry" Falls. The Dry, or Pitcher falls, of the Cul-
lasaga river, four miles from Highlands, are so called because
the stream leaps from the precipice above and leaves a clear
dry space beneath, behind and under which one can pass to
the further side dry-shod. It is about seventy-five feet in
height and the water pours over the rock ledge from which
it leaps much as does a stream poured from the mouth of a
pitcher. Hickory-Nut Falls. The Hickory Nut Falls are just east
of the Hickory Nut gap of the Blue Ridge. This appears to

538 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
be a mere ribbon of water hung from the top of the preci
pice, but in reality it is a creek of such size as to have power
to turn a grist mill before leaping to the gorge nine hundred
feet below.
Chimney Rock. Between this loftiest waterfall in the Ap
palachians and the Hickory Nut gap road is the Chimney
Rock, an enormous rock mass on the eastern slope of the
Blue Ridge, eighty or ninety feet in height. The large trees
growing around it reveal by contrast its immense size and
height. Though, till within the last twenty years, no man
had ever scaled its height to let the plummet down, a ladder
like stairway now reaches its summit and a wooden railing
extends all the way around it.
The Pools. The Pools, just above the old Logan hotel or
tavern in the same picturesque locality, are three circular
holes from eight to fifteen feet in diameter, in the rock bed
of the creek, all of which are said to be bottomless. It is
evident that they were made by the revolution of small stones
on the softer surface of the creek bed, kept in constant mo
tion by the continual flow of the creek; but they are not bot
tomless, nor is there any danger of suction, as swimmers
disport themselves in their cool depths every summer.
Esmeralda's Cabin. Just across the road is the detached
rock mass locally known as Esmeralda's cabin, because of the
delightful romance located in that region by the gifted Mrs.
Frances Hodgson Burnett, called "Esmeralda," and which
was popular twenty-five years ago. Indeed, the novel was
dramatized and successfully played at that time in New York
and all over the country.
Shaking Bald. Here, too, is Esmeralda Inn, long kept by
Col. Thomas Turner, a veteran of the Federal Army, and now
by his son, while not far away is Bat Cave, a gloomy cavern
in the face of the mountain above one prong of the Broad
river; and Shaking Bald, a mountain top which, in the sev
enties, caused considerable newspaper comment because of the
noises said to have been heard in that locality. Earthquake
shocks and volcanoes even were predicted for several years,
but nothing ever came of the stories. This locality, one of
the most charming and picturesque in the mountains, is ade
quately described in Christian Reid's "Land of the Sky,"
the novel which gave its name to this entire region. It was

PHYSICAL PECULIARITIES 539
published in 1875 5 and was one of the means of drawing pub
lic attention to the beautiful scenery of the mountain region
of North Carolina and its unsurpassed summer climate. The
Hickory Nut region is in what is called the Thermal Belt.
Hot Springs. Paint Rock and Hot Springs, on the French
Broad river, about forty miles northwest from Asheville, are
two other remarkable places in this mountain region worthy
of mention, which the same gifted author described with her
facile pen in the same charming story. Hot Springs was dis
covered in 1887 by some soldiers from the Watauga settle
ment when in pursuit of a band of Cherokee Indians, and has
been a noted health resort ever since. Although its waters
are strongly impregnated with mineral and have medicinal
properties, they are as clear as crystal. They are very bene
ficial for gouty and rheumatic troubles. There is a large and
well appointed hotel which is very popular every season of
the year.
Paint Rock. "The Painted Rock" of old Cherokee days,
or "Paint Rock" of our times, is a rock cliff over a hundred
feet in height which has a red stain on its outer surface
caused by the oxidation of the iron in its composi
tion. Whatever figures of men or animals ever existed upon
its face have long since disappeared. There is the usual ro
mantic story of one or two lovers throwing himself or herself,
or themselves, from the top of this rock and from the top of
another rock nearly as high in the neighborhood of Hot
Springs, called Lover's Leap, but there is no tangible evi
dence that any local lovers ever were so foolish.
The Smoking Mountain. Twenty years ago there were a
series of newspaper stories of a smoking mountain above Bee
Tree creek in Buncombe county, and many citizens visited
the locality in question only to be disappointed, while none
save those living constantly in the neighborhood ever saw the
smoke, and by the time others were called from a distance
it had disappeared. What it was, if anything more than
autumn haze or imagination, was never established. It,
however, "had nothing to do with anything regarding vol
canic action."6
The Walks. A short distance below Flat Shoals of
Watauga river, and near the Tennessee line, are a series of im
movable natural stepping stones, regularly placed across the

540 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
bed of the river, and over which one may walk dry-shod even
when the stream is considerably swolen. Hence the name —
The Walks.
"Thus Far." Almost from the Virginia line to the Little
Tennessee river there is a fringe of balsam or white spruce
crowning the crest of the western escarpment known as the
Smoky mountains, except where the dense blue fringe of trees
is broken by the "balds." But, remarkable as it may seem,
there is not a single tree or sapling of the balsam growth
south of the Little Tennessee, although the Gregory Bald,
only a few miles to the northeast, is fringed by a dense growth
of balsams which extend to both the Big and Little Parson
balds. The soil and climate and, indeed, the altitude of the
range south of the Little Tennessee, are almost identical with
those to the north, but neither bird nor breeze has ever car
ried the balsam seed across the river and imbedded it in the
soil beyond in a manner that has resulted in its growth across
the dead line of that rapid stream.
Hell's Half-Acre.7 "The bear-hunters are the only men
familiar with these head-waters of the Richland creek. At
the foot of the steep, funereal wall lies one spot known as
Hell's Half-Acre. Did you ever notice, in places along the
bank of a wide woodland river, after a spring flood, the great
piles of huge drift-logs, sometimes covering an entire field,
and heaped as high as a house? Hell's Half-Acre is like one
of these fields. It is wind and' time, however, which bring
the trees, loosened from their hold on the dizzy heights and
craggy slopes, thundering down into this pit.
"The Chimbleys and Shinies."7 The "Chimbleys and
Shinies," as called by the mountaineers, form another feature
of the region of the Gulfs. The former are walls of rock,
either bare or overgrown with wild vines and ivy. They take
their name from their resemblance to chimneys as the fogs
curl up their faces and away from their tops. The Shinies
are sloping ledges of rock, bare like the Chimneys, or cov
ered with great thick plaits of shrubs, like the poisonous hem
lock, the rhododendron, and kalmia. Water usually trickles
over their faces. In winter it freezes, making surfaces that,
seen from a distance, dazzle the eye.
" Herrycanes. " The effects of a hurricane in the Bal
sam mountains are described thus in "The Heart of the Alle
ghanies":

PHYSICAL PECULIARITIES 541

"For two miles, along this sharp ridge, nearly every other tree had
been whirled by the storm from its footing. They not only covered the
path with their trunks bristling with straight branches; but, instead of
being cut off short, the wind had torn them up by the roots, lifting there
by all the soil from the black rocks, and leaving great holes for us to
descend into, cross and then ascend. It was a continuous crawl and
climb for this distance."
Violent windstorms are rare in these mountains, owing to
the fact that they are broken up as they approach from the
lowlands east, west and south; but there are two other places
called "herrycanes," one being on a branch at the head of
Tusquittee creek in Clay county, and the other on Indian
creek just above its junction with Ugly creek, thus forming
Cataloochee creek in Haywood county. The Clay hurricane
occurred soon after the Civil War or during it, and the Hay
wood hurricane about 1896. The fallen timber in Clay is
still visible, while a whole mountain side in front of Jesse
Palmer's residence is covered with the rent fragments of giant
trees which have been uprooted or twisted from their trunks
bodily. Looking-Glass Falls. These are in Transylvania county
and are on G. W. Vanderbilt's "Pisgah Forest tract." In the
sale of his timber in 1812, he reserved twenty acres around
these falls. 8
notes.
rFrom "Asheville's Centenary."
'Balsam Groves, 231-232.
aFrom "The Despot of Broomsedge Cove," by Miss Mary N. Murfree.
'Nineteenth Eth. Rep., p. 407.
5D. Appleton & Co., publishers, but now out of print.
•Joseph Hyde Pratt, State Geologist, to J. P. A., April 5, 1912.
7Zeigler and Grosscup, p. 64.
"Buncombe Deed Book, No. 161, p. 518.

CHAPTER XXIV
MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY
"The State publications tell us, with well founded pride, that North
Carolina was the first government in America to order a geological sur
vey. Can she, on that account, afford to be the last state to publish a
full exposition of her geological structure and mineral resources?" —
"Heart of the Alleghanies," page 198.
Where to Get the Facts and Figures. North Caro
lina no longer deserves this reproach, as Bulletin No. 18 of
the North Carolina Geological and Economic Survey, pub
lished in 1909, is a bibliography of North CaroUna geology,
mineralogy and geography, with a list of maps. It contains,
with an admirable index, 428 pages, and is devoted exclu
sively to an alphabetical arrangement of the names of authors,
their writings on geology and mineralogy, mining and other
matters connected with minerals, etc., of this region. It wae
prepared by Dr. Francis Baker Laney, Ph.D., assistant cura
tor of geology of the U. S. National Museum, and Katharine
Hill Wood. It is thorough and exhaustive.
In addition thereto Professor Joseph Hyde Pratt, State
Geologist, and Professor Joseph Volney Lewis, formerly of
the Survey, but now of Rutgers College, N. J., are the au
thors of Volume I of the Reports of the North Carolina Geo
logical Survey, which contains a description of the corundum
and the periodite deposits of Western North Carolina. It also
was published in 1905, and contains maps, drawings, pictures and
designs illustrative of the subjects treated. It contains, with
the index, 464 pages, and either or both of the above vol
umes will be sent on application, if accompanied with the
postage. There are also several others of great value, among which
are Economic Paper No. 22, on forest fires and their pre
vention; Economic Paper No. 3, on talc and pyrophyllite de
posits in North Carolina; Economic Paper No. 1, on the maple
sugar industry; Economic Paper No. 20, on the wood using
industries of North Carolina; Economic Paper No. 23, on the
mining industry in North Carolina during 1908, 1909 and
1910, and No. 15 on mineral waters.
(542)

MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY 543
Available Scientific and Popular Descriptions. A sci
entific explanation of the formation of the Asheville quad
rangle will be found in the Asheville Folio, No. 116, U. S.
Geological Survey; and an interesting dissertation on the geo
logical formation and age of the Grandfather mountain is
contained in "The Heart of the Alleghanies"; and in the
same volume is a reference to Mr. King, the artist, who made
a journey through these mountains in 1874, and gave a de
scription of their mineral possibilities in Scribner's for that
year. September 15, 1864, Prof. Charles Upham Shepard of Yale
gave his views as to what minerals and metals might be dis
covered here, among which are gold and diamonds, and he
is quoted in Gen. Clingman's "Speeches and Writings."
GEOLOGICAL HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH
CAROLINA
By Joseph Hyde Pratt
The State of North Carolina is divided into three physio
graphic divisions, which have been designated as the Coastal
Plain, the Piedmont Plateau, and Mountain Region. That
part of the State lying to the west of the Blue Ridge is in
the Mountain region. This includes the Blue Ridge and the
Great Smokies and the country between, which is cut across
by numerous cross ranges separated by narrow valleys and
deep gorges. The average elevation of this region is about
2,700 feet above the sea level, but the summits of a great
many ridges and peaks are over 5,000 feet, while a consider
able number of peaks have a height of over 6,000, the highest
of which is Mount Mitchell with an elevation of 6,711 feet.
Over the larger part of this region are to be found the older
crystalline rocks, gneisses, granites, schists, and diarite that
are of pre-Cambrian age, which are greatly folded and turned
on their edges. On the western and eastern borders of this
mountain region, approximately along the line of the Blue
Ridge and Great Smokies, there are two narrow belts of
younger sedimentary rocks, consisting of limestone, shales,
and conglomerates, and their metamorphosed equivalents,
marbles, quartzites, and slates of Cambrian age.
The sedimentary rocks have been formed from sand,
gravel, and mud which have been deposited as the result of
alteration and erosion of the older rocks.

544 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
By the present position of the rocks we are able to obtain
records regarding the order in which the rocks of western
North Carolina were formed, and thus obtain a geological
history of the Mountain section. All the rocks of western
North Carolina are amongst the oldest geologic formations,
although there is considerable variation in the time at which
the various rocks encountered were formed. The oldest rock
formation is known as the Carolina gneiss, which consists of
large areas of mica, and garnet schists; and mica, garnet and
cyanite gneisses. The exact origin of this rock has not been
definitely determined : it may have resulted from the meta-
morphism of a granite rock. Mount Mitchell and the other
mountain peaks of the Black mountains are of Carolina
gneiss, as are also Gray Beard, the Craggies, Sunset Moun
tain, Pisgah, Great Hogback (Toxaway), and Standing In
dian (Clay county).
The next oldest rock formation of Western North Caro
lina is known as the Roan gneiss, which is not as extensive
as the Carolina gneiss, but forms much smaller areas and, as
a rule, forms long narrow bands cutting the Carolina gneiss.
They are also much less altered and are undoubtedly younger.
Roan, High Knob, Big Yellow Mountain, Cocks Knob, the
eastern slope of Craggy Dome and Bull Head Mountain,
Nofat mountain, and part of Caesar's Head, are all of Roan
gneiss. These mountains are, therefore, younger formations
than those mountains composed of Carolina gneiss.
Another granite formation has been intruded into the Caro
lina and Roan gneisses, forming rather small areas in the
northwestern portions of the mountains. These granites,
known as the Cranberry and Beech granites, are observed in
the vicinity of Blowing Rock, Beech mountain, Rich moun
tains, and part of Pumpkin Patch mountain. A similar gran
ite, known as the Henderson granite and of approximately
the same age, is found over a considerable area of southeastern
portions of Transylvania and Henderson counties and south
western portions of Buncombe county.
All these rocks referred to above are of deep-seated origin
and the lapse of time between the formation of the different
ones was undoubtedly very great. They formed mountain
ranges that were much higher than now observed, but these
have been subject to erosion which has brought them to their
present outline.

MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY 545
The next formation was the lava rocks, which were poured
forth upon the surface of the Archean rocks. These lava
flows are of considerably later period than the granites and
gneisses and are older than the overlying Cambrian sedi
mentary rocks, and they may belong to the Algonkian age.
Some of these rocks were undoubtedly of volcanic nature,
the intrusions coming to the surface as flows of lava and
spreading out over the Carolina and Roan gneisses and the
Cranberry and Beech granites. There was a very long inter
val between the formation of the last of the Archean rocks
before the volcanic activity; and during this period these old
Plutonic rocks were subject to very excessive erosion. This
volcanic activity probably extended into the Cambrian time,
and many of the lava flows were probably at the surface
when the Cambrian strata were laid down. The indication
of this is the finding of sheets of basalt conglomerate inter-
stratified with the lower strata of the Cambrian. Rocks of
this period include metadiabase, found just north of Lin
ville and to the east in Grandmother gap and crossing the
Yonahlossee road at several places; blue and green epidotic
schists, which have probably been altered from basalt, such
as are to be seen in the vicinity of Pinola and Montezuma,
Avery county, and Hanging Rock, Caldwell county; a gray
and black schist probably formed by the alteration of an
andicitic rock, which is to be observed on Flat Top moun
tain and Pine Ridge, Watauga county; and metarhyolite,
such as is found on the slopes of Dugger mountain, Sampson
mountain and in Cook's gap, Watauga county.
These Archean rocks, with the volcanic formations, were
then subjected to a long period of erosion, and the sea at the
same time encroached upon large areas of the dry land. The
sediments deposited formed the rocks which are known as
the Cambrian. Portions of the Archean rocks were sub
merged and at times uplifted, and there was not a continu
ous series of these sedimentary deposits.
These sedimentary rocks, formed from the erosion of the
Archean and Algonkian rocks and from salicious and calca
reous material deposited from animal life found in the sea,
consist of conglomerates, sandstones, shale, limestone, and
their metamorphic equivalents, quartzite, slate, and marble.
These are observed very extensively over considerable areas
w. N. c— 35

546 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
of western North Carolina, but principally, as stated above,
near the western and eastern sections of the mountain region.
Grandfather mountain is composed of one of these conglom
erates of the Cambrian age, as is also Grandmother mountain, a
large part of the area around Linville, and just to the east of
Pinola. A narrow strip of these rocks is to be found extend
ing across the extreme western part of Buncombe county,
across Henderson and Transylvania counties. Brevard is
situated in an area of these rocks, as is also Boylston, Mills
River, and Fletcher, Henderson county. Practically all of
Cherokee and Graham counties is composed of Cambrian
rocks and the western parts of Clay, Macon, and Haywood
counties. Swain county is composed largely of these Cam
brian rocks, with the exception of an area of Archean rocks
that is exposed around Bryson and for some distance to the
northeast. West of Asheville these Cambrian rocks are
observed in the vicinity of Stackhouse, Hot Springs, and
Paint Rock. They include all the limestones, such as are
being mined at Fletchers, Mills River, and other places in
Henderson and Transylvania counties; the limestones of
Madison county; and the marbles of Cherokee, Graham, and
Swain counties.
From the above it will be seen that the larger part of the
area of western North Carolina is composed of the Archean
rocks, representing the oldest geologic formations.
Associated with the rocks described above are various
minerals of economic importance, the history of which may
be of interest in connection with the geologic history of western
North Carolina. The precious metals occur very sparingly
in nearly all the counties of this section of the state, but in
only a very few places has any attempt been made to system
atically produce them, and this has been largely by placer
mining. Both the rocks of the Archean and Cambrian ages
apparently contain minute quantities of gold, but in none of
these have deposits been found of sufficient richness to be
profitably mined. In the early history of western North
Carolina it was customary for many of the inhabitants to pan
the various streams for gold and to pay their taxes in native
gold. Just how much gold has been taken from western
North Carolina in this way is not known; but it evidently
was several hundred thousand dollars.

MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY 547
Iron was discovered in western North Carolina almost as
soon as the country began to be settled, and the manufacture
of iron dates back before the Revolutionary War. These
early iron works consisted of the primitive Catalan forge
blown by the water trompe. Such forges were in operation
in Ashe, Mitchell, and Cherokee counties, and as late as 1893
one of these, the Pasley forge on Helton creek in Ashe county,
was in operation. These early forges supplied iron for all
local uses and the forges in Cherokee county shipped a good
deal into Tennessee. The most celebrated iron mine of west
ern North Carolina is the Cranberry, and this iron was worked
in Catalan forges as early as 1820. The following forges made
iron from the Cranberry ore : 1
"Cranberry Bloomery Forge, on Cranberry creek; built in 1820;
rebuilt in 1856; two fires and one hammer; made 17 tons of bars in 1857.
"Toe river Bloomery Forge, situated five miles south of Cranberry
forge; built in 1843; two fires and one hammer; made about four tons
of bars in 1856.
"Johnson's Bloomery Forge, six miles east of south from Cranberry;
built in 1841; had two fires and one hammer; made one and one-half
tons of bars in 1856."
This ore made an excellent quality of iron and soon became
known and attracted a great deal of attention throughout
the United States. Since 1882 the mine has been worked
almost continuously, and the ore was treated in a modern
blast furnace
Similar grades of iron ore are found in Ashe county, and the
following is a summary of the history of the Catalan forges
that were operated on these Ashe county magnetic ores:
"The Pasley forge was built by John Ballou at the mouth of Helton
creek in 1859; in 1871 it was rebuilt by the present owner, W. J. Pasley,
and is now sadly in need of repairs.
"Helton Bloomery Forge, on Helton creek, 12 miles N. N. W. of
Jefferson; built in 1829; two fires and one hammer; made in 1856 about
15 tons of bars. Washed away in 1858. Another forge was built one
and one-fourth miles lower down the creek in 1902, but did not stand
long. "Harbard's Bloomery Forge was situated near the mouth of Helton
creek; built in 1807 and washed away in 1817.
"Ballou's Bloomery Forge was situated 12 miles N. E. of Jefferson,
at the falls of North Fork of New river; built in 1817; washed away in
1832 by an ice freshet.
"North Fork Bloomery Forge was situated on North Fork of New
river, 8 miles N. W. of Jefferson; built in 1825; abandoned in 1829;
washed away in 1840.

548 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
"Laurel Bloomery Forge, on Laurel creek, 15 miles west of Jefferson;
built in 1847; abandoned in 1853. l
"New River Forge, on South Fork of New river, one-half mile above
its junction with North Fork; built in 1871; washed away in 1878."
The brown hematite ores of Cherokee county which occur
in the Cambrian rocks were worked in forges as early as 1840,
supplying the surrounding country with bar iron. We have
record of the following forges:
"Lovinggood Bloomery Forge, situated on Hanging Dog creek, two
miles above Fain forge; built from 1845 to 1853; two fires and one ham
mer; made in 1856 about 13 tons of bars.
"Lower Hanging Dog Bloomery Forge, on Hanging Dog Creek, five
miles northwest from Murphy; built in 1840; two fires and one hammer;
made in 1856 about four tons of bars. '
"Killian Bloomery Forge, situated one-half mile below the Lower
Hanging Dog Forge; built in 1843; abandoned in 1849.
"Fain Bloomery Forge, on Owl creek, two miles below the Loving-
good forge; built in 1854; two fires and one hammer; made in 1856 about
24 tons of bars.
"Persimmon Creek Bloomery Forge, situated on Persimmon creek,
12 miles southwest from Murphy; built in 1848; two fires and one ham
mer; made in 1855 about 45 tons of bars.
"Shoal Creek Bloomery Forge, situated on Shoal creek, five miles
west of the Persimmon Creek Forge; built about 1854; one fire and one
hammer; made in 1854 about one-half ton of bars."
With the exception of the blast furnace at Cranberry which
uses the magnetic iron ore from the Cranberry mine, no other
furnace has been erected in western North Carolina for the
treatment of iron ores; and when the Pasley forge on Helton
creek went out of commission, there was no other point in
western North Carolina, except Cranberry, where iron was
being made. A small amount of ore has been shipped from
time to time from various localities.
Copper mining at one time was a prominent industry of
western North Carolina; and while I have no definite data as
to when copper mines were first operated in western North
Carolina, we do know that copper properties were worked
before the Civil War, principally in Ashe and Alleghany
counties. The most noted mine was the Ore Knob, which
is in the southeast corner of Ashe county near the top of the
Blue Ridge and about two miles from New river. This mine
was first opened sometime before the War, but it was not
until some years after the war that it was developed to any
great extent. The ore deposit was worked to a depth of 400

MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY 549
feet by means of numerous shafts and drifts. The mine was
equipped with a smelter for producing a high grade of copper.
The amount of copper produced and shipped from January
1879 to April 1880, which was the time the mine was fully
operated, was something over 1,640 tons. The cost to pro
duce and market this copper was ten and thirty-nine one-
hundredth cents a pound. The mine has not been worked
since about 1882. Other copper properties that were worked
were the Copper Knob or Gap Creek mine in the southeast
part of Ashe county; the Peach Bottom mine on Elk creek,
Alleghany county; the Cullowhee mine on Cullowhee moun
tain, and Savannah mine on Savannah creek, Jackson county.
Another mineral for which western North Carolina is noted
is corundum. In 1870, Mr. Hiram Crisp found the first co
rundum that attracted attention to the present mining region
of North Carolina, at what is now the Corundum Hill mine.
A specimen was sent to Prof. Kerr, then state geologist, for
identification, and considerable interest was aroused when it
was discovered that it was corundum. In the same year Mr.
J. H. Adams found corundum in a similar occurrence at Pel-
ham, Massachusetts.
In 1870-71 much activity was displayed in the search for co
rundum in the periodite regions of the southwestern coun
ties of North Carolina, and new localities were soon brought
to light in Macon, Jackson, Buncombe, and Yancey coun
ties. About this time Mr. Crisp and Dr. C. D. Smith began
active work on the Corundum Hill property, and obtained
about a thousand pounds of corundum, part of which was
sold to collectors for cabinet specimens. Some of the masses
that were found weighed as much as 40 pounds.
Systematic mining for corundum did not begin until the
fall of 1871, when the Corundum Hill property was pur
chased by Col. Chas. W. Jenks, of St. Louis, Missouri, and
Mr. E. B. Ward, of Detroit, Michigan, and work was soon
begun under the superintendence of Col. Jenks. This was the
first systematic mining of common corundum, as distinguished
from emery and the gem varieties, ever undertaken, while the
first mining of the emery variety of corundum in America was
at Chester, Massachusetts. The Corundum Hill mine pro
duced corundum almost continuously from 1872 to 1901.
Other mines that have produced corundum are the Buck

550 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Creek mine in Clay county; the Ellijay mine in Macon county;
the Carter mine in Madison county; and the Higden mine and
Behr mine in Clay county.
Mica mining in North CaroUna began about 1870, and for
the first five years practically all the mica mined was handled
by Heap and Clapp, and was obtained from the mines of
Mitchell and Yancey counties. Mica has continued to be
mined almost constantly since that time not only in Yancy
and Mitchell counties, but in Ashe, Buncombe, Haywood,
Jackson, and Macon counties. There are a great many old
workings on these mica deposits, and before they had been
investigated and the mica discovered they were supposed to
be old workings of the Spaniards who were hunting for silver.
It is now supposed that these old workings were made by the
Indians for these sheets of mica; and it is known that mica
has been found in Indian mounds and was used by the In
dians who inhabited what is now Ohio in the manufacture of
their beads. North Carolina mica is still known as standard
mica, as it was reckoned from the beginning.
Several other minerals should be mentioned in connection
with the descriptions given above, as they were first identified
in North Carolina. The mineral that stands out most strik
ingly is the rhodolite, a gem mineral which was discovered in
Macon county about 1894 and was given its name from the
resemblance of its color to that of certain rhododendrons.
Mitchellite, a variety of chromite, was discovered near
Webster, Jackson county, in 1892, and was named in honor
of the late Prof. Elisha Mitchell of North Carolina.
Wellsite, one of the minerals of the zeolite group, was dis
covered in 1892 at the Buck Creek mine, Clay county, and
was named in honor of Prof. H. L. Wells of Yale University.
The following, belonging to the vermiculite group of miner
als, have been found associated with corundum, and were de
scribed by Doctor Genth; they were all discovered about the
same time in 1872 or 1873 : Culsageeite, a variety of Jef-
ferisite, found at the Corundum Hill mine and named for a
postoffice near that place; Kerrite, found at Corundum Hill
mine, and named in honor of Mr. W. C. Kerr, former State
Geologist of North Carolina; Maconite, found at the Corun
dum Hill mine and named after Macon county; Lucasite,
found at the Corundum Hill mine and named after Dr. H. S.

MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY 551
Lucas, who owned the Corundum Hill mine; Willcoxite, found
at the Buck creek (Cullakeene) mine, Clay county, and named
after Joseph Willcox of Philadelphia; Aurelite, found at the
Freeman mine, Green river, Henderson county, about 1888 —
it is a thorium mineral, and was named for Dr. Carl Auer von
Welsbach; Hatchettolite, a tantalium-uranium, was found at
the Wiseman Mica mine, Mitchell county, about 1877, and
was named after the English chemist, Charles Hatchett; phos-
phuranylite, a uranium mineral, found at the Flat Rock miner
Mitchell county, about 1879, and named from the chemicaL
composition of the mineral; and Rogersite, a niobium min
eral, found at the Wiseman Mica mine, Mitchell county, about
1877, named after Prof. W. B. Rogers."
NOTES.
1From"The Iron Manufacturer's Guide," 1859, by J. P. Lesley.
Note : The United States Geological Survey has ready for distribution, upon the
receipt of 25 cents each, the following geologic folios each of which contains descriptive text,
topographic map, areal geology map, economic geology map, structure section sheet and
columnar section sheet. All information as to the geology and mineralogy of the
quadrangles treated can be found in these folios:
Cranberry Folio, No. 90, issued 1903.
Asheville Folio, No. 116, issued 1904.
Mount Mitchell Folio, No. 124, issued 1905.
Nantahala Folio, No. 143, issued 1907.
Pisgah Folio, No. 147, issued 1907.
Roan Mountain Folio, No. 151, issued 1907.

CHAPTER XXV
MINES AND MINING
Prehistoric Workings. Evidences of the early working
of mines in this mountain region are so frequent and unmis
takable as to leave no doubt that in several places mining
was carried on at least three hundred years ago. But by whom
is the problem.
The Andrews Sun of January 4, 1912, having stated that
Tristan de Velazquez carried on mining in Cherokee county,
the matter was submitted to the Librarian of Congress with
the following result:
Not Tristan de Velasquez. "We have been unable
to find any mention of Tristan de Velazquez in the histories
of early Spanish explorations in the southeastern states. It
seems probable that the article quoted has confused the names
of Don Luis de Velasco and Don Tristan de Luna y Arellano.
Velasco, as viceroy of New Spain, sent out an expedition in
1559 under command of Luna y Arellano to establish a colony
in Florida. One of the latter's lieutenants appears to have
led an expedition into northeastern Alabama in 1560. Ac
cording to Charles C. Jones, in his ' Hernando de Soto, ' 1880,
Luna's expedition penetrated into the Valley river valley in
Georgia and there mined for gold, but this statement is ques
tioned by Woodbury Lowery in his 'Spanish settlements
within the present limits of the United States,' New York,
1901, p. 367. There appears to be no authority for the state
ment that this expedition entered the present limits of North
Carolina. A Spanish account of this expedition will be found
in Garcilasco de la Vega's 'La Florida del Inca, ' Lisbon,
1605." '
A brief history of early gold mining in the Southern states
may be found in George F. Becker's "Gold fields of the South
ern Appalachians, " in 16th annual report of the United States
Geological Survey, 1894-95. Some historical notes of interest
are given in Nitze and Wilkins' "Gold Mining in North Caro
lina," Raleigh, 1897. (North Carolina Geological Survey
Bulletin, No. 10.) 2
(552)

MINES AND MINING 553
"The Specimen" State. There are a great many kinds
of minerals in North Carolina, especially in the mountain
region. But, with few exceptions, the veins or deposits are
in small quantities — so small in fact as to have given the
State the title of the "Specimen State." Iron, copper, mica,
talc, kaolin, barytes, corundum, garnet, and lime, however,
have been found in paying quantities.
Ancient Diggings. In his "Speeches and Writings"
(p. 130) Gen. Clingman gives an account of his work at the
Sink Hole mines in Mitchell county in 1867. He thought
there was silver ore there and exhibited some of it to several
western miners in New York City, who declared it would
assay three hundred dollars to a ton; but it produced only
about three dollars. Gen. Clingman, however, had caused a
shaft to be sunk and two tunnels to be carried entirely below
the old excavations, but found nothing but mica. In the
same chapter he speaks of a tradition among the Indians that
long ago white men came on mules from the South during
the summer and carried off a white metal with them, and
thinks the remains of old works in Cherokee give countenance
to the report.
Sink Hole Mines. These are about seven miles south
west from Bakersville and two miles from Galax. From
present appearances it would seem that a large number of
men had been at work there for years. The mines are on a
ridge in front of D. Pinkney Chandler's home, and are from
sixty to eighty feet in diameter at the top. They extend
along a ridge for one-third of a mile. They seem to have been
a series of concentric holes, all of which have long since filled
up from the debris which had been removed from them. But,
standing with their roots on some of this waste originally
taken from these holes are several large trees nearly three
feet in diameter. "Timber," says Gen. Clingman, "which
I examined, that had grown on the earth thrown out, had been
growing as long as three hundred years." He speaks also of
"a slab of stone near one of these workings that had evi
dently been marked by blows of a metalic tool." But Mr.
Chandler, who has lived there and worked in the mines, thinks
the miners carried the waste from these holes on their heads
or shoulders, and dug downward only so long as the inclined,
cone-like sides would bear a narrow, spiral track used to remove

554 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
the earth. The walls are not perpendicular, but sloping,
making a hole in the shape of an inverted cone. The marks
of tools are still visible on these sloping sides when the dirt
that has fallen back is thrown out; for this earth that once
had been removed is still loose, and one can tell the moment
he gets outside the original excavation by the increased hard
ness of the ground. Stone tools five or six inches in length,
flattened, and two or three inches broad are still there, and
some have been found at the bottom of these holes. Mr.
Charles D. Stewart of Pinola dug out one of the highest of these
sink holes in 1872 to a depth of 42 feet, removing therefrom
a tree that had grown in the hole, with three hundred rings
in its trunk. He also got stone tools out of this hole. While
Gen. Clingman was at work there a tinner named Heap hap
pened in, and taking a block of the mica, which had been
thrown out as worthless, to Knoxville found that there was
a market for it, and returned with a partner named Clapp,
and these worked the mine profitably several years. William
Silver, about this time, ran a tunnel under this ridge seventeen
hundred feet to drain the mine on his land, which was about
halfway the length of the ridge. J. K. Irby and D. K. Young
also worked there. Others are working there- now, but get
ting only small returns. At the bottom of these mines the
ground is too hard for stone tools. Gen. Clingman also mined
for silver on Clingman's branch of Beech creek in 1871.
(Watauga County Deed Book No. 3, page 595.)
The Garrett Ray Mines. These are near Bakersville,
and when a boy Mr. Ray observed a line of stone posts about
fifteen feet apart on a mountain slope of his father's farm,
and years afterward found that they marked a valuable mica
mine, whose limits did not extend beyond them. They had
never been worked, though there were a series of round basin
like holes in the soil of the slope.
Ancient Mining in Clay County. On a ridge on the
left bank of Toonah creek, in Clay county, are many evidences
of early mining, the surface of the earth having been left in
many small but distinct ridges. Gold in small quantities is
found in the creek bed, and the character of the white quartz
rock and pebbles still tempts searchers after gold to pan and
wash the sand and gravel from the nearby hills. It has never
paid, however.

MINES AND MINING 555
Mica Mines in Ashe. Of the mica mines in Ashe county
the Director of the United States Geological Survey says
(1909) :
"Hamilton Mine is on the west slope of a mountain
two miles northwest of Beaver creek. It was reopened by the
Johnson-Hardin Company in 1907. Two tunnels were run into
the hillside along the vein." The character and quality of the
mica are stated.
The North Hardin mine is on a ridge about one and a half
miles west of Beaver creek and has been worked on a large
scale. It was operated by two open cuts and other pits, etc.,
which have proved the continuity of the pigmatite for over
100 yards and shown the thickness to vary from three to eight
feet. " The mica has a beautiful rum color and is of the best
grade." The South Hardin mine is near the top of a small moun
tain or hill about one and one-half miles southwest of Beaver
creek. " The color of the mica obtained was a clear rum color
and the quality the best." The quartz streaks along the foot
wall of the pigmatite contained beryl crystals from less than
an inch to six to eight inches in diameter.
Other Noted Mica Mines. There are other noted mica
mines in what was formerly Mitchell county, among them
being Clarissa, the Seeb Miller mine near Flat Rock, where
Ray and Anderson killed two men in a fight over the prop
erty in 1884, and the Deake mine, near Spruce Pine. There are
several mica mines in Yancey and Macon, from one of, the
latter, the Iotla Bridge kaolin and mica mine, a block of
mica was taken "in 1907, which measured about 29 by 36
inches across and was about four feet thick."3 There are
numerous other mica mines, in Jackson, Madison and Transyl
vania. In 1910 there were over 150 producers.
Uses for Mica. Mica is used in sheet and ground form-
sheet mica for stoves and lamps and for glazing, and it is also
punched into disks and washers or cut by shears for use in
stoves and electrical apparatus. Ground mica is used as an
insulating material in electrical machinery, wall paper, etc.
The value of the production of mica in North Carolina in
1910 was $230,460,4 as compared with $148,424 in 1909.
The average price of sheet mica in the United States in 1910
was 11.5 cents per pound, as compared with 12.9 in 1909; but

556 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
the average price of sheet mica in North Carolina was 42.5
per pound, by far the highest price paid.
"Among the many varieties of mica only two are considered of eco
nomic importance because of their physical properties; i. e., muscovite
and phlogopite. Of these two varieties muscovite alone is found in
quantities of commercial importance in North Carolina. Small quanti
ties of biotite mica (black mica) have been used for commercial purposes
within the last few years, however, and another variety, the lepidolite,
has been used as a source of lithium salts. Chemically, muscovite is a
silicate of aluminum and potash with a small amount of water; phlogo-
phite is a silicate of magnesium, aluminum and potassium; and piotite is
a silicate of magnesium, iron, aluminum, and potassium. The three
micas are very similar in physical properties except color."
Corundum and Emery. These minerals are found in Clay,
Macon, Swain, Jackson, Transylvania, Buncombe, Madison,
Yancey and Mitchell counties. The following facts are from
Vol. I of the N. C. Geological Survey, 1905, on Corundum and
the Periodites. It contains 464 pages and is devoted entirely
to this subject. It can be had by paying the postage. It
covers the ground fully.
Corundum was first discovered in Madison county in 1847,
about three miles below Marshall, at the mouth of Little
Pine creek. The late Dr. C. D. Smith of Franklin, discov
ered corundum on both sides of Buck creek in Clay county
prior to 1875, and Major Bryson did some prospecting there
in that year, followed two years later by Frank Meminger, who
worked six months and removed about 30 tons. In 1887 a Mr.
Ernst did some work at Buck creek, but from then till about
1891 the mine lay idle. About this time, however, Mr. Greg
ory Hart of Detroit, Mich., worked it on a larger scale for
about eighteen months. About 1893 the Hamden Emery and
Corundum Company purchased the mine and worked it to some
extent, sending the mined product to the Corundum Hill works
to be cleaned. It is now owned by the International Emery and
Corundum Company of New York. There is every indication of
an almost inexhaustible amount of corundum at this mine. It
is said to be too far from the nearest railroad point to justify
its operation. The completion of a short logging road from
Andrews to Chogah gap will considerably lessen this distance.
Just across the mountain, on the head of Shooting creek is the
Isbel mine and factory, where considerable work was done
about 1897-1898. It is now idle.

MINES AND MINING 557
Corundum Hill. Corundum Hill mine, seven miles from
Franklin on Cullasaja creek, was worked as early as 1871 by
the late Col. C. W. Jenks. From 1878 to 1900 from 200 to
300 tons of corundum were cleaned up there every year, since
which time only a small amount has been mined. It is owned
by the International Emery and Corundum Company of New
York. The late Dr. H. S. Lucas was active in mining these
minerals in Macon county for several years, and is credited
with having made money in the business. The Buck creek
and Corundum Hill mines are the most important as they have
been the most productive mines in the State.
Cranberry Ore Bank. "The Cranberry Ore Bank in Mitchell
[now Avery] is pronounced by Professor Kerr ' one of the most
remarkable iron deposits in America.' Its location is on the
western slope of Iron mountain, in the northwest part of the
county, about three miles from the Tennessee line. It takes
the name Cranberry from the creek which flows near the out
crop at the foot of the mountain. The surrounding and asso
ciated rocks are gneisses and gneissoids, hornblende, slate and
syenite. The ore is a pure, massive and coarse granular mag
netite. The steep slope of the mountain and ridges, which the
bed occupies, are covered with blocks of ore, some weighing
hundreds of pounds, and at places bare, vertical walls of mas
sive ore, 10 to 15 feet thick, are exposed, and over several
acres the solid ore is found everywhere near the surface. The
length of the outcrop is 1,500 feet, and the width 200 to 800
feet" (State Geological Report). It was worked in 1820 6
by the Dugger family. (See Chapter XVI, "Notable Cases
and Decisions," section headed "Carter v. Hoke.")
Cranberry's Antecedents. Dayton Hunter, Esq., a
lawyer of EUzabethton, Tenn., owns the land on which stood
the first iron works of Tennessee, a deed now in Jonesboro,
Term., calling in 1778 for Landon Carter's Forge Race. This
forge stood about 700 feet east of the present court house of
Carter county. This Landon Carter was the father of S. P.
Carter, who was both an admiral in the navy and a lieuten
ant general in the army of the United States. Dayton Hunter
married a daughter of Rev. W. B. Carter, a Presbyterian
minister and a noted Greek and Latin scholar. Whether
Charles Asher had anything to do with this forge is not known,
but on the 18th of December, 1795, he and his wife Molly

558 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
conveyed to Julius Dugger for seventy pounds, "current money
of Virginia," (Deed Book A, p. 178), 88% acres on the south
side of Watauga river, being part of a grant from North Caro
lina to said Charles Asher; and in May, 1802, John Asher con
veyed to the same Dugger 45 additional acres on the same
side of the same river (Deed Book C, p. 421). On the 20th of
November, 1822, John Asher (a son of Charles and Molly) con
veyed to WiUiam Dugger (Deed Book C, p. 577) one-fourth
of all the land on Watauga river, "including the Forge,"
beginning on a mulberry tree on the north side of the Forge
dam, and containing three acres and 54 poles, "which bar
gained land and one-fourth of the same, including the iron
works, with all appurtenances thereunto belonging, or in
anywise appertaining, with free privilege of roads for the
use of said iron works, together with the building or repair
ing timber for the use of said Forge, and free course for water
to said Iron Works," is the first reference on the records to
the old Dugger Forge, four miles above Butler, Tenn., on
the north side of Watauga river. This would also indicate,
what tradition preserves, that Asher was the original iron
master, and that he took the Duggers in with him. Joshua
Perkins, who is said to have built the Cranberry forge for
the Duggers, was a son of Jacob Perkins to whom on the 18th
of September, 1811, Richard White, of Washington county,
Va., conveyed, for $1,500, 250 acres on the north side of
Watauga river opposite the mouth of Elk creek, reserving to
himself a right of way over the land conveyed, "up the hollow,"
in order to avoid the jutting rock-cliff which formerly blocked
the passage of the road on the right bank. This is the time
that Richard White left for Missouri, according to the tradi
tion of that locality. So it would seem that Landon Carter
was the forefather of Cranberry Forge, that he was succeeded
by Charles and John Asher, and the Duggers, while Joshua
Perkins was the real builder of Cranberry Forge in 1820.
Magnetic City. Soon after the Civil War John L. Wilder
and associates started a forge on Big Rock creek, and a town,
which received the name of Magnetic City. But it was too
far at that time from a railroad, and the forge was abandoned.
The white houses around Magnetic City and the little valley
in which they are situated afford a pleasant surprise to the
traveler when he first catches a glimpse of them.

MINES AND MINING 559
The Davidson River Iron Works. Charles Moore,
grandfather of Judge Charles A. Moore of Asheville, James W.
Patton and Thomas Miller of Henderson county, many years
before the Civil War, made a contract with George Shuford, a
millwright, father of Judge George A. Shuford, to build a forge
or furnace and a mill on Davidson River, some of the iron ore
being hauled from Boylston creek, although some was brought
only three or four miles from a mine on the Boylston road.
The hammer used in connection with this iron forge or fur
nace was operated by water. These owners afterwards be
came incorporated as the Davidson River Iron Works. It
was in operation until after the commencement of the Civil
War, when the Confederate Government took charge of it and
operated it till its collapse. After the war it was reopened
and Judge Shuford remembers seeing from fifty to sixty hands
at work there as late as 1866. 6
The Sutton Forge. There was also another iron forge or
furnace on Mills river, known as the Sutton forge, because it
was owned by a man named Sutton. This, however, was not
on so large a scale as that on Davidson river.
Meredith Ballou, Pioneer Miner. From Mr. V. E.
Ballou of Grassy creek we learn that there are valuable iron
mines from eight to twelve miles from Jefferson and about
fifteen miles from Troutdale, Va., the nearest railroad sta
tion. 7 They were first discovered by Meredith Ballou, the
great-grandfather of V. E. Ballou who came to Ashe from
Virginia among the first settlers. These iron properties are
still owned principally by natives of Ashe county, among
whom are J., U. Ballou, Dr. Thos. J. Jones, the Gentry heirs,
B. Sturgill and J. U. Ballou. Napoleon B. Ballou was the
son of Meredith and the father of J. U. Ballou "who built
the first bloomery forge and made the first iron in the State,
which industry was carried on till about the year 1890 or
1891. Since that time there has been expended in Ashe
county some $275,000 or $300,000 in the way of purchase
money and development work. This work has proven that
there are large, well defined veins of ore of a superior quality
in this section of the State, but only one of these properties
has been transferred to any large capitalist." (See J. H.
Pratt's "Geological History of Western North Carolina,"
in Chapter XXIV of this history.)

560 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Iron Production. 8 The Cranberry Iron mine has pro
duced almost all the iron that has been produced in North
Carolina for years. It produces a pig iron of exceptional
quality, commanding a high price. It is magnetic, and the
crude ore is shipped to Knoxville for reduction. It has been
a constant producer for twenty-five years. Nearly one hun
dred years ago iron was made there by the old Bloomery
methods, and no better iron has since been made by any
method. Authentic Information. From "The Iron Manufactur
er's Guide" (1859, by J. P. Lesley), quoted by Prof. Joseph
Hyde Pratt in his "Geological History of Western North
Carolina," in the chapter preceding this in this history,
we get what is otherwise a matter of conjecture and doubt
as to the date and names of the different "bloomeries" and
iron works of this region. There is also a mass of valuable
information concerning other mines and mining by Prof. Pratt
in that article, to which reference is particularly invited.
Ore Knob Copper Mine of Ashe County. (Informa
tion by Messrs. John Dent and H. D. Baker.) About nine miles
east of Jefferson, is the Ore Knob Copper mine in Ashe county,
which was first opened and worked for iron by Meredith
Ballou, a Frenchman, many years ago. He mined the ore
and hauled it to his forge at the mouth of Helton creek, and
made wrought iron of it; but it was found to contain too much
copper and sulphur, coating up the tools with copper, and
was not so good as that from the North fork of the New river.
About four years before the Civil War a Virginia corporation,
known as the Buckhannon Company, operated Ore Knob
for copper, and hauled the richest ore to Wytheville, Va.,
sixty miles away, by wagons, drawn by shod oxen. These men
had bought it from Jesse Reeves, and after working the mine
a year or more, sold it to George S. Miller and associates, who,
after the Civil War, sold it to the Clayton Co., of Baltimore,
Md. This company, under the management of John Dent,
now a resident of Jefferson, developed the mine scientifically,
had the best of machinery installed, and established a smelter
at the mine. They began work about 1873 and continued
it till about 1877, when the price of copper declined. They
shipped the manufactured sheet copper to Baltimore, via
Marion, Va., and worked from 300 to 600 hands. Work seems

MINES AND MINING 561
to have continued in a smaller way till 1880, when it stopped
altogether, Mr. Dent leaving there in December, 1883. This
is the first place in North Carolina where copper was made
from the ore and refined up to the Lake Superior grade. The
ore was piled on burning wood heaps and burned from five to
to seven weeks, by which time most of the sulphur would
have been driven off, after which the roasted ore was smelted
with charcoal in shaft furnaces and refined down to 99J^ per
cent pure copper. The vein's general direction is northeast
and southwest, with nearly a vertical dip. Among the prin
cipal stockholders of the company were James E. and S. S.
Clayton and J. S. and Herman Williams. 9 The land in which
the mine lay had belonged to John W. Martin, who conveyed
his interest therein to the Clayton Company, the mineral
rights therein having been sold under execution at the court
house door and bought in by the same company. Work
was commenced on the 17th day of March, 1873. Some
suppose that this was a mere pocket; but its distance from a
railroad was probably the true reason of its abandonment.
There is an undeveloped copper mine on Gap creek, near the
line between Ashe and Watauga.
Elk Knob Copper Company. x ° In 1899 this company
entered into a contract with J. A. Zinns and Joseph Bock of
Minnesota for the operation of a copper mine on Elk Knob,
and bought the engine of Vassas Brothers, who had failed at
making pipes out of laurel roots in Boone, which business
they had started in 1897 in a building in the rear of Blackburn's
hotel. x 1 The copper mine was abandoned in a few years,
and litigation ensued between Zinns and Bock.
Cullowhee Copper Mine. This is in Jackson county,
where some copper was produced in 1909 and 1910; but it is
almost too far from a railroad to pay. It has a shaft 177
feet deep and a tunnel 4,000 feet in length.
Adams- Westfeldt Copper Mine. This is on Hazel creek
in Swain county; but the property has been in litigation since
1900. It is on the lead from Ducktown, and is said to be rich.
(See this case in Chapter XVI.)
Graphite. The Connally mine at Graphiteville, between
Round Knob and the Swannanoa tunnel is in McDowell
county. It was operated a few years prior to 1907, but, owing
to the difficulty of extracting the ore economically, it was
W. N. C— 36

562 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
abandoned. There is said to be an inexhaustible quantity
on the land.
Kaolin. Is obtained principally from Jackson, Mitchell
and Swain counties. Over $100,000 of this mineral has been
produced in this State in a year.
Amethyst has been found in Macon, especially on Tes-
sentee creek. The Connally mine on this creek has been
worked by the American Gem and Pearl Company of New York,
and the Rhodes mine by the Passmore Gem Company of
Boston. Talc and Pyrophylite Deposits. There are talc deposits
in Swain and Cherokee counties. A. A. Campbell of Cher
okee was the pioneer in this mining, having shipped it by
wagons before the days of railroads to Cleveland, Tennessee.
It was then $80 per ton, however. It was used as early as
1859 to line the copper furnaces at Ducktown, Tenn. The
principal talc mines are the North Carolina Talc and Mining
Company at Hewitts, Swain county ; the Alba Mineral
Company near Kinsey, Cherokee county ; the American
Talc Company, and the Glendon Mining and Manufactur
ing Company, at Glendon, Moore county. Hewitts mine is
the largest and best. Water interfered with the operation
some years ago, but that has since been remedied. There is also
a talc mine in Mitchell county, near Spruce Pine.
Barytes. Crude barytes has been produced in the vicinity
of Marshall, Stackhouse, Sandy Bottom and Hot Springs in
Madison county. This substance has been produced in this
county since 1884. The value of the product in 1910 was
$145,315. Owing to its weight, it is called "heavy spar."
There was a mill for crushing barytes at Warm Springs (now
Hot Springs) in August, 1884. (" On Horseback," page 139.)
Thulite was mined in North Carolina, in the Flat Rock
mine, in 1908. It furnishes attractive gems when cut en
cabochon with the enclosing feldspar.
Zircon was produced in 1909 from the Jones mine near
Zirconia, Henderson county, when operated by M. C. and C.
F. Toms. Two thousand pounds in 1909 was valued at $250.
Precious Stones. During 1908, 1909 and 1910 there was
little systematic mining for gems in this region.
Marble and Limestone. The main marble outcropping
begins on the Nantahala river below Hewitts and extends

MINES AND MINING 563
southward down to Valley river, a distance of over 25 miles.
A shorter and parallel band extends from the head of Peach-
tree creek nearly ten miles southwestward and up Little
Brasstown creek. The North Carolina Mining and Talc
Company are developing their marble deposits at Hewitts.
High freight rates prevent the development of this property.
The Casperis Marble Company. The Casperis Marble
Company is now operating marble quarries at Regal, a few
miles east of Murphy, and is supplying stone to several rail
roads. Mr. S. Casperis of Columbus, Ohio, is one of the
largest stone operators in the United States. An extensive
finishing plant employing about 50 men is operated in con
nection with the quarry. The quality of what this company
calls the "Regal Blue," now being quarried, is said to be
unexceled in the United States. The possibilities of marble
production near Andrews and Brasstown appear to be almost
limitless. Chasing Petroleum Rainbows. Notwithstanding the
opinion of scientists that "there is no petroleum to be found
in the area west of the Blue Ridge in North Carolina, as the
rocks were formed long before the period of time at which
those carrying petroleum were formed," in the year of grace
1902, in the county of Buncombe, and within two miles of
Asheville, W. A. Baird and wife and many others on Beaver
dam creek in Buncombe county, gave W. T. Sidell and E.
E. Stewart of West Virginia, leases to mine oil and gas for
one -eighth part of the oil and $200 a year for the use of all
the gas that might be discovered or produced. (Deed Book,
124, p. 73.)
Oil Excitement on Cove Creek. Soon after the Big
Freshet of May, 1901, indications of oil appeared near N. L.
Mast's store on Cove creek, Watauga county; and A. J.
McBride, a reputable citizen, collected the oily film on top of
a pool of water by absorbing it with blotting paper. This
burned brilliantly; and in July, 1902, W. R. Lovill, Esq., a
lawyer of Boone, obtained options on the lands of J. T. Combs
and members of his family, B. F. Bingham, T. B. Fletcher and
others, for one year. Mr. Lovill interested Gen. J. S. Carr of
Durham in the matter, and the latter sent Major Hamlet of
Roanoke to investigate. The flat formation of the rock strata
indicates unmistakably the presence of oil, but the ancient

564 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
character of the rocks contradicted these indications, they
being gneiss of the oldest character. But, during the year
1907, the Carolina Valley Oil and Gas Company, composed
of men from New York and Pennsylvania, put down a hole
near N. L. Mast's store 800 feet deep, and then abandoned
the work, claiming that the drill had begun to take a slant
ing course. This company had a map prepared which indi
cated that there is oil in many places in Watauga and Avery
counties. It is certain that the formation of the rock strata
along the lower part of Cove creek and below its entrance
into Watauga river is as nearly flat as it is possible to be.
Oil leases were also taken on lands around Sutherland, Ashe
county. Age of Our Rock Formation. From Professor Pratt's
Geological History of Western North Carolina, Chapter XXIV,
in this work, it is clear that "all the rocks of Western North
Carolina are amongst the oldest geologic formations," from
which we may conclude that we are occupying land that is
more ancient than that of the Euphrates, the Nile, or the
Jordan, so long associated in our minds with the Garden of
Eden, the Ptolemys and Old Testament stories.
High Honor for Our Native Gems. In the "Carolina
Mountains" we learn that the finest specimens of emerald
green crystalized corundum in the world, measuring 4J4x2x
V/2 inches, is now in the Morgan-Bemet collection in New York.
It was taken from Corundum Hill, near Franklin, in 1871.
From Cowee creek comes the new gem Rhodolite, "remark
able for its transparency and great brilliancy (p. 268)," large
sea-blue aquamarines, and beryls, both sea-green and yel
low, tourmalines, purple amethyst, discovered on Tessen-
tee creek by a landslide, and "smoky and citron-green
quartz crystals in the Black mountains, . . . from
which have been cut many beautiful objects by the
Tiffany lapidaries of New York" (p. 272). Salmon-pink
chalcedony, agates, green chrysoprase and red and yellow jas
per, also are mentioned. North Carolina minerals "are treas
ured in the greatest collections in the world, in this country
very fine ones being on exhibition in the Metropolitan Mu
seum of Art and the American Museum of Natural History
(N. Y.), in the U. S. National Museum at Washington, D. C,
in the Field Columbian Museum, Chicago, as well as many
smaller museums."

MINES AND MINING 565

Value op Mineral Production in Following Counties. ' 2
County 1909 1910
Alleghany  $ 400 $ 500
Ashe  155 500
Buncombe  82,844 64,505
Cherokee  31 ,283 22,325
Clay 
Graham  
Haywood  1,550 7,075
Henderson  99,480 60,882
Jackson  51,599 53,804
Macon  45,732 50,300
Madison  21,785 20,224
Mitchell  191,777 259, 127
Swain  99,564 80,983
Transylvania  7,337 6,771
Watauga and Wayne  46,338 59,810
Yancey  32,660 59,284
NOTES.
lH. H. B. Meyer, Chief Bibliographer Congressional Library, to J. P. A., January 16,
1912. "Ibid. 3Economic Paper No. 23, N. C. Geo. and Econ. Survey, 1911.
'Ibid.'From "The Iron Manufacturer's Guide," 1859, by J. P. Lesley.
BNot mentioned in "The Iron Manufacturer's Guide," 1859, by J. P. Lesley.
7Harbard's Bloomery Forge at the mouth of Holton creek was built in 1807, and washed
away in 1817; "Iron Manufacturer's Guide," 1859.
'Economic Paper No. 23, N. C. G. and E. Survey, 1911, p. 30.
•The Ore Knob Mining Co. was incorporated by Ch. 29, Pr. Laws of N. C, 1881, John
S. Williams, Washington Booth, James E. Tyson and others of Baltimore and James E.
Clayton and others of Ashe incorporators.
r°Deed Book V, Watauga, p. 238.
"Ibid, T, p. 472.
12From 25th Annual Report of the Department of Labor, 1911.

CHAPTER XXVI
THE CHEROKEES
The Origin of the Indians. William Penn saw a strik
ing likeness between the Jews of London and the American
Indians. Some claim that the stories of the Old Testament
are legends in some Indian tribes. In the Jewish Encyclo
pedia it is said that the Hebrews, after the captivity, separated
themselves from the heathen in order to observe their peculiar
laws; and Manasseh Ben Israel claims that America and
India were once joined, at Bering strait, by a peninsula, over
which these Hebrews came to America. All Indian legends
affirm that they came from the northwest. When first visited
by Europeans, Indians were very religious, worshiping one Great
Spirit, but never bowing down to idols. Their name for the deity
was Ale, the old Hebrew name for God. In their dances they
said "Hallelujah" distinctly. They had annual festivals, per
formed morning and evening sacrifices, offered their first fruits
to God, practiced circumcision, and there were "cities of
refuge," to which offenders might fly and be safe; they reck
oned time as did the Hebrews, similar superstitions mark
their burial places "and the same creeds were the rule of their
lives, both as to the present and the future." They had
chief-ruled tribes, and forms of government almost identical
with those of the Hebrews. Each tribe had a totem, usually
some animal, as had the Israelites, and this explains why,
in the blessing of Jacob upon his sons, Judah is surnamed a
lion, Dan a serpent, Benjamin a wolf, and Joseph a bough. !
There are also resemblances in their language to the Latin
and Greek tongues, Chickamauga meaning the field of death,
and Aquone the sound of water.
The Cherokees a Superior Tribe. 2 They have been
known as one of the largest and most noteworthy of the abo
riginal tribes, and formed an important factor in both English
and Spanish pioneering. Those who dwelt in the mountains
were known as the Otari or Overhill Cherokees, while those
dwelling in the lowlands were called the Erati3 or Low
land Cherokees. They had their own national govern
ment, and numbered from 20,000 to 25,000 persons. They
(566)

THE CHEROKEES 567

are "well advanced along the white man's road." What is
now known as the Eastern band, in the heart of the Carolina
mountains, outnumbers today such well-known Western tribes
as the Omaha, Pawnee, Comanche and Kiowas, and it is among
these, "the old conservative Kituhwa element, that the
ancient things have been preserved." In the forests of Nan
tahala and Oconaluftee, "the Cherokee priest still treasures
the legends and repeats the mystic rituals" of his ancestors.
The original boundary embraced about 40,000 square miles,
from the head streams of the Kanawha to Atlanta, and from
the Blue Ridge to the Cumberland range, with Itsati, or
Echota, on the south bank of the Little Tennessee river, a few
miles above the mouth of Tellico creek, in Tennessee, as its
capital. This was called the "City of Refuge." They call
themselves the Yunwiga, or real people, and on ceremonial
occasions speak of themselves as Ani-Kituhwagi, or people
of Kituhwa, an ancient settlement on the Tuckaseegee river,
and apparently the original nucleus of the tribe. The name
by which they are now known — Cherokee — has no meaning
in their language, and the form among them is Tsalagi or
Tsargi. It first appears as Chalaque in the Portugese nar
rative of DeSoto's expedition, while Cheraqui appears in a
French document in 1699. It got its present form in 1708,
thus having an authentic history at this time (1913) of 275
years. They admit that they built the mounds on Grave
creek in Ohio, and the mounds near Charlottesville, Va.
They had also lived at the Peaks of Otter, Va. But they
disclaim all knowledge of the mounds and petroglyphs in
North Carolina, Tennessee and Georgia.
Traditions of White and Lilliputian Races. There
is a dim but persistent tradition of a white race having pre
ceded the Cherokees ; and of a tribe of Lilliputians or very
small people, who once lived on the site of the ancient mound
on the northern side of Hiwassee river, at the mouth of Peach-
tree creek, and afterwards went west. This was long before
the normal sized whites came. Miss Murphrey has preserved
this tradition in her "In the Stranger Peoples' Country."
Introduction of Small Arms and Smallpox. About
1700 the first guns were introduced among the Cherokees,
and in 1738 or 1739 smallpox nearly exterminated the tribe
within a single year. It had been brought to Charleston,
S. C, on a slave ship.

568 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Other Early Incidents. About 1740 a trading path
from Augusta to the Cherokee towns at the head of the Savan
nah, and thence to the west was marked out by this tribe,
and in that year the Cherokees took part under their war
chief, "The Raven," in Oglethorpe's expedition against the
Spaniards at St. Augustine. In 1736 Christian Priber, a Jesuit,
acting in French interest, became influential among them.
He was a most worthy member of that illustrious order whose
scholarship, devotion and courage have been exemplified
from the days of Jogues and Marquette down to DeSmet
and Mengarini. In 1756 Fort Prince George was built at
the head of the Savannah, and Fort Loudon near the junction
of Tellico creek and the Little Tennessee river, beyond the
mountains. Disagreements between the Cherokees and the
South Carolina colonists finally resulted in the seizure of Ocon-
ostota, a young war chief, and his retention at Fort Prince
George as a hostage. This led to war, and the Cherokees
besieged Fort Loudon. In June, 1760, Col. Montgomery,
with 1,600 men, crossed the Indian frontier and drove the
Cherokees from about Fort Prince George, and then de
stroyed every one of the Lower Cherokee towns, killing more
than a hundred Indians and driving the whole population
into the mountains. He then crossed the mountains without
opposition till he came near Echoe, a few miles above the
sacred town of Kikwasi, now Franklin, N. C, where he met
their full force, which compelled Montgomery to retire in a
battle fought June 27, 1760. He retreated to Fort Prince
George after losing 100 men in killed and wounded.
Massacre at Fort Loudon. This retreat sealed the fate
of the garrison at Fort Loudon, which had been reduced to
the necessity of eating horses and dogs, though Indian women,
who had found sweethearts among the soldiers, brought them
what food they could. On August 8, Capt. Demere surren
dered his garrison of about 200 to Oconostota upon promise
that they should be allowed to retire with sufficient arms
and ammunition for the march. The garrison made a day's
march up Tellico creek and camped, while the Cherokees
plundered the fort. It was then that they discovered ten
bags of powder and a large quantity of ball that the garrison
had secretly buried in the fort before surrendering. Cannon
and small arms also had been thrown into the river, which

THE CHEROKEES 569
was a breach of the terms of the capitulation. Enraged at
this duplicity the Indians attacked the retiring garrison at sun
rise the next morning, killing Demere and 25 others at the first
fire, and taking the rest prisoners, to be ransomed some time
later on. Capt. Stuart, second in command, was claimed by
Ata-kullakulla, a Cherokee chief, who managed to conduct
him, after nine days' march, to his friends in Virginia. A treaty
was concluded at Augusta, November 10, 1763, by which the
Cherokees lost all north of the present Tennessee line and
east of the Blue Ridge and Savannah. A royal proclama
tion was issued this year barring the whites from occupying
Indian lands west of the Blue Ridge; while in 1768 a treaty
fixed the northern limit as downward along the New and
Kanawha rivers from the North Carolina line. This treaty
was made at Hard Labor, S. C; while on March 17, 1775, a
treaty cut off the Cherokees from the Ohio and their rich
Kentucky hunting grounds.
Three States Combine Against the Cherokees. But
the constant encroachments of the whites upon the Indian
territory resulted, in 1776, in an agreement between Virginia,
North and South Carolina by which each sent a punitive
expedition into the Cherokee country, and laid it waste for
miles, killing men and even women, and driving many into
the mountains for refuge. In August Gen. Griffith Ruther
ford, with 2,400 men, crossed Swannanoa gap, and after fol
lowing the present line of railroad to the French Broad, out
Hominy creek and following up the Richland, struck the first
Indian town at Stecoee, the present site of Whittier, on the Tuck
aseegee. This he burned, and then destroyed all towns on
Oconaluftee, Tuckaseegee and the upper part of Little Ten
nessee; also those on the Hiwassee below the junction of Val
ley river, making 36 towns in all. He also destroyed all
crops. The chaplain of this expedition was Rev. James
Hall, D. D., a Presbyterian. At Sugartown (Kuletsiyi), east
of the present Franklin, a detachment sent to destroy it was
surprised by the Cherokees and escaped only through the
aid of another force sent to its rescue. Rutherford himself
encountered a force in Wayah gap of the Nantahalas, between
Franklin and Aquone, where he lost forty killed and wounded,
but finally repulsing the Indians. 4 An Indian killed in this
fight proved to have been a woman dressed as a man. An

570 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
account of the route followed by Rutherford, with many other
facts, can be found in the North Carolina Booklet, Vol. IV, No.
8, for December, 1904; from which it appears that William
son of South Carolina was to have joined Rutherford at Co wee,
but as he did not appear, Rutherford, without a proper guide,
crossed the Nantahalas at an unusual place, thus missing
the Wayah gap, where 500 braves had assembled to oppose
him and that two days later Williamson, hurrying up Car-
toogachaye creek, crossed at the usual place, and fell into
the ambush which had been prepared for Rutherford; and that
Rutherford lost but three men in the entire expedition. This
latter account is probably the true one. Williamson joined
Rutherford on the Hiwassee. It was considered unnecessary
to await the arrival of Col. Christian from Virginia, who was
coming via the Holston river, as all the Cherokee towns had
been destroyed. Col. Andrew Williamson's force of South
Carolinians was 1,860 strong, including a number of Catawbas,
and came through Rabun gap of the Blue Ridge. 6 It was
near Murphy that Rutherford and Williamson's forces joined
September 26, 1776. Among Christian's men was a regiment
from Surry county, N. C, under Colonels Joseph Williams and
Love, and Major Winston. They had assembled on the Hol
ston and pressed cautiously along the great warpath to the
crossing of the French Broad in Tennessee, and thence advanced
without opposition to the Little Tennessee, where, early in No
vember, Christian was proceeding to destroy their towns, when
the Indians sought peace. Col. Christian, hoping to draw
trade from the South Carolina Indians, accepted the promise
of the Cherokees to "surrender all their prisoners and to
cede all the disputed territory ... in the Tennessee
settlements," suspended hostilities and withdrew, but not
till he had burned the town of Tuckaseegee because its in
habitants had been concerned in the burning of a white boy,
named Moore, who had been captured with a Mrs. Bean;
but he spared the peace town of Echota. But Col. Williams
of Surry was not pleased with Christian's leniency, and on the
22d of November, 1776, wrote to the North Carolina Con
gress from Surry, enclosing documents which he claimed
proved conclusively "that some of the Virginia gentlemen
are desirious of having the Cherokees under their protection, "
which Williams did not think right as most of the territory

THE CHEROKEES 571

was within North Carolina and should be under her pro
tection. In this warfare every Indian was scalped and even
women were shot down and afterwards "helped to their end."
Prisoners were "taken and put up at auction as slaves, when
not killed on the spot."
Holston and Hopewell Treaties. At Long Island of
the Holston a treaty was concluded July 20, 1777, by which
the Middle and Upper Cherokees ceded everything east of
the Blue Ridge, and all disputed territory on the Watauga,
NoUechucky, upper Holston and New rivers. This ended
the treaties with the separate States. The first treaty made
with the United States was at Hopewell, S. C, November
28, 1785, by which the whole country east of the Blue Ridge,
with the Watauga and Cumberland settlements, was given
to the whites, but leaving the whole of western North Carolina
to the Cherokees.
Treaties of White's Fort and Tellico. In the summer
of 1791 the Cherokees made a treaty at White's Fort, now
Knoxville, by which they ceded a "triangular section of Ten
nessee and North Carolina extending from the Clinch river
almost to the Blue Ridge, and including nearly the whole
of the French Broad and lower Holston and the sites of the
present Knoxville, and Greeneville, Tenn., and Asheville, N. C,
most of which territory was already occupied by the whites.
Permission was also given for a road from the eastern set
tlements to those of the Cumberland, with free navigation
of the Tennessee river." This treaty was signed by 41 prin
cipal chiefs and was concluded July 2, 1791, and probably
gave legal title to the whites to as far west of the Blue Ridge
as the Pigeon river in Haywood county. There were four
treaties of Tellico, the first having been signed October 2, 1798,
by 39 chiefs, by which were ceded a tract between the Clinch river
and the Cumberland ridge, another along the northern bank
of the Little Tennessee, extending up to the Chilhowie moun
tains, and a third in North Carolina on the head of the French
Broad and Pigeon rivers, and including what are now Waynes
ville and Hendersonville; thus making the Balsam mountains
the western boundary. In 1804 and 1805, three additional
treaties were concluded at Tellico by Return J. Meigs, by
which the Cherokees were shorn of 8,000 square miles, not
affecting the limits of North Carolina; but it was then that

572 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Meigs originated what he termed a "silent consideration,"
by which a smaller amount was named in the public treaty,
to-wit: $2,000 — while he had agreed that "one thousand
dollars and some rifles" in addition should be given to some
of the chiefs who signed it. This treaty however was con
cluded at Washington, D. C, January 7, 1806. In 1813 the
Cherokees agreed that a company should lay off and build a
free public road from the Tennessee river to the head of nav
igation of the Tuggaloo branch of the Savannah; and this
road was completed within the next three years, and became
the great highway from the coast to the Tennessee settle
ments. The road began where Toccoa creek enters the Sa
vannah, and passed through Clarksville and Hiwassee in
Georgia, and Hayesville and Murphy, N. C, though those
towns had not been established by the whites at that time.
From Murphy it passed over the Unaka or White mountains
into Tennessee to Echota, the capital town of the Cherokees. It
was officially styled the Unicoi Turnpike, but was commonly
known in North CaroUna as theWachese or Watsisa trail.because
it passed near the home of a noted Indian who lived near the place
at which it crossed Beaverdam creek — his name having been
Watsisa — and because this portion of the road followed the old
trail which already bore that name.
Nanakatahke and Junaluska. The former was a sister
of Yonaguska, and the mother-in-law of Gid. F. Morris, a
South Carolinian who came to Cherokee county about the
same time that Betty Bly or Blythe, came there, according
to the statement of the late Col. A. T. Davidson, who said
that Nanakatahke told him that she was the mother of Wac-
hesa, or Grass-hopper. Junaluska, spelled Tsunulahunski
in Cherokee, is the best remembered of the Cherokee chiefs,
of whom a full account will be found in Chapter XII, pp.
292-293. The Removal Treaties. On the 8th of July, 1817, at the
Cherokee agency (now Calhoun, Tenn.), a treaty was made by
which, in return for land in Georgia and Tennessee, the Chero
kees were to receive a tract within the present limits of Arkansas,
and payment for any substantial improvements they had made
on the ceded lands they would abandon by going to Arkansas.
Each warrior who left no improvements behind was to be
given for his abandoned field and hut a rifle, ammunition, a

THE CHEROKEES 573
blanket, a kettle or a beaver trap. Boats and provisions
for the journey were also to be furnished the Indians who
might go. It was also provided that those who chose to
remain might do so and become citizens, the amount of land
occupied by such to be deducted from the total cession. But
the majority of the Cherokees opposed removal bitterly, and
only 31 of the principal men of the eastern band and 15 of
the western signed for the tribe. A protest signed by
67 chiefs and headsmen was presented to the commissioners
for the government; but it was ignored and the treaty ratified.
In fact, the authorities for the United States did not even
wait for the ratification, but at once took steps for the removal
of all who desired to go west, and before 1819, six thousand
had been removed, according to the estimate. This, how
ever, did not effect North Carolina territory; but on February
27, 1819, a treaty was made at Washington by which the
Indians ceded to the United States, among other tracts in
Alabama, Tennessee and Georgia, "nearly everything remain
ing to them" in North Carolina east of the Nantahala moun
tains; though individual reservations one mile square within
the ceded area were allowed a number of families, who pre
ferred to remain and become citizens. In order to conform
to the laws of civilization, those who were to remain adopted
a regular republican form of government modeled after that
of the United States, with New Echota, a few miles above
the present Calhoun, Ga., as the capital. John Ross was
the first Cherokee president. They passed laws for the col
lection of taxes, and debts, for repairs of roads, for the support
of schools and for the regulation of the liquor traffic; to punish
horse stealing and theft, and to compel all marriages between
white men and Indian women to be celebrated according to
regular legal or church form, and to discourage polygamy.
By a special decree the right of Blood Revenge, or capital
punishment, was taken from the seven clans and vested in
the authorities of the Indian nation. Death was the pun
ishment to individual Indians who might sell lands to the
whites without the consent of the Indian authorities. White
men were not allowed to vote or hold office in the nation.
Yonaguska, the Blood Avenger. The late Col. Allen
T. Davidson told the writer that John Welch, a half-breed
Frenchman, killed Leech, a full-blooded Cherokee, near old

574 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Valleytown in Cherokee county, and as Yonaguska was
Leech's next of kin, he was therefore his blood avenger, and
not only entitled to kill Welch, but the custom of the tribe
made it his duty to do so. He, therefore, followed Welch
first to the Smoky mountains, and then to Paint Rock; thence
to the New Found range west of Asheville, and to Pickens,
S. C, where Welch stopped and rested. Here it was, though,
that Welch became infatuated with a white girl named Betty
Bly, and told Betty that he feared that Yonaguska, whom
he had seen loitering near, was seeking a chance to kill him.
She then sought out Yonaguska and persuaded him to let
Welch off.
The Baptists Establish the First Cherokee Mission.
In 1820 the Baptists founded five principal missions, one of
which was in Cherokee county, on the site of the old Nachez
town on the north side of Hiwassee river, just above the mouth
of Peachtree creek. It was established at the instance of
Currahee Dick, a prominent mixed -blood chief, and was
placed in charge of the Rev. Evan Jones, known as the trans
lator of the New Testament into the Cherokee language,
with James D. Wafford, a mixed-blood pupil, who compiled
a spelling book in the same language, as his assistant. The
late Rev. Humphrey Posey afterwards became principal of
this mission, and did a wonderful amount of work for the
improvement and education of the Cherokees. The place is
still known as "The Mission Farm," and is one of the most
productive and desirable in the mountains. Worcester and
Boudinot's translation of Matthew, first published at New
Echota, Ga., in 1829, was introduced to the Kituwas Chero
kees, and in the absence of missionaries, was read from house
to house, after which Rev. Ulrich Keener, a Methodist,
began to preach at irregular intervals, and was soon followed
by Baptists.
Sequoya and His Syllabary. About this time (1821)
Sikwayi (Sequoya) a half or quarter breed Cherokee, known
among the whites as George Gist or Guest or Guess, invented
the Cherokee syllabary or .alphabet, which was "soon recog
nized as an invaluable invention for the elevation of the tribe,
and within a few months thousands of hitherto illiterate
Cherokees were able to read and write their own language,
teaching each other in the cabins and along the roadside.

THE CHEROKEES 575
It had an immediate and wonderful effect on Chero
kee development, and on account of the remarkable adaptation
of the syllabary to the language, it was only necessary to learn
the characters to be able to read at once. ... In the
fall of 1824 Atsi or John Arch, a young native convert, made
a manuscript translation of a portion of St. John's gospel, in
the syllabary, this being the first Bible translation ever given
to the Cherokee." On the 21st of February, 1828, "the
first number of the newspaper Taslagi Tsulehisanun, the
Cherokee Phoenix, 'printed' in English and Cherokee, was pub
lished at New Echota from type cast for that purpose in Bos
ton under the supervision of the noted missionary, Worces
ter. Sequoya was born, probably about 1760 at Luck-a-See-
gee town in Tennessee, just outside of old Fort Loudon, near
where old Choto had stood." Here his mind dwelt also on
the old tradition of a lost band of Cherokee living somewhere
toward the western mountains. In 1841 and 1842, with a
few Cherokee companions and with his provisions and papers
loaded in an ox cart, he made several journeys into the west, and
was received everywhere with kindness by even the wildest tribes.
Disappointed in his philologic results, he started out in 1843
in quest of the lost Cherokees, who were believed to be some
where in northern Mexico, but, being now an old man and
worn out by hardship, he sank under the effort and died alone
and unattended, it is said, near the village of San Fernando,
Mexico, in August of that year. The Cherokees had voted
him a pension of three hundred dollars which was continued
to his widow, "the only literary pension in the United States."
The great trees of California {Sequoia gigantea) were named in
his honor and preserve his memory.
Outrages Follow Dahlonega Gold Discovery. The
discovery of gold in the Dahlonega district caused the Georgia
legislature on the 20th of December, 1828, to annex that part
of the Cherokee country to Georgia and to annul all Cherokee
laws and customs therein. This act was to take effect June
1, 1830, the land was mapped into counties and divided into
"land lots" of 160 acres and "gold lots" of 40 acres, which
were to be distributed among the white citizens of Georgia by
public lottery. Provision was made for the settlement of
contested lottery claims among the white citizens, but no
Indian could bring a suit or testify in court. "About the

576 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
same time the Cherokees were forbidden to hold councils, or
to assemble for any public purpose or to dig for gold upon
their own lands. " The outrages which followed are disgrace
ful to the white men of that section and time.
Treaty of Removal of 1835. On the 29th of December,
1835, by the treaty of New Echota, "the Cherokee nation
ceded to the United States its whole remaining territory east
of the Mississippi for the sum of $5,000,000 and a common
joint interest in the territory already occupied by the western
Cherokees in what is now the Indian Territory, with an addi
tional smaller tract on the northeast in what is now Kansas.
Improvements were to be paid for, and the Indians were to
be removed at the expense of the United States, and sub
sisted for one year after their arrival in the new country.
The removal was to take place within two years. . . ." It was
also distinctly agreed that a limited number of Cherokees
might remain behind and become citizens after they had been
adjudged "qualified or calculated to become useful citizens,"
together with a few who held individual reservations under
former treaties. But this provision was struck out by Presi
dent Jackson, who insisted that the "whole Cherokee people
should remove together." The treaty was ratified by the
senate May 23, 1836, the official census of 1835 having fixed
the number of Cherokees in North Carolina at 3,644.
The Pathetic Story of the Removal. This story ex
ceeds in weight of grief and pathos any in American history;
for notwithstanding that nearly 16,000 out of a total of 16,-
542 Indians in North Carolina, Tennessee, Georgia and Ala
bama, had signed a protest against the treaty, Gen. Wool
was sent to carry the treaty into effect; but so fixed was the
determination of the Cherokees to remain that Gen. Win
field Scott was sent to remove them by force. He took com
mand, his forces amounting to 7,000 men — regulars, militia
and volunteers, with New Echota as his headquarters, May
10, 1838, only 2,000 Cherokees having gone voluntarily. Old
people tell of the harrowing scenes which accompanied the
hunting down and removal of these brave people who clung
to their homes with all the passion of the Swiss.
Removal Forts. The following forts or stockades were
built for the collection of the unwilling Cherokees : Fort
Lindsay, on the south side of the Little Tennessee at the

THE CHEROKEES 577

junction of the Nantahala; Fort Scott, at Aquone, twenty
miles further up the Nantahala; Fort Montgomery, at what
is now Robbinsville; Fort Hembrie, at what is now Hayes
ville; Fort Delaney, at Old Valleytown, and Fort Butler, at
Murphy. Why Some Were Allowed to Remain. Old man Tsali, or
Charley, with his wife, his brother and his three sons and
their families, was seized and taken to a stockade near the
junction of the Tuckaseegee and the Little Tennessee rivers,
where they spent the night, during which their squaws con
cealed knives and tomahawks about their clothing. When
this band, escorted by soldiers, reached the mouth of
what is now called Paine's branch, opposite Tuskeegee
creek, in the Little Tennessee, the squaws passed the
knives and hatchets to the men, and they fell upon
the soldiers and killed two of them upon the spot,
and so mortally wounded a third, Geddings by name, that
he died at Calhoun, Tenn. Still another soldier was struck
on the back of his head with a tomahawk, and so hurt that
although he retained his seat upon his horse, he died three
miles below at what is now called Fairfax, on the right bank
of the Little Tennessee. Two stones still mark his grave,
while the two who were killed at Paine's branch were buried
there. If the skirts of the coat of the lieutenant in charge
had not torn away when he was seized on each side by
an Indian, it is likely that he would have been dragged from
his horse and killed, too. But he escaped, and the Indians
went immediately to the Great Smoky mountains scarcely ten
miles away, and their recapture by the heavy dragoons sent
after them within a short time was impossible. These sol
diers camped just below where Burton Welch used to live,
one and a half miles below Bushnel, and a mountain peak
nearby on which they stationed sentinels, is still called Watch
Mountain. In fact, these escaping Indians had spent the
night at the house of Burton Welch's father when their
squaws hid the weapons in their skirts. It is said that the
late Col. W. H. Thomas had accompanied this party as far
as the mouth of Noland 's creek, where he left them for the
purpose of getting another small party to join them the next
day; and that if he had continued with Old Charley's party
it is probable that no attempt would have been made to
W. N. C— 37

578 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
escape, such was his influence over them. The names of
the male Indians who escaped were Charley, Alonzo, Jake,
George and a boy named Washington, but pronounced by
the Cherokees Wasituna. Old Charley's squaw was named
Nancy. Terms of Compromise, Mr. James Mooney's account
in the Nineteenth Ethnological report states that after Gen.
Scott became convinced that his soldiers could not recapture
Old Charley and his band, he made an agreement with Col.
Thomas to the effect that if he would cause the arrest of Old
Charley and his adult sons he would use his influence at Wash
ington to get permission that all who had not yet been removed
should remain. Also, that Col. Thomas went to the leader
of those who had not been captured, Utsala or "Lichen," by
name, who had made his headquarters at the head of Ocona
luftee, and told him that if he assisted in bringing in Charley
and his band, Utsali and his followers, 1,000 in number,
would be allowed to remain. Utsali consented and Thomas
returned and reported to Gen. Scott, who offered to furnish
an escort for Thomas on a proposed visit to Charley, who
was hiding in a cave of the Great Smoky mountains. But
Thomas declined the escort and went alone to the cave and
got Charley to consent to surrender voluntarily, which he
did shortly afterwards, thus making a vicarious sacrifice for
the rest of his people.
An Eye Witnesses' Account. But Mr. and Mrs. Burton
Welch used to tell an altogether different story. They were
living there at the time, and presumably knew much more
than those who got their information at second hand sixty
years later. Their account is that Utsali and his followers
ran Old Charley and his sons down and brought them to Gen.
Scott's soldiers; but insisted on killing them themselves instead
of having them shot by the soldiers. But they had not been
captured together, Alonzo, Jake and George having been
caught first at the head of Forney's creek, and shot at a point
on the right bank of the Little Tennessee nearly opposite
the mouth of Panther creek, and just below Burton Welch's
home, where Jake gave a soldier ten cents to give to his squaw,
that being all he had on earth to leave her. The three trees
to which they were tied are now dead, but Burton Welch,
who when a boy witnessed the execution, used to declare that

THE CHEROKEES 579

these trees never grew any larger after having been made to
serve as stakes for the shedding of human blood. These
three Indians are buried in one grave near by, but there is
now nothing to mark the spot.
Old Charley Is Killed and His Squaw Mourns. It
was some time afterwards that Old Charley was caught in
the Smokies, brought to within a short distance below what
is now Bryson City and shot by Indians. Mrs. Welch, who
was a first cousin of Captain James P. Sawyer of Asheville,
saw Old Charley killed. This was before her marriage to Bur
ton Welch, and she remembers that Charley had a white cloth
tied around his forehead, and that she saw it stain red before
she heard the report of the guns of the firing squad. The
fugitive squaws were never punished. But Charley's squaw
came to Mrs. Welch's father's house, where she was shown
Old Charley's grave. She sat down beside it and piled up the
sand with her hands until she made a mound, and then rocked
herself to and fro and cried. Mrs. Welch went shortly after
wards to Old Charley's former home, one mile from the mouth
of the Nantahala river. She spoke of the deserted look of
the place, the little cabin with its open door, and old Nancy's
spinning-wheel, her loom and warping bars, while outside, in
the chimney corner, was Old Charley's plough-stock and
harness, the traces of which had been made of hickory bark.
Did the Government Wink at this Compromise? As
it seemed exceedingly improbable that the government would
deliberately violate the terms of a treaty that had been sol
emnly made with the Cherokees without the approval of the
Senate, and allow a thousand Cherokees to remain behind,
especially after General Jackson had emphatically refused
to allow any of them to remain on any terms, the Commissioner
of Indian Affairs was asked for any official information that
might be on file in his office concerning this matter, with this
result: "It is true that by supplemental articles of agree
ment pre-emption rights and reservations provided for the
Cherokees who remained east of the Mississippi were relin
quished and declared void. (See 7 Stat. L, 488) However,
many of the Indians did remain east of the Mississippi and
the Act of July 29, 1848, (9 Stat. L., 264) provided for the set
ting aside of a fund for these Indians, the interest of which
was to be paid them annually until their removal west of the

580 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Mississippi, when the principal was to be paid them." This
letter is dated January 29, 1913, and was supplemental to
another of January 21, 1913, in which this language is used:
"You are advised that nothing has been found in the files
of this office regarding the alleged agreement of General Scott
to allow part of the Cherokees to remain in North Carolina
on condition that they surrender Old Charlie and his sons."
Again, on February 27, 1913, he wrote: "I have of course
no objection to your quoting all or any part of office letters
to you on this subject. As to your following these letters
with the quotation given in your letter, I would rather not
express an opinion, since I had a search of the records made
and found nothing about the alleged agreement to allow
certain of the Cherokees to remain east of the Mississippi.
I would not be warranted in saying that such an agreement
was not made, since there were many things .happening in the
Indian country about that period of which this office has no
record." Recognition of the Rights of the Eastern Band. On
August 6, 1846, a treaty was concluded at Washington by
which the rights of the Eastern Cherokees to a participation
in the benefits of the New Echota treaty of 1835 were dis
tinctly recognized, and provision made for the final adjust
ment of all unpaid and pending claims due under that treaty;
the government having insisted before that time that those
rights were conditional upon their removal to the West. Col.
W. H. Thomas then took charge of the Eastern Band. 6
William Holland Thomas. He was born in 1805 in
Haywood county. His father was of a Welch family,
fought at Kings Mountain under Col. Campbell, and was
related to Zachary Taylor. His mother was descended from
a Maryland family of Revolutionary stock. He was an only
and posthumous child, his father having been accidentally
drowned a short time before he was born. When twelve
years old he was engaged to tend an Indian trading store on
Soco creek by Felix Walker, son of the congressman who made
a national reputation by "talking for Buncombe." Here
he studied law, and was duly admitted to practice. He was
adopted by Yonaguska, the Cherokee chief, and was called
Will-Usdi, or "Little Will." He learned the spoken and writ
ten language, acquiring the Sequoya syllabary shortly after its

THE CHEROKEES 581
invention. Soon after the removal of the Cherokees Thomas
bought a fine farm near Whittier, and built a home which he
called Stekoa, after the Indian town on the same site which had
been destroyed by Rutherford in 1776. At the time of the removal
he owned five trading stores, viz : at Quallatown, at Murphy,
at Charleston, Tenn., at Robbinsville and at Webster. As
agent for the Cherokees he bought the five towns for them
at Bird-town, Paint-town, Wolf-town, Yellow-hill, and Big
Cove. He drew up a simple form of government for them,
which was executed by Yonaguska till his death and after
wards by Thomas. In 1848 he entered the State Senate, and
inaugurated a system of road improvement and was the
father of the Western North Carolina railroad. He voted
for secession in 1861, and in 1862 organized the Thomas
Legion, composed of Cherokees and white citizens. After
the war his health failed. His conduct of Cherokee affairs
was settled by arbitrators, and it was found that the Indians
had lost nothing, and had gained largely under his leader
ship. Col. Thomas, with 300 Indians and Col. James R.
Love with 300 white soldiers, confronted Col. Bartlett of New
York in April, 1865, near Waynesville. At sight of the Indians
and after hearing their yells Bartlett agreed to surrender,
and Col. Thomas paroled his men, allowing them to retain
their side arms. 7 Col. Thomas died May 12, 1893.
The Late Captain James W. Terrell. " In 1852 (Capt.)
James W. Terrell was engaged by (Col. W. H.) Thomas, then
in the State Senate, to take charge of his store at Qualla, and
remained associated with him and in close contact with the
Indians from then until after the close of the war, assisting,
as special United States Agent, in the disbursement of the
interest payments, and afterward as a Confederate officer in
the organization of the Indian companies, holding a commis
sion as captain of Company A, Sixty-ninth North Carolina
Confederate infantry. Being of an investigating bent, Cap
tain Terrell was led to give attention to the customs and
mythology of the Cherokee, and to accumulate a fund of
information on the subject seldom possessed by a white man."
North Carolina Gives Permission. "In 1855 Congress
directed the per capita payment to the East Cherokees of
the removal fund established for them in 1848, provided that
North Carolina should first give assurance that they would

582 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
be aUowed to remain permanently in that State. This assur
ance, however, was not given until 1866, and the money was
therefore not distributed, but remained in the treasury until
1875, when it was made applicable to the purchase of lands
and the quieting of titles for the benefit of the Indians."
Lanman, Daniel Webster's Secretary. In the spring
of 1848 the author, Lanman, visited the East Cherokees and
has left an interesting account of their condition at the time,
together with a description of their ball-plays, dances, and
customs generally, having been the guest of Colonel Thomas,
of whom he speaks as the guide, counselor, and friend of the
Indians, as well as their business agent and chief, so that the
connection was like that existing between a father and his
children. He puts the number of Indians at about 800 Cher
okee and 100 Catawba on the "Quallatown" reservation —
the name being in use thus early — with 200 more Indians
residing in the more westerly portion of the State. Of their
general condition he says :
Condition of Indians in 1848. "About three-fourths of
the entire population can read in their own language, and,
though the majority of them understand English, a very few
can speak the language. They practice, to a considerable
extent, the science of agriculture, and have acquired such a
knowledge of the mechanic arts as answers them for all ordi
nary purposes, for they manufacture their own clothing, their
own ploughs, and other farming utensils, their own axes, and
even their own guns. Their women are no longer treated as
slaves, but as equals; the men labor in the fields and their
wives are devoted entirely to household employments. They
keep the same domestic animals that are kept by their white
neighbors, and cultivate all the common grains of the coun
try. They are probably as temperate as any other class of
people on the face of the earth, honest in their business inter
course, moral in their thoughts, words, and deeds, and dis
tinguished for their faithfulness in performing the duties of
religion. They are chiefly Methodists and Baptists, and have
regularly ordained ministers, who preach to them on every
Sabbath, and they have also abandoned many of their more
senseless superstitions. They have their own court and try
their criminals by a regular jury. Their judges and lawyers
are chosen from among themselves. They keep in order the

THE CHEROKEES 583
public roads leading through their settlement. By a law of
the State they have a right to vote, but seldom exercise that
right, as they do not like the idea of being identified with
any of the political parties. Excepting on festive days, they
dress after the manner of the white man, but far more pic
turesquely. They live in small log houses of their own con
struction, and have everything they need or desire in the
way of food. They are, in fact, the happiest community that
I have yet met with in this southern country."
Salali. Among the other notables Lanman speaks thus of
Salili, "Squirrel," a born mechanic of the band, who died
only a few years since :
"He is quite a young man and has a remarkably thoughtful face
He is the blacksmith of his nation, and with some assistance supplies
the whole of Qualla town with all their axes and plows; but what is more,
he has manufactured a number of very superior rifles and pistols, includ
ing stock, barrel, and lock, and he is also the builder of grist mills, which
grind all the corn which his people eat. A specimen of his workman
ship in the way of a rifle may be seen at the Patent Office in Washing
ton, where it was deposited by Mr. Thomas; and I believe Salali is the
first Indian who ever manufactured an entire gun. But when it is re
membered that he never received a particle of education in any of the
mechanic arts, but is entirely self-taught, his attainments must be con
sidered truly remarkable. "
Colonel Thomas Thwarts General Kirby Smith. "From
1855 until after the Civil War we find no official notice of
the East Cherokees, and our information must be obtained
from other sources. It was, however, a most momentous
period in their history. At the outbreak of the war Thomas
was serving his seventh consecutive term in the State Senate.
Being an ardent Confederate sympathizer, he was elected a
delegate to the convention which passed the secession ordi
nance, and immediately after voting in favor of that measure
resigned from the Senate in order to work for the Southern
cause. As he was already well advanced in years it is doubt
ful if his effort would have gone beyond the raising of funds
and other supplies but for the fact that at this juncture an
effort was made by the Confederate General Kirby Smith to
enlist the East Cherokees for active service.
Kirby Smith's Emissary. "The agent sent for this pur
pose was Washington Morgan, known to the Indians as Agan-
stata, son of that Colonel Gideon Morgan who had commanded

584 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
the Cherokee at the Horseshoe Bend. By virtue of his Indian
blood and historic ancestry he was deemed the most fitting
emissary for the purpose. Early in 1862 he arrived among
the Cherokee, and by appealing to old-time memories so
aroused the war spirit among them that a large number de
clared themselves ready to follow wherever he led. Con
ceiving the question at issue in the war to be one that did
not concern the Indians, Thomas had discouraged their par
ticipation in it and advised them to remain at home in quiet
neutrality. Now, however, knowing Morgan's reputation for
reckless daring, he became alarmed at the possible result to
them of such leadership. Forced either to see them go from
his own protection or to lead them himself, he chose the lat
ter alternative and proposed to them to enlist in the Con
federate legion which he was about to organize. His object,
as he himself has stated, was to keep them out of danger so
far as possible by utilizing them as scouts and home guards
through the mountains, away from the path of the large
armies. Nothing of this was said to the Indains, who might
not have been satisfied with such an arrangement. Morgan
went back alone and the Cherokee enrolled under the com
mand of their white chief.
Formation of Thomas's Legion. "The ' Thomas Legion,'
recruited in 1862 by William H. Thomas for the Confederate
service and commanded by him as colonel, consisted origin
ally of one infantry regiment of ten companies (Sixty-ninth
North Carolina Infantry), one infantry battalion of six com
panies, one cavalry battalion of eight companies (First North
Carolina Cavalry Battalion), one field battery (Light Battery)
of 103 officers and men, and one company of engineers; in all
about 2,800 men. The infantry battalion was recruited
toward the close of the war to a full regiment of ten companies
and two other companies of the infantry regiment
recruited later were composed almost entirely of East Cher
okee Indians, most of the commissioned officers being white
men. The whole number of Cherokee thus enlisted was
nearly four hundred, or about every able-bodied man in the
tribe." One Secret of Col. Thomas's Success. Many have won
dered how Col. Thomas could so soon have obtained com
plete control of all the affairs of the Eastern Band of Chero-

THE CHEROKEES 585

kees, and how he could have obtained from the Confederate
government its consent for the organization of these Indians
into an independent legion, subject almost entirely to his
control, and required to operate only in the restricted terri
tory immediately surrounding their reservation at Qually-
town. But when it is remembered that his mother was
Temperance Calvert, and that he himself was closely related
to Zachary Taylor, President of the United States, whose
daughter became the wife of Jefferson Davis, President of
the Southern Confederacy, much that was incomprehensible
becomes plain. Indeed, all the so called Colvards of Ashe,
Graham and Haywood counties claim that their real name
was originally Calvert; that they are descendants of the
Calverts of Maryland; and the late Captain James W. Terrell
always insisted that Temperance Calvert was a grand-niece
of Lord Baltimore himself. Col. Thomas was also first
cousin to John Strother, whose family was one of influence
and standing in Virginia in former days. (See N. C. Uni
versity Magazine for May, 1899, pp. 291 to 295.)
Cherokee Scouts and Home Guards. "In accordance
with Thomas's plan the Indians were employed chiefly as scouts
and home guards in the mountain region along the Tennessee-
Carolina border, where, according to the testimony of Colonel
Stringfield, they did good work and service for the South.
The most important engagement in which they were concerned
occurred at Baptist gap, Tennessee, September 15, 1862, where
Lieutenant Astugataga, a splendid specimen of Indian man
hood, was killed in a charge. The Indians were furious at
his death, and before they could be restrained they scalped
one or two of the Federal dead. For this action ample apol
ogies were afterwards given by their superior officers. The
war, in fact, brought out all the latent Indian in their nature. <
Before starting to the front every man consulted an oracle
stone to learn whether or not he might hope to return in safety.
The start was celebrated with a grand old-time war-dance
at the townhouse on Soco, . . . the Indians being
painted and feathered in good old style, Thomas himself
frequently assisting as master of ceremonies. The ball-play,
too, was not forgotten, and on one occasion a detachment of
Cherokees, left to guard a bridge, became so engrossed in the
excitement of the game as to narrowly escape capture by a

586 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
sudden dash of the Federals. Owing to Thomas's care for
their welfare, they suffered but slightly in actual battle,
although a number died of hardship and disease. When the
Confederates evacuated eastern Tennessee, in the winter of
1863-64, some of the white troops of the legion, with one or
two of the Cherokee companies, were shifted to western Vir
ginia, and by assignment to other regiments a few of the
Cherokee were present at the final siege and surrender of
Richmond. The main body of the Indians, with the rest
of the Thomas Legion, crossed over into North Carolina and
did service protecting the western border until the close of
the war, when they surrendered on parole at Waynesville,
North Carolina, in May 1865, all those of the command being
allowed to keep their guns. It is claimed by their officers
that they were the last of the Confederate forces to surrender.
About fifty of the Cherokee veterans still survive (in 1899), nearly
half of whom, under conduct of Colonel Stringfield, attended
the Confederate reunion at Louisville, Kentucky, in 1900,
where they attracted much attention.
Confederate Congress Provides Funds. "In 1863,
by resolution of February 12, the Confederate House of Rep
resentatives called for information as to the number and
condition of the East Cherokee, and their pending relations
with the Federal government at the beginning of the war,
with a view to continuing these relations under Confederate
auspices. In response to this inquiry a report was submitted
by the Confederate Commissioner of Indian Affairs, S. S. Scott,
based on information furnished by Colonel Thomas and Captain
James W. Terrell, their former disbursing agent, showing
that interest upon the 'removal and subsistence fund' estab
lished in 1848 had been paid annually up to and including
the year 1859, at the rate of $3.20 per capita, or an aggregate,
exclusive of disbursing agent's commission, of $4,838.40 an
nually, based upon the original Mullay enumeration of 1,517.
"Upon receipt of this report it was enacted by the Con
federate Congress that the sum of $19,352.36 be paid the
East Cherokee to cover the interest period of four years from
May 23, 1860 to May 23, 1864.
Captured Cherokees Desert Confederacy. "In a
skirmish near Bryson City (then Charleston), Swain county,
North Carolina, about a year after enlistment, a small party

THE CHEROKEES 587
of Cherokees — perhaps a dozen in number — were captured
by a detachment of Union troops and carried to Knoxville,
where, having become dissatisfied with their experience in
the Confederate service, they were easily persuaded to go
over to the Union side. Through the influence of their prin
cipal man, Diganeski, several others were induced to desert
to the Union army, making about thirty in all. As a part of
the Third North Carolina Mounted Volunteer Infantry,
they served with the Union forces in the same region until
the close of the war, when they returned to their homes to
find their tribesmen so bitterly incensed against them that
for some time their Uves were in danger. Eight of these were
still alive in 1900.
After Civil War. "Shortly after this event Colonel
Thomas was compelled by physical and mental infirmity to
retire from further active participation in the affairs of the
East Cherokee, after more than half a century spent in inti
mate connection with them, during the greater portion of
which time he had been their most trusted friend and adviser.
Their affairs at once became the prey of confusion and fac
tional strife, which continued until the United States stepped
in as arbiter.
Cherokees Adopt New Government, 1870. "On De
cember 9, 1868, a general council of the East Cherokee assem
bled at Cheowa, in Graham county, North Carolina, took
preliminary steps toward the adoption of a regular form of
tribal government under a constitution. N. J. Smith, after
ward principal chief, was clerk of the council. The new gov
ernment was formally inaugurated on December 1, 1870.
Status of Indian Lands. "The status of the lands held
by the Indians had now become a matter of serious concern.
As has been stated, the deeds had been made out by Thomas
in his own name, as the State laws at that time forbade
Indian ownership of real estate. In consequence of his losses
during the war and his subsequent disability, the Thomas
properties, of which the Cherokee lands were technically a
part, had become involved, so that the entire estate had
passed into the hands of creditors, the most important of
whom, WiUiam Johnston, had obtained sheriff's deeds in 1869
for all of these Indian lands under three several judgments
against Thomas, aggregating $33,887.11. To adjust the mat-

588 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
ter so as to secure title and possession to the Indians, Con
gress in 1870 authorized suit to be brought in their name for
the recovery of their interest. This suit was begun in May,
1873, in the United States Circuit Court for western North
Carolina. A year later the matters in dispute were submit
ted by agreement to a board of arbitrators, whose award was
confirmed by the court in November, 1874.
Land Status Settled by Arbitration. "The award finds
that Thomas had purchased with Indian funds a tract esti
mated to contain 50,000 acres on Oconaluftee river and Soco
creek, and known as the Qualla boundary, together with a
number of individual tracts outside the boundary; that the
Indians were still indebted to Thomas toward the purchase
of the Qualla boundary lands for the sum of $18,250, from
which should be deducted $6,500 paid by them to Johnston
to release titles, with interest to date of award, making an
aggregate of $8,486, together with a further sum of $2,478,
which had been intrusted to Terrell, the business clerk and
assistant of Thomas, and by him turned over to Thomas, as
creditor of the Indians, under power of attorney, this latter
sum, with interest to date of award, aggregating $2,697.89;
thus leaving a balance due from the Indians to Thomas or
his legal creditor, Johnston, of $7,066.11. The award declares
that Johnston should be allowed to hold the lands bought by
him only as security for the balance due him until paid, and
that on the payment of the said balance of $7,066.11, with
interest at six per cent from the date of the award, the In
dians should be entitled to a clear conveyance from him of
the legal title to all the lands embraced within the Qualla
boundary. Part of Subsistence Fund Used to Clear Title. "To
enable the Indians to clear off this lien on their lands and for
other purposes, Congress in 1875 directed that as much as
remained of the 'removal and subsistence fund' set apart for
their benefit in 1848 should be used 'in perfecting the titles
to the lands awarded to them, and to pay the costs, expenses,
and liabilities attending their recent litigations, also to pur
chase and extinguish the titles of any white persons to lands
within the general boundaries alotted to them by the court,
and for the education, improvement, and civilization of their
people.' In accordance with this authority the unpaid bal-

THE CHEROKEES 589

ance and interest due Johnston, amounting to $7,242.76, was
paid him in the same year, and shortly afterward there was
purchased on behalf of the Indians some fifteen thousand
acres additional, the Commissioner of Indian Affairs being con
stituted trustee for the Indians. For the better protection of
the Indians the lands were made inalienable except by assent
of the council and upon approval of the President of the
United States.
Department of Indian Affairs Assumes Control. "The
titles and boundaries having been adjusted, the Indian Office
assumed regular supervision of East Cherokee affairs, and in
June, 1875, the first agent since the retirement of Thomas was
sent out in the person of W. C. McCarthy. He found the
Indians, according to his report, destitute and discouraged,
almost without stock or farming tools. There were no
schools, and very few full-bloods could speak English,
although to their credit nearly all could read and write their
own language, the parents teaching the children. Under his
authority a distribution was made of stock animals, seed
wheat, and farming tools, and several schools were started.
In the next year, however, the agency was discontinued and
the educational interests of the band turned over to the
State School Superintendent.
The Old Indian Friends', the Quakers. "The neglected
condition of the East Cherokee having been brought to the
attention of those old time friends of the Indian, the Quak
ers, through an appeal made in their behalf by members of
that society residing in North Carolina, the Western Yearly
Meeting, of Indiana, volunteered to undertake the work of
civilization and education. On May 31, 1881, representatives
of the Friends entered into a contract with the Indians, sub
ject to approval by the Government, to establish and con
tinue among them for ten years an industrial school and other
common schools, to be supported in part from the annual
interest of the trust fund held by the Government to the
credit of the East Cherokee and in part by funds furnished
by the Friends themselves. Through the efforts of Barnabas
C. Hobbs, of the Western Yearly Meeting, a yearly contract
to the same effect was entered into with the Commissioner of
Indian Affairs later in the same year, and was renewed by
successive commissioners to cover the period of ten years end-

590 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
ing June 30, 1892, when the contract system was terminated
and the Government assumed direct control. Under the joint
arrangement, with some aid at the outset from the North
Carolina Meeting, work was begun in 1881 by Thomas Brown
with several teachers sent out by the Indiana Friends, who
established a small training school at the agency headquar
ters at Cherokee, and several day schools in the outlying set
tlements. He was succeeded three years later by H. W.
Spray, an experienced educator, who, with a corps of efficient
assistants and greatly enlarged facilities, continued to do good
work for the elevation of the Indians until the close of the
contract system eight years later. After an interregnum, dur
ing which the schools suffered from frequent changes, he was
reappointed as government agent and superintendent in 1898,
a position which he still holds in 1901. To the work con
ducted under his auspices the East Cherokee owe much of
what they have today of civilization and enlightenment.
Eastern Band Sues in Court of Claims. "The East
Cherokee had never ceased to contend for a participation in
the rights and privileges accruing to the western nation under
treaties with the government. In 1882 a special agent had
been appointed to investigate their claims and in the following
year, under authority of Congress, the eastern band of Cher
okee brought suit in the Court of Claims against the United
States and the Cherokee Indians. . . . The case was
decided adversely to the eastern band, first by the Court of
Claims in 1885, and finally, on appeal, by the Supreme Court
on March 1, 1886, that court holding in its decision that the
Cherokee in North Carolina had dissolved their connection
with the Cherokee nation and ceased to be a part of it when
they refused to accompany the main body at the Removal,
and that if Indians in North Carolina or in any state east of
the Mississippi wished to enjoy the benefits of the common
property of the Cherokee Nation in any form whatever they
must be readmitted to citizenship in the Cherokee Nation and
comply with its constitution and laws.
Eastern Band Incorporated. "In order to acquire a
more definite legal status, the Cherokee residing in North
Carolina — being practically all those of the eastern band
having genuine Indian interests — became a corporate body
under the laws of the state in 1889. In 1894 the long-stand-

THE CHEROKEES 591

ing litigation between the East Cherokee and a number of
creditors and claimants to Indian lands within and adjoining
the Qualla boundary was finally settled by a compromise
by which the several white tenants and claimants within the
boundary agreed to execute a quitclaim and vacate on pay
ment to them by the Indians of sums aggregating $24,552,
while for another disputed adjoining tract of 33,000 acres the
United States agreed to pay, for the Indians, at the rate of
$1.25 per acre. The necessary government approval having
been obtained, Congress appropriated a sufficient amount for
carrying into effect the agreement, thus at last completing
a perfect and unencumbered title to all the lands claimed by
the Indians, with the exception of a few outlying tracts of
comparative unimportance.
Exact Legal Status Still in Dispute. "The exact
legal status of the East Cherokee is still a matter of dispute,
they being at once wards of the government, citizens of the
United States, and (in North Carolina) a corporate body
under state laws. They pay real estate taxes and road ser
vice, exercise the voting privilege and are amenable to local
courts, but do not pay poll tax or receive any pauper assist
ance from the counties; neither can they make free contracts
or alienate their lands. Under their tribal constitution they
are governed by a principal and an assistant chief, elected for
a term of four years, with an executive council appointed by
the chief, and sixteen councilors elected by the various settle
ments for a term of two years. The annual council is held
in October at Cherokee, on the reservation, the proceedings
being in the Cherokee language and recorded by their clerk
in the Cherokee alphabet, as well as in English.
Present Material Conditions. "The majority are
fairly comfortable, far above the condition of most Indian
tribes, and but little, if any, behind their white neighbors.
In literary ability they may even be said to surpass them,
as in addition to the result of nearly twenty years of school
work among the younger people, nearly all the men and some
of the women can read and write their own language. All
wear civilized costumes, though an occasional pair of mocca
sins is seen, while the women find means to gratify the racial
love of color in the wearing of red bandanna kerchiefs in place
of bonnets. The older people still cling to their ancient rites

592 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
and sacred traditions, but the dance and the ballplay wither
and the Indian day is nearly spent. "
Eastern Band Try to Sell Timber. Since Mr. Moody's
concluding words were written the courts have managed still
more to confuse the legal status of the Cherokees, for in Sep
tember, 1893, the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians, acting
as a corporation of the State of North Carolina, by virtue of
Chapter 211, Private Laws of 1889, sold and conveyed to
David L. Boyd certain timber on the Cathcart tract of the
Qualla boundary, containing about 30,000 acres. In January,
1894, David L. Boyd sold said trees to H. M. Dickson and Wil
liam T. Mason, who afterwards conveyed them to the Dick
son-Mason Lumber Company. Before beginning to cut
these trees the Dickson-Mason Company was apprised of the
fact that the Department of the Interior of the United States
had not sanctioned the sale of this timber, and refused to ratify
the contract. This company, on the other hand, had been
advised that the band of Indians were citizens of North Caro
lina and not tribal Indians, and, therefore, had the right to
convey the trees; and desiring to have the question tested
by the courts, put a few men to work cutting the timber, at
the same time notifying the agents of the Government and the
United States District Attorney of the fact. The government
instituted a suit in which it asked a perpetual injunction
against the Dickson-Mason Company; but at the next term
of the United States Court at Asheville, in November, 1894,
the government voluntarily took a nonsuit in the cause,
the Attorney General holding that "the legal status of the
Indians in question is that of citizens of North Carolina; that
they have been in all respects' citizens since the date of or
soon after the treaty with the Cherokees of 1885 [1835?],
and this with the consent of the United States expressed in
that treaty, by the election of the Indians and the consent
of North Carolina. They have voted at all elections for
half a century, and are citizens of the United States. It seems
clear that Congress could not, by the Act of July 27, 1868,
or otherwise (if such was the intention) make of them an
Indian tribe or place them under the control of the United
States as Indians, any more effectually than if they had been
white citizens of Massachusetts or Georgia (Eastern Band
Cherokee Indians v. the United States and Cherokee Nation,

THE CHEROKEES 593

117 U. S. 228). Neither could such citizens of North Carolina
make themselves a tribe of Indians within that State. "
Interior Department Intervenes. Accordingly, the
Dickson-Mason Company began making large and expensive
preparations for cutting the timber on the Cathcart bound
ary. But, it turned out later, that the Interior Department
was not satisfied with this disposition of the matter and com
menced another action based on the same facts, but alleging
fraud in obtaining the Boyd contract from the Indians.
Judge C. H. Simonton (in U. S. v. Boyd, 68 Fed. Rep., 587)
held that the Eastern Band of Cherokees were not tribal
Indians, but wards of the Government which, like any other
guardian, had the right to see that any contract made by
them was for their benefit and not to their detriment. In
an opinion filed by him he held that "the case of the Chero
kee trust fund (117 U. S., 288) does not conflict with these
views. That case decides that this Eastern Band of Chero
kee Indians is not a part of the nation of Cherokees with
which this Government treats, and that they have no recog
nized separate political existence. But, at the same time, their
distinct unity is recognized, and the fostering care of the
Government over them as such distinct unit. This being so,
the United States have the right in their own Courts to bring
such suits as may be necessary to protect these Indians."
Government Appeals from Decision. The case was then
referred to Hon. R. M. Douglas, Standing Master, who, in No
vember, 1895, found that the price paid for the timber ($15,000)
was fair and that there was no fraud in making the contract.
This report was confirmed, but the Government appealed to
the Circuit Court of Appeals from so much of the decree as
held that the Court had the power to permit the parties to
carry out the contract without the sanction of the Interior
Department, upon the ground that "these Indians were tribal
Indians and embraced within the terms of congressional en
actments for the protection of tribal Indians." This con
tention was sustained on appeal (see U. S. v. Boyd and others,
83 Fed. Rep., 547), though "no reference is made by the Court
to the decision of the United States Supreme Court in the
case of the Eastern Band of the Cherokee Indians v. United
States and Cherokee Nation (117 U. S. Rep., 288) where the
whole subject is discussed, and where, on page 309, the Court
W. N. C— 38

594 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
says : ' . . . . they have never been recognized by the
United States; no treaty has been made with them; they can
pass no laws; they are citizens of that State [North Carolina]
and bound by its laws. ' "
Lumber Company Appeals. From this decision the Dick
son - Mason Company appealed to the United States
Supreme Court in May, 1888, but before its perfection the
Interior Department re-investigated the contract of sale of
the timber, and fully ratified the same. The appeal, there
fore, was abandoned; and the anomaly remains that the
Cherokees are citizens of North Carolina, according to the
United States Supreme Court, while they are still tribal In-
dains whose contracts are void without the approval of the
Department of the Interior, according to the decision of an
inferior tribunal, that of the U. S. Court of Appeals. (For a
full report of these cases see Private Calender No. 725, 61st
Congress, 3d Session, House Rep. Report No. 1926, January
17, 1911.) Thus each party to this proceeding obtained what
was sought by it; the Dickson-Mason company the right to
cut and remove the timber, and the Interior Depart
ment a decision which gives it a right to review every
contract made by the Eastern Band of Cherokees. And it
is well that this is so, for while there was no fraud in this par
ticular contract, nevertheless, there may be in contracts yet
to be made.
United States Vacillates, State Stands Firm. The
above is the work of the United States authorities. So far
as North Carolina is concerned, her courts have finally and
forever settled the status of the Cherokee Indians in her
borders as citizens of this State, as will fully appear by refer
ence to Frazier v. Cherokee Indians, 146 N. C, 477, and State
v. Wolfe, 145 N. C, 440.
Final Distribution. "In 1910 was distributed to the
Eastern Band of Cherokees about $133 per capita. 8 This
is the final payment on their claims against the Government
for a balance due them under the New Echota treaty of 1835-
1836, under which the Government had promised to pay the
Eastern Band of Cherokees (before the removal) $5,000,000
for a release to all of their lands east of the Mississippi river,
part of which was to be paid in cash and the balance invested
in bonds and held for their benefit. But there is another pro-

THE CHEROKEES 595
vision under which each Indian was to be paid for transportation
to the Indian Territory and for one year's subsistence after arriv
ing there. There was a question as to whether this money
was to be in addition to the $5,000,000 to be paid for
the lands or was to be deducted from that fund. In a sub
sequent settlement with the Government (1852) the Indians
gave a receipt which was in full of all claims and demands,
although at that time the question of this transportation and
subsistence payment had not been discussed. 9 It was after
wards raised, however, but the United States claimed that
the Cherokees were estopped by their receipt above referred
to. Thus matters stood when Hon. Hoke Smith, Secretary
of the Interior under President Cleveland, sought to pur
chase of the Western Band the Cherokee Strip of the Indian
Territory (25 Stat., 1005 of 1889). The Cherokees then re
fused to consider any proposition to sell until the Govern
ment agreed to allow them to prove any claim they might
still have against the Government under the New Echota
treaty. This the Government agreed to December 19, 1891,
and the Cherokee Strip was sold. The Interior Department
investigated their claims and reported that there was due the
Indians $1,111,284.71 which, at five per cent from 12th June,
1838, amounted to about $4,500,000. But the Department
of Justice decided against the admission of the Department
of the Interior, the Attorney General holding that the receipt
of 1852 estopped the Indians from setting up any further
claims, March 2, 1893. Whereupon, Congress passed an act
authorizing the Indians to set up their contentions before
the Court of Claims, which decided in favor of the Indians.
But the United States appealed to the Supreme Court, which
sustained the Court of Claims, with some slight modifica
tions. An effort was made to pay out this money per stirpes,
but that was found to be impracticable and the payment had
to be made per capita, owing to intermarriages between the
Indians and the whites. According to the roll of 1851 the
Eastern Band composed about one-ninth of the Cherokee
Nation, but in the final payment they were found to be only
about one-eighteenth of the whole. See Eastern Cherokees v.
United States, No. 23214 Court of Claims, decided March 7,
1910." Western Cherokee Nation Dissolved. In 1887 Con
gress abandoned the reservation plan, and enacted the Land

596 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA^
Allotment Law, by which the land was divided into indi
vidual holdings to be held in trust by the government till
each individual owner was considered competent to hold it
in fee. This has now been done, the task of converting the
Cherokees from a tribe into a body of individual owners of
land having been commenced in 1902. Prior to that date,
in 1898, Congress had passed the Curtis act providing for
the valuation and allotment of the lands of the Five Civil
ized Tribes. In 1906 the legislative, and judicial depart
ments of the Cherokees ceased; but the executive branch
was kept in existence under Principal Chief W. C. Rogers.
When Oklahoma became a state in 1907 all members of the
tribe became citizens of the new state. By July 1, 1914,
all community property had been converted into cash, amount
ing to about $600,000, or about $15 per capita, to 41,798
members, including about 2,000 full-blooded whites and 3,000
full-blooded negroes, descendants of slaves freed in 1865.
The four other nations, Creek, Chickasaw, Seminole and
Chocktaw, will soon pass into full citizenship also. The
Cherokees were admittedly the most advanced native Ameri
can race since the Spanish exterminated the Incas and Aztecs.
Ethnologically the Cherokees are said to have been a branch
of the Iroquois family, though never allied with them politi
cally. It is claimed that they were driven from their orig
inal home in the Appomattox basin, Virginia, into Georgia,
the Carolinas and Tennessee. When the Supreme Court of
the United States sustained the Cherokee treaties, Andrew
Jackson remarked: "Now let John Marshall enforce his
decision." Population. There are at this time in Swain, Jackson,
Cherokee and Graham counties, North Carolina, a consider
able number of Cherokee Indians. "The total population of
the Cherokees, as given by the superintendent in charge for
1911, is 2,015. The enrollment in the different schools is
as follows: Cherokee Indian School (Boarding)  175
Birdtown Day School  45
Snow Bird Gap (Day School)  34
Little Snow Bird  20
"A considerable number attend public schools where the
degree of Indian blood is small. The non-reservation board-

THE CHEROKEES 597
ing schools provided by the Federal Government also have
a number of pupils from this reservation."
Indian Weapons. From the Handbook of American
Indians (Bulletin 30 of the Bureau of American Ethnology,
Smithsonian Institution, 90-94) can be obtained a full de
scription of the arrowheads, arrows, bows and quivers, etc.,
of the American Indians; with pictures of arrowshaft straight-
eners, stone arrowshaft rubber, and the various methods of
arrow release. It is generally supposed that the process by
which the Indians manufactured the arrow- and spear-heads
out of flint is among the lost arts; but Dr. W. H. Holmes,
head curator of the department of anthropology of the Smith
sonian Institution, wrote me, August 29, 1913, that "the
processes referred to are well known and have been observed
in practice among a number of western tribes, and the art
has been acquired by numerous students of the subject, among
others myself. In preparing a work for publication in the
near future, I have described twenty processes practiced by
different primitive peoples. The flint is usually quarried
from pits at Flint Ridge, Ohio, and in many parts of Georgia
and the Carolinas. It is broken into fragments and the thin
favorable ones are chosen and the shape is roughed out by
means of small hammerstones. These hammerstones are
found in great numbers in flint bearing regions and are glob
ular in shape or discoidal. Sometimes they have pits in
opposite sides to accommodate the thumb and fingers while
in use. When the shape is roughed out by strokes of the
hammer, and the edges are in approximate shape, a piece
of hard bone or antler is taken and the flakes are struck off
on the edges by means of quick, hard pressure with the bone
point. Sometimes the implement being shaped is held in the
hand, the hand being protected by a pad of buckskin. Again,
the implement being shaped is laid upon a solid surface of
wood or stone beneath which is a pad of buckskin and the
flakes are broken off by downward pressure of the instrument."
CHEROKEE MYTHS.
(Condensed from the 19th Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology.)
Origin of the Mounds. Were built for town-houses from
which to witness dances and games, and be above freshets.
Cheowa Maxima. A bald mountain at head of Cheowa
river, was the place of hornets, from a monster hornet which
nested there.

598 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Joanna Bald. A bald mountain between Graham and
Cherokee, called "lizard place," from a great lizard with
shining throat.
Judaculla Old Field. On slope of Tennessee bald, where
a giant of that name had had his residence and field.
Judaculla Rock. On the north bank of Caney fork, a
mile above Moses' creek, being a large soapstone slab covered
with rude carvings.
Nantahala. A river in Macon, being a corruption of
Nundayeli, or middle sun, because between the river banks
the sun can be seen only at noonday. Others say it means
a maiden's bosom.
Nugatsani. A ridge below Yellow Hill, said to be the
resort of fairies. The word denotes a gradual or gentle slope.
Qualla. A name given a locality where there was a trad
ing post because a woman named Polly lived there, the In
dians pronouncing it Qually, being unable to articulate the
letter p.
Soco Gap. At the head of Soco creek, and means an am
bush or where they were ambushed, from which point they
watched for enemies approaching from the north. It was
there they ambushed an invading party of Shawano. Hence
the name.
Standing Indian. A high peak at the head of Nantahala
river, meaning "where the man stood" (Yunwitsulenunyi),
from a rock that used to jut out from the summit, but is now
broken off.
Stekoa. The W. H. Thomas farm above Whittier, the
true meaning of which is lost. It does not mean "little fat,"
as some suppose.
Swannanoa. It does not mean "beautiful," but is a cor
ruption of Suwali -nunna (hi), Suwali trail, the Cherokee
name, not of the stream, but of the trail crossing the gap to
the country of the Ani-Suwali or Cheraw.
Tusquittee Bald. A mountain in Clay, meaning "where
the water-dogs laughed"; because a hunter thought he heard
dogs laugh there, but found that their pond had dried up,
and they were on their way to Nantahala river, saying their
gills had dried up.
Vengeance Creek. A south branch of Valley river, be
cause of the cross looks of an Indian woman who lived there.

THE CHEROKEES 599
Wayah Gap. In Nantahala mountains on road from Aquone
to Franklin, and is Cherokee for wolf. A fight occurred here
in 1776. Some call it Warrior gap.
Webster. Used to be called Unadantiyi, or "Where they
conjured," though the name properly belongs to a gap three
miles east of Webster on trail up Scott's creek.
McNair's Grave. Just inside the Tennessee line is a
stone-walled grave, with a slab on which is an epitaph telling
of the Removal heartbreak, having this inscription: "Sacred
to the memory of David and Delilah A. McNair, who de
parted this life, the former on the 15th August, 1836, and the
latter on the 30th November, 1838. Their children being
members of the Cherokee nation and having to go with their
people to the West, do leave this monument, not only to show
their regard for their parents, but to guard their sacred ashes
agamst the unhallowed intrusion of the white man."
NOTES.
Condensed from Literary Digest, p. 472, September 21, 1912.
2Unless otherwise noted all in this chapter is based on the Nineteenth Annual Report.
of the Bureau of Ethnology, 1897, Part I.
'Roosevelt, Vol. I, p. 74.
4In the Lyceum for April, 1891. pp. 22-23, the late Col. A. T. Davidson gives an ac
count of the burial of two brass field pieces by Rutherford's men in a swamp below the>
residence of the late Elam Slagle, and near the mouth of Warrior creek, so called because
of the battle there.
SN. C. Booklet, for December, 1904.
6In Wheeler, Vol. II (pp. 205-6) is a letter from Col. Thomas to Hon. James Graham,
dated October 15, 1838, in which he gives a brief account of the Eastern Band and why
they were allowed to remain.
'Condensed from 19th An. Rep. Bureau Am. Ethnology, and N. C. Booklet, Vol. Ill,
No. 2. These notes were from the Nineteenth Report, and I have already sufficiently
stated that everything not otherwise noted (Note 2) is taken from that authority.
Statement of Hon. Geo. H. Smathers, attorney for the Eastern Band, to J. P. A.,
May 28, 1912.
'See 9 Stat. L. 544-556-570-572; 40 Court of Claims, 281-252; 202 U. S. Rep., 101-130.

CHAPTER XXVII
THE CIVIL WAR PERIOD
Introductory Remarks. That there were many outrages
committed on and near the Tennessee line during the Civil
War is too well known to admit of doubt. That all the blame
does not rest on one side alone is equally certain. These moun
tains were full of " outliers, " as they were called, and they had to
live somehow. They did not belong especially to either side;
they simply wanted to keep out of the war. It was a great
temptation to cold and hungry men on foot to steal horses,
food, bedding and clothing, and many of them yielded to
the desire. Raiding parties went into Tennessee from North
Carolina and raiding parties from Tennessee came into the
North Carolina mountains. The trails and wagon roads
through these mountains were usually guarded by Confeder
ate troops. When they could not capture those who were
riding or driving horses and mules from one side to the other
they shot them down. Toward the close of the war lawless
men robbed those they thought had money or other valuables.
That the names of those who figured in this unfortunate
period as oppressors or oppressed should be preserved, as far
as possible, is evident to all who appreciate the duties of im
partial history. Therefore, not to keep alive unpleasant mem
ories, but to preserve names, dates and events, some of these
occurrences are here related. Some of them were attended
with unnecessary cruelty, but no mention is made thereof.
That some of the women at home had as hard a time as the
men in the field is shown by Mrs. Margaret Walker's story.
The facts given in this chapter are meant merely to supple
ment those given in "The North Carolina Regiments," pub
lished by the State in 1901.
North Carolina in the Civil War. l From the address
at Raleigh, May 10, 1904, by Hon. Theo. F. Davidson, the
following is taken : "She [North Carolina] was next to the
last state to secede from the Union, and in February, 1861,
she voted against secession by 30,000 majority; yet, with a
military population of 115,365, the State of North Carolina
furnished to the Confederate army 125,000 men. ... Of
(600)

§^A^4^tvyv

CIVIL WAR PERIOD 601
the ten regiments on either side which sustained the heaviest
loss in any one engagement during the war, Georgia, Ala
bama, Tennessee, Illinois, New York, Pennsylvania and New
Jersey furnished one each, and North Carolina furnished
three. North Carolina furnished from first to last one-fifth
of the entire Confederate army, and at the surrender at
Appomattox, one -half of the muskets stacked were from
North CaroUna. The last charge of the Army of Northern
Virginia under Lee was made by North Carolina troops, and
the last gun fired was by Flanner's battery from Wilming
ton, N. C. The men of North Carolina were found dead
farthest up the blood-stained slopes of Gettysburg. 40,275
soldiers from North Carolina gave their lives to the Confed
eracy — more than one third of her entire military population,
and a loss of more than double in percentage that sus
tained by the soldiers from any other state. Of this num
ber 19,678 were killed upon the field of battle or died of
wounds; and it is now a historical fact, questioned by none,
that the greatest loss sustained by any regiment on either
side during the war was that of the twenty-sixth North Caro
lina regiment at Gettysburg. 3 It carried into action 800 men
and came out with eighty, who, with torn ranks and tattered
flag, were still eager for the fray. The charge of the fifth
North Carolina regiment at Williamsburg ranks in military
history with that of the Light Brigade at Balaclava. That
charge gave the regiment and its brave and illustrious com
mander, Col. D. K. McRae, to immortality. " 2
Carved on the Confederate monument at Raleigh are these
words :
"First at Bethel, Farthest at Gettysburg and Chicka-
mauga, and last at appomattox. "
These claims are amply sustained in Vol. I, "Literary and
Historical Activities in North Carolina, 1900-1905," as fol
lows: First at Bethel, by E. J. Hale (p. 427); Farthest to
the Front at Gettysburg, by W. A. Montgomery (p. 432);
Longstreet's Assault at Gettysburg, by W. R. Bond (p. 446);
Farthest to the Front at Chickamauga, by A. C. Avery (p. 459) ;
The Last at Appomattox, by Henry A. London (p. 471) ; The
Last Capture of Guns, by E. J. Holt (p. 481), and Number of
Losses of North Carolina Troops (p. 484).

602 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Asheville a Military Center. "During the War Be
tween the States, Asheville became in a small way a military
center. 3 Confederate troops were from time to time encamped
at Camp Patton, at Camp Clingman on French Broad Ave
nue and Phillip street, on Battery Porter Hill (now called
Battery Park), at Camp Jeter (northeast and northwest cor
ners of Cherry and Flint streets), and in the vicinity of Look
out Park. Fortifications were erected on Beaucatcher, Bat
tery Porter, Woodfin street opposite the Oaks Hotel, Mont-
ford avenue near the residence of J. E. Rumbough, on the
hill near the end of Riverside drive north of T. S. Morrison's,
and on the ridge immediately east of the place where North
Main street last crosses Glenn's creek, now [1898] owned by the
children of the late N. W. Woodfin. At this last place, on
April 11th, 1865, a battle was fought between the Confeder
ate troops at Asheville and a detachment of United States
troops, who came up the French Broad river. The latter was
defeated and compelled to return into Tennessee. This was
the Battle of Asheville.
War-Time Locations in Asheville. "The Confederate
postoffice was in the old Buck Hotel building on North Main
street. The Confederate commissary was on the east side of
North Main street between the public square and College
street. This old building was afterwards removed to Patton
avenue, whence it was removed again to give way to a brick
building. The Confederate hospital stood on the grounds
afterwards occupied by the Legal building, where is now the
Citizen office. 4 The chief armories of the Confederate states
were at Richmond, Va., and Fayetteville, N. C, but there
were two smaller establishments, one at Asheville, N. C,
and the other at Tallahassee, Ala. (1 Davis's Rise and Fall
of the Confederate Government, 480.)
Confederate Armory. "The armory at Asheville was in
charge of an Englishman by the name of Riley as chief ma
chinist. It stood on the branch immediately east of where
Valley street crosses it. Here, when North Carolina was one
of the Confederate States of America, the Confederate flag
from a high flag -pole was constantly displayed. There it
floated in the breeze, and rested in the sunlight, the emblem —
Of liberty born of a patriot's dream,
Of a storm-cradled nation that fell.

CIVIL WAR PERIOD 603
"These buildings were burned by the United States troops
when they entered the town in the latter part of April, 1865."
The Flag of Bethel. The flag of Bethel was made and
presented to the Buncombe Riflemen by Misses Anna and
Lillie Woodfin, Fanny and Annie Patton, Mary Gains and
Kate Smith. It was made of their silk dresses. Miss Anna Wood
fin made the presentation speech and after the war embroidered
upon it "Bethel." It was carried by the First North Caro
lina regiment at the battle of Bethel Church, the first battle
of the Civil War.
A Hero of the Merrimac. Riley Powers of Buncombe
was a member of the crew of the "Merrimac" when she
fought the "Monitor" in Hampton Roads. He saw her
launched and witnessed her blowing up.
Lieutenant-Colonel J. A. Keith. In the spring of 1863
Lieutenant-Colonel J. A. Keith of Marshall, with part of the
64th Regiment, went to the Shelton Laurel country in Madison
county to punish those of that section who had taken part
in the looting of Marshall, which had taken place only a short
time before. At this looting men and boys from Shelton
Laurel had broken into stores and removed salt and other
property. Col. Keith captured thirteen old men and youths.
He made them sit on a log, and without having given them
even the pretense of a trial had them shot. . . . Some of
these were mere boys. The trench in which they were buried
is still shown to the curious. This section was filled with
deserters from both armies and those seeking to escape con
scription in Tennessee and North Carolina. They carried
on a sort of guerrilla warfare, and fought from rocks and
crags. But this wholesale execution instantly aroused the
indignation of the entire mountain section. Governor Vance
demanded Keith's resignation, and he was dismissed from
office in disgrace. 5 He was arrested after the Civil War and
placed in jail at Asheville; but before he could be tried in the
Circuit Court of the United States for the Western District
of North Carolina, President Johnson's proclamation of
amnesty was issued and he escaped trial altogether. In the
account of the 64th Regiment by Capt. B. T. Morris, in
"North Carolina Regiments," this act is characterized as
being too cruel. 6
Early Signs of Disaffection in the Mountains. On
the 7th of July, 1863, the General Assembly of the State pro-

604 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
vided for the organization of the Guard for Home Defence,
commonly called the Home Guard, which was to consist of all
males from 18 to 50 not in the Confederate Army, and John
W. McElroy was appointed brigadier general and placed in
command, with headquarters at Burnsville. 7 On the 12th
of April, 1864, he wrote to Gov. Vance from Mars Hill College,
where he then had his headquarters, that on the Sunday night
before a band of tories, headed by Montrevail Ray, numbering
about 75 men, had surprised the small guard he had left at Burns
ville, and broken open the magazine and removed all the arms
and ammunition. They had also broken open Brayley's
[Bailey?] store, and carried off the contents; had attacked
Captain Lyons, the local enrolling" officer, in his room, wound
ing him slightly, but allowing him to escape. They had
broken all the guns they could not carry off, taking about
100 State guns; also some bacon. On the day before, being
Saturday the 9th of April, a band of about fifty white women
of the county assembled together and marched in a body to
a store-house near David Proffitt's, where they "pressed" —
appropriated — about sixty bushels of government wheat,
which they carried off. He adds: "The county is gone up.
It has got to be impossible to get any man out there unless he is
dragged out, with but very few exceptions. There was but
a small guard there, and the citizens all ran on the first approach
of the tories. I have 100 men at this place to guard against
Kirk, of Laurel, and cannot reduce the force; and to call out
any more home guards at this time is only certain destruction
to the country eventually. In fact, it seems to me, that
there is a determination of the people in the country generally
to do no more service in the cause. Swarms of men liable to
conscription are gone to the tories or to the Yankees — some
men that you have no idea of — while many others are fleeing
east of the Blue Ridge for refuge. John S. McElroy and all
the cavalry, J. W. Anderson and many others, are gone to
Burke for refuge. This discourages those who are left be
hind, and on the back of that, conscription [is] now going on
and a very tyrannical course pursued by the officers charged
with the business, and men [are] conscripted and cleaned
out as [if] raked with a fine-toothed comb; and if any are
left, if they are called upon to do a little home-guard service,
they at once apply for a writ of habeas corpus and get off.

CIVIL WAR PERIOD 605
Some three or four cases have been tried by Judge Read the
last two weeks, and the men released. ... If something
is not done immediately for this county we will all be ruined,.
for the home-guards now will not do to depend on." 8 Thus
North Carolina, the only Southern State which did not sus
pend the writ of habeas corpus during the Civil War, was
paying the penalty.
Col. Kirk's Camp Vance Raid. On the 13th of June,
1864, Colonel Kirk, with about 130 men, left Morristown,
Tenn., and marched via Bull's Gap, Greenville and .Grab
Orchard^ Term., to Camp Vance in North CaroUna, six miles
below Morganton, "where he routed the enemy with loss to
them of one commissioned officer, and ten men killed — num
ber of wounded unknown. His own losses were one man
killed, one mortally wounded, and five slightly wounded,
including himself. He destroyed one locomotive in good
condition, three cars, the depot and commissary buildings,
1200 small arms, with amunition, and 3,000 bushels of grain.
He captured 279 prisoners, who surrendered with the camp.
Of these he brought 132 to Knoxville, with 32 negroes and 48
horses and mules. He obtained forty recruits for his regi
ment; but did not, however, accomplish his principal object:
the destruction of the railroad bridge over the Yadkin river.
He made arrangements to have it done secretly after he had
gone, but they miscarried. On July 21, 1864, Gen. Stoneman
from Atlanta thanked and complimented Col. Kirk upon
this raid; but instructed Gen. Scofield at Knoxville to encour
age Col. Kirk to organize the enemies of Jeff Davis in Western
North Carolina rather than undertake such hazardous ex
peditions."9 Details of the Expedition from the Guide. They were
afoot, carrying their rations, blankets, arms and ammunition
on their shoulders. 1 ° They had no wagons or pack animals while
going there. They reached what is now Carter county, Tenn.,
on the 25th, where they were joined by Joseph V. Franklin, who
now lives at Drexel, Burke county, N. C, who acted as guide.
They went from Crab Orchard on Doe river — the same place that
Sevier and his men had passed on their way to Kings Mountain —
crossing the Big Hump mountain and fording the Toe river
about six miles south of Cranberry forge, where they camped
near David EUis's. He was a Union man and cooked rations

606 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
for them. On the 26th they scouted through the mountains
till they came to Linville river, which they crossed about
one mile below what is now Pinola, and camped. They met
John Franklin and made him go back a few miles with them,
when they released him. The .next day they passed through
a long "stretch of mountains" * 1 and it was evening when they
got down on the eastern side; but, instead of camping then,
they pushed on, and crossing Upper creek came to the public
road leading to Morganton just at dark. This was twelve
miles from Morganton, but they marched all night, and at
daybreak got to "the conscript camp at Berry's Mill Pond,
just above what was then the terminus of the Western North
Carolina railroad. Here they formed a line of battle and sent
in a flag of truce, demanding surrender of the camp in ten
minutes, at the end of which time it capitulated without resist
ance." Accounts differ as to the number of conscripts in the
camp, Kirk's men claiming 300 and 1 2 Judge Avery giving
their number as "over one hundred of the Junior Reserves
who had been gathered there to be organized into a battalion."
Kirk "then took a few men and went down to the head of
the railroad and captured a train and the depot. We had
aimed to go to Salisbury, but the news got ahead of us, and we
gave it out . . . We had an engineer along for the pur
pose of running the locomotive and a car or two to carry us
to Salisbury, where we intended to release the Federal pris
oners confined there, arm them, and bring them back with us;
but the news of our coming had gone on ahead of us, and we
gave it out."13 "While the militia and citizens who did
not belong to the Home Guards were gathering on the day
of the capture, 28th June, one of Kirk's scouts l i was shot at
Hunting creek about half a mile from Morganton by R. C.
Pearson, a leading citizen of the town. " 1 5 Kirk then turned
back, crossed the Catawba river and camped for the night.
The next morning they resumed the march, crossing Johns
river, and came into the road leading from Morganton to
Piedmont Springs. Following this road they crossed Brown's
mountain, where they were fired into by the pursuing Con
federates. This was fourteen miles from Morganton and one
mile from the home of Col. George Anderson Loven, who was
one of the party of sixty-five men and boys who attacked
Kirk at Brown's mountain. This was about 3:00 or 3:30
p. m.

CIVIL WAR PERIOD 607
"Kirk formed a line of battle, putting fifteen or twenty
prisoners taken from Camp Vance in front. About fifty of
our men fired on Kirk's men, killing one prisoner, B. A. Bowles,
a drummer boy of Camp Vance, who was about thirty years
of age, and wounding also a boy of seventeen years of age
from Alleghany county, another one of Kirk's prisoners. Dr.
Robert C. Pearson was seriously wounded in the knee by Kirk's
men. We then retreated, but Kirk retained his position for
ten minutes after we had gone. When we fired on them I
heard Kirk shout: 'Look at the damned fools, shooting
their own men,' referring to the Camp Vance prisoners
whom he had so placed as to receive our fire. Kirk's men
had about sixty horses and mules loaded down with all the
best wearing apparel they could gather up through the country,
and all the bedding they could find, all of which they had
packed into bed ticks from which the feathers and straw had
been emptied. After our militia had withdrawn, Kirk's
men remounted, the horsemen going around the fence, and
the infantry, three hundred or more, going up through Israel
Beck's field for a near cut to the road above." 16 According
to J. V. Franklin, he, Col. Kirk and several others were
wounded at Beck's farm near Brown mountain.
"We then crossed Upper creek," continues Franklin's ac
count, "and came to the foot of Ripshin mountain and went
up the Winding Stairs road, where we took up camp for the
night." This position is near what is now called the Bark
House and only two miles from Loven's Cold Spring tavern.
They camped behind a low ridge, which commands the only
road by which the Confederates could approach, but down
which they could be enfiladed. This was twenty-one miles
from Morganton. At daybreak Kirk's pickets reported that
the Confederates were approaching, "when Col. Kirk took
twenty-five men and went back and had a fight with the pur
suing Confederates. It was here that Col. WaightstiU Avery
was wounded and several others. . . . " 1 7 According
to Joseph V. Franklin's letter, "there were twelve Cherokees
and thirteen white men * who fought Col. Avery's pursuing
party. "The fog was dense as the militia came up the road. Col.
Thomas George Walton was in command of the militia. Kirk's
men formed on a ridge and behind trees, from which position

608 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
they could enfilade the column, which had to approach by a
narrow road. Kirk's men fired on the advance files before
the main body had come up. Col. W. W. Avery, Alexander
Perry, seventeen years of age, and N. B. Beck were in front.
They fired on Kirk. Avery was mortally wounded and an
old gentleman named Philip Chandler, from Morganton,
also was mortally wounded. Col. Calvin Houck was shot
through the wrist, and Powell Benfield through the thigh,
neither wound being serious. Col. Avery died the third day
after having received the wound. There were said to have
been twelve hundred men in the militia under Col. Walton;
but only a few were in the advance when they came upon
Kirk's camp, as they were scattered for a mile or more along
the road down the mountain; and having no room in which
to form except the narrow cart-way that was enfiladed by
the enemy, they retired. Kirk went across Jonas's Ridge
unmolested, burning the residence of the late Col. John B.
Palmer as they passed about ten o'clock that morning.
Two conscripts named Jones and Andrew McAlpin had been de
tailed by the Confederate government, under the late Thomas
D. Carter, to dam Linville river just above the Falls for the
purpose of making a forge for the manufacture of iron
which was to have been hauled from Cranberry mines;
and when they heard that Kirk had passed down,
they went down Linville mountain by a trail, and sent two
teams and wagons loaded with property from the dam above
Linville Falls to follow, only they were to go by the Winding
Stairs road, the only one practicable at that time. 3 These
wagoners had gone into camp at the top of the Winding Stairs
road when Kirk and his men arrived after their fight at Beck's
farm. Of course, they were promptly captured and turned
back."18 The buildings at Camp Vance were burned.19
" There were bacon and crackers there which Kirk's men packed
on mules which they captured, and took away with them. 2 °
George Barringer was another man they met on Jonas's Ridge
and forced to go a part of the way with them, but he escaped.
The yarn thread found at Camp Vance was given to the neigh
borhood women before the camp was burned. 2 ° They got
back to Knoxville, having lost but one man (Hack Norton)
and sent their prisoners to Camp Chace in Ohio. No recruits
joined them going or returning. The distance traveled was
about two hundred miles."

CIVIL WAR PERIOD 609
W. H. Thomas and the Union Men of East Tennessee.
Col. Thomas was not a Secessionist, but claimed that any peo
ple, when denied their constitutional rights, if oppressed, always
had the right of self-defense, or revolution. It was his desire
to keep the Southern people united that induced him to enter
the Confederate army, coupled with a desire to keep the Cher
okee Indians from joining the Federal army, as some of them
had done at the commencement of the Civil War. 2 l He
wanted to keep them out of danger and to guard the moun
tain barriers from the incursions of Federal raiding parties
from the Tennessee side; for he never doubted that the Mis
sissippi valley would, sooner or later, be in the possession of
the United States troops. So, he got an order from General
Kirby Smith in the spring of 1862 to raise a battalion of sap
pers and miners, and enlisted over five hundred of the people
of East Tennessee, where the Union sentiment was predomi
nant, and put them to making roads, notably a road from
Sevier county, Tennessee, to Jackson county, N. C. This
road followed the old Indian Trail over the Collins gap, down
the Ocona Lufty river to near what is now Whittier, N. C.
He was conciliating the East Tennesseans who had joined his
sappers and miners when General Kirby Smith was trans
ferred to another field of activity. The first order of Smith's suc
cessor in command required these Union men of East Tennes
see to lay down their picks and shovels and join the Confed
erate army. In 24 hours there were 500 desertions. Then
followed the attempt to enforce the Confederate conscript
law, which drove these East Tennesseans to join the army of
General Burnside. This army soon forced Col. Thomas and
his Indians back from Strawberry Plains into the mountains
of North Carolina, and the white wing of his Legion to Bris
tol, Virginia.
Cosby Creek. After the Confederates lost possession of
East Tennessee it was the policy of the Confederate govern
ment at Richmond to guard all the passes on the Tennessee
boundary so as to keep free and clear their line of communi
cation from Richmond through Danville, Greensboro, Salis
bury and Charlotte to Columbia and the South. In order to do
so this section of the country was made into the Military Dis
trict of Western North Carolina and Brigadier General R. B.
Vance was placed in command. He had a brigade under
W. N. C— 39

610 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
his command. They succeeded in keeping the Federals under
General Burnside penned up in Knoxville, but never did dis
lodge them from that city. After Chickamauga, General Long-
street came from Virginia and drove the Federals back into
Knoxville and besieged that place. But the exigencies of Gen
eral Lee's army were such that Longstreet was ordered to
return with his army to Virginia. No sooner had Longstreet
started with his army for Richmond than Burnside followed
him, harrassing his men, and it was to draw Burnside off
that General Vance was ordered to make a demonstration by
going through Quallytown, up Ocona Lufty and through the
Collins Gap down into Tennessee. It was during a cold snap
in January, 1864, and fortunately Vance had but two or three
wagons; but he managed to take them up the mountain suc
cessfully. Still, when the artillery got to the top, following
the rough road Col. Thomas had constructed, it had a hard
time getting down the other side. The cannon were dis
mounted and dragged over the bare rocks to the bottom,
while the wheels and axles of the carriages were taken apart,
divided among the men and so carried to the foot of the moun
tain, when they were reassembled. The guns were not tied
to hollow logs, as in Napoleon's passage of the Alps, but
were dragged naked as they were down the steep mountain
side. Capt. Theo. F. Davidson had this done.
General Vance Divided His Force. After reaching the
foot of Smoky mountain on the western side, General Vance
sent Col. Thomas and his Indians and Col. J. L. Henry with
his mounted battalion to Gatlinsburg, Tennessee, and taking
with him from three to five hundred men went on toward
Seviersville. Much to his surprise, he captured an unguarded
wagon train of about eighty loaded wagons and their teams
and drivers, and immediately started back with them. When
he reached Cosby creek Meeting House he stopped his com
mand to eat dinner, but failed to put out pickets to notify
him of the approach of the enemy. It was while engaged in
eating dinner that a pursuing body of Federal cavalry dashed
upon the resting Confederates and captured many of them,
including the General himself, who was taken to Camp Chace
and kept there till the close of the war. Captain Theo. F.
Davidson, who was acting adjutant general, and Dr. I. A.
Harris, escaped by going to Big Creek and through Mount

CIVIL WAR PERIOD 61 1
Sterling gap into Haywood county, and thence to Asheville.
Others also escaped. Colonels Thomas and Henry, learning
of the fate of the rest of the expedition, returned into North
Carolina by the route they had come, and Col. Thomas' In
dians resumed their places near Ocona Lufty.
A Spartan Mother. 2 2 During the last year of the war
deserters from both armies, who generally were thieves and
murderers, banded themselves together, and were called bush
whackers. About this time three men were murdered twelve
miles from Valleytown, near Andrews, and this band of law
less men swore revenge on the best five men in this valley.
Mr. William Walker was warned of his danger, but said he
was an innocent man, and had fed out nearly everything he
had, and he would not desert his family. He was sick at the
time, and friends pleaded in vain. "On October 6, 1864, there
came to my house at 11 A. M., twenty-seven drunken men. 23
They had stopped at a still house and were nearly swearing
drunk. Dinner was just set on the table, but they did not
eat, as they were afraid they would be poisoned, but they
broke dishes from the table, and went to my cupboards, and
smashed my china and glassware. At the time Mr. Walker
was warned, I took his papers and hid them, but he was so
sure he would not be molested that he made me put them
back in his desk, but they were all taken." In spite of her
tears and his pleadings he was taken from her. She followed
with her sister the next day on horseback for fifteen miles,
beyond which her sister was afraid to go; but Mrs. Walker
went on six miles further, alone, where friends persuaded her
to return home, which she did after one of them had gone to
Long Ridge to ascertain if there were any tidings from her
husband there. Nothing was found, however, and she has
never had any satisfactory word of him since. She had
searches made by the government, the Masons, the war de
partment and others, but discovered nothing. When she got
back home she found that these thieves and thugs had stolen
nearly all her bedding, and had even taken her dead baby's
clothing, leaving not even a pin, needle or knitting needle,
and tramping her fifteen feather beds full of mud. Still,
neighbors contributed to her assistance; but it was three
years after the war closed before she could buy even a calico
dress for herself. Coley Campbell, a Methodist preacher and

612 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
a tailor, taught her to cut and make men's clothing and by
dint of hard work and strict economy and fine business man
agement she reared five boys into splendid men. She also
kept boarders and won the reputation of being the finest
housekeeper in the mountains. But she suffered : "I wept
for three years," she says in her narrative, "and two pillows
were so stiffened by salt tears that they crumbled to pieces.
My husband told a woman, Mrs. McDaniel, where he stayed
all night after his capture, that he only worried that I might
not live to raise the boys; but that if I did, he knew they would
be raised right." How nobly she carried out that prediction
is attested in the lives and characters of these sons themselves.
She died December 9, 1899.
William Johnstone. "During the last years of the war
the mountains became infested with deserters from both
armies, desperadoes, who lived in caves and dens and issued
forth for plunder and robbery. 2 * Among the number of
murders committed by these we recall three of peculiar atroc
ity. The house of Mr. Wm. Johnstone, a wealthy South
Carolinian, was entered by six men who demanded dinner;
the old gentleman set before them all that his house afforded;
after partaking of his dinner and without a word of dispute
they shot him dead in the presence of his wife and young
children. Other Outrages. "Gen. B. M. Edney, a brave man,
was shot down in his own room after making a desperate
resistance. Capt. Allen, son-in-law of Mr. Alexander Robin
son, a man of wealth and high social position, and a gallant
soldier, after the armies had surrendered, while working at a
mill near his home trying to earn bread for his wife and child,
was murdered in cold blood, and his body stripped of coat and
boots and left on the roadside."
"An Old Man, My Lord." In the fall of 1864 Levi Guy,
an old and inoffensive white man who had allowed his sons to
shelter at his home when being hunted for their robberies
in the neighborhood of Watauga Falls, was hanged by Con
federates from a chestnut tree which grew between the present
dwelling of David Reece and his barn across the State road.
The tree has disappeared. Guy lived near Watauga Falls,
just inside North Carolina. The names of those who com
mitted this act are still known, and all those who have not
died violent deaths have never prospered.

CIVIL WAR PERIOD 613
Murdered by Mistake.26 "Old Billy Devver," as
William Deaver was locally known, was killed at the old
Deaver place in Transylvania towards the close of the Civil
War. It occurred through a mistake. He had a son, James,
who was a captain in the Confederate Army and among whose
duties was that of the arrest of deserters and outliers from
the Confederate Army. He thus had incurred the enmity
of men of that class, who were called in that country by the
plain and unmistakable word "robbers." One night one
of these robbers called at the Deaver home, expecting to find
the Confederate Captain within. It seems, however, that
he was not at home, but that his father, William Deaver,
was. Therefore, when this robber called at the house and
Old Man Billy came to the door, the robber asked him if he
was Captain Deaver. He said he was, and believing that he
was the Confederate Captain for whom he was seeking, the
robber shot him dead at his own door.
Shot Their Host After Dinner. 2 6 Philip Sitton, near
the Henderson and Transylvania line, was shot down by a
party of these robbers as soon as they had finished eating a
dinner they had ordered and which Sitton had furnished.
They left him lying in his blood, believing his wound was
mortal, but he recovered.
Death of Robert Thomas. 2 6 Robert Thomas, who lived
on Willow creek in Transylvania county, was killed by these
robbers in 1864.
Jesse Leverett a Penitent. "In the time of the war
there was a very notorious character at large in this part of
the State," says Mrs. Mattie S. Candler in her history of
Henderson county, "Jesse Leverett. He was known and
feared by both sides, as he made a practice of piloting deserters
through the Federal lines to Kentucky, taking them through
here (Hendersonville) by way of Bat Cave and thence to the
Tennessee lines. He was an outlaw and a desperado with
such bold working methods that he continued this practice
throughout the war, and was not even injured. Later he
went to Illinois, discovered the error of his ways, and ended
his career as a very earnest preacher."
"A Hard Road to Travel Out of Dixie." Such was the
title of an article in the Century for October, 1890, giving a
very readable description of the escape and vicissitudes of a

614 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
party of Federal prisoners who had escaped from prison in
Columbia, S. C, and made their way to these mountains.
They passed through Transylvania county, crossed Chunky
Gal mountain between Macon and Clay and came down on
Shooting creek where they had a fright at the house of a Mr.
Kitchin. He had taken them in and was allowing them to
sit before his fire when the Confederate Home Guard appeared
on the scene, the prisoners escaping through a window. An
other story in a later Century told of another party and their
adventures on Tuckaseegee river in Jackson county. Col.
Geo. W. Kirk began his military career in the Union Army
by piloting Union men from these mountains into the Federal
lines in Tennessee.
An Underground Mountain Railroad. Just as the
Abolitionists before the Civil War had what were called "un
derground" railroads from Mason's and Dixon's line and the
Ohio river to Canada, the Union element of these mountains
had their underground railway to Kentucky and East Tennes
see from the prisons of the South in which captured Federal
soldiers were confined. T. L. Lowe, Esq., in his history of
Watauga county, prepared for this work, gives some account
of the assistance given by the late Lewis B. Banner, of Ban
ners Elk:
"He was a strong Union man and his home was the home of the
oppressed and struggling Union sympathizer trying to get through the
Federal lines in Kentucky, and many a time through great personal sac
rifice and danger did he pilot men through the mountains so as to avoid
the vigilance of the Home-guard. On one occasion he rendered valuable
services to a brave Massachusetts soldier, which services were remem
bered by the recipient for many years. The soldier's name was Major
Lawrence N. Duchesney. He had been for 13 months a prisoner in the
Libby prison, 73 days in the dungeon; was sent to Salisbury, N. C, and
from there was being transferred to Danville, Virginia, and while en
route jumped from the train and made his way across the country, and
finally, foot-sore and weary, he reached the home of Mr. Banner where
he was tenderly cared for until he was able to travel, and then Mr.
Banner, or 'Uncle Lewis' as we all are ever wont to affectionately call
him, took him on a horse at night through hidden paths through the
mountains to a place of safety. Major Duchesny some few years ago
paid the family of his deliverer a visit, but his old friend had been dead
many years. Major Duchesney had a home at Skyland, N. C, where
he and his wife lie buried. "
Alleghany During the War Between the States. 2 7
Alleghany furnished several companies during the war; one,

CIVIL WAR PERIOD 615
company F, 22d North Carolina regiment, with Jesse Reeves
as the first captain, and Company I, 61st North Carolina
regiment, with Dr. A. B. Cox as the first captain. J. H.
Doughton, later in the war, organized another company, but
when he arrived on the field of service, he found these two
companies in such a depleted condition that he disorganized
his company for the purpose of recruiting them. Alleghany
furnished a great many more soldiers beside these companies,
who served in various commands; some in Virginia, some in
Tennessee, but mostly in the 37th Virginia battalion. Com
panies F and I were constantly recruited, but when the war
was ended, there were not more than 50 or 60 men in both
companies. But Alleghany's greatest trials were caused by
deserters and bushwhackers. These men would hide in the
mountains in order to evade active service on the battlefield.
At first they seemed to have stolen only necessary food and
raiment, but later took to robbing and murdering. With
the able-bodied men in the army, the women and children
were left at their mercy. The few old men and others unable
for active service constituted a home guard, but were powerless
to cope with these desperate outlaws. Alleghany appealed to
Surry county in 1863 for aid — Surry county sent about 100
men to aid the Alleghany home guard; these men crossed the
Blue Ridge at Thompson's gap and camped at what is known
as the "Cabins." They sent four of their number to Dun
can's Mills, about five miles distant for a supply of meal.
These four men had passed Little River Church and it was almost
dark, when the robbers snatched one of their men (Jeff Gal-
yen) from his horse and hurried him off through the woods.
The other men turned their horses and hurried back to the
main body. Next morning early the whole force started in
search of Galyen and the robbers. They found neither ; and, after
hanging Levi Fender (the stump of the old sapling on which
he was hung can still be pointed out about one and one-half
miles east of Sparta), they returned home. Within a few days
Galyen was found in a few hundred yards of the place where
the robbers had disappeared with him, on his knees by a tree,
shot dead. One of the robbers, Tom Pollard, afterwards ac
knowledged to the killing, and said, he did it while Galyen
was on his knees begging for his life. It was decided by the
officers to send General Pierce with his soldiers into this sec-

616 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
tion. These soldiers scoured the country, captured a num
ber of the robbers and carried them to Laurel Springs, where
a number of them were hung. Among those hung, were Lewis
Wolfe and Morgan Phipps. Later Hoke's cavalry was sent
into the county, but still robbery, murder and lawlessness
continued. In October, 1864, the fight at "Killen's Branch" took place.
This is about one mile Northwest of Sparta, on the main road
leading from Sparta to Mouth of Wilson, Virginia. Here the
Home Guard was ambushed by a band of bushwhackers under
Henry Taylor. The bushwhackers were concealed in a dense
ivy thicket by the roadside and fired upon the Home Guard
as they were passing. The Home Guard promptly returned
the fire. The fighting continued for some time, when both
sides withdrew. Of the Home Guard, Felix Reeves was
killed and Wiley Maxwell, Jesse Reeves and Martin Crouse
were mortally wounded. This was the last fight of any im
portance between the outlaws and the Home Guard.
A Civil War Joan of Arc. It was in this fight that Mrs.
Cynthia Parks, wife of Col. James H. Parks, then living in
Sparta, who, when she heard the firing and saw the horses,
of the wounded men running loose through the streets of the
town, mounted her horse and rode to the scene of the com
bat, in order that she might render what aid she could to the
wounded Home Guard. Later on the same day she brought
the mail into Sparta. The mail carrier had been fired upon
and had deserted his mail. She went to the place where the
mail had been left and brought it to the postoffice.
During Reconstruction, Alleghany did not suffer from car
pet-bag misrule as did some of the other counties of the
State, owing, probably, to the small number of negroes in
the county, and to the fact that most of the outlaws had fled.
But still, we find instances where such men as Captain J. H.
Doughton and Jesse Bledsoe, the first sheriff of the county,
were dragged before the court. Feudalism must not have ex
isted to such a great extent as elsewhere in the South, for
J. C. Jones, who was sheriff of the county during the war,
continued to be sheriff under the provisional government.
In Haywood County. Owing to the remoteness of Cata
loochee creek in Haywood county, raiding parties from both
armies figured extensively hereabouts during the Civil War,

CIVIL WAR PERIOD 617
and several soldiers were killed along the roadsides, among
them being Manson Wells of Buncombe, while Lewis Williams,
who was with him, escaped. Two men named Groomes and
Mitchell Caldwell were killed just above the point where the
Mount Sterling and Little Cataloochee roads join. Henry
Barnes was killed one mile east of Big creek. Levi Shelton
and Ellsworth Caldwell were killed in 1863 on Caldwell Fork,
between the McGee house and the gap of the mountain be
hind Harrison Caldwell's. Solomon Groomes killed a man
named Townshend on Big Creek in 1861 or 1862 with an ax,
on account of his daughter's relations with Townshend, and
although he pleaded insanity, he was hanged just west of the
bridge across Richland creek, and near the present passenger
depot at Waynesville, in 1862.
Watauga's Experiences. When, on March 28, 1865, Stone-
man came into Boone he was fired on from the upper story of the
house now occupied by Mr. J. D. CounciU, opposite the present
Blair Hotel, and his men then killed the following: Ephraim
Morris, J. Warren Greene, J. M. CounciU, and wounded Sheriff
McBride, Thomas Holder, Calvin Greene, W. W. Gragg and
John Brown. Two days later Kirk's men came into Boone
and" fortified the court house, which then stood where Frank
A. Linney, Esq., now resides, by cutting loop-holes in
the walls, and erecting a stockade made of timbers from a
partly finished building which then stood where the Blair
Hotel now stands and a house which then stood near the
present Blackburn Hotel. He remained in Boone till Stone-
man returned, when he, too, left. He also fortified Cook's
gap and Blowing Rock, cutting the trees away from the
road leading up the mountain. He also arranged to signal
from mountain-top to mountain-top from Butler, Term., to
Blowing Rock. Fort Hill at Butler is still visible, and was
one of his fortified posts. When Stoneman's men got to Pat
terson, Clem Osborne of North Fork was there after thread,
and the Federals chased him to the top of the factory, firing
on him as he ran. Just as he was about to be overtaken he gave a
sign which was recognized by a Mason among his pursuers,
and his life was not only spared but he was sent back home
with his team and wagon and all that properly belonged to
him. The people of Beaver Dams had a particularly trying
time with the outliers, and many are the harrowing experi-

618 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
ences they were forced to undergo for nearly three years.
When salt got scarce during the war men cut small hickory
saplings from one to two inches in diameter and bound them
into bundles and took them by wagon to the Salt Works in
Virginia and traded them for salt, the hickories being split
and made into hoops for barrels. After the close of the war
Union people sued the more prosperous of their neighbors on
the border of Watauga and Tennessee for damages for killing,
wounding and arresting Union marauders, and in most cases
lost, though the expenses of the litigation were ruinous to the
Southern men who won. Among those sued were Commodore
Perry, father of J. K. Perry of Beaver Dams, and Thomas
Dougherty of Dry Run, Johnson county, Tenn.
Bushwhacker Kirkland. Between Yellow creek and
the Little Tennessee in Graham county as it now exists used
to live two men by the name of Kirkland, one of whom came
to be called before the end of the Civil War, "Bushwhacker"
Kirkland, and the other " Turkey-Trot " John Kirkland. They
joined the Confederate Army at the commencement of the
Civil War, but soon afterwards found themselves members
of an independent command which was frequently accused
of committing certain depredations upon the property of
certain Union-loving citizens living in East Tennessee and in
the neighborhood of the Great Smoky mountains. According
to John Denton of Santeetla, who had been in their company
when they were in the regular Confederate Army, they were
brave men physically.
Captain Lyon's Raid. During the expiring days of the
Civil War Captain Lyon of the United States Army came
from Tennessee through what is now known as the Belding
Trail to Robbinsville, Graham county. That trail was then
known as the Hudson trail from the name of the man who
first lived where David Orr now lives on Slick Rock creek;
but the trail itself had been used by the Cherokees for years
when the first white people came to that section. Lyon's
men killed Jesse Kirkland, a kinsman of "Bushwhacker" and
"Turkey-Trot John," and two other men, one of whom was
named Mashburn and the other Hamilton; and probably
two or three others. This was done on Isaac Carringer's
creek, about half a mile from its mouth. They killed an
Indian in Robbinsville, which was then or had recently been

CIVIL WAR PERIOD 619

the home of Junaluska, the Indian chieftain; and then
went up Santeetla, where they spent the night, returning
the next day to the Unaka mountains and camping that night
on the Bob Stratton Meadow.
Col. Kirby Driven Back. From "The Last Ninety Days
of the War, " chapter XVI, by Mrs. Cornelia Phillips Spencer,
we learn that during the second week of April, 1865, a brigade
of infantry under Col. Kirby was moved by the Federals from
Greenville, Tenn., on Asheville, but were met near Camp
Woodfin — now Doubleday — by a part of Gen. J. G. Martin's
command, and so successfully repulsed that they turned about
at once and returned to Greenville.
Generals Martin and Gillam Agree. "When it was
found that General Gillam intended to take Asheville Gen.
Martin ordered his whole command, consisting of the 62d, 64th
and 69th North Carolina, and a South Carolina battery (Por
ter's) and Love's regiment of Thomas's Legion, to the vicin
ity of Swannanoa gap. ... Love's regiment reached the
gap before Gillam did," fortified it and repulsed him.
After vainly trying to effect a passage here Gen. Gillam moved
to Hickory Nut gap. Palmer's brigade was ordered to
meet them there; but Gen. Martin, giving an account of this
affair, adds, "I regret to say the men refused to go." They
had heard rumors of Lee's surrender. Porter's battery hav
ing been ordered to Greenville, S. C, was captured on the
road there by Gen. Gillam. On Saturday April 22, Gen.
Martin received news of Gen. Johnston's armistice with Gen.
Sherman, and sent two flags of truce to Gen. Gillam, one of
which met him on the HendersonviUe road, six miles south
of Asheville, on Sunday. At an interview between Generals
Gillam and Martin, Monday, it was agreed that the former
should proceed with his command to Tennessee and that he
should be furnished with three days' rations. Gen. Gillam
reached Asheville on the 25th and with his staff dined with
Gen. Martin. The 9,000 rations were furnished him, and
that night his command camped a few miles below Asheville,
afterwards going on to Tennessee. Col. Kirk and staff had
dashed into town while it was in possession of Gen. Gillam's
troops, but perfect order was preserved while they were there,
and they "were compelled to leave in advance of General
Gillam." The People of Asheville had the mortification of

620 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
seeing the guns of Porter's battery, that had guarded the
crest of what is now Battery Park hill, just captured, driven
through by negroes. Following the Federal army was an
immense train of plunder, animals of all sorts, household
goods and treasures.
"Tuesday night passed quietly. The town was guarded
only by Captain Teague's company. A small party of Fed
erals, under flag of truce, passed through during the 26th,
carrying dispatches to General Palmer, then approaching
from Morganton via Hickory Nut gap. At sunset on the
26th, Gen. Brown, in command of a portion of the same troops
that had just passed through with Gillam, suddenly reentered
the place, capturing all the officers and soldiers, and giving up the
town to plunder. The men captured were paroled to go home,
the officers to report to Gen. Stoneman at Knoxville." This
was within 24 hours after General Gillam had assured Gen.
Martin that he would give him the forty-eight hours' notice
provided for in the Johnston - Sherman truce before renewing
hostilities. The residences of Gen. Martin, Mrs. James W.
Patton, Judge Bailey, Dr. Chapman, a Presbyterian minister,
and others were pillaged. The author adds: "The Tenth
and Eleventh Michigan regiments certainly won for themselves
in Asheville that night a reputation that should damn them
to everlasting fame. ... On Thursday, parties scoured
the country in all directions, carrying on the work of plunder
and destruction. On Friday they left, having destroyed all
the arms and ammunition they could find and burned the
armory. On Friday afternoon, they sent off the officers
they had captured under a guard," but Gen. Brown refused
to leave a guard behind for the protection of the town from
marauders. On the 28th Gen. Palmer sent a dispatch from
some point on the Hickory Nut gap road releasing Gen. Mar
tin, his officers and men who had been captured by Gen.
Brown, because Brown had not given the promised notice of
the termination of the armistice. General Palmer also pre
vented two negro regiments in Yancey from entering Asheville.
General Palmer's Dispatch. Following is the dispatch
referred to :
Headqtjartebs East Tennessee Cavalry Division,
Hickory Nut Gap Road,
April 28, 1865.
General : — I could not learn any of the particulars of your capture
and that of Colonel Palmer and other officers and men at Asheville on

CIVIL WAR PERIOD 621
the 26th, and as my troops at that point were obliged to leave immedi
ately, there was no time to make the necessary investigation. I there
fore ordered your release on a parole of honor to report to General Stone-
man. On further reflection I have come to the conclusion that our men
should have given you, under all the circumstances, notice of the termi
nation of the armistice, and that in honor we cannot profit by any fail
ure to give this notice. You will therefore please inform all the officers
and soldiers paroled by General Brown last evening and this morning,
under the circumstances above referred to, that the parole they have
given (which was by my order) is not binding, and that they may con
sider that it was never given. Regretting that your brother officers and
yourself should have been placed in this delicate situation, I am, gen
eral, very respectfully your obedient servant, Wm. J Palmer,
Brevet Brig. Gen. Commanding.
To Brig. Gen. J. G. Martin, Asheville.
Perry Gaston Brings First News. J. P. Gaston of
Hominy walked all the way from Appomattox and showed
his parole. This was nearly three weeks after Lee's surrender.
Stoneman was besieging Asheville on the South and Kirk's
regiment on the north. Gen. Martin went out under a flag
of truce and made an agreement to furnish three days' rations
to the Federal troops — and furnished them — on condition that
they should not disturb private or public property.
General James Green Martin. He was the son of Dr.
William Martin and Sophia Dange, and was born at Eliza
beth City, N. C, February 14, 1819. He entered West Point
in July, 1836, was graduated in July, 1840, and was commissioned
a second lieutenant of the First regiment U. S. Artillery. In
1842 he served on the frontier of Canada in the Aroostock
War, or "War of the Maps," and married at Newport, Rhode
Island, July 12, 1844, Miss Mary Ann Murray Reed, a great
granddaughter of George Reed, a signer of the Declaration of
Independence, and also of Gen. William Thompson, a brigadier
general of the Revolutionary army. During the three days'
assault on Monterey, Mexico, September 21, 22, 23, 1846, he
was still a second lieutenant, but he was in command of his
battery, with "Stonewall" Jackson as his second in command.
At Cherubusco, August 20, 1847, his right arm was shot off.
He turned over his command to Jackson, and taking his
sleeve in his teeth, rode off the field. He was brevetted major
for "gallant and meritorious conduct" at the battles of Con-
treras and Cherubusco, and presented with a sword of honor

622 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
by the citizens of Pasquotank county, on which were en
graved the battles in which he had taken part. He was then
transferred to the staff and appointed assistant quartermaster
and stationed at Fortress Monroe, Philadelphia and Gover
nor's Island for several years, when he was ordered to Fort
Snelling, Minnesota, where Mrs. Martin died. February 8,
1858, he was married to Miss Hetty King, a sister of Gen. Rufus
King of the U. S. Army, and eldest daughter of Charles King,
president of Columbia College, New York, and the grand
daughter of Rufus King, the first American minister to the
court of St. James. He was a member of the Utah expedi
tion with Gen. Albert Sydney Johnston, and was at Fort Riley,
Kansas territory, when the Civil War began. He resigned
when North Carolina seceded, and served in this State and
in Virginia till the close of hostilities. Penniless after the
close of the war he read law and commenced its practice in
Asheville in copartnership with the late Judge J. L. Bailey.
He died and was buried at Asheville, October 4, 1879.
Lewis M. Hatch. This distinguished citizen and soldier
served in South Carolina during part of the Civil War, and,
hence, is not mentioned in the records of "North Carolina
Regiments." He was born November 28, 1815, at Salem,
N. H., but went to Charleston, S. C, in 1833. He joined the
Washington Light Infantry, April 15, 1835, and served with
that company in 1837 in the Seminole War. He was pro
moted to the captaincy of that company in 1855, and in 1856
he marched his company to Cowpens, which trip resulted in
1876 in the erection of the Daniel Morgan monument at Spartan
burg. He was an expert swordsman, an athlete, and walked
from Charleston to New York, when a young man, in thirty
days, averaging 30 miles a day. On the last day he walked
60 miles. Gov. Pickens appointed him quartermaster gen
eral in 1860, and the fine service from then till 1865 was due
to him. In 1861-62 he commanded the 21st South Carolina
Infantry. To him was largely due the victory at Secession-
ville in June, 1862. He served subsequently in Virginia. In
March, 1866, he moved to Asheville, where he died January
12, 1897. While living in Charleston he was in the commis
sion business.
Colonel James Thomas Weaver. He was the youngest
son of Jacob Weaver and Elizabeth Siler Weaver. He was

CIVIL WAR PERIOD 623
born near Weaverville, Buncombe county, North Carolina,
on November 30th, 1828. He received such education as the
schools of that section would then afford. Later he attended
the Burnsville Academy in Yancey county and prepared him
self for civil engineering. May 24, 1855, he married Hester
Ann Trotter, a daughter of William Trotter of Person county,
N. C, but prior to the marriage of Hester Ann, William Trot
ter with his family moved to Macon county in the year 1846.
During the seven years after his marriage, and prior to his
enlistment in the army of the Confederacy, James Thomas
Weaver was actively engaged in farming and as a surveyor
of lands. During this interval he acquired a comfortable com
petency, consisting of lands, etc., and was considered a
thrifty and progressive man in his community. He enlisted
in the army early in 1862 as captain of Company A, which he
organized, and this company was assigned to the Sixtieth
North Carolina regiment. In 1864 he was made lieutenant
colonel of this regiment. He served in the Army of Tennessee
throughout the war, or until his death. He was in command
of the Sixtieth regiment in the second battle near Murfrees-
boro, Tennessee, occurring between the armies of Hood and
Thomas. He was killed in this engagement on December 7th,
1864. Colonel Edward F. Lovill. He was born in Surry county,
February 10, 1842, married Miss Josephine Marion of the same
county February 15, 1866, and moved to Boone in 1874. He
was admitted to the bar in February 1885, and was commis
sioner to the Chippewa Indians from 1893 to 1897. He was
captain of Company A of the 28th North Carolina Infantry,
and on the second day of Chancellorsville commanded that
regiment in the absence of Col. Samuel D. Low. Of this
incident Col. Lowe reported: "While absent, Gen. Stuart
again commanded the line forward, and my regiment charged
through the same terrible artillery firing the third time, led
by Captain (Edward F.) Lovill of Company A, to the support
of our batteries which I had just got into position on the hill
from which those of the enemy had been driven. " 2 9 Captain
Lovill had commanded the same regiment during the mid
night attack of the night before. Upon the death of Col.
Asbury Speer at Reems Station and the resignation of Major
Samuel Stowe, Captain Lovill was senior officer of the 28th

624 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
till the surrender at Appomattox; and commanded the regi
ment at the battle of Jones' farm near Petersburg in the fall
of 1864, where he was severely wounded. He returned to
duty in March, 1865, and was recommended for promotion
to the colonelcy of his regiment at the time that James Line-
berger was recommended for the lieutenant - colonelcy and
George McCauley for the majority, but the end came before
these appointments were published. He was wounded in
the right arm at Gettysburg. At Fredericksburg "Captain
Lovill, of Company A, the right company of the regiment,
stood on the railroad track all the time, waving his hat and
cheering his men; and neither he nor Martin (who had just shot
down the Federal color bearer) was struck." 2 9 Soon after the
battle of Jericho Ford, in September, 1864, Natt Nixon, a seven
teen-year-old boy of Mitchell's river, Surry, was desperately
wounded, and at night Captain Lovill and Private M. H.
Freeman, a cobbler of Dobson, went to get him, as he had
been left within the enemy's lines. They called him and he
answered, saying the Federals were between him and them,
but had been to him and given him water. Freeman put
down his gun and accoutrements and shouting in a loud voice
"Natt, I'm coming after you. I am coming unarmed, and any
man who shoots me is a damned coward," started. It was night,
but no one fired at him, and he brought his stricken comrade
back to Captain Lovill; but the poor boy died near a farm house
to which he had been borne before daylight. Colonel Lovill
is a director of the Oxford Orphanage, having been appointed
by Gov. Aycock. He is chairman of board of trustees of the
Appalachian Training School and a lawyer of ability.
Major Harvey Bingham. In the winter of 1864-65, the
Home Guard battalion of Watauga was camped on Cove
creek near what is now Sugar Grove, the name of their camp
having been Camp Mast. Harvey Bingham was the major,
and Geo. McGuire, who had been absent from the county for
a long while before his return and election, was captain of
Company A. Jordan Cook was captain of Company B, of
which Col. W. L. Bryan of Boone was first lieutenant. Major
Bingham and his adjutant, J. P. Mathewson, left camp to go
to Ashe to confer with Captain McMillan, who commanded
a cavalry company there, about cooperating with his battal
ion in a raid he then contemplated. During his absence

CIVIL WAR PERIOD 625
Company B, under command of Lieut. Bryan, was camped
at Boone; and Captain McGuire sent him word about dark
that he expected an attack on Camp Mast that night. Lieut.
Bryan, however, did not start for that place till the following
morning, and when he got near it, discovered the cabins in
smoking ruins and all of Company A absent. McGuire had
surrendered them to Col. Champion of the Federal Army the
night before. They were taken to Camp Chace and kept
till the close of the war. It is said, however, that McGuire
was not treated as a prisoner, but was allowed a horse and
rode away with the officers to whom he had surrendered his
men. It was thought at the time that McGuire had betrayed his
men to the enemy, and he certainly had surrendered them under
the protest of many of his subordinate officers; one of whom,
Paul Farthing, told him that if the company was sur
rendered Farthing's life would be surrendered, meaning that
he would not survive captivity. He, and a nephew who was
surrendered with him, shortly afterwards died in Camp Chace.
After the war Major Bingham was a candidate for the State
senate before a democratic convention held at Lenoir, and the
late W. B. Farthing stated that Bingham was suspected of
complicity with McGuire in the surrender of the troops at
Camp Mast, and that if he was nominated the people of Wa
tauga would not support him. This led to his defeat and
there was talk of a duel between these two; but both decided
it was best to leave the issue to the future rather than to two
leaden bullets, and the matter was dropped. But feeling
still ran high against Major Bingham, and he and his wife,
a daughter of John B. Miller of Wilkes, left Watauga together
and rode on horseback to one of the western counties, where
they taught school till a better feeling pervaded their home
county, when they returned. He soon removed to States-
ville, where he studied law and practiced law. He died
there, a respected citizen and able lawyer, and time has fully
vindicated his memory of the unjust suspicion that once drove
him from his home; and no one now doubts his entire loyalty
to the cause of the Southern Confederacy.
Post-Bellum Troubles. Soon after the surrender de
serters from both armies committed depredations in and near
Jefferson. The citizens of Jefferson sent a delegation to
Salisbury for protection, and returned soon afterward with
W. N. C— 10

626 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Captain Wills of New York, who organized a home guard
in every voting precinct. Union and Confederate soldiers
who had served honorably were admitted, but their ranks
were closed to deserters from each army. Jonathan Osborne
was made captain of the North Fork company. Order was
soon restored but not before 40 or 50 of these deserters had
started into Jefferson, the leader of whom carried a United
States flag. They came up Helton street, but when opposite
the jail they were met by Joshua Baker, who had been sheriff.
Single-handed and alone, he seized the flag, and and swore
that no such gang of horse-thieves should disgrace it by carry
ing it. His brother, Zack Baker, stood near and told him
to hold on to the flag. These two intrepid men cowed the
band of outlaws and the flag was yielded up and given into
the keeping of a Union man. Zach Baker was equally brave,
and no deserter ever entered his dwelling near Creston till
negro soldiers belonging to the regular United States army
came at the close of hostilities and did some pilfering. Mr.
Baker had sent word to these white marauders that he was
waiting for them with a welcome they would not soon forget.
They tried to take some of his horses once, but he defied them
to do so; and on another occasion, after they had secretly
stolen a few horses, he followed them to Tennessee, identified
the horses as his property, and took them back with him in
spite of the threats of the robbers to kill him.
NOTES.
iSee Vol. I, " Literary and Historical Activities in N. C, 1900-1905," pp. 427 to 484.
aFrom The Morning Post, Raleigh, May 11, 1904.
aCo. A of this regiment went from Ashe county, and the "Wilkes Volunteers" from
Wilkes. Z. B. Vance was its first colonel, but was soon elected governor of the State.
8From "Asheville's Centenary."
*The New Legal Building, the finest office building in the city, stands there now.
6See Governor Vance's Correspondence, 1863.
GStatements of Gen. James M. Ray and Judge J. C. Pritchard.
'Literary and Historical Activities in N. C, Vol. I, p. 485.
"Series 1, Vol. LIII, p. 326, Rebellion Records.
•Condensed from Rebellion Records, Series 1, Vol. XXXIX, p. 232. The guide, J. V.
Franklin, says Kirk had only 130 men; but J. C. Chappell, who was with Kirk also, says
he had 300 whites and 26 Indians. Wm. Blalock, who saw them at Strawberry Plains, says
Kirk had 200 men. The official report says the number was 130. It was supposed by the
people of Burke that Kirk intended to take an engine and car and go to Morganton and
release and arm the Federal prisoners there.
"According to Wm. Blalock, Kirk's men passed through Crab Orchard, and went up
Chucky river, passing through Limestone cove, and crossing the mountain at Miller's gap,
two miles from Montezuma, then called Bull Scrape. They then got to the Clark settle
ment, two and one-half miles from Montezuma, and camped there in a pine thicket. Next
day they passed through the Barrier Settlement on Jonas's Ridge.
"Letter of J. V. Franklin to J. P. A., March 2, 1912.
>2From Judge A. C. Avery's account in Vol. IV, N. C. Regiments.
1SJ. V. Franklin's letter before quoted.
14Hack Norton of Madison county, N. C, was his name, according to same letter.
16Judge Avery's account, before quoted.
i 'Statement of Col. George Anderson Loven to J. P. A. at Cold Spring tavern, near
Jonas's Ridge postoffice, N. C, June, 1910.
"J. V. Franklin's letter before quoted.

CIVIL WAR PERIOD 627

l8Col. G. A. Loven's statement before quoted.
19Col. George W. Kirk was born in Greene county, Tenn., June 25, 1837, and died at
Gilroy, Calit., February 15, 1905.
Z0J. V. Franklin's letter before quoted.
21Captain James W. Terrell in The Commonwealth, Asheville, June 1, 1893.
"From an account written by Mrs. Margaret Jane Walker, wife of Wm. Walker. She
was born March 15, 1826. Married October 15, 1844.
"Ibid."From the "Woman's Edition" of the Asheville Citizen, Nov. 28, 1895, by Miss Fanny
L. Patton. "Related by Judge G. A. Shuford.
"Ibid. 27By S. F. Thompson, clerk of the court, Sparta, N. G.
"Series I, Vol. XXV, Part 1, Rebellion Records.
"Vol. II, N. C. Regiments, 1861-65, p. 475.

CHAPTER XXVIII
POLITICAL
In the Days of Good "Queen Bess." On the 16th
day of July, 1584, Sir Walter Raleigh's colony landed on
Roanoke Island, and took formal possession of the country
in the name of the Queen. No day more prophetic of the love
of individual Uberty, and no more gallant leader could have
been found for the beginning of a people who afterwards"
fought at Alamance, drafted the Mecklenburg "Resolves,"
and "framed the first written compact that, west of the
mountains, was writ for the guidance of liberty's feet. " 1 The
first colony was lost; but others followed, and on the 18th
day of August, 1585, Virginia Dare became the first of that
sweet and gentle galaxy of beautiful and exemplary women
who have made North CaroUna what it is today. In 1663,
by a grant from King Charles II, all the country lying be
tween the Pacific and Atlantic oceans, and included within
the 31st and 36th parallels of north latitude, was given to cer
tain men, and William Drummond was appointed governor
of the colony of CaroUna. North CaroUna, the State, was
modest, therefore, when, after the Revolutionary War, she
claimed all territory west of the mountains to the Missis
sippi only. "In 1690 that portion of the province lying north
of the Santee river was styled North Carolina, and the four
southern counties were called South Carolina. From this pe
riod began that long series of oppressions and grievances which
finally culminated in the overthrow of the British and the
establishment of the independence of the colony.
Clarendon. "In 1729 this territory would have been em
braced in the county of Clarendon. 2 At this time the
county of New Hanover, with indefinite western boundaries
which seem to have extended to the Pacific Ocean, then called
the South Seas, was formed, and the name of Clarendon as
a county disappears. From New Hanover county in 1738
was cut off and erected the county of Bladen, whose western
limits were left undefined. Again from the county of Bladen
was formed in 1749 the county of Anson, still with undefined
western limits. Here Buncombe's genealogy divides into two
(628)

Jtf^Z,

POLITICAL 629

branches, to be united again in her own creation. That por
tion of her territory which was taken from Burke may be
traced from this point as follows. In 1758 Rowan county
was formed from a part of Anson county, and up to the be
ginning of the Revolutionary War continued in its entirety.
In 1777 was formed from its western portion a new county
called Burke.
Buncombe's Ancestry. " That portion of Buncombe county
which was taken from Rutherford may be traced as follows :
In 1762 was formed from the western part of the county of
Anson a new county called in honor of the new queen of
England, Princess Charlotte of Mecklenburg, by the name of
Macklenburg county. In 1768 the western part of Mecklen
burg county was erected into a new county, and named in
honor of North Carolina's notorious Colonial governor, Tryon
county, but during the struggle for independence the North
Carolinians were but little disposed to honor the name of
their former oppressor, and when in 1779 this county had be
come inconveniently large, it was formed into two new coun
ties, and the name of Tryon dropped, and the eastern part
called Lincoln, while the western portion received the name of
Rutherford county, in honor of Gen. Griffith Rutherford."
Locke's Constitution. It is frequently forgotten that for
several years the colony of Carolina was governed by Locke's
"grand model" constitution; and but a few lawyers know
that it is set forth in full in the second volume of the revised
Statutes (1837) North Carolina, where can also be found
that much vaunted but little known "palladium" of our lib
erties, "Magna Carta." Locke's plan provided that these
backwoodsmen were to have "two kinds of nobles put over
them : greater nobles, who were called landgraves; and lesser
nobles, who were named casiques. The head of the nobles
was to be called Palatine. " 3
The Edenton Tea Party. In Edenton on October 25,
1774, fifty-one ladies crowded into the home of Mrs. Eliza
beth King and signed an agreement to do all in their power
to carry out the wishes of the New Bern convention, and de
clined to allow any more English tea to be served on their
tables. 4
The Revolution. In 1773, John Harvey, Speaker, laid
before the House of Commons appeals from several other

630 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
colonies for its concurrence in the appointment of a committee
to enquire into the wrongs imposed by England on the colo
nists. In August, 1774, the Assembly or Congress met at
New Bern, in defiance of the proclamation and denunciation of
royal authority. It endorsed the plan for a general congress
in Philadelphia in September following. In February, 1775,
John Harvey issued a call for the Assembly to meet at New
Bern on the 4th of the following April, and a notice to the
people to send delegates to a convention to be held at the
same time and place. On the 20th of May, 1775, the people
of Mecklenburg adopted a declaration of independence, a copy
of which was sent to the Continental Congress at Philadelphia.
Governor Martin, the royal governor, fled and the provi
sional congress met at Hillsboro on the 20th of August, 1775,
and adopted measures for offensive and defensive warfare. On
the 4th of April, 1776, the provincial congress met at Halifax,
and on the 12th of that month expressed the readiness of the
people to declare their independence of the Crown, appoint
ing a committee of safety, with Cornelius Harnett as chair
man. On the 12th of November, 1776, a convention of the
people adopted a constitution, which provided for a legisla
ture, judiciary, etc., and the election of the governor by the
Legislature. " 5
Seeds of Sectionalism. Most of the population was in
the east and this constitution provided that each county
should have two members of the House of Commons, as the
popular branch was called, and one Senator. But, with the
rapid settlement of the western part of the State, dissatis
faction arose, and as early as 1790 efforts were made to rem
edy this uneven representation. By 1818 the feeling had
grown so intense that there was talk of a separation into two
States. 6 The western members wanted the members from
each county to correspond to the number of inhabitants, and
demanded that the governor be elected by the people direct.
Largely through the efforts of David L. Swain, then governor,
the question of calling a State convention was left to a vote
of the people and adopted by 5,856 majority. 6
Early Legislation. In the " Laws of North CaroUna," as
revised by Henry Potter, J. L. Taylor and Bart. Yancey, Esqs.,
in two volumes, published in 1821, is found provision for
entry takers and surveyors, establishing courts (1777) and

POLITICAL 631

regulating proceedings therein, directing methods of electing
members of the legislature, to encourage the building of pub
lic mills (ch. 122); making parts of Surry county and of
"the District of Washington, now a part of Tennessee,
into Wilkes county (ch. 127); while chapter 154, laws
of 1779, prohibits hunting deer in night time with
guns and fire-light;7 chapter 212, laws of 1784, pro
hibits killing deer in woods on the east side of the Ap
palachians between the 20th of February and 15th of
August, but permitting the slaughter to continue to the west.
Chapter 227, laws of 1784, empowers the county courts of pleas
and quarter sessions to order the laying out of public roads.
Chapter 201 of the laws of 1784 describes the lands granted to
General Nathanael Greene (acts of 1782) to be laid off by Ab
salom Tatum, Isaac Shelby and Anthony Bledsoe, beginning on
the south bank of the Duck river. That is now a part of Maury
county, Tenn. Chapter 123, laws of 1777, provides a penalty
for burning or setting fire to woods. Haywood's Manual,
p. 377, provides for the enrollment (with certain excepted
classes) of all males between 18 and 45 years of age, fixes
penalties for failing to attend musters, gives such members of
the militia free passage over all ferries, and exempts them from
working roads on muster days. The confiscation of lands belong
ing to all who took up arms against the United States is pro
vided for (ch. 17, laws of 1777), while chapter 2, laws of 1779,
gives a list of those whose lands have been forfeited (Haywood's
Manual, p. 123). Military land warrants were provided for
in ch. 18, laws of 1741 (Haywood's Manual, p. 448), and on
page 450 is found the requirement that prisons shall contain
a criminals' room, a debtors' room, a female prisoners' room
and a negroes' room.
Prisons in Towns and Country. But in the year of our
Lord, one thousand nine hundred and twelve there appeared
in an Asheville daily newspaper the following:8
"'I have been visiting these places for five years,' said Mr. Crab
tree. T have been urging that North Carolina do away with the chains
and establish the merit system. The convicts need help. The work needs
evangelists, chaplains. The prisoners have no encouragement.'
" One of the Buncombe road camps, that in lower Hominy, was vis
ited. The officials were found to be kindly and courteous. The objec
tionable double bunk system is used. White and negro prisoners are
kept together, 22 men packed in a 30 by eight feet iron cage. Sanitary
conditions are very poor as to bed clothing."

632 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
There are also laws concerning runaways, slaves, free
negroes and mulattoes.
Confiscation. The act of 1779 (ch. 153, p. 384, Potter's
Revisal) refers to an act of 1777 for the confiscation of the
property of all persons inimical to "this or the United States,"
and provides methods for carrying that act into effect. A
list of those whose property is declared forfeited, comprising
almost an entire page, is given.
Financial Legislation. In 1783 (ch. 185, p. 435) the
legislature declared that "the opening of the land office and
the granting of lands within the State would not only redeem
the specie and other certificates due from (doubtless meaning
'to') the public, but greatly enhance the credit thereof (sic)."
In 1783 (ch. 187) a table was given showing the scale by which
to determine the value of the depreciation of paper currency,
estimated in specie; and a "table of coins," giving the value
in North Carolina currency of a guinea, a half-guinea, a French
guinea, a moidore, a four pistole piece, a pistole, a double
Johannes, French and English crowns, a dollar, a pistareen
and a shilling.
Washington District and County. In 1777 (ch. 126,
p. 349) the State recognized the "late district of Wash
ington," the old Watauga Settlements, by erecting it into
a new and distinct county by the name of Washing
ton county. It was to begin at the most northwesterly
part of Wilkes, on the Virginia line, and run south 36 miles;
then west to the ridge of the Great Iron mountains;
thence southwestwardly to the Unicoy mountain where the
trading path crosses, and then south to the South Carolina
line, and then due west to the "great river Mississippi, then
up the river to a point due west from the beginning." Thus,
Washington county embraced what is now Tennessee.
For the Relief of Moravians, Quakers, Mennonites
and Dunkards. In 1780 (ch. 166, p. 406) an act was passed
which recited that as an act had been already passed which
required all persons to take an oath of allegiance to the State
or be sent out of it, and deprived of civil rights therein, which
oath certain persons "pretended " the Mennonites, Quakers, etc.,
etc., had not taken, and had, under this pretext, entered upon
and were then claiming the lands of those sects, it was enacted
that all such entries and proceedings thereon should be null
.and void.

POLITICAL 633

Formation of First Counties. In 1791 Buncombe was
formed from Burke and Rutherford counties; in 1799 (Laws
of N. C, p. 98) Ashe was formed, and it is the shortest act of
the kind on record: "all that part of the county of Wilkes
lying west of the extreme height of the Appalachian moun
tains shall be, and the same is hereby erected into a separate
and distinct county by the name of Ashe." In 1808 Hay
wood was formed out of the western part of Buncombe, and
it extended to the Tennessee line. The formation of these
three counties required an interval of about ten years between
each. Then followed the dead-lock of twenty years, extend
ing to 1828, when Macon was allowed to become a county,
it having been taken from Haywood. Yancey was formed
in 1833, out of Burke and Buncombe. It had thus taken
forty-two years to get five counties west of the Blue Ridge.
But the leaven of discontent was working, and the convention
of 1835 was called by a vote of the entire people of the State.
Convention of 1835. The convention met at Raleigh in
January, 1835, and the demands of the west for the election
of representatives and governor by the direct vote of the peo
ple were granted; the right of suffrage which hitherto had been
enjoyed by certain "free persons of color"9 was abrogated.
Catholics were relieved of political disability, the governor's
term was extended to two years, and biennial, instead of
annual sessions of the legislature provided for. But some
thing had been held back, and that was
"Free and Equal Suffrage." The first Democratic
governor chosen by the people was David S. Reid, in 1850,
who favored what was called "free and equal suffrage." To
understand this phrase it will be necessary to understand
that, under the constitution of 1835, white males, 21 years
old, who had paid their taxes could vote for members of the
house of commons; but they could not vote for senators unless
they owned fifty, acres of land. "Free Suffrage" meant to
allow any free white man to vote for a senator, whether the
voter owned land or not. 1 °
The Fly Still in the Ointment. Thus, the new con
stitution still left something to be desired: the senate was to
consist of fifty, senators, the number from each senatorial dis
trict being determined, not by population, but by the amount
of taxes paid. That did not suit the white men of the west
at all.

634 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Prevalence of Eastern Names. With the exception of
Swain, no county west of the Blue Ridge is named for a citi
zen of this section; and, except Bakersville and Bryson city,
no county seat is named for a son of the west. These honors
had to be bartered away to get the legislature to consent to
the formation of every other county west of the Blue Ridge.
For even eastern men admit that we obtained our just dues
only by barter and trade.
Sectionalism Rampant. Of this period Chief Justice
Clark x 1 says :
"During the time Capt. Burns was in the legislature [1821 to 1834]
the east had a disproportionately large representation. The west had
increased very greatly in population and demanded an increase in rep
resentation, either by the creation of new counties in the west or by
calling a constitutional convention. These measures were voted down
in the general assembly, or if a new county was created in the west a
new one was created in the east — just as in congress before the war, if
a non-slave-holding state was admitted into the Union, a slaveholding
state was admitted to balance it. Capt. Burns, though he was from
Carteret county, on the very borders of the ocean, his was the odd vote
that created Macon county in 1827. In 1822 he voted for Davidson
county. He voted for the creation of Yancey county in 1827, the vote
being a tie. The speaker voted 'aye', but the bill was lost in the senate.
In 1828 he voted for Cherokee, though the measure then failed, the
county not being created till eleven years later, in 1839. In 1833 Capt.
Burns was in the senate and again voted for the creation of Yancey
county, which measure then passed. The grateful west promptly named
the county seat of the new county 'Burnsville.'
"We of this day can hardly realize the bitter feeling that then ex
isted between the east and west in our State until the inequality of repre
sentation was remedied by the constitutional convention of 1835. "
As the Cherokees agreed to go west in 1835 we should have
here a —
Recapitulation of Indian Treaties, the principal of
which, concerning the mountains of Western North Carolina,
may be briefly summed up as follows :
Treaty of 1761, by which the Blue Ridge was made the
boundary; Treaty of 1772 and purchase of 1773, by which the ridge
between the NoUechucky and the Watauga rivers, from their
sources in the Blue Ridge westward, and from the Blue Ridge
to the Virginia line, was made the boundary line;
Treaty of Hopewell, 1785, by which the line was moved
westward to a line running just east of Marshall, Asheville
and Hendersonville;

POLITICAL 635

Treaty of Holston, 1791, establishing Meigs & Freeman's
line; Treaty of 1819 by which the line was moved west to the
Nantahala river;
Treaty of New Echota, or 1835, by which the Cherokees
surrendered all lands east of the Mississippi, and agreed to
remove. From 1833 to 1849. Notwithstanding the changes wrought
in the constitution by the convention of 1835, the west made
but little progress politically, as during those sixteen years
only one additional county was permitted to organize, and
that was Henderson, taken from the southern part of Bun
combe in 1838. But, although the Senate was to continue
to represent the landed interests till 1857, when the consti
tution was amended by the Legislature so as to distribute
senators according to population, 1 2 between 1848 and 1862
seven new counties were established west of the Blue Ridge,
viz.: Watauga, 1849; Jackson, 1851; Madison, 1851; Alle
ghany, 1859; Mitchell, 1861; Transylvania, 1861; and Clay,
1861. A Natural Diplomat.13 "In 1848 William H. Thomas
entered the Senate from Macon county, and remained there
till 1862. In those twelve years he accomplished more for
western North Carolina than any other man who ever lived.
In addition to securing the creation of the seven new coun
ties above referred to, he had the Western Turnpike from
Salisbury to Murphy constructed and paid for out of the sale
of Cherokee lands; he secured a charter for the Western North
Carolina Railroad and saw it finished to within a few miles of
Morganton at the foot of the Blue Ridge, and had the charter
so altered that after the road should reach Asheville it should
go west toward Murphy as rapidly as it proceeded northwest
toward Paint Rock. In addition to this he caused turnpike
roads to be built all through the mountains, and helped to
organize the companies which constructed them, by giving
barbecues and holding public meetings at which he taught
the people the importance of making good roads. And, in
the meantime, he was using his powers of persuasion to in
duce South Carolina to endorse four million dollars of the
bonds of the Blue Ridge Railroad that was to enter our State
at Rabun gap and proceed down the Little Tennessee to Cin-

636 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
cinnati. He was also engaged at this time in looking after
the affairs of the Eastern Band of Cherokees, by whom he
had been adopted when a youth. He lived to see the rail
road completed to Murphy." A monument of bronze is due
to his memory from the people of Western North Carolina.
Secession. On the 30th day of January, 1861, the Legis
lature submitted to the people the question of holding a con
vention to consider secession; but it was voted down. But
when, in April, 1861, President Lincoln issued a proclamation
calling on North Carolina, with the other states still in the
Union, to contribute her quota of troops to be used in co
ercing those states which had withdrawn to return to the
Union, the Legislature voted for a convention, and on the
20th day of May it unanimously adopted the ordinance of
secession. North Carolina Did Not Fight for Slavery.14 "One
of the most significant proofs of the fact that the status of
the negro was not, at the South, regarded as the issue, was
the ardor with which the non-slaveholding portions of the
population flew to arms at the call of their respective states,
and the fidelity they exhibited for the cause through four
years of struggle, self-denial, suffering, death and social de
struction. Few Slave-Holders in the Mountains. "Especially was
this true of the North Carolina mountaineer. In the greater
portion of that section of the State extending from the eastern
foot-hills of the Blue Ridge to the western boundaries of Clay
and Cherokee, the slave-owners in 1861 were so rare that the
institution of slavery may be said, practically, to have had no
existence; and yet that region sent more than fifteen thousand
fighting men — volunteers — into the field. 1 6
Regiments. "The Sixteenth, Twenty-fifth, Twenty-ninth,
Thirty-ninth, Fifty-eighth, Sixtieth, Sixty-second, Sixty-fourth,
Sixty-fifth and Sixty-ninth regiments were composed exclu
sively of mountain men; and in addition they were numer
ously represented in the "Bethel," Ninth, Eleventh,
Fourteenth, the "Immortal Twenty-sixth," the Nine
teenth regiments, and other organizations. This estimate
does not include a large number of men from the
same territory, who during the progress of the war were em
bodied in independent commands, and did gallant service in

POLITICAL 637

the campaigns in Virginia, in the southwest and in the im
mediate locality of their homes. These mountaineers were
the descendants of the sturdy, hard-fighting Scotch-Irish, who,
to a man, were Whigs in the Revolution, and by their stub
born resistance of the British aggressions, contributed so much
to the establishment of the independence of their country.
Nor does it include thousands who joined the Federal army.
Not Rebels, But Sons of Revolutionary Sires. "The
men of Western Carolina, whose sublime devotion and cour
age, with that of their comrades from other portions of the
South, have made the heights of Gettysburg and Fredericks
burg and Sharpsburg, the plains of Manassas and Chicka-
hominy, the wilderness of Chancellorsville and Chickamauga,
the valleys of Virginia, Georgia and Tennessee, immortal,
had in their veins the blood of the patriots who fought at
Brandywine, Germantown, Monmouth, Yorktown, Savannah,
Guilford, Eutaw Springs and Kings Mountain — and, let it
never be forgotten, they fought, and fighting died, for the
same great divine right — the right of a people to ordain and
control their own government. " 1 4
Our "War Governor's" Right Hand. x 6 Governor Vance
was the colonel of the 26th North Carolina regiment when
he was elected to the high office of governing his people in the
most momentous and troublous time in their history; but
notwithstanding that fact, he realized that he was not a trained
and educated soldier. He therefore, summoned to his side
at the outset of his term that accomplished officer and gen
tleman, General James Green Martin, who had graduated
from West Point in time to lose an arm in the Mexican War
and to be brevetted for gallantry on the field of Cherubusco.
He was, therefore, continued as adjutant general, to which
position Gov. Clark had appointed him in 1861, and the legis
lature wisely gave him great power and put money freely at
his command, in preparing our troops for battle. Without
factories and without markets, forty thousand armed and
well-drilled men had been turned over to the Confederacy within
seven months; while in less than one year after North Caro
lina left the Union the State had nearly sixty thousand
men in camp. He did not stop then, but as rapidly as pos
sible Gen. Martin added regiment after regiment until seventy-
two regular regiments had been formed. Later in the war

638 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
three regiments of boys too young for regular duty were organ
ized. In addition to these, in the days of sore need, five regi
ments of old men were pressed into the service of the Con
federacy. Then came the Home Guard, the whole aggregating
125,000 soldiers.
Arma Virumque. And not only did he make soldiers, but
he also went actively into the manufacture of arms. He
hired two Frenchmen to make swords and bayonets at the
armory at Wilmington, while workmen in Guilford made 300
rifles a month. The State took charge of the old United States
arsenal at Fayetteville and made excellent rifles. One pow
der mill near Raleigh made weekly 4,000 pounds of powder.
Pistols, swords, cartridge-boxes, gun-caps, bayonets, car
tridges, powder, lead, etc., to the value of $1,673,308 were
furnished the soldiers before April, 1864.
Quartermaster; also Commissary. The Legislature in
1861 directed Gen. Martin to clothe the soldiers as best he
could, and he started a clothing factory at Raleigh, and required
all the mills in the State to send him every yard of cloth
they made. Officers were sent into the far South to buy all
the shoes and cloth they could find, while women at home
furnished blankets, quilts and comforts, even cutting up their
carpets and lining them with cotton to be used for blankets.
In 1862 Gen. Martin asked Gov. Clark to buy a ship
to run the blockade and bring in supplies from foreign
ports; but as the Governor's term was nearly out, he
asked Gen. Martin to submit his plan to Governor Vance.
He did so, and the Governor approved it; and Gen. Martin
sent John White to England, where he bought the Ad-
Vance, named in honor of the Governor. This ship brought
in many cargoes of goods before it was captured. The State
bought cotton and rosin and in foreign ports exchanged these
for such supplies as were most in demand. Other ships ran
the blockade also, bringing in 250,000 pairs of shoes and cloth
for 250,000 suits, 2,000 fine rifles, 60,000 pairs of cotton cards,
500 sacks of coffee for the sick, medicine to the value of $50,-
000 and other articles. For these supplies the State spent
$26,363,663. From these stores North Carolina contributed
largely to the Confederate government, and during the last
months of the war we were feeding one-half of General Lee's
army.

POLITICAL 639

General Martin Takes Command at Asheville. His
work of organizing and supplying the troops having ended,
Gen. Martin took command of the troops in and around Ashe
ville in 1864. He spent the rest of his life here, and died a
"mountain man" just as "Zeb" Vance had always been,
though his residence had been in Charlotte for years, and we
are proud of their records.
Many Welcome Peace. The sentiment for the Old Union
did not wholly die in Western North Carolina even during the
heat of the armed conflict which followed secession; and after
having in vain asserted by nearly four years' warfare its con
scientious contention that the general government had no
right to force any state to furnish troops to coerce any other
state to remain in the Union, many of the best and most in
fluential citizens of these mountains, after the defeat of Hood
at Franklin, Tennessee, and the evacuation of Savannah by
the Confederates, considered further resistance as not only
futile but a needless waste of blood and treasure, and that
such people at home should make known their sentiments to
the commanders of the Union forces in the South. Their
hope was thus to avert further bloodshed and the destruction
of property; and, as Sherman had not then started on his
barbarous march through South Carolina, it is interesting to
consider how much of suffering and loss might have been
spared to the women and children of that State and elsewhere
if their counsel had been followed.
Peaceful Overtures. In pursuance of this sentiment
there is the best authority for making public the following
facts: In January, 1865, there met in one of the rooms of
the Old Buck Hotel at Asheville the following men: A. S.
Merrimon, Weston Holmes, Alfred M. Alexander, J. E. Reid,
J. L. Henry, Adolphus E. Baird, G. M. Roberts, I. A. Harris,
and Adolphus M. Gudger. A paper declaring that the people
were tired of further warfare and desired peace and the res
toration of the Union was prepared by Judge A. S. Merrimon
and signed by each of the above-named citizens. Adolphus
M. Gudger undertook to have it delivered to Judge John
Baxter at Knoxville. He did so, and it was put into the
hands of the military commander then in charge of that city.
Major W. W. Rollins, now postmaster at Asheville, saw and
read it in January, 1865. It doubtless did much good in the

640 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
saving of property when the Union forces invaded this terri
tory in April and May following. Of these men A. M. Alex
ander, J. L. Henry and I. A. Harris were officers of the Con
federate Army at the time they signed that paper. All are
now dead except Dr. I. A. Harris, who lives at Jupiter, Bun
combe county. This paper is said to be in existence, and its
exact wording would be a matter of great interest at this time
when there is so universal a sentiment in favor of the Union. 1 7
After the War. During the Civil War which followed
secession, the writ of habeas corpus was not suspended in
North Carolina or New York; but after peace had been declared
Governor W. W. Holden, provisional governor, suspended
it, and appointed Col. George W. Kirk, who had raided the
mountain section during the war, to enforce martial law.
North Carolina sent more troops into the Confederate army
than any other Southern State; and while there were many
desertions from the soldiers who had joined the Confederacy
from the West, the mountain section was by no means a lag
gard in defence of the cause of the Confederacy.
Reconstruction. Gov. Holden called a convention which
met in Raleigh October 2, 1865, but its work was rejected by
the people by a vote of 19,570 for and 21,552 against, many of
the whites being then disfranchised. Gen. E. R. Canby, com
manding the Second Military District, ordered a constitutional
convention which met January 14, 1868. The office of lieutenant
governor was created, and that of superintendent of public
works; all voters were made eligible to office; the number of
the Supreme and Superior courts was increased and provi
sion was made for their election and that of magistrates by
the people; the County Court system was abolished and
county government by a board of commissioners substituted.
The sessions of the Legislature were changed back to one
each year; provision was made to establish a penitentiary;
negroes were given equal rights before the law with all whites,
and a census of the State was ordered every ten years. A
homestead of $1,000 in real estate and $500 in personal prop
erty was exempted from execution; Gov. W. W. Holden was
impeached and removed from office in 1871; and Lieutenant
Governor Tod R. Caldwell succeeded him.
The Exhaustion of the Judiciary. One of the charges
against Gov. Holden had been the suspension of the writ of

POLITICAL 641

habeas corpus in Alamance and Caswell counties, during what
was called Kirk's War, and the existence of the Ku-Klux
Klan in 1869 and 1870, when, Col. Kirk, having refused to
recognize the writs of the Supreme Court, Chief Justice Pear
son had declared that "the judiciary was exhausted." Judge
George W. Brooks, of the United States District Court for the
eastern district, however, pitted the strong arm of the United
States against this defiance of judicial authority, and Kirk and
Holden yielded. 1 8
Convention of 1875. There was a Constitutional Con
vention, against the calling of which the eastern counties had
voted solidly, held in Raleigh, September 6, 1875, which pro
vided that separate schools should be provided for white
and colored; that there should be criminal and inferior
courts; that there should be a department of agriculture;
limiting the per diem of members of the Legislature to four
dollars a day during a session of sixty days; providing for the
election of magistrates by the Legislature; reducing the num
ber of judges, and disfranchising persons who had been con
victed of infamous crimes. Sessions of the Legislature were
again made biennial. In 1900 an amendment was adopted re
quiring a quasi-educational qualification for voters after 1908,
except for the descendants of, those who could vote prior to
1860. The period during which that exception was opera
tive passed in 1908; but the fact that certain "free persons of
color" had enjoyed the right to vote prior to the constitution
of 1835, 19 saved the exception, commonly called the "grand
father clause," from discriminating against anyone "on ac
count of race, color or previous condition of servitude. "
Regulating Passenger Rates. In 1908 the Legislature
passed an act limiting passenger rates on railroads to two
cents per mile; and the railroads, after some litigation, finally
compromised by agreeing to charge not over two and one-
half cents per mile.
State-Wide Prohibition. In 1908 the Legislature sub
mitted to the people the question of prohibiting the manu
facture and sale of malt and spiritous liquors anywhere in
the State, and the measure was adopted by a large majority.
The "No-Fence" Law. In 1885, pursuant to an act of
the Legislature passed at the request of Hon. Richmond Pear
son, member of the House from Buncombe county, the voters
w. n. a— ii

642 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
of that county voted to eliminate fences in most of the town
ships, and requiring the owners of cattle, sheep, horses and
"hawgs" to keep them in bounds. Buncombe was the pio
neer county in adopting this economic reform; and Richmond
Pearson the legislator who had the courage to secure its en
actment. A quarrel grew out of this matter which resulted
in the sending of a challenge to Mr. Pearson by Adjutant
General Johnston Jones; but the day of duelling had passed
forever, and the matter was adjusted.
Upon the election of Hon. Z. B. Vance as governor and a
Democratic Legislature the magistrates were empowered to
elect the county commissioners. This was done to enable the
eastern counties to control their board of commissioners in
counties where negro votes predominated. But it finally re
sulted in great dissatisfaction, and helped to defeat the Demo
cratic Party in 1894. The Republicans changed the law, in
1895, making the county commissioners elective by the people.
Swain, Graham and Avery. Not much was left to be
done in the way of division of the mountain territory when
the Civil War came to put a stop to legislation along this
line. Swain county was formed in 1871 and in 1872 Graham
was formed out of a portion of Cherokee because it was cut
off from the rest of the State by two high ranges of moun
tains on the east and south and by the Little Tennessee river
on the north. Its county seat is Robbinsville. The county
seat of Swain is Bryson City, named for the late Col. Thad. D.
Bryson who, as a member of the Legislature, secured its
establishment as a county. Avery county was formed in 1911,
and its county seat is Newland, named for Lieut. Gov. New-
land of Caldwell. It is at the Old Fields of Toe, and the
court house and jail are completed. In this county is some
of the finest scenery in the South.
Only Crumbs for the West. Although Gen. Thomas
Love had been in the Senate and the House from 1793 to
1828, except in 1797-98, and John and Elisha Calloway and
George Bower from Ashe almost as long, it was not until
Governor Swain was elected by the Legislature a Superior
Court judge for one of the eastern circuits that there was the
slightest breach in the wall of sectionalism. His election by
the legislature to the governorship in 1832 and afterwards to
to the presidency of the University followed; but up to his

POLITICAL 643

election to the bench there had never been a judge from west
of the Ridge and there has never been a judge from this sec
tion elected to the Supreme Court, Judge Augustus S. Mer
rimon having moved from this locality long before his eleva
tion to that office. And, with the exception of Judge
Swain, there was never a Superior Court judge from the
mountains till 1868, when Judges James L. Henry and Riley
Cannon were elected under Reconstruction. Gov. Zebulon B.
Vance of Buncombe was elected governor in 1862-64, and
Gov. Locke Craig of the same county in 1912; but they and
Governor Swain are the only governors this part of the State
has ever had. Hon. James L. Robinson of Macon and Rufus
A. Doughton of Alleghany have been presidents of the Sen
ate, and James L. Robinson was elected speaker of the House
in 1872 and 1874, but it was not till 1901 that Hon. Walter E.
Moore of Jackson was elected speaker. In 1876 Dr. Samuel
L. Love was elected State auditor from Haywood, and the
Hon. Robert M. Furman in 1894. Hon. Theodore F. David
son was elected attorney general in 1884 and 1888 and R.
D. Gilmer in 1900. General Thomas L. Clingman of Bun
combe was elected to the U. S. Senate in 1858, and Judge
Jeter C. Pritchard in 1895 and 1897. Col. Allen T. David
son was elected to the Provisional Congress of the Confeder
acy, in 1861 and in 1862 by the people. In 1864 Judge
George W. Logan of Rutherford county succeeded him. Hon.
M. L. Shipman of Hendersonville has been labor commissioner
for several years.
Felix Walker. 2 ° When the Missouri question was under
discussion, Mr. Walker secured the floor, when some impa
tient member asked him to sit down and let a vote be taken.
He refused, saying he must "make a speech for Buncombe,"
that is, for his constituents. Thus "bunkum, " as it is usually
spelt, has become part of our vocabulary. Mr. Walker was
born in Hampshire county, Va., July 19, 1753, and became
a merchant. His grandfather, John Walker, emigrated in
1720 from Derry, Ireland, to Delaware, where his father,
also named John, was born. The younger John moved first
to Virginia and afterwards to North CaroUna, settling within
four miles of Kings Mountain. He was a member of the
first convention at Hillsboro, July, 1775, and of the Provin
cial Congress which met there, August 21, 1775, afterwards

644 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
serving in the Revolutionary War. He died in 1796. Felix
went with Richard Henderson to Kentucky (then called Louisa),
1774-1775, where he was badly wounded by Indians. He then
joined the Watauga settlement and became the first clerk of the
court of Washington county. While holding this office he went to
Mecklenburg county, and was made captain of a company
of State troops which was placed at NoUechucky to guard
the frontier agamst the Indians. After serving four years as
clerk he moved to Rutherford county, N. C, where in 1789 he was
appointed clerk of the court of that county. He represented
that county in the General Assembly in 1792, 1799, 1800,
1801, 1802, and 1806. In 1817 he was elected member of
Congress, and for two succeeding Congresses. R. B. Vance
succeeded him in 1823. Walker was a candidate again in 1827,
but withdrew in favor of Sam. P. Carson, who defeated both
Vance and James Graham. Walker then removed to Missis
sippi, where he died in 1828, at Clinton.
Israel Pickens was born in Cabarrus county, N. C, Jan
uary 30, 1780; moved to Burke county, receiving limited school
ing; State Senator in 1808 and 1809; elected as Democrat to 12th,
13th and 14th Congresses (March 4, 1811-March 3, 1817); ap
pointed Register of Land Office of Mississippi territory in
1817; Governor of Alabama, 1821-1825; appointed from Ala
bama to United States Senate to fill vacancy caused by death
of Henry Chambers, serving from February 17, 1826, to No
vember 27, 1826; died near Matanzas, Cuba, April 24, 1827. 20
James Graham was born in Lincoln county, January,
1793; graduated from University of North Carolina, 1814; ad
mitted to bar and practiced ; moved to Rutherford county, which
he represented in the House of Commons 1822-1823, 1824, 1828-
1829; elected to the 23d, 24th, 25th, 26th and 27th Congresses,
and served from December 2, 1833, to March 3, 1843, excepting
from March 25, 1836, to December 5, 1836, when a Democratic
house declared the seat vacant, but at a new election Graham
was again elected; defeated for the 28th Congress; elected as
a Whig to the 29th Congress (March 4, 1845, to March 3,
1847); died in Rutherford county, September 25, 1851. 20
Thomas L. Clingman was born at Huntersville, July 27,
1812; graduated from University of North Carolina, 1832;
studied and practiced law; elected to House of Commons
in 1835; moved to Asheville in 1836; elected State Senator in

POLITICAL 645

1840; elected as a Whig to 28th Congress (March 4, 1843-
March 3, 1845); defeated by James Graham to 29th Congress;
reelected to 30th, 31st, 32d, 33d, 34th and 35th Congresses
(March 4, 1847-December 6, 1858) when he resigned; appointed
in 1858 United States Senator as a Democrat to fill vacancy caused
by resignation of Asa Biggs; was elected to United States Senate
and served from May 6, 1858, to January 21, 1861, whenhe with
drew; was formally expelled from United States Senate July 11,
1861; appointed May 17, 1862, brigadier general in the Con
federate service, and commanded a brigade composed of the
8th, 31st, 51st, and 61st North Carolina infantry; delegate
to the Democratic national convention of 1868; was a delegate
to the State Constitutional convention of 1875; explored and
measured mountain peaks and developed mineral resources
of several regions; died November 3, 1897; buried in Asheville.
Zebulon Baird Vance, born in Buncombe county May
13, 1830, attended Washington College, Tennessee, was clerk at
hotel, Hot Springs, North Carolina ; attended University of North
Carolina; admitted to bar in January, 1852, when he was elected
county attorney of Buncombe; member of House of Commons,
1854; elected as a Democrat to 35th Congress to fill vacancy
caused by resignation of Thomas L. Clingman; reelected to
the 36th Congress, and served from December 7, 1858, to
March 3, 1861; entered Confederate Army as captain in May,
1861, and made colonel in August, 1861; was elected governor
August, 1862, and 1864; was member of Democratic national
convention of 1868; elected to United States Senate November,
1870, but was refused admission, and resigned in January,
1872; he was defeated for United States Senate in 1872 by
Hon. A. S. Merrimon; was elected governor over Hon. Thomas
Settle in famous campaign of 1876; elected to United States
Senate in 1879; reelected in 1884 and 1890, serving till his
death in Washington, D. C, April 14, 1894 20
Alexander Hamilton Jones was born in Buncombe
county July 21, 1822, was educated at Emory and Henry Col
lege; he was a merchant, a strong Union man during the Civil
War, and in 1863 joined the Union Army and was captured
in East Tennessee while raising a regiment and im
prisoned at Asheville and at Camp Vance below Morgan-
ton, and at Camp Holmes and at Libby Prison at Rich
mond, Virginia. He made his escape November 14, 1864,

646 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
and joined the Union Army at Cumberland, Maryland.
After the war he returned to Hendersonville and was elected
a delegate to the State Convention to frame a new constitu
tion in 1865. He was elected a representative to the 39th
Congress but was refused a seat. He was reelected to the
40th Congress and was admitted July 6, 1868. He was re
elected to the 41st Congress and made his home in Washing
ton, D. C, till 1876, and in Maryland till 1884, when he came
to Asheville, where he resided till 1890, going thence to
Oklahoma, where he remained till 1897, when he moved to
Long Beach, California, where he died January 29, 1901. He
married Sarah D. Brittain, daughter of William and Rachel
Brittain of Mills river, in 1843, of which marriage five children
were born: Col. Thad W. Jones, U. S. A., Otho M. Jones,
and Mrs. J. P. Johnson, Mrs. Thomas J. Candler, and Miss
Charlotte Jones, spinster. His widow died in January, 1913,
aged 92.
Gen. Robert Brank Vance. He was born in Buncombe
county, April 24, 1828, and was the eldest son of David and
Mira Vance. When 21 years of age he was elected clerk of
the county court, and reelected till 1858, when he retired
voluntarily. He was a Union man and voted against seces
sion, but went into the Confederate Army when war was
declared. He was first captain, but soon afterwards elected
colonel of the 29th North CaroUna Infantry, becoming brig
adier general in 1863, after the battle of Murfreesborough.
He was captured at Cosby's creek, Tenn., in January, 1864,
and kept a prisoner till the close of the war. He was elected
to the 43d Congress in 1872, and thereafter till 1885. He
succeeded in securing daily mails in every county in his dis
trict, and many money-order offices. He was appointed com
missioner of patents in 1885, and obtained an appropriation
for dredging the French Broad river between Brevard and
Asheville, a small steamer having been operated there a short
time in 1876. He was in the State Senate in 1893. He was a
sincere Christian, and the most useful congressman who ever
went from that district. He died at Alexander, ten miles
below Asheville, November 28, 1899.
Edmund Spencer Blackburn, born in Watauga county,
September 22, 1868; attended common schools and academies;
admitted to the bar in May, 1890; was reading clerk of North

POLITICAL 647

Carolina Senate, 1894-1895; representative in State Legisla
ture, 1896-1897; was elected speaker pro tern of this Legisla
ture; appointed assistant United States Attorney for western
district in 1898, and assisted in the prosecution of Breese
and Dickerson in the First National Bank case; elected as
republican to 57th Congress (March 4, 1901-March 3, 1903) ;
reelected March 4, 1905; and died at EUzabethton, Tenn.,
March 10, 1912. Interment at Boone, N. C. Edmund
Blackburn was the first of his family to settle in Watauga,
then Ashe county, and married a relative of Levi Morphew,
who is still living on the New river, well up in the nineties.
Edmund's children were Levi, Sallie, and Edmund, Levi hav
ing been the grandfather of E. Spencer and M. B. Blackburn
of Boone. Levi Morphew is a son of Sallie Blackburn.
Among the first Methodist churches in Watauga was the one
built by the Blackburn family on Riddle's Fork of Meat Camp
creek, called Hopewell, the Methodists having worshiped in
Levi Blackburn's house prior to that time. Henson's chapel
on Cove creek was probably the first Methodist church in
Watauga. The first church built in Boone was built about
1880. Romulus Z. Linney. He was born in Rutherford county
December 26, 1841; was educated in the common schools of
the country, at York's Collegiate Institute, and at Dr. Mil-
len's school at Taylorsville; he served as a private in the Con
federate army until the battle of Chancellorsville, where he
was severely wounded, and was discharged. He then joined
a class in Dr. Millen's school at Taylorsville, of which Hon.
W. H. Bower was a member; studied law with the late Judge
Armfield ; was admitted to practice by the Supreme Court in 1 868 ;
was elected to the State Senate in 1870, 1872, 1874, and again
in 1882; was elected to the 54th, 55th and 56th Congresses as a
Republican, receiving 19,419 votes against 18,006 for Rufus A.
Doughton, Democrat, and 640 for Wm. M. White, Prohi
bitionist. He married Dorcas Stephenson in Taylorsville. In
1880 he became interested in Watauga so much that he bought
property there, and in September, 1902, he bought a tract of
land he called Tater Hill on Rich mountain, where he built
two rock houses. He was influential in getting a wagon road
built along the top of the Rich mountain range from the gap
above Boone to a gap just north of Silverstone. He contrib-

648 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
uted $500 to the Appalachian Training School. Above the
front door of the chief building of this college is written in
marble the following quotation from one of his speeches de
livered July 4, 1903 : "Learning, the Handmaid of Loyalty
and Liberty. A Vote Governs Better than a Crown." He
died at Taylorsville, April 15, 1910. His mother was a sister
of the late Judge John Baxter.
Thomas Dillard Johnston was born at Waynesville,
North Carolina, April 1, 1840. His father was WiUiam
Johnston and his mother Lucinda Gudger, a daughter of
the late James Gudger and a grand-daughter of Col. Robert
Love of Waynesville. He went to school to the late Capt.
James N. Terrell in a log school house in Waynesville, when
about ten years of age. In 1853 he entered the school of
the late Col. Stephen D. Lee, in Chunn's Cove, where he
remained till the summer of 1857, when he entered the State
University; but, his health failing, he returned to Asheville
to which place his family had removed, and were living in a
brick house that stood on the corner now occupied by the
Drhumor Block. He began the study of law with the late
Judge James L. Bailey at his law school near the foot of
Black Mountain, where he remained till the summer of 1861,
when he obtained license to practice in the County Court.
In May, 1861, he enlisted as a private in the Rough and
Heady Guards, the second Asheville company to enter the
service of the Confederacy. He was desperately wounded
three times at Malvern Hill, and for a long time his life was
despaired of. Recovering, however, he became quartermas
ter to Col. W. C. Walker's battalion and Capt. J. T. Levy's
battery of artillery. In 1866 he was admitted to practice by
Chief Justice Pearson. He was defeated in 1867 for county
solicitor by Col. V. S. Lusk, and in 1868 Col. Lusk defeated
him for circuit solicitor. In 1869 he was elected mayor of
Asheville, and in 1870 he was elected to the House of Repre
sentatives. He canvassed the Ninth Congressional District in
1871 in favor of a State convention to amend the Constitu
tion, but the measure was defeated. He was a candidate for
elector in 1872 on the Greeley ticket. In 1875 he again advo
cated a similar convention, which was called. He was elected
to the Legislature again in 1872 and in 1876 to the State
Senate. On the 10th of July, 1879, he married Miss N.

POLITICAL 649

Leila Bobo of South Carolina. In 1884 he was elected to
Congress, defeating H. G. Ewart, and again in 1886, defeating
W. H. Malone. In 1888 he was defeated for Congress by H.
G. Ewart. He died June 23, 1902. He gave the United
States the site of the present postoffice in 1888, and assisted
in the education of a number of worthy young men. Of
him it has been said that "his word was better than his bond,
and his bond was as good as gold."
James Montraville Moody. He was born February 12,
1858, in Cherokee, now Graham, county, but while he was
yet an infant his parents moved to and settled on Jonathan's
creek, Haywood county. He attended the neighborhood
schools and at seventeen years of age went to Waynesville
Academy under the tutelage of John K. Boone, after which
he went to the Collegiate Institute at Candler, Buncombe
county. He was admitted to the bar in 1881, and in 1886
was Republican nominee for solicitor, and defeated Judge G.
S. Ferguson for that position, serving four years. In 1894
he was elected to the State Senate from the 34th District,
then composed of Haywood, Buncombe and Madison. He
was appointed major and chief commissary and served on
the staff of Major General J. Warren Keifer in the Spanish-
American War of 1898. In 1900 he was elected from the
Ninth District over W. T. Crawford, Esq., a member of Con
gress, and was renominated in 1902 by the Republicans, but
was defeated by Mr. J. M. Gudger, Jr., two years later. On
May 20, 1885, Mr. Moody married Miss Margaret E. Haw
kins. He died February 5, 1903.
William Thomas Crawford. He was born on Crabtree
creek, Haywood county, N. C, June 1, 1856. He attended
the public schools of this neighborhood, and in 1882 the old
Waynesville Academy. In 1885 and 1887 he served as a
member of the House of Representatives in the State legis
lature. In 1888 he was Presidential elector on the Demo
cratic ticket, and in 1889 he served as engrossing clerk of the
House. In 1889 and 1890 he studied law at the University of
North Carolina. In 1890 he was elected to Congress. In 1891
he was admitted to the bar. On the 30th of November, 1892, he
was married to Miss Inez Edna Coman, daughter of J. R.
Coman and wife, Laura McCracken, daughter of David V.
McCracken. J. R. Coman's father was that scholarly and ec-

650 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
centric gentleman, Matthew J. Coman, son of James Coman,
of the city of Raleigh, N. C. Matthew J. Coman was a class
mate of President James K. Polk at the University of North
Carolina, was a fine classical scholar, and was born in Raleigh
in 1802. In 1892 Mr. Crawford was again elected to Con
gress, defeating Hon. Jeter C. Pritchard. He was defeated
for the 54th Congress. Was re-elected to the 56th Congress,
but was unseated by Hon. Richmond Pearson by a majority of
one vote. He was defeated for re-election to Congress in 1900.
He was Presidential elector on the Democratic ticket in 1904.
He was elected to the 60th Congress (1907 to 1909). He
practised law in Waynesville till his death, November 16,
1913. Even his political rivals admitted that he had more
strength before the people than any man since the death of
his near kinsman, the late Col. William H. Thomas, for whom
he was named. His widow and seven children survive.
James Lowery Robinson. He was a son of James and
Matilda Lowery Robinson, was born September 17, 1838,
married Miss Alice L. Siler, daughter of Julius T. and Mary
Coleman Siler, October 12, 1864. He died July 8, 1887. On
his mother's side he was descended from the Lanes and
Swains, his mother having been a niece of Gov. D. L. Swain.
He attended Emory and Henry College of Virginia, volun
teered as a private in the Confederate army and was pro
moted to a captaincy, fighting gallantly till discharged be
cause of a wound he carried all his life. He represented
Macon in the House from 1868 to 1872, inclusive, when he was
elected speaker, to which position he was reelected in 1873
and 1874. A silver service presented at the end of his ser
vice as speaker was inscribed : "From the Republicans and
Democrats of the House : a testimonial of ability, integrity
and impartiality." From 1876 to 1879, inclusive, he served
as State Senator from the then 42d District, composed of
Jackson, Swain, Clay, Macon, Cherokee and Graham coun
ties; and on November 20, 1876, was elected president of the
Senate by a vote of thirty-six to six. He was nominated for
lieutenant governor by the Democrats in 1880 and elected,
serving as governor in September, 1883, during the absence
of Governor Jarvis from the State, and many important
grants and State papers bear his signature as "Acting Gov
ernor. " His first official act as governor was to pardon James

POLITICAL 651

J. Penn, sentenced from Cherokee for perjury. But his great
work was in his efforts to secure the construction of railroads
through the western part of the State. He was appointed
Inspector of Public Lands. From 1886 to 1887 he was Spe
cial Indian Agent. He was a good man as well as being a
statesman. NOTES.
Constitution of the Watauga Association.
2From Asheville's Centenary.
"Hill, p. 43.
<Ibid., p. 152.
'Polk.
•Hill, 249.
7Col. Byrd, in his Writings, calls fire hunting driving game to a central point by means
of fires set around a circumference,
'Gazette News, November 30, 1912.
'Handbook of North Carolina, by L. L. Polk, p. 22.
"Hill, 263.
11Address of Judge Walter Clark at Burnsville, July 5, 1909, unveiling statue to Cap
tain Otway Burns.
"Hill, P- 264.
13Capt James W. Terrell in The Commonwealth, Asheville, June 1, 1893.
14From "Thirty-Ninth Regiment" by Lieut. Theo. F. Davidson in Vol. II, of "His
tories of the Several Regiments and Battalions from North Carolina," p. 699.
"According to Wheeler's ' ' History of North Carolina" there were only 4,669 slaves in
1850 in this entire mountain region.
"From Ch., 37, of HillVYoung Peoples' History of North Carolina.''
17In "The Last Ninety Days of the War," Ch. 16, when Federal General Gillam was
approaching Swannanoa gap Love's regiment and Porter's battery went there and forti
fied it; and "Palmer's brigade was ordered to meet them there; but," Gen. Martin adds, "I
regret to say the men refused to go. "
"Hill, 357, 358.
"Polk, 22. . .
2 The Biographical Congressional Directory states that he died in Asheville, which is
erroneous.

APPENDIX
DAUGHTERS OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION
Arden Chapter. On the 31st of October, 1899, at Arden
House, Arden, Buncombe county, was formed the Arden
Chapter of the D. A. R. Mrs. Maria Beale, regent and
acting historian; Mrs. Mary E. Child, vice-regent and sec
retary; Miss Bertha F. Beale, corresponding secretary; Mrs.
Ella H. Morrison, treasurer; Mrs. Jane Banks Amiss, regis
trar. Dorcas Bell Love Chapter, of Waynesville, was organ
ized by Miss Mary Love Stringfield, a great-granddaughter
of Robert Love, and Miss Lucy Biddle Lewis, January 9,
1899. The first officers follow: Mary Love Stringfield,
regent; Annie E. Gudger, secretary; Elizabeth Briscoe, treas
urer; Nora Welch, historian; Bessie Love, registrar; Love B.
Gilmer, vice-regent. The present officers (January, 1913)
follow: Mrs. Marietta Welch Way, regent; Maria Love
Mitchell, vice-regent; Florence V. Camp, secretary; Sarah
Stringfield, treasurer; Jessie Howell Rogers, register; Love
B. Gilmer, historian; Ella B. Atkins, treasurer. The first
annual State Conference of the national society was held at
Waynesville, July 2 to 5, 1901, upon invitation of the Dorcas
Bell Love chapter. On the 23d of August, 1902, this chapter
unveiled a bronze tablet to the memory of Robert Love, the
son of Dorcas Bell Love, in the court house at Waynesville.
1760 1845
In Memory of
COL. ROBERT LOVE.
Founder of Waynesville.
Soldier, Statesman, Benefactor.
Erected by the
Dorcas Bell Love Chapter, D. A. R.,
August 23, 1902.
Dorcas Bell was the daughter of James Bell, of Augusta
county, Va., and the wife of Samuel Love.
Edward Buncombe Chapter of Asheville was or
ganized October 12, 1903, Mrs. Thomas Settle, regent; Mrs.
J. M. Campbell, vice-regent; Miss Lelia May Johnston (now
(652)

APPENDIX 653

Mrs. Duncan Cameron Waddell, Jr.,) secretary; Mrs. Theo
dore S. Morrison, treasurer; Miss Nan Erwin, registrar; Mrs.
J. E. Ray, historian. Its officers in January, 1913, are: Mrs.
Theodore S. Morrison, regent; Mrs. E. C. Chambers, vice-
regent; Miss Hattie M. Scott, secretary; Miss Maria T.
Brown, treasurer; Mrs. Chas. A. Moore, registrar; Mrs. M. E.
Child, historian; Mrs. T. Woolridge, chaplain; Mrs. J. Edwin
Ray, honorary chaplain. This chapter was named for
Edward Buncombe, of whom Wheeler's History of North
Carolina contains the following account: "Colonel Edward
Buncombe was a native of St. Kitts, one of the West India
islands. He inherited land in Tyrrell county and built a house,
now in the possession of his descendants.
"With his regiment, he joined the army of the north under
Washington; was wounded and taken prisoner at the battle
of Germantown, in 1777. He died of wounds received in this
battle, at Philadelphia, while on parole. He left one son,
who died without issue, and two daughters; one, who mar
ried John Goelet, Esq., of Washington, N. C, and the other
Mr. Clark, of Bertie, a daughter of whom is now the wife of
John Cox, Esq., of Edenton.
"Edward Buncombe was distinguished for his manly ap
pearance, indomitable bravery, unsullied patriotism, and
open-hearted hospitality. Over his door was this distitch —
"To BUNCOMBE HALL,
Welcome All."
UNITED DAUGHTERS OF THE CONFEDERACY
Asheville Chapter. This was formed April 9, 1907, with
Miss Fannie L. Patton, president; Mrs. E. C. Chambers,
first vice-president; Mrs. Henry Redwood, second vice-presi
dent; Mrs. J. E. Dickerson, recording secretary; Miss Willie
Ray, corresponding secretary; Mrs. W. D. Hilliard, treasurer.
Monuments. A monument designed to honor the dead
infantry of Buncombe county was erected in Newton ceme
tery in 1903. For the keeping of this plot and the annual
decoration of the graves the chapter is chiefly indebted to
Miss Julia Hatch and Miss Mary McDowell, as leaders.
Gen. Thomas L. Clingman's Monument. This stands
in the court house lot and is thus engraved: "Erected by
Robert E. Lee Chapter, Children of the Confederacy, and

654 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Friends; In Honor of Gen. Clingman, Colonel of the 25th
N. C. Reg. — Brig. Gen. Confederate army — U. S. Senator.
Clingman's Dome -Smoky Range, 6660 ft. — Next to Mt.
Mitchell 6714 ft., highest East of the Rockies."
The Robert E. Lee Chapter was an auxiliary of this
chapter, and was organized in April, 1894, under the super
vision of Mrs. Edward McDowell. Mrs. E. B. Glenn followed
Mrs. McDowell in fuller enlistment of interest as a study
circle and choir. The historical department is under the
direction of Mrs. J. E. Ray. Among those who have been
active and helpful from the organization are Mrs. J. P. Sawyer,
Mrs. Duffield, Mrs. Stockton, Mrs. W. W. West, Miss Mary
Ci McDowell, Mrs. Betty Child, Mrs. William Breese, Miss
Carrie Furman, Mrs. Martha C. Kepler, president from Jan
uary, 1899, to November, 1907; Mrs. Henry Redwood, presi
dent from 1907 till November, 1910; Mrs. C. E. Chambers,
who has served since as president. Mrs. Edith C. L. Cain,
Mrs. E. W. West, Mrs. Daisy S. Cleminger, Miss Pearl K.
Stevens, Mrs. B. K. Bassett, Miss Nancy Grant, Mrs. Eph-
raim Clayton, Mrs. Malcolm Piatt, Miss Ethel Ray, Mrs.
F. B. Dickerson, Mrs. E. W. West.
THE MEN OF BUNCOMBE
By J. P. Arthur
(Read at Centennial Celebration of Buncombe County, August 11, 1892)
More than a hundred years ago, over the mountain walls,
Over the trackless forest-path, over the water-falls;
Over a hundred miles of swamp, over the sandy plain,
Our fathers came to this fair clime to build them homes again.
Away from the glistening sad sea-shore, away from the haunts of men,
Away from the busy marts of trade, away from brake and fen;
Away from the glare and grind of Ufe, away from grasping greed,
Into this wilderness they came and planted deep their seed.
Driving their kind-eyed cows along, trusting their faithful dogs,
To Swannanoa's stream they came and built their home of logs;
With a Bible on the mantel-shelf and a rifle over the door,
The Men of Buncombe started life a hundred years ago.
Look out on these everlasting hills and towering mountains blue,
Look out on these verdant, smiling plains, bright rivers winding through;
Look up at the grand ethereal vault, the arching, heaven-kissed dome —
Look out, look up at land and sky our fathers chose for Home!
Italian lands with sunsets grand, bright noons and rosy morns,
Match not the gorgeous draperies of our opalescent dawns;
And famed Arcadia holds no nook one half so fair as this,
Nor the "Island Vale Avillion" airs' which breathe so soft a kiss!

APPENDIX 655

Kings Mountain's fight and Cowpens' fray, Guilford and Alamance
The story of their valor tell with halo of romance;
But now, their swords to ploughshares turned, their strife with man is o'er;
They battle with harsh nature's moods and conquer as before.
The forests girdled by their axe in burning log-heaps glow,
While, pulsing 'neath its brood of grain, the mother-earth smiles through!
Many an idle stream is bound and harnessed to a wheel,
And thousands herbs and weeds are made their secret balms to yield.
The martins, nesting in the gourd, like sentinels kept ward
For robber hawks, while timid fowl strutted the wide barn-yard;
Lithe, antlered red-deer roamed the hills, close followed by their fawns,
Cropping the dainty, crisp young grass in dew-bespangled dawns.
The anvil's clang, the saw's hoarse snore, the bellow's wheezing lay
The scythe's long swish, the hammer's ring made music all the day;
The furrow-scoured ploughshare bright, the sharp Up of the hoe,
The mattock, flail and reaping-hook were friends of the men of yore.
The wild deer furnished food and clothes; and, on a thousand hills,
Their cattle grazed knee-deep in grass, their sheep browsed by the rills;
Myriads of gold-enameled bees winged their swift flight in glee,
And, honey laden, homeward hummed to hives beneath the tree.
Rude were these homes, but fairer far than many a palace grand,
For the love of God breathed everywhere — the love of God for man.
They manufactured aU they used and, with their muscles strong,
They felled the woods, they sowed the fields with many an old-world song.
They had no artificial wants, no artificial airs,
No false conventions warped them from nature's sweet courtesies :
And what cared they for heraldry or long ancestral tree,
When Church and State for years had bound the world's best yeomanry?
Their eyes turned backward but to see the wrongs which they had flown;
And men were valued for their worth — not for their sires' renown;
And, though the lettered page was closed, and learning held in thrall,
Nature's grand university stood open to them all;
And many a useful art they knew and practiced far and wide;
Grew flax and hemp, made shoes and tools and tanned the raw cow-hide;
By lunar signs they sowed their seeds, reaped, threshed and garnered in;
Made spoons and cups of bone and horn, candles in molds of tin.
The hearth, the deep-mouthed fire-place, the look the old clock had;
The swinging crane, the steaming pots, the ovens ember-clad; —
The room ranged round with feather-beds, the fire-lighted waU,
The sweet home-faces round the board lapsed memories recall.
Outside, the soft, low murmurous wind, moving in stately stride,
Deep-toned, portentious, awful, grand, sobbed on the mountain-side;
Broke on life's sentient silences, spoke to the spirit's ear —
Hushed as the music of the stars, but speaking, weird and clear.
Lonely the lot of those who first planted their roof-tree here,
With never a word from home or friends their lonely hearts to cheer :
Cold were the winter nights and long the short-lived winter days
Till spring, at last, broke into song with bird-note roundelays.

656 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
Far off in raptured solitudes and bosky mountain dells,
In fancy's footless wanderings, they heard home-chiming bells;
They heard the murmur of the sea in soughings of the pines
And traced again Ben Lomond's form in shadowy mountain Unes.
Sometimes, by dimpled, purling streams — high in the spirit's noon —
They stood again on Shannon's shore, or by the banks of Doon;
Over the wolf's fierce howl there rose the spinning-wheels' low croon,
And the panther's curdling shriek was drowned in the click of the clack
ing loom.
StiU, not unlighted were their lives by mirth and homely wit —
Orlando wrestled in the groves and Touchstone made his hit :
Corn-shuckings, dances, tourneys, games, the wrestling match and race,
Won many a smile from Chloe's eyes for Strephons' skill and grace.
Vesta kept lit the glowing hearth, or, if its fire died,
Aeneas came with flint and steel and all her wants supplied :
The tallow-dip, with constant drip, gave light with fitful start,
While Orpheus's music won Eurydice's soft heart.
Bearing their own they still could bear each other's burdens then —
Their humble board was free to all the wandering sons of men.
Together by their brawn they reared each other's cabin walls,
Sat by the sick and ministered each to the other's calls.
And holy men of God were there whose lives were a hymn of praise —
Their altar by each fire-side, their temples 'neath the trees;
Statesmen and soldiers, judges, priests have gone from these lowly doors,
Their hearts alight with love they learned as they knelt on puncheon floors.
Their crops laid-by, from cove and glen, from vale and sunny slope,
They gathered then as Druids did to feed the spirit's hope;
Camp-meeting lays the pfllared aisles of forest swept along,
Soared to the fretted, leafy vault in ecstacy of song.
Sweet-throated Davids of the fane, rapt wild-bird psalmists true,
Joined in man's grand, triumphant strain and thrilled the woodlands
through.
Anthems more glad did never melt cathedral solitudes
Than the sweet strains the song birds poured through these inspired woods.
Fair flowers swung by acolytes unseen their incense poured
From brimming censers, lavishly, to Him who was adored.
No need of robed priest or choir, nor shrill bell peaUng clear —
God in His holy temple was, in word, in song, in prayer!
And, so, they lived from year to year, sequestered from the world;
Driving their herds to market oft through weary weeks of toil.
And when War's dreaded drum-beat rolled o'er mountain peak and crag,
Some fought for the cause of Home and Law, and some for Right and the
Flag.
If some of the sheeted dead could rise and be with us today;
Could see yon two bright lines of steel climbing their heavenward way;

APPENDIX 657

Crossing the mountain passes high, bearing Steam's panting steeds,
They'd stand spell-bound, uncovered here, awed by our mighty deeds.
And time and distance they would see have almost passed away :
The league at last is but an ell, the long year but a day :
Our words, our music and our plays, though written years agone,
In phonograph arcanums Uve, as faces live in stone.
Lightning, the Arab of the sky, has been enslaved at last,
And bears our burdens, lights our homes and runs our errands fast;
Climbs the steep hill-sides, turns our wheels, plunges 'neath ocean's wave,
Flashes a signal over the seas the sinking ships to save.
But, ah, their eyes in pained surprise would note Wealth's lavish waste,
And weep at the shrunken forms of want and childhood's haggard face;
Would sigh at Fashion's furbelows, and Miss McFlimsey's moods,
And pity that excrescence, called the lah-de-dah-de doods.
No orison of poesy nor sculptured column's prayer
Pleads now to save from Lethe's wave the names we hold so dear;
But kind, remembering valleys keep some monuments they reared
In the rude forms of humble homes and hills of forests bared.
And we, their grandsons, honor now these men of kingly mold;
We glory in their poverty, their strife with want and cold;
We honor every mark and scar where stood a cabin-home,
And crumbUng grave-stones on the hill that mark the rest of some.
Gone now is many a mountain home, the buck-skin suit is gone,
And stately piles to heaven rise where diamonds rare are worn;
But the frugal Uves of honest toil the Men of Buncombe led
Have left their imprint on the soil tho' their hero-hearts be dead!
Our heritage? An honest name, strong arms and healthy frames,
The evidence that virtue's thorns wound less than vice's chains;
The proof that, 'twixt ourselves and wealth, Conscience should ever stand,
Full-armed for justice, truth and right — a drawn sword in her hands!
Story has told and Song has sung the deeds of other dimes,
And the record of men's victories is statued in their rhymes;
But, though the trump of Fame has missed their story, sad and true.
The Men of Buncombe builded weU, ay, better than they knew!
VANCE'S MONUMENT AT ASHEVILLE
By J. P. Arthur
Deep bedded in his native soil it stands,
Rugged and strong, like him of whom it speaks;
Firm and inspiring as his mountain peaks,
Beautiful as the work of his kind hands,
This monument all reverence commands.
What soul-enkindUng memories it wakes!
Almost the silence of the tomb it breaks!
Almost his clarion voice the scene commands!
Once more the wisdom of the sage unfolds
As the true statesman wrests from War's grim chance
W. N. C- 42

658 HISTORY OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA
His prostrate State, and her bright future molds.
Read the inscription, telUng at a glance
The briefest epic any language holds —
A patriot's story in that one word : VANCE!
POPULATION IN 1850
From Wheeler's History of North Carolina it appears
thatlin Ashe county there were 8,096 whites; 86 free
negroes; 595 slaves; 8,539 free population; 587 persons
over 20 who cannot read or write. Buncombe county con
tained 11,607 whites; 107 free negroes; 1,717 slaves; 12,738
federal population; 1,533 persons who cannot read or write.
Cherokee contained 6,493 whites; 337 slaves; eight free ne
groes; 6,703 representative population. Haywood county
contained 5,931 whites; 710 Indians; 418 slaves; 15 free ne
groes; 6,906 representative population. Henderson contained
5,892 whites; 924 slaves; 37 free negroes; 6,483 representative
population. Macon had 5,613 whites; 121 Indians; 549 slaves;
207 free negroes; 6,169 representative population. Watauga
contained 3,242 whites; 29 free negroes; 129 slaves; 3,348
representative population.
County 1910 1900 1890
AUeghany  7,745 7,759 6,523
Ashe  19,074 19,581 15,628
Avery 
Buncombe  49,798 44,288 35,266
Cherokee  14,136 11,860 9,976
Clay  3,909 4,532 4,197
Graham  4,749 4,343 3,313
Haywood  21,020 16,222 13,346
Henderson  16,262 14,104 12,589
Jackson  12,998 11,853 9,512
Macon  12,191 12,104 10,102
Madison  20,132 20,644 17,805
MitcheU  17,245 15,221 12,807
Swain  10,403 8,401 6,577
Transylvania  7,191 6,620 5,881
Watauga  13,556 13,417 10,611
Yancey  12,072 11,464 9,490
WILLIAM MITCHELL DAWSON
The reference on page 152 is to a narrative by J. M. Daw
son which has been withdrawn.

INDEX PAGE
Abbott, J. C. Sketch of  186
Abel, James. Veteran of Revolution  112
Abingdon. Largely Presbyterian  215
Aborigines. Were Catawbas and Cherokees  10
Acts of Cession. Congress urged States to cede western lands . . 28
North Carolina cedes Tennessee  28
Objects of act of cession  38
Preempted pensioners' reservations  37, 38
Twenty-nine million acres ceded  113
Tennessee's view of cession  113
Act void if not accepted  116
Adair, John. Traded with Indians  12
Adams (Judge), Joseph S. Sketch of  404
Adams, Minister. Disregarded instructions  26
Adams, Talbott W. Editor of newspaper  452
Adams, W. J. Owned nickel mine  194
Addington, Henry. Early settler of Macon  173
Agriculture. As formerly practiced  254, 289
Pacts about climate, soil and products  519, 520
Alamance. Effect of battle of  74
Bancroft praised heroes of  75
Albemarle Sound. Included in colonial grant  19
Alexander, James and John. Sketch of  196
Alexander, James Mitchell. Sketch of  150, 152
Alexander (Governor), Nathaniel. Sent Governor Irvin copy
of act  34
Alexander, Samuel H. Hero of Emma burglary  307
Alleghany. Meaning of name  7, 196
Alleghany County. Early history of  196 to 200
Civil War and Reconstruction trials  614, 615, 616
Allen, Isaac. Boundary line commissioner  48
Allen, A. Irvine. Chain bearer  182
Allen (Col.), William. Veteran of Revolution  112
Allison (Hon. ) , John. Quoted  75
Allison, S. H. Facts about  207, 208
Allman, John R. Opened first hotel  175
Allman, Nathan G. Sketch of  177
Alum Cave. Medicines obtained from  49
Amnions (Rev.), Joshua. Sketch of  176
Andrews (Col.), A. B. Letters quoted from  477, 478, 479
Geyser named for, described  478
Ancient Diggings. Facts about  12
659

660 INDEX

PAGE
Anderson and Ray. See "Ray and Anderson.''
Anderson Family. Sketch of  179
Anderson Road. Facts about  241
Anecdotes of Bench and Bar. Several related, 344, 379, 384,387, 391
Angel, Wm. Early settler of Macon  173
Animal Pictures. On Paint Rock  47
Antes (Brother), J. H. Left Edenton  61
Found whetstones, etc  64
Appalachian. Name preferred by geographers  7
Appalachian Training School. Boone cabin stood near  82
Facts about  436, 437
Apples. Facts about  518, 519, 520
North Carolina mountains the home of  520
Facts and literature about  519, 520
Arms. Manufacture of in Civil War  638
Arrellano, Luna Y. Sent to Florida  12
His lieutenant led expedition  12
Arrington, Eli. Carried Rhynehart when dying  49, 309
Arthur, John P. Poems by  7, 60, 123, 654, 657
Located Boone's trail  82, 83, 84
Articles of Confederation. Western lands an obstacle to  27
Asbury (Bishop), Francis. Crossed Cataloochee, Note 48  59
Sketch of and diary extracts  215 to 223
Asheville in Civil War. A military center, etc  602
Locations of Confederate buildings in  602, 603
Raids upon and capture of town  619, 620, 621
Asheville. On old Indian battle ground  10
Dispute over selection as county seat  18
Georgia and N. C. commissioners met at  34
First named Morristown  145
John Burton's grant covered part of site  145
Sketches of the old town  146 to 149
Gravity line  510
Asheville and Greenville Plank Road. Building of, etc  237
Asheville Street Railway. Building of, etc  509
Ashe County. Old battle ground in  108
Early history of  159 to 166
Few evidences of Indian occupancy  250
Finest county in State, and needs railroad  489
Lost population for want of railroads  489
Askew Family. Sketch of  196
Ashland. Schools and paper  437
Aston (Miss), Anna. Published Woman's edition of the Citizen, 146
Sketch of  445
Aston (Judge), E. J. Sketch of  396
Atkin (Rev.), Thomas. Established newspaper  449
Atkinson (Capt), Natt. Sketch of  453
Atkinson (Bishop), Thomas. Connection with Valle Crucis  432

INDEX 661

PAGE
Attorneys. Sketches of several  380 to 406
Avery (Judge), A. C. Sketch of  405
Avery County. Early history of  213, 214
Gained population because of railroad  489
Avery- Jackson Duel. Accounts of  357 to 359
Avery's Place. Formerly Bright's  Ill
Avery, WaightstiU. First appearance in North Carolina  89
Grants to  140
Fought duel with Jackson  357 to 359
Avery (Col.), W. W. Killed by Kirk's men  607, 608
Axley, Felix. Father of Murphy Bar  186
Bacon. A "recruit of"  46
Bailey, James, Sr. Commissioner to select county seat  200
Bailey (Judge), John L. Sketch of  398
Baird, Bedent. Bought Burton's lots  145, 295
Baird, Bedent E. Wrote A. E. Baird  295
Baird, David F. Sketch of  351
Baird (Miss), Delilah. Romance of  300, 331, 332
Baird Families. Sketches of the two  294, 295
Baird, Israel. Home of in Asheville  148
Baker, George F. Reestablished Andrews geyser  478
Baker, John. In advance guard  105
Baker, Jonathan. Cowed horse thieves  626
Baker, Silas. Poisoned Wm. Mast and wife  347, 348
Baker, Zachariah. Sketch of  165
Bakersville, History of  201
Balds. Described  9, 519, 530, 531, 533
Baldwin (Rev.), Wm. Pioneer preacher  224
Ballard, David. Worked for 25 cents a day  289
Ballou Family. Pioneers in iron mining  547, 548, 559, 560
Balsam Trees. Cover many mountains  530
None on the TJnakas  540
Bank of Cape Fear. Branch of at Asheville  147
Banner Elk. Arrowheads found at  10
Baptists. Just appearing in 1776  14
Baring, Charles B. Built at Flat Rock  493
Sketch of, with romance  494
Built "The Lodge," and "Tumble Down Style"  496
Baring (Mrs.), Charles S. Built St. Johns-in-the- Wilderness .. . 494
Baring (Mrs.), Susan. Wrote peculiar poem  185
Barkers. Fanciful sect  17
Barnard, Alexander. Sketch of  207
Barnard, Hezekiah. Boast of  286
Barnard, Luke. Early settler of Macon  207
Barnett's Station. Boundary line party reached  46
Barnett, William. Boundary line commissioner  34
Battle, Abraham. Early citizen of Jackson  192
Battleground. Asheville on site of old Indian  10

662 INDEX

PAGE
Battleground. One in Ashe County  108
Forgotten one in Alleghany  329
Battle (Dr.), S. W. Built street railway  509
Battle, Wain. Helped carry Rhynehart  209
Baxter (Judge), John. Sketch of  397
Baxter-Erwin Duel. Account of  368, 369
Beale, William. Sketch of  187
Bean, William. Lived in Tennessee in 1769  67
First permanent settler in Tennessee  69
Bear Meat. Col. Byrd discovered merits of  21
Bears. Mrs. Norton killed one  341
Mrs. Clauson drowned one  334
Bell (Hon.), George. Congressman  208
Bell (Mrs.), Katy. Taught school  147
Bench and Bar. See Chapter XV 
Berin, W. C. Edited North Carolina Baptist  452
Berry, Logan. Sketch of  176
Berry, William. Sketch of  186
Best, W. J. & Co. Owned W. N. C. R. R. Co  476
Bible. Pioneer's right to interpret  13
Parts of translated into Cherokee language  574
Big Glades. Tories routed there  108
Biltmore House and Village. Facts about  505, 506
Bingham (Major), Harvey. Sketch of  624
Bismarck, Otto Von. Collegemate of Judge King  496
Blackburn (Hon.), E. Spencer. Sketches of  189, 646
Black, Burrell. Piloted Boone  82
Blair, W. P. Stage coach contractor  242
Blalock, Tilmon. Commissioner to lay off lots  200
Blassingame, John. Boundary line commissioner  29
Bledsoe, Anthony. Extended Virginia boundary line in 1771 ... 23
Blood Avenger. Facts about  573, 574
Blount, John Gray. Land speculator  129
Granted one million acres  131
Suffered land to become forfeited  137
Strother devised land to  138
Blount (Hon.), William. Sketch of  129
Expelled from United States Senate  130
Blowing Rock. Two springs, flowing east and west  8
Description of; hotels and residents of  500
Fortified by Colonel Kirk during war  617
Blue Ridge. True water divide  8
Peaks of highest east of Rockies  9
First white man to cross in North Carolina  11
Slow approach of whites to  70
Bly or Blythe, Bettie. Heroine of "Yonaguska"  187
Persuaded Yonaguska to spare Welch  574
Blythe (Rev.), James. Edited newspaper  452
Blythe, Joseph. Boundary line commissioner  29

INDEX 663

PAGE
Board of Trade (London). Action of as to N. C. line  24
Boat Ride. A thrilling one  339
Bone and Horn. Uses of in early days  274
Books. Primitive school books  422
Boone's Cove. Boundary line party reached  45
Boone, Daniel. Killed bear in 1760  69
Employed by Henderson  69
Companion of James Robertson  69
Why Boone was not in Revolutionary War  79
His home at Holman's ford  81
His first trip to Kentucky  81
Inscription on Boone Tree doubted  81
His trail in North Carolina located in 1909  82, 83
His trail in North Carolina marked in 1913  94
Monument erected on site of his cabin  83
His relatives in Watauga and Ashe Counties  84
Henderson's connection with  85
Boone's "Split-bullet"  86
Sketch of Boone and Henderson by Judge Clark  86
Boone's family  87
His poverty and litigation  91
Recorded evidence of residence of the Boones in Watauga
and Ashe counties  94
Boone, Jesse. Deed to Elrod  84
Boone, Jonathan. Deed to Hardin  94
Boone, Squire, Sr. Sketch of  87
Boone, Squire, Sr. Visited Holston in 1767  81
Boone Courthouse. Facts about  189
Citizens killed, Stoneman and Kirk's raids  189, 617, 618
Botany and Botanists. Former attracted latter in early days, 513, 514
Names and work of  513, 514
John Lyon, Pathetic sketch of  343
Boundary Lines. (See also "Indian Boundary Lines.") Con
nected story of never told before  18
Virginia and North Carolina lines  19 to 23
North and South Carolina lines  23 to 31
Georgia and North Carolina lines  31 to 37
Tennessee and North Carolina lines  37 to 51
Litigation and disputes over  56 to 58, 185
Bounties. Forge  276
Powder  275
Bower (Col.), George. Sketch of  164, 165
Bowman's Bluff. Facts about  183, 184
Bowman (Capt.) . Fell at Ramseur's Mill  71
Bowman House. Site of  201
Bowman (Judge), J. W. Sketch of  404
Brabson (Doctors), A. W. and A. C. Sketches of  175
Brevard. Early history of  202> 203

664 INDEX

PAGE
Bridges. Facts about  240, 241
Bright's Place. Facts about  Ill
Bright's Trace. Followed by Sevier  110
Bristol, G. W. Sketch of  205, 206
Brittain (Gen.), Ben. S. In senate four times......  173
Register deeds in Cherokee  186
Brittain, Phillip. Helped form Henderson County  181
Brittain, William. Kept hotel  493
Brooks, Jesse. Merchant in Murphy  186
Brown, Byron. Facts about  207
Brown Family. Sketch of  190
Brown, Jacob. Opened store on NoUechucky  67
Brown (Mrs.), James Potter. Formerly Cora Urqhardt  493
Brown, John S. Commissioner to settle dispute  200
Brown, T. Caney. Started good roads movement  245
Brown, W. A. G. Edited CaroUna Baptist  452
Brownlow (Rev.), W. G. Sketch of  226
His quarrel with Posey  226, 227
Bryan, Francis. Early settler of Glade Creek  197
Bryan, J. M. Edited Carolina Baptist  452
Bryan, W. L. Built first hotel in Boone  189
Built Boone Cabin Monument  84
Awarded prize for buckwheat  520
Bryant, Morgan. Took up Mulberry Fields  65
Justice of court  197
Bryson, Andrew. Killed by Hall  50, 371
Bryson City. Early history of  208, 210
Bryson (Col.), Daniel. Sketch of  193
Bryson, Goldman. Killed by Confederates  187, 188
Bryson (Col.), Thad. D. First representative of Jackson  192
Sketch of  210
Bryson, William H. Early settler of Macon  173
Buck Forrest. Facts about  204
Buck Hotel. Location of  148
Buckley (Prof.), S. B. Measured mountains  49
Buckwheat. Prizes for best  520
Buffaloes. Facts about  250, 251, 253, 517, 518
First seen by whites  518
Buffalo Trails. Only roads In 1752  62
Location of many  251
Bugle. Called to prayer and work at Valle Crucis  431
Sile Baker's  348
Buncombe County. Early history of  143, 145
Roads in  235
Backward in 1890  245
Subscription to railroad stock  479
Genealogy of  628, 629
Buncombe (Col.), Edward. County named for  143
Sketch of  653

_^  INDEX 665
PAGE
Buncombe Good Roads Association. Facts about  246
Buncombe Turnpike. Building of  237
Ending of  245
Burgin (Gen.), Alney. Sketch of  360, 361
Burglary, The Emma. Described  307
Burkett, Daniel. Early resident of Jefferson  163
Burleson, Aaron. Killed by Indians  250
Burleson (Mrs.), Eliza. Facts about  294, 295
Burleson Family. Sketch of  295
Burnett, (Rev.) , J. S. Pioneer preacher  225
Burns (Capt.), Otway. Sketch of  178
Monument to  179
Burnsville. Early history of  178, 179
Burrington, Governor. Proclamation of  23, 24
His claims as to boundary line  24
Burt (Gen.), Armistead. Knew of Calhoun-Hanks-Lincoln tra
dition  318
Burton, John. Sold land covering part of Asheville  145, 295
Burton (Judge), R. H. Boundary line commissioner  29
Buxton, (Rev.) Jarvis. Took charge of Valle Crucis  430
Removed to Asheville in 1847  430
Bynum's Bluff. A noted place  537
Cabins. Of pioneers described  71,258,259,262, 263
Dave Orr's  41
Esmeralda's  538
Cades Cove. Boundary line party reached  50
Caesar's Head. Commissioners reach agreement at  35
Caldwell, (Rev.) Joseph. Showed error as to latitude  25
Scientist on boundary line survey  34
Calhoun. Name of first county seat of Mitchell  201
Calhoun, (Hon.) J. C. Foretells height of mountains  8
Tradition concerning Nancy Hanks and A. Lincoln. .317 to 320
Calhoun-Hanks Tradition. Facts relating to  317 to 320
Calloway Family. Sketch of  87, 88
Calloway, Joseph. Notified Robert Cleveland  105
Calloway, Richard. His connection with Cleveland's capture 103, 104
Calloway, Thomas. His connection with Cleveland's capture 103, 105
Calloway, William. His connection with Cleveland's capture, 105
Calvert, Original name of Colvard family  293
Cameron, (Col.) J. D. Edited newspaper  451
Camp Vance Raid. Account of Colonel Kirk's  605 to 609
Campbell, David. Elected Judge in Franklin  113
Cane Creek. Church established in  224
Candler, George W. Sketch of  393
Candler, (Mrs.) Mattie S. Quoted  101
Cannon, (Judge) R. H. Sketches of  392, 404

666 INDEX

PAGE
Cansler, James. Sketch of  175
Cams, Thos. P. Boundary line commissioner  34
Carpenter, William. Register deeds of Graham  210
Carpenters. Of old times and new  262, 263
Carrier, Edwin G. Facts about his enterprises  509
Carriger Family. Facts about  325
Carringer, (Rev.) Isaac. Sketch of  212
Carson Family. Sketch of  71
Carson, Joseph. Owned Buck Forest  204
Carson, (Mrs.) Lucy A. Recollections of Jefferson  163
Carson, (Hon.) Samuel P. Sketch of  360
Carson- Vance Duel. Account of  359 to 368
Carter, (Judge) E. D. Sketch of  398
Carter, Landon. Speaker of Franklin senate  113
Carter, Thomas D. Sketch of  456
Carver, Reuben. Surveyor of Graham  210
Cases Decided. See Chapters XVI and XIX.
Cashiers Valley. Early history of  497
Caswell, J. W. Boundary line commissioner  22
Catalan Forges. Described  277 to 279
Mentioned  547
Cataloochee Stories. Related by Col. A. T. Davidson  335, 336
Cataloochee Valley. Civil War outrages in  616, 617
Cataloochee Turnpike. End of first boundary line survey. .. .48, 52
Crossed by Asbury in 1810, Note 48 on page  59
Cathey, James H. Quoted  309, 310, 311
Cathey, (Col.) Joseph. Sketch of  171
Catholics. Not liked by settlers  13
First to send missionaries to Cherokees  568
Cavaliers. Had no kinship with Presbyterians  13
Celo, or Bolens Pyramid. Facts about  181
Celts. Settlers of 1730  13
Cemetery Company, the Asheville. Incorporated  508
Cession. See Act of Cession 
Chambers, Joseph. Sketch of  170
Chambers, Samuel. Deserted Sevier  110
Chapman, Thomas. Elected clerk of Franklin legislature  113
Character of Early Settlers. Roosevelt's and Miss Morley's esti
mates  13 to 16
Chastine, Abner. Facts about  207
Chastine, J. P. Appointed sheriff of Clay  205
Cherokees. See Chapter XXVI.
Cherokee Indians. See "Indian Boundary Lines," "Indian Mas
sacres," "Indian Mounds," "Indian Names," "Indian
Tribes," and "Indian Treaties," in this Index.
Those living in Graham and hiding out  212
Origin of and resemblance to the Hebrews  566
Superior tribe  566
Tradition as to white predecessors  567

INDEX 667

PAGE
Cherokee Indians. Tradition as to Lilliputian race  567
Introduction of small arms and smallpox  567
City of refuge  567
Early incidents and wars  568
Massacre at Fort Loudon  568, 569
Three States send punitive expeditions  569 to 571
Treaties : facts about several  571, 572
See also "Treaties With Indians"  54 to 56, 90
Nanakatahkee and Junaluska, Facts about  572
Yonaguska. Facts about  572
Blood Avenger  573, 574
Removal Treaties. Facts about  572, 573
Baptists established missions  574
Sequoya and his syllabary  574
Portions of Bible translated into Cherokee  575
Outrages follow discovery of gold in Georgia  575
Cruelties of the Removal  576 to 579
Escape, capture and death of Old Charley  578, 579
How Eastern Band came to remain in N. C  579, 580
Recognition of rights of Eastern Band  580
N. C. permits this band to remain permanently  852
Lanman's accounts of the Cherokees in N. C  582, 583
Why Col. Thomas enlisted Indians in his legion  583, 584
Cherokee scouts and Home Guards  585
Confederate Congress provided funds  586
A few Cherokees desert to Federals  586, 587
Eastern Band adopt new government  587
Status of Indian lands  587
Arbitration settled litigation  588
Quakers took charge of education, etc  589
Suit for balance due under Removal Treaty  590
Eastern Band incorporated  590
Legal status of band still uncertain  591
Present material condition  591
Litigation over sale of timber  592
Result left in doubt  594
N. C. has always stood for the citizeznship of Band  594
Final distribution of funds due Eastern Band  594, 595
Western Band dissolved as a tribe  595, 596
Population of Eastern Band  596
How to make arrow and spear-heads  596, 597
Cherokee Myths. Condensation of a few  597 to 599
Cherokee County. Early history of  185 to 188
Cherryfield. Location and settlement of  2°4
Cherry, J. P. Sheriff of Clay  205
Childs, L. D. and Eben. Gave land for county seat  200, 201
Eben appointed commissioner to lay off lots  200
Childs Place. Passed by Sevier  HI
Childsville. Formerly called "Calhoun"  2°1

668 INDEX

PAGE
"Chimbleys and Shinies." Described  540
Chimneys, The. Described  534
Chimney Rock. Described  538
Chissel, Fort. Built in 1758  12
Christy, John H. Sketch of  449
Chunn, Samuel. Owned part of Asheville  147
Sketch of  151
Churches, Facts about some of the early  283
Churton, Mr. Stopped by Indians. Facts about  61, 62
Churton, William. Boundary line commissioner  22
Civil Engineers on railroad  472 to 474
Civil War Period. See Chapter XXVII.
Civil War outrages. Account of a few, 600, 611, 612, 613, 614,
615, 616, 617, 618
Clark, Richard. Fed White when lying out  335
Named Bunk Mountain  336
Clark, (Hon.) Walter. Sketch of Boone and Henderson  86
Clauson, (Mrs.) Peggy. Drowned bear  334
Clay County. History of  205 to 208
Its need of railroads  489
Clayton, Ephraim. Settled on Mills River, etc  202, 203
Clayton, George. Built first courthouse  202
Clayton, George and John. Facts about  182, 202
Clegg & Donohoe. Started Evening Journal  454
Clemmons, E. T. Stagecoach contractor  243
Cleveland, (Col.) Ben. His capture and rescue  101 to 106
His character and death  107, 108
Cleveland, (Capt.) Robert. Rescued his brother  105
Clingman, (Gen.) Thomas Lanier. Measured mountains. 297 to 299
Mount Mitchell controversy  297 to 299
Highest peak once bore his name. Note 13, page  326
Noted and explained natural phenomena  306
Fought duels  367
Dr. Baird's tribute to  384
Opposed Littlefield's election  462
Sketch of  644, 645
Monument to  653
Clingman- Yancey Duel. Account of  367
Clocks. Sun dials the only ones in early days  282
Grandfather, owned by Hortons  101
Cloud, (Judge) John M. Stories of  344
Clyde, Logan & Buford. Sketch of  477
Coche, (Mme.). Facts about  147
Coffey, Anna and Smith. Related to Boone  84, 85
Coffey Family. Sketch of  191
Coffey, T. J. & Bro. Built courthouse, ran hotel, etc  189
Cole, Arthur D. Bought and sold roots and herbs  289, 331
Cole, R. H. Lost office because of Big Snow  297
Coleman, James. First settler of Clay  207

INDEX 669

PAGE
Coleman, (Col.) David. Sketch of  403
Coleman, Mark. Early settler of Macon  173
Coleman, William. Kept post office  149
Collins, Robert. Sketch of  209
Cut riding way to Clingman's Dome  299
Colonial Charters. Conferred inchoate rights only  26
Colvard, Andrew and Jefferson. Daring frontiersmen  188
Founded influential families  188
Colvard, Buck and Neil. Men of integrity  187
Colvard Family. Facts about  210 to 212
Colvard, Peyton. Sketch of  293
Daughter born when Negro Mountain fell  293
Commissioners. See Chapter XIX. To settle with Swepson
and Littlefield  462
Their settlement with Swepson  262, 263
Their settlement with Littlefield  264
Commissioners of State Boundaries.
Defended by W. L. Saunders  18
Disagreements between those of North Carolina and Vir
ginia  19 to 24
For N. C. and S. C. lines, incidents, etc  24 to 30
For N. C. and Georgia, incidents, etc  31 to 35
N. C. and Tennessee, two lines, diaries, etc  38 to 51
Commisteen, Big Fat. A Cherokee living in Graham  212
Cone, Moses H. Sketch of  501
Cone Family. Sketch of  501
Cone Memorial Park  501
Congress. Instructed Jay and Adams as to treaty  26
Confederacy. Our section's relation to  600, 601, 603, 604
Strong Union sentiment in mountains  600, 604, 614
Confiscation. Of property of persons disloyal  632
Conley, Joseph. Commissioner to select county seat  200
Conley, W. H. Important citizen of Jackson  192
Constitutions. Of State of Franklin  113
Of Cherokees  573, 587
Locke's  629
Of 1835  633
Of 1875  641
Continental Line. Grants and pensions to soldiers and offi
cers of  134> 135
Conventions. At Jonesboro, Tenn  H3
At New Echota  573
Of 1835 ."  633
Convicts. Made county roads  245
Made good citizens of Murphy  479
Should be employed building mountain railroads  489
Cooperation. Among early settlers  225. 273, 274
Cooper Family. Sketch of 
Cooper, (Capt.) J. W. Sketches of  187. 212

670 INDEX

PAGE
Cooper, Meredith D. Built Hume Place and mill  202
Cooper, N. F. County commissioner of Graham  210
Corn. De Soto passed through fine growth of  12
First 100 bushels to an acre  109
De Soto's soldiers passed through country poor in  518
John M. Sawyer took prize for best at Columbia Exposi
tion  519
Corotuck Inlet. Boundary line commissioners meet at  20
Cotton. Small patches of raised in early days  255
CounciU Family. Sketch of  94
Council!, (Judge) W. B. Sketch of  189
CounciU, Jacob M. Killed by Stoneman's men  617
Counties. Formation of the first  630
Courts. Judges ordered to hold in ceded territory  113
Pleas and Quarter Sessions only in Watauga Settlement. . . . 113
First courts held in Buncombe  144
First courts held in Ashe  159
First courts held in Haywood  167
Haywood Superior Court held in Buncombe at first  169
Establishment and jurisdiction of various  373, 374, 387
Covenanters. Early settlers were descendants of  13
Cox, (Dr.) Aras B. Quoted  109
Sketch of  164
Cox Family. Lived on border of Ashe  198
Coxe, (Col.) Frank. Built Battery Park Hotel  508
Crab Apples. Spangenberg party find  65
Crawford, James. Deserted Sevier  110
Crawford, James G. Sketch of  175
Crawford, (Hon.) W. T. Sketch of  649
Criminals. Mountains not settled by  14
Unsettled boundary lines sanctuary for  19
Seclusion required short stay of  33
Crisp Family. Sketch of  212
Crockett, David. Married Miss Patton on Swannanoa  364
Attended Vance-Carson duel  364
Crouce. Settled on Blue Ridge  198
"Crusoe Jack." Tradition as to grant to  239
Currency. Of State of Franklin  113
Little money in early days  284
Legislation concerning  632
Curry, Mr. Entertained boundary line party  42
Currituck Inlet. Compass set on shore of  21
Curtis, (Capt.) William A. Questioned correctness of map  36
Cutbirth, Ben. Sketch of  80, 81
Lived on New River above Old Fields  103
Abused by Riddle  103
Daughter of abused by Riddle  104
Cutbirth, Daniel. Planned to rescue Cleveland  104

INDEX 671

PAGE
D hlonega, Ga. Discovery of gold at  575
Dandridge, Will. Boundary line commissioner  20
Daughters of American Revolution.
Marked Boone's trail  94
Erected monuments on Sevier's trail  124
Arden Chapter  652
Dorcas Bell Love Chapter  652
Edward Buncombe Chapter  652
Davenport's Place. Sevier's men rest at spring at  Ill
Davenport, W. Kept diary of second N. C.-Tenn. survey  48
Davidson, (Col.) A. T. Recollections of Charles Moore  99
Recollections of R. and T. Love  127
Recollections of many others  169, 170, 224, 225, 422, 423
His old stories of Cataloochee  335, 336
Sketch of  400, 401, 402, 403
Opposed Littlefield's election as president  462
Davidson, Ben. Asbury lectured at home of  217
His creek now called Pisgah Forest station, note on page . . 214
Davidson, (Miss) Elvira. Sketch of  322, 323
Davidson, George. Chain bearer  39
Davidson, Harvey. Sketch of  187
Davidson, "Neddy." Stories of  342
Davidson, Samuel. Killed by Indians  143, 250
Davidson, (Hon.) T. F. Contributed to Asheville's Centenary . . 146
Davidson, (Col.) Wm. Secured act to create Buncombe County, 143
First court held at home of  144
First Senator from Buncombe  151
Sketch of  151
Davidson, W. Mitchell. Sketch of  152
Davie, Oroondates. Boundary line commissioner  22
Davis, Ethan. Owned mill place  202
Davis, Nathaniel. Early settler of Madison  196
Davis, Thomas. Built courthouse  202
Davis, Warren. Carson's second in duel  361
"Davis." Early name of Bakersville  201
Deaver, R. M. Founder Asheville Saturday Register  451
Deaver, (Col.) Reuben. Built and operated Sulphur Springs.. 502
De Choiseul, Count. Lived at Flat Rock  493
French consul  i  496
Declarations of Independence. First at Halifax  75
Mecklenburg Resolves  96
Deer. Facts about  295, 296
De Journett, W. C. Surveyed Alleghany County  197
Delk, Randall. Conviction and execution of  387, 388
Dellinger, M. P. and W. Filed builder's lien  201
Delosia, Edward. Facts about him and his mine  338
Democracy of Colonists. Described by Colonel Byrd  74
Denton, John. Sketch of  212
De Soto, Fernando. Named Appalachians  6

672 INDEX

PAGE
De Soto. Might have reached our mountains  12
Devil's Cap. Described  536
Devil's Courthouse. Described  534
Devil's Creek. Facts about  44
Devil's Looking Glasses. One near Greasy Cove  45
One near Zim Roberts's  50
Deweese, John L. Settled with railroad  460, 461
Dick, Judge R. P. Sketch of  400
Dickey, B. K. and George. Sketches of  173, 187
Dickson, (Dr.) Samuel. Sketch of  424
Dillard, (Capt.) Thomas. Daughter married Robert Love  125
Dills, "Bill." Confession of  302
Dills, (Hon.) J. R. Member of influential family  192
Dills, Phillip. Pioneer of Jackson County  192
Dills, W. A. Pioneer of Jackson County  192
Dillsboro. Efforts to remove courthouse to  193
Talc and other minerals near  194
Disputed Territory. Facts regarding  19
In the "Rainbow Country"  50, 56
Lost Cove controversy  57
Macon County line  57
Line between Cherokee, Graham and Tenn  58
Doak, (Rev.) Samuel. Pioneer teacher  421
Dobb's Fort. Facts about  69
Dodge, (Rev.) D. Stuart. Helped schools  439
Dogs. Getting up an appetite for  73
Facts about  254, 269
Given by Indians for food  517
William Sawyer's faithful  339
Killed sheep  524
Donelson's, (Col.) John, party. Met Richard Henderson  23, 93
Dotson, Elijah. Long distance quarrel  347
Dotson, Joseph. Sketch of  184
Douthett's Gap. Boundary line commissioners agree at  35
Douthett, Father John. Visited by Asbury  219
Doughton Family. Always prominent in Ashe and Alleghany. . 198
Doughton, Joseph. Early settler in Ashe  198
Dougherty, (Prof.) D. D. Took charge of Watauga Democrat.'. 452
Dougherty Brothers. Started and conducted schools. . .434, 436, 437
Draper, (Dr.) Lyman C. Quoted  103 to 108
Drayton, (Rev.) John G. Originated Ravenswood and preached
at St. Johns  496
Owned Magnolia Gardens on Ashley River  496
"Dragging Canoe." Opposed Henderson's purchase  87
Dream. Rachel Grant's remarkable one  338
Duckett, Josiah. Soldier of the Revolution  196
Ducktown Copper Mine. Erroneous tradition as to loss of  18
Duckworth Family. Prominent and influential  202, 203
Duel Hill. First county seat of Madison  195

INDEX 673

PAGE
Duels. Laws concerning  356
Duncanson, F. S. Made oil painting of old Asheville  146
Dunkards. Law for relief of  632
Dyche, A. M. Sketch of  186
Dyer, Ben. Sued Delilah Baird  301
Dyes. Facts about  290
Eagle Hotel. Owned by the Pattons  149
Easter Chapel. Visited by Bishop Ives  432
Ears. Certificates given when missing  375, 379
Echota. City of Refuge, facts about  566, 567
Old capital of Cherokees, location, etc  567
Eden, Governor. Agreement with Governor Spottswood  21
Edenton Tea Party. Account of  629
Edney, (Gen.) Bayles. Wit and humor stories of  391
Edney, Govan. Sketch of  184
Edney, James M. Controlled newspaper  449
Edney, Samuel. Asbury visited  222
Education. North Carolina a laggard in, and Aycock's record, 420, 421
Quakers take charge of that of Cherokees  589
Edwards, David and William. Early settlers of Ashe  198
Edwards, Morgan. Commissioner to lay off lots  197
Eggleston, (Dr.) W. G. Edited The Citizen  451
EUzabethton, Tenn. Battle monument at  275
Isaac Lincoln owned lots in  324
Elk Cross Roads. Cleveland taken by when prisoner  104
Eller, Jacob, Henry and John. Sketches of  166
Ellicott's Rock. Georgia and N. C. line begins on  31
Exact location of  36
Emigrants. Facts about the early ones  13
Emma Burglary. Described  307
England. Owned nothing north of 31 degrees north lattitude ... 26
England, Eph. Built courthouse  202
Enloe, Abraham. Tradition as to Nancy Hanks and Abraham
Lincoln  308 to 317
Enloe, Asaph. Early settler of Macon  173
Enloe, W. A. Of a leading family  192
Entry and entry takers. Office of closed in Tennessee  137
Floating entries described  142
Episcopalians. Not liked by early settlers  13
Equoneetly Path. Boundary line party reached  50
Erwin, Andrew. Sketch of  I53
Visited by Asbury  221
Erwin-Baxter Duel. Account of  368, 369
Erwin, W. C. Commissioner to settle dispute  200
Estatoe. Legends of  213
Evans, David. Donated land for Sparta  I87
Everett, Col. Bought Lowndes farm  203
W. N. C— 43

674 INDEX

PAGE
Ewart, (Judge) H. G. Sketch of  400
Explorers. Names of several of earliest  77, 78
Fagg, (Col.) John A. Attended duel  370, 371
Fined Superior Court Judge  378
Fain, Mercer. Sketch of  186
Fairs. Two ordered for Buncombe by the court  387
Western North Carolina Fair incorporated  508
Farmer, Henry Tudor. Sketch of  494, 495
Farnsworth, David. Kept stock stand  196
Farnsworth, Robert. Lived at Jewel Hill  196
Farragut, Admiral. Of mountain pioneer stock  15
Farthing Family. Sketch of family of preachers  189, 190
Farthing, J. Watts. Owns Jesse Boone deed, whose wife he
knew  84
Farthing, (Rev.) L. W. Related stories of old times  354
Farthing, Thomas. Commissioner to select county seat  200
Fashion. On a back seat  257
Fences. Made of most valuable hardwoods  254
No-fence law adopted  641
Ferguson, (Col.) Patrick. Death of  102
Fessenden, (Prof.) N. A. Principal of school  208
Fire Hunters. By day, described by Col. Byrd  252
By night, described by Col. Bryan  522
Fish and Fish Traps. Facts about  281, 282
Trout and bass  521
Fist-Fights. Facts about  274
FitzwiUiam, Richard. Career as boundary line commissioner, 20, 21
Flails and Threshing Floors. Facts about  281
Flat Top Manor. Facts about  501
Flax. Facts about  282
Flowers, Wild. Facts about  512 to 514
Flower Mission. Origin and history of  445
Flournoy, Thomas. Boundary line commissioner  34
Forests. Facts about the primeval  512
Wealth of and fires in  515
Pioneers in  514
Still standing in Western North Carolina  516
Advance in price of forest lands  517
Forest Reserves. Table showing facts about.  516
Advance in price of timber lands  517
Originators of movement for  516
Pisgah Forest leased to Carr  517
Pisgah Forest sold to United States  506
Forge-Bounties. Terms upon which they were granted  276
Forges. Description of old Catalan  277 to 279
Description of water trompes or blasts  278
Catalan forges and water trompes mentioned  547

INDEX 675

PAGE
Fort Defiance. Primitive houses at  71
Fort Dobbs. Facts about  69
Fort Loudon. Facts about  67 to 69
At junction of Tellico Creek and Little Tenn. Massacre at 568
No monument marks spot  70
Fort Prince George. At head of Savannah, where Oconostota
was held as hostage  568
Indians driven from neighborhood of  568
Forts for Removal of Cherokees. Names and locations of . .576, 577
Foster, (Capt.) R. P. Built railroad  509
Foster, Thomas. Sketch of  153
Visited by Asbury  216
Set a slave free  386
France. Action after Revolutionary War  26
Francis, Michael. Sketch of  382
Franklin, Jesse. Organized corps of surveyors  174
County seat of Macon named for  174
Franklin, State of. See Chapter VI.
Franklin, town of. Sacred town of Cherokees  174
Named for Jesse Franklin  174
Early history of  174, 175
Battle fought near, in which British were defeated  568
"Freest of the Free." Bancroft's characterization of North Car
olinians  75
Freeman, Thomas. Surveyed Meigs & Freeman line  52
Notes of survey lost  52
French Licks. Henderson meets Donelson's party at  23
Facts about  123
French, (Rev.) M. Connected with Valle Crucis  430, 431
Frolics. Description of  268
Fruit. Facts about and literature on  518
Fry, Joshua. Boundary line commissioner  22
Furman, Robert M. Sketch of  554
Gage, Wm. Speaker of Franklin House  113
Gahagan Family. Early settlers of Madison  196
Gale, C. Boundary line commissioner  20
Gallaspie, Gun maker. Lived at head of French Broad  336
Gallows Field. Where Doubleday now is  147
Gambill Family. Lived on border of Ashe  198
Gambill, Robert, Sr. Commissioner to lay off lots  197
Game. Amount killed  252, 253
Some still left  520
Preserved on Biltmore estate  506
Games of Schools. Described  271, 422
Gardner, Mrs. Nancy. Sketch and recollections of  179, 180
Gardoquoi, Minister. Corresponded with Western leaders. .120, 121
Garland, Mary. Killed wild cat  333, 334
Garrett, Wm. Early settler of Madison  196

676 INDEX

PAGE
Gash Family. Descended from Revolutionary soldier  202
Gash, Leander. Defeated Rollins for Senate  449
Prominent and influential  202
Gash, Thomas L. Represented Transylvania  202
Gaston, J. P. Brought first news of surrender  621
Gems, Native. Facts about  564
Ginseng. Factores for working  170
Andre Michaux taught natives to prepare for market  523
Great abundance formerly  523
Dr. Gailen established industry  170
Col. Byrd's rhapsody over  523, 524
Large root of found by David Miller  523
Gentian. Another name for ginseng  523
Gentry, (Col.) Allen. Deeds of lost when residence burned. . . . 197
Gentry Family. Dr. Cox's sketch of  109
Gentry, Richard. Sketch of  109
Devised "Old Fields"  109
Pioneer preacher  224
Geology. See Chapter XXIV, Geology of North Carolina Moun
tains. Where to get official facts about  542, 543
Georgia. Contributed no settlers in 1730  13
Germans. Settlers of 1730  13
Gholey, John. Commissioner of Graham County  210
Ghormley Family. Sketch of  211
Glance, Jacob and John. Early settlers of Madison  196
Gold. Discovery of at Dahlonega, Ga  575
Gold Spring. Owned by John B. Love  192
"Golden City." Facts about  340
Graham County. Early history of  210 to 212
Graham, (Dr.) C. C. His testimony as to Lincoln's birth  317
Graham, (Hon.) James. Sketch of  644
Grains. Facts about cultivation of and literature  519
When it was too cold to raise corn  521
Grant, (Mrs.) E. N. Erected monument to her father, Prof.
Mitchell  299
Grant, Colonel. Conquered Cherokees in 1761  54
Grant, James A. Merchant in Murphy  186
Grant, Rachael. Had remarkable dream  338
Grants. Various facts as to grants from the State, 19, 27, 60,
61, 62, 63, 64, 108, 131 to 138
Granville, Earl of. Why grants from him are good  60, 61
Entries under preferred  133
Grasses. Facts about  519, 520
Gray, James K. Early settler of Macon  173
Graybeal Family. Sketch of  165
"Greasy Corner." Formerly a fine residence  149
Greasy Cove. Boundary line party reached  44, 45
Now railroad shops at Erwin, Tennessee  45
Great Britain. Action as to 31st parallel  26

INDEX 677

PAGE
Greene Family. Sketch of  101
Greene, John F. Commissioner  197
Greene, (Judge) L. L. Self-made man  189
Sketch of  400
Greenlee, James. Selected large boundaries of land  71
Greenville, S. C. In stage-coach days  242
Greenville, Tenn. Made capital of State of Franklin  113
In stage-coach days  242
Greer, Benjamin. Helped rescue Cleveland and kill Ferguson. . 102
Grier, David. Hermit, romance and sketch of  335
Gudger, A. M. and R. L. Lived on Sandy Mush  196
Gudger, (Col.) James and Wife. Lived in Madison  196
James a delegate to convention of 1835  196
Gudger, (Judge) J. C. L. Sketch of  397
Gudger, Capt.) James M., Sr. Boundary line commissioner. ... 57
Guinn, James W. Early settler of Macon  173
Gun Powder. Facts about bounty, etc  275
Guyot, (Prof.) Arnold. Measured mountains  49
Statement as to Mount Mitchell controversy  297 to 299
Gwyn, James. Story of  379
Gwyn, W. B. Built and operated railway  509
Hackney, George L. Combined Gazette and News  452
Hailen, Doctor. Established ginseng industry  170
Halford, David. Residence of  150
Hall, George. Veteran of Revolution  112
Hall, Wm. Killed Bryson across State line  50
Caused new legislation  306, 371
Hammermen. Facts about  279
Hampton, (Gen.) E. R. Edited newspaper  452
Hampton, (Gen.) Wade. Summer home in Cashier's Valley. . . . 498
Hancock, Wm. Early settler of Clay  207
Handy Men. Jacks of all trades  255
Hankins, J. C. Stage-coach contractor  242
Hanks, Nancy. Traditions of  308 to 320
Hardin, Jordan and John. Commissioners to lay off lots  200
Deed from Jonathan Boone  94
Hardin Farm. Formerly Tallassee Old Town  48, 50
Tradition as to grant of to Crusoe Jack  239
Hardy, (Dr.) J. F. E. Resided at Steam Saw Mill Place  18
Owned land in Asheville  148
First landscape gardener, sketch of  504
Harman Family. Sketch of  352, 353
Harris, (Hon.) C. J. Talc mine and factory  194
Harris, Will. Desperado who shot up Asheville  345
Harrison, Nathaniel. Boundary line commissioner  19
Harshaw, Abraham and John. Sketches of  187
Harshaw, Joshua. Early settler in Clay  207
Hartley, John. Born on the "Cold Saturday"  295

678 INDEX

PAGE
Hatch, (Col.) Lewis M. Sketch of  622
Hatchets. Stone ones found in mountains  10
Hauling. Facts about  279,284, 288
Hawkins, (Col.) Benjamin. Ran treaty line  52
Hawkins, James. Chain bearer  39
Hawkins, Robert. Early settler of Madison  196
Hayes, George W. Sketch of  205
Hayesville. Early history of  205 to 208
Hayne, (Hon.) R. Y. Died in Asheville  469
Haywood County. In Revolutionary War  Ill, 167
Early history of  166 to 173
Outrages on Cataloochee during Civil War  616, 617
Her six daughters  169
Other facts of formation of county  169, 170
Surrender of Col. Bartlett; last gun fired  581
"Hells." Described  533
"Hell's Half Acre." Described  540
Henderson, (Dr.) Archibald. His story of Western expansion . . 88
Henderson, Bayless. Murdered Jarrett, trial and execution, 301, 302
Henderson County. Early history of  181 to 185
Henderson County Heroes. Account of some  101
Henderson, (Col.) Richard. A boundary line commissioner, 22, 23
Met Donelson's party  23
Purchased Transylvania County  85
Employed Boone to explore western country  86
Other facts about his career  87 to 94
Hendersonville. Early history of  181 to 185
Henesea, David and John. Sketches of  187
Henry, (Judge) J. L. Sketch of  403
Henry, Robert. Boundary line surveyor  38
Wrote account of Cowan's Ford and Kings Mountain  98
Visited Greasy Cove  44
Diary of quoted  296
Sketch of  380, 381
First schoolmaster of Buncombe  421
Henry, (Gen.) R. M. Sketch of  392
Henry, Samuel. Sketch of  186
Herald of Truth. Editor of, etc  193
Herbert, Elijah. Sketch of  205
Herbs and Roots. Facts about  289
Herndon, (Col.) Ben. Captured and hanged Riddle  105
Herndon, Wm. H. Quoted as to Nancy Hanks, etc  310 to 320
Hiawassee Old Town. Named in Treaty of 1819  48
Hickory Nut Gap. Inn at  243
Hicks, John O. Sketch of  208, 436
Higgins, Holland. Killed by Greer  335
Highlands. Early history of  499
High Rocks. Described  536
Hill, Abies. Sheriff of Cherokee  187

INDEX 679

PAGE
Hilliard, Alfred. Long-distance quarrel  347
Hilliard, (Dr.) W. L. Bought Alexander residence  150
Fought duel  369 to 371
Hitchcock, (Dr.) C. M. Facts about  337
Hitchcock, (Mrs.) Caroline H. Her book quoted from  311 to 313
Hix Family. Sketch of  354, 355
Hix, Samuel. A Tory  99
Stories about  351 to 354
Hobgood, Theodore. Conducted newspaper  451
Hodges, Gilbert and Holland. Sketches of  100
Hodges, Thomas. Sketch of  100
Hollanders. Settlers of 1730  13
Holman's Ford. Boone's home at  80, 81
Hollow Poplar. Boundary line party reached  44
Hoffman, L. M. Quoted  321
Hog Killing. Facts about  287, 288
Holsclaw, John. Eloped with Delilah Baird  300, 331, 332
Holy Cross, Order of. Account of  430
Honey Dew. Scientific facts about  526, 527
Hoodenpile, Phillip. Asked pay in prayer  221
Road built by him  234
Left-handed fiddler  128
Sketch of  234
Hooper, G. W. Commissioner of Graham  210
Horner, (Bishop) Junius M. Reestablished Valle Crucis  433
Horse Trading. Sketch of  267
Horton, John. Built court house  188
Horton, Nathan. Guarded Major Andre  101
Hotels. Arsenic-Bromine  501
Asheville Sulphur Springs  502
Alexander's Hotel  153
Aquone Inn  243
Arden or Shufordsville  242
Balsam Inn  504
Battery Park Hotel  508
Belmont Hotel  503
Berkeley Hotel  508
Blowing Rock Hotels  500
Bromine-Arsenic  501
Brittain's Flat Rock Hotel  493
Bryan Hotel  189»
Buck Forest Hotel  185.
Buck Hotel  491.
Carrier's Springs Hotel  503
Chimney Rock Inn  185
Cloudland Hotel on the Roan  503
Coffey Hotel  189
Cold Spring Hotel  536
Coggins' Springs  510

680 INDEX

PAGE
Hotels. Cut-Laurel Gap  39
Davis's, Col. John's  242, 364
Deaver's Springs  503
Drummer's Home  186, 509
Dula Springs  499
Eagle Hotel  491
Eagle's Next  603
Epps Springs  507
Esmeralda Inn  185, 538
Farmer Hotel  494
Fletcher Hotel  185
Flat Rock Hotels  493
Franklin Hotel  506
Garmany's Hotel  242
Grand Central Hotel  508
Grove Park Inn  510
Halleck Hotel  499
Henesea Hotel  187
Hickory Nut Falls Inn  538
Hickory Nut Gap Inn  243
Highlands Hotels  499
Hot Springs Hotel  491, 539
Jefferson Inn  162
Kenilworth Inn  507
Langren Hotel  507
Linville City Inn  500
Logan's Hotel  538
Manor House, The  508
Marshall Hotels  242
Margo Terrace Hotel  508
Montgomery's  242
Mountain Park Hotel  492, 539
Mundays Tavern  243
Oakland Heights  507
Old Valley Town Inn  507
Osceola Lake Hotel  185
Pinola Inn  483
Regal, The  186
Road Houses  286
Roan Mountain Inn  503
Roaring Gap Inn  501
Sapphire Country Hotels  506
Sherrill's Inn  243
Swannanoa Hotel  508
Toxaway Inn  506
Turnpike Inn  243, 256
Valle Crucis Inn  433
Valley Town Tavern  243, 507
Warm Springs Hotels  47, 243, 492, 539

INDEX 681

PAGE
Hotels. Walker's, Mrs  243, 507
Waynesville White Sulphur Springs  507
White House, The  286
Howard, Benjamin. — A Tory settler  100
Built cabin for herders  82
Took oath of allegiance  354
Howard, Sarah. Married Jordan CounciU, Sr  100
Howard's Knob. Peculiarities of  529
Howland, Richard S. Made great improvements  510
Howell, John. Commissioners met at home of  168
Hubbard, Xenas. Early resident of Murphy  186
Huguenots, French. Settlers of 1730  13
Hume, R. L. Built hotel and mill  202, 203
Hunter, A. R. S. First settler of Murphy  337
Entertained removal officers  337
Daughter of married Dr. Hitchcock  337
Hunters. Unknown, entered wilderness  11
Wallen hunted in 1761  12
Fire Hunters by day and by night  252, 522
Were unerring marksmen  255
Weiss hunted with Moravians  62
Account of the first hunters  65
Famous hunters in old days  521, 522
Hunting Grounds. French Broad and Swannanoa Valleys were
neutral  10
Hyatt, Seth. Sketch of  186
Hyatt, Ute. Noted for integrity  187
Hyde, J. S. Sheriff of Graham  210
Hyman-Hilliard Duel. Account of  369 to 371
Hyman, J. D. Edited newspaper  449
Fought duel  369 to 371
Hurricanes. Described  540
Indentured Servants. Did not come to mountains  14
Indian Boundary Lines. Importance of  51
Tryon's, Meigs and Freeman's, Hawkins, Pickens, etc . . 51 to 54
Decisions as to Indian Reservation of 1783  139, 140
Decision as to Meigs and Freeman's line  139
Indian Massacres. Description of the first  250
Sevier allows massacre of Old Tassal, etc  117, 118
Indian Mounds. — Numbers found in various localities  10
One near Hayesville and one at mouth of Peachtree  207
The "Great Nacoochee Mound"  517
Cherokees admit building some  567
For what purposes built  597
Indian Names. Agiqua, name of whole French Broad  10
Erati, name of over-mountain Cherokees  10
Otari, name of Valley Town Indians  10
Swannanoa, corruption of Shawnee  11, 598

682 INDEX

PAGE
Indian Names. Tahkeeosteh, name of French Broad from Ashe
ville down  10
Zillicoah, name of French Broad above Asheville  10
Nantahala, means Valley of Noon Day Sun  598
Indian Pipes. Found in numerous places  10
Indian Pottery. Found in various places  10
Indian Reservation. Defined; not supported by treaty  55
Indian Traders. Unknown traders pushed through wilderness 11
Disregarded Tryon's boundary line and were killed  51
Indian Trails. Two crossed at Asheville  18
Name of one through Swannanoa Gap  11
Indian Treaties. See "Treaties with Indians," in this Index.
Indian Tribes. Ani-Suwali, lived east of mountains  11
Catawbas ruled east of Blue Ridge  10
Catawbas were enemies of Cherokees  10
Reservation of the Tribes thrown into South Carolina. ... 25
Catawbas attacked by Cherokees in 1759  ,  69
Catawbas remained faithful to the whites  69
Cherokees ruled west of Blue Ridge  10
Cherokees sided with French; made treaty, etc  54
Cherokees crushed by combined forces in 1760  69
Cherokees were peaceful in Haywood before Revolution... Ill
Party of stole horses and killed Fine  Ill
Entries and grants of Indian lands, void  133, 136
Decisions as to lands of  139
Act to release purchasers of lands of  141
Chickamaugas renegades of many tribes  10, 66
Chickamaugas lived near Chattanooga and occupied Nick-a-
Jack's Cave  66
Indian Wars. French and Indian, Facts about  67
With Watauga settlements  68
With forces from Virginia and the Carolinas  568, 569, 570
Indian Weapons. How made  597
Insects. Col. Byrd relates facts about  252
Instruments. Of Virginia commissioners questioned, etc  19, 20
Irby and Dellinger. Built Mitchell court house and filed lien. . 201
Irish Presbyterians. Settlers of 1730  13
Ives, (Bishop) Levi S. Account of his Holy Order at Valle
Crucis  430 to 432
Irvin, Gov. Jared. Sent resolutions to Gov. Alexander  34
Asked for new boundary line commission and survey  36
Israel, Ernest. Owns picture of old Asheville  146
Ivy and Laurel. Met by Strother and Spangenberg  40, 41
"Ivory Slicks." At Hangover Mountain, described  41
Jacks, (Rev.) Richard. Pioneer preacher  224
Jackson, Andrew. From mountain pioneer stock  13
Crossed mountains in 1788  233
Lost horse race  .329, 330
Jackson-Avery Duel. Accounts of  357 to 359

INDEX 683

PAGE
Jackson County. Early history of  192 to 194
Railroad and improvements  194
Jackson, John. Allowed himself to be sold, etc  332
Jarrett, Drake. Owned place in Asheville  147
Jarrett, (Col.) N. S. In ginseng business  170
Typical citizen  173
Early settler of Franklin  174
Sketch of  176
Murdered by Henderson  301, 302
House and child burned  302
Jay, (Minister) John. Disregarded instructions  26
Jefferson, Town of. Early history of  161 to 163
Jefferson, Peter. Boundary line commissioner  22
Jeffries' "Hell." Described  533
Jenkins, J. D. Quoted as to Nancy Hanks tradition  324, 325
Jenkins Family. Sketch of  325
Jewel Hill. Contest about court house  195
Johnson, (Rev.) Aaron. Pioneer preacher  224
Johnson, (President) Andrew. Daughter of married  242
Place of death of  325
Connected with the Lincoln family  326
Johnson, Governor. Conduct as to location of State line  23, 24
Never dreampt of New River  22
Johnson, (Mr. and Mrs.) Harvey. Owned much of Henderson
ville  184
Johnson, John H. Sketch of  205
Home and hospitality of  341
Johnston, Jackson. Sketch of  177
Johnston, James. Cared for John Lyon  343
Johnston, (Hon.) Thomas D. Sketch of  648
Johnston, Wm. Built palatial home in Transylvania  203
Johnston, Wm. Sketch of  172
Jones, (Hon.) A. H. Contractor; sketch of, etc  242
Jones, (Dr.) Edward R. Trial and death of  379, 380
Jones, (Rev.) Evan. Translated New Testament into Cherokee 399
Jones, (Hon.) George A. Sketch of  645
Jones, J. C. Sheriff of Alleghany  197
Jonesboro, Tenn. Largely Presbyterian  215
Franklin convention held at  113
Jordan, Joseph P. Helped form Transylvania  202
"Judge" Fax. Bought his freedom  239
Judiciary, "The Exhaustion of"  640, 641
Junaluska. Sketch of, etc  292, 293
Justice, Amos. Entertained boundary line party  35
Keener, (Rev.) Ulrich. Preached to Cherokees  574
Keener, Joseph. Valuable citizen  192
Kelly, John. Sketch of  176
Kelly, M. H. Built gravity line  510

684 INDEX

PAGE
Keith, (Lt. Col.) Forced to resign because of cruelty  603
Kelsey, S. T. "Road Builder"  246
Founded Highlands  499
Kerr, James. Boundary line commissioner.
Kerr, (Col. ) J. P. Wrote of newspapers  450
Killian, Daniel. Quarterly meeting held at home of  218
Visited by Asbury  219 to 222
Gavel from banister of his home  223
Killian, D. W. Prominent citizen of Clay  208
Kilpatrick, Colonel. Surveyed the Pickens line  53
Kincaid, E. P. Lived near Murphy  187
King, (Rev.) Benjamin. Owned Lowndes Farm  203
King, Johnson. Sketch of  186
King, J. W. Swore in officers  210
King, (Judge) Mitchell. Donated land for Hendersonville  493
Home at Flat Rock  493
College chum of Bismarck  496
Kings Mountain. Sevier's route to  110, 111
Kirby, Colonel. Driven back from raid on Asheville  619
Kirk, (Col.) G. W. Daring raid on Camp Vance  605 to 608
Sketch of in Note 19  627
Kirk's War. Facts about  640, 641
Kirkland, Bushwhacker and Turkey Trot. Accused of outrages
during war  618
Kitchins. Facts about  257
Knotts, D. J. Published Calhoun-Hanks-Lincoln tradition .... 318
Kukluxing. Fight grew out of prosecution for  450
Lake Ushery. Was it on French Broad?  528
Lake Superior. Mocha Stone or moss agate from  10
Lambert, Andrew, alias John Perkins. A Scotchman who
hunted for the Moravians  65
Land. Facts about  254
Status of Cherokees  587
Land Speculation. Rush for land, large grants  135, 136, 137
Some of largest land holders  138, 140, 141
Land Warrants. To soldiers of French and Indian War  67
Landreth, Stephen. Officer of grand jury  197
Lapland. Former name of Marshall  194
Lashorns. Described in Note 18, page  58
Lawrence, (Rev. Dr.) Thomas. Started schools in mountains 439
Lawson, John. Boundary line commissioner  19
Leather Breeches. One virtue in  251
Leatherwood, John. Sketch of  170
Leatherwood, Samuel. Mentioned  170
Lee, (Col.) Stephen. Sketch of  425
Legislation. Some early  630, 632
Lenoir, Thomas Isaac. Sketch of  171
Lenoir, (Gen.) Wm. Told of sword tilt  109

INDEX 685

PAGE
Lester, Dr. T. C. Kept first drug store in Asheville  147
Lewis, Gideon. Guide to Boundary line commissioners  41
Famous as wolf hunter  522, 523
Lexington, Va. Largely Presbyterian  215
Librarian of Congress. Quoted as to De Soto  12
Libraries. Rural School  435
Pack Memorial  508
Donated by Prof. Wing  445
Literary Fund. Account of  420
Limestone Settlement. Visited by Vance and Neely  43
Lincoln, Abraham. Traditions as to birth  308 to 320
Lincoln, Isaac. Lived in Tennessee and owned slaves. . . .322 to 326
Lincoln, Mary. Wife of Isaac, and owned slaves  322 to 326
Lincoln, Thomas. Facts about  322 to 326
Linney, (Hon.) R. Z. Sketch of  647
Linville City. Early history of  500
Litigation. See also Chapter XVI.
Over John Strother's will  138
Over Indian Reservation line  139
Over Meigs & Freeman's line  139
Over Cranberry Iron mine  141, 557, 558
Tennessee boundary line  56, 57
Two noted law suits in Alleghany  199
Over laying off town lots in Sparta  197
Builder's lien on Mitchell court house  201
Over Buck Forest  204
Over Junaluska's farm  293
Little Carpenter. Agreed to Henderson purchase  87
Little, Will. Boundary line commisioner  20
Littleton, Governor. Defeated Cherokees in 1760  54
Locke, (Judge) Francis. Stories of  375
Locust Old Field Church. Established by  224
Logan, (Judge) G. W. Sketch of  404
Logan, Robert. Chain bearer  39
Long, (Rev.) J. R. Built school  193
Long Hungry Branch. Name derived from  212
Lost Cove. Railroad on viaduct in passing through  9
Where NoUechucky breaks through mountains  44
In disputed territory  57
Moonshiners' heaven  334
Lottery. For Newton Academy  386
For Dahlonega gold lands  ¦  575
Loudon, Fort. See "Fort Loudon."
Love, Dillard. Early resident of Franklin  174
Love, John B. Sketch of  192
Owned Gold Spring  192
Love, (Captain) Robert. Sketch of  174
Love, (Col.) James Robert. Sketch of  171
Love, (Dr.) Levi. Sketch of  177

686 INDEX

PAGE
Love, ( Col. ) Robert. Boundary line surveyor  31
Piloted boundary line party  45
Boundary line commissioner  48
Military career disclosed by pension papers  108
Veteran of Revolution  112
Thirty years presidential elector  126
Founder of Waynesville  127
Defeated Felix Walker for clerk  127
Named Waynesville  127, 169
Service in Watauga Settlements  118 to 120
Sketch of  124 to 126
Won horse race  329, 330
Love, (Dr.) Samuel L. Sketch of  171
Mount Love named for  299
Love (Gen.) Thomas. Boundary line commissioner  29
His famous race with Hoodenpile  128
Sketch of  128, 129
Longest continuous term in legislature  129
Elected speaker of Tennessee senate  129
Saved lives of two of Sevier's sons  128
Loven Family. Came from Ducktown  212
Lovick, J. Boundary line commissioner  20
Lovill, (Col.) Edward F. Sketch of  623
Low, L. D. Quoted as to No Man^s Land  41, 42
Low, T. A. Quoted  10
Lowery, Woodbury. Quoted as to C. C. Jones' statement  12
Lowndes Farm. Facts about  203
Lowrie, (Col.) James M. Sketch of  196
Ludwell, Phillip. Boundary line commissioner  19
Lunsford, Micajah. Col. Jarrett murdered near home of  301
Lusk Family. Sketch of  196
Lusk, (Col.) Virgil S. Fought Shotwell  450
Lyle, (Dr.) James M. Sketch of  175
Lyon, Archibald O. Sketch of  206
Lyon, Captain. His raid into Graham county  618, 619
Lyon, John. Pathetic story of  343
Macon County. Early history of  173 to 175
MacRae, Donald. Helped develop Linville City, etc  246
Madison County. Early history of  194 to 196
Madison, (Prof.) R. L. Established and conducted school  438
Malone, John & Co. R. R. contractors, sketch of  474
Malone, (Major) W. H. Edited the Expositor  451
Marshall, Town of. Early history of  194, 195
Martin, (Mrs.) Hetty. Helped colored people  444, 445
Martin, (Col.) J. G. Promoted many improvements 
Part owner of The Citizen  451
Built and operated street railway  509
Martin, (Gen.) J. G. Sketch of  621, 622

INDEX 687

PAGE
Martin, (Gen.) J. G. War experiences in Asheville, etc. . .619 to 639
"War Governor's Right Hand"  637, 638
Martin, Robert. Sketch of  205
Mason, David. Hanging of  376
Masons, Free. Saved Clem Osborne from death  617
Mast Family. Sketch of  190, 352
Mast, (Mrs.) Finley. Wove rugs for President  260
Mast, Wm. and wife. Poisoning of  347
Mathews, J. Chain bearer  39
Mathews, Mussendine. Boundary line commissioner  39
Tory or cynic?  39
Maule, (Col.) Wm. Boundary line commissioner  19
May, 1775. "Free-lances, fast ripening for"  19
May, Mark. Sketch of  175, 176
Maynard Brothers. Early settlers of Glade Creek  197
Mayo, Mr. Charged with grafting  20
McAnally, (Rev.) David R. Home in Asheville  147
Founded first newspaper in Asheville  449
Sketch of  449
McCay, (Judge) Spence. Stories of cruelty about  374, 375
McCloud, (Captain) C. M. Sketch of  395
McClure, George and Wm. H. Sketches of  207
McConnell, (Rev.) Fred. C. Distinguished preacher  208
McConnell, Wm. First register c^eds of Clay  205
McCormick, Cyrus T. Of mountain pioneer stock  15
McDowell, Charles. Once owned Old Fields  108, 109
McDowell, (Gen.) Charles. Went to Watauga Settlements .... 110
Entered land at Cherry Fields  204
Owned Old Fields  108
McDowell Family. Sketch of  70, 71
McDowell, "Hunting John." Sketch of  70, 71
McDowell, (Gen.) Joseph. Boundary line commissioner  39
McDowell, Silas. Early settler of Macon  174
Posthumous account of duel  359 to 368
Sketch of  427
McDunn, Isaac. Home of, in Asheville  150
McFalls, "Neddy." Stories of  335, 336
McGaha, Samuel. Killed Indian by mistake  336
McGhee, James and James L. Mentioned  170
McGhee, Jordan. Killed snakes  100
McGuire, (Captain) George. Suspected of treachery  625
McKendree, Rev. Mr. Preached at Killian's  218
McKinney's-on-Toxaway. Boundary line commissioners delib
erate at  29. 30
McKune, Frank. Built palatial home  203
McMillan, F. J. Appointed clerk  159
Commissioner of Ashe County to lay off lots  197
McMinn, Nathan. Built store and hotel  202
McNair's Grave. Victim of Removal cruelties  599

INDEX

PAGE
McNamee, Charles. Declared trust held by him  444
McQueen, Samuel. Helped rescue Cleveland  105
Meabin, James. Organized corps of surveyors  174
Meadows, The. Large springs there  529
Mears, James B. Residence and store of  147
Mebane, James. Boundary line commissioner  48
Memminger, (Hon.) C. G. Home at Flat Rock  493
Mecklenburg Declaration. First for American Independence ... 14
Bancroft quoted on the "Resolves."  96
Medicines. Facts about  257
Meigs & Freeman's Line. Account of  51 to 53
Meigs, J. Scientist for State-line survey  34
Meigs Post. Location of  49, 52
Meigs, Return Jonathan. Sketch of  51 to 54
Merchants and Miners Bank. A. T. Davidson elected president, 401
Merrimon, (Judge) J. H. Expressed his opinion of board of
directors  463
Merrimon, (Hon.) Augustus S. Held court in Bakersville  201
Dr. Baird's tribute to  384
Messer, Christian and John. Veterans of Revolution  112
Meteor of 1860. Described by Gen. Clingman  306
Metheglen. Facts about  271
Methodists. Early appearance of  14
Got ahead of Presbyterians  215
Sent Ulrich Keener to preach to Cherokees  574
Mexico. Expansion of U. S. at expense of predicted  26
Michaux, Andre. Visited summit of Grandfather mountain  513
Sang Marseillaise there  513
Sent flower seeds and shrubs to Paris  513
Taught settlers how to prepare for market  523
Michaux, F. A. Sketch of  513
Middleton, Henry. Boundary line commissioner  29
Milesian Irish. Settlers of 1730  13
Military Roads. Built by Gen. Scott's orders  238
Milk Sick. Rhinehart died of  49
Facts and fancies about  523, 524
Nancy Hanks died of, Note 11, page  527
Price died of  336
Miller, David. Facts about  528, 529
Miller, Thomas. Had iron forge built  559
Mills, "Father." Asbury preached at home of  222
Mills, grist. Facts about  281, 282
Mineralogy. See Chapter XXIV. Where to get facts about  542
Minerals, facts about  543
Mines and Mining. See Chapters XXIV, XXV.
Evidences of early mining  12
Talc, copper and nickel in Jackson  194
Dates of working old Iron mines  276, 277
Pioneer Thors and forges  277 to 279

INDEX 689

PAGE
Mines and Mining. De Soto heard of mines in Chisca  518
Swift & Munday mine tradition  529
Prehistoric workings. Facts about  552
The "Specimen" State. Facts about  553
Ancient Diggings. Facts about  553
Sink Hole mines. Facts about  553
Garrett-Ray mines. Facts about  553
Old mining in Clay. Facts about  554
Mica Mines in Ashe. Facts about  553, 555
Mica Mines elsewhere. Facts about  555
Uses for mica. Facts about  555
Corundum and Emery. Facts about  555
Kaolin. Facts about  562
Cranberry mines. Litigation over  415 to 418
Other facts about  547, 557, 558
Other iron mines  547, 648, 559
Copper mines. Facts about  548, 560, 561
Corundum mines. Facts about  549 to 557
Talc mines. Litigation over  418
Other facts about  562
Marble quarries. Facts about  563, 564
Other minerals. Facts about  561 to 565
Adams- Westfelt Copper mine. Litigation  413, 414
Davidson River Iron Works. Built by  559
Lane's Iron Works  249
Miro, Minister. Western leaders corresponded with  120, 121
Mission Farm. Facts about  207
Posey's connection with  224
Established by Baptists  574
Mitchell, Anderson. Presiding justice  197
Mitchell County. Early history of  200 to 202
Mitchell, (Prof.) Elisha. Highest peak named for  178
Monument to memory of  -.  299
Measured high peaks, controversy, etc  298, 299
Mitchell, Mount. Controversy over first measurement of. . .297, 299
Mitchell's Peak. See Mount Mitchell.
Mitchell, Wm. L. Justice and foreman of jury  197
Mocha Stone. Found near Banner Elk  10
Molyneaux, Consul. Built at Flat Rock  496
Molyneaux Home. At Flat Rock  493
Moody, John and Reuben. Good citizens  170
Moody, James. Quoted as to Cherokees, See Chapter XXVI.
Moody, (Hon.) James M. Sketch of  649
Moody, Wm. Early settler of Madison  196
Moonshine and Moonshiners. At Limestone Cove in 1799  43
Miss Morley's defense of  16
Facts about  257, 271, 273
Monteith, Wm. Sketch of  ¦.  209
Montgomery's Line. Facts about  31
W. N. C.^4

690 INDEX

PAGE
Monuments. None at Fort Loudon  70
On site of Boone's cabin  83
Boone Trail markers  94
None to Richard Henderson  94
On Sevier's trail  124
To Otway Burns  179
To Junaluska  '.  211
War Monument at EUzabethton  275
To Elisha Mitchell  299
To Governor Vance  508
Pack Memorial Library  508
To soldiers of Confederacy  653
To General Clingman  653
Lines to Vance's, Asheville  657
Moore, Andrew. Early resident of Cherokee  187
Moore, Charles. Had iron forge built  559
Col. Davidson's recollections of  99
Moore, Daniel K. Sketch of  207
Moore, (Judge) Fred. Sketch of  399
Moore, John. Boundary line commissioner  34
Moore, John C. County Commissioner, sketch of, etc  205, 206
Moore, W. Opened first hotel  202
Moore, (Capt.) Wm. Sketch of  99
Moore, (Capt.) Wm. P. Sketch of. "Every Inch a Soldier"  206
Moravians. Described  61
Laws for relief of  632
Moretz Family. Sketch of  191
Morganton. Largely Presbyterian  215
Morley, Miss W. W. Quotations from her Carolina Mountains, 14, 16, 17
Morris, Gideon. Married Yonaguska's daughter to Welch  187
Morris, Robert. Had interests in North Carolina, etc  145
Town named for him  145
Morrison, Mrs. Rose. Residence of  148, 149
Morrison, (Rev.) Wm. Facts about  150
Morristown. First name of Buncombe court house  145
Moseley, Edward. Boundary line commissioner  19, 20
Moss Agate. See "Mocha Stone."
Moss, Henry. Man of integrity  187
Mount, G. R. Sketch of  186
Mountains. General facts about  9
Mountain Meadows. See "Balds."
Mountain Island. Evidences of prehistoric lake near  528
Mount Mitchell. Controversy over measurement of  297, 299
Mud Creek Falls. In Georgia or North Carolina  37
Mulatto Mountain. Why so named  164
Mulberry Fields. Owen lived near and Bryant owned  65
Mulberry Trees. Seen by De Soto  12
Munday, (Capt.) A. P. Sketch of  176

INDEX 691

PAGE
Munday, (Capt.) A. P. Hunted bears on mountains  531
Munday, Stephen. Sketch of  176
Murphy, Town of. Early history of  185, 186
Murphy, Wm. Wandering musician  349, 350
Musters. Facts about  270, 284, 346
Nails. Made by hand  71
Natural Bridge. Described  535
Nanakatahke. Facts about  572
Nansemond. Governors met at  21
Nantahala. Mentioned in treaty  48, 56
Nashville. Site of visited in 1767  12
Formerly the Cumberland settlement and French Lick. . . . 123
Neal, O. F. and Benjamin. Story of  330
Neely, (Maj.) James. Commissary of Boundary line party  39
Brought in a "recruit of bacon"  46
Negro Mountain. Falling of cliff of  293
Why so named  164
Neilson. Visited by Asbury  216, 219, 220
Nelson, David. Sketch of  169
New Echota. Location and adoption of as capital  573
New River. Its discovery a surprise. Hence name  22
Newland. History of  213
Newspapers. See Chapter XVIII.
Newton Academy. Facts about  423, 424
Newton, (Rev.) George. Heard Asbury preach  217
Almost a Methodist  222
Sketch of  423, 424
Nick-a-Jack's Cave. Description of  '  66
Nick-a-Jack Old Town. Its distance from State line post  51
Nicodemus, (Private) Wm. Grave of  336
Norris Family. Sketch of  100
Norton, Barak. Sketch of  498
Norton, Mrs. Killed bear  341
Norton Family. Sketch of  499
Norton, J. E. Sketch of  451
Norton, Misses. Own Urqhart house  493
Norwood, (Judge) Wm. L. Sketch of  397
Oconostota. Signed treaty  86> 87
Officers. Few given to the West  642, 643
Oil and Gas. Facts about  563
Old Fields. Facts about  62, 63, 101, 103, 108, 109
Old Fields of Toe. History and legends of  2i3
Olds, (Col.) Fred A. Account of duel  358
O'Neal and Sherman. Frozen in Unakas  209
Order of the Holy Cross. Account of  430
Organdizer. A Cherokee living in Graham  2i2
Orphan Strip. Walton War over  33

692 INDEX

PAGE
Orr, David. His cabin  41
Sketch of  211
Orr, (Hon.) James L. Knew of Calhoun-Hanks-Lincoln-tradition 318
Osborne, Jonathan. Made Captain of Home Guard  626
Owen, Hunter. On head of Yadkin  65
Pack, G. W. Gave library and other gifts  434, 508
Paddy Mountain. No reason why so named  164
Paint Rock. Described  539
"Painted Rocks." Boundary line party reached  46
No animal pictures there now, if ever  47
Palisades. Old river bed cross channel at  528
Palmer, (Col.) J. B. Commissioner to settle dispute  200
Mr. Skyles died at home of  432
Kirk's men burned his home  608
Parker & Carter. Opened store in wilderness  67
Parks, (Mrs.) Cynthia. A Civil War Joan of Arc  616
Parks, James H. Donated land  197
Commissioner to lay off lots  197
Pass, Richards. Early settler of Clay  207
Patrician Settlements. Described  495
Patterson, John. Elected first sheriff of Clay  205
Patterson, Lindsay. Facts about him and his farm  502
Patterson, (Mrs.) Lindsay. Chairman of Boone Trail committee 94
Patton Family. Large and influential  204
Patton, (Miss) Fanny L. Published Woman's Edition  146
Patton, George. Early settler in Macon  173
Patton, James. Owned Eagle hotel  149
Referred to by Asbury  221
Patton, James W. Owned part of Asheville, etc  147, 149
Had iron forge built  559
Patton, (Col.) John. Boundary line commissioner  29
Was county surveyor of Buncombe  77
Was father of Lorenzo and Montraville  77
Patton, John E. Owned Warm Springs  492
Patton, (Dr.) John W. Sketch of  186
Patton, Montraville. Owned land in Asheville  148
Helped form Henderson County  181
Patton, N. M. First representative of Transylvania  202
Patton, (Captain) Thomas W. Owned Citizen  451
Sketch of  454
Paxton Family. Lived at Cherryfield  203
Peace. Efforts to restore  639
Pearl Oysters. Found by De Soto's party  12
Pearson, Isaac A. Built courthouse  202
Pearson, (Hon.) Richmond. Forced completion of railroad ... . 480
Got no-fence law passed  641
Pease, (Rev.) L. M. Started Five Points Mission  439
Conveyed property to Home Mission  439

INDEX 693

PAGE
Pease, (Rev.) L. M. Started colored Industrial School  443
Peavines, Wild. Mentioned by Spangenberg  63
Facts about  521
Peggy's Hole. Account of  334
Peltries. Facts about  253, 254, 255, 264, 265
Penland, Harvey. Commissioner of Clay  205
Penland, Robert A. Conveyed land for county seat  201
Penland, Wm. Early settler of Madison  196
Pennell, Joshua. Freed slaves  349
Penniman, W. T. Helped build street railway  509
Pensions. To officers and soldiers  134, 135
Perkins Family. Sketch of  102, 106, 107
Perkins, John. Facts about  65
Perkins, Timothy and Joseph. Facts about rescue of Cleveland, 102 to 106
Perrot, Jonathan. Another name for Weiss  62
Perry, John K. Explained "Split Bullet"  86
Perry, Simeon. Boundary line commissioner  48
Person, J. A. Commissioner to lay off lots  200
Pewter Platters. Facts about  257
Phillips, Arthur. Got share of Old Fields  109
Phillips, (Prof.) W. B. Superintended erection of monument. . 299
Phoenix Mountain. No reason known for name  164
Pickens, (Gen.) Andrew. Facts about surveying line  52, 53
Denied Cherokee title to Henderson purchase  85
Pickens, Israel. Sketch of  382, 644
Piercy, James W. C. Sketch of  187
Pigeons. Came in flocks, etc  524, 525
Pinchot, (Hon.) Gifford. First forester of Pisgah Forest  506
Pinckney, Minister. His "masterly diplomacy"  26
Pioneer Days. Description of  76, 77
Pioneers. Roosevelt's eulogies of  13, 14
Who they were and whence they came  65 to 67, 248
Allison and Bancroft eulogizes them  75
Dress habits, homes, etc  76, 77
Their spirit still persists  249
Their wanderlust  275
Pisgah Forest. Facts about  506
Formerly called Davidson's River  204
Plant Lice. Facts about  526, 527
Piatt, Henry and (Rev.) J. T. Facts about  207
Plemmons Family. Early settlers of Madison  196
"Pleasant Gardens." Home of "Hunting John" McDowell  71
Plott Dogs. Facts about  254
Pool, John P. Stage-coach contractor  242
Pools, The. Described  538
Population. Of mountain counties  658
Posey, (Rev.) Humphrey. Established Mission School  187
Sketch of  224

694 INDEX

PAGE
Posey, (Rev.) Humphrey. Quarrel with Brownlow  226
Mission work with Cherokees  574
Pottery. Facts about  257
Powers, Riley. A hero of the Merrimac  603
Presbyterians. Roosevelt's description of  13, 14
Why Methodists and Baptists got ahead of  215
Priber, Christian. Became influential among Cherokees  568
Price, Aaron. Gun named for  336
Price, James. Died of milk sick  336
Primogeniture. Reversal of  252
Prisoners, escaping Union. Aided through mountains  613, 614
Prisons and Jails. Laws as to violated  ,  631
Pritchard, (Judge) J. C. Appointed Judge, etc  400
Products. Principal staples  284
Prohibition. Adoption of amendment making it State-wide .... 641
Prophet, David. Commissioner to select county site  200
Prophet, James. Prominent in Yancey  180
Prout, (Rev.) Henry H. His connection with Valle Crucis  430
Prudden, (Miss) Emily C. Established Skyland Institute  433
Public Schools. Beginning of  420
Puritans. What early settlers were  13
Quakers. Early settlers had no kinship with  13
Met fiercer Indians in South than before  65, 66
Took charge of education of Cherokees  632
Quaker Meadows. Described, as visited by Spangenberg  62
Derivation of name and settlement of  70
Qually Boundary. Map by M. S. Temple in 1876  52
Qually Town. Facts about  52, 598
Quarry, R. S. Howard operated one  486
Quilting parties. Facts about  270
Rabun. See Rayburn, and Rayborne.
Rabun Gap. Railroad to Franklin passes through  484
Race-track Was one in West Asheville  509
Railroads. The great need of the mountains  489
First railroad project and death of Hayne  469
Crop failure started western railroad building  469
N. C. and Western name of first railroad chartered  469
Asheville Street Railway. Built by  509
Western North Carolina Railroad chartered  469
Legislative history of latter road  469 to 472
Change from original route  472
Contract for part of construction  472
Change of location on Blue Ridge  473
Engineers on mountain construction  473
Col. Wilson rejected bond proposition  473
Election of new officers  474
John Malone & Co. Sketch of  474

INDEX 695

PAGE
Railroads. Western Division abolished  474
Early litigation  (  474j 475
Western N. C. Railroad Co., No. 2, takes over property. . . .' 475
Organization of new corporation  473
W. J. Best & Co. buy railroad from State  476
Clyde, Logan & Buford get Best & Co.'s interest  477
Richmond & Danville got control of railroad  477
Richmond Terminal Company. Sketch of  477
State sells railroad to Clyde, Logan & Buford  477, 478
Completion of railroad to Asheville  478
Completion of railroad to various points  478, 479
The Andrews Geyser  478
Spartanburg & Asheville R. R. completed to Saluda  479
Buncombe County's subscription thereto  479
Pearson's bill forces completion to Asheville  480
South & Western Railroad completed to Huntdale  480
Southern Railway tries to stop latter road  480
Carolina, Clinchfield & Ohio  481
South and Western  481
Snowbird Valley Railroad  482
East Tennessee and Western N. C. Railroad  482
Linville River Railroad  482
Hendersonville & Brevard Railroad  483
Transylvania Railroad  483
Elkin & Alleghany Railroad  483
Pigeon River Railroad  484
Georgia and North Carolina Railroad  484
Appalachian Railroad  484
Tallulah Falls and Franklin Railroad  484
Damascus Railroad  485
Tennessee and North Carolina  485
Asheville & Craggy Mountain Railroad  485, 509
Asheville Loop Line Railroad  486
Asheville Rapid Transit Railroad  487
East Tennessee and North Carolina Railroad  488
Sunset Mountain Railroad Co  488
Hiwassee Valley Railroad  488
Other railroads  489, 490
Sunset Mountain Railway. When operated  50&
Virginia & Carolina  490
Blatherskite Railroad  490
Regulating passenger rates  641
Ramseur, Daniel F. Among first citizens of Murphy  186
Ransom, (Miss) Esther. Quoted  79
Rattlebugs. Met by boundary line party  40
Ravenel, Messrs. Helped build Linville country  246
Ravens. Facts about  522
Rawls, (Hon.) Charles T. Services as mayor of Asheville  510
Ray, (Col.) James M. His Lyceum articles quoted from  421

696 INDEX

PAGE
Ray and Anderson. Career and escape of  305
Ray, Mont. His flight and return for trial  335
Rayburn, Deputy Sheriff. Killed by White  335
Rayborne, Hodge. Sketch of  129
"A most noted man"  170
Had part in formation of Henderson County  181
Rayner, Kenneth. Gen. Clingman's second in duel  367
Reaping Hooks. Facts about  280
Reconstruction. Outrages of Holden's administration  640
"Red Banks of Chucky." Near Greasy Cove, a landmark  45
Redmond, Lewis. His career as an outlaw  304
Reeves Family. Lived on border of Ashe County  198
Reeves, Jackson and John. Early settlers of Jackson  196
Regiments in Civil War. Facts about  636
Register, The Asheville Saturday. Dr Baird's sketches in  146
Regulators' War. New matter concerning it and Henderson, 88, 91
Regulators were not cowed  97
Removal of Cherokees. Facts about treaties, etc  576
Why Eastern Band remained  577 to 580
Removal Forts. Names and location of  576, 577
^Revolutionary Soldiers. Among first to cross Blue Ridge.'. .... 98
Descendants of  101
Revolutionary War. Our part in  96, 97
Haywood County in  Ill, 112
Mountain heroes of  101
Beginning and progress of  630
Rhinehart, W. W. Died of milk-sick  49, 209
Rhodes, Jesse. Chain baarer  182
Rhodes, John. Hunted for Spangenberg  65
Rhodes, Standapher. Lived in Asheville  149
Riddle. Used in threshing grain  281
Riddle, (Capt.) Wm. Facts about capture of Cleveland, 101 to 106
"Rifle Guns." Facts about  280
Riot. Persons indicted for, etc  299, 300
Ripley, (Col.) Valentine. Stage-coach contractor, etc  244, 497
Rivers and Creeks. Boone Fork, erroneously stated to rise in
Linville Gap on page  8
Cheoah, once a part of Nantahala  529
Cumberland, found and named by Dr. Walker  11
French Broad. Fifth river to break through mountains .... 9
Origin of English name of  10, 11
No Indian towns in valley of  10
Indian names of several portions of  10
Fines Creek, origin of name of  197
Hiwassee, last river to break through mountains  9
New Indian territory covering valley of  48
Boundary line party reached  50, 51
Holston, Boundary line of 1749 stopped near  22
Bledsoe extended line from  23

INDEX 697

PAGE
Rivers and Creeks. Johns River named for John Perkins  65
Linville, rises east of Blue Ridge  8
Gorge of Linville River one of finest  536
Little Tennessee, seventh to break through mountains  9
Immense water power on  211
North Carolina and Tennessee line crosses  48
Crossed by boundary line party  50
Matrimony Creek, crossed by boundary line party  20
New. Blowing Rock springs flow into  8
Governor Johnston never dreamed of it  22
Nantahala. Once part of Cheoah  529
Meaning of name of  598
NoUechucky, crossed by boundary line party  44
Pigeon. First North Carolina and Tennessee boundary line
survey stopped at  47, 48
Pee Dee, latitude of taken in 1835  24, 25
Pacolet. De Soto may have reached head of in 1540  12
Peters Creek. Virginia boundary line stopped there  20
Paint Creek. Boundary line party got off track near  46
Roans Creek, Boone's trail followed  82
Santeetla, large spring on bank of Little  529
Savannah, to be boundary line of a third Carolina province, 23
Scott's Creek, early history of  194
St. Johns. Grant to Carolina started at mouth of  22
Swannanoa. No Indian towns in valley of  10, 598
Tallulah Creek. Indian relics at head of  211
Rivers, R. C. Editor Watauga Democrat  452
Roads. Rivers disputes right of way with  9
Salisbury, Charleston and Pee Dee Roads. First across
mountains  25
Thomas's road across Smoky Mountains  49
Crossed by Gen. Vance's troops in 1864  49
A wagon road at the 101st mile of Tennessee line  51
Buffalo trails the only roads in 1752  62, 229
Solomon Jones known as "Builder of"  184
Old military road to Robbinsville  2H
Yonahlossee turnpike. Built by whom and when  214, 246
Great road activity  241
When Buncombe turnpike was fine  288
How roads were laid off  274
How rocks were "blasted" in old days  230, 231
Watauga River road, when built, etc  352
Stages used to run over part of this  348
William Patton built trail to Mitchell's peak  297, 531
Road to Mitchell's peak started by R. S. Howland  531
Other trails and roads to that peak  531
Trail to Craggy mountains built by Dr. Amber  531
Crest of Blue Ridge highway  532
To Grandfather Mountain  532

698 INDEX

PAGE
Roads. To Roan Mountain  532
Road Houses. Facts about those of old days  286
Robbinsville. Early history of  210 to 212
Rocks. Noted ones described  534 to 536
Roberts, Joshua. Home of  149
Sketch of himself and family  391, 392
Roberts, Philetus W. Sketch of  392
Roberts; R. B. Edited newspaper  451
Robertson, James. Removed to Watauga River  69, 74
Settled French Licks on Cumberland  93
Planned and enforced government of that colony  93
Richard connection with his career  93
Had no part in defection of State of Franklin  115
"The greatest of pioneers" and notes  123
Founded Middle Tennessee and educated settlers in
elements of self-government  123
Robinson, F. E. Edited The Citizen  451
Robinson, (Hon.) James L. Sketch of  650
Rogers, (Dr.) C. T. Leading physician of Cherokee  186
Rogers, Hughey. Veteran of the Revolution  112
Rolen, John. Lawyer of Murphy  186
Rollins, Pinckney. Stage coach contractor  243
Rollins, (Major) W. W. Defeated for senate by belated returns 449
Appointed commissioner to settle with Swepson & Little
field  462
Attached railroad iron in Detroit  465, 466
Elected president W. N. C. R. R  467
Lost suit started in Florida to reimburse State  467
Roots and Herbs. See "Herbs and Roots."
Ropetwister, John A. Cherokee living in Graham  212
Rose, "Quil." Innocent moonshiner, convicted of feeding
"hawgs"  340
"Roughs" described  531
"Roundheads of the South." First settlers to declare for
American Independence  13, 14
Russeau, Adolphus. Had share in Old Fields  109
Rumbough, (Col.) J. H. Sketch of  242
Rush, (Dr.) G. N. Sketch of  175
Saddle Mountain Baptist Church. Built on water divide  9
Sailing, John. Carried prisoner through Tennessee  11, 12
Saint John-in-the-Wilderness. Facts about  494, 496
Saint John the Baptist. Building and removal of  432
Saint Matthew. Gospel by translation into Cherokee  574
Salali. A born mechanic  583
Sams Edmund. Sketch of  154
Sapphire Country. Facts about  506
Saturday, The Cold. Account of  295
Savanookoo. Signed treaty  87

INDEX 699
PAGE
Saw Mills. Facts about  514_ 515
Sawyer, Isaac B. Sketch of  152
Sawyer, John. Commissioner of Graham  210
Sawyer, John M. Awarded prize for corn  519
Sawyer, Wm. Faithful dog tells wife of his death  339
Sawyer, Zachariah. Disappearance of  331
Schools. See Chapter XVII.
Lack of great drawback  283
Hayesville High School. Facts about  208
Cherokee Indian Schools  589, 590
"School Butter." Penalty for "hollering"  271
Sectionalism. Seeds of  630
Rampant  634
Schoolmasters. Robert Henry first in Buncombe  421
Rev. Samuel Doak first in Tennessee  421
Scotch-Irish. Before the Revolution  75
Scotch Settlers. Including Celts, Highlanders, Irish, Saxons, etc. 13
Eulogized by historians  75
Scythes. Facts about  280
Secession. N. C. reluctant to leave Union  636
Sequoya. Invented syllabary, description of  574, 575
Career of Sequoya  575
Great Trees of California named for  575
Sevier, (Gov.) John.
Followed Robertson to Watauga  :  74
The Harry Percy of Pioneers  110
His route to Kings Mountain  110 to 123
Placed in command of brigade, and governor, etc  113
His clashes with Tipton  117
Permitted murder of friendly Cherokees  117
Arrested for treason  118
Sent prisoner to Morganton  119
Escaped secretly, not defiantly  120
His second act of treason  120
Pleaded his loyalty to friends as excuse  122
Sent to N. C. legislature  122
Member first U. S. congress  122
Elected first governor of Tennessee  122
Spring at Bakersville called for him  123
Camping places along route  123
Shad Law's Oak. Here called "a stately oak"  106
Shearer, Robert. Sketch of  100
Sheep. Dogs obstacle to raising of  524
Sherrill, Bedford. Stage coach contractor, etc  243
Kept in  243
Shipp, Bartlett. Residence of  183
Shipp's "Fraud Commission." See Chapter XIX.
Shirley, John. Helped rescue Cleveland  103
Shook, Vader. Visited by Asbury  222

700 INDEX

PAGE
Shotwell, Randolph A. Established newspaper  449
Attacked Lusk  450
Convicted and pardoned of Kukluxing  450
Shuford, George. Owned Hume place and mill  202
Shuford, (Hon.) George A. Furnished facts for Transylvania 202
Shuford, (Miss) Mary Ann. Married Rev. Ben King  203
Shull Family. Sketches of  191, 351, 352
"Silent Consideration," invented by Meigs  572
Siler Family. Sketch of  173
Siler, Wimer. First settler of Macon, sons of, etc  173
Silver, Frankie. Killed husband and was hanged  294
Sinking Spring Field. Described  529
Simmons, Joel. Settled on Blue Ridge  198
Simonton, (Judge) C. H Judge U. S. Circuit Court, etc  400
Six Nations. Relinquished title to lands  89, 90
Skyles, (Rev.) Wm. West. Career at Vale Crucis  431, 432
Slanders. Facts about  14, 15, 16, 249, 260, 261
Slaves and Slave Owners. Few in mountains  636
Smathers, (Col.) J. C. Sketch of  256
Smith, Alexander. Boundary line commissioner  48
Smith, Bacchus J. In ginseng business  170
Smith's Bridge. Account of  240
Smith, (Rev.) C. D. Wrote history of Macon county  174
Sketch of  227
Smith, (Rev.) David. Pioneer preacher  224
Smith, James. Explored Tennessee  12
Smith, James M. Many facts about  147, 148
Smith, Phillip. Jack of all trades  217
Smith, Samuel. Daring envoy to Cherokees, sketch of  173, 174
Smith, Wm. Bailey. Boundary line commissioner  22
Smithsonian Institution. Explained making of Indian arrow
heads, etc  597
"Smoking Mountain." Facts about  539
Smoky Mountain Roads. First built across  237
Sneed and Henry. "Judicial murder" of  147, 388
Snethin, (Rev.) N. Sermon by  218
Snow, "The Big." Account of  295
A modern big snow  296
Recent cold snaps  297
South Carolina Gazette. Contained Mecklenburg "Resolves" . . 97
Sondley, (Dr.) Foster A. Author of Asheville's Centenary, 10, 11, 146
Southern Gazette, Timothy's. Contained Burrington's proc
lamation  24
South Sea. Western limits of North Carolina in 1729  23
Spain. Ally of France  26
Tried to entangle settlers  120, 121
Spangenburg, (Bishop) A. G. First to cross Blue Ridge  61
Wrote of many matters in this section  62 to 65

INDEX 701
PAGE
Sparta. Early history of  197 to 199
Spear, James. Sold into slavery, "escaped" and was killed  349
Spirituous Liquors. Influence of on State boundaries  18
Obtained at Limestone in 1799  43
Gentlemen smell it thirty miles  73
A "fricassee of rum"  74
Spottswood, Governor. Agreement with Gov. Eden  21
Stages. See Chapter X.
Stamper, S. S. Commissioner to lay off lots  197
Standing Indian. Why so called  598
Stanley, Jane and Nancy. Killed bear  334
"" Stanwix, Fort. Treaty made at  89, 90
Stars, "Falling of." Facts about  293
State Boundary Lines. See Chapter II.
"State Ridge." Where Hill killed Bryson  50
Steam Saw Mill Place. Once considered for county seat  18
Steele, John. Boundary line commissioner in 1813  29
Boundary line commissioner in 1807  34
Stephenson, (Miss) Florence. Teacher in mountain schools.. 440
Sternbergh, Daniel. Murder of  345
Stewart Family. Came from Georgia  212
Stewart, (Rev.) E. L. Publisher of "Sword of the Lord"  437
Stewart, John. Visited Mississippi before 1769  81
Still House. On White Top  22
Stock-Raising. Facts about  285, 286, 519, 520
Pamphlet on  ,\ 519
Stock Stands. Facts about  285, 286
Stockton Brothers. Stage coach contractors  244
Stokes, (Gen.) Montfort. Boundary line commissioner in 1813 29
Boundary line commissioner in 1819  48
His son's quarrel with Carson  363 ¦>
Stone, Governor. Refused to have second boundary line survey 36
Stone, Jordan. Edited The Citizen  451
Stradley, (Rev.) Peter. Lived at Flat Rock  184
Strange, Thomas W. Trial and acquittal of  303
Strange, Wm. Owned farm at Brasstown Creek  187
Stratton, John and Robert. Settled on "balds," sketch of  212
Strother, John. Diary as boundary line surveyor quoted. .38 to 48
Bought Blount lands for taxes  137
Devised unsold lands to Blount  138
His will stood test of courts  138
Sudderth, Abraham. Mentioned  187
Suffrage. Under Constitution of 1835  633
Sullivan, E. E. Came to start a graveyard and did  191
Summey, Albert T. Contributed to Asheville's Centenary .... 146
Story about holding many offices  345
Summey, Dan. F. Built road in Graham  211
Sun Dials. The only clocks in old days  282
Superstitions. Facts about  257, 270, 335, 336

702 INDEX

PAGE
Supreme Court. Decision in R. R. v. Holden criticised  458, 460
Surveys and Surveyors.
Anthony Bledsoe surveys Virginia line  23
Timothy Terrell was surveyor for Georgia  31
Robert Love was surveyor for North Carolina  31
Robert Henry and John Strother in 1799  38, 39
W. Davenport for second North Carolina and Tennessee
survey  48
Thomas Freeman, surveyor of Meigs & Freeman line  52
Hawkins and Pickens surveys of 1791  52
Two surveyors for line  53
W. W. Stringfield follows M. & F. line  53
Mr. Churton, surveyor with Moravian party, 1752  61
He never ran fourth line; was stopped by Indians  62
Surveyors required to classify Cherokee lands  132
Also to note springs, minerals; to make maps  132
Swain County. Early history of  208
Swain, Gov. D. L. Sketch of  382, 383
Swain, George. Sketch of  150
Visited by Asbury  218
Swannanoa Gap Road. Where it used to cross Blue Ridge .... 235
Swan Ponds. Entered by McDowell; houses at, etc  71
Swedes. Settlers of 1730  13
Swepson and Littlefield Frauds.
Sold bonds endorsed by State  457
Division of Western North Carolina R. R  457
Littlefield's subscription  457
Swepson elected president  457
Election of directors at Morganton  457
Nominal contract executed for work  457
Littlefield and Deweese levy toll on legislation  458
Supposed decision declaring bonds unconstitutional  458
Rehearing and final decision of question  458, 459, 460
Mothods then in vogue with courts and legislature  460
Col. Woofin's view as to intent of Swepson and Littlefield 460
Hopkins & Co. outwit commissioners  465, 466
Sweeping resolution of directors as to sale of bonds  461
Swepson's high position in State  461
Littlefield's election as president  462
Commissioners appointed to make final settlement  462
Flight of Swepson and Littlefield  462
Indictment of Swepson and Littlefield in Buncombe  462
Commissioners settle with Swepson at Washington, D. C.
462, 463, 464
Commissioners settle with Littlefield in London  465
Florida railroads securities purchased, etc  464
Florida securities pledged with brokers  464, 465
London settlement with Littlefield  465
Railroad iron frauds  465, 466

INDEX 703

PAGE
Swepson and Littlefield. Swepson caused bonds of Florida rail
road to be issued fraudulently  466
Governor of Florida impeached and removed  467
Rollins elected president of Western North Carolina R. R.. . 467
Litigation in Florida to recover State's money  467
Decision adverse to State  467, 468
Sword-Tilt. Between Herndon and Beverly  109
Syllabary. Invented by Sequoya, facts about  574, 575
Sylva, Town of. Moving court house to; tannic acid plant. .193, 194
Talbott, Thomas. Elected clerk Franklin senate  113
Tallassee Ford. Boundary line party reached  50
Tallassee Old Town. Now the Hardin farm  50
Once owned by Crusoe Jack  239
Tanning Hides. Facts about  264, 265
Tate, Robert and William. Conveyed land to Morris  145
Tate's Place. Passed by Sevier  Ill
Tatham, James. Sketch of  187
Tatham, John G. Clerk of Graham County  210
Tatham, Thomas. Sketch of  177
Taverns. See Chapter X.
Taxes. Of Franklin government paid in commodities  113
Taylor Family. Sketch of  352
Taylor, Wm. Lived on border of Ashe  198
Telegraph Line. Built by S. G. Weldon  508
Terrell, (Captain) James W. Sketch of  581
Telephone Line. The Asheville line incorporated  508
Thermal Belts. Facts about  519, 525
Thomas, Micajah. Owned Buck Forest  204
Thomas, Robert. Sketch of  184
Thomas, Stephen. Commissioner, etc  197
Sketch of  165
Thomas, (Col.) Wm. Holland. Action in road matters  241
Accompanied Old Charley's party  577
Made terms for Eastern Band to remain  578
Doubts as to authority originally given  579
Did much for the mountain section  635
Related to Zachary Taylor  580
Clerk for Felix Walker, took law books in pay  580
Adopted by Yonaguska  58°
Owned five trading stores  581
Drew simple form of government for Cherokees  581
Enlisted Cherokees in his legion  581
Captured Col. Bartlett  581
Experience with Union men of Tennessee  609
Thompson, Clark W. Appointed superintendent of Indians  311
Thrash, John. Owned mountain land  202
Bought and sold Lowndes Farm  203
Three Forks. Described by Spangenberg  64, 65

704 INDEX

PAGE
Three Forks Church. First Baptist church west of Blue Ridge 223
Threshers. Early ones  281
Threshing Floors and Flails. Facts about  281
Thurston, (Rev.) Wm. Head of Valle Crucis  430
Death and reburial of in 1846  351, 430
Tidwell, (Captain) Wm. B. Elected captain from the ranks.. 85
Timber Lands. Advance in price of  517
Facts about distribution of  254, 516
Timber, Standing. Tables showing what still remains  516
Timothy's Southern Gazette. Contained Burrington's proclama
tion  24
Tipton, (Col.) John. Clashed with Sevier; sketch of  115, 116
Todd, (Col.) Joseph W. Sketch of  394
Toll Gates. Facts about  245
Tolliver, Wm. Trial and acquittal of  376
Toney, Berry. Gave notice of Cleveland's capture  105
Tools. Facts about the early ones  280
Tories, Mountain. Account of some  99, 100
Track Rock. Described  535
Trading Paths. From Valley towns  50
Transylvania Colony.
Inception of  85
Inconsistent action by North Carolina and Virginia as to
title thereto  85, 92
Boone spies out land for  86
Henderson's judgment delays scheme of  86
Concludes treaty for, 1775, at Sycamore Shoals  86, 87
Dragging Canoe dissatisfied with treaty  87
Consideration paid; conveyance unlawful  87
Failure of; expropriation of land by Virginia and North
Carolina  92
Virginia and North Carolina grant 200,000 acres each in
lieu of  92
Transylvania County. History of; first settlers, etc. . . . 202 to 205
Treaty with Great Britain.
As to northern boundary of U. S  25
Secret treaty as to 31st parallel  26
Land acquired from by Pinckney's diplomacy  26
Treaties with Indians.
Our western boundary fixed at head of Great River, 1761 . . 54
Of 1772, with Virginia, ran west from White Top  54
It left Watauga Settlements in Indian territory  54
Watauga settlers secure lease for eight years  54
Virginia Purchase of 1775 secured land at head of Watauga,
etc  54
Boundaries of purchased land  54, 55
Of Hopewell, 1785, moved boundary west of Blue Ridge. . 55
Boundaries of new territory  55
Its exact location unnecessary because of treaty of 1791 .... 55

INDEX 705
PAGE
Treaties with Indians. North Carolina Indian Reservation did
not rest on a treaty  55
Of 1791 and 1792, of 1795 and 1798, call for Meigs and Free
man line  56
- Of 1819, ceded land around Hiwassee River, etc  56
Of New Echota, 1835, ceded land east of Mississippi  56
Consideration for, and agreement to remove  56
Of Sycamore Shoals, 1775, with Henderson, etc  86
Of Lochaber, 1770, acknowledged Cherokee title to Ky  90
Commissioners at Hopewell deny Cherokee title to land  85
Of Fort Stanwix, 1768, cedes title of six nations, etc  89, 90
Recapitulation of Indian treaties  634
Convention of State of Franklin made  113
Triangle Tree. Described  535
Triplett, Elias. Succeeded Williamson Warlick  150
Truet, Rev. George. Fine preacher  208
Tryon's Boundary Line. West of white settlements, run in 1767, 51
Disregarded by hunters and Traders ; death of same  51
Tuckaleechee Cove. View of from Great Smoky Mountains  49
Tugman, Micajah. Finds Riddle's knife  102
Turnbill, J. J. Man of unusual sense  186
Turnpike. Unicoy, in Cherokee County  48
Cataloochee, near Big Pigeon  48
Boundary line from Cataloochee, to Georgia line  48
From 65th mile to Hiwassee turnpike, country in dispute . . 50
End of turnpikes and toll gates on Western turnpike  245
Tweed Family. Early settlers of Madison  196
Tyrrell, Timothy. Surveyor of Georgia State boundary line. ... 31
Unaka Mountains. First roads built over  238
Danger in crossing in winter  209
Disputed boundary line marked upon  50
United Daughters of Confederacy. Facts about  653
Urqhardt, (Miss) Cora. Home of at Flat Rock  493
Valle Crucis. Early history of  430
Order of Holy Cross founded at  430, 432
Rebuilding of  432
School for girls  432, 433
"Valley of Cousins"  351
Originally owned by a Hix, and sold for a song  351
Facts about old times, freshets, etc  354
Valentine, (Prof.) Frank. Sketch of  184
Vance, (Col.) Carson. Sold free negro, etc  332
Vance, David, Sr. Boundary line commissioner  38
Left account of Kings Mountain  38
Sketch of  98
Secured act to create Buncombe County  143
Vance, (Capt.) David. Father of R. B. and Z. B  98
W. N. C— 45

706 INDEX

PAGE
Vance, (Capt.) David. Soldier of two wars  99
Sketch of  99
Vance, (Dr.) R. B. Sketch of  361
Duel with Carson  359, 368
Vance, (Gen.) R. B. Led troops across Smokies  49
Sketches of  49, 646
Account of his raid into Tennessee in 1864  609 to 611
Divided his forces, and was captured, etc  610
Vance, (Hon.) Z. B. Facts about his career  99
His early home  259
Dr. Baird's tribute to  384
Edited newspaper  449
Sketch of  645
Vance-Carson Duel. Account of  359 to 368
Vanderbilt, George W. Built Young Men's Institute  444
Contributed to kindergartens  434
Believed in North Carolina mountain men  447
Established Biltmore Village and house  505
Bought and improved Pisgah Forest  505, 506
His estate sold Pisgah Forest to United States; Forest
Reserve leased timber to Carr  506
Death of  506
Velasco, Don Louis de. Sent out expedition in 1559  12
Vendettas. Never existed in North Carolina mountains  15
Vest, Calvin C. Lived on Notla  187
Viaduct. Facts about  9, 44
Vickers, Jerry. Made locust "tombstones"  172
Volcanic Action. Described by General Clingman  306
Voyles, "Old Rock." Man of originality and humor  188
Wafford, Rev. James D. Helped translate New Testament into
Cherokee  574
Wages. Low rates of in early days  289
Wagg, (Rev.) James. Pioneer preacher  224
Walker, (Hon.) Felix. Sketches of  170, 643
Helped Nancy Hanks to leave Enloe's home  322
band  611, 612
Her struggles with poverty, and her triumph  612
Walker, (Dr.) Thomas. Found and named river and mountains, 11
Walker, Wm. Capture and probable murder of  611, 612
Walker, (Col.) Wm. C. Killed at close of Civil War  187
Walks, The. Described  539
Wallen, Hunter. Hunted at head of Tennessee River  12
Walls, Robert. Boundary line party assembled at his home .... 39
Walters, Abigail. Used as shield for Cleveland  104
Walters, Welborn. "Hermit hunter of White Top." Note 18 . . 58
Sketch of  331
Paid to kill wolves  523
Walton War. History of  32, 33 34

INDEX 707

PAGE
War of 1812. David Vance a captain in  99
Robert Love, Jr. A captain in  174
Ward, Joshua and William. Owned Lowndes Farm and built
Rock Hall  203
Ward Family. Sketch of  353
Warlick, Williamson. Made axes  149
Warm Springs. Boundary line party reached  47
Visited by Asbury  216 to 220
Owned by John E. Patton  492
Washington County — Washington District.
Extended to Mississippi River  27
First county named for Father of our Country  68
District became county  68
Boundary of new county  632
Watauga County. Early history of  188, 189
Its need of railroads  489
Its Civil War experiences, death of citizens  617, 618, 625
Watauga Settlements. Bledsoe showed they were in N. C  23
Treaty left them in Indian boundary  54
Land leased for eight years  54
Purchase of 1775 gave title  54
Southern boundary of  54
Only settlement west of Blue Ridge  60
Model for first American Republic  60
First to give Washington's name to district  68
Act of cession displeased settlers  113
They secede from North Carolina at Jonesboro  113
Their viewpoint  H3» H*
Repeal of act of cession  115
Settlers of clash with Tipton  115
Watcheesee Road. Building of  237
Wautenpaugh, (Prof.) F. M. Conducted school at Ashland  437
Waynesville. Early history of  166 to 169
Land donated for public square, churches, etc  127
Water Powers. Immense power at Rocky Point  211
Water Falls. Dry Falls. Described  537
Dutch Creek Falls. Described  537
Hickory Nut Falls. Described  537
Linville Falls. Described  537
Looking Glass Falls. Described  541
Watauga Falls. Described  537
Water Trompe. Described  278
Mentioned, 
Water Spouts. Noted by General Clingman  306
Waugh, Nathan. Resides at Old Fields  IO2
Inherited share of Old Fields  1°9
Wayah Gap. Battle there. What it means  599
Weaver Family. Sketches of by Capt. W. T. Weaver  154 to 159
Weaver, Rev. Hiram and Elihu. Pioneer preachers  224

708 INDEX

PAGE
Weaver, (Captain) Isaac. Entertained boundary line commis
sioners in 1799  39
Weaver, (Col.) James Thomas. Sketch of  622, 623
Weaver, (Capt.) W. T. Wrote sketches of Weaver family, 154, 159
Weaver Power Co. Facts about  485
Weaving. Facts about  260, 283
Weaverville. Facts about  154
Webster. Early history of; removal of courthouse  193
Weeks, Drewry. Entry taker for Cherokee  337
Sketch of  186
Weiss. Jonathan. Hunted for Moravians  62
Weiss, "Granny." A wise witch  342
Welch, (Mr. and Mrs.) Burton. Their story of Old Charley, etc, 578
Welch, John. Pursued by "Blood Avenger"  573, 574
Welch, Wm. Sketch of  151
Resident of Cherokee  187
Welch, (Captain) Wm. Pinckney. Sketch of  172
Welborne, James. Boundary line commissioner  34
Weldon, Daniel. Boundary line commissioner  22
Weldon, S. G. Built telegraph line  508
Wells, Francis Marion. Saw falling of stars  294
Knew facts about duel  370
Wells Family. Early settlers in Madison  196
Wells, Zachariah. Helped capture Cleveland, and was hanged 104 to 106
West Asheville. History of  509
West, (Dr.) J. E. Drowned and body recovered through a
dream  338
West, Irwin. Early settler of Madison  196
Western North Carolina. Location and description of  7
Western Turnpike. Building and ending of  239, 245
Wetmore, (Rev.) George. Took charge of Valle Crucis School. 431
Whipping Post. Facts about  386, 389
Whiskey Rebellion. Contributed immigrants to this section .... 248
Whitaker, James and Stephen. Sketches of  177, 187
James established churches  224
Stephen entered land  337
White, Zach. Killed by Rabun  335
Whiteside Cove. Early history of  498
Whiteside Mountain. Facts about  498, 534
Whittington, Carter. Cruelly punished by the court  375, 376
Wiggins, (Rev.) Joseph A. Sketch of  211
Wilbar, Mrs. Russell. Birth of when great rock fell  293
Wilcoxen, Elizabeth. Boone's neice  80
Wilder, Gen. John H. Built forge, roads and hotel  43
Wilkesboro Roads. Some account of  239
Willard, (Judge) A. J. Summer home of in Cashier's Valley. . . 498
Williams, Edward. Publicly whipped  386
Williams, Willoughby. Entered Cherryfield lands  204

INDEX 709

PAGE
Wilson, "Big Tom." Found Prof. Mitchell's body  297
Wilson, "Lucky Joe." Froze himself out of jail  346
Windows. Unglazed in early days  259
Wing, (Prof.) Charles H. Sketch of  446
Wit. Of former days  289
Witherspoon, David and John. Captured by Riddle and escaped, 105, 106
Witherspoon, (Captain) Wm. Harrison. Sketch of  106
Witherspoon, (Mrs.) W. H. Sketch of  106
Wolf's Den. Knife found in  102
Wolf Hills. Sent settlers to mountains  67, 248
Wolves. Musical ones described by Spangenberg  62
Woman's Edition of Citizen. Published when and by whom ... . 146
Women. A day's work for many  256
Hard lives of, when pioneers  257, 269
Wood Family. Sketch of  196
Wood, Thomas. Improved farm  202
Woodfin, (Miss) Anna. Sketch of  446
Woodfin, Henry G. Sketch of  146, 147
Woodfin, (Col.) John W. Sketches of  385, 392
Woodfin, (Col.) N. W. Sketch of  146, 147
Commissioner to settle dispute  200
Family of, facts about  392
Commissioner to settled with Swepson, etc  462
His settlements with Swepson and Littlefield  362, 365
Tried to arrest Hopkins  465
Opposed Littlefield's election as president  462
Woodruff, Wm. Settled on Blue Ridge  198
Woods, Robert. Early schoolmaster  427
Worchester and Boudinot. Translated St. Matthew into Chero
kee,  574
Worley Family. Sketch of  196
Worth Family. Sketch of  165
Wragg, Rev. James. Early resident of Jefferson  163
Yancey, Bartlett. Sketch of  178
Yancey County. Early history of  178 to 181
Disaffection to Confederacy  604
Yancey, (Hon.) Wm. Fought duel with General Clingman  367
Yonaguska. Blood Avenger, chief, adopted Thomas  580
Yonahlossee Turnpike. Facts about  246
Young, Moses. Commissioner to settle dispute  200
Zeigler & Grosscup. Quotations from their book  10, 33, 99, 335
Zachary Family. Sketch of  497, 498

Errata
IThe following errors are due to the author and not to the proof
readers of Edwards & Broughton Printing Company, who have been
most careful and conscientious. These mistakes should be corrected
on the pages indicated at once. All other errors, whether of form
or substance, should be reported to the author as soon as they are
discovered. No credit has been given to Marshall W. Bell, Esq., of
Murphy, for much of the information relating to Cherokee County
and its county seat. It should have been done.]
Change "Boone" to "Main" before "fork" in line 5 from top
of page 9.
Transpose "and" before "this" in line 13 to line 12 from top, plac
ing it before "that" on page 11.
Change "Mack Cook" to "S. M. Clark" in line 8 from bottom of'
page 84.
Insert "grand" before "father" in line 4 from bottom of page 94.
Change "Mont." to "Martin" before "Hardin" in line 4 from bot
tom of page 162.
Change "Causus" to "Casus" in line 7 from top of page 271.
"Chapter XII" should be "Chapter XIII" on page 327.
Change "1856" to 1846" in line 5 from bottom of page 351.
Change "Valle Crucis" to "Banner Elk" at end of line 9 and be
ginning of line 10 from top of page 354.
Change "A" to "F" before "E" in line 11 from top of page 451.
Change "Simpson" to "Swepson" in line 7 from bottom of page 457.
Change "hovel" to "shanty" in line 2 of Note 9, page 511.
Change "Jr." to "Sr." after "CounciU" in line 7 from top of
page 522.
710

YALE UNIVERSITY

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