STJNNY MEMORIES FOREIGN LANDF. by - , MRS. HARRIET BEECHER STOWE, AUTHOR OF ** UNCLE TOM'S C/V#N," ETC. . ^ . . . "'WK'cn thou h^iply secet Some rare note-worthy object iri thy travels, Make me partaker of thy happineas." SlIAKSPKAKE. ILLUSTRATED FROM DES1GN8'4jY n AM M ATT:'-SilXIN G S . IN TWO V0L-UME.5. VOL. I. BOSTON : PHILLIPS, SAMPSON, AND COMPANJ, NEW YORK: J. C. DERBY. 18."^ 4. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by Phillips, Sampson, akd Company, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts. STEREOTYPED AT THK BOSTON STEREOTYPE FOUNDHT. WRIGHT AND HA3TY, PRINTERS, NO. 3 WATER ST. PEEFACE. This book will be found to be truly what its name de notes, " Sunny Memories." If the criticism be made that every thing is given couleur de rose, the answer is, Why not ? They are the impressions, as they arose, of a most agreeable visit. How could they be otherwise ? If there be characters and scenes that seem drawn with too bright a pencil, the reader will consider that, after all, there are many worse sins than a disposition to think and speak well of one's neighbors. To admire and to love may now and then be tolerated, as a variety, as weU as to carp and criticize, America and England have heretofore abounded towards each other in iUiberal criticisms. There is not an unfavorable aspect of things in the old world which has not become perfectly famihar to us ; and a little of the other side may have a useful influence. The writer has been decided to issue these letters prin cipally, however, by the persevering and deliberate attempts, fiii) IV PEEFACE. in certain quarters, to misrepresent the circumstances which are here given. So long as these misrepresentations affected only those who were predetermined to believe unfavorably, they were not regarded. But as they have had some influ ence, in certain cases, upon really excellent and honest people, it is desirable that the truth should be plainly told. The object of publishing these letters is, therefore, to give to those who are true-hearted and honest the same agree able picture of life and manners which met the writer's own eyes. She had in view a wide circle of friends throughout her own country, between whose hearts and her own there has been an acquaintance and sympathy of years, and who, loving excellence, and feeling the reality of it in them selves, are sincerely pleased to have their sphere of hope fulness and charity enlarged. For such this is written ; and if those who are not such begin to read, let them treat the book as a letter not addressed to them, which, having opened by mistake, they close and pass to the true owner. The EngUsh reader is requested to bear in mind that the book has not been prepared in reference to an Eng lish but an American public, and to make due allowance for that fact. It would have placed the writer " far more at ease had there been no prospect of publication in Eng land, As this, however, was unavoidable, in some form, the writer has chosen to issue it there under her own sanction. PREFACE, y There is one acknowledgment which the author feels happy to make, and that is, to those publishers in Eng land, Scotland, France, and Germany who have shown a lib erality beyond the requirements of legal obhgation. The author hopes that the day is not far distant when Amer ica will reciprocate the Uberality of other nations by grant ing to foreign authors those rights which her own receive from them. The Journal which appears in the continental tour is from the pen of the Rev. C. Beecher, The Letters were, for the most part, compiled from what was written at the time and on the spot. Some few were entirely written after the author's return. It is an affecting thought that several of the persons who appear in these letters as among the Uving, have now passed io the great future. The Earl of Warwick, Lord Cockburn, Judge Talfourd, and Dr. Wardlaw are no more among the ways of men. Thus, while we read, while we write, the shadowy procession is passmg ; the good are being gathered into Ufe, and heaven enriched by the garnered treasures of earth, H. B, S CONTENTS THE FIEST VOLUME. Page INTRODUCTORY xi.-lxT, LETTER L The Voyage 1-13 LETTER II. Liverpool. — The Dingle. — A Bagged School. — Flowers. — Speke Hall. — Antislavery Meeting. . 14-40 LETTER IIL Lancashire. — Carlisle. — Gretna Green. — Glasgow. . . . 41-51 LETTER XV^ The Baillie. — The Cathedral. — Dr. Wardlaw. —A Tea Party — Both- well Castle. — Chivalry, — Scott and Burns 52-70 LETTER V. Dumbarton Castle. — Duke of Argyle. — Linlithgow. — Edinburgh. 71-^1 (vii) i vui CONTENTS, LETTER VL Public Soiree. — Dr. Guthrie. — Craigmiller Castle. — Bass Bock. — Ban nockburn. — Stirling. — Glamis Castle. — Barclay of Ury. — The Dee. — Aberdeen. — The Cathedral.- Brig o' Balgounie. . . 82-106 LETTER VII. Letter from a Scotch Bachelor. — Reformatory Schools of Aberdeen. — Dundee. — Dr. Dick. — The Queen iu Scotland. . . . 107-127 LETTER VIII. Mebose.-Dryburgh.- Abbotsford 128-168 LETTER IX. Douglas of Caver. — Temperance Soiree. — Calls. — Lord Gainsborough. — Sir William Hamilton. — George Combe. — Visit to Hawthornden. — Roslin Castle. — The Quakers. — Hervey 's Studio. — Grass Market. — Grayfriars' Churchyard 169-190 LETTER X. Birmingham. — Stratford on Avon 191-223 LETTER XL Warwick. — Kenilworth 224-246 LETTER XIL Birmingham. — Sybil Jones. — J.A.James 247-257 LETTER XIIL London. — Lord Mayor's Dinner 258-267 LETTER XIV. London. — Dinner with Earl of Carlisle 268-275 CONTENTS, ix LETTER XV. London.— Anniversary of Bible Society. — Dulwich Gallery. — Dinner with Mr. E. Cropper. — Soiree at Rev. Mr. Binney's. . . 276-286 LETTEE XVL Reception at Stafford House 287-300 LETTER XVII. Thc Sutherland Estate 301-313 LETTEE XVIIL Baptist Noel. — Borough School. — Eogers the Poet. — Stafford House. — Ellesmere Collection of Paintings. — Lord John Eussell. . 314-326 VOL, I, 6 INTRODUCTORY. The foUowing letters were written by Mrs. Stowe for her own personal friends, particularly the members of her own family, and mainly as the transactions referred to in them occurred. During the tour in England and Scotland, frequent allusions are made to public meetmgs held on her account ; but no report is made of the meetings, because that informa tion was given fully in the newspapers sent to her friends with the letters. Some knowledge of the general tone and spirit of the meetings seems necessary, in order to put the readers of the letters in as favorable a position to appreciate them as her friends were when they were received. Such knowledge it is the object of this introductory chapter to furnish. One or two of the addresses at each of several meetings I have given, and generally without alteration, as they ap peared in the public journals at the time. Only a very few could be pubUshed without occupying altogether too much space ; and those selected are for the most part the shortest, and chosen mainly on account of their brevity. This is cer- (xi) xu INTRODUCTOKT. tainly a surer method of giving a true idea of the spirit which actuaUy pervaded the meetings than could be accompUshed by any selection of mere extracts fi:om the several speeches. In that case, there might be supposed to exist a temptation to garble and make unfau- representations; but in the method pursued, such a suspicion is scarcely possible. In relation to my own addresses, I have sometimes taken the liberty to cor rect the reporters by my own recoUections and notes. I have also, in some cases, somewhat abridged them, (a Uberty which I have not, to any considerable extent, ventured to take with others,) though without changing the sentiment, or even essentiaUy the form, of expression. What I have here related is substantiaUy what I actually said, and what I am willing to be held responsible for. Many and bitter, durmg the tour, were the misrepresentations and misstatements of a hostUe press ; to which I offer no other reply than the plain facts of the following pages. These were the sentiments uttered, this was the manner of their utterance ; and I cheerfully submit them to the judgment of a candid pubUc. I went to Europe without the least anticipation of the kind of reception which awaited us; it was all a surprise and an embarrassment to me. I went with the strongest love of my country, and the highest veneration for her institutions ; I every where in Britain found the most cordial sympathy with this love and veneration; and I returned with both greatly increased. But slavery I do not recognize as an institution of my country ; it is an excrescence, a vUe usurpation, hated of God, and abhorred by man ; I am under no obhgation either to love or respect it. He is the traitor to America, and American iBstitutions, who reckons slavery as one of them, .and, as such, screens it from assault. Slavery is a Wight, a INTRODUCTORY. xiii • canker, a poison, in the very heart of our repubUc ; and unless the nation, as such, disengage itself from it, it wiU most as suredly be our ruin. The patriot, the phUanthropist, the Christian, truly enlightened, sees no other alternative. The developments of the present session of our national Congress are making this great truth clearly perceptible even to the duUest apprehension. C. E. STOWE. Andover, May 30, 1854. BREAKFAST IN LIVERPOOL — April 11. The Rev. Dr. M'Neile, who had been requested by the respected host to expresa to Mra. Stowe the hearty congratulations of tlie first meeting of friends she had seen in England, thus addressed her: " Mrs. Stowe : I have been requested by those kind friends under whose hospitable roof we are assembled to give some expression to the Bincere and cordial welcome with which we greet your arrival in this coimtry. I,find real difficulty in making this attempt, not from want of matter, nor from want of feel ing, but because it is not in the power of any, language I can command to give adequate expression to the affectionate enthusiasm lyhich pervades all ranks of our community, and which is truly characteristic ofthe humanity.^aud the Christianity of Great Britain. We welcome Mrs. Stowe as the honored instrument of that noble impulse which public opinion and public feeling throughout Christendom have received against the demoralizing and degrading system of human slavery. That system is still, unhappily, identified in the minds of many with the supposed material interests of society, and even with the well being of the slaves themselves ; but the plausible arguments and ingenious sophistries by which' it has been defended shrink with sham© from the facts without exaggeration, the principles without compromise, the exposures without indelicacy, and the irrepressible glow of hearty feeUng — O, how true to nature ! ^whicli characterize Mrs. Stowe's immortal book. Yet I feel assured that the effect produced by Uncle Tom's Cabin is not mainly or chiefly to be traced to the interest of the narrative, however captivating, nor to the exposures of the slave system, however withering: these would, indeed, be sufficient to produce a good effect ; but this book contains more and better than even these 3 it contains what will never be lost sight of — the genuine application to the several branches ofthe subject of the sacred word of God. By no part of this wonderful work has my own mind been so permanently impressed as by the thorough legitimacy of the application of Scripture, — no wresting, no mere verbal adaptation, but in every instance the pas sage cited is made to illustrate something in the narrative, or in the development of character, in strictest accordance with the design of the passage in its original sacred context. We welcome Mrs. Stowe, then, as an honored fellow-laborer in the highest and best of causes; and I am much mistaken if this tone of welcome be not by far the most congenial to her own feelings. We unaffectedly sympathize with much which she must feel, and, as a lady, more peculiarly feel, in passing through that ordeal of gratulation which is sure to attend her steps in every part of our country ; and I am persuaded that we cannot manifest our gratitude for her past services in any way more acceptable to herself than by earnest prayer on her behalf that she may be kept in the simplicity of Christ, enjoying in her daily experience tho tender consolations (xiv) INTRODUCTOEY. XV ofthe Divine Spirit, and in the midst of the most flattering commendations saying and feeUng, in the instincts of a renewed heart, ' Not unto me, O Lord, not unto me, but unto thy name be the praise, for tliy mercy, and for thy truth's sake.' " Professor Stowe then rose, and said, " If we are silent, it is not because we do not feel, but because we feel more than we can expresa. When that book waa written, we had no hope except in God. We had no expectation of reward save in the prayers ofthe poor. The surprising enthusiasm which has been excited by the book all over Christendom is an indication that God haa a work to be done in the cause of emanci pation. The present aspect of things in the United States is discouraging. Every change in society, every financial revolution, every political and ecclesiastical move ment, seems to pasa and leave the African race without help. Our only resource is prayer. God surely cannot will that the unhappy condition of thia portion of his chil dren should continue forever. There are some indications of a movement in the southern mind, A loading southern paper lately declared editorially that slavery ia either right or wrong : if it is wrong, it is to be abandoned : if it is right, it must bo defended. Tho SoutJtem Press, a paper established to defend the slavery interest at the soat of government, has proposed that the worst features of the system, such as the separation of faihilies, ahould be abandoned. But it is evident that witli that restric tion tho system could not exist. For instance, a man wanta to buy a cook ; but she haa a husband and seven children. Now, is ho to buy a man and seven children, for whom he has no use, for the sake of having a cook .¦' Nothing on the present occasion has been so grateful to our feelings as the reference made by Dr. M'Neile to the Christian character of the book. Incredible as it may seem to those who aro withoul prejudice, it is nevertheless a fact that this book waa condemned by some rcligioaa nowapapers in the United States as anti-Christian, and its author associated with infidels and disorganizers j and had not it been for tho decided expreaaion of the mind of English Christians, and of Chriatendom itself, on this point, there ia reason to foar that the proslavery power of tho United States would have succeeded in putting tho hook under foot. Therefore it is peculiarly gratifying that so full an indorsement haa boon given the work, in this respect, by eminent Christiana of ilie highest character in Eujopo; for, however some in the United States raay affect to despise what ia said by the wise and good of this kingdom and the Christian world, they do feel it, and feel it intensely." In answer to an inquiry by Dr. M'Neile as to the mode in - which southern Christiana defended the institution, Dr. Stowe remarked that " a great change had taken place in that respect during the last thirty yeara. Formerly all Christians united in condemning the system ; but of late some have begun to defend it on scriptural grounds, Tho Rev. fiir. Smylie, of Mississippi, wrote a pamphlet in the defensive; and Professor Thornwell, of South Carolina, has published the most candid and able statement of that argument which has been given. Their main reli ance is on tho system of Mosaic servitude, wholly unlike though it was to the Ameri can system of slavery. As to what this American eystein of slavery is, the beat xvi INTRODUCTORY. documents for enlightening the minds cf British Christians are the commercial news- papers of the slaveholding states. There you see slavery as it is, and certainly without any exaggeration. Eead the advertisements for the sale of slaves and for the apprehension of fugitives, the descriptions of the persons of slaves, of dogs for hunting slaves, Sec, and you see liow the whole matter is viewed by the southern mind. Say what they will about it, practically tliey generally regard the separation of families no more than the separation of cattle, and the slaves as so much property, and nothing else. Tlieir own papers show that the pictures of the internal slave trade given in Uncle Tom, so far from being overdrawn, fall even below the truth. Go on, then, in forming and expressing your views on this subject. In laboring for the overthrow of American slavery you are pursuing a course of Christian duty as legitimate as in laboring to suppress the suttees of India, the cannibalism of the Fejee Islands, and other barbarities of heathenism, of which human slavery is but a relic. These evils can be finally removed by the benign influence of the love of Christ, and no other power is competent to the work." PUBLIC MEETING IN LIVEKPOOL — April 13, The Chairman, (A. Hobgson, Esq.,) in opening the proceedings, thus addressed Mrs. Beecher Stowe : " The modesty of our English ladies, which, like your own, shrinks instinctively from unnecessary publicity, has devolved on me, as one of tho trustees of the Liverpool Association, the gratifying office of tendering to yon, at their request, a slight testimonial of their gratitude and respect. We had hoped almost to the last moment that Mrs. Cropper would have represented, on this day, the ladies with whom she haa coiiperated, and among whom she has taken a distinguished lead in the great work which you had the honor and the happiness to originate. But she has felt with you that the path most grateful and most congenial to female exertion, even in its widest and most elevated range, is still a retired and a shady path ; and you have taught us that the voice which most effectually kindles enthusiasm in mil lions is the still small voice which comes forth from the sanctuary of a woman's breast, and from the retirement of a woman's closet — the simple but unequivocal expression of her unfaltering faith, and the evidence of her generous and unshrinking self-devotion. In the eame spirit, and as deeply impressed with the retired character of female exertion, the ladies who have so warmly greeted your arrival in this country have still felt it entirely consistent with the most sensitive delicacy to make a public response to your appeal, and to hail with acclamation your thrilling protest against those outrages on our common nature which circumstances havo forced on your observation. They engage in no political discussion, they embark in no public contro- ver.sy; but when an intrepid sister appeals to the instincts of women of every color and of every clime against a system which sanctions the violation ofthe fondest affec- INTRODUCTORY. XVU tions and the diamption of the tenderest ties j which snatches the clinging wife from the agonized husband, and the child from the breast of its fainting mother; which leaves tho young and innocent female a helpless and almost inevitable victim of a licentiousness controlled by no law and checked by no public opinion, — it is surely as feminine as it ia Christian to sympathize with her in her perilous task, and to rejoice that she has shed such a vivid light on enormities which can exist only while unknown or unbelieved. We acknowledge with regret and shame that that fatal system was introduced into America hy Great Britain ; but having in our colonies retumed from our devious paths, we may without presumption, in the spirit of friendly suggestion, implore our honored transatlanUc friends to do the same. The ladies of Great Britain have been admonished by their fair sisters in America, (and I am auro they are bound to take the admonition in good part,) that thero aro social evils in our own countiy demanding our special vigilance and care. This ia most true ; but it is also true that the deepest aympathies and moat strenuous efforts are directed, in the first instance, to the evila which exist aniong ourselves, and that the rays of benevolence which flash across the Atlantic are often but the indication ofthe inten sity of the bright flame which is shedding light and heat on all in its immediate vicinity. I believe this is the case with most of those who have taken a prominent part in this great movement. I am sure it is preeminently the ca.-^e with respect to many of those by whom you are surrounded; and I hardly know a more miserable fallacy, by which sensible men allow themselves to be deluded, than that which assumes that every emotion of sympathy which ia kindled by objects abroad is abstracted from our sympathies at home. All experience points to a directly opposite conclusion; and surely the divine command. Mo go into all tho world, and proach the gospel to every creature,' should put to shame and silence the specious but trans parent selfishness which would contract tho limits of human sympathy, and veil itself under the garb of superior sagacity. But I must not detain you by any further obser vations. Allow me, in the name of the associated ladies, to present you with thia sraall memorial of great regard, and to tender to you tlieir and my best wishes for your health and happiness while you are sojourning among us, for the blessing of God on your children during your absence, and for your safe return to your native country when your mission shall bo accompUshed. I have just been requested to state tho following particulars : In December last, a few ladies met in this place to consider the best plan of obtaining aignatures in Liverpool to an address to the women of America on the subject of negro slavery, in aubstance coinciding with the one so nobly proposed and carried forward by Lord Shafteabury. At this meeting it was suggested that it would be a sincere gratification to many if some testimonial could he presented to filrs. Stowe which would indicate the sense, alraost universally enter tained, that she had been the instrument in the hands of Grod of arousing tho slum- boring sympathies of this country in behalf of the suffering slave. It was felt desirable to render the cxproBsion of such a feeling as general as possible ; and to offect this it xvm INTRODUCTORT. was resolved that a subscription should be set on foot, consisting of contributions of one penny and upwards, with a view tp raise a testimonial, to be presented to Mrs. Stowe by the ladies of Liverpool, as an expression of their grateful appreciation of her valuable services in the cause of the negro, and as a token of admiration for the genius and of high esteem for the philanthropy and Christian feeling which animate her great work, Uncle Tom's Cabm. It ought, perhaps, to be added, that some friends, not residents of Liverpool, have united in this tribute. As many of the ladies connected with the effort to obtain signatures to the address may not be aware of the whole number appended, they may be interested in knowing that they amounted in all td twenty- one thousand nine hundred and fifty -three. Of these, twenty thousand nine hundred and thirty-six were obtained by ladies in Liverpool, from their friends either in this neighborhood or at a distance j and one thousand and seventeen were sent to the comraittee in London from other parts, by those who preferred our form of address. The total number of signatures from all parts of the kingdom to Lord Shaftesbury's address was upwards of five hundred thousand." Professor Stowe then said, " On behalf of Mrs. Stowe I will read from her pen the response to your generous offering : * It is impossible for me to express the feel ings of my heart at the kind and generous manner in which I have been received upon English shores. Just when I had begun to realize that a whole wide ocean lay between me and all that is dearest to me, I found most unexpectedly a home, and friends waiting to receive me here. I have had not an hour in which to know tho heart of a stranger. I have been made to feel at home since the first moment of land ing, and wherever I have looked I have seen only the faces of friends. It is with deep feeling that I have found myself on ground that has been consecrated and made holy by the prayers and efforts of those who first commenced the struggle for that sacred cause which has proved so successful in England, and which I have a solemn assurance will yet be successful in my own country. It is a touching thought that here so many have given all that they have, and are, in behalf of oppressed humanity. It is touching to remember that one of the noblest men which England has ever pro duced now lies stricken under the heavy hand of disease, through a last lahor of love in this cause. May God grant us all to feel that nothing is too dear or precious to be given in a work for which such men have lived, and labored, and suffered. No great good is ever wrought out for the human race without the suffering of great hearts. They who would serve their fellow-men are ever reminded that the Captain of their salvation was made perfect through suffering. I gratefully accept the offering con fided to my care, and trust it may be so employed that the blessing of many " who are ready to perish " will return upon your heads. Let me ask those — those fathers and mothers in Israel -who have lived and prayed manyyears for this cause, that as they prayed for their own country in the hour of her struggle, so they will pray now for ours. Love and prayer can hurt no one, can offend no one, and prayer is a real power. If the hearts of all the real Christians of England are poured out in prayer. INTRODUCTORT.: xix it will be felt through the heart of the whole' American cliurch. Let us all look upward, from our own feebleness and darkneSs; to ITim'Df whom it is said, " tie shall not fail nor be diacoiiraged till he have set judgment in the earth." To him, the only wise God our Saviour, be glory and majesty, dominion and pev^cr, both now and ever. Amen.'— jThese are the words, my friends, which Mrs. Stowe -has written, and I cannot forbear to add a few words of my own. It was our intention, as Tho invitation to visit Great Britain came from Glasgow, to make our first la nding- the re. But it was ordered by Providence that we should land here ; and surely there is no place in tho kingdom where a landing could be more appropriate, and where "the. reception could have been more cordial. [Hear, hear!] It was wholly unexpected by us, I can assure you. We knew that there were friendly hearts here, for we had received abundant testimonials to that effect from lettera which had como to ua across the Atlantic — lettera wholly unexpected, and which filled our souls with surprise ; but we had no thought that there was such a feeling throughout England, and we scarcely know how to conduct ourselves under it, for we are not accustomed to this kind of receptions. In our own country, unhappily, we are very much divided, and tho preponderance of feeUng expressed ia in the other direction, entirely in opposition, and not in favor. [Hear, hear !] We knew that thia city had been the scene of some of the greatest, most disinterested, and most powerful efforts in behalf of emancipation. Tho name of Clarkson was indlssolubly associated with this place, for here ho came to make liia investigations, and here he was in danger of his life, and here he was protected by friends wlfco stood by him through the whole struggle. The names of Cropper, and of Stephen, and of many others in this city, wore very familiar to ua — [Hear, hear I] — and it was in connection with thia city that we received what to our feelings was a most effective testimonial, an unexpected letter from Lord Denman, whom we have alwaya venerated. When I was in England in 1636, there were no two persons whom I more desired to soo than the Duke of Wellington and Lord Donman; and soon I sought admission to the House of Lords, where I had the pleasure both of seeing and hearing England's great captain ; and I found my way to the Court of Clueen's Bench, where I had the pleasure of seeing and hearing Eng land's great judge. But how uno.vpectod waa all this to ua ! WJicn that book was written, in sorrow, and in sadness, and obscurity, and with the heart almost broken in tho view ofthe sufferings which it described, and the still ^loaior sufferings wiiich it dared not describe, there was no expectation of any thing but tho prayers of tho Bufibrcrs and thc ble.'^sing of God, who has said that the seed which is buried in tho earth shall spring up in his own good time ; and though it may bo long buried, it will still at length come forth and bear fruit'. We never could believe that slavery in our land would be a perpetual curse; but we felt, and felt deeply, that there must be a terrible struggle before we could be delivered from it, and that there mustbe suffering and martyrdom in this cause, as in every other great cause ; for a struggle of eighteen years had taught ua its atrength. And, under God, we rely very much on the XX INTRODUCTORY. Christian public of Great Britain ; for every expression of feeling from the wise and good of this land, with whatever petulance it may be met by some, goes to the heart of the American people. [Hear, hear !] You must not judge of the American people by the expressions which have come across the Atlantic -in reference to the subject. Nine tenths of the American people, I think, are, in opinion at least, with you on this great subject; [Hear, hear!] but there is a tremendous pressure brought to bear upon all who are in favor of emancipation. The whole political power, the whole money power, almost the whole ecclesiastical power is wielded in dfefence of slavery, protecting it from all aggression ; and it is as much as a man's reputation is worth to utter a syllable boldly and openly on the other side. Let me say to the ladies who have heen active in getting up the address on the subject of slavery, that you have been doing a great and glorious work, and a work most appropriate for you to do f^ for in slavery it is woman that suffers most intensely, and the suffering woman has a claim upon the sympathy of hBr sisters in other lands. This address will produce a powerful impression throughout the country. There are ladies already of the highest character in the nation pondering how they shall make a suitable response, and what they sliall do in reference to it that will he acceptable to the ladies of the United Kingdom, or will be profitable to the slave j^and in due season you will see that the hearts of American women are alive to this matter, as well as the hearts of the women of this country, [Hear, hear !] Such was the mighty influence brought to bear upon every thing that threatened slavery, that had it not been for the decided expression on this side of the Atlantic in reference to the work which has exerted, under God, so much influence, there is every reason to fear that it would have been crushed and put under foot, as many other efforts for the overthrow of slavery have been in the United States. But it is impossible ; the unanimous voice of Christendom prohibits it ; and it shows that God has q work to accomplish, and that he haa just commenced it There are social evils in England. Undoubtedly there are ; but the difference between the social evils in England and this great evil of slavery in the United States is just here : In England, the power of the govemment and the power of Christian sympathy are exerted for the removal of those evils. Look at the committees of inquiry in Parlia ment, look at the amount of information collected with regard to the suffering poor in their reports, and see how ready the govemment of Great Britain is to enter into those inquiries, and to remove those evils. Look at the benevolent institutions ofthe United Kingdom, and see how active all these are in administering relief; and then see the condition of slavery in the United States, where the whole power of the government is used in the contrary direction, where every influence is brought to bear to prevent any mitigation of the evil, and where every voice that is lifted to plead for a mitigation is drowned in vituperation and abuse from those who are determined that the evil shall not be mitigated. This is the difference : England repents and refbrms. America refuses to repent and reform. It is said, * Let each country take care of itself, and let the ladies of England attend to their own business.' Now I have always found that those who labor at home are those who labor abroad ; [Hear, hear !] and those who INTRODUCTORr. Xxi say, * Let us do the work at home,' are those who do no work of good either at home or abroad. [Hear, hear!] It was just so when the great missionary effurt came up in the United Suites. Tliey said, * We have a. great territory here. Let us send missionaries to our own territories. Why should we send mi:-oionaries across the ocean?'' But those who sent missionaries across the ocean were tiio.-e who sent missionaries in the United States ; and those who did not send missionaries across the ocean were those who sent missionaries nowhere. [Hear, hear!] They wlio say, * Charity begins at home,* are generally those who have no charity ; and when I aee a lady whose name is signed to thia address, I am sure to find a lady who ia exercising her benevolence at home. Let me thank you for all the interest you have manifeated and for all the kindness which we have received at your hands, which we shall ever remember, both with gratitude to you and to God our Father." Tho Rev. C. fil. Birrell afterwards made a few remarks in proposing a vote of thanks to the ladles wlio had contributed the testimonial which had been presented to the distinguished writer of Uncle Tom's Cabin. Ho said it was most delightful to hear of the great good which that remarkable volume had done, and, ho humbly believed, by God's special inspiration and guidance, was doing, in tho United States of America. It was not confined tn the United States of America. The volume was going forth over the whole earth, and great good waa resulting, directly and indi rectly, by God's providence, from It. He waa told a few days ago, by a gentleman fully conversant with the facts, that an edition of Uncle Tom, circulated in Belgium, had created an earnest desire on the part of the people to read the Bible, so frequently quoted iii that beautiful work, and that in consequence of it a great run had been made upon the Bible Society's depositories in that kingdom. [Hear, hear!] The priests of tho church of Koine, true to their instinct, in endoavoriog to maintain tho position which thoy could not otherwise hold, had published another edition, from which they had entirely excluded all reference to the word of God. [Hear, hoar!] He had been also told that at St. Petersburg an edition of Uncle Tom had been translated into the Russian tongue, and that it was being distributed, by command of the emperor, throughout the whole of that vast empire. It was true that tho circulation of the work there did not spring from a special desire on tlio part of the emperor to give liberty to the people of Russia, but because ho wished to create a third power in the empire, to act upon the nobles ; he wished to cause them to set free their serfs, in order that a third power might be created in the empire to serve as a check upon them. But whatever waa the cause, let us thank God, the Author of all gifts, for what is done. Sir George Stephen seconded the motion of thanks to the ladies, observing that he had peculiar reasons tor doing so. He supposed that he wai one of the oldest laborers in this cause. Thirty years ago he found that the work of one lady was equal to that of fifty men ; and now we had the work of one lady which was equal to that of all the male sex. [Applause.] VOL. I. C INTEODUCTORT. PUBLIC MEETING IN GLASGOW — April 15. The Rev. Dr. Wardlaw was introduced by the chairman, and spoke as follows ; — *' The members of the Glasgow Ladles' New Antislavery AssociaUon and the citi zens of Glasgow, now assembled, hail with no ordinary satisfaction, and with becoming gratitude to a kindly protecting Providence, the safe arrival amongst them of Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe. They feel obliged by her accepting, with so much promptitude and cordiality, the invitation addressed to her — an invitation intended to expresa the favor they bore to her, and the honor in which they held her, as the eminently gifted authoress of Uncle Tom's Cabin — a work of humble name, but of high excellence and world-wide celebrity ; a work the feUcity of whose conception is more than equalled by the admirable tact of its execution, and the Christian benev olence of ita design, hy its exquiaite adaptation to its accomplishment; distinguished by the singular variety and consistent discrimination of its characters ; by the purity of ita reUgious and moral principles; by its racy humor, and its touching pathos, and its effectively powerful appeals to the judgment, the conscience, and the heart; a work, indeed, of whose sterling worth the earnest test is to he found in the fact of ita having so universally touched and stirred the bosom of our common humanity, in all classes of society, that its humble name has become * a household word,' from the • palace to the cottage, and of the extent of ita circulation having been unprecedented in the history ofthe literature of this or of any other age or country. They would, at the aame time, include in their hearty welcome the Rev. C. E. Stowe, Professor of Theological Literature in the Andover Theological Seminar^', filassachusetts, whose eminent qualifications, aa a classical scholar, a man of general literature, and a theologian, have recently placed him in a highly honorable and responsible position, and who, on the subject of slavery, holds the same principles and breathes the same spirit of freedom with his accompUshed partner; and, along with them too, another member of the same singularly talented family with herself. They delight to think ofthe amount of good to the cause of emancipation and universal liberty which her Cabin has already done, and to anticipate the still larger amount it is yet destined to do, now that the Key to the Cabin has triumphantly shown it to be no fiction ; and in whatever further efforts she may be honored of Heaven to make In the same noble cause^ they desire, unitedly and heartily, to cheer her on, and bid her 'God speed.' I cannot but feel myself highly honored in having been requested to move this resolu tion. In doing so, I have the happiness of introducing to a Glasgow audience a lady from the transatlantic continent, the extraordinary production of whose pen referred ', and blessings;' " * The Rev. Professor then continued. " fily Lord Provost, Ladies and Gentlemen : This cause, to be successful, must be carried on in a religious spirit, with a deep sense of our dependence on God, and with that love for our fellow-men which the gospel requires. Itis because I think I have raet this spirit since I reached the shores of Great Britain, in those who have taken an interest in the cause, that I feel encouraged to hope that the expression of your feeling will be effective on the hearts of Chris tiana on the other side ofthe Atlantic. There are Christians there as sincere, as hearty, and as earnest, as any on the face of the earth. They liave looked at this subject, and been troubled ; they have hardly known what to do, and their hearts have been discouraged. They have almost turned away their eyea from it, because they have scarcely dared encounter it, the difficulties appeared to them so great. Wrong cannot always receive the su^pport of Christians; wrong must be done away with* and what must be — what God requires to be — that certainly wUl be. Now, in tliia age, man is every where beginning to regard the sufferings of his fellow-man as his own. There is an interest felt in man, as man, which was not felt in preceding agea. The facilities of communication are bringing all nations in contact, and whatever wrong exists in any part of the world, is every where felt. There are wrongs and sufferings every where ; but those to which we are accustomed, we look upon with most indifference, because being accustomed to them, we do not feel their enormity. INTRODUCTORY. XXXI Ifou feel the enormity of slavery more than we do, because you are not immediately interested, and regard it at a distance. We regard some of the wrongs that exist in the old world with more sensibility than you can regard them, because we are not ac customed to them,' and you are. Therefore, in the spirit of Christian love, it belongs to Christian men to apeak to eacli other with great fidelity. It has been said that you know little or nothing about slavery. O, happy men, that you are ignorant of its enor mities. [Hear, hear!] But you do know something about it. You know as much about it as you know ofthe widow-burning in India, or the cannibalism in the Fejee Islands, or any of those crimes and sorrows of paganism, that induced you to send forth your raissionaries. You know it is a great wrong, and a terrible obstacle to the progress of the gospel ; and that is enough for you to know to induce you to act. You have aa much knowledge as ever induced a Christian community in any part of the world tu exert an influence Ih any other part of the world. Slavery is a relic of paganism, of barbarUm ; it must be removed by Christianity ; and if the light of Christianity shines on it clearly, it certainly will remove it. There are thousands of hearts in the United Stales that rejoice in your help. Whatever cxpreasions of impatience and petulance you may hear, be assured that these expressions aro not the heart of the great body of the people. [Cheers.] A large proportion of that country is free from slavery. There is an area of freedom ten times larger than Great Britain in territory.* [Cheers.] But all the power over the slave is in the hands of the slaveholder. You had a power over the slaveholder by your national legislature ; our national legislature has no power over the slaveholder. All the legislation that can in that country be brought to boar for the slave, is legislation by the slaveholders themselvea. There is where the difficulty lies. It is altogether by persuasion, Christian counsel, Christian P3'mpathy, Christian oarnestnesa, tliut any good can be effected for the alave. The conacicnco of the people is against tho system — the conscience of the people, even in the slavehold ing states; and if we can but get at the conscience vvithout exciting prejudice, it will tend greatly towards the desired effect. But this appeal to the conscience must be uninter- mittent, constant. Your hands must not be weary, your prayers must not be discon tinued ; but every day and every hour should we be doing something towards the ob ject. It is sometimes said, Americans who resist slavery are traitors to their coun try. No ; those who would support freedom are the only true friends of their coimtry. Our fathers never intended slavery to be identified with the government of the United States ; but in tho temptations of commerce the evil was overlooked ; and how changed for the worse haa become the public sentiment even within the last thirty or forty yeara ! The enormous increase in the consumption of cotton has raised enormously tho market value of slaves, and arrayed both avarice and political ambition in defence of slavery. Instruct the ctmscience, and produce free cotton, and this will be like " This, alas I is no longer true. By the Nccnt passage of tho infamous Nebraska bill, this whole region, with the exception of two states already organized, is laid open to slavery. This fUithlcsa measure was nobly resisted by a large and able minority in Congress — honor to them. xxxu INTRODUCTORY. Cromwell-s exhortation to his soldiers, * Trust in Ood, and keep your powder dry.' " [Continued cheers.] The Rev. Dr. R. Lee then said : " I am quite sure that every individual here re sponds cordially to those sentiments of respect and gratitude towards our honored guest which have been so well expressed by the Lord Provost and the other gentlemen who have addressed us. We think that this lady has not only laid us under a great obligation by giving ua one of the most delightful books in the English language, but that she has improved us as men and aa Christians, that she has taught us the value nf our privileges, and made us more sensible than we were before of the obligation which lies upon us to promote every good work. I have been requested to say a (ew words on the degradation of American slavery; but I feel, in the presence of the gentleman who last addressed you, and of those who are still to address you, that it would be al most presumption in me to enter on such a subject. It is Impossible to speak or to think of the subject of slavery without feeUng that there is a double degradation in tbe mat ter; for, in the first place, the slave is a man made in the image of God — God's image cut in ebony, as old Thomas Fuller quaintly but beautifully said ; and what right have we to reduce him tn the image of a brute, and make property of him.'' We esteem drunkenness as a sin. Why is it a sin ? Because it reduces that which was made in the image of God to the image of a brute. We say to the drunkard, * You are guilty of a sacrilege, bncause you reduce that which God made in his own image " into tha image of an irrational creature." ' Slavery does the very eame. But there is not only a degradation committed as regards the slave — there is a degradation also committed against himself by him who makes him a slave, and who retains him in the position of a slave ; for is it not one of the most commonplace of truths that we cannot do a wrong to a neighbor without doing a greater wrong to ourselves ? — that we cannot in jure him without also Injuring ourselves yet more.? I observe there is a certain class of writers in America who are fond of representing the feeling of this country towards America aa one of jealousy, if not of hatred. I think, my lord, that no American ever travelled in this country without being conscious at once that this is a total mistake — that this is a total misapprehension. I venture to say that there is no nation on tho face of the earth in which we feel half eo much interest, or towards which we feel the tenth part of the affection, which we do towarda our brelhren in the United States of America. And what is more than that — there is no nation towards which we feel one half so much admiration, and for which we feel half so much respect, as we do for the people of the United States of America. [Cheers.] Why, sir, how can It be other wise r How is it possible that it should be the reverse ? Are they not our bone and our flesh? and their character, whatever it is, ia it any thing more than our own a little exaggerated, periiaps.? Their virtues and their vices, their faults and their exceUences, are just the virtues and the vices, the faults and the excellences, of that old respectable freeholder, John Bull, from whom they are descended. We are not much surprised that a nation which are slaves themselvea should make other men INTRODUCTORY. XXXIU slaves. This cannot very much surprise us: but we are both surprised and we are deeply grieved, that a nation which has conceived so well thc idea of freedom — a na tion which has pre;ichcd the doctrines of freedom wiih such boldness and such fulness — a nation which basso boldly and jierfectly realized ita idea of freedom in every other respect — should in this only inatance have sunk so completely below its own idea, and forgetting the rights of one classof their fellow-creatures, should have deprived them of freedom altogether. I say that our grief and our disapprobation of this In the case of our brethren in America arises very much from this, that in other respects we admire them so much, we are sorry that so noble a nation should allow a blot like this to re main upon Its escutcheon. I am not Ignorant — nobody can be ignorant — of the great difficulties which encompass the solution of this question in America, it is vain for us to shut our eyes to it. There can be no doubt whatever that'great sacrifices will require to be made in order to get rid of this great evil. But the Americans are a moat ingenious people ; they are full of inventions of all sorts, from the invention of a machine for protecting our feet from the water, to a machine fur inaking ships go by means of heated air ; from tho one to tho other the whole field of discovery is occu pied by their inventive genius, Thero is not an article In common use among us hut bears some stamp of America. Wo rise inthe raorning, and before we are dressed we havo had half a dozen American articles in our hands. And during the day, as wo pass through the streets, articles of American invention meet us every where. In short, Ihe ingenuity of the people ia proclaimed all over the world. And thero can be no doubt that the moment this great, thia ingenious people finds that slavery ia both an evil and a ain, their ingenuity will bo successfully exerted in discovering some in vention for preventing its abolition from ruining thom altogether. [Cheers.] No doubt their ingenuity will he equal to the occasion ; imd I may take the Uberty of add ing, that their ingenuity in that case will find even a richer reward than it has done in those other inventions which have done them so much honor, and been productive of ao much profit. I say, that sacrifices must be made ; there can bo no doubt about that ; but I would also observe, that the longer the evil is permitted to continue, the greater and more tremendous will become the sacrifice which will be needed tn put an end to It; for all history proves that a nation encumbered with slavery ia surrounded with danger. [Applause.] Has the history of antiquity been written in vain ? Does it not toacli us that not only domestic and social pollutions are tho inevitable results, but does it not teach us also that political Insecurity and political revolutions as certainly slum ber beneath theinstitutionof slavery as fireworks at the basis of Mount ^Etna.? [Cheers.] It cannot but be so. Men no moro than steam can be compressed without a tremen doua revulsion ; and lot our brethren in America be sure of this, that the longer the day of reckoning is put off by them, the more tremendous at last that reckoning wiU be." [Loud applause.] ****** In regard to this meeting at Edinburgh, there waa a ridiculous story circulated and vari- VOL. I. d XXXIV INTRODUCTORY. ously commented on in certain newspapers of the United States, that tfie .American fiag was there exhibited, insulted, tom, and mutilated. Certain reUgious papers took the lead in propagating the slander, which, so far as I know or can learn, Itad no foundation^ un less it be that, in the arranging of the flag around its staff, the stars might have been more distinctly visible than the stripes. The walls were profusely adorned with drapery, and there were numerous flags disposed in festoons. Truly a wonderful thing to make a story of, and then parade it in the newspapers from Maine to Texas, begin ning in Philadelphia ! PUBLIC MEETING IN ABEEDEEN — April 21. ADDRESS OF THE CITIZENS, Mns. H. Beecher Stowe. Madam: The citizens of Aberdeen have much pleasure in embracing the oppor tunity now afforded them of expressing at once their esteem for yourself personally, and their Interest in the cause of which you have been the distinguished advocate. While they would not render a blind homage to mere genius, however exalted, they consider genius such as yours, directed by Christian principle, as that which, for the welfare of humanity, cannot be too highly or too fervently honored. Without depreciating the labors of the various advocates of slave emancipation who have appeared from time to time on both sides of the Atlantic, they may consci entiously award to you the praise of having brought about the present universal and enthusiastic sentiment in regard to the slavery which exists in America. The galvanic battery may be arranged and charged, every plate, wire, and fluid being in its appropriate place; but, until some hand shall bring together the extremities of the conducting medium, in vain might we expect to elicit the latent fire. Every heart may throb with the feeling of benevolence, and every mind respond to the senUment that man, in regard to man, should be free and equal ; but it is Ihe prov ince of genius such as yours to give unity lo the universal, and find utterance for the felt. When society has been prepared for some momentous movement or moral reforma tion, so that the hidden thoughts of the people want only an interpreter, the thinking community an organ, and suffering humanity a champion, distinguished is the honor belonging to the individual in whom all these requisites are found combined. To you has been assigned by Providence the important task of educing the latent emotions of humanity, and waking the music that slumbered in the chords of the uni versal human heart, till it has pealed forth in one deep far rolling and harmonious an them, of which the heavenly burden is, " Liberty to the captive, and the opening of the prison to them that are bound ! " The production of your accomplished pen, which haa already called forth such un- INTRODUCTORY. XXXV qualified eulogy from almost every land where An^o-Saxon Uterature finda access, and created so sudden and fervent an excitement on the momentous subject of American slavery, haa nowhere been hailed with a more cordial welcome, or produced more salu tary effects, than in the city of Aberdeen. Though long ago imbued vvith antislavery principles and interested in the progress of liberty in every part of the world, our community, like many others, required such information, suggestions, and appeals as your valuable work contains in one great de partment of slavery, in order that their interest might be turned into a specific direc tion, and their principles reduced to combined practical effort. Already they have esteemed it a privilege to engage with some activity in the pro motion of the interests of the fugitive slave ; and they shall henceforth regard with a deeper interest than ever the movements of their Araerican brethren in thia matter, until thero exists among them no slavery from which to flee. While they participate in your abhorrence of slavery in the American states, tlipy trust they need scarcely assure you that they participate also in your love for Ihe Ameri can people. It is in proportion as they love that nation, attached to them by so many ties, that they lament the existence of a system which, ao long as it exists, must bring odium upon the national character, as it cannot fail to enfeeble and impair their best social institu tions. Thoy believe it to bo a maxim that man cannot hold his fellow-man in slavery with out being himself to some extent enslaved. And of this the censorship of the presa, together with the expurgatorial indices of various religious societies inthe Southern Slates of America, furnish ample corroboration. It is hoped that your own nation may speedily bo directed to recognize you as its best friend, for having stood forth in the spirit of true patriotism to advocate tho claims of a largo portion of your countrymen, and to seek the removal of an evil w Inch has dono much to neutralize tho moral Influenco of your country's best (and otherwise free) in stitutions. Accept, then, from the community of Aberdeen their congratulations on Ihe lilgh literary fame which you have by a single effort so deservedly acquired, and their grate ful acknowledgments for your advocacy of a cause in which the best interests of hu manity are involved. Signed in name and by appointment of a public meeting of the citizens of Aberdeen within the County Buildings, thia Slst April, 1653, A.D. GEO, HESSAY, Provost of .Aberdeen, INTKODUCTORY. PUBLIC MEETING IN DUNDEE — April 22. Mr. Gilfillan, who waa received with great applause, said he had been intrusted hy the Committee of the Ladies* Antislavery Associalloh to present the following address to Mrs. Stowe, which he would read to the meeting : — "Madam: We, the ladies of the Dundee Antislavery Association, desire to add our feeble voices to the acclamations of a world, conscious thai your fame and charac ter need no testimony from us. We are less anxious to honor you than to prove that our appreciation and respect are no lesa sincere and no less profound than those of the miUions in olher places and other lands, whom you have instructed, improved, de lighted, and thrilled. We beg permission to lay before you the expressions of a grati tude and an enthusiasm in some measure commensurate with yonr transcendent Uter ary merit and moral worth. We congratulate you on the success of the chef-d'a.uvre of your genius, a success altogether unparalleled, and in all probability never to be paralleled in the history of Uterature. We congratulate you still more warmly on that nobility and benevolence of nature which rnade you from childhood the friend of Ihe unhappy slave, and led you to accumulate unconsciously the materials for the immor tal tale of Uncle Tom's Cabin. We congratulate you in having in that tale sup ported with matchless eloquence and pathos the cause of the crushed, the forgotten, the injured, of those who had no help of man at all, and who had even been blasphemously taught by professed ministers of the gospel of mercy that Heaven too was opposed to their liberation, and had blotted them out from the catalogue of man. We recognize, too, with delight, the spirit of enlightened and evangelical piety which breathes through your work, and serves to confute the calumny that none but infidels are inter ested in the cause of abolition — a calumny which cuts at Christianity with ayet sharper edge than at abolition, but which you have proved to be a foul and malignant false hood. We congratulate you not only on the richness of the laurels which you have won, but on the dignity, the meekness, and the magnanimity with which these laurels have been wom. We hail in you our most gifted sister in the great cause of liberty — we bid you warmly welcome to our city, and we pray Almighty God, the God of the oppressed, to pour hia eelectest blessings on your head, and to spare your invaluable life, till yours, and ours, and others' efforts for the cause of aboUtion are crowned with success, and till the shouts of a universal jubilee shall proclaim that in all quar ters of the globe the African is free." The address was handed to Mrs. Stowe amid great applause. Mb. Gilfillan con tinued: "In addition to the address which I have now read, I have been requested to add a few remarks ; and in making these 1 cannot but congratulate Dundee on the fact that Mrs. Stowe has visited it, and that she has had a reception worthy of her distinguished merits. [Applause.] It ia not Dundee alone that is present here to-night : INTRODUCTORY. XXXVU it is Forfarshire, Fifeshire, and I may also add, Perthshire: — that aro here to do honor tu themselvea in.duing honor to our illustrious guest. [Cheers.] There are as sembled hore representatives of the general feeling that boils in the whole land — not from our streets alone, but from our country valleys— from our glens and our moun tains. 0 I.I wish that Mrs. Stowe would but spare time to go herself and study that enthusiasm amid its own mountain recesses, amid tbe uplands and tho friths, and the wild solitudes of our own unconquered and unconquerable land. She would see scenery there worthy of that pencil which has painted so powerfully the glories of tho Mississippi ; ay, and she would find her name known and reverenced in every hamlet, and see copies of Uncle Tom's Cabin in the shepherd's shieling, beside Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress, the Life of Sir William WaUace, Rob Roy, and the Gaelic Bible. I saw copiea of it carried by travellers last autumn among the gloomy gran deurs of Glencoe, and, aa Coleridge once aaid when he saw Thomson's Seasons lying in a Welsh wayside inn, 'That is true fame,' I thought Ihis was fame truer still, [Applause.] It is too late in the day to criticize Uncle Tom's Cabin, or to speculate on its unprecedented history — a history which seems absolutely magical. Why, you are reminded of Aladdin'a lamp, and of the palace that was reared by genii in ono night. Mra. Stowe's geniua has dono a greater wonder than thia — it has reared in a marvellously short time a structure which, unlike that Arabian fabric, ia a reality, and ahall last forever. [Applause.] Slie niual not be allowed to depreciate her self, and to call her glorious book a mere * bubble.' Such a bubble thero never was before. I wish we had ten thousand such bubbles. [Applause,] If it had been a bubble it would have broken long ago. • Man,' saya Jeremy Taylor, 'is a bubble.' Yea, but ho la an immorlal one. And auch an imraortal bubble is Uncle Tom's Cabin ; it can only with raan expire ; and yet a year ago not ten individuala in this vast assembly had over heard of its author's namo. [Applause.] At ita artistic merits we may well marvel — to find in a small voluine the descriptive power of a Scott, tho liuinor of a Dickens, the keen, observing glance of a Thackeray, the pathos of a Rich ardson or Mackenzie, combined with qualities of earnestnesa, simplicity, human ity, and womanhood pecuUar to the author herself. But there are three things which strike me as peculiariy remarkable about Uncle Tom's Cabin : it is the work of an American — of a woman— and of an evangelical Christian. [Cheers.] We have long been accustomed to despise American literature^ I mean as compared with our own. I have heard eminent litterateurs aay, ' Pshaw ! the Americans have no na tional literature.' It waa thought that they lived entirely on plunder — the plunder of poor slaves, and of poor British authors. [Loud cheers.] Their own worka, when they came among us, were treated either with contempt or with patronizing wonder — yes, tho * Sketch Book ' was a very good book to be an American's. To parody two linea of Pope, we ' Admired such wisdom in a Yankee |bape, And showed an Irving as they show an ape.' d-^ XXXVUl INTRODUCTORY. [Loud cheers.] And yet, strange to tell, not only of late havc we been almost deluged with editions of new and excellent American writers, but the most popular book of the century has appeared on the west side of the Atlantic. Let ua hear no more of the poverty of American brains, or the barrenness of American literature. Had it produced only Uncle Tom's Cabin, it had evaded contempt just as certainly aa Don Quixote, had there been no other product of the Spanish mind, would have rendered it forever illustrious. It is the work of a woraan, too ! None but a woman could have written it. There are in the human mind springs at once delicate and deep, which only the female genius can understand, or the female finger touch. Who but a female could have created the gentle Eva, painted the capricious and selfish Marie St. Clair, or turned loose a Topsy upon the wondering world ? [Loud and continued cheer ing.] And it is to my mind exceedingly delightful, and it must be humiliating to our opponents, to remember that the severest stroke to American slavery has been given by a woman's liand, [Loud cheers.] It was the smooth stone from the brook which, sent from Ihe hand of a youthful David, overthrew Goliath of Gath ; but I am less re minded of this than of another Incident in Scripture liistory. When the robber and oppressor of Israel, Abimelech, who had slain his brethren, was rushing against a tower, whither his enemies had fled, we are told that ' a certain woman cast a piece of a millstone upon Abimelech's head, and all to break his skull,' and that he cried hastily to the young man, his armor-bearer, and said unto him, 'Draw thy sword, and slay me, that men say not of rae, A woman slew him.' It is a parable of our pres ent position. Mrs. Stowe has thrown a piece of millstone, sharp and sfrong, at the skull of the giant abomination of her country ; he is reeling in his death pangs, and in the fury ofhis despair and shame, is crying, but crying in vain, ' Say not. A woman slew me I ' [Applause.] But the worid shall say, * A woman slew him,' or, at least, ' gave him the first blow, and drove him to despair and suicide.' [Cheers.] Lastly it is the work of an evangelical Christian ; and the piety of the book has greatly contrib uted to its power. It has forever wiped away the vile calumny, that all who love Iheir African brother hate their God and Savior. I look, indeed, on Mrs. Stowe's volume not only as a noble contribution to the cause of emancipation, but to the general cause of Christianity. It is an olive leaf in a dove's mouth, testifying that the waters of scepticism, which have rolled more fearfuUy far in America than here, — and no won der, if the Christianity of America in general is a slaveholding, man-stealing, soul- murdering Christianity — that they are abating, and that genuine liberty and evan gelical religion are soon to clasp hands, and to smile in unison on the ransomed regenerated, and truly * United States.' [Loud and reiterated applause.] " INTEODUCTORT. •xxx^x ADDRESS OE THE STUDENTS OP GLASGOW UNI VERSIT Y — April 25. Thib address ia particularly gratifying on account of its recognition of the use of intoxicating drinks as an evU analogous to slaveholding, and to be eradicated by simi lar means. The two reforms aro in all respects similar movements, to be promoted in the aaino'inanner and with the same apirit. Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stuwe. Madam: The Committee ofthe Glasgow University Abstainers* Society, repre senting nearly one hundred students, embrace the opportunity which you have so kindly afforded them, of expressing their high esteem for you, and Iheir appreciation of your noble efforta in behalf of the oiipressed. They cordially join in tho welcome with which you have been ao justly received on theaeshores, and earnesrly hope and prny that your visit may be beneficial to your own health, and tend greatly to the fur therance of Christian philanthropy. The committee havo had their previous convictions confirmed, and their hearts deeply affected, by your vivid and faithful delineations of slavery ; and they desire lo join with thousanda on both aides of the Atlantic, who offer fervent thnnksgiving to God for having endowed you wilh those rare gifts, which have qualified you for pro ducing the noblest testimony against slavery, next to tlie Bible, which the world has over received. While giving all Ihe praise to God, from whom cometh every good and perfect gift, they may bo excused for mentioning thrco charactoristics of your writings regarding slavery, which awakened thoir admiration — a sensibility befitting the anguish of suf fering millions; tho graphic power which presents to view the complex and hideous system, stripped of all its deceitful disguises ; and the moral courage that was required to encounter the monster, and drag it forth to the gaze and the execration of mankind. The cummilteo feel humbled in being called to confess and deplore, as existing among ourselves, another species of slavery, not less ruinous In its tendency, and not less criminal in the sight of God — we mean the slavery by strong drink. We feel too much ashamed of tho sad preciminonce which those nations have acquired in regard to this vice to take any offence at tho reproaches cast npon ua from across the Atlantic. Such smiting shall not break our head. We are anxious to profit by it. Yet when it is used as an argument to justify slavery, or to silence our respectful but earnest re monstrances, wo lake exception to the parallelism on which these arguments are made to rest We do not justify our slavery. We do not try to defend It from the Scri|>- tures. We do not make laws to uphold it. The unhappy victims of our slavery have all forged and riveted their own fetters. We implore them to forbear ; but, alas I in xl INTRODUCTORY. many cases without success. We invite them to he free, and offer our best assistance to undo their bonds. When a fugitive slave knocks at our door, escaping from a cruel master, we try to accost him in the spirit or in the words of a well-known philanthro pist, " Come in, brother, and get warm, and get thy breakfast." And when distin guished American philanthropists, who have done so much to undo the heavy burdens in their own land, come over to assist us, we hail their advent with rejoicing, and wel come them as benefactors. We are well aware that a corresponding feeling would be manifested in the United Slates by a portion, doubtless a large portion, of the popula tion ; but certainly not by those who justify or palliate their own oppression by a ref erence to our lamentable intemperance. We rejoice, madam, to know that as abstainers we can claim an important place, not only in your sympathies, but in your literary labors. We offer our hearty thanks for the valuable contributions you have already furnished in that momentous cause, and for the efforts of that distinguished family with which you are connected. We bear our testimony to the mighty impulse imparted to the public mind bythe extensive circulation of those raemorable sermons which your honored father gave to Europe, as well aa to America,jnore than twenty-five years ago. It will be pleasing to hira to know that the force of his arguments is felt, in British universities to the pres ent time, and that not only students in augmenting numbers, but learned professors, acknowledge their cogency and yield to their power. Permit us to add that a movement has already begun, in an infiuential quarter in England, for the avowed purpose of combining the patriotism and Christianity of these nations in a strenuous agitation for the suppression, by tlio legislature, of tbe traffic in alcoholic drinks. In conclusion, the committee have only further to express their cordial thanks for your kindness in receiving their address, and their desire and prayer that you may be long spared to glorify God, by promoting the highest interests of man ; that if it so please him, you may Uve to see the glorious fruit of your labors here on earth, and that here- after you may meet the blessed salutation, " Inasmuch as ye have done it Unto one of the least of these my brethren, ye have done it unto me." NORMAN S. KERR, Secretary. STEWART BATES, President Glasgow, 25th April, 1853. LORD MAYOR'S DINNER AT THE MANSION HOUSE, LONDON — May 2. Mb. Justice Talfourd,* having spoken of the literature of England and America, alluded to two distinguished authors then present. The one was a lady, who had shed a lustre on the literature of America, and whose works were deeply engraven • This most leamed and amiable judge recently died, while m the very act of charging n juiy. INTRODUCTORY. xli on every English heart. He spoke particularly of the consecration of so much genius to so noble a cau&e — the cause of humanity ; and expressed the confident hope that tho great American people would seo and remedy the wrongs ao vividly depicted. Tho learned judge, having paid an eloquent tribute to the works of Mr. Charles Dickens, concluded by proposing " Mr. Charles Dickens and the literature of the Anglo-Saxons." Mr. Charles Dicke na returned thanks. In referring to Mrs. II. B. Stowe, he observed that, in returning thanks, he could not forget he was in the presence ofa stranger who was the authoress of a noble book, with a noble puri)ose. But ho had no right to call hor a stranger, for she would find a welcome in every English homo. STAFFORD HOUSE RECEPTION — May 7. The Duke of Suthkrland having introduced Mra. Stowe to the assembly, tho fol lowing short address was read and presented to her by the Earl op Whaktesburt : — " Madam : I am deputed by the Duchess of Sutherland, and tho ladiea of the two committees appointed to conddct ' Tho Address from tho Women of England to the Women of America on the Subject of Slavery,' to express lhe high gratification they feel in your presence amongst them this day. " The address, which haa received considerably more than half a milUon of tho aignatures of the women of Great Britain and Ireland, thoy have already transmitted to tho United Statoa, consigning it to the care of those whom ycu have nominated as flt and zealous persona to undertake the charge In your absence. " Tho earnest doairo of those committooa, and, indeed, wo may say of the whole kingdom, Ea to cultivate tho most friendly and affectionate relations between the two countries ; and wo cannot but believe Ihat wo are fu-storing such a feeling when we avow our deep admiration of an American lady who, blessed by tlie possession of vaat geiilua and intellectual powers, enjoys tho still higher blessing, that she devotes them to tho glory of God and the temporal and eternal intereata ofthe human race." The following ia a copy of tho address to which Lord Shaftesbury makes reference : — " Tlio affectionate and Christian Address of many thousands of ff'omen of Great Britain and Ireland to their Sisters, tlic Wometi ofthe United States of America. "A common origin, n common faith, and, we sincerely believe, a common cause, urge ua at the present moment to address you on the subject of Ihat system of negro slavery which still prevails ao extensively, and even nnder kindly-disposed masters, wilh such frightfiil results, in many of the vast regions ofthe western world. " Wo will not dwell on the ordinary topics — on the progress of civUization ; on the advance of freedom every w hero ; on the rights and requirements of the nineteenth century ; but wo appeal to you very seriously to refiect, and to ask counsel of God, xlii INTRODUCTORY. how far such a state of things is in accordance with his holy word, the inalienable rights of hninortal souls, and the pure and merciful spirit ofthe Christian religion. " We do not shut our eyes to the difficulties, nay, the dangers, that might beset the immediate abolition of that long-established systera ; we see and admit the necessity of preparation for so great an event ; hut in speaking of indispensable preliminaries, we cannot be silent on those laws of your country which, in direct contravention of God's own law, instituted in the time of man's innocency, deny, in effect, to the slave the sanctity of marriage, with all its joys, rights, and obligations ; which separate, at the will of the master, the wife from tho husband, and the children from the parents. Nor can we be silent on that awful system which, either by statute or hy custora, interdicts to any race of men, or any portion of the human family, education in tho tmtlis ofthe gospel, and the ordinances ofChristianity. " A remedy appUed to these two evils alone would commence the amelioration of their sad condition. We appeal to you, then, as sisters, as wives, and as mothers, to raise your voices to your fellow-citizens, and your prayers to-God, for the removal of this affiiction from the Christian world. We do not say these things in a spirit of self-complacency, as though our nation were free from the guilt it perceives in others. We acknowledge with grief and shame our heavy share in this great sin. We acknowledge that our forefathers introduced, nay, compelled the adoption of slavery in tlioso mighty colonies. We humbly confess it before Almighty God; and it is because we so deeply feel, and so unfeignedly avow, our own complicity, that we now venture to implore your aid to wipe away our common crime, and our comraon dis honor." CONGREGATIONAL UNION — Mat 13. The Rev. John Angell Jaue9 said, " I will only for one moment revert to the resolution.* It does equal honor to the head, and the heart, and the pen of the man who drew it. Beautiful in language, Christian in spirit, noble and generous in design, it is just such a resolution as I shall be glad to see emanate from the Congregational body, and flnd its way across the Atlantic to America. Sir, we speak most power fully, when, though we speak firmly, we speak in kindness; and there is nothing iu that resolution that can, by possibility, offend the most fastidious taste of any indi vidual present, or any individual in the world, who takes the same views of the evil of slavery, in itself, as we do. [Hear, hear !] I shall not trespass long upon the attention of this audience, for we are all impatient to hear Professor Stowe speak in his own name, and in the name of that distinguished lady whom it is his honor and his happiness to call his wife. [Loud cheers.] His station and his acquirements, • This reaolution, drawn and ollercd, 1 think, by my hospitable friend, Mr. Binney, I have mislaid, and cannot flnd it. It was, however, iu character and spirit, just what Mr. James hero declares it to be. INTRODUCTORY. xHii hia usefulness in America, hia connection with our body, his representation of the Pilgrim Fathers who bore the Ught of Christianity to his own country, all make hira welcome here. [Cheers.] But he will not be surpriaed if it is not on his own account merely that we give him welcome, but alao on account of that distinguiahed woman to whom sp marked an allusion has already been made. To her, I ara sure, we shall tender no praise, except the praiae that comes to her from a higher source than ours ; from One who haa, by the testimony of her own conscience, echoing the voice from above, said to her, ' Well done, good and faithful servant.' Long, sir, may it be before the completion of the sentence ; before the welcome shall be given to her, when sho shall hear him say, 'Enter thou into the joy of thy Lord.' [Loud cheers.] But, though we praise her not, or praise with chastened language, we would aay. Madam, we do thank you from the bottom of our hearta, [Hear, hear ! and immense cheering,] for rising up to vindicate our outraged humanity ; for rising up to expound the principles of our still nobler Christianity. For my own part, it is not raerely as an exposition of the evils of slavery that makea me hail that wondroua volume to our country and to the world ; but it is tho living exposition of the principles of the goa- pel that it contains, and which will expound those principlea to many an individual who would not hear them frora our lips, nor read thera frora our pens. I raaintain, that Uncle Tom is ono of the most beautiful imbodiments of tho Christian religion that was ever presented in this world. [Loud cheera.] And it is that which makes mo take such delight in it. I rejoice that she killed him. [Laughter and cheers.] lie must die under the slave lash — he must die, the martyr of slavery, and receive tho crown of martyrdom from both worlds for hia teatimony-to tho truth. [Turning to Mrs. Stowe, Mr. James continued :] May the Lord God reward you for what you have done; wo cannot, madara— we cannot do it. [Cheers.] Wo rejoice inthe perfect assurance, in the full confidence, that the arrow which ia to pierce the system of slavery to tho heart has been shot, and shot by a female hand. Right home to the mark it will go. [Cheers.] It is true, the raonster may groan and struggle for a long while yet; but die it will; die it must — under the potency of that book. [Loud cheers.] It never can recover. It will be your satisfaction, perhaps, in this world, madam, to see the reward of your labors. Heaven grant that your life may be pro longed, until such time as you see tho reward of your labors in the striking off of the last fetter of the last slave that still pollutes the soil of your beloved country. [Cheers.] For beloved it is ; and I should do dishonor to your patriotism if I did not say it — beloved it is ; and you are prepared to echo the sentiments, by changing the terms, which we often hear in old England, and say, ^ 'America I with all thy faults I lovo thee still I * But still more intense will be my affection, and pure and devoted the ardor of my patriotism, when thia greatest of all thine ills, this darkest of the blots upon thine escutcheon, shall be wipod out forever " [Loud applause.] xliv INTRODUCTORY. The Rev. Professor Stowe rose amid loud and repeated cheers, and said, "It is extremely painful for me to speak on the subject of American slavery, and especially out of the borders of my own country. [Hear, hear !] I hardly know wliether painful or pleasurable emotions predominate, when I look upon the audience to which I speak. I feel a very near aflinity to the Congregationalists of England, and especially to the Congregationalists of London. [Cheers.] My ancestors were resi dents of London ; at least, from the time of Edward III. ; they lived in Cornhill and Leadenhall Street, and their hones lie buried in the old church of St. Andrew Under- Shaft ; and, in the year 1632, on account of their nonconiRrmity, they were obliged to seek refuge in the State of Massachusetts ; and I have always felt a love and a vener ation for the Congregational churches of England, more than for any other churches in any foreign land. [Cheers.] I can only hope, that my conduct, as a religious man and a minister of Christ, may not bring discredit upon my ancestors, and upon the honorable origin which I claim. [Hear! and cheers.] I wish to say, in the first place, that in the United States the Congregational churches, as a hody, are free from slavery. [Cheers.] I do not think that there is a Congregational church in tho United States in which a member could openly hold a slave without subjecting him self to discipline.* True, I have met with churches very deficient in their duty on this subject, and I am afraid there are members of Congregational churches who hold slaves secretly as security for debt in the Southern States. At the last great Congre gational Convention, held in the city of Albany, the churches took a step on the subject of slavery much in advance of any other great ecclesiastical body in the country, I hope it is but the beginning ofa series of measures that will eventuate in the separation of this body from all connection with slavery. [Hear, hear !] I am extensively acquainted with the United States ; 1 have lived in different sections of them ; I am familiar with people of all classes, and it is my soleran conviction, that nine tenths of the people feel on the subject of slavery as you do;t [cheers ;] per haps not so intensely, for familiarity with wrong deadens the conscience ; but their convictions are altogether as yours are ; and in the slaveholding states, and among slaveholders themselves, conscience is against the system. [Cheers.] There is no legislative control cf the subject of slavery, except by slaveholding legislators them selves. Congress has no right to do any thing in the premises. They violated the constitution, as I believe, in passing the Fugitive Slave Act. [Cheers.] I do not believe they had any right to pass It. [Hear, hear !] I stand here not as the repre sentative of any body whatever. I only represent myself, and give you my individual convictions, that have heen produced hy a long and painful connection with the • I have been told since my retura, Ihat there are eomn slaveholding Congreeational churchea in thesouth; but they have no connection with our New England churches, and certainly are not generally known aa Congregationalists distinct frdm the I^resbyterians. t This has always been supposed and claimed in the United States. Now the time has come to test Its truth. If there is this antislavery feeling in nine tenths ofthe people, the impudent iniquity of the Nebraska bill will call it forth. INTRODUCTORY. xlv subject. [Hear, hear '.] Aa to the resolution, I approve it entirely. Its sentiment and its spirit are my own. [Cheers.] At the close of the revolutionary war, which separated tlie colonies from the mother country, every state of the Union waa a slaveholding state; every colony was a slaveholding colony; and now we hava aeventcen free states. [Cheers.] Slavery has been abolished in one half of the original colonies, and it waa declared that there should be neither slavery nor the slave trade in any territory north and west of the Ohio River; so that all that part is entirely free from actual active participation in this curae, laying open a free territory that, I think, must be ten timea larger in extent than Great Britain. [Loud cheers.] The State of Massachusetts was the first in which slavery ceased. How did it cease? By an enactment of the legislature ? Not at all. They did not feel there was any necessity for such an enactment. The Bill of Rights declared, that all mon were born free, and that they had an equal right to the pursuit of happiness and the acqui sition of property. In contradiction to that, there were slaves in every part of Massa chusetts ; and some philanthropic individual advised a slavo to bring into court an action fur wages against his master during all his time of servitude. Tho action was brought, and the court decided that the negro was entitled to wages during the whole period. [Cheers.] That put an end to slavery in Massachusetts, and that decision ought lo have put an end to slavery in all states of the Union, because the law applied to all. They abolished slavery in all the Northern States — in Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Connecticut, and Rhode Island ; and it was expected that the whole of the states would follow the example. When I waa a child, I never heard a lisp in defence of slavery, [lloar, hear, hear!] Every body condemned it; all looked upon It aa a groat curse, and all regarded it aa a temporary evil, which would soon molt away before the advancing light of truth. [Hear, hear '.] But still thero waa great injustice dono to those who had been slaves. Every body roj^arded tho colored race as a degraded race; they were looked upon as inferior; they wero not upon terms of social equality. The only thing approaching it was, that the colored children attended the achoola with Ihe white children, and took their places on tho same forms; but in all other respects thoy were excluded from tho common advan tages and privileges of society. In the places of worship they were seated by thom- aelves ; and that difference alwaya existed till these discussions came up, and they began to feel mortified at their situation ; and hence, wherever they could, they had worship by theraaelves, and began to build placea of worship for themselves; and now you will scarcely find a colored person occupying a seat in our places of worship. This stain slill remains, and it is but a type of the feeling that has been generated by slavery. Thia ought to be known and understood, and this is Just one of the out- droppings of thai inward feeling Ihat still is doing great injustico to the colored race ; but there are symptoms of even that giving way. " I suppose you aU remember Dr. Pennington — [cheers] — a colored minister of grea* talent and excellence — [Hear, hear !] — though bom a slave, and for many years was a VOL. I. e xlvi INTRODUCTORY. fugitive slave. [Hear, hear.] Dr. Pennington is a raember of tho presbytery of New York ; and within the last six months he lias been chosen moderator of that presbytery. [Loud cheers.] He has presided in that capacity at the ordination ofa minister to one of the most respectable churches of that city. So far so good — we rejoice in it, and we hope that the same sense of justice which has brought about that change, ao that a colored man can be moderator ofa Presbytery in the city of New York, will go on, till full justice is done to these people, and until the grievous wrongs to which they have been subjected will be entirely done away. [Cheers.] But still, what is the aspect which the great American nation now presents to the Christian world ? Most sorry am I to say it; but it is just this — a Christian republic upholding slavery — tho only great nation on earth that doea uphold it — a great Christian republic, which, so far as the white people are concerned, is the fairest and most prosperous nation on earth — that great Christian republic using all the power of ita government to secure and to shield this horrible institution of negro slavery from aggression ; and there is no sub ject on whicli the govemment is so sensitive — there is no institution which it mani fests such a determination to uphold. [Hear, hear !] And then the most melancholy fact of all is, that the entire Christian church in that republic, with few exceptions, are silent, or are apologists for thia great wrong, [Hear, hear !] It makes my heart bleed to think of it; and there are many praying and weeping in secret places over this curse, whose voices are not heard. There is such a pressure on the subject, it is so mixed up with other things, that raany sigh over it who know not what to say or what to do in reference to it. And what kind of slavery is it ? Is it like the servitude under the Mosaic law, which is brought forward to defend it ? Nothing like it Let rae read you a little extract from a correspondent of a New York paper, writing from Paris. I wiU read it, because it is so graphic, and because I wish to show from what sources you may best ascertain the real nature of Araerican slavery. The commercial news papers, published by slaveholders, in slaveholding states, will give you a far more graphic idea of what slavery actually is, than you have from Uncle Tom's Cabin ; for there the most horrible features are softened. This writer says, * And now a word on American representatives abroad. I have already made my complaint of the trou bles brought on Americans here by that " incendiary " book of Mrs. Stowe's, especially ofthe difficulty we have in raaking the French understand our institutions. But there was one partially satisfactoiy way of answering their questions, hy saying that Uncle Tora's Cabin was a romance. And this would have served the purpose pretty well, and spared our blushes for the model republic, if the slaveholders themselves would only withhold their testimony to the truth of what we were willing to let pass as fic tion. But they are worse than Mrs. Stowe hei-self, and their writings are getting to bo quoted here quite extensively. The JHonitcur of to-day, and another widely-circulated journal that lies on my table, both contain extracts from those extremely incendiary periodicals. The JVational Intelligencer, of February 11, and Tlte JV*. O. Picayune, of Feb ruary 17. The first gives an auctioneer's advertisement ofthe sale of" a negro boy of INTRODUCTORY. ^ 'xlvii i " eighteen years, a negro girl aged sixteen, three horses, saddles, bridles, wheelbarrows,'^' Sec. Then follows an account ofthe sale, which reads very much like the description, in the dramatic /cuiHetorw here, of a famous scene in the Case dc VOncle Tom, aa played at the Ambigu Comique. The second extract is the advertisement of " our es teemed fellow-citizen, Mr. M. C. G.," who presents his " respects to the inhabitantsoT O. and the neighbouring parishes," and " informs them that he keeps a fine pack of doga trained to catch negroes," &c. It is painful to think that there are men in our country who will write, and that there aro others found to publish, such tales as these about our peculiar institution. I put it to Mr. G., if he thinks it is patriotic. Aa a " fellow- citizen," and in his privato relations, G. may bo an estimable man, for aught I know, a Christian and a scholar, and an ornament to the social circlea of O. and the neigh boring parishes. But as an author, G. becomes public property, and a fair theme for criticism ; and in that capacity, I say G. is publiahing the aharae of his country. I call him G., without the prefatory Mister, not from any personal disrespect, much aa I am grieved at his course as a writer, but because he ia now breveted for immortality, and goes down to posterity, like other immortals, without titular prefix.' [Cheers.] Now, hero is where you get tho true features of slavery. What is the reason that the church es, as a general thing, aro silent — that some of them are apologists, and that eome, in the extreme Southern States, actually defend slavery, and say il ia a good inaUtution, and sanctioned by Scripture.^ It is simply this — the overwhelming power of the slavo syatem; and whence comes that overwhelming power? It comes from ita great influ enco in tho commercial world. [Hear!] Until the time that cotton became so exten sively an article of export, there waa not a word said in defence of slavery, as far aa I know, in the United Slates. In 1818, the Presbyterian General A-^-cmbly passed reso lutions unanimously on the aubject of slavery, to which this resolution ia mildness it self; and not a man could bo found to aay one word against it. But cotton became a moat valuable article of export. In one form and another, it became intimately asso ciated with the commercial affairs ofthe whole country. The nonhcrn nianufaclurera were intimately connected wilh thia cotton trade, and more than two thirds raised in the United States haa been sold in Great Britain ; and it ia thia cotton trade fliat supports the whole syatem. That you may rely upon. The sugar and rice, so far as the United Slates aro concerned, aro but small intoresla. The system is supported by this cotton trade, and within two days I have seen an article written with vigor in the Charleston Mercury, a southern paper of great influence, saying, that the slaveholders are becom ing isolated, by the force of public opinion, from the rest of the worid. They are be ginning to be regarded as inhuman tyrants, and the slaves the victiras of their cruelty; but, says the writer, Just so long as you take our cotton, we shall have our slaves. Now, you are as really involved in this matter as we aro — [Hear, hear I] — and if you have no other right to speak on the subject, you have a right to speak from being your selves very aciivo participators in lhe wrong. You have a great deal of feeling on the subject, honorable and generous feeling, I know — an earnest, philanthropic. Christian xlviii INTRODUCTORY. feeling; but if you have nothing to do, that feeUng will all evaporate, and leave an apathy behind. Now, here is something to be done. It may be a smaU beginning, hut, as you go forward. Providence will develop other plans, and the more you do, the further you will see. I am happy to know that a beginning has been made. There are indications that a way has been so opened in providence that this exigency can be met. Within the last few years, the Chinese have begun to emigrate to the western parta of the United States. They wiU maintain themselves on small wages; and wherever they corae into actual competition with slave labor, it cannot compete with them. Very many of the slaveholders have spoken of this as a very re markable indication. If slaveiy had been confined to the original slave states, as it was intended, slavery could not have lived. It was the intention that it should never go beyond those boundaries. Had this been the case, it would increase the number of slaves so much that they would have been valueless as articles of property. I must say this for America, that the slaves increase in the slave states faster than the white people; and it shows that their physical condition is better than was that of the slaves at the West Indies, or in Cuba, where the number actuaUy diminished. We must have more slave territories to make our slaves valuable, and there was the origin of that iniquitous Mexican war, whereby was added the vast territory of Texas ; and thon it was the intention to make California a slave state ; but, I am happy to say, it has been received into the Union as a free state, and God grant it may continue so. [Hear, hear !] What has been the effect of this expansion of slave territory ? It has doubled the value of slaves. Since I can remember, a strong slave man would sell for about four hundred or six hundred dollars — that is, about one hundred pounds ; but now, during the present season, I have known instances in which a slave man has been sold for two hundred and thirty pounds. There are more slaves raised in Virginia and Mary land than they can use in those states in labor, and, therefore, they sell them at one hundred, two hundred, or three hundred pounds, as the case may be, for cash. All that Mrs. Tyler intimates in that letter about slavery in America, and the impression it is calculated and intended to convey, that they treat their slaves so well, and do not separate their families, and so forth, is all mere humbug. [Laughter and cheers.] It is well known that Virginia has more profit from selling negroes than from any other source. The great sources of profit are tobacco and negroes, and they derive more from the sale of negroes than tobacco. You see the temptation thia givea to avarice. Supjwse there is a man with no property, except fifteen or twenty negro men, whom he can sell, each one for two hundred pounds, cash ; and he has as many negro women, whom he can sell for one hundred and fifty pounds, cash, and the children for one hundred pounds each: here is a temptation to avarice; and it is calculated to sUence the voice of conscience ; and it is the expansion of the slave territory, and the immense mercantile value of llie cotton, that has brought so pow erful an influence to bear onthe United States in favnr of slavery. [Hear, hear .] Now, as to free labor coming into competition with slave labor : You will see, that INTRODUCTORY. xllX when the price of slaves is so enormous, it requires au immense outlay to stock a plan tation. A good plantation would take two hundred or three hundred hands. Now, say for every hand employed on thia plantation, the man raust pay on an average two hundred pounds, which ia not exorbitant at the present tirae. If he has to pay at thia rate, what an immense outlay of capital to begin with, and how great the inter est on that Bum continually accumulating ! And then there is the constant exposure to loss. These plantation negroes are very careless of Ufe, and oflen cholera gets among them, and sweeps off twenty-five or thirty hi a few days; and then there is the underground railroad, and, with all the precautions that can bo taken, it continues to work. And now you see what an immense risk, and exposure to loss, and a vast out lay of capital, there ia in connection with this system. But, if a man takes a cotton farm, and can employ Chinese laborers, he can get them for one or two shillings a day, and they will do the work as well, if not belter than negroes, and there is no outlay or risk. [Hear, hear!] If good cotton fields can be obtained, as they may in time, hore is an opening which will tend to weaken the slave syatem. If Christians will inves tigate thia subject, and if philanthropists generally will pursue these inquiries in an honest spirit, it ia nol long before we shall see a movement throughout the civilized world, and tho upholdera of slavery will feel, where they feel most acutely — in their pockets. Until something of this kind is done, I despair of accomplishing any great amount of good by simple appeals to the conscience and right principle. There are a few wlio will liston to conscience and a sense of right, but there are unhappily only a few. I suppose, though you have good Christians hero, you have many who will put thoir consciences in their pockets. [Hear, hear!] I have known cases of this kind. There was a young lady in tho Stato of Virginia who was left an orphan, and she had no property except four negro slaves, who were of great commercial value. She felt that slavery waa wrong, and she could not hold thom. She gave them their freedom — [cheera] — and aupported herself by teaching a small school. [Cheera.] Now, not withstanding all the unfavorable things wo see — notwithstanding the riark cloud Ihat hangs over the country, there are hopeful indications that God has not forgotten us, and that he will carry on this work tiU it Is accomplished. [Hear!] But it will bo a long while first, I foar ; and we must pray, and labor, and persevere; fur he Ihat per severes to lhe ond, and he only, receives the crown. Now, there are very few in the United States who undertake to defend slavery, and say it is right. But the great ma jority, even of professors of religion, unite to shield it from aggression. ' It is the law of tho land,' they say, ' and we raust submit to it.' It seems a strange doctrine to come from tho lips ofthe descendants of Uie Puritans, tbo.<)e who resisted the law of the land because those lawa were against their conscience, and finally went over to that new world, in order that Ihey might enjoy the rights of conscience. How would it liavo been with the primitive church if this doctrine had prevailed ? There never would have been any Christian church, for that was against the laws of the land. In regard to the distribution of the Bible, in many states the laws prohibit the teaching of 1 INTRODUCTORY. slaves, and the distribution of the Bible is not allowed among them. The American Bible Society does not itself take the responsibility of this. It leaves the whole matter to the local societies in the several states, and it is the local societies that take the respon sibility. Well, why should we obey the law ofthe land in South Carolina on this sub ject, and disobey the law of the land in Italy? But our missionary societies and Bible societies send Bibles to other parts of the world, and never ask if itis contrary to the law of these lands , and if it is. they push it all the more zealously. They send Bibles to Italy and Spain, and yet the Bible is prohibited by those governments. The American Tract Society and the American Sunday School Union allow none of their issues to utter a syllable against slavery. They expunge even from their European books every passage of this kind, and excuse themselves by the law and tbe public sentiment. So are the people taught There has been a great deal said on the subject of influence from abroad; but those who talk in that way interfered with the persecution of the Madiai, and remonstrated with the Tuscan govemment. We have had large meetings on the subject in New York, and those who refuse the Bible to the slave took part in thai meeting, and did not seem to think there was any inconsistency in their conduct. "The Christian church knows nn distinction of nations. In thaf church there is neither Greek nor Jew, Barbarian, Scythian, bond nor free, but all are one in Clrrist ; and whatever affects one part of the body affects the other, and the whole Christian church every where is bound to help, and encourage, and rebuke, as the case may re quire. The Christian church is every where bound to ita corresponding branch in every other country ; and thus you have, not only a right, but it is your duty, to consid er the case of the American slave with just the sarae interest with which you consider the cause of the native Hindoo, when you send out your missionaries there, or witli which you consider Madagascar ; and to express yourselves in a Christian spirit, and in a Christian way continually, till you see that your admonitions have had a suitable influence. I do not doubt what you say, that you will receive with great pleasure men who come from the United States to promote the cause of temperance, and you may liave the opportunity'of showing your sincerity before long; andthe manner in which you receive them will have avery important bearing on the subject of slavery. [Cheers.] I have not the least doubt you will hail with joy those who will come across the At lantic to advance and promote still more earnestly those noble institutions, the ra^^ed schools and the ragged churches. [Cheers.] The men who want to do good at home are the men who do good abroad ; and the same spirit of Christian liberality that leads you to feel for the American slave will lead you to care for your own poor, and those in adverse circumstances in your own land. I would ask, Is it possible, then, that ad monition and reproof given in a Christian spirit, and by a Christian heart, can fail to produce a right influence on a Christian spirit and a Christian heart? I think the thing is utterly impossible; and that if such admonitions as are contained in the resolution conceived in such a spirit, and so kindly expressed — if they are not received in a Christian spirit, it is because the Chriatian spirit has unhappily fled. I can answer for INTRODUCTORY. ll myself, at least, and many of my brethren, that it will be so ; and, so far from desiring you to withhold your expressions on account of any bad feeling that they might excite, I wish you to reiterate thein, and reiterate them in the same spirit in which they are given in this resolution ; for I believe that these expressions of impatience and petu lance represent the feelings of very few. Who is it that always speaks first ? The angry man, and it comes out at once ; but the wise man keeps it in till afterwards ; and it will not be long before you will find, that whatever you say in a Christian spirit will be responded to on tho other aide of the water. Now, I believe our churches have neglected their duty on this subject, and are still neglecting it. Many do not seem to know what their duty is. Yet I believe them to be good, conscientious men, and men who will do their duty when thoy know what it is. Take, for examjile, tho American Board of Foreign Missions. There are not better men, or moro conscientious men, on Ihe face of Ihe earth, or men more sincerely dewiroua of doing their duty ; yet, in some things, I believe they are mistaken. I think it would he better to throw over the very few churclios connected with the Board which are slaveholding, than to endeavor to sus tain them, and to have all this pressure of responsibiliiy slill upon them. But yet they are pursuing the course which they ccmscienliously think to bo right. Christian admoniiiun wilt not be lost upon them.* I will say the same of the American Homo Missionary Society. They have little to do with slavery, as I have already remarked. Many think they ought not to say any thing upon the sub ject, bcc;iuso they cannot do ao without weakening their influence. But then this qiiealion comes: If good men do not speak, who will?— [Hear, hear !] — and, as our Savior said in regard to the children that shouted, Ilosannah, ' If these shciild hold their peace, the stones would imniedi.itely cry out.' It is in C(jn-;oi|ucnce of their si lence that stones havo bcgnn to cry out, and they rebuke the ailcm-o and apathy of good men ; and this is made an argument ngainst religion, which haa had effect with unthinking people ; ao I think it absolutely necessary that men in the church, on tliat very ground, ahould speak out thoir mind on thia great subject at whatever riak — [cheers] — anil Ihey must lake the consequoncea. In due time God will prosper tho right, and in due time the fetters will fall from every slave, and the black man will have the same privileges aa tho white. [Applause.]" * Eight years ago I conscientiously approved and zealously defended this course of tlie Amer- icnn Board. Subsequent events ihavo satisfied mc, that, in the present circiiniBtances of our country, making concessioua to slaveholders, however slightly, and with whatever motives, even if not wrong in principle, is productive of no good. It does but strengthen slavery, aud makuQ its demands still more exorbitant, and neutralizes the power of gospel truth. lii INTRODUCTORY. ROYAL HIGHLAND SCHOOL SOCIETY DINNER, AT THE FREEMASON'S TAVERN, LONDON — May 14. The Chairman, Sih Archibald Alison, gave "The health of her Grace the Duchess of Sutherland, and the noble patronesses of the Society," which was received with great applause. It was extremely gratifying, he said, to find alady, belonging to one of the most ancient and noblest families of the kingdom, displaying so great an interest in their institution. [Cheers.] Not Ihe least of their obligations to her Grace was the opportunity she had given them to offer their respects to a lady, remarkable alike for her genius and her philanthropy, who had come from across the Atlantic, and who, by her philanthropic exertions in the cause of negro emancipation, had enlisted the feel ings and called forth the sympathies of thousands and tens of thousands on both sides of theocean. [Tremendous cheering.] She had shown that the genius, and talents, and energies, which such a cause inspired, had created a species of freemasonry throughout the world ; it had set aside nationalities, and bound two nations together which the broad Atlantic could not sever; and created a union of sentiment and pur pose which he trusted would continue till the great work of negro emancipation had been finally accoraplished. [Cheers.] Professor Stowe responded to the allusion which had been made to Mrs. Stowe, and was greeted with hearty applause. He said he had read in his childhood the writings of Sir Walter Scott, and thus became intensely interested in all that pertained to Scotland. [Cheers.] He had read, more recently, his Life of Napoleon, and also Sir Archibald Alison's History of Europe. [Protracted cheers.] But he certainly never expected to be called upon to address such an assembly as that, and under such cir cumstances. Nothing could exceed the astonishment which was felt by himself and Mrs. Stowe at the cordiality of their reception in every part of Great Britain, from persons of every rank in life. [Cheers.] Every body seemed to have read her book. [Hear, hear! and loud cheers.] Everyone seemed to have been deeply interested, [cheers,] and disposed to return a full-hearted homage to the writer. But all she claimed credit for was truth, and honesty, and earnestness of purpose. He had only to add that he cordially thanked the Royal Highland School Society for the kindness which induced them to invite him and Mrs. Stowe to be present that evening. [Cheers.] The work in which the society was engaged was one that they both held dear, and in which they felt the deepest interest, inasmuch as that object was to promote the edu cation of youth among those whose poverty rendered them unable to provide the means of education for themselvea. [Hear, hear !] In such worka as that they had theraaelves for most of their lives been diligently engaged. [Cheers.] INTEODUCTORT. Iiii ANTISLAVERY SOCIETY, EXETEK HALL— INIay 16. Tme Earl of Shaftesburv, who, on coming forward to open the proceedings, was received with much applause, spoke aa follows: "We are assembled here this night to protest, with the utmost intensity, and with all the force which language can com mand, against Ihe greatest wrong that the wickedness of man ever perpetrated upon his fellow-man— [loud cheers]— a wrong which, great in aU ages— great in heathen times- groat In all countries — great even under heathen sentiments — is indescriba bly monstrous in Christian daya, and exercised as it is, not unfrequently, over Christian people, [Hear !] It ia aurely remarkable, and exceedingly disgraceful to a century and a generation so boastful of ita progress, and of the institution of so many Bible so- cieticf, with so many professions and preachments ofChristianity — with so many dec larations of the spiritual value of man before God — after so many declarations of this equality of every man in the sight of his fellow-man — that we should be assembled here this evening to protest against the conduct of a mighty and a Protestant people, who, in the spirit of the Romish Babylon, which they had renounced, resort to her most abominable practices — making merchandise of the temples of God, and traffick ing in the bodies and souls of men. [Cheers.] We are not here to prpclaim and main tain our own immaculate purity. We aro not hero to stand forward and say, * I ara holier than thou.' We have'confossed, and that openly, and freely, and unreservedly, our share, our heavy share, in by-gone days, of vast wickedness ; we have, we declare it again, and we had our deep remorse. We sympathize with the preponderating bulk of the American people; we acknowledge and we feel tho difficulties which besot them; we rejoice and wo believe in Iheir good intontiona ; but we havo no patience — I at least have none — with those professed loaders, be they political or be they cleri cal, who mislead Ihe people — with those who, blasphemously resting slavery on the Holy Scriptures, desecrate their pulpita by the promulgation of doctrinea better suited fo the pynagoguo of Satan — [cheers] — nor with that gentleman who, the greatest oflicor of the greatest republic in the whole world, in pronouncing an inaugural ad dress to tho assembled multitudes, maintains the institution of slavery ; and — will you believe it?- invokes Ihe Almighty God to maintain those rights, and thus sanction tho violation of his own laws!— [Cries of 'Shame!'] This is, indeed, a dismal pros pect for those who tremble at human power; but we have Ihis consolation : Is it not said that, ' When the enemy shall come in like a flood, the Spirit of the Lord shall lift up a standard a^-ainst him ? ' [Hear, hear !] He has done so now, and a most won derful and almost inspired protector has arisen for the suffering of this much injured race. [Loud cheers.] Feeble as her sex, but irresistible as viilne and as truth, she will prove to her adversary, and to ours, that such boasting shall not be for his honor, * for the Lord will sell Sisera into the handa of a woman.' [Hoar, hear ! and loud cheers.] liv INTRODUCTORY. Now, I ask you this : Is there one ofyou who believes that the statements of that mar vellous book to which we have alluded present an exaggerated picture?— [Treraen dous cries of • No, no.'] Do Ihey not know, say what they will, that the truth is not fully stated? [Hear, hear!] The reality is worse than the fiction. [Hear, hear!] But, apart from this, there is our solemn declaration that the vileness ofthe principle is at once exhibited in the mere notion of slavery, and the atrocities of it are the natural and almost inevitable consequences of the profession and exercise of absolute and irre sponsible power. [Hear, hear !] But do you doubt the fact ? Look to, the document. I will quote to you from this book. I have never read any thing more strikingly iUus trative or condemnatory of the system we are here to denounce. Here is the judgment pronounced by oue of the judges in North CaroUna. It is impossible to read this judg ment, however terrible the conclusion, without feeling convinced that the man who pronounced it waa a man ofa great mind, and, in spite ofthe law he was bound to ad minister, a man of a great heart. [Hear, hear !] Hear what he says. The case waa this : It was a ' case of appeal,' in which the defendant had hired a slave woman for a year. During this time she committed some slight offence, for which the defend ant undertook to chastise her. After doing so he shot at her as she was running away., The question then arose, was he justified in using that amount of coercion? and whether the privilege of shooting was not confined to the actual proprietor? The case was argued at some length, and the court, in pronouncing judgment, began by deplor ing that any judge should ever be called upon to decide such a case, but he had to ad minister the law, and not to make it. The judge said, ' With whatever reluctance, therefore, the court is bound to express the opinion, that the dominion over a slave in Carolina has not, as it has been argued, any analogy with the authority of a tutor over a pupil, of a master over an apprentice, or of a parent over a child. The court does not recognize these applications. There is no likeness between thera. They are in oppo sition to each other, and there is an impassable gulf between them. The difference is that which exists between freedom and slavery — [Hear, hear !] — and a greater differ ence cannot be imagined. In the one case, the end in view is the happiness of the youth, born to equal rights with tbe tutor, whose duty it is to train the young to useful ness by moral and intellectual instruction. If they will not sufiice, a moderate chas tisement maybe administered. But with slavery it is far otherwise.' Mark these words, for Ihey contain the whole thing. ' But with slavery it is far otherwise. The end is the profit of the master, and the poor object is one doomed, in his own person, and in his posterity, to Uve without knowledge, and without capacity to ^tain any thing which he may call his own. He has only to labor, that another may reap the fruits,' [Hear, hear !] Mark ! this is from the sacred bench of justice, pronounced by one of the first intellects in America • * There is nothing else which can operate to produce the effect; the power ofthe master must be absolute, to render the submission of the slave perfect. [Hear, hear !] It is inherent in the relation of master and slave; 'and then he adds those never-to-be-forgotten words, 'We cannot allow the INTRODUCTORY. Iv right of the master to come under discussion in the courts of justice. The slave must be made sensible that there ia no appeal from his master, and that his master's power is in no instance usurped ; that these rights are conferred by the laws of man, at least, if not by the law of God.' [Loud cries of * Shame, shame !'] This is the mode in which we are to regard these two classes of beings, both created by the same God, and both redeemed by the same Savior as ourselves, and destined to the same immortality! The judgment, on appeal, was reversed; but, God be praised ; there is another appeal, and that appeal we make to the highest of all imaginable courts, where God is the judge, where mercy is the advocate, and where unerring truth will pronounce the decision ! [Protracted cheering.] There are some who are pleased to tell us that there ia an inferiority in the race! That is untrue. [Cheers.] But we are not here to inquire whether our black brethren will become Shakspeares or Her- Bchels. [Hear, hear!] I ask, are they immorlal beings? [Great applause.] Do our adversaries say no? I ask Ihem, then, to show me one word in the handwriting of God which haa thua levelled them with the brute beasts. [Hear, hear!] Lei us boar in mind those words of our blessed Savior — ' Whosoever shall offend one of these Uttle ones who believe in me, it were better that a millstone wore hanged about his neck, and that he were cast into the depths of the sea.' [Loud cheers.] Now, then, what la our duty ? Is it to stand still? Yes! when we receive the command from the same authority that said to the sun, Stand over Gibeon ! [Loud cheers.] Then, and not UU then, will we stand sUU. [Renewed cheers.] Are we to Usten to the craven and miserable talk about ' doing more harm than good * ? [Hear, hear !] This waa an argument which would have chocked every noble enterprise which has been undertaken aince the world began. It would havo strangled Wilberforce, and chocked the very Exodus itself from the house of bondage in Egypt. [Hear, bear !] Out on all such craven talk ! [Cheers.] Slavery ia a myatery, and ao ia all sin, and wo must fight againat it; and, by the blessing of God, wo vvill. [Loud cheers.] We niiist pray to Almighty God, that wo and our American brethren — who seem now to be tho sole depositories of the Protestant truth, and of civil and religious liberty, may be as ono. [Cheers.] We are feeble, if hostile; but, if united, we are Ihe arbiters of Ihe world. [Cheers.] Let us join together for the temporal and spiritual good of our race." Professor Stowe then came forward, and was received with unbounded demon- slrationa of applause. When the cheering had subsided, he said " he felt utteriy ex hausted by the heat and excitement of the meeting, and should therefore be glad to bo excused from saying a single word ; however, he would utter a few thoughts. The following was tlie resolution which lie had to submit to the meeting: * That with a view to the correction of public sentiment on this subject In slaveholding communities, it is of the first imporiance that those who are eamest in condemnation of slavery should observe consistency ; and, therefore, that it is their duty to encourage the de velopment of the natural resources of countries where slavery does not exist, and the soil of which is adapted to Ihe growth of products — especially of cotton — now partial- Ivi INTRODUCTORY. ly or chiefiy raised by slave labor; and though the extinction of slavery is less to be expected from a diminished demand for slave produce than from the moral effects ofa steadfast abhorrence of slavery itself, and from an unwavering and consistent opposi tion to it, this meeting would earnestly recommend, that in all cases where it is prac ticable, a decided preference should be given to the products of free labor, by all who entei their protest against slavery, so that at least they themselves may be clear of any participation in the guilt of the system, and be thus morally strengthened in their con demnation of it.' At the close of the revolutionary war, all the states of Araerica were slaveholding states. In Massachusetts, sorae benevolent white man caused a slave to try an action for wages in a court of justice. He succeeded, and the conse quence was, that slavery fell in Massachusetts. It was then universally acknowledged that slavery was a sin and shame, and ought to be abolished, and it was expected that it would be soon abolished in every state of the Union. Mr. Jefferson, Mr. Madison, and Benjamin Franklin would not allow Ihe word • slave ' to occur in the constitu tion , and Mr. Edwards, from the pulpit, clearly and broadly denounced slavery. And when he (Professor Stowe) was a boy, in Massachusetts the negro children were ad mitted to the same schools with the whites. Although there was some prejudice of color then, yet it waa not so strong as at present. In 1818, the General Assembly of the Presbyterian church in the United States passed resolutions against slavery far stronger than those passed at the meeting this evening, and every man, north and south, voted for them. What had caused the change ? It was the profitableness of the cotton Irade. It was that which had spread the chains of slavery over the Union, ' and silenced the church upon the subject He had been asked, what right had Great Britain to interfere ? Why, Great Britain took four fifths of the cotton oi Amer ica, and therefore sustained four fifths ofthe slavery. That gave Ihem a right to inter fere. [Hear, hear!) He admitted that our participation in Ihe guilt was not direct, but without the cotton trade of Great Britain slavery would have been abolished long ago, for the American manufacturers consumed but one fifth of all the cotton grown in the country. The conscience of the cotton growers was talked of; hut had the cotton consumer no conscience ? [Cheers.] It seemed to him that the British public had more direct access to the consumer than to the grower of cotton." Professor Stowe then read an extract from a paper published in Charleston, South Carolina, showing the influence of the American cotton trade on the slavery question. " The price of cot ton regulated the price of slaves, who were now worth an average of two hundred pounds. A cotton plantation required in some cases two hundred, and in others four hundred slaves. This would give an idea of the capital needed. With free labor there was none of this ouUay— there was none of those losses by the cholera, and the 'underground railroad,' to which the slave owners were subjected. [Hear, hear!] The Chinese had come over in large numbers, and could be hired for small wages, on which they managed to live well in their way. If people would encourage free grown cotton, that would be the strongest appeal they pould make to the slaveholder. There INTRODUCTORY. Ivli were throe ways of abolishing slavery. Firat, by a bloody revolution, which few would approve. [Hear, hear!] Secondly, by persuading slaveholders ofthe wrong they commit; but this would have little effect so long as they bought their cotton. [Hear, hear !] And the third and most feasible way was, by making slave labor un profitable, as coinpared with free labor, [Hear !] When the Cliinese first began lo emigrate to California, it was predicted that slavery would be 'run out' that way. He hoped it might be so. [Cheers.] The reverend gentleman then reverted to his previous visit to this country, seventeen years ago, and described the rapid strides which had been made in the work of educaUon — especially tbe educaUon of the poor— in the interval. It was most gratifying to him, and more easUy seen by him than it would be by us, with whom the change had been gradual. He had been told in America that the English abolitionists were prompted by jealousy of America, but he had found that tobe false. The Christian feeling which had dictated efforts on behalf of ragged schools and factory chUdren, and the welfare of the poor and distressed of every kind, had caused the same Christian hearta to throb for the Araerican slave. It was that Chriatian philanthropy which received all mon as brethren — children of the samo father, and therefore he had great hopes of success. [Cheers.]" My remarks on the cotton business of Britain were made with entire sincerity, and a single-hearted desire to promote the antislavery cauae. They are sentiments which I had long entertained, and which I had taken every opportunity to express with the utmost treedom from the time of my firat landing in Liverpool, the great cotton mart of England, and where, ifany whore, they might be supposed capable of giving offence ; yet no excepUon was taken to them, so far as I know, till delivered in Exeter Hall. There they wore heard by some with surprise, and by others with extreme displeas ure. I waa even called proslavery, and ranked with Mrs. Julia Tyler, for frankly speaking the truth, under circumatancea of groat temptation to ignore it. StiU I have the satisfaction ol knowing that both my views and my motives were rightly underatood and properly appreciated by largo-hearted and clear-headed phllan- tliropista, like the Earl of Shaftesbury and Joseph Sturge, and very fairly represented and commented upon by such religioua and secular papers as the Christian Times, the British Banner, the London Daily News and Chronicle ; and even the thundering politi' eoZ Times seemed disposed, in a half-sarcastic way, to admit that I was moro than half right. But it is most satisfactory of all to know that the best of the British abolitionists are now acting, promptly and efficiently, in accordance with those views, and are deter mined to develop the resources of tho British empire for the production of cotton by free labor. The thing is practicable, and not of very difficult accomplishment. It is furthermore absolutely essential to the success of the antislavery cause ; for now the great practical leaiilng argument for slavery is, WltJiout slavery you can kave no cotton, and cotton you must and will have. The latest work that I have read in defence of sia- vor.. I. / Iviii INTRODUCTOEY. very (Uncle Tom in Paris, Baltimore, 1854) says, (pp. 56-7,) " Of the cotton which sup plies the wants of the civUized world, the south produces 86 per cent. ; and witliout slave labor experience has shewn that the cotton plant cannot he cultivated." How the matter is viewed by sagacious and practical minds in Britain, is clear from the following sentences, taken from the National Era : — "CoTToK IS Kmo. — Charles Dickens, in a late number of his Household Words, after enumerating the striking facts of cotton, says, — "'Let any social or physical convulsion visit the United States, and England would feel the shock from Land's End to Jolm o' Groat's. The lives of nearly two millions of our countrymen are dependent upon the cotton crops of America ; their destiny may be said, without any sort of hyperbole, to hang npon a thread. " ' Should any dire calaraity befall the land of cotton, a thousand of our merchant ships would rot idly in dock ; ten thousand mills must stop their busy looms, and two mil lion mouths would starve for lack of food to feed thera.' " How many non-slaveholders elsewhere are thus interested in the products of slaves ? Is it not worthy the attention of genuine philanthropists to inquire whether cotton can not be profitably cultivated by free labor? " S0IK:^E at WILLIS'S ROOMS — Mat 25. Mr. Joseph Sturge took the chair, announcing that he did so in the absence of the Earl of Shaftesbury, who was prevented from attending. It waa announced that letters had been received from the Duke of Newcastle and the Earls of Carlisle and Shaftesbury, expressing their sympathy with the object of the meeting, and their regret at being unable to attend. The Secretary, Samuel Bowley, Esq., of Gloucester, then read the address, which. was as follows : — "= Madam : It is with feelings of the deepest interest that the committee of the British and Foreign Antislavery Society, on behalf of themselves and of the society tliey repre sent, welcome the gifted authoress of Uncle Tom's Cabin to the shores of Great Britain. " As humble laborers in the cause of negro emancipation, wo hail, with emotions more easily imagined than described, the appearance of that remarkable work, which has awakened a world-wide sympathy on behalf of the suffering negro, and called forth a burst of honest indignaUon against the atrocious system of slavery, wh ich, we trust, un der the divineblessing,wiU, at no distantperiod, accomplish its entire aboUtion. Weare not insensible to those extraordinary merits of Uncle Tom's Cabin, as a merely literary production, which have procured for its talented authoress such universal commen dation and enthusiastic applause ; but we feel it to be our duty to refer rather to the Christian principles and earnest piety which pervade its interesting pages, and to ex press our warmest desire, we trust we may say heartfelt prayer, Ihat He who bestowed INTRODUCTORY. liX upon you the power and the grace to write such a work may preserve and bless you amid all your honours, and enable you, under a grateful and humble sense of his abundant goodness, to give him all the glory. " We rejoice to find that lhe great principles upon which our society is based are so fully and so cordially recognized by yourself and your beloved husband and brother — Firat, that personal slavery, in all its varied forms, is a direct violation of tho bleaaed precepts of the gospel, and therefore a sin in the sight of God ; and secondly, that every victim of this unjust and sinful system is entitled to immediate and uncondi tional freedom. For, however we might acquiesce in the course of a nation which, under a sense of ils participation in the guilt of slavery, should share the pe cuniary loss, if such there were, of its immediate abolition, yet we repudiate the right to demand compensation for human flesh and blood, aa (to employ the emphatic words of Lord Brougham) we repudiate and abhor ' the wild and guilty fantasy that man can hold properly in man.' And we do not hesitate to expreae our conviction, strength ened by tlie experience of emancipation in our own colonies, that on the mere ground of social or political expediency, the immediate termination uf slavery would be far lesa dangerous and far less injurious than any system of compromise, or any attempt at gradual emancipation. " Let il bo borne in mind, however, — and we record it with peculiar interest on tho present occasion, — that it was the pen of a woman that first publicly enunciated tiie iinporative duty of immediate emancipation. Amid vituperation and ridicule, and, far worse, tho cold rebuke of Chriatian friends, Mrs. Elizabeth Heyrick boldly aent forth the thrilling tract which taught the abolitionists of Great Britain thia leason of juatice and truth ; and wo honor her memory for her deeds. Again we are indebted to the pon of a woman for pleading yet more powerfully the cause of Justice to the slave ; and again we have to admire and honor the Christian heroism which haa enabled you, dear madam, to biave the storm of public opinion, and to bear the frowns of tho church in your own land, while you boldly sent forth your matchless volume to teach raore widely and more attr.-ictivoly the same righteous lesson, " We desire to feel grateful for the measure of success that has crowned the advocacy of theso sound antislavery principles in our own country ; but wo cannot but feel, that as njgards the continuance of slavery in Araerica, we have cause for humiliation and shame In the existence of the melancholy fact that a large proportion of the fruits of tho bitter toil and suffering of the slaves in the western world are used to minister lo the comfort and the luxury of our own population. When this anomaly ofa country's putting down slavery by law on the one hand, and supporting it by its trade and com merce on the other, will be removed, it is not for us to predict ; but we are conscious that our posuion is auch as should at least dissipate every sentiment of self-compla cency, and make us feel, both nationally and individually, how deep a responsibility StiU rests upon us to wash our own handa of this iniquity, and to seek by every legiti mate means in our power to rid Ihe world of this fearful instiiution. Ix INTRODUCTORY. " True ChrisUan philanthropy knows no geographical limits, no distinctions of race or color; but wherever it sees ils fellow-man the victim of suffering and oppression, it seeks to alleviate his sorrows, or drops a tear of sympathy over the afflictions which it has not fhe power to remove. We cannot but believe that these enlarged and gener ous sympathies will be aroused and strengthened in the hearts of thousands and tens of thousands of all classes who have wept over the touching pages of Uncle Tom's Cabin. We have marked the rapid progress of its circulation from circle to circle, and frora country to country, wilh feelings of thrilling interest ; for we trust, by the divine blessing upon the softening influence and Christian sentiments it breathes, it will be made the harbinger of a better and brighter day for the happiness and the har mony of the huraan faraily. The facilities for international intercourse which we now possess, while they rapidly tend to remove those absurd jealousies which have so long existed between the nations of the earth, are daily increasing the power of public opinion in the world at large, which is so well described by one of our leading states men in these forcible words : * It is quite true, it may be said, what are opinions against armies ? Opinions, if they are founded in truth and justice, will in the end prevail against the bayonets of infantry, the fire of artillery, and the charges of cavalry.' Re sponding most cordially to these sentiments, we rejoice with thanksgiving to God that you, whom we now greet and welcome aa our dear and honored friend, have been en abled to exemplify their beauty and their truth ; for it is our firm conviction that the united powers of Europe, with all their military array, could not accomplish what you have done, through the medium of public opinion, for the overthrow of Araerican slavery. " The glittering steel of the warrior, though steeped in the tyrant's blood, would ^e weak when compared with a woman's pen dipped in the milk of human kindness, and softened by tbe balm of Christian love. The words that have drawn a tear from the eye of the noble, and moistened the dusky cheek of the hardest sons of toil, shall sink into the heart and weaken the grasp of the slaveholder, and crimson with a blush of shame many an American citizen who has hitherto defended or countenanced by his silence this bitter reproach on the character and constitution of his country. " To the tender mercies of Him who died to save their immortal souls we comraend the downcast slaves for freedom and protection, and, in the heart-cheering belief that you have been raised up as an honored instrument in God's hand to hasten the glo rious work of their emancipation, we crave that his blessing, aa well as the blessing of him that is ready to perish, may abundantly rest upon you and yours. With sen timents of the highest esteem and respect, dear madam, we affectionately subscribe ourselves your friends and fellow-laborers." Professor Stowe was received with prolonged cheering. He said, " Besides the right which 1 have, owing to the relationship subsisting between us, to answer for the lady whom you have so honored, I may claim a stiU greater right in my sympathy for INTRODUCTORY. Ixi her efforts. [Hear !] We are perfectly agreed in every point with regard to the nature of slavery, and the best means of getting rid of it. I have been frequently called on to address public meetinga since I have been on these shores, and though under cir cumstances of great disadvantage, and generaUy with little tirae, if any, for prepara tion, still tho very great kindness whicli has been raanifested to Mrs, Stowe and to myself, and to our country, afflicted aa it is with this great evil, has enabled me to bear a burden which otherwise I should have found insupportable. Bui ot all the ad dresses we have received, kind and considerate as Ihey have ail been, I doubt whether one has so completely expressed the feelings and sympathies of our own hearts as the ono we have just heard. It is precisely the expressions of our own thoughts and feel ings on the whole subject of slavery. As this is probably the last time 1 shall have an opportunity of addressing an audience in England, I wish briefly to give you an out Une of our views as to the best moans of dealing wilh that terrible subject of slavery, for in our country it is really terrible in its power and influence Were it not that Providence seoina to be lifting a light in the distance, I should be almost in despair. There is now a system of causes at work which Providence designs should continue to work, until that great curse is removed from tho face of the earth. I believe that in dealing with Ihe aubject of slavery, and the beet means of removing it, Ihe first thing is to show Ihe utter wrongfulness of the whole syatem. The great moral ground is tho chief and primary ground, and the one on which we should always, and under all circumstances, insist. With regard to the work which has created so much excite ment, the great excellence of it morally is, that it holds up fuUy and emphaUcally the extreme wrongfulness of tlie system, while at the aame time showing an entire Chris tian and forgiving spirit towarda those involved in it ; and it is these two characteris tics which, in my opinion, have given it ita great power. Till I read that book, I had never aoen any extensive work that satisfied me on those points. It doea show. In the most striking manner, tho liorrible wrongfulness of tho syatem, and, at (he same time, it difiplays no bitterness, no unfairness, no unkindness, to those involved in it. It is that which gives the work the greater power, for where there is unfairness, those as sailed take refuge behind it ; while here they have no such refuge. We should always aim, in assailing Ihe system of slavery, to awaken the consciences of those involved in it ; for among slaveholders Ihore are all kinds of moral development, as among every other class of people in the world. There are men of tender conscience, as well as men of blunted conscience ; men with moral sense, and men wilh no moral sense whatever ; some who have come into the system involuntarily, born in it, and others who have come into it voluntarily. There is a moral nature in every man, more or less developed ; and according as it is developed we can, by showing the wrong of a. thing, bring one to abhor it- Wo have the testimony of Christian clergj'raen in slave holding states, Ihat the greater portion of the Christian people there, and ev-jn many slaveholders, believe the system ia wrong ; and it is only a matter of time, a questi ii /* Ixii INTRODUCTORY. of delay, as to when they shall perform their whole duty, and bring it to an end.* One would believe that when they saw a thing to be wrong, they vvould at once do right; but prejudice, habit, interest, education, and a variety of influencea check (heir aspi rations to what ia right ; but let us keep on preasing it upon their consciences, and I believe their consciences vvill at length respond. PubUc sentiment is more powerful than force, and it may be excited in many ways. Conversation, the press, the plat form, and the pulpit raay all be used to awaken the feeUng of the people, and bring it to bear on this question. I refer especially to the pulpit ; for, if the church and the ministry are silent, who is to speak for the dumb and the oppressed.? The thing that has borne on my mind with the must melancholy weight, and caused me most sorrow, is the apparent apathy, the comparative silence, of the church ou this subject for the last twenty or five and twenty years in the United States. Previous to that period it did speak, and with words of power ; but, unfortunately, it has not followed out those words by acts. The influence of the system has come upon it, and brought it, fora long time, almost to entire silence; but I hope we aro beginning to speak again. We hear voices here and there which will excite other voices, and I trust be fore long they will bring all to speak the same thing on this subject, so that the con science of the whole nation may be aroused. There is another method of dealing with the subject, which is alluded to in the address, and also in the resolution of the society, at Exeter Hall. It is the third resolution proposed at that meeting, and I will read it, and make some comments as I proceed. It begins, * That, with a view to the correc tion of public sentiment on this subject in slaveholding communities, it is of the first importance that those who are earnest in condemnation of slavery should observe consistency, and, therefore, that it is their duty to encourage the development of the natural resources of countries where slavery does not exist, and the soil of which is adapted to tbe growth of products, especially cotton, now partially or chiefly raised by slave labor.' Now, I concur with this most entirely, and would refer you to countries where cotton can be grown even in your own dominions — in India, Australia, British Guiana, and parts of Africa. But it can be raised by free labor in the United States, and indeed it Is already raised there by free labor to a considerable extent ; and, provided the plan were more encouraged, it could be raised more abundantly. The resolution goes on to say, ' And though the extinction of slavery is less to be expected from a diminished demand for slave produce than from the moral effects of a steadfast abhorrence of slavery, and from an unwavering and consistent opposition to it,' &c. Now, my own feelings on that subject are not quite so hopeless as here expressed, and it seems to me that you are not aware of the extent to which free labor may come into compeUtion with slave labor. I know several instances, in the most slaveholding states, in which slave labor has been displaced, and free labor substituted in its stead. The weakness of slavery consists in the expense of the slaves, the great capital to be • Thia state of things is fast changing. Church members at thc south now defend slavery as right. This is a new thing. INTRODUCTORY. Ixiii invested in their purchase before any work can be performed, and the constant danger of loss by death or escape. When the Chinese emigrants from the eaaiem portion of their empire came to tho North-western States, their lahor was found much cheaper and belter than that of slaves. I therefore hope there may be a direct influence from this source, as well as the indirect influence contemplated by tho resolution. At all events, it is an encouragement to those who wish the extinction of slavery to keep their eyes open, and assist the process by all the means in their power. The resolu tion proceeds: 'This meeting would earnestly recommend, in all cases where it is practicable, that a decided preference should be given to the products of free labor by all who enter their protest against slavery, so that at least they themselves may be clear of any participation in the guilt of the system, and be thus morally strengthened ill Iheir condemnation of it.' To that there can be no objection ; but still the state of society is such that we cannot at once dispense with all the products of stave labor. We may, however, be doing what we can — examining tiie ways and methods hy which this end may bo brought about; and, at all events, we need nol be deterred from self- denial, nor shrink before minor obstacles. If with foresight we parlicipate in the en couragement of slave labor, we must hold ourselves guilty, in no unimportant sense, of sustaining tho system of slavery. I will illustrate my argument by a very simple method. Suppose two ships arrive laden with silks of the same qiiatlty, but une a pirate ahip, in which the gooda have been obtained by robbery, and tho olher by honest trade. The pirate sells his silks twenty per cent, cheaper than the henesl trader : you go to hini, and declaim against his dishonesty ; but because you can get silks cheaper of him, you buy of him. Would he think you sincere in your denunciations of his plun dering his fellow-creatures, or would you exert any influence on him to make him abandon hia dishonest practices? I can, however, put another case in which this in consistency might, perhaps, bo unavoidable. Suppose we were in famine or great nccofsity, and we wialied to obtain provisions for our suffering familiea : suppose, too, there was a certain man with proviaiona, who, we know, had come by them dishoneatly, but we had no other reaource than to purchase of him. In that case we ahould be juarified in purchasing of him, and should not participate in the guilt of the robbery. But still, however great our necessity, we are not justified In refusing to examine the subject, and In discouraging those who aro endeavoring to set the thing on the right ground. That ia all I wish, and all the resolution contemplates ; and, happily, I find that that also is what was implied in tho address, I may mention one other method alluded to in the address, and that ia prayer to Almighty God, This ought to be, and must bc, a religious enterpriae. It ia impossible for any man to contemplate slavery aa it is without feeling intense indignation ; and unless he have his heart near to God, and unless he be a man of prayer and devotional spirit, bad passions will arise, and to a verj' great extent neutralize his efforts to do good. How do you suppose such a re ligious feeUng has been preserved in the book to which the address refers.!* Because it was written amid prayer from the beginning; and it is only hy a constant exercise Ixiv INTRODUCTORY. of the reUgious spirit that the good it had effected has been accomplished in the way it has. There is one more subject to which I would allude, and that is unity among those who desire to emancipate the slave. I mean a good understanding and unity of feeling among the opponents of slavery. What gives slavery ita great strength in the United States.? There are only about three hundred thousand slaveholders in the United States out of the whole twenty-five miUions of its popuIaUon, and yet they hold the entire power over the nation. That is owing to their unbroken unity on that one matter, however much, and however fiercely, they may contend among them selves on others. As soon as the subject of slavery comes up, they are of one heart, of one voice, and of one mind, while their opponents unhappily differ, and assail each other when they ought to be assailing the great enemy alone. Why can they not work together, so far as they aro agreed, and let those points on which they disagree be waived for the time ? In the midst of the batUe let them sink their differences, and settle them after tlie victory is won. I was happy to find at the great meeting of the Peace Society that that course has been adopted. They are not all of one mind on the details of the question, but they are of one mind on the great principle of diffusing peace doctrines among the great nations of Europe. I therefore say, let all the friends of the slave work together until tlie great work of his emancipation is accomplished, and then they will have time to discuss their differences, though I beUeve by that time they will all think alike. I thank you sincerely for the kindness you have ex pressed towards njy country, and for the philanthropy you have manifested, and I hope all haa been done in such a Christian spirit that every Christian feeling on the T>ther aide of the Atlantic will be compelled to respond to it." Concluding Note. Since the preceding addresses were delivered, the aspect of things among us has been greatly changed. It is just as was predicted by the sagacious Lord Cockburn, at the meeting in Edinburgh, (see page xv.) The spirit of slavery, stimulated to madness by the indignation of the civilized world, in its frenzy bids defiance to God and man, and is determined to make itself respected by enlistmg into its service the entire INTRODUCTOKT. IxV wealth, and power, and political influence of this great nation. Its encroachments are becoming so enormous, and its progress so rapid, that it is now a conflict for the freedom of the citi zens rather than for the emancipation of the slaves. The reckless faithlessness and impudent falsehood of our national proslavery legislation, the present season, has scarcely a par allel in history, black as history is with all kinds of perfidj'. If the men who mean to be free do not now arise in their strength and shake off the incubus which is strangling and crushing them, they deserve to be slaves, and they will be. C. E. S. SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOEEIGN LANDS (Ixvii) SUNNY MEMORIES OP /// : ' EOREIGN LANDS. LETTER I. Liverpool, April 11, 1853. My deak Children: — You wish, first of all, to hear of the voyage. Let me assure you, my dears, in the very commencement of the matter, that going to sea is not at all the thing that we have taken it to be. duarter You know how often we have longed for a sea v^ against the fulfilment of all our dreams of poetry and roigmal look TOL. I. 1 2 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. realization of our highest conceptions of free, joyous exist ence. You remember our ship-launching parties in Maine, when we used to ride to the seaside through dark pine forests, lighted up with the gold, scarlet, and orange tints of autumn. What exhilaration there was, as those beautiful inland bays, one by one, unrolled like silver ribbons before us ! and how all our sympathies went forth with the grand new ship about to be launched ! How graceful and noble a thing she looked, as she sprang from the shore to the blue waters, like a human soul springing from life into immortality! flow all our feelings went with her ! how we longed to be with her, and a part of her — to go with her to India, China, or any where, so that we might rise and fall on the bosom of that magnifi cent ocean, and share a part of that glorified existence! That ocean ! that blue, sparkling, heaving, mysterious ocean, with all the signs and wonders of heaven emblazoned on its bosom, and another world of mystery hidden beneath its waters ! Who would not long to enjoy a freer communion, and rejoice in a prospect of days spent in unreserved feUow ship with its grand and noble nature ? Alas ! what a contrast between all this poetry and the real prose fact of going to sea ! No man, the proverb says, is a hero to his valet de chambre. Certainly, no poet, no hero, no inspired prophet, ever lost so much on near acquaintance as this same mystic, grandiloquent old Ocean. The one step from the sublime to the ridiculous is never taken with such alacrity as in a sea voyage. 'ie first place, it is a melancholy fact, but not the less '. ship life is not at all fragrant ; in short, particularly er, there is a most mournful combination of grease, SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 6 steam, onions, and dinners in general, either past, present, or to come, which, floating invisibly in the atmosphere, strongly predisposes to that disgust of existence, which, in half an hour after sailing, begins to come upon you ; that disgust, that strange, mysterious, ineffable sensation which steals slowly and inexplicably upon you ; which makes every heaving bU low, every white-capped wave, the ship, the people, the sight, taste, sound, and smell of every thing a matter of inexpressi ble loathing 1 Man cannot utter it. It is really amusing to watch the gradual progress of this epidemic ; to see people stepping on board in the highest pos sible feather, alert, airy, nimble, parading the deck, chatty and conversable, on the best possible terms with themselves and mankind generally ; the treacherous ship, meanwhile, undulating and heaving in the most graceful rises and pauses imaginable, like some voluptuous wait zer; and then to see one after another yielding to the mysterious spell ! Your poet launches forth, " full of sentiment sublime as bil lows," discoursing magnificently on thc color of the waves and the glory of thc clouds ; but graduaUy he grows white about thc mouth, gives sidelong looks towards the stairway ; at last, with one desperate plunge, he sets, to rise no more ! Here sits a stout gentleman, who looks as resolute as an oak log. " These things are much the effect of imagination," he teUs you ; " a Uttle self-control and resolution,'' &c. Ah me I it is deUghtful, when these people, who are always talk ing about resolution, get caught on shipboard. As the back woodsman said to the Mississippi River, about the steamboat, they '' get their match." Our stout gentleman sits a quarter of an hour, upright as a palm tree, his back squared against the raUs, pretending to be reading a paper ; but a dismal look 4 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. of disgust is settUng down about his Ups ; the old sea and his wiU are evidently having a pitched battle. Ah, ha ! there he goes for the stairway ; says he has left a book in the cabin, but shoots by with a most suspicious velocity. You may fancy his finale. Then, of course, there are young ladies, — charnung crea tures, — who, in about ten minutes, are going to die, and are sure they shaU die, and don't care if they do ; whom anxious papas, or brothers, or lovers consign with aU speed to those dismal lower regions, where the brisk chambermaid, who has been expectiag them, seems to think their agonies and groans a regular part of the play. I had come on board thinking, in my simpUcity, of a fort night to be spent something Uke the fortnight on a trip to New Orleans, on one of our floating river palaces ; that we should sit in our state rooms, read, sew, sketch, and chat; and accordingly I laid in a magnificent provision in the way of Uterature and divers matters of fancy work, with which to whUe away the time. Some last, airy touches, in the way of making up bows, disposing ribbons, and binding coUarets, had been left to these long, leisure hours, as matters of amusement. Let me warn you, if you ever go to sea, you may as well omit aU such preparations. Don't leave so much as the unlocking of a trunk to be done after sailing. In the few precious minutes when the ship stands stUl, before she weighs her anchor, set your house, that is to say, your state room, as much in order as if you were going to be hanged ; place every thing in the most convenient position to be seized with out trouble at a moment's notice ; for be sure that in half au hour after saiUng an infinite desperation wUl seize you, in SUNNY m|;mories op foreign lands. 5 which the grasshopper wiU be a burden. If any thing is in your trunk, it might almost as weU be in the sea, for any practical probabihty of your getting to it. Moreover, let your toUet be eminently simple, for you wiQ find the time coming when to button a cuff or arrange a rufif wUl be a matter of absolute despair. You Ue discon solate in your berth, only desiring to be let alone to die; and then, if you are told, as you always are, that "you . mustn't give way," that " you must rouse yourself" and come on deck, you wUl appreciate the value of simple attire. With every thing in your berth dizzily swkigiag backwards and forwards, your bonnet, your cloak, your tippet, your gloves, all present so many discouraging impossibilities ; knot ted strings cannot be untied, and modes of fastening which seemed curious and convenient, when you had nothing else to do but fasten them, now look disgustingly impracticable. Nevertheless, your fate for thc whole voyage depends upon your rousing yourself to get upon deck at first ; to give up, then, is to be condemned to the Avernus, the Hades of tho lower regions, for the rest of the voyage. Ah, those lower regions ! — the saloons — every couch and corner filled with prostrate, despairing forms, with pale checks, long, wiUowy hair and sunken eyes, groaning, sighing, and apostrophizing the Fates, and solemnly vowing between every lurch of the ship, that " you'U never catch them going to sea again, that's what you won't ; " and then the buUetins from all the state rooms — " Mrs. A. is sick, and Miss B. sicker, and Miss C. almost dead, and Mrs. E., F., and G. declare Ihut they shaU give up." This threat of " giving up " is a standing resort of ladies in distressed circumstances ; it is al^ ways very impressively pronounced, as if the result of earnest 1* 6 SUNNY memories OP FOREKJN LANDS. purpose ; but how it is to be carried out practically, how ladies do give up, and what general impression is made on creation when they do, has never yet appeared. Certainly the sea seems to care very Uttle about the threat, for he goes on lurching all hands about just as freely afterwards as before. Thej;e are always some three or four in a hundred who escape all these evUs. They are not sick, and they seem to be having a good time generally, and always meet you with " WTi^t a charming run we are having I Isn't it deUghtful? " and so on. If you have a turn for being disinterested, you can console your miseries by a view of their joyousness. Three or four of our ladies were of this happy order, and it was really refreshing to see them. For my part, I was less fortunate. I could not and would not give up and become one of the ghosts below, and so I managed, by keeping on deck and trying to act as if nothing was the matter, to lead a very uncertain and precarious exist ence, though with a most awful tmdertone of emotion, which seemed to make quite another thing of creation. I wonder that people who wanted to break the souls of heroes and martyrs never thought of sending them to sea and keeping them a Uttle seasick. The dungeons of 01- mutz, the leads of Venice, in short, aU the naughty, wicked places that tyrants ever invented for bringing down the spirits of heroes, are nothing to the berth of a ship. Get Lafayette, Kossuth, or the noblest of woman born, prostrate in a swinging, dizzy berth of one of these sea coops, caUed state rooms, and I'U warrant almost any compromise might be got out of them. Where in the world the soul goes to under such influences SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. / nobody knows ; one would reaUy think the sea tipped it aU out of a man, just as it does the water out of his wash basin. The soul seems to be like one of the genii enclosed in a vase, in the Arabian Nights ; now, it rises like a pillar of cloud, and floats over land and sea, buoyant, many-hued, and glo rious; again, it goes down, down, subsiding into its copper vase, and the cover is clapped on, and there you are. A sea voyage is the best device for getting the soul back into its vase that I know of. But at night ! — the beauties of a night on shipboard ! — down in your berth, with the sea hissing and fizzing, gurgling and booming, within an inch of your ear ; and then the stew ard comes along at twelve o'clock and puts out your Ught, and there you are 1 Jonah in the whale was not darker or more dismal. There, in profound ignorance and blindness, you lie, and feel yourself rolled upwards, and downwards, and side- wise, and all *ays, Uke a cork in a tub of water ; much such a sensation as one might suppose it to be, were one headed up in a barrel and thrown into the sea. Occasionally a wave comes with a thump against your car, as if a great hammer were knocking on your barrel, to see that all within was safe and sound. Then you begin to think of krakens, and sharks, and porpoises, and sea serpents, and all the monstrous, sUmy, cold, hobgoblin brood, who, perhaps, are your next door neighbors ; and the old blue-haired Ocean whispers through the planks, " Here you are ; I've got you. Your grand ship is my plaything. I can do what I like with it." Then you hear every kind of odd noise in the ship — creak ing, straining, crunching, scraping, pounding, whistUng, blow ing off steam, each of which to your unpractised ear is sig- 8 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. nificant of some impending catastrophe ; you Ue wide awake, Ustening with aU your might, as if your watching did any good, tUl at last sleep overcomes you, and the morning Ught convinces you that nothing very particular has been the matter, and that aU these frightful noises are only the neces sary attendants of what is caUed a good run. Our voyage out was caUed "a good run.'' It was voted, unanimously, to be "an extraordinarily good passage," "a pleasant voyage;" yet the ship rocked the whole time from side to side with a steady, dizzy, continuous motion, Uke a great cradle. I had a new sympathy for babies, poor Uttle things, who are rocked hours at a time without so much as a "by your leave" in the case. No wonder there are so many stupid people in the world. There is no place where killing time is so much of a sys tematic and avowed object as in one of these short runs. In a six months' voyage people give up to their situation, and make arrangements to Uve a regular Ufe ; but the ten days that now divide England and America are not long enough for any thing. The great question is how to get them off; they are set up, like tenpins, to be bowied at; and happy he whose baU prospers. People with strong heads, who can stand the incessant swing of the boat, may read or write. Then there is one's berth, a never-failing resort, where one may analyze at one's leisure the life and emotions of an oyster in the mud. WaUdng the deck is a means of getting off some half hours more. If a ship heaves in sight, or a porpoise tumbles up, or, better still, a whale spouts, it makes an immense sensation. Our favorite resort is by the old red smoke pipe of the steamer, which rises Avarm and luminous as a sort of tower SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 9 of defence. The wind must blow an uncommon variety of ways at once when you cannot find a sheltered side, as well as a place to warm your feet. In fact, the old smoke pipe is the domestic hearth of the ship ; there, with the double con venience of warmth and fresh air, you can sit by the railing, and, looking down, command the prospect of the cook's ofiices, the cow house, pantries, &c. Our cook has speciaUy interested me — a taU, slender, melancholy man, with a watery-blue eye, a patient, dejected visage, like an individual weary of the storms and commotions of life, and thoroughly impressed with the vanity of human wishes. I sit there hour after hour watching him, and it is evident that he performs aU his duties in this frame of sad composure. Now I see him resignedly stufimg a turkey, anon compounding a sauce, or mournfully making little ripples in the crust of a tart ; but aU is done under an evident sense that it is of no use trying. Many complaints have been made of our coffee since we have been on board, which, to say the truth, has been as unsettled as most of the social questions of our day, and, perhaps, for that reason quite as generaUy unpalatable ; but since I have seen our cook, I am quite persuaded that the coffee, Uke other works of great artists, has borrowed the hues of its maker's mind. I think I hear him soUloquize over it — "To what purpose is coffee? — of what avail tea? — thick or clear ? — all is passing away — a Uttle egg, or fish skin, more or less, what are they?" and so we get melancholy coffee and tea, owing to our philosophic cook. After dinner I watch him as he washes dishes : he hangs up a whole row of tin ; the ship gives a lurch, and knocks them aU down. He looks as if it was just what he expected. 10 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. " Such is life ! " he says, as he pursues a frisky tin pan in one direction, and arrests the gambols of the ladle in another; while the wicked sea, meanwhUe, with another lurch, is up setting aU his dishwater. I can see how these daily trials, this performing of most deUcate and compUcated gastronomic operations in the midst of such unsteady, unsettled circum stances, have graduaUy given this poor soul a despair of living, and brought him into this state of philosophic melan choly. Just as Xantippe made a sage of Socrates, this whis ky, frisky, stormy ship life has made a sage of our cook. Meanwhile, not to do him injustice, let it be recorded, that in all dishes which require grave conviction and steady perse verance, rather than hope and inspiration, he is eminently successful. Our table excels in viands of a reflective and solemn character ; mighty rounds of beef, vast saddles of mutton, and the whole tribe of meats in general, come on in a superior style. English plum pudding, a weighty and seri ous performance, is exhibited in first-rate order. The jelUes want lightness, — but that is to be expected. I admire the thorough order and system with which every thing is done on these ships. One day, when the servants came round, as they do at a certain time after dinner, and screwed up the shelf of decanters and bottles out of our reach, a German gentleman remarked, "Ah, that's always the way on English ships ; every thing done at such a time, without saying ' by your leave.' If it had been on an Ameri can ship now, he would have said, ' Gentlemen, are you ready to have this shelf raised?'" No doubt this remark is true and extends to a good many other thmgs ; but in a ship in the middle of the ocean, when the least confusion or irregularity in certain cases might be SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 11 destruction to aU on board, it does inspire confidence to see that there is even in the minutest things a strong and steady system, that goes on without saying " by your leave." Even the rigidness with which Ughts are aU extinguished at twelve o'clock, though it is very hard in some cases, stiU gives you confidence in the watchfulness and care with which aU on board is conducted. On Sunday there was a service. We went into the cabin, and saw prayer books arranged at regular intervals, and soon a procession of the sailors neatly dressed fUed in and took their places, together with such passengers as felt disposed, and the order of morning prayer was read. The saUors all looked serious and attentive. I could not but think that this feature of the management of her majesty's ships was a good one, and worthy of imitation. To be sure, one can say it is only a form. Granted ; but is not a serious, respectful form of reUgion better than nothing ? Besides, I am not wilUng to think that these inteUigent-looking saUors could Usten to all those devout sentiments expressed in the prayers, and the holy truths embodied in the passages of Scripture, and not gain something fi-om it. It is bad to have only the form of reUgion, but not so bad as to have neither the form nor the fact. When the ship has been out about eight days, an evident bettering of spirits and condition obtains among the passen gers. Many of the sick ones take heart, and appear again among the walks and ways of men ; the ladies assemble in little knots, and talk of getting on shore. The more knowing ones, who have traveUed before, embrace this opportunity to show theii- knowledge of Ufe by teUing the new hands aU sorts of hobgoblin stories about the custom house officers and 12 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. the difficulties of getting landed in England. It is a curi ous fact, ihat old traveUers generaUy seem to take this par ticular deUght in striking consternation into younger ones. "You'U have all your daguerreotypes taken away,'' says one lady, who, in right of having crossed the ocean nine times, is entitled to speak ex cathedra on the subject. " AU our daguerreotypes ! " shriek four or five at once. " Pray teU, what for?" " They will do it," says the knowing lady, with an awful nod ; " unless you hide them and aU your books, they'U bum up " " Bum our books ! " exclaim the circle. " 0, dreadful I What do they do that for ? " " They're very particular always to burn up aU your books. I knew a lady who had a dozen burned," says the wise one. "Dear me! wUl they take our dresses?" says a young lady, with increasing alarm. "No, but they'U puU every thing out, and tumble them weU over, I can teU you." " How horrid ! " An old lady, who has been very sick aU the way, is revived by this appaUing intelUgence. " I hope they won't tumble over my caps ! " she exclaims. " Yes, they wUl have every thing out on deck," says the lady, deUghted with the increasing sensation. "I teU you you don't know these custom house officers." "It's too bad!" "It's dreadful!" "How horrid!" ex claim all. " I shaU put my best things in my pocket," exclaims ono. " They don't search our pockets, do they ? " "Well, no, not here; but I teU you they'U search your pockets at Antwerp and Brussels," says the lady. SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. IS Somebody catches the sound, and flies off into the state rooms with the intelUgence that " the custom house officers are so dreadful — they rip open your trunks, puU out aU your things, bum your books, take away your daguerreotypes, and even search your pockets;" and a row of groans is heard ascending from the row of state rooms, as all begin to revolvo what they have in their trunks, and what they are to do in this emergency. " Pray teU me," said I to a gentlemanly man, who had crossed four or five times, " is there reaUy so much annoyance at the custom house ? " " Annoyance, ma'am ? No, not the sUghtest." " But do they reaUy tum out the contents of the trunks, and take away people's daguerreotypes, and bum their books ? " " Nothing of the kind, ma'am. I apprehend no difficulty. I never had any. There are a few articles on which duty is charged. I have a case of cigars, for instance ; I shall show them to the custom house officer, and pay tho duty. If a per son seems disposed to be fair, there is no difficulty. The examination of ladies' trunks is merely nominal ; nothing is deranged." So it proved. We arrived on Sunday moming; the cus tom house officers, very gentlemanly men, came on boai-d ; our luggage was aU set out, and passed through a rapid examina tion, which in many cases amounted only to opening the trunk and shutting it, and all waa over. The whole cere mony did not occupy two hom-s. So ends this letter. You shall hear further how we landed at some future time. VOL. I. 2 14 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. LETTER II. Dear Father: — It was on Sunday moming that we first came in sight of land. The day was one of a thousand — clear, calm, and bright. It is one of those strange, throbbing feelings, that come only once in a whUe in Ufe ; this waking up to find an ocean crossed and long-lost land restored again in another hemi sphere ; something Uke what we should suppose might be the thriU of awakening from life to immortality, and aU the won ders of the world unknown. That low, green line of land in the horizon is Ireland ; and we, with water smooth as a lake and saUs furled, are running within a mUe of the shore. Ev ery body on deck, fuU of spirits and expectation, busy as can be looking through spyglasses, and exclaiming at every object on shore, — " Look ! there's Skibareen, where the worst of the famine was," says one. " Look ! that's a ruined MarteUo tower," says another. We new voyagers, who had never seen any ruin more im posing than that of a cow house, and, of course, were rave nous for old towers, were now quite wide awake, but were disappointed to leam that these were only custom house ren dezvous. Here is the county of Cork. Some one caUs out, — " There is O'ConneU's house ; " and a warm dispute ensues whether a large mansion, with a stone chapel by it, answers to that name. At all events the region looks desolate enough, and they say the natives of it are almost savages. A passen- SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 15 ger remarks, that " O'ConneU never reaUy did any thing for the Irish, but Uved on his capacity for exciting their enthu siasm." Thereupon another expresses great contempt for the Irish who could be so taken in. Nevertheless, the capa- bUity of a disinterested enthusiasm is, on the whole, a nobler property of a human being than a shrewd self-interest. I like the Irish all the better for it. Now we pass Kinsale hghthouse ; there is the spot where the Albion was wrecked. It is a bare, frowning cliff, with waUs of rock rising perpendicularly out of the sea. Now, to be sure, the sea smUes and sparkles around the base of it, as gently as if it never could storm ; yet under other skies, and with a fierce south-east wind, how the waves would pour in here ! Woe then to the distressed and rudderless vessel that drifts towards those fatal rocks ! This gives the outmost aud boldest view of the point. View East of Kiusale. The Albion struck just round the left of the point, where the rock rises perpendiciUarly out of the sea. I weU remem ber, when a child, of the newspapers being fiUed with the dreadful story of the wreck of the ship Albion — how for hours, rudderless and helpless, they saw themselves driving with inevitable certainty against these pitUess rocks ; and how, in the last struggle, one human being after another was dashed against them in helpless agony. 16 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. What an infinite deal of misery results from man's helpless ness and ignorance and nature's inflexibUity in this one matter of crossing the ocean ! What agonies of prayer there were during aU the long hours that this ship was driving straight on to these fatal rocks, all to no purpose ! It struck and crushed just the same. Surely, without the revelation of God in Jesus, who could beUeve in the divine goodness ? I do not wonder the old Greeks so often spoke of their gods as cruel, and beUeved the universe was govemed by a remorse less and inexorable fate. Who would come to any other con clusion, except from the pages of the Bible ? But we have saUed far past Kinsale point. Now blue and shadowy loom up the distant form of the Youghal Mountains, (pronounced Toole.) The surface of the water is aUve with fishing boats, spreading their white wings and skimming about Uke so many moth millers. About nine o'clock we were crossmg the sand bar, which lies at the mouth of the Mersey River, nmning up towards Liverpool. Our signal pennants are fluttering at the mast head, pUot fuU of energy on one wheel house, and a man casting the lead on the other. " By the mark, five," says the man. The pUot, with all his energy, is telegraphing to the steersman. This is a very close and compUcated piece of navigation, I should think, this ranning up the Mersey, for every moment we are passing some kind of a signal token, which warns off from some shoal. Here is a beU buoy, where the waves keep the beU always toUmg; here, a buoyant hghthouse; and "See there, those shoals, how pokerish they look ! " says one of the passengers, pointing to the foam on our starboard bow. AU is bustle, animation, exultation. Now float out the American stars and stripes on our bow. SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 17 Before us Ues the great city of Liverpool. No old cathe dral, no castles, a real New Yorkish place. < "There, that's the fort," cries one. Bang, bang, go the two guns from our forward gangway. " I wonder if they wiU fire from the fort," says another. " How green that grass looks ! " says a third ; " and what pretty cottages ! " "AU modem, though," says somebody, in tones of disap pointment. Now we are passing the Victoria Dock. Bang, bang, again. We are in a forest of ships of aU nations ; their masts bristling Uke the tall pines in Maine ; their many col ored flags streaming Uke the forest leaves in autumn. " Hark," says one ; " there's a chime of beUs fi-om the city ; how sweet ! I had quite forgotten it was Sunday." Here we cast anchor, and the small steam tender comes puffing alongside. Now for the custom house officers. State rooms, holds, and cabins must all give up their trunks ; a gen eral muster among the baggage, and passenger after passenger comes forward as their names are caUed, much as follows : " Snooks." " Here, sir." " Any thmg contraband here, Mr. Snooks ? Any cigars, tobacco, &c. ? " " Nothing, sir." A little unlocking, a Uttle fumbUng. " Shut up ; all right ; ticket here." And a little man pastes on each article a sUp of paper, with the royal arms of England and the magical letters V. R., to remind all men that they have come into a country where a lady reigns, and of course must behave them selves as prettily as they can. We were inquiring of some friends for the most convenient hotel, when we found the son of Mr. Cropper, of Dingle Bank, waiting in the cabin, to take us ^vith him to their hospitable abode. In a few moments after the baggage had been exam- 2* 18 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. ined, we aU bade adieu to the old ship, and went on board the Uttle steam tender, which carries passengers up to the city. This Mersey River would be a very beautiful one, if it were not so dingy and muddy. As we are sailing up in the tender towards Liverpool, I deplore the circumstance feel ingly. " What does make this river so muddy ? " " 0," says a bystander, " don't you know that ' The quaKty of mercy ia not strained ' ? " And now we are fairly alongside the shore, and we are soon going to set our foot on the land of Old England. Say what we wUl, an American, particularly a New Eng lander, can never approach the old country without a kind of thrUl and pulsation of kindred. Its history for two centu ries was our history. Its Uterature, laws, and language are our Uterature, laws, and language. 'Spenser, Shakspeare, Bacon, Milton, were a glorious inheritance, which we share in common. Our very life-blood is English Ufe-blood. It is Anglo-Saxon vigor that is spreading our country from Atlan tic to Pacific, and leading on a new era in the world's devel^ opment. America is a taU, sightly young shoot, that has grown from the old royal oak of England ; divided from its parent root, it has shot up in new, rich soil, and under genial, brilUant skies, and therefore takes on a new type of growth and foUage, but the sap in it is the same. I had an early opportunity of making acquaintance with my EngUsh brethren; for, much to my astonishment, I found quite a crowd on the wharf, and we walked up to our carriage through a long lane of people, bowing, and looking very glad to see us. When I came to get into the hack it was surrounded by more faces than I could count. They SUNNY. MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 19 stood very quietly, and looked very kindly, though evidently very much determined to look. Something prevented the hack from moving on; so the interview was prolonged for some time. I therefore took occasion to remark the very fair, pure complexions, the clear eyes, and the general air of health and vigor, which seem to characterize our brethren and sisters of the island. There seemed to be no occasion to ask them how they did, as they were evidently quite weU. Indeed, this air of health is one of the most striking things when one lands in England. They were not burly, red-faced, and stout, as I had some times conceived of the EngUsh people, but just fuU enough to suggest the idea of vigor and health. The presence of so many healthy, rosy people looking at me, aU reduced as I was, first by land and then by sea sickness, made me feel my self more withered and forlorn than ever. But there was an earnestness and a depth of kind feeUng in some of the faces, which I shaU long remember. It seemed as if I had not only touched the English shore, but felt the EngUsh heart. Our carriage at last drove on, taking us through Liverpool, and a mile or two out, and at length wound its way along the gravel paths of a beautiful Uttle retreat, on the banks of the Mersey, caUed the " Dingle." It opened to my eyes like a paradise, aU wearied as I was -with the tossing of the sea. I have since become familiar with these beautiful Uttle spots, wiiich are so common in England ; but now all was entirely new to me. We rode by shining clumps of the Portugal laurel, a beautiful evergreen, much resembUng our mountain rhodo dendron ; then there was the prickly, poUshed, dark-green 20 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. holly, which I had never seen before, but which is, certain ly, one of the most perfect of shrubs. The turf was of that soft, dazzling green, and had that pecuUar velvet-Uke smoothness, which seem characteristic of England. We stopped at last before the door of a cottage, whose porch was overgrown with ivy. From that moment I ceased to feel myself a stranger in England. I caimot teU you how de Ughtful to me, dizzy and weary as I was, was the first sight of the chamber of reception which had been prepared for us. No item of cozy comfort that one could desire was omit ted. The sofa and easy chair wheeled up before a cheerful coal fire, a bright Uttle teakettle steaming in front of the grate, a table with a beautiful vase of flowers, books, and writing apparatus, and kind friends with words fuU of affectionate cheer, — aU these made me feel at home in a moment. The hospitaUty of England has become famous in the world, and, I think, with reason. I doubt not there is just as much hospitable feeUng in other countries ; but in England the matter of coziness and home comfort has been so studied, and matured, and reduced to system, that they reaUy have it in their power to effect more, towards making their guests comfortable, than perhaps any other people. After a short season aUotted to changing our ship garments and for rest, we found ourselves seated at the dinner table. WhUe dining, the sister-in-law of our friends came in from the next door, to exchange a word or two of welcome, and invite us to breakfast with them the foUowing moming. Between all the excitements of landing, and meeting so many new faces, and the remains of the dizzy motion of the ship, which stUl haunted me, I found it impossible to close my eyes to sleep that first night tiU the dim gray of dawn. SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 21 I got up as soon as it was Ught, and looked out of the -window ; and as my eyes feU on the luxuriant, ivy-covered porch, the clumps of shining, dark-green hoUy bushes, I said to myself, « Ah, reaUy, this is England ! " I never saw any plant that struck me as more beautiful than this hoUy. It is a dense shrub growuig from six to eight feet high, with a thickly varnished leaf of green. The outline of the leaf is something Uke this. I do not beUeve it can ever come to a state of perfect development under the fierce alternations of heat and cold which obtain in our New England climate, though it grows in the Southern States. It is one of the symboUcal shrubs of England, proba bly because its bright green in winter makes it so splendid a Christmas deco ration. A Uttle bird sat twittering on one of the sprays. He had a bright red breast, and seemed evidently to consider himself of good blood and family, with the best reason, as I afterwards leamed, since he was no other than the identical robin redbreast renowned in song and story; undoubtedly a lineal descendant of that very cock robin whose death and burial form so vivid a portion of our chUdish Uterature. I must teU you, then, as one of the first remarks on mat ters and things here in England, that " robin redbreast " is not at aU the feUow we in America take him to be. The character who flourishes under that name among us is quite a different bird ; he is twice as large, and has altogether a different air, and as he sits up Avith miUtary erectness on a 22 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. raU fence or stump, shows not even a family Ukeness to his diminutive EngUsh namesake. Well, of course, robin over here wiU claim to have the real family estate and title, since he lives in a country where such matters are understood and looked into. Our robin is probably some fourth cousin, who, Uke others, has struck out a new course for himself in Ameri ca, and thrives upon it. We hurried to dress, remembering our engagements to breakfast this moming with a brother of our host, whose cot tage stands on the same ground, within a few steps of our-own. I had not the sUghtest idea of what the EngUsh mean by a breakfast, and therefore went in aU innocence, supposing that I should see nobody but the famUy circle of my ac quaintances. Quite to my astonishment, I found a party of between thu-ty and forty people. Ladies sitting with their bonnets on, as in a morning caU. It was impossible, however, to feel more than a momentary embarrassment in the friend ly warmth and cordiaUty of the circle by whom we were surrounded. The EngUsh are called cold and stiff in their manners ; I ¦ had always heard they were so, but I certainly saw nothing of it here. A circle of famUy relatives could not have re ceived us with more warmth and kindness. The remark which I made mentaUy, as my eye passed around the circle, was — Why, these people are just Uke home ; they look Uke us, and the tone of sentiment and feeling is precisely such as I have been accustomed to ; I mean with the exception of the antislavery question. That question has, from the very first, been, in England, a deeply reUgious movement. It was conceived and carried on by men of devotional habits, in the same spirit in which SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 23 the work of foreign missions was undertaken in our own country ; by just such eamest, self-denying, devout men as Samuel J. MUls and Jeremiah Evarts. It was encountered by the same contempt and opposition, in the outset, from men of merely worldly habits and princi ples ; and to this day it retains that hold on the devotional mind of the English nation that the foreign mission cause does in America. Liverpool was at first to the antislavery cause nearly what New York has been with us. Its commercial interests were largely implicated in the slave trade, and the virulence of opposition towards the first movers of the antislavery reform in Liverpool was about as great as it is now against aboU- tionists in Charleston. When Clarkson first came here to prosecute his inquiries into the subject, a mob coUected around him, and endeavored to throw him off the dock into the water ; he was rescued by a gentleman, some of whose descendants I met on this occasion. The father of our host. Mi-. Cropper, was one of the first and most efficient supporters of the cause in Liverpool ; and the whole circle was composed of those who had taken a deep interest in that struggle. The wife of our host was the daughter of the celebrated Lord Chief Justice Denman, a ¦man who, for many years, stood unrivaUed, at the head of the legal mind in England, and who, with a generous ardor seldom equqjled, devoted all his energies to this sacred cause. When the publication of Uncle Tom's Cabin turned the attention of the British pubUc to the existing horrors of slavery in America, some paUiations of the system appeared in English papers. Lord Denman, though then in deUcate 24 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. health and advanced years, wrote a series of letters upon the subject — an exertion w'hich entirely prostrated his before feeble health. In one of the addresses made at table, a very feeling aUusion was made to Lord Denman's labors, and also to those of the honored father of the two Messrs. Cropper. As breakfast parties are things which we do not have in America, perhaps mother would Uke to know just how they are managed. The hour is generaUy somewhere between nine and twelve, and the whole idea and spirit of the thing is that of an informal and social gathering. Ladies keep their bonnets on, and are not dressed in full toUet. On this occasion we sat and chatted together sociaUy tiU the whole party was assembled in the drawing room, and then breakfast was announced. Each gentleman had a lady as signed him, and we walked into the dining room, where stood the tables tastefully adomed with flowers, and spread with an abundant cold coUation, while tea and coffee were passed round by servants. In each plate was a card, containing the name of the person for whom it was designed. I took my place by the side of the Rev. Dr. McNiel, one of the most celebrated clergymen of the estabUshed church in Liv erpool. The conversation was flowing, free, and friendly. The old reminiscences of the antislavery conflict in England were touchingly recaUed, and the warmest sympathy was expressed for those in America who are carrying on the same cause. In one thing I was most agreeably disappointed. I had been told that the Christians of England were intolerant and unreasonable in their opinions on this subject; that they could not be made to understand the pecuUar difficulties which beset it in America, and that they therefore made no distinc- SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 25 tion and no allowance in their censures. AU this I found, so far as this circle were concemed, to be strikingly untrue. They appeared to be pecuUarly affectionate in their feeUngs as regarded our country ; to have the highest appreciation of, and the deepest sympathy with, our reUgious community, and to be extremely desirous to assist us in our difficulties. I also found them remarkably weU informed upon the subject. They keep their eyes upon our papers, our pubUc documents and speeches in Congress, and are as weU advised in regard to the progress of the moral conflict as our Foreign Mis sionary Society is with the state of affairs in Hindostan and Burmah. Several present spoke of the part which England original ly had in planting slavery in America, as placing EngUsh Christians under a solemn responsibiUty to bring every pos sible moral influence to bear for its extinction. Nevertheless, they seem to be the farthest possible from an unkind or de nunciatory spirit, even towai-ds those most deeply impUcated. The remarks made by Dr. McNiel to me were a fair sample of thc spirit and attitude of all present. " I have been trying, Mrs. S.," he said, " to bring my mind inlo the attitude of those Cluistians at the south who defend the institution of slavei-y. There ai-e real Christians there who do this — are there not ? " I replied, that undoubtedly there were some most amiable and Christian people who defend slavery on principle, just as there had been some to defend evei-y form of despotism. " Do give me some idea of the views they take ; it is some thing to me so inconceivable. I am utterly at a loss how it can be made in any way plausible.'' I then stated that the most plausible view, and that which VOL. I. 3 26 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. seemed to have the most force with good men, was one which represented the institution of slavery as a sort of wardship or guardian relation, by which an inferior race were brought under the watch and care of a superior race to be instructed in Christianity. He then inquired if there was any system of reUgious instruction actuaUy pursued. In reply to this, I gave him some sketch of the operations for the reUgious instruction of the negroes, which had been carried on by the Presbyterian and other denominations. I remarked that many good people who do not take very ex tended views, fixing their attention chiefly on the efforts which they are making for the reUgious instruction of slaves, are bUnd to the sin and injustice of aUowing their legal position to remain what it is. " But how do they shut their eyes to the various cruelties of the System, — the separation of famUies — the domestic slave trade ? " I replied, " In part, by not inquiring into them. The best kind of people are, in general, those who know least of the cruelties of the system ; they never witness them. As in the city of London or Liverpool there may be an amount of crime and suffering which many residents may Uve years without seeing or knowing, so it is in the slave states." Every person present appeared to be in that softened and charitable frame of mind which disposed them to make every aUowance for the situation of Christians so pecuUarly tempted, while, at the same time, there was the most earnest concern, in view of the dishonor brought upon Christianity by the defence of such a system. One other thins; I noticed, which was an agreeable disap- SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 27 pointment to me. I had been told that there was no social intercourse between the estabUshed church and dissenters. In this party, however, were people of many different denom inations. Our host belongs to the estabUshed church ; his brother, -with whom we are visiting, is a Baptist, and their father was a Friend ; and there appeared to be the utmost social cordiaUty. Whether I shaU find this uniformly the case wiU appear in time. After the breakfast party was over, I found at the door an array of children of -the poor, belonging to a school kept under the superintendence of Mrs. E, Cropper, and caUed, as is customary here, a ragged school. The chUdren, how ever, were any thing but ragged, being tidily dressed, remark ably clean, with glowing cheeks and bright eyes. I must say, so far as I have seen them, English children have a much healthier appearance than those of America. By the side of their bright bloom ours look pale and faded. Another school of the same kind is kept in this neighbor hood, under the auspices of Sir George Stephen, a conspicu ous advocate of the antislavery cause. I thought the fair patroness of this school seemed not a little delighted with the appearance of her proteges, as they sung, with great enthusiasm, Jane Taylor's hymn, com mencing, — ' I thank tho goodness and tho grace That on my hirth have smiled, And made me in these Christian days A happy English child." AU the Uttle rogues were quite famiUar with Topsy and Eva, and aufait in the fortunes of Uncle Tom ; so that, being introduced as the maternal relative of these characters, I 28 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. seemed to find favor in their eyes. And when one of the speakers congratulated them that they were bom in a land where no cliUd could be bought or sold, they responded with enthusiastic cheers — cheers which made me feel rather sad ; but StiU I could not quai-rel with EngUsh people for taking aU the pride and aU the comfort which this inspiritmg truth can convey. They had a hard enough struggle in rooting up the old weed of slavery, to justify them in rejoicing in their freedom. WeU, the day wiU come in America, as«[ trust, when as much can be said for us. After the children were gone came a succession of caUs; some from very aged people, the veterans of the old antislar very cause. I was astonished and overwhelmed by the fervor of feeUng some of them manifested ; there seemed to be some thing almost prophetic in the enthusiasm with which they expressed their hope of our final success in America. This excitement, though very pleasant, was wearisome, and I was glad of an opportunity after dinner to rest myself, by ram bling uninterrupted, with my friends, through the beautiful grounds of the Dingle. Two nice little boys were my squires on this occasion, one of whom, a sturdy Uttle feUow, on being asked his name, gave it to me in full as Joseph Babington Macaulay, and I learned that his mother, by a former marriage, had been the -wife of Macaulay's brother. Uncle Tom Macaulay, I found, was a favorite character with the young people. Master Harry conducted me through the walks to the conservatories, aU brUUant with azaleas and aU sorts of flowers, and then through a long waUi on the banks of the Mersey. Here the wild flowers attracted my attention, as being so SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 29 different from those of our own country. Their daisy is not our flower, with its wide, plaited ruff and yeUow centre. The English daisy is " The wee modest crimson-tipped flower," which Burns celebrates. It is what we raise in greenhouses, and caU the mountain daisy. Its effect, growing profusely about fields and grass plats, is very beautiful. We read much, among the poets, of the primrose, " Earliest daughter of the Spring. This flower is one, also, which we cultivate in gardens to some extent. The outline of it is as follows : The hue a deUcate straw color ; it grows in tufts in shady places, and has a pure, serious look, which reminds one of the line of Shakspeare — " Pale primroses, wiiich die unmarried." It has also the faintest and most ethereal perfume, — a per fume that seems to come and go in the air like music ; and you perceive it at a Uttle distance from a tuft of them, when you would not if you gathered and smelled them. On the whole, the primrose is a poet's and a painter's flower. An artist's eye would notice an exquisite har mony between the yellow-green hue of its leaves and tbe 30 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. tint of its blossoms. I do not wonder that it has been so great a favorite among the poets. It is just such a flower as Mozart and Raphael would have loved. Then there is the bluebell, a bulb, which also grows in deep shades. It is a Utttle pur ple bell, with a narrow green leaf, like a ribbon. We often '^ read in EngUsh stories, of the gorse and furze ; these are two names for the same plant, a low bush, with strong, prickly leaves, growing much like a juniper. The contrast of its very briUiant yellow, pea-shaped blossoms, with the dark green of its leaves, is very beautiful. It grows here in hedges and on commons, and is thought rather a plebeian affair. I think it would make quite an addition to our garden shrubbery. Possibly it might make as much sensation with us as our mullein does in foreign greenhouses. After rambling a while, we came to a beautiful summer house, placed in a retired spot, so as to command a view of the Mersey River. I think they told me that it was Lord Den man's favorite seat. There we sat down, and in common with the young gentlemen and ladies of the famUy, had quite a pleasant talk together. Among other things we talked about the question which is now agitating the public mind a good deal, — Whether it is expedient to open the Crystal Palace to the people on Sunday. They said that this course was much urged by some phUanthropists, on the ground that it was the only day when the working classes could find any leisiire to visit it, £),nd that it seemed hard to shut them out SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 31 entirely from aU the opportunities and advantages which they might thus derive ; that to exclude the laborer from recrea tion on the Sabbath, was the same as saying that he should never have any recreation. I asked, why the philanthropists could not urge employers to give their workmen a part of Saturday for this purpose ; as it seemed to me unchristian to drive trade so that the laboring man had no time but Sunday for intellectual and social recreation. We rather came to the conclusion that this was the right course ; whether the people of England wUl, is quite another matter. The grounds of the Dingle embrace three cottages ; those of the two Messrs. Cropper, and that of a son, who is manied to a daughter of Dr. Arnold. I rather think this way of rel atives living together is more common here in England than it is in America ; and there is more idea of home permanence connected with the family dwelling-place than with us, where the country is so wide, and causes of change and removal so frequent. A man buUds a house in England with the expec tation of living in it and leaving it to his children ; whUe we slfcd our houses in America as easily as a snaU does his sheU. We live a while in Boston, and then a while in New York, and then, perhaps, turn up at Cincinnati. Scarcely any body with us is living where they expect to Uve and die. The man that dies in the house he was bom in is a wonder. There is something pleasant in the permanence and repose of the Englisih family estate, which we, in America, know very little of. All which is apropos to our having finished our walk, and got back to the ivy-covered porch again. The next day at breakfast, it was arranged that we should take a drive out to Speke HaU, an old mansion, wiiich is considered a fine specimen of ancient house architecture. So 32 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. the carriage was at the door. It was a cool, breezy, AprU morning, but there was an abundance of wrappers and car riage blankets provided to keep us comfortable. I must say, by the by, that EngUsh housekeepers are bountiful in their provision for carriage comfort. Every household has a store of warm, loose over garments, which are offered, if needed, to the guests ; and each carriage is provided with one or two blankets, manufactured and sold expressly for this use, to envelope one's feet and limbs ; besides aU which, should the weather be cold, comes out a long stone reservoir, made flat on both sides, and fiUed with hot water, for foot stools. This is an improvement on the primitive simplicity of hot bricks, and even on the tin foot stove, which has flourished in New England. Being thus provided with aU things necessary for comfort, we rattled merrUy away, and I, remembering that I was in England, kept my eyes wide open to see what I could see. The hedges of the fields were just budding, and the green showed itself on them, like a thin gauze veU. These hedges are not aU so weU kept and trimmed as I expected to find thefn. Some, it is true, are cut very carefuUy ; these are generaUy hedges to ornamental grounds ; but many of those which separate the fields straggle and sprawl, and have some high bushes and some low ones, and, in short, are no more Uke a, hedge than many rows of bushes that we have af home. But such as they are, they are the only dividing Unes of the fields, and it is certainly a more picturesque mode of division than our stone or worm fences. Outside of every hedge, towards the street, there is generaUy a ditch, and at the bottom of the hedge is the favorite nestling-place for aU sorts of wUd flow ers. I remember reading in stories about children trying to SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 33 crawl through a gap in the hedge to get at flowers, and tum bUng into a ditch on the other side, and 'I now saw exactly how they could do it. As we drive we pass by many beautiful estabUshments, about of the quaUty of our handsomest country houses, but whose grounds are kept with a precision and exactness rarely to bo seen among us. We cannot get the gardeners who are qualified to do it ; and if we could, the painstaking, slow way of proceeding, and the habit of creeping thoroughness, which are necessary to accompUsh such results, die out in America. Nevertheless, such grounds are exceedingly beau tiful to look upon, and I was much obliged to the owners of these places for keeping their gates hospitably open, as seems to be the custom here. After a drive of seven or eight mUes, we alighted in front of Speke HaU. This house is a specimen of the old fortified houses of England, and was once fitted up with a moat and drawbridge, aU in approved feudal style. It was buUt some where about the year 1500. The sometime moat was now fuU of smooth, green grass, and the drawbridge no longer remains. This was the first really old thing that we had seen since our aniviU in England. We came up first to a low, arched, stone door, and knocked with a great old-fashioned knocker ; this brought no answer but a treble and bass duet from a couple of dogs inside ; so we opened the door, and saw a squai-e court, paved with round stones, and a dark, solitary yew tree in the centre. Here in England, I think, they have vegetable creations made on purpose to go with old, dusky buildings ; and this yew tree is one of them. It has altogether a most goblin-like, bewitched air, -with its dusky black leaves 34 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOEEIGN LANDS. and ragged branches, throwing themselves straight out with odd twists and angular Unes, and might put one in mind of an old raven with some of his feathers puUed out, or a black cat with her hair stroked the wrong way, or any other strange, uncanny thing. Besides ' this they Uve almost forever ; for when they have grown so old that any respectable tree ought to be thinking of dying, they only take another twist, and so live on aaother hundred years. I saw some in England seven hundred years old, and they had grown queerer every century. It is a species of evergreen, and its leaf resembles our hemlock, only it is longer. This sprig gives you some idea of its general form. It is always planted about churches and grave yards ; a kind of dismal emblem of immortality. This sepulchral 'r^^\ ,'/ old tree and the bass and treble ^v^^j*— dogs were the only occupants of the court. One of these, a great surly mastiff, barked out of his kennel on one side, and the other, a little wiry terrier, out of his on the opposite side, and both strained on their chains, as if they would enjoy makin"- even more decided demonstrations if they could. There was an aged, mossy fountain for holy water by the side of the wall, in which some weeds were growino-. A door in the house was soon opened by a decent-looking servino- woman, to whom we communicated our desire to see the hall. We were shown into a large dining haU with a stone floor, wainscoted with carved oak, almost as black as ebony. There were some pious sentences and moral reflections inscribed in old English text, carved over the doors, and lUse a cornice SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 35 round the ceiUng, which was also of carved oak. Their gen eral drift was, to say that life is short, and to caU for watch fulness and prayer. The fireplace of the haU yawned like a great cavem, and nothing else, one would think, than a cart load of westem sycamores could have suppUed an appropriate fire. A great two-handed sword of some ancestor hung over the fireplace. On taking it down it reached to C 's shoulder, who, you know, is six feet high. We went into a sort of sitting room, and looked out through a window, latticed with Uttle diamond panes, upon a garden wildly beautiful. The lattice was aU wreathed round with jessamines. The fumiture of this room was modern, and it seemed the more unique from its contrast with the old archi tecture. We went up stairs to see the chambers, and passed through a long, narrow, black oak corridor, whose sUppery boards had the authentic ghostly squeak to them. There was a chamber, hung with old, faded tapestry of Scripture subjects. In this chamber there was behind the tapestry a door, which, being opened, displayed a stau-case, that led deUghtfuUy off to nobody knows where. The furniture was black oak, carved, in the most elaborate manner, with cherubs' heads and otlier good and solemn subjects, calculated to produce a ghostly state of mind. And, to crown all, we heard that there was a haunted chamber, which was not to be opened, where a white lady appeared and walked at aU approved hours. Now, only think what a foundation for a story is here. If our Hawthorne could conjure up such a thing as the Seven Gables in one of our prosaic country towns, what would he have done if he had Uved here ? Now he is obUged to get his ghostly images by looking through smoked glass at our 36 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. square, cold reaUties; but one such old place as this is a standing romance. Perhaps it may add to the effect to say, that the owner of the house is a bachelor, who lives there very retired, and employs himself much in reading. The housekeeper, who showed us about, indulged us with a view of the kitchen, whose snowy, sanded floor and resplen dent poUshed copper and tin, were sights for a housekeeper to take away in her heart of hearts. The good woman pro duced her copy of Uncle Tom, and begged the favor of my autograph, which I gave, thinking it quite a happy thing to be able to do a favor at so cheap a rate. After going over the house we wandered through the grounds, which are laid out with the same picturesque mix ture of the past and present. There was a fine grove, under whose shadows we walked, picking primroses, and otherwise enacting the poetic, tiU it was time to go. As we passed out, we were again saluted with a feu de joie by the two fideU- ties at the door, which we took in very good part, since it is always respectable to be thorough in whatever you are set to do. Coming home we met with an accident to the carriage, which obUged us to get out and walk some distance. I was glad enough of it, because it gave me a better opportunity for seeing the country. We stopped at a cottage to get some rope, and a young woman came out with that beautiful, clear complexion which I so much admire here in England; lit erally her cheeks were Uke damask roses. I told Isa I wanted to see as much of the interior of the cottages as I could ; and so, as we were walking onward to ward home, we managed to caU once or twice, on the excuse of asking the way and distance. The exterior was very neat, SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 37 being built of brick or stone, and each had attached to it a Uttle flower garden. Isa said that the cottagers often offered them a slice of bread or tumbler of milk. They have a way here of buUding the cottages two or three in a block together, which struck me as different from our New England manner, where, in the country, every house stands detached. In the evening I went into Liverpool, to attend a party of friends of the antislavery cause. In the course of the even ing, Mr. Stowe was requested to make some remarks. Among other things he spoke upon the support the free part of the world give to slavery, by the purchase of the produce of slave labor ; and, in particular, on the great quantity of slave- grown cotton purchased by England ; suggesting it as a sub ject for inquiry, whether this cannot be avoided. One or two gentlemen, who are largely concerned in the manufacture and importation of cotton, spoke to him on the subject afterwards, and said it was a thing which ought to be very seriously considered. It is probable that the cotton trade of Great Britain is the great essential item which supports slavery, and such considerations ought not, therefore, to be without their results. When I was going away, the lady of the house said that the servants were anxious to see me ; so I came into the dressing room to give them an opportunity. While at Mr. C.'s, also, I had once or twice been caUed out to see servants, who had come in to visit those of the famUy. All of them had read Uncle Tom's Cabin, and were fuU of sympathy. Generally speaking, the servants seem to me quite a superior class to what are employed in that capacity with us. They look very intelligent, are dressed with great VOL. I. 4 38 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. neatness, and though their manners are very much more def erential than those of servants in our country, it appears to be a difference arising quite as much from self-respect and a sense of propriety as from servihty. Every body's manners are more deferential in England than in America. The next day -vfaa appointed to leave Liverpool. It had been arranged that, before leaving, we shotdd meet the ladies of the Negroes' Friend Society, an association formed at the time of the original antislavery agitation in England. We went in the carriage with our friends Mr. and Mrs. E. Crop- pen On the way they were conversing upon the labors of Mrs. Chisholm, the celebrated female philanthropist, whose efforts for the benefit of emigrants are awakening a very gen eral interest among all classes in England. They said there had been hesitation on the part of some good people, in regard to cooperating with her, because she is a Roman Catholic. It was agreed among us, that the great humanities of the present day are a proper ground on which all sects can unite, and that if any feared the extension of wrong senti ments, tftej had only to supply emigrant ships more abun dantly with the Bible. Mr. C. said that this is a movement exciting very extensive interest, and that they hoped Mrs. Chisholm would visit Liverpool before long. The meeting was a very interesting one. The style of feeling expressed in aU the remarks was tempered by a deep and earnest remembrance of the share which England origi naUy had in planting the evil of slavery in the civUized world, and her consequent obligation, as a Christian nation, now not to cease her efforts until the evU is extirpated, not merely from her own soil, but from all lands. The feeling towards America was respectful and friendly. BUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 39 and the utmost sympathy was expressed with her in the diffi culties with which she is environed by this evil. The tone of the meeting was deeply earnest and religious. They pre sented us with a sum to be appropriated for the benefit of the slave, in any way we might think proper. A great number of friends accompanied us to the cars, and a beautiful bouquet of flowers was sent, with a very affecting message from a sick gentleman, who, from the retirement of his chamber, felt a desire to testify his sympathy. Now, if aU tliis enthusiasm for freedom and humanity, in the person of the American slave, is to be set down as good for nothing in England, because there are evils there in socie ty which require redress, what then shaU we say of ourselves ? Have we not been enthusiastic for freedom in the person of the Greek, the Hungarian, and the Pole, whUe protecting a much worse despotism than any from which they suffer ? Do we not consider it our duty to print and distribute the Bible in aU foreign lands, when there are three mUlions of people among whom we dai-o not disti-ibute it at home, and whom it is a penal offence even to teach to read it ? Do we not send re monstrances to Tuscany, about the Madiai, when women are imprisoned in Virginia for teaching slaves to read ? Is aU this hypocritical, insincere, and impertinent in us ? Are we never to send another missionary, or make another appeal for foreign lands, till we have abolished slavery at home ? For my part, I think that imperfect and inconsistent outbursts of generosity and feeling ai-e a gi-eat deal better than none. No nation, no individual is whoUy consistent and Christian ; but let us not in ourselvcs or in other nations repudiate the truest and most beautiful developments of humamty, because we have not yet; attained perfection. 40 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. All experience has proved that the sublime spirit of foreign missions always is suggestive of home phUanthropies, and that those whose heart has been enlarged by the love of aU mankind are always those who are most efficient in their own particular sphere. SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 41 LETTER III. Glasqow, April 16, 1853. Dear Aunt E. : — You shall have my earliest Scotch letter ; for I am sure nobody can sympathize in the emotions of the first approach to Scotland as you can. A country dear to us by the memory of the dead and of the living ; a country whose history and literature, interesting enough of itself, has become to us stiU more so, because the reading and leaming of it formed part of our communion for many a social hour, with friends long parted from earth. The views of Scotland, which lay on my mother's table, even whUe I was a little chUd, and in poring over which I spent so many happy, dreamy hours, — the Scotch ballads, which were the deUght of our evening fireside, and which seemed almost to melt the soul out of me, before I was old enough to understand their words, — the songs of Burns, wiiich had been a household treasure among us, — the en chantments of Scott, — all these dimly returned upon me. It was the result of them aU which I felt in nerve and brain. And, by the by, that puts me in mind of one thing ; and that is, how much of our pleasure in Uterature results from its reflection on us from other minds. As we advance in life, the Uterature which has charmed us in the circle of our friends becomes endeared to us from the reflected remembrance of them, of their individuaUties, their opinions, and their sympa- 4* 42 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. thies, so that our memory of it is a many-colored cord, drawn from many minds. So in coming near to Scotland, I seemed to feel not only my own individuality, but aU that my friends would have felt, had they been with me. For sometimes we seem to be en compassed, as by a cloud, with a sense of the sympathy of the absent and the dead. We left Liverpool -with hearts a Uttle tremulous and ex cited by the vibration of an atmosphere of universal sympa thy and kindness. We found ourselves, at length, shut from the warm adieus of our friends, in a snug compartment of the raUi-oad car. The EngUsh cars are models of comfort and good keeping. There are six seats in a compartment, luxu riously cushioned and nicely carpeted, and six was exactly the number of our party. Nevertheless, so obstinate is cus tom that we averred at first that we prefened our American cars, deficient as they are in many points of neatness and luxury, because they are so much more social. " Dear me," said Mr. S., " six Yankees shut up in a car together ! Not one EngUshman to tell us any thing about the country ! Just like the six old ladies that made their Uving by taking tea at each other's houses." But that is the way here in England : every arrangement in travelling is designed to maintain that privacy and reserve which is the dearest and most sacred part of an EngUsliman's nature. Things are so ananged here that, if a man pleases, he can travel all through England with his family, and keep the circle an unbroken unit, ha-ving just as Uttle communica tion with any thing outside of it as in his own house. From one of these sheltered apartments in a railroad car, he can pass to preengaged parlors and chambers in the hotel. SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 43 with his own separate table, and all his domestic manners and peculiarities unbroken. In fact, it is a Uttle compact home traveUing about. Now, aU this is very charming to people who know already as much about a country as they want to know ; but it foUows from it that a stranger might travel all through England, from one end to the other and not be on conversing terms with a person in it. He may be at the same hotel, in the same train with people able to give him aU imaginable information, yet never touch them at any practicable point of communion. This is more especiaUy the case if his party, as ours was, is just large enough to fiU the whole apartment. As to the comforts of the cars, it is to be said, that for the same price you can get far more comfortable riding in Ameri ca. Their first class cars are beyond aU praise, but also be yond aU price ; their second class are comfortless, cushionless, and uninviting. Agreeably with our theory of democratic equality, we have a general car, not so complete as the one, nor so bare as the other, where aU ride together ; and if the traveller in thus riding sees things that occasionally annoy him, when he remembers that the whole population, from thc highest to the lowest, are accommodated here together, he will certainly see hopeful uidications in the general comfort, order, and respectabUity which prevaU ; aU which we talked over most patrioticaUy together, whUe we were lamenting that there was not a seventh to our party, to instruct us in the localities. Every thing upon the raUroad proceeds with systematic accuracy. There is no chance for the most careless person to commit a blunder, or make a mistake. At the proper time the conductor marches every body into their places and locks 44 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. them in, gives the word, " AH right," and away we go. Some body has remarked, very characteristicaUy, that the starting word of the EngUsh is " aU right," and that of the Americans " go ahead." Away we go through Lancashire, wide awake, looking out on aU sides for any signs of antiquity. In being thus whirled through EngUsh scenery, I became conscious of a new under standing of the spirit and phraseology of EngUsh poetry. There are many phrases and expressions with which we have been famUiar from chUdhood, and which, we suppose, in a kind of indefinite way, we understand, which, after aU, when we come on EngUsh ground, start into a new significance : take, for instance, these Unes from L'AUegro : — " Sometimes walking, not unseen, By hedge-row elms on hillocks green. * * * * Straight mine eye hath caught new pleasures, While the landscape round it measures ; Russet lawns and fallows gray, Where the nibbling flocks do stray ; Mountains, on whose barren breast The laboring clouds do often rest ; Meadows trim with daisies pied. Shallow brooks and rivers wide : Towers and battlements it sees Bosom'd high in tufted trees." Now, these hedge-row elms. I had never even asked myself what they were tUl I saw them ; but you know, as I said in a former letter, the hedges are not aU of them carefully cut ; in fact many of them axe only irregular rows of bushes, where, although the hawthorn is the staple element, yet firs, and brambles, and many other interlopers put in their claim, and SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 45 they aU grow up together in a kind of straggling unity ; and in the hedges trees are often set out, particularly elms, and have a very pleasing effect. Then, too, the trees have more of that rounding outUne which is expressed by the word " bosomed." But here we are, right under the waUs of Lancaster, and Mr. S. wakes me up by quoting, " Old John o' Gaunt, time-honored Lancaster." " Time-honored," said I ; "it looks as fresh as if it had been built yesterday : you do not mean to say that is the real old castle ? " " To be sure, it is the very old castle^ buUt in the reign of Edward IIL, by John of Gaunt." It stands on the summit of a hUl, seated regally like a queen upon a throne, and every part of it looks as fresh, and sharp, and clear, as if it were the work of modem times. It 'is used now for a county jail. We have but a moment to stop or admire — the mercUess steam car drives on. We have a little talk about the feudal times, and the old past days ; when again the cry goes up, — " O, there's something ! 'Wliat's that ? " " 0, that is Cariisle." " Carlisle ! " said I ; " what, the CarUsle of Scott's baUad ? " "What ballad?" " Wliy, don't you remember, in the Lay of the Last Mm- strel, the song of Albert Graeme, which has something about Carlisle's wall in every verse ? * It was an EngUsh laydie bright When sun shines fair on Carlisle wall, And she would marry a Scottish knight. For love will still be lord of all.' I used to read this when I was a chUd, and wonder what ' Carlisle wall ' was.'' 46 ¦SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDSi Cai-Usle is one of the most ancient cities in England, dating quite back to the time of the Romans. Wonderful! How these Romans left their mark every where ! CarUsle has also its ancient castie, the lofty, massive tower of which forms a striking feature of the town. This castle was built by WUUam Rufus. David, King of Scots, and Robert Bruce both tried their hands upon it, in the good old times, when England and Scotland were a mu tual robbery association. Then the castle of the town was its great feature ; castles were every thmg in those ' days. Now the castle has gone to decay, and stands only for a curi- SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 47 osity, and the cotton factory has come up in its place. This place is famous for cottons and ginghams, and moreover for a celebrated biscuit bakery. So goes the world, — the Uvely, vigorous shodts of the present springing out of the old, moul dering trunk of the past. Mr. S. was in an ecstasy about an old church, a splendid Gothic, in which Paley preached. He was archdeacon of Car Usle. We stopped here for a Uttle whUe to take dinner. In a large, handsome room tables were set out, and we sat down to a regular meal. One sees nothing of a town from a railroad station, since it seems to be an invariable rule, not only here, but all over Europe, to locate them so that you can see nothing from them. By the by, I forgot to say, among the historical recoUections of this place, that it was the first stopping-place of Queen Mary, after her fatal flight into England. The rooms which she occupied are still shown in the castle, and there are inter esting letters and documents extant from lords whom Eliza beth sent here to visit her, in which they record her beauty, her heroic sentiments, and even her dress ; so strong was the fascination in which she held aU who approached her. Car lisle is the scene of the denouement of Ciuy Mannering, and it is from this town that Lord Carlisle gets his title. And now keep up a bright lookout for ruins and old houses. Mr. S., whose eyes are always in every placc, aUowed none of us to slumber, but looking out, first on his own side and then on ours, called our attention to every visible thing. If he had been ai)pointed on a mission of inquiry he could not have been more zealous and faithful, and I began to think that our desire for an English cicerone was quite superfluous. And now we pass Gretna Green, famous in story — that 48 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. momentous place which marks the commencement of Scot land. It is a Uttle straggUng viUage, and there is a road side inn, which has been the scene of innumerable Gretna Green marriages. Owing to the fact that the Scottish law of marriage is far more liberal in its construction than the EngUsh, this place has been the refuge of distressed lovers from time immemo rial ; and although the practice of escaping here is universaUy condemned as very naughty and improper, yet, like every other impropriety, it is kept in countenance by very respecta ble people. Two lord chanceUors have had the amiable weak ness to faU into this snare, and one lord chanceUor's son ; so says the guide book, which is our Koran for the time being. It says, moreover, that it would be easy to add a lengthened list of distingues married at Gretna Green; but these lord chanceUors (Erskine and Eldon) are quoted as being the most melancholy monuments. What shaU meaner mortals do, when law itself, in aU her majesty, wig, gown, and aU, goes by the board? WeU, we are in Scotland at last, and now our pulse rises as the sun decUnes in the west. We catch glimpses of the Solway Frith, and talk about Redgauntlet. One says, " Do you remember the scene on the sea shore, with which it opens, describing the rising of the tide ? " And says another, " Don't you remember those lines in the Young Lochinvar song ? — 'Love swells like the Solway, but ebbs Uke its tide.' " I wonder hpw many authors it wUl take to enchant our country from Maine to New Orleans, as every foot of ground is enchanted here in Scotland. SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 49 The sun went down, and night drew on ; still we were in Scotland. Scotch ballads, Scotch tunes, and Scotch Uterature were in the ascendant. We sang " Auld Lang Syne," " Scots wha ha'," and " Boimie Doon," and then, changing the key, sang Dundee, Elgin, and Martyrs. " Take care," said Mr. S. ; " don't get too much excited." " Ah," said I, " this is a thing that comes only once in a lifetime ; do let us have the comfort of it. We shaU never come into Scotland for thefirst time again." " Ah," said another, " how 1 wish Walter Scott was alive ! " WhUe we were thus at the fusion point of enthusiasm, the cars stopped at Lockerby, where the real Old MortaUty is buried. All was dim and dark outside, but we soon became conscious that there was quite a number coUected, peering into the window, and, with a strange kind of thrUl, I heard my name inquired for in the Scottish accent. I went to the window; there were men, women, and chUdren there, and haud after hand was presented, with the words, " Ye're wel come to Scotland ! " Then they inquired for, and shook hands with, aU the party, having in some mysterious manner got the knowledge of who they were, even down to little G , whom they took to be my son. Was it not pleasant, when I had a heart so warm for this old country ? I sliaU never forget the thrUl of those words, " Ye're welcome to Scotland," nor the " Gude night." After that we found similar welcomes in many succeeding stopping-places ; and though I did wave a towel out of the window, instead of a pocket handkerchief, and commit other awkwardnesses, from not knowing how to play my part, yet I fancied, after aU, that Scotiand and we were coming on weU together. Who the good souls were that were thus watching VOL. I. 5 50 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. for us through the night, I am sure I do not know; but that they were of the " one blood," which unites aU the fam ilies of the earth, I felt. As we came towards Glasgow, we saw, upon a high hiU, what we supposed to be a castle on fire — great volumes of smoke roUing up, and fire looking out of arched windows. " Dear me, what a conflagration ! " we all exclaimed. We had not gone very far before we saw another, and then, on the opposite side of the car, another stUl. " Why, it seems to me the country is all on fire." " I should think," said Mr. S., " if it was in old times, that there had been a raid from the Highlands, and set aU the houses on fire." " Or they inight be beacons," suggested C. To this some one answered out of the Lay of the Last Minstrel, — " Sweet Teviot, by thy silver tide The glaring bale-iires blaze no more." As we drew near to Glasgow these Uluminations increased, tiU the whole air was red with the glare of them. " What can they be ? " " Dear me," said Mr. S., in a tone of sudden recoUection, " it's the iron works ! Don't you know Glasgow is celebrated for its iron works ? " So, after all, in these peaceful fires of the iron works, we got an idea how the country might have looked in the old picturesque times, when the HiglJanders came down and set the Lowlands on fire ; such scenes as are commemorated in the words of Roderick Dhu's song : — SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 51 " Proudly our pibroch has thriUed in Glen Fruin, And Banmachar's groans to our slogan repUed ; Glen Luss and Ross Dhu, they are smoking in ruins, And the best of Loch Lomond Ues dead on her side." To be sure the fires of iron founderies are much less pic turesque than the old beacons, and the clink of hammers than the clash of claymores ; but the most devout worshipper of the middle ages would hardly wish to change them. Dimly, by the flickering light of these furnaces, we see the approach to the old city of Glasgow. There, we are arrived ! Friends are waiting in the station house. Eamest, eager, friendly faces, ever so many. Warm greetings, kindly words. A crowd parting in the middle, through which we were con ducted into a carriage, and loud cheers of welcome, sent a throb, as the voice of living Scotland. I looked out of the carriage, as we drove on, and saw, by the Ught of a lantern, Argyle Street It was past twelve o'clock when I found myself in a warm, cozy parlor, with friends, whom I have ever since been glad to remember. In a little time we were all safely housed m our hospitable apart ments, and sleep fell on me for the first time in Scotland. 52 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. LETTER IV. Dear Aunt E. : — The next moming I awoke wom and weary, and scarce could the charms of the social Scotch breakfast restore me. I say Scotch, for we had many viands pecuUarly national. The smoking porridge, or parritch, of oatmeal, which is the great staple dish throughout Scotland. Then there was the bannock, a thin, wafer-Uke cake of the same material. My friend laughingly said when he passed it, " You are in the ' land o' cakes,' remember." There was also some herring, as nice a Scottish fish as ever wore scales, besides dainties innumerable which were not national. Our friend and host was Mr. BaiUie Paton. I beUeve that it is to his suggestion in a pubUc meeting, that we owe the invitation which brought us to Scotland. By the by, I should say that " baUUe " seems to correspond to what we caU a member of the city councU. Mr. Paton told us, that they had expected us earUer, and that the day before quite a party of friends met at his house to see us, among whom was good old Dr. Wardlaw. After breakfast the calUng began. First, a friend of the family, with three beautiful children, the youngest of whom was the bearer of a handsomely bound album, containing a pressed coUection of the sea mosses of the Scottish coast, very vivid and beautiful. If the bloom of EngUsh children appeared to me wonderful, SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 53 I seemed to find the same thing intensified, if possible, in Scotland. The children are brUUant as pomegranate blos soms, and their vivid beauty called forth unceasing admiration. Nor is it merely the chUdren of the rich, or of the higher classes, that are thus gifted. I have seen many a group of ragged urchins in the streets and closes with aU the high coloring of Rubens, and all his fulness of outUne. Why is it that we admire ragged chUdren on canvas so much more than the same in nature ? All this day is a confused dream to me of a dizzy and over whelming kind. So many letters that it took C from nine in the morning till two in the afternoon to read and an swer them in the shortest manner ; letters from aU classes of people, high and low, rich and poor, in all shades and styles of composition, poetry and prose ; some mere outbursts of feeling ; some invitations ; some advice and suggestions ; some requests and inquiries ; some presenting books, or flowers, or fi-uit. Then came, in their turn, deputations from Paisley, Green ock, Dundee, Aberdeen, Edinburgh, and Belfast in Ireland ; calls of friendship, invitations of all descriptions to go every where, and to see every thing, and to stay in so many places. One kind, venerable minister, with his lovely daughter, offered me a retreat in his quiet manse on the beautiful shores of the Clyde. For all these kindnesses, what could I give in return ? There was scarce time for even a grateful thought on each. People have often said to me that it must have beep, an ex ceeding bore. For my part, I could not think of regarding it so. It only oppressed me with an unutterable sadness. To me there is always something interesting and beautiful 5* 54 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. about a universal popular excitement of a generous charac ter, let the object of it be what it may. The great desiring heart of man, surging with one strong, sympathetic sweU, even though it be to break on the beach of Ufe and faU backwards, leaving the sands as barren as before, has yet a meaning and a power in its restlessness, with which I must deeply sympa thize. Nor do I sympathize any the less, when the indi vidual, who caUs forth such an outburst, can be seen by the eye of sober sense to be altogether inadequate and dispro portioned to it. I do not regard it as any thing against our American nation, that we are capable, to a very great extent, of these sudden personal enthusiasms, because I think that, with an individual or a community, the capabiUty of being exalted into a tempo rary enthusiasm of self-forgetfulness, so far from being a fault, has in it a quaUty of something divine. Of course, about aU such things there is a great deal which a cool critic could make ridiculous, but I hold to my opinion of them nevertheless. In the afternoon I rode out with the lord provost to see the cathedral. The lord provost answers' to the lord mayor in England. His title and office in both countries continue only a year, except in cases of reelection. As I saw the way to the cathedral blocked up by a throng of people, who had come out to see me, I could not help say ing, " What went ye out for to see ? a reed shaken with the ¦wind ? " In fact, I was so worn out, that I could hardly walk through the buUding. It is in this cathedral that part of the scene of Rob Roy is laid. This was my first experience in cathedrals. It was a new thing to me altogether, and as I walked along under the SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 55 old buttresses and battlements without, and looked into the bewildering labyrinths of architecture within, I saw that, with silence and solitude to help the impression, the old buUding might become a strong part of one's inner Ufe. A grave yard crowded with flat stones lies all around it, A deep ravine separates it from another cemetery on an opposite eminence, rustling with dark pines. A little brook murmurs with its slender voice between. On this opposite eminence the statue of John Knox, grim and strong, stands with its arm uplifted, as if shaking his fist at the old cathedral which in life he vainly endeavored to battle down. 56 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. Knox was very different from Luther, in that he had no conservative element in him, but warred equally against ac cessories and essentials. At the time when the churches of Scotland were being pulled down in a general iconoclastic crusade, the tradesmen of Glasgow stood for the defence of their cathedral, and forced the reformers to content themselves with having the idolatrous images of saints puUed down from their niches and thrown into the brook, whUe, as Andrew Fairservice hath it, " The auld kirk stood as crouse as a cat when the fleas are caimed aff her, and a' body was aUke pleased." We went all through the cathedral, which is fitted up as a Protestant place of worship, and has a simple and massive grandeur about it. In fact, to quote again from our friend Andrew, we could truly say, " Ah, it's a brave kirk, nane o' yere whig-maleeries, and curUewurlies, and opensteek hems about it — a' soUd, weel-jointed mason wark, that wUl stand as lang as the warld, keep hands and gun-powther aff it." I was disapppointed in one thing : the painted glass, if there has ever been any, is almost aU gone, and the glare of light through the immense -windows is altogether too great, revealing many defects and rudenesses in the architecture, which would have quite another appearance in the colored rays through painted windows — an emblem, perhaps, of the cold, definite, intellectual rationaUsm, which has taken the place of the many-colored, gorgeous mysticism of former times. After having been over the church, we requested, out of respect to BaiUie Nicol Jarvie's memory, to be driven through the Saut Market. I, however, was so thoroughly tired that I cannot remember any thing about it. I wiU say, by the way, that I have found out since, that SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 57 nothing is so utterly hazardous to a person's strength as look ing at cathedrals. The strain upon the head and eyes in looking up through these immense arches, and then the sepul chral chiU which abides from generation to generation in them, their great extent, and the variety which tempts you fo fatigue which you are not at aU aware of, have overcome, as I was told, many before me, Mr. S. and C , however, made amends, by their great activity and zeal, for all that I could not do, and I was pleased to understand from them, that part of the old Tolbooth, where Rob Roy and the baillie had their rencontre, was standing safe and sound, with stuff enough in it for half a dozen more sto ries, if any body could be found to write them. And Mr. S. insisted upon it, that I should not omit to notify you of this circumstance. AVell, in consequence of all tliis, the next morning I was so ill as to need a physician, unable to see any one that called, or to hear any of the letters. I passed most of the day in bed, but in the evening I had to get up, as I had engaged to drink tea with two thousand people. Our kind friends Dr. and Mrs. Wardlaw came after us, and Mr. S. and I went in the carriage with them. Dr. AVardlaw is a venerable-looking old man ; we both thought we saw a sti-iking resemblance in him to our friend Dr. Woods, of Andover. He is stUl quite active in body and mind, and officiates to his congregation with great .acceptance. I fear, however, that he is in iU health, for I noticed, as we were passing along to church, that he frequently laid his hand upon his hcai-t, and seemed in pain. He said he hoped he should be able to get through the evening, but that when he was not well, excitement was apt to bring on a spasm about 68 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. the heart ; but with it aU he seemed so cheerful, Uvely, and benignant, that I could not but feel my affections drawn towards him. Mrs. Wardlaw is a gentle, motherly woman, and it was a great comfort to have her with me on such an occasion. Our carriage stopped at last at the place. I have a dim remembrance of a way being made for us through a great crowd aU round the house, and of going with Mrs. Wardlaw up into a dressing room, where I met and shook hands with many friendly people. Then we passed into a gaUery, where a seat was reserved for our party, directly in front of the au dience. Our friend BaiUie Paton presided. Mrs. Wardlaw and I sat together, and around us many friends, chiefly minis ters of the different churches, the ladies and gentlemen of the Glasgow Antislavery Society, and others. I told you it was a tea party ; but the arrangements were altogether different from any I had ever seen. There were narrow tables stretched up and down the whole extent of the great hall, and every person had an appointed seat. These tables were set out with cups and saucers, cakes, biscuit, &c., and when the proper time came, attendants passed along serv ing tea. The arrangements were so accurate and methodical that the whole multitude actuaUy took tea together, -without the least apparent inconvenience or disturbance. There was a gentle, subdued murmur of conversation aU over the house, the sociable clinking of teacups and teaspoons, while the entertainment was going on. It seemed to me such an odd idea, I could not help wondering what sort of a teapot that must be, in which all this tea for two thousand people was made. Truly, as Hadji Baba says, I think they must have had the " father of all teakettles " to boil it in. I could not help wondering if old mother Scotland had put two thousand SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 59 teaspoonfuls of tea for the company, and one for the teapot, as is our good Yankee custom. We had quite a sociable time- up in our gaUery. Our tea table stretched quite across the gaUery, and we drank tea " in sight of all the people." By we, I mean a great number of ministers and their wives, and ladies of the Antislavery Soci ety, besides our party, and the friends whom I have men tioned before. AU seemed to be enjoying themselves. After tea they sang a few verses of the seventy-second psalm in the old Scotch version. " The people's poor ones he shall judge, The needy's children save ; And those shaU he in pieces break, Who them oppressed have. For he the needy shall preserve, When he to him doth caU ; The poor, also, and him that hath No help of man at aU. Both from deceit and violence Their soul he shall set free ; And in his sight right precious And dear their blood shaU be. Now blessed be. the Lord, our God, The God of Israel, For he alone doth wondrous works, In glory that e.\cel. And blessed be his glorious name To all eternity ; The whole earth let his glory fill : Amen ; so let it be." When I heard the united sound of all the voices, giving 60 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. force to these simple and pathetic words, I thought I could see something of the reason why that rude old translation StiU holds its place in Scotland, The addresses were, many of them, very beautiful ; the more so -for the eamest and reUgious feeUng which they manifested. That of Dr. Wardlaw, in particular, was fuU of comfort and encouragement, and breathed a most candid and cathoUc spirit. Could our friends in America see with what eamest warmth the reUgious heart of Scotland beats towards them, they would be wUUng to suffer a word of admonition from those to whom love gives a right to speak. As Christians, aU have a com mon interest in what honors or dishonors Christianity, and an ocean between us does not make us less one church. Most of the speeches you will see recorded in the papers. In the course of the evening there was a second service of grapes, oranges, and other fruits, served round in the same quiet manner as the tea. On account of the feeble state of my health, they kindly excused me before the exercises of the evening were over. The next morning, at ten o'clock, we rode with a party of friends to see some of the notabilia. First, to BothweU Castle, of old the residence of the Black Douglas. The name had for me the quality of enchantment. I cannot understand nor explain the nature of that sad yearning and longing with which one visits the mouldering remains of a state of society which one's reason wholly disapproves, and which one's calm sense of right would think it the greatest misfortune to have recaUed ; yet when the carriage turned under the shadow of beautiful ancient oaks, and Mr. S. said, "There, we are in the grounds of the old Black Douglas family ! " I felt every nerve shiver. I remembered SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 61 the dim melodies of the Lady of the Lake. BothweU's lord was the lord of this castle, whose beautiful ruins here adom the banks of the Clyde. Whatever else we have or may have in America, we shall never have the wild, poetic beauty of these ruins. The pres ent noble possessors are fully aware of their worth as objects of taste, and, therefore, with the greatest care are they pre served. Winding waUvS are cut through the grounds with much ingenuity, and seats or arbors are placed at every desirable and picturesque point of view. To the thorough-paced tourist, who wants to do the pro prieties in the shortest possible time, this arrangement is VOL. I. 6 62 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. undoubtedly particularly satisfactory ; but to the idealist, who would Uke to roam, and dream, and feel, and to come unex pectedly on the choicest points of view, it is rather a damper to have aU his raptures prearranged and foreordained for him, set down in the guide book and proclaimed by the guide, even though it should be done with the most artistic accuracy. Nevertheless, when we came to the arbor which command ed the finest view of the old castle, and saw its gray, i-vy- clad walls, standing forth on a beautiful point, round which swept the bro-wn, dimpling waves of the Clyde, the indescrib able sweetness, sadness, wUdness of the whole scene would make its voice heard in our hearts. "Thy servants take pleasure in her dust, and favor the stones thereof," said an old Hebrew poet, who must have felt the inexpressibly sad beauty of a ruin. AU the splendid phantasmagoria of chivalry and feudaUsm, knights, ladies, banners, gUttering arms, sweep before us ; the cry of the battle, the noise of the captains, and the shouting; and then in contrast this deep stillness, that green, cUnging ivy, the gentle, rippling river, those weeping birches, dipping in its soft -waters — aU these, in their quiet loveUness, speak of something more imperish able than brute force. The ivy on the walls now displays a trunk in some places as large as a man's body. In the days of old Archibald the Grim, I suppose that ivy was a Uttle, weak twig, which, if he ever noticed, he must have thought the feeblest and sUght est of aU things ; yet Archibald has gone back to dust, and the ivy is stiU growing on. Such force is there in gentle things. I have often been dissatisfied with the admiration, which a poetic education has woven into my nature, for chivalry and SUNTSY MEMORIES OP POREItN LANDS. 63 feudaUsm ; but, on a closer examination, I am convinced that there is a real and proper foundation for it, and that, rightly understood, this poetic admiration is not inconsistent with the spirit of Christ. For, let us consider what it is we admire in these Doug lases, for instance, who, as represented by Scott, are perhaps as good exponents of the idea as any. Was it their hardness, their cruelty, their hastiness to take offence, their fondness for blood and murder? AU these, by and of themselves, are sunply disgusting. What, then, do we admire ? Their cour age, their fortitude, their scom of lying and dissimulation, their high sense of personal honor, which led them to feel themselves the protectors of the weak, and to disdain to take advantage of unequal odds against an enemy. If we read the book of Isaiah, we shaU see that some of the most strik ing representations of God appeal to the very same principles of our nature. The fact is, there can be no reUable character which has not its basis in these strong qualities. The beautiful must ever rest in the arms of the sublime. The gentle needs the strong to sustain it, as much as the rock flowers need rocks to grow on, or yonder ivy the rugged waU which it embraces. When we are admiring these things, therefore, we are only admiring some sparkles and glimmers of that which is divine, and so coming nearer to Him in whom all fulness dwells. After admiring at a distance, we stroUed through the ruins themselves. Do you remember, in the Lady of the Lake, where the exUed Douglas, recalling to his daughter the images of his former splendor, says, — " When Blantyre hymned her hoUest lays. And BothweU's waUs flung back the praise " ? 64 SUNNY MljAIORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. These Unes came forcibly to my mind, when I saw the moul dering ruins of Blantyre priory rising exactly opposite to the castle, on the other side of the Clyde. The banks of the River Clyde, where we walked, were thick set with Portuguese lau rel, which I have before men tioned as similar to our rhodo dendron. I here noticed a fact with regard to the ivy which had often puzzled me ; and that is, the different shapes of its leaves in the different stages of its growth. The young ivy has this leaf; but when it has be come more than a century old every trace and indentation melts ¦ away, and it assumes this form, which I found afterwards to be the invariable shape of all the oldest ivy, in aU the ruins of Europe which I explored. This ivy, like the spider, takes hold with her hands in kings' palaces, as every twig is fumished with innumerable Uttle clinging fingers, by which it draws itself close, as it were, to the very heart of the old rough stone. Its clinging and beautiful tenacity has given rise to an abundance of conceits about fidelity, friendship, and woman's *love, which have become commonplace simply from their appropriateness. It might, also, symboUze that higher love, unconquerable and unconquered, which has embraced this rumed world from age to age, silently spreading its green SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 65 over the rents and fissures of our faUen nature, giving " beauty for ashes, and garments of praise for the spirit of heaviness." There is a modern mansion, where the present proprietor of the estate lives. It was with an emotion partaking of the sorrowful, that we heard that the Douglas Une, as such, was extinct, and that the estate had passed to distant connections. I was told that the present Lord Douglas is a peaceful clergyman, quite a different character from old Archibald the Grim. The present residence is a plain mansion, standing on a beautiful lawn, near the old castle. The head gardener of the estate and many of the servants came out to meet us, with faces full of interest. The gardener walked about to show us the localities, and had a great deal of the quiet intelligence and self-respect vthich, I think, is characteristic of the labor ing classes here. I noticed that on the green sweep of the lawn, he had set out here and there a good many daisies, aa embellishments to the grass, and these in many places were defended by sticks bent over them, and that, in one placc, a bank overhanging the stream was radiant witli yellow dafl'u- dils, which appeared to have come up and blossomed there accidentally. I know not whether these were i)lanteJ there, or came up of themselves. We next went to the famous Bothwell bridge, which Scott has immortalized in Old Mortality. We walked up and down, trying to recall the scenes of the battle, as there described, and were rather mortified, after we had all our associations comfortably located upon it, to be told that it was not thc same bridge — it had been newly built, widened, and other wise made more comfortable and convenient. G* 66 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. Of course, this was evidently for the benefit of society, but it was certainly one of those cases where the poetical suffers for the practical. I comforted myself in my despondency, by looking over at the old stone piers underneath, which were indisputably the same. We drove now through beautiful grounds, and aUghted at an elegant mansion, which in former days belonged to Lockhart, the son-in-law of Scott. It was in this house that Old MortaUty was written. As I was weary, the party left me here, whUe they went on to see the Duke of Hamilton's grounds. Our kind hostess showed me into a smaU study, where she said Old MortaUty was written. The window commanded a beautifiU view of many of the localities described. Scott was as particular to consult for accuracy in his local descriptions as if he had been writing a guide book. He was in the habit of noting do'wn in 'his memorandum book even names and characteristics of the wild flowers and grasses that grew about a place. When a friend once re marked to him, that he should have supposed his imagination could have suppUed such trifles, he made an answer that is worth remembering by every artist — that no imagination could long support its freshness, that was not nourished by a constant and minute observation of nature. Craignethan Castle, which is the original of TUUetudlem, we were informed, was not far from thence. It is stated in Lockhart's Life of Scott, that the ruins of this castle excited in Scott such delight and enthusiasm, that its owner urged him to accept for his lifetime the use of a smaU habitable house," enclosed within the circuit of the waUs. After the return of the party from HamUton Park, we sat down to an elegant lunch, wliere my eye was attracted more SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 67 than any thing else, by the splendor of the hothouse flowers which adomed the table. So far as I have observed, the culture of flowers, both in England and Scotiand, is more universaUy an object of attention than with us. Every fam ily in easy circumstances seems, as a matter of course, to have their greenhouse, and the flowers are brought to a degree of perfection which I have never seen at home. I may as weU say here, that we were told by a gentle man, whose name I do not now remember, that this whole district had been celebrated for its orchards ; he added, however, that since the introduction of the American apple into the market, its superior excellence had made many of these orchards almost entirely worthless. It is a curious fact, showing how the new world is working on the old. After taking leave of our hospitable friends, we took to our carriages again. As we were driving slowly through the beautiful grounds, admiring, as we never faUed to do, their perfect cultivation, a party of servants appeared in sight, wa-ving their hats and handkerchiefs, and cheering us as wo passed. These kindly expressions from them were as pleas ant as any we received. In the evening we had engaged to attend another soiree, gotten up by the working classes, to give admission to many who were not in circumstances to purchase tickets for the other. This was to me, if any thing, a more interesting re union, because this was just the class whom I -wished to meet. The arrangements of the entertainment were Uke those of the evening before. As I sat in the front gaUery and looked over the audience with an intense interest, I thought they appeared on the whole very much Uke what I might have seen at home in a 68 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. similar gathering. Men, women, and children were dressed in a style which showed both self-respect and good taste, and the speeches were far above mediocrity. One pale young man, a watchmaker, as I was told afterwards, delivered an address, which, though doubtless it had the promising fault of too much elaboration and omament, yet I thought had passa ges which would do honor to any Uterary periodical whatever. There were other orators less highly finished, who yet spoke " right on,'' in a strong, forcible, and reaUy eloquent way, giving the grain of the wood -without the varnish. They contended very seriously and sensibly, that although the working men of England and Scotland had many things to complain of, and many things to be reformed, yet their condition was world-wide different from that of the slave. One cannot read the history of the working classes in Eng land, for the last fifty years, withouT; feeUng sensibly the dif ference between oppressions under a free government and slavery. So long as the working class of England produces orators and writers, such as it undoubtedly has produced ; so long as it has in it that spirit of independence and resistance of wrong, which has shown itself more and more during the agitations of the last fifty years ; and so as long as the law allows them to meet and debate, to form associations and com mittees, to send up remonstrances and petitions to government, — one can see that their case is essentiaUy different from that of plantation slaves. I must say, I was struck this night with the resemblance between the Scotchman and the New Englander. One sees the distinctive nationaUty of a country more in the middle and laboring classes than in the higher, and accordingly at this meeting there was more nationality, I thought, than at the other. SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 69 The highest class of mind in all countries loses nationaUty, and becomes universal ; it is a great pity, too, because nation aUty is picturesque always. One of the greatest miracles to my mind about Kossuth was, that with so universal an education, and such an extensive range of language and thought, he was yet so distinctively a Magyar. One thing has surprised and rather disappointed us. Our enthusiasm for Walter Scott does not apparently meet a re sponse in the popular breast. AUusions to Bannockburn and Drumclog bring down the house, but enthusiasm for Scott was met with comparative sUence. We discussed this matter among ourselves, and rather wondered at it. The fact is, Scott belonged to a past, and not to the coming age. He beautified and adomed that which is wax ing old and passing away. He loved and worshipped in his very soul institutions which the majority of the common peo ple have felt as a restraint and a burden. One might natu raUy get a very different idea of a feudal castle by starving to death in the dungeon of it, than by writing sonnets on it at a picturesque distance. Now, we in America are so far removed from feudaUsm, — it has been a thing so much of mere song and story with us, and our sympathies are so unchecked by any experience of inconvenience or injustice in its conse quences, — that we are at fuU Uberty to appreciate the pictur esque of it, and sometimes, when we stand overlooking our own beautiful scenery, to -wish that we could see, " On yon bold brow, a lordly tower ; In that soft vale, a lady's bower ; In yonder meadow, far away, The turrets of a cloister gray ; " when those who know by experience aU the accompaniments of these oi-naments, would have quite another impression. 70 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. Nevertheless, since there are two worlds in man, the ,i,al and the ideal, and both have indisputably a right to be, since God made the faculties of both, we must feel that it is a benefaction to mankind, that Scott was thus raised up as the link, in the ideal vv'orld, between the present and the past. It is a loss to universal humanity to have the imprint of any phase of human life and experience entirely blotted out. Scott's fictions are like this beautiful ivy, with which aU the i-uins here are overgrown, — they not only adom, but, in many cases, they actually hold together, and prevent the crumbling mass from faUing into ruins. To-monow we are going to have a saU on the Clyde. SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 71 LETTER V. AprU 17. My dear Sister : — To-day a large party of us started on a small steamer, to go down the Clyde. It has been a very, very exciting day to us. It is so stimulating to be where every name is a poem. For instance, we start at the Broomielaw. This Broomielaw is a kind of wharf, or landing. Perhaps in old times it was a haugh overgrown with broom, from whence it gets its name ; this is only my conjecture, however. We have a small steamer quite crowded with people, our excursion party being very numerous. In a few minutes after starting, somebody says, — " 0, here's where the Kelvin enters." This starts up, — " Let us haste to Kelvin Grove." Then soon we are coming to Dumbarton Castle, and all the tears we shed over Miss Porter's WiUiam Wallace seem to rise up like a many-colored mist about it. The highest peak of the rock is still called Wallace's Seat, and a part of the castle, Wallace's Tower ; and in one of its apartments a huge two-handed sword of the hero is stiU shown. I suppose, in fact. Miss Porter's sentimental hero is about as much like the real WiUiam Wallace as Daniel Boone is like Sir Charles Grandison. Many a young lady, who has cried herself sick over WaUace in the novel, would have been in perfect horror if she could have seen the real man. StUl Dumbarton Castle is not a whit the less picturesque for that. 72 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. Now comes the Leven, — that identical Leven Water kno-wn in song, — and on the right is Leven Grove. " There," said somebody to me, " is the old mansion of the Earls of Glencaim." Quick as thought, flashed through my mind that most eloquent of Burns's poems, -the Lament for James, Eai-1 of Glencairn. " The bridegroom may forget the bride Was made his wedded -wife yestreen ; The monarch may forget the crown That on his head an hour hath been ; The mother may forget the child That smiles sae sweetly on her knee ; But I'U remember thee, Glencairn, And a' that thou hast done for me." This mansion is now the seat of Graham of Gai-tmor. Now we are shown the remains of old Cardross Castle, where it was said Robert Bruce breathed his last. And now we come near the beautiful grounds of Roseneath, a green, velvet-Uke peninsula, stretching out into the -widening waters. " Penmsula ! " said C . " Why, Walter Scott said it was an island." Certainly, he did declare most expUcitly in the person of Mr. Archibald, the Duke of Argyle's serving man, to Miss DoUie Dutton, when she insisted on going to it by land, that Roseneath was an island. It shows that the most accurate may be caught tripping sometimes. Of course, our heads were fuU of David Deans, Jeanie, and Effle, but we saw nothing of them. The Duke of Argyle's ItaUan mansion is.the most conspicuous object. Hereupon there was considerable discussion on the present DiUce of Argyle among the company, from which we gathered SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 73 that he stood high in favor with the popular mind. One said that there had been an old prophecy, probably uttered some where up in the Highlands, where such things are indigenous, that a very good duke of Argyle was to arise having red hair, and that the present duke had verified the prediction by unit ing both requisites. They say that he is quite a young man, with a smaU, slight figure, but with a great deal of energy and acuteness of mind, and with the generous and noble traits which have distinguished his house in former times. He was a pupU of Dr. Arnold, a member of the National Scotch Kirk, and generally understood to be a serious and reUgious man. He is one of the noblemen who have been wUUng to come forward and make use of his education and talent in the way of popular lectures at lyceums and athentEums ; as have also the Duke of Newcastle, the Eail of Carlisle, and some others. So the world goes on. I must think, with all defer ence to poetry, that it is much better to deUver a lyceum lec ture than to head a clan in battle ; though I suppose, a centu ry and a half ago, had the thing been predicted to McCaUum- more's old harper, he would have been greatiy at a loss to comprehend the nature of the transaction. Somewhere about here, I was presented, by his own re quest, to a broad-shouldered Scotch farmer, who stood some sis feet two, and who paid me the compliment to say, that he had read my book, and that he would walk six mUes to see me any day. Such a flattering evidence of discriminating taste, of course, disposed my heart towards him ; but when I went up and put my hand into his great prairie of a pahn, I was as a grasshopper in my own eyes. I inquired who he was, and was told he was one of the Duke of Argyle's farmers. I thought to myself, if aU the duke's farmers were of this pat- VOL. I. 7 74 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. tem, that he might be able to speak to the enemy in the gates to some purpose. Roseneath occupies the ground between the Gare Loch and Loch Long. The Gare Loch is the name given to a bay formed by the River Clyde, here stretching itself out Uke a lake. Here we landed and went on shore, passing along the sides of the loch, in the Uttle vUlage of Row. As we were walking along a carriage came up after us, in which were two ladies. A bunch of primroses, thrown from this cankige, feU at my feet, I picked it up, and then the carriage stopped, and the ladies requested to know if I was Mrs. Stowe. On answering in the affirmative, they urged me •»» so earnestly to come under their roof and take some refresh ment, that I began to remember, what I had partly lost sight of, that I was very tired ; so, whUe the rest of the party walked on to get a distant -view of Ben Lomond, Mr. S. and I suffered ourselves to be taken into the carriage of our un known friends, and carried up to a charming Uttle Italian viUa, which stood, surrounded by flower gardens and pleasure grounds, at the head of the loch. We were ushered into a most comfortable parlor, where a long window, made of one clear unbroken sheet of plate glass, gave a perfect view of the loch with aU its woody shores, with Roseneath Castle in the distance. My good hostesses literally overwhelmed me yith kindness ; but as there was nothmg I reaUy needed so much as a Uttle quiet rest, they took me to' a cozy bedroom, of which they gave me the freedom, for the present. Does not every traveller know what a luxury it is to shut one's eyes sometimes ? The chamber, whicb is caUed " Peace," is now, as it was in Christian's days, one of the best things that Charity or Piety could offer to the pUgrim. Here I got a Uttie brush from the wings of dewy-feathered sleep. SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 75 After a whUe our party came back, and we had to be mov ing. My kind friends expressed so much joy at having met me, that it was really almost embanassing. They told me that they, being confined to the house by iU health, and one of them by lameness, had had no hope of ever seeing me, and that this meeting seemed a wonderful gift of Providence. They bade me take courage and hope, for they felt assured that the Lord would yet entirely make an end of slavery through the world. It was concluded, after we left here, that, instead of retum ing by the boat, we should take caniage and ride home along the banks of the river. In our carriage were Mr. S. and my self. Dr. Robson and Lady Anderson. About this time I* commenced my first essay towards giving titles, and made, as you may suppose, rather an odd piece of work of it, gen erally saying " Mrs." first, and " Lady " afterwards, and then begging pardon. Lady Anderson laughed, and said she would give me a general absolution. She is a truly genial, hearty Scotch woman, and seemed to enter happUy into the spirit of the hour. As we rode on we found that the news of our coming had spread through the vUlage, People came and stood in their doors, beckoning, bowing, smiling, and waving their handker chiefs, and the carriage was several times stopped by persona who came to offer flowers, I remember, in particular, £ group of young girls brought to the carriage two of the most beautiful children I ever saw, whose Uttle hands Uterally deluged us with flowers. At the viUage of Helensburgh we stopped a Uttle while to call upon Mrs. BeU, the wife of Mr. BeU, the inventor of the steamboat. His invention in this country was about the same 76 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. time of that of Fulton in America, Mrs. BeU came to the carriage to speak to us. She is a venerable woman, far ad vanced in years. They had prepared a lunch for us, and quite a number of people had come together to meet us, but our friends said that there was not time for us to stop. We rode through several vUlages after this, and met quite warm welcome. What pleased me was, that it was not mainly from the Uterary, nor the rich, nor the great, but the plain, common people. The butcher came out of his stall, and the baker from his shop, the miUer, dusty with his flour, the blooming, comely, young mother, -with her baby in her arms, aU smUing and bowing with that hearty, inteUigent, friendly look, as if they knew we should be glad to see them. Once, whUe we stopped to change horses, I, for the sake of seeing something more of the country, walked on. It seems the honest landlord and his wife were greatly disappointed at this ; however, they got into the carriage and rode on to see me, and I shook hands with them with a right good wUl. We saw several of the clergymen, who came out to meet us, and I remember stopping, just to be introduced to a most delightful famUy who came out, one by one, gray-headed father and mother, with comely brothers and fair sisters, look ing aU so kindly and home-like, that I would have been glad to use the welcome that they gave me to their dwelUng. This day has been a strange phenomenon to me. In the first place, I have seen in aU these vUlages how universally the people read. I have seen how capable they are of a gen erous excitement and enthusiasm, and how much may be done by a work of fiction, so written as to enlist those sympa thies which are common to aU classes. Certainly, a great deal may be effected in this way, if God gives to any one SLTJNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 77 the power, as I hope he wiU to many. The power of fictitious writing, for good as well as evil, is a thing which ought most seriously to be refiected on. No one can faU to see that in our day it is becoming a very great agency. We came home quite tired, as you may well suppose. You wiU not be surprised that the next day I found myself more disposed to keep my bed than to go out. I regretted it, be cause, being Sunday, I would like to have heard some of the preachers of Glasgow. I was, however, glad of one quiet day to recall my thoughts, for I had been whirling so rapidly from scene to scene, that I needed time to consider where I was ; especiaUy as we were to go to Edinburgh on the morrow. Towards sunset Mr. S. and I stroUed out entirely alone to breatiie a little fresh air. We walked along the banks of the Kelvin, quite down to its junction with the Clyde. The Kel vin Grove of the ballad is all cut away, and the Kelvin flows soberly between stone walls, with a footpath on each side, like a stream that has learned to behave itself. " There," said Mr. S., as we stood on the banks of the Clyde, now lying flushed and tranquU in thc Ught of the set ting sun, " over there is Ayrshire." " Ayrshire ! " 1 said ; " what, where Bums Uved ? " " Yes, there is his cottage, far down to the south, and out of sight, of course ; and there are the bonny banks of Ayr." It seemed as if the evening air brought a kind of sigh with it. Poor Burns ! how insepai-ably he has woven himself with the warp and woof of every Scottish association ! We saw a great many chUdren of the poor out playing — rosy, flne little urchins, worth, any one of them, a dozen bleached, hothouse flowers. We stopped to hear them talk, 7* 78 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. and it was amusing to hear the Scotch of Walter Scott and Burns shouted out with such a right good wiU. We were as much struck by it as an honest Yankee was in Paris by the proficiency of the children in speaking French. The next day we bade fareweU to Glasgow,- overwhelmed with kindness to the last, and only oppressed by the thought, how Uttle that was satisfactory we were able to give in return. Again in the raUroad car on our way to Edinburgh. A pleasant two hours' trip is this from Glasgow to Edinburgh. When the cars stopped at LinUthgow station, the name started us as out of a dream. There, sure enough, before our eyes, on a gentle eminence stood the mouldering ruins of which Scott has sung : — " Of all the palaces so fair, BuUt for the royal dwelling. In Scotland, far beyond compare LinUthgow is exceUing ; And in its park in genial June, How sweet the merry Unnet's tune, How bUthe the blackbird's lay ! The wUd buck's bells from thorny brake. The coot dives merry ou the lake, ^ The saddest heart might pleasure take. To see a scene so gay." Here was bom that woman whose beauty and whose name are set in the strong, rough Scotch heart, as a diamond in granite. Poor Mary ! When her father, who lay on his death bed at that time in Falkland, was told of her birth,- he an swered, " Is it so ? Then God's wUl be done ! It [the kmg dom] came with a lass, and it wiU go with a lass ! " With these words he turned his face to the wall, and died of a broken SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 79 ; ^ _^ Hi^ 1^^^ S ¦ - ^^i-j iW^^yri^^^^^ t^-=Eiii^H^^^^^^£ ^—'^^Bg^^ ^£~^^ heart. Certainly, some people appear to be born under ai evil destiny. Here, too, in LinUthgow church, tradition says that James IV. was warned, by a strange apparition, against that expedi tion to England which cost him his Ufe. Scott has worked this incident up into a beautiful description in the fourth canto of Marmion. The castle has a very sad and romantic appearance, stand ing there aU alone as it does, looking down into the quiet lake. It is said that the internal architectural decorations are ex ceedingly rich and beautiful, and a resemblance has been traced between its style of ornament and that of Heidelberg 80 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. Castle, which has been accounted for by the fact that the Princess EUzabeth, who was the sovereign lady of Heidelberg, spent many of the earUer years of her life in this place. Not far from here we caught a glimpse of the ruins of Niddrie Castle, where Mary spent the first night after her escape from Lochleven. The Avon here at LinUthgow is spanned by a viaduct, which is a fine work of art. It has twenty-five arches, which are from seventy to eighty feet high and fifty -wide. As the cars neared Edinburgh we aU exclaimed at its beauty, so worthily commemorated by Scott : — " Such dusky grandeur clothes the height. Where the huge castle holds its state. And all the steeps slope down, Whose ridgy back heaves to the sky. Piled deep and massy, close and high, Mine own romantic to-wn ! " Edinburgh has had an effect on the Uterary history of the world for the last fifty years, that cannot be forgotten by any one approaching her. The air seemed to be fuU of spirits of those who, no longer living, have woven a part of the thread of our existence. I do not know that the short ness of human life ever so oppressed me as it did on coming near to the city. At the station house the cars stopped amid a crowd of peo ple, who had assembled to meet us. The lord provost met us at the door of the car, and presented us to the magistracy of the city, and the committees of the Edinburgh antislavery societies. The drab dresses and pure white bonnets of many Friends were conspicuous among the dense moving crowd, as white doves seen agamst a dark cloud. Mr. S. and myself. SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 81 and our future hostess, Mrs. Wigham, entered the carriage with the lord provost, and away we drove, the crowd follow ing with their shouts and cheers. I was inexpressibly touched and affected by this. WhUe we were passing the monument of Scott, I felt an oppressive melancholy. "What a moment life seems in the presence of the noble dead ! What a mo mentary thing is art, in aU its beauty ! Where are aU those great souls that have created such an atmosphere of Ught about Edinburgh ? and how Uttle a space was given them to Uve and to enjoy ! We drove all over Edinburgh, up to the castie, to the university, to Holyrood, to the hospitals, and through many of the principal streets, amid shouts, and smUes, and greet ings. Some boys amused me very much by their pertinacious attempts to keep up with the carriage. " Heck," says one of them, " that's her ; see the courts." The various engravers, who have amused themselves by diversifying my face for the public, having all, with great una nimity, agreed in giving prominence to this point, I suppose the urchins thought they were on safe ground there. I cer tainly think I answered one good purpose that day, and that is, of giving the much oppressed and calumniated class, caUed boys, an opportunity to develop all the noise that was in them — a thing for which I think they must bless me in their remembrances. At last the carriage drove into a deep graveUed yard, and we alighted at a porch covered with green ivy, and found ourselves once more at home. 82 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. LETTER VI. My dear Sister : — You may spare your anxieties about me, for I do assure you, that if I were an old Sevres China jar, I could not have more careful handUng than I do. Every body is considerate ; a great deal to say, when there appears to be so much excite ment. Every body seems to understand how good for nothing I am ; and yet, with aU this consideration, I have been obliged to keep my room and bed for a good part of the time. One agreeable feature of the matter is, it gave me an opportunity to make the acquaintance of the celebrated homoeopathic phy sician, Dr. Henderson, in whose experiments and experience I had taken some interest while in America. Of the multitudes who have caUed, I have seen scarcely any. Mrs. W., with whom I am staying, is a most thoughtful nurse. They are Friends, and nothing can be more a pattern of rational home enjoyment, without ostentation and without parade, than a Quaker famUy. Though they reject every thing in arrangement which sa vors of ostentation and worldly show, yet their homes are ex quisite in point of comfort. They make great use of flowers and natural specimens in adorning their apartments, and also indulge to a chaste and moderate extent in engra-vings and works of art. So far as I have observed, they are aU "tee totalers ; " giving, in this respect, the whole benefit of their example to the temperance cause. SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 83 To-monow evening is to be the great tea party here. How in the world I am ever to live through it, I don't know. The amount of letters we found waiting for us here in Ed inburgh was, if possible, more appaUing than in Glasgow. Among those from persons whom you would be interested in hearing of, I may mention a very kind and beautiful one from the Duchess of Sutherland, and one also from the Earl of Carlisle, both desiring to make appointments for meeting us as soon as we come to London. Also a very kind and interest ing note from the Rev. Mr. Kingsley and lady. I look for ward with a great deal of interest to passing a Uttle time with them in their rectory. Letters also from Mr. Binney and Mr. Sherman, two of the leading Congregational clergymen of London. The latter officiates at Surrey Chapel, which was established by Rowland HUl. Both contain invitations to us to visit them in London. As to all engagements, I am in a state of happy acquies cence, having resigned myself, as a very tame lion, into the hands of my keepers. Whenever the time comes for me to do any thing, I try to behave as weU as I can, which, as Dr. Young says, is all that an angel could do in the same cir cumstances. As to these letters, many of them are mere outbursts of feeling ; yet they are interesting as showing the state of the public mind. Many of them are on kindred topics of moral reform, in which they seem to have an intuitive sense that we should be interested. I am not, of course, able to answer them all, but C does, and it takes a good part of every day. One was from a shoemaker's wife in one of the islands, with a copy of very fair verses. Many have come accom panying Uttle keepsakes and gifts. It seems to me rather 84 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS, touching and sad, that people should want to give me things, when I am not able to give an interview, or even a note, in return. C wrote from six to twelve o'clock, steadUy, an swering letters. April 26. Last night came off the soiree. The haU was handsomely decorated -with flags in front. We went with the lord provost in his carriage. The getting in to the haU is quite an affair, I assure you, the doorway is blocked up by such a dense crowd ; yet there is something very touching about these crowds. They open very gently and quietly, and they do not look at you with a rude stare, but with faces fuU of feeUng and inteUigence. I have seen some looks that were reaUy beautiful ; they go to my heart. The common people appear as if they knew that our hearts were -with them. How else should it be, as Christians of America ? — a country which, but for one fault, aUthe world has reason to love. We went up, as before, into a dressing room, where I was presented to many gentlemen and ladies. When we go in, the cheering, clapping, and stamping at first strikes one with a strange sensation ; but then every body looks so heartily pleased and delighted, and there is such an aU-pervading at mosphere of geniaUty and sympathy, as makes one in a few moments feel quite at home. After aU I consider that these cheers and applauses, are Scotland's voice to America, a re cognition of the brotherhood of the countries. We were arranged at this meeting much as in Glasgow. The lord provost presided ; and in the gaUery with us were distinguished men from the magistracy, the university, and the ministry, with their wives, besides the members of the anti- slavery societies. The lord provost, I am told, has been particularly efficient in aU benevolent operations, especiaUy SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS, 85 those for the education of the poorer classes. He is also a zealous supporter of the temperance cause. Among the speakers, I was especiaUy interested in Dr, Guthrie, who seems to be also a particular favorite of the public. He is a taU, thin man, -with a kind of quaintness in liis mode of expressing himself, which sometimes gives an air of drollery to his speaking. He is a minister of the Free Church, and has more particularly distinguished himself by his exertions in behalf of the poorer classes. One passage in his speech I wiU quote, for I was quite amused with it. It was in aUusion to the retorts whieh had been made in Mrs. Tyler's letter to the ladies of England, on the defects in the old country. " I do not deny," he .said, " that there are defects in our country. What I say of them is this — that they are incidental very much to an old country like our own. Dr. Simpson knows very well, and so does every medical man, that when a man gets old he gets very infirm, his blood vessels get ossified, aud 80 on ; but I shaU not enter into that part of the sub ject. What is true of an old country is true of old men, and old women, too. I am very much disposed to say of this young nation of America, that their teasing us with our de fects might just get the answer which a worthy member of the church of Scotland gave to his son, who was so dissatis fied with the defects in the church, that he was determined to go over to a younger communion. ' Ah, Sandy, Sandy, man, when your lum reeks as lang as ours, it wUl, may be, need sweeping too.' * Now, I do not deny that we need sweeping ; • Wlien your chimney has smoked as long as ours, it -will, may be, need sweeping too. VOL. I, 8 86 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. every body knows that I have been singmg out about sweep ing for the last five years. Let me teU my good friends in Edmburgh, and in the country, that the sooner you sweep the better ; for the chimney may catch fire, and reduce your noble fabric to ashes. " They told us in that letter about the poor needlewomen, that had to work sixteen hours a day. ' 'Tis true, and pity 'tis 'tis true.' But does the law compel them to work sixteen hours a day ? I would like to ask the writer of the letter. Are they bound down to their garrets and cellars for sixteen hours a day ? May they not go where they like, and ask better wages and better work ? Can the slave do that ? Do they teU us of our ragged children ? I know something about ragged children. But are our ragged children condemned to the street ? If I, or the lord provost, or any other benevo lent man, should take one of them from the street and bring it to the school, dare the policeman — miscalled officer of justice — put his foot across the door to drag it out again to the street ? Nobody means to defend our defects ; does any man attempt to defend them? Were not these noble ladies and excellent women, titled and untitled, among the very first to seek to redress them ? " I wish I could give you the strong, broad Scotch accent. The national penny offering, consisting of a thousand golden sovereigns on a magnificent sUver salver, stood conspicuously in view of the audience. It has been an unsolicited offering, given in the smaUest sums, often fi-om the extreme poverty of the giver. The committee who coUected it in Edinburgh and Glasgow bore witness to the willingness with which the very poorest contributed the offering of their sympathy. In one cottage they fouriU a bUnd woman, and said, ," Here, at SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 87 least, is one who wUl feel no interest, as she cannot have read the book." " Indeed," said the old lady, " if I cannot read, my son has read it to me, and I've got my penny saved to give." It is to my mind extremely touching to see how the poor, in their poverty, can be moved to a generosity surpassing that of the rich. Nor' do I mourn that they took it from their slender store, because I know that a penny given from a kindly impulse is a greater comfort and blessing to the poor est giver than even a penny received. As in the case of the other meeting, we came out long be fore the speeches were ended. AVell, of course, I did not sleep any all night. The next day I felt quite miserable. Mrs. W. went with Mr. S. and myself for a quiet drive in her carriage. It was a beautiful, sunny day that we drove out to C'raig- luiller Castle, formerly ono of the royal resideiiees. It was here that Mary retreated after the murder of Rizzio, and where, the clironieler says, she was often heard in those days wishing that she were in her grave. It seems so strange to see it standing there all alone, in the midst of grassy fields, so silent, and cold, and solitary. I got out of the carriage and walked about it. The short, green grass was gemmed with daisies, and sheep were peacefully feeding and resting, where was once all the life and bustle of a court. We had no one to open the inside of thc castle for us, where there are still some tolerably preserved rooms, but we strolled listlessly about, looking through the old arches, and peeping througli slits and loopholes into the interior. The last verse of Queen Mai-y's lamentation seemed to be sighing in the air : — 88 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. " 0, soon for me shaU simmer's suns Nae mair Ught up the mom ; . Nae mair for me the autumn -wind Wave o'er the yellow corn. But in the narrow house of death Let winter round me rave, And the next flowers that deck the spring Bloom ou my peaceful grave." Only yesterday, it seemed, since that poor heart was yearn ing and struggling, caught in the toUs of this sorrowful life. How many times she looked on this landscape through sad eyes ! I suppose just such little daisies grew here in the grass then, and perhaps she stooped and picked them, wish ing, just as I do, that the pink did not grow on the under side of them, where it does not show. Do you know that this Uttle daisy is the gowan of Scotch poetry ? So I was told by a " charming young Jessie " in Glasgow, one day when I was riding out there. The view from CraigmUler is beautiful — Auld Reekie, Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Crags, and far down the Frith of Forth, where we can just dimly see the Bass Rock, celebrated as a prison, where the Covenanters were immured. ,It was this fortress that Habakkuk Mucklewrath speaks of in his ravings, when he says, " Am not I Habakkuk Muc klewrath, whose name is changed to Magor-Missabib, because I am made a terror unto myself, and unto all that are around me ? I heard it : when did I hear it ? Was it not in the tower of the Bass, that overhangeth the -wide, wild sea ? and it howled in the winds, and it roared in the bUlows, and it screamed, and it whistled, and it clanged, with the screams, and the clang, and the whistle of the sea birds, as they floats ed, and fiew, and dropped, and dived, on the bosom of the waters." SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 89 These SaUsbury Crags, which overlook Edinburgh, have a very pccuUar outline ; they resemble an immense elephant crouching down. We passed Mushats Cairn, where Jeanie Deans met Robertson ; and saw Liberton, where Reuben But ler was a schoolmaster. Nobody doubts, I hope, the histor ical accuracy of these points. Thursday, 21st. We took cars for Aberdeen. The appro priation of old historical names to railroad stations often re minds me of Hood's whimsical Unes on a possible raUroad in the Holy Land. Think of having Bannockburn shouted by thc station master, as the train runs whistUng up to a smaU 90 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS, station house. Nothing to be seen there but broad, sUent meadows, through which the burn wimples its way. Here was the very Marathon of Scotiand, I suppose we know more about it from the "Scots wha ha' wi' Wallace bled," than we do from history ; yet the real scene, as narrated by the historian, has a mqral grandeur in it. The chronicler teUs us, that when on this occasion the Scots formed their Une of battle, and a venerable abbot passed along, holding up the cross before them, the whole army feU upon their knees, " These Scots -wUl not fight," said Edward, who was recon noitring at a distance. " See ! they are aU on their knees now to beg for mercy." " They kneel," said a lord who stood by, " but it is to God alone ; trust me, those men wiU win or die." The bold lyric of Burns is but an inspired kind of version of the real address which Bruce is said to have made to his foUowers ; and whoever reads it wiU see that its power Ues not in appeal to brute force, but to the highest elements of our nature, the love of justice, the sense of honor, and to disin terestedness, self-sacrifice, courage unto death. These things will Uve and form high and imperishable ele ments of our nature, when mankind have leamed to develop them in other spheres than that of physical force. Burns's lyric, therefore, has in it an element which may rouse the heart to noble endurance and devotion, even when the world shall leam war no more. We passed through the to-wn of Stirling, whose castle, mag nificently seated on a rocky throne, looks right worthy to have been the seat of Scotland's court, as it was for many years. It brought to our minds all the last scenes of the Lady of the SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 91 Lake, which are laid here with a minuteness of local descrip tion and allusion characteristic of Scott. According to our guide book, one might find there the visi ble counterpart of every thing which he has woven into his beautiful fiction — " the Lady's Rock, which rang to the ap plause of the multitude ; " " the Franciscan steeple, which pealed the merry festival ; " " the sad and fatal mound," apostrophized by Douglas, — " That oft has heard the death-axe sound As on the noblest of the land. Fell the stern headsman's bloody hand ; " — the room in the castle, where " a Douglas by his sovereign bled ; " and not far off thc ruins of Cambuskenneth Abbey. One could not but think of the old days Scott has described. " The castle gates were open flung, The quivering drawbridge rocked and rung, And echoed loud the flinty street Beneath the coursers' clattering feet, As slowly down the steep descent Fair Scotland's king and nobles went, While all along the crowded way Was jubUee and loud huzza." The place has been long deserted as a palace ; but it is one of the four fortresses, which, by the articles of union between Scotland and England, are always to be kept in repair. We passed by the town of Perth, the scene of the " Fair Maid's " adventures. We had received an invitation to -sdsit it, but for want of time were obUged to defer it tUl our return to Scotland. Somewhere along here Mr, S, was quite excited by our 92 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS, proximity to Scone, the old cro-wning-place of the Scottish kings ; however, the old castle is entirely demoUshed, and su perseded by a modern mansion, the seat of the Earl of Mans field, StiU farther on, sunounded by dark and solemn woods, stands Glamis Castle, the scene of the tragedy in Macbeth, We could see but a gUmpse of it from the road, but the very sound of the name was enough to stimulate our imagination. It is stiU an inhabited dweUing, though much to the regret of antiquarians and lovers of the picturesque, the characteristic outworks and defences of the feudal ages, which surrounded it, have been leveUed, and velvet lawns and gravel walks carried to the very door, Scott, who passed a night there in 1793, while it was yet in its pristine condition, comments on the change mournfully, as undoubtedly a true lover of the past would. Albeit the grass plats and the gravel walks, to the eye of sense, are undoubtedly much more agreeable and con venient. Scott says in his Demonology, that he -never came any where near to being overcome with a superstitious feeUng, except twice in his Ufe, and one was on the night when he slept in Glamis Castle. The poetical and the practical ele ments in Scott's mind ran together, side by side, without mix ing, as evidently as the waters of the Alleghany and Monon- gahela at Pittsburg. Scarcely ever a man had so much relish for the supernatural, and so little faith in it. One must con fess, however, that the most sceptical might have been over come at Glamis Castle, for its appearance, by all accounts, is weird and strange, and ghostly enough to start the duUest imagination. On this occasion Scott says, "After a very hospitable re ception from the late Peter Proctor, seneschal of the castie, T SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 93 was conducted to my apartment in a distant part of the buUd ing. I must own, that when I heard door after door shut, after my conductor had retired, I began to consider myself as too far from the Uving, and somewhat too near the dead. We had passed through what is caUed ' the King's Room,' a vault ed apartment, garnished with stags' antlers and similar trophies of the chase, and said by tradition to be the spot of Malcolm's murder, and I had an idea of the vicinity of the castle chapel. In spite of the truth of history, the whole night scene in Mac- bcth's castle rushed at once upon my mind, and struck my imagination more forcibly than even when I have seen its ter rors represented by the late John Kemble and his inimitable sister. In a word, I experienced sensations which, though not remarkable cither for timidity or superstition, did not fail to affect me to the point of being disagreeable, while they were mingled at the same time with a strange and indescriba ble kind of pleasure." Extemally, the building is quaint and singular enough ; taU and gaunt, crested with innumerable Uttle pepper box turrets and conical towers, like an old French chateau. Besides the tragedy of Macbeth, another story of stiU raore melancholy interest is connected with it, which a pen Uke that of Hawthorne, might work up with gloomy power. In 1537 the young and beautiful Lady Glamis of this place was actually tried and executed for witchcraft. Only think, now ! what capabilities in this old castle, with its gloomy pine shades, quauit ai-chitecture, and weird associations, with this bit of historic verity to stai-t upon. Walter Scott says, there is in the castle a secret chamber ; the entrance to which, by the law of the family, can be known only to three persons at once — the lord of the castle, his heir 94 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. apparent, and any third person whom they niight choose to take into their confidence. See, now, the materials which the past gives to the noveUst or poet in these old countries. These ancient casties are standing romances, made to the author's hands. The castle started a talk upon Shakspeare, and how much of the tragedy he made up, and how much he found ready to his hand in tradition and history. It seems the story is aU told in Holingshed's Chronicles ; but his fer tile mind has added some of the most thrUUng touches, such as the sleep walking of Lady Macbeth. It always seemed to me that this tragedy had more of the melancholy majesty SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 95 and power of the Greek than any thing modern. The striking difference is, that wliUe fate was the radical element of those, free wiU is not less distinctly the basis of tills. Strangely enough, while it commences -with a super natural oracle, there is not a trace of fatahsm in it ; but through all, a clear, distinct recognition of moral responsi bility, of the power to resist evil, and the guilt of yielding to it. The theology of Shakspeare is as remarkable as his poetry, A strong and clear sense of man's moral responsi bility and free agency, and of certain future retribution, runs through all his plays, I enjoyed this ride to Aberdeen more than any thing we had seen yet, the country is so wild and singular. In the afternoon we came in sight of thc German Ocean. The free, bracing air from the sea, and the thought that it actually was the German Ocean, and that over the other side was Norway, within a day's sail of us, gave it a strange, romantic charm. " Supi)ose we just run over to Norway," said one of us ; and then came the idea, what we should do if we got over there, seeing none of us underslood Norse. The whole coast along ln-re is wild and rock-bound ; occa sionally h)ng points jut into thc sea; the blue waves sparkle and (lash against them in little jets of foam, and the sea birds dive and scream around tliein. Ou one of tlH's(^ points, near the town of Stonehaven, are still seen the ruins of Dunottar Castle, bare and desolate, surrounded on aU sides by the restless, moaning waves ; a place justiy held accursed as the scene of cruelties to the Covenanters, so appalUng and brutal as to make the blood boil in the recital, even in this late day. During the reigns of Charles and James, sovereigns whom 96 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. Macaulay justly designates as Belial and Moloch, this castle .was the state prison for confining this noble people. In the reign of James, one hundred and sixty-seven prisoners, men, women, and children, for refusing the oath of supremacy, were arrested at their firesides : herded together like cattle ; driven at the point of the bayonet, amid the gibes, jeers, and scoffs of soldiers, up to this dreary place, and thrust promis cuously into a dark vault in this castle ; almost smothered in filth and mire ; a prey to pestilent disease, and to every ma lignity which brutality could inflict, they died here unpitied, A few escaping down the rocks were recaptured, and subjected to shocking tortures, A moss-grown gravestone, in the parish churchyard of Du nottar, shows the last resting-place of these sufferers, Walter Scott, who visited this place, says, " The peasantry continue to attach to the tombs of these victims an honor which they do not render to more splendid mausoleums ; and when they point them out to their sons, and narrate the fate of the sufferers, usually conclude by exhorting them to be ready, should the times call for it, to resist to the death in the cause of civil and religious liberty, Uke their brave forefathers." It is also related by GUfiUan, that a minister from this vi cinity, having once lost his way in traveUing through a distant part of Scotiand, vainly solicited the services of a guide for some time, all being engaged in peat-cutting ; at last one of the farmers, some of whose ancestors had been included among the sufferers, discovering that he came from this vicinity, had seen the gravestones, and could repeat the inscriptions, was wUling to give up half a day's work to guide him on his way. It is weU that such spots should be venerated as sacred BUNNY MEMORIES OF FOEEIGN LANDS. 97 shrines among the descendants of the Covenanters, to whom Scotiand owes what she is, and all she may become. It was here that Scott first became acquainted with Robert Paterson, the original of Old Mortality. Leaving Stonehaven we passed, on a rising ground a Uttle to our left, the house of the celebrated Barclay of Ury. It remains very much in its ancient condition, surrounded by a . low stone wall, like the old fortified houses of Scotland. Barclay of Ury was an old and distinguished soldier, who had fought under Gustavus Adolphus in Germany, and one of the earliest converts to the principles of the Friends in Scotiand. As a Quaker, he became an object of hatred and abuse at the hands of the magistracy and populace ; but he endured all these insults and injuries -with the greatest pa tience and nobleness of soul. " I find more satisfaction," he said, " as weU as honor, in being thus insulted for my religious principles, than when, a few yeiirs ago, it was usual for the magistrates, as I passed the city of Aberdeen, to meet me on the road and conduct me to public entertainment in their haU, and then escort me out again, to gain my favor." Whittier has celebrated this incident in his beautiful baUad, called " Barclay of Ury." The son of this Barclay was tho author of that Apology wluch beai-s liis name, and is stiU a standard work among the Friends. The estate is stUl pos sessed by his descendants. A Uttie farther along towards Aberdeen, Mr, S. seemed to amuse himself very much with the idea, that we were coming near to Dugald Dalgetty's estate of Drumthwacket, an histor ical remembrance which I take to be somewhat apocryphal. It was towards the close of thc afternoon that we found VOL. I. 9 98 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS, ourselves crossing the Dee, in view of Aberdeen, My spirits were wonderfuUy elated: the grand sea scenery and fine bracmg air ; the noble, distant view of the city, rising with its harbor and shipping, aU filled me with deUght. Besides which the Dee had been enchanted for me from my chUd hood, by a wUd old baUad which I used to hear sung to a Scottish tune, equaUy wUd and pathetic. I repeated it to C , and wUl now to you. " The moon had cUmbed the highest hill That rises o'er the banks of Dee, And from her farthest summit poured Her silver light o'er tower and tree, — ¦When Mary laid her do-wn to sleep, Her thoughts on Sandy far at sea, And soft and low a voice she heard. Saying, ' Mary, weep no more for me.' She from her pillow gently raised Her head, to see who there might be ; She saw young Sandy shivering stand. With paUid cheek and hoUow ee, ' O Mary dear, cold is my clay ; It lies beneath the stormy sea ; The storm is past, and I'm at rest ; So, Mary, weep no more for me.' Loud crew the cock ; the vision fled ; No more young Sandy could she see ; But soft a parting whisper said, 'Sweet Mary, weep no more for me.' " I never sJiw these lines in print any where ; I never knew who wrote them ; I had only heard them sung at the fireside when a chUd, to a tune as dreamy and sweet as themselves ; but they rose upon me like an enchantment, as I crossed the SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS, 99 Dee, in view of that very German Ocean, famed for its storms and shipwrecks. In this propitious state, disposed to be pleased with every thing, our hearts responded warmly to the greetings of the many friends who were waiting for us at the station house. The lord provost received us into his carriage, and as we drove along, pointed out to us the various objects of interest in the beautiful town. Among other things, a fine old bridge across the Dee attracted our particular attention. We were conducted to the house of Mr. Cruikshank, a Friend, and found waiting for us there the thoughtful hospi tality which we had ever experienced in aU our stopping- places. A snug Uttle quiet supper was laid out upon the table, of which we partook in haste, as we were informed that the assembly at the haU were waiting to receive us. There arrived, we found the hall crowded, and with difficul ty made our way to the platform. Whether owing to the stimulating effect of the air from the ocean, or to the com paratively social aspect of the scene, or perhaps to both, cer tain it is, that we enjoyed the meeting with great zest. I was surrounded on the stage with blooming young ladies, one of whom put into my hands a beautiful bouquet, some fiowers of which I have now dried in my album. The re freshment tables were adorned with some exquisite wax flowers, the work, as I was afterwards told, of a young lady in the place. One of the designs especiaUy interested me. It was a group of water lilies resting on a minor, which gave them the appearance of growing in the water. We had some very animated speaking, in which the speak ers contrived to blend enthusiastic admiration and love for America with detestation of slavery. 100 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. AU the afternoon thfe beautiful coast had reminded me of the State of Maine, and the genius of the meeting confirmed the association. They seemed to me to be a plain, genial, strong, warm-hearted people, like those of Maine. One of the speakers concluded his address by saying that John BuU and Brother Jonathan, with Paddy and Sandy Scott, should they clasp hands together, might stand against the world ; which sentiment was responded to with thunders of applause. It is because America, like Scotland, has stood for right against oppression, that the Scotch love and sympathize with her. For this reason do they feel it as something taken from the strength of a common cause, when America sides -with injustice and oppression. The chUdren of the Covenant and the children of the Puritans are of one blood. They presented an offering in a beautiful embroidered purse, and after much shaking of hands we went home, and sat down to the supper table, for a Uttle more chat, before going to bed. The next morning, — as we had only till noon to stay in Aberdeen, — our friends, the lord provost, and Mr. Leslie, the architect, came immediately after breakfast to show us the place. The town of Aberdeen is a very fine one, and owes much of its beauty to the light-colored granite of which most of the houses are buUt. It has broad, clean, beautiful streets, and many very curious and interesting pubUc buUdings. The town exhibits that union of the hoary past with the bustUng present which is characteristic of the old world. It has two parts, the old and the new, as unUke as L' Al legro and Penseroso — the new, clean, and modem ; the old, mossy and dreamy. The old to-wn is called "ARonTand has SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. 101 venerable houses, standing, many of them, in ancient gardens. And here rises the pecuUar, old, gray cathedraL These Scotch cathedrals have a sort of stubbed appearance, and look like the expression in stone of defiant, invincible resolution. This is of primitive granite, in the same heavy, massive style as the cathedral of Glasgow, but having strong individuaU ties of its own. Whoever located the ecclesiastical buildings of England and Scotland certainly had an exquisite perception of natural scenery; for one notices that they are almost invariably placed on just that point of the landscape, where the poet or the artist would say they should be. These cathedrals, though all having a general simUarity of design, seem, each one, to have its own personahty, as much as a human being. Look ing at nineteen of them is no compensation to you for omitting the twentieth ; there will certainly be something new and peculiar in that. This Aberdeen Cathedral, or Cathedral of St. Machar, is situated on the banks of the River Don ; one of those beauti ful amber-brown rivers that color the stones and pebbles at the bottom with a yeUow Ught, such as one sees in ancient pictures. Old trees wave and rustle around, and the buUding itself, though a part of it has faUen into ruins, has, in many parts, a wonderful clearness and sharpness of outUne. I can not describe these things to you ; architectural terms convey no picture to the mind. I can only teU you of the character and impression it beai-s — a character of strong, unflinching endurance, appropriately reminding one of the Scotch people, whom Walter Scott compares to the native sycamore of their hills, " which scorns to be biased in its mode of growth, even by the influence of the prevailing wmd, but shooting its 9* 1 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOEEIGN LANDS. bran 3 with equal boldness in every direction, shows no weather side to the storm, and may be broken, but can never be bended." One reason for the sharpness and distinctness of the archi tectural preservation of this cathedral is probably that close ness of texture for which Aberdeen granite is remarkable. It bears marks of the hand of violence in many parts. The images of saints and bishops, which Ue on their backs -with clasped hands, seem to have been wofuUy maltreated and despoUed, in the fervor of those days, when people fondly thought that breaking down carved work was getting rid of superstition. These granite saints and bishops, with their mutilated fingers and broken noses, seem to be bearing a sUent, melancholy witness against that disposition in human nature, which, instead of making clean the cup and platter, breaks them altogether. The roof of the cathedral is a splendid specimen of carv ing in black oak, wrought in panels, with leaves and inscrip tions in ancient text. The church could once boast in other parts (so says an architectural work) a profusion of carved woodwork of the same character, which must have greatly relieved the massive plainness of the interior. In 1 649, the parish minister attacked the " High Altar," a piece of the most splendid workmanship of any thing of the kind in Europe, and which had to that time remained invio late ; perhaps from the insensible influence of its beauty. It is said that the carpenter employed for the purpose was so struck with the noble workmanship, that he refused to touch it tiU the minister took the hatchet from his hand, and gave the first blow. These men did not consider that « the leprosy Ues deep SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. ' ^3 within," and that when human nature is denied beauti /idols, it wiU go after ugly ones. There has been just as unspiritual a resting in coarse, bare, and disagreeable adjuncts of reUgion, as in beautiful and agreeable ones ; men have worshipped Juggemaut as pertinaciously as they have Venus or the Graces ; so that the good divine might better have aimed a sermon at the heart than an axe at the altar. We Ungered a long time around here, and could scarcely tear ourselves away. We paced up and do-wn under the old trees, looking off on the waters of the Don, Ustening to the wav ing branches, and faUing into a dreamy state of mind, thought what if it were six hundred years ago ! and we were pious simple hearted old abbots ! What a fine place that would be to walk up and down at eventide or on a Sabbath moming, reciting the penitential psalms, or reading St. Augustine ! I cannot get over the feeling, that the souls of the dead do somehow connect themselves with the places of their former habitation, and that the hush and thriU of spirit, which we feel in them, may be owing to the overshadowing presence of the invisible. St. Paul says, " We are compassed about with a great cloud of witnesses." How can they be -witnesses, if they cannot see and be cognizant ? We left the place by a winding walk, to go to the famous bridge of Balgounie, another dream-land affair, not far from here. It is a single gray stone arch, apparentiy cut from solid rock, that spans the brown rippUng waters, where -wild, overhanging banks, shadowy trees, and dippmg wUd flowers, aU conspire to make a romantic picture. This bridge, -with the river and scenery, were poetic items that went, -with other things, to form the sensitive nund of Byron, who Uved here in his earUer days. He has some Unes about it : — 104 sunny' memories op foreign lands. " As ' auld lang syne ' brings Scotland, one and all, Scotch plaids, Scotch snoods, the blue hills and clear streams. The Dee, the Don, Balgounie's brig's black wall. All my boy-feeUngs, all ray gentler dreams. Of what I then dreamt clothed in their own pall, Like Banquo's ofi'spring, — floating past me seems My childhood, in this chUdishness of mind : I care not — 'tis a glimpse of ' auld lang sync.' " %l¦*'v^s., This old bridge has a prophecy connected with it, which was repeated to us, and you shaU have it Uteratim : — " Brig of Balgounie, black's your wa', Wi- il. -wife's ae son, and a mare's a foal, Doon ye shall fa' ! " The bridge was built in the time of Robert Bruce, by one SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS, 105 Bishop Cheyne, of whom all that I know is, that he evidentiy had a good eye for the picturesque. After this we went to visit King's CoUege. The tower of it is surmounted by a massive stone crown, which forms a very singular feature in every view of Aberdeen, and is said to be a perfectly unique specimen of architecture. This King's CoUege is very old, being founded also by a bishop, as far back as the fifteenth century. It has an exquisitely carved roof, and carved oaken seats. We went through the Ubrary, the hall, and the museum. Certainly, the old, dark archi tecture of these universities must tend to form a different style of mind from our plain matter-of-fact coUege buUdings. Here in Aberdeen is the veritable Marischal CoUege, so often quoted by Dugald Dalgetty. We had not time to go and see it, but I can assure you on the authority of the guide book, that it is a magnificent specimen of arcliitecture. After this, that wc might not neglect the present in our zeal for thc past, we went to the marble yards, where they work the Aberdeen granite. This granite, of whieh we have many specimens in America, is of two kinds, one being gray, the other of a reddish hue. It seems to differ from other granite in the fineness and closeness of its grain, which enables it to receive the most briUiant c^onceivable poUsh. I saw some superb columns of the red species, which were preparing to go over the Baltic to Riga, for an Exchange ; and a sepul cliral monument, which was going to New York. All was busy here, sawing, cliipping, poUshing ; as different a scene from the gray old cathedral as cotUd be imagined. The gran ite finds its way, I suppose, to countries which the old, unso phisticated abbots never dreamed of. One of the friends who had accompanied us during the 106 SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. morning tour was the celebrated architect, Mr. LesUe, whose conversation gave us aU much enjoyment. He and Mrs. LesUe gave me a most invaluable parting present, to wit, four volumes of engravings, representing the " Baronial and Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland," Ulustrated by Billings. I cannot teU you what a mine of pleasure it has been to me. It is a proof edition, and the engra-vings are so -yi-pid, and the drawing so fine, that it is nearly as good as reality. It might almost save one the trouble of a pilgrimage. I con sider the book a kind of national poem ; for architecture is, in its nature, poetry ; especially in these old countries, where it weaves into itself a nation's history, and gives literaUy the image and body of the times. SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 107 LETTER VII. Dear Cousin: — WhUe here in Aberdeen I received a very odd letter, so peculiar and curious that I wUl give you the benefit of it. The author appears to be, in his way, a kind of Christopher in his cave, or Timon of Athens, I omit some parts which are more expressive than agreeable. It is dated " STOKEnA-VEN, N. B., Kincardineshire, 67° N. W. This 21st AprU, 1853. 3.1 "To Mrs. Harriet B. Stowe: — " My dear Madam : By the time that this gets your length, the fouk o' Aberdeen will be shewin ye off as a rare animal, just arrived frae America ; the wife that writ Uncle Tom's Cabin. " I wad like to see ye mysel, but I canna -win for want o' siller, and as I thought ye might be writin a buke about thc Scotch when ye get hame, I hae just sent ye this bit auld key to Sawney's Cabin. " WeU then, dinna forget to speer at the Aberdeenians if it be true they ance kidnappet little laddies, and seit them for slaves ; that they dang down the Quaker's kirkyard dyke, and houket up dead Quakers out o' their graves ; that the young boys at the college printed a buke, and maist naebody wad buy it, and they cam out to Ury, near Stonehaven, and took twelve stots frae Davie Barclay to pay the printer. "Dinna forget to speer at , if it was true that he flogget three laddies in the beginning o' last year, for the three following crimes : first, for fhe crime of being born of puir, 108 SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS. ignorant parents ; second, for the crime of being left in igno rance ; and, third, for the crime of having nothing to eat. " Dinna be teUing when ye gang hame that ye rode on the Aberdeen railway, made by a hundred men, who were aU in the Stonehaven prison for drunkenness ; nor above five could sign their names. "If the Scotch kUl ye with ower feeding and making speeches, be sure to send this hame to tell your fouk, that it was Queen EUzabeth who made the first European law to buy and seU human beings Uke brute beasts. She was England's glory as a Protestant, and Scotland's shame as the murderer of their bonnie Mary. The auld hag skulked away like a coward in the hour of death. Mary, on the other hand, with calmness and dignity, repeated" a Latin prayer to the Great Spirit and Author of her being, and calmly resigned herself into the hands of her murderers. "In the capital of her ancient kingdom, when ye are in our country, there are eight hundred women sent to prison every year for the first time. Of fifteen thousand prisoners ex amined in Scotland in the year 1845, eight thousand could not write at aU, and three thousand could not read. " At present there are about twenty thousand prisoners in Scotland. In Stonehaven they are fed at about seventeen pounds each, annuaUy. The honest poor, outside the prison upon the parish roU, are fed at the rate of five farthings a day, or two pounds a year. The employment of the prisoners is grinding the wind, we ca' it; tuming the crank, in plain EngUsh. The latest improvement is the streekin board ; it's a whig improvement o' Lord Jonnie RusseU's. "I ken brawly ye are a curious wife, and would Uke to ken a' about the Scotch bodies. Weel, they are a gay, ignorant, proud, drunken pack ; they manage to pay ilka year for SUNNY MEMORIES OP FOREIGN LANDS. 109 whuskey one mUUon three hundred and forty-eight thousand pounds, " But then their piety, their piety ; weel, let's lake at it ; hing it up by the nape o' the neck, and tum it round atween our finger and thumb on aU sides, "Is there one school in aU Scotland where the helpless, homeless poor are fed and clothed at the pubUc expense ? None, , " Is there a hame in aU Scotland for the cleanly but sick servant maid to go tiU, untU health be restored ? Alas ! there is none. " Is there a school in all Scotland for training ladies in the higher branches of leaming? None. What then is there for the women of Scotland ? " A weel, be sure and try a cupful of Scottish KaU Broase. See, and get a sup Scotch lang milk. " Hand this bit Une yout to the Rev, Mr. . TeU liim to skore out fats nae true. " God bless you, and set you safe hame, is the prayer of the old Scotch Bachelor," I think you wiU agi-ee with me, that the old testifying spirit does not seem to have died out in Scotland, and that the baek- slicUngs and abominations of thc land do not want for able exponents. As the indictment runs back to the time of Charles II., to the persecutions of the Quakers in the days of Barclay of Ury, and brings up against the most modern offences, one can not but feel that there are the most savory indic