4- ''^:1 . ..!<. , l.i tJ ('tf,1 {HI J?f< < I. 41 . ' ' YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY LONDONi BEIiTG AN ACCURATE HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THE BRITISH METROPOLIS AND ITS r ¦ ¦ TO '¦ "^ • THIRTY. MILES EXTENT, jFroifi an aftual Peramtiulation. By DAVID HUGHSON, LL.D. VOL. II. vyiiere finds PhiloBophy her Eagle Eye, , With which she gazes at yan burning Disk Undazzled, and detects and coi^nts his Spots' 111 LONDON. Where her Implements exact. With which she calculates, cominites, and scans * All Distance, Motion, Magnitude ; and now Measures an Atom, and now girds a World ? In LONDON. Where has Commerce such a ^ftrt, So rich , so tlirong'd, so drain*d, and so supplied As LONDON, opulent, enlarged, and still Increasing LONDON I ^ COWPSR, * LONDON: PniNTED sr W. STOATFOIin ,CI10WN.C0URT, TEMPLE-BAR FOR J. STRATFORD, No. 112, HOLBORN-HILL, ANO SOLD BY ALL OTHER JBOOKSELLERS, 1805. ITS TRADE, COMMERCE, AND MANUFACTURES. THE present flourishing condition of London has arisen, from a variety of happy incidents ; thus we may bring into the scale, that itis the metropolis of the land of rational liberty ; that the integrity of its merchants has induced uni- ' versal commerce ; that its police is exemplary ; and that its charitable institutions are unbounded. Its prerogatives, en franchisements, immunities, charters, and liberties, are also encouragements to those kjnds of speculation, which give to London a decided precedence in universal traffic. To commerce and manufacture may juftly be attributed the stability of empire, and the opulence of individuals; they encourage an universal spirit of industry, remove local prejudices, and elevate the mind to magnanimity and wisdom. Whatever seems necessary for sensual or intellec tual gratifications; for the ease, convenience, or elegance, of life; are- primarily^ or mediately, communicated by commerce. And, in proportion as this has been encouraged or depressed by different states, their progress in arts, ma nufactures, and science, is correctly marked ; and by them the virtues of their princes, an.d the vigour of their Jaws. . Nothing more amply demonstrates the, truth of this' remark Vol. il No. 27. A than LONDON. than tlie prosperity of the British empire, which is pecnfi- ariy indebted to commerce,— for its improvement in know ledge and the polite arts— for its riches and grandeur — for the glory of its arms— and, in short, for the great bulk of all its solid comforts and conveniencies. We have in various parts of the preceding history noticed the early progress of commerce in London, the gradations 6f which have been as extraordinary as they have been rapid ; and though it may astonish our readers, yet when it is under stood, that nearly 100,000^. is the weekly sum of the cus toms on the universal extent of foreign commerce, their wonder will cease, and they will find that this increase has been tbe gradual result of national perseverance, industry, and spirit, applied to an unbounded pursuit of successful navigation, trade, commerce,, and manufacture ; all center ing in the grand mart of the world, where the Temple of Freedom is hallowed-— where protection is extended alike to alien and native--and where equal law, secures the property of the nobleman arid tlie peasant *. The ¦*= It may not here be amiss, to give the reader, from a late ingenious publication, some idea of the immense enhanced value of many manu factures, from their first raw or unimproved material, to their produce at a market. " One hundred pounds,'' says this author, " laid put in wool, and that wool manufactured into goods for the Turkey market, and raw silk brought home in return, and manufactured here, will in crease that one hundred pounds to five thousand pounds — which quan tity of silk manufactures being sent to New Spain, would return ten thousand pounds. — which vast improvement of the first hundred pounds, ^ becomes, in a few years, dispersed aniong all orders and degrees, from the prince to the peasant. Thus, again, a parcel of iron-stone, which, when first taken from its natural bed, was not worth fitfe shiUings, when made into iron and steel, and thence into various manufactures- for foreign markets, may probably bring home to the amount of ten thousand pounds. Steel may be made near {hree hundred times dearer than standard gold, weight for weight — for, six of the finest steel wire springs, for watch pendulums, shall weigh but one grain; and, when applied by our best artists, they shall be worth 7s. 6d. each, or 21. 5s. for the six, or two hundred and seventy-two peaces ; whereas one grain of gold is but worth two-pence. Again, twenty acres of fine flax, when manufactured into the dearest and most proper goeds for foreign markets, 4 LONDON. The c whilst those who despise the circumstances of the citizen, boast an ancestry, who have reduced the family estate into necessity and pecuniary disease. * Poitleihwaite' s Diclionaiy. of Ommercc. - ¦ The LONDON. The estates gained by the citizens, are not obtained how ever, by niggardly conduct ; nor improved by meanness ; this is evident, from. the expensive mode in which many of thetn live on their well-earned fortunes ; it is no unusual circumstance for a London Shoe-maker to keep a better ^ouse, spend more money, better doath his family, and yet grow rich, than many of his needy superiors, who arrogate to themselves a degree of false consequence, from the mere possessipn of five hundred pounds per year. Here,, how ever, is the difference :. an estate is, as it were, a pond — trade is a spring. Trade is so far from being inconsistent with a gentleman in this kingdom,, that it makes gentlemen, and has peopled, this nation with gentlemen, and will continue so to do, while it shalj be supported in proportion as it may be in neighbouring countries; for after a generation or two, the tradesmens children', orat least their grandchildren, become as good geatlemen, statesmen, parliament men, privy coun- cellors. Judges, bishops, and noblemen, as those of the higheflT- birth and the most antient families. By the happy constitution of this country, tl'ade, whether it be public or private, with respect to ifs antient or modern, its general or, particular laws, can be no degradation of cha racter. It is by commerce alone, that the British name hold.s. a proud superiority ; and it is by the stand which the citi-^ zens of London hiave always made in support of the credit and honour of the nation, that such superiority is maintain ed. Surely then trade is no degradation of nobility * ; and thiatjt is not so, let the following proofs testify ; Sir *¦ A' young gentleman, whose father had been an apprentice in Lon don, but of a good family, was insulted in company, because ho was not- ^ born a gentleman ; and it was implied that the father's apprenticeship \ h^d corrupted his blood. The father was therefore determined to have. the matter investigated : for this purpose, he employed Philipot, the he rald, to study this point, who, in his hook called " The City Advocate," determined, " that an apprentice in London is no dishonour nor degra dation, but rather an honor and a degree, and that it is very foolish to ^abase honest industry virith disgraceful censure, and unjust not to en- B ? ¦ courage, LONDON. Sir John Blount, mayftr of Londofl^ U Edward l.J<'^ stalled knight of the Bath, with Edward Prince of Wales. Sir Godfrey Fielding, mercer, maybr in 1452, was ap- Sir John Yoiing, Sir William Home, Sh' John Percn'al, Sir John Shaw, Sir John Allen, all mayors or sheriffs, were created either privy councellors, or knights bannerets, during thereigns of Henry VI. Edward IV. and till that of Henry VIII. ' Sir William Fitzwilliam, a merchant taylor, and servant to Catdinal Wolsey, was chosen alderman of Bread Street ward, in London, anfio 1506 : going afterwards to reside at M Itoh, in Northamptonshire, he *ten tertained at that place the Car-Iiilal, his former master, iti his misfortunes; for which being questioned by king Heflfy VIII. he answered, *' that he had not done it contemptuously, but because the Cardinal had been his master, and partly the means of raising' his fortune:" the king was so weUpleaSed with his gi-atitudcj that he knighted him, and made him a pfivy councellor. In bis last will, he gave to that monarch his large ship, with all her tackle ; to Sir Thomas Wriothesley, his collar of the Garter, together with his best George, set with diamonds; and to his brethren, the Merchant TayldrS, his best staridirig cup. He died in L'V42, and his will wSs pl'oted th^ 16.th of Febifuary, that year. This emitient citizen of London, at bis death, was knight of the Gatter, lotd keeper of the "Privy Seal, and chancellor ofthe Duchy pf Lancaster, and was the iihthediate ancestor to Earl FitzwiUiam. . The great Sir Thomas More, lord chancellor, was sheriff of London, in 1513. We will next enquire whether the prime of our antient and present nobility have not tbeir origin from citizens of Lon- courageit with, praise and virtue, as the antient policy of England did and doth, in coiisituting corporations and adorning the companies with' banners of arms, And especial members thereof with jlotpj oi" nobility.-^' S'.ryjit's Slo^.u. don. LONDON; don. To assist «s in this enquiry, the peerage of Great Bri tain informs us, that Rebecca, third daughter of Josiah Child, of Waristed, a citizen of London, was married to Charles Marquis of Worcester, son ofthe Duke of Beaufort>' in 1683 ; this lady was, also grandmother to the present Duke of Grafton. William, Marquis of Winchester, head ofthe noble honsB of Poulet; married first Elizabeth, daivThter of Sir William Capel, lord mayor, in 1.503; and second Winifred, daugh ter of Sir Joliil Bridges, lord mayor, in 1520. Sir Edward Seymour, ancestor of the present Duke of Somerset, who. died in ,n07, married Margaret, daughter of Sir William Wale, alderman. His grace of Leeds, boasts of his descent from Sir Edward Osborne, lord mayor, in 1584. Wrottesley, Duke of Bedford, in 1700, married Elizabeth Rowland, daughter of John Howland, esquire, of Streatham, a rich London me.jrchant, from which marriage; the dukal family of Bedford became possessed of tli^ StrSatbam estate, \yhich it now holds. Stephen Cavendish, one of the collateral ancestors of the poble family of Devonshire, was lord mayor in 1362. Montague, Earl of Lindsey, ancestor to the Duke of An- Caster, and lord high chatnberlain in 1666, married Martha, daughter of Sir William Cockaine, alderman. The ancestor of the Duke of Manchester, married for his second wife, the widow of Sir Leonard Holiday, alderman. James, Lord Charidos, married the daughter of Sir Henry Bernard, a Turkey merchant, in 1714., and Was father to the first duke of Chandos. John, Duke of Argyll and Greenwich, married the niece of Sir Charles Duncombe, lord mayor, in l70S. Richard Sackville, ancestor of the Dorset family, married Winifred, daughter of Sir John Bridges, by whom she had the first Earl of Dorset, lord high treasurer. Her second husband was the above Ma/qnis of Winchester. Lionel Cranfield, morcliaiit of London, was by James I. for his great abilities, made master of the requests, afterwards master 10 LONDON. master of the king's wardrobe, then master ofthe wards, a privy councellor, lord treasurer, and ICarl of Middlesex. Were we indined, we might trace the citizenship of Lon- don, through the whole extent of peerage; but, as it will be more to our purpose, to record such of the nobility as claim their descent more inmicdiately from the city. We place at the head of the list the exalted name of Corn waUis. His lordship's ancestor was John Comwallis, sheriff of London, in 1377. Richard Rich, was sheriff of London, in 1441, from him descended the Fails of Warwick and Holland, of that name. Sh- William Capel, knt. lord mayor in 1504, laid the foun dation of the noble house of Essex. William Coventry, sheriff, 1416, and mayor, 1425, an cestor of the Earl of Coventry. The Earl of Dartmouth descended from Thomas Leggc, mayor in 1360. The Earl of Tankerville is descended from an alderman of London, son of Ricliard Bennet, whose brother Sir Thomas Bennet, was mayor in 1603. John Cowper, merchant, was father of Sir William Cow per, bart. The family constantly matched with the daugh- tere of citizens, and the issue of one of these, was the gi-eat lord chancellor Cowper, Earl Cowper, who himself married Judith, daughter of Sir Robert Booth, a London ifaerchant. Christopher Sherrard, a citizen of London, was high sheriff of Rutland, in 1468, and ancestor to the late Earls of Har- |)orougb. The Earl of Pomfret is descended from Richard Fermor, merchant of the staple of Calais temp. Henry VIII. Thomas Mildmay, who married Avice, daughter of Wil- liap^ Gouston, of London, was ancestor of the late lords Fitz-walter. Sir John Thynne, by bis marriage with a daughter of Sir Richard Gresham, by whom he had a son Sir Thomas Thynne, who married a daughter of Sir Rowland Heyward, mayor in 1571, laid the foundation of the marquis of Bath's' family Sir LONDON. 11 Sif William Ward, a rich goldsmith, was father of Humble ^ard. Lord Ward; ancestor of the present Viscount Dudley and Ward. Sir William Petre, secretary of state to four kings and <}ueens, and seven times ambassador to foreign princes ; by his marriage with Anne, daughter of Sir William Brown, mayor, 1514, had issue John Lord Petre, the head of that noble family. John Bligh, esquire, of London, was agent ofthe London merchatits in Ireland ; the present Earl of Darnley is his de scendant. Sir Thomas Leigh, mayor, 1 Elizabeth, was the ancestor of the noble family of Leigh. Sir William Craven, mayor, 1611, by a daughter of Wil liam Whitmbre, merchant, had a son of his own name, created 1626, Lord Craven, from whom the present Lord is descended. Maurice Thompson, merchant of London, and govemor of the East India company, was father of John, created Lord Haversham, in 1696. Thomas Marsham, alderman of London, temp. James I. was ancestor to the Earl of Romney. Sir Robert Ducie, mayor in 1631, maternal ancestor to Lord Ducie. Sir Rowland Hill, mayor, 1550, ancestor to Lord Berwick, Sir Richard Hill, &c. Sir John Poulteney, four times mayor, temp, Edward III. ancestor to Pulteney, Earl of Bath, and the present countess of Bath. Sir William Hollesj mayor, 1539, ancestor of the noble family of Holies, Dukes of Newcastle, &c.' The present Lord Rodney married Anne, daughter of the latfralderman Harley, who being himsdf son of the Earl of Oxford, and mayor in 1768 ; was created a privy councellor by his present majesty. Among theScottish nobility, many instances occur of civil alliances; in our own time, the most reverend. the honourable Dr. Robert Drummond, late archbishop of York, married Henrietta, 2 IB LONDON. merchant of Henrietta, daughter of Peter Auriol, esquire, _ London, by whom he had the present Earl of Kmnoul, in right of his uncle. i _, . ~ Among the Irish nobihty, we notice Sir Richard Gore, ot London, merchant, temp, Elizabeth, ancestor of the Earl ot T?Qqg Sir Roger Jones, alderman of London, father of Dr. JOnes, archbishop of Dubhn, chancdlor, and lord justice of Irdand, te7}ip. Elizabeth and James I. ancestor of Lord Viscount Ra- nelagh. Sir William Luckyn, bart. having assumed the name of Grimstone, married Jane-, daughter of James Cook, citizen of London, was created baron and viscount Grimstone, and was ancestor of the present viscount. Jane, daughter of Sir John Bernard, mayor of London, was grandmother to theipresent Lord Viscount Palmerston. Sampson Gideon, esquire, mcrchc^t of London, grand father of Lord Eardley. His daughter married Lord Gage. The family of Verney, intermarried with several citizens and their relations. The conclusion drawn from the above premises is, trade )£ so far from debasing the character of a gentleman, that commerce in England enriches nobility ; and has been the means of peopling the nation with nobility ; we have therefore a right to insist, tliat the houses of Cliild, Hoare, Drum mond, Gosling, Curtis, Bosanquet, Peele, Dennison, White- bread, Kenton, &c. &c, claim as high acknowledgement in, the scale of consequence in these realms, as the houses ofthe most dignified members ofthe peerage. Who would have imagined, at the distance of three hun dred and fifty years, that the ports in the Levant, whence England aud Christendom were supplied, by the medium of the Venetians, with spices, drugs, &c. of India, China, ^nd other eastern climes, must ultimately be supplied with those very articles, by the country bf Great Britain, at an easier rate than when imported directly from the Indian shores. Such, however, is the fact ; and to prove it we subjoia the following statement : . . T« LONDON. 13 To Turkey are exported woollen cloths, tin, lead, and iron, «oIely in our own shipping; the importation is raw silk, cai*- pets, galls, and other dying ingredients ; cotton, fruits, me dicinal drugs, coffee, &c. ' The exportation to Itah/ is woollen goods of various kinds^ peltry, leather, lead, tin, fish, and East India merchandise ; the importation back, raw and thrown silk, wines, oil, soaji, olives, oranges, lemons, pomegranates, dried fruits, colours, anchovies, &c. To Spain are exported all kinds of woollen goods, leather, lead, tin, fish, corn, iron, and brass, manufactures, habere dashery wares^ assortments of linen from Germany and else where for her American colonies ; the returns are wines, oik, dried fruits, oranges, lemons^ olives^ wools, indigo, cochineal, and other dying drugs, coldurs, gold and .Silver coin, &c. To PoHugal is mostly sent the same kind of merchandise as to Spain ; and the returns are vast quantities of wines, oils, salt, dried and moist fruits, dyers' ingredients, and gold coins. To' France are exported tobacco, lead, tin, flannels, horn, hardware, Manchester goods, &c. and sometimes great quantities of corn ; the returns are wines, brandies, linens, cambrics, lace, velyets, brocades, &c To Flanders ar^ exported serges, flannels, tin, lead, sugars, and tobacco 5 the returns are fine lace, linens, cam brics, &c. The exportation to Germany is cloths and stuffs, tin^ pewter, sugars, tobacco, and East. India merthandi,se ; the reJturns linen, thread, goat-skins, tinned plates, timbers for all uses, wines, and many other articles. To Norteay, tobacco and woollen stuffs ; the returns vast quantities of deals and othfer timber. To S-jseden are sent most of our home manufactures ; the importation iron, timber, tar, copper, &c. The Russians take off great quantities of woollen cloths arid stuffs, tin, lead, tobacco, diamonds, household furniture, &c. and in rfeturn sends hemp, flax, linen, thread, furs, pot-, ash, iron, wax, tallow, &c. Vol. II. No. 28. C • The 14 LONDON. The, comttierce to Holland con.sists of an immense (Quan tity of different sorts of merchandise, such as all kinds of ¦woollen-goods, hides, corn, coals. East India and Turkey articles imported by those respective companies, tobaccq, tar, sugar, rice, ginger, and other American productions ; the Hollanders return fine linen, lace, cambrics, thread, tapes,' inkle, madder, boards, drugs, whalebone, train-oi], toys, and various other articles of that country. To America are sent English home manufactures of almost every kind ; and the returns are made in tobacco, sugars, rice, ginger, indigo, drugs, logwood, timber, &c. To the Coast of Guinea are sent various sorts of coarse woollen and linen goods, iron, pewter, brass, and hardware- manufactures, lead-shot, swords, knives, fire-arms, gun powder, glass-manufactures, &c. ; the importation consists of gold-dust, dying and medical drugs, red- wood, Guinea grains, ivory, &c. To Arabia, Persia, East Indies, and China., are sent much foreign silver coin and bullion, manufactures of lead, iron, and brass, woollen goods, '&c.; the returns'are muslins and cottons of various kinds, callicoes, raw and wrought silk, chintz, teas, coffee, porcelain, gold-dust, saltpetre, and many drugs for dyers' and medicinal uses. These are ex clusive of the trade of Ireland, Newfoundland, the West Indies, and many other settlements and factories in different parts of the world, which, likewise, constitutes an immense annual returii. The trade to the East Indies certainly constitutes one of the most stupendous political, as well as commercial, ma chines, to be met with in history. The trade itself is ex- elusive, and lodged in a company, which has a temporary monopoly of it, in consideration of money advanced to the government. In order to give amore distinct idea ofthe general commerce of the city, it may be necessary to notice that the business of the various branches of trade is transacted by incorporated companies, who mostly have separate halls and other con veniences, for the more speedy transaqtion of their mercan- . ^ ' tile lONDON. 15 tile concerns.' Of these, the precedence of right is given to the halls of the handicraft companies, from among which the thief magistrates are always chosen. Many of these are so antient and opulent, that several monarchs of the realm have thobght it an additional honour to be incorporated into the fraternity ; but there cannot be a greater test of the riches of their funds, than the charities they annually dispense. Twenty-three of these companies dispose of benefactions to the amount of 23,6551. If but 40/. be given by each of the remainder, the expenditure would amount to the vast sum of 27,000/. per annum. What metropolis in the universe has so great, so amiable, so divine a boast I — We do not take into this account the numberless other public charities Avith which the city of London and its neighbqurhood abounds. The Commerce qf the City, as ascertained in 1798. _ Ships including their repeated Voyages. Aggregate Tonnage. Value of Imports. - ; ^ Value of Exports. Foreign and Colo- ? _ „ . - nial Trade, &c. S^'^*^ Foreign Coasting, Guernsey, Jersey, ? ^g &c, - - - - J Ireland • - - " 276 British Coasting. Coal Trade - - 3,676 England andWales 5,816 Scotland - - - 684 525,148 5,344 32,824 636,000 500,000 60,000 £¦ s. d. 23,059,533 7 6 218,916 i2 8 1,878,971 7 2 1,700,000 0 0 3,900,000 e 0 200,000 0 0 £. s. d. 26,387,363 18 ,4 83,281 12 X 659,922 14 1 10,000 0 0 2,200,000 0 0 300,000 0 0 13,444 1,779,316 3Q,957,421 7 4 29,640,568 . 4 6 30,937,421 7 4 Total Imports and Exports - - £¦ 60,597,989 11 IQ C 2 To JC LONDON, . To which add Inland Trade, tsfc r fiO 597,989 11 l.Q Total oflmports and Exports brought over X-o"'^ tocal Trade withiu the 1 Barges and ?unts, &c. "» limits of the Port in / including repeatea i , -gg q 9 Upper and Lower V-88 voyages with Grain, r , Thames, and the river \ Mah, Timber, &c. I Lea - - - - - J estimated at - ¦ -» Add also the Value of British Shippii^g, i^c. I^i.i ruoir^SigrTrarel7.600,000 0 0- «11'' ],418^olirer--.--'NoO,000 0 0 °^°^ 496 England) „„ , . §1m" j 32 wiles [Coasters 525,000 0 0 l5« H a 6 l 97 Scotland ' « 0,0) 2 tt l""^" L c Doat, - - -^ . 9,200,000 ' 0 0 aiin??^'^^"^ ^"^^^^ ^"'^J 350,000 0 0 J5U/^ Traders - -S f Wherries, Bum- 7 3349 ¦{ boats, & Peter- I. 25,000 0 0 C boats - - 'J 9300 Total property in the River 1 ,o,032,989 11 10 ., Thames, annually -J Thus it would appear, that the estimated value of the commertial property which floats in tbe river Thames, in the course of a year, exceeds seventy millions sterling I When to this we add tbe coals, and goods of all kinds, con stantly exposed in craft ; ships of war, gun-boats, and trails- ports ; the hoys for conveying naval, victualling, ordnance, and military stores, to and from the public arsenals at Dept- ford, Woolwich, Sheerness, and Chatham, to ships of war and transports on the river ; aud to and from dock yards at Portsmouth and Plymouth : all which must, in the course of a year, amount to at least five millions. The whole will present an aggregate of seventy-five millions sterling of float ing property *. It is thus proved, that the greatness of Britain is not so much owing to war and conquest, as to that vast basis of her glory — Trade and Commerce ! • Colqukim's Commerce ofthe River Thames. Governmentf LONDON. , ?n Government, Magistracy, Police, &^c. The city and liberties are under three distinct govern. ments, civil, ecclesiastical, and military. The civil divides it into wards and precincts, under a mayor, aldermen, sheriffs, and common council ; the ecclesiastical is under a bishop, archdeacon, and subordinate clergy ; and the military government under the power of a lieutenancy, which is veiled in the mayor, aldermen, and principal citizens ; the city being erected by charter a county corporate and a lieu tenancy by itself. The civil government resembles in every respect the le gislative power of the empire ; the mayor, exercising the functions of monarchy, the aldermen those of peerage, and the common council those of the third branch of the national legislature. The mayor, or as he is by courtesy denominated the lord mayor, is the supreme magistrate ; and is an officer of the highest importance. He is the king's immediate locum ienens, or deputy in the city, of London, His office was distinguished in ancient times by the title of portgrave or earl of the city. * He was constituted by Henry I. justiciary or keeper of the pleas of the crown. As the head of the eity, he is the principal in all commissions of felony, &c. and the chief judge for the gaol delivery at the sessions of Newgate*. He is conservator for the river Thames and Medway f ; and in every Concern of the river Lea, he is always •^ The judges of this Court are the lord mayor, aldermen that are passed^the chair, andthe recorder, , who on all such occasions are at tended by both the sheriffs, and generaUy by one or more of the national judges.' f This court is yearly held eight times before the lord mayor, at such places and times «s his lordship shall think fit to appoint, within the re spective counties of Middlesex, Essex, Kent, and Surrey '5 in which se veral counties he has a power of summoning juries, who for the better preservation of the fishery of the river Thames, and regulation of the fishermen that fish therein, are upon oath to make inquisition of alt offences committed in and upon the said yiver, from Staines Bridge in the west is LONDON. always in the cpmmission. He is coi'oher within the city and its libeities, and chief biitler to the king at his corona tion. No corporation business is valid without his aathority ; and westtoYenfleteintheeast; artd to present all persons that are found guilty of a breach of the following ordinances. First, That no person shall shoot any draw-net, &c. at any^tirae of the year before suli-rising or at'ter sun-setting ; that no fisherman shall stilt-lie, or bend over any net during the time ofthe flood, whereby sal mons, &c. may be hindered and kept back from swimming upwards ; I, that no fisherman, or others, shall use any spear called an eel-spear, nor exercise any flue-trammel, double-walled net, or hooped net, to destroy the fry of fish ; that no fisherman use any mill-pot?, or other engines, with the heads thereof against the stream ; that no fisherman shall rug for flounders between London Bridge and Westminster, &c. but only two casts at low water, and two casts at high water ; and that no floun der be taken under the size of six inches j that no fisherman, or other, fish with or use any angle with more than two hooks upon a line, within the limits of London Bridge.; that np Peter-men fish further westward than Richmond, to which place the water ebbs and flows ; that no fisher man keep two boys in one boat, unless one be at man's estate ; nor take up any wreck or drift upon the Water, without notice to the water- bailiff, &c. and all fishermen shall be i-fegistered, &c. under divers pe nalties and forfeitures. • These orders are for regulating the fish westward, between London Bridge and Stanes Bridge ; and there are several orders for the govern ment of the fishery eastward, between London Bridge and Yendale, , touching unlawful taking of smelts, whitings, shads, fish out of season, royal fish ; such as whales, sturgeons, porpusses, &c. and preserving the same, at the court of conservacy of the river Thames. By an order of the 10th of July, 1673, no person shall draw the shores inthe river of Thames, save only for salmon, by persons empowered, &c. and none shall fish with a net under six inches in the meash, on pain of 201. and the water-bailiff hath power to authorize two honest fishermen in any town, &c. to be assistant to him in searching for and seizing unlawful nets, &c, no fisherman, or other person, shall cast any soil, gravel, or rubbish, in the Thames, whereby banks or shelves are raised, and the common passage hindered, nor drive any piles or stakes in the said river, upon which the Hke danger may arise, on the penalty ' of 101. ' .And by statute 27 Henry VIII. if any person shall procure any thing to be done to the annoyance of the Thames, in making of shelves, min ing, digging, &c, or take away any boards or stakes, undermine banks, walls, &c. he shall forfeit 51. And, LONDON. 19 *nd should another mayor be chosen for the next year in the absence of the present mayor, he being living, thp election would be void. The estate of this magistrate is princely. His attendants are the sword-bearer, common hunt, common cryer, and water-bailiff, all esquires by their office ; beside thirty other daily servitors, who have all their domestics. On state occasions, the lord mayor is superbly habited, either in a kilotted govyn, like that of the lord chancellor ; a crimson velvet gown whenever he precedes the king ; and on lesser ceremonials, he is dressed in a scarlet cloth gown and hood, or one of mazarine bide silk ; the three latter robes richly furred, He has besides a riph collar of S. S, with a jewel append§,nt, or a double chain of gold tp distinguish hi^ office. The day of his taking upon him the office was formerly considered as a grand gala day ; the cavalcade by water and land was magnificent ; and on many occasions, the royal fa mily have graced the entertainment with their presence,, This stately, pomp has however very considerably diminish ed ;' the lord mayor, upon the death of the king, is said to be the prime person of England ; for Sir Robert Lee, then lord mayor, was the first subscribing witness, when Janies I. - was invited to take upon himself the government. Time out of mind, the mayor of London hath been of such high esteem, that in all writings or addresses, the title of Lord is prefixed, " which," as Stow adds, '* is given to none but to noblemen, bishops, and judges ; and of late years to the mayor of York." The. person of this magistrate was formerly held invio lable; for during a'riot in the time of Edward III. two per sons assaulted and struck the mayor ; for which they were instantly seized and beheaded in Cheapside j the king ap plauding the measure. And, for the more effectual preservation ofthe navigation and fish in the river Thames, the lord mayor, as conservator thereof, has his assist ant, or deputy, the water-bailiif; who, together with his substitutes, detect and bring to justice all such persons as shall presume to destroy either the current or the fish of the said river, A list 30 LONDON. . A list of mayors who have rendered themselves famous by their patriotic and virtuous actions, is subjoined : 1283. Henry Wallis, built the Tun upon Cornbill to be a prison for nigbt-walkers ; Stocks Market for fish and foWl; and erected several tenements round St. Paul's Church Yard, the profits of which he appropriated to the repair of I,on- don Bridge. 1337. Sir John Poulteney, draper, built a chapel in St. Paul's, where he was buried; founded a college in the parish church, called from him St, Lawrence Poultney; erected the church of AUhallows the Less, Thames Street ; and the church of the Carmelite Friars, Coventry, He gave relief to the prisoners in Newgate and the Fleet, and ten shillings per year to the hospital of St. Giles, in High Hol- born, for ever. His other charities were unbounded. ¦ 1358. John Stody, vintner, gave all the ground on which Vintner's Hall and alms-houses now stand. ^363. Henry Picard. We have before mentioned the entertainment he gave to four kings and their suite. 1367. John Lofken, fishmonger, four times mayor, built Magdalen Hospital, Kingston upon Thames, and St. Michael, Crooked Lane, where he was buried. . 1371. John Barnes gave a chest with three locks, con taining one thousand marks, to be lent to young men upon sufficient pawn ; he built great part of the church of St. Thomas the Apostle, Queen Street. . 1378. John Philpot, hired with his own property, one thousand soldiers, and defended the realm from the incur sions of the enemy ; so that in a short space, his men took John Mercer, a pirate, and all the ships he had taken frora Scarborough, besides fifteen Spanish ships richly laden. In J 380, Thomas Woodstock, Thomas Percy, Hugh Calverley, &c. being sent to aid the Duke of Bretagne, this patriotic magistrate hired ships for them at his own charge, and re leased the armour which the soldiers had pledged for victuals, , to the amount of one thousand suits *. 1381. • " This most noble citizen," saith Thomas Walsingham, " that had travelled for the commodity of the whole realm, more than all others of his LONDOT^. 2i isii. -The famous Sir William Walworth, ^dded to'the i6hurch of St. Michael,' Crooked Lane; and foufided a col- tt^e there. . • , 1391. Adam Bamme, goldgmith, in a ^reat dfearth, im ported large quantities of corn from foreign countries, suffi cient to sii|irp1y the wants of the city and adjacent country. I 1400. Sir Thomas Knowles, grocer, erected the present Structure of Guildhall ; re-edified' St. Anthony's Church, and gav6 to his cdmpany,' his man^bn house, foi: the relief •of. the poor,' for ever. He also caused ^Vater to be con- iveyed to Ne^giitft and Ludg^te,! for the relief of the pri soners. .- • 1405, John Hind, dr^er,. rebuilt the cbUrchof .St,¦Swi- ¦thin, London Stpne; , < ' 1406. Sir John Woodcock,-, hiercery causfed all the wears on the rivet Thames, from Staines to the Medway, to be de stroyed. 1408.' Sir DreTif Barentinej goldsmith, built great part of Goldsmith Street, asnd gave lands, &e. to the company. 1414. Thomis Falconer, merger, lent to Idng Henry V. tovi'ards the mafntenapfce of his, wars in France, ten thousand marks in jewels. Among many other acts of his beneficence towards the city, he caused the ditches to be cleansed, the *frall4 to bfe repaired, aiSi contributed Moorgate, as aft or nament. ¦ : 1416. Sir Henry Barton, skinner, ordered lanthorris to be hung out in winter evenings, from AUhallows, Day t6 Candlemas.'^ 1419. : Sir Wi lliani Sevenoke, founded a school and altas- house at S'evenoaks, in Kent. ; 1421. , Sir Richard Whittington. His behefactions haV6 been before mentioned. 1422. Sir Robert Chicheley, grocer, gave a plot of ground on which stands the church of St. Stephen Walbrook. He also appointed by will, that on his birth-day, a competent his time, had often relieved the king, by lending him great sums of inoney ; died in 1384, after he had assured lan.ds to the city, for the re- Jief of thirteen poor people for ever. Stoiu. Vot. IL No. 28. D ' iinner «2 LONDON. dinner for two thousand four hundred poor citizens, house holders, who were to have besides, two pence each *. 1427. Sir John Rainwdl, fishmonger, gave several te nements to discharge certain wards of London of fifteenths, and other taxes. 1433. Sir John de Welles,- erected a chapel at Guildhall, where he was buried. He also conveyed water from Tyburn to West Cheap, for the use of the citizens. 1438. Sir William Eastfield, mercer, kinght of the Bath, conveyed water to the several conduits in Fleet Street, Al- dermanbury, and Cripplegate; he caused conduits to be erected at the two former places. 1439. Sir Stephen Brown, grocer, during a time of fa mine, when the people were compelled to eat bread made of fern, caused corn to be brought from Prussia to London, in such great quantities, that wheat was reduced to less than half its price. 1440. Robert Large, mercer, gave to St. Olave's Church, Southwark, 200/. to St. Margaret, Lothbury, 25/. to the poor 20/. to London Bridge, one hundred marks ; towards vaulting the water-course at Walbrook, two hundred marks ; to poor maids marriages, one hundred marks ; to poor house holders, 100/. &c. 1446.- Sir Simon Eyre, draper, built Leadenball, and left five thousand marks to be bestowed in charitable actions. 1455. Sir Stephen Foster^ fishmonger, enlarged Ludgate for the ease of the prisoners. 1458. Sir Godfrey Bullen, the immediate maternal an cestor of queen Elizabeth, was a great benefactor to the va rious hospitals, lazar houses and prisons ; and bequeathed 1000/. to poor householders in London, and 200/. to poor householders on his estates in Norfolk, 1473. Sir William Hampton, fishmonger, caused stocks to be set up in every ward for the punishment of disorderly persohs. 1477. Sir Ralph Joceline, draper, knight of the bath, corrected the bakers and victuallers; and repaired the city walls. •' . * Stotti. 1433^ LONDON.* 23 '¦ 1483. Sir Edmlund' Shaw, goldsmith, erected the condbit at Cripplegate. ' ' 1485.- Sir Thomas Hill,' grocer, built the conduit in Gracechurch Street. ¦ ' ¦' 1487. Sir Henry Colet's unbounded loyalty to Henry yiT: instated in this work, vol. i.p; 108." 1488. Sir William Hotte, saltfer, gavte five hundred marks towards' repairing the highways between London and Cambriage; and was a contributor to the preachers at 'Paul's Grossi " '-•' ¦¦ ' ' '¦. ' ¦ ¦ -' ¦' •"' '- ' '¦ '"" '- 1 492. Sir Hugh Clopton, mercer, built great part'of the bridge of Stratford-upon-Avon, where he was born, and Was otherwise vTsry charitable. 1498. Sir John PerciVal, mer<:hant-tay|Dr, fou'nded a grammar school at'Macclesfield. • ' ' 1 502. Sir! jehrf Shaw, goldsmith'; kept court in his own house, for redressing the grievances ^of his felld\v citizens. ' '. 1504. Sir William Capell, draper, first set up cages far the punishment of rogues and vagabonds. '1506. Sir Thomas Kneeswbrth, fishmonger," built the conduit of Bishop^gatc. > 1509, Sir Stephen Jennings, merchant-taylor; foufided a free school at Wolverhampton, in Staffordshire j still^main- tained by that company. He also built great part of the church of Saint Andrew Undershaft. ' .; . fSll. Sir Henry Keble, grocer, "was a great benefactor to building St. Mary Aldermary Church, and at his- death gave 1,000/. towards finishing it. He likewise gave' 200/; to repair highways, one hundred marks to portiott pooir maids,- one hundred and forty ploughshares, and one hundred and forty coulters of iron to poor husband-men, in Oxfdrd-' shire and Warwickshire ; and in London, sixpence jJc/* week to seven poor alms-men, for ever. 1512. Sir Roger Acheley, draiper, provided corn to be housed in Leadenhal), for the service of the city, in case of isearcity, 1518., Sir Thomas Exmewe, goldsmith, erected tbe con^ ^uit at Moorgate, • ' ' D 2- 1521, 24j LPNDO^. :. 1521. Sir John Milborne, dra,per, built the almshouses ii^ Crutched Friars, near Savage Gardens, Tower Hill. ; , : 1536. 9ir John Allen, mercer, gave, besides a ridi col lar to his successors, five hundred marks, as a sto^k for sea- coal; and the rent of his lands purchased of the kingo to, be distributed among the poor in the several wards of London, for ever. He vijas alsq a lib?;;^al benefactor to the prisons, ^c. and tp all the poor within two miles of thq city. . ,, 1538. Sir Richard preshain,, mercer. iSV^ his letter to Henry the Eighth, concerning the city hospitals, vol. i. p.- ,122....;- _. ;•¦ ¦ - _¦, .;; , ._ I 154)7. Sir..^ohri Gresham„ mercer, founded a free schopj at Holt, in Norfolk, and gave 10/. to every ward in Loodopj ^o be , distribjjgs^- '^'^'^I'S ^^ PP^^"- To ope hyndred^nd twenty poor men and women, he gave to each, three yajr^ pf broad, cloa^li,,, ^ riine shillings per yard, to be made ipto go)yfj§, ready tQ, their .baplfs,. He. also gave 200/. to hos- l^-fajgin Lpndpp, and as portions to poor maidens, 1550. Sir Rowland: Hill, mercer. . The character of this gjj^a^ ;man is best described, on ^n olaelisk or- observatory, lately erected by Sir Richard Hill, bart. in H^wJ^estQne Park, ^hj'op^hire. , ¦ ,. , , . . , ., ,',1,,The first, stone of this pilla^ was ifti^ by Sip Riphar.d HJJI, bart. .member in several parljaments for thi^ county j' on the first day of Octobier, in the year 1795 ; vyho c^usgd it. to be erected, not oply for the various uses of an obseiiva- tory, and to feast the eye, by presenting to i.t, at one v.iewj a most luxuriant and exteijsive prospect, . which takes in not ]|(?ss,than twelve (or, spnie assert, fifteen) counties ; but from piotives of justice, respect, and gratitude, to the memory Qf.a truly great and good man, viz. Sir Rowland Hill, knt. ivho, was born at the family mansion of Haw.k&tone, in the reign of king Henry the Seventh ; and, being bred to. trade,' and free of the city of London, became one of the- most considerable and opulent merchants of his time, and was lord mayor of the same, in the second and third years of Edward the Sixth, anna 154a ahd, 15^a,; and was. the first Protestant who filled that high office. ' , • *' Having LONDON; ^ ffHaving embrjiced rtbe principles of the Reformation, |ie ,zei}o.ualy exerted himself in behalf of the Protestant .cause ; he exchanged this life for a better, a, short while be- ^e the death of that pious young moharch, b.eing g.ged pearly seventy years. ' *« For a considerable time previous to his decease, he gave pp his mercantile occupations, that he might \yith more de? yotedness pf heart, attend to the great concerns of another |yorld. •!," His lands, pogsessionP,- and eJ^tiJrch patronage, were im- piensej particularly in the counties of SiJop and Chester; the'nuJaobeF of his tenants (none of whon^ he ever raised oy fined) amounting to one thousand one hundred and eighty- OB^, as appears from ti rental yet presep-ecj, and. copied from h's own hand writing. , ¦ - • [ ff But his private virtues, good deeds, and munifi.ceijt spirit, were quiteunliroited,:and extended, Uke the prospect before us, .East, West, North, and Souch, far surpassing p.11 bounds. .-'.Being sensible,' saith Fullpr, speaking of him in his Worthies qf England, :i- that his great cst9,te was given him of God,' it was his .desii;e to devote it to. his gloryl He buiit a spacious, church in his own ¦ parish at Hodnet, and likewise the neighbouring chjurch of Stoke, at his own ex- pence. He built Tern and Atchanj bridges, in this county^ both of hewn stone, and containing several arches, each. He ^Iso built other large bridges of timber. He built and en dowed seyerq.1 free-schools, p9a:ticularly that of Drayton, He made and paved divers highways for the public utility. He founded exhibitions, and edacEited many students at boih , pnivensitiesj, and supported; at the inns of court, others ¦\yho.were brought up to the law. •' He was: the nnwearied friendof the widow and the fa therless. He cloathed annually three hundred poor peopte in his .own i^eighbourhood., both with shirts and coats; and, in the city of London, he gav.e ^OOZ. (an immense sum in those days) to St. Bartholonjew's Hospital, besidea (saith Fuller) 600/. to Christ Church Hospital. He alsp gavemost f* LONDON. most liberally to all the other hosjiitals ; and at his death bequeathed 150/. tothe poor of all the wards in London. - " He had no children ; but his relations and kinsfolk were numerous, who all partook largely; of his bounty, both in his life-time and at his death. ' He coj-istantly kept up a great family household, where he maintained good hospita lity ; many resorted to him for his wise and salutary advice ; and none who came to him were ever sent empty or dissa tisfied away. " To suffer sutfh a character to sink into oblivion wonld be in the highest degree ungrateful, as well as injurious to posterity ; for' whose imitation, as a city set on a hill, it is held up ; duly to set it forth would be impossible." .. 1551. Sir Andrew Jud, skinner, founded a free-schodl at Tunbridge, and an alms-house near Great St. Helen's; Lon, don. He was joined as a collateral security' for the repay ment of several considerable sums of money borrowed by Jldward VI. of the Antwerp bankers. See vol. i. p. 129. 1554. Sir Thomas White, merchant- taylor, founder of St. John's College Oxford, erected grammar schools at Bris, tol, Reading, Higham Ferrers, &c. He gave lands to the amount of 2,000/. to the city of Bristol ; 104/. to be lent atinually to young' clothiers, ofthe following places, in rota, tion: York, Canterbury,Reading, the Merchant-Taylors com- piany, Gloucester, Worcester, Exeter, Salisbiu-y, West Ghes^ tex, Norwich, Southampton, Lincoln, Winchester, Oxford, Hertford, Cambridge, Shrewsbury, Lynn, Bath, Derby, Ips, wich, Colchester, find Newcastle, which sum is still annually transmitted by the company to the above places. He also .gave Iy400/. to the city of Coventry, at that time very muck distressed ; and afterwards enlarged his gift to 2,000/. be- sides free .loans to young men here, as wdl as in North, ampton, Leicester, Nottingham, Warwick, &c. 15&2. Sir Wilham Harper, merchant-taylor, founded a free-school in Bedford, where he was born and buried. 1569. Sir Thomas Rowe, merchant-taylor, besides in- dobing a piece of ground in Moorfields, as a, burial-place ^ for. LONDON. 2«7 for such churches as wanted church-yards; be was the founder of the Spital Sermons. He gave 100/. to be lent to eight poor men ; to the Merchant-Taylors company lands and tenements to the amount of 40/. yearly, to maintain tea poor pien, for ever, such as were not members of that com pany ; but chosen out of the companies of Clothworkers, Armourers, Carpienters, Tylers, and Plasterers ; in the con sideration that, by over-toiling labour, dangers, falls, bruises, and other inconveniences, they were soonest like to become impotent, and unable lo help or maintain themselves. 1576. Sir Ambrose Nicholas, Salter, founded twelve alms houses in Monkwdl Street. 1586. Sir Wolston Dixie, skinner, founded a free-school at Bosworth ; he gave 42/. to Christ's Hospital yearly, for ever; to Emanuel College 600/. to purchase lands for the maintenance of two fellows and two scholars ; and towards btiilding the college 50/. ; and among other great charities, 500/. to be lent to poor merchants. 1610. Sir William Craven, merchant-taylor, gave by will, to the poor prisoners in Newgate, Ludga,te, and the two Compters, 10/. each; to Christ's Hofpital 100/,; to St. Bartholomew's Hospital 100/. ; to Bridewell 100/, and to St. Thoqas's Hospital 100/.; one hundred pounds to be distri buted to divers parishes in London ; and ten pounds each to six parishes in Southwark; 100/. to the parish of St. John the Evangelist ; one hundred nobles to the poor of St. Antholin ; and besides other charities, several thousand pounds among his domestics. 1611, Sir John Pemberton, goldsmith, founder of a free- school at Heskin, in Lancashire, gave to Christ's Hospital 500/. ; to the Goldsmith's qoinpany 200/. and other consi derable donations* 1629. Sir James Cambell, ironmonger. This worthy magistrate left 48,967/. 6s. 8c?.— pf whiph he gave 1,000/. to repair St. Paul's cathedral; 1,300/. to the ironmongers company, to be lent to young tradesnien at 100/. each ; tP enlarge St. Thomas's Hospital 1,500/ ; to Bridewell jind St. Bartholomew's 200/, ; to Christ's Hospital 500/. ; tp Bethlem IQ©/, i to jgvidevyell, for a stock to set on work pppy vagrants es tONDbfl. vagrants that ar* ^diveted but Of gaol, fo preverit their future pilfering, 2,000/. ; for the rdief of prib^ohers for sm^Jl ^ebts 1 ,000/, ; for redemption of pobr captives frbrii Tuty§h Slavery 1,000/.; for erecting a sfchdol af fiatkmg^ Essex, €66/.; for erectirig a bridge near 1V,aristead 2.50/. ; fof. a Supply of coals, which his father had begun, 500/. ; to hiS executors to dispose of in silch charitable uses as they should think fit to be accomplished in two yeaffs, 10,000/. 1652. John Kendrick, draper, was a most extensive be^ nefactor to his country. He gave to the towli of Reading 7,500/. in trust; for employing the poor ; 4,000/.- for the same end to the town of Newbiiry ; to the company of Di'apers, towards repairing St. Paul's cathedral, 1,006/.; Christ's Hospital 500/. &c, 1646. .Sir Thomas Adams, mercer, an incorruptible loyi alist, and a great sufferer in the royal cause, founder of a free-school in Shropshire, an Arabic lecture in CambridgCj and a great benefactor of the Clothworkers company. He was born at Wem, in Shropshire, in 1586', edacaled ifl the . university of Cambridge, and bred a draper in LbndbiV. In the year 1639, he was chosen sheriff of that city; and was of so public a spirit, that when his son-in-law brougM bim-the first news of the election, be immediately dismissed his particular business, -and never afterwards personally fol lowed his trade, but gave himself up to the city concerns. He made himself such a master of the customs and usages, the rights and privileges of the city; and, at the same time, was found to be a man of such wisdom' and integrity in the exertion of his knowledge; that there was no honour in the city whereof he Was capable, to which he was not preferred; He was chosen master of the Drapers company, alderman of a ward, and president of St. Thomas's Hospital, which would probaibly haVebeen ruined, had it not been for his sa gacity and industry in discovering the frauds of an unjust steward. He was often returned a burgess in parliament, though tire iniquity of the times would not permit him to sit there: and in the year 1645, he wais elected lord mayor of London ; in whrch office he was so far from seeking his own benefit, that hewould not accept of those advaintagfts which are LONDON. 29 ftfe usually made by selling the vacant places. On account of his incorruptiMe lovalty to ' king Charles I. his bouse, while he was lord mayor, was searched by the party then getting into power, in expectation- of finding the king there. This party finding that Mr. Adams was a man who would not be moulded into their forms, or niake shipwreck of his conscience, to serve their interest ; he was, the year after, committed and detained a prisoner in the Tower for some time: and for several years excluded from all public offices and employments. His constancy to the royal cause brought upon him, besides theseTtroubles, the scoffs and detractibns of his adversaries, Avhich others have cleared him of; and many writers, in verse as well as prose, have aplplauded his administration, whe» in office. At length he becanie, and so continued for some years, the first among the twenty-six, the eldest alderman upon the bench, that had served in the office of lord mayor, to whom is given that honourable title of Father of the Citv. Such was his generous loy* alty and affection to Charles II. that, in the perilous times of his exile, he had remitted to him 10,000/. When there fore, at his majesty's joyful returii to these realms, Mr. Adams was deputed by the city to go, though in tBe se venty-fourth 3'ear of his age, as their commissioner, to Breda, in Holland, with general Monk, to congratulate the king, and attenid him home ; he was in consideration of his signal services knighted at the Hague by the king, and a few da3s after the Restoration advanced to the dignity of a ba ronet of England. His merit is still more extensive" in the character of a be nefactor to the public. At Wem, he gave the house of his nativity for a free- school, and liberally- endowed it. He likewise founded an Arabic professorship at Cambridge, on condition that it were frequented by a competent number pf auditors ;, and it thrived so well, that the salary of forty poiinds-^er annum, wns settled upon Mr. Abraham Whee lock, fellow of Clare Hall, a man of great learning and in dustry, whose longer life would probably have much im proved the Polyglot Bible. These munificent endowments, VflL. II. No. 29. E both 30 LONDON. both of which were perpetual, took place, the, .first of them twenty years, apd the second, above tliirt)- years, before Sir Thomas Adams's death. At the desire of Mr. Whedock, he was at the expence of printing the Persian Gospels, and of transmitting them into the eastern parts of the worid. .Thus he endeavoured to promote the Christian religion, by throwing, as he himself used to express it, " a, stone at the forehead of Mahomet." , ' > , 1 669. Sir William Turner, Inerchant-taylor, founder of an, hospital, free-school,. &c. at Kirk Leedham, in York-. shire. 1675. , Sir Robert Viner, bart. goldsmith and Tjanker, wa?^ a very lpya(and no less useful subject to Charies II, When he entered up,on his mayoraltv, the king did him the honour. of drinking several bottles vvith him, " an indulgence," as Granger observes,. " not unfrequent in tliis reign*." He afterwards erected an equestrian statue to the king at Slocks Market- It was. done originally for John Sobieslci, king of Poland. 1 680.. Sir Robert Clayton, draper. " This excellent ci tizen wdl understood and sedulously promoted the commer cial, civil, and religious interests of his country. As he had rendered himself obnoxious to the Duke of York, by voting in parliament for the Exdu.sion Bill, he retired from business, and amused himself with building and planting, after that prince ascended the throne. When the Prince of Orange was at Henley upon Thames, he was sent in the name of the city, to compliment the Prince on his arrival^ he vvas afterwards appointed commissioner of the customs. His benefactions to Christ's and St. Thomas's Hospitals will be remembered to his honour f. * An anecdote is related in the Spectator, No. 452, of one of these entertainments,. His majesty had been drinking pretty deep with Sir' Robert, when he wished to depart. TheJord mayor, however, in the fulness of his heart, fpUowed the king, and taking him by the coat, in sisted, "that his majesty should dnnk— one iott/e more." Charles com,.: pUed with his guest's mandatory request, good naturedly observing, tliat "' He that's drunk is as great as a king .'" f Granger. - , • • 1681. LONDON; 31 1681. Sir John Moor, gr6cer, ' erected the writing 'schoor in Christ's Hospital, and a free-school at Appleby.in Leices tershire. :,;¦¦. -I 1684. Sir Henry Tulse, grocer. " Let it remain upon record, for the lastihg honour of this mayor, that when oiie had offered hirrt ohe thousand guineas to procure him a lease of the city's duties oi' scavage, pprtage, &c. at '400/. rent yearly to the city, Sir flenry generously refused it ; and more ovei', used' his endeavour to advance th.e rent of the said duties for the -benefit of the dty : by which means it came to pass, that 1,200/. yearly rent was paid forthe same, by the same person**." ' -' ' ' Having broitght bur list of '¦' Worthy Mayors" to the era of the fflorious Revolution, a continuation of the names of such gentlemen as have been honoured with the highest de gree of civic magistracy is subjoined: ' . 1G89 Sir John Chapman, knt.' 1713 Sir Richard Hoare, knt. 1690-Sir Thomas Pilkington, knt-. 17 U Sir Samuel Stanier, knt. 1691 Sir Thomas Pilking'tort, knt. 1(592 Sir Thomas Stampe, knt. 1693 Sir John Fleet, knt. 1694 Sir William Ashiirst; knt. ¦ 1695 Sir Thomas Lane, knt. 1696 Sir John Houblon, kilt. 1697 Sir Edward Clarke,.'knti, 1698 Sir Humphry Edwin, knt. 1699 Sir'Ftancis Child, knt, 170'0 Sir Richard- Levett, knf, 1701 Sir Thomas Abney, knt. 1702 Sir William Gore, knt. 1703 Sir Skmuel Dashwood, knt. 1704 1 Sir John Parsons, Jknt. 1705 Sir Owen Buckingham, knt: 1706 Sir .Thomas RawUnson, knt. 1707 Sir,Rol->ert Beddingfeld, knt. 1708 Sir William Withers, knt. 1709 Sir Charles Duncombe, knt. 1710 Sir-Samuel Garrard, bart. -171,1 Sir Gilbert Heathcote, knt.^ 1712 Sir Robert Beachcroft, knt. 1715 Sir W. Humpreys, knt. and bart, 1716 Sir Charles Peers, knt. . ]7^7^ Sir James Batem'an, knt. 17 IS Sir William Lewen, knt.' -^ l 1719 Sir John Ward, knt. 1720 Sir Geo, Thorold, knt. and bart. 1721 Sir John Fryer, bart. 1722 Sir William Stewart, knt. 1723 Sir Gerard Conyers, knt. 1724 Sir Peter Delme, knt. ' 1725 .Sir George Merlins, knt. 172S Sir Francis Forbes, knt. 1727 Sir John Eyles, bart. 1728 'Sir Edward Beecher, knt. 1729 Sir Rob?rtBailis, knt. 1730 Sir Richard Brocas, knt. 1731 Humphry Parsons, esq. 1732 Sir Francis Child, knt. 1733 John Barber, esq. 1734 Sir William BjUers, knt, [-, Slry/te's Stoiu. E 2 173j 33 LONDON. • Sir Robert Godschall, knt. \ George Heathcote, esq. 1750- 1752J 1763 Hon Thomas Harley 1769 Samuel Turner, esq. r William Beckford, esq. *'^'^°i Barlow Trecothick, esq. 1771 Brass Crosby, esq. 1772 William Nash, esq. 1773 James Townsend, esq. 1774 Frederick Bull, esq. 1775 John Wilkes, esq. 1776 John Sawbridge* esq. 1777 Sir Thomas Hallifax, kntr 1778 Sir James Esdaile, knt. 1779 Samuel Plumbe, esq. 1780 Brackley Kennett, esq. 1781 Sir Watkin Lewes, knt. 1782 Sir William Plomer, knt, 1783 Nathaniel Newnham, esq, 1784 Robert Peckham, esq. 1785 Richard Clark, esq. 1786 Thomas Wright, esq. 1787 Thonias Sainsbury, esq. 1788 John Burnell, esq. 1789 Wilham Gill, esq. 1790 William Pickett, esq. 1791 John Boydell, esq. 1792 Sir John Hopkins, knt. 1793 Sir James Sanderson, knt. 1794 Paul Le Mesurier, esq. 1795 Thomas Skinner, esq. 1796 William Curtis, esq. 1797 Brook Watson, esq. 1798 John Wilham Anderson, esq. 1799 Sir Richard Car Glyn-, knt. 1800 Harvey Christian Combe, esq. 180! Sir William Staines, knt. 1802 Sir John Earner, knt. 1803 Charles Price, esq. .,' 1804 John Perring, esq. 1805 Peter Perchard, esq. 1806 James Shaw, esq. 1733 ' Sir Edward Bellamy, knt . 1736 Sir John WiUiams, knt. 1737 Sir John Thomson, knt. 1738 Sir John Barnard, km. 1739 Micajah Perry, esq. 1740 Sir John Salter, knt. c Humphry Parsons, esq. * tDaniel Lambert, esq, 1742 1 1743 Robert Wilimot, esq. J 744 Sir Robert Westley, knt. 1745 Sir Henry Marshall, knt. 1746 Sir Richard Hoare, knt. 1747 WilUam Benn, esq. 1748 Sir Robert Ladbroke, knt. 1749 Sir William Calvert, knt. • Sir Samuel Pennant, int. [ John Blachford, esq. 1751 Francis Gokayne, esq. • Thomas JVinterbottom, esq. L Robert Alsop, esq. 1753 Sir Crisp Gascoyne, knt. C Edward Ironside, esq. L Thomas Rawlinson, esq. J 755, Stephen Theodora Janssen, esq. 1756 Slitigsby Bethell, esq. 1757 Marshe Dickinson, esq. J 758 Sir Charles Asgill, knt. 1759 Sir Richard Glyn, knt. and bart. 1760 §ir Thomas Chitty, knt. 1761 Sir Matthew Blackiston^ knt. 1762 Sir Samuel FKidyer, knt. and bart. 1763 WiUiam Beckford, esq. 1764 William Bridgen, esq. 176p Sir William Stephenson, km. 1766 George Ndson, esq. l767 Sir Robert Kite, knt. The sheriffs having mostly arrived at the dignity of alder.- derthan or mayor, a list of them here is unnecessary. * Those in Ifolic, died in iheir^mayoralty. This LONDON. 53 ALDERMEN. This office is of very remote date. The Saxon appel lation of ealderman, alderman, or oldman, is of the same signification as the Latin appellative sinex, whence is de~ rived senators. The epithet of ealderman, among, the an tient Saxons, appears to have been a title of the greatest honour, and the title of alderman was the same as that of earl ; the city of London, therefore, must have been in very great repute, when the noble appellation of aldermen was conferred upon her magistrates, which probably gave rise to the honourable distinction of barons, whereby the a,ldermen and commonalty of London were long after denominated. Whether the city of London at first, was divided into wards by king Alfred, (after his re-building the same, as al ready mentioned) or by arbitrary lords, whose demesns in the city were held in vassalage by the citizens, or by others, is unknown. However, the second seems the more pro bable, seeing that, during the Saxon government, most of the cities and towns in this kingdom were held in demesne or vassalage; which is strongly corroborated by the wards of this city being antiently hereditary, and alienable at the will of the aldermen. And it is observable, that the wards of aldermanries of this city were denominated from the aldermen, and an tiently changed their names as often as thdr mastei-s ; and that the division of the city into wards or aldermandries, ap pears to be of great antiquity ; for it is manifest that Lon don had both wards and aldermen in the reign of kino- Richard X which is above five hundred and fifty years ^go. Tlie first number of wards in this city was twenty-four; but inthe year 1394,' Farringdon ward being dj'^^ided by act of parliament, the outward division was erected into a separate ward, which made up the present number of twenty-five, for that called Bridge Ward Without, being only nominal, it is wdl adapted to the senior alderman, vyhq by hjs greg,t age is rendered incapable of qndergoing much 34 LONDON. much fatigue; but in case of non-acceptance, the court of aldermen choose another of their brethren to supply tbe va cancy. . . In Strvpe's edition of Stow's Survey, vol, ii. p. 238. is in serted the fallowing .antibrit customs, rules, and passages, concerning the aldermen of London, extracted from the re- cords of thecity chamber, ' "Neither mayor nbr akicrmen, nor thdr servants, to hold a brewhoiise, tavern, or bakehouse. "An alderman or conititon council man removed from their dignities, not to be re-elected. " An alderman lost liis liberty because be was absent from the city f6r the greater part of the year. " An aldernian lined not his cloak, which be ought to use 5n procession, therefore it was adjudged by the court, that the mayor and aldermen should all breakfast with him.'' This was probably a suitable punishment for his covetous ness. " One was judged and imprisoned for false words spoken of an alderman. " One Gydiley was imprisoned, because he refused the office. " An alderman was rejected for incapacity. *' One was imprisoned at the command of an alderman. " Heretofore the mayor and aldermen came to Guildhall but once a week. " The custoses of the city had one roll of pleas in the mayor's court, and the alderman another. " An alderman was once elected and .sworn recorder. ' " One was imprisoned, and his right hand cut off, be cause be made an assault upon an alderman ; tmother im prisoned for rebeUion made to an alderman ; and another for opprbbrious words spoken to an alderman. Rebellion to an alderrnan was made imprisonment for a year and a day, be sides Ibss of freedom to the offender. • " Formerly four persons were presented and one of them chosen ; this was confirmed by common council ; and the nomination of aldermen elected by the ward.swas rejected; though LONDON. 4 35 though the wards had been bound to answer for tlie conduct of the person elected. " None ito be aldermen, unless bofn within the kiugddm of England, and his father an Englishman. : " The aldermen were formerly required to gallier the debts due to the king in their respective wards." In the nth of Richard II. anno 1394, it was by parlia-- ment bnacted, that the aldermen ofthe city of London should not froln thenceforth be elected annually, but continue in their several offices during life, or good behaviour. The aldermen of London having antiently become so by purchase, occasioned great jealousies among the common alty ; for the allaying of which, and pneventing the like for the future, it was, in the year 1402, by the common coun cil enacted, that they shoiilJ be elective; the manner of which election has several times varied : but. in the year 1714, by the commoh council of the city, it was enacted, that from thenceforth, in all elections of aldermen, there shall be chosen only one citizen by the inhabitants of every ward destitute of an alderman, andthe person so elected to be returned by the lord mayor (or other returning officer, duly qualified to hold a court of wardmote) to the court of lord mayor and aldermen, by whom the person so returned is to be admitted, and sworn into the office of an alderman. ' The different factions in the city continuing vigorously to oppose each other in thechoice of their representatives to serve in parliament, lord mayor, aldermen, sheriffs, common coun- cilmen, chamberlain, town clerks, &c. application was made to parliament to prevent such disputes for the future, by re ducing the number of electors, which was thought would in a great measure prevent violent contests on all such oc casions. Thealdermon are the second constituent part of the city legislature, and all of them, who have passed the chair, and, three under it, are by charter perpetual justices of the peace within the eity, and by the same power, they are: by virtue of their office exempt from serving on inquests, juries, i&c. ; sr^ERIfFj^, 35 LONDON. SHERIFFS. These magistrates Were antiently chosen from the com monalty, commoners^ and oftentimes never came to be al dermen ; many aldermen also were never sheriffs, and yet were advanced to the mayoralty ; a greater regularity, how ever, has since taken place ; for at present, by the con stitution of the city though any citizen is digible to be sheriff, except he swear himsdf not worth 15,000/. yet such sheriff cannot be lord mayor till he be elected an alderman. The elder sheriff was formerly nominated by the lord mayor, who drank to him by name, as the sheriff for the ensuing year ; and this nomination was, b}^ custom, con^ firmed by the commonalty. The commons, however, con tended against the custom, and so far succeeded, that both sheriffs were electv-;d for some time liy the whole body of the livery. In the year 110 1-, however, Sir John Parsons, lord mayor, agreeably to a latp act of common council, revived the antient custom of nomination. The method is ndw that the lord "mayor drinks to fourteen respectable citizens, two of whom oh Midsummer Day, are elected by the livery, and being so elected, are compelled to serve on pain of a fine of 400/. The lord mayor cannot properly elect a com moner sheriff, if there is an alderman who has not served the office, though this is often done ; but the refusal of an aldermain to serve, subjects him to a penalty of six hundred marks, and to be again digible, one hundred pounds of which is to be given to the person who first takes upon him self the office, and should there be a second forfeiture, one hundred pounds to him who fills up the vacancy ; 'the rest to be deposited iu the city chamber. l"he court o^ alder men have no power; without the consent of the common • colincil, to dispense with fine above one year. If, however, the 400/. is paid by the citizen drank to, he is exempted^ from serving for three years, nor can he be again drank tff by any future lord mayor. The bond given to serve is 1000/. . The sheriffs, were .originally called bailiffs ; they were jtij(lges of themsejives only in their courts of personal pleas, and LONDON. 37 and in the hustings, they were not judges alone, but exe cutors, also, of the judgment and precepts of mayor, &c. They are now esteemed as the .supporters of the mayor in his office, and have been accustomed to be obedient to his pre cepts, in bringing before him such complaints as come with in their jurisdiction ; and they were, also, to perform all his other legal commands. It belongs to their office, to serve the king's writs of pro cess ; and for the better execution of this office, after re sistance, they may raise the Posse Comitatus*. They are to return juries of honest repute, and of good ability to consider of and deliver their verdicts, according to justice and the merit of the cause ; they are to preserve the public peace ; to see condemned persons executed ; to collect the public monies, fines, &c. belonging to the king, which they are to be accountable for, till paid by them into the Exche quer. Where the king is party, the sheriffs may break open doors, if entrance is denied ; but not upon private process, except upon outlawry after judgment. They may also untile the house to obtain entrance. But in all cases where the door is open, the sheriffs may enter, and make execution of their writ. For the better performance of so great trust, the sheriffs appoint eminent legal characters as their under-sheriffs, who enter into ample security for the performance of their duty. They baye also their separate prisons for the city and li berties, with tbe proper officers for arrests, attachments, ex ecutions, &c. The trials on such attachments, arrests, and other processes, are decided in the proper courts, by judges, counsel, and juries, ^ "^ Posse comitatus implies the [lowcr of the county, and includes the aid and attendance of all knights, and other men above the age of teeen, within that district. Persons able to travel, are also required to assist in this service. Sheriffs are to give aid to the justices in sUjjpress- ing riots, &c. and to raise the Jiosse comitatus, \a ho may take such wea pons as sliall be ifecessary ; and they are justified in beating, and-even filling such rioters as resist or refuse to surrender; persons refusing to .comply with the sheriff's summons, are liable to fine and imprisonment. Vol. II. No, 29. F Th^ 3S LONDON. The sheriffs of London jointly hbld the sherifalty of th^ county of Middlesex, though the office is denominated in the Singular ; ^:his is in consequence of the grant by Henry I- to the citizens of the sheriffwick of Middlesex: their juris dictions are, however, sepaiv.te; and the inhabitants of the dty and county are very tenacious of the privileges attached to their various liberties. The RECORDER of the city of London, is a grave and ledrhed lawyer, skilful in the customs of the city : is a chief assistant to the lord mayors, for their better direction in matters of jdstice and law. He takes place in councils and in courts^ before any man that hath not been mayor, and delivers the Sentences of the whole court. The qualifications of the recorder of the city are thus set down in one of the books of the chamber : that " he shall be, and is wont to be, one of the ttiost skilful and virtuous apprentices of the law of the whole kingdom : whose office is always to sit on the right hand of tbe mayor, in record ing pleas, and passing judgments ; and by whom records and processes, had before the lord mayor and aldermen at Great St. Martin's, ought to be recorded byword of mouth before the judges assigned there to correct errors. The thaydr and aldermen have therefore used commonly to set forth all other businesses, touching the city, before the king and his council, as also in certain of the king's courts, by Mr. Recorder, as a chief man, endued with wisdom, and eminent for eloquence." The fee of the Recorder was formerly appropriate to time and merit, as appears in the fourth book of Liber A/bus. A.fterward, the recorder's fee was settled at one hundred marks, (it is now 1,500/, ; but he is not allowed to practise, except in the concerns of the city;) and he was to have of the chamber such vesture (lineatam vel penulatam) hned or faced, and as often as the mayor and aldermen takei every year. And his clerk, such as the Serjeants of the chamber. The Recorder usually sits at the mayor's table *. The * What the recorder's offide was long ago demanded to be, to v/ir, in fhe year 1304, may be worthy to be read out of a record, viz. ' Die Luna, tONDON. a^ The next officer in rotation is the chamberlain ; he is of great repute and trust ; and though annually chosen on Midsummer Day, yet not displaced, but continues during life, if no great crimes are made but against him. He has the keeping of the monies, lands, and goods, of the city orphans, or takes good security for the payments thereof when tbe party comes of age. And to that end he is deemed in the law a sole corporation, to him and his successors, fpr orphans ; and therefore a bond, or a recognizance made to him and his successors, is recoverable by his successors. This officer hath a fcourt peculiarly belonging to him ; hi# office may be deemed a pubhc treasury, collecting the cus toms, monies, and yearly revenues, and all other payments belonging to the corporation of the city. The COMMON SERJEANT attends the lord mayor and court of aldermen on court days, and must be in council with them, on all occasions, within and without the precincts or liberties of the city. He has the care of orphans estates, either by taking account of them, or by signing their indentures, before their passing the lord mayor and court of aldermen. 4ec. On Monday, after the feast of the Conversion of Saint Paul, in the thirty-second year of king Edward, before the lords John le Bland, mayor, John de Burresorch, sheriff, William de Beton, Walr ter de Fynchinfield, William de Lyre, Thomas Romeyn, Adam de Fol- ham, John of Canterbury, Simon de Paris, John de Dunstable, Richard de GoUcestre, Henry de Loucestre, Adam de Rokesle, &c. aldermen, mbeting together, John de Wengrave, alderman and recorder, was ^wgrn, well and faithfully to render all the judgments ofthe hustings, after the mayor and aldermen should m^et concerning their pleas, and jigr^ed together ; and also all other judgments touching the city of Lon don, &c. and that he shall do justice as well to poor as rich. And that all the pleas of the hustings, presently after the hustings is finished, he shalloversee, order and cause to be enrolled, according tothe things pleaded, &c. atid that he shall come prepared to dispatch the business of thecity, &c. when he shall be lav/fuUy wanted by the mayor and bailiffs. For which labpur, the above-said mayor and aldermen have yielded to give the aforesaid John, ten pounds sterling by the year, out . of their chamber, and twenty pence oJ each charter written, and each. testament enrolled ii» the said hustings, &c. F 3 And 40 LONDON. And likewise lets, sets, and manages the orphans' estates, ac- cording to his judgment to their best advantage. The TOWN CLERK keeps the original charters of the city, the books, rolls, and other records, wherein are registered the acts and proceedings of the city ; he is to attend the lord mayor and aldermen at thdr courts. The town clerk and common serjeant, take place accord ing to their seniority. The fees of the chamberlain, com mon Serjeant, and common clerk, or town clerk, were aiv. tiently ten pounds per uuiiimi. The CORONER so called irom corona, i.e. or crown, be cause he deals principally with the crown, or in matters ap pertaining to the imperial crown of England *. As the sheriff may inquire of all felonies, so the coroner is to inquire of all sudden deaths : and to that end he im panels a jurv, takes evidence upon oath, and gives the charge to the jury. The REMEMBRANCER is an officer to attend the lord mayor on certain days, his business being to put his lordship in mind of the select days he is to go abroad with the alder men, &c. he is to attend daily at the parliament hotise, dur ing the sessions, and to report to the lord mayor the trans actions there. , The SUBORDINATE OFFICERS, are two judges of the sheriff's court ; four common pleaders ; comptroller of the chamber ; secondary of Wood Street Compter ; secondary of the Poultry Compter ; a registrar of the orphans' fund ; a solicitor ; eight attornies iu the sheriffs court ; two bridge- masters ; and a hall-keeper. There are also officers peculiarly belonging to the lord mayor's house. Tlie first are, the four esquires of the lord mayor's house. * As to the antiquity of this office, there were coroners in the time of king Alfred, as appears by the book, entitled, the Mirror. The lord mayor fur the time being, is coroner, but hath his deputy for the ma nagement thereof. In aniicnt times, this office was of such great esteem, ,thal none poulJ execute it undtr tho degree of a knight. The LONDON. 41 The SWORD BEARER attends the lord mayor at his going abroad, and carries the sword before him as the emblem of justice. He hath his table at the lord mayor's expence ; for the support of which, there is one thousand pounds a year allowed, besides an allowance for his dwelling*. The COMMON HUNT is to take care of the pack of hounds belonging to the mayor and citizens, and to attend them in hunting when they please; this officer has a yearly salary, besides house rent and other perquisites : he attends the lord mayor on set days. The COMMON CRIER, and the serjeant at arms, sum mon all executors and administrators of freemen to appear, an(^ bring in inventories of the personal estates of freemen, within two months after their decease : and they are to have notice of the appraisements. The common crier attends the lord mayor on set days, and at the courts held weeklj? by the mayor and aldermen. He has his dwelling allowed him. The WATER bailiff superintends the preservation of the ''iver Thames, against all encroachments ; and looks after the fishermen, to prevent destroying the young fry by un lawful nets. For that end juries are appointed for each county, that hath any part lying on the sides or shores of that river. Which juries, summoned by the water bailiff' at cer tain times, make inquiry of all offences relating to the river and the fish ; and bring their presentments. He is also bound to attend the lord mayor on set days in the week ; and has his house rent allowed. * The sword-bearer's place is honourable ; in as much as the sword is" needful to be borne before head officers of boroughs, or other corporatioa towns, to represent the state and princely office of the king's most ex cellent majesty, the chief governor. To tne right of bearing which sword, in the chamber of London, this observation is to be made, ac cording to a,n antient writer of armoury: " that the bearer must carry it upright, the hilt being holden under his bulk, and the blade directly up the midst of his breast, and so forth between the sword bearer's brows. This.in distinction from bearing the sword in any town for a duke or an earl, or a baron. If a duke, the blade thereof must lean from the head, between the neck and the right shoulder. And for an earl, thebearer must carry the same between the point of the shoulder and the elbow ; and so there is another different bearing of the sword Itr a baron." There ?2 LONDON. There are also three serjeant carvers; three serjeants d the chamber : a seijcant of the channd ; four yeomen of the water side; an under water bailiff; two yeomen of the chamber; two meal weighers ; two yeomen of the wood- wharfs ; a foreign taker ; two city mar.shals. There are be tides these, seven gentlemen's men ; as. The sword bearer's man, the common hunt's two men, the common crier's man, and the carver's men. Nine of the foregoing olficers have liveries of the lord mayor, viz. the sword bearer and his man ; the three carvers ; and fhe four yeomen of the water side. All the rest have liveries from the chamber of London, The following officers are likewise belonging to the citj'; farmer ofthe markets; auditor; clerk of the chamber; clerk to the commissioners of the sewers ; of the court of conscience ; beadle of the same court ; clerk of the city works; printer to the city, justice of the Bridge Yard; clerk comptroller of tlie Bridge House ; steward of the Bo rough ; bailiff of the Borough. London has sent rcpi-esentative? to parliament from the commencement of its summons in the reign of Henry III, The dtizens elect four of their body, who on the first daj of every new parliament, take precedence of all the other members in the house of commons, and are clothed in their scarlet gowns and hoods, the distinguishing badge of the antient barons. The metropolis has also this peculiar privilege in the hoiise ; all bills, &c. usually brought in are moved by a member to have leave granted ; except applications from the corporation, which upon being presented at the'bar, are iin- Hiediately read by the clerk, without any previous notice, and as we have before mentioned, it is the remembrancer's business to attend parhament, to report its daily proceeding?, - and to inform the lord mayor,- &c. should he discover any thing prejiidicial to the interests of the city. , The jurfsdiction of civil judicature in London, is con.- fined within the dty and its liberties ; no citizen can be im pleaded out of his own boundaries, consequently the courts 5 LONDON. «s of King's Bench and Common Pleas are held in Guildhall, wheije the lord chief justice and the other judges ofthe realm hold their sittings in term. The highest court of Teoord for the city of London, is however held at Guildhall, and is denominated the court oJi" HUSTING. This court is of Saxon origin, and the most antient in the kingdom. It is a court of record, and the supreme ju dicature of the city of London, and held weekly at Guild hall ; it was originally established for the preservation of the laws, franchises, and custoins of the city, and therein pre sided as judges, the principal magistrates; as at present do the lord mayor and sheriffs, who are assisted by the 1-ecorder npon all causes of consequence ; in this court two sorts of causes are pleadable, viz, pleas of land, and common picas, distinctly ; for one week pleas merely real are held, and th6 next, mixed actions are decided ; here deeds are irirolled, recoveries passed, writs of right, waste, partition, dower and replevins determined. In the busting of a plea of lands are pleaded writs of right patent, directed to the sheriffs of London. The COURT of common council. This court, consist^tig of the lord mayor, aldermen, and representatives of the se veral wards ; and being the city legislature, make bye-laws for the good governnient thereof ; they assemble in Guild hall, as often as tbe lord mayor, by his summons, thinks proper to convene them ; they annually select from,among themselv'es a committee of six alderman arid twelve cbm- commoners, for letting the city lands. They^ilikewise ap point another committee of four' aldermen and eight com- riioners, for transacting the affairs belonging to the bene factions of Sir Thonjas Gresham ; the lord mayor, who is always one of tbe nurtiber; they also, by virtue of a royal grant, yearly appoint a governcr, deputy, and as sistants, for managing the city lands in Ireland ; they have also a right of dispbsibg of vatious offices belonging to the «itj. The 44 LONDON. The court of lord mayor and aldermen is a court of record, wherdn is lodged a great part of the executive power, whereby all leases, and other instruments that pass tbe city seal, are executed ; the assise of bread ascertained; c;ontests relating to water-courses, lights, and party-walls, adjusted ; and the city officers suspended and punished ac cording to the notoriety of their several offences. This court has not only a power of electing annually eleven overseers, or rulers of the fraternity of watermen ; but likewise a right of fixing their several taxes, with the approbation ofthe privy council ; and also a right of dispos ing of most ofthe places belonging to the city officers. The lord mayor's court is also a court of record, held before the lord mayor, aldermen, and recorder, wherein actions of debt, trespass, attachments, covenants, &c. arising within the city and liberties, of any value, may be tried, and actions from the sheriffs court removed hither, before tha jury be sworn. This is a court of chancery or equity, respecting affairs transacted in the city and liberties ; and gives relief when judgment is obtained in the sheriffs court, for more than tbe just debt. It has an office peculiar to itself, consisting of four attornies, by whom all actions cognizable therein are entered, for the execution whereof there are six serjeants at mace, who daily attend in the said office. This court, in divers respects, is the best to commence a process in, seeing an action (exclusive of stamps) maybe entered at the small charge of four pence, and which, though not proceeded upon, never dies, as those in other courts. Besides, a suit may be begun and ended here, within the space of fourteen days, for so small a change as thirty shill- ings. In short, this is the most extensive court of the king-, dom ; for all that is cognizable in the several courts of Eng land, is also determinable here. The juries for trying cagses in this, and the sheriffs eourts, are by the several courts of wardmote annually returned at Christmas, when each ward, according to custom; appoint 9. sufficient LONDON. sufficient number of persons to serve on the said juries for every month in tbe year, as follows: ¦ Slohths. 'Wards. January, Aldgate, Portsoken, and Cornbill. February, Cheap Ward. March, Bassishaw and Crippl^gaten April, Yirttry and Bread Street, May, Tower and Billingsgate. Jane, Farringdon Without. J uly. Bridge Ward. August, Aldersgate, Cpleman Street, and Broad Street. September, Farringdon Within, and Castle Baynard. October, Queenhithe, Dowgate, and Wallbrook. November, Langbourn, and Lime Street. December, Candlewick, Cordwainer, and Bishopsgate. The sheriffs courts are held in Guildhall, of which the sheriffs being judges, each has his assistant or deputy," called thie judges of those courts'; b.efore whom are tried actions of debt, trespass, covenant, &c. and where the testimony of any absent witness in writing is allowed to be good evidence. To each of these Courts belong four, attornies, who, upon their being admitted by the court of aldermen, have aii bath administered to them*. The * The oath, for its remarkable contents, is' here inserted. " Ye shall swear', that ye shall well and lawfully examine your clietit9» and their quarrels, without champafty, and without procuring of an^ j'uries, or any inqiiest embracing. And that ye shall change no quarrel out of ill-nature, after your understanding. Also ye shall plead, nor suffer to be pleaded by your assent, no foreign release, acquittance, pay ment, arbitration, plain account, whatsoever it be, to put the court out of its jurisdiction ; nor none other matter ; but it shall be such as ye may find rightful'and true by the'information of your client, whose informa tion and saying; upon your oath and conscience, ye shall think to be true. " And jre sjiall not iu forpn, npr inforcej' any man to sue falsely against afiy peirsoh, by' false or forced action. Ready ye shall be at alltiiiies to come andaitendat thewariiiHg ofthe said mayor, and ofthe sheriffs of thfe'said city, unless you be letted about the business ofthe saiti city, or Vol. II. No. 29. G f«f 45 LONDON. The sheriffs of London may arrest and serve executions on the river Thames. Common hall. In this court the livery chuse their lord mayor, sheriffs, members of parliament, &c. The coUrt of orphans is occasionally held by the lord mayor and aldermen, who are guardians to children under the age of twenty-one years, at the decease of their fathers, l^hey take upon them not only the care ahd management of their goods and chattels, but likewise that of their per sons, by committing them to careful,and faithful tutors, to prevent their disposing of themselves, during minority, with out the approbation of this'court. The common serjeant is authorized by tbe said court, to t.^ke exact accbunts and inventories of all deceased free men's estates ; and the youngest attorney of the mayor's gotirt, being clerk to that of the orphans, is appointed to take securities, for their several portions, in the name ofthe chamberlain of London, who is a sole corporation of himr self, for the service of the said orphans ; and to whom a recognizance, or bond, made upon the account of an or phan, shall, by the custom of London, descend to his suc cessor ; which is hardly known elsewhere. AVhen a freeman dies, and leaves property, to his children, either in money or estates, the executor or executors make application to the court of aldermen to admit such property into the orphan's fund. . On this application a wheel is brought into the court, containing a number of tickets, whidi men tion the respective sums belonging to those vvho have arrived at full age, or whose stock bas been sold or transferred to some other person. The lord maj-or then draws from the wheel as many tickets as contain the sum requested to be ad-' mitted by the newclaimant, when tbe proprietors of the old .stock have notice given them to receive their property in three months. Four per cent, is allowed for the money dur ing the time it continues in the fund. for some reasonable cause. The franchises, laws, and ordinances of this city, you shall keep, and due to be kept to your power: and that well and lawfully yc shall do all tlyngs that to the office of attorney pertaineth . to do : M God help you," The, LONDON. 47 The corrRT op justice hall, is held by the king's cotn, mission of oyer and terminer, at Justice Hall, in the Old Bailpy, . eight times a year, for trying of criminals for crimes committed within the city of London and county of Mid dlesex. The courts of coroner and escheator, are held be fore the lord mayor or his deputy. ' The court pr conservacy. The nature of these courts is explained under the head of lord mayor. The court of rewuests, or court of conscience, de.. termines all disputes between citizens where the debt is under five pounds. It is of grefit use to persons who have small debts owing them, which they could not otherwise recover without entering into expensive proceedings ; and it is also of great benefit to such persons as are not able to pay their debts at once, as the, court determines the payment to be ma^de in such portions as are suitable to' the debtor's circum-, stances. The lord mayor and court of aldermen appoint, monthly such aldermen and commoners to sit as commis sioners in this court as,. they think fit; any three of whom compose a court, kept in Guildhall, to hear and determine such cases, as are brought befor,e them. If the defendant. does not appear the first court day after the summons, an attachment may be awarded against him ; on neglect or re fusal then'to a,ppear, he will be committed to prison. , The court of wardmote is denominated firom the, words ward and mote ; that is,^ the Ward Court : for in this city, parishes are as towns, and wards as hundreds; wherefore this court resembles that of the leet in the county ; for, as the latter derives its authority from the county court, so does the formd- from that of the lord mayor ; as is manifest by the annual precept issued by the lord mayor to the se veral aldermen, for holding their respective leets for tbe elec tion of proper officers in each ward ; the tenor whereof is as follows : To tlie Alderman of the Ward of • " We charge and command you, that, upon St. Thomas's. Day, the apostle, next coming, you do hold your wardmote j ' G3 ,an»i 48 LONDON. ahd that you have afore us, at our general court of alder men, to be holden the Monday next after the feast of the Epiphany. next coming, aU the defaults that shall be pre sented afore you by inquest in the said wardmote ; and the said inquest shall have power and authority, by one whole year, to inquire into and present all such defaults as shall be found within your said ward, as oftentimes as shall be thought to you expedient and needful ; which we will shall be once every month at least. 2. " And, if it happen any of your said inquest do die, or depart out of your said ward, within the said year, that then, in place of him or them so dying, or departing out of your said ward, you cause to be chosen one able person in his stead, to inquire and present with the other, in manner and form abovesaid. 3. '' And tliat, at the said general court you give afore us the names and surnames of all of them of your said ward that come not to your said wardmote, if they be duly warn- e'd ; so that due redress and punishmenfof them may beliad, S» the case sliall require, accoj-ding to the law. 4. " And that you provide, tliat, at all times conve nient, a sufficient watch be kept ; and that lanterns, with light by riightertail, in old manner accustomed, be hangied forth ; and that no man go by nightertail without light, nor with vizard, on the peril that bdongeth thereto. S. " And also, that you do cause to be chosen men, of the most sufficient, honest, and discreet men, of your siiid ward, to be, for your said ward, of the common council of this city for the year ensuing, according to the custom in that behalf yearly used. And also, that you do cause the said men, so to be chosen to be ofthe common council, to be sworn before you, and in your presence, according to the oath by them used and of old time accustbm'ed. 6. ^' And that also, in the said wardmote, you cause tO be chosen certain other honest' persons, to be constables and scavengers, and a common-beadle, and a raker, to liiake clean the streets and lanes of all your said ward, according. ' to the custom yearly used in that behalf; which constables' have LONDON. have> and shall have, full pow.er and authority to distrain for the salary and quarterage of the said beadle and raker, as oftentimes as it shall be behind or unpaid. / 7. " Also, that you keep a roll ofthe names, snrTnames, dwelling-places, professions, and trades, of all persons dwell ing within your ward, and within what constable's precinct they dwell ; wherein the place is to be specially noted by street, lane, alley, or sign. 8. " Also that you cause every constable, from time to time, to certify unto you tiie name, surname, dwelling- place, profession and trade, of every person who shall newly come to dwell within his precinct, whereby you may mak« and keep your roll perfect ; and that you cause every con stable for bis precinct, to that purpose, to make and keep a^ perfect roll in like manner. 9. " Also, that you give special charge to every inn- holder, and other persons within your ward, who shall re ceive any person to sojourn in his house above two days, shall, before the third day after his coming thither, give knowledge to the constable of the precinct where he shall be? so received, of the name, surname, dwelling-place, profes^ sion and trade of life, or place of service, of such person, and for what cause be shall come to reside there ; and that , the said constable give present notice thereof to you ; and that the said inn-holder lodge no suspected person, or men, or women, of evil name. 10. " Also, that you cause every constable within his precinct, once every month at the farthest, and oftener, if lieed require, to make diligent search and inquiry what per- soi^s be newly come into his precinct to dwell, sojourn or. lodge ; and that you give special charge, that no inniholder pr persqii shall resist, or deny any constable in making such Search or inquiry ; but shall do his best endeavour to aid and a?§ist hinji therein, ' II. " And for that, of late, there is more resort to the city' of persons evil-affected in religion and otherwise, than in fprpier times hath been ; you shall diligently inquire if §ny man ¦be received to dwell or abide within your ward, "that LONDON. that is not put under frank-pledge, as he ought to be by the custom of the city ; and whether anv person hath continued in the said ward by space of one year; being above tbe age of twelve years, and not sworn to be faithful and loyal to the king's majesty, in such sort as by the law and custom of this city ought to be. 12.." To all these purposes, the beadle of every ward shall employ his diligence and give his. best furtherance, 13. " Also you are to take order, that there be provided and set up a pair of stocks, and a wiippinig-post, in some convenient place in every parish within your ward, for the punishment of vagrants and other offenders. 14. " Also, that 3'ou hav;e special regard that, from time to time, there be convenient provision for hooks, ladders, buckets, spouts, and engines, in meet places, vrithin -the se veral parishes of your ward, for avoiding the peril of fire... ,15. " Also, that the streets and lanes of this city be, from, time to time, kept clean before every church, house, shop,, warehouse, door, dead wall, and in all .other common passages and streets of the said ward. 16. "And whereas, by divers acts of common council, aforetime made and established for the common weal of this city, among other things, it is ordained and enacted, as hereafter ensueth : ' Also it is ordained and enacted, as hereafter ensueth ; that, from henceforth, no huckster of ale or beer be withir] any ward of the city of London, but honest person* of good name and fame, and so taken and admitted by the alderman of the ward for the rime being ; and that the same hucksters do find sufficient surety afore the mayor and aldermen for the time being, to be of good guiding and rule ; and that the same hucksters shall keep no b,awdry, nor suffer no letchery, dice playing, carding, or any other unlawful ganies, to be done, exercised, or used within thdr houses ; and to shut in their doors at nine ofthe clock in the night, from Mi chaelmas to Easter, and from Easter to Michaelmas, at ten dock in the night; and, after that hour, sell no ale or beer. Aud if any huckster of beer or ale, after this act is published and LONDON; .«l smd proclaimed, sell any ale or beer, t vrithin f any -waird of the city of London, and be not admitted by ithe alderman, of the same ward so to do, or frndnotSufficicnt surety, as it is above rehearsed, the same huckster to have imprisonment, and make fine and ransom for , his, .eontempt, after the. dis cretion of the lord mayor and aldermen. And. also thjit! the said hucksters suffer no manner, of common e9,tjng or drink ing within their cellars 'pr Vaults,. coMra,Yy Jto.the ordinance thereof ordained and provided, as in the said act, niore ¦plainly appeareth at large.' ".We charge yon thatyou put the same in due execution accordingly," ' ' 17. " And also, that you see all tipplers, and other sellers of ale or beeri, as well privy bsteries as -brewers and inn-holders within your' ward, not selling by lav/ful mea,- sures sealed and marked with the city arms, or daggcg:,; be presented, and their names in 3'our said indentures be ex pressed, with their defaults ; so that the ch^.mbprlain may be lawfully answered of their amerciaments. 18- " And also, that you suffer no alien, or son of any born an alien, to be of the common council ; nor to exercise or use any other office within this city ; nor receive or acr cept any person your watch, privy or open, but English-' men born ; and if a stranger borrt out of this realm, made .denizen by letters patents, or any other, after his course and .lot, be appointed to any watch, that then ye command and compel him, or them, to" find in his stead and place an Eng lishman to supply the same. , 19. " And also, thatyou cause an abstract of the assise, appointed by act of parliament, for billets and othet fire- ,wood, to be fair written in parchment, and to be fixed, or hanged, up in a table, in some fit and convenient place in the parish Within your ward, where the. common people may best see .the same. 20. " And fiLirtbgy^more we charge and commai^d ,yon, thatyou cause such provision to be had in your said, ward, that all the streets and lanes within the said ward be, from time to time, clearised, aqd clearly voided 0/ ordure, dung, imire, rubbish, and pther filthy jhings, whatsoever be tp, the a.nnoyance of the king's majesty's suTjjects. 2 21. " An^ .52 LONDON; 21, *' And also; that, at all times, as you sJiall thinfe fiefcesSa*yi yo& do cause search to be made within your said •ivard for" all vagrant beggars, suspicious and idle P^opj^' and such as cannot shew how to live ; and such as shall be found Within your said ward, thatyou cause to be punished, arid dealt ipith according to the laws and statutes in such cases ordained artd provided. 22. " And also, we will and charge you, the said al derman, that yourself certify, and present before us, at the flaid general court, to be holden the aforesaid Monday next after the feast of the Epiphany, all the names and surnames, ttuly Written, of such persons being and dwelling within your said ward, as to be able to pass in any petty jury by themselves ; that is to say, every grand-juryman to be Worth in goods an hundred marks, and every petty-juryman forty marks; according to an act in that case ordained and pro- vided ; and the safiie you shall indorse on the back-side of your indenture. 23. " Item, for divers reasonable and urgent considera tions us especially moving, we straightly charge and com mand you, on the king our sovereign lord's behalf, that yc diligently provide and foresee, that no manner of person or personsy within your said ward, what condition or degree soever he or they be of, keeping tavern, or ale-house, ale- cellar, or any other victualling house, or place of coitimon resort to eat or drink in, within the same ward, permit or suffer, at any time hereafter, any common women of their bodies, or hariot's, to resort and come into their said house, or other the places aforesaid, to eat or drink, or otherwise to be conversant, or abide, or thither to haunt, or frequerjt, upon pain of imprisonment, as well of the tenant and keepei: of every such house or hOufeSs, and all other the places afoTft remembered, as of the cf)mmon women and harlots. 24. " Also, that you do give in chflr^fe' to the wdrdriiote inquest of your ward, all th6 articles delivered to you here- with; and that y^u may have a specid care of keeping thfe peace and good order d tiring youi: wardmote; and if a,ny offend hertih) yoU may fine oi;, punish them according to lavy. . 25. <¦<' And tONDON. B3 ¦S5.' " Ahd' whereas the monies recdved for the fines of i^efiohs refusing to hold ward offices within your ward, ought to Be eniployed in the serWce and for the public benefit 6f Ithe whole ward, and not of any pdrticular precinct dr parish within the ward ; these are therefore to require you to take care, that all such firies be, from time to time, disposed tof accordibg;Jy, foi: the benefit of the whole ward, as ybxi. With the deputy and common council-men of yoiir waild shall think most fitting ahd convenient ; and that no such lines be received or employed in dny partictilar precirici oV parish. " Not fallirig hereof, as yOd tender the common-weal of this city, and advahcetoent of good justice, and as ye will Ji'nswer for the cohttary at your utniost peril. " Dated at under the seal of office of mayoralty' of thie said city, in the year of the reigii of bilf sovereign lord George &c." By this pfecept it appears, that the cbulct of w^fdolot* consists of the aldetniah and the respective householders of his ward, by whom are anrtu&lly elected the seveiral officers J ^mfailg these the inquest receive the aforesaid instractions for their better regulation. The crtAMBERLAiN's coi;rt is held in- Guildhall, every jnorning, for inrolling and turiiirig over apprentices, ad mitting pei-isonS duly qualified to the freedom of the city, . and deciding all differences arising between masters and their afijjrenfifces, df whom about two tho'usaiid are aiiiiually ad- ^rilitted ifito the freedohi. The court oV hall-mote belongs to the several com- JJanies df citizens, by whom it is occasionally held in their respective h'alls, wherein the separaite affairs of th^ company are transacted. Th£ Pii'-PowPER COURT i^ hdd in ClotTi Fair (during the tim"^ of Bal'thoIomeW fair) by the city of London, and Mr. — — , steward for the possessors of the dissolved priory of St. Bartholomew, for hearing ahd deciding all differences cOrtimittcd against the tenor of the proclamation, which is annually made before the lord mayor, on tbe eve of St. Bar tholomew, for the better regulation ofthe said fair. Vol. n. No. 30. H St. Hi LONDON, St. MARTI n's-lj: -grand court. This court belongs to the hberty of that name, and is subject to the dean and chapter of Westminster. It is a court of record, held weekly .for the trial of all personal aetions whatever : the leadnig .process is a capias against the body, or an attachment against the goods ; so that a man's goods may be seized in his own house, if his person is not seized before : which is accord ing to the practice of all antient liberties or franchises. The court of the tower of london. This is a court of record held by prescription within the verge of the city, on Great Tower Hill, by a steward appointed by the. con stable of the Tower of London ; by whom are tried actions of debt for any sum, damage, and trespass. The court of general sessions is hdd at Guildhall, eight times in the year. Petty sessions hdd every day at the Mansion House be fore the lord mayor, or before an alderman at Guildhall. The police of London has no troops, nor any sort of re gular military watch : it is guarded by armed patroles and old men, who are only furnished with a lanthern, a pole, and an alarm rattle ; these persons patrole the streets, cry the hour, and proclaim the weather ; and are denominated the nightly watch. Yet, though the city is so slenderly guarded, " it is," as M. Grosley, liberally observes, " the only great city in Europe, where neither murders nor assassinations happen." — " Even in the most violent disturbances," continues this writer, " when I was in the midst of the mob, I have seen them threaten weakly, plunder some houses obnoxious to them, throw a few stones ; and though surrounded by troops, remain in a kind of awe, as well as the soldiers, through mu tual fear of the shedding of blood.-" , " In a word, the people of London, though haughty and ungovernable, are in themselves good-natured and humane: this holds even among those of the lowest rank *." We. are thus naturally brought to describe the various classes of inhabitants of the metropolis. These may be di- • Remarks on England, vided LONDON. fiS Tided into four classes; the nobility and gentry; the mer chants and principal tradesmen ; the clergy, physicians, lawyere, and military ; inferior tradesmen, &c. &c. &c. The first class usually residing six oiv eight months at what is called " the west end of the town," consists of such as have dependence on the court, or those whp live independently on their fortunes ; these personages are as much distinguished by their high rank as by thdr amiable qualities. 7''heir ba- h.avioflr in general is urbane, unaccompanied by tiresome external marks of civility. The luxuries in which they live, certainly create indulgences and extravagances ; but among this class, characters abound, as remarkable for their phi lanthropy, as for their exalted birth. There is scarcely a charitable, a beqevolent, or an pseful institution, but has monarchy and nobility. for its patron ; besides a long list of noble subscribers to promote its welfare. The merchants and tradesmen form a class of beings orna mental to human nature. They equal the nobility in mag- pificence; their houses are palaces, richly and beautifully furnished, exhibiting the realities, unaccompanied by the ostentatious display, of plenty. Their estates are either the wdl-eajrcied profits produced by the labour and ingenuity of ancestors; or an accumulation of property their personal acquisition ; thus they are generally masters of larger sums of money than they have occasion for in trade, and are con sequently provided against accidents, as well as to make ad vantageous purchases. They differ, howevev, from the merchants of ^jl pther n.atigns ; for, when they hf^yg made competent fortunes, they retire to their estates, aiid enjoy the fruit of their industry, reserving only business sufficient to divert their leisure hours. Thus they become magistrates and gentlemen qf independence in the coqnties where their possessions are sitn^ted ; and, frequently being younger Ijrothers qf titled families, it is not uncommon to see them re-purchase the paternal domains which the elder branches have been compelled to dispose of as supplies for their neqe^.^ |f ? Their fi* LONDON. Their punctu.ality is proverbial: they are at the .sam^ time generous and charitable, and obliging without lidng ceremonious ; they are ajso easy of access, and communi, cative. Let us follow them into their housdiolds. They rise early, survey the condition of their accounts, give their order^ without severity ; and haying appareled tJiemselyes in a iphin respectable garb, without footmen pr attendants, pursuei their concerns at the Exchange or the Cus-toni Hoqse. When we view the Royal Exchange, the New Riyer, th^ Marine Society, Magdalen Hospital, ^c. : with proud exul- ' tation we may exclaim, that they are the disinterested \vorks of a Gresham, a Middleton, a, Hanway!— all private mer chants !— These are, however, but a part of' thp pnlalic, spirited efforts of the London merchants. In the year 17^.4, six millions of money were raised for the use of govern ment ; of which 1 ,200,000^. was raised by the Bank of Eng land, the rest by twenty-two private London bankers. The clergy, legal chara,ctcrs, and the military, being thq same in all circles of society, we proceed to ' notice thp^ lejlding features, by which the lesser, tradesmen ^.nd the, commimity of London are distinguished. No rank or dig nity was formerly secure from the insuks of the lowe^ ranks, and the indiscriminate abus offered by thern, were constant objects of regret*; the niany regulations, however, wliich have been made to curb their insolence, sufficiently secure. the passage of the streets, and both narives and foreigners} inay pass without molestation. But, as often is experienced, the civility of the shop keepers compensates for the insolence of the rabble. They will be at pains to direct the right road to strangers; and< • M. Grosley mentions an entertaining anecdote to this purpose. "The late lylarshal Saxe, walking through London strefets, happened to' have a dispute with a scavenger, which ended in a boxing bout,' wherein' the marshal'? dexterity received the general applause of the spectators: he suffered the scavenger to make an attacif, when seizing him whilst off. his guard, the marshal whirled him into the air with such velocity, and Jtt such a direction, that he was immersed in the mud of his own cart. " '' very LONDON, 51 •f e|y seldom ti^eat those who make inquiries witj;i disrepect, ^hey mostly put down the loyyest prices of their articles, ^u4 3.re Remarked by fopigners for tlje integrity of tlidr dealings. The emigrants from France, siqce tfce last J^evolution, can bear sufficient testimonies pf the jiberality and objiging offi- piousness pf the inhabitants of London, in, ?dley}ating the|r jiistresses, and in si^pplying their necessities, If w,e take a view of pther metrppplitan cities, we dis cover every mod^e to prevent Qf forbi4 publicity ; guards, walls, .gates, passports, spies, aiid ^]\ the engines of suspi cion and s}aypry. Bi,]! iii London, such danger is, unknown. As free and 3,5 open as her commerce, gates are rendered nnnecessary ;. the reciprocal good understanding betweeiis London and the other district^ pf tjie empire, renders her .safety ^nd improvenient pf the liighest importance. Jt i? therefore, a consequent reason, tl)at -the streets are better. paved tind better lighted than those qf every other metro polis. The esfffect produced is remarkably ,graiid, as well ^ qf abundant utility. Let it then suffice that London has arrived at a period of improvenieiit and elegance uneifampled in the annals of pities.. Not Thebes with her hundred' gates, Memphis, Ba bylon, py any recorded nietropolis of antiquity; not Con stantinople, Pekin, or any other ^loslefn metropolis, caa equal her,. Therefore, how happy must her inhabitants be at suph an enviable era, whpn her riches have not made her' prond ; when the mildness of her gpyernment h^ rendered all ground her happy ; and when Virtue, Religion, Liberty, and the Sciences, ha.ve made .her .their residence. What can the histoyan do more thaji recprd so vast a period of prosperity I what can he wish, other than its continuance undiminished to the extent of future ages ! We conclude this part of our plan, by a few remarks on the increase of London from the year 1748 to the close of the last century. Coipmencing at the north-east ; the whole extent of ground fr«m Goodman's Fields to Stepney, and from Whitecbapejl^ roa4 58 LONDON. road to Shadwelf, has been nearly covered with buildinjfs j beside the recent erection of the West India Docks. On the other sid& cf Whitechapd road, from Hackney to Beth, rial Green and Mile End, th? whole has been covered with greets and hoqses, 'The line of increase on tfae south-east side, proceeds from peptford to Camberwdl, Kenriington, and Stockwell, and thence by Lambeth to 'Westminster and Blackfriars Bridges, taking in the whole space formerly denominated St. George'f Fields, sufficient to form a considerable city. Continuing towards Chelsea, Walham Green, Hp,mmer-, smith, Turnham Green, Kensington, to Hyde Park Corper, the whole extent is covered witlj convenient buildings of ele, gant structure. From Bayswater to Paddington, Hampstead, Highgate, by Highbury to Kingsland and Hackney, where the line of cir- cumvallation meets, the whole of Lisson Green, Camdei\ Town, Soniers To^n> Pentonville, I^oUoway, Highbury, and Kingsland, have risen within memory to an amazing extent. The tracts of ground have been formed into mag-. nificent squares and streets of stately piansions. The im-" provements of greatest conseiquence have been mostly on the north side of the metropolis. Thus, the whole parishes of Paddington > St. Mary -la-Bonne, and Pancras, with the ad- dirional buildings in St. Giles in the Fields, have been vyliolly built; and the Middlesex and Foundhng Hospitals, the patk to which were reckoned dangerous from the depredations of robbers, are now surrounded ^yith handsome streets. The squares which have been formed are Portman, Manchester, Fitzroy, Bedford, Tavistock, Russel, and Brunswick ; be, sides that magnificent range of palaces, Portland Plape, Ecclesiastical Government. Consistently with our plan of regularity, we subjoin some account of the ecclesiastical snperiptendanee of London as a diocese *. ^ • By the word diocese, is to be understood the circuit of a bishop's ju risdiction ; and as cities are not deemed within that jurisdiction by th* ?anon law, the citations are directed to the clergy ofthe aiy and diocese. Thi^ LONDON. i» This city. In the time of the Britains, was supposed to be an archbishoprick ; it was confessedly a bishoprick till the time of the' Saxons; when -chance having established the metropolitical see at Canterbury in the person of Augustine ; by his appointment, one of his followers Melitus, was eon- stituted the first bishop of London ; one hundred and one prelates, mostly in regular succession, have presided in the see since his time to the present period. The diocese contains the whole city, and the counties of Middlesex and Essex, with part of Hertfordshire, the sub ordinate jurisdiction of which, is under the authority of a dean, a chanter, a chancellor, a treasurer, the five arch deacons of London, Middlesex, Essex, Colchester, and St. Albans ; of thirty prebendaries ; and of the whole body of rectors and vicars within the circuit. . The city and liberties formerly contained, one hundred and thirteen parish churches, twenty-seven monasteries, colleges, and chapels.; twenty-eight parish churches and religious houses in West minster and the suburbs, making a tota] of one hundred and sixty-eight places for divine worship. Before the great fire, the parish churches had been reduced to ninety-seven, of which eighty-four were destroyed, fifteen left single as be fore, and sixty-nine united into thirty-four ; so that at pre- is.ent only sixty-one churches remain within, and ten without, the walls ; nine churches in Westminster, and its liberties ; and twenty in that part of the metropolis within the county of Middlesex ; beside St. Paul's Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, and the churches within the Tower, the Temple, and the Savoy. When, l^wever, we state the whole of the religious esta blishment df this vast metropolis on both sides of the Thapies, it will appear to contain two hundred and forty-two placds for divine worship of the established religion; one hundred and fifty meeting-houses for Dissenters of various denomi nations ; thirty chapels for foreigners, Ronjan Catholics, &c. and six synagogues for those of the Jewish persuasion ; be, sides four thousand and fifty seminaries of public and privatqi education, which are appropriately classed under this bead. '3 The ^6 t6>lDd^V The account of the military establishment wiU be j^i^i^ ^nder the head', the ARTiLLEitV- cdMPANYi • River and Canal Navigahori. The first object of attention undfer this head is a stimrti^Y/ description of the Thames. This fine river from its source ^ Thsinies-Head in Gloui cestershire to Shoebui-y-Ness, measures, by scale, between one hundred arid twenty and one hundred ahd thirty rtlles, taking in a considerable portion of the central sdfface of England'; this distance, however, woiild nearly be doubled; tvereall the windings and deviations of its channel td be aif-» certainfed; Flowing in a calhi and gentle manner, without rapid' c'li^.* rents or cataracts, it does not assume the turbulence of a tor* rent, but taking its course frbm an elevated, rather than i mountainous tract, it is fitted for navigation, as soon &i it acquires depth sufficient to bear a vessel ; arid associatihgf ¦^ith streams which partake df its own property, coiririiercd assumes her placid stately dominion; without the obstruction bf rocks, or the struggles of a pent-up bed over-hung with crags. In thd estimate of its picturesque beauties, thoUgh tha romantic constitute no part; the swfeet, the soft, the se questered, the rich, and the majestic, form a list of cJiarfnt e'qually attractive, and blended in evfery possible variation: Its scenes are composed of rural beauty and dignified opu lence. Always elegant and sometimes grand; the artificial t)rnaments of villas, edifices, and pleasure grounds, whi'cfe g-raee its banks, contribute to forht those fascinating land scapes, which add to the elevated beauties of the surround ing country ; whilst the stream itself, where' its breadth gra duates it mto consequence, swdls to the brink, and '* with-' out o'erfloWing full *," is the capital object in vieW. With all these charming and interesring qualities, ther*' are such drawbacks, that to call the Thames the' " kin"- of" poodsf }" is an injury to. its known good qualities ; Yor * Denham. f ThomWft. thong^ LONDON. ei ihdll^h its floods are not so sudden or violent as those of bther rivers, it partakes Of inundation and drought ; its in trinsic merit, hoWever, will always secure to it a refepfect- khl6 rank ; for feW of the most celebrated streams afford a lefn'gth of navigation for large ships equal to that of the Thames, in point of safety, carcj and-regularity^ Certainly ho EiiroJieaA metrojJolis is benefited by its river equal to London. The water is so cbpioUs al Thames-Head, near Ciren cester, that it throvrs up several tuns every minute into the Thames and Sevei"n Canal. During the summer months> however, the visible connection With the current is preca rious, and the Infant Thames is only discoverable at the Village of Kemble, in Wiltshire ; here it is crossed by a rude bridge, and here Its slirength is sufficient to turn a milli At the town of Cricklade, it receives the Churn. This, and the aceession of other small streams, renders it, at the length of nine miles from its source, navigable tor barges of six or seven tons biirthen; but the scarcity of" water in summer has rendered this navigation so precarious, that the Upper stream has been disused for carriage, the preference having been given to the more certain navigation by the canal. The Cole from Wiltshire, and the Coin from Gloucester shire, enrich the Thames near Fairford ; and, now sensibly widened, the river flow's to Lechlade, where it is joined by the canal from the Severn. Here the addition of wiater renders the Thames capable of carrying barges of fifty or sixty tons burthen, though the summer drought and the winter floods too frequently form impediments to the pas sage. To remedy this inconvenience, several locks are form ed, a continuation of which contrivance is rendered of im portance at proper distances ; but is considered unnecessary at Boulter's lock, below Maidenhead Bridge*. Below * Though the Thames is said to be navigable one hundred and thirty- eight miles above bridge, yet there are so many flats, that, in summer, ' Vol. II. No, 3«. I the 62 LONDON. Bdow Lechlade, the Lech stream adds its tribute tothe parent river, Avhich now separates the counties of Oxford and Gloucester, at Radcot Bridge, famous for the battie between the discontented barons headed by the earl of Derby (afterwards Henry IV.) and Robert de Vere, duke of Irdand, favourite of Richard II. and his adherents, m which the latter was defeated. The Thames then continues its course to Farringdon at a small distance from which it re- ceives the JVindrush ; then taking a northern direction, it flows the grounds of Stanton Harcourt, receiving into its channel the united streams of Eve^-dode and Glym. In solemn progress, it soon leaves the unhallowed domains of Godstow nunnery, preparative to its approach to the seat of the muses, Oxford ; here the fictitious Isis usurps her undue preference of classic honour to the real Thames, which, notwithstanding, receives her into company, jointly Vvith the Cherxmll. The Oxford canal, also, after a com- niUnication of eighty-two mile? with Coventryj at which place another canal is joined, forms an important connexion with the Thames, near this place, and brings with it the pro- ductions'of the Warvvickishire collieries. Keeping a direct southern course, the river flows on to, Nun eham Courtney, the elegant seat ofthe earl of Har court ; and making a bend to the west, proceeds to the town of Abingdon; where the tributary waters of the Ock intro duce the Thames to the county of Bucks. The Tame or Thame, obscurely mingles with the river, which re-visits Oxfordshire at the village of Dorchester. the navigation westward would be entirely stopped, when the springs are low, were it not for a number of locks. But these are attended with considerable expence ; for a barge from Lechlade to London pays for passing through them, 131 .)5s. 6d. and from Oxford to London, 121. 8s. This charge, however, is in summer only, when the water is low ; an,d there is no lock from London Bridge to Boulter's Lock ; that is, for fifty- one miles and a half above bridge. The plan of new cuts has been adopted in some plades, to shorten and facilitate the navigation. There is one near Lechlade, which runs nearly parallel to the old river, and contiguous to St. John's Bridge ; and there is another, a mile from Abingdon, which has rendered the old stream toward Culhsm Bridge useless, 2 ^l,. LONDON. 6.3 The next place of consequence which receives advantage from this admirable river, is the borough of' Wallingford, the Calleva of the Romans. It is here crossed by a stone Bridge of nineteen arches, and thence proceeds to Caver- sham, in full view of Reading, the Kennet incircling the current by its copious waters. A few miles further, the Loddon, Pope's Lodona, which rises near Basingstoke, joins its stream. Henley is the npxt object of consequence for its malt and corn trade ; and here a handsome stone bridge ornaments the picture. A beau tifully meandring course brings the Thames to Great Marlow in Buckinghamshire, which supplies the metropolis with a share of its provision. Here also the Wick, mixes with the current, which passing beneath the lofty wooded banks of Cliefden, proceeds to Maidenhead Bridge, an deg*,ht struc ture of Portland stone, of seven principal and six smaller arches, leading to the respectable market town whence it takes it name*. Pecuharly the favourite of Royalty, of the Muses, and of Commerce, the Thames majestically pursues its way to the venerable turrets of Windsor ; the illustrious residence of monarchy, of the virtues, of benevolence, and of unsullied chivalry. Its valuable philosophical neighbour Eton, uniting t^e religious vrith a scholastic institution, Datchet Mead, cele brated by Shakespere, Denham's Cooper's Hill, the green level of Runnymead, remembered in the annals of liberty, ail ornament these animated shores. The Coin unites its waters with the Thames, near Staines, where a bridge crosses the river. Chertsey, the residence of rich Benedictines, and afterwards of Cowley, has an ele gant stone bridge, whence the Thames pursues its course to Weybridge in Surrey, and receives the Wey, which is here increased by the canal from Basingstoke. Hampton Court, the residence of the haughty Wolsey, and the neglected mansion of royalty, with the town of Kingston, in Surrey, form a communication by means of a wooden bridge of great antiquity; here the Hog''s-MiU river empties itself from the neighbourhood pf Epsom. I 2 Th^ «i LONDON. The Than^es now hastens to those luxurious scenes where the vicinity of the metrppolis is perpetually indicated by the creations of art and opulence. The artificial Gothic villa of Strawberry Hill, the residence ofthe late earl of Oxford; the beauties pf Twickenham ; the hill of Richmond, a pros pect of all that can be denominated degant and rural ; the magnificent seat of Sion ; the castellated palace of Kew; anc^ a|l the precious treasures pf the IJortus Kewensis ; with thq busy contrast ofthe mills at Brentford, form scenes that may probably be paralleled, but cannot be exceeded. In the nearer approaches to the city, this majestic riv'eE increases in grandeur, and in vario.us turnings assumes the appearance of the expanded lake ; whilst the elegant villasj seats, and pleasure-grounds of Mortlake, Barnes, Chiswick, and Hammersmith, successively enliven the stream. The villages of Fulham and Putney, connected by a long wooden bridge next arrest the attention. These shores are vvortby of notice ; the first for the residence of the most benign of prelates ; the other for being the birth-place of Gibbon, the historian ; but more eminently for that of the great states man the unfortunate CromweU, earl of Essex. At Wandsworth, the river Wandle, fanions' for itsbleach^ ing mills, unites its busy stream, and thus the Thames, now bordered by the repositories pf trade, urges its course througl^ Battersea Bridge and Chelsea, to the ^rchiepiscopal palace of Lambeth, and the immediate vicinity of the commercial metropolis of Europe, Having passed the two stately bridges at Westminster and Blackfriars, and rushed through the arches of London Bridge,' the scene assumes a new and varied appearance ; here tall forests of merchandize, exibiring the streamers of all na tions, form themselves in close contact, to permit a, narrow passage to the wary lyherryman ; passing the Tower, a for tress, a palace, and a prison ; a line of building commences, occupied by the employments connected with shippingj which, under the names of Wapping, Shad well, Ratdile, and Limehouse on one side, with Horsleydown, Rotherhithe, and Deptford on the other, fills, the mind with whatever can be LONDON: es- ^e cOEceived, the business of navigation and mercantile pur- sjjits. The Wapping Docks exhibit a striking feature of the progress and success of exten si vp traffic. At Deptford, the forrnation and furniture of bulwarks of Britain, afford sensations equally impressive and interesting. Here the Ravensbourne ingulphs its stream, which now is scarcely considered an important addition to the vast current that takes it into its protection. Greemvich presents the most magnificent single object in the whole course of the river we have been describing : the hospital, in a stile of architecture that would grace the pa lace for which it was at first intended ; cannot be too highly adorned, when appropriated as an asylum to rest the aged Jinabs of the brave defenders of their country. The Is}e of Dogs, the West India warehouses, and Black- wall, next arrest notice. The We,st India warehouses ex hibit a proof of opulence and perseverance ; and is one of the greatest works distinguishable of prosperity and unity. Here the Lea, after contributing to the riches of the coun ties through which it passes, empties its sti-eam, and con- yeying its various commodities to London, makes the ar ticle of coals, &c<. an appropriate and useful article in return. The next interesting object is Woolwich and its dock yard, warren, and barracks, over-hung by the variety and - grandeur of Shooter's Hdl. Bdow this place, on the Essex sliore, Barking and Dagenham Creeks enter the river, which is here widened to a considerable channel. The woody heights of Erith, and the vast magazine of" powder at Purfleet, constructed with admirable'strength and contrivance, assume a romantic contrast. Hence, through the South Hope, th^ chalk cliffs of Greenhithe, and North- fleet afford a singular object of admiration : opposite Purfleet ' the Darent enters the Thames, .Gravespnd, a corporate town, is worthy of notice in the Thames navigation, as the first port from the entrance of the river, and where all outward-bound ships take in their prbvisions 65 LONDON. provisions for long voyages. The opposite fort of Tilbury, Js the chief defence of the river Thames, which here is about a mile in breadth. Below Gravesend, the Hope forms an extensive channel, taking in Mucking Creek, till it comes to Leigh, where a large stone marks the city boundary of conservation of the river. Still keeping along the Essex coast, the fashionable watering place of South End presents itself, whence is a noble prospect of the entrances of the Thames and Medway. Shoebury Ness soon appears in view, as a north termination of the mouth of the river. The Kentish corfst, forms the southern limb of this rich stream ; and after receding, so as to give a sudden expan sion to the channel, terminates at the Isle of Grain, which lying between the Thames and Medway, cut off from the main land by a narrow creek, joins the two rivers, at the distance pf six miles from Shoebury Ness. Thn?, after connecting the metropolis with every central part of ithe British nation, and with the remotest regions of the globe ; at the same time that it bestows beauty and fer tility on. the widely extended vale through which it takes its winding course ; the Thames at this place majestically min gles with the ocean, receiving from, and dispensing to, all the world, the beneficial confluence of corpmercial intercourse. Respecting the jurisdiction and the police of this river, we shall reserve our observations for a future period, when our topographical researches will bring us to the Thames Police Office at Shadwell, and only state the privileges of the corporation, as yet uninvaded ; which are " To regulate the fisheries in the Thames and Medway, and to make bye-laws. " To preserve the river from injurious encroachments, " To cleanse the river, and to pi-eserve its depth by the; removal of mud and filth. " To prevent and remove nuisances and obstructions of every kind. " To repair banks and bre^cheis in the r:iver.. " To erect posts for the conveniency of shipping. London* ei " To maintain. and.keep in repair certain public stalrs; "• To grant licences to erect wharfs, stairs, causewaysj and other innocent projections. " To take up and lay down mooring- chains for the con* veniency of shipping. " To appoint a. water-bailiff to superintend the fisheries, and to prevent eneroachments, obstructions, and other nui sances in the river. " To make bye-laws for the. regulation and proper birthing of ships, vessels, and craft in the river Thames, and also, rules for harbour-masters. " To manage and direct all matters relative to the canal across the Isle of Dogs, and to cqjlect the rates thereon. " To appoint one or more harbour-masters to attend to. the birthing of ships, and to the well-ordering of the port. " To hold courts of conservacy, for the punishment of offences. " To regul§,te and control lightermen and watermen in the river, aniounting to from six to eight thousand usually employed. " To regulate and control tackle-house porters, twenty- two in number. " To appoint, regulate, and control ticket porters, for the landing and discharging of goods, about one thousand five hundred in all. " To appoint in conjunction with the governors of Christ's Hospital, and to regulate and control carroons or privileged carts, four hundred and twenty in number, to 9onvey mer chandize to and from the landing places, to the repositories of the merchants ; about six hundred in all, including ser* vants. '* To appoint svyorn meters, for measuring cqals in the port of London, and to control and regukte, in a certain degree, this impprtant branch of trade. " Tp appoint corn meters, and to regulate and contro^ the importation of this important necessary of life. " To appoint measurers for salt, and also fruit and vege tables, water-borne on the Thames. 68 LONtiO^; " An old law of James I, for the well-garbling 6f spces id London, (stat. 1. Jajc. I. cap, 19.) being by length of time! found useless, if not prejudicial, was repealed, by stati 6 Ann. c. 16. and an equivalent was given to the city of London, for the profits formeriy made of the garbler's officej by laying a tax of forty shillings yearly, to be paid to the chamberlain of London by all brokers ; nevertheless, fhe! lord mayor, aldermen, and common council, may still; if they think fitting, appoint a garbler who, at the requeft of the owner of any species of drugs garbleable, and not others wiscj shall garble the same, at such fees, &c. as the lord mayor, &c. may appoint. " The privileges of the package bf cloths and certairi other outward-bound goods of foreign merchants, denizens or afiens ; of scavage {i. e. shewage or survejsing) of certairi goods imported by foreign merchants ; of baillage, or dej. livery of goods of such merchants to be exported upon and through the river Thames, and upon any wharf or shore thereof ; and also the portage of wool, tin, and other articlesj (imported or exported by such merchants,) to and from tbe' Thames, and to and from the warehouses of such merchants : all these are confirmed to the city by charter, of the 15th of September, 16 Charles II. ; and certain rates and duties are appointed by a schedule to the charter, to be paid ac cordingly. '* These functions are of great moment, and frorh their accurate and proper execution, advantages of a very ex tensive nature are to be derived by the community ; while in the present state of society, and from the magnitude of the commercial interests of the port, infinite mischief and inconvenience must result from a relaxed or inattentive ex ecution of the important duties which the city of London has imposed upon itself. " To the individuals who compose the respectable body*^ of the corporation of London,' the utmost confidence is due, both on account of their integrity and talents; but in their' private capacity, no responsibility attaches, while in their corporate situation, the obligation to perform a duty iscon- sideied LONDON. 69 sidered to extend no futher than to make an order, " that it ' shall be carried into effeSl." Whether therefore, in the ex ecution there is merit or demerit, is not an object of inquiry or cognizance, unless some gross misconduct urges a com plaint or accusation. An individual follows up his direc tions, and sees that they are carried pointedly into execu tion. Where an onus or responsibility rests there is secu rity: where it does not, in spite of the best guards that can be devised, and even the best and most patrio tic intentions on the part of many of the individuals, who compose great public bodies, relaxation will be manifest, and inconve niences will consequently be felt by the public. - " A hope however may be indulged,. that from the col lected view in which these" important functions have been placed, and from the great consequence of an uninterrupted conscientious execution, many worthy members of society, who now are or hereafter may become members of the cor poration of London, will feel impresssd with the weight of the trust committed to their charge; and by a zealous and patriotic regard to tbe public good, counteract those incon veniences and obstructions which this species of superin tendance generates in this and every other country, where commerce is concerned *." New River. Though the water of the Thames is for many purposes highly beneficial to London, its purity is liable to many al terations, a copious supply of unpolluted element is there fore an extremely desirous addition. The Thames water must be forced to ascend by machines, before it can be dis tributed even to the lower parts of the town, whereas a stream from the country to the northern side of London, mdy by its own gravity, be made to flow in a natural descenttoany quar_ ter pf the widely extended metropolis ; from these conside rations, a spirited individual, in the reign of James I. Sir Hugh Middleton, citizen and goldsmith, a native of Den- * Colquhoun's Treatise on the River Police. Vol. il No. 30. K bighshire, 70 bighshire, proposed the scheme of bringing a source of water out of Hertfordshire, in an artificial channel to London. In the year 1608, he commenced the undertaking at his own expence ; and after exhausting all his resources, and bemg refused aid from the corporation, was enabled, by the assist ance of king James I. to bring it to completion. On Sep tember 29, 1613, the water vvas let into the New River Head at Tshngton ; but the projector was ruined \ry his success, and it was long before the scheme could be rendered useful to the public, and beneficial to the proprietors. The source of the New River is between Ware and Hert ford, about twenty-one miles from London : a collection of many springs form a large open bason of considerable depth, with the following inscription : on the north side, " opened IN 1608 ;" on the south, " conveyed 40 miles ;" on the east, " CHADWELL SPRING ;" on the west, '.' repaired 1728." To preserve a level, the New River takes a winding course ; it is parallel to the Lea, for a considerable length, at the distance of a mile or two, on higher ground, from which river a very great augmentation of water has been obtained. Having passed Ware, Amwdl, Hoddesdon, Broxbourn, and Clieshunt, it enters Middlesex, hear Waltham Cross ; and in a circuitous stream towards Enfield Chase, returns to Enfield *. The river then passes by two devious bends in the neigh bourhood of Edmonton, and proceeds to Hornsey ; still winding among the gentle elevations of this pleasant tract, it embellishes the landscape at Stoke Newington, and thence onward beneath Highbury, to the east side of Islington, where it dips under the road, in a subterraneous channel of two hundred yards. Near this place is a brick building, whence. * At Bush Hill, south of Enfield, the river was formerly carried across a valley in an open woody trough, six hundred and sixty feet in length, supported by arches ; but the modern improvement in canal making, has suggested a better mode of effecting the same purpose by means of a_raised mound of earth. Over which the river passes in a new channel, that was completed in the year 1785. This was the case also between Horn sey and Highbury, in another wooden aqueduct of one hundred and seventy-eight yards ; which has since been changed for a raised bank of day. several LONDON. 71 several mains issue for the sup~ply of the eastern side of Lon don. A little above this tunnel, a very antient spring, eight feet in depth, and arched over, flows into the river. The New River rises again in Colebrook Row, after having passed the road, and coasts the southern side of Isling ton, till its termination at the New River Head, Sadler's Wdls. Canal Navigation. London being the focal point of emanation for operations of magnitude in the whole world of improvement, commerce, and finance, it should be the E^mbition of Great Britain, to secure all the profits arising from such sources to the mer chants and bankers of that capital. . ^ The reason for this preference is plain ; England excels in arts and manufactures, which have been making, and con tinue to make rapid progress towards perfection : nature also, hath given her many local advantages, so as to render her competent to the distribution of her commodities, and to the completion ofthe most comprehensive designs. Among these designs is to be ranked the useful project of inland navigation ; and though its progress, does not appear to have arrivjad at an investigation of its I'dative connection with the infant science of finance ; much has been effected since its birth in England, and a comparative view of its fu ture prospects must afford the most pleasing sensations. It appears that few objects.of internal policy have so much called forth the powers and resources of a country as . .Canals ; and, on account of the cheapness of conveyance, andthe advantages attendant on an easy and secure com munication of the different parts of a country with another, they are allowed to be, the greatest of all improvements. This being premised, we proceed to state how far the merchants of the city of London have been induced to adopt improvements so beneficial to themselves and to the country. Had the plan of Sir Christopher Wren, been properly at tended to, and a grand wharf formed along the city shore from London Bridge to the Temple, no other improvement K. 2 * would 72 LONDON. would have been necessary : short-sighted interest and ava rice opposed bis endeavours, and the shores exhibit only the inconveniences of narrow wharfs. Fishmongers Hall serves as a specimen of the ornament, which that great ar chitect intended. Several suggestions have since appeared ; and had Mr. Gwynne's plan in 1765 *, of sweeping away the whole of the south side of Thames Street been adopted, the benefit which would have arisen to the commercial interests of the city, would not only have compensated the loss of these in convenient structures which compose that street ; but the neces.sity of new docks would have been prevented, andthe advantage to property in mercantile concerns incalculable. We will state what Mr. Gwyime says on the subject : " The space occupied by the piers and sterlings of Lon don Bridge, is considerably greater than that allowed for the passage of the water, consequently more than half the breadth of the river is in this place entirely stopped, whereas the obstruction ' occasioned by the piers at Westminster Bridge, is not near one-third of the water-way, and it is needless to mention the effects of this obstruction, since the most melancholy instances are too frequently experienced to need a repetition. The truth is, this wretched bridge ought to have been entirely demolished ages ago, and a greater mistake never was committed than that of making the late repairs, and endeavouring to improve so intolerable a nui sance, the execution of which has manifestly proved its ab surdity, since the main design of those improvements (which was to lessen the fall at the ebbing of the tide) has by experi ence been entirely defeated, and shews that the best repair that could possibly have been made, was to have taken it en tirely down. Indeed, at the time when it was become ne cessary to add sterlings in order to preserve the foundation of the piers, and prevent the superstructure from falling, at that very time the whole bridge should have been demo lished, and rebuilt in an degant and commodious manner, * London and Westminster improved. and LONDON. 13 afid the money Avhich at that time was expended, in piling and securing it, and the annual sums which it has since cost in repairs, exclusive of the last enormous one, would have been more than sufficient to have defrayed the expence, and had the least attention been givep at that time to this consi deration, it must have been a sufficient motive for rebuilding the bridge *. It has been often ignorantly asserted, that the arches of this bridge were originally constructed in the man ner they are, in order to restrain the ebbing of the tide, to preserve the navigation of the river above the bridge ; others have with like ignorance and confidence said, that if the arches of the bridge were widened, the tide would ebb away so fast, tliat there would be scarce any navigation above the bridge a little after high-water ; that is, it would be low- water much sooner than it is at present, and thereby the na vigation would be hindered. This last assertion is so very absurd, that it is scarcely v.'orth mentioning, for had these objectors once considered that the river is navigable so very far above the reach of the tide, they would never have thought of advancing so wretched an argument. In fact, a new bridge, as bas been before observed, was absolutely ne cessary in this place, and should have been built instead of i-epairing the old one, this would, besides the preservation of many lives, have reflected honour upon the city of Lon- ¦ don, have very considerably improved the navigation of the river, and been a most noble and useful ornament ; in stead of which, an immense sum of money has been thrown away, the bridge itself is left a greater nuisance than it was before (owing to the prodigious rapidity of the stream under the great arch) with this additional aggravation, that will * The present alteration of -London Bridge cost near one hundred thousand pounds. Seventy-five thousand pounds, part advanced by parhament at five times, and seven thousand five hundred pounds, part of twenty-four thousand pounds, remainder allowed ro have been ex pended in that alteration, besides the materials of the houses, many of which were new. The parish of St. Magnus consisted of about one hundred and five Jiouses, eighty of whicli are destroyed for opening the avenues and clear ing the bridge. very 11 LONDON. very probably, be continually calling in the aid of quackery, remain a perpetual expence for a considerable time, and a standing reproach to the present age, which by no means deserves such treatment. " It appears upon the further consideration of this great nuisance, that (as if the miserable contrivance of the bridge itself was not impediment enough to the navigation) it is most terribly encumbered with the engine for raising water, which occupies no less than four arches, the effeft these works have upon the navigation therefore is very consider able, besides the shocking appearance they make as an ob ject. It is proposed therefore, to take this whole machine entirely away. Such a proposal will undoubtedly be thought extravagant by some people, and the profit accruing to the proprietors of the water-works will be objected as an ob stacle, but as it is apprehended that the chief part ofthe re venue arising to the London Bridge water-works, is' pro duced from the Borough of Southwark, it is proposed to bring the river Wandle from Mitcham, in Surrey, to the Borough, which, as it is but a small distance from London, ^ may be easily done, and at no very great expence ; Brom ley river might be made to supply Deptford and Rother hithe, and the New River Company might supply all that part of the city of London, which is now served by the London Bridge water-works. It may be likewise objected, that the New River will be insufficient to supply the whola metropolis ; in answer to this it may be said, that the New River is certainly capable of supplying the whole quantity wanted ; but as it may not be so conveniently done, there is another great resource for the supply of this very useful ele ment. There is reason to hope the river Coin will be made navigable from Uxbridge, and brought to Mary-la-Bone ; which will more than serve all the new buildings and parts adjacent, as well as the city of Westminster. It has been objected to this last very useful scheme (and some objection will eternally be made to every design for the public good) that the navigation of the river Thames will be prejudiced by the want of the water which this scheme will direct from 5 its LONDON 75 its usual course ; but this has before been fully refuted by the observation, that the river is navigable for the west country barges many miles higher up than at the place where the Coin falls into it, and therefore its waters are of little consequence to the navigation of the river Thames. There is one consideration above all the rest that ought to be attended to, which is, that whilst the supplying of water is chiefly in one company's hands, it becomes a kind of mo nopoly, and has this danger attending it, that the proprietors of the works have it in their power at any time to lay what ever tax they please on the inhabitants." It was this gentleman's Opinion, that the whole of Thames Street, from London Bridge to tbe Tower, sbould be re moved ; that the Custom House should be rebuilt upon an extensive scale, with its back to St. Dunstan's Church; that the church of. St. Magnus should be re-erected on jhe north side of the street ; that the east end of Fishmonger's Hall should be ornamented with an elegant front towards the Tower ; and that the wharf should continue along the shore without interruption. The late James Sharp, esquire, a member of the common council, and brother of the benevolent Granville Sharp, took great pains to assert a,nd maintain the right of the city of London to the conservation of the navigation, fishery, &c. of Ithe river Thames and Lea, and to render the navigation, or communication by water more certain, expeditious, and beneficial to the city and the public at all times ; he pro posed to the common council, the making two canals, sixtv feet wide, the one extending from Brentford, on the river Thames, upwards to Boulter's Lock, beyond the city's ju risdiction, and communicating at various places with that river ; and the other from Moorfields, in the direction of the river Lea, and communicating with it at various places, as far as Waltham Abbej'. Both canals were intended to be come free to the public as soon as the money advanced for the works should be defrayed by the tolls, except such *maJI proportion of toll as might be necessary for repairing the IS LONDON. the works ; so that no private property was to be made of these two great public highways, though the, city was to guarantee the repayment of the sums borrowed ! Perhaps there were never two propositions more perfectly disinterested, and generously intended for the public or na tional advantage, than these two plans which were approved and adopted by the city of london, without any view of peculiar advantage or interest whatsoever, except what was equally open to the public : so that the city on this occasion, has left on record a noble example for all other cor porations AND privileged SOCIETIES. The first plan was surveyed by Mr. Brindley and his as sistant Mr. Whitworth ; was printed at ihe expence of the city, and proposed to parliament, but was violently op posed, and THROWN out. The second was surveyed by Mr. Whitworth alone, and printed also at the expence of the city, but was EauALLY unsuccessful in parliament. After vvhich, the city once more adopted a plan (the third) of the same proposer, to make a towing-path on the banks of the Thames, from Putney upwards, to the full extent of the city's jurisdiction up to London Stone, above Staines. The work was survej^ed at the expence of the dty, as before, by Mr. Whitworth, and the plan and proposals were printed. The city (very ge nerally) proposed to advance ten thousand pounds for the. work, on being allowed a proportionable toll or tonnage, until reimbursed, which proposal was at length carried through pariiament, after «w indefatigable attendance, by the said proposer, on all such members of both houses, as he caidd possibly procure acce/s to, in order to explain the propriety of the measure, and the disinterestedness of the city ill what they requested foi^ the public good ! The work was happily completed, and proves of great public utility to this day * 1 When it is considered that the quays of London have had no extension since 1666, it cannot be wondered at that trade, * Jatkam's Political Economy of Inland Navigation. increased LONDON. 77 increased, and increasing, should demand those accommo dations which interest of such moment imperatively re quired, Mr. Brindley, Mr. Whitworth, Mr. Tatham, &c. made propositions for considerable improvements ; but they have all been hitherto unsuccessful.' Mr. Whitworth's estimata for completing the canal from Waltham Abbey to Moor fields, aniounted in 1773, to 52,495/. ; and the estimate for that from Mary-la-Bonne to Moorfields, 2.S,734/. Trifling sums adequate to the benefit proposed ! In 1785, Mr. Phillips proposed apian of great merit, for a communication from Norwich, Lynn, and Canibridge, with London; through the counties of Essex, Suffolk, Norfolk, &c. which at an expence of 146,262/. lOs. -vitould at thirty years purchase, have increased the national capital to the amazing amount of 13,163,625/. About the year 1798, Mr. Tatham formed a grand plan tff insulation in seven divisons. The first division extended from the. grand bason. at Paddingtp'n to Hackney, which he estimated at 32,348/. \6s. 3d. The second division from Hackney to Limehouse, estimated at, 14,730/. The third division from Paddington through Hyde Park to the Thames atRanekghj estimated at 19,928/. 1 5 j.. Fourth division from the Paddington canal at Kensall Green, to the Thames op posite Battersea, estiinated at 26,750/. Fifth division from Mary-la-Bonne park, a lateral cut to Sommers Town, and thence through the Duke of Bedford's grounds to the lower side of Gray's Inn Lane ; from which a small canal might be extended to Hackney, by help of rail-ways and machinery; Sixth division from York Place Battersea,, to the Goat's Head, public house, below Nine Elms, estimated at 9,675/. Seventh division, from Nine Elms to the Thames at Greenland Dockj estimated at 17,775/. making altogether a total cost of 120,000/. These modes of improvement having, however, not as yet been put in practice, though so excellent in theory ; we proceed to state what has actually been carried into exe- eutioni ' . . . YoL. L No, 31. L Grand LONDON. GraNd junction canal. — This navigation joins tbe Ox* ford canal at Braunston, in Northamptonshire, on the bor ders of Warwickshire, the whole bearing nearly north- we^ by south-east. * From Braunston, after passing a tunnel, its course is southerly between Welton and Daventry, with a cut of one mile and a half to the latter place. Then leav ing Long Buckley to the left, it passes through Weedon, by Lower Heyford, Bugbrook, to Gayton, where the cut five miles long branches off to Northampton. From Gayton it passes Blisworth, whence through a tunnel it reaches Stoke, passes Grafton and Cosgrove, a little below which a branch of one mile and a half goes to Stoney Stratford ; below this junc tion, it crosses the river Ouse, and bending eastward, passes Great' Dinford, and is distant about a mile from Newport Pagndl ; its course is again south, and passes Little and Great Wolston, Woughton, Simpson, through the town of Fenny Stratford, by .Stoke Hammond, Soulbury, Linslade, Leighton Buzzard^ Marsworth, Ivinghoe, Pittleshorn, Triiig, distant one mile and a half, Aldbury, Northchurch, close to Berkhamsted, Hemel Hempsted, distant about a mile, and King's Langley ; after which, passing a small tunnel, it goes by Grove Park and Cashiobury Park, and arrives at Rick- mansworth, about a mile before which, a branch of two miles goes to Watford ; from Rickmansworth it goes to Ux- bride, running parallel with the river Coin, which it crosses several times ; from Uxbridge it passes Cowley and Hil- lingdon, to the west ; and Drayton, Harlington, Cranford Park, Norwood and Osterley Park, to the east ; where, in tersecting the river Brent, it falls into the Thames between Brentford and Sion House ; completing a course of ninety miles, passing one hundred and twenty-one locks, with seven hundred and ninety-six feet lockage ; and going through three tunnds. The various rates of tonnage on this canal, ire so reasonable, as proves the necessity as well as utility of iuch undertakings. Paddington canal.— .The Paddington Canal is a branch ofthe Grand Junction Canal, having its confluence there with at a place called South Field, near Bull Bridge Brook, near LONDON. ' 1<) near Southall ; this brook empties into the river Coin, at the powder mills, upon the road from Staines to Brentford. From the Grand Junction Canal, which communicates be tween the river Thames at Brentford, and the Oxford canal near Braunston, a distance of ninety miles, one furlong, three chains, and sixty links, and thereby not only unites, the great commercial interests of Bristol, Chester, Liver pool, Preston, Lancaster, and Hull, with those of London, but opens avenues also to the metropolis from every part of the kingdom, and particularly from the towns of Daventry, Northampton, Buckingham, Aylesbury, Wendover, and St. Alban's, vfhich have already availed themselves of lateral cuts, to this great line of general intercourse ; this canal to Paddington x)f about fourteen miles in length upon one continued level, forms one of the most interesting and use ful designs which has ever been executed in an equal space of country; for by this facility of transfer, the uncertainties of river-transportation are avoided, in respect to winds, tides, and a thousand casualties and impediments; commerce will receive the means of dispatch, punctuality, and multiplied resources ; water-ways will be opened between town and country residences, while the pleasure-boats and party ex cursions of the city alone will contribute to promote the health and amusement of its numerous inhabitants, and bid fair to remunera,te largely to its proprietors, independent of commercial relations. i The Grand Junction Canal Company are empowered to piake a cut from the town of Buckingham to join the branch of the canal at Old Stratford ; also a cut from the town of Aylesbury, to join the canal at Marsworth, which is about two miles above Tring. And also to make navigable the cut or feeder from the town of Wendover, to join the canal at Bulbourne ; which is about one mile above'Tring; with all the powers for making the same granted by the prepedih'g act. Basingstoke canal.— This canal begins at Basingstoke, ' ¦fi-om the little river Loddon, and at a place called Newman- spi'ings, by the village of Basing ; thence it was intended L 2 to 80 LONDON. to pass across the road at Newham, and to take a sharp turn round Tilney Hall and Park, almost back again to near the town of Odiham ; but has now been carried straight by a tunnel into the little river called Deepford; whence it pro^ ceeds round Dogmersfield Park to near Grookham, straight along by Aldershot, over Dradbrook, vyhicb divides tha counties, and thence turns up to Colingley Moor, and re, turns by Purbright and Oak Farm, into the river Wey, near the little village of Westley. Its length, is rather more than? thirty-seven miles, with a fall of one hundred and ninety- five feet in the last fifteen miles, viz. from Dradbrook ; thei other part, of twenty-two miles, is upon a level. There i^ a collateral branch over Hook Common to Turgis Green, of six miles, and level. ¦_ This canal promises to be of great public utility, as it isi intended to hecarried on to join the navigation at Winches ter, which falls into the sea at Southampton, whereby it wiU. furnish an easy conveyance to the London market, and tp, the public dock yards for vast quantities of timber, which a^, this time lie useless in the country for want of such con-, veyance. Croydon canal. — iThe beginning of the digging, at pre., sent in hand, is about one hundred yards below the Deptford,, and Greenwich road, under whichit is intended to pass by a bridge, about five furlongs from Deptford town's-end. This part of the cutting is in a reddish-yellow claj', and, the same continues, across the road, and up the close for a small distance, towards Plow Garlick Hill, then a thin stra-, tum of thin broken oyster-like shells, are to be seen crop-, ping out, in the nevy cutting ; above this, a thick stratum of clay occurs, of nearly the same kind ; then a thick stratum. of very dark blue clay is seen, interspersed with a few small, specimens of pyritic wood, and plenty of selcrite. Some of the crystals of these are very well formed, and beautifully embedded in each other. One single rhomboidal crystal, obtained from the cutting in this place, weighed near a pound. Upon this blue and seleritic clay, eight or ten feet, thiot of a reddish clay occurs, forming the top of the emi nence, I^ONDON. at pence, called Plow.;Garlick Jlill ; from the top of which, the ground declines towards the south east, and the canal pursues its levql by a course nearly thereon, across a larg^ field, s^nd through an old i^pd wide lane, on the east side of ^hich there is a small old wooden cott?ige. Shortly aftey passing this cottage, the ground begins to rise up towards Brackley Green, and the first thing observable in the newly put banks, isa very curious stratpni, of a yard' thick, of more, consisting entirely of small bivalve shells, and lopg ^lender screw shells : these are in very good preservation ; but the greater part pf then^ are broken. Most of the whole \)ivalves have the two shdls adhering together, and closed. Some thin veins of these broken shells exhibit a beautiful pxampleof the process of nature, in the formation of lime stone ; and several lumps, and although no harder than gin* gerbread, ha,y^ the appearance and fructure of compact shelly lime-stone, so exactly, that, in a cabinet, where it c;o,uld be seen, but not touched, it might deceive almost every one, in thinking it to be real stone. For eighty or one hundred yards further, the ibanks of the canal are almost entirely formed of these shells, and through which, as well as the stratum itself, the water will, hereafter, leak, in large quantities, if this part of the canal is not most carefully lined with puddle. In ascending the hill, it appears that a stcafum of reddish coarse sand, of several feet thick, crops put above these shdls ; then a clay of considerable thickness is seen, and then a slight spring of mineral water, very highly charged vvith iron, as appears by ochry deposit : this was apprehended to proceed from a layer of ludits hel- mantii; but, owing to an old pond, through which the canal has been here dug, and which has sp completely slipped in, the truth of this could not be ascertained. This old pond had a considerable thickness of peat formed in its bottom ; a,nd the same w as observed in another old pond, in the clay, a few yards higher up the hill ; but there was no appearance of ochry water. Above this clay is a stratum of very fine clay, with the appearance and fructure, when dry, of Fuller's earth, but abounding with minute and shining specks of mica. »2 LONDON. mica. Above this micacious clay, there is a thick stratunt ef ydlow loamy day, or brick earth. This thick stratum of yellow clay is succeeded by two layers, one about a yard above the other, of large and curious Indus helmantii, ot clay-ball, very compact, containing but few septana, and those mostly close filled with wax-coloured spar ; but, on the sides oif some of these sparry joints, but partly filled, pointed and small crystals were so thickly and uniformly set all over the surface, as to give the appearance of a rich piece of velvet. About five or six feet of a reddish crumbling clay succeeds upon these layers of ludus hehnantii, and this forms the surface of the land for many miles southward, as appears by the cutting of the canal, all the way from Brock- ley Green to the town of Sydenham ; for, a.lthough at this part, from being now filled with water, and in use, the clay-balls cannot be seen in the bottom of the canal, yet the new-made bricks are all the way scattered with their fragments, and sufficiently prove their regularity and con tinuance. This canal is intended for conveying bricks, timber, and ©ther materials for the works, from within a few miles of the town of Croydon, to Brockley Green. On Sydenham Com mon, near the London road, is a new reservoir, whose head has lately been made up so as to contain ten or fifteen acres extent of water, which is brought by a ditch or car'riage'out of the adjoining valley, that crosses the road to town. After passing Sydenham Common, on the bank of tbe canal, tor- wards Deptford, *he same enters a large wood, and passes it for near three quarters of a mile, presenting the most rich and delightful scenery, with fine views, at intervals^ of the new and degant houses on Forest Hill, th^t rise directly up from the canal. Several of the paddocks belonging to these houses, are now extended down to the canal ; and fancy boat-houses and pleasure-houses have been built on its banks', so as to render a walk along it truly delightful. At the ter mination of this wood, is a curious lock, that can be used as a double fall or a single one, according as the supply of water, or expedition of the trade, may render most advisable ; 3 it LONDON. 85 it consists of two locks, so joined together, that the middle gates, which are of great height, answer for both of the locks. After descending several locks of the common con struction, but well built and exceedingly water-ti"-ht we arrive at the present termination of the water, near Brockley Green ; then, in descending the hill, several locks and lengths of the canal are nearly finished, and other locks further on, are in every stage of their progress, from the laying of the foundations, tothe completion ofthe walls; a sight truly gratifying to any one who is curious in works of this sort. The canal is in less forwardness, during the re mainder of the descent of the hill, from Brockley ; at the bottom of this, and forwards, to near the top of Plow- Garlick Hill, the canal is nearly finished. On the top of this hill, the canal is to be cut a great depth, a part only of which is yet performed. Descending towards the Green wich road, several other locks are in hand, some of the foundations of which are just laid, and others have their walls almost built ; the deep cutting, and immense banks of clay which have been wheeled out on the slope of this hill, have a very singular appearance. The Croydon canal, is intended to enter the Grand Surrey canal, about a mile below the Greenwich road, and from that place, to Wilkinson's gun wharf at Rotherhithe, where ifc will join the river Thames. This canal is nearly completed, and ready for filling, having two very large bridges over it : but the other way, towards Vauxhall Creek, by Cumberland Gardens, where it is intended to connect again with the Thames, the works seem at a total stand. For about three quarters of a mile west of Peckham Gap, where it is to cross the 'Greenwich road, this canal was begun, and seemed very fast proceeding, about the year 1803, but sinqe that period, not the least progress is to be discerned in the digging. The completion of this canal would, doubtless, prove of tbe usmost advantage to this low and neglected environ of the metropolis^ but it is not so clear that the trade thereon will «4 LONDON. will be sufficient to make an immediate return to the pro prietors of the canal ; though, ultimately, this will certainly be the case, when the lands between Peckham and the river Thames are improved, and more built upon, as must happen in a few years after it is completed, from the facility which it will give to trade; The navigation by the river Lea, and the cut denominated Bow Creek, will be mentioned under Limehouse parish. When Guthrie compiled his Commercial Grairimar, he stated that the city contained 150',000 dwelling houses, and that the annual consumption of provision was as follows : Black cattle 98,244 Sheep and lambs - - <- - - 711,123 Calves ------- 194,760 Swine ------- 186,932 Pigs _ _ - - , - - - 52,000 Poultry and wild fowl, innumerable. , Mackarel sold at Billingsgate - - - 1,710,000 Oysters, in bushels ----- 115,536 Small boats of cod, haddock, whiting, &c. over and above those brought by land car riage, and great quantities of river and salt fish 1,398 Butter, in pounds weight, about - - 16,000,000 Cheese, ditto, about - - - - 20,000,000 Gallons of milk -....- 7,000,000 .Strong beer, in barrels - - - - 1,172,494 Small ditto, ditto - - - - - 798,495 Foreign wines, in tuns - - _ - 3,044 Gallons of rum, brandy, and other distilled waters, above ----- 11,000,000 Candles, by pound weight, above - - 1 1 ,000,009 In the consumption of these articles, the city must evi dently feel a considerable benefit from the cheapening of conveyance, which inland canals must contribute to reduce: and from the greater abundance of them which a circular canal would admit, to aid the former supplies of every market LONDON. 85 market throughout the suburbs. " But," continues Mr. Tatham, " there are advantages "accruing to household ac- ¦Commodation, which we venture to particularize more im mediately. " The approach of canals must tend to supply the markets with new resources from many parts of the countrj', which a dependance on land-carriage has hitherto precluded alto gether, and to increase the quantity from those places which have been accustomed to furnish supplies by means of animal strength. " 2. By constructing the canal with valves, or cocks, for discharging the surplus depth of water in the time of land floods, the drier soils may be irrigated and refreshed ; while those in a watery condition may be drained by the canal : in both instances the state of culture will be improved, and the markets stocked with proportionate vegetables ; and also to guard by this means against fire, is, however, a common concern. " The inhabitants of the metropolis are already estimated- at one miUion ; and it is not to be understood, or perhaps to be wished, that the proposed canals should have an imme. diate tendency to increase them. " But the healthiness of the city will partake of advan tages in the following considerations : " I. By relieving the crowded parts of the town, and the avoidance of filth. " 2.' By a more free communication of air through the heretofore stifled and lumbered. " 3. By the circulatipn of water, and its inseparable current of air, round the canal. *' 4. By an additional supply of water, for the purpose ¦ of cleansing the streets and seWers, independent of the.,pre- existing cuHnary water-works. " .*. By a more ample drainage and frequent irrigation of the surrounding country ; through which means a more re gular atmosphere will be obtained. " 6. By the introduction of pleasure-hoats, for the airing and amusement of the citizens. Vol. IL No. 31. M " 7. By 86 LONDON. " 7. By the construction of fountains of pleasure, with filtrating and ventilating powers. " 8. By the extension of shady walks, fitting for pedesi. trian excursions upon the banks ofthe canal. " The promotion of health is so obvious a result, from the particulars enumerated, that it would be futile to dweH upon them. " There are two plans for ways and means, which I beg leave to suggest : the first is, that which was adopted by the city of London, in regard to the towing path from Putney to Staines, and which was proposed by Mr. Sharp for the Mary- la-Bonne and Waltham Abbey canals ; so that all might re main a free navigation after, the money loaned was refunded by a moderate toll. The other is to undertake the business at national charge ; either making it a frqe operation, so that the national resources may become strengthened through its encouragements to popular industry; or appropriating a moderate toll to the aid of the revenue, subject to the future discretion of parliament, and the preference to be governed by the choice of those in authority." Mr, Tatham proceeds to state, that five hundred hands would complete the insulation in one year ; and adds by way of conclusion, " that London can set hands to work or let , it alone at pleasure, without incurring the intermediate waste of time and expence ; London can supply hands ready on the spot, while other canals have them to collect together' from distant parts of the country ; London can accommo- date them near their work, while others lose their time in going off and on ; London can supply any number of hands, while others are restrained by limited circumstances : but, London can do still more ; for she has the first example, per haps, in history, where a circular canal of twenty miles extent, round so populous a dty, afforded the means of economy, by working small parties on such an extensive space; yet, nevertheless, compactly under effectual super.. intendance, control, and command." TOPOGRAPHY. 87 TOPOGRAPHY OF LONDON. HITHERTO, we trust, we have given a satisfactory ac count of the history and government of London. Its immunities have been ascertained, and other particulars ne cessary to illustrate the subject have been deduced, with as little prolixity as possible. We now attempt the description of the various parts of this extensive metropolis, in a man ner Which we hope will meet approbation. It is not intended to abide by hear-say information ; actual inspection alone shall satisfy our inquiry ; and to do this in the most eligible manner, we shall divide^ our percimbulation into various routs, commencing at some principal point of direction, so as to give information without fatigue. As, therefore, this precludes the formality of describing the several parishes and buildings in their appropriat^wards, we propose a summary account of those twenty-five divi sions ofthe city with their boundaries.. PoRtsoKEN Ward. The origin of this ward has been already described in the early part of this History *. It is situated entirely without Aldgate, and contains all White- chapel to the Bars, Pettycoat Lane, Houndsditch, and the Minories ; being bounded on the east by the parishes of Spital Fields, and Whitechapel ; on the south by Tower Hill; nn the west by Aldgate along the antient city wall, and on the north by Bishopsgate ward: The ward is divided into the five following precincts : Hountlsditch, High Street, the Bars, Tower Hill, and Convent Garden, within the parishes of St. Botolph, and Trinity Minories. The government is * Vol. I. p. Bl. Thi? word Portsokea, implies " a franchis».at ths gate," M 2 vested 88 LONDON. vested in an alderman, five common council men *, five con stables, nineteen inquestmen, and a ward beadle. Among those gentlemen who have borne the office of aldermen, were the following emindrt ch^iracters. Sir John Cass, Humphrey Parsons, esquire. Sir William Calvert, and the right ho nourable Thomas Hariey. The present aldernian is James Shaw, esquire. Tower Street Ward, the first ward on the south-east part of thecity, extends from the Tower to the middle of the way between Great Dice Key and Sniart's Key, and from the west corner of Tower Dock, to within seventy-feet of the north end of Rood Lane, and is divided into the fol- lowing twelve precincts ; Dolphin, Minchin Lane, Salutation, Rood, Dice Key, Ralph's Key, Bear Key, Petty Wales, Rose, Seetjiing Lane, Mark Lane, and Angel, mostly in the parishes of AUhallows Barking, St. Olave, Hart Street, and St. Dun- stan in the East. Its government is by an alderman, twdve common council men, twelve constables, thirteen, inquest men, and a ward beadle. Among its eminent men have been Sir Thomas Chitty, Samuel Turner, esquire, and Hugh Smith, esquire, M. D.— -Sir William Curtis, bart. one of the representatives for the city in parhament, is the present al-. derman. Aldgate Ward, takes its name from the antient eastern, gate of the city. This ward extends from Aldgate t^ Lime Street, in Leadenball Street, comprising all the space of ground from Bevis Marks and Shoemaker Bow to Tower Hill, and including Poor Jewry Lane, Crutched Frjars, . London Street, Woodroffe Lane, &c. to Ironmonger's Hall, Fenchurch Street. It contains seven precincts, mostly in the parishes of St. James, Duke's Place, St, Catherine. Cree Church, St. Andrew Undershaft, St. Catharine, Colenoan. The government consists of an alderman, six common coun cil men, six constables, twenty inquest men, beside, the officers belonging to St, James, Duke's Place, and a ward,. beadle. It is a curious circumstance, that this ward has af- * From among these the aldermen select their deputies. forded LONDON. 89 forded only four lord mayors within the last century. Harvey Christian Combe, esquire, member of parliament for the city, is the present alderman. Lime Street Ward. Stow says, that the street take* its name from making or selling of Lime there ; this may be probable, but if we take the Saxon Lim, dirty, the latter explanation is more than probable ; there being no brook or water carriage for lime from this place to the Thames, except Langbourne, which continued a muddy course to Lombard Street, Sherebourne &c. This ward con- tans four precincts ; and it is observable, that it has no church or complete street, though it runs through several parishes. It is governed by an alderman, four common council men, four constables, two scavengers, tliirteen in quest men, and a ward beadle. During the last century. Lime Street ward gave to the city four lord mayors. The present alderman is John Prinsep, esquire, M. P. Bishopsgate Ward. The first gate which stood here, and whence the ward derives its name, was supposed to have been first either constructed by bishop Erkenwald, or more probably by bishop William, the Norman, who was in other respects a great benefactor to the city. This ward is bounded on the south by Langbourn ward ; on the west by that of Broad Street ; on the east by Aldgate, Portsoken, and the Tower liberty ; and on the north by Shoreditch ; extending from Spital Square, to the pump at the corner of Threadneedle Street, and winding by the west corner of Leadenball, down Gracechurch Street, to the south-west corner of Fenchurch Street. The ward is divided into two parts ; Bishopsgate Within comprizes the five precincts of AUhallows, St. Peter, St. Martin Outwich, St. Helen, and St. Etbelburga: Bishopsgate Without is divided into four ' precincts. The government is by an alderman, fourteen common council men, two of whom are alderman's deputies, seven constables, thirteen inquest men, and two ward beadles. Every alderman, except two, has been lord mayor, during the last century. The present alderman is Sir Richard Carr Glyn, bart. Broas 90 L0N1)0N. Broad Street Ward, is divided into ten precincts, St. Mildred and Wodchurch, St. Christopher, St. Bartholomew Upper, St. Barthdomew Lpwer, St. Margaret, Lothbury,- St. Bennet Fink, St. Martin Outwich,. St. Peter-le-Poor, and Alhallows, London Wall, taking in great part of those several parishes. It is governed by an alderman, ten com mon council men, ten constables, thirteen inquest men, and a ward beadle. Among the eminent persons who have borne the office of aldermen during the last century, were Sir Gerard Conyers, Sir Thomas Rawlinson, Benjamin Hopkins, esquire, and Richard Clark, esquire ; the latter gentlemen both chamberlains of the city. The present alderman is John Perring, esquire. CoRNHiLL Ward, in four precincts, is governed by an alderman, six comm on conn cil men, four constables, sixteen inquest men, and a ward beadle. Among the most eminent characters Avho have held the office of aldermen, are Sir John Houblon, and William Pickett, esquire. The present al derman is Charles Flower, esquire. Langbourn Ward, so called, from a brook which an-' tiently yan through Fenchurch Street, is divided into twelve precincts, St. Mary Woolnoth North, St. Mary Woolnoth South, Nicholas "Lane, Birchin Lane, Lombard Street, Cle ment's Lane, AUhallows, Lombard Street, St. Bennet, Grace church Street, St. Dionis Backchurch, St. Gabriel, and All- hallows Staining. It is governed by an alderman, ten common council men, twelve constables, sixteen inquest men, and a ward beadle. The following eminent characters have been aldermen. Sir John Fleet, Sir Peter Delme, Sir Henry Hankey, Sir Joseph Hankey, and John Sawbridge, esquire. The present alderman is Sir John Eamer, knt. Billingsgate Ward. The gate whence this ward takes its name, is supposed by fabulists to have received its deno mination from a suppositious king named Belin. We do not take upon us to be deeply versed in etymology ; but upon looking into Junius's Etymologicum Anghcanum, under the word Bele, he tells us, Scotis est signwm ignc datum e nave pr^torid, " among the Scots, the Bele is a 3 signal LONDON. 91 9ignal by fire given from, the ship^s cabin." lyiay we not, therefore, risk an opinion, that The Beling Gate, was that where ships on their arrival, or during their stay, inthe night,, exhibited the signal by fire ? This ward contains part of Thames Street, and Little East- cheap, which lie in the same direction, besides the interven ing streets ; a considerable part of Rood Lane, and Philpot Lane. It is divided into the twelve precincts of St.iMary at Hill, Smart's Key, Billingsgate, Love Lane, the three precincts of St. Botolph, Billingsgate, the two precincts of St. Andrew Hubbard, the precinct of St. George, Botolph Lane, Pudding Lane, and Rood Lane. The government consists of an alderman, ten common council men, eleven constables, fourteen inquest men, and a ward bfeadlg. The eminent characters who have been aldermen, vyere Sir William Ash- hurst, William Beckford, esquire, and Richard Oliver, esquire. The present alderman is Sir William ' Leighton, knt. Bridge Ward Within. This ward commences at the end of London Bridge, whence it extends northward, up Gracechurch Street, along Thames Street, to New Key, taking in part of Martin's Lane, St. Michael's or Miles's Lane, and Crooked Lane, with all' the streets and alleys virithin that circuit. It is divided into the fourteen following precincts, the three of London Bridge, three in Thames Street, three in New Fish Street, the Upper and Lower precincts of St. Leonard Eastcheap, the upper precincts of St. Bennet, Gracechurch, and AUhallows, Lombard Street. It is governed by an alderman, fifteen common council men, fourteen constables, fifteen inquest men, and a ward beadle. The late Sir James Sanderson, was the only magistrate of eminence, that presided over this ward. The present alder man is Sii: Matthew Bloxam, knt. M. P. Candlewick Street Ward took its name from a street caUed Candle- Wick, inhabited by cancUewrights in wax and taUow; which, during the time of Popish superstition, was a very thriving occupation . The principal streets are East- cheap, part of Canon Street, and part of Martin's Lane. The 92 , LONDON. The ward is divided into the seven precincts of St. Mary Abchurch, St. Lawrence Poultney, St. Martin Orgar, St. Clement, Eastcheap, St. Leonard, Eastcheap, and the east and west precincts of St. Michael, under the direcrion of an alderman, eight common council men, seven constables, thir teen inquest men, and a ward beadle. The eminent alder man of this ward during the last century, was Sir CharieS AsgiU, bart. The present alderman is Peter Perchard, esquire. Walbrook Ward takes its name from an antient rivulet which had a passage through the city wall, between Bishops gate and Moorgate, and emptied itself into the Thames at Dowgate*. The principal streets in this ward are Wal brook, Canon Street on both sides, from Green Lettice Lane to Abchurch Lane ; the east end of Bucklfersbury ; St. Swithin's Lane, almost as far as Bearbinder Lane, a small part of Lombard Street, and nearly all Bearbinder Lane, It is divided into the following seven precincts, the two of St. Swithin, St. Mary Wodchurch, St. Stephen, Walbrook, St. John Baptist, St. Mary Bothaw, and St. Mary Abchurch, The government of the ward is entrusted to the care of an alderman, eight common council men, seven constables, thirteen inquest men, and a ward beadle. Among the alder men during the last century, were the following emment persons, Sir John Moore, and Sir Gilbert Heathcote. The present alderman is Thomas Rowcroft, esquire. , Dowgate Ward. According to Stow, this was called Dowgate, from its descent, and was only a principal key for ships and vessels, and for loading and landing goods, &c. other authors, however, with great probabihty contend, that the trajectus or ferry of the Watling Street, one of the four great military ways, was at Dowgate. This ward extends from Martin's Lane to Cloak Lane, and thence to the Thames; • The loss of this rivulet was o\)ving to the many bridges covered with houses built over it, which increased to such a degree, as to be formed into streets, so that the channel having been used as a common sewer, was wholly arched over^ and totally obscured by those streets. and LONDON; 9^ and is divided into eight precincts, under the administration of an alderman, eight common council men, eight constables, fifteen inquest men, and a ward beadle. Among the eminent persons who have borne the office of alderman, are to be re corded Sir Robert Beddingfield, Sir Francis Forbes, Sir John Barnard, Sir Richard Glyn, and Sir Walter Rawlinson. The present alderman is Paul Le Mesurier, esquire. These wards are on the east side of Walbrook. The wards on the west side are, Vintry Ward. " The Vintry was a part of the bank of the river Thames," says Stow, "where merchants of Bourdeaux craned their wines out of lighters and other vessels, and there landed and made sale of them, within forty days after, until the 28th of Ed ward I. at which time the said merchants complained, that they could not sell their wines, paying poundage, neither hire houses or cellars to lay them in ; and it was redressed by virtue of the king's writ, directed to the mayor and sheriffs of London, dated at Caerlaverock, near Carlisle : since which time, many fair and large houses with vaults and cellars for stowage of wines, lodging of wines, and lodgings of the Bourdeaux merchants, have been buUt, in the place where before were cooks houses : for Fitz-Stephen, in the reign of Henry II, writeth, that upon the river side, between the wine in ships, and the whie to be sold in taverns, was a com mon cookery, or cooks row, &c. whereby it appears, that in those days, and till of late, every man lived by his own professed trade, not any one interrupting another ; the cooks dressed meat, and sold no wine ; and the vintner sold wine, and dressed no meat for sale." The principal streets, &c. in this ward, are a part of Thames Street, from Little Elbow , Lane to Townsend Lane ; a part of Queen Street, Great St. Thomas Apostle, Garlick Hill, with Great and Little Elbow Lanes, &c. which are comprized in nine precincts, under the government of an alderman, nine common council men, nine constables, thirteen inquest men, and a ward beadle. The eminent aldermen of this ward were Sir Thomas Pil kington, Sir Thomas Abney, Sir John Eyles, Edward Gib- VoL. IL No. 31. N bon. H LONDON. bon, esquire. Sir Crisp Gascoyne, and Bariow Trecothick, esquire. The present alderman is Nathaniel Newnham, esquire. ,Cordwainers Ward. The name Cordwainer is derived from those who were shoemakers, curriers, or workers of leather*, who dwelt in Soper Lane, Corney Street, and the neighbourhood. The principal streets in this ward are Bow Lane, Queen Street, Budge Row, Little St. Thomas Apostle, Pancras Lane, part of Watling Street, and Basing Lane, comprized within the following eight precincts of St. Mary Aldermary, Upper and Lower ; AUhallows, Bread Street, St. Mary-le-Bow, St. Antholin, Uppel and Lower ; the pre cinct of St. Pancras, St. Bennet Sherehog and St. John, and that of St. Thomas the Apostle, and Trinity, under the govern ment of an alderman, eight common council men, eight con stables, fourteen inquest men, and a ward beadle. Eminent persons who have borne the office of aldermen during the last century, were Sir Robert Geffery, George Hayley, esquire, and Sir Bernard Turner. The present alderman is Sir Brook Watson, bart. Cheap Ward, takes its name from the Saxon word cAepf, a market ; this market, from its situation, was denominated West Chepe, to distinguish it from the other market be tween Candlewick Street and Tower Street, denominated East Chepe. This ward occupies the center of the city, and contains the following principal streets, Bucklersbury, north side of Pancras Lane, part of Queen Street, the Poultry, south end of the Old Jewry, Ironmonger Lane, King Street, Iiawrence Lane, east end of Cheapside, as far as the mid- Vf-dy between the paved passage into Honey Lane Market and Milk Street, and part of Catcaton Street, comprized in • Cordiuane is more properly derived from the Spanish Cordouan, as Morocco from the Moors. The Saracens were also denominated Cor- douans, in rhe middle ages, because thecity of Cordona was tlie metro polis of their kingdom. It is supposed that the art of shofi-making was introduced from that people, and therefore the origin Cordouaner or Bordiuainer, the LONDON. 95 the nine following precincts, St. Mary-le-Bow, AUhallows Honey Lane, St. Lawrence Cateaton Street, St. Martin Ironmonger Lane, St. Mary Colechurch, St. Mildred Poultry, St. Stephen and St. Bennet, and St. Pancras Soper Lane. It is governed by an alderman, twelve common council men, eleven constables, thirteen inquest men, and a ward beadle. Several eminent characters have been aldermen of this ward during the preceding century. Sir Robert Clayton, Sir Wil liam Humphreys, John Kirkman, esquire, William Crich- ton, esquire, and John Boydell, esquire. The present al derman is Josiah Boydell, esquire. Coleman Street Ward extends from the grating by St. Margaret Lothbury, to the south side of Ironmonger Lane > but no farther than the south-west corner of BasinghaU Street, its extension north and south is from Moorgate to the gar den of Grocer's Hall, Poultry. It is divided into six pre cincts, the four of St._ Stephen, St. Olave Jewry, and St. Margaret Lothbury, under the government of 5n alderman, six common council men, six constables, thirteen inquest men, and a ward beadle. The distinguished aldermen dur ing the last century, were Sir James Bateman, Robert Alsop, esquire, and Robert Peckham, esquire. The present alder man is Richard Lea, esquire. Bassishaw Ward corruptly so called, from Basing^s- haugh or HaU, which will be duly described, is the smallest ward in the city, being wholly comprized in the two precincts, of BasinghaU Street, and is governed by an alderman, four common council men, three constables, seventeen inquest men, and a ward beadle. Among its eminent magistrates were Sir John Parsons, Sir Thomas Lombe, and William Baker, esquire. The present alderman is Claudian Stephen Hunter, esquire. Cripplegate Ward. The gate whence this ward takes it name, is of very great antiquity ; but that it was so called from the circumstance of several cripples being restored to the use of their limbs, when the martyred body of king Edmund was brought through it to London, is doubtful. The church of St. Giles was not founded till about the year 1090, N 2 and 96 LONDON. and John Lydgate did not live till many centuries after Alfune, the first builder of the church ; he might therefore with propriety have called the gate Cripplegate in his time. St. Giles the abbot, among his other excellencies, was a phy sician, and wrote a Treatise on the Palsy, no wonder then that he was implored by cripples ; nor at the vulgar term, " Hop ping Giles." Several religious foundations for lepers, &c. Were dedicated to this saint ; and hence certainly the true origin of Cripplegate. This ward is divided into two parts, within and without the wall. Cripplegate Within, consists of nine precincts, St. Lawrence, St. Mary Magdalen Milk Street, St. Peter, St. Michael Wood Street, St. John Zachary, St. Alban, Wood Street, St. Olave Silver Street, St. Alphage, and Al- . dermanbury. Cripplegate Without, is comprized in four precincts, Red Cross Sti-eet, White Cross Street, Fore Street, and Grub Street, under the government of an alderman, twdve common council men, thirteen constables, thirty-four inquest men, and two beadles. Eminent characters who have been aldermen were. Sir Thomas Stampe, Sir William Stewart, Sir John WiUiams, John Blachford, esquire. Sir John Cartwright, and Sir J^mes Esdaile, The - present al derman is Sir William Staines. Aldersgate Ward. The gate, whiph formerly stood at the south end of the Castle and Falcon Inn, was of great antiquity, as being one of the first four gates of the city ; this was Stow's opinion, and though it is disputed by Mait- land, we join Stow in saying, that as this was the principal northern entrance into the city, it merited the antiquity it claimed. This ward is also divided into two districts ; Al dersgate ward Within, consists of the four following pre cincts, St. Leonard Foster Lane, St. John Zachary, St. Mary Staining, and St. Anne. Aldersgate ward Without, consists of four precincts, all in the parish of St. Botolph. It is governed by an alderman, eight common council men^ eight constables, fourteen inquest men, and two ward beadles. Epiinent aldermen in the last century were Sir James Hou blon, Sir Sam«el Garrard, WjUiam Benn, esqujre, George ¦5 Nelson, LONDON. S7 Nelson, esquire, and Sir Thomas Hallifax. The present al derman is Sh- John William A/fderson, bart. one of the representatives in parliament forthe city. Faringdon Ward Within. This vast tract of ground which includes the two wards of Faringdon, took its name from WiUiam Farendon, alderman and goldsmith, who pur chased it of Ralph le Feure, in the year 1 279 ; and by its continuance in that family for a long space of time, took the family name which it still retains. The extent of this ward is best known by its precincts, which are as follow: St. Peter, St. Matthew, Goldsmiths Row, Sadlers Hall, Gutter Lane, St. Austin, St. Michael le Quern North and South, St. Faith Paternoster Row, Ditto St. Paul's Church Yard, north and south precinct of St. Martin Ludgate, first and second precincts of Christ Church, St. Ewin, St. Se pulchre, Monkwell, and St.- Anne Blackfriars. The govern ment is by an alderman, seventeen common council men, nineteen constables, seventeen inquest men, and two ward beadles. Aldermen of eminence were, Sir Patience Ward, Sir Richard Brocas, and WiUiam Bridgen, esquire. The present alderman is Thomas Smith, esquire. Bread Street Ward, so called, from a bread market formerly kept in that street, contains part of Watling Street, Bread Street, Friday Street, Distaff Lane, part of Basing Lane, with the east side of the Old Change, from the corner of St. Austin's Church to Old Fi.A Street, and the north side of Old Fish Street and Trinity Lane, with that part of the south side of Cheapside, between Friday Street and Bow Church, comprized in thirteen precincts, under the govern- meut of an alderman, twelve common council men, thirteen constables, thirteen inquest men, and a ward beadle. Several eminent characters have been aldermen of this ward. Sir Henry Tulse, Sir Edward Clark, Sir Richard Hoare, Sir Robert Baylis, Sir Stephen Theodore Jansen, and Brass Crosby, esquire. The present alderman is John Ainsley, esquire. Queenhithe Ward, named from a harbour for large hoats, lighters, barges, and even ships, which antiently an chored 99 LONDON. chored at that place, as the principal key for lading and un lading in the heart ofthe city, and for which dues were paid to tbe queens of England. The principal streets. and lanes in this ward are Queenhithe, a part of Thames Street, from Bennet's HiU to Towscnd's Lane, Lambert Hill, Five-foot Lane, Bread Street Hill, Hugging Lane, Little Trinity, and the south side of Great Trinity Lane, and Old Fi.sh Street, divided into nine precincts ; the ward is under the government of an alderman, si.K common council men, nine constables, thirteen inquest men, and a ward beadle. Among the eminent persons who have borne the office of aldermen, the foUowing are selected, Sir John Fryer, Marshe Dickenson, esquire, and Frederick Bull, esquire. The present alder man is Thomas Skinner, esquire. Castle Baynard Ward is so called from an antient castle which .formerly stood on the bank of the river, and of which an ample accbunt will be given. Its print;ipal streets are the south end of Thames Street, St. Peter's HiU, St. Bennet's HiU, Addle Hill, Knight Rider Street, Paul's Ch^in, Carter Lane, the east side of Creed Lane, and War wick Lane, divided into ten precincts, under the go vernment of an alderman, ten common council men, nine Constables, fourteen inquest men, and a ward beadle. The foUowing eminent persons were aldermen in the last century. Sir Thomas Rawlinson, John Barber, esquire, and Sir Ro bert Ladbroke. Tbe present alderman is Joshua Jonathan Smith, esquire. Faringdon Ward Without, is the fartliest west of the city liberty, and is bounded on the north by the Charter House, Clerkenwdl, and St. Andrew's parish without the freedom; on the west by Pickett Street, in St. Clement's parish, and High Holborn ; on the south by the river Thames ; and on the east by Faringdon Within, the precinct of St. Bartholomew, near Smithfidd, and Aldersgate ward. It is divided into fourteen precincts, being under the government of an alderman, sixteen common council men, twenty-three constables, forty-eight inquest men, and four ward beadles. Among the eminent aldermen of this ward were Sir Dudley North, Sir Francis Child, Sir Robert Child, Sir Francis Child, LONDON: 99 Child, Sir Richard Hoare, Sir Francis Gosling, and John Wilkes, esquire. The present alderman is Sir Charles Price, bart. one ofthe representatives of the city in parhament. Bridge Ward Without forms the twenty-sixth ward of 'the metropolis ; and comprizing the borough of Southwajrk, will be more fully treated of under that division. Present alderman Sir Watkin Lewes, Father of the City. PERAMBULATION L From the Royal Exchange;, ihroagh Coryihill, Leadenhall Street, Minories, lo Toicer Hill, thence through Thq,mes Street to London Bridge, Gracechurch Street, Little East Cheap, Tower Street to Crutched Friars, Fenchufch Street and Gracechurch Street to Corn- hill; comprizing great part of the wards of Cornhill, Lime Street, Aldgate, Portfoken, Tower, Bridge, Candlewick and Langbourn. WE now proceed to a more minute description of the metropolis, and in order that it may be more accurately de scribed, we shall divide the whole circuit into distinct per ambulations, so that no part of any consequence, can pos sibly be omitted. The point of direction in the city wiU be from the Royal Exchange; the city and liberty of West minster from Charing Cross ; South\vark from St. Margaret's Hill ; the various parishes-comprized within the buildings of the metropolis, extending from Shoreditch to Newington Butts, and from Limdiouse to Chelsea, will commence front the abutments at each of the' public streets ; and lastly the various towns and villages in the vicinity, to the extent of thirty miles distance. ' When marshal La Condamine first saw the pavement of the city of London, it is said that he fell upon his knees, and exclaimed, " God be praised ! this is a country in which foot-passengers pass for something !" In the spirit of such a sentiment, and in the hope that our labour may consummate every wi,sh, we boldly attempt an arduous task to ourselves, but to our readers, a fund of use- ful and in-strustive information. Th^ 100 LONDON. Thd Royal' ExcH.ANGE, being our point of direction to what is peculiarly denominated the City, as it were, a sun, whence every ray expands life and spirit to the remotest corner of the metropolis, the country, and the worid I— of course claims priority of description. ROYAL EXCHANGE. Mr. Malcolm, in his Londinium Redivivm, has observed, that " a commercial city, destitute of an Exchange, would • be thought as improper a. residence for merchants, as a parish without a church for that of religious people. Our ancestors judged otherwise, and the merchants of London traded for centiiries v/ithout a rallying point, or place where men of business might find each other at certain hours ; and where, abstracted from all other subjects, the conversation turned wholly upon profit and loss." So just an observation being premised, we are led to wonder why a place of commercial resort was not suggested long before the time of queen Elizabeth ; and that London, in this, as well as in other 'respects, did not rival other marts of commerce. It appears that so late as the year 1531 , the merchants met in Lombard Street, where they vcere exposed tothe open air and all inclemencies of the weather. Sir Richard Gresham, the king's merchant*, bdng then sheriff, considering the inconveniences » The origin of the title King's Merchant not being generally understood, an account of that honour and trust is subjoined : That this dignity was of early date, is deducible from the fact, that Wilham De La Pole, knight banneret, was King's Merchant in the 14th of Edward III, and that his son Michael De La Pole, earl of Suffolk, had the same honour from Richard II. The 'duties imposed by this office, are better understood hy the following documents from various autho rities : Charles V. emperor of Germany, being reduced to great distress by the unhappy expedition of Tunis, experienced a powerful succour in money from the Fuggers, a single family of merchants only, but at that time the most opulent and distinguished traders in his dominions. For the security of re-payment of those large sums, wherewith they had supplied LONDON. 101 inconveniences under which his feUow cidzens laboured, and willing to do all in his power to render them more comfort able, he wrote a letter to Sir Thomas Audley, lord privy seal, supplied the government, his Imperial majesty gave them written obli gations, under his royal hand and seal. To give a demonstration of their zeal to the interest of their country, and their inviolable attachment to the person of his majesty, those mer chants requested the emperor, as he was one day taking an airing by their house, to do them the honour of regaling him self, to which his ma jesty readily condescended. After the collation was over, they desired permission of tlie emperor to burn a faggot of cinnamon in the hall, where the entertainment was made, not only with intent to administer all they could to his majesty's delight, but to give further proof of their hearty affection to his person and government ; which they did by bund ling up the bonds of security they had taken for their money, with the --faggot, and set fire to them before the emperor's face. Mr. afterwards Sir Thomas Gresham, is another instance well de serving notice, as'it manifests how far it is in the power of merchants ta support government under the greatest emergency. Sir WiUiam Dansell having succee.ded Sir Richard Gresham as king's merchant to Edward VI. upon liis dismissal Mr. Thomas Gresham was put in his place; and it was his business to take up money of the mer chants of Antwerp. It seems that the mode by which that business had been formerly managed, was greatly to the prejudice of the crown of England, as well by giving. a very large interest for the money borrowed-, as other inconveniences, when the principal was not paid within the time of the contract. Mr. Gresham v/as sent to Antwerp on that ac count ; and the money, which had been taken up in his agency, not being paid at tbe time agreed on, gave him great uneasiiiess, his bu siness being then to get it prolonged. The method taken by the cre ditors in such cases, was to insist upon the king's purchasing jewels, or some other commodities, to a considerable value, as a consideratioti for. prolonging the debt, besides continuing the interest. A remarkable in stance of this is mentioned in the Journal of king Edward the VI_ which we shall here recite, from the original manuscript. " 1537. April 25th. A bargaine made with the Foulcare fbr aboute sixty thousand pounde, that in May and August should be paid. For the deferring of it. First, that the Faulcare should put it of for ten in the hundred. Secondly, that I shall buy twelve thousand marc waight, at six shillings sh' ounce, to be delivered at Antwerpe, and so conveyed over. Thirdly, I shall pay an hundred thousand crownes for a very faire juel of his, fewer rubies marvellous bige, an orient and great diamount, ,V0L. IL Np. 32. O 'and 102 LONDON. seal, acquainting him, " that there were certain houses in- that street belonging to Sir George Monoux, which if pur chased, a handsome house might be buUt on tbe ground ; and one great pearle." And in another minute, dated 1551, January 24th, it is said-, " Gresham was sent over into Flaunders to shew to the Fulker, to whom I ought money, that I would differ it ; or if I paid it, pay it in Englishe, to make them kepe up their French crownes, with which I minded to pay them." This way of proceeding, Gresham neither thought for the honour of his majesty, nor his Own credit, as his agent ; and therefore he proposed the following scheme to bring the. king wholly out of debt in two years. " In case the kipg and council. would assign him twelve or thirteen hundred pounds a week, to be se cretly received atone man's hands, that so it might be kept secret, he would so use that matter in the town of Antwerpe, that every day he would be seen to take up.in his own name two hundred pounds ster ling by exchange, which would amount in one year to seventy-two thousand pounds. And thus, doing, it should not be perceived, nor administer occasion to make the exchange fall. He projected also a great benefit to the king, if all the lead were in the king's hands, and. the king to make a staple thereof, and to make a proclamation, or to shut up the Custom House, that none should convey out ofthe land any parcels of lead for five years ; whereby the king might cause it to rise, and feed them at Antwerp from time to time, as they should have need thereof, by which means he might keep his money within his realms, and bring himself out of the debts which his father ^nd the late duke of- Somerset had brought him into." Although the exchange was then at sixteen shillings, Mr. Gresham so wisely managed his negotiation, that he paid off the king's debts as they fell due, at an exchange of twenty and twenty-two shilhngs per pound, whereby the king saved no less than an hundred thousand marks, Nor did the advantage ofthe nation from the eminent skill of this. great English merchant, terminate here ; for, when the exchange was ¦ greatly to the disadvantage of England, gold and silver were daily ex ported out of the kingdom in great plenty ; he by wisely raising it, ia the course of his money negotiations for the service of the state, caused. the coin to be brought back again, to the general e^nolument of ths. whole trading interest. Thus the wisdom of Sir Thomas's counsels proved not only of th*. highest honour and advantage to king Edwavd's reign,, but to those of. his successors, queen Mary and queen Elizabeth ; both these, princesses having made choice of him for the management of their money, and their mercantile affairs, so that he was peculiarly named fHH ROYAI, M'ERC^iANT. Slav/, Maitland, Postkl/iwayte, Ward. LONDON. i03 Sir Richard, therefore, desired his lordship to move king Henry VIII. that a letter might be sent to Sir George, re quiring him to sell these houses to the mayor and common alty for that purpose ; he suppossd that the expence of erect ing a burse would cost upwards of two thousand pounds, half of which he doubted not to raise before he went out of office." In another part of the same letter, Sir Richard urged, " that whereas the liberty of banking was theii granted by patent, how necessary it was, that all merchants, both subjects and foreigners, should be pertnitted to exercise exchanges and re-changes without restraint ; the want of which was a great detriment to trade, and occasioned the ex portation of gold out of the kingdom ; he, therefore, re quested Sir Thomas to prevail on the king to issue his pro clamation to that purpose," which the king wisely complied with. The consequence of these apphcations was, that se veral common councils were held, whether there should be a burse, or convenient place of meeting, for merchants to transact their ' mercantile concerns; and in 1534, king Henry VIII. sent his letters to the city for erecting a new burse at Leadenball ; but upon consideration of the cir cumstance, it Avas put to the vote, whether the proposed burse should be removed from Lombard Street ; when being negatived, the merchants had their meetings and their in conveniences as usual. What the father could not effect, the son accomplished. Sir Thomas Gresham proceeded with his father's design, and improving upon his spirit, proposed that if the corporation * would give him a piece of ground in a commodious situa tion, he would build an Exchange at his own eixpeuce, with large and covered walks, where the merchants and traders of all sorts might daily assemble, and transact business at all seasons, without interruption from the weather, or im pediment of any kind. This gracious offer was gratefully accepted, and in 1566, several buildings in Cornhill and the adjoining alleys, forming a square of eighty houses, were purchased for upwards of 3,532/. and sold for 478/. on condi- * This was in 1564, Sir Richard Mallory, being mayor, and Edvvartf Jackmsn and Lionel Ducket, esquires, sheriffs. ¦0 2 tion 104 LONDON. •tion of pulling them down, and clearing away the materials. The ground plot having been then leveUed at the expence of the city, and possession given to Sir Thomas, who in the deed is stiled " Agent to the Queen's Highness ;" he, on the seventh of June, in the sdme year, laid the foundation ; and the work was carried on with such expedition, that, in November 1567, the whole was covered in with slate, and the shell shortly after finished. The plan which Sir Thomas adopted in the formarion of this structure, was similar to that at Antwerp; being an oblong square, with a portico, supported by pillars of marble, ten on the north aud south sides, and seven on the east and west ; under which stood the shops, each seven feet and a half long, and five feet broad ; in all one hundred and tv/enty ; twenty- five on each side east and west; thirty- four and an half north; and thirty-five and an half south, each of which paid an average rent of 4l. \0s. per annum. Other shops were likewise fitted up in the lower vaults; but tbe darkness and damps rendered them so inconvenient, that they were compelled to b^ let out to other uses. Upon the roof stood the crest of the founder, which was a grass hopper. The edifice being fully completed, the shops were opened in 1569. In the year 1579, according to Stow, on the 23d of January, queen Elizabeth, attended by her nobi lity, " came from her house at the Strand, called Sommerset House, and entered tiie city, by Temple Bar, through EJeet Street, Cheapo, and so by the north side of the burse, to Sir Thomas Gresham's, in Bishopsgate Streete, where she dined. After dinner, her majestie returned through Corn- hiU, entered the burse on the south side, and after that shee had viewed every part thereof above the ground, especially the pawne, which was richlie furnished with all sorts of the finest wares in the city ; she caused the same burse by an herralde and a trompet to bee proclaimed the Royall Ex change, and so to bee caUed from henceforth, and not otherwise *," • Book I. p. 283. edit. 1720. A tradition asserts that upon this oc casion. Sir Thomas had a pearl of great cost reduced to powder, which he drank off in a bumper to the queen, in a glass of wine. Without LONDON. 105 Without recurring to the general welfare of her subjects, ¦which was ever Elizabeth's prevailing object,, as well as her inchnation to gratify their laudable endeavours ; Sir Thomas Gresham had strong claims upon his sovereign's gratitude ; he had assisted her and her family in their pecuniary distress, at the same time, he evinced a patriotic self-denial of exor bitant interest. Such conduct had exalted him in the opinion of the queen, and endeared him to his fellow citizens. This honourable distinction was not then to be wondered at. Sir Thomas by will settled the Royal Exchange in two moieties, one to the mayor and commonalty of London, the other to the company of Mercers, under certain condi tions. By this disposition, sufficient care was taken, that the two corporations, in whom the trust was reposed, should receive no damage by its execurion ; for the stated annual payments amounted to no more than 603/. 6s. 8d. and the yearly rents of the Exchange received. by Sir Thomas were 740/. beside the additional profits that must arise from time to time by fines, which were very considerable. But the lady Anne, his wife, was to. enjoy both his mansion-house and the Exchange, during her life, if she survived him, and then they were, both vested in the two corporations, as was declared in the will, for the term of fifty years ; which limi tation was made on account of the statute of mortmain, that prohibited the alienation of lands or tenements to any cor poration, without licence first had from t^e crown. And that space of time the testator thought sufficient for procur ing such licence, the doing of which he earnestly recom mended to them without delay ; in default whereof, these estates were to go to his heirs at law. After his death, his widow, is said to have received 751/. 5s. per annum, in rents, &c. from the Exchange; which at five per cent, was the interest of upwards of 15,000/. The ground having cost 4,000/. probably the expences of the fabric were not more than 6,000/. ; so that Sir Thomas was enabled to leave his widow, with the interest of 9,000/. the clear profits of this extensive undertaking. Such an union of public utiUty and private advantage is seldom equalled, ^ But 1Q6 LONDON. But the flames which involved the metropolis in one ge neral ruin, laid this magnificent structure in ashes ; it was however soon renovated by the classical hand of Sir Christo pher Wren, at the joint expence ofthe corporation andthe Mercers company, to the amount of 80,000/. Charles II. laid the first stone of fhe present building, Oc tober 23d, 1667, when he was magnificently entertained on the spot ; and in return, his majesty knighted the two sheriffs. The following particulars ofthe operation are from the Jour nals of the House of Commons : " After the year 1596, all the affairs of Sir Thomas Gre sham's trust were managed by a committee of four aldermen and eight commoners, on the part ofthe corporation, and by the master and wardens, and eight of the court of assistants of the lyiercers company. When the Exchange was burnt in 1^^6, only 234/. Ss. 2d. belonging to the trust was in the company's possession ; yet it appears they begun the work of re-buUding as soon as possible. Accordingly, oh tbe 15th of February following, their sub-committee was ordered to assist the city surveyors, in giving directions for removing of rubbish, cleansing of arches, taking down de fective walls, &c. and to give a joint estimate of the ground necessE!,ry fpr convenient streets at each end of the intended structure. On the 25th, the joint committee agreed to pe tition the king for an order to obtain Portland Stone, " September 3Qth, 1667. The committee resolved, at Gresham College, that as his majesty had been pleased to in terest himself in rebuilding the Exchange,' they thought it thejr duty. to lay the elevations and plans of the structure before him, for this purpose they requested the lord mayor, two members of the corporation, two of the Mercers com pany, and Mr. Jerman, one of the city surveyors, to wait on the king with them ; and at the same time to petition for per mission to extend the southwest angle of -the Exchange into the street. On the 27th of the same month, the committee received the report from the above deputation, that the plans, &Q. had be^n laid before the king, and Sir John Denham, snrveyor-general of his majesty's works, had greatly ap proved LONDON. TOT proved of them, and particularly of that forthe south por tico, which he assented to be extended into the street. Thus supported, the committee directed certain persons to treal with the proprietors of ground near the Exchange, where- necessary, aud with others for building materials and work- n>en. " On the 23d of October, 1667, King Charles IL went to the Royal Exchange, and placed the base of the pillar on the west side of the north entrance. He was entertained on this occasion at the joint expence of the city and company with a chine of beef, a grand dish of fowls, ihams, dried ' tongues, anchovies, caviare, &c, and plenty of wines. Th© entertainment vyas provided under a temporary shed, built and adorned for the purpose, upon the Scotch wal^i " His majesty gave 20/. in gold to the workmen. " On the 31st. James Duke of York laid the first stone of the eastern pillar, and was regaled in the same manner. And on the 18 th of November, Prince Rupert placed that ou the east side of tbe south entrance. " October 24th, 1667. Several tenants below the Ex change, were acquainted by the committee, that it was their intention to gratifj^ the king in his desire of having the Ex change dear of contiguous buildings ; for which reason they requested of them to surrender their respective leases for an adequate consideration, and the refusal of any houses that might be built near or on their premises. " December 9th, 1667. The committee considered the draft made by Mr. Jerman, for rebuilding the Exchange ; and resolved, " that porticos should be buih on the north and south sides, according as his mkjesty desires, and as are de scribed in the aforesaid draft; and that houses shall be built on the heads of the said porticos and shops underneath," And that the committee might not be obstructed in their progresSj by the owners- and tenants of contiguous grounds, three persons of each party in the trust were appointed, at tended by Jerman, to apply to the; king for a prohibition of any building on them, « The 103 LONDON. " The following official entry was inserted in the books, by an order, dated December 16th, 1667. A letter from the right honourable the Earl of Manchester, recommending one Caius Gabriel Gibber, to the making the statues for the Royal Exchange, and the rather in regard he hath shewn his majesty some models which have been wdl liked of, having been read : the committee called the gentleman in, and ac quainted him, that the business of making the statues is yet very much from their thoughts, having the whole Exchange to build first ; and that a new committee will succeed before the main ^^'ork be effected, to whom, when fitting time shaU come, he may do well to apply himself. " December 21st, 1667. The king intimated, to the committee, that if any person presumed to build near the Exchange, before an act of parliament could be obtained, be would interpose the authority of his privy council." The ensuing particulars are from a book produced to a , committee of the House of Commons, in 1747. " The Said book begins the 27th October, 1666, and ends July 12th, 1676, and it hereby appears, that the total expence of rebuilding the Royal Exchange, amounted unto 58,962/. the company's moiety whereof, was the sum of 29,481/. to defray which expence, it appeared the company were obliged from time to time to borrow money upon their seal, insomuch, that in the year 1682, they had taken up money on their bonds, on account of the trust of Sir Thomas Gresham, to the amount of 45,795/. It appeared on this occasion, from the examination of John Crumpe, " that the company had hitherto contributed equally with the city in the repairing of the Royal Exchange, and paying Sir Thomas Gresham's lectures and charities ; and that in or about the year 1729, one of the lecturers of Sir Thomas Gresham filed a bill in Chancery against the city of London and the Mercers company, to answer which it became ne cessary to draw out and state an account between the Mercers company and Sir Thomas Gresham's trust estate, as also between the city and company, and the said estate^ 5 and LONDON. . im and accordingly such accounts were drawn up ; and thereby it appears, that there was due to the Mercers company, foi their moiety of the expence of building the Royal Ex change and other paj'ments up to that time, the sum of 100,659/. I8s. lOd. Mr. Cawne produced a continuation of this account, down to 1745, when the principal and intereft amounted to 141,885/. 7.?. If/.. , The principal front of this stately mansion of commerce is in CornhiU'', where it would make a noble appearance, did not the narrow space of the street preclude an extended view. On each side of this front are Corinthian demi-co- lumns, supporting a compass pediment ; within each of ' y/hich are niches^ containing well -executed statues of Charles I. and Charles II. in Roman habits. These pover a piazza of six lofty arches. Over the aperture, on the cor nice between the two pediments, is a relievo of the king's arms. The sides of this entrance are ornamented by a range of large sashed windows, between demi-columns and pilafters ofthe Composite .order ; above which, the ftru6ture is orna mented with a baluftrade. From the centre of this front, above the great arch, wbich reaches to the architrave, rises a steeple of three gradations, each surmounted by pilafters and pillars, with entablatures and balullradcs, the creft of the Mercers compan}^, and the city supporters, inftead of yases, except the third story, which has pediments on each side, with g, cupola arising from the centre, terminating in a globe, and a brazen grasshopper for a vane. The clock which 9,dorns each side ot the first story, has a good effect ^t is an excellent piece of workmanship, and the rae- dinm of regularity, by which the merchants transact their concerns ; it has chimes, which play different tunes each day — the 104th Psalm tune being appropriated for the Sabbath. There are, many beauties in the architecture, and but few defects. The four orders of the quadrangle are magnificent, and richly decorated with the basements, arches of the walks, the cornices over them, the niches, statues, pillars, circular, windows, entablature, pediments, and baluftrade, all in correct proportion and arrangement. Vol. IL No, 32. P ~ Within no LONDON. Within the quadrangle are twenty-four niches in the intef- eolumns, twenty of these are decorated with the statues of the icings and Queens of England, properly habited, ex'dept three, which are in Roman habits. On ihe south ride are Edward I. Edward III. Henry V. and Henry VL On the west side, Edward IV. Edward V. Henry VII. and Henry VIII. On the north side, Edward VI. Mary I, Elizabeth, James I. Charies I. Charies II. and James II. On the east side, WiUiam III. and his queen, in conjoined niches; queen Anne, George I. and II. by Rysbrack, and George III. by Wilton. Most of the kings before Charies II. were sculp tured by Cibber ; those of Charles I. and II. on the front in the street, are the workmanship of Bushnell. A very fine statue, of Charles II. by Grinlin Gibbons, formerly graced the centre of the area ; but this was replaced by another, by Spiller; this is also habited in the Roman Stile. Underthe piazza, are two obscured statues, one dedicated to the me mory of Sir Thomas Gresham ; the other erected aS' a mark of civic respect to Sir John Bernard, in his life-time. The modesty of this magistrate was so great, tliat after this statue was placed, he was never seen on the walks afterwards. The ground plot of tbe whole ftructurc is two hundred and three feet in length, and one hundred and seventy-one feet broad, The area in the middle contains sixty-one square perches, surrounded by a regular substantial stone build. ing wrought in rustic, with a spacious piazza. In the centre ef the principal fronts north and south, are grand entrances into the area, under a very lofty and noble arch. In this area, and under the surrounding piazza, the mer chants, and all other persons' engaged in mercantile con nexions, meet every day to transact business, between the hours of twelve and three, and for mutual convenience, those engaged in the same branches of trade, assemble in distinct parts, or, as they are called, The Walks, a view of which may be seen by the following sketch or plan. NORTH, LONDON. 1:11 NORTH. Threadneedle Street. East Country Walk. Irish Walk. Scotch Walk. Dutch and Jewellers. ^0O003GpOCOO90OO0000OO«9Oa0OOaeg009OO MoeooooocooaoMaMoaoooooMooooaoaolJlt j Silk- I mens ; Wklk. Clothiers Walk. Hamburgh Walk. Grocers and Druggifts: Walk. pr rt '"'¦'rt F C M 1 ^ ooooeoaoo Barbadoes Walk. 00000«QaiKOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD Virgina Jamaica Walk. Walk. Sahers Walk. Brokers, &c. of Stocks Walk. Walk. Italian Walk. Canary Walk., .'^ . French Walk, i I oooooaaoaoofloooDooaooooooMeeooDoaeoJ^ Spanish Jews! Walk. Walk. SOUTH. Cornhill. Under the north and south fronts are spacious stair-cases, -whicn lead to a gaUery that extends round the four sides of the building, and in which were formerly about two hundred shops, occupied by milliners, haberdashers, &c. but these shops have been long deserted ; and the galleries are now let out to the Royal Exchange Assurance Office ; Lloyd's Coffee House, See. Under the whole are vaults occupied by the East India Company, as magazines for pepper. The north side in Threadneedle Street has a piazza, pi laster, and pediment, but contains nothing particularly striking or elegant. In the year 1767, parliament granted 10,000/. for there- pairs ofthe Exchange, Mr. Robinson, who had the super- P 2 intendence CO 112 LONDON. intendance of the business, found the west end so decayetf,, as to be obliged to have it rebuilt. The lower stages of the structure is surrounded by offices and shops, some of which obtrude themselves in a disagreeable and inconvenient mah- ncr ; and the north front is very much incommoded by stage coa,ches, plying for passengers to the villages in the vicinity of London. ' Mr, Grosley mentions an anecdote, of the amiable Duke de Nivernois, ambassador from France, tonegociate the peace in 1763, which is worth j^ of attention here. " I took care," says he, " to enquire at the Royal Ex change, into the particulars of the treatment, wbich the Duke de Nivernois met vrith there in his embassy. The Ga-' zette of France, made mention of it at the time, and it had very much the appearance of insult. *' Curiosity had led that nobleman to the Royal Exchange. After he had walked all over it, just as he bad approached the. great gate, leading to the street, it was shut upon him. At this he discovered some surprize ; and the report being spread, that the Duke was there, he was surrounded,. pressed, and squeezed by the croud, tiU he reached the op posite gate, which he found half shut. " Upon this occasion, I was informed, nay, I found by my own experience, that the Royal Exchange is opened before one o'clock ; that at tvvo, one of the folding doors which opens into. the street, is shut ; that at half , after two, the other folding door is also shut, together with one be longing to the opposite gate : the folding gate that remains open, is half shut at three quarters-of an hour after two, and at three, aU the gates are locked, so that those, who stay behind till the hour is past, are sure to be locked m tiU be tween four and five. "Now it happened, that the Duke de Nivernois pre-' sented himsdf at the door, that leads to the great street, just as it wa» shutdng. With regard to the surrounding crowd, I was informed by several bankers, vvho were then upon Change, that the crowd was occasioned by the general eager ness of the multitude to see a man, whp, by his magnificence . ' ' ¦'' and LONDON. 113 and affability^ had conciliated the affections of the English of all ranks—of a mim whom England views with the same eye as France, and, who, having united the two nations in their opinion concerning him, might carry that union as far as he thought proper." It gives us great pain to add that this great, this good man, in consequence of the French revolution, was, at the age of eighty and upwards, immured in a loathsome dunge6n, where he ended his days in extreme distress ! We ascend the gallery by two spacious stair cases, witb iron rails and black marble steps. The appearance of this gaUery is contrary to its first intention ; and, instead of the busy scenery of shops, presents a blank; except the en trances to the offices of the various public bodies, which rent this part of the building. The Royal Exchange Assurance Office, which occupies some of these apartments, , is one of the surviving schemes started in the memorable South Sea year. This corporation was established by act bf parliament in the reign of king George I. for assuring buildings, goods, wares, and mer chandizes from fire ; ships and merchandize at sea ; and for lending money upon bottomry ; for thdr charter they agreed to pay 300,000/. into his majesty's exchequer, for discharg ing the debts of the civil list. But the scheme not imme diately answering, the crown remitted most pkrt of the mo ney, and granted them a new charter, impowering them to insure lives. This corporation has several engines, and men, with proper tools and instruments, to extinguish fires; and porters to remove goods upon such melancholy occasions : these wear a badge On their arm, with the figure of the Royal Exchange upon it; and they are numbered, in order to ascertain the person who wears it, in case of any com plaint against him. The management of the corporation i? jn a governor, sub^governor, deputy governor, and twenty- four- directors ; under whom are a treasurer, a secretary, an accomptant, and clerks. The OFFICE for the mayor's court si also kept over the Exchange. And in a large room conveniently adapted forthe ' purpose. IU LONDON, purpose, are read the lectures which were formerly delivered at Gresham College, agreeably to the will of the founder, be fore the erection of the present Excise Office. Tlie north-west angle of this gallery is occupied by that celebrated commercial rendezvou.s., Lloyd's. Coffe;e House. This is of vei-y long establishment, and maintains a supe riority of resort to any place of its kind. The merchants who frequent it arc of the first consequence ; it is a vehicle of communication between the government and the mer cantile interest of the city: and as* its information is kv.- thentic, no reports of engagements, captures and rc-cap- *ures of shipping, &c. are credited except " the news is up at LloycVsT At this place subscriptions are usually com menced for the exigencies of the state ; for the relief and support of the rdatives of soldiers and seamen who have died ih defence of their country ; and late experience has fully shewn, what has been the effect produced by the sub scription at " Lloyd's," when the empiro was threatened by invasion. Mr. Ralph, in his Critical Review of Public Buildings, isfc. remarks, in speaking of the Royal Exchange, that " here, as in most costly fabrics, there is something to blame, and something to admire : a building of that extent, grandeur, and elevation, ought, without question, to have had' an ample area before itj that we might comprehend the whole,, and every part at once : this is a requisite which ought to be allowed to all buUdings, but particularly all of this sort; that is to say, such as are formed of very large parts; for in such a case the eye is foTced to travel with pain and diffi culty from one object to another ; nay, sometimes obliged to. jiivide one into many parts ; where^by the judgment is con fused, and it is, with great^ uncertainty, we come to aUy Conclusion at aU. Upon the whole, the entrance into this building is very grand and august ; the two statues which adorn it are, in a particular manner, beautiful and ad mirable : but then the tdwer which arises over it is a weight to the whole buUding, and is, at the same time, broken into S.0 roany parts, that it rather hurts than pleases ; and, if re- du,ce4 I!fi!«ii|!!f';li"''' LONDON. 115 ize duced to one half of its present height, would harmoni, abundantly better vrith the .whole. The inside is light and airy, laid out in a very good stilej and finished with great propriety of decoration : I could wish though that either the ' statues were executed in a better manner, or that the City would dondescend to excuse the setting up any more: for nothin.g can be.more ridiculous than to hurt the eye with a -fault, in the affectation of a beauty." From the Royal Exchange, we pas& the end of Castle Alley *, to Bank Buildings ; a range of handsome struc tures, occupied by stock-brokers, lottery offices, and the Sun Fiee Ofiice ; for insuring houses and other buUdings, goods, wares, ancl merchandize, and ships in harbour, in dock, or buUding, and craft from loss and damage by fire. This being the pfincipalof maay useful institutions of its kind, we shall more diffusely describe its principle. In surance from loss or damage by fire tends to the safety of pro perty in general, and to the preservation of many families in parricular, who otherwise might be exposed to poverty and ruin : and the ejjtending so laudable an undertaking (that every part of the nation might have the benefit thereof) * Stow writes, that here stood a large stone house, called the Castle • and was used as a tavern, which had a passage from Cornhill toThread- needle Street ; part of it was taken down for enlarging the Exchange. This structure was supposed by some to have been an antient church - " whereof," as he says, " there was no proportion :" others imagined it was a Jew's house, " as though none but Jews had dwelt in stone houses ; that opinion was therefore without warrant." For, besides the strong building of stone houses, against invasion of them in the night, wHen the watches were kept, in the first year of Richard 1. to prevent the casualties by fire, which often had happened in the City when the houses were built of timber, and covered with reed and straw^ Henry Fitz Alwine being nlayor, it was decreed, that " from thenceforth no man should build within the City but of stone, until a* certain height, and to cover the same building vvith slate, or brent tile, And this was the very same cause of such stone buildings, whereof many have remained till our time; but for winning of ground, they have been taken down, and in place of some of them, being low, as but two stories above the ground, many houses of ibur or five stories high are placed." Stow> byStrype, ii.463» ^ ytaSf 1J6 , LONDON: M-as, in great measure, owing to this society, they being the first that attempted the insurance of goods, and that of houses, bieyond the limits of the bills of mortality. And, in order to render the security unexceptionable, the sum of one hundred thousand pounds is raised, to be a fund for that purpose. The several Heads of Insurance. 1 . Common Insurances. ^r-Qyi^ldings covered with slate, &c. ^nd built on all sides with brick or stone ; and goods, mer chandise, and trades therein, not hazardous. 2i Hazardous Insurances. -rrTioiiiev or pkafer buildings; also thatched barns and out-houses, containing stock or im plements of husbandry ; or brick or stone buildings, whereiij hazardous goods or trades are deposited or carried on. 3.. Doubly -hazardous Insurances.— rA][ tiniber oi- plaster buildings, wherein hazardous goods or trades are deposited or carried, on. To prevent frauds, persons insured by thi^ ofiice shaU re- eeive no benefit from their policies, if the same houses ox goods, &c. are^ insured in any other office, unless such inr surance be first specified and aUowed by an indorsement on the back of the policy, in which case this office will pay their "rateable proportion on any loss or damage; and if any person or persons shall insure his, her, or their mills, buildT ings, manufactories, or houses; utensils, stock in trade, goods, wares, or merchandize:; and shaU cause the same to be described otherwise than as they really are, so as the same be insured at a lower premium than the special l^a- zards may require, or at a lower rate than proposed in the table of premiums, such insurance shall be of no force, nor shall the person insuring receive any benefit by such pohcy, in case of any loss or damage. No loss or damage to be paid on fire happening by any in- vasion, foreign enemy, civil commotion, or any tnilitary or usurped power whatever. When any person dies, the policy and interest therein sliaU continue to the heir, executor, or administrator, re spectively, LONDON. 117 ^itectively, to whom the right of the premises insured shall belong; provided, before any new payment be made, such heir, executor, or administrator, do procure his or her right to be indorsed on the policy, at the said office, or the pre mium be paid in the name of the said heii*, executor, or ad ministrator. Persons insured, sustaining any loss or damage by fire, are forthwith to give notice thereof at the office, and as soon as possible afterwards ddiver in as particular an account of their loss and damage as the nature of the case will admit of, and make proof of the same by their oath or affirmation, a:ccordingto/tfe form practised in the said office, and by their books of accounts, or other proper vouchers, as shall be reasonably required, and procure a certificate under the handi of the minister and church-wardens, together with some other reputable inhabitants of the parish, not con cerned in such loss, importing, that they are well ac quainted with the character and circumstances of the per son or persons insured, and do know or verily believe, that' he, she, or they, really and by misfortune, without any fraud or evil practice, have sustained, by such fire, the loss and dairiage, as his, her, or their loss, to the value therein mentioned; but, till such affidavit and certificate of such the insured's lo,ss shall be made and produced, the loss-money shall not be paj^able. And, if there appear anj' fraud or false swearing, such sufferers shall be excluded from all be nefit by their policieSi And, in case any difference arise' between the office and the insured, touching any loss br da mage, such difference shall be submitted to the judgment' and determination of' arbitrators indifferently chosen, whose award, in writing, shall be conclusive and binding to all parties. When any loss is settled and adjusted, the insured will re ceive immediate satisfaction for the same withoiit any deduc tion or discount, and are not liable to any covenants or calls for contributions to make good looses. Vol. II. No. 32. Q Amual llg LONDON. Annual Premiums to be paid for Insurances. Sums, insured, not exceeding 3000/. Common, 2s. per cent. Hazardous, Zs. per cent. Doubly hazardous, 5s. per few/.— Sums not exceeding 6000/. Common, 2,?. 6d. per cent. Hazardous, A^s. per cent. , Doubly hazardous, 6s.per 'cent.— 10,0001. Common, 2s. 6d. per cent. Sums above 6000/. hazardous and doubly hazardous, may be insured by special agreement. Farming stock, on any part of the farm, insured under general pdicies, without the average-clause, !it2s.6d.perce7-Lt.—^. B. Any barn, or other out-building, and the farming stock therein, may be insured under one sum : the premium is 3s. Tl\e engineers and firemen of the Sun Fire Office, in con- j unction with those of the Royal Exchange and Phoenix fire offices, patrol nightly throughout the year the different dis tricts of the metropolis, which salutary measure (the only institution of the kind, and supported at a very consider able expense by these three offices only,)' has been produc tive of the greatest public benefits, it having been the means of checking numerous fires in their infancy, which other wise might have been attended with the most destructive con sequences. So that assistance may be had at all hours, in this dreadful calamity. • By thus stating at one view, the objects of safety, and the easy means held out by this respectable corporation to secure that safety from the _most lamentable, of all calamities; a system of public spirit and mode of profit is displayed vvhich is almost unknown in any pther commercial city. The'other insurance corporations are nearly upon the same benevolent plan ; and in future we shall only notice them as they occur in our rout, and mention their several variations. .The opposite corner to Bank Buildings, forming the point of CornhiU and Lombard Street, claiims peculiar no tice. It was the first residence of Thomas Guv, Esq. sole founder of the hospital which bears his name. ^ At this smaU shop, with a stock of only 200/. did he com mence and continue business in the most penurious manner, an LONDON. 119 an old newspaper, or proof sheet of. printing, serving him instead of a table-cloth ; yet this industrious speculator ac cumulated such sums as enabled him to leave 200,000/. for the establishment of tbe hospital ; beside immense property for other benevolent usCs ; and he rose to be member of par liament for Tamworth, where he was born. • Proceeding eastwardly through CornhHl, the first object of attention is the Globe Fire Office, the establishment of which comprehends granting insurances against loss or damage by fire, insurances on lives and survivorships, the endowment of children, and immediate, deferred, and pro gressive annuities. The capital of this company is one million sterling. They insure houses fired by lightening. Pope's Head Alley, at present inhabited by stock. brokers, notaries, and mercantile persons, was formerly oc cupied by a vast ¦stone building, before the great fire ; which was undoulatedly a residence of the antient kings of Eng land, and reached to the western angle of the street. It was distinguished by the arms of England, before any quar- terings were annexed, supported by two angels, " fair and largely graven in stone over the door or stall of one great house." Another division of the structure was the Pope's Head tavern, the front of which was toward the south in Lombard Street ; the third division was caUed the Sto?ie House. This range of buildings-was supposed to be the re_ s^dence of King John ; " which might be so," says Stow, " for I find, in a written copy of Matthew Paris's His tory, that, in the year 1233, Henry IIL sent Hubert de Burgh, Earl of Kent, to Cornhill in London,- there to answer all . matters objected to him ; when' he wisely ac quitted himself. This b«ng a royal domain, is farther proved by the fallowing particular, which states that Ed ward the Third gave his large Hospitium, or place for the entertainment of guests, in Lombard Street, to the col lege of St. Stephen, Westminster, in the twenty-second year of his reign. On the same side of the way, facing the Exchange, is the British Fire Office, and Westminster Society, for iiKur^nce on lives i^nd survivorships. The variation of the Q 2 BrifiUi 120 LONDON. Britifh from other fire offices is, that the directors depart front- the usual rule of requiring minute specification of goods, and their respective values, whereby, in case of fire, many articles not being admitted in the demand, heavy loss often, rimes arises to those whose claim in the aggregate would otherwise be fully satisfied, and, therefore," only require a general description or denomination of goods, without ascer, taining tbe extent of the insurance on each, (except on ar-, tides required to be otherwise insured) ; so that, on what» ever part of property the loss may faU, the insured will re, cover to its full extent. Exchange Alley was the house of Mr. Alderman Baok^ wdl, of whom anecdotes are given in the preceding His, tory, under the reign of James II. After the great fire, it was formed into a passage from CornhiU to Lombard Street and Birchin Lane. This cluster of buildings contains ths two great coffee houses of Garraway and Baker, The first frequented by shipbrokers, &c. and where estates, merchan, dize, and other commodities, are sold by auction. The ' King's Arms was formerly a famous place of public resort ; but is now only used for offices, &c. Opposite this avenue, before the Exchange, is a very handsome pump, with the following inscription : *' On this spot a well was first made, and a house of correction built thereon, by Henry Wallis, mayor of London^ in the year 1282." At the bottom is the name of Wright, the archi tect, who built the* present pump. There are some singular circumstances concerning the first structure. The conduct of the lower sort of citizens having been very irregular, in consequence of the tyrannic reign of Henry III. it was necessary that means should be used to recover some degree of subordination ; but it was not liU the reign of his son, Edward I. that any good pur^ pose was effected ; when the pubhc spirited Henry le Wal lis, mayor, enclosed a spring, lately discovered, with a stone wall, and erected a prison for night walkers, and other suspicious persons, who at that time infested the City. f his imprpveoient of utility and safety, was denominated the LONDON. 1 21 the Tun, ori account of its circular formation. This build ing became of such note, that not only the laity, but the clergy, were subjected to its reforming principles; but as reformation may sometimes be carried to excess, that excess induced Richard Gravesend, bishop of London, to apply to the king for redress. Edward therefore wrote to the ci tizens in 12,97, informing them, "that though the great charter exempted clergymen from imprisonment by lay men, some citizens, from mere spite, during their watches, entered the chambers of the clergy, and imprisoned them' like felons in the Tww," He willed therefore, " that, in full hustings, a proclamation should be made, that no watch af terward should enter the chamber of a priest^ under a for feiture of thirty pounds *." , This mandate vvas so disagreeable, that nine principle ci tizens expressed their disgust by breaking open the Tun prison, and setting several of the prisoners free; such an act of violence, drew down the v^engeance of the court ; the rioters were personally punished, by a long and painful im prisonment ; and it also furnished an excU.Se to fine the city 20,000 marks, to be paid into the Exchequer : but a benefit vvas produced through this evil ; for, by the sum of 3000 marks in addition, which was extorted, the city obtained, after a seizure of twdve years, not only a restoration of the king's favour, but some valuable additional privileges. in the year 1383, the citizens, taking upon'them epis- popal rights, first imprisoned such women as were taken in adultery, in the Tun ; and then having exposed them pub licly, caused their heads to be shaved, as was usually done to thieves, led them about the City, in sight of all the in habitants, with trumpets and pipes sounding before. them, that their persons might be more particularly distinguished. It was also ordered in the charge to the wardmc tes, " that jf there be any priest in service within the ward, M'hich be fore time hath been set in the Tun, in CornhiU, for his dis, ' honesty, and hath forsworne the city, aU such shall be per- ^pnted." • Sto>y, StQW 122 LONDON. Stow tells us a ludicrous anecdote of one of these priests, whose incontinence had been discovered ; for which being apprehended and committed, " I saw,"^ says be, " his pu nishment to be thus : he was on three market days conveyed through the high streets and markets of this city, vvith a paper on his head, whereon was written bis crime. The first day he rode in a car ; the second on a horse, vrith his face to the horse's tail ; the third, he was led between two ; and every day rung with basons, and proclamations made of his fact, at every turning of the streets ; and also before John Atwood's (the person offended) stall, and the church door of his service, where he lost his chauntry of twenty nobles a year, and was banished the city for ever." The conveyance of water from Tyburn, for the benefit of the City in various districts, caused another alteration in the Tun in tbe year 1401. It was then made a cistern of sweet water, and called the Conduit upon CornhiU ; the well was planked over, and a strong timber prison erected for disor derly persons. This was denominated " The Cage;" to which was attached a pair of stocks, whence a great part of the ndghbourhood was named Ze Stocks. On tbe top of the cage was placed a pillory, for the punishment of bakers of fending in the affize of bread ; for millers stealing at the mill ; and for procuresses, scolds, and other offenders. In the year 1468, it vvas decreed by the mayor, " tha^ divers persons, being common jurors, who' had forsworn themselves for rewards, should ride from Newgate to the pillory on CornhiU, with paper mitres on their heads, where they were to be exposed, and aftervs'ards returned to Newv gate." Fabian writes that in 1509, Darby, Smith, and Simpson, ringleaders of false inquests in London, were compelled to ride through the City with their faces to tbeir horses' tails, and papers on their heads, and were set on the pillory in Cornhill, and afterwards confined in Newsate, " where they died for very shame." With respect to the condiiit, Robert Drope, mdyor, in ¦1475,, LONDON. 123 1475, enlarged the cistern, at the east end, with stone aad lead., and castellated it in a handsome manner. In 1546, Sir Martin Bowes, mayor, who lived in Lom bard Street, z.nd whose back gate opened into Cornhill, op posite the conduit, proposed to enlarge and ornament the west part, as Alderman Drope had donp in the eastern ; but upon the removal of the cage and pilloiy, it was discovered that the ground was planked, and the well, " worn out of memory :" the well, however, was restored to its use, and a pump erected, whiclj having been removed, probably, in the confusion occasioned by the fire in 1666, was forgotten, but being recently revived, again dispenses its benefits for public use. Sweeting's Alley, formerly the extensive residence of a- Dutch merchant of the name of Sweething, is now filled by shops and coffee houses. In the year 1759, a dreadful fire broke out at Hamlin's coffee house, in the apartment of Mr : Poteridge, one of the inventors of musical glasses, which destroyed thirteen houses in the front of Cornhill. Mr. Po teridge perished in the flames. Passing Freeman's Court, so caUed from having been the residence of an alderman of that name, we come to Finch Lane, which obtained its name at a remote period, from Robert Finch or Fink, who rebuUt the church, called, from him, St. Bennet Fink. Near this lane is the Union Fire Office, which in its principle does not vary from establishments of a similar nature. The emblematical figures of Justice and Strength, in the front of this building, in Coade's composition, are very fine ; the mufcular powers of the Hercules are expressed in a masteriy manner. Birchin Lane, is a corruption of Birchover Lane, from its first builder. This was formerly inhabited by wealthy drapers, who continued their range of shops to the Stocks. It is curious to observe the revolution of streets and build ings ; in the reign of ;Heury V. this quarter was inhabited hy fripperers or upholders, who sold old cloaths and house hold furniture ! and, to, shew its reputation, Dan John Lyd_ gate humourously describes a poor countryman, who having lost his hood in Westminster HaU, saw it hung up for sale in 124 LONDON. in CornhUI. *. How different in the nineteenth century i» this spot ; wealth and integrity are its prerogatives ; and on the ^ This Song is referred to by Stow ; as it was supposed to point' out the circumstances of places in London at an early tirae in the language and poetry of the age, a copy of it must be a curiosity. Every year, by removing us farther from antient days, encreases the difficulty of finding the perishing remains of them ; but that noble repository of every thing relating to the history of mankind, the British Museum, at last afforded an opportunity to give new existence, to this specimen of old humourous description. « LONDON LYCKPENY. A Ballade com/iyled by Dan John Lydgate Monke of Berry, about yeres agoe, and now newly oiiersene and amended. TO London once my stepps I bent. Where trouth in no wyse should be faynt ; To Westmynster ward I forthwith went To a man of law to make complaynt : 1 sayd, fore Mary's love, that holy saynt, ' Pity the poore that would proceede ; But fore lack of mony I eold not spede. And as I thrust the prese amonge. By froward chau'nce my hood was gone. Yet for all that I stayd notlonge Tyll at the kynge bench I was come : > Before the judge I kneled anon And prayd him for .God's sake to take hede ; But fore lack of money I myght not spede. Beneth them sat clarkes a great rout, Which fast dyd wryte by one assent ; There stoode up one and cryed about ' ' Rychard, Jlobert, and John of Kent : I wist not well what this man me.nt, He cryed thycke there indede ; But he that lackt mony myght not spede. Uijto the common place I yode thoo. Where sat one with a sylken hoode; I dyd hym reverence for I ought to do so, And told my case as well as I coud. How my goods were defrauded me by falshood ; 1 gat not a man bf his mouth for my raced, And for lack of mony I myght not spede. Unto LONDON. 12^ the balance of its security relies the prosperity of a great portion of the commercial world. This Jane is now inha bited by bankers, and most respectable tradesmen. The : CoRPORATiqN ofthe London Assurance, in this lane, founded by royal charter of George I. and their powers , extended Unto the Rolls I gat me from thence,. Before the. clarkes of the chauncerye ; Where many I found earnyng of pence, But none at all regarded mee ; I gave them my playnt uppon my knee, They lyked it well, when they had it reade ; But lackiiig mony I could not be sped. In Westmynster-hall I found out one Which went in a long gown of ray«, .1 crouched ancl kneled before hym anon. For Mary's love of help I hym praye ; f* I wot not what thou meanest" gan he say; To get me thence he dyd me bede, For lack of mony I cold not spe^e. Within this hall neithere ryche nor yett poor Wold do for me ought although I shold dye ; Which seeing I gat me out of th' doore, Where Flemynge beg^n on me for to cry, '.'Master, what will you copen or by ; " Fyne felt hatts oir spectacles to reede " Lay down your sylver; and here you may spede." Then to Westmynster gate I presently went. When the sunn was at hyghe pryme ; Cokes to me they tooke good entent And profered me bread with ale and wyne ; -Sybbs of befe both fat and ful^^e, A fayre cloth they gan for to sprede But wantyng mony I might not be speede. Then unto London I dyd me hye, Of all the land it beareth the pryse ; Hot pescods one began to crye , Strabery rype and cherryes in the ryste : One had me come nere aud by spme spyce Peper and sayforne they gan me bede But fore lacke of moiiy I myght not spede. ¦•^01,. II. No, 3a-, P- Then 125 LONDON. extended to foreign parts, by an act of parliament in the present reign, assures houses, merchandize, &c. whether the property of the assured be on commission, or in trust. They also are accountable for damages by lightning ; and in extraordinary cases, even pay losses by invasion, civil com motion, and other circumstances of that nature. - In Then to the Chepe I began. me drawne. Where mutch people 1 sawe for to stande j One ofred me velvet, sylke, and lawne, Anothere he taketh me by the haande, " Here is Paris thred the finest in the launde," I never was used to such things in dede And wanting niony I myght not spede. Then went I forth by London Stone Throughout all Canwyke street. Drapers mutch cloth me ofred anone Then comes me one, cryd " hot shepes feete;" One cryde mackerell ryster greene, other gan greete. One bad me by a hood to cover my head. But fore want of mony 1 might not be sped. ' Then 1 hyed me into Estchepe, One cryes rybbs of befe and many a pye ; Pewter potts they clattered on a heape. There was harpe, pype, and mynstrelsye : " Yea by cock," " nay by cock" some began crye j Some sang of Jen ken and Julyan fore there mede. But fore lack of mony I myght not spede. Then into Cornhyll anon I yode. Where was much stolen gere amonge ; I saw where honge myne own hoode, That I had lost amonge the thronge : To by my own hood I thought it wronge, I knew it well as I dyd my crede, But for lack of mony I could not spede. The Taverner took me hy the sieve, " Sir," sayth he,: « wyll you our wyne assay ;" I answered, " That can not mutch me greve, A penny can do no more than it may :" , I dranke a pynt and for it dyd pay. Yet sore a hungered from thence I yede. And Wanting my mony I cold not spede. Th«« LONDON: 1^7 In Cornhill, was anciently a large Hofpitium or Inn caUed Coleyn's-hyn ; . a great controVerfy in 1 39 1 , was fiistained by the rectors of the two parishes of St. Michaipl and St. Peter, on account of oblations fi'om the weftern part ofthe inn, denominated Vernivele. Upon an inquisition, it was found that one part of the extreme western part, containing in length from the street northward, forty-three feet and an half, and in breadth along the street,' forty-one feet, was in the .parish of St. Michael ; the remaining part, containing from east to west on the north part, forty-two feet, and in breath twenty-six feet, was in the parish of St. Peter ; it was therefore finally settled, that the rector of St. Michael should admit the inhabitants of Vernivele to the sacrament, &c. and they should be accounted his parishioners ; and, that the rector of St. Peter, should be indemnified, the rector of St. Michael was to pay him xii. pence at the first of the Nativity, yearly for ever, under the pairi of sequestration, which composition was confirmed by bishop Braybroke *. Then hyed I me to Belynges Gate, And one cryed " Hoo, go we hence;" I prayd a bargeman for God's sake. That he would spare me my expence ; " Thou stepst not here," quo' he, " under ij pence," I lyst not yet bestow my almes dede ; Thus lacking mony I could not spede. Then I conveyed me into Kent ; For of the law wold I njeddle no more, Because no inan to me took entent," I dyght me to do as I dyd before : Now Jesus that in Bethlem'was bore Save London, and send trew lawyers there mede for who so w^^ts mony with them shall not spede. Explicit London Lyck/ienhy, Harl. MSS. vpl, cpclxvii. p. 126, 127, * Newcoun^s Repertori^m. B 2 ST. 128 LONDON. ST. MICHAEL, CORNHiIl. THE history of this church is very remote. AInoth the, priest gave it to the abbot and convent of Eovesham, who granted it and all their lands there held, in 1133 to Sparling^j the priest, fbr which he was to pay a yearly rent of one mark to \he abbot, and to find him lodging, fait, water, and and fire, whenever be came to London *. Sir Richard Drope was a great benefactor to the poor of the parish and the Ward. His lady having afterwards married Edward Gray Lord Lisle, was buried in, this (ihurch by the side of her first husband, in 1500. She was also a benefactress to the church, and gave ninety pounds to beautifying the structure, and her great messuage, with the appurtenances, to the parfon and churchwardens, for ever, on condition that they kept her anniversary to be spent on the poor or otherwise, to the arnount of three pounds, the rest to be ap propriated to the reparation of the church. The house and appurtenances, called Lady Lisle's Lands, were in the 34th * Amopg the registers of charters belonging to the abbey of Evesham, is the following note. "' In Lo>idoniis ecclesia S. Mich, de Cornhnlli pertinet ad ecclesiam de Evesham, cum tribus domibus, & reddit annu- atim ecclesia- duas marcas, & semel in anno ignem, salem, Se literiam." ¦ Cott. MSS. Vesji. b. xxiv. fol, 9. of LONDON. 129 of Henry VIII, leased out for sixty years, at a yearly rent of 81. 135. 4id. But, the parishioners not consulting their own interest, gave up this bequest as chantry lands ; and suffered the tombs of fuch benefaftors to be demolished without remorse. Another act of carelessness we cannot forbear to mention. Alderman John Tolus, in 1548, gave to_the rector, and chui-chwardens for ever, towards tbe repair of the church, and the rdief of the poor, his tenement and appurtenances in the parish ; but throug^h the knavery of the executors, and the negligence of the parishioners, the benefaction was not claimed for forty years. There was a chantry founded in this church for the soul of Walter de Billingham, to which bishop Braybroke collated in 1390. Two other chantries were founded by WiUiam Co merton-and Simon Smith. Stow defcribes this to have been " a fair fjnd beautiful church ; but since the surrender' of their lands to Edward VI, greatly blemished by the building of four tenements on the north side thereof, towards the high street, in place of a green church-yard, whereby tbe church was darkened, and otherwise annoyed." These tenements, with the consent of the Draper's company, patrons, and Grindall, bishop of London,' were given by Richard Matthew, then rector, 1 1 Elizabeth, to alderman Hawes, and other inhabitants, and their heirs for ever ; the rector reserving to himself and suc cessors the tythes, towards the support and reparation of the church and its ornaments. On the south side of the structure, was " a proper clois ter, and a fair church-yard, with a pulpit cross, similar to that at St. Paul's cathedral In this cloister were lodgings for choristers, and in tbe cross sermons were preached; this was all at the expence of Sir John Rudstone, mayor in 1528. After his death in 1531, the choir was dissolved, the cross delapidated, his monument was demolished, and every other sacrilege was committed consistently with the barbarity of tbe despoilers. However, some humane persons having procured tbe choristers' lodgings, they were appointed for the dwellings of antient widow parishioners, who were decayed, or were unable to bear the charge of greater rents. - ' • ¦ ' The 130 LONDON, The steeple was erected in 1421, and a ring of five bells placed in the bellfry; to this a sixth was added by the gift of several benefactors, to be rung out . at eight o'clock, every evening. These were afterwards encreased to ten, forming one of the most musical peals in England. Beside those whom we have already mentioned as having been' buried in the old churCh, there is another of too much consequence to be omitted, Robert Fabian, alderman and .sheriff, as well as the most eminent historian of his time *. Tbe great fire, however, having levelled that, as well as other buildings ; the ingenuity of Sir Christopher Wren, re. built the present elegant fabric. It should be mentioned, that towards the rebuilding ofthe present church in 1672, considerable benefactions were re- ceived, among these the following are recorded : Sir John * Robert Fabian, author of the Chronicle of England and France, or, as he himself calls it, " The Concordaunce of Stories," was born in London, in the fifteenth century, and being brought up to trade,- became so considerable a merchant, that, he Was chosen an alderman, and, in 1493, one of the sheriffs. He was a man of learning for the times in which he lived; was skilled in Enghsh, Latin, and French poetry; but applied himself phiefly to history. Stow, in his 'f Survey of Lon don," has preserved the following verses, which were formerly upo^^^ Fabian's monument : " Like as the day his course doth consume. And the new morrow springeth again as fast ; So man and woman, by Nature's custorne, This life to passe, at last in earth are cast, In joy and sorrow, which here their time do waste. Never in one state, but in course tranjitory. So full of change, is of this world the glory." His Chronicle was first printed at London, in 1516; and afterwards in 1553, and is divided into two volumes folio; the first of which be gins with Brute, and ends at the death of Henry II. The second, which is the most valuable, -begins with Richard I. and ends at the twentieth of Henry VII. in 1504. Stow calls the work, " a painfulf labour, to the great honour ofthe city, and ofthe whole realm." Fa- fcian is very circumstatitial respecting the affairs of London ; and notices Several things relating to the government of that city, which are not to be met with elsewhere. We are, told, that cardinal Wolsey caused as many copies of this book to he could obtain to be burnt, because the au thor had liiade too clear a discovery of the large revenues of the clergy. Langham, . LONDON. 131 Langham, bart. 500/, Sir Jdin Mounson, 20/. Sir John Cutler, 20/. Sir Andrew Riccard, 100/. James Clitherow, 50/. and Mary Scottow, 20/. The walls were mostly stpne, with a camerated roof, the groyns and imposts are covered with lead, arid supported by columns of the; Tuscan order : the floor, several steps afoove the street, is paved with stone, and the chancel vvith marble. The building is divided into three aisles, on the south side of which are six light windows. The north side is blank. The arches of the church are enriched oh the key stones with shields. The pews and pulpit are of oak, and the altar-pi^ce, with two columns, entablature, and pediment of the Corinthian order, are highly ornamented. To cor respond, at the west end is an degant door case and gallery, in which is a good organ. The body is seventy feet long and sixty broad. The tombs of greatest note within the church, are those erected to the early branches of the noble family of Cowper. • But the peculiarity of this church is its stately tower, on« hundred and thirty feet high, containing twelve bells. The lower part of the tower occupies the centre, in St. Michael's Alley, and on each side there is a regular extent of building. The principal door opens in the lower stage of the fabric, which rises with angulated corners from the ground, farm ing a kind of base, terminated at the height of the body of the church. The second stage, which is plain and lofty, has two tall windows, one over the other, properly shaped ifor the style of the building, this is terminated by a Sara cenic cornice. The third stage is in the fqrm of the two, others, except that they are plain, and this is very much ornamented ; the angular corners are fluted, and ter minated by qlierubims heads under a cornice : the plain face between, has four windows in two series. Above the cornice, over the uppei-most of these windows, runs a battlement ; on the plain faces of the tower, and from the corners are carried up four beautiful fluted turrets, cased a part of their height with Doric turrets ; these terminate in pinnacle heads, fronii witliin each of which, rises a short spire, ornamented, with crotchets, crowqed with fanes, 3 Mr. m LONDON Mr. Ralph observes, " that this Gothic tcfwer is very magnificent, and justly deserves to be esteemed the finest thing of thatsort fn London *." In the church-yard were buried the grandfather, aud fa ther, (both named Thomas,) of John Stow, the hiftorian. "the will of Thomas, the elder, proves that the hifi-oriau of London, was of respectable ancestry.- It runs thus; and is a very curious document', descriptive of the superstitious manners of those times : • " In the name of God, Amen. In the year of our Lord God Mcccccxxvi, the last day of December, I Thomas Stow, citizen and tallow chandler, of London, in good and hole mynde, thanckes be to our Lord Jhu, make this my pre sent testament. Fyrst, I beijuayth my sopl to Jhu Chriit^ and to our blessed lady Seynt Mary, the Virgin, &c. My body to be buryed in the liteU grene church-yard, of the parysshe church of Seynt Myghel, in Cornehyll, betwene the crosse and the church wall, nigh the wall as may be, by my father and mother, systers and brothers, and also my own chUderne. " Also, I bequeith to the hye aulter of tbe foreseid church, foi'' my tythis forgeten, 1 'id. Item, to Jhus brother- hedde 12(/. I give to our lady's and seint brotherhedde, 12(/. I give to Seynt Cristofer and Seynt George, \2d. Alsoe,. I give to the vii. aultars, in the church aforeseyd, in the worship of the v^ii. sacraments every yere, during iii. yeres, 20d. Item, vsh. to have on every aultar a wacchyog candell, burning from vi. of the clocke, tyll it be past vii- in worship of v^ii. sacraments. And this candell shall be- gynne to burnc, aud to be set upon the aultar, upon AUha- lowen Day, tyll it be Candlemas Day following ; and it shall bee wacchyng candell of viii. in the pound. Also, I gyve to tbe brotherhedde of Clarcks, to dryncke, 20d-. also, I give to them that shall bayre me to church, evfery man 4f/. : also, I gyve to a pore man or woman, every Sunday in one yere, \d. to say v. ^r. nosters and Aves, and a crede, for my soule. Also, I gyve to the reparations of Foils (St. Paul's Cathedral) &d. : also, I will have vi. nue torches, and * Critical Revieiv of Public BuiMings, ¦ ii. tONDON. 13; ii; torches,of Seynt Myghel, and ii; of Seynt Anne, and ii. of Seynt Christofer, and ii. of Jhus, (Jesus,) of the best torchys. " Also, I bequeith Thomas Stow, my son, xx/. in stuff of howshold, as here foUoweth, that is to say, my grete melting panne, withal the instruments that bdongeth there to. Alsoj I bequeith my son Thomas, vi/. xiii,?. iiWd. in plate, as hereafter foUowith. Item, a nut of sylver and_ gylt, liiiiiA. 'inid. Item, a pounsed pece, weiing vi. ounces and more, xbA. Item, a mass of a pynt, xxvisA. v\\id. Item, a litel maser, xiiii//. iiiirf. Item, of this my present testament, I make Elizabeth, my wife, mine executrix, and Thomas Stowe, my son, my overseer, and Mr. Trendal, as a solicitor, with my son Thomas ; and he to have for his la bour, xiA."- This will is extracted from the office of the registrar to the bishop of London, Tunstal, fol. Ixxxix. b. and was proved on the 4th of AprU, 1527. ST. PETER, CORNHILL. Whatever attention may be paid to the evidently fabulous account of this church, as the seat of the ar- chiepiscopai see of London, it undoubtedly was a structure of great antiquity --as appears from the circumstance, that Vol. IL No. 3 3, S m I3t LONDON. in the reign of Hbnry III. an affray among some priests, occctsioned the murder of Amice, deacon of the church of St, Peter de CornhuU. A chantry was founded here, besides Other benefactions, by William de Kyngston, citizen and. fishmonger, 1275. Stow, however, ¦ relates, that the building, in his time, was of the ar'-hitecture of Edward IV. but that it had lately been repaired, nay almost rebuilt, except the steeple, which was very antient : Newcourt says, at the charge of 1 ,400/. Here was one of the principal grammar schools erected, in 1425, and Leland mentions a library which was originally constructed of stone; when that decayed, it was repair ed by brick-work, agreeably to the will of Sir John Crosby,, alderman ; but in Stow's time, the books were all dispersed, and a grammar school re-established. In the parish, were no less than, seventeen tenements be longing to chantries, which in the third of Edward VI. were all dissolved, ahd the premises sold. The advowson of the rectory was formerly in the disposal of the lords of Leadenball nianor, but having come into the possession of the corporation of London, by gift, they have ever since presented. The present edifice is substantial, plain, and neat; the body being eighty feet long, and forty-seven broad ; it is , forty feet high to the roof, and the height of the steeple is one hundred and forty feet. The body is enlightened by a single series of windows, except the east end, where the church forms a sort of front to Gracechurch Street. The tower is plain, having a small window in each stage, and the dome, which supports the spire, is of the lanthorn kind ; the spire is terminated by a fane in the form of a key. The interior ornaments most distinguishable, are a hand some carved screen, which divides the chancel from the body of the church, the altar-piece which has a stately appearance, and a neat gaUery at the west end, in which is a fine organ *. * Sir Benjamin Thorowgood, knight and alderman, in 16S2, built three shops at the west end of 'the church-yard, and settled them upon the parish for maintenance of the organ, and the organist to play upon it in the titne of Divine. Service, on Sundays and holidays, for ever.—' Nevjcourl's RiJiaioriunL 3 There LONDON. 135 There is a small monument to the memory of Dr. Buck, a pious and learned minister, who died in 1685. Underthe organ gallery is the following inscription; en graven on brass, the authenticity of which being doubted, must speak for itself : " Be hit known to all men, that the yeers of our Lord God, an. CLXXIX. Lucius, the fyirst Christen king of this lond, then caUyd Brytayne, foWndyd the fyrst chyrch in London, that is to sey, the chyrch of Sent Peter a,pon Corn- hyl ; and he fowndyd ther an archbishop's see, and made that chirch the metropolitan and cheef chirch of this king dom, and so eudureth the space of CCCC. yeerys and more, unto the commyng of Sent Austen, an apostyl of Englond, the whych was sent into the lond by Sent Gregory, the doctor of the chirch, in the tj^me of king Ethdbert, and then was the archbishoppys see and pol removyd from the aforeseyd chirch of Sent Peter's apon Cornhyl unto Derebernaum, that now ys callyd Canterbury, and ther yt remej'nth to this dey. " And Millet Monk, whych came into this lond wyth Sent Austen, was jnade the fyrst bishop of London, and hys see was made in Powllys chirch. And this Lucius, kyng, was the fyrst foundyr of Peter's chyrch apon Cornhyl ; and he regnyed king in thys ilond after Brut, MCCXLV. yeerys. And the 3'eerys of owr Lord God a CXXIV. Lucius was crownyd kyng, and the yeerys of hys reygne LXXVII. yeeyrs, and he was beryd aftyr sum cronekil at London, and aftyr sum cronekil he was beryd at Glowcester, at that plase wher the order of Sent Francys stan4yth." But no one can pass, without the tribute of a pitying sen sation, the monument erected over the remains of those who were consumed in the dreadful, fire at ^r. Woodmason's house in Leadenball Street, on Friday, January the 18 th, 1782*. , ' . ' After f This calamity vvas of so -remarkable and distressing nature, that we ore, and till 1546, when the back gate of Sir Martin Bowes, 3S we have mentioned before, opened into Cornhill, How ever, that it contained a residence of the king's, that the antient weigh-house was formed of the house of Sir Thomas Lovel*^, who had built it, and gave it tp the Grower's Com^ pany, * Sir Thomas LoveJ, was knight of the garter and treasurer pf the household to Henry VIII. His residence was at Worcesters, in Eitifield, where he died. May 25, 1324, and was buried in the priory of Hoh- v/ell, in Shoreditch, within a chapel which he had founded, Mr. Lyson's has given a curious account of the ceremonial of his funeral, copied from the original in the college of arins. After relating the ce remonies at Enfield, and the procession to London, the formula proceeds thus : " On the morrow, beyng Tuesday the7th day of June, the morners, with all the other, were at the forsaid parish churche by 7 ofthe clok in the morning, where all t,he thynges beyiig in a rediness, the rnasse vvas begon singing by the abbot of Waltam ; and at the offrygne, the chiefe raorner, with the other, offryd ; and so the masse fynisched, every man v^fent to horsback, and the chayre beyng prepared and redy, sett for- warde to London; and procedynge in manner as in the day before, came Ihrough the parische of the said Enfyld, Edmontfan, Tottenham, and Hackney; and every j>arische aforesaid had forthe churches, two loiige torches, four schochins, and 6s. 8d. in money ; and at the same Ed monton came for to mete the said corps, the venerable Father in God the .J.otd Cuthberd Tunstall, bushop of London, the lord of- Saynt John's^ Sir LONDOl^T. 139 pany, of which he was a member, are evident; and that it obtained its present name from a considerable corn market, is equally well founded. The Sir Richard Wyngfeld, Sir Henry Wyat, Sir John Dance, Sir Robert Johns, with manye other nobles and gentlemen; wher also did ir^eet the prestes and clerks, (he four orders of fryers, and 60 loiige torches borne by poure men ; and when they were sett ail in good order, preceded styl on thourough the highway which was by Shordyche-churche, untyll the gatts of his place at Hal5rwell, wher stode.'bn bothe syds the gentilmen of the innes of court, with certayn crafts of London ; and at the gatt stode the maior and all the aldermen of London ; and when they were comen to the chtlrch doer and every man alyghted from his horse, the corps was taken fron the chayre out of yt : aud ther was to ensens hym the foresaid abbot of Waltam, and the pryor of Saynt Marie Spyttell, bysyds London, and suffragan to the bushop of London,. havyng on their myters, and in pontificalibus ; and when he was ensensed, procedyd. through the body of the churche and the nonnes qiiyre, and so in the great quyre, where he was sett under a herse, havyng five pryncipalls, 15 morters with course lyghts, rachements, syde lyghts, and other lyghts, well furnyshchld with pencells and schochins accordyngly ; also, there was under the said herse and the corps, a majestic harigyng, over hit the dorpe, and at the four comers of it, . the four evangelistes, and four schochins of his armes, one at the side, another at the feet, and one on every syde ; and abowght the said herse was a valence fryngid, and with his words, Dieu soit loui, garnischid vvith his crest and bage, and hys armes ; and when he was under the herse, dirige began, and •all the clerks of London were ther to sing the said dirige, the wyche was solemiily done ; and iii the dirige, while the maior of London, with the aldermen, came and stode about the herse, rayles beyng spacious ynough from the herse haiigid with blak cloth, where they said de firo- fundis for the soule of the defunct ; and that endyd, they went their way, and when dirige was full endyd and fynyschid, with all the seretnonies accordyng, the morners with all other went home to the said place of Haliwell ; and so rested the body within the churche for that nyght, havyng v/atche ; and durynge the said dirige there was a drynkynge in. all the cloi places appointed, where it was disposed of every day ex cept Sabbaths and holidays ; the penny wheaten loaf being" tvvo ounces heavier than what was sold in the city. The bread was brought in long carts, and their stations were, three carts in Cheap, from the end of Gutter Lane to the end of Foster Lane ; one near the conduit in CornhiU ; and one in Gracechurch Street*. An exemplary punishment was in flicted ¦* An act of philanihrophy which has been before hinted at in the . preceding history, is worthy of more particular detail under this article. Sir Roger Acheley, mayor, in 1512, when he entered into his mayoralty, found not an hundred quarters of wheat in all the city, its liberties, and neighbourhood ; the scarcity indeed, wa« so great,th at when the Strat ford' bakers came into the city, they were in danger of their lives from tUiB.great pressure of the famished populace. But, to his lasting honour" be it recorded. Sir Roger made' such immediate and effectual ejdrtions, for ample supply, that the wheat came in amazing quantities, so as to weary both the London and Stratford bakers by their labour in housing it, at the same time that he compelled them to take more than they were- wiUing. What jejnajned, the mayor purchased, and stowed it in Leaden-- ' hally LONDON. 14^ flicted by Richard Reffeham, mayor, in the reign of "Ed ward II. on a baker named John of Stratford, for making bread less than the assize. The culprit was placed on a hurdle, his head ornamented by a fool's hood, and the de ficient loaves hung round his neck ; thus decorated, he was drawn through the streets of the city. The Stratford bakers left their former occupation in 15&S. ,To return to our subject. By tTie memorial that was pre- sented to the mayor and commonalty in 1519, it is evident, that this place had degenerated from its primary design. This is proved from the purpprt of the following memorial, wrhich also recites the antient and accustomed uses to which the fabric was appropriated: " Meekly beseeching, Sheweth unto your good lordship, and masterships, divers and many citizens of this dty, which with your favours, under correction, think, that the great place .called the Leadenball, should, nor ought not to be let to farm, to any person or persons, and especially to any fellowship or pompajiy incorporate, to have and hold the same hall for term of years, for such inconveniencies as thereby inay ensue, and £ome,to the buyt ofthe common-weal ofthe «aid city, in time to eonje, as somevyhat more largely may appear iu tbe articles liereafter foljowing.: " First, If any assembly, or hastj' gathering ofthe com mons of the said city, for oppressing or subduing of mis ruled people lyi thin the said city,' liereafter shall happen to be called or commanded by the mayor, aldermen, and other governors, and counsellors of the said city, fqr the tixi\^ being ; there is none so convenient, meet, and necessary a place to assemble in, within the said city, as the said Leaden- hall, both for largeness of room, and for their sure defence 'hall, and the. other cjty granaries. The benpvolence of this excellent magistrate went farther ; he kept the market so well, that he was con stantly at L^adenhall, at four o'clock in the morning, during the sum- jTtier, whence he proceeded to the other markets, and imposed such re gularity, that the year of his mayoralty was a year of comfort to his fel,- |ow citizens. Such actions may be recorded ; because they are seldom Imitated. ^ , T 2 in ui LONDON in tune of theu* codnseUing together about the premises; Also, in that place have been used the arrillery guns, and other common armour of the said city, to be safely kept in readiness, for the safeguard, wealth, and defence ofthe said city, to be had and occupied at times when need required ; as 'also the store of timber, for the necessary reparations of the tenements belonging to thp chamber of the said city, there comtnonly hath been kept. . " Item, If any triumph or noblesse were to be done or shewed by the commonalty of the said city, for the honour of our sovereign lord the king, and realm, and for the wor ship of the city ; the said Leadenball is the most meet and tonvenient place to prepare and order the said triumph therein, and from thence to issue forth to the places there fore appointed. Item, If any largesse or dole of any money, made unto the poor people of this city, by or after the death of any "Worshipful person within the said city, it hath been used to. be done and giyen in the said Leadenhall for thtit the said place is most meet therefore. ¦ - " Item, The honourable father, that was maker of the said Leadenhall, had a special will, intent, and mind, as it is com monly said, that the market men and women, that came tothe tity with victuals and other tilings, should have their free- -Standing within the said Leadenhall, in wet weather, to keep themselves and their wares dry ; and thereby to encourage them, andaU others, to have the better wiU and desire the more 'plenteously to resort to the said city, to victual the same: and, if the said hall should be let to farm, the will of the said honourable father should never be fulfilled, nor take effect. <' Item, If the said place, which is the chief fortress, and most necessary place within all the city, for the tuition and safeguard of the same, should be let to farm, out ofthe hands' of the chief heads of the same city, and espedally to any other body polit>ic, it might at length by likdihoocjs be occasion of discord and debate, between the said bodies. politic — which .God defend. *' fpr these, and many ^^r great and reasonable causes, whicl» LONDOIvr. us which liereafter shall be showed to this honourable court, your said beseechers think it muth necessary, that the said hall be stiU in the hands of this city, and to be surely kept by sad and discreet ofiicers in such wise, that it may always ,be ready to be used and occupied, for the common weal of the said city, when need shall require, and in no wise to be let to any body politic.^' This petition was so reasonable, and the observations so cogent, that the city complied with it, and thus Leadenhal^ was secured for that period. We have before mentioned, that vast interest was made to create this structure into a burse or exchange, but, without success ; that honour being ultimately transferred to Cbrnhill, by building the Royal Exchange. This was a place of superstitious mummery in 1 546. Dur ing the time that the unhallowed corpse of Henry VIII. lay in state in the chapel which his father had founded. Heath, bishop of Worcester, his almoner, distributed vast sums of monpy here, and in the several wards of the city, as weU as at Westminster, among the poor for twelve days ; as if their post mortem donations were to pay a safe passport to the pure regions of beatification, for one who had been perfi dious in every religious opinion ; who had sacrificed inno cence at the altar of jealousy ; who had defiled the land by the blood of martyrs ; and who had exhibited in most parts of his terrible reign the undisguised features of tyranny I In Stow's youth, Leadenhall vvas employed for the foUow- ,ing purposes : " In a part of the north quadrant, on the east side ofthe north gale, were the common beams for weighing wool, and other wares. On the west side of the gate were the scale*to weigh meal. - The otljer three sides were- re served, mostly, as repositories for the pageants for the pa rade ofthe city watch ; the residue of the building was em ployed for the stowage of woof-sacks 5 whilst the lofts were occupied by the artists who were engaged to ornament the -pageants." Having thus chronologically given the antient history bf this structure, it remains merely to state, that tUl lately, the front of the hall in the street, presented a very distinguished >nef inien of the mode of buildiog • adopted by our fore fathers 146 tONDON. •T fathers for many centuries past ; but this having given pfeca to a range of buildings of modern date, it is only necessary to add that Leadenhall Market is said to be 'more considerable for all kinds of provisions than any other in Europe. The hall, which forms a considerable part of it, is of great antiquity : it is a large building with flat battle ments, leaded at the top> and in the middle is a very spa. cious square. Here are the warehouses for leather, the Cd- Chester baize hall, the wool hall, and the meal warehouse. It is surrounded with sheds for butchers, tanners, &c. and as there is but little meat sold here, except beef, it is dis tinguished by the name of the Beef-market. This square is also a market for leather, b'aize, wool, &c. ; and it is hke wise a market for raw hides. Behind this market are two others separated by a range of buildings of a considerable length, with shops and rooms ou each side. In both these are principally sold small meat, as mutton, veal, Iamb, and pork; and sorne of tbe shops sell beef. In the easternmost of these markets, is a market-house with a clock aind bell tower on the top ; it is supported on . pillars, with rooms above, and vaults beneath ; and init are sold various kinds of provision. Beyond these is a very ,spacious market for poultry. There is also another called the Herb-qiarket, and is a very handsome square, the en trance to which is from Leadenhall Street. The passages into these markets from Lime Street and Gracechurch Street, are filled with dealers in provisions of various kinds. That part now called the Green Yard, was. formerly part -of the garden grounds belonging to the NevUs and their descendants, till it came into the hands of the city. In Ram Alley, are the remains of the antient coUegiatp chapel, which Sir Simon Eyre founded in 1419, over the porch of which he caused the foUowing motto to be cut •. '' Bextra Domini exaltavit 7ne." " The ri"-ht hand of thg Lord hath exalted me." He gave tliree thousand marks to the Drapers company, upon condition, thatthey should, within one year after his decease, establish p^rpeti\ally a njaster ^nd warden, fjve s^ cular n: ''y Mi' >m|yp*s. ¦,^* LONDON, 141 tilitar jprifests, six clerks, and two choristers, to sing daily Divine Service by note, for ever, in his chapd of Leaden hall; also one master with an usher, for grammar ; ' one mastev fbr writing ; and the third for song ; with. there newly "built houses for them for ever. , The master to have for his salary 10/. eyery priest 8/. every /clerk 5l. 6s. id. every cho rister five marks. If the Drapers refused to do this. within one year after his decease, then the three -thousand marks to remain to the prior and 'convent of Christ Church *, in Lon don, with condition to establish as aforesaid, within te-n years after his decease : and if they refused, then the thretf thousand marks to be disposed of by his executors, as they best could devise in works of charity. But this was not per formed, as to the establishing of Divine Service in the chapel or the free-school. And how the three thousand marks' were disposed of by^the executors, Stow says " he could never learn." In 1466, however, ^ hcence was obtgiined from Edward IV^. by authority of which was founded a fraternity ofthe Trinity, of .sixty priests, beside other brethren and sisters, by WU liam Rouse, John Risby, and Thomas Ashby, priests ; s,ome of the. sixty priests were every day in the afternoon, to ce lebrate divine service within the chSpel, to such of the market people as chose to resort there to prayer. They also had an knnual meeting, a solemn service, and a! procession of all the brethren and sisters. This foundation, in 1512, was con firmed to the sixty priests and .their successors, by an act of common council ; Ihis confirmation was at the will of the mayor and conimonalty. This sacred edifice shared the fate of others of the same nature ; but it is even now, a respec table ruin. Returning into Leadenhall Street, and passing the house of Messrs. Richardson and Stephenson, stationers, on which stood Mr. Woodmason's house, a scene of domestic calamitjf already mentioned, we arrive at THE EAST INDIA HOUSE. , It is easy to imagine what a task it would be to attempt at the history of a company, one of whose reports is extended * Now called Crce Church. 11$ LONDON. to sixty volumes; v^e shall, however, give an outline. Tfce East India Company was first established by a charter granted by the politic Elizabeth in 1601. The first subscription for. carrying on the proposed trade amounted at that time to 739,782/. 10,?. ; which, by an additional subscription of 834,826/: completed a stock of 1,574,608/. lOs. -, with this capital a commerce was established, by the Red Sea to Arabia; as well as to Persia, India, China, and several of, the East India islands. In 1620, the articles imported sold at the following. prices: — In India. In England. A book of muslin, 20s. - - 30s. and 40,r. Surat satins, iOs. per pair - 3/. Taffata quilts - - - - from 10/. to 20/. Raw silk 205. ^er pound. Indigo - _ - _ - 6s. 8d. per pound. Long pepper - - - -2s. per pound *. ' The commencement of Cromwell's usurparion was unpro^. pirious to the welfare of the infant company ; for upon a- suggestion that an open East India trade would be advan tageous to the nation, that commerce became general, and so continued till 1657, when the absurdity and injustice of the * The consequences attendant upon new establishments, were very evident in the concerns of this company, as appears by a petition which -was presented to James I. by Mr. Bragge, in vvhich, after stating his se veral grievances, he claims 6S75/. Some ijf his items were singular; but they do credit to his heart. He chargfes for thirteen negroes, or In- ffianpeoploi — " Well,'.' he continues, " for the estimation of these poor souls, th?y are not to be valued at any price. The cause why, I will, shew imto you. Because the Lord Jesus hath suffered death as well for t|iem as for. ail you. And therefore I will not reckon the price of Chris- iivis. For, in time, tbe Lord may call them to he true Christians; the which I tnOst humbly beseech." " F6r"twenty dogs and a great many cats, which, under God,- ridA away and devoured all the rats, (in an island belonging to the compstny)i which formerly eat up all the corn, aijd many other blessed fruits which ' the land afforded;" "well," says he, " for these I viill demand but 5/. a piece:for the dpgs ; and let the cats go," Mss. Reg, Bf. Mus. 17 Bi 6. *V.iLr' . - .,;> ionavatioU; 5 LONDON. 149 hi'novatidn being perceived, as weH as the disadvantages of a Separate trade, the whole reverted to ^the coitapahjr from which it had been unjustly wtested. The.trarisactions ofthe company could not, however, havd been of aiiy considerable importance Eit this period ; and ait effectual stop was put to their concerns by the troubles of the Civil Wars.. The reign of Charles II. formed a new compariy, to whicli the acquisition bf Bombay, as part of the dowry of queen Catharine of Portugal," was of great importance. Yet this trade, duritag the^ reigns of Charles and his Succcssoif James II. could never have been intended for any other than a veiry liinited prosecution, as the company was ctrcUhii scribed to siic good ships and six good pinnaces to be em ployed therdn. So that dtbei* the utility of the trade ihiist have been veiy strongly suspected, or there M^ere some se cret iTlotives for fettetirig in such a manner So inijDbrtant an undertaking ; which, if good in its nature, could not have! been prosecuted too far *. But, whatever were the motivesi for such a regulation, there appears a rational grouhd foi?' supposing, that the trade was not carried on with any ma terial degree of spirit during those inauspicious reigns. The shares or subscriptions of this vast establishment were originally only 50/. sterling ; but the directors havdhg a cbii- siderabl6 dividend to make in 1676, it was agreed to join the profits to the capital, which had been reduced to 369,891/. ^Si * It may appear strange, that the constitution of England should be 50 greatly strained, if not violated, for the''sake of establishing a 00™-" mercial motiopoly, and at the same time» that there should be sucji very limited degrees preScriljed to its' operations. But Portugal in those d,3ys had recovered her independence, and India still c^ntinufed to te a great objeft with her. One of the national bribes to the marriage of Charles with the Infanta Catharine, was ths surrender, of Bombay to this king dom : anditishotiaiprobable that Charles, who was always in want of money, had A secret' present given him to render the acquisition of ai little importance as possibie'} .vi^hich he did' by limiting the -very trade 0^ the company; though they had likewise paid' him for granting them hi« exclusive charter. Vol. il No. 34. U by 150 LONDON. by this plan, the, shares were doubled, and the capital in 1685, augmented again to 1,703,402/. But a pecuUar enemy had also arisen in the person of James, Duke of York ; and although the establishment was ascertained and vindicated in the clearest manner by Sir Josiah ChUd, and other equally able advocates; yet the duke's partiahty for the African trade, tbe losses the com pany had sustained in wars vvith the Dutch, and the revolu tions which bad happened in the political economy of In- dostan, were such collective checks, that the ardour of the company's supporters was completely damped ; so that at the Revolution their finances were in a very precarious situa tion : this was. in a great measure owing to want of parha mentary sanction, in consequepce of which the stock had often sold for one half less than it was really wortji. Those who.obtained the first charter, which was granted by William and Mary, were so languid in their measures, as to give encouragement to the establishment of a new com pany ; but the little success of preceding companies, from what causes soever it might happen, served rather to dis courage than animate a new one to spirited undertakings ; there is great reason therefore to suppose that the East India trade of this country had always been extremely insignificant ; but at last, after many pariiamentary enquiries, the new sub scription prevailed, and the subscribers, upon advancing 2,000,000/. tothe public at eight per cent, obtained an act pf parliament in their favour. The interest which tbe old company sustained in parha ment and in the nation was a constant source of feud ; and the act being found defective, the most violent struggle arose between the two establishments*. The precarious ness * In the early periods of the East India trade it appears, that the English, as well as all otb«S*European adventurers, used to trade freely inland, under the protection of the Mogul government • transporting their gpodsin the carriages of the country, called hackeries, to the most interior parts of Indostan^ where they carried on a considei'able trade in many articles, particularly .indigo, which used to answer very well be fore. LONDON. 151 ness of separate interests, however, suggested an union ; and, in 1702, the two companies were consolidated into one body. Ih the year 1708, the yearly fund of eight per' cent. for 2,000,000/. was reduced to five per cent, by a loan of 1,200,000/. to the public, without any additidnal interest ; for wliich consideration the company obtained a prolongation of its exclusive privileges ; and a new charter vvas granted' to them, under the title of The United Company of Mer chants trading to the Eas'T Indies. In the distressful year bceasipned by the South Sea scheme, this company took 9,000,000/. of the South Sea stock, at 120/. per 100/. and a premium for its management. The imports from 1717 to 1720, upon the single article of tea, amounted to 1,388,449/. fore the cultivation of that plant in Arnerica. But upon the confusion introduced after the subversion and dismembering of the empire, the security of merchants became extremely precarious ; and they were made subject to great impositions in the provinces or nabobships, through which they passed. This was indeed so much the fact, that both com panies, while they continued separate, often experienced great incon- -(^eniencies from their agents going into the interior parts of the country to transact their business ; when they were 'to pay considerable sums to the Mogul governors, or nabobs, for their releasements, foraccomiiiOr dations' of dis.putes, or for reparation of injuries, sometimes real, but perhaps much oftener pretended. Therefore, after the uniting of the two, companies, when their affairs became reduced' to a more regular system, it wa-s made a general rule, riot to permit any who were in their service, or under their jurisdiction, to go far into the inland country, without leave first obtained from the governor and council of the place at which they resided. There had been, however, at all times, many persons who resided and traded in dilferent parts of the inland cotmtry, who were subject to their respective laws : but being acquainted with 'the Indian languages and,customs, they either took care to keep them selves out of scrapes with the natives, or having got into them, extri- ' cated themselves therefrom in the best manner they could, from knowing they had no kind of claim to the interference of those who acted for the company. Such restrictions on travelling as have been mentioned were certainly necessary and prudent with regard tothe servants of, and de pendents on the company, while the country continued in so unsettled a ft-ite. — Bolt's Consideration on India 'Affairs. U 3 'The 15? LONDON. The immense power which the company had obtained in India, and the influence it created in the scale of polirics, at last excited the jealousy and the enquiries of parliament. The conduct of the servants of the company was strictly scrudnized, and many censures passed. But the most ma terial transactions which affected their affairs commenced in 1783, during the coaliriph ministry. The distresses occa- .sioned to the company by the military operations of Hyder Ally, "^nd his son Tippbo Saib, bad completely harrassed thdr colonial concerns ; and the utmost difficulty- subsisted for the management of these unwieldy possessions. They . ivere indeed so embarrassed that the most upright minister must have combated unprecedented labour, to reduce their circumstances to any kind of regular system. The plan, however, suggested by the coalition ministry, had more of personal advantage, than the principles of patriotism. This plan, ascribed to the genius of Burke, was brought into parliament, under the name of a bill " for vesting the af, fairs of India in the hands of certain commissioners, &c." jand proposed " the annihUation of the court of directors, the whole government of India to be in the hands of seven pommissioners, for four years, the directors to be removed for any -specified cause, the commissioners in the first /in stance to be named by the whole legislature, and all futurq vapg,ncies to be filled by the sovereign, the directors to be, diosen by the court of proprietors, to be entitled to 5Q0/,' per annum each from the company ; but to have no place under the company or government." By these means tha whole India patronage would have been vested in the seven commissioners.. When this bill was introduced into pariia ment it occasioned violent discussioq. It vvas censured, in the first instance, as a wanton violation of chartered rights ; ^nd, in the second, as an infraction of the general prin ciples of the constitution ; considering that tlie charter of the East India Company was a fair purchase, made from the public, and afi, equal compact for reciprocal advantciges between the proprietors and the nation at large. The bill passed the J.owev House, but was rejected in the Upper; and, LONDON. 153 aad, in the end, it was productive of the dissolution of Mr. Fox's ministry. Lyttletouj in the third volume of the History of England^ cletails the consequent measures of government respecting the East India Company in a very iUustrative and satisfac-. tory manner. Upon- Mr, Pitt's accession to the administration of the country, the affairs of the East India Company formed one of the first objects of his attention. In the parliament of 1784, he introduced a "bill for the regulation of the India Com pany." By this bill, commissioners were to be appointed by his ma.jesty from the members of the privy council, who were authorized /o check, superintend, and' controul all acts, opera^ tions, and concerns which in any wise, relate to the civil or' Tnilitary government or revenues of the snid India Com pany. It stipulated also, that they should have access to all papers or documents ; that they should inspect all dis patches, and that the Court of Directors Jliould be. bound in all instances to obey the orders and directions of the said- board. The nomination of commander inr chief was vested in bis majesty ; also the power to remove at pleasure the governors and members of the councils, the vacancies of which Were to be filled by the company only with the ap probation of the king, who, in case of any neglect of no-* minating within a hmited time, vvas himself empowered to make the appointment. The principal feature in , which this differs from the. former bill, is, that in one the power was vested in commis sioners appointed by parliament";Tn the latter, by commis sion under the controul of the crown. The rights of the company were however equally sacrificed. The court of directors, and the company themselves, were made the very instruments ; in the latter instance,, of enslaving them selves, by voluntarily surrendering those privileges in one instance, vvhich they bad so strenuously contended for in- another. Mr. Pitt's bill, though it was rejected on the pre*. sent occasion, afterwards passed. into a law; and thus, in a. surprizing degree, was increased the influence of the crown ; 154 LONDON. crovvn ; and thus were rendered the commercial interests of the city of London dependent on those with whom her inde pendence was of the utmost consequence. In this state the company continued till the year 1793, when the acrimonious spirit of faction having abated its rancour, the concerns of this vast mercantile corporation again engaged the attention of government. The right ho nourable Mr. Dundas, the president of tbe Board of Con-' troul, moved in the House of Commons for a renewal of the company's charter ; and stated for his reasons, " that- the company then employed eighty-on6 thousand tons of shipping, and seven thousand pi-ime seamen, imported fo reign commodities estimated at 700,000/. exported British' goods to the amount of 1,000,000/. paid 1 ,000,000/. in revenue to government; and, if to the value of the im.. ports through their capital were added the imports in con-. sequence of fortunes remitted home by individuals, the ag gregate would be 1,500,000/. ; so that, upon the whole, the. trade in every shape added annuaUy 7,000,000/. to the cir culation of the country." : The plan of the new charter was, that besides the presi-, dent, two commissioners, not privy counseUors, and having a salary of 5000/. among the three, should be appointed ;• and to counterbalance this addition to the influence of the. crown, that the appointment of the vice-treasurers of Ire-^ ¦ land should be transferred, to tbe Irish government ; and tlio constitution of the Supreme Council to remain unaltered. He proposed, also, that the company should be obliged to provide shipping at a moderate rate of freight for all British^ adventurers, and to bring home the fortunes of individuals: in raw materials, or in any other mode settled by- the' parties. " By this plan," adds he, " the public and pri-' vate interest will be consulted ; without endangering the' company's trade, or risking actual for imaginary good, the. bill will be left open to hardy speculators for experiment to add to our exports and imports, to render London the gratnd emporium for the distribution of Indian cojnmodi- tie:^ LONDON 155 ties to the rest of Europe, and to pour the riches of the Ganges iuto the river Thames." Upon these principles the charter was renewed for twenty- one years, and by which. the East India Company is at present governed. The more immediate government, sub ject to the Board of Controul, consists of a chairman; his deputy, and twenty-two directors, who may be re-elected in turn, six each year, for four years successsivelyi The qualification for a director is 2000/. The chairman and directors ha; ve a yearly salary for their attendanceV which must be at least once every week, or as occasion requires; the body thus assembled is denominated " The Court of Directors." Out of this body are chosen several com mittees, who have the peculiar inspection of certain branches; of the company's business, and are thus divided, a com mittee bf correspondence, a committee of buying, a com mittee of treasury, a house committee, a committee of warehouses, a committee of sbipiping, a committee of ac counts, a committee of lawsuits, arid a pommitte'e to pre vent the growth of private trade ; who have under- them a secretary, cashier, 'clerks, and warehouse keepers. In this company a proprietor of stbck, to the amount of 1 000/. whether male or female, native or foreigner, has a right to be a manager, and to give a vote in the general council. The amazing territorial acquisition of the East India Company, has been computed at two hundred and eighty- two thousand square miles, containing thirty millions of people, under the Indian government ; added tq this the late acquisitions from Tippoo, and the 'wonderful cind ex tensive commerce with China ; we may with great truth say l^at in antient or modern history, this mercantile fabric has no paralldl ¦ ''¦' It ought not to escape notice that in 1796, the company furnished, for the exigencies of the state, 3,000,000/. ; and maintains, cloaths, and trains three regiments of soldiers for the national defence, from among the numerous servants it' employs in the vUrious warehouses. EAST J5g LONDON.^ EAST INDIA HOUSE. Before we describe this magnificent fabric, we shall no« tice a few anecdotes concerning the structures which an tiently occupied riie ground on which it stands. The first of these was called the Green Gate, belonging to Michael Pistoy, a Lombard, who hdd this tenement and nine shops in the reign of Richard II. It came afterwards into the. possession of Philip Malpas, alderman and sheriff in 1439. This gentleman gave 120/. to poor prisoners; and every year, for five years, four hundred and three shirts and shifts, forty pair of sheets, and one hundred and fifty gowns of good frize to paupers ; one hundred marks as maiTiage portions ; one hundred marks for repairing high ways; and to five hundred poor persons in London, 6s. Sd. each, beside other benefactions. But though so good and benevolent a magistrate, his house did not' escape plunder to a considerable value, by Cade and his rebels. In th® reign of H^nry VII. it was seized by the king ; but for what xea^on we are not informed. Henry VIII. granted it to John Mutas, a Frenchman, who harboured many of his coun trymen to calender -' Wolsteds," and com mitted, many ob noxious acts to the detriment of the citizens. These caused the riot of Evil May Day in 1517, when the apprentibes spoUed the house; and would have murdered Mutas, had they found him. The executions that followed this riot were as dr^f^fuliis the riot itself. Sir Philip Mutas,. his son, s(,ftei-wards sold the premises, part of which was lately standing. To this adjoined the mansion built by Alderman Kirton, in the reign of Edward VI. It afterwards came into tbe possession of Sir Alderman Lee, lord mayor at the accessiofl, of Queen Elizabeth, who rebuUt it. Sir William Craven* lord mayor in 1610, having purchased the building, en larged it in a handsome manner. This was the structure ¦which Sir William's son> the -great Lord Craven, let, or otherwise disposed of, to the first India; company. The con trast between this hall, which was standing in 1726, and the jye^^nt building, is v6ry curious. &¦ A house LONDON. -151 A hpuse next to. this was the, antient residence of the. noble family of Zouch, tbe branchj^s of which distinguished themselves by their loyalty in the !3aron5' wars during the reign of Henry III. and by their prowess at the battle of Cl'essy. Edward, tbe last representative of this family,' was appointed j^mbassador to Scotlai^d by Giucen Elizabeth, tp paUiate hpr conduct-to the unfortunate Quqen Mar}'. He was at th^t p^is lieutenant of North and 'South Wales, and the Marches; and, in the reign of James I. was •appointe4 constable of Dpver Castle, and warden of the Cinque Ports. ? ^ ^ Th6 corner of Lime Street vVas a great messuage, called Benbridge's inn ; most probably a corruption of Brembre, from Sif Nicholas Brembre, lord mayor, vvho was beheaded during the troublesome reign ol Richard II. Nearly ad? joining to whicl,; was another house in Lime Street, formerly, belonging to the NcvUs ; but afterwa,rds inhabited b}- Sir Simon de Burley, who was in such favour wi'th Edward the Black Prince, for his valour, his wisdom, his loyalty, and his .other amiable perfections, that the prince commit ted to him the gpyernment and education of his only son Richard II. who, on his accession to the crown, ad vanced Sir Simon to various high dignities; and took his advice in a,!! matters of state; had the king followed that advice, the national concerns might have beqn prosperous.. He was at the same time vipe-chamberhtin to the king, con stable of Dover Castle, lord warden of the Cinque Ports, knight of the garter, &c. The obstinate conduct of his sovereign, together with the condemnable favoritism wdiich he evinced tpwurds Robert de Vere, earl of Oxford, and duke of Irdand, however, raised sUch jealousies among the disaffected nobility, as involved the country in anarchy and rebellipn But Sir Simon continuing loyal to his sovereign, vvas sacrificed to Richard's folly and De Vere's oppressive measures, and incurred equ-al hatred .from their opponents ; the consequence to this gentleman was, an impeachment in parlianient, copdemnation for treason, and decapitation on Tower HiU. _A iiiartyr tp the machinations of iniquitous times '. Vol. n. No, 34, X The ' 158 LONDON. 1 The building preceding the present, and of which it only extended the breadth of the west wing, was erected in 1726 ; but though probably elegant as the residence of a single director, it was unequal in grandeur as the edifice of the opulent corporation to which it belonged*. Such con siderations induced the construction of the present East India House, of which We are about to give an account. The front consists, of a centre, and two wings. The centre forms a portico, with a pediment resting on six fluted Ionic pillars. The tympanum of the pediment describes various emblems of commerce, protected by George III. in alto relievo, who extends a shield over them in. his rz^A^ hand, implying bis desire to shield commerce, rather than to wield the lance of war. Above the pediment is a fine statue of Britannia; and on the east and west corners are Asia, seated on a dromedary, and a beautiful figure of Europe. The principal entrance forms a recess from the portico,, with a handsome pediment and two win dows on each side. The wings are plain, except the base ment vvindows, which are arched ; above there are others of a square foym. The two wings are surmounted by a hand some balustrade. The interior is commenced by a spacious hall, whence a long passage extends in a south direction, on each side of wfhich are apartments and ofiices, the whole terminated by a court room surrounded also by various offices. The grand Court Room, on the right of the passage, is very superb. The eastern side of the wall is nearly filled by a beautiful chimney-piece bf the finest marble Tbe corii'.ce is supported by two caryatides of white, on pe destals of veined marble ; these, with the brackets, &c. also of white, form a beautiful contrast. But the principal beauty of this room is the fine design on bas relief of Bri tannia sitting on a globe, under a rock by the sea shore, lool.ing towards the east ; her right hand leans on an Union shield, whUst ber left holds a trident ; and her head is de corated by a naval crown. Behind her are two boys, one, regardful of her, as he leans on a cornucopia ; the other, diverting LONDON, 159 diverting himself with the flowing riches. Britannia is at tended by female figures, emblems of India, Asia, and Africa ; the first, in a reclining posture, presenting a casket of jewels; the second, holding in her right hand an in cense vessel, emblematical of her spices ; and in her left, the bridle of a camel ; the third, ber head covered by the usual tokens of her produce, and her left hand on the; head of a lion. Old father Thames, with his head crowned with flags, holdidg in his right hand a rudder, and in his left a cornucopia, fills up the group ; whilst the distance displays^ mercantUe labour aad ships riding on the ocean. Over the Whole are the arms of the company elegantly ornamented ; and above the handsome doors, on each side, are panneU on which appear good pictures of Fort St. George, and Bombay. The liorth side is decorated by a large folding door of polished mahogany, enriched by Corinthian columns; on each side are fine mirrors, orUamented with white and gdd ; above these are mathematical instruments, and pannels with views of St; Helena, and the Cape of Good Hope- The .west exhibits a grand Corinthian portico, with an ele- . gant clopk, and mirrors, and views of Fort William, and Tellichery. The south side has two ranges of windows. The toiif ensemble of architecture in this room is excel lent ; and an uncommonly fine Turkey carpet covers the whole iflooring. From this, on the south east, is an opening to the Com mittee Room ; in which, over a beautiful marble chimney piece, is kn exceUent portrait of General Lawrence*. * Stringer Lawrence, Esq. from his earliest youth, was ex ceedingly anxious to acquire military glory. Whilst a subaltern in the army, he gave repeated proofs of his courage in the war between Great Britaiij and Spain in 1739, till fhe peace in 1748. The loss of Madras' in 1'74S, had rendered the affairs of the East India Company in the Car- natic ih a perilous state, aiid it required an officer of spirit, fortitude, and integrity, to preserve" the company froni ruin by the intrigues and enterprifes of the Indian chiefs in the French interest. Mr. Lawrence, who had by this time risen to the rank of major, was appointed in the eame year. X 3 The 160 LONDON. The Old Sale Room is entered from the Court Room by the great north door. The west end of this apartment is circular. Here are three niches, containing marble statues of Lord Clive, Admiral Sir George Pococke, and Major GeneiaLLawrence, in Roman habits, all dated 1764. An excellent statue of Sir Eyre Coote, in his regimentalsi, also graces the room. ¦ For the accommodation of bidders, there is a considerable Ascerit of steps to the east ; and on the top is a statdy Doric doJonade. In the room for the Committee of Correspondence, is a portrait of Marquis CornwaUis, in a general's uniform ; ahd another of Warren Hastings, Esq. These pictures are, on each side of a handsome inlaid cbiUfmey piece. The por trait of the famous nabob of Arcot ; and another of thfe same class, decorate the nort'h. and south ends, and afford a striking contrast to the pliin dress ¦ of Mr. Hastihgs.^-fln this room are also the following views,, :pairited by "\¥krdj, exhibiting iwtcreifing specirhens of Indian architecture: a view of Trichinopoly ; a ' curious rock, ciSUed Viri MaUi; the ba:th of the Bramins, in Chil}imbrum>; Madura, tothe The many brillant actions in vvhich lie was, successful on the -coast of Coromanddl, the discipline he established, the fortresses he protected, the sehlements he e'xtefided, the French and Indian arftiies'*he 'de feated, and the peacs which he contiluded in the Garnatic, Iri'Hie year 1766, are detailed in an ample manner : suffice it here to say, Ihgt th* future successes of Lord. Clive, and Sir Eyre Coote, were ovvingtohisin- strucfions, whilst they served-under him. An Hinusual credit, however, is attached to Major L&wrence, for after all his labours, he returned to England without being a tiab'oj) ; this is peculiarly to his honour, considering the many opportunities liis situation oifered, of amassing immehse vv^alth ; but Tie 'd'etesi eel' ava rice and rapacity; and his riches in retirement vvas exceedin^y mo derate. He did not long enjoy the otium cum dignitate. His ideath, which pro ceeded in a great measure from the fatigues, he had suffered in the ser vice of his country, was esteemed a public loss ; and the company were so sensible of their obligations to hun, that t'hey caused a iioble monu ment to be erected to his memory in Westminster Abiey. cast ; LONDON. > 161 east ; Tippy Colum ; Tanks, a"nd ' mausoleum of the Seer Shaw ; Choultry of Seringham ; south entrance ' to .the' Pa goda at that place ;". besides views of Choultry's. The Nexv Sale Room, is a very fine specimen of the abi lities of Messrs. Jupp and HoUand ; and is lighted from the cieling. It is orBahaeoted with pilasters, and contains se veral paintings illustrative of Indian, and other commercial attributes. TherC'is a peculiar convenience attached to this apartment ; by means of subterraneous conveyance, the whole is rendered warm during the sales, in the coldest weather. Over part' of these rooms is The'Libraty, a wonderful collection of "what is interesting a,nd curious in ilndian and other literature. The books are contained in large presses, projectinginto-the repository. Under the whole prbmises are very extensive store rooms ^nd cellars. In these are deposited va^t quantities of ma^rera, and the choicest vvines of Indian vintage. T?a'virig already 'mentioned Lime Street, the west side of which is occupied by the Offices and warehouses of the East Inftia'Contpany, We observ^ that in the reign of Edward I,. it' contained a royal. mansion, denominated the King's: Artirce. Bistwixt Lime Street and E'Uiter Lane, previously tq the year 13^0, was a'large garden plat, inclosed from the street by a brick wall, vvhich Jjeing taken down, and th«? ground dug for cellarage, a discovery vvas. made of another vvali, Vvith an, arched stone gateway ; the gates, which', had been bf timber, towards the street, were wlioily consumed ; jbut the iron hinges and staples remained,' and bars of iron vv£re attached to the frames of the remaining square' windows. This wall was twelve feet under ground ; and, as Stow inia-, gined, was the ruin of a mansion which was burht in the. reign of king Stephen ;. the file having begun near London Stone, and consumed the city eastward to Aldgate. On the opposite side of t.he street is the church of 5 . ST 162 LONDON. ST. ANDREW UTSTDERSHAFT. ^^tn^BK^^ Illilil liii THIS building stands at the north-west corner of Aldgate •ward ; ahd is nearly obscured from Leadenhall street, ex cept, the tower, by houses. It receives its surname from a May-pole, which was usually set up in the middle of the street, and was higher than the tower. It was, however, discontinued after the riot of Evil May Day 1517, and laid along under the petit-houses of an alley, called from that circumstance Shaft Alley. The reformation of religion in the reign of Edward VI. was fatal to this Shaft, for the cu rate of St. Catharine Cree church, inveighing against all re- liques of idolatry, in a sermon at Paul's Cross, condemned the May-pole so effectually, that the inhabitants^ on the very Sunday afternoon that the sermon was preached, as sembled in great numbers, dragged the idolatrous pole from its hiding place, where it had rested thirty-two years, and sawed it in pieces, each reformer taking, for his share of the'booty, as much of the idolatrous spoil as had lain along the breadth of his house, and reduced this mark of supersti tion to ashes. In records, this church was also, called St. Andrew upon CornhiU. The former fabric was certfiinly built -before the year 1399, as is proved by a deed concerning a piece of ground LONDON. 165 ¦ground let from the church yard by William Gibton, rector, for the term of ninety years, at an annual rent of fou|- shil- ings sterling, subject to distress and re-entry upon non payment. Part of this rent was to go to the rector ; the rest to be appropriated, to tbe use of the fabric, of the body of the church ; and after the expiration of the said term, the said piece of ground, and whatever was built thereon, was to revert to the rector., churchwardens, find parishioners, and their successors for ever. The present structure was raised by means of Sir Stephen Jennings, lord mayor, in 150.8, and the parishioners, during the year 1520. Sir Stephen was at the expence of erecting the north side of the middle aisle, both of the body and the choir ; he also roofed the north aisle with tiniber ; besides glazing the -.whole of the south side, and causing the pews to be made at his sole cost. This benevolent man died in 1524, and was buried in the Grey Friars church. This of St. Andrew was not finished till the year 1532 *. Here we must necessarily mention something of the church of St. Mary at Axe. This building, so called from its situation opposite the Axe inn ; as well as St. Mary Pelliper, from a neighbouring' plot of ground belonging to tbe Skinners Company, stood on the west side of St. Mary's Street, now called St. Mary Axe. It originaUy belonged to the prioress and convent of St. Helen," till its dissolution ; after which, in consequence of its surrender to the crown, it was neglected, till Q,ueeri Elizabeth, in 1561, united it to the parish of St. Andrew, and granted the patronage to the bishops of London. In,163'l, the parishioners of St. Mary having built a room over the lower part remaining of their church, which had, Ijy this time, been converted to prophane uses, obtained a confirmation from bishop Juxon, that the ground might be * The author of the New View of London writes, that " this church, was new built, and in the year 1S32, finished at the charge, for the most part, of William Fitz Williams, Esq. (sheriff of London in the year 1506), aiid afterward of council ..to king Henry VIII." Butwedo not find such notice by any other editor. restored -1€4 LOKDON. restored as a burial, ground, and the roonj established 9>S;4 free grammar school:, the;, master to be nominated by the rector, churchwardens, and parishioners, and licenced by the ordinary. He was tQ teach four poor chUdren belonging to this parish gratis ; and in consideration of this duty, the room was appropriated to him rent free. In 1741, the school was leased to the trustees of Cornhiil and Lime Street w^rds society, at a pepper-corn rent, .and renewed in 1761. In 1756, St. Andrew Undershaft church was totally hid from Leadenhall S* eek bv a house, under whii;h an entry was made to the pc.-cr: , jr.ut, by an order of vestry, theob- strution was removed, so that the tower is now seen. The length of this beautiful church is about ninety-six foot, breadth fifty-four, and height forty-two.. The altitude of the square tower, in which are six bells, is about seventy- three foot and one-twentieth ; and to the top of the turret ninety-one feet. There is no beauty in this' part of the building. The north side has a small space of ground, whence only the outside may be seen. It has a range of windows, which are Gothic; and a Sexagon iower rises from the middle of the Wall. The east end is entirely closed from view. On the south side is the 'principal door, with-a pointed arch, tbe angles ornamented with quatrefoUs, &c. ; and the window at the west end of the church is' obscured by the organ. The interior displays ranges of delicate .slender pillars, sup porting arches equally delicate, and truly proportioned. The cieling is decorated with angels, holding shields, vases, and scrolls, in the compartments. Over the pillars the angles are beautifully painted in imitation of basso, relievq, from circumstances of the life of Christ. These were the gift of Mr. Tombes, otherwise a considerable benefactor. These are lighted by a range of upper windows, between which are statues in fresco. A fine glow of blue tint is produced by the painted glass introduced into the east window at a late repair. The whole structure is divided into a nave, and north and south ailes. The roof of the chancel is covered by a good painting, representing the heavenly choir in adot ration, LONDON. 163 ration, with voices and instruments. This was also a gift by Mr. Tombes. Reclining figures, painted to imitate a rustic basement, ornament the sides of the chancel ; above is a Corinthian buUding, and in the intercolumniations are land scapes and architecture. The altar is a magnificent design of the Corinthian order ; a rich crimson curtain, fringed with gold, painted in grand folds, and with hovering angels, &c. ornaments this part of the church. The east window is beautifully fiUed with stained glass, and divided into five compartments ; containing whole length portraits o^ Ed ward the Sixth, Queen Elizabeth, James the First, Charies the First, and Charles the Second, nearly as large as life. A figure of St. Andrew, " lately finished, and placed in an upper compartment of the same window, serves tp shew the progress which that art has made at the close of the eighteenth century. , ; Under King Edward is an open book, inscribed Fer bum Dei, and the royal arms. This window was the gift of Sir Christopher Clitherow. The pulpit is without a sounding board, and is a very beautiful specimen of delicate carving. The organ, built by Harris, and, which cost 1400/. is large and handsome : th^ gaUery on which it stands is the only one iir the church ; the front is placed on the west end of the nave, under the gallery. The windows have fortyrfour coats of arms of founders and benefactors : the last window, on the south side, is painted as though it were closed ; and were it not for the situation, it might almost prove a deception. The monuments in this parish church ; which escaped the fire are numerous, and remarkable. Stow mentions the fol lowing : Mr. Philip Malpas, sheriff in 1439 ; Sir Robei-t Denne and his son, in 1421 ; Mr.. Nicholas Levison, one of the sheriffs, in 1534 ; Mr. Stephen Kyrton, alderman in 1552; Mr. David Woodroffe, sheriff in 1554; Mr. Stephen Woodroffe, his son; Mr. Thomas Starkey, sheriff in 1578; Hugh Offley, sheriff in 1588 ; and Henry Man, D. D. bishop of Man. The principal monuments at present are a large marble monument for Sir Thomas Offley, knight and alderman of Vol. II. No. 34. Y London, 166 LONDON. London, with his wife and three chUdren, the figures of all' being in a praying posture. He was lord mayor of London ia the year 1556. Dr. Humphrey Brook, fellow of tbq college of physicians in London, adorned with cherubims, skeletons heads, &c. Mr. John Stow, to whose memory London is so much indebted for accounts of her ancient state. This is a large marble monument, with his effigies sitting at study, and fenced in with an iron rail ; over his head are these words in gold letters upon black : Aut Scribenda Aut Legenda Agere. Scribere. Above which is a cornice, and the Merchant Taylors arms ; and under the figure these words are cut : Memorice SacrUm'. Resurrectionem in Christo hie expectat Johannes Stowe, Ciris Londinensis: Qui in Antiquis Monumentis eruendis accuratissima diligentia usus Anglias Annales & Civitatis Londini Synopsim, bene de sua bene de postera. zetate meritus, luculenter scripsit, vitaaeq.; Studio pie & probe decurso. Obiit iEtatis Anno 60. clie. 5 ' Aprilis 1605. . , , . lElizahetha Conjux ut perpetuum syi amoris Testimonium dolcns. Mr. Moser observes, that this monument seems to be of stone ; but Mr. Strype says, ^' he was told by an ingenious person that it was only of burnt clay (terra cotta) painted."' This it is impossible now to discover without injuring tbe^ figure ; but if it be really composed of burnt earth, of which, upon the authority of Strype, there can scarcely be a doubt, one very natural observation arises in the mind, which is, that the art of making figures in artificial stone, that was thought to have been invented about the year 1769, Was of a much more antient date even in this kingdom: in Italy vve know it was practiced in the days of Michael An- gelo. This ingenious gentleman carries his speculation still farther; he says, '* in fact, we might carry the date of this art back to the .most remote ages of antiquity. What are the antient bricks, pottery, &c. but artificial stone. Of what but artifidal stone was the composition of the altars, vases LONDON. 167 vases, and sacrificing vessels of the antients .? The same ob servation wiU apply to our earthen ware in general, and par ticularly what used to be termed Staffordshire ; as also to the muffles and crucibles of the chymists. What are these but artificial stone.? composed of the same materials, and vitrified by nearly the same process. With respect to the revival of the art of forming figures and ornaments of this composition, I think it does honour fo the age and country,. and that it may be attended with great national advan- ' tage *." On the north side of the church is a very spacious marble monument, erected to the memory of Sir Hugh Hamersly, lord mayor of London in the year 1627, a colonel ofrthis city, president of Christ's Hospital, president of the Artil lery garden, governor of the company of Russia merchants, ¦ and of those of the Levant ; free of the companies of Ha berdashers, and of Merchants Adventurers of Spain, East India, France, and Virginia. He had issue by dame Mary: his wife fifteen children, and died the 19th of October 1636, and of his age seventy-one. In memory of whom 'his lady erected this monument, in the year 1637. Under an alcove over the inscription, are the statues of Sir Hugh and his lady in a kneeling posture ; and-on each side, near the extreme parts ofthe monument, are the figures of four soldiers of the ArtiUery Company iamentingi bis death. Near the north side of the altar, and fronting the church, is a curious white niarble monument to the memory of Sir John Jeffreys, with a long Latin inscription ; recounting his- virtues and, bis family. A, white marble monument, erected in memory of Sir Christopher Clitherow, lord mayor of London in 1635, and dame Mary his wife. A monument to the memory of Mr. Mathias Datchdor, merchant, and Mary his wife, who had three, daughters'. Mary, Beatrix, and Sarah, is also worthy of notice, on ac*' * Vestiges, coUeted and recollected, No. III. y 2 count 168 LONDON. count of the foUowing particulars : Mrs. Datchelor gave the premises called the Antigallican Coffee House, in trust to the rector of St. Andrew, and six other persons of credit, for the ground on which their vault is built, to keep it and the monument in repair. She also ordered by will, a ser mon every New Year's Day, when the purposes or the gift are mentioned. The trustees then deliver the following sums : to the rector, lOZ. to the clerk, 41. to the sexton, 3l. to apprentice two children 20/. for expences 2l. and the remainder to the poor inhabitants, not exceeding 20/. and the clerk and Sexton are compelled, under pain of forfeiture^ to make oath, that to their knowledge the vault has not been disturbed the preceding year. There is also a monument to the memory of WiUiam Berriman, D. D. rector 27 years, and 22 fellow of Eton College. " A learned di.vdne, a judicious casuist, a cele brated wiriter, a vigilant pastor, an excellent minister, and an exemplary christian.'' This gentleman was born in 3688, and died in 1749. Sir William Craven, lord mayor in 1610, one ofthe ¦wealthiest and most eminent citizens of his time, was buried here in grand pomp, but is not remembered by any monu ment. The bequests of this worthy man evinced at the same time his benevolence and his wisdom. After bestowing his vast fortune on the several branches of his family, and various charitable donations, he appoints his lady governness of his children tUl they come of age or are preferred in mar riage. He also allows that she may draw part of their por tions for this purpofe, provided she gives sufficient security io the chamberlain of London : — and that no idle people may assemble at his burial, as is usual in such cases, he orders 300/. to be divided among the several parishes in the city, to relieve the most necessitous. Sir William also seems con sistent in every duty; for he wills to John Gibson, for his better ,encouragement to be diligent and careful of his business, the free loan of 3000/. without interest, for the. space of five years. Such a character was worthy of being the founder of a noble family ! LONDON. 169 pis son William, lord Craven, who was born in this parish, gained great reputation as a soldier under Gustavus Adolphus, king of Sweden, and Henry, prince of Orange. He took the strong fortress of Crutzenach, in Germany, by storm; which is one of the most extraordinary actions re- corded in the history of the great Gustavus ; on these occa sions the following lines are placed under his portrait : " London's bright gem, his house's honour, and A great asserter of the Netheriand: Bounty and valour 'make thy fame shine clear. By Nassau grac'd to Swedeland's king most dear ; Who, when on Crusnacke walls, he understood Thee wounded, came to knight thee in thy blood: To whom when folded in her arms he said, «' Rise bravest spirit that e'er thy city bred 1" * This amiable nobleman assisted his sovereigns Charies I. and II. in their necessities, to avast amount. He is said to have been married privately to the queen of Bohemia, aunt to fhe latter monarch. He is particularly mentioned here on account of the more immediate service he rendered his native city. So indefatigable was he in preventing the ra vages of the fires of those days, that it was said, " his very horse smelt it out." During the dreadful plague in 1665, lord Craven, Monk, duke of Albemarle, and sir John Law rence, lord mayor, heroically stayed in town, and, at the hazard of their lives, preserved order in the midst of terror. The account of St. Andrew Undershaft cannot be better concluded, than by a few notices of John Stow. This able and faithful historian was bo^n about the year 1525, in Cornhill, where mention has already been made of his family in St. Michael's church, and is supposed to have followed his father's occupation of a taylor ; he began very. early to apply himself to the study of English history and antiquity; and was so indefatigable in ttis pursuit, that he, Beglected his business and injured his circumstances. This ^as at a period that had any liberal minded person assisted his .* Gruiger. endeavours, l-iQ LONDON. endeavours, such a source of knowledge might have been preserved to this country, as would be a lasting fund of useful information, of which' it is now for ever deprived. There is no occasion to add further strength to this observa tion, than to refer to the wonderful collection of the Cotton manuscripts. Honest Stow, with a generosity beyond bis prudence, collected many important documents, which tbe dissolution of monasteries had involved in confusion, and from theiij g-leanings formed his invaluable Survey of Lon don, bis English Chronicle, and other works which will hand his memory down to posterity vvith the highest re spect. But poor Stow, though known, referred to as an au thority, and respected by the most exalted personages, was patronized by none but archbishop Parker, who was a generous encourager of his studies, and assisted him during bis life by several tokens of his generosity. In these times of reformation, however creditable in the grand plan, many individuals were great sufferers for their religious opinions; our author had great share of this severity; aftd his persecutions were as illiberal as they were extiaordi- nary. The jealousy of the state in 1658, occasioned an order to Dr. Grindall , bishop of London, vvho, narrow-minded, forgetting the merit due to so patriotic a labourer, calls our historian, " Stow, the taylor;" this order was to search his library for superstitious books, of which, in conse quence, several were found ; and not Camden, to whom he had been of essential service in the Britannia, Dudley, earl of Leicester, to whom he was known, and whom he had obliged, and other powerful but useless acquaintances could prevent his experiencing the terrors of the Star Chamber; andin 1570 he was falsely accused before the ecclesiastical commissioners upon no less than one hundred and forty articles ; and shocking to state, his accuser was his own- brother ! Such persecutions were, unfortunately for Mr. Stow, th® fore-runners of poverty, and towflrds the latter end of his life, at the great age of eighty years, his circumstances 3 y ere LONDON. 171 were so reduced, that he was compdled to solicit charitable contributions by brief; and what the city he had so honoured, contributed upon this occasion, may nearly be ascertained by ;the donations gathered io the most opulent part of Loflibaffd Street ; the parishioners of St. Mary Woolnoth collected si:vew shillings and six-pence. * ! Worn out ijirith disease, with labour, and with indigence, this worthy character died of the stone cholic, April 5, 1605. *'. Aa to his literary character, he was an unwearied reader of all EngUsh history, whether printed or in manuscript ; and a searcher into records, registers, journals, original charters, instruments, &c. Nor was ihe contented with a mere perusal of these things, but was ambitious of posses sing them as a great treasure ; and by the time he was forty years of age, he had raised a considerable library of such works. His study was stored not only with antient authors, but likewise with original charters, registers, and chronicles of particular places, He had the greater oppor tunity of enriching himself with these things, as Jbe lived shortly after the dissolution of the monasteries, when they were dispersed and scattered abroad into divers hands out pf those repositories. It was his custom to transcribe all such qld and useful books as he could not obtain or purchase;- thus he copied six volumes of Leland's collections for his own use, which he afterwards sold to Mr. Camden, for an annuity of eighty pounds for life. He was a true antiquary, since he vvas not satisfied with reports, nor with the cricditr of what he had seen in print, but had recourse to the originals ; and he made use of his own legs, for he could. never ride, travelling on foot to many cathedrals and churchesj in order to consult; and transcribe from antient records and charters." " Papist or protestant, he wa.? an honest, and generous man, unspotted in his life, and useful in his pursuits f." * Cecil, lord Burleigh, had similar notions of Uberality, when he exclaimed before Queen Elizabeth, upon her ordering IDO/. to Spencer : " W/iat, all this for a song," and ultimately laft this admirable poet to starve ! f ¦ Bicgrajihical Dictionary, Returnin? 172 LONDON. Returning from the church into Leadenhall Street, the nearest object on the north side of the way is, the' first of the East India Company's Warehouses, a vast pile of buUding reach* ing from this Street nearly to Bury Street ; and is deno minated the COAST WAREHOUSE, SO called from having formerly contained Coast and Surat piece goods ; though made use of at present for the purpose of housing drugs. Billiter Lane originaUy called from its founder, Bdzeter's Lane, vvas inhabited by such persons as induced sir Thomas More, in a book he wrote against the martyr Tyndal, to use that gross proverb of antient times, " a bawdy beggar of Billiter Lane." This lane, however, is at present much better occupied ; it contains another larg-e structure belong ing to the East India Company, called the Private Trade Warehouse, for the reception of such goods, brought from the east,' as belong to private individuals, where they re main till sold at the India House, when all property, public and private must be designated to the hammer, and then delivered to their proper owners. Billiter Square also form ed part of a lane, which was obliged to be stopped up on account of the iniquity of its inhabitants. Returning to Leadenhall Street, and having passed a house which has lately been noticed for its filthy condition during . several years, owing to the singular humour of the tenant, we i^roceed to a large building formerly rented by the African Company. It antiently was part of the dissolved priory of the Holy Trinity ; but on account of Mrs. Corn waUis having gratified the appetite of Henry VIII. by presenting him with some fine puddings, he granted this, and other tenements to her and her heirs. The house was afterwards the residence of the great sir Nicholas Throg- morton, who was a favourite with queen Elizabeth, and her ambassador to France and Scotland. His ability was firmly attached to the interests of his mistress, which so fai; excited the envy of the malicious Dudley ,¦ earl of Leicester, that it is supposed sir Nicholas was poisoned by a sallad which he eat at the earl's house. " It is certain that he died soon after be had eaten it, before he could be removed from table." St. CATHE- LONDON. 173 ST. CATHARINE-CREE CHURCH, PREVIOUSLY to giving the history of this edifice,it may be necessary to say somethuig concerning the saint to vvhich it is dedicated. St. Catharine, according to the monkish le gends, was a virgin of Alexandria ; and having been in structed in literature and the sciences, was afterwards con.« verted to the Christian faith, at the time when the emperor Maxentius persecuted such as were of that persuasion. Be ing called before the emperor, she not only refused to sa crifice to idols, but reproached Maxentius fior his cruelty ; for which she was scourged and imprisoned, without susteu- ance, seven days. When, however, neither promises, threats, nor imprisonments prevailed, she was condemned to suffer death ; and the emperor ordered her to be crushed between wheels made of iron, to which were fastened sword blades: this, measure was. rendered abortive by the prayers of the suffeirer ; the wheels instantly broke asunder, the blades were scattered, and in a vvonderous manner wounded the by-standers.v Finding that all other means of death were inefficacious, she vvas by the emperor beheaded, in the year 310, at the early age of eighteen years. Newcourt seems not only to doubt the miracle of the wheels, buf absolutely asserts his disbelief of others; for, he says, " Of other incredible miracles wrought after she Vol. II. No. 35.- Z was 174 LONDON, was beheaded, it is not worth relating; as bow milk should flow out of her dead corps ; and that the angels should carry her body unto Mount Sinai, and the like. Travel lers report, that they have seen her tomb fuU of. oU, and her head, hair, and bones swimming therein." Such points of religious controversy being mentally fettled^ we proceed to state that this parish church stands, where was formerly the cemetery of the priory of the Holy Trinity Christ Church ; and hence derived its present denomination 'of Christ's, or corruptedly, Cree Church. . From an antient ledger .book belonging to Trinity priory, it appears, , that the parishioners frequented the altar of St. Mary Magdalen in the conventual church ; but, on account of such Inconvenience; occasioned by the dis sonance of voices, when service was performing in another part of the church; it was agreed between the prior and convent, and the parishioners, with the consent of Richard de Gravesend, bishop of London, that the chapel of St. Catharine, in the church yard, should be appropriated for more quiet devotion. In consequence of this agreement, the parishes of St. Catharine, St. Mary Magdalen, St. Mir chad, and the Blessed Trinity, which had been united, when the priory was founded, were appropriated and con firmed to that community by a bull from pope Innocent II. but without a stated vicar, on account of the scanty re venue ; the cure was to be supplied by one of the canons, at the pleasure of the prior. Differences, however, arising between the convent and parishioners, it was in 1414 mu tuaUy agreed that the parishioners should support the bur thens of their own church or chapel, independently of the convent ; wbich was again confirmed by bishop Fitzjames, in 1509 ; though the presentation stiU continued with the priory. After the surrender to Henry VIII. this church, as part of its possessions, was bestowed 'on Sir Thomas Audley, after- terwards lord chancellor, by the title of Lord Audley. His lordship bestowed it, with all its privileges, on Magdalen, CoUege, Cambridge. They leased it to the parishioners, who LONDON. 175 who nominate a curate, licenced by the bishop of London, by which the curate holds his title ; in consequence, it is hot charged with first-fruits and tenths, except procuration to the bishop and archdeacon. The superstitious consecration of the present building by the imprudent, well-meaning Laud, on January 16, 1630-31, added new force to the discontents and rage of the Pu ritans ; he attempted innovations in the church ceremonies at a season when he ought at least to have left them in the state he found them ; instead of which, he urged his opi- , nions to extremities, and used the fieirce persecutions of the Star Chamber against his opponents ; nor did he desist till he brought destruction on his own head, and highly contri buted to that of his royal master, Charles I. * The church is built of stone, and is a composition of Gothic architecture, with a single series of large square windows, each with three lancet compartments ; there are also smaller, windows in the same form above the parapet, which altogether affords a great body of light to the in ternal part of the structure, which is about ninety feet in length ; in breadth fifty-one ; and the altitude of the tower, on which is an ornamented dome, is about eighty feet. within the tower is a small ring of beUs. The interior consists of a body and two aisles, and a isquare roof, supported by pillars and pillasters of the Co rinthian order ; the roof is ornamented with fret-work, in terspersed with the armorial bearings of the city, and the several companies of London. Thei whole is very hand somely wainscoted and pewed ; and the gallery, which sup ports a good organ, is very neatly carved.. The altar is also very beautifully painted in perspective ; the east window exhibits the arms of Charles Prince of Wales, the city of London, and Sir James CampbeU, lord mayor in 1629. "The pulpit and communion table are of pure cedar. Among the monuments the following are the most re- piarkable : " Sacred to the memory of Mr. Samuel Marshal, who was a bright scholar to the excellent Dr. Blow, an admired, useful, and Z 2 sedulous * Pennant, ns LONDON. sedulous ornament to the choir of St. Paulas ; abqve eleven year.| the exquisite organist of this chiirch, and master to other good or-; ganists. Ob. Anno 1713-4.. jEtat. suse 27. " His very artful, solemn, and moving compositions and per formances, for, and in, the service of God, &c. though through humility disregarded by himfelf, have deservedly raised him a great name and esteem among the best. and most impartial judges of them." Another with a long Latin inscription to the me;mor.y of the reverend and learned John Tovey. But the most elegant is the monument to perpetuate toj posterity the revered name of Sir Nicholas Throkmprton. It is dn the south side of the church, and is of fine marble, adorned vvith the full length of the deceased in armour, re clining on a matted couch ; the whole is very spacious in the Doric order, and highly decorated. The inscription is thus : ¦ • ( " Here lyeth the body of Sir Nicolas ThrokniortpH, knight, the fourth son of Sir George Throkmorton, knight ; which Sir Ni cholas was chief butler of England, one of the chamberlains of the Exchequer, and ambassador-Ieiger to the queen's majesty Queen Elizabeth. And after his return Lnlo England, he was sent ambassador again into France, and twice into Scotland. He mar ried Ann Carew, daughter to Sir Nicholas Carew, knight, and begat of her ten sons and three daughters. He died the 12th of February 1570, aged fifty-seven." His arms are seven coats quarterly. The famous Hans Holbein, painter to Henry VIII. and Edward VI. was buried in this church*. An annual sermon is preached here on the sixteenth of October, in commemoration of a remarkable deliverance. ' Si^ * This great genius, wliose works ornament several of the public buildings in and about London, was recommended to Sir Thomas More by the learned Erasmus; "and," as Granger observes, "sufficiently recommended himself to Henry VIII. who was struck with just admi-. ration at the sight of an assemblage of his portraits in Sir Thomas'"? hall. He was the first reformer of the Gothic style of architecture in England." An anecdote is related of this artist ; who having highly af fronted LONDON. 177 Sir John Gayer, a considerable merchant in Leadenhall Street, and lord mayor in the year 1643, on his return to Europe from a successful voyage, was cast aw^y on tiie coast of Africa. » In the midst of his distress he p.rceived a lion making towards him ; and he immediately fell upon his knees, and after resigning himself to the will of Provi dence, declared, that " if the Almighty would please to deliver him out of his perilous situation, he would, on his retum to England, evince his gratitude, and endeavour, to the end oi" his life, to inculcate rehance upon Providence in the worst extremes of human wretchedness." The lion passed without molesting him ; and the next day, having descried a vessel, he embarked, and had a safe passage to his native land. On his arrival, he immediately placed in trust the sum of 200/.- the interest of which was to supply bread for the poor of this parish for ever ; and he left twenty shiUings to be paid to the minister for preaching a prmon every succeeding 16th of October, in commemora tion, of his escape ; which bequest has been strictly applied ^nd attended to for nearly two centuries. This church was repaired and beautified in a very liberal manner in the year 1805; and exhibits, by its appearance, what a structure dedicated to the service of the Deity fhould be. Nearly opposite is Tylers, and Bricklayers Hall, which is rented by a congregation of the Jewish persuasion, and used by them as a synagogue. Though the fraternity of Tylers and Bricklayers is of considerable antiquity, they were not incorporated till 1568, by letters patent from Queen Elizabeth. They consist of a master, two wardens, thirty-eight assistants, and one hundred and three livery- |nen. fronted one of the noblemen of Henry's court, the peer's vengeance went so far as to threaten Holbein's life. This coming to the king's ears, he commanded, on peril of his utmost displeasure, that he would iesist from any further attempt to the danger of the painter's ; remark ing at the same time, " that he could create nobles daily ; but it was ^eyond his pow&r to create an equal to Holbein !" At Its LONDON. At the' extremity of Leadenhall Street, which forms an angle with Fenchurch Street, near the pump, was once a ¦residence of Stow ; and he relates the cruel execution of the bailiff of Romford on a gibbet, which had been erefted immediately before his house during the rejgn of Edward VI. The unhappy man on the ladder, thus declared himself, in the presence of our historian : ' I know not for what offfeflce 1. am brought to die, except for words by me spoken yester night to Sir Stephen, curate and preacher of this parish ; which were these : he asked me, " What news in the coun try?" I answered, "heavy news." " Why," quoth he.?'* "It is sayd," quoth I, "that many men be up in Essex; but, thanks be to God, all is in good quiet about us." And this vvas all, as God be my judge,' Upon these words of the prisoner. Sir Stephen, who was the fanatical firebrand of those times, to avoid the reproach of the people, left the city, and sunk into his deserved obscurity. " In that age there were most barbarous and cruel punish ments, • by martial law, against all spreaders of rumours. The times were turbulent; but slighter penahies than death might have sufficed." In the year 1789, were recovered tbe remains of the beautiful little chapel of St. Michael, under Stow's house- It is supposed to have been built by Norman, prior of Trinity, about the year 1108, in the Gothic architecture. Its dimensions are forty-eight feet by sixteen ; and it is built with square pieces of Rochester stone. The arches are very elegant, supported by ribs, which converge, and meet on the capitals of the pillars, which are nearly buried in the earth ; but are supposed to be covered with sixteen feet of soil. The whole addition of soil, since its foundation, is supposed to have been twenty-six feet ; an amazing in crease, which might almost occasion one to imagine this to have been the sub-chapel of some now lost church *. Turning a littie into Fenchurch Street, the eye is at tracted by an immense and noble pile of brick building • In the Gentleman's Magazine for 1789, after various other con jectures, it is supposed, with probability, that this fabric suffered by tho dreadful fire in the reign of king Stephen. ^ extending LONDON. 119 extending to, and having a communication wita, another structure of the same kind in Jewry Street, Crutched Friars These are used as tea and drug warehouses by the East India Company ; and are indicative of the vast proportion of wealth possessed by that princely body of merchants. Formerly here was the town residence of the prior of Monte Jovis, or rather of Hornchurch, in Essex, a cdl to that priory. To this on the east, joined Northumberland House, belonging to Henry Percy, earl of Northumberland, and his son, both of whom lost tiieir lives in the civil wars which desolated the country, in the reign of Henry VI. Afteu that noble famUy had reUnquished this house for Charing Cross, the mansion and gardens were converted into bowl ing allies and dice houses ; but gambling having been dis persed to other parts of the city, this antient and only pa lace of misrule was left and forsaken of her gamesters, and turned into a number of small cottages *. ; In Magpie Alley, stands the obscure church of ST. CATHARINE COLEMAN. THIS church has the addition of Coleman from a great haw, yard, or garden, antiently called Coleman Haw. It formerly belonged to the deanery of St. Martin Le Grand j * Sww. Pennant. afterwardit 180 LONDON. afterwards to the abbot' and convent of Westminster ; and ultimately, by letters patent of Mary Ii it vvas bestowed on bishop Bonner, and his successors for ever. Sir William White, lord mayor in 1489, was a great be nefactor to the old church, which having escaped the fire, was much buried in consequence of raising tbe pavement of the streets. In 17.34, this fabric was taken down, and the present church erected at the expence of the parish, under the sanction 'of two acts of pariiament, in the reign of George II. by which the parishioners were enabled to raise money by annuities at the annual rate of 8/. per cent, and t» rate the inhabitants to pay the said annuities. This building is a plain and neat brick building, with a lofty body, enlightened by two rows of windows. The tower is also folid and fimple ; and the floor is raised so much above the surface of the street, that there is an ascent of several steps to the church door. The inside is destitute of ornament, and the organ very plain ; the pulpit is sup ported by two Corinthian piUars, and the altar forms an arch, in vvhich [are two Ionic piUars and a pediment, furmounted by an assemblage of clouds and cherubims. The only monument of any consequence is erected to the memory of Lady Higham, in 1634. Tbe situation of the church is singular ; on one side, next the street, its nearest neighbour is an alehouse; and, on the other, the congregation in a Jew's synagogue pour forth their ejaculations of prayer and praise to the Deity ; but, though such opposite professions subsist on so contracted a spot, there are no feuds in the neighbourhood. Returning eastwardly, at the junction, of Houndsditch, Whitechapel Street, and the Minories, formerly stood ALDGATE, of which not a v^estige remains here. This was one of the four original gates of the City, through which passed the Roman vicinal way from the trajectus, or ferrv at Old Ford. It derived its name from its antiquity, and is men tioned in a charter granted by king Edgar, in the year 96T1 In digging its foundation, when it was lev»lled for r^ bHiiding LONDON. 181 miilding in 1606, several Roman coins were discovered, a resemblance of two of which, the Emperor Trojan, and Dio- tlesian *, the surveyor of the works ciaused to be cut in stone, and placed oh each side of , the east /front, where it re mained tUl the gate was, taken down in 1761 ; and its re mains having been purchased by Ebenezer Mussell^ Esq. who deprecating the destruction of such a relic of anti quity,, removed them to Bethnal Green ; and having com pacted the parts, the restored fabric forms a venerable and resj^ctable addition to his house at that place. In the year 1215, the Londoners having given encourage- inent to the barons against king John, they entered the city at this gate. Fitzwalter, MagnavUe, earl of Essex, and Gilbert de Claire, earl of Gloucester, the leaders of the ba ronial araiy, having destroyed the monasteries and emptied their treasuries, repaired the various gates and v?alls of the city, with the stones of the Jew^s dwellings, which their ad herents had also demolished, Aldgate, which had so easily given thera admittance, on account of its ruinous state; first attracted attention ; it was rebuilt with strdng arches and bulwarks of Norman stone, and Flanders tile. During the reign of Edward IV. the bastard Falconr bridge, having assembled a riotous body of seamen in Essex and Kent, and placed them in a vast number of ships, anchored near the Tower. The rhayor and aldermen, hav- ' ing notice of their rebellious measures, by consent of com mon council, in 1471, fortified the Thames shore ffom Bay- ' nard's Castle to the Towei- with al-med men, gians, and other implements of opposition; "The bastard and his ad herents despairing qf advantage on that side of the city, at tacked the walls and gates, as well as from the Thames ; and, besides constantly annoying the citizens by means of arrows and guns, fired the suburbs. On Sunday the eleventh of May, in the same year, a body of five thousand men entered Aldgate ; but the portcullis being suddenly let * The other coins found were those of Clodius Albinus, Vespasian, Domitian, Carausius, and Valentinian. Vol. If, No. 35. -A-a dowa, ,32 LONDON. down, they were sejjarated from their companions, attacked by the citizens, and defeated with great slaughter. Upoff this advantage, Robert Basset, the alderman of the wjird, commanded, in the name of God, the portcullis to be again drawn Up ; and making a sortie, repeUed the enemy to St. Botolph's church. Earl Rivers, and the constable of ¦ tbe Tovver, by this time arrived to assist the distressed ci tizens, and jointly drove the rebels to Mile End, Poplar, and Stratford ; many were slain and taken prisoners, and the bastard, finding his fortunes desperate, fled -from the justice which he deserved. # Near this gate, in the reign of Edward I. was erected a turret on the wall, which was converted to an hermitage, and vvas presented at an inquisition before the king's justices at tbe Tower, as being built four feet without the wall on the king's highway. Without this gate was a conduit, erected in 1535^ to which water was convej'cd from Hackney ; but this conduit was subjected to many inconveniences, which Stow relates in the follbwing manner : " Although this water conduit was very beneficial to the people inhabiting there round about, yet, in regard of the situation, being upon the'street'^south side, and immediately descending down many steps or stairs of stone, it was troublesome to the poor people fetching water there, in coming np laden with their tubs, pails, ani tankards. Besides, until the turn of each party came by order and due course, their tankards, tubs, and pails, did greatly pester the passage about and through the gate, en dangering divers personal barms, and other great inconve niencies; which, since then, at the taking down of the old gate, that a new one might be built at the same place, is (exceeding commendably amended, to the city's honour, their credit that ha,d care for the disposing of the work, and great ease of the poor water-bearers, and all passengers. For now there is a fair spacious court, wherdn a'l! the tankards, and other 'vessels orderly stand, without any an noyance to the street ; and the descent to the conduit is made very cpiivenient, free from offending on© another in their LONDON. 183 their labour, and the passage to and fro is so aptly ordered, and the room so large for their attendance." A curious rCr trospect of the stat-e of this street comparatively vvith the present. The fine street called the Minories, covers part of the ditch which surrounded the antient city wall. This ditch was open to 'the foot path, and being often cleansed from fikh, its breadth and depth were so great, that persons who w^e in the habit of watering horses, were often deceived , by the supposjed shallowness of its banks, and drowned be-, fore any relief could be brought to their assistance. The consequence of these disasters occasioned it to be parti tioned off, and the banks were let out for garden plots, car penter's yards, bowling allies, and houses so as to obscure the city wall ; and the channel was reduced in its width. Being afterwards filled up, the ditch was covered by the western side of the Minories ; tlie back of which being fil led by dunghills, outhouses, and gardens, were esteemed a nuisance. Commerce in these places, as well as many others, has occasioned considerable improvements ; for, on this dangerous and filthy site, are now constructed the con venient and degant districts of Aldgate, parish, denomi nated George Street, America Square, the Circus, and the Crescent, The approximity of the convent of St, Clare, so named from certain pom- ladies of the order of St. Clare, or Mi- iieresses, occasioned the eastern side of the ditch to, be inha bited from all early period. This religious sisterhood was founded by Blanch, queen of Navarre, consort of Edmund, duke of Lancaster, in the year 12.93 ; and from this circumstance, when the neigh bourhood was formed into a street, it vvas called The Mi- T^ries. ' Fathey Ribadeniera, an author in great repute among those ofthe' Roman Catholic jiciouasion, informs us, ' that *< this admirable. virgii>, light and mother of the poor re ligious of "St.. Francis," was born at Alsise, in the provinces of Umbria, in the Italian sta,tes, of rich a.nd noble parents. A 3; 3 Being 134 LONDON. Being inclined to a solitary life ; or, as the father has it, " having offered to God her virginity, she made great je- sistance to her pai;ents, who would have her marry." St. Francis, having conversed with the damsel, so operated upon her mind, that she was soonr induced to run avyay from her parents, vvho, by the bye, were also of the same per- suasion ; and St. Francis, iUumined with light from beayen, ordained, that having secretly quitted her father's house, he would admit her into his convent, and give her the habit ; aud here she enclosed Jierself " for the love of hex heavenly spouse." Not satisfied with running avyay herself^ she; misled Tier sister Agnes to do the same ; " she prayed,*' says ihe father, " for that purpose, and in seventeen days after her conversion, her request was , granted * ;" and thus a worthy family was deprived. We cannot e;nter into the inany mortifications which this holy i-ecluse endured; btit we must say something concerning her miracles. " One day it happened, that there was but one loaf of bread in the monastery ; she commanded half df it to be given in alms to the friars, and the other half to be set upon the t^ble before fifty nuns, under her subjection ; St. Clare made her prayers to Almighty God, and he so multipUed ihe bread,, that they all eat of it, and vvere satisfied ; and' one night as she -was in prayer, and melted into tears, the devU appeared to, her in the shape of a blackamoor, and told her she did not well to weep so much, and she would do better service by governing her monastery, than in shedding so many tears ; she gave him a suitable answer, and he fled from her.—; Pope Innocent IV. was so struck with such an abundance of mortification, miracles, and sanctity, that he; wished to canonize St. Clare before she was buried ; but upoi^ the re monstrance of thd cardinal bishop of Osti?i, the Q^noniza- tion did not take place till the pontificate of Alexander IV. in 1, 255, two years after her decease. ' ' The length of this abbey was fifteen perches and seven feet near unto the king's highway, as appears by a deed dated 1303. In the fourteenth of Edward II. it was called • Hence we suppose is dei4ved St. Agnes et Clare, not le Clare. ' " thQ LONDON. 185 ?' the abbey pf the MInoresses of St. Marj', of the order of St. Clare;" and in a .charter granted at that time, there were confirmed to it certain messuages in the Vintry, Wood Street, Lad Lane, Old Fish Street, and two shops in Lom bard Street, Christ Chqrch (Cree Church) Lane, and - Sherburgh Lane. These sisters had afterwards many other grants, more particularly Appledurcobme, in. the Isle of Wight ;' and Herteshorne, in the parish of St. Mary Mat- fdlon, Whitechapel. The yearly revenue at the Dissolu tion vvas 4I8Z. 85. 5d. Being a spacious structure', it was inhabited by various nobles, and other great men, by privilege from the-king. The first possessor was Dr. Clerk, bishop of Bath , and Wdls, and master of the roUs ; vvho having been sent am- biassador to the Dqke of Cleves, to apologize for Henry's treatment of his sister, the bishop is supposed to have been poisoned in consequence of his mission ; and was buried in the Minorite's church, but afterwards removed to Aldgate. Jn the year 1552, Edward VI. granted the chief messuage or inansion, called the Minory House, to Henry Grey, Duke of Suffolk, father of lady Jane Grey; besides divers^ houses in London, belonging to the monastery, of the clear yearly value of 36/. IU. 5.d\. to hold in free soccage ; and the mansion in capite. On his attainder it reverted to the crown, in which it continued till the Restoration, when Charles 11. granted it to colonel William Legge, who re sided there, died in it in 1672, and was buried from thence, with great fUneral pomp, in the adjoining church ; his de pendants of the Dartmouth family stiU continue to make that church the place of their interment*. It was after wards appropriated , for military stores, and an armoury ; g,nd ultimately separated into lesser tenements, 111.'''"'' ,, * Pennant. TRINITY 13€ LONDON. TRINITY CHURCH, MINORIES, m AFTER the suppression of the nunnery, and the destruc^ tion of its buUdings, it was rendered necessary to establish a place of worship for the use of the inhabitants in the pre, cinct. A parish church was therefore constructed and de- dicated to tbe Holy Trinity ; and the incumbent, or cujatq, for it is neither a rectory or vicarage institutive, holds the living by donation, under the great seal of England. Being old, and out 'of repair, the structure was taken down in 1706, and the present church erected at the expence of seven hundred pounds. The dimensions of the building are, sixty-three feet in length, twenty -four in breadth, and about twenty in height. The tovver is low, and the whole building is of brick, and void of ornament. It is however worthy of notice for the following monuments : " In memory of colonel William Legge, eldest Son of six to Edward Legge and Mary Walsh, which Edward was only son to William Legge and Ann Bermingham, of the only noble and an cient family of the Berminghams of Athenree, in the kingdom of Ireland, He was groom of the bed-chanjber, and lieutenant-ge neral LONDON. m jaeral of the ordnance to king Charles I. and in the late civU war, was governour of Chester ahd Oxford, and upon the happy re- stauration of the royal family, in 1660, was, in consideration of his untainted fidelity to the king, and his many and great sufferings, restored to his place of lieutenant-general of the ordnance, and groom of his majesty's bed chamber by king Charles II. and as a farther mark of his royal favour, superintendant and treasurer of the ordnance. He married Elizabeth, eldest daughter to Sir Wil liam Washington, and Ann Villars, daughter to Sir George Vil- lars, and sister to the most noble prince George, duke of Buck ingham, by whom he had three sons and two daughters. He died October 13, 167 2, in the eighty. third year of ,his age, and lieth in , a vault under -this place." A little westward, on the north side of the chancel, is a handsome white and veined marble monument, adorned with a cornice, cartouch pediment, and an urn, under vvhich is the following inscription : " To the memory of thp right honourable George Lord Dart- tnouth, distinguished by his early and eminent deserts, and many high marks of royal trust and favour ; he was governour of Ports mouth, master of the ordnance, privy counsellour and cabinet to king Charles and king James II. and master of the horse to king James. After many singular proofs of his courage, conduct and affection to his country, given in several engagements at sea, he commanded in chief, and carried the flag as admiral of the whole English fleet, in two solemn fexpeditions. " He died October 25, 1691. inthe forty-fourth year of his age, and lids interred near this place. *' He married Barbara, daughter and coheir of Sir James Arch- bold, in Staffordshire, by whom he had issue one son, and seven daughters, two of which lie i^n the same vault, as do also his lord* ship's father and mother (aforesaid) and Philip, eldest son of Sir Christopher Musgrave, of Edhal in Cumberland, vvho married Mary the eldest daughter, and deceased August 6, 1688." At the back of this church, in Haydon Square, are large warehouses belonging to the East India Company, one range being appropriated for the housing of tea and drugs ; the other for the reception of drugs only. On 18S LOJsTDON. On the south side of this convent was a farm beldngitfg to the sisterhood, which, aniong other of their possessions^ -got into private hands: this farm, and and the adjoining fields, having been purchased by ohe Trolop ; and from hiiri bought by a farmer, named Goodman : the latter so increased his property, that he had forty coWs for mUking*. Fataer Goodman's sOn let out the gsoUnd for griazing horses, and for -gardens ; by which he attained such pro perty and riches, as to give to the land the name Which it bears to the present period. The appellation of Fields^ however, is merely nominal ; for this vast tract is covered by Mansel, Prescot, Lemon, and other considerable streets^ &c. mostly inhabited by rich Je!w merc'haints. WhUst we are in this quarter, it may hot be improper to notice, that in Abe Street, by the Dissenting meeting house, stood tlie play house, where Garrick, on the 19th of Oc tober 1741, first gave proofs of those vast powers which. afterwards " astonished and charmed the public." The theatre was first built by a Mr. Odd, in 1728; and rebuilt in a very expensive manner by Henry Giffard, in 1737 ; but, by means of the licensing act, was suppressed ; yet was supported for a few years by evasion, during which, the fascinating powers of Mr. Garrick, drew such audiences, that the whole line of streets from Whitechapel to Temple Bar, were filled vvith the carriages of the nobility and gentry. Prescot Street boa.sts of the first building dedicated to hu manity and reformation ; the centre of the street, on the south side, was occupied by the Magdalen Hospital, l^e- fore it was removed to its present situation in Great Surrey Road. Little Alie Street bas a Lutheran chapel, where the be nevolent and learned Dr. Wachsd, was, for many years,, of ficiating. minister. . Of this worthy clergyman we have al ready made mention in our .first volume, p. 538, concerning his benevolent conduct towards the distressed Palatines. * See Vol. I. p. .172. By LONDON. 189 By the west end of Prescot Street, through narrow alleys* the perambulator is introduced into tha,t theatre of second hand commerce, called Rag Fair. In the fullest hour of business it is amusing, and probably instructive,' to view this busy scene of vulgarity. " The articles of commerce," observes Pennant, " by no means belye the name. There is no expressing the poverty of the goods ; nor yet their eheapness. A distinguished merchant, engaged with a pur- clj^ser, observing me to look on him with great attention, called out to me, as his customer was going off with his baitgain, to observe that man, for, says he, I have actually' clothed him for fourteen pence !" We may encrease the Wonder, by remarking, that for the more speedy circula tion of this traffic, several exchr-nges are built ; that there are other shops of the better sort, the owners of which are men of property ; and that the annual circulation of money, by the multitudes who frequent the purheus of Rag Fair, amounts to 50,000/. The street vvhere this fair is daily held, is properly called Rosemary Lane; on the north side of vvhich, near the west end, stands the Merchant Tajdor's almshouses for fourteen elderly women, who receive \s. 4d. per week, agreeably to the wUl of the founder ; and 8/. 15.?. annuaUy from the company. Richard Hills, master of the company, and founder of Merchant Taylor's school, gave, in 1593, certain small cottages towards founding the alms houses; and alderman Ratcliffe, of the same company, added his benefaction of one hundred loads of timber. Rosemary Lane was formerly called Hog Lane, and reached to Whitechapel. In the year 1574, eight acres of adjoining land were in the possession of Benedict Spinola, a rich Italian merchant, who converted them to tenter grounds and gardens ; and to display in striking colours the estima tion in which mercantile speculations were held, at such a late date, these eight acres were presented, because they •were an annoyance to the archers, and to all the queen's liege people ; and a precept was awarded to the tenants and occupiers of the premises to re?nove their paks.-and fences, and all buildlings made thereon ! - Vol. 11. No^ 35. B b Such 190 LONDON. Such an invasion urged the inhabitants to present to lord treasurer Burleigh the foUowing particulars: " The^same field, before it was so converted as it then was, bad been a distinct piece of ground, not common, nor never commonly used by any archers, being far unmeet for archers to shoot in, by reason of standing puddles, most noisome laystalls, and filthy ditches in and 'about the same. Also the way caUfed Hog Lane, was so foul and deep in the winter time, that no man could p&.ss by the same ; and in summer time men would not pass thereby for fear of infection, by means of the filthi.ness that lay there. So that tbe presenters were utterly deceived, and not well informed in their present ments. Afterwards Benedict Spinola bestowed great cost, and charges upon levelling and cleansing the premises, and made divers tenter yards, by means whereof the common ways and passages about the said eight acres were greatly amended and enlarged, that, all people might well and safely pass. And poor clothworkers by the tenter yards were greatly relieved: for that of late time divers tenter yards in and about London were decayed and pulled down, and the gipund converted to other uses. And, because the queen had lately by proclamation restrained all future buildings and inclosures in the suburbs, they shewed that these tenter yards and gardens were m^de long before the said proclamation," Such representations according with the prudential measures of Lord Burleigh, Spinola met no further molestation in his useful undertakings ; and the tenter grounds, till very lately, were existing in and about Good man's Fields. A narrow street in Rosemary Lane, called King Street, forms a passage to the Tobacco Warehouses, lately the Vic tualling OfEce. Its present state is very different from its antient designation : here stood a magnificent religious foun dation, denominated 'ihe New Abbey. Previous to our account of the foundation of this abbey, it may be necessary to mention, that in 1349 John Cory, a priest, procured of Nicholas, prior of the Holy Trinity, near Aldgate, o^e toft of ground near East Smitiifidd, which LONDON. 191 ¦which he enclosed, for the purpose of burying those who died of a new disease, called the PestUence * : this enclo sure he denominated the church yard of the Holy Trinity, and it was dedicated to that purpose by Ralph de Stratford, bishop of London. The year preceding, was that in which Edward III. had besieged Calais; after the famous surrender of vvhich, the monarch, with his queen, eldest son, and the prime of his nobility, returning by sea to England, the fleet was sur prised by a tempest, in which he lost many of his ships, and' with * In Stovif's Chronicle, this new disorder is peculiarly described : ** There began amongst the East Indians and Tartarians, in 1348, a certain pestilence, which at length waxed so general, infecting the mid dle regions of the air so greatly, that it destroyed the Saracens, Turks, Syrians, Palestinians, and the Grecians, with a wonderful, or rather Jncredible death ; ipspitiuch that those people, being exceedingly dis mayed with Jhe terror thereof, consulted among themselves, and thought it good to receive the Christian faith and sacraments ; for they had in telligence that the Christians vvhich dwelt on this side the Grcekish sea, were not so greatly (more than the common custom was) troubled with sickness and mortality. At length this terrible slaughter passed over into those countries which are on this side the Alps, and from thence to the parts of France, which are called Hesperia, and so by order along into Germany and Dutchland. And the seventh year after it began, it came into England, and first began in the towns and ports joining on the sea coasts, in Dorsetshire, where, even as in other counties, it made the country quite void of inhabitants, so that there were almost none left alive. From thence it passed into Devonshire, and Somersetshire, and even pnto Bristol, and raged in such sort, that the Gloucestershire men would not suffer the Bristol men to have any access unto them, or into their country, by any means : but at length it came to Gloucester, yea, and to Oxford, and London; and, finally, it spread over all England ; and |o wasted and spoiled the people, that scarce the tenth person of all sorts ¦yvas left alive : when church yards were not sufficient and large enough to bury theif dead jn, tljey chose certain fields appointed for that pur pose. Walter Majiny, purchased a piece of ground, called Spital Croft, be longing to St. Bartholomew's Hospital, contaii^ing thirteen acres and a rpd, in which were interred, during the ne5ft year, fifty thousand per sons 5 and John Cory, enclosed another by East Smithfield, for the same purpose. Stratford, bishop of London, dedicated both the grounds. B b| 2 In 19S LONDON. with the greatest difiiculty he came to land. The danger r^ which himsdf, a bdoved consort, a dutiful son, a,nd a, number of faithful suljjects were involved, so agitated: Ed ward's soul, that in the agony of his heart, this great war rior, the subduer of kingdoms, prostrated himsdf in sup plication to Heaven ; and vowed that if the Almighty deigned to relieve him from such imminent perils, he would evince his gratitude by the foundation of a structure dedi cated to rehgious worship. Hovyever the king might have resolved, the promised token of gratitude did not commence. till ten years afterwards, when the nation was nearly depo pulated by the plague. ' In 1359, Edward having obtained the consent of the prior and convent of the Holy Trinity, founded an abbey qf Cistertian, or white monks, which he dedica,ted to St. iyiary of Graces, " in remembrance and acknovvledgnjent of the goodness of Almighty God, and of the Lord Jesus Christ, and of the blessed Virgin Mary ; whom he had often called upon, and found helpful to, him by sea an^ land, in wars, and other perils ; and therefore ordered this house to be called The I\ing'sfree Chapel of the blessed T^irgin of Graces, in memory of those graces or. fayoiy;^ which he had received from her." Edward granted the manors of Grayesend, Leybpum, Leach, Wattingbury, Gore, Parrock, and Bykenore, vvith In Norwich, no less than thirty seven thousand, one hundred. and four persons, besides Mendicants and Dominicans ; and in Yar mouth, seven thousand five hundred and two ; so that the living, which was previously worth seven hundred marks, was reducei to' iOl.Jier year. ' " What time this pestilence had wasted all England, the Scots greatly rejoicing, mocked, and sware oft times, " By the vik death of the Englishmen j' but the sword of God's wrath, slue and cohsuined the Scots in no less numbers than it did the other. It also wasted the Welshmen, and within a while passed over ipto Ireland, where it de stroyed a great number of English people that dwelt there j but such as were right Irish born, that dwelt in the hilly country, it scarcely touched, so that few of them died thereof.','. This terrible calamity commenced in 1348, and continued in one place or other'of these realms till 1337. ' ' ^^. theii; LONDON. 193 their appurtenances, and the advovysons of their .sevftral churches, besides lands in Surrey, &c. to feoffees, forthe endowment of this abbey of St. Mary de Gratiis, which lie denomiiiated also. East-minster. ' These feoffees, in compliance with his will, conveyed all the premises to the abbot and monks, for a term of years, to the intent that they might be given by king Richard IL ia mortmain to them for ever. They afterwards granted their interest in the manors at a certain yearly rent, to Sir Simon Burley, of whom we have made mention, in Leaden- \i,3ll Street ; who, havipg forfeited them with his life, the king, by his letters patent, in the tvyelfth year of his reign, , at the petition .of. the abbot and convent, granted to them the rents and profits, as a suflficient' endowment, until he should otherwise provide for them. After which, by other letters patent, in his twenty- second year, he granted all the qriginal domains, to hold in pure and perpetual alms for ever, for the performance of the religious purposes therein mentioned, and he gave licence to the sui-viving feoffees of Ed\vard HI. to rdease these manors and lands to them *, At the final dissolution of monasteries, the lands and re. veniies having been given to the king, for ever, he granted it to Sir Arthur Darcy, second son of Thomas Lqrd Darcy, who was beheaded in the reign of Henry ; but who, on the family honours being restored, was employed in the wars ^gainst Scotland. He executed these orders .so punctuaUy, and so much to the king's satisfaction, that be was made go vernor of Jersey ; and after he had posseesion of the dis solved aljbey, he entirely demolished it. The greatest part ^vas afterwards occupied by the VictuaUing Office, and the {idjoining grounds converted to smaller tenements. On the iremovai of the Victualling Office to Somerset House, the premises were occupied by tobacco warehouses. These also are giving way to the foundation of an extensive buiklingj about to be constructed for The Mint, which is to be re moved from the Tower, where it has subsisted for ages ; in room of wbich the site of the Mint, in the Tower, is to be occupied by barracks. f iDugda,e Monasticon Anglicanum, Proceedihg 1 54 LONDON. Proceeding to East Smithfidd, we find that here was an- tientiy a fair fifteen days, from the eve of Pentecost to the octaves of Trinity, granted by Henry III in 1229; and, for this purpose, the king issued his briefs to the Iheriffs of Lincoln, Gloucester, Kent, Worcester, York, Norfolk, and Suffolk, as well as to the mayor and ffieriffs of London, by which ,.thelatter were to proclaim the fair, throughout the whole iiailiwick; causing all merchants of their bailiwick alfo to knovv, that they might fecurely come to the fair. We have before had occasion to fpeak' of the extortions ufed "by this monarch, it was therefore necessary that the above provifo should be particularly fpecified in the writ, the necessity of which might have induced the continuation of such specifi cation in future instruments of the same kind, in this neighbourhood was a vineyard belqnging to Geoffrey de MagUavilla*, (corruptly Maudeyill) ip the time pf king Stephen. * This Geoffrey, fteward of Normandy by defcent from his mother, was sent by king Stephen, with Gilbert ea,rl of Clare, to quelj the rebellion in- the Ifle of Ely, which had been fomented by Baldwiii de Rivers, and Nigel, bishop of Ely. Being also conftable of the Tower of London, he was raised from a baron to be earl of Essex, but the empress Maud, having bribed him to her interest Isy large donations and. privileges, such as the fortification of his caftles at pleasure, the office of hereditary chief juftice of Essex, and a confirmation to him of the shriev alty cf that county and Hertfordshire, the ftewardship of Normandy, and the shrievalty of London and Middlesex, he deserted th^ caufe of king Stephen, of which the latter having notice, seized the earl in the court, then at St. Albans ; nor could he obtain his liberty till he had yielded up the Tower of London, and. his caftles of Walden and Pieshey.. So much was he reduced in his circumstances by these seizures, that he became a depredator; he invaded the demesne lands of his sovereign, as well as private property, and plundered the abbies of St. Aiban and Ramsey ; the latter he surprized in the night, and expelling the religious, sold their religious ornaments, vvith the price of which, he rewarded his adherents, and fortified the church. Such accumulated outrages urged his public excommunication ; and having committed ad^ditional enormi ties, whilst he besieged the castle of Burwell, in the county of Kent, hq was shot through the head by an arrow, whilst he was passing withou^ his helmet on account of heat. From LONDON. 195 From East Smithfield a narrow circuitous lane leads to the bank of the Thames, where stood the great Breweries, or as called by the antient maps, the Bere Houfe. This part of public fustenance, was subject to regulation as early as the reign of Henry VII. who, in 1492 licenced John Merchant, a Fleming, to export fifty tuns of Ale, called Berre : and in the same reign, one Geffry Gate, probably a king's officer, spoUed the brew houses at St. Catharine's twice, either for sending too much abroad unlicenced, or for brewing it too weak for home consumption. The demand for, this article from foreign parts, encreased to a high degree ; in the reign . of Elizabeth, five hundred tuns were exported at once, for the queen's use ; probably for the service of her army in the Low Countries, three hundred and fifty barrels to Embden, three hundred to Amsterdam, and again eight hundred to Embden- There seems at this period to have been a free exportation, except when checked by proclamation, on account of the scarcity of corn ; but even then it was permitted by royal licence *. One of the most confiderable brewers of the lafl; reign, was Humphry Parsons, Efq. twice lord mayor. This gentieman, upon a hunting party with Lewis XV. being mounted on a spirited English courfer, contrary to the politejje of the then French court, outstripped the refi; of the company, and was first in at the death. His majefty enquiring, who that gen tleman was ; one of his adulating attendants, indignantiy an swered, that he was " un Chevalier de Malte." The king, however, entering into conversation with Mr, Parfons, asked the price of his horse ; which, the chevalier, with true politenes, answered was beyond any price,' otherwise " than his majefty's acceptance P The horfe was delivered, and ever afterwards chevalier Parfons had the honour of ferving the French nation with his extract of Malte, exclufively of any other. * Pennant. The same author, from " Customs, &c. of London," printed by Pynson, about 1521, has furnished us with the recdpt for making ///if boasted British liquor : " x quarters malte, ii quarters wheete, U quarters ootes, xi pound weight' of hoppys, to make Ix barrels of sengyll beer." Before 1*6 LONDON/ Before we dismiss this part of our fubject, it wUl be nefees^ sary to make a few observations on the jurisdiftion of the city of London within these precincts, as it formerly did, and StiU ought to exist. In our first volume, p. 61. mention is made of the Soke^ denominated Knighten GuUd. The object we have in view, readers it necessary, that a more diffuse account should be given in this place. It appears, as we have before stated, that, in the reign of king Edgar, tliirteen knights, well beloved by the king and realm, for the services they had achieved, requested a certain desolate portion of land, on the east side of the city, •with the liberty of a guild, or fraternity for ever. On the following conditions, their request was granted : " That each of them fhould victoriously accomplish three combats, one above the ground, one under the gronnd, and one under the' water ;" and that after this, they should, at a certain day, irt East Smithfidd, run with spears against all comers. The monarch named this tract Knighten Guild, and founded it as follows : From Aldgate to the place, where fhe bars are now fixed, on the East ; northernly, to Bishopsgate ; and southward to the river Thames, and as far into the water, as a horseman entering the same, might ride at low water, and throw his spear. So that all East Smithfield, with the right side of the street to Dodding pond, (now St. Catharine's dock) into the Thames, and also the hospital of St. Catharine, with the mills, that were founded in the reign of king Stephen ; besides the outward stone wall, and the Tower ditch, were all esteemed to be in this see and liberty. Their descendants having given this domain to the prior of the Holy Trinity ; he vvas constituted by these means, not only the superior of a rehgious assembly, but in consequence of such acquisition, an alderman of London ; so that it ap pears, the privileges of the city were duly preserved ; for the prior and his successors bdng then seized of the soke, as a part of the suburb, and within the liberties of the city, were admitted, as aldermen, and sat in court, attended the mayor, and rode vvith. the other aldermen, clothed in tiie usual habiliments of office, tUl tie dissolution of the house 3 ift LONDON. 197 in 1531 ; after which the ^dignity was supported by a tem poral citizen elected by the free inhabitants of the ward. These various privilc^s and. boundaries were acknow ledged and confirmed by Several English monarchs, the right being contested by the^ city, and. allowed against all in vaders of their property ; and they enjoyed, among other liberties belonging to the citizens bf London, and ratified by divers parliaments, " That no arrest, attachment, or exe cution, should be macle by any officers of the king within the said liberty, eithfer by writ or without writ ; but only by ihe oncers of the city. That, ^the inhabitants of Portsoken, and the Tower ,y;^'ere to be impleaded only in the courts of tbe City, for ail" matters^ ¦ causeS, anil contracts, howsoever arising. That the Tower had no proper' court of its own, but only the court of the baron, which is' no court of re- .cbrcl,as appears by vai-ious records exemplified .^n the King's jBertch. That when feny murder-'or drowning had been vvithin the said hospital of St. Catharine, or the Txjwer, the, City dffipers attached the malefactors within the Tower, miwithsldnding' that ihe king 'himself sometimes happened io hepresiiit within tlie said Tower ; and have carried the said men, so arrested, into some of the king's prisons within the City. That, when tlie justices itinerant have used (fo com^ to keep assizes in the Tower, the officers have had t}\6 Irt^epihg Both of the inner, and outer gates of the said Tovv'erV and' that nothing! vyas executed within the Tower, .which pertained to the "office of a serjeant, but by the ser- i^-ants of the City. That the- sheriffs of London have had ihe charge of all the prisons'^ in. the Tower, so often as thei said justices itinerant bad-' come, as appears by the many? j'olls of pleas of the prowh, and of the said itineraat jiis*' rices." ¦ '• '¦' • ¦'¦ ¦ These valuable privilege?, 'by' violeriGeon one side, and; by' neglect arid' compliance pij the other, have long sinc» beeii abolished. ' ¦ ¦• ¦ ' Returning towards Tower HUl, over the wooden bridge jvliich crosses the dock, in a small enclosure dehominated'- St. Catharine's Squaire, stands the collegiate church of Vol.. JL No.'S«: «•'- Cc i, ¦ -ST. LONDON. ST. CATHARINE,- TOWER. THE hospital, with its precincts, liberties, and pa?- ticularly the parish church, is reckoned in the bUls of nioir ality among the -out- parishes in Middlefcx ; but as Stciv, and othersj have plainly proved it tO belong to Portsokeq ¦ivatd, we describe the whole in this place, as part of the liberties of the city of London; It is situated on the east side of the Tower, and upon the north bank of the Thames. HistoYians seem to have mistaken its original foundation ^ some contending that honour to belong to Maud, queen tq king Stephen ; whilst others are equally strenuous for .Eleanor, widow of Henry III. ; the preference is certainly due to the former. By the consent of her hus^jand, in the 'year 1148, she founded and ricljly endowed an hospital de^ dicated to St. Catharine, in pure and perpetual alms, for the, repose of the souls of her son Baldwin, and her daughter Matilda; who, dying in her life time, were both buried in the church of Trinity priory ; and she obtained the ground ©n which it was built, df that priory, witlj a rhiU.: in ex change for which, she gave a yearly sum of 6/. out of the manor of Bracching, in Hertfordshire. Her foundation consisted of a master, brothers, sisters, and other poor per sons. ' ' , ' ¦ • ¦ ¦ - • ¦ ¦ ¦ 'J - ¦ ¦ ^ The perpetual custody of this hospital was bestowed by the queen, on Trinity Priory, being at that time the richest ' ' ' ¦ ' and LONDON. 199 and most respectable in London : she, however,' reserved to herself :and the. succeeding queens of England, the nomi nation pf the master, or custos of the hospital, upon every vacancy. The grant was confirmed by the king, queen, and Theobald, archbishop of Canterbury, with the sanc tion of pope Alexander II. ; to this, WiUiam de Ypres, a _ short time afterwards, addqd the grant of a tract of land, called Edredes-hede, since denominated Queenhithe, to the priory, on condition of the payment of the annual sum of , '20/. tp this hospital. The prior and convent having enjoyed the custody of St. Catharine's hospital for the space of one hundred "kiid seven years, were displaped, and the hospital dissolved in the most arbitrary and! unjust manner. An abstract of these extraordinary proceedings may be amusing at this distance of time. " In the thirty-ninth of Henry IIL John de. Totynge, prior, and some of the canons of the Holy Trinity, appeared at Westminster before William de Kilkenny, lord chanceUor, Thomas Loydl, lord treasurer, and others, in a suit brought agaipst them by one Stephen, a clerk, by virtue of a suit from qu,qen Alienore, concerning their right to th^ perpetual custqdy of this hpspital. In their defence they exhibited not , oply the charters of king Stephen . and queen Maud; but a more recent one by the present appellant's husband, apd their various confirrnations. .They likewise produced an antient composition entered into between fhem and the hospital of . St^. Catharine, by which they had granted thirty-four shillings and fourpence, in small rents, within divers parishes of London, in consideration of twenty-nine marks sterling, paid them in money by the said hospital, for an annual ^-service of fourpence. These state ments appeared so just to the judges, that they una-nimously decreed in favour of the monastery." Not being able to succeed vvith the judges, the conscien tious Alienore issued a mandate to Ralph Hardel, mayor of London, that an inquisition, in the nature of a £«o War- ranto, migtit be taken before him and all the aldermen. • C c 2 But 200 • LONDON. But the queen was equally unsuccessful with the magfs:. tracy, for thdr unanimous verdict was very pointed and pe*. remptory. They returned, " that the custody of this hos pital did then belong, and ahvaj^s had belonged, to the prior and convent of the Holy Trinity, from the time of king Stephen to that day, 39 Henry III." ¦' The temporal laws being ineffi-ctual for the purpose. which the queen intended, she wrote a letter to Fulk Bas set, bishop of London; wherein she set forth, "that the patronage of the hospital had belonged to her and hei- pre decessors ; that it was become destitute of all discipline, and the goods thereof wasted by the prior and canons of the Holy Trinity, wdiom she had often by letters desired to re store what they had unjustly purloined, and to repair th& ddapidations they had occasioned ; all which letters proving ineffectual^ she prayed the bishop that he would, for the honour of God and St. Katharine, make proper inquisitions; concerning the damages, grievances, &c. and the detention of the charters and seals of the said hospital, by good and honest men of the city of London, as well clerks as laymen, that the truth might appear, and the monks be compeUed, by law, to do what they had refused at her request ; that the persons found guilty might be removed, and justice done to all parties : she further prayed the bishop to restore this.' house to God and St. Katharine entire, and free from all en cumbrances; and appointed one Stephen, a brother of thift house, to act as her attorney." To prove the queen's desire at obtaining possession, the siubsequent irrelevant examination bj' the bishop is very re- Tnarkable. " On St. Giles's day, 1257, the bishop, attended by many other great men, visited this hospital ; having pre viously cited the prior and several bf the canons to appear before him,,, to' answer such questions as he should propound to them. On their appearance, he demanded of them what temporal right they had in the said hospital ? to, which they answered, that they had the same right over tiie brothers and, sisters of this hospital, as they had oyer othei-s of their brothers LONDON. 201 Ijrothers at. different placi^s, who all received tiie habits of their order in chapter, and took their respective oaths be fore the prior and convent. " Being asked what spiritual right they had? they an swered, that they had a spiritual' right by reason of thdf parochial right, because the 'said" hospital was situated in their parish of St. Botolph without Aldgate, and upon their own land. Moreover, that' whatever spiritual right they had in the said hospital, they had it by grant from the bishop' of London. And being questioned by the said bishop how, and in what manner, they had this spiritual right? it was asserted, that he' himself had appointed Uie prese'nl prior, who was legaUy constituted such andin as ample a. ¦manner as amj of his predecessors. To which the bishop replied that all this was trUe-. He then enquired why the said monks had placed one of their own body at the head of this hospital ? They said, that finding the brothers of this hospital used to get drunk, and quarrel every day, they had -constituted. one of their own body ma.ster, in order to re form them, and to bring them to a sense of religion, so» briety, and 'devotion." This plaiiT statement did not operate on the bishop's mind ; he ¦ had received his instructions from the higher powers, and was determined to act accoi-dingly ; lie, there fore, without further process, removed their canon from the mastership of this hospital, and inhibited- the prior and convent, under pain of ecclesiastical censures, from ever after intermeddling vvith the custody of the said hospital ; he likewise inhibited the brothers and sisters, under the same penalty, froni obeying the said prior in any thing; and immediately -granted tl:)e custody and mastership of this hospital, in spirituals and temporals, to one Gilbert, a chaplain of the house ; and he obliged the brothers and sisters to renounce, upon oath, all obedience to the prior, under pain of ecclesiastical censure. This just decision continued till the bishop's death in 1261. His successor, Henry de Wyngeham, at the suggestion of Alienore, went another way to work vvith the prior an dc^nvent. In 1261, having 202 LONDON. having called to his assistance Robert Chay?e, -bishop of Cariisle, and Egidius de Bridport, bishop of .Salisbury, ani other great men of the queen's councU, they sent for the prior, 3,nd: some ofthe canons. Upon their appearance they were .desired unanimously to consent to the renuncia- tion of .their.. right io the custody of this hospital into the harids,^' , the queen. This occasioned much altercation, but thp bishops and the noblenaen having, all firmly asserted that if the, monks refused to comply, they might incur the king's displeasure, and that the king's will had the force of Jaw ; the ; prior 'was so much intimidated by this declaration that he agreed to the surrender, in their presence, by word of mouth only:. , In consequence of this the three bishops granted, un der their spyeral seals, their letters testimonial, declaring the free surrender .to queen Alienore of all the right the said prior and qpnyent had hitherto enjo}'ed; and' by these means this antient .hospital, of ., St. Katharine and the estates thereof eame into. fc^e. queen's, possession, vyho did not suppress it till some years after. ... In the year 1267, pope Urban the IVth, by his bulli endeavoured (but without effect) to prevail upon queen Alienore to reinstate the said prior and convent in the cus tody of this hospital. , . The crafty queen having thus, by her unjust behaviour; compeUed the rich mpjjks of tbe Holy Tripity.to surrender into her, hands the custody of the former hospital of St.Ka- therine, together, with all the revenues thereof? and being now become the widow of king Henry the Third, dissolved it, and foimded here the present royal hospital, dedicated to the same s^int, for a master, three brothers chaplains, and three sisters, ten poor women called bedcs women, and sis. poor scholars. Inthe beginning of the reign of Edward III. the famous iiermetic philosopher, Raimond EuUe *, resided in this hos pital ; • Raimond Lulle, vvas a native of Majorca, born in 123G. He vvas considered in his own time as such a prodigy of learning and science/ that LONDON. 2Q3 ¦pital ; as appears by a MS. copy of his f Testament, con taining his Practice of A'lkemy ;" ' at tbe conclbsioh ' of -which he says, " that he made it in the chirche of Seynte Katerine nexte London, . towards the partie bf the castell afor theThamyse, reigning the king Edward of Wodstok, by the grace of God, king of EngMd ; in the hands of vyliom vve putte in kepyng by will of God the present tes tament, in the year aftei: the Inparnacion 1332, with all hys .volumns, which have been named in the present testament." Another principal benefactress to this hospital was Phi- lippa pf Hainault, queen tq Edward III. She founded a chantry, and gave 10^. in lands' per annum for the main tenance of an additional chaplain, besides vajious manors in Kept and Herts. The charter and statutes of queen philippa, for the regu- tion, of the hospital, contain,' among other things, the co lour, and manner for the vesture of the brethren and sisters ; an account of their diet, sti^pend, number of daily masses^ visitation qf the siqk, and other iiiternal regulations of the lioUse. She also directed that aU savings out of the hospital revenues, and such benefactions as might afterwards be ob-' tained, should belaid out towards finishing the church, be gun spme years before by WiUiain de Eridesby, to which she had liberally contributed; but dying ih 1369, had not the satisfactioq of -seeing her good endeavours accom- jalished. ¦ In 1412, John de Hermesthorp, formerly master, left estates at Greedhithe, in Kent, as a legacy among the mem bers of the hospital. Henry V. confirmed 10/. yearl}'' out df the Hahaper office, for the endowment of the chantry of that he was honoured ¦with the title of Doctor Illuminatus. His logic and art of memory, have been particularly celebrated, but are found not to <|escrve commendation. After applying himself to every branch of sci ence, he losfhis life in the character of a missionary, by being stonjed in Mauritania, whither lie had volunteered' his services to preach the Gospel. His death happened in March 1315, at the age of eighty ; and his body was carried .to Majorca, vvhere he was honoured as a m'Artyr.r— 'Biograjih'tcal Dictionary. '' St. 204 LONDON. St. Fabian, and St.. Sebastian, fomided by Edward, III. Henry VI. was also a gr.csLl benefactor. , But the most considerable was Thomas de Beckham pton *, afterwards bishop of Bath and Wells, in 1443; who, upon bis appointment to be master, finding tbe revenue insuffi cient to maintain tbe members, ,ebt.ained a charter of privi lege to the following purport : . " The precincts of the hospital were asGertain.ed> and de- elared exempt, free, and quit from ,all jurisdietion sepular and ecclesiastical, except that pf the lord chancdipr of England. AU privileges, liberties, and immunities, foiv merly granted, were confirmed. A fair was granted tpba beld upon Tower Hilj, for twenty-one days yeariy^from the first of St. James, then next ensuing ; and a court-leet, with view of frankpledge, within tbe hospital limits, The phat- tels of felons and fugitiv(?s,, and all manner of waifs and strays, and goods, called ynatm-opera f , all fines for tres pass, and other misdeeds whatever ; cognizance of all pleas ; the assise of bread, wine, and beer ; quitting then) of all manner of aids, subsidies, contributions, quotas*, and t^lliages ; and discharging the hospital from the payment pf any clerical tenth, subsidy, or imposition. The master, brothers, and sisters, and their successors, were allowed as. many writs as they sbould see necessajy to prosecute in tlieir name, in chancer^', or any other court, without fee: and, finally, although they and their successors shoiiM hereafter Rot use, or should abiise any of the aforesaid. li berties,., ^ic. ; neverthdess it should be lawful for the same master,, and the brethren and sisters^, to eiijoy and use the same liberties, franchises, and immunities ; such, non-uses or abusing in any wise notwithstanding." John HoUarid, Second son'of Jqhn Holland, duke ofeExeter, (who was beheaded at Pieshey in 1399) was in several expcr ditions in France during the vyarlike reign of Henry V. and haying been .restored in blood, was constituted- lord hi^h admiral of England and Ireland in 1436, and next year ap pointed constable of the Tovver, In 1443, he w^as restpytjti > *¦ Vulgarly Beckington. t Stolen goods taken upon a thief apprehended in the fact. to LONDON. m to the honours of the family, by being Created duke of Exeter, with the special privilege, that he and his heirs male should have precedence iii all pariiaments and coun cils, next the duke of York, and bis hdrs. The duke of Exeter died in 1438, and was buried on the north side of the chancel, having bequeathed many legacies and benefactions to the hospital*. His duchess, at ber decease in 1451, helving by her will directed her executoi', IVIr. John Pynohebeke, doctor in di vinity, to avoid all unnecessary pomp and expence at her funeral + , bequeathed also many donations to the college. Henry Vlll. and his first queen, Catharine of Arragon, founded here the guild, or fraternity of St. Barbara ; whicli was governed by a liiaster and three wardens, and consisted of many of the first nobUity of both sexes, among whom ¦were cardinal Wolsey, the dukes of Norfolk and Bucking ham, the earls of Shrewsbury and Northumberland, and their ladies. In 1526, the king confirmed all the liberties and franchises of the house, which escaped dissolution iu 1534, as is sui>posed, in compliment to queen Anne Boleyn, who the king had then lately married. The first year of Edward VI. the lands of all the chan tries, fraternities, brotherhoods, and guilds, &c. belonging to the hospital of St. Catharine, were, with all others in the kingdom, given, by act of pai'liament, to the crown. Another misfortune befel this religious establishment in the reign of Elizabeth, by the appointment of Dr. Wylson, her secretary, to be master ; for this person having great in terest at court, surrendered up the charter of Henry VI. and obtained a new one, in which was artfully excluded ^<; liberty of the fair. By this contrivance he was enabled to sell the fair to the mayor and commonalty of Lopdpn for the sum of 466/, I3s, 4:d, which became his own property. * The duke's will is printed in " A (jolketioif of feoytf Wills, p. 28?- where an account of his donations is partic,ularly giveA. . ' t This may probably be the reafon why;; her figure wasHQt pla*eSi en her husband's-tnonument, where thesis s4iIici«ntT0oia' *¦ yoi.«. No>36. Pd ^ 20g LONDON. His avarice not being satisfied, it was discovered that he bad formed another plan for securing to himself all the estates belonging to the house, within the hospital precincts; but the spirited representation of the inhabitants to secretary Cecil, completely diverted the destruction of them and their property. It does not appear that this foundation suffered much during the timfe of the Usurpation. On May 26, 1672, a dreadful fire destroyed one hundred houses in the precinct. In 1705, a school for the education of poor children was in stituted; vrhiph is at present in a flourishing condition. Another fire, during the dreadful storm of wind on Ja- nuary 8, 1734, destroyed thirty houses. But the greatest danger which the church, hospital, and liberty sustained, was in the awful year 1780. From tht number of seafaring men, of all nations and religions, with their faUiiUes, who lived in the precinct, it was extrerri^y re markable that no riot, or breach of the public tranquUlity, had been known till this unhappy era ; when Macdotiald, a soldier with one arm, and two women, the one being a white, the other a negro, headed a numerous mob, crying, " No Popery,'* and destroyed the house and goods of John Lebarty, a publican in St. Catharine's Lane.' Inflansed and intoxicated, the rabble were proceeding to demolish the beautiful collegiate church, then newly repaired, on pre tence, as those abandoned women told them, that it had been buUt in the times of popery ; the gentiemen of the London Association, however, arrived before the diabolicil measure took place, atid prevented the demolitioii cf the fabric. Macdonald and the women, expiated their crimes, at a temporary gallows on Tower Hill. ' The CHURCH, or FREE CHAPEL, highly deserves the at tention of the curi6'us ; hut its obscure situatibn had pro cured it no peculiar, .notice till its last repair. in 1-778, when the little priv.ate ecclesia-stical society, who had its go vernance, were enabled^ from the savings of many years, to adorn their venerable church, at a vast expeftici&j but in a. judicious and admirable manner, after the Gothii'stUe. The LONDON, ' 207 The exterior of the buUding was, till very lately, ob noxious to the eye, on account of the charity school vvhich projected at the west end. This, however, has been judi- ciou^y removed, and in its place, a small Gothic tower, with pinnacles, has recently been erected. On entering the church, the body of which, exclusively of the choir, is sixty-nine feet long, sixty broad, and ninety high, the large east window, free fiom the incumbrance of heavy stone work, immediately arrests the spectator's at tention. The flood of light thrown on every part of tha structure from this window, forms a delightful exhibitioii sel- doim t.s» be met vvith, A handsome Gothic screen separates the body from the choir of tbe church. This part of the church where choral service was performed till the afienation of doctor Sir Thomas Wylson, caused it to be abolished, is adoffl- ed with beautiful stalls, was began by WiUiam de Erl- desley, master, in 1340, and finished by John de Her mesthorp, master, in 1369. The antient se^ts are hand somely carved. The altar piece is of exquisite workman ship ; and is the only altar ip thp. pure Gothic stile in Eng- J.^nd, or perhaps in Europe. The lofty piUars in the church are remarkably light, airy and durable; and the windows on each side admit a good light to the whole building. The pulpit is a curious spe cimen of grotesque earving, round the six sides of which is cut " Ezra the Scribe, stood upon a pulpit o.f wood, WHICH IJE H4D made FOR THE PREACHER." I^chen^iah^ t:hap, VIII. A most stately and fine toned organ was built, in 1778, by Mr. Green. It is enclosed in ^, beautiful mahogany case, with spiral worfe, and other Gothic c^irvings. The pipes are of very large dimensiops ; and the instrument bas three sets of keys, full compass, with twenty-one stops, and a sweU. The construction ofthe organ is in many respects Entirely new ; the swell, however, attracts the attention of musical amateurs.; its compass entends from E in alt, tqi gamut, a whole optaye more than usual ; and is five notes P d 2 lower 208 LONDON. lower than that of St. Paul's cathedral ; So that this is the, largest swell in England. The difficulty of increasing the swell deterred many artists from the attempt ; but tbe suc cessful genius of Mr. Green, happily accomplished the ex cellent improvement, which is of so much consequence in this scale of science, that the instrument is frequently vi sited, and constantly approved. The principal monument worthy notice, is that of the n tathe pjvtes of meanest clown.s, Mr. Weever also .says, hece lies buried Con.stance, sister of the said duke John; who was married to Thomas lord Mowbray, duke , pf Norfolk, earl of Nottingham, and earl marshal of England; , end reniarried to Sir JohH Grey, lord Grey of Ruthin. The LONDON. 209 The queens consorts of England are, by law, the per petual patronesses, this hospital being considered part of their dower ; and they nominate, appoint, increase, lessen, or remove, alter old statutes, make new ones, and use im- limited power. Should there be no queen consort, the king CKercises the same authority ; for no queen dowager can interfere ; the dignity and patronage ceasing to her on the death of the sovereign. On this account it is called " The Royal Peculiar of St. Catharine." ' The business of tbe establishment is transacted in chapter by the master, brothers, and sisters, the latter of whom have an equal vote with the brothers ; and no meetipgs are lawful, except four members, one a sister, are present. The subordinate officers, elected by a majority in chapter, area commissary, registrar, steward, surveydr, receiver; 'chapter clerk, besides a clerk, sexton, &c. " « There are also two courts belonging to this district; the Spiritual Court, is a royal jurisdiction for all ecclesiastical causes within tbe precinct : here probates of wills, admi nistrations, marriage licences, &c. are granted, as in other ecclesiastical courts. All appeals are made to the lord chan cellor only. To this court belong a registrar, ten proctors, and an apparitor. The Temporal Court, in which the high steward of the jurisdiction presides, takes cognizance of all disputes within the precinct ; and forms court leets, &c. This tourt haS, besides, a high bailiff, and prothonotary. A disused prison is also belonging to the liberty. The wholeprecinct contains St. Catharine, Thames Street, from the Iron gate eastward to the king's brewhouse ; also St. Catharine's Court, Queen's Court, Three Sisters Close, St. Catharine's Lane, Dolphin AUey, Brown's AUey, Cat's Hole, alias New Court. And from the king's brewhouse, it extends northward on the westward side of the Butcher Row, within five doors op- |i6site to the Maypole ; likewise Unicorn Yard, Whiting _ -Bridge, Helmet Stepsand Court, and the Island. Also fronting Tower HiU, abutting on Aldgate parish, southward tp the Iron Gate ; likewise Plow Alley, Flemish Chufch 210 LONDON. Church Yafd, and the other courts, alleys, Sue, in this compass. After tbe loss of Calais, in the reign of Mary I. the in habitants sought refuge in England, and this quarter of Lon.. don, wa^ assigned to them as residence ; and a lape, then denominated Hammes'and Guisnes, from the places whence they had fled, by corruption, obtained a curious conversion to the .name of Hangman's Gains. St. Catharine's Liberty gave birth to Richard Ferstegan^ an eminent antiquary, and a judicious critic in the Saxon and Gothic languages in the sixteenth and seventeenth cen^ turies. His father, though a cooper, was a descendant from an antient and honourable family in Gudderland. Verstegan ¦was educated at, Oxford, but left the univer^sity without a degree, on account of his professing the Roman Catholic doc., trines; for which reason also he quitted England, and settled at Antwerp. When tbe Jesuits and secular clergy had a misunderstanding in England, Verstegan was in tl^e in^ terest of tbe former. His works are " Theatrum Crudelir tatum Hereticorum nostri temporis." " A Restitution of decayed Intelligence in Antiquities, concerning the most 7ioble and renowned English Natioji " and " The sundry successive regal Governments of England." He died about the year 1625. . Little Tower Hill is the usual place for the execution of stg,te criminals who are not of the peerage ; the last person that suffered was Charles Ratcliffe, brother to the decapife tated earl of Derwent water, in 1715." This gentleman was beheaded in 1746*. Having passed Postern Row, toward Great Tovver Hill, we arrive atan excellent spring, called Postern Spring, which is in great repute for the excellence of its water. At the end of the row was formerly The Poflem, a gatp abutting on part of the city wall. To a reader in the nineteenth century it must be in- ,terestiqg to be infprmed that this waU, before the reign of Bichard I. jreachpd quite to the Tower; for jt is recorded, • ' ' ' * See Vol; L p. 406, ' . . . ... .. ^hat tONDON'. 211 that ih the. year 1190, WiUiam Longehamp, bilhop of Ely, and lord chancellor, caused a part of the city wall from the Postern, toward the river Thames to the White Tower, to be broken down for enlarging that fortress ; which he com passed to a greater extent than before, by a wall, which is now the centre wall of the garrison. Not satisfied with thus robbing the city of its property, he formed the broad ditch yirhich at present surrounds the Tovver, vvith the intent that the riter should flow round at every tide. In this however he faded. These innovations urged the resentment both of ¦government and the people, and proved hisdisgrace*. The Postern, had before this been erected, a strong arched gate, Uke Aldgate, of Kentish and Norman, stone, and had served as a very convenient inlet to the city 5 but Longcham.p's arrogance and folly, in the encroachment abovementioned, caused the rtiin of this .gate; forthefbup- .^ation having been undermined, the superstructure was v^eakened, and in 1440 fell to ruin. It vvaa never re- edified, but in its place, " a homely cottage, with a nar row passage, made of timber, latbj andloam, inhabited by persons of lewd lives," stood in Stow's time. It vvas how ever governed by a custos. The whole is now completely demolished ; and nothing of its recollection" remains' except the name it gives to the row. "We have in the former part of this work traced the cir cuit of the wall which commenced at this place f; we -omit-, ted however to mention, that at the lower, end of .a street denominated The Vjneyard, in this neighbourhood. Is the basis of a Roman tower, about eight feet high, supjjorting a building of three stories : in tiie wall of which was fixed a large stonei, with the following inscription : " Glory , be to God on. high, who was graeipusly pleasgd in a wonderful manner 10 preserve the.Iifes of all the peqple-.in this * See Vol. I. p. 64. •j- The antient citizens of JLoijdon thought the walls of so much con- a?quenqp to th^e city, that, in order to pi-eaerve-^hem. from all incunii braiice% they made an act that no house fJiQuld, ;be .buUt nearer to theJI^ thsy], sixteen feet. house. 2i2 LONDON. house, twelve in number, when the odd wall of this bulwork feU down three stories high, and so broad, as two carts might enter a-breast, and yet without any harm to anie of their persones. The Lord santify this his great providence Unto Ihem. Amen and amen. , " It was Tuesday, the 23d of September, 1651." In Woodroffe Lane, are fourteen almshouses, founded by Sir John MUborne, mayor, in 1521, foraged poor men and their wives ; they are under the patronage of the Drapers Company. Adjoining is Savage Gardeiis. This was part of the pos sessions ofthe dissolved monastery belonging to the bro^ thers of the Holy Ci-oss, or Crutched Friars. Henry VIII. having granted the site to Sir Thomas Wyat, the elder *, that gentleman erected a mansion upon the spot ; which afterwards was possessed by John Lord Lumley, a cele brated warrior in the same reign, who distinguished him self at Flodden Field, b}- his valour and the number of men he brought into the battle. His zeal for the Popish in terest, however, urged him to engage in the rebellion de nominated ^' The Pilgrimage of Grace ;" from the effects of vvhich, he with much dexterity extricatfed himself and his adherents. His only son soon after lost his head for being concerned in another insurrection. John Lord Lumley, grandson of the first, was among the few nobility of that time who had a taste for literature. His sister married Hum phrey Liwyd, Esq. the Denbighshire antiquary ; by whose assistance Lord Lumley formed a considerable library, part of which is at present a valuable portion of the British Museum. '* This was the gentleman whom Anthony Wood calls " The Delight of the Muses, and of Mankind." He had the honour to be in great imimaey with the congenial peer, Henry Earl of Surrey. They were the joint refiners of English poetry ; and their elegant elTusions are anited in a little book published in 1S85, intittedy « So»ges and Sooneis, by the right honorable Henry Howard, late Earl of Surrey, and others." j§ir Thomas died in 1541, of a violent fever, in Dorsetshire, contracted. by hard riding, to conduct to court the emperor's ambassador, who had landed at Falmouth. He was highly celebrated by his noblfe- friend, ani by every person of genius in the age in which he lived. Pennant. 5 Tie LONDON. 213 The next inhabitant was Sir Thomas Savage, afterwards Lord Savaj^e, and Earl Rivers, in the reign of James I. and Charies I. ; from, the latter nobleman the estate take its name of Savage Gardens. . ¦ . Returning to Tower Hill, the perambulator is attracted by a stone building, caUed THE TRINITY HOUSE. This stjructure is a beautiful specimen ofthe ability of Samuel "Wyatt, Esq. It forms a grand front of tvvo series opposite the Tower, toward the Thames ; the lower story is composed of rustic work, with arched w.indows ; the up- per, consisting of the. court room and adjoining apartments, forms an assemblage of elegance without incumbered orna ments. The two ends of the front project from the centre, the whole bdng supported by. pUlars and pilasters ; as are the two ends and the midddle vvihdbws, vvhich afford a .Spa cious light to the inlide of the building. The interior is equally chaste and. beautiful. The court room is spacious, light,. and con^yenient, , and the other offices are properly adapted for transacting the various concerns of this bene volent and .useful corporation! Among the curiosities preserved in the old hall ofthe Trinity House, situated in Water Lane,/rbwer Street, were a flag taken from the Spaniards by Sir Francis Drake ; the portraits of that great commander. Sir John Leake, and other eminent men ; a large and exact model of a ship en tirely rigged"; two very' large globes, and five fine pen-and- ink drawings of naval engagements in. the reign of Charles II. These now form part of the furniture of the present fabric. , ¦ The society, to which it belongs, was founded in the/ year 1515, by Sir Thomas Spert, knt. commander of the great ship Henry Grace de Dieu, and comptroller of the navy to Henry "VIII. for the regulatioij of seamen and' the convenience pf ships and mariners on our coast, and incor porated by the above-mentioned prince, who confirmed to them not only the antient rights ahd privileges of the com- VoL. II. No. 36. E e pany 214 LONDON. pany of mariners of England, but their several possessions at Deptford ; which, together with the grants of Queen Eli zabeth and King Charles II. were also confirmed by letters patent of the first of James II. in 1685, by the name of ' The Master Wardens and Assistants of the GoUd or Fra ternity of the most glorious and undivided Trinity, and of St. Clement, in .the Parish of Deptford Strond, in the County of Kent." - This, corporation is 'governed by a master, four war dens, eight assistants, and eighteen elder brethren ; but tiie inferior members are of an unlimited number, for every master or mate expert in navigation may be admitted as such ; and these serve as a continual nursery to supply the vacancies among the elder brethren, when removed by death or otherwise. The master, wardens, assistants 'and elder brethren, are by charter invested with the foUowing powers : 1 . That of examining tbe mathematifcal children of Christ's Hospital. 2. The examination of the masters of hi& majesty's ships ; the appointing pilots to conduct ships in and oUt of the river Thames ; and th^ amercing all such as shaU pre sume to act as master of a ship of war or pilot, without their approbation, in a pecuniary mulct of 20s. 3. The settling the several rates of pilotage, and erect ing light-houses and otiier sea-marks upon the several coasts of the kingdom, for the security of navigation ; to vyhicb light-houses all ships pay one halfpenny a ton. 4. The granting licences to poor seamen, not free of tiie tily, to row on the river Thames for their support, in the intervals of sea service, or when past going to sea. 5. "The preventing of aliens from serving on board ¦ English ships, without their hcence,- upon the penalty of 5l. for each offence. ' . 6. The punishing of seamen for desertion or mutiny in the merchants service. 7. The hearing and determining the Complaints of offi cers and seamen in the merchants service ; but subject to an LONDON. 219 STi appeal to the lord.s df the Admiralty, or th? judgment of 'the court of Admiralty. To thi^ company belongs the ballast office for clearing and deepening the river Thames, by taking from thence a sufficient quantity of baUast for the supply of all ships that^ sail out of that river ; in which service sixty barges, with two men in each, are constantly employed ; and all ships that take in baUast pay them one shiUing a" ton, for which it is brought to the ships sides. In consideration pf the great increase of the poor c£ this fraternity, they are by their chanter impo^rered to pur chase in mortmain lands, tenements, &c. to the amount of SOO/. per annmn ; and also to receive charitable benefactions of well-disposed persons to the like amoant pf 500/. per V aHnum, clear of reprizes. There are annually reUeved by this company , about three thousand poor seamen, their widows and orphans, at the expence of about 6000/. Their meetings are generaUy on Wednesdays and Sa turdays ; but thdr eourts are not constantly fixed to a set time. The area before the T^'inity House, formerly the awful scene of public executions and of midnight plunder, is now very hapdsomely railed in, and encloses a very beautiful «hrubbeiy. So tiiat Great Tower Hill is formed into an aa-y .and beautiful square. Near Catharine Couyt, is the house which was appointed ibr the reception of state malefactors, previously to their ejSf ecution on the scaffold opposite. The last who underwent this awful sentence of the law which they had offended^ were the lords KUmarnoek, Balmerino, and Lovatt, for the r^be].. iion in 1 745 , and of whom we h^ve already spoken more iparticularly. In Baarking Alley stands the .church of E e 2 ALHALLOWS 21« LONDON. ALHALLOWS BARKING. THIS is an antient, spacious, and ¦ beautiful church, and is denominated Barking, as belonging to the abbess and convent of thjit name in Essex, who possessed a field in this parish called Berkingcs Haw ; and they were the pa tronesses of the living till the dissolution of the' abbey. On the north side of the church vvas built a chapel, founded by Richard I. whose heart is supposed to have been buried here. This chapel was confirmed and augmented by Ed. ' ward I. Edward IV. gav^ license for founding a brother hood of a master and brethren, and appointed it tp be called the King's Chapel, or Chantry in Capellte Beata Mariee de Barking. King Richard III. rebuilt it, and founded a college of priests. Newcourt mentions a curious circumstance relating tO ^this religious foundation. He says, " But what was most remarkable in the said chapel, vvas the image of the glorious Virgin, erected there by Edward I." The story of which, as I find it among the archi-fres of the bishops of London, you may read at large in the original instrument. (Lib. Gilb. f. 194.^ The purport whereof is as foUoweth : " In the. chapd abovementioned king Edward I. before tliedeatljof kitig Henry III. his father, being directed by a 5 vision LONDON. . 217 vision in his sleep, 'caused the image of the glorious Virgin to be erected ; upon bis visiting whereof five times eve,ry year, when in England, and keeping tbe chapel in repair, he was assured by the^said vision to be most victorious over all nations wherever he was ; to be king of England when his father was dead; and to be a subduer of the Welsh, and all Scotland. Tbe like success was promised to^ every just English monarch upon the hke performances. After this, the said king Edward voluntarily maketh oath before the pope's legate, that all things shewn unto him in his sleep as aforesaid, he had hitherto found to be most true ; they thereupon, that the said chapel might with due ho* nour be frequented, released forty days penance to all true confessing penitents, who out of devotion should come and contribute to the lights, repairs, and ornaments of the said chapel, and for the soul of king Richard, whose heart lay buried there under the high altar, and for the souls of all the faithful deceased ; and should say the Lord's Prayer, with the Salutation in English, as often as they were piously inclined" The generality of English historians have written that Richard's heart was buried at Roan, in Normandy. The above words of- the instrument, however, contradict most positively their as.sertion. Be this as it may, the image of our Lady of Barking was of such repute, that crowds of pilgrims constantly resorted to pay their devotions here. The^-e were other chantries founded by devotees in this church. The college was suppressed and pulled down in the year 1548,' the seconc! of Edward VI. ; and in queen Elizabeth^s reign was convertpd to storehouses for merchants. On the 4th of January 1649, about sixty houses were blovyn up by an explosion of twenty-seven barrels of gun powder, which accidentaUy took fire at a ship-chandler's in Tower Street. It unfortunately happened, that a parish feast was then held at the Rose Tavern, next door but one to the church, at vvhich the principal part of the parishioners were as.-,tmljled ; all of whom perished, and were mangled in 2i8 LONDON. in a most dreadful manner, except the nfistress of the tavern » who was found sitting upright in the bar, and a drawer stand ing without it, witb a pot in his hand, both being suffocated witb smoke and dust, and preserved in these postures by the casual falhng of timber, without the least sign either of frac ture or GOfltusion. But the most remarkable circumstance was, a cradle with a child in 'it, blown upon the upper leads *jpf this church, and was taken down next day, without re ceiving the least damage. The church, however, escaped the fury of the great fire. The construction of this edifice is in the modern Gothic stile; but spme of the pillars on the west and sou_th sides are Tuscan. The roof is neatly ceiled with timber, a hand.some organ graces the west end, the case of which is ornamented ¦with the figures of Time and Death. There are also very handsome screens, door-cases, and otheic appropriate orna ments of wainscot, with fluted Corinthian pillars. The altar is of the same order of architecture, and'is richly carved. Among the monuments are the following : A small white marble, to the memory of the exceUent divine Mr. John Kettlewdl, who died April 12, 1695, aged 42 years. Along Latin inscription records his many virtues. On the south side, a spacious white marble tomb thus in scribed : "Near this place lyeth the body of James Hickson, Esq. who died 16 of June, in the year of our Lord 1689, of hrs-age 82. Who in his life time built an alms-house for six poor people in the parish of S. Mims, in the county of Middlesex, and at his death endowed -the said alms house with a salary of 241. per ann. with some other advantages. He also founded a school in Plough-yard in this parish, for the educating 20 poor children ; to the head master of which he ap pointed 201. per ann. his dwelling house and two chaldron of sea \cole, and to a writing master 81. per ann. He also gave to the poor freemen of Ihe Brewers Company lOl. per ann. to the poor of the hamlets of Wapping, White-Chappel, 31. per ann. And to 15 poor people of this parj-sh two shifts, one pair of hose, and one pair of shoes yearly. Jilso LONDON. 239 Also to the minister of tliis parish, 20 s. per aim. for a sermon (o be preached yearly on new-year's day, and to the clerk arid> sex- ¦ ton 5s. For the .performing' of which, he gave a1I his manor of Williats and certain other lands and tenements in S. Miins aforesaid, in trust to the worshipful company of brpwCrs in London. He also gave several other charitable: legacies to be paid by lias executors, in memory of which pious and charitable adls, and as a testimony of their gratitude ; Elizabeth Peach 'and Dorothy Wright executors of'his last will, ereSed this monument." Near the last is the mOinument of a man and woman ia praying attitudes, and thus inscribed : " In the ile against this place lyeth the body of Francis Covell citizen and skinner of London. He lived in this parish 52 years, wa.s married to his wife 42 years, had issue by her Thomas his only son. He had bom all offices in his company aijd this ward with good reputation; was in his Hfe religious, peaceable and .charitable, and at his death gai^e clothing to the poor of this parish yearly for ever, he lived 69 years, and rendered his soul in peace to God, Sept. 7th. 1625. — , ' " As also in the same Ue lyelh Margery his wife, who lived a widow by the space of 19 years, ^nd having attained to the age of 85 years peaceably surrendered her soul into the hands of heir Re- • deetoer the 20th of Feb. J 643, leaving behind her a good remem-^ brance of her pious life to the poor of this parish for ever upon jsecord." On the north side, a white marble monument, from the" centre of which rises a, large Tuscan column, surmounted by an urn. The shaft of the column has the following inscription : " Near this place lyeth the body of Giles Lytcott, late of Strat ford Langthortae, in the county of Essex, Esq. younger son of Sit John Lytcott of Maulsey, in the courity of Surry, by Mary daugh ter of Sir Nicholas Overbury, and sister to Sir Thomas Overbury who was poison'd in the Tower. He was born 21 of Nov. 1633, and dyed, Aug. 1 1. 1696. in fhe 63 year of his age. He was the first comptroler general Of all the accompts of the customs of Eng land, and of all the English colonies in America; which ofEce he executed from Michaehnas, Anno 1671. to the time of his death. He married Sarah daughter and h?ir of Richard Culling of Wood- hadSf 220 ' LONDON. la'nds, in the counly of Devon. Gent, by whom he had 3 sons and ¦6 daughters; his eldest son Gile.s dyed in the East-Indies, in the Slreights of Molucca, going to China, in the year 1688. Hi.i? se- , cond son dyed in the 'West-Indies, commander of his Majesties ship the Pembrook, 10 months after his father, and aged 27 years. He had served his Majefty king William in all the war with France, and was in all engagements by sea during the. war, but dyed in the squadron under the command of Admiral Nevil, in the fatal .sick ness, wherein so many brave men lost their lives." Near this is another, to the memory of Dr. Baldwin Hamey, a respectable physician to the grand duke of Muscovy, and practised for forty-two years with great credit. He died in 1540, at the age of seventy-two. The exterior of this church has nothing extraordinary, except being kept clean. The tower of brick contains six bells, and is encumbered on each side by dwelling houses> which in case of any accident by fire, might be of great con sequence to the destruction of the whole fabric. Captain John Hotham, who Was beheaded on Tower- hiU, January 1st, 1644, lies in the church. Granger informs us that, " Sir John Hotham, a man of a timid and irresolute natur;e, and without any firm principles of attachment to king Charles I, or the parliament, was by the latter appointed go vernor of th«i town of HuU, the most considerable magazine of arms and ammunition in the kingdom. Charles, perceiv ing to what lengths the commons were proceeding, vvas de* termined to seize this fortress ; but was peremptorily refused admittance, when he appeared before it in person, by^ the go vernor, who was instantly proclaimed a traitor. Though Hotham was employed, he was not trusted ; his son, Captain Hotham, who was much more devoted tothe parliament, was a constant check and spy upon him. At length, both father and son were prevailed upon to listen to the overtures of some of the royalists, and to enter into a correspondence with them; This quickly brought them to the block. They died unla- mented by either party ; and were, by many, ^-egarded as victims to the just vengeance of heaven, rather than martyrs to the royal cau»e." Humphrey LONDON. 221 tJumphrey Mdhmouth^ draper '.and sheriff, in 1535, was buried in the church-yard. Strype informs us, that he was a great ornament as wdl as alderman of the' city; being a person of good wealth and great charity, in promoting the true knowledge of the Gospel. He harboured the martyr Tyndall, and encouraged his English translation of the New ' Testament, to the printing of which he largely contributed. This brought down the vengeartce of Sir Thomas More, the lord, chancellor, by whose means he was committed to the ToweC ; the power of Cromwell, earl of Essex, and Sir Thomas Audley, however, reserved him from the persecu tion which awaited him. By his will, dated 1537, he ap pointed bishop Latimer, Dr. Barnes, Dr. Crome, and Mr. Taylor, all gdspellers and famed preachers, to expound the scriptures in this church, at two sermons each week, till thirty sermons had been preached ; which he conceived would be of more utility than saying masses for his soul ; and for this purpose he left thoSe divines a -legacy ; he explicitly forbad the ordinary superstition of candles, singing Dirige, and ringing bells at his funeral ; and to evince his gratitude for his prote6iors, he bequeathed legacies to lord Cromwell and lord chancellor Audley. " In this church, says Pennant, were also deposited, for a time, the bodies of the accomplished Henry Howard, eirl of Surrey, and tvvo eminent prelates, who ended their sufferings by the axe, on Tower Hill. The remains of the earl v^re removed, in 1614, to Framlingham in Suffolk; thoseof the pious Fisher, bishop of Rochester, whose head had been ex posed on a pole at London Bridge, were removed to tbe cha pel in the Tower, to rest by the side of his equally unfortu nate friend Sir Thomas More ; those of .the venerable, the indiscreet archbishop Laud rested hare from 1644 till 1663, when they were' finally deposited in St. John's College, Ox ford, over which he had presided." An hospital for poor priests, and for lunatics wa^s intended in this parish as early as the reign of Edward III. but the. design not bdng completed, the revenue vvas granted to the Vol. II. No. 37. Ff hospital 222 LONDON. hospital of St. Catharine, tbe custos and chapter of whicb were to find a chaplain to pray for the soul of Robert Denton, the original founder. Returnmg to Tower HiU, previously to visiting the Tower, we cannot dismiss the subject, without offering an opinion concerning the foUowing passage in Shakspere's Henry VIII. act V, scene in. " These are the youths that thunder at a play-house^ and fight for bitter apples; that no audience, but the Tribu lation of Toxeer Hill, or tbe limbs of Limehouse, their dear brothers, are able to endure. I have some of 'em in Limbo Patrum, and there they are like to dance these three days:" Dr. Johnson supposes the Tribulation of Tower HiU, to have been a puritanical meeting house ; and of the same opi nion is "Warton. Steevens seems to confirm these opini- ©ns by extracts from " Every Alan in his Humour," &c» and adds that Limehouse before the time of Shakspere, was a resort for foreigners of every persuasion ; the clashing of opi nions occasioned quarrels, and this might occasion the deno mination " Limbs, or rather lambs of Limehouse." Malone thinks- the epjpression " to point at some apprentices and in ferior citizens, who used occasionally to appear on the stage for amuse. ;ient." This he endeavours also to strengthen by noticing plays " acted by London 'prentices." Henley, with much asperity attacks Johnson and Warton for their no tions concerning the Tribulation, as a puritanical conven ticle ; and adds, " It is evident the Tribulatioti, from its si tuation, must have been a place of entertainment for the rab ble of its precincts, and the Limbs of Limehouse such persons. as furnished out the shew." "With due deference to the opinions of the above learned critics, we presume to differ from them in every point, for the following cogent reasons : The epithet Tribulation, was not the name given to the seceders in the reign of queen EU- zabeth; nor did any title except that of puritans, attach to that body till the Civil Wars furnished the nonsensical tities which the Presbyterian party made use of, and which Butier and LONDON. 22S and the other wits of tbose times justly satyrized ; nor had they any places of worship to give a sanction to Johnson, Warton, or Steevens's interpretation of Shakspere. Malone is nearer to the mark ; though far from the exact "meaning of the text; and i^^'nZe?/ with all his attempt at shrewdness, has evidently mistaken the; wliole. If vve take the text with the context, we shall find that the porter, when in a passi.-fi on account of the rabble who had forced into the palace at the christening of princess Elizabeth, asks " Do you take the court for Paris garden? ye rude- slaves, leave your gaping." Now Paris garden was a place of resort for the lovt^est rabble, to see bear-baitings ; and is denominated by Ben Jonson " that accursed ground the Paris , garden !" This the porter confirms, by saying to one of them, " Belong to the gallows, and be hang^'d, you rogue. Is this a place to roar in ?" To which the porter's man addsj *' 'Tis as much impossible to scatter them, as' tis to keep them asleep on May-day morning •" May-day in these times was esteemed the great holiday of vulgarity ; as has been noticed in the account of Evil May-day. The porter goes on *' Is this Moorfields to muster in ?" This might allude to a riot which had taken place in Moorfields some time before. He - then proceeds to the above allusion to The Tnbulation; and here we submit that it related neither to religious or theatrical conventicles ; but to the gallows which had been erected on Tower Hill from the reign of Edward IV. and which is re presented in all the maps of London to Shakspere's time. It is well known that the melancholy' scenes of execution, are too often subjects of sport and derision among the lower classes, who usuaUy form the audience at such lamentable representations ; and here we have no doubt but that this was the poet's meaning. The court at the christening of Eliza beth was at Greenwich, and as Limehouse was opposite, and at that time an obscure habitation of noisy mariners, it is not improbable that the Limbs of Limehouse applied to such a noisy, ungovernable set of beings. This conjecture is strength- . ened by the observation of the lord chamberlain : F f 2 ' "Ye 224 LONDON. -Ye have made a fine hand, fellows. There's a trim rabble let in ; are all these Your faithful friends o' the suburbs?" It is well known that the suburbs in this and tbe preceding reigns were places of irregular, and too often, of dishonest resort. We have only to add that Tower HUl for many years yras the scene of an annual exhibition of fireworks, on account of tbe king's birth day, which vvas discontinued in the pre sent reign. THE TOWER. This fortress is in a well chosen situation, and lies to the eastward of London, and near enough to cover all the city from invasion by water, being only eight hundred yards from the bridge ; and to the north of the river Thames, from vvhich it is parted by a narrow ditch and convenient wharf': it has a communication, by a drawbridge, for the readier issuing and receiving ammunition, and naval or mi litary stores. The wharf is mounted with upwards of 60 pieces of cannon, nine pounders, chiefly used to fire upon days of state. ParaUel to the wharfj. within the walls, is a plat form, seventy yards in length, called the Ladies Line, shaded within by a lofty row of trees, and also a delightful prospect of t!ie shipping, vvith boats passing, and repassing on the river Thames. The ascent to this line is by stone steps, vvl;ence there is an uninterrupted walk almost round the walls of the Tower, passing three batteries ; the first called the Devil's Battc!Vy, which has a platform, mounted with seven pieces of cannon, though on the battery itself are only five ;.\t!i^> next, called the Stone Battery-, defended by eight pieces of cannon ; and the third, called the, Wooden»Battcry, mounted with six pieces of cannon; alt nine pounders. The pj-incipal entrance into the Tower is by the west gate,, wilich is large enough to admit coaches and heavy carriages ; after having been first admitted through an outer gate, and passed a stout stone bridge, built over the ditch, to the main entrance, There is besides, an entrance for persons I I ' -"^Li::^^ ...'4^'^^^^1^ ^'.« ¦ '/..., M„ , J .....J/, - .'..,^y.://.:„/,.,„„^'s/, ...„/,/„¦„ y'-Ci'/'" T.RAUT.0.R.'5 .r-ATB, TO ^VEiR Ol' 7,0>'l50.v. _ /„//U,„/ /,,.>.y/,„'/.:./«,.«.//..„,y/,//.. /„./'¦! „t„„- LONDON. 225 persons on foot, over .the drawbridge, to the wharf, opened every day .at a certain hour' for the convenience of a free intetcourse'between the respective inhabitants bf the Tower, City, and suburbs. Through a water gate, -commonly called Traitoris Gate, it has been custoihary fo convey traitors, and other state prisoners to or from the Tower, for greater privacy, and this is" seldom opened on any other occasions ; the lords committed to the Tower in the last re bellion werp, however, publicly admitted at the main en-^ trance. Over this is a regular buUding," terminated at each end by tvvo, bastions, or round towers, on which are em brasures, for pointing cannon. In this building are the in firmary, the mill, and the water-works that supply the Tower with water. The points of a large portcullis are perceptible within the arch of the principal gate. This was used, in case of close invasion, to be let down, from the inside of which the be sieged mio'ht shoot arrows, at the assailants throuofh the square apertures of the portcullis ; whilst others from the battlements, hurled stones, hot water, or Sny other destruc tive materials on their heads. The representation of aport- cullis is exhibited in the armorial bearings of the city of Westminster. Grdat ceremonj' is used at opening and shutting this gate every night' and morning. Before six in the morning in summer, and at day light in wipter, the yeoman porter goes to tiie governor's house for the keys ; whence he pro ceeds to the innermost gate, attended by a serjeant and six men from the main guard ; this gate being opened to let them pass, is again shut, while the yeoman porter and the guard proceed to open the three outermost gates, at each of which the guards' rest their fireloclis, as do the spur guard while the keys pass and repass. At the yeoman porter's re turn to the innermost gate, he calls to the warders in wait ing, totake.'in king George's keys ; the gate is then opened, and the "keys lodged in the warders hall till the time of locking, which is usually about eleven at night, with the sfime formality as when opened; after they are shut, the yeoman 22S LONDON. yeoman and guards proceed to the main guard, who are all under arms, with the officers upon duty at their head ; the usual challenge from the main guard to the yeoman porter is, "Who comes there .^"' his answer is, "The. keys." The challenger says, " Pass keys ;" upon which the officer orders the guard to rest their firelocks ; the yeoman porter then says, " God save king George." " Amen" is loudly answered by all the guard. From the main guard the yeo man porter with his guard proceeds to the governor's lodg ings^ where the keys are left ; after which no person can go out or come in upon any pretence whatsoever tUl next morning, without the watch-word for the night, which is kept so secret, that none but the proper officers, and the Serjeant upon guard, ever come to the knowledge of it ; the same precaution is used on the same night in every fortified place throughout the king's dominions. When the watch word is given by any stranger, to the centinel at the spur guard, (or outer gate) he communicates it to bis serjeant, who passes it to the next oa duty, and so on till it.comes to the governor, or commanding officer, by whom the keys are re-delivered to the yeoman porter, as before ; the main guard is then put under arms, and the keys are brought to the outer gate, where the stranger is admitted, and con ducted to the commandant. Having made known his bu siness, he is re-conducted to the outer gate and dismissed; ' the gate is then shut, and the keys arc again delivered with all the preceding formalities. The principal buildings within the walls are the "White Tower, the chapd, the offices of Ordnance, of the Mint, of the keepers of the Records, the Jewel Office, ' the Horse Armory, the grand Storehouse, in which is the SmaU Ar mory, houses for the chief officers residing in the Tower, with many smaUer houses for other officers, &c. and bar racks for the soldiers on duty, besides prisons for state de linquents, which are commonljr in the warders houses. White Tower. Whether or not there was a fortress erected by the Romans in this place, we have risqued an opinioa LONDON. 221 opinion upon the subject in our first volume *. We there-, fore leave this undecided matter of controversy, and refer to the register books of the bishops of Rochester, where it is recorded that the great white and square Tower was erected as a place of security by WiUiam I. about the year 1078, lest he should be surprized by the citizens of Lon don, of Whom, as an usurper to the English throne, he had reason to be afraid. This bulwark of defence was left to the management of Gundulph, bishop of Ro chester, who was appointed surveyor and overseer of the work, and lodged during the time it was building at the house of Edmere, a burgess of London. Having been damaged by a storm, in thq reign of Wil liam Rufus, it was repaired by that monarch, who, as Henry of Huntingdon writes, " chaUenged the investiture ©f prelates ; and pilled and shaved the people with tribute, especiaUy to spend about the Tovver, aud the great hall at "Westminster." He, and his successor Henry I. caused a castle to be built under this tower, towards the Thames, and encircled the -whole with fortifications. We have before mentioned that Geffery de Magnavdlle, fortified this tower against his sovereign king Stephen ; as well as of the encroachment of Longchamp, bishop of Ely, in the reign of Richard I. Matthew Paris informs us, " that the bulwarks which had been erected by Henry III. at, the expence of twelve thousand marks, fell down, to the great joy of the ci- tizens ; as they were intended to be prisons for the confine ment of those who resisted the king's arbitrary measures. He also repaired the White Tower." Edward I. in 1274, commanded the treasurer of bis exchequer to dehver out of his treasury, unto Giles of Antwerp, two hundred marks of the fines taken of divers merchants, or usurers of London, towards the work of the ditch ; then new made about the bulwark, called the Lion Tower. The White Tovrer underwent a considerable repair in 1532, during the reign of Henry VJII. In the reign of George II. the walls * Page34j and 22S LONDOK. and windows of this tower being Very much decayed,' tWO of the turrets were tajien down and wholly ecbuilt ;. besides / other substantial reparations iq the present reign. This interior fortress is a large square irregular building, situated almost in the centre of the Tower, no one side an-^ swcring to another. The' building consists of three very lofty stories, under which are commodious vaults, chiefly filled with salt-petre. The top is covered with flat leads, whence there is an extensive and delightful prospect. " ' In the first story arc two noble rooms, one a small armory for the sea service, having various sorts of arms laid up for more than ten thousand seamen. In the other room are closets arid presses filled with warlike tools and other instru ments of death. Over these are two other floors, one filled principally with arms, the other with arms and armoui;ers tobis, such as chevaux-de-frize, pickaxes, spades and shovels. In the upper story are kept match, sheep-skins, tanned hidfes, &c. and' in another little room ave deposited the records, containing ma,ny antient usages and privileges. , On the top of this tower a large cistern, or reservoir, supplies the whole garrison with water in case of necessity : it is about seven feet deep, nine in breadth, and about sixty in length ; and is filled from the Thames, by means of an engine very ingeniously contrived. One of the apartments of this fabric was a very antient chapel, dedicated to St. John, for the use of such royal per sonages as resided here, and is of Norman architecture. Jt is oblong, and rounded at each end : on each side are five thick short round pillars, vvith vast squared capitals cut in various forms, with a cross on each side ; the arches are round, and suitable to the date of the architecture. At the east end are two, pillars of simUar form. Above is a gal lery with arched windows, looking into the chapel, sup posed to be for the use of females. The columns pass' through, quite to the ground floor. This chapel is now part of the Record office. Ill the room, denominated the Council Chamber, many important consultations were held ; but none so infamous as 5 ' that LONDON. 229 that io which Richard III. when duke of Glocester, ordered the murder of the trusty and noble Lord Hastings, on the block ; and meditated the destruction of Lord Stanley and ethers of the nobility. To the southward of the White Towev is the Modelling Room ; but to this no stranger is admitted. The Office of Ordnance is kept in Cokl H^trbour; to this oflfice all other offiqes for supplying artillery, arms and am munition, or other Wiarlike stoi'es, are accqyntable ; and all orders for the disposition of warlike materials for every kind of fervice are hence issued. This building, having been finished in a very commodious apd handsome style, was, in the year 1789, totally destroyed by fire; but ^t if now rebuilt in such a manner, as vvill prevent a similar accident.* The Mint is the office for coining gold, silver, and cop per, and is conducted by a number of officers, whose titles and employments are as follow : The Warden .-i-His business is to receive the silver, &c. from the goldsmiths, to pay for it, and to superintend all the other persons belonging to the office. ¦* In antient times, before the use of gonpowder was knovvn^ the business of this office was condufted by officers who were distinguished by the names of bowyer, the cross-bo wyer, the galeator, the armourer, and the keeper of the tents. The business of the bowyer was to make and take care pf the bows ; the cross-bowyer provided accoutrements far the bgvYS ; the galeator was purveyor of the helmets or head-pieces : the ^rmourer was the keeper of the king's armour within the Tower : and the business of the keeper of the tents is fully explained by the title itself. Besides the above-mentioned, there was a master smith, whose pay, ia the reign of Edward the first, was 'four-pence halfpenny per day from the crown, and three-pence per day from' the 'Warders or Tower-guards : likewise a mast'er-mason, and a master carpenter, each of whom had twelve pence per day, payable at tho Exchequer, and a' robe once a year. The Office of Ordnance continued under the direction of the above- mentioned officers till the reign of Henry the Eighth, v,'lio gave the ma nagement of it tp a master, heutenant, surveyor, &c. and in this manner , it has continued, some improvements excepted> to the present time. ... . Vol.. II. No. 37. G g The 230 LONDON. The Master- Worker, receives the sUver, &c. from the warden, orders it to be melted, delivers it,- and receives it back from the moniers. . Tbe Comptroller's business is to sec that the money is made to a just assize, to overlook and control the other officers, if the money is not proof. The Master of the Assay weighs the bullion, and takes cai"e that it be according to the standard. The Auditor inspects and settles the accompts. The Surveyor of the Melting sees the bullion cast out, and that the metal is not altered after the trial by the assay-master; and being delivered to the melter. The Clerk of the Irons takes care that the working irorts are kept clean and fit for use. The Engraver is employed in engraving the stamps. The Melters prepare the bullion for coining. The Blanchers anneal, boU, and cleanse the money. The Provost provides for and fuperintends all tbe moniers. The Moniers shear and forge the money; and severally beat it broad, round it, stamp, or coin it. The process of coining, is kept a profound secret at the English mint, and the men employed are sworn not to reveal it ; but as it formes a part of every Cyclopaedia, its insertion here cannot be improper. The machine for this purpose consists of two plates of steel, each in the oblong form of a flat ruler, of about a line thick. Upon their edge is engraved the legend, half upon one plate, and half upon the other. One of these plates is motionless, and fastened with screws to a plate of copper, which is again secured to a very thick table. Sometimes little plates vvhich bear the legends are fastened in the inside of the above plates of steel, and at other times the legend is engraven upon the latter themselves; but the former seems the best way, if tbe legend is often changed. ^The other plate of steel is moveable, and is placed paral lel to the fixed oue, at a distance proper to admit the coin between them. Tho moveable plates slide upon the plate of copper, LONDON. #231 copper, to which the other is fastened, by means of a pini- ©ned. or indented iron wheel, moved by a handle; the teeth of this wheel cutting an indentation, vvhich is upon the up per saw of the sliding plate of steel, and so.moving it along. The small plates upon which the legend is most commonly. engraved, are so cut upon the inscribed edge, that, below the letters in each, and all along that side, runs a small pro- jjsction of metal, upon which the coin may I'oll jvitbout fall ing between, or touching the copper plate below. When the machine is, therefore, ready for the insertiqii of the coin, the two plates with the legend on their edges are even at the ends, and the legend runs so that the first half qf -it b^ing on the moveable one, for instancp, the other half on the fixed plate, stands exactly opposite to it. Thus the piece, before it is coined, being placed horizon tally betweefi the stciel plates, is led fin by the motion of that which is moveable, joined tp the letters- catching its edges, so that, when it has described a semicircle, both halves of the legend are entirely upon it, and it is entirely marked. When it reaches the end of the legend, and of the steel plates, it faUs oft', and drops throi^h a hole in the table, ints an appropriate receiver. The engine works by a spindle, like that of a printing prcijs. It is amazing tp sec the dexterity of the coiner ; for as fast as the men that work the engine turn the spindle, so lii.st does he supply it with metal, putting in the unstamped piece with his fore-finger and thumb, and twitching out the stamp with his middle finger. By this process twenty thou sand coins are worked by pne man in a day. At the office of the Keeper of the Records are kept all the rolls from King John to the beginning of the reign of Richard III. in fifty. six wainscot presses; those of later date to the present period, are preserved at the RoUs in Chancery Lane. The records in the Tower contain the ancient tenures of all the lands in England, with a survey of the manors; the ori ginal of all laws and statutes ; the rights of England to the dominion of the British seas ; leagues and treaties with foreign princes ; the atchievements of England in foreign wars; an- 0 0-2 tient 233 LONDON. tient grants of our kings to their subjects ; the forms of suh. mission of the Scottish kings ; writs and proceedings of the courts of common law and equity ; the settlement of Ireland as to lav\r and dominion ; privileges and immunities granted to all cities and corporations during the period before-men tioned : with many other important records, aU regularly difv posed, by the diligence of Sir William Dugdale, the late Thomas Astle, Esq. and other diligent and learned men, and properly referi'cd to in nearly a thousand folio indexes. Among these indexes are a Calendar, called the Book cf Names, alphabetically arranged, containing the names of all men, whose offices or inquisitions taken after their deaths, are to be found ; what lands they died Seized of, with the te nures ; besides many wills and testaments no v^'herc else to be found. Several calendars of escheats bundles, from Henry III. to Edward IV. The Book of Heirs, containing the names of such persons in the reign of Henry III. as held offices, declaring their heirs, &c. Several books from the reign of Edward L to Henry V. A small imperfect calendar, concerning offices or inquisi tions in Essex. Others for the counties of Lincoln, Bedford, Berks,, and Buckingham, Somerset, Dorset, Devon, and Cornwall. • A calendar and coUection out of antient roUs, called Carta Antiqua, without date. A calendar of the rolls of king John ; another of Henry HI. to the eleventh year of his reign. A calendar of grants of inheritance before Richard IIL Rolls of Edward I. during his whole reign. Two books of free warr.ens, markets, fahs, leets, &c. du ring the same reign. An old calendar of charters to cities, boroughs, cathe drals, &c. during the same reign. Calendar of parliament rdls, of attainders, restitutions, and resumptions, from 29 Henry III. to the end of his reio-n. Certain paper rolls for confirmations of charters to colleges, corporations* iONDON. 23.? corporations, and religious hbuses ; and licences of la'nds in mortmain from 1 Edward I. to the last of Edward IV, alpha betically arranged. CoUection of perfect roUs of all presentations to chutches, prebends, or chapels, whether by the king or others, from Edward I. to Edward III. Tvvo books of taxations ; one of the spiritual livings; the other of the temporalities, in England. Antient perambulations of forests. Several concerning parliament, and foreign busines.?es. Here is also preserved the Book of Common Prayer under the Great Seal. This was printed and authorised to b used in the church of England, upon the restoration o Charles II. The signatures of the several divines at that convocation are added to authenticate the book. The rolls preserved in the Tower were accompanied by those of Scotland; for Oliver CromweU, after he had beaten the Scots, seized all the public records, and lodged them here, where they were preserved till the restoration ; but being sent back by order of Charles II. to be laid up in Edinburgh castle, the ship was cast aWay near Holy Island, and those valuable. documents irrevocably lost. The Jewel Office is a dark stone room of small dimen- . sions, a few yards eastward of the grand store-house. In this place are preserved the following costly curiosities, which are shewn by candlt? light; and between the exhibitor and spectator is a strong iron railing to the top of the ceiling ag a prevention Of simUar attempts to steal the crown, &c. as vvas effected by a desperado called Blood, in the reign of Charles IL* The Imperial Crown of England. It is of gold, enriched * The result was as extraordinary as the attempt ; for, while all men thought that some new punishment would be devised to torture so daring an offender, his Majesty thought proper not only to pardon him and his accomplices, but, to grant 'Blood a pension of SOOl. a year during his life; ¦What the motives were that induced his Majesty to shew so much lenity to a man, who had engaged in so many plots and conspiracies, is yet a secret, and ever must remain so. Lyttletorh Hiji. of England. with 234 LONDON. vvith diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and pearls.-r* The cap within is of purple velvet, lined with white tafiaty, turned up with three rows of ermine. The antient imperial diadem of St. Edward, with the other antient regalia of this kingdom, were kept in the arched room in the Cldsters of "Westminster-?^bbey, till the grand rebellion, when in 1642, Harry Martin, by order of the then parliament, brpke open the iron chest in which it vvas secured, took it thence, and sold it, together with the robes, sword, and sceptre of St. Edward. After the restoration, Charies II. had that qi£^dc, "which is now shewn. The Golden Orb or Globe, put into the king's right hand before he is crowned, and borne in his left, witb tbe sceptre in his right, upon his return into Westminster-ball after he is, crowned. It is about six inches in diameter, edged with pearl, and enriched with precious stones. On the top is an amethyst of a violet colour, near an inch and a half in height, set upon a rich cross of gold, adorned with diamonds, pearls, f\nd precious stones. The whole height of the globe, cross, &c, is eleven inches. The Golden Sceptre, with its Cross, set upon a large ame thyst of great value, garnished round with table diamonds. The. handle of the sceptre is plain, but the pummel is set round with rubies, emeralds, and small diamonds. The top rises into a fleur de lis of si.K leaves, all enriched with precious stones, whence issues the mound or ball. The cross is quite covered with precious stones. The Sceptre with the Dove, perched on the top of a small Jerusalem cross, finely ornamented with table diamonds and jewels of great value. This emblem was first used bv' Edt ward the Confessor, as appears by his seal. The antient sceptre was sold with the rest. This now in the Tower vvas made after the Restoration. St. Edward's Staff, in length four feet seven inches and a half, and three inches and three quarters in circumference, all of beaten gold, carried before tbe king at his coronation. A rich Salt-cellar of state, formed like the square White Tower, exquisitely wrought. It is of gold, and used only on the king's tabic at his coronation. The LONDON. 23S The Curtanai or Sword of Mercy, the blade thirty-two inches longj and. hear two broad, without a point, is borne naked before the king at his coronation, between the two swords of justice, spiritual and temporal. A noble Silver Font, double gilt with gold, and elegantiy wrought, in which the ro3'al family are christened . A lai-ge »S';7*^r Fountain, presented to King Charles II. by the town of Plymouth, very curiously wrought. The Rich Crown of State that his majesty wears in par liament, enriched with a large emerald seven inches round ; a pearl, the finest in the world ; and a ruby of inestimable value. His royal highness the Prince of Wales's crown. These last named crowns, when his majesty goes to the Parliament House, are carried by the keeper of the Jewel-office, at tended by the warder, privately in a coach to WhitehaU^j where they are delivered to officers appointed to receive them, who, with some yeomen of the guard, carry them to the robing rooms, wbere his majesty and -the prince robe themselves. The king wears bis crown upon his head as he sits upon the throne ; but that of the prince of Wales is placed before him. As soon as the king is disrobed, the two crowns are reconducted to the Tower by the same persoa that brought them. Sueen Mary's Crown, Globe j and Sceptre, vvith the d\a- dem her majesty wore in proceeding to her coronation with her royal consort King WiUiam. An Ivory Sceptre, with a dove on the top, made for King James the Second's queen, the garniture of which is gold, and the dove on the top gold, enamelled with white. The golden Spurs and the Armillas, or bracelets for the wrists, are very antique. The Ampulla, or Eagle of Gold, finely engraved,' which holds the holy oil at the coronation. The golden Spoon, into which the archbishop pours the oil. These are pieces of great antiquity. The golden, .eagle, including the pe destal, is about nine inches high, and the wings expand about seven inches ; the whole weighs about ten ounces.- The 236 LONDON. The head of the eagle screws off about the middle of tbe neck, which is made hoUow for holding the holy cfil; and when the king is anointed, the oil is poUred into the spoon out of tbe bird's beak *. There arc in the Jewel-office, besides those commonly shewn, all the crown jewels worn by the princes and prin cesses at the coronations, and a vast variety of curious old plate. The Grand Storehouse is a noble building to the north* ward of the White Tower, and oxtends in length two hun dred and forty-five feet, in breadth sixty. It was b6gun by King James II. and by that prince built to the first floor ; but finished by King William, who erected that magnifi cent room called tlie Small Armory, in whicb he, with Queen. Mary his consort dined in great form, having all the warrant workmen and labourers to attend them, dressed in white gloves, and aprons, the usual badge of the order of Free Masonry. This noble structure is of brick and stone, and on the north side is a stately door-case, adorned vvith four columns, an entablature, and triapgular pedirnent of the Doric order. Under the pediment is sculptured in an ad mirable stile the King's Arms, with enrichments of orna mental trophy-work,; the work of the cdebiated Gibbons. The upper part of this building is appropriated for the Sma;of the train, when on a march. Two French field pieces, taken at the battle of Hoahstedt, in 1704. An iron cannon of the first invention, being bars of irons hammered together, and encompassed from top to bottom vvith iron hoops, to prevent its bursting. .It has no carriage, but was intended to be moved from place to place by means of six rings fixed to it at proper distances. A huge mortar, vVeighing upwards of six thousand weight, and throwing a shell of five hundred weight two miles : this mortar was fired so often at the siege of Namur, in the reign of William III. that the very touch-hole is melted, for want of giving it time to cool. A fine twisted brass camion, twelve feet long, made in Edward the Vlth's time,, called by the guides Qupen Eliza beth's pocket-pistol. Two brass cannon, three bores each, carrying six pounders, taken by the Duke of Marlborough at the battle of Ra- mUies, >^ A mortar that throws nine shells at a time, out of which the balloons were fired at the great firework* in 1748. A very 842 .LONDON. I A very curious ibrass cannon, finely carved, weighing fifty- two hundred weight three quarters eighteen pounds, carryLog twenty-four pounders, with Lord Ligonier's armorial bear ings, and the names of his majesty's princii>al officers of ord'iijnce. Besides those above enumerated, ther^ ara iii this store room a. vast number of brass cannon, all new, with sponges, ladles, rammers, hand-spikes, v.ad-hooks, &c. vvhich line the walls : and under tbe ceiling hang on poles upwards of four thousand harness for horses, besides mens' harness, drag-ropes, &c. This room has a passage in the middle ten feet wide, oij each side of vvhich. the artiUery are placed. In it are twenty pillars for supporting the Small Armory?, hiing round vvith implements of war ; and, be sides the ti'ophies of standards, colours, &c. taken from the enemy. The Horse Armory. Tbe spectator is here entertained with a perfect representation of the illustrious kings and he roes of our owii nation, the circumstances of whose gaUant actions have rendered them famous; they are equipped on feorseback, mostly in tbe same bright and polished armour they •were supposed to wear. Previously, however, to this exhibition, the spectator's at tention is excited by the sight of one of the most complicated machines which the ingenuity of man was ever capable of constructing. This is a perfect model of those astonishing works first erected at Derby by Sir Thomas Lombe, for mak mg organzine or thrown .silk. To accomplish this ingenious contrivance. Sir Thomas made two attempts, at the hazard' of his life, which by means of a friar he at length effected ; and liaving obtained the sanction of an act of parliament in 1742, by which fourteen thousand pounds was paid him as a reward for discovering and introducing the said machine, he finally completed it, and brought it into use. The foUowing is a brief account of its parts : It contains 26,586 wheel*, and 97,746 movements, wbich work 93,726 yards of silk thread every time the water wheel goes round, which is thrice ia one minute, and 318,504,960 yards in twenty -four hours. One LONDON. Ut One water-wheel gives motion to the rest of the wheds and movements, of which any one may be stopt separately. One fire engine conveys warm air to every part of the machinej and one regulator ofoverns the whole work. Having entered the room, the fsrst objects of attention arft a great number of iron caps and breast-plates, mostly in ustt in the German war, during the reign of George II. but tbg only one wOnt to be shewn as a curiosity, hangs upoir-a beam on the left hand of the entry ; it has had the lower edge of the left side carried away by the slant shot of a cannon ball.* A large tilting lance of Charles Brandon, duke of Sufroik, king Henry the Vlllth'-s general in France. This nobleman excelled at the then fashionable diversion of tilting; and, en gaging king Henry VIII. who was- likewise passionately fond of that royal exercise, gave the king such a , shock with his spear, that it had like to have cost him his life. Thte duke's valour had indeed been sufficiently tried in France, wheh' he attended princess Mary of England on her marriage with Louis Xll.f ' Atconi- * An old warder used to tell .the story, that the rim of the man's -belly ¦that woreit, and part of his bowels, were carried.away at the sametime ^ notwithstanding which, being put under the care of a skilful surgeon, the man recovered, and lived ten years afterwards. This story the old warder constantly told to all strangers, till his royal highness printe Frederick, father of the present king, coming to seethe curiosities ia; the Tower, and it falling to the old man's lot to attend, when he came. to this breast-plate, he repeated to h.im his. accustomed tale : the prince having listened to him with seeming pleasure, vvlien he had'doney looking at him with a smile, " and what friend," says he, " ia there sa* extraordinary in all this ? I remember mysejf to have read in a'book, of a soldier who had his head cleft in two so de.xterously by the stroke of 3 soymetar, that one half of it fell on one shoulder, and the other half of' it on the opposite shoulder : and yet, oh his comrade's clapping the twiS? sides nicely together again, and binding them close with his handker chief, the mail did well, drank his pot of ale at night, and scarcely rev collefted that ever he was hurt." This story, go seasonably apphed,- put' all the company that attended his royal highiless into a laugh, which' so' abashed the old harder, that he never had the courage to tell his story again ; 'so that the poor battered breast plate' has lain unnotified ete'^' since. ¦f On this occasion Francis de Valois, presurap.tive heir to the crowi^ 244 LONDON, A coniplete suit of tilting armour, such as the kings, na- bility, and gentlemen at arms used to exercise in on horse back ; at which diversion one of the kings of France is said to have been killed, by a shiver of a spear striking him in the eye. — Likewise the tilting lance, the rest for the tilting lance, with the grand guard, and the slits before the eye, through which they took the sight. A complete suit of armour made for king Henry VIII. when he was but 18 years of age, rough from the hammer: it is at least six feet high, and the joints in the hands, arms, and thighs, knees and feet, play like the joints of a rattle snake, and are moved, with all the facility imaginable.— The method of learning the exercise of tilting; was upon wooden horses set on castors, which by the sway of the body could be moved every way ; so that by frequent practice the rider could shift, parry, strike, unhorse, and recover, with sur prising dexterity. Some of the horses in this Armory had undoubtedly been made use of for this purpose ; and it is liut lately that the castors have been taken from thdr feet. A little suit of armour made for king Charles II. when he was prince of Wales, and about seven or eight years of age, with a piece of armour for his horse's head ; the whole wrought and inlaid with silver. Lord De Courcy. This hero, agreeably to the warder's le- gend, was grand champion in Ireland, and, as a proof, they of' France, being willing to give some notable proof of his valour, caused justs to be proclaimed; these just continued-three days, in which 305 men at arms were answered by their defendants ; of whom some were sa hurt, that they died soon after. Francis had chosen the duke and ths marquis of Dorset, two of his aids ; and, being hurt himself at firstf desired the duke and marquis to fight at barriers, who therefore took the first place against all comers. In the mean time Francis, as was thought, intending an affront to the duke, caused a German, the strongest about the court, to be armed secretly, and to present himself: they both fought valiantly ; yet the duke at last, with the Ijutt end of his spear, struck the German till he staggered ; and then the r.iil was let fall : having breathed a while, they renewed the fight ; when the duke so beat the German. about the head, that the blood gushed out at his nose and ears, and h« ..-was secretly conveyed away. shew LONDON. S4S shew the very sword he took from the champion 6f FfanCe^ for which valiant action h6 and all bis successors have the honour tq wear their hats in the king^s presence ; which pri vilege, add they, is enjoyed by the lord Kinsale, as head of that antient and noble family, at this day. It is recorded of this De Courcy, that when a conspiracy was formed against hina in Ireland by his own servants, at the instigation of Hugh de Lacy, who was jealous of his power, though he was betrayed at his devotions, he laid thirteen of the conspirators dead at his fefet before he was overpowered. He was afterwards com mitted prisoner to the Tower of London; and itis no im probable conjecture, that what is shewn is the very armour he brought with him to that prison. This nobleman lived ia the turbulent times of king John. Real coats of mail, called brigandine jackets ; consisting of small bits of steel, so artfully quilted one over another, as to resist flie point of a sword, or even, it is believed, a mus ket-ball ; yet as flexible as ordinary, clothing. An Indian suit of armour, sent as a present to Charles 11. rrom the Great Mogul: this is indeed a great curiosity;- being composed of iron quills about two inches long, findy; japanned and ranged in rows, one row slipping over another very artificially ; they are strongly bound together with silk twist, and are used in that country as a defence against darts and arrows, poisoned or otherwise. A neat littie suit of armour, in which is a carved figure representing Richard duke of York, king Edward IVth'g youngest son, who with his brother Edward V. was smothered- in the Tower by order of Richard III. The armour of John of Gaunt, duke of Lancaster, whor was the son of a king, the father of a king, and the uncle of a king, but never king himself Dugdale says, that more kings and-sovereign princes sprung from his loins^, than from any prince in Christendom. The armour here shewn is seven feet high ; and the sword and lance are of an enormous size.' The droll figure of Will Somers, who, as the warders relate, was king Henry Vlllth's jester; an honest man,< but had a handsome vvoman to his vvifcj who made him VSL. IL No, 38. Ii a cuckold; 246 LONDON. a cuckold ; and he wears his horns on his head, because they should not wear holes in his pocket. He would be lieve neither king, queen, nor any one about the court that hewas a cuckold, tiU he put on his spectacles to see, being a Uttle dim-sighted, as all cuckolds should be ; In which antic manner he is here represented. Reversing the order of their chronology, in returning up the room, the' first in the line of. kings is his late majesty, king George II. in a complete suit of armour richly gilt, sitting with a sword in his hand on a white horse, richly caparisoned, with a fine Turkey bridle, gilt with gdd, with globes, cres cents and stars, Velvet furniture laced with gold, g6ldfiringe, and gold trappings. King George I. in a complete suit of armour, sitting witb a truncheon in his hand, on a whitehorse, richly caparisoned, , having a fine Turkey bridle, gilt with gold, with a globe„ crescent and star ; velvet furniture laced witb gold, and gold trappings. King William III. dressed in the very suit of armour worn by Edwanl the Black Prince. He • is mounted on a sprrei horse, whose furniture is green velvet embroidered with sil ver, and he holds, in his right hand a flaming sword. King Charles II. dressed in the armour worn by the cham pion of England at the coronation of his late majesty. He sits with a truncheon in his hand, on a fine horse richly ca parisoned, witb crimson velvet laced with gold. King Charles I. in a rich suit of his own proper armour, gilt with gold and curiously wrought, presented to him by the city of London when he was Prince of Wales ; and the same that vvas laid on the coffin at the funeral procession of the great Duke of Marlborough ; on which occasion a coUar of SS's was added to it, with whicb it is now surrounded. , James I. of England, and Vlth of Scotland. He sits on horseback, with a truncheon in his right hand, dressed in a complete suit of figured armour. King Edward VI. Dressed in a most curious suit of steel armour, whereon are depicted, iu different compart ments, a vast variety of Scripture histories, alluding tp battles. LONDON. 247 battles, and other memorable passages. He sits ori horse back, like the rest, with a truncheon in his right hand.. King Henry VIII. in his own proper armour, of polished steel, the foliages of which are gilt, or inlaid with gold. In his right hand he bears a sword. Henry Vll. This prince holds likewise a sword in his hand, and sits, on horeback, in a complete suit of armour, finely Wrought and washed vvith silver. Edward V. in a rich suit of armour finely decorated ; he holds in his right hand a lance. King Edward IV. father to the unhappy prince above mentioned. He is here distinguished by a suit of bright armour studded ; he holds also in his right hand a drawn sword. Henry. VI. who, though crowned king of France at Paris,, lost all that kingdom, and was afterwards murdered in the Tower by Richard Duke of Glotkcester. The warlike and victorious Henry V. and his leather Henry IV. , , Edward III. represented here with a venerable grey beftrd, and in a suit of plain bright armour, witii two crowns on his sword, alluding io the tvvo kingdoms of France and England. This monarch was the first who quartered the arms of France vvith bis own ; adding the motto, Dieu et mon Droit— God^ and my Right. Edward I. in a very curious suit of gilt armour,with this pe culiarity, that the shoes thereof are of mail. He is represented with a battle-axe in his hand, perhaps to distinguish him from the rest, he being the only king in the line who had employed his arms against the Turks and Infidels, by an ex pedition to the Holy Land. WiUiam the Conqueror, in a suit of plain armour. Each of these have thdr attendant knights in full armour. Over the door of this armory is ^ target* on which are en graved, by a masterly hand, the figures of Fortune, Fortitude, and Justice ; and round the rpom, the walls are every where lined with various old uncommon pieces of armour, such as ^rigets, caps, horses heads, and breast plates of various sorts, I i 2 SPANISH 248 LONDON. SPANISH ARMOURY. ' The Relics preserved to commemorate the memorable Vic tory over the Spanish Armada, so glorious for our Coun- 4ry, together with other curious Antiques, are. The common soldiers pikes, eighteen feet long, pointed with long sharp spikes, and shod with iron, which were de signed to keep off' the horse, to facilitate the landing of tfceir foot. The Spanish officers lances, finely engraven : t}iese were formerly gilt, but the gilding is now almost worn out with cleaning *. The Spanish ranceur, made in different forms, which was intended either to kill tlie men on horseback, or pull them off their horses. On one of them is a piece of silver coin, which was intended to be made current. A singular piece of arms ; a pistol and shield, so con trived as to fire the pistol, and cover the body at the same time with the shield ; and is to be fired by a match lock ; the siiglit of the enemy being taken through a little grate in the shield, which is pistol proof. A sirtall train of ten pieces of neat small cannon, mounted on proper carriages ; a present from the foundery of Lon don to king Charles I. when a chUd, to practise tbe art. of gunnery. These, though no part of the Spanish spoils, are yet a curiosity. The banner, emblazoned with a crucifix, intended to have been carried before the Spanish general. On it is the Pope's benediction before the Spanish fleet sailed : the Pope, on sedng the fleet, blessed it, and is said to have styled it, Invincible. * There is a story current concerning these, that when Don Pedro de Valdez, passed examination before Lord Burleigh, he told his lord ship, that those fine polished lances were put on board to bleed the English with ; to which that nobleman replied jokingly, that, " if he was not mistaken, the English had performed that operation better on ^helr good friends the Spaniards, with humbler instruments. Dani^ LONDON. 249 Danish and Saxon clubs, ha.'ving lain about eight hundred and fifty years, are supposed to be the greatest mark of an tiquity exhibited iu the Tower. Engines of torture, called Spanish cravats, made of iron, and put on board to lock the feet, arms, and. heads of Eng lish heretics together. Spanish bilboes, made of iron, to yoke the English pri soners twi) and two. Spanish shot, of four sorts ; spike-shot, star-shot, chain- shot, and link-shot, all admirably contrived, as wdl for the , destruction of the masts and rigging of ships, as for sweeping the decks of their men. These, however, have been attributed to the invention of Sir Francis Drake, to be used against the Spaniards. Spanish spadas poisoned at the points, so that the slightest wound proved certain death. Spanish halberts, or spears, some whereof are curiously engraven-and inlaid with gold. The axe with which Queen Ann Bullen (mother to Queen Elizabeth) was beheaded*. At the time of her death she was not quite thirty years of age, and fell a sacrifice to tire jealousy and caprice of Henry VIII. The Earl of Essex, {Queen Elizabeth's favourite) was likewise beheaded with th^ same axe. A Spanish pole.axe, used in boarding of ships. Thumb-screws, of which there were several chests full oa board the Spanish fleet. The use they were intended for is said to have been to extort confession from the English where their money was hid, had that cruel people pre vailed. Certain it is, that after the defeat, the whole con versation of the court and country turned upon tbe disco veries made by the Spanish prisonersj of the racks, the wheels, and the whips of wire, with which they were to scourge the English. The most noted heretics were to be put to death ; those that survived were to be branded on the ¦* Stow, in his Chronicle, says, that her head was smote off at one blow with a sword, p. 572. fpra3iea4 250 LONDON.' forehead with a hot iron: and th^ whole form of govern* ment, both in chUrch and state, was to be overturned. The Spanish morning-star ; a destructive engine re sembling the figure of a star, of which many thousands were on board, all with poisoned points ; and designed to '.strike at the enemy, in case of a close attack. The Spanish general's halbert, covered with velvet. The nails of this weapon are double-gilt ; on its top is the Pope's head, curiously engraved. A Spanish battle-axe, so contrived, as to strike four holes in a man's skull at once ; it has besides a pistol in the handle with a match-lock. ¦ ' King Henry the Vlllth's walking-staff, which has three match-lock pistols in it, with coverings to keep the charges dry. With this staft', it is said, the king walked round the City, to see that the constables did their duty ; and one night, as he was walking near the Bridge-foot, the con stable stopt him to know what he did with suoh a mis chievous weapon at that time of the night,; upon which the king struck him ; but the constable caUing the watchmen to his assistance, his majesty was apprehended, and carried to the Poultry Compter, where he lay confined till morning; without fire or candle. The keeper, however, being in formed of the rank of his prisoner, dispatched a messenger to tbe constable, who came trembling vvith fear, expecting nothing less than to be hanged, drawn and quartered ; but, on the contrary, the king applauded his resolution, in doing his duty, and made him a handsome present. 'This, hew- ever, is a warder's story. A large wooden cannon, called Polic}-. The last thing .shewn of these memorable spoils is, the Spanish general's shield, not worn by, but carrietl before him as an ensign of honour. On it are depicted, in most curious workmanship, the labours of Hercules, and other expressive allegories, vvhich seem to throw a shade upon the boafted skill of modern artists. Thft date is 13"9. The inscription upon it is as follows, in Roman characters, tolerably engraven : ADVLTEEIO D£JANIRA CONSPVR^ANS OCCipiTVR CACVS AE HERCVL. LONDON. 251 HERCVL. OPPRIMITVR 1 379— aUuding to the killing of Cacus by Hercules, for the attempt on his wife Dejanira. Weapons made with scythe blades fixed on a pole, taken from the duke of Monmouth's army at the battie of Sedg- nioor, in the reign of James II. . The partizans carried at the funeral of : king WUliam III. At the upper end of the room is a great canopy, inclosed with Gothic arches and pillars, which, when drawn up, pre sents to view three very striking figures ; queen Elizabeth alighting from her horse to review her fleet at Tilbury. She is superbly dressed in the armour she had ori at the time above mentioned, -with a rich white silk petticoat, ornamented with pearls, spangles, &c. Her robe, or upper dress, is crimson sattin, laced with gold, and fringed. By her side stands a fine cream coloured horse, his bridle ornamented with gilt metal ; the saddle covered with crimson velvet, laced with gold, and fringed. At the head of the horse stands a page holding the bridle with his left hand, and the queen's helmet with a plume of Vhite feathers in his right. He is dressed in a silk snuff- coloured garment lined with blue, and a blue sUk sash fringed with gold j according to the fishion of the time. This group has a very striking effect. In this Armory are also two standards, taken at St. Eustatia by Adm. Rodney and Gen. Vaughan, in the Ameri9an war; one, the Negroes colours vvith a Moor's head in the center ; the other, the colours flying on the top of the fprt when taken. She^l and Grotto Work, performed by a lady and her daughter, are to be seen near the Bloody Tower : beautifully representing various structures in his Majesty's gardens, and other particular buildings ; such as the Turkish Mosque and Pagoda, in Kew gardens; a viqw of Lord Holland's, Kew; Woodstock Bower, fair Rosamond's retreat : a church in Northamptonshire ; Dunmow Church, where they cla,im the flitch of bacon ; a scene in the Maid of the Mill ; with various pthers, and pots of flowers of aU descriptions. The 252 LONDON. THE CHAPEL OF ST. PETER AD VINCULA. WE have aheady mentioned the chapel in the White Tower for the use of the royal family and attendants. It being ne cessary, however, that the garrison should have a place of de votion, in wbich they and the inhabitants of the surrounding precincts might more generally assemble ; in consequence, Edward III. by letters patent constituted three chaplains, with a rector to be their chief, to celebrate divine service here daily. It was exempt from episcopal cognizance, till Edward VL in 1551, subjected it to the jurisdiction of the bishop of Lon don ; which Was confirmed by letters patent of Mary I. This chapel, devoid of ornament, is in length sixty-six feet, breadth fifty-four feet, and altitude twenty-four feet. The monuments of any note are, one erected to the me- , mory of Sir Jonas More, knight and baronet, who on ac count of his fidelity and scientific acquirements, was appoint ed surveyor-general of the Ordnance, and died Aug. 27, 1679, aged sixty-two. On the N. side of the altar, a very spiacious marble monu- iHent with columns and entablement of the Corinfhiiin order, in memory of Sir Richard and Sir Michael Blount, with theii' •wives and children all kneeling. On tiie fouth fide of the chancel, a iriarble monument in memory of Sir AUan ApUey, Knight, fourteen years lieu- tenapt of the Tower, and twentj^-one victualler of the Royal Navy/who died May 24, 1630. On the north side of the church a neat black arid white. Bvarl)le monumeoit, ornamented with two cliambers of cannon instead LONDON. ^ 253 instead of columns, enriched ypith thp figiire of a ship under sail, in Basso relievo ; a cherub, cartouches, &p. with this inscription in gold on black. EreiSled in memory of Capt. Valentine Fyne, late Master Gun ner of England, second son of George Pyne of Currimallet, in the county of Somerset, Gent. Who following the footsteps of his father in loyalty and obedience to his sovereign, trail'd a pike ub- der the command of his said father, in the last expedition at Calais in the year 1625; and in the year 1627, at the expedition at the isle of Rhee. After that he betook himself to his Majesties fleet, where he served at sea till the late unhappy rebellion, and during that rebellion in his Majesties service by land ; after whose death he voluntarily followed the command of Prince Rupert for the space of 15 years, both in his expedition af sea, and in his wars in Germany, till his now Majesties happy restauration.; since which time he commanded some of his Majesties ship.s in the first waC against the Dutch ; and in recompence of his faithful services, his Majesty was pleas'd to deft him Master Gunner of England ; in which eapaciiy he departed this life, (which he led single) thelast day of April 1677, in the 28th year of his Majesties reign, aged 74 years. The most antient monument, however, is erected to the memory of Sir Richard Qholmondely, lieutenant of the Towej", in the reign of Henry VIII. ; and his lady. This chapel is remarkable for containing the ashes of the following eminent personages : John Fisher, bishop' of Rochester, beheaded on Tower- hill for his conscientious opposition to the marriage of Henry VIII. to Anne Boleyn, June 22, 1535, "which" says Bur net, " left one of the greatest blots upon this kingdom's pro ceedings." He is represented by Erasmus as " a man of in tegrity,' deep learning, sweetness of temper, and greatness of souL" "This being uncontradicted, how must the reader's humanity be agitated when he reads the cruel hardships he experienced whUst under confinement in this place 1 In a letter written by him to secretary CromweU, he thus ex presses his sufferings; "Furthermore I bpeech you to l>e a good master unto me in my necessity ; &r I have neither Vol. II. No. 38. K k shirt 254 LONDON. shirt nor suit, nor yet other cloaths that are necessary for me to wear, but that be ragged and torn too shamefully. Not withstanding, I might easily suffer that, if they would keep my body warm. But my diet also, God knows, how slen der it is at many times. And now in mine age, my stomach may not aWay but witb a few kind of meats, which if I want, I decay forthwith, and fall into coughs and diseases of my body, and cannot keep myself in health. And, as bur Lord knoweth, I have nothing left unto me for to provide any bet ter, but as my brother of his own purse layeth out for me to his great hindrance. — Wherefore, good master secretary, eftsoons, I beseech yoU to have some pity upon me, and let me have such things as are necessary for me in mine age ; and especially for my health," &c.* Secretary Cromwell, howr ever, relieved the anxieties of this great and good prelate, as much as he dared under the control of a blood thirsty and relentless tyrant. George Boleyn, Viscount Rochford, beheaded May 17, 1536. This nobleman, the brother of queen Anne, was, with Henry Norris, Mark Smeton, William Brereton, and Francis Weston, all of the privy chamber, beheaded two -days preceding his innocent sister; upon a supposed charge of incest, which none of the accused would confess, except Sineton, in hope of life and preferment ; he, however, de servedly suffered with the rest. CromweU, in his letter to the king says, " Many things have been objected, but nothing confessed ; only some circumstances have been acknowledged by Mark Smeton." This was after the final examination. Queen Anne Boleyn. After having been the faithful- wife of Henry, three years, three months and twenty-five days, her head was cut off with a sword, by the hands of an executioner from Calais, upon an accusation of the most im probable of all crimes. Her affecting letter to thbking in ber vindication, which is inserted at length in Lyttletoii's History of England, f contains so much nature, and even elegance, at the Same time un appeal to his conscience in * MSS, Cotton. \ Vol. II. p. 198, note. vindi- LONDON, 255 •»4ndicatiou of her innocence, and a firm resolution not to confess "a fault,- where nota thought thereof proceeded," that it deserves to be transmitted to posterity. "Thd greatest proof of queen Arine's innocence vvas, that the day after ber execution, Henry was married to Lady Jane Seymour. Thomas Cromwell, earl of Essex, beheaded July 24, 1540. This nobleman from a low origin, by means of in tegrity obtained the highest preferments in the state ; but having ^thwarted the inclinations of the king, was executed. by an act of attainder, which it is said he had devised for his enemies; but which'is disputed by Speed and others. > He was hated because he was an enemy to Popery ; but he was be loved for his gratitude, his Uberality and other virtues ; among his friends were bishop Fisher and Sir Thomas More, to both of whom he was beneficent whilst they were in confinement in this place. Queen Catharine Howard, beheaded February 13, 1541. This lady certainly fell an equal sacrifice to her own crimes and the ambitious views, of her family. Her father, the duke of Norfolk, had sat as judge, anql behaved with the greatest severity, in the case of his unfortunate niece, the innocent Anne Boleyn; — his own daughter passed the same ordeal, with a much moi-e. suspicious character. With her was executed the infamous lady Roch ford, who was the cause of the murder of her husband and his sister, the queen. She was condemned as the supposed assistant of queen Catharine's irregularities. Edward Seymour, duke of Somerset, lord protector in the reign of Edward VI. of whom we have already spoken under that reign, was beheaded January 24, 1,552. John Dudley, duke of N^orthumberland, father of the husband of the exceUent lady Jane Gray. Of abilities, cou rage, and enterprize ; but fraudulent; unjust, and of unre lenting ambition. He had the address to prevail vrith Edward VI. to violate the order of succession, and settle the crown on his una-mbitious daughter: this occasioned the ruin of his house ; lady Jane and her husband, lord Guildford Dudley K k 3 were S36 LONDON. ' were the passive victims to Northumberland's criminal am bition, and he suffered for his treason and rebeUion. James Scot, duke of Monmouth, son of Charles II. be headed July 15, 1685. The circumstances of his unhappy fate are mentioned in the bloody reign of James II. bis uncle, to whose revenge he was sacrificed, and need no repetition here. Besides these, ¦within the rails of the altar^ were deposited the reinains of the infamous judge Jeffries. , The Menagerie, or Collection of Wild Beasts, &c. This repository of ferocious and uncultivated nature is de posited in the south-west corner of the first entrance towards ¦ the city. After having entered the outer gate, and passed what is called the Spur-guard, the" keeper's house is distinguished by the'figures of lions over the door. The dens are ranged in the form of a half moon. They are rooms about twelVe or thirteen feet high, divided into three apartments, a large one above, and two below. Inthe upper apartment the beasts generally live in the day, and at night retire to the lower to rest. The animals are seen through la|rge iron grates, with the utmost safety ; and are thus exhibited : Miss Fanny, a Lioness, bred in the Tovver, is the most ' ferocious of the lion-tribe now in the Tower. Miss Fanny Howe, whelped on the glorious first of June, 1794, and named after the gallant admiral who gained a great victory over the French fleet on that day. An Asiatic Lion from Bussorah, in the Gulf of Persia; said to be less fierce than those of Africa. Two African Lionesses, and Tygers, a present from the Dey of Algiers to his Majesty ; brought October, 1800, by the Algerine ambassador. Of fourteen slaves sent into the desarts in pursuit of these animals, only six of them escaped with tndr hves. A Bavbary Panther, called Traveller, Four LONDON. 257 Four Hunting Tygers, sent from the Mi3nagerie of Tippoo Sultaun, at Seringapatam, a present to his Majestv from the Marquis of Wellesley ; with these animals the Sultaun was much delighted, and used them for hunting, having been trained for that purpose. Harry, a Royal Tyger, brought home in the Pitt East- Indiaman, presented to his Majesty by Sir Evan Nepean; this animal is so docile as to admit the keeper into his den : Duchess, a young Leopardess from the Malabar coast, a present to his Majesty from Lord Carlisle. Miss Peggy, a black Leopardess ; her spots are very visible though black ; and Miss Nancy, a bright spotted Leopardess; these animals were sent from Anjango, by Governor Hub» chinspn. Miss Maria and Master Bobby, a Leopard and Leopardess, from the Prince of Wales!s islands. George, a Leopard, presented to the Prince of Wales by Mr. Devaynes. An Hysena, from the Cape of Good Hope, presented to the king by David Scott, Esq. A young Wolf, from Mexico, sent in a flag of truce from Admiral Masserano, in Spain, to Adiriir-al Lord St. Vincent, and bv him presented to the king. A larsre Greenland Bear. A White Fox, from Owhyhee. Two Racoons, bred in the Tovver. A .lackall. A large Eagle of the Sun. The various Bulwarks are thus denominated : The Lions "Tower, Middle Tower, Bell Tower, Beaucbamp Tower, DweUing Tower, Flint Tower, Bowyer Tower, Martin Tower, Castie Tower, Broad Arrow Tovver, Salt Tower, Wdl Tower, Cradle Tower, Lantern Tower, St. Thomas's Tower, Hall Tower, and Bloody Tower. Of these the most remarkable are thp Bloody Tower ; ' London's lasting shame With many a foul and midnight murder fed ! Wake^. 258 LONDON. . Wakefield Tower, so called on account of its being the place of confinement for the prisoners taken at the battle of Wakefield, in the civil wars between the houses of York and Lancaster : Beauchamp Tower, noted for the imprisonment of illus- -trious personages ; hence it was that Queen Anne Boleyn wrote her celebrated letter to a pitiless tyrant. To her apartments succeeded the innocent Lady .Jane Gray, who was commiserated even by the relentless, bigotted, Mary I. and probably might not have suffered ; but the rebellion of the Dnke of Suffolk hastened her death at seventeen years of age. John Fox, lamenting her catastrophe, has these quaint, though significant lines : " What eyes thou read'st vvith, reader, know I not; Mine were not dry when I her story wrote." We might be profuse in recounting the many noble per sonages, to whom this fortress was either a palace, or a prison; we only subjoin a few of the latter: the inno cent victim o& royal jealousy. Lady ArabeUa Stuart, whose affinity to Queen Elizabeth and James I. made her au object of suspicion to both those potentates. Her misfortunes and suflFerings deprived her of her senses, in which dis tressing state she ended her life September 27, 1615, and was pompously buried in Henry VII.'s chapel, near her ill-fated sister-in-law, Mary, Queen of Scots. Henry, Earl of Northumberland, confined for the concern he bad in the Gunpowder Plot, used to amuse himself with phUosophical subjects ; his acquaintance with astronomy, and, probably, vvith judicial astrology, induced the vulgar to assert that he consulted wizards, and dealt with the devil. Henry Wriothesley, Eail of Southampton, the friend and companion of the unfortunate Robert Devereux, Earl of Es,sex, was a prisoner here during Ehzabeth's reign. A circumstance is related of his favourite cat, which, if true, excels the romantic story of Whittington's cat. This fa vourite animal surprized its master by a visit, after having 5 travelled LONDON. 259 travelled from his lordship's house in Holborn, near South-* ampton BuUdings, to the Tower; and, as tradition as serts, found its way into his lordship's apartment by means of the chimney. Mr. Pennant saw at Bulstrode, the Duke of Portland's seat in Buckinghamshire, an original picture of this nobleman, in his place of confinement, in a black dress and cloak, with the faithful animal sitting by him. It is probable, that this picture may have given rise to the tradition. Bishop Wren, uncle of Sir Chiistopher, was committed prisoner to the Tower, by the parliament, for his loyalty, which vvas then termed high treason, in company with nine other prelates, on the 31st of December 1641. This bishop continued a prisoner eighteen years, till released and re stored to his see, at the Restoration. Sir Richard Gurney, lord mayor, was committed here July 11, 1642. It would be a principal subject of our Work were we to recount the many acts of flagrant injustice and tyranny exhibited here during these melancholy times, the present list closes therefore with a culprit of different com plexion : Lord Chancellor Jeffries, the cruel instrument of despotism under James II. expired here a prisoner. Devoid of humanity when in his prosperous days, his spirits failed hini in his adversity ; he died of a broken heart, aided by in temperance. Pennant mentions a hard-hearted insult of fered to this faUen peer, during his confinement. Having received, as he thought, a present of Colchester oysters, he expressed great satisfaction at the- thought of having some friend left ; but, on taking oft' tlie top of the barrel, he was surprized by the appeirance of — an half er ! — The in sult was equally vulgar and barbarous. Warders. Henry VIII. on the death of his father, im mediately retired to the Tovver for some time for the sake of privacy, and to have leisure to form an administration. — ' Here he continued several months, and was attended by his yeomen of the guard. Fifteen of these were left in the Tower, and their name changed to that of Warders. They seem not to have been aUowed tbe same distinctions- -of 26(1 LONDON, of dress as those who attend the royal person, till the fol lowing reign. When the prptector, Duke of Somerset, was confined bere for the first time, he observed the diligent attendance of the warders ; and promised them, that, when ' set at liberty, he would procure them the favour " to weare the king's clothe as the yeomen of the guarde did-" Somerset obtained his release, and caused the warders of the Tower to be sworn extraordinary of the guarde, and to weare the same liVery they do ; which had the beginning by this means *. The government of this fortress is by a constable, vvho is usually a nobleman ; and under him by a lieutenant, and su bordinate officers. Strype concludes the account of the Tower, with the following summary : " This Tower, says he,, is a citadel to defend or com mand the city : a royal palace for assemblies and treaties ; a prison of estate for the most dangerous qffenders ; and the only place of coinage for all England f at this time ; the armoury for warlike provision ; the treasury of the oma- nients and jewels of the crown ; and the general conserver of the most (antient) records of the king's courts of justice at Westminster. . " As a fabric of antiquity, it is impossible to pass by the Tower without taking some notice of it ; being visited so much by the good people of England, as a place made ve nerable by the frequent mention of it in history ; and famous for having bepn the scene of many tragical adven tures : but I must caution those of my readers, who are un- jskUled in architecture, not to believe it a place of strength, beauty, or magnificence ; it is large and old indeed, and has a formidable row of cannon before it to fire on re joicing days." Having rested a long while in our perambulation, in de scribing the Tower, the route is pursued t© the commence- " Pennant. \ The copper coinage has however been lately transferred to the maiiufactory of Messrs. Boulton and Co. in Birmingham, by order of government. LONDON. 261 ttlent of a long and narrow street) denominated for its ap proximity Thames Streit. Here was antiently a large stone building, wdiich was ap pointed for the residence of the sovereign princes of Wales, when they came to the metropoUs, and to the court in the Tower, to do homage. ' Galley Key is so called, because the gallies from Italy, and other mercantile states, discharged there the wines, &c. which had been imported ; and it is stated in Stow, that they had halls, storehouses', and other accommodations, equally with the Hanseatic merchants at the Steel Yard ; or the merchants of Bourdeaux, at the Vintry. But the first object of peculiar attention is THE CUSTOM HOUSE, The busy concourse of all nations who import their com-, , mercial tribute to the support ofthe British realms. It appears that as early as 1385, in the reign of Richard II- John Churchman, one of the sheriffs, considering the many inconveniencies attendant upon the want of a proper place to collect the customs, erected a house in this_place for that purpose.' But at this period, and for many succeeding years, the irr^ularity of these collections was a cause of much complaint; therefore, in the year 1559, in conse quence of the increase of commercial intercourse, and the frauds detected by government, an act was passed " To compel people to land their goods in such places as were ap pointed by the commissioners of the revenue." A Custom House was fix;ed here as a very eligible situation ; but being destroyed by the great fire, another fabric was constructed in the reign of Charles II. at the expence of 10,000/. This structure having been also burnt down, vvith one hundred and twenty other houses in Thames Street, on the 13lh of January 1714-15, besides fifty persons who perished in the flames ; it was again rtsbuilt, at the expence of government, in the form in vvhich it ?it present appears. The whole building is one hundred and eighty -nine feet long, constructed in a substantial manner of brick and Vol. IL No. 38. Ll stone j 2^2 LONDON. stone ; with large warehouses underneath, and on each sidcr for the reception of goods and merchandize ; and tbe wharf next tlie river is spacious, though, considering the vast in crease of commerce, inconvenient for all the purposes of landing. - The centre standing back from the river, is twenty-seven feet in depth, terminated by de6p wings. Taken in tiie aggregate, the Custom Plouse is jddiciously and elegantly decorated with tbe various orders of archi tecture. Under the wings is a colonade of the Tuscan or der, and the upper story is ornamented with Ionic columns and pediments. It consists of two floors ; the uppermost of which is a magnificent room, fifteen feet high, running al most the full length of the building, and is distinguished by the name of the Long Room ; it is equally appropriated for the use of the commissioners, and tbe various officers of the establishment ; and is also the usual place of sale for con traband and other goods by auction *. The lesser parts of this building are disposed into of fices, &c. and are well contrived to answer tbe various pur poses of merchandize.' ¦* The sales at the Custom House, vvhen compared vvith former years, demonstrated that the quantity of sugar, coffee, and other West India commodities, seized from plunderers of every description, from being extensive in former years, was greatly reduced during the period of the operation of the preventive system, recommended by Mr. Col.? quhoun. Sugar. Coffee, Custom House sales for the year, previous lb. lb. to the establishment ofthe marine pohce 28,446 13,577 Sales for the year after the establishment of the marine police - - . . 9,370 3,716 Reduction of seizures 10,076 9,861 It is believed, that upon minute enquiry, it will turn out in point of fact, that little or no sugar or coffee was seized, in the posession of thieves, during the year ending in March 1799, and that the sales were «hiefly composed of private adventures seized in the ships, and not of plunder, as on former occasions. Treatise on River Police. LONDON. 263 In a former part of this volume some improvements are suggested vvhich would certainly be of considerable im portance in the neighbourhood of the Custom House. But we think it a duty we owe to our feUow citizens, to recom mend the structure of a New Custom House ; for after all that has been said of its present conveniencies, tiiey are in efficient to the purposes of the great currency of trade, which circulates throughout this vast metropolis; and we cannot suggest a better plan than that of Dublin, in one instance, a head without a body ; but here a matter of ab solute necessity. The Custom House of Dublin is an ele gant quadrangle, each side the length of Somerset House. The inattention ofthe citizens to Sir Christopher Wren's plan of a grand quay from the Tovver to the Temple, bas been severely felt ; it is to be hoped that future inattention will not be productive of similar inconvenience. Government OF THE Customs. The establishment of -the Board of Customs is employed, " not for the purposes of revenue alone, but also for carrying into effect the laws of navigation and trade ; upon which the security of the em pire, and the protection and encouragement of its commerce and manufactures, essentially depend. '• The commissioners therefore, under the authority of va rious acts of parliament, and also under the directions of the Treasury, exercise very extensive and important powers and functions in the general sysem, which comprises the police of the port of London. " They superintend the execution of the laws as they re late to regulations, respecting the lading and discharging of all ships and vessels frequenting the port, wbich particu larly apply to the mode of securing, and ascertaining the amount of his majesty's revenue of customs, — the payment of drawbacks and bounties on goods exported, — the grant ing licenses, and taking bonds and securities from parties concerned in the importation and exportation of goods. They authorise and appoint sufficient wharfs, where goods may be landed when the business cannot be carried on at the Jegal quays. They empower inferior officers to enter on L 1 2 board 264 LONDON. ^oard of ships and vessels, arriving and discharging, as well as those that are lading outwards,— and to remain sp long as they deem necessary for the protection of the re venue. They appoint, preferable, extra, aud glut, offi- pers, for this particular duty. They instruct and control the whole of the numerous officers, of all classes, belongjng to the different dcpEirtinents of the revenue of the customs. They exercise their discretion in mitigating the severity of the law (subject ro the control of the Treasury) in all cases where, from inadvertency or unavoidable, causes, an inno cent trader may be aggrieved, and where no injury to the revenue was contemplated. '' They order prosecutions of illicit traders and others changed with frauds upon the revenue. They direct the- sale pf seizures, and manage the financial part of the system, with respect to salaries and expences, according to rules vyhlcli have been established under the authority of par liament, and the Lords of the Treasury. In fine, they su perintend all matters and .things whatever, which relate tp vessels in the service of the customs, or to the control, re gulation, or reward of their officers, in every part of Eng land and the colonies. " The Commissioners of the Excise have a concurrent jurisdiction with the customs, vvith respect to the security of those branches of revenue which it is their province to, collect on articles imported ; but they exercise no genera^ superintendance. " They appoint and authorise their officers to board and to watch ships and vessels, where exciseablp goods compose a part of the cargo, and they also employ revenue cutter^ for the detection and prevention of iUicit trade. " The Finance Committee, of the House of Commons, (to whose labours the public are already so much indebted, and Whose reports, on a vast variety of subjects, afford ample hints and materials forthe most important legislative regulations, in matters of the highest consequence to the improvement of trade and police in this kingdom,) state that the Jaws respecting the Customs, are *' voluminous in ' ^ theit LONDON. 265 their bulk, and intricate in their details," filling, at pre sent, six large volumes in folio, unprovided with aUy printed Index. They also declare, that they feel them selves warranted in stating, most decidedly, that a consoli dation and simplification of the Laws of the Customs would greatly contribute to secure and increase the coUection of the revenue: that by such a simplification " the revenue officer would be enabled to execute his duty with more promptitude and safety ; the merchant would better know how to transact bis commercial concerns with the revenue, and the foreign trader would have the means of avoiding those errors which at present so frequently expose his pro perty to seizure for the omission of forms, which it is almost impossible that he should know to be necessary *." We have in our first volume mentioned the extent of this part of the revenue in antient times : vve therefore add here that in 1590, the Customs produced 50,000/. j9(?r )'ear. At first they had been farmed at 14,000/. and afterwards raised to 42,000/. in the person of Sir Thomas Smith. In the reign of .Tames, the whole amount of the Customa for the port of London, was 148,075/. 7.?. Srf. Previously to the commencement of the Civil Wars they amounted to 500,000/. In 1666 they were reduced to 110,000/. From 1671 to 1688, they were at a medium 555,752/. In 1700, the imports were 5,970,175/, \s. lOd. ; exports, 7,302,716/, 8s. Id. In 17S5 the official value of imports were frqm the East Indies and China, 2,703,940/. 145. \d. All other parts, 13,575,478/. Is. 5d. In 1801, 5,424,441/. 165. 4rf. AU other parts, 37,371,115/. Ss. 3d. In -1785 the official value of British produce and manu factures exported were, 1 1 ,081 ,810/.! 65. 5d. Foreign mer chandize exported, 5,035,357/. 175. lOd, In 1802,. 27,012,10.8/. 3,5. lOd. Foreign merchandize ex ported, 19,146,948/. l5:.10rf. • Fourth Report of the committee, p. 25, 26. ¦ ' ' ' In 2^6 LONDON, In HAtiP Lane was formerly the house of John Chi cheley, chamberlain of London, who was son of William Chicheley, alderman, brother to WiUiam, archdeacon of Canterbury, and -nephew to Sir Robert Chicheley, lord mayor, as well as to Henry, archbishop of Canterbury. This John Chicheley had twenty-four children, of whom Elizabeth, one of the daughters, married Sir Thomas Kiryol, and had this house as part of her portion. After passing through various descents, it was ultimately possessed by the Bakers Company, who still continue it as their haU. BAKER'S HALL is a very plain structure, the entrance to which is under a colonade of Ionic pillars ; the hall or dining room, is orna mented with a screen of the Composite order, in which are two arches with handsome carving. The north end is deco rated with three large paintings, the centre of which bearj the arms of the company ; on the right side is Justice, vvith her attributes ; the painting on the left represents St. Cle ment, the patron of the company ; they being denominated in 1380 " Fraternitas sancti Clemcntis Pistorum." This is a very antient as well as useful trade ; and the most general and extensive branch of it is that of making, as well as baking, Wheaten and Iloushold bread, though there are several others, as Biscuit baking, vvhich is chiefly to prepare ih a particular manner for long keeping what is coinmonly called sea-biscuit or bread. Baking of i^rencA bread, so called for its peculiar delicacy ; also the various sorts of the sweet as well as insipid biscuits, or bread. Baking of gingerbread, or sweet spiced bread and cakes of several kinds ; of these three last there are but few of each, not being such a general call for their produce, as for the common bread ; the bakers are numerous in London and its neighbourhood, and many of them acquire handsome for- ' tunes. Their employment being even mentioned by Moses (Gen. LpNDON. gat (Gen. XI. 2.) in all probability therefore it had its first rise- in the east, and they were a brotherhood in England before the year 1155, in the reign of king Henry II. though the white bakers were not incorporated till the year 1307, by Edward the Second, and the brown bakers not till 1621, in, king James the First's time. The stat. 51 of Henry III. was made for regulating tlie as size of bread ; and bakers, not observing the assize, were to be set in the pillory. King Henry the Fourth granted by charter, to the mayor and' commonalty of. London, the assize of bread, beer, ale, &c. victuals, and things saleable in the said city ; which is likewise granted by several other charters. By stat. 8 Ann, c. 1 8 . The assize of bread is limited, in pro.. portion to the price of wheat, and mayors, &c. may in the day time enter any shop, house, or bake-house of any baker or seller of bread, to search for, view, weigh and try, all or any of the bread there found ; and if the bread be want ing in the goodness, deficient in baking, under weight, or shall consist of any sort than what is aUowed, the same breads shall be seized and given to the poor: also a penalty of 40s. is inflicted for want of weight, &c. But by 1 of George I. c. 25. bakers are to pay 5s. for every ounce deficient in weight, and 2s. 6d. if under an ounce. By stat. 3 George II. c. 29. Bakers seUing bread, inpeckj half-peck, or quartern loaves, at a higher price than set by the Lord Mayor of London, &c. shall forfeit IO3, By an act passed in 37 George III. it is enacted, " That bakers are to leave at the Cocket Office every Monday, ac counts in writing, of all such meal and flour made of wheat as shall have been bought by them respectively in the week immediately preceding ; that at the sale or upon delivery of meal and flour, a bill of parcels thereof to be delivered therewith ; seller and buyer, in default, to forfeit 405. that the prices of meal and flour shall be fipced at the time of sale, and before delivery ; any person seUing or buying in any «thef manner, to forfeit 20/. bakers to take an oath for that purpose ; 2b3 LONDON. purpose ; penalty on any person making bread for sale with.. out taking such oath 5/. A return must be made by tbe meal weighers every Monday of the quantities, sorts, and prices of all such meal and flour made of wheat, as shall be men- , tioned in the bakers accounts for the preceding week, and the average price thereof; every buyer or seller of wheat, Uieal, or flour made of wh,eat, upon request made by the meal ¦weighers, &c. to disclose the true prices ; it is lawful for the mayor or court of aldermen, to order i)ills of parcels of meal or flour to be produced ; in case of non-comphance, the fine to be 5/. the weekly returns to be in lieu of those of 31 Oeo. II. as far as relates to wheat and flour ; the quantities to be ascertained by the Winchester bushel ; the assize of bread to be every Tuesday, either from the price of wheat or flour, and to take place on Thursday, in London and the bills of mortality, except Westminster, and Surrey • before any ad vance or reduction can be made : the meal-weighers are to leave at Baker's HaU, a copy of the last returns ; the assize according to a table reg.ulated by this act ; no six-penny, twelve- penny. Or ,eighteen-penny loaves to be sold at the same time as pecks, half-pecks, and quarterns, under a pe nalty of 20 to 405. any corn-meter, factor, baker, &c. who neglects his duty, shall forfeit 10/. ; any buyer who shall re fuse to disclose the true prices, to forfeit 10/. upon suspicion of false returns, the court may summon any person likely to give information ; persons forswearing themselves, subject to prosecution for perjury ; bakers, &c. using alum in making bread for sale, to forfeit from 5l. to 10/. or imprisonment from two to six months ; wardmote inquests may search bakers shops, &c. to wdgh and try bread, and seize such as shall be found deficient, vvhich shall be disposed of by the magistrates ; penalty on obstructing such search, from 5/. to 10/. but ^^1^ returns are not to be inspected or made known, except to such magistrates, officers, &c. as such returns are intended to be inspected or examined b}-, on penalty from 10/. to 20/." There are a number of lesser irrelevant clauses. This act took place on the first of August, . 1797. The LONDON. 269 Th6 following statement is an accurate extract ortlie price of the quartern loaf, wheaten bread,, at the commencement of the .several mayoralties herein stated, from the year 1735 to the year 1805, as entered at the -Town Clerk's Office, Guildhall. The price at the commencement of each mayoralty, shews the price at the conclusion of the preceding mayoralty. Dates. Mayoralty. ^ Nov. 9. 1735 WiUiams 1736 Thompson - 1737 Barnard 1738 Perry, - - 1739 Salter - - 1740 Parsons - ^ 1741 GodschaU - 1742 Willmott 1743 Westiey* - 1744 Marshall 1745 Hoare - - 1746 Benn : - - 1747 Ladbroke 1748 Calvert - - 1749 Pennant - - 1750 Cockayne 1751 Winterbottom 1752 Gascoyne 1753 Ironside 1754 Janssen - - 1755 BetheU - - 1756 Dickinson f - 1757 Asgill - - 1758 Glyn - - - 1759 Chitty - - 1760 Blackiston - 1761 Fludyer 1762 Beckford 1763 Bridgdi 1764 Stephenson - "^ This year the quartern loaf was at 4d. for two weeks. + In this mayoralty the bread, was at Hd. the quartern loaf. Vol. n. No. 35. Mm 179? Price of Price of Qu Wh Lo. Br. Dates. Nov. Mayoralty. 9. Qu Wh Lo. Br. .. 5| 1765 Nelson - - 7 H 1766 Kite - - . 8 - H 1767 Harley - - - 8J - H. 1768 Turner - - - 6| _ 6 1769 Beckford _ 6 _ n 1770 Crosby - - - 6i - 5f 1771 Nash - - - - n _ 4| 1772 Townshend ¦ 8 - 4i 1773 BuU - - - H _ 4| 1774 Wilkes - - 8 « 41 1775 Sawbridge - - H . H 1776 Hallifex - i. 6| _ S 1777 Esdaile - _ - f| . 6 1778 Plumbe - - - H _ H 1779 Kennett - - - H . H 1780 Lewes - - H . 6 1781 Plomer - - - 7 _ St 1782 Newnham - - 8| . 6 1783 Peckham - U _ 5 1784 Clarke - - - n ^ 5 1785 Wright. - - - 6| .. 71 1786 Sainsbury - - 6 . 7| 1787 Burnell ^ - - 61 _ 6 1788 GUI - - - . 61 ^ 5 1789 Pickett - - n • 5| 1790 Boydell - - - 7i M H 1791 Hopkins - - - 6f ,. 5i 1792 Sanderson -¦ - u . 6 1793 Le Mesurier - n - 6i 1794 Skinner - - - n 27« ¦1795 ' 17961797 17981799 1800 LONDON. CurtisJ . Watson . Anderson Glyn . Combe Staines § 121 81 9i 13 1801 Eamer 1802 -Price 1S03 Perring 1804 Perchard 1805 Shaw - ,'I0| - 10 .- 10 •• 13i -12i St. DUNSTAN IN THE EAST. THE prelate to whom this church is dedicated was born at Glastonbury, towards the beginning of the tenth cen- , tury. It is said that previously to his birth a divine pre sage foreshewed how great a light he should be in God's Church ; when in the solemn office of Candlemas Dfiy, in the diurch of the blessed Virgin in Glastonbury, all the lights, being suddenly extinguished, the taper which bis mother held in her hand was lighted from heaven,' and all .the rest borrowed their light from her. The same was also declared after his birth by a heavenly oracle ; when his pa rents carr3ing him in his childhood to that same church to + Diiring the year 1793, the quartern loaf wasls. 3d. for five weeks. § Whilst Sir 'William Staines was mayor, the quartern loaf was at its highest price, being Is. lOfd, for three weeks in March. This worthy magistrate, however, when he found that he could not reduce the price, by any other means, published the price of corn every week j. so that at the end of his mayoralty, bread vvas reduced to l&id. present L0NDON. 271 present him, as it were, to God, and passing the night there in prayer, were favoured with a vision of an angel, foretelling them the future sanctity of tlteir son, and how iUustrious that same place sbould become by his means. He made for himself a small cell, joining to the church of our Lady of Glastonbury, which Osbern, who had seen it, de clares to have been but five feet long and two and a half broad, with a small window in the door to let in the light. In this little hut, in which he could not lie at full length to take his rest, the saint spent his hours in fasting, prayer, and manual labour, and by these arms got the better of his spi ritual enemies, whoceafednot to trouble and molest him. His eminences were painting, graving, musick, and as an admirable worker in iron and brass ; He was accused to king Athelstane for a magician, and that he made his harp not oply to have motion, but make musick of jtsdf. St. Dupstan's harp fast by the wall Upon a pin did hang a, The harp itself with Ly and all Untonch'd by hand, did twang-a. And being hereupon banished the court, he returned to Glastonbury, where he made himself another cell ; and (the monks who wrote his life) as he was making some iron uten sUs, a Proteus devil appeared tp him in the shape of a wo man"; which Dunstan perceiving, plucked his tongs glowing hot out of the fire, and with them kept the devil a long time by the nose roaring and bellowing.* After Athelstan's death^ Dunstan was recaUed to court, but was by king Edmund soon reba,nished, and afterward sent out of the kingdom by king Edwy, who dying, St. Dunstan was again recaUed by king Edgar, and made bishop both of Worcester and London at once, and then archbishop of Canterbury, The monkish writers of the life of this redoubted saint assert divers instances pf his miracles, visions, and divine revelations. They also inform us, that one day as he was pelebrating mass in his church of Canterbury, a milk white * A tavern formerly exhibiting this circumstance on its sign near Tem ple-Bar, WAS profanely ci&ed, 'The Deisil Taniirn '. Mm 2 dove £72 LONDON. dove was seen hovering over his head tiU the end of the sa crifice, and then went and sat upon the pyramid that stood over the monument of St. Odo, vvhich the saint seeing, con ceived from that time so great an esteem for this his holy pre-, decessor, that he never named him without calling him Odo the Good, and always klidt down when he passed by his mo nument. St. Dunstaii\died at the age of seventy yeai-s, having been archbishop twenty -nine years.* This church is denominated in the East, to distinguish it from another of the same name in Fleet-Street ; though in antient records it is wrote juxta Turrim London. It is pf very antient foundation ; but being in a state of dec^y, it was, as Stow says, repaired and worthily beautified in the year 1633, amounting almost to a new building, for it cost upwards of 2400/. to which many worthy parishioners largely contributed. The unhappy flames of 1666, however, reduced it nearly to rubbish, and left only, the walls standing ; a lofty spire of timber vvas also consumed. The piety of Lady Williamson, of Hales Hall, in Norfolk, restored the fabric. The walls being still firm, were substantially repaired, in consequence of her benefaction ojf 4000/. The remains of the old tower were taken down and another built. in 1698, as it now ap pears. The church is situated on a declivity leading to Thames- Street, called St. Dunstan's Hill, within a large burial ground, in which are many tall and flourishing trees, which answer all the purposes of a rookery. Externally tTie structure is very plain, except the tower and steeple, which isfeuUt in the modern Gothic style, eighty- seven feet in length, sixty-three in breadth, and thirty-three in height to the roof, and contains eight fine bells, Th© steeple is one hundred and twenty-five feet high, and well constructed in the Gothic manner. The tower is light, sup ported by out-.works at the angles, and divided into three stages, terminating at tbe corners by four handsome pinnacles, in the midst of which rises the spire on the narrow crowns of four Gothic archer ; a bold attempt in architecture, and one f Britannia Sancta, &c. proof. LONDON. 21S proof, among many, of the skill of that great arcbitect Sir Christopher Wren, by whom this beautiful spire was con structed. The internal part of the church is supported by five Tuscan pillars and tvvo semi-pillars, with plain arches and key-stones ; there are double rows of windows in the mo dern Gothic stile, and a large one at the east end. The organ ia in a handsome gallery, on Corinthian square pi lasters. Tbe east end of the church is pecuharly hand some ; six Corinthian pillars, supporting an entablature, an arch, and an attic, and enriched by carving. This is sur mounted by four Composite pillars, entablatures, and cir cular pediment; the tympanum ornamented also with carved work ; the whole, with the paintings of angels, &c, forms a grand assemblage of beautiful workmanship. The pulpit is plain. Monuments. Stow enumerates the following eminent persons buried in this church : William Isaac, Draper, alderman, 1508, Sir Barthol. James, mayor, 1479*. Ralph Green way, . alderman, 1559. Tho. Bledlow, sheriff, 1472. James Bacon, sheriff, 1573. Henry Herdson, alderman, 1555. Sir WUham Hariot, lord mayor, 1481. Sir Christopher Drapei^, lord mayor, 1566 Sir WilUam Webb, lord mayor, 1591. Sir Wolstan Dixie, lord mayor, 1585f. James Bacon, alderman, 1573. John Hawkins, knight, one that feared God, was loyal tf* the queen, kind to his relations, a benefactor to Chatham hospital, the poor of Plimouth, Deptford, and to this pa rish : he died aged sixty-three $. Among * His numerous benefactions are recorded at length in Strype's Stpw, f Sir Wolstane Dixie, the friend to his country, and to mankind, is mentioned among the eminent lord mayors in this volume. There is a portrait of him in Christ's Hbspital. J Sir John Hawkins, who was one of the most renowned seamen, aii^.hravest officers in Europe, was rear admiral ofthe fleet sent out sgaiast 274 LONDON. Among the monuments now existing are the following : On the north side of the church, a handsome black and white marble monument, of tbe Corinthian order, to the memdry of Lady Williamson, the principal benefactress to wards rebuilding the church, thus inscribed : Pietati & Charitati Sacrum. Hie juxta Depositae sunt Reliquiae Richardi Hale, Armigeri, in spem bcatse Resurrectionis, qui decessit Anno Dom. 1620. Cujus e filio primogenito Gulielmq Neptis Domina Dionvsia WiLLAMSoN de Hales Hall in Comit. Norfolk pro summa pietate & Muntficentia Ecclesiam hanc incendio deletam impensisM MMM Libris Maxima ex parte rejtauravit. , Exiguum hoc honoris & gratitudinis ergo Mtrifi6 LONDON. chapter of Christ Church, Canterbury; but granted by them, (with Alhallows, Bread Street, and St. Pancras, Soper Lane) in 1365, to Simon Islip, archbishop, and his successors for ever. Among the eminent rectors are tbe foUowing : Dr. John Moreton, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury, • and car dinal of the Holy See, temp. Henry VII. Br. David Wil. Hams, master of the Rolls, ,1487. Dr. Adrian De Cas- tello, bishop of Hereford ; afterwards of Bath and Wells, and cardinal. Richard Palgrave, a Londoner ; who having spent several years in Paris, became such a proficient in the French tongue, as to be appointed tutor to Princess Mary, daughter of Henry VII. and was the first person, English or French, who reduced that language to Grammar rules. Dr. Richard Smith, the greatest pillar of the Ro man Catholic cause in his time ; he died at Doway, where he was dean, in 1563. Dr. John May, bishop of Carlisle, 159S. Hv. William Barlow, bishop of Rochester, and of Lincoln, 1613. Jiv. Johi Childerley, an eminent and fre quent preacher, and learned divine ; a great sufferer by the Rebdlion. Tbe late excellent Dr. John Jortin, rector qf Kensington, and archdeacon of London ; a considerable and excellent writer. The reverend Canham Sparke, curate, gave and distri buted many sums for benevolent purposes. We take leave of this church by relating a circumstance recorded by Stow in his Chronicle. " On Easter Day 1417, in the afternoon, at a sermon in St. Dunstan's in the East of London, a great fray happened in the church, .where, though many people were sore wounded, and one Thomas Petwarden, fishmonger, slain out of hand ; wherefore the church was suspended, and the beginners of the fray (which was the Lord Strange, and Sir John Trussell, knight, through a quarrel of their two wives) were brought to the Counter in the Pultrie : tlie archbishop of Canterbury (Cliichdey) caused them to be excommunicate, as well at Paul's Cross, as in all other parish churches of the city. The twenty-first of April, the said' archbishop sate in St. 2 Magnus, tdNDoM. i^i Magnus, ib (Snquire 6f th^ authors df that disorder, whete he foitnd the fault to be in the Lord Strange, and his \vfiffe, Wfaoj upon the first bf May fcllbvvirig, in 'Pa^Vi church, befbi'e the Archbishop, the mayor of Ldhdori, and bthelrs, submitted themselves tb pfePapCe, which wJis injoined thetn, that immediately all thieilr serVaihts Woiild iii theit shirts' g6 before the parson of St. Dunstafi's (Dr. MalVerne) and th4 loird bareheaded, with his lady barefootied, Reignbld Ken* wood, archdeacon of London, foUbvvihg them ; and at the hallowing of the church, the lady should fill a,ll the vessels with water, and also oflfer an ornament of ten pound, and the Lord Strange should offer a pyx * of five pouncl." A modern jury Would have -settled this business in a mofe summary manner^ The south side o^ "fhames Street being occupied with. Wharfs, it is necessarj' to insert a few remarks concerning thdm. We have before mentioned ttiat on account of the jfrauds in the .Custtonis the government was comf>eUedi to in terfere, and brdelf some regularity tb be observed. Thi| was equaUy the case with respect, tp the wharfs ; the conse- f" uence v^as that an act passed in the fjrst year of Ci,ueeh ;iizabeth*s reign, " That no goods should be put ashore at toy place in the kingdom, Ijut where she should ajjsign and appoint by her commissioh ;" and for the port of London^ fbe commissioners drew uj) a detitaration, " determining what particular quays, wharfs, and stairs should be for Ia(jing and discHarging of all manner oif merchandizes ; and what particular goods should be landed at Billingsgate, the Tliree Cranes, the Bridge Hqiise, anci th^ Stilyard: where Newcastle coals, bfeer, deal boards, ore, corn, i&c. fhould te laid on land: what creeks, wharfs, audi quays, from Gravesend to London Bridge, should be tio more used as lading or dischjtrging, but be utterly debarred from it for ever : and that no stranger, denizen or not, shottldi hence forth inhabit upon any of the wharfs allowed, ^cept th^ iStilyard only : and, lastly, that all keepers of virhatfs and quays should be bound to the queen in certain sums of mo- * A ew!e fiJ ^m&h tW-fe^rf. V-OL, IL No. 39. . N n- riif, 27S LONDO^. ney, that no goods .should be landed at their quays or stfiirs, or put thence upon the water to be carried .^.broad, befo.re the said goods were entered in the queen's custom books, and .to be laden in the presence of sonle searcher." These quays mostly take their names from their antient owners. One , of thesQ, formerly called Somers Key, is worthy of noti9.e,; here all. the goods belonging to the, East India Com pany are housed previous to exportation; it is therefore de nominated East India Wharf. COAL EXCHANGE. "This is a very neat and convenient structure for the use of dealers in an extensive hOme commodity ; and consists' of a very handsome front, vvith a quadrangle behind, where every branch of the poal btisiness is transacted. In our first volume, we, have stated, that tliis useful ar ticle was introduced into the city with great difficulty ;,,and •though employed in manufactures for several hundred years*, was not brought intp common use tiU the reign of Charles L and then sold for about seventeen. shUlings jJer chaldron.' During the Usurpation, the usual price vvas twenty shUlings per chaldron ;' theire w?rc three hundred and twenty keels or lighters employed at Newcastle, each bf vvhich was computed to carry annually eight huhdred'chaldron, New castle mea;sure, on boartjl the'sh ips ifor the consumption ofthe . metropolis, and other partsof the kingdom : and that one hun dred and thirty-six chaldron of that measure,, made two hun dred and seventeen of London measUre. A few years after the Restoration it appear^, that there were two hundred thou sand chaldrons consumed 'in the metropolis; in 1670 two hundred and seventy thousand ; at the Revolution upwards bf three hundred thou,sarid chaldrons; ih 176B, six hundred and fourteen thousand two hundred and forty-two chaldrons; and in the' year ISdo, the monthly supply of coals for the ihetrOpolis was estimated at three hundred cargoes of two hundred and twenty chaldrons each, or sixty-six thousand. chaldrons ; and the coal trade alone, ' which exceeds the fc* * In 1590, coals had befen raised from fovr slullings to nine shiUings per chaldron. reign LONDON. 279 reign commerce in the number of ships annually discharged, requires double the number of craft •which is found nfe'ces-' sa:ry for the whole import and export trade of the riveV. Two thousand one hundred and liinetyrsix barges, averaging; about thirty-three tons each, (amounting. in the whole to seventy-ohe thoiisand nine hundred and three tons), are chiefly employed in the coal importation. On some oc casions, above ninety colliers (each requiring on an ave rage thirteen barges) are discharged at once ; one thousand bhehtindred dnd seventy coal craft will then be laden with coals, occupying difiFerent parts pf the poolat the same time; while the phief part of the remaining craft above a!nd below bridge, are used as floating warehouses, until the coals can be disposed of to dealers. The total revenue paid for coals by the consumers in the metropolis is upwards of 3^0,0001. per annum*. ... ¦ Laws' respecting Coal Dealers. By sta:t. 16 and 17 Charles II. " AU sorts of sea coals brought into the river Thaihes and sold, shall be sold by the chaldron, containing thirty-six'biisbfels, heaped according to the bushel sealed for that ^purpose at Guildhall; and all other coals, comnionly sold by wfeight shall be sold after the proportion pf an hun dred and- twelve pounds to the hundred, avoirdupois ; upon pain of forfeiture of all coals otherwise sold or exposed tq jgale by any wobdmonger or retailer, and double, the value Per Lond. chald. * The average cost, of coals free on board at New- £.. }. d. castle, was averaged in 1800, at - - - 0 12 7 Freight to London, light money and charges taken on an average - - --- - OlOff Duty, 9j.//fr chaldron, charges of entry, 3^. /ifrchal- . dron ,- - - - , - . - -,-093 . Jgxpe^ce of delivery into Jighters, including metage,3a'. coal-heavers, Xs.^d. factor's comnaissions, ^d. per chaldron Lighterage Expence from lighters to the house ^Colqtthoun' s Thames Police, lOUse 1- Q 2 t - G 1 4 Q 4 9 Nn 2 ^.2 0., S thejreof i thereof; to be recovered by any person in apy pourt of Mftr pord, or by complaint unto the }ord m?»yPr and justipes of peace of Londqn, Pr apy tw,p qf therp, or tp the jpstices of peace of thp plapes vvhere such -poals shall be exposed to sale ; lylio are upon due proof to convict the offenders, and to giv^ warrant for levying the forfeitures ; the one half for the use of the person prosecuting, an,d the othpr half for the poor, or repairing of the highways vifithin the same, or adjoining parish ; and tl^e lord mayor and court of alder.. men, a»d the jqstices of peace pf the several counties, oj? three of thpip, one of the quorum, are to set the prices qf poals sdd by retail frqn^ time to tiuie. " If any retailor of coals shall refpse to, spll as afpresaid, th,t( lord m^ypr ^nd aldermen and justices of pe^ce respectively, are to appoint persons to enter into any place where sugl^ coals are stored ; and in case pf refusal, taking a constable^ toiforce entrance ; and the said coals to sell at such rates, ren dering to such retailer the ippney, charges deducted. " No perspp sued by virtue of tlpis act, shall be su^ upo^ ^ny other layr for the same offences ; and if any action shall l?e qpmmenced for any thing done by coloijir of this act, tha defendapt n/^fiy plead the gi^neral issue ; and if the verdict l}^ fpupd f*?!" hip3, &c. shall' havQ his, damages aiid d""*^!^ posts. " iNlq person having interest ip any wharf used for the re ceiving or uttering of cqals, or that shall tride in that ar ticle, shall act in the settipg the price.'' This act was found sq beneficial, that !*¦ >Y^s made perpetpal in the reign qf WUliam \ll. ]^n 1,2 Anne, the coal measure vvas ordered to b^ made round with an even bottom, nineteen inches and an h»lf frotn outside -to outside, apd to pontain one Winchester bushel and one quart of water ; the sack to contain three spch bpshds ; the bushd to be sealed either at the Exchequer qfgce,, or at Guildhall, London : persons diminishing it, or usi,ng it npstamped, to fprfeit 5,0/. An act of 3 Geo. IL recites, that " by antient custom in t% port of London, one chaldron of coals is allowed in to XjO^DON. ., 281 pvepy score bought on board ship, and so in proportion fpr a greater or lesaer quantity, jvhiph is called ingrain ; not, withstanding whiph many persons dealing jn <:oals, do load the same from on board ship bare measure, without th^ said ingrain, to the great injury qf the consumers ;" a pe, palty pf 100/, (recoverable in the superior courts) is imposed upon all lightermen, and others selling any qqantity of coals ^s and for poql measure (viz. such measure as is usually given or allowed in the Pool or River Thames) and not delivering to such purchaser, the full quantity of coals, together with the ingrain, as measured to hini from on board by the meter. Notwithstanding the salnt3,ry laws above recited, many speculators ii; the coal trade pursued every method of ex, tortion, to the detriment qf the fair dealer and the consumer. This induped various statutes against the wn/ajy/it/ combinat (ions of coal owners and others^ wherein it was declared Ule gal to engross coals, under the; following penalties j ^oal owners, 100/. fitters, 50/. masters of ships, clerks, agents, or servants, 20/. It was also enacted, " That every fitter, or person seUing or deUvering coals, should give to the ship., master a certificate within fqrty-^iight hours, to be regifiered in the proper offices, stating the voyage, quantity, &c. un. der a penalty of 10/. Any lighterman, &c. receiving any gratuity from owners or fitters, for preference in the quality, or in lading ships, to incur a penalty of 50/.. — this was, by 3 Geo. II. increafed to 500/. A penalty of 50/. is also imposed on all crimps, &q. selling coals to their own agents, in trust for themselves. AU bargains for coals at BUUngSgate or elscr where in the bills of mortality, must be entered, in the fac.. tor's hpok, signed by buyer and seller, and witnessed by the factor, who shall give a copy of the contract to both, undar penalty of 50/.— refusal to sign such contract,, or to produce it when required, the same penalty. One hundred pounds penalty is imposed on masters of ships refusing to give yearljR accounts to their owners, provided that nothing be contained In such directions, which shall relate to tiie restraining or enhancing the price of coals in, the river Thames, or to keep- 4ng of tiirnin delivering of coals tiierc A finthe poor ,wa- termen, or their-widov(rs, in the parishes of St> Mai^aret, and St. John the.Evangelist, Jn that city. Vol. II. No. 40. P p offence ; 294 LONDON. offence ; and if any waterman or lighternian's apprentice Tshall offend in the same manner, his master Or mistress shall on his conviction, forfeit the like sum ; or, in case of thejr refusal, the offender shall suffer such correction as the rulers of the company shall think fit and necessary. The for feitures, when paid, to be appliedto the use of the poor, aged, decayed, and maimed members ofthe company, their widows and children." All boats belonging to the company must be numbered, and entered in the company's register ; and to prevent im position, the rates of passage upon the river are regulated by the lord mayor and court of aldermen ; a list of which, framed and glazed, are hung up in the passage to the court rooms of aldermen and common council, Guildhall. Any exaction or extortion beyond the rates fixed, .subjects, the offender to a fine, br imprisonment for a stated time. The application for this purpose is to the clerk of Watermen's Hall, giving the number of the boat ; the offender will then be summoned to answer the complaint, whether for exac tion, abuse, or any pther misbehaviour; and, if convicted, properly punished. In our first volume * we gave an extract from an act, passed in the reign of Geo. II. for the preservation of the lives of persons passing on the river Thames. . We further state that by the sarae statute, it is enacted, " That every tilt boat shall be of the burthen of fifteen tons ; and that no Gravesend boats, or wherries, with close decks or bailed down, and not moveable, be navigated, rilt- boiys only excepted, on the penalty of 10/." f Any watermen or wherrymen who wilfully or negligently lose their ride from Billingsgate to Gravesend, or from thence to Billmgsgate, by putting ashore for other pas- sengers, or by Waiting or loitering by the way, so that the first passengers shall be set On shore two miles short of the ' place to which they are bound, shall not be entitled tp claim any fare of the passenger. •Page 363. t Thames Police. ."¦ The LONDON. 295- The rulers of the Watermen's Company are to appoint. two or more offieers to attend, one at Billingsgatej at every time of high water at London Bridge ; and the other at Gravesend, at the first of flood; who shall pubhcly ring a bell for fifteen minutes, to give notice to the tilt-boats and wherries to put off. And if such wherrymen, &c. do not immediately put off on ringing the said bell ; and do not ef fectually proceed on their voyage, but put on shore withire two miles of Billingsgate, or Gravesend, as the case may be j or if suoh boats are not navigated by two suflScient men, the youngest to be eighteen years old at least ; in every such case the owners of such boats shall forfeit 5/. to be levied on the boats or goods of the owners of such boats. i And if the Company bf Watermen neglect setting up the bells, and appointing proper persons to ring them, they shall forfeit sol. persons appointed to ring, the said bells, shall for feit 40/. for every neglect. ;.-; . The statute of 34 Geo. III. after reciting^ .the various pre ceding laws, repeals the statute of Philip and Mary, in flicting severe punishments on watermen for extortion, and places them more immediately under the government of the magistracy. " The court of lord mayor and alderinen are empowered to make rules and orders for the government of watermeny wherrymen, and lightermen, between Gravesend and Wind sor: and jurisdiction is given to the mayor, recorder, or any one alderman within the city, and the justices of the peace of the counties and places next adjoining to the river, to put all laws, rules, and orders, made by the said court of mayor and aldermen, or by the rulers of the Watermen's Company, and approved of by the court, , in execution against watermen and others, guilty of any offence against such laws, rules, and orders. ^ *' Such rules may be enforced by penalties and for feitures, not exceeding 3/. for any offence, and are to be approved of by one of the chief judges. A copy of them being thirty days previously sent to the Watermen's Com- Pp 2 pany. 29« LONDON. pany,' v«hO may submit objections to tb€i judges. Within thirty days after^ being allowed,' copies of the rules are to be Sent to the public offices in Middlesex and Surrey, and t© the clerics of the pe^ce of the counties and places adjoining \the river, '* Authority is also given to the lord mayor, recorder, of one alderman of London, and toanyjastiee or justices of the peaces within their respective jurisdictions, to summon offenders (within six days after any offenee is committed) and, on the refusal to appear, to apprehend them by war ranty and to punish theW by fine, not exceeding the pe nalty imjdosed for the offence ; or, in case of refusal, to pay the fine, by imprisonment not exceeding one month. *' A like authority is given to summon, apprehend, and punish persons refusing to pay watermen their fares, &c. '< Authority is also given to two of the rulers of the Wa termen's Company (as well as to the mayor, aldermen, re corder; and justices) to hear complaints between watermen and watermen, their widows, apprentices, &c. " An appeal is by this act given from the mayor, alder men, recorder, justices or rulers of the company, to the quarter sessions." Persons refusing to pay the fares of watermen, or give their names and residence, or giving fretitious names or places of abode, incur the penalty of &l. ,! The Watermen's Company was first founded in 1 556 ; and, according to the report of the Dock Committtee in the House prf Commons in 1796, they were thus estimated : Freemen - - _ 8283 Persons not free - - 2000 Apprentices - - 2000 12,283 In war about three hi^ndred appt'entices are annually ad mitted, and four hundred in time of peace. These watermen navigate three ibbusand wherries, and the chief part of the craft employed in tbe river. On St. Mary fliU is also FELLOWSHIP LONDON. 297 FELLOWSHIP' PORTERS HALL. THIS is a small bailding for the regulation of the fra ternity, from which it is named. The portera of the metropolis are divided into the fol- 'lowing brotherhoods; Companies Porters, Fellowship Porters, Ticket Porters, and Tackle Porters. The Companies Porters land and 'ship off all goods ani merchandize exported and imported to and from all paru near tbe west side of the Sound, in the Baltic, Germany, Holland, France, Spain, &c. The Fellowship Porters land, ship off, carry or house, all merehandize, as corn, salt, coals, and other commodities, measurable by dry measure. Their number is from seven hundred to one thousand ; and their chief governor the al derman of Billingsgate ward for the time being. They pay 1 2d. each for quarterage. A remarkable custom, in use among the fellowship porters, is worthy of notice : by an act of common council, it was ordered that an annual sermon should be preached before them, in the parish chUTch of St. Mary at Hill, the Sunday next after Midsummer Day ; they, therefore, on the pre ceding night, furnisht the merchants and respectable fa milies in the neighbourhood with nosegays, and in the morning proceed from their hall to church, each having a Jarge nosegay in his hand. On thdr amval at the church, they walk up the middle aisle to the altar, and every porter deposits his benevolence for the use of the poor, and to de fray the expences of the day, into two basons provided for the purpose ; and after having performed this ceremony, the deputy, merchants, with their wives, children, and servants, walk in order, from their separate pews, to perform the same solemnity. The nosegays used on this occasion are very eKpensive, and the custom is ^exy antient. The Ticket Porters land and ship off goods imported or exported to all parts of America, &c. and house all mer chants' goods, metals, &c. They ply also at various quar ters of the city, for other species of porterage, and give ample 29$ LONDON. ample secnri.ty for their fidelity and honesty; such as employ them, have only occasion to notice their names, stamped on a silver ticket, hanging at their girdles, in cases of insolence or other misbehaviour ; and upon com plaint being made to their governor, satisfaction is speedily obtained. Tackle Porters are such of the last class as are furnished- 'with weights, scales, &c. their business being to weigh such goods as come under their inspection. There are various rates taken by these different classes of porters for shipping, landing, housing, and weighing, which are regulated to prevent imposition. Any porter has the liberty of bringing goods into Lon don } but may not carry any out of the City, or from one part of it to another, unless he be a freeman, or covenanted servant ; otherwise he is liable to be arrested. ST, MARY AT HILL, THIS church is so named on account of its situation ; it is of antient date, Richard Hackney, sheriff of London, having presented to the living in 1 337 *. The * In 1497, when some labourers were digging for the foundation of a wall in this church, they found a coffin of rotten timber, containing a female LONDON. f%99 The walls of the building having \yithstood the injury of the Great Fire, the interior was rebuilt at the public charge, and finished in 1672. Within a few years also, it has been again repaired and beautified in a very judicious manner ; the old tower taken down and rebuilt, and the west front eorrespondently built of brick.. Towards the hill the front is very handsome ; it is of stone, as are all the other walls, except the west ; and the side windows were Gothic, till the piers were taken out, and the whole formed into single frames, which gives a light appearance to the church. The interior, over the middle aisle, is graced with a very light and beautiful cUpola. The roofs of the side aisles flat, supported by four columns ; at each end of the churclji are two pila;sters of a composition of Doric and Corinthiap. The whole church is well wainscotted eight foot high, with oak pews, and enriched with cherubims, festoons, &c. The altar-piece is of Norway oak, with a handsome cor nice and pediment. The length of the church is ninety^sis; feet, breadth fixty, altitude to the cieling of the roof, twenty-six feet; and to the centre of the cupda, thirty- eight feet. There are no monuments worthy peculiar attention. Stow mentions the following eminent citizens who were buried here : Richard Gosselyn, sheriff, 1422. He gave his house, cal led Stue House, in Love ,Lane, and a tenement in Foster ¦ Lane, for the support of religious foundations. John Bedham, fishmonger, who gave in 1472 several le gacies for the same purpose. ^ __ Nicholas Exton, mayor, 1387. William Cambridge, mayor, 1420. Robert Revdl, sheriff, 1490, a benefactor towards re building the church. female body, apparently uncorrupted, and the joints pliable. The body was discovered to be that of Alice, lady of the. above sherifT Hackney, who had been buried upwards of a century and an halt After expo sure for four days without any noisome smell, it began to grow putrid, and was therefore again deposited in its parent earth. 2 William SCfO LONOON- William Remington, mayor, 1500. Sir Thomas Blanke, mayor, 1582. Sir Cuthbut Buckle, mayor, 1594. Sir Robert Hampson, alderman, 1607. The organ is esteemed a very melodious instrumeht.-i. Among the incumbents there are no persons of remarkable character. Within this parish vvas a place called Sepiem Camera ; tirhich was either a house, or so many rooms or chambers belonging to a chantry, the rent of which was appropriated 'towards the maintenance of a priest to pray for tbe soul of the founder. These, with other chantry lands in the city, were sold by Edward VL for 98S/.8.f. 10(/. To the parish of St. Mary at Hill is united that of St. Andrew Hubbard, the church of which was destroyed by the fire, and the site now covered by the Weigh-house. Crossing Love Lane, through St. Botolph's Alley, we come opposite to the parish church of St. GEORGE, BOTQLPH-LANE. THE patron saint of this church was. born in Cappadocia", of Christian parents; and on account of his active .life, was made a military tribune by tbe emperor Dioclesian, who, not knowing him to be a Christian, beaped favours on hjm ; St. Geo}-ge was, -however, unhappily discovered by the.emperor «ndvhis court, onaccount of his remonstrances against tbe .'persecution which Dioclesian had projected ;.— the sovei-eign therefore urged the saint to sacrifice to idols ; but finding his persuasions tONDONi sol 'persuasions and Remonstrances vain, had recours.e to torment. St. George was placed upon a wheel, armed on every side with sharp steel points, which tore the flesh of the sufferer in a shocking manner; but in the midst of torment, assay the monkish vvriters, fie was comforted and encouraged by a voice from heaven, which spoke thus, " Fear not, George, fbr I am with thee;" and also by a person clothed in white,- vyho appearing to him, gave him his hand, embraced him, and inspired him with courage. " As the torments which St. George was put to encreased, ^sO did the patience and greatness of his courage, wherewith 'lie endured them. The joy also of the Christians vvas aug mented, and the confusion of the Gentiles, as also the fury and rage of the emperor, who knew not what course to take to daunt the blessed martyr, who remained still invincible amidst such cruel and unheard-of torments. At length he resolved to speak him fair. Therefore with a sweet and flat tering countenance he exhorted him not to be so obstinate, nor to lose his favours, promising to do great things for liim,^ and to advance him to the highest honours and preferments, if he would obey him as his father. And the saint, the more to manifest the power of God, said to him, If you ploflse, O emperor, let us go. into the temple, and see the gods» which you adore. And the emperor being overjoyed, be lieving that George was now come to himsdf and had changed his mind, commanded both senate and people to resort to the temple, to be spectators and witnesses of tbe sacrifice vvhich George was to offer. When all assembled into the temple, - and had their eyes and minds fixed upon the saint, he ap- proaehing near the statue of Apollo, and stretching forth his hand, sa!id,— Wilt thou have me offer sacrifice to thee .?— and withal made the sign of the cross. And presently the devU, that was in that idol, crieth out :— I am no God, nor is there any other God besides him, whom you do preach. Then replies the saint, — How darest thou stay hare in my presence, wiio do acknowledge and adore the true and living God ,'' And • as soon as the saint had spoken this, there was heard a most hideous screech and howling, which came from the mouth,. Vol. II. No. 40. Q q or S03 LONDON. or rather from the hollow places of the idols, and they all fell down to the ground and were broken in pieces. The priests seeing their miserable gods thus destroyed, stirred up the people, who in a mutiny laid hands upon the saintj bound him, and gave him many blows; then called upon the em peror — to dispatch that magician, and take away his life be fore they came to lose tlieir own for seeing their gods so basely affronted. The emperor moved both by thdr clamours, and by his own fierceness and impious cruelty, as also for that a multitude of gentiles, seeing their idols hurled down and broken into little bits by the powerful prayers of St. George, gave sentence that he should have his head cut off, before the mischief spread farther. " Upon being taken to the place of execution, and having loudly prayed, the martyr stretched forth his sacred neck to be severed from his shoulders by the sword, in Persia, in the city Diospolis. The martyrdom of Sti George is very famous and honourably solemnized in all the churches of the east and west; and by the Grecians he is commonly styled. The Great Martyr St. George. His martyrdom vvas not more cruel, however, than the p»ofane dispersion of his bones. St. Ger man, bishop of Paris, returning from a pilgrimage, he made to Jerusalem, brought with him an arm, which the emperor Justinian gav^e him as a most precious treasure ; and he placed it in St. Vincent's church. in Paris. His head is kept at Rome in a church built to his honour, and called from his name, being placed there by pope Zachary. The other arm of St. George was translated to Cologne. " His heart is said to have been buried in St, George's chapel, at Windsor ; being a present from the emperor Henry V. Kings in battle esteem him their particular patron and advocate , and the Roman church call upon St. George, St. Sebastian, and St. Maurice, as special protectors against the enemies of the holy faith." * We have been very minute iri our account of St. George and his asserted miracles, as being undoubtedly the patron * Ribadeneira's Lives of the Saints. saint, LONDON. saint, not only of this and other churches, but of England, and of the Order of the Garter. Recurring to more certain documents, it appears that this church formeriy belonged to tha abbot and convent of St. Saviour, Bermondsey. At the dissolution of monasteries it came to the crown, and is still in that patronage. Having been repaired at the charge of the parish in 1627 ; bnt sharing the fate of others by the conflagration, it was re built in 1674.— And this parish, with that of St. Botolph, Bil lingsgate, were united by act of parfiament. The church, though small, is extremely neat, and in tbe most chaste Grecian stile. The roof over the xentre aisle is arched, and those on the side flat. Four Ionic pillars sup port the vault of the nave and chancel, as well as the ceilings of the aisles : a rich cornice extends round the building, and terminates in the entablature of the pillars. A band, orna mented with scrolls, crosses the nave from each column, and the spaces are judiciously filled with ornamented pannels.— Several large windows, partaking more of the square than the arch, render the church light ; it is also free from damp. The altar takes up the entire east end of tlie fabric, and is ornamented witbthe usual tables of the Ten Commandments, Creed, and Lord's Prayer, paintings of Moses and Aaron, pillars in imitation of Mpis lazuli, cherubims, &c. forming altogether a stately appearance. The organ is supported by th^ only gallery in the church ; this instrument was erected in 1723, and its case is very beautiful. On the outside, the case is composed ef a grand front with a cornice and pedi ment, and enriched with appropriate ornaments. The tower is surmounted by four vases, and the whole building is con structed of stone, There are no monuments of any note ; but in the south side of tbe chancel, in a large pew, is a high piece of iron scroll work, embellished vvith the arms of xVilliam Beckford, Esq. who was alderman of this ward, and the arms p|' Eng land, thecity, sword and mace, &c. thus inscribed: " Sacred to the memory of that real patriot tbe Right Ho nourable Wilham Beckford, twice lord mayor of London, Q q 2 vvhpse 3Qi LONDON. whose incessant spirited efforts to serve his country hastened his dissolution, on the 21st of June, 1770, in the time of his mayoralty, and sixty-second of his age." The church of St. Botolph, Billingsgate, stood opposite Botolph Lane in Thames Street, and was said by Stow to have existed from the time of Edward the Confessor. After it vvas burnt, the site of the chancel was rented by Sir Josiah Child, ^or .100/. per year, in 1693, and he formed out of it the passage to Botolph's Wharf. A large house occupies the spot where the body of the church stood. Having been given to the canons of St. Paul's catliedral by Ordgar, in the 12th century, it has contiuued in their possession, and they now jointly present with the king to the united living. We mention this church more particularly on account of its having contained the remains'of an excellent citizen, JoHif Rainwell, mayor, 1426, with the following epitaph : f Citizens of London, call tq Remembrance ' The famous John Rainwell, some time your Mayor, Of the Staple of Calice so was his chance. Here lyes now his Corps ; his Soul bright and fair Is taken to Heav'n's bliss, thereof is no Despair. His Acts bear witness, by matters of Accord, How charitable he was, and of what Record : No man hath been so beneficial as he Upto the City in giving liberally." — Sjc. " He gave a stone house to be a vestry to that church fo| ever. " He gave lands and tenements to the use of the common alty, that the mayor and chamberlain should satify, to the discharge of all persons inhabiting within the Wards of Bik lingsgate, Dowgate, and Aldgate, as oft as it should happen that any fifteenth was to be granted to the king by parliament. " Also to the Exchequer in discharge of the sheriffs ten pounds yearly, which the slieriffs used to pay for the farm of Southwark , i that all men of the realm coming or passing vvith carriage, should be free quitted and discharged of all toll and other payments aforetime claimed by the sheriffs. 2 f Farther, "XONDON, 305 *' Farther, that the mayor and chamberlain sliall pay yearly to the sheriffs, eight pounds ; so that the sheriffs take no man ner of toll or money of ,an y person of this realm, for their goods, merchandize, victuals and carriages for thdr passa^-es at the great gate of the bridge of the city, nor at the bridga called the Draw-bridge, &c. " The overplus of money coming of the said lands and te nements divided into even portions ; the one part to be em ployed to restore the graineries of the city with wheat, for the rdief of the poor commonalty, a,nd thp other moiety to <;lear and clean.se the shelves and other stoppages of the river Thames, &c."* In the church of St. George, were interred ; Adam Bamme, mayor, 1 397. Hugh Spencer, Efq. in 1424. Wiiliam Combes, Fishmonger, one of the sheriffs in 1452, *vho gave forty pounds towards the Works of that church. John Stockcr, draper, one of the sheriffs, 1 477. Richard Dryland, Esq, steward of the houshold to duke Humphrey (of Gloucester). Nicholas Patrick, one of the sheriffs, 1519. William Forman, mayor, 1.538. James Mountford, Esq. surgeon to king Henry the Eiglith, buried 1544, St. Botolph's Wharf is of very antient date ; it wa^ held by the crown in the reign of Edward I. that monarch granted it to Richard de Kingston, upon yielding a silver penny at the feast of the nativity pf St. John the Baptist, for all services, &c. In Stow's time, 1598, the parish of St. Botolph. and its neighbourhood were inhabited by foreigners ; and the honest historian makes great complaint on account of their refusing their proportion towards the relief of the poor : "In Billings gate Ward," says he, " were one hundred and fifty houses of strangers, whereof thirty of these housholds inhabited in the parish of St. Botolph, in tbe chief and principal houses, * Vol. I. p. 94., Vol. II. p. 22i where 3ff6 LONDON. wbere they pay 20/. a year, for a bouse lately let for four marks.* "The nearer they dwell to the water side, the,more they give for houses, and within thirty years before, there were not in the whole ward above three Netherlanders, at which time there was within the said parish levied, for the help of the poor, 27/. a year ; but since they come so plentifully thither, there cannot be gathered above 11/. For the stran gers will aot contribute to such charges as other citizens do." This, however, must be observed, that though the strangers did not contribute to the poor's rate, they excited such a spirit of industry by their example, and found such employ ment for the lower classes, as rendered such a rate in that neighbourhood almost unnecessary. Botolph Lane, formerly had a great houfe and offices, in the possession of John Swygo, which had been held as chan try f Jand, at a yearly rent of 13/. 6s. Sd. At the dissolu tion of chantries, in the reign of Edward VI. the whole was sold for 168/. 135. 4rf. to Henry earl of Arundel, vvho made it his residence. * Two pounds thirteen shiUings and four-pence. ¦}• A chantry was usually a small chapel, or particular altar in ca thedral or parish churches, endowed with lands or revenues, for the maintenance of a priest, to pray for the souls of the founder and his friends. The principal use and intent of chantries was, for prayers for souls departed, on a supposition of purgatory, and of being released thence by satisfactory masses. Prayers for such souls was the gener^ i.T(iatter of all obits, anniversaries, &c. which were but various modes of praying for souls departed. Chantries might be founded by licence from the king, whhout the ordinary ; the latter not having it in his power toi interfere. S'T. LONDON. Sj07 ST. MAGNtJS, LONDON BRIDGE. THE saint to whom this church is dedicated, fuffered martyrdom at CsEsarea, in Cappadocia, A. D. 276, during the reign of the emperor Aurelian. Alexander, the Roman governor of tbe province, after exposing the martyr twice to be consumed in the Jiames of a furnace, aad thrice to be devoured by wild beasts, because he would not sacrifice to idols, at last commanded him to be stoned to death ; and when the spectators thought he was dead, he suddenly called out from under the heap — so say the legend? — and prayed that the Lord would take his soul in peace *. The name of this church in antient records has the addition at the foot of London Bridge. It was formerly in the patron age of the abbots and convents of Westminster and Bermond sey, who alternately presented to the living, which, at the Dissolution, wsts transferred to the bishop of London and his., successors, with whom it still continues. * Ifetwourt's Rel/iertorium,. In tO% LONDON. , In 1302, Hugh Pourt, one of the sheriff;, and Mafj garct, his wile, founded here a perpetual chantry. Iri 1623, 24, and 25, the church anderwcnt repairs to the amount of 500/. and upwards; and, in 1629, it was again beautifully repaired and ornamented, at the charge of the parish ; but, in 1633, a dreadful fire destroyed a third part, of the parish, which so decreased the tythes, that three years afterwards, from 10'9/. they were reduced to SSL The general conflagration of the city, reduced the. church to ashes. In 1676, the present handsome structure was erected^ though the steeple was not finished till 1705. The fabric is substantially built with stone ; tbe corners have rustic quoins, and the body was ornamented with tall arched windows, which have lately been filled up on the nMfth side, so as to appear circles. The roof is hid bj' a kind of attic course, from which the tower rises square and plain, whence a dial projects over the street ; the course above this is adorned at the corners with coupled pilasters of the Ionic order, supporting an open work in place of a ba lustrade, witii large urns at the corners. Hence rises the beautiful lantern, ornamented vvith Ionic pilasters, and arched vvindows in the intercolumniations : on these pi lasters rests the dome, the crown of vvhich is surmounted by another elegant piece of open work, as a balustrade; from tbe dome rises a spiral turret, which supports the fane. This steeple has a ring of ten good bells. Within, the church is very highly though chastely -deco rated; being enriched with a'rched work, and handsomely pewed and wainscoted. Here is a good organ. By means of some recent repairs, the roof of this church has been much 'improved ; the whole structure is elegant, wjthout appearing gaudy ; and has all the requisites proper for a place of serious worship. This church was built on the present footway, and ab ruptly projected into the street: it contmued in this state till the fire in 1759, the church bdng damaged, ' and great part qf the ndghbouxkocd consumed. When the confusioa. LONDON. 309 confusion had subsided, and the inhabitants began to' re build, an improvement was suggested to form a foot path ; to this the projecting steeple seemed" an insurmountable ob stacle, and the parish, if possible, did not wish to desti-by such a beautiful specimen of architecture. A surveyor, however, was employed, and he had the ingenuity to dis cover that Sir Christopher Wren, conceiving that such a convenience must at a future period be rendered necessary, had contrived the arch, on which the steeple stood', of such strength, that it required only to clear away the interme diate part of the building to render the improvement ef fectual. This being done, St. Magnus's steeple and its porcli exhibit another instance, of the vast abilities of the great re storer of Eondon. In the old church were buried John Blund, mayor, 1307. * Henry Yeuell, freemason to Edward IIL Richard II. and Henry IV. 1400. Henry, his son, who founded a chantry here in 1400. Richard Winter, stockfishmonger, who, in 1407, gave a ' shop in this' parish to tbe rector aiW church warddis for his anniversary, and to lay out 20s.-^The remainder to be given to poor housekeepers. John Mitchel, mayor, 1436. John French, baker, yeoman of the crown to Henry VU.. 1.510. ¦ Richard Turke, one of the sheriffs,, 1549. Sir Richard Morgan, knt. phief justice of the Common Pleas, 1556. Dr. Maurice Griflith, bishop of Rochester, 1559. John Couper, fishmonger, aldernian, nominated'for mayor* 1584. Sir William Garrard, m^yor, 1555. Robert Harding, salter, sheriff, 1658. Sir John Gerrard,. and, dame Jane hjs wife ; he had been lord mayor in 1601. The modern monuments are of no peculiar considera tion. There was a famous guild, dedicated to Our Lady de V«L. n. No. 40. R r Sah& 310 LONDON. Salve Regina, in the church of St. Magnus; an account of which was brought in to the king upon an act of parha ment, in the reign of Edward III. when some particular in quisition was taken concerning the guilds of fraternities throughout England: The ~ fdlowing is a translation of the certificate, extracted from the Tower records:—" 17 Ed ward. Be it remembered, thatRauf Chapdyn, du Bailliff, William Double, fishmonger ; Roger Lower, chancdlor ; Henry Bo.seworth, vintener ; Stephen Lucas, stockfish- monger ; and other of the better of the parish of St. Mag nus, near the bridge of London, of their great devotion, and to the honour of God, and his glorious Mother Our Lady Mary, the Virgin, began and caused to be made a chantry, to sing an anthem of Our Lady, called Salve Regina, every evening : and thereupon ordained five burn- ing wax lights at the time of the said anthem, in the ho nour and reverence of the five principal joys of Our Lady iiforesaid ; And for exciting the people to devotion at such an hour, the more to merit to their souls. And thereupon many other good people of the same parish, seeing the great honesty of the said service artd devotion, proffered to be aiders and partners t'6 support the said lights and the said anthem to be continually sung ; paying to every person every week an halfpenny. And so that hereafter, with the gift that the people shall give to the sustentation of the said light and anthem, there shall be to find a chaplain singing in the said church for all the benefactors of the said hght and anthem. And aifter the said Rauf Chapdyn, by his testa ment, devised 3.?. by quit rent, issuing opt of one tenement in the parish of St. Leonard, Eastcheap." To this parish is united that of St. Margaret, New Fish Street, which was destroyed by the fire in 1666. Among the rectors of St. Magnus were the following emi nent persons; Maurice Griffith, bishop of Rochester, 1554. John Young, bishop of Rochester, 1557. Among those of ,St. Margaret, occurs Samuel Harsnett, afterwards arch bishop of York. LONDON LONDON. 311 LONDON BRIDGE. Our limits forbidding us to enter into the remote history of this bridge, we content ourselves by stating from Wil,; liam of Malmsbury, that A. D. 994, .Sweyn, king of Den mark, in his attack upon London, vvas so valiantly opposed by Ethdred II. and the citizens, that many of the Danish army were, drowned in the river, because in their rage they took no heed of the bridge. In 1 1 22, Thomas Arden gave to the monks of Bermond sey, and the church of St. George, Southwark, 5,?. rent, out of the lands pertaining to London Bridge. , "VVe have before mentioned tiiat the bridge of stone was first begun by Peter of Colechurch, in 1176, westwardly of the timber bridge, which had stood opposite to Botolph'sr Wharf in the reign of Wiiliam }. and was thirty-three years before it was finished. In the night of the 10th of July, 1213, a great fire brpke out in Southwark, and the flames catching St. Mary Overy's, church, were spread, by a strong southerly wind, to th^ north end of the bridge, which taking fire, prevented th© return of the, mpltitude, who had run from London to ex tinguish the fire in Southwark ; and while the crowd wer^ endeavouring to force a passage back to the city through the flames, at the north end of the bridge, the fire broke, out at the south end also ; by means of which the people were so enclosed between the two fires, that, notwithstand ing all assistance that could be given, upwards of three thousand people perished, either by being burnt to death, or drowned in the river. King John gave several void pieces of ground in the city for building, the profits and rents of which were appropriated towards the reparation of this bridge ; and during the same reign, the master mason, built the large chapel on the centre at his own expence ; which chapel was then endowed for two priests, four clerks, &c. besides chantries, since founded for John Hatfield, and others. In the reign of Henry VI. it maintained four chaplains. This was the first Stmcture erected on the bridge; and after it was finished, R r 2 other pl$ LONDON. other buildings were added, and ultimately a street with posterns was formed, wbich continued till the latter end of tbe reign of tJeorge I. Towards the maintenance of these structures several wdl disposed persons contributed ; and their donatipns were registered in the chapel, and remained there till it was converted to a dwelling bouse. Henry III. in 1269, glanted tiie custody of tbe bridge, with its Hberties, to his queen, for the term of «ix years. This was the lady whom we have mentioned before, for de priving the prior of the Holy Trinity of St. Catharine's hospital. The bridge, after its first construction, became ruinous in less than seventy years ; the consequence was the licence of Edward I. to collect the godly aids of devout people throughout the kingdom ; and the laying customs and du ties on goods either carried over the bridge, or brought by water carriage. The city not approving of the custody of thdr bridge to continue in the queen, the ward jurats in an inquisition taken by the judges itinerant at the Tower, presented, *' That the custody of the bridge, and the soke thereof, was in the queen's hands ; they knew not by what warrant, when the soke thereof antiently was in the hands of the king's mother, from the time of the battle of Evesham, to that time *." It was several times presented, the rents and revenues being very considerable ; but the queen monopolized the whole, and she substituted keeprs under her, as had been formerly done by the city. These keepers proved complete engines of oppression ; they exacted considerable personal gains, at the same time that they suffered the repairs to be neglected, and the bridge to be decayed. The citizens often complained ; but no attention was paid to their remon strances. * This was the fortunate tattle in vvhich Henry III. oyerthew Simoo de Mont fort, .Earl of Leicester, and his adherents. The city ha^ ua- fortuuately sided with tKe insurgents; and, therefore, among otijer pu nishments, vvas deprived of the privileges of its bridge. In LONDON. SU In 12^9, the structure vrasao shamefully ^out of repair, as to render the passage dangerous ; a subsidy was granted by patent from Ed w. II. towards its restoration. In 1381, whilst Sir John Britain was custos of the city, in the reign of Richard IL a vast collection was made of al). archbishops, bishops, and otiier ecclesiastical persons, to wards the repairs of London Bridge. A tournament was hdd here, on St. Gem'ge's Day, 1395, betwixt the Earl of Crawford, of Scotland; and Lord Vt^ells, of England : in the third onset of which Lord Well* was borne out of the saddle. The tower on the north end of the drawbridge, was erected in 1426, during the mayoralty of Sir John Rein*- well, which served to repel the bastard Falconbridge, in his general assault on the city in 1741, with a set of banditti, pndcr pretence of rescuing the unfortunate Henry VI. then confined in the Tower; sixty houses were burnt on the bridge on the occasion. It also served to check, and. in the end, annihilate, the ill-conducted insurrection of Sir Thomas Wyatt, in the reign of Queen Mary. The top of this tovver, in the sad and turbulent days of this kingdom, used to be shambles of human flesh, and covered with heads or quarters of unfortunate partizans. Even so late as 1598, Hentzner, the German traveller, with German accuracy,, counted on it above thirty heads. The old map of the city, \n 1597, represents them in a most horrible cluster. The state of the bridge in the beginning of 1632, is thus recorded by Burton : " This bridge, with a chapel on the east side, and a gate on the south end, being built all of stone, and houses of timber over the stone piers, and arches on both sides thereof; yet there were, and still are, in the whole length of the bridge, three vacancies with stone walls and iron gratps over them, on either side oppo-? site to each other; through which grates, people as they pass over the bridge, may take a view of the river, both east and west ; and also may go aside more to each side, out of the way of carts and coachps, the passage being but nar-, row, and not only troublesome, but dangerous. These ^ tihr^ Slf LONDOl^. three vacancies are over three of the I'niddle arches, for all tbe piers are not of a like thickness, uor stand at equal dis tance one from the other ; for tbose under these three va cancies are much wider than tiie rest, and are called the Na vigable Locks, because vessds of considerable burden may pass through them. One of the.sc is near unto the gate,' and is called the Rock Lock. The second is under tbe second vacancy, where the drawbridge antientlyvvas, and is called the Drawbridge Lock. And the third is near tbe chapel, and is called St. Mary's Lock. There is a fourth, between St. Magnus's church and the first vacancy, and is called the King's Lock ; for that the king in his passage through bridge in his barge, goes through this lock." '' Tlie dreadful fire which happened on the 13th of Fe bruary, in this year, and of which we have made some mention, under St. Magnus's church, broke out between eleven and twelve at night in the house of Mr. Briggs, a peedle maker, at the north end ; and it was occasioned by the carde-ssness of a female servant, by setting a tub of hot sea-coal ashes under the stairs. The fire consumed, before eight the next morning, all the buildings from the end to the first vacancy, including forty-two houses. The Thames was frozen over, and owing to the consequent scarcity of water, the fire continued burning in the vaults and cellars upwards of a week. From this period till 1646, the bridge was in a desdatp state ; deal boards were set up on each side, to prevent passengers falling into the Thames; many of these, by high winds, were often blown down, and the passage was very dangerous by night, although there were lanthorns and candles bung upon all the cross beams which held the boards together. In 1646, the buildings were re-constructed, in, what was then termed, a very substantial and beautiful manner of timber. The houses were three stories high, besides the cellars, which were within and between the piers. Over the bouses were stately platforms, surrounded with railing, with walks, gardens, and arbours, and other embellish ments, necessary for enlivening the prospect up and dowrt tbe river, and over the adjacent coutitryj The LONDON. - 315 ^i; south side did not partake of these conv-enient addi tions, but appeared a heterogeneous mass of awkward struc tures and narrOw passages, the street at tliis end being not above fourteen, and in some places twelve feet broad, whilst that at the other side was twenty feet wide. , The year 1666, however, again desolated the north end, whilst the old buildings erected in the reign of king John, again escaped destruction ; after having continued four hun.' dred and ninety years. The fall of the buildings on the north end, and the vio lence of this fire, Jiad so battered and weakened the, stone work, that the Repair of the arches and piers before they could again be rendered strong enough to support the houses about to be rebuilt, amounted to an expence, of above 1500/. which was paid out of the rents of the bridge. The reparation of the stone work having been finished, leases for sixty years were taken of a certain number, of feet on both sides the street, to build on, at 10s. per foot; by such means the north end vvas rebuilt in the spac% of five years ; the houses being four stories high, and the street of its acfcustomed breadth of twenty feet. This being so quickly and completely accomplished, an expedient was suggested to make the south end answerable both in appearance and convenience ; but as the leases vvert*. undeterminable on account of their various dates, a balance was contrived, by which all persons niight have equal right; and the lord mayor, aldermen, and commons, vvho com posed the Bridge House committee, with the assistance of Mr. Odde, clerk comptroller, were appointed to compro mise differences. The means used were as follovy : First, they caused to be measured how many feet every proprietor had in front of his house. Secondly, what rent he paid annually to the JBridge House. Thirdly, what number of years of his lease were unexpired- The next rank were of those whose leases were unexpired. These they purchased at a valuable con- fcideration of the tenants, who were not able to build. And, for such as, had longer time, they, in consideration thereof, ¦ "added 316 LONDON. added a competent time to what they had to come of "ir old lea'ses, with an abatement of rent, answerable to what the house or houses would cojt rebuilding, which vvas to be in the same form of building as the north end ; the* city being at the charges of repairing and making good the stone; work, fit for the new buildings : these reparations cost the city an additional sum of 1000/. .The south vvas theii finished answerable to the other end; and- thus it continued till 1756. It vvas at length discovered that,, besides its great incon venience, this street had become a losing concOrrf; mea sures were therefore taken to improve the bridge ; the sti'e'et estate being in such a bad condition, that it must be taken down } and' beside, that the city in building ten houses, had not received any other remuneration thah 2 per cent, fot tiidr money. Many obstacles were started against the proposed^ im provement, and when these were obviated by pailiainent, a temporary bridge, vvhich had been constructed whilst these? impro-vements were going on, was wholly consumed'' by firfr ' on the Uth of April 1759"*. Nothing could equal the'vigi- l&nceof the magistrates on this occasion, and the diligence of the workmen to restore the communication between the' City and the Bbrough, which vvas, in a manner, cut off by' thisaccident; and indeed the old bridge was passable in sO •short a space of time, as did honour to the undertaker'. Till the passage could be effected, the lord mayor licensed' forty boats more than were allowed by the statute, to ply on Sundays, for the convenience of ferrying passengers.f. * Mr. Pennant well remembered the street on London Bridge, nar row, darksome, and dangerous to passengers, from the multitude.of carr riages : frequent arches of strong timber crossed the street, from the- tops of the- houses, to keep them together, . and from falling into the river. Nothing but use could preserve the rest ofthe inmate^, who" soon grew deaf to the noise of the falling waters, the clamours of water men, or the frequent shrieks of drowning wretches. Most'of'th'*' houses v/ere tenanted by pin or needle-makers ; and oeconoraical ladies; were wont to drive from the St. James's end of the tovyn to make chea^ jjpjchases.' t Gent, Mag. xxviii. 192. Having jf _¦ * imr '*^-''t' "^ t &i^''''7r .-, ^ '/4^i ,»¦ ' Vast-"' ¦'11 'i! *» 't^rifE r--*if (ll , I'l ¦h IliV'I'i''''' riN'ii ''"' I'll io"r; ,1 s s LONDON sH Having been dismembered of its nuisances, London Bridge at present affords a conclusive proof of national im provement ; and when an inhabitant of London reflects on the absurd idea of a street upon a bridge, without won dering that his ancestors should, for ages, voluntarily ob struct their oiily cpmmunication from shore to shore ? What must have been the thfonged passage for carriages, horses, and pedestrians, saved flcom a space of forty feet, incum bered by buildings, and the weight pressing upon the piers aud arches ! Although the revenues of the structure were consider able, the demands for constant repairs Were more so; and the embarrassments arising from this circumstance, added to those attending the diffieulties and dangers, occasioned by & vast increase of pbpulation and trade, rendered repeated applications to the legislature necessary *. London Bridge forms one grand street across the river, having on each side a broad foot pavement, and a massy stone balustrade, at once affording safety to the passenger, and extensive Tiews of the river and country. These are supported by nineteen strong arches ; but on account of the heavy fall of water, occasioned in a great degree by the broad Sterlings, and the contracted space of free water way, many accidents have happened, and the obstruction to the navigation of the river has been considerable. Such cogent reasons have induced the interference of the city and th« legislature ; several plans have been Suggested for the re moval of the present bridge, and building another. The present sttucture is nine hundred and fifteen feet lotigj and fOrty-five broad; but the widest arches, except the centre, are only twenty ,feet wide. Two of those arehes, on the London side; and one on the Southwark side^ are filled by the maehinery of the: wAtfeR Works. Having in our first volume f given an account of the in vention of this great undertaking, and its hiftory, to the year * M&IcbM's tondtnliiM RicGvivum. t P. 150. Vol. il No. 41. S s ilOl, 318 LONDON. 1701, when the proprietors were formed into a company, as they at present continue, vve shall in this place describe tbe properties of these .wonderful pieces of machinery, in the language of the late learned Dr. Desaguliers: " The wheels placed under the arches are moved by the common stream of the tide-water of the river Thames. The axle-tree of the water wheel is nineteen feet long, and three. feet diameter ; in which are four sets of arms, eight in eaOh place, whereon are fixed four rings on sets of felloes, twenty feet in diameter, and twenty-six floats, fourteen inches lopg, and eighteen inches deep. ' ' The wheel lies, with its two gudgeons or center pins, upon two brasses, fixed on two great levers, whoie fulcrum or top, is an arched piece of timber, the levers being made circular on their lower sides to an arch, and kept in their places by two arching studs, fixed with a sock through two moitifes in Sie lever. " By these levers the wbegj is thus made to rise and fall with the tide : the levers are sixteen feet long, that is, from the fulcrum to the gudgeon of the water wheel six feet, and thence to the arch ten feet. To the bottom of this arch is fixed a strong triple chain, made like a watch chain, but the links, are arched to a circle of one foot diameter, having Batches or teeth to take hold of the leaves of a pinion of cast iron, ten inches diameter, with eight teeth in it, moving on an axis. The other loose end of this chain has a large weight kanging at it, to help tp counterpoise the wheel, and to pre serve the chain from sliding on the pinion. On the same axis is fixed a cog-wheel, six feet in diameter, with forty- eight cogs; to this is applied a trundle or pinion of six rounds or teeth ; and upon the sam^axis is fixed another cog-wheel of fifty-one cogs, into which a trundle of six rounds works, •n whose axis is a winch or windlass, by which one man with the two windlasses, raises or lets down the wheel, as there is occasion, - " By means of this machine, the strength of an ordinary man vvill raise about fifty tons wdght. But, besides these levers and wheels, there is, a cog-wheel eight feet diameter, fixed LONDON. 519 fixed near the end of the great axis, and working into a trun dle, of four feet and a half diameter, and twenty rounds; whose axis or spindle is of cast iron, four inches diameter, and lying in brass at each end : a Quadruple crank of cast iron, six inches square, each of the necks being turned one foot from the center, which is fixed irt brass at each end, in two head-stocks fastened doWn by caps. The end of one of these cranks is placed closei abutting to the end of the axle-tree last mentioned, and fixed thereunto by an iron wedge drove through a slit in them both for that purpose. The four necks of tbe crank have each an iron spear or rod fixed at their upper ends to the respective lever, within three feet of the end ; vvhich levers are tvventy -four feet long, mov ing on centers in a frame, at the epd of which are jointed four rods, with their forcing-plugs, working into four iron cylinders, cast four feet three quarters long; seven inches- bore above,, and nine belovv, where the valves lie, fastened by screwed flanches over the four holes of a hollow trunk of cast iron, having four valves^in it, just at the joining-on at the bottom of the barrels or cylinders, and at one end a sucking pipe or grate, going into the water, which supplies all the four cylinders alternately. "From the lower part of these cylinders come out necks, turning upwards arch-wise, whose upper parts are cast vvith flanches to screw up to a trunk ; which necks have bores of seven inches diameter, and holes in the trunk above, com- ' municating with each of them ; at which joining are placed' four valves. This trunk is cast with four bosses, or protu berances, standing out against the valves, to give room for their opening and shutting ; and,,on the upper side are four holes stopped with plugs, which take out, on occasion, tor cleanse the valves. One end of the trunk is stopped by a plug ; and iron pipes are joined by flanches to the other end, through which the water is forced up to any height or place required. " Besides these four forcers, there are four more placed at the other ends of the levers, which work in the same manner, ^ith rods and Cylinders, as above. And the same works are S 2 repeated 320 LONDON. repeated aft the pth^r end of the wateNwheel, viz. a cog* ^hpel, a trundle, a spindle, a crank, sucking-pipes, fouy levers, eight forcing-rods, eight cylinders, &c. four trunks, and two forcing-pipes : sp that one single wheel works sixteen pumps. " In (fhe first arch next the city, is one wheel with double work of sijiteen fbrcor?. Ip the third arch, where the first wheel has douWe work at the one end, and single at the other, there axe twelve forcers i the second w^heel, placed in the middle, has eight forcears ; and the third whopl sixteen forcers. Jn all fifty -two forcers, <' Onp turn of the fonr \ybeels makes one hundred and fourteen strokes; and when the river is at best, the wheels go six times round in a minute, and but four and a half at middle water ; so that the number of strokes in a minute are six hundred and eighty-fpur ; and as the stroke is two feet and a half in a seven inch bore, which raises three ale gal- ¦Iprts, they raise two thou.^apd and fifty-two gallons in ami- UUte ; th^t is, one hundred and twenty-three thousand ope hundred and tvventy gallons, or one thousand nine hundred ^nd fifty-four Jjogsheaxls in an hour, which is at the rate of forty-six thousand eight hundred and ninety-six hogsheads pgr day, to tb,e height of one hundred and twenty feet, in- <;luding the waste, which ntiay be gett|ed at a fifth part c^ the whole." Returning from the bridge, the most striking obj^qt is THE MONUMENT. This is a noble fluted column, erected by order of parUs' a^ment, in commemoration of the burning 4n,d rebuilding ot tho city, aftpr its destruction by fire in the faital year 1666. Itwaa dpiigned by Sir ChrigtopVls Wreg, and is of th» Doric Ordef; its altitp.de is two hundred and two feet fsom the gronnd, the greatest diameter of th.e,-skaft (or body) of the column is fifteen feet, the ground bounded by the plinth or lowest part of the pedestai tvxenty-eight fept square, and the pedestal is in altitpd^- forty feet, all of Portland stone,; within is a large staij.-<:ase of bl*gk raajfble, containing three hundred 'Fish StmiEJBT Hiili.. LQNPON. sn faundr^d 9.nd forty. five steps, ten inches and an half broad, aud sixanch risers, and a balcony within thirty-two feet of the very top, which is terminated by a curious and spacious gilded flams. In this gallei-y persons are admitted, at a small price, to gratify themselves with a very extensive prospect. On the north side is a Latin inscription 5 in English thus ; In the Year of Gfirfst 166S, the 2d day of Sept. Eastward from hence, at the distance of 202 Foot (the height of this column) abpyt ^idnight a most terrible Fire broke out, which, driven on by » higb Wind, not only wasted the ai^acent Parts, but also Places vety remote, With incredible Noise and Fury : It consumed 89 Churches, the City Gates, Guild-hall, many PubUck .Structures, Hospitals, Schools, Librartss, a vast number of stately Edifices, 13200 Dwel ling Houses, 400 Streets; of 26 Wards, it utterly destroyed 15, and left 8 others shattered and hsjif burnt; the Ruips of the City- were 436 Acres, from the Tower by th^ Thames side, to the Tem ple Church, and from the N E. Gale along the City Wall to Hoi, bourn bridge: To the Estates and Fortunes of the Ciliaiens itwa.>j ' merciless, but to their Livfes very favourable; thgt it might in all things resemble the last Conflagration of the World, The Destruction was sudden ; for in a small space of time, the same City was seen most flourishing and reduced to nothing. Three Days after, when this fatal Fire had baffled all Human Counsels and Endeavours in the Opinion qf all, as it were by the Will of Heaven it stop'd, and on every side was extinguish'd. On the south side is also another inscription in Latin ; Eng lished thus : Charles IL Son of Charles the Martyr, King of great Britain and Ireland, Defender of the Faith, a most gracious Prince, commisera ting the deplorable State of thing-s, while the Ruins were yet smoak ing, provided for the Comfort of his Citizens and Ornament of his City, remitted their Taxes, and referred the Petitions of the Ma gistrates and Inhabitants to the Parliament, who immediately pass, ed an Act, That Publick Works should be restored to a greater Beauty with Publick Money, lo be raised by an Imposition oa Coals; That Churches, and the Cathedral of St. Paul's should be rtbmltfrom tbeir Foundation with ^11 Magnificence ; That Bridges, Gates. and Prisons should be new made 5 the shores cleansed, the Slree)^. 323 LONDON. iStreets niade straight and regular; such as were steep, levell'd! and those too narrow, made wider ; and Markets and Shambles re moved to separate Places. They also enacted. That every House should be built with Party Walls, and all in Front raised of equal height, and those Walls all of squared Stone or Brick; and that no man should delay building beyond the space of seven years. More over, care was taken by law to prevent law suits about their bounds. Anniversary Prayers were also enjoined ; and to perpetuate the Memory thereof to Posterity, they caused this Column to be erect ed. The Wo(k was carried on with diligence, and London is re stored, but it is uncertain, whether with greater Speed or Beauty ! A three years time finished what was supposed to be the Business of an Age. Onihe east side is another inscription ; thus Euglisli'd : This was begun. Sir Richard Ford, Kt. being Lord Mayor of liPndpn, in the Year 1671. Carried on Jy Sir Geo. Waterman, Kt. ^ Sir Robert Hanson, Kt. f Sir Will. Hooker, Kt. VLord Mayors. Sir Robert Viner, Kt. I Sir Joseph Sheldon, Kt. J And finished. Sir Thomas Davies, Kt. being Lord Mayor, in th^ Year 1677. On the front or West side of the Die of the Pedestal of this noble column, is finely carved, a curious emblem of this tragical scene ; the eleven principal figures done in Relievo, the rest in Basso Relievo, viz. At the North end of the plane is represented in Basso Re' lievo, the city in flames, and the inhabitants in a consterna-f tion, with their arms extended upward, and crying out for succour. A little, nearer the horizon are the arms, cap of maintenance, and other ensigns of the city's grandem*, partly buried under the ruins. On the ruins lies the figure of a woman with a civic crown, her breasts pregnant, and in her hand a sword; denoting the strong, plentiful, and well governed city of London in distress. The sovereign (king Charies II.) is represented standing . pn an Arabathrum, or place ascended to by (three) steps, in allomii* LONDON. 323 a Roman habit, providing with his power and prudent di rections (as is expressed by the inscription on the south side) for the comfort of his citizens, and ornament of his city. On the steps, stand in the king's presence, the figures of three women, that next his majesty representing Libert\', having in her right hand a hat, whereon, is, the word Li hertas, denoting the freedom or liberty given to those that engaged three years in the work. Another of the women is Ichnographia, with rule and Oompasses in one hand (the instruments whereby plans and designs are delineated in due proportion) and a scroll partly unrolled 'in the other band, whereon such designs are to bo drawn ; and near this is a bee-hive, the known emblem of industry. 'The third figure, represents Imagination, holding the emblem of invention, and having on her head wings, and small children (as being swift and fruitful), and on tlie border of her garment these words, Non Aliunde; all which shew, that the speedy re-erection of the City, is prin cipally owing to liberty, imagination, contrivance, art, and industry. And, to encourage the citizens, the figure of Time is em ployed in elevating the woman in distress; and Providence with his winged hand, containing an eye, promising Peace and Plenty, by pointing towards those two figures appearing above the clouds. Behind the king are the implements of building, scaffolds ing, labourers carrying materials, &c. to rebuild the new city. Partly within a camerated cell, under the sovereign's feet, appeareth Envy, diabolically enraged at the measures con certed, and the g;reat prospect of suecess. He is endea vouring to renew the disaster, by blowing flames out of his mouth towards the distressed city. On the same plane-, southward from the king, is a lion with one fore foot tied up and curbed by the left hand of Fortitude, in whose right hand is a sword ; under tljese figures appears the muzzle of a cannon, denoting the deplorable loss and misfortune of S war. 32t LONDON. war. Between that and the king, is the figure of Mafs, with a chaplet in hrs hand, an emblem, that an approaching honourable peace would be the consequence of the war. And above this, round the cornice of the pedestal, are noble enrichments of trophy work and the royal arms ; also the sword, mace, cap of maintenance, &c. and at each angle a very spacious and fierce dragon, exquisitely carved in stone, by the ingenious statuary, Cibber, father of Colley Qbber, the comedian. Round the base of the pedestal, near the reglets, are int scribed the following words, which w&ve expunged in the time of James II. and very deeply re-inscribed in the reign of Wifiiam III. This Pillar was set up in perpetual Remembrance of that most dreadful burning of this Protestant City, begun and carried on by the Treachery and Malice of the Popish Paction, in the beginning cf September, in the Year of our Lord 1666, in order fo the car rying on their horrid Plot for extirpating the Protestant ReUgion and. Old English Liberty, and the introducing Popery and Sla very. *' This monument," says the author of The Review of Public BuUdings, " is undoubtedly the noblest modern co lumn in the world ; nay, in some respects, it may justly viO with those Celebrated ones of antiquity, which are conse crated to the names of Trajan and Antonine. Nothing can be more bold and surprizing, nothing more beautiful and harmonious : the bas relief at the base, allowing for some few defects, is finely imagined, and as well executed ; artd nothing material can be cavilled with but the inscriptions round about it." These, however. Sir Christopher Wren had prepared in a more elegant and masculine stile, as ap pears by the Parentalia ; but he was over-ruled. The beautiful column we have been describing, standi 'Upon the site of the church of St. Margaret, N£\V Fish Street, which had been destroyed by the fire. Th# church .yard is preserved for the use of the parishioners, a few doors towards Little Eastcheap. Turning LONDON. 325' ' Turning into this street, the firfet object of attention is PtJDDiNo Lane. It was here that the Fireof London began ; of which we have given a copious account, and its conse quences, in our former voltime*. On the house built over the spot where this calamity began was placed, by autho rity, the following inscription : Here, by the permission of Heaven, Hell broke loose upon this Protestant City, from the malicious hands of barbarous Papists, by the hand of their agent HUBERT : who confessed, and, on the ruins of this place, declared his Fact for which he was hanged, viz. •' That here began the dreadful Fire, which is described, and per petuated, on and by the neighbouring Pillar erected Anno 168 — in the Mayoralty of Sir Patience Ward, Knt." This Hubert was proved to be deranged in his senses ; and suff'ered more from the terror of the times, than the verity o£ his confession. The inhabitants having been incommoded by the multi tudes who resorted to view the house and inscription, the latter has been removed. f In this lane is BUTCHER'S HALL, whicb is a very neat place for the use of that company. The fraternity seems to have been of very antient date ; they were fined by Henry II. in 1180, as an adulterine guild, for being set up without the king's licence^ though they were not incorporated till the year 1605. This com pany consists of a master, five wardens, twenty-one as sistants, and two hundred and fourteen liverymen. In the former part of this work, we have mentioned se veral laws respecting oflal, &c. in the streets; but the most particular is the law enacted by Itatute 4 Henry VII. cap. 3. which declares that " No butcher shall kill any flesh within his scalding house, or within the walls of ]l.ondon ; on pain to forfeit for every ox so killed, 12^. and for every other • Page 22K f Pudding Lane was antiently called Rother Lane, or Red Rose lane, from a sign of the Rose ; but received its present name, because formerly the butchers of Eastcheap had here their scalding house for hog* ; whetice the puddings, and other filth from slaughtered cattl», were voided to the durig -boats in the Thames. Vol, II. No, 41. T t beast, 9i$ LONDON. beaft, 8^.. to. lie divided between.th^kipg and i the; prose cutor." The many nuisances of this kind, at present . subsisting within the, walls, ojf the city, are so shaipefuli that, even on the S^-bbatb, some pf its streets in the neighbourhood ofthe several markets are totally obstructed by means of car cases exposed, andthe channels, are running on other days, impregnated with the ^Ith from slaughter-houses » wWJst, the noisome smells are obnpxiops to the passengers, who. are compelled to pass on their several avocations. In Eastcheap was. the,chnrch of St. Leonard, which hav ing been burnt, its site was converted to a burial ground, and the parish united to ihat of St. Benedict, Gracechurch Street.; At thp corner of Lo^veLane is situated THE king's WEIGHHOUSE, on the ground formerly occupied by the parish church of St, Andrew Hubbard,' united to the parish of St. Mary at HiU. The institution of this house was laudable, to prevent frauds in the weight, of merchandize, and agreeably to the chartered right of tronage granted to the city of London by several kings. It was intended to weigh all merchandizes, brought from beyond seas, by the king's beam : it is go verned by a master; and. under, him four master porters, and labouring porters under them ; who used to have carts and horses, to fetch the goods from the, merchants ware houses to the beam, and to carry them back.,. The housQ belongs to the Grpcer's Company, who have the appointment of the several porters, &c. thereunto belonging. But this wise institution of our forefathers, has nearly fallen, to dei cay: for the merchants, either to save .the .charge and trouble, or not being obliged to weigh thejr goods here by ' any compulsive power, have brought almost into disuse tte weighing of their goods at the king's beam. There. was a more antient structure for this^ purpose, which we described in our account of St. Peter, Cornhill. ' Over the Weigh House a large room is occupied by * yctj respectable Dissenting congregation. London. '331 ST. MARGARET PATTENS, ROOD LANE. ST. MARtJA'flET wa& born at Aritioch ; and Olybrius, president of the East, being enamoured of her beauty, would have married her, had he not discovered that she was atJliristian. He strove to recal her to Heathen opinions, and finding he could not prevaij, his regard turned to ha tred, he inflicted a multiplicity of torments Oh. the virgin, Aniong others, he caused her to be stretched on the ground, where she was whipped in such an unmerciful manner,. that .streams of blood issued from the wounds. This had.no ef fect on her constancy; therefore tlie inhuman tyrant cona- nianded that her flesh should be torn by iron hooks, and great nails driven into her body. " A cruelty so strange and so unnatural," says ftibadeneira, " that even he that had the heart to command it, wanted the courage to see it executed : for he was forced the whole time to cover his eyes. After these sharp combats she was led back into prison ; where, whilst the saint was pr,aying with great fervour of spirit to our Lord, to enable her, and give her perseverance lo fhe end, the room was suddenly shaken; and there appeared before her Satan, in the most frightful and horrible shape of a dragon, hissing, and ca:rrying death T t 3 -in 328 LONDON. in his looks ; and besides that with his intolerable stench he was like to poison her, he rushed furiously upon her, to devour ber. But she with an assured confidence opposed the sign of the holy cross, and saw the dragon immediately burst in the middle." . She was martyred about tbe year 300, during the reign of the emperor Dioclesian. The anecdotes of these sub-saints may be true, and Father Ri- badeneira, may hav'e believed them ; but in this, as well as in other parts of this history and description, we do not take upon us to vouch Tor their veracity. This church had the additional name of Pattens, as Stow says, from pattens being sold in the neighbourhood ; and the lane in which it is situated obtained the name of Rood Lane, on account of a rood placed in the church-yard, whilst the old church was taken down and rebuilt ; during which time, the oblations made to the rood were employed towards the building; but, on the 23d of May 1538, the idol and the tabernacle in which it was contained were broken to pieces, by some upknown reformers. $t. Margaret's chprch appears to have been of antient foun dation, for it is recorded that the patronage was in the family of Nevill, and afterwards confirmed to Sir Richard Wbit^ tington, who bestowed it on the mayor and corporation of London, jointly with Leadenhall and St. Peter, Cornhill, as 'wB have fully stated, and this living still continues in their presentation. Here were several chantries founded for the family of Atvynes, at the altar of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Having been involved in the general destruction of 1 666, it was rebuilt in its present elegant style, and the parish of St. Gabriel Fenchurch, annexed to the living. The walls of the west end are of stone, ornamented with arched windows, and a handsome arched door. The steeple is a beautiful specimen of Doric architecture, and the spire forms a striking object from various parts of the city, on account of its lofty and light appearance, The other walls are brick, covered with stucco. With LONDON. 323 With respect to the interior, the roof is flat, supported by arches, ornamented with fret work. On the north side is a neat gallery ; the altar is of carved wainscot, of the Corinthian order, and the whole church is embellished with pilasters, entablatures, &c. and a good organ. < Here are memorials to the family of Vandeput, which came from Antwerp : Giles, the progenitor of this family, died in 1646, aged seventy. Among the rectors was the late Dr. Birch, author of a Bio graphy, which goes under his name, as well as several other excellent works. This gentleman was also one of the secre taries to the Royal Society. Nearly adjoining this church, in Little Tower Street, was a capital house, built by Alderman Dune, in the sixteenth century ; it was afterwards possessed by Sir John Champ- neis, lord mayor in 1534, who built in this house a high tower of brick, " the first," says Stow, " that ever I heard of in any private man's house, to overlook his neighbours in this city. But this delight of his eye was punished with blindness some years before his deatb. Since that time, Sir Percivall Hart, a jollt/ cOurtier, and knight harbinger toi Queen Elizabeth, inhabited here." At the commencement of Tower Street stood, in 1449, the house of a rich citizen, named Griste. This gentleman ' for his safety, having entertained the rebel Cade, and amply feasted his followers ; in return for his hospitality, his house was ransacked, and robbed of every thing portable by his ungrateful guests. Mincing Lane, or more properly Minchun Lane, was so distinguished from several tenements belonging to the Minchuns, or Nuns of St. Helen, Bishopsgate Street. Here formerly resided several foreigners from Genoa, who, on account of their bringing wines in gallics, were called Galley^men, and the wharf on which the merchandize was landed was denominated Galley Key. These persons in troduced a base silver coin, which were halfpence in their own country, but in England they were noticed as Galley halfpence. These halfpence Were so obnoxious in their cir culation 330 ILONDON. culation, that the^overnment, in tlie thirteenth yiedr of the reign of Henry IV. and the fourth of Henry V. foi^ade them to be taken as pajrment ; and the parliament futther enacted, that " if any '.person bring into this realm Galley halfpence^ suskins, or dodkins, he should be punished as & rthief; and he that taketh or payeth such money, shall lose one hundred shillings, whereof the king shall have one half j and he that will sue, the other half." Though this law was so severe, the coin found a contra band circulation, till at last the strength and weight of the EnglLsh halfpenny banished them utterly from the kingdom. In this lane are very good specimens of the stile of building, which was used by Sir Christopher Wren, to ob lige tbe more substantial citizens ; some of these with massy ^oriiamented windows, over large gates, enclose the dwelling 'bouses of such rich merchants as could at the same time en tertain tbeir friends, and pot neglect their own concerns. These structures are worthy of notice. The next avenue in Tower Street iS Mark Lane. This was formerly called Mart Lane, on account of a market held there. On the east side of this handsome, though narrow street, is THE CORN EXCHANGE. Before this building was erected, iiie market for corn had been held at Bear Key ; but the inconveniencies attendant upon tbe resort so near the river in all seasons, and other equally just causes, induced the construction of this build ing, which is spacious and convenient for the purposes in tended. It is ascended from the street by three steps, which lead to a range of ejght lofty Doric columns, those at the cor* ners being coupled ; between the pillars are iron rails, and three iron gates. These columns, with two otbei-s on the inside, support a plain building two stories high, which contains two cofl'ee houses, to which there are ascents fey a flight of handsome stone st^s on each hand, underneath the LONDON. 3;5i <^e edi^ce, \^(ithintbSi>i'.9n gates is a quadrangle, paved wUbubrpad' flat stones i; this square-, is: surrounded by.a co- !ona one housg to another. She brought her husband an immense fortune, and may be supposed to have lived in as much splendour as any person in her tirae, Sff Wchols's Canon bury House. usedj ETTK.03P'EA]V>lA.«iA.ZIWE . : v/// ///,'/.. /////// //^//v/yy. U,'/M/- , //(7 ui///v/, / ,J,/'/ /' t ^yiiJ/P/ &^J'Se. LONDON. 33« *fted, and which must at that time have been a great stretctj of improvement. »Still, however, they had not attained to such a degree of perfection, /as to make the site of their apartments either level, or upright ; and this defect was en deavoured to be obviated by a post, suspended from the roof of the apartment, which falling perpendicularly, left a considerable space between it and the bottom of the wall : this is evident, from several passages in Shakspeare, par ticularly in his making Hamlet kill Polonius behind the arras, where he had hid himself; and as that, author abounds in local and temporal allusions, we may suppose it was the practice at that time, even in the houses of the nobility. Se veral houses, erected about the time of Edward IV. and Henry VII. have reniained till within a few years ; and among them, one at the north end of the Lower Street Islington, formerly belonging to Sir Thomas Lovell ; after wards, as supposed, to one of the sons of Dudley, duke of Northumberland; and, lastly, used for the parish work house. Another stood at the north east corner of New ington Green, and has been lately pulled down :, they usually consisted of three sides, sometimes of four, with an entrance by a square aperture in the front, into the quadrangle. The Four Swans, at Waltham Cross, is a good spepimen of this style ; it is the manor house of the manor of Theobalds,, and was formerly the residence of a na_ tural son of Henry VIII. whom he created Earl of Rich mond ; and to which earldom that manor had been an ap pendage from the time of the Conqueror *. The White Hart tavern, in Bishopsgate Street, although much mo dernized, is another house of this description ; indeed they are only to be met with at the east or north end of tlie * Cheshunt manor and house were also in the possession of John de^ Drux, Earl of Richmond, a distant relation of Queen Eteanor, wife of Ed'ivard 1. This may account for the hearse stopping there j and as it was no doubt attended by the abbot and monks of 'Waltham, this, together with its vicinity to the town of Waltham, may account for Its taking that name, though in a different parish and couRty. See Mtme. town. 34K) LONDON. town, and were probably the residence of the principal courtiers about the time of Richard III. and Henry VII. The last mentioned house bears the date of 1 480. About this period, however,, or a little earlier, domestic architec ture appears to have made great and rapid improvement by the restoration of the art of making bricks ; which there is reason to suppose had been neglected from the time the Romans quitted this country : some few brick, or brick and stone buildings, indeed might have arisen after that period, but they appear to have been constructed out of the ruins of others ; as the abbey of St. 7\lban, for in stance, out of the ruins of Verulam. These bricks are distinguishable from modern ones, by being of larger di mensions, as may be seen in London Wall ; perhaps now the only Roman vestige in the metropolis. Henry the Seventh built the palace of Sheene, of brick ; and we know that Wolsey built his house at Esher, and tbe palace of Hampton Court, of the same materials ; and the latter re mains a magnificent monument of the perfection to which the art of disposing and using bricks had at that time ar rived*. Canonbury House, andthe walls belonging toit, are undoubtedly of the same period. Still, however, build ing with brick seems to have been confined tp houses of the first magnitude only : the protector, Somerset, is known to have demolished churches for his house in the Strand ; per haps for want of other materials. .Queen Elizabeth in habited a house composed of lath and p]aster,in Crass Street, Islington ; whilst her lord treasurer is said to have occupied the' bouse now known by the sign of the Queen's Head, in the Lower Street, of the same village : the last mentioned house a:fFords a just specimen of the prevailing mode of building towards the close of the sixteenth century-. Stories prQJectiiTg over each other, as they ascended, and win dows advancing still further, and occupying almost the •* The Rye House, near Hoddesdon, in Hertfordsliire, seems to have been built soon after this period ; and the twisted chimney is an instance ef ingenuity which would puzzle a modern bricklayer, whole LONDON. 341 \vhole front of the house *. The fronts likewise became highly ornamental about this period, being frequently de corated with medallions, or subjects from history, in has relief, as might have been seen some few years since against a public house at the end of St. John's Lane f; and an other house the corner of Duck Lane, West Smithfield : on the latter v/as the story of Wat Tyler. Some houses, now remaining in Leadenliall Street, are hkewise of this descrip tion and period ; and this we suppose to have been the pre vailing mode, for the most substantial and opulent citi zens, as well as for many of the nobility and courtiers : persons of an inferior description lived in houses composed of wood, built after the same fashion with projecting stories; these, so far as relates to the City, were almost wholly consumed in the great fire,' but many still remain in the courts and alleys about Bishopsgate Street, Norton Fall- gate, and Shoreditch : the more secluded parts in parti cular of the Borough pf Southwark, and even in the High Street; as well as in the more antient part of the city of Westminster, in the neighbourhood of the Abbey and Tothill Street. Great indeed was the next improvement which the me- tropolis experienced in the construction of its domestic edi fices, and from the mind and hand of no less a master than Inigo Jones ; who designed the new buildings at Covent Garden, in a style of simple grandeur hitherto unknown in this country : he hkewise disposed the area of Lincoln's Inn Fields ; and if we may judge from similitude, the buildings which form the west side of that square, and the south side of Great Queen Street, are by the hand of the same artist ; or of some one who studied under him : it is miich to be re gretted that more was not done on the same plan. After the Fire of London, brick buildings only were al lowed to be erected, and those were formed in the high streets, on a very handsome plan; tbe elevations having a sufficiency of ornament to give them variety, and even a due poportiop of grandeur, without heaviness or incum brance. Various instances of this may still be seen in the * Grey's Long Story. t Pennant. Vol. II. No. 43. X x Clty^ 342 LONDON. City, particularly in Gracechurch Street, Cornhill, Cheap- side, &c. ; the design was probably from the hand of Sir Christopher Wren. This mode of building continued with little variation for nearly a century ; that is, till within the last forty or fifty years ; since which time it has been al most an invariable rule to exclude all ornament whatever from the fronts of our houses. This practice may have its advantages, by affording no projections to collect the dust and dirt, which necessarily arise in a great city; but in point of elegance, it is certainly inferior to the former mode. If any one doubt this, let him compare a few of the bouses on the west side of Hatton Street, near to Hol born, which have lately been repaired and stuccoed, and by which means the general form and style have become conspicuous, with GoWer Street, or almost any other of our new buildings ; and the superiority of the former, as to de sign, 'will be immediately conspicuous, by its relieving the eye from that monotonous and never varying line novp so much in vogue. The new street, which leads from Blooms bury Square to Russell Square, is an instance of this ; the roofs, and even the chimnies, are concealed, and the pa rapet forms a line on each side, as disgusting to the eye, and as devoid of true taste, as the shorn box hedge on the sides of a gravel walk in a Dutch garden. The adoption of the parapet must however be allowed to be a most valuable improvement, not only as it affords a convenient mode of conveying the rain water from the roofs, but as it has been the means of rendering useless, and of course of expunging the large wooden cornice running under the roof ; the fatal effects of which were frequently experienced in the com munication of fire from one edifice to another. Having thus,' in a succinct manner, afforded to our rea ders a clue by which, in a great degree, may be ascer tained the various dates of antient architecture ; we proceed to state why the house in Hart Street, could not have been any residence of Sir Richard Wbittington ; and this we prove from the following undoubted authority : In a curious document possessed by the worshipful Com pany of Mercers, called Ordinances' of Sir Whitting ton's LONDON. 343 Ton's Charities, made by his executors John Coventre, John Carpenter, and William Grove, is this passage re lating to the foundation of his college, in the parish of St. Michael Royal, now called College Hill. " We have founded also, after the wille abovesaid, a house of almes for xiii pouere folk successively for ever more, to dwell in and to be sustained in the same house : which house is situated and edified upon a certain soyl, that we bought therfore, late in the parish of Seinte Mighel abovesaid ; that is to say, bytweene the foresaid church and the wall, that closetb in the voyd place, behind the heigh auter of the same church, in the south side, and one great tenement, that was late the house of the aforesaid Richard Wyhiiington, in the north side. And it stretcheth fro the dwelling-place of the master and prestis of the college aboveseid." The exact dwelling of Sir Richard Wbittington having been thus ascertained, we desist from giving any further de scription of the house in Hart Street,; which having been despoiled of all its antique ornaments, is now converted to a warehouse for goods. Again crossing Mark Lane, we arrive at the parish church of ¦ ALHALLOWS STAINING, MARK LANE. THIS church had the additional appellative of Staining, or Stane Church (or Stone Church) to distinguish it from other churches that were of old built of timber *. * 'Vol. I. p. 47. note, Xx 2 Its 344 LONDON. Its foundation is uncertain ; though in early periods it belonged to the family of De Waltham, and was appro priated by bishop Sudbury, in 1361, to tbe abbey of Our Lady of Grace ; but it was so old as to fall down a short time after the fire, about the year 1669, and was rebuilt in 1694. Tbe building is, very pkin, having neither pillar.nor gal lery ; the front next the street is of free stone, of tiie Tus can order, and the inside is wainscotted seven feet and an half high. The whole of the interior is devoid of ornament. The height of the church is twenty-four feet, breadth thirty- two, and length seventy-eight feet in the whole. The al titude of the tower is about seventy feet ; it contains (ones of wbich is dated liSS) six bells. The benefactors put up in a table at the west end of the church are ten ; the Grocers Company gave the window, on which is painted the following inscription : " A, D. 1664. 1.6 R. Car II. This window was thus glazed, and a liberal allowance granted towards the repairing of the church, and the parsonage house, by the right worshipful Company of Grocers, patrons of this church and rectory, being an im propriation purchased by the company, and disposed tb the sole benefit of the church, according to the trust and ap pointment of the memorable Lady Dame Margaret Slany, whose pious intention and paternal arms is here monumen tally recorded." There were other ancient benefactors; particulariy Mr. John Castin, Gilder; who died in the year 1244, and gave one hundred quarters of charcoal . yearly tp the poor for ever ; also Mr. John Man, Citizen and Mercer, who deceased the third day of June 1615, &c. gave towards the repair of the church 100/. Monuments. Tbose mentioned by Stow, are as follow ; Sir Robert Test, knight of the Holy Sepulchre. Sir John Steward, and his lady. Sir Richard Tate, ambassador to king Henry the VHItb, buried in 1554. Mr. LONDON. 345 Mr. Christopher Holt, who bad inscribed on his tomb r Our Holt (alas) hath stint his hold, By Death call'd hence in hast ; Whose Christian name being Christopher, With Christ is belter plac'd. In Sawton born, of gentle Race, In London spent his days ; A Clerk that serv'd in Custom-house, In Credit many ways. So that we loose the Loss ' ' Of this so dea,r a Friend, Whose Life well spent while he was here Hath gained a better End. There are at present monuments to the memory of .Daniel Fogg, D.D. Hugh Ingram, Esq. Monkhouse Davison, Esq. and Walter Ray, Esq. The living is a lay-impropriation, though a rectory ; the tithes being paid according to act of parliament to the in cumbent for his own use. The advowson is in the gift of the Company of Grocers. The churchwardens books of this parish are very antient and curious, the earliest date of which is 1492. The de scription of the interior of the church in the reigns, of Henry VII. and VIII. with the furniture, sacred utensils, &c. affords much entertainment. It appears that in 1494, Roger Apsland " cast the chalice on the ground." ,The cause of this sacrilege is not recorded, but the " playnt against him him cost 2d. the arrest, Sd. and the withdrawing, 6d. The organ, in 1520, cost only 4Z. 6s. Sd. There is no organ at present. The inhabitants of this parish had their infant bi.shop, in honour of St. Nicholas ; as appears by the following extract from the register: " 1535. The churchwardens paid unto the Goodman Chese, broyderer, for making a new mytter for the byshoppe ageynst Saint Nycholas nyght, 2s. Sd. *" " When • " It was the ancient practice," says Mr. Malcolm, " onPahn Sun day', for the people to walk in procession (preceded by the priests and choir), 346 LONDON, " When the Princess Elizabeth came forth from her con finement in the Tower, she went into the church of AU hallows Staining, the first church she found open, to return thanks for her deliverance from prison. As soon as this pious work was concluded, and the thanksgiving finished, the princess and her attendants retired to the King's Head in Fenchurch Street, to take some refreshment; and here her royal highness was regaled with pork and pease. The memory of this visit is still preserved at the King's Head ; and on the nth of November, her highness's birth-day, certain people still meet to eat pork and pease in honour of the visit and the day. It must be observed, however, that as the Princess Elizabeth came from her confinement in the Tower, according to Mr. Nichols, in his Progresses, some day in May, the original day bas probably been lost and forgot, and the birth-day. substituted in its stead. A print of the Princess Elizabeth, from a picture by Hans Holbein, is hung up in the great room of the tavern ; and the dish, that appears to be of a piixed metal, in which the pork and pease were served up, still remains affixed to the dresser in the kitchen *." There is a tradition that the bells were rung with such zeal on this occasion, that the qtleen presented the ringers with silken ropes. A lane formeriy passed this church from Mark Lane into Fenchurch Street, called Craddock's Lane. This avenue being encumbered by encroachments, was reduced to being called Church Alley, and now Star Alley. It exhibits a most striking portrait of the unhealthy and inconvenient mode of antient structure. At the end of this alley is the King's Head tavern above mentioned. choir), with consecrated palm branches in their hands, in commemora tion of the public entry of Our Saviour into Jerusalem, when the Jews strewed his way with the leaves of that tree. 'V'Vhat an angel had to do with this ceremony T am at a loss to conceive ; but it is cercain the priests cf AUhallows Staining thought the presence of one necessary; and ac ¦ cordingly the churchwardens paid ' for the hyring of a payer of wynges, and a creste, for an angelle on Paulmt;; Sonday, viiid." • Gentleman's Magazine, March 1790. IRONMONGER'* 5 LONDON. 347 IRONMONGER'S HALL is a very noble, modern structure. , The edifice is entirely fronted with Portland stone ; it was erected in the year 1748, from a design by Mr. Holden. The whole lower story is formed in rustic : the centre of the building has a small projection ; and here is a large arched entrance, with three windows on each side. Over this basement the superstructure has a slight rustic at the corners, to correspond with the other parts of the building ; the projecting part of this story is ornamented with four Ionic pillars coupled, but with a large inter-columiiiation In the centre is a spacious Venetian window, and over it one that is circular. The spaces between the pilasters contain smaller windows, with angular pediments; over these are others that are circular ; but the sides of the building are ornamented by arched windows, surmounted by square ones. The central part of the hall is crowned by a pedi ment, supported by the pila.sters abovementioned ; and in its plane is the arms of the companv, with suitable decora tions, in relievo ; the whole building is terminated by a balustrade, crowned by vases. The vestibule is divided bji^ six Tuscan columns into avenues, with apartments on the left, an entrance to the court room on the right, and the stairs of the dining hall in front. On one side of the latter is the door to a court, in which are handsome apartments for the clerk, and other officers, as well as a good kitchen. In the Court Room, at the north end, are two antique chairs, with carved wprk of the companj^'s arms ; over which, in a small niche in the wall, is a statue of .Ed ward IV. in armour, ctotlied in his regal robes, and crowned. It is a very pleasing performance. The portraits in this room are those of Nichol.is Leate, Esq. master in 16^6-7; and Mr. John Child, senior warden, 1782. A large paint ing of Westminster Bridge is over the chimney piece. The Withdrawing RoOm is approached by a very hand some oval "-eometrical stair-case, at the east end of th? ijalk 343 LONDON. ball. In this apartment is an elegant chimney piece, and at the north end a small statue of Sir Robert Jeffrey, knight, alderman. Ironmonger, and lord mayor in 1686, the bene volent founder of the hospital in Kingsland Road. The State Room is very magnificent, with Ionic deco rations, a divided pediment, and a bust ; it is entered through large folding doors. On the west side are the chairs of the master and wardens ; behind which, among some very beautiful carved work, the arms of England is very excellently displayed; A grand beaufet, with Ionic columns and pilasters, ornaments the north side, on which side also is the fire place. The east end is appropriated to the orchestra, which is supported by two pillars. The whole iroom over the windows, is surrounded by a cornice, whence, a semi-oval cieling rises, with the company's arms, satyr's head, various cornua-copise, palm branches, flowers, scrolls, and three large pannels, enclosed by beautiful bor ders, all richly stuccoed. The centres of this cieling arc French grey ; the ornaments are 'white, as are the walls ; but the carvings are gilt. The portraits in this room are— at the west end, Thomas ThOrold, Esq. Mr. Thomas Betton. This gentieman, by will in 1723-4, made the company trustees for the following ex cellent purposes : " One-half of the interest and profits of the possessions devised, to be expended in ransoming Bri tish subjects, captives in Barbary or Turkey. One quarter to be divided among the difierent charity schools of Lon don, and the suburbs : but the sum given not to exceed 20/. to any one. The remaining fourth to be distributed among poor freemen. Ironmongers, their widows, or chil dren, in sums not exceeding 10s. per ahnum. Ons hun dred pounds per annum to a female relation for life; 10/. per annum to a clergyman of the church of England, and to keep his tombstone in the Kingsland alms house burial .ground in repair. Admiral Lord Viscount Hood, by Gainsborough ; a very fine picture, presented by his lordship, a freeman of the company. South LONDON. ?*3 iSoutn side. Mr. Rowland He'Vlin, a gbod benefactor. Thomas Michell, a good benefactor. This gentleman, in 1527, devised the land on which stands the church of St. Luke, Old Sti'eet, &c. to the company. Sir , James Cambell, a good benefactor. Alderinan Cambell gave lOOO/. to be lent to ten young meti, free of this company, at 100/. each, for three year^, at 4 per cent. per annum. He ordered also that the interest of the above sum should be given by the master and wardens to the she riffs of London, for the release of honest freemen of Lon don from confinement, for debts pot exceeding 5l. each. Sir William DenhaM, a good benefactor. This gen tleman, in 1544, gave thirteen messuages to the company for ever, part of the possessions of the abbey of Barking ; on condition that they should have a " Dirige" celebrated by note, within the chapel of Our Lady of Barking, fOr the soul of the founder, his lady, parents, children, and benefactors. To this mass the master and wardens were to bring their best cloth for the hearse, and to distribute 10/. stetling. To the vicar of Alhallows Barking, Is. Ad. ; to - seven priests, 'is.Sd. ; thtee clerks, 2i. ; for wax, 2,?.; for. the bells. Is. Sd. ; for bread and cheese, 3^. Ad. ; ale, 3s. 4d. ; to one hundred poor persons, 3/. 65. Sd. ; to forty-five poor, 305. ; and to twenty -five poor, ils. Sd. On the wall at the back of the orchestra. Sir Rober* GfeFFREY, a worthy benefactor. This magistrate, in 1703, bequeathed 400/. ' in trust to the company, for which they were to purchase an estate, and out of the profits to sup ply a fund for reading pra}rers twice every day, in the parish church of St. Dionis Backchurch; ^^500 in trust foi? a fund to supply weekly bread to the poor of Landrake, and St. Emers, Cornwall ; and to pay the salary of a school master, for poor children. A present to the company of 200/. and two -silver flagons, of 30/^ each. The residue of his estate to purchase ground for an alms house, for so many poor people as the money arising from the residuary part of his property, at the rate of 6/. per annum each parson, Would extend; and 15.?. each for gowns. The company Vol. IL No. 4i. Yy *» 359 LONDON. to purchase an estate for building the alms houses, and paying the poor, with a reservation for the repair of the building. Mr. Ralph Handson, a good benefactor, formeriy clerk to the company. He gave, in 1653, the profits of five mes suages in the parish of St. Olave, Hart Street, amounting to upwards of 70/. per annum, to charitable purposes: these are now distributed agreeably to his direction. The estate has been let to the East India Company, from Mi chaelmas 1808, at the yearly rent of 300/. for tbe term of three hundred and seventy-eight years, renewable every twentyrone years, on the payment of 500/. at each re newal. Mr. Thomas Lewin, a good benefactor. This gentle man by will, in 1545, gave his great messuage and garden, in the parish of St. Nicholas Olave, and fourteen houses in the same parish; for which the company were to provide a priest, &c. who was to sing masses four days in the week, and to preach four sermons in the church of St. Nicholas Olave, yearly ; for this he was to have 10/. as a salary, and the best of five houses in the church yard, for his resi dence. He was also to have a gown, whenever the com pany gave their liveries ; for which he was to say grace at all the festivals of the company, who were to procure, at their own expence, the bread, wine, and wax, necessary for the celebration of two hundred and eight masses, an nually. The remaining four houses, adjoining to the priests, were appropriated to as many poor men, rent free (or others on Bread Street Hill) with annual pensions of €s. 8d. each- The company were also to observe an obit for him and others in St. Nicholas church, which was to con sist of " a whole Dirige over even, and mass of Requiem on the morrow by note ; expending at those times 2/. 13s. id. in bread, cheese, and money for the poor. He directed them to provide one lamp, to burn before the Holy and Blessed Sacrament of the altar, as far as 40s, per annum would admit ; and to honour the same, two tapers upon the altar, to the extent of 53.?. 4^. per annum ; and to pay 5l, per annum to two poor scholars at Oxford or Cambridge. Mr; LONDON. ZSl' Mr. Thomas Hallwood, a good benefactor! Tbi» member of the company gave 400/. for the maintenance of four pobr scholars at Oxford or Canlibridge, for three years ; after that term was expired, the same bequest was extended suceessively for ever : 40.?. per annum were also paid to the wardens from the profits. Mrs. Margaret Dane, a good benefactress. This lady, in the year 1 579, bequeathed 2000/. to the company for the purposes of bestowing 10/. to each of the three hospitals of Christ Church, St. Thomas, and Bridewell ; 10/. to twenty poor maids on their marriage; \0l. per annum to Oxford and Cambridge ; 10/. per annum for bread and beef for pri soners ; 5/. per annum to Bishop's Stortford ; twelve hun dred bundles of faggots, to be divided between twenty-four wards of London (the company paying each ward, in lieu of faggots, 1/. IQs. each) ; and 10/. for a dinner op the day ®f her decease. In one of the windows on this side, is a portrait in painted glass of Sir Christopher Draper, mayor in 1567. This magis trate gave the land on which the company's hall, and two adjoining houses, are erected. IRONMONGER'S COMPANY. The Ironmongers were incorporated in the third year of Edward IV. A. D. 1462 ; is one of the twelve principal li very companies ; and is a corporation governed by a master, two wardens, and the whole livery, which consists of eighty-four, who are assistants. In the year 1300, complaint was made of the Ferones, or such as dealt in iron, to Elias Russel, mayor, and the al dermen, because tbe smiths of the wealds, and other mer chants, brought down irons of wheels for carts, to the city of London, which were much shorter than antiently they were accustomed to have been, to the great loss and scandal of the whole trade of ironmongers. An inquisition was there fore taken, of lawful and honest men, who presented three iron rods of the just and antient used length of the strytes ; «ind also of, the length and breadth of the gropes, be, Y y ? longing 352 LONDON. longing to the wheels of carts ^ which rods were sealed with the seal of the chamber of Guildhall, London j whereof one remained in the chamber, and another delivered, on t'ne Monday before the Pacification of the Virgin Mary, 29 Edward I. to John Dode, and Robert De Padington, iron mongers of the market; and a third delivered on the same Monday to John De Wymondham, ironmonger, of ,the .Bridge. All which, from day to day, warned all the mer chants bringing these iron works to the city of London, as well for the wealds as elsewhere ; that they should not ¦ henceforward bring such irons, unless of the length and breadth aforesaid, upon forfeiture of the said iron works* that should be found against the assize aforesaid, This respectable company, as appears by their curious court books, have on, all occasions borne a great part to wards siipplying the exigencies of the state ; and there are many instances, where the exactions have been oppressive- The court books also contain many particulars respecting ceremonies, processions, &c. and the expences attendant, , that they are well worth perusal. The income of the company, in 1802, amounted to 3850/. 12s. 2rf, :. but to prove that this revenue is not exr pended in useless pursuits, the following statement is suffi cient to conplude that the Ironmonger's Company are not ex ceeded in beneficence or public spirit. They pay, agreeably to the will of Mr. Handson, to the free school of St. Savioiir, Southwark, 20^. to the master, ^nd 10.?. to the usher, as an a'Ugmentation. To the school of Bishop's Stortfosd, Si. They keep in repair, and pay the pensions of the various foundations of Sir.Robert Geffery. They suppo»t another set of alms houses in Old Street. They pay, agreeably to the will of Mr. Chapman, 5.1. eaeh to'two poor scholars, studying Divinity in Oxford. Agreeably also, to the wilL of Mr. John Care, they ex pend 15/. to two poor scholars, one in Cambridge, the other ip Oxford, to go by course for twenty-one years ; the first" year LONDON^ 35% year to certain poor parishes in London ; the next year t» the said poor scholars ; and the third year to the poor of the parish of Standon, in Essex. ^ They support two exhibitions of 5/. per annum each ; the colleges to be appointed by the company. All the exhibi tions which they support amount to twelve. Other pensions and gifts paid by the company are ;.— 200?. to poor scholars, hospitals, prisoners, &c. ; 30/, for three yearly sermons ; and 300/. to ,be lent to young men. Eight quarters of beef, and forty dozen of bread, sent to eight prisons in London, Westminster, and Southwark, A yearly gift of 40/. to release poor prisoners, for small debts. — Forty pounds per annum among the poor of the company. -^To widows and orphans in St. Saviour's parish, 51. per annum. — To twenty poor widows, or others of the company, upon the first quarter day next after'Christmas, at the rate of 5s. each, 5/.— To the poor of the wards of Q,ueen-_ hithe, and Castle Baynard, an annual distribution of 25/.—? To the sub-dean of St, Paul's cathedral, 10/. he allowing taxes. —Ten pounds yearly to twenty poor maids at their mar riages, at 10.?. each. The company also dispose of numerous other charities. Passing the norths end of Mincing Lane, a few doors down, is CLOTHWORKER's HALL, This is a neat brick building, with fluted columns, crowned- with Corinthian capitals of stone. The appearance from the street is rather^-mean ; but the hall is a lofty room, wain scoted to the ceiling, which is highly adorned wjth fret work. The screen is of oak, with four pilasters, en tablature and compass pediment of the Corinthian order. At the west end are carvings, as large as life, of James L and Charles I. in their robes ; and in the windows are painted the arms of England, the city, company, and others be longing to the masters and betipfaptors, THE 35 1 LONDON. THE CLOTHWORKER's COMPANY is one of the twelve principal in the City, and was incor porated, first by letters patent of Edward IV. in 1482, by the name of '* The Fraternity of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, of the Sheermen of London ;" se condly, by Queen Elizabeth!, who changed their first ap pellation, to that of " The Master, Wardens, and Com monalty of Freemen of the Art and Mystery of Cloth workers of the City of London ; which title was confirmed by Charles I. This company has a master, four wardens, thirty assistants, and a livery; and supports the following charities: A free school at Sutton Vallence, in Kent ; another in the Isle of Man. Almshouses, at Sutton Vallence, and Islington. Anniversary sermons and lectures, eighteen, in various parts of England. Exhibitions for poor scholars : nine in the two universities. Besides thirty-seven benefactors at different petiods, at 100/. each, for the use of the poor. The whole expendi ture of this company for charitable purposes is estimated at 1400/. per annum. In Fen Court is the churchyard of St. Gabriel, Fenchurch ; the church was destroyed by the Great Fire ; and not having been rebuilt, the parish was annexed to that of St. Mar garet Pattens, Rood Lane. On the west side of Lime Street is PEWTERER's HALL. This hall was given to the company by Mr. William Small- wood, master, in the second year of the reign of Henry VII. This gentleman, by will, bequeathed also a garden and nine tenements to tbe brotherhood ; and a commemorative pict ture of him still hangs in the Court Room. A carving over the door represents a crown over a red rose, T, G. a ship on a globe, and the sun rising, inscribed : *' Si Deus pro nobis, quis contra nos ?" If God be for us, who can be against us i' There LONDON. 355 There is also a dial, with a spider and fly crawling on it ; inscribed, " Sic VitaJ" So is life ; and the company's arms under a small pediment. > This company was incorporated by letters patent, granted, to them by Edward I V. in 1474. In 1534, the wardens of the Pewterer's Company, or their deputies, were empowered, by act of parliament, to have inspection of pewter in all parts of the kingdom, in order to prevent the sale of base pewter ; and the importa tion of pewter vessels from abroad. As a further encou ragement, all Englishmen are by that act strictly enjoined not to repair to any foreign country to teach the art or my stery of Pewterers, on pain of disfranchisement: and for the more effectually preventing the art being carried abroad, no pewterer is to take the son of an alien as an apprentice. This corporation has a master, two wardens, twenty-eight assistants, and livery. St. DIONISIUS, vulgarly called St. DIONIS, BACK CHURCH, FENCHURCH STREET. THIS church owes its name to St. Dionis, Dennis, or Dionysi«s, an Athenian Areopagite, or judge, who being converted on the preaching of St. Paul at Athens, was bap- tizwi 3SS LONDON. tized by him, and consecrated the first bishop of Athen* by St. Paul. With respect to his going as a missionary to Gaul, and founding an episcopal see at Paris, where be is said to have suffered martyrdom, and to carry his head^ after it was cut off, two miles, we do not think it worth while to hazard any opinion ; refering to the authorities of Doctors Cave, Du Pin, and others, who have treated the whole as a fable ; but proceed to add, that this saint, after a most resolute and eminent confession of faith, and after having undergone Several severe torments, gave his last great testimony, by laying down his life at Athens, under the reign 6f the emperor Domitian. The building is de nominated Back Church, on account of its situation behind a row of houses. . With respect to its history, we have no other authentic docu ment, than that it was in t^e patronage of the prior and convent of Christ Church, Canterbury, in 1288; and, that being decayed, it was rebuilt in the reign of Henry VI, The former structure was demolished by the fire in 1666, and the present church finished in 1674 ; the steeple wSs erected within ten years afterwards. The building mostly partakes of the lotiic order, and is strongly built of stone and brick; the walls within are handsomely wainscoted and the floor paved. Four Composite pillars, with elegant carved work, under an entablature and cir cular pediment compose the altar. Thte organ is a large, un- decorated instrument, in a recess. Thechurch is small, but well lighted by arched windows; and the steeple is very lofty, and contains ten small bells, with chimes. The di mensions of the fabric are, length sixty-six feet, breadth fifty-nine, altitude thirty-four, and the tower and turret ninety feet. Among the tienefactors for rebuilding the church, there are many names worthy ef notice, and are therefore sub joined : Sir Thomas Cullum, baronet, gave the marble foot pace and steps for the communion table. Sir Arthur Ingram, the communion table and rails. Sir Henry Tulse, the font, steps, and pavement. 3 Sir LONDON 357 iSir Robert Geffery, a velvet carpet for the communion table, with silk and gold firinge, a common prayer book, and pulpit cushion of the same, the latter with silk and gold tassels. Dame Elizabeth Clark, for her latehusband. Dr. Hardy, dean of Rochester, formerly rector, 50/. and for herself, 30/. Thomas Sturges, Esq. the gallery at the west end. Mr. Philip Jackson, the altar piece, and his wife a da^ mask table cloth and napkin for the communion table. A friend of Mr. Jackson's, a silver chalice, paten, and spoon. Mr. Peter Hoet, a silver bason and chalice for the com munion, and 25/. Dr. CastilUon, a bible and two common prayer books. Mr. Daniel'Rawlinson, a brass branch of sixteen sockets. Mr. Church gave 10/. and Mr. Williams, 25/. Sir Robert Geffery, besides his other donations, 400/. to jnaintain reading prayers for ever ; also 50/, There were buried in the old church, according to Stow, Lady Wich ; Robert Paget, sheriff, 1536. Sir Thomas Curtis, mayor, 1557. Sir Janies Harvie, mayor, 1581. Sir Ed. Osborne, mayor, 1591. » Among the modern monuments are those of Sir Arthur Ingram, a respectable Spanish merchant, and his family. Another to the paemory of the Rawlinson family, of whom Sir Thomas Rawlinson, an eminent city magistrate ; and Dr. Richard Rawlinson, were distinguished members. The latter was an eminent collector and antiquary, and died in 1756. His library after his death produced 1164/. by a sale which lasted fifty days. He was buried in the cha pel of St. John's college, Oxford, of which college he was a member and benefactor. He also founded a Saxon lecture ship in that university. Other monuments are erected to the memory of Mr. and Mrs. Craven, D'Oyley Michel, Esq. William Martin, Esq; Thomas Hankey, Esq. Edward Tyson, M. D, 1708. Vol. ll. No. 42. Z z On 358 LONDON. On the north side of the chancel is a very spacious and beautiful white and veined polished marble monument, adorned with the sword and mace, and cap of maintenance ill Basso Relievo, at the lower end of the monument ; also with cherubims, urns, festoons, deaths heads, and between two cherubims weeping. His arms, and the following inscrip tion appearing within a curious mantling, carved round and gilt with gold, in imitation of fringe. In the Chancel is interred the Body of Sir Robert Geffery, Knight \ and Alderman, sometime since Lord Mayor of this City of London, President of the Hospitals of Bridewell and Bethlehem ; a most excellent Magistrate, and of exemplary Charity, Virtue and Good ness ; who departed this Life the 26lh of February 17G3, inthe 91st year of his Age. And also the Body of Dame Percilla his Wife, Daughter of Luke •Cropley, Esq; who deceased the 26th of October 1676, in the ' 43d year of her Age. Over the monument are Sir Robert's ensigns' of honour, helmet, sword, gauntlets, and banners, with his armorial bearings; The living is one of the thirteen peculiars belonging to Canterbury, in the same manner as we have before men- ..tioned under St. Dunstan in the East, and the dean and chapter of that cathedral present to the rectory. . Among the rectors was that most amiable and charitable prelate Dr. Warner, bishop of Rochester, founder of Brom ley college. Fenchurch Street took its name from the fenny ground, occasioned by the Lang-bourne; and for this reason the ward is denominated Layigboitrn, and Fenny about. Before the fire the little church of St. Gabriel stood in the middle of the street; but not being rebuilt, a portion of ground in Fen-court is reserved for a burial ground ; and thus Fen- -church Street was made wide and convenient. Here formerly stood Denmark House, in which the Russian ambassador was entertained with great magnificence in the reign of queen Mary I. Several LONDON. J59 Several lanes and streets in Fenchurch Street, deserve no tice from particular circumstances, besides those already mentioned. Cullum Street, was so called from a knight of that name, who was owner of the premises. Philpot Lane, was formerly the house and garden of the great Sir John Philpot, the patriotic citizen, in the reign of Richard II- Ingram Court now covers the residence of Sir Thomas Ingram, whose monument is in the church. Rood Lane, was pecu liarly the residence of eminent citizens, and 9oat present are many of the streets and lanes in this neighbourhood., SAINT BENEDICT, OR SAINT BENNET, GRACECHURCH STREET. M THIS saint was born in the province of Umbria, one ofthe Italian States, in 480, and was patriarch of an order of monks called from him Benedictines, or Black-friars, from the colour of their habit; of which order were all the English cathedrals, except Carlisle. From the Benedictines have sprung many lesser orders, who took the rules of the first founder. Saint Benedict lived in retirement at this monastery of Cassino, which he had founded, till A.D. 543, when he died at the age of sixty-two. It is uncertain when this church was first built ; but Stow says, <' It was repaired and beautified in the year 1630, and Zz2 bad 360 LONDON. had a new clock dyal and chymes added. Anno 1633." In the year 1666 it was consumed by the fire of London, and again re-edifyed in the year 1685. The roof is arched and adorned with fret- work. It is very well wainssotted round, and handsomely pewed; and at the west end of the church is a neat little gallery. The altar piece is spacious, consisting of four fine columns with the entablement of the Corinthiaw order. Between the columns are the effigies of Moses and Aai-on ; and the Whole of the altar is enriched with fruit, leaves, festoons, &c. all richly carved. Over this carved work, is a large piece of architecture, painted in perspective, representing the arclied roof and pi lasters of a building, which appear from under a purple vel vet festoon curtain, elevated by two cherubims;- the altaris inclosed with rail and banister, and the floor isx paved with black and white marble. Here is also a curious font adorned with cherubiras, &c' and the coyer is fine carved work, round which are these words: — " Suffer the little' children to come unto me, and forbid them not, for of such is the kingdom of God." The length of the church within is about sixty feet, breadth thirty, and height about thirty-two. It is built mostiy of stone, as is also the tower or steeple, whose altitude is about one hundred and forty-nine feet. In the west gallery is a small organ. It is a rectory in the gift of the dean and chapter of St. Paul's Cathedral. The vestries are select. To this parish is united that of St. Leonard Eastcheap. The street in which this church is situated, was formerly, according to Stow, a grass market ; from what follows, how- jever, it appears to have been a market for other commodities. The customs of Gracechurch Street market, in the reign of Edward III. were, that: " Every foreign cart laden with corn or malt to Gersecherche, to be sold, was to pay one halfpenny. Every foreign cart of corn and cheese together, if the cheese be more worth than the coi-n, two-pence; then if the corn be more worth than the cheese, it was. to pay a ^ half- LONDON. 361 halfpenny. Of two horses laden with corn or malt, the bai liff had one farthing. ' The cart of the franchise of the Tem ple, and of St. Martin's le Grand, paid one farthing ; the cart of the hospital of St. John of Jerusalem paid nothing for their proper goods : and if the corn were brought by merchants to sell again, the load paid one halfpenny." In Gracechurch Street, towards Cornhill, are the Cross Keys and Spread Eagle Inns. The first is probably derived from the cross and keys, whicb were usually carved in the fronts of churches, of which there are specimens in Ciampini De Sacris JEdificiis. The residences of the nobility and other principal persons -•were formerly distinguished by the names of hotel or. inn. The magnificent houfc of Sir John Poultney was called Poultney's Inn : It was also the inn of John- Holland, duke of Exeter. The great Earl of Warwick had also his inn, by Newgate Street. The antient monasteries had their hostila- rius, whose business it was to entertain guests, and to pro vide them with firing, napkins, and other necessaries during their stay. Proceeding to the cross streets, where was formerly the antient standard, we remark that, upon digging the foun dations, after the fire in Bishopsgate Street, in 1765, the arches of a sacred fabric ¦• qf remote date were discovered. Hence to the Royal Exchange, concludes the First Rout. SECOND ROUT. From the Royal Exchange to Aldgate, Whitechapel Bars', Dukes Place, Houndsditch, Bishopsgate Street, to Norton Falgate, Wormwood Street, to Broad Street, Threadneedle Street, to the Royal Exchange ; including part of Aldgate, B}shopsga(e, and Broad Street Wards. IN the first rout we have described all that is worthy of notice through Cornhill to the end of Leadenhall Street; the first object, therefore, which claims our primary atten tion, is the entry from Aldgate to Duke's Place. Here, 362 'LONDON. Here, as we have before stated,* was the Priory of the Holy Trinity, or Christ Clinrch ; founded in 1 108, by Maud, queen to Flenrv I. the prior of which, in consequence of the donation of Kriightenguild or Portsoken, was always an alderman, and appointed his deputy to transact temporal concerns. Having already said much upon its history, we have only to add, that it was esteenied'the richest priory in England, and probably, for that' reason, was the first to be dissolved. Henry VIII. granted , it to Sir Thomas Audley,^ afterwards lord chancellor, who made it his residence, and died here in 155!-. Sir Thomas offered the great church of the priory, with a ring of nine bells to the parishioners of St. Catlierine Cree, in exchan.f;e for their parish church Sf lesser dimensions, as he wished to have pulled it down and built towards the street. They, however, fearing tbe uncertainty of the tenure, de clined the proposal. The priory church and steeple were then offered to whoever would take it down and clear away the materials; but no one was induced to accept the offer. Upon which Sir Thonias was obliged to be at more expence in taking down the fabric, than could be made of the stones, timber, lead, iron, &c. for the workmen, having commenced tbeir delapidation at the top, without any method, loosed the stones and hurled them down, so that they were broken, and of course sold under their value ; any one might have a cart-load of hard stone brought to his own d9or for 6d. or Id. wich the carriage. The bells were disposed of to the parishes of Stepney, and St. Stephen, Coleman Street ; the first pur chased four of the largest, which form part of the present peal ; the latter purchased the remainder. After Sir Thomas's decease, the duke of Norfolk, came into possession, by marrying his daughter. Upon this nobleman's attainder and execution, in conse quence of bis interference in the business of tbe queen of Scots, his possessions having been forfeited to the crown, this precinct, from the last posscsisor denominated Duke's Place, continued in that tenure till the reign of James I. when a misunderstanding having arisen with the parisiiioners of St. * Vol. I. page 60. Catherine tONDON. 363 Catherine Cree and the inhabitants of Duke's Place, the lat ter solicited the archbishop of Canterbury to obtain the king's licence for building a church of tbeir own. To this the king assented, and under his broad seal warranted them in pro ceeding with the structure, which was consecrated in 1622, during the mayoralty of Sir Edward Barkham ; the manor of Duke's Place havhig been previously vested in tlie mayor, commonalty, and citizens of London. ST. JAMES, DUKE'S PLACE. THIS fabric is plain and unadorned, being constructed with brick. The tower is of tiie same materials, and cm- battled, on which is built a turret. The body is enlightened by four arched vvindows, and the pillars which support the reof are Tuscan. On the north window is painted the arms of the city, and of Sir Edward Barkham : An inscription was aflixed on the north side of the chancel in. honour of the above magistrate : VERSES consecrated to the eternizing the memory of the right honourable Sir Edward Barkham, Lord Mayor of London; the religious Mr, George Whitmore and Mr. Nicholas Raynton, Sherifls and Alder men of the honourable Senate and City, for their pious re-edifying the long decayed ruins of Trinity Christ Church in Duke's Place. As S54 LONDON. As David would his Eyes no rest afford, Till he had found a Place out to the Lord To build a Temple; so this Man of Worth, The Mirrour which these latter days bring forth, Barkham the Worthy, whose Immortal Name Marble's too weak to hold ; for his Works Fame, He never ceas'd in Industry and Care From Ruine to redeem this House of Prayer ; Following in this the Holy Patriarchs way.s. That ready were an Altar still to raise When they received a Blessing ; so this Lord Scarce warm in Honour's Seat, did first accord To this- most pious Work, by which is shewn God's Blessing ^id his Thanks met both in one. The Charge the Honourable City bears. Whose Bounty in full Nobleiiess appears To Acts of bless'd Condition, in such wise That all things better'd by their ruins rise. Two Noble Faithful Supervisors then. Among a Senate of Religious Men, Selected were, to whom the Care they gave. The Geuerous Hamersly, Cambel the Grave, ¦Each bejng a Master piece of Zeal and Care Tow'rd God's own Temple, fit for Truth's Affair, Now at the blessed Foundress I arrive, Matilda, whom Henry the fir.st did wive, TKe Christ'ridem she gave, held the same Till James our Sovereign gave it his own Name. And since I touch Antiquity so near. Observe what Notes remarkable appear : An Alderman of London was at first The Prior of this Church ; falling to th' worst, 'Tis now raised by th' Encouragernent and Care Of a Lord Mayor of London ; which is rare And worth observing ; then as I began I end best with the Honour of that Man This City's first Lord Mayor lyes bury'd here, Fitz-Alwin of the Drapers Company ; And the Lord May'r, whose Fame now shines so clear, Barkham, is ef the same Fraternity. The LOKDON. 36^ The church is dedicated to the inemory of king James I imd its dimensions are, length sixty-five fe^, breadth forty- two, altitude twenty-seveh,, and the tOwer seventy feet, The living is a curacy of ho grejlt value, in the presenta tion of the lord mayor And COi'poration. "The perquisites were formerly considerable ; but from this beipg a principal quarter for the residence of those of the Jewish religion, the surplice fees have Considerably diminished. The history of this antient chosen people of God, as fai as concerristheir introduction and progifess in England, forms lio small part of our consideration. it appears from the learned Sir Henry Spelman, that they were recognized in England as early as the reign of Edward the Confessor, in one of whose laws it is declared, that " the Jews, and all theirs, belong to the king." They had been sfettled in Various parts of this country for a considerable time previously ; for iti A. D. 740, Edgbriht, arohbishpp of York, forbad " any Christian to be present at the Jewish feasts.'' / The unprincipled tytapt, William Rufus, is among tha nrst recorded to have patrOnizdd these people j this,'how- eVer, did not proceed froni any motive of toleration. Wil liam, though a Christian by profession, was an infidel in his practice ; he kept alb the ecolesiastical benefices in his oWh hands as they were Vacated,' and received the profits, until he could dispose of them to the highest bidder. Such a man, who could so scandalously sport with his own reli gion, would not make arty conscience concernitfg any other where his interest was concerned ; . consequently when the Jews, by means of considerable presents, gained his consent to permit religious controversies with his bishops, he swore " by the face of St. Luke, that if the Jews gained the vic tory, he would be a convert to their faith !" This meeting was held in London, and was ultimately declared to be in favour of the Christians. Stow, in his chronicles, after hav ing pientioned this wickedness of the king, adds, that ii was Followed with such dreadftrf claps of thunder, stoA so vio^ Vol. U. No. 43. 3 A Iwt 365 LONDON. lent an earthquake, as was scarpely ever felt in England, befqre. * r ' Under such a reign the Jews became wealthy, and their ingr^ss'^into the country was: numerous, In the city of Ox-, ford alone, they had purchased so many houses, that the stu- * HbllingsheaJmentions'a singular instance of William's mercenary irreligion. " The king being at Rhoan," says he, " on a time there came to him divers Jews, who inhabited th^t city, complaining that di vers of that narion had renounced their Jewish religion, and were be come Christians ; wherefore they besought him, that for a certain sym of money, which they offered to give, it might please hira to constrain them to abjure Christianity, and turn to the Jewish law again. He was content tb satisfy their desires ; and so receiving their money, called them before him ; and what with threats, and putting them otherwise in, fear, he compelled fivers of therti to forsake Christ, and to turn to their o}d prrors. Hereupon the father of one Stephen, a Jew converted t* the Christian faith, being sore troubled for that his sqn was turned a Christian, .(and hearing what the king had done in like matters,) pre sented unto him' sixty marks of silver, conditionally that he would enforce his son to return to the Jewish religion. 'Whereupon the young man was brought before the king, unto whom the king said " Sirrah ! . thy father here complaineth that, without his licence, thou art become a Christian : If this be true, I command thee to return again to the reli gion of thy nation, ^without any more ado." To whom the young maai answered, "Your grace (^as I guess) doth hut jest. 'Wherewith the king being movedj said " What ! thou dunghill knave, should I jest with thee ?' Get thee, hence quickly, and fulfil my commandment, or, by St. Luke's face, I will cause thine eyes to be plucked out of thine htad." 1;he young man, nothing abashed thereat, with a constant voice answered,. "Truly I will not do it, but know for certain, that if you were a good Christian, you would never have uttered any such words ; for it is the part of a Christian' to reduce them again to Christ which are departed from him, and not to separate them from him which are joined to hiui in- faith." The king.herewith confounded, commanded the Jew to get him out of his sight : But the father perceiving that the king could not persuade his son to forsake the Christian faith, required to have, his money again. To whom'the king said he had done so much as he had. promised to do ; that vvas to persuade him so far as he might. At length, when' he would have had the king dealt further in the matter, the king, to stop his mouth, tendered back to him the half of his money, andkspt the otherhitrisolf. All which encreased the suspicion men had of his in-' fidelity." CM»;//,?, Vol. Ill, p. 27. ¦/ ' dents LONDON. 367 dents were obliged to, become their tepants. Three public hostels, or places set apart for learning, were named froni their Jewish proprietors, Lombard Hall, Moses Hall, and Jacob Hall; the parishes of St. .Martin, St. Edward, and St. Aldate, were denoniinated the New and Old Jewry ; tbe rabbles kept public schools to instil their language, and this Christian seat of learning was superseded by the mandates of the rabbinical seminaries. Such inconsistent innovations, under a thoughtless^ and mercenary king, induced ill-timed arrogance in thpi, persons who were favoured, as they supposed, by bis unprincipled attention, they grew insolent and assuming ; and there is an instance mentioned by .Philip, prior of St. Frideswidey ¦ in Oxford ; where, mentioning the miracles of the saint whose life he is writing, he adds, " That a certain ypupg, Jew of Oxford, called Eum Crescat, the son of Mossey, of Wallingford, was so impudent at to laugh at her vptaries, and tell theni tbat he could cure their infirmities as we}! as the saint herself, ^t. Frideswide, no longer abje to suffer his insolence, so operated, upon him, that he suddenly ran distracted into his father's kitchen and hanged, himsejf in 'his own girdle." '" Upon which," continues the legend writer, " he was, according to custom, .conveyed to London in a cart, all the dogs in the city following his detested corps, and J^lping in ^ vaost frightful manner *." Taking the above story, with all its. exceptions, it plainly discovers that the imprudence and the ill use that they made of the indulgence which they received, brought on them the indignationof the whole mass of English sub jects, and ultimately provoked the horrid and impious suf ferings which they afterwards unjustly underwent: for what could be thought of those persons. Who, for a price,, held th® ecclesiastical living which. William had seized. Even at this time, however, their privileges were con tracted : they had only one public burial place in tbe kipg- dom; this was a large spot of ground .vyithout the walls of Londdn, in tho parish of St. Giles, Cripplegate, called, in * Mss. Bodl. Oxon. 3 A 2 ' antient .368 LONDON. antient deeds. The Jews Garden ; which, upon \hfiix ba. nishment in future times, was covered by tenements, and denominated Jewin Street: to this place alone they were compelled to carry their dead from every part of the kingdom. During the reign of Henry I. no mention is made of the Jews either in records or chronicles. Tho dreadful impression which the inconsiderate conduct of this misled people, had made on the English, aided by kingly pepulation on one side, and ecclesiastical arrogance and s^fiih principles on the other, opened a scene of perr seCution against them. A most barbarous crucifixion was said to have beep committed on a boy at Norwich, in 11 35, This was sufficient to raise the popular cry against the Jews. Some enthusiasts might have been guilty of enor mities ; but that they should be so lost to humanity, as tp commit crimes repugnant to its dictates, requires a vast dcr gree of authenticity befor^ it can claim due credit; more especially . when it is added by a monkish writer, that the barbarity was committed " in contempt of Christ and his Passion* ;" and it is a curious circumstance that the Jews Were never accused of these crucifixions but when the reign ing monarch was manifestly in want of money. Notwithstanding these supposed enormities, Henry II, granted that the Jews should have burial places on the out side of every city ; this indulgence, says Gervase of Can terbury, was so far from having any good eflfect upon them, that they crucified another boy at St. Edmund's Bury, where he was buried with great solemnity, and his bones continued io work miracles for many years. A ra tional conclusion is furnished by the monk himself, be sides the above enormity, for tbe Jewish persecution in this reign ; " twelve years, he adds, before this apcideiit, the king, wanting money, banished the wealthiest Jews out of England, and fined those whom he suffered to remain in the sum of six thousand marks." We must not therefore sup pose that such a piece of iniquity as this, could pass un- • Brompton. censured. LONDON. i6f (censured. Henry had banished the Jews, because he wanted money : of course, he would not miss such ap opportu nity, when an accusation of this "kind was brought for.? ward, either to fine or banish the Jews, who had crucified a child ! That they deserved correction in those days is certain; one Josefs, a Jew of Glocester, notwithstanding Henry's prohibition, had furnished money to his enemies in Ireland; and Sancto, a Jew of St, Edmund's Bury, had been so daring as to take in pledge, certain vessels appointed for the service of the altar ; others were grown so presumptuous, as even to scoff at the highest dignitaries of the church *. Bpt Hepry very soop found out a method to. punish these scoffers in the plenitude of their pride 5 for having mado an agreement with the king of France, to make a voyage to the Holy Land, he called a parliament at Northampton, in or der to raise tl?e ways and means. The Christians were taxed at seventy thousand pounds, and the Jews at sixty thou sand. Considering the amazing disparity, the exorbitance of the sum must be looked upon as an act of the highest barbarity ; and would induce pity for their excess of pu nishment, rather than reproach at their mental feelings. A * A certain Jew having the honour to travel towards Shrewsbury, in company with Richard PechS, archdeacon of Malpas, in Cheshire, and a reverend dean, whose name was Deiiillei amongst other discourse, which they condescended to entertain him with, the, archdeacon fold him, that his jurisdiction was so large as to reach from a place called III Street, till they came to Malpas, and took in a very wide space of country. ' To which the infidel, more witty than wise, immediately re plied, " Say you so. Sir, God grant me then a good deliverance ! for it seems, I ara riding in a country, where Sin (Peche) is the archdeacon, and the Devil himself the dean ; where the entrance into the arch-- deaconry is /// Street, and the going from it Bad Steps (Mal-pas) !" This is adduced to prove that the insolence of the Jews must have been very effensive to the common people, when two reverend dignitaries of the church could not'esS^cfpe raillery. The story is related by Giraldus Cambrensis, and he was certainly one of the most just of his time ; therefore his assertions are well worthy of credit. We cannot however avoid adding a belief that this facetious Jew, at least, could not he aa, accomplice in the before m^entioned tragical crucifixions. ¦" ' ¦ dislike Sfo LONDON. dislike arose between the two monarchs, the intended Cru sade was relinquished, and consequently the money was never levied. The Jews were soon after gratified by the death of Henry II. in the hope that their miseries would end with him : but they were lamentably disappointed. His successor, Richard I. being to be crowned at West minster, the Jews, willing to pay their court in the best inanner possible, flocked from all quarters in their best ap parel, and with rich presents to the new sovereign. His courtiers, as well as the populace, conceiving that the Jews were sorcerers, and might possibly bewitch tbe king, should they be permitted to attend at the coronation ; orders were therefore issued, forbidding any Jew, under the severest penalties, to come near the\ palace; but several, who had travelled a great distance, unwilling to lose their labour and expence, persuaded themselves, that being strangers, they should pass unnoticed in London, and ventured, in de fiance of the proclamation, to appear in the Abbey, where, being recognized, they were instantly assaulted and drag ged, half dead, out of the church. / The rumour of this proceeding having reached the City, the populace, imagining they should gratify their monarch, immediately broke open the houses of the persecuted, and murdered every Jew they could meet ; and they were not confined in their rage to the aiHicted persons they had im molated, but destroyed their habitations with fire. The more sage citizens had endeavoured in vain to repel this outrage ; but finding their efforts useless, they dis patched messengers, desiring assistance from the king. Upon the recital of the horrid news, Richard immediately dis patched^ Glan ville, his chief justice, with several of the chief nobihty, to suppress the riot ; they, however ,were unsuccess ful, and the insurgents continued their murder and spolia tion till next morning. By this time better measures having been concerted, the king caused such effectual enquiry to be made after the ringleaders, that several of them were apprehended and brought to JLUstice, Two were hanged for plundering LONDON. S7I plundering a Christian, under pretence that he was a Jew 5 and one for burning a Jew's house, v/hich had fired that of a Christian adjoining. But though these outrages against the Jews were thus hap pily suppressed, in and about London ; the report of the riches torn from them, so operated upon the generality of the lower classes pf people in other places, that, had nota peculiar Providence operated in their favour, their exter^ mination must have been inevitable. At York, in particular, a tragedy Avas acted af^ which human nature shudders. The rabble attacked the unfortu nate Jews who had retired, under the protection of the go vernor, to the castle for safety. Headed by the clergy, who thought they were doing God service by the extermi-, nation of his creatures, they attacked the castle on all sides, and held it in siege for several days. A canon re» gular of the Praemonstratinsian order, was so zealous in the , cjause, that he would often stand by them in his surplice, and proclaim with a loud voice, *' Destroy the enemies o£ Christ ! Destroy the enemies of Christ !" and before he went out in the morning to assist in battering the walls, he would eat— a consecrated host I But his eagerness was his destruc tion. Approaching too near the wall that was well de fended, a large stone from the battlements crushed him to death. In such a dreadful dilemma, the besieged Jews called a council, and having, in despair, consumed every article of value which bislortged to them by fire, and buried the re mainder in the earth, to disappoint the avaritious banditti of their iilunder, they set fire to the fortress in several places ; and the men, after cutting the throats of their wives and children, murdered thePiselves. Their adviser to this desperate act, a foreign rabbi, out of respect to Jocenus, a person of distinction among that people, first slew him ; the rabbi being the last. self devoted victim in this horrid tra gedy*. It is said that no less than fifteen hundred pe rished in this miserable manner f. * Knighton. t Po-x's Mactyro:»gy. Upon 3^2 tONDON. Upon Richard's return from the Crusades, lie took thd Je^vs under his pi^otection ; but, in order to know ivhat were the particular monies, goods, debts, real and per- sorial, and estates belonging to eVery Jew in the nation , and that he might more effectually fleece them, as his ne cessities or caprice suggested, he commanded that all ef fects belonging to -that people should be registered; that concealment should be the forfeiture of body and the whola. estate ; that all contracts should be made in the presence of two assigned lawyers, who were Jews, two that were Christians, and two public notaries. Every Jew M'as to take an oath. Upon his roll (the Pentateuch) that he would truly, and faithfully, register all his estate, both real and personal, and discover ever3. Jew whom he should know guilty of any concealment ; as likewise all forgers, or falsi fiers of charters, and clippers of money. At this barbarous period, the king's will was the measure of every transaction ; and, upon paying generously, every enormity might claim a dispensation. Thus if a debtor to a Jew bribed the monarch, he Would order that the bond should carry no interest : and unless the Jew also subscribed something towards gratifying tiie royal broker, he would so compound the business witb'the debtor, as to make the Jew lose even his principal. In no case was a Jew allowed to sue for his debt without poundage to the king, the stated sum of which was the tenth peiiny. To exact these h- censed robberies, justices of the Jews were appointed, that the king's exchequer might not lose its accustomed influx. King John, as crafty as he was irreligious, perceiving what a rich harvest might be gathered from the Jews, if they were well attended to, in the beginning of his reign used every art to import them into his kingdom : and not only confirmed their antient privileges, but granted others. ' He allowed them a high priest, whom he stiled not only Our trusty and well beloved, but, commanded all persons to be as careful of him as they would of the king's person.' In the second year of his reign he granted them his great charter of privileges, by which they were enabled to reside S in LONDON. 373 ih his English and Norman doniinions, both freely arid ho nourably ; that they niight hold of the king all possessions and privileges as in the reign of Henry t. besides others of great extent. But the jealousy of the citizens of London having been excited by the king's extravagant favour, they offeted to the Jews so many indignities, and abused them in such a manner, that John was compelled to interfere in a parti cular manner. He wrote a menacing letter to the mayor and barons ofthe city; told them he loved them, and protected them in their rights and liberties; Wherefore he believed they retained the same affection for him, and would do every thing for his honour and the tranquillity of his kingdom : yet he could not but wonder that, since they well knew what special protection he had lately granted the Jews, that they should so little regard his peace, as to suffer them to be evil treated ; especially when other parts of the nation gave them no disturbance. Wherefore, he com manded them to take particular care how they were injured for the future ; assuring them that if any ill happened to the Jews, through their connivance, or neglect, they should be answerable : " for," says the king, <' I know full well that these insolences are committed only by the fools of the City, and it is the business of wise men to put a stop to them." But the mercy of John towards his subjects of the Jewish persuasion, proceeded solely from the property he held in them. He was angry when they were mal-treated by his subjects; but when his own interest interfered, his punctilio in their favour vanished ; and he extorted from them in the most airbitrary manner, and exercised such an absolute jurisdiction over their property, that a line can scarcely be drawn between the depredation of the king, or the sanguinary disposition of his subjects. This is suffi ciently proved by the grant of a house belonging to Isaac De Norwich, a Jew in London, to the Earl De Ferrars. In 1210, to evince in plain character, that the " tender mercy of the wicked is cruelty," the king began to draw Vol. IL No. 43. 3 B aside 374 LONDON. aside the mask ; and finding that the ingress of the Jews had ceased, he attacked the whole that he had entrap ped, and commanded all of that, nation, of both sexes, throughout England, to be imprisoned till they made discovery of their wealth ; which he appointed officers to receive in every county, and make a return into his ex chequer. Many pleaded poverty ; but as the tyrant was in earnest, be extorted confession by the most cruel tor^ ments *. To enumerate all the sufferings which the Jews under went during the reigns of Henry III. and Edward I. woidd ' take up a greater space than we are allowed. In the twenty- first year of the reign of Henry, the king issued his writ to the sheriffs of each county, commanding them f to return before him at Worcester, upon Q^in- quagesima Sunday, six of the richest Jews from every town; or two only, from such places where there were buls four : to treat with him as well concerning his own, as their benefit ; and threatening the sheriffs, that if they failed^ he would so terribly handle them,, that they should remember it as long as they lived." This we beUeve is the first in stance upon record of assembling a Jewish Parliament I The s'urprize was equally great to these poor people, when they found tliemselves constituted counsellors te -the king, after such a number of years spent ih ignominy ; more especially when Henry convened them on a Christiaji sabbath : they certainly bad no small reason to expect a royal convert in the person of this very conscientious mo' * The generality of them were deprived of one eye; and from on» Jew at Bristol, the king demanded no less than ten thousand marks ot silver, a prodigious sum in those days ; which being resolutely denied, he ordered that a tooth should be pulled, out daily till the Jew coir- sented.. The poor wretch, whose money was life to him, had the cou rage to hold out during seven operations ; then sinkiijg under the vio lence of the pain, he ransomed the remainder of his teeth at the prLsi* of the sum demanded. The whole Sum extorted from these miserably in jured people at this time amounted to above sixty thousand marks of fi\ivtr)—Matthe'w Paris, Stow, See, narch t, L0ND0N5. 375 aarch! But, whatever sanguine hopes this great, this sin» gular honour might have inspired, they soon understood from hds majesty's most gracious speech, that he wanted money— and they viust raise him money. He had called thetn together to think of ways and means, to furnish him witii Twenty Thousand Marks ! Their consternation was inexpressible ; but there was no remedy. Liberty of speeph was denied in parliament thus assembled ; they were only commanded to go to their several homes, and get hSilf the sum wanted ready by Midsummer, the remainder before Michaelmas ! The truth of history recoils at such an ini quitous transaction ; but ever just, it only states the facts as they occurred. Notwithstanding every diligence was used, considering tlie vast sum wanted, it could not possibly ,be raised within the given time. The monarch, therefore, who bad falsified his oath when the liberties and rights of his people were con cerned, in this instance strictly abided by his word. He barbarously seized upon the persons of the collectors, to gether with their wives, children, goods, and chattels. That such an inhuman transaption in a Christian coutitry should have a proper voucher. * In 12^2, the king refusing to abide by the agreement lately made with his barons at Oxford, under pretence that it was extorted frqm him, withdrew into the Tower of Lon don } and upon his threatening the citLzens for taking part with his enemies, the barons suddenly entered the city, with a great force, to its assistance : and to keep the iiibabitanta more strongly attached to their interest, gratified them with tbe slaughter of seven hundred Jews at one time ; after having plundered their houses, and burnt their new syna-" gogue. The pretence for such cruelty was, tbat one of them had wounded a Christian for refnsingto pay more than two pence per week for the loan of twenty shillings. At last Henry's necessities induced him to assign the Jews tp the Caturcensian merchants, as a security for several large * Glaus. Roll. 25. Henry III. m. 9. 3 B 2 sums 576 LONDON. sums which they had advanced ; and the king confiroied the assignment by his letters patent*. To sum up the total of their misery in this reign, upon tiie defeat and capture of Henry and his family, by the vic torious barons at the battie of Lewes, the Jews were among the sufferers ; their poverty and their bondage could not screen them from the ungovernable rabble, who, collecting together in London, attacked the houses of these unfortu nate people, under pretence that they were in a conspiracy •with the king to destroy the barons, who bad taken arms .-igainst him. They plundered them of all their property; and certainly would have put them to the sword, if the coUr stable of the Tower had not Opened the Tower gate, and hu manely admitted them into that fortress. ' But Henry was equally an enemy to all ranks of his sub jects, Christian and Israelite alike felt the effects of his op pressing hand ; though sometimes he condescended, when it served his purpose, to grant vast indulgences to the Jews* and was bountiful to tbose who had been serviceable to him in his wars. Had the Jews profited by these indulgences as they ought, and restrained themselves within due bounds, they might have conciliated themselves to the king and his subjects, and, probably, have been respected by both ; but laying aside the^r wonted circumspection, their sudden pro sperity made them guilty of the most flagrant transgres sions. They sued the dean and chapter of Lincoln, on a forged bond; they erazed and altered another bond, to prevent the king's taking possession of the goods of a Jewish convert ; but their most astonishing crime was committed at Oxford, in 1268, when, at a procession attended by the chancellor, &c. on Ascension Day, to visit the reliques of St. Frideswide, with the cross borne before them, a Jew, with the most consummate impudence, violently snatched it from tbe bearer, and trod it under his feet, in token of his contempt of Christ. To punish such an impious affront, as * The Caturcensians were so called from their chief city, formerly denoniinated Catmium, the capital of Dauphiny. ?oon LONDON. 377 soon as it was made known to the king, by Prince Edward, who happened to be then at Oxford, he caused strict search to be made after the criminal ; and when he could not be found. Commanded that all the Jews in that city should be imprisoned ; and that they should erect, at their own proper charge, in the place where the outrage was committed, a stately marble cross of perfect workmanship; and another cross of silver, gilt, which was to be carried in all future processions of the university. The first cross stood on the spot where now stands part of Merton College, Money being the king's object, and the Jews willing to become purchasers, the nation began to perceive and complain, that as that people were under no restraint in purchasing, by becoming lords of manors, they might not only be entitled to the fealty, escheats, wardship, and i^ar- riage of Christians, but even to the presentations to dnurcl* hvipgs, and possibly obtain whole baronies. A restrictive , act of parliament was therefore brought forward, whicl^ pre vented the growing evil. Their mortifications now encreased till the close of Henry's long and worthless reign. Edward I. though a friend to his Christian subjects, was ipimical to the Jews. His reign commenced with a heavy taliiage, vyhicb involved the children as well as the parents, and non-payment was changed from imprisonment to per petual banishment, and all their effects were left to the king's use, A question here arises, whether the bondage of the Jews in England, was not worse than that in Egypt .¦' In the latter they were only compelled to make brick without sfraw; in the former, they were expected to produce gold vyithout visible means! and indeed, it might almost be sus pected that they have developed the wonderful secret ; for, qnder all their oppression, they were able to lend the queen- mother no less a sum than three hundred and fifty thousand iparks. In the third year of this reign came out the famous Sta^ tutum de Judaismo, against the usury of the Jews, and or dering them to wear a badge of yellow taffctj'. They were still, however, ijnder the protection of the king. By this. statute. 37S LONDON. statute, it was thought reasonable by parliament, that a Jew should leave to his creditor something to subsist on, even to half bis substance. The hands of these people being tied up from usury, their tongues took licence to give the sta. tute their own interpretation : they vilified the Christians, and scoffed at their faith in such an unqualified manner, that the king was obhged, by iproclamation, to threaten the of fenders with loss of life and member ; and to ordain badges ef distinction for the women, as well as the men. They then betook themselves to clipping and adulterating the cur rent coin of the kingdom ; and so universally did they carry on this practice, " that, had it been suffered, says an an. tient French manuscript, tlie money of England would have been worth nothing ;" they also imported several sorts of light Qjoney from foreign countries. To remedy these disorders, Edward, who was very jea lous of every thing that related to his coin, and is supposed to have been the first of the English monarchs, who fixed its standard, caused strict enquiry to be made after the au thors of- this mischief. The general suspicion fell upon the Jews, and therefore the king commanded all that were in the kingdom to be seized in one day, on the 7.th of November 1279; and, after full conviction, two hundred and eighty> both mep and women, received sentence of death in Lon don alone, which was executed on them without mere}-; many were imprisoned, and the records of this year abound with instances of grants and sales of lands and houses for feited on this occasion. Profiting by this example, the common people considered themselves entitled to their share of the spoils, and this they endeavoured to effect by threats of pro.secution ; but the king, satisfied with the ven geance he had already taken, ordered all prosecutions' to pease from a certain time. The next persecutors of the Jews were the Dominican friars, who having instilled a notion into the king's mind, that by their persuasive arguments they could convert the Jews, provided they were compeUed to resort to church ; Edward, to forward such a pints purpose, ordered his she riffs, LONDON. 3:9 riflfe, bailiffs, &c. to use such persuasions to the Jews as the spirit of truth might inspire them witli, to come to the temples of Christian worship ; this, in process of time, was the cause of the foundation of a house of converts in Chan- eery Lane, called The Rolls, The great body of the Jews however continuing in their obstinacy, or rather being so impoverished, that they could not supply the extravagancies of their superiors, were, for their crucifixions, emasculations, breaking of crosses, blas pheming, false coining, forgei'ies, and a vast catalogue of imputed crimes, in 1290, for ever banished the kingdom, and all their estates seized for the king's use- When we revise this last transaction, though it teems with injustice and robbery, we cannot but consider it as mer ciful when compared with the persecution thase miserable objects ©f hatred, suffered in the present and preceding reigns, John S^eed, on this occasion, in his History of Great Britain, otiserves, " King Edward banished the Jews out of his realm, on account of their having eaten his people to the bones; nol neglecting therein his particular gains." After this banishment, we heai very Hltie of these people till the time of Oliver Croniwell, when an attempt was madfc to re-introduee them into England. The necessities of Charles II. however, completed the business, and tbe Jews, with very Httle interruption, have formed a great part of British subjects to the present day. The times of prejudice, of persecution, and of suspi cion, have vanished ; and been replaced by confidence, toleration, and loyalty. None have more amply ex perienced their effects than the Jevvs, and none have repaid better. They enjoy immense riches by lawful merchandize, which they liberally dispense towards the exigences of go vernment ; they extend their charities alike to their own per suasion, and to Christian establishments ; and, except wiih respect to religious persuasion, they are useful members of a generous empire, which they willingly help to support, and by which they are equally protected., Ia 330 LONDON. In Loudan they have several synagogues arid burial places, the principal of which are those belonging to the Portuguese in Bevis Marks, and to the Germans in Duke's Place. Tli£ first is a neat structure, eighty feat long, and fifty broad, handsomely wainscoted, and standing due east and west. In the centre of the building is placed the desk? ascended by several steps, where the appointed priests read the service, and pronounce the law. The east wall is railed, and contains tbe 'Sanctum Sanctorum, or sacred vo lumes, which are taken out and replaced with great cere mony and devotion. Over this, on tbe wall, are painted in Hebrew characters, without points, the law of the Ten Commandments. From the cieling are suspended seven large' branches, besides other lights within the building. The seats for the men are benches: with backs, under which are lockers with keys, containing their several articles of devotion ; and above are latticed galleries for the women. The whole structure is contrived in a plain inoffensive manner. In both synagogues the following prayer for the king, in Hebrew and English, is worthy of notice : " May God, who gives Victory unto Kings, and Dominion unto Princes, whose Kingdom is an everlasting Kingdom, may He who delivereth his Servant David from the hurtful Sword, who maketh a Way" in the Sea, and a Path in mighty Water, bless, preserve, protect, assist, magnify, and advance on high, our Sovereign Lord King George III. Her Majesty, &c, " May He, who is the King of Kings, mercifully guard them and protect theu invaluable lives, delivering them out of all straits anil dangers. " May Almighty God, the King of Kings, in His mercy exal and render him glorious, and eminent, and prolong his days in his kingdom. " May the King of Kings, and Lord of Lords, in His great Mercy, put into the Heart of the King, and into the" Hearts of his Lords and Counsellors, tender Compassion towards us, that they may deal kindly with u.% and with all Israel, our brethren. — Amen." The LONDON. , 381 •The synagogue bplonging to the German Jews, was a sub- atantiaj building ; but Having been taken down and rebuilt, in consequence pf a ha^ldsomp legacy left for that purpose by a lady pf ipp^^ense property, it was finished about the year 1790, in a very superb and expensive manner. The hviUdi^ is of brick, with a roof supported by massy "^ stone pijlars ; s,)i,^ is furqished simJ'^i'ly to the former, ex cept that j^i^epe tl?f utmost magnificence Is exhibited. From the cieling are suspended seven modern highly finished brass l^ra^c^es, of peculiarly excellent workmansl^ip, and must have cost considerable sums. Indeed the whole building is wejl worthy inspection ; and tlie beholder is always treated by the co^regalion with eivjlity and respect. So that on a Efiiday .evenipg, at J,he comajenqement of the Sabbath, it is ^ treat of vast gratification to bear the solemn chants and service ; whi^h^ added: to the (out ensemble, renders a visit tp this temple .of worship very interesting, more .especially as the whqie religious economy of the Jews, is so eminently conducted by the superintendence of the reverend doSor Solomon Hiach^l, tj^e higji priest, and l^is very re spected patrpns, Bewjamin and Asbaham Goldsmtd, jEsquires ; wjtiose names are prpimment in every beneV'olent, every charitable, and every loyal undertaking. In the /frppt of ,thig b,pildin,g, over the porch, is a largp hall, purposely appointed Jor tlie cejetfrarion of the wed dings of poor Je.w5. Tjhis contract is heW pf such high im- porta,nce ftmong tbe^e peoj^le^ that its celebration is accom panied jl^y, the pa.pst,extJ^a,va^aiit,feastiqgs; and that, in such a solemnity, the poor classes may not appear uncomfort able, the .whole society, by subscription, ordain the festival in this hall. Returning up Shoemaker Row to Aldgate, on the oppo site side of the way, is Poor Jewry Street ; probably so called from the resort of the necessitous sons and daughters of Israel, who remained in the outskirts of the City, after the banishment of their brethren. Here is a chapel, for the use of persons of the Methodist persuasion. Vol. il No, 43, 3 C At 382 LONDON. At the corner of Houndsditch is Sir John Cass's schools- This gentleman was alderman of this ward, sheriff, and twice representative for the city in parliament. In the year 1709 he built, at his own expence, in his life time, two schools for the use of the charity children belonging to Portsoken ward. These schools were opened in 1710, and a sermon preached in the church of St. Botolph, on the oc casion, by Sir William Dawes, archbishop of York, in the presence of sixteen noblemen, and forty members of par liament, who had assembled to do honour to the founder of such a noble institution. From the unfortunate circumstance of Sir John Cass dy ing with the pen in his hand, before he had completed his good intention by will ; and the intricacies occasioned by accomptants and attornies employed, this excellent charity had nearly been annihilated, had not Sir Crispe Gascoyne, developed the seeming obscurities, and ultimately caused the charity to be reconfirmed by a decree in chancery; he might, therefore, be properly deemed a second founder. On the 12th of July 1748, the trustees, under this con firmation, held their first general meeting ; and thus was a foundation, the largest and best of the kind, the royal foun dation of Christ's Hospital excepted, rescued from ruin : it has for its support a real estate, between 400 and 500/. per annum ; and the interest of a personal estate, of 5000/. Another school belonging to this parish is situated near Tower Hill, and is called Starling's school, from its founder, SirSainuel Starling, formerly alderman of Portsoken ward. ST. LONDON. 38 J ST. BOTOLPH, ALD^GATE- THIS saint, according to the Britannia Sancta, wa» of noble English-Saxon extraction, whilst Christianity was in its infancy in these realms. Haying travelled for improve ment, he returned to his native country, where he led a monastic life, aud died highly respected. Few British saints seem to have been more revered by the antient in habitants of this island. Botolph's Town (now Boston) in Lincolnshire ; and Botolph's Bridge (now Bottie Bridge) in Huntingdonshire, took their names from him; and besides the famous priory at Colchester, no less than four churches in London are dedicated to his honour. The first church is supposed to have been buih about the time of William L; and in 1418, Mr, Robert Bereford, aa eminent bell-founder in the parish, caused an aisle, dedi. cated to St. Catharine, a chapel to the Virgin Mary, and a new steeple to be made, agreeably to his will ; though Stow says, tbat the principal part of the church was rebuilt by the prior and convent of the Holy Trinity. It, however, 3 C 2 became 384 LONDON. became so ruinous, that an act passed for erecting the pre sent structure, which was finished in 1744 ; and. Contrary to custom, standing north And south. It is built with brick, and is a plain massy structure, and consists of a body of regular shape, a losty steeple, formed of a tower, with rather a heavy spire. Its greatest orna ment is a bold rustic with which it is strengthened at the corners ; within the tower are eight bells. The interior of the church is well ornamented^ and has a good organ. The " altar is very handsome, and ornamented to imitate por phyry ; above, are pictures of tbe Holy Family, and the Annunciation. ' The monuments of greatest nOte, are as foljow. In the vestibule, thus inscribed : Here lyeth Thomas Lord Dai-cy of the North *, and sometime of the Order of the Garter ; Sir Nicholas Carew, Knight of (he Garter f ; Lady Elizabetfi Cairew, Daughter to Francis Brian,; and Sir Arthur Darcy, younger Son to the said Lord Darcy ; and Lady Mary his dear Wife, Daughter of iJit-Nieholas Carew, who had ten Sons and five daughters, &c. Against a pillar on the south side Of the nave of the chUrch, a monument, with the following inscription i Before this Pillar lyeth the Body of Robert Dow, Citizen and Merchant TsyTor of London, with Lettice his Wife, and Thomas his Son ; which Robert deceased the 2d day of May 1612. His Age was 89 years; who among other his Charities done in this City, and elsewhere sundry ways, as to several Hospitals abroad, and athome, Prisons, and to 19 poor Housholders of the Merchant Taylors Company iri perpet'uuitt, gave to this Parish of St. Botolph's (whereof he was a Member) the Nomination of two Alms-women • Thomas, Lord Parcy of the North, knight of the Garter, whh s&. veral of his family, were beheaded for high treason on Tow'er HiH, on 4he 20th of June, 30 Henry VIII. f Sir Nicholas Carew, knight of the Garter, and master ofthe horse to the same king, was beheaded on Tower Hill, January 9, in that year, with Henry Courtenay, marquis of Exeter ; the alledged crim^ Vi^s, the ti^itorous cndeavqur to promote R'egi'nald Pole tp the crown. •freely LONDON. 38« ftreely telieved, and Twenty pounds yearly to be distrHiutGd lo threescore poer aged and impotent Men and WomeHj by Nobl*» apiece upon every St. Thomds's £ - - - - -j To the Parish of St. Leonards ih Shoreditch. to the Use ofl .q_ the Poor there, 106/. 15s. and 4d. - - - - J To the Company of Vintners .... - 10 To the Poor of Christ's Hospital - - . . 5 Hb deceased the ISth day of Apiil, Anno Dom. ifi06. .^tat suse 63. We feav^e before mentioned, utider the monastery of St. Clare, iMinories, concerning Dr. Clark, bishop of Bath and Wells, said to have been buried here. Monuments of modern date are to the memoiy of the Re verend Michael Haffingis, late secretary to the Society for the pitoTftiotion of Christian Knowledge, 1786. Maria Hallifax, wife Of Dr. Benjamin Hallifax, Gresham professor of Di vinity; 1802. • We shall have occasion to mention this.gentleman'» othpr charitie*, under the- article Newgate* -„, 5 The Ssff LONDON. t The living is a curacy ; the impropriator being held in fee fVpm the crown. Among the curates, the most eminent were Dr. White Kennet,- afterwards bishop of Peterborough. Eastward, the street now forming the High Street, was formerly' a road with a few houses and inns, for the enter tainment of travellers, and the city liberties ended at a place then called HQg Lane. In this lane and the fields adjoining, hogs were allowed to be nourished by the bakers of London, whence the name. Here, in Stow's time, were " fair hedge rows of elm trees on each side, with bridges and easy stiles, to pass over into the pleasant fields, very commodious for citizens therein to walk, shoot, I and otherwise to recreate and refresh their dulled spirits in the sweet and wholesome air ; which is now, says he, within few years, made a continual building through, out of garden-houses and small cottages, and the fields on either side are turned into garden-plats, timber-yards, bond ing allies, and such like, from Houndsditch in the'west, so far as Whitechapel, and farther in the east." This plot is now covered by the pleasant streets and alleys of Petticoat Lane, and its cfean^ neighbourhood. Curious^ however, and singular as it may appear, this spot was formerly the habitation of great men ; and we have the authority of the ingenious Mr, MoGcr, for saying that in Petticoat Lane was the town residence of the stately count Gondamar, ambassador from Spain, and the cause of Sir Walter Raleigh's death in the reign of James I. ?'Nurtured in a nation which had," says Mr, M. *< all that chivalrous dignity-, those heightened notions of honour, that Moorish gallantry left to Spain when it receded,,, com bined with -thsit splendid enthusiasm which the torrent of Mexican riches then just poured upon it, produced. Count Gondamar is said to have been dazzled and impressed with the magnificence of his own country, and to have brought with him to this all those ideas of state and grandeur which bis close connexion with the contemplators of visionary worlds and the possessors of realms of gold might be supposed to inspire. Having LONDON. 387 • "Having stated this to be the character of the representative of the Spanish monarch, I could hardly have supposed that the metropoHs had init a palace fit for his reception ; yet we have it from unquestionable authority, that he did find a mansion. The reader will hardly conjecture where ? and be surprised when he is informed, \n Petticoat Lane. " It is certain, that in a branch from the long avenue (Petti coat Lane), which leads from the high street Whitechapel to Smock Alley, called Gravel Lane, and which was formerly bounded with hedge-rows and elm-trees, aijd had, on both sides of the way, " very pleasant fields to walk in, insomuch that gentlemen used to have houses there," stood, till within these last twenty years, a very large quadrangular mansion, which had had court-yards, gates, and all otiier appendage* of state, and in which once resided that august personage Count Gondamar, whose name it retained till its final dilapi dation. Tradition says, it had formerly been occupied by the Earl of Essex. In the Interregnum, it was possessed by CrOmwell's soldiers, probably to communicate with the gar rison in Houndsditch, and ultimately with the Tower, and to assist in having an eye to the eastern side of the city. " Latterly it was let out in tenements ; its gardens covered" with mean cottages and sheds ; and its once, I presume, mag nificent apartments inhabited by a colony of the children of Ifrael, much more remarkable for the cunning than the can dour of their dealings. " Some years since, the East India compaii)' purchased this spot, which had long been a public nuisance, and erected upon it those magnificent warehouses, vvhich extend fromi the new street, Bishopsgate, to Cutler's Street, Hounds ditch, &c. " Petticoat Lkne itself is still inhabited by Jev/s, who hav ing always an eye to traffic, have established in it a Rag- fair, which seems intended to rival Rosemary Lane. Indeed^ I fear, its situation affords facilities for thp disposal of stolen and ill acquired goods. Therefore, as I understand that the East India company have for some time had an extension of their warehouses in contemplation, and had once almost agreed 38S LONDON. agreed for that part of ^s wretched place which is in the parish of Christ Chiirch, Middlesex, it is devoutly to b? ¦wished, if there are any persons so inimical to their own interests, the interests of the parish, of morality, of society in general, as to withhold their sanction, after the truly li beral offers that have been made, that legislative authority would interfere to correct an error which cannot arise from any thing short of insanity ; and, at the same time that they enabled the said company to complete tfieir noble and ne cessary plan, they would remove and extirpate one of the greatest nuisances, whether considered in point of morals or health, that at present exists in tbe metropolis. " Strvpe, THE hbtorian's, HOUSE. — Before I take a final leave of Petticoat Lane, whigh were it not to shew the reader that such things were and are, I ought to apologize for lead ing him into, I must observe, that on the opposite side of the way, and ivitiiin sight of count Gondamaj-'s, stood an other, large house, formerly occupied by Hans Jacobsoti, jeweller to king James the First ; it was in a paved alley, called, from the ancestors ctf the historian, Strype's Court, now, in the phraseology of the place, termed " Tripe'^ Yard;" part of it still remains. It had formerly gardens be hind it, and was said to havebeen, withrespeS to its sitp- ation, exceedingly pleasant. •' In this house, John Strype, that exemplary divine, in dustrious biographer, and ingenious historian,, was born. He has, in several parts of his works, left notices of this, th? place of his nativity, which we find in his most early years, which must have been -soon after the middle ofthe seventeenth century, was very different from what it has lately been,, and is at present. He died in the year 1737, at a very advanced age, having held the vicarage of Low Lay- ton near sixty-eight year.s. This Strype's, or Tripe's Yard, takes its name from the house in which his farther and him self resided ; but is now, like Petticoat Lane, tbe resort of ihe lowest order of Jews." * * Vestiges, &c. Europ, Mag. March 1804. ' Part LONDON. 389 Part of the street from Aldgate Is occupied on the south side by butchers, and is called, Whitechapel Market. Returning to St. Botolph's church, through Church Row, we come to Houndsditch. This was fornierly a ditch, which took its name from being the receptacle for dead dogs and other filth. It was, how ever, if not dignified, remarkable, as being the deserved place of burial for tbe traiterous noble, Edric, the murd^er of his sovpreign Edmund Ironside, in favour of Canute..*— " I like the treason," observed the latter, " but I detest tbe traitor !" and in consequence of this opinion, when Edric came to demand the wages of his iniquity, which had been promised to be the highest situation in London; "behead the traitor !" says Canute, " and agreeably to his desire, place his head oh the highest part of the Tower !" He was then drawn by his heels from Baynard's Castle, and tormented to death by burning torches ; his head exposed as directed, and his body, thrown into Houndsditch.* On the side of this ditch, opposite the city wall, was.a field belonging to the priory of the Holy Trinity ; which being given upon tjie dissolution to Sir Thomas Audley, was conferred by him on Magdalen College, Cahibridge, of Which he was the founder. Towards the street were small cottages, two stories high, with little garden plats ; these cottages were built by a prior of tlie Holy Trinity, and was appointed for the reception of bed-rid people, who, when past labour, solicited the benefi cence of the humane. " In my youth," says Stow, " I remember, deVout people, as well men as women of this city, were accustomed often times, especially on Fridays, weekly, to walk tbat way pur posely, and there to bestow their charitable alms, every poor man or woman lying in their bed within their window, which was towards the street open, so low, that every man might. see them, a clean linen cloth lying in their window, and a pair of beads, to shew that there lay a bed rid body, unable out to pray only. This street was first paved in 1503." * Richard of Ciirencester. Vol. IL No. .44. 3D Here 390 LONDON. Here afterwards was a foundery for brass ordnance, built about the latter end of the reign of Henry VIII. by three ¦brothers of the name of Owen. .This foundery took up great part of the field, the other being occupied by a gar dener, who. formed it into garden ground. This profitable ¦concern was destructive to the poor bed-rid people and their humble habitations ; the first were scattered, and their dwel lings levelled with the ground. In the last year of the reign of Edward VI. many pleasant houses for respectable citizens, with appropriate gardens, began to be erected. This neighbourhood, however, even at this period, was notorious for a nuisance, which is the curse of all well-in tended communities.. ',' It is fatal," remarks our antient city historian, " to the suburbs of every great city to be infected with some foul and unclean birds, that there build their nests, although not with professed and ignominious stain of lewd life; because within the limits of Houndsditch dwell, many a good and honest citizen, that will never endure such a scan dalous neighbourhood : Yet there are crept in among them a base kind of vermin,' well deserving to be ranked and: num bered with them, whom our old prophet and countryman, Gyldas, called Aitatis atramentum, the black discredit of the age,, and of the place where they were suffered to live : or rather, as St. Bernard thinks it more convenient to- term them, Bdptisatos Judteos, baptized Jews, who take them selves to be christians, when they are worse indeed than the Jews ever were for usury. " These men, or rather monsters in the shape of men', , pro fess to live by lending, and yet vvill lend nothing but upon pawns; neither to any, but unto poor people only, and. for no less gain than after fifty or three-score pounds in the hun dred. The pawn of the poor borrower must needs be more than double worth the money lent upon it, and the time of limitation is no longer than a month, althoifgh they well know, that the money needs not to be repaid back until a twelvemonth's end ; by which time the interest grows to be so great, that the pawn, which, at the first, was better than Kwice worth the money borrowed on it, doth not in the end, prove LONDON. 391 prove to be valuable as the debt, which must be paid be fore the poor party can redeem it ; by whicb extorting means of proceeding, the poor borrower is quite cheated of his pawn, for less than, the third part, which it was truly worth. " It is a great error, in my poor opinion, that in so an tient and famous a city, abounding, otherwise, in most Christian alms and works of mercy, among so many worthy lib ;ra] ities bestowed upon the poor in divers and distinct pa rishes, no order is taken for such a public stock for the truly poor, that, when in their urgent necessity, either by want of means, sickness, or other hindrances, their pawns may not go to the cUt-tbroat usurer, but remain to their own .good, living or dying, or to theirs, without any other be nefit, than that it may still serve for the like relief. " And let me not here be mistaken, that I condemn such as live by honest buying and selling, and make a conscience of their dealing- no, truly, I mean only tbe Judas broker, that lives by the bag ; and, except God be more merciful to him, vvill follow him that did bear the bag." On tlie south side of Houndsditch, a small street leads to Bevis Marks. Here formerly stood the city mansion and gardens of the abbot of St. Edmund's Bury ; which, from that circumstance, occasioned it to be called Bury^s, cor ruptedly, Bevis Marks. This house being demolished, th^ ground was laid out in buildings, and now forms Bury Street, the synagogue of the Portuguese Jews, arid a Dis senting meeting, which is rendered famous by being the place of which the elegant, ingenious, and pious Dr. Isaac Watts, was, for many'years pastor. Further on, towards Camomile Street, stood tbe Papey, a religious house belonging to a brotherhood of St. John the' Evangelist, and St. Charity; founded in 1430, by William Oliver,, William Barnaby, and John Stafford, chantry- priests in London, for a master, two wardens, &c. chap lains, chantry priests, conducts, and other brethren and sisters, that should be admitted into the church of St. Au gustine P^pey in the Wall. 3 D g The 39 ff LONDON. The brethren of this house becoming lame, or otherwise into great poverty, were relieved ; and had a chamber, with a certain allowance of bread, drink, and coals, and one old man and his wife to see them served, and keep the house clean. This brotherhood, among many others, was dissolved in the reign of Edward VI. and was afterwards used as a resi dence by Sir Francis Walsingham, secretary of state to Queen Elizabeth. In a small passage opplosite, leading to Devonshire Square, is a MEETING HOUSE belonging to the religious society of Friends, usually denominated Quakers. Similar to all other places of worship belonging to this respectable class of tbe community, the place is distinguishable for its plain, unadorned state of neatness ; and the numerous assemblage of the Friends which attend the worship, are remarkable for the unaffected simplicity of their deportment. Some of the principal doctrines held by this class of re ligious worship are, that God hath given to all men super natural light, which, being obeyed, can save them ; and that this life is Christ ; that tbe hfe ought ;to be regulated ac cording to this fight, without which no man or woman is capable of understanding the Holy Scriptures, which they believe were given by the inspiration of God, and are to be preferred to all other writings extant in the world ; and do own them to be a secondary and subordinate rule of faith and practice, but the light and spirit of God, they believe is the primary rule ; because the Holy Scriptures were given forth by, and do receive all their authority from, the Holy Spirit, but a measure or manifestation of the Spirit, is given to every one, that they may profit; that in worship, men and women ought to wait in the silence of all flesh, to receive immediately from the Lord, before they open their mouths, either in prayer to the Almighty, or in testimony to the people ; that all superstitions and ceremonies of mere human institution in religion, ought to be laid aside ; as also in civil societ)', such as saluting one another, by the pulling off the hat, bowing, courtesying, and saying ^^ou instead of thou, to a single person, &c. j that men and women ought to LONDON. 393 to be plain and grave in their apparel, sober andt just in their whole conversation, and, at a word, in all their, deal ings ; not to swear or fight, or bear any carnal wieaponS' foff that end, but to love 'one another and do good, as much' a»- in their pOwer. • . Devonshire ¦ Square, occupies what was originally ' a single house, with pleasure gardens, howling greens, &c. formed by Jasper Fisher, one of the six* clerks in chan- (jery, a justice of peace, and a freeman of the Goldsmith's pompany. Tbe mansion, so largely and elegantly con- stru9:ed by a inan of no property or figure in life, ,ob- tained it the name Of Fisher's FoUy ; and the folloiwing rhyme, celebrated this and other absurdities of the times : " Kirkebie's castl'e, and Fisher's Folly, Spinola's pleasure, and Megs'* glopy." After the ruin of its vain projector, it had a quick suc cession of owners; among others Edward, Earl of Oxford, lord high chamberlain to Queen Elizabeth, who is recorded to have presented to that queen the "first perfumed gloves brought to England, resided here; and it is probable, that during the time he held it, her majesty lodged here in one of her visits to tbe City. It fell from him to the noble family of Cavendish ; William, the second earl of Devonshire, died in it abouttheyear 1628. This family had, however, resided inthe neighbourhood for many years ; for it appears tbat Thomas Cavendish, treasurer of the Exchequer to Henry VIII. bu ried his lady in St. Botolph's, the parish church ; and by will, he bequeathed a legacy for its repair. During the time of the Civil Wars, the hopse was formed into a cop- venticle, wbich Butler alludes to, when speaking of "the packed' parliament," in the following lines : " That represents, no part o'th' nation. But Fisher's Folly congregation *." From the title of this noble family, the square as sumed its present name. It is of small dimensions, but has * Hudlbras, Canto ii. line 893. .See also Dr. Nash's Notes on Hu- dibrasii. 417. several 39* LONDON. several good hoUses. In the north west corner is a large house, whifih was formerly the residence of Sir Samuel Dash- wood, lord mayor of London, 1703. *:.It is recorded in the register of St. Botolph, Bishopsgate, that Edward Alleyn, the benevolent founder of Dulwich College, was born near Devonshire House in 1566, near where Sir Francis Baring has bis present residence. Je remiah Collier, who was an enemy to plays and players, has yet the justice to term Alleyn the Roscius of his age ; and " that as be out-acted others in his life, so at his death, (alluding to his extensive charities) he out-did himself" New Street is occupied by very large, and seemingly the most extensive of the East India warehouses ; as they cover a space of nine acres of ground, and reach hence to Houndsditch: They are appointed for the reception of goods for Private Trade, which are of such importance, "that a militarj'' guard is kept on the premises every night. The Old Artillery Ground was a. short way north east of Devonshire Square, This was originally a spacious field, called Teazel Close, from itS being planted with teazles for the use of clothworkers. It was afterwards let to cross bow makers, who used to shoot there ; but being at, length inclosed with a brick wall, it afterwards was used as an ar tillery ground, to which the gunners of the Tower resorted every Thursday, when they levelled brass pieces of artillery against a butt of earth raised for that purpose. " The last prior of St. Mary Spital granted to the gun ners of the. Tower this artillery ground for thrice ninety nine years, for the use and practice of great and small ar tillery ; and king Henry VIIL gave the company a charter. Hence this artillery ground became subject to the Tower; the streets, &c. compose one of the Tower Hamlets, and the inhabitants are still summoned on juries belonging to the courts held on Tower Hill. " In the year 1585,. the city being put to great trouble' and expence by the continual musters and training of sol diers, some brave and active citizens, who had obtained ex perience both at home and abroad, voluntarily exercLsed themselvesj LONDON. 395 themselves, and trained up Others in the use of arm^, so that within two years there were almost three hundred mer chants, and other persohs bf distinction, qualified to teach the common soldiers the management of their guns, pilces, and halberts, as vvell as to march and countermarch. These met every Thursday, each person by turns bearing office from the corporal to the captain, and some of these gentle men had the honour of having a body of forces under their command at the great camp at Tilbury, in the year 1588, when the Spaniards sent against England their pretended invin cible Armada, and these commanders were generally called Captains of the Artillery Garden. " This noble exercise became afterwards discontinued for along time, but was renewed in the year 1610, when' sc- vpral gentlemen having obtained the permission of king James I. undertook at their private expence a weekly ex ercise in the same artillery ground, and in the jrear 16^2, erected an armoury, in which they placed five hundred sets of arms, of extraordinary beauty and workmanship. The Artillery Company now greatly increased, and the people resorted to the artillery ground to learn to defend them sehes and their country ; and even many gentlemen from every county went to learn martial- exercises, in order to teach them to superintend the inilitia, in the distant parts of the kingdom. " At length the company being so much increased that this artillery ground was scarcely able to contain them, for they amounted to aboiit six thousand : they removed to the New Artillery Ground near the upper end of Moorfields, where they still continue to assemble." ' Further down is Union Street, a very excellent modern improvement, forming a grand line of communication from Spital Fields church to Smithfield. Near this place, vvas antiently the priory and hospital of St. Mary, called St. Mary Spital, founded by Walter- Brune, sheriff of London, and Roisia, his wife. The first stone was laid, by Walter, archdeacon of London, in the year 1197; its boundaries were from Berward's Lane (near S9§ LONDO^J. (near Widegate Alley) towards the south, aind extending in breadth to the parish of St. Leonard, Shoreditch, towards the north ; in length it reached from King Street (or the High Street of Bishopsgate Without) on the west, to the bishop of London's field, called Lollesworth (now Spital Fields) on the east. This hospital was endowed with several lands and tene ments. Edward I. by charter gave, for the repose of his fioul, to the prior and convent, several churches and lands in the dioCese of Winton, A part of tbe large churcb-yard belonging to the hos pital, but separated by a brick wall, was remaining in Stow's time, in which Was a pulpit cross, similar to that in St. Paul's church yard ; adjoining was built a house, which was appointed for the lord mayor, aldermen,' and corporation of London, where they were seated to hear, sermons preached during the Easter holidays. It appears it was Usual in those times, that on Giod Friday ia divine of eininence should, by appointment, expatiate on Christ's Passion, in a sermon at Paul's Cross; ort the three days next Easter, Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, a bishop, a dean, and a doctor of divinity, should preach at the Spital concerning the Resurrection ; and on Low Sunday another learned divine was to rehearse the substance of the other four in a fifth sermon. At these the lord mayor and cor poration always attended, robed in violet gowns, on Good Fnday and Easter Wednesday ; and, on tbe other days, in scarlet. This custom continued till the Great Rebellion in 1642, when it was discontinued; however, it was revived after the Restoration, except that instead of being preached at Paul's Cross, which ' had been demolished, the sermons were in the choir of the cathedral. After the Great Fire,- they were discontinued both at .St. Paul's chm'ch, and at the Spital, andthe Easter sermons were delivered at some ap pointed, church ; and at last at St. Bridget, in Fleet Street, where they continued 'invariably till the late repairs of that church, when they were removed to Christ Church, Newgate Street, where they still continue. ¦s The J '831 '¦^,, QQ I l» ^1' 'I . - 1 ,i life ' v.— r Win,- ill I ill ^^m l/,M./,„t /.f , /://r„//,\,/. in . „, //,,„.//,//, /^, ¦ " the first gentleman of the age, for his woirth in learning, arts', and warfare." A fine monumfiiit to tbe memory of Sir Thomas Gresham. On the north wall, near the east end of the church, a , handsome black and white marble monument, of the Ionic prder, with enrichments of seraphims, festoons,. &c. with a long Latin; inscription in gold letters to the memory of William Finch, E?q-. - ' On the north wallj a little westward -from the last, au old spacious marble monument, adorned with three columns, entablature and pediment; and under the cornice of the west arch, the carved figures of a man and seven children in a kneeling posture, and those of t\yo women under the east arch ; with this inscription : I am sure that niy Redeemer liveth ; and that I shall rise out of the Earth in the latter day ; that, I shall be cloathed again with this '> skin ; and see God in my flesh ; yea, I my self shall behold hira not with other, but with, those sam<5 eyes. Here lyeth the Body^of William Boad, Alderman, and .some time Sheriff of London ; a Merchant- Adventurer, and inost famous in his age for his gte»t Adventures both by Sea and Land. Obiit 30 of May, 1576. Flos Mereal^rHm, quns terra iBrittanna creavit, Ecce sub hoc Tumulo Gulielmus Bimdus hunuUur, Jllc Mari muliil^n pfissici per Saxa per Undas i'itatit Patrias Pcregrinis tfiercibm oras . . Mapnanimum LONDON. 425 Magaanimum Graci mirantitr Jasona mfes Aiirea de gelido retuKt, quia vellerf phasi, Grtgcia docta tace, Graii concedite vales, Hicjacet ArgoHco Mer.cator Jasone Major, Vellera multa tulit, magis aurea vellere Phrixi, Et/reta multa scidit magis ardua phasidos i^dis : Hei mihi quod nuUo mors est superabilis auro Flos Mercat'orum Gulielmus Bondus kutnatur.. On the north side of the church, a spacious black and white marble monument, adorned with columns, entabla ture and pediment, of the Corinthian order; also the figures of himself reposing in his tent, attended by soldiers, and a servant waiting with his horse ; this inscription in gold cha racters : Memorite Sacrum. Near this place resteth the Body of the worthy Citizen and Soldier, Martin Bond, Esq; Son of William Bond, Sheriff and Alderman of London. Hewas Captain, in the Year 1588, at the Camp at Tilbury, and after remained chief Captain of the Trained Bands of this City until his death. He was a Merchant Adven turer, and free of the Company of Haberdashers ; he lived to the Age of 85 years, and died in May 1643. His Piety, Prudence, Courage, and Charity, have left behind hifa a never dying Monument. 2uam prudens hie Miles erat quam nobile pectus Noverunt Friaceps, Patria, Casira, Duces, Civi quanta fuit pietus, quam larga manusq j . Pauperis agnoscunt viscera Templa Toga. Miles hie S( Civis qualem vix Millibas unum Scecla referre queant nee meminisse parem, Patruo bene Merito Gulielmus Bond Armiger posuit. On the north side, and near the west end of the churcli, a very spacious marble monument, ^vith columns and en tablature, of the Corinthian order ; also two ar9hes, uodur the westward of which are the figures of the deceased and nine children ; and Under the eastward those of his wife and seven daughters, all in a kneeling posture, with the fol lowing inscription : , Within this monument lyeth the Earthly Parts of John Robinson, Merchant of the Staple in England, free of the Merchant Taylors, and 426 LONDON. and sometime Alderman of London ; and Christian bjis Wife, eldest Daughter of Thomas Anderson, Grocer. They spent to gether in Holy Wedlock 36 years, and were happy (besides other worldly Blessings) in 9 Sons and 7 Daughters. She changed her mortal Habitation for a Heavenly, on the 24th of April 1592, her Husband following her on the 19th of Feb. 1599. Both much be4 loved in their lives, and more lamented at their deaths ; especially by the Poor, to' whom their good Deeds (being alive) begot many PrSyers, now being dead, many Tears. The Glass of his Life Jield 70 Years, and then ran out. To live long and happy Is an Honour, but to die happy a greater Glory ; both these aspired to both. Heaven, no doubt, hath their Souls, and this House of Stone their Bodies, where they sleep in Peace till the Summons of a glorious Resurrection awakens them. Near this is a grave stone, with an inscription on a brass plate : Here underneath lyeth the Body of Elizabeth Robinson, Wife of John Robinson, and Daughter of Sir Richard Rogers, of the County of Dorset, Knight, who had Issue one Son and a Daughter, and died the 23d of October 1600. Christ is my Life, Ceath Is my Gain ; My Body sleeps in hope to reign. Thrice happy Change It is for me. From Earth to Heav'n remov'd to be. Elizabeth Robinson. Here are also several plated grave stones. Among the modern monuments, are the following : ' Walter Bernard, Esq. alderman and sheriff of London, died 1746, aged fifty- one years. Richard Backwell, Esq. son of alderman Backwell, lyho was mined in his propert}' by Charles II, Peter Gausson, Esq. and family. Major-general George Kellum, who served with great ho nour under William III, and John Duke of Marlborough. Died 1732, aged seventy-three, &e. Here also is the monument of Francis Bancroft, who, in the state of a lord mayor's carver, or such like office, in a course of years, by oppression, usury, and living upon people deceived by his great promises to remember them liberally LONDON. 42' liberally in his will, amassed 28,000/. and upwards, for- got his promises,' neglected his poor relations, and left all his fortune, after a few annuities were expired, in trust to the Drapers' Compariy, to found and maintain an alms house and a school at Mile End, and to keep this his mo nument in good and substantial repair ; within which he is embowelled and embalmed, in a chest or box, made with a lid to fall down, with a pair of hinges without any fasten ing ; and a piece of square glass in the lid just over his fiice. . It is a very plain monument, nearly square ; and has a door for the sexton, on certain occasions, to go in and clear it from dust and cobwebs ; but the keys of the iron rails' about the monument, and of the vault door, are kept by the clerk ofthe Drapers' Company. The minister had twenty shil lings for preaching a sermon once a year in commemora tion of Bancroft's charities; on which occasion the alms men and scholars attended at church, and were, by the will of the founder, entertained with a good dinner at some neighbouring pubhc house. The sexton had forty shillings a year for keeping the monument clear of dust*. At the entrance to the Square are the almshouses founded by Sir Andrew Jud, for six poor men, or women, and en dowed with 10/. per annum, out of which each person was to .¦Jeceive a weekly allowance of Id. and the surplus to be laid * It iji-worthy of remark that thi^ Bancroft, by informations and sum moning the citizens before the lord mayor, upon the most triSing pcca- Jisns, and other means not belonging to his office, pillaged both rich and poor, the former of whem, rather than lose time in appearing before the niagistrates, gave money to get rid of this pest of the citizens; these nieans, in addition to the numerous quarterages he obtained from the ¦brokers, &c. enabled him to amass considerable sums of money. But by these and other mercenary practices, he so incurred the haired and ill will of rhe citizens of ail ranks, tha: the persons who attended his ¦funeral obsequies, with great difficulty saved the corpse from the indig nation of the earaged populace. Whatever might have been Ban croft's idea of the metempsichosis, he had entertained a notion that he should return to life within a giveti period ; and therefore had given the above particular directions concerning his tomb and coffin. The time arrived, and his troublesome body still rotted; therefore the precaii- Jiemwere discontinued. Smick. 5 out 428 LONDON. out in coals for their use. As an addition to this foundation, Mrs. Alice Smith, widow, devised lands to tbe amount of 15/. a year; which, with the above mentioned benefaction, being greatly increased in their revenues, the Skinners' Com pany, who are the trustees, rebuilt the house, and aug mented the pensions. St. Helen's Place, a very handsome pile of buildings now erecting, covers the remainder of the ancient niiimery of St. Helen ; a very great portion of the remains of which was exhibited in Leathehsellers' Hall, which was also a Dissenting meeting house. The whole has been demolished, and replaced by the structures abovementioned. The parish CHURCH of St. ETHELBURGA., THE lady who is denominated the patron saint of this church was sister of S't. Erkonwald, bishop of London. Her brother having built for himself the monastery of Chertsey, in Surrey, founded for her another at Barking, in Essex. Bede, in his Ecclesiastical History, mentions a number of miraculous interpos)J;ions in favour of her and her sisterliood, of which at this day we have no occasion to make particular mention. This LONDON; 429 Irhis chtlrch, one of the smallest within the tity, is sup- |)osed to be of the architecture in the reigns of Henry V.' and VI. The south wall has four lancet windows; on the north side two are blocked up. The |Julpit is ancient ; and on the south side is a gallery, which was prected by Mr» Owen Saintpeer, churchwarden in 1629, " only for the daughters and maid servants of this parish to sit in." At the east end is a large arched window, with the crest of the Mercers' Company > the arms of the City, and of the companies of Sadlers and Brewers, in painted glass. The altar-piece is neatly ornamented with six Corinthian pilasters, entablatures, &c. The monuments ate to the memory of John Cornelius Linchebeok, of Londonj mer chant, 1655. Rev. William Price, nearly eighteen years rector, died 1749. Mr. and Mrs. Waghorn, he died, 1789 ; she died 1768. Thomas Pestiil, a constant resident in the hopse, wherein he was born, in this parish, to the age of sij^ty years, 1799. The external appearance of the church has undergone very material alterations. W-hen it was engraved by Toms*' in 1736, it had projecting shops on each side of the pointed door i over the door was a pent house, with a bulustrade, behind was a flat arched Gothic window, over which a dial projected into the street; the steeple was of board, with square pillars, the capitals supporting a window, in which was the Sanctus bell, vulgarly called the Sainfs bell*. It is at present a plain front, stuccoed over, having a window, with a clock, and a small turret; but contains nothing further worthy of notice. The length of the church is fifty -four feet, the breadth twenty-five, and the altitude thirty-one feet. It is a rec tory of small value, in the gift of the bishop of London. MARINE SOCIETY OFIglCE. This IS a. large, plain building, the first stone of which' was laid on the 30th of April 1773, by the then president, * The Sa»cius BeUs were formeriy affixed in every church, and usually rang when the host was exalted, as a signal for devotion throughout the parish, at the words " Holy, holy, holy, &c." VoL,n. No. 45, 3 1 Lord 4^0 LONDON; Lord Romney, attended by the governors, and twenty of the boys,, who carried various banners ou the occasion. This patriotic institution originated fvom the benevolerat plans of Mr. Hicks, a Hamb.urghi merchant, who justly consid wj^ft'ht eventually injure their property, and, each person, 5e^eijVed. bis two, shiUingSu; but shortly af terwards one of themj Mv- Ciutterbuok, paid into, tho hands of Justice Fi were ifi- debted to the active and unpeasing labours of the excellent philanthropist Jonas Hanway, Esq. and we cannot better describe the great utility of the Marine Society, than in his own energetic wm^s, addressed to his friend Charles Gray, Esq. of Cpl.chest^rj: ."The CommiUee of our Society," Idys he, "as you wllHewn from thejr secretary, has received' the boys you sehtthem : one of thtm •LONDON. 431 them altered hh Inhid, aftd was retuthed to his hohie. You Will approve 'of oar great caution ; »ot even to p^f^Hade, W^iete there seems Wbe atiy particular tohdertiSss in a boy's turn ctfiiiitidi wbich fits hitn for thfe labours of peace, i'ath'^ fliaJn the rigors of war. Out zealeu* ftifeftAs of this smA^y 'go Kin W*lh their useful, pMis, anil ¦^ta Hndertaking. W6 have now elothed ind fitted Out 4500 tten, andOTOO b^ys. We ransack the ilirie Mit^efms for every bojr Ihat is ftot useful ohshtjrej afeo for such as are Siiibitlous to try ttreir fortune at sea, theit parents recommehding thiefti for this pur- p6se ; 41id above all, fof those Whose wre^hed^tea makes theini Tea:dy'to accept the ej^rtS 'bounty. Ofthe last yoO'iHay Imaginfe the number Is riot so great as it Was, and yet I fear there will be too ¦many of thein, so long as the efiefts of the /rrf irani^rww'on re- trAiti. We have deceived matty from Edinburjgh, arid now We ate prortilsed one hundred sibtit lads by th6 Marine Sociiety of DvMin, the gentlemen who compose that society having engaged also to clothe theitt. " You have heart! that the Oity of London has latdy given 5001. to our Society. This we consider as a mark bf great horiour, afe Kvlsll as a most seasonabk mpply ; for as high as We figure in the esteem of a grteitnumber of peoplfcj there are also many who are not yet acquainted with us, or I think we should havp received some marks' of, their gaod-tuiU, Those who know that there are many distressed objects from all quarters, ta whom raiment is plea-. sure, healili, and life, and wish to see the Navy recruited with such {persons as are least useful on shore, ahd whorti this Society is instru- mental in calling forth from obscurity, wiityet give its aid. 1 am well persuaded, that the gay and Isippy, Who will hunible th6thselves to Visit our Gommittee, wer ihe Royal Exchaii^e, oil fhuftdays, and sfee our boys in their ttiholt gatb vf w^etcht'dness, will not let Us Wafitfot itidn^. " We havis glorious examples befbi-e us of men m» (^6, We also must shoW a spirit e(\\xiX to OMJv^jWerpfw. Lfet us do nothing by haives : the pleasure of , seeing the war pushed on with vigort should animate this buiineis also; thoufh very small r Compared wjth thegeneraZ great object of the nation, it Is Very important in ltd effpfis; and, what is more. It is upheld by the virtiig of private persons. " I know not how it comes to pass, but many whose hearts are warm, and fortunes larger donot yet seem to be acquaintedj thai this aSair is conducted by a Society,whQ ave quite in earnest With Regard 3 12 to 432 LONDON, tO' the pub/lie welfare ; that it is attended by a regular committee r that not a penny of the subscriptions is diverted from the object of them ; that no single person has any direction independent of the committee ; and ^at ith of more universal utility, with regard to the present occasion of war, than all the other noble private cha« rities with which this nation abounds. If all this were known, and we may pronounce it to be absolutely true, I think we should be higher in cash : not that we have checked our operations in any instance: we consider ourselves as the children of Providence* ,and have rfcelv^d many providential supplies. Necessity is the mother of invention ; and we must hope that the rich will give us hpip to carry it through with spirit till the end of the war. I have not time at present to Inform you of all that we are about ; bpt I am in hopes we shall hit upon the means of providing for our boys when the -war is ended, of which the Society, I make no doubt, will be very glad, but they must be properly assisted. As io the great national object, in respect to our Seamen in general, to which you pay so much attention, I will let you know my thoughts In good time. Farewell.* Such were the beneficial effects of the institution, that the society had received from the year 1756 to the year 1762, 22,553/. Us. 2d. During the war which then Subsisted, the sociefy had clothed and eqiiipped for the navy five thousand four hun dred and fifty-two persons, chiefly landsmen, and four thou.. sand seven hundred and forty-five boys, of whom the ma jority were in abject poverty, and unhappy candidates for perdition ; while others suffering under the additional cala-f niity of disease, were humanely relieved out of the funds of this most excellent society. The legacy above men tioned of 20,000/. and eventually of 2000/. additional, was to be placed at interest ; the amount of which is applied, during war, to the equipment of boys for the navy ; and, in peace, for apprenticing boys and girls ; the society pre ferring orphans of seamen and soldiers. Thus have a body of philanthropists raised and^ substan tiated a fabric dedicated to Humanity, to Patriotism, and • Reasons for an augmentation ef at least twelve thousand man-- per?, &e.j J759, to LONDON. in -t& "Virtue ; and fofnied an essential link to that vast chain of benevolence which is the honour of our country, and the admiration of surrounding nations ! It justifies in every re spect the compliment which Charles II. on a similar occasion, paid to the city of Amsterdam*. It remains only to notice some of the leading features of the regulations by which the society is governed; this is ob- , tained by the following short Prospectus of the necessities to ,be relieved, and the means of accomplishing a system by which the plan of this noble institution is rendered useful to the nation, and to its various objects of charity : *' It must be observed,! that .every man of war, priva teer, and merchant ship, is obliged to take a certain number of boys, which are considered both as necessary to the ship, and a nursery for seamen ; thus in every sixty gun ship of four hundred men, the captain and officers .require thirty servants. " These it was imposdble to obtain at the breaking out of the war in 1756; the society therefore sought for them among the vagrants, the pilferers, and those whose ex- •treme poverty and ignorance rendered them pernicious to the community, . " Of these boys they took some of thirteen years of age ; but chiefly invited stout lads of sixteen and upwards, be cause they would soon become able seamen ; and now tljey take none who are less than four feet four inches in hpigbt. " As to the landsmen, they are required to be hardy, active, and irobusit ; these, to prevent their being despised by the sailors, are immediately cloathed as seamen, and so divided among the messes of the marinersj as will soonest enable them to learn their language and duty, and they are • When Charles, by means of the influence of Lewis XIV, had been induced to make war wjth the Dutch, the United States' were reduced tothe utmost extremity; and their capital city was said,- in the lan guage of Charles's profligate courtiers, "to be forsaken by Heaven." f No," says, th^ good-natured monarch, " God Almighty will never forsake .Anjsterdam, whilst it exhibits such extensive charities!" What (pight nqt Charles have sai4 of bis own metropolis had he now lived ! completely 434 LONDON. compiletely fitted out without being obliged to expend any part of the bounty grsaiated by his majesty to all the lands men who enter into the service. *" The cloathing and bedding given each of the boys are il felt hat, a worsted cap, a kersey pea jacket, a kersey pair of breeches, a striped flannel or kersey waistcoat, a pair of trowsers, two pair of hose, two pair of shoes, two hand- ierchiefs, three shirts ; a bed, pillow, blanket, and coverlet ; a pair of buckles and buttons ; thread, worsted, and needles; a knife, a Prayer Book and Testament to those whose cap tains desire: them, and a bag to put their cloaths in. " The cloatlBng g;iven each of tbe men is, a fdt sea man's hat, a kersey pefa jacket, a waistcoat and drawers of the same, a pair of drab breeches, a pair of thin trowsers, a pair of worsted hose, a pair of yarn hose, two shirts, two worsted caps, one pair of shoes, one pair bf buckles, one pair of buttons, a knife, thread, worsted, and needles, vrith a bag for their cloaths. " A note of these cloaths is given to every man and boy, by which he may see what he has, but nothing is delivered till they are actually on board the tender in the river Thames, or in their respective ships at the ports ; except to the boys, who are attended to the ships." In addition to all this, the society have been enabled to build a small vessel, which is usually moored off Green wich, in this ship are schoolmasters and assistants, for the instruction and diet of the boys, destined probably, at some future period, to be great assista.nts in the protection of their country. Passing Camomile Street, where is an elegant meeting house for Independent Protestant Dissenters, we come to a house, on the front! of which is a mitre carved in stone. Here stood BISHOPS-GATE, Though this entrance into the City has been demolished Upwards of forty years, tliere are some anecdotes attached to its remembrance, that ought not to be passed.over. Mr, LONDON. 4'35 ' Mr. Strype imagined that this gate was erected" by Erfceti- wald, bishop of London in the year 675 ; it was also said to be repaired ia the time of William I. by William the Norman, bishop of London, and the great pattron pf" the city : these circumstances might account for the effigies of the two bishops with which this gate was ornamented. Stow,'- however,. makes no- mention of it anterior to the year 1-210, when William Blund, one of fclie sherilfe of London, soltj to Serle Merc.er, and William Alraaine, procurators, or wardens of London Bridge, his land antt gardrais without Bishopsgate- In the reigft oP king Henry III. the Hanseatic company of merchants residing in thisi city, iiii .consid'eration^ of se- vera4 privileges granted to them, obliged themselves* and' their successors not only to keep this gatfe in repair, but to defend it whenever it should be attacked by an enemy. But the said company not- fulfilling their contract, they were presented to the judges itinerant, sittings at the Toiwer of' London, for their neglect in not keeping the said' gatse in repair, although they were made free of the city on tha* consideration. UpoH this presentment, Gerard Marbod, ddermarlof the Haunse, andthe director of the said' cpmpany, agreed to pay to the mayor and citizens the sum of two hundi'ed and ton marks, for the immediate reparation of the gate, and- eiitered into a new covenant, by which tbejjj boupd them selves and theii^ successors tokeep it in repair and defend it for the future ; and by this company it was rebuilt in a beau- tifiil manner in the year 1479. In the year 1551, the. abovementioned^ company of mer chants prepared stone fop rebuilding- BJsBopsgate; but the company being dissolved about this period, a stop was put to the work, and the,- old gate remained' till the year 1731, when it was quite. takpn,dow.ij,, and rebuilt, at the expence oX the.City, hut UQt completed tUl 1735- It is.remarkabljoy the sanie, they and their successors every year shall give and distribute to and for the sustentation, maintenance, ' and finding; fouff LQNDON. 439 four persons from time to time to be chosen, nominated, and ap pointed by the said mavor and commonalty and citizens, and their successors, meet to read the lectures of Divinity, Astronomy, Music, and Geometry, within mine own dwelling hou.^e in thfe parish of St. Helen's, in Bishopsgate Street, and St. Peter's tKe Poor, in the city of London (th.e moiety whereof hereafter in this ray last will is by me limited and disposed unto the saidmayor and commonalty and citizens of the said city) the sum of 200/. of lawful money- of England, in raanner and form following, viz. to every of the said readers for the time being 50Z. of lawful money of England, yearly, for their salaries and stipends, meet for four sufficientlylearned to read the said lectures, &c.". The will then proceeds in making provision for the alms houses which he bad made at the back of his house, and for certain sums which he desired might be annually dispensed for the relief of prisoners in various prisons ; after which he ordains -what shall be the duty of the company o^ Mercers : " And as concerning the other moiety, before in this my pre sent last will disposed to the said wardens and commonalty of the corporation of the MerCers, I will and dispose, that after such time as the same moiety, according to the intent and meaning of these presertts, shall come to the said wardens and corporntion of die Mercers, and firom thenceforth, so long as they and their sue. cessors shall by any raeans or title have, hold, and enjoy the sarae, thatthey and-their successors every year yearly shall give, and pay* an4 distribute to ^nd forthe finding, sustentation, and mainlenance o£ tliree persons by them the said wardens and commonalty, and their successors from'time to time to be chosen and appointed, meet to read the lectures of L^w, Physic, and Rhetoric, within mine now dwelling house in the parish of St. Helen's, in Bishopsgate Street, and St. Peter's the Poor, in the city of London (the moiety whereof hereafter in this my present last will is by me appointed and disposed to the said corporation of the Mercers) the sum of 150/. of lawful money of England, in manner and form following,* viz, to every of the said readers for the time being the sum of 501. for their salaries and stipends, meet for three sufficiently Jearned to read the said lectures, Stc" The situation of th^ pkoe, spaciousness of the fabriq, vrith the eight almshouses situated at the back of the bouse,' 3 K ?, the 440 LONDON. the accommodation for separate apartments of the several professors, and other rooms for common uses ; the open courts and covered walks ; with the several offices, stables, and gardens, seemed so well suited fbr such an intention, as though Sir Thomas had it in view to form a college when he built his house. Sufficient care was taken that tbe two corporations, who were intrusted with the superintendance of the undertaking, should not lose by tbeir trouble. The stated annual payments, directed by the will, amounted to no more than 603/. fi.s. Sd. ; whilst the amount cf rents from the Exchange was 740/. beside the additional profits arising from time to time by fines. Sir Thomas Gresham did not survive long to enjoy the fruit of his munificence ; on the 21st of November 1579, he fell in an apoplectic fit in his own kitchen, and instantly ex pired, in the sixty-first year of his age. " He had tbe happiness of a mind every way suited to his fortune, generous and benign ; ready to perform any good actions, and encourage them in others. He was a great friend and patron of tlie celebrated martyrologisf, John Fox, and other eminent and learned characters. He was well acquainted with ancient and modern languages, and had a very -comprehensive knowledge of commercial concerns, both foreign and domestic ; his success in these kinds of traffic were immense, and he was esteemed the richest com moner of his time ; his probity was equal to his opulence ; and as his genius and abilities surmounted every occasion of difficulty, his justice and honour ensured him the highest consideration both of bis sovereigns and their subjects ; and,' as we have in another place stated, he was styled " The Royal Merchant " In fine, as no one could be more ready than Sir Thonias to perform benevolent actions, which might contribute to the honour of his country ; so he very well knew how to make, the best use of theni for the most laudable purposes. Each of his benefactions, separately considered, is great in itself, and a just foundation for lasting honour; but, when united, they are peculiar to that great man without a rival. After LONDON. 441 After the decease of Sir Thonias and his ladj"^, who had a life interest in the estates, the City and the Mercers' Coni- pany immediately topk upon them the trust ; and having obtained possession of the estates, proceeded to the appoint ment of lecturers; but that they might not be misled in their choice, they applied to the two universities of Oxford and Cambridge ; but as they wished not to give any um brage, they elected three professors from each university, and a seventh,, who was a graduate of both, uppn the re commendation of Queen Elizabeth. Pkofessors of Gresham College, from its Founda tion. Extracted frpm " Ward'.i Lives of the Gresham Professors," Divinity. Anthony Wottpn, B, D. Camb. Richard Holdsworth.D.D. Camh, 1 629, appointed dean of Wor cester, but died before instal lation. See St. Peter le Poor. Thomas Horton, D. D. Cdmb. 1641, warden of Queen's Col lege. George Giffbrd, B. A. Oxon. 1660, rector of St. Dunstan's ' in the East. Henry Wells, A.M. Camb. 1686. Edward Lany, D.D. Camb. 1691. John Bridgen, A. M. Oxon, and Camb. 1728. John Henry Parker, A. M. 1806. 1596. Hugo Gray, D.D. Camb. re signed, 1604. WiniamDakins,B.D.C«m6.16D4, one of the translators of the • New Testament. George Mountayne, D.D. Camb. 1605, afterwards archbishop of York. William Osboldton, D. Dv Oxon. . 1610. Samuel Brooke, D. D. Camb. 1612, archdeacon of Coven try. Astronomy. Edward Brerewood, A '.M. Oxon. Samuel Foster, A.M. Camb. 1 636; 1596, author of severallearned works. Thomas Williams, A. M. Oxon. 1613. Edmund Gunter,, A. M., Oxon. 1619, author of the Dials and a Scale, which go by his name. Henry Gellibraiid, A. M. Oxon, 1626, famous in mathema tics. Dr. Twysden says, "he was a learned, industrious, and most skilful matheraaiician." He published ' many learned works. Mungo Murray, M. A. St. An- dr^ and O.xon. 1637,, SamuelFosler, re-chosen. Laurence Rooke, A, M. Camb. 1652. Sir 442 ^ONDOM. §ir Christ9pli£r Wr^n, 0;cqif. i^lexander "l^orriano, D,C. O^rc?;. 1657. Th6 RE-^ui.;^ijER o^ , 1691,. ' London. John Machin, secretary to the Walter Pope, M, p. 1660. Royaf Society, 1713, Diipiel Man, ^. M. Oxon, 1687. Rey.PeterSandiford,A;M. 1 806. Geometry. Henry Briggs, A. B. Camb. A.M. Oxon. 1596, "The mirror of his age in Geometry." He published eleven works upon that science. Peter Turner, M.D. Oxon. 1620. Wood styles him, besides be ing an excellent scholar, " a thorough - paced niathematit cian." John Greaves, A.M. Oxait, 1620. He published, 1 . A Descrip tion of the Pyramids. 2. A Discourse on the Roman Foot and Denarius. The Tables of Abulfedae, and other in genious and learned works. Ralph Button, A.M. Omu. 1643. an eminent nonconformist. Daniel Whistler, M, D, L^den and Oxon. 1648, president of the College of Ph) sicians. Laurence Rooke. See the As. trononay Professors. Isaac Barrow, D. D. Camb. 1662. This excellent divine and scholar publishi^d several ma thematical works. Arthur Dacres, M. D. 1664.. Robert Hooke, the great im prover of horokigy, 1664, Andrew Tooke, A. M. Camb. 1704, Usher in the Charter House, publiiiher of the Pan theon, and other classic works. Thomas Tomlinson, A. B. Oxon. 1729. George Newland, L.L.D.. M.P, ' for Gatlop, 1731. Samuel Kettilby, D. D. 1806. Mirsic. John. Bull, Mus. D. Camb. 1596; organist to Queen Eliza beth, and an eminent com poser. Thomas Clayton, M.D. 1607. ' John Taverner, A. lyi. 1610. I^ichgitd Knight, M, B. 1638. Sir William Petty, M.D. Oxon. Oxon. Camb. Oxon. 1650. The famous political arithmetician, and founder of the noble hoiise of the Mar- quisate of Lansdown. Sir Thomas Baynes, M.D. Camb. Oxon. Pa^ua, 1660. Williarii Perry,' A. M. Camb. im- ¦ „ .\ JohnNewey, A.M. Oxon. 16^6,' dean of Chichester. R-obert Shippen, D. D. Oxofi, 1705, L'dlif'D^iSf. 443 1705, principal of Brazen- ... nose College. Edward Shippen, M, D. Oxon. 1710. John Gordon, Camb, 1723. Thomas Brome, A.M. 1739. Theodore Aylward, Mus. D, R. J. S.Stevens, 1806. .LaW. Henry Mowtlow, D. C. L. Camb. 1596, member of parliament for the university of Cam bridge. ClementCorbet, D. C. L. Camb. 1607. • Thomas Eden^ D. C. L. Camb. 1613, M.P. for Cambridge, and master Of "Trinity Hall. Benjamin Thorijeton, A. 'M.' Camb.-le^. 'Joshua Crosse, LL.D. Ox&n. 1644.. ' Thofflas Leonard, M, D. Gdmb, ¦ 1649. John Bond, LL. D. Camb. 1049. Benjamin Thorneton, rechosen. Richard Pearson^-D.C.L, Canih. 1 667, keeper of the royal li brary. John Clarke,LL b. CanS. 1670, Regius Law Prpfessor, Cam bridge. Roger Meredith, A. M. Ctimb. 1672, secretary to Sir Wil liam Temple, fluting the ne gociations iit Nfrtie'gueh, 'and one of the masters fn CThan- Robert Briggs, A, M. Camh 1686. John Cumyng, barrister -at few, 1719. Thomas Taylor, L. L. D. .1806. Matthew Gvi'lnne, M. D. Oxon. 1596. Peter Mounsell, A. M. Oxm. ,M. b. Leyden, 1607. Thomas Winston', M.' D. Canib. and Padua, 1615, called by Casaubon, " the great • orna ment of his profession." Paul De Laune, M. D. Camb. and Padua, 1643. Tliomas Winston, r8s(ored 1652. Jonathan Goddard, M. D. Cajnb, i655, M. P. for Cambridge. John Mapletoft, D. D. and M. D. YSIC. Camb, 1675, an excellent di vine, physician, and scholar. Henry Paman, M. D. Oxon. arid Camb, and LLD. Ciimb, \dl9. Rev. EdwardStillingfleeti M;D. Camb. 16S9. John Woodward, M. D. Cart^. 1692, founder ofthe Wood- wardian professorship ip Cam bridge, i a most excellent and extensive scholar. Henry Pemberton, M. D. 1728; Christopher Stanger, M.D. 1806:. Rhetoric. 44t LONDON. Rhetoric Caleb 'Willis, A. M. Oxon. 1596. " one of (he mirrors of Jedrn- Richard Ball, A. M. Oxon, time ing in his age." of election uncertain. William Croone, M. D. Camb. Rev.Charles Croke, D.D. Oxon. . 1659. 1613. Henry Jenkes, A. M. Camb, Rev. Hepry Croke, D.D. Oxon. 1670. 1619. John King, M. B. Camb. 1676. Edward Wilkinson, A. M. Oxon. SirClrarles Gre;sham,A.M. Oxon. 1627. 1686. John Goodridge, A.M. Oxon, Edward Martyn, A.M. 1696. 1638. John Ward, LLD. 1720. Richard Hunt, A.M. Ca»i6.1 654, Joseph Waugh, A . B. 1 806. This college was so decayed in 1686, that Sir Christopher Wren, who had been desired to survey the premises, de clared; the buildings to be in a dangerous condition. Inthe year 1704, the trustees petitioned parliament to take down the who'lfe structure, and to rebuild it in a convenient man ner, that the lecturers, &c. might be comfortably accom modated with chambers. " The application was unsuccess ful. The year 1768 produced a bill, which was passed, fbr carrying into execution an agreement for the purchase of this college, for building an excise office on the site. The corporation were to find " a sufficient and proper place for the professors to read their lectures in ;" the place appro priated for this purpose is a room on the south-east side of the Royal Exchange ; and the lectures are thus arranged : Monday, Divinity. Thursday, Geometry. Tuesday, Civil Law. Friday, Rhetoric Wednesday, Astronomy and Saturday, Physic. Music The opportunity which the above bill furnished to the lecturers against celibacy, according to Sir Thomas Gresham's will, induced them to present a petition that the restriction of single men only to be lecturers might be -tlone away. This was complied with. The only view of the college, which after the Fire of London, served as a common refuge for the municipality and 5 LONDON. 445 and merchants, is preserved in Ward's Lives of the Gresham Professors. It was here that the Royal Society had its origin. The college was pulled down in 1768, and in its place ro.se THE EXCISE OFFICE. This is a plain, massy, and beautiful stone building, upon a masterly design. It is very spacious, with a magnificent front, composed of a double basement, with a principal and attic story. A slight projection in tlie centre is termi nated by a pediment. Here is a- high and spacious arch, with a flight of steps leading to an area, three sides of which are occupied by various offices belongipg to the revenue. The passages to them ^re very dark. The Excise OFFICE^was formerly kept in the house in the Old Jewry, originally occupied by Sir John'Frederick, lord mayor in 1662.' This office is managed by nine commis sioners ; under these there are a multiplicity of officers, both within and without the house, viz. commissioners for appeals, a secretary and clerks, accomptants general, ge neral surveyors, a receiver general, comptroller of cash, inspector general for coffee and ttei, an auditor of excise, au ditor of hides, a comptroller, &g. witb clerks in each office. The.se receive the produce of the excise duties collected all over England, and pay it iuto the Exchequet; and for the collecting, surveying, &c. they have a great number of cut-door officers in all parts of the kingdom, regulated withiri certain districts, or divisions, both hdrSe and foot, to gauge, and to prevent frauds and loss. Before the commissioners of iexcise are tried all frauds committed in tbe several branches of the revenue under their direction ; without any appeal, except to the commis sioners of appeal for a re-hearing. Wherefore the people of England look upon the excise laws to be iin infringement ;Bpon their freedom ; and are always jealous and resolute tb oppose any extension pf those laws. Tbe consolidated excise, in the year ending the 5th of Ja. nuary 18,05, produced 12,798,540/. 16s. Sid. ; and the sama stfurce of revenue produced on the Sth of January 1806, 14,121,583/. 35. Uld. Vol. Ii. No. 46. 3 L ST. U6 LONDON^ ST. PETER LE POOR. THIS church is supposed to have received the addi tional name of LePoor, from its approximity to the Au gustine monastery, the rule of which affected poverty, and its monks were denominated '1 begging friars." A church stood upon the spot so early as. the year 1181 ; and the late edifice which had escaped the Great Fire, was erected about the year 1540.. This structure, which subsisted till the present one was re built, Jiad beeU a disgrace to the respectable street in which it was placed; it was mean in its structure, an obstruo- lion to the passage, and; in many degrees had more the appearance of an inn than a place of worship ; which idea was strengthened by the clock extending across the street, in resemblance of a sign-post. Its inconvenience and ruined state induced the inhabitants to apply for an act of parliament in 1788 to take down the old fabric, and erect another upon the site of an adjoining court. Thus, by having more room behind the passage. Broad Street, and the other avenues, might be rendered uniform and handsome. In the year ,1791, the design was completed by Mr. Gibbs, at the expence of 4000/. raised by annuities ; the. corpora tion ^/}^////j///i'iC -/o C///'o/ukr/i^/ur{/az/92e', I o/<3^S. LONDON. 4*47 t+on of London contributing 500/. as "part cf the money ; the new church was dedicated in 1793 by the bishop of London, and is a structure where elegance and simplicity are happily joined. The interior is of a rotund form, with proper terminations ; besides the principal door, there are four others into the vestry, &c. and handsome fire places let in on the north and south sides. The church is very handsomely pewed, and the pulpit and reading desk are placed on the north side of the middle aisle from the entrance, and so contrived that the altar, which is plain and simple, is not obstructed from the view. There are two TOWS of handsome galierjes, which are terminated by a plain organ ; underneath is engraved, on a brass plate, the date of the dedication of the church. Above the galleries, on each side, are monuments' mostly to the memory of the faUiily of Graham ; but none of any peculiarity worthy of remark. Above the galleries the building is diminished by an ornamented dome, the upper story of whicb is - sur rounded by arched windows, the whole terminated by an enriched cap ; from the centre hangs a large branch for il luminating the whole fabric. The only light to the building is admitted through the windows surmounting the dome. The exterior of the church is equally simple ; the door in the centre is between Ionic columns doubled, above which is a moulded pediment, with a plain tympanum. A square tOAver in two stories ; the first plain, for the clock and four bells; the second, ornamented with double Corinthian pi lasters, is' terminated at each corner with a handsome vase, and the whole finished by an elegant dome with a vane. The ends of the front, adorned with Ionic pilasters, with blank windows on each side, form, with the other parts de scribed, a very chaste specimen of modern architecture, St. Peter le Poor is a rectory, in the £ollation of the dean and chapter of St. Paul's cathedral, before the year 1181. Among the rectors was Dr- Richaro Holdsworth, an emi nent and loyal divine daring the reign of Charles I.; he was professor of Gresham College, ihas^r of Emanuel College, yice-chancellor of Cambridge, archdeacon of Huntingdon ; it L 2 and, 448 LONDON. and, in 1645, dean of Worcester, having refused the bi shopric of Bristol. But the principles of this excellent person being, contrary tp the turbulent temper of such as aimed at superiority by rebellion, be suffered much from the malevolent disposition of the Long Parliament ; he was deprived of his spiritualities, and several times imprisoned. Being afterwards set at liberty, he was permitted to attend his majesty in his affliction at Hampton Court, and in. the Isle of Wight ; and having seen his sovereign murdered by his Subjects, Dr. Holdsworth surrendered his pious soul to his Maker, August 22, 1649, and was buried in this church, out of which in his life he had been cruelly driven. John ScoTT, D. D. rector of St. Giles in the Fields, as well as of this church, in 1691, was the author of *' The Christian Life." Proceeding up Pig Street, towards the Royal Exchange, on the north side of Threadneedle Street, opposite Finch Lane, is THE WALLOON CHURCH. The hi.story of this spot is, that about 1231 a Jew's sy_ nagogue vvas built, and afterwards converted into a church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It rose, afterwards to be an hospital, dedicated to St. Anthony; to which was added a large free school, in this school were educated Sir Thomas More, Dr. Heatii, archbishop of York, and Dr. Whitgift, archbishop of Canterbury. There were also almshouses at the west end of the church, for poor men. Among other accounts of this hospital. Stow says, " That he could re member that the overseers of the markets in this city would take a starved pig from the market people, and having slit its ear, would give it to this hospital ; and that the proctors of St. Anthony's having turned it out into the streets with a bell about its neck, the pig might range about the city without danger. If any person gave it bread 6v other feeding, the subtle creature would watch him, and whine after him for more; whence arose the proverb, "That he follows me hke a Tantony, or St. Anthony's pig." But be adds, when any of those pigs became fit for the spit, the proctor LONDON. 449 proctor took them up for the use of the hospital. Hence arose the name of Pig Street, though now esteemed a con tinuation of Broad Street. At the dissolution of religious houses, St. Anthony's hos pital was valued at 65l. 6s. Sd. per annum. The college at Windsor lost at least one thousand marks every year, by the Reformation, in the profit made by the St. Anthony- pigs, which that appropriation to the hospital brought; but the principal ruin of the hospital is attributed to one of its schoolmasters, named Johnson, who, upon being appointed prebendary of Windsor, first dissolved the choir, then conveyed away the plate and ornamentsy the bells, and lastly turned the poor put of the almshouses, let out the premises for rent, and the church for a place of worship to the French protestants ; who hold it td this day of the dean and chapter of Windsor. They perform divine service after the manner of the church of England, in the French tongue. The ancient fidiric having been destroyed by the Great Fire, the present church was built at the sole expence of the French protestants ; and is a small, but neat plchce of wor- iihip, with a convenient vestry at the sopth east corner. They maintain their own poor, and have almshouses, con taining apartments for forty-five poor men and women, who are allowed 2s. 3d. and a bushel of coals every week, and apparel every other year. The government of this church is in a minister, elders, and deacons. Finch, or Fink Lane, was formerly covered by the , large mansion of the family of that name ; of whom Robert, the elder, rebuilt the parish church of St. 450 LONDON. St. BENEDICT, or St. BENNET FINK. THE former church was of very ancient foundation. In E323, John de Anesty was collated to the rectory on the death of Thomas de Branketre. Afterwards falling to the crown, the patronage was given by Edward IV. to the dean and chapter of Windsor; the impropriation is still in that reverend body, and thej' usually appoint one of theit body . to the living, who is licensed by the bishop of London. It is therefore only a donative, or curacy, though originally a rectory.' Havihg been rebuilt by Robert Fink the elder, it was repaired, and beautifully adorned at the parish charge, amounting to 400/. in the year 1633; it was in the year 1666 consumed by the dreadful fire, and again rebuilt and finiehed in the year 1673. The fabric is constructed of stone, and is a fine piece of architecture, the body of the church within being a com plete elipsis, and the ropf an eliptical cupola (at the centre of which is a turret glazed round) environed with a cornice, supported by six stone columns of the Composite order ; bet\veen each column is a spacious arch, and six large win dows, with angular muUions; those in the north wall are nearly filled up. The altar-piece consists of four small columns, with their entablature of the Composite order. Here LONDON. ^ 451 Here is also a very beautiful marble font,' the cover adorned with festoons, &c. And, as a farther ornament to the church, there is in one of the south windows a south dechning west dial finely painted, which has this motto: — Sine Lumi7ie Lnane. In another window is Mr. Holman!s coat of arms, painted on the glass. The length (or greater diameter) of the church is sixty- three feet, breadth (or lesser diameter) forty-eight, and the altitpde about forty-nine. The steeple consists of a square tower, over which is a large cupola, and above that a spire, above one hundred and ten feet from the; ground ; the tower is adorned with fresco work of festoons, &c. and contains six bells, beside the saint's bell. On the north side of the entrance into the chancel, are the names of the benefactors done in gold letters on black adorned with a carved frame,, and an arching pediment. The church could not have been so well finished bad not Mr. Holman contributed the sum of 1000/. This benevo lence is the more remarkable, because he was of the Romish persuasion ; he gave also the arms and dial in the windows - and would have given the parish an organ, had they not re fused his oflfer. There is at present a very good organ. There are no monuments in this church worthy of par ticular notice. Among the curates of St. Bennet we notice Samuel, Clark. This worthy man, who had been a preacher in Cheshire and Warwickshire, came to London, and. was made " Pastor of Bennet Fink;" where he was an useful minister till the Act of Uniformity in religion, during the reign of Charles II. silenced him and several pther pious men ; but though he had been deprived for non-confor mity, he continued his attendance at church, both as a hearer and communicant. He died on Christmas Day 16S2, having published for his support the following works : 1 . A Martyrology, with the lives of twenty-two eminent Di vines. 2. The Lives of sundry eminent Persons in this latter Age, 1683. 3. The Marrow of Ecclesiastical His, • ' tory. 452 LONDON. tory. 4. A Looking Glass for Saints and Sinners. 5. The Marrow of Divinity. 6. Examples. 7. The Life of our Blessed Saviour. 8. A Discourse against Toleration. 9. A Description of Germany. 10. The History of Hungary. II. Description of the seventeen United Provinces. 12. Lives of English Warriors. 13. The Duty of every one that intends to be saved. 14. An English Dictionary. 1 5. A Precedent for Princes. 16. A Book of Apophthegms ; and numerous other publications. Mr. Clark, and his two sons, Samuel, minister of Grendon, in Bucks, and John, minister of Hungerford, in Berkshire, were losers by their non-conformity to the amount of 600/. per annum. Nearly opposite this church, towards thev Royal Ex change, are very respectable banking houses, and eminent taverns and coflise houses, for the transaction of mercan tile concerns. Enp of the Second Route. ROUTE III. From the Royal Exchange, through Cbrnhill and Grace church Street, by the East End of Lombard Street, Eastcheap, and Thames Street, to the Bank of the Thames; returning io the Point of Commencement up Iktxvgate Hill, Walbrook, and tlie West End of I^ombard Street; taking in Parts of the Wards of CornhiU, Langbowrri, CandlC' wick. Bridge, Dewgaie, and Walbrook. PURSUING the first route as far as Gracechurch Street, we turn down to Lombard Street, which took its name from the Lombard merchants. These men, who were the great money changers of early times, came from the four Italian republics of Genoa, Lucca, Florence, and Venice, anterior to the year 1274, and settled in England during the reign of Edward I. Being extremely rich, and tbe necessi ties of the English monarch impelling him to grant them pro tection, they exercised the most notorious extortions. They had advariced money to the king, and therefore obtained such LONDOM. 453 suc^ exclusive privileges,' that the fair London traders were tonsidered as subsetvierit only to the views of thefe merce nary men. Their extortions at last became so excessive in the reign of Edward III; that the king seized on their estates; they iquickly surmounted this misfortune, continued their ini quitous practices, and were so opulent in the reign of Henry VI. that they furnished that unhappy king with money ; though not tHl the English custom dnties were mort gaged .to them as securities for the sum advanced. In this street they contsinued till the reign of queen Elizabeth; when the measures pursued by Sir Thomas Gresham confounded all their projects, and ultimately caused them to quit this country. They are only now remembered by the armorial bearings which distiiiguished them, viz. three golden balls, the' ensign at present applicable to pawnbrokers.* Thisi street was afterwards converted to dwellings for bankers of eminence, as it still continues. The object which claims our first attention is the parish church of ST. EDMUND THE KING. • Autijuarian Repertory.. Vol, il No. 46. 3 M ^AINT ^S# LONDON. SAINT Edniund, to whom this church is dedicated, was s Saxon king- of the East Angles, murdered by the Danes, being tied to a tree and shot with arrows, at Hoxon in Suf folk, in the year 870, for his stedfa^t adherence to the Chris tian religion. Stow says tlie church was formerly called_St. Edmund Grass Church, because the grass-market came so far westward. It is probable tbat a place of worship subsisted bere .before , the dissolution of the Saxon Heptarchy ; it afterwards be longed to tbe priory of tbe Holj'^ Trinity, Aldgate, and afti^ the dissolution of that priory, it was given by the crown to the archbishop of Canterbury aaid his successors, in whom the presentation still contliwes. It was one of tbose that shared in the. destruction made by the fire in 16,&6, and ¦was rebuilt and finished in the year 1690. The greatest length of the church is from north to south ; it is well built of stone, aud of tbe Tuscan order; the vooi is flat, and there are no pillars within that help to sup port it. The altar is placed in the north, over whicb isahandsome painted window, of the arms of queeri Anne. The altar- piece is yery neat, the pulpit neatly carved, and the font of marble, under a handsortie .canopy. There is also a neat little organ gallery, and the church is very well pewed and, wainscoted with oak- In other respects the church- is merely composed of plain walls, with tall arched niches. The ceiling is partly coved; the rest being'horizontaland plaki, except an aperture for a sky-light, and a large border above. The exterior is composed of two stories in- the same order,, the lower with, two square windows and a door, the second story has three arched windows, and a clock projefting over the street, above which rifes a tower, and an ornamented. spire. The dimensions of the oburcb are as follow; length sixty- nine feet, breadth thirty-nine^ height tliirty-two, and that of the steeple about ninety feet. Monuments LONDON. 455 Monuments mentioned by Stow,— Sir J'ohn Milfcorng, mayor, 1521 ; Humphrey Heyford, mayor, 1477; Sir Wil liam Chester, mayor, 1560; Sir George Barne, mayor, ISS'S, Monuments since 1700; " In a vault under the Coromunion-taible. lie the bodies of Mr^. Rebecca Sheppard, who died Oct. 8, 1721, and of the Rev. Mr. Thomas Sheppard, M. A. her Hulband, who died, Aug. 28, 1724. ""He was Curate and Lecturer of these two ijnited Parishes of .St. Edmund the King, arid Niclwlas Aeons above twenty Years; and, during the whole course of his M'irtistry, was very diligent and conscientious iu the Discharge of every Part of his jacred J'unction, perfornaiiig the severail Offices of the Church with great Reverence and Devotion, was deservedly commended for his pious and imstractive Discourses from the Pulpit, and was generally and deservedly esteemed (of his courteous and obliging Behaviour, fojr the! evenness and sweetn'fiss of his Temper, ajjid for his. universal Charity and Good-willf. to Mankind." . A hapdsmne sarcophagus, pyramid,- and tablet, with a long Latin inscription to the memory of Edward Ironside, Es<|. lord mayor, who died in his mayoi-aJty, A.D. 1753. , Another monument over the vestry door to the memory of Mr. Thomas Witherby, fifty years an inhabitant ©f this parish, and twenty-six yeai-s deputy aldermen of Langbourn ward; he died Nov. 26, 1797. On the notrth wall, a handsome monument of statuary marble, exhibiting Hope, reclining on an urn, with the fol lowing inscription •; ' " In Mempry' pf Jeremiuh Milles,' D. D. Dean of Exeter, Rector of these united Parishes, and President of the Society of Antiqua rians, who died Feb. 13, 1784, aged 70 Years. And of Edith, his. Wife, Daughter qf the Most Reverend John Potter, Archbishop of Canterbury, who died June 11, 17S1, aged 35 Years. Among the Scholars of his Time he was conspicuous for the variety and extent of his Knowledge ; and tp th^ Cultivation of an elegai^t and correct Taste fqr polite Literature, superadde<3 the most ju, dlcious Researdies into the abstruse Points and Learning of Asti- quity. His public Chacaeter was distinguished by an unremitted f eal and activity in those Stations to which his merit had raised hjia. Jn private life he was bel&ved and respected for the naturaiaweef. ¦ '' 3 M 2 ness 456 LONDON. ness of his Disposition, the purity of his Manners, and the iflte-. grity of his Condufl;. Blessed with a Consort worthy of himfelf amiable, affectionate, and truly pious, they mutually fulfilled every domestic Duty with chearfulness a.nd fidelity; and their grateful Children have the fullest confidence that they are gone to receive, in a more perfe6l State, the certain and final Rewards of their ex,- emplary Lives upon Earth." * The church of St, Nichol.as Acon or Hacon, stood on the west side of Nicholas Lan^, and was very antient; for in 1084, Gpdwin with his wife Turund, for the redemption of their souls, and the rem,ission of their sins, and of all Christ tians, gave the church of St. Nicholas, and all his houses, with their appurtenances to St. Mary and St. Aldelrae the confessOT, in the church of Malmsbury, for ever; which grant was afterwards confirmed by the bull of pope Inno cent IV. Upon the dissolution of Malmsbury abbey, this living came to the crown, where it still continues. The fa bric was consumed in the great fire, 1666, and the site is now used as a burial ground. Among the antient monuments were, Sir John Bridges, mayor, 1520; Francis Bowyer, alderman and sheriff, 1580; Julian, wife to John Lambard, alderman, and mother of William Lambard, Esq. the famous Kentish antiquary. Returning towards Gracechurch Street, we pass George Yard. This spot was formerly coveretl with a mansion be longing to the earl Ferrars in 1 175 ; it was afterwards an inn for travellers ; but since the great fire, the site was converted to dwelling houses, one of whiph is the George and Vul ture Tavern. Here the following livery companies transact their busir ness, and hold their courts, annual and other entertainments; FARRIERS. This company derive an origin from Henry de Ferraries or Ferrers, a Norman adherent to William I. who gave him, as being his farrier, or master of the horse, * The publications of Dean Milks are numerous. In the early part of his life he had made ample collections for a History of the County of Devon; and had also applied himself to the illustration of the Danish cpinage, and of Domesday Book. Gent. Ma^, vol. LTV. p. 1^3. th^ LONDON) i5^ the honour of Tutbury in Staffordshire; the first dignity given to Farriers in England. This company was incorpor- rated by letters patent granted by Charles II. in the year 1673, and governed by a master, wardens, assistants and livery. FLETCHERS, or Arrow Makers, firom Fleche, an arrow, are a company by prescription, and are become as firmly established as though they were incorporated. This fraterr nity consists of two wardens, assistants, and livery; all of different occupations, the use of arrows having been discon^ tinued in England for three penturies, They had formerly a hall in St. Mary Axe. BOWYERS. This is also a company by prescription, and of great antiquity; but not incorporated till the tvventy-first year of the reign of James I. by the name of the Master ^ Wardens, dnd Society of the Mystery of Bowyers of the City of London. They, however, consist of other trades, and are governed as above ; their hall was formerly in Hart Street, Cripplegate; and before the fire in 1666, situated on St. Peter's Hill, Doctors' Commons. . 13esides the above trades of Bowyers and Arrow-makers, there were antiently two others, named Sfringers, and Arrow head Makers. The decrease of these trades was so great, in consequence of the general use of gunpowder, that about 1570, they col lectively petitioned thelord treasurer Bprleigh, that he would exert his good offices with queen Elizabeth in their favour. In this petition they style themselves " The decayed compa- pies of Bowyers, Fletchers, Stringers, and Arrow-head Makers." They requested a prohibition of liplawful games, and that the exercises of the long-bow might be enforced. ^.ord Burleigh interested himself so much in tbeir favour that a commission was granted, to put the statute of Henry VIII. for the maintenance and exercise of the long bow in full force. The commissioners were appointed in every county '' to take due and lawful search, as well for such as used un lawful games, as also, whether every person, for himself, his servants, and other youth, had sufficient bows and arrows, and had not occupied the same according to the statute." , ' 5 This 45*. LONDON. TSs eoibmlssion mt answeeii% the purpose intended, an- othSrWas' issued in 1571, wherein the GommisaioneVs were , required •' to certify unto the lord chancellor or lord keeper » for She time being, iu bow many towns arWl parishes tk& C'OmnMSsiidia bad been exeouted, and the efiect produced." " The supply of b«(W-s.taves made of yew had been- formerly a bifanch of yefy productive trad'e; and by an antient sta tute in-tbe reign of Edward IV. the Italian merchants were db^pelled to import bOw-staves into England. The penalty f&f "iejnissioft was now demanded by the officers of Elizabeth of the Venetian merchants; these, however, by their coun ter petition proved "the impossibility of performing at this time what had lieen accomplished in the reign of Edward IV. as the Turks had possession of tlie country which had been Jrlanted with yews." But compukoi y edicts to support nugatory professions failed in tbeir effeft; and these tour ib-oiii|oanies sunk into mere nominal professions. ¦ The GLOVERS' Company was iucorporated by Charles L in 1638, and consists of a master, wardens, assistants and livery. They had formerly a ball in Beech Lane, Cripplegate, Ainongnarrow alleys stands the parish church of ALHALLOWS, LOIylBARD STREET. THE first account of this church occurs in 1053, whep Brilitmcr, a citizen of Lond'On, gave to thechurch of Can terbury, LONJX)N. 459 terbury, his messuage at Gressohurche, aad by tte lic©nsp tif Stigand the archbishoip and Godric, the dean, jbe gave t& tb^m the church of ,AHiallows. .Witness Liefstala, the por* treev.e, and others.'^ , , . • . The south aisle was jointly rebuilt by John Warner, s^mfF* 149 1, and his son, Rq^rt Warner ififfliahed this part of thft fabric in 16JC ; the north wsle aud the tower were finished in 1^44, the stone porch of which^ and tbe frame for the ibelte were belonging to the priory of St, J-ohn of Jerusalem, near West Smithfield ; the bells, however, were never brought to the church ; the reason of which was, that the above Mr. Wanner dying, his son Mark Warner refused to pomplet* what his father had so piously intended. The tower,, there fore, which was reckoned beautiful, was deprived of this part of its property, except a small bell called the friar's bell- Being one of those destroyed by the fire. Anno 1666, the church was re-constroct©d by Sir Christopher Wren, and finished in 1694; and is in length, eighty-four feet, breadth fitty-two, and height about thirty. The altitude of the tower is abeut eighty-five feet, built square, with a superstructure pf Open.work. The churcJi is also handsomely pewed, wainsooted, and has two very fine inner door-cases. The first is very spacious on the north side, and near the east end, of the Corinthian order, the pilasters fluted,, and. , the capitals, frieze, and cornisfa well carved, ovev wbich ia a large circular pediment, whereot) stands the image of Heath; and within this work, next tjie door, are other small pilasters, and an arching pediment, the space between which and tiie cornice under it is replenished with a piece of curious open carving, the view of part whereof is intercepted by an arti ficial white curtain; likewise carved, but so natural, that mauy have attempted to draw it on one side, the better to see the carving that seems to be behind. ' The other door-case is at the west end, and near the soytht^ side of the church, which is in every respect like the above, except the figure over the door-case, which is that of Time. * Somner. Dugdale's M-onasticon. The 464 LbNDOM. The architect has contrived to give an air of grandeUt to the inside of the fabricj this is as remarkable as it is extra ordinary, for the whole is destitute of detached pillars, ex cept at the chancel and the west end, which are square ; and the massy style similar to the Norman prevails in the arches of the -wkll. Yet this church has a peculiar claim to graceful ness; this has-been attributed to its altar-piece of the Com posite order, lighted on one side' by a painted window, ex hibiting houses in perspective, and by another which throws a grand light." The communion table is veneered, underneath is the Holy Lamb on a' chalice, andat each of the four feel of the table a dove.' The organ is at the west end, placed in the only gallery within the church. Above are four columns with their entablature, all beauti- fiilly cUt With five pediments of the Corinthian order ; the inter-columns are the Commandments, the Lord's prayer, and Creed; and in the middle, between the arching parts of the frames for the commandments, is a pelican feeding her young with her own blood (ap emblfem of our Saviour) ; above the cornice over the commandments, is a glory finely painted and adorned, with an enrichment of carving, flowers, fruit, &c. above all which is a large triangular pediment and seven candlesticks, representing, the seven churches ui Asia. ' The pulpit is finely carved and veneered, as is also the pillar and soUnd-bx>ard, which are of the Ionic order, adorned with palm-branches,' flowers, leaves, fruit, vases, &c. At the roof is a quadrangle of fret-work, and underneath are five windows on the north side, and four on the south, connected by a slender cornice. Monuments. Stow notices that ofthe above JohnWarner ; Christopher Toldervey, Esq.; Simon Horspoole, Esq. sheriff in 1591, buried under a plated stone; this getitleman left se veral charitable bequests, payable out of the rent of a house in Corbet's Court, Gracechurch Street. MoDEnN LONDON. 461 Modern Monuments. Mrs. Elizabeth Dansie, wife of James Dansie, Esq. of Conduit Street, and daughter of Charles Morton, Esq. M. D. late principal librarian of the British Museum, Thomas Ravenscroft, Esq. " As a friend he wasready, sincere, constant; as a companion, free, easy, chearful. In business, of strict probity, integrity, and honour. As a man of fortune, of secret, large, and" extensive charity."' Among the rectors of eminence was Dr. Francis, Dee, bishop of Peterborough, 1634. A short time previously- to his doath he gave to St. John's College, Cambridge, the im propriate living of Pegham, in Sussex, forthe maintenance of two fellows and two scholars for ever, the latter to, he elected out of Peterborough school. It appears that the grass or hay market was formerly held in this street, and extended as far as the church of St. Edmund the King. Opposite Alhallows Church is White Hart Court, in which is the most antient meeting house for the people called Quakers in London. It is as usual a plain room, but is re markable for having been the place whence the benevolent William Penn delivered his religious sentiments; a parti cular occurrence of the interruption this worthy man and George Fox received whilst speaking to the audience, by means of busy constables and soldiers on the Sabbath, is men tioned in Mr. Malcolm's Londinium Redivivus.* At the close of the first route we omiited to mention that the Cross Kej-s Inn, Gracechurch Street, was formerly used as a theatre for dramatic amusements. f • Turning down towards the bridge, we arrive at Eastcheap, "immortalized," says Pennant, " by Shakespeare, as the place of rendezvous of Sir John Falstaff, and his merry com panions. Here stood the Boar's Head 7''avera ; the site is covered with modern houses-, rhut in the front of one is still preserved the memory of the sign, the boar's head, cut in stone, which, when the house was a tavern, had been * Vol. I. page 58. t I^'d, I. 60. Vol. IL No, 47. 3 N placed 462 LONDON. place4 over the chimney-piece in the eating room. Not withstanding the house is gone, we shall laugh at the humour of the jovial knight, his hostess Mrs. Quickly, Bardolf, and Pistol, as long as the descriptive pages of pur great drama tic writer exist in our entertained imagination. In the wall of another house is a swan cut in stone ; probably the dis tinction for another inn." We have described in the song of London Lyckpeny,* ¦what was the antient traffic of this street, which was certainly famous for its conviviality. Its denomination, Eastcheap, is derived from the market serving the east part of the city, and which was afterwards removed to Leadenhall. From its vicinity to the Roman trajectus ov ferry over the Thames, there is great reason to suppose that it was one of the first markets In London. In this state it continued for ages, espe cially for victuals ; though there are only two or three shops in that profession to distinguish modern Eastcheap. In the year 1410, the princes Thomas and John, sons of Henry IV. being in Eastcheap at supper, or rather breakfast, after the watch had departed, between tbe hours of two and three in the morning, a fray arose among their attendants, which could not be appeased without the interference of the liic^yor, sheriffs, and other principal citizens. Curious as it may appear, the mayor, aldermen, and sheriffs were after wards summoned to answer for the riot before the king, his sons, and other principal lords; and die chief justice. Sir William Gascoignc, wished the city to throw itself upon the king's mercy; but the mayor stoutly refused such contempti ble submission, alledging " that they had not offended except the law were an ofiPence, and that they had exerted their ut most power in maintaining the peace, and suppressing riot and disorder." With this answer tbe court thought it most proper to be satisfied. Cannoh Street, a corruption of Canwick or Candlewick Street, took its name from being the wick ox residence of candle makers, whose trade in the days of superstition was of great consideration. In this street many weavers of * Page 124. woollen LONDON. 46S woollen cloth, who had been brought from Flanders by Ed ward III. were settled in business, and were appointed to have their meetings in the church yard of St. Lawrence Poultney; whilst those of Brabant assembled for the pur poses of commercial intercourse in the church yard of St. Mary Somerset, Thames Street. " There were then in this city, ' saj-s Stow, " weavers of divers sorts, to wit, of dra pery, tapery, and napery." But this mode of manufacture was soon displaced by regular drapery, and is at present in habited not only by persons in that profession, but by other eminent shop-keepers. On the north side of this street, in Abchurch Lane is the parish church of ST. MARY ABCHURCH, THIS parish is united to that of St. Laurence Poultney. When the church of St. Mary was first built is uncertain ; but Simon de Winchcombe, who" was sheriff of London, Anno 1383, founded a chantry in the 1 9th of Richard IL 'find the church was repaired at the parish charge in the year mi, 3N2 . The 464 LONDON. The church of St. Laurence, Stow observes, was aug mented with a chapel of Jesus, by Mr. Thomas Cole, and that and the parish church made a college of Jesus and Cor pus Cltristi by Sir John Poultney, four times lord mayor ;* the foundation grant was confirmed by Edward III. and tbe wliole surrendered in the reign of Edward VI. Both these parish churches were burnt down in 1G66; and the parish of St. Laurence being afterwards united to tbat of St. Mary, tbe latter church was rebuilt and finished in 168S. It is a neat structure, well built of brick, and stone quoins, window and door-cases; the tower is also of similar materi als, the steeple has a cupola and spire ; the roof is covei'ed witlrlead, and the inside comprises a dome above a cantaliever - cornice, supported by columns and several pilasters of the Corinthian order. In the dome are fom- port-hole windows, opening at the cardinal points. This dome is ornamented by a painted cornice, supported by huge dentals ; above is a representation of the host of heaven in full concert, praising the name Jehovah in the centre; underneath are brackets and ornamented shells; on the latter arc seated the figures of Faith, Hope, Charity, &c. Tbe church is lined with Norway oak about eleven feet high; a very commodious gallery at the west end, containing the organ, is of the same kind of timber; the gallery con- * Sir John Pouhney was a citizen and draper of, London, and lord mayorin 1330, 1331, 1333, and 1336. He founded the above college for a "master and twelve chaplains ; besides which he built the church of: Alhallows the Less, Thames Street, the church of the Carmelite Friars in Coventry, and a beautiful chapel in St. Paul's cathedral, where, says Stow, he was buried. This Sir 'WiUiam Dugdale disputes, and intimates an extract from Sir John' Poukney's will that hewas buried in St. Lau rence's church. In the chapel last mentioned he appointed three chap lains ; and for the more solemn performailce of his anniversary, he as signed annual allowafices, ndt.only to the candiis, 'ftiinor canons, &c. of the cathedral, biit to thiS lord: mayor of London, and- the city officers^ if present. For the accomplishment of wliich he devised certain lands and rents in the city to-St. Laurence's College, which thev by indenture, devised to the dean and chjipter, to perform the several duties thereiii' Ih^rttioned. ¦ ,..,':¦¦ sists LONDON, 465 siste of a front of circular pannels in cMved frames, with en richments of cherubims, and underneath isa handsome door case, aidcraed with architrave, cornice, and pediment, witli the arms of England carved." The north door-case is adorned with attic pilasters and arches, and tvvo fluted pilasters en tablature, and pediment of the Corinthian order, enriched with cherubims, fruit, leaves, corn-ears, &c. The altar-piece is a most magnificent piece of carved work. It consists of four columns, their entablature, and sipacious arched opera pediment, of the Coriiiithian order, ©n which la>3t is thfe letter R. within a garter SMpporbcd by two cheru bims. The intercolumns are the Commandments, very neatly done in gold characters on black, and the Lord's Prayer and Greed are gold on blue ; all the four tables are within frames carved and gilt. Over the columns are four lamps on acro- ters, aoid the whole has enrichments in great variety, of spa cious festoons of fruit, leaves, palm-branehes, and a pelican feeding her young, carved in reldeve. The comtnuiiion table is veaeered and adorned with fou* clierulaims; it stands on « fooit-pace of black and white mar ble. The pulpit is of carved Norway oak, enriched with cherubims, vases,, festoons, &c. A Spacious brass branch- candlestick given (with tbeironfrom which itis pendant) by Mr. Jdhn Watson, who also bequeathed to the parish 4/. per annum for ever : his arms are engraved on tlie branch. The diniensions of the church are, in length sixty-three feet, breadth sixty, altitude of the church fifty-one, and of the steeple one hundred and forty feet. Here were interred, according to Stow : William Wilkinson, alderman, 1519 ; Sir James Hawes, mayor, 1574; Sir John Branch, mayor, 1580, This Sir John as recorded by the above historian as ''' a pru dent go od^ man;" Ob. July 15SS, aged seventy-three years. Dame Helen his wife gave to be lent to two young men of the Company of Drapers, from four years to four years for ever, fifty pounds. To poor maids* marriages, ten pounds. To the poor of the church, ten piounds. To the poor 466 LONDON. poor prisoners in and about London, twenty pounds. Twenty -six gowns to poor men and women, twenty-six pounds. And many other worthy legacies to the Uni versities. And in St. Laurence Poultney were buried, Robert and Henry Radcliffe, earls of Sussex. William Beswicb, alderman, Ob. 1567. John Olyffe, alderman, Ob. 1577. Elizabeth, the wife of Emanuel Lucar, a very ingenious person in all sorts of needlework, could write three hands very well, was a good accomptant, could play well on the; vial, lute, and virginals. She read, spoke, and wrote Latin, Italian, and Spanish ; and; whicb crowned all, was endued with many virtues. She died at the early age of twenty- seven. An. Dom. 1537. On the south side of the church is a very handsome white and veined monument, adorned with twisted columns, their entablature and pediment, of the Composite order; on the pediment are three urns, and under it two cherubims, sus taining a fine gilded mantling, and the arms of the deceased, between four cherubims, two above and two below. And between two infants weeping is an inscription, to the memory of Edward Sherwood and his family. Another monument to the memory of Sir Patience Ward, lord mayor, 1681. St. Mary's is a rectory, in the gift of Rennets or Corpus Christi college. St. Laurence is a curacy in the gift of the parish. The site of the church is in Laurence Poultney L^'ne, pearly opposite. Among the rectors of St. Mary Abchurch, we remark Mr. James Nasmith, who published a new edition of Tan ner's Notitia Monastica, and other works. Dj. John War ren, late bishop pf Bangor. "SV^ilham Latimer, curate of St. Laurence Poultney, com plained, jointly with Bishop Hooper, in the reign of Ed ward VI. against Bishop Bonner, for leaving out of his ser-: mon at Paul's Cross, the article of the king's authority whilst LONDON. 467 whilst a minor, contrary to the royal injunction; and for various neglects in his episcopal office and duty ; for which the bishop was prosecuted and deprived. Latimer, it is supposed, escaped the vengeance of Bonner by flight be yond sea ; he afterwards was successively chaplain to Queen Elizabeth, archdeacon of Westminster, and dean of Peter borough, where he was buried in 1583. Passing the south end of Nicholas Lane, we ai-rive at CtEMENT's La'ne, in which is situated the parish church of St. CLEMENT, EASTCHEAP. St. CLEMENT was born at Rome, and became a disciple of St. Peter the Apostle. He was afterwards ordained bishop of his native eity. By his piety and learning, he made many converts to the Christian faith, and ivas banished by the emperor Trajan to the Chersonesus, beyond the Pontus, to dig in the marble quarries, and labour in the mines ; where he found several of his own persuasion, who felt themselves elated by the sight and conversation of so good a man. His eminence was so great even in this place, that his doctrine became well attended, and his religion at tracted the multitude to such a degree, as to cause the de molition of every monument of paganism. Persecution by the emperor was the consequence ; but though many suf fered death for their faith, the Christian refigiou' encreased ; which so incensed Trajan against St. Clement, that to strike terror into his followers, he was taken in a ship, and thrown ' into 468 LONDON. into the sea, \vith an anchor tied about his neck, that hi« disciples might not discover the body ; we forbear to ^ay in wliat a niiraculous manner it was afterwards found ; because, to persons who are not blessed with very much faith, it would be incredible. It is uncertain when this church was first erected, but it was repaired in 1632. The Great Fire reduced the old fabric to ashes, and the present church was rebuilt at the public charge in 16-86, of brick and stone. It is of the Composite order, having a flat roof, a tower, and pilasters round the interior of the church. The inside of the roof is adorned with a spacious circle, the periphery of which is curious fret work. It is well wainscotted eight feet and a half high, the pews are uniform, four handsome inner door cases are ornamented with branches of palm, sj;iields, cherubims, and pilasters of the Corinthian order. The pul])it is also adorned with cherubims and festoons, veneered and carved. The marble font lias a carved cover finely embellished. The altar-piece is spacious and beautiful, consisting of six coliimnS with their entablature of the Corinthian order, and seven pediments ; at each end of two triangular ones, are lamps on acroters, above which is a large circular pe diment, and under that is a glory in the shape of a dove in relievo, with solid rays gilt with gold, between cherubims. The inter columns are the Commandments done in gold letters on black, and outward frqm these, the Lord's Prayer and Creed done in gold on blue, the whole having the .en richment of fruit, palm and laurel branches, ^c. inclosed with rails and banister^ and the ground paved with black and white marble. Here is a neat wainscot gallery on the south and west sides of the church ; also a veiy good organ. Th^ewere buried here, according to Stow, Fra.ncis Barn- ham, alderman, 1575. His son, Benedict Barnham, alder man, 1598. William Chartney, and William Overie, founded a chantry here. The dimensions of the church are in length fixty-four feet, bri?adth fprty, altitude thirty -four ; and that of the 3 tower LONDON. 469 tower eighty-eight feet. It is a rectory in the gift of the bishop of London. To this parish is united that of St. Martin Orgar. Op posite Clement's Lane is Martin's Lane, in which is situated the remains of the parish church of St. MARTIN ORGAR. 'This church, which was nearly burnt down in the lire of 1666, was a rectory of very ancient foundation : for, by the register of Ralph Diceto, dean bf St. Paul's in the year 1181, it appears to have been in the gift of the canons .of St. Paul's cathedral. The name Orgar, added to it, was taken from Ordgarus the founder. Who gave that and St. Bo^ tolph's. Billingsgate, to the said canons of St. Paul's. The site of this churph, since the parish has been united to St. Clement'* Eastcheap, is made a burial place for the parishioners. However, part of the steeple remains, in which is a dial proje9:ing into the street; and part of the nave also being fouhd repairable, a body of French Pro testants, in communion with the episcopal Church of Eng land, obtained a lease of the tower and ruinous nave from the minister and churchwardens, and got. it confirmed by parliament : in pursuance of which, the purchasers erected Vol. IL No. 47. 3 O a church 470 LONDON. a church for their own use ; where they continue to per form divine service according to the rites ot the church of England. Sir William Cromer, lord mayor of London in 1413, and 1423, gave, by his last will, dated 1433, his bouse in Sweeting's Alley, aud his houses and gardens in Crutched Friars, for the repairs and ornaments of St. Martin's church, and for the use of the poor. According to Stow, this church was the place of sepul ture for the following eminent persons ; Sir William Cromer above mentioned. John Matthew, mayor, 1490. Sir William Hevvet, mayor, 1559, with his lady, and daughter, wife of Sir Edward Osborne*. Sir Humfrey BroAvne, knight, lord chief justice, 1562. John Franke, Esq. and his family, attendants upon Queen Anne of Denmark, wifeof James I. Sir Allen Cotton, lord mayor, 1625, on whose raonumcDt were the following hnes; inscribed by his sons : " When he left earth; rich bounty died. Mild courtesy gave place to pride ; So Merty to bright Justice said, O, sister, we are both betray'd : White Innocence lay on the ground By Truth, and wept at either's wound, " The sons of Levi did lament Their lamps went out, their oil was spent ; Heaven hath his-soul, and only we Spin out our live.'! in misery. So Death, thou missest of thy ends. And kill'st riot him, but kill'st his friends." A house in Martin's Lane, formerly belonging to ths family of Beauchamp, and called Beauchamp's Inn, waS' afterwards the town residence of Thonias Arundel, arch* bishop of Canterbury. Beyond this lane is Miles's Lane, a corruption of St. Michael's Lane ; here was an antient mansion, denominated * See Vol- 1, page 140. 5 Leaden- LONDON. 471 Leaden-Porch ; it belonged to Sir Thqmas Merston, an eminent knight in the reign of Edward IV. In Miles's Lane, is a Dissenting meeting-house, of which the late excellent and learned Dr. Addington was many years pastor. He compiled and pubhftied Hymns set to music, which go by his name. Crooked Lane. This avenue is very properly deno minated ; and to fliew to what a ftate of improvement this part of the city has arrived, on the spot where the phurch was afterwards erected was " a filthy plot, by reason the butchers in Eastcheap made the same their lay-stall*. This place is at present remarkable for the manufacture of fishing tackle, bird cages, hand mills, &c. St. MICHAEL, CROOKJED LANE, St. MICHAEL'S, though it stands in Miles's Lane, is more cojpimonly known by the name of St. Michael's, Crooked Lane. This church is of anciertt foundation, for John de Borham, rector, died in the year 1304. But at that time it was a very ordinary small building, and stood on the ground where now or lately stood the parsonage house. • Stow. 3 0 2 In 413 LONDON. In lSl8, Wilham de Burgo had a licence granted by Ed ward II. to found a chantry ; as had Penticostus Russel to found another in 1321, during the reign of Edward III. In 1366, John Loveken or Loufken, four times lord mayor of London, obtained a grant of the ground where the lay-stalls were, and built a handsome and capacious church thereon : and it received considerable additions from Sir William Walworth, lord mayor, who had arrived to that wealth and dignity from being a menial servant to the said Loveken. Walworth also founded a college in this church, for a master and nine priests ; settled his own new-built house adjoining to the church for an habitation of the said master and chaplains, or priests, for ever, and was buried in the north chapel by the ehoir. On his monument were the following lines ; Here under lyeth a Man of Fame, , William Walworth called by name. Fishmonger he was in lefe-tinrie here. And twice Ld Mayor, as in Books appear ; 1 Who, with Courage stout and manly might * Slew Wat Tyler in K. Richard's' sight : For which Act done and true Intent, The King made him Knight incontinent. And gave him Arms, as here you see. To declare his Fact and Chivalry. He left his Life, the Year of our Lord Thirteen hundred fourscore three and odd. Sir John Brudge, or Bridges, mayor in 1530, gave 50/. for the house called the College, in Crooked Lane, Robert March, a stock fishmonger, gave two pieces of ground to be a church-yard ; whiph was consecrated in 1392. ¦ This church was of old in the gift of the prior and con vent of Christ Church, Canterbury. But it fell into the hands of the archbishop of Canterbury, where the pa tronage still remains : and it is numbered amongst the thir teen peculiars of that see. At the suppression of the religious foundations, this col lege fell intp the king's bands ; and, together with the cloister LONDON. 473 cloister and appurtenances, it was granted, on the 29th of May, 1 Maris, to George Cotton and Thomas Reeve, in soccage, who let the premises upon building leases; and in the third year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the yearly value of the tenth belonging to the rectory, was granted to the archbishop of Canterbury, and his successors. Having been new roofed in the year 1621, at the ex- pence of 500/. it shared the common calamity of 1666 ; but was re-edified in 1688, and finished in 1698, by Sir Chris topher Wren. The body of the church is enhghtened by a ^series of large arched windows. The tower is carried square a considerable -height ; and the uppermost window in the centre of each face, is ornamented with a bead and handsome festoons. Hence, instead of a balustrade, is a range of open work of the Gothic kind, with vases at the corners. From within this part the tower ascends circular, diminishing in three stages, with an open buttress rising from each corner of the square tower, to the top of the first stage ; above this buttress is a large scrole to the top of the second, ahd a smaller to the top of the third stage: above which is a short round spire, of a peculiar kind, swelling out at the bottom, aud then rounding off, to a small height ; where it is terminated by a gilt ball and vane *. . It has a' square roof covered with lead. The floor is of stone, the chancel being one step higher than the other parts of the fabric, which is without columns, but with arches and imposts. A cOrnice of crocket work f extends round the roof; the side walls are handsomely wainscoted ; the pews arc of excellent oak, well finished. The south and west door cases are of the same kind of timber, and orna mented with pilasters of the Corinthian order. The altar is very neat, adorned with four columns and entablature, of the Corinthian order. The intercolumns are filled by the Decalogue, Creed, &c. each under a gilded * Many of the ornaments of this steeple were blown down by the great storm of wind which happened on the 27th of November 1703. -[• Plaistering in imitation of pannels. pherub, 474 LONDON. cherub, and has enrichments of lamps, fruit, leaves, &c. and these words of our Saviour, in St. John's Gospel, are under the Decalogue : " A new Commandment I give unto you, that ye love ont another." Stoxv mentions the following monuments ; Simon Mordon, mayor, 1368. John Finkall, sheriff", anno 1487. Sir John Patesley, mayor in 1441, Master of the Mint at the Tower. Sir Henry Amcoats, mayor, 1548. John Gurney, 'aldermaai, and his wife Anna. Weever has recorded this inscription : Here lyeth wrapt in Clay The Body of William Wray ; ]1 have no more to say. There are no modern monuments worthy of peculiar no tice. The church has no galleries, except at the west end, in which is a good organ. Among the rectors is recorded John Poynet, D. D. who held this living in commendam with the see of Rochester, till he was translated to the bishopric of Winchester, in 1551, upon the degradation of bishop Gardener. Being a Protestant, upon the accession of Mary I. he fled to Stras- burg, and died an exile in 1556, being scarcely forty j'ears of age. He was a prelate of extensive erudition, and an excellent mathematician, having presented to Henry VIII. a dial of his own invention, which shewed the hour, day of the month, sign of thesunj planetary hour, change of the moon, ebbing and flowing of tide, &c. These accom plishments, and his excellent sermons, were certain means of the preferments he obtained ; but were no security or shields against the unrelenting shafts of persecution. The diniensions of St. Michael's church are, length se venty-eight feet, breadth forty-six, altitude thirty-two, and that of the steeple to the top of the pinnacle, one hundred feet. The principal part of the building is hid from the street. A very LONDON. 4iS A very shocking accident occurred to the old church on the 5th of July 1560. Two men came to Crooked Lane to purchase guns, one of which burst, and some of the sparks passing into the hoUse of Adrian Arter, a Dutchman, set firfi to a barrel of gunpowder, the explosion of which de stroyed five houses, threw down great part of the church wall, and broke all the windows ; besides killing eight men and one woman, many others, being severely wounded, died within a week. Turning from Crooked Lane to Fish Street Hill, towards the bridge, was a large house, of stone, formerly the town residence of Edward the Black PS'ince. It was afterwards a common inn, and was levelled by the Great Fire. The south side of Thames Street, Was anciently called Stock-fishmonger Row, which extended as far as Ebgate Lane, now Old Swan Lane. FISHMONGERS' HALL. This elegant building, erected by Sir Christopher Wren, as a specinien of his grand intention to ornament the bank of the river Thames, had his plan for rebuilding the City taken place, commands a fine vi^w of the river and the bridge. It is a stately and capacious edifice of brick and stone ; and may be said to have two handsome fronts. The grand or fore front entrance is from Thames Street, by a handsome passage, that leads into a large square court, paved with flat stones, and encompassed by the great ball, the court room for the assistants, and other grand apart ments, with galleries. These are of an handsome construc tion, and are supported by Ionic columns, with an arcade. The back front, or that next the Thames, has a grand double flight of stone steps, by which is an ascent to the first apartments from the wharf. The door is adorned with Ionic columns, and these support an open pediment, in which is a shield, with the arms of the company. The windows are ornamented with stone eases, and the quoins of the building are wrought with a handsome rustic : and in the whole of this front there is a fine assemblage of solid beauty. 4% LONDON. beauty. Within the great hall is the statue of Sir William Walworth, knt. fishmonger ; and another of St. Peter, the patron saint of the company. The arms of the various be nefactors are also beautifully displayed in painted glass on the windows round the HaU Room. And in the Court Room are several pictures of the various sorts of vendible fi.shes, of which a catalogue of the species and varieties, with their seasons, have been printed. THE FISHMONGERS' COMPANY. This is the fourth upon the list of the city corporations, and have at all times beeti remarkable for their riches, their patriotism, and their public spirit, as may be seen in our history. They were originally two bodies, viz. stock- fishmongers and salt-fishmongers ; and both of them had no less than si.K halls ; two in Thames Street, tvvo in New Fish Street, and two in Old Fish Street ; and were in such re putation for valuable members, or, as Stow denominates them, "Jolly citizens,''^ that six lord mayors were chosen out of them in twenty-four years. But being charged with forestalling, contrary to the laws and constitutions of the City, they were fined five hundred marlcs by Edward I. in 1290 ; they were afterwards detected of such frauds in their deahngs, that tbe parliament, in 1382, enacted, "That no fishmonger should for the future be admitted mayor of this <;ity." * However, this prohibition was taken off"- the very next "» There seems to have been a premeditate^ spirit of persecution ex erted against these companies in antient times, which proceeded ffom } jealousy of their great wealth,' power, or number j but it is evident th?t in the above year, through the counsels of John Northamptoil, mayor, 'VVilliam Essex, John More, and Richard Northbury, the said fish mongers were greatly troubled for their greetings, hindered of their li berties, and aljnost destroyed by congregations made against them ; str that in a parliament at Lbiidon, the controversy depending betvVeen thjf piayor and aUJersneil of London, and the fishmongers there, Nicholj? Extoil, speskt;r for the fi?hraoilgers, prayed the king to receive him and the company under the immediate royal protection, lest they might re ceive corporal hurt. 'Whei'eupon it was commanded either party to keep the peace, upon pain of losing all they hjid : hereupon a fish monger LONDON. 477 next year. But, in 1384, these, as Well as all othcra cort- cerned in furnishing the city with provisions, were put un- iler the immediate direction of the lord mayor and aldermen by another act of parliament ; an act still in force. The salt-fishmongers were incorporated, A. D. 1433. The stock-fishmongers not till 1 509. But this separation proving prejudicial to both, they united, and obtained a cbarteif from king Henry VIII. in 1536, by which they were in corporated by the name bf The Wardens and Commonalty of the Mystery of Fishmongers of the city of London ; and it was established at the same time that one hall should serve the two companies j and this was appointed to be in the house given to them by Sir John Cornewall,.lord Fanhope, monger starting up, replied, " That the complaint brought against them by the movers, &c. was but matter -of malice, for that the fishmongers, in the reign of Edvirard III. being chief officers ofthe city, had for their misdemeanours then done, committed the chief exhibitors of those petitions to prison." In this parliament the fishmongers, by the king's charter patents, were restored to their liberties : notwithstanding, in the next year/ 1383, John Cavendish, fishmonger, craved the peace against the chancellbr 6f -England, which was granted, and he put in sureties the earls of Stafford and Salisbury. Cavendish then chaUenged the chancellor for taking a bribe of 10/. to favour his case, which the chancellor refuted by an oath on the Sacrament ; it was however proved. that the chancellor's man, without his master's privity, had accepteil the bribe ; yet Cavendish was committed to prison, and adjudged to pa|' one thousand marks for the slander. The above Northampton, was a troublesome magistrate, arid aiiRCd at reformation by mean» of riot and disturbance ; to suppresi hi* se ditious .spirit, the principal nobility assembled at, Reading, where, for his contumacy and rebellion, he was convicted and committed to per petual imprisonment, and his goods confiscated to the king. His trouble some abettors were sentenced to similar ptttiishments, aad the fish* mongers were thus enabled to enjoy themselves in peace.— J/ow. Pen* nam relates that there was a desperate feud between this and the Gold-* smiths' Company about precedency. The parties grew so violent, that the mayor and aldermen, by their own autharity, were obliged to pro nounce them rebels, and even bannifiati, banishing the city such Of them as persisted in their xContumaey. " I fear," says he, " in old times, the goldsmiths were a pugnacious society j fbr I read of a des perate battle in J,269, between them and the taylors." Vol.. II. No, 47. 3 P »^ 4T8 LOf^DON.': of Ampthull, in the parish of St. Michael, Crooked Lane, during the reign of Henry VI. At .present it is a livery company, and very rich ;,^ have had- near fifty lord mayors; and are governed by a prime and five other wardens, and a court, of assistants. - The Fishmongers' Company supports a free grammar school at Holt Market, .in Norfolk, founded by Sir John Gresham; Jesus Hospital, at Bray, in Berkshire, founded by William Goddard, Esq. for forty poor persons ; St Peter's Hospital, near Newington, Surrey, founded by the company ; twelve almshouses at Harrielsbam, in Kent, founded by Mr. Mark Quested ; a fellowship in Sidney Sussex college, Cambridge, founded by Mr. Leonard Smith ; a scholarship in the same college, founded by M'iJliam Ben net, Esq. Mr. Smith's executor. The sums expended by this company for charitable usesi amount to upwards of SOOl. Westward of Old Swan Lane, at the south end of White Cock Alley, stood Dyer's Hall, which being destroyed by the fire in 1666, the site was let out by the company, and is now converted into warehouses. The DYERS' COMPANY were incorporated in the second year of the reign of Edwaed IV. A.D. 1472, by the name of The JVardens and Commonalty of the Mystery of Dyers, ¦JLondpji,. with the privilege of keeping swans upon the, Thames. It is now governed by two wardens, and a court of ass-i'staats : was anciently one of the twelve companies; bht noV only ranks as the thirteenth, and enjoys the -privi lege of a livery. Their hall is in Elbow Lane. ' Beyond this is Cold HaIibour, corruptly called Coal Harbour ; a, narrow lane inhabited mostly by coopers ; at the south-west angle of which stood Watermen's Hall, which 'having been rebuilt on St. Mary Hill, Billingsgate, has beea there described. ' ¦. " • ¦ This place, was^ so called from its bleak situation. No -historical account occurs of this harbour or inn' till thereio'n ¦of Edward II. vvhep Sir Jphn Abel, knight, demised or let to Henry Stow, Draper, " all his- capital messuage, called the LONDON. 'ms the" Cold Hak'e'rough, in the pamsh' of ^AU Saints ad Foenum, or at the Hay-wharf, and all the '"appurtenances within the 'gate, with the key which Robert Hartford, ci tizen, son to William Hartford, had and ought, and the foresaid Robert paid for it the rent of 33.?. the year. This Robert Hartford,, being owner thereof, as also of other lands in Surrey, deceasing without male issue, left two daughters his coheirs, to wit, Idonea, niEirried to Sir Ralph Bigot; and Maud, married to Sir Stephen Cosenton, knts. between whom the house and lands were parted. John Bigot, son to Sir Ralph, and Sir .John Cosenton, sold their .moieties of Cold Harbrough to Sir John Poultney, son of Adam Poultney, the Sth of Edward III. Sir John Poultney, dwel ling in this house, and being four times mayor, gave to the premises the name of Poultney's inn. Sir John, the 2lEt of Edward III. by his charter, gave and confirmed to Humfrey de Bohun, earl of Hereford and Essex, his .whole tenement, called Cold Harbrough, with all the tene ments and key adjoining, and appurtenances some time per taining to Robert de Hartfocd, on the way called Hay- Wharf-Lane, &c. for one rose at midsummer to him and his heirs, for all service^, if the same were demanded. Sir John Poultney deceased 1349, and left issue, by Margaret his wife, William Poultney, who died without issue : and Margaret, his mother, was married to Sir Nicholas Lovel, knt. &c. Philip St. Clear gave two jnessuages, pertaining to this Cold Harbrough, in the Ropery, towards the en larging of the chiirch • and church3'ard of All Saints, called the Less, in the SOth of Richard II." In the year 1397, the 21st of ¦ Richard II. John^Holland, earl of Huntingdon, was lodged here, and Richard II. his brother, dined with him. 'It was th6h accounted " a very fair and, statelj' house." *Nex:t year Edmund, earl of 'Cam bridge, had this house, and lodged -in it during the 'year 1398 ; though it still retain'ed the lia'me of Poultney's inn, in the reign of Henry VL the 26th of his reign. In 1410, it was granted by Henry IV. to his son HeflryV prince of ^ajes. The bouse belonged afterwards to H. Tlol&rSJ 3 P 2 duk^ 480 LONDON. di^e of Exeter, and he was lotl^ed thpre in the year 1472. Jn the year 1485, Richard XH', by his letters patent, granted and gave to John Writh, alias Garter principal king at arms of Englishman, and to the rest of the king's heralds ahd pursuivants of arms, all that messuage with the appur tenances, called Cold Erber, in the parish of All Saints the ^.ess, in London, and their successors for ever. Dated at Westminster, the 2d of March, anno regni sui primo, without fine or fee. In the reign of Henry VIIL the bishop of Durham's house, near Charing Cross, being taken into the king's hand, Cuthbert Tonstal> bishop pf Durham, was lodged there. This great house bishop Tonstal enjoyed to 1553, the ]ia,Ht year of king Edward VI. when, the bishop having been deposed from his bishopric, they took from him this house also ; which the king granted to the earl of Shrewsbury, ^ith tbe appurtenances to the said messuage belonging, to gether with six houses or tenements in the parish of St. Dunstan in the East, and divers other lands in the county of York, to him and his heirs, to the yearly value of 66l. I6s. lob. The teste of 'the patent was the SOth of June, tbe king dying but sis; or seven days after. Duck's-Foot Lane, is a corruption of Du^foird Lane, from, probably, a former owner. Suffolk Lane is honoured by the situation of MERCHANT TAYJ^ORS' SCHOOL. Here was formerly a large mai^sion, called The Manor OF THE Rosn, so called (pfobably, in honour of the York family, which he cspouspd^ by Henry Stafford, dpke of Buckingbam, the agent ^nd tqol of Riphard III. This man seems tq have been di|-£cted by jnercenary views inaUhis, proceedings ; fqr his grandfather, HHmfrey Stafford, dujie pf Buckingham) having been slain in the b,attle of Northr amptOR ; an4 hi§ father Humfrey, the duke's son, having fallen in the battle of St. Alban's, both fighting for the f overnment of the house of Lancaster ; H^nry, o^ whom we are iipw speaJfing, having n^arried Catharipp Wood- viUe, LONDON. 481 ville, daughter pf Earl Rivers, and niece to Edward IV. became a principal confident of Richard, duke of Glo cester, gave him the first account of the death of Ed ward IV. and offered his services to Richard. These were too important not to be accepted ; considering Richard's ambitious projects to obtain the crown. These co-adjutors in treason and murder, therefore, concerted the destruction of Edward V. and his brother ; to unite more firmly this unworthy duke to his interest, Richard, now Protector, heaped titles and riches so profusely, that the Protector boasted " he had as many liveries of Stafford's knots, as tlichard Nevile, the great earl of Warwick, had of ragged Haves," alluding to the ensigns which they bore. Borne down by promises, he stuck at'nothing to promote Richard's interest ; apd the History of England too plainly marks the iniquitous proceedings of the duke of Buckingham, to raise the fortunes of so base a master. At last utged, ei ther by remorse for his iniquity, or slight from the kino- he had raised, he took the side of Henry, earl of Richmond. Richard having notice of this plot against his safety, re newed his promises ; but these now coming too late, he had recourse to threats. The duke of Buckingham upon this resorted to arms, and marching to the Severn to join his confederates, an extraordinary flood stopped his progress. The forces he had raised deserted him, and he was com pelled to seek shelter in the house of one Humfrey Ban nister, a wretch whom he had raised from obscurity. This feUow ungratefully betrayed hjs benefactor, in hopes of lOOOl. which had been promised by proclamation ; but -when he came to demand the reward of his treachery, the king refused, remarking, " he that would be untrue to so good a master, would be unfaithful to every pther." Tlie duke was beheaded at Salisbury, without any forni of trial, in the year 1485. His son, though restored in honour by Henry VII. was he- beaded for imputed treason, sorcery, &c. by Henry VIIL and the Manor of the Rose probably was forfeited to the crown. In 1561, Richard HiUs, formerly master of the merchant 4S2 LONDON. merchant taylors' company, purchased the house and manor for 500/. and in the mansion founded Merchant Taylors' School. The old structure having been defi^royed by the fire in 1666, the present fabric was constructed on its site, at the charge of the company. The school is a long and spacious building, supported oil the east by many stone pillars, forming a handsome cloister. Adjoining to the school is a library, supported also by pil lars of stone : and south of the library is the part called the chapel. This' school consists of six, or more truly of eight forms, where near three hundred boys have their education ; whereof by the statutes of the school an hundred are taught gratis ; fifty at 2s. 6d. a quarter, and one hundred at 5s. a quarter. And, for the due instruction of these, the school maintains a master, whose salary is 10/. 6s. a year, and 30.?. for water, besides, the quarterage for the pay scholars ; which make his income very considerable.: and three ushers, the first with 30/. per aH7iU7n salary, and the other two at 25/. each per amium. And, for the better inquiry into the proficiency of all the scholars, there is an order appointed for the probation ofthe school to be made only by the master and the three ushers. The first probation to be on the 1 1th day of March, the second on, the Ilth of September, the third on the Ilth of December, not being Sundays, and then upon the next day following. In the year 1645 the company of merchant taylors ap pointed a fourth probation, upon the motion of Mr. Dugard, then chief mailer, besides these three, on the 15th day of June yearly. It vvas further thought fit afterwards, for the satisfaction of the master and wardens, and court of assistants of the mer chant taylors, as well for the true and faithful performance of the probation of the master and the three ushers, as like wise to know what boys profit most, and be the best and like liest scholars; that the probations themselves should have their examination and trial, to be done at two several times every 3'ear. And this examination to be made by two judi cious LONDO^^ 4S3 pious men, -ivell learned in Hebrew, Greek, and Latin, be ing by the master and wardens ;thereunto required two .or three days .before. The place of examination to be in tha soiithpart of the school, commonly called the chapel. The time to be between the 1 1th and 21st days of the months of March and September ; and the whole business to be so -or dered, that the examination be fully done between the hours of six and eleven. The master and wardens, or two of them, to be at the school with the two learned men at six o'clock in the morning. Upon these days, wlych are called the doctor's days, after the business of examination is finished, the audience return into the school, where certain public exef cises are then per formed by the eight senior scholars or monitors of the school. Another public examination of the scholars of the upper form, by the president and fellows of Sti John Baptist col lege in Oxford, takes place on the Ilth day of June yearly. This is previous to the election of scholars to be made upon tha:t day, to fill up the vacant fellowships in St. John's col lege ; of the fellows of which college, thirty-seven are sup plied from this school. After the public exercises of this day are fiuished, the dean of the college addresses himself to the scholars, out of whose number the vacancies are to be filled, up, in a Latin speech suited to this occasion. The gentlemen brought up at this school, citizens and others, began an annual feast in 1698. The collections made at these feafts, amounting to a considerable sum, they lay out upon exhibitions, to be allowed to such of the ^chool as are superannuated, and miss of elections. Among the eminent masters and scholars of this excellent foundation we select the following : RicttARD MuLCASTER, elected 1561, afterwards master of St. Paul's school, rector of Stamford Rivers, Essex, and author of a.tracl, called " The Education of Children," and " The Elementary for the true writing of the English Tongue." Nicholas Grey, D. D. formerly master of the Charter house school, elected 1624. He continued here till he was appointed to' the head mastership of Et/)n , college in 1631. ^ During 484 LONDON. During the civil wars, when merit was compelled to sink under the intemperate policy of the times. Dr. Grey was ejected from his government of Eton college, and was ap pointed master of Turtbridge school, where he continued unmolested till the Restoration, when hewas re-established in the charge to wbich he had done so much credit. He was author of a Latin and P^nglish dictionary. William Due ARD, elected May 10, 1644. He also felt the rigours of persecution. He was discharged from the government of the school, and committed to Newgate by the council of state, Feb. 20, 1649; the cause of offence was, that having a property in a printing office, he had printed Salmasius's Defence of King Charles I. dedicated to his right and lawful heir King Charles LI. During his confinement he had nothing to support himself, his wife, and six chil dren, but what the mercy of God afibrded ; * after his print- - ing types, to the value of' 1000/. at least, had been destroyed. Mr. Dugard having at length procured his enlargement, kept a private school on St. Peter's Hill, Doctor's Commons, till he was reinstated in the school of which he had been deprived, in 1650, at tbe instance of the very council of state who had so cruelly punished him. In 1661, he was finally discharged by the Company for breaking some of their rules, after a ser vice of seventeen years. Such, lipwever, was his reputation, that when he opened a private school in Coleman Street, he had in the course of eight months no less than a hundred and ' • Ad SOFebruarii, 1649. Atque hxc sunt nomina discipulorum quo* ego Gulielmus Dugard, in scholam liboram dignissimx tocietatis Merca- torum ScisEorum admissia 10 Maii 1644, ad 20 Feb. 1649, quo tempore a Conciho Novi status ab archididascalatus officio summatus, & in carce- rem Novae Port.-e conjutus sum ; ob hanc praecipuc causam quod C|^udii Salmasii librum qui inscribiturDEFENSIO regia firo GAROLO/rforz* ad serenissimum regem CAROLllM secuntiam, legitimum kitredem et sMcessa.f rum typis mandandum curaveram : Typographeo integro spoliatus ad va lorem raille librarum, ininimum. Nihil jam reliquum habent unde vic- tum qu:eram mxori et sex liberie, quos Dei miserecordis et benignissimi Patris providenthe alendos committo & commendo per Jesum Christum Dominum nostrum. Register of the Scholars of Merchant Tqylars' School, Sion CoUege Library.. ninety. LONDON. 4§5 ninety-three scholars. Mr. Dugard was a diligent, ex act, and very learned man in every kind of grammatical knowledge ; it is therefore not surprising that the school flou- jislied eminently whilst he was master. He was a. good ora tor and poet, and printed several books .for the use of his school. John Goad, B. D. master of Tunbridge school, succeeded Mr. Dugard in 1661, and continued till 1681 with great suc cess and approbation, till some fanatical sectaries urging that he-wished to instil popish notions by means pf his Comment on the Church Catechism, used by his scholars, he was called before the company, who disniissed him with the gra tuity of a handsome servipe of plate. The particulars of this transaction are, related in the pqstscript of a .bP.ok entitled " Contrivances of the fanatical Conspirators, in carrying on the Treasons under umbrage of the Popish Plot laid open : vvith Depositions, &c. London, 1683." In this book Mr. Goad is styled " a pious aud learned person, so extraordina rily qualified for his profession, that a better could not be found in the three kingdoms." After his dismission, he took a house in Piccadilly, to which place the genteeler part of his scholars followed him; ^nd there he died, October 28, 1689. John Hartcliffe, A. M. succeeded'; he was afterwards D. D. and canon of Windsor. Ambrose Bonwicke, B. D. his successor, held the school from 1686 till 1691, when refusing to take the oaths, he was ejected, and afterwards kept a private school at Epsom. Matthew SnbRTiNG, D. D. fellow collegian of Mr. Strype. , Thomas Parsell, B. D. elected April 30, 1707, who pubhshed " Liturgia seu Liber Precum communium," &c. \yhich prayer-book has been often reprinted. The last of the respected hat of masters~which we shall no^ tice is the late Rev. Samuel Bishop, A. M. This excellent scholar succeeded Mi'. Tgwnley, rector of St. Stephen, Wal brook, in 1783. He was also rector of St. Martin Outwich, and of Thames Ditton. . Mr. Bishop was a worthy man, and generally beloved; and though the task of being head master of a large school must have been very arduous, he found leisure to write poetry in a very respectable style ; but VoL.n. No. 48. 3a "too 486 LONDON. " too modest to force himself upon the notice of the public, and entirely devoted to the laborious duties of his employ ment, he had neither inclination nor opportunity to print any of those numerous and iexquisite poems which he wrote within the last twenty years of his life." After his death, which happened on November 17, 1795, they were published by subscription, for the benefit of his family.* • One of Mr. Bishop's poetic effusions we submit to our readers : — aUOD PETIS HIS EST. NO plate had John and Joan to hoard. Plain folk, in humble plight ; One only tankard crown 'd their board, And that was fill'd each night. -Along whose inner bottom sketch'd. In pride of chubby grace. Some rude engraver's hand had etch'd A baby angel's face. John swallow 'd first a moderate sup ; But Joan was not like John ; For, when her lips once touch'd the cup, .She swill'd till all was gone. John often urg'd her to drink fair, But she ne'er chang'd a jot; ",She lov'd to see t^e angel there, And therefore drain'd the pot." 'When John found all remonstrance vain. Another card he play'd ; And where the angel stood so plain, , He got a devil pourtray'd. John saw the horns, Joan saw the tail, Yet Joan as stoutly quaff'd ; And ever, when she seized her ale, She clear'd it at a draught. John star'd, with wonder petrify'd. His hairs rose on his pate : And " Why dost guzzle'now," he cry'd, " At this enormous rate ?" " Oh John," .says she, " am I to blame ? J can't in conscience stop j For sure 'twould be a burning shame 2i3 ifai'c the devil a dro/i." Dr. LONDON. 487 Dr. Richard Latewar, an ingenious Latin poet, and chap lain to queen Elizabeth ; Dr. Matthew Gwinne, professor of medicine in Gresham college; Dv. John Rawlinson, chaplain to James I. ; Dr. John Buckeridge, bishop of Rochester, 16115 Dr. Launcelot Andrews, bishop of Winchester ; Sir James Whitelock, justice of the court of Common Pleas, and one of the first fellows of the Society of Antiquarians ; Dr. John Speed, son of the historian, an eminent physician and ana tomist; Dr. Rowland Searchfield, bishop of Bristol; Dr. Ik>bert Boyle, bishop of Waterford ; Dr. George Wilde, bishop of Londonderry ; Lord keeper Whitelock ; Dr. Jo seph Henshaw, bishop of Peterborough ; Dr. Edward Ber nard, Savilian professor of astronomy in the university of Oxford ; Archbishop Juxon ; Dr. More, bishop of Bath and Wells ; Sir William Dawes, archbishop of York ; Sir John Cook, L. L. D. dean of the Arches ; Dr. John Thomas, bishop of Lincoln; Dr. Joseph W'ilcocks, bishop of Rochester; Dr. John Gilbert, archbishop of York, &c. occur among the many eminent scholars who received the rudiments of their education in Mprchant Taylors' School, Opposite Suffolk Lane, in Thames Street is the church yard, and part of the wall of ALHALLOWS THE LESS:. this church was also called Alhallows on the.Cellars, because it stood upon vaults let out for cellaring. Being a rectory, it was originally in the gift of the bishops of Winchester, and rebuilt by Sir John Poultney, who purchased the advowson and appropriated it to his college of St. Laurencp. The ' steeple and choir of Alhallows the Less stood on an arched gate-way, leading to the mansion of Cold Harbour, already Cientioned. After the purchase and appropriation, the living became a donative or curacy, and coming to the crown, as an appendage to the monastic foundation of St. Laurence Poultney college, queen Elizabeth granted it on a lease for twenty-one years to William Verle ; at the end of whigh Jamps I. sold it to William Blake, &c. and their heirs in free soccage for ever. It was destroyed by the fire in 1666, and the parish united to that of Alhallosvs the Great, Between Hay -Wharf Lane and Alhallows Lane, stands tlic parochial church of , r tt a t t ^r^r-. ^ 3 Q 2 ALHALLOWS 438 LONDON. ALHALLOWS THE GREAT. IT is denominated the Great, to distinguish it from its neighbouring ruin, and was called, as we have before noted, ad fee num in the Ropery, from its vicinity to .a hay- wharf and its situation among rope-makers, M'ho antiently bad their "walks here. The church is a rectory, founded by the noble familj' of the Despensers, the favourites of Edward II. and the family presented to the living in the year 1361. From them it passed with the heiress tothe earl of Warwick and Salisbur}?; and at last to the crown, by settlement from the widow of Richard Nevil, earl of Warwick, upon king Henry VII. Henry VIII. exchanged this church with the archbishop of Canterbury in the thirty-seventh year of his reign, who, for the time being, has continued patron of the hving; and it is numbered amongst the peculiars of that see. The antient church was very handsome, with a large cloister on the south side, sur rounding the church.yard, and was rich and beautiful within. But' it fell in the general conflagration of the city in 1666. The present edifice was finished in 1683, planned by Sir Christopher Wren, but not executed with the same accuracy that it was designed. The church is eighty-seven feet long, sixty LONDON. 439 sixty feet broad, and thirty-three feet high to the roof, built of stone, and is very solid. The walls are plain and massy; the ornaments are few and simple, and the windows, though large, in order to enlighten such a considerable breadth, are not numerous. The tower is plain, square, and divided into five stages, but terminates absolutely square and plain, with out spire, turret, or pinnacles. The cornice is supported by scrolls, and over these rises a balustrade of solid construc tion, suitable to the rest of the building. It is well finished and ornamented within, and is very beautiful in its simplicity ; without pillars, and the walls are slightly coved from the cornice ; the roof is flat, and there are no galleries, ex cept one for the organ. The altar is an elegant design in the Corinthian order, and there are two very good stone figures of Moses and Aaron, about four feet high, as orna ments. A handsome niarble altar table is supported by a caryatide. On the front of the organ gallery is a fine figure in alto relievo of Charity treading on Elivy and Avarice, very spiritedly expressed. The pulpit, standing against the north wall,- has most excellent carved work; and exhibits little naked boys, supporting festoons of fanciful and delicate workmanship. The chancel is separated from the body of tlie church by a fine piece of carved work, consisting of small open twisted . columns with their arches, in the middle of which are two open carved pilasters (on both sides of the door-case) with their architrave, friese, cornice, and large open pediment of the Composite order; at the upper part of the door-case is carved a large eagle displayed, and over that the queen's arms, with supporters, &c. and these (on the cornice of this partition) between two smaller pediments ; in the middle are two shields with fine compartments beautifully carved in wainscot. This exquisite specimen of wrought work was performed at Hamburgh, and presented to the church, as a token of the antient connexion between this country and the Hanse towns, tof which the Stilyard in this parish was the principal place pf commerce. The agent of the Hanse towns has still a 3 ' P^^^ 490 LONDON. pew in the church; but there are no monuments worthy of observation. Among the rectors are to be noticed the following eminent characters: — William Lichfield, D. D. who compiled many works sacred and moral, particularly " The Plaint of God unto sirful Man." He composed no less fban three thousand and eighty-three sermons, and died in 1447. Ed ward Strong, D- D. chancellor of the university of Cam bridge, bishop of Carlisle, 1468, and of Chichester, 1477. ¦This prelate built Chichester cross. George Day, D. D, provost of King's college, Cambridge, and bishop of Chi chester, 1543. Under Edward VI. he was deprived and im prisoned, but restored by Mary I. and died in 1556. .Thomas White, D.D. bishop of Peterborough, 1685. William Cave, D. D. canon of Windsor, chaplain to Charles II. and author of " The Lives of the Apostles and Fathers," and other eminent works. William Vincent, D. D. high master of Westminster school, 1788, now dean of West minster, and author of " The Voyage ofNearchus to the Eu phrates," " The Periplus of the Erythrean Sea," and other leamed and critical works. In Bush Lane is the house of the Governor and Com pany OF Copper Mines in England. This company was incorporated by letters patent, in the 3d of William and Mary, 1691. The charter was confirmed by queen Anne, in 1710 ; and by sub.sequent grants their power of working mines was extended to Ireland, and other partsof the British dominions. The Stilyard, corruptly Steelyard, lies close to Cosin's Lane, so called from William Cosin, who dwelt here, and was sheriff of London, 1306. 'This was originally the hall of the Almaine, Hanseatic or German merchants; and where they had warehouses for wheat, rye, and other grain ; as also for cables, ropes, pitch, tar, masts, hemp, flax, linen, wain scots, wax, steel, &c. Henry III. in the forty-fourth year of his reign, 1259, at tbe request of his brother Richard, carl of Cornwall, and king of the Romans, granted, " that all and singular the merchants, having a house in the citj' of London, commonlj' called GitildaAula Teutonicorum, should bC5 LONDON. ' 491 be maintained and upholden through the whole realm, by all such freedom, and free usages or liberties, as by the king, and in his noble progenitors' time, they had enjoyed," &c. Under Bishopsgate, we have mentioned tbat these mer chants engaged to repair tliat gate, for this the mayor and citizens " granted to the said merchants their liberties, whicli they long enjoyed; as namely, amongst the other things, that they might lay up their grain, which they brought into this realm, in inns, and sell it in their garners, within the space tf forty days after they had laid it up, except by the mayor and citizens they were expressly forbidden, because of dearth, or other reasonable occasions. Also they might have their alderman, as they had been accustomed, pro vided always he were of the city, and presented to the mayor and aldermen of the city, as often as any should be chosen, and should take the oath before them to maintain justice in their courts, and to behave themselves in their office according to law, and as it 5tood with the customs of the city." A grant of such privilege might probably have suited the exigency of those early times, when commerce was in its infancy ; but as navigation and expansive commercial intercourse increased, it was found necessary to abridge and ultimately to annul such impolitic grants to aliens. This was evident about the time of Henry IV. when the English began to trade for thems'elves into the eastern parts of the globe ; for the Easterlings, or merchants of the Dutch Hanse, were so offended, that they captured several of their ships and goods, and offered them several other injuries ; which occasioned great complaints and differences betweep king Henry and Conradus de Junigeri, then master general of the Dutch order in Prussia with the Hanse towns, and fe veral embassies pas.sed on that occasion ; the result of which was, " That the said king Henry IV. finding, by the said privileges granted to foreigners, his own subjects (to the great prejudice of the realm) very much crippled in their trade, did revoke spch parts of the privileges of the afore- .said Dutch company, as were inconsistent with the carrying on 492 - LONDON. on trade by the natives of this realm :" and for the bet ter encouragement of his own subjects, did, in the fifth year of his reign, grant his first charter to the Merchants trading into the East-Land, containing many great privileges and inimunities : which had a good effect for the bringing of the trade much more into the hands of the natives of this realm than it was before. King Edward IV. for their more ample encouragement, did, in the second year of his reign, grant another large charter to the Merchants of England, especiallj'^ to those residing in the Netherlands ; with several additional immunities and privileges. In king Edward the Vlth's reign the . Steelyard mer chants behaved so scandalously, that his majesty seized upon their charter. In the first and second of Philip and Mary was granted a charter to the Russia company, afterwards confirmed by act of parliament in the eighth year of Queen Elizabeth. Until this time, though the trade of England was car ried on much more by the natives than had been formerly, yet had the society of the Dutch Hanse at the Steelyard a superior advantage over them, by meaifs of their well regulated societies, and the privileges they enjoyed; in somuch that almost the whole trade was driven by theni to that degree, that Queen Elizabeth herself, when she came to have a war, was forced to buy the hemp, pitch, tar, powder, and other naval provisions which she wanted, of foreigners, at very enormous rates. Nor were there any stores of ei ther in the land to supply her occasions on a sudden, but what, at vast prices, she prevailed with them to procure for her, even in time of war, her own subjects being then but very inconsiderable traders. To remedy which, no better expedient could be found by Elizabeth and her council, than by , encouraging her own subjects to be merchants; which she, did by erecting out of them several societies of merchants, as that of ,the East-land company, and other companies ; by which ineans, and by cancelling many of the privileges of the Dutch Hanse society, the trade in general, by degrees, came to be LONDON. ' 493 fee managed by the natives of England; and consequently the profits of all those trades accrued to the English ; trade in general, and English shipping, were increased ; her own customs vastly augmented ; and, what was at first the great ePd of all, obtained ; so that she had constantly lying at home, in the hands of her own subjects, all sorts of naval provisions and stores, which she could make use of without any dependance on her neighbours. The Haunse merchants had two halls in this place. One of which was that adjoining Cosin's Lane*; but their ^wealth and power increasing, they hired an adjoining man sion, which had belonged to Richard Lions, a considerable * In the great hall of this company were the two famous pictures, painted in distemper by Holbein, representing the triumphs of Riches and 'Poverty. They were lost, being supposed to have been carried into Flanders, on the destruction of the company. Mr. Pennant imagin ed them to be in the possession of M. Fleischman, at Hesse Darm stadt. The celebrated Christian a Mechel, of Basil, in the last century, published two engravings of these pictures, either from the originals, or the drawings by Zucchero ; for Frid. Zucchero, 1574, is at one corner of each pri.'it. Drawings of these pictures were found in England by 'Vertue, ascribed to Holbein ^ and the verses over them to Sir Thomas More. It appears that Zucchero copied them at the Steelyard, so prpbably those copies, in process of time, might have fallen into thft hands of M. Fleischman. In the Triumph oj Riches, Plutus is represented in a golden "car, and Fortune sitting before him, flinging money into the laps of people hold ing vip their garments to receive her favours : "Ventidius is wrote under 'one^ Gadareus under another 4 and Themisto-cles under a man kneeling beside, the car : Croesu-s, Midas, and Tantalus, follow 5 Narcissus holds; the horse of the first : over their heads in the clouds is Nemesis. There are various allegorical figures.. By the sides of the horses walk drop- «ical and other diseased figures, the too frequent attendants of Riches. Poverty appears in another car, mean and shattered, half naked, squallid and rneagre. Behind her sits Misfortune ; before her Memory, lixperience, Industry, and Hope. The car is drawn by a pair of oxen, and a pair of asses,; Diligence drives the ass; and Sohcitude, with a face -of care, goads the ox. By the side of the car walks La- 'bquc, nepresented -by lusty workmen with their tools, with cheerful iooks^ and behind them Misery, and Beggar)', in ragged weeds, and ¦with countenances replete with wretchedness and discontent." London, page ,293. Vol. II. No. 48. 3 R ' lapidary, 494 LONDON. lapidary, and sheriff of London, in the forty-ninth year of the reign of Edward III. ; and, who was dragged from hi* bouse and beheaded in West Cheap, by the Kentish rebels> in the fourth year of the reign of Richard II. The way to this house was called V/indgoose Lane ; which, on account of the incroachment of the Stillyard, was diminished to Windgoose Alley. These premises also covered the house of the abbot of St. Alban's, and a quay, wiiich had been granted to him ; as well as another great house which John Rainwell, mayor, had given to the mayor and commonalty for charitable purposes. The Steelyard is now a large open place, with two wide passages for carts, to the river side, where is a crane, and stairs for landing iron, of which here are always l^ge quaur tities kept. In this yard are some good houses for mer chants who trade in iron, for which it is at present in great repute, but was formerly of greater, when possessed by the merchants of Ajmaine. The front in Thames Street is a long blank wall, with an arched gateway, over which is, placed the Spread Eagle, to distinguish its former conse quence. Alhallows the Great is almost a parish of warehouses, and , the wharf from the Steelyard to Dyer's Hall is occupied by Felix Calvert and Co.'s brewery ; (which was originally built hy " one Pot," in Stow's time, and afterwards occupied by Henry Campion, Esq. and Abraham his son, who gave their name to the lane ;) antd by vast piles of bar iron im ported from Russia ; but the passages to- the river are so narrow and dirty, and the warehouses in many instances so decayed, that all the appearance of opulent residence has vanished. Westward of Cosin's Lane is Dowgate, whence the ward takes its name, and of which we have already given a de scription in the present volume P. Checquer Yard, on the east side of Dowgate Hill, was f«rmeiiy called Checquer Lane, from a brewery, and after- * Page 92. wardsi LONDON. 495 'wards an inn bearing that sign ; as was Carter Lane^ now Bush Lane, for its stables belonging to carmen. It is necessary to observe here that the Checquers, usually attached to public liouses, was the armorial bearing of tbe Warrens, earls of Surrey, who had a grant of the ex clusive power to licence 'houses of entertainment ; and that the cpllection of the dues for such licences might be more easily obtained, the arms of Warren was attached to those houses ; and a conjecture is also probable, that on the same account, in token of respect to the Warrens, some of th« frequenters of these houses might have invented the Game of Draughts, or Checquers. In the reign of Mary I. that queen renewed the above licence, in favour of the earl of Arundel, who had bejn her steady supporter; and was also a collateral descendant from the Warrens. The Checquers or and azure, at present form one of the quarterings in the shield of the noble family of Howard, also collaterally de scended from tbe Warrens, In this yard is PLUMBER's HALL, a mere private house, for transacting the concerns of tbe company. The Company of PLUMBERS are of antient date ; but were not incorporated till the reign of James I. pn the 12th of April 1611, by the name of The Master, IVarderis, and Commonalty of tlie Mystery of Plumbers of London ; and they are governed by a master, two wardens, a court of as sistants, and a livery. Turnwheel Lane, winds from Dowgate Hill to Can non Street. In this lane was the ancient palace called, for distinction's sake, THE ERBER, Probably a corruption of Harbour or Inn. Traces of its origin are unattainable ; and its history goes no further than the reign of Edward III. when that monarch, granted it to the noble family of Scroope ; from them it came into the possession of the Neville's ; the earl of Salisbury, father in law to the great earl of Warwick, lodged here, with five hundred men, in the famous congress of the Barons, during 3 R 2 the 49S LONDON. the year 1458, after the battle of St. Alban's ; of which an ample account is given in various Histories .of this Realm'*. Here Henry VI. was virtuallj' deposed ; and the Erber, on the death of Richard Neville, earl of Warwick, who vvas slain in the battle of Barnet, descended to George, duke of Clarence, who had married Isabel, , daughter of the earl. Having often changed masters, it came at last by attainder to the crown. In the third year of the reign of Henry VIII. he "bestowed it on John, earl of Oxford; next year it was given to Sir Thomas Boleyn ; and in the following year the versatile monarch restored the whole, by letters patent, to Margaret Plantagenet, countess of Salisbury, daughter and heir of the above Duke of Clarence, who, in consequence of this restitution, took possession of the premises. The birth and other valuable qualifications of this prin cess, caused her to be held in such high consideration at court, that Henry and Catharine of Arragon made choice of her as governess to the princess Mary ; and the countess ac quitted herself with great honour. But, in consequence of the king's new connexion with the unfortunate Anna Bo leyn, the countess of Sahsbury lost her honours, and tbe esteem of Henry. She had delivered her opinion very freely upon the subject of divorce to the king, and her son, cardinal Reginald Pole, had reproached Henry with un lawful passions. Such joint af][ronts irritated the tyrant; he caused a bill of attainder to pass against the countess and her son, the cardinal, who was banished ; and Margaret, without being heard in her defence, was condemned and beheaded in the To^yer, May 27, 1541. Previous to her death, the executioner directed her to lay her head on the block, which she refused to do; telling him, that "she knew of no guilt, and would not submit to die like a traitor." He pursued her round the scaffold, aiming at her hoary head, and at length struck it off; after manghng the poor victim, of seventy years of age, in the most barbarous ipan- per ?— With her ended the royal line of Plantagenet. * Lyttelton's Hist, of England, 11.61, LONDON. 491 By her murder the Erber came to the crown. Henry, in the thirty second year of his reign, gave it to Sir Philip Hoby, who, fonr years afterwards, sold it to a draper, named Doulphin. From him the Draper's Company' pur chased it in the first year of Mary I. It seems to have been re-sold to Sir Thomas Pullison, a draper, and lord mayor in 1584, who rebuilt the premises, which were afterwards ho noured by being the residence of Sir Francis Drake. St. MARY BOfHAW. This church was so called from a boat-haw, or yard, where formerly vessels were landed from Dowgate to be re paired. Near this church were lands and houses belonging to the priory and convent of Christ Church, Canterbury; which priory V/ibert, in 1167, granted for a yearly rent of ten shillings ; and giving on St. John Baptist's Day a , towel, worth sd. to the hostellary, besides two pitchers, worth six pieces of money {nummos sex, equal to the ses tertius, in value 2d.) and a salt-sellar, worth four pieces. ."The church was repaired in 1621,- but being levelled at the Great Fire, its site now serves as a burial ground, and the parish was united to that of St. Swithen. The house of Henry Fitz Alwine, first lord mayor cf London, was in this parish ; .and it has bepn said he was buried here\ Stow, however, positively assprts that he was entombed in the priory church of the Holy Trinity, Aldgate. At the south-west corner of St. Swithen's Lane, is situated Jbf parish church of , St. SWITHEN, 498 LONDON. St. SWITHEN, LONDON STONE. St. SWITHEN, a very pious person, was first ordained priest at Winchester, then made chancellor and president of the council to king Egbert; and successor to Elmston in the bishopric of Winchester. When he found death approach ing, gave charge, that they should bury him in the church yard, that he might not be worshipped after his death* which happened in the year 806 *. Goscelin, in his life, gives him the following character, well worth reading: "Being to dedicate any church, he neither used horse, nor any secular pomp; but being ac companied with his clericks and those of his family, with * How well his dying request was complied with, the following state ment must specify. After having lain one hundred years undisturbed , in the days of king Edgar, his relics were taken up and translated into the cathedral. Here, as might be supposed, by the agents of avarice and superstition, many miracles were wrought; one of which, men tioned by the grave 'William of Malmesbury, we cannot omit, because the monk says, " he had seen the man." This man having had his eyes niiolently dug om, was, by the prayers of the dead saint, restored to both €yes and s'lght. No wonder then, that the cathedral church of 'Win-> Chester, which had been dedicated to St. Peter the Apostle, should give place in miracle to St. Swithen ! all LONDON. 499 all humility he went bare foot to the place. His feasting was not with the rich ; but with the needy and poor. His- mouth was always open to invite sinners to repentance : he ever admonished such as were standing to beware of fal ling ; and such as had fallen to arise again without delay. He was sparing and moderate in his diet, taking not what would fill, but what would barely sustain nature : and as to sleep, be admitted no more than what after long watching and much labour was absolutely necessary. He was ever dehghted with psalms and spiritual canticles; and in his conversation, delivered always with modesty and humility such speeches as were most, edifying and profitable to bis hearers." The church of St. Swithen was of antient foundation ; and in the year 1331 was a rectory in the patronage of the prior and convent of Tortington, in the county of Sussex. The fabric was rebuilt and augmented in the year 1420, chiefly at the expence of Sir John Hind, lord mayor in the years 1 ^9 1 and 1 404. At the dissolution of monasteries- the pa tronage came to the crown, when it was granted to the earl of Oxford ; ahd was at length purchased by the worshipful com pany of Salters, in whom the presentation still continues, al ternately with the united pasish of St. Mary Bothaw. The church was again repaired in the years 1607, and 16Q8, as well a.s a short time before the Great Fire in 1666, when 1000/. were expended for that purpose. After the defi;ruc- tion of the former edifice by the above calamity, the pre sent was erected and finished in 1679. The church and tower are well built of stone, the roof formed into a cuppla is covered with lead, and supported with demy-columnS bf the Composite order; the floor is paved with stone, and the whole is comprised in three aisles, 'well pewed and wainscoted ; the body of the church, though small, is commodious and pleasant. There is. a neat gallery op the north and north-west sides; a pulpit carved and veneered, and two inner door-cases, of wainscot. The altar-piece is of tbe same timber, adorned with four fluted pilasters, entablature ahd pediment of the Corinthian er- 5 der; 50(3 LONDON. der; in the pediment the arms of England are carved, gilt, and coloured. The intercolumns are the Decalogue in gold letters on black, within gilded frames, under a glory ahd two cherubims, and between the Creed and Lord's Prayer., done in black and gold, . each under a cherubim, with or naments of fruit and leaves of various kinds ; the roof is also adorned with pannels, circles, and festoons of crocket work, and the three front sides, outward with cornice arid circular pediment ; a clock projects from the church over the -street. The dimensions of St. Swithen's church are? length, fixty-one feet from north to south ; from east to west forty- two ; altitude about forty ; and thatof the Tower (wherein- is one bell) and spire, one hundred and -fifty feet. Monuments. Those noticed by Stow, are Sir John Hind, the rebuilder of the former church. Sir Ralph Joceline, lord mayor 1464. Sir Stephen Slany, lord mayor 1595. Sir John Hart, lord mayor 1589. Sir George BoUes, alias Bowles, lord mayor 1617. Monuments in the present building worthy of particular mention, are the following : Spe Resurgendi, Near this place lies interred, the Body of Mr. Michael Godfrey of LondoHi Merchant, the 1 1th Son of Thomas Godfrey of Hod- dyford, in the County of Kent, Esq. He married Ann Mary, eldest Daughter of Sir Thomas Chamberlain, after he had served him 8 Years Apprentiship, by whom he had 5 Sons and 5 Daugh ters, and having lived with her .35 Years in a most agreeable wed lock, he died the 3d day of December 16S9, in the 65th Year of his Age, leaving her and 4 Children surviving, viz. Michael, Peter, Elizabeth and Hester. Elizabeth deceased the 1st of Aug. 1591. He.ster was married the 20th i.f Apr. 1691, to Hugh Smithson, of Tottenham, in the County of Middlei, Esq.* by whom having had Issue 7 Children (of which 3 Sons and 2 Daughters survived her) she died in Childbed the 3d Jay of Oct. 1698, and lie.s interred by her Father. • Ancestor of the Duke of Nohhumberkiid, whose father was Sir. tlvgh Smithson, till he took the name of Percy. On LONDON. 501 Dn a pillar on the north-east side, a white marble monu- teent, adorned with mantling, voluta and urn, between two mourning cherubs, and palm branches, is this inscription: ¦,.¦„.. P. M.S. Near this place lies interred, the Body of Michael Godfrey, Merchant, late of this Parish, Son of Mr. Michael Godfrey, Mer- "chant. and Ann Mary his Wife; he was born 22d of Feb. 1658, being elected the first Deputy Governour ofthe Bank of England ; 'he went for Flanders on some important Business relating to the Service of his Majesty, vvhere attending his Royal Person, then encamped before Nam ure, he was slain by a Cannon ball frotn the Works of the besieged, July 17, 1695. Ha died a Bachelor, much lamented by all his Friends, Relations and Acquaintance, for his Integrity, his Knowledge, and the Sweetness of his Man ners ; his Body was brought over, and Ues buried near his Father : His sorrowful Mother caused this Monument to be erected to the pious memory of her beloved Son. The God of Battel found in Foreign Parts, The Son of I^ermes form'd for peaceful .Arts; - And thought it lawful Prize to take his Blood, Because so near a Warrior King he stood. ' A spacious black marble grave stone before the altar rails^ -Jying north and south : inscribed. Here lies the Body of Mrs. Agnes Reid, Daughter of the Ho- -nourable Johaa Reid, Esq. one of his Majesty's Judges of the Islani of Barbadoes, Ob. 1 Jan. 1685. ' Virtue and Beauty here doth lie. Her Sexes sole Epilomy ; They must have Musick, all the Arts, Judgment to use ; or want her parts. When such vanish, then what can save The most ingenious, from the Grave. LONDON STONE, This is a very great piece of antiquity, which has been •carefully preserved from age to age, and is mentioned by the same name so early as in the time of Ethelstan, king of th.'i west Saxons. It formerly stood a little neai'er the chan- Voj.. U, No, 48. " 3 S nel 503 LONDON. nel facing the sanfe place ; and being fixed very deep in the? ground, was so strongly fastened by bars of iron, as to bfe in no danger from the carriages. It seems very surprising that so great a piece of antiquity has been constantly preserved with such care, and yet so little has been said of it, that tbe original cause of its erec tion, and the use for which it was intended, is quite un certain. Most authorities give it a Roman erection, and place it in the centre of the city burnt by Boadieea, and to serve for the place whence the Romans measured their miles, which they reckoned from all great towns and places;. by stones pitched ; and perhaps this might be the stone for London, from which precise place to measure their miles from this city towards the other parts of the land *. And this street in former times being the chief street of London, London Stone might have been the place whence proclama tions and public notices were given to the citizens, which conjecture is confirmed by the following passage in the English Chronicles. " "W^hen Jack Cade, the Kentish rebel, anno 1450, in Henry VI, 's time, who feigned himself the lord Moitimer, came through Southwark into London, he marched to London Stone, amidst a great confluence of people, and the lord mayor among the rest : He struck his sword upon it, and said, " Now is Mortimer lord of this city ;" and there making a formal, but lying declaration to the mayor, departed back again to Southwark." Others have said that the stone was set for the tendering and making of payment by debtors to their creditors, at their appointed days and times ; till in latter times payments were more usually made at the font in St. Paul's church, and at the Ro3'al Exchange. This venerable relic of antiquity very narfowly escaped, lately, utter demolition; a meeting ofthe precinct was called to remove it as an obstruction ; and it was only through the personal exertions of Mr. Maiden, printer in Sherbourn Lane, that it Owes its present preservation. * ,See "Vol. I. page 34. At LONDON. 503 At the top of the court, on the west side of the' church, formerly stood the mansion and gardens of the prior of Tortington ; on tbe back of which, in Walbrook, during the reign of Henry VII. were two houses adjoining, in habited by the infamous peculators belonging to tbat mo narch; Sir Richard Empson, chancellor of the dutchy of Lancaster, and Robert Diadley, Esq. who had each of them doors of communication into Tortington Gardens, \yhere they usually contrived their schemes of depredation against their fellow subjects. At the suppression of monasteries, Tortington House came to the crown ; and Henry VIII. granted it, with the church and church-yard of St. Swithen, as the property of the dissolved priory, to John de Vere, earl of Oxford, and it then changed its name to Oxford Place, which the adjoining court still preserves. John de Vere was one of those who subscribed the articles against Cardinal Wolsey. Oxford Place was again granted by Queen Elizabeth tp Edward, earl of Oxford, grandson of the fornjer. The earl being highly incensed against Cecil, JLord Burleigh, whose daughter he had married, for not preserving Thonias, Duke of Norfolk, from destruction, when condemned for his correspondence with Mary, Queen pf Scots, and believing it to be in the power of Burleigh to save him, broke out into the most unreserved indignation against the minister. He declared he would do all in his power to ruin the countess, his daughter ; and he kept his 'Word ; for he not only separated from her, but consumed or sold his estate, leaving very little to his son and successor in the title. Such hard and undeserved treatment brpke the lady's heart, and she died soon after. Among other parts of his estate, Oxford Place was disposed of to Sir John Hart, who kept his mayoralty here in 1589; Joan, his eldest daughter, having married Siv George BoUes, this place came into his possession, and he also kept his mayor alty here, in 1617. From the descendants of Sir George, the premises were purchased by the company of Salters, and jt has continued their hall till the present period. 3 S 3 SALTER'S 504 LONDON, SALTER'S HALL is a plain brick building ; but capacious and commodious for business. The antient hall of this company, previous to 1454, was situated in Bread Street. Here are the pictures of Mr. John Irelan^l, the first master of the company, and a considerable benefactor; also of Mr. William Robson, and Mr. Bernard Hyde, two great benefactors. The former gave 5000/. for charitable uses ; the latter, the sum of 1500/. for the same purpose; and a fine picture of Wilham HI. on horeback. But a cu riosity is exhibited in- the Court Room, framed and glazed ; beirig " A BitL ov Fare iPOB. fifty People ot the Company op Salters, A. D. 1506." £• 0 36 chickens - 0 4 5 1 swan and 4 geese 0 7 0 9 rabbits - - 0 14- 2 rumps, of beef-tails 0 0 2 6 quails - - 0 16 2 oz. pepper - 0 0 2 2 oz, cloves and mace 0 0 4 ij ounce saffron 0 0 6 Slhs. sugar - 0 0 8 2lb. raisins - 0 0 4 lib. dates . - 0 0 4 l-|Ib. comfits - 0 0 2 Half hund. eggs 0 0 2| ¦4 gallons of curds 0 0 4 1 do,, gooseberries 0 0 2 Bread - - Oil One kilderkin of ale 0 2 3 H«rbs - - 0 10 2 dishes of bptter 0 0 4 4 breasts of veal Bacon; Quar. load of coals Faggots SjgallonsofGascoigne wine - ' - 0 One bottle Muscova- ' dine - - 0 Cherrtps and tarts 0 Verjuice and vinegar 0 Paid the cook - 0 Perfume - , 0 Otie bushel and half of meal . . o Water * - - V Garnishing the vessels 0 /. «. d. 0 1 5 0 0 6 0 0 4 0 0 2 2 4' 0 0 03 Q O 0 0 C^ 13, '2| In this hall was performed, during the year 1765,by Messrs, Dove and Dilly, citizens of London, in the presence of Sir William Stephenson, lord mayor. Lord Howe, one of the On account of conveyance from the conduits. lords SAJLT3E1R.S MAljT, , Lvri.h>n..l\,bli.>h'J hi^ y.nwr .(!,¦,• LONDON. 505 lords of the admiralty, and several eminent merchants and gentlemen of great learning, abilities and knowledge in the art of distillation and qualities of drugs, and in the pro perties of good and wholesome water, an experiment to make salt water sweet, palatable, and fit for all uses, With a cheap and wholesome ingredient, to the entire satisfaction of the spectators. , . The SALTERS form the ninth company in point of pre,i cedcnce in the city of London, and are of such an antient date, that they had the grant of a livery in the reign of Richard II. A.D. 1394, though. their present charter of in-^ corporation is no older than April 28, 1578. They are rich in estates ; and are governed by a master, two wardens, and a court of assistants. Lord Mayors, members of this company : Sir Robert Basset, 1476. Sir William Home, 1488. Sir Robert Chawry, 1495. Sir Thomas Pargiter, 1531. Sir John Cotes, 1543. Sir Ambrose Nicholas, 1576. Sir Wil liam Webb, 1592. Sir Owen Buckingham, 1704. Sir Charles Peers, 1716.— 'Members now living,, who have been lord mayors: Sir R. C. Glyn, 1799. Sir John Eamer, 1802. James Smith, Esq. on the 22d and 23d of July 1661, citizen and Salter of London, conveyed to the Salters Com pany certain almshouses (eight in number) at Maidenhead, and endowed them with a farm in the parishes of Bray and Cookham, called Norden. In these almshouses eight poor men and their wives are maintained ; they must be fifty years of age at least, inhabitants of Cookham, and recom mended by the minister and inhabitants assembled in vestry, to tbe court of assistants of the Salters Company, who se lect some fit objects for admission out of those so nomi- pated. A further andowment was made for the better support of these almshouses by two ladies, relations of the founder. These almshouses are well supported, and once in three years the court of assistants of the Salters' Company take a view of them, niake orders for their good government, and correct irregularities, if they find any in the conduct of the g,lms-people, § The 50C LONDON. The company also have twelve almshouses in Monkwell Street, London, founded by Sir Ambrose Nicholas, alder-r man of London, for twelve widows,^ or daughters of Salters, for the support whereof he left au estate in houses ad- joinirig to the almshouses ; the rents of wbich are appro priated for the maintenance of the almswomen ; but the company make a considerable addition to the stipends out of their own funds, and have ' an apothecary at an annual salary to attend and take care of the sick. In Salter's Rents, Bow Lane, there are almshouses for six almsmen, partly supported by legacies and bequests of dif ferent benefactors, and partly by the bounty of the com pany. These almsmen are always chosen out of the poor decayed freemen of the company. The company distribute about ISOl.per anmim in support of these almshouses, and to different charitable pnrposes ; besides public donations and subscriptions, on great and particular occasions. Salter's Hall is also the monthly place of meeting for the governors of Greenwich Hospital, -for contracts, &c. Adjoining to this hall is a Meeting House of the English Presbyterian persuasion*. It is a large structure, well pewed, and commodious, for the respectable congregation irhich attend divine service. The parsonage house of St. Swithen, having been built after the Great Fire by Mr. Henry Whistler ; from this cir cumstance, the court received its name of Whistler's Court, WALBROOK. This respectable street, of which we have already made mentionf, covers a brook, which, in tbe reign of Wil liam I. was denominated The Running Water. This was before there was any ditch between Bishopsgate and Moor- * English Presbyterians, in the original sense, is a name improperly appUed to this respectable class of Dissenters. They are a species of Independents; the chief difference between them is, that these Preby- byterians are less attached to .Calvinism ; and consequently admit a greater latitude of religious sentiment, f Page 92. gatci LONDON. ^a1 gate ; but on account of an aperture in the wall, through which it passed, and by various windings siipfplied the City with water, it received its name of Walbrook. In an ancient Book of the Customs of London, it was re corded that the prior of the Htily Trinity within Aldgktei " ought to make over Walbrook, in the ward of Broad Street, against the stone wall of the city, viz. the same bridge that is next the church of All Saintis at the' Wall. Also, that the prior of the new hospital, St. Mary Spitalj without -Bishopsgate, ought to make the middle part of onfe other bridge, next to the said bridge towards the north ; and that, in the twenty-eighth year of Edward I. it was by in quisition found before the mayor of London, that the parish of St. Stephen upon Walbrook ought of right to scower thei course of the said brook \ and therefore the sheriffs werd commanded to -distrain the parishioners so to do." This water was continued to Dowgate, also covered by the steep street called Dowgate Hill, at the Upper end of which stood a castellated conduit for *rhames water : be tween which and the river there vvas such a fall of Water on the 4th of September, 15747 and the channel rose so high by a sudden fall of rain, that a lad of eighteen years old, falling into it, as he endeavoured to leap over, was car ried away by the flood, and drowned. The house belonging to the abbot of Tortington un doubtedly reached to this place; which is evident from lofty arches of excellent Workmanship, in the cellars of a -house, which has been denominated Walbj-ook House, the residence of the family of Pollexfen, eminent juridical cha racters ; one of whom, Mr. Henry Pollexfen, was retained by the City to plead their Cause against the iniquitous writ of Quo Warranto, issued by Charles II. And lower down the street must have been the houses of Empson and Dudley *. Adjoining to this structure is the parish church of • Page 503. '¦ ST. SOS LONDON. ST. STEPHEN, WALBROOK. " THIS church, so little noticed by us, is famous alt over Europe, and is justly reputed the master-piece of the Celebrated Sir Christopher Wren. Perhaps Italy itself can produce no modern building that can vie with this in taste or proportion : there is not a beauty which the plan would admit of, that is not to be found bere in its greatest per fection ; and foreigners very justly call our judgement in question for understanding its graces no better, and allowing it no higher a degree of fame *." The first account we have of the church of St. Stephen is from Dugdale's Monasticon, where it is recorded that Eudo, steward of the household to Henry 1. gave th« church of St. Stephen super Walbrook, to his new founded monastery of St. John, Colchester; and the abbot and con vent presented to the living till tbe year 1422. Sir Robert Chicheley, Grocer, who had been lord mayor in 1421, gave in the year 1428, to the parish, a plot of ground, con taining two hundred and eight feet and a half in length, and sixty-six feet in breadth, for the purpose of erecting a new church, and forming a church-yard. This plot had Critical Review of Pu ^ Buitdings. formerly 'Mi£ J_ Bl- i .F-=: :a r V ¦ -; - ' LONDON. S6$ formerly belonged to Sir William Standon, who had also been twice lord maydt, but, with the adjacent houses, -were purchased by Sir Robert, for the sum of two hundred ttiarks. SiY Rdbert Chicheley, in 14^9, laid the first stone of the proposed fkbric, on his own account, and a second in me mory 6f Sir William Standon. He also gave the additional sum of 100/. and bdre the charges of all the timber work, besides covering the new structure with lead, giving all the timber for roofing the side aisles, and defraying the ex- pence of carriage. Thus, piously raised, the church was finished in 1439. In the next year, by an ihquisitioti, it was found that iSir Robert Whitingham, knight of the bath-, had pur chased the patronage of this chiirch iri 1432 from John ' Duke bf Bedford, ilncle of Henry Vt. and gaVe it to Sir Richard Lee, lord mayoif in 1460. Having continued in the falflily of Lee foi- some time, it was about the year 1502 given by Richard Lecj Estjv to the Grocer's Coftjpauy, whd still continue patrons of the living. Tbe ehurch was amply repaired a.t the expence Of SlOl. and upwards, by the parish, during the years 1622—1632; but shared the common fate, iri 1666, and was levelled, exi cept the steeple and bells. It was again rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren, artd the parish of St. Bennet Sherehog tlnited to it by act of parliament. The walls and tower are stope; and the toof within over the middle aisle atched ; in the cenl;re of which is a spacious eupok) and a lantern ; the roof over the rest Of the churcli is' flat, covered with lead, and supported l^y columns and pilasters of the Cof inthian ordfcr ; there are tfcltee aisles, and it Dfoss aisle paved with stone j the asOent from the street is by fifteen steps. The roof and cupola are adofned with an entablature and arches ; oriiamented by shields, palm branches and roses^ of fret work, and pahliels of crocket work. The walls are wainscoted ten feet high, hSiving the Grocers arms within a hand!some compartment at palm branches, &e. at th« Vol. 11. No. 49. 3 T , north 510 LONDON. ^nprth end of the cross aisle isa door-case, beautifully de corated with various kinds of fruit and leaves ; at the north east angle is another ; and at the west end a third, ver}'- magnificent ; adorned with two columns, entablature and pediment of the Corinthian order, enriched witli cheru bims, festoons, and the arms of Chicheley, of wainscot ; the altar-piece is adorned with .two columns, their archi trave, frieze, and cornice of the same order ; on the cornice are the arms of England, and underneath are figures of Moses and Aaron, with a radiance ; above the Creed, &C.- and Lord's Prayer, are two shields, with compartments and festoons, fruit, leaves, &c. gilt with gold ; and on the northernly shield, are the arms, or, a chevron between three cinquefoils gules, for Chicheley. The communion table, ¦which is a semicircle finely veneered, and carved, is placed on a foot-pace of black and white marble, and inclosed by a circular rail and banister, two steps of black marble, higher than the rest of the chancel. Over the altar is a most beautiful historical painting of the stoning of St. Stephen, painted by Benjamin West, Esq. late president of the Royal Academy, which fills up the whole of the large east window. To speak in adequate terms of this excellent effort of the classic pencil of Mr. West ; whether we con sider the sublimity of tbe subject, the chastity' of the de sign, or the correctness of the execution ; future times wiU ' confess that this performance will establish ' the reputation duly attached to the merit of the English school. The pulpit is also finely carved and veneered, and has enrich ments of cherubims, cupids, festoons, and a lamp. Here is also a white marble font, whose type is curiously carved*. The * The principal beauties of this justly admired edifice are on the in side ; where the dome, vvhich is spacious and noble, is finely propor tioned to the church, and divided into small compartments decorated with great elegance, and crowned with a lanthern, while the roof, •which is also divided into compartments, is supported by very noble Co rinthian columns, raised on their pedestals. On the sides under the lower roofs are only circular windows, but those which enlighten the upper roof are small arched ones ; and at the east end are three very noblfr LONDON. Sll The dimensions of this church- are, length seventy-five feet, breadth fifty-six, altitude of the middle, roof, thirty- four feet; of the cupola and lantern, fifty-eight feet; and of the tower (in which are three bells) to the tap bf the rail , and banister, about seventy feet'. ' Monuments. In the old church, John Dunstable, maste^ of astronomy and music, died 1453. Sir Richard Lee, lord mayor, 1460. Sir Rowland Hill, lord mayor, 1549*. Sir John Cotes, lord mayor, 1542. Sir John York, knt. Merchant Taylor, , Edward Jackman, Esq. sheriff, 1564. Dr. Owen, physician to Henry VIIL The modern monuments of note are the following : Tothe memory of Nathaniel Hodges, M.D. a writer on the Plague. Robert Marriott, S. T. P. many years rector, who died 1689, aged eighty-one. The late Dr. Thomas Wilson, rector -of this church, and son of the venerable bishop of Sodor and Man, was addicted in the decline of life, to countenance party opinions ; and to shew his re spect for Mrs. Macauley, who had written an intemperate History of the House of Stuart, he caused a whole length statue of her to be erected in her life time in this church. This adulatory idol, after having been noticed and cen sured, was removed by Mr. Townle}^, his successor. Among the rectors of eminence, arc to be mentioned - Henry Chicheley, brother of Sir Robert Chiche ley, who was born at Higham Ferrars, in Northamptonshire ; educated at Winchester, and appointed fellow of New College, Oxford, by its founder, William of Wyckham, bishop of Winchester. Elaving applied himself to the study of the Civil and Canon Law, he took the degree of LL.D. and tvas preferred to .this rectory March 30, 1396, noble arched windows. Th? appearance has a very striking effect af entering, every part at once attractihg the eye, except the bases of the columns, which are injudiciously eclipsed by the carving on the top of the pews. This, however, was not the design of the architect*- * See ^is character amcng the niayors, p. 24, 2 T 3 Nes^t £12 LONDON. Next year Robert Medeford, bishop of Salisbury, took him into his family, and preferred him to the archdea conry cf that diocese. In 1405 he was appointed chan cellor of Salisbury ; and Henry IV. observing his won derful capacity, employed him in various negociations ; and in an extraordinary embassy to Pope Gregory XII. Dr. Chicheley acquitted himself with such honour, that Pope, in 1407, nominated him bishop of St. David's,. and consecrated him with his own hands. By the same power he was appointed archbishop of Canterbury in 1414, and sat in the archiepiscopal throne twenty-nine years. He died April 12, 1443, and was buried in his own cathedral, ¦where his monument and statue are still to be seen. The inscription on the monument declares his munificence in founding a college and hospital at Higham Ferrars, two col leges in Oxford, one called Bernard's College, suppressed by Henry VIII. and re-founded by Sir Thomas White, un der the name of St. John's College ; the other was All Soul's College. His benefactions to tbe univerfity of Ox ford, the cathedral of Canterbury, to the parilh church of Croydon, and to Rochester bridge, testify that he was cer tainly a prelate of munificence ; his firmness in his duty is exemplified in the account of St. Dunstan in the East. John Kite, archbishop of Thebes, and bishop of Car lisle, 1520, a .Londoner; he was ambassador from king Henry VIII. to the king of Spain, who constituted him archbishop. This prelate died in 1537, and was buried in the churdh of St. Dunstan, Stepney. Henry Pendleton, D.D. This man is noticed by Fox, for the protestation he made to Lawrence Sanders, the mar tyr. In the reign of Edward VL Pendleton was the Vicar of Bray, of tbat time. Sanders, on account of his dif fidence, had doubted whether he had strength to enduye persecution, was answered by Pendleton, " That he would see every drop of his fat, and the last morsel of his flesh consumed to ashes, ere he would swerve from the faith as then established." The rectoj- of Walbrook, however, again changed LONDON. 513 changed with the times, and saved his grease and flesh; .virhilst the mild, fearful Sanders, suffered at the stake in ISmithfield. Aaron Wilson, D. D. archdeacon qf Exeter. Thomas Howell, D.D. bishop of Bristol, and brother of James Howell, the historic^raphef. This prelate was ,.born at Caerjnarthen, and admitted into Jesus College, Oxon. in 1604, at the age of sixteen ; and having passed the various degrees of afts, he took orders, and was an eminent preacher. He was afterwards appointed chaplaia to Charles I. rector of West Horsley, and of this church ; and having proceeded D.D, was nominated a canon of Windsor, in 1636, and rector of Fulham, in 1643. The grand rebcllioa drove him frotn the livings of West Horsley, apd St. Stephens, upon which the king caused him to be con- crated bishop of Bristol, at Oxford; which dignity he en joyed only two years, when he died, and was buried in his own cathedral, where a plain stone was placed over his grave, on which was cut " Expergiscar ;" '^ He, shall arise."" Bishop Howell, remarkable for his meekness, was an excellent divine. Thomas Wilson, D. D, prebendary of Westminster. Mr. Townley, high master of Merchant Taylors' school. MANSION HOUSE. Mention has already been made in the historical portion of this work *, concerning the laying of the first stone of this grand praetorium ; it is therefore unnecessary to say more here than may be to introductory to its general de scription. When the constructi,on of a building for this purpose wa* voted, several situations presented themselves as appropriate fpr a residence of the chief magistrate of the city of Lon don, and the following were proposed ; the end of Pater noster Row ; Cheapside; Moorfields; and Stocks Market ; the latter was chosen on account of being in the centre of J>usiness, at a small distance from the Royal Exchange, apd * See Vol. I. p, 383. in 514 London; ih the heart bf the city : Stocks Market was therefore de.. stroyed, and its traffic transferred to a new market, built over Fleet Ditch, now. called Fleet Market, and the earth dug for laying the foundation of the Mansion House ; but the ground was discovered to be so full of springs, that it became necessary to erect the edifice upon piles. These being driven close together, the first stone was laid Oc tober 25, 1739 ; and having been finished in 1753, Sir Crisp Gascoigne, was the first lord mayor who made it his residence. This mansion is built very substantially with Portland stone. The portico is composed of six lofty fluted pillars of the Corinthian order in the front ; and the same order is continued in pilasters both under the pediment and on each side. The bassment story is very massy, built in rustic. And in the centre of this story is the door that leads to tlie kitchen and other offices. Upon the ground, on each side, rises a flight of steps of very considerable extent, leading up to the portico, and to the door which leads to the apart ments and offices where the Ibrd mayor resides and business is transacted. A stone balustrade incloses the stairs, and is continued along the front of the portico : and the columns support a large angular pedimefnt, adorned with a very noble piece in bas-relief; representing the dignity and opu lence of the city of London. In the centre stands a wo man, crowned with turrets, to represent the city ; and with her left foot upon the, figure of Envy : in her right hand she holds a wand, and rests her left arm upon the city arms, in a large shield, all in alto relievo. She seems to step for ward, her head and right arm project from the back grpund, and her wand extends beyond the cornice of the pediment. Near her, on the right, isa Cupid holding the Cap of Li berty on a short staff, like a mace, over his shoulder; and beyond is a river god, to represent the Thames, recUned and pouring out a stream of water from a large vase ; and near him is an anchor fastened to its cable, with shells ly ing on the shore. On the left hand of London, Plenty is kneeling and holding out her hand in a supplicating pos ture. li '. a i' I "I -'' ' '•- n'.tf r * -' 111 Hi -vkL^lrf __ .-I ''I V ;r^ >-i.> E G-rr TIAW ,HA-]LI., MAW SIOK HOX'SE. .r„//,./,„/ /y.>,//i;.fl,ym.v/„//n«,»,//.l,,',.:,rAf,ui. -' LONDON. SL ture, beseeching the city to accept of the fruits of her cor nucopia :- and behind her are two nalced boys with bales o -goods, to denote Commerce. Beneath this portico are tw< •Vseries of windows, extending along the whole front; anc .above these is an Attic story, with square windows, crowned with a balustrade. At the south end of the area in the centre is an Egyptiar Hall the length of the front,, and assigned for public enter- .ilg^nments. This was very lofty, but has lately been taken down parallel to the rest, of the ' structure. To make it re- gular in flank, a similar building was raised on the front, the upper part of which has been used for a dancing gallery. , Near the ends at each side is a window of extraordinary height, between ooijpled Corinthian pilasters, and extend ing to , the top of the Attic story. All the apartments are extremely noble : and the offices are made as grand and con venient as the' dignity and business of the city can require. The only failing in this magnificerit work was placing such a stately structure in a narrow space covered by houses, .where it cannot be viewed to advantage. To remedy in -some degree such a great inconvenience a row of houses and shops were removed, to obtain more room in what is now called Mansion-House Street. , Mr. Gwynne* has made some judicious remarks upon this building, which we shall give in his own words: " It has been the fashion ever since the Mansion House was erected, to condemn and abuse it as a miserable perform ance ; but it by no means deserves such treatment : the ¦truth is, that thq architect has given the city an elegant de sign in the stile of that great master Palladio ; and it ^is as true that the miserable circumscribed area upon which he was obliged to build it, is the cause why it makes no better anappearance ; and the necessity imposed upon him of put ting an Egyptian "Hall in an English house, is the reason why those heavy loads of stpne appear upon the roof, which co-operating vvith the hole it stands in, seem to have pressed the whole building into the earth- When this edi- • Londisn a,nd Westminster Improved, p. lOt. 2 * . fi"^^ 516 l6n'don. fice Was eretted, the opposite houses in Walbrook poUred the smoke of their chimnies into the lord mayor's apart.>- ments, and the citizens bad not spirit enough, Until a long time afterwards, to remove this inttjlerable nuisance. Tlie truth is, if when they had determined to erect a mansion house they had resolved tO do it suitably to the importance, of so great a city, they should have purchased and taken down all that range of bouses between Bucklersbury and tbe Poultry, and built the front of the Mansion House di rectly facing Cheapside, and at thO same time have raised the ground on which it now stands; this would have given it a fine elevation, and in that ftase the front might have been brought forward in a line vrith the steeple of Wal brook church, which would have given the building a suf ficient depth if it had been wanted ; those incumbrances on the top would have been omitted, and the very building, which bas been so unjustly censured, would have appeared extremely noble and magnificent, as the front, by being extended, would have given a more elegant proportion to the portico ; add to all this, that by raising the ground, the water would have been effectually prevented fropi running into the house, which it has always done whenever a stop page was produced by a severe frost, or sudden shower." Befides being a place for official concerns, the hilarity of the festive board bas been often exhibited in compliment to the most exalted characters. It was here that the prince of Monaco, the hospitable friend of Edward, Duke of York, and at whose palace be died, -was entertained in the year 1768 ; this was followed by another to the present king of Denmark, wh,o was received with the dignity due to his rank during the same year, in the mayoralty of the Hon. Thomas Harley. In J 770, William Beckford, Esq. gave a grand din ner and ball to a great assemblage of nobility and gentry, ill which no less than six hundred dishes were served up, and the Company was so numerous that the three great tables in the Egyptian Hall were not sufficient for their accommoda tion ; added to which, the diiiner was served up wholly on plate. During LONDON. 517 During the mayoralty of Paul Le Mesurier, Esq. on the 15th of April, l7j)'l, that enynent statesman and war rior, Marqiiis Cornwallis, was presented with the freedom of the City ; on which occasion the following solemnity took place. The lord mayor, accompanied by a select committee of the corporation, proceeded from the Mansion House about two o'clock, to the marquis's residence in New Burlington Street, attended by the city marshals, music, &c. where they presented the freedom of the city of Londoii, elegantly embellished with emblematical orna ments, and beautifully written- by Mr. Thomas Tomkins, an eminent writing-master, inclosed in a gold box of one hundred guineas value, agreeable to an order of common council. When the box was delivered by the chamberlain, the lord mayor, who was also a director of the East India Com pany, thus addressed his lordship : " My Lord Marqwis, " We have the honour to wait on yoilr lordship, by an order of the court of .mayor, aldermen, and common council of the city of London, in common council assembled, with the freedom of our antient city, which that court unanimously voted to your lordship on the happy conclusion of the late war in India ; and we have to heg that your lordship will be pleased to accompany us back into the city, there to take the oath of a freeman, and receive the usual charge, whereby we shall enjoy the high' honour of having your lordship enrolled among our fellow citizens. " Your lordship will do the citizens of London the justice to believe, that they were not among the last to feel and to acknow ledge the high and important service you have rendered to your country. The rank which our city holds in the commercial world, and tbe great share which she enjoys of the trade with' India, na turally led her numerous inhabitants to attend with anxious eye tst the progress of those very interesting scenes your lordship was en gaged in, and which by you have been brought to so glorious ^ conclusion; and it was, therefore, with the utmost joy, and with the most perfect unanimity, that the common council of this city expressed by their Resolution the high SQn?e they entertained of your great merits. Vol. II. No. 49. 3 U " -'^nd 5"1S LONDON. " And here, my lord, if saperior coniideraliuiis did not te» strain me, how easy'and how pleasing would it be for me to dwell on so delightful a theme ! For me, who in ray situation of an East India Director, have had belter opportunities than any of my, Fel low Citizens, to follow your lordship in the dischdrge of the se veral duties of your high station, and therein to contemplate thet GOOD Go-VERNOR, THE WISE LEGISLATOR, THE BRAVE SoL- DIER, THE GREAT GENERAL, THE EXCELLENT STATESMAN, ANT> THE MORAL GOOD Man ! How grateful to my feelings would it be to speak of the improved slate of the provinces you have governed, of the British character every where exalted, of confidence restored among the native princes, of protection ef fectually given by wise and beneficent laws to fhe many millions under the British government, of great military talents displayed, and, above all; of that signal instance of wisdom and moderation, unexampled and unknown in the history of India, the stopping in the full career of victory, and foregoing the glory that would have attended 'the surrender ofthe proud capital pf llie Mysore, t» grant peace to a vanquished foe, andthereby change a bitter enemy into an useful and respectable ally. " But, my lord, I know the sensibility which ever accompanies true heroism, and I know that my brother citizens would not be pleased that I should enter upon a recital that would wound your- «ar. I shall, therefore, content myself with entreating your lordship to accept this tribute of respect from the city of London, and in conveying the sincere wishes of Ull my fellow citizens, that you may long enjoy your health and honours, and that your coun try may continue to benefit from those great abilities and eminent virtues which will transmit the name of Cornwallis with admi ration and gratitude to the latest posterity !" The marquis retumed his sincere thanks to the lord mayor, for the very flattering manner in wbich the freedom had been presented ; expressing the pleasure it .gave him to have his conduct approved by the corporation, and that he considered it one of the greatest honours of his life to be en rolled — A CiTi7^N OF London ! " The committee then returned, accompanied by the mar quis and his friends, to the Mansion House, in graijd pro cession. In St. James's Street, the cavalcade was joined by the LONDON. 519 the Lord Chancellor and Speaker ofthe House of Commons, in their state carriages. .On their arrival the marquis took the oath of d. citizen of London, and Mr. Chamberlain Willies addressed the noble citizen on his meritorious con duct as governor general in the East Indies. A very mag nificent entertainment was provided by the lord mayor. The tables were decorated with numerous emblematical qr- naments ; and froni triumphant arches, warlike trophies, &c. were suspended. At the principal table were two historical pictures of the delivery of the hostages from Tippoo Sul taun to the marquis. In the key-stone of an ornamented and very elegant arch, the arms of his lordship beauti fully united with the arms and supporters of London. The dinner exhibited all that the season produced, or that art could contrive, and Plenty sat enthroned in her greatest splendor. On this occasion the front of the building- was illuminated in a superior stile ; and in the centre was intro duced a large and beautiful transparency, by Singleton, of the deliverv of the Sultaun's sons to the marquis. The hospitality of this place was exhibited in a very emi nent manner in the mayoralty of William Curtis, Esq. On the 29th of March 1796, a most brilliant assemblage of fashion and beauty was collected ; which was honoured bjr the presence of the Duke of York, Prince Ernest, Prince William of Gloucester, the late Stadtholder, and his family, and a great number of British nobihty and gentry. Abund ance and good humour filled every avenue, and the dinner and ball were alike distinguishable of the known character of the host The Mansion House, during the mayoralty of Sir John Eamer, was a peculiar scene of festivity. On Easter Monday, April 19, 1802, the Prince of Wales, with his brothers the Dukes of Clarence and Cumberland, accom panied by a train of nobility and gentry, honoured the din ner and ball with their presence. The 29th of the same month the lord mayor entertained the principal persons who composed the procession for the proclamation of peace. 3 U2 . In S30 LONDON. In the yeair 1S06, on Easter Monday, April 7, Jame« Shaw, Esq. lord mayor, the Prince of Wales, his bro thers, the Dukes of York, Clarence, Kent, and Sussex, with their cousin Prince William, Duke of Gloucester, paid a secohd visit to the Mansion House ; where an assemblage of nearly five thousand of the nobility, and principal gentry of the country, with tbeir ladies, were regaled with a pro fusion of delicacies, consistent with the magnificence of the first city in the world. , Stocks Market, was of very antient date. In 1282, Henry Wallis, mayor, caused several bouses to be built to wards the maintenance of London Bridge, in an open place near the parish church of St. Mary Woolchurch ; on the north side of which, the street being very broad, bad been Set up stocks for the punishment of offenders. Hence the buildings took the name of Stocks, and were appointed by this mayor, to be a market place for fish and flesh in the midst of the city. Thus Stocks Market belonged to the keepers of London Bridge; but encroaching upon their pri- vilegeSj Sir John Gisors, lord mayor, and the aldermen, in 1313, took cognizance of their proceedings, and decreed that the keepers should not in future have power to let shops, &c. -without the assent of the corporation. In 1322-, it was ordered, that none should sell fish or flesh out of the markets of Bridge Street, Eastcheap, Old Fish Street, St. Nicholas Shambles, and the Stocks, upon pain of losing their goods for the first offence, and for the second to be disfranchised ; at this time the market was farmed afc 461. 1 3*. 4«?. per year. Stocks Market was rebuilt in the year 1410. In 1507, it was rented at 56/. 9s. lOd. ; and in 1543, there were twenty-five boards or stalls for fish mongers, rented yearly at 34/. 135. 4^.; eighteen butchers stalls, rented at 40/. I6.y. 4f/. ; beside six;teen upper cham bers, rented at 51. IZs. id. ; making in the whole an annual rent of 82/. 3.?. This market was latterly distinguishable only ftir the' sale of fruit, roots, and herbs ; whicb, on account of being tlie choicest of their sort, surpassed every other market in the City. It to.o.k up a large tract of ground, and occupied ? not LONDON. 521 not only the antient flesh and fish ms^rket, but the ground on which stood the parish church of St. Mary Woolchurch ; containing from north to south, through the centre, a length of two hundred and thirty feet ; and in breadth, from east to west, one hundred and eight feet, besides the waste ground on the east and west sides, which served as streets ; on the east side were planted rows of trees, and handsome houses. The north end was famous for a con- »duit; but the equestrian statue, over this conduit, has some cUrious anecdotes attached to it. Among the ad^ herents and, sufferers in the cause of Charles II. was Sir Robert Viner, alderman of London. After the Restora tion the worthy alderman, willing to shew his loyalty and prudence, raised in this place the statue abovementioned.' The figure had been carved originally for John Sobieski, king of Poland, but by some accident was left upon the workman's hands. Finding the work ready carved to his hands. Sir Robert thought that with some alteration, what was intended for a-king of Poland might suit the monarch of Great Britain ; he therefore converted the Polander into an Englishman, and the' Turk underneath his horse into Oliver Cromwell ; the turban on the last figure being an undeniable proof of the truth attached to the story. The compliment was so ridiculous and absurd? that no one who beheld it could ftvoid reflecting on the, taste of those who |iad set it up ; but as its history developed, the farce im proved, and what was before esteemed contemptible, proved ill the end entertaining. The poor mutilated figure, stood neglected some years since among the rubbish in the pur- (..lieus of Guildhall; -and in 1779 it was bestowed, by the com mon council, on Robert Viner, Esq. vyho removed it to grace - his country seat. St, MARY, WOOLCHURCH, This church was so called on account of a beam in the church-yard, for weighing wqol ; and we are, informed by ' Stow, in confirmation, that he found among the Customs of London, written in French, in the reign of Edward II. a chapter, entitled, Les Customes de Wool church 523 LONDON. diurch Haw ; wherein is set down what was paid for everjr parcel of wool weighed ; which custom continued in this place till the sixth year of the reign of Richard II. when the Custom House upon Wool Key was built. The foun dation of the church was as antient as the time of Wil liam I. when it was called the New Church in West Cheap, which renders it undoubted that West Cheap extended to the end of Cornhill. It was rebuilt in the reign of Henry VI. and among the benefactors was Richard Shore, Draper, and one of the sheriffs in 1505, probably a brother-in-law of J^ne Shore. The fabric was repaired and beautified in 1629, but sharing the fate of the other structures in the City in 1666, was not rebuilt ; and the parish was united to that of St. Mary Woolnoth. 'Lombard Street, west end. One of three principal streets which branch from the Poultr}' into the various eastern parts of the City ; the entrance is very narrow and iijcoBvenient. St, MARY WOOLNOTH. THIS church is so named on account of its approxi, mity to the Woolstaple. It is a rectory, formerly in the patronage of the prioress and nuns of St. Helen, till the suppressiqi) LONDON. 52S suppression by Henry VIII. when it was granted to Sir Mftrtin Bowes, lord mayor in 1545. The fabric was re built from the foundation in 1438, Sir Hugh Brice, Gold smith, and lord mayor in 1485, keeper of the king's ex change, and one of the governors of the Mint, built in this church a chapel, called the Charnel, besides part of the body of the church and steeple, and gave money towards finishing the whole, in addition to the stone which he had caused to be prepared for the purpose. "Sir Simon Eyre, founder of Leadenhall, gave the Cardinal's Hat tavern, with a tenement adjoining, and the appurtenances which had all, been lately erected by him, to be appropriated for alirotherhood, dedicated to Our Lady in this church. Sir John Percival, lord mayor in 1498, was also a liberal be nefactor. It appears that this gentleman had been one of the lord mayor's carvers; and agreeably to the custom, when the lord mayor drinks to the gentleman he chuses to nominate sheriff. Sir Henry Colet, whilst be vvas chief ma gistrate, took the cup of wine, drank to John Percival, who stood bareheaded before him as his attendant, calling him sheriff of London for the year ensuing, and caused him to be covered and to sit at the lord mayor's table. The fabric not having been totally destroyed by the Fire of London, the steeple escaped the flameS, and all the walls, except the north side, were deemed to be reparable. But the condition of the living having been much improved by its union with that of St.Mary Woolchurch, and the church thus patched falling to decay, it became necessary to level the whole, and rebuild it as one of the fifty new churches. It was finished in 1719, and is a substantial stone structure; but the ornamental parts and beauties of this fine structure are so covered and shut from the sight, by the neighbouring houses, that the very tower can fcarcely be seen, except from the roofs of houses, and the opposite garret windows. On the east side are three very large and lofty niches, adorned with Ionic columns, and surrounded with bold rustic : over these is a large cornice, upon which is placed a balustrade. The entrance at the west end, is by a lofty rustic 524 LONDON. rustic arch, over wliiiih rises an oblong tower, ornamented" with six Composite columns in the front, and two on the sides : upon this is raised a lesser tower of the same form, crowned with a balustrade: from the centre of which' rises a flag-staff, with a fane. The windows are on the south side ; where the edifice is entirely surrounded with houses. The interior of the church is massy, and thfe principal hghts are introduced through four large arched windows, forming part of a dome. Here is also a fine toned organ, built by father Smith, and repaired by England. Monuments in the old church, mentioned by Stow. Sir Martin Bowes, lord mayor, 1566. Sir Hugh Brice, lord mayor, 1485. Sir Simon Eyre, lord mayor, 1459. Sir Thomas Ramsey, lord mayor, 1590. Sir Johii Percival , 1498. Here are memorials of the family of Viner, and an in scription to the memory of Mr. James Houblon, " who," as his collateral descendant', Mr. Pennant expresses.it, " flou rished in wealth and reputation, and Was eminent for his plainness and piety -" but, wanting a monument, the fol lowing epitaph was composed for him by Samuel Pepys, Esq. secretary to the admiralty in the reigns of Charles II. and James II. JACOBUS HOUBLON. Londinas PETRI filitis, Obfidem Flandria exulantis : Ex C.'Nepotibus habuit LXX superstites : Filios V. vidcns mercatnresjlorentisdmos ; Ipse Londinensis Bursts Pater ; Piissiml obiit Nsnagenarius, Ao . D. ClDIOCLXXXIl. Adjoining this church is an extensive pile of buildings, the site of which, before the Great Fire, was occupied by a large and much frequented tavern. When that structure was destroyed, Sir Robert Viner, lord mayor in 1675, re placed it with a stately house, for his own habitation, where, during his mayoralty, he entertained Cfcarles II. Upon the failure LONDON. 525 failure of his credit, in eoosequeijce of the iniquitous shut ting up the Exchequer by the instigation of the Duke of York, it is probable that Sir Robert disposed c£ this house, which was afterwards, and is still occupied as THE GENERAL POST OFFICE, The intercourse of commerce must always have required some metliod .of conveying letters from one place to an other ; but how that was antiently performed is not easy to determine: it is probable, however, that the carriage <^ letters might always be a common employment between great towns, as the carriage of goods still continues. The uncertainties of this mode of carriage appear to have be^ii guarded against, by recommending letters to the peculiac attention of the bearer, by the words—" with care and speed," which we find added after the direction on letters of antient date. Posts, however, on the present footing are but a modern invention ; though some pretend to trace their origin to the reign of Charlemagne, It is certain it was to the policy, or rather the distrust of Louis XI. of France, that they owed their origin ; and they were regulated by an ordonnance of that restless prince in 1464, as the means of being sooner and more surely informed of what was transacted in the various provinces of his kingdom. By degrees the institu tion propagated itself through the other countries of Eu rope. Iri Germany, po^tS were first settled by the count De Taxis, at his own expence ; in consequence of which the emperor Matthias gave him, in fief, the charge of post master to him and his successors. By a statute of Edward VI. in 1548, post horses appear to have beeri used in England ; for, on occasion of regu lating the purveyors of the king's household, the rate of post horses was fixed at one pejiny per mile. Antiently the management of the foreign mails was under the direction oi a stranger, chosen by foreigners dwelling in the city of London, who even pretended to have a right by prescrip- tion of chusing their own postmaster. However, in the Vol. II. No. 49, -i 3 X year 526 LONDON. year 1568, a difference arising^ between the Spaniards and Flemings in' London, each chose their separate postmaster ; and this contest occasioned a representation from the citizens to the privy council, to beseech Queen Elizabeth, to fill that employment with one of ber English subjects. In the year 1581, Sir Thomas Randolph*, so much emp^ed by the queen in her foreign embassies, enjoyed the place of postmaster of England. King James I. originally erected a post oflSce under the controul of Matthew Le Quester, or De L'Equester, for the conveyance of letters to and from foreign parts; which oflSce was afterwards claimed by Lord Stanhope, but con firmed and continued to William Frizell, and Thomas Wi- therings, by Charles I. in 1633, for the better accommoda tion of the Enghsh merchants. In 1635, the same prince erected a letter oflJce, for England and Scotland, under the direction of the same Witherings, and settled certain rates of postage. But this extended only to a few of the prin cipal roads, the limes of carriage were uncertain, and the postmasters on each road were required to furnish him with horses at the rate of 2^d. per mile. Witherings was su perseded for abuses in both his offices, during the year 1640; and they were sequestrated into the hands of Peter Burla- machy, to be exercised under the care and oversight of the king's principal secretary of state. * In Lloyd's. Worthies, the following character is given of Sic Thomas Randolph ; " -Well studied he was in Justinian's Code, better in Machiavel's Discourses; both when a learned student ..of Christ • Church, and a worthy principal of Broadgate's : thrice therefore was he an ambassador to the. lords of Scotland in a commotion ; thrice to queen Mary iti times of peace ; feven times to James the Sixth of Scot land, -for a good understanding j and thrice to Basilides, emperor of Russia, for trade ; once to Charles the Ninth, king of France, to dis cover liis design upon Scodand ; and once to Henry the Third, to open a conspiracy of his subjects against him. Great services these, but meanly rewarded'; this serviceable, but moderate aud modest man, (though he had as many children at home as he had performed embas sies abroad) being contented with the chamberlainship of the exchequer, and the postmaster's place; the first but a name, and the second then but a noise," On LONDON. 527 Oil' the breaking out of the Civil War, great confusions and interruptions were necessarily occasioned in the con duct of the Letter Office. And, about that time, the out line of the present more extended and regular plan seems to have been conceived by Mr. Edmund Prideaux, who was appointed attorney general to the Commonwealth after the immolation of Charles I. He had been chairman of a com mittee in 1642, for considering what should be set upon .inland letters ; and afterwards appointed Postmaster by an ordinance of both houses, in the execution of which office, he first established a weekly conveyance of letters into all parts of the nation ; thereby saving to tbe public the .charge of maintaining postmasters, to the amount of 7000/. per annum. And, his own emoluments being probably very considerable,, the common council of London endeavoured to erect another Post Office, in opposition ; this was, how ever, checked by a resolution of the House of Commons,, which declared, " that the office of Postmaster is, and ought to be, in the sole power and disposal of the parlia ment." In 1653, the Postage of England, Scotland, and Ireland, was farmed of the parliament by John Manley, Esq. for 10,000/. per annum ; which agreement was confirmed by Oliver Cromwell in the following year. After he had seized the reins of government, he first formed A General Post Of FicE in 1656. Charles II. after his Restoration, legally confirmed this useful establishment ; and when the revenue was ascertained, it w^is settled on his brother Janies, Duke of York, in 1663, when it produced the sum of 21,500/. Ry the act of parliauient for establishing a General Post Office in 1660, to bq kept within the city of London, un der the direction of a postmaster to be apppinted by the king, it was enacted, " T^at the postniaster lyas iippow- ered to appoint post houses in the several parts pf the country hitherto unprovided, both in post and by roads :" but the postage .of letters to and from all places therein mentioned was nqt only ascertained, but likewise the rates pf post horses to be paid by all such as should ride post. 3 :5^ 2 At «2» LONDON. At length, upon the union of the kingdoms of England and Scotland, a General Post Office was established by act of parliament in tbe year 1710, not only for the united "kingdom of Great Britain, but likewise for that of Ireland, and her majesty's plantations in North America and the West Indies. A very considerable improvement took place towards the close of the last century respecting- the conveyance of let- 'ters. This was a plan suggested by Mr. Palmer, in 1784, for sending by post coaches letters from the Post Office every evening at eight o'clock. On Monda)', August 2, the plan was executed to such general satisfaction, that it ivas approved and adopted by government, and is the pre sent mode of conveying letters and passengers by Mail Coaches to all parts of the British dominions. ' The system of postage is thus rendered, one of the most perfect regulations of finance under any existing govern ment. It supplies, at the same time, a great revenue, and is highly beneficial to individuals ; besides being a most powerful engine for promoting every end of commercial intercourse. The inland communication by mail coaches, is provided with guards well armed, and forwarded at the rate of nearly eight miles an hour, including stoppages. Government contracts with the keepers of coaches only for the carriage of mails ; but the coach owners are well re munerated by the large prices which passengers pay for their safe and speedy conveyance ; a good profit is also made by parcels. Indeed, to sum up the whole, such a combination of utility, expedition,' and revenue, cannot be more complete, when it is considered that a letter put into the Post Office, London, before eight o'clock jn the even ing, arrives at its destination in Bath, or places of equal distance, early next morning. This excellent establishment is under the government of two joint postmasters-general, who are usually noblemen, a secretary, comptrollers, presidents over the various offices, clerks of the roads, sorters, one hundred and twenty-six lettei' LONDON. 529 letter carriers foi* the inland, and twenty-one for the foreign offices ; besides agents for packet boats, and, vast number* •of sutordinate officers. The following is the progressive increase of the Post Office revenue: In 1644, Mr. Prideaux was supposed to collect about 7000/. per anm^m. It was farmed in 1654 to' Mr. Manley, at 10,000l. per annum. In 1664, D. O'Neal, Esq. farmed it at 21,500/. In 1674, it was let at 43,000/. In 1685, it was estimated at 65,000/. In 1688, the amount was 76,318/. In 1697, it was at 90,505/. In 1710, it was allowed to be 111,461/. In 1715, the gross amount was 145,227/. In 1744, the inland office amounted to 198,226/ but the total amount of both inland and foreign offices, which can alone demonstrate the extent of our cori-espond- ence, was in that year 235,492/. Sir John Sinclair states that in 1788, this revenue produced 311,000/. In 1800 it amounted to more than half a million ; and it has been said that the present revenue of the Post Office exceeds 700,000/. per annum. > TWOPENNY POST OFFICE. The method of serving letters in, and ten miles round, the metropolis, was a project of Mr. Diivid Murray, ah upholder in Paternoster Row ; he communicated the scheme to Mr. William Dockwra, who carried it on with good suc cess for some time ; till governmentlaid hold of it as a royal prerogative. But the crown indulged him with a pension of 200/. per annuyn during his life. It was erected to carry any parcel of paper under one pound within a certain circuit for one penny, to be paid by the person that sent- it. But in process of time it bas been so managed as to oblige the party to whom the letter or par cel is directed or delivered, to pay one penny also, if that party happened to live out of the bounds of London, West minster, or their suburbs and hberties, or out of the borough of Southwark. And by a late act of parliament, the postage is raised to two pence. The two principal offices are, one in the General Post- Office Yard; Lombard-Street, ancl the other in Gerrard Street, 530 LONDON. Street, Soho. There are, besides, numerous receiving houses for letters, both in town and country. Sis collections and deliveries of letters are made in town daily, (Sundays excepted) and there are two dispatches yrowi and three deliveries at most places in the country, within the limits of this office. The hours by which letters should be put into the recfeiving houses in town, for each deliverj^, are as follow : Town Delivery. 'Over night by 8 o'clock for the First Country Delivery. , Morning - 8 - - - - Second The preceding evening by 5 o'cl. - - - 10 - - - - Third forthe ----- First - - - 12 - - - - Fourth Morning 8 o'clock - - Second Afternoon - 2 - - - - Fifth Afternoon 2 - - -, - Third. - - - 5 - - - - Sixth But letters, whether for town or country, may be put in at either of the two principal offices three quarters of an hour later for each dispatch. Letters put in on Saturday evenings are delivered in the country on Sunday morning. The d^^^sd stamp, or, if there are two, that having the lateft hour, shews also the tjme of the day by which letters are dispatched for delivery from the principal, offices. The postage of a letter to and from parts of the town within the delivery of the General Post-Office is two-pence; beyond that delivery three-pence; and the postage of this office on each letter paffing to or from the General or Foreign Post-Offices, is two-pence. The two-penny postage of all letters, such as are for parts out of his Majesty's dominions excepted, may or may not be paid at putting in, at the option of the senders. No two-penny pofi; letter must weigh more than four ounces. The delivery of this office includes all places within the ' following circle, which is also inclusive. KENT. Woolwich, Plumstead, Shooter's-Hill, Eltham, Motting- bam, South-End, Lewisham, Beckenham, and Sydenham. SURREY. LONDON* £31 SURREY. Croydon, Beddington, Carshalton, Mitcham, Morden> Merton, Wimbledon, Ham, Petersham, and Richmond. MIDDLESEX and HERTS. Twickenham, Teddington, Hampton, Sunbury, Whitton, Isleworth, Brentford, Ealing, Hanwell, Wembly, Willsdon, Kingsbury, The Hyde, Mill Hill, Highwood Hill, Totte- ridge. Whetstone, East Barnet, Southgate, Winchmore Hill, and Enfield. ESSEX. Chinkford, Loughton, Chigwell and Row, Barking Side, Chadwell, and Barking. Cash, in gold or silver, or other articles of value enclosed in letters, (notes or drafts for money excepted) to be men tioned to the office-keeper at putting in ; but bank notes, or others payable to bearer, to be cut in half, and the second part not to be sent till the receipt of the first is acknowledged. This office is not liable to mak6 good the loss of any pro perty fent by post. Persons having occasion to complain of delay in the deli very of their letters, must send the covers inclosed, in a line to the comptroller, stating the precise time of delivery ; as the dated stamp will assist materially in discovering where the neglect hes. This office is under the direction of the post-masters gene ral, who appoint a comptroller, accomptant, receiver and comptroller's clerk and messengers. There are fifteen sorters and four sub-sorters of tbe letters, six stampers, besides a great number of messengers or letter carriers, within the bills of mortality, for receiving or taking in letters. Sherborne Lane, in which part of the General Post Office is situated, is so named from the many shares or divi sions into which the Lang-bourne was separated before it emptied itself into the Thames. At the corner of Abchurch Lane, in Lombard Street, is THE PHCENIX FIRE OFFICE, for insuring houses, f^-rmers' stock, goods and merchandize, and £32 LONDON. and shipping, from lofs or damage by fire. At this office hay and corn in barns or stacks, and other farming stock, may be insured at two shillings and six-pence per cent, per annum. Ships, barges, and all manner of water craft, also cargo on board, may be insured at three shillings per cent, per an num, for sums not exceeding 30Q0/. Larger sums ; also sugar refiners, sugar grinders, sea-bis cuit bakers, distillers, lamp-black and cart-grease makers, musical , instrument makers, cotton or flax spinners, calico printers, manufactories worked by steam engines, wind corn- mills with kilns, chemists laboratories, japanners, varnish makers, turpentine works, theatres, and other extraordinary risks, may be insured by special agreement. N. B. In London, — buildings and goods in the water-side districts from the Tower to Limehouse, and on the opposite shore, are, (on account of the additional hazard in those parts) charged one degree higher than such buildings ot goods would be rated in other situations. — Any number of buildings and goods in various places belonging to one person, or held in joint trust, or in copartnership, may be insured in one policy, but each must be separately valued. Abchurch Lane is mentioned by Pope, as the residence of Mr. John Moore, author of the celebrated worm powder, to whom the poet addresses himself in the following lines : " O learned friend of Abchurch-Lane, Who sett'st our entrails free ! Vain is thy art, thy powder vain. Since worms must feed on thee." Near Birchin Lane stood the house of William de la Pole, created a -knight banneret in France by Edward III. with al lowance out of the customs of Hull in support of his dignity ; he was an opulent merchant, and used to supply the royal wants; this occasioned Inmtohea^^ointed king's merchant.* Richard, his brother, a merchant in Hull, held also tbe fame office for Edward III. denominated " Dilectus mercator Ri- cardus de la Pole, Pincema noster." * See page 100. 3 The LONDON. 533 ¦The above William was the stem X>f a numerous race of English nobility, equally remarkable for their ambition and their misfortunes. His son Michael was created earl of Suf folk, yet continued in his office of king's merchant, and lived in his father's house. He at length became lord chan cellor; but being accused of embezzling the public money, and divers other crimes, was banished the kingdom, and died at Paris in 1389, of a broken heart. His son Michael was restored to the family honours, and died of a flux at the siege of Harfleur, in September 1415; and in the very following month, his son and successor, another Michael, fell in the battle of Agincourt. His brother William succeeded, and was created marquis, and then duke of Suffolk. He was the favourite of the spirited Margaret of Anjou, and was of distinguished abilities ; but by his insolence he enraged ths nobility so greatly, that, on an accusation of his being the cause of the loss of France, they banished him the kingdom. On his passage to Calais, he was seized by a vessel sent ejf- pressly to intercept him, and was brought to Dover, be headed by the captain of the ship in the cock-boat, without ceremony, and his body thrown upon the sands, where it was found by his chaplain and buried at Wingfield in Suffolk. The nobility dreaded his return, therefore took this method to free themselves from so formidable an enemy. John, his son, succeeded him. His son Edmund, who was condemned for a murder, in the reign of Henry VIII. received his par don; but in the following reign was executed for treason, in 1513. His crime, however, with the tyrant Henry VIII. was chiefly his relationship to the royal house of York. The venerable Margaret, countess of .Salisbury, as we have al ready mentioned, was barbarously brought to the block for the sarae reason; her son, cardinal Pole, would not have been sparedj had the tyrant reached him ; and Henry Pole, lord Montacute, suffered for corresponding with hira. And thus ended this ill-fated family. On the spot now occupied by the house of Messrs. Martins ~ and Co. bankers, formerly stood the house and shop of Sir Thomas Gresham. The grasshopper, which was the original Vol, IL No. 50. 3Y ,, sign 534 LONDON. sign used by that great man, is in the possession of tbose gentlemen, and is certainly an honourable memorial of so great a predecessor. Nearly opposite Abchurch Lane is THE PELICAN LIFE OFFICE. The system of life insurance was very little known or prac ticed in this country till the laft century; about the middle of which, the Equitable Society was formed upon a very liberal and extensive plan, under which individuals were enabled to improve the provision for their families by small annual pay ments, adjusted upon new tables, and upon rates more mo derate than those of their predecessors, and which became so far extended, as to allow the sum of 5000/. to be secured on one life. Previously to this foundation, other chartered companies had been raised ; but were very inconsiderable in their object or their effect till this period. In the year 1797, the proprietors of the Phoenix Fire In surance Company, determined to set on foot, upon separate funds, an office for granting- such insurances, and providing portions for children on their attaining tbe age of maturity. They purchased the house built by Sir Charles Asgifl, lord mayor of London in 1758, and associated in the new firm a number of persons of known opulence and respectability. The probabilities of the duration of life at every age hav ing been very fully investigated by the ingenious labours of Dr. Halley, De Moivre, Dodwell, Simpson, Smart, Mr. Barou Mazeres, Dr. Price, Mr. Morgan, and mapy other able enquirers, the table of rates of tbe new company were founded upon a comparison of the several computations of those writers, — of the tables extant of the several existing companies, — and on considerations of the present interest of money, combined with the aspects of the public funds. From the whole of these, the table of the Pehcan Company is, in many parts, reduced below the standard of the most moder ate among its competitors, and considerably lower than that of others among them. The prudence, the policy, and the benevolent tendency of life insurance, has been marked with the high sanction of legislative LONDON. 535 legislative recommendation ; for the sums expended for this purpose have been with equal wisdom and benevolence ex empted from the operation of the income tax, by a special clause for that purpofe. This precaution was of the highest importance to such as hold estates, benefices, salaries, pensions, or income of an}"- kind, dependant on their own lives ; and that parents thus circumstanced may hence make a secure provision for their families, who might otherwise become bereft, or left with inadequate support. It furnishes also a firm collateral security, 'which gives facility to those who have occasion to take up monej' upon loan, and to all who hold leases determin able upon their own lives, or on the lives of others ; for by insuring only the amount of such fines as are payable for re moval, life leases maybe rendered equal to' freehold tenures- We might recount a multiplicity of .advantages which would accrue from this method of securing property to posterity ; but we only think it necessary to mention an important ap plication of property to answer a praise- worthy end ; namely, providing endowments for children on their attaining the age of twenty-one years ; a period when they stand most in need of such assistance, and for want of which too many are pre cluded from settling advantageously in the world. .Such en dowments the founders of the Pelican Office, by a most la borious investigation, have been enabled to compute, both in respect to a whole progeny, and to individual children; and as in a major number of cases it might better suit the convenience of the parent or nominating relation or friend, to pay in by instalments some part of the premium or pur chase money, rather than to advance the whole sum at once, it became necessary to compute what ditdsion of the pay ments could be made wbich should at once provide for the , accommodation of the purchaser, and yet afford sufficient compensation to the office for the retardation of the premium, and foj the risque which it undertakes by that part of the engagement, by which it agrees in all such endownient poli cies, to forego and relinquish all such instalments as shall re main unpaid, in case of and after the death qf the parent, relation, or nominating friend ; the objept of this latter pro- 3 Y 2 vision 536 . LONDON. vision is to emancipate the widow or guardian of orphart claimants from any burden of payment, yet preserving the title of the endowed orphans in equal force, as if the whole cf these latter instalments should have been fully paid up. Such an institution could not long be without considerable and extensive patronage. Persoi»s in the highest ranks of the community soon became its supporters, and purchased en dowments for their children ; and although the cotnpany, as yet in its infancy, limit this part of their undertaking to sums not exceeding 500/. upon any one child, further experience, no doubt, will induce them to extend the plan, so as to ren der it an obje6t of greater attention among the higher orders of the community. The foundation and support of such in stitutions mark at the same time the wisdom and philanthropy of a country. The Pelican Office is under the direction of Sir William Curtis, baronet, alderman, and member of parliament for the city of London, besides thirteen trustees and directors. A board of directors is held on Tuesdays and Thursdays, from half past one to three o'clock for 'general purpofes: but insurances may be effected every day within office hours. Renewal premiums are to be paid within fifteen days after the time stipulated in the policy, or the insurance becomes void, but may be revived within three calendar months, by paying the said premium, with a fine of 10s. per cent, ac companied by a warrantee of the health of the life assured. No additional charge will attach to the premium on effect ing an insurance at this office, except for the policy, unless the person, whose life is proposed to be assured, does not appear at the office, or before one of the company's agents in the country. The charge for non-appearance will then be as follows : On policies for a single year, 10s. per cent. On policies granted for any number of years, not exceeding seven, 155. per cent. On policies for the vvhole term of hfe, or for any term beyond seven years, 20si per cent. Persons about to enter into tbe state of matrimony, may purchase endowments for all daughters ; or, if preferred for all children of both sexes, so as to secure the sum of 100,200, LONDON. 537 200, 300, 400, or SOO/. to each daughter — or to each son and daughter, on their severally attaining the age of twenty- One years, on the following terms : Premium pre- To be aided by V'ious to the future annual time of mar- payments of riage. £. 20 £. 2 40 4 60 e 100 10 200 20 For which respective pay-' ments . • the of- "> fice will guaran tee The sums under mentioned, to be to every paid to every son and daughter born Or everyj of such marri- daughter, ' age, at the age at the age of 21 years, of21 years. £. 100 £-!^0 200 100 300 150 500 - 250 500 A copy of the register of birth and Ijaptism, signed by the father (or in his absence duly authenticated) is to be deposited in the office within three months after the birth of each daughter, or each child, according to the case ; jind such register shall be entered on the office books tice of ex pense. No child to be admitted a claimant unless didy re gistered as above stated. The annual payment must be continued until the death of the child or children, or until they shall respectively attain the age of twenty-one years. - To guard against fraud, regulations have been established, and no one can be admitted to any of the benefits arising from the funds of the Pelican Office, but on giving the name, rank, and profession of the life to be insured,-^present resi dence,— date and place of birth, — age, next birth-day, — sum to be assured,— for what term,— in whose name or be half the policy is desired,— reference to a medical gentleman to ascei-tain the present and ordinary state of health of the person 538 LONDON. person whose life is proposed to be insured , — whether afflicted with gout, asthma, fits, or any other disorder, tending to shorten life, — and, whether the person whose life is proposed to be insured intends to appear at the office. The very striking and beautiful ornament of emblematical figures which decorates the front of the building is much ad mired, and is placed on the cornice ofthe fine stone front; a specimen of the most correct architecture, and always con sidered as a master-piece of the late Sir Robert Taylor. — The ideas upon whicb the group was founded were taken from the elegant pencil of lady Diana Beauclerk, and were executed at Coade's manufactory by M. De Vaare, a most ingenious artist. The recumbent figure at the east end has been particularly admired for its graceful attitude and ana tomical correctness.* In digging anew sewer near this spot in 1786, the remains of a Roman strata were discovered, with many coins and an tique curiosities of great elegance. The workmen had dug through fbur .beds, the first consisting of factitious earth, , about thirteen feet six inches thick, all accumulated since the desertion of the antient street ; tbe second of brick j two feet thick, the ruins of buildings; the third of ashes only, the depth of three inches; the fourth of Roman pavement, common and tesselated, upon which the coins and other an tiquities were discovered: beneath was the original earth: The predominant articles were earthen ware, mostly orna mented in a beautiful manner. The most curious parts of this interesting discovery were published in the " Archoe- ologia of the Society of Antiquaries." f The Roman antiquities dug up under the church of St. Mary Woolnoth, have already been mentioned. J Here also stood an antient tavern built by Sir Simon Eyre, wbich was called the Cardinal's Hat Tavern. This could not have been a place of resort for those who were in the habit of taking wine and exercising themselves in jollity; l^ut merely a warehouse in which goods were prepared for * Surop. Mag. Vol. XXXIX, 262. f Vol. yill. X Vol. I. page sa. ^ sale : LONDON. 539 sale: this supposition is strengthened by the sign of the car. dinar s hat. Sir Simon, by his several foundations appears to have been a pious man, and could not be thought to. ridi cule the cardinal's hat by placing it as a sign for the assem bling of pot companions. In antient Latin dictionaries, Ta- berna in its first sense is thus described "-^ JEdes admerccs vendendas parata ergo taberna est viercenaria, cum divei^so- rium, ct hospitium possint esse gratuita," &ic. Jane Shore, the celebrated concubine of the licentious Edward IV. was the wife of Mr. Matthew Shore, a goldsmith in Lombard Street. Kings are seldom unsuccessful jn their amorous suits; therefore there was nothing wonderful in Mrs. Shore's removing from Lombard Street to shine at court as the royal favourite. Historians represent her as extremely beautiful, remarkably chearful, and of most uncommon ge nerosity; the king, it is said, was no less captivated with her temper than with her person: she never made use of her in fluence over him to the prejudice of any one; and if she ever importuned him it was in favour of the unfortunate. After the death of Edward, she attached herself to the lord . Hastings, and when Richard III. cut off that nobleman as an obstacle to his ambitious schemes, Jane Shore was arrested as an accomplice, on the ridiculous accusation of witchcraft: this however terminated only in a public penance ; except ing that Richard rifled her of all her little property. But, whatever severity might have been exercised towards her, it appears that she Was alive, though sufficiently wretched, under the reign of Henry VIII. when Sir Thomas More saw her poor, old, and shrivelled, without the least trace of her former beauty. Mr. Rowe, in his tragedy of " Jane Shore," has adopted the popular story related in the old historical ballad, of her perishing by hunger in a ditch where Shore ditch now stands. This will be sufficiently exploded when we come to speak of that quarter of the metropolis. We close our account of Lombard Street by observing from Stow, .that '¦' as merchants formerly met here for traffic, so the Pope's merchants also traded here for their commodities, and 360 LONDON. and had good markets for their wafer cakes, sanctified in Rome, their pardons, &c. For I read thus," continues he, "in an old book, printed Ann. 1545: 'This fine flower (flour) have they made the chiefest of all their trish trash. I pray thee, gentle reader, were not his pardoners merchants to them ? Yea, it is well known, that their pardons and other of their trumpery hath been bought and sold in Lombard Street and other places, as thou wilt buy and selina horse in Smithfield." Through Pope's Head Alley is a passage into Cornhill, oppositfc the Royal Exchange, and closes the Fourth Rout- END OF vo-x,. ir. Printed by W. Stratford, Crown-Court, Temple-Bar. INDEX. VOL. IL A. i-CHERLEY, sir Roger, lord mayor of London in 1512, instance of his philanthropy and benevolen'ce ; p. 142, n. Adams, sir Thomas, lord mayor of London tal 646, epitome of his life and honourable character ; 28. Adulterj, .singular pmiishment formerly inflicted on a -woman taken iii; 121 ; — anecdote of a priest taken up for the same crime ; 125. AWermen,. list of those who have filled the civic chair, with an enumera' ¦ tion of the many charitable and religious institutions fou'nded and en dowed by them; 20 to 31.— Remote date of their office, and their original appellation ;, 33. — Ancient customs, and regulations respecting aldermen ; 34 ; — singular punishment inflicted on one for not lining his city cloak; ibid; — their persons formeriy deemed inviolable ; ibid; — their election for life first established, A.D. 1394; 35 ;— mode of their election; ibid. Aldersgate ward, names and number of its precincts and magistrates ; OS. Aldgate, its antiquity; 180;^ — important events which attended the rc- erection of that gate in the year 1 2 1 5 ; 1 8 1 . -ward, history of, its. situation, extent, and government ; 88. Alhallows Barking, church of, its foundation, size, and beauty'; 216. — Anecdote of Edward I. who erected the " image of the' glorious Virgin" therein; ibid. — Dreadful accident near this building in 1649,; 217;— and -wonderful escape of a child from destruction ; 2 1 8. — Particulars of the great personages who lie buried there ; 220. Alhallows, Lombard-street, first account of this church; 458 ;^de6crip- tion thereof; 459; — and of its monuments; 4C0. Alhallows Staining (Mark lane) history of that church'; 344. — Sihgular • custom said to have been anciently practised on Palm Sunday ; 345,' n. America, description of it? trade with Great Britain ; 14. ' Andrew Undershaft, St. origin of the name, and history of that church . its monuments, &c. ; 162. — Description of the tomb of Mr. John Stowe> the celebrated historian, buried here in 16,05 ; 1S6 ; — epitome of his life SUtiferpgs, and death ; 1S9. - ¦¦¦••, Arabia, description of its trade with England ; •¦ Architecture, ancient and modern, observations thereon ; 32,8 to 34-2. , Armada, Spanish, names and description of the various instruments of torture and destruction taken on board it ;- 248. Armoury in tlie Tower of London, description thereof, and ofthe various instruments laid up there ; ,930. — Account ofthe royal personages with in the horse armoury ; 242 ;--and of the instruments of war in tha Spanish armoury ; 248. Artillery Ground, description of it, -with an account sf the ArtiUery Com* pany ; 394. B. Bakers' Hall, description of that structure, and ifs use ; ^66 ;— Acts of parliament against mal-pracliees in the making- and selling of bread ; 267. — Accurate statement of .the price of the quartern loaf in the ditiei- ent mjyotalties from the year 1733 to 1806 ; 259. Bank Buildings, description of thera, and tlie offices. belongm§tljereto; 115. Voi,.II., A Barbara, ii , INDEX. VOL.11. Barbara, St. account of the ancient guild of, and the exalted personages who belonged to if; 205. Basingstoke canal, its history, and the names of the towns with which it communicates ; 79. Bassishaw ward, (the smallest in London) account of it ; 95. Beer, ancient recipe for making it; 195, n. — quantity exported in the reigns of Henry VII. and queen Elizabeth ; 195. Benedict, or Saint Bennet, brief account of him, aud of the church dedi cated to him" in Gracechurcb-street ; 359. — , St. (or Bennet Fink) church of, history of that edifice ; 450. — ; Particulars of the life and writings of the Reverend S. Clark, one of its curates; 451. Billingsgate Ward, supposed origin of the name, its government, and the number of the names of the precincts into which it is divided; 91. — Customs anciently paid at Billingsgate ; 285. -^Low price of fish in the reign of Edward I. ; 286. — Observations on the frauds practised in the trade ; 287.— Acts against forestallers and regraters of fish ; 290. Birchin lane, origin of ils name, and description of its inhabit.ints ; 1 23. — Singular anecdote of a poor countryman who lost his hcfod, and found it hanging up in one of the old clothes shops in this lane ; ibid. Bishop's-gate, brief account of it, from ils erection to its demolition ; 434. ward, its origin, situation, extent, and government; 89. Blood, bold altempt of that desperado to steal the crown of England, and the singular conduct of Charles 11. on that occasion ; 233. Boleyn, Anne, consort of the tyrant, Henry VIIL brief memoirs of her, and particulars of her unhappy fate ; 254. Botolph, St. parish, andw-harf of; see 305. — : church of, Aldgate, description of that edifice and its monu ments; 383. — church of, Bishopsgate, history thereof; 401 ; — account of its monuments; 402. Bowyers, account of that ancient company ; 457. Brcad-slreet ward^ particulan of its situation and government ; 97. Bridge ward within, account of, and of its magistrates ; 91. ;- without ; see Southwark. British Eire-office, nature of its establishment, and the liberal plan of in surance thereat ; 120. "Broad-street ward, the number and names of its precincts and governors ; 90. Burieigh, Cecil, lord, anegdote of him ; 171, n. 218, n. Burley, sir Simon de, epitome of the life of that illustrious knight ; 157. Butchers, account of the company of; 325. Cage, description of the prison formerly so called, and the crimes for the punisliraeiil of which it was erected ; 122. Cimaljiavigation, history of it; 71 to 84;— great advantages attending it; 85. Candlewick ward, its origin, situation, and government; 91. Canute, the Dane, anecdote of him, and the just reward bestowed, by him on a traitor lo his king and country ; 389. Castle Baynard ward, origin of its name, and account of its principal , streets and magistrates ; 98. *^ ' Catharine Coleman, St. church of, account and description of that struc ture; 179. , 1-7- — ^'reP. St. brief memoirs of her ; 173 ;— description of the church dedicated to her, and of its principal monuments; 176.— Remarkable occasion of instituting the sermon anauaUy preached ill this church ^ n 7. CaUjarijie, INDEX. VOL. H. Jil Catharine, St. Tower, history of the church and hospital, thereof; 198;--. and the dissolution of the latter, -with the illicit measures resorted to for that purpose; 199 to 202.— The present royal hospital founded, and dedicated to the same saint ; 202 ; — ijames of its principal benefactors ; 203. — Account of the two dreadful fires in its neighbourhood in the years 1762 and 1705; 206.— Description of the church, or free c}iapel, j its beautiful structure, and grand organ ; 207 ;— spiritual and teiYiporal jurisdiction exercised by the hospital over its precincts and liberties : 209., Cecil, lord Burieigh, anecdotesof him ; 171, 248, n. Chamberlain of London, nature of his oflSce ; 39. Chamberlain's court, description of it, and its jurisdiction; 53. Chantries,"explanation of the term, and the purposes for which they were formeriy endowed ; 306. Charles 11. king of England, anecdote of him ; 433, n. Charies V. emperor of Germany, anecdote of him, and the assistance he received from a single family of merchants ; 100, n. Cheap ward, account of, ahd the names of its principal magistrates and streets; 94. China, account of its' trade with Great Britain ; 14. Clnu'dies, number of, in London and Westminster ; 59. , Citizens of London, their present humane and honorable character and opulence; 54,55; — instance of the latter ; 56. — Their bloody conduct towards the Jews in the reign of Richard I. ; 370. City of London, its government, magistracy, and police ; with a list af its ofiicers, and the nature of their employment ; 17 to 41. — Account of the several courts ofjustice and,other courts in London, and their juris diction ; 43 to 54. ' ; City Remembrancer, see Remembrancer. Clare, St. her birth; 183; and holy turn of mind; 184; particvjlars. of her life, and the mir.acles she performed ; ibid. >- , St. conveiit of, its foundation; 183; — description thereof, and account of its benefactions ; 185. Clothworkers' Hall, description of that edifice ; 353. — History of the com pany ; 354. Coal Exchange, description of that structure ; 278. — Price of coals and the quantity imported at slated periods from tlie reign of Charles I. to the present time; 278. — Laws respecting coal-dealers ; 279. — First cost qf coals at Newcastle in 1800, and the further expence attending their delivery tothe consumer; ibid. n. — Penalties against mal-practices in the sale of this article; 281. - Coal trade, number of ships emptoyed in it, their aggregate amount, and the value of their imports and exports ; 15. — (See Coal Exchange). Coining, description of the process of, at the Mint in the Tower of Lon don; 229. Coleman-street Ward, its situation and government; 95, Coleyn's-ynn (or inn), description thereof, and of the great controversy respectingit ih 1391; 1S7. - Common Council, court of, description of it, and its jurisdiction ; 43.- — Crier of London, the duty attaqhed to his office ; 41. . Serjeant of London, his duty and employment ; 39. — Hall, the purpose for which it is usually convened ; 46, , Hunt, the nature of that ofiice in London ; 4 1 . •; Condamine, marshal la, his exclamation on seeing the paveracnf of I^ii'. ' don; written to tiie memory of sir Edward Barkham, who was buried thete ; . ibid. ¦ ¦ , Jeffries, lord chancellor of England (the cruel, instrument of despotism under James II.) insult offered to hira in his adversity ; 259. Jewel-office, Tower, description of the imperial crown and all the em blems of royalty ; 233. ' _ Jews, history of them from their introduction into England to the present " time ; 365. — Anecdote of William Uufus and the Jews ; 365, 366, n.— Instance of the arrogance of one of that body, and the direful conse quence of it ; 367. — Inconsiderate conduct of this people, and the per secution resulting from it; 368. — Anecdote of a Jew and a Christian ; 369, n. — Bloody conduct of the citizens of London towards fhe Jews in the beginning ofthe reign of Richard I. ; .370,^-Dreadfiil tragedy acted by that persecuted people at York, when assailed by the populace; 371 ; — they are plundered by Eichard on his return from the crusades J 372 ; but .are protected in the commencement of the reign of king John ; ibid. — he withdraws his protection, and puts them to great torture for the discovery of their riches ; ibid. — dreadful instance of the sufferings of a Jew on that account ; ibid. n. — Henry -III. summons a parliament consisting entirely of Jews; 374 ;— the purpose for which he convened them, and their great disappointment; 375. — Great slaughter of the Jews in 1262, and slight pretext for such bloody and inhuman conduct ; ibid. — Gross insult offered by a Jew tco llie Christian religion ; 376 ; — his punishment ; 377.: — Observations on the sufferings of this people in England ; ibid.- -The Jews, in the rpign of Edward L compelled to ¦wear a badge j ibid. — They clip and adulterate the current coin of the kingdom: 378;— bloody massacre ofth»ra inconsequence; ibid. — In 1290, Edv/ard seizes on the estates of the Jews, and banishes the great body of that people from England ; 379. -They are again introduced into the kingdom in the reign of Charles I. and suffered to remain un molested to the present time ; ibid,. — Description of the Jews' syna gogue in Bevis Marks; 380; — Form of prayer made use of "by that people for the king and royal family ; ibid.— ^Description of the syna gogue in Duke's place; 381.— Some account of the Jewish iparriage ceremony ; ibid. ~ , K. Kings of England, description of their figures in the Horse' Armoury in the, Tower, their real armour, apparel, accoutrements,' Sec. &c. ; ,246. King's Head Tavern (Fenchurch-street), origin of the annual meeting there of certain people to eat p^k and pease ; 346. Merchant, origin of that title ; 100, n. . Wtigh-house, its laudabW institution and object; 326. Kinsale, lord,, origin of the honor derived by.him from his ancestors, of wearing his hat in the presence of the king; 245. Knighten Guild, ils origin and singtilar institution ; 196.. * ' L., INDEX. V0L.IL . ix. L. LangbolU-n ward, particulars of its Situation and government ; 90. Leadenhall market, description thereof; 146, *— ¦¦ — ¦- street, distressing circumstances attending the fire in that street in 1782 ; 135, n. — affecting inscription engraved on the monument of those vvho lost their lives on that melancholy occasion ; 136. — Origin of the name, and description of the hall ; 141 ; — memorial concerning this fabric, shewijiig the ancient and accustomed uses to which it was applied ; 143. Lime-street ward, its origin, situation, and government ; 89. Lloyd's Coffee-house, account of, and the iinportant nature of its busi ness ; 114. , , - Lombard-street, history of the merchants who formerly inhabited and gave name to it; 452. London, its trade, commerce, ahd manufactures ; 3 ; — great advantages derived therefrom ; 4; — and weekly sum produced by the ' customs ; ibid. ; — is the centre of the East India and Greenland trade, and also , of the,Italian silk trade ; 5.— Account of the government of the metro polis, its magistracy, police, &c. ; 17 ;— resemblance between the legis- .lative government of the empire and the civil government of ,the city ; ibid. — List of the aldermen ^ho have served the office of lord mayor, from the year 1283 to the present time, inclusive; 20 to 32 ; — enume ration of,tlieir patriotic and virtuous actions, and the various charitable and -feligious institutions founded and endowed by them ; ibid. — De scription of the city officers, andthe nature of their different employ ments; 33 to 42.— The city representatives in parliament at certain .times take precedence of all the other members ; 42.— Peculiar privi leges enjoyed solely by the metropolis in the presentation of petitions to parliament; ibid.— -Description- of the court of liusting, and the court of Common Council; 43. -^Description of all the other courts held in and about London, the nature and extent of their jurisdiction, &c. ; 44 to 54.— Humane character of the citizens of London ; 54. — ¦ Description ofthe different classes of inhabitants in the metropolis ; 55; 'T-honorable character of its merchants and traders; ibid ; — instance of their opulence ; 56. — ^Comparison between London and other metropo litan cities, tothe advantage of the former; 57. — Grea't improvement in London since the year 1748 ; 57, 58.. — Account of Its ecclesiastical govertiment ; 58 ;^number of churches in and about London ai-id Westminster; 59. — Privileges and jurisdiction of tiie city of London over the navigation and fisheries of the rivers Thames and Medway ; ' ,66.:— London bridge asserted to be a disgrace to tlie city and an impe diment to the river navigation, and its water-works an incumbrance; 72 to 74. — Projected plan for the making of two canals near the metro polis; 75 ; — disinterested and generous conduct, of the citizens on the occasion;. 70;— the proposition made to parlianient, but violentiy op posed and rejected ; ibid.— Various other plans of a similar nature lor the , improvement and aggrandizement of the metropolis ; 77.— Guth rie's esti mate of the number of dwelling-houses in London, and of the annual consumption of, provisions ; S'l.- Hiptory of the topography of the metropolis ; 87 ;— the number and names of its wards, with Itieir orin-in situation,' extent, and government ; 87 to 99.— Exclamation of ma°shal La Condamine, on viewing the pavement ofthe metropolis; 99. —The merchants ,of London, inthe year 1531, transact tlieir com- ' mercial affairs in the open air, exposed to all the inclemencies of the weat'ier- 100;— to remedy the inconvenience, sir Richard Gresham.. (styled the King's Meichanl) addresses the king and his government Vol. II. B °^ at INDEX. VOL IL on the subject, praying assistance to erect a bourse or exchange, bu without effect; 103.-rSir Thomas Gresham ^son ofthe preceding) pro posed to the corporation of London, to build an exchange at his own expence, provided they give him a space of ground on which to erect it; 103. — ^Number of Jiouses cleared away for the purpose, and the expence attending the same; ibid. — The foundation laid, and the building completed in 1567; 104; — plan of the structure, and the visit paid to it by queen Elizabeth, who names it the Royal Exchange ; -- . ibid,- Expence of its erection, profits arising therefrom, with their dis posal and settiement by the will of the founder; 105. — Destruction of the building in the great fire of London, and re-edification by sir Christopher Wren; 106; — expence thereof, and particulars of its erection; ibid. — Charles I L visits the building, in the beginning of the year 1667, and is magnificently entertained on the spot ; ibid. ; — and again in the latter end of the same year; 107. — Description ofthe building, and its curious clock ; 109. — Enumeration and names of the statues which adorn tbe Exchange ; 110 ; — sketch ofthe building, and ofthe ivalks api)rnpriated to the transaction of business with the differ ent nations of the universe; Ul. — Singular punishments formeriy in flicted by the citizens of London on adultei-esses, procuresses^ Scolds, and other offenders; L2I, 122. — Dreadful ravages of the plague inthe metropolis in tlie beginning of the fourteenth century; 191,, n.— liistory of the Tower of London, the various purposes to which itis applied, and an account of sorae ofthe great and illustrious personages who ended their lives In it, with a description of the different instru ments of war contained therein, the jewels of the crown, royal mena gerie,, &c. &c. ; 22 h to 260. — Histoiyof the Custom-house, its sales, commerce, and govcrnmi.nit ; 201 to 265. — List of aldermen who have ' i511ed the civic chuir from the years 1735 to 1806, inclusive,"and the price of bread during their mayoralties ; 269. — Low price of fish in the metropolis in the reign of Edward I.; 286; — acts of the legislature, a.^ainst the foresU'iliers and regraters of this article; 2S9. — History of London Bridge from ils original Ciiiislrutlion to the present lime; 311; -i-w'ith an accurate description uf its -u'ater-works^, 317. — Description of the MonumenI, erected to commemorate 'the great fice of London ill lu'66 ; 3'iO ; — lratl^lation'of¦ the dilferent Latin inscriptions engraved thereon; 321; — explanation of the figures which decorate its bar; 323. — Account ol' the bloody conduct ofthe citizens of London towards the Jews in the commencement of the reign of Richard ; 370 ; — their subsequent inhuman and brutal conduct to that pei-seculed people in tire reign of king John, obliges that monarch to threaten the mayor and - magistrates of the city ;, 373. — Great massacre of the Jews in London in tiie year 1262 ; 375. London Assurance company, nature and extent of ils establishment; 125. Bridge, strietiires on ih erection, and great expence attending;^ its repair;' 72, 73. — Sum of money laid out on thelast alteration of it; ibid, n.' — asserted to be a nuisance, and an impediment to the river navigation, aud its water-works an incumbrance ; 74. — Scheme for taking down the whole structure, and for supplying the city with water from other sources ; ibid.— 'History of tliis bridge, from its original con struction to the present time; 311 to 317. — Accurate description of its water-works; 317. Lyckpeny, an ancient balUd, its singular form and ludicrous contents; 124. Tavern, account of it; 417. ;- \\'orkhouse, history of that structure, its government and sup port ; 3!i7. Lord INDEX. VOL.il xi Lord Mayor, the high importance, nature, and extent of his office and power; 17 ; — description of his official dress, and the grandeur of his public appearance; 19 — thfe cavalcade formerly attending^ his election more,magnificent than at the present day ; ibid. ; — his person deemed inviolable : proof of the assertion ; ibid. — List of the mayors who hs(ve rendered theinselves famous by their patriotic and Virtuous actions, from the year 1283 to the year 1806, inclusive; with a full ac count of the different charitable and religious institutions founded and endowed by them ; 20 to 31. — Form of the annual precept or charge of the lord mayor to the alderinen of the several wards, and the instruc tions contained therein; 47. — Price of bread in the different mayoralties from the year 1735 to 1806, inclusive; 269. Lord Mayor's court, account of, and the nature of ifs jurisdiction ; 44. Lovel, sir Thomas, knight ofthe garter and treasurer to the household to Henry VIIL his death, and curious account of the ceremonials of his sepulture; 138, n. ¦ LulM, Raimond, short account of his great learning, , and martyrdom ih the cause of Christianity ; 202i Lumley, lord John, anecdotes of liim ; 212. M. ¦ Magnus, St. brief account of him, his miracles, and martyrdom ; 307.— Description of the charch dedicated to him (London Bridge) ; 308 ;— ¦ and of the principal personages buried there; 309. Margaret, St. account of her beauty, sufferings, and steadiness in the faith; 327.— Description ofthe church dedicated to her, called St. Margaret Pattens ; 328. Marine Society, history of it; 429. — Spirited exertions of certain indivi duals, p?irticulariy of the celebrated and benevolent Jonas Hanway, for its establishment and support ; 430.— Letter written by him to a friend on tbe subject; ibid.— Beneficial effects of this institution; 432.— Regu lations by which the society is governed ; 433. Marshal Saxe, ludicrous anecdote of him; 56, n. i Martin, Saint, epitome of his life'; 414.— Dgscription of the parish church of Outwich dedicated to him; 415 ; — account of its monuments; 410. Mary Axe, St. church of, brief account of it ; 163. Mayor. See Lord Mayor. Menagerie, description of the royal one in the Tower; 256. Merchants and tradesmen of London, their opulence and honorable cha racter; 65. Merchant Tavlors' Hall, history of that structure; 408.— Desenption of the pictures' which adorn its interior ; 409.— Account ot the company of Merchant Taylors; ibid.— List of the august and noble personages Wio have been enrolled freemen of that company; 410tu413. Michael, St. church of, Cornhill, history thereof, and an account of its benefactors, monwnents, &c. 128.— Singular will of 1 homas Stowe (grandfiUlier of the great historian), who was buried m St. M-iehael s church-yard— a curious doeument, descriptive of the superstitious man ner of those times; 132. ^ ^ c ¦ V, Mincing-lane, origin of its name, and description, of the toreigncrs who formerly inhabited it ; 320. Minories, The, origin of the name ; 1S3. , Mint, The, description thereof, of tke different occupations of t-he per- .sons employed there, ^udof the progess of coming ; S2a. B 2 Navigation j^ii INDEX. VOL.'IL , N. " NavimtionMand, see Inland Navigation. NewKiver, its beneficial effects to London, and the spirited exertions of sir Hugh Middleton to produce them ; 69 ; — which ruined his f6rl;une ; 70. — Account of its source, progress, and extent, the number and immes of the places it passes, and its termination ; 70, 71. ¦ Nivernois, duke de, ambassador from France to England, anecdote of him ;' 112. , , ' ; Norway, description of its trade with England ; 13. Norwich, number of persons destroyed there by the plague in -the' 14th* century ; 192, n. O. ji Olave, king of Norway, brief memoirs of him; 334; — several religious |J edifices dedicated to him for his piety and defence of the christian religion; 335. — Decription of St. Olave's church, Hart-;street ; ibid, I -.-account of its principal monuments ; 336. - ^ Old Bethlem, history of the priory of, from its foundation to its dissolq- lution ; 398. Paddington canal, its history, and the number and names of the towns with which it communicates ; 78.' Palm Sunday, singular custom said to have been anciently practised thereon in the parish of St. Alhallows Staining ; 345, n. Parliament, instance of a Jewish one convened by jHenry III. 374 ; the king's object in convoking them, and the Jews great disappomtment ; 375. , Parsons, Humphrey, Esq. (a famous brewer, and twice lord mayor of London in llie last CL-nlury), anecdote of him ; 195. Pawnbrokers, origin of their custom of affixing tliree golden balls to their ¦ houses ; 453 ; , " ' ' Penance, singular one imposed on the rioters in St. Dunstan's church in the East, A.D. 1417; 270. Persia, account of its trade with Great Erilain ; 14. Peter le Poor, St. church of, origin of its name ; 446 ;^and historv of the, building ; 447. , ' * , St. church of, Cornhill, description thereof, and an account of its monymejits, .ornaments, and principal benefactors; 133. — Sin^iil.ir in scription engraved on brass under the organ gallery ; 135.— Affectinn- ¦ tribute .to tiie memory of dqiarleJ innocence erected in this church'^ 136. ; ,, . ' Petticoat-lane, gwat consequence and elegance attached to it in former times; 3S7 ;— wretched state of, it at present ; 387, 388. Pewterers' Hall, account of -it; 354 ;— incorporation of the company; Pie-powdet court, nature aiid extent of ils jurisdiction ; 53. Pig-street, singular origin of its naiue; 448. Pindar, sir Paul, (ambassador froin'James I. to the Ottoman Porte) his' great character; 397 ;— his praiseworthy, but singular benefactions to the poor;^ 404-.— liibtances of his great opulence, extensive charities an4 public spirit ;. .406. ^. . - ' ¦ . ' Pinmaker's Company,- history'of that fraternity ; 436. ¦»-'¦¦' I Pin ners ' INDEX. VOL.11. xiii Pinriers'HalL'brieraccount of it; 436. ' ' ' ¦' '' - ,".,.' Plague, tjie, its rise iii 1348, and subsequent progress and extent throiigh-. put Ejlrope; 191, n. — ^Niimber of deaths, in eonsequence, in the cbiirsqof one year, near London; ibid.^ — their number in Norvrich and Yiarmouth ; 192, n.— The pestilence ravages Scotiand, and passes into Ireland, where it attacks the English' settlers, but spares the natives; ibid.— Duration pf" the calamity; ibid. Poetry, English, ludicrous Specimen of, in the reign of Henry ,V. 124. Police of London, short account of it ; 54. Pork and pease, formerly deemed rpyalfood ; an instance; 346. jPcjpc's head alley, description thereof, aind nature of the business trans- ' 'acted there ; 11'9. Porters, Fellowship of, their number of brotherhoods, and different ¦ employments; 297. — Remarkable custom in use among them ; ibid.,. Portsoken ward, history of its origin, extent, and boundaries ; 87. Portugal, account of its trade with England; 13. Postern-row (Great Tower-hill), description thereof, and of that part of. ' the city wall adjoining it ; 210. Provisions, estimate by Guthrie of their annual consumption in London; 84;— their value in 158-6; 404. Puddings, importance of i-naking them well ; — an instance; 172. Punishments, singular ones formerly inflicted by the citizens of London on certain offenders; 121, 122. — Ludicrous punishment imposed on a . balf;er, for selling light bread ; 143. , ' Q- Quakers, description of one of their meeting-houses, and the ' principal doctrines helcf by that class of people; 392. Quartern loaf, accurate statement of its price in the different mayoralties from the year 1735 to 1806,, inclusive; 269. ,. Queenhithe ward, origin ofthe name, number of its precincts, and names of its principal magistrates ; 98. Rag Fair,, its situation, extent and business ; 189. ' Ram Alley; descriptioii of the collegiate chapel which formerly stood therein; and its endowment ; 146. Recorder of London, . nature of his office, and necessary qualifications to become one ; 38 ; — his present salary ; ibid — .small stipend formerly al lowed him, and the duty he performed fiir it ; 39, n. Remembrancer of London, the duty and employment of that officer ; 40,- Rhys ap Giyffydd, brief memoirs of that illustrious house; 333, n. River, navigation, see Thames riner. Ri'ver, New, see New river. Roman catholics, number of their chapels in and about the metropo lis; 59. , ' . . ' Romford, cruel execution of the bailiff of that place, and slight offence •' for which he suffered ; 178. Royal Exchange, proposal for its erection in 1531, when the merchants of London transacted their commercial affairs in the open air ; 1 03. — , Sir.Thojnas Gresham (styled the Royal Merch-ant) undertakes to build it at his own expence; ibid. — number of houseo cleared away for the purpose, and commencement ofthe building; 103, 104;— which is; completed in 1507, and visited ''y queen Elizabeth, who names It the Ro^al E.xchange'; ibid.— Expence of its erection, profits arising tiiere- from xiv . INDEX. VOL. IL from, with the disposal and settiement of the same on the d«ath of the founder ; 105 ; — Destroyed in the great fire of London, andirebuilt ky sir Christopher Wren ; 106 ; — partictilars of its erection, and tne expence attending it; ibid. — Charies 11. pays tw.o visits to the building, and is entertained in a sumptuous manner on both occasions; 107.-»-Descrip- tion of the edifice, and of its curious clock ; 1 09 ; — names ofthe statues adorning it; 110.— Printed form of the building, and sketch ofthe different walks contained in it, and their names 1 1 1. — Anecdote of the amiable duke de Nivernois, the French ambassador, when he \ isited thisedifice; 112. — Additional observations on it ; U4. Royal Exchange assurance office, its institution and object ; 113. , . < Merchant, origin of the title, and particulars of' the publi* actiohs of those who first bui-e it; 100, n. , , ¦'-* S. Savage gardens, their origin and situation ; 212. Saxe, Marshal, ludicrous account of him ; 56. i^colds, in former times, punished by imprisonment; 122. Scotland, state of its trade, number of ships employed, and value of their imports and exports ; 15. Seethin'glane, origin of its name ; 332. ;' Sheriffs, who areeligible to fill the office; — present mode of their election ; ibid; — nat,u re of their office, power, and duty ; 37. Sheriffs' court, nature of their jurisdiction ; 45; — remarkable oath ad-^ ministered to the attornies practising in those courts ; ibid. n. j| Ships, the number of, employed in trade in Great Britain and Ireland,- their aggregate tonnage, and the value of their imports and exports in 1798; ,15, 16. Shopkeepers of London, their upright character ; 56. Silk, its great value, and the emolument that may be derived frorii it ; 4, n. . South Sea Ho.ure, description of it; 400. — History ofthe South Sea Company ; 4 07. > ' Steel, its great value, and the profit that may be derived from it ; 4, n. St. Martin-le-grand, court of, extent and nature of its jurisdiction ; 54. — Mary at Hill, church of, some account of it ; 29S. Spital, history of the priory and hospital so called ; 395.-^ Account of the grand procession of queen Elizabeth to the priory, A.D. 1559; 397. St. Peter ad Vincula, chapel of, (7i'ower) description of that .edifice ; 252 ; — account of the several illustrious personages buried there ; 253 to 256. Stow, John, the celebrated historian, brief memoirs of; 169; — his suffer-- ings, death, and character ; 171. Strype, John, some account of" that exemplary di-vine; industrious bio grapher; and ingenious historian; 388. Sun Fire office,, principles of this institution; 115;— heads and condi tions of ils insurance ; 1 1 6 ; — and premiums paid for the same ; 118. Sweden, account of its trade with England ; 13. Sweeting's alley, dreadful fire therein, in 1759 ; 123. Sword bearer to the lord mayor of London, his employment, and the emolliment ' attached to his office; 41; — nice distinction between the modes of carrying the sword before the city magistrate and the peers ef the realm ; ibid. n. Synagogue, description of that belonging to the Portuguese Jews in Bevis Marks; 380;— and of that of the German Jews in Duke's place; 381. Tackle INDEX. VOL. IL, .XV T. TacKle porter?, account of them ; 298,. ThameS-and >'ledway rivers, court of conservancy, extent and nature pf jurisdiction, 17, n. —'- — — ti-^er, description of, -its rise, ptSgrBss, extent, and navigation, the number of towns and places it communicates with, and the names of the different smaller rivers and streams it receives; 60. — Privileges and'iextent of jurisdiction of the corporation of I.ondon over this river ; 66. — The city forms a towing-path on,its banks from Putney to Staines, afier much trouble, assiduity, and e.xpence ; 76. Xick.et porters, 297. Topography of London ; 87. , , .To wnCleik of London, the nature of his office and employment ; 40. 'I'fjwei-, history of the ; 224 ; — great ceremony used al the 'opening and shutting of the gates every night i^nd morning ;'225. — Description of tiie buildrngs within the walls of the, Tower; 220; — the White Tower; ilfld.— the Modelling Room and Mint; 229 ;¦— ofiicers empldyed there in, and mode of coining;, ibid. — Decription of the ancient and curious •Mpordi contained in the Tower; 232 ; — the Jewel Office, and its valua- , tele contents ; 233 ; — great clemency of Charies II. to a desperado who -JlBftenipted to Steel the crown from this pf^ce ; ibid. n.-^Decription of ,i#eSt'Orehouse; 233; — the Small Armoury, audits curious contents ; ibid. — the Horse -'Vrmoury and the illustrious personages therein ; ^ftS.-^Anecdote of prince Frederick (father of his present majesty) and one ofthe warders ; 243, n.— Description ofthe Spanish Armoury, the relics preserved to commemorate the memorable victory over tiie ¦ Spanish armada, and other curious antiques; 248, — Account of the Bchapel of St. Peter ad Vincula,. for the use ofthe garrison of the **Tower, and the inhabitants of its precincts ; 252. — Account of several 'Of the eminent and illustrious pei-Sons -who forfeited their lives to. tyran- [ll ny, and were buried here; 253 to 256. — Description of the royal i Menagerie in the Tower ;' 256 ;^and of other places therein not before mentioned; 257.— Account of the Warders and their origin ; 259. — Opv«rnmerit of the Tower, and brief re-capitulation of the purpose to which it is applied ; 260. ,- - —¦~~' hill, observations on a passage in Shakespeare's Henry VIIL relating to this place, and the strictures of certain critics on the same ' subject ; 222. ' street ward, history of its situation, extent, boundaries, origin, extent, and' boundaries; 87. Water bailiff of London, his office and employment ; 41. Watermen's hall, description -of that building, and its use; 293 7— rules and orders for the regulation and controul of the company of water men; 293. — Number of apprentices annually admitted inro this com pany, and number of wherries navigated by them on the Thames ; 296. Westminster," number of ehurches in that city ; 59. William Rufus, anecdotesof him and his Jewish subjects; 365, 366, n. Will Somers, Henry the Eighth's Jfester, some account of him; 245. - Wool, the great emolument to be derived from it ; 4, n. Y. Yarmouth, number of persons destroyed there by the plague in the four- - , teenth century ; 192, n. . ' York, dreadful tragedy acted by the Jews in that city, when persecuted and driven to despair by the populace in the reign of Richard I. ; 37 1. Z. Zouch, particulars of the noble family of that name ; 137. YALE UNIVERSITY "•w,= .'Sil-Pfjf'*' *H f; »!., *". ..>• illif'-; ¦