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YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

Gift of
Edith and Maude Wetmore
in memory of their father
George Peabody Wetmore
B.A. 1867

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IMPRESSIONS

OF AMERICA,

DURING THE YEARS 1833, 1834, and 1835.

BY TYRONE POWER, ESQ.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
WvbliSfitv in dStttimtp to ^ii IMajejitg.
1836.

% -5 3 Tc-
V. Z

CONTENTS

OF

THE SECOND VOLUME.

Nahant ......

Page 1

The Balloon .....

10

Taun ton — Cotton Manufactures. — Pocassett. — Rhode

Island. ......

ib.

Newport .....

22

Rhode Island ......

ib.

Block Island . . ...

28

New York ......

32

Rockaway — A Road Adventure. .
Journal ......

ib.
40

Impressions of Petersburg

82

Virginia ......

ib.

A Rhapsody .....
Impressions of Petersburg. — The deserted Church. .
Charleston, South Carolina

83 87
93

Total Eclipse of the Sun ....
Savannah .....

102 117

Columbus . . . • . .

132

Travelling through the Creek Nation

140

The Alabama River down to Mobile . - - .

ih.

Journal . . . ¦ • ,

162

New Orleans ....

171

Araerican Theatre ...

ib.

French Theatre ....

175

VI

CONTENTS.

Page
New Orleans . . . . .178
Journal . . . . . . ib.
The Theatre . .... 189
Journal . . .... 192
Mobile . ..... 211
New Orleans ..... 227
The Levee Market .... 247
Journal resumed . . * . . 252
New York . . . . . . 278
Journal ...... 291
A visit to Quebec, via Lake Champlan and Montreal ih.
The Sault au Recollect . . . .305
General Impressions of the Country and of
THE American People . . . 339
Adieu  .354

Appendix

357

IMPRESSIONS OF AMERICA.

NAHANT.
This rocky peninsula is truly a very wild and
unworldlike little territory, jutting boldly out as
it does into the mighty bay of Massachusetts,
and commanding a view of its whole extent,
from Cape Cod to Cape Anne, together with the
many islands, towns, and villages scattered along
the coast; whilst in front spreads out the At
lantic Ocean.
To sit within the upper gallery of this house
upon the cliffy and watch the rising moon fling
her golden bridge from the far horizon's edge,
until it seems to rest upon the beach below, is a
sight which would be worth something in a poet
or a painter's eyes.
VOL. II. B

2 NAHANT.
I never, either in the East or in the Mediter
ranean, beheld anything exceed in colour the
glory of these evening skies, or their depth by
night. Round about, near to the edge of the
cliffs, are scattered a number of dwellings, built
in the style of the southern cottage, having
low projecting eaves covering a broad gallery
which usually encircles the building: these are
objects upon which the eye is pleased to rest
when the moon deepens their shadows on the
barren rock.
One or two of the highest and most conspicu
ous points, whether viewed from the land or the
sea, have been very properly selected for build
ings, whose uses, however humble, admitted of
classic form. Beneath the roof of a temple to
Minerva, built upon the extreme eastern point of
the lofty headland, may be found the billiard-
table of the hotel ; lower down, the little edifice
cbntaining a range of baths is entered by a
Doric portico. The proportions of these build
ings are in good taste ; the chaSte cold moon
clothes them in grace and beauty ; and for the
material, what matters it, when, by her light,
painted pine may be fancied Parian marble!
The cliff itself is a very Leucadia, and as well

NAHANT. 3
fitted for a leap as love-sick heart could seek :
but there are no Sapphos now-a-days ; the head
of Nahant is likely to remain un-be-rhymed.
A little way to the northward lies a small
steep island, between which and the main land
the " sarpint" par exceUence has been seen more
than once rushing along at the rate of a steam
boat, with a horned face uplifted some fifty feet
above the waves, and a beard blowing about his
ears like the tail of a comet.
This account I had from more than one cre
dulous witness : certain it is, if Sarpint be fond
of fish, he is no bad judge in selecting this as a
residence ; for about this same island there are
abundance and variety, both to be met with at
all hours, as I can testify, having sat in a punt,
bearing a wary eye for hours at a stretch, and
catching all sorts of things except a sight of the
" sarpint." The nights here are indeed delicious, calm
and cool, with air as soft as velvet ; during the
day, for about two hours after meridian, owing
to the absence of all shade without, one is com
pelled, although the sea-breeze does its best, to
keep the house, or else get outside the bay of
Boston, away from the land : this I was afforded
B 21

4 A CRUISE.
frequent opportunities of doing, in a very pretty
schooner-yacht called the Sylph, which Mr.
F  s had down here. She was about eighty
tons burthen, capitally appointed, and with rare
qualities as a sea-boat ; in her I had the happi
ness to pass many days, when the poor people on
shore were pitiably grilled, cruising for cod-fish,
and dishing them up into a sort of soup called
chowder ; this formed, in fact, the one great ob
ject of my present life, and I availed myself of
every occasion to pursue it.
One of my pleasantest cruises was made with
Captain H  d, in an armed schooner called the
Hamilton, attached to the United States' reve
nue service. We ran down the coast as far as
Portsmouth, and on our return passed a night
within the snugly enclosed harbour of Marble-
head ; into which a couple of our cruisers chased
an American frigate during the last war, and
threatened to fetch her out again, but thought
better of it, after putting the natives to a great
deal of inconvenience through their anxiety to
provide a suitable welcome for the strangers.
Here we landed, and looked about the place :
the air was somewhat fishy, but, judging by the
ruddy complexions of the people, must be ex-

MARBLEHEAD. 5
ceedingly salubrious. It is not unlike some of the
French fishing-towns on the coast of Normandy,
and has an old look that pleased me much. The
place is said to have been originally settled by a
colony of fishers from Guernsey, whose descend
ants are found still to retain many of the customs
of the islands, and some words of the patois in
use there.
The population is famous for industry, and
for the summary mode with which they dispense
justice amongst themselves on points of local
polity affecting the general weal. One instance
was fresh enough in memory to be talked of still.
A townsman, returning from the Banks with a
cargo, passed a vessel in a sinking state, turning
a blind eye to their repeated anxious signals.
Contrary to all expectation, the crippled bark,
after being given up as lost, reached the harbour,
and the conduct of the hard-hearted skipper was
made public. He was seized instanter, triced
up, served out with a dozen or two well told,
covered with tar, clothed in feathers, and in this
plight was carted about the boundaries of the
township, having a label hung about his neck
that described his crime and sentence in good
set rhymes, which ran as follows :

6 MARBLEHEAD.
" This here 's old John Hort,
That for his hard heart
Is tar-ed and feather-ed,
And carry-ed in this cart."
This occurs to me as being the best practi
cable illustration of " poetical justice" I ever
heard of, and an example not likely to be lost
upon a maritime people.
It was about dusk when we landed ; and I was
at first greatly surprised by the numbers of pret
ty and neatly-dressed women we encountered
strolling about, or chatting together in groups,
wholly unattended by the other sex. I was
quickly reminded, however, that at this season
of the year the husbands, lovers, and sons of the
community are mostly absent in their vessels
fishing on the banks of Newfoundland, and not
returnable under ten or twelve weeks.
I cannot help observing that it does infinite
credit to the moderation of these citoyennes that
they forbear from taking the sovereign rule into
their own hands at these times, since assuredly
they possess the power of numbers to enforce
submission, were the resident housekeepers hardy
enough to offer resistance.
Early on the morning of next day the Hamilton
was once more under weigh ; we beat along the

MARBLEHEAD. 7
coast for some distance, then got before the wind,
and, after peeping into the harbours of Salem and
Gloucester, bore up for Nahant: when yet dis
tant some five miles from our destined port, the
wind fell at once start-calm, without much pro
mise ofa breeze till evening; a light gig, how
ever, and four stout hands, soon set us on shore
within the shadow of the temple of Minerva, and
concluded a very pleasant cruise.
A steam-boat daily plies between this place and
Boston : many persons come down here for an
hour or two, and return on the same evening ; a
game of nine-pins and a dinner of fine fish, with
advantages of fresh air and a temperature com
paratively cool, being the inducements.
The resident families are not, numerous, but
appear to mix sociably ; and, what with a drive or
ride up6n the fine beach between this and Lynn,
a sail in the harbour, or a ramble amongst the
rude crags by which the place is environed, find
means diversified enough of killing the enemy.
For my part, I am pleased with the place ; and
were it not that my incarnate foes have chosen,
contrary to established custom, to make an inroad
here, my satisfaction would be complete. But, as
it is, they have at length once more prevailed

8 NAHANT.
over my patience: with ray eyes nearly swollen
up and my hands miserably blistered, I find fur
ther resistance too painful, therefore have decided
upon flight after a fortnight's residence.
One of the preparations for my comfort, at the
dinner-table of Mr. P  s, with whose amiable
family I have latterly dined, was a cup of rose-
water and eau de Cologne, with patches of the rice
paper of China, wherewith to allay the intolerable
itching that attends the puncture of these winged
leeches, whose voracity is incredible. I have at
times caught a villain in the act, and watched with
patience until from one ofthe veins of the hand he
had drunk blood enough to blow out his little car
case to the shape of a tennis-ball, when he would
poise himself upon his long legs, and, spread
ing his wings, make an effort to rise, but in vain ;
bloated and unwieldy, his wings refused to sustain
him ; his usual activity was gone, and there he
stood disgustingly helpless, incapacitated by sheer
gluttony. In the first week of August I bade adieu to the
rocks of Nahant, and for the last time drove over
the beach to Lynn. Not having received any
letters during my residence on the little penin
sula — which, it appears, is out of the circuit of

NAHANT. 9
the post-office department — I called at the esta
blishment of Lynn to make inquiry whether or
no any letters had been forwarded here : the
young man in attendance " guessed" that there
had been one or two, maybe ; but if there was,
the stage-driver had had them. Now there being
a feud between the said driver and the hotel I
lodged in, my ever getting my letters appears a
doubtful matter : however, " I guess" I'll try.

10

THE BALLOON.
TAUNTON.  COTTON MANUFACTURES.  POCASSETT.
 RHODE ISLAND.
On arriving at Boston, I found the whole city
in movement to assist, as the French say, in the
ascent of a balloon, constructed by a Mr. Durant,
already well known as an experienced and in
trepid aeronaut.
Purchasing a ticket for the Amphitheatre, a
lofty temporary enclosure with rows of seats
running round it, I fell into the crowd, and
made my way across the common at the ex
tremity of which the building in question was
situated. Although the day was hot and bright, there
was a very strong southerly wind blowing ; and
rolling away to the north-east, heavy masses of
cloud passed over the sun like snow-drifts, pro
mising a rapid flight for the balloon.
This common, flanked as it is by the finest
residences of the city, the Bostonians often com
pare with our Hyde Park. Its surface is broken

THE BALLOON. 11
and irregular, and on this day the whole area was
alive with expectant gazers ; whilst the several
lines of streets leading into it were thronged with
hurrying reinforcements.
Selecting a point of vantage, I stood for
some time examining the materials out of which
this vast congregation was made up, and I have
never seen a population whose general appear
ance would endure so close a scrutiny as well.
I computed that the women outnumbered their
less attractive companions by at least a third :
these were all in holiday trim, of course ; inva
riably well dressed, but commonly having a pre
tension to taste and style I have never else
where observed so universally prevalent amongst
the same class. The men, both in air and dress,
were inferior to their female friends ; so much so
that it was diflBcult to imagine them belonging
to the same order : and this remark, I think,
will be found to apply generally throughout
the Union.
It is not difl&cult to account for this discre
pancy: a love of adornment is natural to women;
the general prosperity which prevails here en
ables all classes to indulge a taste for dress,
whilst the leisure enjoyed by females gives them

12 THE BALLOON.
facilities for acquiring those little aids by which
gay attire is disposed and set off to the best ad
vantage. After a time I slowly made my way to the
Amphitheatre, presented my ticket and was ad
mitted within the enclosure, where the arrange
ments for the flight were in busy progress.
The inflation was nearly complete, and the
huge machine rolled about from side to side
uneasily abiding the restraint which alone pre
vented its immediate ascent. It was covered by
the netting commonly used ; and about this a
number of volunteer assistants clung, restraining
the balloon whilst the aeronaut made all his little
arrangements. The car was a small wicker basket ; its cargo
consisted of a few bags of sand for ballast, a ba
rometer, and a couple of small kedges with lines
to match. I had no idea a balloon could be
brought up, all standing, by so small a cable.
I observed Mr. Durant devoted no small atten
tion to the disposition of a little fellow-passenger
he purposed giving a lift to, — a rabbit, muzzled
and netted within a small basket, which, being
appended to a parachute, was destined to come
from aloft with the latest lunar intelligence.

TUE BALLOON. 13
Chance, however, robbed the rabbit of the honour
of performing this desperate service ; for as the
balloon was about to mount, the pipe bound
within the neck of the valve was by some un
lucky pull withdrawn, and, before this could be
re-inserted, so much gas had escaped it became
necessary to make a proportionate dirainution in
the freight. The rabbit was at once detached
frora the car, evidently chagrined at the disap
pointment, judging by the resistance it made; and
several bags of ballast, together with such stores
as might be best spared, were also discharged.
During all this tirae, and the bustle conse
quent upon the accident, Mr. Durant preserved
the raost admirable coolness ; and, having stopped
the leak, next set about repairing his fractured
netting with infinite quickness and dexterity.
On a second attempt he rose in good style, loudly
cheered by the spectators within the Araphithea-
tre; but no sooner had he cleared its wall than the
shout ofthe people arose. Making a stoop almost
to their heads, he discharged the greater part of
the remaining ballast, and mounting again, was
borne away to the eastward with great rapidity.
The crowd dispersed immediately, but the whole
afternoon was filled by the accounts constantly

14 THE BALLOON.
arriving of his route, and the probable result.
Report was at an early hour brought that the
machine had been seen to alight in the ocean,
about sixteen miles north-east of Nahant, where
it sank in sight of several schooners, taking its
pilot down with it. Soon after it was affirmed
that a Portland steamer had rescued the man,
and that the balloon alone was drowned.
In this state of uncertainty the public con
tinued until about nine o'clock next morning,
at which hour Mr. Durant walked into the hall
of the Tremont, where numbers of persons were
arguing his probable fate. After the greeting
of his friends was over, he gave a very par
ticular and interesting account of the peril he
had been rescued from. It appeared that the
aerial part of his voyage had terminated, as was
reported, in the Atlantic, some miles off Na
hant. Sustained by an inflated girdle, he hung
on to the balloon, and was dragged after it
at no small rate for some tirae, until a schooner
falling in with this strange sail, gave chase,
and overhariled the queer craft.
As soon as the schooner got alongside,
a line was flung to the aeronaut, which he,
solicitous to save his raachine as well as him-

THE BALLOON. 15
self, raade fast to the car, and bade thera hoist
away : the first hearty pull lifted the balloon
from the waves, when, the wind catching it,
up it mounted. The line to which it was
fastened chanced to be the topsail halliards;
and whisk! before a belay could be passed, up
flew poor Mr. Durant high over the vessel's
raast ; after hanging on for a moraent, his
strength failed, and down he pluraped from an
elevation of some hundred and fifty feet back
into the sea. How deep he dived, or for what
length of time he remained below amongst the
codling, he did not say, not having calculated
" the sura of his sensation to a second :" but
he readily "guessed" he would no -how admire
such another tumble. His resolution, however,
was nothing abated; for he immediately began
to repair his balloon, and make ready for a new
" sail i' the air."
The day following the return of the adven
turous balloonist, I left Boston, accompanied
by my friend Captain B  n, taking the land
route for Newport, Rhode Island. Our vehicle
was a Jersey waggon, with a couple of capital
ponies ; we started early, breakfasted at a good
road-side inn, and reached the town of Taun-

16 TAUNTON.
ton about mid-day, where we halted to let the
heat of the sun pass over, and dine.
We took a stroll about the little town, which
is famous for its cotton manufactures ; and were
pleased to observe every symptora of prosperity
that might be outwardly exhibited, — a well-dress
ed population, houses remarkably clean and neat,
with rauch bustle in the streets. The military
mania, which pervades the whole country, we also
saw here exhibited in a way really quite amusing,
and by a class to whora it would be well were it
confined, since the display was more becoming in
them than in any less precocious corps of volun
teers I remeraber to have seen.
Whilst - standing in the shade of our hotel,
the rattle of druras gave note of some display
of war ; an event of daily occurrence during this
season of the year throughout these northern
States, where playing at soldiers is one of the
choicest arauseraents. Captain B^  n asked
a stander-by what volunteer corps was parad
ing to-day : " Why, I don't rightly know ; but
I guess it raay be the Taunton Juvenile De
mocratic Lancers."
Our informant was quite right; for whilst,
puzzled by the gravity, of the raan, I was con-

ROAD IMPRESSIONS. 17
sidering whether or uo he meant a hoax by the
style which he bestowed upon the gallant corps,
into the square it marched, with drums beat
ing and colours flying. The colonel coraraand
ing was a sraart little fellow, about twelve years
old, dressed in a fancy uniform jacket, and am
ple linen cossacks ; his regiment mustered about
forty rank and file, independent ofa numerous
and eflScient staff: they were in full uniform ;
most of them were about the colonel's age,
some of the cornets perhaps a trifle younger, as
becarae their station ; they were arraed with
lances ; and their raotto was raost magnaniraous,
being all about glory, death, liberty, and de-
raocracy. Nothing could be more steady, than
the raoveraents. of this corps on foot ; and, when
raounted, I have no doubt they prove as highly
eflBcient a body as any volunteer lancer cavalry
in the Union.
This could not be called " teaching the young
idea how to shoot," since the corps only bore
Varme blanche; but it was highly creditable to
the waggeryof the citizens of Taunton, and the
raost eflBcient burlesque upon the volunteer sys
tem I had yet seen, although I have encountered
many more elaborately gotten up.
VOL. II. c

18 ROAD IMPRESSIONS.
Whilst we were devising sorae raeans of visit
ing the principal raanufactory, a gentleman en
tered our room, and introducing hiraself said,
that, having recognised rae in the street, he had
called to know if he could be of any service in
showing rayself and friend the only lions of the
place, — its manufactories.
This act of politeness, which I have found a
coramon occurrence in every part of the Union,
at once relieved us from our diflBculty, and off
we set in corapany with our civil guide to visit
the largest depot of the place.
The designs of the printed cottons, and the
colours, both struck me as being exceedingly
good ; in texture, however, I did not conceive
any of the cloths equal to sirailar stuffs which I
had seen at horae in manufacturing towns. One
ofthe partners informed me that they supplied
large quantities of goods to the markets both
of India and of South America: the manufac
turer's chief drawback, he said, was found in
the cost of labour ; indeed, judging by the
dress and neat appearance of the young wo
men employed here, they raust be exceedingly
well paid : a comparison drawn between them
and the same class of employSes in England

ROAD IMPRESSIONS. 19
would be singularly in favour of the Taunton
" Maids of the Mill."
-The cool time of the day being come, we once
more had our active ponies put to, and away
they went as eager to " go a-head" as on our
first start. From this place to Pocassett the ride
was- lovely: our road lay high above the river;
and, over the luxuriant foliage, topsail-schooners,
large sloops, and other Craft, were seen working
their different courses, sorae bound up, others
to Providence, Newpott, or the ports on the
coast. A few miles from the town we came upon a
small clearing by the roald-side, evidently ih use
as a place of burial, and nothing ever struck rae
as more neglected ; a few decayed boards, with
an ill-shaped falling head-stone or two, were ali
the prosperous living had bestowed upon their
departed kindred. This neglect of those little
decencies with which, amongst most people,
places of sepulture are surrounded, is a thing of
comraon observance in this part of the Union,
and is one of the reproaches readily noticeable
by all strangers. The distinction in this respect
between the North and South is reraarkable, and
highly creditable to the feelings of the latter.
c2

20 ROAD IMPRESSIONS.
By the tirae we reached Pocassett it was
nearly dark, and here we settled for the night,
having driven the ponies fifty odd miles, without
their being in the least distressed, and on a day
of no ordinary fervor.
In the evening we attended a book sale, and
were much araused by the volubility and huraour
ofthe Yankee salesman, who, with his coat off in a
close crowded room, lectured upon the merits of
the authors he offered, whether poetical, religi
ous, historical, mathematical, or political, with
equal ease and grace, greatly to the edification
of the bystanders. The editions were chiefly
Araerican, raade to sell, and thus exceedingly
cheap. History and novels appeared to be the
literature in deraand ; and Walter Scott, By
ron, and Bulwer, the names most familiar in
the verbal catalogue galloped over by the
" learned gentleraan," as our auctioneer adver
tisements have it.
The hotel here was reraarkably neat and
clean ; we procured an excellent cup of tea, and
next raorning found a raost substa,ntial break
fast. After seeing the population assemble for
church, and walking about the banks of the
river, which are very beautiful, we about noon

ROAD IMPRESSIONS. 21
set out for our final destination, over a villanous,
rough road, reached Rhode Island, by the long
substantial causeway connecting it with the main
land, and from this point we had a good turn
pike, pulling up at Newport by two o'clock.
The public dinner was already over, being
Sabbath ; but the proprietor of our hotel, a wor
thy Quaker named Potter, got us a very com
fortable meal at five o'clock, according to our
wishes: raeantirae we rid ourselves of the ac
cumulated dust of two days, and were com
fortably established in out-quarters, the hotel
being full.

22

NEWPORT.

RHODE ISLAND.

The appearance of Newport is much less
imposing, as approached by land, than when
viewed from the noble harbour over which it
looks. It consists of one long line of close-
built, narrow streets running parallel with the
water about the base of the steep hill, with
many others climbing up its side. It is indif
ferently paved, and has a very light soil ; so
that upon the least land-breeze the lower town
is filled with the dust, which is blown about in
clouds. Before the revolution, Newport was a city of
comparative iraportance, and indeed, whilst the
iraportation of slaves continued a part of the
trade of the country, held its own with the raost
thriving cities ofthe east coast, through the great
advantage it derived from its easy harbour, but

NEWPORT. 23
with the abolition of that traffic came the down
fall of its prosperity ; for having no back coun
try by the exportation of whose produce it
might sustain itself, it was speedily deserted by
the mercantile coramunity, and its carrying trade
usurped by Providence, although the latter is
situated sorae thirty miles higher up the river.
A railroad frora Boston through the wealthy
manufacturing districts might nevertheless, I
should imagine, bestow upon this place the
supremacy which the diflBculty of land-carriage
alone has withheld from it.
Its great natural advantage to visitors is the
charraing climate with which it is favoured,
owing to its being on all sides surrounded by
deep water: this is a point that cannot be
changed by a decree in Congress, or removed by
order of the Board of Trade, and likely to be of
more use to the place, if made the most of, than
the dockyard and depot which they seek to esta
blish. If the English plan was adopted, and small
snug cottages built and furnished for the use
of families resorting here, these families would
naturally quit the arks in which they are now
congregated, and live each after the raanner of

24 NEWPORT.
its kind, as all wise animals do; in which case,
I cannot anywhere imagine a more charraing
abode, or one possessing superior advantages.
The general aspect ofthe neighbourhood puts
me in mind ofthe Lothians; whilst sorae of the
rides araongst the shady lanes, through whose
high, loose hedgerows glimpses were constantly
occurring of the sea and rocky shore, were not
unworthy a comparison with portions of that
Eden of our western coast, the Isle of Wight.
The harbour of Newport is of vast extent,
easy of entrance, and perfectly secure frora all
the winds that blow : its advantages in the event
of a naval war must ultiraately render it the
chief general dep6t of these States. The go
vernment appears quite sensible of the policy of
rendering this noble station perfectly secure in
good season : a series of defences, of first-rate
importance, are in a course of erection which,
when completed, it is supposed will render the
harbour impregnable to any attempt from the
sea. To Fort Adaras, the rough-work of which
is completed, I paid more than one visit ; and
nothing can be more substantially put together.
The necessity of a dockyard of the first order
being established at this point appears to have

NEWPORT. 25
been long and warmly pressed upon the adminis
tration by all naval men who have considered thp
subject : want of raoney, the great stumbling-
block of a cheap government, has hitherto pre
vented the plan being carried into execution ;
but it is imagined that this will not be delayed
rauch longer, after the defences are corapleted.
Since the decease of the gallant Perry, this has
ceased to be a naval station ; during the last
years of his life he held a command here, which
was almost norainal. .
I visited the place where Perry lies buried
beneath a siraple obelisk of granite: few heroes
appear to have lived so universally loved as
was the Conqueror of the Lakes. His short
but brilliant career, added to his youth and
reraarkable personal beauty, made him the idol
of the people; whilst his generous disposition
and winning raanners rendered him the delight
of his friends. I never heard the name of this
oflBcer raentioned without eulogium, mingled
with regret for his premature death.
My condition here is enviable enough : I have
a pleasant room, with a fig-tree growing before
my window, beneath which Captain B  n and
myself breakfast daily, well shaded from sun and

26 NEWPORT.
dust; not a musquito disputes possession with
us; and the dinner-table at the "Pottery" is
well served enough, and graced by several very
handsorae women.
Here is another large hotel near to us, which,
from its high bare walls and numerous windows,
we have naraed the " Factory ;" and a sort of
rivalry may be said to exist between the " Pot
tery girls'- and those of this " Factory." The
amusements consist of scandal, bathing, riding,
with an occasional boating party, but the men
are not enterprising, otherwise the facilities for
little pic-nics and country excursions abound.
The ladies, who have monopdlized all the spirit
here, contrive frequently to get up little hops at
one house or other, and these are conducted with
much gaiety and good huraour ; albeit, parties
hold each other at a wary distance, and, although
living in coramon beneath the sarae roof, have
classifications made upon principles which have
hitherto eluded my penetration, and are too
numerous to be easily defined by the most ac
complished raaster of the cereraonies Margate
ever boasted. The laws of our exclusives, how
ever incomprehensible, are, as elsewhere, arbi
trary ; and the votary of fashion must be con-

NEWPORT. 27
tent blindfold to follow the despotic goddess, or
quit her ranks.
Whilst here, I had observed for some time an
advertisement setting forth that on a certain day
a steam-boat would raake an excursion to Block
Island. This I resolved to join: first, because
any change was desirable which might kill a day ;
and next, because I knew the place had been a
sort of station whereat our squadron raanaged to
hang on during the war, althoughi singularly wild
and harbourless.

2^

BLOCK ISLAND.
Early in the raorning, the steamer employed
in this service quitted Providence with a full live
cargo ; and at Newport it brought up for about
an hour, during which time several recruits, my
self amongst the nuraber, joined her.
It blew fresh frora about east by south ; and,
in consequence, no sooner had we cleared the
harbour, than we were met by a heavy head-sea,
and nothing was to be seen on all sides but sick
ness, and the misery consequent upon the dilapi
dation of the pretty caps and bonnets ofthe fair
Providencials. Never was a party of pleasure-
seekers in a more woe-begone plight than was
this of ours when we arrived in the open road
stead of the raost inhospitable-looking shores of
Block Island.
Before we could bring up, the boats of the na
tives, apprised of our purpose, surrounded the
ship, offering, for a consideration of about a

BLOCK ISLAND. 29
quarter dollar per head, to land us upon their ter
ritory. The boats were presently filled; and from
the larger ones, after they had grounded on the
beach, we were by degrees landed in shallops.
On terra firma we encountered a few men in
no outward way differing from the fisherraen of
the main, but with a confirmed craving after
coin, which, however comraon to all civilized
beings, is seldora so openly and importunately
exposed as amongst these siraple citizens. Boys
of seventeen and eighteen years of age thought
no sharae to solicit a cent frora the passing
strangers, and were not readily got rid of.
The island, over which I wandered in common
with others of the goodly corapany of adven
turers, presented one uniform view : a rolling
surface, without any considerable elevation ; sea-
bound, without a single harbour, or a village in
the least attractive; half-a-dozen huts are scat
tered here and there in irregular lines, indif
ferently built, and having no care bestowed in
the way of out-door adornment ; not a tree
appears on the place, although in the sheltered
situations I should iraagine they would thrive :
in short, a less attractive islet I never reraeraber
to have visited, or one so utterly divested of in-

30 BLOCK ISLAND.
terest. The only pleasure I derived was from a
view of the open roadstead, where our gallant
ships used to ride out the hardest blows, much to
the surprise of the natives, who yet spoke ofthe
event with wonder.
Perhaps, on a visit like this, we did not see the
best sample of this isolated coramunity : I hope
not, for their sake ; for our followers had a greedy,
overreaching air and raanner really disgusting,
and in all our little transactions exhibited a sor
did grasping propensity one could not expect to
meet with in a people so out of the world, and
who are in the possession of great plenty : their
island yields abundance of corn and common ve
getables, the sea upon their shores is famous for
the quantity and quality of its fish, and therefore
is thia grasping spirit a matter of some marvel, I
found all my American fellow-voyagers who had
been on shore, equally struck with the singularity
of our reception, and especially mortified at the
exhibition of pauperism never to be met with
upon the raain. I passed two years in Araerica,
and the only place where I ever was iraportuned
by a native beggar was at this island.
Our voyage back was quickly accomplished,
being before thei wind; but the rolling of the

BLOCK ISLAND. 31
vessel occasioned a da capo of the morning's
scene, anything but pleasant, crowded as we
were. This was my very first attempt at a
" steara-boat excursion," the allureraents of which
are daily set forth, coloured after anything but
nature, in all the journals : a man may be ex
cused for doing a foolish thing once ; this is one
of the follies I can safely pledge myself never to
commit again. The Rhode Island party was
landed at Newport early in the evening, and in so
much had the advantage of the pleasure seekers
from higher up the river. If ever there should
chance such another tempting of " Providence,"
I hope, for sake of its pretty girls, it may be
successfully resisted.
On the 27th of August I took leave of New
port and its pleasant atmosphere and sociable
visitors ; and certainly think that it would be
diflBcult to select a place better adapted for a
summer's residence, were there any means of
conserving one's individuality a little : the situa
tion and climate being unexceptionable.

NEW YORK.
ROCKAWAY.  A ROAD ADVENTURE.
Finding a hot day in New York on ray ar
rival, I accompanied Mr. R  d and his lady
to Rockaway, a fine beach on Long Island, and
upon which a subscription hotel of enormous
dimensions has this year been built.
At this palace ofthe sand-hills, outside of which
nothing attractive is to be found save a breeze, I
encountered many of my New York friends. The
crowd was now thinned daily by departures ; but
if the persons who had departed were as agree
able as those yet remaining, and aniraated by
a similar spirit of enjoyment, their absence was
a serious loss. A spirit of sociability and good-
humour seemed to prevail here ; and the induce-
raents for walking being liraited to loose sand
hills, without the least shade, on a rough shingle
beach, the fun was all reserved for the even
ing, when the inmates asserabled in the draw-

A BLUNDER. 33
ing-room, where each contributed a quota ; and
music, conundrums, waltzing, a quadrille, or a
Virginian reel, made a couple of hours literally
fly away. Here, as in raost of the watering-
places of the country, early hours appeared a
standing rule.
This house is well arranged, and the table
exceedingly good. My stay was limited to three
or four days, a circumstance I regretted the
less on account of finding that most of my
intimate acquaintance were returning to their
homes. On Sunday, September 14th, at two o'clock
p. M., embarked on board the mail-boat for Am
boy, taking with me a nag I had used as a
saddle-hack throughout the summer months ;
my purpose being to ride through the country
intervening between the Raritan and the Dela
ware rivers, as I had done on more than one
occasion, but never before bv the same route
exactly which I now intended to pursue by way
of changing the scene.
I found five horses on board the boat, bound
for Bordenton races, and about five o'clock we
were all landed at Amboy, whence 1 directly
pushed on for my next stage, Hightstown. The
VOL. II. D

34 A BLUNDER.
road was a track of light white sand, and ran
through a close dwarf forest, stocked with a
fine growth of rausquitoes, but having no one
attraction to call for the halt of a rainute. By
half-past seven I had reached my quarters for
the night ; saw ray horse well taken care of un
der the superintendence of a good-humoured
Irish boy, who was ostler, and, as he informed
me, deputy waiter, besides having a " power of
other things to be doin' ;" next, partook of a
comfortable supper, and, after a short walk about
the village, to bed ; my purpose being to reach
Bordenton next morning by six o'clock, to take
the early boat for Philadelphia.
About three o'clock a.m. I was roused by
my host, who brought rae a light. He had
raade a good guess at the tirae ; but it would
have been as well had he slept an hour or two
later. My horse was soon got ready, and I set
forward to feel ray way, with an assurance that
I had nothing to do but keep right a-head, the
road being as straight as a hickory pole.
The morning was fine, but cold: the stars
yet twinkled brightly; but their light did not
suflfice to raake ray way very clear to rae ; so
I followed my directions implicitly, and for some

A BLUNDER. 35
time briskly. Unluckily, a sea of mist was to
be passed as I went through the low grounds ;
and, whilst in this, I could not discern my
horse's ears for the soul of me, notwithstand
ing that the punctuality of the steamer de
manded that I should lose no time.
I had a good nag under me, however, and
rattled on merrily enough, thinking to myself
what a very priggish person it must have been
who first promulgated the saying, that no wise
traveller ever quits his hostel before the sun
gets up, or remains out of it after the sun has
gone to bed. " There were no steamers at six
A. M. in those times," said I to myself, as I con
ned over the musty aphorism ; " and travelling
raust have been done by this raethodical person
at a very slow pace." At this moraent I heard
the rattle of boards, and becarae aware that I
was on a bridge : I instantly reined up, when,
rattle! up tilts some loose plank, and in goes
one of my nag's legs up to the shoulder. To
fall back upon his haunches, make a rear up,
and, in answer to a sharp blow of the spur,
suddenly to bolt over something and into some
where, was the action of a moment : in the tum
ble, that succeeded his leap, I got a couple of
D 2

36 A BLUNDER.
confounded hard raps on the side of the head,
which convinced me I had not lighted araong
feathers. My horse was either the raost stunned or the
most frightened, for I was first on ray feet ; and
after scrarabling up a bank below the end of the
bridge, I made shift to urge ray nag to get on his
legs and regain the road.
My upper story was a good deal confused, but
knowing there was no tirae to be lost, after ascer
taining that the horse's knees were not broken,
and that my bones though shaken were all whole,
up I got and away we started, with a new, and,
as it turned out, a bad departure. I congratu
lated myself on being so easily let off; for, had a
plank turned on the raiddle of the bridge instead
of the extreraity, the forward spring of my horse
would have precipitated us into the river, which
was less desirable infinitely than the dry ditch
down whose bank we had rolled.
On I pushed, and up got the day, slowly but,
brightly enough : a spire appeared in view, and
I considered myself at Bordenton ; the village
was quickly gained, but proved some place un
known to me. On I went, and about a quar
ter of an hour after saw a second spire. " Here

A BLUNDER. 37
"we are in port at last, thank Heaven," said I, for
never did sixteen miles appear so long to rae :
but no, all was yet strange, not a point could I
recognise. At a raoraent when ray perplexity was
coraplete — for, though confused, I felt assured I
had covered more than the ground lying between
my harbours — I saw a man with a horse and
cart leaving a yard upon sorae early errand:
riding up to hira. therefore, I inquired,
" Pray, sir, how far is it to Bordenton ?"
" Exactly eighteen railes," was the answer.
I conceived at first that ray question was
not rightly understood ; therefore, to raake all
sure, reiterated the inquiry, adding, " I mean
Bordenton, where Joseph Bonaparte lives."
" When he 's there, you mean," says the man :
" I guess I raean that too,"
" Bordenton eighteen miles off!" ejaculated
I. " My friend, it 's not possible ; either you or
I must be a little mad !"
" I 'm quite the contrary," observed ray sharp-
witted inforraant, " bein' uncommon sensible ; I
don't know how you feel about the head not
withstanding." I now began to imagine he was quizzing rae ;
therefore, in order to make hira feel that my

38 A BLUNDER.
questions were urged in anything but a jesting
spirit, I made known ray object in taking the
toad thus early, and concluded by saying,
" I have been riding for two hours on the way
to Bordenton, being but sixteen railes distant
frora it at starting ; so how, ray good friend, do
you make it out ?"
" Well, I don't know," was his reply, given in
a most unsympathising sort of tone ; " but I
reckon you '11 about double the distance if you
ride for two hours more on this road, as ydu are
now a-going."
" How so ?" said I, " Is not this the road ?"
"Oyes! I guess it is, only you're looking
towards the wrong ind on it, if you want to
fetch Bordenton ; but, maybe, you 're bound for
Amboy all the tirae, raister ?"
"And where the devil is Hightstown?"
said I.
" About two miles and a half behind you. I 'm
going there myself.''
At this raoment I do not think it would have
been diflficult to have made rae doubt ray own iden
tity, so utterly bothered was I ; but my inforraant
was quite right, for, turning about, I entered the
village for the third time this raorning, just three

A BLUNDER. 39
hours after I took ray first departure from it,
during which I raust have ridden at least twenty-
four railes.
Not wanting to answer raany questions, I
alighted at the rival hotel, ordered breakfast,
and looked at ray horse's legs. I found the hair
just rubbed off one knee, and that he was
scratched on the other leg frora the fetlock joint
to the fore-arra, but nowhere badly cut. After
a hasty breakfast I returned to the road, and got
safely to my destination in time for the second
boat. It was a blundering adventure, but served
me with a hearty laugh when it was over ; I
must, however, have been a good deal bothered
by my fall, or I should never have headed the
wrong way, dark as it was. My left temple con
tinued swollen for two or three days ; and ray
horse was laid up for a raonth, the glands of
his neck swelling, until a serious abscess was
formed, owing to his having pitched with his
head against the bank in falling. I narrowly
inspected the place a few weeks after this raorn
ing, and only wonder both our necks were not
broken.

40

JOURNAL.
Philadelphia, Sept. iQth. — The climate just
now is delicious ; and these clean quiet streets,
with the trees which shade them, have all the
freshness of spring. Many Southern strangers
are here, enjoying the delightful residence this
city affords at this season of the year. Chestnut-
street, if not so crowded, quite as gay as Broad
way just now, being daily filled with pretty
women. Theatre crowded.
24^/t. — Colonel B  ^ke and his family ar
rived en route for Washington, which they are
desirous of visiting previous to their departure
for England. It is a pity they are so late in the
season, or rather so early : the capital is desert
ed now, and hot as Jamaica ; even our hospi
table minister. Sir Charles, has not yet, I fancy,
resumed his good housekeeping.
%5th. — Had the pleasure of driving Mrs.
B  ke and Miss M  e to the works at

JOURNAL. 41
Mount Pleasant, and thence along the south
bank of the Schuylkill : the day was sunny, yet
not over warm ; the river and its beautiful banks
were never seen to greater advantage ; the foli
age, just touched by the hand of Auturan, was
changing fast, not "into the sear and yellow
leaf," but into the raost lovely livery in which
nature ever dressed her forests ; I had the sa
tisfaction of hearing ray favourite haunt suflB-
ciently lauded by the whole party. Dined with
Colonel B  ke.
27^A. — After a long ride in the raorning,
accompanied Colonel B  ke and ladies to
dinner at Mrs, W  gs. In the evening, a
small party, with music. A sister of our hostess,
Madame P  1, who is an accomplished mu
sician, sang some duets with Count S  in
excellent taste ; and we had Mrs.W  gs' harp
in perfection. She is certainly the best lady
harpist I ever heard ; her taste and feeling are
both good, her execution certain and brilliant,
and her touch nearly as firra, if not quite so
vigorous, as Bochsa's, whose pupil indeed she
is ; and infinite credit does she do her raaster.
Is it that rausic is more cultivated as a sci
ence in Philadlfelphia, or that I have chanced to

42 JOURNAL.
light upon a more rausical circle here than it has
been my fortune to encounter elsewhere ? Cer
tain it is, I have not, in the other great cities,
met any women whose rausical education ap
pears so exceedingly good, though a love for
the art, I should say, is general throughout the
country. 28th. — At seven A. m. left Chestnut-street for
Baltimore. Whilst steering through the waters
of the Chesapeake, perceived a large steamer
standing right for us, with a signal flying.
Learned that this was the Columbus, bound for
Norfolk, Virginia, for which place we had seve
ral passengers, who were now to be transhipped
to the approaching vessel.
We were out in the open bay, with half a gale
of wind blowing, and some sea on ; it therefore
becarae a raatter of interest to observe how two
large ships of this class would approach each
other. The Way they raanaged this ticklish affair was
really admirable : before we neared, I observed
the Norfolk ship was laid head to wind, and just
enough way kept on to steer her ; our ship held
on her course, gradually lessening her speed,
until, as she approached the Columbus, it barely

JOURNAL. 43
suflficed to lay and keep her alongside, when
they fell together, gangway to gangway : warps
were iramediately passed, and made secure at
both head and stern ; and in a minute the huge
vessels became as one.
Here was no want of help ; the luggage and
the passengers were ready at the proper station,
so that in a handful of minutes the transfer
was completed without bustle or alarm. Mean
tirae the interest of this novel scene was greatly
increased by. the coming up ofthe inward-bound
Norfolk-man, which flitted close by us araidst
the roar occasioned by the escaping steara of the
vessels lying-to, a noise that raight have drowned
the voice of Niagara.
As we thus lay together, I noticed that the
upper or promenade deck of the Columbus was
completely taken up by a double row of flashy-
looking covered carts, or tilt-waggons, as they
are called here. Upon inquiry, I found that
these contained the goods, and were, indeed, the
movable stores, or shops, of that rauch enduring
class, the Yankee pedlars, just setting forth for
their annual winter cruise araongst the planta
tions of the South : where, however their keen
dealing raay be held in awe, they are looked for

44 JOURNAL..
with lively anxiety, and theii arrival greeted as
an advent of no little moment.
They form a hardy and enterprising class,
and ought to be well paid for the risks and
great labour they undergo; being, in fact,
the mercantile pioneers of the continent, every
corner of which they penetrate from the At
lantic to the Pacific, supplying, in their route,
the frontiers with little luxuries that else would
never find a way there for years to come. They
thus keep the chain of civilization entire, bind
ing the reraotest settlers to the great Union by
their necessities, to which it adrainisters through
these its adventurous agents, whose tempting
" notions" constantly create new wants amongst
the siraple children of the forest and prairie.
Arranged in a half circle about the bow on
the main-deck, I observed the horses of these
royal pedlars : they stretched their necks out
to examine us with a keenness of look worthy
their knowing masters' reputation and their own
education. Our business being completed, the hissing
sound of the waste-steara pipe ceased, this force
being once raore applied to its right use; the
paddles began to raove, the lashings were cast

JOURNAL. 45
off, and away the boats darted frora each other
with startling rapidity; the Colurabus, with the
gale aft, rushing down the great bay of the Che
sapeake, and the Washington breasting its force
right for Baltimore.
Our captain, I soon perceived, was bent upon
overtaking the steamer that had passed whilst
we were busied alongside the Columbus ; and
so quickly did he overhaul her, that, although
we had not over fourteen miles to go, he left
her astern far enough before entering the har
bour to satisfy his hpnour, and prove the George
Washington the fastest boat. About four o'clock
p. M. we approached the wharf, amidst the usual
cries of " coach !" " want a coach, your honour ?"
given in accents always welcome to ray ears, for
they remind me of home.
I am here tempted to recall a little personal
anecdote, which is illustrative of the character
of this class of my countryraen, and proves that
the ready address for which they are so faraous
at home does not desert them on this side the
water. During the first visit I paid this city, I had
of course made particular acquaintance with one
or two Jarveys ; for I lived a long way from ray

46 JOURNAL.
work, and their attention was serviceable. On
my next arrival at the harbour, it was late :
we had encountered a snow storra, and I, being
wet and wretched enough, was anxious to get
to the hotel, having to play that night. I was
on the look-out as we touched the wharf, and
with great delight heard a voice raost melo
diously bawl out,
" O ! blur' an' oons, boys, if here isn't Mr.
Power !"
The planks were shoved over, and, at the
same moment, half a dozen voices greeted rae
with the accustoraed
" Here 's a coach, Mr. Power !"
" Och ! sure your honour '11 go vidd me this
turn, for luck !"
" You 're welcorae, Mr. P  : long life to
yez ! it 's I 've the coach '11 whip you up to ould
Barnums', snug and dry, in no time."
In the midst of this din, whilst I was yet on
the plank, I perceived a tall raw-boned Tipperary
lad, who had evidently decided on appropriat
ing rae, raaking his way most unceremoniously
through the crowd, shouting out in a tone that
drowned all competitors,
" Och ! thin', will yez stop yer bawling, and

JOURNAL. 47
don't bother Mr. Power, when his own carriage
has bin waiting for him here these two hours."
¦ An appeal like this was not to be resisted:
I therefore accompanied my friend to my own
carriage ; and whatever doubts I might enter
tain as to this part of my friend's statement, the
fact of its having been in waiting for " these two
hours" I could readily credit ; for I found it half
full of snow. I observed upon its condition, say
ing that, as I was expected, my carriage raight
have been better looked after.
" Wasn't I below looking afther ye're honour,
and that's the way the snow got in without ray
seein'it: indeed, we're not a dale used to snows
here away ; but I'll have it out and turn the
cushions, and powdher you up to the hotel in
a rainute." All this was said and done in an accent and
with a raanner that made rae for a moraent for
get the wharf of Baltimore, and fancy myself at
the foot of Essex bridge, or landing on the pier
of Kingston.
Just as I was sitting down to dinner, received
a note from Mr. S  r, offering kindly, that, if
I felt so disposed, they would next morning take
out the hounds, and see if a fox could not be

48 JOURNAL.
found. I accepted the invitation with pleasure,
and dined no worse with the prospect of a run
in the distance.
To the theatre, and early to bed, after giving
directions to be called at half-past five a.m., fox
hunting being an early business here ; in fact, the
moment the sun is fairly out, the moisture vanishes
from the ground, and afterwards it becomes hard
to find. Slept like a dormouse ; dreamed of dogs,
dykes, and red-foxes, until I was awakened by
my horse backing at a Virginia rail-fence, and
giving me a nearer prospect of his ears than was
consistent with the true principles of equation —
found Sam shaking me by the shoulder, with
warning that it was tirae to rise.
29th. — Took a cup of coffee, and mounted the
nag Mr. S  r had sent for ray use, with a sad
dle araple enough for a camel, a double bridle, a
martingale, and all kinds of traps equally perplex
ing. The martingale, judging from the pony's
make and carriage, I at once took objections
to ; but the white-headed negro groom received
ray directions to take it off with such evident
horror, saying with tears in his eyes, " Dat he
not at all good, no how neber, widout da martin-
gal," that out of courtesy I felt compelled to retain

JOURNAL. 49
it for the present, but with the mental resolution
to reraove it when we got to cover.
I soon discovered that ray pony at his ordinary
gait was a " fiddler," besides exhibiting slight
syraptoras of rausical talent ; he was, however,
cobby and well-built, showed much spirit, and
had a good spice of breeding about him ; pre
suming his pluck to be answerable, I did not
despair of being somewhere.
In the suburbs we unkennelled the dogs : the
pack consisted of twenty, all counted ; ill-match
ed as to size and bone, but appearing healthy,
clean, full of spirits, and in good working trim.
The huntsman, an old builder, of sporting
character, turned out with his dogs, mounted on
a powerful bay horse nearly thorough-bred, with
capital pins, and real Irish quarters ; as is the
uniforra custom here, I observed he rode with a
martingale, having slips of leather on the reins
to prevent the rings from drawing close to the
cheek. How the devil are they to jump tired
nags with these things ! says I to myself ; but we
shall see !
Our huntsman, albeit his equipraent would not
have won him credit or recognition as " a sport
ing man" at a costermonger's skurry in Batter-
VOL. II. E

50 JOURNAL,
sea-fields, had the quick eye, bright look, and
keen expression of feature common to all know
ing ones in the noble art of vtnerie : he raanaged
to raake his dogs obedient, and kept thera well
together during a ride of sorae six or eight
railes, although no two couple were at all match
ed in weight or power.
At length we cast off into as likely a looking
cover as ever hound was put through, and in ten
minutes after we received good inforraation from
a dependable quarter that Reynard was there
or thereabouts; the scent was, judging by the
tongue, not a very warm one, but our huntsman
appeared confident that all was right.
In a few minutes the cry grew raore cheery,
the lively dogs more anxious ; and whilst poking
through the cover, I saw the fox, a grey one,
stealing outward, and tally-ho'd him.
The dogs were wide abroad, but all busy as
ants ; the leaders confident, and showing no
signs of being at fault ; the old man declined
to hark 'em-to, preferring that they should find
their own way : this, after a good deal of
doubling, they certainly did ; an old hound
hit the right scent, by inspiration as it were ;
and went away to it as straight as a rifle-ball.

JOURNAL. 51
and almost as quick ; taking out of this cover
across a small meadow that divided it from an
other, into which the fox struck as quickly as
possible. It became evident, after a little dodging about,
that Reynard had raade up his raind to trust
to these neighbour covers for safety; the dogs
could not get hira off: we viewed the rascal
several tiraes ; and at one time I hoped he had
resolved to change his plan and go-away, for
he dashed from the cover-edge and tried his
speed with the dogs, leading them gallantly
for a few minutes ; but the beast had no real
game in his nature, for he doubled back for
another corner of his bush.
Thus he ran and thus we rode from cover
to cover, nearly always in the sarae line, for
full two hours and a half; when the cur being
brought fairly to a stand-still, was caught and
killed near to where he was first tally-ho'd.
The only interest afforded by this sort of chase
arose frora the extrerae tenacity with which the
hounds held on to the trail as they ran their
prey through all his doubles in covers closely
set with trees, and having an undergrowth of
thick brushwood and bramble, all but impassable. E 2

52 JOURNAL.
I was also much amused by observing the be
haviour of two young English hounds, that had
been imported this season only, by Captain
Stockton, from the kennel of Sir Harry Good-
ricke, and raarked H. G. on the off-side. The
slut took to this rough work as keenly as any of
the old hounds, and was well up with the leading
dogs throughout : but the dog would not face
the cover ; he stuck close to the heels of the last
horse in every skurry, and never evinced the
least desire to do credit to his gallant breeding.
About three o'clock got back to Baltiraore,
with but a poor opinion of Transatlantic fox
hunting, if this may be considered a speciraen.
My excellent and sport-loving friend, S  r,
informs me, however, that the red fox when
found is another affair altogether, possessing
great speed, and having courage to rely upon it.
In search of one of this faraily, I have pro-
raised to ride on Friday, wind and weather
perraitting; at present both are raore variable
than I can describe, the extrerae changes of the
teraperature, and the suddenness of these, utterly
surpassing all my experience. One day I have a
large fire, and the next, windows and doors open
in search of cool air : in the course of the after-

JOURNAL. 53
noon a change of twenty degrees is a coraraon
occurrence. The Indian suraraer has not yet
set in, but when the influence of the equinox
is over, we shall have, I hope, a few of those
divine days that raade last fall so enjoyable a
season. Since ray last visit, a very handsome hotel has
been corapleted adjoining the Exchange, of which
building it forms indeed a part ; it is to be
conducted after the manner of the Mansion-
house at Philadelphia. This is the work of two
or three public-spirited men, and the benevo
lence of their design merits the thanks of the
travelling community ; for the more such hotels
are multiplied, the better for thera.
soth. — Accorapanied by Mr. G  s, went to
look over a sraall collection of pictures belonging
to a Mr. Gilraour. I was struck by a couple of
portraits painted by Lawrence : they were the
likenesses of the proprietor of the house and
his wife. The gentleman was done in the best
style of this master ; and the lady, an exceed
ingly lovely woraan, was also an adrairable as
well as a raost attractive portrait ; but lacking, I
iniagined, that quiet siraple grace which makes
his feraale figures so refined, so inimitable.

54 JOURNAL.
Here were several good pictures of both the
Italian and Dutch schools, araongst others a
Cuyp, said to be undoubtedly original ; but,
viewed through the raedium of closely-curtained
drawing-rooms, on a dull day, it was not possible
to form a correct judgraent as to the true cha
racter of any of the subjects. The whole thing
was however in good taste ; and numberless ar
ticles of virtu gave evidence of the refineraent
and love of art which distinguishes the owner,
who, I regretted to learn, was at this tirae con
fined to his bed by severe illness. I had the
honour of being presented to the lady of the
house ; and, although many years have passed
since she sat to our late President, I at once
recognised her for the original of the charming
portrait to which I have alluded.
October 3rd. — Friday, at seven a. m., left Bar-
num's to seek for a red fox in company with
my friend S  r, and that fine old man, Mr.
Oliver, now no more. We were joined on the way
by three or four other gentlemen, and on we
pushed for the Neck, where the landing took place
under Ross, our ground being the field of battle.
The raorning was insufferably sultry ; but, as
it had rained all the previous day, it was decided

JOURNAL. 55
by the knowing ones that the scent would lie
well. I observed that we had on this day a new
huntsman, and, upon inquiry for our forraer com
panion, learnt that he was compelled to stay by
his brick-field. His successor, a queer-looking
fish, who was hailed as Colonel A  , afforded
me rauch amuseraent by the singularity of his
equipraent ; as we neared our hunting-ground,
my attention was yet more strongly fixed upon
the colonel by old Mr. Oliver, who raade seve
ral humorous allusions to a forraer hard run of
our huntsraan's over the same line of country ;
allusions which called forth loud laughter frora
all present, including the subject of thera, al
though I observed his merriment to be accom
panied by a whimsical air of embarrassment.
I was quickly put up to the fun by one of our
party, who informed me, that on the day of the
fight which took place here, it was the colonel's
fortune to command a battalion of militia fifteen
hundred strong ; he had been stationed with his
battalion behind a fence, with orders to raake it
good as long as possible ; but the general com
manding on the field perceiving that the position
was turned at sorae distance by a corps of the

56 JOURNAL.
British, sent an aide to the gallant colonel, di
recting hira to change his front so as to face the
advancing enemy, and retire to the next field,
where his flank would be covered.
The colonel, whose military eye now clearly
perceived that his position was the evident aim
of the advancing British column, whose quick
step was rapidly shortening the distance be
tween, listened to the message of his commander
with some impatience, replying to the aide with
admirable promptitude.
" Why, look'ee, raajor, as to changin' front
and all that, I calculate you'd best do it your
self: but I dare say what you tell rae about re
tiring is all right ; I see no possible objections
to that ; therefore, I wish you a very good day."
The colonel kept his word : no sooner said
than done ; retiring instantly in the direction
of home, and never halting for breath until he
reached the city, a march of about seven or eight
miles, which was accomplished in a tirae that
proved highly creditable to the wind and bottora
of both himself and such of his corps as stuck to
their chief throughout this rapid movement.
The worthy railitia colonel was tried by court-
martial, and broke, for this wise exercise of his

JOURNAL. 57
judgraent ; he still, notwithstanding, rejoices in
his military title ; and follows the hounds stout
ly at a good healthy old age, which in all human
probability would never have arrived had he
waited to change his front with a veteran corps
actively deploying on his flank in open field.
We drew a great extent of cover, but found no
fox ; indeed, if we had, the day came on too hot
for either dogs or horses to have followed far.
I was suflBciently delighted with my ride ; the
woods were beautiful, and from the Neck both
the harbour and city show to great advantage.
During this visit to Baltimore, I had changed
ray scene of action from the " Front Street" to
the "Holiday Theatre;" sraaller, but raore cora
fortable than my first quarters : this city is not
so theatrical as the others I have visited, but
no audience can be more agreeable ; they cer
tainly ought to like a play, for when they do come
they enjoy it heartily; and during my present
visit the house was unusually well attended. As
a residence I like Baltimore much ; its raarket is
equal to any other in the States, and cheaper
than either Philadelphia or New York.
The great race-meeting, on the central course
here, being to take place on the 21st of this

58 JOURNAL.
raonth, I resolved to attend it; and spent ray
intervening fortnight between Philadelphia and
Princeton, where I passed a few days at Mr.
S  n's, quail-shooting, in corapany with a
countryraan, whose society raade the longest day
light, and sometiraes indeed did as much for the
longest night. On the 18th I again quitted the
hospitable Princeton, and accorapanied Captain
S  n to Bristol, via Trenton. In the latter
place we found the whole coraraunity rejoioing
over the triumph of the democratic or Jackson
party, in favour of which the past election had
proved most decisive. At Bristol we took the
steamer for Philadelphia, and next day on to
Baltimore for the races : the weather for the
last ten days unexceptionable.
Tuesday, 21.s#. — Attended the central course :
a pleasant ride of six railes or so. On this day
was raade the first atterapt at running three-
year old horses with our weight and for our
distance, instead of the four-raile heats usual
here ; the atterapt was a decided failure : an
evident prejudice existed against it amongst the
sporting raen; only six horses were entered,
and of these four paid forfeit : the race becarae
a match therefore, and went off taraely. I

JOURNAL. 59
doubt whether the experiment will ever succeed
here, if even it is repeated.
Nothing can be more meagre than the ordi
nary accessories of an American race-course :
here is no assemblage of the beau-monde, no
populace, no four-in-hand drags, no costermong-
ers, no donkeys, no dukes, no thirable-rig, no
gipsies ; in short, " no nothin'," except a few
quiet-looking hacks and a sprinkling of sulkies.
On this day, I observed about a dozen ladies
in the corafortless stand : these were here in order
to qualify for the race-ball, the stewards having
given out that no invites would be extended to
any ladies who did not, on one day at least,
grace the course with their presence.
2Mh. — A better assemblage on the course
than I have yet seen : a good deal of excitement
stirring in consequence of "Shark" being en
tered once raore to run against the pet of the
South, " Trifle." The stand presented quite a
goodly show of women : a greater nuraber of
pretty ones it would be diflficult to collect in
any city of the size.
The race was won by the favourite " Trifle"
in two four-raile heats, two of the horses en
tered being distanced in the first: the tirae of

60 JOURNAL.
the first heat was seven minutes 28 seconds ; and
of the second, seven minutes 27 seconds.
" Shark" again ran under great disadvantages;
for, during his journey from Princeton in New
Jersey, he had thrown out a bad curb on his off-
hock, close to the articulation of the joint. Cap
tain S  n was resolved, however, that there
should be no disappointment, and started him
accordingly. He was badly ridden, and ran
lame for the first three miles, but carae well in.
For the second heat his rider was changed, and
he raade a slashing race, coraing in close to the
little raare. " Shark" is an Eclipse colt, of
remarkable power and beauty, and will yet, I
think, turn out one of the first race-horses of
the country.
In the evening, the race-ball took place, and
here were congregated most of the assembly-
going beauty of Baltimore ; but, I should say,
the cathedral is the place where the greatest
portion may be seen. I do not know whether
or not my judgment is correct, but the general
style of dress struck rae to be in better taste here
than I had elsewhere observed it; perhaps be
cause it was plainer, a style that suits my fancy
better than any mode having more pretension.

journal. 61
A good supper was one of the provisions not
least admirable ; a raajestic corned round of
beef stood on a side-table ; an object of adrai
ration not often presented to view in the States,
but of whose beauty there could be no two
opinions : for rayself, I did raore than admire ;
I at once addressed it ardently, and for its re
turn of tenderness can avouch : I gratefully re
member it, still cherishing the fond recollection.
A compassionate countryman of my own, who
saw me drinking iced champagne, bade me fol
low him : with that provident attention to trifles,
so characteristic of Ireland on sirailar occasions,
this thoughtful soul had not " forgotten to re
meraber" that a little whisky-punch raight be
acceptable on a cold night before facing the
air of morning. The compound in question had
been prepared by an experienced hand, and the
material was great indeed ; I was assured that
the spirit had been just fifteen years away from
its native city, Cork. Honoured be its parent
Still ! raay the turf ever burn bright beneath it,
and the New World long rejoice in its fruitfulness !
" For Oh ! there 's a spell
In its every drop, 'gainst the ills of mortality.
Talk of the cordial that sparkled for Helen,
Her cup was a fiction, but this a reality."

62 JOURNAL.
Sunday, 26th. — Was called early, having an
engagement to pass a couple of days with Mr.
C  1 at his country-house : found a gale of
wind blowing, with an accorapaniraent of heavy
rain : countermanded the vehicle I had ordered,
and returned to bed, since a country excursion
on this day was out of the question.
27th. — Accorapanied Mr. S  r to Carrol's
Island, having arranged to visit this celebrated
ducking-ground on our way to Mr. Oliver's seat.
We reached the house about eleven o'clock,
the distance being sixteen railes : the cottage,
which forras the head-quarters of the club of
gentlemen who farm this sporting-stand, was
plain enough for the raost republican spirit.
One sitting-room, and a couple of dormitories
containing a carap-bed for each raember, with
pegs and racks for arms and implements, formed
the whole of the appointments and furniture ;
but the sport is first-rate ; and the plain sim
plicity of this mSnage gives increased zest to the
meeting, and promotes the hardihood essential
both to the successful pursuit of game and to the
healthful enjoyment of the sport.
Before the hour of dinner, we walked down on
to the long neck of land where the shooters

JOURNAL. 63
patiently abide the flight of the ducks : on one
side is the Seneca, and on the other the Gunpow
der river ; both favourite feeding-grounds of all
the Water-fowl frequenting this region of creeks,
rivers, and bays. About the central line of the
neck of land, a dozen or so of stands are ranged
at equal distances, built about four feet high;
each large enough for two gunners ; with shelves
within for the various traps needful, a plank
floor, and a couple of stools.
Here the raen on duty take post ; and, chew
ing the quid of " sweet and bitter fancies "
patiently abide the raoraent when it may please
the canvass-back to give his bosom to the
breeze, and quit one river for the other. Half
a dozen Retrievers, of a mixed breed, lay loung
ing on the grass in front of this line of watch-
boxes, awaiting the raoment when work should
be cut out for their Sagacities. These were
admirably trained to their vocation, as I had an
opportunity of judging whilst a looker-on here.
On the occasion of a sraall flight, a couple of
long shots were raade, and a duck winged slight
ly : it raade a good downward slant, and fell forty
yards from the shore into the Seneca : at the same
moraent in dashed four dogs after it, belter-

64 JOURNAL.
skelter : there was a little sea on, and the object
of their search at first unseen by them : a wave
of the hand from the sportsman was the signal
by which their line was regulated, and for this one
of the four would occasionally look back. The
wounded bird, on being neared, dived, followed
by the foremost dog ; the others stanchly pursuing
the line of their under-course, directed by the
air-bubbles rising to the surface : in a little time,
up came the duck ahead of its pursuers, and the
dog close upon it ; being hard pressed, down again
went the duck, and down went another dog ; and
for several times was this repeated, until the
chase was nearly a mile from the beach, when
the dogs were recalled frora a pursuit which is
rarely successful unless the garae has received
some bodily wound, or has a limb broken,-^—
so active and so strong are these birds in the
water. At two o'clock we sat down to a most capital
dinner, — a joint of roast-beef, fine fish, and
Canvass-backs, that had been on the wing with
in a couple of hours, together with the Red
head, Teal, and two or three other specimens ;
all excellent in their way, but not coraparable
for delicacy, fat, or flavour with that iniraitable

JOURNAL. 65
work of nature the right Canvass-back duck of
these waters, where the wild celery on which
they love to feed abounds, and to which they
owe the delicate aroraatic flavour so prized by
the gourmand.
At five o'clock p. m., after witnessing some
sport, S  r gave the word to raount, and off
we set for Mr. Oliver's. An hour's ride brought
us within his domain, where lofty deer-fences,
blackthorn hedge-rows, well-made drives, and
carefully cultivated land, formed a striking
change from the wild but beautiful forest-coun
try through which we had ridden.
We first came upon the farm-yard and offices
of the estate, all well-arranged and in good
order : here we left our horses, and walked on to
the house, — a plain sporting-lodge, without any
outward appearance or pretension. It is well
situated upon a gentle eminence overlooking a
couple of fine reaches of the Gunpowder river ;
on the land side the deer-park spreads away
to the forest, being divided frora the lawn by
an invisible fence.
Hiraself an ardent lover of the sports of the
field, Mr. Oliver, for a tirae, took infinite pains to
cultivate a legitimate taste fgr it ; but, I believe,
VOL. II. Jf

66 JOURNAL.
without rauch success, although be pursued his
plans on a scale and at a cost not often imitated
in this country. Indeed, to say truth, men of for
tune have little encouragement here to be liberal
in this way ; since, when a gentleman has sur
rounded hiraself with all the appliances to sport
ing, it is next to impossible to bring them fairly
into play ; or, however social his own spirit may
be, yet harder to find persons possessing the
time and taste for their enjoyment.
The worthy old sportsman gave rae a grievous
list of difficulties which he had encountered frora
a desire to promote on this fine estate the breed
of certain animals and birds. Keepers were pro
vided from Europe with first-rate characters ; but
they found all their ancient habits were to be un
learned here, and were soon completely at fault.
The foxes killed his pheasants ; the neighbour
ing farmers, or boatmen from the rivers, had
decoyed his dogs and shot down his deer ; and,
after a hopeless struggle, he had given up his
hounds: the deer alone he raanaged to domesti
cate and increase, his stock at present amount
ing to four hundred head.
No spot could have been better chosen for an
experiment of this kind, as the whole estate lies

JOURNAL. ^ 67
within a natural ring-fence, bounded by deep
waters on two sides, and cut off frora all neigh
bours on the other by a belt of close forest.
Under other laws, time would be afforded for the
regular iraproveraent of this domain, and the
plans of the founder might be carried out by his
successors ; but, as it is, the present worthy
possessor once laid beneath the turf, the object
of all his pains-taking and labour will, in all
probability, be cut up into small farms, or be
allowed once more to degenerate into forest, as
may appear most profitable to his heirs.
This plan may be decidedly the most advan
tageous for the community at large, and I have
no doubt is, since it works well here ; but it has
a chilly and depressing effect on the mind when
viewed by one who would desire — and who does
not ? — to live in the creations which owe their
existence to his labour or his taste, and who
would revisit in the spirit the pleasant place en
joyed by his children, for whose dear sakes it
was first projected.
After supper our spirited old host gave the
hour of muster for five o'clock a.m., and we
severally sought our beds in order to make the
most of the brief tirae left for sleep. Much as I

68 JOURNAL.
love a fox-hunt, I freely confess that this early
rising did seein a mighty hard bargain.
28th. — Not choosing to be laggard, as the
thing was to be done, I was first afoot for the
honour of Britain; — the whole party, indeed, were
exceedingly punctual ; — and after a hearty break
fast, away we rode for cover, with a slight crisp
ing of frost under hoof, and a warm-looking sky
just opening over head, heralding a sun that
gave promise of raaking woodland and meadow
smoke again within the next hour or two; at
present, however, the air was nippingly shrewd,
to say the least of it, and set me to blowing ray
fingers like a trurapeter. At the end of about
an hour's ride the dogs were laid on, and almost
immediately hit off the scent, and went away
merrily through the wood at a slashing rate.
The rider is here kept wide awake by the vici
nity of the trees, raany of which are spreading
and low-branched, requiring a quick eye and
sorae suppleness to keep one's hat from getting
hurt when going " the pace," and, by St. Hu
bert ! these hounds in woodland appear anything
but slow.
Many dark dells and lovely open glades did we
thus hurrah by, and across, with barely a glimpse

JOURNAL. 69
in passing. In one place the path was com
pletely blocked up by two forest-trees,, appa
rently but recently rooted up ; they had been
rent frora the earth, and flung here frora oppo
site sides, as though a raere stack of rushes, in
the pride of their vigour and in the full bloora
of their beauty ; and here they lay to wither
boll, and branch, and leaf.
A whirlwind had evidently descended on this
very spot probably within a few days ; I say de
scended, for the whole circumference of the circle
devastated did not exceed twenty yards at most.
One other tree, yet fixed in the soil, presented an
awful example of the raight of the tornado. It
was a chestnut of the largest size, the trunk near
the base being seven or eight feet in circumfer
ence ; it reclined at what seeraed to have been the
very focus of the whirlwind ; its roots yet clung
to earth ; but, through the resistance thus offered,
the tree had been literally twisted round and
round, until it was split into laths, the trunk
having the appearance of a great bundle of sap-:
lings peeled and twined together by the hand
of a Titan, as lads twist withy-wands; the
sturdy limbs and spreading branches, although
little broken, were wound about and knotted

70 JOURNAL.
together in a way so curiously complicated as
hardly to be made comprehensible without the
aid and evidence of sight.
Attracted by this singular forest wreck, I took
to moralizing like the raelancholy Jaques, though
in a strain not quite so well worthy of record ;
and, losing sight of my company, was for sorae
tirae thrown out. When I caught the dogs up,
it was found Reynard was fairly gone to earth
in an inaccessible ravine ; so we even left hira
of necessity to his repose, which had been tole
rably well earned by a rattling burst of full six
miles on end.
In half an hour after we found again, when we
got a second run, which, with a couple of short
checks, held us in sport for an hour and a half,
with a sirailar result.
By this tirae the day was growing sraoking
hot, whilst the dogs and horses were anything
but fresh; so it was agreed to collect our, by
this time, scattered forces, and turn the rein once
again for the Lodge. To the sound of " merrie
horn and loud halloo" we took our way through
the pathless forest, picking up now a strayed
hound and now a man astray, until, by the time
home was reached, all our company was well

JOURNAL. 71
accounted for ; and so ends ray last fox-chase in
America. Let rae here insert that my hospitable host
never followed hound again : he on this day, I
remember, regretted to me that a pain in his
chest, with a growing difficulty of respiration, pre
vented his riding as he had once done ; within a
few weeks after he died, leaving a gap in the
hospitality of Baltimore that will be felt by
hundreds. Mr. Oliver was one of a class of ex
cellent open-house raen, of which class there
are speciraens to be found in every part of this
Union, raen whose frank hospitality is of itself
suflficient to keep up the reputation of the coun
try amongst strangers : many of these yet live,
and I trust will long live, to the lasting honour
of the States.
By birth, the subject of this notice was an
Irishman ; but his affections, his sympathies, his
prejudices, were all on the side of his adopted
country, which in his eyes had no equal in the
world. It was amusing to hear him speak of his
visits to Europe : to England only did he cede
the right even of coraparison ; and on the sub
ject of our wines he was quite a sceptic, although
he had dined at the best tables, and spoke raost

72 JOURNAL.
warraly of his entertainers. He protested against
the wines of England being at all coraparable
to those of Araerica ; nay, I reraember he was
heretic enough to deny us the supremacy of a
rump-steak, and raised his voice against the
majesty of Dolly's.
I would not have so much heeded his ad
vancing this heterodox doctrine before Ameri
cans, had he not at the sarae tirae corae well
prepared to prove hiraself qualified to give judg
raent by producing, hot-and-hot, a steak that
even I was compelled to admit raight have been
entered as A. I. at Lloyd's.
They possess in the States generally as good
beef as need be desired ; but, strange to say,
with this exception, I have rarely met a tole
rable steak, according to our idea of the mat
ter; the secret df which is, the meat is not
kept, is full of blood and fibre, and, although
excellent of flavour, is not easily disposed of
by those who reject the bolting principle, and
desire to adhere to the more toilsome plan of
mastication. 29th. — Quitted the pleasant banks of the Gun
powder, and, with ray old sporting companion,
returned to Baltimore. Same day, erabarked
on board steam-boat for an excursion as far

JOURNAL. 73
as Petersburg, Virginia, via Norfolk ; we had
a fine day and night whilst steering through
this great bay of the Chesapeake : went to bed
late in consequence.
soth  Coming out of the cabin this morn
ing at an early hour, found we were off the old
fort. Point Comfort. Fort Calhoun, a work on
which enormous outlay has been made, is not
yet completed: the great diflBculty appears to
be the unstable nature of the bank on which the
works are placed : upon the elevation of the
terre-plain alone, nearly four thousand cubic
yards of sand have been employed ; all of which
is shipped from the main, and deposited within
the fort. It is computed that, by the time this
place is fitted to receive a garrison, one hun
dred thousand tons of stone will have been ex
pended on the works and breakwater which are
required as an exterior support to the pressure
from within.
The completion of this truly great railitary
work must, in a great measure, depend upon
the decrease of the subsidence to which the
soil is liable, and for which it is necessary to
pause after every year's addition of pressure, in
order to proportion such a resistance as raay
restore the equilibrium and secure the founda-

74 JOURNAL.
tion. When I was here, one of these pauses in
the engineering department had place ; but it
was said, the President had intimated his de
sign of passing the hot season upon this spot,
when the works would be vigorously resumed
under his inspection.
Sailing up the Elizabeth river, so famous in
the gallant Raleigh's story, we reached Norfolk
at eight o'clock a.m., when a portion of our
living freight was quickly transferred to the
Virginia steamer for Charleston ; another por
tion, to which I was attached, being, with simi
lar proraptitude, handed over to the Pocahontas
ditto, bound for Richraond, the capital of Vir
ginia. In less than an hour we were, sailing
back through the well-closed harbour of Nor
folk; whence, crossing the Elizabeth river, we
entered, in a couple of hours, the noble stream
now rightly called, after its legitimate sovereign,
the Powhatan, but better known as the Jaraes's
river, — "a great sinking in the poetry of the
thing," though Jamie also was a king, " but no
more like his brother," &c.
Upon the southern banks rise a constant series
of fine bold bluffs, mostly crowned with forest
trees of great beauty, now dressed in that rich-

JOURNAL. 75
coloured foliage so often lauded by poet and
painter, but as yet, I fancy, never done full
justice to. Scott and Turner, those inspired
illustrators of nature, might have done this : as
it is, I hope Araerica will, before many years
are past, find, araongst her own sons, pens and
pencils worthy to give her beauties to the ad
miration of the Old World.
We arrived off the original city founded in
the " Old Dominion," having sorae passengers
to land upon the beach, now almost as wild as
when first trodden by the adventurous foot of
the bold Captain Smith. Within a few yards
of the landing-place stood the first Christian
church erected on this raighty continent : I
grieve to add, this interesting altar to the true
God no longer bears his holy word: a dilapi
dated, but sturdy-looking square tower of brick,
alone reraains to raark the site of church and city;
indeed, without timely care is bestowed by some
gentle, generous spirit, even this most interesting
meraorial will speedily disappear. At present
this forms one of the very few objects to which
the term picturesque may properly be applied,
existing in the States ; and, linked as it is with
the recollections of its gallant founders, I con-

76 JOURNAL.
fess it laid strong hold of ray imagination, ab
sorbing my eyes and interest as long as I could
keep it in view.
The low, unhealthy site of this city proved,
after a prolonged struggle, the cause, I believe,
of its total desertion. Elizabeth Town, its near
neighbour and once rival, is, I have been in
formed, fast verging to a similar condition.
Scattered along the banks on both sides of the
river, are several mansions raised in the old
times by the wealthy planters of the " Old Do
minion," the remembrance of whose liberal ex
penditure and open hospitality still does honour
to their state. These houses have a strong re-'
semblance to the English squirearchical dwell
ings of the last century, being generally large
square brick buildings, coraraonly flanked by
low disproportioned wings ; they have all hos
pitable-looking entrances, and flights of steps
made with reference to the nuraber and free
access of the visitors rather than in keeping
with the size of the house ; their steep, raany-
chiraneyed roofs are usually surrounded by a
showy balustrade, and their appearance irapos
ing and respectable, bes,peaking aflfiuence and
good housekeeping.

JOURNAL. 77
One or two of these mansions stood upon fine
open lawns of some extent, which swept down
until their grass mingled with the waters of the
gently-flowing river, offering a slope of great
natural beauty, studded with clumps of goodly
trees; the whole, however, having that most
melancholy air of neglect that seemed to say
their best days were " the days that are gone."
Under the existing law of the States those
days may not be expected ever to return ; and
such places as are, here alluded to cannot be
kept up in families whose possessions, however
araple originally, must be parcelled out at the
demise of each inheritor, until, like poor Sir
Lucius, the "mansion-house and the dirty acres"
having slipped through the not over-tenacious
fingers of the Virginian proprietor, the family
honour and the family pictures will alone be
left. In reverting again to the subject of this law,
which I confess I have only viewed under its
most melancholy aspect, I must add that it is by
no means unpopular here, being, in fact, perfectly
accordant with both reason and justice, and pro
bably, as far as the commonwealth is concerned,
for the best ; yet cannot I look without regret

78 JOURNAL,
on this oblivion of the once gentle of the land,
and the scattering of the children of those brave
men whose blood and labour redeemed the wilder
ness, or won it frora the savage and his prey.
Quitted the Pocahontas at City-point ; where
fore so called I know not, since here is neither
city nor point that I could discover, but only a
few buildings, and a fine natural wharf at which
two noble ships were lying taking in tobacco
and cotton.
Whilst waiting at the landing-place araidst
the bustle incident to shifting baggage, landing
passengers, and packing carriages, I witnessed
a wedding assemblage that amused me highly,
and was no bad sample of slavery in the Old
Dominion. From a large hut close to where we were set
ashore poured forth a bevy of beauty of all
colours, frora the deepest jet up to the quadroon
just tinged with araber. They were for the raost
part dressed in white, many having expensive
scarfs of gay colours, and all wearing wreaths
and bouquets of the most beautiful flowers, taste
fully arranged and put on. I had only time to
learn that itwas a wedding-party, and to "guess"
at the bride. I hit upon a plurap, roguish-look-

JOURNAL. 79
ing little devil, having a skin like new copper,
teeth of pearl, and eyes black as " Kilkenny's
own coal." She was, I observed, the centre of
the many-tinted circle, and wore, moreover, a
wreath composed of the pearl-like wax-berry in
her jetty hair.
These, as I was inforraed, were all slaves ;
certainly a merrier-looking party I never saw of
white folk, and, for this occasion, their chain
was literally hidden under wreaths of roses ; for
a day, at least, they were very happy, and who
araongst the freest can count on what the raorrow
raay bring forth !
This was the first glance I had been allowed
of the Virginian agricultural slave, and I was not
ill pleased to be presented with the bright side
of a condition which, to the raind of the phil
anthropist of every land, is sufficiently painful
without the exaggerations of the political quack,
or the fanatic outcry of the sectarian bigot seek
ing to preach a crusade of extermination against
men whose slaves form their only inheritance,
himself meantirae, for the most selfish ends,
daily planning how best to enslave the mental
part of those whose credulity and weakness ex
pose thera for a prey.

80 JOURNAL.
There are few proprietors, at this day, more to
be pitied than the large planters of Virginia and
the Carolinas ; as high-spirited, generous a race
as raay anywhere be encountered, but rauch
weighed down of late by the pressure of cir
cumstances which they cannot control, and which
every year threatens to render more heavy, un
less, through sorae miraculous interposition, the
growing causes be reraoved or checked. The
Very slave property, for the inherited possession
of which they are abused, is becoming in many
cases a burthen. Their more southern rivals
can grow cheaper, and, having a fresher soil,
produce larger crops and outsell thera in the
raarket ; whilst, with a slave population, they
have no chance of ever becoraing manufactu
rers. From City-point, a well-horsed coach took us
fourteen miles, under two hours, to the busy
little city of St. Petersburg ; where, over a cup
of tea, and a good Virginy coal fire, I reviewed
this journey of a couple of days, which had
afforded me many subjects for admiration and
reflection. I smoked my cigar, and, at an early
hour, retired to ray bed, of which I had a choice,
there being three in the room, although, at this

JOURNAL. 81
time, exclusively appropriated to me. I soon
was fast asleep, drearaing confusedly of Captain
Sraith, Pocahontas, Lord Cornwallis, Queen
Elizabeth, Powhatan, Sir Walter Raleigh, and
Sir George Cockburn.

VOL. II.

82

IMPRESSIONS OF PETERSBURG,

VIRGINIA.

" And here I ara," said I to rayself, on wak
ing, and finding the high sun dancing the hays
over the floor, as his beams stole in through the
jalousies of ray windows.
" Here I am in Virginia, the scene of so rauch
suffering and so rauch gallantry, — the Eldorado
of Raleigh, the refuge of the Cavalier, and the
birth-place of George Washington."
After walking through the little city, I next
betook rae to the bank of the gentle Apotoraax,
up which streara, we read. Captain Sraith was
first conveyed by his captors, and close by high-
water mark was he landed, preparatory to his
being burned pour amuser le roi.
The tide flows just above the town; and to
this spot I strolled, and sat me down where the
velvet sward rests on the stream. " And to this
very spot, perchance," said I, " did the canoes
of the warriors of Powhatan bring their most

A RHAPSODY. 83
dreaded, and, consequently, best esteemed ene
my, to die the death of a thrice-honoured Brave,
or, in terras raore homely, to be put to as much
torture as the utraost of savage ingenuity could
devise ; and this prolonged as far as the nature
of the captive might endure."

A RHAPSODY.

" And as I sat, the birdis barkening thus,
Methought that I herd voicis suddainly." Chaucer.
Here, closing my eyes on the sloops, lighters,
and schooners lying at no great distance, and
barring ray ears against the cries of busy car-
raen and wharfingers, and the clanging of steara-
engines, I calraly set about surveying in my
mind's eye the group which ready imagination
conjured up in colours, if not as true, at least as
glowing, as the by-gone reality.
About rose the forest-crowned slopes, '—for
this is a region of hill and dell>— with small
green belts of meadow drawn between : along
the river glided, with an arrowJike track, the
light canoes, when, as they touch this sylvan
harbour, the until now well-Suppressed joy {>f
G 2

84 A RHAPSODY.
victory bursts , out in exulting shouts and yells
wildly terrific; — the solitude is awakened, the
slumbering villages are roused, and the well-
known cry of Indian triumph comes back from
every teeming hill ; whilst the roused deer
springs trembling, from his covert, and the fierce
panther crouching seeks his gloomiest lair.
The adventurous captain, to whom peril was as
a household word, and fear a term unknown, is
now unbound, and led on shore, walking with a
free step araong his captors and with a cheek
unblanched, casting proud scornful looks upon
forms and faces which might have scared the
devil; for the roused Indian — cowed as is his
present nature by a hard-bought conviction of
his inferiority — is yet a fearful object to behold
when decked in paint and plume and all his hor
ribly fantastic war array.
The next scene presented the asserabled
council and the prolonged debate ; the warriors'
detail of their long secret marches, continued
hunger, and anxious ambush, until the raoment
arrived of the Pale-face's security, and the
Indan war-whoop, surprise, and triuraph. The
continued raassacre is next detailed ; ending with
the settleraent being left a reeking charnel-

A RHAPSODY, 85
house, and its best champion led captive to
crown the triumph with his death, the last and
proudest sacrifice to Indian vengeance.
The last change was to the ready stake, near
which stood the unshaken captive and the eager
warriors, encircled by an admiring crowd — and
woraan, too, was there, lovely woman ! whose
angel heart no custom, however barbarous and
time-honoured, can wholly harden against that
tender sympathy which forras at once her highest
pleasure and her most dangerous snare.
Amongst the eager crowd stood one admiring,
and pitying whilst admiring, till nature, stronger
than the ties of country and of custon\, spurning
their control, armed with irresistible persuasion
the Indian maiden's tongue, and touched a new
chord in the stern breast of her sire and king ; at
once giving to the hopeless captive life and free
dom, and winning for the name of Pocahontas
the immortality of a nation's gratitude : and
never, surely, did nature show more beautiful
than when it thus rose superior to the force of
habit long confirraed ; nor ever did raercy achieve
a prouder triumph than when, animating woman's
voice, it reprieved from the fire of the Indian
warrior a captive so feared and so honoured.

86 PETERSBURG, VIRGINIA.
I had, in this place, the pleasure of passing an
evening with a descendant of this princess, ren
dered more faraous by her corapassionate nature
than though her father had worn the diadera ofthe
Caesars. This is the third feraale I have encoun
tered in society clairaing the like honourable de
scent ; they have each been distinguishable both
in physiognoray and raanner ; right gentle ladies
all, as ever sprung from royal lineage, savage
or civilized : one of them, lately married to a
northern gentleman, possesses in a reraarkable
degree the traits of Indian blood and beauty,
with much simplicity and grace of manner, and
a freshness and warmth of feeling as delightful
as it is natural and original.

87

IMPRESSIONS OF PETERSBURG.  THE DESERTED
CHURCH.
Upon a steep hill, situated about half a raile
from the hotel, and bearing from it about south
east, stand the ruins of a well-built church, sur
rounded by a large grave-yard, thickly tenanted
by the once citizens of Petersburg : numerous
tombs, of a respectable and, indeed, venerable
appearance, contribute to invest the spot with
quite an Old-country character; and, viewed
from the high stone wall which surrounds it, the
setting sun is glorious.
To this place my first visit was one of mere
chance, but each evening after saw me at the
same calra hour taking my walk amongst the
tombs. I discovered that by far the greatest
number of these decent dwellings of the dead
were inscribed to Europeans, chiefly frora Ire
land and Scotland : very few were dated past
the raiddle age of life, the majority were indeed
young men, — enterprising adventurers, who had
wandered hither to seek fortune, and had found

88 THE DESERTED CHURCH.
a grave, the consummation of all wants and
desires. Upon many of these grave-stones were dis
played evidences of the lingering pride of gentle
birth ; recollections which, suppressed, or per
haps forgotten in the land of equality during
life, seeraed to have survived the grave, stronger
than death. Here were set forth in goodly cut
ting the coat armour, crest, and raotto of an
old Scots or Irish house, from which the junior
branches had probably received no other inhe
ritance save this claim to gentillesse, with liberty
to bear it to sorae distant soil.
How favoured was the French gentleraan of
whora we read, who, resigning his sword, sailed
in search of gain, and was perraitted to return
and reclaira it before time had rusted its bright
blade! How raany young hearts, that, quitting
home, have beat high with the prospect of an
equally happy return, have been doomed to waste
and wither in all the raisery of hope deferred,
which maketh the heart sick indeed, until care
and climate closed the protracted weary strug
gle, and the fortune-seeker was laid to moulder
in some stranger grave.
I trust that, amidst the changes each day

THE DESERTED CHURGH. 89
brings forth here, this ruined church will be left
unprofaned, and that the tenants who sleep
within its little inclosure may. be left undisturbed.
And I would further counsel any gentle traveller
who rests for a sunset in Petersburg, to walk to
this church, and contemplate its goiUg-down
from off the lofty stile leading over the western
wall ofthe grave-yard: and when he shall behold
the forest vale below changed^ — as I have more
than once beheld it — into a lake of living gold,
and over this shall watch the shadows of even
ing steal till the last bright fringe is withdrawn,
and the brown forest again is seen to cover all the
land — when, I say, this has been witnessed, the
stranger (if a woman, certainly) will hardly fail
to thank me for this discovery ; for such I do
verily consider it to be, as much as was Colon's
flrst lighting on this huge sliver of our, nether
world. I visited this little city at a period when cho
lera was raaking frightful ravages on every side,
and a consequent depression was to be expected
araongst the coramunity, I was nevertheless
greatly pleased with the situation of the place,
and with the air of business that appeared to
animate its citizens despite the frightful disease

90 PETERSBURG.
by which they were assailed ; and indeed, so far
as a sojourner of five days may be perraitted to
express an opinion, I should say that the evi
dences of the city's prosperity and growing pro
spects were many and cheering.
I in this place and in the neighbourhood saw
a good deal of slavery, and heard rauch raore :
the victiras themselves (so called) seem here a
raerry, light-hearted, and lightly-worked race,
and I was a good deal surprised to find that in
raany instances their possessors were looked upon
as the real sufferers.
Some of these, it is certain, are not to be en
vied this description of property, for they are
often compelled to keep many active mouths for
one useful hand : yet here are numbers of such
persons who do not like to sell these household
knaves, familiar as they have been from the cra
dle to the day of inheritance, and raixed up
with every recollection of horae and its inraates,
although they would gladly renounce the pre
sent possession to be assured against all after
clairas. Nov. 5fA.— Quitted Petersburg on a delight
ful raorning, and as far as Norfolk made a quick
trip ; but, shortly after leaving this place, we

JOURNAL. 91
encountered a very heavy gale of wind that en
dured all night, and compelled us next evening
to put into Annapolis, the capital of Maryland,
for a fresh supply of fuel : that night, the gale
moderating, we reached Baltimore about four
teen hours later than was anticipated.
7th. — Took the steamer for Philadelphia, where
I rested for a day ; and thence on to New York,
which I learn is exceedingly gay, — a circum
stance I do not regret to hear, as I am about to
sojourn here for a couple of weeks previous to
my departure for the South.
This I discover to be the coraraenceraent of
the New York gay season ; and here is, at pre
sent, no lack of amusement, — two theatres, an
Italian Opera, various public assemblies, be
sides the ordinary resources of balls and family
parties : of these there are three or four taking
place every week ; and I do not think the New-
Yorkers are ever seen to better advantage than
in the exercise and enjoyment of the lavish
hospitality iisually dispensed on these occasions.
Here is no fobbing you off with a meagre ac
count of jellies and a cup of lemonade : you find,
on the contrary, without fail, a sensible supper,
abounding with substantial for the hungry as

92 JOURNAL.
well as trifles for the sentimental; the best
wines of the cellar are paraded in abundance,
together with a punch such as I never elsewhere
reraeraber to have encountered. Now and then,
a little set would get drawn together at these
suppers, which it was no easy matter to dis
perse. Nov. 22nd. — Embarked for Charleston, South
Carolina, on board the William Gibbons, steamer.
We had a series of hard blows until the even
ing of the 24th, when, getting to the south
ward of Cape Hatteras, the weather gradually
moderated, and, early in the morning of the
25th, we were landed in Charleston ; but so ex
cessive was the cold, that I conceived it possible
the captain had made a mistake, and that we
were at sorae Charleston, in Greenland, or Icy
Cape. The weather either was, or appeared to
be, much colder than in New York when we
departed.

93

CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA.
Went to a hotel kept by a coloured family,
naraed Jones, and was appointed to comfortable
summer-quarters in an outbuilding, where I re
ceived an immediate call from Mr. R. R  d,
a cousin of my friend, W. R  d, of New York ;
and with this gentleman I dined at an excellent
boarding-house where there were three or four
excellent Frenchraen resident. Here I spent
a pleasant evening, despite the severe cold.
2Sth. — After two days of weather for the
severity of which no people can be worse pro
vided, we are relieved by as lovely a day as
can well be iraagined ; the thermometer is at
77 degrees, the breeze bland, the atmosphere
of singular purity.
On this day I visited the theatre, a barn ;
the building originally erected for this purpose
being changed into a school of anatomy: so
cutting up is still the order of the day ; only
the practice is no longer conflned to the poets,
but extended to subjects generally. After ar-

94 CHARLESTON.
ranging with my raanager, I took a ride, raak
ing a rapid survey of the town and its irarae
diate vicinity.
Vegetation still appears in progress ; the orange
trees are flourishing, the grass looking green,
and only the forest appears clad in the sober
brown of winter.
At this season Charleston is dull to a proverb;
raost of the planters, with their families, being
in the country, and the rest preparing to follow ;
the city is, therefore, nearly abandoned to the
cotton-shippers ; and so it will reraain until
the raonth of February, when the race-meeting
draws the whole State together ; and, for a
period of four or five weeks, few places, as I
learn, can be more lively or more sociable.
After this date, the country families once more
return to their plantations, where they can re
main with safety until about the second week
in April : after which date the choice between
country and city may be suraraed up in the words
of Shakspeare, to "go and live, or stay and
die ;" since to stay is assuredly to die, after once
the raalaria is fairly in raovement. Formerly,
the winter campaign used to be prolonged until
the middle of June ; but of late years the tirae

CHARLESTON. 95
has been, from sorae cause or other, gradually
abridged by common consent, until now the 15th
of April is considered the last day of security.
The forest rides leading on either hand from
the raain road to the Cooper and Ashley rivers
by which the sandy neck the city occupies is
flanked, are, though flat, very delightful. Plants
and flowers of rare beauty and in great variety
abound here ; the wild vine and other climbing
plants are drawn from tree to tree ; and the live-
oak, sycamore, hickory, with, the loftiest pines,
altogether form avenues down which the eyes of
a stranger wander with delight, and in which on
these delicious calm days it is a joy to linger.
My rides were sometimes solitary ; and, it was
on these occasions I most enjoyed these forest
paths, now as healthful as beautiful ; yet, let only
a few months pass away, and to sleep one night
within their shade would be death as certain as
though it were spent beneath the boughs ofthe
poisonous Upas.
I could hardly conceive the possibility of such
a baneful change, as, on a bright day of Decera
ber, I sauntered carelessly along, watching the
sun dancing in long lines of light over the
smooth water, and an atmosphere before me

96 CHARLESTON.
glowing, as though a veil of gold tissue had
been drawn- above the forest. Yet so it is ;
the overseers alone remain upon the plantation
after sunset, and amongst these the nuraerous
deaths, as well as the cadaverous hue of the sur
vivors, afford unquestionable testiraony of the
peril incurred by such a residence.
To the negro alone this air appears congenial,
as the lively look of the chubby little imps that
fill every cabin fully indicates. It is impossible
not to be struck by the contrast between the
looks of these children of the sun and the dege
nerate offsets of northern raen ; I have often
observed with feelings of sorrow the sickly aspect
of the children of some road-side store-keeper, or
publican ofthe white race, as they sit languidly
before their parents' door, with sallow parch
ment skins and lack-lustre eyes, the very em
blems of malaria, possessing neither the strength
nor the desire to follow those active sports natu
ral and in fact necessary, at their age : whilst,
sporting about or near them, might be observed
the offspring of their slaves ; the elder ones, with
hardly any covering, pursuing each other, shout
ing and grinning frora ear to ear ; the youngsters,
quite naked perhaps, rolling on the kitchen floor.

CHARLESTON. 97
or creeping about in the dust like so raany black
beetles, almost as broad as long. Despite their
degraded condition, I have at such times been
tempted to exclaim, " Surely this must here be
the most enviable lot ! "
This picture, however, must not be applied to
the wealthy portion of the landed proprietors,
who either migrate north with each season, or
else seek the shelter of the dry sandy soil of the
Pine-barrens, and on their heights breathe health
and life ; whilst below and around, at no great
distance, stalk disease and death.
Araongst this class, on the contrary, I have
often been surprised to find children whose
elastic forms and ruddy complexions would have
been noticeable even in the health-giving air of
Britain ; and indeed, taken as a whole, I should
say that the population of Charleston City, the
capital of this deadly country, wears as fresh a
look, and presents as many hale, hearty old per
sons, as any of the northern cities of this conti
nent. I was, perchance, the more struck with this
fact frora having expected the very reverse.
An air of greater antiquity prevails through
out this city than raay be discovered in any other
I have visited in the States ; I should conceive
VOL. IT. H

98 CHARLESTON.
it to be just in the condition the English army
left it ; I did not see a large house that appear
ed of newer date ; and the churches, guard-house,
&c. raust be the same.
This population apparently has slept whilst
their persevering brethren of the North, to use
one of their familiar sayings, have " continu
ally gone ahead" with an energy of purpose
admirable as irresistible. This difference can, I
fancy, be accounted for in two ways : first,
much may be fairly set down to climate, which
limits the business months here to about six ;
next, the revolution found here a sort of aris
tocratic association of wealthy proprietors, the
produce of whose estates furnished them with
ample m,eans, but whose business habits were
limited to periodical settlements with their
factors or brokers. The revolution, and the
changes consequent upon it, awoke the spirit
and incited the hope of every man to whom the
absence of inherited wealth supplied an impetus
to labour ; and the populated portions of these
States became as a hive thronged with an active,
money-seeking swarm, by which the idle and the
inert were thrust aside before they became awake
to their changed condition, or heard a murmur

CHARLESTON. 99
of the tide whose waves were encircling them
about on every side.
The law of primogeniture having ceased to
exist, estates became subject to division and sub
division, until the growing families of the original
proprietors found themselves unable to continue
planters with any prospect of advantage. In
such cases the property was sold, and the pro
ceeds divided according to law, or in confor
mity to the will of the testator, and so passed
into strange hands ; whilst with straitened means
the members of the family of the once wealthy
planter removed to some city, and here clung to
their original habits and prejudices ; nor, except
in a few instances, ever turned their thoughts
to trade, at once the source and secret of their
changed condition ; and into the hands of whose
active agents, in fact, had passed the home and
the inheritance of their fathers.
Comparatively few of the old families now re
main who are wealthy ; but happily these have
mostly become aware of the effects certain to fol
low the existing state of society and laws, as well
as of the necessity of providing their children
with the means of warding off their worst conse
quences. Now, therefore, the sons of the best
H 2

100 CHARLESTON.
men of the South are wisely placed in counting-
houses in the great trading cities; or, however
good their prospects may be, are bred up to some
useful calling, which in this country will, if pur
sued with industry, ensure decent competence if
not always wealth.
The condition of numbers of men, among those
of the South who have never been trained to this
laudable course, is at this day one that excites
great coramiseration. How many fine intelligent-
looking young fellows may be observed loung
ing about in the most hopeless idleness, easily
to be distinguished for the sons of gentlemen,
wearing in a half slovenly way, but with a flashy
air, expensive clothes and ill-assorted articles of
finery, without possessing either means or energy
to cultivate those manly dissipations which in
Some sort redeem the idleness of our European
youth, and at certain seasons withdraw them from
mere pursuits of sensuality ; making that at least
graceful, if not useful to the community, which
here becomes truly hideous, as the reckless air
and wasted features of most of these unfortu
nate hereditary idlers sufficiently attest.
I do not anywhere know a class more to be
pitied in a country, wherein the idle man finds

CHARLESTON. 101
neither sympathies, pursuits, nor associates, frora
which he can derive emulation, improvement, or
even amusement worthy a rational being ; it
is, let me add, an exceedingly small class, and of
necessity raust, I conceive, decrease rapidly ; at
present its members ought to be regarded by
parents as moral landmarks, living to warn the
wise and worthy frora that course on which their
hopes have foundered.
The young ladies appear possessed of the sarae
naive, simple, yet perfectly easy raanners which
characterise their countryworaen of the North,
where indeed they are principally educated and
instructed in all those graceful accomplishments
which embellish and refine our life. It appears
upon a first view strange that, superior as they
are, they do not exercise a greater influence over
the youth ofthe other sex; but this raay be
ascribed to the fact, that they are brought out
before either their judgment or knowledge of the
world are sufficiently matured to raake thera aware
of the existence of certain abuses, or of their own
power of reforming them. Then again, marrying
very young, they commonly quit society, in a great
measure, at the moraent the influence of their
example raight be of the greatest service to it.

102 CHARLESTON.

A TOTAL ECLIPSE OF THE SUN.
Nov. soth. — Just entered my roora, after hav
ing been for the last hour engaged waiting for,
and watching the progress of, one of those star
tling phenoraena which in the earlier ages were
wont to be hailed as especial raanifestations of
the Creator's anger,— -whose influence has been
known to stay the onset of engaging hosts,
raaking raen deaf to the sound of the trumpet,
dnd dead to the yet raore stirring influence of
their own furious passions, when standing armed
before the array of their enemies, — which have
been known to scare the robber from his spoil,
and join in renewed araity the hands of long
hating brothers.
And even at this day, when natural causes
have been assigned for the appearance of this
wonder, and science has learned to anticipate
the rainute and the effect of its coraing, still,
what power does it exercise over the imagination
of the mass ! Few rainds can watch the progress
of such an event, natural though it be, untouched
by awe, unelevated to that Being who is the cause

CHARLESTON. lOS
of all ; the hearts of the siraple and the pro
found, of the sinner and of the saint, alike own
the influence of the hour, and render up na
ture's involuntary homage to nature's God.
It had been already calculated that at Charles
ton and in its immediate vicinity this eclipse would
be total ; and, consequently, here were drawn
together, from different points, several scientific
men, astronomers and others, for the purpose
of observing its progress.
Nothing could have chanced more happily
for their object than the present state ofthe at
mosphere. At meridian the sky was cloudless ;
the page of heaven lay open, fair, to all who
could read therein : at the same time the ther
mometer stood at 75 degrees in the sha"de ; but
from this hour until two p.m., when .the ob
scuration was coraplete, continued gradually to
fall, reraaining stationary at 50 degrees.
As the great lurainary became slowly covered,
the shadows kept deepening, until, at last, day
was exchanged for the sober effect of moonlight :
thin filmy clouds then becarae observable, slow
ly sailing beneath the diminished orb ; one by
one the stars came twinkling forth; the house
hold poultry gathered uneasily together in the

104 CHARLESTON.
yard, and retired to their roosting-places ; the
hurrying tread of frequent passers gradually
ceased ; the buzz of the thousands of eager
watchers died away ; the voice of man was si
lent, or heard but in whispers, and the pro
foundest silence reigned throughout the city ;
till, at the moment when the interposition
was coraplete, the bells of the different churches
tolled out, adding a thrilling soleranity to the
scene. At this point of the eclipse the effect was
grand beyond description : a well-defined, nar
row circle, of the most brilliant crimson co
lour, surrounded for a few moraents the dark
ened orb, which then seemed to diverge into
a glorious halo composed of equal rays : but
only for a rainute was this clearly definable ;
the rays quickly faded from the side of the lumi
nary once raore given to view ; and again a
soft daylight, like the gradual spreading of a
fine dawn, chased away the night shadows that
had thus prematurely usurped day's fair do
minion. From every quarter was now heard the cheerful
crowing of the " early . cock ;" the fowls came
briskly forth, pluming themselves in the re-

CHARLESTON. 105
covered sunshine ; the tramp of nuraerous pass
ers-by was again echoing frora the street ; and
again the cheerful buzz of human voices filled
the air.
This was the first tirae I had ever witnessed
a total eclipse ; and I confess I fully shared the
general interest with which all about me appear
ed inspired. Upon the covered gallery fronting
the south, the inmates of the hotel were all
assembled ; whilst, in the yard below, were con
gregated the servants and household slaves of
the family, with upturned anxious faces, now
watching the progress of the phenomenon, and
now casting their eyes upon the group of white
men, to gather from their looks the effect likely
to follow this hiding of the sun, in whose pre
sence the negro alone may be said to live.
Although the recovered luminary shone bright
as before its obscuration, it was with diminished
power, for it continued chilly during the rest
of the day and night ; nor was it before noon
on the 1st of December that the mercury reco
vered frora its sudden depression.
Dec. Sth. — The President's raessage on the
subject of the indemnity due from France to
America was received in this city, where it ap-

106 CHARLESTON.
pears to produce a startling effect : I should
say, ten voices out of every eleven I have heard
speak on the subject, deprecate any idea of a
rupture with France. The merchants and tra
vellers of that nation, of whom there are num
bers here, appear somewhat indignant at the
tone assumed by the chief of the government,
which they affirm to be insulting to the nation,
with which a Frenchman, in all places, what
ever raay be his political sentiments or present
condition, never fails corapletely to identify him
self. This respect for France is a gallant sen
timent of theirs, and shows particularly well
when they are far from the country whose honour
they assert, standing a few amongst raany.
Dec. 9th. — I engaged a pilot-boat to run
down the coast south as far as Savannah, which,
although sorae hundred miles out of my line,
I had set down as a place to be seen. My
Charleston managers, two worthy industrious
soulSj hearing of ray route, begged of rae to per
mit them to take the pilot-boat off my hands
for the transport of their company, on condition
that I would halt in Savannah for three or four
representations. To this I was readily moved
by their strongly-expressed desire, and gave up

JOURNAL. 107
my little schooner, becoming a passenger where
I had looked to reign sole proprietor ; the whole
thing was arranged in the course of the day.
The wind continued steadily about north-east
and by the evening, the freight, coraposed of
the paraphernalia, was shipped and stowed ;
the corapany asserabled ; and, after sundry hold-
ings-on for sorae music-book forgotten in the
orchestra, or sorae actor left at his lodging,
we in about one hour after the tirae fixed by
the pilot for the latest minute of tide, slipped
the hawsers of the sraart little Washington,
and fell off into the stream of ebb.
When we got on the bar, it was almost low-
Water : the schooner drew eight feet abaft, and
we had just nine feet soundings over the bank ;
we cleared all, however, after a rainute of sorae
anxiety, owing to there being a heavy north
erly swell setting in, which appeared each mo
ment td increase.
Once over the bar, we got nearly before the •
wind with a staggering breeze, and went along
right merrily. Our representative of all 'the
Juliets and Julias had a pretty voice ; the Kem
ble of the company, a fine, tall, good-tempered
fellow. Sang duets and trios well enough for a

108 JOURNAL.
tragedian ; a chorus was easily mustered out of
the remaining members of the corps who con
tinued fit for duty; and we roused old Ocean
with " When the wind blows," until he became
too obstreperous in his emulation, and fairly
drowned our melody.
The wind did blow, at last, in such a sort as
to disperse our chorus ; the schooner was about
forty tons measurement, sharp as a wedge be
low, and not over three feet and a half between
decks ; the cabin was about the sarae square
raeasureraent, with two little berths,, into which
we stowed the ladies, the raanagers and the
principals occupying the remaining space ; in the
hold, over the ballast, the rest of the corapany
stowed theraselves away.
To penetrate either of these close quarters I
found utterly irapossible : all were ill save the
stout tragedian ; comedy, farce, and opera, ballet
and band, the manager, his subjects and his pro
perties, were alike disorganized and overwhelmed.
I resolved therefore on keeping the deck as I best
could, by the help of a stout dread-nought, a
pocket-full of cigars, and a raild infusion of old
cognac, provided for me by a considerate friend.
Within two hours, the wind had gradually

JOURNAL. 109
increased until it blew a gale : the foresail was
taken in, the mainsail close-reefed, and the saucy
boat flew along before it like a gull, the fol
lowing seas just kissing the edge of her taffrail,
as she slipped away before them.
Our pilot, the owner of the craft, was a care
ful and steady old Bristol-man, but somewhat
nervous and timid : his regular crew consisted
of two fine white boys, apprentices, and a cou
ple of stout slaves : we had, in addition, taken on
board an old apprentice of the pilot's, who as
we started had volunteered to accompany his
once master. This was a droll subject, a re
gular long-sided dare-devil of a South Caroli
nian : he was full three sheets in the wind when
we sailed, and managed to keep the steam up
by the contributions liberally proffered during
our short season of festivity.
As the gale freshened this fellow showed out ;
when a sail was to be handed or a reef taken in,
he was a crew in hiraself; one ofthe coolest and
smartest fellows I ever met, but soraewhat pro
fane in his humour, and rather hard upon the
nerves of the chief : few of his sayings will bear
repetition ; but the exaggeration of his figures
of speech, the wild fantastic spirit of reckless

110 JOURNAL,
humour by which he was governed, I shall not
lose sight of; during the night I supplied hira
with cigars, and with his oddness wore away the
time. One little bit of dialogue will describe
this wild man ofthe water better than any words
of mine. We had already taken in two reefs
when the pilot gave directions " Stand by to
lower away the peak."
" Ay, ay," sang out his aide, as he sprang
nimbly to the foot of the raast ; adding, " but
what the devil are you going to do now, stran
ger ?"
" Bear a hand !" cried the senior, " take in
another reef!"
" What ! you're afear'd little Wash-the-water
goes through it too fast, are you, old raan 1"
" To be sure : I don't want to get off the bar
before day-light."
" Don't you ? Why then you raust tie her fast
to a sturap, my friend; for if you let her go
ahead, she 11 make the light long afore you can
see your way across the bar, between the white
water." " The wind between now and then may slack
a little," urged the senior, looking back over
the seas now rolling very high, as though he
wished the time was come.

JOURNAL. Ill
" Well, that 's a cur'ous kind o' guess you've
made, any way, old stranger," laughed his tor
mentor, clapping his foot against the corapanion,
and taking the pull of a giant on the reef-tackle
as he spoke, " If you ever know'd where to look
for the fag-ind of a north-easter at this tirae o'
year, it 's more nor you ever larn'd rae to do, and
that I do say wasn't doin' your honest duty by
me. I 'd lay a pistreen this breeze would last the
Washy, to the south'ard o' the Tortugas, and
well you know it too."
" Well, suppose it would> I can't help it — what
would you do, Matthew ? It blows like thunder :
I can't tell how fast she's going, — I don't want
to over-shoot the light, and then have to thrash
back through such a smother of a sea."
" Well, now I see what you're at ; and it 's all
right, I guess," observed Matthew, with affected
deference of tone, " I know the varmint's pretty
slick, but I never should ha' thought of her crawl
ing over ninety railes in four hours :" — it was at
this tirae about raidnight, " You ask rae what
I'd do ; why now I'll tell you, if I was you, I'd say.
Mat, here take the stick, -— it wouldn't be the
first time, — and I 'd crawl out o' that hole and
shake myself; and then I'd ask this gentleman
for a cigar and a mouthful of liquor, and then

112 JOURNAL,
I'd clap a bit o' the square mainsail on her,
and lift the sloppy little slut out of it a yard or
two ; that 's what I 'd do : and now what have
you to say agin it, he ?"
" You have a square mainsail in the craft, I
suppose?" here inquired I, by way of taking Mat
thew off the old man a little.
" Why, I don't know ; maybe the old raan
has had it cut up to make trousers : but there
used to be one when I was in her, and such an
omni-po-tent tearer, — it had a hoist to heaven, it
sheeted home to h — 11, outspread the eternal uni
verse, and would ha' dragged a frigate seventeen
knots through a sea o' treacle, by the living jin
go ! Why, I 've seen it afore now raise the leetle
hooker clean out o' water, and tail off, with her
hanging on, like the boat to a balloon."
With the least possible sail we continued to
slip along at a slapping rate, and long before
daylight made the light at the entrance of the
Savannah river : had our pilots known this bar
as familiarly as they did that of Charleston, we
might have run in ; as it was, we hove-to in a
very heavy sea for upwards of two hours, and the
Washington behaved under these circumstances to
admiration ; she lay-to like a sea-bird, now float-

JOURNAL. 113
ing buoyant upon the foamy crest of the great
seas, then sliding down their sides into the
trough where they would threaten to enclose
her. The senior pilot never quitted the little
square hole sunk over the run, wherein he
stood to steer, although sometimes, when she
rolled to windward and made a dip, the green
seas would raake a rush over her quarter, and
sweep the deck a foot deep ; luckily there was
nothing to hold the water ; but for fourteen
hours the old man's hand never left the tiller.
Soon after daylight we once more filled-away,
and brought the little jewel of a boat snugly by-
the-wind, hauling in for the bar, although not
without some ugly doubts ; for Matthew and
the old man could not agree, and the sea all
along in-shore looked plaguy white and ugly as
we neared the low land : however, in we flew,
having breakers on either hand, over near to
be pleasant, and in a few minutes, entering the
river close by the wreck of a large brig, were in
comparative security.
Our counsel was even now divided about the
true channel, until one of the boys, who had made
a couple of trading trips up to the city, took it
VOL. II. I

114 JOURNAL.
upon his own responsibility to read the buoys and
landmarks as far as he knew them. Keeping
the lead constantly going, we quietly jogged up
the river with a stiff breeze ; the country bleak
and bare, a region of half-redeemed swamp
and lagoon : being in sraooth water, our party
all turned out ; stores were rummaged, and a
good breakfast provided upon the deck of the
boat so recently swept by the green seas : the
past was forgotten, the sun shone out, and again
the glee and merry song floated through the air
of morning.
Matthew had by this become quite sober, and
took his spell at the helm ; admitting, evidently
to his senior's satisfaction, that it certainly was
" a real nuUifler of a breeze, enough to blow the
leetle Washy into pieces."
About six railes off the city, we got at last set
fast ; when, growing impatient of such close con
finement, I requested the captain to set me on
shore. The thing was voted impracticable ; but
I decided to raake the atterapt, and was accord
ingly rowed to the right bank of the river, when
I took to the swarap, hungry and savage enough
to have eaten any alligator fool-hardy enough to
assail rae. After a hard scramble, together with

JOURNAL. 115
two or three plunges waist deep, I escaped suffo
cation, and gained one of the banks dividing and
draining these vast fields : following this, unim
peded by other diflBculty, I reached, after half an
hour's raarch, the high land ; and, attracted by
the sounds of merriment, mounted the first bluff,
where I found a large barn occupied by a couple
of score laughing, noisy negroes eraployed thrash
ing out the crop : frora one of these I received
directions how to reach Savannah, whose spires
were clearly to be seen.
At the end of about five railes, I found my
self an exceeding dirty gentleman entering upon
the long well-shaded mall which protects the
river-front of the city, I was, by this, tolerably
tired of my walk ; for the light sandy soil was
ankle-deep, and the sun broiling. After passing
one block or range of counting-houses, I gladly
read on the first of the next range the name of
a friend from whom I felt certain of welcome.
A capital dinner, and a glass of the finest
Madeira in the States, raade light of past labour ;
and during the evening I was glad to learn that
the Washington had arrived with her freight all
safe and well. My friend Matthew now informed
rae he had given the boys in the boat directionsi2

116 JOURNAL,
to wait for rae half an hour, which they did, fully
anticipating that I should never clear the cane-
brake and swarap lying between the river and the
fields ; and, in sooth, it required sorae perse
verance.

117

SAVANNAH.
With this little city I was exceedingly pleased.
The weather was remarkably mild, the sun shone
brightly; and I took much pleasure in wandering
along the quiet sandy streets, flanked by double
rows of the Pride-of-India tree.
Except the range of buildings immediately
facing the river, the dwellings are nearly all
detached ; each surrounded by its own oflfices,
many by a garden filled with orange and other
evergreens : they are mostly built on the true
Southern plan, of two stories, with a broad gal
lery running entirely round ; being of wood and
painted white, with bright green jhlousies, they
give to the streets a gay and lively look, which
is exceedingly cheerful and attractive.
Here are, however, several very ambitious-
looking dwellings, built by a European architect
for wealthy raerchants during the palmy days
of trade ; these are of stone or some composi-

118 SAVANNAH.
tion, showily designed, and very large, but ill-
adapted, I should imagine, for summer residences
in this climate. They are raostly deserted, or let
for boarding-houses, and have that decayed look
which is so raelancholy, and which nowhere
arrives sooner than in this climate.
Here is a very well designed and well-built
theatre, but, like the houses I speak of, a good
deal the worse in consequence of neglect : the
materials and design were, I understood, all im
ported from England, at a prodigious cost when
the sraallness of the population is considered ;
but it is now, I fancy, rarely occupied.
On this occasion I had the pleasure of seeing
it well filled for the four nights I acted, and had
to regret ray tirae was of necessity so liraited,
since my audience was as merry and intelligent
as heart could wish.
My days were passed at the hospitable house
of Mr. G  n, where I encountered many plea
sant people ; and was attended by the sleekest,
merriest set of negroes imaginable, raost of whom
had grown old or were born in their master's
house : his own good-humoured, active benevo
lence of spirit was reflected in the faces of his
servants.

SAVANNAH RIVER. 119
The trade of this port was at one period great;
it offered at this time a cheerful prospect of well-
lined quays, and I was glad to learn that the
prospects of the coraraunity were again brighten
ing ; indeed, the high prices of produce this year
are infusing additional life and spirit into the
whole Southern community: the speculators in
cotton are ardent, and the prices continually on
the rise.
On the 15th, left this in a steamer called
the George Washington, to proceed up the Sa
vannah river to Augusta; a distance, by this
route, of rather raore than two hundred railes.
I got on board late at night, went irame
diately to bed, and, on coming on deck the next
morning, found myself in the bosom of a dense
forest, the trees growing as it were out of the
very water, and all of them, with the exception of
the glooray cypress, still thickly covered with
their gay autumnal foliage: numbers ofthe willow
tribe were as fresh and green as in early spring
time, at which season a sail up this river must be
overpoweringly fragrant: even now, although
offering little change of character for two hun
dred miles, it was not wholly devoid of interest ;
for it is constantly upon the wind, the longest

120 SAVANNAH RlVER.
reach limiting your view to a few hundred
yards. Our boat was sraall and very deeply laden,
making hardly four miles an hour ; but she had
few passengers, was capitally provisioned, and
possessed an indefatigable and most obliging
coraraander, so that the tediura consequent upon
such a progress had at least no nuisance super
added to make it more irksorae.
Every few railes we brought up to take in
a fresh supply of fuel ; we were thus enabled
constantly to stretch our legs in the forest ; but
throughout the whole distance so exactly sirailar
were raost of these landings that a light-heart
ed countryraan of raine, whose corapany I was
lucky enough to have, constantly used, on stop
ping, to say,
" I 'd like to be sure we haven't gone back ;
and that this place is itself, and not the other."
We went ahead however, though but slowly ;
and after passing four nights and three days
upon this rainiature Mississippi, — for the cha
racteristics are exactly sirailar, even to the owls
and alligators, — we were safely landed at Au
gusta ; perhaps, the most enterprising and most
thriving community in Georgia.

AUGUSTA. 121
By Mr. G-  n's recommendation, I proceed
ed to the Planters' Hotel, kept by Judge Hales,
a kind raan and a worthy magistrate ; and found
that, in anticipation of my arrival, he had al
ready secured me the earliest chance for a va
cancy on the way-bill for Millidgeville.
Augusta consists of one very wide street, a
couple of railes in length, and coraposed of a
raixed description of building; many of the
houses and stores being of wood, and exceed
ingly humble in appearance ; others are built of
brick, large, handsome, and well fitted up, in
(emulation of those in the northern cities ; all,
however, exhibited evidences of active and suc
cessful trade.
This was the high season for the arrival here
of cotton frora the plantations in the interior,
whence it is forwarded by the railroad to
Charleston, or down the river to Savannah.
The streets were crowded with planters, and the
suburbs with waggons either erapty or laden ;
and these, together with their hardy drivers and
assistants, who camp in all weathers amidst the
forest, make a picture at once interesting in a
commercial point of view, and in itself singularly
striking.

122 AUGUSTA.
As in the sraallest Araerican towns, I here met
with an excellent bathing establishraent; and
found a hot bath, after being mewed up three
days on board the steamer, a most joyous luxury.
The Planters' Hotel afforded an excellent dinner
and a gopd bottle of sherry ; and in the evening
the mail-stage arrived, when to my great joy I was
informed ray place was safe, although there were
many expectants necessarily left to abide the next
stage. At this season of the year the current
setting South is enormous : every stage from the
North is laden ; and, once thrown out, a raan raay
have raany days to wait before he gets a chance
of proceeding.
19th. — At six P.M. quitted Augusta, with nine
other victiras, in a stage otherwise laden with
mail-bags and luggage. About an hour before
we started rain set in, and the weather-wise prog
nosticate that the fine season is now at an end
for this year. I certainly have no right to cora
plain, but could desire the rain raight yet be
postponed for a few days. The roads were frora
the start as bad as could be, and the heavy fall
was not likely to improve that part of our route
which was to come.
We passed in the course of this night several

JOURNAL. 123
camps of emigrants, on the move from the Caro
linas and Georgia : they managed to keep their
fires blazing in the forest, in spite of the falling
shower ; occasionally raight be seen a huge pine
crackling and burning throughout as it lay on
the ground, whilst, ranged to windward, stood
the waggons and huts of the campers.
The rich alluvial lands of Alabama, recently
belonging to the Indian reserves, and now on
sale by government or through land-speculators,
are attracting thousands of families from the
washed-out and impoverished soil of the older
Southern States ; and, during this and the pre
ceding season, the numbers moving along this
and the other great lines towards the South
west are incredible, when viewed in reference to
the amount of population given to the countries
whence the emigrants are chiefly derived.
At a season like the present, the sufferings of
these families raust be considerable. The cara
van usually consists of from two to four tilt wag
gons, long and low-roofed ; each laden, first with
the needful provisions and such household gear
as may be considered indispensable ; next, over
this portion of the freight is stowed the family of
the emigrant planter, his wife, and commonly a

1 24 JOURNAL.
round squad qf white-haired children, with their
attendants : on the march these vehicles are pre
ceded and surrounded by the field slaves, varying
in numbers from half a dozen to fifty or sixty,
according to the wealth of the proprietor ; a cou
ple of mounted travellers coraraonly coraplete the
cavalcade, which moves over these roads at the
rate of twelve or fifteen miles a day. At night,
or when the team gives out, or the waggons are
fairly stalled, or set fast, the party prepares to
camp : the raen cut down a tree for fire, and with
its branches make such rude huts as their time
and ingenuity raay best contrive ; the feraales
prepare the evening raeal, and perforra such
domestic duties as may be needful. On these
occasions I have frequently passed araongst or
halted by them, and have been surprised at the
air of content and good-humour coraraonly pre
vailing in their rude caraps, despite of the appa
rent discomfort and privation to which they were
exposed. Many of the negroes, however, I ara informed,
are exceedingly averse to a removal from the
sites on which they have been bred, and where
their connexions are formed : in these cases,
planters who are uncertain of the personal attach-

JOURNAL. 125
ment of their slaves, generally dispose of thera
amongst their neighbours : when they are really
attached to their owners, however, there is little
diflBculty experienced in their removal.
In raost of the parties I encountered, I should
say, judging fairly by their deportraent and loud
merriraent, despite the great fatigue and constant
exposure, the affair was taken in a sort of holiday
spirit, no way warranted by their half-naked rai
serable appearance.
Thus they crawl onward frora day to day, for
weeks or raonths, until they have reached that
portion of the forest, or cane-brake, fixed upon
for the plantation : and here the enterprising
settler has to encounter new toil, and a long
series of privations, cheered however by the hope,
seldora a delusive one, of ultimate wealth accu
mulating to the survivors of the party ; for, un
happily, health is the sacrifice, I believe, gene
rally paid for the possession of the fat soil lying
along these sluggish rivers.
Along the whole line of our route from Augusta
in Georgia to the banks of the Alabama, we
found the road covered by parties of this descrip
tion ; and, according to the opinions of well-in
formed residents, with whom I conversed on this

126 JOURNAL.
subject, not fewer than ten thousand farailies
have quitted the two Carolinas and Georgia
during the course of this season.
Amongst these families journeying to the land
of proraise, inspired by hopes for the future and
cheered by the presence of those on whora they
relied for their fulfilment, we now and then met
little parties of broken-men retracing their sad
steps toward the horaes they had consigned to
¦ strangers : of these, one faraily, which we encoun
tered caraping near the banks of a swollen river
whose bridge we were corapelled to repair before
we could cross it, excited deep coramiseration.
The establishment consisted of a single cover
ed waggon, a sraall open cart, and half-a-dozen
slaves, principally woraen : its conductress was a
widow, not exceeding thirty years of age, having
by her side five children, one an infant.
Within a year after the location of his family
on the banks of the Black-warrior, her husband,
we learned, had died ; and the widow was thus
far on her way back to Virginia, accompanied by
such of her household as remained to her ; this
was the 22nd of December, and there yet re
mained five hundred miles of her journey un
performed. I know my heart was sore as I con-

JOURNAL. 127
templated her forlorn condition, and thought
upon the toilsome way yet dividing her from the
changed home she sought.
Between Millidgeville and Macon the route
became all but impassable : at each mile we anti
cipated a stand-still ; the rain was incessant ; the
creeks were flooded, and the bridges in an in
describable condition. We were frequently com
pelled to alight and walk, being in momentary
expectation of an overturn: and so we journeyed
on, our nurabers reduced to six, in order that a
lighter vehicle might be adopted. The way in
which this drafting was effected was on principles
perfectly fair, and subraitted to without a mur
mur : at Sparta, the agent informed us that
only six passengers could be taken on ; and that,
unless we arranged otherwise, he should strike
off the last three naraes entered in the way-bill,
as being the juniors in this hard service : luckily
for rae, I had just the raagic three under ray
name, — a piece of good fortune that rescued
me from a sojourn at Sparta, which, with all due
deference to its venerable name, I could not con
template without a shudder.
Six hardier or better-humoured men, if I may
venture to include myself in the number, never

128 JOURNAL.
roughed it through Georgia in company. At one
pass, through a swarap lying a few railes north
of Macon, we were turned out, at a hut where
large pieces of light-wood, as the pitch-pine is
called, were procured for the party; frora this
point we were instructed to make a cut through
the forest, whilst the lightened coach followed
the road. We struck into the line pointed out,
guided by one of the party who had journeyed
this road before ; and six merrier men, having
less cause for mirth, might not have been found
within this fair state.
After floundering along for an hour or so, we
saw the torches of the stage, and heard the hal
loo of the driver : hence, without mischance, we
reached Macon before daylight ; and here one of
our corapany knocked up through cold and over-
weariness ; a vacant place was thus afforded for
the judge of the district-court, in whora we found
a well-informed and most intelligent corapanion.
NuUiflcation was the subject for the morning,
and rauch was advanced pro and con. ; its oppo
nents being two New York men who had been
my fellow-passengers from Augusta. On this
occasion, as I have always observed amongst
Southern men, the right of separation from the

JOURNAL. 129
Union was vehemently insisted upon, even whilst
the policy of such a movement was deprecated ;
the principle, in fact, of nullification was main
tained by those who were against the practice of
such an experiraent.
The condition of justice upon these wild fron
tiers was next freely canvassed, and was on all
hands adraitted to be weak and short-arraed
enough : very few, in truth, seem in criminal
cases to seek for or approve of its interference,
except in some so monstrously atrocious that no
sympathy can be felt for the crirainal ; and even
in such cases his flight, if he condescends to such
a movement, is a matter of small diflBculty.
Most of the raany murders committed are the
result of quarrels or personal rancour. Jealousy
of a favoured rival, a gambling or a political dis
pute ends in a defiance, mutual and deadly, the
ever-ready dirk affords present means ; or, if the
interposition ofthe bystanders prevents this, one
ofthe party shoots down the other on the road
or at his own door ; when, if the slain man has
friends, the feud is adopted by them, and the first
homicide is revenged by another, or several, as
raay be. These affrays are by convention termed
duels; and, in fact, as on our borders a century
VOL. II. K

130 JOURNAL.
back, each man rights with his own hand his
wrongs "wherever given," in street or forest,
in the court of justice or within the house, of
prayer. In the raean time, notwithstanding all this, the
frontiers flourish ; trade yearly increases ; and, as
well as I can learn, civilization and security also
slowly but steadily march onward ; but, from the
very nature of the country, it must be long be
fore the wild spirits congregated here can be
subjected to the wholesome rule of well- adminis
tered laws.
At Talboton we found six passengers, the
freight of the stage preceding us, which had
been upset in the swarap the night previous ; one
of them had a couple of ribs broken, and all
were badly bruised. One young man begged
to be taken on the seat of our coach, which was
readily perraitted, with cautions against his ven
turing on such an experiraent. The additional
mail-bags were also to be carried forward ; and
the largest were accordingly stowed into the
coach, in the space usually considered by pas
sengers as designed for their legs ; coraplaint,
however, was quite useless ; those who did not
like the conveyance being at full liberty to wait

JOURNAL. 131
on any part of the road they might select,
until one better adapted to comfort chanced
to come by.
We quitted this place, six men, with just
space enough left for us to crawl in, and we sat,
bent almost double, with our legs stretched out
before us. I consoled rayself by concluding that
we now had reached the extreraity of our incon
veniences ; but I knew mighty little about the
matter. It would have been impossible, for any
length of time, to have borne the position we
were now compressed into ; but luckily this was
not expected, since constant occasions were af
forded us of stretching our legs, and getting
cool under as heavy rain as the lover of a
shower-bath could desire.

K 2

132

COLUMBUS.
At the hour of two a. m. we reached the city
of Colurabus, on the Chattahoochee, the river
dividing Alabama from Georgia.
Here we halted for a day and a night ; and
this tirae I employed, in company with my two
New York fellow-travellers, in paying a visit to
the Choctaw tribe of Indians, who possess a
reserve lying west of the river.
We procured three stout nags, and early in
the raorning crossed the very fine bridge which
spans this rapid streara close to the falls. On
the Alabama side we found ourselves within a
wild-looking village, scattered through the edge
of the forest, bearing the unattractive name of
Sodom ; few of its denizens were yet stirring ;
they are composed chiefly of " minions o' the
moon," outlaws from the neighbouring States.
Gamblers, and other desperate men, here find
security frora their nurabers, and frora the vici-

COLUMBUS. 133
nity of a thinly inhabited Indian country, whose
people hold thera in terror, yet dare not refuse
thera a hiding-place. These bold outlaws, I
was inforraed, occasionally asserable to enjoy
an evening's frolic in Columbus, on which oc
casions they cross the dividing bridge in force,
all armed to the teeth : the warrants in the
hands of the U. S. Marshal are at such times
necessarily suspended, since to execute a cap
tion would require a muster greater than any
within his command. If unmolested, the party
usually proceed to the nearest hotel, drink deep
ly, make what purchases they require for the
ladies of their colony, pay promptly, and,
gathering the stragglers together, retire peace
ably into the territory, wherein their present
rule is by report absolute. The condition of
this near comraunity, and the crimes perpetrated
by its members, were alluded to within the town
with a raingled sentiraent of detestation and
fear, A short way within the forest we overtook a
man riding a rough pony, of whom I inquired
the best route to be pursued for falling in with
the Indian settleraents ; the raan immediately
volunteered to ride with us for a few hours ; add- .

134 COLUMBUS.
ing, that he saw we were strangers from the
North ; that he was " a Vermont man himself,
and had nothing particular to do just then."
This was a lucky rencontre : the volunteer
guide we thus secured appeared perfectly familiar
with every turn of the numberless narrow foot
paths leading frora one location to another ; and,
under his guidance, we visited several.
The condition of the raajority of these poor
people seemed wretched in the extreme : raost
of the families were living in wigwams, built of
bark or green boughs, of the frailest and least
comfortable construction ; not an article of fur
niture, except a kettle, was in the possession of
this class. A few, however, were here who had
erected log-houses, cleared a little land, and
were also in the possession of a stove or two ;
we halted at a group of four of these little
dwellings, where, under a shed, a fine negro
wench was occupied frying bacon and raaking
cakes of wheaten flour for her raaster's supper,
who, she inforraed us, was absent on a hunt
ing expedition. Within the log-huts sat the
squaws of the party, all busily employed sew
ing beads on moccasins, or ornamenting deer
skin pouches, after the fashion of the dames of

COLUMBUS. 135
old in the absence of their true knights ; our
guide addressed these ladies roughly enough ;
but without eliciting any reply more encourag
ing than a sort of " Ugh ! ugh !" unaccompanied
by a single look. The negro girl, however, had
not adopted the taciturnity of the tribe, but
readily chatted with us, explaining, amongst
other raatters, the nature of the contents of the
boiler, whose savoury sraell greatly attracted our
attention. She said it was coraposed of Indian
corn, boiled a great deal and slowly, with only
a little salt for seasoning ; affirming, that the In
dians preferred this siraple dish to all other dain
ties. For myselfy I gave a decided vote in favour
ofthe fried rashers, and the nice little cakes baked
in the ashes : of these we partook freely, at the
solicitation of the good-humoured cook, who,
with right Indian hospitality, assured us there
was plenty raore.
Returning, we encountered several raerabers
of this tribe who had been passing the day in
Colurabus ; some were on foot, others riding,
but all more or less elevated; a few of the
women were good-looking, and, to their credit,
all of thera sober.
As we repassed Sodora, the sound of revelry

136 COLUMBUS.
proclairaed the orgies resuraed. The rain, which
had hitherto held up, once more began to de
scend with a determination of purpose that boded
us no good : we spurred over the covered bridge,
and were soon after housed again in Georgia.
At our hotel I encountered a gentleman who,
a few weeks before, had been a fellow-passenger
with rae from New York to Charleston ; but his
advance had been less prosperous than mine :
indeed, a brief relation of what he had endured
suflficed to reconcile me to any little fatigue that
fell to ray lot. It appeared that, three weeks
previous to this meeting of ours, he had quitted
Columbus in a steamer going down to Appa-
lachicola : they had proceeded sorae three hun
dred railes on their way, when, in the night, the
passengers were roused from sleep by the alarm
of " fire !" The boat was, in fact, a mass of
flame by the time the flrst persons reached the
deck. My informant, with many others, imme
diately jumped overboard : the steamer was run
on the bank ; and, with the exception of two
persons drowned, the rest of her passengers and
crew were landed in the forest; most of thera
with nothing in the shape of covering except
ing their night-clothes. Luckily, there were

COLUMBUS. 137
only two ladies of the party ; and their con
dition may be imagined, living for four days in
the forest swamp without other than temporary
huts for shelter, and in all other respects raost
scantily provided for, as the suddenness of the
fire prevented any saving of stores or provisions.
At the end of four days the up-river steamer
was hailed on its passing, and, getting on board
of this, they were in a few days after landed
where I found my informant waiting for the next
boat. It appeared that the fire was attributed
to a slave who had been the day before flogged
for mutiny, and who, according to the evidence
of his fellows, had threatened some such re
venge. During the afternoon I walked about this
thriving frontier town, . despite a smart shower :
the stores were well supplied, the warehouses
filled with cotton, and in all quarters were
groups of the neighbouring planters busied in
looking after the sale of their produce, and mak
ing such purchases as their families required.
Nuraerous parties of Indians, — Creeks and
Choctaws, — roamed about from place to place,
raostly drunk, or seeking to becorae so as quick
ly as possible : with each party of the natives I

138 COLUMBUS.
observed a negro-man, the slave of some one
present, but commonly well dressed in the Eu
ropean manner, having an air of superior intelli
gence to his masters, and evidently exercising
over thera the power and influence derived frora
superior knowledge : the negroes, in fact, ap
peared the raasters, and the red-men the slaves.
Along the river-front of the town, a situation
wildly beautiful, I observed several dwellings of
mansion-like proportions, and others of a simi
lar character in progress. I should say, that
nowhere in this South country have I yet seen a
place which promises more of the prosperity in
creasing wealth can bestow than this ; or one
that, from all I learned, is raore wanting in ali
that raen usually consider raost worth possess
ing, — personal security, reasonable comfort, and
well-executed law. In place of these, affrays
ending in blood are said to be frequent, appre
hensions few, acquittal next to certain even in
the event of trial, and the execution of a white
man a thing unknown.
In the midst of all this, be it understood, I do
not consider that a traveller runs the least risk ;
robbery, or murder for the sake of raere plunder,
never occurs ; and to a stranger the rudest of

COLUMBUS. 139
these frontier spirits are usually exceedingly
civil ; but idleness, hot blood, and frequent sti
mulants raake garabling or politics ready sub
jects for quarrels, and, as the parties always go
arraed, an affray is coraraonly fatal to some of
those concerned.
As the population steadily advances, these
wild spirits melt away before it, some becoming
good citizens, others clearing out before the on
ward march of civilization : their sway is there
fore yearly decreasing in force within the States,
their sphere becoming limited in proportion as
persons interested in the support of law in
crease ; already, each season, numbers seek free
dora frora restraint within the Mexican territory,
where an infusion of such blood will be pro
ductive of strange events in Texas ; and if this
fine territory be not, within a very short pe
riod, rendered over-hot a berth for its Mexican
proprietors, " coraing events cast their shadows
before" to very little purpose.

140

TRAVELLING THROUGH THE
CREEK-NATION,
THE ALABAMA RIVER DOWN TO MOBILE.
A LITTLE before raidnight, my two New York
compagnons du voyage and myself took our seats
in the mail for Montgomery, on the Alabaraa
river. We found ourselves the sole occupants of
the vehicle, and were congratulating each other
on the chance, when we heard directions given
to the driver to halt at Sodora, for the pur
pose of taking up a gentleraan and his lady, —
Anglice, a garabier and his mistress.
It was dark as pitch and raining hard when
we set out : a few minutes found us rumbling
along the enclosed bridge, amidst the mingled
roar of the rain, our wheels, and the neighbour
ing falls : the flood passing below us had in the
course of the last ten hours risen nearly twenty
feet ; its rush was awful.
At one of the first houses in the redoubtable

CREEK NATION. 141
border village the stage halted, and "a couple of
trunks were added to our load; next, a female
was handed into the coach, followed by her pro
tector. The proportions of neither could at this
time be more than guessed at ; and not one
syllable was exchanged by any of the parties. In
a few minutes we were again under weigh, and
plunging through the forest.
We reached Fort-Mitchell about daylight,
where forraerly a considerable garrison was kept
up : the post is now, however, abandoned. Here
an unanticipated treat awaited us, for we were
compelled to leave our, by this time, tolerably
warra stage, for one fairly saturated with the rain
that had fallen during the night. Our luggage
was pitched into the mud by the coachman, who
had only one assistant ; so we were fain to lend
a hand, instead of standing shivering by, until
the trunks were fished out, and disposed of on
the new stage. A delay here of an hour and a
half enabled rae, however, to stroll back, and
take a look at the deserted barrack. By this
time too the day was well out; the sky broke
with a more cheerful look than for some days
back had favoured us, and was hailed by us all
with great pleasure.

142 CREEK NATION.
I prepared ray 'baccy, and climbed on to the
box by the driver, resolute to hold on there as
long as possible. For five hours we got along at
the rate of four railes an hour, through a forest
of pine growing out of a sandy soil, without any
undergrowth whatever,— the trees of the noblest
height, and just so far apart that horsemen raight
have galloped in any direction without difficulty.
Our driver was a lively intelligent young fellow,
having a civil word of inquiry or of greeting for
every Indian we encountered : these were by no
raeans numerous however, and they seldom re
plied by raore than a raonosyllable, hardly ap
pearing to notice our passage.
The country was in general slightly undulat
ing, but now and then we came to places where
I considered us fairly pounded, so abrupt were
the declivities and so deep the mud. There are
few persons certainly called on for a raore fre
quent display of pluck and coolness than these
drivers ; I should like sorae of our flash drags-
raen to see one or two bits we got through on
this road ; not that any mile of it would be
considered passable by Pickford's vans, in the
condition it was at this season.
We halted for a late breakfast at a solitary

CREEK NATION. 143
log-tavern kept by Americans, where we were
received with infinite civility, and where the
lady of the auberge was inclined to be amiable
and comraunicative, — not an every-day rencontre
in these parts. She informed me that the means
they could coramand for the raere necessaries of
living were very limited ; that butcher's raeat was
only attainable at Columbus, and that any
attempt to rear a stock of poultry was ridiculous,
as the Indians of the country invariably stole
every feather.
I congratulated her upon the late arrange
ments of Government, which afforded her the
prospect of speedily being rid of these neigh
bours ; but she seemed to think the day of de
parture was still far distant, not over five hun
dred having as yet availed themselves of the
offers held out to them, although the greater
number of those reraaining in the country had
already disposed of their allotraents to specula
tors and dissipated the money they had received
for their land ; having neglected to plant an ear
of corn, or prepare the least provision for the
present winter, — an improvidence of character
peculiar to the natives, and which it was, she said,
impossible to guard against without depriving

144 CREEK NATION.
them of all free-agency. Many, as she assured
me, of these wretched people were at. this time
suffering frora extrerae want, and thousands'were
fast hastening to the like condition, when, unless
aided by Government, they must steal or starve.
This poor couple had, as they told rae, dwelt
in the Indian nation for the last seven years :
they seeraed decent, industrious folk, yet their
habitation bore few raarks of growing corafort ;
the interstices between the logs were unfilled,
through these the wind and rain had both free
ingress. Their hope, I iraagine, was to secure a
good allotraent of land amongst the improvident
sales made by the Indians : they said the place
was a good one, and tolerably healthy, excepting
in spring and fall; judging by the looks of the
family, I should, however, take their estimation
of health to be a very low one.
After breakfast the driver made his appear
ance, and desired us to come down to the stable
and fix ourselves as well as we could on the
Boj^. Conceiving he alluded to me, I asked if
the stage was ready, but received for reply an
assurance that it was not intended the stage
should be any longer employed on the service ;
but that, bythe agent's order, the Bo.r was to

CREEK NATION. 145
be taken on from this point, and that those that
liked might go on with it, and those that did
not might stay behind.
This was pleasant, but all appeared desirous
of trying the Boa;. 1 confess that a mail convey
ance bearing a name so novel excited my curio
sity ; so, sallying forth, I walked down to the
starting-place, where, ready-harnessed and load
ed, stood literally the Bo^r, made of rough fir
plank, eight feet long by three feet wide, with
sides two feet deep : it was fixed firmly on an
ordinary coach-axle, with pole, &c. The raails
and luggage filled the box to overflowing, and
on the top of all we were left to, as the driver
said, " fix our four quarters in as leetle time
as possible."
Now this fixing, in any other part of the
globe, would have been deeraed an impossibility
by persons who were paying for a mail convey
ance ; but in this spot we knew redress was
out of the question — the choice lay between the
Box and the forest. We, however, enjoyed the
travellers' privilege, — grumbled loudly, .pursed all
scoundrel stage-agents, who " keep the word of
promise to the ear and break it to the hope :"
we next laughed at our unavailing ill-humour,
VOL. II. L

146 CREEK NATION.
which the driver bore with the calmness of a stoic,
and finally disposed of our persons as we best
could ; not the least care having been taken in the
disposition of the luggage, our sole care, in fact,
was to guard against beingjolted off by the move
ment of the machine ; any disposition in favour
of ease or comfort was quite out of the question.
During the change, our feraale corapanion and
her proprietor had walked on ; and these were
yet to be provided for ; however, the sun shone
brightly ; and we found a subject for congratu
lation in the fact that rain was not likely to
be superadded to our raiseries. Short-sighted
rogues that we are! What a blessing is it, a
knowledge of the evils to come is not permitted
to cloud our enjoyments in possession ! Crack
went the whip. " Hold on with your claws and
teeth !" cried the driver ; the latter, we found,
were only to be kept in the jaws by compression :
for the forraer, we had immediate occasion ; our
first raovement unshipped a trunk and carpet
bag, together with the band-box of our fair pas
senger — the latter was crushed flat beneath the
trunk, and its contents scattered about the way :
exposed to the gaze of the profane, lay the
whole materiel of the toilet of this fair maiden

CREEK NATION. 147
of Sodom. We gathered up a lace cap ; ditto of
cambric ; six love epistles, directed to the lady
in as raany different hands ; a rausk-box, and se
veral other indescribable articles ; together with
an ivory-hilted dagger, of forraidable propor
tions, a little sullied, like the maiden's honour,
but sharp as a needle. Of the articles enume
rated we raade a bundle, leaving the shattered
band-box on the road, I took the precaution
to roll the several billets up in the carabric cap,
" guessing" they were not intended for the
Colonel's eyes ; for so was our male companion
styled by the driver.
When we overtook the pair, we made every
exertion to dispose of the poor girl, at least
securely; who, in truth, merited our cares by
the cheerful and uncomplaining spirit she evinced
under circumstances full of peril, and ill to bear
for the hardiest frarae.
Wherever the way perraitted a quicker pace
than a walk, our condition was really pinible
to a degree ; luckily, this did not arrive often,
or last long: to crawl at a snail-pace through
the mud was now a relief, since one could re
tain one's seat without straining every muscle to
hold on. L 2

148 CREEK NATION.
Thus we progressed till the evening advanced,
when the clouds gathered thick, and then began
to roll towards the north-west in dark threaten
ing masses, right in the teeth of a brisk, fitful
breeze. " We '11 get it presently," observed our driver,
eyeing the drift ; " hot as mush, and 'raost as
thick, by the looks on 't."
All at once the wind lulled; then it shifted
round to the south-east, and blew out in heavy
gusts that bent the tall pines together like
rushes : upon this change, lightning quickly fol
lowed, playing in the distance about the edge of
the darkening horizon. For about two hours we
were favoured with these preraonitory syraptoras,
and thus allowed ample time for conjecture as
to the probable violence of the storra in active
preparation- Some of our Box crew decided as they desired,
that it would pass away in threatenings only ;
others, that all this heralding would be followed
by a violent storm, or perhaps by a hurricane.
It now occurred to rae that, in moraents of en
thusiasm, encouraged by security, I had ex
pressed myself desirous of witnessing the wild
charge of a furious hurricane on the thick ranks

CREEK NATION. 149'
of the forest. I confess, however, that, having
within the last twenty-four hours witnessed its ef
fects, this desire was considerably abated. With
the probable approach of the event, my ardour,
like Acres's courage, "oozed away;" and the
prospect of such a visitation, whilst exposed
on the Box; became the reverse of pleasant.
In this uncertainty I resolved to consult our
driver's experience ; so, coming boldly to the
point, demanded,
" I say, driver, do you calculate that we shall
be caught in a hurricane ?"
"I'll tell you how that '11 be exact," replied
our oracle : " If the rain comes down pretty, we
shan't have no hurricane ; if it holds up dry,
why, we shall."
Henceforth never did ducks pray more de
voutly for rain than did the crew of the Box,
although without hope or thought of shelter;
but, on the contrary, with every possible chance
of a break-down or upset, which would have
raade the forest our bed, but stripped of the
" Leaves so green, O !" about which your ballad-
raongers love to sing, with their toes over the
fender, and the hail pattering melodiously upon
the pantiles. At last, our prayers were heard ;

150 CREEK NATION.
and we all, I believe, breathed more freely as
the ga;tes of the sky opened, and the falling
fiood subdued and stilled the hot wind whose
heavy gusts rushing araong the pines had been
the reverse of musical.
The thunder-clouds, hitherto confined to the
southern horizon, now closed down upon the
forest, deepening its already darkness : at a
snail's pace we still proceeded, and luckily found
an Indian party encamped close by a sort of
bridge lying across a swarap it would have been
impossible, as the driver assured us, to have
crossed without a good light.
From this party we. not only procured a large
supply of excellent light-wood, but one of the
men heartily volunteered to carry a bundle of it,
and act as guide ; the squaw of the good fellow
was in a violent rage with her raan for this cour
tesy, but he bore her ridicule and reviling with
perfect composure. Each of our party carried
in his hand a large sliver of this invaluable wood ;
and, thus prepared, raarched in front of the Box
across this bridge, almost as ticklish as the single
hair leading to Mahomet's heaven : it was a
quarter of a mile in length, unguarded by a rail
or bulwark of the slightest kind, but generally

CREEK NATION. 151
overhung by the rank growth of the jungle
through which it was laid.
My New York corapanions and I had out-walk
ed the Box ; but when about half-way across, the
rain extinguished our torches, which were rather
too slight for the service, when, as we had per
ceived in our course that many of the planks
were unshipped or full of holes, we thought it
best to halt for the coming up of our baggage.
I can never forget the effect produced by the
blaze of the huge bundle of light-wood borne
aloft by our Creek guide : I entirely lost sight of
the discorafort of our condition in the pleasure
I derived from the whole scene.
Let the reader imagine a figure dressed in a
deep-yellow shirt reaching barely to the knees,
the legs naked ; a belt of scarlet wampum about
the loins, and a crimson and dark-blue shawl
twisted turban-fashion round the head; with
locks of black coarse hair streaming frora under
this, and falling loose over the neck or face :
fancy one half of such a figure lighted up by a
very strong blaze, raarking the nirable tread,
the swart cold features, sparkling eye, and out
stretched rauscular arras of the red-man, — the
other half, meantirae, being in the blackest pos-

152 CREEK NATION.
sible shadow : whilst following close behind, just
perceptible through wreaths of thick smoke,moved
the heads of the leading horses ; and, over all,
flashed at frequent intervals red vivid lightning ;
one moraent breaking forth in a wide sheet, as
though an overcharged cloud had burst at once
asunder ; the next, descending in zigzag lines,
or darting through araongst the tall pines and
cypress trees ; whilst the quick patter of the
horses' hoofs were for a time heard loudly rat
tling over the ^ose hollow planks, and then
again drowned wholly by the crash of near
thunder. Never in my life have I looked upon a scene
which holds so vivid a place within my memory r
the savage solitude ofthe jungle, the violence of
the storm, together with the pictorial accessories
by which the whole picture was kept in move
raent, fixed the attention, and can never, I think,
be forgotten by those who witnessed it.
Having cleared the swarap, we took our places
on the Box, still lighted by our friendly Creek ;
and in about half an hour gained the log-house
where the raail agent to whose considerate
order we owed our change of vehicle, and con
sequent added ' discorafort, dwelt : here, how-

CREEK NATION. 153
ever, a clean comfortable raeal of tea, chops,
fowls, and hot bread of every denomination,
awaited us.
My first moveraent on jumping off the Box
was to lay hands on the Indian guide, and to
proffer to him a flask of cognac, which had
proved of singular comfort to the party : to my
great surprise, he at once declined tasting it ;
smiling and pointing his finger to his forehead,
he gravely repeated half a dozen words, which
a by-stander of the nation readjly translated to
mean, — " Whisky water raake man not eat, —
bad for sore head."
I agreed with this as a general rule, but at the
same tirae begged my Creek to look on old bran
dy as an exception, when used medicinally ; this
being duly interpreted, the Indian laughed hearti
ly, but abided by his rejection of the consolation.
During our parley he took the red and blue
shawl from off his head, wrung it as dry as possi
ble, refolded it, and then adjusted his turban
with infinite care, preparing forthwith to be gone :
he did not depart without a slight gratuity, and
took with him our best wishes. This was a
fine open-countenanced fellow, raiddle-sized, and
firraly built ; he was, in fact, one of the few

154 CREEK NATION.
really good-looking aborigines I have met. As
he was departing from the house, I asked if he
did not require a bundle of light- wood to show
him his road horae ; he laughed, and replied,
" No, he was no waggon ; no fear of hira falling
into the swarap,"
Away he dashed into the raud at a quick trot,
with bent knees and folded arms, anxious, I
fancied, to appease his squaw ; since it was con
trary to her desire that he had ventured on this
service, and not,| as the coachman assured us,
without receiving much abuse for his foolishness,
as his " gentle ladye " terraed this courtesy.
Here we learned that the mail preceding us
had been overturned into a stream from off the
bridge we had next to pass, and lay there yet ;
luckily no passenger was in it at the tirae : our
new driver added, that he had no expectations
of getting the coach through, but he was bound
to try. So wearied were we, that any or all
of the party would have been well contented
to stay here ; but no place could be given us to
sleep in, and until the next coach passed, no
means could be procured to forward us to Mont
gomery ; we had no choice therefore but to
push on with the mail and meet our fortune.

MONTGOMERY, 155
From this hour, midnight, until daylight, we
were generally on foot; the driver in one or two
instances refusing to advance until even the poor
girl got out, assuring us that he would not
hazard the young woman's life, however hard it
was for her to face the night and the roads, fre
quently over knee-deep.
We had a plentiful supply of fire-wood : we
were able, and, I will add, willing men ; and by
dint of great personal exertion, added to an ex
cellent team, and a judicious driver, we brought
the coach through all difficulties, arriving at
Montgomery at six in the morning : thus com
pleting a journey of ninety miles in thirty-two
hours ; and having paid well to be permitted to
assist in getting the mail-bag through roads
which, for the next few days, reraained, I be
lieve, utterly impassable, even under the cir
cumstances I have here atterapted to describe.
At Montgomery we found a wretched inn, with
no possibility of procuring anything save liquor ;
but we had the good luck to learn that in a couple
of hours a steam-boat was departing for Mobile,
down the Alabama : we gave up the stage there
fore, and sallied out of this den of a hotel for
the steamer Carolina. This raoveraent was

156 ALABAMA RIVER.
lucky, as the stage-route to Mobile was, as I
afterwards, learned, as bad as the worst we had
come through ; all the late coaches had raet with
accidents, and the added rain of the last twenty-
four hours would, it was presuraed, render it
impassable. I was so wearied that I saw little of this
place but a muddy river, whose banks were
strewn with bales of cotton awaiting the means
of transport. I could hardly keep my eyes open
till I had swallowed my breakfast : a clean-look
ing berth was assigned me, and, turning in, I
remained oblivious to the world and its cares
until after noon of the following day, when I
awoke fresh as a bird and hungry as an ostrich.
I was told several attempts had been made to
rouse me, but they were unavailing; I answered,
but slept on : for my own part, of this twenty-
four hours of life I protest utter unconsciousness.
I found that I had slept faster than the boat
had progressed, for we were but fifty railes off
our starting-place, having a certain portion of
freight to take in at each plantation, according
to previous engagements.
Down this noble stream we journeyed for four
days and nights; in clear weather making tolera-

ALABAMA RIVER. 157
bly good way, but often compelled by thick fogs
and drift timber to lay our ship alongside the
forest, and make fast to some large tree. Occa
sionally the streara would cant our head sudden
ly, and, before the helm could be shifted, rush we
went right stem on into the nearest grove of wil
lows, with such a crashing and rattling as raade
one wonder at first what the deuce was the row.
In one instance, whilst at dinner, a huge branch
burst open a side door, and nearly impaled a
French conjurer of celebrity on his way to New Or
leans. We were nearly a hundred souls on board,
and each day our limits grew more and more cir
cumscribed ; for the side galleries were filled in
with bales of cotton, the windows blocked up,
at last the very doorways, all but one : lights
were burned in the cabin day and night : the
Carolina became, in fact, a floating mass of cot
ton, which, had the season been dry, one unlucky
spark raight have set in a blaze — an accident by
no means unknown ; luckily, the rain continued
to fall more or less daily, as is usual at this season.
Our passengers were principally composed of
the planters whose cotton had already been ship
ped ; they were a rough but raerry set of fel-
Jows, and raany of thera exceedingly intelligent;

158 ALABAMA RIVER.
kinder or better-disposed raen I never raet : for
their own health's sake I could have desired to
see the bar less prosperous; their visits to that
quarter were over frequent : not that an instance
of inebriety occurred on board, but the stiraulant,
together with the quantity of tobacco they use,
must, I am sure, be ruinous to both health and
enjoyraent. I found raost of them coraplaining
of dyspepsia, but had much difficulty to induce
thera to admit the possibility of their own ha
bits being at least as much the cause as the
climate. The cotton-grounds along the whole cultivated
line of this river are rich beyond conception ;
fields of a raile square were here just picked,
and yet white as snow frora the after-growth.
Many of thera would have been worth re-picking
had hands been procurable ; on every side fresh
clearings are going on, and the produce next sea
son will be greatly increased in consequence of
the stimulus derived from the high prices of this
year. A night scene, whilst lying beneath some ofthe
noble bluffs towering above the river, was often
worthy the delay we paid for it. One or two of
these heights were two hundred feet perpen-

ALABAMA RIVER. 159
dicular, or nearly so : frora the suramit there
is laid down in a slanting direction a slide or
trough of tiraber, wide enough to adrait of the
passage of a cotton bale ; at the bottora of the
bluff this slide rests upon a platforra of loose
planks, alongside of which the boat is raoored ;
the cotton-bag is guided into the slide at top,
and thence, being launched, is left to find its own
way to the bottom ; if it keeps the slide until it
strikes the platforra, coraraunicating with the ves
sel by a plane inclined according to circumstances,
it is carried on board by its own impetus and the
spring of the planks ; but it often chances that
through meeting a slight inequality on the slide,
or from some unknown cause, the bale bounces
off in its passage, either sticking amongst the
trees by the way, or rolling headlong into the river.
At any jutting intermediate stand ofthe preci
pice, negroes are stationed to keep up the huge
fires which afford light for the operation, as well
as to forward such bales as raay stick by the run :
these black half-naked devils, suspended in mid
air as it were, laughing, yelling, or giving to each
other confused directions, raake the forest ring
to the water's edge; whilst through this occasional
din swells the wild chorus of the men upon the

160 ALABAMA RIVER.
surarait, who are regularly engaged rolling the
bales frora the near barn to the slide.
Add to all, the hissing sound of the spare steara,
the blaze of the great fires, and the crackling of
the trees which feed them, with the many strange
figures presented on all sides, — and a wilder
grouping imagination cannot well conceive.
At Clairborne, an elevation rising boldly frora
the river at least three hundred feet, we took in
the last bale of cotton the Carolina could stow :
the water was now level with her gunwale ;
indeed, amidships it was flowing over. We had
still one hundred and fifty railes to perforra of
our journey in darkness, with upwards of a thou
sand bales of cotton on board : such a strange
motley scene as our cabin presented at bed-time
it would be hard to describe ; our provisions
held out pretty well however, and all were dis
posed good-humouredly to bear our lot with
Christian patience.
Tuesday, Dec. 30th. — We reached Mobile,
having come five hundred miles down the Ala
bama since Christmas-day, Upon inquiry for
our mail, I found it was still due, as well as the
two immediately preceding it ; I had, therefore,
lost no time by making choice of the Carolina,

MOBILE, 161
and had possibly escaped broken bones : the dis
tance by land, I ought to observe, is frora Mont
goraery only about one hundred railes,
I here was received by my friends, H  n
and M  e ; and on this day, at the house of
the latter gentleraan, once raore sat down to a
truly comfortable dinner, in company with our
worthy Consul, and a few other gentleraen. I
was detained here for two days, there being no
steamer going across the lake to New Orleans :
these two days were passed most delightfully,
driving Mr, H  n about the beautiful forest
paths which surround this city ; the weather was
divine, and flowers of great beauty yet in abun
dance. The evening of the 31st I passed with Mrs.
B  r, where in a glass of good poteen we
drank a good bye to the year 1834, and a wel
come to the stranger.

VOL. II. M

162

JOURNAL.
January 1st, 1835. — Still detained at Mobile :
the sun shines powerfully, and the sky is pure and
clear. After breakfast lounged about the very
clean streets of this pretty city ; then procured a
neat turn-out, and drove Mr. H  n, he acting
as pilot, as far as Choctaw Point, whence we had ,
an extensive view of the Bay of Mobile with the
south-west coast of Florida. Our way lay through
a forest of pine and oak; many little rivulets cross
ed our path, the sides of which were decked by a
hundred different shrubs and plants, frora the raag
nificent grandiflora, here growing eighteen and
twenty feet high, to the lowly rose : the vegeta
tion is rich, winter though it is ; the beauty of
the spring araongst these noble woods I can only
iraagine at present, but hope, before I, again look
northward, to know more of that season.
The presence of the ghostly-looking cedar.

JOURNAL. 1631
with its funereal draperies of unwholesome moss,
so coraraon throughout Carolina and Georgia, is
here unknown ; the forest is a series of regular
avenues pillared by the loftiest pines ; and there is
no undergrowth, except in little dingles through
which a brook raay creep its way: the rides in
this vicinity are therefore most attractive. At one
point during our ramble we suddenly came to an
abrupt sandy hill, at whose foot ran a sparkling
little rivulet, in the midst of which one of the
aborigines stood in a state of nature, raising water
in the hollow of a gourd, and laving with it his
coal-black shining hair. As we descended, he
stood erect and looked towards us, but without
exhibiting the least symptora of either surprise or
erabarrassraent : his form was light but perfectly
proportioned, with small thorough-bred knees and
feet ; he looked like a new bronze cast from the
antique : the graceful repose of the attitude he
maintained during our approach was perfect.
Mr. H  n asked him if he was Choctaw ; he
replied to the question by a slow nod of the head
and a brief ' yah ! '
Continuing our ride along the sea-bank, we
arrived at a large establishment where oil is ex
tracted from the seed of the cotton-plant : this is
M 2

164 JOURNAL.
a recent discovery, and likely to prove a most
profitable one to the proprietors of this raill.
In the afternoon, accompanied Mr. H  n to
the northern extremity of the city, where we
found broad streets already marked out : plung
ing deep into the forest, many scattered houses
of brick were springing up on sites where barely
trees enough had been cut down to afford elbow-
room for the builders.
January 2nd. — Quitted Mobile on the box of
the mail for Portersville : our way lay over Spring
Hill and through the Pine-barren ; the road was
a track cleared by the woodman's axe ; the stumps
were not as yet macadamized by tirae, still the
horses picked their way amongst thera at a very
fair pace. At a single log-house, situated about
raid-way, we pulled up to change horses ; here too
I perceived, by the array of a table placed in the
open hall, dinner was provided. On ray asking
the landlord, who was a countryman, how soon
dinner would be ready, he replied with a friend
ly confidential air, " Alraost imraediately, but
unless you're cruel sharp-set, I 'd recommend you
not to mind it, sir."
I took the hint thus disinterestedly given, and
walked forward, passing over one of the primi-

JOURNAL. 165
tive bridges common in this section of the coun
try, where swamps and watercourses are fre
quent ; these are commonly overlaid also, as far
as raay be necessary, by a back-wood railway ;
that is, by trunks of trees packed closely side
by side, over which the machine is dragged at
a trot : in Canada this sort of road is termed
a corduroy. Half an hour's start of our mail, whose pace was
not over five or six railes per hour, enabled me to
prolong my walk as far as I chose, and I enjoyed
my freedom greatly ; the perfect solitude of the
scene; the absence of all trace of man, except
ing the one narrow and seeraingly interminable
track, whose unvarying line might be traced as
far as eye could reach ; not a sound could be
heard, only the low sighing of the breeze as it
swept over the ocean of graceful pines whose
spiry heads appeared to kiss the sky. In ten mi
nutes after quitting the log-hut where the coach
rested, I was in fact plunged in a solitude as
complete as it was beguiling.
If you by any chance turned about to look
back upon the line you had trod, or muse upon
the scene, the only remembrance of your true
course was the sun ; and indeed more than once,

166 JOURNAL.
as time wore on, did I halt struck with a sudden
apprehension that I raight have turned upon my
steps, and it required some moments of consider
ation to reassure me. At length, seating myself
upon a fallen pine within the shadow of a tall
magnolia, I resolved to abide with patience the
coming up of the coach.
Resting here, strange fancies connected with
the forest and its savage denizens came throng
ing upon my mind. Here, within a very few
years, the Choctaw alone had wandered, and
the only path was the scarce traceable line lead
ing to the village of his tribe. Where are these
hunters now? gone swiftly away, borne like
auturan's leaves, upon the irrepressible flood of
enterprise and intelligence which is taming the
wilderness with a rapidity Europe has yet no
adequate appreciation of. The hunter and his
prey have alike been scattered or rooted wholly
out; the forest still remains to witness for their
existence, and, although assailed in every quar
ter, the woodman's axe ringing from east to
west, from north to south, it yet appears to defy
the activity of its assailants.
So rapid is vegetation in this climate, so
prompt is Nature to repair any waste in this

JOURNAL. 167
favoured domain of hers, tbat even where places
have been completely bared by the axe or by the
whirlwind, a very few years of repose clothes
them once more, a luxuriant growth of forest,
vigorous and healthful, spreads rapidly over the
waste, asserting its ancient claim, and eagerly
repossessing itself of its heritage.
We reached Portersville at four o'clock, hav
ing been just six hours coming thirty-two miles :
here we found the Government stearaer, the
Watchraan, and five passengers, who had left
Mobile on the 31st ultirao. They had been
detained here two days, living in a log-house ;
their only arauseraent watching the ducks and
snipe whirling in search of fresh feeding-ground
over the dreary waters of Lac Pontchartrain.
Over a long fragile pier, carried far into the
lake on piles, and breached in fifty places, we
gained the deck of the Watchraan, and in five
minutes after were heading towards the setting
sun, whose rays, brilliant though they were, fail
ed to invest with cheerfulness this desolate, half-
drowned land.
I walked to and fro upon the ample deck of
the vessel until ray lirabs were fatigued and my
eyes sick of the eteirnal sameness of the scene;

168 JOURNAL.
and then sought ray4)erth, a very corafortable
One, where I lay till roused next raorning with
the intelligence that we were before the railroad.
Jan. Srd. — On landing, we found the six o'clock
train had just departed ; we were afforded there
fore half an hour to look about us. Here is a very
large hotel, during the suraraer rauch frequented
by the citizens of New Orleans,^ the oflfices con
nected with the railroad dep6t, three or four
little stores, together with a small range of dirty
huts, including two or three cut-throat-looking
sheds, bearing inscribed over the entrance, in
large, ill-assorted characters, the word Tire;
which imraediately under is translated, for the
benefit of country gentleraen, into " Shutting
Galery." These little indications serve to re-
raind the stranger that he is now in the land
of the " duello," where each " captain of corapli
raents" is reputed for " the very butcher of a silk
button," and "fights as you sing prick-song, —
rests rae his minim rest, one, two, and the third
in your bosom."
In little raore than half an hour the cars re
turned frora the city, and in about thirty minutes
we were whirled under the covered depot, where
I was fortunate enough to get a hackney-coach.

JOURNAL. 169
in which I proceeded at once to Mr. H  n's
house in Rue Bourgogne, where I was received
by his nephews with a heartiness of welcorae
that raade me in one moment feel that I was
at home.
The whole of this day was cloudy and cold ; a
good deal of rain had fallen during the night,
and consequently the streets were nearly ira
passable for carriages : the side-walks were, how
ever, very well kept ; and I took a short stroll
about the Araerican quarter, finding on my
return that already, with the prorapt courtesy
which distinguishes this country, several gentle
men had left cards of compliraent and invitation.
Sunday, Uh. — A lovely day. Mr. B  e
having planned a ride as far as the lake, I saw
after breakfast three or four good-looking horses
arrive, caparisoned with showy, coloured, hous
ings and demi-pique Spanish saddles : shortly
after, their raasters appeared, and off we pushed
through raud knee-deep ; we soon gained the
shell road however, and found it as good as the
streets of Mobile, hard, sraooth, and binding as
lime. It is a pity, as this material is to be pro
cured in abundance, that it is not raore generally
applied: paving the streets with heavy stones.

170 DINNER PARTY.
which soon sink deep in the alluvial soil, is, I
fear, likely, without vast outlay, to prove labour
lost; besides that these have to be imported
from the North or from England, not a pebble
existing here over the whole surface of the
country. At five o'clock, met a large party at dinner at
Mr. B  's ; Madame B  e, a lady of the
country, doing the honours with that vivacity
and grace which is said to distinguish the French
Creoles of New Orleans : the dinner was excel
lent, a mixture of English and French cooking,
both good, and admirably served; whilst for
wines, we had Chateau Margaret of 1825, with
frozen champagne, and Madeira, such as can only
be produced in this country. The dinner party,
v?ith the exception of a couple of Creole French
gentlemen, was composed of ray own country
men; and little was here to remind one of a
strange land, save the plates of clear ice spark
ling on the table, and the faces of ebony shining
behind our chairs.

171

NEW ORLEANS.

AMERICAN THEATRE.

On Monday the Sth I attended rehearsal at
the American Theatre, and was pleased to find
it a large, well-proportioned house, with three
rows of boxes, a pit, or parquette, as it is termed,
subdivided as in the French Theatre : each seat
is numbered, and, being taken at the box-oflfice,
is secured to the purchaser for any part of the
evening. The company was a very tolerable
one ; and in the person of a nephew of Mr. W.
Farren's, I found an adjunct of much importance
to rae — an excellent old raan.
My next anxiety was about my audience, not
its numbers, as I was assured every seat in the
house was disposed of, and this as far as could
be allowed, for every night I might perform ;
but I felt solicitous with respect to its character
and composition, of which I had received very

172 AMERICAN THEATRE.
discouraging reports. I kept however my ap
prehensions to myself, resolved to do my best
after ray own fashion, and abide the result as I
best raight.
On Tuesday I made my debut; and never was
raan more agreeably surprised than myself when,
after raaking ray bow, I for the first time took a
rapid survey of the aspect of the house : the par
quette and dress-boxes were almost exclusively
filled by ladies, coiffees with the taste which distin
guishes Frenchwomen in every country, and which
becomes peculiarly striking here, where are to be
seen the finest heads of dark, hair in the world ;
many wore bonnets of the latest Parisian fashion,
and all were more dressed than it is usual to be
at theatres in America. This attention to cos
tume on the part of the ladies, added to their
occupying the pit, obliges the gentleraen to
adopt a correspondent neatness ; and hence it
occurs that, when the New Orleans theatre is
attended by the belles of the city, it presents
decidedly the raost elegant-looking auditory of
this country.
For rayself, I found thera in raanner equal to
their appearance ; a greater degree of repose and
gentility of demeanour I never reraember to have

AMERICAN THEATRE. 173
noticed in any mixed assembly of any place. So
much for report, which informed me I should
find the American house here filled by noisy
planters from the up-country and boisterous Mis
sissippi boatmen. Let rae however add, that ray
personal friends assure me a class of families
attend ray perforraances that is but rarely seen
within this theatre, which the Creoles do not
usually patronize ; and that this extrerae deco-
rura and exclusive appearance are assured by
the places being all secured by families.
This may in some sort be true ; but at most
can only apply to the parquette, dress, and pri
vate boxes ; the raixed population is still here ;
and, after nightly observation, rendered acute
by interest and anxiety, I raust assert that, taken
generally, I do not desire to raeet an audience
whose behaviour raore decidedly justifies the
terms respectable and intelligent.
The least prolonged tumult of approbation
even is stilled by a word to order : and when it
is considered that here are assembled the wildest
and rudest specimens of the Western population,
men owning no control except the laws, and not
viewing these over submissively, and who admit
of no arbiter elegantiarum or standard of fine

174 AMERICAN THEATRE.
breeding, it confers infinite credit on their innate
good feeling, and that sense of propriety which
here forras the sole check on their naturally
somewhat uproarious jollity.
Let rae add, that ray first engageraent was
for twelve nights, four nights per week ; that
I, on my return from Natchez, acted a like
number, with equal patronage ; and that on no
one night Was I afforded an occasion of mak
ing an exception to the opinion I have above
honestly recorded, certainly with greater plea
sure, because in asserting the truth I feel I am
at the sarae time performing an act of justice.

175

FRENCH THEATRE.
The Opera, or French Theatre, which I visited
several times, is an exceedingly well-appointed,
handsome place, with a corapany very superior
to the Araerican one, and having its pieces alto
gether better raounted. It is to this house the
Creole families chiefly resort, as well indeed as
the American ladies of the best class, most of
whora are good French scholars ; and within this
saile on any Sunday evening may be seen eyes
as bright and forms as delicately proportioned as
in la belle France itself.
The building, whereof this theatre forras a
part only, is a very extensive one, having as a
part of its establishment a large ball-room, with
supper-rooms attached ; and, in addition to this,
a variety of hells, where gambling flourishes in
full practice, from the salon where the wealthy
Creole plays his five-hundred-dollar coup, to the
obscure den where roulette does its work, with a
pace slower but as sure, at the rate of half-dollar

176 FRENCH THEATRE.
stakes. I have looked in on these places during
the performances, and never without finding
them full.
Such establishments, ruinous and detestable
under whatever guise or in whatsoever place
they are permitted, become doubly dangerous
when placed under the same roof and carried on
in obvious connexion with what should be at all
tiraes an innocent recreation, and which ought
and raight be one of a refined and moral ten
dency. The scenes of desperation and distress which
gambling yearly gave rise to in this place
amongst a people whose teraperaraent is pe
culiarly excitable, coupled with a recent and
terrible exposie, have at length roused the le
gislature of Louisiana to release themselves
from the stigma of owing any portion of their
revenue to a tax which legalised this worst spe
cies of robbery and assassination. This very
session I had the gratification of seeing a bill
brought into the House, and promptly carried
through it, making gambling felony, and sub
jecting its followers to corresponding punishraent.
The French Theatre will henceforward, I hope
for ever, be freed frora the disgrace which such

JOURNAL. 177
an association necessarily reflected upon the
drama and all concerned with it.
I had the pleasure of meeting at a large din
ner-party at ray hospitable friend's. Col. D  's,
the gentleraan who brought this bill into the
House, and never did I drink to any raan's
health with raore perfect sincerity : may he live
to see his bill render gambling unknown in his
country, and to be looked upon as its greatest
benefactor !

VOL. II,

178

NEW ORLEANS.

JOURNAL.

From the 6th of January till the 29th, the wea
ther continued uniformly fine, but very hot ; the
mercury in our drawing-room ranging from 70 to
75 degrees, whilst in the sun the heat precludes
violent exercise.
2Qth. — The morning sultry to a degree ; con
tinued so until noon, when the wind suddenly
rose until it blew a perfect hurricane frora about
S.W., the rain raeantime descending in a deluge;
the streets were quickly changed into the beds of
rivers, whilst peals of thunder kept rolling from
one quarter of the heavens to another, heralded
by incessant flashes of red lightning of the most
vivid kind. I had promised to dine with a
family whose dwelling was in the next street ;
but to have gotten thither without a canoe was
out of the question. About six o'clock p.m. it

JOURNAL. 179
cleared off, the wind veering round to the north
east, when it became cold ; the glass falling to
45 degrees.
February 1st. — Weather continues fine ; clear,
sunny days, but agreeably cold, with slight frosts
each night. Musquitoes have disappeared, al
though I yet keep under a net at night by way of
raaking assurance "doubly sure." The vegeta
tion fine and uninjured;; the orange-trees on Mr.
H  's plantation, where I this day dined, all
alive, throwing out fresh shoots in every direc
tion ; in two days the roads too have become
dry and hard, with dust in clouds ; the new moon
sets in well for a continuance of fine weather.
Monday i 2nd. — Attended to see Governor
White installed in ofiice. The city artillery
roared, and the ceremony was made brilliant by
the presence of the staff, as well of the regular
American arrriy stationed here as of the nume
rous local corps of the city ; of these volunteers,
were officers of all arras exceedingly well-ap
pointed ; they had also a raore military air, and
were better set up, than their fellow-soldiers of
the North. The French citizen, in fact, acquires
a raore soldierly appearance, and takes greater
pains to fit himself for these holiday doings, than
n2

180 JOURNAL.
either John Bull or brother Jonathan. A great
number of ladies also graced the hall of assera
bly with their presence, and were, as on all public
occasions, privileged persons. "Place aux dames"
rendered the possibility of one of the raasculine
gender's approach all but impracticable.
Certainly in no country is tbere such universal
and exclusive homage extended to the softer sex :
no matter at what expense of his convenience,
or circumscription of privilege, man must give
way on all occasions where the ladies may have
a caprice to indulge in, or any curiosity to
gratify. Dined with Colonel D  k, and sat next to a
fine old Irishman, General M'L  n, who had
passed some of sixty years in Louisiana, yet
preserved his brogue and his ruddy complexion
as freshly as though the tirae had been spent
on the hills of Wicklow ; he had arrived here
under the Spanish governraent when a young
man, and spoke of all the changes since as events
of yesterday. Tuesday, Srd — A curious scene began this
morning at the State House. Mr. Grimes, one
of the late candidates for the Senate of the
United States, encountering Mons. La Branche,

JOURNAL. 181
the Speaker of the Louisianian legislature, in the
hall of the Senate, according to report, struck
him with his whip on account of some unsettled
dispute, and in return received a bullet from
the Speaker's pistol, which took effect in the
breast of the great-coat he wore, but failed to
penetrate it. Mr. Grimes, upon this, fired his
pistol, loaded with ball and buck-shot, at Mons.
La Branche, wounding him slightly in the hand,
and leaving one or two of the conscript fathers,
standing near, in doubt whether they were shot
or no, so disgustingly close was the whiz of the
passing lead.
Dined with Messrs. T  n, where the affray
of the raorning was duly discussed ; some of the
parties present alleging that the quarrel arose
frora political, others from personal motives. It
appeared, however, that Mons. La Branche, after
retiring until his hand was dressed, imraediately
returned to the hall, and resumed his duties as
the presiding judge of the highest deliberative
assembly of this great State ; whilst, within an
hour, Mr. Griraes, who is an able advocate in
great practice, was pleading a cause on which
he was retained in one of the civil courts.
The duel is here a raatter of such frequent

182 JOURNAL.
recurrence, that any event of the kind hardly
excites an hour's notice ; the question is raerely
" which of thera got off?" and with that inquiry
the affair usually ends. A Court of Honour,
having for its end and aira the araelipration of
this system, if not its suppression, has been
instituted this very year, and pretty generally
subscribed to amongst the young Creoles ; but
I believe its regulations have not proved very
eflficacious.
- At nine o'clock p.m. left Mr. T  's ; and
walking to the near Levee, got on board the
Superior, bound for Cincinnati, but chartered to
stop at Natchez. The night was clear, but by
far the coldest we have yet had here : the crown
of the Levee, thronged with its busy crews, was
lighted up by numerous fires, reflecting the hun
dred great steara-boats loading and unloading
here, whilst the air resounded with the cheer of
the negro gangs, given in unison to a few low
siraple notes, but full of wild animation, and,
to my thinking, exceeding musical.
As we cast off into the midst of the wide
streara, the whole bank of the Levee, with the
warehouses bordering upon it, looked as though
illurainated.

.JOURNAL. 183
Wednesday, Mh. — Up early in my little state
room, where I have a sraall French bed, a table,
a chair, with a sash-window that opens on to
the gallery going round the boat. I find my
quarters exceedingly comfortable ; but the vi
bration, owing to the power of the engines,
renders it difficult to read, and puts all writing
quite out of the question.
The river banks are well cleared and very
thickly populated, exclusively by French. Pass
ing DonaldsonviUe, where the bayou la Fourche
quits the main river to fall into the Mexican
Gulf farther to the southward, we saw the ca
pitol designed for the use of the legislature of
Louisiana, but which, after being tenanted for a
single session, was left for New Orleans, and is
now falling to ruin.
Many of the planters' seats are large, well-
looking buildings, but they appear neglected and
badly kept ; indeed the cliraate renders it very
diflficult to keep a house in decent order unless it
is inhabited all the year round, in which case it
stands a chance of as many changes of tenants
as a Turkish caravansary. These lands have a
reputation for prodigious fertility ; at one place,
belonging to a General Hampton, two schooners

184 JOURNAL.
were loading raolasses : here I was inforraed a
thousand slaves find employraent, bringing in to
their employer an enormous revenue. ^
At Baton Rouge, a military post ofthe United
States' army, we carae upon the first rise in the
banks : this place looks over a noble reach and
bay; the barracks appeared rooray and outward
ly in good order.
We frequently drew alongside the forest for a
supply of wood, which the proprietors keep ready
prepared in piles for the use of boats, being paid
for it by the cord. The consuraptien is of
course enormous, and in any other region would
remind one that a scarcity must speedily ensue ;
here, however, the supply appears exhaustless.
I always landed at these places ; and above
Baton Rouge, where the French population is
less general, I commonly found the labouring
woodcutters to be North-country men, or from
the western part of Michigan. They informed
me that they can clear fifty dollars a month for
the seven months they can work in this region,
and that four or five seasons are suflficient to
enable a saving raan to buy a farra in the West.
These raen uniforraly agreed that, on return
ing home, they sorely missed the water of the

JOURNAL. 185
Mississippi. " I'll tell you, sir," said one very
intelligent fellow, within whose hut I walked to
light my cigar ; " there's no pith in any other
water after one's bin' used to drink o' this ; it
seems as though a man couldn't work on water
alone anywhere else."
Whether this is fancy, or whether it arises
frora the regular and abstemious habits they
generally observe whilst working here, I can
not tell ; but the notion I found was universal
throughout Louisiana.
I had frequent applications for a charge of
fine powder for priming ; game, as they inform
ed me, (that is, deer,) being in abundance. I
was greatly pleased with many of these men ;
they are hardy, industrious fellows, and suffer
much during the season of their stay from bad
quarters and bad diet : they said, nevertheless,
it was a good place to come down to, but spoke
with infinite dislike of the dirk and rifle prac
tice of the neighbourhood.
Whilst passing Fort Adaras after dark, our
boat was hailed, signal fires lighted, and at
length rifles fired to bring us to ; but all in vain,
our pilot held on his way, unheeding these
pressing invitations. On ray observing to him

186 JOURNAL.
that I conceived it a little hard not to touch
for passengers when apparently so near to them,
he informed rae that the river was in rapid rise,
and a current setting on that shoire that raight
ground the boat.
Friday, Gth. — My servant awoke rae with the
tidings that our voyage was complete, and we
at Natchy-under-hill, where all things destined
for the upper region are landed. It was about
six o'clock A.M., the rain coming down raerrily,
when I took leave of the Superior and her cap
tain, much pleased with both, and landed ankle-
deep in choice mud.
Three or four negroes followed with my bag
gage to the nearest store, where I got a two-
horse car, or dray, just put upon duty for the
day. In common with one or two other persons,
I engaged the raachine ; and packing ray trunks
and myself upon it, was dragged up the steep
bluff, and so raade my first entrance into
Natchez in a right Thespian conveyance, but
which assuredly required all the authority of
antiquity to make it respectable.
At noon the wind chopped about to north-east ;
and off went rain and cloud, to be succeeded by
a cold as cuttingly severe as any I ever encoun-

JOURNAL. 187
tered in the North. Before dark the mud was
converted into solid ridges, and thick ice coated
each astonished puddle.
My chamber, the only single one in the house,
was furnished with appliances that, in suramer,
must have rendered it delightful ; facing the
east, and opening on the road, were a door and
window, neither of them particularly close-joint
ed ; and, exactly vis-a-vis, another door, with a
keyhole as large as the bore of a four-pounder ;
this was flanked by a third, which in its turn
was set to by a huge open chimney ; and, all
combined, they rendered ray quarters more airy
than was at this crisis agreeable.
Saturday, 7th. — Cold and wind unabated:
walked in search of the theatre, and found it
was not in the town, but standing about half a
mile off, like a solitary vidette, in a grave-yard
too ! Got through the rehearsal of " Born to
Good Luck," and inwardly resolved that the best
fortune that could befall any player on this day
would be to get off acting for the night. This
was in due time happily accoraplished without stir
of mine ; for the oil for our lamplighter being
just landed, after the night's frost, from the deck
of the Abeona steamer, refused to burn at a

188 JOURNAL.
short notice ; a resolution which, when comrauni
cated to me, I very much applauded, declining
with raany thanks the raanager's kindly tendered
substitute of candles ; the appearance was there
fore of necessity put off, and the audience, as
well as myself, granted a respite until Monday.
Never did I feel cold so penetrating; they
say, however, that it never lasts longer than a
couple of days, and is now more severe than is
usual ; we therefore know the worst, and raay
live in hopes.
Sunday, Sth. — Undertook, in corapany with a
Boston friend, to walk out to the seat of Colonel
Wilkins, where I was invited to dine ; a con
veyance had been sent for me ; I was, however,
desirous to see if exercise would warm me, and
set off under the guidance of my Yankee com
panion, in whose good company I had the year
before taken many an excursion through the
pleasant lanes of New England.
We, in the first place, overshot our mark ;
then, in trying across a country gloriously broken
and thickly timbered with a variety of trees, we
lost our way, keeping Mrs. Wilkins' excellent
fare at the fire, and ourselves away from it,
some two hours longer than was needed.

THEATRE, NATCHEZ. 189
Despite of a cart-load of blazing wood, it was
impossible to keep comfortably warm : the wine
too partook of the comraon discomfort, and was
cold and cloudy; the champagne alone was fit
to drink, being sufficiently iced without much
trouble.

THE THEATRE.

Monday, 9th. — The weather a little milder :
took a gallop into the country ; dined early, and
about six walked out of town to the theatre,
preparatory to making ray bow. The way was
without a single passenger, and not a creature
lingered about the outer doors of the house : the
interior I found in the possession of a single
lamplighter who was leisurely setting about his
duties ; of him I inquired the hour of beginning,
and learnt that it was usual to coraraence about
seven or eight o'clock — a tolerable latitude;
time was thus afforded me for a ramble, and out
I sallied, taking the direction leading from the
town. I had not proceeded far when I met seve
ral men riding together ; a little farther on,
another group, with a few ladies in company,
passed leisurely by, all capitally mounted :

190 THEATRE, NATCHEZ.
others, I perceived, were fast approaching from
the same direction. It now occurred to me
that these were the persons destined to form
the country quota of ray auditory : upon looking
back, my impression was confirmed by seeing
thera all halting in front of the rural theatre,
and fastening their horses to the neighbouring
rails and trees.
I now hastened back to take a survey of the
scene, and a very curious one it was : a number
of carriages were by this time arriving from the
town, together with long lines of pedestrians ;
the centre of the wide road was however pro
minently occupied by the horsemen ; sorae, dis-
raounted, abided here the coraing of their friends,
or exchanged greetings with such of these as
had arrived but were yet in their stirrups, and
a finer set of men I have rarely looked upon;
the general effect of their costurae, too, was pic
turesque and border-like : they were mostly clad
in a sort of tunic or frock, made of white or
of grass-green blanketing, the broad dark-blue
selvage serving as a binding, the coat being fur
nished with collar, shoulder-pieces, and cuffs of
the sarae colour, and having a broad belt, either
of leather or of the like selvage; broad-leafed

THEATRE, NATCHEZ. 191
white Spanish hats of beaver were evidently the
tnode, together with high leather leggings, or
cavalry boots and heavy spurs. The appoint
ments of the horses were in perfect keeping
with those of these cavaliers ; they bore demi-
pique saddles, with sraall massive brass or plated
stirrups, generally shabracs of bear or deer-skin,
and in many instances had saddle-cloths of scar
let or light blue, bound with broad gold or
silver lace.
The whole party having come up, and their
horses being hitched in front of the building to
their satisfaction, they walked leisurely into the
theatre, the men occupying the pit : whilst in
the boxes were several groups of pretty and
well-dressed women. The demeanour of these
border gallants was as orderly as could be de
sired ; and their enjoyment, if one might judge
from the heartiness of their laughter, exceeding.
After the performance there was a general
muster to horse ; and away they rode, in groups
of from ten to twenty, as their way might lie
together. These were the planters of the neigh
bouring country, many of whom came nightly to
visit the theatre, and this from very consider
able distances ; forming such an audience as

192 THEATRE, NATCHEZ.
cannot be seen elsewhere in this hackney-coach
age ; indeed, to look on so many fine horses,
with their antique caparisons, piquetted about
the theatre, recalled the palmy days of the Globe
and Bear-garden.

JOURNAL.
Tuesday, IOth. — Cold, cold ; mercury below
zero ; every one complaining of the unusual du
ration of a teraperature rarely encountered here.
I am fast screwing ray relaxed fibres up to their
ancient Northern pitch of hardihood, and begin
to face this nipping air with pleasure. Out early
for a long ride : towards noon the wind shifted
a little to the west, when it became perceptibly
milder, the sun shining brightly and the sky
cloudless. Dined in the country at Mr. M  's ;
where I had a long conversation with Colonel
W  s on the former and present condition of
these frontier states, and derived much in the
way both of information and amuseraent .from
this intelligent and well-informed gentleman.
Wednesday, llth. — Wind north-west ; sun
warm ; day glorious ; in saddle early, and away

JOURNAL. 193
to the forest. In the afternoon visited the
plantation of Colonel B  n, where I saw three
or four very likely racers at exercise ; amongst
others, a horse called Hard-heart, whose time
for a mile, they declare here, has never been
matched. The passion for the turf is, I find, yet
stronger here, if that be possible, than in the
North. One or two persons are this very year
going to Europe for the sole purpose of importing
horses of high reputation : a larger sort of brood
mare would, I think, be of more service to them.
In whatever direction I ride here, I find the
country beautifully diversified ; a succession of
hill and dale, with timber-trees of the noblest
kind. The magnolia grandiflora is found in
groves absolutely, and growing from forty to
flfty feet high.
This night, after the play, an old acquaint
ance, Mr. Howard Payne, came to see rae : he
had just descended the Mississippi frora St.
Louis ; his object in travelling being, as he in
forraed me, to obtain subscriptions for a journal
he purposes to establish in London ; its object,
to cultivate and sustain an exchange of literary
opinions, and a more liberal and generous inter
course in literature than at present exists. His
VOL. II. o

194 JOURNAL.
success, as might be expected, has been raost
encouraging. Thursday, 12th. — Weather balray and genial ;
took a very long walk by the Mississippi, follow
ing the course of the streara through a country
wild and beautiful ; and on my way back, encoun
tered a party of the Choctaw tribe, a miserable
sample of this once powerful people. The two
raen, who appeared the leaders of the party, were
both naked, their faces daubed here and there
with lines and circles of red and black paint :
they bore long rifles over their shoulders ; and,
buckled about their loins, were deer-skin pouches,
containing their ammunition, pipes, &c. Seve
ral children were nearly or quite in a state of
nature, and the squaws themselves scantily robed
in dirty blankets, without a single ornament,
dearly prized as is all finery by these coquettish
children of nature.
The best of this tribe are now away south,
about the head of the Red River : those yet lin
gering near this place, although numerous, are
considered the outcasts of the nation. The ap
pearance of such as I have encountered is squalid
and filthy in the extreme.
Friday, 13th. — A clear windy day, but suflfi-

NATCHY-UNDER-HILL. 195
ciently mild : a boat up from New Orleans, vpith
a mail ; the first received since ray arrival ; latest
date from England, December 23rd. Walked
down to Natchy-under-hill, to inquire about a
boat to New Orleans: saw one monster come
groaning down the stream, looking like a huge
cotton-bale on fire. Not a portion ofthe vessel
remained above water, that could be seen, ex
cepting the ends of the chimneys : the hull and
all else was hidden by the cotton-bags, piled on
each other, tier over tier, like bricks. When
the boat headed the current, in order to steer
in for the wharf, she was swept down bodily ;
and even after swinging into the eddy, I did not
think she would ever muster way enough to fetch
up the few yards she required to reach a berth.
After a deal of hard puflfing and groaning how
ever, she gathered headway, and slowly crept
alongside the bank.
I next strolled through the lane which com
poses the town, and is occupied by a succession
of bar-rooms, dancing-shops, and faro-banks or
roulette-tables : they were each in full operation,
although it was not yet two o'clock p.m.
These dens all stood open to the street, and
were more obscene in their appointments than
0 2

196 NATCHY-UNDER-HILL.
the lowest of the itinerant hells found at our
races. Upon the tables however lay piles of
silver, and behind them the ready croupiers ad
rainistered. I observed wretched devils playing
here, whose whole standing kit would not have
brought a picaroon at vendue. Numbers of half-
dressed, faded young girls lounged within the
bar-rooms or at the doors, with here and there
a couple of the same style of gemraan to be met
with about the silver hells of London ; having,
however, a bolder and more swash-buckler-like
air than that of their mere petty-larceny Eu
ropean brotherhood.
From no party, however, did our company
meet the slightest observation ; although, a very
few years back, for strangers to have strolled
about here, without other purpose than spying
into the nakedness of the land, might have
proved, to say the least of it, a perilous ad
venture ; as it is more than probable they would
have been followed by a long shot, likely enough
to bring a book of travels to an abrupt con
clusion ; but even at Natchy-under-hill, raanners,
if not morals, are improving. Murder is not
nigh so comraon here as it was a few seasons
back ; although now and then one of an extra-

NATCHY-UNDER-HILL. 197
ordinary nature does take place ; a few raonths
back, for instance, an up-river boat brought-to
here, as is usual, and several of her passengers
were landed : just as she was leaving the wharf,
the crack of a rifle was *heard, and one of the
passengers, who had just gained the upper-deck
after his shore-visit of an hour or so, fell dead,
pierced through the head. The wheels were
backed, the corpse laid on the nearest wharf by
the captain, with an account of the raanner of
his death, and, this done, off went the steamer.
An inquest returned a verdict of murder against
some person unknown, which was duly reported
in the journal, together with the unfortunate
man's name, and an inventory of such things
as were found upon hira.
It was presuraed, as he was a stranger from
the West country, that in a play dispute he
had excited a spirit of revenge amongst some
of these desperadoes, which was thus promptly
gratified. The irapunity with which professed gamblers
carry on their trade, and , the course of crime
consequent upon it, throughout these Southern
countries, is one of the most crying evils exist
ing in this society. The Legs are associated in

198 NATCHY-UNDER-HILL.
gangs, have a system perfectly organized, and
possess a large capital invested in this pursuit ;
they are seldora alone, always armed to the
teeth, bound to sustain each other, and hold life
at a pin's fee. Upon the banks of these great
waters they most commonly rendezvous ; and
not a steamboat stirs from any quarter, but one
or more of the gang proceed on board, in sorae
guise or other, according to the capability or
appearance of the agent ; thus every passenger's
business and raeans becorae known — no diflficult
matter amongst men whose nature is singularly
simple and frank, and who are as prompt to
detail their own affairs as they are curious to
know those of their fellows — a little play carried
on during the passage opens to the observant
garabier the habits of his prey, chiefly the plant
ers of the up-country. These planters arrive in
New Orleans or some other entrepot, settle with
their agent or broker, and often receive very
large sums in balance of the crop of the past
season, or in advance upon the next, intended
for the purchase of slaves, &c. Meantime the
sharper is on the pigeon's track ; the toils are
spread abroad by the gang, sorae of whom in
habit the same hotel probably, drink at the sarae

NATCHY-UNDER-HILL. 199
bar, or, it may be, occupy the same chamber;
thus, with nothing to do, and his naturally ex
citable mind fired by an addition of stimulant,
if the victim escapes, it is by miracle. Hundreds
are plundered yearly in "» this systematic way:
nor, if at all troublesorae, does the affair end
here ; for these garablers are no half-raeasure
raen ; they have a ready specific to silence noisy
pigeons, and are right prorapt in applying it.
No persons are better aware of the existence
of this fraternity, and of its great infiuence all
over these countries, than the people theraselves ;
but partly frora custora, and raore through fear,
it is perraitted to exist : a false feeling of ho
nour also prevails, which interferes to prevent
the plundered taking active raeasures lest their
informing raight be attributed to the circura
stance of their having lost alone. The limit
less extent of thinly populated border facilitates
escape, even when the laws are awakened ;
whilst the funds of the community are always
lavishly used to screen a comrade, and at the
same time conceal the working of the system.
The people theraselves will, no doubt, one day
interfere to abate this terrible scourge, which
exists amongst them only for their ruin; and

200 JOURNAL.
when the cry is once afoot, the retribution will
be awful.*
After dinner rode out to the race-course, and
saw Pelham, who is in training to run a mile
with Hard-heart. Pelham is a handsorae little
chesnut, with a perfectly thorough-bred air, and
gallops like a witch.
From the course, rode to the mansion of Mrs.
M  r, the very beau idSal of a Southern dwell
ing, having on either front very deep porticoes
* This period has arrived, and hardly before I expected,
from all I had gathered on the subject; for since this work
has been in the press, I have read of an attack made upon
a known rendezvous of gamblers by a party of neighbour
planters near this place, by whom, after a smart action,
the hold was forced and carried by assault ; when, accord
ing to the usage of war, for which exceeding respectable
authorities might be quoted, the garrison was immediately
hanged. A proceeding of this nature reads very queerly
in the London Journals, but drawing inferences from it
after the rules applicable to the County Middlesex, is
laughable ; these civil rules might be applied with more
justice to the condition of the Scottish frontier in James
the First's time. In my eyes these popular movements
are not only natural, but wholesome ; speaking favourably
for the growing morals of the people, and, in the position
they occupy, the only way of eradicating speedily an asso
ciation as atrocious as it is wide-spread and powerful. I
have gathered much singular information on this subject,
and may in some other shape, when the opportunity occurs,
make it public.

JOURNAL. 201
opening into a capacious hall, with winding
stairs of stone outside leading on to a gallery
twenty feet wide, which is carried round the
building on a level with the first-floor story,
and is covered by a projecting roof supported
by handsome pillars : by this raeans the inner
walls are far removed from the effect of either sun
or rain, and the spacious apartments kept both
cool and dry. The kitchen and other oflfices are
detached, forming two sides of a quadrangle, of
which the house is the third, and the fourth a
garden. Here I saw a negro whose age was supposed
by Mrs. M  r to be about one hundred and
twenty. He had been in her husband's house, who
was an officer in the Spanish service, when she
married, and first came here half a century back,
and was then considered past labour. The old boy
was quite a wag ; cracked several jokes, as well
as his want of teeth would let him, upon one of
the corapany about to be married ; and, on being
shown a lump of fine Cavendish tobacco he had
asked for, his eye sparkled like a serpent's. Mr.
M  r assured rae his appetite was good ; and
that when supplied with abundance of tobacco,
he was always as at present, cheerful.

202 JOURNAL,
After eleven o'clock p, m. put on ray cloak, and,
tempted by the fineness of the night, accorapa
nied ray friend T  r on his way to his own
quarters ; returning along the edge of the lofty
bluff between whose foot and the river is squeez
ed the town of Natchez.
Whilst smoking my cigar here, the murmur of
a fray came to me, borne upon the light breeze :
my curiosity was excited by the indistinct sounds,
and I walked along in the direction whence they
carae for a couple of minutes. As I neared it,
the tumult grew in loudness and fierceness ;
raen's hoarse and angry voices, mingled in hot
dispute, carae crashing upwards as frora the
deeps of hell. I bent anxiously over the cliff,
as though articulate sounds raight be caught
three hundred feet above their source ; — a louder
burst ascended, then crack ! crack ! went a cou
ple of shots, almost together ; — the piercing
shrieks of a female followed, and to these suc
ceeded the stillness of death,
I lay down upon the ground for several rai
nutes, holding ray ear close over the edge of
the precipice, but all continued hushed, I then
rose, and seated myself upon one of the benches
scattered along the heights, almost doubting the

, JOURNAL. 203
evidence of ray senses — which told of a wild
brawl and probable raurder as having had place
beneath the very seat I yet occupied — so uni
versal was the tranquillity.
On one hand lay the town of Natchez, sunk
in repose ; the moon at full, was sleeping over
it, in as pure a sky as ever poet drank joy and
inspiration from ; far below, wrapt in shade, lay
the scene of my almost dream, the line of houses
denoted by a few scattered lights, and in its
front was the mighty Mississippi ; rolling on in
its majesty through a dorainion created by itself,
through regions of wilderness born of its waters
and still subject to its laws ; I could distinctly
hear the continuous rush of the strong current ;
it was the only sound that raoved the air. I
hearkened intently to this rushing ; it had in
deed an absolute fascination for the ear : it was
not like the hoarse roar of the ocean, now break
ing along a line of beach, then again lulled as
though gathering breath for a renewed effort ;
it was a sound raonotonous and low, but which
filled the ear and awed the very heart. I felt
that I was listening to a voice coeval with crea
tion, and that ceased not either by night or
day ! which the blast of winter could not rouse.

204 JOURNAL.
or the breath of sumraer hush; a voice which
the buzz and bustle of noon raight drive from
the ear, but which the uplifting of the founda
tions of the world alone could silence.
Saturday, lUh. — This being my last day in
Natchez, I eraployed it in visiting any lions
that raight hitherto have escaped me ; araongst
other unlooked-for wonders, was an exhibition of
pictures advertised frora England, and purport
ing to be a choice collection of ancient and
modern masters. One picture, a Bacchus and
Ariadne, was finely painted; but had suffered
a good deal from time and travel, combined
with a dip in the Mississippi. The reraainder
of the collection was coraposed of worse pic
tures than are offered to connoisseurs at a pawn
broker's sale in London. The proprietor in
formed me that they were to be brought to the
hammer and sold without reserve in a few days,
when he anticipated a lively sale for the large
pictures, the quantity of raw raaterial used up
in the work being a great consideration with
the lovers of art here. I looked upon the
raere fact of such a speculation being made in
these countries as creditable to the people
and worthy of notice. Natchez will, no doubt.

JOURNAL. 205
one day have an academy of her own ; men
can hardly fail to paint where nature offers so
much that is beautiful for their imitation ; and,
indeed, I have in the remotest places seen at
tempts by self-taught artists that have con
vinced me exaraple and encouragement alone
are needed.
Learning that the steamer Carolton was to
sail this afternoon, I once raore descended into
Natchy-under-hill, where I had an interview with
the captain, who was, I found, a worthy legiti
raate follower of old Father Ocean, recently
transferred to the service of one of his greatest
tributaries : he readily promised to delay sailing
for a couple of hours for rae, until the play was
over; this point being settled, I felt at ease, and
accompanied Mr. M  r to his mother's place
to dinner. The wind came from the south, and
was indeed as perfumed as though blowing "o'er
a bed of violets." The perfume of early spring
began to exhale frora the magnolia and Cape
jasmin, to a degree that rendered distance ne
cessary to prevent its being over cloying. I felt
my spirits bound within rae, as on a half-wild,
little thorough-bred Mississippi nag, I rattled up
and down the well-turfed slopes lying along the
edge of the forest.

206 JOURNAL.
After dinner took a spot, caUed the Devil's
Punch-bowl, en route; it is formed by a vast
sinking of the river-bank, trees and soil all have
gone down together, forming an imraense wooded
basin of great depth and extent. As the streara
undermines these forest bluffs, which it is ever
acting against either on one side or other, these
fallings-in raust occur ; indeed great changes are
constantly taking place on the river; many of a
very striking kind are pointed out as having
occurred within the memory of persons yet
living. As we rode hence to the town, a distance of
four or five miles, the wind shifted to the west,
and a smart shower commenced ; an hour later,
and this lovely day set amidst a violent storm of
rain, lightning, and wind ; so I was fated to de
scend the bluff by water, as I first mounted it :
my vehicle was improved though, for I had this
time procured a corafortable carriage. By half-
past ten I was snugly stowed away, bag and bag
gage, on board the Carolton ; and by eleven we
were following the eternal current araidst a de
luge of rain, and a gale of wind blowing frora
N.W., with a cold which, falling suddenly upon
one's fibre, unstrung by three or four warm days.

JOURNAL. 207
was positively paralyzing. I occupied a state
room by favour ; but, a couple of panes of glass
being out of the window, I suffered for my ex-
clusiveness. Sunday, 15th. — Snow falling, the first I have
seen in the South ; our boat constantly stopping
to load cotton, so that we, at the close ofthe
day, have made only some twenty railes : the
night came on clear, and tolerably mild. By
eight o'clock p.m. we had received from our
several halts one thousand bales of the staple,
all of which were stowed away upon our deck,
galleries, &c. till daylight could no longer be
expected to visit us — even the doors were blocked
up, as in the Alabaraa. Thank Heaven! our
present imprisonment is for a shorter period,
our worthy captain assuring us that by daylight
on Tuesday we shall be alongside the Levee,
At one of our landing-places we found a cou
ple of outcast-looking white-men bivouacking
beneath a tree before a half-burned log, with
a couple of tin saucepans standing near : one of
the precious pair was extended on the damp soil,
bare-headed, with a blanket rolled about him ;
the other sat, Indian-like, wrapped in a similar
robe. For the three hours we were delayed.

208 JOURNAL.
whilst loading three hundred bales of cotton, I
do not think either of thera moved ; they were as
miserable speciraens of huraanity as raight be met
with. I could not help contrasting these mem
bers of the privileged class with a gang of stout
slaves who were employing their Sunday's leisure
in assisting to load the boat, for which service
they each received about two shillings sterling :
I need hardly say the contrast was decidedly in
favour of the negroes.
Monday, \Qth. — Day fine, and not so cold :
passed Bayou Sarah, as high up as which the
tide flows, rising about six inches once in twenty-
four hours.
Opposite Prophet's Island saw a large square
ark, moored to the bank, surmounted by a pole
frora which a white flag was fluttering. I was
in great hopes this was the Mississippi theatre,
which I knew from report to be somewhere in
this latitude on its annual voyage to New
Orleans ; but it turned out to be the store of
a Yankee pedlar on a trading voyage.
This floating theatre, about which I make con
stant inquiry, and which I yet hope to fall in
with, is not the least original or singular specu
lation ventured on these waters. It was project-

JOURNAL. 209
ed and is carried on by the Elder Chapman,
well known for many years as a Covent Garden
actor : his practice is to have a building suitable
to his views erected upon a raft at sorae point
high up the Mississippi, or on one of its tri
butaries, whence he takes his departure early in
the fall, with scenery, dresses, and decorations,
all prepared for representation. At each village
or large plantation he hoists banner and blows
trumpet, and few who love a play suffer his ark
to pass the door, since they know it is to return
no more until the next year ; for, however easy
may prove the downward course of the drama's
teraple, to retrograde, upwards, is quite beyond
its power. Sometimes a large steamer from
Louisville, with a thousand souls on board, will
comraand a play whilst taking in fuel, when
the profit must be famous. The corps drama-
tique is, I believe, principally composed of raera
bers of his own faraily, which is numerous, and,
despite of alligators and yellow fever, likely to
increase and flourish. When the Mississippi
theatre reaches New Orleans, it is abandoned
and sold for fire-wood; the raanager and troop
returning in a steamer to build a new one,
VOL. II. p

210 JOURNAL.
with such improveraents as increased experience
raay have suggested.
This course Mr. Chapraan has pursued for
three or four seasons back, and, as I am told by
many who have encountered this aquatic com
pany, very profitably. I trust he may continue
to do so until he makes a fortune, and can
bequeath to his kin the undisputed sovereignty
of the Mississippi circuit.
Tuesday, 17th. — At six a.m. was once more
safely landed upon the already busy Levee of
New Orleans ; here I rested until the 22nd ; on
which day I took steam direct to Mobile, accom
plishing the trip in forty-eight hours, one night
of which we passed grounded on the Rigolets,
a sandy diflficult pass connecting Lac Pontchar
train with Lac Borgne.

211

MOBILE.
This little city was to me one of the raost
attractive spots I visited south of the Potoraac.
I came upon it at my first visit after a severe
roughing, and found a fine cliraate and old
friends, whose warra welcome could not have
come in better time. I found here also the best
conducted and best appointed hotel in the South
ern country, and society congenial and araiable :
all these combined go a good way to prejudice
a man in favour of a place which in itself may
have little to recommend it. Mobile, however,
has claims which are rapidly increasing its popu
lation and its trade ; indeed the ratio of advance
in both is equal to that of any other place in the
States ; in proof of which, I find by a report just
issued of the returns of the foreign trade, ex
clusive of the coasting business, which is con
siderable, that the increase has been gradual and
steady, and in five years stands thus :
In the year 1830, the total value of the im-
p 2

212 MOBILE.
portations to the port of Mobile was 1,044,135
dollars : the value of the exports for the sarae
year was 1,994,365 doUars. In 1834, the value
of the imports is stated at 3,088,811 doUars :
the exports for the sarae year at 6,270,197 dol
lars. For the current year, I ara credibly as
sured that an addition of one-third to these last
araounts will not rauch overrate the enormous
increase to which, should peace continue, each
year must add for many seasons to come, since
the influx of planters to Alabama is clearing the
cane-brake with a rapidity unprecedented even
in this country : the Indian reserves are all com
ing into cultivation as fast as they are vacated ;
and, in fact, Alabama at this day may be said to
present a spectacle of successful energy and in
dustry not to be surpassed. A railroad is now
in progress, the prospectus for which was in cir
culation during my visit, which is to connect
North and South Alabaraa, comraencing in the
valley of Tennessee, and running to sorae navi
gable point of the harbour of Mobile. A glance
at a map of the States will at once render obvious
the immense importance such a line of corarau
nication will be of to this city, concentrating on
this point the trade, not only of North Alabaraa

MOBILE. 213
and the Tennessee valley, but sorae of the most
fertile portions of Kentucky, Virginia, North
Carolina, Georgia, and Mississippi.
By this railway the great obstacle in the way
of the trade of the Tennessee valley, the muscle
shoals, will be avoided, whilst, at a fair calcula
tion, it is expected that the increase of cotton
received into Mobile will amount to one hundred
thousand bales : besides a vast quantity of pork,
beef, bacon, flour, lard, whisky, &c. that now
seeks a market at New Orleans, through those
great natural channels, the Tennessee, Ohio,
and Mississippi rivers : to the navigation of the
first-named river the shoals have hitherto been a
serious drawback, detaining laden craft of all
kinds for weeks, and even raonths, until, late
in winter or early in spring, a rise in the rirer
enabled them to float over into the highway of
the Western world, the Mississippi.
The grounds on which the vast and seeraingly
extravagant increase of the cotton crop of this
State of Alabaraa raay be justified, are to be
found, not only in the great fertility of tbe vir
gin soil yearly brought under cultivation, but
in the unprecedented increase of population.
This very year, it is calculated, not less than

214 MOBILE.
twenty-five thousand slaves have been brought
into this country from the older States on the
Atlantic ; this araount will, in all probability, be
exceeded by the increase of next season, as there
are many millions of acres of the most fertile
land in the Union yet in the hands of Govern
ment for sale, lately conceded in exchange by
the Indians of the Creek and Cherokee tribes.
The great cause of emigration from the At
lantic States is to be looked for in the tempta
tion offered the planter by a soil of vastly
superior fertility. In South Carolina and in
most parts of Georgia, it will appear that a
good average crop will give one bale or bag
of cotton, weighing 310 lbs. for each working-
hand employed on the plantation ; now, in Ala
bama, four or five bales, each weighing 430 lbs.
is a fair average for an able-bodied slave en
gaged in the cultivation ; and I have conversed
with many planters, holding places upon the
bottora-lands of the river, who assured rae their
crop was yearly ten bales of cotton for each
full-grown hand.
When it is considered that this season the
value of cotton has been ranging from sixpence-
halfpenny to ninepence per pound, the enorraous

MOBILE. 215
receipts of some of these persons, who raake frora
four hundred to three thousand bales of 430 lbs.
weight each, raay be iraagined.
These are the men who have been my cora
panions on all ray late stearaboat trips, for this
is the season that affords them reldche and
brings them together ; and in this city especially,
as at Natchez, it is by this singular class I am
surrounded : they are not diflficult to compre
hend, and a slight sketch of their condition and
habits may not be uninteresting, as they form the
great mass now inhabiting this raighty region,
and it is from them a probable future population
of one hundred million of souls must receive
language, habits, and laws.
We generally associate with the Southern plan
ter ideas of indolence, inertness of disposition,
and a love of luxury and idle expense : nothing,
however, can be less characteristic of these fron
tier tamers of the swamp and of the forest : they
are hardy, indefatigable, and enterprising to a
degree; despising and contemning luxury and
refinement, courting labour, and even making a
pride of the privations which they, without any
necessity, continue to endure with their fami
lies. They are prudent without being at all mean

216 MOBILE.
or penurious, and are fond of money without
having a tittle of avarice. This may at. first
sight appear stated from a love of paradox, yet
nothing can be more strictly and siraply true ;
this is, in fact, a singular race, and they seem
especially endowed by Providence to forward
the great work in which they are engaged — to
clear the wilderness and lay bare the wealth of
this rich country with herculean force and rest
less perseverance, spurred by a spirit of acqui
sition no extent of possession can satiate.
Most raen labour that they raay, at sorae
contemplated period, repose on the fruits of
their industry ; adventurers in unhealthy re
gions, generally, seek to amass wealth that they
may escape from their pSnible abodes, and re
compense themselves by after enjoyment for the
perils and privations they have endured. Not
so the planters of this south-western region;
were their natures raoulded after this ordinary
fashion, these States, it is true, might long con
tinue raines of wealth, to be wrought by a suc
cession of adventurers ; but never would they
becorae what Providence has evidently designed
they shall be, — great countries, powerful govern
ments, and the home of millions of freeraen yet
unborn.

MOBILE. 217
These men seek wealth frora the soil to re
turn it back to the soil, with the addition of the
sweat of their brows tracking every newly-broken
furrow. Their pride does not consist in fine
houses, fine raiment, costly services of plate,
or refined cookery : they live in humble dwell
ings of wood, wear the coarsest habits, and live
on the plainest fare. It is their pride to have
planted an additional acre of cane-brake, to have
won a few feet from the river, or cleared a thou
sand trees from the forest ; to have added a
couple of slaves to their faraily, or a horse of
high blood to their stable.
It is for these things that they labour from
year to year. Unconscious agents in the hands
of the Almighty, it is to advance the great cause
of civilization, whose pioneers they are, that
they endure toil for their lives, without the pro
spect of reaping any one personal advantage
which might not have been attained in the first
ten years of their labour.
It is not through ignorance either that they
continue in the^ simple and rude habits of life.
Most ofthese planters visit the Northern States
periodicaUy, as weU as New Orleans; their
wealth, and the necessity the merchant feels to

218 MOBILE,
conciliate their good-will, raakes them the ready
guests at tables where every luxury and refine
ment abounds : but they view these without
evincing the least desire to imitate thera, pre
fer generally the raost ordinary liquids to the
finest-flavoured wines, and, as guests, are much
easier to please than to catch ; for not only do
they appear indifferent to these luxuries, but
they seek to avoid thera, conteran their use, and
return to their log-houses and the cane-brake to
seek in labour for enjoyment.
There must, however, be a great charra in the
unrestrained freedom of this sort of life ; since
I have frequently raet women, who were bred
in the North, well educated, and accustoraed for
years to all the agrimens of good society, who
yet assured rae that they were happiest when
living in the solitude of their . plantation, and
only felt dull whilst wandering about the coun
try or recruiting at sorae public watering-place.
The great drawback to these frontiers, and
one which will, I fear, exist for some tirae, un
less the citizens of the towns take the law into
their own hands, and execute it in a suraraary
raanner, is to be found in the presence of cer
tain idle ruffians who exist here. The only

MOBILE. 219
matter of surprise to rae is, that there are so few
of the description, and that in such a country
crirae is so rare, where the facility afforded for
escape is great, and where the laws view with
such reverence the liberty of the subject.
One or two a,necdotes of recent occurrence
will, however, do more to put the reader in
possession of the true state of the case than a
volume of unsupported reasoning.
During the last night I acted in MobUe, whilst
on the stage, I heard a slight noise in the upper
boxes ; a rush was made to a particular point ;
then a moment's scuflBe, and all was silent. The
ladies in the dress-boxes had not moved, and
very little sensation was communicated to the
crowded pit : the whole thing, in fact, was over
in as short a time as I have occupied in the
telling of it.
After the play I accompanied a party of ladies
to the house of Mr. M  e to sup, and here, for
the first time, learned, through an inquiry casu
ally made, that during that slight scuflSe a
citizen had been killed by the blow of a knife,
given by an intemperate ruflfian naraed M'Crew,
who had quietly descended the stairs afterwards,
accompanied by his brother. These men were

220 MOBILE,
from the country, were known disturbers of the
peace, and rarely raade their appearance without
bloodshed following.
The next morning I inquired as to the result^
when it appeared the homicide was adjudged
manslaughter in a chance-medley ; and the ruf
fian, who had voluntarily appeared before the
raagistrate, was admitted to bail. Now here
was a case where Lynch law might have been
most beneficially eraployed : the citizens should
have caught both these ruffians, and hung thera
at their gates in terrorem.
I raay add here, that, within a raonth of this
tirae, these fiends atrociously raurdered the child
of a planter, out of revenge for sorae real or
fancied affront ; and, finding the exploit likely
to prove serious, fled to Texas.*
* Since this sheet has been in the course of printing, I
have received an account of the capture of the murderers,
from a correspondent at Mobile. The State had offered a
large reward, and taken active measures for the M'Crews'
detection. The retreat of one was traced out in the Mexican
territory; and the details ofhis surprisal and capture, whilst
resident amongst the Comanche Indians, are absolutely ro
mantic, and highly creditable to the courage and patience of
the captor, a private individual. I have to regret that these
details are too long to be inserted by way of note. The mur
derers (or one of them at least) are now at Mobile awaiting
trial.

MOBILE. 221
My next illustration is ofa kind so little in
keeping with the year 1835, that it would be
a better story if dated frora the debateable
land, anno Dora. 1535. The hero of the fight
I am about to narrate is as fine a specimen of an
old Irishman as ever I met with, and I have
seen him frequently : his name is Robert Single
ton, and his residence is Baldwin county, in this
State. It appears that Mr. Singleton had lent to
a Mr. English four or five negroes, whom at
a certain time he claimed, according to agree
ment, and took back to his own place : hence
arose a dispute as to the right of possession ;
which dispute the sons of Mr. English decided
upon settling in a right border fashion.
Accompanied by three of their white neigh
bours, and three of their father's slaves, the two
Englishes repaired to the plantation of Mr. Sin
gleton. He was absent; but they surrounded
the house, and, after a resistance on the part
of the slaves, which cost one of them his life,
the nuraber claimed were made prisoners, and
raarched off for the country of their captors.
Meantime, a lad who had escaped from the
house on the first attack, found, and communi-

222 . MOBILE.
cated the surprisal and the result to his master,
Mr. Singleton, who, accorapanied by his eldest
son, without a raoraent's hesitation put spurs to
horse, and took the line of country likely to cut
off the retreat of the enemy.
Early on the next morning, July 4th, the
Singletons came upon a bridge they knew the
Englishes must cross ; and, not discovering new
tracks, decided to halt here : they had not
waited half an hour, when the other party came
in sight.
A parley was caUed. Singleton, senior, de
clared himself and son resolute to maintain the
bridge against all comers, unless his slaves were
restored. The elder brother, W. English, begged the
Singletons not to fire, as they would surrender
the negroes : at the same tirae, the party alight
ed ; but as Singleton turned his head to desire
his son to stand fast, he received a shot in the
left shoulder ; and, on a second, saw his son fall
dead across his feet. Clapping his gun to his
shoulder, he shot David English through the
brain ; a barrel was at the same moment levelled
against hira by Wra. English, but snapped : again
he called on Singleton not to shoot ; but he this

MOBILE. 223
tirae called in vain. Taking up his son's loaded
piece, he shot his adversary whilst in the act of
stooping to lift his dead brother's rifle.
One raore shot was discharged frora the Eng
lish party, and Singleton received a second ball
in his side. The assailants then fled, leaving
the resolute old planter master of the field, with
his eldest son, a young man of the best habits,
dead at his feet.
His wounds did not prevent his collecting his
negroes after the flight of his eneraies ; he then
walked back half a raile to where he had left
his horse, raounted, and rode home, although
upwards of fifty years of age. Mortification was
for some time apprehended ; but he at last re
covered perfectly, and was, when I left Mobile,
in robust health.
The detail of this affair, as it stands in the
journal, is concluded by a regular list with the
names of killed and wounded ; but not one word
of comment. It is now in my possession, and
the account may be relied upon as authentic in
every particular.
The streets of Mobile are covered over with
a kind of shell that abounds in the neighbour
hood : this binds with the fine sand, and makes

2124 MOBILE.
the cleanest, best road possible, and is besides,
I believe, very durable. Since the swarapy ways
have been replaced by good roads of this ma
terial, the health of the city has never been
attacked by fever, which was frequent before.
The cholera is unknown here, although its ra
vages in the south-western country were, and in
fact are, terrible.
The raarket is abundantly supplied with pro
visions, fish, and garae of every variety. Here
is one of the best-ordered hotels in the States,
and altogether as raany inducements to the
visitor or settler as any place I saw. The sum
mer I had no raeans of proving ; but frora all
hands learn that the heat, although continuous,
is by no means excessive ; whilst, within five
miles, on the heights of Springhill, the nights
are, at the hottest season, absolutely cold.
A ball, given in honour of the birth-day of
Washington, by the volunteer corps of the city,
afforded me an adrairable occasion of seeing the
people, since the comraittee was kind enough to
send rae a ticket.
Here, to the nuraber of six hundred, was
assembled all of the democracy of Mobile having
a claim to the term respectable, properly ap-

MOBILE. 225
plied to habit and character, not to calling or
wealth. I have seldom seen a better dressed,
and never a better conducted assembly, whilst
nothing could be raore perfectly deraocratic.
Here you raight see the raerchant's lady, whose
French ball-dress cost one hundred and fifty
dollars, dancing in the same set with the modiste
who made it up ; whilst the merchant changed
hands with the wife of his master-drayman, and
the wealthy planter's daughter footed to her
brother's Schneider, hiraself tricked out in some
nondescript uniforra of his own raaking. Yet
were all perfectly well conducted, and equally
happy : nor is it found that any ill consequence
or undue farailiarity continues after these public
occasions restore each to his, or her, own sphere,
or pursuit.
The supper was laid out raost tastefully upon
the galleries surrounding the inner court of the
hotel, enclosed for the occasion with canvass,
and the pillars wreathed with shrubs and flowers.
At the upper end was an ugly, ill-dressed pic
ture, which, I was informed, represented Liberty ;
a proof how the imagination can deify its own
object of veneration, for a less inviting gentlewo
man it would be diflficult to conceive.
VOL, II. Q

226 MOBILE.
On the 7th of March I returned to New
Orleans, via Portersville ; and, on halting at the
house midway the forest, was advised by my
countryman the landlord to dine, by all means,
if I was hungry ; for he had " an illegant turkey,
a wild one, and a Tennessee ham, with a lump
of roast beef, rare and tinder." I followed his
counsel, and made a most exceUent raeal on the
wild turkey, a bird of Which I should never tire,
I set it down as the foremost of all winged
things yet appropriated to the use of the kitchen.
I arrived at New OrleanSj and again passed
three weeks amidst attentions that never Wearied,
and the most flattering professional success. I
will here, as I have before done, drop ray Jour
nal, and put ray Impressions together in a less
desultory form.

227

NEW ORLEANS.
The day of my first arrival at this capital of
many waters, this city sui generis, was one to
which I had looked forward with much impati
ence and highly-roused expectations.
The disastrous affair of 1812 had made New
Orleans a narae farailiar to Britain, and given to
it a celebrity more general amongst all sorts
of men than its vast trade alone would bave
achieved for it in double the tirae.
Frora the day also of my landing on the con
tinent I had never heard this city named with
out accompanying reraarks being elicited de
scriptive of its rapid increase, its singular posi
tion, and raotley population, together with the
speculations founded on the proraise of its future
greatness derived frora its present healthful con
dition ; that is, its political and coraraercial sa
nity; since no term can be worse applied, as
illustrative of the views entertained of it by the
Q 2

228 NEW ORLEANS.
North, whether physically or morally consider
ed ; views however that, on both these points,
I have decided are singularly overcharged, even
by persons one would conceive possessed of the
information likely to lead to a correct judgment.
This I attribute partly to the habit we are in of
taking reports of places for granted, and repeat
ing them from father to son without much per
sonal examination, or rather coraparison, and
partly to the changes constantly operating upon
society here, with a rapidity at least equal to the
growth of building or the increase of produce
and population; changes which come like Dun
can's couriers, "thick as hail," the last giving
the flat lie to the truth just told ; to be, in turn,
proved false by a successor.
To a stranger, the point of observance raost
original and striking, and which will at . once
inform and interest hira, is the view frora the
Levee, with a walk along this artificial embank
ment, which comraencing a hundred railes above
New Orleans, and thence waiting on the stream
whose rule it circumscribes, here bends like a
drawn bow about the city, forming a well-fre
quented quay of some seven miles.
For three railes of this, the Levee is bordered

NEW ORLEANS. 229
by tiers of merchant shipping from every portion
of the trading world, and close against it, those
of the greatest tonnage, having once chosen a
berth, may load or unload without shifting a
line ; a facility derived from nature that no port
in the world can rival.
Along the whole extent of this line situated
below the Levee, but at a distance of some two
hundred feet, runs a range of store-houses, cotton-
presses, and shops, connected by tolerably weiU
flagged side-walks ; and certainly in no other
place is such accommodation more absolutely
required, the middle space or street, so called,
being, after rain, a slough, to which that of Des
pond, as described by Bunyan, was a bagatelle ;
and floundering through, or pounded in which,
are lines of hundreds of light drays, each drawn
by three or four fine mules, and laden with the
great staple, cotton.*
At both extreraities of the tiers of shipping,
but chiefly at the south, lie numberless steam
boats of all sizes ; and yet again, flanking these,
* These ways oftimes, in continued wet weather, become
impassable, to the great injury of business : but remedy
there is none, save patience ; for any animal under the size
of an elephant would be lost in the mud, swallowed wholly
up.

230 NEW ORLEANS.
are fleets of those rude rafts and arks construct
ed by the dwellers on the hundred waters of
the far West ; and thence pushed forth, freighted
with the produce of their farms, to find, after
many days, a safe haven and a sure market
here. Let it not be forgotten that many of the pri
mitive-looking transports lying at this point have
performed a drift of three thousand miles. Their
cargoes discharged, they are iraraediately dis
posed of to be broken up ; their crews working
their way back on board the steamers, to return
in the following year with a vessel and a freight,
both of which are at this tirae flourishing in ftill
vegetation in fleld and in forest.
The interest with which I looked upon these
far-travelled barks I dare hardly trust rayself to
declare or to describe; they told rae of raen and
of their increase, who, only for the waters on
which they live, would be as little known and
quite as unciviUzed as the Indian whose land
they have redeemed from the wild beast or raore
savage hunter, to bid it teera with abundance,
and to be a refuge and a horae for millions to
rejoice in.
The appearance of the Levee during this sea-

NEW ORLEANS. 231
son is most animated. At the quarter occupied
by the great Western steamboats, the lading and
discharging cargoes seldom ceases during the
busy months, when each hour appears tp be
grudged if not devoted to toil. At night, fires
raark the spots where work is raost brisk, and
the warehouses along the line are frequently
illurainated frora the street to the upper story :
crowds pf labourers, sailors, bargeraen, and dray-
raen cheer, and order, and swear in every lan
guage in use amongst this mixed population ;
and, above all, at regular intervals, rises the
wild chorus of the slaves labouring in gangs,
who, if miserable, are certainly the merriest mi-
serables in existence.
No scene is more Ukely to impress a stranger
with a full knowledge of the vast deal of trade
transacted here in a few months than this pro
longed bustle at a time when the rest of the
city sleeps ; and, as he pursues his way amongst
tens of thousands of bales pf cotton that actu
ally Qover the Levee for railes, he will cease to
doubt of the wealth which he learns is on all
hands aecumulating with a rapidity almost par
taking of the marvellous,
I had heard in the North much said about the

232 NEW ORLEANS.
great danger incurred by a night-stroll i n New
Orleans, and so will the stranger who next fol
lows after me : but do not let these bug-a-boo
tales deter him frora a walk upon the Levee
after ten p.m. It is not araongst these sons
of industry, however rude, that he will encounter
either insult or danger : I have traversed it often
on foot and on horseback, and never raet with
the first, or had the slightest cause to apprehend
the latter.
In a city like this, araongst a concourse of
strangers, the worst sort of men are doubtless to
be met with, as in all large cities ; but surely
not in greater numbers. I question whether
London or Paris can boast of less crirae in pro
portion ; certainly, not fewer felonies. Here, it is
too true, a quarrel in hot blood is often followed
by a shot or a stroke with the ready poniard ;
but for this both parties are equally prepared,
and resolute to abide the issue : and for the
stranger, all he has to do is to keep out of low
places of garabling and dissipation, and, if in a
large hotel, to keep his door locked; a precau
tion which would be as rauch called for at Chel
tenhara or Spa, were the congregated numbers
equally great ; although, .in the latter places.

NEW ORLEANS. 233
I admit, the thieves might be nicer men, better
dressed, and not chewers of 'baccy.
The streets, after nightfall, are the very quiet
est I ever saw in any place possessing one-third
of the population. The theatres, I repeat, as far
as my observation goes, raight serve as raodels
to cities boasting greater clairas to refineraent.
As a set-off, however, let the stranger visit the
garabling tables, which are numerous ; the low
balls, masked or other, occurring every night,
for whites or quadroons, or both ; let him visit
the low bar-rooms, or even look into that of the
first hotel, which bar forras a half-circle of forty
feet, yet is, during ten hours of the twenty-four,
only to be approached in turn, and whose daily
receipt is said to exceed three hundred dollars
for draras ; and he will, if such be his only sources
of inforraation, naturally corae to conclusions
anything but favourable to the moral condition
of New Orleans.
The crowd so occupied, however, be it reraem
bered, is coraposed of strangers, or what is here
called the transient population, at this season
counting at least forty thousand persons, the
greatest proportion of whora are here without a
home except the bar-room of a public-house, or

234 NEW ORLEANS.
a shelter save the bedchamber which they have
in coraraon with from three to twenty compa
nions, as luck or favour may preside over their
bUlet. This assemblage is corapounded of raen from
every section of the Union, — the quiet Yankee,
cautiously picking his way to fortune, with small
raeans and large designs ; the gay Virginian,
seeking a new location on the rich land of Mis
sissippi or Alabaraa ; the suddenly enriched plan
ter of Louisiana, full of spare cash, which, can
only be got rid of in a frolic, having settled
with his merchant and purchased the contera
plated addition to his slave stock, and resolute
to enjoy his holiday after his own fashion ; the
half- civilized borderers frora the banks of the
Gazoo, or the prairies of Texas, corae hither
with the first produce ever won by industry
from tbe swarap or the forest, to see New
Orleans, form connexions, and arrange credit
for future operations.
Numerous as are these classes, they are yet
readily distinguished by one who has seen and
observed thera in turns, and noted their charac-.
teristics, which are indeed suflBciently distinct.
The Yankee, slow, observant, concentrated,

NEW ORLEANS. 235
with thin, close-compressed lips, bilious cora
plexion, and anxious countenance, raay be picked
out amidst a hundred other men, edging cau
tiously frora place to place, scanning every
group, and having, as it were, eyes and ears
for all present.
The Virginian, tall of stature, thin and fiexile
of forra, of an easy carriage, with an open up-
look, and an expression at once reckless and
huraorous, talking rapidly and swearing loudly,
frank in his abord, of engaging deportment, and
assuming' as though there were no country so
good as the " Old Dominion," and no better
man than her son.
The Kentuck farmer — ^ whose marked charac
teristics are pervading all the States bordering
on the Mississippi, and who, together with the
Buck-eye of Ohio, will ultimately give tone and
manner to the dwellers on its thousand streams —
of a stronger outline and coarser starap, as is fitted
to and well-becoming the pioneer of the grandest
portion of the continent, and of one who is putting
forth the thew and sinew of a giant, to benefit
posterity; his only present recompense the pos
session of a rude independence, and the consci
ousness of increasing wealth, to add to which

236 NEW ORLEANS.
his energies are unceasingly devoted ; his relaxa
tion, meantime, an occasional frolic or debauch,
which he grapples with, as his father did with
fortune and the forest, closely and constantly,
only pausing for breath through sheer exhaustion,
or prostration rather. His person is square, and
better knit together than most men's ; his com
plexion clear, though bronzed by exposure to
sun and storm ; his raanner rustic, but not rude ;
with a self-possession that is evident at a glance,
and which raakes him at all tiraes equal to any
chance or change that raay cross hira. Good-
humoured, sociable, and very observant, his
confidence is quickly won, or lost, according
to a first impression. Proffering largely, yet
ever ready to more than raake his words good ;
full of kindliness to those he loves or esteems ;
boisterfous, rude, and ill to deal with, where he
dislikes ; capable withal of rapid refinement, and
having a ready perception of its advantages.
The Creole of Louisiana forms another dis
tinct specimen to be raet with here, though sel
dom mixing much with either of the first named
classes. He invariably conserves much of the
air and appearance of la belle France, and can
never be mistaken, oftering, according to his

NEW ORLEANS. 237
disposition, all the varieties of his original
stock, frora the amiable deportment and com
panionable bonhommie of the well-bred French
raan, to the fierce brusquerie and swaggering
sneer of the gallant of the estaminet.
What will be the result of a complete amal
gamation of all these classes, which one day
must arrive, together with an admixture yet
more opposed, — an admixture as certain never
theless as is the march of time, but which cannot
now be named, and which these classes would
each and all shudder to contemplate, — an amal
gamation that has already begun, and is in truth
in fuU progress ; and this increase a falling-off
in the price of cotton, so as to render slave-
labour less valuable, will infallibly hasten in a
ratio perfectly geometrical.
Tirae is the surest eraancipator after all ; for
proof of which look not to the prospect present
ed here, but turn back on the old States. At what
period did philanthropy triuraph there ? why ex
actly at that point where interest joined issue
with its dictates ; the slave was, in fact, adraitted
as a hired labourer, when he ceased to be profit
able as a bondsman : and that day will arrive
here also, as surely as that the sun shines on

238 NEW ORLEANS.
Louisiana; and the lower valley of the Missis
sippi will yet be peopled by a free and hardy
race, born on the soil made each year more
fruitful and less pestilential, until it shall rival
the valleys of the Ganges or the Nile, if not in
the splendour of art, at least in the more solid
and enduring possessions, — education, intelli
gence, and freedom ; for only whilst so sustained
can the institutions of democracy exist; these
once failing to advance hand-in-hand with po
pulation, the whole fabric will, with inconceivable
rapidity, be resolved into a rude anarchy for some
bold mind to re-form and re-model.
One of the greatest works now in progress
here, is the canal planned to connect Lac Pont
chartrain with the city. In the month of Febru
ary it was completed to within three railes of the
lake ; and as it was a pleasant ride to the point
where the digging was in progress, I two or
three times visited the scene, after its bearings
had been explained by the two intelligent per
sons under whose guidance I first penetrated the
swamp, I only wish that the wise men at home who
coolly charge the present condition of Ireland
upon the inherent laziness of her population.

NEW ORLEANS. 239
could be transported to this spot, to look upon
the hundreds of fine fellows labouring here be
neath a sun that at this winter season was at
times insufferably fierce, and amidst a pestilen
tial swamp whose exhalations were foetid to a
degree scarcely endurable even for a few mo
ments ; wading amongst stumps of trees, mid-
deep in black mud, clearing the spaces pumped
out by powerful steam-engines ; wheeling, dig
ging, hewing, or bearing burdens it made one's
shoulders ache to look upon; exposed mean
tirae to every change of temperature, in log-
huts, laid down in the very swamp, on a founda
tion of newly-felled trees, having the water lying
stagnant between the floor-logs, whose inter
stices, together with those of the side-walls, are
open, pervious alike to sun or wind, or snow.
Here they subsist on the coarsest fare, holding
life on a tenure as uncertain as does the leader
of a forlorn hope ; excluded from all the ad
vantages of civilization ; often at the mercy of
a hard contractor, who wrings his profits from
their blood; and all this for a pittance that
merely enables them to exist, with little power to
save, or a hope beyond the continuance of the
like exertion.

240 . NEW ORLEANS.
ll
Such are the labourers I have seen here, and
have still found thera civil and courteous, with
a ready greeting for the stranger inquiring into
their condition, and a quick jest on their own
equipment, which is frequently, it must be ad
mitted, of a whimsical kind.
Here too were many poor woraen with their
husbands ; and when I conteraplated their wasted
forras and haggard sickly looks, together with
the close swarap whose stagnant air they were
dooraed to breathe, whose aspect changeless
and deathlike alone met their eyes, and fan
cied thera, in some hour of leisure, calling to
raeraory the green valley and the pure river, or
the rocky glen and sparkling brook of their dis
tant horae, with all the warmth of colouring the
imaginative spirit of the Irish peasant can so
well supply, my heart has swelled and my eyes
have filled with tears.
I cannot hope to inspire the reader with my feel
ings upon a mere sketch like this ; but if I could
set the scene of these poor labourers' exile fairly
forth, with all the sad accompaniraents detaUed ;
could I show the course of the hardy, healthy
pair, just landed, to seek fortune on these long-
sighed-for shores, with spirits newly lifted by

NEW ORLEANS. 241
hope and brighter prospects from the apathy
into which compulsory idleness and consequent
recklessness had reduced thera at home ; and
then paint the spirit-sinking felt on a first view
of the scene of their future labour, — paint the
wild revel designed to drown remembrance, and
give heart to the new-copiers ; describe the nature
of the toil where exertion is taxed to the utter
most, and the weary frame stimulated by the
worst alcohol, supplied by the contractor, at a
cheap rate for the purpose of exciting a rivalry
of exertion araongst these simple men.
Next comes disekse; either a sweeping pesti
lence that deals wholesale on its victims, or else
a gradual sinking of mind and body ; finally, the
abode in the hospital, if any comrade is interest^
ed enough for the sufferer to bear hira to it; else,
the solitary log-hut and quicker death. Could
these things with their true colours be set forth
in detail before the veriest grinder ofthe poor
that ever drove the peasant to curse and quit
the soil of his birth, he would cover his eyes
from the light of heaven, and feel that he yet
possessed a heart and human sympathy.
At such works all over this continent the Irish
are the labourers chiefly employed, and the mor-
VOL, II. R

242 NEW ORLEANS.
tality araongst them is enormous, — a mortality
I feel certain might be vastly lessened by a lit
tle consideration being given to their condition
by those who employ thera. At present they
are, where I have seen them working here, worse
lodged than the cattle of the field; in fact, the
only thought bestowed upon them appears to be,
by what expedient the greatest quantity of la
bour may be extracted from them at the cheapest
rate to ihe contractor. I think, however, that
a better spirit is in progress araongst the cora
panies requiring this class of labourers ; in fact
it becomes necessary this should be so, since,
prolific as is the country frora whence they are
drawn, the supply would in a little tirae cease
to keep pace with the demand, and slave labour
cannot be substituted to any extent, being rauch
too expensive ; a good slave costs at this tirae two
hundred pounds sterling, and to have a thousand
such swept off a line of canal in one season, would
call for prompt consideration.
Independent of interest. Christian charity and
justice should alike suggest that the labourers
ought to be provided with decent quarters,
that suflficient raedical aid should always be at
hand, and above all, that the brutalizing, accurs-

NEW ORLEANS. 243
ed practice of extorting extra labour by the sti-
raulus of corn spirit should be wholly forbidden.
Let it be remembered that, although rude and
ignorant, these men are not insensible to good
impressions, or incapable of distinguishing be
tween a kindly and paternal care of their well
doing, and the mercenary cold-blooded bargain
which exacts the last scruple of flesh it has
paid for.
I have inquired much, and have heard many
worthy, well-informed raen coraraent upon this
subject, and feelingly regret the existing system ;
but it is only by the close supervision of the Di
rectors of Public Works that this crying evil
can be effectively checked, and the condition and
character of the labourer improved,*
* That this task would not be difficult I have the best au
thority for asserting, — the experience of one of the ablest
and most honourable-minded men of this or any other
country. Captain R, S  n. Finding on the great work,
in the conducting of which he was a principal, the usual
number of riots and disputes, he, with the practical good
sense for which he is distinguished, applied himself to
discover the cause : this he generally traced up to some
real or fancied injustice complained of by the labourer,
and quickly resented by outrage on his part. He next
personally interfered, heard patiently, decided fairly, and
in a kind manner made clear the ground of every decision
R 2

244 NEW ORLEANS.
At present the priest is the only stay and com
fort of these raen ; the occasional presence of the
minister of God alone reminds thera that they
are not forgotten of their kind : and but for
this interference, they would grow in a short
tirae wholly abandoned and becorae uncontrol
lable ; unfortunately of these raen, who consci
entiously fulfil their holy functions, there are but
too few, — the cliraate, and fatigue soon incapaci
tates all but the very robust. Those who follow
the rainistry of God in the swamp and in the
forest raust have cast the pride of flesh indeed
out frora them, since they brave the martyr's
fate without a raartyr's triumph.
If a few of our goodly Cheltenham Parsons, the
non-resident gentlemen, who so laudably desire
to uphold their church, were to come here, they
for or against the labourers. In a short time he by this
course completely won the confidence of these poor fel
lows, and not another riot occurred. In his absence even,
however prolonged, any dispute growing to violence was
quieted in a moment by one of the elders suggesting that
they should wait quietly till the Captain came home.
No decision, however, against their views was ever ob
jected to; and it was most gratifying to me to hear Cap
tain S  n assert that he had never met with any class
of men whose regard for even-handed justice appeared so
strong as that of these poor Irish labourers.

NEW ORLEANS. 245
would find araple employment for their leisure,
and might make hosts of converts ; for courage
and kindliness of heart are irresistible in appeal ;
and it is on these foundations, whether amongst
the bogs and mountains of Ireland, or in the wil
derness of America, that the Catholic priest of
our days has built the unirapeachable influence
he exercises over his people.
The gloomy picture of the labourer's condi
tion, which my raention of this canal has drawn
frora rae, raay by some be considered overcharg
ed ; but I protest I have, on the contrary, with
held details of suffering from heat, and cold, and
sickness, which my heart at this raoraent aches
when I recall.
To return to the canal. It in all probability
will never be used for the purpose designed,
even when corapleted ; it was, in fact, the bonus
proffered to the legislature by a bank which re-
quired^a certain charter ; it will, at least, answer
the purpose of a great drain,, and so far raust
prove of inflnite local importance, the raore espe
cially since it is in contemplation to redeem the
whole of the surrounding swamp, — a measure
that, if effectually carried out, will probably
render New Orleans as healthy as any city south
of the Potomac,

246 NEW ORLEAN^.
The police of this place I should imagine at
presant better than in the Northern cities, since
noise or disturbance in the streets is a thing
unknown, and after ten at night everything is
usually still and quiet, excepting upon the Le
vee, where work at this season appears to go
on by night as by day.

247

THE LEVEE MARKET.
Viewed at an early hour, the large market
place on the Levee is a lounge of a most
amusing kind, exhibiting at one glance a more
striking picture of the variety of people to be
found here than raight be attained in any
other place.
Here may be seen the Spanish creole, cloaked
and capped, followed by a half-naked slave, mak
ing, with a grave quiet air, and in slow delibe
rate speech, his frugal market. Bustling along
directly in his wake, but with frequent halts
and crossings from side to side, coraes a lively
daughter of France, her market-slave leading a
little boy fancifully dressed a la hussarde; with
these she holds a running fire of chatter, only
interrupted by salutations to passing friends, or
nods and smiles to those more distant. Look
yet a little longer, and, yawing along in squads
of three and four abreast, you will see sailorsj pf

248 THE LEEVE MARKET.
all kinds cheapening fruit and vegetables, toge
ther with cooks, stewards, and all their dingy
^bordinates. Here is the up-looking, dare-devil
Jack of Old England ; the clean, holiday-looking,
well-dressed seaman of Marseilles, with large gold
ear-rings twinkling beneath tbe rim of his high-
crowned bright glazed hat. Next, moving steal
thily by, with an uneasy, restless look, notice a
couple of low-built, light-limbed, swarthy fel
lows, raoustached and bearded, one wearing a
red shirt and a broad-leafed Panama hat, the
other clad in a white blouse with a scarlet worst
ed sash drawn about his hips, a Montero cap,
naked legs, and white canvass slippers.
These fellows might, on the high seas, be easily
mistaken for pirates ; here they are understood
to belong to some one of the many snaky schoon
ers lying here, hailing frora Havannah and the
various ports along the Mexican Gulf, and whose
calling may be honest enough, but which certain
ly look as though the necessity of stowing a car
go had been quite overlooked in their building.
Meantirae, circling about the outside of the
building, stroll a band of twenty or thirty In
dians, dressed in all the picturesque, draggled
finery it is their delight to exhibit ; the raen
half drunk or wholly so, thrusting, as they

THE LEVEE MARKET. 249
pass, their filthy fingers into the negro girls'
baskets, and hiccuping forth some inquiry, to
be repulsed by a monosyllable or a look 9i
contempt and anger, the sight of which excites
sorrow that any creature wearing the form of
humanity should be fallen so low as to be subject
to it. The squaws are never seen in this brutal
condition ; they crawl about with a load of light
wood at their hacks, or, having disposed of their
venture, may be seen seated on their heels, tell
ing their beads, or puUing their fingers through
their thick black hair, that, if kept clean, would
be beautiful, or in some other way tricking forth
their charms to all advantage ; for, though gene
rally as ugly as sin, they are as full of coquetry
as any belle of May-fair, and as vain of admira
tion ; of the which, to say truth, they appear to
come in for raore than a share frora our tars, two
or three of whora raay usually be seen lounging
alongside the youngest of the native group, look
ing things they know not how to utter.
In this raarket of the Levee there is also an
abundant display of fish, flesh, and fowl, with as
varied a store of earth's fruits as any one place
can produc,e. In the month of February we
bad here peas, lettuces, beans of several kinds,
kale, celery, pine-apples, bananas, oranges, limes.

250 THE LEVEE MARKET.
lemons, with sweet potatoes and edibles of various
other kinds whose names were strange to me.
'"' The beef here is, in appearance, inferior to
that of the North, although fed on the finest
pastures in nature, — those of the Ohio and Ken
tucky, but injured by the neglect and ill feeding
consequent upon a voyage of ten or twelve hun
dred miles in a crowded steara-boat.
The Creole rautton, I should say, is equal tO
the best in this country, being small-boned,
sweet, and very fat. The great disadvantage
the artiste labours under is the not being able
to keep the raeat long enough to becorae quite
tender ; such is this cliraate that decoraposition
follows quickly on death, and here the raan is
buried or the mutton eaten without waiting until
either becomes cold.
The Place d' Armes, near this market, is a
large square, having an area enclosed with rails
in the centre : here the Indians usually congre
gate, and within this a curious-looking group or
two may coramonly be found. To see the tribe at
toilet is not a little arausing : some hair-hunting,
catching and cracking this garae, with a keen
sporting look and an obvious relish of the pursuit
quite varmint ; others mixing red or white paint

THE LEVEE MARKET. 251
for the adornment of the nosje, cheek, or eye, as
custora or taste raay decide.
I could not rightly discover whether these
raarks were siraply directed by caprice, and as
suraed or laid aside at pleasure, or whether they
were worn in corapliance with sorae iraperative
custora, and having a translatable raeaning, as
sorae historians assert. Certain is it that I have
noticed a little Choctaw belle, with whora I had
established a sort of eye-flirtation of raany
days' standing; on one raorning appealing to
my taste by an insinuating streak of white lead
over each of her bright eyes ; on the next,
giving my heart a stab from under a crirason
half-moon; and on the third, kiUing me quite
by a broadside frora each chubby cheek, the
right having at me with a ball of flery red, the
left exhibiting one of jet black.
The costume of these people, when divested
of the eternal filthy blanket, is showy, and
at times even becoming, and pleasing ; bright
colours, fringes, tags, beads, and feathers of the
ostrich, parroquet, and eagle, constituted the
raw raaterial which the taste natural to the
sex, and the love of finery inherent in the squaw,
has to work upon.

252

JOURNAL RESUMED.
Monday, March 16th. — During the last three
days the weather has been warra, but not oppres
sively so : last evening a light shower of rain
was foUowed by a lovely night; I ara leading
a dissipated life here, and engaged for every day
I can yet count upon — ^raust prepare for flight
frora this Capua, but how ? that 's the question !
since up the Mississippi I won't steara again,
that 's poz !
Visited a noble packet called the Shakspeare,
in which I feel hugely terapted to take passage>
although by the route newly opened through
Florida there is greater certainty, albeit with a
good deal of hard work to calculate upon.
17th. — St. Phaudrig's day. Engaged to dine
with the sons ofthe saint. Rain falling in tor
rents, no stirring out; by the afternoon a de
luge threatens us, the streets are turned to rivers,
and our neighbour swarap is becorae a lake, above
which the naked cypress-trees, hung with their
sombre drapery of raoss, tower like the raasts of

JOURNAL. 253
some goodly navy whose hulls lie sunk' beneath.
Boats will soon be required, for every gutter is
become a branch of mother Mississippi.
About three o'clock p. m. it subsided a little,
and we were able to get through in a well-horsed
carriage to the French Theatre, in the ball-room
of which our rendezvous was appointed, dinner
being laid in another of the suite of apartments
appropriated to public- purposes. We mustered
afbout a hundred strong, and a more creditable
set of children no saint ever had to his back.
About midnight the party broke up, and, despite
the rain, the shamrog had never presided over a
gayer table.
18th. — A glorious morning; paid ray visits,
made adieus; and after, rode out to the lake by
the canal and Bayou St. John. But what a change
had taken place since ray last ride here, just
three days back ! then all was torpid, decayed,
and dead; the forest was voiceless, and the waters
oily and stagnant as though never intended for
the use of living thing. On this day all nature
appears awakened, as if by raagic, and vegeta
tion actually seeras to proceed before our eyes;
in every dyke the water-snakes are gliding about
with their graceful crests reared above the sur-

254 JOURNAL.
face, and on lake and lagoon bask shoals of
mullet, rejoicing in the warm waters of the
swamp. The lazy alligator is dragging him
self across the path, newly roused frora his
winter lair. The cardinal, the raocking-bird, and
the gaudy red-bird, are all darting to and fro,
in pursuit of the various insects that flutter about
the air. The very swarap is putting on a face of
beauty, and all nature appears to hail the arrival
of spring. Never was change so coraplete, so
sudden, and so attractive.
Returning, halted by a camp of Choctaws,
consisting of a dozen huts, about which crawl
ed or ran as raany children of all ages, look
ing reraarkably healthy and well-forraed. In a
hut, larger and better made than any other,
sat the chief and his squaw, upon whose lap
lay numberless strings of blue and white beads,
which she was admiring and arranging with as
much delight as a London girl would her first
suite of pearl.
The chief himself was a stout, honest-faced
fellow, and I suppose an active hunter, for the
sides of the hut, which was open in front, were
hung with various skins, and the earth was
closely carpeted with the like trophies : seve-

JOURNAL. 255
ral clean-looking baskets were hanging about
the back of the hut ; over the fire, in front, was
suspended an iron pot, and to attend to this
seemed the present business of the chief.
This was a portion of a tribe or nation, once
very powerful and numerous in the South ; it is
now, however, scattered and broken up ; many
families under their several chiefs have depart
ed for the Western wilderness, many more for
the tomb. They begged for money as the
natives usuaUy do, but receive with equal in
difference the coin or a refusal.
Fiiday, 20th. — The ship Shakspeare, accord
ing to the owners' proraise, was to sail this day,
but sail she did not. Passed an uncomfortable
morning from being kept the best part of it in
uncertainty. Alraost wish I had proceeded two
days ago by the route through Florida. H — — s
gravely assures rae it is all for the best, and
J. H  n coolly echoes his philosophy, al
though both one and the other of the viUains
are 'f as hot Jacks " in their mood " as any iri
all Italy." Day very sultry, or, as a countryraan
of raine here, calls this sort of rauggy heat,
" Vile raucilaginous weather."
21*^ — Again a delay, and a put-off till to-

256 JOURNAL.
morrow ; three of our passengers now deserted^
taking the steamer up the river for LouisviUe ;
was half tempted to follow their example, but
don't like to cut my Shakspeare. I verily think,
were the ship called by any other narae, I would
quit the raess. The bard was wrong when he
made Juliet say " what 's in a name ?"
The city is hot and humid, as though it were
washing-day above, and the sun's rays inter
cepted by wet blankets. In the evening, strong
symptoms of a refreshing thunder burst : sat till
after midnight sans coat or cravat, striving to
keep cool; about that tirae. the rain began to
descend, and soon after up carae a breeze, under
whose influence I crept beneath ray musquito
curtain to fall sound asleep in flve minutes.
Sunday. — Called up early. Shakspeare about to
quit the Levee : find out that I have slept through
a regular tornado, for to that coraplexion ara I
inforraed the night breeze carae at last. Day
clear, fresh, and pure, like a fine June morning
at home ; a difference of twenty-eight degrees
between to-day and yesterday ; got a hasty break
fast, and learned that the wind "sits in the shoul
der of our sail," or rather of our steam, since
under such convoy do we seek the sea.

JOURNAL. 257
At eight A, M, got on to the Levee, and found
the Shakspeare already linked to her fiery mate ;
bade farewell to the many friends who have daily
attended to add a last link to the chain of kind re
collections in which they have bound ray memory.
The market, close by which we lay, was, be
ing Sunday morning, crowded by a chequered
assemblage of European, Quadroon, Negro, and
Indian, all gabbling, pushing, and purchasing in
company. We unmoored in very capital style,
though pretty closely jammed, for a ship of seven
hundred tons, and in one minute after were whirl
ed into the mid current of the Mississippi : the
vast crescent of the water-front of the city show
ing through a curtain of thick masts, the hulls
belonging to which floated level with the roofs of
the highest houses : for the river, at this period,
ran in its course far raised above the city.
The wind blows hard, but a clearer or more
bracing day heart could not desire ; and, con
trasted with the horrid yesterday, it is indeed
most welcorae.
We found some difficulty, owing to the vio
lence of the breeze, in getting into that extra
ordinary bend called the " English turn ;" but
afterwards we rushed past the fine sugar planta-
voL. n. s

258 JOURNAL.
tions lying along our course with great velocity :
we had a powerful steam-boat, and wind and
current with us.
About sunset passed Fort Jackson, occupying
a well-selected bend of the river, and com
manding a long reach either way. This is one
of the works projected and finished by French
engineers, and is said to be of a first-rate de
scription. Shortly after passing this fort, a sight of un
paralleled grandeur broke upon us. The west
ern horizon was yet ruddy with the last light
of sunset, and was attracting my attention, con
trasted as it was with the dull stream and
dismal jungle around us. Suddenly I observed
a bright flame rush, as it were, over the distant
surface of the swamp : at the same moment we
opened a noble reach of the river, and a vast
fire was perceived, steadily advancing over the
prairie land on our left, which character of
surface is continued frora here to the Balize,
covered by a rank growth of lofty cane or reeds.
As night drew on, the fire seeraed to gather
greater strength, rolling away to leeward a
mighty ocean of flarae ; whilst nearer to us
lines might be observed creeping close to the

JOURNAL. 259
earth, devouring the dry grass, and marching
right in the teeth of the wind, sheltered by
the tall cane next dooraed to fall.
Whilst viewed far off, the effect was exactly
that of a great city delivered to the flaraes :
the trees growing by the river's brink, and scat
tered here and there over the prairie, show
ed like sorae yet standing spires, whilst here
and there a tall cedar raight be caught just
falling ; the dwarf trees and withered shrubs in
front, with the flames quivering through their
branches, raight readily be imagined a rem
nant of the population fleeing from the de
struction pressing on their rear, with the sul
len Mississippi for their only refuge.
We overtook and sailed down, side by side,
with this mighty conflagration for an hour or
more, through water made bright by the fiery
reflection : at last, we outstripped its speed,
but, for three hours after, I never withdrew ray
eyes frora this the grandest sight it ever was
given to rae to contemplate ; nor was the effect
at all diminished though changed by distance.
At one turn of our course we were presented
with a coup d'ceil of fearful grandeur ; it seem
ed as though the flame had crossed the broad
s 2

260 JOURNAL,
river, and formed a half circle, whose left ex
tremity was lost in distance, and whose right
pursued our path, rolling after us a lofty wall
of fire, from behind which burst wreaths of
smoke, of different degrees of darkness, as
though shot up from some volcano's crater,
whilst the more distant masses formed gra
dually into clouds of snow, whose lower edges
were tinged with mingled lines of gold and jet.
The wind blew half a gale at about N, N. W.,
and it was calculated that our pace could not
be less than twelve miles per hour ; that of the
fire, therefore, must have been seven or eight,
since, despite the turns of the river, we were
closely followed by it for three hours, and very
soon after we anchored at the Balize it again
overtook us, rushing on unchecked whilst it
found a supply of food, until extinguished in
the waters of the gulf
I had before seen the prairie on fire, that is,
small districts of mere dry grass in a blaze ; but,
although striking frora its novelty, it had none
of the grandeur belonging to this wild confla
gration. The fuel here offered to the flarae was
of an enduring quality, and continued to burn
a fiery red after the first rush of flame had pass-

JOURNAL. 261
ed over it and onward; and the next change
it assuraed was one of singular beauty : the re
flection of the burnt cane, yet standing in per
fect order as it grew, only raade transparent
by the action of fire, had the appearance of
the harvest of an Eastern tale, composed of
grain whose tall stalks were of burnished gold;
whereas on the grass of the wide prairies the
effect of the flre is lost as soon as passed, the
bare and blackened soil alone being left be
hind. We arrived at the bar by 10 p.m. and let go
an anchor for the night : the water reported by
our pilot to be about eleven feet ; a corafortable
hearing, when it is considered that the Shak
speare draws fourteen.
There is now here, hard and fast, an English
ship called the Coromandel, which has been on
the bar for the last forty days. Several vessels
intend pushing over, we understand, at the same
time we do in the raorning.
Monday, 2Srd. — On deck at six a.m. Our pilot,
I find, declines crossing till the afternoon, when
the tide will possibly, he says, be higher; the
rise of water is, however, dependent upon the
strength of the sea-breeze forcing the tide of the

262 JOURNAL.
gulf up against the current of the great river.
No rise of the Mississippi above, however high,
affects the bar here in the least perceptible
degree. Heaven send us well into blue water ! fpr any
place having a more desolate aspect than this
sight never lighted on : not a sign of vegetation
is visible, except the brown rank-growing reeds
upon our right, where no fire has yet been.
To the north, all is blackness on land, and
dull and dead at sea : along the course of the
water-line, logs of timber of every size, and
trees of every kind, lie strewn, soraetiraes scat
tered singly, and in other places accumulated
into enormous beds or rafts. •
On every side is presented a dead level,
muddy Water, or land barely showing above it.
One might have imagined, looking around here,
that the great Deluge was but now subsiding, and
this, the ruined world, left for the remnant of
huraanity, gathered here, to weep over. Silence
and solitude reigned absolute, and the only evi
dence of our not being alone was to be found in
the three or four ships scattered within sight.
As the raorning advanced, each ship hoisted
the colours of her nation: several schooners

JOURNAL. 263
came down near us, tugged along by a powerful
steamer ; the Mexican and Brazilian flags were
amongst them.
I flnd, too, that even this just redeemed soil is
tenanted ; here are eyes that find in it the charms
of home. A couple of natives came alongside,
with a boat-load of fine oysters; viewing them
as samples, I should imagine the air not over
salubrious at the Balize, for they were miserable-
looking, blighted beings, "but half raade up,"
and shook like aspen-leaves in the sharp air of
morning. About two P.M. the pet steamers of the bar,
the Pilot and the Grampus, ran down to us, and
made fast to the ship's sides : away we went for
a dash at the pass, the object being to force
a ship drawing nearly fifteen feet over a bar
having upon its ridge just twelve feet.
We soon grounded, as was anticipated ; when,
after a couple of hours' tugging, we were left by
our steamers, although one of their skippers had
sworn stoutly in the morning that he never had
quitted a ship on the bar, and never would.
Three vessels that had got under weigh in cora
pany with the Shakspeare were set fast about
a hundred yards farther over than ourselves, and

264 JOURNAL.
now lay right a-beara of the Cororaandel draw
ing seventeen feet : when she will forge over is
past all calculation ; our own chance of a speedy
move does not appear to rae very bright.
All day set firm, a little movement perceptible
at night : contemplate returning to New Orleans
if a boat goes up to morrow.
Mem. — Never go by sea if in any haste,
however tempting the prospect : just one week
lost to-day, in addition to much vexation of
spirit. To complete the discomfort of our condition,
the weather is raw and cold ; clouds above, mud
and raisery below and about.
Tuesday, 24^A. — Ship forging ahead slowly.
At meridian the Spanish ship got away, and, in
an hour after her, over slid the bark, leaving us
gazing after them with longing eyes.
About six P.M. the Shakspeare took a long
slide, just clearing the bowsprit of the Coroman
del. Breeze getting up from S. S. E. a little sea
coming in. Our pilot, it seeras, does not know
when the tide is at its highest, but thinking we
might slide over suddenly in the night, this effi
cient person now quitted us, taking to our larger
neighbour, whose chance, I ara sorry to say.

JOURNAL. 265
does not seera great of a hasty removal. She lies
nearly on her beam-ends, with very little motion,
thirteen feet water under her bowsprit end.
After amusing myself all day taking different
bearings, and calculating each inch we raade,
got disgusted at last, and about midnight crept
into bed, praying Heaven henceforward to be
kept clear of all bars, from this of the Balize to
the bar of the Old Bailey ; although I do think, if
I had a choice, I should prefer being arraigned
for highway-robbery, or any other gentlemanlike
felony, at the latter, to the being kept for a
month weltering in mud upon the former.
Wednesday, 25th. — Prospect a little brighter,
a swell setting in from the eastward ; the ship
evidently working over, as we now have sixteen
feet water within half our length ahead : day
mild and clear, with a south-easterly breeze : all
the passengers busy noting our snail-like pro
gress : the poor Coromandel, which is fixed as
a rock, affords us an excellent land-mark ; we
have slipped by her inch by inch. At three
o'clock p. M. the ship's bow is all alive, the heel
alone hangs on the ridge : a French brig is just
taking the bar, and rapidly nears us. At four
P.M., just as the Frenchman came abreast of us.

266 JOURNAL.
and her crew raised a cheer, the Shakspeare
launched forward, as though just sent frora the
stocks; and, as all hands of us were on deck,
with the poop and forecastle both well raanned,
we gave forth an involuntary hurrah, in which
the crew of the Cororaandel, who were all for
ward watching the result, heartily joined: the
cheer of the dashing little Frenchman was in
this way fairly drowned.
Our captain seems a smart hand ; he had his
sails trimmed, and the Shakspeare heading sea
ward, in less than no time: nor was it long
before we reached the boundary line of the great
river. At some six or seven miles from the bar
a well-defined line is observable, stretching away
north and south, with a regular curve outward.
On all sides within this arch the water is thick
and muddy, and immediately without this is the
clear deep blue of the gulf j yet the influence of
the current of the Mississippi is sensibly felt full
seventy railes to the southward, its strength be
ing found to set in that direction.
Our breeze freshened gradually all the even
ing, until by raidnight it blew a rattler ; but,
thank Heaven, we are clear of the mud ; no
more lead-lines bandying about the decks.

JOURNAL. 267
Friday, 27th. — How time flies ! and yet how
same has been my existence since this day week,
— five days of expectation, with but two of action ;
yet the fifty- secondth part of the year is away
scarce marked ! One is here actually compelled
to turn back to the date of one's last mem. and
look what day one has fallen on, so hard is it to
keep note of time without occupation, or the
remembrancers that surround us in our daily
affairs on shore. I do not wonder at Crusoe
notching his stick ; the wonder is, that he
should have been able to decide whether or no
to-day was yesterday.
All is calm and fixed abpve, with a long east
erly swell rolling under our foot, which does not
seem likely to subside, although, as our captain
inforras me, unusual at this time of year. Large
logs of blackened tiraber drift about, reminding
us of the great river within whose infiuence we
yet unhappily remain, although but twenty hours
of fair wind would lead us round the Tortugas,
within the influence of the gulf-stream. Employ
ed all ray morning shooting at bottles as empty
as myself ; this, with eating, drinking, and ecartS,
forms the amusement and occupation of the day.
I have heard of people who cpuld read and write

268 JOURNAL.
on ship-board ; but, for rayself, protest I never
could do either with the least possible satis
faction. Last night the Connecticut stearaer passed
close by us, bound for Havannah ; I could not
help wishing she had been corapelled to give
Billy Shakspeare a pull.
Whilst at whist in the night, a passenger was
reported dead of cholera. " Well," said our
chief, " if he's dead, we raust bury him, that's
all." It was an old man, whose only daughter,
with her husband and child, were on board ; and
the report is, that he has been grossly neglected
by this pair, having been very well when re
ceived. Saturday, 28th. — Seven a.m. ; went upon deck,
and was delighted to find stun-sails on both sides,
a clear blue sky above, reflected on a sea of the
same colour, only crested with wreaths of snowy
whiteness : wind about west by north. What an
instantaneous elasticity does the spirit gather up
from a change like this ! I had quitted my room
despondingly, having slept sound and hearing
no indications of a breeze ; the dull heavy creak
of the bulk-heads alone spoke of motion ; when,
on gaining the poop-deck, a fair, free breeze.

JOURNAL. 269
and an atmosphere filled with life and vigour,
awaited to be hailed.
Our dead passenger was uppermost in ray
raind, and I raade inquiry of the officer of the
watch respecting' the hour appointed for commit
ting the corpse to the sea, until that time when
Judgment might claim its own from the deep
caves of ocean. I found, however, that the old
man was in no way prepared to avail himself of
this day's sunshine 'for his dark journey, being,
on the contrary, alive if not merry.
It appears that, whilst busied about the last
oflfices offered by the living to the dead, signs
of life had been discovered by his attendants,
and the expiring flarae gently reinvigorated by
judicious friction and brandy and water, the
old raan's ancient bane, and now his antidote.
I hastened to see this dead-alive, and found
him perfectly conscious of his restoration to
"this breathing world;" but I imagine the
respite can only be for a very limited period.
Captain Collins had the jolly-boat fltted up for
him on the main-deck, and, when placed in it on
a clean comfortable bed, his pulse was barely
perceptible ; his eye was glazed and dim, and
his frarae emaciated to a degree that was painful

270 JOURNAL.
to contemplate. The daughter is a fair-haired
devil of two-and-twenty, tall and hearty, but
exhibits a callous want of feeling and a disre
gard of opinion, seldom raet with in the raost
ruffianly of our sex, and truly shocking in a
woman. The father, I learn, is from the state of New
Jersey, where he possesses a good farra, and
flocks and herds, to which this Goneril will
succeed on his demise; hence it is that she
looks upon his nurses with no love or gratitude.
The poor old man, in hopes of augmenting her
store, had quitted his pleasant possessions in
Jersey, to seek wealth araongst the swamps of
the Mississippi. How long, I wonder, will the
fluttering soul, evidently plumed and eager for
its flight, be held within the frail, worn-out
prison-house ? Its flight ! — but whither and to
what ? " Ay, there's the rub !" the riddle,
which this poor wretch will probably solve be
fore the wisest living philosopher could build
a single conjecture towards it.
Last night it appears the calf got loose in the
stall, and joyfully helped itself to the food sup
plied by nature to the raother for its sustenance ;
in consequence, we, for this morning, are rainus

JOURNAL. 271
milk for breakfast. With a decision prorapt and
unanimous, this act was voted a robbery, the
calf a felon, and the award death without delay.
No counsel was called for the hungry youngster,
nor a voice heard in Nature's behalf; the ab
sence of the customary supply of milk was con
sidered evidence conclusive and damnatory ; the
hearts of judge and jurors were superseded by
their appetites, and doubtless the criminal calf
raust die the death.
All day our fine wind follows us ; the sun is
hot ; we have an awning spread over the whole
of the noble poop-deck, and within its shade we
lounge or lie about in the raost perfect luxury of
idleness, whilst the Shakspeare majestically moves
forward on her course, with just motion enough
to be pleasant.
Sunday, 29th. — This raorning we found our
table abundantly supplied with railk ; which,
together with a burnt-offering of the inconside
rate calf's liver, bore undoubted evidence of the
steward's prompt execution of the court's de
cree. Thinking it a pity such an example of
strict justice should be lost to the world, I have,
as far as this record goes, done my utmost to
preserve it. Wind still abaft the beam, blowing

272 JOURNAL,
a steady, constant sort of blow; sun cheerful,
and sea all alive. About meridian a shore-bird,
rather like a woodcock, but considerably larger,
carae fluttering round the ship, evidently wea
ried by long flight, yet fearing to confide in our
hospitality ; and not without reason, faith ! for
one of our passengers gave me notice of the
stranger, and gravely requested rae to shoot it.
I said nothing; but the ship and cargo could
not have bribed me to raise a barrel against that
timid, storm-worn, ' home-sick bird : no, if he
would trust in me, he should have rest and food,
and so fly back to his lone mistress rejoicing.
Our old man breathes still, but shows little
disposition to raake an effectual rally against
the foe : for the rest, crew and passengers, all
are well. A nuraber of Irish lads occupy the be-
tween-decks : they have a fiddle araongst them,
and " welt the flure" on the forecastle, every
night, with a perseverance that is most amusing.
Thursday, April 2nd. — Since the 28th ult.,
light west and south-westerly winds, with warm
balmy days. This morning we lost one of our
crew overboard, an exceedingly pretty parroquet
I had purchased at New Orleans : it was an
amusing, active little creature, and on several

JOURNAL. 273
occasions had crept through the bars of its cage,
and slily gone up the rigging, whence it had,
after a time, descended of itself, or had been
brought down by one of the boys : but frequent
peril incurred with impunity breeds presump
tion, and towering ambition knows no safe halt
ing-place ; so my poor, pretty Poll, on each new
climb, gained a raore giddy and more dangerous
elevation, until on this day, attracted by her
usual scream of exultation, I cast ray eyes up
wards in search of her, and quickly made her
out, strutting to the weather-end of the royal
yard-arm, the loftiest perch in the ship.
I augured ill of the attempt, and was watch
ing her movements, when, either impelled by an
innate love of liberty, or lured by sorae fragrant
odour borne on the air from the distant woods
of Florida, she made a bold flight in the di
rection of the land, and fell into the sea a little
distance a-head of the ship.
Poll was a favourite, and Captain Collins a
kind-hearted man : the Shakspeare was brought
by the wind, and various efforts made to near
the silly bird ; but all in vain : we went rapidly
past her, and left her to the fate her presumption
had courted. The efforts the little creature
VOL. II. T

274 JOURNAL.
made to approach the vessel were incessant, and
almost painful to regard: from the instant she
touched the waves, her head was kept to the
ship, which she strove to regain by flapping
along the surface with her maimed short-clipped
pinions. I felt that I could have saved her ;
and only for shame, and the great trouble it
would have necessarily caused, I should assuredly
have slipped over the side after the miserable
little fool.
Our fair wind sticks, to us, and the gulf-stream
is calculated to be from three to three miles and
a half in our favour ; so that we are making
short work of it. All alive and well,
Tuesday, 7th. — We last night got inside the
Hook, but were blown off, not being able to get
a pilot. We are now thrashing at it with a bit
ter head-wind. A great number of ships of all
kinds are beating through the bay, as well as
numbers coraing out with it all their own way.
The Shakspeare proves worthy the name, as she
weathers and goes a-head of every craft beating
with us. A very smart ship, called the " Wash
ington Irvine," held our BiUy a stout tug, but,
after reading the name as she went about a-head
of us for many turns, we at last crawled to wind-

JOURNAL. 273
ward, and Shakspeare took the lead, as even the
" Washington Irvine" raust adrait was perfectly
proper. At the quarantine station we landed our sick
passenger, and were permitted to proceed. By
four P.M. I once more set my foot on the dock-side
of New York, after an absence of five raonths,
and felt as though I had again reached home.
Let me here remark, that during these five
months I had travelled through the roughest
part ofthese States in every sort of conveyance,
and had been thrown araongst all classes of the
coramunity, yet never received one rude word
or encountered an inconvenience, save those in
separable from the condition of the roadsi Even
the Southern mail, the discomforts of which I
have painted exactly as I expelrienced them, I
must in fairness admit is well managed, when
the difficulties to be encountered at the season
of my journey are justly taken into considera
tion. Their object is to get on; this, as long
as possible, at any risk, they are bound to do.
It will be seen that, when a coach cannot be
dragged through, they nail a few boards on the
axle, and proceed with this lighter and less
tickUsh vehicle : it is true the passengers suffer
T 2

276 JOURNAL.
much; but only those exceedingly desirous to
proceed travel at such tiraes, and without such
a resort the machinery must stand still.
Out of our party two stout men gave in at dif
ferent stages ; and another, when I quitted Ame
rica, had not recovered from the effects of ex
posure to wet, loss of rest, and fatigue.
The journey ought not, in ray mind, to be un
dertaken by any man who regards his ease, after
the raonth of November or before the month of
May. A new route is, however, already in use
by coach and steara-boat across Florida : a rail
road is also in conteraplation by the same line,
which, connected with the present ready raeans
of gaining Charleston, will probably, in a season
or so, raake the coraraunication with Mobile and
New Orleans a trip of little inconvenience.
Still I consider that a near view of the border
parts of Georgia and Alabama, together with a
sail down the noble river of that name, water
ing, as it does, the richest lands in the world,
and destined, as it evidently is, to sustain a vast
population on its banks, ought not to be neg
lected by any man whose motives for travel have
any highei? aim than mere amusement. For ray
self, I would not have raissed the contemplation

JOURNAL. 277
of this truly elementary society, and the abso
lute novelty it presents, for thrice the inconve
niences it was my fortune, during an uncommon
series of bad weather, to encounter.

278

NEW YORK.
I PASSED the next two raonths between this
city and Philadelphia, taking leave of the au
dience of the latter city on Saturday, May the
9th, attended by deraonstrations of the kindest
and most flattering regard. The next week I
idled between Princeton and New York. The
Artists' Exhibition was at this time open here,
and it afforded me genuine pleasure to see many
pictures that were good, and nurabers of early
atterapts of a highly proraising character.
I also visited an exhibition of pictures which
had been proffered to Congress at the sum of
forty thousand dollars, in order that this col
lection might form the foundation of a great
national gallery ; a worthy object, and of which
these pictures would have forraed a right-be
coming coraraenceraent.
Here were specimens, and worthy ones, of
raany raasters ; amongst others a Murillo, indis-

NEW YORK. 279
putably genuine, and, although a little faded in
colour, still worth a wUderness of most other pro
ductions. The subject was a painful one too,
being the agony of Christ on the Mount of Olives.
Never, surely, was the utter prostration of
flesh and soul so speakingly made out ; bitter
indeed must the cup have been so painfully
contemplated by one so meek, so patient of
suffering ; Omniscience only, being so entreated,
could yet have held it to the sufferer's pallid
lips, or conteraplated with a fixed purpose the
sorrowing eyes iraploringly cast upwards.
Before the kneeling Christ, — the worn and
wasted man, — there floated an angel worthy
of the dying Psalmist's imagining, so unearthly,
so ethereal! What a full heart must the in
spired painter have had as in his raind's eye
he purely shadowed forth this most perfect con
ception of one of those who hold companionship
with God ! It was made up of all the rarest
traits of beauty, yet its loveliness was not of the
world : the veriest dullard looking on it would
have paused in admiration ; the most brutal
have gazed into those pure eyes, untainted by
one earthly feeling, one sinful thought, or ira-
pure desire. On my mind the effect was thril-

280 NEW YORK,
ling : I have pictured to rayself angels as poets
have described thera, and have often before
looked upon them such as they have been con
ceived by Angelo, Correggio, and other master
spirits araongst men, and have seen faces of
theirs on which I could have looked unsatiated
again and again, and forms I could have loved
with all ray heart ; but never beheld an eraa-
nation of the Spirit of God, a thing only to be
gazed on holily and worshipped humbly, until I
met with this angel of Murillo's.
Were I Pope, the painter should be canon
ized as one visibly inspired from heaven, and
on whose visions angels must have waited, since
earth never could have supplied from its fairest
a model for such expression as he has here given
to the comforter of that heart-broken Christ.
It is worth living virtuously, to die in the hope of
such companionship hereafter, and for all eternity.
After having been for two years deprived of the
pleasure an enthusiast derives from the painter's
art, the raere conteraplation of such a picture
elevates and refines one's spirit ; the world and
worldly feelings are forgot, and for a moraent the
soul breathes freely within its earthly prison.
Here were three pictures of Sir Joshua Rey-

NEW YORK. • 281
nolds ; one a group Of the Clive family, including
the native Ayah holding a little girl on a chair.
This Indian nurse is painted to the life, grace
ful, aniraated, and devoted ; only for the differ
ence of coraplexion, one might imagine the de
licate girl she looks on with such tender pride
her own, and not the offspring of the cold white
woman whose eyes are fixed on you as she stands
vis-d-vis to her stiff lord, who is dressed in a
rappee-coloured habit richly overlaid with gold.
This picture raight very well be described as
a fancy subject, and designated Nature and Art.
Opposite this fine picture of our English master
hung another group, by Rembrandt ; making up
in force and colour what it lacked in delicacy
and refineraent. The subject was the De Witt
family; and each portrait wore that genuine
starap of truth that left no question of their
reserablance to the Dutch originals.
There were some sea-pieces by Backhuysen, and
one by Vanderveldt; several excellent landscapes ;
a couple of gallery pictures worthy a place in
the Pitti, together with Danby's Opening of the
Sixth Seal. All together, in fact, this was a col
lection of no mean pretensions, which would have
.been an exceedingly creditable foundation on

282 NEW YORK.
which to have raised a national gallery. The
sum which it was required Congress should appro
priate to the purchase was forty thousand dol
lars ; and considering how that assembly is con
stituted, how little most of its members know or
care about pictures, or of their intrinsic value,
and how utterly unimbued they are with any con
ception of the raoral worth of art to a young
nation, I conceive it very creditable to the body
that the motion was negatived by only two votes.
How could a raeraber frora Illinois or Missis
sippi have justified such an item in the budget to
his constituents ? I can fancy a group of good
Jackson men, after reading of an appropriation
of forty thousand dollars for the purchase of
twenty pictures, raising their admiring eyes to a
portrait of the General swinging from the sign
post, for the painting of which, with a horse's
head into the bargain, the tavern-keeper. Major
Jones, had paid no cent raore than fifteen dol
lars ; and then coming back on the corrupt
motives which could induce a vote of a couple
of thousand a-piece for pictures " that could not
by any natural means be liker nature, or more
handsomely done, nohow, by any foreigner that
ever fisted a paint-brush."

NEW YORK. 283
The attempting Congress was, in truth, a
mistake ; but I cannot help thinking that, had a
subscription been opened in either of the great
Northern cities, or in New Orleans, for the pur
pose of founding a State collection, a much greater
sum might have been readily raised ; since there
are in each of these cities nurabers of wealthy
individuals having the good taste to rightly
appreciate the value of such an Institution, and
public spirit enough to have effected the object,
had it once received the impetus. As it is, I
could not help regretting that the opportunity
was lost, the pictures being advertised for sale
without reserve, the auction to take place in
a few days.
On the 19th we had a grand raUitary cere
raony and procession, to receive and escort to
the Battery the reraains of General Leavens-
worth, a brave and very popular oflBcer, who
died in consequence ofthe fatigue and privations
incurred on the late prairie expedition amongst
the tribes of the Missouri. His reraains were
brought hither by way of the Lakes on the
route to the place of sepulture.
The volunteer corps were all turned out on
this occasion, each reraarkable for the neatness

284 NEW YORK.
of its dress and corapleteness of appointment.
The merabers of these corps also had a trim and
dainty air well becoming raen playing at sol
diers, — a game, by the way, no full-grown biped
who regards his personal dignity ought ever
to play after arriving at the years of discretion :
for youths it is a cheerful and becoming amuse
ment enough ; but for fat, full-blown gentlemen !
Nothing can be conceived more whimsical than
the uncomfortable air of ease it is necessary
to assume on the occasion ; particularly for such
as are proraoted to the ticklish degree of field-
officers; each of whora is most unconscionably
expected at one and the same instant to retain
possession of a hard-mouthed horse, a pair or
two of reins, a sword, a plumed chapeau, and
his seat into the bargain, having only the ordi
nary allowance of hands to help himself withal.
It is all very amusing for the bystanders to laugh
at the cruel scrape their friends are in when
so be-deviled in a crowded street on a hot day ;
but let those who conceive the matter so easy,
only get appointed to the dangerous eminence,
and try how they like it.
Good-huraour and cPol temper are also indis
pensable requisites in a commander of volunteer

NEW YORK. 285
cavalry here ; for on this occasion I beheld two
or three irapatient carraen and restive jarveys
very coolly charge upon the flank of the advance
of cavalry whilst the troop was filing across the
street out of the park, and persist in forcing the
line, malgr6 the civil remonstrance of the com
bined staff, who nevertheless yielded with the
best possible humour.
Now in England I have invariably noted
that your chaw-bacon, when once he buckles
harness on, and has " the blast of war blown
in his ears," becoraes a very Tartar in his
bearing, and is rauch less conciliating towards
his fellow snobs than is your regular soldier,
whose trade is war. With us, your yeomen
whenever they have a chance, I have observed,
most uncivilly poke about the lieges with but
and bayonet, or thump and rump them with their
chargers, and entice the ill-broken brutes with
insidious prods of the spur to swish their tails,
if tails they have, into the upturned phizes of
their awe-stricken fellows.
Here, on the contrary, your volunteers " do
their spiriting gently :" all is good-nature and
good raanners; and a front is diminished, or a
column of companies in line of march is eased

286 JOURNAL.
off to the right or left to raake way for carts
or coaches, as the case requires, with a prompt
ness which is the more creditable from the fact
that the execution of a change in raovement is
no light matter.
The persons who appeared least to enjoy the
&clat of this military /e^e were the officers ofthe
regular United States' army. They were readily
distinguished by their upright, soldier-like air,
together with a certain cold, half-proud ex
pression, as though they discovered no fun in
the thing,, and moreover were insensible to the
honour of the companionship they were admitted
to. Added to the above characteristics which
struck rae, I perceived that not one ofthese gen
tleraen had so much as unsheathed his sword, or
seemed aware of having such an appendage by
his side; whereas, of the gallant volunteers,
there was not a man, from the surgeon to the
colonel, but had his iron out brightly flashing
back the sunbeams, although to sorae of the
raounted officers this raust have been a matter
of additional inconvenience, not to say consider
able peril.
During the course of the procession a salute
was fired from the battery by the mounted ar-

JOURNAL, 287
tillery corps; the bands played, and the bells
of the different churches on the line of raarch
toUed for the dead.
On the whole, this little affair was very well
conceived, and better managed, than it would
have been by any other citizen troops, except
ing, perhaps, the French, who appear to adopt
the air and habit of soldiers raore perfectly than
any other bourgeoisie whatever.
On Friday, May 28th, I acted for the last time
in the States, and so ended at the Park, where
I began, and as I began, to a crowded audience.
But the merry faces assembled here were no
longer unknown to me; I was on ray debut, a
stranger amongst strangers : I now felt myself
surrounded by personal friends, and by an au
dience which had frankly welcomed me ; which
had continued to cherish my efforts by increas
ing kindness and consideration, and which had
now thronged here less perhaps to witness a
perforraance so often repeated, than to take
leave of an individual with whom the persons
composing it had cultivated a close acquaintance
ship, and for whose talent they had encouraged
a preference. I am not of those who look upon the bond

288 JOURNAL.
linking audience and actor as a raercenary con
tract, for the hours during which the latter yields
his quantum of strength and spirit to the forraer
for so much coin, and there is an end. Were I,
unhappily, possessed by such a morbid feeling,
I could no longer act, the spell would be broken.
It is true, I might constrain bone and sinew
to administer to ray necessities, and continue
to barter these with the public for bread; but
the inspiring spirit would be away, sunk past
recall. Severed frora the syrapathies of those
it wrought for, it would cease to lighten upon
the scene, which the power of enlisting those
syrapathies alone redeems from contempt.
But it is not so, as every well-constituted mind
will avouch. Preference, and a constant ex
pression of favour from his auditory, necessarily
beget a kind feeling in return : the actor is
aware also that he is not always in a condition
to fulfil his part of the bond ; illness, low spirits,
crosses, losses, or any of " the thousand ills that
flesh is heir to," rob the raind of its elasticity,
and the body of its power ; yet rarely does the
disappointed auditor turn on the favourite and
act the clamorous creditor.
Even in very extreme cases, what a spirit of

JOURNAL. 289
forbearance have we seen exhibited, what positive
syrapathy have we felt extended in our own time
to cherished players ! It is at such moments that,
raore exposed, as he is, to iraraediate censure,
and raore helpless than any other of the servants
ofthe public, he also feels himself raore especially,
raore kindly considered, and, if possessed of a
kindly heart, cannot fail to be touched by the
feeling. After illness or prolonged absence too, it is
in the electric burst of welcome, the enthusi
astically prolonged cheer of gratulation, and in
the genuine pleasure sparkling from hundreds of
uplifted ardent eyes, that the man who devotes
hiraself to win the player's meed receives his
brief, his shadowy it may be, but his inspiring
triuraph, accorapanied by the assurance that he
is closely linked with the kindest feelings of those
who for the scene are subject to his thrall.
And when at length the hour of farewell
coraes, it is in the anxious pause, the breathless
attention, yet raore impressive than all other
species of homage, that " the poor player,"
about to be "heard no more," reads the assur
ance that on the many young fresh hearts now
subject to his art he has indelibly engraven
VOL. II, u

290 JOURNAL,
his name, often to be pleasantly recalled in after
hours, perhaps of pain and worldly care.
It is in the hope of gaining this living record
he seeks consolation for the absence of all other
less perishable fame : expecting, hoping nothing
from posterity, he has a stronger claim upon the
kindness of his contemporaries, for whora alone
he lives, and the feeling is reciprocal : hence it is
that these repay him with a superabundance of
present regard, to soften to him the conscious
ness of the oblivion to which his raeraory is
inevitably consigned, however great his ge
nius, and however ardent its longings " after
immortality."

291

JOURNAL
OF A VISIT TO QUEBEC, VIA LAKE CHAMPLAN
AND MONTREAL.
Saturday, May 30th. — Went on board the
De Witt Clinton steam-boat about six p.m. and
in the brightest possible night sailed up the most
beautiful of rivers. We were not crowded ; my
excellent friend C  e was in company, on his
way to take unto him a wife, and consequently
the trip was to me unusually agreeable. We
kept pacing the deck until we had passed throiigh
the deep shadows of the highlands^ and floated
over the silvery expanse of Newburg Bay.
Sunday, Sist. — Before six a.m. we were set
ashore at Albany. Breakfasted at the Eagle, and
at nine a. m. left for Saratoga by the rail- road ';
thence by stage to Whitehall. The day was
flne> the roads rough enough to be sure. To
the north lay the mountain State of Vermont,
u 2

292 JOURNAL.
and to the south a ridge of bold well-wooded
heights. At Glenfalls we passed the Hudson by
a wooden bridge thrown over the very foot of
the cataract : luckily, whilst in the act of cross
ing, a trace came unhitched, and we pulled up
to order raatters, just at the centre of the raisty
abyss. Thus were we afforded ample leisure to
look on the wild fall, which, when in the wil
derness, raust have been a glorious scene ; for,
disfigured as it now is by a raill or two of the
ordinary kind, it is still magnificent.
Our ride from this place to Whitehall re-
minded me much of some part of North Wales :
the enclosures are small, irregularly shaped, and
surrounded by walls of stone ; many rills of
clear water are crossed, making their way to the
Hudson through rough courses bestrewn with
fragments of rock : close on the left the river is
itself visible every now and then, whilst in the
distance rise a confused heap of wild raountains.
Nuraerous coraely-looking pigs, together with
groups of round-faced fat children, barefooted
and bareheaded, coraplete the reserablance.
For the last seven railes the road was of the
roughest kind ; but our coachman rattled along
merrily, getting us to Whitehall by ten p. m.

JOURNAL. 293
Monday, June 1st. — At about one we quitted
the comfortable inn here, and the busy little
town of Whitehall ; and in the fine steamer
Phoenix thridded our way out of the swampy
harbour forraed by the head-waters of the lake.
The hills about us rose boldly, and were
covered with a variety of trees now clothed in
their freshest leaves, therefore beautiful to look
on. For raany railes the channel continues nar
row, at tiraes confined by a steep wall of marble
surraounted by rich flowering shrubs ; then, for
a short distance, laving the edge of sorae rich
meadow slope. At last, the lake expanded
gloriously, reminding me, at a first glimpse, of
the Trossachs, save that here was less grandeur
and deep shadow, the outlines of the mountains
were softer and the valleys more fertile.
The green mountains of the State of Vermont
now bounded the lake upon the north, and on
the south rose the Giant-mountains of the State
of New York. These were for ever changing in
form, as we crossed and re-crossed the lake in
order to land or receive passengers from stated
points. This circumstance also brought us ac
quainted with several very lovely locations. Be
neath the old fort of Ticonderago we halted for

294 JOURNAL.
a few minutes ; and at Crown-point our stay was
long enough to allow a rough sketch to be taken
ofthe roofless barracks and the ruined works.
In the course of our progress we ran into two
or three of the sweetest bays imaginable, where
the calm lake was shadowed by steep mountains,
down whose sides leaped little tributary streams
that rushed sparkling and foaming into its tur
bid bosora.
It is most certain that, had these beauties
been given to England or to Scotland, they
would each and all have been berhymed and
bepainted until every point of real or imagin
able loveliness had been exhausted : for my
self, I have looked on many lakes, and by none
have been raore delightfully beguiled than by a
conteraplation of this during some nine hours
of sunshine, sunset, and twilight, the last alone
too brief. Atmosphere, I am aware, does much ;
and this was one of those lovely days whose
influence expands the heart and takes the rea
son prisoner.
After quitting Burlington, where we encoun
tered the returning steam-boat, and received a
large accession of force, I retired to ray berth,
and enjoyed the soundest possible sleep.

JOURNAL. 295
Tuesday, 2nd.' — On deck at six a. m. : found
the lake had assumed a river-like appearance ;
the channel narrow, the banks low and swampy.
The day, too, was as much changed as the scene
from yesterday, for a drizzling rain was falling,
and the clouds looked heavy and threatening.
As we neared St. John's, we had a slight
custom-house visitation ; and, soon after land
ing, were served with an excellent breakfast;
after which came the bustle of departure, A
string of carriages, of the same build used
throughout the States, occupied half the little
street, all loading heavily with baggage and
bipeds, till by nine we got in raotion, forming
quite a caravan.
The road lay for a tirae along the bank of
the new canal destined to unite the head-waters
of the lake with the St, Lawrence, and was a
pleasant succession of ditch and bog-hole. It
got better after a few railes' jolting, but was
nowhere tolerable, or creditable to his Majesty's
dominions. On entering La Prairie, at noon, we found
the good people annoyed by. a visitation which
had not yet reached St, John's, namely, myriads
of a winged insect caUed the shad-fly; these

296 JOURNAL.
covered and crowded every building, filled the
water and the air ; they lodged on your clothes,
rendered sight diflficult, and speaking irapracti
cable, except with closed teeth. Luckily, these
flies neither stiiig nor bite ; so that, setting aside
their appearance, and a certain tickling they
inflict upon the neck and face, they are easily
borne with. At half-past one p.m. the steamer
Britannia quitted the port of La Prairie to cross
the wide St. Lawrence, to where our Land of
Promise, Montreal, lay glittering in sunshine
some nine miles distant.
Half an hour landed us, and I received the
pleasure of a grip of welcome from ray old
friend W  W, who, with two or three of
his brother-oflficers, was on the look-out for rae.
Leaving my baggage to the care of Sam, I step
ped into the boat, and at once accompanied
W  w to St, Helen's, lying about half a raile
from the main land.
In ten minutes raore we were treading the
verdant sod of the island, when ray first raove
raent was to walk round it. I found it to possess
every variety of country in perfect rainiature
proportions : here were wood-crowned steeps,
shady glades, and open meadows, all offered

JOURNAL. 297
in as raany changes as raight well be managed
on so small a surface. Viewed frora this, the
city too looked very attractive, scattered over
the southern side of the great mountain.
This little island was the latest possession
of the French in Canada. Above a fort now
in ruins was last elevated the white standard,
which at one time fiuttered from the St, Law
rence to the Mississippi : thus girdling, as it
were, the British colonies, France one day look
ed to sweep into the Atlantic,
Upon the westernmost point of the island, the
tree still stands fresh and vigorous beneath
which the articles for the final cession of the
Canadas were agreed upon, and the last portion
of the vast empire contemplated for France by
the genius of Richelieu for ever abandoned.
The present garrison is composed of a com
pany of the Royal Artillery, Here is an exten
sive dep6t for stores, an armoury, two great
magazines containing not less than six thousand
barrels of gunpowder and all the other munitions
of war.
In the afternoon I re-crossed the channel and
surveyed Montreal, which has an air completely
French, The streets are irregular, narrow, Ul-

298 JOURNAL.
paved, and raoreover rejoice universally in a
fishy savour in no way detracting from their
Gallic characteristics.
Here is a large building in progress, or at
least standing in an unfinished state, called the
Cathedral, but, saving the size, putting forth
externally small claim to notice ; whilst the in
terior might serve as a model of ill-taste, both
as to arrangeraent and colour, for the especial
enlightehraent of all future building committees.
The convents appear well built ; and many of
the private dwellings are large, and of a goodly
aspect, Thursday, Mh. — Having fully raade up my
mind on this day to ride over the race-course,
visit the Rapids of La Chine, and make a com
plete circuit of the mountain, I was resolute,
my time being raeted, to carry out ray plan
despite a thunderstorra of the raost violent kind,
which began as we were setting forth and con
tinued all day, with one or two short intervals
of sunshine.
I found in the beauty of the country as
seen frora the Rapids, and from the different
points of the mountain, ample compensation :
what ray coraplaisant companions felt I am not

JOURNAL. 299
SO sure of We of a certainty returned in the
afternoon three of the most thoroughly soaked
and dirtiest gentleraen within the wide range
of his Majesty's dominions. On^ the whole,
it was agreed that, having to choose between
a ducking or a dusting, we were better off
served up soused in rain and only parboiled,
than we should have been smothered in dust
and wholly roasted.
Dined at the hospitable mess of the 32nd, and
quitted it late for St. Helen's.
The lightning was frequent and very vivid
during our row across the rapid ; and it was a
curious speculation to narrowly watch an occa
sional flash descending the tall conducting rods,
and gambol along the roof of the great maga
zine, as though prying for a sly crevice by which
to enter. It afforded a subject for consideration
to calculate the next possible resting-place of
our little isle, should the ignition of six thousand
barrels of gunpowder treat us with an ascension
by moonlight.
The soldiers' wives were in great alarm, poor
souls ! and some of the chubby regimental
urchins, destined to live on gunpowder, were
now crying their eyes out for very fear, as they

300, JOURNAL.
clung to their mothers' petticoats, where they
gathered in little knots to watch the fantastic
course of the wild fluid.
Fatigue had prepared me for sleep, and my rest
was undisturbed, excepting that I conceived the
sentry's quarterly cry of" All's well!" sounded
louder than usual, or that I heard it oftener
than was my wont, as it rose distinctly above
the fitful roar of the storra.
Friday, 5th. — All is perfectly calra, and glad
ness and increase of beauty are spread over the
newly-renovated field and forest, " What a de
licious spot is this sarae St. Helen's !"
Such, involuntarily, was my exclamation as I
this morning thrust aside the jalousies from ray
open window, and felt the pure air rush within
ray little charaber, and saw the sunbearas dan
cing down the passing rapid, and flashing frora the
bright roofs and spires of the raore distant city.
One might have fancied the tales of El Dorado
realized, and that the precious metals were here
devoted to cover the humblest dwellings,
I should like 'greatly to have a history of this
sweet spot since the first bold savage braved in
his canoe the perilous rapid, and found security
beneath the shadow of these spreading trees.

JOURNAL, 301
In the winter, by the way, the passage is simple
enough, — a natural high road of ice unites it to
Montreal ; and last season, my friends inform
rae, they drove their light carioles over a finer
way than Mac Adara ever drearaed of, for full
thirteen weeks.
Independent of the garrison, the population of
St, Helen's is limited to three or four families
in the civil employ of the government, together
with the holder of a fine farm, a scion of the
Green Isle, who bears the unquestionable name
of Mister Dolan ; a man of little labour but rauch
Latin, whose huraanities are at his finger-ends
whilst his toes are out of his brogues.
In right of a sraall rental paid to govern
raent, tbis worthy carefully superintends the di
lapidations perforraing by tirae and the cliraate
upon the neat cottage, and a couple of rustic pa
vilions erected by the taste of Lady Dalhousie
whilst her lord coramanded here, together with
an inclosed garden, which would, if decently cul
tivated, supply Montreal with fruit and vegeta
bles, all of which, under the inspection of my
friend Mister Dolan, is fast retrograding into its
primitive condition,
I this morning, at eleven, met ray company at

302 JOURNAL.
the theatre, a very neat one ; and, what with
those already mustered, together with a windfall
just landed from Waterford, in the shape of a
pretty woman and her husband, in search of an
engagement, I fancy ray friend B-  y and I may
manage to get up one night's fun for Montreal,
though, for ray own part, I would rather idle
than play.
Same night acted a couple of interludes
to a full house, and an exceedingly merry-
humoured one ; although the only really good
thing was the orchestra, composed of the excel
lent band of the 32nd regiraent, which had been
kindly placed by the coraraanding officer at the
disposal of " the Lessee,"
At a late hour took to the skiff for our quiet
retreat, which rose, in this tirae of moonlight,
above the shining waters like some fairy garden
resting on a bed of mother-of-pearl. We sung
Moore's Boat-song, and not a sound except the
appropriate soft plash ofthe oars came between
us and the echo that faintly repeated our chorus.
The echo from the island^ by the way, is very
distinct, and oft repeated ; and, on such a night
as this, to stand beside the nine-o'clock gun, lis
tening to its bellow as it reverberates amongst

JOURNAL, 303
the opposite heights, is one of the things of these
parts worth doing.
Saturday, 6th. — Again, what sunshine! and how
invigorating is the wind, now breathing sweet
music through the trees as their thick leaves
rustle above the swift river !
Two or three large rafts are in sight, their
hardy crews straining on the huge oars as they
cross the rapids for the city. At measured inter
vals their wild cry fills the air ; whilst the notes
of our island bugles, together with the drums of
the city, reply merrily and boldly, as though
flinging back the challenge of some approaching
horde of savage invaders.
And verily no beings can look more wild of
aspect or attire than the crews working the
huge rafts which navigate these waters, Eu
ropeans, Indians, and Bois-brules, as the half-
breed is denominated, are all found in this
employ, but so rauch alike in equipment and
complexion, that, only for the round Saxon
face, Ught hair, and blue eyes, here and there
distinguishable, it would be diflficult to conceive
them of different lineage.
A pair of loose trousers of coloured serge or
flannel, a sash of scarlet worsted or wampum girt

304 JOURNAL,
about the loins over a shirt of indescribable hue,
moccassins on the feet, and a red cap or bonnet
of fox-skin, or not unfrequently a shock of hair
that despises any covering, and alike defles the
force of sun and storra, forras the common cos
tume of these sons of toil, whose lives, com
monly of short duration, are wasted in quick
alternations of perilous labour and wild debauch.
Their rough mates, the boatraen of old Mis
sissippi and the lakes, have nearly disappeared ;
and how rauch longer steara and railway will yet
leave this calling open to the Tartar-spirits ofthe
North, it is impossible to say. At present they
are evidently in full employ, for there is hardly
a reach of the rivers flowing about the isles of
Montreal but is, at some time or other through
out the day, laden by these cumbrous rafts,
often measuring one hundred feet in length by
ten in width.
These raasses are rafted from vast distances ;
and, during their course of perhaps flfty days,
their crews look for no covering: the rain de
scends upon them, and the waves of the rapids
rise over them, but they abide both without
shade or shelter ; subsisting principally upon
pork, dressed or raw, as may.be, and having for

JOURNAL. 305
their beverage the stream whereon they may
chance to float, except during an occasional
halt at some stated point where whisky invites
them to hold a deep but brief carouse.
At ten A. M. crossed to the city according to
appointment, to raeet three friends in whose
good corapany I was to visit
The Sault au Recollect,
I procured the stout charger whose quality of
endurance I had well tested on a forraer occa
sion. True to our tirae, we took the road, such
as it was, and, after an hour's hard riding, reach
ed the river at the point where several fine
mills and a fishery bring constant grist to the
worthy monks of St. Sulpice, who are here the
lords pararaount of soil and streara.
The fishermen appeared divided into two
watches or squads, one of which was actively
casting for the shad, the other more pleasantly
eraployed in cooking thera.
We took our stand upon a green point ele
vated a few feet above the river it projected
into; in front ran the Sault, or leap, raging Uke
the ocean when lashed by a gale, and churning
amongst reefs of rock. Opposite to us, at a dis-
VOL. II. X

306 THE SAULT AU RECOLLECT,
tance of some half mUe, stood a couple of very
spacious stone-buUt raUls, their lofty substantial
walls pierced by numerous narrow windows, and
surraounted by steep red roofs, high over which
waved a grove of noble trees : this was I'ile
Jtsu, and the stand whence we surveyed this
scene the Isle of Montreal.
Whichever way we cast our eyes, up or down
the streara, its course was vexed and its raood
chafed raore or less ; but before, and close
upon our right, was the wildest turraoil; and
over an eddy of this, frora off temporary plat
forms of planks, the fishermen flung down the
streara their round landing-nets, as far as the
eighteen-foot pole to which these were affixed
would perrait, then painfully dragged them back
against the current, sometiraes laden with fine
shad, but oftener coraing horae erapty, to be
again leisurely cast back.
The sameness of this movement, the softness
of the turf, and the diflficulty attending conver
sation, had gradually lulled our little party into
a pleasant reverie ; when, on a sudden, we were
startled by faint cheers borne on the downward
breeze : we all sprang upon our feet in an in
stant, and, looking upwards, caught sight of a

THE SAULT AU RECOLLECT, 307
monstrous bed of timber bounding towards the
Sault. This was the very chance we had desired and
were waiting for, and intensely was my sight
directed towards it. On the very centre of the
raft a tall pole was elevated, surraounted by a
fanciful flag ; at its foot the Pilot, or Conducteur,
was stationed, motioning the course suggested
by his glance at the state of the fall, towards
which the mass was hurried with a rapidity each
instant seemed to accelerate ; and, in obedience
to his directions^ the active rameurs were seen
tugging at the oars, and straining each sinew to
the uttermost.
Involuntarily we approached the very edge
of our stand, to watch as closely as possible
the first plunge of that great raft down into
the boiling breakers, from , whose abyss a
crew of Titans could not now have turned it.
Quickly it neared the awful leap ; at a signal
frora the watchful pilot, the foremost half of the
crew abandoned their useless oars; and, running
nimbly along the timber, rallied in a group
about their standard, waving their caps, and
braving the wild roar of the water With as wild
a cheer. Suddenly the fluttering pennoft droop-
x 2

308 THE SAULT AU RECOLLECT.
ed against the raast, then rose erect above it ;
the loud hurrah was lost, and headlong down
they sank.
¦ The heavy raass, loosely bound together, now
writhed and bent about like a net of twine cast
upon an angry brook, whilst the concussion pro
duced by the clashing timbers sounded like a
discharge from a battery. I drew short breath
as I looked upon the raen eraerging frora the
foara, and again actively running to quarters to
resume the heavy oars.
If the raft goes down unbroken, they guide it
so as to preserve the very strength of the stream,
until the diminished pace again demands their
labour ; but if any timbers are severed from the
parent bed by the leap, as is frequently the case,
the sternmost gang leisurely dart their pile-head
ed poles of an almost unwieldy length into the
stray logs, and thus drawing thera quickly back
again, secure them in their places preparatory
to the next fall lying on their perilous path.
I felt monstrously excited when, roused by the
cry of the near voyageurs, I rose for the first
time to witness a scene to which I feel ray pen
can do but little justice ; frora the first glance at
the timber-ends emerging past a leafy turn in

THE SAULT AU RECOLLECT. 309
the up-stream, and bounding onward with a mo
raentary increase of impetus, until the strong raft
becomes but as a bed of straw upon the torrent.
Then there is the desperate plying of the oars,
their hurried abandonment, with the in-gather
ing, of the bold crew clinging together with
cheers round their bright flag, until the leap is
raade, and the assailing waves rise boiling about
and above them.
One of the descending rafts, for we were fa- t
voured with several, parted in nearly two halves
within the rapids : luckily no one had been left
out of bounds ; for, as the fishermen assured us,
the strongest swimmer is never seen alive after
his first plunge into these frightful eddies.
Having abided our time, we purchased a fine
shad, which we took to a near cottage, where
the mistress cheerfully set about boucan-ing it
for us ; that is, roasting it over the fire in the
smoke of the wood. With this, some brown-
bread, and a glass of water, we made an excel
lent luncheon ; then, after taking a considerable
circuit, re-entered Montreal, and crossed at once
to the island par excellence.
At half-past eight p. m. of the same evening I
was put on board the " British America" steamr

810 JOURNAL,
boat, a fine large-class vessel, having a heavily
laden schooner in tow.
A§ we swept down before the river-front of
the city, I was struck with the appearance ofthe
steep tin-roofed houses and raany little doraes
glancing back the raoon's rays; when, turning
to regard St. Helen's, the blaze of a port-fire
ai;rested my attention ; the flash of the gun in
stantly succeeded, whilst, amidst its prolonged
echoes, rose the contending notes of drum and
bugle. It was just nine o'clock ; in a few mo
ments all was again calm and still, the last spire
of MontJ;eal quickly retreated in the shades of
night, and the low banks of the St. Lawrence
stretched away far and wide before us.
After a couple of hours' walk on deck, where
two pr three ladies and gentleraen were prome-
j^ading with the quick, active step that at once
prpclairaed thera English, I felt suflBciently
wearied by some eighteen hours actively passed
on foot or in sa4dl^, to calculate on a sound
sleep. About raidnight a devil of a row awakened
me ; I listened, and heai-d a rush overhead Uke
a burst of qavalry, the trampling of horses, the
yeUing of dogs» together with the loud voices of

JOURNAL, 311
many men in high contention. What the mis
chief can have come to us ? thinks I.
A stray waiter, whom I discovered discoursin' a
friend in the pantry, was at last raade sensible
of my calls, and from this youth I quickly learn
ed our whereabout.
We were lying at Sorrel, the country-resi
dence of the Governor, Lord Aylraer ; and the
noise was occasioned by the shipping of his
lordship's stud for Quebec, whither the family
had reraoved frora this suraraer abode, to await
and receive the coraraission about to supersede
him in his high oflfice.
Finding that the din was not occasioned by an
infall of the aborigines, but was only a peaceful
taking in of freight, I disraissed my waiter to
his friend and pantry, and " addressed me again
to sleep."
Sunday, 7th.-.-AhovA, noon arrived at Trois
Rivieres, a very pretty little town, which, being
Sunday, was thronged with the rural population
of the vicinity attending church.
Numbers of these persons were pacing along
the river-bank upon sturdy little ponies, and
in the harbour were many bateaux filling with
thera, before re-crossing the St. Lawrence : their

312 JOURNAL.
dress was invariably neat and picturesque, and
their physiognoray, though soraewhat heavy,
was gentle and pleasing. These bateaux were
shaded with the branches of trees, and deco
rated with wild flowers, and when moving off
with their freight had quite an Arcadian appear
ance. From this place to St. Anne's, the north bank
of this river might be sketched for the sarae side
ofthe Mississippi as viewed from New Orleans
to Baton Rouge ; a natural levee runs along at
about the same elevation, on a like dead level ;
directly behind this bank are scattered similar
poor-looking tenements, badly built, and half
painted ; and, at a certain distance in the rear
of these, rises a melancholy-looking forest of half-
naked trees, with not a single rise or gap along
the hazy line of the horizon resting upon them.
The glowing heat of this calra day also favoured
the illusion, which was certainly in all its points
the most perfect imaginable : it would require
very little to persuade a man landed here on
such a day that he was in Louisiana.
The river isigain becomes interesting about
the junction of the Richelieu, The banks are
once more broken and of irregular heights.

JOURNAL. 313
Numerous churches, having domes and spires
like the btfrois of Normandy, only that these
are roofed over with pure tin, shoot above each
wooded knoll ; and the stream whirls and boils
araongst reefs of irregular rock, some hidden,
others visible, moving at a great pace for the
ticklish navigation.
At three p.m. the Heights of Abraham hove
in sight, and our prospect grew in interest with
every moraent. Next rose a forest of tall masts
along the shore ; away upon our right was
Point Levi, with its soft wooded brow ; and
above our heads upon the left glistened tower
and town, with the grim batteries hanging over
the precipice.
As we drew closer, the ruins of the Chateau
formed an object of striking interest, and gave
added effect to the approach to this raost pic
turesque capital ; an object of interest which
I hope will soon be removed by his Majesty's
loyal and liberal parliament for Lower Canada,
and a new edifice erected, in a style becoming
to their taste and worthy such a site.
The valley of Montraorency, with its long
straggling suburb, soon opened to our view;
and the river assuraed the appearance of a

314 JOURNAL.
lake encircled by mountains, and bounded at its
eastern extremity by the Isle of Orleans.
I was perfectly enraptured with air, earth, and
water: freshness and beauty reigned over all;
there was not a cloud in the sky or a spot on
the landscape one would have desired blotted
out ; and, taken as a coup d'ceil, I do not hesitate
to say this was by far the finest I ever beheld.
Sunday though this was, there was much bustle
in the harbour. Little dwarfish steamers were
flying across the channel in opposite directions ;
long boats, laden with sea-worn emigrants, were
rowing from the shore back to their respective
ships. It was pleasant to look on these poor peo
ple coming back from a first attendance at the
altars raised, by their predecessors in exile,
amidst a wilderness now made, by the industry
Heaven has blessed, so glorious.
How cheering in their eyes raust have been
this sunny view of the land of their adoption !
How must their hearts have leaped within them
as they pressed for the first time its shores,
and heard once more the sound of the church-
going bell, and kneeled in gratitude before that
type of salvation which they came to bear yet

JOURNAL. 815
deeper within the bosom of the desert, thera
selves the hardy pilgriras of a new crusade !
their haches d'armes, tbeir stout wood-axes ; their
lances, the goads of the patient steer ; their
artillery, the plough and harrow ; their advance,
the progress of industrious hardihood; their
bloodless victory, a blessing to the field they
win, a glory to the banner under which they
strive : braving peril, toil, and exile for a coun
try to be raade holy by their triumph, and cout
secrated at once to freedom and to God !
It was impossible to contemplate unmoved
this rustic chivalry, this banding of men of
every European tongue for a comraon purpose,
so pregnant with good for themselves and for
their posterity.
Let the healthful tide roll on, here is bound
less space for all comers ; and ages must pass
before willing toil shall fail to find present era
ployraent, cheered by the prospect of ultimate
independence. About five p. M. we were landed. In corapany
with Captain W  -s, U. S. A. I ascended the
mountain ; and, as our tirae was limited, we had
no sooner secured good quarters at the hotel than
we sallied forth to survey the works, which are.

316 JOURNAL,
I understand, of the strongest and raost perfect
description, suflficiently guaranteeing Quebec
against all surprisal for the tirae to corae.
The flnest view is that offered frora the
Signal-tower. The city. Point Levi, the winding river, with
the Isle of Orleans, lay clearly spread beneath
our feet as in a well-designed panorama, with
such light and shadow as the artist is seldom
favoured with, except in iraagination.
Coraing down from the fort, I was happy
enough to encounter Captain Doyle, driving a
right London-appointed tilbury. He had been
to the hotel in search of me, and now, disraiss
ing his boy, installed me in the vacancy, and set
off at once for the field of battle on the Plains of
Abraham. Our first pull-up was by a little potato-field,
raeraorable as the spot where the gallant Wolfe
fell. A broken coluran of black raarble had just
been erected here by Lord Aylraer : a tribute
honourable to the taste of the gallant soldier
living, and which will henceforward worthily
mark the spot where the young victor died.
After viewing over the battle-ground, with the
ascent from Wolfe's Cove, we turned back to the

JOURNAL. 317
city and drove to the Chateau, or rather to its
ruins. We walked through the blackened hall
out upon the still firm floor of the gallery, or
balcony, overlooking at a giddy height the lower
town. Frora this we strolled through the hang
ing-garden of the Chateau, which is laid out
on terraces cut from the face of the precipice,
and hedged in by a range of cannon of the
largest calibre.
Took coffee with Doyle in a charaber, which,
although placed at a soraewhat unfashionable alti
tude, coraraanded a prospect worth all the labour
of a threefold flight. Finding it a hopeless task
waiting for night, that is, for darkness, went
horae and to bed, a little wearied, but more
delighted, leaving directions to be called at five
A.M. having arranged with Captain W  s to
ride at that hour to the Falls of Montmorency.
Monday, Sth. — In saddle by half past five a. m.
with a raorning that made these narrow, dusty
streets look both cool and clear. The market-
folk were already in motion frora the country,
having light carts filled with the articles they
supply to the bourgeoisie.
Crossing a long wooden bridge, whose toll
was collected by a sturdy old invalid soldier.

318 JOURNAL,
we entered, soon after, a perfect French village
of interrainable length, closely flanking the high
way, and possessing a very large and well-built
church, fronted, after the fashion universal here>
by a couple of spires, with a large dome in the
centre, all coated over with bright tin, and so
glittering famously in the raorning sun.
A tolerable road brought us in ten railes or so
to the object of our early gallop. Hitching the
horses beneath a near shed, we roaraed about
looking how best to descend ; until discovering a
ladder planted against the face of the precipice.
We took to this, and going down it about seventy
feet, were landed upon a table-rock exactly on a
level with the torrent, and at the very point
whence it raakes its down leap into a bay of the
St. Lawrence, a portion of it being arrested, and
turned to the ignoble use of a wool-carding mill>
which abuts on the very edge of the cataract.
I have no sort of doubt that, had I been
brought hither before seeing Niagara, I should
have felt duly impressed by its grandeur, which
is unquestionably of a character suflficiently
striking to inspire a much less sensitive admirer
of the sublime in nature ; as it was, this fall only
brought fresh to ray recollection the scene I had

JOURNAL. 319
looked upon the year before, no feature of which
can ever be effaced by any other object.
At this day I can find no adequate language
wherein to dress my impressions of that wonder.
Of Montmorency I only know that I felt, whilst
viewing it, as though other doings of Nature
might be found every way fellow to it : that
such things, in fact, were existing elsewhere,
or raight be.
But Niagara in its greatness makes all else
little. It stands, incomparable and alone, a
time-defying monument of creation as first
called from chaos ; one feels that the waters
of tbe delugfe may have risen above it and
subsided, leaving it unaltered. It is possible to
iraagine all other worldly things either changed,
or within the scope of mutation and the power
of Time. You feel that with raost earthly things
you have a right to speculate, to calculate on
their endurance, to control and to direct them :
but never so with old Niagara. Its aspect awes
man into nothing, it mocks at his dreams, and
defies alike his wisdora and his power.
Certain points on this Montmorency road
afford, I fancy, the finest view of Quebec. Two
sides of the city are presented, with its close

320 JOURNAL.
streets, and bright-roofed buildings, rising irre
gularly tier over tier, and crowned by the for
midable lines of defence over which the cross of
Old England waves proudly in the breeze. Oppo
site swells the softer outline of Point Levi, sprink
led with pretty cottages, and separated from the
mountain by a narrow channel. As a foreground,
the smooth bay lies spread between, and over all
bends a sky without a cloud, glowing in the colour
of the early morning sun.
With this scene before us, we rattled back at
a merry pace, reaching our quarters by a little
after eight A. m. We found horses here await
ing to carry us to the Chateau to breakfast, an
attention of Captain Doyle's which, after a hasty
toilet, we availed ourselves of.
My steed, who had probably an eye to his
own breakfast rather than to mine, made a bolt
for the stable just as we gained the house ; I
strove to persuade him to take me to the door by
the only means I possessed — patience, civility,
and a stick : but he would not be 'ticed ; I lost my
patience, forgot my civility, and broke ray stick,
yet he fairly bullied rae, till, finding ray saddle
turning, I left him to go" his own way, and
ungraciously ceded the point in dispute.

JOURNAL. 321
After breakfast, my Araerican soldier compa
nion being naturally solicitous to witness guard
mounting, I accorapanied him on to the parade,
and had the pleasure of seeing the 79th High
landers come on the ground, with the band and
pipes playing alternately. It was really quite
refreshing to see this fine corps in such order;
the raen were uncoraraonly good-looking fellows,
and fairly shook the ground with their measured
tread. Of all our soldiers no arm attracts the notice
and adrairation of strangers so rauch as the
Highland corps ; the striking colours of the cos
tume, its picturesque arrangement, the waving
of the gay plaid and plume, together with the
strange wild skirl of the bagpipes, lay hold on
the imagination, and are at the same time so un
like the military array of any other country, that
no comparison is ever suggested as a drawback.
It was no easy matter to tear oneself away
from the hospitalities tendered frora every quar
ter here; but finding that after this night no
boat was to sail until Wednesday, and having
pledged myself to be at Montreal on that day, I
even buckled on the armour of resolution, and,
making a virtue of necessity, broke away in time
VOL. II. Y

322 JOURNAL.
to join Captain W  s on board the stearaer, at
ten o'clock p. m. Within a quarter of an hour
after we left the wharf, raaking a sweep down
wards in order to take a large brig in tow from
her raoorings in the streara.
This chance and the correspondent delay,
afforded us an opportunity of viewing the city
frora various points. The night was lovely, and
the deep shadows of the towering raountain,
with each salient angle raade bright by the
silver moon, formed a picture altogether en
chanting. The ruins of the Chateau, with the rays of
bright light streaming through its open roof
and many windows over the blackened broken
walls, became, however, my chief object of ad
miration. I trust the good citizens of Quebec, having
been afforded this opportunity, will erect a pile
here worthy the site ; a castellated building
would perhaps be the style best adapted to this,
and would come well in with the river line of
defence, whose strong curtain runs parallel with
the terrace, from which the windows of the Cha
teau look perpendicularly upon the streets two
hundred feet below.

JOURNAL. 323
At Wolfe's Cove we approached close under
the wooded heights, where we took in tow a
second brig ; then sheering out, began pain
fully to ascend the current with a dead head-
breeze, and having these raonsters yawing about
on each quarter.
Our Titan stearaer groaned, and heaved, and
strained, as though but sulkily submitting to
this added charge, and doing the master's work,
in the spirit of Caliban, under the spell of a
higher intelligence.
Tuesday, 9th. — Find that during the night
our progress continued painfully slow ; in
deed, only that the wind lulled, we could not
have stemmed the rapids ; but when above the
Richelieu we made better way, arriving at Trois
Rivieres about noon, with a fine fair breeze blow
ing up the stream.
The brigs were here cast loose to make the
best of their way whilst we took in a supply of
wood. Meantirae, Captain W  s and I took
a stroll about the town, which in itself is pretty,
and agreeably situated. All this day the breeze
continued favourable, and consequently our pace
was tolerable. How long we should have been
with a head-wind, it is irapossible to say. Y 2

324 JOURNAL.
Wednesday, 10th. — I was this morning on deck
by four a.m. and was well repaid for my early
rising. We were some thirty railes distant
from Montreal, as our pilot inforraed rae : the
land on either side was low, but soft, verdant, and
well wooded, with the prettiest-looking villages
dotted along frora point to point. At times,
three or four of these, with their triple-spired
churches, were at once visible as we slowly
steered through groups of islets of every form
and size, but all of a colour of unequalled purity.
I cannot wonder at the rapturous language
used in the description of these places by the
sea-wearied discoverers who viewed them for the
first tirae in the summer season ; for even I, with
no such spur to imagination, find it difficult to
stick to sober prose when recalling the luxuriant
growth of these isles of the far North. It would
appear as though Nature, aware that the pos
session of beauty is with thera extreraely liraited,
had resolved, by way of compensation, to render
their short-lived loveliness surpassing.
At last was seen, high towering over all, the
rounded top of the fairest of the hundred isles
of the St. Lawrence, St. Helen's ; and, shortly
after, the glittering domes of the city of Montreal

JOURNAL. 325
gave warning that oUr up-voyage was drawing
to a happy conclusion.
Thursday, llth. — This raorning took a fare
well stroll over St. Helen's, which, on a surface of
a mile in length by half a mile in breadth, has all
the attractions Nature could devise scattered with
a raost liberal hand. It is shadowed and scented
by a hundred sorts of odorous shrubs and flowers.
The groves are filled with birds of beautiful plu
mage ; the graceful blue bird, the enamelled
hummer, and the cardinal, with his hood of the
brightest scarlet, are for ever on the wing in
pursuit of the shad-fly. The pert woodpecker
climbs the trees, and along the shores sits the
contemplative heron, watching the rapids flow
ing by, which are, during certain seasons, ab
solutely alive with flsh.
In short, I cannot iraagine a more perfect sum
raer abode in such a climate. The aromatic air
wafted into one's window on a raorning here,
raade it a delight to open it. The charaber I
occupied looked out upon the grassy rarapart
and over it, affording a sight ofthe city in its
best aspect, and the noble river dividing us frora
it. Close opposite to ray window was a wind
ing path, completely shaded, which led from

326 JOURNAL.
the fort to the little harbour where the island
fleet lies raoored; which fleet consisted at this
tirae of an Indian canoe, the soldiers' large raar-
ket-boat, and the officers' cutter. Sorae one or
other of these were alraost constantly on the
wing between isle and raain ; and really it was
worth while, once a day, to take a sniff of the
fishy atraosphere of the hot city, in order fully to
appreciate the advantages of the cool pure air of
la belle ile.
At four P.M. after having taken leave of ray
island friends, whose attentions had rendered
ray stay here so delightful, I set off with ray old
comrade W  w, and Mr. E  r, who had
decided upon accompanying me as far on my way
as St. John's. We found the La Prairie steam
boat quite crowded with the farmers of the con
tinent, on their way home from the market of
Montreal : amongst these were some French ;
but the raajority was coraposed of lowland Scotch
and Irish, with a fair proportion of Highlanders.
During our short passage I passed to and fro,
below and above, amongst these various speci
mens of ray fellow-subjects, but was at last fairly
brought up by the look and gestures of a couple
of men engaged in close argument.

JOURNAL. 327
The one was a person well stricken in years,
with fine white hair straying beneath the broad
leaf of his decent beaver hat ; he had a keen
sraall eye, well covered by a pair of thick grey
eyebrows ; with features rauch wrinkled, but full
of intelligence : he was slightly hurapbacked,
and otherwise bent by the weight of years.
His antagonist was a low, square-built fel
low, with a set of blunt features, quick spark
ling little eyes, a ruddy complexion, and a
broad low brow, over which was set, with a
somewhat jaunty air, a blue bonnet. Both
were evidently Scotch ; the younger disputant,
by his high shrill tone and peculiar pronuncia
tion, a true Celt.
I soon discovered " the Glasgow body" was
engaged in giving a lecture to the sturdy moun
taineer upon the absolute folly of seeking to up
hold exclusively the Gaelic tongue : the High
lander, who was head-vestryman in his parish,
having, as it carae out, lately advertised for a
clergyraan who could officiate in that ancient
language. It raay readily be supposed that be
tween such disputants the argument was a warm
one. The Glasgow elder, slow, precise, and very

328 JOURNAL.
energetic withal, insisted that the land they stood
upon was no strangers' land ; that they were not
expected, like the Israelites of old whilst in a
condition of bondage, to hold themselves a peo
ple apart ; that the English tongue and English
laws were lawfully theirs ; and that those were
the wisest men and the best subjects who learn
ed the first in order that they might neither be
ignorant nor forgetful of the last.
The hielan' man adraitted, frigidly enough I
thought, the present supreraacy of English law
and language, but insisted that the congregation
upon their settleraent absolutely needed a Gaelic
pastor to preach the word, and no other ; for,
although all of them understood the Gaelic, full
one half knew no word of English !
" More shame for them !" exclairaed the Glas
gow raan ; " what for don't they learn it ? Puir
prejudiced bodies that they are !"
" What for no ?" retorted quickly the nettled
Highlander : " why, because they just prefer
their ain : and I can't say I wonder at it all ; for
I know baith, and must aver, Mr. Dalgleish,
that ray preference is wholly for ta Gaelic, which
is a finer language, and a petter and older lan
guage, and of a petter and an older nation by
far."

JOURNAL. 329
" Hoot tout !" coolly responded old Glasgow ;
" Ye're just daft on thae points, Duncan M'Nab:
why, man alive ! yer' nae people at hame, much
less here, where you are as the least plash
flung from the paddle-wheel below us to the
braid stream on which it drops to raingle with
its waters ; a lesson ye raay tak profit by. Ye've
neither country, nor laws, nor government that
owns yer tongue on the whole face o' God's
airth, if ever ye had either ; whilst the laws and
language o' England are at this time universal !
ay, sir, universal, or at least mair sae than any
one tongue ever yet was since the Lord made
men strangers to their fellows at the confound
ing o' Babel."
" Ta Gaelic was spoken before tat day !"
sharply bolted out M'Nab, " and was spoken
since tat day by a bigger nation tan England
ever was, or ever will be ! Tak tat, now, Mr.
Dalgleish !"
" Well now, see, Duncan M'Nab," continued
the cooler Lowlander, in a tone provokingly un
moved ; " that, I 'm thinking, must be a mat
ter o' doubt, rather than well-authenticated his
tory ; and before I either anger ye by contra
dicting it, or wrang my ain sense by allowing

330 JOURNAL
you the benefit o't, I'll just seek counsel o'this
gentleman, who evidently has a feelin' in our ar
gument, although he taks no part in it by words.
What say ye, sir ?" he added, directly appeal
ing to me ; " shall we allow M'Nab's folk the
credit' o' bavin' given a language to the world
raore universal than the English tongue ?"
" I think you may, my good friend," replied
I, thus engaged to speak, and in no way willing
to spoil the controversy; "and this without
losing any advantage by such an admission,
seeing, that if the Gaelic were once so general,
I don't think it a raatter of credit or congratu
lation to its people that it is now extinguished,
or only kept alive by the patriotic prejudices
of a few clansraen in the Hielans and by the
ignorance of my own countrymen in portions of
Ireland." " Ha!" cries Glasgow ; " that 's a hit, sir, and
one that didna' occur to my mind ! Now, M'Nab,
how say ye to this ? Why the deevil didna' ye
keep yer ground that tirae ye had it all yer
ain way, and no be lettin' strangers win it clean
frae ye?"
" Ta' Gaelic was ta language o' WaUace and
o' Bruce, and of Cyrus, who came before thera,"

JOURNAL, 331
urged the Gael, hotly, " and who will say thae
were easy to beat 1"
" Who ever said that a Hielanman was easy
to beat ?" here cannily put in Glasgow : " not that
I altogether allow Cyrus, or Wallace, or Bruce
to ha' bin Hielanders ; though I won't say that
they didna' speak Gaelic : but fac's are ill to
argue down, and the real fac' o' this raatter is,
M'Nab, that here Lowlander and Hielander are
a' alike English, and it is not our duty alane, but
our interest, to foregoe all thae harae prejudices,
that have wrought us harra enough, and lang
enough, without importing them here, to be left
as an evil legacy to our children to keep them
as strangers to ane anither."
" Look here, Mr. Dalgleish," demanded M'Nab,
" do you admit your belief in election and free
grace ?"
At this I fairly bolted off the course ; but in
a few minutes after, whilst preparing to land at
La Prairie, ray old Glasgow-man sidled along by
me, with an inquiry as to ray pursuit and ray
name, in order, he added, that he might re
raember our pleasant argument, whispering in
ray ear as we separated,
" Hielanmen are aye weel enough in sorae

332 JOURNAL.
particulars, sir; but they're just fairly eat up
wi' pride and superstition, and fu' o' prejudices.
At harae or abroad it 's aye the like ; they're of
a race that can only be iraproved by araalgaraa-
tion and tirae. I wish you a very pleasant pas
sage harae, sir, and a good evening to you ! "
Returning his civility, I was here separated
frora ray elder. In about half an hour after I
was about to quit the hotel, in the extra we had
engaged for St. John's, when my Hielander,
whose warm heart I had won by some honest
commendation of his native country, ran up to
me to shake hands, saying with a loud laugh,
" Ta old raan was a good raan, and a well-
educated raan ; but a Glasgow is always a Glas
gow ; sell his web or his waens for ta raoney,
and carein' as little for either kin or country as
does ta cuckoo. God bless you, and if ever
you should see Ben Nevis again, think on Dun
can M'Nab that will see it no raore."
Away ran the active Hielander, after his
party, who were proceeding by the shore road,
and in a few rainutes ray companions and myself
were jolting at the rate of three railes and a half
an hour over the ruts of La Prairie,
It is really surprising to observe how these

JOURNAL. 333
sons of the Celt adhere to their native tongue,
and preserve every early custom that is in any
way practicable.
In the raountains of North Carolina there
exists a colony of Sutherland Highlanders, two-
thirds of whora speak no English, and who
possess negroes who only know Gaelic ; even
within thirty miles of Philadelphia I stumbled
upon a faraily in the third generation, or rather
I ought to say, found the three generations
together. The children tottering before the
doors had, as had their fathers before thera, a
duck-puddle to wade in, with a dung-heap
" quite convanient " to sun theraselves upon in
coraraon with the pigs and fowls, and they were
all lisping the Gaelic tongue with the raost un
sophisticated ignorance of any other whatever.
On one or two occasions I considered our
present journey about to be concluded by an
overturn into the canal, along whose bank we
rolled raost critically, as we neared our harbour ;
we were, however, landed in due time all safe,
and procured a very good supper.
Friday, 12th  Left St. John's with a couple
of gentleraen in canoe for lie aux Nois, there
to abide the coming of the steam-boat. The

334 JOURNAL.
heat was intense, but our canoe-men were a pair
of lusty old lads, Canadians, and they pulled us
up streara merrily at the rate of six railes an hour,
keeping close beneath the trees growing out of
the lake, here a narrow channel merely.
We found Fort Lennox garrisoned by a party
of the 32nd regiraent, under the command of
Major Swinburne, who was resident here with his
family. The fort is regularly and well built, and
the defences are in excellent order, save that the
facing of the ditch, being of wood, is tumbling in
at most points, to the great danger of the found
ation. As this place is considered worthy a gar
rison, it would be as well that this ditch should
be faced with stone, in a way becoraing the other
defences, all of which appear to be built in the
best manner, and are in good preservation.
At three o'clock p. m. the steamer was an
nounced in sight, and we hastened to the little
wharf where the captain always lands to show
his clearance ; a matter of forra which is strictly
observed. The inhabitants, at least the civilians, were all
assembled on the wharf, for this arrival was the
event of the day. The little group was composed
of two or three oflficers' ladies, with their farailies.

JOURNAL. 335
Amongst these I noticed one pretty black-eyed
English girl, who I fancied looked after the boat
as it left the shore, and was whirled alongside the
steamer, with a mournful glance, wherein I read
the word horae written as plainly as I ever read
it in a book.
" I wish you were returning to your horae,
ray sweet girl," replied I, in the sarae language,
" and that I raight be your escort ; you should be
well and honestly guarded, at all events."
In a moment I was for ever sundered from
this object of my coraraiseration ; yet had my
eyes only been as expressive as hers, all I have
set down here might have been read therein.
Away we sped along the winding lake, turning
from shore to shore, now visiting one pretty
landing, now another ; a raode of proceeding that
is, amidst such scenery, perfectly delightful.
Saturday, 13th. — Breakfasted at Whitehall,
and took the middle line to Albany, traversing
a wild sterile country, over bad roads and worse
bridges, until we reached Sandy-hill, where the
noble Hudson bursts upon the view.
From this point to Albany the river is never
lost sight of; and a grateful sight the beautiful
stream afforded to a sun-dried, half-sraothered

336 JOURNAL.
traveller, to turn from the dusty track and con
template its cool waters and pleasant groves.
I sincerely pity the heart to ^which a drive, at
such a season, through this valley of the Hudson,
brings no gladness. Talk ofthe beauties ofthe
river frora New- York to Albany, when, after all,
it is here they are to be found ; here where its
waters are seen flowing between banks at tiraes
richly wooded, towering high and bold ; then
sinking suddenly, as they sweep for railes a con
tinuous line of natural meadows, whose rich
fringe of waving grass drinks for ever of the
passing stream.
In many of these places the country puts on a
park-like appearance, and you travel by hill and
dale and glance down trim-looking slopes, dotted
with irregular clumps of ornaraental trees of the
flnest foliage and of all kinds, frora the gracefiil
silver ash and the umbrageous butter-nut, to the
tall sombre-looking pine, and the wide-spreading
elm. The river itself is as changeful in its aspect as
the lovely country through which it flows; in
places its whole breadth is occupied by a stony
bed over which it leaps along, forraing for a mile
or so a gentle uniform rapid. At the next

JOURNAL. 337
turn it is seen freed from all impediment, mov
ing raajestically and slowly through deep-cut
banks, or circling round sorae little islet won
frora the neighbouring plain.
During our journey we crossed the canal which
runs near the river frequently, and the Hudson
itself twice, by flne covered bridges.
We also passed through several pretty towns ;
Schuylersville, a beautiful roraantic site ; Mecha
nicsviUe, a bustling thriving place, with a consi
derable population, and where I noticed a great
r^uraber of young girls of an appearance reraark
ably neat. It was Saturday afternoon, labour was
passed forthe week, and the street and neigh
bourhood presented an appearance most creditr
able to the operatives who are here congregated
in a lovely neighbourhood.
By the time we reached Waterford it was
dark : here we crossed the Hudson, near the
Cohoos' Falls ; and at Troy were ferried over,
back again, coach, horses, a waggon, and a
couple of oxen, in a schow, or flat boat, by
torchlight. Frora our last landing-place to Albany runs
a well Macadaraized road of noble proportions,
and on this our wearied horses appeared to gain
VOL. II. z

338 JOURNAL.
fresh courage, for they trotted along nimbly, set
ting me down at the door of the Eagle shortly
after midnight.
Sunday, lUh. — Down the Hudson to New
York, where I rested for a few days, intending
to erabark from this port ; but finding the ships
of every line crowded, and likely to be crowded
for sorae time to come, I decided, in company
with an excellent voyaging corapanion, who had
resolved upon sharing my fortunes, to proceed
to Philadelphia, and sail from that place, in the
Algonquin packet-ship of the 20th inst. which
proraised equal coraforts with fewer candidates;
the length of the Delaware raaking Philadelphia
less popular as a packet-station.

339

GENERAL IMPRESSIONS
OF THE COUNTRY
AND OF THE AMERICAN PEOPLE.
DEPARTURE.
" Nothing is more coraraon than to hear di
rectly opposite accounts of the sarae countries ;
the difference lies not in the reported but the
reporter." This observation is strictly correct
as a general application, but raore especially so
when directed to the United States of America,
its people, and its institutions, as viewed by
EngUshraen, whose prejudices, strong at all
times, and governing their opinions in all places,
are more absolutely freed frora restraint and self-
suspicion when set loose upon a people directly
descended frora theraselves, and inheriting and
retaining their customs and their language.
Discrepancies are here also occasioned in raany
cases by circumstances over which travellers can
z 2

3i0 GENERAL IMPRESSIONS.
have no control, and for whose influence they
are no way accountable ; hence things are very
differently described, not so rauch frora the re
porters having taken opposite views of the sarae
objects, but because objects theraselves are con
stantly and rapidly changing their aspects. —
Take the following as an instance.
I reraeraber to have read in one of our raost
distinguished publications a few years back a
laboured review of a book on Araerica, wherein
the writer found occasion to notice railroads ;
one of this kind being then in conteraplation
as an improved medium of communication be
tween New York and Philadelphia.
The able reviewer — for right able he was —
must have been either an American or one well
acquainted with the face of the country, its
trade, the people, their present' condition, and
future prospects, The statistics of the States in
question were at his finger-ends ; he produced
sound evidence in support of each proposition
he advanced ; and the arguraent thus sustained
went to prove, beyond aU doubt, that the spirit
of speculation was in this, as in raany other par7
ticulars, leading the American people to the
verge of madness, and their country to certain

GENERAL IMPRESSIONS. ' 341
bankruptcy. That in leaving their magnificent
lakes, their endless rivers, and the sraooth waters
of their coast, — the highways created by Provi
dence for their use, and amply suflficient for
their purposes — to waste their wealth, distract
their, commercial views, and agitate their politics
in the projection of railroads that could never
be completed, or, if corapleted even, would not
pay, in our time, the expense of repairs, or
endure the severity of the climate ; to construct
which the material must be imported from
England, and after every severe winter would
require to be renewed, was, in effect, quitting
the substance for the shadow, and, if begun in
folly, could not fail to end in ruin and disap
pointment, I never in my life perused any article more
philosophical in spirit or more conclusive ¦ in
arguraent; the scheme was clearly shown not
only to be absurd but irapracticable, and the
projectors proved either to be presuraptuous
imitators, or men profligately speculating upon
the ignorant credulity of their fellow-citizens,
I closed the review, in short, admiring the
clear judgment and practical farsightedness of
the writer; pitying the Yankees, for whom I

342 GENERAL IMPRESSIONS.
cherished a sneaking kindness, and inwardly
hoping that this very clever exposition of the
folly of their seeking to counteract the manifest
designs of Providence, which had so clearly de
monstrated their paths, might produce as full
conviction on their minds as it had on mine.
Well, I forgot the article and its subject,
and was only reminded of it by finding rayself
one fine day whisking along at the rate of
twenty miles an hour over a well-constructed
railway, one of a cargo of four hundred souls.
The impossibiHty bad, in fact, been achieved;
and, in addition to the natural roads offered
by Sea, Lake, and River, I found railways twin
ing and locomotives hissing like serpents over
the whole continent from Maine to Mississippi :
Binding the cold North to the ever-flowing
streams of Georgia and Alabama, literally, with
bonds of iron, and forraing, indeed, the natural
roads of a country whose soil and climate would
set at nought all the ingenuity of M'Adam,
backed by the wealth of Croesus and the flint of
Derbyshire to boot.
Now, had such a result been prognosticated only
a very few years back, the man whose foresight
had led to such a large view of the subject would

GENERAL IMPRESSIONS. 343
have been mouthed at as mad all over the Ame
rican continent, and written down knave or ass,
or both, in every practical journal of Europe.
Such great changes constantly agitated, and
reduced to practice with a promptitude of
which even England, with her wealth, indus
try, and enterprise, has little notion, make dis
crepancies between the facts and opinions of
rapidly succeeding travellers, for which neither
the veracity nor the judgment of the parties can
fairly be impugned.
Action here leaves speculation lagging far
behind ; the improvement once conceived is in
operation by such time as the opposing theorist
has satisfactorily demonstrated its impractica
bility ; and the dream of to-day is the reality
of to-morrow.
I feel, in fact, a difficulty in describing without
seeraing hyperbole the impressions I daily receiv
ed, and beheld conflrmed by facts, of the extra
ordinary spirit of movement that appears to im
pel men and things in this country; this great
hive wherein there be no drones; this field in
which every man finds place for his plough, and
where each hand seems actually employed either
" to hold or drive."

344 GENERAL IMPRESSIONS.
For ever wandering about as I was, and visit
ing, as I frequently did, the sarae places at inter
vals, again and again, I had occasion to be much
struck with a state of things of which I was thus
afforded constant evidence : take for instance,
Myfirst journey in Sept. 1833, between New
York and Philadelphia, was by steam-boat and
railway, having cars drawn by horses over thirty-
."five miles, which thus occupied five hours and
a half. In October of the same year I did the
sarae distance by locomotive in two hours. When
first I visited Boston, the journey was performed
in twenty-four hours, by steamer to Providence,
thence to Boston by stage ; the same distance
now occupies fifteen hours, a railway having
been last spring put in operation between Pro
vidence and Boston.
Again, in 1834, the traveller had but one rough
-route from Philadelphia to Pittsburg. You can
-now go a third of the distance by railroad, and,
•getting into a canal-boat, are dragged over the
Alleghany mountains, through a series of locks
not to be surpassed for strength or ingenuity of
contrivance. In 1833, the journey from Augusta, Georgia,
to New York was an affair of eleven or twelve

GENERAL IMPRESSIONS. 345
days ; it is now perforraed in three. Steaim and
railroad are, in fact, annihilating time and space
in this country. In proof of it, I can safely
assert that if a traveller visiting the South-west,
say, frora Savannah to New Orleans, will be at
the trouble of recollecting this book in the year
1837, he will find the account of the difficulties
of ray journey extremely amusing; since, irt all
human probability, he will perform that in five
days, which took me, with hard labour, perse
verance, discomfort, not to say, some peril of
life or limb, just eighteen.
It is these revolutions, and such as these, that
form the true wonders of this country ; that sti
raulate curiosity, excite interest, and well repay
the labour of any voyager erabued with a grain
of intelligence or observation, to say nothing of
philosophy. It is to these results, their causes, and their ira
raediate and probable effects, his mind's eye will
be irresistibly drawn, not to spitting-boxes, to
bacco, two-pronged forks, or other conventional
bagatelles, the particulars of each of which, as
a solecism in polite raanners, can be corrected
and canvassed by any waiter frora the London
Tavern, Ludgate Street, and by every grisette

346 GENERAL IMPRESSIONS.
from America Square to Brompton Terrace, who
may choose to display their acquired gentility
" for the nonce ;" and it is the absence of a spirit
of philosophy generally in our writers, and this
affectation of prating so like waiting-gentlewo
men, that stings Americans, and with some show
of reason, when they see the great labours of
their young country with the efforts ofits people
passed lightly by, and trifies caught up and
commented upon, whose iraportance they cannot
comprehend, and which they have neither lei
sure nor example to alter or attend to.
After rauch and close observation, I say fear
lessly, that, in aU conventional points:, good so
ciety in the States is equal to the best provincial
circles in England, The absence of a court, to
gether with the calls of business, necessarily pre
clude the possibility of any class acquiring that
grace of repose, that perfection of ease, which
cultivation, example, and a conscious knowledge
of the world gives to the beau-monde oiHuroi^e;
on the other hand, in the absence of this, you
are seldom pestered with the second-hand ladies'-
raaid airs of your pretenders to exclusive genti
lity, so common amongst Europeans,
The great mass of Americans are natural.

GENERAL IMPRESSIONS. 347
therefore rarely vulgar; and if a freshness of spi
rits, and an entire freedom from suspicion and the
many guards which ill-bred jealousy draws around
the objects of its care, may be viewed, as indeed
they ought to be, as proofs of high feeling and
true culture, then are the men of America arrived
at a point of civilization at once creditable to
themselves and honourable to their women, as
nothing can be more perfectly unrestrained than
the freedom enjoyed in all good farailies here.
Strangers once introduced fihd every house at
all times open to thera, and the raost frequent
visits neither create surprise nor give rise to
suspicion. Hospitality is inculcated and practised, and
the people entertain with a liberality bordering
on profuseness : the merit of this is enhanced by
the great trouble the absence of good domestics;
entails on the mistress of even the best establish
ments. Ladies are here invariably their own
housekeepers, yet, nowhere is the stranger more
warmly welcomed, and in no country is raore
cheerful readiness evinced in preparing for his
entertainraent. The hand of welcome is also extended and sym
pathy encouraged towards the persecuted, whe-

348 GENteRAL IMPRESSIONS,
ther of fortune or despotism. The exile is sure
to find shelter and security here, without encoun
tering suspicion, whether necessity or choice in
duced him to abandon his country.
Honoured be the land which offers to the
stranger a free participation, on equal terras, of
all it holds dearest ! Hallowed be the institutions
which hold out to talent a free field, and where
honest arabition knows no lirait save the equal
law! I shall ever love Araerica for the happy home it
has proVed to the provident araongst the exiles
from Ireland. In almost every part of the land,
they form an important portion of the freemen of
the soil. If, on becoming American, they have
not at all times ceased to be Irish in that full de
gree the political econoraist would desire, there
are raany allowances to be raade for them.
- Let it not be considered an unpardonable
enormity that the poor Irishraan runs a. little
riot when suddenly and wholly freed from the
heavy clog by which the exhibition of his opi
nions has been restrained at horae. It is not sur
prising that those who have been for life hood
winked should fail tb see clearly for themselves
in all cases; or that, falling upon interested
guides, they are occasionally led astray.

GENERAL IMPRESSIONS. 349
Wayward and wilful I will adrait them
sometimes to be, and in evil hands their rais-
directed energies raay for a tirae become the
instruments of evil. Mistaken in judgraent
they may often be, for such is the lot of huma
nity, but regardless of right and justice they
seldom are, and ungrateful or ungenerous they
cannot be. The evidence of their native spirit
of enterprise is found in their daily braving
destitution in the hope of bettering their hard
lot. Their hatred of oppression is proved by
their ill-directed, but constant struggles for
equal rights ; and, if kind-heartedness and cha
rity cover a multitude of sins, no people on
earth can justly claira a larger stock. In illus
tration of which I will present one proof out of
the raany I possess, because it will at once serve
as an illustration of ray assertion, arid gratify
those who< love to conteraplate the bright side of
poor huraanity.
The following statement was enclosied to me
by an excellent Quaker, one of the partners of
the house from whose books the document is
extracted, with a letter which I need not insert
here, but will add, that the statement is incon
trovertible. " From the 1st of January 1834, to the 1st

350 GENERAL IMPRESSIONS.
of May 1835, Abraham BeU and Co. of New
York have received from the working classes of
Irish emigrants, that is, frpm comraon labourers,
farm servants, chambermaids, waiters, &c. to
remit to their friends and kindred in Ireland,
the sum of fifty-five thousand dollars, in amount
varying from five dollars upwards. The average
araount of the whole nuraber of drafts sent is
twenty-eight and a half dollars each."
New York, May, 19th, 1835.
There is not a part of the country to which I
have Wandered, where I did not find that a like
gentle recollection of the destitute left at home
prevailed. In every large city is sorae one or
raore Irish house, which becoraes the popular
raedium through which these offerings of the
heart are transraitted to the raiserables at home.
When itis reflected that the donors are them
selves the poorest of the poor, and that often at
the close of their first sumraer, they are found
transraitting their earnings to sorae raother, or
aunt, or sister, without providing against or
thinking of the severity of approaching winter,
no eulogy can be too strong.
" Well, but look, David," remonstrated my
kind friend H  in New Orleans, to a poor

GENERAL IMPRESSIONS. 351
fellow who, after three months' hard labour,
brought him forty-five dollars to send home,
" let rae recommend you to keep back ten
dollars of this to buy yourself a warm coat;
we have a cold month coraing, man, and you are
ill off for covering,"
" It's true for ye, sir," cried Davy, scratch
ing his head, and glancing down at his ragged
garraents, " bud it's only for a raonth you'll be
havin' cowld here, and the poor crature at home
has a long winter to get over, and her as bare as
myself, and less able for id. The clothes .«ost a
heap o' money here, too, I find; and if you plase,
sir, in the name o' God, send all I have home,
and I '11 keep off the cowld, when it comes, by
workin' the harder."
Instances are constantly occurring of labourers,
landing at a good season, going to work though
hardly able from weakness, and at the end of
their first week bringing three or four dollars to
be sent home.
I will not multiply instances, as I might do,
nor need I offer further comment. I confess
freely that I have a pride in setting this much-
enduring class of my countryraen before the
English people, who, generous themselves, know

352 JOURNAL.
how to appreciate good in others. At these
times one page of fact is worth a volume of
unsupported eulogium. If the present short
statement contributes to promoting a kind
feeling towards a little known, although much
abused class, it will have accomplished the end
contemplated, and in doing this, will have served
all parties.
Friday, 19th. — rAfter passing four days with
my New York friends, on this morning, at six
A.M. descended from No. 1 ; and having bade
Mr. Willard a final adieu, quitted the City Hotel,
where, during raany coraings and goings, I had
always lodged, and where I had constantly ex
perienced the greatest attention.
Reached Philadelphia, in company with a few
kind friends, and found that the Algonquin had
that morning dropped down to Newcastle., Made
one or two calls, and early to bed.
Saturday, at six a.m, went on board the
steamer, and in a, couple of hours after got a
sight of our ship, at anchor near Newcastle,
where we arrived about nine a, m.
Whilst attending upon the arrangement of ray
baggage on the quay here, a little boy delivered
me a parcel. It was directed to me, with the
donor's compliments and good wishes.

JOURNAL. 353
On opening it, I found it contained a roll of
caricatures, together with one of the earliest jour
nals ever printed in Pennsylvania, and a couple
of copies of the latest journal started here, being
the first nuraber of a Newcastle journal that
very day published.
In an hour after, we embarked ; and this
attention of a stranger was the last kind act
of the raany courtesies which I have received
in this country, which I quit with the feelings
of a son of the soil. *
After dropping down as far as Delaw|ire city,
we anchored for the tide. As it blew fresh, our
pilot determined not to weigh before daylight.
Sunday 21st. — On coming from between decks
found that we were well out in the bay, a
schooner standing for us to take our pilot. I
descended to the cabin to write a note or two,
and found rayself alraost involuntarily scribbling
verses. 'Tis an odd freak of ray fancy, that
although never addicted to poetizing, and ordi
narily incapable of manufacturing a couplet that
will jingle even, I am rarely agitated by any
strong feeling, without having a sort of desire to
rhyme ; luckily the delusion is exceedingly short
lived, and unfrequent in its visitations. The
VOL. II. 2 A

354 JOURNAL.
reader shall, however, have all the benefit of ray
present atterapt, as I feel bound to treat him,
who may have held on with me thus far, with
perfect confidence. ADIEU.
Written on board Packet Ship Algonquin, Captain Cheney —
Bay of Delaware—-pilot about to quit ihe ship — two p. m. —
June '21st, 1833.
Adieu, Colurnbia! I have mark'd thee well,
Nor yet for ever do I leave thee now ;
And busy thoughts of thee my bosom swell,
And thronging recollections load my brow :
I 've prerced, from North to South, thy eternal woods,
Have dream'd in fair St. Lawrence' sweetest isle ;*
Have breasted Mississippi's hundred floods,
And woo'd, on Alleghany's top, Aurora's smile.
And now we part ! The ship % flying fast,
Her pathway deck'd with whirling wreaths of foam ;
And all the swelling sails that bend each mast
Obey the flag, which, fluttering, points to " Home ! " ¦
Home I home! that tender word let me retrace,
And bid each letter conjure o'er the sea
Some cherish'd wish, and every well-loved face,
To banish thought of those from whom I flee.
Yet shame I not to bear an o'er-full heart,
Nor blush to turn behind my tearful eyes :
'Tis from no stranger-land I now depart :
'Tis to no strangers left I yield these sighs.
* St. Helen's.

JOURNAL. 355
Welcome and home were mine within the land
Whose sons I leave, whose fading shore I see ;
And cold must be mine eyes, and heart, and hand,
When, fair Columbia ! they turn cold to thee.
At three p.m. our pilot quitted us ; by four we
had lost sight of the coast of Jersey, and, with a
flowing sheet, were bounding over the Atlantic.
Except , a week's bad weather on the Banks of
Newfoundland, this was a most delightful pas
sage. No ship could be better found than the
Algonquin, and no man more solicitpus about
the comfort of his passengers than the excellent
Captain Cheney.
On July the 14th we made Cape Clear ; and
on the 16th I once raore entered the Mersey,
about the sarae hour, arid ori the same day of
the month, in which I had left it two years be
fore ; and to make the coincidence more strik
ing, we passed the Europe, in which I had gone
out, so close, as she quitted the harbour, that
our letters for America were tossed on board.

2 A 2

APPENDIX.

The following extracts frora Reports of the
War Minister, and of the Indian Department,
can hardly fail to prove interesting, as they de
scribe correctly the condition of this people, and
the care taken for their future security by the
American Governraent. The Reports are au
thentic, and are taken frora an excellent work,
the National Calendar for the Year 1835.
REPORT OF the SECRETARY OF WAR.
Sie, Since my last annual report, no military move
ment of any importance, with the exception of the expedi
tion of the regiment of dragoons, has been rendered ne
cessary. It is known to you that some of the Western tribes of
Indians, roaming through the extensive prairies west of
Arkansas and Missouri, particularly the Camanches and
Kiowas, have, for some years, interrupted the peace of
that quarter, by predatory attacks upon our citizens, and
upon the indigenous and emigrant Indians whom we are
under obligations to protect. Their war parties have an
noyed our citizens in their intercourse with the Mexican
States, and have rendered the communication difficult and

358 APPENDIX.
hazardous. It became necessary to put a stop to this
state of things, either by amicable representations, or by
force. Those remote tribes have little knowledge ofthe
strength of the United States, or of their own relative
weakness ; and it was hoped that the display of a respect
able military force for the first time in their country,
would satisfy them that further hostilities would lead to
their destruction. The dragoons, being peculiarly adapted
to this service, weie ordered to penetrate into that region,
and to endeavour, by peaceable remonstrances, to establish
permanent tranquillity ; and, if these should fail, to repel
any hostile demonstrations which might be made. Fortu
nately, the efforts to introduce amicable relations were suc
cessful, and the object of the expedition was obtained,
"without a single act of hostility. Colonel Dodge, who led
' the expedition, and his whole command, appear to have
performed their duties in the most satisfactory manner ;
and they encountered with firmness the privations incident
to the harassing service upon which they were ordered.
It is to be regretted that the prevalence of sickness pre
vented the whole regiment from joining in this duty, as
the same zeal for the public interest pervaded the whole.
That sickness deprived the country of some valuable lives,
and, among others, of Brigadier General Leavenworth.
Impelled by his anxiety to forward the views of the go
vernment, he exposed himself, while yet weak, to the
hardships of a border campaign, and sunk under the ma
lady which these induced. His high personal character,
his services during the late war, and his exemplary official
conduct since, are too well known to you to require from
me anything more than this brief allusion to his worth
and fate.

APPENDIX. 359
The commission for the adjustment of unsettled re
lations with the Indians west of the Mississippi, termi
nated by the provisions of the act instituting it, in July
last. Important benefits have resulted from the labours
of the commissioners in the adjustment of difficult ques
tions connected with the Indians of that region, and in the
treaty arrangements which have been entered into by them.
The country assigned for the permanent residence of the
eastern Indians has been so apportioned among them, that
little difficulty is anticipated from conflicting claims, or
from doubtful boundaries ; and, both in quality and ex
tent, there can be no doubt but that the region allotted to
them will be amply sufficient for their comfortable sub
sistence during an indefinite period of time.
An important council has been held at Fort Gibson, by
Colonel Dodge, and by Major Armstrong, the superin
tendent of Indian affiiirs, with the chiefs of several of the
tribes of that quarter, including some of the wandering
bands, whose predatory operations have heretofore kept
the frontier in alarm. At this council, the situation of the
Indians was fully discussed, and amicable relations esta
blished. It is to be hoped that the feelings with which
they separated will be permanent, and their intercourse
hereafter uninterrupted.
The united tribe of Pottawatamies, Ottawas, and Chip
pewas, possessing the country in the vicinity of Chicago,
have conditionally acceded to the alteration proposed' in
the boundaries of the tract assigned for them west of the
Mississippi, by the treaty concluded in 1883. Should
their proposition be accepted, an extensive and valuable
region will be opened for settlement, and they will be re
moved to a district whose climate is suitable to their ha-

360 APPENDIX.
bits, and whose other advantages cannot fail to offer them
strong inducements for moral and physical improvement.
An arrangement has been made with the Miamies for
the cession of a part of their reservation in the State of
Indiana. The tracts held by them are far more extensive
than they require ; and as they appear to be not yet pre
pared for removal, this relinquishment, without injuring
them, will relieve the State, in some measure, from the
emba^assment caused by such large reservations as they
possess, embracing a most valuable part of the country,
and interrupting the settlements and communication.
Instructions were given, immediately after the last ses
sion of Congress, for purchasing from the Wyandots in
Ohio, if they were disposed to sell, the reservation secured
to them in that state, and for their removal to the west.
The commissioner, Govemor Lucas, conducted the negoti
ation with great fairness and propriety, fully explaining to
the Indians their own position, the wishes of the govem
ment, and the course of circumstances urging their re
moval. The matter is not yet terminated, the Indians
having requested time for further consideration.
The necessary appropriations will be asked for the re
moval of the Seminoles, agreeably to the treaty formed
with them ; and arrangements have been made for the emi
gration of the Creeks, as fast as they are prepared for a
change of residence. There has not yet been sufficient
time to ascertain the result of these measures.
I am not able to submit to you any more favourable
views of the condition of the Cherokees than were em
braced in my last annual report. While every dictate of
prudence, and, in feet, of self-preservation, urges their re-

APPENDIX. ,361
*
moval, unhappy councils and internal divisions prevent the
adoption of that course. Where they are, they are de
clining, and must decline ; while that portion of the tribe
which is established in the west, is realizing the benefits
which were expected to result from a change of position.
The system of removal, however, by enrolment, is going
on, and during this season about one thousand persons
have passed to the west.
The treaty concluded the 24th of May last, with the
Chickasaws, has altered the relations in which they were
placed with the United States. The proceeds derivable
from a portion of their present possessions have been as
signed to them, and reservations have also been provided for
such as choose to become citizens of the United States.
Their future condition now depends upon their own views
and experience, as they have a right to remain or remove,
in conformity with their own judgment. The means
placed at their disposal are fully adequate to their perma
nent comfortable establishment, and it is to be sincerely
hoped that they will apply them wisely.
The acts of the last session of Congress, on the subject
of Indian affairs, have introduced important changes into
those relations. Many of the provisions of former laws
had become inappropriate or inadequate, and not suited
to the changes which time and circumstances had made.
In the act regulating the intercourse with the various
tribes, the principles of intercommunication with them are
laid down, and the necessary details provided. In that for
the re-organization of the department, the number of offi
cers employed has been much reduced, and the current ex
penses diminished.

362. APPENDIX.
Any changes which experience may shoyr to be neces
sary in these acts, can from time to time be provided, until
they shall become fully adapted to the situation and condi
tion of the Indians, and to the intercourse, both commer
cial and political, whicli ought to exist between them and
our govemment and citizens. The system of removal has
changed essentially the prospects of the emigrants, and has
imposed new obligations upon the United States. A vast
tract of country, containing much more than one hundred
millions of acres, has been set apart for the permanent
residence of these Indians, and already about thirty thou
sand have been removed to it. The govemment is under
treaty stipulations to remove nearly fifty thousand others
to the same region, including the Illinois and Lake Michi
gan Indians, with whom a conditional arrangement has
been made. This extensive district, embracing a great
variety of soil and climate, has bepn divided among the
several tribes, and definite boundaries assigned to each.
They will there be brought into juxta-position "with one an
other, and also into contact, and possibly into collision,
with the native tribes of that country ; and it seems highly
desirable that some plan should be adopted for the regula
tion of the intercourse among these divided communities,
and for the exercise of a general power of supervision over
them, so far as these objects can be effected consistently
with the power of Congress, and with the various treaty
stipulations existing with them. It is difficult, indeed, to
conceive how, peace can be preserved, and the guaranty of
protection held out to the eastern Indians fulfilled, with
out some legislative provision upon this subject.
Lew. Cass.

APPENDIX. 363
CONDITION OF THE ARMY.
Extract from, the Report of the Major-General of the
Army.
Since my last annual report, the five companies of the
regiment of dragoons, which remained to be raised, have
been recruited ; and, after having been organized at Jeffer
son barracks, they took up their march to Fort Gibson,
where the head-quarters of the regiment were established,
preparatory to entering the Indian country, in conformity
to your instructions.
In consequence of the lateness of the arrival of these
companies at Fort Gibson, and a variety of unforeseen dif
ficulties in obtaining the proper arms and equipments for
the regiment, the movement to the west was delayed until
the 15th of June.
In the mean time. General Leavenworth, who had been
appointed to the command of the troops on the westem
frontier, south of the northern boundary of the State of
Missouri, detached one company of that regiment as an
escort to the caravan of traders to Santa Fe, in Mexico.
He also employed detachments of the third and seventh
regiments of infantry in opening roads between the posts ¦
on the Arkansas and Red rivers, and in establishing new
posts beyond the settlements of the emigrated Indians, for
the purpose of facilitating the movements ofthe expedi
tion, and covering the country occupied by those Indians,
in the event of a failure to secure a friendly intercourse
with the wild tribes inhabiting the country beyond them.
These arrangements having been made, the expedition,
consisting of nine companies, under Colonel Dodge, was
put in motion, accompanied by a deputation from the se-

364 APPENDIX.
veral tribes of friendly Indians, to act as guides and inter
preters, and to aid in bringing about a general good under
standing between the several nations ; and in order that
the friendly intercourse might be further promoted, two
Indian girls, the one a Pawnee, and the other a Kiowa,
who had been captured by the Osages, also accompanied
the expedition for the purpose of being delivered to their
friends. Owing to the sickness which prevailed among the troops,
the command, on reaching the river Washita, about one
hundred and eighty miles west of Fort Gibson, was so
much reduced as to render a re-organization of the com
panies necessary. Colonel Dodge accordingly, out of the
effective force,, formed six companies, each forty-two strong,
and, under instructions from General Leavenworth, conti
nued his march to the Pawnee village, situated on a branch
of the Red river. Here Colonel Dodge held a council
with the Camanches, the Pawnees, (or Toyaslas,) the
Kiowas, and the deputation of Indians which accompanied
him, amounting in all to about two thousand persons. He
explained the object of the expedition, and was instrumen
tal in bringing about a friendly intercourse between several
hostile tribes. He also obtained the surrender of the son
ofa Mr. Martin, an American citizen, who had been mur
dered by the Indians, and of a black bc*y captured by
them. A more particular account ofthe interview between
Colonel Dodge and the assembled tribes will be found in
the journal of the expedition, annexed to this report.
After delivering the two Indian girls to their parents.
Colonel Dodge, accompanied by several of the chiefs of the
Camanches, Pawnees, and Kiowas, returned with his com-

APPENDIX. 365
mand to Fort Gibson, whence the regiment proceeded to
take up the positions previously fixed on. Four com
panies, under Colonel Dodge, marched to Fort Leaven
worth, on the Missouri; three companies, under Lieu
tenant-colonel Kearney, to the Des Moines ; and three,
under Major Mason, to a point on the Arkansas, about
eighty miles above Fort Gibson. These companies have
arrived at their destinations, and are engaged in preparing
theit winter quarters. INDIAN AFFAIRS.
Operations under the Indian Department during the
year 1834.
Measures have been adopted for the execution of the
several treaties with the Cherokees, Creeks, Seminoles,
Appalachicolas, Quapaws, the united bands of Otoes and
Missourias of the river Platte, and the four confederated
bands of Pawnees of the Platte and the Loup Fork, all
of which were ratified at the last session of Congress. Pre
paratory steps have also been taken for the removal of the
Creeks and Seminoles, and it is expected that a consider
able portion of those tribes will be removed beyond the
Mississippi during the ensuing season, and find a happier
home in the domains set apart for their residence, under
the guaranty of the United States.
In pursuance of instructions from the department, Ge
neral William Marshall, Indian agent for the Miamies,
opened a negotiation recently with the chiefs of that tribe,
for the purchase of their land in the State of Indiana. He
has succeeded in procuring from them a cession of two
hundred thousand acres, on terms advantageous to then*-

366 APPENDIX.
selves, and the United States. It may be considered the
precursor to a total cession of their remaining land in that
State, and their consequent emigration to the western ter
ritory ; a result desirable in many respects, especially con
nected with advantages to a portion of our citizens, and
¦ doubly gratifying from its being compatible with the best
interests of the tribe.
The alteration proposed by a resolution of the Senate
at the last session of Congress, in the boundaries of the
land granted by the Chicago treaty of 1883 to the united
nation of Chippewa, Ottawa, and Pottawatamie Indians,
has received their assent under certain modifications, speci
fied in their agreement of the 1st of October last.
No material alteration has taken place during the past
year in the condition of the Cherokees. The question of
emigration finds them still divided, and a considerable por
tion appear to be insensible of the manifest benefits ac
cruing from its adoption. Without tolerable unanimity,
it is impossible to proceed with it advantageously to all
parties interested in the general issue. In the mean time,
the division has engendered much malignancy, and the op
posing parties appear to evince a rancour bordering on hos
tility. Occasionally their animosity has broken out into
acts of violence, and, in one instance, resulted in the death
of a very meritorious and much regretted individual. On
his return from their National Council at Red Clay, in
August last, where the question of emigration was agitated
in a tumultuous and excited meeting, John Walker, jun.
one of their leading men friendly to its adoption, was way
laid and shot. The necessary orders for the arrest of the
assassins were promptly issued by Govemor Carroll, the
present executive of Tennessee. Several persons are now

APPENDIX. 367
in confinement on a charge of having taken part in the
murder. Should the occasion call for it, the military will
be ordered out for the protection of those who decide on
emigration, and of the emigrating officers of the govern
ment engaged in this hazardous and responsible service.
A negotiation has been commenced by Govemor Lu
cas, of Ohio, with the band of Wyandots in that State,
for a cession of their remaining land, and their removal to
the west of the Mississippi ; and recent communications
furnish strong grounds of belief that under his judicious
management it will be eventually brought t6 a successful
close. The expedition to the far West, under the command of
General Leavenworth, undertaken in compliance with
orders from the War Department, for the objects therein
detailed, proceeded on its route through regions almost
unknown, and amid difficulties of the most perplexing
nature. In consequence of the death of that brave and
lamented officer while in the performance of duty, the
command devolved on Colonel Dodge, who retumed with
the expedition to Fort Gibson, bringing along a number
of the chiefs ofthe Pawnee and Kioway Indians, — bold and
warHke tribes, who have entertained no very friendly feelings
towards our citizens, between whom and them there had
hitherto been but little intercourse. These tribes being
borderers on the newly occupied Indian territories, it be
came imperative to repress their hostile disposition, under
the guaranty of the United States to afford adequate pro
tection to the emigrating Indians.
With the view of establishing pacific relations between
these and other tribe's, a general council was held under
the auspices of Colonel Dodge and Major F. W. Arm-

368 APPENDIX.
strong, which resulted in mutual engagements of peace
and friendship, fortified by proper intimations on the part
of those officers, on behalf of their govemment, of support
to the injured, and punishment to aggressors.
At the general council, impressive speeches were deli
vered by several chiefs of the Creek, Cherokee, Osage, and
Choctaw tribes. In their addresses to the warlike chiefs
then assembled, they took occasion substantially to ob
serve, " that their people had opened their ears to the advice
which had been given to them, and adopted the habits ofthe
white man, and that by so doing they had become peacefril,
prosperous, and happy ; that they had relinquished the
chase, and cultivated the earth, and that by becoming
agricultural they lived in peace, and in the enjoyment of
abundance ; and that the same inestimable benefits would
assuredly await all the tribes who would walk in the same
path." The duties and services of the commissioners west have
closed by the expiration of their commission, according to
the provisions of the act under which they were appointed.
Great benefit has resulted to the various tribes by virtue
of their mission. Important treaties were concluded by
them, existing divisions were healed, difficulties that
threatened collision were settled, and a spirit of peace and
conciliation was infused among the Indians through their
instrumentality. There is little mention to be made of Indian hostilities
during the past year : they have been few, and those not
of an aggravated nature. A steady and onward course is
observable among the Indian tribes towards the grand
point of civilization. Their long imputed indomitable

APPENDIX. 369
spirit of revenge, and their eager thirst for war, have un
dergone a sensible change in the process of meliorating
circumstances. The happiest consequences may be anti
cipated from extending the raeans of tuition among their
young people, from the introduction of mechanical arts
into the different tribes, and from the increased attention
bestowed on agricultural pursuits, under the patronage of
government, throughout the territories of emigration ; nor
can the gratuitous but useful labours of the missionary,
and the inculcation of the pure doctrines of Christianity, be
overlooked in the enumeration of means that are conducing
to the great end so precious in the sight of the philanthro
pist, and so dear to the finest sympathies of our nature —
the transformation from the cold and barren confines of
savage life to the sunny and fertile regions of civilization
and religion.

INDIAN SCHOOLS.
The annual donation to the Baptist General Conven
tion is 2,000 dol. ; to the American Board of Foreign
Missions, 2,200 dol. ; to the Roman Catholic Church,
1,300 dol. ; to the Methodist Episcopal Church, 400 dol.
Other donations are made, upon representations entitled to
favourable consideration.
The number of Indian children receiving instruction at
the different schools is eighteen hundred.- Exclusively of
these, there are one hundred and fifty-six Indian scholars
at the Choctaw academy in Kentucky, the expense of
whose education is defrayed from funds appropriated by
the Indians themselves, under treaty provisions with dif-
VOL. II. 2 B

370

APPENDIX.

ferent tribes for this particular object. The flourishing
condition of this academy furnishes the best evidence of
the sound views and philanthropio motives of those with
whom it originated, and leaves the question of Indian im
provement in letters and morals upon the social basis no
longer doubtful.
Statement, showing the number of Indian Schools, where
established, by whom, the number of teachers and pupils,
and the amount allo-wed by the Government.

Names of triies.

By whom established.

it

it

II

Mohegan, Connecticut,

]

22

500

*Senecas, New Yovk,

Baptist Gen'l Convention

4

140

200

Tuscaroras, do.

do. do.

2

71

*Ottawas, Michigan Territory

do. do.

3

40

450

Chippewas, do.

do. do.

3

48

*Cherokees, North Carolina,

do. do.

2

21

600

Menomonies, Michigan,

Protestant Episcl. Church,

5

66

500

Winnebagoes, do. ~i

Menomonies, do. >
Catholic Church,
3
150
1000
Ottawas, do. J
Shawauees west of Mississippi,
Methodist Episcl. Church,
3
27
Delawares, do.
do. do.
2
23
Peorias , do.
do. do.
2
18
Kickapoos, do.
do. do.
2
70
Cherokees, do.
Baptist Gen'l Convention,
2
25
tCreeks, do.
do. do.
4
38
721
* The Convention also support one district school among the Ottawas
and Cherokees, and three among the Senecas.
t Tw6 of these teachers are natives.
APPENDIX.

371

Statement showing the amount and disposition of the
funds provided by treaties for purposes of education.

Tribes.

Miamies, Pottawatamies, Do.Do.

Chippewas,
Chippewas, Menom- "i
onies, &c. /
Menomonies, Sacs, Foxes, & others,
Kickapoes,
Shawanees&Delawa's,Choctaws,Creeks, east,
Cherokees, west,
Floridas,Creeks,Quapaws,
Otoes and Missourias
Pawnees, Chickasaws,

Date of treaty. Ampunt. Disposition of the funds.

Oct.Oct. Sept.Oct.Sept. Sept. Aug.Feb.
JulyOct.Oct.Sept.Mar.May
Sept. Feb.
May
Sept.
Oct.May

23, 16,
20,27,15,24, 11, 8,
15,
24,
26, 27, 24, 6,
18,
14, 13,
21, 9,
24,

1826
1826
1828 183218321819 1827 1831
1830 1822
18321830 18321828
1823
1833 183318331833
1834

2,000 00
2,000 00
1,000 00
2,000 00
3,000 00
1,000 00
1,500 00

500
3,000 500
500
12,500 3,0002,000 1,0001,0001,000 500
1,000
3,000

Choctaw AcaJemv.
do.do.do.
School, Prairie du Chien,
Baptist Gen. Convention,
Protestant Epis. Church.
do.
Choctaw Academy.
school in the nation.
do.do.
Choctaw Academy.
School in the nation.
Choctaw -Academy.
do.
Not disposed of.
do.do.
Choctaw Academy.

These tables exhibit the number of teachers and pupils
at the schools, of the condition of which reports have been
received. In all of them instruction is imparted in reading, writ
ing, arithmetic, and geography. At many of them the
boys axe initiated in branches of the mechanic arts, and
cultivate the soil. At the Tuscarora station, jn New
York, tuition is imparted on the plan adopted for infant
schools, and with marked success. The temperance so
ciety contains eighty members, the sabbath school thirty
pupils, and fifty are united to the church. The children
at the Mohegan school, in Connecticut, are employed on
farms cultivated by natives : others of the youth of this
band enter on board the ships in the whale fishery : and,
as an indication of a spirit of enterprise and industry, the
2 B 2

372 APPENDIX.
wish of Some to cultivate the mulberry-tree, with a view to
the establishment of a silk manufactory, may be cited.
The American Board of Foreign Missions propose to
print at the Union station, in the Cherokee country west
of the Mississippi, books in the languages of the Che
rokees, Creeks, Choctaws, and Osages ; and the Rev. Mr.
M'Coy, under the auspices of the Baptist General Con
vention, has issued proposals for publishing a semi-monthly
periodical at the Shawanee mission, three hundred miles
west of St. Louis. Several books have been printed at
this press in the languages of the different tribes. The
object of Mr. M'Coy and his associates is to furnish his
torical sketches of past, and notices of present occurrences,
including the transactions of the general govemment and
of societies.
The Choctaw academy, in Kentucky, contains one hun
dred and fifty-six pupils ; this number will be increased
by fifteen Chickasaws, as the chiefs of that tribe have
recently requested their education money might be ex
pended at this institution. The inspectors, in their last
report, represent the academy to be in a highly prosperous
condition ; the buildings erected to be upon a plan conve
nient and economical ; the provision made for the comfort
and health of the scholars to be liberal ; and the care taken
to promote their moral .and intellectual advancement kind
and parental. The buildings and school apparatus are
valued at eight, thousand dollars. The cost of winter
clothing for each scholar is estimated at forty-six dollars
and twenty-two cents, of the summer clothing at thirty-one
dollars and eighty-six cents. This academy, conducted
judiciously, will, at no distant day, send forth scholars

APPENDIX. 373
competent to teach others, and thus accomplish the object
of Congress, indicated by its legislation at the last session.
Upon the recommendation of two members of Congress,
aid has been rendered to Morris B. Pierce, a Seneca, who
is now at Thetford academy, Vermont, fitting himself to
enter Dartmouth college, in New Hampshire.

An Act to regulate trade and intercourse with the Indian
Tribes, and to preserve peace on the frontiers.
Sec. 1. Be it enacted by the Senate and Iiouse of Re-
presentatives of the United States of America, in Congress
assembled. That all that part of the United States west
of the Mississippi, and not within the States of Missouri
and Louisiana, or the Territory of Arkansas, and also that
part of the United States east of the Mississippi river,
and not within any state to which the Indian title has
not been extinguished, for the purposes of this act, be
taken and deemed to be the Indian country.
Sec. 2. And be it further enacted. That no person shall
be permitted to trade with any of the Indians (in the
Indian country) without a licence therefor from a super
intendent of Indian affairs, or Indian agent or sub-agent,
which licence shall be issued for a term not exceeding two
years for the tribes east of the Mississippi, and not ex
ceeding three years for the tribes west of that river : and
the person applying for such licence shall give bond in
a penal sum not exceeding five thousand dollars, with one
or more sureties, to be approved by the person issuing the
same, conditioned that such person will faithfully observe
all the laws and regulations made for the government of

374 APPENDIX.
trade and intercourse with the Indian tribes, and in no
respect violate the same. And the superintendent of the
district shall have power to revoke and cancel the same,
whenever the person licensed shall, in his opinion, have
transgressed any of the laws or regulations provided for
the government of trade and intercourse with the Indian
tribes, or that it would be improper to permit him to
remain in the Indian country ; and no trade with the said
tribes shall be carried on within their boundary, except at
certain suitable and convenient places, to be designated
from time to time by the superintendents, agents, and
sub-agents, and to be inserted in the licence ; and it shall
be the duty of the persons granting or revoking such li
cences, forthwith to report the same to the Commissioner
of Indian Affairs, for his approval or disapproval.
Sec. 8. And be it further enacted. That any super
intendent or agent may refuse an application for a licence
to trade, if he is satisfied that the applicant is a person of
bad character, or that it would be improper to permit
him to reside in the Indian country, or if a licence pre
viously granted to such applicant has been revoked, or a
forfeiture of his bond decreed. But an appeal may be
had from the agent or the superintendent, to the Com
missioner of Indian Affairs; and the President of the
United States shall be authorized, whenever in his opinion
the public interest may require the same, to prohibit the
introduction of goods, or of any particular article, into the
country belonging to any Indian tribe, and to direct all
licences to trade with such tribe to be revoked, and all
applications therefor to be rejected ; and no trader to any
other tribe shall, so long as such prohibition may continue,

APPENDIX. 375
trade with any Indians of or for the tribe against which
such prohibition is issued.
Sec. 4. And be it further enacted, That any person
other than an Indian who shall attempt to reside in the
Indian country as a trader, or to introduce goods, or to
trade therein without such licence, shall forfeit all mer
chandize offered for sale to the Indians, or found in
his possession, and shall moreover forfeit and pay the
sum of five hundred dollars.
Sec. 5. And be it further enacted, That no licence
to trade with the Indians shall be granted to any persons
except eitizens of the United States : Provided, That
the President shall be authorized to allow the employ
ment of foreign boatmen and interpreters, under such
regulations as he may prescribe.
Sec. 6. And be it further enacted, That if a foreigner
shall go into the Indian country without a passport fi'om
the War Department, the superintendent, agent, or sub-
agent of Indian affairs, or from the officer of the United
States commanding the nearest military post on the fron
tiers, or shall remain intentionally therein after the ex
piration of such passport, he shall forfeit and pay the sum
of one thousand dollars ; and such passport shall express
the object of such person, the time he is allowed to re*-
main, and the route he is to travel.
Sec. 7. And be it further enacted. That if ariy person
other than an Indian shall, within the Indian country,
purchase or receive of any Indian, in the way of barter,
trade, or pledge, a gun, trap, or other article commonly
used in hunting, any instrmnent of husbandry or cooking
utensils of the kind commonly obtained by the Indians in

376 APPENDIX.
their intercourse with the white people, or any other
article of clothing except skins or furs, he shall forfeit
and pay the sum of fifty dollars.
Sec. 8. And be it further enacted. That if any person
other than an Indian shall, within the limits of any tribe
with whom the United States shall have existing treaties,
hunt, or trap, or take and destroy, any peltries or game,
except for subsistence, in the Indian country, such person
shall forfeit the sum of five hundred dollars," and forfeit
all the traps, guns, and ammunition in his possession, used
or procured to be used for that purpose, and peltries so
taken. Sec. 9. And be it further enacted. That if any person
shall drive, or otherwise convey, any stock of horses,
mules, or cattle, to range and feed on any land belonging
to an Indian or Indian tribe without the consent of such
tribe, such person shall forfeit the sum of one dollar for
each animal of such stock.
Sec. 10. And be it further enacted. That the super
intendent of Indian affairs, and Indian agents and sub-
agents, shall have authority to remove from the Indian
country all persons found therein contrary to law ; and the
President of the United States is authorized to direct the
military force to be employed in such removal.
Sec. 11. And be it further enacted. That if any
person shall make a settlement on any lands belonging,
secured, or granted by treaty with the United States to
any Indian tribe, or shall survey or shall attempt to sur
vey such lands, or designate any of the boundaries by
marking trees or otherwise, such offender shall forfeit
and pay the sum of one thousand dollars. And it shall,

APPENDIX. 377
moreover, be lawful for the President of the United States
to take such measures, and to employ such military force,
as he may judge necessary to remove from the lands
as aforesaid any such person as aforesaid.
Sec. 12. And be it further enacted. That no purchase,
grant, lease, or other conveyance of lands, or of any title or
claim thereto, from an Indian nation or tribe of Indians,
shall be of any validity in law or equity, unless the same
be made by treaty or convention entered into pursuant to
the constitution. And if any person, not employed under
the authority of the United States, shall attempt to nego
tiate such treaty or convention, directly or indirectly, to
treat with any such nation or tribe of Indians for the title
or purchase of any lands by them held or claimed, such
person shall forfeit and pay one thousand dollars : Pro
vided, nevertheless, That it shall be lawful for the agent or
agents of any state who may be present at any treaty held
with Indians under the authority ofthe United States, in
the presence and with the approbation of the commissioner
or commissioners of the United States appointed to hold
the same, to propose to and adjust with the Indians the
compensation to be made for their claim to lands within
such state which shall be extinguished by treaty.
Sec. 18. And be it further enacted. That if any citi
zen, or other person residing within the United States or
the territory thereof, shall send any talk, speech, message,
or letter to any Indian nation, tribe, chief, or individual,
with an intent to produce a contravention or infraction of
any treaty or other law of the United States, or to disturb
the peace and tranquillity of the United States, he shall
forfeit and pay the sum of two thousand dollars.

378 APPENDIX.
Sec. 14. And be it further enacted. That if any citi
zen, or other person, shall carry or deliver any such talk,
message, speech, or letter, to or from any Indian nation,
tribe, chief, or individual, from or to any person or per
sons whatsoever residing within the United States, or
from or to any subject, citizen, or agent of any foreign
power or state, knowing the contents thereof, he shall for
feit and pay the sum of one thousand dollars.
Sec. 15. And be it further enacted, That if any citi
zen or other person residing or living among the Indians,
or elsewhere, within the territory of the United States,
shall carry on a correspondence, by letter or otherwise,
with any foreign nation or power, with an intent to induce
such foreign nation or power to excite any Indian nation,
tribe, chief, or individual to war against the United
States, or to the violation of any existing treaty ; or in
case any citizen or other person shall alienate, or attempt
to alienate, the confidence of any Indian or Indians from
the govemment of the United States, he shall forfeit the
sum of one thousand dollars.
Sec. 16. And be it further enacted. That where, in
the commission, by a white person, of any crime, offence,
or misdemeanor, within the Indian country, the property of
any friendly, Indian is taken, injured, or destroyed, and a
conviction is had for such crime, offence, or misdemeanor,
the person so convicted shall be sentenced to pay to such
friendly Indian to whom the property may belong, or
whose person may be injured, a sum equal to twice the
just value of the property so taken, injured, or destroyed.
And if such offender shall be unable to pay a sum at least
equal to the just value or amount, whatever such payment

APPENDIX. 379
shall fall short of the same shall be paid out of the trea
sury of the United States : Provided, That no such In
dian shall be entitled to any payment, out of the treasury
of the United States, for any such property, if he, or any
of the nation to which he belongs, shall have sought pri
vate revenge, or attempted to obtain satisfaction by any
force or violence : And provided also. That if such of
fender cannot be apprehended and brought to trial, the
amount of such property shall be paid out of the treasury,
as aforesaid.
Sec. 17. And be it further enacted. That if any In
dian or Indians, belonging to any tribe in amity with the
United States, shall, within the Indian country, take or
destroy the property of any person lawfully within such
country, or shall pass from the Indian country into any
state or territory inhabited by citizens of the United
States, and there take, steal, or destroy any horse, horses,
or other property belonging to any citizen or inhabitant of
the United States, such citizen or inhabitant, his repre
sentative, attorney, or agent, may make application to the
proper superintendent, agent, or sub-agent, who, upon
being furnished with the necessary documents and proofs,
shall, under the direction of the President, make applica
tion to the nation or tribe to which said Indian or In
dians shall belong, for satisfaction ; and if such nation or
tribe shall neglect or refuse to make satisfaction in a rea
sonable time, not exceeding twelve months, it shall be the
duty of such superintendent, agent, or sub-agent, to make
return of his doings to the Commissioner of Indian affairs,
that such furtlier steps may be taken as shall be proper, in
the opinion of the President, to obtain satisfaction for the

380 APPENDIX.
injury ; and, in the mean time, in respect to the property
so taken, stolen, or destroyed, the United States gua
ranty to the party so injured an eventual indemnifica
tion : Provided, That if such injuted party, his repre
sentative, attorney, or agent, shall, in any way violate any
of the provisions of this act, by seeking or attempting to
obtain private satisfaction or revenge, he shall forfeit all
claim upon the United States for such indemnification :
A7id provided also. That, unless such claim shall be pre
sented within three years after the commission of the in
jury, the same shall be barred. And if the nation or
tribe to which such Indian may belong, receive an annuity
from the United States, such claim shall, at the next pay
ment of the annuity, be deducted therefrom, and paid to
the party injured ; and if no annuity is payable to such
nation or tribe, then the amount of the claim shall be paid
from the treasury of the United States : Provided, That
nothing herein contained shall prevent the legal apprehen
sion and punishment of any Indians having so offended.
Sec; 18. And be it further enacted. That the super
intendents, agents, and sub-agents, within their respective
districts, be and are hereby authorized and empowered to
take depositions of witnesses touching any depredations
within the purview of the two preceding sections of this
act, and to administer an oath to the deponents.
Sec. 19. And be it further enacted. That it shall be
the duty of the superintendents, agents, and sub-agents
to endeavour to procure the arrest and trial of all Indians
accused of committing any crime, offence, or misdemeanor,
and all other persons who may have committed crimes or
offences within any state or territory, and have fled into

APPENDIX. 381
the Indian country, either by demanding the same of the
chiefs of the proper tribe, or by such other means as the
President may authorize ; and the President may direct
the military force of the United States to be employed in
the apprehension of sueh Indians, and also in preventing
or terminating hostilities between any of the Indian tribes.
Sec. 20. And be it further enacted. That if any per
son shall sell, exchange, or give, barter, or dispose of any
spirituous liquor or wine to an Indian, (in the Indian coun
try,) such person shall forfeit and pay the sum of five hun
dred dollars ; and if any person shall introduce, or attempt
to introduce, any spirituous liquor or wine into the Indian
country, except such supplies as shall be necessary for the
officers of the United States and troops of the service, un
der the direction of the War Department, such person
shall forfeit and pay a sum not exceeding three hundred
dollars ; and if any superintendent of Indian affairs, In
dian agent, or sub-agent, or commanding officer of a mili
tary post, has reason to suspect, or is informed, that any
white person or Indian is about to introduce, or has intro
duced, any spirituous liquor or wine into the Indian coun
try, in violation of the provisions of this section, it shall be
lawful for such superintendent, Indian agent, or sub-agent,
or military officer, agreeably to such regulations as may be
established by the President of the United States, to cause
the boats, stores, packages, and places of deposite of such
person to be searched ; and if any such spirituous liquor or
wine is found, the goods, boats, packages, and peltries of
such persons shall be seized and delivered to the proper
officer, and shall be proceeded against by libel in the pro
per, court, and forfeited, one half to the use of the in-

382 APPENDIX.
former, and the other half to the use of the United States ;
and if such person is a trader, his licence shall be revoked
and his bond put in suit. And it shall moreover be lawful
for any person in the service of the United States, or for
any Indian, to take and destroy any ardent spirits or wine
found in the Indian country, excepting military supplies,
as mentioned in this section.
Sec. 21. And be it further enacted. That if any per
son whatever shall, within the limits of the Indian coun
try, set up or continue any distillery for manufacturing
ardent spirits, he shall forfeit and pay a penalty of one
thousand dollars : and it shall be the duty of the superin
tendent of Indian affairs, Indian agent, or sub-agent,
within the limits of whose agency the' same shall be set up
or continued, forthwith to destroy and break up the same ;
and it shall be lawful to employ the military force of the
United States in executing that duty.
Sec. 22. And be it further enacted. That in all trials
about the right of property in which an Indian may be a
party on one side, and a white person on the other, the
burden of proof shall rest upon the white person, whenever
the Indian shall make out a presumption of title in him
self from the fact of previous possession or ownership.
Sec. 23. And be it further enacted. That it shall be
lawful for the military force of the United States to be
employed in such manner and under such regulations as
the President may direct, in the apprehension of every
person who shall or may be found in the Indian country
in violation of any of the provisions of this act, and him
immediately to convey from said Indian country, in the

APPENDIX. 383
nearest convenient and safe route, to the civil authority
of the territory or judicial district in which said person
shall be found, to be proceeded against in due course of
law ; and also, in the examination and seizure of stores,
packages, and boats, authorized by the twentieth section
of this act, and in preventing the introduction of persons
and property into the Indian country contrary to law ;
which persons and property shall be proceeded against
according to law : Provided, That no person apprehended
by military force as aforesaid shall be detained longer than
five days after the arrest and before removal. And all
officers and soldiers who may have any such person or per
sons in custody shall treat them with all the humanity
which the circumstances will possibly permit ; and every
officer or soldier who shall be guilty of maltreating any
such person while in custody, shall suffer such punishment
as a court martial shall direct.
Sec. 24. And be it further enacted. That, for the sole
purpose of carrying this act into effect, all that part of the
Indian country west of the Mississippi river, that is
bounded north by the north line of lands assigned to the
Osage tribe of Indians, produced east to the State of
Missomi ; west, by the Mexican possessions ; south, by
Red river ; and east, by the west line of the Territory
of Arkansas and the State of Missouri, shall be, and
hereby is, annexed to the Territory of Arkansas ; and that,
for the purpose aforesaid, the residue ofthe Indian country
west of the said Mississippi river shall be, and hereby is,
annexed to the judicial district of Missouri ; and, for the
purpose aforesaid, the several portions of Indian country

384 APPENDIX.
east of the said Mississippi river shall be, and are hereby,
severally annexed to the territory in which they are
situate. Sec. 25. And be it further enacted. That so much of
the laws of the United States as provides for the punish
ment of crimes committed within any place within the
sole and exclusive jurisdiction of the United States, shall
be in force in the Indian country : Provided, The same
shall not extend to crimes committed by one Indian
against the person or property of another Indian.
Sec. 26. And be it further enacted. That if any person
who shall be charged with a violation of any of the pro
visions or regulations of this act shall be found within
any of the United States, or either of the territories,
such offenders may be there apprehended, and transported
to the territory or judicial district having jurisdiction of
the same.
Sec. 27- And be it further enacted. That all penalties
which shall accrue under this act shall be sued for and
recovered in an action of debt, in the name of the United
States, before any court having jurisdiction of the same,
(in any state or territory in which the defendant shall be
arrested or found,) the one half to the use of the informer
and the other half to the use of the United States, except
when the prosecution shall be first instituted on behalf of
the United States, in which case the whole shall be to
their use.
Sec. 28. And be it further enacted. That when goods
or other property shall be seized for any violation of this
act, it shall be lawful for the person prosecuting on behalf
of the United States to proceed against such goods or

APPENDIX. 385
other property, in the manner directed to be observed in
the case of goods, wares, or merchandise brought into the
United States in violation of the revenue laws.
Sec. 29. And be it further enacted, That the following
acts and parts of acts shall be, and the same are hereby,
repealed, namely : An act to make provision relative to
rations for Indians, and to their visits to the seat of go
vemment, — approved May thirteen, eighteen hundred ; an
act to regulate trade and intercourse with the Indian
tribes, and to preserve peace on the frontiers, — approved
March thirty, eighteen hundred and two ; an act Supple
mentary to the act passed thirtieth March, eighteen hun
dred and two, to regulate trade and intercourse with- the
Indian tribes, and to preserve peace on the frontiers, —
approved April twenty-nine, eighteen hundred and six
teen ; an act for the punishment of crimes and offences
committed within the Indian boundaries, — ^approved March
three, eighteen hundred and seventeen ; the first and
second sections of the act directing the manner of appoint
ing Indian agents, and continuing the " Act establishing
trading houses with the Indian tribes," — approved April
sixteen, eighteen hundred and eighteen; an act fixing the
compensation of Indian agents and factors, — approved April
twenty, eighteen hundred and eighteen ; an act supple
mentary to the act entitled " An act to provide for the
prompt settlement of public accounts," — appro ved Febihiary
twenty-four, eighteen hundred and nineteen ; the eighth
section of the act making appropriations to carry into
effect treaties concluded with several Indian tribes therein
mentioned, — approved March three, eighteen hundred and
nineteen ; the second section of the act to continue in
VOL. II. 2 c

386 APPENDIX.
force for a further time the act entitled " An act for
establishing trading houses with the Indian tribes, and for
other purposes," — approved March three, eighteen hundred
and nineteen; an act to amend an act entitled " An act to
regulate trade and intercourse with the Indian tribes, and
to preserve peace on the frontiers," approved thirtieth of
March, eighteen hundred and two, — approved May six,
eighteen hundred and twenty-two; an act providing for
the appointment of an agent for the Osage Indians west
ofthe state of Missouri and Territory of Arkansas, and for
other purposes, — approved May eighteen, eighteen hun
dred and twenty-four ; the third, fourth, and fifth sections
of " An act to enable the President to hold treaties with
certain Indian tribes, and for other purposes," — approved
May twenty-five, eighteen hundred and twenty-four ; the
second section of the " Act to aid certain Indians of the
Creek nation in their removal to the west of the Missis
sippi," — approved May twenty, eighteen hundred and twen
ty-six ; and an act to authorize the appointment of a
sub-agent to the Winnebago Indians on Rock river, —
approved February twenty-five, eighteen hundred and
thirty-one : Provided, however. That such repeal shall
not effect [affect] any rights acquired, or punishments,
penalties, or forfeitures incurred, under either of the acts
or parts of acts, nor impair or affect the intercourse act
of eighteen hundred and two, so far as the same relates
to or concerns Indian tribes residing east of the Missis
sippi : And provided also. That such repeal shall not be
construed to revive any acts or parts of acts repealed by
either of the acts or sections herein described.
Sec. 30. And be it further enacted. That until a

APPENDIX. 387
Westem Territory shall be established, the two agents
for the Western Territory, as provided in the act for the
organization of the Indian Department, this day approved
by the President, shall execute the duties of agents for
such tribes as may be directed by the President of the
United States. And it shall be competent for the Pre
sident to assign to one of the said agents, in addition to his
proper duties, the duties of superintendent for such dis
trict pf country, or for such tribes, as the President may
thinh fit. And the powers of the superintendent at St.
Louis over such district or tribes as may be assigned to
such acting superintendent shall cease. Provided, That
no additional compensation shall be allowed for such
services. Approved, June SOth, 1834.

An Act to provide for the Organization of the Depart
ment of Indian Affairs.
Sec. 1. Be it enacted by the Senate and House of
Representatives of the United States of America, in Con
gress assembled. That the duties of the Governors of the
Territories of Florida and Arkansas, as superintendents of
Indian affairs, shall hereafter cease, and the duties of the
Govemor of the Territory of Michigan, as superintendent
of Indian affairs, shall cease from and after the establish
ment of a new territory embracing the country west of
Lake Michigan, should such a territory be established.
And while the Govemor of the said Territory of Michigan
continues to , act as superintendent of Indian affairs, he
shall receive therefor the annual sum of one thousand
2c 2

388 APPENDIX.
dollars, in full of all allowances, emoluments, or compen
sation for services in said capacity.
Sec. 2. And be it further enacted. That there shall
be a superintendency of Indian affairs for all the Indian
country not within the bounds of any state or territory
west of the Mississippi river, the superintendent of which
shall reside at St. Louis, and shall annually receive a salary
of fifteen hundred dollars.
Sec. 3. And be it further enacted. That superin
tendents of Indian affairs shall, within their several su-
perintendencies, exercise a general supervision and control
over the official conduct and accounts of all officers and
persons employed by the Govemment in the Indian De
partment, under such regulations as shall be established
by the President of the United States ; and may suspend
such officers and persons from their office or employ
ments, for reasons forthwith to be communicated to the
Secretary of War.
Sec. 4. And be it further enacted. That the following
Indian agents shall be appointed by the President of the
United States, by and with the advice and consent of the
Senate, who shall hold their offices for the term of four
years, and who shall give bond, with two or more secu
rities, in the penal sum of two thousand dollars, for the
faithful execution ofthe same, and shall receive the annual
compensation of fifteen hundred dollars :
Two agents for the Westem Territory ; an agent for
the Chickasaws ; an agent for the Eastem Cherokees ; an
agent for the Florida Indians ; an agent for the Indians in
the State of Indiana ; an agent at Chicago ; an agent at
Rock Island ; an agent at Prairie du Chien ; an agent for

APPENDIX. 389
Michilimackinac and the Sault Sainte Marie ; an agent
-for the Saint Peter's ; an agent for the Upper Missomi.
And the following agencies shall be discontinued at the
periods herein mentioned, that is to say :
The Florida agency, from and after the thirty-first day
of December next ; the Cherokee agency, from and after
the thirty-first day of December next ; the Indiana agency,
ftom and after the thirty-first day of December eighteen
hundred and thirty-six ; the Chicago agency, from and after
the thirty-first day of December next ; the Rock Island
agency, from and after the thirty-first day of December
eighteen hundred and thirty-six ; and all other agencies,
not provided for in this act, from and after the passing
thereof: Provided, That the limitation of said agencies
shall not be construed to prevent the President of the
United States from discontinuing the same at an earlier
period. And the President shall be and he is hereby
authorized, whenever he may judge it expedient, to dis
continue any Indian agency, or to transfer the same, from
the place or tribe designated by law, to such other place
or tribe as the public service may require. And every
Indian agent shall reside and keep his agency within or
near the territory of the tribe for which he may be agent,
and at such place as the President may designate, and
shall not depart from the limits of his agency without
permission. And it shall be competent for the President
to require any military officer of the United States to ex
ecute the duties of Indian agent.
Sec. 5. And be it further enacted. That a competent
number of sub-agents shall be appointed by the Presi
dent, with an annual salary of seven hundred and fifty

390 APPENDIX.
dollars each, to be employed and to reside wherever the
President may direct ; and who shall give bonds, with one
or more sureties, in the penal su,m of one thousand dol
lars, for the faithful execution of the same. But no sub-
agent shall be appointed who shall reside within the limits
of any agency where there is an agent appointed.
Sec. 6. And be it further enacted. That nothing herein
contained shall be construed to require the re-appointment
of persons now in office until the expiration of their pre
sent term of service ; but the commissions of all Indian
agents and sub-agents now in office shall expire on- the
fourth day of March next, unless sooner terminated.
Sec. 7. And be it further enacted, That the limits of
each agency and sub-agency shall he established by the
Secretary of War, either by tribes or by geographical
boundaries. Ahd it shall be the general duty of Indian
agents and' sub-agents to manage and superintend the in
tercourse with the Indians within their respective agencies,
agreeably to law ; to obey all legal instructions given ' to
them by the Secretary of War, the Commissioner of In
dian Affairs, or the Superintendent of Indian Affairs ; and
to carry into effect such regulations as may be prescribed
by the President.
Sec. 8. And be it further enacted. That the President
of the United States may, from time to time, require ad
ditional security, and in larger amounts, from all persons
charged or trusted, under the laws of the United States,
with the disbursement or application of money, goods, or
effects of any kind, on account of the Indian Department.
Sec. 9. And be it further enacted, That an interpreter
shall be allowed to each agency, who shall receive an an-

AP,pENDIX. 391
nual salary of tliree hundred dollars : Provided, That
where there are different tribes in the same agency speak
ing different languages, one interpreter may be allowed, at
the discretion of the Secretary of War, for each of the
said tribes. Interpreters shall be nominated, by the proper
agents, to the War Department for approval, and may be
suspended, by the agent, from pay and duty, and the cir
cumstances reported to the War Department for final
action ; and blacksmiths shall in like manner be employed
wherever required by treaty stipulations ; and such black
smiths shall receive an annual compensation of four hun-.
dred and eighty dollars ; and if they furnish their shop
and tools, an additional sum of one hundred and twenty
dollars ; and their assistants shall be allowed an annual
compensation of two hundred and forty dollars. And
wherever farmers, mechanics, or teachers are required by
treaty stipulations to be provided, they shall be employed
under the direction of the War Department, and shall re
ceive an annual compensation of not less than four hun
dred and eighty dollars, nor more than six hundred dol
lars. And in all cases of the appointments of interpreters
or other persons employed for the benefit of the Indians,
a preference shall be given to persons of Indian descent,
if such can be found, who are properly qualified for the
execution of the duties. And where any of the tribes are,
in the opinion of the Secretary of War, competent to di
rect the employment of their blacksmiths, mechanics,
teachers, farmers, or other persons engaged for them, the
direction of such persons may be given to the proper au
thority of the tribe.
Sec. 10. And be it further enacted. That the com-

392 APPENDIX.
pensation prescribed by this act shall be in full of all emolu
ments or allowances whatsoever : Provided, however, That,
where necessary, a reasonable allowance or provision may
be made for offices and office contingencies : And provided
also. That where persons are required, in the performance
of the duties under this act, to travel from one place to
another, their actual expenses, or a reasonable sum in lieu
thereof, may be allowed them : And provided also, That
no allowance shall be made to any person for travel or
expenses in coming to the seat of Govemment to settle
his accounts, unless thereto required by the Secretary of
War : And provided also. That no person shall hold
more than one office at the same time under this act, nor
shall any agent, sub-agent, interpreter, or person employed
under this act, receive his salary while absent from his
agency or employment without leave of the Superintendent
or Secretary of War : Provided, such absence shall at no
time exceed sixty days.
Sec. 11. And be it further enacted. That the payment
of all annuities or other sums stipulated by treaty to be
made to any Indian tribe, shall be made to the chiefs of
such tribe, or to such person as said tribe shall appoint ;
or if any tribe shall appropriate their annuities to the pur
pose of education, or to any other specific use, then to
such person or persons as such tribe shall designate.
Sec. 12. And be it further enacted, That it shall be
lawful for the President of the United States, at the
request of any Indian tribe to which any annuity shall be
payable in money, to cause the same to be paid in goods,
purchased as provided in the next section of this act.
Sec. 13. And be it further enacted, That all merchan-

APPENDIX. 393
dise required by any Indian treaty for the Indians, payable
after making of such treaty, shall be purchased under the
direction of the Secretary of War, upon proposals to be
received, to be based on notices previously to be given ;
and all merchandise required at the making of any Indian
treaty shall be purchased under the order of the com
missioners, by such person as they shall appoint, or by
such person as shall be designated by the President for
that purpose. And all other purchases on account of the
Indians, and all payments to them of money or goods,
shall be made by such person as the President shall desig
nate for that purpose. And the superintendent, agent, or
sub-agent, together with such military officer as the Presi
dent may direct, shall be present, and certify to the de
livery of all goods and money required to be paid or de
livered to the Indians. And the duties required, by any
section of this act, of military officers, shall be performed
without any other compensation than their actual travel
ling expenses ; and all persons whatsoever, charged or
trusted with the disbursement or application of money,
goods, or effects of any kind, for the benefit of the In
dians, shall settle their accounts annually at the War De
partment on the first day of October ; and copies of the
same shall be laid, annually, before Congress at the com
mencement of the ensuing session, by the proper account
ing officers ; together with a list of the names of all per
sons to whom money, goods, or effects had been delivered
within said year for the benefit of the Indians, specifying
the amount and object for which it was intended, and
showing who are delinquents, if any, in forwarding their
accounts according to the provisions of this act ; and, also,

394 APPENDIX.
a list of the names of all persons appointed or employed
under this act, with the dates of their appointment or
employment, and the salary and pay of each.
Sec. 14. And be it further enacted, That no person
employed in the Indian Department shall have any in
terest or concern in any trade with the Indians, except for
and on account of the United States ; and any person
offending herein shall forfeit the sum of five thousand dol
lars ; and upon satisfactory information of such offence
being laid before the President of the United States, it
shall become his duty to remove such person from the
office or situation he may hold.
Sec. 15. Andbe it further enacted, That the President
shall be, and he is hereby, authorized to cause any of the
friendly Indians west of the Mississippi river, and north of
the boundary of the Westem Territory, and the region
upon Lake Superior and the head of the Mississippi, to be
furnished with useful domestic animals and implements of
husbandry, and with goods, as he shall think proper :
Provided, That the whole amount of such presents shall
not exceed the sum of five thousand dollars.
Sec. 16. And be it further enacted. That the President
be, and he is hereby, authorized to cause such rations as
he shall judge proper, and as can be spared from the army
provisions without injury to the service, to be issued,
under such regulations as he shall think fit to establish, to
Indians who may visit the military posts or agencies of the
United States on the frontiers, or in their respective na
tions ; and a special account of these issues shall be kept
and rendered.
Sec. 17. And be it further enacted. That the President
of the United States shall be, and he is hereby, authorized

APPENDIX. 395
to prescribe such rules and regulations as he may think
fit for carrying into effect the various provisions of this
act, and of any other act relating to Indian affairs, and
for the settlement of the accounts of the Indian Depart
ment. Sec. 18. And be it further enacted. That all acts, or
parts of acts, contrary to the provisions of this act, shall
be, and the same are hereby repealed.
Approved, June SOth, 1834.

Regulations conc^t'ning the payment of Indian Annuities,
1. All annuities payable by treaty stipulations to any
Indian tribe will be hereafter paid by a military officer,
to be designated for that purpose, under the provisions of
the act passed June SOth, 1834, entitled " An act to pro
vide for the organization of the Department of Indian Af-.
fairs," except where, from some local cause or other cir
cumstance, it may become necessary to have the payments
otherwise made ; in which event special instructions for
that purpose will be given by the Secretary of War.
2. The officer designated for the above duty will be ad
vised thereof through the proper military office, but the
necessary instructions for the execution of the duty will
be given by the Commissioner of Indian Affairs.
3. Drafts for the payment of the annuities will be trans
mitted to such officer, who will procure the necessary funds
thereupon, and transport them to the place of payment.
The annuities will be paid in specie, except ¦where the In
dians are willing to receive bank bills, which, at the place
of payment, are equivalent to gold and silver. If the
Indians fully understand the value of such bank bills.

396 APPENDIX.
which are equivalent to gold and silver at the place of pay
ment, and are willing to receive the same to avoid the ex
pense and risk of transportation, bills, under such circum
stances, may be paid to them : but the officers making
and superintending the payment will take care that the
Indians fully understand the matter, and act according to
the dictates of their own judgment.
4. When it becomes necessary to pay annuities, in
structions will be given by the Commissioner of Indian
Affairs to the proper agent or sub-agent, and also to the
officer designated to make the payment. The agent or
sub-agent will fix upon the time and place, and will ad
vise the officer of the same, and such officer will make his
arrangements to have funds ready at the time and place
fixed upon.
5, The proper agent or sub-agent will take care that
the Indians receive the necessary information, in order that
they may assemble at the time and place designated ; for
that purpose he is authorized to send messages to the
tribe, and the expense of such messages will be defrayed
upon his certificate by the officer designated to make the
payment. It is presumed, however, that the necessary
information may be communicated generally without ex
pense I and in no instance will the expenses for this ob
ject, for any one agency or sub-agency, be allowed to ex
ceed the sum of one hundred dollars, unless a previous
representation of the necessity thereof be made to the
War Department and approved.
6. From the situation and circumstances of the various
Indian tribes, a uniform rule respecting the issuing of pro
visions during the payment of annuities cannot be pre-

APPENDIX. 397
scribed. Some of the tribes will require no such assistance,
while it must be rendered to others. In the instmctions
issued on the subject of the annuities, the Commissioner
of Indian Affairs will designate those agencies or sub-
agencies where it will become necessary to provide assistance
during the time of payment. In all cases, however, where
the payment is made in the vicinity of a military post, the
necessary provisions will be issued from the army stores,
upon the requisition of the proper agent or sub-agent, and
upon the order of the commanding officer, and accounted
for in the manner heretofore practised.
7. Where provisions are required for the payment of
annuities, at places where there are no military posts, the
agent or sub-agent will form a contract, to be based upon
proposals, giving at least twenty days' public notice, spe
cifying the quantity of provisions, and the day, and place,
and circumstances of issue. In determining the quantity,
the agent or sub-agent will estimate, from the best means
within his power, the number of Indians that will proba
bly attend ; but no contract will be made for a larger
amount than may be previously directed by the Commis
sioner of Indian Affairs.
8. The ration to be issued will consist of one pound of
fresh beef, if the same can be had, but if not, then of three-
fourths of a pound of salt meat, and three-fourths of a
quart of com or of com meal, or of one pound of wheat
flour, to each person, and of four quarts of salt to every
one hundred persons ; but no salt will be issued when the
Indians receive salt meat.
Returns, specifying the number of Indians, distinguish
ing men, women, and children, and stating the tribe, will

398 APPENDIX.
be drawn by the agent or sub-agent on the contractor, and
upon these issues will be made. After the business is com
pleted, these returns will be consolidated into an abstract,
and certified by the agent or sub-agent, and the military
officer, and thereupon payment will be made to the con
tractor. The abstracts and contracts will be the vouchers
for the settlement of the accounts.
9. It is believed that, in most cases, three days' provi
sions will be found sufficient ; viz. one upon the day of
arrival, one upon the day of payment, and one upon the
day of departure. Should two days, however, be found
necessary to complete the payment, four days' provisions
may be allowed.
10. Independent ofthe Indian agent or sub-agent, and
of the military officer making the payment at places where
it may be convenient, another military officer will be di
rected to be present, and certify to the payment.
11. Previously tb the payments, the agent or sub-agent,
and the military officer or officers, will convene the In
dians, and ascertain from them in what manner they desire
the annuity to be paid : whether to the chiefs of the tribe,
to heads of families, or in any other manner. They will
take care that the Indians fully comprehend the subject,
and act upon their own suggestions ; and, after getting
their views, the payment will be made in conformity there
to. ' The decision of the Indians will be certified upon the
receipt rolls by the above officers.
12. Payment will, in all cases, be made to the Indians,
and to no other person ; nor will any debt or claim of any
kind be allowed or paid, excepting claims provided for in
the 17th section of the act passed the SOth ultimo, and

APPENDIX. 399
entitled "An act to regulate trade and intercourse with the
Indian tribes, and to preserve peace on the frontier."
1 3. Where property is taken or destroyed, in the man
ner described in the said section, the person interested
therein wiU procure the necessary documents and proofs
substantiating his claim. These documents and proofs
will be submitted to the proper superintendent, agent, or
sub-agent, and at the next period of paying annuities the
same will be laid before the persons superintending such
payment. They will inquire into the circumstances, and
interrogate the Indians ; and if they are satisfied the claim
is just, they will then make a formal demand upon the
tribe for satisfaction. If, thereupon, such tribe agree to
make satisfaction, the amount shall be taken from the an
nuity due to such tribe, and paid to the person entitled
thereto. Triplicate receipts will be taken from the person;
receiving such pajrment, expressing the nature and circum
stances thereof; one of which shall be kept by the agent
or sub-agent ; one shall be delivered to a chief of the
tribe ; and the third shall be transmitted, with the annuity
receipts, to the office of Indian Affairs. The annuity re
ceipt will also express the payment so made : that is, it
¦wiU acknowledge, on the part of the Indians, the receipt
of the whole annuity due to them ; specifying that such
part was due to them, and such part to the person named,
on account ofthe injury before mentioned. ,
14. If the Indians refuse to allow sucjh claim, the agent,
sub^agent, and military officers attending the payment, will,
after making the inquiries aforesaid, state all the circum
stances which may become known to them, and certify the
same, together with their opinion, with the documents and

400 APPENDIX.
proofs, to the Commissioner of Indian Affairs for ultimate
decision. And when it shall be decided that the claimant is
entitled to redress, special instructions will be issued to the
proper agent or sub-agent ; and, at the next period of paying"
the annuity, the amount will be deducted therefrom and paid
to the proper person. And the Indians will be informed
that such is the decision of the President upon the case.
15. Payments of all annuities will be made in public,
and in the presence of whatever persons may choose to at
tend ; and triplicate receipt rolls will be prepared, and
will be signed by the proper chiefs of the tribe. These
receipt rolls will be -witnessed by two or more respectable
persons who may attend the payment, and will be duly
certified by the persons making and superintending the
same ; two of these rolls will be forwarded for settlement,
> 16. The agent or sub-agent will reduce to -writing the
substance of all the speeches made by the Indians who
may be present, and transmit fair copies of the same to the
Commissioner of Indian Affairs. These speeches -will be
certified by the military officers.
17. The abovementioned law pro-vides that no allow
ance will be made to any military officer for his servicesy
except for his actual travelling expenses. The expenses
of transporting the annuity, including a reasonable com-"
pensation to a confidential person to aid in the transport
ation where the amount is large, will be paid upon the
production of proper vouchers, and the certificate of the
officer making the expenditure. Where, ftom exposed
situations, or from the magnitude of the sum, it may be
come necessary to pro-vide for the greater security of the
funds, instructions will be issued from the Adjutant-ge-

APPENDIX. 401
nejai's Office to the respective commanding officers to fur
nish such a guard as may be required.
It is intended to designate the offi^cers at each station,
doing the ,duty of quajrtepnaster or commissary, tp disburse
the funds herein referred to : and, as a general pule, the
commanding officer of the post wjll be appointed to $.id in
superintending the payinent. Necessary exceptions icom
these rules, yrhen they occur, -will be provided for.
18. It will be the duty of the agent or sub-agent, and
ijaili'tary officers attending these payments, to explain fully
to the Indians the provisions of the 16th ap,d 17th sections
ofthe abovementioned act, which prescribe the mode of re
dress, as weU for white persons as IndiajiSj when injuries
are committed by one upon the other. And the Indians
jsrill, at such times, be enjoined to restraiu their o-wn peo
ple ftom committing injuries, not only as the offender is
liable to punishment, hut becaiuse the amount yill be de
ducted ftorn the annuity due to the tribe ; and they will
also be infojjmied that the latW makes adequa.te provision for
their compensatiopa when they are injured by citizens of
the United States ; but if jthey endeavour to procure re
dress by -violent m.eaps, they become not only liable to
punishment, but fqrfeit all their claims to ;Compensation.
19. The twelfth section of the above-named act having
p;rovided that, when any Indian tribe requests it, the an
nuity due to suc^i tribe may be paid in goods, it -will be
the duty ,of the agent or sub-agent, while attending any
annuity payment, to communicate this information to the
Indians, and to inquire of them whether they desire their
next annuity to -be paid ,in .money or in goods. Their
answer will be signed by the chiefs, certified by the agent
VOL. II. 2 D

402 APPENDIX.
or sub-agent, and transmitted to the Commissioner of In
dian Affairs ; and the Indians -will be informed that the
next annuity will be paid in the mode pointed out by
them, and arrangements will accordingly be made therefor.
20. Where an annuity is payable in goods, either by
law, by treaty, or at the request of the Indians, such goods
will be purchased by contract, to be based upon proposals
previously issued. Such proposals will be issued under
the direction of the Secretary of War, and hy a person to
be designated by him, and will give at least thirty days'
previous notice. Such notice will specify the amount re
quired, the time and place of delivery, and wHl describe,
as minutely as practicable, the kinds and quality of the
various articles required. In determining the kind and
quality of the articles, regard must be had to the habits
*and tastes of the tribe for whom such articles are designed.
Of this, the proper superintendent, agent, or sub-agent,
must judge, unless the Indians themselves shall decide
the matter. With this view, the subject -will be explained
to them at every annuity payment, and, if they see fit, the
various articles, in the proportions to be indicated by them,
will be purchased accordingly for the next payment. The
mode of determining the quantity will be as follows : if,
for instance, the annuity due to the tribe be ten thousand
dollars, the proposals will state that such a portion of that
amount, say two thousand dollars, will be for blankets —
such a portion, say two thousand dollars, for strouds-—
such a portion, say one thousand dollars, for calicoes —
such a portion, say five hundred dollars, for powder — such
a portion, say five hundred dollars, for tobacco — and so
on ; designating the proportional part which shall be as-

APPENDIX. 403
signed to each particular object. The goods will be trans
ported to the place of delivery at the sole expense of the
contractor, and kept there at his risk until delivered by
the proper officers to the Indians. In all cases, patterns
of blankets, strouds, and such other articles as cannot be
described -with sufficient precision, will be deposited at
some convenient place for inspection, and the articles to
be furnished wiU be in conformity there-with. If they are
not in such conformity, they will be liable to the pro
ceeding subsequently described herein. -*
21. The agent or sub-agent, and military officers at
tending the payment, will particularly examine all the ar
ticles, and -will take care that they are of the proper qua
lity, so that full justice shall be done to the Indians.
In case the goods are not upon the spot, it shall be re
ferred to them whether they -will receive ihe money, or
wait till the goods can be procured, either at that or the
succeeding season. If they choose to receive the money,
it shall be immediately procured, and paid to them on
the principle before described. If they prefer the goods,,
such goods shall be procured by a new contract, the same
season if practicable ; but if there is not time then, it
shall be done at the next season. But if the goods are
ready for delivery, and are found defective in quality,
then the Indians shall also be called upon to decide
whether they will receive such articles as are found de
fective, or whether they -wish the payment to be made
as is provided in this article. If they prefer the latter,
the proceedings above described will take place; but if
they agree to accept the (defective articles at such a price
as the agent or sub-agent and military officer may fix.

404 APPENDIX.
then such persons wfll ascertain the difference in value
between the articles So delivered, and those requited to
be delivered, and shall deduct double the amount thereof
from the sum to be paid to the contractorj and pay the
Same to the Indians. But if the agent or sub-agent and
ftiiilitary Officer are satisfied that the quality of the articles
is such that it would not be proper for the Indians, under
any circumstances, to receive them, then they will explaiil
the matter without referring the question to the Indians^
and will proceed in other respects as before described.
22. Fomis of notices iot proposals fot goods, and for
contracts for the same, will be prepared and transmitted
by the Coinmissioner of Indian Affairs. Every con
tractor will be required to give bond in twice the amount
to be . furnished, -^^ith at least three sufficient securities,
whose solvency and tespectability .shall be kno-wn to the
bfficer making the contract, or to respectable person^
known to him.
23. Goods for the Indi&ris -will be delivered in the
same manner as is provided in the delivery of specie.
They will be divided into separate shares^ or be handed
over in bulk, as the Indians may choose. The contracts
-will be transmitted to the Commissioner of Indian Affairs,
with the receipt rolls of the Indians as vouchers for the
settlement of the accounts. No portion of the money
will be paid until after the goods are actually reteived by
the Indians.
24. Ifi order to preserve the proper authority bf the
agent or sub-agent with the Indians, the agent or sub-
agent will be the organ of communication at all annuity
payments.

APPENDIX. 405
Officers employed in the Indian Department, under the
Act for the Organization of the Indian Department,
-^approved June BOth, 1834.
Superintendent.
William Clark, St. Louis, compensation 1500-
dollars per annum.
J. J. Ruland, Clerk, St. Louis, lOOO dollars per ann.
Agents, at a compensation of 1500 dollars per annum.
William Marshall, Indiana.
This agency includes all the Indians and Indian coun
try within the limits of that State.
Benjamin Reynolds, Chichasawi.
This agency includes that tribe.
Lawrence Talliaferro, St. Peter''s.
This agency includes all the country west of the agency
of Michilimackinac and SaUlt Ste. Marie, and north of
the Green Bay and Prairie du Chien agencies, compre
hending the various families 'of the Sioux tribe upon the
waters of the Mississippi and its tributary streams, and
upon the waters of Red river.
Jos. M. Street, Prairie du Chien.
This agency includes all the Indians and Indian coun
try west of the Green Bay agency, south of the agencies
of Michilimackinac and St. Peter's, extending west as fer
as the Winnebago country extends, and comprehending
within its limits the Sac and Fox Indians and their
Country. R. W- Cummins, Northern Agency of Western
Territory,
This agency includes all the Indians and Indian coun-

406 APPENDIX.
try within the superintendency of St. Louis, south of the
Upper Missouri agency, excepting thereftom the Shawa-
nees, Ottawas, Peorias and Kaskaskiag, and Piankeshaws
and Weas, who will constitute a separate sub-agency.
John Dougherty, Upper Missouri.
This agency includes all the Indians and Indian coun
try west of the Statg of Missouri, north of the northern
agency of the Western Territory, and extending west and
north, so as to include the Otoes, Pawnees, Omahas, and
Poncas. ,
George Boyd, Green Bay. .
This agency includes all the Indians and Indian coun
try north of the Chicago agency, west and south of the
agency of Michilimackinac and the Sault Ste. Marie, and
extending west to a line mnning, due north and south,
through the portage of the Fox and Ouisconsin rivers.
H. R. Schoolcraft, Michilimackinac and Sault
Ste. Marie.
This agency includes all the Indians and Indian coun
try on the peninsula of Michigan, ftom the mouth of
Thunder Bay river, round the shores of the lakes, to the
White river of Lake Michigan, and the islands of Lake
Huron, and the peninsula between Lake Superior, Lake
Michigan, and Lake Huron, as far west as the Monistic
river, and all the country upon Lake Superior, and all the
region possessed by the Chippewa Indians, comprehending
the Upper Mississippi,
F. W. Armstrong, Southern Agency of 'Western
Territory, and acting Superintendent.
This agency includes the Choctaws and their country.

APPENDIX,

407

Sub-agents, at a compensation
H. Conner, »• w
Lt.-Col. E. Cutler,
James Jacfeson,
•J. L. Bean,
J. F. A. Sanford,
A. S. Hughes,
' M. G. Clark, ,
L. Tarrant,
George Varhon,
R.A. M'Cabe,
P. L. Chouteau,
J. M'Elvain,
James Stryker,

of 750 dollars per annum.
Michigan.
Fort Winnebago.
Maumee. Sioux. I
Mandan.
loway." Ottaway. Creeks, East.
Cherokees, West.
Creeks, West.
Osage.Ohio Indians, Sandusky.
Buffalo, N. Y.

Interpreters, at a compensation
R. Grignon,
Antoine Le Clair,
Charles Maubrain,
James Rankin,
George Johnson,
Nathan Strong,
Antoine Dunord,
James Baron,
Michael St. Cyr,
Amable Grignon,
Duncan Campbell,
Jacqu^' Mettez,
Joseph James,
James Conner,
Peter Cudjoe.

#

of SOO dollars per annual.
Green Bay.
Rock Island.
Missouri.
Sandusky. Michilimackinac. Buffalo.Detroit. Logansport. Fort Winnebago.
Prairie du Chien.
St. Peter's.
St. Louis.
Kanzas.
Shawanee. Kickapoo.

408

APPENDIX.

Henry Clay,

Ottaway.

B. Mongradiei^'

¦^sage.

Jackson Kemp,

Chickasaws.

Paddy Carr,

Creeks, Easij;.
• do. Westf
(not reported^
^ (not reported)
Cherokees, West,
R. M. Jones,
*
Choctaws.
Jeffrey Domey,
loways.
Zephier Rencouter,
Sioux.
Toussant Charboi^au,
Mandan.
(not reported)
Quapaws.
(not reported)
Caddors.
3 9002 00688 7427

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