r^ • : _ ¦ ' . , -- -' 1%ET3II_flP YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 1942 Amidst the Laurentians being a guide to Shawinigan Falls and points on The Great Northern Railway of Canada By N. M. Hinshelwood Illustrated from the author's own photographs {with a few exceptions) Chapter I. Chapter II. . Chapter III. Chapter IV. . Chapter V. . Chapter VI. . Chapter VII. Chapter VIII. INDEX Montreal — Joliette Ottawa — Joliette Joliette — Shawinigan Falls Shawinigan Falls Engineering Works at Shawinigan Falls Rambles Around Shawinigan Grand Mere — Riviere a Pierre Riviere a Pierre — Quebec Entered according to Act of the Parliament of Canada, in the year 1902, by N. M. Hinshelwood, at the Department of Agriculture. THE HERALD PRESS, MONTREAL. CAN. "Amidst the Laurentians" Chapter I. Montreal — Joliette BETWEEN Montreal and Quebec there lies a level, well watered country, the most fertile in this broad Dominion. Stretching far away to the south of the St. Lawrence, and northwards as far as the lower fringe of the Laurentian Hills, it was this land that was the earliest brought into cultivation, and through which one of the first iron roads in the Province of Quebec was built. This railway (the C. P. R.), however, kept in close touch with the St. Lawrence the greater part of the way between Montreal and Quebec. The Great Northern Railway of Canada was chartered by Act of Parliament in 1882 to build a railway from Quebec to some point on the Ottawa River near Carillon, and to open a rich section of country lying along the base of the Laurentiau Mountains. Construction was begun about 18S4 at St. Jerome, and was slowly pushed eastward until it reached Montcalm, a distance of twenty -eight miles. In the meantime a railway, thirty-five miles in length, had been built under the name of "The Lower Laurentian Railway," running from Riviere a Pierre to a junction with the Piles Branch of the Canadian Pacific Railway near St. Tite. From St. Tite, twenty miles had been built, under the Great Northern charter, to St. Boniface. In 1889, therefore, the Great Northern- Montreal Harbor Montreal from Mount Royal consisted of two separate portions, the eastern one twenty miles in length, the western one twenty-eight miles in length, with a gap of fifty-three miles between. The end of the western section was still thirty-five miles from its projected western terminal at Hawkesbury, where it was proposed to connect with the Canada Atlantic Railway, and thus form a through road from Parry Sound to Quebec, and give a grain route to Europe from the West, 800 miles shorter than via Buffalo and New York. The Company being reorganized in 1899, contracts were made for the building of the eighty-eight miles necessary to connect the two portions and extend them to Hawkesbury, the through line being completed and open for traffic in November, 1900. It now connects three of the largest cities in Canada, Montreal, Ottawa and Quebec ; and in doing so, taps all the northern part of that fertile plain afore mentioned, Iff l**jy'*64t»» A f ^^^^^^"^rr^^^: gives access to the magni ficent water- f al Is and river scenery where the streams that feed the St. La wr e nee break thro* the hills, and throws open communication with the thriving towns that have sprung up within a year or two by the development of many water-powers now used for manufactories of all kinds. Lachine Rapids Montreal, as the metropolis of Canada, is deserving of more than passing notice. Founded in 1642, it is now a city of more than three hundred thousand inhabitants, whilst its situation at the head of a navigable water-way, six hundred miles from the ocean, is unsur passed by an}- city on this contin- :nt. The might}- St. Lawrence, two miles in breadth and canning to the ocean one-third of the fresh water of the globe, sweeps past the city, with^the wooded eminence of Mount [Royal rising in the rear, from which ma)' be viewed a scene excelling even that of the Town and Bay of Naples, from the heights of Vesuvius. Rich in architecture, squares and historical spots, it is a city the Canadian may well be proud of. But a few of Montreal's attractions can be mentioned here. St. Helen's Island, Trolley Car Rides to Lachine, Back River, Cartierville, etc. Shoot ing the Rapids at Lachine, the old Chateau de Ramezay, the lovely walks through the wooded recesses of Mt. Royal Park, and visits to the many fine churches for which Montreal is famous. Occasion should certainly be found for a visit to the famous "Way of the Cross," in the Catholic cemetery. Placed amidst the loveliest part of the mountain, a winding road, overshadowed with trees, gradually creeps upward until the summit is reached, on which is erected a represen ta- tion of the "Crucifix- i on." O n either side of the road, at irregular intervals, are Shrines rep- resenting scenes on the way to the " Cru cifix- ion,"and the realistic e f - feet attained Garden of the Chateau de Ramezay as one reaches the final scene of the great Bible story is startling. On leaving the city the railway ru ns past L o n g u e Pointe Hos pital, to Bout de l'Isle ("The End of the Is land," on which'Mont- real is situ ated). Here the waters of the Back River, after flowing round the north ern shore of the island, meet the St. Lawrence, and a bridge three-quarters of a mile in length (including approaches) is being built to carry the line across to the main land. The Park at Bout de l'Isle, with its swings, refreshment kiosks, and the glimpses of river from its sylvan walks, is the resort of many thousands ever}- week. Leaving the Island of Montreal behind, the line runs amidst a splendid agricultural country, noted for crops of hay and tobacco, through the town of L'Assomption (a seat of learning with many manufactories) to Joliette, here joining the original trunk line from Quebec to Ottawa. o Chapter II. Ottawa — Joliette TTAWA, the capital of the Dominion,, not'being actuallv'onthe line of the Great Northern Railway, need not be discussed, the Canada Atlantic owning the line east as far as Hawkesbury. This latter town, situated on the Ottawa River, is a charming place for a few days stop-over. The river offers excellent facilities for boating, and steamers run regularly in the summer months to Ottawa and Mont real, most pictur esque trips. The town itself is chief ly devoted to the lumber industry, being in factkuown as "Hawkesbury Mills " for close on one hundred years. The Hawkesbury Lumber Company have ver)' extensive mills and yards here. A Bit °f Ottawa Another important industry of the town is the Riordan Paper Mill, which employs over 400 hands and turns out some 100 tons per day. Half a mile from the town the line is carried over the river by the Hawkesbury Bridge. This piece of work was the biggest engineering fea ture in the whole construction of the road— 3,768 feet long and 83 feet It was the last link in the connection between Quebec from the bridge is very beauti ful. Ontheother side is the Vil lage of G r e n - vii 1 e, th ence seven miles further, St. Philippe, a quaint little place with quite a reputation for horse breeding. Lachute (next stop) is the Hawkesbury Lumber Company and Riordan Paper Mills above water level and the West, being finished in October, 1900. The view of the Ottawa River ukesbitry Bridge River remained unfettered until first town ar rived at that owes its pros perity to the developmentof a water-power. T wo streams, known respec tively as West River and North River, flow1 past the town, joining the Ottawa lower down . The North 1880, when the J. C. Wilson Company built their paper mill (which now turns out 30 tons per day) and raised the level of the stream till a 16-foot head was obtained. The river is also used for generating power to run a large woollen mill, also a pulp mill. The town is distinctly pretty, with an excellent hotel on the main street, a minute or so from the station. A four hours' drive will take the sportsman to the Sixteen Island Lakes, the heart of a splendid shooting and fishing district. Along the North River more fishing is to be had. The country around is very picturesque, one particularly nice walk or drive being along the north side of the North River to St. Canut (the next railway station). Winding its way through woods, and crossing foaming rivulets as they rush down from the hills, the road has many charming points whereat to linger. St. Canut is a type of a very goodly proportion of the small French villages in Quebec Province, i. e. , twenty or thirty small cottages and a church worthy of a town of ten thousand inhabi tants. St. Jerome, a town of 4,000 people, also on the North River, some eighteen above La- chute, is another ex ample of a Riverside Cottages al Lachule water-power and prosperity going hand iu hand. Here the J. B. Rolland Company have large paper mills. The Boston Rubber Company have also a manufactory located here. The town being on the new road to St. Agathe and Labelle, and the centre of probably the best farming district in the Province, is in the most thriving condition. The stream running through its midst, and its trees and riverside walks, make it a striking example of the fact that industrial development need not necessarily mar the natural beauties of a place. The country to the north offers great inducements to sportsmen, being rich in fish and game, and up to the present but little explored. Pending the completion of the Montreal-Joliette Branch, Great Northern trains reach Montreal via C. P. R. from St. Jerome. Hastening through the next two stations, merely pausing lo note the thriving appearance of the villages and farms, the next place worth remark is New Glasgow. Here a swift mountain stream, after a short leap, cuts through steep banks, ou either side of which lies the village. There are two hotels, and exce llent f acilitie s for camping amidst the most delight ful surroundings. Afewmiles north lies Lake L'Achi- gan, well stocked with fish, with several small lakes around. After St. Lin, we come to St. Julienne, eight or nine miles north of which, near Rawdon, 'A Swift Mountain Stream' are the Darwin Falls, on the Lac Ouareau River, to which the Great Northern Railway are extending their line this summer. Here, with out doubt, there will soon arise another bust ling town. It will be noticed how the whole country is covered with farms and their attendant out houses. To judge of the prosperity of the farmers around, a jour ney needs to be made on a Saturday or Sun day, when visits are being exchanged with distant friends. From the gorgeous silks and bonnets of the ladies, their respective hus bands must have either a fat pocket-book or a Darwin Falls {<)5 feet high\ very soft head and heart, and appearances hardly warrant the latter pre sumption. Between St. Julienne and Montcalm there is noth ing to attract attention, but nine miles to the north lies the village of Rawdon, the centre of the best trout fishing in the Province of Quebec. At Joliette connection is made with the line from Montreal. Hawkesbury to Joliette — Sporting Guide to this Section. Lachute — Twenty miles north a number of Lakes known as ' ' Sixteen Island Lakes," well stocked with trout and perch. Along the North River, bass. ST. Jerome — Ten or twelve miles north of here is the lake district of St. Angelique, rich in red and grey trout ; and in the woods are red deer, grouse and rabbits. NEW Glasgow — Good fly trout fishing above the Falls. In Lake L'Achi- gan, eleven miles away, there are bass, large grey and some red trout. A few miles north, in the Lakes, bass are plentiful. St. Julienne — Nine miles north, the Lac Oureau River has excellent trout fishing. In the Fall, woodcock shooting in the flat lands. Montcalm — A little back from here, lies Rawdon Village, around which are streams and lakes containing bass, grey and red trout in great numbers. -"¦' f-m: Chapter III. Joliette — Shawinigan Falls. JOLIETTE, a town of nearly five thousand inhabitants, situated on L'Assomption River, has perhaps made more practical use of its river than any town in Eastern Canada. Saw mills, paper mills, a foundry — wherever the different level has allowed of a working head of water there is a manufactory to use it. Iu addition, the Corporation uses the river to light the town, and pump its own water for the town's supply. The saw mills of William Copping, started in 1892, alone employ over 100 hands, and handle 140,000 logs per annum. The town itself contains some dozen or so other manufactories and several good hotels. The Great Northern Hotel, just outside the station, has been newly built, and is now open to visitors. In L'Assomption River the fisherman will be rewarded for his patience and skill, by the maskinonge, dor_, etc., whilst plenty of small game are to be found in the woods around. Lying thirty miles to the northward is the Mastigouche Fish and Game Club House. The market-place reminds the traveller who has visited Europe, of some quaint old French town, and on a market-day the chatter and animated gesticulations of the French-Cana dian add further to the resemblance. A very fine college is situated near the river, set amidst grounds extending to the water's edge, almost of the nature of a park. The Catholic Cathedral is also worthy of notice, although the tower (now being rebuilt) was blown down in a great storm in 1901. On leaving Joliette nothing in the shape of a town is to be met with until Shawinigan Falls is reached. The intervening sixty miles, however, are very well sprinkled with villages and farms : St. Elizabeth, St. Norbert, St. Cuthbert, and ~"> St. Barthelemi, Saw Mills\and Pulp Milts at Toliette being farming villages of fair size— a great hay-producing country lying to the south. It will be noticed how the hills on the left are now closing in nearer, the line running practically on the northern limit of the culti vated country. When near St. Barthelemi there can be seen, far away in the distance, the St. Lawrence, like a silver streak, as it makes its way ocean ward. A fine trestle bridge, two miles or so before St. Justin, gives warning that what was the most troublesome piece of road to build is now approach ing. For the next thirty or forty miles the line traverses a country broken up by deep gullies, which necessitated the construc tion of a great num be r of bridges. Riviere du Loup Bridge Half way between St. Justin and St. Ursule comes the highest bridge on the road — the Maskinonge Trestle. The River Maskinonge falls here about 180 feet, right alongside the track, and a bridge 1,030 feet long and 163 feet high was necessary to span the gap. The line crosses the upper level of the river, which then bends at a right angle and drops nearly sheer into the ravine below, turning off again at right angles as it cuts its way through the table-land to join the St. Lawrence. After leaving St. Ursule (which lies away on the right) the land be comes more and more broken up and wooded, and farms no longer appear. A mile or two beyond St. Paulin a grand view is to be had of the valley ^^^mm"%^ of the St. Lawrence, lying far away below us, whilst to the left are seen the Lauren tians silhouetted against the sky. Some ten or twelve miles north of St. Paulin are the club-houses of the St. Bernard Fish and Game Club. Before reaching the next sta- t i o n another long bridge has to be passed — the Riviere du Loup One of the Club Houses Bridge. This bridge, 930 feet long and 128 feet high, passes over the valley of the Riviere du Loup, the course of which can be traced as far as the eye can reach either way, by the clean-cut defiles it has made through the land. Eight miles south are the famous St. Leon Springs. Known years ago to the Red-men of the forest for their marvellous medicinal pro perties, their waters are now shipped all over America, and a palatial hotel, with accommoda tion for some hundreds of guests, Maskinonge will be opened shortly. A wooded park of some sixty acres surrounds the hotel, and the lovely country around, with its fishing and shooting, gives it unrivalled charms as a health resort. Charette's Mill is the stopping point for three well-known fish aud game clubs — Shawinigan Club, Winchester Club and Club des Souris. More Lake Vermont, controlled by St. Bernard Fish and Game Club «, trestles, then St. Boniface, the country getting more and more hilly. At Bun-ill's Siding there will be noticed immense stacks of lumber and bark, this being the depot for a large lumbering business carried on by the first Mayor of Shawinigan Falls. Five more miles, through St. Flore station, and over still more trestles and bridges, and Shawinigan Junction I is reached. Here the I line branches off by a I "Y " to Shawinigan Falls, I the trains first running into the station there, and I then back, on to Grand Mere. Lake Pizagonke — Shawinigan Club\ House in distance St. Flore Bridge Joliette to Shawinigan — Sporting Guide to this Section. Joliette — Following up the river, maskinonge and dore can be secured, the smaller streams holding trout. Further back among the hills, large grey trout, bass. etc. Small game plentiful all round. ST. CuThbhrt or St. Barthelemi— North of here lies the Maskinonge Lake, on the shores of which is located St. Gabriel de Brandon. The village has two hotels. Maskinonge are large and plentiful in the lake ; some have been caught weighing 65 lbs., and they generally average from 15 to 30 lbs. Within a radius of ten miles are a number of smaller lakes and trout sti earns which afford excellent fishing. Beyond lie the famed Mastigouche Lakes, fifty in number. The majority' of these are leasedto the Mas tigouche Fishing Club, which has establisheda club house on Lake Simeon, and are not open to the general public ; but vi s i t i n g sportsmen, pro perly introduced, have little diffi culty in obtain- Waterfall near I^ake Pizagonke\ ing the privileges of membership either here or at other club houses in the Province. These lakes are reached from St. Gabriel de Brandon, over a fifteen-mile road which follows the Mastigouche River. The country is well timbered and well settled, and throughout the district there are numerous caribou ; bears are occasionally met, rabbits are plentiful, and there is capital partridge and fairly good duck shooting. ST. Paulin — Twelve miles north of here is the St. Bernard Fish and Game Club, with headquarters and club house on Lake Saccommie. General W. W. Henry, U. S. Consul, Quebec, is President, and E. N. Sanderson, of New York, Secretary. The club has a membership of fifty, controls fishing rights in twenty lakes and has a hunting lease covering one hundred square miles. Fishing is good also in the River du Loup but a mile or two away. Charette's Mill — Around here is a marvellous country for fish and game of all sorts. The Shawinigan Club, with home on Lake Pizagnnke, is situated in as lovely a spot as could be wished for. Trout in here run good weight. Back further flows the Mattawin River, which can be followed down till it reaches the St Maurice, twenty-six miles above Grand Piles (a trip to be taken, however, only with experienced guides). Along its shores, moose, caribou and deer are fairly numerous, and fine duck shooting is to be had in the autumn. Bears are also numerous. Nearer the railroad are to be found the club houses of the Winchester Club and the Club des Souris. ST. Boniface. — Four miles from here, by good road, are several small lakes teeming with trout. Permission for fishing must be had of Mr. V. Burrill, of Shawinigan Falls, who holds permits for disposal. A Club Party off for a Fishing Trip Chapter IV. Shawinigan Falls. TO fully grasp the significance of this locality it would be as well to have a general idea of the St. Maurice River and its watershed . Some four hundred miles in length, and, together with its tributaries, draining an area of 18,000 square miles, it has its source away back in the height of land that divides the St. Lawrence watershed from that of the Hudson Bay. Its waters run for the most part rapidly, are sometimesdeep, and have navigable sec tions of con siderable len gth. The upper portion above La Tuque is little used, but from Grand Piles(tenmilesabove Shawi nigan ) to La Tuqueasteam- er runs regu larly all the summer ; a round trip of one hundred and forty miles, for the most part through forest primeval. At La Tuque there is a fine water-fall. Some eight miles above Shawinigan, at Grand Mere, the river takes a drop of forty-six feet ; then, flowing along smoothly for a mile or two, some rapids known as "Les Hetres " are reach ed ; after which the stream goes along quietly and soberly, as if preparing it- sel f for the maddest leap it has yet to make. After the fall at "Achauene- kame,"* as the In dians called Shawi nigan, there is but one more drop at " Les Gr_s " (six La Tuque Falls * Meaning "Needlework," the Falls, hv a flight of fancv the glittering bead and quill work of the In "Han women. Grand Piles recalling resemblance to i— Hotel _>- Cotton Mill ? — Carbide U'o>ks _} — Second Development 5— Pulp Mill 6 — A hi m in u ni I Corks io —Poiver House ii — Log Slide 12 — Electric Railway The Upper Bay miles down), after which, twenty miles below Shawinigan, the St. Maurice River quietly loses itself in the broad bosom of the St. Lawrence at Three Rivers. This brief description of the St. Maurice being ended, we may now more minutely study the greatest natural feature in its course. It will be seen by a glance at the plan, that after sweeping past the town the river is divided into two branches by a large is land, the main channel broadening out into what is known as the " Upper Bay " and making a considerable detour before coming Left Branch {H'intcr, to the Falls. The other branch is comparatively shallow, and in fact, in a very dry summer the river bed is nearly dry. Not so, however, the Upper Bay — here the stream has a depth of twenty to thirty-five feet during the greatest drought, and always presents a broad expanse of water. Nearing the Falls the waters flow more and more swiftly, gathering speed as the channel narrows again. Then the land commences to break away and the river makes a shoot forward and downward, its volume swelled by the other branch now uniting. Down, still down, but still forward — then a rush through sheer space ; its mighty volume and speed carrying the whole river bodily through the air for some yards before gravitation conquers ; and then, with a mad roar, with flying foam and spray, as if in writhing anger at having to return to confinement, the waters dash themselves against the granite cliffs confin ing the chasm at the base of the Falls. In these cliffs have been worn great caves, and consider ing the infinite time this awful force has been exerted, there can be no doubt that below the water line the rock must be hollowed out and un dermined to a very con siderable distance. The Above "ie Falls river now turns very sharply, running for about a thousand feet through a narrow defile or gorge, and falling another twenty-five feet before broaden ing out into the Lower Bay. Here the hard black rock is left behind and a fine sand takes its place. In the flood season the water rises some fifteen to twenty feet in the basin at the foot of the Falls, owing to the gorge being too narrow to carry it away quickly enough. It is at such times that the Falls appear in their full and terrible beaut}- ; — spray rising a hundred feet in the air, gigantic waves dashing against the opposite cliffs, and the roar filling the mind with a sense of the Infinite and a conviction of what puny things we meukind are. And it has been advertised as " The Niagara of the East !" The wildest, grandest cascade in the world to bask in the reflective glory of Niagara ! " Truly a prophet is not with out honor save in his own coun try." The Falls may be view e d from sev eral differ ent points, according to the en ergy of the party. The best gen eral view is to be obtained from the Almaville side, by taking the ferry across the Upper Bay to the Village of Almaville, and then follow ing the path through the wood to the lit tle inn, perched like a Swiss cha let on the hill. From the slop ing ground in front of this, the Falls can be seen in their entirety and the drop of one hundred and fifty feet fully realized. By clambering down the rocks a little to the right, a visit can be made (except at flood time) to a cave, where the rock has been eaten away for thirty-five feet by the waters. In here the roar is magnified to a deafening point, and, lying down with one's In the Gorge Below the J-alls gry mutterings of the water, and the mind fearfully wonders how far under foot it may have penetrated. On the other side of the river one can approach near enough to touch the seething waters (although it is not advisable to try), and a good path, with seats at intervals, leads from the top of the Falls down to the gorge below. One moment the waters are seen rush ing down, down, down ; then, as one descends, the river can be seen precipitating itself into space ; and when we reach the bottom of the path, lo ! a wall of raging waters is towering above our heads. There is, b.it one sight to excel that of Shawinigan Falls on a bright sunny day ; and that is Shawinigan Falls by; moonlight, and then admira tion is lost in a feeling almost akin to reverence. The traveller, after hear ing that this neighbour hood was but a few years ago known only to the lumbermen and Indians, will be surprised on his arrival to find a town with over five thousand inhabi tants; an industrial develop ment based on engineering The (jorgt in Winter The' Overflow" Falls, only occurring at High il'ater works, the largest in Canada ; and (what will perhaps appeal most immediately to the feel ings), a real comfortable hotel. As "Home " for the time being, let it be the first described. Situated on a hill, two min utes' walk from the station, it is elevated one hundred feet above the town which it over looks. In outward appearance of the early English style of architecture, its interior has been planned with every regard to comfort and artistic taste. A wide verandah runs the length of the front, from which the broad expanse of the St. Maurice River and a splendid panorama of hills and forest can be viewed for miles. The interior conveniences of the house leave nothing to be desired — electric lights, electric bells, bath rooms, billiard room, barber shop, etc., daintily furnished rooms singly or en suite, and a first-class table, indeed give cause for the intense surprise that such things can possibly have come to pass in less than two years. All ar rangements can be made at the office for teams for driving to various points of interest, and for boats or a steam-launch for river trips. Approaching the Cave (Winter) ^ bathing cove is situated within a short distance of the hotel, where a sandy bottom and the absence of any current, makes the early morning dip a pleasure to be anticipated and relished. Chapter V. E N G I N E E RING W 0 R I - S AT Shawinigan F o N the way the hotel seendeuce of gineering dertaken, and it ma here to give a brief what has been don Province by the Sh Water and Powe pany, of Montrea Company began oper in 1 899, and, two later, had practic c o m p 1 eted the fi great instalment their intended devel opment of 100,000 horse-power. The natural features of the land made this locality an ideal spot for the develop- in e n t of waterpow-eratcom-p a r a t i vely 1 o w cost. ¦ The hilt which fails amnio the water flowing ul iti ha The river, bend - ing as it does below the Falls ; and then broad ening out un til the lower part runs par allel with the upper, but one hundred and fifty feet below ; only re quired the cutting of a canal from its high er level to the edge of the hill which falls away to the water flowing at its base, to give a minimum head of one hundred and thirty feet. At the end of this canal is built a dam or bulkhead, in the base of which are set the penstocks, (or large pipes), which carry the water tc the power house below. This cana! is one thousand feet long by one hundred feet wide and twenty feel deep, and was excavated out of solid rock. The left side is of temporary character only, allowing an easy removal when the canal is widened for further power development. The bulkhead tapers from thirty-two feet at the base, to fifteen feet fitly, igoo May, 1001 at the top, on which is built the gate-house. The penstocks are 500 feet long, and are made of iron plates five-six teenths to seven-six teenths of an inch in This canal is 1000 feet long by 100 feet wide and 2ofeetdeep, and was excavated out of solid 1 ock " thickness. The diameter of each pipe is nine feet, and each carries down sufficient water to produce 5,000 horse-power in the power house below. The Shawinigan Company supplies water through the longest pipe to the power house of the Royal Aluminum Company. In the power house of the Shawinigan Company there can be seen some Inside View of Bulkhead {before completion'^ of the finest machiuery of its kind in the world, the big water wheels, each of 6,000 horse power capacity, being the largest yet built. The only motion that the eye can see here is the revolution of the large and small genera tors : — it being left to the imagination the knowledge that through the huge pipes enter ing the power house there are rushing vast streams of water from a height of one hundred and thirty feet ; that inside a steel cas ing the water wheels are rapid ly rotating under the full force of the stream, their axles directly con nected to, and re volving, the gen erators, which are gathering out of space that mys terious unknown energy that scien tists have named " Electricity." Here is the birth place, so to speak, of the power that is to run manufactories in places even so far distant as Montreal. One should not leave without a glance at the electric travelling crane, which, by the touch of a handle, noiselessly glides to and fro, and is capable of mov ing a fifty-ton load. ( Lest it should be thought an omission that no technical description of the machinery is given, the following extract from the engineer s report on the generator may perhaps be sufficient excuse : " The rotating field spider will be constructed of the best quality of cast-iron. The pole pieces will be of laminated steel ; the pole pieces and field winding being so pro portioned as to reduce the armature re-action and self-induction to a low limit!") One ofthe Big Penstocks Inside the Power-house The birthplace of the Power thai is to run Manufactories .... even so far dntant as Monti car The smaller power house, belonging to the Royal Aluminum Company, is very similar, but on a smaller scale, and supplies elec tricity to their works hill above. Below the waters borne d o w n by the penstocks are d i s - charged ; their task of setting into motion a hive of industry now Second Development, 1000-igox being finished. A second power development has also been completed. It will have been noticed, whilst coming along the high shore of the Upper Bay, that the land suddenly narrows to a ridge some six or eight feet in width. On one side is the St. Maurice, on the other, the land drops away one hundred and fifty feet down to the Lit- tie Shawinigan River. A concrete bulkhead .- ~-— -~. built on the river bed (protected by s^ an outer crib The Electric Railwa v dam), guards this ridge, where it is pierced by two penstocks eleven feet in diameter and of 15,000 horse-power capacity. These are for the use of the Belgo-Canadian Pulp Company, and run down to their mill, which can be seen at the foot of the gully. Another important engineering work is the electric railway, which runs from the station right round the Upper Bay, past the canal, down the hill over several trestle bridges, then along the Little Shawinigan River to the Pulp Mill. Passenger trains at frequent intervals are now running. When observing all these demon strations of man's activity, let it be remembered that so lat as 1S99 the entire ground was covered with forest to the water's edg and only frequented by the lumbermen and Indians when making a portage to avoid the Falls. Omnia V i ncit labor. The town is _ direct conse quence of the power develop ment and has grown with start ling rapidity. Th illustration on next The "Alpha and Omega " of /lie Pulp Mill page shows the appearance, at short intervals, of one particular part of the town as it was quickly evolved out of the uncleared forest. The visitor can have all his wants supplied at practically city prices, thanks to the easy communication with Montreal and Quebec, as any attempt at over-charging would assuredly send the order to one of those two cities. A pretty little Anglican Church, ou Maple Avenue, provides for the more serious'side of life to those of the Protestant faith, whilst, asbehooves a The Evolution of the Town fl_ HluuEr ~ -^?^vi _J_l__4Hte - v J_MB__HH__ Hit _r; wi.'-. *,lB^-Jp_-_5__-_- %__-- ^ ins "«* '^MpHnv- — "£E^i5^^ --"-"£— flfl___Kf q' _& 7_£ Anglican Church Catholic Pro vince, an $80,000 building is near ly completed for those who are of the Church of Rome . Some very tasty pri vate residences are dotted about the town. The municipality has erected a hand some brick and stone City Hall in which the Mayor and his Coun- An electric trolley cillors deliberate on the weighty questions of the day. line will soon be running through the city, which is already well lighted by electricity. Financial circles are represented by the Bank of Ottawa aiid the Quebec Bank, both of which have established branches here. Reference has been made to the Royal Alumin um Company and the Belgo-Can adian Pulp Company. The manufacture of aluminum by the electro lytic process neces sitates a largesuppl y Types of Private Residences of electricity, and the Pitts burgh Reduc tion Comp any, of world wide fame, who were the first people to take advantage of the inducements held ' out by this locality, are now operating on a large scale. The Pulp Company, as the name implies, is of Belgian origin, which serves to show that the fame of Shawinigan Falls has already reached Europe. Here are located what will soon be the largest pulp and paper mills on the Con tinent, and where can be seen the metamor-phosis of a tree- trunk into paper. The Com pany owns about 1,000 square miles of choice timber limits in the St. Maurice watershed, and has an army of men away in the backwoods felling timber, which, by the converted energy of this waterfall, is to be soon after used in the shape of books and papers both in America and Europe. Calcium carbide works are situated a short distance from the town, alongside the railroad, and a cotton mill will shortly give employment to the weaker portion of the community. In spite of the manufactories al ready in opera- tion, and the immediate pros pects of many more, thanks to the natural for- mation of the place and the scientific laying out of the ground, the near vicinity of the Falls themselves will never be encroached upon ; and this is to be the more wondered at when the magnitude of the plan of the power development be comprehended. The present canals and works are laid out for the use of 75,000 horse-power, and the plans call for a further 25,000 horse-power, mak ing a total of one hundred thousand horse - power, which is to be used either locally or transmitted to Montreal, etc. At the present time the Shawinigan Water and Power Co. are build ing their pole line for the transmission of the electric current to Mont real, where they will de liver the cheapest light heat and power from the largest power plant i n world, — with the single exce tion (in size only) of Nia A large amount of business already been secured, and ever increasing demand cheap power makes it assured that but a little time can elapse ere a heavy per centage of the electrical energy from Shawinigan Falls will be used in Canada's metropolis. Wheu travelling by the Great Northern Rail way from Montreal to Shawinigan, the trans mission line may be noticed running parallel to the railroad. This fact is of considerable import ance when the question "he Belgo-Canadian Pulp Co.'s Mill of cost of construction and maintenance be considered. In spite of a journey of eighty-four miles from its birthplace in the power-house, the electrical current has lost but little of its first full power on arrival in the city of Montreal ; and when it is driving the street cars, lighting the streets and houses, and operating manufactories of all kinds, then the enterprise of the The Lower End of the Town Shawinigan Water and Power Co. in transforming a trackless waste into a prosperous manufacturing town, and making such things possible, will be appreciated by both the trading community and the individual. Great praise must be meted out to Wallace C. Johnson, Esq., (of Niagara Falls Development fame), the Chief Engineer of the Company, whose fertile brain originated and carried out this huge engineering plan which has transposed the first conception of what might be, into the assured success that is. Nor must Messrs. T. Pringle & Son, Hydraulic and Mining Engineers, of Montreal, be forgotten, for to them is the credit of the survey work' and construction of the canal, etc. Who shall dare to limit the commercial possibilities of towns having such a wealth of electrical power to draw upon : power that is cheap, and power that is practically unlimited. " I hear the tread of pioneers " Of a nation yet to be, " The first low hum of waves, where soon " Shall roll the human sea." One of the Penstocks that feed the Pulp Mill [during construction) Chapter VI. Rambles Around Shawinigan. THE visitor at Shawinigan need have no anxiety as to what to do with the twenty-four hours of each day. Recreation can be had in ways to suit all. For a certainty the first objective point will be the Falls. There, sitting on one of the many seats or lying on the ground, minutes will lapse into hours before one can tear themselves away. By following the path through the trees on the right, glimpses of the river tearing down the gorge are seen, the contrast of the white foam of the waters and the dark green of the trees calling for continual admiration- The end of this path brings into view the log slide, the top of which was passed on our way to the Falls. Logs floating down the stream would assuredly lose their identity in going over the Falls, and so to avoid this loss- the Government some years ago built a water chute. By means of a broad timber boom, anchored to the river bed above the Falls, the logs are guided through a funnel-shape approach to the slide, as it is colloquially called. Dropping one hundred and forty feet in four hundred and fifty, it may be imagined what velocity the logs acquire by the time the bottom is reached. It is possible to sit right on the end of the slide, and (in the log running- season during the summer) watch one continual procession of huge trunks whiz by. An hour or two may be very agreeably spent in the charming sylvan recesses of Melville's Island, taking a boat across or walking by way of the boom mentioned before. The shores nearest the town are very Gorge and Lozuer Bay [Summer and, Wintei) beautiful, and with three or foursmallislets ly ing close in to the main island, the most enjoy able boating can be had within half a mile from the hotel. The river may also be followed up to wards G r a'n d The Log-slide [looking up and down) Mere, some lovely stretches of water mak ing sailinga favorite sport. Leaving the St. Maurice River for the time and taking the road down to the Little ShawiniganRiver, there is another cascade to be seen. The Little Shawini gan River, breaking down from the hills to join the St. Maurice, drops one hundred and eighty feet in a series of cascades. The best way of seeing these is to take a punt up the river as far as is possible, and then follow the right bank. Although the tourist will find it a rather rough walk he will be well repaid for his trouble. The upper reach of the river, flowing between wooded cliffs, is most beautiful, and can be reached by a flight of steps leading down from the Great Northern Railway track or from the road to Drew's Mill. The Lower Bay also offers facilities for boating, and on no account must be missed a visit to " Les Gres " Falls, six miles down. Apart from the Fall On Melville's Island Yachting on the St. Maurice itself, which is very fine, there is one of the most charming little villages imaginable. White-washed cottages, on a street overgrown with grass, over which poultry and pigs apparently hold right of way — what was once a thriving little place now appears as though it might have been the original of Goldsmith's " Deserted Village. " A splen did canoe trip is to start off in the early morning, make a portage at Les Gres, and then float down on the stream to Three Rivers, catching the evening train back to the hotel. There is a good road along the shore of the Lower Bay to the Government House, from which one may branch off in two or three directions. Taking the road to St. Boni face, we are led up and down steep hills and through woods until the higher level of land is reached. Then behind us, in the distance, can be Cascades on the Little Shawinigan Gorge on the Little Shawinigan seen Shawinigan Falls glisten the roofs of St Boniface. Re turning by way of the Little Shawini gan River, an equally wild road is traversed, termin ating in a steep descent into the Village of " Mud- ville," so christen ed in the early A Portage period of the development work by the engineers, who were more truthful than complimentary. Within easy driving distance is the town of Grand lviere. The drive takes about one and a half hours, and presents at one point (St. I-lore Hill) the grandest view of open country it is possible to imagine. Grand Mere is referred to later. The Lower Ba v Upper Reaches ofthe I ittle Shaannigan Within ten miles is situated the club house of the Lauren tian Fish and Game Club, whose members frequently drive over to the Falls in summer. Those who appreciate glimpses into phases of life hitherto unknown to them, cannot fail but be both interested and instructed by a visit to one of the many lumber camps dotted around this district. Making one's way to Burrill's Siding, either across country or by taking train to the Junction and then fol- lowing the pioneer life S|j|l£, 'Jrf'-^-.'t, "1 as literal as though l|^p«^»^|f^^^2 - Cy jt were a couple of -/'*>^H. ' y^li' lla-vs camP- pedition in- ~" to the virgin forest with The Old Ferry at Mudville „„ IndiarJ guide, will prove an enjoyable experience and one long to be remembered. About ten miles away lies Lac a la Tortue (so called from its fancied resemblance to the shape of the tortoise) . This can be reached by crossing In the Woods over to Almaville and tak ing the road to the left at the top of the hill, fhe lake bottom is fairly rich in iron %s' ' "re- an'l a dred ger is generally at work on the lake raising it to the sur face. Another very pleasant ramble is to take the path to the little inn facing the Falls, and con tinue right ou the old portage path which leads down to the Lower Bay If it were not for the fact of the river being low and the Falls conse quently far from their best, the ideal time to visit this district is in the late fall. The foliage of the trees is then in all those gorgeous hues that only Nature dare show. The maple, with leaves ranging in shade from the palest chrome yellow to deep crimson, the ash, hemlock, birch, and the dark green of the graceful pines, give a mass of color that must be seen to be appreciated. A walk through the woods at such a time, the ground carpeted with crimson, is like a revelation of fairyland. The tourist who carries a camera (and who does not now-a-days?) is going to have a busy time around here. The writer has himself seen some fifty views of the Falls, all different and, what is more, all " Pictures." It may be remarked here that late in the afternoon is the best time- to get a good picture of the Falls, ffer num erous attrac tive ca noe rout es. This river may be followed lo its head waters, from which s Ii o r t portages lead to the upper waters the Gatineau, and the Ottawa to the west. The form er route by canoe can be terminated at Grace- / field, sixty - one miles tm / north of Ottawa city, with which it is con nected by rail ; and the ther (via Jean de Terre, Desert River, the Tomasine, Lac Barriere, Orand Lac Vic toria and Lake Temiskaming) Teiniskaming, where a branch railway leads to Mattawa, on the main line of the C. P. R., three hundred and eighteen miles from Montreal. Either of these trips hould occupy four or five weeks if ken leisurely, but could be made in, Rivet side Walk above the Town Wab- caching follow down on the Lower Ottawa, Montreal, part of this er. A variation of this trip River and Lake Mejomangoos and This trip need occupy little more than probably, three weeks without an>- undue haste b ei n g required. A shorter trip is to leave the St. Maurice at the Manouan, and proceeding by Lac ashontyunk and Nemi- to the Forks of the Lievre, that river to Buckingham, between Ottawa City and journey being made by steam- can also be made by Big Trout down the Lievre to Buckingham. a fortnight. Instead of going up the Manouan, the St. Maurice can be followed to Lac Asiniwan, and Lac des Battures de Sable, and thence to Lac Au Male, from which both the Ottawa and the Gatineau and Lievre may be reached, through one of the finest game countries on the continent, in which there is also unsurpassed fishing. If a more ex tended trip is de sired — one reach ing into that far- l/MVff_-J Beating near the Hotel Bathing in Upper Bay ther north whose solitudes- are as yet almost un broken, there are splen did routes leading by way of Lakes Obutiagama and Chibiogouma to the re mote Mistassini Lake, the great inland sea of which so little is known, except that it abounds in fish, and that caribou and wild fowl may be shot in its neighborhood in great numbers. By other routes, Lake St. John to the east may be reached either by the Askitiche and Nicabeau and the Chamouchouan River ; by the Little Bostonnais River ; by the Big Bostonnais River, and by La Croche River, and then from lake to lake. Along the St. Maurice and its tributaries are scattered a number of settlers, and the Hudson's Bay Company has estab lished posts at La Tuque ; at Coocoocache, forty-two miles distant from La Tuque ; Weymontaching, forty miles from Coocoocache ; Kickendatch, sixty miles further ; and Manowan, sixty-five miles from Weymontachaing. The routes mentioned above do not include all that can be profitably followed, for diversions can be made by countless streams, each with its own characteristic scenery and sport. Lauren Honof th Shawinigan Falls — Sporting Guide 1 Twelve miles back, at Lac la Peche, lies the I " Bon Homme " Afugwando, a famous old Indian Guide Quonongamac and Wessonneau, each six or The Little Shawinigan River usual ly furnishes heavy strings of trout, as handsome and as game as can be taken anywhere, and big ones are fairly plenti ful. Up further north, towards Lake Cari bou, the big game of that name can be found ; also bears. At one time the moose was a fre quenter of this n e i g h b o rhood , but now one has to go back some way to find them. A few miles a- way there are several lakes from a half mile to four miles in length, owned by Mr. V. Burrill of Shawinigan Falls. These lakes, together with sc—e thous ands of acres of game country 1 1 this Section. aurentian Club, of which W. H. Parker is the resident Managing D i - rector. The club has a member ship of two hun dred and fifty, and, apart from the club house proper, has ele ven camps, all well furnished, and five of them have resident guardians and cooks through out the season. Included among the lakes con trolled by the club, are Lakes seven miles in' length. After Deer — A Temporary Obstacle around, offer a great chance for the formation of a Fish and Game Club. The whole land to the north is practically covered with forest, with everywhere, the the haunts of the with smaller ani- dance. It it in- one or two places Guides are to be difficulty, and, if a ed, all the shoot- streams and lakes shores of which are caribou and deer, mal life in abun- vidious to mention where all are good. , -" ' *^S§ obtained without C. 7 "<~/ good man be secur- XJ ing and fishing that can be desired will be found in great variety. Shawinigan Falls can be made the centre for hunting and fishing excursions to the wild regions of the upper St. Maurice. Proceeding by train to Grand Piles, the steamer can be taken from there up to La Tuque, or accommodation can -».,»_.-_».—_. '3e secure(i at tne Mat- tawin Farm at the ._^*?i_l_£j^!w^'2_Ha____. mouth of the Mat- __4r3_8^^__-li ___"^ y * l_^W_<_R_9W tawin River, or .v^^SfflSfifr 5sSt ' 'yXSJ&k -_$*j__J__ at Riviere aux Rats Farm >^^B(?^^^(^^^B^W '..' .Pfibh_ on the Rat River. ___!*?, W. '¦*?>&;.. !&1? ' &_H_E_____-?_i_%i_-_. F r o m either of two place tions can be miles into thick with bou, deer, andpartrid- up to the have hardly bed. In lakes no been cast ; those with- tance ofthe but little addition to one can fail pressed magnificent scenery; the waterfalls dyeing especially wild and picturesque. Three a'boat, and what thev caught for dinr, these e x p 1 or a - m a d e for a coun try moose, cari- duck. geese, ge , which presentbeen distur- many ofthe line has yet and even in easy dis- villages are known. In the sport no but be im- w i t h t he I u almost every lake and stream through out this district the fish fairly swarm ; and but a fair day's catch here would be re garded as phe nomenal in oth er localities. The trout are especiallygreedy, rising for practically anything, and a pathetic little ballad on this failing of theirs may well close the chapter : — Trout Lake near Shawinigan ' ' Big trout see'd a beautiful fly coming down , " That he thought 'nd go better inside, " And he up and he swallowed it ; ah, poor soul ! " Why 'adn't he let 'un bide." Chapter VII. Grand M_;re — Riviijre a Pierre. RAND MERE, situated about eight miles above Shawinigan, is a town entirely dependent on one Company. The St. Maurice River here, falling some forty-six feet, was some years ago taken in hand by the Laurentide Pulp Company, who started operations in a small way in 1887. From time to time their works have been increased, and are now a striking example of what a pulp and paper G' mill ought to be. When it bemen- t i o 11 e d that the annual output of paper, cardboard and pulp, amounts to 85,000 tons, not to speak of fifteen mil lion feet of timber, some idea may be The " Groud-mollier " Rock gathered of the extent of their operations. To supply the enormous demand for logs thus created, the Company has about 2,500 men out in the woods, (some, hundreds of miles av\ _ y). nd ever 1, ceo hi rji^ie m \ 1< }id in tk< mills. The water pipes fed from a short •canal, cut at an angle to the river just above the F'alls, and a forty-six foot head is thea- verage used. A first-rate hotel, own ed by the C o m pa ny, known as the "Laurentide Inn,'' is within a few . f , Small Watei fall near Laurentide fun 111 1 11 u t e,s walk of the works, and overlooks a splendid reach of the river. A stream joining the St. Maurice makes a pretty little Fall just beyond. The St. Maurice drops at Grand Mere in three falls, an island dividing the river into two streams, the one nearest the works being sub-divided by a huge tree-girt rock. It was from this rock that the Falls obtained their name, one part of it being most curiously fashioned by nature into an old woman's face. Under certain conditions of light the profile is weird ly life-like, and was re garded by the Indians in by-gone days with much reverence and awe. Below the Falls the river broadens into quite St. Flore Village _ ,.,.__ and th_n narrows down again between high cliffs, where it is spanned by the Great Northern Railway Bridge. The town has not much to offer in the way of attractions. but a day or two can be agreeably spent in wandering along the river banks, watching the log driving, and paying a visit to the picturesque village of St. Flore. On leaving Grand Mere the line takes a big sweep, crossing the river by a fine iron bridge eight hundred and thirty feet long, at an altitude of eighty feet above the water. The scenery around is superb in its wild beauty, and a sigh of regret must escape when " good-bye " is at last said to the St. Maurice as the train nears Garneau Junction. Here the Canadian Pacific Rail way crosses the tracks of the Great Northern on its way to Grand Piles. After pass ing Garneau (from which place a new line is being construe ted to St. Cathe rine's, shortening the journey to Quebec by about twenty miles) the hills recede further northwards ; and, consequently, the land again show signs of cultivation ; St. Tite, the next station, being the centre of a fine agricultural district, with a population Grand Mere Brid of 3,400. A quaint little town is this, and one which the sportsman may kindly regard, for within easy distance there are many lakes and streams abounding in trout ; and game of all sorts (including an occasional moose) St. Tile is plentiful. Several fish and game clubs lie some six miles north ; amongst others being Club Archange, St. Maurice Club and Frontenac Club. The admirer of those charming natural history stories of William Davenport Hulbert, in McClure's Magazine ("The Beaver" in particular), may, around here, have a practical demonstration of that animal's ingenuity and patience, as there are quite a number of places showing evidence of their engineering skill, to bes discovered by careful search. Running through another small village, eight miles more brings into view a large sheet of water known as ' ' Lac aux Sables," which, as the name implies, is the favorite haunt of these highly prized little animals. There is a great chance here for some enter prising capitalist. Given : a lake on which boating can be indulged to one's heart's content, smaller lakes all around teeming with fish (in many of which a line has yet to be cast), the lovely Batiscan Valley within a few miles, a railroad journey of but seventy-five miles to Quebec, air sweetened with the scent of the pine- clad hills around — then premise the erection of a first- class hotel. Ver- Nineiy Minutes Work, near Lac aux Sables bum sap. The line follows the south shore of the lake for a consider able distance, then branches off, and the first glimpse is caught of the Batiscaii River. This river, having its source away north towards Lake St. John, is second ill beauty only to the St. Maurice. In size and volume it cannot, of course, compare with the river that has made Shawinigan famous ; but- here, rushing with fierce glee through wooded valleys ; there, splashing and tumbli) round the huge bou that strew its path ; t tearing past rugged cli as though anxious to e: cape from such majestic company: ithas charms that many 1 streams entirely At Notre Dam A n g e s , afte small Fall, t river winds pas the village on its best be havior, but, as the en gine be- g i n s to c 1 i in b the as centt o Riv iere _ Pier re, keep- ng it in company, its true cha r ac t e r soon begins to assert itself. R o u s s e a u ' s Mill, a mile or two further on, is a little hamlet sprung up around a saw-mill, and makes an uniquely pretty sight, nestling as it does under the dark hills in the back-ground. All this locality is extremely rich in streams and lakes, in which are fish simply waiting to be caught. With the exception ol" a few little saw-mills (in which it will be noticed the whole country abounds) no signs of habitation is now to be seen before joining the Quebec and Lake ; o h n Railway at Riviere a Pierre ; this last section of the road being, with- o ti t exception, the most wild and pictur esque yet met with on the journey. Riviere a Lac aux Sa bh\\ Pierre, (from which place the Quebec and Lake St. John road proceeds northwards along the Upper Batiscaii Valley and up over the hills to the far-famed Lake St. John and the Saguenay ); is but a collection of cot- ^^^^^^^^^^^ tages, with one hotel (or rather boarding house) for the accommodation of fishermen, etc. It can serve as splendid head quarters for fishing excur sions along the Batiscan River andjts many small tributary streams. From here the line pursues its way south to Quebec. Grand Me;re to Riviere a Pierre— Sporting Guide to this Section St. Tite— Several fish and game clubs six miles north of here— St. Maurice Club (with a membership of A Laurentian Lake 120), Fronteuac Club and Club Archange. Lac Pierre Paul, a mile or two east, has good perch, fishing. Moose in the back country. Plenty of small game everywhere. Good accommodation can be obtained in the village. Reed's Camp — Fine speckled trout in the Tawachiche River, two miles east. Lac aux Sables — Perch in the lake ; speckled trout in the Riviere Propre, north of the railway bridge, two miles down the line. Lake trout iu Lac Brule, twenty-three miles north of the station. Several smaller lakes, full of red trout, perch, etc. Notre Dame des Anges — Fifteen min utes' walk north of railway bridge finds a! splendid point on the Batiscaii River fori speckled trout ; a morning's catch a little time back aggregating sixty-seven lbs. for ¦ seventeen fish Rousseau's Mill — A mile and Va-half from here there is another fine spot on the Bastican for speckled trout. Riviere a Pierre — One and a-half miles from here in the River Blanche more speckled trout. Moose, caribou, deer, (and an oc casional bear) are to be met with all along this section. Trout Lake near Riviere a Pierre T Chapter VIII. Riviere a Pierre— Quebec. kHIS last section of the journey is extremely picturesque, the line passing through a very rugged country before leaving the hills- and descending into the fertile plains that bound Quebec on the north. Prior to the advent of the railroad, these forest solitudes were unbroken, save by occasional hunters and Indians. Now, however, Perthius and Allen's Mill (the two next stations) show distinct signs of set tlement, and St. Raymond is a town of 2,000 inhabi tants, with several mills. This town is charm in g 1 y situ a t e d on the River St. Anne, with lofty tree-clad hills s 11 r - rounding it on all sides, and is the centre of a splendid A trout spot on the Bastican country for hunting. Good guides can be obtained iu the town. A few miles away lies the club house of the Tourilli Fish and Game Club, which has a membership of sixty, composed of prominent Canadians and Americans. A morning's catch of speckled trout His Excellency the Governor-General, and the Earl of Aberdeen are included among the honorary members. Commodore J. U. Gregory is President, and George Van Felson is Secretary — both of Quebec. The club owns twenty-six camps, and operates, in all, one hundred and fifteen lakes and three hundred miles of rivers and streams. In September 1901, twenty- eight caribou and one moose were killed. Passing Bourg Louis, the line follows the shore of Lake Sargent for over two miles before reaching Lake St. Joseph. This lovely sheet of water, which is about twenty miles in circumference, has become one of the most fashionable of Quebec's summer resorts, and no wonder ; for surrounded as it is by hills, its waters full of fish, a comfortable hotel and several small Camps ofthe Tourilli Fish and Game Club cottages on its shores, and, above all, only one hour from Quebec, it cannot indeed fail to attract many to its locality. Fishing is both good and varied, including speckled trout, lake trout, black bass, fresh water shad, etc. Continuing south, 'St. Catherine's brings us to the point to which the Great Northern Railway are building their short line from Garneau. Past St. Gabriel, Jacques Cartier River is crossed, the fall of which is utilized for generating the power to light the City of Quebec. In spite of the distance from the sea, this river is famed for its salmon fishing. Valcartier is an agricultural settlement extending for some miles back from the railway ; after which, eight more miles brings into view Indian Summer Cottages, Lake St. Joseph Lorette, the home of all that now remains of the once powerful Huron tribe. There is an extremely wild and beautiful water-fall to be seen here . Charles- bourg, three or four miles from our journey's end, is the summer resi- d e n c e of many Que bec citizens, and a typical French-Can adian vil lage. Before reaching Quebec, 'the line is carried across the St. Charles River by a fine steel swing bridge (iioo feet long), and the train finally comes to a standstill in the terminus on St. Andrew Street. Here the journey ends, a journey that gives a new scenic route between Montreal, Quebec and Ottawa. The geographical position of Quebec, as gateway of America's chief water route, opens up tremendous possibilities of devel- ment, and, situated at the head of open water all the year round, the "Ancient Capital " has a future that at last she has begun to realize. Imagine a bit of mediaeval France placed on and about a frowning cliff two hundred to three hundred feet above the water ; then invest the whole place with the ro mance of mar tial history, be ginning with the death struggles ofthe Indian nations, and closing with the stir ring dramas that saw the end of French rule in Canada. There you have Quebec, the Queen of American cit- Trout Stream, near Indian Lorette ies, and what will be ere long the chief port of Can ada. There are, probably, more guide books pub lished about this city than any other in the world, and as it has lately Deen treated huni- orouslyby "A Yankee in Que bec," it must now indeed feel im mortalized. A few words, however, may go in here before closing. The first thing that should be seen, when visiting the town for the first time, is the magni- f i c e n t panorama from the Dufferin Terrace or the Cita del. Up the St. Lawrence, down the Gulf, the wood ed Isle of Orleans, the fertile plains to the north flanked by the grim purple range of the Laurentians, the Montmorency Falls, and the Old Town nestling under the precipitous cliffs, combine together to make a sight unsurpassed for variety and beauty the wide world over. Twice a One of Quebec's old streets J 'The old wharves The Great Northern Railway Co.'s Eievator No. 1 Capacity one million bushels. Handles fifteen thousand bushels per hour. Built by A. F. Chapman & Co., of Buffalo. Fireproof, and equipped with hose, fire-pumps etc., etc. Average steamer takes three days to load full cargo of grain, flour, pulp, paper, dressed beef, deals, etc., etc. Accommodation for steamers of twelve thousand tons and over ; dock having depth of water frcm thirty to forty-five feet at all times. Terminals the best on this side of the Atlantic. Three freight sheds in connection, two five hun dred, and one eight hundred feet long. (Elevator No. 2 is somewhat smaller, and is on the other side of the dock.) w eel; the Garrison Band ren ders a splen did program me of music on the Ter race, and the thousands of people (and they have some very prettv girls in Quebec) make a scene, brilliant in the extreme. To watch the sun rise from this point is a sight never to be forgotten. The Great Northern tracks run along St. Andrew Street in the Old St. John's Gate Lower Town, across the old dock, into the huge elevator finished in 1900. The grain coming from the far West is elevated and discharged into the largest of ocean liners. It was here, on May 31st, 1901, that the SS. "Indian" (11,50.) tons,, of the Leyland Line, loaded the largest cargo of grain and general merchandise ever shipped via the St. Lawrence route. The dock accommodation allows the largest boats to load, and this year (1902) three different steamship lines are under contract with the Great Northern Ry. to carry cargoes to Europe. The city was at one time entirely sur rounded by high walls, pierced at intervals ay gateways, some of which have been demolished and others replaced by more modern, and, conse quently, less interesting structures. Perhaps the j>^^ most unique features of pp the town now are the Si\ (piaint old narrow streets The City Walls lying below the Citadel, when might well imagine they were A scene of life that the able to view is the winter Town. Groups of fur- sleighs full of produce, trappers, all doing make a remarkably and the tinkling and the melodi- a n additional people declare is the best it Quebec. of its be- i a u o ba ck. wandering through which, one in Old Dieppe or Amiens. summer visitor will be un- m arket iu the Lower clad farmers with their the It ab it a nt s and a bustling trade, picturesque sight; of the sleigh bells ous patois give charm. Many that winter time to vis- The fact ing cold d r a w- Dry crisp and the sunshinefeeling of tion that counter acts of the temper- tobogg a ning, shoeing, ski-in, lend a novelty to that makes a very vikifcjr *?»£. cling to a winter visit. ~~V\ ' teau Frontenac, erected world, is now so univers- mentioned here would flavor truisms. The illustration \;~ gards the exterior, and the \ Lord Mi it to [Governor-General] and Lady Minio, Tobogganing at Quebec air, bright i v e a ex h i lara- more than the lowness ature ; and the skating, snow- ice-yachting, etc., the day's outing, pleasant memory The magnificent Cha- 011 the finest site in the allyj known that any facts too much of the nature of later speaks for itself _ as re- interior is in perfect harmony ( Courtesy \pf C P. R.) " To Europe* A Leyland Liner leaving Quebec^ loaded with grain brought from the Westvia the Great Northern Railway of Canada -with the out ward appear ance. "Good n> ine needs no bush." Montmo rency Falls (one hun dred feet higher than Niagara ), reached b y electric cars in about twenty min utes , give occasion for an enjoyable day's trip. Follow ing the bank of the river above the Falls for about a mile, a remarkable formation of rock is to be seen, the river having chiselled out a series of steps in the rock cliff, before dashing down through a deep canon to the Falls. After lunching at the charming hotel facing the top of the Falls, the afternoon can be spent in taking train on to the Shrine of St . Anne de Beaupre, the rendezvous for over two hundred and fifty years of The Winter Market Mid-winter ti oiling races A winter view of the Cfiafeau Frontenac {Courtesy of C.P.R.) Montmorency Falls and ascending to the highest point Plains of Abraham, we come to the France her colony, and gave Can ada the lasting benefits of Anglo- Saxon rule. As regards the rest of Quebec, the churches, citadel, drives, his torical spots, water trips, etc., are they not chronicled in the seven hundred and fifty-one guide books (or thereabouts) already written ? This short history of a newly- opened up stretch of country must here conclude, and its object will be fulfilled if it succeeds in attracting people to the many lovely spots now made accessible to all. The inducements to sportsmen are great indeed, the St. Maurice district being, without exception, the rich est in fish and game in the whole of Canada. thousands of pilgrims from all over the world. Founded early in the 1600'sby Breton mariners, in fulfillment of vows made during a great storm, the first little wooden chapel has been from time to time re placed by finer and finer edifices, until now a mag nificent stone building marks the spot. A colos sal statue of St. Anne, of great beauty, is set upon the facade between the two towers, and nearby is the sacred spring, said to have marvellous heal ing powers. Piles of crutches, splints, etc., discarded by their former owners here, give silent evidence of the efficacy of a pilgrimage to this place. Six miles away are the beautiful St. Anne Falls. Returning to Quebec, of land above the town, known as the field ofthe memorable battle, that cost Synopsis of Game Laws of the Province of Quebec. Note. — Owing to the fact that game laws are frequently changed, absolute accuracy is not guaranteed. BIG GAME— HUNTING. OPEN SEASON. Moose and deer, September ist to December 31st, excepting Ottawa and Pontiac Counties. Moose and deer in Ottawa and Pontiac Counties, October ist to November 30th, inclusive. Caribou, September ist to January 31st. Bear, August 20th to June 30th. Natural Steps, Montmorency No more than two moose, three deer, and two caribou may be killed in one season by any one person. Dogs may be used to hunt red deer only between October 20th and November ist. The young of deer, moose or caribou, if only one year old or less, must not be killed. Cow moose must not be killed at any time. OTHER GAME. OPEN SEASON. Mink, otter, marten, pekan, fox (except yellow or red), raccoon, November ist to March 31st, inclusive. Fox (yellow or red) , at all times. Hare, November ist to January 31st, inclusive. Muskrat, April ist to April 30th, inclusive. Beaver are protected until November ist, 1905. GAME BIRDS. OPEN SEASON. Woodcock, snipe, plover, curlew, tatler, sandpiper, September ist to January 31st, inclusive. Birch partridge, swamp partridge, September ist to December 14th, inclusive. White partridge (ptarmigan), November ist to January 31st, inclusive. Widgeon, teal or wild duck of any kind, except sheldrake, loons and gulls, September ist to March 31st, inclusive. Buffle-head ducks, commonly known as pied-ducks or divers, September ist to April 14th, inclusive. Shooting is prohibited between one hour after sunset and one hour after sunrise of woodcock, snipe, partridge, widgeon, teal or wild duck of any kind, and during such hours it is forbidden to keep exposed any lures or decoys. Eggs and nests of all above wild fowl, as well as wild swan, wild goose or Canada goose, must not be disturbed, injured or taken. Rousseau's Mill Sd-6\ M.M. HINSHELWOOD would be glad to interview, or correspond with, any persons wishing to have photographic records made of places, buildings, machinery, etc., etc., in any part of the world. Special attention given to work of a technical nature, where intelligent and artistic treatment of the subject is required. The preparation of Booklets and Catalogues supervised or taken complete charge of. The original photographs of any scenes reproduced in this book (with a few exceptions) can be obtained from the author in all sizes and at all prices. Over two hundred and fifty views of Shawinigan Falls alone to choose from (catalogue on application) making a complete photographic history of Canada's largest water-power development. Visitors to Montreal are in vited to inspect a collection of some foui hundred choice bits of English scenery, including ancient castles, old churches, quaint little villages, and many others ; mostly arranged in art panels ready for framing. 69 St. Famille Street, MONTREAL, CAN. Tel. East .^38 P. O. Ilox 532 Acknowledgments T HE Author is indebted to the fol- photographs : Vivian Burrill, Esq., Shawiuingan Falls. C. S. Saunders, Esq., Shawinigan Falls. Albert Holden, Esq . , Montreal, and for much valuable information from Guy Tombs, Esq., of the G. N. Ry. of Canada, and that courteous and genial American Richard W. Douglas, Secretary, Shawirdgan Water & Power Co., Montreal. The vShawinigan Water and Largest and Most Reliable Power Co. Water Power in Canada OWNERS AND DISTRIBUTORS OF THE ROWER OF SHAWINIGAN FALLS, R.Q. One hundred thousand (100,000) horse-power for sale iff iKI S_§§ ill at Shawinigan Falls, Montreal, and intermediate points. THE SHA W VICE-PRESIDENT : JOHN JOYCE 1 NIG AN WATER & POWER CO. PRESIDENT : J. N. GREENSHIELDS, K.C. TREASURER : _/. E. ALDRED SECRETARY RICHARD W. DOUGLAS DIRECTORS J. E. ALDRED, Montreal, Treasurer RICHARD W. DOUGLAS, Montreal, Secretary J. N. GREENSHIELDS, Montreal, President JOHN _ JOYCE, Boston, Director American Distributing Co. THOS. McDOUG. %LL, Montreal,, Gen. Mgr, Quebec Bank H. H. MELVILL _._E, Boston, Vice-President, Great Northern R.R., etc. D. MURRh 1Y, Ottawa, President Ottawa Transportation Co. W. R. 1 Offices ; I WAl VARREN, New York, President Warren-Burnham Co. Montreal and Shawinigan Falls LACE C. JOHNSON, Chief Engineer Acetylene Gas LIGHT Calcium Carbide The new illuminantAcetylene Gasexceeds al] other forms of artificial illuminationin w Capacity of Works 11,000 tons of pure Carbide per annum o _> 4 Acetylene Generators are approved by oa iy U.S. National Board of Fire Under writers. The flame is odorless and smokeless. Consumes less oxygen than any other gas known. Leaks in pipes can be readily detected by diffusive pungent odor. . . . Convenience Generators are simple in con struction, easily operated, au tomatically controlled, require no attention whatever, aside from charging. Space required is small. May be placed in yard, stable or shed, and connected to all parts of house [with ordinary gas pipe. Each separate house may have its independent lighting system. P Ordinary gas pipes may be used. ™ Low cost of Carbide from which Acetylene is made enables it to be produced for one-half the price of ordinary gas. Cost of one 16-candle-power 1 ,/.,/. , _., , >Kto ¥ cts. per hour. Electric Light ... J Cost of one 16-candle-power Acetylene Gas Light . ^3 to Y% cts. per hour. Quality Perfect combustion produces a regular and steady flame. Diffusive power — softness, purity, clearness, brilliancy — exceeds all other forms of artificial illumination. All colors appear in', their natural shade when seen by this light. Calcium Carbide is obtained by an electro-chemical combination of lime and coke or charcoal in a pow dered form. Acetylene Gas is generated by the action of water on Calcium Carbide FOR PARTICULAR INFORMATION, ADDRESS The Shawinigan Carbide Company, Limited 502 Merchant's Bank Bldg., Montreal The Shawinigan Electric Light Coy Have exclusive control of the sale of Electrical Power to small Manufacturing Establishments at Shawinigan Falls and vicinity. Desirable Factory _ . , , . J Special Inducements to Sites OU the most Manufacturing Companies re- Favorable Terms. quiring from one to twen- Excellent Trans- *Y-1ive Electrical Horse portatiou facilities. Power Rapidly Growing Home Market for Manufacturers Products. Reliable and Cheap Power. Electric light. President : . . Frederick A. Stoughton Manager Royal Aluminum Co. Vice-President . . . Vivian Burrill Lumber Merchant. Treasurer . . . G. S. F. Robitaille Manager, Quebec Bank. Secretary . . . Beaudry Leman Civil Engineer Manager . . . Wallace C. Johnson Chief Engineer, Shawinigan Water and Power Co. Consulting Engineer, Niagara Falls Power & Mfg. Co. FOR PARTICULAR INFORMATION, PLEASE ADDRESS Beaudry Leman, Secy., Shawinigan Falls XJ xj xj xj xj xj xj t? xj u xj xj xj xj xj XJ XJ XJ xj xj u 5^ Quebec Bank 4 Founded 181S Incorporated 1822 HEAD OFFICE : QUEBEC Capital Authorized, - $3,000,000 Capital Paid-up, - - 2,500,000 BOARD OF DIRECTORS : John Breaxey, Esq., President John T. Ross, Esq., Vice-President Gaspard Lemoine, Esq. W. A. Marsh, Esq. Veasey Boswell, Esq. F. BlLLINGSLEY, Esq. EdSON FlTCH, Esq, Thos. McDougall, General Manager u Shawinigan Falls G. S. F. R0BIT AIL,L,E, MANAGER Interest allowed at current rates on deposits in Savings Department . Collections promptly made, and a general banking business transacted BANK MONEY ORDERS ISSUED PAY ABLE AT ALL BANKING POINTS IN CANADA m m m w w w "°i il M I* M il Hi. f£. tr a__.v e§bs ye_i ^sm a_IP j_Hi Ymm ¦aL 3 m THE BANK OF OTTAWA Incorporated 1874 HEAD OFFICE: OTTAWA, CANADA CAPITAL (Fully Raid Up) REST .... $2,000,000 1,765,000 DIRECTORS : Charles Magee, President. Geo. Hay, Vice-President. Hon. Geo. Bryson Alex. Fraser John Mather David Maclaren D. Murphy. GEO. BURN, D. M. FINN IE, L. C. OWEN, General Manager Ottawa Manager Inspecting Officer A General Banking Business Transacted Current Rates of Interest Allowed inSavings Bank Bonds and Debentures SpecialAttention Given to Collections.Remittances made on Day of Maturity at Lowest Rates BOUGHT AND SOLD Accounts of Merchants, Traders, Manufacturers, Corporations and Individuals received on Favorable Terms ... SHAWINIGAN FALLS BRANCH Established 1900 W. W. FORREST, Manager The Original and Leading Liability Company in the World Employers' Liability Assurance Corporation OF LONDON, ENGLAND CAPITAL, - $5,000,000.00 MONTREAL OFFICE, BRITISH EMPIRE BUILDING TORONTO OFFICE, TEMPLE BUILDING LIABILITY AND WORKMEN'S COLLECTIVE POLICIES WRITTEN AT FAIR RATES, ALSO PERSONAL ACCIDENT, SICKNESS AND FIDELITY GUARANTEE INSURANCE GRIFFIN & WOODLAND, Managers for Canada Rates on Application National Trust Co., Limited Trustee, Executor and Administrator. Capital Raid Up, $1,000,000.00 Reserve, $280,000.00 Montreal Board of Directors ; JAMKS CRATHERN, Esq., Director Can. Hank of Commerce H. _. HOLT, Esq., Pr.s. Montreal Light. Heat and Power Co. H. MARKLAND MOLSON, Esq., Director Molsons Bank A. G. ROSS, Manager Office and Safety Deposit Vaults : 153 St. James Street, Montreal GUARANTEED INVESTMENTS The National Trust Company, Limited, is prepared to receive in trust, sums of $1,000 to $ 100,000 and upwards for investment in high class securities, for terms of not less than six months and not exceeding five years, guaranteeing repayment of principal with interest thereon at the rate of four per cent, per annum, payable annually, semi-annually, or quarterly, as agreed. This form of investment is particularly recommended to Exe cutors, Trustees, Solicitors and private Investors, whose primary consideration, in making investments, is to obtain absolute security rather than high rates of interest. THE CANADIAN MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION Head Office : Board of Trade Building, Toronto. Branches at Montreal, Winni peg and Vancouver. General Purpose An organization of 1,000 Canadian manu facturers, that has for its object the building up of the manufacturing industries of Canada, by acting in such matters as require combined effort ou the part of all manufacturers. . Education An earnest attempt is being made to culti vate a national pride in our industries, and to increase the consumption of home-made products in the domestic market. Legislation It deals with all public matters affecting Canadian commercialism. .... Publications It publishes its monthly periodical, Indus trial Canada, which goes to all members, and The Canadian Trade Index, which is distri buted gratis in foreign countries. Trade Enquiries Its Commercial Intelligence bureau is doing much to place Canadian goods on foreign markets. . ... Membership The membership of the Association is open to all bona-fide Canadian manufacturers. The fee is $10 a year. T. A. MORRISON & CO. IMPORTERS AND SALES AGENTS... Building Materials New or Second Hand Contractors' Plant Milton Pressed Bricks (Red and Buff) Building Bricks Enamelled Bricks SandstonesLimestone Lumber Stone Crushers CementsConcrete Mixers Hoisting Engines Derricks RAILWAY AND MINING SUPPLIES 204 St. James St. MONTREAL Wire Rope and Fittings Steam Shovels Steam Dredges Light Rails Locomotives Scrapers Wheelbarrows Pumps Dump Cars Ratchet Jacks Steam Road Rollers Boilers, Engines, Etc. ELECTRICAL APPARATUS OF EVERY KIND Canadian £^eral tt_ECTmc fo^ Head Office TORONTO, ONT. Generators Motors TransformersSwitchboards Lamps Wire Suppliesof all kinds Factories : Toronto Peterboro Montreal BranchOffices : Montreal Halifax OttawaWinnipeg Vancouver VictoriaKossland The Royal BUFFALO Hot Water Heater MADE IN 12 SIZES HIGH OK tOW BASE Patented in iSgo by H. R. IVES & CO. Established 1852 And Manufacturedat their IVoiks Queen St. Montreal mmMm Catalogues on Application The only Canadian exhibit of H<-t Water Boilers awarded Medal and Diploma of the highest merit at World's Colum bian Exposition , Chicago, 1893. It consumes the least coal, gives the great est amount of heat and is the easiest managed, as well as best finished, of any Heater on the market SADLER & HAWORTH Tanners and Manufacturers of .- .- ; .¦ .- .- OAKLEATHERBELTING Dealers in all Kinds of MILL **** SUPPLIES BELTING FOR THE FOLLOWING SUPPLIED BY SADLER & HAWORTH Shawinigan. Water Sr Power Company Belgo=Canadian Pulp and Paper Company Royal JHuminum Works, Shawinigan Falls, P.Q. - 5F * T V T Lace Leather Hydraulic and MechanicalLeather MONTREAL and TORONTO 511 William Street 9 Jordan Street Uhe John McDoug'all Caledonian Iron Works Co. Limited Montreal ENGINESBOILERS MACHINERY HEAVYFORGINGS AND CASTINGS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION Manufacturing and General Agents for 'WORTHINGTON" PUMPS NEW YORK FILTER CO.'S FILTERS (for Water Works and commer cial purposes) "CALDWELL" WATER TUBE BOILERS, "RIFE" HYDRAULIC ENGINES, WATER WHEELS, Etc., Etc. SCALES, VALVES SOLE CANADIAN AGENTS FOR American Spiral Pipe Co. Foster Pressure Regulators Oster Stocks and Dies Merrill Pipe Machines Semi Bronze Packing Dart Patent Unions STEAM SPECIALTIES Full Line Mill Supplies THE R. E. T. PRINGLE CO. 172 DALHOUSIE ST. MONTREAL Limited ELECTRIC MOTORS and GENERATORS *3I» Supplies LAMPS TRANSFORMERS andMETERS Dominion Bridge CoyLimited Montreal Builders of Maskinonge Bridge, Riviere du Loup Bridge, Grand Mere Bridge, St. Flore Bridge, and Pulp Mill Penstock, illustrated in this book Steel Bridges FOR RAILWAYS AND HIGHWAYS STRUCTURAL METAL WORK OF ALL KINDS British American Bank Note CO., Limited Steel Plate Engravers AND . Printers _2_S XJ XJ XJ XJ XJ XJ XJ XJ STOCK CERTIFICATES BONDS, Cable Address : "Mint " OT T A W A STERLING EXCHANGES,BANKDRAFTS,CHEQUES, INSURANCEPOLICIES AND BANK NOTES The Canada Engraving _^ LJthO. CO., Limited Successors to The Burland I,itho. Co., Canada Bank Note Co., and the L,itho. and Printing Branch of the British American Bank Note Co. General Engravers, Lithographers and Typog'raphic Printers OFFICE and WORKS : 9 BLEURY STREET MONTREAL MAPENGRAVING A speciality ARTISTIC COLORPRINTING HIGH- CLASS COMMER CIAL STATIONERY, BONDS, STOCK CERTI FICATES. Etc. ILLUSTRATIONSFOR BOOKS A SPECIALTY The Standard Designers . . Engravers and Electrotypers 30 St. Helen Street****'!'!''® MONTREAL fO?

For Rates and Other Information, Apply to SHAWINIGAN p A I I Q "More picturesque than Niagara ' ONLY FOUR HOURS RUN FROM QUEBEC OR MONTREAL . Magnificent Water Powers, Mill Sites, Timber Limits, and Fishing\Lakes for safe G. SCOTT, General Manager QUEBEC GUY TOMBS, Gen. Fgt. & Pass. Agent QUEBEC D O __)' s