F811 H55 (LC) Treasure Land m A STORY )\ \\ -z. i ncje r-; To J-i n Cr-eo^ a. VOL Published by the ARIZONA ADVANCEMENT COMPANY • Tucson, Arizona 1897 Copyrighted by J. Geo. Hilzinger, Tucson, Arizona, 1897. H55 (ixO Treasures or HEALTH AND.... Treasures oe Wealth. TO THE READER : It is said of an old writer of romance, that he set the church bells ringing merely because he had found a name for one of his heroes, and we felt equally joyous when we found a title for our book. It is one that suits it admirably, for it is full of gems of fact and fancy, and points the way to bounteous stores of treasures of health and wealth that are to be had for the seeking. As the ignorant Turk is said to preserve every scrap of writing that comes in his way, because the name of God may be written upon it, so do thou, O Reader, with this book, for there may be hope of life or a life of hope in it for some one who shall see it. We make no apology for our book : it is the best we can give under the circumstances, and is really worth twice as much to the reader as the latest novel. We claim no more originality than does the artist who transfers his perceptions of natural beauty to his canvas, and while we court no criticism, we do not fear it. We only ask of those, who are always ready to decry home talent, that, THEY BUY A COPY TO CRITICISE. We thank the many friends who have kindly given us their advice and assistance in launching this venture, and in their generous approval we shall find our greatest satisfaction. THE PUBLISHERS. Tucson, Arizona, July, 1897. CONTENTS. CHAPTER. PAGE. I. Where and What is this Treasure Land ? 5 II. The Story of the Sun-Kissed Land 15 III. Life is Pleasant and Here are Treasures of Health 41 IV. Treasures of Wealth 59 V. A Land of Beef as well as Bullion 79 VI. The Farmers' Paradise, or Land and Water 89 VII. The City of Ages 109 VIII. The Line City 141 Where and What is this Treasure Land? Where the ruddy Colorado rush.es onward to the sea : Where the Cila's seething waters sweep along right merrily: Where the canyon's mighty fissure, and the rolling valleys lie ; Where the kisses of the zephyrs make the swaying forests sigh — There lies this Treasure Land beneath, a sunny southern sky! And on her fruitful bosom, ivith tender passions rife, Lie treasures for the seeking, and the elixir of life. Where Some time in the near future an effort will be made to annex the United States to Arizona, and in view of «*n1 this political amalgamation, some general information What Is It ? respecting it will prove interesting. If the reader will refer to the most accessible geog raphy, he will find the following description, or words to the same effect: "Arizona is bounded on the east, north and west by the United States of America, on the south by the Republic of Mexico, above by the serenest of skies and beneath by inexhaustible deposits of mineral, and a soil more fertile than the valley of the Nile." We may not follow the book precisely, as we quote from memory, but being on the spot, with the facts before us, we are probably nearer the truth than the book is. "The surface consists of elevated table-lands broken by lofty mountains and interspersed by valleys, many of which are intersected by irrigating canals, dotted with thriving towns, and bright with the green and gold of orchard, field and vineyard. Some of these valleys are more than 200 miles long and from twenty to forty miles wide, and more fertile than the far-famed valleys watered by the river Nile. One who is not familiar with the character of the rich soil has no conception of the future value of these immense valleys. In a few years the territory will be one vast garden, excepting those portions reserved for grazing purposes." We now ask the reader to refer to the Governor's Report for 1896, and if a copy is not obtainable, to rely upon the faithfulness of our extracts from it. "Arizona has been called 'the sunrlrissed' land and the title is well deserved." 6 Treasure Land. We pause here to call attention to the singular appropriateness of the expression; the word "kissed" suggests a wealth of loving ecstasy, of blending harmonies, of azure skies, of shimmering eyes, balmy breath, the incense of flowers, and all that is sweetest in life. "In no other country are there so many days of sunshine, and this, combined with an air, pure, invigorating and free from infection, not only sustains and prolongs life in the human family, but creates a con dition impossible to excel for the propagation and sustenance of life in the animal and vegetable kingdoms. It is for this reason Arizona pro duces the finest horses, cattle, sheep and hogs to be found in the world. The earliest and finest-flavored fruits (six weeks earlier than any other state or territory in the Union); flowers of exquisite shape, tinged with the most attractive and pleasing dyes of nature, and cereals— wheat, barley, oats and rye— equaled nowhere else in the country. Its resources are without limit, its mountains are the storehouse of precious metals and stones, its forests the greatest in the United States, its plains sustain vast herds of cattle and sheep, while the valleys pro duce grains and fruits that have no equal anywhere. Arizona possesses one of the finest and most valuable forests in the world, known as the Mogollon forest, which covers an area of 10,000 square miles, or 6,400,000 acres, being, with possibly two exceptions, the most extensive body of timber in the known world. Agriculture is rapidly becoming a great industry in this territory, and thousands of acres of land are being reclaimed yearly by the develop ment of water for irrigation purposes. Upon this land the husbandman reaps a splendid return for his intelligence and industry, the land pro ducing almost every product known to the temperate and semi-tropical zones. Stock raising is also being remarkably developed, and thousands of sheep, horses and cattle are yearly fed upon its grazing land. The product from the three most important industries— mining, stock raising and agriculture— gives an aggregate return of $18,385,550.70, which of itself is a panegyric on the wealth of Arizona's resources. The mineral output— gold, silver, copper, lead and limestone— aggre gated $13,978,263.20. The stock industry gave a return of $2,757,287.50. Although owing to the numerous ways by which products are trans ported, it is almost impossible to obtain statistics which would show an accurate estimate of the amount and value of farm produce exported, yet a very conservative estimate will show a total return from this source of not less than $1,650,000. Our counties and cities are well governed. Our cities have a less number of policemen, and our court records show that fewer crimes are committed in this territory than in any state of the Union. Arizona is a most inviting field for capital and skilled labor. Her undeveloped resources are varied and almost without limit. Millions of acres of agricultural land are yet to be reclaimed by the development and proper storage of water. Communication by enlarged and cheaper railroad facilities is urgently demanded between the various points of the territory, that an interchange of home products between the mining and agricultural sections may be made. Many avenues of industrial life offer varied and profitable induce ment for the engagement, of capital and labor, and her agricultural, min eral and grazing wealth should receive that attention from outside in vestors which they deserve. Factories might also be profitably started. There are many fibrous grasses and plants of indigenous growth that could be used in the manu- Where and What is this Treasure Land '/ 7 facture of paper, bagging, rope, etc. In the valley of the Colorado river wild hemp suitable for this purpose is found in almost unlimited quantities. Ironwood, which grows all along the base of our mountains, is very hard when dry, and when polished is of a beautiful appearance. This wood produces a veneering of good quality, which could be made to supply eastern manufacturers, who now obtain their product from other countries. Arizona has within its borders a population of over 100,000, being an increase of 35,000 since 1893. The people are cultured, energetic and enterprising; they have caused the desert to awaken with life; they have invaded the great forests and delved into the mountains that they might all pay tribute to the necessities of Arizona's modern civilization. The moral and social status is excellent. Our educational facilities meet every demand of a cultured and ambitious people. And every condition which we find in this splendid Territory shows every possible requirement for the making of a great and prosperous Commonwealth. The immigration is of the very best class, and Arizona numbers among her population representatives from all portions of our Union, and the very highest types of citizenship of the communities whence they emigrate. They are progressive and enterprising, thoroughly American in character. loyal to their country, and justly proud of the home of their adoption." "Alice in Wonderland" would lose all its charm if the Vrynr author failed to inform us how she reached the fairy realm of Fancy. TO Get There. Arizona is a land of Wonders in a world of Fact, and if the reader thoroughly grasps the situation, he will desire to learn how this favored land can be reached from the United States. Even if it is not convenient for him to visit it himself, he may have some dear friend or relative for whom this sun-kissed land will mean a uew lease of life; or he may be aweary of continual depression in the stock market, the oxidization of gilt-edge securities and 3 per cent, con versions, and sigh for the good old ratios. If he comes to Arizona he can invest his money to good advantage and enjoy perfect health while his profits mature. There is a vital principle in our balmy ozone-laden air that quickens the pulse and makes man feel like a demigod. Here the sluggard feels new energies arise within him, the weak and debilitated lay aside their drugs and spring forth into the glad sunshine like young kids at play. Most of you will want to come here in comfort and with as little loss of time as possible, and while there is a variety of routes, the most direct, and naturally the most desirable way of getting here, is over the Sunset Route of the Southern Pacific Company, or the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe. This popular line of railroad extends through the •pi-g entire territory, east and west, and taps every important center. It traverses the entire length of the great Gila Sunset Route, valley, scene of the most stupendous irrigating schemes on record, and connects at Maricopa with Phoenix, thirty- five miles distant, in the very heart of the famous Salt River valley. It connects at Bowie with a short line tapping the rich agricultural districts of Graham county and the mineral regions of Globe, and at Lordsburg with the road running to the famous copper mines of Clifton. It is the natural, direct route from Eastern cities through New Orleans and El Paso, through St. Louis, Fort Worth and El Paso, through Kansas City, Fort Worth and El Paso, or through Denver and El Paso. From the West the route is direct from San Francisco, through Los Angeles and Yuma. 8 Treasure Land. First-class and tourist through cars run daily, semi-weekly and weekly during the winter season from Chicago, St. Paul, Minneapolis, St. Louis and Kansas City; daily the year round from New Orleans and San Fran cisco, and weekly (second-class) from Washington, D. C, and Cincinnati, through New Orleans. At all times and from whatever direction, the trip is comfortable and exceedingly interesting. This route is the course of the now world-famed Sunset Limited, which has attracted the admiration of the world with its matchless magnificence. The Southern Pacific company now controls the line running from Ben son, Ariz., to Guaymas, in the Mexican state of Sonora, which taps the greatest mineral region in the world and makes the system the most com plete in the country. The This line has also direct connection with all the im- ._.__. portant cities of Arizona. It follows the great ceri- A. 1 . & b. r . trai plateau and, consequently, ensures a dry air, remark- R. R. ably even temperature, delightfully cool nights in the heat of summer, and in winter the rigors of the more northern routes are avoided. It is the great scenic route of the West, touching all points of interest in Colorado, Arizona and California, and is noted for the excellence of its service, special attention being given to the requirements of tourists and immigrants. The Origin When Shakespeare insinuated that there was very ... „ . little in a name, he had no prophetic vision of the time 01 tne IN ame Ol when the commercial world would regard a name as one Arizona. of the most important matters to be considered. Any person who wishes to advertise a new nostrum or sell city lots in the wilderness, hunts up a name that will attract purchasers either by reason of its beauty or inexplicability. Sometimes the name means something, and occasionally it is merelj' a seductive combination of syllables. We do not know how to classify the name "Arizona." It certainly is not of Spanish origin, and our Indian scholars can not agree upon any part of it. It was originally applied to a place a short distance south of the boundary line, and was then "Arizonac." The Hon. Sam. Hughes claims that it is derived from two Indian words, "Ari" and "Zonae" (as nearly as they can be expressed by English letters), meaning "the place of massacre or chastisement," the inference being that the Indians had a tradition to the effect that they were well punished somewhere in that section. There is nothing unreasonable in this explanation, but as some of our readers may not feel willing to accept it on account of being commonplace, we offer them the following romantic legend: The There is an ancient Aztec tradition that the earth is born ~ Rol ri of the sky, which, with certain scientific explanations, ac- aun-rjeiuveu cords with the nebular theory, and shows us that the Maiden. Aztecs could make as shrewd guesses on cosmological matters as some of our own astronomers. There were giants in those days, of course, but they did not find their environment satisfactory and died off, leaving the sky-born world uninhabited. After a while it happened that a celestial virgin, daughter of one of the thirteen great deities, fell into a decline (probably brought on by high living), and the court physician recommended that she be sent to the Santa Cruz valley, where the climate was so excellent that it was able to revive the gods. His advice was followed, and the virgin was the sole inhabitant of the earth until one night, while in a deep sleep, a drop of dew fell upon her, Where and What is this Treasure Land ? 9 and she bore two children, a son and a daughter, from whom have sprung all the dwellers vipon earth. The name of the virgin was Arizunna, and the locality she honored with her earthly residence was near Tucson. The exact spot is not definitely known, but this uncertainty enables all who visit here to make their own choice, which no one can dispute. Naturally enough, the place where the present race of men originated was called after the mother of all, but as generations passed the original pronunciation was lost and the spelling modified. The meaning of "Arizunna," as given in the ancient record from which we have compiled the above, is "the sun-beloved maiden," and this is what the modern "Arizona" should mean, anyway. Arizona Tne ¦fIon- Whitelaw Reid published an interesting article on Arizona in the New York Tribune, of November 22, a Good Place 1896, from which we make the following extracts: tO Live in. "The man who looks for either the beauty or the se ductive excitement of Monte Carlo will not find it. As little will he find the historic remains of the cosmopolitan attractions of Fgypt; nor could he reasonably expect the amusements and luxuries of our own Eastern cities. The people of Arizona are still chiefly busy in the pioneer work of subduing it to the residence and uses of civilized man. But it has two transcontinental lines of railway, with numerous feeders; it has fast mails and rival telegraph lines, and is throbbing with the intense life of the splendid West. The two principal towns in the southern portion chiefly sought for their climatic advantages, are Tucson and Phoenix. Each of them has ten thousand inhabitants or more. They have the electric light, telephones, trolley cars, plenty of hotels, banks, book stores, good schools, churches, an occasional theatrical performance, sometimes a lecture or a circus, often a horse race, and, in the spring, a thoroughly curious and interesting 'fiesta.' For the rest, people must take their amusements with them. Good horses are abundant and cheap, and there are plenty of cow boys — the genuine article — to show what horses can do. "You can not have the luxuries of our New York houses out there, unless you build one; or the variety of our New York markets, unless you charter a refrigerator car. But there are hotels with almost as much frontage as the Waldorf; and, like everything else in the territory excepting the mount ains and the deserts, they are new. There are boarding houses of more kinds than one; and brick cottages of eight or ten rooms can occasionally be rented. Better than any of them, for the man with the energy and pluck to take it, is a tent; and he who knows how to 'camp out' with comfort through September in the Adirondacks can camp out in Arizona through the winter. "As to food, there is plenty, and it is good. From here the markets of Los Angeles, and even of Denver, are largely supplied. Good beef, mutton and poultry are plenty and cheap. Quail, ducks and venison from the vicinity can also be had. Vegetables and fruits are abundant in their season, and sometimes the season is a long one. It is the one country I have lived in where strawberries ripen in the open air ten months in the year. I have had them on my table, fresh picked from the open gardens, at Christmas. "The man who goes to any considerable Arizona town with the ideas of the Southwest derived from novels, or from 'The Arizona Kicker,' will be greatly mystified. He will find as many churches as in towns of corre sponding size in Pennsylvania or Ohio, and probably more school houses. He will find plenty of liquor shops, too, and gambling houses, and dance houses, and yet he will see little disorder unless he hunts late at night for it, and he will find a community of ten thousand people requiring in the daytime only one policeman, and very little occupation for him." 10 Treasure Land. CHAOS_REIGNS.The Town of Chandler, Ohio Turned by a Cyclone Into a VERITABLE MORGUE. The Dead and Dying- Hourly Aug- mented.— The Big River Run ning Wild in Mississippi. United States when they can come safety. These "scare lines" are taken from an Arizona newspaper, but have nothing to do with us except to awaken our sympathies and cause us to thank God that we live in Arizona. We have no cyclones or floods, for while nature has been bounti ful of mercies, she has been nig gard of pestilence. There have been suggestions of earthquakes in the past— the echoes of seismic dis turbances elsewhere — but nothing strong enough to stop a clock or force a resignation from a federal official. And yet some people vol untarily face these perils in the to Arizona and live in peace and Territorial Titles. In no other part of the country are the people so democratic as in Arizona, and yet titles prevail to a greater extent than elsewhere. We have more colonels than you can find in Kentucky, every lawyer is a judge, every teacher a professor, and the rest of the men are generals and honorables. The titles are bestowed in a free and easy western manner. Everybody speaks to his neighbor without the cere mony of an introduction, and no cards are exchanged except when they play poker or some other social game. If the party addressed looks able to bear the dignity, you call him colonel, and the title sticks; if you know him to be a lawyer (and you soon find out), you dub him judge, and there is never any mistake about a professor. The generals are ac counted for otherwise. There are a number of positions with the quali fying title, such as surveyor general, attorney general, general superin tendent, general agent, etc., and the dignifying portion is promptly pre fixed to the surname, and the owner crowned with a military glory he never earned. We are also prolific of governors, for during the lest few administrations it has taken about three to fill out a term. We have heard of half a dozen majors, but strange to say, our people appear to resent this title unless they are obliged to assume it. We recall only three captains; one was a seafaring man from Maine, the other was an ex- officer of the army, and the third died before we could investigate him. If there are others we never met them. Every man who ever ran for office is entitled to be called honorable— why, we know not — and it is a safe address at all times. An eastern visitor induced a party of friends to unite in The Wonders an exPedrtion to tne southwest of Tucson for the pur pose of discovering a desert, and after traveling over Of the Desert. 100 miles they returned with brown cheeks and in ordinate appetites. The leader of the party was kind enough to write his impressions for us as follows, and we trust that the publication of the facts will deter others from wasting their time and spoiling their complexions in the same vain pursuit: "Desert? There is no such thing in Arizona! It has disappeared with the ogres, hydra-headed monsters and other bogies that stunted our child hood growth. There may be lost mines, but there are no deserts. "Far away in every direction stretch grassy plains, rising and falling Where and What is this Treasure Land '' 11 like vast swells of a lazy sea, and encircled by purple hills above which climb the azure peaks of mountains beyond them. Different shades of verdure greet the eye on every side; the six-weeks grass of a bright green, speckled with bright-hued flowers, is varied with the brown and gold of the galleta and gramma. We seem to be driving through endless meadow and vineyard, while the cawing crow flies overhead, little birds twitter among low-bending twigs and the grazing cattle wander hither and thither. The sun creeps cheerily up the eastern sky, the air is soft, yet bracing as an early bath, and the dyspeptic Yankees of our party feel that existence is a delightful fact. And at night, what a good rest we had! Under the bright canopy of a cloudless sky, with moonlight softening the scene, a crispiness in the air that quickened every atom of blood and built anew all the lung cells that life's work, exposures and dangers had demolished or placed on the retired list! "Only one of the sleepers awoke before daylight; he was so green that a jack rabbit mistook his ear for some new food plant. Morning brought new life and new marvels. Great lakes, promontories, peaks, suspension bridges and cities with great buildings moved majestically in a marvelous procession across the orient for an hour or more, emphasizing the grandest pageant that was ever attempted. It was the desert mirage, and one such spectacular exhibition is alone worth the expense and trouble of a journey to Arizona. If this is life on the desert, let me live it alway!" Pima county was the first portion of Arizona settled by Pima CountV Europeans, and is one of the oldest political divisions of . J the territory, having been organized by the first legis- the First. lature in 1864. Its original boundaries took in the whole of Cochise county and portions of Pinal and Graham. It is still of fair size, being about 180 miles in length from east to west, with a width of eighty miles at its eastern end, which is maintained for seventy miles, when it gradually decreases to twenty miles on the western end. It derives its name from the Indian tribe known as Pimas, who were found within its borders by the Spaniards, and formed part of what was known to them at first as Pimeria and later as Papagueria. The western portion of the county, bordering the line of the Mexican state of Sonora, is a series of wide, rolling plains, with detached mountains and isolated peaks. These mountains are rocky and rugged, the plains covered with grass and shrubs and in some places with mesquite and stunted native timber. Surface water is generally scarce, and did not every mountain, peak and butte contain rich deposits of the precious metals, the natural attractions would be few. South of Tucson the county is made up of grassy plains, rolling hills and lofty mountains. East, to the line of Cochise, it is of similar char acter, while to the north the horizon is filled with the massive chain of the Santa Catalinas. South and east the county is crossed by the Santa Rita, Patagonia, Whetstone and Atascoso ranges, and is one of the most delightful portions of Arizona. The mountains are clothed with verdure, and the valleys and glens afford the finest grazing to be found in the West. Water is seldom wanting, and the valleys of the Sta. Cruz, Sonoita, Babacomari, Sopori and Arivaca are not exceeded for beauty and fer tility. In the Santa Rita, Santa Catalina and Patagonia mountains are many lovely vales, and the climate is simply perfect, even during the hottest days of summer. The Santa Cruz river flows through the county from its source in the Patagonia range to the boundary of Maricopa; the Sonoita is one of if 12 Treasure Land. tributaries in the south and carries quite a volume of water. The Rillito, which receives the waters of the Pantano Cienega, enters the Santa Cruz just below Tucson. The Aiivaca and Sopori creeks are ever-running streams, and water can be obtained at moderate depths all over the east ern part of the county. Thirty per cent, of the land of Pima county can be successfully, irri gated and reclaimed by a system of ditches, sub-drainage pipes and res ervoirs for water storage at a reasonable outlay,- and hundreds of acres thus added to the cultivable area, at an average cost of reclamation of $6 per acre. Wheat, barley, oats, alfalfa, hay, corn, sorghum, tobacco, potatoes, peas, beans, beets, all kinds of vegetables, fruit, etc., can be produced on these lands. The yield of wheat, barley and oats will be from thirty-five to forty bushels per acre; corn, from forty to sixty bushels; hay, three tons, and alfalfa, five to seven tons. There are 130 miles of irrigation ditches in the county, largely sit uated in the Santa Cruz, Sonoita and Rillito valleys. The aggregate cost of building same is estimated at $150,000. A new ditch, seven miles in length, was recently taken from the Santa Cruz, north of the town of Tucson, and about 1,500 additional acres put under cultivation. The ir rigation capacity of all the canals in the county is estimated at 12,000 acres. The population is estimated at 20,000, or one-fifth of the total popula tion of the territory, and at least one-tenth of these are actively engaged in mining. The average rainfall is about thirteen inches, the heaviest precipita tion occurring generally in the months of July and November. There are about 1,000.000 acres of surveyed land in the county, with filings on only 86,000. At a conservative estimate there are about 175 mines being operated in Pima county. The principal ones produce gold, silver, copper, lead and iron ores. There are also quarries of marble, building stone and lime stone. Gold and silver bullion and placer gold were extracted from mines in Pima county aggregating, probably, $500,000. The base bullion produced of gold, silver, copper and lead ore, and shipped by railroad to eastern smelters and refiners, exceeds 1,500 tons, and in ingot copper and matte, about 500 tons. The Tucson Mining and Smelting Company (a small copper plant operated by foreign capital near Tucson) received for the fiscal year ended June 30, .1896, 2,200,000 pounds of ore and shipped 262,751 pounds of copper bullion and 228,548 pounds of matte. The Empire Mining and Smelting Company has lately erected a 100- ton lead-silver smelter near Crittenden, which will be enlarged at an early date. The principal towns are Tucson, Nogales, Arivaca, Oro Blanco, Crit tenden and Harshaw. The assessed value of all property in the county is $4,000,000, but this can not be taken to represent more thau 40 per cent, of the true value. The erroneous idea of under-valuation of property and comparatively high rate of taxation prevails here, as in most other new countries. The highest county and territorial tax rate is $3.50 per $100, being a trifle over $2 on a just valuation. Two main lines of railroad cross the county, the Southern Pacific and Sonora road, which latter runs from Benson to the seaport of Guaymas, on the Gulf of California. These have other connections, which, while they do not properly belong to a description of Pima county, feed its commerce. Where and What is this Treasure Land? 13 Tarantulas Some of our very credulous visitors f ass the first few „_ j weeks of their residence here in a state of feverish ex- citement that seriously interferes with the complete en- RattlesnakeS. joyment of our wonderful climate. They mistake the cheerful chirp of the cricket for the whirr of rattles, and, under the influence of an excited imagination, a common, every-day New England cockroach becomes anything from a pterodactyl to a dinosaurus. They miss the familiar domestic pests which frequently invade the boudoirs of the pleasant East; they find -none of the nimble fleas that wor ried them in California, and the voice of the mosquito is hardly ever heard in the land. Curiosity succeeds dread, and they crave for a glimpse of the deadly monsters of the arid regions, and want to be introduced to the fiery perils of the trackless deserts. They are willing to endure the lack of domestic vermin and mosquitoes, but can not return East without interviewing a few tarantulas and rattlesnakes. Then we show them some specimens of our choicest varieties (which we keep in alcohol for this purpose), and they wearily exclaim: "We have bigger than these at home." It is a sad blow to our local pride to have to face this fact, and if the pressure continues we shall be compelled to import some vermin from the East in order to maintain our reputation and satisfy the morbid cravings of health-seekers. Still, we can not be the first in everything! Speaking soberly, a man may live in Arizona a year or more and see nothing more venomous than a cockroach or a cricket, unless he invades the saloons. If he goes out hunting in the foothills of the Sierras or tra verses the grassy mesas, he may encounter a tarantula or a rattlesnake, but they will avoid him if they can, as they are not of social dispositions and prefer to meditate in solitude. Should he see any, he will compare them, with respect to size and beauty, with those he has met elsewhere, and wonder how we achieved our reputation. He will also learn that they have less venom, or a poorer quality, than those found in moist, hot regions, such as South Carolina and Florida, and their bite is only fatal when an excess of antidote is imbibed. We hate to disappoint our friends, but, really, we are compelled to puncture the prevailing idea that Southern Arizona is a desert inhabited by rattlesnakes and tarantulas. The only deserts we can refer the traveler to are in Mexico, two hundred miles away. We have not personally in spected them, and therefore can not state positively how much vivid imag ination or other stimulants will be required to produce the best results. The following story is introduced solely to mitigate the effect of our iconoclastic remarks and has no moral worth mentioning. The narrators were introduced to us as "Honest Jim of Pantano and A Friend." We pre sume that it was A Friend's particular business to verify Jim's affidavits and make it unnecessary for him to require change for a quarter. The Tarantula "The finest taranchula I ever seen was at Lyin' gulch, in the Santa Ritas. I was samplin' some likely croppin's and the when I heard a spat and a whirr like as if a mountain Mountain Lion. 'J"'n was arolm'> so I clum up a boulder an' waited. It was a lyin sure enough — about the size of a three- year-old steer — an' he squatted just below, glarin' at me as if I'd jumped his claim. Very soon he rose up an' swung his tail backwards an' for wards, an' then back again, till it was movin' easy, an' come for me. I stuck my toes into the rock an' hung head down, till the lyin had made his jump, an' then resoomed my seat an' offered to bet him the drinks he couldn't do it again. This made him swish his tail swisher than ever, an' it struck again' a rock an' hurt itself, which made him so bilin' mad that he made another play for me just as I got down again. 14 Treasure Land. This racket kep' repeatin' so long that my toes were about worn out diggin' into the boulder, but just as I was about givin' up, a taranchula, about a foot high, came out to sun himself and intervoo the neighbors, an' the lyin's tail caught him right in the jaw before he could put up his hands, so to speak. The taranchula was madder than two wet hens an' couldn't speak for cussin', but he clings on to that tail like a pipe-wrench. Now, the lyin had been jumpin' backwards an' forwards an' back again so much that he couldn't- stop himself; so he just kept sailin' through the air while the taranchula bit and bit till the pizen begins to work an' the lyin to swell. I got off my perch and rolled over on the groun', laffin' so hard that I couldn't see; an' the lyin kept swellin' and swellin' till he swoll so much that he floated off in the air like a balloon, clear out of sight, with the taranchula still hanging on to his tail." "That yarn wouldn't be much with the lyin left out," remarked A Friend, in a deep tone of voice; "but it's true as gospel, for I finally landed that tarantla myself. I was out huntin' that same day an' saw what I took to be a large eagle flyin' above me. It was so far off I could hardly see it, but I took a shot for luck. It fell about a mile off, an' when I reached the object it was a tarantla as big as a Californy mule. Gen tlemen, I reckon that was Jim's tarantla, an' he'd swallered the lyin to get back his pizen, so's to be able to continner business at the old stand." The Story oe the Sun- Kissed Land. Ruins op Casa Grande. What is the ancient story of the land 9 Can crumbling tower and mouldering ruin tell — Wide furrowed plains and miles of broad canal — The hill forts and the niches in the cliffs ? Lost is the ancient story, and we give The modern history of men who reared New cities, and re-plowed the weedy fields, And new aligned the old canals. 16 Treasure Land. THE riRST EXPLORERS. The reader having now located Ari zona with reasonable certainty, will be curious to learn something of its early history, and in the following pages we shall endeavor to give him some in formation on the subject. Setting aside as unprofitable all speculations respecting the ancient in habitants, the history begins from the advent of Europeans, and is full of ro mance. In June, 1527, Panfilo de Narvaez set sail from Spain with a fleet of five ships and a force of (iOO men, and, after several disasters, was driven by a storm to the western coast of Florida. He landed with 300 men and forty horses and proceeded inland, while the fleet followed the coast, the forces expecting to reunite thereafter. They never met, however, for after many perilous adventures only four of the land expedition survived, and these crossed the continent, passing- through the southeastern corner of Arizona, and finally reaching the Span ish camps on the coast of the Gulf of California. One of this band of bold adventurers was a negro slave, Estevanico, and to him belongs the honor of being one of the earliest explorers of the southern portion of the present United States. His subsequent history proves him to have been a man of high intelligence and enterprise, and as fearless and ambitious as any of the cavaliers who carried the banner of Spain through the wilderness of the New World. He was an honor to his race, and the colored citizens of this republic should perpetuate his memory, and we suggest a monument in Central park, New York. The negro, Estevanico, afterwards became the property of the Viceroy of Mexico, and, no doubt, influenced his master to form projects for the further exploration of the great Northwest. In 1538 a party, accompanied by Father Juan Olmedo, made an expedi tion to the north and returned with reports of the wonderful wealth and civilization of the inhabitants, but was unable to reach the famous seven cities of Cibola, the people of which were said to be as civilized and opu lent as the Aztecs. The first organized effort was made by Father Marcos de Niza, chief of the Franciscans at Culiacan, which place he left on March 7, 1539, being accompanied by the negro, Estevanico, and a number of the natives. The party proceeded northward through the present Mexican state of Ronora and halted at Baeapa, in the Santa Cruz valley, near the present site of Tucson. Baeapa, or, as it was afterwards called, Bac, was a settle ment of considerable size and well provided with provisions. Here the negro was sent ahead to explore the way, and, sending back favorable re ports, Father Niza proceeded onward, following the Santa Cruz to the In dian settlements on the Gila river. Meanwhile the adventurous negro pushed onward, ambitious to be the first to penetrate the secrets of the far-famed cities of Cibola, designing. perhaps, to emulate the achievements of Cortez. At every important land mark he erected wooden crosses to point the way for those who followed, or he sent back messengers with crosses in their hands to cheer the Father and his weary companions. The Story of ihe Sun-Kissed Land. 17 At last he reached the goal of his hopes, but the Cibolans expected no god of his color, and killed him and several of his followers. The remaining members of the pioneer party hurried back to Father Niza to warn "him of the danger ahead and recount the fate of their com panions; but the fearless Franciscan calmed their troubled minds and, re lying on the power of the cross, hurried forward and soon obtained a glimpse of one of the great cities, which appeared to him to be richer and more populous than Mexico. According to the custom of those days, he set up a cross and solemnly took possession of the country for the crown of Spain, and then took the shortest route home before the new subjects could realize what had hap pened them. According to his sworn statement, duly made to the proper authorities, it was a marvelous country, and he regretted that he did not feel able to paint the wonders he had seen in colors sufficiently glowing. Cortez, and some other skeptical or envious persons, were of the opinion that Father Niza seriously fractured the truth for political purposes, but the country he traversed is in evidence to sustain his veracity, and if the cities of Cibola did not eventually come up to his expectations, he should not be blamed. According to some accounts, the murder of Estevanico was provoked by his flirtations with some of the leading ladies of Cibola, which aroused the jealous ire of their lords; but this is probably a fiction, invented by envious cavaliers to mar the luster of his fame. Had he been a white man, it would never have been mentioned. Even if it be true, the fact does not detract from his reputation as a daring explorer, and he only mildly emu lated the gallant conquerors of Mexico. Father Niza's efforts in the exploration line were evidently appreciated by the church, for he was shortly afterwards appointed Provincial of the Franciscans. Probably he thought solely of the souls to be saved, and knowing that the cavaliers could only be influenced to conquer by induce ments of wealth, inserted some prize packages in his narrative. Let this be as it may, his account was finally conceded to be as reliable as others of the kind, and in 1540 an expedition was sent out, under Coronado, to verify his affidavits. The party consisted of 300 Spaniards and 800 Indians, Niza accompany ing Coronado with an advance guard, and the main body following at some distance. Coronado generally followed the route taken by Niza, passing up the Santa Cruz valley to Bac, which he also found populous and thriving, and reaching the Casa Grande on the Gila, which he described as "a great red house in ruins." The explorers met with opposition from the Cibolans, but finally sub dued the country, and were disappointed when they found nothing but agricultural settlements, and none of the opulence they had looked for. Father Niza, however, was quite satisfied. The country had been sub jected to Spanish dominion, and the church could now do the rest. Mis sionaries were placed along the route to inaugurate the good work, and re mained at their stations after Coronado's army practically abandoned the country, in 1542. They founded several settlements in the Santa Cruz val ley, and continued with the natives even when their connection with the government in Mexico was severed. Among others, the settlement in the vicinity of Tucson was permanently established under the name of Bac or Baeapa; and when, after several generations had passed, a new crusade began, the missionaries of the seventeenth century found the Indians at Bac fully prepared for the work, and churches arose, as if by magic, all along the valley. It is true that until the latter half of the seventeenth century there is little record of the doings of the Spaniards in Arizona, and for this reason J 8 Treasure Land. it has been assumed that nothing was done. The absence of records ac cessible to the historian is to be regretted, but the fact does not prove that there was nothing to record. We know that for certain periods, during the first half of the present century, the records are so insignificant that it might be argued that the country was abandoned; but it was not, for men who were alive within the last few years knew to the contrary. The Picacho de Metates, west of Tucson; the turquoise mines in the Sil ver Belle district and elsewhere, were known to the Aztecs, as also its min eral wealth. The ruins of the settlements of the ancient miners are still in evidence; the rock carvings near them are of an entirely different char acter from those found in other parts of Arizona, being for the most part astronomical symbols. The Spaniards on the frontier had no incentive to furnish information to the official cormorants of Mexico, who confiscated every revealed treas ure, and hence, when the church or laity stumbled on a good thing, they kept their own counsel. There is, too, every reason to believe that it was no more unusual then than it has been since, for the common Spaniard, the rank and file, to amalgamate with the Indians, especially with such peace ful tribes as those inhabiting the fertile valleys of Southern Arizona. The antagonism between the members of the Franciscan and Jesuit orders may account for the absence of some of the records required to com plete the history of settlement, and the acts of hostile Indians must also be considered. When the Jesuits arrived they were not so well acquainted with the conditions as those who preceded them, and their mining operations were soon, apparently, paralyzed by the extravagant claims of the king of Spain, whose "royal patrimony" was held to cover all mineral treasures- Silver mining was, consequently, abandoned, this metal being too bulky to smuggle through the lines of hungry officials; but gold was found to be just as valuable and more easily concealed. The church and laity, therefore, were compelled to adopt a gold standard, and exploited this metal wherever it could be found. The writer has visited several ancient mines, the ore of which carried both metals, one or other predominating, and noted with some curiosity that it had been carefully separated, the portions richest in silver being left on the dump; and when this metal predominated across the whole vein, work was invariably abandoned. The appearance on the scene of Father Ensebius Kuhn, or Kino, as he is usually called, revived missionary interest in Arizona. Kino was born in the Austrian province of Tyrol, and was educated partly at the University of Ingoldstadt, in Bavaria. After a serious illness he adopted the name of Francisco, and vowed to devote his life to the conversion of American heathen. He was a mathematician and astronomer, and remarkably en dowed with virtue and intelligence. He probably joined the Jesuit order in California, about 1684. He reached the field of his future labors in 16S7, and five years later visited the Santa Cruz valley, passing by the Santa Rita mountains ami through the settlements of Tubac and Tucson. The narrative of his jour ney speaks of settlements already founded, although there was no record at the time showing the previous presence of missionaries in the country! — a most remarkable confirmation of our views. In 1094 Fathers Kino and Mange made a tour of inspection, regular missions having been established during the previous three or four years at Guevavi, San Cayetano, Tumacacori and San Xavier del Bac. Father Kino gave glowing reports of the condition of the country as a field for missionary work, but failed to secure any hearty cooperation. His zeal never relaxed, however, and his labors continued unremittingly until he died, in 1711. The Story of the Sun-Kissed Land. 19 The These ruins, of which we give an illustration on tho « _ . title page, are situate in the Casa Grande valley, about tase branae seventy-five miles northwest of Tucson, and are re- RuinS. garded as the most interesting remains of the prehistoric age found on this continent. The front of the main building measures sixty feet and forty-three feet wide. The first story is thirteen feet high; the second, nine feet; third and fourth, eight feet. The greater part of the upper story has dis appeared. The walls are between four and five feet thick and the material of which they are constructed is almost indestructible concrete, made of fine gravel, sand and cement, closely resembling granotitsic now used in Washington. The walls, both inside and outside, are plastered with ce ment, which clings to them with wonderful tenacity, on the inside being smooth and glossy, as the best hard-finished interiors of the present day. The lower story is nearly filled up with crumbling debris and drifting sand of the plains. The holes in which the ceiling timbers were placed are plainly visible, but every particle has been carried away by relic hunters, and the disintegration of the walls has been so rapid of late years that if measures are not immediately taken to strengthen them, the whole structure will fall into a shapeless ruin. For miles around the mysterious Casa Grande, mounds, now hardly distinguishable from the desert sands, bear indisputable evidence of hav ing been at some remote period, adobe structures. The most ancient traditions of the Pimas and Papagos, who yet live here where their fathers lived for centuries, alluded to them as "ruins." The earliest historic record we have of the Casa Grande was given by the famous Spanish cavalier and explorer, Cabeza de Vaca, who discovered it during his journey across the continent about 1537. A few years later, the famous explorer, Don Francisco de Coronado, who led an expedition into New Mexico, states that the Pima. Indians had no knowledge of the origin or history of the town which they believed had existed there. It had always been ruins to them and to their ancestors. Kino and Mange, who visited there in 1694, also gave an account of twelve other ruins in the vicinity. Father Pedro Faut, in 1777, found them in much the same condition. He describes the main building as an oblong square, facing the cardinal points of the compass, the exterior wall extending from north to south 430 feet, and from east to west 320 feet. The theory has been advanced that the Aztecs, whose Ancient civilization culminated in the Valley of Mexico, passed through Arizona, leaving behind them, at different points, Fortifications. members of their tribes whose faith was weak or who were unfitted otherwise to be factors in the evolution of a great nation. This theory accounts for the records of ancient civiliza tion found on all our hills and in all our valleys. Southern Arizona was at one time densely populated; this must have been before the segregation of the higher types who afterwards founded the Aztec empire overthrown by the Spaniards. After the lapse of years, perhaps centuries, other seg regations took place, and the Zuni and Moqui civilizations were founded. These were the more advanced spirits, and those left behind may be re garded as the refuse of the ancient race, who lacked alike energy to move and the courage to maintain themselves against the incursions of a savage race, which had for a long time threatened them with annihila tion. Cultivation of the soil was neglected, the wonderful storage reser voirs and extensive canals left them as a heritage were filled by the winds with the dust of unregarded fields, and the huge temples, gran aries and homes of their race were abandoned to the Apache marauder. The struggle for existence and the assaults of their enemies depleted their 20 Treasure Land. ranks and caused them to lose the memory of the vanished civilization They had shared. New wants and conditions modified their forms and features and even changed their language, so that their descent can only be traced circumstantially. During this period of disintegration, every hill became a fort and every peak a watch-tower; the first for defense, and the second in order to give the trembling laborers in the fields timely warning of the approach of enemies. Hence nearly every hilltop in Southern Arizona is found to be walled with circles of stone, sometimes from base to summit, a precaution that shows the acuteness of the struggle for existence. On the Saddle mount ain, west of Tucson, there are seven circles of fortification and the ruins of rough habitations on the summit. Sentinel peak was used as a watch- tower, and fires were built to give warning of danger. In the Sierrita mountains we find on the crest of Santo Domingo, not only rough fortifica tions, but a line of stone buildings, apparently designed to shelter the fam ilies of the tribesmen. These were probably stored with water and provis ions at convenient seasons, and became a place of common refuge during times of trouble. Less than a mile from the center of Tucson, on the west Indian si(^e of tne valley» reached by a shady lane through . fields, gardens and orchards, is a dark colored hill cov- Rock Carving. ered with rocks thrown up in Titanic heaps, called the Picacho de Metates. Here the ancient people found a peculiar lava stone, sonorous as iron and as durable as steel, from which they manufactured the m.etates and manos used in grinding corn. These were shipped to all parts of the country, and there is every rea son to suppose that the Aztecs drew their supply largely from this point. That the manufacture of these necessary implements was carried on extensively at one time is proven by the abundance of chips, and the curi ous searcher will frequently find half finished stones, abandoned because of defective material. The surface of the rock is, apparently, calcined to a deep iron purple, but beneath the crust the material is a bluish grey color. All over the hill there are rocks carved with grotesque figures cut by the ancient workers, some of' them so faint with age as to be barely decipherable. The writer copied a number of these "paintings," as they are errone ously called, and believing that they were intended to convey some mean ing, spent a considerable time in seeking their interpretation. The result of his labors is given in this section, and, if he is correct in his readings, they show a depth of thought and power of observation far beyond what we might have expected of the primitive people who made theni. This might be mistaken for an individual making antics before a mirror, or a progenitor of the modern pugilist overcoming the resistance of a bag of wind. The object to the left is neither a mirror nor a wind-bag ; it is a sworn statement intended to defeat the election of some ambitious chief, and the party to the right is evidently breaking his back in an effort to make a truthful affidavit. The modern Arizonian is noted for the number and strength of his affidavits under similar circumstances, and it is strange to find that this method of lying has the seal of antiquity, and is, we might say, native to the soil. The Story of the Snn-Kisssd Land. 21 Zbe ©l& fUMssions. Cliff dwellings and other evidences of prehistoric races that exist in Arizona invoke idle speculation, but the desolate and crumbling temples built by the early fathers awaken a lively sympathy and admiration. The devotion and enterprise of these spiritual pioneers, who arrived with the cross and invaded the homes of the savages to extend the do minion of the church, command our respect, and inspire us, not with spec ulative wonder, but with real interest. They lived almost within the memory of man, and the fruit of their industry and zeal has outlived the devastation of savagery and time. Their temples were raised to an ever-living God; the rites they practiced in the Old Missions : - 1. Ruins of San Agustin, near Tucson, 2. San Xavier, near Tucson. 3. Ruins of Tumacacori. I. Altar of San Xayier. wilderness still move the faithful heart, and the holy doctrines they taught continue to smooth the path of life and lay the foundations for eternity! The mission ruins give their own history, as the upheaved strata of the earth record the geological changes worked by Time. The crumbling walls, the tottering towers, and facades rudely sculp tured, are monuments to the industry of the vanished devotees; the sacred cross, emblem of the faith and hope they worked and lived for, still crowns the white basilica, and mutely claims the adoration of the passing vaquero; the ill-defined niches along the caving walls once served as sainted shrines, before which the half-tamed savages were taught to bow the knee; along 22 Treasure Land. the acequia's broken banks, trees foreign to the clime bend low and whisper to the passing breeze their memories of the lives of those who nurtured them. Behind the pile of crumbling walls and towers rest the mortal re mains of those that built, adored or served— the builders, and that which they built, are side by side in death and ruin! The soul-inspired clay is resolved into its elements, and the thing of beauty that it made is press ing back to the earth that it sprung from at the command of mind! But the work was not all in vain, for nothing is in vain. The preacher spoke falsely when he said "All is vanity," for vanity is only in the minds of men. Acts live for ever and build Time and Eternity. The Fathers per formed their allotted work, and that work still lives, though a century has passed since the mission bells echoed up the canons to the hills, bidding the laborer cease his toil and water the germ of an immortal hope! "Father Kino reached Sonora in 1867, and by 1690 had es- The First tablished four missions. The residents of the Santa Cruz valley were so urgent Missions. in their demands for missionary service, and the field was so inviting, that the mission of Guevavi, at the head waters of the Santa Cruz river, was founded, shortly followed by one at Tumacacori, near Tubac, and then another at San Xavier, near Tucson. The first church built at San Xavier was a small and modest adobe build ing, hastily erected to meet the wants of the new mission. The fragments of records found in the church give an idea of the population that lived in the vicinity, by the number of baptisms which were yearly administered from 1720 to 1767. This population must have been considerable. The rec ords show that twenty-two Jesuit missionaries successively administered at San Xavier between the dates mentioned, the last of which was that of their expulsion by the Spanish government. This mission was one of the most flourishing until 1751, when the In dians revolted, being instigated by an Indian called Luis, from Saric, who pretended to be a wizard of marvelous power. The missions that escaped complete ruin during the revolt, which lasted four years, were hardly started again when the Jesuits were expelled. The Franciscan, Father Garcez, found San Xavier in a pitiable condition, but by his great frugality and apostolic virtues, he gained the love and confidence of his flock. In 1768 the church of San Agustin del Tucson was founded. The church itself has entirely disappeared, but a remnant of the residence of the priests, the workshops and granaries, still remains, a mouldering pile of brown ruins on the edge of the river, ten minutes' walk from Tucson. This was sometimes called the Church of the Holy Infant. The date of its foundation was lately discovered in on^ of the records in the government archives at Hermosillo, Mexico. The erection of the present San Xavier church was begun in 1783 and finished in 1797, the date appearing on one of the doors of the structure. This is further confirmed by the testimony of a few old people who as sisted at the dedication. The brothers Jaunas had charge of the construction, as we are in formed, and they afterwards superintended the erection of similar struc tures at Tumacacori and Caborca; but the fathers themselves, as well as the lay brothers, must have contributed somewhat to the adornment of the edifice. No mention, however, is made of any of their names on the records extant." This illustrates a domestic tragedy and assures us that the corporal punishment of youth was early receguized as an educational factor. The Story of the Sun-Kissed Land. 23 The youth was evidently seized in the act of commission and kicks and struggles in his effort to avoid chastisement. The abnormal develop ment of the head expresses the openness of feature observed in modern children in like circumstances, and was the only method by which the rock- defacing artist could depict the yells! Polygamy prevailed at the period, and the adult figures represent two of the child's mothers. The instrument of torture carried by the one to the right is a common switch torn from a convenient bush, while the other displays an instrument resembling a boot-jack. It is, however, a contrivance used by the Indians on their hunting expeditions, the prey being caught alive and then choked to death between the forks, as needed. Description Of "The site is well chosen, with a broad sweep of plain and tu M" f vaHey> hemmed in by purple mountains. The church, as tne Mission 01 can De seen Dy its arches, surpassing the semicircle, and San Xavier. the ornamental work in low relief which covers the flat surfaces of some parts of its walls, belongs to the Moor ish style. Over the ruins of a wall of brick and stone we enter the atrium, an en closure 06x33 feet, which separates the church from the plaza and was used as a place for meetings relating to matters not directly connected with religion. On the frontispiece, which shows the width of the church with its two towers, is placed, in low relief, the coat-of-arms of the order of St. Francis of Assisi. It consists of an escutcheon, with a white ground filled in with a twisted cord, and a cross on which are nailed one arm of our Savior and one of St. Francis, representing the union of the disciple with the Divine Master in charity and the love of suffering. The arm of our Lord is bare, while that of St. Francis is covered. On the right side of the escutcheon is the monogram of Jesus, the Savior of men, and that of the Blessed Virgin Mary on the left. The frontispiece was surmounted by a life-size statue of St. Francis, which is now nearly demolished by the hand of time. The church, which is built of stone and brick, is 105x27 feet inside the walls. Its form is that of a cross, the transept forming on each side of the nave a chapel of twenty-one feet square. The church has only one nave, which is divided into six portions, marked by as many arches, each one resting on two pillars, set against the walls. Above the transept is a cupola of about fifty feet in elevation, the remainder of the vaults in the church being only about thirty feet high. Going from the front door to the main altar, there is on the right hand side wall a fresco representing the coming of the Holy Ghost upon the disciples. Opposite to it is the picture, also in fresco, of the Last Supper. Both paintings measure about 9x5 feet. In the first chapel to the right hand of the two altars, one facing the nave with the image of our "Lady of Sorrows," standing at the foot of a large cross, which is deeply engraved in the wall, and tha other one with the image of the Immaculate Conception. In the same chapel are two frescoes representing Our Lady of the Rosary and the hidden life of our Savior. The opposite chapel is also adorned with two altars. One of them is dedicated to the Passion of our Lord, and the other to St. Joseph. There are also two paintings, the subjects of which are Our Lady of the Pillar and The Presentation' of Our Lord in the Temple. The main altar, which stands at the head of the church, facing the nave, is dedicated to St. Francis Xavier, the patron saint the Jesuits had chosen for the first church they had established in the mission. Above the image of St. Francis Xavier is that of the Holy Virgin; between the statues of St. 24 Treasure Land. Peter and St. Paul, and at the summit of the altar piece, the bust of God, the Creator. The pictures which are seen on the walls near this altar are: On the right hand side, "The Adoration of the Wise Men," with the "Flight into Egypt;" and on the left, "The Adoration of the Shepherds," with the "Annunciation." These altars, and especially the principal one, are decorated with col umns and a great profusion of arabesques, in low relief, all gilded or painted with different colors, according to the requirements of the Moorish style. Besides the images we have mentioned there are the statues of the twelve apostles, placed in niches cut in the pillars of the church, and many others, representing generally some saints of the Order of St. Francis. There are also in the dome of the cupola the pictures of several personages of the order who occupied high rank in the church. Returning to the front door, we find two small openings communicat ing with the towers. The first room on the right, which is formed by the inside of the tower, is about twelve feet square, and is used for the minis tration of baptisms. A similar room, which is of no particular use now, but which corresponds to the mortuary chapel of the old basilicas, is lo cated in the left tower. From each one of these rooms commence the stairs, cut in the thickness of the walls, and leading to the upper stories. Starting from the baptistery, the second flight reaches the choir of the church. A good view of the upper part of the monument can be had from that place. There are also some frescoes worth noticing. These are the Holy Family, facing the main altar; St. Francis, represented as raptured by heavenly love, in a fiery chariot; St. Dominic receiving from the Blessed Virgin the mission to promote the devotion of the rosary in the world; and the four Evangelists, with their characteristic attributes. Two flights more lead to the belfry, where are four rough and home-made bells of small size. Twenty-two steps more bring the visitor to the top story and under the little dome covering the tower, an elevation of about seventy-five feet above the ground. Here a glance can be cast on the beautiful and ex tensive valley of the Santa Cruz, and the surrounding country. One of the towers, as can be seen, was never completed; it lacks the dome and plastering from the second story above. The reason why it re mained unfinished is not known. On the west side of the church, separated from it by a narrow passage, is an inclosure with an opening on the north and a small chapel standing at its western side. The ground enclosed was formerly used as a ceme tery, and the chapel was the place where the dead bodies were kept until the ceremony of the burial could be performed. On the east side of the church is the mission building, which formerly occupied a somewhat extensive space, and consisted of the rooms necessary for the priests, of a soap factory and stores for the provisions. Besides, there were several farming houses conveniently located on the mission land. Of these buildings there are now only two rooms, making a body with the church, and four extending south and facing on the church plaza. The little butte adjoining the church shows, on its top, the crater of an extinct volcano." Some fantastic legend is invariably attached to an old A Legend Of ruin by tbe ignorant or credulous, and the mission church . of Tumacacori, near Tubac, has not escaped, for it is be- lUmacaCOn. lieved by the ignorant Mexicans that at dreary mid night's cheerless hour, mass is celebrated by a ghostlv priest. The belief is apparently sustained by the personal experience of a rat/uao named Davila, who claims to have involuntarily attended mass in The Story of the Sim-Kissed Land. 25 the ruins in company with two others, but the traditional fatality, which imposed the penalty of death upon mortal witnesses, did not operate in their case, except after a long interval. "We had been herding some cattle in the mountains, The GhOStlv an<^ when we reached the mission, about an hour before * midnight, our horses were so worn out that we could Priest. urge them no further, and, much against our inclinations, we resolved to camp in the ruins and make Tubac next morning. We turned our animals loose in the enclosure behind the church, and carried ourl traps into the vestibule of the building. Neither o'f my companions had any superstitious fears, and mine were not strong enough to bother me. The interior was dark and dismal as a cavern, but beyond, the moon light streaked the walls of the nave,, and the cupola above the chancel glistened like a snowdrift in the sunlight. It was the work of a few moments to build a fire, and as the flames rose, the shadows danced on the walls, and the smoke curled up like in cense, causing the bats to whine and screech as they fluttered from the roof, in and out and round about. As we lolled by the fire and toasted our came-seca, my thoughts ran back through the years to the time when the gloomy building our presence seemed to desecrate was the heart of life, industry and zeal. Our shad ows stretched along the floor, over the straggling weeds that grew where worshipers had knelt, and, towering upwards, seemed to threaten us from the cracked and crumbling walls. Having been up most of the previous night, we were well disposed to take advantage of the present opportunity to rest. There was a large pile of loose straw in one corner, and we spread this on the ground and covered it with our saddle cloths. How long we slept I never knew, for slumber measures not time, but I was suddenly awakened by a clutch upon my shoulder and a hoarse whis per in my ear, 'Mirad por Dios!' Starting up, I was conscious of the fact that the fire had gone out and ihe moon had dropped behind the western hills, yet there was a strange glow about me that cast no shadows, as if the air itself were luminous. If my companions had awakened they showed no signs of animation now, but knelt by my side, motionless as statues, their faces corpse-like, and their eyes fixed with a glassy stare upon the distant chancel. As my gaze turned in the same direction, every hair upon my head seemed to prick and burn, the pulsation of my heart was stilled, a clammy sweat beaded my forehead and fell upon my clasped hands, and my soul succumbed to the influence of inexpressible awe. What I saw seemed pictured on my mind from within and not visible as material things are. The chancel glowed with the same strange light that filled the space about me, but more intense and with a faint purple tint. I felt like one sinking in deep waters, with life passing away in a dream, when the sound of a soft, low chant bubbled in my ears like the voice of a distant stream; louder it grew and louder, then seemed to sleep, then swelled again full of rich melody. It suddenly ceased and a form robed like a priest knelt in the chancel, and an acolyte knelt on each side of him and gently swayed the censers, and the incense rose and hung above the three forms like a cloud. The chant began again and the priest turned his face to the auditorium and appeared to mutter a prayer. Through the misty incense which now coiled about him like a shadowy serpent, the features could be partially distinguished. They were those of an aged man, full of benignity but tinged with sorrow. He turned and knelt again with the acolytes behind him, and the chant ceased. Now the 26 Treasure Land. auditorium was filled with dark forms that drifted in like smoke through the open roof and the windows, assumed human shapes and knelt upon the floor. The chanting recommenced and grew louder and louder as the priestly form arose and. turning, raised its hands to heaven as if invoking a blessing. The kneeling forms in front bent lower and lower until they were level with the floor. The chant ceased and there came a sound like the rush of a hurricane, a mighty shriek rent the air, and I must have fallen senseless, for I knew no more!" Attention has been elsewhere called to the bar between the limbs as an insignia of priesthood or strong medicine. The figure here represents a practitioner of more than ordinary ability, who is taken in the act of exhorting the world of sinners to flee from the wrath to come. Above him is an elaborate representation of the heavenly home of the spirits of the blessed, the separate mansions being plainly in dicated. The small figure in the upper left-hand corner is the mummified remains of one of those unfortunate beings who neglected, while on earth, to provide for his spiritual welfare, and now suffers the torment of surveying a felicity that he cannot enjoy. The attachment to the heavenly city, which has the appearance of an ordinary key, is the all-seeing eye of the Deity who has provided the delectable mansions and watches over the welfare of their inhabitants. Where ft has keen asked again and again, where the missionary X\\& thf> Fathpt-c fatllers obtained the means to build such structures DIU me r diners as those we find at San Xavier and Tumacacori, and the Get the Means? belief is general that they derived considerable wealth from working the mines. The records, however, show no income from this source, so far as we can learn, and from this it might be inferred that the popular belief is unfounded. We can readily see, though, why the mining operations of the Fathers wore not recorded. The King of Spain assumed that he was entitled to all the mineral product that the officials had no use for, and if the Fathers wished to derive any profit from mining, their operations had to be con ducted secretly. We do not for a moment doubt that they availed themselves freely of nature's treasures, and that the noble edifices, whose ruins we behold to-day with admiration and wonder, were built in great part from the product of clandestine mining operations. The missions also raised live stock in large numbers and cultivated the lands extensively, but these resources can not alone account for the dis bursements. ' This is a battle scene, and depicts a mighty warrior in the very act of vanquishing his foes. While he sustains his trusty bow with one hand (which, being his left, suggests contempt for his adversaries), he chival rously urges the fear-stricken host to yield them prisoners and save effusion of blood. The trembling wretches (observe the two figures below ) throw up appealing arms and beg for mercy. The fact that they are so paralyzed with fear as to be unable to fly is ingeniously indicated by the omission of their organs of locomotion. The character between the outstretched limbs of the warrior is a fallen foe. his defunct condition being cleverly emphasized by the insignificance of his appearance and lack of human attributes. This is a spirited composition and must have immortalized the artist. 1 The Story of the Sun-Kissed Land. 27 THE PIONEERS. The soldier, marching at his sovreign's call — 77ie cannon, belching at a living wall — An empire rising on a kingdom's fall — These found no state ! But they, who dared the dangers of the ivild, Leaving their homes and kindred far behind ; Witli dreams of future glory unbeguiled, Seeking alone to benefit mankind — • These found a state! And millions, yet unborn, shall hold them dear, And bless the memory of the Pioneer. Only a few centuries ago, Columbus resolutely grasped a world, though opposed by the ridicule and sneers of Christendom; Cortez and Pizarro conquered kingdoms and empires, and enriched Europe by their chivalry and prowess; great armies flocked to the standards of DeLeon, Narvaez and DeSoto, laughing, in their enthusiasm, at all obstacles and perils. "It was," as Irving says, "poetry in action; it was the knight-errantry of the Old World carried into the depth of the American wilderness; in deed, the personal adventures, the feats of individual prowess, the pictur esque descriptions of steel-clad cavaliers, with lance and helm and pranc ing steed, glittering through the wildernesses of Florida, Georgia and Ala bama, and the prairies of the far West, would seem to us mere fictions of romance did they not come to us recorded in matter-of-fact narratives of contemporaries, and corroborated by minute and daily memoranda of eye witnesses." Then there were scores of others, mad with will and energy and ro mantic aspirations, breasting a hundred crushing storms and conquering a thousand incredible obstacles in their resolute marches through unknown wildernesses, and among treacherous and implacable savages. The pioneers of Arizona were animated, not so much by romantic en thusiasm, as a steady purpose to subdue the wilds to the purposes of civ ilization, and make them theirs. Their chivalry was the rough-hewn hon esty of the frontiers, which maintained inviolate the sacred principles of free government. Conscious of ultimate victory, and foreseeing the day when civilized homes would form a living chain from ocean to ocean, they eagerly sought the vanguard; they were Americans and aspired to be, as they should be, the first in everything that conduces to the grandeur or welfare of their country. There was no vain glory in their march, no steel- clad cavaliers, with lance and helm and prancing steed — no dreams of Fountains of Youth or El Dorado. They sought a new field for their irre pressible energy, the opportunity to found a new commonwealth, and they were as brave a body of men as ever attempted to found a civilized state. Never in the history of the world did man have to contend against as formidable a foe as did the Arizona pioneers. Harassed on all sides by the relentless Apache, cut off from civilization by the desert plains of New Mexico and California, they lived a life of constant warfare and privation, a few determined men against hordes of savage foes. 28 Treasure Land. To recount their hardships, the scenes of bloody strife and savage am bush, is not within our power; they are recorded in the unwritten history of Arizona. Many of these hardy settlers fell victims to Indian cunning, and the finding of a few bleached bones in after years was all the record left of their taking off. Their ranks grew thinner and thinner as the years rolled by, but still they persevered in their purpose to make Arizona a home for their race. All over Arizona there are found to-day remnants of the dauntless band enjoying the glory of successful achievement. Gray-bearded and bent, per haps, but still hearty old fellows, and foremost in everything that tends to carry their good work along. Out of their ranks come men fitted for every public duty. They are among our best citizens and prosperous busi ness men. They have seen the territory transformed from a desolate waste to one of the most fertile lands on earth; they reflect on the past, see through the dim years scenes of strife and hardship where now reign peace and pros perity, and with the dew of recollection in their eyes cry, "Advance, Ari zona!" In the year 1824, a party of 100 hardy and adventurous The First frontiersmen set out from Kentucky upon a trapping expedition to the headwaters of the Arkansas river. Pioneers. After many romantic adventures in New Mexico, the party dispersed, but a few of the boldest spirits under took to reach the Pacific coast. They spent one winter at the headwaters of the Gila river, and the next spring trapped down the river to its con fluence with the Colorado, where Yuma now stands. Here they em barked their canoes on the turbid waters of the Colorado and drifted down to the Gulf of California, whence they crossed the peninsula to San Diego. Here two of the party, Sylvester Pattie and his son, James, were imprisoned by the Mexican commandant, and after a long and cruel confinement the elder Pattie died. His son James was then released and found his way back to civilization. He published a book giving an account of his adventures, although Col. Poston claims that he was never heard of after his release from prison. The late Pauline Weaver, a trapper from Tennessee, was at the Casa Grande, near the present site of Florence, in 1832. He was the original discoverer of the famous gold placers near Antelope peak, about forty miles south of Preseott, and remained in Arizona till his death a few years ago. During the Mexican war, a number of scouting parties and messen gers passed through the Territory, and a few trappers, guides and hun ters of American and half-breed birth penetrated the country. Felix Aubrey made several trips into the Tonto basin, the Gila valley, the Santa Rita mountains and other portions of the Territory; Capt. John Moss penetrated the cafions of the Great and Little Colorado, and Capt. Adams explored the same river. The cession of Arizona and New Mexico north of the Gila river was consummated February 2. 3848, and the balance of these Territories was acquired under the Gadsden Purchase, December 30, 1853. The United States Boundary Commission (1849-51) was the first body of Americans, known to the country at large, which entered the borders of Arizona. After the discovery of gold in California, the valley of the Gila became a highway for the more daring and adventurous of those who, from 1849 on, made their way across the continent by the southern route. In 1854, Col. C. D. Poston landed at Navachiste, in the Mexican state of Sinaloa, and explored the country as far as Sonoita, and thence through the Papago country to Gila Bend, Fort Yuma and San Diego. The Story of the Sim-Kissed Land. 29 In August, 1856, an exploring party outfitted at San Antonio, Tex., and after a perilous journey reached Tubac, and proceeded, under the direction of Col. Poston, to examine the rich silver mines' reported to exist in the mountains. In the latter part' of 3857 the San Antonio and San Diego semi-monthly stage line was established and this continued until the following year, when the Butterfield semi-weekly line was put on. The usual time was twenty-two days from St. Louis to San Francisco, and until the out break of the civil war there was not a single break in the service. Among the earliest scientific explorers were Prof. W. P. Blake and Herman Ehrenberg. Prof. Blake was in charge of the government geologi cal survey, and is now director of the Mining School of the University of Arizona. Ehrenberg remained in the Territory while Poston visited Washington City, and until he returned across the plains in 1856 with a colony of Americans and Germans, who settled in Tubac and engaged in mining. Col. Poston attracted capital to the extent of nearly a million dollars in the development of mines, and the exploitations were in a promising condition when in 1861 the exigencies of the civil war caused the with drawal of the Federal troops and the temporary abandonment of the Ter ritory. In 1857 efforts were made to secure civil government, but were un successful. On February 27, 1862, a company of Texan guerillas, under Capt. Hunter, reached Tucson and took possession of the place and held it until the advance of the California column in May warned them to retire. The Apaches, ignorant of our domestic disturbances, believed tnat they had stampeded the white population and evinced a desire to take posses sion of everything, lt was perilous to go a mile away from the Avails of Tucson, and outlying settlements were entirely abandoned. Union rule was reestablished in 1863, and on the 24th of February of the same year the organic act creating the Territory of Arizona was passed. Its history since then has been one of incessant struggle with the savage Apa«he up to their absolute overthrow less than a decade ago. Since then it has become more prosperous every year, and now claims a population of 100,000 and all the elements necessary to entitle it to become a sovereign state. Here the artist aimed to depict action, and, in a measure anticipated the invention of the kinet- oscope. The figure to the right represents a serpent coiled, but ready to spring forth on the slightest provocation ; the middle one is the same serpent in the act of striking the indefinite object on the extreme left The writer puzzled over this picture for more than an hour, op pressed with an idea that it meant more than appeared on the surface, and as he was about to despair of penetrating its occult significance, the whole truth was revealed. It is marvelous; astonishing! All that the observer has to do is to fix his gaze upon the picture, then a rapid movement of the head from side to side causes the coiled serpent to unwind and dart against the object to the left. How many generations of Indians stood before this wonderful achieve ment and wriggled their heads, before modern science discovered this method of enabling eager millions to witness a prize fight without going to see it? }?Jki^ a 30 Treasure Land. The following panegyric on the men who pioneered the wilderness of Arizona is from the pen of the Hon. Chas. Old Times. A. Shibell, county recorder, who came here in the early part of 1862 and has been prominent and distinguished in public life ever since: "My thoughts instinctively surge back to the old times, when our days were days of watching and our nights seldom brought us rest. It travels back, and the mile-stones are the bloody graves of innumerable friends and companions who fell by the merciless hand of the Apache. Their names will now have no more significance to the world than those on the heastones in the cemetery of a strange land, but to the pioneers who shared their hardships and live to glory in their memory, each once familiar name will reveal the stirring scenes they shared. In those days we were a band of brothers. The strife for honor, position and wealth carried little weight with us and friendship meant all the word implies; and even yet, though selfish career may, seemingly, drive us apart, yet, when the occasion requires, the bond of fealty asserts itself, and the love between us proves as strong as in the early days, when a simple 'good-bye' meant an eternal farewell. Such were, and are, the pioneers, and their deeds cannot perish from the earth. They live in spirit and speak to the hearts of future generations, noble examples of what man will do for man. The pioneer, schooled in the passive as well as the active virtues, disciplined in patience, fortitude and self control, learned the highest lesson this life can teach — the cheerful readiness to try again." There were probably several American flags in Arizona The First before this particular one, but this had a right to un furl its glorious colors to the breeze. Flag. Arizona had just become attached to Uncle Sam, like a patch to his coat tails, by virtue of the Gadsden Pur chase, and the Americans residing in Tucson celebrated the occasion by hoisting Old Glory under the shadows of Sentinel peak. The Mexican garrison evacuated Tucson in February, 1855, and hauled down the Eagle and Cactus as they marched away. The Americans quickly lashed several long mesquite poles together for a flagstaff and unfurled the starry banner to the breeze and saluted it with rousing cheers as it rose. The commander of the Mexican troops demanded that the flag be lowered until his men had reached the frontier, but the Americans de clined to obey, and being well armed and determined to maintain their right to fly the flag they loved, the matter was dropped. There are two different accounts of the affair which can not be har monized. One is to the effect that a real flag was furnished by Edward Miles, and the other, equally 'as well substantiated, claims that no flag could be obtained and three handkerchiefs of the proper color were knotted iogether. The Among the more interesting and exciting episodes of the Trahh ante-bellum period was the ill-starred Crabb expedition. ^ a In 1856, Gandara was the legally elected Governor Expedition. of the Mexican state of Sonora, and as his political opponent, Ygnacio Pesquiera, could not manipulate the returns, he raised a revolt. Henry A. Crabb met Pesquiera and proposed to him to bring down a force of 1,000 armed Americans to emphasize his demand for a recount. Crabb's reward was to be a strip of territory across the northern frontier of Sonora, and the armed Americans were to be considered as colonists, the assumption being that a sufficient number of ingenious artisans would be introduced to transform the instruments of death into peaceful implements of husbandry. The Story of ihe Sim-Kissed Land. 31 Crabb found no trouble in gathering his colonists in California, and at once marched via Yuma to Filibusters' Camp, on the Gila. The main body stayed here to recruit the animals, while the leader set forward with an advance guard of 100 men. Meanwhile Pesquiera had settled the Ganda ra matter, and the Crabb expedition was being used against him by his enemies to destroy the fruits of his victory. Being an accomplished politician, Pesquiera promptly denied any complicity with Ciabb, and to effectually establish his innocence roused the State against him, besieged him at Caborca, and after a desperate fight, killed or captured the whole party. The prisoners were promptly executed, and Pesquiera remitted poor Crabb's head to the City of Mexico as a proof of his intense loyalty to his country and his undying hatred of foreign interference. The main body of Crabb's party, hearing of his death, threw up their commissions and returned to private life. When the news of Crabb's imminent clanger reached Tucson, a party of twenty-seven Americans organized and started to his relief, but ar rived too late, and had to fight their way back against overwhelming numbers. m* This was found on a stone facing the west, whence we infer that it is a vivid representation of sunset : the artist, with a cunning that strikes us with amazement, adroitly reversing the position of the rays, in order to distinguish it from another masterpiece portraying a sunrise. The difficulty of distinguishing between these two phenomena, so nearly alike in all respects, has troubled artists of every age, but the untutored Indian, whose name and race are lost to history, offers a solu tion that our modern artists can avail themselves of without any sacrifice of professional pride. The first printing press was brought into the territory Thp First from °nio alm set up in Tubac> tnen one oi tue mo^ c important settlements. The editor was Col. Cross, a Newspaper. fire-eating veteran of the Mexican war, who anticipated modern methods of increasing circulation by beginning a series of virulent attacks upon Lieut. Sylvester Mowry- As the colonel had the only printing outfit in the country, the lieu tenant could not retaliate by printing an alleged portrait of his tradueer in an opposition paper, and was therefore compelled to send him a chal lenge, which was accepted. The weapons were Burnside rifles, and the principals, who stood eighty paces apart, were seconded by Grant Oury for Mowry and John W. Donaldson for Cross. The first two exchanges of shots disappointed both parties, and on the third, Mowry's weapon refused to operate. The code was then invoked in Mowry's behalf and he was accorded another dis charge. Col. Cross folded his arms and calmly waited, having probably concluded that if two professional fighters couldn't hit a mark in five shots the chances were good for a miss on the sixth. Mowry raised his rifle, ably assisted by his second, and after wobbling it around until it covered the earth, took a snap shot at the firmament. Thus was The Arizonian introduced to the world! But as an ad vertising scheme the duel was not a success, and The Arizonian failed to flourish. Mowry afterwards purchased it himself and moved it to Tucson, where it was edited by J. Howard Mills, who was also a justice of the peace. Mills soon retired, and in his farewell address to an un- appreciative public, delicately alluded to the fact that his derringer could be purchased at less than eost. 32 Treasure Land. u„™ thfl Col. C. D. Poston, who is a brilliant raconteur and has HOW ine a strong UUDDiing sense of humor, gives in his remin- TerritOryWas iscenses the following account of the preliminary wire- nrtr-itiiypd pulling that led to the organization of the territory: urgamzea. „^t the meeting of congress in December, 1862, I returned to Washington, made friends with Lincoln, and proposed the organization of Arizona. Oury was in Richmond, cooling his heels in the ante-chambers ot the Confederate Congress, without gaining admission as a delegate from Arizona; Mowry was a prisoner in Yuma, cooling his head from the political fever which had afflicted it, and meditating on the decline and fall of a West Point graduate. There was no other person in Washing ton, save Gen. Heintzelman, who took any interest in Arizona affairs; they had something else to occupy their attention, and did not even know where Arizona was. Old Ben AVade, chairman of the senate committee on territories, took a lively and bold interest in the organization of the territory, and Ashley, chairman of the committee in the house, told me how to' accomplish the object. He said there were a number of members of the expiring congress who had been defeated in their own districts for the next term, who wanted to go West and offer their political serv ices, and if they could be grouped and a satisfactory slate made, they would have influence enough to carry the bill through congress. Consequently an 'oyster supper' was organized, to which the 'lame ducks' were invited, and then and there the slate was made, and the Ter ritory was virtually organized. Towards the last it occurred to my ob- fusticated brain that my name did not appear on the slate, and I ex claimed, in the language of Daniel Webster: 'Gentlemen, what is to become of me?' Gourley politely replied: 'Oh, we'll make you Indian agent' So the bill passed, Lincoln signed all the commissions, the oyster supper was paid for, and Arizona launched on the political sea." r rnmpnt Money was easily made when the California volunteers bOVernmem came t0 Tucson m ig63. Barley brought ten cents a Hay pound and was hard to get at any price. in 1 R£^ ^e Quartermaster's office used to be about where in J ooj. the New Qrndorff hotel now stands and the scales stood just outside. On one occasion Billy Bowers learned that the quartermaster was short on barley and that Nick Chambers had all there was in town, about a wagon load. Billy hunted up the quartermaster and contracted to de liver ten loads at a high figure, the grain to be weighed on the scales and then delivered at the corral half a mile away. Being an ignorant frontiers man he didn't want any vouchers or other red tape about the business, and insisted upon receiving cash for each load as it was weighed. Having arranged these preliminaries to his satisfaction, he began busi ness by borrowing a team from Nick Chambers and the use of his load of barley. Loading it on the quartermaster's scales he received its value and reloaded again. He ought to have taken it to the corral according to contract, but seeing that it was only borrowed he didn't feel that it was right to do this, besides a little more weighing wouldn'l hurt it in the least, so making a detour he returned it to the scales and received another payment for it. He was again on the horns of a di lemma. If he took the grain to the corral he was disposing of property that didn't belong to him, and if, on the other hand, he failed to deliver ten loads to the government, he violated his contract. Billy solved the problem by weighing the barley ten times and then returning it to its owner, a trifle the worse for handling but still merchantable. Half an The Story of the Sun-Kissed Land. 33 hour afterwards he was on the road to Tubac and has not been heard of since. Nick Chambers swore that he was not privy to the scheme, and be lieved the barley had been borrowed just to give the animals a smell of decent food, but as he was reputed to be a shrewd trader, the popular verdict was against him. Hank and Yank, as well as others, coined money on hay contracts. If they didn't get two or three heavyweight teamsters on the scales for good measure it was because the scales were fixed otherwise. Up at a camp near Maricopa y built a stone corral with the rocks that came in the hay. The story would be incomplete without a reference to jn Dr. J. C Handy, whose untimely death about six . years ago appeared to be a public calamity. Dr. Memonam. W. H. Fenner was for several years associated with him in the practice of medicine and refers to him as a man whose strong character impressed itself on all who met him. His enemies exaggerated his vices, and those who loved him, and they were many, never realized the half of his virtues. He came to the Territory as an army surgeon, but resigned and began the practice of medicine in Tucson. He was principal surgeon for The Southern Pacific Railroad Company from the time the line was opened for traffic until his death. He was active in all public matters and occupied several public positions. He would have led in his profession anywhere, and his reputation here has never been excelled. His death brought sorrow to many a house hold and even his enemies grieved to see him go. V *** This is a quadruped, but of what species can not be absolutely determined. The ex- cresences on the head might be horns, but from the appearance of the other end we incline to the belief that the artist had a coyote in his mind when he finished his labors.This is unquestionably a horned toad de picted in the act of walking up a rock to catch a fly, and is a very creditable per formance.* The triple serpent was a favorite combination with the rock-carver, and evidently has some esoteric significance. It is scarcely possible that it was intended to represent pictorially the scientific fact that three of a hind beat two pair, and yet there is no more probable explanation offered. In the year 1870 the Pinal and Arivaipa Apaches were CamD Grant placed upon a reservation arouud old Camp Grant, at the junction of the San Pedro and Arivaipa, about fifty-five Massacre. miles from Tucson, in charge of civil agents, but these proving unsatisfactory, Lieut. Royal E. Whitman, of the United States Third cavalry, was assigned as agent. Being a thrifty per son, he quickly realized the money-making possibilities of his position and left the Indians to follow their own inclination while he pursued his. The Indians soon began to plunder and murder the settlers within a radius of 100 miles, finding succor and protection with the agent, who was applying the same commercial principles in a more civilized manner. The citizens 34 Treasure Land. organized and appealed to Gen. Stoneman, department commander, who was then encamped on the Gila river, near Florence, but he would do nothing and suggested that the citizens should protect themselves. The depredations and outrages continued, and in April, 1871, it was determined to make a raid on the Camp Grant Indians who were known to be the principal depredators. The avenging band rendezvoused on the Rillito op posite San Xavier, under the leadership of the late Hon. W. S. Oury and Jes. M. Elias, and comprised ninety-two Papago Indians, forty-eight Mex icans and six Americans; the eighty-two Americans who had solemnly pledged themselves to be ready at any moment for the campaign being rep resented by the above insignificant number. A wagon with arms, ammuni tion and stores was provided by the Hon. J. B. Allen, then adjutant gen eral of the territory, an act of official courtesy that the old general can safely attach his name to at this late date. Mr. Oury took the precaution to send a note back to Tucson addressed to the late H. S. Stevens, urging him to send a party to a point on the road to Camp Grant, with instructions to stop any and all travelers, and without this precaution the raid would have been a failure. The party started before daylight and reached the San Pedro bottoms on the morning of April 29, where it remained till nightfall. As soon as it was dark the march was resumed, the intention being to strike the enemy's camp at midnight, but the distance had been miscalculated and they did not reach it till the early morning. The attack was so swift and fierce that within half an hour the whole work was ended and not an adult Indian left to tell the tale. Some twenty-eight or thirty small papooses were spared and brought to Tucson. Not a single man of the party was in jured, and at eight o'clock on the bright morning of April 30, 1871, the little band breakfasted on the San Pedro, a few miles above the post, with the full satisfaction of a work well done. This is the portrait of a mighty bowman in the act of perceiving an enemy. The left hand is upraised to inform his followers (so far behind that the artist could not introduce them to the public) of his desire to cope with the foe unaided and alone. The curves of his limbs portray his firm resolution, just as the unusual length of bow proclaims his giant strength. His extra ordinary girth shows his importance, and the elongation of the neck indicates the ambitious character of his mind. This is the most striking and successful attempt at portraiture to be met with on the rocks, and in naturalrfbss of treatment surpasses samples of early Egyptian art, which often tire with their absurd conventionalism. We are indebted to Mr. Harry D. Foreman, son of the late S. W. Foreman, who made the first survey of 1870-1871 . Tucson, for copies of letters written by his father in 3870- 71, and regret that lack of space prevents us from giving them to our readers entire. In one letter he speaks of the richness of the Santa Cruz and other val leys south of Tucson, and says: "The soil is very rich; the Santa Cruz, a large, rapid stream, with many tributaries, winding through valuable tim ber, grazing and agricultural lands. Four or more men, armed with re volvers, accompany one team when plowing, and the plow is adorned with a gun strapped to it. Every house is a fort and, notwithstanding these precautions, stock is frequently stolen, and scores of graves attest the fell work of the savage. "On Monday a small band of Indians stole some stock from a ranch twelve miles south of Tucson. A small party went in pursuit and recap tured the stock, after killing one Indian. The Story of the Sun-Kissed Land. 3"> "Yesterday the Indians attacked McKensey's ranch, on the San Pedro, murdered him and drove off his stock. A party of settlers followed and overtook them, and found them reinforced by about 100 from the military feeding posts. In the fight that followed, H. C. Long, Owry Chapin and Egcard Unter were killed, and the Indians escaped." The first American store was opened in Tucson, March An Historical ^' 1856, by Mr. Solomon Warner, who is still living. . The population of the town at that time was about 400 Brief. Mexicans and fifty Americans. The first stage coach ran out of Tucson in 1858, and in February, 1859, the first newspaper published in Arizona made its appearance at Tubac, under the name of the Weekly Arizonian, with Col. E. Cross as editor. The Territory of Arizona was regularly organized December 29, 1863. The Southern Pacific railroad reached Tucson, April 15, 1880. The city of Tucson was duly organized in 1871, with the following officers: S. R. DeLong, mayor; Hiram S. Stevens, treasurer; W. J. Osborn, assessor and recorder, and Samuel Hughes, W. W. Williams. C. O. Brown and Wm. S. Oury, councilmen. Of these, Hiram Stevens and W. S. Oury have passed away, but the rest are with us. In this picture we are introduced to some of the mysteries of ancient religious rites. Here is a priest, or medicine-man, with one hand on his hip to express confidence in his own powers, while with right arm upraised he exorcises the evil spirit indicated by the figure to the left. The spirit is troubled and anxious to go, but is held by the priest's magnetic glare until the audience (not shown in the picture) is convinced that there is no deception. It has been suggested that the bar between the limbs is an effort to realize a Masonic apron, but there is really no reason for supposing that the ancient Indian carried any Masonic secrets about him. Like the ancient Phoenicians, this primitive race immolated false prophets on their own altars, and in order to prevent them from absconding, when their exorcisms failed, shackled their limbs. This is a practice that could be revived to advantage among our own people. The man who was most instrumental in bringing about The COChise a treaty of Peace with the Chiricahua Apaches was the Hon. Fred. Hughes, to whom we are indebted for the Outbreak. following account of the cause of the first outbreak, in 1860: Capt. Richard Ewell, called "Baldy Ewell," who afterwards distin guished himself in the Confederate service, was succeeded in command of Fort Buchanan, at the head of the Sonoita valley, sixty-five miles from Tucson, by Col. Morrison, with two companies of the Seventh infantry. A short time after he assumed command, a settler in the Sonoita valley, named Ward, came to the Fort and complained that the Indians had stolen some of his horses and mules and a Mexican boy whom he had adopted. Lieut. Bascom was sent with a detachment to Apache pass, one of Cochise's strongholds, with instructions to recover and bring back the stolen prop erty and the boy, if they could be found. Bascom had just graduated from West Point, and was as deficient in judgment as he was totally ignorant of Indian character. He met Cochise at the Pass and stated the object of his mission, but the chief, who was then at peace with the Americans, re plied that neither the stock nor the boy had been taken by his band, but he would try to discover where they were and, if possible, have them returned. 30 Treasure Land. Next day Bascom invited Cochise and his brother and two nephews to a "big talk," and they came at the appointed time without suspecting any evil. The Lieutenant informed his dusky guests that he would hold them as hostages until the property and the boy were delivered up, and con signed them under guard to a tent. Upon realizing that he was a prisoner, the Apache chieftain sent forth the war cry of his tribe and, drawing a long knife, slashed open the side of the tent and sprang out, followed by his brother. A desperate hand-to-hand struggle with the soldiers then began, during which Cochise received a bayonet wound in the knee, and was seized by a powerful infantryman. The agile chief freed himself from the grasp of his assailant and fled to the hills. Lieut. Bascom, fearing trouble as the result of his action, retired with his troops to the mail station, of which they took possession. Next day Cochise appeared and demanded an assurance from Bascom that the prisoners had not been killed. This the Lieutenant refused to give, and Cochise rode off to his people. In the valley they encountered two Americans, named Wallace and Lyons, whom they took prisoners, and offered to surrender in exchange for the nephews of Cochise. Notwith standing the appeals of the two men, the exchange was refused and the poor fellows were led back to be tortured. Next day another effort to exchange was made, and still refused. The two captured Americans pleaded their sufferings without avail, and at last urged the Lieutenant to order his men to shoot them, so that they might be spared further suffer ing. To this also he turned a deaf ear and sheltered himself and his men behind the walls of the station. At a favorable moment Lyons, who was a powerful man, tore himself loose from the two Indians that held him and succeeded in scaling the outer wall of the station, when he was shot by the soldiers, who, in their confusion, mistook him for an Apache. Finding that no peaceful measures would prevail, and to strike terror into the hearts of his adversaries, a rope was thrown around the neck of the remaining captive and he was dragged to death in plain view of his countrymen. That evening signal fires flashed from the surrounding mountains, and next morning a thousand warriors surrounded the mail station, and if speedy reinforcements had not arrived from Buchanan and Breckenridge, not a man would have escaped. The captured Indians were taken to a point near the western end of the pass and there hanged from the limbs of an oak tree, and the troops returned home, having begun the first act in the drama of blood and rapine which desolated Southern Arizona for nearly fifteen years. After the breaking out of the civil war all the forts were abandoned, and Arizona left without military protection until the arrival of the Cali fornia column, in June, 1862. Mr. Hughes was acting Indian agent for the Chiricahuas after peace was concluded by Gen. Howard, and received the above particulars from Cochise himself, which he afterwards verified from other sources. He describes Cochise as a remarkable Indian, who would have made his mark among men had his lot been cast in a more fortunate sphere of life. In conversation he was very pleasant, and to his family and intimate friends he was more affectionate than the average white man; he showed nothing of the brutish nature generally attributed to him. It was aston ishing to see the power he had over this brutal tribe, for while they almost worshipped him, no man was ever more feared, his glance being enough to squelch the most obstreperous member of the tribe. He admired cour age even in his enemies, and has been known to weep over the body of a brave American, and regret the necessity for his death. His death was deeply lamented by his tribe, and the best informed Americans regretted it, for they knew that it meant a revival of warfare. The Story of the Sun-Kisssd Land. 37 Cochise Liked Whiskey. Just about the time that Gen. Howard concluded a peace with the Apache chief, Cochise, and appointed Capt. Jeffords agent, Mr. H. C. Hooker, of Sierra Bonita, received word that some Texas cattle were being held for him on the Rio Miembres. All his horses and mules that had not been stolen by the Indians were unfit for service, and learning that Capt. Jaffords was with Cochise in the Dragoon mountains and had two fine mules, he rode over with one of his men to see if he could borrow or buy them. Upon reaching the Indian camp he was seized and carried be fore the renowned chief, who, through an interpreter, informed him that Capt. Jeffords had gone; the mules, however, were there, but he could not have them. He had some animals of his own that he would trade off for ten gallons of good whisky, and asked Mr. Hooker to give him an order for that amount of whisky on a well-known merchant in Tucson. Mr. Hooker was curious to know how he could get the whisky on the order. "Umph!" said Cochise, "I have among my people those who can go any where and clothes to suit the character they play, from a soldier to a Mex ican vaquero!" Mr. Hooker refused to give the order, but was allowed to depart in peace. During the Indian troubles in Arizona it was a common remark that "the soldiers never found the Indians till the Indians found them," and the truth of this was sus tained by the facts. Not all of the critics, however, knew that this was the result of the perfect system of sig nalling used by the Indians, by means of which they were able to telegraph information from Mojave to the Rio Grande. Every mountain peak was a sentinel post, each prepared with bundles of hay arranged in such a manner that when one end of a bundle was lighted the smoke bore it up in the air like a balloon. The code was based upon a numerical system, and the signals were understood and repeated from peak to peak and the move ments of the troops faithfully reported. Indian Signals. Footprints on the Sands of Time. Whether the archa^opteryx macroura was a bird-like rep tile or a reptilian bird, is a question that may worry geologists, but is never likely to give any of our readers a headache. It will, however, interest them to learn that at some time in the Jurassic period they walked on the shores of unlocated lakes or seas in the vicinity of Tucson. There are no seas here now, and the only lakes we have are too modern to cover the case, but the footprints of the reptilian bird or the evoluting reptile are found imprinted on the stone slabs with which some of our sidewalks are veneered. We do not, however, wish the reader to infer that Tucson is so old that the Arehee (for short) walked its streets in the Jurassic or Triassic periods. These footprints show strongest on the slabs in front of the office of the Tucson Daily Citizen, and forcibly suggest the advantages to be derived from advertising with both feet if you wish to make a permanent impres sion on the sands of time. This has been taken for a landscape and a kitchen interior, but it is neither. It represents the Deluge, as plain as rock-painting art can do so, and opens up a vista of possibilities that dazzle and bewilder the mind of the savant. The double canoe at the bottom is the ark, the artist being limited by his experience, in portraying the great vessel. He realized that Noah and his family would keep out of the rain and hence does not attempt to 38 Treasure Land. represent them. The apparent tadpole is a sea serpent disporting on the distant wave, and the candelabra in the center is the tree of life rising out of the waters, while the unfinished base suggests the uncertainty of land tenure. The spectacled fire iron on the right is the great god of storms smiling with both eyes upon the new-rising earth. Even the dove is not forgotten entirely, his head appearing above the ark. If we had any doubts as to the origin of this people, this picture should settle them. It has been claimed that every primitive people had its tradition of a deluge, but this is the Deluge of Noah and no other. An erroneous impression prevails that our Spanish-Ameri- A Tvnical oan c'tizens are a drawback to our advancement; that they ' . are ignorant, bigoted and unprogressive. While this may Spanish,- be true of tnerr lowest class, as it is of our own, they American. average well in intelligence and the highest quality of citizenship. We reckon among them many of our best people, some of whom have attained eminence in public life and enjoy the respect and confidence of all classes. In the early days they stood shoulder to shoulder with us to repel the murderous Apache, and now, in the time of peace, they keep step in the march of progress. Among those who have become distinguished, ihe Hon. M. G. Samaniego stands in the front rank, being identified with every progressive movement that has taken place during the last thirty years. During the Indian up risings, his business of freighting for the government military posts exposed him to constant loss and peril. He was a member of the jury empaneled to try the actors in the Fort Grant massacre. He was the first assessor elected in Pima county, has served four terms in the city council and four on the board of county supervisors, represented the county in the legislature and was appointed one of the first regents of the university. At present he is a member of the board of supervisors, regent of the university, trustee of the Catholic cathedral, a leading member of the Spanish-American society, and charter member of the Philarmonic club. These distinctions are cited merely to show our reader the high esteem we entertain for our Spanish- American citizens, and this is no solitary instance of our appreciation. Mr. Samaniego suffered much from the Indians in early days, and lost his brother at Willow Springs, Graham county, as late as 1881, together with all his freighting stock. His energy was undaunted by reverses and he made new opportunities until he acquired more than he had lost. He is now one of our largest property owners and is interested in stock raising and other industries. As proprietor of the principal stage lines in the county, running regularly to Oro Blanco, Arivaca, Nogales and Mammoth, he is in close touch with our resources, and pronounces them unapproachable. As a. prominent member of the Society of Arizona Pioneers, he links the past with the present and shares the glory of the upbuilding of the future com monwealth of Arizona. On the 1st of January next, Tucson will be entitled to free mail delivery under the postal regulations, and this fact Thirty Years has reminded Mr. W. W. Williams, the reliable real estate ^„.Qi and insurance agent, of the postal facilities thirty years ago. Mr. Williams was a member of the old firm of Lord & Williams, one of the pioneer merchandising and banking establishments of Arizona. In 18G4 there were no regular mail facilities, and private letters only reached here through the courtesy of the army officers, and when there happened to be room in the mail pouches for them. Mr. Wil liams instances as a case of rapid transit a letter mailed in New York, Oc tober 3, which reached Cerro Colorado May 31 of the following year. The mails were carried by express riders, who were often stopped by Indians, and on such occasions everything, including the mail carrier, went to a dead letter office not established by the government. The Story of the Sun-Kissed Land. 39 Transportation was equally precarious. Merchandise was brought over land from California or by steamer to the Gulf, up the river to Yuma, and thence by wagon to Tucson, at a cost of twenty cents per pound in gold, greenbacks being worth only forty-five cents. Goods from the East by ox- wagons through New Mexico cost about the same, and required from ten to twelve months for the trip. Nevertheless, the old firm of Lord & Williams carried a stock of nearly $200,000 and controlled the chief trade of Southern Arizona and Sonora. In 1867, Tucson was a typical frontier town, with a popula tion of about 1,300, of whom not less than 1,000 were Mex- Further icans. The chief industry was the furnishing of supplies Particulars. to the government at exorbitant prices. The paymaster ar rived every six months and for a short time money was plentiful. Gambling was a. recognized profession, and the money was concentrated so swiftly that in a few weeks currency disappeared from general circulation and vouchers took its place. The code of honor was supreme, and a common danger made men fearless and resolute. A man's life was not safe a mile from town, for the Apache claimed to rule the suburbs absolutely. Every inducement was held out to them to preserve the peace, and they made many promises of good behaviour, none of which they kept longer than was necessary to gather a new stock of ammunition and recruit their forces. This condition of. affairs culminated in the so-called Fort Grant massacre, further particulars of which have been furnished us by the Hon. Sam. H. Drachman, who reached Tucson, September 4, 1867. "I had a contract to deliver 1,000 tons of hay at old Camp Grant when the trouble began, and had a. great deal of it stacked when peace was ar ranged, and the Indians signaled to outlying bands by setting my stacks on fire. The murdering of settlers went on just the same, however, and the people of Tucson were finally so aroused that they determined to take mat ters into their own hands. William Oury, since deceased, wrote to me to call upon Lieut. Whit man and request him to stop giving passes to the Indians. I did so, but no attention was paid to my request, and I so informed Mr. Oury. The result was that » force of 150 men, Americans, Mexicans and Papago Indians, was quietly organized and marched to Old Fort Grant, arriving there at the break of day. Negotiations were opened with the Apaches by a deadly fusilade that made 193 good Indians, and there being no more to negotiate with, the party retraced their steps to Tucson. As soon as the authorities at Washington were informed of the 'mas sacre,' an official was sent out to prosecute all concerned. Warrants were issued for the majority of the participants and they were brought to trial. The trial lasted thirty days and resulted, as might have been expected, in a verdict of 'Not Guilty,' the presumption being that the Apaches had com mitted suicide. This sudden retribution brought peace to Southern Arizona for a num ber of years, and struck terror into the heart of the cowardly Apache." In 1867 there were about half a dozen stores in Tucson, well stocked with all kinds of merchandise, but the prices Prices in were not the popular ones of. to-day by any means, for it 18?8. took from three to twelve months to replenish the stocks. Hon. Sam. H. Drachman gives us some quotations on staple articles, as follows: Coal oil, $8 per gallon; sugar, 75 cents per pound; coffee, $1.50; common soap, 50 cents a bar; calicoes, 50 cents a yard, and other goods In proportion. The advent of the railroad changed all this, and at the present time eastern prices generally prevail. 10 Treasure Land. San Xavier Hotel: 1. Side View. 2. Dining Room. 3. Bar. A sarcastical philosopher, who had traveled extensively, remarked that, "Any one can run a hotel," because he Here the found that nearly everyone tried to do it. We know, how- Weary Rest. ever, that the business calls for the possession of rare abilities and long experience, and only a few really achieve success in it. While we can not compete in size and style, or 'even in prices, with the Eastern hotel, the traveler who visits Tucson will find ample and pleasant accommodation. The San Xavier hotel, at the depot of the Southern Pacific railroad, has everything to recommend it, and the proprietor, Capt. J. H. Tevis, is one of the most genial hosts that ever lived. He came to Arizona in 1857, one year before the overland stage began to run; commanded the first regiment of rangers raised in Arizona, and had charge of the perilous station at Apache pass. He founded the town of Teviston (Bowie station), and has been actively engaged in mining, merchandising and hotel-keeping for all the years he has been here. He assumed charge of the San Xavier, May 22, 1897, and with his ac customed energy, entirely refurnished the capacious dining room, and made other changes that add materially to the comfort and elegance of the es tablishment. The hotel is situated on the highest point of the city and commands a fine view of the pine-clad Santa Catalinas and Santa Ritas, and an almost endless vista of undulating mesa, from the balconies. The accompanying views will give the reader a better idea of the hotel and its situation can can be conveyed in words. Life is Pleasant AND Here are Treasures or Health. 1. Sabino Canyon, near Tucson. 2. La Ventana, Summit of Sta. Catalina Mts. 3. Silver Lake, near Tucson. Oh, bear me away to that favored clime, Where Life reclines on the lap of Time, And you watch the smiling years roll by, While you list to the gentle lullaby Of zephyrs that play with the bright sunbeams, And the floioers that bloom in that Land of Dreams. 12 Treasure Land. In bulletin No. 20, of the University Experiment Station, The tne question of Temperature is so thoroughly covered Temperature that we make no apology to our reader for reproducing in \r\vnna ** almost entire. in Arizona. Jn auy mqUiry regarding Arizona the question first raised is that of temperature. The widely circulated tales of the would-be humorists have done more than all else to give Arizona the name of being uninhabitable. Generations of actual residents will have passed away before the harmful effects of these thoughtless tales wholly disappear, and the knowledge secures general recognition that this region is not the desert it has been represented. The simple thermometer does not measure temperatures as felt by animal life. We may term the reading of an accurate thermometer the actual, and the sensation of heat or cold as felt by the higher orders of animal life the sensible temperature. Neither of these is a measure of the other, but the humidity of the air must be considered in connection with the actual temperature. The reputation of Arizona has long suf fered from the prevalent ignorance on this point. Records of maximum temperatures enable comparisons to be made which appear unfavorable to Arizona, and lead to the belief that the heat of this so-called desert region must be almost, if not wholly, unendurable. Everybody knows something about that condition of the No MujrjTV weather which is variously termed "sultry," "close," or &&J "muggy," the result of a combination of heat and moist Weather. air, especially noticeable in the states bordering upon large bodies of water, such as the Gulf of Mexico or the Great Lakes, and it is conspicuously absent from Arizona. In the dry air of this territory "sun-strokes" are un- I^Q known, while iu the Mississippi valley and the states lying eastward, prostrations from heat and fatalities are Sun-StroKe. numerous whenever the thermometer indicates 90° F. or upwards. At many places along the sea coast where the humidity always remains near the point of saturation, a temperature of 85° brings excessive discomfort, and exertion or exposure to the sun is extremely hazardous, but men and the lower animals perform in safety their customary labor beneath the cloudless skies of Arizona under the highest temperatures ever experienced here. The dry air induces ex ceedingly rapid evaporation of the abundant perspiration, thus keeping the body at a comparatively low temperature. As a matter of course, the supply of fluid must be maintained, hence the great thirst so often experienced by travelers, and the imperative necessity for an adequate supply of drinking water. An amount ranging from 15° to perhaps 30°, according to the hu midity, should be subtracted from the records of maximum actual tem peratures during the hot season in Arizona to indicate the sensible tem peratures. The University of Arizona, near Tucson, is situated in latitude 32° 14' N., longitude 110° 53' W., elevation 2,430. Its climate is fairly rep resentative of a large portion of Southern Arizona, which must always remain the chief agricultural portion of the territory. For purposes of comparison of the climate of Southern Arizona with that of other localities, ten stations of the weather bureau have been chosen, which form, with Tucson, a continuous circuit of the United States, starting from Florida, crossing the Gulf states to the 1'acific ocean; thence eastward across a more northern tier of states to the Atlantic ocean, at Boston: Life is Pleasant and Here are Treasures of Health. MAXIMUM TEMPERATURES IN 1893. 43 Temperatures Compared. Station. Jacksonville, Fla. New Orleans, La. Galveston, Tex. . . University of Arizona, Tucson Los Angeles, Cal. San Francisco, Cal. . . Denver, Colo St. Paul, Minn. . Chicago, 111 Albany, N.Y Boston, Mass. . . Eleva tion above Sea. >>uCOpa 1-5 72 uCOPu & fa 89 o uCO 84 'u ft < 90 c0 93 uaP 95 1-5 100 mPP < 95 To a ^> CO 96 $ a O 88 u0 > o 84 a oCD P 77 Feet. 43 54 72 72 79 84 90 94 94 93 95 86 80 79 42 70 72 78 80 86 90 92 91 92 86 79 74 2,432 73 80 92 91 98 107 107 102 99 92 84 76 330 84 79 88 84 90 90 89 92 90 91 86 88 153 60 69 78 72 74 90 74 72 72 79 74 72 5,287 64 60 80 77 87 94 96 92 89 81 71 65 850 33 37 51 72 79 91 98 97 94 82 74 40 824 46 46 69 84 83 85 94 95 95 81 67 58 85 45 51 52 72 88 95 92 94 79 75 58 54 120 53 53 58 68 88 94 91 93 80 79 68 57 100 9592 107 92909098 959G94 From an inspection of this table it will be seen that the maximum winter temperatures of Southern Arizona are very nearly the same as those of the Gulf states. Those of summer are considerably higher, but taking into account the relative humidity at the same stations, the sum mer climate of Arizona is far less trying than that of the states border ing on the Gulf of Mexico. Thus the June temperature of 107° at Tucson with relative humidity at only 22 per cent, is far preferable to that of any other city in the list with temperatures of 85° to 95° and humidity at 65 to 83 per cent. A Bear Hunt in the St. Catalinas. On the 1st of November I went up to the pinery east of Mt. Lemmon, prepared for bear. After wandering about, climbing crags and following the windings of dark ravines for three hours, I decided to rest, and reaching the brow of a steep declivity, I threw myself at full length under the overhanging branches of a fine maple, whose glistening leaves, now tinged with gold, evoked vivid memories of my eastern home. Accidentally glancing across the narrow valley I saw a big black bear with two well grown cubs. The bear saw me at the same in stant, and looked towards me with such an expression of confidence in my good intentions that I could not at first find it in my heart to shoot. But the hunting instinct prevailed over finer feeling, and aiming at her breast, I fired. The beast jumped forward through the brush into the valley and up the hill toward me, and I was so overcome with nervousness that I never thought of firing again, but sought safety on a limb of the tree, about twenty feet from the ground, leaving my rifle on the ground. The bear came within a few yards of the tree, took a good look at me, and sniffing contemptuously, returned to her cubs. Her departure restored my courage, and its evident contempt made me angry to blood-thirstiness. I descended from my perch, seized my rifle, and advancing to the edge of the valley sighted my game frolicing up the mountain side with her cubs. 44 Treasure Land. This time a cub got in the way of the bullet, but the trio continued their journey with apparent unconcern. I followed the trail for another shot until darkness approached, when I returned to camp. Next morning I saddled a burro to carry the bear when I killed it, and striking a faint trail of blood, followed it a mile along the summit until it was lost in a tangle of wild blackberries and ferns. While I debated which direction to take I heard a low groan, and taking a position under a low cherry tree I waited for the groaner to appear. In a few moments the bear came. forth, followed by her cubs; she held her nose high in the air, and smelling her tormentor of the previous day, rushed towards me. I fired a shot at her breast and evidently hit her somewhere, for she jumped up and then fell back and rolled down the hill, the cubs scrambling after in comical amazement. I looked over and saw the animal sitting up, with the cubs about her crying pitifully. I was merciless though and fired another shot, which met an adverse current of air somewhere and sizzed away from the mark. Then I beheld the strangest scene I ever witnessed. Forgetful of her own sufferings the bear caught her cubs and drew them to her breast as if to protect them; one of them pulled away and she reached for it again, and hugged both to her breast like a human mother, while her great strange eyes seemed to appeal to me to spare them. So striking was the appeal that I could not find it in my heart to try to hit her again. I untied my burro and returned to camp, feeling that I had nearly committed a murder. Believes in Dr. Mark A. Rodgers, a member of the American _ . -. Climatological Society, has issued a pamphlet on "The UUl DOOr Climate of Arizona," which covers the subject fully, Life. and for the benefit of our readers we subjoin a few extracts from this publication: "My experience has impressed upon me the necessity for out-door life in the treatment of pulmonary tuberculosis. In order that the patient may live continuously in the open air for a period of several months, or, for that matter, for a year, or several years, a climate is required which is continuously warm and dry.. Such a climate the United States does not possess, but the nearest approach to it is in Arizona. "Physicians rarely send their patients to the arid regions during the summer, and this I consider a great mistake. The patients should be sent to the arid regions so soon as there is evidence of infection from the tubercle bacillus, and should be rnade to remain there until they are well, or until it is apparent that the case is hopeless. For those who can stand warm weather, I think the summers much better than the win ters, for, owing to the heat, everybody is compelled to sleep out of doors, and this I consider more important than any other feature of the climate. "If they have the means to travel about, there are many places of interest which they can visit, and thus add greatly to their pleasures. For example, during the hot months of summer, the patient may visit many of the most interesting and remarkable natural wonders which the world possesses, among which may be mentioned the Grand Canon of the Colorado, the Wind Carved Rocks, the Petrified Forests and Cliff Dwellings. The numerous ruins, which are found all over the territory, with their hieroglyphics and pictoglyphics, will repay investigation by the student of ethnology. In the country surrounding Flagstaff, in the San Francisco mountains, is the largest unbroken pine forest in the United States, and here the sportsman will find deer, antelope and bear, not to •speak of small game and fish." Life is Pleasant and Here are Treasures of Health,. 15 But the health-seeker need not go so far for a summer Need Not GO outing. The wooded ranges of the Santa Catalinas and „ Santa Ritas, within a few miles of Tucson, afford all oO Par. the recreation he needs in the way of moderate tem perature, hunting or scenery. In the southern part of the county, in the Huachuca and Patagonia mountains, is some of the finest scenery in the world, with hunting and fishing to the heart's content. If he does not care to camp out, the city of Nogales has good hotel accommodations and a summer tempera ture that can not be excelled, with mountain and forest to its very limits. "During the greater part of the year the inhabitants of NO Insects Or Southern Arizona sleep out of doors. It is difficult at ^ first to induce the 'tenderfoot' to sleep in the open air. Reptiles. He has visions of tarantulae, scorpions and centipedes, which are disquieting. In the course or time, how ever, he learns that these insects are so rare as to be curiosities, and that their sting is to be dreaded not so much as that of a California flea. The sensational Arizona tales of poisonous reptiles and insects, of murderous Apache raids, and of cow-boy and desperado shooting scrapes have no modern foundation in truth. "Many physicians in the East order patients to California for the winter, apparently with a view of sending them to a dry climate. The relative humidity in southern California is as great, and in some in stances greater, than that of the Atlantic coast, anfl Better than many of the best physicians in California regularly send r ... . their tubercular and asthmatic patients to Tucson. Cal- Lalltomia. ifornia is a beautiful country, but the fogs which come in from the sea, and the emanations from the vast irri gated regions, make it far inferior to the inland desert regions for phthisical patients. I think it may be assumed as a, general rule that wherever there is irrigation there is a high degree of relative humidity, and patients suffering from pulmonary phthisis should never be sent to an irrigated district. Indeed, some of the California physicians have declared that 'irrigation and malaria go together.' "The city of Tucson has, in my opinion, advantages as Tucson is a nealth resort which can not be equalled anywhere in North America. I know of no locality where such a First. moderate winter climate and such a low degree of relative humidity are combined with the same latitude and altitude. It is no longer considered imperative to send tubercular patients to an altitude of 5,000 feet, or over. In fact, clinical experience has proven that more frequently patients require to be sent to an alti tude of less, rather than more than 3,000 feet. The altitude of Tucson is 2,400 feet, and that seems to be amply high for all but the most exceptional cases. The city is situated in a basin near the underground Santa Cruz river. It is completely walled in by massive mountain ranges. To the north is the Santa Catalina range; to the east, the Rincon; to the south, the Santa Rita, and on the west, the Tucson. Each of these ranges has an altitude of 5,000 feet, at least. Mount Lemon, the highest peak of the Santa Catalinas, has an elevation of 10,000 feet, and Mount Wrightson, in the Santa Ritas, reaches an altitude of nearly 11,000 feet. "The scenery at Tucson is as impressive as anywhere in the Rocky mountains, and the gorgeous sunrises and sunsets beggar description. "During the nine months, October to June, inclusive, 1894-5, there were but twenty-five cloudy days, and nine of these were in one month. Some idea of the transparency of the atmosphere may be had when I state that, at midday, and with the unaided eye, I have seen Venus when it was but ten degrees east of the sun. 46 Treasure Land. "The writer feels kindly toward Arizona. One year ago, in Philadelphia, he was attacked with two hemorrhages from the lungs; he had a bad cough, and was losing flesh rapidly. On the advice of a distinguished member of the Climatological Society, he came to Tucson. Since that time he has gained twenty-six pounds in weight, and now is a well man." One of the Cured. Cactus Garden. Among the curiosities of the Santa Cruz valley is a rare A Marsupial fisn that is foun