YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Derby Be Jackson., TffewTin*k MEMOIR THE LIFE AND PUBLIC SERVICES JOHN CHAELES FREMONT, INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT 0*HIS EXPLORATIONS, DISCOVERIES AND ADVENTURES ON JTCVH SUCCESSIVE EXPEDITIONS ACROSS THB NORTH AMERICAN CONTINENT J VOLUMINOUS SELECTIONS FROM HIS PRIVATE AND PUBLIC CORRESPONDENCE; HIS DEFENCE BEFORE THE COURT MARTIAL, AND FULL REPORTS OF HIS PRINCIPAL SPEECHES IN THE SENATE OF THE UNITED STATES. BY JOHN BIGELOW. WITH SPIRITED ILLUSTRATIONS, AND AN ACCURATE PORTRAIT ON STEEL. NEW YORK: DERBY & JACKSON, 119 NASSAU ST, H. W. DERBY & CO., CINCINNATI. 1856. Kmtbrbd According to Act of Congress, in the yenfTBM, by DERBY & JACKSON, In tho Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Sonthem District of New York. W. H. Tihsoh, Stwreotyper. AliEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT, THIS MEMOIR OF ONE WHOSE GENIUS HE WAS AMONG THE FIRST TO DISCOVER AND ACKNOWLEDGE, IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOR. PREFACE ¦ The engrossing and universal interest recently awakened, in the subject of this memoir, by the presentation of his name as a candidate for the Presidency, is the author's apology for the faults of hasty preparation, which appear in the following pages. He felt, however, that the public were more concerned with the matter than the manner of his work, ajad would pardon almost anything in its execution more readily than delay. Under this impression he has aimed at but two results — fullness and accu racy. He has endeavored to lay before the reader every event in the life of Col. Fremont, and the substance of every letter, report, or speech of a public character that he has written or made, having a tendency to enlighten the country in regard to his qualifications for the highest honors of the Eepublic. The author is not conscious of having suppressed anything that ought to have been revealed, or of having stated a single fact which he did not believe to be susceptible of proof. To escape the sus picions, however, to which a biography of a presidential candi date is necessarily exposed, he has uniformly given official doc uments and contemporary evidence of the events he records, whenever it was practicable, that his readers may have as little trouble as possible in adjusting the measure of allowance to be Tl PREFACE. made for the partialities of political or personal friendship. A glance at the following pages will satisfy the most cursory ob server that it is no mere eulogy, but a faithful record of the life of Colonel Fremont, prepared, if not with skill and elegance, at least with diligence and a conscientious regard for truth. He regrets that the brief time allowed for its preparation, and the pressure of engrossing professional duties have prevented his making it less unworthy of its subject. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. * Parentage, Birth and Education, • • • . , 11 CHAPTER n. Chooses his Profession — Marries Jessie Benton. ...... .80 CHAPTER in. First Exploring Expedition — Explores the South Pass — Plants the American Flag on the highest Peak of the Rocky Mountains — Speech of Senator Linn, . . .80 CHAPTER IV. Second Exploring Expedition — Kit Carson — Mrs. Fremont withholds Orders from the War Department — Colonel Benton's Account of the Expedition — Discovers the Inland Sea — Perilous Voyage to its Islands in a linen Boat — Arrives at Fort Van couver and fulfills the Instructions of his Government, 69 CHAPTER V. 5 Second Exploring Expedition continued — Sets out from Fort Vancouver — Interest ing Indian Council— Speech of Col. Fremont — Journey through the Mountains — Insanity of his Men from Privation and Cold— Preuas loses his Way-- Arrival at the Rancha of Captain Sutter, 92 vii CONTENTS. CHAPTER VI. Second Exploring Expedition concluded — Encamps among the Digger Indians — Their Habits and Character — Massacre of Tabeau — Recovery of his Remains Return to Utah Lake— Analysis of the Results of the Expedition by its Command- 110 CHAPTER VII. Third Expedition— First Visit to Mariposas — Strange Phases of Indian Life— Fight with Horse-thief Indians — Loses all his Cattle in the Snow — Hostile Message from Governor Castro — Hoists the American Flag in California — Col. Benton's Account of the Conquest of Oalifornia — Kit Carson's Account of a Night Attack by a Party of Tlamath Indians— Pardon of Pico— Secretary Marcy's Account of the Conquest of California — Establishes the Independence of California 123 chapter vrn. Conquest of California completed — Joins Commpdore Stockton — Description of his Party on its arrival at Monterey — Organizes the California Battalion — Is appointed Major — Origin of the Controversy between Commodore Stockton and Brigadier- General Kearney — Commodore Stockton's report of the Conquest of South Cali fornia — Insurrection of the Wah-lah-wah-lah Indians quelled— Capitulation of Couenga— Fremont Governor of California, 158 CHAPTER IX. Origin of the Controversy between Col. Fremont and General Kearney— Is ordered by General Kearney not to re-organize the California BattaUon— His Reply- General Kearney claims the Command of the Californian Army— Commodore Stockton refuses to yield it— Their Correspondence— New Instructions from Wash ington—Kearney takes the Command— Fremont is ordered Home— Hostile Corres pondence with Col. Mason— Arrested at Fort Leavenworth— Invited to a Public Dinner at St. Louis— Letter declining the Invitation— Arrives at Washington If 9 CHAPTER X.. Fremont arrives at Washington— Demands a Court Martial— niness and Death of his Mother— Court Martial ordered— Its Organization and Progress— Fremont's • Defence— Verdict of the Court^Sentence remitted by the President— Resigns his Commission and retires from the Army, «... CONTENTS. JX CHAPTER XI. Colonel Fremont projects a fourth Exploring Expedition— California Claims Bill- Speeches of Senators Benton, Clarke and Dix — Map and Geographical Memoir Report of Senator Breese— Professor Torrey's Planta Fremontianae— Golden Medal from the King of Prussia— Letter from Humboldt— Founder's Medal from the Royal Geographical Society of London— Letters from John M. Clayton and Abbott Lawrence— Reply of Col. Fremont, . gig CHAPTER XII. Correspondence between Col. Fremont and Captain Charles Wilkes, . . . 8S4 CHAPTER XIII. Fourth Expedition — Encamped In Kansas — Terrible Journey through the Mountains —Frightful Snow Storm — One hundred and twenty Mules frozen to Death in one Night— Starvation of his Comrades — Meets an unexpected Friend — Reaches the Ranche of Kit Carson — Thrilling Letter to his. Wife — Adventure wilh Navahoes Indians, 857 CHAPTER XIV. Fremont settles In Mariposas— Cause of Indian Hostilities — Title to Mariposas — Original Deed of the Estate— Title questioned and resisted by Caleb Cushing— Confirmed bythe U. S. Supreme Court — Opinion of Chief Justice Taney— Receives the appointment of Mexican Boundary Commissioner — His Magnanimity to Colonel Weller— First political Letter — Elected to the United States Senate, . . 879 r CHAPTER XV. Sails for Washington as United States Senator— Takes the Chagres Fever— Letter to the Philadelphia Pacific Railroad Convention, 80S * CHAPTER XVI. Fremont's Caree* as United States Senator — Speech on the Indian Agency Bill — Speech on the Bill making temporary provisions for working the Mines of Cali fornia — Challenges Senator Foote— Foote's Retraction — Fremont's Letter about the Affair, 40S CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVII. Retum to California— Illness— Candidate for re-election to the United States Senate —Goes to Europe— Projects his Fifth andLast Exploring Tour— His Hardships and Triumph — Letter from Parawan — Prairies on Fire — A careless Sentinel — Huerfano Butte— A cheerless Night— Fall of Mules down the Mountains— Threatened by Indians — How they were repelled— Reduced to eat Horse-meat — They swear not to Eat each other— Freezing, Death, and Burial of Fuller— Declines a Public Dinner in San Francisco — Returns to Washington, ....,¦•• * CHAPTER XVIII. Col. Fremont comes to reside In New York — Is talked of for the Presidency — Letter to Gov. Robinson of Kansas — Letter to a Public Meeting in New York upon the Subject of Troubles in Kansas — Is nominated for the Presidency by the National Republican Convention — Letter of Acceptance— Letter accepting the Nomination of the "National Americans," 446 CHAPTER XIX. Conclusion, ...¦•....••.... 461 APPENDIX , . . 467 THE LIFE JOHN CHARLES FREMONT. OHAPTEE I. PAEBNTAGE, BLBTH AND EDUCATION. In the social disruptions of the French He volution, many broken fortunes were replanted in America, and in the words of Chateaubriand, then himself a wanderer in our country, " the names of settlements in the United States became a touching record of the wrecks of European homes." What seemed then only an adverse stroke of fortune to those upon whom it fell, proved the establishment of many prosperous families — the seed scattered by the storm bearing a hundred fold on the rich soil of the New "World. During this time, a passenger ship bound to one of the French "West Indian possessions, was taken by an English man-of-war on the¦• said, there was but one among them who had the face to come forward and avail himself of the permission. I asked him some few questions, in order to expose him to the ridicule of the men, and let him go. The day after our departure, he engaged him self to one of the forts, and set off with a party to the Upper Missouri. "I did not think that the situation of the country justified rne in taking our young companions, Messrs. Brant and Benton, along with us. In case of misfortune, it would have FIRST EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 43 thought, at the least, an act of great imprudence; and, therefore, though reluctantly, I determined to leave them. Randolph had been the life of the camp, and the '¦petit garfon ' was much regretted by the men, to whom his buoyant spirits had afforded great amusement. They all, however, agreed in the propriety of leaving him at the fort, because, as they said, he might cost the lives of some ofthe men in a fight with the Indians. "July 21. — A portion of our baggage, with our field notes and observations, and several instruments, were left at the fort. One of the gentlemen, Mr. Galpin, took charge of a barometer, which he engaged to observe during my absence ; and I entrusted to Randolph, by way of occupation, the regular winding up of two of my chronometers, which were among the instruments left. Our observations showed that the chronometer which I retained for the continuation of our voyage, had preserved its rate in a most satisfactory manner. As deduced from it, the longitude of Fort Laramie is 7 hours 01 minutes 21 seconds, and from lunar dis tance, 1 hours 01 minutes 29 seconds — giving for the adopted longitude 104 degrees 41 minutes 48 seconds. Comparing the barometical observation made during our stay here, with those of Dr. G. Engleman, at St. Louis, we find for the elevation of the fort above the Gulf of Mexico, 4,470 feet. The winter climate here is remarkably mild for the latitude; but rainy weather is frequent, and the place is celebrated for winds, of which the prevailing one is west. An east wind in summer, and a south wind in winter, are said to be always accompanied with rain. " We were ready to depart ; the tents were struck, the mules geared up, and our horses saddled, and we walked up to the fort to take the stirrup-cup with our friends in an excellent home brewed preparation. While thus pleasantly engaged, seated in one of the little cool chambers, at the door of which a man had been stationed to prevent all intrusion from the Indians, a num ber of chiefs, several of them powerful, fine looking men, forced their way into the room in spite of all opposition. Handing rae 44 LIFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN C. FREMONT. the following letter (in French), they took their seats in silence : [translation.] " Fort Platte, July 1, 1842, '' ' Mr. Fkemont : The chiefs, "having assembled in council, have just told me to warn you not to set out before the party of young men which is now out shall have returned. Furthermore, they tell me, that they are very sure they will fire upon you as soon as they meet you. They are expected back in seven or eight days. Excuse me for making these ob servations, but it seems my duty to warn you of danger. Moreover, the chiefs who prohibit your setting out before the return of the fwarrior. are the bearers of this note. "'lam your obedient servant, " ' Joseph Bissonette. " ' By L. B. Chartrain. "'Names of some of tlie Chiefs. — The Otter Hat, the Breaker of Ar rows, the Black Night, the Bull's Tail.' " After reading this, I mentioned its purport to my Compaq ions ; and, seeing that all were fully possessed of its contents, one of the Indians rose up, and, having first shaken hands with me, spoke as follows : " ' You have come among us at a bad time. Some of our peo ple have been killed, and our young men, who are gone to the mountains, are eager to avenge the blood of their relations}; which has been shed by the whites. Our young men are bad, and if they meet you, they will believe that you arc carrying goods and ammunition to their enemies, and will fire upon you. You have told us that this will make war. We know that our great father has many soldiers and. big guns, and we are anxious lo have our lives. We love the whites, and are desirous of peace. Thinking of all these things, we h?ve determined to keep yoii here until our warriors return. We are glad to see you among us. Our father is rich, and we expected that you would have. brought presents to us — horses, guns, and blankets. But we are glad to see you. We look upon your coming as the light which goes before the sun ; for you will tell our great father that you, FIRST EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 45 have seeu us, and that we are naked and poor, and have no- tb: ig to eat ; and he will send us all these things.' " He was followed by the others, to the same effect. " The observations of the savage appeared reasonable ; but I was aware that they had in view only the present object of de taining me, and were unwilling I should go further into the country. In reply, I asked them, through the interpretation of Mr. Boudeau, to select two or three of their number to accom pany us until we should meet their people — they should spread •their robes in my tent and eat at my table, and on our return I would give them presents in reward of their services. They de clined, saying that there were no young men left in the village! and that they were too old to travel so many days on horseback, and preferred now to smoke. their pipes in the lodge, and let the warriors go on the war path. Besides, they had no power over the young men, and were afraid to interfere with them. In my turn I addressed them : " ' You say that you love the whites : why have you killed so many already this spring? You say that you love the whites, and are full of many expressions of friendship to us ; but you are not willing to undergo the fatigue of a few days' ride to save our lives. We do not believe what you have said, and will not listen to you. Whatever a chief among us tells his soldiers to do, Is done. We are the soldiers of the great chief, your father. He has told us to come here and see this country, and all tho Indians, his children. Why should we not go ? Before we came, we heard that you had killed his people, and ceased to be his children ; but we came among you peaceably, holding out our hands. Now we find that the stories we heard are not lies, . and that you are no longer his friends and children. We have thrown away our bodies, and will not turn back. When you told us that your young men would kill us, you did npt know that our hearts were strong, and you did not see the rifles which my youno- men carry in their hands. We are few, and you are many, and may kill us all ; but there will be much crying in 46 LIFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN 0. FREMONT. your villages, for many of your young men will stay behind, and forget to return with your warriors from the mountains. Do you think that our great chief will let his soldiers die, and forget to cover their graves ? Before the snows melt again, his warriors will sweep away your villages as th.6 fire does the prairie in the autumn. See ! I have pulled down my white houses, and my people are ready : when the sun is ten paces higher, we shall be on the march. If you have anything to tell us, you will say it soon.' " I broke up the conference, as I could do nothing with these people ; and, being resolved to proceed, nothing was to be gained by delay. Accompanied by our hospitable friends, we returned to the camp. We had mounted our horses, and our parting salu tations had been exchanged, when one of the chiefs (the Bull's Tail) arrived to tell me that they had determined to send a young man with us ; and if I would point out the place of our evening camp, he should join us there. ' The young man is poor,' said he; ' he has no horse, and expects you to give him one.' I described to him the place where I intended to encamp, and, shaking hands, in a few minutes we were among the hills, and this last habitation of whites shut out from our view." They were not disturbed farther by the Indians in th« prosecution of their journey, but they encountered a more formidable enemy toward the close of the week, in the scarcity of provisions ; a great drought and the grasshoppers having swept the country so, that not a blade of grass was to be seen, nor a buffalo to be found through the whole region. Some Sioux Indians whom they met, stated that their people were nearly starved. to death ; had abandoned their villages, and their reced ' ing tracks might be marked by the carcases of horses strewed along the road, of which they had eaten, or which had died of starvation. Bisonnette advised.: FIRST EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 47 Fremont to return. The latter called up his men, informed' them of what he had heard, and* with that inflexibility of purpose and faith in himself, which always seem in hours of greatest peril to have sus tained him, avowed his fixed determination fo proceed iu*he execution of the enterprise for which he had been commissioned, at the same time giving them to under stand that, in view of the dangers to which they were exposed, it was optional with them to go with him or to return. " Among them," says Fremont, " were some five or six whom I knew would remain. We had still ten days' provisions ; and should no game be found, when this stock was expended, we had our horses, and mules, which we could eat when other means of subsistence failed. But not a man flinched from the undertaking. 'We'll eat the mules,' said Basil Lajeunesse ; and there upon we shook hands with our interpreter and his Indi ans, and parted. Witii them I sent back one of my men, Dumes, whom the effects of an old wound in the leg rendered incapable of continuing the journey on foot, and his horse seemed on the point of giving out. Hav ing resolved to disencumber ourselves immediately ot everything not absolutely necessary to our future opera tions, I turned directly in toward the river, and encamped on the left bank, a little above the place where our councti had been held, and where a thick grove of willows offered a suitable spot for the object I had in view." Mr. Fremont then proceeds as follows : "The carts having been discharged, the covers and wheels were taket off, and, with the frames, carried into some low places among the willows, and concealed in the dense foliage in such a 48 LDJE AND SERVICES OF JOHN C. FREMONT. manner that the glitter of the iron work might not attract the observation of some straggling Indian. Iu the sand, which had been blown up into waves among the willows, a large hole was then dug, ten feet square, and six deep. In the meantime, all our effects had been spread out upon the ground, and whatever was designed to be carried along with us separated and laid asjde, and the remaining part carried to the hole and carefully covered up. As much as possible, all traces of our proceedings were obliterated, and it wanted but a rain to render our cache safe beyond discovery. All the men were now set at work to arrange the pack-saddles and make up the packs. " The day was veiy warm and calm, and the sky entirely clear, except where, as usual along the summits of the mountainous ridge opposite, the clouds had congregated in- masses. Our lodge had been planted, and on account of the heat the ground pins had been taken out, and the lower part slightly raised. Near to it was standing the barometer, which swung in a tripod frame ; and within the • lodge, where a small fire had been built, Mr. Preuss was occupied in observing tho temperature of boiling water. At this instant, and without any warning until it was within fifty yards, a violent gust of wind dashed down the lodge, burying under it Mr. Preuss and about a dozen men, who had attempted to keep it from being carried away. I succeeded in saving tho barometer, which the lodge was carrying off with itself, but the thermometer was broken. We had no others of a high graduation, none of those which remained going higher than 130° Fahrenheit. Our astronomi cal observations gave to this place, which we named Cache camp, a longitude of 106° 38' 26", latitude 42° 50' 53"." The care with which Mr. Fremont records the pre» '•; servation of this barometer lends interest to hisj subsequent account of its destruction and the ingenuity" with which he repaired its loss. In crossing the New Fork of Green river about a week after the events last | FHK.MUXT PLANTS TUK AMhKICAN H.AG ON THK HUJHKST I'KAK (if 'INK KOCKY MOUNTAINS, FIRST EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 49 described, the current was very swift, and he accident ally broke it. It was the only barometer he had been able to preserve up to that point in his journey, and in recording the calamity in his journal, he adds : " A great part of the interest of the journey for me was in the exploration of these mountains, of which so much had been said that was doubtful and contradictory ; and now their snowy peaks rose majestically before me, and the only means of giving them authentically to science, the object of my anxious solici tude by night and day, was destroyed. We had brought this barometer in safety a thousand miles, and broke* it almost among the snow of the mountains. The. loss was felt by the whole camp— all had seen my anxiety, and aided me in preserv ing it. The height of these mountains, ¦considered by the hunters and traders the highest in the whole range, had been a theme of constant discussion among them ; and all had looked forward with pleasure to the moment when the instrument, which they believed to be true as the sun, should stand upon the summits, and deeide their disputes. Their grief was only inferior to my own." The skill and patience exhibited by him in repairing his loss illustrates one of the most characteristic and remarkable traits of Mr. Fremont's character — his fer tility of resource and his habitual- self-reliance. The incident cannot be better described than in his own words. "As soon as the camp was formed," he says, "I set about endeavoring to repair my barometer. As I have already said, this was a standard cistern barometer, of Troughton's construc tion. The, glass cistern had been broken about midway ; but as the instrument had been kept in a proper position, no air had 3 5C LIFE AND SERVICES QF JOHN 0. FREMONT. found its way into the tube, the end of which had always remained covered. I had with me a number of vials of toler ably thick glass, some of which were of the same diameter &k the cistern, and I spent the day in slowly working on these, endeavoring to cut them of the requisite length ; but, as mj instrument was a very rough file, I invariably broke them. A groove was cut in one of the trees, where the barometer wag. placed during the night, to be out of the way of any possible danger, "and in the morning I commenced again. Among tho powder horns in the camp, I found one which was very trans parent, so that its contents could be almost as plainly seen as through glass. This I boiled and stretched on a piece of wood to the requisite diameter, and scraped it very thin, in order to increase to the utmost its transparency. I then secured it firmly in its place on* the instrument, with strong glue made from a buffalo, and filled it with mercury, properly heated. A piece of skin, which had covered one of the vials, furnished a good , pocket, which was well secured with strong thread and glue, and then the brass cover was screwed to its place. The instrument was left some time to dry ; and when I reversed it, a few hours after, I had the satisfaction to find it in perfect order ; its indica tions being about the same as on the other side of the lake before it had been broken. Our success in this little incident diffused :. pleasure throughout the camp ; and we immediately set about our preparations for ascending the mountains." The great achievement of this expedition, however, and one of the greatest ever accomplished by any traveller in any age, all the circumstances considered, was the;- ascent of the Wind Eiver peak of the Kocky Mountains, the highest peak of that vast chain, and one whieh was probably never trod before by any mortal foot. The t simplicity of Mr. Fremont's account of this day's jouiv«j Dey befits the sublimity of the events he records. His FD3ST EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 51 companions in the ascent were Mr. Preuss, Basil Lajeu- nesse, Clement Lambert, Janisse and Descoteaux. We can add nothing to the interest or impressiveness of the narrative. "When we had secured strength for the day (15 Aug.) by a hearty breakfast, we- covered what remained, which was enough for one meal, with rocks, in order that it might be safe from any marauding bird ; and saddling our mules, turned our faces once more towards the peaks. This time we determined to pro ceed quietly and cautiously, deliberately resolved to accomplish our object if it were within the compass of human means. We were of opinion that a long defile which lay to the left of yesterday's route would lead us to the foot of the main peak. Our mules had been refreshed by the fine grass in the little ravine at the Island camp, and we intended to ride up the defile as far as pos sible, in order to husband our strength for the main ascent. Though this was a fine passage, still it was a defile of the most rugged mountains known, and we had many a rough and steep slippery place to cross before reaching the end. In this place the sun rarely shone ; snow lay along the border of the small stream which flowed through it, and occasional icy passages made the footing of the mules very insecure, and the rocks and ground ¦ were moist with the trickling waters in this spring of mighty rivers. We soon had the satisfaction to find ourselves riding along the huge wall which forms the central summits of the chain. There at last it rose by our sides, a nearly perpendicular wall of granite, terminating 2,000 to 3,000 feet above our heads in a serrated line of broken, jagged cones. We rode on until we came almost immediately below the main peak, which I 'denomi nated the Snow Peak, as it exhibited more snow to the eye than any of the neighboring summits. Here were three small lakes of a green color, each of perhaps a thousand yards in dia- . meter, and apparently very deep. These lay in a kind of chasm ; .and, according to the barometer, we had attained but a few hun- 52 LIFE AND. SERVICES OF JOHN C. FREMONT. dred feet above the Island lake. The barometer here stood a 20-450, attached thermometer 10°. " We managed to get our mules up to a little bench about a hundred feet above the lakes, and turned them loose to graze. During our rough ride to this place, they had ¦ exhibited a won derful surefootedness. Parts of the defile were filled with angu lar, sharp fragments of rock, three or four and eight or ten feet cubic; and among these they had worked their way leaping from one narrow point to another, rarely making a false step, and giving us no occasion to dismount. Having divested our selves of every unnecessary encumbrance, we commenced the ascent. This time, like experienced travellers, we did not press ourselves, but climbed leisurely, sitting down so soon as we found breath beginning to fail. At intervals we reached places where a number of springs gushed from the rocks, and about 1,800 feet above the lakes came to the snow line. From this point our progress was uninterrupted climbing. Hitherto I had worn a pair of thick moccasins, with soles of parfleche, but here I put on " a light thin pair, which I had brought for the purpose, as now the use of our toes became necessary to a further advance. I availed myself of a sort of comb of the mountain, which stood against the wall like a buttress, and which the wind and the solar radiation, joined. to the steepness of the smooth rock, had kept almost entirely free from snow. Up this I made my way rapidly. Our cautious method of advancing in the outset had spared my strength ; and with the exception of a slight disposition to head ache, I felt no remains of yesterday's illness. In a few minutes we reached a point where the buttress was overhanging, and there was no other way of surmounting the difficulty than by passing around one side of it, which was the face of a vertical precipice of several hundred feet. " Putting hands and feet in the crevices between the blocks, I succeeded in getting over it, and, when I reached the top, found| my companions in a small valley below. Descending to them, < we continued climbing, and in a short time reached the crest FIRST EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 53 I sprang upon the summit, and another step would have precipi tated me into an immense snow-field five hundred' feet below- To the edge of this field was a sheer icy precipice ; and then, with a gradual fall, the field sloped off for about a mile, until it struck the foot of another lower ridge. I stood on a narrow crest about three feet in width, with an inclination of about 20° N. 51° E. As soon as I had gratified the first feeling of curiosity, I descended, and each 'man ascended in his turn ; for I would only allow one at a time to mount the unstable and precarious slab, which it. seemed a breath would hurl into the abyss below. We mounted the barometer in the snow of the summit, and fixing a ramrod in a crevice, unfurled the national flag to wave in the breeze where never flag waved before. During our morning's ascent, we had met no sign of animal life, except the small spar row-like bird already mentioned. A stillness the most profound and a terrible solitude forced themselves constantly on the mind as the great features of the place. Here, on the summit, where the stillness was absolute, unbroken by any sound, and the solitude complete, we thought ourselves beyond the region of animated life ; but while we were sitting on the rock, a solitary bee (bromus, the humble bee) came winging his flight from the eastern valley, lit on the knee of one of the men. " It was a strange place, the icy rock and the highest peak of the Rocky Mountains, for a lover of warm sunshine and flowers ; and we pleased ourselves with the idea that he was the first of his species to cross the mountain barrier — a solitary pioneer to foretell the advance of civilization. I believe that a moment's thought would have made us let him continue his way unharmed ; but we carried out the law of this country, where all animated nature seems at war ; and seizing him immediately, put him in at least a fit place— in the leaves of a large book, among the flowers we had collected on our way. The barometer stood at 18-293, the attached thermometer at 44°; giving for the eleva tion of this summit 13,570 feet above the Gulf of Mexico, which may be called the highest flight of the bee. It is certainly the 54 LIFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN C. FREMONT. highest known flight of that insect* From the description given by Mackenzie of the mountains where he crossed them, with that of a French officer still farther to the north, and Col. * The encounter of Col. Fremont with this solitary pioneer of human civilization upon the summit of the highest peak of the Eocky Mountains, is a curious commentary upon the familiar lines which concludes Bryant's poem of the Prairfes, and which will already have occurred to many of our readers upon the perusal of the affecting incident so gracefully recorded by CoL Fremont. * * * * " The bee, A colonist more adventurous than man, With whom he came across the Eastern deep — Fills the savannas with his murmurings, And hides his sweets, as in the Golden Age, Within the hoUow oak. I listen long To his domestic hum, and think I hear The sound of that advancing multitude Which soon shall fill these deserts. Prom the ground Comet" up the laugh of children, the soft voice Of maidens, and the sweet and solemn hymn Of Sabbath worshippers. The low of herds Blends with the rustling of the heavy grain Over the dark-brown furrows. All at once, A fresher wind sweeps, by, and breaks my dream, And I am in the wilderness alone: "Fremont, in the expedition which he made between the years 1842 and 1844, at the command of the United States government, discovered and measured barometrically the highest peak of the whole chain of the Eocky Mountains to the north-northwest of. Spanish, James', Long's, and Laramie's Peaks. This snow-covered summit, which belongs to the group of the Wind Eiver Mountains, bears the name of Fremont's Peak, on the great chart published under the direction of Colonel Abert, chief of the topographical department at Washington. This point is situated in the parallel of 43°10' north latitude, and 110° 7' west longitude, and, therefore, nearly 5° 30' north of Spanish Peak, which, according to direct measurement, is 13,668 feet, must, therefore, exceed by 2,072 feet that given by Long to James' Peak, which would appear, from its position, to be identical with Pike's Peak, as given in the map above .referred to. The Wind Eiver Mountains constitute the dividing ridge (divortia aquarum) between the two seas. ******** " To the surprise of the adventurous travellers, the summit of Fremont's FIRST EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 55 Long's measurements to the south, joined to the opinion of the oldest traders of the countiy, it is presumed that this h the highest peak of the Rocky Mountains. The day was sunny and Peak was found to be visited by bees. It is probable that these insects, like the butterflies which I found at far higher elevations in the chain of the Andes, and also within the limits of perpetual snows, had been involuntarily drawn thither by ascending currents of air. I have even seen large-winged lepidoptera, which had been carried far out to sea by land winds, drop on the ship's deck, at a considerable distance from the land, in the South Sea. "Fremont's map and geographical researches embrace the immense tract of land extending from the confluence of Kansas Eiver with the Missouri, to the cataracts of the Columbia, and the Missions of Santa Barbara, and the Pueblo de los Angelos, in New California, presenting a space amounting to 28 degrees of longitude (about 1360 miles) between the 34th and 45th parallels of north latitude. Four hundred points have been hypsometrically determined by barometrical measurements, and for the most part, astronomically ; so that it has been rendered possible to delineate the profile above the sea's level, of a tract of land measuring 3,600 miles, with all its inflections, extending from the north of Kansas to Fort Vancouver, and to the coasts of the South Sea (almost 720 miles more than the distance from Madrid to Tobolsk), As I believe I was the first who attempted to represent, in geognostic profile, the configura tion of Mexico and the Cordilleras of South America (for the half-per spective projections of the Siberian traveller, the Abbe Chappe*, were based on mere, and, for the most part, on very inaccurate estimates of the falls of rivers) ; it has afforded me special satisfaction to there find -,he graphical method of representing the earth's configuration in a ver tical direction, that is, the elevation of solid over fluid parts, achieved on so vast a scale. In the mean. Jatitudes of 37° to 43°, the Eocky Moun tains present, besides the great snow-crowned summits, whose height may, be compared to that of the Peak of Tcneriffe, elevated plateaux of an extent scarcely to be met with in any other part of the world, and whose breadth from east to west is almost 'twice that of the Mexican highlands. From the range of the mountains which begin a little west ward to Fort Laramie, to the further side of the Wahsatch Mountains, the elevation of the soil is uninterruptedly maintained from five to upwards of '.even thousand feet above the sea level; nay, this elevated portion - Chappe d'Auteroche : Voyage en SiterieJaM m 1761. 4 vols., 4to., Paris, 176S. 56 LIFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN C. FRKMONT. bright, but a slight shining mist hung over the lower plains, which interfered w'th our view of the surrounding country. On one side we overlooked innumerable lakes and streams, the spring of the Colorado of the Gulf of California ; and on the other was the Wind River valley, where were the heads of the Yellow stone branch of the Missouri ; far to the north, we just could discover the snowy heads of the Trois Tetons, where were the source ofthe Missouri and Columbia rivers; and at the southern extremity of the ridge, the peaks were plainly visible, among which were some of the springs of the Nebraska or Platte River. Around us, the whole scene had one main striking feature, which was that of terrible cc-mBilsiq^r^Parallel to its- length, the ridge was split into chasms -arid ifis'sores ; between which rose the thin lofty walls, terminated with slender minarets and columns. According to the barometer, the little crest of the wall on which we stood was three thousand five hundred and seventy feet above that place, and two thousand seven hundred and eighty above the little lakes at the bottom, immediately at our feet. Our camp at the Two Hills (an astronomical station) bore south 3° east, which, with a bearing afterward obtained from a fixed position, enabled us to locate the peak. The bearing of the Trois Tetons was north 50° west, and the direction of the cen tral ridge of the Wind River mountains south 39° east. occupies the whole space between the true Eocky Mountains and the Californian snowy coast range from 34° to 45° north latitude. This district, which is a kind of broad longitudinal valley, like that of the Lake Titicaca, has been named the Great Basin, by Joseph Walker and Captain Fremont, travellers well acquainted with those western regions. It is a terra incognita of at least 8,000 geographical (or 128,000 Enghsh) square miles, and almost uninhabited, and full of salt lakes, the largest of which 'is 3,940 Parisian (or 4,200 English) feet above the level of the sea, and is connected with the narrow Lake Utah,* into whieh ' Bock Eiver' (Timpan Ogo, in the Utah language) pours its copious stream."— Hum boldt's Aspects of Nature. Pp. 32-3-4. •Fremont : Report 0/ the JSxplvrimg Expedition, pp. 164 and 2T3— 2TS. • FIRST EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 57 " The summit rock was gneiss, succeeded by sienitic gneiss. Sienite and feldspar succeeded in our descent to the snow line where we found a feldspathic granite. I had remarked that the noise produced by the explosion of our pistols had the usual degree of loudness, but was not in the least prolonged, expiring almost instantaneously. Having now made what observations our means afforded, we proceeded to descend. We had accomplished an objeet of laudable ambition, and beyond the strict order of our instructions. We had climbed the loftiest peak of the Rocky Mountains, and looked down upon the snow a thousand feet below, and, standing where never human foot had stood before, felt the exultation of first explorers. It was about two o'clock when we left the summit; and when we .reached the bottom, the sun had already sunk behind the wall and the day was drawing to a close. It would have been pleasant to have lingered here and on the summit longer ; but we hurried away as rapidly as the ground would permit, for it was an object to regain our party as soon as possible, not knowing what accident the next hour might bring forth. " We reached our deposit of provisions at nightfall. Here was not the inn which awaits the tired traveller on his return from Mont Blanc, or the orange groves of South America, with their refreshing juices and soft fragrant air; but we found our little 'cache of dried meat and coffee undisturbed. Though the moon was bright, the road was full of precipices, and the fatigue of the day had been great. We therefore abandoned the idea of rejoining our friends, and lay down on the rock, and in spite of the cold, slept soundly." On the following day, the 17th of August, oame the welcome order to turn their faces homeward, and on the 22d they reached the encampment of their party at Rock Independence. Here a little incident occurred which shows that amid the manifold trials and dangers through which Fremont had passed, he had not forgotten ' " . 3* 58 LIFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN 0. FREMONT. the protecting arm which had always been near to sup port and defend him. We quote again from his journal : "23d. — Yesterday evening we reached our encampment at Rock Independence, where I took some astronomical observations. Here, not unmindful of the custom of early travellers and ex plorers in our country, I engraved on that rock of the Far West a symbol of the Christian faith. Among the thickly inscribed names, I made on the hard granite the impression of a large cross, which I covered with a black preparation of India rubber, well calculated to resist the influence of wind and rain. It stands amidst the names of many who have long since found their way to the grave, and for whom the huge rock is a giant tombstone. " One George Weymouth was sent out to Maine by the Earl of Southampton, Lord Arundel, and others ; and in the narra tive of his discoveries, he says: 'The next day we ascended in our pinnace that part of the river which lies more to the west ward, carrying with us a cross — a thing never omitted by any Christian traveller — which we erected at the ultimate end of our route.' This was in the year 1605 : and in 1842 I obeyed the feeling of early travellers and left the impression of the cross deeply engraved on a vast rock, one thousand miles beyond the Mississippi, to which the discoverers have given the national name of Rock Independence." With his brief but thrilling account of an attempt to visit Goat Island, in the Platte Eiver, by which he was nearly losing many of the most important results of his expedition, as well as his life, we will close our extracts from his journal : * " August 24th.— We started before sunrise, intending to break fast at Goat Island. Mr. Preuss accompanied me, and with us were five of our best men. Here appeared no scarcity of water, and we took on board, with various instruments and baggage,. FTRST EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 59 provisions for ten or twelve days. We paddled down the river rapidly, for our little craft was light as a duck on the water ; and the sun had been some time risen, when we heard before us a hollow roar, which we supposed to be that of a fall, of which we had heard a vague .rumor, but whose exact locality no one had been able to describe to us. We were approaching a ridge, through which the river passes by a place called ' canon' (pro nounced canyon), a Spanish word, signifying a piece of artillery, the barrel of a gun, or any kind of tube ; and which, in this country, has been adopted to describe the passage of a river between perpendicular rocks of great height, which frequently approach each other so closely overhead as to form a kind of tunnel over the stream, which foams along below, half choked up by fallen fragments. " We passed three cataracts in succession, where perhaps one hundred feet of smooth water intervened ; and finally with a shout of pleasure at our success, issued from our tunnel into open day beyond. We were so delighted with the performance of our boat, and so confident in her powers, that we would not have hesitated to leap a fall of ten feet with her. We put to shore for breakfast at some willows on the right bank, immediately below the mouth of the canon ; for it was now 8 o'clock, and we had been working since daylight, and were all wet, fatigued and hungry. " We re-embarked at 9 o'clock, and in about twenty minutes reached the next canon. Landing on a rocky shore at its com mencement, we ascended the ridge to reconnoitre. Portage was out of the question. So far as we could see, the jagged rocks pointed out the course of the canon, on a wending line of seven or eight miles. It was simply a narrow, dark chasm in the rock; and here the perpendicular faces were much higher than in the previous pass, being at this end two to three hundred, and further down, as we afterwards ascertained, five hundred feet in vertical heio-h't. Our previous success had made us boH, and we deter mined ao-ain to run the canon. Every thir. was secured as (W LIFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN C. FREMONT. firmly as possible ; and having divested ourselves of the greater part of our clothing, we pushed into the stream. To save our chronometer from accident, Mr. Preuss took it and attempted to proceed along the shore on the masses of rock, which in places were piled up on either side ; but, after he- had walked about five minutes, everything like shore disappeared, and the vertical wall came squarely down into the water. He therefore waited until we came up. An ugly pass lay before us. We had made fast to the stern of the boat a strong rope about fifty feet long ; and three of the men clambered along among the "rocks, and with this rope let her down slowly through the pass. In several places high rocks lay scattered about in the channel ; and in the narrows it required all our strength and skill to avoid staving the boat on the sharp points. In one of these, the boat proved a little too broad, and stuck fast for an instant, while the water flew over us ; fortunately it was but for an instant, as our united strength forced her immediately through. The water swept overboard only a sextant and pair of saddle-bags. I caught the sextant as it passed by me, but the saddle-bags became the prey of the whirlpools. We reached the place where Mr. Preuss was standing, took him on board, and, with the aid of the boat, put the men with the rope on the succeeding pile of rocks. We found this passage much worse thaii the previous one, and our position was rather a bad one. To go back was impossible; before us the cataract was a sheet of foam ; and shut up in the chasm by the rocks, which, in some places, seemed almost to meet overhead, the roar of water was deafening. We pushed off again ; but, after making a little distance, the force of the cur rent became too great for the men on shore, and two of them let go the rope. Lajeunesse, the third man, hung on, and was jerked headforemost into the river from a rock about twelve feet high ; and down the boat shot like an arrow, Basil following us in the rapid current, and exerting all his strength to keep in mid- channel — -his head only seen occasionally like a black spot in the white foam. How far he went, I do not exactly know ; but FIRST EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 61 ¦we succeeded iu turning the boat into an eddy below. "Crii Dieu,' said Basil Lajeunesse, as he arrived immediately after us, ' Je crois bien que fai nage un demi mile? He had owed his life to his- skill as a swimmer, and I determined to take him and the two others on board, and trust to skill and fortune to reach the other end in safety. We placed ourselves on our knees, with Jhe short paddles in our hands, the most skillful boatman being at the bow ; and again we commenced our rapid descent. " We cleared rock after rock, and shot past fall after fall, our little boat seeming to play with the cataract. We became flushed with success, and familiar with the danger ; and, yielding to the excitement ofthe occasion, broke forth together into a Canadian boat song. Singing, or rather shouting, we dashed along ; and were, I believe, in the midst of the chorus, when the boat struck a concealed rock immediately at the foot of a fall, which whirled her over in an instant. Three of my men could not swim, and my first feeling was to assist them, and save some of our effects ; but a sharp concussion or two convinced me that I had not yet saved myselft A few strokes brought me into an eddy, and I landed on a pile of rocks on the left side. Looking around, I saw that Mr. Preuss had gained the shore on the same side, about twenty yards below ; and a little climbing and swimming soon brought him to my side. On the opposite side, against the wall, lay the boat, bottom up ; and Lambert was in the act of saving Descoteaux, whom he had grasped by the hair, and who could not swim ; 'Lache pas' said he, as I afterwards learned, ' lache pas, cher frere? ' Cravns pas,' was the reply, ' Je m'en vais rnourir avant que de te lacher.' Such was the reply of courage and generosity in the dainger. For a hundred yards below the current was covered with floating books and boxes, bales and blankets, and scattered articles of clothing ; and so strong and boiling was the stream, that even our heavy instruments, which were all in cases, kept on the surface, and the sextant, circle and the long black box of the telescope, were in view at once. For a moment I was somewhat disheartened. All our books, almost every record 62 LDJE AND SERVICES OF JOHN O. FREMONT. -of the journey, our journals and registers of astronomical and barometrical observations, had been lost in 'a moment. But it was no time to indulge in regrets ; and I immediately set about endeavoring to save something from the wreck. Making our selves understood as well as possible by signs (for nothing could be heard in the roar of waters), we commenced our operations. Of everything on board, the only article that had been saved was my double-barreled gun, which Descoteaux had caught, and clung to with drowning tenacity. The men continued down the river on the left bank. Mr. Preuss and myself descended ou the side we were, on ; and Lajeunesse, with a paddle in his hand, jumped on the boat alone, and continued down the canon. ' She was now light, and cleared every bad place with much less difficulty. In a short time he was joined by Lambert, and the search was continued for about a mile and a half, which was as far as the boat could proceed in the pass. "Here the walls were about five hundred feet high, and the fragments of rocks from- above had choked the river into a hol low pass, but one or two feet above the surface. Through this and the interstices of the rock, the water found its way. Fa vored beyond our expectations, all of our registers had been recovered,, with the exception of one of my journals, which con tained the notes and incidents of travel, and topographical descriptions, a number of scattered astronomical observations, principally meridian altitudes of the sun, and our barometrical register west of Laramie. Fortunately, our other journals con tained duplicates of the most important barometrical observa tions which had been taken in the mountains. These, with a few scattered notes, were all that had been preserved of our me teorological observations. In addition to these, we saved the circle ; and these, with a few blankets, constituted everything that had been rescued from the waters. " The day was running rapidly away, and it was necessary to reach Goat Island, whither the party had preceded us, before night. In this uncertain country, the traveller is so much in the FIRST EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 63 power of chance, that we became somewhat uneasy in regard'to them. Should anything have occurred in the brief interval of our separation, to prevent our rejoining them, our situation would .be rather a desperate one. We had not a morsel of provisions — our arms and ammunition were gone — and were entirely at the mercy of any straggling party of savages, and not a little in danger of starvation. We therefore set out at once in two par ties. Mr. Preuss and myself on the left, and the men on the opposite side of the river. Climbing out of the canon, we found ourselves in a very broken country, where we were not yet able to recognize any locality. In the course of our descent through the canon, the rock, which at the upper end was of the decom posing granite, changed into a varied sandstone formation. The hills and points of the ridges were covered with fragments of a yellow sandstone, of which the strata were sometimes displayed in the broken ravines which interrupted our course, and made our walk extremely fatiguing. At one point of the canon tho red argillaceous sandstone rose in a wall of five hundred feet, surmounted by a stratum of white sandstone ; and in an opposite ravine a column of red sandstone rose, in form like a steeple, about one hundred and fifty feet high. The scenery was extremely picturesque, and notwithstanding our forlorn condition, we were frequently obliged to stop and admire it. Our progress was not very rapid. We had emerged from the water half naked, and, on arriving at the top of the precipice, I found myself with only one moccasin. The fragments of rock made walking painful, and I was "frequently obliged to stop, and pull out the thorns of the cactus, here the prevailing plant, and with which a few minutes' walk covered the bottom of my feet. From this ridge, the river emerged into a smiling prairie, and descend ing to the bank for water, we were joined by Benoist. The rest of the party were out of sight, having taken a more inland route. We crossed the river repeatedly — sometimes able to ford it, and sometimes swimming — climbed over the ridges of two more canons, and towards evening reached the cut, which we here CA LIFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN C. FREMONT. named the Hot Spring gate. On our previous visit in July, we had not entered this pass, reserving it for our descent in the boat ; and when we entered it this evening, Mr. Preuss was a few hundred feet in advance. Heated with the long march, he came suddenly upon a fine bold spring gushing from the rock, about ten feet above the river. Eager to enjoy the crystal water, he threw himself down for a hasty draught, and took a mouthful of water almost boiling hot. He said nothing to Benoist, who laid himself down to drink : but the steam from the water arrested his eagerness, and he escaped the hot draught. We had no ther mometer, to ascertain the temperature, but I could hold my hand in the water just long enough to count two seconds. There -are eight or ten of these springs discharging themselves by streams large enough to be called runs. A loud hollow noise was heard from the rock, which I suppose to be produced by the fall of the water. The strata immediately where the issue is a fine white and calcareous sandstone, covered with an incrusta tion of common salt. Leaving this Thermopylae of the West, in a short walk we reached the red ridge which has been described as lying just above Goat Island. Ascending this, we found some fresh tracks and a button, which showed that the other men had already arrived. A shout from the man who had firet reached the top of the ridge, responded to from below, informed us that our friends were all on the island ; and we were soon among them. We found some pieces of buffalo standing around the fire for us, and managed to get some dry clothes among th« people. 4A sudden storm of rain drove us into the best shelter we could find, where we slept soundly, after one of the most fatiguing days I have ever experienced." On the 17th of October, Colonel Fremont was at St. Louis, and on the 29th in Washington. His report was completed and in the hands of the War Department before the winter was over. It was called for by the Senate, and when reported, Dr. Linn, then one of the FIRST EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 65 senators from the State of Missouri, accompanied a motion to print extra copies with some complimentary remarks, which we give as reported in the Congressional Globe of that date : " In support of his motion," Mr. L. said, " that in the course of the last summer a very interesting expedition had been un dertaken to the Rocky Mountains, ordered by Colonel Abert, chief of the Topographical Bureau, with the sanction of the Secretary of War, and executed by Lieut. Fremont of the Topographical Engineers. The object of the expedition was to examine and report upon the rivers and country between the frontiers of Missouri and the basis of the Rocky Mountains ; and especially to examine the character, and ascertain the latitude and longitude of the South Pass, the great crossing place to these mountains on the way to the Oregon. All the objects of the expedition have been accomplished, and in a way to be bene ficial to science and instructive to the general reader, as well as useful to the government. "Supplied with the best astronomical and barometrical instru-. nients, well qualified to use them, and accompanied by twenty- five voyageurs, enlisted for the purpose at St. Louis, and trained to all the hardships and dangers of the prairies and the moun tains, Mr. Fremont left the mouth ofthe Kansas, on the frontiers of Missouri, on the 10th of June; and, in the almost incredibly short space of four months, returned to the same point, without an accident to a man, and with a vast mass of useful observa tions, and many hundred specimens in botany and geology. -" In executing his instructions, Mr. Fremont proceeded up the Kansas River far enough to ascertain its character, and then crossed over to the Great Platte, and pursued that river to its source in the mountains, where the Sweet Water (a head branch of the Platte), issues from the neighborhood of the South Pass. He reached this Pass on the 8th of August, and describes it as a wide and low depression of the mountains, where the ascent is as 66 LIFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN C. FREMONT. easy as that of the hill on which this Capitol stands, and where a plainly-beaten wagon road leads to the Oregon, through the valley of Lewis's River, a fork of the Columbia. He went through the pass, and saw the head waters of the Colorado, of the Gulf of California; and leaving the valleys to indulge a laudable curiosity, and to make some useful observations, and attended by four of his men, he climbed the loftiest peak of the Rocky Mountains, until then untrodden by any known human being ; and, on the 15th of August, looked down upon ice and snow some thousand feet below, and traced in the distance the valleys of the rivers which, taking their rise in the same elevated ridge, flow in opposite directions to the Pacific Ocean and to the Mississippi. From that ultimate point he returned by the valley of the Great Platte, following the stream in its whole course, and solving all questions in relation to its navigability, and the character ofthe country through which it flows. " Over the whole course of this extended route, barometrical observations were made by Mr. Fremont, to ascertain elevations both of the plains and of the mountains ; astronomical observa tions we'c liikeu to ascertain latitudes and longitudes; the face of the country was marked as arable or sterile ; the facility of travelling, and the practicability of routes noted ; the grand features of nature described, and some presented in drawings; military positions indicated ; and a large contribution to geology and botany was. made in the varieties of plants, flowers, shrubs, trees, and grasses, and rocks and earths, which were enumerated. Drawings of some grand and striking points, and a map. of the whole route, illustrate the report, and facilitate the understand ing of its details. Eight carts drawn by two mules each accom panied the expedition ; a fact which attests the facilitv of travel ling in this vast region. Herds of buffaloes furnished subsistence to the men ; a short, nutritious grass, sustained the horses and mules. _Two boys (one of twelve years of age, the other of eighteen), besides the enlisted men, accompanied the expedition, and took their share of its hardships ; which proves that boys; FIRST EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 67 as well as men, are able to traverse the country to the Rocky Mountains. " The result of all his observations Mr. Fremont had condensed into a brief report — enough to make a document of ninety or one hundred pages ; and believing that this document would be of general enterest to the whole country, and beneficial to science, as well as useful to tbe government, I move the printing of the extra number which has been named. " In making this motion, and in bringing this report to the notice of the Senate, I take a great pleasure in noticing the activity and importance of the Topographical Bureau. Under its skillful and vigilant heai [Colonel Abert] nurnerous valuable and incessant surveys are made ; and a mass of information collected of the highest importance to the countiy generally, as well as to the military branch of the public service. This report proves conclusively that the country, for several hundred miles from the frontier of Missouri, is exceedingly beautiful and fertile ; alternate woodland and prairie, and certain portions well supplied with water. . It also proves that the valley of the river Platte has a very rich soil, affording great facilities for emigrants to the west of the Rocky Mountains." The London .Athenceum, of March, 1844, commences a review of this report in the following complimentary terms, which we quote to show the impression it pro duced in the literary circles of the old world : "The government of the United States did well when in furtherance of the resolution .to survey the road across the Great Western Prairie and the Rocky Mountains to the Oregon terri tory, it selected Lieut. Fremont for the execution of the work. We have rarely met with a production so perfect in its kind as the unpretending pamphlet containing this report. The narrative, clear, full and lively, occupies only 76 pages, to which are appended 130 pages, filled with the results of botanical researches, 68 LTFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN 0. FREMONT. of astronomical and meteorologiacal observations. What a con trast does this present to- the voluminous emptiness and con ceited rhodomontade so often brought forth by our costly expeditions. The country gone over by Lieut Fremont is cer tainly not the most interesting in the world, nor is it quite new. Yet he is evidently not the man to travel 2,000 miles without observing much which is worthy of being recorded or to write a page which is likely to prove tedious in the reading. His points of view are so well chosen, his delineation has so much truth and spirit, and his general remarks are so accurate and compre hensive, that under his guidance we find the far west prairies nearly as fresh and tempting as the most favored Arcadian scenes, the hallowed groves of which were never trodden by the foot of squatting emigrant or fur trader." SECOND EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 69 CHAPTEK IV. SECOND EXPLORING EXPEDITION KIT CARSON MRS. FRE MONT WITHHOLDS ORDERS FROM THE WAR* DEPARTMENT COLONEL BENTON'S ACCOUNT OF THE EXPEDITION DIS COVERS THE INLAND SEA PERILOUS VOYAGE TO ITS ISLANDS IN A LINEN BOAT ARRIVES AT FORT VANCOUVER AND FULFILLS THE INSTRUCTIONS OF HIS GOVERNMENT. The results of Col. Fremont's first expedition were so unexpected, and his success altogether so extraordi nary, that his government took no time to deliberate upon the propriety of sending him again into a field of duty, where he made the department of the public ser vice, with which he was connected, appear to so much advantage. He had scarcely seen his maps and report through the press, before he embarked on a second expe dition, from the same point on the frontier, but with purposes even more comprehensive than those with which'he set out in 1842. He was instructed to connect the exploration with the surveys of the Pacific coast, by Captain Wilkes, who had commanded the South Sea Exploring Expedition, so as to give a connected survey of the interior of our continent. His party consisted principally of Creole and Canadian French and Americans, amounting in all 70 LIFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN C. FREMONT. to 39 men ; among whom were several who accompa nied him in his first expedition. Mr. Thomas Fitzpatrick, - whom many years of hardship and exposure in -the western territories, had rendered familiar with a portion of the country it was designed to explore, had been selected as his guide, and Mr. Charles Preuss, who had been his assistant in the previous journey, was again associated with him in the same capacity. In compliance with directions from the War Depart ment, Mr. Theodore Talbot, of Washington city, was attached to the party, with a view to advancement in his profession ; and at St. Louis he was joined by Mr. Frederick Dwight, a gentleman of Springfield, Massa chusetts, who availed himself of this escort, to visit the Sandwich Islands and China, by way of Fort Vancouver. The men engaged for the service were : Alexis Ayot, Francois Badeau, Oliver Beaulieu, Baptiste Bernier, John A. Campbell, John G. Campbell, Manuel Chap man, Hansom Clark, Philibert Courteau, Michel Crelis,' William Creuss, Clinton Deforest, Baptiste Derosier, Basil Lajeunesse, Francois Lajeunesse, Henry Lee, Louis Menard, Louis Montreuil, Samuel Neal, Alexis Pera, Francois Pera, James Power, Kaphael Proue, Oscar Sarpy, Baptiste Tabeau, Charles Taplin, Baptiste Tesson, Auguste Vasquez, Joseph Verrot, Patrick White, Tiery Wright, Louis Zindel, and Jacob Dodson, a free young colored man of Washington city, who volunteered to accompany the expedition. Two Delaware Indians were engaged to accompany the expedition as hunters. L. Maxwell, who had accompanied the expedition as one of the hunters in 1842, being on his way to Taos,"; in New Mexico, also joined him. He was subsequently joined by his invaluable friend, Kit Carson, whom he SECOND EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 71 was so fortunate as to fall in with on the confines of New Mexico.* Tlje party was armed generally with Hall's carbines, which, with a brass 12-lb. howitzer, had been furnished to * As Kit Carsen figures somewhat extensively in the reports of Col. Fremont, to whom he proved of incalculable service in each of his seve ral exploring expeditions, we submit the following sketch of his life gathered mainly from his own lips. Christopher Carson was born in Kentucky in the year 1810 or 1811 ; 'lis father having been one of the early settlers, and also a noted hunter md Indian fighter. In the year following Kit's birth the family moved to ihe territory of Missouri. On this frontier, bred to border life, he remained to the age of fifteen, when he joined a trading party to Santa Fe. In stead of returning, Kit found his way by various adventures south, through New Mexico to the Copper mines of Chihuahua, where he passed nine months as a teamster. When about seventeen he made his first expedition as a trapper on the Eio Colorado of California. The enterprise was successful, though attended with considerable dangers, the Mexicans being even at that early, day very jealous of American enterprise. He made good his return to Tao in New Mexico, and soon after joined a trapping party to the head waters of the Arkansas Rivei1, whence he went northward to the region of the Kocky Mountains which gives rise to the Mississippi and Columbia rivers, where he remained engaged in the trapping busi ness eight years. He became noted throughout that region and on both sides of the Rocky Mountains, as a successful trapper, an unfail ing shot, an unerring guide, and for bravery, sagacity, and steadiness in all circumstances. He was chosen to. lead in almost all enterprises of unusual danger, and in all attacks on the Indians. At one time with a party of twelve, he tracked a band of near sixty Crows who had stolen some of the horses belonging to the trappers ; cut loose the animals which were tied within ten feet of the strong fort of logs in which the Indians had taken shelter; attacked them and made good his retreat with the recovered horses, an Indian of another party who was with the trappers bringing away a Crow scalp as a trophy. In one combat with the Black- feet Indians Carson received a rifle ball which broke his left shoulder. Save this, he escaped the manifold dangers to which he was exposed without serious bodily injury. Of course in so 'turbulent and unrestrained a hfe, where there were no 72 LIFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN C FEEMOJST. him from the United States Arsenal at St. Louis, agree ably to the orders of Col. S. W. Kearney, commanding the third military division. We are thus particular in mentioning this piece of ordnance for reasons which laws and no prisons, there were not unfrequeut personal rencontres amongst the trappers, nor could the most peaceably disposed always avoid them. On one occasion a Frenchman who ranked as a bully, and had whipped a good many Canadians, insulted the Americans by saying they were only fit to be whipped with switches. Carson resented this instantly by saying that he was the most trifling one among the Ameri cans, and that the braggart had better begin with him. After exchang ing a few more words, each went away and armed himself, Carson with a pistol, the Frenchman with a rifle, and both mounted for the fight. Riding up until the horses' heads nearly touched — both fired almost at the same instant. Carson was a little the quickest, however, and his ball passing through the Frenchman's head, made him jerk up his gun, and sent the ball, which was intended for Carson's heart, grazing by his left eye and singeing his hair. This is, he says, the only serious personal quarrel he ever had. Col. Fremont owed his good fortune in procuring Carson's services to an accidental meeting on board the steamboat above. St. Louis, neither having ever heard of the other before, as he was setting out on his first expedition. Carson remained with him until he recrossed the mountains. His courage, fidelity, and excellent character, so completely won the heart of his commander that in his second expedition lie was glad to avail himself of Kit's services, on falling in with him as he chanced to do on the confines of Now Mexico. Kit again left the party on its arrival this side ofthe mountains — not however, until Fremont had obtained a, promise from him to join the third expedition in case one should ,be organized, a promise which he faithfully kept under circumstances calcu lated to test his devotion to his late commander. In the interim between the second and third expeditions, Carson had settled himself near Taos and had begun to farm, preparing to lead a quiet life, when he received a note from Fremont, written at Bent's Fort reminding him of his pro mise and telling him that he waited there for him. In four days from the receipt of this note, Carson joined the party, having sold house -and farm for less than half the sum he had first expended on it, and put his family under the protection of a friend, the late Gov. Bent, until he should return from a certainly long and dangerous journey. This pro- tfTM""" (¦"KEAlu.M'ti bAM.LKUl'S PASSAGK TUKOUGU a CAMUN IN TUK PLATTB RIVEK — PAGE 53. SECOND EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 73 will appear presently/ Three men were especially de tailed for its service, under the charge of Louis Zindel a native of Germany, who had been nineteen years a non-commissioned officer of artillery in the Prussian army, and regularly instructed in the duties of his pro fession. The camp equipage and provisions were trans ported in twelve carts, drawn each'by two mules ; and a light covered wagon, mounted on good springs, had been provided for the safe carriage of instruments. These were: One refracting telescope, by Frauenhofer; one reflecting .circle, by Gambey; two sextants, by Troughton ; one pocket chronometer, No. 837, by Goffe, Falmouth ; one pocket chronometer, No. 739, by Brock- bank ; one syphon barometer, by Bunten, Paris ; one cistern barometer, by Frye & Shaw, New York; six thermometers, and a number of small compasses. To make the exploration as useful as possible, Mr, Fremont determined to vary the route to the Kocky Mountains from that followed in the year 1842. The . route was then up the valley of the Great Platte Eiver to tho South Pass, in north latitude 428 ; the route now determined on was up the valley of the Kansas Eiver, to the head ofthe Arkansas River, and to some pass in the mountains, if any could be found, at its source. By making this deviation from the former route, the problem of a new road to Oregon and California, in a _ tection unfortunately proved insufficient, for at the infamous Taos massa cre which soon ensued, Carson's brother-in-law was massacred, and Mrs. Carson only saved her life by flight, leaving her house to be pillaged by the Mexicans. When Carson was in Washington in 1847, he received from President Polk the commission of lieutenant in the rifle regiment of which CoL Fremont was lieutenant colonel. i 74 LIFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN O. FREMONT. climate more genial, might be solved; and a better knowledge obtained of an important river, and the country it drained, while the great object of the expe dition would find its point of commencement at the ter mination of, the former, which was at that great gate in the ridge of the Eocky Mountains called the South Pass, and on the lofty peak of the mountain which over looks it, deemed the highest peak in the ridge, and. from the opposite sides of which four great rivers take their rise, and! flow to the Pacific or the Mississippi. The party started from the little town of Kansas on the 29th of May, 1843, and did not get back- to the United States again until August of the following year. "What they accomplished and what they endured could not be more forcibly described than it has been by Colonel Benton, who gives facts in regard to the course taken by our government towards this expedition which were never before revealed. We give what he says of this expedition therefore, entire.* "'The government- deserves credit for the zeal with whioh it has pursued geographical discovery.' Such is the remark which a leading paper made upon the discoveries of Fremont, on his return from his second expedition to the great West ; and such is the remark which all writers will make upon all his discover ies who write history from public documents and outside views. With all such writers the expeditions of Fremont will be credited to the zeal of the government for the promotion of science, as if the government under which he acted had conceived and planned these expeditions, as Mr. Jefferson did that of Lewis and Clark, and then selected this young officer to carry into effect the instructions delivered to him. How far * Thirty Tears' Pieui, vol ii. chap. 134. SECOND EXPLOKING EXPEDITION. 75 such history would be true in relation to the first expedition, which terminated in the Rocky Mountains, has been seen in the account whioh has been given of the origin of that undertaking, and which leaves the government innocent of its conception; and, therefore, not entitled to the credit of its authorship, but only to the merit of permitting it. Tn the second, and greater expedition, from which great political as well as scientific results have flowed, their merit is still less ; for, while equally innocent of its conception, they were not equally passive to its perform ance — countermanding the expedition after it had begun — and lavishing censure upon the adventurous young explorer for his manner of undertaking it. The fact was, that his first expedition barely finished, Mr. Fremont sought and obtained orders for -a second one, and was on the frontier of Missouri with his com mand when orders arrived at St. Louis to stop him, on the ground that he had made a military equipment which the peace ful nature of his geographical pursuit did not require! as if In dians did not kill and rob scientific men as well as others if not in a condition to defend themselves. The particular point of com plaint was that he had taken a small mountain howitzer, in ad dition to his rifles ; and which, he was informed,. was charged to him, although it had been furnished upon a regular requisition on the commandant of the arsenal at St. Louis, approved by the commander of the military department (Colonel, afterward Gen eral tearney). Mr. Fremont had left St. Louis, and was at the frontier, Mrs. Fremont being requested to examine the letters that came after him, and forward those which he ought to re ceive. She read the countermanding orders and detained them ! and Fremont knew -nothing of their existence, until after ho had returned from one of the most marvellous and eventful expeditions of modern times — one to which the United States are indebted (among other things) for the present own ership of California, instead of seeing it a British possession. The writer of this View, who was then in St. Louis, approved of the course which his daughter had taken (for she had stopped 76 LDJE AND SEEVICES OF JOHN C FEEMONT. the orders before he knew it) ; and he wrote a letter to the department condemning the recall, repulsing the reprimand which had been lavifhed upon Fremont, and demanding a court- martial for him when he should return. The Secretary of War was then Mr. James Madison Porter, of Pennsylvania; the chief of the topographical corps the same as now (Colonel Abert), himself an office man, surrounded by West Point offi cers, lo whose pursuit of easy service, Fremont's adventurous expeditions was a reproach ; and in conformity to whose opi nions the secretary seemed to have acted. Ou Fremont's return, upwards of a year afterwards, Mr. William Wilkins, of Penn sylvania, was Secretary of War, and received the young explorer with all honor and friendship, and obtained for him the brevet of captain from President- Tyler. And such is the inside view of this piece of history — very different from what documentary evidence would make i.. " To complete his survey across the continent, on the line of travel between the State of Missouri and the tide-water region of the Columbia, was Fremont's object in this expedition ; and it was all that he had obtained orders for doing ; but only a small part, and to his mind, an insignificant part, of what he proposed doing. People had been to the mouth of the Columbia before, and his ambition was not limited to making tracks where others had made them before him. There was a vast region beyond the Rocky Mountains — the whole western slope of our continent — of which but little was known ; and of that little, nothing with the accuracy of science. All that vast region, more than seven hundred miles square — equal tp a great kingdom in Europe — was an unknown land — a sealed book, which he longed to open, and to read. Leaving the frontier of Missouri in May, 1 843, and often diverging from his route for the sake of expand ing his field of observation, he had arrived in the tide-water region of Columbia in the month of November ; and had then completed the whole service which his orders embraced. He might then have returned upon his tracks, or been brought home SECOND EXPLOErNG EXPEDITION. 77 by sea, or hunted the most pleasant path for getting back ; and if he had been a routine officer, satisfied with fulfilling an order, he would have done so. Not so the young explorer, who held his diploma from nature, and not from the United States Mili tary Academy. He was at Fort Vancouver, guest of the hospi table Dr. McLaughlin, Governor of the British Hudson Bay Fur Company ; and obtained from bim all possible information upon his intended line of return — faithfully given, but which proved to be disastrously erroneous in its leading and governing feature. A southeast route to cross the great unknown region diagonally through 'its heart (making a line from the Lowei Columbia to the Upper Colorado of the Gulf of California), was his line of return : twenty-five men (the same who had come with him from the United States) and a hundred horses, were his equipment ; and the commencement of winter the time of start ing — all without a guide, relying upon their guns for support ; and, in the last resort, upon their horses — such as should give out 1 for one that could carry a man, or a pack, could not be spared for food. " All the maps up to that time had shown this region traversed from east to west — from the base of the Rocky Mountains to the Bay of San Francisco — by a great river called the Buena Ven tura : which may be translated, the Good Chance. Governor McLaughlin believed in the existence of this river, and made out a conjectural manuscript map to show its place and course. Fremont believed in it, and his plan was to reach it before the dead of winter, and then hybernate upon it. As a great river he knew that it must have some rich bottoms, coverfa with wood and grass, where the wild animals would collect and shel ter, when the snows and freezing winds drove them from the plains : and with these animals to live on, and grass for the horses, and w ood. for fires, he expected to avoid suffering, if not to enjoy comfort, during his solitary sojourn in that remote and pro found wilderness. " He proceeded — soon encountered deep snows which impeded 78 LDJE AND SERVICES OF JOHN C. FREMONT. progress upon the highlands — descended into a lo.w country to the left (afterwards known to be the Great Basin, from whioh no water issues to any sea) — skirted an enormous chain of mountain on tlie right, luminous with glittering white snow — saw strange Indians, who mostly fled — found a desert — no Buena Ventura ; and death from cold and famine staring him in the face. The failure to find the river, or tidings of it, and the possibility of its existence seeming to be forbid by the structure of the country, and hybernation in the inhospitable desert being impossible, and the question being that of life and death, some new plan of con duct became indispensable. His celestial observations told him that, he was in the latitude of the Bay of San Francisco, and only seventy miles from it. But what miles ! up and down that snowy mountain which the Indians told him no men could cross inthe winter — which would have snow upon it as deep as the trees, and places where "people would slip off, and fall half a mile at a time ; — a fate which actually befell a mule, packed with the precious burden of botanical specimens, collected along a travel 3f two thousand miles. No reward could induce an Indian to . 'become a guide in the perilous adventure of crossing this moun tain. All recoiled and fled from the adventure. It was attempted without a guide— in the dead of winter — accomplished in forty days — theNnen and surviving horses — a woeful proces sion, crawling along one by one ; skeleton men leading skeleton horses — and arriving at Sutter's Settlement in the beautiful valley of the Sacramento ; and where a genial warmth, and budding flowers, and trees in foliage, and grassy groundv and flowing streams, and comfortable food, made a fairy contrast with the famine and freezing they had encountered, and the lofty Sierra Nevada which they had climbed. Here he rested and recruited ; Mid from this point, and by way of Monterey, the first tidings were heard of the party since leaving Fort Vancouver. " Another long progress to the south, skirting the western base of the Sierra Nevada, made him acquainted with the noble va' \y of the San Joaquin, counterpart to that of the Sacra- f - SECOND EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 79 mento ; when crossing through a gap, and turning to the left, he skirted the Great Basin ; and by many deviations from the right line home, levied incessant contributions to science from expanded lands, not described before. In this evetftful exploration, all the great features of the western slope of our continent were brought to light — the Great Salt Lake, the Utah Lake, the Little Salt Lake ; at all which places, then deserts, the Mormons now are ; the Sierra Nevada, then solitary in the snow, now crowded with Americans, digging gold from its flanks : the beautiful valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, then alive with wild horses, elk, deer, and wild fowls, now smiling with American cultivation ; the? Great Basin itself, and its contents ; the Three Parks ; the approximation of the great rivers which, rising together in the central region of the Rocky Mountains, go off east and west, towards the rising and the setting sun — all these, and other strange features of a new region, more ^Lsiatie than American! were brought to light and revealed to public view in the results* of this exploration. "Eleven months he was never out oi' sight of snow; and sometimes, freezing with cold, would look do'wn upon a sunny valley, warm with genial heat; — sometimes panting with the summer's heat, would look up at the eternal snows which crowned the neighboring mountain. But it was not then that California was secured to the Union — to the greatest power of the New World — to which it of right belonged ; but it was the first step towards the acquisition, and the one that led to it. The second expedition led to a third, just in time to snatch the golden Cali fornia from the hands of the British, ready to clutch it. But of this hereafter. Fremont's second expedition was now over. H« had left the United States a fugitive from his government, and returned with a name that went over Europe and America, and with discoveries bearing fruit which the civilized world is now enjoying." Thrilling as this brief sketch by Col. Benton is, it con- 80 LTFE AND SERVICE8 OF JOHN C. FREMONT. veys to the reader but an imperfect idea of the hardships of this awful journey, and of the heroism of the little band who endured them. Fremont set out from the town of Kansas, as we have already stated, on the 29th of May. On the 6th of September, and after travelling over 1,700 miles, he came in sight of the Salt Lake, the most important geographical result^of his travels to that point. The description of his approach to this Inland Sea, as he then termed it, and his perilous voyage to an island with which it was gemmed in his linen boat, the first of any kind that ever ploughed that unexplored water, cannojbe given to better advantage than in his own words. The night before they had encamped a fewfmiles distantp on what was known as Weber's Fork, a stream from 100 to 150 feet wide. He, continued his narrative as follows : " September 6th. — Leaving the encampment early, we again directed our course for the peninsular butte across a low shrubby plain, crossing in the way a slough-like creek, with miry banks, and wooded with thickets of thorn (cratagus) which were loaded with berries. This time we reached the butte without any diffi culty, and, ascended to the summit, immediately at our feet beheld the object of our anxious search — the waters of the Inland Sea, stretching in still and solitary grandeur far beyond the limit of our vision. It was one of the great points of the exploration ; and as we looked eagerly over the lake in the first emotions of excited pleasure, I am doubtful if the followers of Balboa felt more enthusiasm when, from the heights of the Andes, they saw for the first time the great western ocean. It was certainly a magnificent object, and a noble terminus to this part of our expe dition ; and to travellers so long shut up among mountain ranges, a sudden view over the expanse of silent waters had in it some thing sublime. Several large islands raised their high rocky peaks out of the waves ; but whether or not they were timbered, was SECOND EXPLORTNG EXPEDITION. 81 Still left to our imagination, as the distance was too great to determine if the dark hues upon them were woodland or naked rock. During the day, the clouds had been gathering black over the mountains to the westward, and, while we were looking,,,, a storm burst down with sudden fury upon the lake, and entirely hid the islands from our view. So far as we could see, along the shores there was not a solitary tree, and but little appearance of grass; and on Weber's Fork, a few miles below our last encampment, the timber was gathered into groves, and then dis appeared entirely. As this appeared to be the nearest point lo the lake where a suitable camp could be found, we directed our course to one of the groves, where we found a handsome encamp ment, with good grass and an abundance of rushes (equisetum hyemale). At sunset the thermometer was 55°; the evening clear and calm, with some cumuli. " September 1. — The morning was calm and clear, with a tem perature at sunrise of 39° 5'. The day was spent in active preparation for our intended voyage on the lake. On ths edge of the stream a favorable spot was selected in a grove, and, felling the timber, we made a strong corral, or horse pen, for the animals, and a little fort for the people who were to remain. We were now probably in the country of tbe Utah Indians, though none reside upon tbe lake. The India-rubber boat was 'repaired with prepared cloth and gum, and filled with air, in readiness for the next day. " The provisions which Carson had brought with him being now exhausted, and our stock reduced to a small quantity of roots, I detei'mined to retain with me only a sufficient number of men for the execution of our design ; and accordingly seven were sent back to Fort Hall, under the guidance of Frangois Lajeunesse, who, having been for many years a trapper in the country, was considered an experienced mountaineer. Though they were provided with good horses, and the road was a re markably plain one, of only four days' journey for a horseman, they became bewildered (as we afterwards learned), and losing 4* 82 LIFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN C FREMONT. their way, wandered about the country in parties of one or two, reaching the fort about a week afterwards Some straggled in of themselves, and the others were brought in by Indians who had picked them upon Snake River,' about sixty miles below, the fort, travelling along the emigrant road in full march for the Lower Columbia. The leader of this adventurous party was Francois. " We formed now but a small family. With Mr. Preuss and myself, Carson, Bernier, and Basil Lajeunesse, had been selected for the boat expedition — the first ever attempted on this interior sea ; and Badeau, with Derosier, and Jacob (the colored man), were to be left in charge of the camp. We were favored with most delightful weather. To-night there was a brilliant sunset of golden orange and green, which left the western sky clear and beautifully pure; but clouds in the east made me lose an occul- tation. The summer frogs were singing around us, and the even ing was very -pleasant, with a temperature of 66° — a night of a more southern autumn. For our supper we had yampah, the most agreeably flavored of the roots, seasoned by a small fat duck, which had come in the way of Jacob's rifle. Around our fire to-night were many speculations on what to-morrow would bring forth, and in our busy conjectures we fancied that we should find every one of the large islands a tangled wilderness of trees and shrubbery, teeming with game of every description that the neighboring region afforded, and which the foot of a white man or Indian had never violated. Frequently, during the day, clouds had rested on the summits of their lofty mountains, and we believed that we should fiod clear streams and springs of fresh water ; and we indulged in anticipations of the luxurious repasts with which we were to indemnify ourselves for past pri vations. Neither, in our discussions, were the whirlpool and other mysterious dangers forgotten, which Indian and hunter's stories attributed to this unexplored lake.' "The men had discovered that", instead of being strongly sewed (like that of the preceding year, which had so triumph- SECOND EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 83 antly rode the canons of the Upper Great Platte), our present boat was only pasted together in a very insecure manner, the maker having been allowed so little time in tlie construction that he was obliged to crowd the labor of two months into seve ral days. The insecurity of the boat was sensibly felt by us ; and mingled with the enthusiasm and excitement that we all felt at the prospect of an undertaking which had never before, been accomplished, was a certain impression of danger, suffi cient to give a serious character to our conversation. The momentary view which had been had of the lake the day before, its great extent and rugged islands, dimly seen amidst the waters in the obscurity of the sudden storm, were well calculated to heighten the idea of undefined danger with which the lake was generally associated. " September 8. — A calm, clear day, with a sunrise temperature of 41°. In view of our present enterprise, a part of the equip ment of the boat had been made to consist in three air-tight bags, about three feet long, and capable each of containing five gallons. These had Ijpen filled" with water the night before, and were now placed in the boat, with our blankets and instru ments, consisting of a sextant, telescope, spy-glass, thermometer, and barometer. "We left the camp at sunrise, and had a very pleasant voyage down the river, in which there was generally eight or ten feet of water, deepening as we neared the mouth in the latter part of the day. In the course of the morning we discovered that two of the cylinders leaked so much as to require one man constantly at the bellows, to keep them sufficiently full of air to support the boat. Although we had made a very early start, we loitered so much on the way— stopping every now and then, and floating silently along, to get a shot at a goose or a duck— that it was^ late in the day when we reached the outlet. The river here divided into several branches, filled with fluvials, and so very shallow that it was with difficulty we could get the boat, along, being obliged to get out and wade. We encamped on a low 84 LTFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN- C. FREMONT. point among rushes and young willows, where there was a quan tity of drift wood, which served for our fires. The evening was mild and clear ; we made a pleasent bed of tbe young willows ; and geese and ducks enough had been killed for an abundant supper at night, and for breakfast the next iriornihg. The still ness of the night was enlivened by millions o.f water fowl Latitude (by observation) 41° 11' 26"; and longitude 112' 11' 30V. " September 9. — The day was clear and calm ; the thermome ter at sunrise at 49°. As usual with the trappers on the eve ot any enterprise, our people had made dreams, and theirs hap pened to be a bad one — one which always preceded evil — and consequently thev looked very gloomy this morning ; but we hurried through our breakfast, in order to make an early start, and have all the day before us for our adventure. The channel in a short distance became so shallow that our navigation w?is at an end, being merely a sheet of soft mud, with a few inches of water, and sometimes none at all, forming the low-water shore of the lake. All this place was absolutely covered with Hocks of screaming plover. We- took off our clothes, and, getting overboard, commenced dragging the boat — making, by this ope ration, a very curious trail, and a very disagreeable smell in stir ring up the mud, as we sank above the knee at every step. The water here was still fresh, with only an insipid and disagree able taste, probably derived from the bed of fetid mud. After proceeding in this way about a mile, we came to a small black ridge oh the bottom, beyond which the water became suddenly- salt, beginning gradually to deepen, and the bottom was sandy and firm. It was a remarkable division, separating the fresh waters of the rivers from the briny water of the lake, which was entirely saturated with common salt. Pushing our little vessel across the narrow boundary, we sprang on board, and at length were afloat on the waters of the unknown sea. " We did not steer for the mountainous islands, but directed our course towards a lower one, which it had been decided we SEuOND EXPLORTNG EXPEDITION. 85 should first visit, the summit of which was formed like the cra ter at the upper end of Bear River valley. So long as we could touch the bottom with our paddles, we were very gay ; but gradually, as the water deepened, we became more still in our frail bateau of gum cloth distended with air, and with pasted seams. Althpugh the day was very calm, there was a considera ble swell on the lake ; and there were white patches of foam on the surface, which were slowly moving to the southward, in«i eating fhe set of a current in that direction, and recalling the recollection of the whirlpool stories. The water continued to deepen as we advanced ; the lake becoming almost transparently clear, of an extremely beautiful bright-green color ; and the spray, which was thrown into the boat and over our clothes, was di rectly converted into a crust of common salt, which covered also our hands and arms. ' Captain,' said Carson, who for some time had been looking suspiciously at some whitening appearances outside the nearest island, " what are those yonder? — won't you just take a look with the glass ?" We ceased paddling for a moment, and found them to be the caps of the waves that were beginning to break under the force of a strong breeze that was coming up the lake. " The form of the boat seemed to be an admirable one, and it rode on the waves like a water bird ; but at the same time, it was slow in its progress. When we were little more than half way across the reach, two of the divisions between the cylinders gave way, and it required the constant use of the bellows to keep in a sufficient quantity of air. For a long time we scarcely seemed to approach our island, but gradually we worked across the rougher sea of the open channel, into the smoother water under the lee of the island ; and began to discover that what we took for a long row of pelicans, ranged on the beach, were only low cliffs, whitened with salt by the spray of the waves ; and about noon we reached the shore, the transparency of the water enabling us to see the bottom at a considerable depth. " It was a handsome broad beach where we landed, behind 86 , LTFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN 0. FREMONT. which the hill, into which the island was gathered, rose some what abruptly; and a point of rock at one end enclosed it in a sheltering way ; and as there was an abundance of drift wood along the shore, it offered us a pleasant encampment. We did not suffer our fragile boat to touch the sharp rocks, but getting over board, discharged the baggage, and lifting it gently out of the- water, carried it to the upper part of the beach, which was com posed of very small fragments of rock. "Among the successive banks of the beach, formed by the action of the waves, our attention, as we approached the island, had been attracted by one 10 to 20 feet in breadth, of a dark- brown color. Beiug more closely examined, this was found to be composed, to the depth of seven or eight and twelve inches, entirely of the larva of insects, or, in common language, of the skins of worms, about the size of a grain of oats, which had been washed up by the waters of the lake. " The cliffs and masses of rock along the shore were whit ened by an incrustation of salt where the waves dashed up against them ; and the • evaporating water, which had been left in holes and hollows on the surface of the rocks, was covered with a crust of salt about one-eighth of an inch in thickness. It appeared strange that, in the midst of this grand reservoir, one of our greatest wants lately had been salt. Ex posed to be more perfectly dried in the sun, this became very white and fine, having the usual flavor of very -excellent com mon salt, without any foreign taste ; but only a little was col lected for present use, as there was in it a number of small black insects. " Carrying with us the barometer, and other instruments, in the afternoon we ascended to the highest point of the island" —a bare rocky peak, 800 feet above the lake. Standing on the summit, we enjoyed an extended view of the lake, enclosed in a basin of rugged mountains, which sometimes left marshy flats and extensive bottoms between them and the shore, and in other places came directly down into the water with bold and precipi- SECOND EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 87 tous bluffs. Following with our glasses the irregular shores, we searched for some indications of a communication with other bodies of water, or the entrance of other rivers ; but the dis tance was so great that we could make out nothing with cer tainty. To the southward,«everal peninsular mountains, 3,000 or 4,000 feet high, entered the lake, appearing, so far as the distance and our position enabled us to determine, to be con nected by flats and low ridges with the mountains in the rear. These are probably the islands usually indicated on maps of this region as entirely detached from the shore. The season of our operations was wheu the waters were at their lowest stage. At the season of high waters in the spring, it is probable that the marshes and low grounds are overflowed, and the surface of the lake considerably greater. In several places the view was of un limited extent — here and there a rocky islet appearing above the water at a great distance ; and beyond, everything was vague and undefined. As we looked over the vast expanse of water spread out beneath us, and strained our eyes along the silent shores over which hung so much doubt and uncertainty, and which were so full of interest to us, I could hardly repress the almost irresistible desire to continue our exploration ; but the lengthening snow on the mountains was a plain indication of the advancing season, and our frail linen boat appeared so insecure that I was unwilling to trust our lives to the uncertainties of the lake. I therefore unwillingly resolved to terminate our survey here, and remain satisfied for the present with what we had been able to add the unknown geography of the region. We felt pleasure also in remembering that we were the first who, in traditionary annals of the country, had visited the islands, and broken, with the cheerful sound of human voices, the long soli tude of the place. From the point where we were standing, the ground fell off on every side to the water, giving us a perfect view of the island, which is twelve or thirteen miles in circum ference, being simply a rocky hill, on which there is neither water nor trees of any kind.; although the Fremontia vermicu- 88 , LIFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN C. FREMONT. laris, which was in great- abundance, might easily be mistaken for limber at a distance. The plant seemed here to delight in a congenial air, growing in extraordinary luxuriance seven -to eight feet high, and was very abundant on the upper parts of the island, where it was almost thffonly plant. This is eminent ly a saline shrub ; its leaves have a very' salt taste ; and it luxu riates in saline soils, where it is usually a characteristic. It is widely diffused over all this country. A chenopodiaceotis shrub, which is a new species of obione(0. rigida, T&rr. Sf Frem), was equally characteristic of the lower parts of the island. These two are the striking plants on the island, and belopg to a class of plants which form a prominent feature in the vege tation of this •country. On the lower parts of the island, also, a prickly pear of very large size was frequent. Oil the shore, near the water, was a woolly Species of phdcO. ; and a new spe cies of umbelliferous plant (leptdtamia) was scattered about in very considerable abundance. These constituted all the vegeta tion that now appeared upon the island. " I accidentally left 'on the summit the brass cover to the object end of my spy-glass ; and- as it will probably remain there undisturbed by Indians, it will furnish matter of specu lation to some future traveller. In our excursions about the . island, we did not meet with any kind of animal ; a magpie, and another larger bird, probably attracted by the smoke of our fire, paid us a visit from the shore, and were the only living things seen during our stay. The rock constituting the cliffs along the shore where we were encamped, is a talcous rock, or steatite, with brown spar. " At sunset, the temperature was l70°. We had arrived just in time to obtain a meridian altitude of the sun, and other observations were obtained this evening, which place our camp in latitude 41°10' 42", and longitude 112° 21' 05" from Greenwich. From a discussion of the barometrical obser vations made during our stay on the shores of the lake, we have adopted 4,200 feet for its elevation above the gulf of Mexico. » SECOND EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 83 In. the first disappointment we felt from the dissipation of our dream of the fertile islands, I called this Disappointment Island. "Out of the drift wood, we made ourselves pleasant little lodges, open to the water, and, after having kindled large fires to excite the wonder of any stiwggling savage on the lake shores, lay down, for the first time in a long journey, in perfect security ; no one thinking about his arms. The evening was extremely bright and pleasant ; but the wind rose during the night, and the waves began to break heavily on the shore, making our island tremble. I had not expected in our inland journey to hear the roar of an ocean surf; and the strangeness of our situation, and the excitement we felt in the associated interests of the place, made this one of the most interesting nights I re member during our long expedition. " In the morning the surf was breaking heavily on the shore, and we were up early. The lake was dark -and agitated, and we hurried through our scanty breakfast, and embarked — having first filled one of the buckets with witter from-the lake, of which it was intended to make salt. The sun had risen by the time we were ready to start; and it was blowing a strong gale of wind, almost directly off the shore, and raising a considerable sea, in which our boat strained very much. It roughened as we got away from the island, and it required all the efforts of the men to make any head against the wind' and sea, the gale rising with the sun ; and there was danger of being blown into one of the open reaches beyond the island. At the distance of half a mile from the beach, the depth of water was sixteen feet, with a clay bottom ; but, as the working of the boat was very severe labor, and during the operation of rounding it was necessary to cease paddling, during which the boat lost considerable way, I was unwilling to discourage the men, and reluctantly gave up my intention of ascertaining the depth, and the character of .the bed. There was a general shout in the boat when we found ourselves 'in one fathom, and we soon after landed on a low point of mud, immediately under the butte of the peninsula, where we unloaded 90 LIFE AND SERVICES OF JOHN C. FREMONT. the boat and carried the baggage about a quarter of a mile to firmer groundj®|We arrived just in time for meridian observar tion, andtjarrieathe barometer to the summit of the butte, which is 500 feet above the lake. Mr. Preuss set off on foot for the camp, which was about nine miles distant ; Basil accompanying him to bring back horses for tbe boat and baggage. " Tho rude-lookjng shelter we raised on the shore, our scat- ¦ tered baggage and boat lying on the beach, made quite a picture ; and we called this the Fisherman's Camp. Lynosiris graveolens, and another new species of obionk (O confertifolia — Torr. & Frem.), were growing on the low grounds, with interspersed spots of an unwholesome salt grass, on a saline clay soil, with a few other plants. " The horses arrived late in the afternoon, by which time the gale had increased to such a height that, a, man could scarcely stand before it; and we were obliged to pack our baggage hastily, as the rising water of the lake had already reached the point where we were halted. Looking back as we rode off, we found the place of recent encampment entirely cove.red. The low plain through which we rode to the camp was covered with a compact growth of shrubs of extraordinary size and luxuriance. The soil was sandy and saline ; flat places, resembling the beds of ponds, that were bare of vegetation, and covered with a pow dery white salt, being interspersed among the shrubs. Artemisia tridentata was very abundant, but the plants were principally saline ; a large and vigorous chenopodiaceous shrub, fire to eig*ht feet high, being characteristic, with Fremontia vermicu- laris, and a shrubby plant which seems to be a new salicornia, We reached the camp in time to escape a thunder storm which blackened the sky, and were received with a discharge of the howitzer by the people, who, having been unable to see any thing of us on the lake, had begun to feel some uneasiness." On the 4th of November, Col. Fremont and hia party reached Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia River, SECOND EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 91 the appointed terminus of his journey. He remarks in his journal that it would have been very gratifying to have . gone down to the Pacific, and solely in the interest and in the love of geography, to have seen the ocean on the western as well as on the eastern side of the continent, so as to give a satisfactory completeness to the geographical picture which had been formed in his mind ; but the rainy season had now regularly set in, and the air was filled with fogs and rain, which left no beauty in any scenery, and obstructed observations. The object ofhis instructions had been entirely fulfilled in having connected his reconnoissance with the sur veys of Captain Wilkes ; and although it would have been agreeable and satisfactory to have completed there his astronomical observations, he did not feel that for such a reason he would be justified in waiting for favorable weather. He therefore signified his intention to his companions to set out for the east without an hour's unnecessary delay. 92 LIFE AND SERVICE8 OF JOHN 0. FREMONT. CHAPTER Y. SECOND EXPLORING EXPEDITION COiSTrNUED — SETS OUT FEOM FORT VANCOUVER INTERESTING INDIAN* COUNCIL — SPEECH OF COL. FREMONT JOURNEY THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS — INSANITY OF HIS MEN FROM PRIVATION AND COLD — PREUSS LOSES HIS WAY ARRIVAL AT THE RANCHE OF CAPTAIN SUTTER. In two days, preparations for their return were com pleted, and on the 10th of November, his little party em,bai"ked on their homeward journey, in which he con templated a circuit to the south and southeast, and the exploration of the Great Basin between the Rocky Mountains .and the Sierra Nevada. Three principal objects were indicated, by report or by mapsras being on this route, the character or existence of which he wished to ascertain, and which he assumed as land marks, or leading points, on the projected line of return. The first of these points was the Tlamath Lake, on the table-land between tlie head of Fall River, which comes to the Columbia, and tlie Sacramento, which goes to the bay of San Francisco ; and from which lake a river of the same name makes its way westwardly direct to the ocean. The position of this lake, on the line of inland communication between SECOND EXPLORING EXPEDITION. 93 Oregon and California; ite proximity to the demarka- tion boundary of latitude 42° ; its imputed double character of lake, or meadow, according to the season of the year; and the hostile and warlike character attri buted to the Indians about it — all made it a desirable object to visit and examine. From this lake he intended to go about southeast, to a reported lake called Mary's, distant some days' journey in the Great Basin ; and thence, still on southeast, to the reputed Buenaventura River, which has had a place in many maps, countenancing a belief in the existence of a great river flowing from the Rocky Mountains to the bay of San Francisco. From the Buenaventura his destination was that section of the Rocky Mountains which includes the heads of Arkansas River, and of the opposite waters of the California gulf; and thence down the Arkansas to Bent's fort, and home. This was his projected line of return — a great part of it abso lutely new to geographical, botanical, and geological science — and the subject' of endless rumors of lakes, rivers, deserts, and savages hardly above the condition of wild animals, all tending to inflame his curiosity and love of adventure to its highest pitch. It was a serious enterprise, at the commencement of winter, to undertake the passage of such a region, and wifch a party consisting only of twenty-five persons, and they of many nations— American, - French, German, Canadian, Indian, and colored— and most of them young, several of them being under twenty-one years of age. All knew that a strange country was to be explored, and dangers and hardships to be encountered ; but no one blenched at the prospect. On the contrary, courage and confidence animated the whole party. 94 LD7E AND SERVICES OF JOHN O. FREMONT. Cheerfulness, readiness, subordination, prompt obedi ence, characterized all; nor did any extremity of peril or privation, to which they were afterwards exposed, says Mr. Fremont, ever belie, or derogate 'from, the fine spirit of this brave and generous commencement. He was not permitted to execute this plan precisely as he had marked it out; but we must refer to his official report, those who wish to know how he was forced by desert plains and mountain ranges, and deep snows,' far to the south, and along the western base of the Sierra Nevada ; where, indeed, a new and ample field of exploration opened itself before him. The reader will be able to form a tolerably satisfactory idea of the hardships endured by him and his heroical party during the eleven months that he was struggling for a passage over the mountains, by a few extracts from his journal for the months of January, February, and March", which are here submitted. No one can rise from the perusal of them without feeling that the powers of human endurance had never been so fully tested before. " January 28