.^B>i^4.f,V^ 11*;: 1 _ •IfiM^'fJj^ ¦ . ;^ I' YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY TRADITIONS, LEGENDS, SUPERSTITIONS, AND SKETCHES OF DEYONSHIEE ON THE BORDERS OF THE TAMAR AND THE TAVY, ILT.USTHATIVE OP ITS MANNERS, CUSTOMS, HISTORY, antiquities, scenery, and NATURAL HISTORY, IN A SERIES OF LETTERS TO ROBERT SOUTHEY, ESQ.-^-ff^":, BY r.' .. MRS. BRAY. \\ /^_ AUTHOR (as MRS. STOTHABd) OF ' TRAVFLS IN NOni»4Wiy£Tf ** I own the power Of local sympathy, that o'er the fair Throws more divine allurement, and o'er all The great, more grandeur." IN THREE VOLUMES.— VOL. II. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. MDCCCXXXVIII. SUBJECTS OF VOLUME THE SECOND. Page Letter XXII. 1 Letter XXIII. 34 Letter XXIV. . 60 Letter XXV. 81 Letter XXVI. . 100 Letter XXVII. 134 Letter XXVIIL . 176 Letter XXIX. 220 Letter XXX. . 248 Letter XXXI. 301 LETTERS TO THE LAUREATE, S(-c, ^c. LETTER XXII. TO ROBERT SOUTHEY, ESQ. Contents: — Tavistock, its situation and local advantages — The River, &c. — Great antiquity of the Town — For what celebrated — An old Woman's observation on the antiquity of scalded cream — Etymo logy of the name of the Town — Beauty of the surrounding object? — The Vicarage — Those pleasures derived from Nature most lasting — Browne, the Author of Britannia's Pastorals, born in Tavistock — His lines on his birth-place — The Nightingale not found iu Devon — Little known of the Roman era in this part of the West — Tavistock intimately connected with Saxon History — A Saxon Noble founder of its Abbey — That Monastic foundation gave importance to the Town — Progress of Christianity in the West — By whom the Damnonii were converted not known with any certainty — Mr. Southey's opinion on the subject, given in a Note, from one of his letters — The People of the West beuetited in civi lization by the Roman Conquest — The subject continued — Anglo- Saxons settled in this part of the Island — Progress of the Church — The first Bishops in Devon — Abbey of Tavistock ; its present poor remains contrasted with its former splendour — Orgar, his rank and office as Alderman or Earl of Devon — Tbe Court in which he presided — Elected at the Shiregemot — The wisdom of Alfred in his Laws — Office of Earl not at first hereditary — A Member of the Wittenagemote — Orgar, father of the celebrated Elfrida — She was born in Tavistock — Her early Life — Ethelwold deputed to woo her for the King — Splendour of her Father's Court — Ethelwold falls in love with, deceives the King, and marries her himself — The trick discovered; its fatal consequences — Different opinions lespecting the place where Ethelwold was slain — Malmesbury proved to be erroneous in his statement respecting Dorsetshire — Browne and Selden's detection of errors in the manuscript copies of Malmesbury referred to — hence might have arisen the mistake VOL. II. B 2 SITUATION OF TAVISTOCK. [lET. — Risdon's account most probable ; supported as it is by the evidence derived from local circumstances — Risdon's learning as an antiquary — Edward the Martyr most likely killed in Dorset shire, where the Nunnery was afterwards built by Elfrida — Saxon Chronicle quoted in evidence of the fact — The question further examined, and the subject continued — Miss Seward's mistake respecting Gawthorpe Hall, the Seat of Lord Harewood, Yorkshire, for Harewood in CornwaU — Mason's Tragedy of Elfrida ; its merit as a poem — Falsifies History. Vicarage, Tavistock, June 16, 1832. My DEAR Sir, Having now led you through the western limits of Dartmoor, whence the river Tavy takes its rise, I purpose, in this letter, commencing my ac count of the town to which that river gives name : a town of very high antiquity, and* possessing many interesting claims on our attention, not only in a general, but individual point of view ; since it has given birth to many whose names have become illustrious in the history or literature of this king dom. Tavistock is situated on the banks of the Tavy, on the western side of the Forest of Dartmoor, and not very far distant from the river Tamar, which divides the counties of Cornwall and Devon. It lies thirty- two miles west from the city of Exeter ; sixteen south from Oakhampton; and fourteen north from the good town of Plymouth. Few places in England, perhaps, have been more blest with local attractions by the bounties of a gracious Providence. The town hes in a valley surrounded by hills, whose verdure is perpetual. The river is here pe culiarly beautiful : it runs, with great rapidity, over vast portions of rock that form its bed. The whole ^XII.] CLOUTED CREAM. 3 parish abounds with springs and rivulets of the purest water. The woods (where they are suffered to remain, for the love of lopping a tree in every hedge is the sin of this neighbourhood) are exceed ingly luxuriant : the oak is common amongst these, and the most wooded parts lie westward in the parish. The soil is, generally speaking, of a deep brown, here and there tinged with red ; it is exceedingly rich and fertile ; anti strata of aUuvial deposit may be observed in many of the valleys. Our pasturage is abundant ; and we are celebrated, Uke most parts of Devon, for the excellence of that luxury, our scalded or clouted cream. This has been honoured by the notice of a poet whose verse captivates the fancy, and raises even to ecstasy the spirit of every reader whose heart and eye are sensible to the charms of nature in aU the varied productions of her hand. Spenser thus alludes to our cream in his delightful poem, the "^ Shepherd's Calendar;' where Colin re cites to Thenot the graces and courtesy of a deceased Shepherdess : Ne would she scorne the simple shepheard swaine ; For she would call him often heme, And give him curds and clouted cream. We have another delicious preparation from our milk, caUed junket, which has also been noticed by a great poet ; for Milton -writes in his L' Allegro, 'And fairy Mab ihejunieis ate.' Indeed we are so celebrated for our cream, and have been so in all ages, that I doubt not that of this was made the very sort of butter, in the western parts of Britain, so much esteemed by the^ Romans: the wicker- worked baskets, and the butter of the Bri tons, being aUuded to by one or more of their most b2 4 ETYMOLOGY OF TAVISTOCK. [lET. famous writers*. This luxury, no doubt, continued to be held in estimation in the times of the Anglo- Saxons, when the western part of the island became more than ever valuable on account of its flocks and herds. I once told a good old woman, who carried me into her cottage to see her dairy at Fitter Tavy, (as the country people here call the romantic village of Peter Tavy) that she little thought of how an cient date was the custom of preparing the rich scalded cream, in the manner she was describing to me. " Auncient !" she exclaimed; "I'se warrant he's as old as Adam ; for all the best things in the world were to be had in Paradise." This origin of clouted cream went even beyond my antiquarian speculations ; though certainly I must admit, if all the best things in the world were really to be found in Paradise, our cream might, certainly, there claim a place. Respecting the name of our town, I here insert an extract from my brother Alfred John Kempe's Historical Notices of the Abbey, that appeared in the Gentleman's Magazine, to which, on alraost aU subjects connected with antiquity, he has now, for many years, been a constant, and I will add, a va luable contributor. " The etymology of the name Tavistock does not appear to be of difficult solution. ' The place on the Tavy' is evidently implied by the compound ; but it may be observed that, by early writers of the monk ish age, the Tavy is caUed the Tau, and that the Taw, the Towy, the Tay, and the Taf, are common appeUatives of many British rivers. The Tavy discharges itself into the Tamar, a few miles above * Martial mentions the baskets, Pliny the butter of the barbarians. XXII. J ETYm6lOGY of TAVISTOCK. 5 Plymouth ; of which last-mentioned river it may be accounted a branch. There can be Uttle doubt, therefore, that the Tavy is an abbreviation of the British words Tau vechan, or the little Tau, thus dis tinguishing the tributary branch from the Tau maivr, (afterwards Tamar,) the great Tau. When the Saxons estabUshed this town and monastery on the banks of the Tau vechan, they were content to affix a short adjunct from their own language to tho ori ginal British words, and the abbreviated form, so much sought by common parlance, easily moulded Tau vechanstohe into Tavistock. The Saxon Chro nicle indeed strongly countenances this opinion ; in that venerable record it is caUed ^tepnzjtoke, which, without any distortion, may be read At-ta- vingstoke*." I confess, that in describing my beloved towm, I shaU iind some difficulty in speaking with other than the most partial feelings ; since so much cause have I to give it a good name, so much do I delight in the scenery that every where surrounds us ; so much pleasure do I feel in the tranquil retirement * Respecting the etymology of Tavistock, I copy the following passage from the works of Browne, the poet, who was born in that town. " Tavie is a river, having his head in Dertmoor, in Devon, some few miles from Marie-Tavy, and falls southward into Tamar: out of the same Moore riseth, ruuning northward, another, called Tau: which by the way the rather I speak of, because in the printed Malmesburie de Gest. Pontific. lib. 2, fol. 146, you reade: Est in Damnonia coenobium Monachorum juxta Tau fluvium, qi^od Tavis tock vocatur : whereas upon Tau stands (neere the north side of the shire) Taustocke, being no remnants of a monasterie ; so that you must there reade, juxta Tair Fluvium, as in a Manuscript Copie of Malmesburie's time (the form of the hand assuring Malmesburie's time) belonging te the Abbey of St. Augustine, in Canterburie, I have seen in the hands of my very learned friend M. Selden." Indeed Taustock and Tavistock are still very frequently confounded. 6 THE VICARAGE. [lET. of the Vicarage house, (situated as it is in a beautiful garden, where the venerable walls of the Abbey form the boundary of our little domain,) that I fancy no spot so delightful as my own home. Many, I dare say, would smile at hearing such an assertion ; but if it be a prejudice, it is not only a very harmless one, but such as may be encouraged and turned to good account ; a grateful contentment with that lot given to iis as our portion by the goodness of Provi dence, being one of those duties that carry with them their reward — a constant enjoyment of the things that are our own. Here, indeed, may we say, " the lines have fallen to us in pleasant places." And if it be true, (which surely no considerate mind will deny,) that next to the blessing of dear kindred and friends, there are no temporal blessings to be compared to a quiet home, situated in a picturesque country, with plenty of books and leisure to read them, we have every cause to feel that we are blest ; and to entertain that kindly spirit even towards the inanimate things of this neighbourhood, which can only be truly felt where there is content at home to receive it. A mind distracted with worldly cares and desires, the gratification of which arises from without, and is dependent on the wdl of others, on casualty or caprice, can never be sufficiently disengaged to admit that fellowship of feeling which associates its own tranquilUty with the beauty and harmony of nature. There must be rest in the soul to enjoy it in the fields ; and there it wiU be found, like that peace of mind which passeth aU understanding, that the world can neither give nor take away, a constant source of the most enduring pleasures. Browne, the poet, was fuUy alive to this feeUng, XXII.] . BROWNE THE POET. 7 when he celebrated, in the numbers of pure English verse, the pastoral deUghts of his " native Tavy," as he calls the river that watered the to^vn where he first di-ew breath. The associations created by poetry never die : they are like the immortal spirit to whose aspirations they owe their • birth, above the things of this life, and are neither Uable to the chances nor changes of fortune. To live in a neighbourhood that has given birth to a poet, that has seen him in his infancy sporting amidst its hills and vaUeys, and receiving by its "voiceful streams" those early impressions which, in after and maturer years, be come the theme of his song, is a circumstance, in itself, enough to inspire even a common mind with some of those better feeUngs that have no part with the world, or the world's law. On this account, had Tavistock no other claim to veneration — as the birth place of Browne, the author of Britannia's Pas torals, it would stand eminent amongst towns. With what feelings its picturesque situation inspired the youthful poet, even these simple lines (which more by chance than design have just met my eye, in turning over the pages of his works) may serve to teU. As (woo'd by Maye's delights) I have been borne To take the kind ayre of a wistfuU morne Neere Tavie's voyceful streame (to whom I owe More straines than from my pipe can ever flowe ;) Here have I heard a sweet bird never Iin To chide the river for his clam'rous din ; There seem'd another in his song to tell. That what the fayre streame did he liked well ; And going further heard Another loo All varying still in what the others doe ; Alittle thence, a fourth with little paine Con'd all their lessons and then sting againe; 8 THE NIGHTINGALE. [lET. So numberlesse the songsters are that sing In the sweet groves of the too careless spring, That I no sooner could the hearing lose Of orte of them, but straight another rose And perching deftly on a quaking spray Nye tired herself to make her hearer stay, Whilst in a bush two nightingales together Show'd thebest skill they had to draw me thither.' Browne's allusion to the nightingale, in these Unes, must either have been a poetical license, or some change must have taken place in the natural history of Devon since his day; as that bird is now un known in our county. ' White attributes the failure of it, with us, not to want of warmth, as the west is the mildest part of the whole island ; but considers it a presumptive argument that this bird crosses over from the continent at the narrowest passage, and strolls not so far westward. Some naturalists, however, conclude that we are wanting in the pecu Uar kind of food on which the nightingale delights to feed. I shall not enter here upon any individual local descriptions ; because, as in the letters about Dart moor, it will, I think, be more amusing to blend all such accounts with the historical and antiquarian notices, as they may occur. Thus, for instance, when I shall have occasion to speak of the great Sir Francis Drake, it will be time ejiough to mention the beautiful spot in which he was born about a mile from our town. Something must previously be said of the early history of this place ; and the British period having already occupied many letters in relation to the moor, the Saxon comes next in suc- session ; as very little is known of the Roman era in this part of England. XXII.] CHRISTIANS OF THE DAMNONIA. 9 Indeed Tavistock is so intimately connected with the Anglo-Saxon times, that many persons, perhaps, would have commenced at that period; since not only to a Saxon noble was the town indebted for its costly abbey, but here, also, was that language studied and taught after it had become obsolete in every other part of the kingdom. Here, too, the daughter of the founder of that abbey, the unworthy wife of Ethelwold, the queen of Edgar, the cruel step-mother of his son — the beautiful Elfrida, first drew breath ; and here was acted the scene of that interview, which awakened in the heart of the young king a guilty passion that prompted him to commit the crimes of treachery and murder. The foundation of the Abbey of Tavistock was a thing of so much importance, not only to the town, but in the ecclesiastical history of the county, that it becomes necessary here to offer a few brief re marks on the progress of Christianity in the west, which inspired the kings of Wessex and the earls of Devon with that piety and zeal for the church, so beneficial in its day, and so productive of good, be fore those corruptions gradually crept in which ren dered the reformation absolutely necessary to restore the ceremonies, as weU as the doctrines of our re Ugion, to their primitive purity and spirit. At what period Christianity was first propagated in Damnonia, or by whom, is not, I believe, known with any degree of certainty : but, from the circum stance of the ancient Britons making Cornwall one of the strong-holds of their retreat, it is probable, as the remnant of the bards and Druids stih lingered with that people, that paganism might have main tained its sway in the west, when it was no longer b3 10 EFFECTS OF ROMAN CIVILIZATION. [lET. to be found in the mid-land, or other parts of Britain *. It seems doubtful if Christianity was here propa gated previous to the Saxon conquest; though it is highly probable the natives of Devon benefited in civiUzation after the Roman power was estabUshed in these kingdoms. The Romans were stem foes, but generous conquerors; and the nations they sub dued were not left by them, as by the barbarous hordes of the north in their achievements, with no other mark than that of destruction to mtness their victories. The useful and even the elegant arts of life came with them : the very ensign they bore — the eagle — a noble and a royal bird, as truly de noted the high character of their conquests, as did the banner of the raven, that dark bird of prey, pre figure the destructive victories of the cruel Danes. Though the Damnonu cannot be supposed to have acquired that degree of civiUzation which Avould have rendered them equal to their Roman victors in the general refinement of their manners, yet the dis countenance, and, as far as it could be efi'ected, the ex tirpation of the rites of Druidism, answered a good " A few days after the above passage was written, a letter I had the honour of receiving from Mr. Southey confirmed the opinion here expressed; that gentleman says — "Perhaps the Western Britons were less disturbed by wars than any other people in the island, during the whole time of the Heptarchy. They bordered only upon Wessex, which was generally the best governed of the Anglo-Saxon kingdoms, was strong enough, for the most part, to make them quiet neighbours ; and was too much occupied on other sides to think of molesting them. Exeter continued long to be a half Welsh town, just as Fiiburg, in Switzerland, is still divided between the two languages. During such a state of things, thS bards had leisure to keep up the old religion in all its forms, and make the last stand against Christianity." XXII.] BENEFITS OF CIVILIZATION. 11 end, by lessening the fi-equency of human sacri • fices. The people, who had been accustomed to witness this wanton immolation of their fellow-crea tures, became less barbarous : murder ceased to be a spectacle; the keen relish for human blood, which in all nations such savage rites never fail to create, died away ; and the first noisome weed that would have impeded the growth of the good seed being thus, by divine Providence, cast out, the ground was graduaUy prepared to receive the future blessings of the tree of life : a tree which once hav ing taken root in this island, though grievously assailed by subsequent storms and tempests ; though its branches were lopped off, or consumed in the fire, yet, watered by the blood of saints and martyrs, has never been withered, or torn from the soil ; but has flourished, and, with God's blessing, still shall flourish, unskaken by those infidel hands, which, even in our days, would raise themselves to level its sacred head with the dust. However much of superstition, or of fraud, there might have been in the church at a very early period, yet, even in its corrupt state, its benefits were in calculably great to a land that had so long been buried in the darkness and cruelties of paganism. Christianity, in every country where it takes root, as its first friiits, improves the -wretched estate of the slave, the poor, and the women ; since, by teach ing man that he is a responsible being, it makes him become a reasonable one. How great must have beeh the change in Britain produced by planting the doctrines of Christ in Ueu of those which were said to be derived from Odin or from Belus, when the one true and only sacrifice, the Son of God himself. 12 AUGING. [let. once offered on the cross for the sins of the whole world, was taught instead of the cruel butcheries, which, like those of their eastern ancestors, were " Abominations ! and with cursed things His holy rites and solemn feasts profaned, And with their darkness durst atFront his light. First Moloch, horrid king, besmear'd with blood — Of human sacrifice and parents' tears !" The barbarisms too of divination, of consulting the entrails of human beings and of animals, whilst they were yet panting under the knife, were abolished. This custom had, no doubt, its origin in that restless desire of man (the strong and natural proof of his immortality) to penetrate beyond the veil which lies between him and his future destiny. With no people was this desire more apparent than vvith the ancient Britons, who undertook no wars, or actions of any import, Avithout consulting the lots or augury of the priests. Christianity rooted out this pre sumptuous and vain inquiry, and taught men to trust Him for the disposal of the future, who can alone direct all events Avith an unerring hand. To draw a comparison between sacred and pro fane things, it might be said of the early Chi-istian Missionary in his overthrow of augury, and preach ing the glad tidings of the gospel in its stead, that like Prometheus, as he is made to recite his acts by the poet ^schylus, he took from man the power of searching out his future destiny, but gave him a far better boon — even Hope in its stead. Surely this Avas a very just and beautiful allegory in the Greek dramatist ; since, could men know the miseries they will suffer in their progress through life, the source of honourable or necessary exertion would become XXII.] FIRST EPISCOPAL SEE. 13 dried up and barren; but Hope, as a perennial fountain, plays on from an exhaustless spring, and affords her refreshing draughts to the pilgrim, of the world, even to the last and closing hour of his weary joui'ney toAvards the tomb. After the Anglo-Saxons Avere settled in this part of the island, Christianity vvas first propagated in the kingdom of Wessex, during the reign of Cyne- gils, by Byrinus (A. D. 634), Avho, finding- the people idolaters, undertook their conversion Avith the sanc tion of Pope Honorius. The first episcopal see was in the city of Dorcester, not the Roman station^ but, according to Fuller, an old city in Oxfordshire, Avhere a church was erected. On the death of Byri nus, the kingdom in Avhich he had planted the good seed Avas cruelly torn and divided ; for that fierce idolater Penda, king of Mercia, invaded and con quered it ; and not till the rightful and Christian heir of the croAvn Avas restored, did Wessex again taste the blessings of peace and of the gospel. Se veral worthy ecclesiastics were now favoured by the prince, and received by the people ; and the spirit of God, " mighty in word and works," Avas every where spread abroad with the happiest effects. Many churches were built, and the magnificent structure, Winchester Cathedral, Avas first com menced by Cenowalch, Avho there fixed Wina as its bishop. The civil wars Avhich succeeded the death of the king, though they might for a while impede the growth, did not extirpate the fruits of Christian ity, and soon after the kingdom being divided into two dioceses, Winchester and Sherborne, Devonshire, in ecclesiastical matters, came under the jurisdiction 14 • TAVISTOCK ABBEY. [lET. of the latter. Good Bishop Aldhglm then fiUed the see, and ruled with great prudence, learning and piety. In process of time Devonshire had bishops of its own, who were stationed at Tawton, Crediton, and Exeter. The first Bishops, Werstanus and Putta, were appointed about the beginning of the tenth century; the last-named met Avith a violent death; since, on visiting at Crediton an officer of the royal household, from some unknoAvn cause, he Avas slain by one of Uffa's men. Putta Avas succeeded by Eadulphus, Ethelgarus, and Algarus. The last having sat ten years, gave up his see to Alfodus, in conseqiience of the strenuous exertions of the famous St. Dunstan. This occrn'red about the year 9f)2. He Avas succeeded in 970 by Alfwolgus. It must, therefore, have been during the time of Bishop Al garus, and of Edgar, king of Wessex; that Tavistock Abbey was first founded by Orgar, Earl, or Herotoge of Devon. That once magnificent abbey is now in ruins ; — the Avriter of this letter dAvells Avithin the boundary of its venerable walls ; nor is that dwelling, though become familiar by long use, unassociated -with those recollections which render such a habitation replete with local interest and feeling. The gi'ey walls ; the mouldering toAver with its ruined Avindows, once gor geous in the gloAving hues of their stained glass, through whose, empty space the Avind now whistles in melancholy cadence ; the " ivy-mantled " arch ; the Avinding steps ; the entry, strewn Avith fragments of those columns which once upheld the stately roof, where noAV the bat Avaves her dusky Aving, and aU of former times is silent, or forgotten, saving the whis perings of superstition, that have peopled even this XXII.] EARL ORGAR. 15 poor archAvay with the ghosts of the dead ! — are aU objects that cannot be contemplated Avithout some thoughts that lead us to dwell on the rapid flight of time ; the mutability of governments ; the passions of men, and their Adolence even in a just cause — for the greater part of the ruin before our eyes was the work of the Reformation. Who but would lament this, when he reflects hoAV much there is of evil that mingles itself Avith human actions, however good may be their aim ! We see the effects of those passions which exceeded the limits of reason or necessity, and but hastened that decay Avhich is the final doom of all things here on earth. This is a lesson that may be taught even by such speechless monitors as these old abbey Avails. We look on the last fragment noAV left of the abbey church itself,* and caU up the remembrance of Avhat it Avas in the strength and beauty of its early days, — a holy fane, stately in every proportion, decorated Avith every ornament the sculptor's art could supply, and hung with jeAvelled pomp, bestowed by nobles and kings, to render it a temple fitted, in outward splendour, to the Avorship of Him in Avhose keeping are the hearts of kings, and from Avhose hand the royal crown is placed upon their brows. Orgar, to whose munificence the Western Church was indebted for the abbey, which, no doubt, gave rise to the wealth and importance of the town, Avas born in or near TaA-istock, and held the rank and office of earl, or alderman, of Devon. The court in which an earl presided met tAvice a year, after Mi chaelmas and Easter ; it Avas composed of the free holders of the shire, who had a voice in the decisions. * The archway,' said to be Orgar's tomb. 16 WISDOM OF ALFRED. [lET. The bishop also presided in it with the earl, (so early was the spiritual combined Avith the civil authorities in this kingdom,) Avhose rank was the highest in the order of thanes. Before the time of Alfred the Great this nobleman ruled in the county Avith the power of a petty king, since all affairs, civil as well as military, Avere Avithin his absolute control. Such power Al fred, Avith that Avisdom which distinguished all his actions and his laws, considered too much to be vested in the person of any subject; and, as some counterpoise, he appointed a sheriff in each shire, who, in all matters of jurisprudence, should have an equal authority, and should guard the dues of the croAVTi from any abuses or misappropriation. During the early periods of the Heptarchy the sovereign might nominate the earl of a county, and could deprive him of his rank, if he wilfully suffered a notorious robber to escape justice ; but in process of time he was more frequently elected at the shire gemot, a general court, by the voice of the fi'eehold- ers of land ; and Alfred, who was so true a friend to liberty that he left it recorded in his Avill, that a native of England "should be free as his own thoughts," Avas nevertheless too Avise to fancy that real liberty could be long maintained if it degene rated into licentiousness. He supported, therefore, the full power vested in the freeholder of land, Avho had a stake in the country ; but never did he suffer power to fall into the hands of the mob, certain that the base in spirit Avill ever be the turbulent in action ; and therefore, even for their own sakes, ought to be held in subjection. Well would it be for modern po liticians (thoiigh to say so uoav is an offence), did they think it possible they might be taught some Avisdom XXII.] ANCIENT OFFICE OF EARL., 17 even by our Saxon ancestors ; for though the mob may now be more enUghtened, yet whether they have learned to know Avhat is good for themselves may yet be questionable ; and unless morals keep pace with knowledge, the acquisition ofthe latter Avill but teach them to act their " old sins " Avith more cunning, but not Avith less ferocity, or with less ill effects than in the most barbarous times. In proof of this, Avitness the French Revolution of forty years ago, when the mob of enlightened Paris and else- Avhere bathed themselves in blood, as if in their na tural element. The office of earl Avas not at first hereditary, though in process of years it became such by the increasing fitness, learning, and wealth of the aristocracy. In times of Avar the earl assumed the title of duke, or heretoge, a title which signified a leader.* He Avas a member also of the Wittenagemote, or assembly of Avise men, the parhament of the Anglo-Saxons. Such was the rank and office of Orgar, the founder of our abbey, the father of Elfrida ; and ere Ave turn to the history of that monastic building, it Avill be proper to say something respecting that of the earl and his celebrated daughter. Indeed, the story of Elfrida forms so striking a feature in the history of this place, and as one par ticular event connected Avith it has been a subject of discussion Arith antiquaries, there needs no apology for here reverting even to those very circumstances which are already so well known. The daughter of Orgar, Earl of Devon, had ac quired such reputation for her charms, that it excited the curiosity and interest of the king, whose passion- * Heretoge or Duke; words which, the former derived from the Saxon, and the latter from the Latin, equally signify a leader. 18 STORY OF ELFRIDA [lET. ate admiration of beauty had already induced him to commit many immoral actions, which Dunstan (then Archbishop of Canterbury, and the keeper of his conscience) let pass on terms of easy reprehen sion ; though for a marriage contracted within what the Church of Rome pleased to consider a prohibited degree, he had, in the former reign, persecuted Arith the utmost bitterness the youthful and royal pair, EdAvy and Elgiva. But Edgar was more friendly to the vieAvs of the primate, and to the monks; and was, also, as hard upon the married clergy as Dun stan could desire he should be. To treat, therefore, his amours Avith lenity, or to absolve them on the easiest possible penance, might have been consi dered as a grateful return for obUgations such as these. In order to satisfy his curiosity, Edgar deputed his friend and favourite. Earl Ethelwold, to visit El frida at her father's palace, Avhich was situated in or near Tavistock; and Ethehvold, as we shaU pre sently find, being considerably older than the young lady, perhaps there was not so much imprudence in the act as, on the first view, might be suspected. The object of the favourite's journey was to ascertain if she might really be possessed of that surpassing beauty which fame had ascribed to her, and if so, to offer her, on the part of the king, a croAvn, as queen and consort of England. We see, by this, that Edgar must have entertained a very good opinion of his friend's taste; and Ave also see that he acted quite in character, and evinced no other desire in taking a Arife than of finding her very handsome. Such a motive, when it stands alone, has nothing in it of that delicacy which gives grace and dignity to the youthful passion of love ; since we hear nothing XXII.] AND ETHELWOLD. 19 of Edgar's being anxious to ascertain if she were good as weU as fair, and possessed those amiable ¦qualities of mind, which are beauties of so high an order, that they will not only survive the attractions of outward form and feature, but render Avoman in her decline scarcely less dear and estimable than in the blossom or flower of her youth. Ethelwold, no doubt, set off with every intention to execute his charge honestly towards the king; but the poet Avrites — " Friendship is constant in all other things, ' Save in the office and affairs of love : Therefore all hearts in love use their own tongues. Let every eye negotiate for itself, And trust no agent ; for beauty is a witch Against whose charms faith melteth into blood." Edgar had yet to learn this lesson, and Shakspeare was not then born to teach it. The court of Orgar, equal in splendour to that of many of the Saxon princes, received its greatest lustre from the personal character of its lord. Mu nificent and courteous, zealous for the church, brave and noble, Orgar, indeed, was a man whose alUance might be sought by Edgar as one the most honour able the age and the kingdom could afford. Nor was he, at this period, less happy in his domestic than in his pubhc fortunes. His son Ordulph, of gigantic stature and strength,* possessed a courage not infe rior in proportion to those extraordinary physical powers with which it was combined. He was, also, of such eminent piety that, according to the monkish historians. Heaven deigned to visit him Avith visions and dreams ; to one of Avhich, hereafter to be told, • The thigh bone of Ordulph is still preserved in Tavistock church. 20 STORY OF ELFRIDA [lET. we are indebted for the foundation of our abbey on the banks of his native Tavy. Elfrida Avas the only daughter of this illustrious earl. Young, lovely, and living in comparative se clusion under Orgar's care, amidst the shadowy ffroves and sweet retirement of Devon, she had not yet known those temptations, which, in after years, awaking in her bosom the passions of pride, self-will, and ambition, led her, step by step, to the commis sion of those foul crimes that, however much her outward form might resemble a spirit of light, cast over her soul a darkness that rendered it fit for those regions Avhere hope never comes. At the time Ethelwold first beheld her, it is most likely he saw nothing in her that could lead him to suspect she vvas less amiable than beautiful. Pie saw and loved her for her surpassing fairness. Beauty is considered by moralists and divines as a dangerous gift : no doubt it is so unless it is go verned by those precepts of virtue and religion Avhich render it harmless. Yet, Avhen thus governed, surely, as the gift of God, it must be numbered amongst his blessings. There is a law to regulate all things of the earth and of the spirit. The " hea venly arch " that hangs above our heads, and com passes the Avhole celestial spheres, is beautiful with order and Arith light, and, as tho stay of all creation, is obedient to the Hand that raised it. That " hea venly arch" exalts not itself, but its Maker. So should it be Avith human beauty ; and, Avhen so con sidered, to condemn the fair gift of an infinite and wise Disposer of all gifts is as great a folly as it would be to censure, or to look Avith indifference on a de Ughtful landscape, or to prefer the hard and barren XXII.] AND ETHELWOLD. 21 ground to mountain and valley clothed Arith Avood, and lovely in the mantle of its verdure and its flow ers. It is the pride, the contempt, the vain heart and the wandering eye, to which ill-governed beauty so often gives birth, that becomes an offence to God, and injurious to man, not the thing itself. Had Elfrida remembered that she Avas formed after the image of her Creator ; that her body might be as a temple, pure and fitted for His holy spirit, she might have lived and died in innocence, and have even taken a harmless deUght in her OAvn loveliness the same as a child may do, who smiles to see its own rosy smiles reflected in a glass. Ethehvold thus captivated by her charms, unmind ful of his ' honour and unfaithful to his trust, de manded her hand not for Edgar, but himself. Orgar, ignorant of the more elevated fortune to which his daughter was justly entitled by the intentions of the king, and ih aU probability deeming his favourite an advantageous match for her, consented, provided Ethelwold might gain Edgar's approval of the mar riage. Besides the respect Avhich Orgar Avished to shoAV the king, there might be some policy in thus referring to him to sanction the proposal of the favourite ; since the time had not yet arrived that rendered a Saxon earl of a shire in a great measure independent of any authority higher than his OAvn. The king had then the power to nominate the alder man of a county ; the office Avas not yet hereditary in its succession ; so that the reigning prince might become troublesome should he take offence at any act that bordered on too much independence of his wiU. To obtain Edgar's consent to marry the very 22 STORY OF ELFRIDA [lET. woman Ethelwold had been deputed to visit on his account, must have been a difficulty which none but a crafty man Avould have attempted; as, by a fair statement of the case, the enamoured earl must have been certain such consent would be withheld. De spairing of success by honest means, Ethehvold had recourse to artifice : and as such schemes generally end in open shame or misery, even so was it in this instance ; since, in obtaining his object by falsehood, he did but eventually " commend the poisoned cha- Uce to his own Ups." He now abused the king's ear with the report, that though Elfrida was fair, her beauty was not equal to the celebrity it had acquired ; no doubt her rank and fortune had been the cause of her personal attractions being thus magnified by the common voice of fame. And he took occasion to intimate, that though such advan tages could be of no value to the king, they would be of great benefit to a nobleman of his court, and finaUy requested permission to marry her himself, as a means of raising his fortune. The king, sus pecting no deceit, consented ; and the marriage was solemnized; but Ethelwold, fearful of the conse quence, held his bride in the utmost seclusion in Devon, lest, meeting the eye of Edgar, her fair face should at once betray the artifice by which he had made her his own. But however much he might labour to hide it, Ethelwold's falsehood could not long be concealed. Some, no doubt, were glad to avail themselves of this fault, to effect his downfaU; for never was a king's favourite yet found without enemies. The sUghted or discontented courtiers hate him from envy; the ambitious desire his removal to make XXU.] AND ETHELWOLD. 23 way for themselves; and the vulgar, who fear to fasten their complaints on a higher quarter, wiU assign to his influence most acts of misgovernment and ascribe to him whatever motive may suit their own humours. No sooner had Edgar received the intimation that his confidence had been abused, than he resolved to discover the truth. For this purpose he went to Exeter; and thence sent word to the Earl of Devon, Arith Avhom Elfrida and her husband were residing, that, he designed speedily to be Avith him, to hunt in the forest of Dartmoor adjoining. The guilty Ethelwold, suspecting the true cause of the royal visit, noAV found that confidence which had enabled him to act with such dupUcity, in a moment forsake him : he had no resource left ; but, acquainting his Arife Arith the truth, entreated her by the plainness of her dress, to conceal her charms as much as possible from the eyes of a monarch whose susceptible and Ught disposition would so little enable him to resist them. Elfrida promised compliance ; but, prompted by vanity, and by resentment towards her husband for haidng been the means to deprive her of a crown, she used every art to set forth her beauty to the greatest advantage, and inflamed the king Arith so violent a passion, that he resolved to revenge him self on his perfidious favourite. On the foUoAring moming, Avhilst they were hunting, he watched an opportunity, and taking Ethelwpld at an advantage, slew him ; and at a place in Dartmoor forest called Wilverley, since Warlwood, the earl was found slain with an arrow, or, according to Malmesbury, run through the body Arith a javeUn. That historian, also, states, that the iUegitimate 24 STORY OF ELFRIDA [' LET. son of Ethehvold approached the king immediately after the commission of his father's murder, and on Edgar's asking him "How he liked that kind of game?" barbarously and servilely repUed, "Well, my sovereign liege ; I ought not to be displeased with that Avhich pleases you." The king, Avho could be brutal enough to put such a question at such a moment to a son, Avas quite capable of being pleased ¦vrith the unnatural answer; and the young man from that hour succeeded to his father's place in the royal favour, which he held tiU the death of that monarch. From the circumstance of this iUegiti mate son being a man grown at the time of his father's death, we may gather that Ethelwold must have been much older than his wife, or his mur derer ; since Edgar, who soon after married Elfrida (probably younger than himself,) lived with her some years, and died at the early age of thirty-two. EdAvard, the child of his first man-iage, succeeded to the throne ; but Elfrida was anxious that her son Ethelred should be king. In consequence of this determination, about four years after Edgar's death, she took an opportunity of ridding Ethelred of the only impediment that stood betAveen him and the " golden round" that she longed to see ghtter upon his brow. For her son-in-law, EdAvard, chancing one day to call at her castle gate, she hastened to re ceive him ; and though the young king refused to alight from his horse, he accepted the stirrup-cup she offered, as the customary mark of hospitaUty. Whilst engaged in drinking, the unfortunate EdAvard Avas, by her order, stabbed in the back, by the hand of a ruffian. He rode off immediately, mortally Avounded; and at length dropped dead from his horse, near the XXII.j MURDER OF ETHELWOLD. 25 door of a poor blind cottager; and the body was found by Elfrida's people, who had pursued Edward by tracking his blood. Thinking to conceal so foul a crime, this cruel step-mother caused the corpse to be throAvn into a Avell; but, a fcAV days after, it Avas discovered and buried. Such was the guilt of this miserable Avoman. It does not appear, however, that she was accessory to the death of Ethehvold. I am aAvare that the place Avhere he fell has become a subject of doubt. I shaU here, therefore, give the different opinions that may be cited, and leave you to determine Avhich ap proaches nearest to the truth. Prince, in his curi ous work, the ' Worthies of Devon,' expressly says, that Earl Ethelwold Avas killed at Wilverley, since Warlwood, in the forest of Dartmoor. There is a place near Dartmoor, to this day called Willsworthy ; and Prince makes this assertion on the authority of 'Risdon's Manuscript Survey of Devon in Tarist.' Risdon's reputation stands so deservedly high as an antiquary, Avho in his day had examined many an cient records, that, from whatever source he derived his opinion, it is AVorthy attention. William of Malmesbury, on the contrary, says that Ethelwold was slain by Edgar whilst hunting " in a wood at JVarewelle, or Harewood, in Dorsetshire." But Browne, the poet, has proved, in the instance of the river Tavy being printed the river Tau, that the printed copies of Malmesbury differed in that point from the manuscript one of " Malmesbury s time," in the possession of his "learned friend Mr. Selden." No doubt this error arose from the carelessness of transcribers ; and if the name of one VOL. II. c 26 MURDER OF ETHELWOLD. [lET. place might be thus erroneously stated, even so might be that of another. Some antiquaries, unacquainted Avith the locaUties of Earl Orgar's territory, and never suspecting any printed copy of Malmesbury could be incorrect, overlooked his error about the county, and, deter mining to keep as close as possible to Devon, placed the scene of Ethelwold's death on the opposite side the river Tamar, at Harewood in Cornwall ! This, I do not hesitate to say, is a most improbable con' jecture; since, in order to reach it, Edgar must have ¦encountered the most formidable difficulties; those of riding many miles about, through forests vast and intricate, and rendered dangerous of access by a river so broad and deep as the Tamar; for no bridge could at any time have existed nearer than Newbridge, a structure of a much later period : whilst on the other hand, the forest of Dartmoor lay contiguous to Tavistock, where Orgar, the father of Elfrida, had a palace; and where Ethelwold and his beautiful Avife were residing with him, Avhen Edgar surprised them by that visit which ended so fatally for the husband. Some ha-^e supposed the woods of Warleigh — and 'certainly -with much better reason than those of Harewood — to have been the scene of the murder. To reach those woods, no river intervened to render access to them either difficult or d^pigerous. Be sides, they were in aU respects fitted for the pleasures of the chase. If, hoAVever, it Avas improbable that Edgar should cross the river into Cornwall to com mit the murder, still less likely is it (as some anti- ¦quaries aver) that he should ride so far as into XXII.] ELFRIDA. 27 Dorsetshire for that purpose. The historian Mal mesbury possibly might have been mistaken when he says that Elfrida built a nunnery at Warewelle, or Harewood in Dorset, on the spot where her husband was slain. After the death of her second husband (the king who IdUed her first) she retired to Corfe Castle, where she caused his unfortunate son to be stabbed at her gate. He rode off, but his body was found in a Avood in Dorsetshire, Might it not there- ¦fore, have been in consequence of this circumstance that, after she was aAvakened to remorse, she erected the nunnery in expiation of so atrocious a crime ? The death of Ethelwold probably cost her no re morse, since there is no evidence that she had any share in that murder*. As a strong confirmation of this opinion, I shall here cite the follovring passage from the Saxon Chronicle. "This year" (978,) "King Edward -was slain at Corfes-geat (Corfe Castle) in the evening of the 15th of the Calends of April, and he was buried at Wareham without any royal honours. No Avorse deed than this had been committed amongst the people of the Angles since they first came to the land of Britainf." Now, Avhen Ave recollect that Malmesbury says Elfrida built her nunnery at Ware- Avelle wood, in Dorsetshire ; that Edward dropt dead -from his horse in a Avood, and was buried as above stated, I cannot help thinking Warewelle and Ware- ham were contiguous, and that the nunnery Avas erected on the spot where his body was found, and not Ethel- "¦ Bapin says Elfrida founded two nunneries as an atonement for . her crimes ; one at Ambresbury in Wilts, and the other at Warewelle or Whorwel in Dorset. t Miss Gurney's translation, ¦ c2 28 ELFRIDA. [let. Avoid.* It is absolutely necessary in all doubtful points to compare one fact Arith another, as the most carefril chronicler Arill sometimes fall into an error ; or mistakes (as BroAvne discovered in Malmes bury) may have been committed for him in tran scription. Whilst in Britanny, by an attentive ex amination of the localities of Auray, we discovered an error made even by Froissart, respecting the spot Avhere the great battle Avas fought betAveen De Blois and De Montfort. For Avant of collating, even Hume committed a mistake about Elfrida ; for, when speaking of her marriage, he says she was the daughter and heir of the Earl of Devon ; this could not have been the case, as her brother Ordulph Avas then liring. Elfrida, about the time she built the nunnery at Warewelle, Avas not only held in execration by the people of England, but she became a prey to a state of remorse bordering on despair. Her alarmed con science represented to her imagination a fiend that Avas ever present before her eyes, on the Avatch to seize her soul to convey it to a place of torture. Her days and nights became horrible ; and she was heard to shriek and Avail, as if endeavouring to escape the gi'asp of this imaginary phantom. She clothed her self Avith such armour as Avas then considered invul nerable to the shafts of infernal maUce — a robe covered Avith crosses : and, giving herself up to the rigors and seclusion of her nunnery, she there died a miserable, but striking example of the retributive * Though Edward the Martyr was buried at M'areham, he did not Itmg rest there; for, in 980, the Saxon Chronicle states that "St. Diinstan and the Alderman j^ilfhere fetched the body of the holy King St. Edward from Wareham, and brought it with great pomp to Shaftesbury." XXII.J ELFRIDA. 29 justice of Heaven, Avhich thus visited her crimes by the bitter and enduring agonies of remorse. Before I quit the subject of EdAvard's murder, I cannot resist giving the foUoAving passage from the Saxon Chronicle, as it serves to shoAV Avitli what just indignation the crime was considered. In speaking of his death, that venerable record says — " His mor tal kinsmen would not avenge him, but his Heavenly Father hath avenged him greatly. His earthly mur derers would have blotted out his meniory from the world, but the avenger, who is above, hath Avidely extended his fame in heaven and earth : and Avhereas they formerly would not boAV down before his liring body, noAV they piteously bend their knees to his dead bones." So universal was the consternation Avith Avhich all Avere seized on hearing of this event, that no man, after such an example of treachery, held his life to be safe. The murder, too, had been committed in violation of the common laAvs of hospitality hitherto considered sacred. Deep drinking, the vice of the age, Avhich both the Saxons and the Danish ma rauders had contributed to render familiar, Avas, for awhile, discontinued ; since no one Avould trust him self in the unguarded posture of partaking of the social, cup, for fear it should be follovved by the blow of an assassin. Hence, as we are told by Malmes bury, each man before he tasted of the "wassail bowl" required a pledge from his companion that he Avould watch over and protect him whilst engaged in the act. By all antiquaries this is considered the origin of the familiar expression of pledging, or de siring another to partake first ofthe cup. I have already alluded to Mason's Elfrida ; and 30 mason's ELFRIDA. {lET: that, foUoAring the popular error, he had laid the scene of his drama in Harewood forest, in Cornwall. TMs, however, is a trifling mistake compared to Miss Seward's ; who, in one of her letters, on visit ing GaAvthorpe Hall, the seat of Lord Harewood, in Yorkshire, talks about " the poignancy of her sensa tions," "Harewood's glassy waters" shining through " tangled brakes in the glens," " expanding into lakes" and " sleeping on lawns," whilst all the charm of these delights she experienced on this "classic ground" (situated in Yorkshire) was conveyed by its connexion with the story and the drama of Elfrida! Mason took liberties enough Arith that istory to destroy almost all historical truth ; and Miss Seward goes a step beyond him : for she, something Uke Mr. Bayes's prologue, Avhere the sun, moon, and earth dance the hays, makes Yorkshire take the place of Devonshire with no more ado than the flourish of a pen. I notice this out of no motive of disparage-. ment to Miss Seward, of whose Avritings (excepting this letter about Harewood) 1 know very little. But she has reputation : and, therefore, so gross an error ought to be remarked, lest it should mislead those who, being under the dominion of " a name," may think what such a lady as Miss Seward asserts must be true. Wishing to refresh my memory respecting what Mason had made ofthe story of Elfrida, I last night read his drama, and his letters on the subject of his composing it on the Greek model; and though his play contains some very beautiful poetry, as I closed the book, I coidd not help feeling the truth of what was so long ago said by Horace— " Incredulus odi." Poems, dramas, and romances, though each, Avhen XXII.] mason's ELFRIDA. 31 founded on historical subjects, affords the greatest delight, should I think, if I may venture to give any opinion, be always made subservient to some useful pui-pose ; and should never falsify the truth of his tory in any reaUy important point. In many works, as the historical plays of Shakspeare, and the histo rical novels of Sir Walter Scott, information and instruction accompany delight. Who, for instance; has ever read Coriolanus or Julius Caesar, without becoming familiarly acquainted with some of the most interesting characters and events of the Roman history? or Henry IV. and Henry VIIL Avithout feeUng as if he Avere living in the very days of those Princes ? And Avho has ever read " Old Mortality," and many other of those masterly and lively fictions, Arithout becoming famiUar with the spirit of the times therein described, and fancying himself carried back to the very scenes in which the characters of the story bore so prominent a part ? But this praise can scarcely be given to Mason, who in his drama of Elfrida preserved little more of truth in his historical characters than their names ; and has consequently perverted facts. He tells us, in his letters, that a chorus ought to be introduced in every tragedy, "to advance the cause of honesty and of truth," and that, for want of this, an audience \riU often go from a play Arith very false impressions. To follow the rule he has thus laid down, he ought to have made his OAvn chorusses in Elfrida have but one burthen to thefr songs, and it should have been — " This story is all false ;" then neither audience nor reader could have mistaken the matter. For if truth be in historical fiction what the soul is to the body — the cause of its usefalness, its ritality, and its in- 32 mason's ELFRIDA. [lET. terest in a moral view, we may say, comparatively, of the flowers of poetry which Mason has so abun dantly scattered throughout his drama of Elfrida, that they are but as flowers scattered upon a corpse. No female character throughout the whole history of this country is stained with a Avorse crime than that of Elfrida : yet Mason represents her as if she had been as gentle and as amiable as a Lady Jane Grey; and as constant and as virtuous in her love to her husband Ethelwold, as a Lady Rachel Russel. Though Elfrida had purposely set off her charms Avith art to allure the king, and became immediately after her husband's death the vrife of his murderer, yet the poet ends the play by making her swear to die a widow for Ethelwold's sake ! and the vow is echoed by the chorus, stationed on the scene to "advance the cause of truth" with the reader or spectator. It may also be remarked, that the poet has gained nothing by thus falsifying historical facts, since the true story is more suited to the muse of tragedy, whose emblems, the dagger and the poi soned bowl, proclaim her to be the queen of terror. It is also more replete with dramatic interest than his alterations ; and if he Avanted fiction, he might have resorted to it Avithout the change of a single event. The monastic character of the times would have opened to him a fine field ; and the supersti tious legends, then so generally credited, would have furnished him Avith a sufficient apology, had he in troduced an old monk, Arith a black coavI and a long beard, who, like the chorus, might have been made a sort of monitor to the passions of the scene ; and Avho, in his prophetic character, (for prophecy and visions Avere common Avith the monks,) might have xxu. J mason's elfrida. 33 Avarned or foretold Elfrida the miseries that Avould follow as the consequences of her pride, her cruelty, and her ambition. But I have done ; for though a little angry with Mason for altering and perverting the story of our Tavistock heroine, no one admires him more than I do ; and if he had never Avritten any thing else, such noble poetry as we find in his Caractacus Avould have placed him in the first rank of modern bai-ds. This letter haring extended much farther than I designed it should when I took up the pen, I must defer the account of the Abbey till another op portunity : in the interval, aUow me to remain. My dear Sir, With respectful esteem. Very faithfully yours, Anna E. Bray. c3 34 LETTER XXIII. TO ROBERT SOUTHEY, ESQ. Contents. — Religious influence on the character of Nations — That of Pagan countries contrasted with Christian — Saxon Church — On the spirit ofthe old Catholic Faith; — Its great benefits to this Coun try — Its defects — Monasteries eminently useful — How beneficial to the education of Youth — Religious Spirit of the Monasteries — Their destruction in this Country deeply deplored — The opinion ot Montesinos on the subject quoted — The subject continued, and the benefit of places of religious retirement further considered — Dis advantages of the Monastic Life to some particular dispositions; to whom dangerous— Credulity the character of former Ages; its opposite of the present — The influence of spiritual agency, ever active though unseen — The dead may appear to the living — Dreams, not on all occasions to be held in contempt — Sometimes show the agency of the Spiiits of God— Addison's opinion of dreams ; Bishop Bull's given — Dreams exaggerated, sometimes iu- ventedby the old Chroniclers — Tavistock Abbey had its origin from a dream— Orgar fotinder of that Abbey — Ordulph his Son— The dream related — Benedictines— Augustines — Ordulph's wonderful acts as related by Malmesbury— A ruined arch described ; the only remaining fragment of the once magnificent Abbey Church of Tavi stock— erroneously called ;Childe's Tomb — Amusing story of old Childe's Horse — Friars of Plymstock — Their ctmuing- Guile Bridge— Abbey, to whom dedicated— St. Rumon ; his History- Abbey Church iinished and dodicated—Ethelred's Charter— Ai mer the first Abbot. Vicarage, Tavistock, June 11, 1832. My DEAR Sir, Before entering upon the history of our Abbey, in its foundation, its prosperity, and its overthroAV, I may, perhaps, be pardoned if I still en- let. xxiii.] NATIONAL CHARACTER. 35 deaA'our, by a few prefatory remarks, to keep in riew the general state of morals and religion, since abbeysj and toAvns, like the fortunes of individuals, are in a very great degree indebted for their prosperity or their decline to the state of the country in Avhich they exist. And I cannot but repeat that in all these let^ ters I bear in mind the possibility that they may one day take their chance in the ¦world of letters. Such being the case, I Avi-ite about many things Avhich I •should not venture to touch upon Arith you, did I not think that, to the mere general reader, they may hereafter be of some little interest. This, therefore, is my apology for Avhat I am now about to say. AU nations throughout the world, more or less, take their character from their religion ; and it fol^ lows, as a necessary consequence, that where true reUgion is best practised and understood, there wiU men become the best and the most enlightened. The gods of barbarous nations are represented as iierce and bloody, and the barbarian is both. Those of Greece and Rome were AvarUke and luxurious, and the people were remarkable for war and luxury. And though they had amongst them a few such ad- .mirable persons as Socrates and Marcus Antoninus, yet the general character of their greatest and thefr best men was essentiaUy different from that of the Christian philosopher. The gentler rirtues, the self-subduing spirit, in culcated by Christianity, which makes forgiveness of an enemjr, and the returning good for evil, duties of the noblest land, Avere unknown ; and we therefore find no such men amongst the heathen worthies as our good Bishop Andrews, our Hooker, our Jeremy Taylor, or those humble and devout martyrs who. 36 SPIRIT OF THE [lET. Avith a courage that equalled any ever displayed by the heroes of antiquity, had yet the meekness and the tenderness of the dove, that beautiful emblem of that holy spirit which dwelt Arithin and sanctified both thefr hearts and minds. In the modern nations of the East Ave find a religion in which tyranny, sensuality, and slavery have each a place ; and the Turks, we knoAV, are remarkable for every one of those rices. To extend similar observations as far as they might be carried would exceed the limits or the purpose for which they are here introduced, since they alone are ventured in support of the opinion, that the better character of the Saxons as a people, and the progi-ess they so rapidly made in civilization, after thefr settlement in this kingdom, must be attributed to their conversion to Chris tianity. We haA'e traced the various modes of worship Avhich were introduced and practised in this part of England from the time of the Britons to that of the Saxons ; and these, like all other diversities of re ligion, shoAV that it is natural in man during this his pilgrimage of labour and sorrow, to look up to some supreme poAver with the eye of hope. But such false creeds had no beneficial effects on his moral character, because they neither enlightened his un derstanding nor touched his heart. The introduction of Christianity was, therefore, in every way a blessing ; and notwithstanding the set ting up traditions and inventions of men as even of more import than the Avritten word of God, rendered it both corrupt and superstitious, yet the history of this country Arill serve to show how powerfully and how happUy, even in this state, Christianity acted on XXIII.] OLD CATHOLIC FAITH. 37 society at large. It was as the dawn of day after a long and black night. But it Avas reserved for the Reformation to dispel every noxious vapour of human opinion that arose from the earth, and to go forth Avith the splendour of an unclouded sun, when there Avas " perfect day." It Avas the observation of Cicero, in censure of the poet, that, instead of raising men to live after the manner of the gods. Homer brought heaven down to earth, and made the gods live after the manner of men. The same kind of censure may be passed on the inventors of the Romish frauds and traditions ; for the things they added to the truth are more of earth than of the spirit, and were most flattering to human passion, whilst, adding many deities to their creed (for surely they made the Virgin and the saints such), they taught them to be propitiated with rich gifts more after the manner of worldly princes than as inhabitants of heaven. There are many who deem it uncharitable to speak thus of a church which acknowledges the Son of God as its Head. Let such, however, have but an ac quaintance Avith the interior of a convent ; let them enter into free conversation with the best and the most rational there bound by irrevocable vows, and if their heart and soul does not sicken at the superstitions they wiU there both hear and see, they can have no just sense of the faith they themselves profess, or of that true charity which, though it may pity the indi viduals Avho are the rictims of such credulity, feels no obligation not to visit Arith severe censure those things which are an offence to God's honour, since they are a perversion of his revealed word. And thus haring endeavoured to show that I am 38 MONASTERIES. [lET- neither dazzled nor misled by the poetic and ima ginative character of the Church of Rome, (for herg is the l^est calculated of all reUgions for poetry and romance,) I shall A^enture a few remarks on the benefits of monastic institutions, as they existed, till we had the pure faith restored to us in this country; If our Protestant faith (as the Romanists charge against it) have more lax members than the old re Ugion, if it have many sectaries, and if, alas, many infidels have sprung up among us since the Reform ation, the fault is not in the thing itself It is a fault that may be charged, perhaps, to an excess of one of its chief vfrtues^ — its perfect toleration; in other words, to its Avant of that severe discipline, (which, Avhilst the Roman faith held sway, aUowed no such practices, by claiming and holding a power over the conscience of all men,) the smallest exercise of which in our church would now be reckoned msuf- ferable tyranny. But no abuse of any thing cau affect the thing itself : medicine is a blessing to man kind, though there are quacks and pretenders who sometimes make it a curse. Bread is the staff" of Ufe, though, as an old Avriter truly observes, its adul teration AvUl make it no better than a crutch to help a man to the grave. That monasteries, in former ages, were eminently usefiil cannot, I think, be denied. In those early times Avhen the art of printing was unknoAvn, aU learn ing Avas found within the cloister. The regularity, the repose, and the leisure of a monastic life Avere absolutely necessary to the preservation and the cul ture of letters. Every monastery, also, had its school, and the norices were, in many instances, scholars. The sons of princes and. nobles were generally edu- XXIII.] . MONASTERIES. 39 cated Arithin the walls ; and no rank or station was held to be above obedience to the church. There youth were instructed, and those habits of submis sion, so salutary in themselves, so necessary for in diridual happiness, (since it is by obeying others that men learn to master their own passions,) were inculcated as a first and essential duty. Youth did not then, Arith the frowardness so often seen in mo dern times, bm'st those restraints which were in tended not to curb the spirit, but the waywardness of unripened years. And age, as in the patri archal state, was looked up to with that deference and respect which wisdom, derived fi-om experience — ^its most certain source — ^is ever entitled to com mand. There is something beautifid in the picture of a young man, Arith aU his ardour, his golden hopes, and airy imaginings, standing silent with modesty, in the presence of the aged, and listening to those counsels that are to guide his future com-se. Regularity, Arithout which there is little profit in study, Avas rigidly enforced by those minute rules . that gave to each hour its appropriate task, its du ties, and its relaxations. Young men of talent, but ¦ Arith half-knowledge, flippancy, and conceit, did not . then fancy that in matters of religion, or of civU go vernment, they could carve out a Avay for themselves that Avould be better than the old road trodden by thefr fathers. There was then Uttle or no infidelity : for the student did not doubt those sacred truths Avhich were above his capacity or his years ; nor did he presume to fix bounds and Umits to the all-Arise pro A'idence of God, or to make the greatest things the least, by measuring them after the standard of his own ignorance. Singularity was not then mistaken 40 MONASTERIES. [lET. for superiority ; consequently it did not raise a false ambition in the weak and the vain to become singular, or to show their oAvn folly in the effort to be wise beyond that Avhich Avas Avritten for their learning. Obedience to rulers, governors, and parents was, Arith them, the promise in the spring-time of their days ; and honour and wisdom became their summer ¦fruits. HoAv beautiful an example have Ave of this in the life of the great and good Sir Thomas More, who always, on first seeing his father for the day, knelt doAvn and reverently begged his blessing. " Train up a child in the way he should go,'" sayS Solomon, " and ¦when he is old he ¦will not depart from it." This Avas done, according to the religion of the times, and the child, from early habit, found sub mission no state of bondage. NothAvithstanding the faults and superstitions of a monastic education, this early habit of obedience, as a religious duty, Avas to it as the salt of the whole ; and the heroes of chivalry Avere thus prepared to foUoAV, Avithout a murmur, through pain, toil, and death, Avherever the call of duty — even though its object might sometimes be mistaken — should sum mon them to appear. The knights who, amid the arid and burning sands of Syria, rescued from in fidels, at the call of a hermit, the sacred sepulchre of Jerusalem, afford a striking instance of that devoted spirit of obedience Avhich men in those times thought it their chief glory to pay to their religion. The little child Avho was to receive education Avent daily to the convent school ; and old age fre quently took the vows, and made choice of its abode Arithin the waUs. . There is something pecuUarly touching in the extremes of human existence. Both XXIII.] MONACHISM. 41 call forth tenderness and pity ; for, in a great mea sure, both are helpless. We surely may consider them as more especially the care of Providence ; since a creature in the dawn of life, or near its close, could not for a single hour sustain, unassisted, his OAvn weakness. To him, Avhose strong desu-es Avere not of the flesh, but fixed on the spirit Avhich is immortal — a spirit which sees God in the sacred ordinances of his church, and listens to those h3nnns and holy psalms that speak his praise, as if they were the responses of "quiring angels," — there was a beauty and a majesty in the house of the Lord, "The temple where His honour dAvelleth," that not the castles of nobles, nor the palaces of princes could afford ; and there he sought his rest. But such a retreat Avas Avelcome, above all, to such as had experienced the losses and cares inse parable to long Ufe : those bereavements of the heart that AVOund it, and weigh doAvn the spirit ; so that the mourner is as one Avho rests at the door of death, and Avaits most wiUingly to enter — and yet it Avill not open to him. All visible objects Avere insuffi cient to afford comfort or consolation to such as these ; till the holy quiet found within the cell gave peace to souls thus Aveary and heavy laden. They had leisure to meditate on God; and fixing his image in their hearts, the void occasioned by time was fiUed with the things of eternity. In the cloister, too, the sage, Avhose learned toils had no earthly praise for their object, and no reAvard but that with which such sweet labours repay them selves, felt, as he contemplated the emblems of the sacred sufferings before his eyes, that all human 42 MONACHISM. [let. knowledge, in whatever path pursued, has but one desired end — to know Jesus Christ and him crucified for the sins of the whole Avorld. Kings " worn with the cares of state," sometimes came to end their days, and "lay thefr bones" within these monastic waUs, and cast down thefr croAvns at the foot of Him whose diadem Avas one of thorns. The poor, the abject, the despised, the very beggar who took his alms, and left his benizon at the convent door, as he lay prostrate before the cross, felt how ennobling was the humility of a Christian — a humility that raised him from earth to heaven. Such, perhaps, is the fafr side of the picture, in the earUest and the best state of monachism, before those gross superstitions and frauds — which gra dually crept in — produced its ruin in this country ; and, but for such crimes, these institutions might, even to this day, have been spared, in a Umited degree, as a refuge and a blessing to the old, the learned, the pious, and the friendless. " Hermits," says Sir Thomas More, " as well as monks, Montesinos, have been useful in their day. Your state of society is not the better because it provides no places of religious retirement for those who desire and need it." " Certainly not," repUes Montesinos, " I consi' der the dissolution of the reUgious houses as the greatest evil that accompanied the Reformation." " Take from such communities," says Sir Thomas More, "thefr irrevocable voavs, their onerous laws, their ascetic practices; cast aAvay their mythology, and Avith it the fi-auds and foUies connected there with, and how beneficial would they then be found ! What opportunities would they afford to Uterature, XXIII.] MONACHISM. 43 what aid to devotion, what refuge to affliction, what consolation to humanity." "And what relief to society," adds Montesinos, " which as it becomes more crowded in its walks, and as education and inteUigence are more and more diffused, must, in every succeeding generation, feel more pressingly the want of such institutions !" And after stating the erils to which in Roman CathoUc countries nunneries are Uable, and shewing that, but for the "weighty advantages" which accompany them, they would not be tolerated even in such lands of superstition, he concludes with this most just observation : " How easily might those advan tages be obtained in communities founded upon the principles of our own church, and liable to no such erils*." Certain it is that a state of seclusion never was, and never AriU be suited to all tempers and minds. The great evil of monachism was its want of discri mination in this respect. If temporary disgust, some present care, or some worldly interest, had been the cause of consigning a human being to the convent walls, and those cfrcumstances passing away, for gotten or reconciled, he grew tired of his retreat, and Avould gladly have returned again to take a part more congenial to liis natural character in actiA'e Ufe, his " irrevocable vows" became to him a chain of adamant, that held him, like Prometheus bound to a rock, Avhilst discontent, as a vxdture, preyed upon his heart. Thus Avas his retreat a state of slavery, not of profit, or of devotion ; and he was as Avorthless to others as he was miserable to himself; * See Colloquies ou the Progress and Prospects of Society. Vol. i. page 338. 44 EVILS OF MONACHISM. [lET. since a large degriee of mental ease, of comparative happiness, is necessary to render men useful in society ; a despairing can never be an active mind, for a withered tree bears no fruit. Another eril attending the monastic rule was, that the recluse Avas more freed than he ought to have been from the numberless minor duties and occupations of daily life that are so salutary even to the most gifted minds ; and, to ordinary ones, are as necessary to keep them in health, as exercise is to the body, or sleep to the composure of the spirits. To have the mind always bent on high thoughts, on the inrisible world or its mysteries, never can be consistent with the designs of nature ; since more than half the business of human life turns on the performance of small matters of necessity, so regular in themselves, that, whilst there is A'ariety enough to prevent satiety, they are sufficiently me chanical in their order and recurrence to become easy in practice : they cost no effort, and give iio pain. And there is not a greater sign of a Uttle mind than the affectation of despising little duties. Dr. Johnson, whose vrisdom as a philosopher Avas, if possible, only exceeded by his Avorth as a man, considered that one chief cause of there being fewer women who lost their reason than men, arose from their frequent occupation with the needle, a thing to Avhich they could at all times turn, and almost under any circumstances. In this he shewed his correct knoAvledge of human nature ; since minor employ ments, that caU forth just so much exertion of the faculties as may prevent them from wandering or standing still, and that alternate Avith those requiring a more severe appUcation of the mind, are of the XXIII.J EVILS OF MONACHISM. 45 highest benefit to every age and sex. The advan tages of such relaxations may be seen in children ; for the dviUest boys are seldom those who pursue their sports and pastimes with actirity and delight. Indeed, to make a child stupid, there is, perhaps, no surer mode than to deprive him of his hours of play, and of those little toils in its pursuit which he im poses upon himself. Thus did the idleness of the monastic life, Avith its ordinary members, prepare the way for many erils : for if a recluse, Avhen he became such, had no pursuit, and foAV ideas, he Avas very likely to have those few turned on mischief; since, however a man may be shut out from the Avorld, unless he can shut out the vacancy of seclusion also it Arill become dan gerous to him ; and the lurking aptness for evil in his OAvn nature will lead him into folly or to sin ; for " slothfulness casteth into a deep sleep," Avhich, in a moral riew, too often becomes the sleep of death. But perhaps the greatest dangers of a state of seclusion were experienced by those who, possessing a A-irid imagination, Avould not confine its exercise to the right objects of faith, but larished it upon those mysteries of God which are beyond "this A'isible diurnal sphere." Imagination is like Avine, a draught to SAveeten life, or to drown reason — all depending on the measure of indulgence. To speak of this high faculty in a figurative manner, her power is regal, and the passions stand as servants around her, in due subjection to her Arill; but if once she per mits them to exceed the bounds of reason, they will hurry her along with them in their Avild career; madness or superstition seizing upon her as a slave. The Avanderings, the perversions of the mind, no 46 EVILS OF MONACHISM. [LET. doubt produced many of those extravagancies and disorders which have taken place in the worship of that Being who is the life and soul of order ; and who shows forth the greatness of His power in his calm but irresistible course. Yet how miserably was the nature of God mistaken by those ascetic devotees Avho fancied, in the darkness of their credulity, that voluntary misery could be pleasing to Him; and who, in the melancholy, or the madness of thefr own mood, dAvelt on the visions of a distempered imagi nation, and gave them forth as the immediate reve lations of Heaven ! To some such causes, as weU as to actual fraud, may be attributed those false visions and miracles that disgrace the lives of the Romish saints and martyrs, and render the pages of the monkish chroniclers in many instances not much better than a garden so encumbered with weeds as to make it difficult to separate from them Avhatever plant is of a useful or a Avholesomekind. But though, during the early ages, it was the ge neral practice to ascribe remarkable events to some supernatural cause, Ave must not hastily conclude that all records of such a nature were fictions. It was the character of former ages to beUeve too much ; of our own, to believe too little : their rice was that of credulity ; ours, of infideUty : for men now are become so wise, at least in their own con ceit, that Avhat they cannot understand they wUl not credit, and what is above reason they deem con trary to it. Yet so little do we really know concern ing our own faculties, and of those things which, ; though before our eyes, we have no power to pene trate, that -it should make us cautious how Ave judge of the ways of God. There are spfrits who walk the XXIII.] SPIRITUAL AGENCY. 47 air as we do the earth ; there are inteUigences every Avhere about us that, as Aringed messengers of God, perform His will, and yet we neither see nor under stand them. To say, therefore, that such spirits have not, and cannot, at His command become A'isible to mortal eyes, or that the spirits of the de parted never rerisit the earth, is to limit God's power by the measure of our own faculties. All things are instrmnents of his Providence; and it is not our place to say which he may choose, or which he may reject, to fulfil his oavu unerring purposes. The dead may appear as they have appeared on earth ; and who shall say it cannot be so ? How raany strong and right impulses sway the mind of him who seeks God, Avho knocks and it is opened to him ; that prove themselves, in their results, to be no other than the secret counsels of His will for His servant's -good ! And though to credit every idle dream in our sleep would be folly or superstition, yet, to say God has never spoken to us even in a dream would be to contradict the evidence of all history, sacred and profane, and to harden the heart against the witness of our own experience ; and all for fear of a scoff" or a laugh from some one who would be so Arise in his generation as to think God governs the world after the manner of men. But what say the good and the wise, those who ai-e Arise because they are humble, and are as little children before their father ? "I doubt not," says Addison, " that dreams, though known Uars, some times speak the truth." And Bishop Bull (who combated superstition, and was the adversary ofthe learned and eloquent Bossuet) thus Avrites : — " I am no doter on dreams, yet I verily beUeve that some 48 DREAMS. [let. dreams are monitory, above the poAver of fancy, and impressed on us by some superior influence. Nor shall I so value the laughter of sceptics, and the scoff's of Epicureans, as to be ashamed to profess that I myself have had some convincing experiments of such impressions. Now it is no enthusiam ; but the best account that can be given of them is, to ascribe these things to the ministry of those invi sible instruments of God's Proridenoe that guide and govern our affairs and concerns — the angels of God." The remarks here ventured arose from my thoughts haring been turned on the subject of dreams, by finding how much an attention to them was the characteristic of the times about which I am noAV to Avrite ; and as I considered it Avas my duty to notice such characteristic, I trust they will not be found entirely misplaced ; and that I shall not my self be Uable to the charge of superstition, because I am not altogether sceptical on subjects that have so much eridence on their side. I could plead another thing as my apology, and that comes immediately in point ; for the foundation of our Abbey is ascribed, according to the Cartulary of Tavistock, to a rision or dream; though it is one of so marvellous and monkish a kind, that I doubt not you \rill agree Avith me in thinking it had its origin in the customary practice and credulity of the chroniclers of the age. Be this as it may, after consulting all the authorities I can here command, and some original notes, (and extracts fi-om various Avi-iters,) made by Mr. Bray, I shall now proceed to glean from the whole the sum and substance of the following wonderful tale. I must first observe, however, that Orgar, Earl of •XXIII.] ordulph's VISION. 49 Devon, died A. d. 971, and Avas interred in the abbey church of Taristock, where his tomb, and that of his son Ordulph, MaUnesbury states, were to be seen in his time. As the abbey was commenced in 861, it should appear that, though the idea of its erection originated Arith the son, yet as Orgar Avas then alive, and, indeed, surrived him ten years, he was considered, and Avith good reason too, as its co- founder. Ordulph was a religious and devout man, and rising one night, as Avas his custom, he went out of doors to offer up his prayers. There is something so remarkable in this, (since many of the druidical temples, Ave know, Avere used as places of Avorship Avith the early christians, and on that account Avere long afterwards heldsacred,) that it would almost lead one to suspect that some vestige of this nature Avas the favorite resort of Ordulph forthe purposes of his midnight devotion. Whilst engaged in the act of prayer, he beheld in a rision a glory that seemed to reach fi-om earth to heaven, surpassing the brilliancy of the sun ; and he thought on the goodness of God, who appeared to Moses in the burning bush, and who led forth the children of Israel by day with the pUlar of the cloud, and by night Arith that of fire. Struck Arith awe at this mfraculous appearance, Ordulph again retired to rest, and after shedding many tears, sleep closed his eyes, and he beheld in a dream a "shadow like an angel," whose countenance Avas of exceeding brightness, who accosted him Avith the words — Ae timeas, vir Deo dilecte. The Spfrit then commanded him to rise and erect an oratory on the place where he had seen the glory, and where he should find four rods fixed at right angles, to the VOL. II. D 50 ordulph's monastery. [let. honour of the four evangelists, who had, as on a four-wheeled chariot, spread the word of the gospels throughout the world. On the fulfilment of this command, the angelic messenger promised him the forgiveness of his sins. Starting from sleep, Ordulph related the rision to his Avife ; who affirmed that she had seen the like ; and after saying his prayers devoutly on his knees, he once more composed himself to rest. But the same angelic figure appeared to each a second time, and rebuked the husband for his delay ; teUing him that to obey was better than sacrifice. And the same visitation being a thfrd time repeated on the same night, Ordulph no longer hesitated. Rising, therefore, early in the morning, and reverently making the sign of the cross, he entered a neigh bouring wood, where he found the precise spot that had been revealed to him by the four rods. It was pleasant, open, and every way suited for the purpose ; and there he soon raised an oratory, on the Avestern side of Avhich he afterwards founded a very magni ficent monastery to the honour of Mary the mother of God, and St. Rumon, and so large as to receive a thousand men. To this he added several other houses for the serrice of the monks, and at length he richly endoAved it*. This noble abbey completed, Prince, the author of the ' Worthies of Devon,' says, " he filled it Arith Augustine friars, afterwards, from their habit, caUed black monks." In this, as we * With the manors of Tavistock, Midleton (now Milton), Hather- leigh, Borington, Leghe, Dunethem, Chuvelin, Linkinhorn ; and his wife with the manors of Hame, Werelgete, Orlege, Auri, Rame, Savyoke, Pannaston, Tombire, Colbroke, Lege Wesithetun, and Clymesland . XXIII.] ORDULPH. 51 shall presently see, he must confound the Augustines who first inhabited it, Arith the Benedictines that soon after took their place; since in the earliest times, the former order Avere distinguished by white habits, though a black mantle was long after allowed to them ; whereas the Benedictines, from their very foundation, were clad entfrely in black. There is an old satiric poem extant, a translation of Avhich I have seen, of a very remote age; in Avhich the Avriter, Avhose name I have unfortunately forgotten, having quarreUed Avith the Augustine fi-iars, compares their hypocritical sanctity — for so he styles it — to their dress, and calls them " whited walls," It was my intention to give the passage : but having neglected to make the extract when I read the poem, I have since vainly endeavoured to find it. Ordulph is represented to haA'e been of gigantic stature, and prodigious strength. Travelling to Avards Exeter, Arith King EdAvard the Confessor, to Avhom he was related, when they came to the gates ofthe city they found them locked and barred, and the porter, knowing nothing of their coming, was absent. Upon Avhich Ordulph, leaping off his horse, took the bars in his hands, and Arith great apparent ease broke them in pieces, at the same tiine pulling out part of the wall. Not content Arith this, he gave a second proof of his strength ; for, breaking the hinges with his foot, he laid the gates open. Whilst those who Aritnessed this extraordinary feat could not suppress their admiration, the King, pretending to underrate his prowess, declared it must have been done by the sole power of the devil, and not by the strength of man. However wonderful this story may appear, it is not more so than what Malmesbury d2 52 TOMB OF ORDULPH. [lET. relates of him in another particular — that he Avas of such gigantic stature, that for his amusement he Avould often bestride a river, near his residence, of ten feet broad ; and Arith his knife Avould chop off the heads of such AvUd animals as Avere brought to him, and so cast them into the stream. But notArithstanding the superiority of his strength and stature, Ordulph died in the floAver of his age. He gave orders to be buried at his abbey, at Her- ton, in Dorsetshire ; but Avas interred in or near the abbey church of Tavistock, Avhere a mausoleum or tomb, of vast dimensions, was erected to his memory, Avhich is represented to have been visited as a Avonder. Prince, in his ' Worthies of Devon,' says — " There is nothing noAV remaining of it but an arch, where, as tradition testifies, this mighty tomb stood *. An arch still remains in tolerable preservation on the site of what, there is every reason to believe, had been part of the abbey church. It bears evidently the appearance of a shrine, or sepulchral monument; consisting of a rich and highly relieA'ed moulding, * " Browne Willis tells us, that in his time, the sepulchral effigies of this Saxon giant, of great length, were still preserved by lying under an arch in the north side of the cloisters of the abbey church. This identical arch, as I apprehend, still remains a solitary remnant of the immediate appendages of the abbey church. The architecture of this recess is of the time of Henry III. And as there is no ex ample extant which can lead us to conclude that sepulchral figures were placed over tombs in the middle ages, till the twelfth cenfuiy, and as it was usual to re-edify and remodel the monuments of saints and remarkable persons (of which custom the shrine of Edward the Confessor, now in Westminster Abbey, is a prominent example), Ordulph's tomb, perhaps, underwent a renovation about thia period, and was supplied with a sepulchral effigy."— Notices of Tavistock and its Abbey, by A. J. Kempe, F.S.A. XXIII.] CHILDE OF PLYMSTOCK. 53 supported by three short pillars at either extremity. It is pointed at the top but spreading, and being closed, or built so as to form part of a wall, is crossed just above the capitals of the columns by a range of smaU arches, supported also themselves by a row of httle pillars on a kind of plinth. Though Mr. Bray is rather inclined to consider it as the tomb of Ordulph, it is generally denominated Childe's tomb. And as the story of this latter person, if not true, is at least curious, I shall not scruple to introduce it here. Having no children of his OAvn, and being the last of his house, Avhich was of ancient standing in the county, Childe of Plymstock is said to have made a wUl, Avherein he devised his lands to that church in Avhich he should happen to be buried. Some time after, whilst recreating himself Avith hunt ing in the forest of Dartmoor, he lost both his way and his company, during an inclement season, in a very deep snow. Being surrounded by desolation, and seeing no possible means of escape, he began to think Avhat Avas to be done to keep life and soul together ; and as in his day the acts and miraculous adventures of the clergy and the saints Avere much talked of, it is not impossible he might have called to mind one recorded of Elsinus, the Saxon Bishop of Worcester, Avhen crossing the Alps to receive his pall from the hands of the Pope. Be this as it may, he determined to take up the same kind of lodging the saint and bishop was said to have done ; and so killing his horse, and emboweling him on the spot, old Childe crept into the body for the purpose of procuring a little Avarmth in his distress. But the expedient had not saved a saint, hoAv then could it 54 MONKS OF TAVISTOCK. [lET. be expected to preserve a sinner ? Finding his last hour approach, Childe, in order to confirm his avUI, took some of his OAvn blood, (though one would have thought it was more likely to have been that of his horse,) and made the foUoAving distich in Avriting ; though hoAV he procured pen or paper to do so this wonderful record has forgotten to tell : " He that finds and brings me to my tomb. My land of Plymstock shall be his doom."* Now Avhatever modern critics may think of the rhyme, it soon appeared that the monks of Tavistock found there was reason in it ; and good reason, too, that they should constitute themselves the heirs of old Childe ; for soon hearing that he was fi-ozen to death somewhere near Crockern-tor, they set their Arits and hands to work to give him as speedily as possible an honorable sepulchre. But as the heirship was left thus vague and open to competition, there were others who thought them selves quite as much, if not more, entitled to succeed than the friars ; and these were the good people of Plymstock, in whose parish the lands in question had their standing ; and though not invited to the funeral, yet, out of respect to the old gentleman, or more probably to his acres, they not only determined to inrite themselves, but also to try how far club- laAv might settle the hefrship in thefr favour ; and * Prince, says, in the 'Worthies,' " now something in confirmation hereof I find, that there is a place in the forest of Dartmoor, near Crockern-tor, which is still called Childe of Plymstock's tomb; whereon, we are informed, these verses were engraven, and heretofore seen, though not now : " ' They first that find, and bring me" to my grave, My lands, which are at Plymstock, they shall have.' " XXIII.] ABBEY OF TAVISTOCK. 55 SO taking their post at a certain bridge over which they conceived the corpse must of necessity be carried, they came to the resolution to Avrest the body out of the hands of the holy men by force, if no better settlement of the matter could be effected. The friars, however, were men of peace, and had no mind, may be, to take up any weapon sharper than their Arits; since, as Dr. Fuller says, when speaking of this adventure, " they must rise betimes, or rather not go to bed at all, that wUl overreach the monks in matters of profit ;" for these cunning bro thers, apprehensive of losing thefr precious reliques, cast a sUght bridge over the river at another place, and thus, crossing with the corpse, they left the men of Plymstock the priAolege of becoming, very sin cerely, the chief mourners, whilst' they interred old ChUde in thefr OAvn abbey church, and, according to his last vrill, took possession of his lands. It is certain that the Abbot of Taristock enjoyed considerable property at Plymstock, wliich is now in the possession of the Duke of Bedford ; and FuUer states that, in memory of this successful stratagem on the part of the monks, the bridge raised in or near the spot in Taristock bears the name of Guile- bridge to the present day. It is, however, now more commonly knoAvn by the name ofthe Abbey -bridge. Childe is supposed to have lived in the reign of Edward the Thfrd. The abbey, Arith its church, was dedicated to St. Mary the holy Virgin, and St. Rumon ; the parish church, to St. Eustachius. The arms of the abbey were gules, two crosiers sal tire ways between two mart lets or, in a chief argent three mullets sable. The 56 ST. RUMON. [let. ai-ms of Orgar were, according to one authority, Verrey B. and Arg. in chief Or, two muUets Gul. According to another, Verey B. and arg. in chief arg. three mullets Sable. This latter coat, impaled with the arms of the Abbey of Taristock, was, in the time of Prince, painted in a glass Avindow of the dining- room at the Bear Inn, Exeter. Though httle of a herald, I am thus particular, as, in the groined ceil ing to the porch of Avhat was formerly the abbot's haU (says Mr. Bray, from Avhose papers I have gleaned the above particulars) the latter arms, surrounded with a Avreath, are stUl discernible, cut in granite, and forming one of the key-stones ; while, on the other, in a lozenge, is represented a dove Arith a cross on its breast. Respecting St. Rumon, to whom, Arith the Vfrgin, the abbey church was detUcated, I find the foUoAring notice in my brother, Alfred Kempe's, account be fore mentioned. " Leland found a MS. Life of Rumon in Taristock Abbey at the time of the suppression of monasteries. He appears by this work to have been one of many saints Avho emigrated from Ireland into CoruAvall in the fifth or sixth century, for the purpose of enjoying the deepest seclusion, and to have erected for him self an oratory in Avhat the author terms a Nemsean forest, formerly a most fi-equcnted hamit of Avild beasts. This, according to the MS., was at Fal mouth, where he died and was buried; but the fame of his sanctity still surriring, Ordulph, on com pleting the monastery at Tavistock, Avas induced to remove his bones from their resting-place, and to enshrine them in the abbey church, Avhere they be- XXIII.] ST. RUMON. 57 came an object of ignorant devotion. Malmesbury seems to lament that the miracles of Rumon, in common with those of many other saints, owing to the violent hostility of subsequent times, remained unrecorded. No doubt this hiatus was amply sup pUed in the A-olume found by Leland, and the la bours of him who perhaps was really a zealous and fearless propagator of Christianity in the primitive times, Avere converted into a series of ascetic morti fications, degrading to reason, and Averse than useless to society, while his sanctity became attested by the detail of miracles more absurd than the Avildest of the Arabian Tales. Of the reputed saints, however, many were really such in their day ; heroic soldiers, Uke St. Paul, of Christ's Church militant on earth, in perils and persecutions ; but the purity of thefr doctrines becoming obscured during temporal con vulsions, the monks issued fi-om their scriptoria ncAV versions of their Uves, which suited their own pur poses for the time, but have had the effect in these enlightened days of clouding the memory of holy men with much of doubt and incredulity." The Abbey of Taristock being thus finished, de dicated, and endowed in the year 981, King Ethel red, the son of Elfrida, confirmed and granted to it many considerable privileges, making it free from aU secular services excepting rate for military expe ditions, and the repair of bridges and castles. " In the preamble to this instrument he laments that certain persons, stained Arith infidelity, had been al lowed, Arithout his consent (he being, as it might be said, in an infant and powerless state, not more than twenty years of age), to drive the monks of Tavi- d3 58 ETHELRED's CHARTER. [lET. stock from their sacred places and possessions. This stain of infidelity was, I apprehend, nothing more than a disbelief in the sanctity of monachism, and the expulsion of the monks from church benefices, in which they were replaced by the much more de serving secular clergy." Such are my brother's re marks ; but we shall hereafter see that, in all proba bility, the expulsion thus alluded to by Ethelred had reference to the Augustine friars, Avho were so soon turned out of the very abbey in which they had been placed by Orgar and Ordulph. What I have to say on the subject must, hoAvever, be reserved for another letter. Ethelred's charter (witnessed by his mother, Queen Elfi-ida, and the Archbishop of Canterbury) empow ered our Tavistock monks to choose their own ab bot, and contained the follovring severe penalty on any one Avho should presume to alienate any part of the pririleges thus granted and confirmed. " If any seduced with the madness of covetousness shall presume to infringe this our munificence, let him be driven from the communion, of Christ's Church, and from any participation of the body and blood of the Son of God ; let him stand at last, Arith the traitor Judas on the left hand; and, unless he repents and makes satisfaction, let the rile apostate never be forgiven, either in this life, or in that to come ; but let him be thrust down, with Ananias and Sapphira, to the bottom of hell, where let him be tormented for ever. Amen." Aimer, a Saxon, was chosen the first abbot ; and I shaU presently give a Ust of aU the abbots, down to the Reformation. Something must now be said XXIII.] ethelred's CHARTER. 59 of the order of monks who were appointed to the abbey about the time that Ethelred granted his chai-ter ; but haring extended this much beyond the limits of an ordinary letter, I AriU not at present add more than that I am, my dear Sir, With every feeling of respectful esteem. Most faithfully and truly yours, A. E. Bray. 60 LETTER XXIV. TO ROBERT SOUTHEY, ESQ. Contents. — Dunstan living at the time of building the Abbey — Algarus removed from the See of Crediton — Dunstan's views respecting the Benedictines — His power and craft — Orgar iu his office of Earl raust have been a coadjutor of Algarus in the Shirege mot Court — Some conjectures respecting the removal of Algarus — Ou what circumstances founded — The Benedictines — Their great learning — Literature benefited by them — The subj eet further con sidered — Learning fearfully assailed — Its preservation and re vival — Liturgies — The Bible — Benedictines, their great works- Brief account of St. Benedict their founder — Interview between him and Tortila, king of the Goths — His prophecy fulfilled — A venerable Benedictine known to the writer abroad — His amiable character — Demolition of Monasteries a cause of unceasing regret — The Cross; its beauty in form — The good influence arising frora its heing an object of sight — Crosses frequently met with in the West — Thoughts and feelings suggested by the subject — The im posing nature of Abbeys and Monastic buildings — Their moral grandeur — Blind zeal led to their destruction — Reformation dis gracefully carried on though useful in its general aim — Abbey walls of Tavistock — Their beautiful situation — St. John's; the hermitage of the olden time — Reflections suggested by an eveuing walk oa the banks of the Tavy under these venerable walls. Ficarage, Tavistock, .August 1st, 1832. My DEAR Sir, It is not unworthy observation that, about the time of the building of Tavistock Abbey, Dunstan, that crafty churchman, of miracle-lying memory, by his exertions removed Algarus from the see of Crediton (after he had held it ten years) to make way for Alfodus, a friend of his OAvn, who there XXIV.J DUNSTAN. 61 remained bishop during seventeen years, when he died. What motive could have prompted Dunstan to desire the removal of Algarus is not ascertained ; but it may, I think, be inferred with a nearer ap proach to certainty than generally accompanies con jecture. The power Avhich that ambitious primate had acqufred over the mind of the licentious Edgar is too Avell known to need much notice here ; the king was, in fact, in all ecclesiastical matters, no more than an instrument to forward the artful and grasping designs of Dunstan. Assured of royal countenance, he soon put in execution those tyrannical schemes he had so long forined to estabUsh ceUbacy as a law Arith the clergy, to expel or convert them into monks, and to render those monks Benedictines : a rule that was dependent on himself and would help to carry on his plans throughout the kingdom. Dunstan, moreoA'er, had been the first Abbot of Glastonbury, a monastery bmlt, endoAved, and filled by him with Benedictines; an order of which FuUer (in the spirit of pleasantry he so constantly mingles Avith the most exceUent sense) says, " they now began to swarm in England, more than maggots in a hot May, so incredible was thefr increase." No sooner had Edgar succeeded to the throne of his unfortunate brother EdAvy, than the primate procured Oswald and Ethelwald to be promoted to the sees of Worcester and Winchester, as ecclesiastics avow edly devoted to the grand object of forwarding by every means the advancement of the Benedictine rule ; and he hesitated not to remove or persecute any of the clergy who offered the least resistance to 62 ALGARUS. [let. his AriU. When we recoUect these things, we need not look far to find a very probable motive for the removal of Algarus from the see of Crediton. Nor can I help fancying that, by inference, at least, this motive may be yet further developed, and that it Avas not other than connected with the order of monks in our abbey. Orgar, Earl of Devon, in the very nature of his office, could not but be in some measm-e ac quainted vrith Algarus ; since, as Bishop of Crediton, he must have taken his seat Arith the earl of the county in the Shiregemot Court. Now, at the time Orgar contemplated building and endoAring his abbey on the banks of the Tavy, might he not have consulted with Algarus, respecting the order of monks he should place in it ? For if Prince be cor rect in his statement (and there is no reason to think he was othervrise, as he chiefly foUowed that excel lent antiquary Risdon) our abbey was at first peopled with Augustine friars*: though, according to Dugdale, such order could not have been then of long continuance ; for Tavistock Abbey was founded in 961, and Dugdale cites a charter of the reign of Ethelbert, dated 981, giring the monks therein power to choose their OAvn abbot, in which they are expressly stated to be of the Benedictine rule. The same learned writer teUs us, that Edgar in 964 made it his boast that he had endowed not less than forty-seven monasteries of that order in his king- * The Augustine order seems to have been a favourite one with the family of the Earl of Devon; for his daughter. Queen Elfrida, peopled her convents of Warwelle and Amblesbury with Augustine Nuns. XXIV.] ALGARUS. 63 dom. Our abbey, it wdl be recollected, was com menced three years before this; and was endowed by Orgar, not by Edgar. When we consider the boast on the part of the Idng, we see how friendly he was to the monks Avhom Fuller compares to the "maggots in a hot May." And when we also consider Dunstan's determination to have all the monks Benedictines, the Augustine friars of Taristock Avere tolerably sure of being turned out. And the removal of Algarus (in whose diocese they Avere) by the interference of Dunstan, leads me to suspect that the bishop was, in some way or other, an obstacle to this change of the order ; or he might at first have prevailed with Orgar to make choice of the Augustines, Avhich suited not Arith the plans and intrigues of Dunstan ; for we cannot doubt that with his views, an abbey endowed on so large a scale as Taristock (to hold a thousand men) and by so great a benefactor as Orgar, must have been a foundation Avorth intriguing for on the part of the primate, who sought to extend his own poAver by peopling, if it were possible, every monastery Arith those Bene dictines Avho were so entirely subserrient to his AviU*. * The dislike which Queen Elfrida, aud her son Ethelred, enter tained for Dunstan is well known ; and so far had it extended that, at one time, there was the queen's party, and the archbishop's, in the state. "Elfrida," (says Turner in his history of the Anglo Saxons,) " was as ambitious as Dunstan, and therefore became his rival. She joined the party of the clergy, and endeavoured to bias the minds of the great in favour of her son Ethelred." This was before he suc ceeded to the throne by her murder of Edward the Martyr. It is therefore the more probable that Ethelred's complaint, in the preamble of his charter, about the monks being turned out of their possessions in Tavisock Abbey, referred to the previous removal 64 DUNSTAN. [let. His character renders these conjectures (and they are only offered as conjectures) the more Ukely ; since, Arith the exception of Wolsey, there is not, perhaps, in the ecclesiastical history of this country, so deeply designing, or so far-sighted a prelate as Dunstan. Becket, to borrow your OAvn words (in the ' Book of the Church'), had a "daring spirit, a fiery temper, and a haughty heart," loved power, and pursued his ends by means sufficiently proud and overbearing. But the high tone with which he maintained the dignity of the priesthood, as, with his crosier in his hand, he met Henry face to face, and presenting before him that pastoral emblem of a servant of the good shepherd — as arms placed in his hands by God himself, to command even the respect of kings — inspires a feeling of admiration Avhich true mag nanimity will always aAvaken in a generous breast; and Avas far different from the mean compUances Arith the king's vices, the frauds and the hj^ocrisy of Dunstan. Those mean compliances were apparent when he enjoined on Edgar a mock penance for the flagrantly immoral actions of his life : since his pe nances Avere no Aveightier than that the king Avas not to Avcar his crown for a certain space of time, and was to fast during certain days. And most truly did he turn even the king's sins to his oAvn profit, Avhen above all other things he recommended that the royal pe nitent, as an atonement for them, should persecute the married clergy might and main, expel them, and of the Augustine friars. Some years after this event, the Abbey being thus finished and endowed. King Ethelred, grandson of the founder, confirmed and granted to it many considerable privileges, making it free from all secular services, those before named excepted. XXIV.] LEARNING OF THE BENEDICTINES. ^*"*^"-^5" set up the Benedictine rule throughout the land. Assuredly the acts of Dunstan witness for him that his intercourse Avith the deril Avas no fiction, though it may be questioned if it were not in a more fi-iendly way than that of taking him by the nose. HoAvever, to the praise of the Benedictines be it spoken, thefr order, from the earliest times to the latest, Avas favourable to learning. And as any history of our abbey would be very imperfect did it not give some account of the rule Avhich prevailed in it for so many centuries, instead of offering any excuses for here introducing it, I should have to apologize did I omit it : more especially as it will be found, in the sequel, that our Tavistock monks have the honour of being connected Arith the art of print ing in its earUest age; and, indeed, as Benedictine brothers, may be classed with those Avho assisted in the preservation and rerival of letters. Though foreign wars have occasionally been the means of spreading literature, or of bringing it Arith profit home, yet nothing, it is universally alloAved, is so injurious to its immediate interests, as the revolutions and civU brawls of poUtical states. Very different from the first position, however, was the invasion of Italy ; when Rome being sacked by the Goths, in the time of Honorius, and the whole country subsequently conquered by Odoacer, com pleted the ruin of that celebrated empire, second only to Greece as the fertile mother of genius and the nursery of learning. To those who Avish to see letters flourish in their own day, it is at all times grievous to observe the public mind turned whoUy on political opposition. A contest of this sort may sometimes begin Arith judgment, but it is sure to 66 LITERATURE. [lET. degenerate into passion; and the frenzy or maUce of party spfrit gives bfrth to those feeUngs of little ness, which harden the mind, or render it indifferent to the deUghtful relaxations and the kindly fruits of letters. Literature also teaches men to be reasonable, and to look to experience for instruction. When properly pursued, it is the great school of humUity ; since the student learns to little advantage, if he learns not his OAvn insufficiency, and after aU he acquires, sees not how much remains beyond the span of his OAvn U- mited existence, and that perfect knowledge is with God alone. These are truths Avhich men bent on the frenzy of insurrectionary passions wiU never admit; since their standard of aU knowledge of right and wrong is their own opinion. A Arise man and a true christian, on the contrary, founds his po Utics on the laAvs of God, as well as on the estabUshed laws of his country ; and both teach submission and obedience. These I am aware are opinions of what is now called the " Old school," they suit not Arith the spirit of the new, and are, as Shakspeare so feel ingly expresses it, Uke " Unregarded age, in corners thrown." Learning, though fearfuUy assaUed, and at last overthroAvn, in the empire of the West, Avas saved from total extinction by the followers of the Christian Church. It has been weU remarked by an inteUigent but anonymous AVi-iter on the subject of its decay, that AvhUst a " gothic tempest" Avould have sAvept from Europe the arts and the Avritten Avisdom of antiquity, one thing contributed to save them from total destruction, though that was in itself a bad XXIV.] THE FATHERS. 67 thing — "superstition." For the barbarous hordes of the North entertained so great a dread of their idolatrous gods, that it inspired them with a fear and deference for their priesthood ; and this feeUng, in some measure, accompanied them even into foreign countries, and Avas noAv and then evinced toAvards the ministers of a foreign reUgion ; so that the mo nastery (and would that the Danes had done the same in England at a subsequent period !) Avas some times spared, when palaces Avere sacked and com mitted to the flames. In the primitive ages of Christianity, learning was alone cultivated by the Fathers of the Church ; and the Avritings of such men as St. Chryostom, Au gustine, Gregory Nazianzen, Cyprian, and others, independent of the great truths they inculcate, were of that feeUng and poetic order of eloquence, that ranks them next to the prophets and the apostles, and shows that the Avriters were filled Avith a large portion ofthe Holy Spirit, so abundantly poured forth in the early ages of the Church. Their disciples foUowed in thefr path ; so that wliilst the barbarities of the northern conquerors had spread around a darkness Avhich, to the human soul, was as " thick night,'' light Avas only to be found in the cell of the christian scholar ; AVhose lonely lamp, as it glimmered on the shores of some placid sea, Avas a guiding star to the Aveary and persecuted of the Church, where reU gion and learning, those txrins of peace and love, reposed, like the dove of David, far away from the stormy Avinds and the tempest. The earliest liturgies Avere composed in Greek and Latin, and to the fathers are Ave indebted for the preservation of those noble languages ; the latter 68 THE BIBLE. [lET. hereafter to become, as we have seen, the medium of communication with the learned of Europe : thus affording them a common means of exchanging the benefits of science and knowledge, that formed, though at a distance and unseen by each other, a bond of friendship arising from sympathy of feeling and similarity of pursuit — a union Avhich none but noble minds can truly enjoy; since it is one disin terested, independent of the circumstances of life, or the changes of fortune, and looks for its continuance in a Avorld beyond the grave. Valuable as Avere the Avritings of the ancients, we are above all, however, indebted to the Bible for the preservation and the revival of learning. Inde pendent of its being the Book of Life, it is of such transcendent beauty, in almost every species of com position, that, had every other book been destroyed, it would of itself have been sufficient to have taught. Avisdom to empires, to give laAV to governments, and to teach both morals and manners to the whole Avorld. The Bible was to the early Christians, as the ark of God had been to the Jews of old, the de pository of the covenant : it went forth Avith them into all nations and languages : it became thefr strength in the hour of rictory, and their hope under the severest trials and persecutions of their faith. It Avas the only book over Avhich sin and death could have no power. That not only the sacred Avritings, but such of the classics as have come down to us, Avere preserved in the monasteries, is a fact so universaUy knoAvn, that nothing more than here to notice it need be said upon the subject. The Benedictines, from the seventh to the last century, were employed in those xxiv.] THE BENEDICTINE ORDER. 69 labours that have made the learned of all times their debtors. And amongst many excellent Avorks, one of the most valuable sent by them into the world in modern days, is an edition of St. Chrysostom, edited by Montfaucon, Arith the assistance of other members of the same community. And though, unhappily, the monastic institutions Avere swept aAvay, instead of being reformed, Arith the Church, it Avould be well if the learned Avho reside in our colleges in one thing followed the example of the Benedictines. With the leisure, the advantages they possess in every way, did they unite together and assist each other in the task, they might, by such joint labours, afford the literary world at large most valuable- editions not only of the classics, but of the Fathers, and of every inestimable AVork of antiquity. The Benedictine order had its origin Avith Bene dict, an ItaUan, Avho, about the end of the fifth cen tury, first attracted notice on account of his talents and his worth. He is generaUy considered to have been the son of a peasant, though some Avriters have affirmed that his father was of a noble house. Be this as it may, his zeal for religion and good morals proved that he was possessed of that true nobility of mind Avhich, as an old writer says, " hath its patent from God himself, and needeth no earthly addition." Benedict, on conversing vrith young men of his OAvn age, felt so shocked at obserring the licentiousness of their manners, that he retired from the Avorld, and shut himself up in a cavern where no one, saving an old monk, knew of his retreat. At length he was induced to converse Arith the monks belonging to the community of his friend ; and so much Avere they edified by listening to his devout discourses, that they 70 ST. BENEDICT. [lET. spread his fame far and near ; and, after a whUe, he Avas requested to leave his cave and become su perior of a monastery in the neighbourhood. Sacrificing his love of soUtude for the hope of being useful to others, Benedict accepted the office, but resolved, should he be disappointed in his ex pectations, that the old cavern should once more become his home. The monks, over Avhom he now presided in their rehgious exercises, fell far short of the ideas he had formed of devotional perfection; he liked not thefr manners, and they liked not his discipline, and so they speedily parted on less happy terms than they had met. According to those chroniclers Avho celebrated the lives of the saints, the power of working mfracles Avas now added to aU his other extraordinary endowments; and this power droAV around him a multitude of fol lowers and disciples. It is to be supposed they supplied him amply with this world's goods ; since, unless he did it by miracle, Benedict erected, by his own means, many monasteries, and placed in them persons who were more Arilling than the monks had been to foUow his rule ; and even some of the nobles brought to him their children, that they might re ceive such an education as he should direct. Imitating the manner of life practised by the holy apostles, Benedict traveUed into several kingdoms, preaching the gospel, and confirming the truth of its doctrine by many marveUous works. In the country of thef Samnfres he overthroAv the altar of ApoUo, destroyed the statue of that god, cut down his grove, and erected an oratory in the place Avhere the hea then temple had stood; but so numerous were the persons who Arished to devote themselves to his way xxiv.j ST. benedict's sister. 71 of life, that he found it necessary to turn his oratory into a monastery, of which he now became the chief, and thus established, on a more permanent footing, that rigid order which ever after bore his name. Benedict Avas not the only saint of his family; his sister, to whom he was exceedingly attached, being no less celebrated for piety than himself. She Avas a nun, and one day only in the year did these near relatives indulge themselves vrith any pleasure so allied to earthly feelings as that of the inter change of fi-aternal affection. During an interview of this description, whUst Benedict, attended by his disciples, was about to retfr-e, after having preached and prayed from his cell, his sister threw herself on her knees before him, and begged him to tarry ano ther day ; but her brother told her that the rule of his order did not aUow him to pass one night be yond the waUs of the monastery of which he was the chief She then, in a fit of passionate sorrow, sup- phcated God to grant her patience and resignation, as she felt assured that she should never more be hold her most beloved friend. Benedict endeavoured to console her ; and though he refused compliance Arith her request, a sudden and violent storm Avhich ensued caused some delay in his departure ; at last he went. Great, however, was his grief when, soon after his return to the monastery, he received the in formation that his sister was dead, so speedUy had her own prediction been fulfilled. He caused her body to be removed to the tomb that he had pre pared for himself, in order that his ashes might hereafter mingle Arith hers in the same grave. Another striking story is recorded of Benedict re specting his interriew Arith fhe fierce Totila, King 72 TOTILA. [let. of the Goths. So great was the reputation of the saint, that the barbarian prince entertained a Avish to see him, and the more so as he understood that he possessed the gift of prophecy, and hoped to learn from him some intelligence of his future des tiny. The king was struck Avith awe on beholding the venerable aspect of the saint, and he Avho had never before humbled himself in the presence of mortal fell at the feet of the recluse, who had no thing about him to excite terror excepting that air of authority Avith Avhich, as a prophet of God, he looked upon the king and reproached him for his cruel victories. Totila, alarmed but not converted, struggled with feelings so new to him and so embar rassing; and determining, let Avhat would be the event, he Avould inquire of this man of God his fu ture fate, received, in reply to those inquiries, the following brief prediction: "You will enter Rome; you Avill pass the sea ; nine years a croAvn is yours, but the tenth that crown shall be given to death." This warning was said to be strictly fulfilled, for Totila died in the tenth year after he had entered the city of Rome. Many are the legends told of St. Benedict. No doubt he was a remarkable per son; and the great object, both of his rule and of his life, was to bring into a more moral government the then existing orders of monachism. He had also the good sense to recommend the cultivation of letters to all who devoted themselves to reUgious retfrement. Such was the man who founded the order of the Benedictines. All monasteries where his rule was professed in former times preserved some record of his life, or of his miracles. If my memory serves me truly, I xxiv.] THE CROSS. 73 understood fi-om a venerable Benedictine, nearly eighty years old, Avith Avhom, some years since, I was acquainted at St. Omer's (and Avho still fondly lin gered about the old Avails of that abbey of Avhich he had once been a learned, and, I doubt not, a worthy brother), that before the Revolution a splendid illu minated manuscript, of a very early date, contain ing the life of St. Benedict, had been there pre served. It vvas lost, or destroyed, Avhen the mob, like so many demoniacs, broke into the noble abbey, and made that havoc which reduced it to the ruinous state in which it appeared Avhen I passed through its melancholy aisles, under the guidance of this aged and devout man, and heard him tell the sad story of its fall. I have never forgotten the poor Benedictine; his unaffected piety; his meek and polished manners ; the deep expression of his feel ings, and his entfr-e resignation to the will of God, in Avhose bosom, I doubt not, he is uoav at rest. I never can think of the demolition of monasteries and abbeys, and look upon the ruins of our ovvn at Ta vistock, without feeUngs of the most poignant regret. Even the sight of a broken or of an overturned cross giA-cs me pain : the cross ! the most beautiful of all simple forms ; the most harmless emblem of a Chris tian people. When vieAved with the eye of contempla tion, it reminds us of that tree of shame vvhich be came to all the Avorld, by the sacrifice of Him Avho died upon it, as the tree of life and immortality. Would that every church had retained its cross to this day ! there Avould have been no danger that, in Protestant societies, any should fall doAvn and Avor ship the wood or stone of Avhich the emblem was composed. But the mere sight of it, with feeling VOL. II. E 74 PLEASURE FROM REFLECTING [lET. persons, must have touched the heart, and some pious thought, some tender recollection would have arisen. And stiU, in the baptism of our own re formed church, the child on being purified by that holy mystery from original sin, on being made a "faithful soldier of Christ," is signed with "the sign of the cross " upon his brow, and becomes a par taker of the benefits purchased for him by the Ee deemer of the Avorld. In this neighbourhood we often meet in our walks and rides, in many a solitary spot, a rude and ancient cross ; some so ancient that we are incUned to con sider them as having been set up by the earliest converts to Christianity in this part of England. When we meet with a vestige of this description in the vast desolation of Dartmoor, or in the midst of the rural scenes of wood and water that abound in Devon, near the riUage or the antique church, how many delightful thoughts and feelings arise in the breast of him who views it in its relation to past times and holy men ! Yes — those who reverence antiquity, who love knowledge as the friend of all that is noble and good — of all that makes life plea sant, and time as a field that, if carefully cultivated, Avill find its harvest in eternity, AriU look with an eye of deep interest on such venerable records of the past : even the rudest emblem of the cross AriU not be met with in vain. These things may excite a smUe of contempt in the heartless foUowers of modern fashion and inno vation. But there are feelings, in better minds, that wiU not bear exposure to the common eye, that find no sympathy Arith the vulgar in station, or the vulgar in soul; that shrink from the censure of cold XXIV.] ON ANTIQUITY. 75 hearts and busy tongues. All those generous sen timents that arise from the poetry of nature, from high-raised thoughts, " Not of earth only, but of highest heaven," are of this kind ; and they are more peculiarly the property of the meditative and the good, the " lowly vrise," who deUght to connect " aU seasons and their change," aU " outAvard and risible signs," Arith that " inward grace," which forms the moral government of the spfrit. For such minds there is a full- spread book in the creation of God, and in the arts of man ; for such the most soUtary depths have a voice that utters Arisdom. The wide immensity of heaven; the multitude of countless stars ; the clouds that roll before them in their immeasurable travel, that " drop fatness" on the earth, as manna dropped on the desert to sustain the chosen of Israel ; the Arintry torrent, or the summer brook, each affords its bless ing and their lesson to him who can estimate them, as he strays through pathless woods, or the green fields, where the birds that cater not for them selves find a table spread on every bush, where the young ravens seek their food from God. These are pleasures that ask no cost, that require no sacrifice, that cause no remorse, for they have thefr source in simplicity and in truth. They come to us under a thousand forms, and in a thousand ways. The waves as they break on some distant shore, the shadoAvs of the forest, or the melancholy cadence of the wind, have each a story that the feeUng mind delights to hear and to repeat. Nor less are the pleasures that result from a con templation of antiquity. The solemn ruins of the feudal castle, the mouldering Abbey, or the ancient e2 76 BEAUTY OF ANCIENT CHURCHES. [lET, cross, grey with its lichen and its moss, they too have a tongue ! Hoav many images of the past do these recaU ! We think, as Ave look upon that cross, of the ages that have rolled on since it Avas there planted by some one nOAV unknown to fame, but whose name, though blotted fi-om the records of time, is enrolled in the book of life. Wc think of feudal tyrants and stormy times, of fanaticism and rebelUon, that have each in turn risen to despise those precepts, and to shake that faith taught by Him Avho perished on a thing Uke this ! Yet how vain is man when he strives Avith the Almighty ! God has said that the Avord of his Son is anchored on the rock of ages, and that it shall endure till all nations boAV to Him ; till all enemies, and death the last, shaU be subdued by him ; and his laAv is stiU great, stiU spreading to the most distant people of the earth, as that light Avhich encompasses the Avliole. What depths ,of feeling lie hidden in the human breast ! What strong traces ofthe Divinity are fixed in that heart on which is Avritten, as on the bells of the horses' bridles, "Holiness unto the Lord." With those thus favoured by the grace of God, it is a duty replete vrith deUght, it is thefr- best service, and their best reward, to find in all things somewhat of good, somoAvhat that speaks to them of their Creator. And the Avorks of man, in his finest or his rudest arts, as they are the result of that mind Avhich emanates from the Deity, have likoArise an immediate reference to his proridenoe and his poAver. And never were the arts more nobly employed than by our forefathers, when they raised those beautiful piles, our cathedi-als, our churches, our universities, and our Abbeys, to the honour of that rQUgion which God had given to man as XXIV.] THE REFORMATION. 77 the chief blessing, the chief distinction and glory of his kind, that he should not be as the beasts Avhich perish. It is lamentable to think hoAV these majestic edi fices fell before the blind zeal, the ill-directed means — hoAvever desirable the end — of the Reformation. " Never Avas there a good work so wickedly effected as the Reformation in England. It is at once our chief blessing and our foulest reproach *." A second havoc among ecclesiastical edifices, and scarcely less destructive than the first, arose from the fury of the fanatics, and the miserable sectaries of the time of Charles I. The great enemy ofthe church, the Prince of darkness himself, never will be at rest in his at tempts against it ; and whether his agents appear in the shape of infidels, of fanatics, or of mercUess re formers, it is the same spirit that actuates them aU, for all are rebels against the holiness of God, in his most holy church. WeU Avould it have been vrith those Avho conducted the great Reformation had they been content to repair rather than to overturn. And hoAV good it is to preserve temper in all things may be learned fi-om the example of St. Paul, Avho, when he saw the altar dedicated by the Greeks to the " UnknoAvn God,' did not OA'erthroAV it, but Him Avhom they ignorantiy worshipped did he truly teach them to understand; thus showing that a heathen altar, from Avhich the false fires of idolatry had arisen, was capable of becoming, as the altar of Abraham, a place of sacri fice to the Father of truth. How often, as 1 have Avandered under the Abbey Avails, that uoav form the boundary of our own garden, and looked on the romantic and beautiful scene that Avas before me, have I fancied I could see it, animated '* Moral and Political Essays, vol. i. page 98, 78 HERMITAGE OF ST. JOHN. [lET. with human beings, as it must have appeared in other times. These walls were spared during the general destruction ; thefr massiveness and the roughness of their stone were not improbably thefr protection. They are even now nearly perfect ; and in the quarter towards the Abbey bridge appear lofty and battlemented. A toAver called the StiU- house, in one part stands forward and breaks the uniformity of the long line of Avail, so beautifuUy hung with ivy. A raised causeway Ues between these waUs and the river, and affords a walk so de lightful, that it may truly be termed the Abbey ter race. It is of considerable extent. Immediately below this causeway flows the rapid Tavy over vast masses of rock that here and there diride the current of the waters, and form them into many picturesque and low falls, white and dazzling Arith foam. On the opposite hill, beautifuUy diver sified by trees, some of which droop their branches into the passing waters, once stood a cell, the Her mitage of St. John. Of this no memorial is now left, excepting a spring of the purest kind, and the spot is still called by its ancient name ; no doubt this was the sacred fountain dedicated to John the Baptist. There is a record, preserved with the parish docu ments, consisting of an old inventory of the treasury of Tavistock church, in which it appears that a her mit left his sUver crucifix, inclosing a piece of the true cross, to our church. Tn all probability the recluse Avho made this bequest was the hermit of St. John. As you have already read of the Walk (as it is called) under our Abbey waUs, in Fitz-ford, I do not here enter upon more minute particulars, lest it should come to you as a tale tvrice told. I shall only, there fore, addt that looking to the east, the GuUe bridge. XXIV.] HERMITAGE OF ST. JOHN. 79 and the distant heights of Dartmoor, intersected by some trees that groAv at the foot of the hill beyond the bridge, close a scene of beauty seldom found so near a populous town in any part of England. As the Avails 1 have mentioned formed the boundary of the Abbot's garden, and there was, and yet re mains, a portal which stands near the StiU-house, opening upon the Walk, I am disposed to think it might have been used by the holy brothers, when ever they Arished to sally forth and enjoy the cool air fi-om the river in their hours of recreation. The river alone separated them from the precincts of the Hermitage, a view of which they commanded from this walk. I have often fancied, as I looked across the Tavy, that I could see the Gothic oratory as it once ap peared about the spring ; the roof which formerly overarched it, the sculptured image of the Baptist, fri his raiment of camel's hafr, as he stood in a niche above, pointing with his hand to the holy well be neath, and holding in the other a staff with the banner of the Agnus Dei. The crucifix, the hour glass, and the skuU appear on the rough-hewn table, and there kneels the venerable hermit, engaged in the office of his evening prayers ; as the " small birds" twitter on the boughs around his cell, and seek their nest amid a canopy of leaves, whilst the setting sun casts over the Avhole scene a departing gleam that "fires the proud tops" of the Abbey towers and Avails, or flashes on the rushing waters in meteor rays of light. The stillness of evening settles on all around; not a human sound breaks the universal repose : the masses of rock, now seen only in their outline, assume a variety of dark and 80 AVELL OF ST. JOHN. [lET. XXIV. fantastic forms, as the constant murmur of the Tavy, that never ceases, seems to find its echo in the " listening heart," tUl slowly flinging its sounds (as the light of day AvithdraAvs) over hill and vale and water, I am awakened from these thoughts of other times ; as (in the language of the poet, Avho has thus expressed it, in a Une of matchless beauty for its euphony) I listen, and " Hear the bell from the tower, toll ! toll 1 through the silence of evening." These are "thick coming fancies," that steal upon the mind in hours of poetry and of feeling — ^but the reality is before me ; there lies the once holy, and the ever pure spring of St. John, unsheltered, open to the sunshine or the storm ; those just emblems of the fortunes experienced by the departed guar dians of this fountain. Oh ! thoughts of innocence and peace, hoAv do ye delight to pause on the sha- doAvy or the mouldering records of former years ! How do ye Avhisper to one Avho Avelcomes you as sweet and pleasant friends ; that a foAv years more, and, over the name and the remembrance of that one, oblivion shall roll her dark and "rayless night," even as it is noAv falling, like a mantle, on these once stately towers. But there is a memory in Heaven, and being a record of mercy, it can never be blotted out. Such is the comfort cf all Avho feel (in the Avords of Montesinos) " the Aveight of time and of eternity upon the spirit." Dear Sir, Ever faithfuUy and respectfully yours, Anna E. Bray. 81 LETTER XXV. TO ROBERT SOUTHEY, ESQ. Contents :— Abbey b-arnt by the Danes — Hengist-dowfl — Scene of a great Battle — Horse Bridge — Some conjectures concerning it — Wars during tbe Saxon era — Saxon Princes of the West — Arthur, his career — Saxons and Danes — Their fierce contests near Tavis tock — .\dage respecting one of their battles — The Danes ravage Tavistock ; destroy the Abbey — It rises again — Its benefactors — Livingus, its munificent Abbot — Brief notice of his history — His death; huried in the Abbey — Lands, deeds, privileges, benefac tions, charters, &e. &e., conferred on the Abbey — Abbots grown rich ; parish priest so poor as to petition for a pair of shoes — John Banham made a mitred Abbot — Anglo-Saxon Monasteries, their simplicity and piety — Benedictines, their dress, &c. — Their hos pitality. Ficarage, Tavistock, 1832, My dear Sir, After having, in my former letters, traced the history of our Abbey fi-om its foundation to its completion in the year 981, I have noAV to speak of the first severe shock it experienced by a change of fortune, for scarcely had this magnificent structure- stood thirty years, ere the Danes became its ruin. The first appearance of those barbarians on our shores Avas about the close of the eighth century, Avhen Brithric reigned in Wessex. In the time of Egbert they pUlaged the Isle of Sheppey, and soon after gained a great victory at Charmouth, in Dor setshire; Avhere they murdered two bishops, and kept possession of their camp. But the greatest incm-sion in this part of the West was in 835. The e3 82 HENGIST-DOWN. [lET. Saxon Chronicle states, that a large fleet of these marauders came to the "West Welch" — the people of Cornwall — who united their forces Arith them, and made war on Egbert. The circumstance of the men of Cornwall thus joining heathens to carry arras into the territory of a Christian prince may be considered a strong confirmation of the opinion that they stiU clung to the old superstitions of the ancient Britons, and Avere not yet converted to the truth. Egbert, when he heard of this alliance against him, "marched Arith an army (says the same Chronicle) and fought Arith them at Hengest-dune, and there he put to flight both the Welch and the Danes." Hengest-dune (now caUed Hengesdown*, and sometimes Kingston) is in our neighbourhood ; and not very far distant from it is Horse Bridge ; and I cannot help entertaining the conjecture that the hill where Egbert thus beat the forces combined against him derived its name from some battle fought long before his time, in the days of Vortigern, the British prince. I shall here state the reasons which have induced me to venture this conjecture. There is no record, that I am aAvare of, in existence, by Avhich we have any authority for saying that the Saxon brothers, Hengist and Horsa (when they visited this country and so cruelly massacred the Britons) Avere ever in this part of England. Yet * There are several barrows on Hengist-dowu : one or two of which (says Mr. Carruigton, jun., in the Devonport Guide) were opened a few years since. In one of them they found a human skull and several bones. A druidical cell (corresponding in its appearance to those called by Davies " arkite cells" of the bards) was also dug up on Hengist-down mauy years ago. Near Cotele, a narrow glen is still called Danes Combe; the Danes having past through it on theu: •way to meet Egbert in battle. XXV. ] HENGIST-DOWN. 83 the thing seems to me not improbable, nor impos sible. The records of that time were very imperfect. The principal historian, Witichindus, a Saxon, might not have been acquainted with every minute ofrcum stance of the period about which he Avrote. And when Ave recoUect Uoav many monasteries in this country were afterwards burnt by the Danes, we cannot but conclude some chronicles or documents, that would have throAvn much Ught on our early history, were consumed in the flames. It is so remarkable a cfr-cumstance that Hengist- down should Ue not very far from Horse Bridge*, that it is a strong temptation to fancy those places derived their names fi-om Hengist and Horsa. Let it also be remembered that Vortigern (Avho leagued Arith those chiefs, and by his base treachery and in trigues fixed the Saxon yoke on his countrymen) was Earl or Heretoge of Cornwall. The very station he held connected him more particularly Arith the Cornish Britons, and with the people of Devon: they were also numbered with those who made the longest and most rigorous resistance against the Saxon wolves ; and though the greatest battle took place at Bampton, where the miserable Britons lost (according to the Saxon Chronicle) two thousand and forty-six of their bravest men, yet many battles Avere fought of less import, prerious to that decisive engagement. Might it not then be possible that one of these " many battles" was on the borders of CornwaU, where Vortigern, the base Heretoge of that county, might even have guided Hengist and * Horse Bridge is a beautiful object iu a beautiful spot ; it crosses the river Tamar, that divides Cornwall and Devon. It is noticed by Baretti, iu his delightful letters. 84 PRINCE ARTHUR. [lET. Horsa; and where each (the one on the hill, and the other at the pass of the river) might have achieved a minor rictory; and so have left their names as memorials to those places? — names that have sur- ¦vived stone or brass, and still may point out to the local historian the scene of carnage and victory. HoAV much light AriU even a name throAv on a place, where it awakens a spirit of inquiry ! Hoav pleasant is it to sit at a desk and settle about the site of battles, and the tyrants Avho fought them, a thousand years ago ! You will, I dare say, smile at my conjectures ; but I Avill endeavour yet further to show they are not so Arild as they might at first be imagined. That this part of England Avas the scene of many fierce engagements, long before the time of Egbert, is proved by historical facts. Encouraged by the success of Hengist, many Saxon adventurers crossed the seas, and eventually gained a footing in Britain. Amongst these was Cerdic, the founder of the West Saxon Kingdom, Avho Avas opposed in his career by Aurelius Ambrosius, and the heroic Prince Arthur ; Avhose virtues became so magnified by the bards, and his real actions so blended Avith those purely fabulous, that, like Hercules, he was rendered quite as much a god of mythology in Britain, as that renoAvned and laborious hero Avas in Greece; and who, likewise, received his divinity from the poets. That Arthur Avas an extraordinary prince, a light amidst darkness, cannot be doubted ; the very extra- A'agance of his fame had in all probability its founda tion in the enthusiasm and admiration he inspired amongst his countrymen ; for glory in a half civUized nation is ever the result of actions which so far sur pass the capabUities of the ordinary race of men Avho xxv.] THE DANES IN CORNWALL. 85 witness them, that they attribute such achievements to sorae power more than human vested in the per son of thefr hero, Avho speedUy becomes their God. Such almost was Arthur with the Britons ; but Avhatever might have been his valour or his success, it appears he did not wholly subdue Cerdic, who, after a struggle of several years, conquered many of the western parts of this kingdom. His son Cynric succeeded to the throne of Wessex ; and his grand son Ceaulin obtained a great battle over the Britons in Gloucestershire, Avhich so enabled him to enlarge the extent of his kingdom, that he added to it those shires now called Somerset and Devon. Though the Saxons had gained thus far a per manent footing in England, yet Ave have seen, by a vast nuraber of facts, that the Britons were not wholly subdued; since Cornwall and the adjacent parts of Devon (in which no doubt Dartmoor, on the borders of the latter, was included) raight still, in a great measure, be called their own. For many years a continual warfare had been kept up between the Britons and Saxons, tUl Egbert, Avho succeeded Brihtric in the throne of Wessex, in 801, after de voting his first cares to the welfare pf his people, attempted the difficult task of reducing the ancient British chieftains to his obedience ; and the battle of Hengist-doAvn was decisive, though he was not the aggressor in that contest. That the Danes made great havoc in these parts at a subsequent period is Avell known. They burnt the cathedral and palace of Launceston in Cornwall, twelve miles from this town, Avhich caused the bishop's see to be removed to St. Germain's; and the ancient Saxon church there buUt still remains a 86 DEATH OF ORGAR. [lET. beautiful object in the eye of the antiquary and the artist. Lidford (of which more hereafter) was also burnt and ravaged ; and to this day in Taristock we have the foUoAring tradition respecting the havoc they made here. After the Danes landed near Danescombe, and met Arith a repulse on Hengist- down, some of them escaped, crossed the Tamar, and surprised Taristock, rushing into the town from a rugged hUl by the side of the old Launceston road, in those days said to have been the only entrance from the West. The inhabitants armed to a man, met them at the foot of the above-named hill ; a great battle ensued, which gave rise to the oldadage — " The blood which flowed down West Street Would heave a stone a pound weight." I am also informed (since I wrote my prerious letters), that a tradition is stiU current in this place, which asserts that Oakhampton Castle was a fa vourite residence Arith Orgax, Earl of Devon. Not having had an opportunity of acquainting myself with the history of that castle, (whose singular and romantic ruins I have seen Arith admfration,) I cannot say how far this is likely to be false or true ; though when that tradition adds, as it does, that Orgar was residing there at the period Taristock Abbey Avas burnt by the Danes, we know, by chronological records, it must be incorrect; as he died twenty years before the conflagration took place. Two or three forts at the mouth of the Tamar, nearly op posite Mount Edgecumbe, I am assured, axe consi dered to have been very ancient constructions ; and were most probably intended to protect the coast from the incursions of these foreign marauders. XXV.] RAVAGES BY THE DANES. 87 It was in the year 997 that a Danish fleet, under the command of Sweyn, entered the Severn ; and after numerous successful depredations, sailed round the Land's End, and finally turned its course up the Tamar. Though these invaders then burnt Lid ford, they must have quitted their ships many miles distant from that most ancient toAvn ; since never at any period could the Tamar have been narigable higher than New Bridge, three miles from Taristock. They carried fire and sword throughout the country ; and our abbey, but thirty-six years after its foun dation, was plundered and burnt to the ground. The marauders soon returned to thefr ships, laden Arith the spoU they had accumulated. Of the original building nothing perhaps remains, unless Ave except one portion of the boundary walls, (those of our garden,) Avhich must have been fire proof, as there never was any lead or Avood work about them ; and the blocks of stone of Avhich they are composed are held together Arith a cement so hard and admirable, that it appears to be like that seen in the stupendous walls of Pevensey Castle, the old Roman fortress on the Sussex coast. The abbey thus burnt and ravaged, though it remained for some time in ruins, was yet destined like the fabled phoenix, to rise once more from its ashes. By whom it was rebuUt is not, I believe, exactly knoAvn ; most probably not by an indiridual, but by many benefactors. Amongst these we may number Le Arcedekne, Vepont, Ferrars, Fitz-Ber- nard, Edgecumbe, and others. My brother con siders that its re-erection Avas probably owing to the exertions and UberaUty of Livingus, Avho was nephcAV to Brithwald, Bishop of St. Germain's, in Cornwall. 88 LIVINGUS. [let. This prelate is, indeed, so connected with the history of our abbey, that it may not here be amiss to offer some brief account of liim. Hooker and Prince reckon him araongst the illus trious natives of this county ; and the latter is care ful in distinguishing him from Livingus, surnamed Elstanus, Archbishop of Canterbury, who crowned Canute king of England, and died in 1020. Certain it is that the abbey must have been re- erected in his time ; and so far finished as to be capable of receiring the monks, since our Liringus was some time abbot of Tavistock, and was advanced to the see of Devon in 1032. His palace stood at Crediton, and he Avas the last bishop who there resided during life. Canute valued him for his piety and Avisdom ; and so much Avas he in favour with that king, that he made choice of the Bishop of Devon shire as the companion of his journey to the tomb of St. Peter and St. Paul at Rome. Returning in the same year, 1031, Livingus found his uncle, Brith- Avald, dead ; upon which Canute, from the great love he bore to the companion of his pilgrimage, gave him his late uncle's see of St. Germain's in CornwaU, allovring him still to hold Crediton, and not long after he added to these dignities by making him Bishop of Worcester. It is not improbable that such a plurality of pre lacies being heaped on the favourite excited discon tent in those who aspired to church preferment, and who might think they Avere overlooked or neglected for the sake of one man, in their oavu opinion not more deserring than themselves. Hence might have arisen envy, the fertile mother of falsehood and slander ; and the Avorthy character of the prelate XXV.] LIVINGUS. 89 proved to be no security against the shafts aimed at him by such enemies as these : for he Avas charged by Alfricus, Archbishop of York, as being accessary to the death of Alfred, the eldest son of King Ethefred; the archbishop having himself been re moved from his own see but a short time before, on account of his busy temper in secular affairs. Alfred's death had been brought about by many circumstances that excited a general feeling of com miseration for the unfortunate young prince. Canute, though he had engaged vrith the Duke of Normandy that his issue by his marriage with Emma should become his successors, nevertheless named Harold, the son of a former union, his heir to the crown, to the great discontent of the English ; who desired to see Hardicanute, a prince born araong them, suc ceed to the throne. The jealousies of these con tending parties ran so high, that a civil Avar Avas likely to be the result, Avhen a present peace Avas secured by compromise. The terras were, that Harold should hold the provinces north of the Thames, and Hardicanute keep those on the south, and during the absence of the last-named prince, his mother Emma assumed the regal authority in the place of her son. But however secure Harold might appear to be in his possessions, he thought himself not so Avhilst the sons of Emma by her former husband, Ethel red the Saxon, were in existence. Earl Godwin, from motives of ambition, had espoused the interests of Harold, and was kept firm to them by a hope being held out that lus daughter should becorae the Avife of that tyrant. He did not hesitate, therefore, to join in the cruel plan now framed for the de- 90 LIVINGUS. [let. struction of the young Saxon princes, Avho at this time were Arith their mother, Queen Emma, at Win chester ; and as some said, Avith a view to attempt making good their pretensions to the crown. If Harold knew, or only suspected their intentions, is a matter of doubt ; but certain it is, he inrited Alfred, the elder brother, to London, with every promise of an honourable reception. Thus was he deceived; and setting forward on his way, attended by many followers, he had not proceeded farther than GuUd- ford in Surrey, Avhen he was surprised by the treache rous Earl GodAvin, his people slain, and himself, cruelly deprived of sight, committed as a prisoner to the monastery of Ely, where it pleased God to end his suff"erings by a speedy death. This cruel deed appears to have excited a general feeling of indignation; and it is not improbable Alfricus might seek to gain his OAvn restoration to the see of York, by paying court to the popular feel ing ; and to Harold, in the endeavour to fasten the guUt of the murder on another man, when the Idng was grievously suspected of being concerned in the act. A bishop that held three sees in his own per son was not, perhaps, he considered, the worst ob ject he could fasten upon to make hun appear cri minal; and the worthy Livingus was accordingly vehemently accused by the deposed archbishop. The affafr must have been unusually prolonged, as not tUl the reign of Hardicanute did the artftJ Alfricus so far succeed as to obtain the dismissal of the innocent bishop fi-om his preferments in the church. This deprivation did not, however, last long. It is most probable that Liringus owed his restoration not so much to his want of guUt, for that XXV.] LIVINGUS. 91 was a poor plea against tyranny, as to the cunning and the contemptible conduct of the king ; for Har- dicauAite, notwithstanding his Avrath towards the murderers of his half-brother, was mean and base enough to accept a bribe (a gilded gaUey manned by rowers decorated Arith bracelets of gold) from Earl Godxrin, who thus found an easy way to escape justice. In order to let him appear guUty, it was necessary to acquit Livingus, who had been so falsely accused as his accompUce in the crime. These circumstances form the most probable solu tion of the cause that procured the restoration of the Bishop of Devonshire to all his honours; no small instance of good fortune in the reign of such a tyrant ; and this event seems to be the last of any public import in the hfe of Liringus. His latter days were spent in peace, in the regular discharge of his episcopal duties, and in the innocent and deUght ful pursuits of letters. He composed during his retirement a work, Avhich, could it now be recovered, wou.ld form, indeed, one of the curiosities of Utera ture ; according to Prince's translation, its title was " Canute's Pilgrimage, and his OAvn Doings." Livingus, notArithstanding all his troubles, lived through the reigns of four kings ; a thing not very common with one so eminent, who had been assailed by the envy and jealousy of others in times so marked by riolence and injustice. Historians and antiquaries differ as to the place of his death ; but Hooker is of opinion that it occurred at his favourite Monastery of Tavistock; of which he had been chosen the first abbot after its rebuUding, and where his munificence had been so largely displayed. However his mind might be at rest at the time of 92 LIVINGUS. [let. . his dissolution, he could hardly be said to depart in peace ; since the monks have recorded that, at the A-ery hour of his decease, the greatest storm shook aU England that had been felt for many years.— " Horrisonus crepitus per totam AngUam auditus, ut ruina et finis totius putareter orbis." Prince, however, is of opinion that this " horrible crack of thunder," as he calls it, " did rather prognosticate the ruin Avhich threatened the liberties of England" on that great change which so speedily succeeded, in the invasion of our island by William the Conqueror. Be this as it may, Liringus died as the Avorthy would Arish to die, in a good old age, in favour Avith God and man. He Avas buried in the Abbey Church of Tavistock. Hooker says he departed this life on the 23d of March, 1049; but the Saxon Chronicle fixes that event in 1044, Avhen it siraply states, "This year -Living, Bishop of Devonshire, died, and the king's priest Leofric succeeded hira." Another remarkable person also ended his days in our abbey in these early times ; and he was Edwy Atheling, a son of King Ethelred, grandson of Elfrida, and great grandson of Orgar, the founder. Alarmed by the jealousy of Canute, Avho, like his son Harold, looked with an eye of suspicion on the princes of the Saxon line, Edwy sought a refuge in the abbey : he did not very long survive, and was buried in the church; no vestige remains of his tomb. Many noble persons were munificent patrons of the monastic foundation of Taristock. WiUiam Rufus, in the year 1096, confirmed to the monks a mansion called Walsinton, Avhich they made it ap pear they had a right to consider their oAvn, time out XXV.] BENEFACTORS OF TAVISTOCK. 93 of mind, though some busy men on the part of the croAvn would have depriA'ed them of that possession. The grant of Walsinton was confirraed to Ta vistock in the presence of Walchaline, Bishop of Winchester, Turstin, superior of Glastonbury, and other ecclesiastics, by the king presenting to the abbot an iA'ory laiife, on the handle of Avhich Avcre these Avords: — Ego WHUelmus Rex dedi Deo, et Sanctse Marise de Taristoc terrain Wlerintune. From Dugdale, we Ukewise learn that Robert Old Bridge gave to the abbey the lands of Wyne- merston, on a stipulation that the lord abbot should pay to him ten marks in silver, with liberty for him to take up his abode Avithin the Avails whenever he might Avish to retire from the Avorld; and in the interval, that, every day he should visit or continue in TaA'istock, he might claim the alloAvance given to one monk, if he chose to ask for it. Robert Fitz BaldArin restored the lands of Passe- ford. King Henry I. ordered Rinberg and Eu- delipe, which had been taken from the monks, to be restored. He granted to them likeAvise all the churches in the isles of Scilly, confirmed to them by his son Reginald, Earl of Cornwall, the tithes of which were granted to the abbey by the Bishop of Exeter at that period. King Edward took the church of the island of Enmour, in SciUy, under his protection, ordering the constable of the castle there to guard the same from all insults and injuries. By deed of " Odo le Arcedeakne," knight, bearing date the day of St. Mark the EvangeUst, the seven teenth of EdAvard I., he resigns to the monks for the health of his own soul, and the souls of all his famUy, the lands of Westlydeton ; and the said 94 BENEFACTORS OF TAVISTOCK. [lET. monks for the good of their oAvn souls, in the year 1291, appropriated all the revenues of these lands to the purchase of clothes and shoes for the poor in Christ, to be yearly distributed among them on the feast of All Souls. By an agreement between the Abbot of Taristock and the Prior of Plymton, the latter obUged himself and his successors to do certain acts of suit and serrice to the former ; namely, to attend the abbot, at his OAvn charges, whenever he made his risitation ¦within the diocese of Exeter ; to proride him with sundry loaves of white bread, two flagons of Arine, and five wax tapers, whenever he risited his manor of Plymstocke ; to present every new abbot Arith a palfrey and a groom during his perambulation ; to confirm his rights, until the day of his instalment; and on the feast of St. Michael, to proride him Arith a chaplain, who was a good clerk, for the chm-ch of Plymstocke. Bronscombe, the celebrated Bishop of Exeter *, appropriated to our abbey the churches of Tavis tock, Lamerton, Middleton, Abbedesham, North- pyderAvyn, Hatherleigh, and Brentor. The bull of Pope Celestin, dated 1193, confirmed all donations made to this house, and all pririleges whatsoever. In the year 1280, Reginald Ferrars, the Lord of Beer, "* His tomb, iu Exeter Cathedral, still exists, and for the pure style and beauty of its execution ranks amongst the finest in Europe. The attitude in which the figure reposes, the head, limbs and dra peries, remind one, in their grandeur and simplicity, of the works of Raphael. It is much to be regretted that about ten years since, the workmen, in repairing the cathedral, knocked off a hand from this effigy, and displaced au angel that supported the head. The latter was restored; but no one having felt interest enough about the tomb to inquire for the hand, it was, I believe, never found. XXV.] WEALTH OF THE ABBOTS. 95 and Isota of Ferrars, of Nyweton Ferrars, gave to the monks of the abbey of Taristock aU their lands in Cornewoode, on thefr performing the customary homage for the same. In the second of Richard IL, WilUam Edge cumbe, of Cotele, resigned to the abbey aU claim on the park of Innersleigh, in the manor of Middleton, and John D' Abernon of Bradeford, gave to the same house all his manor of Wyke, near Brentor, and his lands and tenements at HolyweU. Many other were the benefactors to this costly foundation ; but I have here mentioned the principal. Over this monastery presided thfrty-six abbots, from its institution to the time of its dissolution. Two of these, Livingus and Aldred, were made bishops ; the latter is said to have placed the croAvn on the head of William the Conqueror. John Dynington, who was the superior in 1450, Avas charged by one of the Bishops of Exeter Arith too much attention to the adornment of his person, and possibly Arith some truth ; as he was the man who stirred the question Arith King Henry VI., that the abbots of Taristock should be aUowed to enjoy the privUege of wearing the pontificalia — the licence for which I shall presently copy from my brother's notices. Its particularity forms a very good iUustration of the ecclesiastical vestments of the time. If, however, John Dynington had a too curious taste in his attire, it should seem he did not confine his attention to outward things of that de scription ; and that he was not less attentive to the edifices of his community. My brother says of him : "Dynington probably made large repafrs and addi tions to the buUdings of the abbey, as most of the 98 POVERTY OF A PARISH PRIEST. [lET. remains of these now extant are characterized by the deep label moulding, and obtusely pointed arch which became the prevailing characteristics of Gothic architecture toAvards the close of the fifteenth cen tury. The great gate of the abbey is decorated Avith two minarets of this period, and the parapet of its pointed roof is crenellated and embattled ; certainly a misapplication of the crenellated forra, and a speciraen of perverted taste." Whilst the abbot and his monks Avere, as above stated, grown rich, and had all things subservient to their desires and their luxuries, the poor parish priest was labouring Avith indigence and Avant. Some few years since, among the papers in the parish chest, Avas found a petition from the officiating priest to the parishioners assembled in the vestrj', abso lutely begging for a pair of shoes ! The document, Avhich Avas found and read by my husband's father, is no longer in existence, (at least Ave find no traces of it,) or I should here insert it. From this petition Ave may gather that the Avorthy monks who took such care of their OAvn, souls, as to give aAvay the reve nues of Westlydeton in apparel and shoes to the "poor in Christ," did not consider their poor brother of the secular clergy to be of that number, and so they let him go barefoot. This is a trifling cfrcumstance, but in such trifles as these Ave may trace the spirit of jealousy betAveen the monks and the parish priests, that commenced in the time of Dunstan, and was never after AvhoUy set at rest. Truly the officiating minister Avas not overwhelmed Arith this world's goods, and Avith him they seem little to have re garded the text, that those who preach the gospel ¦should live by the gospel; for Avhilst the abbot of XXV.] BENEDICTINE MONKS. 97 Tavistock was, in the reign of Henry VIII., ho nored with a mitre, and made a peer of the realm, by the title of Baron of HurdAvick (Avhich is now one of the titles of the Duke of Bedford, to Avhose ances tors the lands of the abbey were granted at the dis solution,) and enjoyed revenues of nearly one thou sand a-year, in those days an enormous income ; the poor priest of Tavistock Church was only entitled to ten pounds per annum. John Banham, the abbot Avho received the mitre, and Avas called to Parliament by Henry VIII. the same year, maintained a long- contest Avith Hugh Oldham, Bishop of Exeter, about the liberties of his church, and was so far successfril that he gained the sanction ofthe Pope for Avhat he did, who excommu nicated the luckless Bishop but a short time before his death ; so that his body could not be buried till this fearful sentence was reraoA'ed by an application to Rorae. I have a foAV observations to add concerning the order of monks here established during so long a period, and then, for the present, I raust say adieu. In the Anglo-Saxon monasteries, where there Avas much of true holiness, as Avell as of superstition, the utmost simplicity prevailed in regard to dress, espe cially after the Benedictine rule had, in the ninth cen tury, usurped that of all others in England. Here, then, may Ave fancy that we see the good Livingus in his Benedictine attire, — a tunic and coavI, black in colour, and, in his day, formed of the coarsest wool len stuff; a broad belt girds his garments about the middle, from which depends his almonier, or little pouch ; he carries about him a knife, a steel pen, and a table-book to note down his thoughts; a rosary A'OL. II. F 98 BENEDICTINE MONKS. [leT. is by his side ; a cross suspended on his breast ; his black mantle is large and full, and, as an abbot, he has a right to wear it Arithout as Avell as within the church. The brothers of his order Avear a black scapula as their ordinary or working dress ; they also have a cowl, but their long woollen mantle is Avorn only in the churcli. In addition to the knife, each monk is sup pUed Avith a needle, and, those Avho are most holy, vrith a rod, to inflict on themselves, in the most Uteral manner, " JIuch castigation, exercise devout." Hair shirts Avere, likewise, often worn ; they Avere in deed of very ancient date, and had, no doubt, their origin in the East ; for St. Chrysostom mentions the hair shirt as forming part of the dress of the oriental monks. I am inclined to think that such hair shirt was not one of torture, and that Chrysostom referred to the material of Avliich eastern clothing was then generally made — the camel and the goats' hair. In other countries a less delicate material might have been adopted, and became an irritating and trouble some dress Avhen worn next the skin. But as Ave know that to this day the camel' s-hair shawls of India are the softest in the world, how can we be Ueve that the early eastern clothing formed of it could have been anything like a garb of torture ? The monks in the times of the Anglo-Saxons were bare-legged, and their " shoon " resembled the classical sandal. Fosbrooke in his very learned work on monachism, mentions that risiters were re ceived among them, the holy men " giring- them wa ter to cleanse their hands, washing their feet, vriping them Arith a towel, and inriting them to dine at nine XXV.] BENEDICTINE MONKS. 99 o'clock in the morning." And the rule of Pacho- mius orders "that the feet of visiters be washed, even if clerks or holy monks." The Benedictines Avere celebrated for their charity and hospitality to strangers ; a noble hall is gene rally found in the edifices of their order. There was one at Taristock ; but all account of Avhat still re mains of the abbey I must defer till ray next letter. In the interval. Allow me to remain, my dear Sir, Very faithfully and truly yours, Anna E. Bray. f2 100 LETTER XXVI. TO ROBERT SOUTHEY, ESQ. Contents. — Dissolution of the Abbey — Devastation of the Reforma tion—Henry VIII. not governed by religious motives in throwing off the yoke of Rome— His Six Articles— Cupidity of his courtier? and dependents— Their selfishness in the spoliation of the Church — Sixtfenth century one of great corruption — The time of chas tisement — Immediate evils attending the ruin of monasteries — Reformed Clergy, with few exceptions, ignorant men — Indecency and impiety in the spoliation of the abbey churches — Edward VI., his amiable character — Fiery trial reserved for the holy martyrs of fhe Reformation — Learned and pious men who fiourishedjn the succeeding reigns, particularly in that of Charles I. — Cardinal Maury's opinion not founded on truth — Subject resumed — Dissolu tion of Tavistock Abbey — Last abbot — Grant of the abbey lands to the Russell family — Mr. Bray's acc(mut ofthe remains ofthe abbey buildings — Chapter-house taken down — Havoc amongst the anti quities — Recent discoveries — The gateway S. W. — Betsy Grimbal's tower — Murder there committed — Superstition respecting it — The porch-pinuacle — Bones of an infant found in breaking into a wall — Abbot's bail — Refectory — Sarcophagus — Giant's bones — Saxon school — Tower remiirkable for masonry — Parish church — Extracts from some very curious old churchwarden's accounts — Old paint ings on panel^The church-j'ard — The bells — Singular custom of the sextou at funerals — Superstition of Midsummer eve — Death of the Luggars — Their story related — Muffled bells at their funeral — Fjtz and Glanviile, their monuments — Honorary monument fo Queen Elizabeth ; to Fortescue — Altar, decorated — Gothic table— Saxun school — Printing press — Books printed in the abbey — Ex tract, given at large, from the Rev. George Oliver's most interesting account of all fhe abbots of Tavistock, copied by him from the Re gistry of the Bishops preserved at Exeter. Vicarage, Tavistock, August 29, 1832. My DEAR Sir, The next event which I have to communicate respecting our abbey is its dissolution ; an occur- XXVI.] OF THE REFORMATION. 101 rence not only in this instance, but in all others throughout the kingdom, sincerely to be regretted by every unprejudiced Protestant, for surely the mo nasteries, as well as the church, might have been reformed Avithout being entirely overthrown. You have so ably expressed your opinion on this point, in the 'Colloquies,' and I have A'entured to give mine, in a former letter, on the sarae subject, that little need here be said, unless it be to regi-et that violence, that angry spirit Avhich generally accom panies all great changes, even when they are ulti mately a benefit; so much does enmity or passion mingle its leaven with the best things — a sad proof of the imperfection of human nature, and a no less salutary Avarning to show how careful all should be Avho venture to touch on ancient institutions, lest they do more than is necessary, and in their haste overthrow that which they can never afterwards re pair. Old buUdings, like old customs and laAvs, are not the groAvth of a day ; years of labour and gene rations of Avisdom have been as the parents of both, and pity is it that a few months or days of innovation, and a few thoughtless or violent men should make such destruction, and render all the toils of the past as nothing. The benefits of the Reformation are Avell under stood, the sins of it have been less noticed; and that good came out of so rauch evil was more the result of divine than human causes. God, in the Avisdom of his inscrutable counsels, AVorks by means that on a first view soraetimes appear contradictory. Bad men are frequently but as his instruments, Avhile they seem to folloAV the career of their own selfish oir stormy passions ; for in the end we generally find 102 OF THE REFORMATION. [lET. he but employs them, as he does the Ughtning and the Avinds, to clear away what is noxious, to purify, or to renovate ; when the beautiful and the serene in the moral AVorld foUoAV after ; even as the bow of promise, and a bright sun, and a refreshed earth succeed the disturbance and turmoil of the elements in that physical Avorld Avhich lies before our vicAV. That Henry VIII., when he throAv off the yoke of Rome, Avhen he repudiated a blameless wife, and overthroAV monasteries and abbies, was really a re former for the sake of the reformed faith, no one, I beUeve, of any party, for a moraent even fancies. His Six Articles are sufficient proof that it Avas the restraining power, and not the corrupt doctrine of the Church of Rorae, that he was anxious to destroy ; and the cupidity, the pride, the extravagant living of his himgry dependents and courtiers caught eagerly at the lure that such rich prizes as desecrated church lands held out, and — " doAvn with the monasteries for their abuses " was then the plea ; Avhen the cry of the daughter of the horse-leech, " Give, give," Avould better have expressed the motive. That the sixteenth century was one of great cor ruption, of great immorality, of much false religion, and of many enormities in its professors, cannot be denied. The time was ripe for chastisement, and God sent the storm, and idolatry and falsehood, in this country, fell before it. But the imme dia,te ef fects were, perhaps intended, as they were found to be, an eril. For, saring a fcAV such men as Latimer and Cranmer, how long was it before the reformed clergy, who succeeded the OA'erthrow of the popish priests, were truly worthy their high caUing as guides and leaders of the flock of Christ ! XXVI.] OF THE REFORMATION. 103 Poor brings found but poor scholars and needy men to fill their place. The clergy were degraded into an impoverished and dependent body in the eyes of the people ; and conterapt with the vulgar was the certain consequence of such misfortunes : since base men OA'er look on poA'erty as a crime — they respect what a man has more than Avhat he is ; and though the populace were no longer allowed to feed their imagination Avith the splendid shows, or the candles, and the flowers, and the images of the Church of Rome, their reason was not rauch raore enlightened than whilst it had been held in its former state of darkness. The idol Superstition was torn away ; but the pedestal, on which she stood erect. Ignorance, stiU remained, and too many made it as an altar of sacrifice to the spirit of evil against the church. Can we then wonder that to rifle abbeys, to riolate the sanctuary, to tear doAvn the noblest monuments of piety and of art (Avhich our forefathers ih singleness of heart had oflfered as a habitation fit for the Avorship of their God) ; to com mit sacrilege, deface the effigies of the great, the noble, and the good, to disturb from their place of repose the mouldering ashes of the dead, to seize the very plate from the altar, and, like the impious king of old, to raake it subservient to the purposes of luxury and indulgence, were things that the bold, the avaricious, and the heartless did without remorse ; whilst the fearful looked on and trembled, and the Aricked and the ignorant looked on and laughed. These were the sins of the Reformation. As the poor lost the charity of those ancient houses whose doors had been ever open to relieve them, the old and the pious, (for there were many;) who had re- 104 EDWARD THE SIXTH. [lET. tired from a world of Avhich they Avere grown Aveary, were once more cast upon its stormy waters, when they were but themselves a Avreck, and could no longer stem the torrent, or Avith a safe conscience sail doAvn the current of the times. But these moral evils had their date ; and though days of misery, of persecution, and of soitoavs " even unto death," in tervened, the sun of the Reformation at length came forth from the cloud, and the harvest and the joy spread beneath its beams. The guardian king, Avho Avatched its progress with so much zeal and love, was too soon snatched fi-om this world to one Avhere his pure spirit Avas destined to find its early and rich roAvard. Happy for himself, but grievous for England, Edward died before even his days of such glorious proraise had ripened into manhood. He lived not to bless this country Arith an age "full of years and full of honours ;" but to him may truly be applied Avhat a French writer said of a Dauphin of France, Avho also died in his youth : " That heaven, counting his virtues, esteemed him old, and took him to his rest." The day of the fiery trial was next reserved for the Reformation ; and as the holy martyrs stood in prayer and agony, (like their Redeemer in the gar den,) burning at the stake, the spirit of the Re formed Church caught brightness from their flames, and came forth from them, as did the brothers from the fiery furnace, glorifying God in the face of aU the Avorld. The church had stood the trial and approved itself Avorthy, and God removed the flaming sword from the tree of life, and gave the olive branch in its stead. From that time, down to the days of Charles the Xxvi.] LIGHTS OF THE REFORMATION. 105 First, great and shining lights arose in succession ; and not since the days of the Fathers, Avho came after the apostles, have, perhaps, so many truly gi-eat divines been found in any church as iii that of the Reformed and Established Church of England. In proof of this, Avho that feels a pride in the virtue, the genius, the piety of his native land, can do other than glory in repeating the names of Hooker, the au thor ofthe 'Ecclesiastical Polity;' — of Fuller, Avhose sermons, though, like those of the admirable Lati mer, somoAvhat quaint, are only less.valued than his Church History because they are less known ; — of the learned and orthodox Brownrigg ; — of Hall, venerable aUke in his writings and his life; — ofthe pious and single-hearted Bishop Andrews ; — of the apostolic Jeremy Taylor ;— the admirable AUestree and Donne ; — of Raleigh, (the nephew of the great Sir Walter Raleigh,) avIio was basely murdered in his prison, Avhere he had been consigned for ad hering to the cause of his unfortunate master, Charles the First ? Of this divine, ChillingAvorth said, " he Avas the most powerful reasoner he had ever encoun tered;" and Raleigh's sermon on one of the most difficult points of doctrine — that of election con sistent Avith free-Avill— is argued Avith such clearness and strength, that there needs no other proof how Avell merited Avas the eulogium of his friend. But Avhat praise shall speak the excellencies of Far rindon ? of Farrindon, now slumbering in neglect, but whose Avorks must surely one day be revived; and Avhose power to touch the heart, though it were hard as a rock, and make it yield a spring of living Avaters, has never yet been exceeded by any Avriter of any age ; — of Beveridge, Avhose sermon on the text f3 106 LIGHTS OF THE REFORMATION. [lET. " I am that I am," Steele (to whom many of the obsolete diAnines were unknown) considered the finest in our language. Barrow is known to every student ; but not so Harris, who preached in Lon don during the plague, Arith the fearlessness, the devx)tion, and the poAver of a true servant of God, sent at such a moment to call all men to repentance. Had Cardinal Maury, the author of the celebrated French work on the 'Eloquence ofthe Pulpit,' known the writings of these men (and many others might be named) he would never have said that we had neither a Masillon, nor a Bourdaloue, nor a Bossuet in our English dirinity ; nor Avould he have con sidered the only old divine Avith whom he seems to be really acquainted in our language, the sensible and worthy Tillotson, as our best sermonist. But no Avonder that foreigners underrate us, Avhen we underrate ourselves, and suffer the works of such a man as Farrindon to remain only in a fcAV scarce copies, unread, neglected, almost totally unknoAvn, whilst Ave continuall}' reprint the AArritings of Barrow and Taylor, as if they (excellent as they are) Avere the only Avorks AVorthy of becoming standard in the divinity of our Established Church'^. To return, hoAvever, from this digression to our abbey. In the notices before quoted, and Avi-itten by * For the delight afforded me in the perusal of these old divines, I am indebted to Mr. Biay, by whose advice I read many of their best works. He published some years ago a compressed and modernized selection from several of them. Indeed he had studied these writers as sedulously as a painter would study iu the schools of the great Italian masters. Since then his attention has been turned to original composition ; but he had previously prepared (and still has by him unpublished), a large collection, in a readable and popular form, from these old writers, as well as translations from the most eloquent of Ihe XXVI.] TAVISTOCK ABBEY. 107 my brother, I find he thus speaks of the circum stances attending its dissolution : — " John Pyryn succeeded Banham, and, with the monks assembled in chapter, surrendered the abbey to the King's commissioners on the 20th March, 1538. Of the tAventy-two signatures which appear on the margin of the deed of surrender, the follovring may be noted- The abbot and the prior sign first — ' Per me Joh'ero Abbate,' ' per me Robertu Walsh, priore' — then in discriminately are found — 'Joh'es Harriss, sub-prior. Rye (Ricardus) custos,' &c. The abbot retired on a pension of one hundred pounds per annum, at that period a very large one ; the prior had a stipend of ten pounds per annum ; the sub-prior one of eight pounds ; the monks from six pounds to five pounds six shillings and eight-pence each ; and two novices Avere allowed two pounds per annum. The abbot continued to reside at Tavistock '*, in the enjoyraent of the corafortable provision which had been as signed hinh : at which place, in the year 1549, he made his Avill, which being proved in April, 1550, we may conclude that he died about that time. " The dissolved Abbey of Tavistock and its depen dencies Avere, by the King's letter-patent, dated the fourth of July, in the thirty-first year of his reign, granted to John Lord Russel, Ann his wife, and thefr lawful heirs raale, at a certain reserved rent -j-. Lord Russel had been received into the favour of Henry VII., knighted by his successor, and created a baron Fathers. It is to be hoped these may all one day see the light, as iu the present scarce and voluminous state of many of the original authors, they are little likely, in any other way, to become kuown to the general reader. * The old house in which he lived has' lately beea taken down. -j- See Farm Roll, Augmentation Office. 108 THE RUSSEL FAMILY. [lET. of the realm ; nominated Lord Warden of the Stan naries in Devon and Cornwall, Lord Privy Seal, and one of the Councillors of Edward VI., during his minority. He was constituted Lord High SteAvard at the coronation of that youthful monarch, and on the insurrection which broke out at Sampford Cour tenay, in Devon, and Avhich Avas followed by the siege of the capital of the West, Exeter, Lord Rus sel marched against the rebels, totally routed and dispersed them. For these services he was shortly after created Earl of Bedford. It is not the object of these notes to enter at length into the history of this ancient and noble house ; suffice it to say, that William, the fifth descendant from the Earl, was, in the reign of William and Mary, created Marquis of Tavistock and Duke of Bedford, and his present Avorthy descendant, John Duke of Bedford, is in possession of the lands and ecclesiastical impropri ations of the dissolved abbey." Having thus come to the dissolution of our mo nastery, something must here be said concerning the portions of the ancient buildings that still exisfc notAvithstanding the havoc so largely and so repeat edly made amongst them. For this purpose I have been looking over Mr. Bray's manuscript notes, Avritten several years since, respecting the remains of Tavistock Abbey. These observations raay not have so much interest as he could wish ; but as some of the vestiges he mentions are now no longer in existence, the notes of Avhat he saw and described in his youth ought to be preserved. I have gleaned from a mass of papers Avhat folloAVs in this letter. "The site," says Mr. Bray, "of the abbey ex tends from east to Avest along the north bank of the XXVI.] folly ORCHARD. 109 river Tavy. The principal entrance was at the north, close to the eastern boundary. This gateway is in high preservation, Avith its gate at least as perfect as that at Temple Bar ; to which it bears some resemblance, by having on one side a postern, or foot passage *. There are two other gateways to the south and Avest, the former of which leads to the banks of the river, Avhere, till GuUe or Abbey- bridge Avas erected, there was a ford ; and the latter to the abbot's gardens and stew ponds, which still exist f . " About one hundred years ago, a considerable portion of these venerable edifices was taken down, to erect on the spot the large but inconvenient building commonly called the Abbey-house. This havoc Avas committed by a Mr. Saunders, Avho, not for these barbarities, however, but for buUding so large a house on another man's property, was, and in a manner is still ridiculed, by the name of Folly Orchard being given to sorae grounds Avhich he oc cupied Arith it. I never understood, as some assert, that he Avas the Duke of Bedford's steward ; at any rate he certainly Avas not a wise one. A very old and inteUigent lady of this place. Miss Adams, who remembers Saunders's wife, informs me that part of the building which he tore down Avas a school- house. Some have supposed that it Avas the Saxon school "* Mr. Bray tells me that ever since his remembrance, till very lately, this gateway was used by a fellmonger for drying wool. Under the flight of steps leading to it was the clink; but it is uow destroyed, and he beUeves it was of no very ancient date. The place where prisoners are now confined is situated very near, though it does not communicate with the gateway, but with the ancient guildhall. f This is no longer the case, recent alterations have destroyed all but one of the stew ponds. 110 S.W. GATEWAY [lET. and chapter-house, which Prince (who Avrote mot very long before Saunders comraitted these spo liations) thus describes. ' There is still standing the refectory, or common hall ; a very spacious room, of great length, breadth, and height, lately con verted into a Non-conformist meeting-house ; and the Saxon school and chapter-house, a pile of great beauty, built so round as can possibly be marked with a compass; yet Arithal of large dimensions, there being on the inside thereof six-and-thirty seats wrought out in the Avails, all arched overhead vrith curious hewn and carved stone *.' " The gateway S.W." continues Mr. Bray, "com municated with the gardens and pleasure-ground of the abbey : it consists of a vaulted passage about nine paces in length, and eight feet in height, between two towers, that present to the front the three apparent sides of an octagon. The southern * Prince also says — "The abbots' palace was a glorious building, now wholly demolished ; of very late years was the kitchen standing, now razed to the foundation, being a large square room, open to the roof, which was of timber so geometrically done, that eveu architects themselves did admire the curiosity thereof." Recent discoveries have proved that it was the chapter-house which Saunders, of barbarous memory, thus destroyed. In fhe year 1830, on making some additions to the Bedford Office, which stauds close to the abbey-house (now an inn), part of the beautiful pavement of the chapter-house, consisting of tiles, bearing the figures of lions and fishes, was discovered. Mr. Kempe says of this — "that the lion passant, or rampant, has been borne in the armorial coat of the Earls of Cornwall ever since the time of Reginald (base son of Henry I.. a benefactor to our abbey), and that by the fishes some allusion to the possessions in fhe Scilly Isles may be intended." I observed amongst the rubbish dug up on the spot where the tiles were found, part of a Gothic niche, beautifully carved, and still retaining its red aud other colours, for it had been painted. The sight of this fragment made me but the more regret the miserable destruction which such a man as Saunders had been allowed to effect. XXVI.] grimbal's TOWER. 'Ill tower, called Betsey Grimbal's, is so. denominated from a tradition that a woman thus named was there murdered by a soldier. Within my own recollec tion, there Avere many who pretended to shoAv where the Avail Avas stained Avith her blood ; and when a child I was so little of a sceptic as firraly to believe that it Avas haunted, and never ventured to visit it alone. But, setting aside the Avant of verisimilitude in this vulgar fabrication, which from the locality of the situation should rather have suggested the story of some fair nun murdered, not by the hands of a soldier, but by some jealous monk, or enamoured abbot (of Avhich I fear there were not a few, as a tale I have to relate may lead one to suspect), the stains in the wall, or rather the plaster Avhich still adheres to it in some places, are solely the effects of damp. Probably some iron-stone, of Avhich there is a great quantity in the neighbourhood, corroded by the wet, tinged the drops of a ferruginous or red colour that percolated through the cracks. However, al- loAving rauch for fabrication, we raay fairlj' conclude that the story had its origin from some circumstance in which a female was concerned, and that some act of violence Avas committed on this spot. " At the back of the Abbey-house (now the Bedford Arms; stands a porch, croAvned with four lofty pinnacles, partially covered with the most lux uriant ivy. The ceiling of the vaulted entrance is of elegantly carved stone work; " The upper room is also vaulted Arith pendent wood work. In it is a chimney. As there was no communication to it, the door-way in a different direction being blocked up, a passage was broken through the wall a few years since, near one ot 112 SARCOPHAGUS. [lET. the corners, Avhere was a hoUoAv buttress or tur ret. Here sorae infant bones Avere found ; parts of the scull, sorae of the vertebra; and a thigh bone, which are stiU in ray possession *. The porch here described leads to what Avas supposed to be the Abbots' HaUf. " In making the foundation for the Abbey-house, the workmen dug up, according to tradition, a stone coffin, or sarcophagus, containing the bones now deposited in the. church, and called the giants bones. The sarcophagus is still in existence, and in my possession. Tt is very thick, but no more than four and a half feet long in the interior, and eighteen • The bones above alluded to by Mr. Bray are those of a veri/ young child, most probably a new-born infant. He keeps them in a carved horn box that belonged to the famous Sir Francis Drake. There is a passage in Fox's Book of Martyrs, which I well remember, though I have mislaid the note I made of it, wherein it was stated that at the dissolution of monasteries in this kingdom, the bones of infants were sometimes found in places where no such discoveries seemed likely to be suspected. f Whilst copying the above from Mr. Bray's old papers, he tells me that in Lysons' Devon, Vol. ii. p. 474, he is referred to for supposing that the apartment till within the last three years used as a ball-room, and now taken down to give place to the new one, was the refectory. This supposition, which Mr. Bray mentioned to Mr. Lysons, arose from his father having told him that it was so called in the Duke of Bedford's rentals ; and that what Browne Willis calls the Refectory was the Abbots' Hall. But he now rather doubts his father's cor rectness in this particular, especially as, for the same reason, the late Mr. Bray considered the Saxon school was under the ball-room, which does not correspond with the description given by Prince or Willis. He is the more disposed to think the latter antiquary right in regard to the Refectory (still used as a Unitarian meeting-house) as the Rev. Dr. Jago, of Mdton Abbt.t, an aged gentleman, tells him that he recollects a stone pulpit that was affixed to the side of the wall iu this apartment. It is well known that sermons or homilies were read to the monks whilst at dinner ; and the custom is still observed in some religious houses ou the continent. xxvi.] bones OF ORDULPH. 113 and a quarter inches in depth. It is not much unlike the shape of a coffin, being larger in the middle than at either end. The bones are of an extraordinary size, both human thigh bones. One raeasures twenty one inches long by five inches and a half in circum ference. The other is nineteen inches and a half long, by four inches and a half in circuraference. On the authority of Mr. Jaraes Cole, the sexton, Avho shoAvs thera Avith the church, they are said to be the ijones of Ordulph and his Avifc*. And though I presume not to assert that Ordulph, being himself a giant, Avould be content with less than a giantess for his partner, yet it seems not improbable that the smaUer bone might have been that of his father, Orgar, Earl of Devon. " From the size of the sarcophagus, if we suppose a giant Avas there deposited, he must have been tied neck and heels together. It is possible, in deed, that the bones might have been collected long after death and there placed as relics. And I am the more inclined to this opinion, as we know in AA'hat veneration the reUcs of the founder of an abbey were ahvays held ; and that father and son, who Avere the co-founders of our monastery, Avere both buried in it. There is every reason to be lieve f that the tomb of Orgar was not only repaired, but absolutely rebuilt, in the reign of Henry III. At that period, therefore, the bones of himself and of his son might have been collected and placed together. Or it is not impossible that the pious monks, on rebuilding the tomb of their » Malmesbury expressly declares Ordulph was of gigantic stature. f See Letter xxiii., Vol. ii. 114 the REFECTORY. [lET. founders, (after the abbey and its church had been burnt and ravaged by the Danes) might even then have exhumed and deposited their bones in one common sarcophagus, which had remained undis covered tUl the work of destruction was again com menced Avithin these hallowed enclosures by the barbarians of modern times, who dug them up in forming the foundations for the Abbey -house so often naraed, Avhen that of the ancient chapter Avas torn doAvn to make room for it. " There are sorae interesting and picturesque re mains, croAA'ned Avitli thefr lofty pinnacles, of the buUdings belonging to the abbey, yet standing in good preservation near the principal entrance at the north. Amongst them may be observed a tower, re markable for the beauty of its masonry. The ad joining apartments, in the occupation of a miller, overlook the river Tavy ; and seen from the oppo site bank, present altogether an admirable subject for the pencil of an artist like Prout. " 1 have omitted to mention that the old ball-room, erroneously called tl;ic Refectory, stood nearly north by south : it is on the first floor ; and I have reason to think communicated with Avhat Avas considered the Abbots' HaU (and which BroAATie WilUs, I doubt not correctly, declared to haA'e been the Refectory), by means of a gaUery. The old ball-room had also a passage of communication Arith the Abbey-house. WhUst my father Uved there, several years since, I restored some of the Avindows, Avhich had been plas tered over, when the muUions of the others were destroyed for the purpose of introducing modern sash Arindows ; the taste, I conclude, of Mr. Saun ders, who seems to have spared neither labour nor XXVL] TAA'ISTOCK CHURCH. 115 expense to do all the mischief he could possibly eff'ect. The windows thus restored had a beautiful appearance. The ceiling was modern, being some what A'aulted, but broken in the curve by a mould ing, and then becoming flat. As it was much decayed, it Avas taken down, when the original roof became risible, but so little of it remained, that I dared not recoramend the restoration, but con tented myself vrith giring it an uninterrupted curve. The Avood work, as well as I recollect, Avas of a trefoil form, elegantly but not very richly carved *." The foUoAring account of the parish church I copy from Mr. Bray's manuscript notes, and from my bro- thers " Historical Notices of Tavistock Abbey " in the Gentleman's Magazine. "The parish church," says the latter, "is dedi cated to St. Eustace, and Avas erected Avithin the cemetery of the abbey church. Leland thought it had not been buUt long before the dissolution, and that the parishioners had preriously a place of wor ship Avithin the abbey church ; this indeed was not unUkely, as other examples might readily be ad duced to shoAV. The parish church of Taristock was, howcA'er, certainly in existence in the reign of Richard II., and hoAv much earlier I have not discovered: it appears to have been under repair * It is of some importance, in investigating fhe ruins of abbeys, to know where to look for the sites of particular offices. Whitaker's account is factitious. Our authors (Hist, of Shrewsbury) plaee them as follows : — Dormitory. — Mostly, but not always, on the west side of the cloister. Refectory,— Genetd.\\y on the side of the cloister opposite to the church, and parallel with it. Chapter House. — Always on the eastern side, of the cloister, Abbola Lodging. — South-east of the church, though not invariably so. — Gentleman's Magazine, Nov. 1826. 116 TAVISTOCK CHURCH. [lET. in 1386. The exterior view exhibits a dark, lofty tower, under which is an archAvay forming a passage from the abbey precinct into the town ; four distinct roofs, extending from the toAver at the west to the termination of the building, indicate a spacious in terior. Among the documents to Avhich I had access in 1827, I found and deciphered the following very early churchwarden's account of the ninth year of Richard II. I shall give an extract from it on ac count of the curious items it contains : among these will be found a charge for collecting rushes for stroAving the church against the feast of John the Baptist, and the anniversary of the dedication ; for the expenses of a man and horse sent to buy Avax at Plymouth for lights in the church; charges for materials for repafring windoAVS, &c. ; for making three painted figures in the AvindoAV of the vestry ; for fuel ; for shutters to the great east windoAV ; for the bringing a mason to repair the said Avindow ; for drinkings to the workmen employed on the above ; rents frora the park of TreAvclake for maintaining Ughts at the altars of St. Nicholas, St. Stephen, St. John the Baptist, St. Katharine ; payments made to the sacrist of the parish church for offerings to the respective altars therein ; to the notary, for draAving the account, &c.*" *Tavystoke. S. Compu's custod'. hujus eccli'c beati Eustachii Ta vistock a^ festo luvenc'o'is s'c'e crucis sub anno d'ni millo ccc°»- octogesimo usq' ad id'm tu'c p'x'mS sequ' ann' d'm' millo ccc'""- Ixxxvi'"" Empcio cerffi. Idem comput. in cxl. lib. cerre emptis hoc anno Ivis. x"- custos et Repa'cio Ecclie. Idem computat' in cirpis colligend' con'. festum s'c'i Johis' baptistse iv""- Iu die dedicac' ois eccl'ie— In bo- keram emptis in repac'o'e vestementor'— In conduco'e unius viri ce- ram emere apud Plymouth ct unius equi expcus. Suis ibidem viii""- xxvi] TAVISTOCK CHURCH. 117 The paintings Avhich formed the subject of the engraving that appeared in the Gentleman's Maga- In quar'tio calcis (lime) empt xv" — In earriag. d'ce v — Carreragio latiid iv''- (carriage of stones) — In vet. vit. (old glass) empt. iii*. vi — I repac'oe unius fenestrse vitre. in fine ecc'lie iis. iiii" — In vi. pedibus novi vitri empt. viis. — In focalibus (fuel) empt. ii* — In Iviij. lib. plumbi empt. \vs, X. ob — In vii. lib. stanni empt. xviii" — In conduco'e unius machionis (mason) ad d'c'am fenestram reparand— In factura trium ymaginum in fenesti in vestiario xii"- — I' repa'coe trium claterium (shutters) ad magnara fenestram in fine eccl'ie vi" — In cibo et potu vi" — In libera ad opus fenest' iii"- ad campanas xii"; (for bell-ringing) — In rasina (resin) empt. iu fatura 1 1 (torches)— In 1 parva corda pro velo — In v. verg (yards) panni linei ad unum rochetum — In factura ejusd. rocheti vi"- — In factura unius cartse vi*- — In libitina (a bier) empt. viii — In repa'coe vestlmentorum p. a', vi" — In vestimentis la- vandis p. a' vi*- Item, ad cap. redditis parci de trewelake xvi"- Et diversis altaribus eccl'ie p'd'ce de redds, p'ci. pd'ci. viz, ad lumen sci nichi iii"- ad lumen sc'i Ste'phi iii"- ad lumen sci Joh, baptiste iii"- ad lumen see Katerine iii" — In clerico scribent. compot. xii" — In emen- dacoe fenest ii"- — In pergamino (parchinent) empto ii"- [The sum total of these expenses, of which I have only given ex tracts, is ZI. 7s, 3d,; then follows :] Liberacio denar" — Idem computat' in liba'colo sacristee" monasterii de Tavystocke pro oblacione perveniente ad altaria ecclesie parochialis predicts iii*. iv"- per ann — Pro altari see Marie apud la south dor vi*. viij"- a festo invencionis see crucis usque ad idem festum tunc proxime sequent'. Pro altari Sci Eustace xii"- per a. pro altari scse Katerinae xii"- pro altari sci blasii iv"- p'altari sci Johis Baptist vi"- pro altari see Trinitatis vi"- d. altari sci Georgii iv"- pro altari sci Salvatoris in ca- pella Joh. dabernoun iv"- [The account is subscribed " per me cleric " by the notary, who, I suspect, was a wag, as, instead of his signature, he affixes his notarial mark ; a head with an extraordinary long nose (perhaps this was in tended for his own portrait), having a quill stuck on the forehead by way of plume. Subjoined to the account is this postscript.] Sepum (tallow) pro mortario (a light burning at the shrines or tombs of the dead) — de xxxiv. lib. sepi de empeione hoc anu. Thesaurus ecc'lie. Idem R. de cupacum cnverculo (cup and cover) argento et duobus angelis de auratis tenent. vit. clan, corpus, d' m'cum (two gilt angels holding the body of our Lord enclosed in glass) ; et de iv ca- lices cum patenis argent. Et duobus cruetis (silver cruets) et de 1 pixide argenteo pro corpore xs. summa pat. Et reman I cupa cum cu- verculo, iv. calicos cum patenis 2 cruet' cum pixide argenteo. 118 CHURCH OF ST. EUSTACE. [lET. zine (February, 1830) Avere the next reUcs in point of antiquity appertaining to the church of St. Eu stace. The panels are two feet eleven inches in height, the longer piece four feet in length, the shorter about two feet ; the figures are canopied by the most tasteful and elegant carved Gothic foliage ; the mouldings Avhich dirided them no longer remain. but their situation is readily observed by the A-acant spaces betAveen the figures, and those Avho have a knowledge of the Gothic style of architecture and ornament Avill easily supply them. The first figure to the left hand is the martyred Stephen, his hands uplifted, and his head surrounded by a nimbus of glory, the distinguishing emblem of saints ; the next figure is St. LaAvrence holding the instrument of his martyrdom, the gridiron. These are all that remain of a series of saints which were probably at least nine in number, to correspond Arith the nine grades of the angelic hierarchy, Avhich are distinguished with wings ; of the latter remain the personifications ofthe Archangeli, Cherubira, Potestates, and a fourth Arith the crown and sceptre, the inscription of which was probably Principatus.* The style of the armour "•* The five other grades were — Throni, Angeli, Seraphim, Domini- tus, and Virttif es. All nine are represented in a window in St. Neot's Church, Cornwall (see Hedgeland's prints), and doubtless it was these nine orders which were painted on the Romsey altar-piece. To this order of mar.shalling the heavenly host, derived by early Christian writers from the Bible and the traditions of the Jews, Milton has fre quently aUuded. He makes both the Saviour of mankind and Satan address them in the fifth book of Paradise Lost, — "Thrones, Dominations, Priueedoms, Virtues, Powers." And in the tenth is the following passage : " •^—^—-^^ him Thrones and Powers, Princedoms and Dominations ministrant. Accompanied to Heaven gate." XXVI.] CHURCH OF ST. EUSTACE. 119 worn by one of the figures fixes the age of the paint ing at about the time of Henry VI. I believe that the Avhole of these figures must have adorned com partments of the rood-loft in the parish church, which Avas doubtless erected over the opening from the church into the chancel, supporting the figure of our blessed Sariour on the cross, and of his mother and John, the disciple Avhora he loved, standing by. The mysterious meaning of this arrangement was as follows : The body of the church typified the church militant on earth, the chancel the church triumphant in heaven ; and all Avho would attain to a place in the latter must pass under the rood ; that is, take up the cross, and then follow their great Captain through trials and afflictions. A veil or curtain was draAvm over the rood and the figures at tached to it, when the services of the church in Avhich they were exhibited Avere completed. This explains the charge in the preceding account, " of a little cord for the vail."* The next parochial document appertaining to the church of St. Eustace, which 1 shall here notice, is headed as follows. " The account of Thomas Holes and John CoUyn, wardens of the churche of Tavis tock ffrom the thfrde of Maye in the yere of om- Lorde Godd one thousande ffyve hundred flower schore and eight, untU the third day of Maye in the yere of our Lorde Godd one thousande ffyve hun dred ffower score and nyne, that is to weete for one whole yere " — from which I extract the fol- loAring items : * Sold a rod of iron which the curtain run upon before the rood A. D. 1549—3 Edward VI. See Fuller's History of Waltham Abbey. 120 CHURCH OF ST. EUSTACE. [lET. " Receipts for the buryaUe and belle."* "Imprimis, the same accomptants doe charge themselves with the receipt of iv*. ffor the greate bell, upon the deathe of Margarett the daughter of Roger Dollyn." " Item — Receaved upon the deathe of Agnes Drake, for all the bells and her grave, viis. iv*. " Receaved of the p'shers (parishioners) of Tavj's- tock toAvardes a rate made for the setting fforth of souldyers for the guardynge of the Queen's ma'tie's p'son, and toAvardes the mayntenaunce of the churche this yere, as appeareth by a book of p'ticulars thereof, xxxii. XS. iv*." A large portion of this charge Avas doubtless for the musters of 1588, the year ofthe Armada. "Item. Gave Mr. Bickell, Mr. Battishill, Mr. Knightes, and other preachers Avho preached at s'vall tiraes in this p'ishe churche this yere (1588) ivs. A'iii*. ¦ — Item, paide for Avyne and bread this yere for the comunyon table, lixs iii*. — Item, paide John Drake the schole master, for teachinge in the graraer scholc this yere, xii li. — Itera, paide to Nicholas Watts for wages for teachinge of the little children this yere, iiij li.^ — Item, paide at the muster in August last past, xls. — Item, paide by M'' Ffytz his comaundement the xvi of June, 1588, unto a collector having the Queene's greate scale to collect vrith, vi* — Item, paide for a rope for one of the beUs, xviij*. — Item, paide in August for the expenses of the soldiers at Plympton, viis. — Item, paide to John Burges, for his paynes in going Avith the Thrum (the toAvn drum) * This shows that the expressions used by Shakspeare in his Ham let, " the bringing home of bell and burial," were in the current form . of his day, — Vide Hamlet, Act V,, Scene 1st, XXVI.] CHURCH REGISTERS. 12l vi*. — Item, paid the 6th of August and the 8th of August last past, to M'' Ffytz of the money es col lected at the last rate xrii li — Item, paide the 18 August last, to Richard Drake, tovvardes the charge of the tynners, vi li. — Item, paide James the cutler for makynge cleane strappyne and other trymmynge for the corselett and other armour of the parishe, and for a new dagger, vis. — Item, paide for a new girdell, xA'i*. — Item, paide for a booke of articles at the firste visitac'on and for ffees then xxii* — Item, for writing the presentments * at the risitac'on and lyninge in thereof xii* — Itera, paide for the expenses of the wardens, sydemen, clarkes, and others of the p'ishe at dynuer that day, vis. vi* — Item, paide Thomas Watts for amendinge of the Bible and the Booke of Co'mon Prayer, beinge tornen in dyvers places, iis. ii* — Item, paide for the expenses of the constable, M'' Mohan, and of John CoUyn, one of the Avardens, and of Ste phen Hamblyn and of the Constable's raan at Plyrap- ton, beinge then at the assessinge of the subsidis, the xth of Sept'' 1588, iiis. i* — Item, paide to one that collected Avith the broade seale, the 20th Octo ber last vi*. " Item, paide to three Iryshemen, which hadd a lycence from the Earell (Earl) of Bath, ri*. To a poore man that collected for the hospital of Saynt Leonard's vi*. " Paide the paver for amendinge the pavement by the conduytts and the street by the higher Churche boAve xxvii*. " William Gaye for killing of eight ffoxes this yere viii.s.f *' Of Recusants refusing to attend the common prayer. f The reward for the destruction of a fox was increased about a cen- VOL. II. G 122 CHURCH REGISTERS. [lET. " Item, paide for a chayne and settinge in thereof, for the fastenynge of the dictionarrie in the Schole howse ix*.* " Item, paide Walter Burges for one planke and nayles, amendinge of the Widdow NichoUs and Wal ter Poynter's Avyfe's seate and other seates rii*. Item, paide him for coveringe of six graves in the .churche this yere xriU*. Item, paide hun for wash- inge of the churche clothes, riu*. " Item, for Avi-ytinge this accompt and the accompt of the Alms-house landes, Ai.s. viii*. " Bestowed on Mr. Moore the preacher for his ex- pence, xxU*." From a churchAvarden's book, beginning 1661, 1 extract the following curious entries : " Briefs in our parish as follow — "29th AprU, 1660. CoUected for a company going to New England, taken by the Ostenders, 6s. 6*." " September 16th, 1666. Collected towardes the reliefe of the present poore distressed people of the towne and University of Cambridge." "October llth, 1666. CoUected toAvardes the tury after this time, more than threefold, as appears from the follow ing entry : "May I Sth, 1673. This day it was agreed by the masters and inhabitants ofthe towne and parish of Tavystoke, that whosoever shall kill any ffox within the said parish, shall receive for his or their paynes in so doing, the sum of three shillings and four pence." Churchwarden's Book, 1660 to 1740. * This is an amusing charge, and shows the scarcity of lexico graphic tomes in that day. The readerJwiU remember to have seen, ,in many parish churches, the black letter Acts and Monuments ofthe Martyrs, similarly attached, pro bono publico," " to a chayne." Eras mus's 'Paraphrase on the Gospels' remains at the present time thus secured in Tavistock Church, the original cost of which, according to au item in another account, was fifteen shilUngs. XXVI.J CHURCH REGISTERS. 123 •reliefe ofthe poore inhabitants of London, who have lately suffered by the lamentable fire 111. 5s. 9^\" " Feb^y. 21st, 1668. CoUected the day above^ writ ten of the toAvne and parishe of Tavystocke towardes the reUefe and redemption of severall persons now slaves to the Turkes in Algiers and Sallay and Other places 1?. 2s. li*." " 1670, 21st, 22d, 23d, 24th November. Collected towardes the redemption of the present captives in Turkey, in the towne and parishe of Tavy stoke." The list consists of upwards of seven hundred contributors. Araount of contribution 16L Os. 9^*.* " 12th July, 1674. CoUected then the surame of 11. 3s. 4i*. for the fire of St. Martins in the fields, in the County of Middlesex." "9th May, 1675. CoUected then for John Fors- lett of Thilbroke, in the County of CornwaU, a poor captive in Ffez under the Turkes, 11, 10s, 1|*." " 24th AprU, 1675. For the fire at Redburne, in the County of Hereford, 6s. 6*." "March 19th, 1675. To a petition for John LaAves, a captive in Tituan, 9s. 3*." " 13th September, 1677. For the fire at St. Sa viours and St. Thoraas, in the County of Surrey, , 27s. 9*." " 27th October. For James Cole of Totness, a captive in Argier, 17s. 7^*." * At the head of this list is the Honourable Lady Marie Howard, ten shillings. She was the Lady Howard to this day so much the theme of tradition, and of whom so many wild stories are told. Some notice of her life will hereafter be given in these letters. George Howard, Esq. gave six shillings, and eight servants, nine shillings. g2 124 CHURCH REGISTERS. [lET. " 1680, August. Another general collection for redemption of the present captives in Turkey^ amounting to 6?. 18s. 5*." "1681, November. Another, towardes the pre sent subsistence and reUefe of the distressed Pro testants of Ffrance 61, 12s. SJ*." "27th September, 1683. Paide and layd out to one M". Mary Danevaux foAvre shiUings for her charges in going to her fi-iendes having a greate losse among nine famraUyes in the towne of Mumby, in the County of Lincoln, having seen her petition under the hands and seales of the Justices of Peace of that County, Somerset, and Devon, to testifie it. The summe is 1400/., she lost by a breache of the tyde- storrae that riolently destroyed heare howeses and goodes, and her husbande was lost in savinge those goodes." The " Captives in Turkey," who appear to have been very numerous, Avere prisoners to the rovers of Barbary, Avhose piratical depredations on the seas, in the reign of Charles II., were repressed with considerable difficulty by the outfit of several naval armaments against them. The register of marriages, births, baptisms and deaths is not extant at Taristock earlier than the year 1614; but the Rev. Mr. Carpenter, of South Sydenham Damerell, in that neighbourhood, showed me the register of his church, beginning a.d. 1539. I apprehend this is as early a register as any extant; for in the year 1538, says Stow, "in the moneth of September, Thoraas Crorawell, Lord Privy Seale, Vicegerent to the King's Highness, sent forth inti mations to all bishops and curates through the XXVI.j TAVISTOCK CHURCH. 125 realme, charging them to see that in everie Parish Churche, the Bible of the largest Aolume printed in English Avere placed for all men to reade on (secured, no doubt, like the dictionary of the Gram^ mar School at Taristock, and the Martyrology, in many churches, by ' a chayne'), and that a book of Register were also prorided and kept in every Parish Church, wherein shall be Avritten every Avedding, chi-istning, and burying Avithin the same Parish for ever." The various heads of the Sydenham Register are preceded by certain texts of Scripture, as the bap tismal entries by " whosoever Avas not found written in the book of life, Avas cast into the lake of fire, &c. &c." Haring given the above very copious extracts from my brother's notices of our church, and the curious churchwarden's accounts (which he took the pains most minutely to exaraine), I shall subjoin a few observations from Mr. Bray's MS. notes in con tinuation ; and then conclude this letter, which may be considered as one addressed to you more in your character of an antiquary than a poet ; but the sub jects, however recondite, belong so much to the history of this place, they ought not to be oraitted. Of the Church itself, Mr. Bray says, "it con sists of a nave Arith an aisle on each side, and a shorter one, probably additional, to the south, ex tending only to the chancel. This latter aisle, it has been supposed, Avas not carried on to the end of the chancel on account of Judge Glanrille's monument, which is on that side of it. But by the carved wood Avork of the ceUing, it appears to be of a more ancient date than the rest of the church. The pil- 126 TAVISTOCK CHURCH. [lET. lars, also, have capitals enriched with leaves, AvhUst the others are plain. But the tracery of the Arindows is less ornamented than those to the north. How ever, the windows, in their general form, are the same ; consisting of pointed but depressed arches. The tower, which is at the west end (though, strictly speaking, the whole of the buUding varies consi derably from the cardinal points), is supported on four arches. Through two of these was the passage from the abbey precincts into the toAvn, at a spot still called Church Bow, though the arch that gave name to it has recently being taken down. " By reraoving a row of old houses a few years since, the north side of the church has been opened to the street, and adds not a Uttle to its embellish ment. " The churchyard, fi-om the deep funereal shade of a number of large yew trees, was forraerly reraarkably gloomy. In addition to AA'hich it Avas so solitary, that few, after night-fall, could be induced to enter it. But the fears of superstition have long since fled, and a callous indifference to the sacredness of the spot seemed to have succeeded. It is now not only one of the most pubUc thoroughfares in the place by night as AveU as by day ; but even chUtfren, by running over the graves, at play, prevent the ¦Very turf from coA'ering the mould. This wanton riolation of common decency, it is hoped, requires only to be noticed to be suppressed * " But the feelings of those Avho venerate the dead * It is suppressed, for not very long after the above note was ¦written, the churchyard was surrounded by an iron railing and planted -with lime-trees on three of its sides. It is now wholly undisturbed, .and kept with all care from intrusion. XXVI.] EFFECTS OF SUPERSTITION. 127 must have been more greatly shocked when, some years since, the turnpike road was cut through the churchyard, when the coffins and bones of deceased relatives and fi-iends were seen not only exposed to the eye of day, but almost trampled on by the feet of men, and even of horses. " In the tower of the church, which is plain and simple, but lofty, are eight bells. They Avere given by the Duke of Bedford, who left it to the inhabit ants of the place, whether they would have an organ or beUs, and they chose the latter. * Formerly there were only five, Avhich seeras to have been the general nuraber in country towns. When the poor were buried, no bell Avas tolled, even in an age when the tolUng of a bell Avas thought to assist the departure of the soul to heaven, tUl some good old lady, whose name has unfortunately perished, gave one for the express pm-pose; and it Avas ever after caUed the poor-bell. Since they have been increased to eight, that, among the rest, Avas removed and probably melted; but the third beU stiU retains the name, and is appUed to the same purpose. " The singular custom existed here, tUl lately, of the sexton's carrying his spade, not shouldered, but, to use the miUtary phrase, reversed, before the cler gyman at every funeral. But this ceremony of the church miUtant here on earth is now dispensed with. " About forty years ago, a melancholy instance of the effects of superstitious creduUty happened here. Two brothers of the name of Luggar sat up one * The Duke of Bedford has since given a very handsome and fine- toued organ to the church. 128 ANCIENT MONUMENTS. [lET. Midsummer-eve, in the church porch, from an idea (founded on ancient custom) that if at twelve o'clock at night they looked through the key-hole of the door, they would see all those who were to die that year walk into the church from the opposite door- Avay. Their imagination Avas so worked up that they fancied they saw themselves in this funereal pro cession. Certain it is that they both died within a very short space of tirae afterwards ; Avere both buried in the same grave ; and the inhabitants, by having the bells muffled at their funeral, testified a more than ordinary commiseration of their awful fate.* " In the chancel is a monument to the memory of one of the Fitz family ; Avhich, according to Prince, 'is known by tradition more than inscription, no epitaph being found thereon.' But though there is no inscription on the monument itself, on a flat stone in the pavement beneath may be distinguished the foUoAring words among others that are oblite rated: — 'Here lyeth John Fytz of Fytz-ford, Es- quier,' Arith the date of 1539, or 1559 : the third figure of the date being much worn, it cannot clearly be distinguished. "Prince describes the arms of Fitz as 'argent a cross gules guttee de sang.' The arms on the canopy of the present monument do not exactly answer this description ; but they have so near a resemblance that it is probable Prince may have been mistaken. They are a cross engrailled with five gouttes de sang on each quarter. These are on the right of the canopy ; on the left are three rams ; and, in front, =* This melancholy circumstance of the death of the Luggars sug gested the ballad of 'Midsummer Eve,' written by Mr. Bray, and in serted in my novel of ' Fitz of Fitz-ford.' XXVI.] ANCIENT MONUMENTS, 129 the above coats of arms are quartered Arith others : the crest is a centaur. Beneath the canopy, Avhich is supported by four columns, Ues the figure of a knight in armour, Arith a lady by his side; the forraer resting his feet on a lion, the latter on a lamb. At the back of the monument, against the wall, a youth, probably their son, is represented kneeUng, with a book before him on a desk. Some have supposed this j'outhful figure to be the effigy of Sir John Fitz, of whom so remarkable a story is told by Prince, and Avho fell on his own sword'*. _ It raay be such, though Ave have no authority, either Avritten or traditional, to Avarrant the assertion. " On the opposite side of the chancel is the mo nument of Judge GlanviUe. Prince tells us it is ' a very fair monument, so lively representing his. person, in his scarlet robes, that some, at thefr first entrance into one of the doors there, (against which it stands,) have been surprised at the sight, sup posing it had been living.' It is certainly very cha— racteristic ; and I have no doubt, (frora its resem blance to a picture of the Judge, once in my father's possession,) was a striking likeness. Altogether it is one of the finest monuments I have ever seen of the Elizabethan age. His lady, Alicia, is kneeling before him, surrounded by their seven children, all of the sarae dirainutive size, as if they were brought forth at a birth. " Near it (of which, though now effaced, I once, when sorae whitewash peeled off, saw sorae vestiges,) was painted against the waU, as an honorary mo nument. Queen Elizabeth, lying under a canopy, * The story, as related by Prince, will be given in a future letter, g3 130 ANCIENT MONUMENTS. [lET. Arith the foUoAring inscription, which is preserved by Prince — If ever royal vertues crown' d a crown. If ever mildness shined in majesty, If ever honour honoured renown. If ever courage dwelt with courtesy, If ever princess put all princes down For temperance, prowess, prudence, equity, This ! this was she, that in despight of death Lives etill ador'd, admired Elizabeth : Spain's rod, Rome's ruin, Netherland's relief. Heaven's gem, earth's joy, world's wonder, nature's chief. " In the chancel also is a slab on the pavement, dated 1740, to the memory of one of the Manatons, who, subsequently to the GlanviUes, were the pos sessors of Kilworthy. "In the north aisle are the arms of an ancient family, with the foUoAring inscription — Gladius Spiritus est verus clypeus. Sub hoc lateat omnis tuta domus. " Near it is a monument of one of the Fortescues, of Buckland Filleigh, Avhich is principally curious fi-om the blunders of the sculptor, Avho seems to have corrected the text by turning one letter into another and filUng up the superfluous parts by a kind of composition which is now falling off, and renders some of the AVords difficult to be deciphered. On the sarae side is the upper part of an arched tomb, too mutilated to require further notice. In other parts of the church are two or three modern tablets, and an expensive monument lately erected by the late Mr. Carpenter, of Mount Tavy, to the memory of his father, and others of his famUy*. * Another monument to the late Mrs. Carpenter has likewise heen erected by her eldest son, John Carpenter, Esq., the present proprietor of Mount Tavy. XXVI.] SAXON SCHOOL. 131 "The font, of an octagonal form, each side bearing a shield, is supported on a low pillar, with, a base. The upper part is enclosed Avith a kind of Avooden pyramid, surmounted by a pelican, bearing the date 1660. Around it is 'God save King Charles II. !' Arith the names of Alexander Gove, and John Noseworthy, churchAvardens. " On either side ofthe commandments, at the altar, is a border in the form of a pilaster, containing fruit and flowers beautifully carA'ed. The figures of Moses and Aaron, as large as Ufe, are painted in the com partments beyond, Arithin the railing ; they were ex ecuted about the tirae of George I., by a native of this place, named Beaumont, and, considering the state of the arts at that period, and that the artist Avas uneducated as a painter, they are a very respectable perforraance. The altar table is of oak, richly and beautifully carA'ed in the Gothic style. The pulpit is of much later date, but handsome in its decoration. In the church is seen an iron-bound oak chest, most probably as old as the building itself ; in this were found the ancient parish docuraents before noticed, Avhich are so nuraerous and so curious, that I question if any parish in the kingdom can produce a more interesting coUection ofthe like nature." Having here given you Mr. Bray's account of the church, I shall conclude this letter Avith my brother's notice of THE SAXON SCHOOL », " No mention of such an establishment is to bo found among the muniments of the abbey; but Archbishop Parker refers to the existence of a Saxon school at Taristock, and at many other monas- * From " Notices of Tavistock and its Abbey." — Gentleman's Magazine, 1830. 132 SAXON SCHOOL. [lET. teries within the realm, as a matter in the memory of persons of his time. He says that many of the charters and muniments of the early times being Tvi-itten in the Saxon tongue, these foundations Avere prorided in order to communicate the knowledge of it from age to age, lest it should at length become totally obsolete. It is probable that the Saxon school shared the fate of its fostering parent, the monastery, at the time of the Reformation, or that it merged in the grammar school still existing at Taristock, to Avhich no date of foundation can be assigned. Indeed it is not likely that so erainent a monastery as Tavistock had neglected to establish a school for the instruction of the children of the poor in Latin and church music ; the mode in that day of proriding that there should always be a number of persons qualified for the priesthood. The graramar school at Tavistock is at the present tirae very slen derly attended, there seldom being more than one or two scholars on its list. The schoolmaster in structs thera in Latin and Greek, and the steward of the Duke of Bedford sends as many scholars (in the name of the Duke) as he chooses ; each boy paying tAvo guineas entrance money, and one guinea annually to the master. Some particulars of the master's stipend in the time of Elizabeth AA'iU be found in a subsequent document. "THE PRINTING PRESS. " The noble art of printing (continues my brother) was communicated to our land about the year 1471, and being first practised in Westminster Abbey, the example Avas soon foUoAvcd by St. Augustine's, Canterbury, St. Alban's, and ' other monasteries of England,' says Stow. Among Avhich number was XXVI.] THE PRINTING PRESS. 133 the Abbey of Tavistock. Certain it is, that a translation of 'Boetius de Consolatione PhUoso- phiae,' undertaken at the instance of one Elizabeth Berkeley, and completed by John Walton, Canon of Osney, in 1410, was printed at Tavistock, in 1524 *, under the editorship of Dan Thomas Rychard, one of the monks, Avho, by his prefix of Dan or Dominus to his name, Avas perhaps a graduate of the university, or a scholar of some note. It might, hoAvever, be a distinction added on account of the office which he bore in the monastery ; for 1 take hira to be the sarae person AA'ho signs his narae to the surrender, ' Ry- cardus custos.' The conclusion of this book (so rare that Hearne had only seen tAVO imperfect copies of it) has the following note : — " ' Here endeth the boke of comfort called in Latyn Boecius de Consolatione Phi'e, eraprinted in the exempt monastery of Tavestock in Denshyre, by me Dan Thomas Richard Monke of the sayd mo nastery. To the instant desyer of the ryght Avor- shypful esquyer Mayster Robert Langdon. Anno d. M.D. XXV. Deo Gracias j.' "Robert Langdon, LL.D., was nepheAv to Bishop Langdon, a great patron of Uterature, and I suppose had imbibed something of his uncle's spirit." I have the honour to remain. My dear Sir, Very respectfully and faithfully yours, Anna E. Bray. * The charter of the Tinners of Devon, small quarto, was also" printed at Tavistock Abbey, 1534; and the Long Grammar, con taining only sixteen pages, edited by Richards. f " A copy of this book was purchased by Dr. Askew, at Mr. West's sale, for three pounds. At Dr. Askew's sale, it was bought by Mr. Mason, for five pounds : it would, if sold now, produce four times as much," — Beloe's ' Anecdotes of Literature.' 134 [let. LETTER XXVII. TO ROBERT SOUTHEY, ESQ. Contents. — A garden — The love of it common with amiable persons — Nature contemplated generally, a subject of constant benefit and delight — Its variety and interest — By whom sought — Examples cited in ancient and raodern times — A passage from St. Chi-ysos- tom — Cottage gardens ; their beauty in Devon — The general cha racter of a Devonshire cottage — Spenser's lines on the Butterfly — Great men who have been noted for their love of nature, and rural pleasures and occupations — ^The Vicarage garden described — The still house — Abbey walls; its boundary — The orchard — St. John's — Romanized.British sepulchral stones — Two of them in the Vicar age garden^ — Blackbird's nest — Birds — A remarkable cat; a feat of hers related — The storm — Thrush — Swallows — Inscriptions — Betsey Grimhal's Tower — Cleopatra's Needle — Little Bridge — Second di vision of the garden — The Long Walk — A wood dove that built its nest in the old tower — Lines upon it — A Laurestina planted by the mother of the writer ; a sacred memorial — Crowndale ; birth-place of Drake ; way to it — The old parish clerk ; his favourite walk — Remarkable character of this worthy person — A sketch of him at tempted — His good sense — His early life and exemplary conduct — His observations on various subjects, moral and religious — The valley of Crowndale, and the walk to it described — The house in whieh Drake was born taken down — Proposed inscription to Drake — Crowndale ; origin of its name — ^Witchcraft — Ancient game of Kales — Tradition respecting Sir Francis Drake and the fire-ships — Another legend concerning him — Shooting the gulf — Tradition of his wife about being married during his absence — Tale of Sir Francis and the ship-boy — Another legend — Extract from a letter of Mr. Southey sent to the writer in reply to the above. Vicarage, Tavistock, September 7, 1832. My dear Sir, I have often observed in life that the most happy and contented minds, the most amiable and XXVII.] creation contemplated. 135 gentle dispositions, have been found in persons who; take pecuUar deUght in a garden, or in contem plating, on a larger scale, the boundless beauties and. Avon der s of creation. It is a theme, though often touched upon, never to be exhausted, because the subject has God for its origin and its end. Nay, God himself deUghts in his own Avorks, for he saw that " they were good." The prophets of old con*" tinually allude to them ; and amongst the heariest curses of the lamentable faU of Moab was, " that the waters should be bitter, the grass faU, and that there should be no green thing." And Job enumerates the wonders of God's works from the highest to the least; from that power which "hangeth the earth upon nothing," and " openeth out the north on the empty place," which " maketh a way for the Ught ning of the thunder," to the mercy which sends the " small drops of rain, that cause the bud of the ten der herb to shoot." And holy Darid, in the 148th Psalm, enumerates aU "planets, the greater and lesser light ; the fire, the haU, the snow and vapour, hills and mountains and fruitful trees, and all ce dars," as giring praise to God. To look, therefore, on the creation Arith an eye of interest and feeUng must be ever acceptable to the Creator. To trace out the several properties of his AVorks, and to study Avith humUity and dUigence thefr laAvs, their uses and operations, is an employment worthy the iramortal mind of man ; since it is one of those studies which we may reasonably hope AriU surrive and become enlarged beyond the grave, when we shall have shaken off this " mortal coil :" when we shall no longer see through a " glass darkly," what wonders of creation, spiritual as well 136 RELIGIOUS REFLECTIONS. [lET. as material, may unfold themselves to our vieAV ! But if we pass through this world, as the slumberer does through the night, unconscious of Avhat lies around us, how can we be assured that those exceUent things Arill delight us in futurity, of which we had no perception in our preparatory state ? These, it must be admitted, are speculative notions, but they may be true ; and they are certainly harmless— we may hope, therefore, they may be indulged. The wisdom of Providence is seldom, in any one thing, confined in its operations to the mere term of our mortal career ; and in placing us in a world so diversified, so beautiful in its forms as well as useful in their properties, there is soraething Avhich seems to tell us that Nature does not court our admiration, or invite our inquiry into her most hidden secrets in vain ; and all would be vain if it ended with the grave. There is, indeed, in most things a constant connexion or figure between mortal and immortal. What, for instance, to advert to the most obrious, is that regular succession of day and night, but a lively image of death and the renewal of our being ? What the sun, Avhich of all celestial bodies is to us the most glorious, but an emblem of Him who is the fountain of all light ? And when that great lumi nary " leaves the world to darkness," what but the assured power of God (whose laws never A'ary nor know the shadoAV of change) can certify it AriU ever rise on us again? As glorious as is our hope in Christ, so certain will be its fulfilment. StiU fur ther, to draAv the parallel, it may be added that it is by the light of the sun Ave discover all the endless variety of substances, and of their colours that robe the earth as with a mantle of beauty, which XXVII.] RELIGIOUS REFLECTIONS. 137 God changes as the seasons vary in their order and their kind. The Ught he has given us by reve lation is, in the moral, Uke this luminary in the physical world — it shows us all the beauty of the divine law, and where the everlasting fountains may be sought which refresh the soul, even should it "be weary unto death." The contemplation of nature continually suggests thoughts like these ; and never, I should hope, can do other than lead the mind to a conviction of the power and the excellence of the Almighty, without which, knowledge is useless, and inquiry vain : sincei it produces no fruit but that Avhich, as the gourd of Jonah, Arithers in a day. How instructive, for ex ample, is it in aU seasons to consider the progress of the vegetable and the animal Avorld ! Winter, that season of inactirity and barrenness to the eye, Ave find teeming Arith the hidden operations of na ture; for then the snows, which cover the face of the earth with thefr chiUing aspect, are, in fact, like that Avhich clothes the flocks, a mantle affording' a covering to the plants as they nestle beneath it : and the bare and leafless tree abounds Arith ritaUty. And how adrafrable is that Arisdom which guards its works against the dangerous transition of passing from one extreme in the seasons to the other ! The fluctuating spring, Avhich not too suddenly makes us forget the Arinter, yet prepares the earth by rnUder Avarmth for the sumraer's ardent suns ; and the fall of the year, when the harvest is complete, that leads us, like the decline of Ufe, by gentle steps to the winter, and enables us to raeet its attendant seve rities of storms and biting frosts, are all instances ofthe merciful order and government of Providence. 138 COTTAGE GARDENS. [lET. There is a beautiful passage in St. Chrysostom which is so in harmony with this subject, that I cannot forbear lo quote it, in the very words in which I heard it, as introduced in a discourse fi-om the pulpit : " As the water, which descends from Heaven nourishes and ririfies, and though it be of one kind, operates in various ways ; is snow-white in the lUy, but sable in the narcissus, blushes in the rose, is purple in the violet, is sweet in the fig, but bitter in the wormAvood : so also the Divine Spirit, which descends from Heaven, nourishes and ririfies the soul, and though of one kind, exerts its power and efficacy in various ways." I have ventured to give these remarks as intro ductory to a very favourite subject of mine — the many benefits that result to us from cultivating a taste not only for nature at large, but for a garden. A taste for gardening is more marked in the Eng Ush perhaps, than in any other nation. We see it not merely in the educated and higher classes, but ¦vrith the poorest of the peasantry. How many a cottage, whose want even of the most ordinary con veniences of Ufe bespeaks the needy condition of its inmate, possesses a character of cheerfulness and comfort by the woodbine that tArines round the ruinous porch, the rose-bush that creeps in upon the lattice, or the stately hoUyhock and the gorgeous sun-floAver that deck the sUp of ground before his door — ^flowers which, like noble persons in their progress through the world, plant them wherever it may be, near the palace or the cottage, lose no thing of the dignity inherent in their nature, and rather give it to their station than derive it thence. I knoAV not any county in England where this XXVII.] DEVONSHIRE COTTAGES. 139 taste for a garden with the peasantry is more uni versal than in the west. A Devonshire cottage, if not too modern, is the sweetest object that the poet, the artist, or the lover of the romantic could desfre to see. The walls, generally of stone, are grey, and if not whitewashed, (which they too often are,) abound Arith lichen, stone-crop, or moss. Many of these dweUings are ancient, principaUy of the Tudor age, Arith the square-headed mulUoned and labelled \rindows. The roof is always of thatch, and no cottage but has its ivy, its jessamine, or its rose mantling its sides and creeping on its top. A bfrd- cage at the door is often the delight of the children ; and the little garden, besides its complement of hol lyhocks, &c., has a bed or two of flowers before the house of the most brUUant colours. A bee-hive, and the elder, that most useful of aU domestic trees, are seen near the entrance ; and more than once have I stopped to observe the eagerness and the deUght Avith which the chUdren amuse themselves in chasing a butterfly from flower to flower. A butterfly is the favourite of infancy, and affords a subject for re flection even to age. The change it undergoes would puzzle a phUosopher did he attempt to explain the laws of its ephemeral being ; and wherefore a supine and ugly grub, that Ues in darkness, should change into a creature Arith ribrating Arings, ever restless, ever sporting in Ught and sun, and whose brief existence seems to reaUze the notions of Epi curus, in being devoted to pleasure. Who has ever described a butterfly like our Spenser in those Unes of matchless beauty? The velvet nap which on his wings doth lie, The silken downe with which his baeke is dight. 140 GREAT MEN, ETC. [lET. His broad outstretched homes, his hayrie thies. His glorious colours and his glistering eies. Those Avho deUght in sacred studies can never forget that a garden was the first possession be stowed on man whilst he was in a state of innocence. There, by the forfeiture of his obedience, he became subject to mortaUty. And in a garden, too, stood the sepulchre, Avhence came his assurance, by the resurrection of our Lord, of his immortaUty. Even the heathen world of antiquity affords us examples of how many great and wise men delighted in the culture of a particular spot of earth. The admirable Numa left Avith reluctance his garden and his retfre ment at Cures, (Avhere, says Plutarch, he gave his hours to the Avorship of the gods, to his friends, and dressing the ground, and feeding cattle,) to become the king of Rome. Cincinnatus Avas taken from the plough to be a Dictator. " And the sublime imagi nation of Plato," says an eloquent modern Avriter ¦*, " still required him to seek God amidst the pleasant haunts of a garden." It is recorded of Socrates, that he delighted in the beauties of the country, where, in a garden, he enjoyed sitting under the plane-tree, on the margin of a pure stream, to breathe the evening air. In ages of a more recent date, we have numerous examples of the best men who found in a garden a relaxation from the toils, and a solace for the cares of life. Rene, the afflicted and noble Count of Anjou, felt a melancholy jjleasure in shoAving to his friends the flowers he had reared with his ovvn hands. Fenelon, in such a spot, Avould pursue his Avalks of contemplation "in peace and silence before God." In our oavu country, hoAV many • Kenelm Digby, author of the " Broad Stone of Honour." ¦XXVIE.] ADMIRERS OF NATURE. 141 good men have evinced the same taste ! How many great poets and Avriters have, like the bees around them, culled from the garden the choicest sweets, and stored them, as the floAvers of song ! The poem by Mason, on such a subject, can never be forgotten ; for he Avas one Of those the favour'd few, whom Heav'ii has lent The power to seize, select, and reunite Her loveliest features ; and of these to form One archetype complete of sovereign grace *. Cowley addressed a poem to Evelyn on the de Ught he took in his garden ; and Evelyn was the first Englishman Avho brought its culture into a regular art ; and left his Avork on Forest Trees as an invaluable legacy to posterity. Lord Bacon's fond ness for horticulture is Avell knovra ; and Shenstone's garden at the Leasowes Avas as celebrated as himself Avho formed it. And Avhat a picture of beauty has Milton given in his description Of Eden, where delicious Paradise, Now nearer, crowns with her inelosure green, As with a rural mound, the champaign head Of a steep wilderness ; whose hairy sides With thicket overgrown, grotesque and wild, Access denied : and overhead upgrew Insuperable height of loftiest shade. Cedar, and pine, and fir, and branching palm, A sylvan scene ! and as the ranks ascend Shade above shade, a woody theatre Of stateliest view. To speak of a less lofty theme than that of Mil ton's Eden ; a garden, such as Ave generally find in the country, is a world in miniature, and one that Ave may call our own. Its extent is not too large to prevent our becoming acquainted with every capa- * Mason's Garden. Book the First. 142 VICARAGE GARDEN, [lET. biUty of our domain. We may here form our colo nies of plants and flowers, and see them rise and grow and thrive, Uke so many subjects obedient to our wUl ; we may cherish or neglect them, and as we do the one or the other they wUl flourish or decUne, Avhilst they are Uable to no injuries but such as arise from causes beyond our control — the inclemency of the seasons, the vrinds, the blight, and the storm. It is not ahvays necessary, though doubtless it en hances the pleasure, to be reaUy a good gardener, in order to enjoy a garden. This I can ti-uly say ; for though I am not skiUed in the horticultural art, yet I am not insensible to its value, and deUght in our OAvn spot of ground. At aU seasons I find it replete with entertainment and variety; and truly is it a pretty picturesque appendage to the ricarage house, which stands in the raidst ; and ray pleasure is en hanced by knoAring that the garden Avas, in its pre sent state, entirely planned, laid out, and planted by Mr. Bray, in a way to show to most advantage such ruins ofthe abbey as it contains, and to make apiece of ground of moderate size appear, by an ingenious exercise of art, a great deal larger than it is. Another pecuUarity is attached to it — it is not merely a summer-garden ; since by planting a num ber of evergreens near the house, we have aU the year round the satisfaction of looking upon verdure. These evergreens consist principaUy of laurels, bays, and hoUies — the common and variegated — Avhich, from the humidity and mUdness of the climate, and the luxuriant way in which aU vegetation grows in this neighbourhood, are now become not merely fine slirubs, but large and spreading trees. We have, also, the beautiful Portugal laurel, the cypress, the XXVII.] VICARAGE GARDEN. 143 juniper, and a most noble cedar of Lebanon ; besides the Spanish chestnut, the comraon English horse chestnut, the sycamore, and the finest acacias. The Spanish chestnut produces fine fruit, Avhich we store for Christmas. At a particular tirae, Avhen the tree is in blossom, the smell it emits is most dis agreeable, something Uke that of rotten Avood. If such is the case in Spain, where there are Avhole forests of these chestnuts, they must, I should think, be very unwholesome to aU Avho Uve near, or travel thi-ough them. Of ivy we have, perhaps, a Uttle too much. Ours is the giant ivy, as it is caUed; it grows so fast that, Avithout continual cutting and clearing, it in trudes more than it ought to do upon the architec tural remains of the abbey, particularly the still- house, and Betsy Grimbal's tower, the two most distinguished ruins in our Uttle domain ; yet not so fine in themselves as the noble portion of the abbey waUs, with their battlemented parapet that once formed the boundary of the abbot's, and noAV of the ¦ricar's private gardens. At no season of the year are these gardens other than beautiful. In the winter, when, now and then, they are covered Arith snow, the majestic cedar of Lebanon (which I can see from the Arindows Avhere I am writing this letter) assumes the most elegant appearance : it looks light and feathery, and its branches wave, if there is the least wind, like a panache of white plumes on the helmet of a chival rous knight equipped for the tourney. And the old towers with thefr heads buried in snow, whUst the lower parts, sheltered by the incurabent ivy, stiU show their dusky sides, remind one of the old monks 144 ST. John's. [let. Avith a white cowl upon their heads. But I ought to take you more regularly through our garden ; a A'ery fit place for a poet, and especially for one Avho has sung of other lands as Avell as of our oavu ; for here the laurels of Portugal and of England will Uterally Avave above his broAV. The Athenians had a notion that the Muses would be gratified by haring a temple dedicated to them on the banks of the river Ilissus ; and so, according to the idea of Digby, the founders of the abbeys seemed to think that the saints to Avhom they dedicated them would be delighted by having all such edifices stationed on the banks of a river. Buckland, as AveU as Tavistock Abbey, stood amidst emboAvering Avoods on the raargin of the beautiful Tavy ; and though, in our immediate neighbourhood, the antique oakS, that in all probability saw the rise and progress of these monastic buildings, have long been swept aAvay; yet Ave are not Arithout wooded hills. For example, that called St. John's, Avhere the hermitage once stood, is situated opposite to our garden on the other side the river. It is a romantic spot, Avhcre stands a rock, that stiU rears his head, like the tower of an old fortress, and looks down upon the Tavy, and upon the abbey's mouldering AvaUs, with the same solemn front Avith Avhich it beheld them Avlien they Avere stormed by the Danes, or desecrated by the Reformationists. A Avilderness of briars and brambles and old trees surround it ; but there is a winding path that runs past its base and affords a very pleasing A'icAV of the town, the abbey bridge, &c., AA'ith the advantages derived frora a rugged and picturesque foreground. We look directly upon St. Jolm's ; and the French windoAVs of my favourite XXVJI.] BLACKBIRDS. 145 room, Avhere I love to sit and read and Avrite, open into our garden. A laAvn faces them, bordered Avith evergreens, of such luxuriant growth, that I call them my grove, and there is no extravagance in the expression. To the west, and not more than seven or eight feet distant from one of the AvindoAvs, stands, on the sldrts of the lawn, one of those British, Romanized sepulchral stones, which Mr. Bray discovered and preserved; a particular account of Avhich has been given by himself. This stone is of granite, and stands upright about eight feet above the earth. Against the back part of it some ivy Avas planted, Avhich is noAV so thick and spreading, that it has assumed at the top an appearance someAvhat re sembling a judge's Avig; this, Avhich somoAvhat over shadows the inscription, Avould have been cleared away, but for the circumstance I ara about to relate. During the spring ofthe present year, I observed that between the hours of four and five in the after noon, Arith the most exact regularity, as if ruled by a clock, seA'eral fine blackbirds assembled together on our lawn, amusing themselves Avith singing, chirping, and picking up worms. We took especial care not to disturb them, and at last they gi-oAV so bold, that they would sometimes hop and flutter even upon the gravel walk that runs close to the ArindoAvs. At length AA'e observed that a pair of them constantly returned to the judge's wig, Avhere we soon found they had formed a nest in the ivy; and Avere bring ing up a little family of vocalists to complete the nuraerous band of that description Avhich have li terally conA'erted our garden into an aviary. I need not add we get no fruit. The blackbird is one of A'OL. II. h 146 A FAVOURITE CAT. [LET. the shyest in existence; and I am assured by the Rev. Mr. Johnes (the White of our neighbour hood), that a nest built by one of the race Avithin a few feet of a parlour vrindow, is a remarkable fact in natural history : here, therefore, I record it. We are, indeed, exceedingly musical ; for the old walls, the ivy, the number of trees, and not aUoAring them to be disturbed, is altogether so agreeable and inriting to the feathered tribes, that we have them of all descriptions, and nearly all the year round. Our thrushes are numerous ; and they Arill sit and sing upon the trees, sometimes in answer to each other, in the most delightful manner. We have also goldfinches, and buUfinches and green and all other finches that ever bore the narae ; and black- bobs, linnets, and martins, and the poor Uttle Avren *, and robin red-breasts out of number ; and such a colony of sparrows have settled themselves in the ivy, that our man John says it grieves his heart to see how they eat up the peas after all his trouble of sowing and sticking. Guns are never alloAved in our territory; and scarecrows are of no use Arith bfrds so gently treated. But one enemy they have in spite of all our endeavours to guard them ; and that enemy is a certain favourite cat ; one of the smallest, yet fiercest, and most beautiful of her kind ; a very tigress in her nature. Our proximity to the Taristock canal, Avhich un fortunately runs through our garden (for it is no ornament, being too much like a ditch), has brought * " The golden-crested -wren mentioned by Polwhele is probably the humming bird noticed by Martin, in the environs of Tavistock, who describes it as hanging its nest by a thread to the extreme bough of a tree." — Monthly Review, XXVII. J A FAVOURITE CAT. 147 upon us a number of rats; and this cat has been knoAvn to combat and slaughter many nearly as large as herself. She is, indeed, invaluable on account of the able manner in Avhich she carries on the war against these vermin. But she seems determined to leave no rictory within her reach unaccomplished; for she hunts birds almost as successfully as she does rats and mice ; I have often met her groAvling Avith exultation, and slowly striding up toAvards the house Arith some luckless robin or finch in her mouth. Her mode of warfare, which I one day discovered by chance, showed great deliberation and fierceness. I observed her sitting under the branches, Avhich groAv near the ground, of the. cedar of Lebanon; her body half hidden in the long grass, her fore feet draAvn up, her head erect, and truly in the attitude of " cat-Uke watch." I saw at once that her eye was fixed on a pretty little greenfinch that Avas hopping on some bushes by the side of the canal. Not thinking she would commit murder in my sight; and, indeed, not fancying the bird was in any im mediate danger, I amused myself Arith seeing what manoeuvre she would practise next; when, to my extreme astonishment, the bird aUghting but for an instant on the grass, she made one spring, and Arith so true an aim that the poor thing was dead before I could possibly interfere to save it : the feat was announced by a low growl ; and trifling as this cir cumstance was, I could not help thinking it Avas a miniature representation of the spring, the fierce ness and the power of the tiger. I took the bird from her, and scolded and beat her ; but she seeraed not to heed it ; for she only turned away, drew up her back like an arch, raised and curled her tail, and h2 148 THE STORM-THRUSH. [lET. set off after another bird that caught her eye, Arithout the delay of a moment. We constantly hear in our garden that little watchman of the tempest, the stoi-m-thrush : for Avhenever A-iolent wind and rain come together, one or more of these avUI perch on the A'ery topmost branches of an elm, the loftiest tree we have, and there Avill sit and pipe, rocking in the gale ; and its note vriU sometimes seem to grow more loud and shriU as the Arinds blow stronger and higher. SAval- lows in abundance pay us a passing A^isit as they make their rapid evolutions in pursuit of the insect tribe ; and after haring been on the Aving fi-om sun rise to sun-doAvn, Ave sometimes see them of an even ing, hanging Uke bees on the pendant branches of the shrubs above the canal. In going doAvn the lawn, the stUl-house, an old toAver where the monks distiUed thefr medicines and sweet Avaters *, becomes the point of attraction ; on returning, the A'icarage and the shrubbery are seen in the foreground, backed by the tower ofthe church. And from no part of the grounds do we Aiew any thing belonging- to the town, excepting a few of the old buUdings that keep up the character of antiquity afforded by the massive AvaUs. I must not pass Arithout notice another object, although a modem one, of sorae cm-iosity — ^it is the verandah before the draAring-room Arindows, which Mr. Bray erected after a design of his own. It now needs repafr, as it was injured by the A-iolent storms of a AA'inter or two ago; but in this verandah, as weU as in the external porch of the house, he has proved that the zigzag ornament so often seen in our chm-ches of * The Benedictine monasteries had always a school for medicine. XXVII,] GARDEN INSCRIPTIONS, 149 Saxon date Avas suggested by wood work. The frieze is formed in that fashion by small pieces of fir nailed together ; and the rich brown colour of the bark of the wood, as avcU as the pattern, produces a beautiful effect. The festoons, Avhich hang across the space left open in the verandah before the windows are composed of pine cones pierced and strung together upon Avire, the same as those so much admired Avhich surround the cottage near the sea in the delightful grounds of Mount Edgcumbe. The trellis Avork is enriched by the honey-suckle, the clematis, the pyrus japonica, and a spreading hy- drangia, whose flowers are of the noblest growth. In no part of England arc they, I believe, seen so large and beautiful as in Devonshire. To the Avest of the house there is a Avalking shed, erected by Mr. Bray, and very similar to the ve randah* ; it is thatched ; a boundary Avail supports the roof; trees grow in front of it, and the ivy and shrubs render it a cool retreat from the summer's heat or shower. The following inscriptions were Avrittcn by Mr. Bray for several parts of the garden. The second he cut himself on a slab of Devonshire slate, and placed it on the wall under the Avalking shed. The third, similarly cut, is on part of the abbey walls, where the noblest laurels and hollies form a natural arcade. INSCUIPTION von A SEAT IN THE OAKUEN, SUGGESTED BY THE NOTE ON Gen. ii. 8, in Mant's dible, The man with heavenly wisdom blest, Seeks in a garden peace and rest, -A.nd there, by worldly evils ci-oss'd, He finds " a Paradise unlost." ' Since writing this letter, in Sept. last, the verandah mentioned was found to be in so dangeioiis a stato from dry rot, thut it was obligi^d to be taken down. 150 GARDEN INSCRIPTIONS. [lET. INSCRIPTION UNDER THE WALKING SU£D. " From storms a shelter, aud frora heat a shade," Beneath this shed, ray feeble hands have made, May I with God, like holy Enoch walk. As friend to friend, like Moses, hear him talk ! And he, who's the true shadow from the heat, And shelter from the storm, shall guide ray feet. Not only here where first I drpw my breath, But " wheresoe'er I go, through life or death." INSCRIPTION ON THE ABBEY WALL, FRONTING THE WEST. Sacred to Zimmerman and Solitude, Nor worldly cares, nor eastern winds, so rude. Should hither, could weak man command, intrude. To Livingus, Abbot of Tavistock*. Thou taught'st thy king to chide his flatt'ring slaves. By bidding cease to flow the heedless waves. To the Same f , When fied thy spirit from this sacred pile, Presageful thunders shook Britannia's isle. To Elfrida +. Here to thy heart were peace and virtue known; Not wheu thy beauty graced fond Edgar's throne. To Sir Francis Drake ^. By thee, hold chief! around th' astonish'd world, Britannia's sovereign flag was first unfurl'd. * Livingus lived in the reigu of Canute, and was rauch beloved by that monarch. I " Just as he was about to expire — Horrisonus crepitus per totara Angliam auditus, ut ruina et finis totius putaretur orbis." See ' Worthies of Devon.' J Elfrida caused her son-in-law, Edward the raartyr, to be mur dered, that her own son Ethelred raight succeed to the crown. § Sir Francis Drake was bom at Crowndale, about a mile from Tavistock. xxvu,] GARDEN IKSCRIPTIONS. 151 To Glanvil*. Here to thine eye, illustrious sage ! Themis unrolled her ample page. To the Family of Fits of Fitz-ford \, Ye patriot race ! Fond favourites of renown ! Yours was the warlike sword, the peaceful gown. To Browne X, Your pasfK^ral lyre the hand of fancy strung. In Ina's combe when Walla's love you sung. INSCRIPTION FOU THE ABBEl' WALL, NEAR THE TAVY. This wall, the abbey's sacred bound, between, Tavy, though not unheard, yet, ah ! unseen, Flows on, regardless of ray votive lays. Or thine, O Browne ! the boast of happier days. Y'et still I'll string the lyre, still preach the word. Or all unheeded, or but idly heard ; Content my labours but to one be known ; He, who's Hi'mself the great reward alone. Haring before described Betsey Grimbal's toAver, I have here only to mention that it is situated near the entrance to our house, in the quarter towards the toAvn; but we must stiU continue our Avalk to the still-house of the monks. In doing so we raust pass the Arinding path which threads the lawn, at the extremity of which, and forming a very pic turesque and elegant object, stands what I call Cleopatra s Needle. This is nothing more than a * Glanvil was one of the Justices of the Common Pleas. His house, Kilworthy, is situated near Tavistock. •j- As there is no inscription on the raonuraent in the church, it is uncertain to which of this remarkable family it was erected. X Tn his 'Britannia's Pastorals,' he has introduced the love of ¦Tavy for Walla; a poetical name for Wallabrook, which runs iuto it. 152 Cleopatra's needle. [let. stone about ten feet high, somewhat of the obeUsk form, with an inscription Avhich shows it to be a Romanized British memorial of the dead.* This stone Avas lately presented to my husband in the most handsome manner by Sir Ralph Lopez, the present proprietor of the beautiful domain of Maris- toAve, in our neighbourhood. Thus you find avc have two of these rare monuments of antiquity sta tioned in our garden. Not far from the obelisk there is an arbour, Avhich was speedUy constructed. Mr. Bray removed to that spot, from the front of the Abbey-house, Avhich it nearly covered, a very fine tea-tree, as it is called, by planting it, and bringing forAvard the branches Avith the support of a light frame AVork ; so that one and the same day saAv the rise and completion of his arbour. The branches thus bent foi-Avard afterwa,rds struck root, the same at their tops as at the bottom. The birds arc very fond of this boAver, and build their nests in and near it. In the arbour there is placed, by way of seat, the capital of a column that in all probabi lity belonged to the Abbey-church. The ornaments Avhicli decorated the 'front are obliterated; but on one of the sides may still be seen a trefoil emblem of the Trinity, and on the other a cross. By the form of the latter, and the style of the Avhole, I should think this capital is as old as the time of Livingus, Avhen the Abbey Avas rebuilt, after being destroyed by the Danes. 1 ought not to omit stat- * Siu-h memorials aie of the highest antiquity. Josephus (Book the 7th) describes one, as a marble StelC, near the holy city of Jeru- .siilem, that was erected as a memorial of himself by Absalom. In sciipture it is called ' Absalom's place.' The custom of erecting mo numents for eminent persons during their lifetime prevailed also at oue period in the middle ages, as we read in Froissart, XXVII,] the battlements. '^^^-^'^ 0\, 1|3 ing that so highly did the late Mr. Repton, the celebrated landscape gardener, estimate Mr. Bray's taste in the art, that he raore than once consulted hira ; and used good-humouredly to say, that if all trades failed Mr. Bray might succeed him in his profession. Beyond the obelisk is a little bridge, built of stone, that crosses the Taristock canal, on the op posite bank of Avhich arises my favourite tree, so often named, the noble cedar. The bridge leads to the second division of the garden, bounded on the left by a lateral Avall that belonged to the Abbey, and joining the still-house, Avhich also unites with the massive and lengthened boundary walls of the Abbot's grounds toAvards the river. This is a very interesting spot. A walk, shaded Avith trees, (so that it Uterally forms an aA'enue of a sombre charac ter, quite in harmony Avith monastic buildings,) runs about three hundi-ed yards, close under this portion of the Abbey Avails, in a direct Une from the still- house. A door in the first-mentioned lateral Avail opens into Avhat is now our kitchen-garden, and there we can walk under the lofty and battlemented portion ofthe ancient Avails next the river. The ram parts, from which you look through the battlements upon the Tavy beneath, is still entire. From this spot you also command a good riew of some of the remains ofthe monastic edifices that exist in the town. Returning to the second garden, we come out close to the stUl-house. In this toAver there is an upper and an under apartment, now in a very ruinous state; but the former, a foAV years ago, before the decaying roof for want of repair partially fell in, afforded a very snug upper room, that would h3 154 the still-house. [let. have made a good study for Friar Bacon ; and which UkcArise reminds me of Buffon's study in the tower of his garden at Montbard, in Burgundy, where that great naturalist and most eloquent Avriter patiently toiled at those Avorks which are noAV held in honour by aU the nations of Europe. In the little room above npticed there are three Arindows, one trefoUed, the others round headed, that look out on the TaA'y, which runs at the base of the public waUc, foaming over rocks beloAv. The still-house is overgrown Avith ivy, and so much does it hide the architecture ofthe buUdings and the Arindows, that Mr. Bray is about to have it partially cleared aAvay ; and this he has hitherto done once every two or three years. Some time ago a wood-dove took up her abode in the ivy that grows thus luxuriantly about the old toAver. I was fond of seeing the bird fly to and from her nest ; and I believe I may say that I saved its life, by requesting om- neighbour and cousin, Mr. John Bray, to forbear firing at it. But the bird did not know her true friend, for it fled from me as I ap proached the spot that gave her shelter, — a cir cumstance Avhich suggested to me, though a very humble votary of the muses, a fcAV Unes wluch Mr. Bray wishes me to send you in this letter, as he is pleased to say they belong to the histoi-y of our garden ; and as I knoAV you to be one of those in dulgent poets who look with a kindly feeUng on the Uttle productions of others, I wUl, Arithout further apology, here venture to giA'e you my lines : — TO THE WOOD-DOVE. Oh ! fly not away, silly dove, from thy nest ; No footstep is mine to intrude : Return to thine ivy-built covert of rest. And cherish thy soft- feather'd brood. XXVII.] lines to the wood-dove. 155 But here, pretty bird, prithee make thee thy bower. Thou shalt find it a shelter of love ; In this old abbey wall, near yon gray-mantled tower, AA'here the ivy is nodding above. Yes — there, when the wind sighs in sad fitful moans, While Tavy rolls dark through the dell, Fast foaming along o'er the flood-beaten stones. Thou shalt nestle secure in thy cell. Or when at grey eve, or the still summer night. Whilst the clouds in soft livery shine. Oh, then, pretty wood-dove, bend hither thy flight. And the care to protect thee be mine. Here no fowler shall harm thee, uo harsh sounds intrude, Thou shall list to the notes of thy mate ; Thou shalt hear but the chirps of thy young, tender hrood, So blest in their innocent state. Still thou wander'st abroad on thy light, silver'd wings Frora her who would shelter thy nest ; Oh ! turn thee again, ere thine own folly brings A wound to that beautiful breast. Ah ! how oft shun we those, foolish dove, like thy flight. To whose precepts we soonest should bend : For the smiles of the world, for its follies so light. We leave the warm heart of a friend, I have but one spot more to notice in our garden ; and that is one I never can approach without feel ings of the tenderest regret. It is the spot where my beloved mother planted a laurestine, as a memo rial, before she quitted the vicarage to return to her OAvn home ; a journey which, from her great age, I must not hope she can ever undertake again, I often look on that tree, and remember that the hand which planted it had sustained me in infancy, guided my. youth, aiursed me in sickness and in sorrow, and never, throughout life, met mine but AA'ith the most devoted kuidness and affection*, * The beloved raother, here mentioned, Mrs, Anne Kerape, died in March, 1835, 156 FILIAL PIETY, [lET. Well may the love of a chUd to a parent be called filial piety, as distinguishing, as raising it above all other earthly duties or affections ; for surely if there is to be seen in this Avorld an image of God's Avatch- fulness over the creatures he has formed, it is to be found in the tenderness of a dear mother. Her care has something in it that is holy ; her heart and eye are ever Avith her child ; her solicitude is incessant, absence cannot shake it, for she watches, even at a distance, for the happiness and safety of her off spring. Misfortune or distress, that loosen the bonds of Avorldly regard, draAv but the closer those of parental affection ; and the afflicted child is often the dearest because it is the sufferer. In its pros perity, a mother forgets her oAvn cares, and if it Avins honour she enjoys that most rare of eQI noble feel ings, to rejoice in another's praise more than in her own. Death cannot conquer her affection; it but sanctifies it ; and she has a cherished hope that AA'iU blunt his most bitter pang, — to meet her child be yond the grave, A parent's love, too, does not de sert even the guilty; it outlives shame, for it Avill Avait, like God himself, and hope for penitence, and run to meet it, and rejoice over the lost that is found, more than over the just Avho need no forgive ness. The postern in our Abbey Avails that opens on the walk, is the nearest way from our house to tliat quiet and beautiful valley CroAvndale; and as I intend to conclude my letter Avith some account of it, I take the present opportunity of mentioning that, in my solitary rambles to this favourite spot, I have not unfrequently met a remarkable character of this place, Avho seems as fond of the banks of the Tavy, in the dfrection toAvards CroAvndale, as I am myself. XXVII,] THE PARISH CLERK, 157 And if you AriU but let me so far indulge my fancy as to say I AviU uoav take you thither, whilst Ave pass on I will endeavour to make you, in some measure, acquainted Avith this good old man, who, Avith his fishing- rod in hand, may be often found throAving a line into the river, the favourite amusement of his Avalks, This worthy person, though born in humble life, and possessing no advantages of education beyond those of reading and Avriting, may truly be called a Christian philosopher ; for if to possess the soul in content and peace, to Avalk honestly before God, and to receive His word with the simplicity and docility of a little child, constitute the essentials of true Avisdom, he of whom I speak deserves the title as much as if he had studied in the schools. I knoAV you delight in the ' short and simple annals of the poor;' sAich you wished me to collect, — and where- ever I can find any that have the interest Avhich re ligion and moraUty never fail to give them, they shall not want a record, as far as I have the power to bestow it ; for no more in Avriting than in society Avould I Avish to see th^t "Dives and Lazarus gulph," between the poor and the better classes, Avhich shows nothing so much, in those Avho form it, as a hard heart and an arrogant mind. I have often thought that though in the biographj' of the rich Ave may learn the lessons of this world, avc, generally speaking, should be more likely to mark the Avay to a better in the annals of those amongst the poor, Avho are, as Bossuet says, " Souls hidden to the eyes of men, and chiefly hidden to their own eyes, but Avho know God, and Avho are known of him." The good man of whom I speak bears no higher 158 THE PARISH CLERK. [LET. station than that of clerk in our parish church. He is more than seventy years old, and stUl performs the duties of his office with cheerfulness and regularity. He is a most single-hearted being kind, to every one ; and Arith a privUege, to which his years and his worth fully entitle him, he wUl give his word of ad- rice, and even of admonition, to all, Arith the same good Arill and sincerity ; nor is he other than charit able in alloAA'ing for the infirmities of his neighbours. Mr. Doney, for such is his name, though he has lived here above fifty years, Avas born at Bovey Tracy in this county. He considers all the good that has befaUen him in this Ufe, and the happy course he has hitherto held through it, under Dirine Prori- dence, to be OAring to the care and example of his mother: Avho, though obUged to toil for her daily bread, to bring up her fatherless children in the humblest Avalks of society, appears, by aU I can learn, to have been a most exceUent Avoman. From the earliest age, she taught her Uttle ones the knowledge and fear of God; to be kind and aff'ectionate to each other, truly " forbearing one another in loA'e:" and so much did our worthy clerk feel his obligations to her, for thus "training him up in the way he should go," that when she was on her death-bed, he knelt doAvn by her, thanked her for it, and prayed God to give her the reward. At eleven years old he was put to the now for gotten trade of a stay-maker; but his master dying when he was about eighteen, he went to sea, in the Avhale fishery to the coast of Newfound land. On his return to Taristock he married; and for many jears Uved happUy vrith his wife, till she was removed fi-om him by death. He has since XXVII.] THE PARISH CLERK. 159 taken another, who is still aUve. After his first marriage, he returned to business and settled in this town ; but he soon found that stay-making was fast faUing as a trade ; and though he had no prospect of any other to which he could turn his hand, yet, to use his own words, he put his trust in God, and waited His time as patiently as he could. The parish clerk died just at this juncture ; and the late ricar haring observed hoAV constant Mr. Doney had been in his attendance at church for ten years, and hearing that he bore a good character, gave him the appointment so recently become vacant. This hap pened at the very moment the good man's business was become so dead that he must have been reduced to extreme necessity but for the relief thus afforded to him. Mr. Doney, who in all the events of his life never forgets the ' Great Ffrst Cause,' gave the praise for this blessing where it was due ; and a joyful day was it for him Avhen he became, though the humblest, a servant in the house of the Lord. Two years after, in 1811, Mr. Bray became the Vicar of Taristock; and from that hour to the present he has had the fiUlest experience of the integrity and the true christian piety of his worthy clerk, for whom he en tertains the highest respect and regard. It is not a little remarkable that he has never been prevented by Ulness, or any other cause, a single day, discharg ing his duties in the church during all these years. Our friend, Mr. Doney, is now of a spare person, and begins to feel the infirmities of time, and to show them in his countenance ; yet the expression of cheerfulness and benevolence by Avhich that counte nance has always been distinguished, is unchanged, and I doubt not avUI remain the same to the last. 160 THE PARISH CLERK. [lET. since it is but a reflection of the good man's mind. He has a Aveak thin voice, though he is quick and ready in all matters of business. In his dress he observes the old fashion of Avearing buckles in his shoes; and has tAvo Avigs, one light coloured for week days, the other, somewhat darker, for Sundays. Indeed the Arigs of the Tavistock parish clerks have, I understand, ahvays been famous. Mr. Doney's predecessor, in the time of a former vicar, used to inherit the cast-off wigs of his master, from Avhose noAv frizzled headpiece they Avere alone distinguished by being less poAvdered and pomatumed. It is a great pleasure to us to hear Mr. Doney talk : in doing so he has a habit of standing Avith his hands crossed upon his arms ; and his remarks on the circumstances of the times, or such as may occur in the parish, or on the sermon of a Sunday, though full of simplicity, are Avell worth the hearing and remembering, for they are ahvays founded on truth and good sense; since Mr. Doney is one of those who study the Bible as a practical and daily guide, not merely as a book only to be reverenced and thought of on a Sunday. Indeed, such is his love of truth in its most literal sense, that he ahvays speaks it to the letter ; and Avhatever- he tells you, if about himself, or anything else, you may know it is the relation of a simple fact, neither palliated nor coloured by prejudice, nor having one Avord more or less than is necessary. His ideas on most sub jects are truly primitive, and of that old school Avhich is now alraost forgotten by the rising generation. He considers loyalty to the king, and submission to the laws of the land, and to the rulers of the same, as much a part of scripture commandment as any XXVII.] THE PARISH CLERK. 161 other Avritten precept to regulate our duties, and he likes not to hear those placed by Providence in such lUgh stations too familiarly spoken of, or their conduct too curiously questioned by their inferiors ; as he thinks it tends to shake that reverence and old respect Avhich their office ought to secure for them, for their OAvn benefit, as Avell as for the good of those Avho are placed under them in the state. For the Church, as being founded on the very spu-it of scripture, its liturgy, its ceremonies, and its ministers, he entertains the greatest love and vene ration ; and he thinks that all dissent fi-om such an admirable establishment is the raost bitter and deadly AA'ork of that spirit of evil, Avho goes about to produce this dissent by taking advantage of the pride of some, the doubts of others, and the igno rance of all. The devU he justly holds to be an agent as active in these days as in any of old ; and that it is now one of his Aviles to hide himself, and to make men think little of him, so that he may the more covertly Avatch to catch souls, as the wolf does the stray sheep from the flock. In temporal matters our honest friend is somewhat of a theorist. Snuff he considers as a sort of pana cea ; and that it is particularly adA'antageous in keep ing the head in a comfortable and quiet state ; and he strongly recommends the use of it to those Avho read or Avi-ite much. His favourite theory respecting all diseases that afflict the human frame is, that they arise from nothing but the Arind; and he thinks that the doctors should go to work to cure the pri mary cause rather than secondary effects. This theory he illustrates by arguments draAvn from nature ; the constant and obvious action Avhich the 162 THE PARISH CLERK. [LET. wind has upon the seas, rivers and clouds; its poAver to convey pestilence, or to dispel noxious vapours, &c. And he justly thinks that the severity of most disorders is much increased by man not liv ing so simply or so laboriously as he Avas designed to do by his Creator ; and, above all, by a want of Christian patience and humility — patience to keep his mind easy, and humUity to keep doAvn his ex pectations, so that he may not trouble himself by the crosses and disappointments of the Avorld; to which he considers the favourites of Heaven are more peculiarly Uable; Christ haring promised to all such persecutions as amongst the blessings they are to receive in their pUgrimage here on earth; and all trouble either of mind or body may come under that head. . Many books Mr. Doney does not think good; because, he says, they take off our time fi-om the study of the Bible, Avhich, if a man reads all his Ufe long, avUI be ahvays found new, and he Avill become the Ariser for it. Jeremy Taylor (or " Avorthy Mr. Taylor," as he calls that good and , leaiHied Bishop) is his most favourite author; and so well is he acquainted Arith the few works he has of that divine, that I verily believe he knows the greater part of them by heart ; and he is very fond of referring to them and to scripture, in conver sation, always vrith cheerfulness, and without the least shade of Avhat is termed cant. The truth is, his mind is constantly bent on the word of God ; his conversation, therefore, naturally takes its colour ing from his thoughts. One of his opinions is, that every heart may be known by the pen; for let a person be never so deceitful, he cannot mask him self, for God will not let him, in his Avritings ; and XXVII.] 'THE PARISH CLERK. 163 that if you often Avrite to any one, you may know the heart of that person as Avell as if you could turn it inside out : for little words, he says, like little things, shoAV man or Avoman as much as great ones ; and Uttle things are not taken so much " count" of; and there is seen the spirit, as in the cfrcumstance of the AridoAv's mite. Indeed, Avhenever you enter into conversation Arith good Mr. Doney, it is sure to lead to some moral, or some religious observation; for he never can think that the wisdom, the fear, or the love of God should be separated fi-om anything. The last time I met him in one of my walks to Crowndale, he had his fishing rod in his hand ; and as I learnt we Avere partly going the sarae way, we joined cora pany ; and on that day, like the melancholy Jaques (though the word melancholy does not very weU apply to my friend), I found him " full of raatter." The morning, he told me, Avas not favourable for fishing; Avhich I should not rayself have guessed, as the day Avas sunny and delightful ; but he felt as much amusement, I beUeve, in throvring his line and in catching nothing, as if he had been ever so successful in his sport. As we passed along, the beauty of the river, as its limpid Avaters, that seemed to talk to us, ran gurgling over the rocks and stones, drew our attention ; and the wooded hills and open ing vaUey of Crowndale shone with aU the freshness and rivacity of a morning in the spring: I made some sUght remark on the country ; and he foUoAved it up by an observation that forcibly struck me for its singular coincidence, even in expression, vrith a Une in Shakspeare ; a poet whose AVorks, I am cer tain, he had never seen : for, whUst speaking of the 164 THE PARISH CLERK. [lET. wisdom of God displayed in his creation, Mr. Doney said, " that, for his part, he could find sermons in the very stones, and Providence in every thing about him ! " Another thing he said that was as striking as it Avas just — "That anger Avas a storm, in Avhich reason could not be heard; and Ave must take Christ's word, like Peter, to lay the tempest, or we should sink in it." Mary ColUng, is a great favourite with Mr. Doney ; and no wonder : Avhere there is so much con geniality in true wisdom, (that which rules in the heart) there vrill be a fellowship of kindness and of feeling. If I were to Avrite doAvn half the wise and good remarks I have heard from our worthy parish clerk, this letter Avould not soon find an end. Ano ther anecdote, however, I raust mention, ere I bid adieu to him. He Avas here the other day, and assisted me in looking over the oldest register we have (beginning in 1614), as I Avished to ascertain the tirae of the birth of one of the famous family of Glanviile. We chanced to turn over the pages to the entry of the deaths in the great plague-year in Tavistock, 1626. The list was a formidable one ; so formidable, that Mr. Doney's spirit of religious reflection could not pass it Avithout a comment. He said, and raost justly, how thankful Ave ought to be that our present register did not show the same melancholy numbers, considering hoAV the cholera had lately raged at Plyraouth, and hoAV con stant our communication had been with that toAvn. There was but one year that he remembered, since he had been clerk, AA'hen the deaths in this parish (Avhich are about one hundred yearly) had extended to any extraordinary amount; that Avas AA'hen the XXA'II.] CROWNDALE. 165 small-pox raged so terribly amongst the chUdren. He told me the poor mothers were then, like Ra chel, Aveeping for their children, and Avould not be comforted because they Avere not ; but he did all he could, in his Avay, to console them. " For I told them," said Mr. Doney, " that it Avas Christ's word to suffer Uttle chUdren to come to hira, for of such was the kingdom of heaven ; and that Avas the best thing I could think of to say to them." — " A bishop could not have spoken better, Mr. Doney," I replied, " than jovl did to these poor mothers ; and I dare say you did comfort them." — " I did my best," he re joined, "but all comfort comes fi-ora above." I must not forget, too, an instance of Mr. Doney's good will in speaking in defence of a young clergy man in this neighbourhood whom some one censured, in lus presence, for going out hunting. He told the censurer " not to judge rash judgment ; for Isaac, as good a soul as ever breathed, sent out his son Esau to kill venison for him that he might make a saA'oury dish, and that in our time there Avas no harm in it ; and allowance raust be made for young men, though they were ministers." Our good clerk, in the single-heartedness of his character, his affec tionate respect for his "master,'' as he caUs Mr. Bray, and his love of the church, reminds me much of the worthy parish clerk so feelingly described by Izaak Walton in his Life of Hooker. In the quiet valley of Crowndale, situated about a mile distant to the south-west of Tavistock, and towards Avhich we have been thus slowly advancing, there are none of those bold and striking features which afford a grand subject for a painter, and a good one for an author. Yet the artist may find in 166 CROWNDALE. [lET. it many a picturesque study, and the fertile fancy may there indulge its reverie of past times with ad vantage, surrounded, as the valley is, by objects of a pleasing and pastoral character. VicAved with feelings of this description (and surely foAV can see the birth-place of Di-ake without them), the ima gination, which has a charm to make even nature herself obedient to her behests, may here exert its power in a thousand agreeable visions, till, Uke the azure fields of air, Avhen the rainboAv spreads its glorious arch amid thera, the reposing landscape is seen more beautiful from the varied colouring of a poetic mind. The river flows past the picturesque arches of West Bridge in a rippUng course over its bed of pebbles and stones in many a Arind and bend to wards Crowndale, till suddenly taking a bolder sweep near a place called Brook, it encounters and rushes over several scattered masses of rock, foam ing with that impetuosity after rain Avhich gives so animated a character to most streams that, like the Tavy, have their source in mountainous or elevated lands. A pretty cottage at Brook stands close to ihe water's side, Arith steps cut in the shelving rock that descend to it from the Uttle garden. Fields and meadows are opposite ; and many an old tree, whose roots start from the banks ofthe river, -throws its branches across it where shade and sunshine may alternately be found to relieve each other Arith the most beautiful effects, whilst the tremulous boughs raake those dancing shadoAvs that chequer the ground beneath. In the summer months the fox-glove, here so tall and luxuriant, and a vast va riety of Avild plants, give a rich and gay appearance XXAII.] THE TAVY. 167 to the banks of the hedge-rows and the fields ; and the cattle, in many of them, stray to the river's side, and are often seen standing as motionless as statues cooling themselves in the water. Farther doAvn, the valley is terminated by lofty and steep hills (and there the scene becomes more AvUd, rocky, and broken) that are clothed to their summits Arith wood, and form part of the ancient domain of Walreddon. At no great distance from Brook, and opposite to the spot where Drake was born, the Tavy is seen as clear as crystal. When I Avas last there, several sheep Avere grazing on a plot of grass that runs down to the water's brink where some of them were drinking ; and a Avhole flock of geese, that appeared quite familiar with thefr four-footed companions, flapped their wings and saUed upon the river as stately as swans, with the highest degree of enjoyment, and reminded me of your geese at the rocky basin in the mountain stream near Castlerigg ; for, Uke your flock, they Avould sometimes " thrust their long necks under the water straight down, and turned up their broad yellow feet ; sometimes rose half way up, shaking and clapping their wings ; sometimes vrith retorted head pruned themselves as they floated. Thefr motion did not in the sUghtest degree defile the water, for there was no soU to disturb : the stream, floAring from its mountain springs over a bed of rock, had contracted no impurity in its course, and these birds were so deUcately clean that they could not sully it : the few feathers which they plucked or shook off were presently carried away by the cur rent."* * See Colloquies, vol. i. page 146. 168 BIRTH-PLACE OF DRAKE. [lET. There is something peculiarly beautiful in this spot. It is so sequestered, that it seems shut out from all the Avorld. The surrounding objects are simple ; there is nothing to produce surprise, or any other strong emotion, but all is tranquil and in harmony. There is cheerfiilness in the verdure of the meadows ; the little plot of grass is thickly set Avith tufts of daisies, and Avith the Avhite cloA'er, that banquet for the sheep. It is so sheltered, that the rudest Arinds seldom disturb its repose ; and here the Tavy does not foam or rush along impetuously, but passes onAvard in gentle ripples, " That sing the song which contemplation loves." And HERE Drake was born ; and here stood the old barn-looking cottage (for it Avas no better) in Avhich he first drew breath, with its antique win dows, and all its character of past times about it, till, alas, for modern innovation I this poor building, which should have been held sacred as long as one stone" would rest upon another, Avas pulled doAvn to give place to an ox-stall, or some such common ap pendage to the farra-house hard by *. This hap pened Avhile Mr. Bray was in London, many years back ; for had he knoAvn it in time he Avould have Avritten to the proprietor, the Duke of Bedford, to warn his Grace of the destruction that was medi tated against a vestige so replete Avith interest to all Avho are not insensible to the power of local and historical associations ; to aU Avho delight to trace Avhatever may be connected with men, the greatness ¦* Mr. Bray fortunately made a slight sketch of the house in which Drake was born, not long before it^was pulled down. This was very incorrectly copied in the etching which appeared in Lewis's Views of the Tavy. XXVII.] FAME OF DRAKE. 169 of whose designs is derived from that of their genius; and, God prospering thera, who become an honour to their age and to their country. Mr." Bray once suggested to the Duke of Bedford that, as the house no longer stood, it would be well to erect, as a memorial, a common block of granite near the spot, in the form of an obelisk, like the Romanized-British stones. He wrote, also, the fol lowing distich, by way of inscription, should the Duke think it worth Avhile to have it cut in the block : — " Who the New World bade British thunders shake ? Who mark'd out bounds fo both ? — Our native Drake." I do not knoAV whence CroAvndale derived its name. Mr. Bray, in one of his inscriptions*, has been pleased to consider it was so called from Ed gar's Jiaving there offered the crown to Elfrida. An antiquary would ask his authority for such a supposition; but a poet Avill not be unwilling to admit it, though it have no surer basis than that of imagination. Tradition, in this part of the west, is still busied Avith the fame of Drake ; and all the stories told of him are of a wUd and extravagant nature. No doubt this originated frora the terror of his name, and the wonder of his exploits — exploits so extra ordinary, that they Avere here considered to owe their success to something supernatural in himself, and that he often performed them by the power of enchantment. Nor can we feel surprised at this ''¦ " Fired by her charms, that far outshone renown, Edgar, on Tavy's banks, his kingly crown Laid at Elfrida's feet, as Beauty's meed ; And does not Crowndale still attest the deed ?" VOL. II. 1 170 TRADITIONS OF DRAKE. [lET. credulity when we recollect that, even in these days ¦with the peasantry of Devon, Avitchcraft is still be Ueved to be practised in the county, and that ex traordinary cfrcumstances or sufferings are brought about by the active agency and co-operation of the devU*. Thus was our hero converted, by popular opinion, into a Avizard ; and as such the " old warrior " (for so the lower classes here call Drake) is to the present time considered amongst them. The fol lovring traditionary tales Avill serve to shoAV the sort of necromantic adventures which credulity has fastened on the memory of the great naval admiral ofthe reign of good Queen Bess, One day whilst Sir Francis Drake was playing at the game of Kales f on the Hoe at Plymouth, it was announced to him that a foreign fleet (the Armada, I suppose) Avas sailing into the harbour close by. He showed no alarm at the intelUgence, but persisted in playing out his game. When this was concluded, he ordered a large block of timber and a hatchet to be brought to him. He bared his arms, took the axe in hand and manfully chopped up the wood into sundry smaller blocks. These he hurled into the sea, while, at his command, every block arose a fire- ship ; and, Arithin a short space of time, a general destruction of the enemy's fleet took * Our much esteemed friend, Arthur Chichester, Esq., late of Gre- nofen, and now of Stokelake, told me a story of a farmer coraing to him as a magistrate to consult how he had best proceed against an old woman who had bewitched him in his aim, and his cattle also. I have known many other similar instances. t This is our provincial name, for what, I believe, is nothing more than the common game of nine-pins, or skittles, now played by the vulgar in public-house yards. XXVII,] TRADITIONS OF DRAKE, 171 place in consequence of the irresistible strength of those vessels he had caUed up to "flame amaze ment" on the foes of Elizabeth and of England. Wild as this story is, there is something of grandeur in the idea of Drake standing on such a commanding elevation as the Hoe, vrith the sea (Avhich spreads itself at its foot) before him, and that element, to gether vrith the fire-ships, obedient to the power of his genius, whose energies Avere thus marvellously exerted for the safety of his country. The next tradition respecting Sir Francis Avas coraraunicated to rae by our AVorthy and esteemed fi-iend, Mr. Davies Gilbert, Avho has shoAvn the interest he takes in such fi-agments of the "olden tirae " by the very curious collection he some years ago published of the Cornish Ballads. In the days of Drake the vulgar considered the world to be composed of tAvo parallel planes, the one at a certain distance from the other. In reference to this space it Avas commonly said that Sir Francis had "shot the gulf," raeaning that his ship had turned over the edge of the upper plane so as to pass on to the waters of the under. " There is," said Mr. Daries Gilbert, " an old picture of Drake at Oxford, representing him holding a pistol in one hand, which, in former years, the man who acted as showman to strangers was wont to say (still further improring upon the story) was the very pistol itself Arith which Sfr Francis shot the gulf! " Another story told of this hero is, that the people of Plymouth Avere so destitute of water in the reign of Queen EUzabeth, that they were obliged to send their clothes to Plympton to be washed in fresh i2 172 TRADITIONS OF DRAKE. [lET. water. Sir Francis Drake resolved to rid them of this inconvenience. So he called for his horse, mounted, rode to Dartmoor, and hunted about tUl he found a very fine spring. Having fixed on one that would suit his purpose, he gave a smart lash to his horse's side, pronouncing as he did so some magical words, when off" went the animal as fast as he could gallop, and the stream followed his heels all the way into the town. This assuredly Avas not only the most wonderful, but the most cheap and expeditious mode of forraing a canal ever known or recorded by tradition. The next story of Sir Francis is a very singular one, nor can I in the least trace its origin to any real circurastance which might have been exagge rated in the relation, till it becarae, Uke the other tales about our hero, necroraantic. It seems, in every way, a fiction. The good people here say that whilst the " old warrior " was abroad, his lady, not hearing from hira for seven years, considered he must be dead, and that she was free to marry ¦again. Her choice was made — the nuptial day fixed, and the parties had assembled in the church. Now it so happened that at this very hour Sir Fran cis Drake was at the antipodes of Devonshire, and one of his spirits, who let him know from time to tirae how things went on in England, Avhispered in his ear in Avhat raanner he Avas about to lose his wife. Sir Francis rose up in haste, charged one of his great guns, and sent off a cannon ball so truly airaed that it shot up right through the globe, forced its way into the church, and fell with a loud explosion betAveen the lady and her intended bride- XXVII.] TRADITIONS OF DRAKE. 173 groom. " It is the signal of Drake," she exclaimed, " he is alive, and 1 am still a Avife. There must be neither troth nor ring between thee and rae." Another legend of Sir Francis represents hira as acting from motives of jealousy and cruelty in a way he was very little likely to do. The story says that Avhilst he Avas once sailing in foreign seas he had on board the vessel a boy of uncommonly quick parts. In order to put them to the proof. Sir Francis ques tioned the youth and bade him tell Avhat might be their antipodes at that moment. The boy without hesitation told him Barton Place (for so Buckland Abbey Avas then called), the Admiral's oavu mansion in his native county. After the ship had raade some further progress Sir Francis repeated his question, and the answer he received Avas, that they Avere then at the antipodes of London Bridge. Drake, surprised at the accuracy of the boy's know ledge, exclaimed " Hast thou, too, a devil ? If I let thee live, there Avill be one a greater man than I am in the world;'' and, so saying, he threw the lad overboard into the sea, Avhere he perished. There is likewise another legend concerning Drake, of which I have heard a confused account : it is something about the devil helping him to move a great stone, whilst he was repairing certain parts of Buckland Abbey ; but I have so vague a recollection ofthis story, that I raust not venture to repeat it in detail. You once mentioned having yourself heard this tradition when you were in Devon ; and very possibly you may remember these particulars which I have forgotten. The people of Tavistock say, that notwithstanding this place is fourteen mUes from the sea (at PI3'- 174 TRADITIONS OF DRAKE. [lET. mouth). Sir Francis Drake offered to make his native town a sea-port, if the inhabitants would but haA'e granted to him the estate of Mile-mead. I have something more to say of Drake ere I quit the subject of local anecdotes about him ; but this letter haring run on to an unconscionable length, I must here conclude Avith assuring you, my dear Sir, how much I am. With every feeling of respect. Very sincerely yours, Anna Eliza Bray*. ¦* I cannot here resist extracting from a letter which I had the honour to receive from Mr. Southey, in reply to the above, a passage or two respecting Drake. " You have indeed collected a rich harvest of traditions concerning Sir Francis Drake. I had heard of his shooting the gulf; and of his pushing the boy overboard who knew that they were under London bridge. My story of the stone is yours of the marriage : with this variation, that instead of a ball coming up through the earth, a huge round stone fell through the air upon the train of the intended bride's gown, as she was on the way to church ; upon ¦which she turned back, saying, she knew it came from her husband. My story adds that the stone is still used as a weight upon the harrow ofthe farm ; and if it be removed fiom the estate in which it fell, always returns thither. Yours is much the grander fiction. My story says, moreover, that it was not long before Sir Francis returned, and iu the dress of a beggar asked alms of his wife at her own door ; but in the raidst of his feigned tale, a smile escaped him, and he was recoguized, and of course joyfully embraced. This is borrowed from Guy, Earl of Warwick, and is fuund also in other romances. The miracle of leading the water is common in the lives of the saints, and especially of the Irish saints, who generally led it up hill to make the miracle the greater. "These stories probably originated in the notion which was very piously entertained by the Spaniards that Drake dealt with the devil, and owed his success to the assistance which the devil gave him. The English catholics were likely enough to have received this notion from their Spanish friends; aud it made its way among the people because of its romantic character. The black art in popular tradition XXVII.] TRADITIONS OF DRAKE. 175 is no very black business when it is not employed for black purposes ; and there is generally some contrivance for whitewashing such pro ficients as Drake, Friar Bungay, and Friar Bacon just in time ; — Lope de Vega, to whose Dragontia I have this moraent referred to refresh my memory, says of Drake, that our countrymen admitted he had dealings with the devil, and praised him for it, so that it was no calumny of Spain's, Que no es en erto EspaSa mentirosa : and that he (Lope), when he was in the Armada, had heard all this from some soldiers in the same ship, who had been eight years pri soners in England. The raost curious piece of slanderous fiction concerning him which I have seen is in the Latin poem of a Jesuit. I shall extract it for a note iu my Naval History ; in which, indeed, if your letters had been published, I should have been very much tempted to have incorporated all your stories." 176 LETTER XXVIII. TO ROBERT SOUTHEY, ESQ. Contents: — Drake, his residence at Buckland Abbey— Benefits conferred by him on tbe town of Plymouth — The Leet — D.-ake ; the more interesting parts of his life not generally kiuiwn — His family — His father; probably Vicar of Tavistock— His exile into Kent — Date of Francis Drake's birth not known with any certainty — Six Articles — Sir Francis Russel, his godfather — Drake's father con cealed in a shin — On the death of Henry, becomes a ch;iplain — Francis Drake goes to sea — Dealh of his master, who leaves bim his ship — Drake related to Hawkins — Joins him in an enterprize to the West Indies — Spanish treachery — Drake loses all his property — Vows vengeance against Spain — Fuller's apology for his piracies — Drake sails in the Dragon and the Swan — His fortunes improve — Is raised to the rank of captain — Sails in the Pascha — Arrives off America — Steers for Port Pheasant — Observes Captain Gar. ret's warning — Fortifies himself on the coast, and builds up the pinnaces — Joined by Rawse— Drake receives mformation of Ihe state of Nombre de Dios — Prepares to set forward on an expedition to attack the town — His great hazard — The town assaulted — His men eager for fhe spoil — He leads on to fhe king's treasure — His weapons injured by rain — Panic — His bravery — Danger of his men — Harangues them — Leads on again ; is dangt-rously wounded — Carried to the ships — Spanish Envoy, or spy — His interview with the Captain — Parts company with Rawse — Feels success in this expedition to be necessary to bis reputation — Learns that the richest Spanish settlements are at Carthagena — Anchors near St. Bernard — Prevails with fhe ship carpenter to destroy tlie Swan — Drake departs for Rio Grande — Surprised by a hurricane during the night — A dead calm succeeds — Swarm of mosquitoes — Descry a Spaniard on the opposite shore — Pillage— Erect four magazines for their spoils — His brother John goes in search of the Scymerons — Holds friendly communication with them — Waits to take from the rivers fhe gold cast into them — Drake's motive for desiring to possess wealth — Builds a fortress of timber — His successes — His daring and romantic courage — Leaves the coast of Carthagena for Rio de Heba — Drake's Crew; their distress from want of food — Sickness — Very fatal — Arrives at Port Diego — His brotber Joseph XXVIII.] CONTENTS. 177 dies in his arms — Receives news that the Spanish fleet is arrived at Nombre de Dios to bear off the treasures of Panama — Determines to possess himself of them — A Spanish ship captured — The negroes wish to murder the raen — Drake protects them — Drake sets off on his overland expedition iu pursuit of the treasures — His journey and adventures noticed — Ascends the great tree — Sees the north and south Atlantic oceans — Forms his resolution (o be the first to sail au English ship in those unknown seas — His prayer for suc cess — Arrives near Panama — Marches towards Veuta Cruz — Sur prises a Spanish soldier sleeping — Commands a strict silence — The mu'es laden with treasure appear in sight — Drake's plan rendered abortive by the drunkenness of one of his followers — Robert Pike — A body of Spaniards stationed to receive them— Assault and defence — Drake's victory — His humanity to the conquered — His march overland — Arrives on fhe banks of the Tortugas — Town of huts built with the branches of the Palmetto — Drake sends hi^i token to fhe captain to sail up the river — Drake on board the Minion — Sails to the Cabezas to seize the treasure — Joined by a Frenchman — He leaves the large vessel — Proceeds for Rio Fran cisco — Lands — Mules and their drivers advance from Panama — Spanish soldiers who guard fhe treasure overcome — ^The treasure too weighty to be removed by the crew — Their perilous situation — Drake's gallantry and spirit — The genius of Drake suggests an expedient fo save them — Constructs a raft — For six hours in danger of instant death — Descries the pinnaces — Joy at their deliverance — Rewards the faithful negro, Pedro, with his sword set with diamonds — Returns to England — Drake lands at Plymouth, 1573 — The people run out of church to see him — Drake's great plan to sail his ship in fhe unknown seas — Obstacles — He overcomes thera. — 1577, once more quits the shores of England — Driven back by a. storm — Sails again — comes in sight of the isle of Magadon — Lands — ^The savages seize one of his crew — Touches at Cape- Blanc — The inhabitants beg water— Drake gives it to them — They assist hira with provisions — His fleet draws near the Line — They approach fhe coast of Brazil — Inhabitants — Incantations to raise a storm — April 7th, dreadful storm — The Christopher supposed to be lost — Joins fhe fleet again — Drake enters the river Plate — Violent tempest — Loss of the fleet appreheuded — He enters the Elizabeth — Sends Captain Winter to look after the ships missing. Vicarage, Tavistock, Oct. 8, 1832. My DEAR Sir, In returning to the subject of Drake, I can not forbear observing that there is some reason to i3 178 LIFE OF DRAKE. [LET. suppose our great naval hero retained throughout life an affection for the neighbourhood in Avhich he Avas born; a feeling that we often see strongly marked in raen of genius. It is not unlikely Drake (who, by his own merit and God's favour, rose from a poor lad to become the terror of Spain, and the wonder of England) might have a secret pleasm-e in risiting the scenes of his boyhood, Avhere lus ardent mind had employed itself in those risions of enterprize and forebodings of success which persons of great un derstanding at a very early period are apt to indulge, tUl they sometimes become prophets to themselves, as they feel Arithin them a strong assurance, like the whisper of their better angel, that the course they have to run AriU be marked by more than ordinary things. Drake's fondness for Buckland Abbey, where during his latter years he frequently resided whilst in England, is weU knoAvn. There one of the finest portraits of hira is still preserved, together with his bible, his sword, and his ship- drum, that went Arith him round the world. He was also a munificent benefactor to Plyraouth, by causing a supply of fresh water to be brought to that town, from a distance of many miles, over the rocky and elevated lands of Dartmoor. On the completion of the Leet, for so it is called, the mayor and corpora tion, dressed in thefr formaUties, accompanied by Sir Francis, came out to meet the water, and followed the stream in procession, as it Avas for the first time permitted to floAV into the town, whilst the ringing of beUs and the discharge of cannon welcomed its arrival in full chorus. On referring to your letter of March, 1831, where you so kindly suggested to me the subjects ¦you would vrish to see erabraced in a local history, so as XXVIII.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 179 to make it of universal interest, you have named "the whole of its History and Biography." Sir Francis Drake, born in our parish, certainly comes under the latter class ; and though I shall attempt to give little more than a sketch of his life, particu larly noticing any events that may be connected vrith the county of his birth ; yet, should these letters ever go beyond j'our hands, even a sketch may not be unacceptable to such of my readers (especially in this part of England) as may never have had the good fortune to meet with Johnson's life of our hero ; or Fuller's or Prince's abbreviated notices of him, in the ' Worthies of Devon*.' I have not unfrequently been surprised to find that, even some who are con sidered reading persons, in this neighbom-hood, knew very Uttle more of Drake than that he was born here, saUed round the world, and fought the Armada ; whUst of his personal adventures, and the more minute cfrcumstances of his history, replete as they are vvith Arild and romantic interest, they knew nothing whatever, nor seemed to suspect there was anything Avorth knoAving about them. Francis Drake, the eldest of twelve male children, was the son of a minister of the reformed church. He was born in Crowndale, in the parish of Taris tock, Devon. The time of his birth, as it wUl appear, I think, on examination, is very doubtful ; and as our registers, prerious to 1614, were lost or de- * This letter was written in Oct. 1832. It was not till I had nearly completed the present sketch of Drake's life, that I learnt Mr. Southey was about writing it for his Naval History. Had I known this sooner, I should indeed have touched on the subject with re luctance. 180 LIFE OF DRAKE. [LET. stroyed, probably during the troublesome days of Charles I., there is here no record by which we can now ascertain the date Avith any certainty. That his father's connexions were very respectable, raay be inferred -by Sir Francis Russel, afterwards Earl of Bedford, standing sponsor to the chUd at the font, to whom he gave his own christian name. If Drake's father might have been the vicar of this place, I have not been able to discover ; but as Sir Francis Russel held the abbey lands given by Henry VIII., the patronage of our church came likewise to him, and he might have nominated Drake to the living of Tavistock. It has been generally asserted by historians that our naval hero Avas born about the year 1545. This, hoAvever, I think I shall prove to be incorrect, since it Avas after his birth that his father fled from Devon to conceal himself in Kent, in consequence of his nonconformity to the fearful Six Articles. Now as these articles became a law in 1539, hoAv could Francis Drake, who, when yet a child, Avas the com panion of his father's flight into Kent, to avoid the danger he incurred by dissent, have been born so long after as 1545 ? It may be urged that if Drake held the living of Taristock (as very likely he did), he might, on the appearance of the Six Articles, throw it up ; and retire from the old vicarage in the town, to the poor barn-looking house in Crowndale, in 1539 ; and might not quit that humble retreat, where he as suredly lived in indigence, tiU some intimation was conveyed to him that the law would be enforced against him for his disobedience. Admitting this to XXVIII.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 181 be probable, it is not likely he would be suflrered to remain unmolested in Crowndale for so long a period as till the year 1545. And another argument may be urged in support of the opinion that his son Francis was born before the articles in question were established by law ; namely, that it is most impro bable Sir Francis Russel — a man so highly favoured and enriched by Henry, and one who so Avell under stood the character of his benefactor — would have exposed himself to the risk of displeasing his royal master by standing sponsor, and giving his own name to the son of a clergyman who refrised com pliance Arith the very articles the king had set up ; and one of them under a penalty as cruel as that ordained by Nebuchadnezzar himself in support of his idol — the fiery death, on denial of the same*. This circumstance alone, Avhen duly considered, surely will go far to prove that our Drake was born prerious to that memorable epocha in the history of the church; and be it also reraembered that Sir Francis Russel, to the last, preserved the favour of Henry, — a sure sign he was a cautious man in his conduct towards that tyrant. I have somewhat dwelt on this point, because in most of the books I have seen about Drake (except ing Johnson's, where no date is given), the authors will have it that he was born in 1545. Where is their authority ? In what raanner Drake's father supported himself and his increasing 'family after his flight into Kent is not known ; probably he had friends who assisted '* All persons denying fhe real presence iu fhe Sacrament were, by the first of Henry's Six Articles, subjected to be burnt alive, and to forfeiture of goods, &c., the same as on a conviction of high treason. 182 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. him in his concealment; and as a man who from religious motives placed his very Ufe in perU of an arbitrary laAV could not be other than conscientious in all points of duty, it will not be conjecturing too much if we consider that the devout feelings that marked the character of our great naval captain throughout Ufe Avere derived from the early example and instructions of his father. At one period this good man was so much in fear of persecution, that he lay for a considerable time concealed in the hiUl of a ship, somewhere off the Kentish coast. On the death of Henry, however, he obtained a situation as chaplain in the navy ; and it Avas about this time that he bound Francis apprentice to the master of a small bark that traded to France and Zealand. His serrice was a hard one on ship-board, but it Avas not Arithout the reward of its fidelity; for his master dying unmarried, he left Francis Drake his ship as a legacy, with all things belonging to the same. On this event Johnson, with that moralizing spirit which renders all his Avorks so beautiful and so instructive, observes — " That rirtue is the surest foundation both of reputation and fortune, and that the first step to greatness is to be honest." Let us imagine for a moment what must have been the feelings of such a mind as Drake's, on finding himself (hitherto a poor lad, toiling hard and earning but his bare subsistence) at once master of that little world, for such is a ship, which was by degrees to become the means of advancing him in the neces sary knoAvledge of the seas, in the patience of expe rience, the constancy of courage, and in the advan tages of industry, till he should compass the world itself, as the first British navigator who had the XXVIII.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 183 boldness to conceive and to execute such a plan. Hitherto he had been in the best school — that of obedience and faithful service to his master — to learn to govern others; since we generaUy find in life those persons Avho have submitted to poAver in the onset of their career, are the safest with whom it may be trusted in a riper age. For some time Drake followed his old master's trade with diligence and success ; but narrow seas and a large mind could ill agree together ; for the first were not cal- ciUated to admit the exercise of those great enter- prizes his genius and his activity prompted him to undertake. He sold, therefore, the bark in which his infant fortunes had been cradled on the seas, and fuU of those golden dreams vrith which projects of the new world now filled all heads, the strongest as well as the weakest, he prepared to venture his gains in the trade of the Western Indies. It is not a Uttle amusing to look back, in old Avriters, for the accounts they brought horae of the new world ; where gold and jewels were described to be alraost as plentiful as in the Ai-abian tales, and where they seemed to Ue as easy of access as if the adventurers carried vrith them the wonderful lamp of Aladdin, to procure such treasures by a wish, a word, and a turn of the hand. Drake was related to Hawkins, whose family were of very ancient standing in the county of Devon. Captain John Hawkins had projected an enterprize to the West Indies, and as the reputation of his cousin Francis Avas noAV fully established as a good seaman, he was not sorry to be joined by him in the undertaking. It was a luckless one for both ; since the gold and sUver they had in riew Avere protected 184 LIFE OF DRAKE. / [lET. by something that to Drake was more formidable than any danger Avould have been in an open and obvious forra — Spanish treachery ; and soon did he and his friend feel its effects. For notwithstanding that England and Spain Avere then on terms of peace, and that these adventurers had received per mission from the viceroy to traffic in the Bay of Mexico, they were so suddenly and treacherously attacked by the Spaniards, that Hawkins lost several ships and men, and Drake the whole of his property Avhich had been embarked in the speculation. In a moment of irritation, when all the fruits of his in dustry (gathered in the little bark where his humble fortunes had been so much more true to hira than his greater expectations) were lost for ever he voAved to wreak his vengeance on the Spaniards. He has been charged by some, 'more particularly the envious of his own time, with having kept this vow more rigidly than justly ; but Fuller seems willing to clear Sir Francis of this charge, and therefore puts the bur then of the blame on another man's shoulders : for he says, "that after Drake's goods were taken by the Spaniards at St. John de Ulva, and he himself scarcely escaped with life, to make him satisfaction, Mr. Drake was persuaded by the minister of the ship, that he might lawfully recover the value of the King of Spain, by reprisal, and repair his losses upon him any Avhere else : the case was clear in sea- divinity ; and few are such infidels as not to believe doctrines which make for their own profit : where upon Drake, though then a poor private man, un dertook to revenge himself upon so mighty a mo narch." This early check in the fortunes of our townsman. XXVIII.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 185 that Avould have broken the spfrits and ruined the enterprize of an ordinary man, Avas with him, perhaps, an advantage : since so strong are the resources of strong minds, that it is not till roused by adversity and the most formidable obstacles, they know their own poAver, or put forth their utmost energies ; and even if such minds bend for awhile, it is but like the bending of the archer's bow, to acquire their necessary impetus. Another cause also might have operated to produce those extraordinary exertions which enabled Drake so soon to rise again after these disasters ; his mind Avas not of that order which can rest in the present : men of his mould call up their recollections ofthe past to aid their judgment in the future ; and the remerabrance of raisfortune, there fore, is Avith them less an evil than a monitor, by Avhose assistance experience becomes Arisdom. Intent on the plan of reprisals recommended to him by " Sea-divinity," and having found hoAV ne cessary it Avas to arm himself with caution as the best mode to avoid the snares of treachery, Avith little means and great patience, Drake made two or three voyages, first in the Dragon, and afterwards in the Swan, to render himself perfectly Avell acquainted with the coast, and to gain all necessary intelligence respecting the Spanish settlements : in these voy ages of investigation, he fell in with sorae minor Spanish \-essels, and having gained a prize or two, it helped to repair his broken fortunes. He was soon after in commission, and reached the rank of captain ; now, therefore, he determined no longer to delay the execution of that voav, by which he had called heaven to Avitness that he would requite his injuries on the King of Spain. 186 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. Pursuant to this plan, on Whitsun-eve, May 24th, 1572, Drake, in the Pascha of seventy tons, accom panied by his brother John, in the Swan of twenty- five tons, vrith no greater force than seventy-three men and boys (including the crew of both vessels), weighed anchor from Plymouth, then the most fre quented harbour of England. The day Avas de Ughtful ; and as Drake set forth Arith his little arma ment, on so bold an enterprize, Avhilst the Avaves gently bowed their proud crests before him, and with yielding submission received the bark that was des tined to perform such wonders on their turbulent domain, Ave may fancy the exhiUrating hopes that played, like the beams of that day's sun, around his entei-prize, and gave to the brave heart which formed it sorae assurance and presentiraent of his success. The vessels steered their course for Norabre de Dios, a town where vast quantities of wheat from Panama were stored to await the opportunity of being conveyed into Spain. On the 2nd of June, they hove in sight of the high lands of Sancta Martha, in America, and directed their course to Port Pheasant, so named by Drake in a previous voyage, from the vast number of birds of that de scription he had observed near the coast. In this spot, in every way convenient, he proposed to buUd up the pinnaces he had ready on board his oaati ship for that purpose. But whilst rowing towards the bay, he observed a smoke arise from the woods, and not knowing vrith Avhat number of his enemies he might have to encounter, he caused a reinforcement of men to join him from the ships. He landed, when on advancing toAvards the AVOods, on a tree so large that. Fuller says, " four men could not fathom (en- XXVIII.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 187 compass) it," he saAv a plate of lead that had been nailed aloft by his friend Captain Garret, of Ply mouth, giving hira Avarning to depart those shores, as the Spaniards had discovered that convenient harbour, and his stay there would be dangerous. The plate was dated only five days before it was thus seen; and the smoke in the woods was found to arise fi-om a large burning tree, no doubt set on fire by Garret to draw the attention of his brother na- rigator to the spot. DrakeJ however, was not to be deterred fi-om his purpose by the fear of such enemies, and so adopting a plan of precaution, (Avhich De Foe, probably from this cfrcumstance, afterwards made one of defence to Robinson Crusoe's cave,) he caused his men to fell certain trees groAring near the shore, Avhich (if a very old book that I am noAV consulting respecting the voyages of Drake speaks truth) were nothing less than "forty yards about," and vrith these he set up a wall that Avas as stout as his own heart, and would stand battering like a feudal castle. Under cover of this wall the captain and his men built up the pinnaces ; nor did he wish, perhaps, for " more men from England," though had he done so the wish Avould not have been in vain ; for here he Avas joined by his friend Captain RaAVse of the Isle of Wight. The little fleet, Arith this new accession of strength, now set sail towards Norabre de Dios; and near the Isle of Pines they fell in Avith two fi-igates, of Avhich they speedily made themselves masters. From sorae negroes on board these ships Drake gained intelligence of iraport ; namely, that Nombre de Dios expected the arrival of some troops to defend the toAvn from the attack of the Sey- 188 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. merons; a race of blacks who, driven by cruelty, had escaped from their tyrannical Spanish masters, and had formed themselves into a kingdom under two monarchs of their own choosing and people. The negroes, whose information Avas most important to Drake, he set on shore, so that they might join their countrymen, the Scymerons, and not have it in their power, by going back to their old masters, to give any intelligence of his being in the neighbourhood of his eneraies. Leaving three ships and the carrack Avith Captain RaAvse, and selecting fifty-three of the best men, armed with pikes, targets, fire-arms, the old English bow, and the cloth-yard arrow, a weapon then not out of fashion, and taking also a couple of drums, with a trumpeter as herald, Drake departed on his bold adventure, and in five days approached the enemy's shore, where, having represented to his men the greatness of the enterprize, the richness of the spoil, and how much a determined courage would enable them to possess it, he prepared to assault the town at the dawn of the ensuing day. But as dan gers are more formidable when dwelt upon in ex pectation, and are best encountered by that activity which alloAvs no leisure for their becoming magnified by fear, Drake soon found how necessary it was to subdue the panic fast spreading amongst his people by at once leading them on to action, as their OAvn scanty numbers, and the greatness of the hazard, seemed to depress every heart. In this juncture he had recourse to a simple arti fice, in the hope to render his men Avilling to begin the attack; for the moon shining that night with uncommon lustre, he persuaded them it was dawn XXVIII.J LIFE OF DRAKE. 189 more than an hour before the morning light could appear. And soon had his people enough to en gage their attention, and to draAv thera off" from their fears : for a Spanish ship, lately arrived in the bay, seeing the moA'ement of the English, sent a boat to give notice of the circumstance to the go vernor of the toAvn; and Drake, before he could land his men, had to chase it to the opposite side of the bay. He then disembarked without moles tation ; but a gunner fled from his post on the shore, gave the alarm, and speedily the rolling of drums and the ringing of bells was heard arousing the inhabitants of Nombre de Dios to arms. The town was Avithout Avails ; and many of the people, surprised by the sudden nature of the attack, fled on the first shock, before their assailants, in every direction. Some, however, attempted resist ance, several were kUled, and a few taken prisoners. Drake obliged one of these to guide him to the governor's house, where the treasures of the mines of Panama were deposited in heaps. On entering this storehouse of riches, the first view seemed to realize all the extravagant accounts that had been brought home about the wealth of the New World ; for the silver Avas piled in bars of immense Aveight and bulk, so that each man who raight hope to take his share, considered his fortune ready laid before him, and needed but the stretching forth his hand to make it his oavu. But every one of these soon found Avealth indeed a burthen; and that dan ger and death raust be defied before they could convey it to the boats, and secure its possession. Drake saw the hazard and the difficulty of encum bering his people vrith booty that must retard or 190 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. frustrate their march. The pursuit of fortune, hoAvever, is not easUy abandoned, even vvhen the universal spoiler, death himself, stands ready to in tercept it ; and the nuraber of those Spaniards Avho were now fast gathering in order to raake a de termined resistance rendered the case desjierate unless the English acted more as soldiers than as spoilers. At this crisis, it vvas not by the influence of reason alone, but of hope, that Drake could induce his men to abandon the El Dorado of the Governor's stores : for he promised them greater things, wordd they but foUoAV him ; he would lead them forward to the king's treasure, where gold and jewels, instead of silver, should become the guerdon of their labours. They believed and foUowed him, as he guided them to his brother, and stout John Oxenham (a fellow townsman of the captain) Avhere they had already drawn up Arith their detachment, in the market place of the tOAvn. But Avhilst Drake (who was now suff'ering from, and concealing a sharp Avound he had received) displayed that courage and con duct Avhich marked all his actions, the violent de sfre his men had shown for riches was suddenly succeeded by the frequent attendant of that pas sion — fear. The apprehension that the Spaniards would avail themselves of these moments to master the pinnaces, and so cut off their retreat, struck such a panic into their hearts, that they were now as eager to secure the ships, as the sight of the treasure had before rendered them careless about their safety. Drake, however, learning from one he had sent forward to inquire, that there was Uttle cause for this alarm, persisted in leading on to the XXVIII.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 191 king's treasure. In their march a most serious disaster befell them; for the rain poured doAvn in such torrents that it injured the strings of their bows, and the matches of their guns. This mis fortune produced delay ; and delay brought on a rencAval of panic, so exaggerated in its character, that they fancied, by this time, the Avhole country must be up in arms, and ready to rush upon them. Certain it is, fi-om these repeated instances of a vrilful indulgence in imaginary fears, that however brave Drake might be hiraself, he had raany cow ardly folloAvers, who were as likely to ruin as to support a bold atterapt. He saw this, and re proached thera Avith their Avant of resolution to accomplish their own desfres, Avhen he stood ready to lead them on to honour and to fortune. The feelings of some Avere stung by his reproaches, and the avarice of others excited by the hopes he had renewed ; so that all were once more ready to stand the hazard of the hour. After ordering Oxenham, his brother John, and their people to seize the king's treasure, Drake led the rest of the men to take their stand in the mar ket, so as to oppose the scattered soldiers of the garrison, Avho might othei-Avise become dangerous if suffered to unite into one body. But loss of blood from his AVOund overpowered the strong spirit of the leader ; he fell to the earth as he Avas about to advance ; and now was it first knoAvn to aU that, whUst acting Avith such firmness and resolution, Drake had suff'ered an effusion of blood so great as actually to fill the raarks of his footsteps as he moved. The sight of their beloved captain on the point of death, for no one expected he could survive 192 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. that hour, recalled their better judgment ; and they felt that the life of a brave man Avas of more value than the treasures of Panama. All were eager to bear him off in safety ; though Drake, restored to a sense of suff'ering by the strong drink they had given him^ Avas the only man Avho expressed a wish that the enterprize might not be abandoned for his sake. But, for once, their fears had taken a right direction, and alarmed for their captain's preser vation, not even his own entreaty could prevail Avith thera to risk it. They tore the scarf he wore from off his shoulders, bound up his Avounds, and Avith all speed carried him back to the boats, and thence to the ships, by the dawn of the next day. They here made no caj)ture but that of taking from the bay a vessel Avhose cargo Avas of wine; and directing their course to a neighbouring island, they reposed there a few days to recruit themselves after their late disastrous exploit. During this in terval, a Spanish gentleman Avas deputed by the governor of Nombre de Dios to visit Drake, and learn if he might be the same person who the year before had landed on those shores ; if the arrows he had used in the late assault Avere poisoned ; and, if so, what must be done to cure the Spaniards of their wounds? This envoy acquitted himself Avith credit in his commission, and paid the captain many compliments on the courage he had displayed to the cost of the toAvn. Drake, though he guessed him to be a spy, received his compliments Avith courtesy, sent him aAvay with a gift of some value, and Avith the assurance that he knoAv too well Avhat belonged to the laws of cirilized nations to send poisoned arrows from an English bow; but that he would XXVIII.J LIFE OF DRAKE. 193 never desist in maldng "reprisals on the Idng of Spain, by sharing with him some of that gold and silver Avhich he got out of the earth in order to trouble it." Shortly after this, Drake and Captain Rawse parted company ; the latter having formed so ill an opinion of the expedition, that he desired no longer to remain a participator in Avhat he anticipated would be an eventual failure and disgrace. His companion was too vrise to be thus easily disheart ened : for though great success raay, by a con currence of fortunate circurastances, attend the ad venturous and laborious in the outset of their career, yet success, generaUy speaking, is like a coy mis tress Avho must long be Avooed, and that too through many a repulse, ere she is won. Drake knew well enough, before he saAV it confirmed in the conduct of RaAvse, that with common minds it is success alone that gains confidence and constitutes merit. Few are above the prejudices of the many: with them the question is, Avhat has a man gained ? not what does he deserve ? — if reputation be his, it is well ; and the Avay is opened to call forth and en courage his most ardent endeavours; since repu tation gives poAver as it expands, even as those winds carry on the vessel, as they swell the sail, Avith Avhich tliey only played before, and passed by Avhilst the canvass hung useless on the mast. Drake knew how much his reputation at home, as well as abroad, depended on the success of this hardy enterprize : he would be extolled for its very daring if all Avent well, but censured as little short of mad ness if he returned back with nothing but a shat tered bark, and loss of time and means. He uoav, VOL. II. K 194 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. therefore, held debate with his own spirit, that never gave him other than bold counsel, and it impelled him to proceed. Haring learnt, from a black he received on board at the Bay of Nombre de Dios, that the richest of the Spanish settlements were at Carthagena, he resolved to make what sail he could to attack that place. On the 13th of August, the Pascha, the SAvan, and the three pinnaces, anchored between the islands of Charesha and St. Bernard. Drake, on bringing the vessels into the harbour, observed at the entrance a ship at anchor. In this he discovered, to his surprise, but one old man, Avho freely gave him all the information that Avas required, and told him " that the ship's company Avere gone on shore that evening to fight about a young lady, who had occasioned a quarrel between some of them on board." He also said, "that, about two hours be fore, a pinnace had passed by with an appearance of haste; and AvhUst so doing, warned the croAV to look to themselves, for an enemy was at hand. Drake having heard (before he received this intel ligence of his being discovered) guns firing as sig nals in the harbour, gave up his design of attacking Carthagena ; since it raust be a hopeless enterprise whilst the town stood in readiness to resist him; so much had he calculated on that distraction which a surprise was likely to spread amongst his enemies, as necessary to his success. He Avas, how ever, somewhat recompensed for his disappointment by capturing a large Spanish ship and two smaller vessels. Drake haring found that the pinnaces, from their lightness and fast sailing, were more useful to him XXVIII.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 195 in these seas than his brother's ship, and that he had not hands enough to man both the larger vessels, determined to accomplish by stratagem a plan he had formed to free himself frora the incum brance of the Swan, to whose destruction he felt certain his brother never would consent, as, being master of her, he had grown fond of the A'essel. There was on board her a carpenter, named Thomas Moon, to Avhom Drake confided not only his plan, but the charge of its execution. This was nothing- less than, in the night whilst all the crew Avere asleep, that he should bore sorae holes in the well of the Swan, sufficiently large to render her incapable of saUing, however much, like the bird after which she was caUed, she had hitherto floated on the waters. Moon probably considered the captain who forraed this plan was under the influence of that planet whose narae the carpenter had himself the honour to bear, since, expressing the utmost astonishment at the proposal, he frankly told the projector he had no mind to be hanged by his brother for sinking his ship. But Drake, chief in command, gave him his word that a rope should neither touch his neck nor his back for doing this serrice, if it were dis covered ; and if not, certainly there was no likeli hood, however musical swans might be in their death- note, that this would tell the tale of her end. On the next moming Drake invited his brother to go fishing with him ; and as they rowed off", he casually asked what it was that raade the Swan Ue so deep in the water. Inquiry followed ; when, to the conster nation of her master, he found there was six feet water in the hold. All hands were set to work at the pumps ; but it was too late to find a remedy ; k2 196 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. and Drake advised that the ship, when all the stores had been laken out of her, should be burnt. This advice, though reluctantly, was put in execution, and the captain's project completely effected, for his favorite pinnaces were uoav manned as he re quired. Not long after this, Drake departed for the Rio Grande, where he took in a supply of fresh Avater. Here they moored close inshore ; and during the night Avere surprised by one of those fearful hurri canes coramon in such latitudes. So aAvful was the thunder and lightning, that it astonished and even filled Avith terror the minds of such of the crew as had never before Avitnessed a storra in this part of the world. Drake assured them it would soon pass; and be succeeded by a dead calm. This happened ; but the calm brought with it a swarm of flies and mosquitoes that stung them even to torture, and proved worse than the storm. Here, on the next morning, they were descried by a Spaniard on the opposite side the river, Avho, mistaking them for his countrymen, waved his hat, and shook his long hanging- sleeves, as a signal that they should ap proach. They obeyed the summons, but no sooner did they touch the shore than, finding his error, the Spaniard ran away ; and leaving his plantations and his stores at the mercy of the English, Drake pro bably thought his vow of reprisals on the King of Spain extended to the subjects of that monarch, for he did not scruple to load his men with such a sufficient reinforcement of wines and good cheer, that they were obliged to buUd four magazines here, to contain the spoils now taken, together with those they removed from the ships, placing them at XXVIII.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 197 such distances, that if one should be taken, the rest would probably' remain undiscovered and secure. During this interval his brother John had been in search of the Scymerons, those independent ne groes Avho had fied fi-om their Spanish masters, and set up a kingdom for themselves. With these Drake purposed to open a friendly communication, as only by their assistance he now could expect to accomplish the great object of his hopes. A place therefore Avas appointed by his brother, after an ex change of hostages, for the captain to hold this meeting Avith the leaders of the blacks. And this he found to be an island as beautiful as it Avas con venient ; where, from the rocks that guarded the river, it was impossible he could be surprised by an attack during the night. The acquisition pf Spanish gold and silver seems to have been the great aim of Drake's reprisals on the King of Spain ; since, learning from the negroes that during the rainy season, noAV set in, there was no hope they could draw up from the rivers the treasures they had taken from the Spaniards and had cast into them for concealment, he deterrained to AA-ait the proper season for such fishing. But though in all these expeditions treasure Avas the ob ject, I cannot fancy that a mind like Drake's could be influenced by the mere acquisition of metals, however bright and rare. It was the enterprise, the difficulty, the activity of spirit, the genius to form and the boldness to execute schemes that a less daring man Avould never have dreamt of, that prompted his purpose. The interest was in the danger of the pursuit more than in the profit to.be gained by it : since, could Drake have possessed 198 LIFE OF DRAKE. [LET. himself of the whole wealth of Panama by quietly trading for it in the city of London, Spanish gold woiUd probably have had as little attractions for him as the patient and calculating commerce by Avhich it must be gained in drudgery and peace. He was something like the racers in the ancient games, who would not have stooped to pluck a laurel fi-om the finest tree that ever bloomed, but who would strive for it to the death when woven as the croAvn of ric tory. Another motive might also have influenced Drake's eager pursuit of Avealth : he might have found how absolutely necessary it was to acquire it in order to secure such assistance as he needed in carrying on his great and after-enterprises, which, at this period, he could only meditate upon Avithout having the present means to attempt. To return to the subject. In the interval that must pass before the cessation of the rainy season Drake could not rest unemployed. After, therefore, building a fortress of timber with the assistance of the negroes, he determined to cruise the pinnaces in those seas, and comraenced his plan by taking a ship off Carthagena, but did not land on the coast. A stratagem was now attempted by the Spaniards to get him into their power; for one of his old prisoners, to whom he had given liberty, artfully came to him, as on a friendly errand, to offer hira a supply of necessaries, in the hope that such fafr promises might induce him to land at disadvantage. Drake suspected the snare, and avoided it ; and not long after the enemy sent out two frigates against him, but these he compelled to Avithdraw; and, having sunk one prize and burnt another before their eyes, his prudence for once forsook him, as he XXVIII.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 199 committed the extravagant act of leaping from the boat and standing alone on the shore, in sight of the Spanish troops ; yet such was the reputation of his courage, the terror of his name, and the fear of his pinnaces, that not one could be found bold enough to venture to approach him Avith any hostUe purpose. Such a single-handed exploit as this would have been Avorthy Don Quixote, or any of those heroes of the old romance Avhom he imitated ; but Johnson, though he censures the imprudence of Drake in this action, observes that possibly he might consider it would not only contribute to heighten him in the esteem of his oavu followers, but in the opinion of the Spaniards, Avho were great admirers of chivalry and romance, and Avho might yield the more easily to a hero of whose fortitude they had so high an idea. Finding the country in arms against hira, Drake resolved to leave the coast of Carthagena for Rio de Heba, though so iU was he prepared for any new enterprise, and so much did his men murmur at their distresses, being reduced to a great scarcity of necessary food, that it was only by the determined spirit he evinced that he could induce them to be lieve the repeated assurances he made that, would they but follow him with willing hearts, he would find a way, and speedily, to supply all their wants. But they had not sailed far Avhen sickness, the con sequence of such hardships, began to spread among them, and the quarter-master, a very skilful seaman, died in a few days. In this state of distress Drake resolved to return to the Scymerons, with whom he had left his brother and his people, to attempt an inland and sudden 200 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. attack upon the enemy. But this Avas destined to be the dark hour in the fortunes of Drake; for on his arrival at Port Diego among his ne gro friends, he learned that his brother, having been driven by the importunity of his men, against his own better judgment, to a rash attempt, met his death whilst boarding a Spanish frigate, and almost unarmed for defence. Not many days after he had received this melancholy intelligence his 3'ounger brother Joseph died in his arms of that malignant distemper which carried off so many of the crew. This was a severe trial of the fortitude of Drake, for so much did the sick at this raoment stand in danger, that his sorrow was divided be tween regret for the dead and alarm for the living; and scarcely had he paid the last rites of fi-aternal regard Avhen he Avas again called into action. The Scymerons brought him word that the Spanish fleet had arrived at Nombre de Dios to bear off the treasures of Panama to the king. These treasures must be transported overland to the ves sels, and possibly might be intercepted and taken by a vigorous attack. This, therefore, Avas the moment in which Drake could most effectuaUy make repri sals on the king. Glad, perhaps, of an opportunity which, by the necessity of great exertions, AA'ould rouse his mind from the gloom that cast so heavy a cloud upon his spirit, he determined to lose no time in executing his premeditated attempt. With all actirity, therefore, did he prepare for the enterprise : nor can we wonder at this, since, from the perpetual variety of circumstances, escapes, and dangers, that render sudden transitions of feeling as a second nature in the character of seamen, they are of all XXVIII.] LIFE OF DRAKE; 201 classes the least liable to indulge grief Avith inac tion. Probably no sailor ever yet broke his heart whilst on ship-board in the career of his duties. At this juncture one of Drake's pinnaces, that had been sent to Nombre de Dios to ascertain the fact if the Spanish fleet might be arrived there or not, captured a frigate of the enemy on their return to the captain, and brought her, with all hands prison ers, safe inshore. The sight of so many Spaniards on board aroused in the iiegroes their old fury of revenge, to Avhich the tyranny of their former mas ters had, in the first instance, given birth ; and they now begged Drake to give the prisoners up to them, that they raight satisfy their vengeance in the blood of these \-ictiras. Drake, who received the proposal with the horror it deserved, now as sumed that command over his allies which he exercised at all times over his own people, and would not suff'er a hair of the captives' heads to be touched, ordering them to be placed in his own pinnace for their security and protection. Soon after he set out on his hazardous attempt, taking Avith hira not more than twenty of his raen (so many having been swept off by the fever), and about twenty-eight of the blacks, armed with wea pons for hunting and fowling as Avell as for battle; In their march Drake conformed entirely to the manner of living of the Scymerons — resting at night in deep and sequestered valleys, where, not unlike the Celtic nations, they set up circular huts, thatched them with the branches of the palm-tree, and left a hole at the conical top for a chimney, and a small aperture by way of entrance. Some of these huts Avere found ready to their hand, having been con- k3 202 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. structed in previous marches up the country. The more minute circurastances recorded of this journey are fuU of interest, and deserve to be repeated, were they not too numerous to find a place in an account of Drake, which must of necessity be confined to the narrow limits of a sketch. I must not, however, pass in silence the mention of one thing so much to the honour of our hero, that in his wanderings through these difficult tracts, in a land of hostility, he forgot not that Power which went before his path, and was as a shield to him against danger. The poor Scymerons had acquired some imperfect knowledge of Christianity fi-om thefr old Spanish raasters ; but their faith, like too many Roman Catholic converts, rather consisted in an observance of the superstitions than of the spirit of their new religion. For though, as we have lately seen, they scrupled not to beg the blood of their captive enemies, they failed not to bow reverently before the Cross ; a custom which Drake taught them to abandon, and in its stead to repeat the Lord's Prayer. The greater part of their journey was indeed delightful, for they travelled through thick woods, and under shadowy palms that clothed the hills and sheltered the valleys from the wind and the sun, whilst they often stopped on the greensward and reposed, as the gentle breeze played upon them; by the side of sorae rivulet or stream that ran trickling past the green turf, and served them as a fountain to cool their thirst, or refresh their lunbs after the labour of hunting their food in the Avoods. At length they arrived on the summit of a lofty eminence, Avhere there stood a tree of such enor- XXVIU.] LIFE OF DRAKE, 203 mous groAvth, that it was held as a wonder by the Scymerons, who pointed it out to Drake, and told him from its top might plainly bo descried the North and South Atlantic Ocean — in the latter no EngUsh A'essel had yet spread her sails. In order to ascend this tree of observation with greater ease Drake caused a flight of steps to be cut in it, and the day being remarkably clear he mounted to its top. Thence he vicAved with extreme deUght the mag nificent scene which, from such a height, was spread Uke a map before him. There lay the boundless Atlantic, seen in its most opposite points ; that ocean of Avhich fame had spoken vrith such golden promise, and had rendered the theme of wonder as well as of praise. The sight of this in a mind like Drake's, Avhose desires were even yet more bound less than those seas, for they compassed the vast globe, produced the most powerful effect; and as he looked on the interminable waters, seen in the distance as if mingling themselves with the air and with the clouds, he felt the kindling emotions of his genius. And as the vast and the noble are ever allied to genius, AvhatcA'er be the object of pursuit, and (except in rainds wholly perverted) can never be separated from sorae strong feeling of the Divinity, his emotions raised his thoughts to Him Avho had formed that august scene by which he was surrounded ; and calling on God to grant him but life once to saU an English ship in those unknoAvn seas, he declared the utmost desire of his soul would be accomplished. The prayer was heard and granted ; for, God prospering him, Drake lived 204 LIFE OF DRAKE. [leT. to become the British navigator Avho, in the lan guage of our great poet, " First bound a girdle round about the earth." Soon after this the captain and his followers arrived safe Avithin a short distance of Panama, the toAvn whence the treasure Avas to be transported to Nombre de Dios. Having gained intelligence by one of the most acute amongst the Scymerons em ployed for that purpose as a spy, that the treasurer of Lima would on that very night set forward Arith his mules burthened with gold and precious stones, Drake immediately marched towards Venta Cruz. Near this toAvn they surprised a Spanish soldier, took him prisoner, and from him they received Avhatever information they required at this juncture. The captain now commanded his raen to observe a strict silence, to lie down in the long grass, in two separate bodies, one on either side the road, and on no account to disturb the Recoes Avho were coming from Venta Cruz, since such carried nothing but common merchandize to Panama, and the latter Avas the quarter Avhence came the expected spoUs. He also commanded Oxenham to seize the foremost Recoe, and the chief of the blacks to do the same by the hindmost, as the mules of the Recoes travelled in a string, the one haring a bridle of communication with the other ; so that if the foremost received a check, all stood stUl. The Spanish drovers, with whose character Cervantes and Quevedo have ren dered us so familiar, were at all times very fond of their mules, and not only dressed them up AA'ith a profusion of gay colours, but hung about their necks a number of little bells, whose sound, which they XXVIII,] LIFE OF DRAKE. 205 thought delighted the ears of the aniraals as much as it did their own, gave notice of their approach in the darkest night. Drake's orders had been precise, and so simple that it seemed impossible they could be circumvented : yet though it had cost him so much time, labour, and thought to bring his enterprize to bear, it cost a drunken man but one act of folly to upset the Avhole Avithout plan or purpose ; and so it is often seen in huraan life, in things of less as well as greater moment than Drake's reprisals on the King of Spain. Days and years of toil are sometimes spent Avith no other profit to the laborious than the secret and rae lancholy consciousness that he deserved a better roAvard than he found : Avhen perhaps he may at length be on the eve of success, some cross turn of fortune, some cunning enemy, or sorae foolish friend may step in and raar all, leaving the luckless person to a renoAved exercise of that patience Avhich often outlives hope ; for patience, though a great virtue, is not always friendly to exertion. However, Drake's patience, hopes, and perseverance, like his three favorite pinnaces, always held company together ; and this night they Avere to be put to no small trial, after all his pains. The accident which noAV occurred had its origin Avith one Robert Pike (a Tavistock raan, and con sequently a fellow townsman Avith our captain), and Avho, notvrithstandlng the foolish manner he acted in this instance, afterwards rose, by fighting and beating three Spaniards, Avho carae in united opposi tion against hira, to the rank of Captain ; and by that honourable style was for many a day reraembered in the place that gave him bfrth. Pike, deprived of 206 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. all prudence by the quantity of brandy he had taken, quitted his station, and prevailed with one of the negroes to bear hira company, that they might dis play their courage by being the first Avho should sally forth and stop the mules without the assistance of their felloAvs. This act of folly betrayed them to the observation of a passenger, who speedily conveyed his suspicions to the town : the treasure was held back ; so that when Drake and his people came to seize the mules, they found them laden vrith nothing but prorisions, and learnt frora the Recoe they made prisoner, that the whole force of the country Avas likely to be upon them. In this situation there Avas no choice but that of retreat, Avhich would show thefr OAvn fears, or to force their Avay to Venta Cruz : as the latter was the raost bold and hazardous scheme, it suited best Arith the spirit of Drake ; it was there fore adopted. Within a short distance of the town they found stationed, ready to receive them, a body of Spaniards, assisted by a whole convent of monks, who were determined on this occasion to act as the church militant against the famous heretical Captain of England. No sooner did he appear than they called upon him to yield ; a call that was answered by Drake with the discharge of his pistol ; and ira mediately after he gave the signal for action. The assault and defence Avere conducted, on either side, with much Avarmth ; but the English arrows were found irresistible ; the enemy was driven back, as the Scymerons exulted over their defeat in shouts and war-songs of victory. The inhabitants of the town were throAvn into a state of the utmost consternation ; to appease which XXVIII.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 207 Drake, with a generosity like that Avhich animated the Avarlike in times of ancient chivalry, not only commanded his men to spare all who offered no re sistance, and to respect the sanctity of the churches, where no spoil was to be committed, but Avent him self and quieted the fears of the principal ladies, by an assurance that all of their sex he considered that night as under his own especial protection. So much did this union of courage and gentleness work on the minds of the conquered, different as it was fi-om the unsparing teraper of the Spanish con querors, that they looked on Drake as soraething more than human ; and a feeling of confidence blended itself with that of awe, which his hardihood and extraordinary success CA'ery where inspired. Though Drake spared the lives and respected the feeUngs of his enemies, he shoAved in this exploit no raercy to their purses. The spoils, hoAvever, here gained he dirided araongst his raen and the negroes, refusing all share of thera hiraself, and still looking to the treasures of the King of Spain for his own reprisals of victory; a prospect which neither toU nor disappointment could induce him to forego. But the safety of his crew Avas now the first object ; and he felt hoAv necessary it was that no delay should take place in his return to the ships. Still the march overland to the coast Avas long and weari some ; and one that required all his energies to render it other than a source of murmuring and peril to his people. In this emergency he took the wisest means to support their spirits, by shoAving in his own person how easily hardships may be borne where there is courage to meet and to endure them. In moments where all depended on sudden and ex- 208 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. traordinary exertions, Ave have seen that Drake could use even reproaches to stimulate their endeaA'Ours ; but Avhere the operations that lead to success were of a less exciting and more tedious nature, and required patience to bring about their issue, Drake .used kindness and encouragement in his exhortations, shared all their toils, and even the pain of hunger Avith them, vvhen Avant of food reduced them to ne cessity and vA'eakness. On their arrival Avithin a fcAV leagues of the ships, they found on the banks of the river Tortugas one of those towns consisting of huts thatched with the branches of the palmetto, that had been built during thefr absence by the Scymerons. Here the weary reposed ; and Drake, anxious to afford them reUef, sent forward his token by a negro to the master of his own pinnace, vrith orders that he should sail her up to him Avith all speed. The master received the token — a gold tooth-pick case — with a doubtful mind ; for the captain had charged hira to consider none as authentic unless his own handwriting also bore witness to its validity. The negro, hoAvever, soon satisfied his doubts by telUng hira that the English leader had scratched something on the token with the blade of a knife ; and on more closely examining it, he soon perceived the Avords, ' By me, Francis Drake,' The pinnace was iraraediately sent forAvard, and all the company finally uniting on the 23rd day of February, Drake halloAved it by appoint ing it as a day of solemn thanksgiving to Almighty God, Avho, after all their hardships, had thus brought thera in safety together. Soon after this Drake, being on board his pinnace, the Minion, sailed to the Cabezas, in order to seize XXVIII.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 209 the treasure that he had learnt fi-ora the Scymerons Avas to be transported from Veragua to the Spanish vessels at Nombre de Dios. At Cabezas he cap tured a ship, and John Oxenham, in the Bear, also took another, stored, not Avith gold, but with good fat hens, hogs, and maize, or Indian corn. The last prize so Avell pleased the captain, that he determined to sail in her, and attack the Spanish fleet at Nombre de Dios. He Avas soon after met by a Frenchman, Avhose commander, named Tetu, begged he might be permitted to join Drake both in the expedition and the spoils that were Ukely to accrue from it. They set sail in company together in the frigate and two of the pinnaces, for the Cabezas, Avhere they left the first-mentioned vessel, finding she was too large to pass the shallows. Proceeding for Rio Francisco, they landed, and ordered the pinnaces to return to the same spot in four or five days to receive them. Drake then set out on his inland expedition, accom panied by a certain number of his men, his French aUies, and the Scymerons. Their way Avas through thick woods, and after a fatiguing journey, as they arrived Avithin little more than a mile of Nombre de Dios, they could hear persons at work in the harbour ; the hour being no interruption to labour, since indeed in those Avarm latitudes more Avork is effected in the night than in the day. They soon observed the mules and their drivers advancing from Panama; and at that sight every man thought of nothing but the riches he Avas now to call his own : riches indeed, could his desires have been as certainly satisfied as they Avere formed ; for the drove consisted of more than one hundred mules, each laden Avith three hundred pounds' Avcight 210 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. in bars of silver. The soldiers Avho guarded the treasure were easily overcome; but Captain Tetu was Avounded in the battle. Yet now the treasure was won it could not be secured, for the rictorious possessors of the prize Avere compelled, on account of its weight, to conceal by far the greater part of it in holes under the earth, or beneath shallow Avaters. For the present they resolved to return by the Avay they had come ; and once more retraced their steps through the woods, where the French officer was obliged to stay, finding himself disabled by his wounds frora going onward. Here sorae of his men remained with him, and one Avas lost or missing in the Avoods. Drake and his company travelled forward to meet the pinnaces ; but on arriving at the appointed place soon found cause for astonishment and dismay. No pinnaces Avere to be seen, but in their stead seven Spanish ships floating in the distance ! At the sight of these not a doubt remained on their minds but that the Spaniards had received sorae infor mation of their plan on Nombre de Dios, and these ships had been sent forth to intercept their return Arith the treasure. The pinnaces they concluded had been taken, and the torture used, to learn from the crew where the frigate and the ship had been left, in order that they might next surprise and capture them. Thus did the foUoAvers of Drake, as they now stood on a hostile shore from Avhich there was no escape, look on the Spanish ships riding before thefr riew, and gave themselves up for lost. Never, in any the most trying moments of his life, was the firmness, the presence of mind, or the hardy XXVIII.] LIFE OF DRAKE, 211 enterprise of Drake more conspicuous than in this scene of apparent hopeless disaster. By a train of the clearest arguments (for he had that greatness in his courage Avhich preserves the mind calm, and free from all embarrassment in peril, so that reason loses nothing of her power), he convinced them that it was morally impossible the pinnaces could be taken, the men tortured and examined, and the Spanish ships sent forth to secure the English frigate, in the short space of time that had inter vened since they had parted on that very shore from their shipmates; so that it Avas still possible they might reach the vessel before their enemies could become her master. The men, for the moment, Avere silenced by these arguments; j'et nothing but the resources of a mind like Drake's could have instantaneously suggested the means of attempting the very possibility he had so strongly asserted. To a less fertUe genius, the thing must have appeared hopeless under any view in which it Avas considered — they could not travel overland toAvards that part of the coast where the frigate had been left, for barrier mountains and impenetrable woods lay betAveen them and it. They could not pass deep rivers or even venture on tur bulent seas, for they had no boat; and to return towards Nombre de Dios, AvhUst the country alarmed woiUd be in arms against them, must lead to certain death. Yet Drake, whilst his people saw nothing but these erils and their OAvn despair, observed, vrith a glance of the eye, the trees that were slowly and idly floating down the river, borne along with the current towards the shore ; and in these he saw deUverance. 212 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. With a countenance enlivened by the most con fident and cheerful expression, he asked " Who would accompany him to sea, on the raft he was about to form Avith those timbers?" Nothing is more decisive in its eff'ect than the hope, how ever slight, that suddenly visits despair. The most animated feelings noAV succeeded to the list- lessness of despondence, and all hands and hearts Avere eager to help their gallant captain in the con struction of his raft, that Avas to bear him and a foAV of his most determined followers on this perilous attempt. The raft was quickly formed; a rudder contrived to steer it ; and, ingenious in expedients, an old biscuit-sack was converted into a sail, fitted to the light body of a small tree by Avay of mast. Drake now chose three of his most expert and re solute followers ; and giving those he left on the shore the firmest assurance, that, if he surviA'ed, he Avould return as their deliverer from peril, he prayed God to calm the seas, so that his raft might ride in safety, and straightway embarked himself and his last hope on this precarious stay. For six hours, such was the danger of their situ ation, the sea continually Avashed oA'er them ; and Avhilst in the hollow of tlie Avave, they were fre quently up to the chest in Avater ; long they could not have escaped death, which, on any sudden turn of the Arind upsetting the raft, must have been in evitable, had not Providence interfered to save them. The strength of all means, employed in extraordinary circumstances, depends not on man's capacity Lut on the power of the Almighty. With Him the wing of the raven became as strong and as swift as that of the eagle, to do His behests in the XXVIII.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 213 preservation of a prophet : OA'en so Avas the fragile raft of Drake, by God's Avatchful providence, ren dered as much a vessel of safety, as if it had been formed from the oaks of England, shaped and fit ted vrith the most consummate art, and armed with the thunders of her artillery and the strength of her bravest sons. The pinnaces — those very pinnaces considered as lost to the enemy — appeared in sight ; but forced by the wind, that noAV rose toAvards night-fall, to a contrary course, they ran for shelter behind a projecting point of land — there Drake ran his raft ashore also, and praising God Avho had thus conducted hira in safety through the stormy waters, he rejoined his vessels, and soon after received his whole company, with such part of the treasure as they had been able to bear off, though it Avas incon siderable when compared with what Avas left behind. And noAV the generosity of Drake's character was fuUy displayed ; for so little selfish were his views, that he made an equal dirision of the spoil taken from his enemies, between his own people and the French allies; Monsieur Tetu having happily es caped death, and regained his vessel. To Pedro, the chief of the Scymerons, he gave, as a reward for his faithful serrices, a SAVord set Avith diamonds, that the negro greatly desired to possess, but feared to ask on account of its exceeding value. Pedro, de lighted Avith this act of munificence, which he de clared would (by presenting it to his own king) enable him to obtain the highest rank and honours, insisted on presenting the captain with some bars that he had secured in the late exploit ; but Drake, though he at length yielded to his importunity, refused to appropriate them to himself, but threw 214 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. them into the common stock, saying, "that where aU had shared the danger, there likewise should aU in justice share the benefit." Thus have Ave the strongest evidence, that though many of the en rious amongst the courtiers of his own time charged Drake's enterprises with the guilt of piracy, a mean spirit of avarice could not have been the motive which prompted him to undertakings so replete Avith toil and danger ; indeed, on all occasions, he Avas more mindful of the interests of his followers than of his OAvn. Returning home, after so raany perils, he once more landed on the shores of his native Devon, on the 9th of August, 1573 : it Avas on a Sunday, and though during the tirae of divine service, such was the desire ofthe people of Plymouth to see the man Avho had done so much honour to their county, that most of them ran out of the churches to meet him Arith the warmest congratulations on his way fi-om the harbour. Drake's return to England was never contem plated by a mind so active as his as a final repose from his toUs ; on the contrary, it Avas in order to mature his plans, and to gather strength to execute them, that he noAV sought the countenance of his friends, that their interest at court might obtain for him a full commission from the queen, so that he might sail an English ship in those unknown seas, whose distant view from the heights, to which he had been conducted by the Scymerons, inspired that prayer to the Almighty wherein he begged a blessing to accomplish his designs. Many causes, however, operated to retard his undertaking; for, Uke Columbus, he found princes sceptical, and envy XXVIII.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 215 rife. Such, indeed, Avas the fame he had already acquired, that many Avere more disposed to pluck away than to add to his laurels ; and those whose natural dullness and coldness of feeling rendered them dead to all the high hopes and vigorous imagi nations of the brave and the great, had neither the faculty nor the disposition to comprehend his de signs, and treated them, therefore, vrith indifference or ridicule. So many obstacles might retard but could not conquer the genius of Drake ; a genius that was far beyond that sort of talent Avhich plays brilliantly on the surface of things, Uke a sunbeam on the waters, but has neither endurance nor vital heat in itself. Drake knew well what Avere his own capabilities ; and if the world gave him present credit for them or not was to him a matter of indifference ; since no man ever more eminently possessed that wisdom which is content to work by patience ; to sow the seed in the certainty that, sooner or later, the harvest will ap pear, without standing to watch its growth, with an fr-ritable spirit, if the blade is slow in rising or in bursting into light. Great must have been the obstacles he had to contend with at home, since it was not till the faU of the year 1577 that he once more quitted the shores of England on that expedition which has given him a fame that wiU live as long as the globe he encircled shall itself endure. Though this enter prise was undertaken with the queen's sanction, it does not appear she took any share of the expense of the outfit ; and here we find another instance of Drake valuing his gold and silver only as it served 216 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. him to carry forward his great and immediate plans ; for the ships, five in number, were equipped at his cost, assisted by the other private adventurers who joined in the design. These equipments were made Avith an eye to the dignity of the nation which our great naval captain Avas to represent in his own person in far and distant lands. He took Arith him, therefore, costly furniture, rich apparel, a princely service of plate, and a band of the most skilful musicians. The seas once more received him ; but as if he Avere ncA'er to find rest on their bosom, so fearful Avas the storra that presently arose, he Avas driven back on shore with considerable damage. Yet tho seas Drake treated as he did his envious adversaries, for he Avas neither repulsed by their opposition nor scared by thefr tumult, but ventured forth again in the hope of better fortune ; and this he soon found, for the winds became favourable, and his voyage for some time was as prosperous as he could desire. On the 27th of the same month they came in sight ofthe Isle of Mogador, on the coast of Bar bary, where, finding a convenient harbour for the purpose, Drake, now admfral of the fleet, erected one pinnace, out of several he had ready prepared in the ships. Here they were observed by the Moors who inhabited the country, and for some days a fi-iendly intercourse was held between them and the English, Avhich Avas at length, however, broken by the infidels; for one of the crew, seeing the Moors raaking signs, leapt on shore alone: he was in stantly made prisoner, and carried up the country ; when it appeared he had been seized, from some XXVIn.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 217 apprehension that Drake Avas in command of cer tain Portuguese A'essels, and had come thither to observe the coast previous to an invasion. This prisoner Avas afterwards released ; and the admiral sufficiently satisfied hiraself in the visit he paid to the coast, by taldng many Spanish vessels. They next touched at Cape Blanc, where the inhabitants came forward to trafl[ic for fresh Avater, being in great need of it at that moment on account of the dryness of the season. Drake generously relieved their distresses, and would take nothing they offered in return. They next proceeded to Mayo, one of the Cape de Verd islands, where they found the people so extremely shy of thera, that they ran aAvay as the English approached, and would neither traffic with, nor corae near them. But the country abounding Avith figs, grapes, hens, &c., they failed not to obtain plentiful supplies for the ships. Soon after they passed St. Jago, an island in which the Portuguese had gained a footing; and where they had treated the natives with so much cruelty, that many Avere driven into the most mountainous and rocky parts to seek shelter from their oppressors. Quitting these islands, the fleet droAv near the line, Avhere calms and tempests for some tirae re tarded their progress. Soon after they neared the coast of the Brazils. The inhabitants, obserring the ships from the shore, comraenced their accus tomed raagical rites, for the purpose of raising such a storm as would prevent their landing, and sink them into the depths of the sea. The bar barians made great fires, and offered sacrifices to the spirit of the tempest; who, on this occasion, VOL. II. L 218 LIFE OF DRAKE. [LET. did not accept them, for the Arinds slept, and the seas continued unruffled, so that no mischief ensued. On the 7th of April, however, Arithout any invo cation, the lightning, thunder and rain, caused so fearful a storm, that for some time Drake appre hended he had lost in it the ship called the Chris topher;, but on the llth she joined the fleet again, and the place where the reunion of the vessels was effected he named Cape Joy, in remembrance of that deliverance. To trace the various islands and lands on which the Admiral touched during this adventurous voyage, with some account, however brief, of the inhabitants and natural productions of each, would, instead of a slight notice, require a lengthened chapter. And as the whole of this part of , his history may be found so fully detailed in the voyages of the time, it would be presumptuous to venture upon the subject after them. At length Drake entered the river Plate; but there so violent was the tempest which assaUed him, that the destruction, of the whole fleet seemed in evitable. In this extremity, anxious to preserve the life of the Admiral, Captain Thomas, of the EUza beth, whose vessel was the lightest, prevailed with him to go on board that ship, and running her into the bay dropped anchor, and here she reraained tiU after the storm. Not finding the harbour so con venient as they expected, on the 15th of May they left it for another, and, Drake sent Captain Winter southward, to look after those ships still missing, and saUed hiraself northward ; when meeting fortu nately with one vessel, he bore it company to the rest of the fleet; but no other could be found. XXVIII.] LIFE OP DRAKE. 219 And here, for the present, we must leave him, since this letter having extended beyond the usual limits, obUges me to conclude, though somewhat abruptly, with the assurance that I am, my dear Sir, Ever most respectfully and faithfuUy yours, Anna E. Bray. 1.2 220 LETTER XXIX. TO ROBERT SOUTHEY, ESQ. Contents. — Drake and his followers on shore at an island near the main land— Descried by the natives — ^They traffic — Honours paid to Drake by the savages — Token of friendship given by one of them Drake sets sail towards the South Seas — Goes in search of ves sels that are missing ; finds them — Sails for Port Julian — Indians seera disposed to be friendly — Sportive competition with Oliver the gunner — Fatal consequences and aflfray — Drake awes the natives by the discharge of a gun — Transaction with Thomas Doughtie ; slightly wounded — Drake continues his course along the shores of Peru — Goes to Mucho — Quarrels with inhabitants; general assault ; Drake receives a wound from an arrow in the eye — Drops anchor in Philipps' Bay — Receives a friendly Indian, who offers to become guide — Captures a Spanish vessel laden with wines — Fla grant instance of Spanish brutality — Enters the harbour of Cippo — ^The Spaniards rush out upon the crew ; they retire, save one, to the boats — Act of cruelty — The Admiral touches at Tarapaca ; finds a Spaniard sleeping ; takes from him a burthen of silver — Sail thence — Arrival at Lima — Steer into the harbour — No resist ance — Name of Drake formidable — His successes — Drake resolves on the discovery of a passage from the South Sea to the Atlantic — Steers to the isle of Caines to repair the ship — Good fortune — Se vere sufferings from change of climate — Drake encourages his men — One of the barbarians ventures in his canoe near the ship — Pronounces an oration — The crew land — The natives consider Drake and his followers to be more than human ; would sacrifice to thera as gods — Drake endeavours to prevent them — He prays and sings hymns with his crew — Powerful impression made by them on the natives — The English stand prepared in case of trea chery — High honours paid by the chieftains to the Admiral ; place on him the insignia of Hiebob — Friendly feelings of the natives and English — The Admiral at length leaves their shores — Steers for the Moluccas — Touches at Terranata, where he is received by the King, styled by Fuller " a true pagan gentleman " — Account of the King, his counsellors, and courtiers — Visit of the Chinese XXIX.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 221 nobleman — His history — Inquiries concerning the adventures of Drake ; he relates thera — The Admiral bent on a homeward voyage — Sails to the Celebes — January 9th, 1580, Drake and his crew in their greatest danger ; they run on a rock — Drake causes his crew to receive the sacrament aud prepare for death — Providential es cape when at their utmost peril — Near the Cape of Good Hope^ Return to England — Elizabeth dines on board his ship the Peli can ; she knights him — Jealousy of Sir Bernard Drake — Quarrel with Sir Francis about his arms — The courtiers jealous of Drake — The Queen appoints Drake, Forbisher, and Hawkins in com mand — Drake takes the towns of St. Jago, St. Domingo, Cartha gena, and St. Augustine, in Florida, from the Spaniards — Sends a flag of truce to St. Domingo by a negro boy — The boy murdered— Drake requires justice of his murderer ; at length obtains it— - 1588, Spanish Armada — Drake's last voyage, 1595 — Sails to the AVest Indies — Hawkins dies — Drake's friend, Brute Browne, killed by the Spaniards — ^The Admiral swears to avenge his death — Ful fils his purposes — Captures and burns two Spanish ships — Storms and burns Norabre de Dios — Dies at sea January 9th, 1597 — Bu ried iu the ocean— His character and genius. Vicarage, Tavistock, November lith, 1832. My DEAR Sir, Soon after the events lately mentioned, Drake and his followers, Avhilst going on shore at an island near the main land, Avere descried by the barbarians of the country, who made signs to them as if they Avere disposed for friendly traffic. On seeing this, the Admiral sent forward a boat Avith many toys and knives as presents, in the hope to concUiate them. Two of them advanced for a short space, but would not venture near the English, who, in consequence of this shyness, were obliged to suspend their gifts to a long pole which they fixed in the earth, and immediately after retired. The. savages soon availed themselves of such bounty^ and, on their part, left on the pole a plume of 222 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. feathers and a carved bone, as gifts of honour from their king. Drake, pleased to find them thus amicably dis posed, ventured to draw nigh, upon which the natives drew up in a Une on a hill, and bowing to those quarters of the heavens whence arose the sun and moon, they thus let the strangers know they ¦were received in peace. The accounts given, in the voyages of Drake, of the customs of these Indians, are replete with interest, but too numerous to be here stated in detaU. They practised a more noble kind of idolatry than that of worshipping blocks of wood or stone, as they believed, fi-om the splendour of their aspect, that the planets were gods that had power to oven-ule the destinies of men. Haring no canoes, they could never quit their islands to reach so far as the main land, Avhich, in this part at least, was uninhabited by man; for, on Drake saiUng thither, the birds (unaccustomed to the sight of human beings, and never haring known thefr snares) did not fly from but came to him, even as the feathered race had done to Adam in Para dise. The poor Indians of the islands he found as docile as the birds, and almost as simple in thefr habits : they principally lived on the raw flesh of the seal, not using fire in the preparation of their food. Their notions of friendship and affection were of the strongest kind, and this Drake expe rienced when on giring a cap to one of the natives, he Avas so transported Avith the generosity of the Ad miral that, to express his sense of the favour, he thrust his arroAv into his oavu leg, and let the blood run on the earth in token of fidelity. At length Drake set saU towards the South Sea, XXIX.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 223 and soon after dropped anchor in a convenient bay in order to break up the Christopher. He now also became anxious to determine in what manner it would be most desirable to act respecting the Portuguese prize, Avhich he had lost sight of in the great storm, as he could not endure the idea of proceeding and leaAing his fellow voyagers, who were in her, exposed to so many dangers alone. After off'ering up prayers to Almighty God, that he Avould send a blessing on his endeavour, he set sail in search of the vessel, and on the very next day had the happiness to meet Arith his companions near Port Julian. Drake, in order to refresh his associates, steered into this port, and Avent on shore with some of them to seek fresh water. There was he addressed by tAvo of the people, a race sufficiently formidable in manners and appearance, and of a character alike treacherous and cruel. The Indians Avho had accosted Drake seeraed disposed to be fi-iendly with him, and even entered into a sportive competition AA'ith OUver the gunner, in shooting their arroAvs, though theirs did not reach so far as the shafts sent from an English bow. Whilst they Avere thus amusing themselves another Indian joined them, who seemed less pleased with the strangers than Avere his companions, to whom he addressed his discourse Arith much vehemence, in his OAvn tongue. One of Drake's men at this mo ment attempting to give the angry native a speci men of his skill with the bow, unfortunately broke his bow-string. The Indians immediately fancied he must be disarmed by the accident, and, artfully watching the retreat of the strangers to their boat, discharged their arroAvs upon them, and wounded 224 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET, the man who had broken the string. He endea voured to refit the bow Avith another, but received a second wound in the breast. The gunner Oliver instantly presented his matchlock, but it failed to give fire, and the natives, encouraged by these disasters on the part of the English, discharged upon them a second flight, killed poor Oliver, Avounded many, and had not Drake acted Avith his accustomed calmness and intrepidity, it is probable every man Avould have been cut off. But he di rected them to cover their bodies in their retreat Avith the targets they carried for defence ; to shift perpetually their position so as to avoid the arrows, and to stop, pick up, and destroy them as they fell. Drake also seized the gun, which had so unfortu nately hung fire in the hands of Oliver, and aiming at the treacherous Indian Avho had been his death, Avounded that savage mortally on the spot. This circumstance effectually changed the fortune of the combat ; for the barbarians, whose numbers had been fearfully increasing, retreated in terror and amazement to their Avoods, Avhilst Drake Avithdrew his men from the scene of action. In a few days, howcA'er, he had to perform the melancholy duty of attending the burial of his friend Winter, and some of his people Avho died of their Avounds. He re mained in this part of the Avorld, Avithout receiving further molestation, nearly two months longer, the natives having been literally awed into submission by the discharge of a gun. I pass in silence the remarkable transaction con cerning Thoraas Doughtie, Avhich took place on board Drake's ship in this obscure quarter of the globe. My reason for doing so is, that I find it XXIX.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 225 impossible to give it so as to make it intelligible in any abridged account, replete as the whole trans action is with mystery and the most contradictory circumstances. In its present state it is so en veloped in obscurity that it defied even the critical examination of Johnson, Avho declares " it is difficult to form any judgment upon it." But thus much surely may be said vA'ith perfect impartiality, that Avhere there is such a Avant of clear intelligence, Ave are entitled, in a great measure, to rest our opinion on the general character of Drake, his known sense- of religious duty, and his humanity to his people. Is it therefore likely that a commander governed by principles such as these would have executed Tho mas Doughtie (whatever might have been his crimes), had they been of a nature to adrait his showing raercy ? Possibly, also, in such an obscure part of the globe, Avhere the lives of all depended on discipline and obedience, it might really have been more merciful to the many to punish one, for the sake of example, than by an ill-timed lenity to spare him, and thus remove the salutary fear of the worst consequences, should any attempt to mutiny be meditated in the ships. After a variety of perilous adventures amongst the savages, on Avhose shores he occasionally landed^ Drake at length entered the South Sea, that vast expanse of ocean on which no vessel bearing the- British flag had hitherto sailed; an achievement reserved for him, the happy success of which had been the great object of his ambition. But he was again destined to suffer another and severe trial; for so fearful a tempest arose that the destruction of the whole fleet appeared inevitable. During the L 3 226 LIFE OF DRAKE. [LET. space of fifty-two days the ships were incessantly driven and tossed (Arithout the power to spread a sail) from one quarter of the ocean to another, not knowing in which they should at last find a watery grave. Here they lost company with the EUzabeth, and that vessel did not afterwards rejoin them, though fortunately escaping Avreck she found her way in safety to England. For some time after the riolence of the tempest had abated, Drake steered his ship frora island to island in search of fi-esh water ; tUl on the 30th of of October he steered for the rendezvous of his fleet. Thence, laden with a store of prorisions, he continued his com-se along the shores of Peru ; but not finding his vessels as he expected, nor any harbourage that proraised safety, he made no stay until he reached Mucho, an island thronged by such of the Indians as, haring suffered every kind of cruelty under the Spanish yoke, had fled thither from the continent for refuge. The savages appearing Arilling to enter tain the strangers in friendly traffic, on the next day they ventured on shore for water; but they soon found how little sincerity there had been in thefr apparent cordiality; for tAvo of the seamen going forAvard Avith the water vessels were immediately put to death. This was the signal for a general assault, and some hundreds of the barbarians, having crouched behind the surrounding rocks in order to conceal their purpose, in a raoment started up, discharged their arrows on the crew that had not yet quitted the boat, and wounded every man on board. The sea ran in such tumultuous waves, that to return to the ship was almost as hazardous as it XXIX.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 227 would have been to land on the shore. Drake re ceived a wound frora one ofthe arrows which pierced nearly to the brain, and another struck him under the eye. But notwithstanding- the danger and the absence of the surgeon, Avho was in one of the parted ships, by the mercy of Providence his life and the Uves of his wounded followers were preserved ; a cir cumstance little less than miraculous, and evidently showing that when those ordinary raeans by Avhich men are both permitted and enjoined to heal the injuries of the body fail, the arm of God is not short ened, and that he can extend it towards his afflicted creatures in the most marked and raerciful manner. Shortly after Drake dropped anchor in Philipps' Bay, where, receiving an Indian on board, of a better nature than those of Mucho, he so far won upon him by his kindness, that the stranger offered to become his pilot to a spot where aU his wants should be supplied. Here he succeeded also in the capture of a Spanish vessel richly laden vrith Arines, stores, jewels, and gold. The Indian pilot was rewarded and returned safe to his people, having, during the time he was with Drake, exhibited that mild and docile temper, so natural to his race before the Spaniards hardened their hearts and roused their passions by the cruelty and treachery with which they treated them in order to make them discover to their conquerors those mines of gold where they were destined to labour like slaves. A flagrant instance of Spanish brutality that oc curred shortly after, acted poAverfuUy on the mind of Drake, and made him feel, if possible, a yet more determined enmity against the whole nation. About the end of Deceraber, he entered the harbour of 228 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. Cippo, where these men held possession of the toAvn, and of many Indians who were no better than cap tives in their service. Observing the English land on the coast they rushed out in an overwhelraing body, accorapanied by their naked slaves, each of the latter arraed with arrows formed of green wood ; since such Avas their dread of the Indian captives, that they allowed them no Aveapons but what should be cut for some immediate scrA'ice ; disarming and maltreating thera Avhen the labours of the day were at an end. Finding opposition against such nurabers would be madness, Drake and his men, saving one, retired hastily to the boats ; Avhen that unfortunate raan left behind Avas seized on the spot and shot by the Spaniards, who, hurrying Avith his body to a rock, Avhence the savage exultation of their victory might be seen, thej' cut off his head and hands, and tore out his heart in the face of his coun trymen, first insisting that the Indians should dis charge their arrows over the body, and thus disarm themselves. The next place at which the Admiral touched Avas Tarrapaca ; where, finding a Spaniard asleep, Avith many bars of silver, Aveighing about four thousand dollars, by his side, they relieved him of his burthen Arithout interrupting his repose, and left him to wonder, Avhen he should awake, by whom he had been deprived of a care that raore often breaks the slumber of the possessor than contributes to its security. Another Spaniard they met in their Avay was era ployed in driving certain Peruvian sheep, animals there used as beasts of burthen, laden vrith bars of silver. These they also relieved of their load, taking all the spoil with more than ordinary pleasure, as it XXIX.] life OF DRAKE. 229 Avas considered a lawful reprisal for the Spanish cruel ties they had so lately Avitnessed. The treasure was conveyed in safety to the ship. Sailing thence they came to Lima, where, groAvn confident and even daring by success, they steered directly into the harbour, and to their astonishraent met vrith no offer of resistance. But the narae of Drake Avas become as appalling as his own can non ; and the Spaniards, cruel to a feeble enemy, Avere dastardly before a brave one ; so that they now actually suffered the Admiral to take possession of one of their ships richly laden Avith gold, without the slightest attempt at defence ; and had he been as evil rainded as themselves, they would, with equal submission, have suffered hira to burn it. A second great prize Avas the Caca Fuego, where they took gold, jewels, and fourteen chests of ryals of plate, and such treasure that it was the work of some days to transfer it to the EngUsh ship. Content, even satiated Avith spoil, and despairing of finding the vessels from which they had parted corapany in the great storm, Drake now began to turn his thoughts homOAvard; but ere he sailed thither, he Avished to accomplish an object which would be of incalcu lable benefit to his country — the discovery of a passage from the South Sea to the Atlantic. To- prepare for this enterprise, it became necessary that the ship should undergo some repair, and receive a fresh supply of water. The Admiral steered accord ingly to a convenient bay in the island of Caines, and as good fortune at this time seeraed to raeet hira at every turn, here also they fell in with and cap tured a vessel laden with rich silks and stuffs. But an uninterrupted continuance of prosperity is 230 life OF DRAKE. [lET. seldom the lot of pubUc or of private men; and Drake and his crcAv were soon to feel a reverse which* was indeed calculated to give them a practical lesson of how Uttle worth are riches in the extremity of human distress ; that some power, greater than that of fortune, is alone worthy the trust of a Arise man, and should, therefore, be alone the object of his hopes. The first suffering they had to endure Avas a change of climate ; for, haring sailed about four teen hundred leagues, they found the cold so intense that the ropes of the ship became frozen, and it re qufred six men to perform the duties usually accom pUsbed by half the number. As they advanced, the vital heat of the sun seemed entirely to forsake them, and their hearts became cold and cheerless as their Umbs. A melancholy discouragement seized on all the crew, and in this torpid state they Avere in danger of sinking before the perils that beset them, vrithout a struggle to overcome such accumulated difficulties. But nothing could move the spirit of Drake to give way before circumstances, however adverse thefr nature; and blending the kindness of his generous disposition Arith the authority of his station, he re minded his people, in the most impressive manner, of the never-faUing proridenoe of God ; and with a cheerful voice and countenance encouraged them to labour so that they might deserve the assistance of a power without whose aid their labours would be vain. Onward they sailed, till at length they found a convenient harbour, and dropped anchor on the 17th of June, on an unknoAvm shore. Nothing could be more cheerless than the prospect before them. The land was barren, the trees leafless, and the XXIX.] life of drake. 231 natives a set of savages, who seemed to look on them with wonder and fear. One of these barbarians ventured in his canoe near the ship, and haring pronounced Avith solemn gestures an oration in his oavu tongue, which, of course, could not be understood, he presented the English Arith a croAvn of black feathers, and a basket made of rushes filled Arith herbs. It was here abso lutely necessary that the crew should land in order to stop a leak which the ship had sprung at sea. Experience had taught Drake not to depend on the peace-offerings of savages ; he caused, therefore, in the first instance, a fortification of stones to be raised on the shore; Arithin this he pitched the tents to accommodate his people. The work thus speedily accomplished, to a nation so wUd and ignorant as the poor savages in the comraon arts of Ufe, seemed Uttle less than miraculous ; and they now came down in crowds to worship the Admfral and his men, as if they had been gods. Drake, however, had too deep a sense of what was due to God to countenance this error ; probably also he might remember the conduct of Paul and Barnabas, who, when the Greeks would have sacrificed to them as Jupiter and Mercurius, rent thefr clothes, and ran in araong the people, crying " we are also men of Uke passions vrith you." Drake made them comprehend by signs and gestures that he would not receive thefr worship ; and causing them to throw aside their bows and arrows, gave them Unen and necessaries, shovring in what way these things would become useful. The savages, hoAvever, could not so easily be pre vailed Arith to consider the wonderful strangers as men of earthly mould like themselves. GratefiiUy 232 LIFE OF drake. [let. receiving the presents of the Admiral, they retired to some distance from the tents, where they set up their voices in loud and doleful shoutings; whilst the women, with frantic gestures, commenced those fearful rites so common Avith the ancient idolatrous nations : tearing their bodies and their cheeks tiU the blood ran down them, or dashing themselves against rocks aud stones in homage to the gods before their eyes, for gods they would persist in thinking the English must be, Avho had honoured their shores by coming down fi-om the clouds to set their feet upon them. Drake, shocked at such inhumanities, Avhich he had no poAver AvhoUy to prevent, coraraanded his own men to kneel down on the spot ; there with eyes and hands upraised, he caused them to pray aloud to the true God, in the hojje that these poor savages might be convinced, by the humility of the action, that there was a Power to bo worshipped high above the heavens, and that they should not, therefore, boAV doAvn to creatures Avho moved but on the earth. After this, Drake opened his bible*, read some chapters aloud to the crew, and closing the book desired them to join with him in singing a psahn. This scene, touching in itself, greatly charmed the savages ; and inspired the whole crew Avith feelings of the deepest reverence. Nor can we uoav reflect upon it without sharing their delight. The hardy seamen, Avho had spirits so bold to meet danger, to combat their enemies Arith undaunted courage, whom neither perils by land nor sea could raove, thus humbly acknowledging their entire dependence * Drake's hible is still carefully preserved at Buckland Abbey, a place about seven miles from Tavistock, XXIX.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 233 on God, and singing His praises with the voice that had so often mingled its rough sounds with those of the gale, Avas a spectacle calculated to affect all Avho were present, and no doubt Avith a merciful God the sacrifice of prayer and thanksgiving so heartily of fered, Avas not made in vain. Drake and his men having produced this poAverful impression on the natives, soon experienced its eff'ect. In a fcAV days, the king of the country an nounced his intention of coming to visit the Admiral. The English stood prepared in case of treachery; but soon found they had nothing to fear. A servant of state came before the royal savage, bearing his black AVOoden sceptre, decorated AA'ith a chain of bone, and two crowns of black feathers with a bundle of herbs like those solemnly presented to the Admiral. The king hiraself next appeared, attired in a rabbit-skin jacket, Avith a cap on his head, Avoven with the feathers of various birds, and decorated Avith ornaments carved in bone. His attendants brought in baskets, so beautifully and closely Avoven that they would contain Avater, fish and herbs ; these being nothing less than sacred offerings for the strangers. The sceptre-bearer made a speech Avhich nobody could understand ; and even as it is in many instances of speech-making in our OAvn days, it was deemed not less excellent on that account. The speech concluded, the orator, king, and all the re tinue of royalty, commenced dancing and singing with solemn deUght ; so that it was quite evident to the Euglish, who understood action much better than words, that nothing but honours and kindness Avere intended towards them and their commander. These high ceremonies finished Avith the coronation 234 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. of the Admfr-al, Avho, with the consent of the legiti mate king and of all his people, Avas declared, Arith the honours of feathers, bone chains, rabbit-skin jacket, and all other insignia of royalty, to he Hiebob of the nation, in one universal shout. Drake, how- CA'er, did not choose to consider himself a king abroad, whUst he had a queen at home; and so receiring the wooden sceptre of Hiebob in the name of Elizabeth, he took nothing from her new domain but a stock of such prorisions as he could get ; and expressed his hopes, in return for the generosity vrith which these were supplied, that so harmless and con fiding a people might indeed hereafter feel the blessing of becoming the subjects of Elizabeth, by being made members of the true church. The utmost good avUI and regard subsisted be tween the English and the natives, though it Avas vrith extreme difficulty the former could prevail Arith them to desist fi-om thefr barbarous custom of tear ing their flesh in token of reverence and duty. Drake now ventured to inspect the interior of the country, in company Arith the king ; and, to his surprise, found it to be far better than he had even imagined it possible to be. It was very fruitful, abounding vrith deer and rabbits of so extraordinary a kind that their furs might very well be considered as a dress fit for the majesty of the land. It Avas with extreme regret that these friendly natives parted from thefr neAV masters, whose kindness and gentle rule had inspired them Avith a warmth of attachment seldom equalled in cirilized countries, and stUl more rare in those where civiUzation is unknown. The Admiral at length steered his course for the Moluccas, and in sixty-seven days came Arithin sight XXIX.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 235 of land. On the 30th of Septeraber, he neared sorae islands, where he soon met Arith a very different reception fi-om that he had so lately experienced. Not liking the natives, he did not tarry longer than necessity required; but continuing his course, on the third of November he touched at Terrenata, Avhere he Avas received by the king, whom Fuller calls "a true pagan gentleman." This king appeared dressed in state ; he was of a noble person, of a mild, commanding countenance, and spoke with gentleness to all around him. He was attended by a number of old men with flowing beards, attfred in white dresses ; these acted as his counsellors, and had that vene rable and grave appearance which inspires a feeUng of reverence due alike to wisdom and to years. This "true pagan gentleman" welcomed Drake vrith every mark of honour ; and as a proof of the good opinion he entertained concerning him, he told the Admiral that, " they were both of one reUgion, since neither of them worshipped stocks or stones as did the Portuguese." Drake was prevailed with to visit him in his castle, where he found three score old men, Avho attended upon the king as his regular council of state ; one of these performed the part of interpreter, a necessary office in a place where much of the accumulated wealth of the sovereign depended on his commerce vrith foreigners. Here Drake ob* served everything was magnificent ; cloth of gold, jewels, and riches, dazzled his eyes at every turn; and the very fan which the chief slave held in his hand appeared set with diamonds and sapphfres. The castle had been erected by the Portuguese whUst they were masters of the town, though they did not long hold it in possession ; for so great had 236 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. been their tyranny, that the natives rose and drove them out. At the court of this prince the Admiral met Avith an adventure too remarkable to be passed in sUence. It was a visit from a Chinese nobleman, Avho having seen him with the king, came on board his vessel shortly after attended by an interpreter. The Chinese, before making known the object of his visit, begged to inform Drake of the circumstances of his history Avhich had occasioned his quitting the " Celestial Empire" to Avander forth in so remote a quarter of the earth. He was a native of China ; had been accused of a capital offence, of which he knoAV himself to be innocent ; but not having suf ficient proof of his innocence to satisfy the jealous court of his own country, he begged the emperor to banish instead of putting him on his trial, which Would have been the same thing as sentencing- him to death ; and this exile he proposed should continue till such time as, by travelling abroad, he might be enabled, by Divine assistance, to prove his innocence in bringing back to China some information of such an extraordinary nature, that it could not fail to be honourable and useful to the empire. His terms were granted, and Avith this object in A'iew, for three long years had the Chinese nobleman wandered, Uke other travellers, in search of the Avonderful in various quarters of the world ; and not till he had met with Drake did he see any likelihood of satis fying the expectations of his imperial master. He now, therefore, told Drake, would he but raake him acquainted with his adventures, the relation of them would aff'ord such a store for his memory, that he could not fail, on imparting it at court, to procure a full pardon from the greatest emperor on the face XXIX.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 237 of the globe. Drake gladly complied with this re quest, and, assisted by the interpreter, told all the "import of his travel's history" to the delighted exile; whose gratitude was so warm at hearing such wonders that, as the only adequate return he could make to the narrator of thera, he offered to become his guide, and to secure him an honourable recep tion at the high court of the Celestial Empire itself, would he but steer his course that Avay. Drake's mind, however, Avas bent on a homeward voyage ; so learing his history to be recorded by the Chinese, after the manner of his country (and no doubt a curious work it must have been), he bade him adieu; and after touching at more than one island, sailed to the Celebes, where a contrary Avind impeded his course, and he became entangled by the numerous shaUows that Avere found amongst the contiguous islands. Here they beat about till the 9th day of January, 1580, when, in the midst of smooth seas, a favourable gale, and in the fiill con fidence they had at last attained a free passage for then- bark, Drake and his crew in an instant found themselves in more imminent danger than they had encountered during all the various trials of thefr adventurous career; for, Avhilst sailing without even a suspicion of danger, the ship struck on a shoal Avith such force that all human aid was vain. Drake, Avho never quailed whilst there Avas a chance left that, by the boldness of his example and the manly exertion of his authority, some relief might be obtained, noAV saAv no hope but with God, to Avhom he looked, in this instance, more for eternal than present mercy on himself and his people. Death, and that immediate, was before their eyes. 238 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. Determined, hoAvever hopeless, to use every eff'ort, he caused the pumps to be pUed, and the vessel Avas found fi-ee from any leak. His next thought Avas, if possible, to discover if there might not be some spot where they might moor the boat, and thence drag the ship into deep water. In this emergency Drake would trust no one Arith the soundings but himself. He threw the Une that was to become the hope of life, or the certainty of death, Arith a firm hand — but so deep were the waters that no anchorage could be found even close to the ship, and it now appeared that the rock on which she had struck started per pendicularly from the sea. Drake's hopes were gone, for well did he know it needed but the sUghtest breath of Avind to lift the keel of the vessel, Avhen one blow more must be the last. This discovery of a fathomless deep that Avould have plunged his men into despair, Drake did not immediately make known to them ; he paused for a moment's reflection ; but found no comfort in his oavu bosom, since escape from so many perils seemed impossible. In a little whUe the ship would be a Avreck> if the men at tempted to reach the land in thefr boat they would be swamped, or, did they gain it, a worse fate Avould be thefrs ; they Avould be murdered by the savages, for a more fierce and cruel race than those Avho inhabited the surrounding shores was no where to be found. Wishing his people, therefore, to meet death as it became brave and Christian men, Drake caUed them around him, and with that impressive solemnity of feeling which his deep sense of religion never failed to inspfre, he commanded the sacrament to be admi nistered to all, and that aU should on thefr bended XXIX.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 239 knees humbly and devoutly join in one coramon prayer for deliverance. This done, and strength ened by a brief though hearty repentance towards God, he once more earnestly enjoined them to labour, that by so doing they might speedily lighten the ship. Six pieces of ordnance were first thrown overboard; bars of gold and sUver, those riches for which they had toiled and bled, Avent next to enrich the caves and treasure-houses of the boundless deep. This labour ended,, there was no more to do but wait in patience for that moment when the present aAvful suspense should end in death. But now that every human eff'ort was unavaiUng, when man had done his Uttle aU, and his prayers had come up to the throne of mercy, God showed himself "raighty to save ;" as if he had audibly said to every ear — as the event proved he did to every heart — " Stand by, and see the salvation of the Lord ;" for scarcely had thefr last hope deserted thera, when the wind (which had hitherto blown so strongly against the side of the vessel, as she leaned towards the sea, that it held her upright against the rock) suddenly dropped; and the tide being then low, she reeled — in another moment she was in deep water, and cleared from that perUous rock which must have dashed her in pieces : Drake and his crew had passed from the certainty of death, to life and hope again. How few, as they did, have tasted the cup of bitter ness, thus suddenly changed to one of blessing and of joy ! Yet scarcely even then could they trust it. So deep was the impression of this escape from death on all the crew, that for some time they dared not venture to hoist a sail, but let the vessel creep along, as it were, amidst the shoals and 240 LIFE OF DRAKE. [LET. shallows vrith a degree of fear that kept them con stantly on the watch. After mentioning an event so interesting as this, I shall not dwell on those of minor import, which occurred at the several islands Avhere the Admiral touched during the remainder of his A'oyage. At length he advanced towards the Cape of Good Hope; on the 15th of August, passed the tropic, and on the 26th of September, arrived once more at Plymouth ; Avhere he found, by the variation of the several cli mates through which he had saUed, that he had lost one day in his reckoning, having in all been absent from England two years, ten months, and a fsAV days. Drake, notAvithstanding the wealth he had lost by throAving it into the sea, brought home sufficient to be the possessor of great riches ; and his fame Avas now so established, that he was the delight and Avonderof the kingdom; Avherever he came the mul titude thronged around and greeted him Avith the most enthusiastic expressions of admiration and regard. Elizabeth, Avho might Avell be proud of her adventurous Admiral, on his bringing the Pelican, which had so long spread her wings over the Avilder ness of the wild waters, into the harbour near Green- Aricli, did him the favour of a royal visit ; feasted, Avith her court, on board his ship, and there conferred upon him the honour of knighthood; an honour then rare ; and never was it more truly deserved, or more boldly won. Drake, hoAvever, Avas one of those characters Avho can gain nothing by any external mark of distinc tion ; his own untitled name would have been suf ficient honour for him in his day, and posterity XXIX.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 241 estimates no man by his titles nor his bearings. Yet so rauch did our great Admiral underrate his own merits that he was desirous to assume the coat of arms of Sir Bernard Drake, a Devonshire knight, to whose family Francis Drake believed himself to be related by a younger branch. If our hero is to be blamed for feeling anxious about a thing so infi nitely below his consideration, Avhat must be said of Sir Bernard, who took high offence at what he deemed an act of presumption in one, in the poverty and obscurity of whose birth he was himself mean enough to see more cause for shame, than honour in the genius, the worth, and the eminent services of the individual that Avould hereafter rank him amongst the most glorious of his country's sons ? It is said by tra dition, that so bitterly did the silly Sir Bernard resent this affront about his arms, that he travelled up to London to complain of it ; and whilst heated in quar rel on the subject, gave Sir Francis a box on the ear ! The news Avas soon carried to the queen, who speed ily devised the means of justly and severely mortifying the pride of Sir Bernard in the most tender point. Elizabeth, fond of aUegory, (and in her age it Avas the fashion in all things, serious or trifling,) now gave her gallant Admiral a coat of arms of her OAvn invention: Sable, a fess Avavy between two pole stars argent. For the crest: a ship, under ruff, draAvn round a globe, Arith a cable rope, by a hand out of the clouds, with this motto over it, ' auxUio dirino,' and this under it, ' sic parris magna.' In the rigging of the vessel, the queen suspended a wivern hy the heels, that heraldic bird being the crest of the proud Sir Bernard, and the cause of his petty jealousy and quarrels with Sir Francis. VOL. II. M 242 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET.. Drake found, in more instances than the one above cited, that though he had compassed the world, he could not escape the effects of those malignant pas sions which are every where found in it; from the Indian, Avho, in savage society, knocks doAvn his enemy and scalps him, to the European, in more poUshed life, who caUs his felloAV man his friend, AvhUst he often aims a secret blow at his feelings, or his reputation, when he can no longer injure him in his fortune. In Drake's tirae it was a custom, on receiATing the honour of knighthood, to give presents in money to such courtiers as might belong to the household of the queen. Sir Francis offered his gold as freely as he had gained it ; but many, not otherwise noted for nice or scrupulous feeUngs, indulged their envy and malice by the refusal of his gifts, affecting to consider them the fruits of nothing better than a pirate's success in a lawless career. The Queen, hoAvever, judged more Idndly of her Admiral; and joined him in command Avith other naval officers of eminence, Forbisher and Hawkins. Drake AveU repaid her confidence in his prowess, by taking the towns of St. Jago, St. Domingo, Car thagena, and St. Augustine, in Florida, from the Spaniards. During the attack on St. Domingo, he had landed a large body of men, and kept possession of the place for several weeks, and sent a flag of truce (intending to treat Avith the enemy) by a negro boy. So little did the Spaniard, AA'ho received the flag, respect the laAV of nations, or of humanity, that he stabbed the unfortunate envoy with his own hand on the spot. The poor negro fled; he had strength sufficient to enable him to return to the Admiral ; he related the circumstance, and instantly XXIX.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 243 expired at his feet. Drake, justly indignant at such an outrage on common huraanity, seized a couple of friars, who were already his prisoners, and sent them with a strong guard to the spot Avhere the negro boy received his death blow ; declaring that unless the murderer was given up to him, he would hang those priests and a couple more each day, till jus tice should be done. The Spaniards dared not trifle with the EngUsh Admfral, Avho they weU knoAV would be Ukely to keep his word ; the offender Avas therefore given up, and executed for the crime of murder ; Drake obliging the dastardly Spaniards to carry into effect the sentence he had pronounced. The year 1588 avUI be ever memorable in the annals of England for the defeat of the Armada; a force which, had it been permitted to succeed, would in all probability have been the means of. restoring, at least for a time, the papal poAver in this Idngdom; and it is not unworthy remark, that exactly a century after, 1688, the providence of God was again manifestly extended over this country, the landing of King WUliam becoming the means of preserring to us our Protestant Church and consti tution ; and in 1788, the memorable struggle be tAveen Fox, the whig advocate of emancipation, and Pitt, the tory supporter of our civil and religious polity, took place on the bUl respecting the regency, and once more the good cause prevailed, by the king's restoration to health, enabling him to fulfil the duties of his august station, and to preserve inriolate his coronation oath. The chief command of the English fleet sent forth by Elizabeth against the Spaniards Avas committed to Lord Howard of Effingham, as Lord High Ad- m2 244 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. miral of England, Sir Francis Drake Avas Vice-Ad- miral, and Hawkins and Forbisher had each an eminent post appointed them in the fleet; which altogether amounted to about one hundred sail. The gallant conduct of Drake in this expedition is known to every reader of history ; and so great was the terror of our hero's name, that the Spanish ship com manded by Don Pedro de Valdez yielded on finding with Avhom he had ventured on immediate contact. Drake continued chasing such of the vessels as had escaped the fury of battle during three days, till God himself finally defeated the enemies of England, by that fearful storm Avhich sent their fugitive ships, little better than Avrecks, back to their OAvn ports. The last voyage undertaken by Sir Francis was in the year 1595, when Elizabeth, desirous of de stroying the power of Spain past reraedy, in the West Indies, gave Hawkins and Drake command of six of her ships, besides which they had not less than twenty-one of their oavu. It Avas intended this expedition should be carried on Arith the utmost secrecy ; a measure of prudence Avhich Drake had never faUed observing, Avhen he acted singly, in his forraer voyages. In the present instance, however, discretion Avas somcAvhere Avanting, for the King of Spain received information of their plans, and adopted means of defence even before the fleet had quitted the British shores. Sir John Hawkins, a man of considerable merit, unhappily died soon after he was at sea; and Drake being uoav left alone in command, steered his course for the coast of Porto Rico, a toAvn in South America, where, Avhilst the vessel Avas riding in the road, a shot from the batteries entered the cabin as he was at supper. XXIX.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 245 struck the chair on Avhich he sat, broke it under hira, and Idlled his friend Brute Brown, Avhilst Sir Nicholas Cliff'ord, another companion of his table, received a dangerous wound. Drake started up, and looking Avith sorrow on his faUen friend, exclaimed " Ah ! dear Brute, I could, indeed, mourn for thee, but this is not the hour to subdue my spirit ;" and, his heart SAvelling with indignation more than grief, he took an immediate revenge by cap turing and burning two Spanish ships in the very sight of the castle. Thus were the Spaniards made to feel that Drake was still himself in spirit, though his success on the Avhole fell far short of his former achievements, or of his present hopes and expecta tions ; as he soon found that the inadvertency or the treachery which had betrayed his plans led the way to frustrate them. Notwithstanding this, he was successful in his attack on Nombre de Dios, for he stormed and burnt the town ; after that event he did nothing of any import; and this change of fortune is said to have had such an effect upon his mind, that it caused his death by bringing on a flux, which in a foAV hours put a period to his glorious career, near Bella Porta in America, on the 9th of January, 1.597. On this point Johnson remarks — " Upon Avhat the conjecture is grounded does not appear ; and we may be allowed to hope, for the honour of so great a man, that it is Avithout founda tion; and that he, whom no series of success could ever betray to vanity or negligence, could have supported a change of fortune without impa tience or dejection." It may hoAvever be observed (though Johnson does not riew it in that light), that present vexation of mind, which differs widely 246 LIFE OF DRAKE. [lET. fi-ora the deep sorrow of a broken heart, might really have been the cause of his death, without any disparagement to the greatness of Drake's cha racter; since it is weU knoAvn to medical men of experience that momentary vexation, and sudden passion of any description will, in constitutions worn by hardships and varieties of cUmate, fre quently bring on fatal attacks of that very disorder which carried him off in so short a time. His remains Avere placed in a leaden coffin, and after the funeral service had been performed Arith every solemnity, they Avere lowered into the deep by his sorroAving crew, to Avhom he had endeared hiraself as much by his personal attention to thefr feelings and their Avants, as by the example of his courage, perseverance, and generosity. Though Drake was not wholly free, perhaps, from sorae of those faults which his enemies drew in exaggerated colours, yet take him as a whole, and few pubhc characters have left so fan-, so unblemished a name. He was the scourge of the Spaniards, and by the just retribution of Proridence they were made to feel that he was such in those very lands where they had acted the most abhorrent crimes to a poor un enlightened, and (till their OAvn cruelties aAvakened their Avorst passions) a harmless race of men, ca pable of gratitude, and exceedingly docile, had they been led by kind raasters instead of being hunted and goaded Uke Avild beasts or slaves. Those Avho are eager to censure Drake for his piracies on the Spanish settlements in America should remember these things, as Avell as the base manner in which he was treated by the Viceroy (who was supported in that act by the King of Spain) in the very onset XXIX.] LIFE OF DRAKE. 247 of his career ; when aU the fortune, the result of his industry and his toils, in his first little bark was lost, not in the chances of an open and expected warfare, but by an attack the most unsuspected and treacherous. The "sea dirinity," which prompted him to make reprisals, no doubt was too orthodox in the riews of a bold and injured seaman, inured from his earliest years to the habits of the ocean, ever after to be forgotten or laid aside. But if we riew the character of Drake in its loyalty, its national pride, its unshaken bravery and perseverance, its kindness, so blended with a firm but not tyrannic exercise of authority ; its generosity to his followers ; and, above all, in its deep de votional feelings, which neither prosperity nor ad versity, nor honours, nor riches (the great corrupter of the human heart), could ever Aveaken, or render even for a moraent forgetful of his God; we shall not fail to admire the qualities of his heart as much as we do those of his genius — both Avere capacious ; and, like his great and kindred spirit, Columbus, he was as humble and merciful as a Christian, as he was celebrated for his skiU as a navigator, and for his courage as a raan. There is no tomb in Eng land to the memory of Sir Francis Drake, but his fame encircles the globe. And so ends this sketch of our gallant townsman's Ufe. My next AriU speak of another of our Avorthies; in the interval Allow me the honour to remain. My dear Sir, Very faithfuUy and truly yours, Anna E. Bray. 248 LETTER XXX. TO ROBERT SOUTHEY, ESQ. Contents. — Affecting story of a widow and her only son — Old Nanny the water-cvess woman — Story of an eccentric old farmer ; his manner of life and interpretation of scripture — Romantic tale of Sarah related — An old tale noticed by Baretti; his excellence as a writer; his letters fallen into undeserved neglect ; his journey through Tavistock noticed ; his account of the weather — The old woman's tale repeated by herself to Baretti here quoted — Cruelty of the Agent ; his determination to ruin the inn ; places the new bridge in a spot remote from it with that view — Barefti's just re flections on the subject of petty tyranny — Passage extracted from a letter of Mr. Southey to the writer — Traditions of Tavistock and wonderful tales, gleaned araongst the elders of the town — Joseph Glanviile had probably collected frora fhe same source in his day — Story of an old witch; a hare and a hound followed by the hunts- ' men — Heathfield, the favourite haunt of devils and spirits — Story of an old woman going to market surprised by a hare — The lamb and the dove — A Tavistock psalm-singer's encounter with the foul fiend — Another story of the devil, which shows him to be a great patron of fiddlers — This last legend probably a vestige of the Old Moralities — The Dying Miller, an old Christmas play, acted here about thirty years ago — The devil surprises a lad stealing nuts on a Sunday — Vestiges of ancient customs — St. Valentine's day — Old customs still occasionally observed — Gloves sent on Easter day — Washing clothes on a Good Friday sinful and unlufiky — To wean children on that day lucky ; also to fill a garden — Shrove Tuesday, a noted day — Old customs — Lent crocking ; old lines upon it — Roasting the shoe — Rose plucked on midsummer day — Supersti tious notions about the days of the week — Birth of children — Twenty-ninth of May rauch observed in this town ; an affray that took place on that day some years ago ; called Garland day— Gar lands, how made ; birds' eggs entwined with flowers— The robin's egg not allowed— Robin held sacred— Children, their dress and sports — Midsummer Eve, aucient superstition concerning it — Creep ing under the communion-table to cure fits— A vestige of an ancient xxx.] A WIDOW AND HER SON. 249 custom probably originating with the Tolraen — Cure for the tooth. ache ; practised in the town — Magpie omens — The holy thistle ; its properties and beautiful appearance — Superstition concerning it — Charms to cure the king's evil — Reading the eighth psalm over infants — Unlocking boxes — Lucky omens — Sun shining on tha, bride — New raoon — Superstition of the Bible and the key — New corn — Plants put into mourning by a widow — Subterranean passage said to lead from the Abbey to Fitz-ford — Discovery at Fitz-ford — Story about concealed plate probably true — Mary Colling brings a letter written by herself — Story of a ghost that haunted Down-house — Old stories about Lady Howard, one in particular related. Vicarage, Tavistock, January 8, 1833. My dear Sir, I HAVE heard Mary CoUing (avUo is a most; intelligent and exact registrar of all the old tales, traditions, and characters of any note in her native- town) tell a very interesting story concerning a poor woman, formerly of this place, the particulars of" Avhich Mary received fi-om a near relative of the- person concerned in the tale, and these I deem not unworthy mentioning to you. Many years ago this poor woraan (whose name Mary had either never heard, or had forgotten) was left a Avidow Avith an only son. She Avas very fond of the boy, and, as far as her slender means would go, brought him up with more care than persons in her station Avere generally able to bestoAV on their children. WhUst he Avas yet a little fellow, an officer in the navy took a fancy to him on account of his hopeful and affectionate disposition, and persuaded the Avidow that it Avould be better to let the lad go to sea, than to stay at home and be brought up a labourer or a mechanic. Reluctant to part with her only treasure, yet not vrishing to thwart a pro posal which she Avas led to beUeve would be greatly m3 250 , A WIDOW AND HER SON. [lET. to his advantage, she let him go, and looked forward AAith longing hopes to hear good noAvs of her boy. None however came : year after year rolled on, and still she heard nothing. She made many efforts to gain intelligence, but not succeeding, at length con cluded he Avas dead. Finding the home AA'here she had parted from her son, and where she had hoped to see him again alive and well, become melancholy, she left the place ; and after wandering for sorae time Avith a basket on her arm, selling fi-uit and trifles by Avhich she obtained a livelihood, increasing years made her determine to take up a more fixed Avay of life again, and she removed to Plymouth. There she noAV sold fruit in the market as a regular dealer. Hav ing something in her appearance that was venerable, being very neat in her dress, civil in speech, and just in her deahngs, the old market-woman became a favourite, and never wanted customers. Many vessels put into Plj'mouth harbour, so that strangers were often frequenters of the market. Amongst these was a young man, dressed in a sailor's jacket, who Avas a constant customer to the poor fi-uit-woman. For several days he renewed his visits to her basket, and at last, fixing his eyes upon her Avith great earnestness, he said, as the tears started into them, " I Uke to buy of you, good woman, because I had once a poor old mother Avho, as I well remember, Avas much like you ; but she is dead and gone." The woman looked up fiiU in his face, the fruit she was about to sell fell from her hand, as she ex claimed, " Good God ! and if I had a son as old as you alive he would be your fellow, for you are like XXX.] A WIDOW AND HER SON. 251 what his father Avas at your age. My boy had a mark on his forehead that came from a hurt he got by a fall that he had when a child." "AVas it like this?" said the sailor, as he took off' his hat and pushed aside his curling hair. The Avoman could give no answer, so much Avas she overpoAvered by her feelings on finding the dead alive in her oAvn long lost son. She dropped down on the spot, Avas carried from it Avith the greatest anxiety by her cMld and the neighbours, and on her senses being restored poured forth a blessing on her son, tlianldng God she had lived to see him once more ; and noAv declared she had not a vrish left but to die Avhen so happy, and be in heaven. Her prayer, fervently offered, was, no doubt, mercifully accepted : in a few days, the young man deeply sorrovring, and attended by some of the ship's crew, who showed a generous sympathy in his filial grief, foUoAved the remains of hi& affec tionate mother to the churchyard in Plymouth, where they rest in peace. By Avhat train of cfrcum stances the youth had fancied her to be no more, so that she had received no news from him for so many years, I do not know, nor could I learn, but the story is not undeserring record. Amongst the Uving characters that Mary CoUing, to use her own AVords, " loves to be telling about," is Old Nanny, the water-cress woman. — " Mary," said I, one day, " you have promised to bring me acquainted vrith your old Nanny, about whom you teU me so many anecdotes. I want to see her : what sort of a person is she in her appearance?" " If you please, ma'am, I'U shoAV you, I've got her in my pocket." 252 OLD NANNY. [lET. " In your pocket, Mary ! Avhy, old Nanny is not a pixy, is she?" " Oh, no ; but I know you Avill not laugh at me for what I have done. But as you said the other day you should like to see Nanny, I have been try ing to draAV her picture for you on a bit of paper, in her tidy cloak, and Arith her basket on her arm, just as she comes to our house Arith one thing and the other that we buy of her. There it is, ma'am." Mary put into my hands a little sketch of a Avliole length figure that, considering Mary Avho attempted it had, I wUl venture to say, scarcely seen any prints beyond those to be found in her own little books, and knew nothing of the rules of drawing, really did surprise rae and Mr. Bray too ; the figure had so corapletely the character of a raarket -woman pre pared for her calling, I gave the sketch all the praise it deserved ; for Mary is one of those to Avhom praise does good; it inspires her with hope and cheerfulness, and not Avith a shadow of vanity. " But, Mary," said 1, still looking at the sketch, " in your draAring, you put me in mind of the Greek painter, whose story no doubt you have read; you remem ber he despaired of being able to depict the grief of a father for his daughter's loss, and so he covered the face with a veil. Thus have you, not feeling yourself equal to give me a sketch of old Nanny's features, very ingeniously contrived corapletely to hide the face, all saving the tip of the chin, under the poke of the bonnet. Now Nanny's face is the very thing I most wish to see." " And it's as honest and as good-tempered a face as any you will see, ma'am, in a summer's day. XXX.] OLD NANNY. 253 And Nanny's very good-looking, too, for one of her years ; for she's up four-score years old, and that's a great age." " Indeed ! and yet you tell me she goes out on Dartmoor to pick cresses and hurtleberiies to gain a living. Do tell rae all about her." And then Mary Colling gave rae Nanny's history as nearly as possible in the follovring Avords : — " Old Nanny, the water-cress woman, is, as I have tried to make her in the drawing, rather short and stout, and looks the picture of health and cheer fulness. Her right narae is, I think, Anne Burna- ford Jaraes. Her grandfather was, as she told me, a clergyman, Avho bore a great character in his day, particularly for conjuring away a very troublesome ghost, and confining him in a tower ; the clock of which has never since struck, as the old people of the country say. Nanny is a vridoAV, and well known as a very hard-working woman. She lives with her daughter-in-law, who is also a vridow vrith three children ; and, like Ruth and Naomi, they will not part, and they AVorship God together. You have heard tell, no doubt, hoAV raany sailors' farailies lived about Plyraouth and this country formerly. Nanny's daughter-in-laAV is the widoAv of a sailor, Avhose ship some said Avas lost, but most believe it Avas taken by pirates, and that he was Idlled. The eldest boy goes to school at GreeuAvich, the two others are very sickly, and live at horae Avith their mother. She is poor, industrious, and honest ; and Avhat Avith old Nanny's hard labour and the little alloAved by the parish, they all make a very decent appearance; and now the daughter-in-law has set up a little shop to supply poor people with trifling 254 OLD NANNY. [lET- things; and the profit of it helps pay the rent. But the main stay of the faraily is Nanny. " Poor old soul ! she is up with the lark, and oftentimes dm-ing summer she goes to Dartmoor to gather hurtleberries, called by the counti-y people, hurts. And sometimes she's away to the woods for nuts or blackberries; or else to the hedges and fields for herbs and elderberries. She fi-equently rises on a frosty morning, long before day, and walks four or five miles to pull water- cresses, Avhen the streara where they grow has been half frozen. She told me that one morning, after coming out of the water into which she had been obliged to go, to gather the cresses, her clothes were frozen about her. These vegetables and herbs she sells, and supplies persons who make elder- Avine or blackberry-syrup. The poorer class have a great opinion of old Nanny as a doctress, and she is the most kind and useful person in the world to them ; and does cures, and is very clever in dressing a wound. No one better understands the medical quaUties of different herbs, Avhich she says are too much despised and neglected by the real doctors. She finds many rare ones on Dartmoor; and always turns her apron before she goes there in search of them, because she was once pixy-led on the moor." I make no apology to you, my dear Sir, for writing about such humble characters as these, because I know you deUght in, and indeed, wished me to gather what I could gather, of "the short and simple annals of the poor," and in one of your own essays, you have given some most deUghtful rela tions of the industry and struggles of the poor, par- XXX.] AN ECCENTRIC FARMER. 255 ticularly in the story of Britton Abbot, and the lad who used to attend on his paralytic raother. And now, having told you tAvo stories of the rir- tuous poor, I will tell you another respecting a man who, in point of property, could not come under that class ; though he had commenced life as a weaver, but afterwards turned to farming, and with very considerable success. I bring him forward here as an instance of the danger arising from presumption, when the half-educated and whole conceited take on theraselA'es to interpret scripture after their own mind, and not according to the canon. As the story of this old man is notorious, known indeed to all the neighbourhood, there can be no improper prying into faraUy secrets in here mentioning it. However, as what I have to tell is not to the credit of his memory,. I vriU spare his name. His picture, sketched from recoUection, full length with the face, (and I am told it is a good likeness,) I have been favoured vrith from the ingenious hand of Mary ColUng. There lived about a mile from Taristock, an old man Avho was most eccentric in all his ways; strictly honest in his dealings relative to business, and Avould pay even a farthing in settUng an ac count,, rightly saying that a farthing debt was as much due as a pound. He was also an exceUent master to his labourers; and such a lover was he of aU the country customs, that whilst he lived he might be considered as the representative of old manners and past times. Every festival through out the year was duly observed by hun and his household ; and his men working on the farm. had their fuU share of all the sports. No house displayed such an abundance of shrove cakes ; May- 256 AN ECCENTRIC FARMER. [lET. day had its honours, and as Christmas Avas croAvned with evergreens, the yule-clogs were noble, and roast-beef and plum-puddings feasted the poor; whilst all the games and fi-olics of that season were celebrated with the honours their antiquity required. There Avas nothing to be said against this liberal old farmer, excepting that he considered himself a profound theologian; controverted the doctrines of the Established Church, and in his advanced years chose to give a practical example of patriarchal liring that scandalized all the neighbourhood. For after living forty years Avith his Avife, he publicly avowed his intention of taking her maid, as his oAvn hand-maid, after the example of Abraham ; saying he chose, in this particular, to walk after the old law; nor would he allow, Avhen his friends remon strated, that there Avas any sin or shame in the act ; seeing that he did not intend to turn out his old Avifc, but still to give her the first place of honour in the house. This beautiful scheme he carried into eff'ect; but somehow or other, the old Avife did not think her husband's illustration of scripture quite orthodox, and very properly refused to live longer under the same roof with hira ; and so she left him, to reside Avith her own raarried daughter. But no sooner had she removed, than the patriarchal far mer paid her the utmost attention, and to keep up her authority and rights, deputed the hand-maid to carry her almost daily the best things his table or his farra could aff'ord. The old raan next turned prophet ; and declared he knew he was to become the father of five chil dren, who were to be brought up on his Avife's knees, in all reverence to her, as in the days of Sarah and Rebecca; and five chUdren he really had — for, as XXX.] A ROMANTIC STORY. 257 an old divine says, "if we give the devil our ear to false doctrine, he will grant us our heart's desire in the fruits of the sermon that goeth after his text." The boys he named Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob; one girl Avas called Sarah, and the other he Avished to narae Rebecca; but the hand-maid begged she might be called after herself — Mary. So the old farmer said he had no objection, for the child could not be called after a better Avoman than the Virgin Mary, Avhose Ufe he intended her to imitate in holy prayers and good Avorks. It is lamentable to think that this man died, as I am assured he did, in the full conviction that he had committed no sin, in his Avay of life, either toAvards God or towards society. "The most romantic story that I have heard of in this neighbourhood is one I am now about to men tion. The particulars Avere related to me by our good friend Mr. H . He derived thera from his mother ; that lady has been dead some years ; but in her young days she Avas acquainted with one of the parties most concerned, and I am assured by Mr. H . that hoAvever romantic the circum stances may appear, more like those of a novel than of real life, they are nevertheless unexaggerated and true. He has given rae full permission to re peat them, only requesting me to suppress the names, because, though the actors in this melan choly drama have long since been in their graves, he believes some of their descendants may be still liring. The events I have thus collected and am about here to repeat occurred about sixty years ago. A person of this toAvn, Avho Avas the OAvner of con siderable property, had only one daughter; her Christian name Avas Sarah. From Avhat I have 258 A ROMANTIC STORY. [lET. heard, she appears to have been amiable and af fectionate, possessed of great personal attractions, and of mild, engaging manners. To her might be appUed those lines, beautifiil in their simplicity, descriptive of Emma : '* Her eye was patient, and she spoke in tones So sweet and of so pensive gentleness That the heart felt them. The attractions of Sarah were too obrious to re main unnoticed, and she had many admirers ; some of a station and fortune that might have dazzled a less ingenuous mind; but her hand and heart re mained free, till a young man of inferior degree, but possessed of great worth and industry, became at tached to her, and was bold enough to apply to her father for his consent. The father refused to give it unless the lover could satisfy him that he was worth one hundred pounds to begin the world with. From the opulence of the old gentleman, and the knoAvn poverty of the youth, this was considered a mere excuse to get rid of his importunity; for as Sarah declared her only reluctance was the fear of off'ending her parent, there was no obstacle to be pleaded concerning her consent to the proposal. The young man, who possessed a truly honour able mind, would not attempt to deceive the father, even to gain the most anxious wish of his heart ; and he candidly told the old gentleman that his present fortunes were humble ; he possessed no such sum as one hundred pounds; but he had health and industry, and that he hoped to gain it and many more for Sarah's sake. The father, on hearing tins, peremptorily refrised him, and forbade * In the poem of ' Madoc' XXX.] A ROMANTIC STORY. 259 him all access to the house, though he had hitherto allowed him to Aisit there without restraint. The daughter offered no remonstrance; she submitted to the authority it Avas her duty to respect, with her accustomed gentleness ; but it soon became evident that though her outward demeanour Avas calm, aU was not well Avithin. She Avas dejected, silent, and so low that what was then called "a fever on the spirits " ensued, and her state of health was con sidered very precarious. Alarmed at this, the father so far relented, that one day, after haring closely questioned her, he intimated " that though he had so positively declared to the young man, Avhose pre sumption he censured for looking so much above him, that he would never consent, and felt himself therefore bound not to appear to change his pur pose; yet, nevertheless, if she could not be happy \rithout him, and stole a marriage without asking leave about it, he would forgive her, if she behaved properly when all was done." It is needless to add that this intimation was not spoken to deaf ears ; it was speedily followed by a stolen marriage, if so it could be called, and most likely all would have ended happily, but that there was another person who fancied herself concerned in the matter, and Avho now stept in to play her part in the drama. This was the young lady's aunt, (her father's sister,) who, from the many anecdotes re peated to me about her, I should judge to be one of the most reraarkable characters in deliberate iniquity that I have ever heard of in real life, or ever read of in romance. This woman was a compound of many opposite qualities; some the most desfr-- able, and others the worst that could be found in 260 A ROMANTIC STORY. [lET. her sex. In the first class, she possessed strong sense, an active spirit, a steady teraper, and an in defatigable perseverance. Of evil she had a still larger share ; a smooth insinuating address, the most artful and far-sighted policy, and was, in equal degrees, selfish, unfeeling, cold and proud. Tn her OAvn raarriage, cunning as she Avas, she had been mistaken, having married a man whose expectations she beUeved to be raore considerable than they really were ; she had a son grown up, an apothecary, but one of the Romeo and .luUet order; for his beg garly account of empty boxes displayed smaU prac tice and a barren farae. He bore also a very indif ferent character, not having the art to hide his faults so skilfully as his mother concealed her own. This lady commenced her measures about her niece, by persuading the father, for the sake of appearances, (that great object of little minds,) that it might seera to the world he had not really sanc tioned such an inferior raatch, to hold himself aloof for a short time from his daughter, and by no means immediately to see her. The father was a very weak man; and as bold spirits, who are held in respect on account of their superior sense, gene rally awe such men into submission, it is less Avon derful that he should have been silly enough to let his sister guide hira in this unfeeling conduct to wards his child. She persuaded him, also, that he had been practised upon ; that the dejection and Ulness of the girl had been affected for the purpose of Avorldng on his mind to obtain his sanction to the marriage, and at the same time to secure an interest in his purse. She blamed him for what he had done without consulting his friends, herself in par- xxx.] A ROMANTIC STORY. 261 ticular, who Avould have opened his eyes to the de ception ; and finally overcame his reluctance to fol- loAV her dictates, by appealing to his pride, of which he had no small share. His health too was declin ing ; and he had all the peevishness that frequently attends the valetudinarian in age, Avhen there is not (what, I fear, was in this instance the case) a deep sense of dependence on God, and that consequent resignation Avhich a strong religious trust never fails to inspire, AvhUst it makes the bed of infirmity one of hope and rest. In addition to all this, the poor man had for years been in the bondage of female rule, in the habit of submitting more than Avas be coming to the arbitrary Avill of his very clever and very cunning sister. It was known to all his friends that he often yielded in the hope to buy his peace. The only iraportant act that for years he had done ¦without consulting her, Avas the indirect sanction given to his daughter to get married without his formal consent, and for this he was soon made to pay dearly, as the sequel of what I have to relate ¦vrill show. He agreed to act entirely in future by his sister's advice. But only half her purpose Avas gained by this promise. She knew, however much she might awe her brother whilst present, that nature was a strong adA'ocate in a father's heart towards a beloved child ; and she feared to trust him, did an interview but once take place betAveen hira and that child. Her part Avas uoav, therefore, to be played with the daughter. Mr. H assures me that she Avas base enough, under the mask of friendship, to pay her niece a sly visit on her return to the neighbourhood; and 262 A ROMANTIC STORY. [lET. blamed her very cordiaUy for youthful imprudence " and precipitancy ; but, as what Avas done could not be undone, she hoped to make the best of it ; inti mating to her confidentially, that she feared her father Avas so very seriously cUspleased at her taking him at his word, and running off and getting married so speedily, that unless very nice management Avas observed, she was sure he would never adrait her husband vrithin his doors, or do anything for him in time to come. This was a serious threat for persons so situated ; and Sarah asked her aunt what should she do for the best ? Should she go to her father, or write to him, or would her aunt, AA'ho had such influence, speak to him and make peace ? She had no idea but that he really intended what he said : or, on no consideration, Avould she have left him in so undutiful a manner. The aunt used many argu ments to assist her purpose, and finally persuaded her niece that the best way to act would be to wait in respectful silence the old gentleman's pleasure; by no raeans to intrude herself upon him, either by a personal or written ap^plication ; and that she would say all that could be said on the subject, which Avas far more likely to soften his angry feeUngs, than any other means in the world. The daughter feU into the snare, and forbore to write to, or come near her father for some time ; a Une of conduct which the aunt in the interval repre sented as highly disrespectful and unfeeUng. After waiting a long Avhile, and receiving merely such information as this Avicked Avoman chose to give her, Sarah heard nothing from her father himself; and now thinking he had cruelly treated her, she gave way to some intemperate feelings towards him ; XXX.] A ROMANTIC STORY. 263 for, notArithstanding the many amiable qualities she possessed, she had something- of the impatient spirit of a spoiled chUd Avhen thwarted by long opposition. In one of these moods, tmhappily for herself, she wrote to her father in a tone of complaint, and up braided Inm vrith harshness for his unkindness, intimating that after what he had done, he was bound to forgive her and receive her husband. This was exactly the point to which the aunt had laboured to bring matters ; so that now, instead of making peace between the parties, she, on each side, fanned the flames of wrath ; till at length, so open a war was declared, that the old gentleman refused to see or admit his daughter, and was as seriously pre judiced against her as h.er most artful enemy had desired he should be. His health experienced a yet greater shock frora these troubles, and his sister now prevaUed with him to believe that no doctor on earth could so long prop up his declining constitu tion as her son, the apothecary ; and he had better leave his melancholy way of housekeeping, and come and Uve vrith them. Thus both mother and son beset him, and he gave himself up entirely to thefr hands; for whilst one Avas propping up the weakened body, the other was managing the stiU more weakened mind. Harassed in spirits ; injured, as the old man believed he was, in iris tenderest feelings by his own child, he gave up aU contention, and let his sister do with him what she Avould, She next persuaded him that he ought to settle his Avoiidly aff'airs ; and to make such a wUl that his worthless daughter, who had in his old age brought on him so much misery, should have no cause to 264 A ROMANTIC STORY. [lET. triumph after his death in her OAvn wicked work. She ought not to have one farthing ; she ought to be disinherited for her punishment. Here, however, the cunning adviser ventured beyond the mark. The old gentleraan, Aveak as he Avas, and in the hands of these vUe people, Avas not altogether so completely the dupe of his sister's will as she Avould make him. He represented to her that though he felt, as well as herself, that his daugh ter deserved nothing from him, still her husband had been very unsuccessfiil, he had heard, in some speculations he had attempted to get on with in the Avorld. She might have children, and they Avould be his posterity, hoAvever angry he might feel Avith their mother ; nor Avould it be right to cut them off because of her ingratitude. When the invalid said this, there was about him a degree of angry resolution, AA'hich made his sister see it Avould be dangerous to con tradict him ; and all she could gain, besides a hand some legacy to herself and son, was a sort of half promise that if his own life should be spared, and he saw no Ukelihood of his daughter having a family, he might add a clause to secure the estates to his iiepheAv, the doctor, in tirae to come. Well Avas he now nursed and doctored to keep him aUve ; and the will made and executed without a pre sent fear of change. But deep Avas the A'exa- tions of the aunt when soon after she found her niece Sarah (whose husband was struggling to rid himself of difficulties, and to support his wife in the humblest Avay) was Ukely to becorae a raother ; a circumstance that Avould effectually cut off" her own dishonest hopes for eA'er. Such, however, had been her arts, that she had xxx,] A ROMANTIC STORY. 265 never AvhoUy cast off her niece, but still wearing the mask of friendship, had kept up an acquaintance in an under-hand manner, declaring she dared not openly countenance her on account of the displeasure of her father, Avho would never forgive his oavu sister, if he knew she did so. The aunt, on the plea of anxiety for her safety, proposed that her son, the doctor, should attend his cousin in her coraing hour ; as he Avould do more for her than any other pro fessional man, and it should be no expense to her as she Avas so poor. The son did attend his cousin, and the child Avas born dead. My informant assures me the same circumstance, the sarae doctor, and the same result happened thrice in a very fcAV years. The hopes of the poor raother Avere constantly blighted, no living child ever repaid the sorroAvs of its birth; and a funeral, Avithout the consolatory serrice for the baptized dead, constantly foUoAved her dangerous travail. At length old age and the father's infirraities Avore him out ; he Avas dying ; and now, in the last moments of his life, he begged to see his child. Anger had long had its course, but death, that van quishes all things, overcame even this bitter eneray of life, and he wished to see Sarah once again. Sarah could not, he hoped, forget the years of af fection in Avliich they had lived together ; he would even yet forgive her if she would but come to him and show she was sorry for what had passed, and had some feeling for him on his death-bed. He applied to his constant attendant, his sister, in these mo ments of returning kindness, and asked if his child reaUy knew his dangerous state. The sister told him she did; but persisted in representing the VOL. II. N 266 A ROMANTIC STORY. [LET. daughter as caring nothing about her father, as devoid of all feeling ; speaking harshly of him to aU the world, and Avishing only for his death, in the certainty she was heir to his property. The daughter, also, on the other hand, hearing of her father's condition, (for age and illness had con fined him for some years,) implored her aunt to intercede with him to see her before he died. But she always answered he would not. I am told that it was well known, even at the time, that on one occasion she would have forced herself into the room to see her father ; but the aunt riolently repulsed her, saying it would be the immediate death of him, if she did so. It soon became evident that the old man had not many days, possibly not many hours, to live ; and now again the AriU was brought forward. His sister, seeing his extreme weakness, and his dis appointed feelings, gave her an opportunity of acting on him, made a desperate effort to secure the inhe ritance as her oAvn, without a chance of alteration, as she well knew the will of the dead must be final. It was the last struggle she had Avith her dying brother ; for he still persisted that he would not disinherit his grandchildren, though his daughter deserved nothing in requital for her cruelty and indifference towards him in his last hours. To settle the question for ever, his sister now told him, what she declared she had hitherto feared to mention ; namely, that ber own son had attended his daughter in all her confinements, and such was the state of her health, it was impossible she could ever be other than the mother of a dead-born child. Even then the old man paused before he would sign another wiU, in the hope, the last hope, that his Sarah Avould XXX.] A ROMANTIC STORY, 267 yet shoAv some sense of feeling for his condition, and would come and ask his blessing and forgiveness before he died. But he heard nothing of her ; there was no change ; and a new wiU having been pre- ¦riously arranged by a lawyer, (who, it Avas afterwards very generally beUeved, had been largely paid for what he did on the old gentleman's death,) the un happy father put his hand to it in the presence of such witnesses as they chose to caU in. This wUl bequeathed the entfre property, which Avas consi derable, to his sister, her son, the doctor, and to thefr hefrs. The father breathed his last soon after he had signed the ruin of his own child, who was thus left in great indigence and distress. In a Uttle whUe strange reports and whispers went abroad; and many things became known in consequence of quar rels and disputes between some of the parties most concerned in the division of the spoil. These reports could not escape the daughter's ears ; and conrinced in her OAvn mind that, however angry her father might have been, he would not have left her in want had her aunt reaUy acted the friendly part she had promised, the wUl became a matter of investigation, and was disputed by the natural heirs. It was drawn, ho Ave ver, Arithout flaw or error ; and the law yer employed averred that it had been made under the sole direction of the deceased, whose long dis countenance of the daughter, in consequence of her marriage, was pubUely known ; a fact that could not be denied. The unhappy joung woman, and her husband, whose Uttle means had been rendered less by the expenses of law, now dropt aU acquaintance vrith the n2 268 A ROMANTIC STORY. [lET. vUe aunt and her deceitful son ; and some time after she Avas the mother of a living child, who came into the world to share the poverty of his parents and the inheritance of their Avrongs. Not long before the particulars I have narrated Avere communicated to me, I had been reading- Johnson's ' Life of Savage,' the poet. That masterly work made a deep im pression on my feelings, as it must on the feeUngs of every reader who is not raade of stone ; and I could not help coraparing the continued course of unre lenting art and cruelty shown by this detestable woman toAvards her niece, to that of the barbarovis mother of the poet toAvards her son. How the mo ther of Savage died Ave do not know ; for she Avas living when Johnson Avrote his life : but in the tale I have to conclude, I can relate that the justice of the Almighty did not slumber ; it never does, for though it may be suspended or delayed, it is but like those slowly advancing tempests, that fall the more fear fully by having gathered every scattered cloud into one tremendous mass ere they burst ; and woe be to the Avicked AA'hen the anger of God is delayed till he shall have passed fi-om this world to another ; it is then not as a tempest, but rather as the simoom of the desert that destroys for ever, and Arithers as it strikes. The circumstance of all the children being dead born Avhilst the aunt's son attended the unfortunate mother, and two children, subsequently born, coming alive into the world when he no longer attended her, gave rise to Avhisperings and suspicions too danger ous to be openly declared. But the affair Avas never, I believe, in any way investigated ; and if that man might be guUty or not guUty to the extent he Avas xxx.] A ROMANTIC STORY. 269 suspected, no doubt he was sufficiently iniquitous in haring connived at his mother's arts to secure him the inheritance, and he soon felt the effects of an ill narae. No one openly spoke to hira their thoughts, but all shunned him. The doors of the rich were closed to him, who, in point of wealth, was noAV their equal. The poor, hoAvever low, would pay him no respect, and few, even of the miserable, would ask charity at his hand ; for, as superstition was then more rife in the west even than it is now, a saying Avent abroad, " that Avhatever money he touched it became cursed." His house (no longer, I believe, in existence) was, I am told, in a solitary spot ; no servant of respectability would eat his bread, or take wages of one deemed little better than a Herod towards children in the hour of their birth. If he came into public, men shrunk from him, and left him alone, though in a multitude ; whilst the mother, who Avas the original instigator of all this guilt and misery, met, even from him, that most just requital, an ill return for all the Avickedness she had worked for his benefit. But there are spirits Avho dare act in the sight of God deeds that make them quaU before tho eye of man ; and his spirit Avas of this class. Con tempt was too much for hira ; he could not brook the public scorn and abhorrence with which he was treated ; and he died, it was very generally believed^ of a proud yet broken heart. The country people, even to this day, tell the wildest stories about his funeral. One of them I have heard from Mary CoUing. It is that the coffin which contained his body was so heavy that it required ten raen to lift it. That his spirit never could find rest, and still at times walks, enveloped 270 BARETTI. [let. in flames. At other times he is seen in company Arith that one great and eril Prince, to whom it was beUeved he sold himself whilst on earth, and on some part of the property he is said to have entaUed a curse on whomsoever should possess it. Of the fate of the disinherited daughter I know nothing more than that she died in great poverty; and Mary tells me, when a child, she recoUects seeing in the old churchyard, adjoining a portion of the Abbey (now converted into a Unitarian meeting), a tomb-stone much defaced, and half hidden by the long grass, that bore her name. If any of her pos terity survive I do not know. Ere I quit the subject of old stories (and pray observe, that in relating these I vouch for nothing more, than that the substance of them has been related to me by persons of sufficient respectability to warrant my repeating them), I shall mention one I have often heard related by Mi-. Bray, who re ceived it from his late father. This has already been sUghtly noticed by a most adrairable writer, Baretti, in his letters addressed to his brothers, where he relates his progress fi-om London to Falmouth, whence he set sail to Portugal, and so travelled on to Genoa. Baretti is one of those authors who, in the present day, have sunk into undeserved neglect. The natural and graphic manner in which he de scribes all he sees ; his lively sketches of the dif ferent characters he meets Arith in his journeys ; his constant good humour, and the kindness of heart which pervades aU his letters, render the volumes that contain them so truly delightful, that we have, perhaps, no work of the kind that merits higher praise, or that Avould be more worthy reprinting in xxx.J baretti's letter. 271 these times of cheap publication. And when we recollect these letters possessing so much merit, even in point of language and style, as Avell as in matter, were written by a foreigner, they excite our surprise no less than our admiration. Having thus endeavoured to give the humble tribute of my praise to a neglected author whose books I have read three or four times, and always with renewed pleasure, I avUI state the cfrcumstances mentioned by him. After recounting, in his amusing way, his three days' journey in the stage-coach fi-om London to Plymouth (a journey noAV performed in twenty-seven hours), and teUing us how pleasantly he found him self situated in the stage Arith Miss Anne and Miss Helen, as travelling companions ; the songs they sang to beguile the hours on the road, &c.; he gives us some notice of Plymouth, and then goes on to a toAvn (Tavistock) in his way to Horse Bridge, whence he Avrote the letter to which I allude, and then the passage from Devon into CoruAvall ; the Tamar diriding these counties. At Horse Bridge there Avas a little inn. Baretti truly is faithful ; and by his account Ave learn that, however things may change in this ever-varying world, our Tavistock weather is one of the most constant in nature, for he begins the letter in question with these words : " This has proved a very rainy day, which has made my short journey very disagreeable. At the town where I dined (that town was Taristock), haring nobody to talk to, and yet wanting to talk (Baretti Avas one of those happy mortals who find pleasure and in formation in talking to the humblest as well as to 272 AN OLD woman's story. [let. the highest of their kind), I asked mine hostess how she went on in her business ?" — " Very poorly," said the old Avoman. "1 am very sorry to hear you say so, said I (Baretti always sympathised with the feelings of the poor); but how can this be, as the town seems so populous?" The good woman then told the ItaUan traveller her tale, which, as he heard the leading facts from herself, I shall here repeat by again quoting his letter. "The old woman," says Baretti, "informed me that almost the Avhole territory of that toAvn be longed to a noble peer (that was the Duke of Bed ford), who never goes there (the present duke honours it, however, occasionally with his presence), and leaves all his concerns to the management of an agent." If Baretti heard the agent's name he did not state it; but I shall venture to do so, as the man has been dead for years, our traveller having written this letter in 1760. The agent's name then was Butcher; and, truly, by the old woman's account, he did not deserve one a whit more gentle, for she thus goes on with his history : " Now the agent by these means, from a very in significant felloAV that he originally was, is become a most considerable personage in the toAvn, and plays the bashaw over almost every body there. Do you see," quoth the old woraan, " that girl there ? WeU, she is a virtuous girl, and never would raind the agent. I Avill say no more : but he took some thing amiss in us, and declared himself our enemy.'' He did indeed declare and prove himself an enemy to these poor people ; for when the new road was about that time made over Dartmoor, it served him as an excuse for the erection of a noAV bridge. XXX.] an old woman's story. 273 which he contrived to have built higher up the river, so that it might lead travellers, coming from Moreton, Exeter, and Ashburton, to an inn he favoured instead of that occupied by the persons he Avas determined to ruin. The old bridge he caused to be taken down, and a few vestiges of it still remain on either side of the river. It Avas a very ancient construction, and led imraediately to the house where Baretti dined. After the buUding of the new bridge, proAious to its destruction, it must seldom have been crossed, excepting by travellers fi-om Plymouth on their road to Falmouth, a cfr cumstance which induces me to conjecture that it Avas standing when the Italian letter-writer visited- tliis town, and that thus he found his way to tho neglected inn. " He is," continued the old Avoman, still speaking - of the agent to Baretti, " all powerful here, and does right and Avrong just as he lists ; nor can we get any redress, as the justice himself stands in fear of him. Sorae of the townsmen, who have been wronged by the agent, as well as we, have gone severally to Lon don to complain of him to the lord ; but never could get admittance, because he is too great a man to be spoke to by ordinary people ; besides that se veral of his grace's servants are in the bashaw's interest, and take care to stop all information. Every body gives a good Avord to the lord, and says that he Avould set all things to rights if he was but apprised of Avhat is doing in this place*. To =* So he did at last ; for Barretti adds, in a note, in a subsequent edition of his work — " The complaint of the inhabitants, as I was casually apprised since my return to England, have reached the peer, and the agent has been turned out of his place." n3 274 an old woman's story. [let. distress me and my family, the agent wiU have nothing further to do Arith any inhabitant who comes to my inn; and he has it in his power to harass many, and deny bread to many, haring, as I said, the management of almost all the land in the tei-ritory, and many of them being the lord's te nants. Thus am I ruined," continued the old wo man, " as I have no means of subsistence but such chance travellers as you are, and the road from Plymouth to Falmouth not much frequented. Not a single glass of cider can I sell to any body de pendent on that raan ; they all avoid me and my house as if the plague Avas in it." On this cir cumstance Baretti makes some just remarks, and concludes thera thus : " No such laws can be thought on by mortal legislators as perfectly to screen the weak against the strong, or the poor against the rich, especially when the subject of complaint is not so great as to draAv the public attention, which is generally the case in those many oppressions that the little endure from the great. Innumerable are the distresses that one part of mankind would heap upon the other were it not for a law much higher than any you can pass. That laAv you must aU endeavour to inculcate to each other that it may spread further and further; that alone wiU prove powerful if you keep it ; but if you despise or neg lect it, none else wUl be much conducive to the suppression and extinction of petty tyi-anny. Thus did I go on moralizing the whole afternoon, closely shut up in ray chaise because ofthe rain. This inn (at Horse Bridge where he wrote the letter) is the last place in Devonshire. To-morrow I shall be in Cornwall by break of day." xxx.J old tales. 275 Having space left, and the epistle itself being of a very misceUaneous nature, I propose finishing it with some " disjointed chat" on matters I have col lected in obedience to you; and that is the best apology 1 can offer for sending what foUoAvs, Do you remember a letter I had the pleasure of receiv ing from Keswick, dated February Oth, 1832 ? I have just taken it from a certain coUection, equally va luable and prized by us, in a little old-fashioned box, where, safe under lock and key, it rests secure from aU autograph thieves. In the letter, to which I aUude, there is this passage, that I here give in case you shoiUd have forgotten it : — " Gather up all the traditions you can, and even the nursery songs : no one can tell of Avhat value they may prove to an antiquary. The Danes have a coUection of such traditions in two volumes — every local story, Avise or siUy, that could be collected — and a very curious book it is : my son and I are just coming to the end of it in our lessons. There is matter enough in such things for fancy and for reflection, to point a moral, or work up into a poem, and not unfre quently to elucidate soraething in the history of former times. Mary ColUng may be a very usefiil helpmate." And so Mary has been ; and by and bye I shall give more than one proof of it, for I am now going to tell some wonderful tales, that I hope you wUl not find less so than those contained in the Danish book, and not a whit less marvellous than such as I have already told — - of fairy elves, Whose midnight revels by a forest side, Or fountain, some belated peasant sees. Or drearas he sees; while over head the moon Sits arbitress, and nearer to the earth Wheels her pale course." 276 OLD TALES. [lET. My tales, however, now are anything but of a Ughtsome character — they are of "midnight hags" who do "deeds without a name." These have been gleaned amongst the elders of Tavistock and its ricinity, and are purely traditional ; but I do not believe that I am the first gleaner, for I rather think that a learned author, Joseph Glanrille, famous for his " Booke on Wytches," has been beforehand with me in Tavistock, and no Avonder. This country was well known to him ; he was born at Plymouth (I Avish it had been here, that I might have had to Avrite his life), and was of a branch of the celebrated Glanrille family of Kilworthy ; and I doubt not must have been, from that circumstance, a frequent visit ant in our town and neighbourhood, and there he Avas no idle listener to old tales I wiU Avarrant. Though it is some time since I saw his work, and I expected to see the candles burn blue, and the cats begin to dance, even like his oavu, Avhilst reading it ; yet I have a very, very strong recollection of a cer tain story of derilry in it so sirailar to one still told by the elders of the place, that I cannot help be- liering it is in substance the same, or founded on the same. Had Glanville's book been comraon here, I should have thought the good people had borrowed this story from it to convert it into a tra dition (for I have had experience, as wiU be told anon, they can do such things noAV and then), but from a very minute and lawyer-like sifting of eri dence, I am disposed to acquit the Tavistock folk, and to pronounce that Joseph GlanviUe did, even what I ara now doing, pick their brains about their old tales as ingeniuosly as he could to help out his book. One advantage he had, Avhich I have not had, he had seen the devU himself, I beUeve, and xxx.] AN OLD WITCH. 277 was therefore more likely to be correctly informed in all the most minute points of his history. Now here foUoAVs the tale about Avhich I have been talking, as it is told by our old people : — An old witch, in days of yore, lived in this neigh bourhood; and whenever she wanted money, she Avould assume the shape of a hare, and Avould send out her grandson to tell a certain huntsman Avho lived hard by, that he had seen a hare sitting at such a particular spot, for which he always received the reward of sixpence. After this deception had many times been practised, the dogs turned out, the hare pursued, often seen, but never caught, a sports man of the party began to suspect, in the language of tradition, " that the devil was in the dance," and there would be no end to it. The raatter Avas dis cussed, a justice consulted, and a clergyman to boot ; and it was thought that, however clever the devil might be, law and church combined would be more than a match for him. It was therefore agreed that, as the boy was singularly regular in the hour at Avhich he came to announce the sight of the hare, all should be in readiness for a start the in stant such information was given : and a neighbour of the Avitch, npthing friendly to her, promised to let the parties knoAv directly when the old woman and her grandson left the cottage and went off to gether ; the one to be hunted, and the other to set on the hunt. The news came, the hounds were unkennelled, and huntsmen and sportsmen set off with surpris ing speed. The Avitch, now a hare, and her little colleague in iniquity, did not expect so very speedy a turn out ; so that the game Avas pursued at a des- 278 AN OLD WITCH. [lET. perate rate, and the boy, forgetting himself in a moment of alarm, was heard to exclaim, "Run, Granny, run ; run for your life ! " At last the pur suers lost the hare, and she once more got safe into the cottage by a little hole in the bottom of the door; but not large enough to admit a hound in chase. The huntsman, all the squires Avith their train, lent a hand to break open the door, but could not do it tiU the parson and the justice came up; but as law and church Avere certainly designed to break through iniquity, even so did they now suc ceed in bursting the magic bonds that opposed them. Up stairs they all went. There they found the old hag bleeding, and covered with Avounds, and stiU out of breath. She denied she was a hare, and railed at the Avhole party. " CaU up the hounds," said the huntsman, " and let us see what they take her to be; may be we may yet have another hunt." On hearing this, the old woman cried quarter. The boy dropt on his knees, and begged hard for mercy — mercy vvas granted on condition of its being received together vrith a good whipping; and the huntsman, haring long practised amongst the hounds, now tried his hand on thefr game. Thus, the old Avoman escaped a worse fate for the time present ; but on being afterwards put on her trial for boAritching a young woman, and making her spit pins, the tale just told was given as evidence against her, before a particularly learned judge, and a remarkably sagacious jury, and the old woman finished her days, like a martyr, at the stake. But our neighbourhood is much too rich in old tales, to have merely one to tell about hounds and XXX.] HEATHFIELD. 279 iritches. If the last is not sufficiently wonderful, what think you of this ? There is a place near our town caUed Heath- field — a large, lone waste, gloomy and solitary, and aU that — I wiU, however, spare you this tirae a grand description, without promising always to be so con siderate when that great temptation to Avriters oc curs of shoAring "a fine style," and being very mystical. Heathfield was then just such a place as eril spirits delight in ; where if people really see nothing, it is quite dreary and vast enough to fancy they see a great deal, which, in these sort of cases, is much the same thing. On Heathfield the derils dance ; I do not know Avho is the piper, as we have here no Tam o' Shanter to tell us ; but I suppose the company are not without musicians ; and I have sometimes thought they troubled our town bandj and gave them a few hints in the " concord of sweet sounds," sweet to those who like them, but marvel lous harsh to all other ears. Now, as the " old tale goes," there was once upon a time (a mode of dating which aU tellers of such tales as mine should never fail to employ, as it sets aside any small cavils that might arise from those awkward points in settUng real facts, that depend on chronology) — once upon a time then, there was an old woman (and who wiU deny a fact Uke that ?) and she made a slight mistake, I do not know how, and got up at midnight, thinking it to be morning. Had she lived in London in our days, this would not have happened, midnight, in that great city, being the hour that both old and young go to bed. This good woman mounted her horse, and set off, pan niers, cloak and all, on her way to market. Anon 280 A YOUNG LADY AND THE HOUNDS. [lET. she heard a cry of hounds, and soon perceived a hare rapidly making towards her. The hare, how ever, took a turn and a leap, and got on the top of the hedge, as if it Avould say, " come, catch me," to the old woman. She Uked such hunting as this very weU, put forth her hand, secured the game, and popped it into the panniers, covered it over, and rode forward. She had not gone far, when great was her alarm on perceiving in the midst of the dis mal and solitary waste of Heathfield, advancing at full pace, a headless horse, bearing a black and grim rider, with horns sprouting from under a little jockey cap; and having a cloven foot thrust into one stirrup. He Avas surrounded by a pack of hounds, thus noticed by Mary Colling in her letter, printed in the little book, to her sister Anne, " Of hounds on Heathfield seen to rise. With horned heads aud flaraing eyes." They had, according to tradition, tails too, that whisked about and shone like fire, as the air itself had a strong sulphurous scent. These were signs not to be mistaken ; and the poor old AVoman knoAV in a raoraent, that huntsman and hounds Avere taking a ride from the regions beloAV. But it soon ap peared that hoAvever clever the devil might be, he Avas no conjurer ; for he very civilly asked the old lady if she could set him right, and point out Avhich way the hare Avas floAvn ? Probably she thought it no harm to return the father of lies an answer in his OAvn coin, so she boldly gave him a negative ; and he rode on, nothing suspecting the cheat. When he Avas out of sight, she soon perceived the hare in the panniers began to move, when, to her utter amaze ment, arose a beautiful young lady, all in white, who XXX.] A YOUNG LADY AND THE HOUNDS. 281 thus addressed her preserver : — " Good dame, I ad mire your courage ; and thank you for the kindness Avith Avhich you have saved me from a state of suffer ing that must not be told to human ears. Do not start Avhen I tell you that 1 am not an inhabitant of the earth. For a great crime comraitted during the tirae I dAvelt upon it, I was doomed, as a punishraent in the other Avorld, to be constantly pursued either above or beloAV ground by evil spirits, until I could get behind their tails, Avhilst they passed on in search of me. This difficult object, by your means, I have now happily eff'ected ; and as a roAvard for your Idnd- ness, I promise that all your hens shall lay tAvo eggs instead of one, and that your cows shall yield thei most plentiful store of milk all the year round ; that you shaU talk tAvice as much as you ever did before, and your husband stand no chance in any matter between you to be settled by the tongue. But be ware of the deril, and don't grumble about tithes ; for my eneray and yours raay do yoa an ill turn when he finds out you were clever enough to cheat even him ; since, like all great impostors, he does not like to be cheated himself. He can assume all shapes, excepting those of the lamb and the dove." The lady in white vanished, as all such Avhite ladies ought to do ; the old market-woman found the best possible luck that morning in her traffic ; and to this day the story goes in our toAvn, that from the Saviour of the world haring hallowed the form of the lamb, and the Holy Ghost that of the dove, they can never be assumed by the mortal enemy of the huinan race under any circumstances. One other story or two about his Satanic majesty, and I have done ; not doubting that those Avho are 282 STORIES OF THE DEVIL. [lET. followers of the " Satanic-school " in prose or verse wUl feel particularly obUged to me for these most authentic records of the prince they serve ; though possibly they may not extend his empfre quite so much as then- own labours ; as my tales represent the devU in no very sentimentalv ieAV, but rather tend to show him unmasked. And now for another story. Many years ago there Uved in this toAvn a cele brated singer, belonging to the choir of our church ; for Taristock church, I take this opportunity of say ing, has been, and is still, very famous for its choir, possessing a good organ to accompany the singers *. This person was rather apt to take a cup too much in the conrivial society of his friends. One night, returning very tipsy frora the village of Horrabridge, the donkey on Avhich he rode suddenly became frisky; and to the utter dismay of his rider, set off" and ran as never donkey ran before, leaping and kicking, towards a certain spot, were tipsy Tom saw a com pany of goblin spirits (and this is not unlike ' Tam o' Shanter's' adventure) dancing and frisking all in a ring. Having no mind to join the dance, Tom, somewhat restored to his senses by terror, laid about him most heartily, giving many a kick and cuff to the beast's sides and ears, and eagerly ex claimed, "Stop, Mr. Deril, stop, I say; I am a * It would be a great oraission to narae the choir without some particular mention of Miss Elizabeth Greco ; a young lady for whom I entertain much esteem. If placed iu more fortunate circumstances than those of vocalist in a country town, she would rank with the first singers of her day, and would be an ornament to St. Paul's or the Abbey. So rich and beautiful is her voice, so feeling and noble her expression in the anthems of Handel, that it raises the mind and aflfects the heart to listen to her. Since this note was written Miss Elizaheth Greco has left Tavistock for Ireland. XXX.] STORIES OF THE DEVIL. 283 righteous man, and a psalm-singer to boot in Ta- ¦ristock church; stop, or I'll give you such a stave as shaU startle all the derils in hell." With that Tom set up his pipes ; and the donkey sprite not en during to hear such melody, which exceeded even his own braying, sent the rider off" his back into the next ditch, where he was found by a neighbour; and teU ing his adventure, as an excuse for a black eye, he received the honorary title of "psalm-singer to Old Nick," aU the rest of his days. Another story we have concerning his Satanic majesty shoAVs him to be a great patron of fiddlers. Whenever he appeared before any one of these, he generally came in the shape of a gentleman, dressed in black, Arith Avhite ruffles round his Avrists ; and he nsuaUy made so Uberal a bargain that the sons of harmony Avere much pleased vrith him ; till they now and then happened to spy the cloven foot, a thing which he, Uke many other gentlemen of fashion, had no power to hide even in the best company. Now, the story goes, that in the time of the monks, a certain fiddler guessed with whom he had made some such bargain, and went to consult one of those ghostly brothers what he had best do for safety. The monk told the fiddler to act like a raan of honour, and always stick to a bargain though raade with the deril himself; or he would be sure to suff'er grievous things before the time came that the com pact should expire. But if, in the interval, a little coin Avas dropt to the brothers of the abbey, one of them would take his stand, and drive off Satan when he came to possess himself bodily of his prey. The doAil generaUy agreed to raeet his fiddler in a nar- 284 STORIES OF THE DEVIL. [lET. row lane; but Avhen he now found he could not nab him, he exclaimed, aUuding to the monk stationed in ambush near the spot — " 'Tis the blackbird be hind the hedge that keeps thee safe, thou scraper of old tunes, and foul railer against thy master. Know, fiddler mine, and I tell it thee only because I cannot help it, being compeUed to do so by the exorcisms of the brethren uoav going on at the abbey — that hadst thou never called for me, I had never ap peared. But look to thyself, friend, and blame not me. Has it not ever been with thee, when thou wast angry, in mirth, in sadness, in bargaining or in liquor ; ' I Arish the deril did this ; ' or, ' I Avish the devil had me;' or, 'I vrish the devil were here.' Devil here and devil there ; and yet now is he un welcome company. Go home, tune thy fiddle, play my lord abbot a psalm ; leave off profane SAvearing, and obey the monks, not failing to give them their dues, and fear no more dog nor devil for the nonce." Is not this story like one of the Old Moralities ? May it not be a vestige of one of thera, well known here in those days when the inhabitants of the mo nastery and the choir of the church acted holy plays ? Indeed, till Arithin the last thirty years, the boys of this town, so I am informed, used every Christmas to act a standing old play, handed down by tradi tion, called the Dying Miller. Father Christmas was one of the characters, the Noav Year another, and St. George performed sundry feats of valour. Mary Colling has A'ery kindly exerted herself to try if she could recover for me any of the traditionary doggrel assigned to the parts in this piece; some foAV lines of Avhich she could remember having heard XXX.] STORIES OF THE DEVIL. 285 when a child. But hitherto we have not succeeded; ' though many of the elders remember the characters, and the style in which they drest them. The most modern story I have heard of Satan is, that a youth of this neighbourhood Avent into the woods to pick nuts on a Sunday; and the devil, pleased to see him so employed instead of going to church, Idndly gave him assistance, and pulled down the bushes for him. The lad thought himself highly favoured, tUl he perceived the cloven foot; Avhen he instantly quitted the Avood, but soon after died. "This story," says Mary, "is still told by mothers to thefr little boys to prevent their break ing the sabbath." I now come to the vestiges of our ancient customs ; these having been gleaned by Mary and myself, but principally by her, amongst the good old folks ofthe town and neighbourhood. They are for the greater part fast wearing out, and two or three generations hence it is probable few traces may be left of their existence. Brand quotes a passage from Moresin, that tends to show that in ancient times, at the festival of St. Valentine, men made presents to the women, as the AVomen did to the men at other seasons. We have a vestige of this custom not altogether extinct ; for on St. Valentine's day a young woman soraetimes thus addresses the first young man she raeets : — " Good morrow, Valentine, I go to-day. To wear for you what you must pay, A pair of gloves next Easter day." And new gloves are generally sent on Easter eve by the young man Avhom any fair damsel may have selected to make her such a present by thus inriting 286 HOLIDAY SPORTS. [lET. him to do it. It is not, however, I am told, very common to send the gloves, unless there is a little sweethearting in the case. Washing clothes on a Good Friday is Arith us considered a great sin ; and productive of the Avorst luck. Whoever does so is sure to wash away one of their famUy, who vrill die before the year is out. To wean children on this day is deemed very lucky. Many people then begin to till thefr gardens, as they beUeve, to use their own words, that aU things put in the earth on a good Friday wUl grow goody, and retm-n to them Arith great increase. Shrove Tuesday is a noted day in our town, though not so much kept as it used to be many years ago. The farmers considered it a great holi day, and every person who was in thefr employ feasted on pancakes. The great sport of the day was to assemble round the ffre and each person to toss a cake before he had it for his supper. The awkwardness of the tossers, who were compelled to eat their share, even if it fell into the fire itself, aff"orded great diversion. Lent-crocking is a simUar sport, and is stiU here and there practised in some of the old houses in the country. Pairties of young persons would during Lent go to the most noted farm-houses, and sing, in order to obtain a crock (cake), an old song beginning "I see by the latch There is something to catch ; I see by fhe string The good dame's within ; Give a cake, for I've none ; At the door goes a stone, Come give, and I'm gone." If invited in, a cake, a cup of cider, and a health XXX.] OMir;OUS DAYS. 287 foUowed. If not inrited in, the sport consisted in battering the house door Arith stones, because not open to hospitality. Then the assailant would run aAvay, be foUowed and caught, and brought back again as prisoner, and had to undergo the punish ment of roasting the shoe. This consisted in an old shoe being hung up before the fire, which the culprit was obliged to keep in a constant whirl, roasting himself as well as the shoe, tUl some damsel took compassion on him and let him go ; in this case he was to treat her Arith a little present at the next fafr. It is here said, that if a young woman, on Mid summer-day, plucks a full-blown rose, blindfolded, while the chimes are playing twelve, and folds it up in a sheet of white paper, and does not open it till Christmas day, it wiU then be found as fresh as when gathered; and if she places it in her bosom, the young man to whom she is to be married wiU come and snatch it away. The poor people here have raany superstitious ideas about the days of the week. To begin to do anything on a Friday, or to make a journey, or a bargain on that day, is held such bad luck, that I have known persons, even of the better order, put off an affafr beca'use they would not enter on it with an Ul omen. The fortunes of children are Ukevrise considered to be very much regulated by the day on which they were born. Here is a poetical adage on the subject common in our toAvn : — " Monday's child is fair in face, Tuesday's child is full of grace, Wednesday's child is full of woe, Thursday's child has far to go, 288 HOLIDAY SPORTS. [lET. Friday's child is loving and giving, Saturday's child works hard for its living ; And a child that 's born on a Christmas day, Is fair aud wise, good and gay." The 29th of May is still a holiday much observed in our toAvn, though, I am told, far less so than it used to be some years back. A notion prevailed that, on that day, any person might cut oak boughs Avherever he pleased, provided it Avas done before six o'clock, and the youths and maidens Avould rise Avith the light to prepare for the sports. These oak boughs Avere hung around the doors and windows ; and chaplets, &c, duly placed in bonnets and hats. In the afternoon, a mock battle followed, (originally intended, as far as I can coUect, to represent the republican and monarchical parties,) the combatants of Avhich, on the royal side, were armed with kettles and buckets of Avater, The republicans proceeded to tear doAvn the oak boughs from the doors and Avindows : and these assailants were well drenched Avhilst a scuffle ensued — all carried on with the ut most good humour — and if the young men succeeded in getting the boughs, they used to tie them toge ther and drag them through the town in token of Aictory ; but Avere generally Avaylaid and dispossessed of their trophies by the opposite party. The inha bitants Avould give them pence to make merry with after their frolic, HoAVOA'er, during one of these frolics, about thirty years ago, rather an unpleasant affair took place from the following circumstance. This ricinity was a great depot for French prisoners ; and sorae of the officers lodged in the town. Opposite a house where one of thera resided, Avas erected a grand display of oak boughs and May bushes on the top of a long XXX.J HOLIDAY SPORTS. 289 pole. Some mischievous individual persuaded the foreigner that it was a part of the sports for some person, as a good joke, to remove it, and persuaded Monsieur to perform the feat. He, thinking no harm, did so, when a stout old fellow, a true John BuU, who lived near, seeing this act committed by the Frenchman, considered it a premeditated insult to the royal family of England, as the oak boughs Avere suspended in honour of the restoration to the croAvn. Fired with rage, he sallied forth armed Avith a poker, and commenced so vigorous an assault on the poor foreigner, that had not the more peaceably disposed interfered and made up matters, he Avould very likely have left the luckless offender scarcely a Avhole bone in his skin. Amongst the little boys, this day goes by the narae oi garland day*. Before it arrives, the children go about in parties, six or seven together, halfing, as they call it. This custom is nothing raore than to collect as raany birds' eggs as they can against garland day ; and all the neigh bours, high or low, who happen to be possessed of a garden, are duly teazed and laid under contribution to give away their flowers to make trophies. The garlands are carried about thus formed — :two crossed hoops are entArined Avith flowers, and strung with birds' eggs in the middle; every egg being held allowable, save that of the redbreast; if such is discovered in a garland it is quickly assailed with stones and destroyed. Very few children in this * I have now and then heard garlands called by the old name Coronets, in Devonshire. We have here still in common use many obsolete words ; such as barm for yeast ; Glome, earthenware ; Hei- Her, slater; Helling, roof; Slock, to entice; Distraught, and mazed mad ; IVorsen, to render worse, &c., and indeed sufficient to supply a long list of old words. VOL. 11. O 290 HOLIDAY SPORTS. [lET. town would hurt a redbreast, as it is considered unlucky to do so ; this bird being entitled to kind ness from the human race above every other bird that flies, Mary CoUing thinks it is held thus sacred from the sympathy excited for it by that most beautiful of all ballads, ' The Children in the Wood ;' where the redbreast covers the poor little things with leaves. But I am rather disposed to think that in the ballad the robin is assigned, by the poet, to perform that charitable office in consequence of his tenderness and sympathy for man ; as, of all birds, robin is most confiding and fearless in his approaches towards us ; he comes familiarly to our doors ; he will not hesitate to enter our dwellings, and may be tamed to pick crumbs from our hands. The peasantry here have a most uncouth name for tlus pretty bird ; they call it pausty-legs. I could not guess even what this name meant, tUl Mr. Johnes told me it Avas intended for posty-legs, or legs like a post. To return from this digression : the little boys are fantastically dressed early in the morning Arith ribands tied round their arras and Avaists, and a smart garland cap on their heads, made of pasteboard, decorated Arith gold paper, and Uttle prints with a gUt border, finished Arith oak leaves intermixed. Thus equipped, they parade about the town, each little party by itself; the leader, Avho is generally the eldest boy, carries the garland. Others have httle drums, and Avhistles, and swords of lath ; a triangle is their music : they coUect the donations of the public ; and in the afternoon it is equally dirided among thera. The garland eggs are placed on some block or post ; and their great amusement is to throw XXX.] ANCIENT SUPERSTITIONS. 291 stones, and try Avho can break the most. This is our Taristock Avay of celebrating King Charles's Restoration, amongst the younger tribe. The elders go to church, and Mr, Bray annually gives them an appropriate sermon. We have here many vestiges of andent super stitions. That respecting Midsummer eve I have before noticed. And the very old custom of going into the church at night whilst the chimes are playing twelve o'clock, in order to creep three tiraes under the communion table to be cured of fits, is still held in repute. The present sexton, Mr. James Cole, has been applied to in such cases to unlock the church door. Mr. Bray considers this custom a vestige ofthe A'ery ancient one of creeping under the Tolmen to be cured of various disorders.* We have another practice, which I am assured is frequently observed as a cure for the tooth-ache : a very general complaint in this neighbourhood, where it is common to see young women with not a sound front tooth in their heads ; and many a handsome face is thus spoilt and looks old before its time. I attribute this to the use of a very acid cider as a daily beve rage ; nor do I think I am mistaken ; as the decay of the teeth, so early in life, is most common Arith the servant girls and lower orders, Avho never drink any thing else Arith their meals ; whUst some of the very * Since writing the above, Mr. Bray received, as clergyman of the place, the following letter: I orait only the name of the writer — " Rev. Sir, I should take it as a great favour if your Honour would be good enough to let me have the key of the churchyard to-night, to go in at twelve o'clock, to cut off three bits of lead about the size of a half fa,rthing ; each from three different shuts (meaning spouts), for the cure of fits. Sir, I reraain your humbled obedient servant, ' " Tavistock, February 2d, 1835. (Signed) J. M," o2 292 ANCIENT SUPERSTITION.?. [lET. poor cottagers in the surrounding country, Avho seldom taste anything stronger than water, or milk and water, often have teeth Avhite and sound as pearls. Here is the cure for the tooth-ache : if the sufferer have a tooth left sufficiently whole to enable him to use it. " Take an old skull found in the churchyard, bite a tooth out of it, and keep it in your pocket all the year round, and never more will you have pain in your teeth or gums." I have copied this delectable receipt as given to me ; and only this very day, had I not been too lazy to stir from my room, I raight have had the gratifi cation of seeing a scrarable after old teeth in a skull. For Miss EUzabeth Greco (of whora I spoke just now in the note) had a iicav piece of music Avhich she thought I should like, and very Idndly came to play and sing it to me ; she asked me if I kneAV Avhat Avas going on in the churchyard, so many persons, old and young, were thronging- to it. Scarcely had she spoken, Avhen Mary Colling came running- in, and said if I wanted to see an old custom she had told me of, I had only to go to the churchyard, for several skulls having, in making a grave, been dug up near the reraains of Orgar's tomb, there was going on such a scene as she had never before vritnessed : men and Avomen tugging Avith their mouths at every tooth they could find left to cure them. I felt quite satisfied, however, Avitli her report, and Miss Eliza beth and the piano being a much greater attraction did not stir frora the fire-side. Our terror of meeting a single magpie crossing our path is very great. Sad must be the fortune of any person who has this mishap — sad I am sure then must be mine ; for the last I called magpie XXX.] ANCIENT SUPERSTITIONS. 293 year ; never once did we ride, Avalk, or drive along the Plj'mouth road, a favourite ride of ours, with out meeting a solitary magpie strutting or flying most ominously across the road. Now and then Ave saAv a couple, Avhich is good luck; once three, a sign of a Avedding ; and once four, a sign of death. We have a thistle that is considered holy. I do not know its particular species ; but the plant itself is noble and beautiful. One of them, above five feet in height, sprang up Avildly in our garden in the midst of a strawberry bed. It had a large purple flower, and the steins and leaves spread to a A'ery great extent. So rauch did Mr. Bray adraire it, that he Avould not suffer it to be disturbed. This plant is valuable in a raedicinal riew ; the old Avomen here say it is a cure for all disorders ; and when I Avas so ill last summer, more than one wanted to persuade me to make a decoction and try it. On the leaves of this thistle there are Avhite specks, Avhich I learn from the venerable authority just quoted, is occasioned by the Virgin Mary having sprinkled her milk on this very plant during her flight into Egypt. This conferred a blessing on the thistle and made it sa lutary for ever. I here say nothing about the "thousand and one" charms Ave have in this county for curing the king's eril ; some of them being as delicately pleasing as the cure for the tooth-ache ; let them go ; the least offensive, however, is that of Queen Anne's farthing, a stale and common charm in many counties. Reading the eighth psalra over the heads of in fants three times three days in the Aveek, for three following weeks, will, they say, prevent babes hav ing the thi-ush. Another very old custom prevails 294 SUPERSTITIOUS USAGES. [lET. amongst the poor, that of unlocking their boxes in the house Avhere a friend is dying : they con sider it makes the sick person die easy. As we have unlucky omens, so have we likewise lucky ones. The sun shining on the bride going to church is particularly fortunate. It is fortunate, also, to see the noAV moon on the right hand ; and when you do so, it is a prudent thing to shake your pockets : for what purpose I cannot tell ; but as it is likcArise deemed Arisdom to puU out your money and let the iicav moon shine upon it, I suppose it is connected Avith good fortune in a pecuniary point of view. Another of our customs is not, I believe, confined to this place ; it is that of the Bible and the key. Many old people Avhen they have lost anything, and suspect it to be stolen, take the fore-door key of their dwelling, and, in order to find out the thief, tie this key to the Bible, placing it very carefully on the eighteenth verse of the fiftieth psalra. Two persons raust then hold up the book by the bow of the key, and first repeat the name of the suspected thief, and then the verse fi-om the psalm. If the Bible moves, the suspected person is considered guilty ; if it does not move, innocent. Mary CoUing tells me she has very gravely seen this done, as an infallible test of finding out the truth. When the poor get a loaf frora the flour of new corn, the first Avho gets it gives a raouthful, as they say, to his or her neighbour, and they fill their mouths as full as they can in order not to Avant bread before the harvest comes round again. Mary informs me that one day when herself and her little dog Dimpler took a walk into the country XXX.] A SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGE. 295 very loringly together, she happened to pass by a cottage and garden. Pleased with the neatness and prettiness of the spot, she stayed awhile to look on the flowers. A poor woraan, seeing- she did so, carae out, asked her to Avalk in, and gave her a very pretty nosegay. Mary observed in the cottage window several beautiful plants, each having a small piece of black crape or riband tied around it. She inquired what might be the reason of their being so decorated. When the poor woman told her, vrith a sigh, that she had very lately buried her husband, and if she had not put the plants into mourning they would have died too. Mary was much affected by the distress she evidently saw put ting these questions had given the poor widoAV, and said she was sorry she had asked about the plants. But the widow told her not to grieve for that ; the question was natural enough for one who came from a toAvn, but the custom was a usual thing in the country. There is much talk in this place about a myste rious and subterranean passage (I should like to find it out), that leads all the Avay from the Abbey to the gateway of Fitz-ford. A great deal of Avealth in coin and plate, including, as I was told, "a cru cifix as large as life," being there deposited. Mary heard an old woman say that she was told by her great-grandmother, that during the civil wars a waggon load of plate was carried in there, and never afterwards brought out. An inhabitant of this town, I am likewise informed, once discovered, whUst rooting up an apple-tree at Fitz-ford, some steps; and digging stUl deeper, found an entrance which led under ground. Several persons went 296 A SUBTERRANE.'iN PASSAGE, [lET, doAvn, but none presumed to follow up the discovery as it ought to have been foUoAved, I hCar, also (but pray observe I do not vouch for the truth of any of these tales), that a man naraed Bickley, AvhUst eraployed in raising sand in a place called Jessop's Hay, dug up, as he imagined, a bag of fine sand, which proved to be a bag of gold dust. He also discovered a paveraent supposed to be that of the passage. Every body, I observe, has a tale to tell about this old passage; but question thera closely, and you are sure to find they heard it frora some body, who heard it from somebody else, and so on — a sort of evidence to be cautiously admitted in a statement of facts. That there was a passage, however, belonging to, or connected Avith, the Abbey, is not at all impro bable ; and if I Avere inclined to csedit any of the aboA'e stories, it Avould be the old woman's about the plate. Because, as I shall relate when we come to the times of Charles the First, Fitz-ford house Avas bravely held out by the royalists, and taken by storm by the Parliament party. The prisoners Avere not likely to point out to sequestrators and republicans where they had hidden the wealth, probably of all the royalists in the toAvn, who had taken shelter in Fitz-ford, and assisted in the defence of that man sion; and time, death, and many other chances might, in such perils, have intervened to prevent its recovery. More of this hereafter, I was about to conclude this long " and very pithy " letter (as a good friend of mine calls the stibjects on AA'hich I have been Avriting), vvhen Mary Colling, who always acts as her own postman, brought me one written by herself, in reply to some questions XXX,] MARY COLLING's LETTER. 297 I had proposed to her, about certain places, &c., in our toAvn. I shall here, therefore, transcribe a por tion of her letter, as it avUI give you a fair speciraen of her prose style. Many are the authors and au thoresses of this day Avho, fi-om not being, like Mary, content to follow nature, and to wi-ite as they Avould talk, produce a less pleasing mode of expression than the foUoAving. "TO MRS. BRAY. " My dear Madam, " On the south side of the Tavy is a hamlet consisting of several cottages, called in the parish register Dolrins, but better known to the inhabit ants by the name of Guernsey, that nick-name having been given to it in consequence of a very noted smuggler who resided there sorae years ago. At a little distance eastward is another hamlet, called Greenland, from its cold situation ; the sun seldom shines upon it, as it is overhung Avith a very high rock Avhence issue several springs of water; and during the Arinter the icicles (or, as the Uttle boys call them, the cockables) which hang from it, are looked upon as a great curiosity, from their size and transparency. The Exeter road, opposite this hamlet, affords a picturesque riew of the bright stream of Avater from the rock which dashes into your favourite Tavy. Near is a rookery and an orchard, that in summer adds to the beauty of the scene. The Arild floAvers, Avhich there grow in abun dance, have also a pretty appearance ; and though the place is considered so cold, there is a very good garden that abounds with various sorts of floAvers. o3 298 MARY colling's letter. [let. The female who resides in a neat cottage attached to it, takes great pride in her garden, every corner of it having a something to boast of. "In reply to the question about the haunted house, I have learned the follovring particulars. About half a mile from Taristock there is a farm called DoAvn House, the dweUing itself was rebuilt about eleven or twelve years ago. It Avas con sidered before an ancient place, and haunted by ghosts. Here is a story of one. The family who resided there well kneAV the hour of the night in which the ghosts raade their appearance, and always took care to go to bed before it came. But it hap pened on a time that a chUd Avas very ill, and asked its mother for Avatcr ; she Avent to the pitcher to get some, when the child refused any but such as might be got dfrectly fi-om the pump. The mother be carae quite distressed, unvrilling to displease the child, yet afraid to go down to the pump, as it Avas about the hour in Avhich the ghost walked. She considered upon it a little while, and the child stUl continuing very anxious about the water, she at last said, ' In the name of God I avUI go down.' She did so. Passing over the stairs she perceived a shadoAV, and then she heard footsteps; and when she came to the pump she felt a hand on her shoul der. She turned and perceived a tall raan. Sum moning a good resolution, hoAvevcr, she said, 'In the name of God, Avhy troublest thou me?' The ghost replied, 'It is weU for thee that thou hast spoken to me in the name of God ; this being the last time aUotted me to trouble this world, or else I should haA'e injured thee. Now do as I teU thee. XXX.] story of lady HOWARD. 299 and be not afraid. Corae with rae and I AviU direct thee to a soraething Avhicli shall reraove this pump : under it is concealed treasure.' " This sometlUng was procured, and applied as the ghost directed. The pump was qmckly reraoved, when under it there lay a great deal of money. She was desired to take up the treasure and stock her farm Avith it. And the spirit told her that if ever any person molested or deprived her of her property, he should suffer Avell for it. He then or dered her to go and give the water to the child, who, in reward for her courage and trust in God, should recover. The cock crew ; directly the figure dwindled again to a shadow, ascended through the air, and she Avatched till he soon became a small bright cloud." " There is," says Mary Colling, in another letter, " scarcely an old man or AVoman in Tavistock but can tell sorae story or other about your Lady How ard. Some have seen her in the shape of a calf; others as a wool-sack full of eyes, rolling along from Fitz-ford. But most have seen her as a greyhound, and very often in the coach of bones, as described by you in Fitz of Fitz-ford, This story is frequently told of her : Two servant girls, whose sweethearts came one Sunday evening to see them, being informed they intended to get up early the foUoAring morn ing to washing, offered to corae to the house, at the hour named, for company. The servants were very glad of this, as the house was so haunted, according to report. The young men, anxious to fulfil their promise, determined to get up early. One heard Taristock chimes play at twelve o'clock and con cluded it was four. He arose, awoke his com- 300 STORY OF LADY HOWARD. [lET. panion, and they went together to Fitz-ford. When they came there, the doors being open and the fires all lighted, they thought that the servants Avere gone up stairs to prepare the clothes, &c. They agreed upon playing a trick, and got under the stairs in order to frighten the maids. Soon after they heard footsteps, and, peeping out cautiously, they saw tAvo very large black dogs, Avith eyes as big as saucers, and fiery tongues, Avhich hung out of their mouths. The young men thought at all events they had best remain quiet, which they did till cock-croAving ; Avhcn directly the dogs vanished, the fires Avent out, and the doors instantly closed. Soon after the servants came doAvn stairs, and on hearing this story became so alarmed that they determined to quit Fitz-ford. But on recollecting they were each the first-born of their parents, they felt they Avere safe ; as it is said that no Avitch, ghost, or pixy can injure the first born child. They became, therefore, reconciled to the place." Thus ends Mary Colling's account, and ray letter too, haring sent quite enough hobgoblins for one packet ; and lest the post-office should be troubled, and complain to Sir Frauds Frecling if I send more, I AvUl conclude with vrishing you may be, my dear Sir, ghost-free all your days, saving from a few Aisits of Sir Thomas More, the renoAval of Avliose ' Colloquies ' in the library of Keswick, would be a very desirable event for the public, and in which no individual of that body would feel a greater in terest than your Very gratefully obliged, And most faithful servant, Anna E. Bray. XXXI.] 301 LETTER XXXI. TO ROBERT SOUTHEY, ESQ. Contents. — Old house in the neighbourhood — Superstitions about it — Allusions to Baretti — Reflections on the decay of greatness — Old buildings — Kilworthy ; huilt by the Glanviile family temp. Elizabeth — The old raansion and its present state described — The hall, the gardens and terraces — .\venue of old heech-trees — One spot peculiarly beautiful ; now called the Pixies' Pool — Devonshire Rysdael, Mr. John Hitchins^ — Kilworthy hill, the ascent rugged and steep — Fine view frora the heights — Custom of cutting down the trees in hedges injurious to the landscape — Suffered to grow in them near Exeter — -Walla Brook — Ina's Coomhe — Browne and Carrington ; their poetry quoted — Judge Glanviile ; a sketch of his life given — His tomb in Tavistock church — Effigies of himself and lady — Remarks on each — A philosopher's opinion of women not always to be credited — All fhe real history of Judge GlanviUe concluded ; the traditionary stated — Whence derived — Fictions by the writer in the novel of Fitz of Fitz-ford, now told in Tavistock as traditions — This error corrected — The real traditions ou which the work was founded given — Copy of a letter hy Mr. Bray to the late Mr. Daniel Lysons, giving the striking traditionary tale of Judge Glanviile and his daughter — The first idea, and plan of grounding on this a tale of romance — Character of Betsy Grirabal ; on what founded — Lady Howard, a character — The gateway at Fitz-ford, the spectre hound — The coach of hones — Tales of super stition, by whom credited — The writer goes to Fitz-ford to recon noitre — The plot of the tale formed on the spot — The hound named — Mr. Lewis, jun,, his sketch of the blood-hound — Character of Levi the jew, suggested by an acquaintance with an honest Israelite — Attempt to depict him in the novel — The story of John Fitz, of Fitz-ford, the lawyer and astrologer, and Sir Nicholas Slanniug, given exactly as found in Prince's " Worthies of Devon," Their epitaph — How far the novel follows the story, and where it deviates — Sir John Page, said to have married a daughter of Glanviile ; Sir John a merchant of Plymouth — -His house in that town — When pulled down — Page's coffin found and opened — Curiosity of the populace to see it — No authority but that of tradition in support of 302 CONTENTS, [let, the truth of the very striking incident related of Judge GlanviUe and his daughter — The tradition probably arose from some con fusion about the story of Judge Hody and his son, as related hy Prince — Lamentable tragedy of Page of Plymouth ; a drama, temp, Elizabeth — ^Another interesting tale respecting a son of Judge Glanviile, mentioned by Prince — Sketch of the life of Sir John Glanviile, Serjeant at law — His birth and education — Reraoves to Lincoln's Inn — Returned as burgess for Plymouth — Becoraes Serjeant at law, and Speaker of the House of Coraraons — His worthy conduct in the House — Is knighted by the king — His enemies cause his sufferings — Glanviile distinguished in the committee respecting subsidies — Hampden, seeing the temper of the House adverse to the king, calls for the " Question" — Serjeant Glanville's meritorious conduct and speech on the occasiou — He produces a powerful effect on the House — His allusions to the ship-money cause offend the court — Dissolution of Parliament — Feeling of different parties npon it — Imprudence of the king in that disso lution — Civil war declared — GlanviUe follows the fortunes of the persecuted king at Oxford — He is created doctor of civil law in the Convocation, 1643 — Glanviile pronounced a desperate malignant ; he is seized and committed to prison — Not released till 1648 — His estates fined — Glanviile six times a prisoner in the course of his life — University of Oxford return hira as their burgess — Cromwell will not allow him to sit in the House — He pleads as a lawyer, and at his own peril, the cause of fhe loyalists — GlanviUe, the first friend of Sir Matthew Hale — Araiable character of GlanviUe — The beautiful story of Glanville's conduct to his brother Francis related — Francis knighted by Charles II He marries a daughter of Cryraes, Esq, of Devon — Death of the great Sir John Glanviile — Buried at Broad Hinton — The estate of Kilworthy eventually passed to fhe family of Manaton, in defa-ult of male issue — Manu script sent to the writer whilst engaged on his life — A charity there recorded bestowed by him to send a poor boy from Tavistock to the University — Glanviile fhe friend of learning — His works political — Some of his speeches preserved in Rushworth — His lines to Browne the poet — The sons of the Serjeant distinguished — John, a counsellor at law — Francis, another son, a youth of the greatest promise ; joins the royal cause, and after the most gallant conduct falls at Bridgwater, 1645 — Joseph GlanviUe, chaplain in ordinary to Charles I, — Some account of him — ^The last descendant of the elder branch of this illustrious family died a few years ago in the poor- house of Bradstone — Sir John Maynard born in Tavistock — His family — His early life ; conduct in the tirae of Charles I. — His integrity ; a true friend to the Protestant Church — Member for XXXI,] KILWORTHY. 303 Beer Alston — Little known of his private life — His charities and worth — His reply to King WiUiara when above ninety years old His death — No traditions of hira in Tavistock. Vicarage, Tavistock, January 28th, 1833. My dear Sir, There is an old house and domain in this neighbourhood, which has often set me moraUzing, as did Baretti, when shut up in his post-chaise, on the rainy afternoon he drove frem Taristock to Horse Bridge. There are so raany recollections of former tiraes, of old tales and traditions connected with the domain in question, that it is the finest place possible for the indulgence of imagination; and though, as you will presently find, you are not altogether a stranger to it, yet I purpose in this letter to make you still more intimately acquainted with the localities of Kilworthy ; nor shall I let you off till Judge GlanviUe, the founder of the mansion, and his sons and his grandsons have passed in suc cession before you ; even as did the ghosts before Macbeth in the cave of the witches ; nor raust you suppose this to be by any raeans an inappropriate simile ; for if you did not really see these shadows of the mighty, of former generations, in our parish of Tavistock, you might see thera (if report speaks truth), which is much the same thing, by only risit ing Kilworthy at the dead hour of night, " the bell then beating one," when " churchyards yawn, and graves give up their dead." It is undoubtedly true that though I have heard a great deal about the "walking of the old Judge," I never yet had the pleasure to meet him. Possibly, however, this may arise from no want of civility on his part towards me 304 KILWORTHY. [lET. who have already made him figure in print, but may rather be the consequence of the peculiar circum stances attending my birth ; for having had the good fortune to be born on Christmas-day, my old nurse used to teU me when a child, " I could never see a ghostie as long as I lived," all persons so born being ghost-free to the end of their days. Thus, therefore, you find I am reduced to the necessity of giving you all my stories of this nature on the credit of others, and not on that of my own eyes ; a thing I deem a great misfortune, because sometimes when people are good enough to tell rae a foAV " real facts," that somcAvhat startle my belief, I am so mistrustful and incredulous to Avish for ocular demonstration. Of these real facts I shall have a few to tell b)' and bye, Avhen we come to a chapter on the Avonderful ; but at present Ave are about to visit Kilworthy; and though it is the most delightful place for a ramble, especially in Gam- marby Avood, yet I must here keep straight on, or there Avill be no end to this letter ; a beginning, middle, and ending being as necessary, I presume, in observing the unities in a letter as in any other description of composition. Here then follows ray beginning, and as we are but yet, like Baretti, on the way, it shall be somewhat in his moralizing strain ; and that will do for a preface. There is a melancholy feeling which constantly assails us when we witness the decay of greatness, either in animate or inanimate things ; ever accom panied by that humiliating reflection so often made the raoral of tomb-stones and monuments — Sic transit gloria mundi. How fully do Ave experience this feeling Avhen Ave look upon the walls of some old XXXI.] KILWORTHY. 305 but once stately mansion falling to decay, or patched and supported by meaner buildings, wholly incon gruous in date and appearance vrith the original edifice ! And though nature and art agree very well together, where they have been purposely combined, yet this is not the case where the former breaks in upon the latter Avith a desolating hand. Thus, when in an old-fashioned garden Ave see the hedges of box and of yew that once Avere trimmed and clipped into order and formality, now growing ragged and Avild ; the long avenues left between thera choked up Avith brambles and Aveeds ; Avhilst many a stately terrace of hewn stone presents the mere wreck of fallen greatness ; its steps green, tottering, broken, and half covered with creeping plants; — the aspect of the Avliole is so cheerless, that it calls up in the mind nothing but a sense of the vanity and littleness of the works of man in these adornments of his domestic habitation. Such are the feelings I have more than once experienced when risiting the now humbled remains of Kilworthy, once the splendid mansion of the GlanviUes, a family long distinguished in Devon : the house Avas built by them in the reign of Eliza beth. This structure partook of that combination of heavy and clumsy ornament common to the period, yet rendered imposing by the grandeur that cha racterized the original proportions of the building to Avhich it was appended. The front of Kilworthy (I speak of what it was, not Avhat it is), facing the south, displayed many a window, dirided in the midst by mulUons, so large and broad that they not a little obscured the light the windows were intended to admit. 306 KILWORTHY. [lET. A smaU tower, not unlike the top of a pepper box, stood at either end of the building, that was itself surmounted by a lugh and slanting roof. Along the front the parapet Avas embattled, and a noble cluster of chiraneys rose to a considerable height, and displayed thefr ornaraented caps far above every other part of the building. A projecting porch stood before the principal entrance ; over the outward door of Avhich appeared, carved in stone, the arms of GlanviUe : three crosses, in the form of that called St. Andrew's, in the language of heraldry, three saltier s or, on a field azure. The date of the buUding Avas beneath, likewise carved in stone. Sueh was KUworthy ; but it no longer appears in its original form. It underwent considerable altera tions in the reign of Charles II., and, lastly and still worse, in that of George III., Avhen, nearly sixty years since, the front was entirely modernized. In a long passage of the house, as weU as in one of its chambers, may stUl be seen a vast number of paint ings on panel, representing, in succession, the arms, alliances, &c., of the family of Glanrille, for many generations. The hall, though now but a vestige of what it once was, shows enough to indicate its former grandeur : it was originally lofty — it is now low, and divided by a partition. The hall Avas panelled on either side Arith oak, and had a fire place large enough to contain several persons Arithin its ample sides. I can fancy Avhat it was in the Judge's .time, when the dogs or andirons, that sup ported the blazing logs, were, no doubt, finished at their tops Avith solid and chased silver. The re cesses stiU seen in the hall must have been a more modern construction, since neither these, nor the XXXI.] KILWORTHY. 307 gilded Corinthian capitals of the pilasters, are older than the time of Charles II. The gardens of Kilworthy, where slight traces of thefr ancient grandeur may even yet be seen, Avere on a scale suited to the place. They ran along the side of an elevated piece of ground to the west of the house ; being entered through a pair of ample gates, on whose supporters appeared, at the top of either, a formidable Uon rampant, holding in his claws the saltier or, or cross of the Glanrilles, and froAvning augustly upon all intruders. These, I Avill venture to say, in the Judge's days, did not half so weU guard the golden fruits of the Hesperides vrithin, as did one of those large and fierce hounds, then so constantly found to perforra the part of watch at the doors of the wealthy. The lions, and the original gates of wrought iron, are now gone ; but opening those wooden ones that have succeeded to their place, a second and third sort of terrace leads on to the rising garden (the steepness of the ascent being thus broken), and many a gay parterre, no doubt, once lay around exhibiting an endless diver sity of flowers and plants. When I saAv the gar dens of Kilworthy, in their more humble state, there were some beautiful roses in them, and a fine show of fruit. Kilworthy had once a chapel, but that has long disappeared, or has been converted into one of the bams. The dove-cot, stables, and other offices stood near enough to the house for domestic convenience, yet not so near as to become an annoy ance to the family residing in it. A noble avenue of old beech trees, their trunks overgrown with moss, and affording the deepest shade, led on the way from the then principal road 308 KILAA'ORTHY. [lET. to the mansion, affording the passenger here and there those peeps of landscape, and of the Dartmoor heights, between their trunks and branches, always so welcorae to the lover of the picturesque. These beech-trees still remain, venerable fi-om time, and happily untouched by the axe. There are also some very aged ones of exceeding beauty, in Avhat Avas once the park, Avhere the red deer used to graze on the perpetual herbage this climate secures to our fields. There is one place in KilAVorthy Avhich deserves pecuUar notice; it is where formerly a pond was supplied by a pretty little streamlet that runs meandering through the grounds. Above this, at the spot I allude to, an old broken bridge of a single arch, and miniature dimensions, still crosses it. The spot is so hung with aged trees, their roots starting from the banks, and overshadowing with their green arms the rippling waters, that it is the very scene in which one would fancy the pixies and fays make their haunts. Here the space is not large ; the eye cannot Avander beyond its green en closure of deep boughs. All is still and apparently reraote fi-ora huraan habitation : so sheltered is it fi-om the Avinds that they seldora Avander here in rude gusts. The birds are very fond of this place to build then- nests in it, and seldom have I visited it Arithout being struck by the peculiar effect produced by that Avild music, so sweet to the ear of fancy, that they made among the boughs, Avhilst the vocalists them selves Avere often unseen. The notes of the black bird and the thrush mingled delightftiUy Avith the very gentlest murraur of the very softest stream. And this I used to fancy Avas exactly such a spot as that where Ariel led Ferdinand by the guidance XXXI.] PIXIES' POOL. 309 of an unseen minstrel. I could almost imagine I saAV him looking round with wonder, as he ex claimed, " Where should this music be ? i' the air. Or fhe earth P It sounds no more, Yet it crept by me upon the waters.'' This place has, since I endeavoured to describe a scene suggested by it, received the name of the Pixies' Pool. And our Devonshire Rysdael, Mr. John Hitchins, Avhose genius is not less remarkable than the slight value ho attaches to it, has made sorae most beautiful drawings of this spot. Few, scenes, indeed, avUI afford to the mind of the painter and the poet a more calm and contemplative plea sure, than that experienced whilst listening to the vrild songs of the birds, and looking on the still and clear shadows in the Pixies' Pool. But I must not indulge this descriptive mood, well knovring that I may tire you, and that when once 1 get on a favourite spot I find it difficult to leave it. Should any tourist, Avho may chance to visit the beautiful vicinity of Tavistock, ascend the hill to the north of our town, and visit Kilworthy, the Ayalk will be good for his health, and Avill cer tainly soon give him the assurance, if he can bear the ascent, that he is (as the jockeys say of a horse) sound in vrind ; since a more steep, rough, or rug ged path Avill scarcely be found near any town in the county of Devon. Yet the acclivity once mas tered, he Avill be amply repaid for the trouble by the pleasing variety of objects that form the sur rounding vieAV. Tavistock, Avith the clustering pinnacles of what remains of its venerable abbey, the Tavy winding 310 WALLA BROOK. [lET. beautifiilly amidst a long extent of valley, closed in by hiUs partially clothed with wood (in Judge Glan ville's time they were more so), presents, at every turn, a scene of peculiar interest, and one that might be rendered more so if those who have the management of the lands in this part of Devon (and should they ever see this letter, I hope they will not despise the hint) would but folloAv the example of the neighbourhood of Exeter, and suffer the trees to grow up in the hedges as they do near that an cient city, and not indulge the fondness for lopping, which now permits the axe to be laid to the trunk of every sapling that dares lift its head above the prescribed height of each hedge- enclosed field. I hope to see this improvement, so that the landscape, a thing not so subject to the mutations of time as are buildings of stone or wood, may again become as waving with forest trees as it was when viewed by the GlanviUes fi-om their sj'lvan grounds of Kil worthy. Once more to return to their dAvelling. To the east, though at some distance frora the steep hill on which the house stood, the ground runs in a precipitous descent towards the valley, through which floAvs the little stream of the Walla Brook, visiting in its course Inas Coombe. This coombe and the Avaters must be considered vrith interest, and the Walla, indeed, ranked amongst the clas sical fountains of England, since each has been cele brated by BroAvne in his 'Britannia's Pastorals.' Browne, born in Tavistock, and possessing that love of nature inherent in the breast of every child of song, deUghted to describe the beautiful scenery of his native place, and with him the Avanderer through Kilworthy may truly exclaim. XXXI.] JUDGE GLANVILLE. 311 " Show rae who can so many christall rylls. Such sweet-clothed valleys, or aspiring hills." And to this encomium may be fairly added that of another poet of our neighbourhood, too early lost to us : Carrington thus wTites, " Lovely Devonia ! land of flowers and songs ! To thee the duteous lay. Thou hast a cloud For ever in thy sky — a breeze, a shower For ever on thy meads ; yet where shall man, Pursuing spring around the globe, refresh His eye with scenes more beauteous than adorn Thy fields of matchless verdure ?" Having now endeavoured to give you some idea of Kilworthy, I shall proceed to raention all I have been able to learn, both from written record and tradition, concerning the family who built and re sided in that mansion. "Sir John GlanvUle," says Prince, "one of the justices of the Comraon Pleas, was a native of this county, and born in the faraous town of Tavistock." He goes on to state, though he is not certain of the fact, that this gentleraan was descended fi-om Ranulph de Glanril, a great man in the days of WUliam the Conqueror ; and his grandson, he tells us, was a still greater in the times of Henry II.; for he was a baron of Parliament, and so skUled in the laws of the realm that he was made one of the jus tices itinerant in the twenty-fifth year of that king's reign ; and soon after raised to the dignity of " Jus tice of all England." Thus early was a Glanviile celebrated for his profound knowledge of the laws, and his posterity appear to have inherited his apti tude for the legal profession. John, the subject of this sketch, being but a younger branch of their stately tree, had not the 312 JUDGE GLANVILLE. [lET. advantage of a university education, and commenced his career in no more eminent station than that of an attorney at law. HoAvever he might be wanting in the early benefits conferred by regular study in the schools of learning, he had so much perseverance that, after he entered himself of the society of Lin coln's Inn, he rose into great proraise and reputa tion, having applied his mind Avith indefatigable industry to the study of the profession. In the thirty-first year of Elizabeth's reign, 1589, he Avas called to the bar, and a foAV years after chosen Lent reader in his house ; and, being nearly at the same time summoned to the degree of serjeant at law, he read in the following autumn. His reputation (as it is often seen vrith persons of real merit) con stantly increased Avith every favouring opportunity he found of bringing his talents into play. Glan viUe was soon deemed worthy higher preferment, so that in 1598 he was made one of the justices of Coramon Pleas — an office he fiUed with the great est honour and integrity. This, however, he did not long enjoy, as he died about two years after, and was buried in TaA'istock. Judge GlanviUe early in life had man-ied a lady whose name was Skirret ; he had by her three sons and four daughters. Of the former I shaU have more to say presently in my letter ; but I cannot conclude this brief notice of the Judge without giring his character in the Avords of Prince, Avho lived so much nearer his time than we do, and from all circurastances Avas so likely to be well acquainted vrith it. "He Avas," continues the venerable bio grapher, "not only skilled in the deep and more recondite points of the laAv, but he Avas also a great XXXI.] JUDGE GL.INVILLE. 313 lover of justice and integrity, being careful in his place to hold the balances intrusted to him, as be came him, with an even and steady hand; not inclining to either side, out of awe or dread, out of favour or affection : he Avould not oppress the sraall to please the great, but administer justice, accord ing to his oath, indifferently to all, with that up rightness and honesty as one conscious to himself he must one day come to judgment, and have all his judgments judged over again. This learned person, dying at Tavistock July 27th, 1600, was interred in the parish church thereunto belonging, Avhere is erected to his memory a very fair monu ment, so lively representing his person in his scarlet robes, that some at their first entrance into one of the doors there, against Avhich it stands, have been surprised at the sight, supposing it had been liring." The effigy of Judge GlanviUe, thus lauded by Prince, is certainly a very superior work of art. There is so much character about the face and head, that I have no doubt it was an exceUent Ukeness. Mr. Bray tells me it so exactly corresponds Arith an old picture, on panel, representing the judge in his black cap and scarlet robes, that was for years in the possession of his late father, that it confirms the circumstance. The effigy is that of a corpulent man lying at full length on his side ; the upper part of the body being raised, and the left arm resting on a cushion. The countenance and brows in par ticular exhibit those strong marks of intellectual superiority which ever distinguish a man of talent. As a Avhole his head is striking and impressive, notwithstanding the injury it has sustained by a loss of a part of the nose ; the hands have likewise been VOL. II. p 314 DAME GLANVILLE. [lET. mutilated, as Avell as many parts of the tomb. I have no doubt these injuries had their origin in the civil Avars when Tavistock Avas, at one period, in a very disturbed state. In front of the Judge, but beneath the figure, kneels, in a praying attitude, the effigy of Dame GlanviUe. This, too, is so cha racteristic, that it must have been an exceUent like ness. She is also noseless; but truly estimating her by Avhat remains of her face, one would be led to fancy her husband had raade, as raany other wise men have done, rather an unfortunate choice in his partner for life. The forehead is Ioav and mean; and the Avliole expression of the countenance con veys a strong idea of a proud, cross, disagreeable woman. And if the dress is correct, and there can be no doubt it is so, she must have been as fond of finery as good Queen Bess herself was known to be ; and as proud of it as a peacock of his magnificent tail. Seneca described woman as "an animal fond of dress." This is rather severe upon the ladies, and ought to be confined to those of Dame Glan- Aille's order ; nor ought we to feel very well pleased Avith the old Roman, nor with any other philosopher, for indulging a querulous mood against us. Vir tuous and feeling raen honour Avomen : licentious and proud men abuse them ; and, lowering them in the scale of intelUgent beings, prepare the way to degrade them in their moral and reUgious character. No truly honest man ever yet held woraen in con terapt ; and those who have entertained the society of such only as are vain, frivolous, or worse, are not judges of the worth and the blessing of a truly good Avoman. This, hoAvever, is rather an odd digression in the midst of describing Judge GlanriUe's monu- XXXI.] DAME GLANVILLE. 315 ment, and the figure of his lady. Her di-ess, then, is the raost extravagant representation of the most formidable array of the days of Elizabeth. Her buckram Avaist, like armour, padded sleeves, ruff and farthingale, are all monstrous ; and her double- linked gold chains are grand enough for the lord mayor. On the whole she looks so very formidable, that thus seen stationed before the Judge, she might be considered as representing Justice herself, but it Avould be in her severest mood. In front of the base of the tomb are seen several sraall figures about a foot high ; these are the miniature effigies of the great man's children. Having now told you all that is knoAvn of the real history of Judge Glan viUe, I~ shall proceed to mention a story tradition has connected with him, in which he is indeed made to bear a prorainent and most painful part. Before mentioning this, I deem it right to revert to the use I made of the story in a tale you have honoured me Avith reading, 'Fitz of Fitz-ford,' a le gend of Devon. I am more particularly induced to mention it here, because, since that tale appeared, many things in it, purely fictions of my own, are now told as traditions of Tavistock ! And such have, in more than one instance, been noticed in certain periodicals. I do not Avish to mislead, or to give rise to any falsehoods respecting our legends. Once then and for ever, to set the question at rest, I shall here state the real traditions of this neighbourhood on Avhich I grounded my roraance, and shall also give thera in the very words in which I found them. No false stories can then hereafter arise. It Avas in the beginning of the year 1827 that I chanced to find, amongst some papers relating to p2 ,316 THE GLANVILLES. [lET. Taristock, the copy of a letter addressed by Mr. Bray to the late Mr. Daniel Lysons, the author of the ' Magna Britannia,' of which the ' Devonshire' forms a part. Mr. Lysons had written to Mr. Bray to ask him certain questions, in addition to infor mation before conveyed, respecting this place. The answer, of which I found a copy in my husband's own hand, is dated the 16th of January, 1819. Amongst other matters of minor import, it contains the fol lowing story, with a few preA'ious remarks. Here it is. "From information Avhich I have just obtained fi-om an elderly lady (Miss Adams *), it shoul." seem that the GlanvUles formerly resided at Hol- well, in the parish of Whitchurch adjoining ; and that the Judge removed thence to a house in Tavistock (Carter's), which, she says, was part of the original palace of Ordulph (extending to Mrs. Rundle's). Certainly an arched gateway is near part of it, much in the style of those belonging to the Abbey ; and in another part a handsome wainscoted chamber, which she tells me was called King Edgar's chamber ; as also a tower apartment. The Judge afterwards built Kilworthy f , abput a mile and a half from Tavistock, and occasionally resided in each. " The Judge's daughter was attached to George StauAvich, a young man of Tavistock, lieutenant of a man of war, whose letters (the father disapproAing of the attachment) were intercepted. An old miser "¦ Miss Adaras died about nine years ago, at a very great age. She was a woman possessed of a strong mind, and the living record of ¦whatever of history or tradition raight be in any way connected with Tavistock. f Prince, however, thinks Kilworthy was built by Sir Johu Glan rille, son of the Judge. XXXI.] PAGE THE MISER, 317 of Plymouth, of the narae of Page, wishing to have an heir to disappoint his relations, Avho, perhaps, Avere too confident in calculating upon sharing his Avealth, availed himself of this apparent neglect of the young sailor, and settling on her a good jointure, obtained her hand. She took with her a maid servant from TaAistock, but her husband was so penurious, that he dismissed all the other servants, and caused his wife and her maid to do all the work themselves. On an interview subsequently taking place between her and Stanwich, she accused hira of neglecting to Avrite to her; and then discovered that his letters had been intercepted. The maid advised thera to get rid of the old gentleraan, and Stanwich at length, Arith great reluctance, consented to their putting an end to him. Page lived in what is now the mayor alty house (at Plymouth), and a Avoman who Uved opposite hearing at night some sand thrown against a Avindow, thinldng it Avas her own, arose, and looking out, saw a young gentleman near Page's window, and heard him say, " For God's sake stay your hand !" A female replied, " 'Tis too late, the deed is done." On the foUoAving morning it Avas given out that Page had died suddenly in the night, and as soon as possible he Avas buried. On the testi mony, however, of his neighbour, the body Avas taken up again, and it appearing that he had been strangled, his wife, Stanwich, and the maid, Avere tried and executed. It is current among the comraon people here, that Judge Glanviile, her own father^ pronounced her sentence *." -? In the 92nd No. of the Quarterly Review, January, 1832, in the reviewal of Collier's ' History of the EngUsh Drama,' I saw it stated, that, before Shakspeare wrote his plays, it was the custom of 318 STORY OF PAGE. [leT. On reading this dismal story in Mr. Bray's letter, it instantly struck me that Avith some alterations, additions, &c., it might be made a ground-work for the plot of a romance that, would admit descriptive scenes, &c. of this town and neighbourhood. And the more I thought of it, the more I felt desirous to execute the plan I had formed. At the same time it struck me that ii' I could unite vrith it a second plot, founded on the true story of Sir John Fitz (recorded by Prince), it Avould heighten the interest, and increase the opportunities that would occur for scenes of a dramatic character. I next turned to (Avhat I shall soon give) the story of Sir Joim Fitz, and saw it Avotdd do. That of Page required, I thought, considerable alteration. It Avould make the tale too horrible, too much of the raw-head and bloody-bones order to have the vrife kill her husband in the progress of the piece. I determined, therefore, that the deed should have been done years before the opening of the narrative ; that tAvo of the parties concerned should have escaped immediate justice (StauArich and the maid), and that the miserable consequences of their crimes, both to themselves and others, should form the groundwork of my story, as those consequences might arise in the course of the Avork. I had some doubt as to the Avay in which I should draAV the character of the maid who had urged the wife of Page to commit the murder. That she must be very Aricked Avas a thing of course ; but a common serving damsel Avould hardly siut Arith dramatic the time to dramatise any remarkable incident which occurred in the country. Mr. CoUier mentions one of these incidental dramas to have heen "The lamentable Tragedy of Page of Plymouth." XXXI.] EETSY GRlMBAL. 319 effect in the particular kind of scenes I Avished to represent. She ought to be raised something above the comraon order, so that it Avould not be incon gruous to raake her speak EngUsh instead of Devon shire, She ought, I fancied, to have a genius for wickedness ; and to carry about her something to excite terror as Avell as abhorrence. Wliat name to call her Avas also another point. " Call her,'' said Mr. Bray, " Betsy Grimbal : that name is formidable enough for any such character as you Avish to draAV ; and, raoreover, Betsy Grimbal is not unknown to tradition; though all that is told of her is, that she, instead of committing a murder, Avas herself murdered. She is said to have been killed by a soldier in the spfr-al stairs of the toAver flanking the old archway in our garden. Hence that tower bears her name. The stains on the waU, called her blood used sadly to frighten me when I was a child." It was agreed that Betsy Grimbal Avas, therefore, to become the guUty associate and attendant of Page's wife, and to play a busy and prominent part in the story. And as I wished as much as possible to combine every fragment of tradition, or to derive some hint from it, thatAvould suggest incident and character, even the slightest legend of old times was not to be neglected. It struck me that I could make Lady Howard into a character. All I knew of her then was, that she bore the reputation of having been hard-hearted in her lifetime. That for some crime she had committed (nobody knew Avhat) she was said to be doomed to run in the shape of a hound fi-om the gateway of Fitz-ford to Oak hampton park, between the hours of midnight and cock-crowing, and to return Avith a single blade of 320 LADY HOWARD. [LET. grass in her mouth Avhence she started ; and this she Avas to do tiU every blade Avas picked, Avhen the Avorld would be at an end. Dr. Jago, the clergyman of Milton Abbot, how ever, told me that occasionally she Avas said to ride in a coach of bones up the West-street towards the Moor ; and an old man of this place told a friend of mine the sarae story, only adding that " he had seen her in it scores of times .'" A lady also Avho was once a resident here, and whom I met in com pany, assured me that, happening many years before to pass the old gateway at Fitz-ford, as the church clock struck twelve, in returning frora a party, she had herself seen the hound start ! Now I verily believe the lady told truth ; for my husband's father, many years ago, rented Fitz-ford ; it was the resi dence of his hind or bailiff, and there the late Mr. Bray used to keep a pack of hounds : it is, therefore, nothing improbable that one of them might have slipped the kennel, and ran out as the church clock struck twelve, and so personated, in the eyes of imagination, the terrific spectre of the old tale. My husband can remember that Avhen a boy it was a common saying with the gentry at a party — " Come, it is groAving late, let us begone, or Ave shall meet Lady Howard as she starts fi-om Fitz-ford." The above anecdotes Avere all 1 knoAv about her, Avhen I determined to make her take a part in my story ; but the hound, the gateway, and fhe coach of bones, were all fine hints for imagination to work upon. I Avalked doAvn to Fitz-ford with Mr. Bray and reconnoitred the spot, and there, such is thebe- Avitching power of locality, all seemed to rush at once into my mind. The plot Avas formed with ease, and XXXI.] LADY HOWARD. 321 I Avent horae determined to connect the adventure of Fitz and Slanning, under the gateway, with Lady Howard; to give her a real hound, a blood hound, instead of turning her into one ; and then the coach of bones and her riding in it after death, might be made a legend, in consequence of a great crime which, by an eril passion, she had been led to deter mine on coraraitting whUst riding in her OAvn coach, in all her pride, to the house of the person she had it in vicAv to betray to ruin here on earth. This rude sketch of a plot was soon Avorked into shape and committed to paper. Mr. Bray named the hound Redfang, as a significant appellative for a dog Avhose instinct Avas to become the agency in assisting to bring about the catastrophe. I had never seen a bloodhound, and I Arished to be correct in describing one. Here fortune favoured me again; for the younger Lewis, the animal painter, in a few days arrived at our house. I ventured to tell him my Avishes, and he vei-y good-naturedly made me a most spirited sketch of a blood-hound ; for he had painted one from Ufe, I think he said, in Scotland. From that drawing I described Redfang, and Mr. Lewis's account of the habits and instinct of the animal Avas of great serrice. The character of the Jew Avas suggested by our acquaintance Avith a most honest Israelite, a German, Mr. Rosenthal, who used to come to the ricarage to teach Mr. Bray Hebrew. The terms of instruc tion he left to him ; and when the time came for payraent, he actually wanted to return Mr. Bray some part of the money, insisting that he ought not to be paid so much for his lessons. There was so much mildness, feeling, and gratitude about poor p3 322 FITZ OF FITZ-FORD. [LET. Rosenthal, that I endeavoured minutely to observe him, and to sketch him in Levi, as a A'ery different sort of character to what Ave generally expect to find in a Jew. I beUeve I have here stated every fragment of tradition that suggested to me any name, character, or incident in the tale, excepting the real story of Fitz ; Avhich, as it is the principal, and the one after which I called the work, I here conclude with giring exactly as I found it in Prince's ' Worthies of Devon.' "John Fitz, of Fitz-ford, Esquire, was in his time a A'ery erainent counsellor at laAV ; in demonstra tion thereof (continues this biographer, after giAing the list of his generations) is a large volume he is said to have left behind him in manuscript, called ' Fitz his Reports.' I think it was never printed ; and Avhether yet in being I know not. He was also preferred, in his time, to the honour and trust of being high sheriff of the county of Devon, an. 23d, some say an. 25th, of Queen Elizabeth's reign. He married Mary, daughter of Sir John Sydenham, of Brimton, in Somersetshire ; but was very unfortunate in his issue, of which there is this remarkable story. Mr. Fitz being a curious as well as a learned person, had been prying into the secrets of astrology ; his lady being with child, he would needs be inqufring into the fortune of her burthen before she was de livered ; Avho, being just ready to fall into travaU, he erected a scheme to calculate the matter ; and as it often falls out in such unjustifiable curiosities, finding at that time a very unlucky position of the heavens, he desired the midwife, if possible, to hinder the birth but for one hour, which not being to be done, he declared that the child would come to XXXI.] SIR J. FITZ AND SLANNING. 323 an unhappy end, and undo his family. And it feU out accordingly, for that birth proving a son, though afterAvards knighted by the name of Sir John Fitz of Fitz-ford, yet having first slain Sir Nicholas Slan ning of this county, Kt., and after that one or two raore, he fell upon his oavu sword, and destroyed hiraself" In a notice respecting the family of Slanning, Prince thus states the circumstance more at large. " This gentleraan came to an untimely end, being slain in a quarrel that happened between him and Sir John Fitz, near Tavistock, in this county. The matter, it seems, was likely to have been composed, but the villain, Fitz's man, tAvitting his master with a ' What, play chUd's play I Come to fight, and now put up your sword ! ' made him draw again, and Slanning's foot in stepping back (having his spurs on) hitching in the ground, was there, unfortunately and foully, killed : whereupon Sir John Fitz, by the interest of his ftiends, sued out his pardon soon after this happened, which Avas in 1599. But al though Queen Elizabeth was pleased to forgive lum, Slanning's AvidoAv would not; but brought her appeal, and obtained a verdict against Sir John for damages, Avho thereupon was forced to comply vrith her, by granting some part of his estate to her and her family, who are still in possession of it." "After this," continues Prince, "as one sin be came (as oftentimes it doth) the punishraent of another. Sir John was so unhappy to be guilty of a second murder; and thereupon flying from his county (though not from his own guilty conscience) so far as Salisbury, or thereabouts, in his way to London, to sue out a second pardon, hearing some- 324 SIR J. FITZ AND SLANNING. [lET. body about his chamber-door early in the morning, and fearing it had been officers corae to apprehend him, by raistake in the dark he slew one of the house come to wake him, as he desiredf in order to his journey. When the lights carae that raade him sensible of the horrid and atrocious fact which he had afresh committed, overwhelmed Arith sorroAV and despair, he fell upon his oavu sword and slew him self. Unto Avhich passage that tetrastich formerly found upon this raonuraent, now nearly expunged by the finger of tirae, doth plainly relate, Avhere Sir Nicholas Slanning, by an apostrophe, speaketh thus of Fitz:"— Idem ceedis erat nostrae, simul author et ullor ; Trux horaicida mei, mox homicida sui. Queraque in me primum, mox in se condidit ensem : O ! nostrum sumrai Judicis arbitriura. Prince has thus closely rendered it in English : — " He author of ray murder was, and the revenger too : A bloody murderer of me, and then himself he slew. The very sword which in mine first, he bathed his own blood. O ! of the highest Judge 'twixt us, the arbitration good !" Mr. Bray has rendered it thus : — " I in my murderer my avenger found. Who dealt to both the homicidal wound: For, of just heaven the retribution due, Me, and himself, hy the same sword he slew.'' The first part of the above melancholy tale I fol lowed closely in my novel, and represented the old laAvyer engaged in his astrological pursuits, and alarmed for the fate he had so darkly predicted respecting his only son. The latter part Avas too fuU of horrors ; and therefore, blending fiction Avith truth, I ventured to create a cause for the quarrel XXXI.] MRS. bray's novel. 325 between Slanning and Sir John Fitz, that should be connected Avith the leading incidents of the story even from its opening; and instead of John Fitz kilUng three persons, I thought one would be quite enough, and so concluded much according to the real narrative. Tradition marks the old gatcAvay of Fitz-ford, still in existence, as the scene of the fatal duel and the spot Avhere Slanning fell. WliUst 'Fitz of Fitz-ford' was going through the press, my brother was collecting his materials for some account of TaAistock and its Abbey, for the pages of the Gentleman's Magazine, from Avhich I have occasionaUy made extracts, as men tioned in these letters. During various researches, he examined more carefuUy than I had done (for my attention had been confined to the story of the astrologer) Prince's account of the genealogy of the family of Fitz, their marriages, births, &c. Judge, therefore, how much I Avas surprised at my OAvn carelessness, Avhen ray brother wrote me word that I had made a great oversight about Lady Howard ; for in tracing the alliances of this wife oi four hus bands, he had found she Avas the sole child and heiress of Sir John Fitz, who killed Slanning, and afterwards fell on his own sword. Had Lady HoAvard been an historical character, this Avould have been a grievous mistake on my part, for I consider a no- A'elist not justified in misleading in any important points connected Avith history; but as she was a private indiridual, conspicuous only for her for tune and her bad name, the error appeared to me of no consequence; and I might hope to be excused also on the ground of that license which is extended to novelists as well as poets, in cases of a similar 326 WEALTHY PAGE. [lET. nature. At all events I made the blunder, and am therefore bound to acknowledge rather than excuse it, by at once declaring that Lady Howard, as far as her birth and her share in the action of my story goes, is quite as fictitious as the other characters which are wholly so. Respecting Su- John, or " Old Page," I am in formed by Mr. Hughes (who is well acquainted with many local interesting stories and traditions), that he was an eminent merchant in his day, com monly called "wealthy Page." He lived in Wool- ster Street, Plymouth, in the house since knoAvn by the narae of the Mayoralty. It stood untouched tUl the rebuUding of the Guildhall, when it was taken doAvn. The old house Avas long an object of curiosity on account of the atrocious murder there committed. Mr. Hughes likevrise tells me that some years ago, prerious to the repairs of St. Andrew's church, Plymouth, Page's coffin was discovered, on breaking the ground near the communion table for the interment of a lady named Lovell. The in scription on the coffin proved it to contain the body ofthe "AA'ealthy Page." It was opened; the re mains Avere found in a reraarkably perfect state, but crumbled to dust on being exposed to the air. So great was the curiosity of the populace, that during several days hundreds pressed in to gratify it, and every relic that could be stolen, if but a nail from the coffin, Avas carried off. There is no authority but that of tradition in support of the assertion that the Arife of Page was one of the daughters of Judge Glanrille, and re ceived sentence of death from the lips of her own father. Supposing the story to be true. Prince has XXXI.] JUDGE HODY. 327 cai-efully suppressed it. I ara, however, disposed to think it is not true; as my venerable friend, the Rev. Richard Polwhele, of Polwhele, Cornwall, (de scended fi-om the judge by the marriage of his daughter Dionysia with a' Pohvhele) Avrites me word — " That though he had heard his grand mother tell the story of GlanviUe passing the sen tence on his own chUd, it Avas not, even in her time, considered true.' It strikes me, after a careful examination of Avhatever circumstance could throw Ught on the subject, that some confusion, some mistake has arisen, in consequence of another De vonshire judge having really been placed in so trying and painful a situation as that of sitting on the bench and passing sentence on his OAvn son. I here give the circumstance from Prince. " So great a lover of justice was Judge Hody, that according to his oath, and the obligation of his honour, he most exactly administered it to all with out favour or affection. A traditionary confirmation whereof in the family I crave leave here to relate, not as redounding to the disparagement of that, but the high honour of this grand justiciary. 'Tis said when his son Thomas was tried before hira at the public assizes, and found guUty by his country of a capital crime, he with his own mouth pronounced sentence of death upon him. For which reason, 'tis observed, there hath not ever since been any of the name Thomas in tlus family. And when the unfortunate son, overAvhelmed Arith sorrow and me lancholy, killed himself the next night after, the father, esteeming him degenerate, would not so much as honour his funeral with his presence." 328 TRADITION OF GLANVILLE. [lET. This Judge Hody lived in the reigns of Henry VII. and VIIL, and I cannot help thinking that the above story about his son has given rise to a similar tradition about Glanrille and his daughter. For though Prince says in another part of his curi ous and ingenious work, that he " liketh not to teU old tales that are disreputable to honourable fami lies, and therefore leaveth them unnoticed whenever he can do so" — yet Ave see he does tell the tale about Judge Hody's son ; wh}', therefore, suppress that of Glanrille's eldest or youngest daughter, had it been true ? If true or false, so striking a tradition Avas quite sufficient authority for a Avriter of roraance; and as it afi'orded a good subject for imagination to work upon, both in character and incident, I felt fiilly justified in making Glanviile a judge who had passed sentence on his own daughter in my story. I should much like to see the old play (mentioned by Collier in his 'History of the Drama') called the ' Lamentable Tragedy of Page of Plymouth,' as that would most likely settle the question ; for it cannot be supposed that a circumstance of so impressive a nature, and known to all the kingdom, would have been passed unnoticed by the dramatist, whoever he might have been ; and as it was the fashion of the time to dramatise any remarkable incidents that occurred in real life, a feeling of deUcacy Avould not have been dreamt of to prevent it, though Judge GlanvUle was then alive, since it could be no more shocking to his feelings to represent the act in Avhich he perforraed a painful duty, than to bring forward that in which his daughter was seen acting the crime of murder in its most atrocious form. XXJil.] SIR J. GLANVILLE. 329 There is another and a very interesting tale re specting a son of Judge GlanviUe : this is recorded by Prince ; and I once entertained the idea of found ing on it a story, as one of a series of tales that should attempt to bring into play all the most in teresting legends of this part of England, as I think many of thera are not less worthy notice than the legends of Scotland and Wales. The striking circurastances to Avhich I now allude are connected vrith Kilworthy ; but before I relate thera, I must commence, in regular order, a sketch of the life of Sir John Glanrille, of Avhich they forra a part. 'tSir John GlanviUe, Serjeant at Law, was born," says Prince, " at Tavistock, that fruitful seed-plot of eminent and learned men in this county. He was the second son of Judge GlanviUe, aforemen tioned, an honourable and worthy person." This gentleman, like his father, had not the ad vantage of receiving his education at either of the uniA'er sities. He Avas bred an attorney, but after wards removing to Lincoln's Inn, with the help of his father's notes, he became skilled in his pro fession. For sorae time he practised as a coun sellor, and his reputation increasing with his years, he Avas at length elected recorder of Plymouth, and served as burgess for that town in several parlia ments. In the fifth of King Charles I. he Avas chosen Lent reader of his house, and in 1637 ad vanced to the rank of Seijeant at Law. About this time he had the honour of becoming Speaker to the House of Commons. Clarendon, who mentions the circumstance, says he Avas — " a man very equal to the AVork, very well acquainted with the proceed ings in parliaments, of a quick conception, and of a 330 SIR J. GLANVILLE. L'"'^'^- ready, voluble expression, dexterous in disposing the house, and very acceptable to them." Glanviile, who more than once, in his character of burgess for Plyraouth, had been little fi-iendly to the preroga tive of the crown, nevertheless, on seeing to Avhat extremities the factious and discontented were dis posed to carry aU things in their efforts to subvert the church, the monarchy, and the laws, proved himself active in thefr defence ; and so worthily did he conduct the affairs of the house in its first meet ing, 1640, Avhen, after a long interval, the king had again summoned a parliament, that in the foUoAring year he received the honour of knighthood fromJ;he hand of that beloA'ed raaster. It is not a little remarkable that, though he filled the office of Speaker at a time Avhen the most stormy debates were carried on, and often interposed his authority to maintain the rules and order of pro ceeding, which so many were disposed to subvert, his popiUarity remained unshaken, and he was held in universal respect, though knoAvn to have the king's interest at heart, and to be devoted to his service. Such, is the respect Avhich a man who acts conscientiously, and serves the cause of loyalty from a sense of its justice, vrill generaUy command, even from his enemies. GlanvUle lost no whit of that paid to him, tUl the factious became openly the re- beUious, and Avar Avas proclaimed on either side. It was then that his enemies, who Avere the King's also, haring him entfrely Avithin their own power, and finding he was not to be shaken, conferred on him the highest honour he had yet attained — that of being made a sufferer in a just and righteous cause. Before matters, howeA'er, had arrived to an open XJvvtJ sill J. GLANVILLE. 331 rupture between the King and the Coraraons, Glan rille particularly distinguished himself in the com mittee respecting subsidies, which, by a message through Sir Harry Vane, the unfortunate Charles had requested might be granted him in lieu of ship- money, adjudged to be his right, but Avhieh he would not insist upon, out of affection to his people, since they were unvriUing to pay it. Deprived of these means, by his own forbearance, he prayed the Parlia ment to grant the supplies that he found so absolutely necessary at such a crisis. This allusion to " right' and " ship-money" was exceedingly offensive to some of the more riolent members ; and, after a sharp de bate, it was resolved to go again into committee of the whole house, and all present seemed to wish " that whatsoever," says Clarendon, " they should give the kmg should be a free testimony of their affection and duty, vrithout any release of ship-money, which deserved no consideration, but in a short time would appear niUl and void." Hampden, the most popular and most Arily man araong them, and who had so lately defended the ship-money suit against the crown, did not lose such a moment as this ; and judging the subject ripe for the question, desired it might be put — " Whether the House would consent to the propo sition made by the king, as it was contained in the message of Sir Harry Vane ? " This the arch-rebel well knew would be sure to meet vrith a negative from all who thought the sum too great, and were not pleased that it should be given in lieu of ship-money, though the king had said nothing more than the whole house knew to be truth — namely, that it had been adjudged his right ; and 332 SIR J. GLANVILLE. [lKT. his offer to Avaive this right, from love to his people, Avould have been hailed as a proof of his desire to render thera happy, and to conciliate them, by any other than raen who had deterrained the poor king never should be right, tUl Avi-ong had hurled him frora the throne. At this call of " Question," Serjeant GlanvUle as one of the members only in committee) arose; and though he seldom spoke on such occasions, yet noAv, in Avhat Clarendon calls " a most pa- thetical speech," in which he excelled, he endea voured to prevail with the house to entertain fi-eely and grant the king's desire, as an act that Avould prove of great benefit to the nation at large, inas much as it could not fail to reconcile his majesty to parliaments for CA'cr, by a ready testimony of their affection. After haring endeaA'oured to raise in his hearers a kind and dutiful feeling towards the king, he next showed thera, in the clearest raanner, how A'ery inconsiderable Avould be the subsidy to those, taken individually, by Avhose contributions it must be raised. The Serjeant had computed his oaati assessment : he named the sum to Avhich it Avould amount ; and all present knowing hoAV large Avas his estate, and therefore that most men Avould have far less to pay, the matter appeared too insignificant to be Avorthy any more debating. GlanvUle saw the poAverful impression he had made by his eloquent appeal : he had stirred up some feeling of generosity towards the king ; and had shown, by the simplest and raost certain test — that of an arithmetical calculation — hoAV little such generosity Avould really cost themselves. Willing, therefore, stUl further to conciliate them (and in XXXI.] SIR J. GLANVILLE. 333 this we sec something of the lawyer as Avell as of the orator), he let the house knoAv that, in matters of law affecting right, he was as jealous as them selves ; and he let fall, in his zeal, some severe ex pressions against the impost of ship-money, and against the judgment lately given in its favour. " This," says Clarendon, " from one known to be very learned, hoAV necessary and artificial soever to reconcUe the affections of the house to the matter in question, very much irreconciled him at court, and to those upon whom he had the greatest de pendence, though there Avas scarce ever a speech that more gathered up and united the inclinations of a popular council to the speaker ; and if the ques tion had been presently put, it Avas beUeved the number of the dissenters would not have appeared great." The failure of this afi'air of the subsidies, princi paUy by the mismanagement and misrepresentation of Sir Han-y Vane, who so often betrayed the un happy king, AvhUst pretending to serve him, caused the speedy dissolution of that parliament, which Charles too soon had bitter cause to lament. Some factious spirits — Hampden, St. John, and cunning Pym at their head — rejoiced at it; but all Avho wished well to the king and to the country saw that, taken in the aggregate, such a number of dispassionate and Avell-intentioned men Avould not be returned again ; and that, in another house, Avhich Charles would too soon be obliged to call, the factious would return no representatives but such as were willing to go all lengths with the evil spirits of the times. Dissolving a parliament such as this, at a crisis 334 SIR J. GLANVILLE. [lET. when the elements of rebeUion Avere gathering strength, and combining their several powers before the bursting of the storm, was, on the part of the king, as great an act of temerity as it Avould have been for the captain of a vessel to cut away his cables, and send the ship out of port to buffet before the tempest, amidst rocks and shoals, when; by keeping in harbour, though the gale might sing in the shrouds, and beat upon her, it could not have force sufficient to drive her from her moorings, or to make her the wi-eck of its unmitigable fury. Charles never recovered that false step of ill-adrised policy ; and Avhen he Avas forced to leave the treasonable parliaraent which he afterwards called, and but too soon hastened his ruin, his faithful Speaker, Glan rille, followed him to Oxford, Avhere he devoted all the energies of a mind naturally energetic to the service of his prince. At Oxford, with some other loyalists of great merit, in a public Convocation, he was created Doctor of Ciril Law, in 164.3. And being noAV considered by the rebels " a desperate malignant," in the year 1645 they disabled hira from sitting as a meniiber at Westminster. Shortly after returning to his OAvn home in Devon, the king's cause no sooner declined in the west than he was seized and comraitted to prison (probably at Exeter), and there remained a long while in captivity — an honourable example of hoAV patiently and how cheerfully a good cause can enable a man to suffer the greatest injuries. He was not released tiU the year 1648, Avhen he bought his liberty, by a heavy fine being laid on his estates. Loyd, in his " Loyal Sufferers," gives the highest XXXI.J SIR J. GLANVILLE. 335 character of GlanviUe ; and fi-om him we learn that this imprisonment Avas not the first to which the worthy Serjeant had been exposed. He states that GlanviUe's first durance was on shipboard, in 1626, for haring spoken his mind too fi-eely on some points respecting the prerogative; that afterAvards he suffered six several hard impri sonraent^ (one of which Avas two years in the Tower of London) for declaring himself " as honestly in some law points against a treasonable popularity;" and so high did his character stand in the estimation of all men, that, notArithstanding his so recent cap tivity, the UniA'ersity of Oxford, ever honourable and consistent, even under the raost dangerous cir cumstances and times, was bold enough to return Sir John Glanviile as her burgess in one of the par liaments held in the days of the usurper. But Glan rille's attachment to the exiled family of the mur dered king was knoAvn to be unshaken ; he Avas not, therefore, suffered to take his seat. His spirit undaunted by those Avho in this arbitrary raanner had opposed his just election, and deterrained, if it could not aid hira in asserting the rights of the injured in the general asserably of his countrymen, that he would defend them as long as one law re mained unsubverted to bear him out, he now pleaded openly, as a laAvyer, the causes of many a banished royaUst ; amongst others, those of Lord Craven and Sir John Stawel : the latter being a prisoner, and particularly obnoxious to many Avho then held the reins of government in their oavu hands. To the honour of this truly great man, be it also spoken, that he possessed that most certain mark of 336 SIR J. GLANVILLE. [lET. superior merit, both of head and heart — the power to distinguish it in others, and the will to bring it forward with honour and success. It was Serjeant Glanviile Avho first appreciated the then obscure talents of Sir Matthew Hale, — obscure by fortune, by the want of opportunity, and doubly so by an idle course of life. This fault he represented to Hale in strong terms, roused his energies, encou raged his perseverance, and opened to him that path by Avhich he afterwards arose to so much dig nity and repute. The story I am noAv about to relate (the truth of which there is no cause to doubt) opens to us the character of Glanviile in its most amiable light. In reflecting on it Ave feel that gloAv of pleasure Avhich both young and old experience Avhilst they listen to a deed of heroic generosity in the days of chivalry, when raen were heroes because they Avere Christians, and thought no action could be worthy the honour of a knight that Avas not founded on the high prin ciples and true glory emanating from their obe dience to God, to his Church here on earth, and to their anointed King. Judge Glanrille, the possessor of that fair estate of Kibvorthy, so often spoken of in this letter, in tended to settle it on his son Francis, as the elder born, who was to bear the honours of his house, and to convey them unsullied to his posterity ; but Francis disappointed his hopes. He proved idle and ricious ; and, Uke the prodigal in the Gospel, would leave his father's house to herd among swine, for such are the low and the Avicked. Seeing there was no prospect of his amendment, the Judge gave xxxi.] FRANK GLANVILLE. 337 the inheritance of the elder to the younger born, and settled his estate on John, afterwards Serjeant, GlanviUe. Francis, on his father's death, finding those threats which had been occasionally held out to induce hira to reform his wild career were fully executed (for he had never really believed thera to be other than threats), was overcome with grief and dismay. He was the elder born — ¦*ihe natural heritor of the estate ; and he, like Esau, had sold his birthright for dishonour. This reflection, and the thought that his father had died in too just anger towards him, so Avrought on a mind in which there lay hid strong, though hitherto perverted, feelings, that he became melancholy. Riot could no longer soothe the pangs of conscience ; and when, like the prodigal, all was gone, instead of giving himself up to utter despair, he wisely returned to God, as to an offended and only Father, his earthly parent being alike removed either from his sorrows or his repentance. Good resolutions are the guides to virtue, but prac tice is the path ; and that must be followed Avith an uuAvearied step. Frank Glanviile, having once set his foot in the Avay, did not turn back; and so stea dily did he advance in his progress on the right road, that what his father could never do with him whilst he lived (and the spendthrift entertained the expectation of being his heir), he noAV did for him self, when he Avas little better than an outcast ftom his early home : his life became corapletely changed. Sir John GlanvUle, his younger brother, Avishing to prove him before he gave him better countenance, for some time left hira to himself, till he felt con- A'OL. II. Q 338 FRANK AND SIR J. GLAKVILLE. [lET. vinced his brother's penitence Avas as lasting as it Avas sincere : he then sent and invited him to be present at a feast that he purposed making for his friends in the halls of Kihvorthy. The most sump tuous preparations Avere made ; the banquet Avas s6t forth Avith all the liberal hospitality of the time ; the guests assembled Avere numerous and honourable ; and music sounded through the halls its varied and most enlivening notes. Sir .John GlanviUe took the repentant prodigal by the hand, seated him at the table, and, after many dishes had been served, ordered one that Avas coAcrcd to be set before his brother Francis ; and then, Avith a cheerful countenance, he bade him raise the cover. Francis did so. All present Avere surprised on seeing that the dish contained nothing but Avritten parch ments ; Avhereupon Sir John GlanviUe, Avishing all his friends to knoAv the respect in which he now held his repentant brother, and at the same tirae Avith that true generosity Avhich seeks to lighten the obligation it confers, by lessening its merit, told Francis, and those Avho were assembled, that Avhat he now did Avas only the sarae act that he felt assured would have been performed by his father, could he haAe lived to witness the happy change which they all knew had taken place in his eldest son : there fore, as in honour bound, he freely restored to him tlie whole estate. The scene that followed may be readily imagined ; the "lost that Avas found" feU on his brother's neck and wept aloud, and if there was one heart in that assembly more than aU the rest rejoicing in the general joy, it Avas the heart of the generous, the Q 2 xxxi. J FRANK AND SIR J, GLANVILLE. 339 noble, fhe just brother, who uoav most truly felt the force of these Avords of the Lord of life : " It is more blessed to give than to receive." It is honourable to both brothers that Francis proved deserving of being thus restored to his inhe ritance ; he lived to receive the distinction of knight hood from the hand of Charles II. Sir John Glan rille's generosity is a proof that the truly great in public duties are not less so in private ones ; indeed I should ever doubt that man's claim to patriotism and public rirtue, Avho could be unjust, arrogant, or arbitrary in the relations of domestic life. Sir Francis GlanviUe some years after married Elizabeth, the daughter of William Cryraes, Esq., of Devon, and left a son named Francis, who died vrithout issue : in consequence of which his estates came to his sister's only daughter (by her husband Mr, William Kelly), and she married Ambrose Manaton, Esq,, AA'hich caused the noble mansion of Balworthy to pass into that family *, Sfr John, or Seijeant GlanvUle, Avhom I consider not only one of the greatest men ever born in TaAis tock, but Avhose virtues render hira an honour to the kingdom at large, lived to see monarchy restored : he was favourably received, as he deserA'ed to be, by * The Manatons were very celebrated persons, of honourable repute, who for generations kept up the old style of hospitality and kindness to their friends and tenantry. An old house, with the crest of a unicorn rampant upon the ornameutal parts of the front, still points out their town residence in Tavistock, Their beautiful old-fashioned service of pewter plates, dishes, &e., was a few years since sold by auction. Mr, Bray's mother hought it, and we now every day dine off the grand Manaton service, decorated with arms and unicorn, at the Vicarage. Q 2 340 DEATH OF SIR J. GLANVILLE. [lET. Charles IL, on his accession to his father's throne, and was appointed King's Serjeant. In all proba bility he Avould have risen to yet higher honours had not God, Avho endowed him so largely on earth with his richest gift, a truly noble spirit, conferred upon it that iraraortality which raust have been its highest reward, in the year 1661. He Avas buried in the church of Broad Hinton, in Wilts; Avhere he re sided for some time before his death. His AvidoAV, Winifred, placed a monument over his grave, Avith an inscription, in which even raonuraental praise could scarcely equal his merit. Whilst employed in the agreeable task of penning this slight sketch of his Ufe, Mr. Charles Crapp, a respectable mercer of this town, had the kindness to send me a very curious raanuscript in his possession, Avhich he highly values, giving an account of the lands disposed for charitable purposes in the parish of Tavistock. In this raanuscript I find an entry, dated 29th March, 1649, stating that our good Serjeant did give in trust to certain gentlemen of this place, all named, the tenement called South Brent Tor, to the intent that the rent or profits of the said estate .shall be thus disposed of: — That "the feoffees, their heirs, assigns, and successors, or the most of them that wUl be present in the school-house on Friday in the Easter Aveek, betAveen the hours of ten and eleven, do elect a toAvardly youth, born of honest parents within the said borough, whose pa rents or friends are poor, and without deceit reputed to be unable to maintain such boy, and to dispose the profits for his maintenance at one ofthe universities ; and when all the feoffees (trustees) are dead, to eight XXXI.] SIR J. glanville's bequests. 341 survivors must renew the estate to others of Avhich the eight masters of the town and parish must be of them." The manuscript (which contains a long list of charitable donations) says — "N.B. These abstracts were taken out of the new feoff'ment deeds, dated 2lst August, 1738." To conclude, as Sir John Glanviile was a man of A'irtue and talents himself, so, as we have seen, Avas he the friend to both in others. His Avorks Avere principally of a political nature. Sorae of his par liamentary speeches raay be found in Rushworth's collection. The following lines arc the only frag raent of his poetry that I have ever had the good fortune to meet Avith. They are addressed to his accomplished fi-iend and brother townsman Browne, the author of ' Britannia's Pastorals.' Ingenious swaine ! that highly dost adorne Clear Tavy, on whose brinck we both were borne ! Just praise in me would ne'er be thought to move From thy sole worth, but from thy pariiall love : Avherefore I will not do thee so much wrong. As by such mixture to alloy thy song. But while kind strangers rightly praise each grace Of thy chaste muse, I (from the happy placj That brouglit thee forth, and thinks it not unfit To boast now that it erst bred such a wit) AVould only have it knowne I much rejoice To hear such matters sung by such a voice. John Gt.anvii.j.e. The sons of Serjeant GlanviUe Avere also dis tinguished for talent and Avorth. One of them, John, Avas a barrister at laAv, Avho rose to great emi nence in his profession : he married a daughter of Sir Edmund Fortescue of Fallopit, DeA'on; and at 342 SONS OF SIR J. GLANVILLE. [LET. length retired to Broad Hinton, where he died, and was buried near his father. Another son of the Serjeant Avas even yet more eminent, though his career Avas as brief as it Avas glorious. He Avas a youth of the greatest promise, and possessed talents Avhich, had he been longer spared, could not have failed to becorae alike ho nourable and useful to himself and to society. But bearing in his breast a high and martial spirit, he could not brook standing idly looking on Avhen the king Avas hard pressed by his enemies. He joined the royal cause, and in the rank of lieutenant-colonel maintained the town of BridgeAvater ftgainst the tre mendous assault that Avas made against it by the parliament forces In this action he showed Avon derful gallantry and courage ; and being resolute to keep the town till the last, ho, vrith several other gentleraen of like spirit, fell covered with wounds and honour in the twenty-eighth year of his age, on the fatal 20th of July, 1645. Thus perished Fran cis Glanviile the younger. Where he was buried is not certainly known ; but most likely the body was removed frora Bridgewater, as the royalists gene rally begged their dead might be restored when thej' were persons of eminence. Some years after, a monument Avas erected to his memory in the church of Broad Hinton. Joseph GlanviUe, chaplain in ordinary to Charles II. , and author of the famous book on Witches,' Avas born at Plymouth ; and I only sUghtly raention hira here, because he Avas a branch from the ancient Kibvorthy stock of GlanviUe. Not being of our parish, it is not my place to write his life; yet I cannot forbear mentioning that, in addition to many XXXI.] SONS OF SIR J. GL.\NV1LLE. 343 other works, he left a posthumous volume of sermons that are of the highest merit, and breathe the lofty spirit of those glorious old divines which render the reign of Charles II. as remarkable for the learning, the piety, the genius, a-^.d the exemplary conduct of the clerg-y, as it was depraved and infamous in that of the morals of the king and of the court. These sermons have becorae very scarce ; Mr. Bray is so fortunate as to possess a copy of them. Their charac teristic is energy ; the atithority of the Church is maintained with a dig'nity that becomes the subject, and the boldest arguments (though they must have been little pleasing to many hearers of his day) are brought forward and enforced Avith the most power ful eloquence of feeling- and of truth. It is melancholy to relate — such are the changes of time and fortune — that the last descendant of the elder branch of the illustrious family of GlanviUe died a very fcAV years ago in the poor-house at Bradstone in this neighbourhood. He Avas a hunts man, and known by the narae of Jack GlanviUe. From all I can learn about him, he appears to have been an original character ; possessed of a good deal of sense, and sorae humour ; and valued himself on his blood, of Avhich he considered there was none nobler in the Avhole county of Devon. When I heard of the obscure state in which he Avas brought up and died, I could not help thinking Avhat a fit object he Avould have been, in early life, to have profited by the charitable bequest of his good and great ancestor, the Serjeant — and a university edu cation might have rescued the last of the Une from debasement and poverty, and have once more re stored it to an honourable place in the famiUes of 3-14 LAST OF THE GLANA'ILLES. [l-ET. Devon. But he is dead and gone, the elder Une extinct ; and it is but one more example that there is no permanence in the families of the great, but that found in the merit and virtues of the individuals that compose them. Tavistock also gave birth to the celebrated Sir John Maynard, Serjeant at Law. His father, Alex ander, was a younger branch of the Maynards of Brixton, and removing to Tavistock, he resided in a house that stood on the site of the Abbey, where his son John Avas born. The character and fame of Maynard are so intimately connected Avith the history of this county, that they can alone be appreciated by those Avho render themselves familiar Avitli the stirring events of the years in Avhicli he lived. In the times of Charles I., though Clarendon says "he had too much complied and concurred Avith their irregular and unjust proceedings,'' he nevertheless argued stoutly against the treasonable measure of voting in the house that no more appeals or ad dresses be made to the king. During the struggle between popery and protestantism in the reign of James II., he stood firm, and throughout his long life he Avas not less distinguished for his integrity in public affairs than he Avas for his profound legal skill. lie frequently took his seat in the house as member for Beer Alston, a sraall town that Avas first represented in the reign of Elizabeth. Little is recorded of Maynard's private life, but that little is to his honour. He was of a munificent disposition, and managed Avith great care and pru dence the large sums of which he became trustee, for various charities, on the death of the donor, his friend Mr. Elizseus Healc. He also, from his own XXXI. J SIR J. MAYNARD. 345 estate, devoted a considerable sum to the uses of charity. He lived to a very great age ; and after the landing of King WiUiam, Avhen presented at court, the king on being told that Sir John May nard was upAvards of ninety years old, observed to him that he must haA'e outlived all the judges and eminent men of his day. " Yes," replied the veteran lawyer, " and I should have outlived the laws too, if it had not been for the happy arrival of your majesty." Sir John Maynard died in 1690, and was suc ceeded in his large possessions by a son, who be queathed them to his two daughters in default of raale issue ; both ladies Avere nobly married, the one into the house of Hobart, Earl of Buckinghamshire, and the other to the Earl of Stamford. Where Seijeant Maynard Avas buried I do not knoAv; there is no monument to him in our church, and his name is totally forgotten in the place ; not the slightest tradition exists concerning him, Avhicli induces mc to believe that he never resided at Tavistock after his entrance on public life. LIDFORD CASCADE, Situated at the distance of about seven miles from Tavistock. It has just occurred to rae, my dear Sir, that I have omitted sending some notice of a raost in teresting spot in our neighbourhood; I therefore add, by Avay of postscript to the foregoing letter, the following extract frora an old journal of Mr. Bray : — " The path that leads to the Cascade winds down a steep coppice-wood ; and the descent to the river q3 346 LIDFORD CASCADE. [lET. Lid, that floAvs beneath, is not a little difficult, being nearly covered Avith loose stones that slide under one at every step. But beforie the foot encounters these dangers, the eye may be gratified Avith a striking view of the toAver and castle of Lidford, backed by the distant hills of Dartmoor, at the end of a deep ravine, formed by the inter] unction of several woody promontories. " At the bottom of the hill, after walking a short distance by the side of the Lid, on turning round a projecting rock, the cascade bursts suddenly upon the sight. The surprise is for a while kept up by the appearance of such a continuity of foam rush ing from so precipitous a height. To this the native blackness of the rock, rendered raore so by the glossiness of humidity, forms a striking con trast. But, ere long, reflection shoAvs the defects that did not at first present themselves. The fall is too perpendiciUar to be picturesque ; and the space in front is so confined that you can hardly get either on the one side or the other to throw it into an oblique direction. It is not sufficiently wide, nor broken ; there being only one place, as seen from below, where there is any projection of the Avater. And the stream is generally so small that it merely trickles down the rock, unless increased by rains, or discharged in a ton-ent from the sluice above; for it is nothing but a mill-stream that is thus hurried from a Avoody height into the river Lid beneath. Sorae years ago the trees, Avhich have been since cut down and are succeeded by a Idnd of low cop pice Avood, served in a degree to break it, and cer tainly greatly added to the beauty of the scene. " In order to form an idea of the real height of the XXXI.] LIDFORD CASCADE. 347 cascade, I forced my way through the bushes, and over some boggy ground to the spot where what may be properly considered as the fall begins. It is a narrow channel between the summits of two Avoody promontories. That on the left terminates in a perpendicular rock about thirty feet above the stream. To avoid this obstacle Ave crossed the Avater and climbed up the opposite side. By the assistance of the boughs, for the Avhole is a coppice wood, we let ourselves doAvn on a rock about tAventy feet from the head of the cascade, at the bottom of what raay be called the first fall. Here the Avater flows doAvn the surface of a smooth sloping rock, alraost in a regular curve ; Arithin which is a deep hoUoAv recess, Avhich I at first thought the entrance to a cave, but found that it reached vea-y little within the sloping rock aboA'e described, A tree, throw ing itself across from the opposite side of this re cess, added much to the effect, Avhich was not a little increased by the fern and other pendant plants nodding on the top. " At this spot my servant tied a cord to one of the branches of the trees, and descended by the side of the stream, whilst I reraained to untie it when he should give the signal by shaking it. This being given, I foUoAved him and found for about fifty feet the channel is sinuous and broken. Here, as there is almost a straight and smooth descent, we threw the lead into the midst of the water, and it was car ried down with the utmost rapidity to the top ofthe last fall, the distance of about one hundred feet. "The effect of the cascade is here particularly striking, as you see an unbroken continuance of foam descending in a straight Une, till, by leaping 348 LIDFORD BRIDGE. [lET. OA'cr a more perpendicular fall, it is lost to the eye, aud the scene terminated by the flat and narrow dingle through which the river finds its way below. The scene Avas altogether so novel as hardly to appear naturab but seemed as if it were inverted by reflexion, and not much unlike the effect produced by bending the head so as to see objects vvith the eye almost upside down. Tho last fall is about sixty feet, so that the whole height, according to my cal culation, is about tvA'o hundred and thirty feet : of course, howeA'er, a deduction must be made from this oblique direction to bring it to its perpendicular or real height. " On ascending by the regular path, through the coppice, I could not but take a farewell look at the fall below. About half way up the path deviates to the bottom of a rock, Avhere you catch through the trees a view of the cascade in its greatest impe tuosity; and, at a considerable depth beneath, the same stream peaceably pursuing its course to join the Lid, small in itself, and still more diminished by the distance. " Lidford Bridge," continues Mr. Bray, " is, per haps, a greater object of curiosity than the water fall, from Avliich it is distant about half a mile ; as few bridges are so romantically situated, or buUt over so deep a chasm; while there are cascades innumerable, probably of equal height, and certainly of greater quantity of water. " It is not seen tiU the traveller, at a turn of the road, is almost upon it ; and many, it is said, have passed it Avithout knowing it was the object of their search. Camden teUs us that ' the water is not to be seen, but only the murmur to be heard.' This is XXXI.l LIDFORD BRIDGE. " 349 not the case at present; though a few years since, indeed, before some trees Avere cut down, it Avas so overhung vvith branches, and their shade, that the stream below could scarcely be distinguished. By this obscurity, also, a greater impression, no doubt, Avas made upon the raind, and the imagination Avas easily misled into exan'S'eration, oo " By destroying them, particularly on the north east side of the river, another disadvantage has ensued ; for, holding by their branches and resting against their trunks, it was possible to let one's self doAvn so as to have a view of the bridge overhead, and the Avater dashing amid the rocks beneath. It is best seen now from a field on the south-west side, through some trees, Avhence may be discerned the bridge covered with ivy hanging in wild luxuriance, the narrow and broken chasm, with some trees starting from its sides, and the Avater foaming below through its rocky channel. On the left hand Lid ford tovA'cr opportunely presents itself to improA'c and identify the picture. " Mr. Polwhele presents us with many different descriptions of the bridge, as Avell as the cascade at Lidford, but almost all of them greatly exagge rated. Risdon, as quoted by him, speaking of the river beneath, says, ' It maketh such a hideous noise, that, being only heard and not seen, it causeth a kind of fear to the passengers, seeming to thera that look down to it a deep abyss, and may be numbered araongst the AVonders of this kingdom.' " A person is said to have arrived at Lidford in the middle of the night, to the great astonishment of the inhabitants, on finding from him that he came in the direction of the bridge, as they knew it had 350 LIDFORD. [let. been lately broken down. The traveller, however, had remarked nothing more than that his horse had made a sudden spring; but on being after Avards led to the tremendous chasm, he was struck with a mingled sensation of horror, surprise, and thankfulness at the danger he had so providentially escaped, "Another remarkable occurrence happened not many years since on the same spot. Captain Williams having formed the dreadful resolution of destroying himself, rode from Exeter, late at night, to Lidford Bridge, and endeavoured to spur his horse over the parapet, as was afterwards disco vered by the marks of its shoes on the stones ; but finding his efforts useless he turned the horse adrift, and, in hopes to conceal the deed, threw the saddle and bridle over the bridge, and followed afterwards hiraself. But, as the forraer became entangled in the branches of the trees, they soon led to a dis covery, and the body of the unfortunate sufferer Avas found amid the rocks beloAv. "Lidford,* that hardly deserves uoav even the name of a village, was a place of such antiquity and consequence as, according to tradition, to have en tertained Julius Csesar and his whole army on his second arrival in this island. But in the year 997 it was spoUed and ravaged by the Danes at the time they pillaged and burnt the Abbey of Tavis tock, and laid siege to Exeter. "It recovered, however, from their inhuman de predations, and in the time of the Conqueror sent * Lidford, or Lyghatford, was a. town of some note during the Saxon heptarchy. Among " specimens of the names of places frora the Saxon Chronicle," Polwhele has " Illidaford, Lids-ford, Lidford." xxxi. J LIDFORD. 351 members to ParUament, and had one hundred and twenty-two, or according to others, one hundred and forty burgesses. Lidford sent members in the twenty-eighth and thirtieth of EdAvard 1. Indeed it appears by Doomsday Book that it was Avont to be taxed at the same time, and after the sarae manner Avith London itself. " And as a proof of its importance, the custody of the castle Avas generally committed to persons of the greatest quality. It is the largest parish in the county, or even in the kingdora, as it contains within its liraits the vA'hole forest of Dartmoor*. The im mense extent of this parish, and the distance of some of its hamlets and villages from the church, caused a petition from several of the parishioners to Walter, Bishop of Exeter, dated 13th September, 1260. In this petition they represented the inconvenience of their attending dirine serrice. In consequence of which the bishop ordered, Avith the consent of the patrons, that the inhabitants of Balbery and Pur- sliill, two villages on the moor, on account of their distance from Lidford, their mother church ' being eight miles in fair, and fifteen in foul Avea- ther,' should resort to Withecombe church; and for such their pririleges should pay their tithe lambs, and three parts of their offerings to the parson of Withecombe, and all other tithes to thefr mother church. "'Lidford had the privUege of minting in the Anglo-Saxon times.' The mint continued there but a short period, chiefly through the boisterous reign of Ethelred II,, and the coins are consequently rare. * By a late judicial decision, however, a portion of it belongs lo the parish of Widdecombe, or Withecombe. 352 LIDFORD CASTLE. [lET. There are two or three of them in the late Dr. Hun ter's cabinet.* "The Castle is a square building, standing on a heap or mound, probably artificial. The entrance is at the north-west. Before it is a spacious area, with a gentle slope, enclosed by two parallel mounds. At the end of this the ground begins to be very precipitous in its descent ; which continues, with tho opposite side alraost equally steep, till it joins the river near the bridge. Thus Lidford must have been a place of considerable strength, approachable only towards the north-east. This naturaUy accounts for its high antiquity ; as there can be no doubt but that the Britons availed theraselves of its local ad vantages in the earliest ages. '' The stairs and floors of the Castle cannot now be trodden Avithout danger, as the greater part of the boards are Avanting. The judge's chair, however, reraains, and the royal arms over it, in perfect preservation. The infamous Jeffi-ies is reported to haA'e beeu the last Avho presided in it. The only thing that seeras to have elevated the judge above the rest of the court, is a foot-board at the bottom of the chair. There are rails in front about eight feet distant, f The counsel-table has been removed only Avithin these foAV years. + The ascent to the roof, Avhence there is a striking and varied view of the neighbouring hiUs, intersected with deep dells, and bounded on the east by the Dartmoor * Polwbele's Devon, Vol. I, p. 242. t Since the above description of the Castle was written, it is so gone to ruin that nothing but the bare walls remain. X " AVe find upon record that fhe Assizes, at tho commencement of this period (temp. Edward I.), were held at Exeter and Lidford al ternately."— Polwhele, Vol. I, p. 270. XXXI.] ANOTHER CASCADE. 353 ¦tors, and on the Avest by those of CornAvall, is by steps carried up within the thickness of the wall. " To the dungeon, which is about sixteen feet by ten, the descent must have been by a ladder, and probably through a trap-door. If this were the case it Avas completely dark, as there is no Avindow in it, and the room above is lighted only by a single narrow loop-hole." Within this castle Avas the prison for offenders against the stannary laws, which, in an act of parliament of the year 1512, is described as " one of the most hanious, contagious, and detestable places in the realm." That it had not much improved in its repute a century after Avards, appears from Browne's raention of it in one of his poems in the reign of King James : " To lie therein oue night 'tis guest 'T were better to be stoned and prest. Or han"-"d — now choose vou whether," * "About half a mile distant from Lidford, up the river, is another Cascade, called Kitt's Steps, or Kitt's Hole. It is conjectured that the name of Kitt ori ginated from the circurastance of a Avoman called Catharine, or Kitty, having lost her life here. She was returning from market on the Oakhampton road, which passes very near it, and was riding on a horse Avith crooks, implements, it is believed, almost peculiar to the west of England. The river Lid was SAVoUen by some heavy rain that had lately fallen on the moor, Avhere it takes its rise, and both horse and rider Avere carried aAvay by the impetu osity of the torrent. The Avoraan Avas unfortunately droAvned, prevented probably by tbe crooks from * See Lyson's Hist. 354 kitt's steps. [let. "passing through the rocks ; but the horse was found quietly grazing on the bank of the rner below. " This ' cataract,' if it can be called so, may be said to be situated within the recess of a bold and precipitous hill ; but it is hardly deserving, I think, the name AA'hich is given to it by Polwhele of a ' high promontory .'' I heard no 'echoes of aquatic thunder among the hills;' but it is right perhaps to state that it had not raiiied the preceding day, nor indeed for many days before. It may be proper also to mention that sorae of the Avater is now taken from its original channel for the purpose of working a mine ; but as it falls again over some rocks about thirty feet fi-ora, and nearly opposite to, the cataract itself, it may be doubted Avhether the noise is not thus increased : at any rate one might naturally expect from this circumstance to find here something like an echo. When the Avheel is in motion and the machinery at AVork, which did not happen to be the case during my visit to it, there must of course be no small addition to the noise ; and yet I very much doubt whether, even then, it re-echoes among the hiUs. '¦ I was afi-aid I should find the scene much in jured by the mine ; but I have little . hesitation in saying that I think it an improvement, at least in point of picturesque effect. Over the river in the foreground is throAvn a singular kind of bridge, formed, I imagine, of part of an old wheel, or Avhim. Beyond it, at a little distance, is seen the main fall of the cataract ; and, considerably above it, a branch of the river is conveyed by a wooden aqueduct, supported upon rough poles, Avith the water drop ping in filaments from seA'cral parts of it, to an ^^^'•]' kitt's steps. 355 •OVei-shot wheel opposite. The accompanying ma chinery over the shaft, with the flag-staff on the highest summit at a distance, considerably diversify the scene; and, as the mine is in its infancy, the heaps of rubbish, Avith which it is too frequently ac companied, have not yet accumulated so as to offend ihe eye. " In order to form a correct idea of this cascade, it will be necessary to take a view of it from the top. The rock appears, by some convulsion of nature, to be split into two fissures, through only one of which the water flowed tUl lately, part of it being now carried through the other for the purpose of AVorking the mine. " From the centre mass, Avhich is about tAventy feet high, two or three large pieces of the rock, as may be seen fi-om the incumbent part, have fallen into the fissure, and have entirely covered it ; Avhich no doubt gave origin to the idea, that ' the Avater runs sorae Avay underground,' and, when overhung Avith brushAvood, Avhich is generally the case, the deception would be still more complete. I am con rinced that this channel could noA'er have been entirely forraed by 'the irresistible force of the waters,' as the surface on either side is flat and al most perpendicular. The rock is of a slaty nature, with its strata, unless Avhere it was probably forced out of its direction by the convulsion before aUuded to, dipping southward at an angle of about forty- five degrees. The chasm or fissure, through which the river begins to fall, at the depth of about five and twenty feet, is about ten across. Through it the machinery of the mine below, Avith the Avater that is conveyed to it faUing over some rough rocks, and 356 kitt's steps. [let. xxxi. forming a kind of secondary cascade, is a pleasing object; Avhilst through the other chasm are seen at a distance the church and castle of Lidford. VicAved from below, the Avater seems in the centre of the chasm to rush from beneath a rock, Avliich no doubt occasioned it to be called Kitt's Hole. After three or four obstructions in its course, it leaps over a ledge of rock in a perpendicular fall, but not more than twelve or fourteen feet in height, whilst the Avater in the basin beloAV is about elcA'en feet deep. end OF vol. II. Priuleil by VVii,lia.u Clowes .-in. I Sons, SUimford-Strci-t. LIST OF NOVELS, HISTORICAL, LEGENDARY, AND ROMANTIC, By Mrs. Bray. Each work, complete in 3 vols., may be had separate, or in the series, beautifully bound, price four shillings per volume. Published by Messrs. Smith and Elder, CornhUl, London. DE FOIX ; or. Sketches of the Manners and Customs of the I4th Century ; an Historical Roraance. In 3 vols. THE WHITE HOODS; an Historical Romance. In 3 vols. THE PROTESTANT; a Tale of the reign of Queen Wary. In 3 vols. FITZ OF FITZ-FORD; a Legend of Devon. In 3 vols, THE TALBA; or Moor of Portugal. In 3 vols. Lateltj published by Messrs. Longman & Co., London, WARLEIGH, or the Fatal Oak ; a Legend of Devon. In 3 vols. LETTERS; written during a Tour through Nor mandy, Britanny, and other parts of France. MEMOIRS of the LIFE of the late CHARLES A. STOTHARD, Esq., F.S.A , &c. &e. MRS. BRAY'S WORKS. Preparing for the press, By Mrs. Buay, COLLECTIONS AND RECOLLECTIONS ABROAD AND AT HOME. In 3 vols. " Truth is strange ; stranger than fiction.' ALSO TRELAWNY OF TRELAWN, or the Prophecy; i Legend of Cornwall, In 3 vols. "' The Talba.' It is but justice to say that there are very few beauties in the dramatic or the epic of our first poets, which Mrs. Bray has not most successfully rivalled." — Genlleman's Mugazine. " Mrs. Bray is well, and deserves to be yet better, known for her Historical Novels." — Quarterly Review. " All these volumes are indeed an addition to the high literary character of the fair and popular writer." — Literary Gazelle. '¦ Mrs. Bray stands alone amongst our female writers of romance ; she aims at a high standard, and accomplishes her object with mas culine energy." — Atlas, " "We pronounce Mrs'. Bray to he one of our first female novelists." — New Monthly Magazine, "The main incidents (of her novels) are of a fearful interest; the characters various, well conceived, and natural, and are cast with' great power and eflfect, — All Mrs, Bray's writings evince genius of the highest order in romance," — Athenaum. MRS. BR.AV'S AVORKS, "Mi-s Bray's works entitle her to rank with the Erst novelists-of her da^, '—The Times, <¦ Her romances will survive, an example of the permanence se cured by an adherence to the simplicity of nature, AVe scarcely know any one so well qualified to fill up the vacuum left by the death of Sir Walter Scott as Jlrs. Bray."— Genlleman's Magazine. " ¦ De Foix,' and ' The White Hoods,' may be consulted as very faithful and very pleasing chronicles of the elder day," — Quarterly Review. ' The White Hoods ' will, we think, stand very high in its clas; :re is a most interesting story, the most spirited sketches of ch; er, and most faithful pictures of the times," — Literary Gazette. ti i ^ ' A^''arleigh,' From her very first productions fo the volumes (Warleigh) now upon our table, her -works, one and all, are faitliful transcripts of history, heightened and Invested with every charm of fiction by the creative touch of genius — the necromantic power of imagination." — Court Journal. "The genius of Mrs. Bray has been so justly appreciated by an admiring public, and we ourselves entered so fully into the peculiar excellencies which characterize it, in the 36lst number of the Lite rary Chronicle, when reviewing her chivalrous story of ' De Foix,' that it will be no slight recommendation of ' The fVhite Hoods ' to say that, as an historical romance, it is not less distinguished by the pomp and circumstance of chivalry, by accurate delineatiou.s of every variety of ancient manners, by an interesting narrative, and a flowing, vigorous, and graceful style." — Literary Chronicle. " We are weU pleased to see another production from the authoress of ' De Foix.' That work alone showed Mrs. Bray possessed talents of no common class." — Monthly Review, MRS. BRAY'S WORKS. "In ' The Protestant' are some exquisite touches of nature; and scenes worthy to be ranked with v^ry high flights of poetry." — Gen tleman's Magazine. " Such scenes as these form the staple of Mrs, Bray's novel of ' The Protestant' The incidents of the tale follow oue another in breathless rapidity, according to the hurried and fearful nature of the times they illustrate. The heroine, Rose, is a beautiful creation, her suflFerings are many, and her constancy under them is heroical," — New Monthly Magazine. ''¦'Fitz of Fitz-ford' is wrought up with exquisite skill. The characters are finely discriminated, the descriptive parts admirable, and the narrative never flags, Mrs. Bray's knowledge is more varied and extensive than that of any other female writer ; she merits to be ranked with those illustrious females who have deserved weU of their country." — Family Magazine. "' The Talba' 'is one of those works that astonish us with the power of the writer, whilst they interest every feeling of the heart." — Western Luminary. " ' Tke Tallia' is her greatest work : its interest is deep and thrill ing ; the characters masterly ; and the scenes of a power and pathos that few novelists have equalled, and none excelled." — Norfolk Chronicle. "' AVarleigh.' Every person who admires a work of genius aud ta.ste will read this book." — Gentleman's Magazine. " ' AVarleigh.' In the volumes now before us, Mrs. Bray has given a striking proof that every subject, however well known, becomes new uuder the touch of genius." — fVoolmer's Exeter Gazette. 3 9002 01262 5209 « ,',h»iitei;i iv ' f ' ' '' .'? ^VW,'''' :''•? - 4 f'iti > ¦>;'*r 'fi\/.