'i^-y .*^| '¦•tj :|^:ji "11' -OR A SHORT ACCOUNT, OF — THE LIFE, ADVENTURES AND VOYAGES -OF- CAPT. GURDON L. ALLYN, Including Three Trips Around the World. WRITTEN BY HIMSELF, In the Seventy-ninth and Eightieth Years of his Age. NORWICH, CONN.: printed by GORDON WILCOX, I34 MAIN ST. 1879. At 5r^ PREFACE Many who know comparatively little of sailing a ship can write a book, and many ivho are proficient in seamanship and navigation are far from being proficient in a literary point of vieiu. But every intelligent officer of a vessel which makes long voyages has his journals and memoranda from which an ac count of his meanderings can be compiled. Every person^ •> life has its experiences which are of gen eral interest, and this is especially true of those ivho have wan dered much in different parts of the world. This humble narrative is a statement of facts aud inci dents unembellished by fiction and wide stretches of imagina tion. If it has no particular moral, we believe that it contains nothing immoral; and as people are differently constituted, some being able to find ''sermons in stones" and others stones in sermons, and hailstones at that, so let each one read for pleasure, profit, amusement or insiruction, and deduce a moral to suit himself if he can. THE A UTHOR. copyrighted by GURDON L. ALLYN, OF GALES FERRY, CONN , IN THE YEAR OF OUR LORD 1879. I was born in the village of Gales Ferry, which is pleas antly located on the left bank of the Thames River, in the County of New London and State of Connecticut, December 23d, A. D. 1799. My educational advantages were limited and none too well improved. I thought more of boats than of books, and preferred sailing, fishing and swimming to reading, writing and arithmetic. My father, a sea-captain, was, in consequence of the Non-Intercourse Act, English Orders in Council, and Bona parte's Milan Decrees, detained from his wonted avocation, and turned his attention to fishing and oystering, in which business my older brother and myself were early initiated and soon became proficient. My first trip of note was with my father to Newport, R. I., in May, A. D. 1809, in an inferior two-masted, half-decked sail-boat. A lad a little older than myself accompanied us. He and I were cold and wet and sea-sick, and sick of the sea, for we were out over night and had a very rough passage, and the other chap said he would not be so sea-sick again for five hundred thousand dollars. But boys, and sometimes men, make extravagant remarks. Daylight, smooth water and safe arrival at our destined The Old Sailors Story. port banished all thoughts of peril and sta-sickness, and my mind was diverted by the sights and scenes which greeted my vision. We were in Newport at the time of the annual election, and the election day was " a high day;" fights were com mon, and there seemed to be an antagonistic feeling between the white and colored population. I saw one of the sable sons of Ham, faultlessly arrayed, standing on one of the wharves at low water. He had white pants and a consequential air. A boatman approached him and without leave, license, warning or ceremony, pitched him of the white pants and consequential air into the soft, slimy, oozy, vicious mud of Newport harbor. '' O what a fall was that, my countrymen ! " In the spring of A. D. i8i i my father purchased a sloop of twenty tons burthen to ply between home and New York. This suited me for I was anxious to see the great city of which I had heard so much. We started on the eleventh of April with a fresh gale from E. N. E., intending to reach New Haven before night ; but after we had passed Faulkner's Island the gale increased, snow filled the air, and, when we hauled up for New Haven, the sails being old and filled with snow burst and blew away, leaving us in the trough of a heavy sea, at the mercy of the winds and waves, in a truly perilous condition. My father, apparently undaunted, headed her for Long Island, and told my brother to build a fire and draw some cider ; but the sloop gave a heavy roll and down came the The Old Sailor's Story. brick chimney with a crash, partly filling the little cabin with bricks and mortar, at which my fortitude deserted me and I bellowed well, but my father laughed at my fears, and in the blackness of night, with the sea raging and .the wind howl ing, we drifted helplessly. At two olclock the next morning we were almost ashore on Crane Neck, but father wore the sloop around, and barely escaping Eaton's Neck at daylight, by means of a new boat sail set in the pump, we arrived in Loyd's Har bor, one of the snuggest harbors in the world, where we found two large vessels had dragged their anchors and gone ashore high and dry.' The sloop Heroine, of Norwich, nearly new, was wrecked on Eaton's Neck early in the night and broke to pieces, the crew saving themselves, with one exception, by swinging out the main boom and crawling from its end into the high bank, where they dug a hole with their hands, into which they huddled together for shelter from the severity of the elements. The unfortunate exception was an Indian who stead fastly refused to desert the three hogsheads of rum which formed a part of the sloop's cargo. He was one of the mul titudinous army which have lost their lives in consequence of their devotion to rum. My father bought the sails of the Heroine, which he altered to suit our sloop, and we proceeded to New York, and from thence to the vicinity of Staten Island, where he procured a cargo of oysters, which he brought home and planted in the Thames. 8 The Old Sailors Story. \ James Madison was then President of the United States. There was a strong feeling of animosity between the Ameri cans and English. Many of the Revolutionary patriots were then living and England maintained the right of searching American vessels and taking therefrom those who appeared to be British subjects. By this means the mind of the pub lic was constantly kept excited, and an incident occurred in May of this year which increased this feeling. Commodore Rogers, in the United States frigate Presi dent, off the coast of Virginia, oh the evening of May i ith, fell in with a vessel and hailed her with, " What ship is that ? What ship is that ?" and a shot which struck the rriain-mast of the President was the reply. Commodore Rogers ordered a broadside, which silenced her guns and killed and wounded many of her men. Hailing, again, the commodore received a courteous an swer, that the ship was the " Little Belt," 2: British man-of- war brig. This was the first check the proud British Lion received from the American Eagle on the high seas, but by no means the last. Proudly declining proffered assistance, the Englishman bore away for Bermuda, and Commodore Rogers and the frigate President were the theme of every tongue and made a strong impression on my boyi.sh imagination. This also tended to fire the British heart and the proud English boasted that they could sweep our feeble navy from the ocean in a very .short time. But the sequel proved to the contrary, as every boy The Old Sailor's Story. who has read the history of the second war of the Ameri cans with England knows full well. No reading is more in teresting to brave and manly boys than the captures of the " Guerriere" by the " Constitution," of the " Frolic" by the " Wasp," of the " Macedonian" by the " United States," of the " Java" by the " Constitution," of the " Boxer" by the " Enterprise," of the " Cyane " and the " Levant " by " Old Ironsides," of the " Penguin " by the " Hornet," and the gal lant victories of Perry on Lake Erie and McDonough on Lake Champlain. The . news, incidents and comments of these glorious victories are among the most vivid recollec tions of my boyhood. In December, A. D. 1811, occurred the " Great Christ mas Snow Storm," the most severe I have ever known, the snow drifts being ten and fifteen feet in height. Many ves sels were wrecked and their crews perished. In June, A. D. 18 12, war was declared against Great Britain by the Congress of the United States, and from that time until the cessation of hostihties in A. D. 181 5, I fol lowed fishing and boating in summer and attended school in winter. I accompanied my father and brother in the little sloop, and after the war was over and the blockade was raised we launched out as far as Chesapeake Bay, taking out produce and returning with oysters for the New York market. In the summer. of A. D. 1817 I staid at home and stud ied arithmetic and navigation under the tuition of Norman B. Brown, an excellent teacher, very proficient in penman ship, who was ever pleased to instruct me. IO The Old Sailors Story. In A. D. 1819 I shipped mate of the sloop Thames, of for ty-eight tons burthen, Captain Christopher Allyn, master, bound to Charleston, S.. C. We made two trips. On the second passage out we had a very boisterous time, gale succeeding gale, but the sloop was a good sea-boat and we arrived at Charleston after fif teen days, where we loaded with cotton -and rice which we safely conveyed to New York. In January, A. D. 1820, we started from Gales Ferry for New York with a load of cord-wood. The day was pleasant but at about nine o'clock in the evening it hazed up and commenced snowing, with the 'wind from the east, and we hauled up for New Haven, but meeting with floating ice we anchored at the mouth of the harbor. The wind increased and we let go our secorid anchor, but the wind veered to the south, and having the vdiole rake of the sound we parted one cable and cut the other, and went head first, at very full tide, away above common high water mark on West Haven beach, where she bilged. Being insured we abandoned her to the underwriters, who got her off and repaired her. In the first half of this year I made two trips in the sloop " Romeo," Captain Alexander Allyn, one to Baltimore, Md., and one to Richmond, Va., taking out an assorted cargo, from New London, of cheese, potatoes, coffee-mills, shoes, leather, gridirons, etc., and returning with flour. On the 23d of June, A. D. 1820, I was master of the sloop Thames, bound to the West Indies with an assorted cargo of flour, bread, beef, pork, lard, butter, etc. The Old Sailors Story. 1 1 I had a long passage of about a month, being becalmed in the horse latitudes, but in course of time I disposed of my cargo at the island of St. Eustatia, and loading, partly there and partly at the island of St. Bartholomew, with sugar, proceeded safely to the port of New London. At the conclusion of this voyage the sloop was sold to Mr. Amasa Hyde, of Norwich, who retained my services as commander, and, with his brother Lewis as supercargo, we sailed for Charleston, S. C, in the latter part of September, with a cargo of produce. . Arriving there safely, we continued in Carolina waters through the winter, conveying cotton from the plantations to the port of Charleston and carrying back loads of brick. In May we loaded with tar at Georgetown, which we carried to New York and discharged. I then made a trip from Norwich to the West Indies, with Captain Jonathan Lester as supercargo, and having disposed of the cargo to good advantage, we took in a quantity of rum which we con veyed to Boston. Mr. Hyde, the owner, was well pleased with this year's transactions, for the sloop had paid him, in one year's time, more money than she cost him, the price he paid for her be ing $1,275. In the winter of A. D. 1821 and A. D. 1822 I was en gaged in the coasting trade in Carolina waters, and in the spring I returned with a mixed cargo to New York. On the 13th of October, A. D. 1822, I was married to Miss Sally S. Bradford, of Gales Ferry. We celebrated the fiftieth anniversary of our marriage in A. D. 1872, and at 12 The Old Sailor s Story. the present writing we have lived together as man and wife a little more than fifty-six years. In the winter of A. D. 1822 and A. D. 1823 my father was with me. We coasted in southern waters and bought a schooner of seventy-five tons burthen. Father took charge of her, and in the spring we loaded at Savannah for New York, where we arrived the same day although I sailed sever al days in advance. I made a trip in the spring and early summer of A. D. 1823 to Norfolk and Baltimore, carrying out potatoes and oats and returning with a full cargo of staves. In the summer of this year my brother Nathan and my self loaded the sloop with a cargo of wood for New York. We took our wives along to see the wonders of the great metropolis and we had a very enjoyable time. Disposing of the wood we proceeded to South Amboy where we loaded with potter's-clay for Norwich. My brother sailed with an old friend of ours, in Sep tember, for Savannah, but alas ! he never reached his pro posed destination. He died of a fever on the passage and was buried where so many rest until the time when the "sea shall give up its dead." My father having overhauled our schooner, the " Three Sisters," and his health being poor, he wished me to sail with him this fall which I accordingly did. We took a cargo to Baltimore ; thence a cargo of flour and oats to Charleston. Finding business dull in those parts we proceeded to Eliza beth City where we loaded with staves, shingles and corn for the West Indies. We stopped at Barbadoes and finding no The Old Sailor's Story. i^ o market for our cargo we proceeded to St. Vincent's where we found a good market. • Here my father's health failed, and in spite of medical assistance he grew worse instead of better. I desired that he should have rooms on shore. To this he objected, but desired to be taken on deck for purer air. We had a thick .sail-cloth awning overhead. Under this he laid and took his medicine and drinks regularly. On Friday he was able to go ashore and seemed quite cheerful. Saturday he appeared more feeble ; and between Sunday night and Monday morning he died without a strug gle in the fifty-ninth year of his age. This was in April, A. D. 1-824, and of our family of five, death had taken two in less than eight months, leaving m)- widowed mother, my only sister and myself Mr. Newbold, our consignee, made proper and suitable arrangements for my father's burial ; and having attended to this solemn duty I, with a sad heart, turned my attention to my vessel and cargo. I took in about fifty puncheons of molasses and pro ceeded to North Carolina where l discharged the same, and finding freight dull for the north, I made a bargain with Shaw & Co., of Elizabeth City, to take another cargo of staves and shingles to the We-St Indies. I intended to have gone to Antigua but easterly winds prevailing I put into Port Antone, Jamaica, where 1 made a rap for the whole cargo — shingles, invoiced at $2.25, bringing $14 per M.; red oak staves, invoiced at $8, worth $65 per 14 The Old Sailor s Story. M.; and white oak staves and heading, invoiced at $i8, worth $75 per M. But here I was stricken with the yellow bilious fevef ; and although I was taken ashore and had good care, for ten days or more my life was despaired of, and in the mean time my mate died of the same dreadful scourge. As soon as my fever left me and I had gained a little strength I became very nervous and at times delirious. At such times I had gloomy forebodings and imagined' all sorts of evil. One morning I thought I heard my landlady cay : "That fellow is alive yet. I will have a grave dug and bury him alive." The window was open and the schooner was in sight. Out of the window I went, fourteen feet from the ground, into a pile of ballast-stones and broken bottles. Sus taining no material injury (I believe I barked one of my shins) I dove from the wharf and swam for the schooner. The boat belonging to her being on its way ashore, the sail ors took me in and conveyed me on board. The captain of a Newfoundland brig, which lay near us, came on board, and by his advice and assistance I had a warm bath and was put to bed, where I had a short nap which somewhat refreshed me. But the hypo taking pos session of my brain, I dove from the cabin window with an insane desire to end my existence. But the water had a cooling, soothing effect on my nerves and brain, and being taken on board and carefully watched I gradually recovered. By the advice and assistance of a gentleman of the place, R. .Sherwood, Esq., my vessel was loaded and I sailed The Old Sailor's Story. 15 .for home by the windward passage. But after five or six days of pleasant weather, owing to some miscalculation, in stead of safely entering Crooked Island passage we struck, in the night, on the Hogsties, a collection of reefs and islets situated to the south and east of our proposed passage ; and the wind increasing the vessel was wrecked, that is, she pounded a hole in her bottom but did not break up. We landed on a little island about two miles from the wreck, where we continued in camp fqr sixteen days, making occasional trips to the wreck for what we most needed. At the expiration of that time a ship hove in sight and seeing our signal came to our relief The ship was bound from St. Domingo for New York with a valuable cargo €>i coffee. The captain generously of fered to take us and our dunnage, but refused to have any thing to do with the wreck or cargo, thinking it would affect his insurance, which was probably correct on his part. Hopipg to realize something from the wreck and wrecked cargo, I re fused to abandon the same, and requesting him to report us and our condition at Crooked Island, after putting one boy in his care, we saw him sail away and we felt more lone some and melancholy than before. Be it remembered we were far from home and in a deso late, uninhabited region, with poor accommodations, in what is known and feared as the hurricane season, on a little island perhaps ten feet above the sea-level, which in case of a hur ricane would probably be submerged. But after weary, anxious days of waiting, a sloop from Crooked Island came to our relief, and after securing all 1 6 The Old Sailors Story. available cargo and stripping the wreck, she took us on board and conveyed us to the port of Nassau. About the time of my arrival there I was taken sick with intermittent fever ; but I survived, and after settling with the wreckers and paying my -crew I had less than forty dollars. I took passage in a small schooner to Charleston, S. C, where I arrived in low spirits on the first of September, A. 1 ). 1824, in the height of a yellow fever scourge, and found that my friends of that place were absent in the country. With only about five dollars that I could call my own, utterly broken down in mind and body, I procured a permit and went to the Marine Hospital, where for six weeks I was very sick and very kindly cared for. When I had somewhat recovered, the doctor, or chief surgeon, Campbell, pointed me out to the visiting commit tee as his " resurrection man." One morning in November J read in the paper of the arrival of the schooner Arkansas, Captain Wood, and sloop Humbird, Captain Satterlee, both from the north and both captains particular friends of mine. This was cheering intelligence and I soon rallied. Cap tain Wood offered me a free passage to New York, which 1 gladly accepted and arrived there safely. Captain Charles Davidson, of the little steamer Fanny, gave me a free passage through the sound and landed me at Gales Ferry, where I found my friends in usual health and my wife with a fine boy, four months of age, in her arms. By hook or by crpok 1 weathered the winter, and in The Old Sailor's Slory. i 7 April, A. D. 1825, went mate of the sloop Favorite, at $14 per month, with Captain Sanford Stoddard, to Norfolk with potatoes. Here I received a satisfactory letter from John A. Shaw & Co., of North Carolina. They owed me about $300 on my two West India car goes. They paid me $100 and promised to pay the remain der, but now, after the lapse of fifty-three years, the remain der is still unpaid. Arriving home, via Providence, about the first of May, I made a short trip to New York, and on my return I was recommended by an old friend, Captain John Wood, to Mr. Joseph Lawrence, as sailing-master of a new schooner called the Spark, Captain Lebbeus Gardner being captain and half ,owner. I continued with Captain Gardner until about Thanks giving, in the New York and Baltimore trade, and my fami ly being sick staid at home a few weeks and then made six trips in the sloop Thames, carrying cord-wood to New York, which brings me to March, A. D. 1826. At this time Messrs. Bangs & Kilburn, of Hartford, of fered me a mate's berth on the brig Merchant, Captain John King, which I accepted. Captain King was none too well versed in navigation, and made stupid calculations, for after getting, according to my calculations, at least six degrees to the eastward of the Hole- in-the-Wall, he was afraid of the land and ran three days and- hove to three nights before^ sighting the same ; and after getting on to the Bahama banks, he ran ashore to find out which side of the channel he vias en, and if we had not 1 8 The Old Sailors Stoiy. kedged off as we did we should have been wrecked then and there. As it was he broke one of the rudder gudgeons which made steering hard work. After a deal of miscalculation we ran by the port of Matanzas, to which we were bound, so far that it took us nearly all of one day to beat back. But after a time we arrived and spent five weeks in discharging and loading, all by means of our long boat, which carried five hogsheads, conveying articles from and to the vessel, a distance of two miles each way. About the first of June, A. D. 1826; we sailed for New London, where we arrived and discharged part of our cargo, proceeding to Hartford with the remainder. When we unloaded we smoked her out and killed up wards of two hundred rats. The remainder of the summer I spent in overhauling vessels for Bangs & Kilburn. Most of the time I was at tending to the brig Sea Island, unloading, overhauling and reloading her, the brig Merchant in the meantime making a voyage to Demerara with bricks, flour, leaf tobacco, segars and horses. The Merchant returned iri November and I had orders to repair on board of her; and after discharging she was loaded with provisions and produce, with ten horses and one hundred and fifty swine on deck. Captain Henry Barnard was to command, but the pa pers were made out in my name as Captain Barnard was to remain in Cuba to procure cargoes for other vessels, while I was to bring the brig home. Our destination was Matan- The Old Sailor s Story, 19 — ¦ — ^ __ zas, and after waiting for a favorable time we sailed from New London December loth, A. D. 1826. We sailed with the wind northwest, in hopes of having a quick passage, but the next day the wind veered to south west, with a heavy head beat sea, and the swine were not only well washed, but, with the exception of seven, like the swine into which the devils entered, they perished in the wa ter ; and of the seven that escaped, five were afterwards con fiscated by the Cubans, Captain Barnard neglecting to put them on the manifest, intending them for slaughtering on board. We had constant gales during the entire passage of twenty-three days, the brig leaking badly, requiring con stant pumping. We arrived at Cuba in January, A. D. 1827, and sailed for home in February. Had pleasant weather for the first few days and made good progress, but, in latitude thirty-four degrees north, took a strong breeze from the south, and shortened down to close reefed top-sails, and after judging myself past Cape Hatteras hauled up north, having heavy squalls from the southwest and the pumps constantly going. We were in the Gulf Stream, bowling along at the rate of eleven knots, when the wind suddenly shifted to the north ward, and in two hours' time our climate seemed changed from summer's heat to winter's cold, and our rigging was covered with ice. The wind veered to the northeast, and for three days we were close hauled on both tacks, and on the fourth morn ing one of the sheathing planks floated off, and the leak in- 20 Tlie Old Sailor's Story. * creased fearfully, so that both pumps constantly working could not keep her free. Being north of the Gulf Stream, off the coast of Delaware, in twenty fathoms df water, I bore off for the capes of Vir ginia, but the weather became as thick as burgoo, and after standing in to five fathoms on the Virginia coast, hove to, head off shore,with one top-sail aback, and all hands and the cook pumped for their lives. After pumping for a day and a night, without decreas ing the depth of water in the hold, we stove the heads of the twenty hogsheads of molasses which formed the deck- load, which seemed to ease her a little. About this time the wind changed to the west, and, af ter making all sail and heading to the north, we made • a search for the leak ; staving three hogsheads of molasses in the port wing, and cutting away the ceiling plank, found a fearful leak just below the loaded water-line, in the vicinity of the port fore chains. With much difficulty we succeeded in stopping it par tially, so that after a hard day's work all round, the nien gave the cheering intelligehce that the pumps' sucked. But the danger was not over, for it required constant pumping to keep her free. But after a few more days of blowy, rough weather we arrived safely in New London on about the eighth of Mareh; A. D. 1827. The work of pumping was confided to other hands, and I started for Gales Ferry on foot, where I found my wife with a fine, plump boy of five months in her arms. The Old Sailors Story. 21 '^ • And so ended this wearisome and dangerous voyage. After discharging sufficient cargo to bring the leak out of water, proceeded to Hartford with the residue. The Con necticut River being twenty-one feet higher than at common low water, we discharged into the second story of Morgan's warehouse, the lower story being submerged. Here the old brig narrowly escaped taking fire from the burning of a negro house in the immediate vicinity, but the sails being wet, and we letting her swing off into the stream with great haste, she escaped the conflagration. After being overhauled and thoroughly calked and re- fastened the " Merchant " was again loaded with a general careo, and another deck-load of those animals w'.iich the Jews abhor, and leaving Saybrook bar April 29th, after a fine, quick passage, arrived at Matanzas May iith, A. D. 1827, and commenced discharging, with the hogs on deck, as the man to whom they were consigned was absent in the country. They were much in our way, as they remained until our in-board cargo was unloaded and our ground tier of molasses for return cargo was stowed. We loaded and started for home June 23d, Captain Barnard, before men tioned, taking passage with us. The northeast trades being strong we had a pretty rough passage between the Bahamas and the Florida coast, but nothing worthy of note occurring until we arrived in the latitude of Cape Fear. Captain Barnard, being an old West India skipper, and part owner of the cargo, would often dic tate to the mate concerning the course of the vessel. In the mateis watch, on July 3d, he changed the course which I had 22 The Old Sailor s Story. % . . ordered from northeast to north-northeast. When I found this out I remonstrated with him, but he vowed that we could steer north and then pass one hundred and fifty miles to the east of Cape Hatteras. Being self-willed he declared that he was right, and \ let him have his way, although I felt convinced that he was wrong, which he was as the sequel proved, for at eleven o'clock we made a light, and sounding found we had but nine fathoms inside of the dangerous shoals of Cape Look out, part of which are dry at low water. He gave orders to stand to the southeast, which would most certainly have brought us to grief, but I told him to keep quiet and I would stand boss awhile, and by stretching to the west, then to the southeast, and repeating this maneuver, we succeeded in weathering the outer shoals, the most dangerous on the whole coast. The next day being Independence Efey the old chap re marked, while nipping his champagne, that we were more independent than he expected to have been one spell last night. Still he would continue to alter the course, and when we made Cape Hatteras, which is no place fc^r fooling as many well know, at certain seasons of the year, we were heading inside of the light and had to braee up and haul off for a long distance. But after rounding the cape we proceeded safely past Montauk, and again the old skipper was determined to have his way, and instead of stopping at New London to lighten, The Old Sailor's Story. 23 as was customary, he said steer for Saybrook and proceed to Hartford. This was a good move for the river was high, and al though drawing fourteen feet of water, we proceeded as far as Log bar without lightening, thereby saving detention and expense to the owners. Another voyage was already planned by our enterpris ing firm to Surinarn, Dutch Guiana, with assorted in-board cargo and a deck-load of horses, and Captain Douglass was to command and I was to be his mate. We had a very good run until we had reached the lati tude of twenty-seven degrees north, longitude fifty-five de grees wiest, which was the meridian of the port to which we were bound, when we were caught in one of those violent hurricanes to which this part of the ocean is subject, com mencing on the morning of the twenty-third of August. It blew a strong breeze the previous night, but about three o'clock A. M. the wind increased fearfully and the seas ran terribly high. Not being able to lay to we scud under a very little sail. That blowing away we continued under bare poles, yawing much, until a heavy sea striking her port quarter she broached to and fell over on her beam ends with the horses flounder ing in the water. We cut the main rigging and the main-mast fell with a crash, and she righted and fell off before the wind. After this the captain took an extra nipper and stowed himself away, while the wind roared like steam from an escape valve, and I steered the entire night, my endeavor 24 The Old Sailors Story. * ^ being to keep her directly before the wind and sea. It was no easy matter, for being deeply laden she labored fearfully and the steering apparatus was only the old fashioned tiller and tackles. Sometimes my fatigue was so great that I was tempted to abandon my post, but knowing that certain de struction would inevitably ensue I .determined to hold out as long as I could. Daylight brought no relief to our shattered bark. The gale raging no less fiercely great gloom was upon us. The next morning our supercargo decided to throw the horses, fifty-six in number, into the raging deep, an opera tion which was performed with great difficulty. It was sad to see the poor brutes struggling in the sea with their heads thrown frantically out of water, but our hay was washed away and the salvation of our lives seemed to demand the sacrifice of theirs. Freed of their weight the brig labored less heavily, and the wind subsiding a little I was relieved from the helm. The captain then called on me to fix one of the cabin windows, the dead-light being broken and a sea-bed jammed into it. I had been at the helm over twenty-four hours and felt exhausted, and thought the drunken captain might fix his own window ; but as we had no second mate I crawled for ward through the manger and obtained a piece of board, but a gust struck me on my way back, and instead of blowing away with the board I let the board blow away without my company. I steered, after a few hours' relief, until about The Old Sailor's Story. 25 midnight, the brig steering badly and shipping a great deal of water. I then went «below for dry clothing and some refresh ment. Captain Lester informed me that the wind had blown from all points of the compass, it being a regular cy clone and a tremendous one. At nine o'clock the next morning the gale broke and the sea smoothed down almost immediately, and we turned our attention to clearing up the wreck. The brig Betsey Dole, of Middletown, which we had spoken three days before the gale, was one of many ves.sels that were lost with all hands, and never heard of more. We rigged a jury-mast and in a crippled condition made our way back to the American coast. One night we were run into by a ship which gave us a glancing blow, breaking top timbers and cat-head and rob bing us of one anchor ; but in just one month from- the time we sailed we re-entered the harbor of New London Septem ber 13th, A. D. 1827, having survived one of the most se vere gales on record, and making while absent a circuit of more than two thousand five hundred miles. The enterprising owners wishing to prosecute this voy age bought the brig Governor Griswold, to which our in board cargo was transferred with additions, and taking sixty horses on deck we had a fair passage to the mouth of the Surinam River. The captain and supercargo proceeded to the town, about twenty miles, and made arrangements for the transfer 26 The Old Sailor's Story. of our cargo to Demerara, which port at this time was closed to American vessels. A part of their arrangements was for us to proceed to the little river which forms the boundary between the Eng lish and Dutch colonies, forty miles nearer Demerara than the mouth of the Surinam. To that place we proceeded and our cargo was taken from us in small vessels. We con tinued there about three weeks and suffered untold aggrava tion and inconvenience on account of the mosquitoes which were very large, very numerous and very blood-thirsty. One night our cabin-boy went into the cabin to set the ta ble for tea, but the stern windows being open the mosqui toes had literally taken possession, and the poor lad, with howls of rage, beat an inglorious retreat, leaving all the in sects which could not possibly fasten to every exposed part of his person. That night we drank our tea on deck under the awn ing. After unloading we proceeded to the Rio de la Hatche, where flour at that time was -worth fifty dollars per barrel, but unfortunately we had none to sell. We loaded there with dye-woods, which were brought to us in the night, and setting sail for home January loth, A. D. 1828, we proceeded until detained by fog in the vicinity of somewhere. When the fog lighted we sighted Gay Head, and hav ing strong westerly winds we took a pilot and put into Tar paulin cove. After being detained three or four days we proceeded to New London, arriving there about the twelfth of F"ebruary. The Old Sailor's Story. 27 The operation of taking the pilot cost the owners about sixty-five dollars. We then loaded for Cuba with hogs on deck, sailing in March, and after a common kind of passage we arrived at Matanzas where we took in a full cargo of sugar and molas ses, with which we returned after a remarkably quick passage. Congress had recently enacted a new tariff law doubling the duties on foreign imports, to take effect on the first of the next July. So we took in a light cargo for Cuba, and it being the middle of May we were in a hurry, but we had a long passage. However, the agent loaded us, with instruc tions to hasten to the nearest American port, and we had the satisfaction of arriving at Charleston June 30th, A. D. 1828. After unloading we proceeded to New London where we ar rived about the twentieth of July. The next voyage was to the windward West Indies where we discharged cargo for trans-shipment to Demerara. Sailing about the middle of August we arrived at St. Bar tholomew's about the middle of September. Shipping the bulk of our cargo and selling what suited the market in that place, we proceeded with the balance to La Guayra in Vene zuela, at the foot of the Caraccas mountains, the distance from the seaport to the capital being twelve miles by a zig zag road. All merchandise has to be conveyed on the backs of sure-footed mules, and if the mule should lose his foothold, he and his rider and his lading, which is sometimes a barrel of beef, would be dashed on the rocks many hundred feet below. The Old Sailors Stoiy. La Guayra has an open roadstead, being only a long bend in the land and the swell from the north rolls in heavily. We were there in September, with the sun at meridian, al most directly overhead, and to say the least it was hot. The reflection of the sun from the mountain side could be sensi bly felt through two thicknesses of sail-cloth awning. After disposing of all that we could sell to advantage we proceeded to Porto Cabello where we found a good har bor but no market for our dry goods. It took us seven hours to weigh our anchor at this place, for an old rusty ship's an chor, which would weigh three thousand pounds, was at tached to ours, looking old enough to have been left there by Columbus on his third voyage, when he discovered the continent near this place. We touched at Curacoa where we found no market for our goods, and as a last resort we proceeded to Port Hatche, where we sold what we could and loaded with dye-wood for home, where we arrived in November, about the time of the election of General Jackson as President of the United States. Bangs &. Kilburn had failed and I was out of employ ment, but I purchased a small interest in a sloop called the Juno, and took a load of potatoes to Philadelphia in De cember, Returning home in January, A. D. 1829, I laid by a spell, but in the latter part of February took in a quantity of ice, hacked out in all shapes, and started for Savannah, Ga. The ice melted considerably and sold to poor advan tage, there being no ice-house in the place to store it in ex- The Old Sailo7'-'s Story. 29 "cepting one belonging to a Boston ice company who monopo lized the trade. I made'a short river trip; thence a trip to and from Norfolk with corn ; thence to Philadelphia with cotton and rice in company with the schooner Spark, Cap tain Charles Poole ; thence a cargo to New York ; thence a car|;o to New London"; and from there I proceeded to Bos ton with a load of oil. Arriving home I overhauled the sloop, and times being dull laid up for a while I had an offer to take charge of a brig to Demerara, but Mr. Lawrence and Major Williams, who owned part of the sloop, made me out a freight for Philadelphia, and I re turned with the second cargo of coal ever discharged at New London, and this was in August, A. D. 1829. On the twenty-fifth of October I was master of the schooner Spark, of eighty tons burthen, bound on a sealing voyage to the South Atlantic. My officers were Edward P. Dewy, of Stonington, first mate ; George Brewster, second mate; Al fred Allyn, of Ledyard, third mate. One Chase, cooper, and Samuel Cooley, steward. Among the seamen were Strong Holt, of New London, afterwards a successful whaling captain, who was drowned from a pleasure boat in Fisher's Island Sound ; Samuel Hart, William Hanks, George Kings bury, and William Hall, who afterwards became a lawyer, all of Hartford, and five others, making a total of sixteen to man a little schooner which could be easily managed by two men and a boy in ordinary weather. After twenty-three days we arrived at one of the Cape De Verde Islands where we found two sealing vessels, the 30 The Old Sailor's Story. brig Seraph, of Stonington, and the schooner General Put nam, of Newburyport. Procuring three hundred bushels of salt we mated with the Putnam and proceeded for sealing grounds. Crossing the equator in the longitude of eighteen degrees west, we proceeded with more or less celerity and arrived on the barren coast of Africa, in the latitude of twenty-six degrees south, on January 14th, A. D. 1830. At that place is a small island, a mile or more from the coast, on the inside of which there is a fair anchorage. This island, called Ichabb, is the rendezvous of millions of sea- birds, which there lay their eggs and hatch their young ; and we obtained at this time and afterwards quantities of eggs, many of which are excellent for food. The birds were so thick as to prevent our traveling on shore without first beat ing a pa::sage way with our seal-clubs, and yet we endeavored not to hurt them, although ,they regarded us as intruders and attacked us with ferocity, scratching and biting with such effect as to draw blood through the legs of our panta loons. We were plentifully supplied with eggs during the fif teen months that we were on this coast, our men eating gulls' and penguins' eggs without much distinction, although the former are much superior. We had arrived at this island too late for this season, for an examination of the shore revealed about a thousand carcasses of seal which had been deprived of their skins by those who had arrived there on a similar errand to ours. The Old Sailor's Story. 31 A few words descriptive of seal and sealing may not be amiss in this conrjection. The males, called wigs, are much larger than the females, and weigh, when full grown, from fifty to eighty pounds. The females, called clapmatches, weigh from four to ten pounds, and commence breeding when they are three years of age. The males come on shore about the first of November and land short distances from each other all along the coast of the uninhabited islands or regions which form their breeding grounds. A few days after this the females emerge from the water and are escorted, after a fierce battle among the males who are stationed in the vicinity, by the victo rious male who escorts the newly-arrived female to a secure place. At this time the males are very savage and will bite through each others napes which are of the thickness of a man's hand. Some are killed in the conflicts, which seems unwarrantable, for the females instead of being few are nu merous in comparison with the males, and average about twenty of the former to one of the latter. The coast was well sealed and we could only glean a few from the roughest rocks. Six days passed and our consort, the Putnam, arrived; and as we were likely to fall short of water, this being a bar ren, sandy coast, without rain oftener than once a year, we put our water-casks and our mate on board of her and des patched her south to Saldana Bay, while her captain came 32 The Old Sailor^ s Story. on board of our vessel and proceeded with us to seal al^ng the coast. We found a few seal at each landing, but as our con sort did not arrive in due time we beat towards Saldana Bay, the wind constantly prevailing from the south, and on our arrival there found the Putnam had left, and the wliale ship Dauphin, Captain Huzzey, of Nantucket, lying in the harbor with the captain on shore recruiting his health. At night, in a sudden squall from the southwest, the old Dauphin parted her cable and before the second anchor could be cast out she was nearly in the breakers ; the second cable parted and in less than an hour she was a complete wreck, with her masts all gone and deck uptorn, for being an old ship with a new top, the new part left the old and parted company in a hurry. The captain rode down the next day anS viewing the wreck, quite coolly remark^ that if he pulled out his hair and threw it into the fire that would not mend the matter. So he returned to his quarters after giving some directions to Mr. Russell his mate. The next day I called on Mr. Marsh, the magistrate and chief man of this English out-post, who entertained me very civilly, and having procured some wood from the wreck, and filled our spare casks with water of a poor quality, pro ceeded to Angra Pequena harbor, where we found our con sort and obtained from her our casks of water on March 1 8th, A. D. 1830. It being between season, I concluded to return to Saldana Bay, if possible, before the auction of the effects saved from The Old Sailor's Story, 33 the Dauphin, being in want of an anchor; and the Putnam, with my second mate and boat's crew, proceeded to seal along the coa.st. We procured an anchor from the wreck of the Dauphin, also a main-top-sail, which we altered into a main-sail for ovir schooner. But minute account of any voyage are too prolix and tedious for general reading, so I will give a few extracts from memoranda which possibly may be interesting to some and of less interest to others. On the fifth of April, A. D. 1830, natives or Hottentots cattle twelve days' journey from the interior to the harbor of Angra where we were, with cattle and sheep to barter for powder and ball for hunting purposes. We bought five neat cattle and two .sheep, paying two junk bottles of powder each for the former and one bottle apiece for the latter. On the sixth of May the captain of the Putnam sent word that he should dissolve partnership with us from that date. He had discovered, as we afterwards learned, what he supposed was a gold mine, but which proved to be a worth less mineral substance, as he found after taking a quantity of it to Cape Town to have it tested. From this time until September 6th, when we again joined in partnership, we took from five to six hundred seal skins, no part of which belonged to the Putnam and her of ficers and crew. On the thirteenth we obtained one hundred and seventy- five heavy fur seal-skins. The Old Sailor's Story. The whole coast of this region is a sandy desert, and the natives who wander to and along shore, coming several days' journey from the interior, are the most, miserable speci mens of humanity I have ever seen. They like tobacco and will barter anything they possess to procure it. They are" nearly or quite naked, oil themselves from head to foot, and eat birds' eggs, offal, or anything they can prbcure to sustain their miserable existence. They offer in trade ostrich egg-shells, from which they have extracted the inside through a hole in one end, and also feathers of the largest known bird ; but the feathers, like themselves, are in a dirty, greasy and unpresentable condi tion. On November 2 ist we took two hundred and thirty-four prime seal-skins ; December 29th, two hundred and thirty seal-skins ; December 31st, two hundred and fifty skins. So ends the year of our Lord 1830. January ist, A. D. 1 831, took five hundred skins ; March 2d we took seven hundred and forty skins, which was a good days work and attended with great labor and excitement. On March 21st, at four o'clock P. M., we bore away for North America with all sail set and all hands in the best of humor. We were glad to bid adieu to the wearisome em ployments and enjoyments of African life, and with a fair wind we were soon going at the rate of nine knots. The sailing from the coast of Africa, in latitude twenty- five degrees south, to the equator, in good weather and with a fair wind for three thousand miles, is the most pleasant sailing I have ever experienced. TJie Old Sailor s Story. 35 On the twenty-ninth of March we stopped at Jamestown, the only port of the island of St. Helena, where I was very kindly received and entertained by the American vice-consul, William Carroll, Esq. Here I sold three casks of bread and obtained fresh vegetables for the crew, who had liberty on shore and a dollar apiece for spending money. I made a visit to Bonaparte's tomb ; and the next day, having got all hands on board, who were inclined to be wild and mutinous until they recovered from the effects of that for which they had spent their dollars, at.tvi^elve o'clock noon St. Helena bore southeast by south, five leagues distant, from which we took a new departure. From March 30th to April 12th we averaged upwards of one hundred and fifty miles per day, then baffling, variable winds until the nineteenth, when we took the northeast trade winds in latitude six degrees fourteen minutes north, and pro ceeded on our way rejoicing. We navigated by dead reckoning and lunar observa tions, and proceeded towards our destination at the rate of nearly two hundred miles a day. On the twenty-fifth found the head of the main-mast sprung and reefed the main-sail. On the twenty-sixth found the skins heating in the af ter hold and overhauled them. On the third of May we passed the Bermudas about forty miles to the west of us. On the sixth spoke the schooner Amanda Malvina from Charleston for Boston. His longitude differed mate rially from mine. He was only five days out of port and three degrees east of his reckoning, having been swept along o 6 The Old Sailors Story. by the Gulf Stream for which he had not made due allow ance, while I, not having had no new departure since leaving St. Helena, was not ten miles from my reckoning. So much for lunar observations when correctly taken. On May loth, at daylight, we had the joyful sight" and sound of " Land Ho!" and Block Lsland bore north about fifteen miles distant. At three P. M. Samuel Hart was washed overboard from the jib-boom, in the Race-rip, but with the assistance of Strong Holt, who seized the end of a line and swam to him^ he was soon rescued. We anchored in New London May loth, A. D. 183 1, after an absence of more than a year and a half, having made a satisfactory voyage to the owners and all concerned. After recruiting awhile, my friend Captain John Poole, of New London, who had built a schooner of about eighty tons, called the Talma, induced me to go in her with his son, Charles Poole, in the southern coasting trade. We started in July, carried cheese to Norfolk and Baltimore, and returned home with pine wood and watermelons. Our next trip was to Philadelphia, whence we conveyed coal to New York, and arrived at New London early in Sep tember. We next took seven hundred bushels of potatoes and twenty-six tons of cheese for the late Captain Acors Barnes, of New London, from Norwich to Norfolk and Baltimore, Captain Barnes taking passage with us. Arriving at Norfolk we left a part of the cheese with Anderson & Goodrich and proceeded to Baltimore. The Old Sailors Stoiy. t,"/ After selling the remainder of our cargo there we loaded with flour for New York. We next sailed on December gth, with an assorted cargo and a few passengers, from New York to Havana, and had a nine days passage. We were detained in Havana some time, owing partly to the Cuban's observance of the holiday season, and then went to New Orleans with a load of coffee and sugar.: In February, 1832, we made a short trip up the river for molasses for a New Orleans distillery ; and business being dull we purchased, at Bayou LaFouche, a full cargo of molasses on the vessel's ac count, and after being detained a long time in loading, after a long passage arrived at New London about June ist, A. D. 1832. I had three applications to go. sealing, and Captain Poole, handing he could dispose of the Talma to good advantage if I would go in her, which I consented to do, sold her to Mr. Joseph Lawrence with whom I made arrangements for a pretty good lay and bonus. We sailed in the latter part of July, at the height of the first cholera in New York, and although most of my crew were from that city we had no cases of it on board. My mates were Stephen Perkins, of Gales Ferry ; John Hill, of Stonington ; and Orlando Bolles, of New London, first, sec ond and third respectively. We arrived at the Cape De Verde Islands after quite a lengthy passage, where we obtained salt. Leaving the islands we had constant southerly winds and much unpleas ant weather until near the equator, which I think we crossed on fhe twentieth of September, with the sun vertical. We 38 The Old Sailor's Story. had adverse winds and heavy weather much of the time un til we had passed the mouth of the La Plata, when the weather became more mild, it being then past the middle of October. We sighted Cape Corrientes, and with a fresh north- erJy wind ran down the coast of Patagonia to St. Joseph's Peninsula and sent the boats in shore to explore. The boats returned, having seen only a few hair lions on the beaches. We proceeded south, anchored in St. Helena harbor, with the wind northeast, where the bottom is- hard and flinty, and went on shore but made no discovery of seals. The next day we left this harbor and went south, ex amining rocks and Islands, but found no seals. We stood in for Oven Bay, a narrow creek, where we found the schooner Union, Captain Clark, of Boston. We anchored in this harbor, which is snug and has ex cellent holding grounds. Leaving here we continued south, across St. George's Bay, with the wind from northwest, where the tides rise from twenty to thirty feet, and the current sets north and south at the rate of three or four miles an hour. We rounded Cape Blanco and went to Staten Land, where we arrived about November ist. This island is a long ridge of mountain peaks, thirty miles in length, with three good harbors, viz.: East harbor, West harbor, and Port Hatche. The practice of sealing this island is to leave the vessel in one of the harbors and work the beaches with the boats. The old Sailor's Story. 39 Our boats fitted out and fell in with a boat's crew left hefe by schooner Telegraph, of Bristol, and they proceeded to seal in conipan)-, but obtained but few .skins. In January we crossed the Straits of LeMar, which separate .Staten Land from Terra del Fuego, a dangerous passage on account of its heavy tide-rip, where Commodore Porter nearly foundered the frigate Essex. Captain Cutler, in the sloop Only Son, of Stonington, found him.self one day drifting into this dangerous rip in a calm. He closed his hatches and all places where water could find ingress, and leaving his dog on deck went below with his crew. The little craft came out of the peril, but the dog was missing and everything on deck that was not firmly secured ; and if a dog could not survive the peril how could a man ? On the third day from Staten Land we anchored in Wood harbor, a fine harbor in one of the numerous groups of the Terra del Fuego archipelago. The islands are high, rocky and well wooded, having a plentiful supply of the most refreshing water I ever tasted. Where the fresh water empties into the salt water a sort of oil rises to the surface. The inhabitants of this region are a degraded race, des titute of all civilization, easily intimidated, subsisting on fish and mussels, and spending much of their time in canoes made of bark, in which they carry a heap of sand, dirt and stones, on which they keep a fire constantly burning. This population inhabits a region of mountainous island- land which extends some four hundred miles on the South Atlantic and South Pacific coasts. They are as sadly in need 4o The Old Sailor's Story. of missionaries as any people on the face of this terrestrial ball, but the field would be neither lucrative nor self-sustaining. They express no desire to leave their country ; and two young fellows who aJDpeared to be eighteen or twenty years of age, who came on board our schooner one day, and who were baffled in their attiempts to find the monkeys which ap peared to them to lurk in the mirror when they stood before it, when made to think we sought their abduction, howled so piteously that we were glad to free them from our company. The number of these human beings, who fare worse than the brutes of most parts of the world, is hundreds and perhaps thousands. A mission was once started for their benefit, under the auspices of the English EjDiscopalians, but the missionaries, unable to procure supplies needful to life and health, sickened and died, for aught I know of starvation. On one of the Diego Islands I lost a valuable boy named B. F. Hussey. He went with the mate and myself on tea steep, rocky island to procure fowl, while the bodt's crew laid off at a short distance waiting for us. The last I saw of him he was on a pinnacle of rock waving a wounded bird. Proba bly the rock on which he stood crumbled with his weight, and he fell into the water and was killed or severely stunned by the fall. He was a Sandwich Islander by birth and an adept at diving and swimming, but he suddenly disappeared, and although we searched diligently for his body we did not succeed in finding it.. We examined the rocks and islands in this region, The Old Sailors Story. \\ called by Captain Cook, Desolation coast, and occasionally found a few seal. We generally anchored at night, for the bays, coves, and islands in this region form many excellent harbors, and cruising in the night is perilous, on account of sudden squalls, which are of frequent occurrence and by no means pleasant. We procured some provisions in Gregory's Bay, Straits of Magellan, of the Patagonian Indians, a gigantic race, far superior in size and strength to the natives of Terra del Fuego. These Indians have a very hardy breed of horses that will stand much fatigue ; and after taking a party of them on board, among whom was a native queen, and feast ing them on rice and molasses, of which they were very fond, they agreed to furnish ns with deer meat, and they kept their word, bartering this luscious commodity for red woolen shirts. After replenishing our stock of provisions, we prjoceeded from the Straits of Magellan in May, A. D. 1833, for the Falkland Islands. We found plenty of wild geese on these islands and easily procured, by shooting, all the goose flesh we wanted. We obtained but few seal-skins, and what we had we shipped home in the schooner Sun, Captain Trott. Then we went to work to get more ; and as time wore away and the sealing season came on, we succeeded in getting a fair cargo. We visited the South Shetlands, whose summits, tow ering high, are always covered with snow. We had some op position, for several vessels were sealing in the.se regions. Sometimes we consorted with one or more vessels and 42 The Old Sailor's Story. worked together for a time ; sometimes we left a boat's crew with camping utensils and provisions to seal aome inhospit able, barren or uninhabited island, while we continued search elsewhere ; sometimes we remained in a harbor for several days at a time ; again we were busy in procuring fuel, water and game ; and so the^days, weeks and months passed away, and on March 9th, A. D. 1834, we were home ward bound. We called at Pernambuco for fruits and vegetables. We crossed the equator about the middle of April and arrived home early in May, having a speedy, safe passage. I found my family well, and the voyage was profitable, for seal-skins brought a high price. Thus ends a tedious twenty-two months' voyage. On the twenty-eighth of July I sailed on another voy age in the schooner Betsey, of New London, with a comple ment of twenty-one men, bound on a sealing and whaling voyage. We stopped at the Cape De Verde's for salt, and found that the people had been preserved from famine by the provi dential supply of large numbers of small fish. Their crops failed, and had tt not been for this miracur lous supply of food the common people would have been without sustenance. The same Divine Power that sent food by the ravens to the prophet Elijah sent fish to these islanders, and have we not witnessed the workings of the same power in this coun try 1 For when wood was getting scarce very rapidly, be hold the discovery ;*ed utilizing of our immense coal niines ; The Old Sailor's Story. 43 and when whales were few and far between, then bubbles and spouts from mother earth a seemingly inexhaustible sup ply of petroleum. These islands belong to Portugal and are inhabited by a mixed race, of Portuguese and African descent or consent. Governor Martinez and his family were the only full-blooded Portuguese which I saw on these islands and some of his sons had a decidedly Haniish appearance. He was quite extensively engaged in the sajt trade» owning several vessels ; one of them was the old brig Boxer, taken by the Enterprise in the war of 181 2. And these ves sels conveyed cargoes of salt to Portugal and Brazil. While we were here the brig Tampico, Captain Holmes, of Mystic, arrived, and after procuring a sufficient quantity of salt, we sailed in company with her, she being bound on the same errand as ourselves, for the southwest coast of Africa. We crossed the equator about the middle of Sep tember, and after sighting the island of Ascension, an unu sual occurrence on this passage, we took the southeast trade winds, which blew remarkably strong, causing us to make rapid headway^ and we arrived on the coast in the vicinity of Whale's Bay, after a passage of sixty-five days, on or about October 5th, A. D. 1834. We stopped at Elizabeth Bay, where we procured a supply of birds and eggs, and pro ceeded to Angra Pequena Bay, the best harbor on the whole coast, to which I have formerly alluded in this ^^ ork. Here we landed surplus provisions, shooks, etc., and sent down yards and prejaared for cruising generally. 44 The Old Sailor s Story. On the third or fourth day we started northward, ex amining rocks and islands on our v^?ay with little success. We proceeded to Ichabo Island where we found plenty of eggs, and crawfish, a sort of lobster with no large claws. We went to Mercury Island, thence to Bird Island, seventy miles further, the farthest off-shore island on this part of the coast, where the anchorage is bad on account of rocky bot tom, and the surf oftentimes renders landing difficult and dangerous. Here we procured a few seal; thfen skirted the coast back to Angra, where we set up cask and made gener al preparations for both whaling and sealing. The usual time of the seals coniing on shore is from the tenth to the twenty-fifth of November, where they re main, if undisturbed, several months, or until the young, which are ushered into existence soon after the landing, are able to take care of themselves. They generally shed their coats of hair in February, and the pups become silver-gray and pass as yearlings at about eight months of age. During the season which now followed we found the seal scarce and shy, but by diligence we managed to secure some eight hundred skins, which was a slim season's work, as we had the whole coast to ourselves. Some time in February the ship Bingham, of New Lon don, Captain James Srnith, arrived in our vicinity seeking for whales ; and the brig Tampico, previously mentioned, also arrived, with whom we consorted for a time, as there was but little chance of success with any fopposition. As we were likely to become short of wafer I left two The Old Sailor s Story. 45 boat's crews in charge of my second and third mates to seal in company with the Tampico, while I prepared to beat to Cape Town, a distance of six hundred miles, with the wind dead ahead. What do you think, my city friend, with water faucets at every crook and turn, of having to sail so far, with a head wind, to get something to drink ? Some of the men whom I was about to leave grumbled and desired to go in the ship, their object being to desert ; but I leit them, ordering the mates to stop their allowance if they rebelled, and promising theni a jollification in case of good behavior on my return. We made the trip to Cape Town where we procured water, fruits and vegetables, and on our return found affairs all straight. We landed our water on Penguin Island where we found the brig Roscoe, of New Bedford, waiting for whale to only just make their appearance. The Tampico, being a short distance to the northward, arrived two days after ; and the ships Commodore Perry, Captain Hobron ; yEronaut, Captain Mallory ; Atlas, Cap tain Fuller ; and the Bingham, Captain Smith, soon after came in. It was now about June ist, A. D. 1835, and we con sorted for a while with the Bingham, exchanging our first mates with their boat's crews, and cruised up and down the coast seeking whales and finding none. After a month and a half, during which time the Bingham secured one whale and we one less, we concluded whaling was rather slim ; so I started on a crui.se to the southward, doubled the Cape of Good Hope and landed on Dyer's Island, where we pro- 46 The Old Sailor's Story. cured seven hundred prime seal-skins, which somewhat re vived our drooping spirits. We returned to Angra, having procured wood at Cape Voltas on our way, and found the Tampico absent on a cruise to the northward, and a Boston sealing schooner, Captain Clark, in the harbor. It was September, and as no seal were to be taken, we overhauled and painted the brig, waiting for the seal to come up, occasionally examining the rocks but with little suc cess. The seal having been harxassed so much the prospect was slim for the next season ; but by putting men on the small rocks to shoot them, and by great diligence, we man aged to secure about a thousand skins to both vessels, which was a slim season's work. After visiting St. Helena Bay, in Cape Colony, we skirted along the coast to Walwich Bay, procured a bullock of the natives, also a few ostrich feathers and empty egg shells, and proceeded on to Tiger Peninsula, in latitude four teen degrees south, but finding nothing we bore away for St. Helena in January, A. D. 1836. We arrived there in about eight days after leaving the coast, where I found William Carroll, Esq., American consul, in good health ; and after procuring water and disposing of surplus provisions, took our departure from this noted island for home about the twentieth of January, and arrived safely at New London early in March. The sealing business had ceased to be remunerative, on account of a decline in the price of furs, so Mr. Lawrence The Old Sailor's Story. 47 loaded the brig for the West Indies with horned cattle on deck, and I sailed in her for Martinico on the eighth of April. We sailed with the wind west-southwest, but it hauled to the south and increased to a gale and we had a pretty rough time for live stock. They kept sprawling and falling, and required constant care and management. After crossing the raging gulf we had a moderate pas sage to St. Pierre, Martinico, where we found no market for our cargo and were advised to go to Gaudaloupe, which we accordingly did. There we found a dull market, especially for cattle ; and as several vessels were waiting to procure cargoes of mo lasses, the article with which we wished to load, we had wearisome detention, but finally obtained a lading, and after a quick passage of eleven days arrived at New London on June 30th, A. D. 1836. Not wishing to go sealing again immediately, the owner, with my consent and according to my advice, sent the vessel to the coast of Chili, under command of Captain William Noyes. I stopped ashore until the latter part of August ; then made a trip to Norfolk after a cargo of corn, and in October purcha.sed an interest in the schooner Callao, and procured a freight in New York for Apalachicola, -where I arrived and discharged after a lengthy passage. I went from there to New Orleans in ballast ; and find ing freighting good, formed a line of packets, with two other vessels, between that port and Apalachicola. After making 48 The Old Sailor's Story. three good trips, which took me until January, A. D. 1837, the business became dull; and after lying idle and being sick with a fever for some time, I helped wreck a schooner near the mouth of the Mississippi, then procured a freight for Apalachicola, and from thence proceeded to New York and thence home. In June we had the vessel newly coppered, intending to have gone to the Azores for a cargo of potatoes and onions, but failing in this, laid by until October, and then took a freight from Hartford to Savannah. There we loaded, partly on the vessel's account, for Mobile, and thence we proceeded to New Orleans, where we loaded with bale-rope and bag ging for Savannah, arriving at the latter port on January ist, A. D. 1838. Here we loaded with lumber for Havana, and leaving Tybee February ist, in the evening, arrived at our destina tion February 4th, in the morning ; and after unloading we took a cargo of coffee, sugar and oranges to New Orleans. Thence we went to Apalachicola and obtained a freight of cotton for New Orleans, receiving one and one-quarter and one and one-eighth cents per pound freight foi under- deck and deck-load respectively. Back to Apalachicola with a load of sugar and again to New Orleans in ballast ; and from thence a freight for Bos ton, leaving the Balize about the first of July and arriving in Boston the 12th. Then we went home and laid by until October. My next move was to Bath, Me., for a cargo of pota toes, which, owing to a drouth, were scarce. After scouring The Old Sailor's Story. 49 about that section for two or three weeks, I procured part of a cargo and started for New London for orders. After pass ing through the Vineyard Sound I put Into Newport on ac count of a southeast gale and storm ; and as the wind shifted suddenly to the westward and blew hard I was detained there several days. I arrived at New London November ist; sailed the second for Charleston, where I found no market. Thence I had a rough passage to Key West where the market was equally dull. I stopped at Tampa Bay and at Apalachicola, and at both places found no sale ; and after taking them to New Orleans I was obliged to peddle them out in small quan tities. After getting through with the potatoes I went to the Atchafalaya River, and with much exertion obtained a cargo of sugar from different plantations for New Orleans. The navigation of this part of the country is intricate and difficult, the land being very low and marshy ; the shoals or oyster banks extend off shore, out of sight of land, and the river is very narrow and crooked. Arriving at Franklin, La., I took horse and rode to dif ferent plantations, being well received and hospitably enter tained by the gentlemanly planters, many of whom, with their slaves, had emigrated from Virginia and Kentucky, preferring to raise sugar-cane in this fertile region to the cultivation of corn on their soil-impoverished homesteads. Late one stormy day in January I called at the sugar plantation of a Mr. Wilkes, an old Virginia planter, who 50 The Old Sailor's Story. gave me an epitome of his history ; and as he was a very in telligent man his. conversation was highly entertaining. He predicted, at that early day, that the largest city in the world would eventually spring up on the Pacific side of this conti nent ; that there would be a ship canal across the Isthmus ; and that this future city would be a great commercial empo rium, a sort of central depot for the world.' Since the development of the resources of California and the rapid rise and growth of San Francisco, I have often thought of the old gentleman's prophecy on that stormy January evening. The next morning, after a sumptuous breakfast, my new-found friend accompanied me on horseback to several plantations ; and never In my life did I have more disinter ested kindness shown me by a stranger. My recollections of him are a bright spot In my memory. I also made the acquaintance of a Dr. Field, In Frank lin, who, with his wife, an accomplished New York lady, very hospitably entertained my wife, who accompanied me this winter, and rendered me kindly assistance in procuring cargo. After taking in different lots of sugar, we dropped down the river, near the mouth of which I purchased some corn from the slaves of two different plantations, (with their o-wn- er's consent, otherwise I should have been subject to impris onment), and we made our way to New Orleans, where we arrived about the twentieth of January. I found freights very dull ; but after getting what I could and purchasing considerable on the ve-ssel's acco-unt, I dropped down the river on March ist, and was very un- , The Old Sailors Story. 51 fortunate, for on the evening of that day our vessel was run down and sunk by a tow-boat with a heavy tow, called the Tiger. The pilot of the tug, mistaking our light for a shore light, put his wheel the wrong way, and the result was a col lision, which caused our vessel, with a cargo valued at Up wards of twelve thousand dollars, to sink In less time than It takes to write an account of the occurrence. The captain of the tug was a northern man arid a gentleman, so casting off his tow he hitched on to the sunken craft and succeeded In getting her near the shore, where he left her lying on one side. I took passage with him to New Orleans, where I pro cured the assistance of the schooner Rob Roy, Captain John W. Miner, of New London, with whom I proceeded to the wreck ; and with his and other assistance we hauled out the cargo, much of which was badly damaged. The schooner was thtin floated, and both she and the cargo were sold at auction In New Orleans, the former to Bailey & Marcy, shipwrights, who afterwards repaired and used her to good advantage. Being now, as jack says, adrift, but having some funds, I made an agreement with Captain Miner for a passage north ; and a part freight offering for Savannah I made him out the balance, and after discharging and loading at that port we took a load of yellow pine to New London, where we arrived In June, A. D. 1839. Having been unfortunate I concluded to try my fortune on the land, so I purchased a farm of sixty acres, with a 52 The Old Sailor's Story. saw and grist-mill thereon, in the town of Salem, Ct., and moved there from Gales Ferry in October. I put the mills in repair and ground and sawed, working nights some of the time as well as by day ; but farming and milling interfered with each other, and the repairs on the rhills were as destructive to the profits as Pharaoh's lean kine were to the well-favored ones, and it was a hard matter at the end of a year to make both ends meet, which was quite discouraging. Another drawback to my succe.ss was a depreciation in the price of stock and produce. When I purchased my farm grain was worth seven shillings per bushel, and in one year's tirhe it could be bought for four shillings, and other pro ducts fell off in value In proportion. This was another " up and down " in my experience, by no means profitable to me. After nearly three years' hard toiling, with aforemen tioned results, I was offered a chance to go to sea on a whaling and sea-elephanting voyage to the Crozette Islands, Indian Ocean ; and accepting the offer I sailed for the firm of Perkins & Smith, In the schooner Franklin, on August 1 2th, A. D. 1842. We had a lengthy passage to the Cape De Verde's, where we stopped for salt ; then made our way to the Tris- tine Islands, and stood in under Nightingale Island October 26th, and giving the mate orders to keep as near shore as was prudent, I took the second mate and boat's crew and went In-shore to prospect. Discovering some fur seal in a cave at the north end of the island, I made preparations to land, but looking to the The Old Sailor's Story. 53 ¦westward I saw a tremendous squall coming up from that quarter and we hastened for the schooner. The squall struck her with great force, laying her near ly on her beam-ends before the sails could be taken in ; but fortunately for us the shifting of the wind brought her di rectly to the leeward of us, otherwise we could not possibly have boarded her. With much difficulty we got alongside and hoisted in our boat, and putting the vessel under very short sail we laid to till night, heading to the southwest. The weather moderating and clearing a little I con cluded to abandon this land ; and we bore away with a stiff, fair gale and a boisterous sea for the Prince Edward Is lands, a distance of nearly three thousand miles, where we arrived November i8th. A brief description of this far off ocean land may not be amiss. The south of Marion's Island lies In latitude forty-six degrees fifty minutes south and longitude thirty-seven de grees forty-six minutes east. It is of a triangular, shape and has a coast line of about fifty miles. Running through the centre, in a southeasterly direction from the north part, is a ridge of high mountains whose peaks are thousands of feet in height, covered with perpetual snow. The margins and sides of these mountains are com posed of volcanic cinders called clampers, the walking upon which will thoroughly demoralize a new pair of boots in one day's time. In some places this island can be approached 54 The Old Sailor's Story. within a short distance, in other places dangerous reefs ex tend offshore. In several places are strips of -beaches which are more or less frequented by sea-elephant ; in other places large masses of irregular shaped rocks renders walking along the shore impossible. There is one poor harbor, called Uxor, on account of a vessel by that name having been wrecked there by dragging ashore. The North Island is considerably smaller, and the best anchorage is in a small bay or roadstead at the extreme southeast point. Here we found the holding ground good and rode out several severe gales in safety. The land of both islands is similar. Probably both are of volcanic ori gin, and they are a sterile, desolate region, unfitted for the abode of humanity. Here we found the schooner Emme- line, of Mystic, on the same errand as ourselves, and we anchored near her. It being, late in the season the elephants were poor, yield ing only a few gallons apiece. We consorted with the Emmeline and worked the beaches together. We also found a gang of men here from the Cape of Good Hope taking oil for a schooner which they expected at a stated time. W^e worked the beaches of both islands and obtained about one hundred and seventy-five barrels of oil, and left on the seventh of January, A. D. 1S43, fo"" t^s Crozette Islands. This group is about five hundred miles further east, and it took us about a week to get there, find an anchorage and get to work — both vessels still in company. The Old Sailor s Story. 55 We anchored in American Bay, Possession Island, and found the elephant plenty. The men worked along the beaches killing and skin ning the animals ; and we boated off the blubber as circum stances permitted ; much of the time being so stormy as to prevent communication between the vessel and the shore. On heaving up our anchor on the third of February, the chain choked in the hawse-pipe ; and on ascertaining the cause found the key to the shackle-pin had worked out and the pin had partly worked out of the link. In this condition we had been riding, with a heavy sea rolling in and heavy breakers but a few fathoms astern. The Emmellne's chain was In a similar condition ; the shackle came around the windlass and the pin dropped out on deck. Had our chains completely unshackled we should have lost not only our vessels but our lives. I would caution all who use chain cables In dangerous places never to trust to iron keys for shackle-pins. However rusty and hard to start, they are liable to work loose ; while white oak keys will swell and grow tighter instead of looser, and they are easily bored out when it is necessary to unshackle the chain. In the following year I knew of sixty vessels which un shackled their chains by trusting to iron keys while riding at the island of Ichabo, off the southwest coast of Africa. The sea-elephant, like the seal, come on shore for breed ing, and when they first land their blubber or fat, which lies next to the skin, is thick and oily, but they grow poorer rap idly. The females stay on shore with their young until the 56 The Old Sailor s Story. latter are able to take to the water. They then go off shore and feed until shedding time, or brown cow season, when they are fat again. Some of the males when they first land will yield from three to five barrels of oil. On the seventeenth of February we went over to East Island, and In one day got off blubber enough for fifty barrels of oil, although the weather was very blowy. Leaving men on shore at different places to work the beaches, we laid off and on or anchored at times, as circum stances permitted, improving the time to such advantage as wind and weather permitted. One night my mate and I had a similar dream. We dreamed of seeing a span of black horses rearing furiously and standing on their hind feet. This was an evil omen, for the next day the second mate's boat, in attempting to com municate with the shore, was stoven by the combers and three of my best men, vl^.: Joseph Durfey, Richard Cad- well and Ernest Hanz, found a watery grave. We had a continual succession of squalls and gales from this time until the twenty-first of March, when, having taken our men on bokrd, and having also procured a supply of fresh water, we took our departure for some inhabitable land. I will relate here one circumstance, to give an idea of the pleasures of sea-elephanting at the Prince Edward Islands. , Having been informed that there were some fur seal on a certain beach on the side of the island opposite to where The Old Sailor's Story. 57 we were ; and as there was no anchorage there for our ves sels, and as going around and landing In boats was both dif ficult and dangerous ; the captain and mate of the Emme line, together with my mate, six men and myself, formed a party to go across lots, which proved no easy task. We pro vided ourselves with penguin-skin moccasins, as boots were too cumbersome and would soon cut through, and started early one morning. First, we waded through the fussock-bogs, then clam bered up the sides of the mountain, over the loose, rough clampers, to an altitude of three or four thousand feet, where the snow capped the summit, and down the other side, which was much steeper and equally jagged and uneven. The man who acted as guide made a mistake In his reckoning, and no wonder, for It snowed and blowed like fury let loo.se ; and behold, when we descended we were about one-half of a mile from our beach, and no way had we of getting to it but by ascending and descending in another gulch, for the mountain-wall between us and our Intended landing place was perpendicular and impassable. Up we clambered to the very top, where the wind blew a tornado, and down we scrambled nearly half way when the guide dis covered he was again on the wrong track. Up we went again, and being fatigued I asked the guide if bethought he could find this spot again when he returned. He replied in the affirmative, so I stuck the breech of my trusty fowling- piece in the snow crust, and for aught I know It remains there till this day, for when we did return we encountered 58 The Old Sailor's Story. another tornado and were glad to get back in any way we could. The third time we reached the desired beach, where we camped for the night? in a dismal den or cave, through the fissures of which water was constantly dripping. Three of our men, disgusted with the guide, were separated from our company and camped all night in the open air, and these men had the bread which we needed for provision. But although we were tired and foot-sore we secured a cea-elephant; and making a fire of his blubber and some sticks which we carried for staffs, we fried his liver in an old broken- camp-kettle which we found in the cave; and after boiling some sea-water for salt with which to season it, we ate it with better relish than many have for better viands. In two days' time we obtained sixteen seal-skins, and made our way back to our vessels, which we were veiy glad to reach. Another Incident on this voyage was our dragging" off soundings in a heavy gale with a long scope of chain out. With our ordinary windlass It was impossible to heave in a single link ; and thus we drifted and pitched the whole night, , the chain surging heavily In the hawse-pipe and jarring everything from truck to keelson. It took us the whole of the next day, with falls and tackles, to heave up the anchor^ it being a very fatiguing and labo-rious job, especially in a gale of wind with a heavy sea. On March 21st, A. D. 1843, ^^ left the Crozettes; on April 13th we doubled the Cape of Good Hope; on the The Old Sailor's Story. 59 15th we andiored in Saldana Bay to obtain water, and here three of our crew deserted. Having obtained water, wood, fresh meat and vegeta bles, we left the African coast and crossing the South At lantic arrived in the safe and commodious harbor of Rio Janerio on May 26th. Here I disposed of our four hundred and fifty baiTels of oil at twenty-nine cents per gallon, and invested the funds in three hundred and fifty bags of excel lent coffee, which I shipped home, where it found a good market and brought the oil up to fifty cents a gallon. Having refitted with second-hand casks and stores for another season's cruise, we left port on the ninth of June ; and after wooding and watering at Isle Le Grande, we left the South American coast on June i6th, A. D. 1843. For a description of Brazil, its vast resources and valua ble productions, animal, vegetable and mineral, I would re fer the reader to more able writers, and will only speak of the poor slaves, who toiled early and late, as being poorly fed, hard-worked and scantily clad. We made the land on the southwest coast of Africa, in the vicinity of Whale's Bay, on the twenty-third of July, halving seen three sperm whales on the passage which we were unable to procure. From this time until August 4th we cruised along the coast searching for whales/ and seals ; finding none of the former and but few of the latter. On landing at the latter date on Ichabo or Round Island, I was surprised at finding planks, wheel-barrows. 6o '[he Old Sailor s Story. pick-axes and bags of guano, apparently left without cer emony. I afterwards learned that the brig Ann, of Bristol, ha,d been here for the purpose of obtaining this fertilizer. She had been sent here by a merchant of Bristol ; but being unacquainted with this part of the coast, and poorly provided with ground tackle, the captain, having parted his chains, was obliged to put to sea, leaving his implements in the manner in which I found them. He went to St. Helena for the purpose of obtaining anchors, thinking he would return and finish loading ; but changing his mind he proceeded to England with part of a cargo, and there gave information respecting the great amount of this valuable commodity. When I touched here on my way home from the Cro zettes, in the February following, I found eighty ships and brigs loading at this island for the English market. We proceeded to the Crozettes; had much squally and blowy weather ; but we found the elephant plenty and suc ceeded, in obtaining a full cargo of oil, filling up every cask ; and after touching at Cape Colony for supplies, I proceeded down the coast, where I found the guano fleet before men tioned, from which I obtained information In relation to the value of the article and mentally resolved to make a voyage here after having finished the one in which I was engaged. Leaving Africa I proceeded to St. Helena, where I found the ship Columbia, Captain James Smith, and his tender the sloop Shaw Perkins, Captain Stroud, both ves sels loaded with sea-elephant oil frcm Desolation Island. On the following day a party of us took horse and went The Old Sailor's Story. 6i up the mountain to Longwood, and visited the last earthly dwelling place of the great Napoleon. Here he was incar cerated as a prisoner of war ; here he lived for nearly six years, and here he died and was buried. For nineteen years his remains were entombed on this lonely island ; and on this account St. Helena will occupy a prominent mention in the world's history until the end of time. We sailed for home in company with the vessels last mentioned, and kept together for a great part of the pas sage. We arrived in New London early in April, A. D. 1844, after a cruise of some twenty months, making a voyage which was profitable to the owners, paying the best per centage on her outfit of any voyage she had ever made. Having a mind to make a guano voyage, Mr. Elias Per kins, head of the firm, together with Captains James and B. F. Smith, went with me to Boston, where we bought a burthensome ship called the Brookline. '~ ^After some delay, I sailed from New London June 20th, j A. D. 1844, bound to the Island of Ichabo, on the southwest coast of Africa. My wife and little daughter, five years of age, accompanied me on this voyage. We had a quick pas sage of twenty days to the Cape De Verdes, where we touched for recruits ; then a continuation of head winds and calms to the equator, which we crossed in about longitude twenty-five degrees west. We arrived at our destination September toth, where, to my great surprise, I found a fleet of three hundred English ships, with a working force of two thousand men. 62 The Old Sailor's Story. The masters of these vessels had chosen a committee of twelve of their number for the regulation of affairs ; and at a meeting of this committee, with Sir John Marshall, of Her Britannic Majesty's navy, as chairman, it was voted that, as the island was occupied by British subjects, no for eign vessels should be allowed to load guano until all of the English vessels were loaded. I received a letter and a copy of this resolution from the committee, and immediately wrote to the American con sul at Cape Town, informing him of the state of affairs, and dispatched the same by a brig bound there for supplies. The brig had a quick passage, and Mr. Chase, the con sul, laid the matter before Lord Percy, high admiral on that station, who sent Instructions to the committee, dispatching a steamer called the Thunderbolt for that purpose, to let all foreign vessels load on the same terms, with the same rights and privileges as English vessels. Sir John Marshall was also recalled. This action was not only beneficial to me but also to the ship Shakespeare, of New York, and two French ships which the committee had refused to allow to load on any terms. This roadstead was completely filled with vessels, vary ing in capacity froni two hundred, to twelve hundred tons. When the heavy rollers came in the situation can be more easily imagined than described; bumping, thumping, dragging, pounding, chafing and breaking were the Inevitable results. ¦ Fourteen bowsprits were carried away at one time. One The Old Sailor s Story. 63 ship was totally dismasted and one sunk. I assisted in load ing one ship and obtained assistance in return. I succeeded in getting my cargo of six hundred tons and started for Bos ton in December. We ran down the coast some two hun dred and fifty miles to WalwicJ-i Bay, where we stopped to obtain fresh beef ; and after recruiting our larder we sailed from this place on my forty-fifth birthday, December 23d, A. D. 1844. We called at St. Helena for water and vegetables; crossed the equator in the'longitude of thirty degrees west, passing near St. Paul's rock; and after the usual routine of calms, tr^de-winds and variables, together with squalls, in one of which we blew away our jib, we made the highlands of Cape Cod on Washington's birthday, A. D. 1845; and crowding sail we were enabled to secure a Boston pilot as the shades of evening settled around us, and we anchored off Long Wharf at midnight after an eight months' cruise. After making arrangements for discharging the cargo; I proceeded, with my family, on the cars homeward, and when we passed through Worcester on March 4th, the Democrats were firing a hundred guns in honor of James K. Polk's in auguration. We stopped at Greeneville and Gales Fer ry, visiting relatives, and arrived at our home in Salem on March 12th. This was Wednesday, and on the following Monday I repaired to Boston with a crew to bring the ship around to New London, which we accomplished in about thirty hours after starting. About the middle of July I sailed for Perkins & Smith 64 The Old Sailor's Story. on a whaling voyage, in the ship Charles Henry, bound to the North Pacific via the Indian Ocean. John Kimball, Charles Smith, and Allyn Harris were my first, second and third mates. My wife and daughter accompanied me on this voyage for the benefit of their health, to which the own ers made no objection. We stopped at the Azores, where we obtained, potatoes; touched at the Cape De Verdes, wJiere we procured a lot of pigs, poultry and tropical fruits. It was customary for whalers to stop at these islands to obtain the articles named, and also to ship- young men on a lay represented by a frac tion whose denominator was much larger than Its numerator. We crossed the equator in the vicinity of the Brazilian coast; crossed the South Atlantic; proceeded to Prince Ed ward Islands, where we obtained some sea-elephant oil. Here we had the luck to drag off the bank with ninety fathoms of chain out, and every time the ship pitched it seemed almost as though she would be rent In twain ; but after great effort we succeeded in getting the anchor, having broken the hawse-pipe and incurred other damage in the at tempt. Think of a ship pitching and diving in a heavy sea, with a large anchor and ninety fathoms of heavy chain dangling from her bow. Description cannot make the situation intel ligible to a landsman, and no one can fully appreciate It who has not had similar experience. We captured a lone whale; went to the Crozettes, where by the terms of Insurance we were not permitted to anchor; communicated with a shqre gang; obtained eggs and fish, » » The Old Sailor s Slory. 65 and bore away for Desolation Island or Kergulen's Land. We arrived off the north end some time In January, A. D. 1846; and after getting moderate weather succeeded in get ting two whales, one of which proved a dry skin, not yield ing much oil. Having tempestuous weather much of the time we were unable to lower our boats with safety; and after killing two more whales, both of which sunk, we proceeded, with con stant gales from all quarters, to Van Dieman's Land or Tas mania, and we arrived at Hobart Town early In March, 1846. There we disposed of what oil we had taken at about thirty qents per gallon. As this place had been an English penal colony for many years, there was no lack of dissolute characters of both sexes; but English law Is rigid and offenders are often se verely punished, especially old offenders. To take away a convict was a heinous offence, punishable with fine, impris onment and confiscation. This land produces the finest grains, fruits and vege tables, the people are friendly and hospitable, and there is no finer country in the world for the abode of man. Many who were sent here as convicts had reformed, and by indus try had succeeded in obtaining good homes and becoming more or less wealthy. After disposing of our oil and recruiting on the produc tions of this land, we took a good supply of potatoes; and proceeding to New Zealand, about a thousand miles further, we rounded the South Cape and had the whole Pacific Ocean before us in which to cruise. We stopped at one of 66 The Ola Sailor's Story. the Society Islands, where we procured oranges, bananas and other tropical fruits. Here we learned of the injustice of the French, who had overawed this weak nation, compelling the queen ro cede those islands to France; an injustice which should never have been permitted by other nations. But they have b^en taught humility by the Franco-Prussian war, and the Empe ror William has been a school-master that France will long remember. We took our departure; made a straight line for the North Pacific; crossed the equator, and proceeded to the forty-sixth degree of north latitude. It was now the latter part of May, and we were on good whaling ground. Spoke ship Chandler Price, Captain Pease, who in formed me of the loss of the ship Columbia, belonging to our firm, on one of the King Mill group, with twenty-seven hundred barrels of oil. On the following day took a large whale which made over two hundred barrels. While cutting in, spoke the Isaac Hicks, Captain Rice, who observed he had been on the ground many days and had obtained less oil than our whale would make. One evening, after six o'clock, we fastened to three whales, two of which we saved but one sunk. Two days af ter we fastened to three more, but the iron drawed out from one— a common occurrence — the other two we secured. Whales being scarce we cruised and made the land of The Old Sailor's Story. 6 J Kamtschatka, and secured a whale which yielded one hun dred and sixty, barrels. We stood along to the latitude of fifty-four degrees north, where we found ships boiling out, and there we got another large whale. On the seventeenth of August we secured one more, and then we cruised up and down the coast without success. About the twentieth of September we put into St. Peter- Paulaski to procure wood, water and vegetables. This is a Russian outpost for the collection of valuable furs. The distance from St. Ptitersburgh overland, at that time, was a year's journey of some seven thousand miles; and the Rus sian officers" who were stationed here were relieved once in five years, others taking their places at the expiration of that time. I found here two American residents, who had taken na tive wives and reared large families. One of them named Talman had come to Canton with a Captain Mather, of New London, during the war of A. D. 1812, and taking French leave had come here In an English trader, and hav ing learned the native tongue he was useful as an -inter preter. Through him I became acquainted with the lieutenant- governor, who lived near, a very affable gentleman, whose wife was a fair German lady. We were invited to their residence and hospitably treated and entertained. The people here follow fishing in summer and hunting in winter. They belong to the Greek Church and are very zealous. 68 The Old Sailor s Story. They travel In winter by means of dog teams, with which the lieutenant-governor Infornied me he was obliged to make long journeys on government business connected with the fur trade. The dogs are chained up in summer along the sides of the brooks and have the appearance of being scantily fed. We procured wood and vegetables and proceeded south to a more genial climate, as it was now October and winter was fast approaching. We continued along Across l:he equa tor without seeing any sperm whales, which we were anxious to find. We finally captured three in the vicinity of the Navigator Islands; and as the ship was .somewhat leaky I concluded to put into some port and stop the leak. So I put into a fine lagoon with a heathenish name, where I found an English missionary station, under the charge of a Mr. Murray. Although missionary work is by many lightly spoken of a striking example of its good was here plainly seen. When the missionaries first came here theywere landed under the protection of an English man-of-war. The natives were of the wildest and most savage kind; now scores and hundreds were engaged In learning and practicing the great truths of the word of life. While here I witnessed the dedication of a new house. The friends and relatives of the family assembled, and after prayer and singing a feast of good things followed. Their method of cooking is somewhat peculiar. They dig a hole some two or three feet deep in the ground, into which they place a quantity of small sized stones. Having The Old Sailor s Story. 69 heated these stones very hot by building a fire on them, they wrap the pigs or fowls which they wish to cook in a kind of large leaves called tarra-leaves, and place them on the heated stones. Closing the mouth of the excavation with earth to retain the heat; when a sufficient time has elapsed they produce the most nicely roasted and finely fla vored meat which I ever tasted. The flavor is owing part ly to the stuffing, which consists largely of bread-fruit and' cocoa-nut milk. We were kindly treated, and having obtained food, fuel and water, we proceeded to the Friendly Isles, so named by Captain Cook, on our way to which we obtained a forty bar rel sperm-whale. We went into an excellent harbor called Vavou, where by careening the ship we succeeded In stop ping the leak. Here we also found a missionary station In a very flour ishing condition, and an abundance of pigs, poultry, yams and sweet potatoes, of which we obtained a good supply. The missionaries, Messrs. Turner and West, invited us" to their houses and treated us very hospitably and kindly. Here was a church capable of holding five thousand peo ple, in the building of which the sound of the hammer was not heard. The roof was thatched; the rafters were of bam boo; the sides and flooring were curiously constructed mats; and the lashings or fastenings were made of grass. Every particle of the wood-work was concealed by braided or woven work of fibrous material, and the edifice was a 'monument of native industry and ingenuity. 1 We were here at the time o^ the annual examination pf 70 The Old Sailor's Story. the different schools; and the exercises, which were of no mean order, were conducted with the utmost propriety and decorum. Some five hundred canoes, capable of holding from seventy to eighty persons apiece, arrived while we were here; in fact the whole population seemed desirous to wit ness and participate in these anniversary exercises. The native king or governor invited us to his house; treated us to water-melons; and entertained us with an Intel ligent ease and refinement which many of the prominent men of the Caucasian race would do well to Imitate. I never had a more pleasant stay at any port. The climate was genial; the people friendly; the fare was excellent; and the welkin rang with the melody of spiritual songs, and the sounds of praise were, heard in every nook and corner of this happy little town. On leaving this place on the twenty-third of December, A. D. 1846, my forty-seventh blrthda}', we proceeded to wards Cape Horn, which we doubled in January, taking one whale on the passage, which owing to boisterous weather we were unable to finish cutting in, and lost him when he was only partially stripped of his blubber. Being short of wood I put into Wood harbor In the night, which my previous knowledge of this part of the world enabled me to do; and next morning my officers were greatly surprised at finding themselves in a good harbor, completely land-locked, where good wood and water were to be had by the taking. * This part of the coast should be better understood by those. who double the cape, as it abounds in excellent har- The Old Sailor s Story. 71 bors, where ships in stress of weather might have safe re treat from the angry elements. From here we proceeded to Falkland Islands for beef; and arrived there on .their Sat urday and our Sunday, as we had gained a day by going around the world. And so we knocked about, in and out, off and on, until June 20th, 1847, when, having filled up, we started for home. But the old Charles Henry never reached New London. On the tenth of August, after the usual pleasures and vicissitudes of a long ocean passage, we sighted Long Island. The weather became moderate and foggy, and guided by soundings we proceeded to feel our way along the shore. Leaving the ship to my mate, with directions not to get in nearer than fifteen fathoms, I lopped down "all a stand ing," and contrary to my expectations fell soundly asleep. The mate, wishing to be extra smart and being In a hurry to get home, disregarded my orders, and supposing himself past Montauk undertook to haul up for the " Race," and the consequence was the ship was cast away on the south side of Long Island, a few miles to the west of its eastern ex tremity. After sailing around the world, and cruising among coral reefs and' rocky Islands, weathering gales and surviving the perils of different oceans, lands and climes of both hemis pheres, having obtained a full ship, and almost arrived at • home, to be cast away in moderate weather by carelessness on the part of one who should have been more cautious was, to say the least, very annoying to my feelings. But the ship was insured and the cargo was saved; and while It was being 72 The Old Sailor's Story. discharged the price of oil advanced several cents on a gal lon, so the owners lost nothing by the transaction; and the voyage, barring the disgrace of losing the old box, was a suc cessful one. We were cast away in front of an ancient house; and while we were getting the oil and appurtenances of the wreck on shore I took board In the said hoiise, the landlady of which appeared to be one of the most avaricious speci mens of feminine humanity which I have ever met. Some of the beach-combers had buried a tierce of sperm oil In the sand, and when her little serving maid informed me of the fact she scolded her severely and threatened her with severe punishment if she committed a like offence. The underwriters hired the farmers in the vicinity to transport the oil and effects of the ship across the beach, about a mile, to Napeag Bay, whence it was conveyed in sloops to New London. The man who had rented my place had died during my absence, and the mills were somewhat out of tune; but I fixed them up and, putting them in charge of my oldest son, I started, In November of the same year, on a guano voyage to the coa.st of Patagonia, in a ship called the Palladium. X After stopping at the Cape De Verdes, I de-vIated from the usual course and Instead of making a southeast track to the fifteenth degree of west longrtude, I set all sail and cteered south-southwest, crossed the equator near St. Paul's rock, and by this means I shortened my passage several days. I arrived on the coast of Patagonia in January; found a The Old Sailor s Story. 73 guano Island near Watchman's Cape, in the latitude of forty- eight degrees south, where was a man named Henry Powell, who had been wrecked on this coast two years previous to this time. Being a man of enterprise he had taken posses sion of the island, obtained a working force from Monte video, and was engaged In digging and curing the com modity for the loading of vessels. By making arrangements with him I was enabled to ob tain a cargo of excellent quality. It had to be dug, spread, dried, bagged and boated to the ship, which was anchored at some distance from the shore. At one time my ship broke adrift in a heavy gale while I was on shore at work, and when It blows In this region there Is no half-way work about it. I felt no little anxiety for her safety, but in course of time she made her appearance; and after more or less mis haps and vicissitudes, occasioned by the severity of the winds, etc., we succeeded In getting loaded, and leaving in March, arrived, after a quick passage of forty-six days, in New Lon don, on or about the tenth of May, A. D. 1848. The owners, finding a good market for the cargo, wished me to make another voyage to the same place; and as the inducements were tempting I consented to go, and sailed with the same ship and nearly the same crew in July, A. D. 1848. We stopped at the Cape De Verdes for recruits, and leaving the ship in charge of my mate I went on shore to trade. The sea was heaving in and it was calm under the lea of. the island. The mate became Intoxicated, and in stead of keeping far enough to have a working breeze, he 74 The Old Sailor's Story. neglected his duty, allowed her to drift into the calm space under the high land, and the consequence was we had to an chor to prevent drifting ashore, and had a full weeks' de tention. After leaving these islands we had a succession of southerly winds and a lengthy passage, but we arrived at our destination in October; and being well provided with chains, anchors and boats, I succeeded in getting loaded on the twentieth of December; and after more boisterous weather than was comfortable or desirable, we made the Vir ginia coast in February, and after several more days of disa greeable wintrj/^ weather and gales of wind, we arrived in New London in March, A. D. 1849, after an eight months' voyage. At this date the California gold fever was raging, and the Palladium changed owners in part and was sent to San Francisco in charge of Captain McLane, who took his family with him and sought his fortune in that El Dorado; but alas ! for his human hopes, he made bad investments and had reverses, which so wrought on his physical organization that he soon went the way of all the earth. I purchased his interest in the bark Iris, and sailed in her on a guano voyage on the twelfth of November. I found the stock pretty well exhausted, but succeeded in procuring an Inferior cargo and sailed for home in March, A. D. 1850, and arrived at home about the middle of May. This cargo meeting with ready sale the owners wished me to try another voyage, and I again sailed for Patagonia on September 23d, 1850. I found that my friend Powell had The Old Sailor's Story. 75 changed his quarters to Sea Bear Bay, and thither I re paired, where I had to boat my cargo a distance of four miles. While loading, in company with other vessels, I made an excursion, in a schooner belonging to Mr. Powell, to the Falkland Islands for the purpose of obtaining fresh beef At this time two large ships laden with coal, from Penn sylvania bound to San Francisco, in this vicinity took fire by the combustion of the coal, caused by the violent rolling and shaking of the vessels, and one, the Nonantum, was abandoned and never heard from. The other, called the Waldram, was taken Into Port Stanley, where, after being scuttled to extinguish the fire, she was sold on the under writers' account at about one-tenth of her original value. We got about fifteen beeves, which we carried to the coast, which was a cause of rejoicing to the one hundred and fifty men there employed. After completing my cargo I proceeded homeward; and after an ordinary, passage, so similar to others that I pass it over without note, arrived in New London in May, A. D. 1857- Messrs. Perkins & Smith wished me to prosecute a whaling and sealing voyage In their employment; and having no suitable vessel they contracted for the building of a clip per bark of three hundred tons, in which I took an interest, and she was christened the N. S. Perkins, In honor of the late Dr. Perkins, of New London. I sailed In her September 23d, A. D. 1852, with a com plement of officers and a crew of twenty-one men and boat- steerers, for the Indian and North Pacific Oceans, and my 76 The Old Sailor s Story, wife and Mrs. Pinkham, the wife of my mate, bore us com pany. After getting fairly started we found that our new ves sel was a' very fast sailer ; she could easily beat the pilot- boat which accompanied us out to Montauk. She was not only very fast but also the wettest craft of her size in which I ever sailed; but in pleasant weather she would skim along like a bird. We made a quick passage of twenty-one days to the Cape De Verdes, where we made a call to obtain such arti cles as these poor Islanders have to dispose of, such as pigs, goats and poultry, which they willingly barter for cheap clothes and tobacco. On the eighteenth of October we bore away for more distant parts; on the twenty-third spoke the bark Dolphin, from New York for Australia, with mining emigrants; on the thirtieth we had crossed the equator; on the third of No vember spoke an English bark, from Liverpool for. Calcutta; on the fifteenth made the Tristine Islands; on the seven teenth sent the boats in shore and caught some fish; on the eighteenth, with a strong breeze, let her slide for the Indian Ocean. On the twenty-first of November we had crossed the meridian of Greenwich; on the third of December made the Prince Edward group, where we tarried some days and suc ceeded in obtaining a small quantity of sea-elephant oil. But ¦'' ' ^¦^> the prospect was slim, the animals were scarce and poor, and -i we bore away for other grounds. On January loth, A. D. 1853, we spoke the ship Prince The Old Sailor's Story. J 7 of Wales, from Aberdeen for Adelaide, from whom I ob tained the correct longitude, my chronometer being faulty, having stopped twice in winding. On the eighteenth we made the extraordinary run of three hundred and thirty-six miles; on the twentieth we had thick fog, with the wind northwest; and this foggy spell con tinued some four or five days, and as we were In the vicinity of New Zealand, our situation was not the most pleasant, for our precise location was not known, and we had a calm, foggy time, with a heavy swell, which is much worse than a gale of wind in clear weather and plenty of sea-room. On the twenty-seventh we crossed the opposite me ridian of Greenwich; on the twenty-eighth raised sperm- whale and lowered for them, but they went so fast we could not fasten to them. So we continued on our course to the eastward. On the twenty-ninth we raised spouts which proved to be killers. After this, till February 20th, we experienced a succession of baffling, variable winds, with occasional squalls and showers of rain, and as we had a heavy, rolling sea, we nearly wore out a suit of sails. On the twenty-second we made Saunders Island, one of the Society group, and spoke the ship Alexander, from Hono lulu, of and for New London. On the twenty-third we raised sperm whales and took one, cut him in and proceeded. On the twenty-fifth a boat with natives came off solicit ing trade. On the fourth of March crossed the equator in longi- 78 The Old Sailor s Story. tude one hundred and fifty-three degrees fifteen minutes -west. On the fifteenth made Owyhee, one of the Sandwich Islands. On the eighteenth, at seven bells in the morning, while at breakfast, we wefe struck by a combing sea, which filled the decks to the top of the rails, and rushed with great force into the cabin, nearly drowning us out. ^ On the nineteenth by our own time and the eighteenth by the shore time, we crossed the bar, with the assistance of a pilot, and hauled alongside of the go-vernment wharf , at Honolulu. Here we landed oil, shooks, and surplus provisions, and taking in salt and fresh water we remained until April 4th. Then we left, and after obtaining wood and vegetables at Attowy we proceeded on our way to the Japan- Sea. On the fifteenth we crossed the one hundred and eightieth meridian in latitude eighteen degrees forty-five minutes north. On the twenty-fifth we made the Ladrone Islands. We sent in our boats and obtained cocoa-nuts and bananas. On the eighth of May we made Long Island of the Liu Kiu group. We saw two Japanese junks and found an island in our track not laid down on the chart. These islands are very compact, with numerous small straits between them. On the ninth we passed three rocks, called the ass' ears, which resemble such ears in shape. And so we proceeded northerly, seeing occasionally fish ing boats, which appeared to be shy of us. On the four- The Old Sailor s Story. 79 teenth saw hump-backed whales. Lowered and chased, but could not fasten, and also made the island of Corea. On the sixteenth we were through the straits of Corea and in the sea of Japan. And then we proceeded north, looking for whales in the day and lying to at night. When this sea was first visited by whalers. In A. D. 1845, it was literally alive with them; but a large fleet pursuing soon broke up the shoals and made the remnant difficult to approach. On the seventeenth of June we entered the Ochotsk Sea by the straits of La Perouse. We cruised to the north; encountered ice; laid off and on; had much disagreeable weather, but we found a seal- island and went to work with a will, and on the nineteenth of July we had taken eight thousand skins and wet most of our salt. These skins -v^e conveyed to Honolulu, where we arrived on the sixteenth of October, A. D. 1853. We then went to Owyhee, where we overhauled and painted the ship. The next season we proceeded to the Japan and Ochotsk Seas, stopping at different islands to trade with the natives, who readily exchange fruits and vegetables for cloth and to bacco. The islands of the Pacific are Innumerable; the climate and productions of thousands of them are excellent; most of them are inhabited; and the question, " Whence came these motley tribes, these denizens of ocean land ?" is more easily asked than answered. A description of their physiognomy, traits, peculiarities, rites, ceremonies, habits, laws, customs, employments, etc., is subject matter for unwritten volumes. 8o The Old Sailor s Story. Our second season's cruise was successful, and we ob tained about thirteen thousand fur seal-skins and six hundred barrels of oil, which we landed at Honolulu for transhipment. Then, after overhauling and refitting, we cruised to the southward to while away the time and searched for whales; and again, in the spring of A. D. 1855, we proceeded to the Ochotsk, but this season we had less success and the result was about seven thousand skins and thfee hundred barrels of oil. On the first of July, A. D. 1855, I had a narrow escape. We were on shore killing seal and I struck at a savage sea- lion with a lance. He wrung the lance from my grasp and broke the pole. Being without means of defense, I en deavored to back out of the contest; but stumbling over a dead seal I fell, and if the cooper, who was hear, had not rapped him as he did some other person would have related the consequences. I soon rallied and had the satisfaction of putting a rifle ball through the monster's cranium. He was thirteen feet In length and well proportioned, capable of taking any man's head at a single mouthful. We arrived, after our third season's cruise, at Hono lulu In, October, A. D. 1855,' and among our letters was one conveying the mournful intelligence of the decease of our youngest son, aged twenty-five, on the Isthmus of Panama, on his, way from Callao to San Francisco. ' Not wishing to go on another season's cruise, I made arrangements with Mr. Ellas Perkins, the agent of our firm, whereby the command of the N, S. Perkins was transferred to Captain Asa Fish, a New London man, and I agreed to take charge of and proceed to New London with the ship The Old Sailor's Story. Brookline; my remuneration for the same was to be one hun dred dollars per month. We sailed from the Sandwich Islands in November with a. full cargo of oil and seal-skins; and as the Brookline was a slow sailer, or what seamen call a good monthly packet, I now come to a long passage of which I will give a few brief details. On December 9th we crossed the equator. On the twenty-second we stopped at Oratonga, which lies near the southern tropic. Here we were hospitably received and en tertained by the missionary, the Rev. Mr. Bussecot. This is a round, high Island, one of the Harvey group, surrounded by a coral reef some thirty miles in circumference. The cli mate is mild, the soil fertile, and the natives appeared to be intelligent and honest. Here we obtained fruits, vegetables, wood and water, all at cheap rates, for which we paid in calico at twenty-five cents a yard. We then made good progress, considering the dullness of our ship, and on the first of February, A. D. 1856, we doubled the perilous locality of Cape Horn and had the At lantic Ocean before us. We had a long, tedious passage to the equator, which we crossed on the first of April; but after that time we made better progress -and we arrived at New London on April 30th, after one hundred and eighty days' passage from the Sandwich Islands. We had been absent from home forty-four months, and had sailed during that time, according to a rough 82 The Old Sailor's Story. calculation, a distance of some seventy-five thousand miles. For the benefit of those boys who. learn from their ge ographies that the distance around the world Is about twenty- five thousand miles, we will say that sailing around the world requires the accomplishing of a much greater distance, as any intelligent lad can easily perceive by giving attention to the form of the continents, as represented on an artificial globe, or a map of the hemispheres. The following is the table of straight line distances which I sailed on this voyage in the circumnavigation of the world, and dpes not Include my three cruises from the Sand wich Islands to the Japan and Ochotsk Seas, nor my mean derings between seasons In cruising for whales, nor devia tions on account of adverse winds. MILES. From New London to Teneriffe, - - 4,000 " Teneriffe to Cape De Verdes, 700 " Cape De Verdes to the equator, - 1,200 " equator to Tristine Islands, - 2,700 " Tristlnes to Prince Edwards, - " 2,800 Prince Edwards to Crozettes, ' - - 550 " Crozettes to Desolation, - 600 " Desolation to S. Cape, New Zealand, 4,500 " New Zealand to Society Islands, 2,000' " Society Islands to Sandwich Islands, 2,640 " Sandwich Islands to Cape Horn, - 4,600 " Cape Horn to New London, - 10,256 Total, - - - 36,546 The Old Sailor's Story. 83 I will now commence a narrative of my last voyage around the world. I had been at home a whole year, and finding it dull on the land after having spent so much of my life on the ocean, I thought I would try my luck again. A Quaker once told me th^t we must try to grow a lit tle better and a little richer every year, especially the latter. This seems to be a general propensity of the human race. I fell In with a speculative acquaintance who, as I after wards found out, was tinctured with aberration of mind, who induced me to go in for the purchase of a vessel with him, saying he possessed means enough to purchase a vessel, and would do so If I would consent to take charge of the same. So we bought a new bark In Boston, called the Tem pest, for $11,500, supposed by competent judges to be a good bargain. But my friend, through the influence of his son, induced the firm of Frink & Prentis to take the bulk of her off his hands and act as agents. Soon after the arrival of the bark at New London my friend became so furious that his friends were obliged to send him to an insane asylum, and I was left the responsible party in the transaction. This was in the. autumn of A. D. 1856; and as freight ing was generally dull we laid her up for a spell, coppering and putting her in sea-trim in hopes that business would re vive; but freighting prospects continuing the same, we con cluded to fit her up for a whaling and sealing voyage. By the advice and Influence of the late Hon. Thomas W. Williams, who will be long remembered as a successful 84 The Old Sailor's Story. whaling agent and man of business, we were persuaded to dispatch the Tempest to the Spitzbergen regions, and I was furnished with Scoresby's journals and information which Major Williams obtained by correspondence with whaling agents In Scotland, setting forth the frequent appearance of whales in the region of ocean north of Russia. I sailed In May 21st, A. D. 1857, and made a straight course for the grand banks of Newfoundland. The bark was a fast sailer, and on the thirteenth of June we made some small islands at the south of Iceland. On the nineteenth we were in latitude sixty-six degrees north and had the sun above the horizon the whole twenty- four hours. We continued on our way to the north and east, and on the twenty-second the sun was twelve degrees above the horizon at midnight and the thermometer indicated zero. On the twenty-third we crossed the meridian of Green wich. On the twenty-sixth we made the snow-capped moun tains of Bear Island and our latitude was seventy-four de grees fourteen minutes north. Walrus were taken in large numbers, in days of yore, from this island by the Dutch and Russians. On the fifth of July we were embayed In the Ice, and our situation in case of a gale of wind would have been ex tremely perilous, but the weather continued moderate. On the sixth we succeeded in gaining open water by keeping under slow headway and sheering clear of the la^ge ice. The Old Sailor's Story. 85 On the eighth we saw three small vessels standing to the northeast; probably fishing vessels from the White Sea bound, to Nova Zenibla. July 9th. Saw plenty of Ice and no whales. Disap pointment is the common lot of mortals. July I Ith. We were now about fifty miles from Nova Zembla and came to compact ice with no channel-ways, so I concluded to back out. July 13th. Thick and hazy; making progress to the westward. July 14th. Cold, freezing weather; saw heavy icebergs. July 28th. Saw Spitzbergen Mountains; and so wore away the summer days. We made slow progress on account of ice and fog; we recrossed the first meridian; sighted the east coast of Greenland; but although we sought diligently for whales our search was totally unsuccessful, and on the ninth of August we concluded to proceed to a more genial climate. So we made the best progress we could to the Azores, where we arrived on the eighth of September, where we procured fruits and fresh meat, potatoes, etc., and learned that the sperm-whale fleet had been successful, while we had endured the hardships of the frigid zone and all for naught. We cruised for several days in the vicinity of these islands In hopes of obtaining one or more sperm whales, but we found none; and so we proceeded for other parts, and af ter touching at the Cape De Verdes to land letters, we con tinued to the southwest and crossed the equator on the twenty-fifth of October, In the longitude of seventeen de grees ten minutes west. 86 The Old Sailor's Story. On the twenty-sixth we took the southeast trades strong and braced up sharp on the wind to the south-southwest, and our position on the thirty-first of October was latitude sixteen degrees fifty-eight minutes south, longitude twenty- six degrees sixteen minutes west. On the seventh of November we were in latitude twenty- se-(;en degrees thirty-five minutes south, and longitude twenty- three degrees thirty-four minutes west; and here we took the wind from the southwest and sailed southeast to the best of our ability. On the fourteenth we sighted Inaccessible Island, of the Tristine De Acuna group; and taking In the main-sail and reefing the top-sails we wore round to the northwest, cruising for whales. November 1 7th. Strong breezes from north-northwest. Bore away to the eastward. Saw fin-backs. Lay to at night. November 18th. Raised a right whale, the first seen, but he was bound to the windward and we lost sight of him. Saw a ship running before the wind. November 25th. Continuing on an easterly course, keeping a vigorous look-out for whales, crossed the meridian of Greenwich in latitude thirty-seven degrees nineteen min utes south. December 5th. Longitude nineteen degrees forty-five minutes east. Had a strong gale from west-northwest, with a very ugly cross sea and rips. Stove the starboard quarter boat; and as the sea boarded us badly fore and aft, we thought it advisable to heave to In order to save the boats. The Old Sailor s Story. We supposed ourselves on the edge of the Agulhas bank, which Is a horrid place with a heavy westerly gale. December 6th. Commences with heavy gale from west- northwest, with a heavy combing sea. Lay up northwest by north. At two o'clock P. M. bore off to running, but soon came Into^ a very ugly cross sea, and hove to to save our boats. ^ heavy comber struck the jib-boom, a thlrteen- Inch spar, and broke it in the cap; but on the recoil, the stays being taught brought it back to Its place, and nothing more troubled it during the night, which was a very fortunate oc currence, for had It gone under the bows we should have lost two jibs, for the sea was heaving in all directions. But we survived this peril; and when the wind becanie more moderate repaired damages and proceeded towards the east in company with the hark Union, of Sag Harbor. December 20th. We were on the eastern ground, where whole cargoes of oil have been easily procured; but now, with the finest weather, not a spout was to be seen. December 25th. Made Pig Island, of the Crozette group, bearing southeast by east; distant by estimation about twenty-five miles. December 31st. The last day of another year. Saw four sail, all whalers, but no whales. Clear, pleasant weather. January 6th. Killed one whale near Possession Island; lashed him and towed him off shore. This whale yielded only thirty-five barrels of oil. January 9th. Bore away for Desolation. January i6th. Stiff breezes from the northwest; at five A. M. shipped a heavy sea, nearly burying us. 88 The Old Sailor s Story. At ten A. M. spoke the ship Abram Parker, of New Bedford, clean. - Saw a ship to leeward; bore off and spoke the Abigail, of New Bedford, with no oil. January 17th. Not finding whales, concluded -to pro ceed eastward towards New Zealand. February 9th. Doubled the southeast cape of New Zealand; and being on old whaling grounds slackened our progress by laying to at night. February 14th. Crossed the one hundredth and eightieth meridian; and being in the vicinity of Lord Chat ham's Island lay to for daylight. February 15th. At seven A. M. made Chatham Island ahead; stood down its south side, between it and Pitts' Island. At two P. M. anchored In Hanson's Bay; in four fathoms, to procure vegetables. The natives came off and said they had plenty, which they would exchange for tobacco and clothing. We obtained three boat-loads of potatoes of an excel lent quality. One plug of tobacco paid for one hamper of potatoes. We obtained about two hundred bushels of po tatoes, a raft of water, a lot of wood and five hogs. This island I should judge to be about one hundred miles In length, and from fifteen to twenty-five miles in breadth. The chief town, which has a good harbor and a number of foreign residents, is near the north end. The soil, especially In the southern part, is excellent, producing grains, grass and vegetables of a superior quality. The Old Sailor s Story. 89 The natives are a sort of mixed race, and many of them speak the English language fluently. At one time the peaceful Inhabitants of this loyely land were attacked by the fierce and warlike tribes of New Zealand, savages and cannibals, who came in their war ca noes over a boisterous region of ocean, a distance of twelve degrees; and making war upon this innocent and unsus pecting population, they massacred large numbers of the males and reduced the remnant of the people to a condition of servitude. Four of my crew deserted here, being induced by the natives, who stowed them away for the purpose of receiving a reward for their apprehension. Such Is the duplicity of these semi-barbarians that they will fleece the men of all they have to spare to pay them for concealing the poor sail ors; and th«n they endeavor to make the captains pay them lots of tobacco for delivering up the runaways. But accord ing to my experience Chatham's Island is not the only place ih this wilderness world where fraud and double-dealing are sometimes practiced. We obtained our men by pa)ang money, tobacco and clothing, and proceeded on our cruise. February 28th. Clear, pleasant weather. We are a little to the north of the tropic of Capricorn, floating lazily along on the vast Pacific. Who can describe the grandeur and sublimity of a night In this locality, when the moon Is full, the air invigorating, the sea tranquil, and the mind of man is in harmony with the whole .? So glide along, little bark, towards those northern regions, where the leviathans of the deep are sporting among the floating, icy mountains. go The Old Sailor s Story. little thinking that we are coming with barbed and mur derous implements for their destruction. From this date, for many days, we had moderate breezes and sultry weather. On the seventeenth of March we raised a large sperm-whale; but he went too fact for our benefit, and after chasing him a good twelve miles we were obliged to give up the chase, which was quite discouraging. March 19th. At ten A. M. made a small, low island surrounded by a reef and covered with cocoa-nut trees. This island, called the Duke of York, we supposed to be unin habited, but on our approach we were surprised to see six ca noes come booming out over the reef with cocoa-nuts to sell. One of these canoe-fellows, a fine looking lad, stowed himself away in the hold of our vessel unbeknown to his chief; and his absence was not discovered by the chief until the canoes left the ship and were some distance off. We filled away; and as the fellow made signs to me that they would, kill him if I suffered them to retake hini, I stood away from the can oesr;. the men in which, after discovering the de sertion of this lad, bad headed for us again and were exerf; ing their arms and voices to the utmost. But the race was of short duration for we soon left them far in the rear, and the young fellow, who was. sprightly and intelligent, became a general favorite; and months, fafter, when he sickened and died with consumption in a high northern latitude, we sin^ cergly mourned his decea