YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

LIFE IN MEXICO,

RESIDENCE OF TWO YEARS

THAT COUNTRY.

BY MADAME C-^— — DE LA B-

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Thou art beautiful,
Queen of the valley f thou art beautiful 1
Thy walls, like silver, sparkle to the sun,
Melodious wave thy groves. . . .

Southey's Madoc.

WITH A HSElf al-jc,

BY W. H. PRESCOTT,
AUTHOR OF " THE HISTORY OF FERDINAND AND ISABELLA OF SPAIN.'

LONDON:
CHAPMAN AND HALL, 186, STRAND.
1843.

C. WHITING, BEAUFORT HOUSE. STRAND.

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^

PREFACE.

The present work is the result of observations made
during a two years' residence in Mexico, by a lady, whose
position there made her intimately acquainted with its
society, and opened to her the best sources of informa
tion in regard to whatever could interest an enlightened
foreigner. It consists of letters written to the members
of her own family, and, really, not intended originally, —
however incredible the assertion, — for publication. Feel
ing a regret that such rich stores of instruction and amuse
ment, from which I have so much profited, myself, should
be reserved for the eyes of a few friends only, I strongly
recommended that they should be given to the world.
This is now done, with a few such alterations and omis
sions as were necessary in a private correspondence; and
although the work would derive more credit from the
author's own name, than from any thing which I can say,
yet as she declines prefixing it, I feel much pleasure in
making this statement by way of introduction to the
public.
WILLIAM H. PRESCOTT.
Boston, December 20, 1842.

GLOSSARY

SPANISH OR MEXICAN WORDS

WHICH OCCUR IN THE COURSE OP THE WORK, WHICH ARE GENERALLY
EXPLAINED WHEN FIRST USED, BUT WHICH BEING REPEATED, THE
READER MIGHT FORGET AND WISH TO REFER TO.

Administrador — Agent.
Alameda — Public walk with trees.
Aguador — Water-carrier.
Alacran — Scorpion.
Anquera — Coating of stamped gilt leather, edged with little bells, which
covers the back of the horses.
Arriero — Muleteer.
Arroba — Spanish weight of twenty-five pounds.
Azotea — The flat roof of a house.
Barranca — Ravin e.
Botica — Apothecary's shop.
Calle — Street.
Cargadores — Men who carry loads.
Chinguirito — Spirit made from sugar-cane.
Chile — Hot peppers.
Compadre and Comadre — Godfather and Godmother ; names by which
two persons address each other, who' have held the same child at the
baptismal font, or have been sponsors together at a marriage, &c.
Candnigo — Canon or prebendary.
Comicos — Actors .
Camarista — Lady of honour.
Dia de Anos — Birthday.
Dulces — Sweetmeats.
Didrio — Daily newspapers.
Frisones — Large horses from the north.
Funcion — Solemnity — festival .
Frijoles — Brown beans.

GLOSSARY. V
Galopina — Kitchen -girl.
Garbanzos — Chick-peas, Cicer Arietinum.
Gachupin — Name given to the Spaniards in Mexico.
Garita — City-gate .
Goleta — Schooner.
Gentuza — Rabble.
Honras — Funeral honours.
Hacienda — Country-place.
Ingenio de Azucat — Sugar plantation.
Invdlidos — Disabled soldiers.
Jarro — Earthen jar.
Ladrones — Robbers.
Leperos — Beggars, low persons.
Litera — Litter.
Monte Pio — Office where money is lent on security.
Mezcal — Brandy distilled from pulque.
Manga — Cloak made of cloth, with a hole in the middle for putting the
head through.
Novios — Betrothed persons.
Nuestro Amo — Our Master, used in speaking of the Host.
Ojo de Agua — Spring of water.
Portales — Covered portico supported by columns.
Pulqueria — Shop where pulque is sold.
Paseo — Public walk.
Paso — Pace, pacing.
Padrino — Godfather.
Plaza — Square.
Patio — Courtyard.
Petate — Matting .
Poblana — Woman of Puebla.
Pronunciamiento — A revolution in Mexico.
Pronunciadqs — Those who revolt.
Rancho — A farm.
Ranchero — Farmer.
Rebozo — A scarf that goes over the head.
Reja — Iron grate.
Sopilote — Species of carrion vulture.
Sarape  A woollen blanket more or less fine, with a hole for the head to
go through.
Traspaso — Conveyance, transfer.
Tilma — Indian doak.
Tierra caliente —The hot land.
Tertulia — An evening party.
Toreador— Bull-fighter.
Tortilla — Species of thin cake.
Tort'dlera — Woman who bakes tortillas.
Vaca — Joint stock in gambling.
Vomito — Name given to the yellow fever.
Venta — Inn.

The Publishers of the Foreign Library, having been favoured by Mr.
Prescott with an early copy of these Letters, lose no time in submitting
them to the English public, accompanied with the recommendation of so
high an authority as the Author of the " History of Ferdinand and
Isabella."

London, Jan. 16, 1843.

CONTENTS.

1

LETTER THE FIRST.
Departure of the " Norma"— Last Look of New York Bay— Fellow Passengers-
Contrary Winds— Deceitful Appearances— Sun-set in Southern Latitudes-
Seas passed over by Columbus— Varied Occupations on Ship-board— Berry
Islands— Bahama Banks— Evening in a Tropical Sea— L. E. L.— Pan of Ma-
tanzas— Morro Castle -Bay of Havana— Arrival— Handsome House in Ha
vana— Sights and Sounds  LETTER THE SECOND.
Havana Aristocracy — Lucia de Lammermoor — La Rossi and Montresor — Brig of
War— Countess de V  a— Dinner at H  a's— Southerly Winds— View
from the Balcony— Qnmta of Count V  a— San Cristobal— Mass at San
Felipe— Erard Harp— Dinner at General M— — o's— A Desert at Havana-
Queen of Spain's Birth-day— Dinner at the Yntendencia— La Pantanelli—
Theatre of Tacon— Railroad— Cure by Lightning— Shops— Ball at the Coun
tess F  a's — Last Visit — Souvenirs  9
LETTER THE THIRD.
Departure in the Jason — Spanish Captain and Officers — Life on Board a Man of
War — " Balances" — Fishing — " Le Petit Tambour" — Cocoa-nuts — A Norte —
Spanish Proverb — Peak of Orizava — Theory and Practice — Norte Chocoktero
—Contrary Winds — Chain of Mountains — Goleta  14
, LETTER THE FOURTH.
Distant View of Vera Cruz — Pilots — Boat from the City — Mutual Salutes — Ap
proach to Vera Cruz — Crowd on the Wharf — House of Don Dionisio V  o —
Guard of Honour — German Piano — Supper — Madonna. — Aspect of the City —
Sopihtes — Deliberations— General Guadalupe Victoria — Two-headed Eagle —
Dilapidated Saint — Harp — Theatre — Dona Innocencia Martinez — Invitation
from General Santa Anna  20
LETTER THE FIFTH.
Departure from Vera Cruz— Sand Hills — Oriental' Scene — Mango de Clavo —
General Santa Anna — Breakfast— Escort and Diligence — Santa Fe — Puente
Nacional — Bridge sketched by Mrs. Ward — Country in December — Don
Miguel — First Impressions — Fruit — Plan del Rio — German Musicians — Sleep
ing Captain — Approach to Jalapa — Appearance of the City — Cofre de Perote
— Flowers — House and Rock — Last View of Jalapa — Change of Scenery —
San Miguel de los Soldados — Perote — Striking Scene before Daybreak — Non-
arrival of Escort — Yankee Coachman — Dispute — Departure — Company of
Lancers — Alcalde — Breakfast at La Ventilla — Pulque — Double Escort —
Crosses — Brigand-looking Tavern keeper — Ojo de Agua — Arrival at PuehUi —
Dress of the Peasants — Christmas-eve — Inn — " Nacimiento"  26
LETTER THE SIXTH.
Departure from Puebla— Chirimoyas— Rio Frio — Indian Game— Black Forest —
Valley of Mexico— Recollections of Tenochtitlan— Mexican Officer— Reception
b

38

viii CONTENTS.
—Scenery— Variety of Dresses— Cheers— Storm of Rain— Entry to Mexico—
Buenavista— House by Daylight— Sights from the Windows— Visits— Mex
ican Etiquette— Countess C  a— Flowers in December— Serenade— Pa
triotic Hymn  LETTER THE SEVENTH.
Debut in Mexico— Cathedral— Temple of the Aztecs— Congregation— Stone of
Sacrifices— Palace— Importunate LSperos— Visit to the President-Countess
C  a— Street Cries— Tortilleras— Sartor JResartus  46
LETTER THE EIGHTH.
Ball in Preparation— Agreeable Family— Fine Voices— Theatre— Smoking—
Castle of Chapultepec— Viceroy Galvez— Montezuma's Cypress— Vice-Queen
—Valley of Mexico— New Year's Day— Opening of Congress— Visits from
the Diplomatic Corps— Poblana Dress—" Funcion Extraordinaria"— Theatre—
</ Visit to the Cathedral of Guadalupe— Divine Painting— Bishop— Beggars—
Mosquitoes' Eggs  55
LETTER THE NINTH.
Visits from Spaniards— Visit from the President— Disquisition— Poblana Dress
—Bernardo the Matador— Bull-fight Extraordinary— Plaza de Toros— Fire
works— Portrait of C  n— Fancy Ball — Dress— Costume of the Patronesses
—Beauty in Mexico— Doctor's Visit— Cards of /aire part— Marquesa de San
Roman— Toilet in Morning Visits of Ceremony— Attempt at Robbery —
Murder of a Consul— La Guera Rodriguez— Dr. Plan— M. de Humboldt—
Anecdote — Former Customs  62
LETTER THE TENTH.
San Fernando— House of Perez de Galvez— A Removal— Size of the Houses —
Old Monastery— View by Sunset— Evening Visits— Mexican Etiquette — Night
View from the Azotea— Tacubaya— Magueys — Making of Pulque— Organos
and Nopal — Environs of Mexico — Miracle — Hacienda — View from the Coun
tess c  a's House — Arzobispado — Anecdote — Comparative View of Beauty
 Indians — Rancheritas — Mexican Cordiality — Masses for the Dead — San
Agustin — Form of Invitation — Death of a Senator — A Mistake  73
LETTER THE ELEVENTH.
Callede Tacuba — The Leap of Alvarado — The " Noche Triste" — Sale of a Curate's
Goods — Padre Leon — Leprosy — Pictures — The Annunciation — The Alameda
Paseo de Bucarelli — The Viga — Indians in Canoes — A Murder — A Country
pgte — Visit to the Colegia Vizcaino — The Jota Arragonesa — Old Soldiers... 83
LETTER THE TWELFTH.
The Viga during the Carnival — Variety of Equipages — The Millionaires — The
Monks — Masked Ball — An Alarming Sight — Medical Students — Dinner at the
Prussian Minister's — Rides on Horseback — Indian Love of Flowers — Santa
Anita — The Chinampas — Their Origin — Indians in Canoes — Song of " El
Palomo" — Fighting — The Great Lakes — The Drain of Huehuetoca — The Great
Market of Tlatelolco  91
LETTER THE THIRTEENTH.
Convent of San Joaquin— Mexico in the Morning— Tacuba — Carmelite Prior —
Convent Garden — Hacienda of Los Morales — El Olivar — A Huacamaya —
Humming Birds — Correspondence — Expected Consecration — Visit to the Mi-
neria — Botanic Garden — Arbol de las Manitas — The Museum — Equestrian
Statue — Academy of Painting and Sculpture — Disappointment  99
LETTER THE FOURTEENTH.
Palm Sunday — Holy Thursday — Variety of Costumes — San Francisco — Santa
Domingo — Santa Teresa — Nuns — Stone Bust — The Academy — Religious Pro
cession — Pilgrimage to the Churches — Santa Clara — Nun's Voice — Orange
Trees and Rose Bushes — The Cathedral Illuminated— Our Saviour in Chains

CONTENTS. ix
—Good Friday— The Great Square towards Evening— Dresses of Men, Wo
men, and Children— Approach of the Host— Judas— Great Procession— Mi-
sere— The Square by Moonlight— A Lonely Walk— Sabado de Gloria— Hall in
Contemplation— Weekly Soirees— Embroidered Muslins— A Tertulia at Home 104
LETTER THE FIFTEENTH
Letter from the Archbishop — Visit to the " Encarnacion" — Reception — Descrip
tion — The Novices — Convent Supper— Picturesque Scene— Sonato on the
Organ — Attempt at Robbery— Alarms of the Household— Visit to San
Agustin— Anonymous Letter — The Virgin de los Remedios— Visit to the Chapel
—The Padre— The Image— Anecdote of the Large Pearl— A Mine  114
LETTER THE SIXTEENTH
Mexico in May— Leave Mexico for Santiago — Coachof Charles Tenth— Mexican
Travelling— General Aspect of the Country— Village of Santa Clara— Rob
bers' House — -Temples of the Sun and Moon — San Juan — Mexican Posada —
School-house — Skulls — Hard Fare — Travelling Dress — Sopayuca — Military
Administrator — Santiago — Matadors and Picadors — Evenings in the Country
— Dances — Mexican Songs — Cempoala — Plaza de Toros — Skill of the Horse
men — Omatusco — Accident — Tulansingo — Beautiful Garden — Mexican Dishes
— Fruits — Horses — Games of Forfeits — Ranchera's Dress — Young Girls and
their Admirers — Verses — Knowledge of Simple Medicine — Indian Baths —
Hidden Treasures — Anecdote  121
LETTER THE SEVENTEENTH.
Arrival of Tepenacasco — Lake with Wild Ducks — Rjiined Hacienda — Sunset on
the Plains — Troop of Asses — Ride by Moonlight-^LiaVB^Tepinacasct) — San
Miguel — Description — Thunder Storm — Guasco — Journey to Real del Monte
— English Road — Scenery — Village of Real — Count de Regla — Director's
House — English Breakfast — Visit to the Mines — Mining Speculations —
Grand Scenery — Visit to Regla — The Cascade — The Storm — Loneliness — A
Journey in Storm and Darkness — Return to Tepenacasco — Journey to So
payuca — Narrow Escape — Famous Bull — Return to Mexico  136
LETTER THE EIGHTEENTH.
English Ball — Dresses — Diamonds — Mineria — Arrival of the Pope's Bull —
Consecration of the Archbishop — Foreign Ministers — Splendour of the Cathe
dral — Description of the Ceremony  143
LETTER THE NINETEENTH.
Mexican Servants — Anecdotes — Remedies — An unsafe Porter — Galopinas —
The Reboso— The Sarape — Women-cooks — Foreign Servants — Characteris
tics of Mexican Servants — Servants' Wages — Nun of the Santa Teresa —
Motives for Taking the Veil  148
LETTER THE TWENTIETH
The Convent Entry— Dialogue— A Chair in Church— Arrival of the Nun —
Dress — Jose Maria— Crowd— Withdrawal of the Black Curtain —The Taking
of the Veil— The Sermon— A Dead Body— Another Victim— Convent of the
Encarnacion— Attempt at a Hymn— Invitation— Morning Visit— The Nun
and her Mother — Banquet— Taking Leave— Ceremony of the Veil-taking— A
Beautiful Victim— The Last Look— Presentation to the Bishop— Reflections
— Verses  15*
LETTER THE TWENTY-FIRST.
San Agustin— The Gambling Fete— The Beauties of the Village— The Road
from Mexico— Entry to San Agustin— The Gambling Houses— San Antonio—
The Pedregal— Last Day of the Fete— The Cock-pit— The Boxes— The Cock
fight—Decorum—Comparisons—Dinner—Ball at Calvario— House of General
Moran— View of the Gambling Tables— The Advocate— Ball at the Plaza de
Gallos— Return to Mexico— Reflections— Conversation between two Ministers 163

X CONTENTS.
LETTER THE TWENTY-SECOND.
Countess C  a — Gutierrez Estrada — Dinner at General Moran's — Dowager
Marquesa— Fete at San Antonio — Approach of the Rainy Season— Diamonds
and Plate— Great Ball— Night Travelling— Severe Storm— Chapter of Acci
dents— Corpus Christi— Poblana Dress— Book Club— Ball— Humming Bird-
Franciscan Friar— Missions to Old and New California— Zeal and Endurance
of the Missionaries — Present Condition— Convent Gardener  168
LETTER THE TWENTY-THIRD.
The President— Yturbide— Visit from the Archbishop— Seiior Canedo— General
Almonte — Seiior Cuevas — Situation of an Archbishop in Mexico — Of Sefior
Posada— His Life— Mexican Charity— Wax Figures— Anecdote— Valuable
Present — Education — Comparison — Schools — Opportunities — Natural Talent
— Annual — Compliments to the Mexican Ladies by the Editor— Families of
the Old School— Morals— Indulgence— Manners— Love of Country— Colleges 176
LETTER THE TWENTY-FOURTH
Revolution in Mexico — Gomez Farias and General Urrea — The Federalists — The
President Imprisoned— Firing— Cannon— First News— Escape — Proclamation
of the .Government — Cannonading — Count C  a — Houses Deserted —
Counte'ss del V  e — Proclamation of the Federalists — Circular of the Fede
ralists — Scarcity of Provisions — Bursting of a Shell — Refugees — Dr. Plan —
Young Lady Shot — Gomez Farias — Rumours— Address of Gomez Farias —
Balls and Bullets — Visit from the  Minister — Arrival of Monsieur de 
Expected Attack — Skirmish —Appearance of the Street — -San Cosme —
General  The Count de B  More Rumours — Suspense — Can
nonading — Government Bulletin — Plan of the Rebels Defeated — Proclamation
of the President — Of General Valencia — Maternal Affection — Fresh Reports
— Families leaving the City — Letter from Santa Anna — Bustamante's Letter
when Imprisoned — Propositions — Refusal — Tacubaya — Archbishop— Fresh
Proposals — Refusal — Second Letter from Santa Anna — Government Bulletin
— Proclamations — An Awkward Mistake — The Archbishop visits the Presi
dent — Conclusion of the Revolution— Government Newspaper — Circulars  183
LETTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH
Plan of the Federalists— Letter from Farias — Signing of Articles — Dispersion of
the " Pronunciados" — Conditions — Orders of General Valencia — Of the Go
vernor — Address of General Valencia — Departure of our Guests — The Cos-
mopolita — State of the Palace and Streets — Bulletin of the Firing — Interior of
Houses — Escape of Families — Conduct of the Troops — Countess del V  e
— Santa Anna — Congress — Anecdote — Discussion in Congress — Leprosy  200
LETTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH.
Visiters — Virgin de los Remedios — Encarnacion — Fears of the Nuns — Santa
Teresa — Rainy Season — Amusing Scene — " Estd a h disposition de V." —
Mexican Sincerity — Texian Vessels — Fine Hair — School-mistress — Climate —
Its Effects — Nerves — Tours de Force — Anniversary — Speech — Paseo — San
Angel — Tacubaya — Army of " The Three Guarantees" — Plan of Yguala — A
Murder — Indian Politeness — Drunkenness — Sefior Canedo — Revolutions in
Mexico — The Penon — The Baths— General  Situation and View — In
dian Family — Of the Boiling Springs — Capabilities — Solitude — Chapultepec —
The Desagravios — Penitence at San Francisco — Discipline of the Men — Dis
course of the Monk — Darkness and Horrors — Salmagundi  206
LETTER THE TWENTY-SEVENTH.
Fete-day — Friendly Hint — Precautions — General Tranquillity — President in San
Agustin — Revisit Museum — Ancient Manuscripts — Sculpture — Bronze Bust,
&c. — Freshness after Rain — Ball at the French Minister's — Pamphlet — Guti
errez Estrada — His Character— Concealment — Mexicalsingo — Minister of the
Treasury — Archbishop's Permission — Paintings — Mexican Painters — Santa
Teresa — Description of the Interior — The Penitences — Tortures— Disciplines,
&c. — Supper — Profane Ballads— Monasteries — San Francisco — Padre Prior —
Soldiers and Friars  219

CONTENTS.
LETTER THE TWENTY-EIGHTH.
Dia de Muertos— Leave Mexico— Herraderos— San Cristobal— Tunas— Plaza de
Toros— Throwing the Laso— Accidents— Rustic Breakfast— Country Fare-
Baked Meat— Indian Market— Buried Bull— Mountain— Solitary Hacienda—
Reyes— Mules marked— Return— Queen of Spain's Birthday— Diplomatic
Dinner 

XI

227

LETTER THE TWENTY-NINTH.
Virgin of Cavadonga — Santo Domingo— Decorations and Music — Daguerreotype
— Weekly Soirees— An Arrival— An Earthquake— Honourable Mr. 
Broken Furniture— Dins- Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe— Party to the
JDesierto—Itzcuin tepotzoili — Inn of Guajimalco — Ruined Convent — Its Origin —
DejeunS a la Fourchelte — Splendid Scenery — Vow to the Virgin — Musical Mass
— Tacuba — Ride with the Prior  232
LETTER THE THIRTIETH.
Christmas-day — Kalends and Mass — Amateur Performances — Solo — Posadas —
Wandering of the Holy Family— Nacimiento— Crowded Party— French Cooks
— Mexican Cook — State of Household— New Year's-day — Mass— Dirtiness of
the Churches, &c. — Comparisons — Private Chapels— English Club — Prepara
tions for Journey  237
LETTER THE THIRTY-FIRST.
Leave Mexico — Cuernavaca — Tierra Caliente — Atlacamulco — Orange Groves —
Sugar Cane — Annual Produce — Will of Cortes — Description — Coffee Planta
tion — Scorpions — List of Venemous Reptiles — Acapansingo — Doubts and Diffi
culties — A Decision  242
LETTER THE THIRTY-SECOND.
Leave Atlacamulco — Assemble by Starlight — Balmy Atmosphere — Flowers and
Trees of the Tropics — The formidable Barrancas — Breakfast imder the Trees
— Force of the Sun — Meacatlan — Hospitality — Profitable Estate — Leave Mea-
catlan — Beautiful Village — Musical Bells — Ride by Moonlight — Sugar Fires —
Cocoyotla — Old Gentleman — Supper — Orange Trees and Cocoas — Delicious
Water — Sugar Estates — A Scorpion — Set off for the Cave — Morning Ride —
Dangerous Path  248
LETTER THE THIRTY-THIRD.
,Cave of Cacahuamilpa — Superstition — Long-bearded Goat — Portal — Vestibule
— Fantastic Forms— Breakfast — Pine Torches— Noble Hall— Stalactites and
Stalagmites — Egyptian Pyramids — Double Gallery — Wonderful Formations-
Corridor — Frozen Landscape — Amphitheatre — World in Chaos — Skeleton —
Wax Lights — Hall of Angels — Return — Distant Light — Indian Alcalde —
Cauthmilpas — Rancho— Return to Cocoyotla— Chapel— Meacatlan— Eclipse of
the Moon — Benighted Travellers— Indian Village — El Puente — Return to
Atlacamulco  253
LETTER THE THIRTY-FOURTH.
Ride by Starlight— Fear of Robbers— Tropical Wild Flowers— Stout Escort—
Hautepec— Hacienda of Cocoyoc— A Fire— Three Thousand Orange Trees-
Coffee Mills, &c— Variety of Tropical Fruits— Prodigality of Nature— Casa-
sano— Celebrated Reservoir— Ride to Santa Clara— A Philosopher -A Scor
pion—Leave Santa Clara — Dangerous Barranca — Colon — Agreeable House-
Civil Administrador— San Nicolas— Solitude— Franciscan Friar— Rainy Morn
ing—Pink Turban— Arrival at Atlisco— Cypress— Department of Puebla—
Volcanoes— Dofia Marina— Verses— Pqpocafeptf— Cholula— Great Pyramid-
Arrival at Puebla  261
LETTER THE THIRTY-FD?TH
Theatre— Portmanteaus— Visiters— Houses of Puebla— Fine Arts— Paseo— Don
N. Ramos Arispe— Bishop— Cotton Factories— Don Esteban Antunano—
Bank of Avio— United States Machinery— Accident— Difficulties— Ship-

xu CONTENTS.
wrecks — Detentions — Wonderful Perseverance — "La ConstanciaMejicana" —
Hospital— Prison— El Carmen— Paintings— Painted Floors— Angels— Cathe
dral— Gold and Jewels— A Comedy— Bishop's Palace— Want of Masters  269
LETTER THE THIRTY-SIXTH.
Concert — Diligence— Leave Puebla — Escort — View from the Cathedral Towers
— Black Forest — History of the Crosses — Tales of Murder — An Alarm — Re
port of a Skirmish — Rio Frio — Law Concerning Robbers — Their Moderation —
Return to Mexico — Carnival Ball — Improvement in Dress  275
LETTER THE THIRTY-SEVENTH.
Distinguished Men— Generals Bustamante, Santa Anna, and Victoria — Anecdote
— Sefior Pedraza — Sefior Gutierrez Estrada — Count Cortina — Sefior Go-
rostiza — Don Carlos Bustamante — " Mornings in the Alameda" — Don Andres
Quintana Roo — Don Lucas Alaman — General Moran — General Almonte —
Seiior Canedo — Senors Neri del Barrio and Casaflores — Doctor Valentin —
Don Francisco Tagle — Eight Revolutions  280
LETTER THE THIRTY-EIGHTH.
New Minister — San Angel — Profitable Pulque Estate — The Village — Surround
ing Scenery— The Indians— The Padre — The Climate— Holy Week in the
Country — Dramatic Representations — Coyohuacan — The Pharisees — Image
of the Saviour — Music and Dresses — Procession — Catholicism amongst the
Indians — Strange Tradition — Paul the Fifth — Contrast between a Mexican
and a New England Village — Love of Fireworks — Ferdinand the Seventh —
Military Ball — Drapeaux  285
LETTER THE THIRTY-NLNTH.
Holy Thursday at Coyohaucan — Hernan Cortes — His Last Wishes — Padres
Camilas — Old Church — Procession — Representation of the Taking of Christ
— Curate's Sermon under the Trees — A Religious Drama — Good Friday —
Portable Pulpit — -Heat — Booths — Religious Procession — Simon the Cyrenian
— Costumes — Curate's Sermon — Second Discourse — Sentence Pronounced by
Pontius Pilate — Descent from the Cross — Procession of the Angels — Funeral
Hymn — The Pesame to the Virgin — Sermon — " Sweet Kitty Clover" — Music
in Mexico — Anecdote  290

LETTER THE FORTIETH.
Balloon — San Bartolo — Indian Women — A Beauty— Different Castes— Indians
— Their Character, &c. — Those of Noble Race — Ball at the French Minister's
— AbeciSa — Danger of Walking unattended— Shooting Party— A Murder —
Robbery of a Farmhouse — Discomfited Robber Captain — The " Zambos" —
Letters and Visiters — Country Life in Mexico  297
LETTER THE FORTY-FIRST.
Gambling — Fete at San Agustin— Breakfast at San Antonio — Report — Cock
fight— Ladies— Private Gambling— A Vaca— The Calvurio— Bonnets— Dinner
—Evening Ball— Mingling of Classes— Copper Tables— Dresses and Decora
tions — IndianBankers.Male and Female— Decorum — Habit — Holders of Banks
— Female Gambler— Robbery — Anecdote — Bet — Casa de Moneka — Leave San
Angel— Celebration — Address — Cross and Diploma— Reply — Presentation of
a Sword — Discourses and Addresses— Reflections  305
LETTER THE FORTY-SECOND.
Italian Opera — Artists, Male and Female — Prima Donna— Lucia de Lammer
moor — Some Disappointment — SecondRepresentation — Improvement — Romeo
and Giulietta — La Ricci — La Senora Cesari — The Mint — False Coining— Re
petition of Lucia— Procession by Night— A Spanish Beauty— Discriminating
Aiidience— A little too simple— Gold Embroidery— Santiago— Pilgrims — Old
Indian Custom — Soiree — Mexico by Moonlight — Mysterious Figure — Arch
bishop — Viceroy.  316

CONTENTS. xiii
LETTER THE FORTY-THIRD.
Revfllagigedo— The False Merchant and the Lady,— The Viceroy, the Unjust
Spaniard, the Indian and the Golden Ounces— Horrible Murder— Details-
Oath— Country Family— The Spot of Blood— The Mother Unknowingly De
nounces her Son— Arrest of the Three — Confession— Execution — The Viceroy
fulfils his Pledge — Paving of the Streets— Severity to the Monks— Solitary
Damsel — Box on the Ear — Pension — Morning Concert — New Minister —
" Street of the Sad Indian" — Traditions — A Farewell Audience — Inscription
on a Tomb  322
LETTER THE FORTY-FOURTH
Agitation — Storm — Revolution — Manifesto — Resembling a Game of Chess —
Position of the Pieces — Appearance of the City — Firing — State of Parties —
Comparisons — " Comicios" — The People — Congress — Santa Anna — Amnesty
Offered — Roaring of Cannon — Proclamation — Time to Look at Home — The
Will of the Nation — Different Feelings — Judge's House Destroyed — The Mint
in Requisition — Preparations — Cannonading — " Los Enanos."  332
LETTER THE FORTY-FIFTH.
Leave Mexico — Travelling Equipage — San Xavier — Fine Hacienda — Millionaires
— Well-educatedLadies — Garden, &c. — Tlanapantla — Indian Hut — Mrs. Ward
Dofia Margarita — The Pronunciamiento — False Step — Santa Anna in Puebla
—Neutrality — General Paredes — President in Tlanapantla — Tired Troops —
Their March — Their Return — Curate's House — Murder — General Paredes
in the Lecheria — President in Tlanapantla — A Meeting — Return of the Presi
dent and his Troops — General Paredes and his Men — Santa Anna in Tacu
baya. — A Junction — President in Mexico — Allied Sovereigns — Plan — Articles —
President declares for Federalism — Resigns — Results — Hostilities — Capitula
tion — Triumphal Entry — Te Deum — New Ministry  339
LETTER THE FORTY-SIXTH.
Santa Monica; — Solidity — Old Paintings — Anachronism — Babies and Nurses
from the Cuna— Society — Funds — Plan— Indian Nurses— Carmelite Convent
— Midnight Warning — Old Villages and Churches — Indian Bath — San Mateo
— The Lecheria— Fertility— Mo/mo Viejo— Dulness — Religious Exercises —
Return to Mexico — Mexican Hotel— New Generals— Disturbances— General
Bustamante — Inconvenience — Abuses in the Name of Liberty— Verses — In
dependence celebrated  350
LETTER THE FORTY-SEVENTH.
Opera— Santa Anna and his Suite— His Appearance— Belisaric— Solitary
" Viva .'" — Brilliant House — Military Dictatorship — San Juan de Dios —
Hospital de Jesus— Cuna— Old Woman and Baby— Different Apartments—
Acordada— Junta— Female Prisoners— Chief Crime— Travaux Force's—
Children— Male Prisoners— Forcats— Soldiers Gambling— Chapel— Confes
sional— Insane Hospital— Frenchmen— Different Kinds of Insanity— Kitchen
—Dinner— Insane Monk— "Black Chamber "—Soldiers— College— Santa
Anna'sLeg— Projects— All Saints— Senora P  a— Leave-takings  358
LETTER THE FORTY-EIGHTH.
Leave Mexico— Diligence— Indian Padre— Brandy-drinking Female— Bad Roads
— BeautifulView— Escort— GoodBreakfast— Crosses— Robber'sHead— Select
Party— Lerma— Valley of Toluca— Hacienda— Toluca— Count de B  and
Mr W  The Commandant— Gay Supper— Colonel Y  Day at Toluca
—journey to La Gabia—Bent and Hunger— Pleasant Quarters— Princely Es-
state— El Pilar— A Zorillo-A Wolf— Long Journey— Tortulas—Count de
B  State of Michoacan— Forest Scenery— Trojes ofAngangueo—Coraioit... 372
LETTER THE FORTY-NINTH.
Leave Trojes— Beautiful Territory— Tarrascan Indians— Taximaroa-Distressed
Condition— An Improvement-Cold Morning-Querendaro-Fine Breed ol
Horses— San Bartolc— Produce— Country Proprietors— Cotear—HiHe to mo-

XIV CONTENTS.
relia— Wild Ducks— Sunset— Cathedral Bell— Cuinchc— Curates Morelos, Ma-
tamoros, and Hidalgo— Warm Baths— Handsome Girls— Starving Travellers
—Lost Mules— Lancers— Night on a Heap of Straw— Mules Found— Tzint-
zontzan — King Calsonsi — Pascuaro — Kind Reception — Bishop — Robbers —
Cum — Night in a Barn — Mountain— Uruapa — Enchanting Scenery — Pleasant
Family — Jorullo  381
LETTER THE FIFTIETH.
Indian Dresses — Saints — Music — Union of Tropical and European Vegetation
— Old Customs— Falls of the Sararaqui— Silkworms— Indian Painting— Beau-
/ tiful Heroine — Leave Uruapa — Tziracuaratiro — Talkative Indian — Alcalde's
House— Pascuaro— Old Church— Mosaic Work— The Lake— The Cave —
Fried Fish — Rich Indians — Convent — Cuincho — Darkness — Morelia — Ala
meda — Cathedral — Silver — Waxworks — College — Wonderful Fleas  397
LETTER THE FIFTY-FIRST.
San Bartolo — Mass — Market — Rancheros — San Andres — Insanity — Rancho —
House of Don Carlos Heimbiirger — Wild Scenery — German Songs — Las Mil-
las — Leave-taking — Storm — Rainbow — El Pilar — La Gabia — Toluca — News
— Copper Pronunciamiento — Return to Mexico — General Moran — Funeral Ob
sequies — New Theatre — Cock's Mass — Santa Clara — Santa Fe Prisoners —
New Year  410
LETTER THE FIFTY-SECOND.
Last Day in Mexico — Theatre — Santa Anna — French Minister's — Parting —
Diligence — Last Look of Mexico — Fatigue — Robbers — Escort — Second Im
pressions — Baths at Jalapa, — Vera Cruz — Some Account of San Juan de Ulua
— Siege of 1825— Siege of 1838— General Bustamante— Theatre — Of the North
Winds  420
LETTER THE FIFTY-THIRD.
Sail in the Tyrian — Norther off Tampico — The Bar— The River Panuco — The
Pilot — The Shore — Alligator — " Paso de Dona Cecilia" — Tampico — Spanish
Consul's House— Society — Navigation — Banks of the Panuco — Extraordinary
Inoculation — The " Glorieta" — Leave Tampico — Furious Norther — Voyage —
Arrival at Havana  427
LETTER THE FIFTY-FOURTH.
Havana — The Carnival — The Elssler — La Angosta — Jngenio of Count V  a
— General Bustamante — Lord Morpeth — Leave Havana — Voyage in the Med-
way — Old Friends — Return to the United States  435

LIFE U MEXICO.

LETTER THE FIRST.

Departure of the " Norma"— Last look of New York Bay— Fellow-passengers
—Contrary Winds— Deceitful Appearances— Sunset in Southern Latitudes
—Seas passed over by Columbus— Varied Occupations on Ship-board —
Berry Islands— Bahama Banks— Evening in a Tropical Sea— L. E. L.— Pan
of Matanzas— Morro Castle— Bay of Havana— Arrival— Handsome House
in Havana— Sights and Sounds. Packet Ship Norma, Oct. 27th, 1839.
This morning, at 10 o'clock, we stepped on board the steamboat
Hercules, destined to convey us to our packet with its musical
name. The day was foggy and gloomy, as if refusing to be com
forted, even by an occasional smile from the sun. All prognosti
cated that the Norma would not sail to-day, but " where there's a
will," &c. Several of our friends accompanied us to the wharf ; the
Russian Minister, the Minister of Buenos Ayres, Mr.  , who
tried hard to look sentimental, and even brought tears into his eyes
by some curious process ; Judge  , Mr.  , and others, from
whom we were truly sorry to part.
The Norma was anchored in one of the most beautiful points of
the bay, and the steamboat towed us five miles, until we had passed
the Narrows. The wind was contrary, but the day began to clear
up, and the sun to scatter the watery clouds.
Still there is nothing so sad as a retreating view. It is as if time
were visibly in motion ; and as here we had to part from  , we
could only distinguish, as through a misty veil, the beauties of the
bay ; the shores covered to the water's edge with trees rich, in their
autumnal colouring ; the white houses on Staten Island — the whole
gradually growing fainter, till like a dream, they faded away.
The pilot has left us, breaking our last link with the land. We
B

2 > FELLOW-PASSENGERS.
still see the mountains of Neversink, and the lighthouse of Sandy
Hook. The sun is setting, and in a few minutes we must take our
leave, probably for years, of places long familiar to us.
Our fellow-passengers do not appear very remarkable. There is
Madame A  , returning from being prima donna in Mexico ,_ in
a packet called after the opera in which she was there a favourite,
with her husband Senor V  and her child. _ There is M. B — —
with moustaches like a bird's nest; a pretty widow in deep afflic
tion, at least in deep mourning; a maiden lady going out as a
governess, and every variety of Spaniard and Havanero. So now
we are alone, C  n and f, and my French femme-de-chambre,
with her air of Dowager Duchess, and moreov ersea-sick.
28th.— When I said I liked a sea life, I did not mean to be un
derstood as liking a merchant ship, with an airless cabin, and with
every variety of disagreeable odour. As a French woman on board,
with the air of an afflicted porpoise, and with more truth than
elegance, expresses it: "Tout devient puant, meme l'eau-de-
cologne." The wind is still contrary, and the Norma, beating up and down,
makes but little way. We have gone seventy-four miles, and of
these advanced but forty. Every one being sick to-day, the deck is
nearly deserted. The most interesting object I liave discovered on
board is a pretty little deaf and dumb girl, very lively and with an
intelligent face, who has been teaching me to speak on my fingers.
The infant heir of the house of  has shown bis good taste by
passing the day in squalling. M. B  , pale, dirty, and much
resembling a brigand out of employ, has traversed the deck witb
uneasy footsteps and a cigar appearing from out his moustaches, like
a light in a tangled forest, or a jack-o'-lantern in a marshy thicket.
A fat Spaniard has been discoursing upon the glories of olla podrida.
Au reste, we are slowly pursuing our way, and at this rate might
reach Cuba in three months.
And the stars are shining, quiet and silvery. All without is soft
and beautiful, and no doubt the Norma herself looks all in unison
with the scene, balancing herself like a lazy swan, white and gra
ciously. So it is without, and within, there is miserable sea-sick
ness, bilge-water, and all the unavoidable disagreeables of a small
packet. 31st. — Three days have passed without any thing worthy of
notice having occurred, except that we already feel the difference
of temperature. The passengers are still enduring sea-sickness in
all its phases.
This morning opened witb an angry dispute between two of the
gentlemen, on the subject of Cuban lotteries, and they ended by
applying to eacb other epithets which, however much they might
be deserved, were certainly rather strong ; but by dinner time
they were amicably engaged in concocting together an enormous
tureen of gaspachos, a sort of salad, composed of bread, oil, vinegar,

« « <* .

SEAS PASSED OVER BY COLUMBUS. 3
sliced onion and garlic — and the fattest one declares that in warm
weather, a dish of gaspachos, with plenty of garlic in it, makes him
feel as fresb as a rose. He must indeed be a perfect bouquet.
The opening of morning is dramatic in our narrow cabin. About
twenty voices in Spanish, German, Italian, and broken English,
strike up by degrees. From a neighbouring state room, Nid
d'oiseau puts forth his head. " Stooar ! a toomlar ! here is no
vater !" " Comin, sir, comin." " Caramba! Stooard !" " Comin,
sir, comin!" " Stuart ? vasser und toel !" " Here, sir !" " Amigo !
how is the wind ?" (This is the waking up of el Seiior Ministro,
putting his head half suffocated out of his berth.) " Oh steward !
steward !" " Yes, miss," " Come here, and look at this!" " I'll
fix it, miss," — &c.
1st November. — A fair wind after a stifling night, and strong
hopes of seeing the Bahama Banks on Sunday. Most people are
now gradually ascending from the lower regions, and dragging
themselves on deck with pale and dejected countenances. Madame
A  has such a sweet-toned voice in speaking, especially in her
accents of her bella Italia, that it is refreshing to listen to her. I
have passed [all day in reading, after a desultory fashion,
" Les Enfans d'Edouard," by Casimir Delavigne, Washington
Irving, DTsraeli's " Curiosities of Literature," &c; and it is rather
singular that while there is a very tolerable supply of English and
French books here, I see but one or two odd volumes in Spanish,
although these packets are constantly filled with people of that
nation, going and coming. It is that they do not care for reading,
or that less attention is paid to them, than to the French or Ame
rican passengers ? One would think Cervantes, Lope de Vega,
Calderon or Moratin, better worth buying than many common
place novels which I find here.
3d. — Yesterday the wind blew soft as on a summer morning. A
land-bird flew into the ship. To-day the wind has veered round,
but the weather continues charming. The sea is covered with mul
titudes of small flying-fish. An infantile water-spout appeared, and
died in its birth. Mr.  , the consul, has been giving me an
account of the agreeable society in the Sandwich Islands ! A mag
nificent sunset, the sight of which compensates for all the incon
veniences of the voyage. The sky was covered with black clouds
fined with silver, and surrounded by every variety of colour; deep
blue, fleecy, rose, violet, and orange. The heavens are now thickly
studded with stars, numbers shooting across the blue expanse like
messengers of fight, glancing and disappearing as if extinguished.
It is well to read the History of Columbus at sea, but especially
in these waters, where he wandered in suspense, high-wrought ex
pectation, and firm faith; and to watch the signs which the noble
mariner observed in these latitudes; the soft serenity of the breezes,
the clear blue of the heavens, the brilliancy and number _ of the
stars, the sea-weeds of the gulf, which always drift in the direction
B 2

4 A SQUALL.
of the wind, the little land-birds that come like harbingers of good
tidings, the frequency of the shooting' stars, and the multitude ot
flying-fish. . . ,
As the shades of evening close around, and the tropical sky
glitters with the light of innumerable stars, imagination transports
us back to that century which stands out in bold relief amidst other
ages rolling by comparatively undistinguished, and we see as m a
vision the Discoverer of a World, standing on the deck of his ca
ravel, as it bounded over the unknown and mysterious waste of
waters, his vigilant eyes fixed on the west, like a Persian mtently
watching the rising of his god; though his star was_ to arise from
whence the day-god sets. We see him bending his gaze on the
first dark line that separated the watery sea from the blue of the
heavens, striving to penetrate the gloom of night, yet waiting with
patient faith until the dawn of day should bring the long-wished
for shores in sight.
6th. — For three days, three very long and uncomfortable days,
the wind, with surprising constancy, has continued to blow dead a-
head. In ancient days, what altars might have smoked to iEolus !
Now, except in the increased puffing of consolatory cigar-smoke, no
propitiatory offerings are made to unseen powers. There are indeed
many mourning signs amongst the passengers. Every one has tied
up his head in an angry -looking silken bandana, drawn over his
nose with a dogged air. Beards are unshaven, a black stubble co
vering the lemon-coloured countenance, which occasionally bears a
look of sulky defiance, as if its owner were, like Juliet, " past hope,
past cure, past help."
7 th. — This morning the monotony of fine weather was relieved by
a hearty squall, accompanied by torrents of rain, much thunder, and
forked hghtning. The ship reeled to and fro like a drunken man, and
the passengers, as usual in such cases, performed various involuntary
evolutions, cutting right angles, sliding, spinning round, and rolling
over, as if Oberon's magic horn were playing an occasional blast
amidst the roaring winds ; whilst the stewards alone, like Horace's
good man, walked serene amidst the wreck of crockery and the fall
of plates. Driven from our strong hold on deck, indiscriminately
crammed in below like figs in a drum; " weltering," as Carlyle has
it, " like an Egyptian pitcher of tamed vipers," the cabin windows
all shut in, we tried to take it coolly, in spite of the suffocating
heat. There is a child on board who is certainly possessed, not by a
witty, malicious demon, a diable boiteux, but by a teasing, stupid,
wicked imp, which inspires him with the desire of tormenting every
thing human that comes within his reach. Should he escape being
thrown overboard, it will show a wonderful degree of forbearance
on the part of the passengers.
8th. — The weather is perfect, but the wind inexorable ; and the
passengers, with their heads tied up, look more gloomy than ever.

OCCUPATIONS ON SHIPBOARD. 5
Some sit dejected in corners, and some quarrel with their neigh
bours, thus finding a safety-valve by which their wrath may es
cape. 9th. — There is no change in the wind, yet the gentlemen have all
brightened up, taken off their headkerchiefs and shaved, as if
ashamed of their six days' impatience, and making up their minds
to a sea-life. This morning we saw land; a long, low ridge of hills
on the Island of Eleuthera, where they make salt, and where there
are many negroes. Neither salt nor negroes visible to the naked
eye ; nothing but the grey outline of the hills, melting into the sea
and sky; and having tacked about all day, we found ourselves in
the evening precisely opposite to this same island. There are Job's
comforters on board, who assure us that they have been thirty-six
days between New York and la " joya mas preciosa de la corona de
Espana."* For my part, I feel no impatience, having rather a dislike to
changing my position when tolerable, and the air is so fresh and
laden with balm, that it seems to blow over some paradise of sweets,
some land of fragrant spices. The sea also is a mirror, and I have
read Marryat's Pirate for the first time.
Thus then we stand at eight o'clock, P. M. ; wind a-head, and
little of it, performing a zig-zag march between Eleuthera and
Abaco. On deck, the pretty widow lies in an easy chair, surrounded
by her countrymen, who discourse about sugar, molasses, chocolate,
and other local topics, together with the relative merits of Cuba as
compared with the rest of the known world. Madame A  is
studying her part of Elizabetta in the opera of Roberto Deve-
reux, which she is to bring out in Havana, but the creaking of the
Norma is sadly at variance with harmony. A pale German youth,
in dressing-gown and slippers, is studying Schiller. An ingenious
youngster is carefully conning a well-thumbed note, which looks
like a milliner's girl's last billet-doux. The little possede is burning
brown-paper within an inch of the curtains of a state-room, while
the steward is dragging it from him. Others are gradually dropping
into their berths, hke ripe nuts from a tree. Thus are we all pur
suing our vocations.
9th. — Wind dead a-head ! I console myself with Cinq-Mars and
Jacob Faithful. But the weather is lovely. A young moon in her
first quarter, like a queen in her minority, glitters hke a crescent on
the brow of night.
Towards evening the long wished for lighthouse of Abaco (built
by the English) showed her charitable and revolving radiance. But
our ship, Penelope-like, undoes by night what she has performed by
day, and her course is backward and crabbish. A delicious smell of
violets is blowing from the land.
10th. — A fair wind. The good tidings communicated by the
* The most precious jewel in the Spanish crown, the name given to Cuba.

6 EVENING IN A TROPICAL SEA.
A  , toute rayonnante dejoie. A fair wind and a'bright blue sea,
cool and. refreshing breezes, the waves sparkling, and the ship going
gallantly over the waters. So far, our voyage may have been te
dious, but the most determined landsman must allow that the wea
ther has been charming.
Sunday at sea; and though no bells are tolling, and no hymns are
chanted, the blue sky above and the blue ocean beneath us, form
one vast temple, where, since the foundations of the earth and sea
were laid, Day unto day uttereth speech, and night unto night showeth
knowledge. This morning we neared the Berry Islands, unproductive and
rocky, as the geography books would say. One of these islands
belongs to a coloured man, who bought it for fifty dollars — a cheaply-
purchased sovereignty. He, his wife and children, with their negro
slaves ! five there, and cultivate vegetables to sell at New York, or
at the different ships that pass that way. Had the wind been fa
vourable, they would probably have sent us out a boat with fresh
vegetables, fish, and fruit, which would have been very acceptable.
We saw, not far from the shore, the wreck of a two-masted vessel ;
sad sight to those who pass over the same waters to see
" A brave vessel,
Who had, no doubt, some noble creatures in her,
Dashed all to pieces !"
Who had, at least, some of God's creatures in her. Any thing but
that ! I am like Gonzalo, and " would fain die a dry death."
We are now on the Bahama Banks, the water very clear and
blue, with a creamy froth, looking as if it flowed over pearls and
turquoises. An English schooner man-of-war (a boy-o£-wax in size)
made all sail towards us, doubtless hoping we were a slaver ; but, on
putting us to the test of his spy-glass, the captain, we presume, per
ceived that the general tinge of countenance was lemon rather than
negro, and so abandoned his pursuit.
This evening on the Banks* It would be difficult to imagine a
more placid 'and lovely scene. Every thing perfectly calm, all sail
set, and the heavens becoming gradually sprinkled with silver stars.
The sky blue, and without a cloud, except where the sun has just
set, the last crimson point sinking in the calm sea and leaving a long
retinue of rainbow-coloured clouds, deep crimson tinged with bright
silver, and melting away into gray, pale vapour.
On goes the vessel, stately and swanlike ; the water of the same
turquoise blue, covered with a light pearly froth, and so clear that
we see the large sponges at the bottom. Every minute they heave
the lead. " By the mark three." " By the mark three, less a
quarter." " By the mark twain and a half," (fifteen feet, the vessel
drawing thirteen,) two feet between us and the bottom. The sailor
sings it out hke the first fine of a hymn in short metre, doled out by
the parish clerk. I wish Madame A  were singing it instead of
he. " By the mark three, less a quarter." To this tune, the only

ARRIVAL AT HAVANA. 7
sound breaking the stillness of the night, I dropped to sleep. The
captain passed the night anxiously, now looking out for fights on
the Banks, now at the helm, or himself sounding the lead :
" For some must watch whilst others sleep ;
Thus wags the world away."
11th. — Beautiful morning, and fair wind. About eight we left
the Banks. Just then we observed, that the sailor who sounded,
having sung out five, then six, then in- a few minutes seven, suddenly
found no bottom, as if we had fallen off all at once from the brink of
the Bank into an abyss.
A fellow-captain, and passenger of our captain's, told me this
morning, that he spoke the ship which carried out Governor and
Mrs. McLean to Cape-Coast Castle — the unfortunate L. E. L. It
does not seem to me at all astonishing that the remedies which she
took in England without injury, should have proved fatal to her in
that wretched climate.
We have been accompanied all the morning by a fine large ship,
going full sail, the Orleans, Captain Sears, bound for New Orleans.
 A iong semicircular line of black rocks in sight; some of
a round form, one of which is called the Death's Head; another of
the shape of a turtle, and some two or three miles long. At the ex
tremity of one of these the English are building a lighthouse.
12th. — We are opposite the Pan of Matanzas, about sixty miles
from Havana. Impatience becomes general, but the brledze rocks up
and down, and we gain little. This day, hke all last days on board,
has been remarkably tedious, though the country gradually becomes
more interesting. There is a universal brushing-up amongst the
passengers ; some shaving, some with their heads plunged into tubs
of cold water. So may have appeared Noah's ark, when the dove
did not return, and the passengers prepared for terra Jirma, after a
forty days' voyage. Our Mount Ararat was the Morro Castle,
which, dark and frowning, presented itself to our eyes, at six
o'clock, p.m.
Nothing can be more striking than the first appearance of this
fortress, starting up from the sohd rock, with its towers and battle
ments, while here, to remind us of our latitude, we see a few feathery
cocoas growing amidst the herbage that covers the banks near the'
castle. By its side, covering a considerable extent of ground, is the
fortress called the Cabana, painted rose-colour, with the angles of its
bastions white.
But there is too much to look at now. I must finish my letter in
Havana. Havana, 13th November.
Last evening, as we entered the beautiful bay, every thing struck
us as strange and picturesque. The soldiers of the garrison, the
prison built by General Tacon, the irregular houses with their fronts
painted red or pale blue, and with the cool but uninhabited look pro-

8 HANDSOME HOUSE IN HAVANA.
duced by the absence of glass windows; the merchant ships and large
men-of-war; vessels from every port in the commercial world, the
httle boats gliding amongst them with their snow-white sails, the
negroes on the wharf— nothing European. The heat was great, that
of a July day, without any freshness in the air.
As we approached the wharf the noise and bustle increased. The
passengers all crowded upon deck, and we had scarcely anchored,
when various little boats were seen making for the Norma. First
boat brought an officer with the salutations of the Captain-General
to his Excellency, with' every polite offer of service; second boat
brought the Administrador of the Yntendente (the Count de Villa
Nueva), with the same civilities; the third, the master of the house
where we now are, and whence I indite these facts; the fourth, the
Italian Opera, which rushed simultaneously into the arms of the
A  i; the fifth, prosaic custom-house officers; the sixth, a Havana
count and marquis; the seventh, the family of General M  o.
Finally, we were hoisted over the ship's side in a chair, into the
government boat, and rowed to the shore. As it was rather dark
when we arrived, and we were driven to our destination in a volante,
we did not see much of the city. We could but observe that the
streets were narrow, the houses irregular, most people black, and the
volante, an amusing-looking vehicle, looking behind hke a black
insect with high shoulders, and with a httle black postihon on a horse
or mule, with an enormous pair of boots and a fancy uniform.
The house in which, by the hospitality of the H  a family we
are installed, has from its windows, which front the bay, the most
varied and interesting view imaginable. As it is the first house,
Spanish fashion, which I have entered, I must describe it to you
before I sleep. The house forms a great square, and you enter the
court, round which are the offices, the rooms for the negroes, coal-
house, bath-room, &c, and in the middle of which stand the volantes.
Proceed up stairs, and enter a large gallery which runs all round the
house. Pass into the Sola, a large cool apartment, with marble
floor and tables, and chaise-longues with elastic cushions, chairs, and
arm-chairs of cane. A drapery of white muslin and blue silk
divides this from a second and smaller drawing-room, now serving as
my dressing-room, and beautifully fitted up, with gothic toilet-
table, inlaid mahogany bureau, marble centre and side-tables, fine
mirrors, cane sofas and chairs, green and gold paper. A drapery of
white muslin and rose-coloured silk divides this from a bedroom,
also fitted up with all manner of elegances. French beds with blue
silk coverlids and clear musquito curtains, and fine lace. A drapery
divides this on one side from the gallery; and this Toom opens into
others which run all round the house. The floors are marble or
stucco — the roofs beams of pale blue wood placed transversely, and
the whole has an air of agreeable coolness. Every thing is handsome
without being gaudy, and admirably adapted for the climate. The
sleeping apartments have no windows, and are dark and cool, while

SIGHTS AND SOUNDS.

the drawing-rooms have large windows down to the floor, with green
shutters, kept closed till the evening.
The mosquitoes have now commenced their evening song, a signal
that it is time to put out the fights. The moon is shining on the
bay, and a faint sound of military music is heard in the distance,
while the sea moans with a sad but not unpleasing monotony. To
all these sounds I retire to rest.

LETTER THE SECOND.
Havana aristocracy — Lucia de Lammermoor — La Rossi and Montresor — Brig
of war — Countess de V  a — Dinner at H  a's — Southerly winds — View
from the balcony — Quinta of Count V  a — San Cristobal — Mass at San
Felipe — Erard Harp — Dinner at General M  o's — A Dessert at Havana —
Queen of Spain's birthday— Dinner at the Yntendencia — La Pantanelli —
Theatre of Tacon — Railroad — Cure by lightning — Shops — Ball at the
Countess F  a's — Last visit — Souvenirs.
15th. — We expected hospitality and a good reception, but cer
tainly all our expectations have been surpassed, and the last few days
have been spent in such a round of festivity, that not a moment has
been left for writing. At home we have held a levee to all that is
most distinguished in Havana. Counts, marquesses, and generals,
with stars and crosses, have poured in and poured out ever since our
arrival. I do not pretend to form any judgment of Havana. We
have seen it too much en beau.
Last evening we found time to go to the theatre. The opera was
" Lucia de Lammermoor." The prima donna, La Rossi, has a voice
of much sweetness, sings correctly and with taste, is graceful in her
movements, but sadly deficient in strength. Still she suits the
character represented, and comes exactly up to my idea of poor
Lucy, devoted and broken-hearted, physically and morally weak.
Though the story is altered, and the interest weakened, how graceful
the music is! how lovely and full of melody! The orchestra is
good, and composed of blacks and whites, like the notes of a piano,
mingled in harmonious confusion.
The theatre is remarkably pretty and airy, and the pit struck us
as being particularly clean and respectable. All the seats are red
leather arm-chairs, and all occupied by well-dressed people.
At the end of the first act, we went round to the Countess
F  a's box, to return a visit which she had made me in the

10 DINNER AT H  -A'S.
morning. We found her extremely agreeable and full of intelli
gence, also with a very decided air of fashion. She was dressed in
fawn-coloured satin, with large pearls. At the end of the second.
act, Lucia was taken ill ; her last aria missed out, and her monu
ment driven on the stage without further ceremony. Montresor,
the Ravenswood of the piece, came in, sung and stabbed_ himself
with immense enthusiasm. It is a pity that his voice is deserting
him, while his taste and feehng remain. The house has altogether
a French look. The boxes are private— that is, the property of
individuals, but are not shut in, which, in this cfimate,_ would be
suffocating. We passed out through a long file of soldiers. The
sudden transition from Yankee land to this military Spanish negro-
land is dreamy.
The General de la Marina (Anglice, admiral of the station) called
some days ago, and informed us that there is a brig of war destined
to convey us to Vera Cruz.
Amongst the ladies who have called on me, I find none more
charming than the Countess de V  a. Her voice is agreeable,
her manners cordial and easy, her expression beautiful from good
ness, with animated eyes and fine teeth, her dress quiet and rich.
She is universally beloved here. I received from her, nearly every
morning, a bouquet of the loveliest flowers from her quinta — roses,
carnations, heliotrope, &c. The dinner at H  a's to-day was a
perfect feast. I sat between the Count de F  a and the Count
de S  V  , a millionaire. Every thing was served in French
white and gold porcelain, which looks particularly cool and pretty
in this climate. The Count deP  r was there and his brother;
the latter a gentlemanly and intelligent man, with a great taste for
music, and whose daughter is a first-rate singer and a charming
person. After dinner we rose, according to custom, and went into
an adjoining room, while they arranged the dessert, consisting of
every imaginable and unimaginable sweetmeat, with fruits, ices,
&c. The fruits I have not yet learnt to like. They are certainly
wonderful and delicious productions of nature ; but to eat eggs and
custards and butter off the trees, seems unnatural.
The heat to-day is terrible, with a suffocating south wind blowing,
and were the houses not built as they are, would be unbearable.
The dinner is served in the gallery, which is spacious and cool.
After dinner, Sefior Don P  o H  a rose, and, addressing
C  n, pronounced a poetical impromptu, commemorating the late
victory of Espartero, and congratulating C  n on his mission to
the Mexican republic. We then adjourned to the balcony, where
the air was delightful, a cool evening breeze having suddenly sprung
up. A large ship, full sail, and various barks, passed the Morro.
There were negroes with bare legs walking on the wall, carrying
parcels, &c. ; volantes passing by with their black-eyed occupants,
in full dress, short sleeves, and flowers in their hair ; well-dressed,
martial-looking Spanish soldiers marching by, and making tolerably

DINNER AT GENERAL M  O'S. 11
free remarks upon the ladies in the volantes  We had a visit
from the Captain-General.
In the evening we went out to see the Countess de V  a, at
her pretty quinta, a short way out of town, and walked in the
garden by moonlight, amongst flowers and fountains. The little
count is already one of the chamberlains to the Queen, and a diamond
key has been sent him by Queen Cristina in token of her appro
bation of his father's services. These country retreats are delightful
after the narrow streets and impure air of the city  We saw
there a good engraving of Queen Victoria, with the Duchess of
Sutherland and Lady Normanby.
17th. — Yesterday we went to see the procession of the patron
saint, San Cristobal, from the balconies of the Yntendencia. It is
a fine, spacious building, and, together with the Captain-General's
palace, stands in the Plaza de Armas, which was crowded with
negroes and negresses, all dressed in white, with white muslin and
blonde mantillas, framing and showing off their dusky physiog
nomies. Two regimeats, with excellent bands of music, conducted the
procession, composed of monks and priests. San Cristobal, a large .
figure with thick gold legs, surrounded by gold angels with gold
wings, was carried by to the music of " Suoni latromba" to which
were adapted the words of a hymn in praise of Liberty.
We attended mass in the morning in the church of San Felipe,-
and entered, preceded, according to custom, by a little negro foot
man carrying a piece of carpet. There were few people in church,
but the grouping was picturesque. The black faces of the negresses,
with their white mantillas and white satin shoes ; the black silk
dresses and black lace mantillas of the Havana ladies, with their
white faces and black eyes, and httle liveried negroes standing be
hind them ; the officers, music, and long-bearded priests — aU were
very effective.
Found, on my return, an excellent Erard harp, sent me by the
Marquesa de A  s, a pretty woman and female Croesus.
A splendid entertainment was given us to-day by General
M  o. His house is large and cool ; the dinner, as usual, in the
gallery ; and although there were ninety-seven guests, and as many
negroes in waiting, the heat was not oppressive. The jewels of the
ladles were superb, especially the diamonds of the M  family ;
sprays, necklaces, earrings, really beautiful. The Marquesa de
A  wore a set of emeralds the size of small eggs. She had a
pretty, graceful-looking daughter with her, with beautiful eyes.
Even the men were well sprinkled with diamonds and rubies.
The dessert, from variety and quantity, was a real curiosity.
Immense vases and candelabras of alabaster were placed at different
distances on the table, and hundreds of porcelain dishes were filled
with sweetmeats and fruits — sweetmeats of every description, from

12 THEATRE OF TACON.
the httle meringue called "mouthful for a queen," to the blancmanger
made of supreme de volaille and milk.
After dinner our health was drank, and another poetical address
pronounced. The evening concluded with music and the Havana
country-dances. 20th. — Yesterday being the Queen of Spain's birthday, a dinner
was given to us at the Yntendencia. The house in size is a palace,
and the apartments innumerable. The dinner very elegant, and the
dessert arranged in another room, a curiosity as usual for profusion
and variety. Her Majesty's health was proposed by Don B  o
H  a, and so well-timed, that all the guns of the forts fired a
salute, it being sunset, just as the toast was concluded, which was
drank with real enthusiasm and hearty good-will. According to
Spanish custom, the aristocracy generally se tutoient, and call each
other by their Christian names ; indeed, they are almost ah connected
by intermarriages. You may guess at an inferior in rank, only by
their increased respect towards him.
We stood on the balcony in the evening. The scene was beau
tiful, the temperature rather warm, yet deficious from the softness of
the breeze. The moon rose so bright that she seemed hke the sun
shining through a silvery veil. Groups of figures were sauntering
about in the square, under the trees, and two bands having stationed
themselves with lamps and music, played alternately pieces from
Mozart and Bellini. We regretted leaving so delightful a scene for
the theatre, where we arrived in time to hear La Pantanelli sing an
Aria, dressed in helmet and tunic, and to see La Jota Arragonesa
danced by two handsome Spanish girls in good style.
One evening we went to the theatre of Tacon, to the Captain-
General's box. It is certainly a splendid house, large, airy, and
handsome. The play was the " Campanero de San Pablo," which
though generally liked, appears to me a complicated and unnatural
composition, with one or two interesting scenes. The best actor
was he who represented the blind man. The chief actress is an over
grown dame, all fat and dimples, who kept up a constant sobbing
and heaving of her chest, yet never getting rid of an eternal smirk
upon her face. A bolero, danced afterwards by two Spanish dam
sels in black and silver, was very refreshing.
23d. — To-morrow we sail in the Jason, should the wind not
prove contrary. Visits, dinners, and parties have so occupied our
time, that to write has been next to impossible. Of the country we
have, from the same reason, seen little, and the people we are only
acquainted with in full dress, which is not the way to judge of them
truly. One morning, indeed, we dedicated to viewing the works of
the Yntendente, the railroad, and the water-filterers. He and the
Countess, and a party of friends, accompanied us.
The country through which the railroad passes is flat and rather
monotonous ; nevertheless, the quantity of wild flowers, which ap-

BALL AT THE COUNTESS F  A'S. 13
peared for the most part of the convolvulus species, as we glanced
past them — the orange-trees, the clumps of palm and cocoa, the
plantain with its gigantic leaves, the fresh green coffee-plant,
the fields of sugar-cane of a still brighter green, the half-naked
negroes, the low wooden huts, and, still more, the scorching sun in
the month of November, — all was new to us, and sufficient to remind
us of the leagues of ocean we had traversed, though this is but a
halt on our voyage.
At the village where the cars stopped, we listened with much
amusement to the story of a fat, comfortable-looking individual, who
was cured by lightning in the following manner. He was in the
last stage of a decline, when, one hot July morning, he was knocked
down by a thunderbolt, a ball of fire, which entered his side, ran all
through his body, and came out at his arm. At the place where the
ball made its exit, a large ulcer was formed, and when iti dispersed
he found himself in perfect health, in which he has continued ever
since! In such cases the " bottled hghtning," demanded by Mrs.
Nickleby's admirer, might be a valuable remedy.
Of course, I could not leave Havana without devoting one morn
ing to shopping. The shops have most seducing names — Hope,
Wonder, Desire,. &c. The French modistes seem to be wisely im
proving their time, by charging respectable prices for their work.
The shopkeepers bring their goods out to the volante, it not being
the fashion for ladies to enter the shops, though I took the privilege
of a foreigner to infringe this rule occasionally. Silks and satins
very dear— '•lace and muslin very reasonable, was, upon the whole,
the result of my investigation ; but as it only lasted two hours, and
that my sole purchases of any consequence were an indispensable
mantilla, and a pair of earrings, I give my opinion for the present
with due diffidence.
I can speak with more decision on the subject of a great ball
given us by the Countess F  a, last evening, which was really
superb. The whole house was thrown open — there was a splendid
supper, quantities of refreshments, and the whole select aristocracy
of Havana. Diamonds on all the women, jewels and orders on all
the men, magnificent lustres and mirrors, and a capital band of music
in the gallery.
The Captain-General was the only individual in a plain dress. He
made himself very agreeable, in good French. About one hundred
couple stood up in each country -dance, but the rooms are so large
and so judiciously hghted, that we did not feel at ah warm. Waltzes,
quadrilles, and these long Spanish dances, succeeded each other.
Almost all the girls have fine eyes and beautiful figures, but without
colour, or much animation. The finest diamonds were those of the
Countess F  a, particularly her necklace, which was undeniable.
Walking through the rooms after supper, we were amused to see
the negroes and negresses helping themselves plentifully to the
sweatmeats, uncorking and drinking fresh bottles of Champagne,

14 v SOUVENIRS.
and devouring every thing on the supper tables, without the slightest
concern for the presence either of their master or mistress ; in fact,
behaving hke a multitude of spoilt children, who are sure of meet
ing with indulgence, and presume upon it. * * *
Towards morning we were led down stairs to a large suite of
rooms, containing a library of several thousand volumes ; where cof
fee, cakes, &c, were prepared in beautiful Sevres porcelain and
gold plate. We left the house, at last, to the music of the national
hymn of Spain, which struck up as we past through the gallery.
Should the north wind, the dreaded Norte, not blow, we sail to
morrow, and have spent the day in receiving fareweh visits. We
also went to the theatre, where every one predicts we shall not get
off to-morrow. The play was " Le Gamin de Paris," translated.
After our return, I paid a very late visit to the P  r family, who
live close by us, and now, at two in the morning, I finish my letter
sleepily. Many beautiful souvenirs have been sent us, and amongst
others, the Count de S  V  has just sent C—  n a model
of the palace of Madrid, one of the most beautiful and ingenious
pieces of workmanship possible. It is carved in wood, with asto
nishing accuracy and delicacy.
My next letter will be dated on board the Jason.

LETTER THE THIRD.
Departure in the Jason — Spanish Captain and Officers — Life on board a Man-
of-War— " Balances" — Fishing — " Le petit tambour" — Cocoa-nuts — A Norte
— Spanish proverb — Peak of Orizava — Theory and practice — Norte chocola-
tero — Contrary winds — Chain of Mountains — Goleta. Jason, 24th November.
This morning, at six o'clock, we breakfasted, together with Captain
Estrada, the commander of the Jason, at the Casa H  a ; and the
wind being fair, repaired shortly after in volantes to the wharf, ac
companied by our hospitable host, and several of our acquaintances-
entered the boat, looked our last of the Palace and the Yntendencia'
and of Havana itself, where we had arrived as strangers, and which
now, in fifteen days, had begun to assume a familiar aspect, and to
appear interesting in our eyes, by the mere force of human sympathy ;
and were transported to the ship, where a line of marines, drawn up

" LE PETIT TAMBOUR." ' 15
to receive us, presented arms as we entered. The morning was beau
tiful; httle wind, but fair. We took leave of our friends, waved
our handkerchiefs to the balconies in return for signals from
scarcely-distinguishable figures, passed beneath the red-tinted Ca
bana and the stately Morro, and were once more upon the deep,
with a remembrance behind, and a hope before us. Our Bergantina
is a handsome vessel, with twenty-five guns, five officers, a doctor,
chaplain, and purser, and one hundred and fifty men.
We find the commander very attentive, and a perfect gentleman,
like almost all of his class, and though very young in appearance,
he has been twenty-nine years in the service.
25th. — The weather dehghtful, and the ship going at the rate of
five knots an hour. The accommodations in a brig not destined for
passengers are of course limited. There is a large cabin for the
officers, separated by a smaller one, belonging to the captain, which
he has given up to us.
At seven o'clock C  n rises, and at eight, a marine sentinel,
transformed into a lady's page, whom we are taking to Mexico as
Porter, brings us some very deficious chocolate. He is followed by
the Captain's familiar, an unhappy-looking individual, pale, lank,
and lean, with the physiognomy of a methodist parson, and in
general appearance like a weed that has grown up in one night.
He tremblingly, and with most rueful countenance, carries a small
plate of sugar-biscuits. These originals having vacated the cabin, I
proceed to dress, an operation of some difficulty, which being per
formed tant Men que mal, I repair up stairs, armed with book and
fan and sit on deck till ten o'clock, when the famihar's lamentable an
nouncement of breakfast, takes us down again. The cook being '
French, the comestibles are decidedly good, andrwere the artist a little
less of an oil and more of a water painter, I individually would
prefer his style. We have every variety of fish, meat, fowl, fruit,
dulces and wines.
A very long interval has to be filled up by reading, writing,
sitting, or walking upon deck, as suits the taste of the individual, or
by drinking orangeade, or by sleeping, or by any_ other ingenious
resource for killing time. At five, dinner, at which no one joins
us but the captain and one officer ; and after dinner on deck till
bedtime, walking about, or gazing on the sky or sea, or listening
to the songs of the sailors.
26th. — Little wind, but a day of such abominably cruel " ba
lances" as they call them, that one is tempted to find rest by
jumping overboard. Every thing broken or breaking. Even the
cannons disgorge their balls, which fall out by their own weight.
28th.— We have had . two days of perfect weather though very
warm ; the sky blue, without one cloud. To-day we are on the
sound, and have lain to, about noon, to let the sailors fish, thereby
losing an hour or so of fair wind, and catching a preposterous
number of fish of immense size. The water was so clear, that we

16 A SOUTH WIND.
could see the fish rush and seize the bait as fast as it was thrown m.
Sometimes a huge shark would bite the fish in two, so that the poor
finny creature was between Scylla and Charybdis. These fish are
called cherne andpargo, and at dinner were pronounced good. At
length a shark, in its wholesale greediness, seized the bait, and feel
ing the hook in his horrid jaw, tugged most fiercely to release him
self, but in vain. Twelve sailors hauled him in, when, with dis
tended jaws, he seemed to look out for the legs of the men, where
upon they rammed the butt-end of a harpoon down his throat,
which put a stop to all further proceedings on his part. He was
said to be quite young, perhaps the child of doting parents. The
juvenile monster had, however, already cut three rows of teeth.
We are sometimes amused in the evening, when upon deck, by a
little drummer, who invariably collects ah the sailors round him,
and spins them long, endless stories of his own invention, to which
they listen with intense interest. On he goes, without a moment's
hesitation, inventing eveiy thing most improbable and wonderful ;
of knights and giants and beautiful princesses, and imprisoned
damsels, and poor peasants becoming great kings. He is a little
ugly, active fellow, with a turned-up nose, a merry eye and a laugh
ing mouth. Amongst his axioms is the fohowing verse, which he
sings with great expression. Hasta los palos del monte
Tienen su destinacion
Unos nacen para santos
Y otros para liacer carbon.
which may be translated so :
Even the mountain-trees
Have their allotted goal,
For some are born for saints
Whilst others serve for coal.
29th. — Beautiful day, fair wind, great heat, and more fishino-. At
least thirty large fish were caught this morning, also an infant shark,
a grandchild who had wandered forth to nibble, and met an un
timely grave. We have seen several alacrans or scorpions on board
but these are said not to be poisonous. The ship is the perfection
of cleanness. No disagreeable odour affects the olfactory nerves, in
which it has a singular advantage over all packets. This, and
having it ah to ourselves, and the officers being such perfect gentle
men and all so kind and attentive, makes our voyage so far a mere
pleasure trip.
We had some of the Countess de V  's cocoa-nuts, of which
she sent us a great supply, pierced this morning, each containing
three tumblers of fresh and delicious water.
1st December. — We are now about thirty leagues from Vera-
Cruz, and if the wind blows a httle fresher, may reach it to
morrow. Thisis Sunday, but the chaplain is too sick to say mass
and the heat is intense. '

A NORTHER. 17
2d. — An unpleasant variety-^-a Norte! I knew it was coming
on, only by the face of the first lieutenant when he looked at the
barometer. His countenance fell as many degrees as the instrument.
It is very slight, but our entry into port wiU be delayed, for, on the
coast, these winds are most devoutly dreaded. It has rained all day,
and, notwithstanding the rolling of the ship, we attempted a game at
chess, but after having tried two games, abandoned it in despair, a
" balance" having, at the most interesting period of each, overturned
the board, and left the victory undecided, somewhat after the fashion
of Homer's goddess, when she enveloped the contending armies in
a cloud. 4th. — Yesterday evening a south wind, and the Spanish proverb
says truly " Sur duro,
Norte seguro."
" A south wind strong,
The norther ere long."
This morning the sky is covered with watery clouds, yet we can
see the Cofre de Perote and the peak of Orizava, which are thirty
leagues inland ! The latter, called by the Mexicans, Citlal Tepetl,
or the mountain of the star, from the fire which used to burn on its
lofty summit, rises nineteen thousand five hundred and fifty-one
feet above the level of the sea. Covered with perpetual snows, and
rising far above clouds and tempests, it is the first mountain which
the navigator discovers as he approaches these shores.
But the south wind continues and we are obliged to turn our
back to the coast. There is much impatience on board. A 
was taken iU, and declared she had got the yellow fever. The
doctor was sent for, who, very sick himself, and holding by the
table to keep himself from falling, told her, without looking at
her very particularly, that there was nothing the matter, only to
keep herself " quite quiet and still;" and the ship rolling at the same
moment, he pitched head-foremost out of the cabin, showing prac
tically how much easier precept is than example. As we shall no
doubt have a norther after this, which may last three days, our pro
mised land is still at some distance.
5th. — The weather is charming, but the south-west wind holds
most implacably, and the barometer has fallen five or six degrees,
which, added to other signs of the times known to navigators, causes
all hands to prepare for the dreaded enemy.
6th. — Job never was on board a ship. A norther, not a very
severe one, but what they call a Norte chocolatero, that is, its shock
tore a sail in two, as I tear this sheet of paper. The most ingenious
person I see is the " master of the sails." He sews most excessively
quick and well. Towards evening the wind calmed, but the ship,
tossed upon a horribly swelled sea, became a mortal purgatory. Still
the wind is lulled, though Humboldt and others say that a Norte
c

18 BEAUTIFUL WEATHER.
must last forty-eight hours, and we have only had it for twenty-
four. We shall see. . .
7th.— A most horrible night ! My hammock, which I bad
foohshly preferred to a bed, not having room to swing in, threw me
furiously against the wall, till fearing a broken head, I jumped out
and lay on the floor. To-day there is a comparative calm, a faint
continuation of the Norte, which is an air with variations. Every
thing now seems melancholy and monotonous. We have been
tossed about during four days in sight of Vera Cruz, and are now
further from it than before. The officers begin to look miserable ;
even the cook with difficulty preserves his equilibrium.
Sunday, 8th. — A Norte ! The sky is watery, and covered with
shapeless masses of reddish clouds. This is a great day amongst all
Spanish Catholics, Le Virgen de la Concepcion, the patroness of
Spain and the Indies ; but no mass to-day ; the padre sick and the
Norte blowing. What a succession of long faces — walking baro
meters !
9th — Yesterday evening the wind held out false hopes, and every
one brightened up with caution, for the wind, though faintly, blew
from the right quarter. The rain ceased, the weather cleared, and
" hope, the charmer," smiled upon us. The greater was our disap
pointment when the breeze died away, when the wind veered to the
north, and when once more the most horrible rolling seized the un
fortunate Jason, as if it were possessed by a demon. Finding it
impossible to he in my hammock, I stretched myself on the floor,
where, during a night that seemed interminable, we were tossed up
and down, knocked against the furniture, and otherwise mal
treated. This morning there is httle wind, but that little from the north,
so that the termination of our voyage appears as far off now as it did
eight days ago. The faces of aU on board are calmly lugubrious.
Little said. A few Spanish shrugs interchanged with ominous
significance. 10th. — As there is only one particular wind during which it is
not dangerous to approach the coast, namely, " la brisa" the breeze
which usually follows the norther, we may spend our Christmas
here. The weather is beautiful, though very sultry, especially
during the calms which intervene between the nortes. With books
one might take patience, but I have read and re-read backwards and
forwards every thing I possess, or can find — reviews, magazines, a
volume of Humboldt, even an odd volume of the " Barber of Paris"
— " Turkish Letters," purporting to be the translation of a continu
ation of Montesquieu's Lettres Persanes, and in which the hero,
disguised as a gardener, brings the Visier's daughter a bouquet,
-which she condescendingly receives, lying in bed a l'Espagnole ! I
am now reduced to a very serious Spanish work on the truth of
Christianity.

GOLETA. 19
This evening, to the joy of all on board, arose the long-desired
breeze. The ship went slowly and steadily on her course, at first
four, then eight knots an hour. The captain, however, looked
doubtingly, and, indeed, towards morning, the wind changed to the
south, and our hopes died away.
11th. — Contrary wind. A south, expected to be followed by a
" norte seguro." But now, at eleven, A. M., it is quite calm, and
very sultry, whilst to increase, if possible, our weariness, a long
range of lofty mountains stretches along the horizon, from Punta
Delgada to the Cofre de Perote, and on till they seem to sink in the
ocean. Behind the Cofre rises Orizava, now hke a white cloud,
but this morning tinged with a rosy light by the rays of the rising
sun. The sea is tranquil and the horizon clear, nevertheless the
enemy is looked for. There are a few white and feathery clouds
flickering about in the sky, and there is an uneasy swell in the
waves  At three o'clock, out burst the norther, which, hke the
flaming sword, guarding the issues of paradise,
" Waved over by that flaming brand, the gate
With dreadful faces throng'd and fiery arms,"
seems to warn off all vessels from approaching these iron-bound
shores. Eleven days within a few hours' distance of the coast !
16th. — Five days more passed with a continuation of contrary
winds and constant rolling. ¦ We are further from hope than we
were fourteen days ago. Captain, officers, sailors, all seem nearly
disheartened. This morning they caught the most beautiful fish I
ever beheld, of the dolphin species — the Cleopatra of the ocean,
about four feet long, apparently entirely composed of gold, and
studded with turquoises. It changed colour in dying. There is a
proverb, which the sailors are repeating to each other, not very
encouraging: " Este es el viage del Orinoco. Que el que no se
murio, se volvi6 loco." " This is the voyage of the Orinoco, in
which he who did not die, became crazy."
17th. — Spoke a goleta, which came close up by our vessel, and
-seemed to have a miserable set on board, amongst others, a worthy
pair from Havana, who have just come out of prison, having been
accused of murdering a negro. The wind continues contrary. I
shah fold up this sea-scrawl, and write no more till we reach Vera
Cruz.

C2

20

LETTER THE FOURTH.
Distant View of Vera Cruz— Pilots— Boat from the City— Mutual Salutes —
Approach to Vera Cruz — Crowd on the wharf— House of Dionisio V  o —
Guard of Honour— German Piano— Supper — Madonna — Aspect of the City
SopUotes — Deliberations — General Guadalupe Victoria — Two-headed Eagle
—Dilapidated Saint— Harp— Theatre— Donna Inocencia Martinez— Invi
tation from General Santa Anna. Vera Cbuz, 18th.
Thts morning, the sanguine hoped and the desponding feared, for
the wind, though inclining to la brisa, seemed unlikely to prove
sufficiently strong to enable us to reach Vera Cruz — this being the
twenty-fifth day since we left Havana ; a voyage that, with a
steamer, might be performed in three days, and with a sailing-vessel
and a fair wind, is made in six or seven. About noon, the aspect
of things became more favourable. The breeze grew stronger, and
with it our hopes.
At last appeared in view, faintly, certain spires beside the low
sandy land, which for some time we had anxiously watched, and at
length we could distinguish houses and churches, and the fort
of San Juan de Ulua, of warhke memory. By slow but sure
degrees, we neared the shore, until Vera Cruz, in all its ugliness,
became visible to our much-wearied eyes. We had brought a pilot
from Havana to guide us to these dangerous coasts, but though a
native of these parts, it seemed that a lapse of years had blunted his
memory, for we had nearly run upon the rocks. A gun was there
fore fired, and another pilot came out, who at sight of the Spanish
flag waxed enthusiastic, and pointing out the castle to our ignorant
friend, exclaimed, alluding to the desperate struggle made by the
Spaniards to defend this their last stronghold at the end of the war,
" We, although but a handful of men, defended ourselves for. years
like soldiers, and now these Frenchmen took it in three days !" and,
walking about in a transport of patriotic despair, he seemed to forget
his actual duty in the tide of remembrances which the sight of
Spanish colours and a Spanish crew had called forth.
Any thing more melancholy, delabre and forlorn, than the whole
appearance of things as we drew near, cannot well be imagined. On
one side, the fort, with its black and red walls : on the other, the
miserable, black-looking city, with hordes of large black birds, called
sopilotes, hovering over some dead carcass or flying heavily along in
search of carrion. Still, as the goal of our voyage, even its dreary
aspect was welcome, and the very hills of red sand by which it is

CROWD ON THE WHARF. 21
surrounded, and which look like the deserts of Arabia, appeared
inviting. _ A boat, full of cocked hats was now seen approaching from the
city, containing the Consul in full uniform, and other authorities.
C  n having sent for and obtained permission from the Governor,
to permit the Jason, contrary to estabhshed usages, to anchor
beneath the castle, a salute of twenty guns was fired from our ship.
Being upon deck, I was nearly suffocated with smoke and powder.
A salute of the same number of cannon was then fired from the
castle, in honour of the first Spanish man-of-war that has appeared in
this port since the Revolution.
And now we prepared, before the sun went down, to leave our
watery prison; and the captain's boat being manned, and having
taken leave of the officers, we, that is, C  n, the commander, and
I, and my French maid and her French poodle, got into it. Then
came a salute of twenty guns from the Jason in our honour, and we
rowed off amidst clouds of smoke. Then the fort gave us welcome
with the same number of guns, and, amidst all this cannonading, we
were landed at the wharf.
A singular spectacle the wharf presented. A crowd, as far as
the eye could reach, of all ages and sexes of Vera Cruzians (and a
very curious set they seemed to be), were assembled to witness his
Excellency's arrival. Some had no pantaloons ; and others, to
make up for their neighbours' deficiencies, had two pair — the upper
slit up the side of the leg, Mexican fashion. All had large hats,
with silver or bead rolls, and every tinge of dark complexion, from
the pure Indian, upwards. Some dresses were entirely composed of
rags, clinging together by the attraction of cohesion ; others had
only a few holes to let in the air. All were crowding, jostling, and
nearly throwing each other into the water, and gazing with faces of
intense curiosity.
But a plume of coloured feathers was seen towering above the
copper-coloured crowd, and immediate passage was made for an
aide-de-camp from the Governor, General Guadalupe Victoria. He
was an immensely tall man, in a showy uniform all covered with
gold, with colossal epaulets and a towering plume of rainbow^
coloured feathers. He brought to C  n the welcome and con
gratulations of the General, and those Spanish offers of service and
devotion which sound agreeably, whatever be their true value.
We now began to move through the crowd, which formed a
line on either side to let us pass, and entered the streets of Vera
Cruz, which were crowded, balconies and all, and even roofs, with
curious faces. The guard formed as we passed, and struck up a
march. The principal street is wide and clean, and we reached the
house of Senor V  o, a rich merchant, formerly consul, where
we are to reside, followed to the door by the whole population.
We were received with great hospitality, and found excellent rooms

22 ASPECT OF THE CITY.
prepared for us. The house is immensely large and airy, built in a
square as they all are, but with that unfurnished, melancholy^ look,
which as yet this style of house has to me, though admirably
adapted to the climate.
A guard of honour, sent by General Victoria, trotted into the
courtyard, whose attendance C  n dechned with thanks, observ
ing that his mission had for object to terminate the coolness hitherto
existing between two families of brothers ; that between members
of the same family there was nothing to fear, and all compliments,
were unnecessary.
I found a German piano in the drawing-room, on which I was
glad to put my fingers after a month's abstinence. A number of
gentlemen came in the evening to visit C  n. We were re
ceived by this family with so much real kindness, that we soon found
ourselves perfectly at home. We had a plentiful supper — fish,
meat, wine, and chocolate, fruit and sweetmeats ; the cookery,
Spanish Vera- Cruzified. A taste of the style was enough for me,
garhc and oil enveloping meat, fish and fowl, with pimentos and
plantains, and ah kinds of curious fruit, which I cannot yet endure.
Bed was not unwelcome, and most confortable beds we had, with
mosquito curtains, and sheets and pillows all trimmed with rich lace,
so universal in Spanish houses, that it is not, as with us, a luxury.
But the mosquitoes had entered in some unguarded moment, and
they and the heat were inimical to sleep.
19th. — I opened my eyes this morning on the painting of a very
lovely Madonna, which hung unvalued and ill-framed, in one
corner of the apartment. At eight, rose and dressed, and went to
breakfast. Here, when there are two guests whom they wish to
distinguish, the gentleman is placed at the head of the table, and
his lady beside him.
To me nothing can exceed the sadness of the aspect of this city
and of its environs — mountains of moving sand, formed by the
violence of the north winds, and which, by the reflection of the
sun's rays, must greatly increase the suffocating heat of the atmo
sphere. The scene may resemble the ruins of Jerusalem, though
without its sublimity. The houses seem blackened by fire ; there
is not a carriage on the streets — nothing but the men with the wide
trousers sht up the side of the leg, immense hats, and blankets, or
sarapes, merely a closed blanket, more or less fine, with a hole
for the head to go through ; and. the women with rebosos, long
coloured cotton scarfs, or pieces of ragged stuff, thrown over the head
and crossing over the left shoulder. Add to this, the sopilotes cleaning
the streets, disgusting, but useful scavengers. These valuable birds?
haveblack feathers, withgrayheads, beaks, and feet They fly in troops,
and at night perch upon the trees. They are not republican, nor do
they appear inclined to declare their independence, having kino-s,
to whom it is said they pay so much respect, that if one of the

GENERAL GUADALUPE VICTORIA. 23
royal species arrives at the same time with a plebeian sopilote, in sight
of a dead body, the latter humbly waits tiU the sovereign has
devoured his share, before he ventures to approach.
A few ladies in black gowns and mantillas called this morning,
and various men. We find the weather sultry. In summer, with
greater heat and the addition of the vomito, it must be a chosen
city ! The principal street, where we live, is very long and Avide,
and seems to have many good houses in it. Nearly opposite is one
which seems particularly well kept and handsome, and where we
saw beautiful flowers as we passed. I find it belongs to an Eng
lish merchant.
There is much dehberation as to the mode in which we are to
travel to Mexico. Some propose a coach, others a litera; others
advise us to take the diligence. While in this indecision, we had
a visit this morning from a remarkable-looking character, Don
Miguel S  , agent for the diligence office in Mexico, a tall,
dark, energetic-looking person. He recommends the diligence,
and offers, by accompanying us, to ensure our safety from accidents.
He appears right. The diligence goes in four days, if it does not
break down. The coach takes any time we choose over that ; the
literas nine or ten days, going slowly on mules with a sedan-
chair motion. The diligence has food and beds provided for it at
the inns — the others nothing. I am in favour of the diligence.
The couple from Havana, whom we passed in the goleta, have
very coolly requested permission to accompany us to Mexico, "under
the protection of the Embajador de Espana." We should set off
in select company.
C  n called, this morning on General Victoria. Found his
excellency in a large hah without furniture or ornament of any
sort, without even chairs, and altogether in a style of more than
repubhcan simphcity. He has just returned the visit, accompanied
by his colossal aide-de-camp.
General Guadalupe Victoria is perhaps the last man in a crowd
whom one would fix upon as being the owner of the above high-
sounding cognomen, which in fact is not his original, but his
assumed name, Guadalupe being adopted by him in honour of the
renowned image of the virgin of that name, and Victoria, with less
humility, to commemorate his success in battle. He is an honest,
plain, down-looking citizen, lame and tall, somewhat at a loss for
conversation, apparently, amiable and good-natured, but certainly
neither courtier nor orator ; a man of undeniable bravery, capable
of supporting almost incredible hardships, humane, and who has
always proved himself a sincere lover of what he considered hberty,
without ever having been actuated by ambitious or interested mo
tives. It is said that his defects were indolence, want of resolution, and
too much reliance on his own knowledge. He is the only Mexican
president who finished as chief magistrate, the term prescribed by

24 CITY OF VERA CRUZ.
the laws. It is alleged, in proof of his simphcity, though I think
it is too absurd to be true, that having received a despatch with the
two-headed eagle on the seal, he remarked to the astonished envoy
who delivered it — " Our arms are very much alike, only I see that
his majesty's eagles have two heads. I have heard that some of
that species exist here, in tierra caliente, and shall have one sent
for." The general is not married, but appears rather desirous _ of enter
ing the united state. He strongly recommends us to avoid broken
bones by going in literas, at least as far as Jalapa. Having stumbled
about for some time in search of his cocked-hat, it was handed to
him by his aide-de-camp, and he took leave.
We walked out in the evening to take a look of the environs,
with Sefior V  o, the commander of the Jason, and several
young ladies of the house. We walked in the direction of an old
church, where it is or was the custom for young ladies desirous of
being married to throw a stone at the saint, their fortune depending
upon the stone's hitting him, so that he is in a lapidated and dila
pidated condition. Such environs ! the surrounding houses black
with smoke of powder or with fire— a view of bare red sandhills all
round — not a tree, or shrub, or flower, or bird, except the horrid
black sopilote, or police-officer. All looks as if the prophet Jere
miah had passed through the city denouncing wo to the dwellers
thereof. Such a melancholy, wholly deserted-looking burial-ground
as we saw !
War and revolutions have no doubt done their work, yet I find
difficulty in believing those who speak of Vera Cruz as having been
a gay and delightful residence in former days, though even now,
those who have resided here for any length of time, even foreigners,
almost invariably become attached to it; and as for those born here,
they are the truest of patriots, holding up Vera Cruz as superior to
all other parts of the world.
The city was founded by the Viceroy, Count de Monterey, at the
end of the seventeenth century, and ought not to be confounded, as
it sometimes is, with either of the two colonies founded by the first
Spaniards. Built in front of the island of San Juan de Ulua, it has
one interesting recollection attached to it, since on these same arid
shores, Cortes disembarked more than three centuries ago. Unhke
the green and fertile coast which gladdened the eyes of Columbus,
the Spanish conqueror beheld a bleak and burning desert, whose
cheerless aspect might well have deterred a feebler mind from going
further in search of the paradise that existed behind.
We returned to the house, and heard some ladies play upon a
harp, so called, a small, hght instrument in that form, but without
pedals, so light, that they can lift it with one hand ; and yet the
music they bring from it is surprising ; one air after another, a httle
monotonously, but with great ease and a certain execution, and with
the additional merit of being self-taught.

INVITATION FROM SANTA ANNA. 25
I imagine that there must be a great deal of musical taste thrown
away here. There are pianos in almost every house, and one lady,
who came to see me to-day, and whose mother was English, had
been extremely well taught, and played with great taste. They at
tempted dancing, but having no masters, can only learn by what
they hear. On the balcony this evening, it was delightful, and the
moon is a universal beautifier.
21st. — We walked about the city yesterday, and returned visits.
The streets are clean, and some few churches tolerably handsome.
The Comicos came in the morning to offer us the centre box in
the theatre, it being the benefit night of Doiia Inocencia Martinez
from Madrid, a favourite of the pubhc, and, in fact, a pretty wo
man, and good comic actress. The theatre is small, and, they say,
generally deserted, but last night it was crowded. The drop-scene
represents the fine arts, who are so fat, that their condition here
must be flourishing. We were, however, agreeably disappointed
in the performance, which was the " Segunda Dama Duende,"
nearly a translation from the " Domino jNoir," and very amusing ;
full of excellent coups-de-thidtre. Dona Inocencia in her various
characters, as domino, servant-girl, abbess, &c, was very handsome,
and acted with great spirit. Moreover, she and her sister, with two
Spaniards, danced the Jota Aragonesa in perfection, so that we spent
a pleasant evening, upon the whole, within the precincts of the city
of the True Cross.
To-morrow is the day fixed for our departure, and we shah not be
sorry to leave this place, although this house is excellent, a whole
suite of rooms given to us, and neither ceremony nor g£ne of any
Sort. The weather is certainly beautiful. The heat may be a httle
oppressive in the middle of the day, but the evenings are cool and
dehghtful. We had a visit yesterday from the Enghsh and French consuls.
M. de  prophesies broken arms and dislodged teeth, if we
persist in our plan of taking the diligence, but ah things balanced,
we think it preferable to every other conveyance. General Victoria
returned to see us this morning, and was very civil and amiable,
offering very cordially every service and assistance in his power.
We are to rise to-morrow at two, being invited to breakfast with
General Santa Anna, at his country-seat Manga de Clavo, a few
leagues from this.
We have been sitting on the balcony till very late, enjoying the
moonlight and refreshing breeze from the sea, and as we rise before
daybreak, our rest will be but short.

26

LETTER THE FIFTH.
Departure from Vera Cruz — Sandhills — Oriental scene — Manga de Clavo —
General Santa Anna — Breakfast— Escort and diligence— Santa Fe— Puente
Nacional — Bridge sketched by Mrs. Ward — Country in December— Don
Miguel — First impressions — Fruit — Plan del Rio — German musicians —
Sleeping Captain — Approach to Jalapa — Appearance of the City — Cofre de
Perote — Flowers — House and rock — Last view of Jalapa — Change of scenery
— San Miguel de los Soldados — Perote — Striking scene before daybreak —
Non-arrival of escort — Yankee coachman — Dispute — Departure — Company
of Lancers — Alcalde — Breakfast at La Ventilla — Pulque — Double escort —
Crosses — Brigand-looking tavern-keeper — Ojo de Agua — Arrival at Puebla
— Dress of the peasants — Christmas-eve — Inn — " Nacimiento" Jalapa, 23d December.
Yesterday morning at two o'clock we rose by candlelight, with
the pleasant prospect of leaving Vera Cruz and of seeing Santa
Arm a.. Two boxes, called carriages, drawn by mules, were at the
door, to convey us to Manga de Clavo. Sefior V  o, C  nr
the commander of the Jason, and I being encased in them, we set
off half-asleep. By the faint fight, we could just distinguish as we
passed the gates, and the carnages ploughed their way along, no
thing but sand — sand — as far as the eye could reach ; a few leagues
of Arabian desert.
At length we began to see symptoms of vegetation ; occasional
palm-trees and flowers, and by the time we had reached a pretty In
dian village, where we stopped to change mules, the hght had broke
in, and we seemed to have been transported, as if by enchantment,
from a desert to a garden. It was altogether a picturesque and
striking scene ; the huts composed of bamboo, and thatched with
palm-leaves, the Indian women with their long black hair standing
at the doors with their half-naked children, the mules rolling them
selves on the ground, according to their favourite fashion, snow-
white goats browzing amongst the palm-trees, and the air so soft
and balmy, the first fresh breath of morning ; the dew-drops still
glittering on the broad leaves of the banana and palm, and ah around
so silent, cool, and still.
The huts, though poor, were clean ; no windows, but a certain
subdued hght makes its way through the leafy canes. We procured
some tumblers of new milk, and having changed mules, pursued our
journey, now no longer through hills of sand, but across the country,
through a wilderness of trees and flowers, the glowing productions
of tierra caliente. We arrived about five at Manga de Clavo, after

SANTA ANNA. 27
passing through leagues of natural garden, the property of Santa
Anna. The house is pretty, shght-looking, and kept in nice order. We
were received by an aide-de-camp in uniform, and by several
officers, and conducted to a large, cool, agreeable apartment, with
httle furniture, into which shortly entered the Sefiora de Santa
Anna, tall, thin, and, at that early hour of the morning, dressed to
receive us in clear white muslin, with white satin shoes, and with
very splendid diamond earrings, brooch, and rings. She was very
pohte, and introduced her daughter Guadalupe, a miniature of her
mamma, in features and costume.
In a little while entered General Santa Anna, himself ; a gentle
manly, good-looking, quietly-dressed, rather melancholy -looking
person, with one leg, apparently somewhat of an invalid, and to us
the most interesting person in the group. He has a sallow com
plexion, fine dark eyes, soft and penetrating, and an interesting
expression of face. Knowing nothing of his past history, one would
have said a philosopher, living in dignified retirement, one who
had tried the world, and found that all was vanity, one who had
suffered ingratitude, and who, if he were ever persuaded to emerge
from his retreat, would only do so, Cincinnatus-like, to benefit his
country. It is strange, how frequently this expression of philosophic
resignation, of placid sadness, is to be remarked on the countenances
of the deepest, most ambitious, and most designing men. C  n
gave him a letter from the Queen, written under the supposition of
his being still President, with which he seemed much pleased, but
merely made the innocent observation, " How very well the Queen
writes!" It was only now and then, that the expression of his eye was
startling, especially when he spoke of his leg, which is cut off below
the knee. He speaks of it frequently, hke Sir John Ramorny of
his bloody hand, and when he gives an account of his wound, and
alludes to the French on that day, his countenance assumes that air
of bitterness which Ramorny's may have exhibited when speaking
of " Harry the Smith."
Otherwise, he made himself very agreeable, spoke a great deal of
the United States, and of the persons he had known there, and in
his manners was quiet and gentlemanlike, and altogether a more
pohshed hero than I had expected to see. To judge from the past,
he will not long remain in his present state of inaction, besides
having within him, according to Zavala, " a principle of action for
ever impelling him forward."
En attendant, breakfast was announced. The Sefiora de Santa
Anna led me in. C  n was placed at the head of the table, I on
his right, Santa Anna opposite, the Sefiora on my right. The
breakfast was very handsome, consisting of innumerable Spanish
dishes, meat and vegetables, fish and fowl, fruits and sweetmeats,
ah served fn white and gold French porcelain, with coffee, wines,

28 ESCORT AND DILIGENCE.
&c. After breakfast, the Sefiora having despatched an officer for
her cigar-case, which was gold, with a diamond latch, offered me a
cigar, which I having dechned, she hghted her own, a httle paper
" cigarito," and the gentlemen fohowed her good example.
We then proceeded to look at the out-houses and offices; at the
General's favourite war-horse, an old white charger, probably a
sincerer philosopher than his master; at several game-cocks, kept
with especial care, cock-fighting being a favourite recreation of Santa
Anna's; and at his litera, which is handsome and comfortable.
There are no gardens, but, as he observed, the whole country, which
for twelve leagues square belongs to him, is a garden. The ap
pearance of the family says httle for the healthiness of the locale ;
and indeed its beauty and fertility will not compensate for its
insalubrity. As we had but a few hours to spare, the General ordered round
two carriages, both very handsome, and made in the United States,
one of which conveyed him and C  n, the Sefiora and me. In
the other were the little girl and the officers, in which order we
proceeded across the country to the high-road, where the diligence
and servants, with our guide, Don Miguel S  , were to overtake
us. The diligence not having arrived, we got down and sat on a
stone bench, in front of an Indian cottage, where we talked, while
the young lady amused herself by eating apples, and C  n and
the General remained moralizing in the carriage.
Shortly after, and just as the sun was beginning to give us a
specimen of his power, our lumbering escort of Mexican soldiers
galloped up (orders having been given by the government that a
fresh escort shah be stationed every six leagues) and announced the
approach of the diligence. We were agreeably disappointed by the
arrival of a handsome new coach, made in the United States, drawn
by ten good-looking mules and driven by a smart Yankee coachman.
Our party consisted of ourselves, Don Miguel, the captain of the
Jason and his first heutenant, who accompany us to Mexico. The
day was delightful, and every one apparently in good humour. We
took leave of General Santa Anna, his lady and daughter, also of
our hospitable entertainer, Seiior V  o ; got into the diligence —
doors shut — ah right — lash up the mules, and now for Mexico !
Graduahy, as in Dante's Commedia, after leaving Purgatory,
typified by Vera Cruz, we seemed to draw nearer to Paradise.
The road is difficult, as the approach to Paradise ought to be, and
the extraordinary jolts were sufficient to prevent us from being too
much enraptured by the scenery, which increased in beauty as we
advanced. At Santa FtS and Sopilote we changed horses, and at
Tolome, one of the sites of the civil war, came to the end of Santa
Anna's twelve leagues of property,
We arrived at Puente Nacional, formerly Puente del Rey, cele
brated as the scene of many an engagement during the Revolution
and by occupying which, Victoria frequently prevented the passage

DON MIGUEL. 29
of the Spanish troops, and that of the convoys of silver to the port.
Here we stopped a short time to admire the beautiful bridge thrown
over the river Antigua, with its stone arches, which brought Mrs.
Ward's sketch to my recollection, though it is very long since I saw
the book. We were accompanied by the commander of the fort.
It is now a peaceful-looking scene. We walked to the bridge,
pulled branches of large white flowers, admired the rapid river
dashing over the rocks, and the fine, bold, scenery that surrounds it.
The village is a mere collection of huts, with some fine trees.
It was difficult to believe, as we journeyed on, that we were now
in the midst of December. The air was soft and balmy. The heat,
without being oppressive, that of a July day in England. The
road through a succession of woody country; trees covered with
every variety of blossom, and loaded with the most dehcious tropical
fruits; flowers of every colour filling the air with fragrance, and the
most fantastical profusion of parasitical plants intertwining the
branches of the trees, and flinging their bright blossoms over every
bough. Palms, cocoas, oranges, lemons, succeeded one another,
and at one turn of the road, down in a lovely green valley, we
caught a ghmpse of an Indian woman, with her long hair, resting
under the shade of a lofty tree, beside a running stream — an Oriental
picture. Had it not been for the dust and the jolting, nothing could
have been more delightful. As for Don Miguel, with his head out
of the window, now desiring the coachman to go more quietly, now
warning us to prepare for a jolt, now pointing out every thing worth
looking at, and making fight of all difficulties, he was the very best
conductor of a journey I ever met with. His hat of itself was a
curiosity to us ; a white beaver with immense brim, lined with
thick silver tissue, with two large silver rolls and tassels round it.
One circumstance must be observed by all who travel in Mexican
territory. There is not one human being or passing object to be
seen that is not in itself a picture, or which would not form a good
subject for the pencil. The Indian women with their plaited hair,
and httle children slung to their backs, their large straw hats, and
I>etticoats of two colours — the long strings of arrieros with their
oaded mules, and swarthy, wild-looking faces — the chance horseman
who passes with his sarape of many colours, his high ornamented
saddle, Mexican hat, silver stirrups and leathern boots — all is pic
turesque. Salvator Rosa and Hogarth might have travelled here to
advantage, hand-in-hand; Salvator for the sublime, and Hogarth
taking him up where the sublime became the ridiculous.
At La Calera, we had a distant view of the sea. Occasionally we
stopped to buy oranges fresh from the trees, pineapples, and grana-
ditas, which are hke Brobdinagian gooseberries, the pulp enclosed
in a very thick, yellow, or green rind, and very refreshing.
It was about seven in the evening, when very dusty, rather tired,
but very much enchanted with all we had seen, we arrived at Plan
del Rio. Here the diligence passengers generally stop for the night,

30 PLAN DEL RIO.
that is, sleep a few hours on a hard bed, and rise at midnight to go
on to Jalapa. But to this arrangement, I for one made vociferous
objections, and strongly insisted upon the propriety and feasibility
of sleeping at Jalapa that night. Don Miguel, the most obsequious
of Dons, declared it should be exactly as the Sefiora ordered. ,
Accordingly it was agreed that we should wait for the moon, and
then pursue our journey, and meanwhile we walked out to a short
distance, to see the bridge, the river, and the wood. The bridge
consists of a single large arch thrown over the river, and communi
cating with a great high-road, formerly paved, but now going to
ruin. We returned to the inn, a long row of small rooms, built of brick
and prettily situated, not far from the water. Here we had the
luxury of water and towels, which enabled us to get rid of a certain
portion of dust before we went to supper.
The diligence from Jalapa had just deposited at the inn, a
German with his wife and child, he bearing so decidedly the stamp
of a German musician, that we at once guessed his calling. They
are from Mexico, from whence the fine arts seem to be taking their
flight, and gave a most woful account of the road between this and
Jalapa. We had a very tolerable supper; soup, fish, fowls, steak, and
frijoles, ah weh seasoned with garhc and oil. The jolting had
given me too bad a headach to care for more than coffee. We
were strongly advised to remain the night there, but lazy people
know too weh what it is to rise in the middle of the night, espe
cially when they are much fatigued; and when the moon rose, we
packed ourselves once more into the diligence, sufficiently refreshed
to encounter new fatigues. The moon was very bright, and most
of the party prepared themselves for sleep with cigars in their
mouths; not a very easy matter, for the roads were infamous, a
succession of holes and rocks. As we were gradually ascending, the
weather became cooler, and from cool began to grow cold, forcing
us to look out for cloaks and shawls. We could now discern some
change in the vegetation, or rather a minghng of the trees of a
colder climate with those of the tropics, especially the Mexican oak,
which begins to flourish here. Fortunately, at one part of the road,
the moon enabled us to see the captain of the escort lying on the
ground fast asleep, his horse standing quietly beside him, he having
fallen off while asleep, and continued his nap. The soldiers shook
him up with some difficulty.
At Corral falso we changed mules, and from the badness of the
road, continued to go slowly.
The cold increased, and at last by the moonlight, we had a dis
tinct view of the Peak of Orizava, with his white nightcap on (ex
cuse the simile, suggested by extreme sleepiness), the very sight
enough to make one shiver.
As we approached Jalapa, the scene was picturesque. The escort

COFRE DE PEROTE. 31
had put on their sarapes, and with their high helmets and feathers,
went galloping along and dashing amongst the trees and shrubs.
Orizava and the Cofre de Perote shone white in the distance, while'a
delicious smell of flowers, particularly of roses, gave token of the
land through which we were passing.
It was nearly two in the morning when we reached Jalapa, tired
to death, and shivering with cold. Greatly we rejoiced .as we
rattled through its mountainous streets, and still more when we
found ourselves in a nice clean inn, with brick floors and decent
small beds, and every thing prepared for us. The sight of a fire
would have been too much luxury; however, they gave us some
hot tea, and very shortly after, I at least can answer for myseh, that
I was in bed, and enjoying the most dehghtful sleep that I have
had since I left New York.
This morning the diligence being at our disposal we did not rise by
break of day, but on the contrary, continued to sleep till eight o'clock.
I was waited on by such a nice, civil, clean httle old woman, that
I should hke to carry her off with me. Meanwhile, various autho
rities of the town were stationed at the door to give C  n welcome
when he should appear.
Our breakfast was dehcious. Such fresh eggs, and fresh butter,
and good coffee and well-fried chickens; moreover, such good bread
and peculiarly excehent water, that we fell very much in love with
Jalapa. After breakfast we walked out, accompanied by various gentle
men of the place. The town consists of httle more than a few steep
streets, very old, with some large and excehent houses, the best as
usual belonging to Enghsh merchants, and many to those -of Vera
Cruz, who come to hve in or near Jalapa, during the reign of the
" Vomito." There are some old churches, a very old convent of
Franciscan monks and a well-supplied market-place. Everywhere
there are flowers — roses creeping over the old. walls, Indian girls
making green garlands for the virgin and saints, flowers in the
shops, flowers at the windows, but, above ah, everywhere one of the
most splendid mountain views in the world.
The Cofre de Perote, with its dark pine forests and gigantic chest
(a rock of porphyry which takes that form), and the still loftier
snow-white peak of Orizava, tower above ah the others, seeming hke
the colossal guardians of the land. The intervening mountains, the
dark cliffs and fertile plains, the thick woods of lofty trees clothing
the hills and the valleys; a ghmpse of the distant ocean; the sur
rounding lanes shaded by fruit trees: aloes, bananas, chirimoyas,
mingled with the green hquidambar, the flowering myrtle, and hun
dreds of plants and shrubs and flowers of every colour and of deh
cious fragrance, ah combine to form one of the most varied and
beautifid scenes that the eye can behold.
Then Jalapa itself, so old and gray, and rose-becovered, with a
sound of music issuing from every open door and window, and its

32 CHANGE OF SCENERY.
soft and agreeable temperature, presents, even in a few hours, a
series of agreeable impressions not easily effaced.
But we are now returned to our inn, for it is near noon, and the
veil of clouds, that earher in the morning enveloped Orizava,_ has
passed away, leaving its white summit environed by a flood of hght.
I shall probably have no opportunity of writing until we reach
Puebla, Puebla, 24th.
Yesterday morning we took leave of the Jalapenos, and once more
found ourselves en route. Such a view of the mountains as we
ascended the steep road ! and such flowers and blossoming trees on
ah sides ! Large scarlet blossoms, and hanging purple and white
flowers, and trees covered with fragrant beh-shaped flowers hke
lilies, which the people here call the fioripundio, together with a
profusion of double pink roses that made the air fragrant as we
passed; and here and there a church, a ruined convent, or a white
hacienda. We had the advantage of clear weather, not always to
be found at Jalapa, especially when the north wind, blowing at
Vera Cruz, covers this city and its environs with a dense fog.
We stopped at a small village to change horses (for on leaving
Jalapa, our mules were exchanged for eight strong white horses),
and here Don Miguel made us enter a very pretty house belonging
to some female friends of his, one of whom was very handsome, with
a tasteful white turban. The curiosity of this place is a rock behind
the house, covered with roses, clove-carnations, and every variety of
bright flower-tree, together with oranges, lemons, limes, and cedrats,
ah growing out of the rock. The ladies were very civil, though I
dare say surprised at our admiration of their December flowers,
and gave us orangeade and cake, with large cedrats and oranges
from the trees; but above all, the most dehcious bouquet of roses
and carnations; so that, together with the unknown scarlet and
purple blossoms which the captain of the escort had gathered for
me, the dihgence inside looked hke an arbour.
We continued our journey, the road ascending towards the table
land, and at one striking point of view we got out and looked back
upon Jalapa. and round upon a panorama of mountams. Gradually
the vegetation changed : fine, fresh-looking European herbage and
trees succeeded the less hardy though more brilliant trees and
flowers of the tropics; the banana and chirimoya gave place to the
strong oak, and higher still, these were interspersed with the dark
green of the pine.
At San Miguel de los Soldados we stopped to take some refresh
ment. The country became gradually more bleak, and before
arriving at the village of Las Vigas, nearly all trees had disappeared
but the hardy fir, which flourishes amongst the rocks. The ground
for about two leagues was covered with lava, and great masses of
black calcined rock, so that we seemed to be passing over tha crater
of a volcano. This part of the country is deservedly called the Mai

A DILEMMA. 33
Pais, and the occasional crosses with their faded garlands, that
gleam in these bleak, volcanic regions, give token that it may have
jet other titles to the name of " Evil Land." The roses and carna
tions that I had brought from Jalapa were still unwithered, so that
in a few hours we had passed through the whole scale of vege
tation. The road became'steep and dreary, and after passing Cruz Blanca,
excepting occasional cornfields and sombre pine forests, the scene
had no objects of interest sufficient to enable us to keep our eyes
open. The sun was set — it grew dusk, and by the time we reached
Perote, where we were to pass the night, most of us had fallen into
an uncomfortable sleep, very cold and quite stupified, and too sleepy
to be hungry, in spite of finding a large supper prepared for us.
The inn was dirty, very unlike that at Jalapa, the beds miserable,
and we were quite ready to get up by the hght of an unhappy spe
cimen of tallow which the landlord brought to our doors at two in
the morning.
There are some scenes which can never be effaced from our
memory, and such a one was that which took place this morning at
Perote at two o'clock, the moon and the stars shining bright and
cold. Being dressed, I went into the kitchen, where C  n, the
officers of the Jason, Don Miguel, and the Mexican captain of the
last night's escort, were assembled by the fight of one melancholy
sloping candle, together with a suspicious-looking landlord, and a
few sleepy Indian women with bare feet, tangled hair, copper faces
and rebosos. They made us some chocolate with goat's milk, horrid
in general, and rancid in particular.
It appeared that all parties were at a stand-still, for by some mis
take in the orders, the new escort had not arrived, and the escort of
the preceding night could go no further. Don Miguel, with his
swarthy face and great sarape, was stalking about, rather out of
humour, while the captain was regretting, in very pohte tones, with
his calm, Arab-looking, impassive face, that his escort could proceed
no further. He seemed to think it extremely probable that we should
be robbed, beheved, indeed had just heard it asserted, that a party
of ladrones were looking out for el Sefior Ministro, regretted that he
could not assist us, though quite at our service, and recommended us
to wait until the next escort should arrive.
To this advice our conductor would by no means listen. He was
piqued that any detention should occur, and yet aware that it was
unsafe to go on. He had promised to convey us safely, and in four
days, to Mexico, and it was necessary to keep his word. _ Some one
proposed that two of the men should accompany the diligence upon
mules, as probably a couple of these animals might be procured. The
captain observed, that though entirely at our disposal, two men could
be of no manner of use, as in case of attack, resistance, except with a
laro-e escort, was worse than useless. Nevertheless it was remarked
D

34 SERIOUS DISPUTES.
by some ingenious person, that the robbers seeing two, might ima
gine that there were more behind. In short there were various
opinions. One proposed that they should go on the coach, another
that they should go in it. Here I ventured to interpose, begging
that they might ride on mules or go outside, but by no means within.
As usual, it was as the Sefiora pleased.
At length we ah collected before the door of the inn, and a queer
gToup we must have made by the hght of the moon, and a nice cari
cature, I thought to myself, our friend Mr. G  would have made
of us, had he been there.
The diligence with eight white horses and a Yankee coachman,
originally no doubt cahed Brown, but now answering to the melli
fluous appellation of Bruno ; A  with her French cap, and loaded
with sundry mysterious-looking baskets ; I with cloak and bonnet;
C  n with Greek cap, cloak and cigar ; the captain of the Jason also
with cloak and cigar, and very cold ; the heutenant in his navy uni
form, taking it coolly; Don Miguel, with his great sarape and silver
ha1^— (six people belonging to five different countries) ; the Mexican
captain, with his pale impassive face and moustaches, enveloped in a
very handsome sarape, and surrounded by the sleepy escort of the
preceding night; dirty-looking soldiers lounging on the ground,
wrapped in their blankets ; the Indian women and the host of the inn,
and a bright moon and starry sky hghting up the whole — the figures
in the foreground, and the lofty snow-clad mountains, and the dismal
old town of Perote itself, that looked gray and sulky at being disturbed
so early, with its old castle of San Carlos, and cold, sterile plains.
Meanwhile, two soldiers with cloaks and arms had climbed up
outside of the coach. The captain remarked that they could not sit
there. Bruno made some reply, upon which the captain very coolly
drew his sword, and was about to put a very decided iTnpp.di-mp.Tit, to
our journey by stabbing the coachman, when Don Miguel, his eyes
and cigar ah shining angrily, rushed in between them.
High words ensued between him and the captain, and the extreme
coolness and precision with which the latter spoke, was very amusing.
It was as if he were rehearsing a speech from a play. " I always
speak frankly," said Don Miguel, in an angry tone. " And I," said
the captain, in a pohte, measured voice, " am also accustomed to
speak my mind with extreme frankness. I regret, however, that I
did not at the moment perceive the Sefiora at the door, otherwise/' &c.
At length the two httle men, who with their arms and sarapes
looked hke bundles of ammunition, and who, half asleep, had been by
somezealous person, probably by our friend Bruno, tumbled upon the
diligence hke packages, were now rohed off it, and finally tumbled
upon mules, and we got into the coach. Don Miguel, with his head
out of the window, and not very easy in his mind, cahed up the two
bundles and gave them directions as to their hne of conduct in a stage
whisper, and they trotted off, primed with valour, while we very cold
and (I answer for myself) rather frightened, proceeded on our Avay.

LA VENTILLA. 35
The earhness of the hour was probably our salvation, as we started
two hours before the usual time, and thus gained a march upon the
gentlemen of the road.
We were not sorry, however, when, at our first halting-place, and
whilst we were changing horses, we descried a company of lancers at
full gallop, with a very good-looking officer at their head, coming
along the road, though when I first heard the sound of horses' hoofs
clattering along, and, by the faint light, discerned the horsemen, en
veloped as they were in a cloud of dust, I felt sure that they were a
party of robbers. The captain made many apologies for the delay,
and proceeded to inform us that the alcaldes of Tepeyagualco, La
Ventilla, and of some other villages, whose names I forget, had. for
twenty days prepared a breakfast in expectation of his Excellency's
arrival ; — whether twenty breakfasts , or the same one cold , or rechauffe,
we may never know.
The captain had a very handsome horse, which he caused to
caracolear by the side of the diligence, and put at my disposal with a
low bow, every time I looked at it. He discoursed with C  n
of robbers and wars, and of the different sites which these gentry most
affected, and told him how his first wife had been shot by following
him in some engagement, yet how his second wife invariably followed
him also.
Arrived at Tepeyagualco, after having passed over a succession of
sterile plains covered with scanty pasture, an alcalde advanced to meet
the diligence, and hospitably made C  n an offer of the before-
mentioned twenty days' entertainment, which he with many thanks
declined. Who ate that breakfast, is buried in the past. Whether
the alcalde was glad or sorry, did not appear. He vanished with a
profusion of bows, and was followed by a large,_ good-looking Indian
woman, who stood behind him while he made his discourse. Perhaps
they eat together the long-prepared feast; which was at least one of
the many tributes paid to the arrival of the first messenger of peace
from the mother-country.
At La Ventilla, however, we descended with a good appetite, and
found several authorities waiting to give C  n a welcome. Here
they gave us dehcious chirimoyas, a natural custard, which we hked
even upon a first trial, also granaditas, bananas,_ sapptes, &c. Here
also I first tasted pulque; and on a first impression it appears to me,
that as nectar was the drink in Olympus, we may fairly conjecture
that Pluto cultivated the maguey in his dominions. The taste and
smell combined took me so completely by surprise, that I am afraid
my look of horror must have given mortal offence to the worthy alcalde,
who considers it the most deficious beverage in the world; and, in
fact, it is said, that when one gets over the first shock, it is very
agreeahle. The difficulty must consist in getting over it.
After a tolerable breakfast, hunger making chile and garhc sup
portable, we continued our route ; and were informed that the robbers,
having grown very daring, and the next stage being very dangerous,
d2

36 OJO DE AGUA.
our escort was to be doubled. Since we left Perote, the country had
graduahy become more dreary, and we had again got into the " mal
pais," where nothing is to be seen but a few fir-trees and pines, dark
and stunted, black masses of lava, and an occasional white cross to
mark either where a murder has been committed, or where a cele
brated robber has been buried. Of each, Don Miguel gave us a suc
cinct account. Some fines of Childe Harold suit this scene as if
written for it :
" And here and there, as up the crags you spring,
Mark many rude-carved crosses near the path :
Yet deem not these devotion's offering —
These are memorials frail of murder jus wrath,
For wheresoe'er the shrieking victim hath
Pour'd forth his blood beneath the assassin's knife
Some hand erects a cross of mouldering lath ;
And grove and glen with thousand such are rife,
Throughout this purple land, where law secures not life."
The whole scene was wild and grand, yet dreary and monotonous,
presenting the greatest contrast possible to our first day's journey.
The only signs of fife to be met with were the long strings of arrieros
with their droves of mules, and an occasional Indian hut, with a few
miserable half-naked women and children.
At one small, wild-looking inn, where, very cold and miserable,
we stopped, some hot wine was brought us, which was very accept
able. The tavern-keeper, for it was no more than a spirit-shop, if not
a robber, had all the appearance of one; Avild, melancholy, and with
a most sinister expression of countenance. Salvator never drew a
more bandit-looking figure, as he stood there with his blanket and
slouched hat, and a knife in his belt, tall and thin and muscular, with
his sallow \dsage and his sad, fierce eyes. However, he showed us
the marks on his door, where a band of twenty robbers had broken
in one night, and robbed some travellers, who were sleeping there, of
a large sum of money.
C  n asked him how the robbers treated the women when they
fell into their power. " Las saludan," said he, " and sometimes
carry them off to the mountains, but rarely, and chiefly when they
are afraid of their giving information against them."
At Ojo de Agua, where we changed horses, we saw the accommo
dations Avhich those who travel in private coach or htera must sub
mit to, unless they bring their own beds along with them, and
a stock of provisions besides — a common room hke a barn, where
all must herd together ; and neither chair, nor table, nor food to
be had. It was a solitary-looking house, standing lonely on the
plain, with a few straggling sheep nibbhng the brown grass in the
vicinity. A fine spring of water from which it takes its name, and
Orizava, which seems to have travelled forward, and stands in bold
outline against the sapphire sky, were ah that we saw there worthy
notice. We changed horses at Nopaluca, Acagete and Amosoque, all

PUEBLA. 37
smaU villages, with httle more than the posada, and a few poor
houses, and all very dirty. The country, however, improves, in
cultivation and fertility, though the chief trees are the sombre pines.
Still accompanied by our two escorts, which had a very grandilo
quent, effect, we entered, by four o'clock, Puebla de los Angeles,
the second city to Mexico (after Guadalajara) in the republic,
where we found very fine apartments prepared for us in the inn, and
where, after a short rest and afresh toilet, we went out to see what we
could of the city before it grew dusk, before it actually became
what it now is, Christmas-eve !
It certainly does require some time for the eye to become
acccustomed to the style of building adopted in the Spanish colo-
nies._ There is something at first sight exceedingly desolate-look
ing in these great wooden doors, hke those of immense barns, the
great iron-barred windows, the ill-paved courtyards, even the flat
roofs ; and then the streets, where, though this is a fete-day, we
see nothing but groups of peasants or of beggars — the whole gives
the idea of a total absence of comfort. Yet the streets of Puebla
are clean and regular, the houses large, the cathedral magnificent,
and the plaza spacious and handsome.
The cathedral was shut, and is not to be opened till midnight
mass, which I regret the less as we must probably return here some
day. The dress of the Poblana peasants is pretty, especially on fete-
days. A white muslin chemise, trimmed with lace round the skirt,
neck, and sleeves, which are plaited neatly ; a petticoat shorter than
the chemise, and divided into two colours, the lower part made
generally of a scarlet and black stuff, a manufacture of the country,
and the upper part of yellow satin, with a satin vest of some bright
colour, and covered with gold or silver, open in front, and turned back.
This vest may be worn or omitted, as suits the taste of the wearer.
It is without sleeves, but has straps ; the hair plaited in two behind and
the plaits turned up, and fastened together by a diamond ring ; long
earrings, and all sorts of chains and medals and tinkhng things
worn round the neck. A long, broad, coloured sash, something
hke an officer's belt, tied behind after going twice or thrice round
the waist, into which is stuck a silver cigar-case. A small coloured
handkerchief hke a broad ribbon, crossing over the neck, is
fastened in front with a brooch, the ends trimmed with silver, and
going through the sash. Over all is throAvn a reboso, not over
the head, but thrown on like a scarf ; and they wear silk stock
ings, or more commonly no stockings, and white satin shoes
trimmed with silver.
This is on hohdays. On common occasions, the dress is the same,
but the materials are more common, at least the vest with silver is
never worn ; but the chemise is still trimmed with lace, and the
shoes are satin.
Christmas-eve in Puebla ! The room is filled with visiters, who

38 CHRISTMAS-EVE.
have come to congratulate C  n on his arrival, and a wonder
fully handsome room it is, to do it justice, with chairs and sofas ot
scarlet stuff. But I was anxious to see something. _ As we are to
leave Puebla very early, I am prohibited from going to the mid
night mass. I proposed the theatre, where there is to be a
Nacimiento, a representation in figures of various events connected
with the Birth of Christ ; such as the Annunciation, the Holy
Family, the Arrival of the Wise Men of the East, &c. But after
some deliberation, it was agreed that this would not do; so find
ing that there is nothing to be done, and tired of pohte conversa
tion, I betake myself to bed.
J Christmas-day.
It is now about three o'clock, but I was awakened an hour ago
by the sounds of the hymns which ushered in Christmas morning;
and looldng from the window, saw, by the faint hght, bands of
girls dressed in white, singing in chorus through the streets.
We have just taken chocolate, and amidst a profusion of bows
and civihties from the landlord, are preparing to set off for
Mexico.

LETTER THE SIXTH.
Departure from Puebla— Chirimoyas — Rio Frio — Indian Game — Black Forest
— Valley of Mexico — Recollections of Tenochtitlan — Mexican Officer — Re
ception — Scenery — Variety of Dresses — Cheers — Storm of Rain — Entry to
Mexico — Buenavista — House of Daylight — Sights from the windows — Visits
— Mexican Etiquette — Countess C- — - — a — Flowers in December — Serenade
— Patriotic Hymn. Mexico, 26th December.
We left Puebla between four and five in the morning, as we
purposely made some delay, not wishing to reach Mexico too early,
and in so doing, acted contrary to the adArice of Don Miguel, who
was generally right in these matters. The day was very fine when
we set off, though rain was predicted. Some of the gentlemen had
gone to the theatre the night before, to see the Nacimiento, and the
audience had been composed entirely of Gentuza, the common
people, who were drinking brandy and smoking; so it was fortunate
that we had not shown our faces there.
The country Avas now flat but fertile, and had on the whole more
of a European look than any we had yet passed through.

VALLEY OF MEXICO. 39
At Rio Prieto, a small village where Ave changed horses, I found
that I had been sitting very comfortably with my feet in a basket of
chirimoyas, and that my brodequins, white gown, and cloak, had
been ah drenched with the milky juice, and then made black by the
floor of the diligence.
With no small difficulty a trunk was brought down, and another
dress procured, to the great amusement of the Indian women, who
begged to know if my gown was the last fashion, and said it was
"muy guapa," very pretty. Here we found good hot coffee, and
it being Christmas-day, every one was cleaned and dressed for
mass. At Rio Frio, which is about thirteen leagues from Mexico, and
where there is a pretty good posada in a valley surrounded by
woods, we stopped to dine. The inn was kept by a Bordelaise and
her husband, who wish themselves in Bordeaux twenty times a day.
In front of the house some Indians were playing at a curious and
very ancient game — a sort of swing, resembling " El Juego [de los
Voladores," " The Game of the Flyers," much in vogue amongst the
ancient Mexicans. Our French hostess gave us a good dinner, es
pecially excellent potatoes, and jelly of various sorts, regaling us
with plenty of stories of robbers and robberies and horrid murders
all the while. On leaving Rio Frio, the road became more hilly
and covered with woods, and we shortly entered the tract known by
the name of the Black Forest, a great haunt for banditti, and a
beautiful specimen of forest scenery, a succession of lofty oaks, pines,
and cedars, with wild flowers lighting up their gloomy green. But
I confess that the impatience which I felt to see Mexico, the idea
that in a few hours we should actually be there, prevented me from
enjoying the beauty of the scenery, and made the road appear in
terminable. But at length we arrived at the heights looking down upon the
great valley, celebrated in ah parts of the world, with its frame
work of everlasting mountains, its snow-crowned volcanoes, great
lakes, and fertile plains, all surrounding the favoured city of Mon
tezuma, the proudest boast of his conqueror, once of Spain's many
diadems the brightest. But the day had OArercast, nor is this the
most favourable road for entering Mexico. The innumerable spires
of the distant city were faintly seen. The volcanoes were enveloped
in clouds, ah but their snowy summits, which seemed hke marble
domes towering into the sky. But as we strained our eyes to look
into the valley, it ah appeared to me rather hke a vision of the Past
then the actual breathing Present. The curtain of Time seemed to
roll back, and to discover to us the great panorama that burst upon
the eye of Cortes when he first looked down upon the table-land ;
the king-loving, God-fearing conqueror, his loyalty and religion so
blended after the fashion of ancient Spain, that it were hard to say
which sentiment exercised over him the greater sway. The city of
Tenochtitlan, standing in the midst of the five great lakes, upon

40 RECEPTION.
verdant and flower-covered islands, a western Venice, with thou
sands of boats ghding swiftly along its streets, long lines of low
houses, diversified by the multitudes of pyramidal temples, the Teo-
calli, or houses of God — canoes covering the mirrored lakes — the
lofty trees, the flowers, and the profusion of water now wantmgto
the landscape — the whole fertile valley enclosed by its eternal hills
and snoAv-crowned volcanoes — what scenes of wonder and of beauty
to burst upon the eyes of these wayfaring men !
Then the beautiful gardens surrounding the city, the profusion of
flowers, and fruit, and birds— the mild bronze-coloured Emperor
himself advancing in the midst of his Indian nobility, with rich
dress and unshod feet, to receive his unbidden and Turwelcome guest
— the slaves and the gold and the rich plumes, ah to be laid at the
feet of " His most sacred Majesty" — what pictures are cahed up by
the recollection of the simple narrative of Cortes, and how forcibly
they return to the mind now, when, after a lapse of three centuries,
we behold for the first time the city of palaces raised upon the ruins
of the Indian capital. It seemed scarcely possible that we were in
deed so near the conclusion of our journey, and in the midst of so
different a scene, only two months minus two days since leaving New
York and stepping aboard the Norma. How much land and sea we
had passed over since then ! How much we had seen ! How many
different chmates, even in the space of the last four days !
But my thoughts which had wandered three centuries into the
past, were soon recalled to the present by the arrival of an officer in
full uniform at the head of his troop, who came out by order of the
government to welcome the bearer of the olive-branch from ancient
Spain, and had been on horseback since the day before, expecting
our arrival. As it had begun to rain, the officer, Colonel Miguel
Andrade, accepted our offer of taking shelter in the diligence. We
had now a great troop galloping along with us, and had not gone far
before we perceived that in spite of the rain, and that it already began
to grow dusk, there were innumerable carriages and horsemen form
ing an immense crowd, all coming out to welcome us. Shortly after the
diligence was stopped, and we were requested to get into a A-ery splendid
carriage, all crimson and gold, with the arms of the repubhc, the
eagle and nopal, embroidered in gold on the roof inside, and drawn
by four handsome white horses. In the midst of this immense pro
cession of troops, carriages, and horsemen, we made our entry into
the city of Montezuma.
The scenery on this side of Mexico is arid and flat, and where the
waters of the Lagunas, covered with their gay canoes, once sur
rounded the city, forming canals through its streets, we now see me
lancholy marshy lands, little enhvened by great flights of wild duck
and waterfowl. But the bleakness of the natural scenery was con
cealed by the gay appearance of the procession — the scarlet and gold
uniforms, the _ bright-coloured sarapes, the dresses of the gentlemen
(most, I beheve, Spaniards), with their handsome horses, high

HOUSE BY DAYLIGHT. 41
Mexican saddles, gold-embroidered anqueras generally of black fur,
their Mexican hats ornamented with gold, richly-furred jackets,
pantaloons with hanging silver buttons, stamped-leather boots, silver
stirrups, and graceful mangas with black or coloured velvet capes.
At the gates of Mexico the troops halted, and three enthusiastic
cheers were given as the carriage entered. It was now nearly dusk,
and the rain was failing in torrents, yet we met more carriages full
of ladies and gentlemen, which joined the others. We found that a
house, in the suburbs at Buenavista, had been taken for us provisoire-
ment by the kindness of the Spaniards, especially of a rich mer
chant who accompanied us in the carriage, Don M  1 M  z
del C  o ; consequently we passed all through Mexico before
reaching our destination, always in the midst of the crowd, on account
of which and of the ill-paved streets we went very slowly.
Through the rain and the darkness we got an occasional faint
lamp-hght glimpse of high buildings, churches, and convents. Ar
rived at length in the midst of torrents of rain, C  n got out of
the carriage and returned thanks for his reception, giving some
ounces to the sergeant for the soldiers. We then entered the house,
accompanied by the Mexican officer, and by a large party of
Spaniards. We found the house very good, especially considering that it had
been furnished for us in eight-and-forty hours, and we also found
an excellent supper smoking on the table, after doing justice to
which we took leave of our friends, and, very tired, prepared for
sleep. The servants and luggage arrived late. They had been left with
the diligence, under the guardianship of Don Miguel, and it ap
peared that the robbers had mingled with the crowd, and followed
m hopes of plunder, insomuch that he had been obliged to procure
two carriages, one for the servants, while into another he put the
luggage, mounting in front himself to look out. Tired enough the
poor man was, and drenched with rain, and we found that much of
this confusion and difficulty, which was chiefly caused by the storm
and darkness, would have been avoided had we left Puebla some
hours sooner.
However, " All's weh that ends well." I thought of Christmas in
" Merrie England," and of our family gatherings in the olden time,
and as if one had not travelled enough in the body, began travelhng
in the mind, away to far different, and distant, and long gone-by
scenes, fell asleep at length with my thoughts in Scotland, and
wakened in Mexico !
By daylight we find our house very pretty, with a large garden
adjoining, full of flowers, and rosebushes in the courtyard, but
being all on the ground-floor, it is somewhat damp, and the weather,
though beautiful, is so cool in the morning, that carpets, and I some
times think even a soupgon of fire, would not be amiss. The former
we shall soon procure, but there are neither chimneys nor grates, and

42 . VISITERS.
I have no doubt a fire would be disagreeable for more than an hour
or so in the morning. The house stands alone, with a large court
before it, and opposite to it passes the great stone aqueduct, a mag
nificent work of the Spaniards, though not more so, probably, than
those which supphed the ancient Tenochtitlan with water. Behind
it we see nothing but several old houses, with trees, so that we seem
almost in the country. To' the right is one large building, with
garden and olive-ground, where the Enghsh legation formerly hved,
a palace in size, since occupied by Santa Anna, and which now be
longs to Sefior Perez Galvez; a house which we shah be glad to
have, if the proprietor will consent to let it.
But what most attracts our attention are the curious and pic
turesque groups of figures which we see from the windows — men
bronze-colour, with nothing but a piece of blanket thrown round
them, carrying lightly on their heads earthen basins, precisely the
colour of their own skin, so that they look altogether hke figures of
terra cotta : these basins filled with sweetmeats or white pyramids of
grease (mantequilla); women with robosos, short petticoats of two
colours, generally ah in rags, yet with a lace border appearing on
their under garment: no stockings, and dirty white satin shoes,
rather shorter than their small broAvn feet ; gentlemen on horseback
with their Mexican saddles and sarapes ; lounging leperos, moAong
bundles of rags, coming to the windows and begging with a most
piteous but false sounding whine, or lying under the arches and
lazily inhaling the air and the sunshine, or sitting at the door for
hours basking in the sun or under the shadow of the wall; Indian
women, with their tight petticoat of dark stuff and tangled hair,
plaited with red ribbon, laying down their baskets to rest, and mean
while dehberately examining the hair of their copper-coloured off
spring. We have enough to engage our attention for the present.
Several visiters came early — gentlemen, both Spaniards and Mex
icans. Senor A  z, decidedly the ughest man I ever beheld,
with a hump on his back, and a smile of most portentous hideosity,
yet celebrated for his bonnes fortunes; Sefior de G  a, Ex-
Minister of the Treasury, extremely witty and agreeable, and with
some celebrity as a dramatic writer; Count C  a, formerly at
tached to the bedchamber in Spain, married to a pretty Andalusian,
and entirely Mexicanized, his heart where his interests are. He is
very gentlemanlike and distinguished-looking, with good manners,
and extremely eloquent in conversation. I hear him cahed
"inconsecuente," and capricious, but he has welcomed C  n,
who knew him intimately in Madrid, with ah the warmth of ancient
friendship. We are told that a great serenade has been for some time in con
templation, to be given to C  n, the words, music, and perform
ance by the young Spaniards resident here.
27th. — A day or two must elapse before I can satisfy my curiosity
by going out, while the necessary arrangements are making con-

visits. 43
cerning carriage and horses, or mules, servants, &c. ; our vehicles
from the United States not having yet arrived, nor is it difficult to
foresee, even from once passing through the streets, that only the
more sohd-built Enghsh carriages will stand the wear and tear of a
Mexican life, and that the comparatively flimsy coaches which roll
over the well-paved streets of New York, will not endure for any
length of time.
Meanwhile we have constant visits, but- chiefly from gentlemen
and from Spaniards, for there is one piece of etiquette, entirely
Mexican, nor can I imagine from whence derived, by which it is
ordained that ah new arrivals, whatever be then: rank, foreign
Ministers not excepted, must in solemn print give notice to every
family of any consideration in the capital, that they have arrived,
and offer themselves and their house to their " disposicion;" failing in
which etiquette, the newly-arrived family will remain unnoticed and
unknown. Our cards to this effect are consequently being printed
under the auspices of Count C  a. I have, however, received
the visits of some ladies who have kindly waved this ceremony in
my favour; and amongst others, from the Dowager and the young
Countess of C  a ; the eldest a very distinguished woman, of great
natural talent, one of the true ladies of the old school, of whom
not many specimens now remain in , Mexico ; the other extremely
pretty, lively, and amiable, a true Andalusian both in beauty and
wit. The old Countess was dressed in black velvet, black blonde
mantilla, diamond earrings and brooch — her daughter-in-law also in
black, with a mantiha, and she had a pretty httle daughter with
her, whose eyes will certainly produce a kindling effect on the next
generation. They were both extremely kind and cordial; if there are many
such persons in Mexico, we shall have no reason to complain. I
hope I am not seeing the cream before the milk !
Some Mexican visits appear to me to surpass in duration ah that
one can imagine of a visit, rarely lasting less than one hour, and
sometimes extending over a great part of the day. And gentlemen,
at least, arrive at no particular time. If you are going to breakfast,
they go also — if to dinner, the same — if you are asleep, they wait
till you awaken — if out, they cah again. An indifferent sort of man,
whose name I did not even hear, arrived yesterday a httle after
breakfast, sat still, and walked in to a late dinner with us ! These
should not be cahed visits, but visitations, though I trust they do
not often occur to that extent. An open house and an open table
for your friends, which includes every passing acquaintance ; these
are merely Spanish habits of hospitahty transplanted.
Had a visit from Sefior  and his wife, very civil and obhging
people, always agreeing with each other, and with you, and
with all the world, almost to the extent of Polonius to Hamlet.
Our conversation reminded me of that the whole time they
were here.

44 SERENADE.
I have just brought from the garden a lapful of pink roses, clove-
carnations, and sweet-peas. Rosetta could not sing here —
" For June and December will never agree."
The weather is lovely, the air fresh and clear, the sky one vast
expanse of bright blue, without a single cloud. Early this morning
it was cool, but now, by ten o'clock, the air is as soft and balmy as
on a summer-day Avith us.
28th. — Day of the memorable serenade. After dinner some ladies
paid me a visit, amongst others the wife and daughter of the Spanish
consul, Seiior M  y, who were accompanied by the sister of
Count A  a. They and a few gentlemen arrived about six
o'clock, and it was said that the serenade would not begin till twelve.
It may be supposed that our conversation, however agreeable it
might be, would scarcely hold out that time. In fact, by nine
o'clock, we were ah nearly OA'ercome by sleep, and by ten I beheve
we were already in a refreshing slumber, when we were awakened
by the sound of crowds assembling before the door, and of carriages
arriving and stopping. Not knowing who the occupants might be,
we could not inA>ite them in, which, seemed very inhospitable, as the
night, though fine, was cold and chilly. About eleven Count and
Countess C  a arrived, and, the Sefiora de G  a, a remarkably
handsome woman, a Spaniard, looking nearly as young as her
daughters; also the pretty daughters of the proprietress of this house,
who was a beauty, and is married to her third husband ; and a hvely
httle talkative person, the Sefiora de L  n, ah Spanish; and who,
some on that account, and others from their husbands having been
former friends of C  n's, have not waited for the ceremony of
receiving cards. Gradually, however, several Mexican ladies, whom
we had sent out to invite, came in. Others remained in their car
riages, excusing themselves on the plea of their not being en toilette.
We had men a discretion, and the rooms were crowded.
About midnight arrived a troop of Mexican soldiers, carrying
torches, and a multitude of musicians, both amateur and professional,
chiefly the former, and men carrying music-stands, violins, Ariolon-
cellos, French horns, &c, together Avith an immense crowd, min
gled with numbers of leperos, so that the great space in front of the
house as far as the aqueduct, and all beyond and along the street as
far as we could see, was covered with people and carriages. We
threw open the windows, which are on a level with the ground, with
large balconies and wide iron gratings, and the scene by the torch
hght was very curious. The Mexican troops holding lights for the
musicians, and they of various countries, Spanish, German, and
Mexican; the leperos, with their ragged blankets and wild eyes, that
gleamed in the hght of the torches; the ladies within and the crowd
without, ah formed a very amusing spectacle.
At length the musicians struck up in full chorus, accompanied by
the whole orchestra. The voices were fine, and the instrumental

PATRIOTIC HYMN. 45
music so good, I could hardly beheve that almost ah were amateur
performers. A hymn, which had been composed for the occasion, and of
which we had received an elegantly-bound copy in the morning,
was particularly effective. The music was composed by Senor Retes,
and the words by Sefior Covo, both Spaniards. Various overtures
from the last operas were played, and at the end of what seemed to
be the first act, in the midst of deafening applause from the crowd,
C  n made me return thanks from the window in beautiful im
promptu Spanish ! Then came shouts of " Viva la Espana 1" " Viva
Ysabel Segunda !" " Viva el Ministro de Espafia !" Great and con
tinued cheering. Then C  n gave in return, " Viva la Repubhca
Mexicana!" "Viva Bustamante!'' and the shouting was tremen
dous. At last an Andalusian in the crowd shouted out, " Viva
todo el Mundo !" (Long hve every body), which piece of wit was
followed by general laughter.
After hot punch and cigars had been handed about out of doors,
a necessary refreshment in this cold night, the music recommenced,
and the whole ended with the national hymn of Spain, with appro
priate words. A young Spanish girl, whose voice is celebrated
here, was then entreated by those within, and beseeched by those
without, to sing alone the hymn composed in honour of C  n,
which she naturally felt some hesitation in doing before such an im
mense audience. However, she consented at last, and in a voice
like a clarion, accompanied by the orchestra, sung each verse alone,
joined in the chorus by the whole crowd. I give you a copy:
Himno Patriotico que varios Espanoles, Residentes en Mexico, dedican al
Esmo. Sr. Don A  C  de la B  , Ministro Plenipotenciario de
S. M. C. en la Repiiblica, con Motivo de su Llegada a diclia Capital.
Musica del Sr. J. N. de Retes ; Palabras del Sr. Dn. Juan Covo.
COBO.
Triunfamos, amigos,
Triunfamos enfln,
Y libre respir
La Patria del Cid.
La augusta Cristina,
De Espana embeleso,
El mas tierno beso
Imprime a Ysabel:
Y " Reina," le dice,
" No ia sobre esclavos ;
Sobre Iberos bravos,
Sobre un pueblo fiel."
Triunfamos, amigos, &c.
Donde esta de Carlos
La perfida hueste V
Un rayo celeste
Polvo la torno.

46 PATRIOTIC HYMN.
Rayo que al malvado
Hundio en el abismo —
Rayo que al Carlismo
Libertad lauzo.
Triunfamos, amigos, &c.
Al bravo Caudillo,
Al bueno, al valiente,
Cinamos la frente
De mirto y laurel.
Tu diestra animosa,
Heroico guerrero,
Tu diestra, Espartero,
Sojuzgo al infiel.
Triunfamos, amigos, &c.
Veranse acatadas
Nuestras Santas leyes ;
Temblaran los Reyes
De Espana al poder.
Y el cetro de oprobrio,
Si empuna un tirano,
De su infame mano
Le haremos caer.
Triunfamos, amigos, &c.
Salud a Ysabela,
Salud a Cristina,
Que el cielo destina
La patria a salvar.
Y el libre corone
La Candida frente
De aquella inocente
Que juro amparar.
Triunfamos, amigos, &c.
Y tu, mensagero
De paz y Ventura,
Oye la voz pura
De nuestra lealtad.
Oye los acentos
Que al cielo elevamos,
Oye cual gritamos,
Patria! Libertad!
Triunfamos, amigos, &c.
Tu el simbolo digno
Seras, C  n,
De grata reunion,
De eterna amistad,
Queya, en ambos mundos,
La insana discordia
Trocose en concordia
Y fraternidad. Triunfamos amigos, &c.

PATRIOTIC HYMN. 47
TRANSLATION.
Patriotic Hymn which various Spaniards, resident in Mexico, dedicate to his
Excellency Sefior Don A  C  de la B  , Minister Plenipotentiary
and Envoy Extraordinary from H. C. M. to the Republic, to celebrate his
arrival in this Capital.
The music by Seiior Don J. N. de Retf.s ; the words by Sefior Don J uan Covo.
CHORUS.
Let us triumph, my friends,
Let us triumph at length,
And let the country of the Cid
Breathe freely again.
The august Christina,
The ornament of Spain,
Imprinted the most tender kiss
On the cheek of Isabel.
And " Reign," she said to her,
" Not now over slaves,
But over brave Iberians,
Over a faithful people !"
Let us triumph, my friends, &c.
Where is the perfidious
Army of Carlos ?
A celestial thunderbolt
Has turned it to dust —
A thunderbolt which plunged
The wicked one into the abyss —
A thunderbolt which Liberty
Launched against Carlism.
Let us triumph, my friends, &c.
Of the brave chief,
Of the good, the valiant,
Let us gird the forehead
With myrtle and laurel.
Thy brave right hand,
Heroic warrior,
Thy right hand, Espartera,
Subdued the disloyal one.
Let us triumph, my friends, &c.
Our holy laws
Will be acknowledged,
And kings will tremble
At the power of Spain ;
And should a tyrant grasp
The sceptre of opprobrium,
From his infamous hand
We shall cause it to fall.
Let us triumph, my friends, &c.
Health to Isabella,
Health to Christina,
Whom Heaven has destined
To save the country ;

48 ACTORS AND MATADORS.
And may he freely crown
The white forehead
Of the innocent princess
He swore to protect.
Let us triumph, my friends, &c.
And thou, messenger
Of peace and joy,
Hear the pure voice
Of our loyalty;
Hear the accents
Which we raise to Heaven ;
Hear what we cry,
Country ! Liberty .'
Let us triumph, my friends, &c.
Thou, C  n, shalt be
The worthy symbol
Of grateful reunion,
Of eternal friendship,
Which already has changed,
In both worlds,
Insane discord
Into concord and fraternity.
Let us triumph, my friends, &c.
The air was rent with vivas ! and bravos ! as the Sefiorita de F 
concluded. Her voice was beautiful, and, after the first moment of
embarrassment, she sang with much spirit and enthusiasm.^ This
was the finale of the serenade, and then the serenaders were invited
in, and were in such numbers that the room would scarcely hold
them ah. More cigars, more punch, more giving of thanks. About
three o'clock the crowd began to disperse, and at length, after those
Spanish leave-takings, which are really no joke, had ended, Captain
E  , C  n, and I, all three excessively cold and shivering,
having passed the night at the open windows, consoled ourselves
with hot chocolate and punch, and went to dream of sweet-sounding
harmonies. Altogether, it was a scene which I would not have
missed for a great deal.
The enthusiasm caused by the arrival of the first minister from
Spain seems graduahy to increase. The actors are to give him a
a ufu?icion exlraordinaria," in the theatre — the matadors a bull-fight
extraordinary, with fireworks  But in ah this you must not
suppose there is any personal compliment. It is merely intended as
a mark of good wih towards the first representative of the Spanish
monarchy who brings from the mother-country the formal acknow
ledgment of Mexican independence.

49

LETTER THE SEVENTH.
Debut in Mexico— Cathedral— Temple of the Aztecs— Congregation— Stone of
Sacrifices— Palace— Importunate Leperos— Visit to the President— Countess
C  a — Street-cries — Tortilleras — Sartor Resartus.
I MADE my debut in Mexico by going to mass in the cathedral.
We drove through the Alameda, near which we hve, and admired
its noble trees, flowers, and fountains, ah sparkling in the sun. We
met but few carriages there, an occasional gentleman on horseback,
and a few solitary-looking people resting on the stone benches, also
plenty of beggars, and the forqats in chains, watering the avenues.
We passed through the Calle San Francisco, the handsomest street
in Mexico, both as to shops and houses (containing, amongst others,
the richly-carved but now half-ruined palace of Yturbide), and
which terminates in the great square where stand the cathedral and
the palace. The streets were crowded, it being a hohday; and the
purity of the atmosphere, with the sun pouring down upon the
bright-coloured groups, and these groups so picturesque, whether of
soldiers or monks, peasants or veiled ladies; the very irregularity of
the buildings, the number of fine churches and old convents, and
every thing on so grand a scale, even though touched by the finger
of time, or crushed by the iron heel of revolution, that the attention
is constantly kept ahve, and the interest excited.
The carriage drew up in front of the cathedral, built upon the site
of part of the ruins of the great temple of the Aztecs; of that
pyramidal temple, constructed by Ahuitzoili, the sanctuary so cele
brated by the Spaniards, and which comprehended with all its
different edifices and sanctuaries, the ground on which the cathedral
now stands, together with part of the plaza and streets adjoining.
We are told, that within its enclosure were five hundred dwellings,
that its hall was built of stone and lime, and ornamented with stone
serpents. We hear of its four great gates, fronting the four cardinal
points of its stone-paved court, great stone stairs, and sanctuaries
dedicated to the gods of war; of the square destined for religious
dances, and the colleges for the priests, and seminaries for the
priestesses; of the horrible temple, whose door was an enormous
serpent's mouth ; of the temple of mirrors and that of shells ; of the
house set apart for the emperor's prayers ; of the consecrated
fountains, the birds kept for sacrifice, the gardens for the holy
flowers, and of the terrible towers composed of the skulls of the
victims — strange mixture of the beautiful and the horrible ! We
E

50 AZTEC CALENDAR.
are told that five thousand priests chanted night and day in the
Great Temple, to the honour and in the service of the monstrous
idols, who were anointed thrice a day with the most precious per
fumes, and that of these priests the most austere were clothed _ in
black, their long hair dyed with ink, and their bodies anointed with
the ashes of burnt scorpions and spiders; their chiefs were the sons of
kings. It is remarkable, by the way, that their god of war, Mejitli, was
said to have been born of a woman, a Holy Virgin, who was in the
service of the temple, and that when the priests, having knowledge
of her disgrace, would have stoned her, a voice was heard, saying,
" Fear not, mother, for I shah save thy honour and my glory," upon
which the god was born, with a shield in his left hand, an arrow in
his right, a plume of green feathers on his head, his face painted blue,
and his left leg adorned with feathers! Thus was his gigantic
statue represented.
There were gods of the Water, of the Earth, of Night, Fire, and
Heh; goddesses of Flowers and of Corn; there were oblations
offered of bread and flowers and jewels, but we are assured that
from twenty to fifty thousand human victims were sacrificed annually
in Mexico alone ! That these accounts are exaggerated, even though
a bishop is among the narrators, we can scarcely doubt, but if the
tenth part be the truth, let the memory of Cortes be sacred, who,
with the cross, stopped the shedding of innocent blood, founded the
cathedral on the ruins of the temple which had so often resounded
with human groans, and in the place of these blood-smeared idols
enshrined the mild form of the Virgin.
Meanwhile we entered the Christian edifice, which covers an im
mense space of ground, is of the Gothic form, with two lofty orna
mented towers, and is still immensely rich in gold, silver, and jewels.
A balustrade running through it, which Avas brought from China, is
said to be very valuable, but seems to me more curious than beautiful.
It is a composition of brass and silver. Not a soul was in the sacred
precincts this morning but miserable leperos, in rags and blankets,
mingled with women in ragged rebosos — at least a sprinkling of
ladies with mantillas was so very shght, that I do not think there
were hah a dozen in ah. The floor is so dirty that one kneels with a
feeling of horror, and an inward determination to effect as speedy a
change of garments afterwards as possible. Besides, many of my
Indian neighbours were engaged in an occupation which I must leave
to your imagination; in fact, relieving their heads from the pressure
of the colonial system, or rather, eradicating and slaughtering the
colonists, who swarm there hke the emigrant Irish in the United
States. I was not sorry to find myseh once more in the pure air
after mass ; and have since been told that, except on peculiar occasions
and at certain hours, few ladies perform their devotions in the
cathedral. I shall learn all these particulars in time.
We saw, as we passed out, the Aztec Calendar, a round stone

LEPEROS. 5 1
covered with hieroglyphics, which is still preserved and fastened on
the outside of the cathedral. We afterwards saw the Stone of
Sacrifices, now in the courtyard of the university, with a hollow in
the middle, in which the victim was laid, while six priests, dressed in
red, their heads adorned with plumes of green feathers (they must
have looked hke macaws), with gold and green earrings, and blue
stones in their upper hps, held him down, while the chief priest cut
open his breast, threAV his heart at the feet of the idol, and afterwards
put it into his mouth with a golden spoon. They then cut off his
head, to make use of it in building the tower of skulls, eat some parts
of him, and either burnt the rest, or threw it to the Avild beasts who
were maintained in the palace.
These interesting particulars occurred to us as we looked at the
stone, and we were not sorry to think that it is now more ornamental
than useful.
After leaving the cathedral, C  n fastened on his orders in the
carriage, as this day was appointed for his presentation to the Presi
dent, and we drove to the palace, where I left him, and returned
home. He was received Avith great etiquette, a band of music
playing in the court, the President in full uniform, surrounded by
all his ministers and aides-de-camp, standing before a throne, under
a velvet dais, his feet upon a tabouret, the whole being probably the
same as was used by the viceroys Viva la Republica ! C  n
made a discourse to him, and he made one in return, both of which
may be found by those who are curious in these matters, in the
Diario of the 31st December 
Whilst I am writing a horrible lepero, with great leering eyes, is
looldng at me through the windows, and performing the most ex
traordinary series of groans, displaying at the same time a hand with
two long fingers, probably the other three tied in. " Senorita!
Senorita ! For the love of most Holy Virgin ! For the sake of the
most pure blood of Christ ! By the miraculous Conception ! — "
The wretch ! I dare not look up, but I feel that his eyes are fixed
upon a gold watch and seals lying on the table. That is the worst
of a house on the ground floor. . . . There come more of them !
A paralytic woman mounted on the back of a man with a long
beard. A sturdy-looking individual, who looks as if, were it not for
the iron bars, he would resort to more effective measures, is holding
up a deformed foot, which I verily beheve is merely fastened back in
some extraordinary way. What groans ! what rags ! what a chorus
of whining ! This concourse is probably owing to our having sent
them some money yesterday. I try to take no notice, and write on
as if I were deaf. I must walk out of the room, without looking
behind me, and send the porter to disperse them. There are no
bell-ropes in these parts. . . .
I come back again to write, hardly recovered from the start that
I have just got. I had hardly written the last words, when I heard
a footstep near me, and, looking up, lo ! there was my friend with
E 2

52 GENERAL BUSTAMANTE.
the foot, standing within a yard of me, his hand stretched out for
alms ! I was so frightened, that for a moment I thought of giA-ing
him my watch, to get rid of him. However, I ghdedpast him with
a few unintelligible words, and rushed to cah the servants ; sending
him some money by the first person who came. The porter, who
had not seen him pass, is now dispersing the crowd. What voci
ferous exclamations ! A  has come in, and drawn the curtains,
and I think they are going off.
Yesterday evening, I was taken to A'isit the President. The
palace is an immense building, containing, besides the apartments of
the President and his ministers, all the chief courts of justice. It
occupies one side of the square, but is no way remarkable in its
architecture. At the end of every flight of steps that we mounted,
we came upon lounging soldiers, in their yellow cloaks, and women
in rebosos, standing about. We passed through a hah filled Avith
soldiers, into the antechamber, where we were received by several
aides-de-camp, who conducted us into a very well-furnished room,
where we sat a few minutes, till an officer came to lead us into the
reception-room, which is a handsome apartment, about a hundred
feet long, and fitted up Avith crimson and gold, also weh hghted.
General Bustamante, now in plain clothes, gave us a very cordial
reception. He looks hke a good man, with an honest, benevolent face, frank
and simple in his manners, and not at all hke a hero. His conver
sation was not brilliant, indeed I do not know apropos to what, I
suppose to the climate, but it chiefly turned on medicine. There
cannot be a greater contrast, both in appearance and reahty, than
between him and Santa Anna. There is no lurking deAal in his
eye. All is frank, open, and unreserved. It is impossible to look
in his face without believing him to be an honest and Avell-inten-
tioned man. An unprincipled but clever Avriter has said of him,
that he has no great capacity or superior genius; but that, whether
from reflection or from slowness of comprehension, he is always ex
tremely calm in his determinations : that before entering into any
project, he inquires and considers deeply as to whether it be just or
not ; but that once con-vinced that it is or appears to be so, lie sus
tains his ground with firmness and constancy. He adds, that it suits
him better to obey than to command; for which reason he was
always «> devoted a servant of the Spaniards and of Yturbide.
He is said to be a devoted friend, is honest to a proverb, and
personally brave, though occasionally deficient in moral energy. He
is therefore an estimable man, and one who will do his duty to the
best of his ability ,_ though whether he has severity and energy suffi
cient for those evil days in Avhich it is his lot to govern, may be
problematical. Having made a sufficiently long visit to his Excellency, we
went to return that of the Countess C  a, who has a magnificent
house, with suits of large rooms, of which the draAving-room is par-

STREET-CRIES. 53
ticularly handsome, of immense size, the walls beautifully painted,
the subjects religious, and where I found one of Broadwood's finest
grand pianos. But although there are cabinets inlaid with gold,
fine paintings, and hundreds of rich and curious things, our Euro
pean eyes are struck with numerous inconsistencies in dress, servants,
&c, in all of which there is a want of keeping very remarkable!
Yet this house, and the one adjoining, which also belongs to the
family, are palaces in vastness, and the Countess receives me more
as if I were her daughter, than a person with whom she has been
acquainted but a few days.
There are an extraordinary number of street-cries in Mexico,
which begin at dawn and continue till night, performed by hundreds
of discordant voices, impossible to understand at first ; but Senor
 has been giving me an explanation of them, until I begin to
have some distinct idea of their meaning. At dawn you are
awakened by the shrill and desponding cry of the Carbonero, the
coal-men, " Carbon! Seiior," which, as he pronounces it, sounds
hke " Carbosiu !" Then the grease-man takes up the song, " Man-
tequilla ! lard ! lard ! at one real and a half." " Salt beef! good
salt beef!" (" Cecina buena !") interrupts the butcher in a hoarse
voice. " Hay cebo-o-o-o-o-o ?" This is the prolonged and melan
choly note of the woman who buys kitchen-stuff, and stops before
the door. Then passes by the cambista, a sort of Indian she-trader
or exchanger, who sings out, " Tejocotes por venas de chile ?" a
small fruit which she proposes exchanging for hot peppers. No
harm in that.
A kind of ambulating pedler drowns the shrill treble of the
Indian cry. He calls aloud upon the pubhc to buy needles, pins,
thimbles, shirt-buttons, tape, cotton-balls, small mirrors, &c. He
enters the house, and is quickly surrounded by the women, young
and old, offering him the tenth part of what he asks, and which,
after much haggling, he accepts. Behind him stands the Indian
with his tempting baskets of fruit, of which he calls out all the
names, till the cook or housekeeper can resist no longer, and putting
her head over the balustrade, calls him up with his bananas, and
oranges, and granaditas, &c.
A sharp note of interrogation is heard, indicating something that
is hot, and must be snapped up quickly before it cools. " Gorditas
de horna caliente T' " Little fat cakes from the oven, hot ?" This is
in a female key, sharp and shrill. Follows the mat-seller. " Who
wants mats from Puebla ? mats of five yards?" These are the most
matinal cries.
At midday the beggars begin to be particularly importunate, and
their cries, and prayers, and long recitations, form a running accom
paniment to the other noises. Then above all rises the cry of
" Honey-cakes !" " Cheese and honey?" " Requeson and good
honey ?" (Requeson being a sort of hard curd, sold in cheeses.)
Then come the dulce-men, the sehers of SAveetmeats, of meringues,

54 " SARTOR RESARTUS."
which are very good, and of ah sorts of candy. " Caramelos de
esperma ! bocadillo de coco !" Then the lottery-men, the messengers
of Fortune, with their shouts of " The last ticket, yet unsold, for
hah a real !" a tempting announcement to the lazy beggar, who finds
it easier to gamble than to work, and who may have that sum hid
about his rags.
Towards evening rises the cry of " Tortillas de cuajada ?'' " Curd-
cakes ?" or, " Do you take nuts ?" succeeded by the night-cry of
" Chestnuts hot and roasted !" and by the affectionate venders of
ducks ; " Ducks, oh my soul, hot ducks !" " Maize-cakes," &c. &c.
As the night wears away, the Alices die off, to resume next morning
in fresh vigour.
Tortillas, which are the common food of the people, and which
are merely maize cakes mixed with a httle lime, and of the form
and size of what we call scones, I find rather good when very hot
and fresh-baked, but insipid by themselves. They have been in use
ah through this country since the earhest ages of its history, without
any change in the manner of baking them, excepting that, for the
noble Mexicans in former days, they used to be kneaded with various
medicinal plants, supposed to render them more wholesome. They
are considered particularly palatable with chile, to endure which, in
the quantities in which it is eaten here, it seems to me necessary to
have a throat hned with tin.
In unpacking some books to-day, I happened to take up " Sartor
Resartus," which, by a curious coincidence, opened of itself, to my
great delight, at the fohowing passage :
" The simplest costume," observes our Professor, " which I any
where find alluded to in history, is that used as regimental by
Bohvar's cavalry, in the late Columbian wars. A square blanket,
twelve feet in diagonal, is provided, (some were wont to cut off the
corners, and make it circular;) in the centre a sht is effected, eighteen-
inches long ; through this the mother-naked trooper introduces his
head and neck; and so rides, shielded from all weather, and in battle
from many strokes (for he rolls it about his left arm); and not only
dressed, but harnessed and draperied." Here then we find the true
" Old Roman contempt of the superfluous," which seems rather to
meet the approbation of the illustrious Professor Teufelsdroch.

55

LETTER THE EIGHTH.
Ball in preparation— Agreeable Family— Pine Voices— Theatre— Smoking —
Castle of Chapultepec — Viceroy Galvez— Montezuma's Cypress— Vice-Queen
— Valley of Mexico— New Year's Day — Opening of Congress— Visits from
the Diplomatic Corps — Poblana Dress — " Funcion extraordinaria" — Theatre
Visit to the Cathedral of Guadalupe — Divine Painting — Bishop — Beggars —
Mosquitoes' Eggs.
A great bah is to be given on the 8th of January in the theatre
for the benefit of the poor, which is to be under the patronage of
the most distinguished ladies of Mexico. After much dehberation
amongst the patronesses it is decided that it shall be a bal costume,
and I have some thoughts of going in the Poblana dress, which I
before described to you. As I am told that the Senora G  a wore
it at a bah in London, when her husband was minister there, I have
sent my maid to learn the particulars from her.
We cahed to-day on a family nearly related to the C — - — as, and
who have been aheady excessively kind to us; Seiior A  d, who
is married to a daughter of Don Francisco Tagle, a very distin
guished Mexican. We found a very large, very handsome house,
the walls and roof painted in the old Spanish style, which, when
weh executed, has an admirable effect. The lady of the house, who
is only nineteen, I took a fancy to at first sight. She is not regu
larly beautiful, but has lovely dark eyes and eyebrows with fair
complexion and fair hair, and an expression of the most perfect
goodness, with very amiable manners. I was surprised by hear
ing her sing several very difficult Itahan songs with great ex
pression and wonderful facihty. She has a fine contralto, which
has been cultivated ; but some Spanish ballads, and httle songs of
the country, she sang so dehghtfully, and with so much good-nature
and readiness, that had it not been a first visit, I should have begged
her to continue during hah the morning. Fine voices are said to
be extremely common, as is natural in a country peopled from
Spain, and the opera, while it lasted, contributed greatly to the
cultivation of musical taste.
In the evening we went to the theatre. Such a theatre ! Dark,
dirty, redolent of bad odours ; the passages leading to the boxes so
ih-hghted, that one is afraid in the dark to pick one's steps through
them. The acting was nearly of a piece. The first actress, who is
a favourite, and who dresses weh, and bears a high reputation for
good conduct, is perfectly wooden, and never frightened out of her

56 RECOLLECTIONS.
proprieties in the most tragical scenes. I am sure there is not a fold
deranged in her dress when she goes home. Besides, she has a
most remarkable trick of pursing up her mouth in a smile, and
frowning at the same time with tears in her eyes, as if personifying
an April day. I should hke to hear her sing
" Said a smile to a tear."
There was no applause, and hah the boxes were empty, whilst
those who were there seemed merely to occupy them from the effect
of habit, and because this is the only evening amusement. The
prompter spoke so loud, that as
" Coming events cast their shadows before,"
every word was made known to the audience in confidence, before
it came out upon the stage officially. The whole pit smoked, the
galleries smoked, 'the boxes smoked, the prompter smoked, a long
stream of smoke curhng from his box, giving something oracular
and Delphic to his prophecies.
" The force of smoking could no further go."
The theatre is certainly unworthy of this fine city.
31st. — We have spent the day in Arisiting the castle of Chapultepec,
a short league from Mexico, the most haunted by recollections of
ah the traditionary sites of which Mexico can boast. Could these .
hoary cypresses speak, what tales might they not disclose, standing
there Avith their long gray beards, and outstretched venerable arms,
century after century : already old Avhen Montezuma was a boy, and
still A-igorous in the days of Bustamante ! There has the last of the
Aztec emperors wandered with his dark-eyed harem. Under the
shade of these gigantic trees he has rested, perhaps smoked his
" tobacco mingled with amber," and fallen to sleep, his dreams un-
haunted by visions of the stern taveller from the far-east, whose
sails even then might be Avithin sight of the shore. In these tanks
he has bathed. Here Avere Ms gardens, and his aviaries, and his
fish-ponds. Through these now tangled and deserted woods, he
may have been carried by his young nobles in his open htter,
under a splendid dais, stepping out upon the rich stuffs which his
slaves spread before him on the green and velvet turf.
And from the very rock where the castle stands, he may have
looked out upon his fertile valley and great capital, with its canoe-
covered lakes and outspreading villages and temples, and gardens of
flowers, no care for the future darkening the bright vision !
Tradition says, that now these caves and tanks and woods are
haunted by the shade of the conqueror's Indian love, the far-famed
Doiia Marina, but I think she would be afraid of meeting with the
wrathful spirit of the Indian emperor.
The _ castle itself, modern though it be, seems hke a tradition !
The Viceroy Galvez, who built it, is of a by-gone race ! The apart
ments are lonely and abandoned, the walls falling to ruin, the o-lass
of the windows and the carved work of the doors have been sold-

VICE-QUEEN. 57
and standing at this great height, exposed to every wind that
blows, it is rapidly f'alhng to decay. We Avere accompanied by
Count C  a, and received by a Mexican governor, who rarely
resides there, and who very civihy conducted us everywhere. But
Chapultepec is not a show-place. One must go there early in the
morning, when the dew is on the grass, or in the evening, when the
last rays of the sun are gilding with rosy hght the snowy summits
of the volcanoes ; and dismount from your horse, or step out of your
carriage, and wander forth without guide or object, or fixed time
for return.
We set off early, passing OArer a fine paved road, divided by a
great and sohd aqueduct of nine hundred arches, one of the two
great aqueducts by which fresh water is conveyed to the city, and
of which the two sources are in the hih of Chapultepec, and in that
of Santa Fe, at a much greater distance. When we arrived, the
sleepy soldiers, Avho were lounging before the gates, threw them
open to let the carriage enter, and we drew up in front of the great
cypress, known by the name of " Montezuma's Cypress," a most
stupendous tree — dark, solemn, and stately, its branches unmoved as
the light wind played amongst them, of most majestic height, and
forty-one feet in circumference. A second cypress standing near,
and of almost equal size, is even more graceful, and they, and all the
noble trees which adorn these speaking sohtudes, are covered with a
creeping plant, resembhng gray moss, hanging over every branch
hke long gray hair, giving them a most venerable and druidical
look. We wandered through the noble avenues, and rested under the
trees, and walked through the tangled shrubberies, bright with
flowers and coloured berries, and groped our way into the cave, and
stood by the large clear tank, and spent some time in the old garden;
and then got again into the carriage, that we might be dragged up
the precipitous ascent on which stands the castle, the construction of
which aroused the jealousy of the goA'ernment against the young
count, whose taste for the picturesque had induced him to choose
this elevated' site for his summer palace.
The interior was never finished; yet, even as it stands, it cost the
Spanish government three hundred thousand dollars. When we
look at its strong military capabihties and commanding position,
fortified with sahent wahs and parapets towards Mexico, and con
taining on its northern side great moats and subterranean vaults,
capable of holding a vast supply of provisions, the jealousy of the
government and their suspicions that it was a fortress masked as a
summer retreat, are accountable enough.
The Vice-Queen Galvez Avas celebrated for her beauty and goodness,
and was universally adored in Mexico. A sister of hers, who still
survives, and who paid me a visit the other day, says that her beauty
chiefly consisted in the exceeding fairness of her complexion, very
few blondes having then been seen in this part of the world.

58 NEW year's day.
From the terrace that runs round the castle, the view forms the
most magnificent panorama that can be imagined.^ The whole
valley of Mexico hes stretched out as in a map; the city itself, with
its innumerable churches and convents ; the two great aqueducts
which cross the plain; the avenues of elms and poplars which lead.
to the city; the villages, lakes and plains which surround it. To
the north, the magnificent cathedral of Our Lady of Guadalupe —
to the south, the villages of San Augustin, San Angel, and Tacu
baya, which seem imbosomed in trees, and look like an immense
garden. And if in the plains below there are many uncultivated
fields and many buildings falling to ruin, yet with its glorious
enclosure of mountains, above which tower the two mighty vol
canoes, Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl, the Gog and Magog of the
vahey, off whose giant sides great volumes of misty clouds were
rolling, and with its torquoise sky for ever smiling on the scene, the
whole landscape, as viewed from this height, is one of nearly un
paralleled beauty.
1st January, 1840. — New Year's Day ! The birth of the young
year is ushered in by no remarkable signs of festivity. More
ringing of bells, more chanting of mass, gayer dresses amongst the
peasants in the streets, and more carriages passing along, and the
ladies within rather more dressed than apparently they usually are,
when they do not intend to pay Aasits. In passing through the
Plaza this morning, our carriage suddenly drew up, and the servants
took off their hats. At the same moment, the whole population,
men, women, and children, venders and buyers, peasant and sefiora,
priest and layman, dropped on their knees, a picturesque sight.
Presently a coach came slowly along through the croAvd, Avith the
mysterious Eye painted on the panels, drawn by piebald horses,
and with priests within, bearing the divine symbols. On the bal
conies, in the shops, in the houses, and on the streets, every one
knelt while it passed, the httle beh giving warning of its approach.
We were then at the door of the palace, where we went this
morning to see the opening of Congress, the two houses being in
cluded in this building. The House of Representatives, though not
large, is handsome, and in good taste. Opposite to the presidential
chair is a full-length representation of Our Lady of Guadalupe.
Ah round the hah, which, is semicircular, are inscribed the names
of the heroes of independence, and that of the Emperor Augustin
Yturbide is placed on the right of the presidential chair, with his
sword hanging on the wah ; while on the left of the chief magistrate's
seat there is a vacant space ; perhaps destined for the name of another
emperor. The multitude of priests with their large shovel-hats, and
the entrance of the president in full uniform, announced by music
and a flourish of trumpets, and attended by his staff, rendered it as
anti-repubhcan-looking an assembly as one could wish to see. The
utmost decorum and tranquillity prevailed. The president made a
speech in a low and rather monotonous tone, which in the diplomates,.

THEATRE. 59
seat, where we were, was scarcely audible. No ladies were in the
house, myself excepted; which I am glad I was not aware of before
going, or I should perhaps have staid away.
Yesterday I received visits from the gentlemen of the diplomatic
corps, who are not in great numbers here. England, Belgium,
Prussia, and the United States, are the only countries at present
represented, Spain excepted. The French minister has not arrived
yet, but is expected in a few days. I was not sorry to hear Enghsh
spoken once more, and to meet with so gentlemanly a person as the
minister who for the last fourteen years has represented our island in
the Repubhc. His visit and a large packet of letters just received
from Paris and from the United- States, have made me feel as if the
distance from home were diminished by one hah.
This morning a very handsome dress was forwarded to me with
the comphments of a lady whom I do not know, the wife of General
 ; with a request that, if I should go to the fancy bah as a
Poblana peasant, I may wear this costume. It is a Poblana dress,
and very superb, consisting of a petticoat of maroon - coloured
merino, with gold fringe, gold bands and spangles ; an under-petti
coat, embroidered and trimmed with rich lace, to come below it.
The first petticoat is trimmed with gold up the sides, which are
sht open, and tied up with coloured ribbon. With this must be
worn a chemise, richly embroidered round the neck and sleeves,
and trimmed with lace ; a satin vest, open in front, and embroidered
in gold; a silk sash tied behind, the ends fringed Avith gold, and a
small silk handkerchief which crosses the neck, with gold fringe.
I had already another dress prepared, but I think this is the hand
somer of the two.
The actors have just cahed to inform C  n, that their " funcion
extraordinaria" in his honour, is to be given on the third, that a box
is prepared for us, and that the play is to be " Don John of Austria."*
4th. — Having sat through five acts last evening in the theatre, we
came home very tired. The play was awfully long, lasting from
eight o'clock till one in the morning. At the end of the first act,
the prefect and other dignitaries came round with much precipita
tion and carried off C  n to a large box in the centre, intended
for him ; for, not knowing which it was, we had gone to that of
the Countess C  a. The theatre looked much more decent than
before; being hghted up, and the boxes hung with silk draperies m
honour of the occasion. The ladies also were in full dress, and the
boxes crowded, so that one could scarcely recognise the house.
This morning we drove out to see the cathedral of Our Lady of
Guadalupe : C  n in one carriage with Count C  a, and the
Sefiora C  a and I in another, driven by Sefior A  -d, who is
a celebrated whip ; the carriage open, with handsome white horses,
frisones as they here call the northern horses, whether from Eng-

* Translated from the French of Casimir Delavigne.

60 THE VIRGIN OF GUADALUPE.
land or the United States, and which are much larger than the
spirited httle horses of the country. As usual, we were accom
panied by four armed outriders. .
We passed through miserable suburbs, ruined, dirty, and with a
comminghng of odours which I could boldly challenge those of
Cologne to rival. After leaving the town, the road_ is not par
ticularly pretty, but is for the most part a broad, straight avenue,
bounded on either side by trees.
At Guadalupe, on the hih of Tepayac, there stood, m days of
yore, the Temple of Tonantzin, the goddess of earth and of corn,
a mild deity, Avho rejected human victims, and was only to be pro
pitiated by the sacrifices of turtle-doves, swahows, pigeons, &c.
She was the protectress of the Totonoqui Indians. The spacious
church, which now stands at the foot of the mountain, is one_ of
the richest in Mexico. Having put on veils, no bonnets being
permitted within the precincts of a church, we entered this far-
famed sanctuary, and were dazzled by the profusion of silver Avith
which it is ornamented.
The divine painting of the virgin of Guadalupe, represents her
in a blue cloak covered Avith stars, a garment of crimson and gold,
her hands clasped, and her foot on a crescent, supported by a
cherub. The painting is coarse, and only remarkable on account
of the tradition attached to it.
We afterAvards visited a smah chapel, coA-ered by a dome, built
over a boiling spring, whose waters possess miraculous qualities,
and bought crosses and medals which have touched the holy image,
and pieces of white ribbon, marked Avith the measure of the
Virgin's hands and feet. We chmbed (albeit very warm) by a steep
path to the top of the hill, where there is another chapel, from
which there is a superb view of Mexico ; and beside it, a sort of
monument in the form of the sails of a ship, erected by a grateful
Spaniard, to commemorate Ms escape from shipwreck, which he
beheved to be owing to the intercession of Our Lady of Guada
lupe. We then went to the vihage to cah on the bishop, the
YLustrisimo Senor Campos, whom Ave found in his canonicals, and
who seems a good little old man, but no conjurer ; although I
beheve he had the honour of bringing up his cousin, Seiior Posada,
destined to be Archbishop of Mexico. We found him quietly
seated in a large, simply-furnished room, and apparently buried
over some huge volumes, so that he Avas not at first aware of our
entrance. A picture of the Virgin of Guadalupe hung on the Avail, which
C  n having noticed, he observed that he could not answer for
its being a very faithful resemblance, as Our Lady did not appear
often, not so often as people supposed. Then folding his hands,
and looking doAvn, he proceeded to recount the history of the
miraculous apparition, pretty much as fohows :
In 1531, ten years and four months after the conquest of Mexico

THE LEGEND. 61
the fortunate Indian whose name was Juan Diego, and who was
a native of Cuatitlan, went to the suburb of Tlaltelolco to learn the
Christian doctrine which the Franciscan monks taught there. As
he was passing by the mountain of Tepeyac, the Holy Virgin
suddenly appeared before him and ordered him to go, in her name,
to the bishop, the Ylustrisimo D. Fr. Juan de Zumarraga, and to
make known to him that she desired to have a place of worship
erected, in her honour, on that spot. The next day the Indian
passed by the same place, when again the Holy Virgin appeared
before him, and demanded the result of Ins commission. Juan
Diego replied, that in spite of his endeavours, he had not been
able to obtain an audience of the bishop. " Return," said the
Virgin, " and say that it is I, the Virgin Mary, the Mother of
God, who sends thee." Juan Diego obeyed the divine orders, yet
still the bishop would not give him credence, merely desiring him
to bring some sign or token of the Virgin's will. He returned
with this message on the twelfth of December, Avhen, for the third
time, he beheld the apparition of the Virgin. She now com
manded him to chmb to the top of the barren rock of Tepeyac, to
gather the roses which he should find there, and to bring them to
her. The humble messenger obeyed, though weh knowing, that
on that spot were neither flowers nor any trace of vegetation.
Nevertheless, he found the roses, which he gathered and brought
to the Virgin Mary, who, throwing them into his tilma, said,
" Return, show these to the bishop, and tell him that these are the
credentials of thy mission." Juan Diego • set out for the episcopal
house, which stood on the ground occupied by the hospital, now
called San Juan de Dios, and when he found himself in the pre
sence of the prelate, he unfolded his tilma to show him the roses,
when there appeared, imprinted on it the miraculous image which
has existed for more than three centuries.
'When the bishop beheld it, he Avas seized with astonishment
and awe, and conveyed it in a solemn procession to his own oratory,
and shortly after this splendid church was erected in honour of the
patroness of New Spain. " From all parts of the country," con
tinued the old bishop, " people flocked in crowds to see Our Lady of
Guadalupe, and esteem it an honour to obtain sight of her. What
then must be my happiness, who can see her most gracious majesty
every hour and every minute of the day ! I would not quit Guada
lupe for any other part of the world, nor for any temptation that could
be held out to me;" and the pious man remained for a few minutes
as if wrapt in ecstasy. That he was sincere in his assertions, there
could be no doubt. As evening prayers were about to begin, we
accompanied him to the cathedral. An old Avoman opened the
door for us as we passed out. " Have my chocolate ready when I
return," said the bishop. "Si padrecito!" said the old woman,
dropping upon her knees, in which posture she remained for some
minutes. As we passed along the street, the sight of the reverend

62 VISITS.
man had the same effect ; ah fell on their knees as he passed, pre
cisely as if the host were carried by, or the shock of an earth
quake were felt. Arrived at the door of the cathedral, he gave us
his hand, or rather his pastoral amethyst, to kiss.
The organ sounded fine as it pealed through the old cathedral,
and the setting sun poured his rays in through the Gothic windows
with a rich and glowing hght. The church was crowded with peo
ple of the village, but especially with leperos, counting their beads,
and suddenly in the midst of an " Ave Maria Purisima," flinging
themselves and their rags in our path with a " Por el amor de la San-
tisima Virgen !" and if this does not serve their purpose, they appeal
to your domestic sympathies. From men they entreat rehef ' ' By the
life of the Senorita." From women, " By the life of the httle child !"
From children it is " By the hfe of your mother!" And a mix
ture of piety and superstitious feeling makes most people, women at
least, draw out their purses.
Count C  a has promised to send me to-morrow a box of mos
quitoes' eggs, of which tortillas are made, which are considered a
great dehcacy. Considering mosquitoes as small winged cannibals, I
was rather shocked at the idea, but they pretend that these which are
from the Laguna, are a superior race of creatures, which do not
sting. In fact the Spanish historians mention that the Indians
used to eat bread made of the eggs which the fly cahed agayacatl
laid on the rushes of the lakes, and which they (the Spaniards)
found very palatable.

LETTER THE NINTH.
Visits from Spaniards-Visit from the President-Disquisition— Poblana Dress
—Bernardo the Matador - Bull-fight extraordinary- Plaza de Toros-
Fireworks - Portrait of C_n-Fancy Ball-Dress - Costume of the
Patronesses-Beauty in Mexico-Doctor's Visit-Cards of /aire part-Mar-
Si6 M *,oma"-T°1,et «• doming Visits of Ceremony-Attempt at
Robbery-Murder of a Consul-La Giiera Rodrisuez-Dr: Plan-M. de
Humboldt— Anecdote— Former Customs. 5th January.
Yesterday (Sunday), a great day here for visiting after mass is
over. We had a concourse of Spaniards, ah of whom seemed anxious
to know whether or not I intended to wear a Poblana dress at the
tancy bail, and seemed wonderfully interested about it Two

WARNINGS. 63
young ladies or women of Puebla, introduced by Senor  came
to proffer their services in giAang me all the necessary particulars, and
dressed the hair of Josefa, a httle Mexican girl, to show me how
it should be arranged ; mentioned several things still wanting, and
told me that every one was much pleased at the idea of my going in a
Poblana dress. I was rather surprised that every one should trouble
themselves about it. About twelve o'clock the president, in full
¦uniform, attended by his aides-de-camp, paid me a Arisit, and sat
about half an hour, very amiable as usual. Shortly after came
more visits, and just as we had supposed they were ah concluded,
and we were going to dinner, we were told that the secretary of
state, the ministers of Avar and of the interior, and others, were in
the drawing-room. And what do you think was the purport of
their visit ? To adjure me by ah that was most alarming, to dis
card the idea of making my appearance in a Poblana dress!
They assured us that Poblanas generally were femmes de rien, that
they wore no stockings, and that the wife of the Spanish minister
should by no means assume, even for one evening, such a costume.
I brought in my dresses, showed their length and their propriety,
but in vain ; and, in fact, as to their being in the right, there could
be no doubt, and nothing but a kind motive could, have induced
them to take this trouble ; so I yielded with a good grace, and
thanked the cabinet council for their timely warning, though fear
ing, that in this land of procrastination, it would be difficult to
procure another dress for the fancy bah ; for you must know, that
our luggage is still toihng its weary way, on the backs of mules,
from Vera Cruz to the capital. They had scarcely gone, when
Sefior  brought a message from several of the principal ladies
here, whom we do not even know, and who had requested, that as
a stranger, I should be informed of the reasons which rendered the
Poblana dress objectionable in this country, especially on any pub-
he occasion hke this ball. I was really thankful for my escape.
Just as I was dressing for dinner, a note was brought, marked
reservada (private), the contents of which appeared to me more odd
than pleasant. I have since heard, however, that the writer, Don
Jose Arnaiz, is an old man, and a sort of privileged character, who
interferes in every thing, whether it concerns him or not. I translate
it for your benefit.
" The dress of a Poblana is that of a woman of no character. The
lady of the Spanish minister is a lady in every sense of the word.
However much she may have compromised herself, she ought nei
ther to go as a Poblana, nor in any other character but her own. So
says to the Sefior de C  n, Jose Arnaiz, who esteems him as
much as possible."
6th. — Early this morning, this being the day of the " buh-fight
extraordinary," placards were put up, as I understand, on all the
corners of the streets, announcing it, accompanied by a portrait of
C  n ! Count C  a came soon after breakfast, accompanied

64 BULL-FIGHT.
by Bernardo, the first matador, whom he brought to present to us.
I send you the white satin note of invitation, with its silver lace and
tassels, to show you how beautifully they can get up such things
here. The matador is a handsome but heavy-looking man, though
said to be active and skilful. To-morrow I shah write you an
account of my first bull-fight.
7th. — Yesterday, towards the afternoon, there were great fears
of rain, which would have caused a postponement of the combat;
however, the day cleared up, the bulls httle knowing how much
their fate depended upon the clouds. A box in the centre, with a
carpet and a silver lamp, had been prepared for us; but we went
Avith our friends, the C  as, into their box adjoining. The scene,
to me especiahy, who have not seen the magnificence of the Madrid
arena, was animating and brilliant in the highest degree. Fancy
an immense amphitheatre, with four great tiers of boxes, and a
range of uncovered seats in front, the whole crowded almost to
suffocation ; the boxes filled with ladies in full dress, and the seats
below by gaily-dressed and most enthusiastic spectators ; two mihtary
bands of music, playing beautiful airs from the operas ; an extraor
dinary variety of brilliant costumes, ah lighted up by the eternally
deep blue sky; ladies and peasants, and officers in full uniform, and
you may conceive that it must have been altogether a varied and
curious spectacle.
About half-past six, a flourish of trumpets announced the presi
dent, who came in uniform with his staff, and took his seat to the
music of " Guerra ! Guerra ! I belhci trombi." Shortly after the
matadors and picadors, the former on foot, the latter on horseback,
made their entry, saluting all round the arena, and were received
with loud cheering.
Bernardo's dress of blue and silver was very superb, and cost him
five hundred dollars. The signal was given — the gates were thrown
open, and a buh sprang into the arena ; not a great, fierce-looking
animal, as they are in Spain, but a small, angry, wild-looking beast,
Avith a troubled eye.
" Thrice sounds the clarion ; lo ! the signal falls,
The den expands, and expectation mute
Gapes round the silent circle's peopled walls.
Bounds with one lashing spring the mighty brute,
And, wildly staring, spurns with'sounding foot
The sand, nor blindly rushes on his foe ;
Here, there, he points his threatening front, to suit
His first attack, wide waving to and fro
His angry tail ; red rolls his eye's dilated glow."
A picture equally correct and poetical. That first pose of the
bull is superb ! Pasta, in her Medea, did not surpass it. Mean
while the matadors and the banderilleros shook their coloured scarfs
at him— the picadors poked at him with their lances. He rushed
at the first, and tossed up the scarfs which they threw at him while

FANCY BALL. 65
they sprung over the arena ; galloped after the others, striking the
horses, so that along with their riders they occasionally rohed in. the
dust ;_both, however, almost instantly recovering their equilibrium,
in which there is no time to be lost. Then the matadors would
throw fireworks, crackers adorned with streaming ribbons, which
stuck on his horns, and as he tossed his head, enveloped him in a
blaze of fire. Occasionahy the picador would catch hold of the
bull's tail, and passing it under his own right leg, wheel his horse
round, force the bullock to gallop backwards, and throw Hm on his
face. Maddened with pain, streaming with blood, stuck full of darts,
and covered with fireworks, the unfortunate beast went galloping
round and round, plunging blindly at man and horse, and fre
quently trying to leap the barrier, but driven back by the waving
hats and shouting of the crowd. At last, as he stood at bay, and
nearly exhausted, the matador ran up and gave him the mortal
blow, considered a pecuhar proof of skill. The bull stopped, as if
he felt that his hour were come, staggered, made a few plunges at
nothing, and fell. A finishing stroke, and the bull expired.
The trumpets sounded, the music played. Four horses galloped
in tied to a yoke, to which the bull was fastened, and swiftly
dragged out of the arena. This last part had a fine effect, remind
ing one of a Roman sacrifice. In a similar manner, eight bulls were
done to death. The scene is altogether fine, the address amusing,
but the wounding and tormenting of the bull is sickening, and as
here the tips of his horns are blunted, one has more sympathy with
him than with his human adversaries. It cannot be good to accus
tom a people to such bloody sights.
Yet let me confess, that though at first I covered my face and
could not look, little by httle I grew so much interested in the
scene, that I could not take my eyes off it, and I can easily under
stand the pleasure taken in these barbarous diversions, by those
accustomed to them from childhood.
The bull-fight having terminated amidst loud and prolonged
cheering from the crowd, a tree of fireworks, erected in the midst
of the arena, was hghted, and amidst a blaze of coloured hght,
appeared, first the Arms of the Republic, the Eagle and Nopal ;
and above, a full-length portrait of C  n ! represented by a
figure in a blue and silver uniform. Down feh the Mexican eagle
with a crash at his feet, while he remained burning brightly, and
lighted up by fireworks, in the midst of tremendous shouts and
cheers. Thus terminated this "funcion extraordinaria ;" and when
ah was over, we went to dine at Countess C  a's, had some music
in the evening, and afterwards returned home tolerably tired.
10th. — The fancy ball took place last evening in the theatre, and
although, owing either to the change of chmate, or to the damp
ness of the house, I have been obliged to keep my room since the
F

66 FANCY BALL.
day of the bull-fight, and to dechne a pleasant dinner at the Enghsh
Minister's, I thought it advisable to make my appearance there.
Having discarded the costume of the hght-headed Poblamanas, I
adopted that of a virtuous Roman Contadina, simple enough to be
run up in one day ; a white skirt, red bodice, with blue ribbons,
and lace veil put on square behind ; a propos to which head-dress, it
is very common amongst the Indians to wear a piece of stuff folded
square, and laid flat upon the head, in this Italian fashion ; and as
it is not fastened, I cannot imagine how they trot along, without
letting it fall.
We went to the theatre about eleven, and found the entree,
though crowded with carriages, very quiet and orderly. The coup
d'ceil on entering was extremely gay, and certainly very amusing.
The bah, given for the benefit of the poor, was under the patronage
of the ladies C  a, G  a, Guer  a, and others, but such
was the original dirtiness and bad condition of the theatre, that to
make it decent, they had expended nearly ah the proceeds. As it
was, and considering the various drawbacks, the arrangements were
very good. Handsome lustres had superseded the lanterns Avith their
tallow candles, the boxes were hung with bright silk draperies, and
a canopy of the same drawn up in the form of a tent, covered the
whole ball-room. The orchestra also was tolerably good. The boxes
were filled with ladies, presenting an endless succession of China crape
shawls of every colour and variety, and a monotony of diamond ear
rings ; while in the theatre itself, if ever a bah might be termed a
fancy-bah, this was that bah. Of Swiss peasants, Scotch peasants, and
ah manner of peasants, there were a goodly assortment ; as also of
Turks, Highlanders, and men in plain clothes. But being pubhc,
it was not, of course, select, and amongst many well-dressed people,
there were hundreds who, assuming no particular character, had
exerted their imagination to appear merely fanciful, and had suc
ceeded. One, for example, would have a scarlet satin petticoat, and
over it a pink satin robe, with scarlet ribbons to match. Another,
a short blue satin dress, beneath which appeared a handsome purple
satin petticoat ; the whole trimmed with yehow bows. They looked
hke the signs of the zodiac. Ah had diamonds and pearls ; old and
young, and middle-aged ; including httle children, of whom there
were many.
The lady-patronesses were very elegant. The Sefiora de Gu  a,
wore a head-dress in the form of a net, entirely composed of large
pearls and diamonds ; in itself a fortune. The Sefiora de C  a,
as Madame de la Vahiere, in black velvet and diamonds, looking
pretty, as usual, but the cold of the house obhged her to muffle up
in furs and boas, and so to hide her dress. The Sefiora de G  a,
as Mary, Queen of Scots, in black velvet and pearls, with a splendid
diamond necklace, was extremely handsome ; she wore a cap, intro
duced by the Albini, in the character of the Scottish Queen, but

FANCY BALL. 67
which, though pretty in itself, is a complete deviation from the
beautiful simphcity of the real Queen-Mary cap. She certainly
looked as if she had arrived at her prime without knowing Fother-
ingay._ Various ladies were introduced to me who are only waiting to
receive our cards of faire part before they cah. Amongst the
girls, the best dresses that I observed were the Sefioritas de F  d,
the one handsome, with the figure and face of a Spanish peasant ;
the other much more graceful and intelligent-looking, though with
less actual beauty. However, so many of the most fashionable
people were in their boxes, that I am told this is not a good occasion
on which to judge of the beauty or style of toilette of the Mexican
women ; besides which, these fancy bahs being uncommon, they
would probably look better in their usual costume. Upon the
whole, I saw few striking beauties, httle grace, and very httle good
dancing. There was too much velvet and satin, and the dresses
were too much loaded. The diamonds, though superb, were fre
quently ih-set. The dresses, compared with the actual fashion, were
absurdly short, and the feet, naturally small, were squeezed into
shoes stih smaller, which is destructive to grace, whether in walking
or dancing.
I saw many superb pairs of eyes, and beautiful hands and arms,
perfect models for a sculptor, the hands especially ; and very few
good complexions.
There was a young gentleman pointed out to me as being in the
costume of a Highlander ! How I wished that Sir Wilham Gum
ming, Macleod of Macleod, or some veritable Highland chieftain
could suddenly have appeared to annihilate him, and show the
people here what the dress reahy is ! There were various unfortu
nate children, bundled up in long satin or velvet dresses, covered
with blonde and jewels, and with artificial flowers in their hair.
The room was excessively cold, nor was the ancient odour of the
theatre entirely obhterated ; nor indeed do I think that all the per
fumes of Arabia would overpower it. Having walked about, and
admired ah the varieties of fancy costumes, I, being nearly frozen,
went to the Countess C  a's box on the pit tier, and enveloped
myseh in a cloak. They pointed out the most distinguished persons
in the boxes, amongst others the family of the E  sr who seem
very handsome, with brilliant colours and fine teeth. We remained
until three in the morning and dechned ah offers of refreshment,
though, after all, a cup of hot chocolate would not have been amiss.
There was supper somewhere, but I beheve attended only by gentle
men. I had the satisfaction in passing out to see numerous ladies on
their partners' arms, and all bedizened as they were with finery, stop
under the lamps, and hght their cigars,— *ool and pretty.
16th. — I have passed nearly a week in a shght fever ; shivering
and hot. I was attended by a doctor of the country, who seems the
most harmless creature imaginable. Every day he felt my pulse, and
f2

68 LETTERS.
gave me some httle innocent mixture. But what he especially gave
me was a lesson in pohte conversation. Every day we had the fol
lowing dialogue, as he rose to take leave :
" Madam ! (this by the bedside) I am at your service."
" Many thanks, sir."
" Madam ! (this at the foot of the bed) know me for your most
humble servant."
" Good morning, sir."
" Madam ! (here he stopped beside a table) I kiss your feet."
" Sir, I kiss your hand."
" Madam ! (this near the door) my poor house, and all in it, myself,
though useless, ah I have, is yours."
" Many thanks, sir."
He turns round and opens the door, again turning round as he
does so,
" Adieu, madam! your servant."
" Adieu, sir."
He goes out, partly reopens the door, and puts in his head,
" Good morning, madam !"
This civihty, so lengthened out, as if parting were such " sweet
sorrow," between doctor and patient, seems rather misplaced. It is
here considered more pohte to say Senorita than Sefiora, even to
married women, and the lady of the house is generally cahed by her
servants, " La Nifia," the httle girl, even though she be over eighty.
This last custom is still more common in Havana, where the old
negresses, who have always hved in the family, and are accustomed
to call their young mistress by this name, never change, whatever
be her age.
I have received a packet of letters which have done me more
.good than the old doctor's visits. The captain left us yesterday, and
took charge of a box of chocolate stamped with various figures, and
of some curious dulces for you. Our cards, giving the Mexicans the
tardy information of our arrival, were sent out some days ago. I
copy one, that you may have a specimen of the style, which looks
for ah the world hke that of a shop-advertisement, purporting that
Don  makes wigs, dresses hair, and so forth, while Dona 
washes lace, and does up fine linen.
" Don A  C  de la B  , Enviado Extraordinario y
Ministro Plenipotenciario de S. M. C. cerca de la Repubhca
Mexicana; y su Esposa, Dofia F  E  C  de la B  ;
Participan a su Llegada a este Capital, y se ofrecen a su disposicion,
en la Plazuela de Buenavista, No. 2."*
_ 18th. — For these last few days our rooms have been filled with
visiters, and my eyes are scarcely yet accustomed to the display of
* Don A  C  de la B-

-Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Pleni
potentiary from H. C. M. j and his Lady, Dona F  E  C  de la
B  ; Inform you of their arrival in this capital, and put themselves at your
disposal, in the street of Buenavista, No. 2.

DRESSES. 69
diamonds and pearls, silks, satins, blondes and velvets, in which the
ladies have paid their first visits of etiquette. A few of the dresses I
shah record for your benefit, not as being richer than the others, but
that I happen to recollect them best. — The Marquesa de San Roman,
an old lady who has travelled a great deal in Europe, and is very
distinguished for talents and information. She has the Grand Cross
of Maria Louisa of Spain, is of a noble Venetian family, and aunt to
the Duke of Canizzaro. Her dress was a very rich black Genoa
velvet, black blonde mantilla, and a very splendid parure of diamonds.
She seems in exceedingly dehcate health. She and her contempo
raries are fast fading away, the last records of the days of Viceroyalty.
In their place a new race have started up, whose manners and appear
ance have httle of the vieille cour about them ; chiefly, it is said,
wives of military men, sprung from the hotbeds of the Revolutions,
ignorant and full of pretension, as parvenus who have risen by chance
and not by merit must be. I continue my hst after the fashion of
the Court Journal.
Countess de S  o. Underdress of rich violetsatin, gown of black
blonde, mantilla of black blonde, diamond earrings, five or six large
diamond brooches fastening the mantilla, necklace of large pearls and
diamond sevigne. The Sefiora S  . Dress of white satin, gown
of white blonde, white blonde mantilla, pearls, diamonds, and white
satin shoes. Madame S  r, black velvet dress, white blonde
mantilla, pearls, diamonds, short sleeves, and white satin shoes. The
Sefiora de A  d. Fawn-coloured satin dress, black blonde mantilla,
diamonds, and black satin shoes.
The Sefiora B  a, the wife of a General, extremely rich, and
who has the handsomest house in Mexico. Dress of purple velvet,
embroidered all over with flowers of white silk, short sleeves, and em
broidered corsage ; white satin shoes and bas a jour; a deep flounce
of Mechhn appearing below the velvet dress, which was short. A
mantiha of black blonde, fastened by three diamond aigrettes. Dia
mond earrings of extraordinary size. A diamond necklace of im
mense value, and beautifully set. A necklace of pear pearls, valued
at twenty thousand dollars. A diamond sevigne. A gold chain
going three times round the neck, and touching the knees. On
every finger two diamond rings, like little watches. As no other
dress was equally magnificent, with her I conclude my description,
only observing that no Mexican lady has yet paid me her first morn
ing visit without diamonds. They have few opportunities for dis
playing their jewels, so that were it not on the occasion of some such
morning visit of etiquette, the diamonds would he in their cases,
wasting their serene rays in darkness.
Last night an attempt was made to break into the house, but our
fine httle buh-dog Hercules, a present from Sefior A  d, kept his
ground so well, and barked so furiously, that the servants were
awakened, even the porter, the soundest slumberer amongst them ;
and the robbers escaped without doing further mischief than inflict-

70 ZEAL.
ing a severe wound on the poor animal's paw, which has made him
for the present quite lame.
Apropos to which matters, a most cruel murder, of which I have
just been hearing the particulars, was committed not very long ago
in this neighbourhood, upon Mr. M  , the Swiss Consul. _ He was
also a leather-merchant, and one morning having sent out his porter
on some commission, a carriage drove up to the door, and three gen
tlemen presented themselves to Mr. M  , requesting to speak to
him on business. He begged them to walk in; and there entered a
general in uniform, a young officer, and a monk. Mr. M  re
quested to be informed of their business, when suddenly the general,
seizing hold of him, whilst the others went to secure the door, ex
claimed, " We have not come to hear about your goods, we want
your money." The poor man, astounded at perceiving the nature of
his customers, assured them he kept but httle money in the house,
but proceeded instantly to open his private drawers, and empty their
contents, amounting, in fact, to a trifle of some few hundred dollars.
Finding that he had indeed no more to give them they prepared to
depart, when the monk said " We must kill him, or he will recognise
us." " No," said the officers, " leave him and come along. There
is ho danger." " Go on," said the monk, " I follow;" and, turning
back, stabbed the Consul to the heart. The three then re-entered the
carriage, and drove off at full speed. A few minutes afterwards the
porter returning found his master bathed in blood, and rushing out
to a neighbouring gambhng-house gave the alarm. Several gentle
men ran to his assistance, but he died an hour after, haAdng given ah
the particulars of the dress and appearance of his murderers, and that
of their carriage. By these tokens they were soon afterwards dis
covered, and by the energy of the Governor, then Count C  a,
they were arrested and hanged upon the trees in front of our house,
together with a real Mexican Colonel, who had kindly lent the
ruffians his carriage for the occasion. It is seldom that crime here
meets Avith so prompt a punishment.
Our friend, Count C  a, when Governor of Mexico, was cele-
bratedforhis energyin " el persiguimiento de los ladrones," (persecuting
the robbers,) as it is cahed. It is said upon one occasion his zeal
carried him rather far. Various robberies having been committed
in the city, he had received a hint from the government, that the
escape of the perpetrators was considered by them as a proof that he
had grown lukewarm in the pubhc service. A few days afterwards,
riding in the streets, he perceived a notorious robber, who, the
moment he observed himself recognised, darted down another street
with the swiftness of .an arrow. The Governor pursued bim on
horseback; the robber made all speed towards the Square, and rushed
into the sanctuary of the Cathedral. The Count' galloped in after
him, and dragged him from his place of refuge near the altar. This
violation of the church's sanctity was, of course, severely repri-

M. DE HUMBOLDT. 71
manded, but, as the Governor remarked, they could no longer ac
cuse him of want of zeal in the discharge of his duty.
He took as his porter the captain of a gang of robbers, ordering Mm
to_ stand at the door, and to seize any of his former acquaintances who
might pass, his own pardon depending on his conduct in this respect.
Riding out one day to his country place with his lady, this man ac
companying them as a servant, they were overtaken by a messenger,
who desired the return of the Count to the city, upon some urgent
and important business. It was already dusk, yet the Count, trust
ing to the honour of the robber, ordered him to conduct his lady to
the hacienda, and she alone on horseback, with this alarming guide,
performed her journey in safety.
_ Before I conclude this letter, I must tell you that I received a
visit this morning from a very remarkable character, well known
here by the name of La Giiera (the fair) Rodriguez, said to have
been many years ago celebrated by Humboldt as the most beautiful
woman he had seen in the whole course of his travels. Considering
the lapse of time which has passed since that distinguished traveller
visited these parts, I was almost astonished when her card was sent
up with a request for admission, and stih more so to find that in
spite of years and of the furrows which it pleases Time to plough in
the loveliest faces, La Giiera retains a profusion of fair curls without
one gray hair, a set of beautiful white teeth, very fine eyes, and
great vivacity.
Her sister, the Marquesa de Juluapa, lately dead, is said to have
been also a woman of great talent and extraordinary conversational
powers ; she is another of the ancient noblesse who has dropped off.
The physician who attended her in her last illness, a Frenchman of
the name of Plan, in great repute here, has sent in a bill to her exe
cutors of ten thousand dohars, which, although it does not excite any
great astonishment, the family refuse to pay, and there is a lawsuit in
consequence. The extortions of medical men in Mexico, especially
of foreign physicians, have arrived at such a height, that a person of
moderate fortune must hesitate before putting himself into their
hands* A rich old lady in dehcate health, and with no particular
complaint, is a surer fund for them than a silver-mine.
I found La Giiera very agreeable, and a perfect living chronicle.
She is married to her third husband, and had three daughters, all
celebrated beauties; the Countess de Regla, who died in New York,
and was buried in the cathedral there; the Marquesa de Guadalupe,
also dead, and the Marquesa de A  —a, now a handsome widow.
We spoke of Humboldt, and talking of herself as of a third person,
* The Mexican Government has since taken this matter into consideration,
and is making regulations which render it necessary for a medical man to possess
a certain degree of knowledge, and to have resided a specified time in the city,
before he is permitted to practise ; they are also occupied in fixing a certain sum
for medical attendance.

72 ANECDOTE.
she related to me all the particulars of his first visit, andhis admira
tion of her; that she was then very young, though married, and the
mother of two children, and that when he came to visit her mother,
she was sitting sewing in a corner where the Baron did not perceive
her; until talking very earnestly on the subject of cochineal, he
inquired if he could visit a certain district where there was a plant
ation of nopals. "To be sure," said La Giiera from her corner;
" we can take M. de Humboldt there;" whereupon he first perceiv
ing her, stood amazed, and at length exclaimed, " Valgame Dios!
who is that girl ?" Afterwards he was constantly with her, and
more captivated, it is said, by her wit than by her beauty; consider
ing her a sort of western Madame de Stael; ah which leads me to
suspect that the grave traveller was considerably under the influence
of her fascinations, and that neither mines nor mountains, geogra
phy nor geology, petrified shells nor alpenkalkstein, had occupied him
to the exclusion of a slight stratum of flirtation. It is a comfort to
think that " sometimes even the great Humboldt nods."
One of La Giiera's stories is too original to be lost. A lady of high
rank having died in Mexico, her relatives undertook to commit her
to her last resting-place, habited according to the then prevailing
fashion, in her most magnificent dress, that which she had worn at
her wedding. This dress was a wonder of luxury, even in Mexico.
It was entirely composed of the finest lace, and the flounces were
made of a species of point which cost fifty dollars a vara (the Mex
ican yard). Its equal was unknown. It was also ornamented and
looped up at certain intervals with bows of ribbon very richly em
broidered in gold. In this dress, the Condesa de  was laid in
her coffin, thousands of dear friends crowding to view her beautiful
costume de mart, and at length she was placed in her tomb, the key
of which was intrusted to the sacristan.
From the tomb to the opera is a very abrupt transition ; neverthe
less, both have a share in this story. A company of French dancers
appeared in Mexico, a twentieth-rate ballet, and the chief danseuse
was a little French damsel, remarkable for the shortness of her robes,
her coquetry, and her astonishing pirouettes. On the night of a
favourite ballet, Mademoiselle Pauhne made her entree in a succes
sion of pirouettes, and poising on her toe, looked round for approba
tion, when a sudden thrill of horror, accompanied by a murmur of
indignation, pervaded the assembly. Mademoisehe Pauhne was
equipped in the very dress in which the defunct countess had been
buried! Lace, point flounces, gold ribbons; impossible to mistake
it. Hardly had the curtain dropped, when the httle danseuse found
herself surrounded by competent authorities, questioning her as to
where and how she had obtained her dress. She replied that she
had bought it at an extravagant price from a French modiste in the
city. She had rifled no tomb, but honestly paid down golden
ounces, in exchange for her lawful property. To the modiste's went
the officers of justice. She also pleaded innocent. She had bought

HOUSES. 73
it of a man who had brought it to her for sale, and had paid him
much more than a poids d'or, as indeed it was worth. By dint of
further investigation, the man was identified, and proved to be the
sacristan of _San  . Short-sighted sacristan ! lie was arrested
and thrown into prison, and one benefit resulted from his cupidity,
since m order to avoid throwing temptation in the way of future
sacristans, it became the custom, after the body had lain in state for
some time m magnificent robes, to substitute a plain dress previous
to placing the coffin in the vault. A poor vanity after all.
I was told by a lady here, that on the death of her grandchild, he
was not only enveloped in rich lace, but the diamonds of three
Condesas and four Marquesas were collected together and put on
him, necklaces, bracelets, rings, brooches, and tiaras, to the value of
several hundred thousand dollars. The street was hung with drape
ries, and aband of music played, whilst he was visited by ah the
titled relatives of the family in his dead splendour, poor little baby !
Yet his mother mourned for him as for all her bhghted hopes, and
the last scion of a noble house. Grief shows itself in different ways ;
yet one might think that when it seeks consolation in display, it
must be less profound than when it shuns it.

LETTER THE TENTH.
San Fernando — House of Perez de Galvez — A Removal — Size of the Houses
— Old Monastery — View by Sunset — Evening Visits — Mexican Etiquette —
A Night-view from the Azotea — Tacubaya — Magueys — Making of Pulque
— Organos and Nopal — Environs of Mexico — Miracle — Hacienda — View
from the Countess C  a's House — Arzobispado — Anecdote — Comparative
View of Beauty — Indians — Rancheritas — Mexican Cordiality — Masses for
the Dead — San Augustin — Form of Invitation — Death of a Senator — A
Mistake. San Fernando, 25th February.
We have been engaged for some time past in the disagreeable
occupations, first of finding, then of furnishing, and lastly of enter
ing into a new house. We were very anxious to hire that of the
Marquesa de Juluapa, which is pretty, weh situated, and has a gar
den ; but the agent, after making us wait for his decision more than
a fortnight, informed us that he had determined to sell it. House-
rent is extremely high ; nothing tolerable to be had under two
thousand five hundred dohars per annum, unfurnished. There is

74 SUNSET.
also an extraordinary custom of paying a sum cahed traspaso, some
times to the amount of fourteen thousand dohars, taking your
chance of having the money repaid you by the next person who
takes the house. We next endeavoured to procure a house not far
from our present residence, a palace in fact, which I mentioned to
you before as having been occupied at one time by Santa Anna, and
at another by the Enghsh Legation, but the present proprietor can
not be prevailed upon to let it. It has a beautiful garden and olive-
ground, but is not a very secure abode, except Avith a guard of
soldiers. We at length came to the determination of taking up our
quarters here. It is a handsome new house, built by General G  ,
and has the fault of being only too large. Built in a square hke ah
Mexican houses, the ground floor, which has a stone-paved court
with a fountain in the middle, contains about twenty rooms, besides
outhouses, coach-house, stables, pigeon-house, garden-house, &c. The
second story where the principal apartments are, the first-floor being
chiefly occupied by servants, has the same number of rooms, with
coal-room, wood-room, bath-room, and water everywhere, in the
court below, in the garden, and on the azotea, which is very spa
cious, and where, were the house our own, we might build a mira-
dor, and otherwise ornament it ; but to build for another is too
heroic. The great defect in ah these houses is their want of finish;
the great doors that wih not shut properly, and the great windows '
down to the ground, which in the rainy season wih certainly admit
water, making these residences appear something hke a cross-breed
between a palace and a barn ; the splendour of the one, the discom
fort of the other. I wih not inflict upon you the details of ah our
petty annoyances caused by procrastinating tradesmen. Suffice it to
say, that the Mexican manana (to-morrowj, if properly translated,
means never. As to prices, I conclude we pay for being foreigners
and diplomates, and Avill not beheve in a first experience. However,
we are settled at last, and find the air here much purer than in the
heart of the city, while the maladies and epidemics so common
there, are here almost unknown. Behind this house is a very small
garden, bounded on one side by the great wall which encloses the
orchard of the old monastery of San Fernando, Avithin whose vast
precincts only seven or eight monks now hnger. It is an immense
building, old and gray, and time-worn, with church adjoining, and
spacious lands appertaining to it. At all times it is picturesque, but
by moonlight or sunset it forms a most olden-time vision.
At that hour, standing alone in the high-wahed garden when the
convent bells are tolling, and the convent itself, with its iron-barred,
Gothic windows, and its gray-green ohve-trees that look so unreal
and lifeless, is tinged by the last rays of the sun, the whole seems
hke a vision, or a half-remembered, sketch, or a memory of ro
mance. Then the sun sets behind the snow-crowned mountains with a
bright fiery red, covering their majestic sides with a rosy glow,

COMPLIMENTS. 75
while great black clouds come saihng along like the wings of night;
and then is the hour for remembermg that this is Mexico, and in
spite of ah the evils that have fallen over it, the memory of the ro
mantic past hovers there stih. But the dark clouds sail on, and en
velop the crimson tints yet hngering and blushing on |the lofty
mountains, and hke monstrous night-birds brood there in silent
watch, and graduahy the whole landscape ; — mountains and sky,
convent and ohve-trees, look gray and sad, and seem to melt away
in the dim twilight.
Then the bright moon rises and flings her silver veil over the
mountains, and lights up the plains, glittering and quivering upon
the old gray stones, and a sound of mihtary music is heard in the
distance far and faint. And ah the bells are tolling ; from old San
Fernando that repeats liimself hke a sexagenarian ; from the towers
of the cathedral, from many a distant church and convent ; and
above the rambling of carriages and the hum of the city, are heard
the notes of a hymn, now rising, now falling on the ear as a religious
E recession passes along to some neighbouring temple. But it grows
ite — a carriage enters the courtyard — a visit. There is no ro
mance here. Men and women are the same everywhere, whether
enveloped in the graceful mantiha, or wearing Herbaulfs last,
whether wrapt in Spanish cloak, or Mexican sarape, or Scottish
plaid, The manners of the ladies here are extremely kind, but
Spanish etiquette and comphments are beyond measure tiresome.
After having embraced each lady who enters, according to the
fashion, which after ah seems cordial to say the least of it, and seated
the lady of most consequence on the right side of the sofa, a point
of great importance, the fohowing dialogue is de rigueur. " How
are you ? Are you weh ?" " At your service, and you ?"
" Without novelty (sin novedad) at your service." " I am rejoiced,
and how are you, Sefiora ?" " At your disposal, and you ?" " A
thousand thanks, and the Sefior ?" " At your service, without
novelty," &c. &c. &c. Besides, before sitting down, there is " Pray be
seated." " Pass first, Sefiorita." " No, madam, pray pass first." " Vaya,
weh, to oblige you, without further ceremony ; I dislike comph
ments and etiquette." And it is a fact that there is no real etiquette
but the most perfect laissez aller in the world. Ah these are mere
words, tokens of good will. If it is in the morning, there is the
additional question of " How have you passed the night ?" And
the answer, " In your service." Even in Mexico the weather affords
a legitimate opening for a conversation battery, but this chiefly when
it rains or loots dull, which, occasioning surprise, gives rise to obser
vation. Besides, a shght change in the degree of heat or cold which
we would not observe, they comment upon.
The visit over, the ladies re-embrace, the lady of the house fol
lowing her guest to the top of the staircase, and again comphments
are given and received. " Madam, you know that my house is at
your disposal." " A thousand thanks, madam. Mine is at yours,

76 THE MAGUEY.
and though useless, know me for your servant, and command me in
every thing that you may desire." " Adieu, I hope yon may pass a
good night," &c. &c. &c. At the bottom of the first land
ing-place the visiters again turn round to catch the eye of the lady
of the house, and the adieus are repeated. Ah this, which struck
me at first, aheady appears quite natural, and would scarce be worth
mentioning, but as affording a contrast to our shght and indifferent
manner of receiving and taking leave of our guests. Ah the ladies
address each other, and are addressed by gentlemen, by their Christian
names, and those who have paid me more than one or two visits,
use the same famihar mode of address to me. Amongst women I
rather hke this, but it somewhat startles my ideas of the fitness of
things to hear a young man address a married women as Maria, An-
tonia, Anita, &c. However, things must be taken as they are
meant, and as no familiarity is intended, none should be sup
posed 
But these visiters are gone, and into the open court the consola
tory moon is shining. Ah clouds have passed away, and the blue
sky is so blue, as to dazzle the eyes even in the moonhght. Each
star shines out bright, golden, and distinct, and it seems a sin to
sleep and to lose so lovely a night  But for a true night
Anew, mount upon the Azotea, and see ah Mexico sleeping at your
feet ; the whole vahey and the city itself floating in moonhght; the
blue vault above gemmed with stars, and the mountains ah bathed
in silver, the white volcanoes seeming to join earth and sky. Here
even Salvator's genius would fail. We must evoke the ghost of
Byron. The pencil can do nothing. Poetry alone might give a
faint idea of a scene so wondrously beautiful.
26th. — We went yesterday with Mr. M  , his wife and
daughter and a padre to visit the archbishop's palace at Tacubaya,
a pretty village about four miles from Mexico, and a favourite ride
of ours in the morning. The country round Mexico, if not always
beautiful, has the merit of being original, and on the road to Tacu
baya, which goes by Chapultepec, you pass large tracts of country,
almost entirely uncultivated, though so near the city, or covered by
the mighty maguey plant, the American agave, which wih flourish
on the most arid soil, and, hke a fountain in a desert place, furnishes
the poorest Indian with the beverage most grateful to his palate.
It seems to be to them what the reindeer is to the Esquimaux, fitted
by nature to supply ah his wants. The maguey and its produce,
pulque, were known to the Indians in the most ancient times, and
the primitive Aztecs may have become as intoxicated on their fa
vourite octli, as they called it, as the modern Mexicans do on their
beloved pulque.
It is not often that we see the superb flower with its colossal stem,
for the plant that is in blossom is a useless beauty. The moment the
experienced Indian becomes aware that his maguey is about to flower,
he cuts out the heart, covers it over with the side leaves of the

PULQUE. 77
plant, and all the juice which should have gone to the great stem of
the flower, runs into the empty basin thus formed, into which the
Indian, thrice a day, and during several months in succession, inserts
his acojote or gourd, a kind of syphon, and applying his mouth to
the other end, draws off the hquor by suction; a curious-looking
process. First it is cahed honey- water, and is sweet and scentless ;
but easily ferments when transferred to the skins or earthen vases
where it is kept. To assist in its fermentation, however, a httle old
pulque, Madre pulque, as it is called, which has fermented for many
days, is added to it, and in twenty-four hours after it leaves the
plant, you may imbibe it in all its perfection. It is said to be the
most wholesome drink in the world, and remarkably agreeable when
one has overcome the first shock occasioned by its rancid odour. At
all events, the maguey is a source of unfailing profit, the consumption
of pulque being enormous, so that many of the richest families in the
capital owe their fortune entirely to the produce of their magueys.
When the owners do not make the pulque themselves, they fre
quently sell their plants to the Indians; and a maguey, which costs
a real when first planted, wih, when ready to be cut, sell for twelve
or eighteen dollars ; a tolerable profit, considering that it grows in
almost any soil, requires httle manure, and, unhke the vine, no very
special or periodical care. They are planted in rows, hke hedges,
and though -the individual plant is handsome, the general effect is
monotonous. Of the fibres is made an excellent strong thread called
pita, of which pita they make a strong brownish paper, and might
make cloth if they pleased. There is, however, httle improvement
made by the Mexicans upon the ingenuity of their Indian ancestors,
in respect to the maguey. Upon paper made of its fibres, the ancient
Mexicans painted their hieroglyphical figures. The strong and
pointed thorns, which terminate the gigantic leaves, they used as
nails and pins; and amongst the abuses, not the uses of these, the
ancient sanguinary priests were in the habit of piercing their breasts
and tearing their arms with them, in acts of expiation. Besides,
there is a very strong brandy distilled from pulque, which has the
advantage of producing intoxication in an infinitely shorter period.
Together with the maguey, grows another immense production of
nature, the organos, which resembles the barrels or pipes of an organ,
and being covered with prickles, the plants growing close together,
and about six feet high, makes the strongest natural fence imagin
able, besides being covered with beautiful flowers. There is also
another species of cactus, the nopal which bears the tuna, almost
refreshing fruit, but not ripe at this season. The plant looks like a
series of flat green pincushions fastened together, and stuck full of
diminutive needles.
But though the environs of Mexico are flat, though there are few
trees, httle cultivation, uninhabited haciendas, and ruined churches
in all directions, stih, with its beautiful chmate and ever-smihng sky,
the profusion of roses and sweet-peas in the deserted gardens, the

78 TACUBAYA.
occasional clumps of fine trees, particularly the graceful Arbol de
Peru (schinum molle, the Peruvian pepper-tree), its bending branches
loaded Avith bunches of coral-coloured berries, the old orchards with
their blossoming fruit-trees, the conviction that every thing necessary
for the use of man can be produced with scarcely any labour, all
contributes to render the landscape one which it is impossible to pass
through with indifference.
A magnificent ash-tree (the Mexican fresno), the pride of Tacu
baya; which throws out its luxuriant branches, covering a large
space of ground, was pointed out to us as having a tradition attached
to it. It had nearly withered away, when the Ylustrisimo Sefior
Fonti, the last of the Spanish archbishops, gave it his solemn bene
diction, and prayed that its vigour might be restored. Heaven
heard his prayer; new buds instantly shot forth, and the tree has
since continued to thrive luxuriantly.
Tacubaya is a scattered village, containing some pretty country-
houses and some old gardens with stone fountains. The word
country-house must not, however, be understood in the Enghsh
acceptation of the word. The house, which is in fact merely used
as an occasional retreat during the summer months, is generally a
large empty building, Avith innumerable lofty rooms, communicating
with each other, and containing the scantiest possible supply of
furniture. One room Avill have in it a deal table and a few chairs;
you wih then pass through five or six quite empty ; then you will
arrive at two or three, Avith green painted bedsteads and a bench;
the walls bare, or ornamented with a few old pictures of Saints and
Virgins, and bare floors ornamented with nothing. To this add a
kitchen and outhouses, a garden running to waste and overrunning
with flowers, with stiff stone walks and a fountain in the middle, an
orchard and an olive-ground; such are most of the haciendas that I
have yet seen. That of the Countess C  a, which seems to be
the handsomest in Tacubaya, is remarkable for commanding from its
windows one of the most beautiful views imaginable of Mexico, the
volcanoes and Chapultepec. From her azotea there is also a splendid
view of the whole vahey; and as her garden is in good order, that
she has an excehent billiard-table, a piano, but above ah, a most
agreeable society in her own family, and that her house is the very
centre of hospitality, one may certainly spend many pleasant hours
there, without regretting the absence of the luxurious furniture,
which, in Mexico, seems entirely confined to the town houses. The
Countess herself assured us that she had twice completely furnished
her house, but as, in two revolutions, every thing was thrown out of
the windows and destroyed, she was resolved in future to confine
herself to le stride necessaire.
We went to see a house and garden which has fallen, in chance
succession, to a poor woman, who, not being able to occupy her
unexpected inheritance, is desirous of selling it. The garden and
grounds are a deserted wilderness of sweets. We were joined by

ROBBERY. 79
several monks from a neighbouring convent, and with them went to
visit the archbishop's palace. Chemin faisant, the padre informed
us that he was formerly a merchant, a married man, and a friend of
Yturbide's. He failed, his wife died, his friend was shot, and he
joined a smah community of priests who hve retired in the convent
of La Profesa, which, with its church, is one of the richest in
Mexico. The Arzobispado is a large, handsome, but deserted building,
commanding the same fine view as from the house of the Countess,
and with a garden and fine olive-ground, of which the trees were
brought from Europe. The garden was filled with large double pink
roses, and bunches of the mille-fleur-rose, which are disposed in
arches, a favourite custom here, also with a profusion of sweet-peas
and jessamine, and a few orange-trees. The gardener gave us some
beautiful bouquets, and we hngered here till sunset, admiring the
view. There, is no point from which Mexico is seen to such advan
tage. It is even a finer prospect than that from Chapultepec, since
it embraces the castle itself, one of the most striking features in the
landscape. But just as the sun sunk behind the mountains, a sudden
change took place in the weather. The wind rose, great masses of
dark clouds came driving over the sky, and the rain fell in torrents,
forcing us to make a hasty retreat to our carriages, and having
omitted to take any precautions, and this road not being particularly
safe at night, we were probably indebted for our safe return more to
" good luck than good guidance;" or, perhaps, we owed it in part
to the padre, for the robbers are shy of attacking either soldiers or
priests, the first from fear, and the second from awe.
Talking of robbers and robberies, rather a fertile theme of con
versation, Sefior  told me the other day that in the time of a
former president, it came to pass, that a certain gentleman went to
take his leave at the palace, preAaous to setting off for Vera Cruz.
He was received by the president, who was alone with his aide-de
camp, General  , and mentioned to him in confidence that he
was about to take a considerable sum of money with him, but that
it was so well concealed in the hning of a trunk, which he described,
that even if attacked by robbers, it was impossible they should dis
cover it, and that therefore he did not think it necessary to take an
escort with him. The next day this confidential gentleman left
Mexico, in the diligence. Not far from the gates the coach was
attacked, and, strange to say, the robbers singled out the very trunk
which contained the money, opened it, ripped up the hning, and
having possessed themselves of the sum therein concealed, peaceably
departed. It was a singular coincidence, that the captain of the
robbers, though somewhat disguised, bore a striking general resem
blance to the president's aide-de-camp! These coincidences wih
happen 
My chief occupation, lately, has consisted in returning visits ; and
it is certain that, according to our views of the case, there is too

80 BEAUTIES AND DEFECTS.
wide a distinction between the full-dress style of toilet adopted by
the ladies when they pay visits, and the undress in which they
receive their visiters at home. To this there are some, nay many
exceptions, but en masse this is the case 
On first arriving from the United States, where an ugly woman
is a phoenix, one cannot fail to be struck at the first glance with the
general absence of beauty in Mexico. It is only by degrees that
handsome faces begin to dawn upon us ; but, however, it must be
remarked that beauty without colour is apt to be less striking and to
make less impression on us at first. The brilliant complexion and
fine figure of an Englishwoman strike every eye. The beauty of
expression and finely-chiselled features of a Spaniard steal upon us
hke a soft moonlight, while a Frenchwoman, however plain, has
so graceful a manner of saying agreeable things, so charming a
tournure, such a piquant way of managing her eyes and even her
mouth, that we think her a beauty after hah an hour's acquaintance,
and even lose our admiration for the quiet and high-bred, but less
graceful Anglaise. The beauty of the women here consists in superb
black eyes, very fine dark hair, a beautiful arm and hand, and small,
weh-made feet. Their defects are, that they are frequently too
short and too fat, that their teeth are often bad, and their complexion
not the clear ohve of the Spaniards, nor the glowing brown of the
Italians, but a bilious-looking yehow. Their notion of inserting the
foot into a shoe half an inch shorter, ruins the foot and destroys
their grace in walking, and, consequently, in every movement.
This fashion is, fortunately, beginning to fah into disuse  It
is therefore evident that when a Mexicana is endowed with white
teeth and a fine complexion, when she has not grown too fat, and
when she does not torture her smah foot to make it smaller, she must
be extremely handsome  The general carelessness of their
dress in the morning is, however, another great drawback to beauty.
A Avoman without stays, with uncombed hair and reboso, had need
to be A>-ery lovely, if she retain any attraction at ah. This indolence,
indeed, is going out of fashion, especially among the younger part of
the community, owing, perhaps, to their more frequent intercourse
with foreigners, though it AA-ih probably be long before the morning
at home is not considered a privileged time and place for dishabihe.
Notwithstanding, I have made many visits where I have found the
whole family in a perfect state of order and neatness, but I have ob
served that there the fathers, and what is more important, the
mothers, had travelled in Europe, and estabhshed a new order of
things on their return.
Upon the whole, the handsomest women here are not Mexicans,
that is, not born in the capital, but in the provinces. From Puebla,
and Jalapa and Vera Cruz, we see many distinguished by their bril
liant complexions and fine teeth, and who are taller and more graceful
than those born in the city of Mexico; precisely as in Spain, where
the handsomest women in Madrid are said to be those bom out of it.

FOOD. 81
The common Indians, whom we see every day bringing in their
fruit and vegetables to market, are, generally speaking, very plain,
with a humble, mild expression of countenance, very gentle, and
wonderfully pohte in their manners to each other; but occasionahy,
in the lower classes, one sees a face and form so beautiful, that we
might suppose such another was the Indian who enchanted Cortes;
with eyes and hair of extraordinary beauty, a complexion dark but
glowing, with the Indian beauty of teeth hke the driven snow,
together with smah feet and beautifully-shaped hands and arms,
however imbrowned by sun and toil. In these cases it is more than
probable that, however Indian in her appearance, there must have
been some intermarriages in former days between her progenitors and
the descendants of the conquerors. We also occasionally observe
very handsome Rancheritas, wives or daughters of the farmers, riding
in front of their farm-servants on the same horse, with the white
teeth and fine figures which are preserved by the constant exercise
that country women must perforce take, whatever be their natural
indolence, while the early fading of beauty in the higher classes, the
decay of teeth and the over-corpulency so common amongst them, are
no doubt the natural consequences of want of exercise and of inju
dicious food. There is no country in the world where so much
animal food is consumed, and there is no country in the world where
so little is required. The consumers are not the Indians, who cannot
afford it, but the better classes, who generally eat meat three times a
day. This, with the quantities of chile and sweetmeats, in a climate
which every one complains of as being irritating and inflammatory,
probably produces those nervous complaints which are here so
general, and for which constant hot baths are the universal and
agreeable remedy.
In point of amiability and warmth of manner, I have met with no
women who can possibly compete with those in Mexico, and it
appears to me that women of all other countries wih appear cold and
stiff by comparison. To strangers this is an unfailing charm, and it is
to be hoped that whatever advantages they may derive from their
intercourse with foreigners, they may never lose this graceful cor
diality, which forms so agreeable a contrast with Enghsh and
American frigidity 
C  n received an invitation some time ago to attend the honras
of the daughter of the Marquis of S  a, that is, the celebration
of mass for the repose of her soul. M  was observing to-day,
that if this Catholic doctrine be firmly believed, and that the
prayers of the church are indeed availing to shorten the sufferings
of those who have gone before us; to relieve those whom we
love from thousands of years of torture, it is astonishing how the
rich do not become poor, and the poor beggars, in furtherance of
this object; and that if the idea be purely human, it showed a
wonderful knowledge of human nature, on the part of the inventor,
as what source of profit could be more sure? ....
G

82 MODES OF INVITATION.
Certainly no expense was spared on this occasion. San Augustan,
in itself a beautiful church, was fitted up with extraordinary splen
dour. The walls and pillars were covered with draperies of rich
crimson velvet. Innumerable wax candles were hghted, and anil-
visible band of music played during the intervals of the deep-rolling
organ. All the monks of San Augustin, with their white hoods
and sandahed feet, and carrying hghted tapers, were ranged near the
altar. Ah the male relatives of the family, dressed in deep mourning,
occupied the high-backed chairs placed along one side of the church,
the floor of which was covered with a carpet, on which various
veiled and mourning figures were kneehng, whom I joined. The
whole service, the chanting, the solemn music, and the prayers, were
very impressive, yet more joyous than sad, perhaps from the per
vading feehng that each note, as it rose to heaven, earned some
aheviation to the sphit of the young and beloved one for whose
repose they prayed, and brought her nearer to the gates of the Holy
City. She was but twenty when she died ; and our first house is close to
that of the Marquis de S  a, her father, so that we were shocked
to learn that she had expired on the night of our great serenade (we,
of course, not aware of her illness), actuahy to the sound of that gay
music, and amidst the shouting and clapping of hands of the multi
tude. When the service was over the procession passed out, every
one kissing the hand of the bishop as he went along, and we found
some difficulty in making our way through the crowds of leperos,
who, though not ahowed to enter the church on this occasion, were
swarming at the gates. Our' carriage, as we returned home, formed
one of a file of at least one hundred.
We found on our table another invitation to a very splendid mass,
which is to be performed in San Francisco, on account of the death
of a friend of ours, a senator of distinguished family. The style of
these invitations is as fohows : — A device is engraved on the paper,
such as a tomb and cypress, and below is printed,
" Jose Maria A  ,
Jose G  de la C  a, and Basiho G  ,
brothers and uncle of the
Senator Don Augustin T  ,
who died on the twenty-eighth of last month,
requestyou to assist at the suffrage of the funeral honours, which, by
the desire of his wife. Dona J  A  , wih be celebrated in the
church of San Francisco on the morning of the eighth of this month
of February, 1840, at nine o'clock."
Beside this invitation, was a piece of information of a different
description :
" General A  and Anna R  beg to inform you that they
have contractedmatrimony, and have the honour of offering them
selves to your disposal.
" M  Street, No. 24. Mexico, 1840."

CALLE DE TACUBA. 83
Here, as in Spain, a lady, after her marriage, retains her maiden
name; and though she adds to it that of her husband, she is more
commonly known by her own.
From ignorance of another Mexican custom, I made rather an
awkward blunder the other day; though I must observe, in my
justification, that I had lately been in the agonies of searching for
servants, and had just filled ah the necessary departments pretty
much to my satisfaction. Therefore, when the porter of the Sefiora
de  brought me the comphments of his mistress, and that she
begged to inform me that she had another servant at my disposal
(otra criada a mi disposition), I returned for answer, that I was
greatly obliged, but had just hired a recamerera (chambermaid).
At this the man, stupid as he was, opened his great eyes with a
shght expression of wonder. Fortunately, as he was turning away,
I bethought me of inquiring after the senora's health, and his reply,
that " she and the baby were coming on very weh," brought the truth
suddenly before me, that the message was merely the etiquette used
on informing the friends of the family of the birth of a child — a
conviction which induced me slightly to alter the style of my answer.
Experientia docet !

LETTER THE ELEVENTH.

Calle de Tacuba— The Leap of Alvarado— The "Noche Triste "—Sale of a
Curate's Goods — Padre Leon — Leprosy — Pictures — The Annunciation— The
Alameda — Paseo de Bucarelli — The Viga — Indians in Canoes — A Murder —
A Country Fete — Visit to the Colegia Vizcaino — The Jota Arragonesa — Old
Soldiers. The street in which we hve forms part of the Cahe de Tacuba, the
ancient Tlacopan, one of the great causeways by which ancient
Mexico communicated with the continent. The other two were
Tepeyayac (now Guadalupe) and Iztapalapan, by which last the
Mexican emperor and his nobles went out to receive Cortes on his
entrance to Tenochtitlan. The ancient city was divided into ,four
districts, and this division is still preserved, with a change from the
Indian names to those of San Pablo, San Sebastian, San Juan, and
Santa Maria. The streets run in the same direction as they did in
former times. The same street frequently changes its name in each
division, and this part of the Cahe de Tacuba is occasionahy cahed
the " Plazuela del Sopilote," "San Fernando," and the "Puente
G2

84 ALVARADO.
de Alvarado," which is the more classic of the three, as celebrating
the valour of a hero ; while a ditch, crossed by a small bridge near
this, stih retains the name of " el Salto de Alvarado," in memory of
the famous leap given by the vahant Spaniard, Pedro de Alvarado,
on the memorable night cahed the " noche triste," of the 1st of July,
1520, when the Spaniards were forced to retreat from Mexico to the
mountains of Tepeyayac.
On that " sad night," the rain falling in torrents, the moon and
the stars refusing their hght, the sky covered Avith thick clouds,
Cortes commanded the silent march of his troops. Sandoval, the
unconquerable captain, led his vanguard; and the stern hero, Pedro
de Alvarado, brought up the rear. A bridge of wood was carried
by forty soldiers, to enable the troops to pass the ditches or canals,
which must otherwise have impeded their retreat. It is said that in
choosing the night for this march Cortes was guided by the counsels
of an astrologer.
Be that as it may, the first canal was happily passed by means of
the portable bridge. The sentinels who guarded that point were
overcome ; but the noise of the struggle attracted the attention of
the vigilant priests, who in the silence of the night were keeping
watch in the temple. They blew the holy trumpets, cried to arms,
and awakened the startled inhabitants from their slumbers.
In a moment the Spaniard were surrounded by water and by land.
At the second canal, which they had already reached, the combat
was terrible. Ah was confusion, wounds, groans, and death; and
the canal became so choked with dead bodies, that the rear-guard
passed over them as over a bridge. We are told that Cortes him
self swam more than once 0ATer the canal, regardless of danger,
cheering on his men, giving out his orders, every blow aimed in the
direction of his voice, yet cool and intrepid, as ever, in the midst of
ah the clamour and confusion and darkness. But arrived at the
third canal, Alvarado finding himself alone, and surrounded by
furious enemies, against whom it was in vain for his single arm to
contend, fixed his lance in the bottom of the canal, and leaning
against it, gave one spring to the opposite shore.
An Aztec author, and contemporary of Cortes, says that when
the Indians beheld this marvellous leap, and that their enemy Avas
safe, they bit the dust (comieron tierra); and that the children of
Alvarado, who was ever after known as " Alvarado of the leap,"
proved in the course of a lawsuit before the judges of Tezcuco, by
competent witnesses, the truth of this prowess of their father.
In a hitherto unpubhshed manuscript which has come to hght this
year, in an annual called the " Mosaico Mexicano," there are some
curious particulars concerning the " noche triste." It is said that the
alarm was given by an old woman who kept a stall; and mention is
made of the extraordinary valour of a lady cahed Maria de Estrada,
who performed marvellous deeds with her sword, and who was after
wards married to Don Pedro Sanchez Farfan. It is also said that

PADRE LEON. 85
when the Indians beheld the leap they cahed out, " Truly this man
is the offspring of the sun ;" and that this manner of tearing up the
ground, and eating earth by handfuls, was a common Indian mode
of expressing admiration. However, Mexico is so rich in traditions,
that when I particularize this one it is only because we hve on the
site where the event took place. . . .
We went a few days ago to see some effects which are for sale,
belonging to a cura who died lately, having heard that he has left
some good paintings amongst them. We went in the evening, and
found no one but the agent (an individual in the Daniel Lambert
style), an old woman or two, and the Padre Leon, a Jesuit, capellan
of the Capuchin nuns, and whose face, besides being handsome,
looks the very personification of all that is good, and mild, and holy.
What a fine study for a painter his head would be ! The old priest
who died, and who had brought over various valuables from Spain,
had a sister who was a leper, and who died in the hospital of San
Lazaro. This dreadful scourge is by no means wholly unknown
here ; and though it is ordained that all who are afflicted by it shall
be shut up in this hospital, I have met two persons, and one of these
in society, who have the disease.
For this house, which is very large, the executors ask a prepos
terous rent. The goods of the defunct, which were for sale, were
Tanged on long tables in a very large apartment. There were virgins
and saints, surplices, candlesticks and snuffer-trays; boxes of all
sorts and sizes ; an ill-set parure of emeralds and diamonds ; several
good paintings, especially one of the Annunciation. There was the
death of San Jose, various saints, &c, all religious subjects, as may
be supposed. Tavo C  n bought ; one I greatly coveted. There
were also two large pieces of embroidered velvet, on which were the
arms of Castile, said to have been hung on a portrait of Queen Cristina
when she entered Madrid. The agent begged C  n to buy them;
asking at the same time an impossible price therefor.
There was moreover a large box full of rehcs from Jerusalem,
which the padre told me could not be sold, but that I might choose
whatever I hked ; so that I returned home with various Agnus Deis,
crucifixes, and rosaries. The next day a messenger from Padre
Leon brought me the painting of the Annunciation, which I had
admired so much, and which is a sketch of Bayeu, a Valencian
painter, from his own painting of the Annunciation in the royal
chapel of Aranjuez ; also the embroidered velvet, begging my
acceptance of both. We have since wished to show our sense of the
padre's pohteness ; but he wih neither accept presents, nor Ayih he
visit any one but such as in the hour of need require his spiritual
services. In the house of sickness and by the bed of death he is ever
to be found, but chiefly if it is also the abode of poverty. In the
house of the rich man he rarely visits, and then only when his pre
sence has been requested — when he has been called in to administer
^spiritual consolation to the sick or the dying. But in the dwelling

86 EQUIPAGES.
of the lowly, in the meanest and most wretched hovels, he has never
to be sought. The guardian and friend of the poor, his charities
are equally extensive and judicious 
Yesterday, being a fete-day, the Paseo was very full of carriages,
and consequently more brihiant and amusing than usual. This Paseo
is the Mexican Prado or Hyde-Park, while the Viga may be reckoned
the Kensington Gardens of the metropohs, only however as succeed
ing to the other, for there is no walking, which in Mexico is consi
dered whohy unfashionable ; and though a few ladies in black gowns
and mantillas do occasionahy venture forth on foot very early to shop
or to attend mass, the streets are so ill kept, the pavements so nar
row, the crowd so great, and the multitude of leperos in rags and
blankets so annoying, that all these inconveniences, added to the
heat of the sun in the middle of the day, form a perfect excuse for
their non-appearance on the streets of Mexico.
In the Alameda, however, which is so pretty and shady, it is
very agreeable to walk ; but though I have gone there frequently in
the morning, I have met but three ladies on foot, and of these, two
were foreigners. After all, every one has feet, but ladies alone have
carriages, and it may be a mixture of aristocracy and indolence
which prevents the Mexican Donas from profaning the soles of their
feet by a contact with their mother earth.
The Paseo cahed de Bucarelli, after a viceroy of that name, is a
long and broad avenue bounded by the trees which he planted, and
where there is a large stone fountain, whose sparkling waters look
cool and pleasant, ornamented by a gilt statue of victory. Here,
every evening, but more especiahy on Sundays and fete-days, which
last are nearly innumerable, may be seen two long rows of carriages
filled with ladies, crowds of gentlemen on horseback riding down
the middle between these carriages, soldiers at intervals attending
to the preservation of pubhc order, and multitudes of common
people and leperos, mingled Avith some well-dressed gentlemen on
foot. The carriages are for the most part extremely handsome —
European coaches with fine horses and odd liveries, mingled with
carriages made in the country, some in the old Mexican fashion,
heavy and covered with ghding, or a modern imitation of an
Engfish carriage, strong, but somewhat clumsy and ill-finished.
Various hackney-coaches, drawn by mules, are seen among the finer
equipages, some very tolerable, and others of extraordinary form
and dimensions, which bear tokens of having belonged in former
days to some noble Don.
Horses, as being more showy, are more fashionable in these pubhc
promenades than mules, but the latter animal requires less care, and
is capable of undergoing more fatigue than the horse. Most families
have both mules and horses in their stable, and for those who visit
much this is necessary. The carriages, of which the most fashion
able seems to be the carratela, open at the sides, with glass windows,
are filled with ladies in full toilet, without mantillas, their heads

A MURDER. 87
uncovered, and, generahy, coiffees with flowers or jewels ; but the
generahty being close coaches, afford but an indistinct view of the
inmates, as they pass along saluting each other with their fingers or
fan. The whole seene, on the evening of a fete, is exceedingly bril
liant, but very monotonous. The equestrians, with their fine horses
and handsome Mexican dresses, apparently take no notice of the
ladies as they pass, rarely salute them, and never venture to enter
into conversation with them. But they are weh aware to whom
each carriage belongs, and consequently when it behoves them to
make their horses curvet, and otherwise show off their horseman
ship to advantage. Black eyes are upon them, and they know it.
When the carriages have made two or three turns, they draw up at
different stations in a semicircle a httle off the road, and there the
inmates sit and view the passers by. Occasional streams of smoke
may be seen issuing from the carriages, but chiefly, it must be con
fessed, from the most old-fashioned equipages, and from the hackney-
coaches. Smoking amongst ladies in the higher classes is going
very much out of fashion, and is rarely practised openly except by
.elderly, or at least by married ladies. In a secondary class, indeed,
young and old inhale the smoke of their cigaritos without hesita
tion, but when a custom begins to be considered vulgar, it wih
hardly subsist another generation. Unfeminine as it is, I do not
think it looks ungraceful to see a pretty woman smoke.
ThisJPaseo commands a fine view of the mountains, but I greatly
prefer the Viga, which now begins to be the fashionable promenade.
It is bordered by a canal shaded by trees, which leads to the Chi-
nampas, and is constantly covered with Indians in their canoes,
bringing in fruit and flowers and vegetables to the Mexican market.
Early in the morning it is a pretty sight to see them in these canoes
gliding along in a perfect bower of green branches and flowers.
Yesterday, on returning from an evening drive there, having left
C  n and. several gentlemen who had dined with us, taking coffee
and smoking upon the balcony, I found that by good fortune I had
escaped being witness of a murder which took place before our door.
These gentlemen had observed, for some time, a group of persons,
.male and female, of the lower class, talking and apparently amusing
themselves ; sometimes laughing, and at other times disputing and
giving each other blows. Suddenly, one of the number, a man,
darted out from amongst the others, and tried to escape by clamber
ing over the low wall which supports the arches of the aqueduct.
Instantly, and quite coolly, another man fohowed him, drew his
knife, and stabbed him in the back. The man fell backwards with
a groan, upon which a woman of the party, probably the murderer's
wife, drew out her knife, and stabbed the man several times to the
heart, the others, meanwhile, neither speaking nor interfering, but
looking on with folded arms, and their usual placid smile of indif
ference. At the same time, some soldiers appeared in the distance, riding
•down the street, seeing which, the man and woman who had com-

88 VISIT TO THE COLEGIO VIZCAINO.
mitted the murder, endeavoured to take shelter in our house. The
porter had, fortunately, barred the doors, and the soldiers riding up,
took them both into custody. No sensation was excited by this,
which is an every-day occurrence. Yesterday I saw a dead man
lying near the Longa (the Exchange) and nobody took _ any notice
of him. " You have been engaged in a disagreeable business," _ said
I to Colonel  , who had come to pay us a visit, and was stih en
grande tenue, having just returned from the execution of one of his
own soldiers, who had stabbed a comrade. " Yes," said he, Ayrth
an air of pecuhar gaiety ; " we have just been shooting a httle
tambour." .... We were invited, lately, to a " dia de campo" (a
day in the country), a very common amusement here, in which,
without any pecuhar arrangement or etiquette, a number of people
go out to some country place in the enAdrons, and spend the day m
dancing, breakfasting, walking about, &c. This was given at
Tacubaya by Don B  o G  a, a senator, and was amusing
enough. The music consisted of a band of guitars, from which the
performers, common men, and probably self-taught, contrived to
draw wonderfully good music, and, in the intervals of dancing,
played airs from the Straniera and Puritani. The taste for music is
certainly universal, the facilities wonderful, the science nearly at
zero. The ladies in general wore neither diamonds nor pearls, but a sort
of demi-toilet, which would have been pretty if their dresses had
been longer and their shoes not so tight. Some wore bonnets, which
are considered full dress. The E  family, and the young Sefiora
de C  , were beautifully dressed. Mexican women, when they
sit, have an air of great dignity, and the most perfect repose of
feature. They are always to be seen to most advantage on their
sofas, in their carriages, or in their boxes at the theatre.
There were immensely long tables, covered with Mexican
cookery, which I begin to get accustomed to ; and a great many
toasts were given and a great quantity of champagne drank. We
danced a great deal, quadrilles, waltzes and Spanish country-dances,
walked about in the garden and orchard in the evening, and re
turned to dance again to the music of the indefatigable guitars, so
that it was dusk when ah the carriages set off, much about the same
time, to bear each other company. . . .
The fohowing day, the Countess C  a having been kind
enough to procure an order for permission to visit the Colegio Viz
caino, which I was anxious to see, we went there with a large party.
This cohege, founded by the gratuitous charities of Spaniards,
chiefly from the province of Biscay, is a truly splendid institution.
It is an immense building of stone, in the form of a square, on the
model, they say, of the palace of Madrid, and possesses in the
highest degree that ah of sohdity and magnificence Avhich distin
guishes the Mexican edifices, and which, together with the width
and regularity of the streets, the vastness of the pubhc squares, the
total absence of all paltry ornament, the balconies with their balus-

VISIT TO THE COLEGIO VIZCAINO. 89
trades and window-gratings of sohd iron and bronze, render Mexico,
in spite of its inefficient police, one of the noblest-looking cities in
the world. The object of this cohege is to provide for the educa
tion of the children of Spaniards, especially for the descendants of
Biscayans, in Mexico ; a certain number being admitted upon appli
cation to the directors. There are female teachers in all the neces
sary branches, such as reading, Avriting, seAving, arithmetic, &c;
but besides this, there is a part of the building with a separate en
trance, where the children of the poor, of whatever country, are
¦educated gratis. These spend the day there, and go home in the
evening. The others are kept upon the plan of a convent, and
never leave the institution while they belong to it ; but the building
is so spacious and airy, with its great galleries, and vast court and
fine fountains, garden and spacious azotea, that the children are per
fectly weh off. There are portieres and sisters, pretty much as in a
convent; together with an old respectable Rector a; and the most
perfect order and cleanhness prevails through the whole establish
ment. We first visited the poor scholars, passing through the large halls
where they sat with their teachers, divided into classes, sewing, writ
ing, reading, embroidering, or casting up accounts, which last ac
complishment must, I think, be sorely against the Mexican genius.
One of the teachers made a httle girl present me with a hair chain
which she had just completed. Great order and decorum prevailed.
Amongst the permanent scholars in the upper part of the institu
tion, there are some who embroider astonishingly well — surphces,
altar-hangings, in short, all the church vestments in gold or silk. In
the room where these are kept are the confessionals for the pupils.
The priests are in a separate room, and the penitents kneel before
the grating which separates the two apartments. All the sleeping-
rooms are scrupulously neat and clean, with two green painted beds
in each, and a smah parlour off it, and frequently ornamented with
flowers and birds. The girls are taught to cook and iron, and make
themselves generally useful, thus being fitted to become excellent
"wives to respectable men in their own rank of hfe.
We visited the chapel, which is extremely rich and handsome,
incrustedj with gilding, and very large. The pupils and their
teachers attend mass in the gallery above, which looks down upon
the chapel and has a grating before it. Here they have the organ,
and various shrines, saints, nacimientos, &c. We were afterwards
shown into a great hall devoted to a different purpose, containing at
one end a smah theatre for the pupils to act plays in. Ah the walls of
the long galleries are covered with old paintings on holy subjects,
but many of them falhng to pieces from damp or want of care._ The
building seems interminable, and after wandering all through it for
several hours, and visiting every thing— from the old garden below
where they gave me a large bunch of roses and carnations, to the
azotea above, which looks down upon every street and church and

90 SOLDIERS.
convent in Mexico — we were not sorry to rest on the antique,
high-backed chairs of a handsome apartment, of which the walls
were hung with the portraits of the different Spanish directors of
the cohege in an ancient court costume. Here we found that the
directors had prepared a beautiful collation for us — fruit, ices, cakes,
custards, jellies, wines, &c, in great profusion.
Rested and refreshed, we proceeded to visit the pupils at their
different classes. At the Avriting-class various specimens of that po
hte art were presented to us. That of the elder girls was generally
bad, probably from their haAang entered the cohege late in life.
That of the younger ones was much more tolerable. We saw some
really beautiful specimens of embroidery. Having returned to the
hah where there was a piano, some of our party began to sing and
play. The Sefiora G  o sang an Italian air beautifully. She is
evidently a scientific musician. The Senorita H  s played one
of Herz's most difficult combinations with great execution, and a
pretty girl, who is living in a convent, Laving been placed there by
her novio, to keep her out of harm's way till he is prepared to give
her his hand, sang a duet with another young lady, which I accom
panied. Both had fine voices, but no notion of what they were
singing. My friend the Sefiora C  dehghted us with some of
the innumerable and amusing verses of the Jota Arragonesa, which
seem to have neither end nor beginning, ah gay and ah untranslat
able, or at least losing their point and wit when put into an Enghsh
dress. Such as A poor man met with a sixpence,
And for joy he gave up the ghost,
And in the troubles of death,
Even his sixpence was lost.

The woman who loves two at once,
Knows what is discreet and right,
Since if one of her candles goes out,
Still the other remains alight, &c. .

It is impossible to see any building of this size kept more per
fectly clean and neat ; generally the case here in ah establishments
which are under petticoat government. These old Spanish institu
tions are certainly on a magnificent scale, though now for the most
part neglected and falling to ruin; nor has any work of great con
sequence been attempted since the independence. .
After various alarms and rumours in our house concerning rob
bers, some true, some exaggerated, and some wholly false, we have
at length procured two old Spanish soldiers of the Invalidos, who
have taken up their quarters down stairs, and spend their time in
cleaning their guns, making shoes, eating and sleeping, but as yet
have had no occasion to prove their valour. Perhaps the fact of
there being soldiers in the house wih be sufficient to keep off the
more ordinary robbers.

91

LETTER THE TWELFTH.
The Viga during the Carnival— Variety of Equipages- The Millionaires— The
Monks— Masked Ball— An alarming Sight— Medical Students— Dinner at
the Prussian Minister's— Rides on Horseback— Indian Love of Flowers-
Santa Anita — The Chinampas — Their Origin — Indians in Canoes— Song of
" El Palomo"— Fighting— The Great Lakes— The Drain of Huehuetoca
—The great Market of Tlatelolco. 16th March.
We are now in Lent in the midst of prayer, church-going, and
fasting. The carnival was not very gay, with the exception of a
few pubhc masked bahs and very brihiant paseos. The Viga is one
of the most beautiful promenades imaginable, though it might easily
be rendered stih more so ; but even as it is, with its fine shady trees
and canal, along which the lazy canoes are constantly gliding, it
would be difficult, on a fine evening, just before sunset, especially
on the evening of a fete-day, to find anywhere a prettier or more
characteristic scene. Which rank of society shows the most taste
in their mode of enjoyment, must be left to the scientific to deter
mine ; the Indians, with their flower-garlands and guitars, lying in
their canoes, and dancing and singing after their own fashion as
they ghde along the water, inhaling the balmy breezes ; or the
ladies, who shut up in their close carriages, promenade along in full
dress and silence for a given space of time, acknowledging by a
gentle movement of their fan, the salutations of their fair friends from
the recesses of their coaches, and seeming to dread lest the ah of
heaven should visit them too roughly; though the soft breeze, laden
with balm, steals over the sleepy water, and the last rays of the sun
are ghding the branches of the trees with a broken and flickering
hght. ...
Then at certain intervals of time each carriage slowly draws up
beside its neighbour (as in the other paseo) ; the elegant carratela
beside the plebeian hackney-coach ; the splendid equipage of the
millionaire beside the lumbering and. antique vehicle whose fashion
hath now departed. There sit the inmates in silence, as if the bu
siness of life were over, and it was now their part to watch the busy
world from the loopholes of their retreat, and see it rolhng along
whilst they take their rest. The gentlemen also draw up their
prancing steeds, though not within hail of the carriages, but they
in the fresh air and under the green trees have as much advantage
over the Sefioras as the wandering friar has over the cloistered
nun.

92 MILLIONAIRES.
Yet enter the Viga about five o'clock, when freshly watered, and
the soldiers have taken their stand to prevent disturbance, and two
long hnes of carriages are to be seen going and returmng as far as
the eye can reach, and hundreds of gay plebeians are assembled on
the sidewalks with flowers and fruit and dulces for sale,_ and innu
merable equestrians in picturesque dresses, and with spirited horses,
fill up the interval between the carriages, and the canoes are cover
ing the canal, the Indians singing and dancingl lazily as the boats
steal along, and the whole under the blue and cloudless sky, and in
that pure clear atmosphere; and could you only shut your eyes to
the one disagreeable feature in the picture, the number of leperos
busy in the exercise of their vocation, you would beheve that
Mexico must be the most flourishing, most enjoyable, and most
peaceful place in the world, and moreover the wealthiest ; not a re
public, certainly, for there is no weh-dressed people ; hardly a, con
necting hnk between the blankets and the satins, the poppies and
the diamonds. As for the carriages, many would not disgrace Hyde
Park, though there are some that would send a shiver all alongBond-
street ; but the very contrast is amusing, and upon the whole, both
as to horses and equipages, there is much more to admire than to
criticise. . . .
There, for example, is the handsome carriage of the rich 
 , who has one of the finest houses in Mexico ; his wife wears a
velvet turban twisted with large pearls, and has at this moment a
cigar in her mouth. She is not pretty, but her jewels are superb.
How he made his fortune, partly by gambling, and partly by even
less honourable means, let some abler chronicler relate. Or look at
this elegant carratela, with its glass sides ah opened, giving to Ariew
a constellation of fair ones, and drawn by handsome gray frisones:
These ladies are remarkable as having a more European air than
most others, brighter colours, longer and simpler dresses, and Paris
bonnets. Perhaps they have been in Europe. It is remarkable that
the horses of the gentlemen ah appear peculiarly unmanageable every
time they pass this carriage. Another handsome, plain carriage*
containing the family of one of the ministers ; mother and daughters all
beautiful, with Spanish eyes and dark glowing complexions, fohowed
close by a hackney-coach containing women with rebosos, and httle
children, with their faces and fingers all bedaubed with candy. . . . s
Some of the coachmen and footmen wear Mexican dresses, and others
have liveries  But here come three carriages en suites
ah with the same crimson and gold hvery, all luxurious, and all
drawn by handsome white horses. Is it the President ? Certainly
not; it is too ostentatious. Even royalty goes in simpler guise, when
it condescends to mingle in the amusements of its subjects. In the
first carriage appear the great man himself and his consort, rather
withdrawing from the plebeian gaze. There is here much crimson
and gold, much glass and weh-stuffed cushions, much comfort and
magnificence combined. Two handsome northern steeds, white and

MASKED BALL. 93
prancing, draw this commodious equipage. The next is a splendid
coach, containing the children and servants, while in the third
equally magnificent, are the babies and nurses. By the side of the
first carriage rides an elderly gentleman, who, were his seat firmer,
might be mistaken for a picador. He wears a rich Mexican dress,
ah covered with gold embroidery; his hat with gold rolls is stuck
jauntily on one side, contrasting oddly enough with his uneasy
expression of countenance, probably caused by the inward trepidation
of which he cannot wholly repress the outward sign while managing
his high-bred steed, and with his feet pressing his silver stirrups,
cautiously touching him with a whip which has a large diamond in
the handle.
But the chief wonder of his equipment, and that which has pro
cured him such a retinue of httle ragged and shouting boys, is his
saddle. This extraordinary piece of furniture, which cost the owner
five thousand dohars, is entirely covered with velvet, richly embossed
in massive gold; he sometimes appears with another, inlaid with
pure silver.
His whole appearance is the most singular imaginable, and the
perturbation of spirit in which he must return when it begins to
grow dusk, and he reflects at once upon his ovrat value, and his
countrymen's taste for appropriation, must balance the enjoyment
which his vanity receives from the admiration of the httle boys in
the Paseo.
Just as these milhonaries pass by, an old hackney-coach, in their
wake, attracts our attention, exactly the sort of quaint old vehicle in
which it sometimes pleases Lady Morgan to introduce her heroines.
In it are six figures, closely masked, their faces covered Avith shawls.
After many conjectures, it is impossible to guess whether they are
men or women. It was impossible, but as the carriages return, the
wind suddenly blows aside the shawls of two of the party, and dis
closes the gOAvns and hoods of the — friars ! O temporal O mores!
There were three masked balls at the theatre, of which we only
attended one. We went about ten o'clock to a box on the pit tier,
and although a pronunciamiento (the fashionable term here for a re
volution) was prognosticated, we found every thing very quiet and
orderly, and the ball very gay and crowded. As we came in, and
were giving our tickets, a number of masks came springing by,
shrieking out our names in their unearthly voices. Captain G  ,
brother of Lord  , came to our box; also a scion of La jeune
France, M. de C  , who condescendingly kept his hat on during
the whole evening. In a box directly above us were the French
legation, who arrived lately. Amongst the women, the dresses were
for the most part dominoes, adopted for greater concealment, as it
was not considered very creditable to be there.
There were also several in men's attire, chiefly French modistes,
generally a most disreputable set here, and numerous men dressed as
women. There were masked Poblanas without stockings, and with

94 VAGUE FEARS.
very short petticoats ; knights in armour ; innumerable dresses pro
bably borrowed from the theatre, and even more than the usual propor
tion of oddfigures. The music was very good, and the dancers waltzed
and galloped, and flew round the room hke furies. There was at
least no want of animation. Hundreds of masks spoke to us,_ but I
discovered no one. One in a domino was particularly anxious to
direct my attention to the Poblana dress, and asked me if it would
have done for me to attend the fancy ball in such a costume. Very
angry at his absurdity, I began to explain how I should have dressed,
when I recollected the folly of explaining any thing to a creature whom
I did not know. C  n stepped out of the box, to walk amongst the
crowd, at which various masks showed great signs of joy, surround
ing and shaking hands Avith him.
The boxes were filled with ladies, and the scene was very amusing.
Sefior M  , whose box we occupied, ordered in cakes and wine,
and about one o'clock we left the ball-room and returned home, one
of our old soldiers acting as lackey 
I paid a visit the other day, which merits to be recorded. It was
to the rich Senora  , whose first visit I had not yet returned.
She was at home, and I was shovm into a very large drawing-room,
where, to my surprise, I found the lamps, mirrors, &c, covered with
black crape, as in cases of mourning here. I concluded that some
one of the family was dead, and that I had made a very ill-timed
first visit. However I sat down, when my eyes were instantly at
tracted by something awful, placed directly in front of the sofa where
I sat. There were six chairs ranged together, and on these lay
stretched out a figure, apparently a dead body, about six feet long,
enveloped in black cloth, the feet alone Aasible, from their pushing
up the cloth. Oh, horror ! Here I sat my eyes fixed upon this
mysterious apparition, and lost in conjecture as to whose body it
might be. The master of the house ? He was very tall, and being
in bad health might have died suddenly. My being received, argued
nothing against this, since the first- nine days after a death, the house
is invariably crowded with friends and acquaintances, and the widow,
or orphan, or childless mother must receive the condolences of ah
and sundry, in the midst of her first bitter sorrow. There seems to
be no idea of grief wishing for sohtude.
Pending these reflections, I sat uneasily, feehng or fancying a
heavy ah in the apartment, and wishing, most sincerely, that some
hving person would enter. _ I thought even of slipping away, but
feared to give offence, and in fact began to grow so nervous, that
when the Sefiora de  entered at length, I started up as if I had
heard a pistol. She wore a coloured muslin gown and a blue shawl;
no signs of mourning !
After the usual complimentary preface, I asked particularly after
her husband, keeping a side glance on the mysterious figure. He
was pretty weh. Her family? Just recovered from the smallpox,
after being severely ih. "Not dangerously?" said I, hesitatingly,

DINNER PARTY. 95
thinking she might have a tall son, and that she alluded to the re
covery of the others, "No;" but her sister's children had been
alarmingly ill. " Not lost any, I hope?"—" None." Well, so taken
up was I, that conversation flagged, and I answered and asked ques
tions at random, until, at last, I happened to ask the lady if she were
going _ to the country soon. " Not to remain. But to-morrow we
are going to convey a Santo Cristo (a figure of the Crucifixion) there,
which has just been made for the chapel ;" glancing towards the
figure; "for which reason this room is, as you see, hung with black."
I never felt so reheved in my hfe, and thought of the Mysteries of
Udolpho. _ The houses being so large, and the servants not drilled to announce
visiters; besides that the entresols are frequently let to other families,
it is a matter of no smah difficulty for a stranger to pioneer him or
her self into the presence of the people of the house. The mistakes
that I have made ! for not being aware of this fact concerning the en
tresols, which are often large and handsome, and the porter having
begged me to walk up, I generahy stopped at the first landing-place,
and then walked up to the first door that I saw. I did walk in one
morning upon two gentlemen, who seemed marvellously startled by
my visit. They looked hke two medical students, and were engaged
before a table, Heaven knows how ; dissecting, I imagine. I inquired
for the Sefiora  , which astonished them stih more, as weh it
might. However, they were very civil, and rushed down stairs to
can up the carriage. After that adventure I never entered a house
unaccompanied by a footman, until I had learnt my way through it.
We had a pleasant dinner-party a few days ago at the Prussian
Minister's, and met the C  s family there. The Condesa de C 
has been a long while in Europe, and in the best society, and is now
entirely devoted to the education of her daughters, giAring them every
advantage that Mexico can afford in the way of masters, besides hav
ing at home a Spanish governess to assist her, an excehent woman,
whom they regard as a second mother.
Though there is very little going on in Mexico at present, I amuse
myself very well; there is so much to see, and the people are so kind
and friendly. Having got riding horses we have been making ex
cursions all round the country, especially early in the morning, before
the sun is high, when the air is dehghtfully cool and refreshing.
Sometimes we go to the Viga at six in the morning, to see the
Indians bringing in their flowers and vegetables by the canal. The
profusion of sweet-peas, double poppies, bluebottles, stock gilly
flower, and roses, I never saw equalled. Each Indian woman in her
canoe looks as if seated in a floating flower-garden. The same love
of flowers distinguishes them now as in the time of Cortes ; the same
which Humboldt remarked centuries afterwards. In the evening
these Indian women, in their canoes, are .constantly crowned with
garlands of roses or poppies. Those who sit in the market, selling
their fruit or their vegetables, appear as if they sat in bowers formed

96 THE CHINAMPAS.
of fresh green branches and coloured flowers. In the poorest village-
church the floor is strewed with flowers, and before the service begins
fresh nosegays are brought in and arranged upon the altar. _ The
baby at its christening, the bride at the altar, the dead body in its
bier, are ah adorned with flowers. We are told that in the days of
Cortes a bouquet of rare flowers was the most valuable gift presented
to the ambassadors who visited the court of Montezuma, and it pre
sents a strange anomaly, this love of flowers having existed along with
their sanguinary worship and barbarous sacrifices.
We went the other evening on the canal, in a large canoe with an
awning, as far as the httle village of Santa Anita, and saw, for the
first time, the far-famed Chinampas, or floating gardens, which have
now become fixtures, and are covered with vegetables, intermingled
with flowers, with a few poor huts beside them, occupied by the
Indians, who bring these to the city for sale. There were cauliflowers,
chili, tomatoes, cabbages, and other vegetables, but I was certainly
disappointed in their beauty. They are however curious, on account
of their origin. So far back as 1245, it is said the wandering Aztecs
or Mexicans arrived first at Chapultepec, when, being persecuted by
the princes of Taltocan, they took refuge in a group of islands to the
south of the lake of Tezcuco. Falling under the yoke of the Tezcucan
kings, they abandoned their island home and fled to Tezapan, where,
as a reward for assisting the chiefs of that country in a war against
other petty princes, they received their freedom, and estabhshed
themselves in a city to which they gave the name of Mexicalsingo,
from Mejitli, their god of war — now a cohection of strong barns and
poor huts. But they did not settle there, for to obey an oracle they
transported themselves from this city to the islands east of Chapultepec
to the western side of the lake of Tezcuco. An ancient tradition had
long been current amongst them, that wherever they should behold
an eagle seated upon a nopal whose roots pierced a rock, there they
should found a great city. In 1325 they beheld this sign, and on the
spot, in an island in the lake, founded the first house of God — the
Teocalli, or Great Temple of Mexico. During ah their wanderings,
wherever they stopped, the Aztecs cultivated the earth, and hved
upon what nature gave them. Surrounded by enemies and in the
midst of a lake where there are few fish, necessity and industry com
pelled them to form floating fields and gardens on the bosom of the
waters. They weaved together the roots of aquatic plants, intertwined with
twigs and light branches, until they had formed a foundation suffi
ciently strong to support a soil formed of the eaith which they drew
from the bottom of the lake ; and on it they sowed their maize, their
chili, and ah other plants necessary for their support. These floating
gardens were about a foot above the water, and in the form of a long
square. Afterwards, in their natural taste for flowers, they not only
cultivated the useful but the ornamental, and these smah gardens
multiplying were covered with flowers and aromatic herbs, which

THE "PALOMO." 97
were used in the worship of the gods, or were sent to ornament the
palace of the emperor. The Chmampas along the canal of the Viga
are no longer floating gardens, but fixed to the main land in the
marshy grounds lying between the two great lakes of Chalco and
Tezcuco. A small trench full of water separates each garden; and
though now in this marshy land they give but a faint idea of what
they may have been when they raised their flower-crowned heads
above the clear waters of the lake, and when the Indians, in their
barks, wishing to remove their habitations, could tow along their httle
islands of roses, it is stih a pretty and a pleasant scene.
We bought numerous garlands of roses and poppies from the
Indian children, both here and at Santa Anita, a httle village where
we landed, and as we returned towards evening we were amused by
the singing and dancing of the Indians. One canoe came close up to
ours, and kept beside it for some time. A man was lying lazily at
the bottom of the boat tingling his guitar, and one or two women
were dancing monotonously and singing at the same time to his music.
Sundry jars of pulque and earthen dishes with tortillas and chili and
pieces of tasajo, long festoons of dried and salted beef, proved that
the party were not without their sohd comforts, in spite of the ro
mantic guitar and the rose and poppy garlands with which the
dancing nymphs were crowned. Amongst others they performed the
Palomo, the Dove, one of their most favourite dances. The music is
pretty, and I send it you with the words, the music from ear; the
words are given me by my friend the Sefiora A  d, who sings ah
these httle Indian airs in perfection. If we may form some judgment
of a people's civilization by their ballads, none of the Mexican songs
give us a very high idea of theirs. The words are generally a tissue
of absurdities, nor are there any patriotic songs which their new-born
freedom might have called forth from so musical a people. At least
I have as yet only discovered one air of which the words bear reference
to the glorious " Grito de Dolores," and which asserts in rhyme that
on account of that memorable event, the Indian was able to get as
drunk as a Christian ! The translation of the Palomo is as fohows :
" What are you doing, httle dove, there in the wine-shop? Wait
ing for my love until Tuesday, my life. A dove in flying hurt her
httle wing. If you have your dove I have my httle dove too. A
dove in flying all her feathers fell off. Women pay badly; not ah,
but some of them. Little dove of the barracks, you wih teh the
drummers when they beat the retreat to strike up the march of my
loves. Little dove, what are you doing there leaning against that
wall? Waiting for my dove till he brings me something to eat." At
the end of each verse the chorus of " Palomita, palomo, palomo."
Yet, monotonous as it is, the air is so pretty, the women sang so
softly and sleepily, the music sounded so soothingly as we ghded along
the water, that I felt in a pleasant half-dreamy state of perfect con
tentment, and was sorry when arriving at the landing-place, we had
H

98 THE " DESAGUE."
to return to a carriage and civihzed life, Avith nothing but the garknds
of flowers to remind us of the Chinampas.
Unfortunately these people generally end by too frequent applica
tions to the jarro of pulque, or what is worse to the pure spirit known
by the name of chinguirite ; the consequence of which is, that from
music and dancing and rose-becrowning, they proceed to quarrelling
and jealousy and drunkenness, which frequently terminates in their
fighting, stabbing each other, or throwing each other into the canal.
il The end crowns the work."
Noble as this present city of Mexico is one cannot help thinking
how much more picturesque the ancient Tenochtitlan was, and how
much more ferthe its vahey must have been, on account of the great
lakes. Yet even in the time of Cortes these lakes had no great depth
of water, and stih further back, in the time of the Indian Emperois,
navigation had been so frequently interrupted in seasons of drought,
that an aqueduct had been constructed in order to supply the canals
with water.
After this, the Spaniards, hke ah new settlers, hewed down the
fine trees in this beautiful vahey, both on plain and mountain,
leaAang the bare soil exposed to the vertical rays of the sun. Then
their weh-founded dread of inundation caused them to construct
the famous Desague of Huehuetoca, the drain or subterranean con
duit or channel in the mountain for drawing off the waters of the
lakes, thus leaving marshy lands or sterile plains covered with car
bonate of soda, where formerly were silver lakes covered Avith
canoes. This last was a necessary evil, since the Indian emperors
themselves Avere sensible of its necessity and had formed great works
for draining the lakes, some remains of which Avorks stih exist in
the Aneinity of the Penon. The great Desague was begun in 1607,
when the Marquis of Salinas was Adceroy of Mexico ; and the ope
rations were commenced -with great pomp, the viceroy assisting in
person, mass being said on a portable altar, and fifteen hundred
workmen assembled, while the marquis himself began the excavation
by giving the first stroke Avith a spade. From 1607 to 1830, eight
millions of dohars were expended, and yet this great work was not
brought to a conclusion. However, the limits of the two lakes of
Zumpango and San Cristobal, to the north of the vahey, were thus
greatly reduced, and the lake of Tezcuco, the most beautiful of all
the five, no longer received their contributions. Thus the danger of
inundations has diminished, but water and vegetation have diminished
also, and the suburbs of the city, which were formerly covered Avith
beautiful gardens, now present to the eye an arid expanse of efflo
rescent salt. The plains near San Lazaro especiahy, in their arid
whiteness, seem characteristic of the unfortunate victims of leprosy
enclosed in the walls of that hospital.
We rode out the other day by the barrio, or ward of Santiago,
which occupies part of the ancient Tlatelolco, which once constituted

TACUBA. 99

a separate state, had kings of its own, and was conquered by a
¦Mexican monarch, who made a communication by bridges between
it and Mexico. The great market mentioned by Cortes was held
here, and its boundaries are still pointed out, whilst the convent
chapel stands on the height where Cortes erected a battering engine,
when he was besieging the Indian Venice.

LETTER THE THIRTEENTH.
Convent of San Joaquin — Mexico in the Morning — Tacuba — Carmelite Prior
— Convent Garden — Hacienda of Los Morales — El Olivar — A Huacamaya —
Humming Birds — Correspondence — Expected Consecration — Visit to the
Mineria — Botanic Garden — Arbol de las Manitas — The Museum — Eques
trian Statue — Academy of Painting and Sculpture — Disappointment.
Early this morning we rode to the convent of San Joaquin,
belonging to friars of the Carmelite order, passing through Tacuba,
the ancient Tlacopan, once the capital of a small kingdom, and
whose monarch, Tetlepanquetzaltzin (short and convenient name),
Cortes caused to be hung on a tree for a supposed or real conspiracy.
The number of carts, the innumerable Indians loaded hke beasts of
burden, their women with baskets of vegetables in their hands and
children on their backs, the long strings of arrieros with their loaded
mules, the droves of cattle, the flocks of sheep, the herds of pigs,
render it a work of some difficulty to make one's way on horseback
out of the gates of Mexico at an early hour of the morning, but it
must be confessed, that the whole scene is hvely and cheerful
enough to make one forget that there is such thing as care in the
world. There is an indifferent, placid smile on every face, and the
bright blue sky smihng over them ah; dogs bark, and asses bray,
and the Indian, with near a mule's load on his back, drags his hat off
to salute a bevy of his bronze-coloured countrymen, nearly equally
laden with himself, and they ah show their teeth and talk their liquid
Indian and pass on. .
These plains of Tacuba, once the theatre of fierce and bloody
conflicts, and where, during the siege of Mexico, Alvarado of the
leap fixed his camp, now present a very tranquil scene. Tacuba
itself is now a smah village of mud huts, with some fine old trees,
a few very old ruined houses, a ruined church, and some traces of a
h2

100 A HUACAMAYA.
building which  assured us had been the palace of their last
monarch; whilst others declare it to have been the site of the Spa
nish encampment.
San Joaquin, also a poor village, contains the fine convent and
immense walled garden and orchard belonging to the rich monks of
the Carmelite order. As C  n knows the prior, he sent in our
names, and I was admitted as far as the sacristy of the convent
church. The prior received us with the utmost kindness : he is a good-
looking man, extremely amiable and weh-informed, and stih young.
The gentlemen were admitted into the interior of the convent, which
they describe as being a very large handsome building, clean and airy,
with a fine old library, chiefly composed of theological works ; to the
garden, which is immensely large, and though not much cultivated, full
of flowers ; and to the great orchard, celebrated for the profusion and
excellence of its fruit. There is a mirador in the garden which can
be seen from the road, and from which there is a very extensive
Adew. I was very anxious for admittance only to the garden, and
pleaded the manly appearance of my riding-hat, which would pre
vent all scandal were I seen from a distance; but the complaisance
of the good prior would not go quite so far as that, so I sat in the
sacristy and conversed with a goodnatured old monk with a double
chin, whilst the others wandered through the grounds. They after
wards gave us a very nice breakfast, simple but good; fish from the
lake, different preparations of eggs, riz-au-lait, coffee and fruit.
The monks did not sit down with us, nor would they partake of
any thing themselves.
We went in the evening to see a pretty hacienda called Los Mo
rales (the mulberry-tree), belonging to a Spaniard, which has a nice
garden with a bath in it, and where they bestowed a quantity of
beautiful flowers on us.
The other day we set off early, together with the Belgian and
French ministers and their famihes, in carriages, to Arisit a beautiful
deserted hacienda, called el Olivar, belonging to the Marquis of
Santiago. The house is perfectly bare, with nothing but the walls;
but the grounds are a wilderness of tangled flowers and blossoming
trees, rose-bushes, sweet-peas, and all manner of fragrant flowers.
We passed an agreeable day, wandering about, breakfasting on the
provisions brought with us, arranging large bouquets of flowers,
and firing at a mark, which must have startled the birds in this
sohtary and uncultivated retreat. We had a pleasant family dinner
at the E  's, and passed the evening at the Baron de  's.
The gentlemen returned late, it being the day of a diplomatic din'
ner at the Enghsh minister's.
The Countess del V  e has just sent me a beautiful bird with
the most gorgeous plumage of the brightest scarlet and blue. It is
called a huacamaya, and is of the parrot species, but three times as
large, /being about two feet from the beak to the tip of the tail. It
is a superb creature but very wicked, gnawing not only its own
pole, but ah the doors, and committing great havoc amongst the

CORRESPONDENCE. 101
plants, besides trying to bite every one who approaches it. It pro
nounces a few Avords very hoarsely and indistinctly, and has a most
harsh, disagreeable cry. In fact it presumes upon its beauty to be
as unamiable as possible.
I prefer some beautiful httle humming-birds (chupamirtos as they
are called here) which have been sent me, and which I am trying to
preserve alive, but I fear the cold will kill them, for though we see
them occasionally here, hanging by their beaks upon the branches
of the flowers, hke large butterflies, and shaking their brilfiant
little Avings so rapidly that they seem to emit sparkles of coloured
Hght; still this is not their home; properly speaking, they belong to
the tierra caliente. These httle birds are of a golden green and
purple, and are so tame, that whilst I am writing I have two on my
shoulder and one perched on the edge of a glass, diving out its long
tongue for sugar and water. Our hve stock is considerable : we
have Guinea fowls, who always remind me of old maiden ladies in
half-mourning, and whose screaming notes match those of the huaca-
maya; various httle green parrots; a scarlet cardinal, one hundred
and sixty pigeons in the pigeon-house, and three fierce dogs in con
spicuous situations.
I received a very polite letter to-day from the Sefiora de Santa
Anna, and as it was enclosed in a few fines from Santa Anna himself,
. I send you his autograph, for I doubt much whether we have seen
the last of that illustrious personage, or whether his philosophic
retirement will endure for ever.
I have been endeavouring lately to procure permission from Sefior
Posada, who is shortly to be consecrated archbishop, to visit the
convents of nuns in Mexico. Sefior C  o, secretary of state, our
particular friend, has been kind enough to interest himself in the
matter, though with indifferent hopes of success. A few days ago
he sent me his correspondence with Sefior Posada, who observes
that the Adce-queens alone had the p:rivilege of the entree, and seems
to hesitate a good deal as to the advisableness of granting a permisson
which might be considered a precedent for others. However, I
think he is too amiable to resist our united entreaties. I hold out
as an argument, that C  n, being the duplicado of the queen her
self, my visit is equal to that of the vice-queen, which argument
has at least amused him. His consecration is fixed for the 31st of
May. Don Pedro Fonti, the last archbishop named in the time of the
Spanish dominion, having renounced the mitre, three illustrious
churchmen were proposed to fill the vacant place : this Don Manuel
Posada, Don Antonio Campos, and Dr. Don Jose Maria de Santiago.
The first was chosen by the Mexican government, and was after
wards proclaimed in the Roman Consistory last December, with the
approbation of Gregory XVI. They are noAv only waiting for the
pontifical bulls, which are daily expected from Rome ; and it is said
that the ceremony, which wih take place in the cathedral, wih be
very magnificent.

102 MUSEUM.
April 3d. — Accompanied by the  minister, we spent yester
day in visiting the Mineria, the Botanic Garden, the Museum, &e.,
ah which leave a certain disagreeable impression on the mind, since,
without having the dignity of ruins, they are fine buildings neglected.
The Mineria, or School of Mines, the work of the famous architect
and sculptor Tolsa, is a magnificent building, a palace whose fine
proportions would render it remarkable amongst the finest edifices of
any European country. Ah is on a great scale, its noble rows of
pillars, great staircases, large apartments, and lofty roofs, but it re
minds one of a golden aviary, containing a few common sparrows.
Several rich Spaniards contributed more than six hundred thousand
dohars to its construction. We were shoAvn through the whole of this
admirable building by the director, who occupies a very handsome
house attached to it. But however learned the professors may be,
and amongst them is the scientific Sefior del Rio, now very old,
but a man of great learning and research ; the collection of minerals,
the instruments and models, are ah miserable and ill kept.
The Botanic Garden, within the palace, is a smah Hi-kept en
closure, where there stih remains some rare plants of the immense
collection made in the time of the Spanish government, when
great progress was made in ah the natural sciences, four hundred
thousand dohars having been expended in botanical expeditions
alone. Courses of botanical lectures were then given annually by
the most learned professors, and the taste for natural history was
uruversal. El Arbol de las Manitas (the tree of the smah hands) was the most
curious which we saw in the garden. The flower is of a bright, scarlet
in the form of a hand, with five fingers and a thumb ; and it is said
that there are only three of these trees in the repubhc. The gardener
is an old Italian, who came over with one of the viceroys, and
though now one hundred and ten years old, and nearly bent double,
possesses ah his faculties. The garden is pretty from the age of the
trees, and luxuriance of the flowers, but melancholy as a proof of the
decay of the science is Mexico. The palace itself, now occupied by
the president, formerly belonged to Cortes, and was ceded by his
descendants to the government. In exchange they received the
ground formerly occupied by the palace of the Aztec kings, and
built on it a very splendid edifice, where the state archives are kept,
and where the Monte Pio (the office Avhere money is lent on plate,
jewels, &c.) now is, the director of winch is Don Francisco Tagle,
whose apartments within the building are very elegant and spacious.
The Museum within the University, and opposite the palace, in
the plaza cahed del Volador, contains many rare and valuable works,
many curious Indian antiquities, but they are hi arranged. On the
walls are the portraits of the vice-kings, beginning Avith Hernan
Cortes. We spent a long while here examining these antiquities;
but we have seen nothing in Mexico to equal the beauty of the
colossal equestrian statue in bronze of Charles IV., placed on
a pedestal of Mexican marble, which stands in the court of the

APPROACH OF THE HOLY WEEK. 103
University, but formerly adorned the middle of the square. It is a
magnificent piece of sculpture, the masterpiece of Tolosa, remarkable
for the noble simplicity and purity of its style, and was made at the
expense of an ex-viceroy, the Marquis of Branciforte. We also saw
the goddess of war lying in a corner of the court, beside the stone
of sacrifices, which we had already been shown.
To-day we have been visiting the Academy of painting and
sculpture, cahed the Academy of Fine Arts, of which I unfortunately
recohected having read Humboldt's brilhant account, in my forcibly
prolonged studies on board the Jason, and that he mentions its
having had the most favourable influence in forming the national
taste._ He tehs us, that every night, in these spacious halls, weh
ihuminated by Argand lamps, hundreds of young men were as
sembled, some sketching from the plaster-casts, or from life, and
others copying designs of furniture, candelabras and other bronze
ornaments ; and that here ah classes, colours, and races, were mingled
together; the Indian beside the white boy, and the son of the
poorest mechanic beside that of the richest lord. Teaching was
gratis, and not hmited to landscape and figures, one of the principal
objects being to propagate amongst the artists a general taste for
elegance and beauty of form, and to enliven the national industry.
Plaster-casts, to the amount of forty thousand dohars, were sent out
by the King of Spain; and as they possess in the Academy various
colossal statues of basalt and porphyry, with Aztec hieroglyphics, it
would have been curious, as the same learned traveller remarks, to
have cohected these monuments in the courtyard of the Academy, and
compared the remains of Mexican sculpture, monuments of a semi-
barbarous people, with the graceful creations of Greece and Rome.
Let no one Aasit the Academy with these recollections or antici
pations in his mind. . . . That the simple and noble taste which
distinguishes the Mexican buildings, their perfection in the cutting
and working of their stones, the chaste ornaments of the capitals and
rehevoes, are owing to the progress they made in this very Academy,
is no doubt the case. The remains of these beautiful but mutilated
plaster-casts, the splendid engravings which still exist, would alone
make it probable; but the present disorder, the abandoned state of
the building, the non-existence of these excehent classes of sculpture
and painting, and, above ah, the low state of the fine arts in Mexico,
at the present day, are amongst the sad proofs, if any were wanting,
of the malancholy effects produced by years of civil war and unsettled
government. . . .
The Holy Week is now approaching, and aheady Indians are to
be seen bringing in the palm-branches and the flowers for the altars,
and they are beginning to erect booths and temporary shops, and to
make every preparation for the concourse of people who wih arrive
next Sunday from all the different villages and ranchoes, far and
near.

104

LETTER THE FOURTEENTH.
Palm Sunday-Holy Thursday-Variety of Costumes-San Francisco-Santo
Domingo -Santa Teresa-Nuns-Stone Bust-The Academy— Religious
Procession— Pilgrimage to theChurches-SantaClara-Nun sVoice— Orange-
trees and Rose-bushes— The Cathedral illuminated— Our Saviour in Chains-
Good Friday— The great Square towards Evening— Dresses of men, women,
and children-Approach of the Host— Judas— Great Procession— Miserere—
The Square by Moonlight— A lonely Walk— Sabado de gloria— Ball in contem
plation—Weekly Soirees— Embroidered Muslins— A Tertulia at home.
21st April.
On the morning of Palm Sunday, I went to the Cathedral,
accompanied by Mademoiselle de  , daughter of the  Minister,
We found it no easy matter to make our way through thecrowd,
but at last, by dint of patience and perseverance, and changing our
place very often, we contrived to arrive very near the great altar;
and there we had just taken up our position, when & disinterested
man gave us a friendly hint, that as the whole procession, with their
branches, must inevitably squeeze past the very spot where we were,
we should probably be crushed or suffocated; consequently we foh
lowed him to a more convenient station, also close to the altar and
defended by the raihng, where we found ourselves tolerably weh off,
Two ladies, to whom he made the same proposition, and who re
jected it, we afterwards observed in a sad condition, their mantillas
nearly torn off and the palm-branches sweeping across their eyes.
In a short time, the whole cathedral presented the appearance of
a forest of palm-trees, (a la Birnam wood) moved by a gentle wind;
and under each tree a half-naked Indian, his rags clinging together
with wonderful pertinacity; long, matted, dirty black hair both in
men and women, bronze faces and mild unspeaking eyes, or ah with
one expression of eagerness to see the approach of the priests. Many
of them had probably travelled a long way, and the palms were from
tierra caliente, dried and plaited into all manner of ingenious ways.
Each palm was about seven feet high, so as far to overshadow the
head of the Indian who carried it ; and whenever they are blessed,
they are carried home to adorn the walls of their huts. The priests
arrived, at length, in great pomp; and also carrying palm-branches.
For four mortal hours, we remained kneeling or sitting on the floor,
and thankful we were when it was ah over, and we could make our
way once more into the fresh air.
From this day, during the whole week, all business is suspended,
and but one train of thought occupies ah classes, from the highest to

COSTUMES. 105
the lowest, The peasants flock from every quarter, shops are shut,
churches are opened; and the Divine Tragedy enacted in Syria
eighteen hundred years ago, is now celebrated in land then undis
covered, and by the descendants of nations sunk in Paganism for
centuries after that period.
But amongst the lower classes, the Avorship is emphatically the
worship of Her who Herself predicted, " From henceforth all nations
shall call me blessed." Before her shrines, and at all hours, thousands
are kneeling. With faces expressive of the most intense love and
devotion, and with words of the most passionate adoration, they
address the mild image of the Mother of God. To the Son their
feelings seem composed of respectful pity, of humble but more dis
tant adoration ; while to the Virgin they appear to give all their
confidence, and to look up to her as to a kind and bountiful Queen,
who, dressed in her magnificent robes and jewelled diadem, yet
mourning in ah the agony of her divine sorrows, has condescended
to admit the poorest beggar to participate in her woe, whilst in her
turn she shares in the afflictions of the lowly, feels for their priva
tions, and grants them her all-powerful intercession.
On Holy Thursday nothing can be more picturesque than the
whole appearance of Mexico. No carriages are permitted, and the
ladies being on foot, take the opportunity of displaying ah the riches
of their toilet. On this day velvets and satins are your only wear.
Diamonds and pearls walk the streets. The mantillas are white or
black blonde ; the shoes white or coloured satin. The petticoats are
stih rather short, but it would be hard to hide such small feet, and
such still smaller shoes. " II faut souffrir pour etre belle," but
a quoi bon etre belle? if no one sees it. As for me, I ventured upon
a lilac silk of Palmyre's, and a black mantiha.
The whole city was filled with picturesque figures. After the
higher Sefioras were to be remarked the common women, chiefly in
clear white, very stiffly starched muslins, some very richly embroi
dered, and the petticoat trimmed with lace, white satin shoes, and
the dresses extremely short, which in them looks very weh. A
reboso is thrown over all. Amongst these were many handsome
faces, but in a still lower and more Indian class, with their gay-
coloured petticoats, the faces were sometimes beautiful, and the
figures more upright and graceful; also they invariably walk weh,
whilst many of the higher classes, from tight shoes and want of
custom, seem to feel pain in putting their feet to the ground.^
But none could vie with the handsome Poblana peasants in their
hohday dresses, some so rich and magnificent, that, remembering the
warning of our ministerial friends, I am inchned to beheve them
more showy than respectable. The pure Indians, with whom the
churches and the whole city is crowded, are as ugly as_ can be
imagined; a gentle, dirty and much-enduring race. Still with their
babies at their backs, going along at their usual gentle trot, they add
much to the general effect of the coup-d'ceil.

106 SANTA TERESA LA NUEVA.
We walked to San Francisco about ten o'clock, and the body of
the church being crowded, went up stairs to a private gahery with
a gilded grating, belonging to the Countess de Santiago, and here
we had the advantage of seats, besides a fine view of the whole.
This church is very splendid, and the walls were hung with canvass
paintings representing different passages of our Savdour's life; his
entry into Jerusalem, the woman of Samaria at the weh, &c, which,
with the palm-trees, had a cool and oriental effect.
Before the altar, which was dazzhng with jewels, was a repre
sentation of the Lord's Supper, not in painting, but in sculptured
figures as large as fife, habited in the Jewish dresses. The bishops
and priests were in a blaze of gold and jewels. They were assisted
during the ceremony by the young Count of Santiago. The music
was extremely good, and the whole effect impressive. We visited
several churches in the course of the day, and continued walking
until four o'clock, when we went to dine with our friends the A  's.
After dinner, one of their coachmen, a handsome Mexican, in a
superb dress, ah embroidered in gold, was cahed up stahs to dance
the Jarabe to us with a country girl. The dance is monotonous,
but they acquitted themselves to perfection.
We then continued our pilgrimage through the city, though, as
the sun had not yet set, we reserved our chief admiration until the
churches should be ihuminated. One, however, we entered at sun
set, which was worthy of remark — Santo Domingo. It looked like
a httle Paradise, or a story in the Arabian Nights. Ah the steps up
the altar were covered with pots of beautiful flowers ; orange-trees,
loaded Avith fruit and blossom, and rose-bushes in full bloom, glasses
of coloured water, and ah kinds of fruit. Cages full of birds, singing
dehghtfully, hung from the wah, and reahy fine paintings filled up
the intervals. A gay carpet covered the floor, and in front of the
altar, instead of the usual representation of the SaAriour crucified, a
httle Infant Jesus, beautifully done in wax, was lying amidst flowers
with httle angels surrounding him. Add to this, the music of
Romeo and Juliet, and you may imagine that it was more like a
scene in an opera, than any tiring in a church. But certainly, as the
rays of the setting sun streamed with a rosy hght through the
stained windows, throwing a glow over the whole ; birds, and flowers,
and fruit, paintings and angels, it was the prettiest and most fan
tastic scene I ever beheld, like something expressly got up for the
benefit of children.
We did not kneel before each altar for more than three minutes,
otherwise we should never have had time even to enter the innu
merable churches which we visited in the course of the night. We
next went to Santa Teresa la Nueva, a handsome church, belonging
to a convent of strict nuns, which was now brilliantly illuminated;
and here, as in all the churches, we made our Avay through the crowd
Avith extreme difficulty. The number of leperos was astonishing,
greatly exceeding that of well-dressed people. Before each altar

PROCESSION. 107
was a figure, dreadful in the extreme, of the Saviour, as large as hfe,
dressed m purple robe and crown of thorns, seated on the steps or
the altar, the blood trickling from his wounds; each person, before
leaving the church, devoutly kneehng to kiss his hands and feet.
The nuns, amongst whom is a sister of Sefior A  s, sung behind
the grating in the gahery above, but were not visible.
One of the churches we visited, that of Santa Teresa, called the
Antigua, stands upon the site formerly occupied by the palace of the
father of the unfortunate Montezuma. It was here that the Spaniards
were quartered when they took Montezuma prisoner, and here
Cortes found and appropriated the treasures of that family. In 1830
a bust of stone was found in the yard of the convent, which the
workmen were digging up. Don Lucas Alaman, then Minister of
Exterior Relations, offered a compensation to the nuns for the
curious piece of antiquity, which they gladly gave up to the govern
ment, on whose account he acted. It is said to be the idol goddess
of the Indians, Centeotl, the goddess of medicine and medicinal herbs,
also known by the name of Temaz calteci, or the " Grandmother of
the Baths." A fuh account is given of her in one of the numbers of
the " Mosaico Megicano," as also of a square stone found in the
same place, beautifuhy carved, and covered with hieroglyphical
characters. In the evening, towards the hour when the great procession was
expected, we went to the balconies of the Academia, which com
mand a fine view of the streets by which it was to pass. Till it
arrived we amused ourselves by looking over the beaux restes of
former days, the cohections of painting and sculpture, the fine plas
ter-casts that still remain, and the great volumes of fine engravings.
It was dark when the procession made its appearance, which ren
dered the effect less gaudy and more striking. The Virgin, the
Saints, the Holy Trinity, the Saviour in different passages of his
hfe, imprisonment and crucifixion, were carried past in succession,
represented by figures magnificently dressed, placed on lofty scaft
foldings of immense weight, supported by different bodies of men.
One is carried by the coachmen, another by the aguadores (water-
carriers), a third by the cargadores (porters), a Herculean race.
First arrived the favourite protectress of ah classes, the Virgin of
Dolores, surmounted by a velvet canopy, seated on a glittering
throne, attired in her sable robes, her brow surmounted by glittering
rays, and contracted with an expression of agony; of ah represent
ations of the Virgin, the only one which is always lovely, however
rudely carved, with that invariably beautiful face of terrible anguish.
Then fohowed the Saviour bearing the cross ; the SaAaour crucified,
the Virgin supporting the head of her dying son ; the Trinity (the
Holy Spirit represented by a dove) ; ah the apostles, from St. Peter
with the keys to Judas with the money-bag ; and a long train of
saints, ah brilliantly ihuminated and attended by an amazing crowd
of priests, monks, and laymen. However childish and superstitious

108 SANTA CLARA.
ah this may seem, I doubt whether it be not as weh thus to impress
certain religious truths on the minds of a people too ignorant to un
derstand them by any other process. By the time the last saint and
angel had vanished, the hour was advanced, and we had still to visit
the ihuminated churches. Being recommended to divest ourselves
of our ornaments before wandering forth amongst the crowd, a
matter of some moment to the Sefiora A  , who wore ah her
diamonds, we left our earrings, brooches, &c, in charge of the per
son who keeps the Academia, and recommenced our pilgrimage.
Innumerable were the churches we visited that evening ; the Ca
thedral, La Ensenanza, Jesus Maria, Santa Clara, Santa Brigida,
San Hipolito, La Encarnacion, the five churches of San Francisco,
&c. &c, a hst without an end, kneeling for a short space of time be
fore each blazing altar, for the more churches one visits, the more
meritorious is the devotion. .The cathedral was the first we entered,
and its magnificence struck us with amazement. Its gold and silver
and jewels, its innumerable ornaments and holy vessels, the rich
dresses of the priests, ah seemed burning in almost intolerable bright
ness. The high altar was the most magnificent; the second, with its.
pure white marble pillars, the most imposing.
The crowd was immense, but we made our way slowly through it
to the foot of each altar, where the people were devoutly kissing the
Saviour's hand or the hem of his garment ; or beating their breasts
before the mild image of Our Lady of Grief. Each church had
vied with the other in putting forth ah its splendour of jewehery, of
lights, of dresses, and of music.
, In the church of Santa Clara, attached to the convent of the same
name, small but elegant, with its pihars of white marble and gold,
one voice of angehc sweetness was singing behind the grating alone,
and in the midst of a most deathlike stillness. It sounded hke the
notes of a nightingale in a cage. I could have hstened for hours,
but our time was limited, and we set off anew. Fortunately the
evening was dehghtful, and the moon shining brightly. We visited
about twenty churches in succession. In ah the organ was pealing,
the blaze of light overpowering the magnificence of jewels and crim
son velvet and silver and gold dazzling, the crowd suffocating, the
incense bhnding.
The prettiest effect in every church was caused by the orange-
trees and rose-bushes, which covered the steps of the altars, up to
where the magnificence of the altar itself blazed out ; and the most
picturesque effect was produced by the different orders of monks in
their gowns and hoods, either lying on their faces or standing ranged
with torches hke figures carved in stone.
In the passage leading to most of the churches was a table, at
which several ladies of the highest rank sat cohecting alms for the
poor. The fair queteuses had not been very successfid, and that
chiefly amongst the lower classes. The fatigue was terrible, walking
for so many hours on that bad pavement Avith thin satin shoes, so

THE SQUARE. 109
that at length our feet seemed to move mechanically, and we
dropped on our knees before each altar hke machines touched by a
spring, and rose again with no small effort. Of ah the churches we
entered that night, the cathedral was the most magnificent, but the
most beautiful and tasteful was San Francisco. The crowd there
was so dense, that we were almost carried off our feet, and were
obliged, in defiance of ah rule, to take the arms of our caballeros.
Still it was worth the trouble of making our way through it to see
such a superbly illuminated altar. It was now eleven o'clock, and
the crowd were breaking up as the churches are shut before mid
night. In one corner of the middle aisle, near the door, was the
representation of a prison from which issued a stream of soft music,
and at the window was a figure of Christ in chains, his eyes
bandaged, and a Jew on each side ; the chains hanging from his
hands, and clanking as if with the motion of his arms. The rush
here was immense. Numbers of people were kneehng before the
window of the prison, and kissing the chains and beating their
breasts with every appearance of contrition and devotion. This
was the night before the Crucifixion, and the last scene of the Holy
Thursday. We reached home hardly able to stand. I never felt more dazzled,
bewildered, and sleepy; but I was wakened by finding a packet 01
letters from home, which brought back my thoughts, or rather car
ried them away to very different lands.
On Good Friday, a day of sorrow and humihation, the scene in
the morning is very different. The great sacrifice is complete — the
Immortal has died a mortal death. The ladies all issue forth in
mourning, and the churches look sad and wan after their last night's
brilliancy. The heat was intense. We went to San Francisco, again
to the Tribuna of the Countess de Santiago, to see the Adoration
and Procession of the Cross, which was very fine.
But the most beautiful and original scene was presented towards
sunset in the great square, and it is doubtful whether any other city
in the world could present a coup-d'ail of equal brilliancy. HaAring
been offered the entree to some apartments in the palace, we took
our seats on the balconies, which commanded a Ariew of the whole.
The Plaza itself, even on ordinary days, is a noble square, and but
for its one fault, a row of shops cahed the Parian, which breaks its
uniformity, would be nearly unrivalled. Every object is interesting.
The eye wanders from the cathedral to the house of Cortes (the
Monte Pio), and from thence to a range of fine buildings with
lofty arcades to the west. From our elevated situation, we could
see all the different streets that branch out from the square, covered
with gay crowds pouring in that direction to see another great pro
cession, which was expected to pass in front of the palace. Booths
filled with refreshments, and covered with green branches and gar
lands of flowers, were to be seen in all directions, surrounded by a

110 INDIAN BABIES.
crowd who were quenching their thirst with orgeat, chia* lemon
ade, or pulque. The whole square, from the cathedral to the Por-
tales, and from the Monte Pio to the palace, was covered with
thousands and tens of thousands of figures, ah in their gayest
dresses, and as the sun poured his rays down upon their gaudy
colours, they looked hke armies of living tulips. Here was to be
seen a group of ladies, some with black gowns and mantillas ;
others, now that their church-going duty was oyer, equipped in vel
vet or satin, with their hair dressed, — and beautiful hair they have;
some leading their children by the hand, dressed ._ . . alas ! how
they were dressed ! Long velvet gowns trimmed with blonde, dia
mond earrings, high French caps befurbelowed with lace and
flowers, or turbans with plumes of feathers. Now and then the
head of a httle thing that could hardly waddle alone, might have
belonged to an Enghsh dowager-duchess in her opera-box. Some
had extraordinary bonnets, also with flowers and feathers, and as
they toddled along, top heavy, one would have thought they were
httle old women, till a glimpse was caught of their lovely httle
brown faces and black eyes. Now and then a httle girl, simply
dressed with a short frock, and long black hair plaited down and
uncovered, would trip along, a very model of grace amongst the
smah caricatures. The children here are generahy beautiful, their
features only too perfect and regular for the face " to fulfil the pro
mise of its spring." They have httle colour, with swimming black
or hazel eyes, and long lashes resting on the clear pale cheek, and
a perfect mass of fine dark hair of the straight Spanish or Indian
kind plaited down behind.
As a contrast to the Sefioras, with their over-dressed beauties,
were the poor Indian women, trotting across the square, their black
hair plaited with dirty red ribbon, a piece of woohen cloth wrapped
round them, and a little mahogany baby hanging behind, its faee
upturned to the sky, and its head going jerking along, somehow
without its neck being dislocated. The most resigned expression on
earth is that of an Indian baby. Ah the groups we had seen pro
menading the streets the day before were here collected by hundreds;
the women of the shopkeeper class, or it may be lower, in their
smart white embroidered gowns, with their white satin shoes, and
neat feet and ankles, and rebosos or bright shawls thrown over their
heads ; the peasants and countrywomen, Avith their short petticoats of
two colours, generally scarlet and yellow (for they are most anti-
quakerish in their attire), thin satin shoes and lace-trimmed chemises,
or bronze-coloured damsels, all crowned with flowers, strolling along
with their admirers, and tingling their hght guitars. And above
ah, here and there a flashing Poblana, with a dress of real value and
much taste, and often with a face and figure of extraordinary beauty,
* A drink made of the seed of the plant of that name.

FIGURES OF JUDAS. Ill
especiahy the figure; large, and yet elancee, with a bold coquettish
eye, and a beautiful little brown foot, shown off by the white satin
shoe ; the petticoat of her dress frequently fringed and embroidered
in real massive gold, and a reboso either shot with gold, or a bright-
coloured China crape shawl, coquettishly thrown over her head.
We saw several whose dresses could not have cost less than five
hundred dohars.
Add to this motley crowd, men dressed a la Mexicaine, Avith
their large ornamented hats and serapes, or embroidered jackets,
sauntering along, smoking their cigars, leperos in rags, Indians in
blankets, officers in uniform, priests in their shovel hats, monks of
every order ; Frenchmen exercising their wit upon the passers-by ;
Englishmen looking cold and philosophical; Germans gazing through
their spectacles, mild and mystical; Spaniards seeming pretty much
at home, and abstaining from remarks; and it may be conceived that
the scene at least presented variety. Sometimes the tinkling of the
bell announced the approach of Nuestro Amo. Instantly the whole
crowd are on their knees, crossing themselves devoutly. Two men
who were fighting below the window suddenly dropped down side
by side. Disputes were hushed, flirtations arrested, and to the busy
hum of voices succeeded a profound silence. Only the rolling of the
coach-wheels and the sound of the little bell were heard.
No sooner had it passed than the talkers and the criers recom
menced with fresh vigour. The venders of hot chestnuts and cool
ing beverages phed their trade more briskly than ever. A mihtary
band struck up an air from Semiramis ; and the noise of the innu
merable matracas (rattles), some of wood and some of silver, with
which every one is armed during the last days of the holy week,
-broke forth again as if by magic, while again commenced the sale of
the Judases, fireworks in the form of that arch-traitor, which are sold
on the evening of Good Friday, and let off on Saturday morning.
Hundreds of these hideous figures where held above the crowd, by
men who carried them tied together on long poles. An ugly mis
shapen monster they represent the betrayer to have been. When he
sold his Master for thirty pieces of silver, did he dream that in the
lapse of ages his effigies should be held up to the execration of a
Mexican mob, of an unknown people in undiscovered countries
beyond the seas? — A secret bargain, perhaps made whisperingly in a
darkened chamber with the fierce Jewish rulers; but now shouted
forth in the ears of the descendants of Montezuma and Cortes !
But the sound of a distant hymn rose on the air, and shortly after
there appeared, advancing towards the square, a long and pompous
retinue of mitred priests, with banners and crucifixes and gorgeous
imagery, conducting a procession in which figures representing
scenes concerning the death of our Saviour, were carried by on plat
forms, as they were the preceding evening. There was the Virgin m
mourning at the foot of the cross— the Virgin in gloxy— and more
saints and more angels— St. Michael and the dragon, &c. &c, a

112 MISERERE.
glittering and innumerable train. Not a sound was heard as the
figures were carried slowly onwards in their splendid robes, hghted
by thousands of tapers, which mingled theh unnatural glare with
the fading hght of day.
As the Miserere was to be performed in the cathedral late in the
evening, we went here, though with smah hopes of making our way
through the tremendous crowd. Having at length been admitted
through a private entrance, per favour, we made our way. into the
body of the church; but the crowd was so intolerable, that we
thought of abandoning our position, when we were seen and recog
nised by some of the priests, and conducted to a railed-off enclosure
near the shrine of the Virgin, with the luxury of a Turkey carpet*
Here, separated from the crowd, we sat dovm in peace on the
ground. The gentlemen were accommodated with high-backed
chairs beside some ecclesiastics ; for men may sit on chairs or
benches in church, but women must kneel or sit on the ground.
Why ? " Quien sabe ?" " Who knows?" is ah the satisfaction I have
ever obtained on that point.
The music began with a crash that wakened me out of an
agreeable slumber into which I had gradually fahen ; and such dis
cordance of instruments and voices, such confusion worse confounded,
such inharmonious harmony, never before deafened mortal ears.
The very spheres seemed out of tune, and rolhng and crashing over
each other. I could have cried Miserere ! Avith the loudest; and in
the midst of ah the undrihed band was a music-master, with violin-
stick uplifted, rushing desperately from one to the other, in vain en
deavouring to keep time, and frightened at the clamour he himself
had been instrumental in raising, Hke Phaeton intrusted with his un
manageable coursers. The noise was so great as to be really alarm
ing ; and the heat was severe in proportion. The calm face of the
Virgin seemed to look reproachfully down. We were thankful
when, at the conclusion of this stormy appeal for mercy, we were
able to make our way into the fresh air and soft moonhght, through
the confusion and squeezing at the doors, where it was rumoured
that a soldier had killed a baby with his bayonet. A bad place for
poor little babies — decidedly.
Outside, in the square, it was cool and agreeable. A military
band was playing airs from the Norma, and the womankind were
sitting on the stones of the railing, or wandering about and finishing
their day's work by a quiet flirtation au clair de la lune.
It was now eleven o'clock, and the pulquerais were thrown open
for the refreshment of the faithful, and though hitherto much order
had prevailed, it was not hkely to endure much longer; notwith
standing which, we had the imprudence to walk unattended to our
own house at San Fernando. In the centre of the city there
seemed no danger. People were still walking, and a few still drink
ing at the lighted booths ; but when we arrived at the lower part of
the Alameda, ah was still, and as we walked outside, under the long

A BALL IN CONTEMPLATION. 113
shadows of the trees, I expected every moment to be attacked, and
wished we were anywhere, even on the silvery top of Popocatepetl I
We passed several crowded pulquerias, where some were drinking
and others drunk. Arrived at the arches, we saw from time to time
a suspicious blanketed figure hah hid by the shadow of the wall. A
few doors from our own domicile was a pulque shop filled with
leperos, of whom some were standing at the door, shrouded in their
blankets. It seemed to me we should never pass them, but we
walked fast, and reached our door in safety. Here we thundered in
vain. The_ porter was asleep, and for nearly ten minutes we heard
voices within, male and female, ineffectually endeavouring to per
suade the heavy-headed Cerberus to rehnquish his keys. It would
have been a choice moment for our friends, had any of them wished
to accost us; but either they had not observed us, or perhaps they
thought that C  n walking so late must have been armed; or
perhaps, more charitable construction, they had profited by the
solemnities of the day.
We got in at last, and I felt thankful enough for shelter and
safety, and as wearied of the day's performances as you may be in
reading a description of them.
Next morning, Sabado de Gloria, I could not persuade myseh to
go as far as the Plaza, to see the Iscariots explode. At a distance
we listened to the hissing and crackling of the fireworks, the ring
ing of all the bells, and the thundering of artillery; and knew by the
hum of busy voices, and the rolhng of carriages, that the Holy
Week was numbered with the past 
We hear that it is in contemplation amongst the Enghsh here,
headed by their Minister, to give a ball in the Mineria, to celebrate
the marriage of Queen Victoria, which will be turning these splen
did hahs to some account 
I have some intention of giving a series of weekly soirees, but am
assured that they wih not succeed, because hitherto such parties have
failed. As a reason, is given the extravagant notions of the ladies
in point of dress, and it is said that nothing but a bah where they
can wear jewels and a toilet therewith consistent wih please them ;
. that a lady of high rank who had been in Madrid, having proposed
simple tertuhas and white mushn dresses, half the men in Mexico
were ruined that year by the embroidered French and India mushns
bought by their wives during this reign of simphcity; the idea of a
plain white mushn, a dress worn by any leper a, never haAdng struck
them as possible. Nevertheless we can but make the attempt.
We propose going next week to Tulansingo, where our friends
the  have a country place, from thence we proceed to visit the
mines of Real del Monte.
23d. — On Monday we gave a Tertulia, which, notwithstanding ah
predictions, went off remarkably well, and consisted of nearly ah the
pleasantest people in Mexico. We had music, dancing, and cards,
and at three in the morning the German cotillon was stih in full
I

114 LETTER FROM THE ARCHBISHOP.
vigour. Every one was disposed to be amused, and, moreover, the
young ladies were dressed very simply; most of them in plain white
mushns. There was but a smah sprinkling of diamonds, and that
chiefly among the elderly part of the community. Stih it is said
that the novelty alone induced them to come, and_ that weekly
soirees wih not succeed. We shah try. Besides which, the Lady
of the  Minister proposes being At home on Wednesday even
ings; the Lady of the  Minister takes another evening; I, a
third, and we shah see what can be effected.

LETTER THE FIFTEENTH.
Letter from the Archbishop — Visit to the " Encarnacion" — Reception — De
scription — The Novices — Convent-supper — Picturesque Scene — Sonata on the
Organ — Attempt at Robbery — Alarms of the Household — Visit to San Agus
tin — Anonymous Letter — The Virgin de los Remedios — Visit to the Chapel —
The Padre — The Image — Anecdote of the large Pearl — A Mine. 24th.
The Archbishop has not only granted me permission to visit the
convents, but permits me to take two ladies along with me, of which
I have been informed by the Minister, Sefior C  o, in a very
amiable note just received, enclosing one from Sefior Posada, which
I translate for your edification.
To His Excellency, Senor Don J. de D. C  o.
April 24th, 1842.
My dear Friend and Companion :
The Abbess and Nuns of the Convent of the Encarnacion are
now prepared to receive the visit of our three pilgrims, next Sunday,
at half-past four in the afternoon, and should that day not suit them,
let them mention what day wih be convenient.
Afterwards we shah arrange their visit to the Concepcion, En-
sefianza Antigua, and Jesus Maria, which are the best, and I shall
let you know, and we shall agree upon the days and hours most
suitable. I remain your affectionate friend and Capellan,
Manuel Posada.
27th. — Accordingly, on Sunday afternoon, we drove to the
Encarnacion, the most splendid and richest convent in Mexico, ex-

NUNS AND NOVICES. 115
cepting perhaps la Concepcion. If it were in any other country, I
might mention the surpassing beauty of the evening, but as except
in the rainy season, which has not yet begun, the evenings are always
beautiful, the weather leaves no room for description. The sky
always blue, the air always soft, the flowers always blossoming, the
the birds always singing; Thomson never could have written his
" Seasons " here. We descended at the convent gate, were ad
mitted by the portress, and received by several nuns, their faces
closely covered with a double crape veil. We were then led into a
spacious hah, hung with handsome lustres, and adorned with various
Virgins and Saints magnificently dressed ; and here the eldest, a very
dignified old lady, lifted her veil, the others following her example,
and introduced herself as the Madre Vicaria ; bringing us many ex
cuses from the old Abbess, who having an inflammation in her eyes,
was confined to her cell. She and another reverend mother, and a
group of elderly dames, tah, thin, and stately, then proceeded to in
form us, that the Archbishop had, in person, given orders for our
reception and that they were prepared to show us the whole esta
blishment. The dress is a long robe of very fine white casimere, a thick black
crape veil, and long rosary. The dress of the novices is the same,
only that the veil is white. For the first half-hour or so, I fancied,
that along with their pohteness, was mingled a good deal of restraint,
caused perhaps by the presence of a foreigner, and especially of an
Enghshwoman. My companions they knew well; the Senorita
having even passed some months there. However this may have been,
the feeling seemed graduahy to wear away. Kindness or curiosity
triumphed ; their questions became unceasing ; and before the visit
was concluded, I was addressed as " mi vida," my hfe, by the whole
establishment. Where was I born ? Where had I hved ? What
convents had I seen ? Which did I prefer, the convents in France,
or those in Mexico ? Which were largest ? Which had the best
garden ? &c. &c. Fortunately, I could, with truth, give the pre
ference to their convent, as to spaciousness and magnificence,
over any I ever saw.
The Mexican style of building is pecuharly advantageous for re
cluses; the great galleries and courts affording them a constant sup
ply of fresh air, while the fountains sound so cheerfully, and the
garden in this chmate of perpetual spring affords them such a constant
source of enjoyment all the year round, that one pities their secluded
state much less here than in any other country.
This convent is in fact a palace. The garden, into which they
led us first, is kept in good order, with its stone walks, stone
benches, and an ever-playing and sparkhng fountain. The trees
were bending with fruit, and they pulled quantities of the most
beautiful flowers for us; sweat-peas and roses, with which ah gardens
here abound, carnations, jasmine, and heliotrope. It was a pretty.
picture to see them wandering about, or standing in groups in this
1 2

116 CONVENT-SUPPER.
high-walled garden, while the sun was setting behind the hills, and
the noise of the city was completely excluded, every thing breathing
repose and contentment. Most of the hahs in the convent are noble
rooms. We visited the whole, from the refectory to the botica, and
admired the extreme cleanness of every thing, especiahy of the im
mense kitchen, which seems hallowed from the approach even of a par
ticle of dust ; this circumstance is partly accounted for by the fact that
each nun has a servant, and some have two ; for this is not one of
the strictest orders. The convent is rich ; each novice at her entrance
pays five thousand dohars into the common stock. There are about
thirty nuns and ten novices.
The prevailing sin in a convent generally seems to be pride;
" The pride that apes humility ;"
and it is perhaps nearly inseparable from the conventual state. Set
apart from the rest of the world, they, from theh httle world, are
too apt to look down with contempt which may be mingled with
envy, or modified by pity, but must be unsuited to a true Christian
spirit. The novices were presented to us — poor httle entrapped things !
who reahy beheve they wih be let out at the end of the year if they
should grow tired, as if they would ever be permitted to grow tired !
The two eldest and most reverend ladies are sisters, thin, tall, and
stately, with high noses, and remains of beauty. They have been
in the convent since they were eight years old (which is remarkable,
as sisters are rarely allowed to profess in the same establishment), and
consider La Encarnacion as a smah piece of heaven upon earth.
There were some handsome faces amongst them, and one whose ex
pression and eyes were singularly lovely, but truth to say, these
were rather exceptions to the general rule.
Having Aasited the whole building, and admired one Aargin's blue
satin and pearls, and another's black velvet and diamonds, sleeping
holy infants, saints, paintings, shrines, and confessionals, having even
chmbed up the Azotea, which commands a magnificent view, we
came at length to a large hall, decorated with paintings and fur
nished with antique high-backed arm-chairs, where a very elegant
supper, hghted up and ornamented, greeted our astonished eyes ;
cakes, chocolate, ices, creams, custards, tarts, jellies, blancmangers,
orange and lemonade, and other profane dainties, ornamented with
gilt paper cut into little flags, &c. I was placed, in a chair that
might have served for a pope under a holy family ; the Sefiora
 and the Senorita  on either side. The elder nuns in
stately array, occupied the other arm-chairs, and looked hke statues
carved in stone. A young girl, a sort of pensionnaire, brought in
a little harp without pedals, and while we discussed cakes and ices,
sung different ballads with a good deal of taste. The elder nuns
helped us to every thing, but tasted nothing themselves. The
younger nuns and the novices were grouped upon a mat a la

ROBBERS. 117
Turque, and a more picturesque scene altogether one could scarcely
see. The young novices with their white robes, white veils and black
eyes, the severe and dignified madres with their long dresses and
mournful-looking black veils and rosaries, the veiled figures occa
sionally flitting along the corridor ; — ourselves in contrast, with our
worldly dresses and coloured ribbons; and the great hah hghted by
one immense lamp that hung from the ceihng — I felt transported
three centuries back, and half afraid that the whole would flit away,
and prove a mere vision, a waking dream.
A gossiping old nun, who hospitably filled my plate with every
thing, gave me the enclosed flag cut in gilt paper, which, together
with her custarda and jellies, looked less unreal. They asked many
questions in regard to Spanish affairs, and were not to be consoled
for the defeat of Don Carlos, which they feared would be an end of
the true religion in Spain.
After supper we proceeded up stairs to the choir (where the nuns
attend pubhc worship, and which looks down upon the handsome
convent church) to try the organ. I was set down to a Sonata of
Mozart's, the servants blowing the bellows. It seems to me that I
made more noise than music, for the organ is very old, perhaps as
old as the convent, which dates three centuries back. However,
the nuns were pleased, and after they had sung a hymn, we returned
helow. I was rather sorry to leave them, and felt as if I could have
passed some time there very contentedly ; but it was near nine
o'clock, and we were obhged to take our departure ; so haAring been
embraced very cordially by the whole community, we left the hos
pitable walls of the Encarnacion. . . .
28th. — Last evening we were sitting at home very quietly about
ten o'clock, C  n, Monsieur de  , of the  Legation, and
I, when A  rushed into the room all dishevelled. " Come
quickly, sir ! Robbers are breaking open the kitchen-door !" A
succession of feminine shrieks in the distance, added effect to her
words. C  n jumped up, ran for his pistols, gave one to Mon
sieur de  , called up the soldiers, but no robbers appeared. The
kitchen-door was indeed open, and the trembhng galopina attested,
that being in the kitchen alone, dimly hghted by one small lamp,
three men, all armed, had entered, and had rushed out again on
hearing her give the alarm. We somewhat doubted her assertions,
but the next morning found that the men had in fact escaped by the
Azotea, a great assistance to all Mexican depredators. At the end
of this row of houses the people ran out and fired upon them, but
without effect. The house of the old Countess of S — — F 
has been broken into, her porter wounded, report says kihed, and
her plate carried off. In the mean time our soldiers watch in the
kitchen, a pair of loaded pistols adorn the table, a double-barrehed
gun stands in the corner, and a buh-dog growls in the gallery. This
httle passing visit to us was probably caused by the arrival of some

118 ANONYMOUS LETTER.
large boxes from London, especiahy of a very fine harp and P"*?0*
both Erard"s, which I had the pleasure of seeing unpacked this
morning, and which, in spite of jolting and bad roads, have arrived
in perfect condition. ... . .
Thus far I had written, it being now the evening, and I sitting
alone, when a succession of shrieks arose, even more awful than
those which alarmed us last night. At the same time the old galo-
pina, her daughter, and a French ghl who hves here, rushed shout
ing along the gallery; not a word they said comprehensible, but
something concerning " a robber in black, with men at his back,
who had burst open the door." At the noise the whole household
had assembled. One ran this way, one Tan that. A httle French
trinturier, who it appeared had been paying the maids a pohte_ visit,
seized the loaded gun ; the footman took a pistol and hid himself
behind the porter; A  , hke a second Joan of Arc, appeared,
with a rusty sabre ; the soldiers rushed up with their bayonets ; the
coachman stood aloof with nothing ; the porter led up the rear,
holding a large dog by the collar; but no robber appears; and the
girls are ah sobbing and crying because we doubt their having seen
one. Galopina the younger shedding tears in torrents, swears to
the man. Galopina the elder, enveloped in her reboso, swears to any
number of men ; and the recamerera has cried herself into a fit be
tween fear and indignation.
Such is the agreeable state of things about nine o'clock this eve
ning, for one real attempt to enter the house, invariably gives rise
to a thousand imaginary attacks and fanciful alarms. . . .
After many attempts at walking, I have very nearly abandoned it,
but take a great deal of exercise both on horseback and in the carriage;
which last, on account of the ill-paved condition of the streets,
affords rather more exercise than the former. I drove out this
morning in an open carriage with the Senorita E  to her
country-house at San Agustin, the gambling emporium. But the
famous annual fete does not take place till Whitsunday, and the pretty
country villas there are at present abandoned. We walked in the
garden till the sun became insupportable. The fragrance of the
loses and jasmine was almost overpowering. There are trees of
mihefleur roses ; hehotrope and honeysuckle cover every pillar, and
yehow jasmine trails over every thing.
Found on my return an anonymous letter, begging me to '' be
ware of my cook !" and signed Fernandez. Having shown it to
some gentlemen who dined here, one thought it might be a plan of
the robbers to get rid of the cook, whom they considered in theh way;
another, with more probability, that it was merely a plan of the at
tentive Sefior Fernandez to get the cook's place for himself. . .
We went lately to pay a visit to the celebrated Virgen de los Re-
medios, the Gachupina, the Spanish patroness, and rival of Our
Lady of Guadalupe. This Virgin Avas brought over by Cortes, and
when he displaced the Indian idols in the great Temple of Mexico,

VIRGEN DE LOS REMEDIOS. 119
caused them to be broken in pieces, and the sanctuary to be puri
fied, he solemnly placed there a crucifix and this image of the Vir
gin ; then kneeling before it, gave solemn thanks to Heaven, which
had permitted him thus to adore the Most High in a place so long
profaned by the most cruel idolatries.
It is said that this image was brought to Mexico by a soldier
of Cortes's army cahed Vihafuerte, and that the day succeeding
the terrible Noche Triste, it was concealed by him in the place
where it was afterwards discovered. At ah events, the image dis
appeared, and nothing further was known of it unth, on the top of
a barren and treeless mountain, in the heart of a large maguey, she
was found by a fortunate Indian. Her restoration was joyfully
hailed by the Spaniards. A church was erected on the spot. A
priest was appointed to take charge of the miraculous image. Her
fame spread abroad. Gifts of immense value were brought to her
shrine. A treasurer was appointed to take care of her jewels ; a
camarista to superintend her rich wardrobe. No rich dowager died
in peace until she had bequeathed to Our Lady of Los Remedios
her largest diamond, or her richest pearl. In seasons of drought
she is brought in from her dwelhng in the mountain, and carried
in procession through the streets. The Viceroy himself on foot
used to lead the holy train. One of the highest rank drives the
chariot in which she is seated. In succession she visits the principal
convents, and as she is carried through the cloistered precincts, the
nuns are ranged on their knees in humble adoration. Plentiful
rains immediately fohow her arrival.  , who accompanied us,
has on several occasions filled the office of her coachman, by which
means he has seen the interior of most of the convents in Mexico. It
is true that there came a time when the famous curate Hidalgo, the
prime mover of the Revolution, having taken as his standard an
image of the Virgin of Guadalupe, a rivalry arose between her and the
Spanish Virgin ; and Hidalgo having been defeated and forced to
fly, the image of the Virgen de los Remedios was conducted to
Mexico dressed as a general, and invoked as the Patroness of Spain.
Later stih, the Virgin herself was denounced as a Gachupina ! her
general's sash boldly torn from her by the vahant General  , who
also signed her passport, with an order for her to leave the Repubhc.
However, she was again restored to her honours, and stih retains her
treasurers, her camarista, and sanctum sanctorum.
Being desirous of seeing this celebrated image, we set off one fine
afternoon in a carriage of  's, drawn by six unbroken horses,
accompanied by him and his lady, and performed four leagues of
bad road in an incredibly short space of time. The horses them
selves were in an eAadent state of astonishment, for after kicking and
plunging, and, as they imagined running away, they found them
selves driven much faster than they had the shghtest intention of
going: so after a httle while they acknowledged, in  's capital
coachman, une main de maitre.
The mountain is barren and lonely, but the view from its sum-

120 A MINE.
mit is beautiful, commanding the whole plain. The church is old
and not very remarkable, yet a picturesque object, as it stands m
its gray solitariness, with one or two trees beside it, of which one
without leaves was entirely covered with the most brihiant scarlet
flowers. Sefior  haA-ing been the Virgin's coachman, the
Sefiora  being the daughter of her camarista, and C — — n the
minister from the land of her predilection, we were not astonished at
the distinguished reception which we met with fr om the reverend
padre, the guardian of the mountain. The church within is hand
some ; and above the altar is a copy of the original Virgin. After
we had remained there a httle while, we were admitted into the
Sanctum, where the identical Virgin of Cortes, with a large silver
maguey, occupies her splendid shrine. The priest retired and put
on his robes, and then retui-ning, and ah kneeling before the altar,
he recited the credo. This over, he mounted the steps, and opening
the shrine where the Virgin was encased, knelt down and removed
her in his arms. He then presented her to each of us in succession,
every one kissing the hem of her satin robe. She was afterwards
replaced Avith the same ceremony.
The image is a wooden doh about a foot high, holding in its arms
an infant Jesus, both faces evidently carved with a rude penknife;
two holes for the eyes and another for the mouth. This doll was
dressed in blue satin and pearls, with a crown upon her head and a
quantity of hair fastened on to the crown. No Indian idol could be
much uglier. As she has been a good deal scratched and destroyed
in the lapse of ages, C  n observed that he was astonished they
had not tried to restore her a httle. To this the padre rephed, that
the attempt had been made by several artists, each one of whom
had sickened and died. He also mentioned as one of her miracles,
that living on a solitary mountain she had never been robbed ; but I
fear the good padre is somewhat oblivious, as this sacrilege has hap
pened more than once. On one occasion, a crowd of leperos being
collected, and the image carried round to be kissed, one of them,
affecting intense devotion, bit off the large pearl that adorned her
dress in front, and before the theft Avas discovered, he had mingled
with the crowd and escaped. When reminded of the circumstance,
the padre said it was true, but that the thief was a Frenchman.
After taking leave of the Virgin, we visited the padre in his own
old house, attached to the church, where his only attendant, as usual
among padres, is an old woman.
We then made our way on foot down a steep hill, stopping to
admire some noble stone arches, the remains of an aqueduct built
by the Spaniards for conveying water from one mountain to the
other; and Avith an Indian for our guide, visited a newly-disco
vered, though anciently-opened mine, said to be of silver, and which
had until lately been covered with rubbish. We groped through it,
and found vaults and excavations and a deep pit of water. C  n
got some Indians to break off pieces of stone for him, which were
put into a sack and sent home for examination. We were so tired

MEXICO IN MAY. 121
of our walk down this steep and mountainous path, that on our re
turn, I mounted a horse with a man's saddle belonging to one of the
servants, and contrived to keep on, while it climbed up the perpen
dicular ascent. As this seemed rather a selfish proceeding while the
others walked, I invited the Sefiora  to mount also in front;
which she did, and the path being almost perpendicular, my head
nearly touched the ground, which certainly made the seat not over
safe or easy. However, we reached the top of the mountain in
safety, though somewhat exhausted with laughing, and were driven
home with the speed of a rail-car.

LETTER THE SIXTEENTH.

Mexico in May— Leave Mexico for Santiago— Coach of Charles X. — Mexi
can Travelling — General Aspect of the Country — Village of Santa Clara —
Robbers' House — Temples of the Sun and Moon — San Juan — Mexican Po
sada — School-house — Skulls— Hard Fare — Travelling-dress — Sopayuca — Mili
tary Administrador — Santiago — Matadors and Picadors— Evenings in the
Country— Dances — Mexican Songs — Cempoala — Plaza de Toros — Skill of
the Horsemen — Omatusco — Accident — Tulansingo — Beautiful Garden —
Mexican Dishes — Fruits — Horses — Games of Forfeits — Ranchera's Dress —
Young Girls and their Admirers — Verses — Knowledge of simple Medicine —
Indian Baths — Hidden Treasures — Anecdote. Santiago, May 6th.
Before the setting in of the rainy season, we accepted of the
invitation of our friends the  's, to visit their different haciendas,
as in a short time the roads Avih become nearly impassable. The
country in May is perhaps at its highest beauty, or even a httle
earher, as already the great blow of roses is nearly over; au reste
there are roses ah the year round, though more in December than
in July. And this, by the way, is rather a source of disappointment
to the unwary traveller. He arrives in December, and finds the
gardens full of flowers. " If this be the case in December," says he
to himself, what wih it be in May?" May comes — the roses are over,
and the chief flowers in the gardens are dahhas and marigolds, our
autumnal flowers — September, and these autumnal flowers, stih
bloom, and with them you have mignonette and roses, and then
pinks and jasmine, and other flowers. In fact there seems to be no
particular season for any thing.
The weather at present is neither warm nor cold, but colder here
than in Mexico, and when it does not rain it is lovely. Already
there has been much rain, and the torrents are so swehed, that there
was some doubt as to whether our carriages could pass them.

122 GENERAL ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY.
Yesterday, at five in the morning we left Mexico, in a coach
once the property of Charles X. " Sic transit," &c; and a most
luxurious travelling-carriage is that of his ex-majesty, entirely co
vered with ghding, save where the hhes of France surmount the
crown (sad emblems of the fahen dynasty !), lined with white satin
with violet-coloured binding, the satin cushions most excellently
stuffed : large, commodious, and with a movement as soft as that of
a gondola. A Frenchman bought it on a speculation, and brought it here for
sale. In former days, from its gilded and showy appearance, it
would have brought any price; but the taste for gaudy equipages
has gone by since the introduction of foreign, and especially of
Enghsh carriages; and the present proprietor, who bought it for its
intrinsic good quahties, paid but a moderate sum for it. In this
carriage, drawn by six strong horses, with two first-rate coachmen
and several outriders weh armed, we went along at great speed.
The drivers, dressed Mexican fashion, with ah their accoutrements
smart and new, looked very picturesque. Jackets and trousers of
deerskin, the jackets embroidered in green, with hanging silver
buttons, the trousers also embroidered and sht up the side of the
leg, trimmed with silver buttons, and showing an under pair of
unbleached linen : these, with the postilions' boots, and great hats
with gold rolls, form a dress which would faire fureur, if some ad
venturous Mexican would venture to display it on the streets of
London. We left the city by the gate of Guadalupe, and passed by the
great cathedral, our road lying over the marshy plains once covered
by the waters of Lake Tezcuco.
To the east lay the great Lake, its broad waters shining like a
sheet of molten silver, and the 'two great volcanoes : the rising sun
forming a crown of rays on the white brow of Popocatapetl.
To describe once for ah the general aspect of the country on this
side of the vahey of Mexico : suffice it to say, that there is a universal
ah of dreariness, vastness, and desolation. The country is flat, but
always enhvened by the surrounding mountains, hke an uninterest
ing painting in a diamond frame ; and yet it is not whohy uninte
resting. It has a character pecuhar to itself, great plains of maguey,
with its huts with uncultivated patches, that have once been gardens,
stih filled with flowers and choked with weeds; the huts themselves,
generahy of mud, yet not unfrequently of sohd stone, roofless and
windowless, with traces of having been fine buildings in former
days; the complete sohtude, unbroken except by the passing Indian,
certainly as much in a state of savage nature as the lower class of
Mexicans were when Cortes first traversed these plains — with the same
character, gentle and cowardly, false and cunning, as weak animals are
apt to be by nature, and indolent and improvident as men are in a
fine climate; ruins everywhere — here a viceroy's country palace,
serving as a tavern, where the mules stop to rest, and the drivers
to drink pulque — there, a whole village crumbling to pieces; roof-

ROBBERS' HOUSE. 123
less houses, broken down walls and arches, an old church — the
remains of a convent. . . . For leagues, scarcely a tree to be seen;
then a clump of the graceful Arbol de Peru, or one great cypress-
long strings of mules and asses, with their drivers — -pasture-fields
with cattle — then again whole tracts of maguey, as far as the eye
can reach ; no roads worthy of the name, but a passage made between
fields of maguey, bordered by crumbling-down low stone wahs,
causing a jolting from which not even the easy movement of
Charles X.'s coach can save us. But the horses go at full gallop,
accustomed to go through and over every tiling.
The first village we saAv was Santa Clara, to our left, lying at the
foot of some dark hihs, with its white church and fiat-roofed or no-
roofed houses. There being no shade, frequently not a tree for
leagues, the sun and dust were disagreeable, and became more so
as the day advanced. Here it came to pass, that, travelling rapidly
over these hot and dusty plains, the wheels of our carriage began to
smoke. No house was in sight — no water within ken. It was a
case of difficulty; when suddenly  recohected that not far from
thence was an old rancho, a deserted farmhouse, at present occupied
by robbers; and having ordered the coachman to drive to within a
few hundred yards of this house, he sent a servant on horseback with
a medio (fourpence) to bring some water, which was treating the
robbers hke honourable men. The man galloped off, and shortly
returned with a can full of water, which he carried back when the
fire was extinguished.
Meanwhile we examined, as weh as we could, the external
appearance of the robbers' domicile, which was an old hah-ruined
house, standing alone on the plain, with no tree near it. Several
men, with guns, were walking up and down before the house —
sporting-looking characters, but rather dirty — apparently either
waiting for some expected game, or going in search of it. Women,
with rebosos, were carrying water, and walking amongst them.
There were also a number of dogs. The well-armed men who accom
panied us, and the name of  , so weh known in these parts,
that once when his carriage was surrounded by robbers, he merely
mentioned who he was, and they retreated with many apologies for
their mistake, precluded ah danger of an attack; but woe to the
sohtary horseman or unescorted carriage that may pass thereby!
Nor, indeed, are they always in the same mood; for Sefior  's
houses have been frequently attacked in his absence, and bis hacienda
at Santiago once stood a regular siege, the robbers being at length
repulsed by the bravery of his servants.
We set off again au grand galop, drivers and outriders giving,
from time to time, the most extraordinary shrieks to encourage the
horses and to amuse themselves, wild and shrill enough to frighten
any civihzed quadruped. The road grew more picturesque as we
advanced, and at length our attention was arrested by the sight of
the two great pyramids, which rise to the east of the town of San

124 SAN JUAN.
Juan Teotihuacan, which are mentioned by Humboldt, and have
excited the curiosity and attention of every succeeding traveller.
These huge masses were consecrated to the sun and moon, which,
in the time of Cortes, were there represented by two vast stone idols,
covered with gold. The conquerors made use of the gold, and broke
the idols in pieces, by order of the first bishop of Mexico. Unfor
tunately, our time was too limited to give them more than a passing
observation. Fragments of obsidian, in the form of knives and of
arrows, with which the priests opened the breasts of theh human
victims, are stih to be found there ; and numerous smah idols, made
of baked clay, are to be seen both there and in the plains adjoining.
The Indians rather dishke to guide travellers to these pyramids, and
their reluctance to do so has increased the popular behef of the ex
istence of great concealed treasures near or in them.
The whole plain on which these great pyramids stand was formerly
called Micoatl, or the Pathway of the Dead; and the hundreds of
smaller pyramids which surround the larger ones (the Temples of the
Sun and Moon) are symetricahy disposed in wide streets, forming a
great burial-plain, composed perhaps of the dust of their ancient war
riors, an Aztec or Toltec Pere-la-Chaise, or rather a roofless West
minster Abbey. So few of the ancient teocallis now remain, and
these being nearly the only traces now existing of that extraordinary
race, we regretted the more not being able to devote some time to
their examination. Fanaticism and pohcy induced the Spanish con
querors to destroy these heathen temples ; and when we recohect
that at the time of the Reformation in civihzed England the most
splendid Cathohc edifices were made level with the ground, in com
pliance with the ferocious edict of John Knox, " Ding down the
nests, and the rooks wih fly off," we can have httle wonder or blame
to bestow upon Cortes, who, in the excitement of a siege, gave
orders for the destruction of these blood-stained sanctuaries. In the
afternoon we arrived at San Juan, a pretty village, boasting of an
inn, a school-house, an avenue of fine trees, and a stream of clear
water. It is true that the inn is a Mexican posada, bearing as much
resemblance to what is generahy called an inn, as an hacienda does
to an Enghsh country-house ; the school-house, a room with a mud
floor and a few dirty benches, occupied by httle ragged boys and
girls ; but the avenue is pretty, the grass as green as emeralds, and
the water crystal. We walked out while they changed horses, of
which Sefior  had fresh relays of his own prepared ah along
the road; and entered the school-house, attracted by the noise and
the invitingly open door. The master was a poor, ragged, pale, care
worn looking young man, seemingly hah:dinned with the noise, but
very earnest in his work. The children, ah speaking at once, were
learning to speh out of some old bihs of Congress. Several moral
sentences were written on the wall in very independent orthography.
C  n having remarked to the master that they were ill-spelt, he
seemed very much astonished, and even inclined to doubt the fact.

SOPAYUCA. 125
I thought it was one of those cases where ignorance is bhss, and fear
the observation may have cost the young man a night's rest.
A row of grinning skulls was ranged round the wall of the church
yard, and the sexton, who gave us admittance to the church, taking
up one to show it off, it all crumbled into dust, which fihed the air
hke a cloud.
At the posada they gave us rancid sheep's milk, cheese, and biscuits
so hard, that C  n asked the host if they were made in the same
year with the church ; at which he seemed mightily pleased, and
could not stop laughing till we got into the carriage.
Soon after leaving San Juan we were met by the Sefiora de  ,
in an open carriage, coming with her children to meet us ; and
though she had travelled since sunrise from her hacienda, she ap
peared as if freshly dressed for an evening party ; her dress, amber-
coloured crape, trimmed with white blonde, short sleeves and decoltee;
a set of beautiful Neapohtan strawberry-coral, set in gold, straw-
coloured satin shoes, and a little China crape shawl, embroidered in
bright flowers ; her hair dressed and uncovered.
We stopped at their hacienda of Sopayuca, an old house, standing
sohtarily in the midst of great fields of maguey. It has a smah
deserted garden adjoining, amongst whose tangled bushes a pretty
little tame deer was playing, with its half-startled look and full wild
eye. We found an excellent breakfast prepared, and here, for the
first time, I conceived the possibihty of not disliking pulque. We
visited the large buildings where it is kept, and found it rather
refreshing, with a sweet taste and a creamy froth upon it, and with a
much less decided odour than that which is sold in Mexico.
This hacienda is under the charge of an administrador, to whom
 pays a large annual sum, and whose place is by no means a
sinecure, as he hves in perpetual danger from robbers. He is cap
tain of a troop of soldiers, and as his life has been spent in " perse
cuting robbers," he is an object of intense hatred to that free and
independent body, and has some thoughts of removing to another
part of the country, where he may be more tranquil. He gave us a
terrible account of these night attacks, of the ineffectual protection
afforded him by the government, and of the nearly insuperable
difficulties thrown in the way of any attempt to bring these men to
justice. He lately told the president that he had some thoughts of
joining the robbers himself, as they were the only persons in the
Republic protected by the government. The president, however,
is not to blame in this matter. He has used every endeavour to
check these abuses ; and difficulties have been thrown in his way
from very unexpected sources. . . .
A propos to which, the  consul told us the other day, that
some time ago, having occasion to consult Judge  upon an
affair of importance, he was shown into an apartment where that
functionary was engaged with some suspicious-looking individuals,
or rather who were above suspicion, their appearance plainly indi-

126 MEXICAN DANCERS.
eating their calling. On the table before him lay a number of
guns, swords, pistols, and ah sorts of arms. The Judge requested
Monsieur de  to be seated, observing that he was investigating
a case of robbery committed by these persons. The robbers were
seated, smoking very much at theh ease, and the Judge was enjoy
ing the same innocent recreation ; when his cigar becoming extin
guished, one of these gentlemen taking his from his mouth, handed
it to the magistrate, who rehghted his puro (cigar) at it, and re
turned it with a polite bow. In short, they were completely hand
in glove.In the evening we reached Santiago, where we now are, about
eighteen leagues from Mexico, a large house in a wild-looking
country, standing in solitary state, with hills behind, and rocks be
fore it, and surrounded by great uncultivated plains and pasture-
fields. Every thing is en grande in this domain. There is a hand
some chapel and sacristy ; a plaza de toros ; hundreds of horses and
mules ; and between dependientes and hangers-on, we sat down,
thirty or forty people, to dinner.
7th. — The very day of our arrival, Bernardo the Matador, with
his men, arrived from Mexico, bringing theh superb dresses with
them, for the purpose of giving us a country bull-fight. As an
hacienda of this kind is an immense empty house, without furniture
or books, ah the amusement is to be found either out of doors, or in
large parties in the house ; and the unostentatious hospitality which
exists in this and some other of the old families, is a pleasing rem
nant of Spanish manners and habits, now falling into disuse, and
succeeded by more pretension to refinement, and less of either real
wealth or sociabihty.
In the evening here, ah assemble in a large hah ; the Sefiora de
 playing the piano ; while the whole party, agents, dependi
entes, major-domo, coachmen, matadors, picadors, and women-
servants, assemble, and perform the dances of the country ; jarabes,
aforrados, enanos, palomos, zapateros, &c. &c. It must not be sup
posed that in this apparent mingling of ranks between masters and
servants, there is the shghtest want of respect on the part of the
latter ; on the contrary, they seem to exert themselves, as in duty
bound, for the amusement of their master and his guests. There is
nothing republican in it ; no feehng of equahty ; as far as I have
seen, that feeling does not exist here, except between people of the
same rank. It is more like some remains of the feudal system,
where the retainers sat at the same table with their chief, but below
the salt. The dances are monotonous, with smah steps and a great
deal of shuffling, but the music is rather pretty, and some of the
dancers were very graceful and agile ; and if it were not invidious
to make distinctions, we might particularize Bernardo the Matador,
the head coachman, and a handsome peasant-girl, with a short
scarlet and yellow petticoat, and a foot and ankle a la Vestris.
They were ah very quiet, but seemed in a state of intense enjoy-

ORIGINAL SONGS. 127
ment; and some of the men accompanied the dancers on the
guitar. First the player strikes up in quick time, and the dancer per
forms a quick movement ; then the musician accompanies the music
with his voice, and the dancer goes through some slow steps. Such
is the case in the Aforrado or Lining, a curious nom de tendresse,
expressive, I suppose, of something soft and well wadded. The
words are as foUow ; 1.
Aforrado de mi vida !
Como estas, como te va ?
Como has pasado la noche,
No has tenido novedad ?
2.
Aforrado de mi vida !
Yo te quisiera cantar,
Pero mis ojos son tiernos,
Y empazaran a llorar.
3.
De Guadalajara vengo,
Lideando con un soldado,
Solo por venir a ver
A mi jarabe aforrado.
4.
Y vente con migo,
Y yo te dare
Zapatos de raso
Color de cafe.
Of these poetical sublimities, a translation at once hteral and
metrical, would, we think, damp the spirit of a Coleridge.

Lining of my life !
How are you ? how do you do ?
How have you passed the night ?
Have you met with nothing new ?
2.
Lining of my life !
To you I should like to sing ;
But that my eyes are weak,
And tears might begin to spring.
3. •
From Guadalajara fighting,
With a soldier I came on,
My well-lined sweet syrup !
I came to see you alone.

128 COUNTRY BULL-FIGHTS.
4.
And come then with me,
And I will give thee
Such fine shoes of satin,
The colour of tea.
It is coffee, but you wih excuse the poetical hcence. The music
married to this " immortal verse," I have learned by ear, and shah
send you. In the " enanos" (the dwarfs) the dancer makes himself
little, every time the chorus is sung. 1.
Ah ! que bonitos
Son los enanos,
Los chiquititos
Y Mejicanos. 2.
Sale la linda,
Sale la fea,
Sale el enano,
Con su zalea.
3.
Los enanitos
Se enojaron,
Porque a las enanas
Les pellizcaron.
There are many more verses, but I think you wih find these quite
satisfactory. " Ah ! how pretty are the dwarfs, the httle ones, the
Mexicans ! Out comes the pretty one, out comes the ugly one, out
comes the dwarf, with his jacket of skin. The httle he-dwarfs were
angry, because some one pinched the she-dwarfs." There is another
cahed the Toro, of which the words are not very interesting ; and
the Zapate.ro, or shoemaker, was very weh danced by a gentleman
who accompanied himself, at the same time, on the guitar.
Yesterday morning, we set off in a burning sun, over a perfect
Egyptian desert, to visit the famous arches of Oempoala, a magnifi
cent work, which we are told had greatly excited the admiration of
Mr. Poinsett when in this country. This aqueduct, the object of
whose construction was to supply these arid plains with water, was
the work of a Spanish Franciscan friar, and has never been entirely
concluded. We travehed about six leagues, and sat there for
hours, looking up at the great stone arches, which seem hke a work
of giants.
In the afternoon, we all rode to the Plaza de Toros. The evening
was cool, and our horses good, the road pretty and shady, and the
plaza itself a most picturesque enclosure, surrounded by lofty trees.
Chairs were placed for us on a raised platform ; and the bright
green of the trees, the flashing dresses of the toreadors, the roaring

THE LASO. 129
of the fierce bulls, the spirited horses, the music and the cries ;
the Indians shouting from the trees up which they had chmbed ; ah
formed a scene of savage grandeur, which for a short time at least
is interesting. Bernardo was dressed in blue satin and gold ; the
picadors in black and silver ; the others in maroon-coloured satin
and gold. ; all those on foot wear knee-breeches and white silk stock
ings, a httle black cap with ribbons, and a plait of hair streaming
down behind. The horses were generahy good, and as each new
adversary appeared, seemed to participate in the enthusiasm of their
riders. One bull after another was driven in roaring, and as here
they are generally fierce, and their horns not blunted as in Mexico,
it is a much more dangerous affair. The bulls were not killed, but
were sufficiently tormented. One stuck full of arrows and fire
works, all adorned with ribbons and coloured paper, made a sud
den spring over an immensely high wall, and dashed into the woods.
I thought afterwards of this unfortunate animal, how it must have
been wandering about ah night, bellowing Avith pain, the con
cealed arrows piercing its flesh, and looking hke gay ornaments ;
" So, when the watchful shepherd, from the blind,
Wounds with a random shaft the careless hind,
Distracted with her pain, she flies the woods,
Bounds o'er the lawn, and seeks the silent floods —
With fruitless care ; for still the fatal dart
Sticks in her side, and rankles in her heart."
If the arrows had stuck too deep, and that the bull could not rub
them off against the trees, he must have bled to death. Had he
remained, his fate would have been better, for when the animal is
entirely exhausted they throw him down with a laso, and pulling
out the arrows, put ointment on the wounds.
The skill of the men is surprising ; but the most curious part of
the exhibition was when a coachman of  's, a strong, handsome
Mexican, mounted on the back of a fierce bull, which plunged and
flung himself about as if possessed by a legion of demons, and forced
the animal to gahop round and round the arena. The bull is first
caught by the laso, and thrown on his side, strugghng furiously.
The man mounts while he is stih on the ground. At the same mo
ment the laso is withdrawn, and the buh starts up, maddened by
feehng the weight of his unusual burden. The rider must dis
mount in the same way, the bull being first thrown down, otherwise
he would be gored in a moment. It is terribly dangerous, for
if the man were to lose his seat, his death is nearly certain ;
but these Mexicans are superb riders. A monk, who is attached
to the establishment, seems an ardent admirer of these sports, and
his presence is useful, in case of a dangerous accident occurring,
which is not unfrequent.
The amusement was suddenly interrupted by sudden darkness,
and a tremendous storm of rain and thunder, in the midst of which
we mounted our horses, and gahoped home.
K

130 PLAINS OF APAN. TuXANSINGO  , 8th.
Another buh-fight last evening ! It is hke pulque; one makes wry
faces at it at first, and then begins to like it. One thing we soon dis
covered; which was, that the bulls, if so inclined, could leap upon
our platform, as they occasionahy sprang over a wall twice as high.
There was a part of the spectacle rather too horrible. The horse
of one of the picadors was gored, his side torn up by the buh's
horns, and in tlfis state, streaming with blood, he was forced to
gallop round the circle.
We spent one day in visiting Omatusco, an_ hacienda belong
ing to the Sefiora T  a, situated in the plains of Apan, and
famous for the superior excehence of its pulque. The organas,
the nopal, and great fields of maguey, constitute the chief vegeta
tion for many miles round. The hacienda itself, a fine large build
ing, stands lonely and bleak in the midst of magueys. A fine
chapel, left unfinished since her husband's death, attracted our
attention by its simple architecture and unpretending elegance.
It is nearly impossible to conceive any thing more lonely than a
residence here must be ; or in fact in any of the haciendas situated
on these great plains of Otumba and Apan.
This morning we set off for Tulansingo, in four carriages-and-six,
containing . the whole family, ourselves, maids, and children, padre
and nursery governess ; relays being placed ah along the road,
which we traversed at full gallop. But in crossing some great
pasture-fields, the drivers of two of the carriages began to race ;
one of the horses feh and threw the postihon ; the carriage itself
was overturned, and though none of the inmates were injured, the
poor mozo was terribly wounded in his head and legs. No assist
ance being near, he changed places with one of the men on horse
back, and was brought on slowly.
About three in the afternoon, we arrived at Tulansingo, rather
an important city in its way, and which has been the theatre of
many revolutionary events ; with various streets and shops, a hand
some church ; alcaldes, a prefect, &c. There appear to be some
few good houses and decent families, and clean, smah shops, and
there are pretty, shady walks in the environs ; and though there
are also plenty of miserable dwellings and dirty people, it is alto--
gether rather a civihzed place. The house of  , which stands
within a courtyard, and is the house par excellence, is very hand
some, with httle furniture, but with some remnants of luxury.
The dining-hall is a noble room, with beautiful Chinese paper,
opening into a garden, which is the boast of the repubhc, and is
indeed singularly pretty, and kept in beautiful order, with gravel
walks and fine trees, clear tanks and sparkhng fountains, and an
extraordinary profusion of the most beautiful flowers, roses espe
cially. There is something extremely oriental in its appearance,
and the fountains are ornamented Avith China vases and Chinese
figures of great value. Walking along under arches formed by

FRUITS. 131
rose-bushes, a smah column of water spouted forth from each bush,
sprmkling us all over with its shower. But the prettiest thing in
the garden is a great tank of clear water, enclosed on three sides by
a Chinese building, round which runs a piazza with stone pillars,
shaded by a drapery of white curtains. Comfortable weh-cushioned
sofas are arranged along the piazza, which opens into a large room,
where one may dress after bathing. It is the prettiest and coolest
retreat possible, and entirely surrounded by trees and roses. Here
one may he at noonday, with the sun and the world completely
shut out. They call this an English garden, than which it rather
resembles the summer retreat of a sultan.
When we arrived, we found dinner laid for forty persons, and
the table ornamented, by the taste of the gardener, with pyramids
of beautiful flowers.
I have now formed acquaintance with many Mexican dishes ;
mole (meat stewed in red chile), boiled nopal, fried bananas, green
chile, &c. Then we invariably have frijoles (brown beans stewed),
hot tortillas — and this being in the country, pulque is the universal
beverage. In Mexico, tortillas and pulque are considered unfa;
shionable, though both are stih to be met with occasionahy, in some
of the best old houses. They have here a most delicious species
of cream cheese, made by the Indians, and ate with Arirgin honey.
I beheve there is an intermixture of goats' milk in it ; but the
Indian famihes who make it, and who have been offered large sums
for the receipt, find it more profitable to keep their secret.
Every dinner has puchero immediately fohowing the soup ; con
sisting of boiled mutton, beef, bacon, fowls, garbanzos (a white
bean), smah gourds, potatoes, boiled pears, greens, and any other
vegetables ; a piece of each put on your plate at the same time, and
accompanied by a sauce of herbs or tomatoes.
As for fruits, we have mameys, chirimoyas, granaditas, white
and black zapotes ; the black, sweet, with a green skin and black
pulp, and with black stones in it ; the white resembhng it in out
ward appearance and form, but with a white pulp, and the kernel,
which is said to be poisonous, is very large, round, and white. It
belongs to a larger and more leafy tree than the black zapote, and
grows in cold or temperate climates ; whereas the other is a native
of tierra caliente. Then there is the chicozapote, of the same
family, with a whitish skin, and a white or rose-tinged pulp; this
also belongs to the warm regions. The capuhn, or Mexican
cherry ; the mango, of which the best come from Orizaba and Cor
dova ; the cayote, &c. Of these I prefer the chirimoya, zapote
bianco, granadita, and mango ; but this is a matter of taste.
12th. — We have spent some days here very _ pleasantly ; riding
amongst the hills in the neighbourhood, exploring caves, viewing
waterfalls, and chmbing on foot or on horseback, wherever foot or
horse could penetrate. No habits to be worn in these parts, as I
found from experience, after being caught upon a gigantic maguey,
K 2

132 YOUNG GIRLS.
and my gown torn in two. It is certainly always the wisest plan
to adopt the customs of the country one hves in. A dress either of
stuff, such as merino, or of muslin, as short as it is usually worn, a
reboso tied over one shoulder, and a large straw hat, is about the
most convenient costume that can be adopted. The horses are
smah, but strong, spirited, and well-made ; generally unshod, which
they say makes the motion more agreeable ; and almost ah, at
least all ladies' horses, are taught the paso, which I find tiresome for
a continuance, though a good paso-horse wih keep up with others
that gahop, and for a longer time.
The great amusement here in the evening is playing at juegos de
prendas, games with forfeits, which I recommend to all who wish to
make a rapid improvement in the Spanish tongue. Last night,
being desired to name a forfeit for the padre, I condemned him to
dance the jarabe, of which he performed a few steps in his long
gown and girdle, with equal awkwardness and goodnature. We
met to-day the prettiest httle ranchera, a farmer's wife or daughter,
riding in front of a mozo on the same horse, their usual mode, dressed
in a short embroidered mushn petticoat, white satin shoes, a pearl
necklace, and earrings, a reboso, and a large round straw hat. The
ladies sit their horse on a contrary side to our fashion. They have
generally adopted Enghsh saddles, but the farmers' Avives frequently
sit in a sort of chair, which they find much more commodious.
Some country ladies, who attended mass in the chapel this
morning, were dressed in very short clear white mushn gowns, very
much starched, and so disposed as to show two under-petticoats, also
stiffly starched, and trimmed with lace ; their shoes coloured satin.
Considered as a costume of their own, I begin to think it rather
pretty. The oldest women here or in Mexico never wear caps;
nothing but their own gray hair, sometimes cut short, sometimes
turned up with a comb, and not unusually tied behind in a pigtail.
There is no attempt to conceal the ravages of time. . . .
It appears to me, that amongst the young girls here there is
not that desire to enter upon the cares of matrimony, which
is to be observed in many other countries. The opprobrious
epithet of " old maid" is unknown. A girl is not the less admired
because she has been ten or a dozen years in society; the most
severe remark made on her is that she is " hard to please." No one
calls her passee, or looks out for a new face to admire. I have seen
no courting of the young men either in mothers or daughters; no
match-making mammas, or daughters looking out for their own in
terests. In fact, young people have so few opportunities of being
together, that Mexican marriages must be made in heaven, for I
see no opportunity of bringing them about upon earth ! The young
men when they do meet with young ladies in society, appear devoted
to and very much afraid of them. I know but one lady in Mexico
who has the reputation of having manoeuvred ah her daughters into
great marriages; but she is so clever, and her daughters were such

PHARMACY. 133
beauties, that it can have cost her no trouble. As for flirtation, the
name is unknown, and the thing.
I have been taking lessons in the Indian dances from Doiia
R  a; they are not ungraceful, but lazy and monotonous. . . .
On every door in this house there is a printed paper to the fol
lowing effect: " Quien a, esta casa da luz? Jesus.
Quien la llena de alegria? Maria.
Y quien la abraza en la fe ? Jose.
Luego bien claro se ve
Que siempre habra contricion,
Teniendo en la corazon,
A Jesus, Maria, y Jose."
" Who gives hght to this house? Jesus.
Who fills it with joy? Mary.
Who kindles faith in it? Joseph.
Then we see very clearly
That there will always be contrition,
Keeping in our hearts,
Jesus, Mary, and Joseph."
These are written in verse, and below: " The most ihustnous
Bishop of Monte-Rey, Don Fray Jose de Jesus Maria Balaunzaran,
hereby ordains and grants, along with the Bishops of Puebla, Du-
rango, Valladolid and Guadalajara, two hundred days of indulgence
to all those who devoutly repeat the above ejaculation, and invoke
the sweet names of Jesus, Mary, and Joseph." . . . The people here
have certainly a poetical vein in their composition. Every thing is
put into verse — sometimes doggerel, hke the above (in which luz
rhyming with Jesus shows that the z is pronounced here hke an s),
occasionally a little better, but always in rhyme.
We went this evening to visit the Countess del  , who has a
house in the village. Found her in bed, feverish, and making use
of simple remedies, such as herbs, the knowledge and use of which
have descended from the ancient Indians to the present lords of the
soil. The Spanish historians who have written upon the conquest
of Mexico, ah mention the knowledge which the Mexican physi
cians had of herbs. It was supposed by these last, that for every
infirmity there was a remedy in the herbs of the field; and to apply
them according to the nature of the malady, was the chief science of
these primitive professors of medicine. Much which is now used
in European pharmacy is due to the research pf Mexican doctors;
such as sarsapariha, jalap, friars' rhubarb, mechoacan, &c; also
various emetics, antidotes to poison, remedies against fever, and an
infinite number of plants, minerals, gums, and simple medicines.
As for their infusions, decoctions, ointments, plasters, oils, &c.,
Cortes himself mentions the wonderful number of these which he

134 B DRIED TREASURE.
saw in the Mexican market for sale. From certain trees they
distihed balsams ; and drew a balsamic hquid both from a decoction
of the branches, and from the bark steeped in water. Bleeding and
bathing were their other favourite remedies. The country-people
breathed a vein with a maguey-point, and when they could not find
leeches, substituted the prickles of the American hedgehog.
Besides bathing in the rivers, lakes, tanks, and fountains, they
used a bath which is still to be seen in many Indian villages, and
which they cah the temezcalh. It is made of unbaked bricks; its
form is that of a baker's oven, about eight feet wide and six
high ; the pavement rather convex, and lower than the surface
of the soil. A person can enter this bath only on his knees. Op
posite the entry is a stone or brick stove, its opening towards the
exterior of the bath, with a hole to let out the smoke. Before the
bath is prepared, the floor inside is covered with a mat, on which
is placed a jar of water, some herbs and leaves of corn. The stove
is then heated until the stones which unite it with the bath become
red-hot. When the bather enters the entry is closed, and the only
opening left is a hole at the top of the vault, which, when the smoke
•of the oven has passed through, is also shut. They then pour water
upon the red-hot stones, from which a thick vapour arises, which
fills the temezcalh. The bather then throws himself on the mat,
and drawing down the steam with the herbs and maize, wets them
in the tepid water of the jar, and if he has any pain, apphes them to
the part affected. This having produced perspiration, the door is
opened and the well-baked patient comes out and dresses. For
fevers, for bad colds, for the bite of a poisonous animal, this is said
to be a certain cure; also for acute rheumatism.
For the cure of wounds, the Spaniards found the Mexican re
medies most efficacious. Cortes himself was cured by one of their
doctors of a severe wound in the head, received at Oturnba, through
which we lately passed. For fractures, for humours, for every thing
they had their remedy; sometimes pulverizing the seeds of plants,
and attributing much of their efficacy to the superstitious ceremonies
and prayers which they used while applying them, especiahy those
which they offered up to Tzapotlatenan, the goddess of medicine.
A great deal of tlfis knowledge is still preserved amongst their
descendants, and considered efficacious. For every illness there is an
herb, for every accident a remedy. Baths are in constant use, al
though these temezcallis are confined to the Indians. In every
family there is some knowledge of simple medicine, very necessary
in haciendas especiahy, where no physician can possibly be pro
cured. There is a hill upon  's property, said to contain much buried
* treasure. There are many traditions here of this concealed Indian
wealth, but very httle gold has been actuahy recovered from these
mountain-tombs. Buried gold has occasionally come to hght; not

ANECDOTE. v 135
by researches in the mountains, for few are rash enough to throw
away their money in search of what would probably prove an
imaginary treasure; but by accident — in the ruins of old houses,
where the^ proprietors had deposited it for safety in some perio d
of revolution; perhaps no later than at the time of the Spanish
expulsion. Some years ago, an old and very poor woman rented a house in
the environs of Mexico, as old and wretched as herself, for four reals
a week. It had an old broken-up stone patio (inner courtyard),
which she used occasionally to sweep with a httle old broom. One
day she observed two or three stones in this patio larger and more
carefully put together than the others," and the little old woman,
being a daughter of Eve by some collateral branch, poked down
and worked at the stones until she was able to raise them up —
when lo and behold, she discovered a can full of treasure; no less
than five thousand dollars in gold ! Her dehght and her fright were
unbounded; and, being a prudent old lady, she determined, in the
first place, to leave the house, and next to bring in her treasure,
poquito a poquito (httle by httle), to a room in Mexico, keeping the
old house as a sort of bank. She did so ; took a nice room, and
instead of sleeping on a petate (mat), as she had hitherto done,
bought herself a httle bedstead, and even a mattress ; treated herself
not only to chocolate, but to a few bottles of good wine ! Such ex
traordinary luxury could not fail to excite suspicion. She was
questioned by her neighbours, and at length intrusted her secret to
their keeping. History says, that notwithstanding this, she was
not robbed, and was allowed to enjoy her good fortune in peace.
It is difficult to credit such a miracle in this land of picking and
steahng, but my authority is beyond impeachment.
. . . Whilst I write on these irrelevant matters, I am warned
that the coaches are at the door, and that we are about setting off
for Tepenacasco, another hacienda of Sefior  's, a few leagues
from this.

136

LETTER THE SEVENTEENTH.
Arrival at Tepenacasco — Lake with Wild-duck — Ruined Hacienda — Sunset on
the Plains — Troop of Asses — liide by Moonlight — Leave Tepenacasco — San
Miguel — Description — Thunderstorm — Guasco — Journey to Real del Monte-
—English Road— Scenery — Village of Real — Count de Regla — Director's
House — English Breakfast — Visit to tlie Mines— The Cascade — The Storm —
Loneliness — A Journey in Storm and Darkness — Return to Tepenacasco —
Journey to Sopayuca — Narrow Escape — Famous Bull — Return to Mexico.
Tepenacasco.
This is a fine wild scene. The house stands entirely alone ; not
a tree near it. Great mountains rise behind it, and in every other
direction, as far as the eye can reach, are vast plains, over which the
wind comes whistling fresh and free, with nothing to impede its
triumphant progress. In front of the house is a clear sheet of water,
a great deep square basin for collecting the rain. These jagueys, as
they are called, are very common in Mexico, Avhere there are few
rivers, and where the use of machines for raising water is by no
means general as yet. There is no garden here, but there are a few
shrubs and flowers in the inner courtyard. The house inside is
handsome, with a chapel and a patio, which is occasionally used as
a plaza de toros. The rooms are weh fitted up, and the bedroom
walls are covered with a pretty French paper, representing scenes of
Swiss rural life. There are great outhouses, stables for the mules
and horses, and stone barns for the wheat and barley, which, toge
ther with pulque, form the produce of this hacienda.
We took a long ride this morning to visit a fine lake where there
are plenty of wild-duck and turtle. The gentlemen took their guns
and had tolerable sport. The lake is very deep, so that boats have
sailed on it, and several miles in circumference, with a rivulet flow
ing from it. Yet with all this water the surrounding land, not more
than twenty feet higher, is dry and sterile, and the lake is turned to
no account, either from want of means, or of hydraulic knowledge.
However , C  n having made some observation on this subject,
the proprietor of the lake and of a ruined house standing near,
which is the very picture of loneliness and desolation, remarked in
reply ; that from this estate to Mexico, the distance is thirty-six
leagues; that a load of wheat costs one real a league, and moreover
the alcaba, the duty which has to be paid at the gates of Mexico, so
that it would bring no profit if sent there; while in the surrounding
district there is not sufficient population to consume the produce;
so that these unnecessary and burdensome taxes, the thinness of the

SAN MIGUEL. 137
population, and the want of proper means of transport, impede the
prosperity of the people, and check the progress of agriculture. . .
1 had a beautiful horse, but half-broke, and which took fright and
ran off with me. I got great credit for keeping my seat so well, Avhich
I must confess was more through good fortune than skill. The day
was delightful, the air exhilarating, and the blue sky perfectly cloud
less as we galloped over the plains ; but at length the wind rose so
high that we dismounted, and. got into the carriage. We sat by the
shores of the lake, and walked along its pebbly margin, watching
the wild-duck as they skimmed over its glassy surface, and returned
home in a magnificent sunset; the glorious god himself a blood -red
globe, surrounded by blazing clouds of gold and crimson.
In the evening a troop of asses were driven across the plain, and
led round to the back of the house ; and we were all called out in
haste, and each desired to choose one of the long-eared fraternity for
our particular use. Some had saddles, and some had none, but we
mounted to the number of thirty persons, followed by a cavalcade
of httle ragged boys armed with sticks and whips. My ass was an
obstinate brute, whom I had mistakenly chosen for his sleek coat
and open countenance ; but by dint of being lashed up, he suddenly
set off at full gallop, and distanced all the others. Such screaming
and laughing and confusion ! and so much difficulty in keeping the
party together ! It was nearly dark when we set off; but the moon
rose, her silver disk fighting up the hills and the plains ; the wind
feh, and the night was calm and dehghtful. We rode about six
miles to a pretty little chapel with a cross, that gleamed amongst
the trees in the moonhght, by the side of a running stream. Here
we dismounted, and sat by the brink of the little sparkhng rivulet,
while the deep shadows came stealing over the mountains, and all
around was still, and cool, and silent; ah but the merry laughter of
our noisy cavalcade. We returned about eleven o'clock, few acci
dents having occurred. Dona R  a had fallen once. Dona
M  had crushed her foot against her neighbour's ass. The
padre was shaken to a jelly, and a learned senator, who was of the
party, declared he should never recover from that night's jolting.
To-morrow we shah set off for Real del Monte.
17th. — After mass in the chapel we left Tepenacasco about seven
o'clock, and travelled (I beheve by a short cut) over rocks and walls,
torrents and fields of maguey, all in a heavy carriage with six horses.
Arriving in sight of walls, the mozos gallop on and tear them down.
Over the mountain-torrents or barrancas, they dash boldly, encourag
ing the horses by the wildest shrieks.
We stopped, at San Miguel, a country-house belonging to the
Count de Regla, the former proprietor of the mines which we Avere
about to visit; the most picturesque and lovely place imaginable,
but entirely abandoned ; the house comfortless and out of repair.
We wandered through paths cut in the beautiful woods, and by the
: side of a rivulet that seems to fertihze every thing through which it

138 ENGLISH ROAD.
winds. We chmbed the hills, and made our way through the
tangled luxuriance of trees and flowers; and in the midst of hun
dreds of gaudy blossoms, I neglected them ah upon coming to a
grassy slope covered with daisies and buttercups. We even found
some hawthorn-bushes. It might be Enghsh scenery, were it not
that there is a richness in the vegetation unknown in England. But
ah these beautiful sohtudes are abandoned to the deer that wander
fearlessly amongst the woods, and the birds that sing in their
branches. While we were stih far from the house, a thunderstorm
came on. When it rains here, the windows of heaven seem opened,
and the clouds pour down water in floods; the lightning also ap
pears to me peculiarly vivid, and many more accidents occur from
it here than in the north. We were drenched in five minutes, and in
this phght resumed our seats in the carriage, and set off for Guasco
(a village where we were to pass the night) in the midst of the
pelting storm. In an hour or two the horses were wading up to
their knees in water, and we arrived at the pretty Adhage of Guasco
in a most comfortless condition. There are no inns in these paTts,
but we were hospitably received by a widow-lady, a friend of
 's.
The Sefiora de  , in clear mushn and lace, with satin shoes,
was worse off than I in mousseline-de-laine and brodequins; never
theless, I mean to adopt the fashion of the country to-morrow, when
we are to rise at four to go on to Real del Monte ; and try the effect
of travelling with clear gown, satin petticoat, and shoes ditto ; be
cause, " when one is in Rome," &c. The storm continues with such
unabated vdolence, that we must content ourselves with contemplat
ing the watery landscape from the windows.

Tepenacasco.
Rose in Guasco at four o'clock; dressed by candle-light, took
chocolate, and set off for Real del Monte. After we had travelled a
few leagues, tolerably cold, we rejoiced when the sun rose, and dis
pelling the mist, threw his cheerful hght over mountain and wood.
The trees looked green and refreshed after their last night's bath;
the very rocks were sparkling with silver. The morning was per
fectly brihiant, and every leaf and flower was glittering with the
rain-drops not yet dried. The carriage ascended slowly the road cut
through the mountains by the Enghsh company ; a fine and useful
enterprise; the first broad and smooth road I have seen as yet in the
repubhc. Until it was made, hundreds of mules daily conveyed
the ore from the mines over a dangerous mountain-path, to the
hacienda of Regla, a distance of six or seven leagues. We overtook
waggons conveying timber to the mines of Real, nine thousand feet
above the level of the sea.
The scenery was magnificent. On one side mountains covered
with oak and pine, and carpeted by the brightest-coloured flowers;

MINES. 139
goats chmbing up the perpendicular rocks, and looking down upon
us from their vantage-ground; fresh clear rivulets, flinging them
selves from rock to rock, and here and there httle Indian huts
perched amongst the cliffs; on the other, the deep vahey with its
bending forests and gushing river; while far above, we caught a
glimpse of Real itself, with its sloping roofs and large church,
standing in the very midst of forests and mountains. We began to
see people with fair hair and blue eyes ; and one individual, with a
shock of fiery red hair and an undeniable Scotch twang, I felt the
greatest inclination to claim as a countryman. The Indians here
looked cleaner than those in or near Mexico, and were not more
than hah naked. The whole country here, as well as the mines,
formerly belonged to the Count de Regla, who was so wealthy, that
when his son, the present count, was christened, the whole party
walked from his house to the church, upon ingots of silver. The
Countess having quarrelled with the Vice-Queen, sent her, in token
of reconcihation, a white satin slipper, entirely covered with large
diamonds. The Count invited the King of Spain to visit his
Mexican territories, assuring him that the hoofs of his Majesty's
horse should touch nothing but sohd silver from Vera Cruz to the
capital. This might be a bravado ; but a more certain proof of his
wealth exists in the fact, that he caused two ships of the line, of the
largest size, to be constructed in Havana at his expense, made of
mahogany and cedar, and presented them to the King. _ The present
Count was, as I aheady told you, married to the beautiful daughter
of the Giiera Rodriguez.
We arrived at Real del Monte about nine o'clock, and drove to
the director's house, which is extremely pretty, commanding a most
beautiful and extensive view, and where we found a large fire burn
ing in the grate — very agreeable, as the morning was stih somewhat
chill, and which had a look of home and comfort that made it stih
more acceptable. We were received with the greatest cordiality by
the director, Mr. Rule, and his lady, and invited to partake of the
most dehcious breakfast that I have seen for a long while; a happy
melange of Enghsh and Mexican. The snow-white table-cloth,
smoking tea-urn, hot rolls, fresh eggs, coffee, tea, and toast looked
very much a. TAnglaise, while there were numbers of substantial
dishes a, VEspagnole, and dehcious fresh cream-cheeses, to ah which
our party did ample justice.
After breakfast, we went out to visit the mines, and_ it Avas
curious to see Enghsh children, clean and pretty, with their white
hair and rosy cheeks, and neat straw bonnets, mingled with the
httle copper-coloured Indians. We visited ah the different works;
the apparatus for sawing, the turning-lathe, foundery, _&c. ; but I
regretted to find that we could not descend into the mines. We
went to the mouth of the shaft called the Dolores, which has a
narrow opening, and is entered by perpendicular ladders, lne
men go down with conical caps on their heads, in which is stuck a

140 MINING COMPANIES.
hghted tahow candle. In the great shaft, cahed Terreros, they
descend, by means of these ladders, to the depth of a thousand feet,
there being platforms at certain distances, on which they can rest.
We were obliged to content ourselves with seeing them go doAvn,
and with viewing and admiring all the great works which Enghsh
energy has established here ; the various steam-engines, the buildings
for the separation and washing of the ore ; the great stores, work
shops, offices, &c. Nearly all the workmen are British, and of these
the Scotch are preferred. Most of the miners are Indians, who
work in companies, and receive in payment the eighth part of the
proceeds. The director gave us some specimens of silver from the
great heaps where they he, sparkling like genii's treasure.
Although I have not descended into these mines, I might give
you a description of them by what I have heard, and fill my paper
with arithmetical figures, by which you might judge of the former
and the present produce. I might tell you hoAv Don Lucas Alaman
went to England, and raised, as if by magic, the enthusiasm of the
English; how one fortune after another has been swallowed up in
the dark, deep guff of speculation; how expectations have been dis
appointed ; and how the great cause of this is the scarcity of quick
silver, which has been paid at the rate of one hundred and fifty
dohars per quintal in real cash, when the same quantity was given at
credit by the Spanish government for fifty dollars ; hoAv heaps of
silver he abandoned, because the expense of acquiring quicksilver
renders it whohy unprofitable to extract it ; and I might repeat the
opinion of those persons by whom I have heard the subject dis
cussed, who express their astonishment that, such being the case, an
arrangement is not made with the country which is the almost ex
clusive possessor of the quicksilver-mines, by which it might be pro
cured at a lower rate, and this great source of wealth not thrown
away. But for all these matters I refer you to Humboldt and Ward,
by whom they are scientifically treated, and wih not trouble you
with superficial remarks on so important a subject. In fact, I must
confess that my attention was frequently attracted from the mines,
and the engines, and the works of man, and the discussions arising
therefrom, to the stupendous natural scenery by which we were
surrounded; the unexplored forests that clothe the mountains to
their very summits, the torrents that leaped and sparkled in the sun
shine, the deep ravines, the many-tinted fohage, the bold and jutting
rocks. All combine to increase our admiration of the bounties of
nature to this favoured land, to which she has given " every herb
bearing seed, and every tree that is pleasant to the sight and good
for food," while her veins are rich with precious metals; the useful
and the beautiful offered with unsparing hand.
We were obhged to leave Real about two o'clock, having a long
journey to perform before night, as we had the intention of return
ing to sleep at Tepenacasco. We took leave of our hospitable en
tertainers, and again resumed our journey over these fine roads,

THUNDERSTORM. 141
many parts of which are blasted from the great rocks of porphyry;
and as we looked back at the picturesque colony ghstening in the
sun, could hardly believe the prophecies of our more experienced
drivers, that a storm was brewing in the sky, which would burst
forth before evening. We were determined not to believe it, as it
was impossible to pass by the famous hacienda and ravine of Regla
without paying them at least a short visit.
This stupendous work of the Mexican miners in former days, is
some leagues to the south of Real del Monte, and is said to have
cost many milhons of dollars. One should view it as we did, in a
thunderstorm, for it has an air of vastness and desolation, and at the
same time of grandeur, that shows well amidst a war of the elements.
Down in a ¦ steep barranca, encircled by basaltic cliffs, it hes ; a
mighty pile of building, Avhich seems as if it might have been con
structed by some philosophical giant or necromancer; — so that one
is not prepared to find there an English director and his wife, and
the unpoetic comforts of roast mutton and potatoes !
All is on a gigantic scale : the immense vaulted storehouses for
the silver ore; the great smelting-furnaces and covered buildings
where we saw the process of amalgamation going on; the water-
wheels ; in short, all the necessary machinery for the smelting and
amalgamation of the metal. We walked to see the great cascade,
with its rows of basaltic columns, and found a seat on a piece of
broken pihar beside the rushing river, where we had a fine view of
the lofty cliff s, covered with the wildest and most luxuriant vegeta
tion: vines traihng themselves over every broken shaft; moss
creeping over the huge disjointed masses of rock; and trees over
hanging the precipitous ravine. The columns look as if they might
have been the Avork of those A\rho, on the plains of Shinar, began to
build the city, and the tower whose top was to reach to heaven.
But, as we sat here, the sky suddenly became overcast; great black
masses of cloud collected over our heads, and the rumbling of thun
der in the distance gave notice of an approaching storm. We had
scarcely time to get under shelter of the director's roof, when the
thunder began to echo loudly amongst the rocks, and was speedily
followed by torrents of rain. It was a superb storm : the hghtning
flashed amongst the trees, the wind howled furiously, while
" Far along
From peak to peak, the rattling crags among
Leapt the live thunder."
After resting and dining amidst a running accompaniment of
plashing rain, roaring wind, and deep-toned thunder, we found
that it was in vain to wait for a favourable change in the wea
ther; and certainly, with less experienced drivers, it would have
been any tiring but safe to have set off amidst the darkness of
the storm, down precipitous descents and over torrents swelled
by the rain. The Count de Regla, who, attracted by the plentiful
supply of water in this ravine, conceived the idea of employing part
of his enormous fortune in the construction of these colossal works,

142 MOUNTAIN-TORRENTS.
must have had an imagination on a large scale. The English direc
tors, whose wives bury themselves in such abysses, ought to feel
more grateful to them than any other husbands towards their sacri
ficing better halves. For the men, occupied ah day amongst their
workmen and machinery, and returning late in the evening to dine
and sleep, there is no great self-immolation; but a poor woman,
living ah alone, in a house fenced in by gigantic rocks, with no
other sound in her ears from morning tih night but the roar of
thunder or the clang of machinery, had need, for her personal comfort,
to have either a most romantic imagination, so that she may console
herseh with feeling hke an enchanted princess in a giant's castle, or
a most commonplace spirit, so that she may darn stockings to the
sound of the waterfall, and feel no other inconvenience from the
storm, but that her husband wih require dry linen when he comes
home. As for us, we were drenched before reaching the carriage, into
which the water was pouring, and when we set off once more amidst
the rapidly-increasing darkness, and over these precipitous roads, we
thought that our chance of reaching the proposed haven that night
was very smah. After much toil to the horses, we got out of the
raAanes and found ourselves once more on the great plains, where
the tired animals ploughed their way over fields and ditches and
great stones, and among trees and tangled bushes; an occasional flash
of hghtning our only guide. Great was our joy, when, about eleven
o'clock, a man riding on in advance shouted out that the lights of
Tepenacasco were in sight; and stih more complete our satisfaction
when we drove round the tank into the courtyard of the hacienda.
We were received with great applause by the inmates, and were not
sorry to rest after a very fatiguing yet agreeable day. Mexico, 21st.
We left Tepenacasco the day before yesterday. Our journey was
very dangerous, in consequence of the great rains, which had
swehed the torrents; especially as we set off late, and most of it was
performed by night. In these barrancas, carriages and horsemen
have been frequently swept away and dashed in pieces over the pre
cipices. But to make our situation more disagreeable, we had
scarcely set off, before a terrible storm of thunder and rain again
came on with more violence than the night preceding. It grew
perfectly dark,_and we listened with some alarm to the roaring tor
rents, over which, especiahy over one, not many leagues from So-
payuca, where we were to spend the night, it was extremely doubt
ful whether we could pass. The carriage was fuh of water, but we
were_ too much alarmed to be uneasy about trifles. Amidst the
howling of the wind and the pealing of thunder, [no one could
hear the other speak. Suddenly, by a vivid flash of hghtning, the
dreaded barranca appeared in sight for a moment, and almost before
the drivers could stop them, the horses had plunged in.
It was a moment of mortal fear such as I shah never forget. The

" EL CHATO. 143
shrieks of the drivers to encourage the horses, the loud cries of Ave
Maria ! the uncertainty as to whether our heavy carriage could "be
dragged across, the horses strugghng and splashing in the boihng
torrent, and the horrible fate that awaited us should one of them
fall or falter ! . . . . The Sefiora  and I shut our eyes
and held each other's hands, and certainly no one breathed till we
were safe on the other side. We were then told that we had
crossed within a few feet of a precipice over which a coach had been
dashed into fifty pieces during one of these swells, and of course
every one kihed ; and that if instead of horses we had travelled with
mules, we must have been lost. You may imagine that we were
not sorry to reach Sopayuca; where the people ran out to the door
at the sound of carriage-wheels, and could not beheve that we had
passed the barranca that night ; as two or three horsemen who had
rode in that direction had turned back, and pronounced it impass
able. Lights and supper were soon procured, and by way of interlude
a monstrous bull, of great fame in these parts, was led up to the
supper-table for our inspection with a rope through his nose; a fierce
brute, but familiarly called " el chato" (the flatnose), from the short
ness of his horns. The hghtning continued very vivid, and they
told us that a woman had been struck there some time before, while
in the chapel by night.
We rose at four o'clock the next morning and set off for Mexico
The morning, as usual after these storms, was peculiarly fresh and
beautiful; but the sun soon grew oppressive on the great plains.
About two o'clock we entered Mexico by the Guadalupe gate. We
found our house in statu quo, — agreeable letters from Europe, — great
preparations making for the English bah, to assist at which we have
returned sooner than we otherwise should, and for which mjfemme-
de-chambre has just completed a dress for me, very much to her own
satisfaction.

LETTER THE EIGHTEENTH.
English Ball — Dresses— Diamonds — Mineria — Arrival of the Pope's Bull —
Consecration of the Archbishop— Foreign Ministers — Splendour of the Ca
thedral — Description of the Ceremony. 25th.
The Enghsh bah at the Mineria has passed off with great eclat.
Nothing could be more splendid than the general effect of this

144 ENGLISH BALL.
noble building, brilhantly illuminated and filled with a well-dressed
crowd. The president and corps diplomatique were in full uniform,
and the display of diamonds was extraordinary. We ladies of the
corps diplomatique tried to flatter ourselves that we made up_ in
elegance what we wanted in magnificence ! for in jewels no foreign
ladies could attempt to compete with those of the country. The
daughter of Countess  , just arrived from Paris, and whose
acquaintance I made for the first time, wore pale blue, with garlands
of pale pink roses, and a parure of most superb brilliants. The
Sefiora de A  's head reminded me of that of the Marchioness of
Londonderry, in her opera-box. The Marquesa de Vivanco had a
riviere of brilliants of extraordinary size and beauty, and perfectly
well set. Madame S  r wore a very rich blonde dress, garnie
with plumes of ostrich feathers, a large diamond fastening each
plume. One lady wore a diadem which  said could not be
worth less than a hundred thousand dollars. Diamonds are always
worn plain or with pearls; coloured stones are considered trash,
which is a pity, as I think rubies and emeralds set in diamonds
would give more variety and splendour to their jewels. There were
a profusion of large pearls, generally of a pear shape. The finest
and roundest were those worn by the Sefiora B  a. There were
many blonde dresses, a great fashion here. I know no lady without
one. Amongst the prettiest and most tastefully-dressed girls, were
the E  ^s, as usual. Many dresses were overloaded, a common
fault in Mexico ; and many of the dresses, though rich, were old-
fashioned; but the coup d'ceil was not the less brilfiant, and it was
somewhat astonishing, in such a multitude, not to see a single
objectionable person. To be sure the company were all invited.
On entering the noble court, which was brilhantly illuminated
with coloured lamps, hung from pillar to pillar, and passing up the
great staircase, we were met at the first landing by Mr. P  , in
full uniform, and other Enghsh gentlemen, the directors of the bah,
who stood there to receive the ladies. His Excellency led me up
stairs to the top of the ball-room, where chairs were placed for the
president, ladies of the diplomatics, cabinet ministers, &c. The music
was excellent, and dancing was already in full force. And though
there were assembled what is called all Mexico, the rooms are so
large, that the crowdwas not disagreeable, nor the heat oppressive.
Pictures of Queen Victoria were hung in the different large halls.
The supper-tables were very handsome; and in fact the bah alto
gether was worthy of its object; for Messieurs les Anglais always do
these things well Avhen they attempt them.
The president took me to supper. The company walked in to
the music of " God save the Queen." After Ave had sat a httle while,
the president demanded silence, and, in a short speech, proposed the
health of Her Majesty, Queen Victoria, which was drank by ah the
company standing. After supper, we continued dancing till nearly

PONTIFICAL VESTMENTS. 145
six in the morning ; and when we got into the carriage it was broad
daylight, and all the bells were ringing for mass !
This is the best ball we have seen here, without any exception ;
and is said to have cost eleven thousand dollars. There were cer
tainly a great number of pretty faces at this fete, many pretty girls
whom Ave had not seen before, and whom the English secretaries
had contrived to unearth. Fine eyes are a mere drug — every one
has them ; large, dark, fuh orbs, with long silken lashes. As for
diamonds, no man above the rank of a lepero marries in this
country -without presenting his bride Avith at least a pair of diamond
earrings, or a pearl necklace with a diamond clasp. ' They are not
always a proof of wealth, though they constitute it in themselves.
Their owners may be very poor in other respects. They are consi
dered a necessary of life ; quite as much so as shoes and stockings.
June 2d. — On the 15th of April, the pontifical bulls arrived from
Rome, confirming the election of the Sefior Posada to the Archi-
episcopal dignity ; and on Sunday last, the 31st of May, the conse
cration took place in the Cathedral with the greatest pomp. The
presiding Bishop was the Seiior Belaunzaran, the old Bishop of
Linares ; the two assistant Bishops were the Sefior Madrid, a young,
good-looking man, who having been banished from Mexico during
the .revolution, took refuge in Rome, where he obtained the favour
of the Pope, who afterwards recommended him to an episcopal see
in Mexico ; and the Doctor Morales, formerly Bishop of Sonora. His
padrino was the President, General Bustamante, who in his capacity
presented his godson with the splendid pastoral ring, a solitary
diamond of immense size. All the diplomatic body and the cabinet
went in full uniform ; chairs being placed for them on each side of
the crugia (the passage leading to the altar). A dispute upon the
subject of precedence arose between an excellency of the diplomatic
corps, and the secretary of state, which seems likely to have disagree
able consequences. I had the pleasure of kneehng beside these
illustrious persons for the space of three or four hours, for no seats
were .placed for the wives either of the diplomates or of the
cabinet. But the ceremony, though long, was very superb, the music fine,
the quantity of jewels on the dresses of the bishops and priests, and
on the holy vessels, &c, enormous. The bishops were arrayed in
white velvet and gold, and their mitres were literally covered with
diamonds. The gold candlesticks and golden basins for holy water,
and golden incensories, reminded me of the description of the orna
ments of the JeAvish tabernacle in the days of Moses ; of the
" candlesticks of pure gold, Avith golden branches ;" and " the
tongs and snuff-dishes of, pure gold :" or of the temple of Solomon,
where the altar was of gold, and the table of gold, and the candle
sticks, and the snuffers, and the basins, and the spoons, and the
censors were of pure gold. The pontifical vestments, destined for
the elected primate, were ah prepared ; — sandals, amice, surplice,
L

146 BENEDICTION.
girdle, pectoral cross, stole, goAvn, vestment, with open sleeves (the
dalmatica), crosier, mitre, pontifical ring, &c. Magnificent chairs
were prepared for the bishops, near the altar, and the president in
uniform took his place amongst them. The presiding Bishop took
his seat alone, with his back to the altar, and the Seiior Posada was
led in by the assisting bishops, they with theh mitres, he with his
priest's cap on. Arrived before the presiding Bishop, he uncovered
his head, and made a profound obeisance. These three then took
theh places on chahs placed in front ; and the ceremony having
begun, in case you should wish to have some idea of it, I shah en
deavour to give it you, for I was so situated, that although the
cathedral was crowded to excess, I could see and hear ah that
passed. Let me premise, however, that there was not one lepero,
as they are always excluded on such occasions.
Posada and his assistant bishops rose, and uncovered their heads ;
and the Bishop Morales turning to the presiding Bishop, said,
" Most reverend father, the holy Cathohc Mother Church requests
you to raise this Presbyter to the charge of the archbishopric."
" Have you an apostohcal mandate?"
" We have."
" Read it."
An assistant priest then read the mandate in a loud voice ; upon
which they ah sat down, the consecrator saying, " Thanks be to
God !" Then Posada kneeling before him, took an oath upon the
Bible, which the Bishop held, concluding with these words — " So
may God help me, and these his holy gospels." Then all sitting
down, and resuming theh mitres, the examination of the future
Archbishop took place. It was very long, and at its conclusion,
Posada knelt before the presiding Bishop and kissed his hand. To
this succeeded the confession, every one standing uncovered before
the altar, which was then sprinkled with incense. Then followed
the mass, chanted.
The assistant bishops then led out the Sefior Posada to the chapel,
where they put on his sandals, and where he assumed the pectoral
cross, amice, surplice, &c. ; and arriving at the altar read the office
of the mass. He was then conducted again before the consecrating
Bishop, who was seated with his mitre, and after saluting him reve
rently, he sat down. _ Then the Bishop, addressing him said : " It
is the duty of the Bishop to judge, interpret, consecrate, ordain,
offer, baptize and confirm."
All then rose, and the Bishop prayed that the newly-elected
primate might receive the grace of heaven. Ah the bishops and
priests then prostrated themselves while the Litanies were sung.
The presiding Bishop, rising, took the crosier, and prayed three
times for a blessing on the Chosen One; thrice making on him the
sign of _ the cross ; and they continued to sing the Litanies ; at the
conclusion of which they ah arose, took their seats and resumed
theh mitres, Posada alone kneeling before the Bishop.

COMMUNION. 147
The Bible was then placed upon his shoulders, while he remained
prostrated, and the Bishop rising up, pronounced a solemn benedic
tion upon him, while the hymn of " Veni Creator Spiritus," was
sung in full chorus. Then the Bishop, dipping his hand in tha
holy chrism, anointed the primate's head, making on it the sign of the
cross,_saying, " Let thy head be anointed and consecrated with the
celestial benediction, according to the pontifical mandate." The
Bishop then anointed his hands, making in the same manner the
sign of the cross, and saying, " May these hands be anointed with
holy oil; and as Samuel anointed David a king and a prophet, so
be thou anointed and consecrated." This was followed by a solemn
prayer. Then the crosier was blessed, and presented to the elected Arch
bishop with these words. " Receive the pastoral crosier, that thou
mayest be humanely severe in correcting vices, exercising judgment
without wrath, &c." The blessing of the ring followed with solemn
prayer, and being sprinkled with holy water, it was placed on the
third finger of the right hand, the Bishop saying, " Receive the
ring, which is a sign of faith ; that, adorned with incorruptible
faith, thou mayest guard inviolably the spouse of God, his Holy
Church." The Bible being then taken off the shoulders of the prostrate
prelate, was presented to him with an injunction to receive and
to preach the gospel. Finahy, the Bishop bestowed on him the kiss
of peace ; and ah the other bishops did so in their turn. Posada
then retired, and his head and hands being washed, he soon after re
turned with the assistant bishops, carrying two hghted wax tapers,
which he presented to the presiding Bishop, together with two
loaves and two small barrels of wine, reverently kissing his hand.
After this, the presiding Bishop washed his hands and mounted the
steps of the altar, and the new primate received the sacrament.
The mitre was then,, blessed and placed upon his head, with a
prayer by the Bishop, that thus, with his head armed and with the staff
of the gospels, he might appear terrible to the adversaries of the True
Faith. The gloves were next consecrated and drawn on his hands,
the Bishop praying that his hands might be surrounded by the
purity of the new man ; and that as Jacob, when he covered his
hands with goat-skins, offered agreeable meats to his father, and re
ceived his paternal benediction, so he, in offering the Holy Sacra
ment, might obtain the benediction of his Heavenly Father. The
Archbishop was then seated by the consecrating Bishop on his pon
tifical throne, and at the same moment, the hymn " Te Deum lauda-
mus" was gjianted. During the hymn, the bishops, with their
jewehed mitres, rose, and passing through the church, blessed the
whole congregation, the new Archbishop still remaining near the
altar, and without his mitre. When he returned to his seat, the
assistant bishops, including the consecrator, remained standing tih
the hymn was concluded. l2

148 SERVANTS.
The presiding Bishop then advancing, without his mitre, to the
right hand of the Archbishop, said, " May thy hand be strengthened !
May thy right hand be exalted ! May justice and judgment be the
preparation of thy See !" Then the organ pealed forth, and they
chanted the hymn of " Gloria Patri." Long and solemn prayer fol
lowed; and then, ah uncovered, stood beside the gospels, at the altar.
The Archbishop rose, and with mitre and crosier, pronounced a
solemn blessing on ah the people assembled. Then, while ah knelt
beside the altar, he said — "For many years." This he repeated
thrice ; the second time, in the middle of the altar, the third at the
feet of the presiding Bishop. Then ah rising, the Archbishop be
stowed on each the kiss of peace, and the ceremony concluded.
When every thing was over, our carriage not being visible amongst
the crowd of vehicles, I returned home in that of the  Minister,
with him and his Attaches; after which, they and C  n returned
to dine with the new Archbishop in his palace. A dish of sweet
meats was sent me from his table, which are so pretty, (probably the
chef d'ceuvre of the Nuns,) that I send them to you, to preserve as a
memorial of the consecration of the first Mexican Archbishop —
perhaps of the last !

LETTER THE NINETEENTH.

Eatt=„gssrvS:s"""'-' w-s"-N»» <* *« £»« t"~-
„ June 3d.
Hith!!3?^ t°-iei1 7™ h°W * find the M™* servants.
of t Th. I* i aVOldfeltlle fateful theme, from very weariness
o it The badness of the servants, is an unfailing so vice of com
plaint even amongst Mexicans; much more so amongst folders,
especially on their first arrival. We hear of thei? adSon to
S^t^' ^enness, dirtiness, with I hosTofX
vices, inat these complaints are freauentlv ir.cn- +i,„„ i
(;lr,1iV,+ Tw +!,„ -i -Vi -uequentiy just, there can be no
doubt but the evil might be remedied to a great extent In the
first place servants are constantly taken without being requhed 'to
bring a recommendation from theh last place ; and in Ve S ^
commendations are constantly given, whether from indolence or nfis-

JOSEFITA. 149
taken kindness, to servants who do not deserve them. A servant
who has hved in a dozen different houses, staying about a month in
each, is not thought the worse of on that account. As the love of
finery is inherent in them all, even more so than in other daughters
of Eve, a girl will go to service merely to earn sufficient to buy
herself an embroidered chemise ; and if, in addition to this, she can
pick up a pair of small old satin shoes, she wih tell you she is tired
of working, and going home to rest, " para descansar." So httle is
necessary, when one can contentedly hve on tortillas and chile, sleep
on a mat, and dress in rags !
A decent old woman, who came to the house to wash shortly after
cur arrival in this country, left us at the end of the month, " para
descansar." Soon after, she used to come with her six children,
they and herself all in rags, and beg the gardener to give her any
«dds and ends of vegetables he could spare. My maid asked her,
why, being so poor, she had left a good place, where she got twelve
dollars a month. "Jesus!" said she, " if you only knew the plea
sure of doing nothing !"
I wished to bring up a httle girl as a servant, having her taught
to read, sew, &c. A child of twelve years old, one of a large family,
who subsisted upon charity, was procured for me ; and I promised
her mother that she should be taught to read, taken regularly to
church, and instructed in all kinds of work. She was rather pretty,
and very intelligent, though extremely indolent ; and though she
had no stockings, would consent to wear nothing but dirty white
satin shoes, too short for her foot. Once a week, her mother, a
tah, slatternly woman, with long tangled hair, and a cigar in her
mouth, used to come to visit her, accompanied by a friend, a friend's
friend, and a train of girls, her daughters. The housekeeper would
give them some dinner, after which they would all light their cigars,
and, together with the httle Josefita, sit, and hoAvl, and bemoan
themselves, crying and lamenting her sad fate in being obhged to go
out to service. After these visits, Josefita was fit for nothing. If
desired to sew, she would sit looking so miserable, and doing so little,
that it seemed better to ahow her to leave her work alone. Then,
tolerably contented, she would sit on a mat, doing nothing, her
hands folded, and her eyes fixed on vacancy.
According to promise, I took her several times to see her mother,
but one day being occupied, I sent her alone in the carriage, with
charge to the servants to bring her safely back. In the evening she
returned, accompanied by her whole family, all crying and howling;
" For the love of the Most Holy Virgin, Sefiora mia ! Por la puris-
sima conception !" &c. &c. &c. I asked what had happened, and
after much difficulty discovered that their horror was occasioned by
my having sent her alone in the carriage. It happened that the
Countess S  was in the drawing-room, and to her I related the
cause of the uproar. To my astonishment, she assured me that the
woman Avas in this instance right, and that it was very dangerous to

150 RESULTS OF GAMBLING.
send a ghl of twelve years old from one street to another, in the
power of the coachman and footman. Finding from sucb good
authority that this was the case, I begged the woman to be contented
with seeing her daughter once a month, when, if she could not come
herseh, I should send her under proper protection. She agreed ; but
one day having given Josefita permission to spend the night at her
mother's, I received next morning a very dirty note, nearly illegible,
which, after calling down the protection of the Virgin upon me,
concluded—" but with much sorrow I must take my child from the
most illustrious protection of your Excellency, for she needs to rest
herseh, (es preciso que descanse,) and is tired for the present of work
ing." The woman then returned to beg, which she considered
infinitely less degrading.
Against this nearly universal indolence and indifference to earning
money, the heads of families have to contend; as also against thiev
ing and dirtiness; yet I think the remedy much easier than ft appears.
If on the one hand, no one were to receive a servant into their house,
without respectable references, especiahy from their last place, and
if theh having remained one year in the same house were considered
necessary to theh being received into another, unless from some
pecuhar chcumstances ; and if on the other hand it were considered
as unjust and dangerous, as it really is, to recommend a servant who
has been guilty of stealing, as being " muy honrado," very honest,
some improvement might soon take place.
A porter was recommended to us as " muy honrado;" not from
his last place, but from one before it. He was a well-dressed, sad-
looking individual ; and at the same time we took his wife as washer
woman, and his brother as valet to our attache, thus haA-fng the
whole family under our roof, Avisely taking it for granted that he
being recommended as particularly honest, his relations were " all
honourable men." An Enghsh lady happened to cah on me, and
a short time after I went to return her visit; when she informed me
that the person who had opened the door for her was a notorious
thief, whom the police had long been hi search of; that she had
feared sending a servant to warn us of our danger, lest guessing the
purport of her message, he might rob the house before leaving it.
We said nothing to the man that evening, but he looked paler and
more miserable than usual, probably foreseeing what would be tiie
result of Mrs.  's visit. The next morning C  n sent for him
and dismissed him, giAfing him a month's wages, that he might not
be tempted to steal from immediate want. His face grew perfectly
hvid, but he made no remark. In hah an hour he returned and
begged to speak with C  n. He confessed that the crime of
which he concluded he was accused, he had in fact committed; that
he had been tempted to a gambling house, Avhile he had in his
pocket a large sum of money belonging to his master. After losing
his own money, he tried Iris fortune Avith what was not his own; lost
the whole sum, then pawned a ATiluable shawl worth several hundred

THE REBOSOS. 151
dollars, with which also he had been entrusted; and having lost
every thing, in despair made his escape from Mexico. He remained
in concealment for some time, tih hearing that we wanted a porter,
he ventured to present himself to the housekeeper with his former
certificate. He declared himself thoroughly repentant — that this
was his first, and would be his last crime — but who can trust the
good resolutions of a gambler ! We were obhged to send him away,
especiahy as the other servants aheady had some suspicions concern
ing him ; and everything stolen in the house would in future have
been attributed to him. The gentleman who had recommended
him, afterwards confessed that he always had strong suspicions of
this man's honesty, and knew him to be so determined a gambler,
that he had pawned all he possessed, even his wife's clothes, to ob
tain money for that purpose. Now as a porter in Mexico has pretty
much at his disposal the property and even the hves of the whole
family, it is certainly most blameable to recommend to that situation
a man whose honesty is more than doubtful. We afterwards pro
cured two soldiers from the Invalidos, old Spaniards, to act in that
capacity, who had no other foiblesse but that of being constantly
drunk. We at length found two others, who only got tipsy alter
nately, so that we considered ourselves very weh off.
We had a long series of galopinas, kitchen-maids, and the only
one who brought a first-rate character with her, robbed the house
keeper. The money, however, was recovered, and was found to
have been placed by the girl in the hands of a rich and apparently
respectable coach-maker. He refunded it to the rightful owner, and
the galopina was punished by a month's imprisonment, which he
should have shared with her. One of the most disagreeable customs
of the women-servants, is that of wearing their long hah hanging
down at its fuh length, matted, uncombed, and always in the way. I
cannot imagine how the Mexican ladies, who complain of this, per
mit it. Flowing hair sounds very picturesque, but when it is very
dirty, and suspended over the soup, it is not a pretty picture.
The reboso, in itself graceful and convenient, has the disadvantage
of being the greatest cloak for ah untidiness, uncombed hair and
raggedness, that ever was invented. Even in the better classes, it
occasions much indolence in the toilette, but in the common people,
its effect is overwhelming. When the reboso drops off, or is dis
placed by chance, we see what they would be without it ! As for
the sarape, it is both convenient and graceful, especially on horse
back; but though Indian in its origin, the custom of covering the
lower part of the face with it, is taken from the Spanish cloak; and
the opportunity which both sarape and reboso afford for conceahng
large knives about the person, as also for enveloping both face and
figure so as to be scarcely recognisable, is no doubt the cause of the
many murders which take place amongst the lower orders, rn
moments of excitement and drunkenness. If they had not these
knives at hand, their rage would probably cool, or a fair fight would

152 SERVANTS' AArAGES.
finish the matter, and if they could not wear these knives concealed,
I presume they would be prohibited from carrying them.
As for taking a woman-cook in Mexico, one must have strong
nerves and a good appetite to eat what she dresses, however palatable,
after having seen her. One look at her flowing locks, one glance at
her reboso, et c'estfini. And yet the Mexican servants have their
good quahties, and are a thousand times preferable to the foreign
servants one finds in Mexico ; especially to the French. Bringing
them with you is a dangerous experiment. In ten days they begin
to fancy themselves ladies and gentlemen — the men have Don tacked
to their name ; and they either marry and set up shops, or become
unbearably insolent. A tolerable French cook may occasionally be
had, but you must pay his services their weight in gold, and wink at
his extortions and robberies. There are one or two French restau-
rans, who will send you in a very good dinner at an extravagant
price : and it is common in foreign houses, especially amongst the
English, to adopt this plan whenever they give a large enter
tainment. . The Mexican servants have some never-faihng , good quahties.
They are the perfection of civility— humble, obliging, excessively
good-tempered, and very easily attached to those with whom they
hve ; and if that rara avis, a good Mexican housekeeper, can be
found, and that such may be met with I from experience can testify,
then the troubles of the menage rest upon her shoulders, and accus
tomed as she is to the amiable weaknesses of her compatriotes, she is
neither surprised nor disturbed by them.
As for wages, a good porter has from fifteen to twenty dohars per
month ; a coachman from twenty to thirty — many houses keep two
or even three coachmen ; one who drives from the box, one who
rides postihon, and a third for emergencies. Our friend  , who
has many horses, mules, and carriages, has four; and pays forty
dollars per month to his head coachman ; the others in proportion.
A French cook has about thirty dollars — a housekeeper from twelve
to fifteen; a major-domo about twenty or more; a footman six or
seven; galopine and chambermaid five or six; a gardener from
twelve to fifteen. Sewing-girls have about three reals per diem.
Porter, coachman, and gardener, have their wives and families in the
house, which would be an annoyance, were the houses not so large.
The men-servants generally are much cleaner and better dressed
than the women.
One circumstance is remarkable; that, dirty as the women-
servants are, and notwithstanding the enormous size of Mexican
houses and Mexican families, the houses themselves are, generally
speaking, the perfection of cleanhness. This must be due either to
a good housekeeper, which is rarely to be found, or to the care
taken by the mistress of the house herself. That private houses
should have tlus advantage over churches and theatres, only proves
that ladies know hoAv to manage these matters better than gentle-

MOTIVES FOR TAKING THE VEIL. 153
men, so that one is inchned to wish a la Martineau, that the Mexican
pohce were entirely composed of old women.
12th. — I have formed an acquaintance with a very amiable and
agreeable nun in the convent of the Santa Teresa, one of the strictest
orders. I have only seen her twice, through a grating. She is a
handsome woman of good family, and it is said of a remarkably
joyous disposition; fond of music and dancing, and gay society, yet
at the age of eighteen, contrary to the wishes of all her family, she
took the veil, and declares she has never repented of it. Although
I cannot see her, I can hear her voice, and talk to her through a
turning wooden screen, which has a very mysterious effect. She
gives me an account of her occupations and of the little events that
take place in her small world within; whilst I bring her news from
the world without. The common people have the greatest vener
ation for the holy sisterhood, and I generally find there a number of
women with baskets, and men carrying parcels or letters; some
asking their advice or assistance, others executing their commissions,
bringing them vegetables or bread, and listening to the sound of
their voice with the most eager attention. My friend, the Madre
 , has promised to dress a number of wax figures for me, in the
exact costume of all the different nuns in Mexico, beginning with
that of her own convent.
I have now seen three nuns take the veil; and, next to a death,
consider it the saddest event that can occur in this nether sphere;
yet the frequency of these human sacrifices here is not so strange as
might at first appear. A young girl, who knows nothing of the
world, who, as it too frequently happens, has at home neither amuse
ment nor instruction, and no society abroad, who from childhood is
under the dominion of her confessor, and who firmly beheves that
by entering a convent she becomes sure of heaven ; who moreover
finds there a number of companions of her own age, and of older
women who load her with praises and caresses — it is not, after all,
astonishing that she should consent to insure her salvation on such
easy terms.
Add to this the splendour of the ceremony, of which she is the
sole object; the cynosure of all approving eyes. A ghl of sixteen
finds it hard to resist all this. I am told that more girls are smitten
by the ceremony, than by any thing else, and am inchned to beheve
it, from the remarks I have heard made on these occasions by _ young
girls in my vicinity. What does she lose? A husband and children?
Probably she has seen no one who has touched her heart. Most
probably she has hitherto seen no men, or at least conversed with
none but her brothers, her uncles, or her eonfessor. She has perhaps
also felt the troubles of a Mexican menage. The society of men !
She will still see her confessor, and she wih have occasional visits
from reverend padres and right reverend bishops.
Some of these convents are not entirely free froni scandal.
Amongst the monks, there are many who are openly a disgrace to

154 SEVERE JUDGMENTS.
their calling, though I firmly believe that by far the greater number
lead a life of privation and virtue. Their conduct can, to a certain
extent, be judged of by the world; but the pale nuns, devout and
pure, immured in the cloister for life, kneeling before the shrine, or
chanting hymns in the silence of the night, a veil both truly and
ahegoricahy must shade their vhtues or their failings. The nuns of
the Santa Teresa and of other strict orders, who hve sparingly, pro
fess the most severe rides, and have no servants or boarders, enjoy an
universal reputation for Adrtue and sanctity. They consider the
other convents worldly, and their motto is, " Ah or nothing; the
world or the cloister." Each abbess adds a stricter rule, a severer
penance than her predecessor, and in this they glory. My friend
the Madre  frequently says — " Were I to be born again, I
should choose, above every lot in life, to be a nun of the Santa
Teresa, but of no other convent." ....
It is strange how, ah the world over, mankind seems to expect from
those who assume religion as a profession a degree of superhuman
perfection. Their failings are insisted upon. Every eye is upon
them to mark whatsoever may be amiss in their conduct. Their
virtues, theh learning, their holy fives — ^nothing wih avah them, if
one blot can be discovered in theh character. There must be no
moral blemish in the priesthood. In the Cathohc religion, where
more is professed, stih more is demanded, and the errors of one padre
or one ecclesiastic seem to throw a shade over the whole community
to which they belong.

LETTER THE TWENTIETH.

The Convent Entry— Dialogue— A Chair in Church— Arrival of the Nun-
Dress— Jos<> Maria— Crowd— Withdrawal of the Black Curtain— The Tak
ing of the Veil— The Sermon-A Dead Body— Another Victim— Convent of
the Encarnacion— Attempt at a Hymn— Invitation— Morning Visit— The
Nun and her Mother— Banquet— Taking Leave— Ceremony of the Veil-tak
ing— A beautiful Victim— The Last Look— Presentation to the Bishop—
Reflections — Verses. 4th June.
Some days ago, having received a message from my nun that a
ghl was about to take the veil in her convent, I went there about six
o'clock, and knowing that the church on these occasions is apt to be
crowded to suffocation, I proceeded to the reja, and speaking to an

THE CEREMONY. 155
invisible within, requested to know in what part of the church I
could have a place. Hpon which a voice rephed —
" Hermanita (my sister), I am rejoiced to see you. You shah have
a place beside the godmother."
" Many thanks, Hermanita. Which way shah I go?"
Voice. — " You shall go through the sacristy. Jose Maria !"
Jose Maria, a thin, pale, lank individual, with hollow cheeks, who
was standing near hke a page in waiting, sprang forward — " Madre-
cita, I am here !"
_ Voice. — " Jose Maria — That lady is the Sefiora de C  n. You
will conduct her excehency to the front of the grating, and give her
a chair." After I had thanked the voice for her kindness in attending to me
on a day when she was so much occupied with other affairs, the
obsequious Jose Maria led the way, and I followed him through
the sacristy into the church, where there were aheady a few
kneeling figures ; and thence into the rahed-off enclosure destined
for the relatives of the future nun, where I was permitted to sit down
in a comfortable velvet chair. I had been there but a httle while
when the aforesaid Jose' Maria reappeared, picking his steps as if he
were walking upon eggs in a sick room. He brought me a message
from the Madre  that the nun had arrived, and that the madre-
cita wished to know if I should hke to give her an embrace before
the ceremony began. I therefore followed my guide back into the
sacristy, where the future nun was seated beside her godmother, and
in the midst of her friends and relations, about thirty in ah.
She was arrayed in pale blue satin, with diamonds, pearls and a
crown of flowers. She was literally smothered in blonde and j ewels ;
and her face was flushed as weh it might be, for she had passed the
day in taking leave of her friends at a fete they had given her, and
had then, according to custom, been paraded through the town in
ah her finery. And now her last hour was at hand. When I came
in she rose and embraced me with as much cordiality as if we had
known each other for years. Beside her sat the Madrina, also in
white satin and jewels ; ah the relations being likewise decked out in
their finest array. The nun kept laughing every now and then in
the most unnatural and hysterical manner, as I thought, apparently
to impress us with the conviction of her perfect happiness; for it is a
great point of honour amongst girls similarly situated to look as
cheerful and gay as possible; the same feehng, though in a different
degree, which induces the gahant highwayman to jest in the pre
sence of the multitude when the hangman's cord is within an inch of
his neck, the same which makes a gahant general, whose hfe is for
feited, command his men to fire on him ; the same which makes the
Hindoo widow mount the funeral pile without a tear in her eye, or
a sigh on her hps. IT the robber were to be strangled in a corner of
his dungeon; if the general were to be put to death privately in his
own apartment; if the widow were to be burnt quietly on her own

156 THE CEREMONY.
hearth ; if the nun were to be secretly smuggled in at the com'ent
gate hke a bale of contraband goods, — we might hear another tale.
This girl was very young, but by no means pretty; on the contrary,
rather disgraciee par la nature ; and perhaps a knowledge of her own
want of attractions may have caused the world to have few charms
for her.
But Jose Maria cut short my train of reflections, by requesting me
to return to my seat before the crowd arrived, which I did forthwith.
Shortly after, the church-doors Avere thrown open, and a crowd burst
in, every one struggling to obtain the best seat. Musicians entered,
carrying desks and music-books, and placed themselves in two rows,
on either side of the enclosure where I was. Then the organ struck
up its solemn psalmody, and was followed by the gay music of the
band. Rockets were let off outside the church, and, at the same
time, the Madrina and all the relations entered and knelt down in
front of the grating which looks into the convent, but before which
hung a dismal black curtain. I left my chair and knelt down beside
the godmother.
Suddenly the curtain was withdrawn, and the picturesque beauty
of the scene Avithin baffles all description. Beside the altar, which was
in a blaze of hght, was a perfect mass of crimson and gold drapery ; the
wahs, the antique chairs, the table before which the priests sat, ah
hung with the same splendid material. The Bishop wore his superb
mitre and robes of crimson and gold ; the attendant priests also glit
tering in crimson and gold embroidery.
In contrast to these five-and-twenty figures, entirely robed in black
from head to foot, were ranged on each side of the room prostrate,
their faces touching the ground, and in their hands immense hghted
tapers. On the foreground was spread a purple carpet bordered round
with a garland of freshly gathered flowers, roses and carnations and
heliotrope, the only things that looked real and living in the whole
scene ; and in the middle of tlfis knelt the novice, stih arrayed in her
blue satin, white lace veil and jewels, and also with a great hghted
taper in her hand.
The black nuns then rose and sang a hymn, every now and then
falling on their faces and touching the floor Avith their foreheads.
The whole looked hke an incantation, or a scene in Robert le
Diable. The novice was then raised from the groimd and led to the
feet of the Bishop, who examined her as to her vocation, and gave
her his blessing, and once more the black curtain fell between us
and them.
In the second act, she was lying prostrate on the floor, disrobed of
her profane dress, and covered over with a black cloth, while the
black figures kneeling round her chanted a hymn. She was now
dead to the world. The sunbeams had faded away, as if they would
not look upon the scene, . and all the hght was concentrated in one
great mass upon the convent group.
Again she was raised. Ah the blood had rushed into her face, and

THE SERMON. 157
her attempt at a smile was truly painful. She then knelt before the
Bishop and received the benediction, with the sign of the cross, from
a white hand with the pastoral ring. She then went round alone to
embrace all the dark phantoms as they stood'motionless, and as each
dark shadow clasped her in its arms, it seemed hke the dead welcom
ing a new arrival to the shades.
But I forget the sermon, which was dehvered by a fat priest, who
elbowed his way with some difficulty through the crowd to the
grating, panting and in a prodigious heat, and ensconced himself in a
great arm chair close beside us. He assured her that she " had chosen
the good part, which could not be taken away from her;" that she
was now one of the elect, " chosen from amongst the wickedness and
dangers of the world ;" — (picked out hke a plum from a pie). He
mentioned with pity and contempt those who were " yet strugghng
in the great Babylon;" and compared their miserable fate with hers,
the Bride of Christ, who, after suffering a few privations here during
a short term of years, should be received at once into a kingdom of
glory. The whole discourse was well calculated to rally her fainting
spirits, if fainting they were, and to inspire us with a great disgust
for ourselves.
When the sermon was concluded, the music again struck up —
the heroine of the day came forward, and stood before the grating
to take her last look of .this wicked world. Down fell the black
curtain. Up rose the relations, and I accompanied them into the
sacristy. Here they coolly hghted their cigars, and very philoso
phically discoursed upon the exceeding good fortune of the new-
made nun, and on her evident delight and satisfaction with her own
situation. As we did not follow her behind the scenes, I could not
give my opinion on this point. Shortly after, one of the gentlemen
civilly led me to my carriage, and so it was.
As we were returning home, some soldiers rode up and stopped
the carriage, desiring the coachman to take the other side of the
aqueduct, to avoid the body of a man who had just been murdered
within a few doors of our house.
In the Convent of the Incarnation, I saw another girl sacrificed
in a similar manner. She was received there without a dowery, on
account of the exceeding fineness of her voice. She httle thought
what a fatal gift it would prove to her. The most cruel part of ah
was, that wishing to display her fine voice to the pubhc, they made
her sing a hymn alone, on her knees, her arms extended in the form
of a cross, before all the immense crowd ; " Anciha Christi sum,"
" The Bird of Christ I am." She was a good-looking girl, fat and
comely, who would probably have led a comfortable hfe in the
world, for which she seemed well fitted ; most likely without one
touch of romance or enthusiasm in her composition ; but having
the unfortunate honour of being niece to two chanoines, she was
thus honourably provided for Avithout expense in her nineteenth
year. As might be expected, her voice faltered, and instead of sing-

158 A FAMILY PARTY.
ing, she seemed inchned to cry out. Each note came slowly,
heavily, trembhngly ; and at last she nearly feh forward exhausted,
when two of the sisters caught and supported her.
I had almost made up my mind to see no more such scenes, which,
unlike pulque and bull-fights, I dishke more and more upon trial ;
when we received an invitation, which it was not easy to refuse, but
was the more painful to accept, being acquainted, though shghtly,
with the victim. I send you the printed note of invitation.
" On Wednesday, the  of this month, at six o'clock in the
evening, my daughter, Dofia Maria de la Concepcion, P  e  ,
Avih assume the habit of a nun of the choir and the black veil in the
Convent of Our Lady of the Incarnation. I have the honour to
inform you of this, entreating you to co-operate with your presence
in the solemnity of this act, a favour which wih be highly esteemed
by your affectionate servant, who kisses your hand.
"Maria Josef a de  .
" Mexico, June  , 1840."
Having gone out in the carriage to pay some visits, I suddenly
recollected that it was the very morning of the day in which this
young girl was to take the veil, and also that it was necessary to in
quire where I was to be placed ; for as to entering the church vrith
the crowd on one of these occasions, it is out of the question ;
particularly when the girl being, as in the present case, of dis
tinguished family, the ceremony is expected to be pecuharly mag
nificent. I accordingly cahed at the house, was shovm up stahs,
and to my horror, found myself in the midst of a " goodlie
companie," in rich array, consisting of the relations of the family,
to the number of about a hundred persons ; the bishop himself
in his purple robes and amethysts, a number of priests, the fa
ther of the young lady in his general's uniform ; she herself in
purple velvet, with diamonds and pearls, and a crown of flowers ;
the corsage of her gown entirely covered with httle bows of ribbon
of divers colours, which her friends had given her, each adding one,
like stones thrown on a cairn in memory of the departed. She had
also short sleeves and white satin shoes.
Being very handsome, with fine black eyes, good teeth, and fresh
colour, and above ah with the beauty of youth, for she is but
eighteen, she was not disfigured even by this overloaded dress. Her
mother, on the contrary, who was to act the part of Madrina, who
wore a dress fac-simile, and who was pale and sad, her eyes
almost extinguished with weeping, looked hke a picture of
misery in a ball-dress. In the adjoining room, long tables were
laid out, on which servants were placing refreshments for the fete
about to be given on this joyous occasion. I felt somewhat
shocked, and inclined to say Avith Paul Pry, " Hope I don't in
trude." But my apologies were instantly cut short, and I was
welcomed with true Mexican hospitality ; repeatedly thanked for
my kindness in coming to see the nun, and hospitably pressed to
join the family feast. I only got off upon a promise of return-

A LAST LOOK. 159
ing at half-past five to accompany them to the ceremony, which, in
fact, I greatly preferred to going there alone.
I arrived at the hour appointed, and being led up stairs by the
Senator Don  , found the morning party, with many ad
ditions, lingering over the dessert. There was some gaiety, but
evidently forced. It reminded me of a marriage feast previous to
the departure of the bride, who is about to be separated from her
family for the first time. Yet how different in fact this banquet,
where the mother and daughter met together for the last time _on
earth !
At stated periods, indeed, the mother may hear her daughter's
voice speaking to her as from the depths of the tomb ; but she may
never more fold her in her arms, never more share in her joys or in
her sorrows, or nurse her in sickness; and when her own last hour
arrives, though but a few streets divide them, she may not give her
dying blessing to the child who has been for so many years the
pride of her eyes and heart.
I have seen no country where families are so knit together as in
Mexico, where the affections are so concentrated, or where such
devoted respect and obedience are shown by the married sons and
daughters to their parents. In that respect they always remain as
httle children. I know many famihes of which the married branches
continue to hve in their father's house, forming a sort of smah
colony, and living in the most perfect harmony. They cannot bear
the idea of being separated, and nothing but dire necessity ever
forces them to leave their fatherland. To ah the accounts which
travellers give them of the pleasures to be met with in European
capitals, they turn a deaf ear. Their famihes are in Mexico — their
parents, and sisters, and relatives — and there is no happiness for them
elsewhere. The greater therefore is the sacrifice which those pa
rents make, who from religious motives devote their daughters to a
conventual hfe.
 , however., was furious at the whole affair, which he said was
entirely against the mother's consent, though that of the father had
been obtained ; and pointed out to me the confessor whose influence
had brought it about. The girl herself was now very pale, but
evidently resolved to conceal her agitation, and the mother seemed
as if she could shed no more tears — quite exhausted with weeping.
As the hour for the ceremony drew near, the whole party became
more grave and sad, ah but the priests, who were smiling and talking
together in groups. The girl was not still a moment. She kept
walking hastily through the house, taking leave of the servants, and
naming probably her last wishes about every thing. She was fol
lowed by her younger sisters, ah in tears.
But it struck six, and the priests intimated that it was time to
move. She and her mother went down stahs alone, and entered
the carriage which was to drive them through ah the principal
streets, to show the nun to the pubhc according to custom, and to

160 THE CEREMONY.
let them take their last look, they of her, and she of them. As
they got in, we all crowded to the balconies to see her take leave
of her house, her aunts saying, "Yes, child, despidcte de tucasa, take
leave of your house, for you will never see it again !" Then came
sobs from the sisters, and many of the gentlemen, ashamed of their
emotion, hastily quitted the room. I hope, for the sake of huma
nity, I did not rightly interpret the look of constrained anguish
which the poor girl threw from the window of the carriage at the
home of her childhood.
They drove off, and the relations prepared to walk in procession
to the church. I walked with the Count S  o, the others fohoAved
in pairs. The church was very brilhantly ihuminated, and as we
entered, the band was playing one of Strauss's waltzes ! The crowd
was so tremendous that we were nearly squeezed to a jelly in getting
to our places. I was carried off my feet between two fat Sefioras
in mantillas and shaking diamond pendants, exactly as if I had been
packed between two movable feather-beds.
They gave me, however, an excehent place, quite close to the
grating, beside the Countess de S  o, that is to say, a place to
kneel on. A great bustle and much preparation seemed to be going
on within the convent, and veiled figures were flitting about,
whispering, arranging, &c. Sometimes a skinny old dame would
come close to the grating, and lifting up her veil, bestow upon the
pensive pubhc a generous view of a very haughty and very wrinkled
visage of some seventy years standing, and beckon into the church
for the major-domo of the convent (an excehent and profitable
situation by the way), or for padre this or that. Some of the holy
ladies recognised and spoke to me through the grating.
But at the discharge of fireworks outside the church the curtain
was dropped, for this was the signal that the nun and her mother
had arrived. An opening was made in the crowd as they passed
into the church; and the girl, kneeling down, was questioned by
the bishop, but I could not make out the dialogue, which was car
ried on in a low voice. She then passed into the convent by a side
door, and her mother, quite exhausted and nearly in hysterics, was
supported through the crowd to a place beside us, in front of the
grating. The music struck up ; the curtain was again drawn aside.
The scene was as striking here as in the convent of the Santa Teresa,
but not so lugubrious. The nuns, ah ranged around, and carrying
hghted tapers in their hands, were dressed in mantles of bright blue,
with a gold plate on the left shoidder. Their faces, hoAvever, were
covered with deep black veils. The girl, kneeling in front, and
also bearing a heavy lighted taper, looked beautiful, with her dark
hair and rich dress, and the long black lashes resting on her glowing
face. The churchmen near the ihuminated and magnificently-decked
altar formed, as usual, a brihiant back-ground to the picture. The
ceremony was the same as on the former occasion, but there was no
sermon.

THE BISHOP. 161
The most terrible thing to witness was the last, straining, anxious
look which the mother gave her daughter through the grating. She
had seen her child pressed to the arms of strangers, and welcomed
to her new home. She was no longer hers. All the sweet ties of
nature had been rudely severed, and she had been forced to consign
her, in the very bloom of youth and beauty, at the very age in which
she most required a mother's care, and when she had but just fulfilled
the promise of her childhood, to a living tomb. Still, as long as the
curtain had not fallen, she could gaze upon her, as upon one on
whom, though dead, the coffin-lid is not yet closed.
But while the new-made nun was in a blaze of light, and distinct
on the foreground, so that we could mark each varying expression
of her face, the crowd in the church, and the comparative faintness
of the hght, probably made it difficult for her to distinguish her
mother; for, knowing that the end was at hand, she looked anxi
ously and hurriedly into the church, without seeming able to fix her
eyes on any particular object; while her mother seemed as if her
eyes were glazed, so intently were they fixed upon her daughter.
Suddenly, and without any preparation, down fell the black cur
tain like a pall, and the sobs and tears of the family broke forth.
One beautiful httle child was carried out almost in fits. Water was
brought to the poor mother; and at last, making our way with
difficulty through the dense crowd, we got into the sacristy. " I
declare," said the Countess  to me, wiping her eyes, "it is
worse than a marriage !" I expressed my horror at the sacrifice of
a girl so young, that she could not possibly have known her own
mind. Almost all the ladies agreed with me, especially all who had
daughters, but many of the old gentlemen were of a different opinion.
The young men were decidedly of my way of thinking, but many
young girls, who were conversing together, seemed rather to envy
their friend, who had looked so pretty and graceful, and " so happy,"
and whose dress " suited her so well," and to have no objection to
*' go, and do likewise."
I had the honour of a presentation to the bishop, a fat and portly
prelate, with good manners, and weh besuiting his priestly garments.
I amused myself, while we waited for the carriages, by looking over
a pamphlet which lay on the table, containing the ceremonial of the
veil-taking. When we rose to go, ah the ladies of the highest rank
devoutly kissed the bishop's hand; and I went home, thinking by
what law of God a child can thus be dragged from the mother who
bore and bred her, and immured in a cloister for hfe, amongst
strangers, to whom she has no tie, and towards whom she owes no
duty. That a convent may be a blessed shelter from the calamities
of life, a haven for the unprotected, a resting-place for the weary,
a safe and holy asylum, where a new family and kind friends await
those whose natural ties are broken and whose early friends are gone,
I am willing to admit ; but it is not in the flower of youth that the
warm heart should be consigned to the cold cloister. Let the young
M

162 VERSES.
take their chance of sunshine or of storm: the calm and shady retreat
is for helpless and unprotected old age.
 , to whom I described one of these ceremonies, wrote some
verses, suggested by my account of them, which I send you.
In tropic gorgeousness, the Lord of Day
To the bright chambers of the west retired,
And with the glory of his parting ray
The hundred domes of Mexico he fired,
When I, with vague and solemn awe inspired,
Entered the Incarnation's sacred fane.
The vaulted roof, the dim aisle far retired,
Echoed the deep-toned organ's holy strain,
Which through the incensed air did mournfully complain.
The veiling curtain suddenly withdrew,
Op'ning a glorious altar to the sight,
Where crimson intermixed its regal hue
With gold and jewels that outblazed the light
Of the huge tapers near them flaming bright
From golden stands — the bishop, mitre-crowned,
Stood stately near — in order due around
The sisterhood knelt down, their brows upon the ground.
The novice entered : to her doom she went,
Gems on her robes, and flowers upon her brow.
Virgin of tender years, poor innocent!
Pause, ere thou speak th' irrevocable vow.
What if thy heart should change, thy spirit fail ?
She kneels. The black-robed sisters cease to bow.
They raise a hymn which seems a funeral wail,
While o'er the pageant falls the dark, lugubrious veil.
Again the veil is up. On earth she lies,
With the drear mantle of the pall spread o'er,
The new-made nun, the living sacrifice,
Dead to this world of our's for evermore!
The sun his parting rays has ceased to pour,
As loth to lend his light to such a scene. . .
The sisters raise her from the sacred floor,
Supporting her their holy arms between ;
The mitred priest stands up with patriarchal mien,
And speaks the benediction ; all is done.
A life-in-death must her long years consume.
She clasped her new-made sisters one by one.
As the black shadows their embraces gave
They seemed like spectres from their place of doom,
Stealing from out eternal night's blind cave,
To meet their comrade new, and hail her to the grave.
The curtain fell again, the scene was o'er,
The pageant gone — its glitter and its pride,
And it would be a pageant and no more,
Bui for the maid miscalled the Heavenly Bride.
If I, an utter stranger, unallied
To her by slightest ties, some grief sustain,
What feels the yearning mother, from whose side
Is torn the child whom she hath reared in vain,
To share her joys no more, no more to sootli her pain !

163

LETTER THE TWENTY-FIRST.
San Agustin— The Gambling Fete— The Beauties of the Village— The Road
from Mexico— Entry to San Agustin— The Gambling Houses— San Antonio
—The Pedregal— Last day of the Fete— The Cock-pit— The Boxes— The
Cock-fight — Decorum — Comparisons — Dinner — Ball at Calvario — House of
General Moran— View of the Gambling Tables— The Advocate— Ball at the
Plaza de Gallos — Return to Mexico — Reflections — Conversation between
two Ministers. 15th June.
Since my last letter we have been at San Agustin de las Cuevas,
which, when I last saw it, was a deserted vihage, but which during
three days in the year presents the appearance of a vast bee-hive or
ant-hill. San Agustin! At the name how many hearts throb
with emotion ! How many hands are mechanicahy thrust into empty
pockets! How many visions of long- vanished golden ounces flit
before aching eyes ! What faint crowing of wounded cocks ! What
tinkling of guitars and blowing of horns come upon the ear ! Some,
indeed, there be, who can look round upon their well-stored haci
enda and easy rolling carriages, and remember the day, when with
threadbare coat, and stake of three modest ounces, they first courted
Fortune's favours, and who, being then indigent, and enjoying an
indifferent reputation, found themselves, at the conclusion of a few
successive San Agustins, the fortunate proprietors of gold, and land,
and houses; and, moreover, with an unimpeachable fame; for he
who can fling gold dust in his neighbour's eyes, prevents him from
seeing too clearly. But these favourites of the blind goddess are few
and far between; and they have for the most part, with a view to
greater security, become holders or sharers of banks at San Agustin,
thus investing their fortune in a secure fund ; more so decidedly, if
we may beheve the newspaper reports, than in the bank of the
United States at this present writing.
Time, in its revolutions whirling all things out of their places,
has made no change in the annual fete of San Agustin. Fashions
alter. The graceful mantiha gradually gives place to the ungrace
ful bonnet. The old painted coach, moving slowly hke a caravan,
with Guido's Aurora painted on its gaudy panels, is dismissed for
the London-built carriage. Old customs have passed away. The
ladies no longer sit on the door-sills, eating roast duck with their
fingers, or with the aid of tortillas. Even the Chmampas have
become stationary, and have occasionally joined the continent. But
the annual fete of San Agustin is built on a more sohd foundation
.than taste or custom, or floating soil. It is founded upon that love
M2

164 PREPARATIONS.
of gambhng, which is said to be a passion inherent in our nature,
and which is certainly impregnated with the Mexican constitution,
in man, woman, and child. The beggars gamble at the corners
of the streets or under the arches; the httle boys gamble in groups
in the villages; the coachmen and footmen gamble at the doors
of the theatre while waiting for their masters.
But while their hand is thus kept in ah the year round, there are
three days sacredly set apart annually, in which every accommoda
tion is given to those who are bent upon ruining themselves or their
neighbours ; whilst every zest that society can afford, is held out to
render the temptation more ahming. As rehgion is cahed in to
sanctify every thing, right or wrong ; as the robber wih plant a
cross at the mouth of lfis cave, and the pulque shops do occasionahy
cah themselves " Pulquerias of the Most Holy Virgin," so this
season of gambling is fixed for the fete of Pascua (Whitsunday),
and the churches and the gambhng-houses are thrown open simul
taneously. The village is in itself pretty and picturesque ; and, as a stone at
its entry informs us, was built by the active Viceroy ReArillagigedo,
with the product, as  assured us, of two lotteries. It is charm
ingly situated, in the midst of handsome villas and orchards, whose
high walls, overtopped by fruit-trees, border the narrow lanes. At
this season the trees are loaded with the yehow chabacano and the
purple plum, aheady ripe ; while the pear trees are bending under
the weight of their fruit. The gardens are fuh of flowers ; the
roses in their last bloom, covering the ground with their pink leaves,
and jasmine and sweet-peas in profusion, making the air fragrant.
The rainy season has scarce set in, though frequent showers have
laid the dust, and refreshed the air. The country villas are filled
with ah that is gayest and most distinguished in Mexico, and every
house and every room in the village has been hired for months in
advance. The ladies are in their most elegant toilets, and looking
forward to a delightful whirl of dancing, cock-fighting, gambling,
dining, dressing, and driving about.
The high-road leading from Mexico to San Agustin is covered
with vehicles of every description ; carriages, diligences, hackney-
coaches, carts, and carratelas. Those who are not fortunate enough
to possess any wheeled conveyance, come out on horse, ass, or mule ;
single, double, or treble, if necessary ; and many hundreds, with
visions of silver before their eyes, and a few clacos (pence), hid
under their rags, trudge out on foot. The President himself, in
carriage and six, and attended by his aids-de-camp, sanctions by bis
presence the amusements^ of the fete. The Mexican generals and
other officers, follow in his wake, and the gratifying spectacle may
not unfrequently be seen, of the president leaning from his box in
the plaza de gallos, and betting upon a cock, with a coatless, boot
less, hatless, and probably worthless ragamuffin in the pit. Every
one, therefore, hoAvever humble his degree, has the pleasure, while

THE PEDREGAL. 165
following his speculative inchnations, of reflecting that he treads in
the steps of the magnates of the land ; and, as Sam Weller would
say, " Vot a consolation that must be to his feelings !"
_ At ah events, nothing can be gayer than the appearance of the
village, as your carriage makes its way through the narrow lanes
into the principal plaza, amidst the assembled crowd of coaches and
foot-passengers ; though the faces of the people bear evidence that
pleasure alone has not brought them to San Agustin. All round
the square are the gambling-houses, where for three nights and
three days every table is occupied. At the principal montes nothing
is played but gold, but as there is accommodation for all classes, so
there are silver tables in the inferior houses, Avhile outside are rows
of tables on which are heaps of copper, covered with a rugged
awning, and surrounded by leperos and blanketed Indians, playing
monta in imitation of their betters, though on a scale more suited
to their finances.
Having left Mexico early in the morning, we stopped to break
fast at San Antonio, a noble hacienda, about four leagues from
Mexico, belonging to the Dowager Marquesa de Vivanco, where we
breakfasted with a large party. It is a fine sohd mass of building,
and as you enter the courtyard, through a deep archway, the great
outhouses, stables, and especially the granary, look hke remains of
feudahsm, they are on so large and magnificent a scale. It is an
immense and valuable property, producing both maize and maguey,
and the hospitahty of the family, who are amongst our earhest
friends here, is upon as large a scale as every thing that belongs to
them. We had a splendid breakfast, in a fine old hah, and staid
but a short time to visit the gardens and the chapel, as we were
anxious to amA^e at San Agustin in time for the cock-fight.
It is singular, that while San Agustin is situated in the midst of
the most fertile and productive country, there should fie opposite to
it, and bounded as it were by the graceful Peruvian trees and silver
poplars which surround a small church on the other side of the
high-road, a great tract of black lava, sterile, bleak, and entirely
destitute of vegetation, called the Pedregal. This covers the country
ah along to San Agustin and to the base of the mountain of
Ajusco, which lies behind it, contrasting strangely with the beauti
ful groves and gardens in its neighbourhood, and looking as if it
had been cursed for some crime committed there. The high road,
which runs nearly in a direct hne from the hacienda to San Agustin,
is broad and in tolerable repair ; but before arriving there, it is so
little attended to, that during the rainy season it might be passed in
canoes ; yet this immense formation of ferruginous lava and porphy-
ritic rock hes conveniently in its vicinity. A large sum, supposed
to be employed in mending the road, is collected annually at the
toll, close to San Antonio. For each carriage two dohars are asked,
and for carts and animals in proportion. The proprietor of this toll
or postazgo is also the owner of the plaza de gallos, where a dollar

166 COCK-FIGHT.
is paid for entry, the sums produced by which go exclusively to
enrich the same individual. The government has no advantage
from it 
The last day of the fete is considered the best, and it is most
crowded on that day, both by famihes from Mexico and by foreigners
who go solely for pleasure, though not unfrequently tempted to do
a httle business on their own account. In fact, the temptations are
great; and it must be difficult for a young man to withstand them.
We went to the gallos about three o'clock. The plaza was
crowded, and the ladies in theh boxes looked hke a parterre of
different coloured flowers. But whilst the Seiioras in theh boxes
did honour to the fete by their brilliant toilet, the gentlemen prome
naded round the circle in jackets, high and low being on the same
curtailed footing, and certainly in a style of dress more befitting the
exhibition. The president and his suite were aheady there, also
several of the foreign ministers.
Meanwhile, the cocks crowed valiantly, bets were adjusted, and
even the women entered into the spirit of the scene, taking bets with
the gentlemen sotta voce in theh boxes, upon such and such favour
ite animal. As a smah knife is fastened to the leg of each cock, the
battle seldom lasted long, one or other falling every few minutes in
a pool of blood. Then there was a clapping of hands, mingled
with the loud crowing of some unfortunate cock, who was giAfing
himself airs previous to a combat where he was probably destined
to crow Ms last. It has a curious effect to European eyes, to see
young ladies of good family, looking peculiarly feminine and gentle,
sanctioning, by their presence, this savage diversion. It is no
doubt the effect of early habit, and you will say that at least it is no
worse than a bull-fight ; which is certain — yet cruel as the latter is,
I find something more en grande, more noble, in the
" Ungentle sport that oft invites
The Spanish maid, and cheers the Spanish swain ;"
in the roaring of the " lord of loAving herds" — the galloping of the
fine horses, the skill of the riders, the gay dresses, the music and
the agile matador; in short, in the whole pomp and circumstances
of the combat, than when one looks quietly on to see two birds peck
each other's eyes out, and cut each other to pieces. Unlike cock
pits in other countries, attended by blacklegs and pickpockets and
gentlemanly roues, by far the largest portion of the assembly in the
pit was composed of the first young men in Mexico, and for that
matter, of the first old ones also. There was neither confusion, nor
noise, nor even loud talking, far less swearing, amongst the lowest
of those assembled in the ring ; and it is tlfis quiet and orderly be
haviour which throws over all these incongruities a cloak of decency
and decorum, that hides their impropriety so completely, that even
foreigners who have hved here a few years, and Avho were at first
struck with astonishment by these tilings, are now quite reconciled
to them.

GAMBLING-TABLES. 167
As far as the company went, it might have been the House of
Representatives in Washington ; the ladies in the gahery listen
ing to the debates, and the members in the body of the house sur
rounding Messrs.  and  , or any other two vehement orators ;
applauding their biting remarks and cutting sarcasms, and encou
raging them to crow over each other. The president might have
been the speaker, and the corps diplomatique represented itself.
We had an agreeable dinner at the E  s, and afterwards accom
panied them to the Calvario, a hill where there was a bah alfresco,
which was rather amusing, and then paid a Aasit to the family of
General Moran, who has a beautiful house and gardens in the
neighbourhood. We found a large party assembled, and amongst
them the president. Afterwards, accompanied by the  minis
ter and the ladies of our party, we went to take a view of the gam
bling-tables, and opened our eyes at the heaps of gold, which
changed owners every minute. I saw C  a, a milhonaire, win
and lose a thousand ounces, apparently with equal indifference. A
httle advocate haAong won two thousand five hundred ounces,
wisely ordered his carriage and set off for Mexico, with the host fee
he had ever received in his hfe. Ladies do not generally look on at
the tables, but may if they please, and especially if they be stran
gers. Each gambling-room was weh fitted up, and looked like a
private apartment.
We then returned home and dressed for the bah, which is given
in the evening in the plaza de gallos. We first went up stairs to a
box, but I afterwards took the advice of M. de  and came
down to see the dancers. There were ladies in full dress, and
gentlemen in white jackets — rather inconsistent. The company,
though perfectly quiet and well-behaved, were not very select, and
were, on that account, particularly amusing. Madame de  and
I walked about, and certainly laughed much more than we should
have done in a more distinguished society.
About two in the morning we returned to Mexico, and as I
this moment receive a note from the American minister, informing
me that the packet from Vera Cruz is about to sail, I shall send off
my letters now ; and should we still be here next year, I shall then
give you a more detailed description of the fete, of the ball, both at
Calvario and in the cock-pit, and also of the "high hfe below
stairs" gambhng, at which the scenes are impayable. In one re
spect, the fashions of San Agustin are altered from what they
were a few years ago, when the Senoras used to perform five
elaborate and distinct toilettes daily ; the first in the morning, the
second for the cock-fight, the third for the dinner, the fourth for
the ball on the hill of Calvary, and the fifth for the bah in the
evening. I am told that as they danced in the open air, on the
hih, with all their diamonds and pearls on, in the midst of an im
mense concourse of people, a great many jewels were constantly
lost, which the leperos used afterwards to search for, and pick up

168 REFLECTIONS.
from the grass ; a rich harvest. Though they stih dress a great
deal, they are contented with changing theh toilet twice, or at the
most, three times in the course of the day.
Upon the whole, these three days are excessively amusing, and as
ah ranks and conditions are mingled, one sees much more variety
than at a bah in the city.
On their way home, C  n and Sefior  discussed the effects
hkely to be produced on the morals of the people by this fete.
Sefior  , like nearly ah the wisest men here, persists in con
sidering gambhng an innocent amusement, and declares, that at
ah events, tlfis fete ought never to be done away with. In his
opinion, it conduces to the happiness of the people, gives them an
annual pleasure to look forward to, and by the mingling of ah ranks
which then takes place, keeps up a good feeling between the higher
and lower orders. C  n asked him why, if such was the
case, the government did not, at least, endeavour to draw some
advantage from it, after the manner of the Count de Revihagigedo
— why, as the bank, by the nature of the game, has, besides a great
capital, which swallows up ah the smaller ones, an immense profit,
amounting to twenty -five per cent., they do not make the bankers
pay four or five per cent., and charge half a dollar or more to each
indrvidual who enters to gamble ; with which money they might
beautify the village, make a pubhc pasoe, a good road, a canal to
Mexico, &c.
I thought that whatever the government might feel on this sub
ject, neither the bankers nor the gamblers would relish the insinua
tion. I shall write in a few days by the Baron de  , minister
from  , who leaves Mexico in a fortnight.

LETTER THE TWENTY-SECOND.
Countess C  a — Gutierrez Estrada — Dinner at General Moran's — Dowager
Marquesa — Fete at San Antonio — Approach of the Rainy Season — Diamonds
and Plate — Great Ball — Night Travelling — Severe Storm — Chapter of Acci
dents—Corpus Christi — Poblana Dress— Book Club— Ball— Humming Bird
— Franciscan Friar — Missions to Old and New California — Zeal and Endur
ance of the Missionaries — Present Condition — Convent Gardener. 17th June.
As we dine nearly every Sunday with the Countess de la C  a
at Tacubay, where she keeps open house to ah her friends, we have

DIAMONDS AND PLATE. 169
had the pleasure of becoming intimately acquainted with her son-
in-law, Sefior Gutierrez Estrada, who, with his amiable wife, has
lately returned from Europe.
_ A great dinner was given us the other day by General Moran and
his lady the Marquesa de Vivanco, at San Agustin. We went early
that we might have time to walk about the garden, which is beautiful,
and to visit an artificial cave there, which we found lighted up with
coloured lamps, and where a most fascinating species of cold milk
punch, Avith cakes, Avas served to the company. The dinner would
certainly have been superb in any country; the family have tra
velled a great deal in Europe, (per force, the general having been
exiled for several years,) and are amongst the oldest and richest in
Mexico. The Dowager Marquesa has a most patriarchal family of
daughters and grand-daughters, and of the large party assembled at
table, nearly all were composed of its different members. In the
evening we had a pleasant dance under the trees.
20th. — Being invited yesterday to a fete at San Antonio, we
left Mexico about eight o'clock, by the great causeway leading to San
Agustin. The day was peculiarly brihiant, but the rainy season
is noAV announcing its approach by frequent showers towards even
ing. We found a large party assembled, and about twelve o'clock
sat down to a most magnificent breakfast of about sixty persons.
Every thing was solid silver; even the plates. A vast capital is
sunk in diamonds and plate in this country, no good sign of the
state of commerce. The ladies in general were dressed in white
embroidered mushns, over white or coloured satin, and one or two
Paris dresses shone conspicuous. There was one specimen of real
Mexican beauty ; the Sefiora  , a face perhaps more Indian than
Spanish, very dark, with fine eyes, beautiful teeth, very long, dark
hair, and fuh of expression. The house, which is immensely large,
is furnished, or rather unfurnished, in the style of all Mexican
haciendas. After breakfast, we had music, dancing, walking, and bil
liard-playing. Some boleros were very gracefully danced by a
daughter of the Marquesa's, and they also showed us some dances
of the country. The fete terminated with the most beautiful supper
I almost ever saw. A great hall was hghted with coloured lamps,
the wahs entirely hned with green branches, and hung with fresh
garlands of flowers most tastefully arranged. There was a great
deal of gaiety and cordiality, of magnificence without ceremony,
and riches without pretension.
Although warned by various showers that a bad night would
probably set in, and although it was too hkely that the hopitality
within the house would be extended to our coachmen, and even
though the whole party were strongly pressed by the Marquesa to
pass the night there, so that it was with difficulty we resisted her
entreaties to remain, we did, in the face of ah this, set off at twelve
o'clock at night to return to Mexico ; about seven carriages together,
with various gentlemen riding. Though very dark there was no

170 CORPUS CHRISTI.
rain, and we flattered ourselves it would keep fair tih we reached
the city. The minister of the interior, who is married to a daughter
of the Marquesa, C  n and I, and la Giiera Rodriguez, set off in
one carriage. Some carriages had lamps, others had none. Some
had six horses; we had six mules, and an escort of dragoons. We
had not gone two miles before a thunderstorm came on; and the
black clouds which had been gathering above our heads, burst forth
in torrents of rain. The wind was tremendous. All the lamps were
extinguished. The horses waded up to theh knees in mud and
water. Suddenly there was a crash, followed by loud cries. A
carriage Avas overturned, in which were the Sefiora L  and a
party of gentlemen. In the midst of this awful storm, and perhaps
still more bewildered by generous liquor, their coachman had lost
his way, and lodged them ah in a ditch. The poor sefiora was
dreadfully bruised, her head cut, and her wrist dislocated. In the
darkness and confusion she was extricated with difficulty, and placed
in another carriage.
Our mules stood still. As far as the noise of the storm would
allow us to hear, we made out that our coachman also had lost the
road. Two dragoons rode up to direct him. One feh, horse and
ah, into a deep ditch, where he remained tih the next morning.
Another carriage came ploughing its way behind us. Another
exclamation in the darkness ! A mule had fahen and broken his
traces, and plunged into the water. The poor animal could not be
found. Never was there such a chapter of accidents. We were the
only carriage-load which escaped entirely, owing chiefly to the
sobriety of the coachman. Very slowly, and after sundry deten
tions, we arrived in Mexico towards morning, very tired, but with
neither broken bones nor bruises.
18th. — Day of the Corpus Christi, in which the host is carried
through the city in great procession, at which the President, in fuh
uniform, the Archbishop, and ah the ministers, &c, assist. In former
days this ceremony took place on Holy Thursday; but finding that,
on account of the various ceremonies of the holy week, it could not
be kept with due solemnity, another day was set apart for its cele
bration. We went to a window in the square, to see the procession,
which was very brihiant; all the troops out, and the streets crowded.
Certainly, a stranger entering Mexico on one of these days would be
struck with surprise at its apparent wealth. Every tiling connected
with the church is magnificent.
This evening the Sefiora A  came after it was dark, in a
Poblana dress, which she had just bought to wear at a Jamaica,.
which they are going to have in the country — a sort of fair, where
ah the girls disguise themselves in peasants' dresses, and go about
selling fruit, lemonade, vegetables, &c, to each other — a very ancient.
Mexican amusement. Tlfis dress cost her some hundred dohars.
The top of the petticoat is yehow satin; the rest, which is of scarlet
cashmere, is embroidered in gold and silver. Her hah was fastened

NEWSPAPERS. 171
back with a thick silver comb, and her ornaments were very hand
some, coral set in gold. Her shoes white satin, embroidered in
gold; the sleeves and body of the chemise, which is of the finest
cambric, trimmed with rich lace; and the petticoat, which comes
below the dress, shows two flounces of Valenciennes. She looks
beautiful in this dress, which will not be objected to in the country,
though it might not suit a fancy ball in Mexico.
June 27th. — I was awakened this morning by hearing that two
boxes had arrived from New York, containing books, letters, &c. ;
ah very acceptable. We also received a number of old newspapers
by post, for which we had to pay eighteen dollars ! Each sheet
costs a real and a half — a mistaken source of profit in a repubhc,
where the general diffusion of knowledge is of so much importance ;
for this not only applies to the introduction of French and Enghsh,
but also of Spanish newspapers. Sefiors Gutierrez Estrada and Canedo
used every effort to reduce this duty on newspapers, but in vain.
The post-office opposes its reduction, fearing to be deprived of an
imaginary rent — imaginary, because so few persons, comparatively,
think it worth their while to go to tlfis expense.
There is but one daily newspaper in Mexico, " La Gazeta del
Gobierno" (the government paper), and it is filled with orders and
decrees. An opposition paper, the " Cosmopohta," is pubhshed
twice a week; also a Spanish paper, the " Hesperia;" both (especi
ally the last) are well written. There is also the " Mosquito," so
called from its stinging sarcasms. Now and then another with a new
title appears, hke a shooting star, but, from want of support, or
from some other motive, is suddenly extinguished.
Enhghtened individuals like Don Lucas Alaman and Count Cor
tina have pubhshed newspapers, but not for any length of time.
Count Cortina, especiahy, edited a very witty and brihiant paper
called the " Zurriago," the " Scourge," and another cahed the-
" Mono," the " Ape;" and in many of his articles he was tolerably
severe upon the incorrect Spanish of his brother editors, of which
no one can be a better judge, he having been a member of the
" Academia de la Lengua," in Spain.
The only kind of monthly review in Mexico is _ the " Mosaico
Megicano," whose editor has made his fortune by his own activity
and exertions. Frequently it contains more translations than original
matter; but from time to time it publishes scientific articles, said to
be written by Don J. M. Bustamante, which are very valuable, and
occasionahy a brilliant article from the pen of Count Cortina. General
Orbegoso, who is of Spanish origin, is also a contributor. Some
times, though rarely, it publishes " documentos ineditos" (unedited
documents), connected with Mexican antiquities, and Mexican natural
history and biography, which are very important; and now and
then it contains a httle poetical gem, I know not whether original
or not, but exceedingly beautiful. So far as it goes, this review is.
one 'great means of spreading knowledge, at least amongst the better

172 MISSIONS.
classes; but I understand that the editor, Don Ygnacio Cumphdo, a
very courteous, intelligent man, complains that it does not pay.
There are no circulating libraries in Mexico. Books are at least
double the price that they are in Europe. There is no diffusion of
useful knowledge amongst the people ; neither cheap pampldets nor
cheap magazines written for their amusement or instruction ; but
this is less owing to want of attention to their interests on the part
of many good and enlightened men, than to the unsettled state of the
country ; for the blight of civil war prevents the best systems from
ripening. Fortunately, there is an Enghsh society here, a kind of book-club,
who, with their minister, have united in a subscription to order from
England ah the new pubhcations, and as C  n is a member of
this society, we are not so arrieres in regard to the literature of the
day as might be supposed. Like all Enghsh societies, its basis is a
good dinner, Avhich each member gives in turn, once a month, after
which there is a sale of the books that have been read, and proposi
tions for new books are given in to the President. It is an excellent
plan, and I beheve is in part adopted by other foreigners here. But
Germans of a certain class do not seem to be sufficiently numerous
for such an undertaking, and the French in Mexico, barring some
distinguished exceptions, are apt to be amongst the very worst spe
cimens of that people which " le plaisant pays de France" can furnish
forth. We went lately to a bah given by a young Enghshman, which was
very pretty, and where nearly all the Enghsh were cohected. Of
families there are not more than hah a dozen resident here, the mem
bers of whom form a striking contrast in complexion to the Mexicanas.
With very few exceptions (and these in the case of Enghsh women
married to foreigners) they keep themselves entirely aloof from the
Mexicans, live quietly in their own houses, into which they hav
transplanted as much English comfort as possible, rarely travel, and
naturally find Mexico the dullest of cities. C  n has gone to dine
with the Enghsh minister, and I am left alone in tlfis large room,
with nothing but a humming bird to keep me company ; the last of
my half dozen. It looks hke a large blue fly, and is perfectly tame,
but will not hve many days.
I was startled by a solemn voice, saying, " Ave Maria Purissima !"
And looking up there stood in the door-way a " friar of orders gray,"
bringing some message to C  n from the head of the convent of
San Fernando, with which monks C  n has formed a great inti
macy, chiefly in consequence of the interest which he has taken in
the history of their missions to California.
In fact, when we hear the universal cry that is raised against these
communities for the inutility of their lives, it is but just that excep
tions should be made in favour of those orders, who, hke the monks of
San Fernando, have dispersed their missionaries over some of the most
miserable parts of the globe, and who, undeterred by danger, and by

NEW CALIFORNIA. 173
the prospect of death, have carried light to the most benighted savages.
These institutions are of a very remote date. A learned Jesuit monk,
Eusebio Kuhn, is said to have been the first Avho discovered that
Cahfornia was a peninsula. In 1683 the Jesuits had formed esta
blishments in Old California, and for the first time it was made known
that the country which had until then been considered an El Dorado,
rich in all precious metals and diamonds, was arid, stony, and with
out water or earth fit for vegetation ; that where there is a spring of
water it is to be found amongst the bare rocks, and where there is
earth there is no water. A few spots were found by these indus
trious men, uniting these advantages, and there they founded their
first missions.
But the general hatred with which the Jesuits were regarded,
excited suspicion against them, and it was generally supposed that
their accounts were false, and that they were privately becoming pos
sessed of much treasure. A visitador (surveyor) was sent to examine
into the truth, and though he could discover no traces of gold or
silver, he was astonished by the industry and zeal with which they
had cultivated the barren and treeless waste. In a few years they
had built sixteen villages, and when they were expelled in 1767, the
Dominican friars of Mexico took their place.
Until these missions were established, and in every part of the
peninsula which is not included in the territory of the missions, the
savages were the most degraded specimens of humanity existing,
More degraded than the beasts of the field, they lay all day upon
their faces on the arid sand, basking in the heat; they abhorred all
species of clothing, and their only rehgion was a secret horror that
caused them to tremble at the idea of three divinities, belonging to
three different tribes, and which divinities were themselves supposed
to feel a mortal hatred, and to wage perpetual war against each other.
Undeterred by the miserable condition both of human and of
vegetable nature, these missionaries cultivated the ground, estabhshed
colonies, made important astronomical observations, and devoted
themselves to science, to agriculture, and to the amehoration of the
condition of these wretched savages.
In New Cahfornia, the missions were under the charge of thirty-
six Franciscan friars, under whom the most extraordinary progress
in civihzation took place; since in httle more than thirty years, up
wards of thirty-three thousand Indians were baptized, and eight
thousand marriages had taken place. The soil being fertile and the
climate more benign than in the other Cahfornia, in eighteen mis
sions estabhshed there, they cultiA'ated corn, wheat, maize, &c, and
introduced vegetables and fruit trees from Spain; amongst these the
vine and the olive, from which excehent wine and oil were made,
ah through that part of the country.
Amongst the monks destined to these distant missions were those
of San Fernando. There, banished from the world, deprived of ah

174 MONKS OF SAN FERNANDO.
the advantages of civilization, they devoted themselves to the task of
taming the wild Indians, introduced marriage amongst them, taught
them to cultivate the ground, together with some of the most simple
arts; assisted their wants, reproved their sins, and transplanted the
beneficent doctrines of Christianity amongst them, using no arms but
the influence which religion and kindness, united with extreme pa
tience, had over their stubborn natures ; and making what Humboldt,
in speaking of the Jesuit Missions, calls " a pacific conquest" of the
country. Many were the hardships which these poor men endured ; changed
from place to place; at one time ordered to some barren shore, where
it Avas necessary to recommence their labours, — at another, recalled
to the capital by orders of the prelate, in conjunction with the wishes
of their brethren, among whom there was a species of congress, cahed
by them a capitulo. No increase of rank, no reward, no praise, in
spired their labours ; theh only recompense was their intimate con
viction of doing good to their fehow-creatures.
In the archives of the convent there stih exist papers, proving the
hardships which these men underwent; the zeal with which they
applied themselves to the study of the languages of the country;
(and when we are informed that in the space of one hundred and
eighty leagues, nineteen different languages are spoken, it was no
such easytask,) and containing theh descriptions of its physical and
moral state, more or less weh written, according to theh- different
degrees of instruction or talent.
It frequently happened that marketable goods and even provisions
had to be sent by sea to those missionaries who hved in the most
savage and uncultivated parts of the peninsula ; and a curious anec
dote on this subject was related to C  n by one of these men who
is now a gardener by profession. It happened that some one sent
to the monks, amongst other things, a case of fine Malaga raisins;
and one of the monks, whose name I forget, sowed a number of the
dried seeds. In process of time they sprouted up, became vines, and
produced fine grapes, from which the best wine in California was
made. When the independence was declared, and that revolutionary fury
which makes a merit of destroying every establishment, good or bad,
which is thework of the opposite party, broke forth; the Mexicans,
to prove their hatred to the mother country, destroyed these benefi
cent institutions; thus committing an error as fatal in its results as
when in 1828 they expehed so many rich proprietors, who were fol
lowed into exile by their numerous famihes and by their old ser
vants, who gave them in these times of trouble proofs of attachment
and fidelity belonging to a race now scarcely existing here, except
amongst a few of the oldest famihes.
The result hasbeen, that the frontiers, being now unprotected by
the military garrisons or presidios, which were estabhshed there, and

CONVENT GARDENER. 175
deserted by the missionaries, the Indians are no longer kept under
subjection, either by the force of arms or by the good counsels and
persuasive influence of their padres. The Mexican territory is, in con
sequence, perpetually exposed to their invasions — whole families are
massacred, by the savages, who exchange guns for rifles, which they
already know how to use, and these evil consequences are occasionally
and imperfectly averted at a great expense to the republic. Busta
mante has indeed been making an investigation lately as to the funds
and general condition of these estabhshments, with the intention of
re-establishing some similar institutions ; but as yet I beheve that
nothing decisive has been done in this respect. . . .
Near the convent there is a beautiful garden, where we sometimes
walk in the morning, cultivated by an old monk, who, after spend
ing a laborious hfe in these distant missions, is now enjoying a con
tented old age among his plants and flowers. Perhaps you are tired
of my prosing (caused by the apparition of the old lay-brother) and
would prefer some account of him in verse.
An aged monk in San Fernando dwells,
An innocent and venerable man ;
His earlier days were spent within its cells,
And end obscurely as they first began.
Manhood's career in savage climes he ran,
On lonely California's Indian shore —
Dispelling superstition's deadly ban.
Or teaching (what could patriot do more ?)
Those rudiments of peace, the gardener's humble store.
Oft have I marked him, silent and apart,
Loitering near the sunny convent-gate,
Rewarded by tranquillity of heart
For toils so worthy of the truly great ;
And in my soul admired, compared his state
With that of some rude brawler, whose crude mind
Some wondrous change on earth would fain create ;
Who after flatt'ring, harassing mankind,
Gains titles, riches, pomp, with shame and scorn combined.

176

LETTER THE TWENTY-THIRD.
The President— Yturbide— Visit from the Archbishop— Seiior Canedo—Ge-
neral Almonte— Seiior Cuevas— Situation of an Archbishop in Mexico—
Of Seiior Posada— His Life— Mexican Charity— Wax Figures— Anecdote-
Valuable Present — Education — Comparison — Schools — Opportunities-
Natural Talent— Annual— Compliments to the Mexican Ladies by the
Editor— Families of the Old School— Morals— Indulgence— Manners— Love
of Country — Colleges. 5th July.
Yesterday morning we had a visit from the President, with two
of his officers. He was riding one of the handsomest black horses
I ever saw. On going out we stopped to look at a wax figure of
Yturbide on horseback, which he considers a good resemblance,
and which was sent me as a present some time ago. He ought to
be a good judge, as he was a most devoted friend of the unfor
tunate Agustin X, who, whatever were his faults, seems to have in
spired his friends with the most devoted and enthusiastic attachment.
In the prime of hfe, brave and active, handsome and fond of show,
he had ah the quahties which render a chief popular with the mul
titude ; " but popularity, when not based upon great benefits, is
transient ; it is founded upon a principle of egotism, because a whole
people cannot have personal sympathies." Ambition led him to de
sert the royal cause which he had served for nine years ; and vanity
bhnded him to the dangers that surrounded him in the midst of his
triumphs, even when proclaimed Emperor by the united voice of
the garrison and city of Mexico — when his horses were taken from
his carriage, and when amidst the shouts of the multitude, his coach
was dragged in triumph to the palace. His great error, according to
those who talk of him impartiahy, was indecision in the most cri
tical emergencies, and his permitting himself to be governed by
circumstances, instead of directing these circumstances as they oc
curred. I could not help thinking, as the general stood there looking at
the waxen image of his friend, what a stormy hfe he himself has
passed ; how httle real tranquillity he can ever have enjoyed ; and
wondering Avhether he will be permitted to finish his presidential
days in peace, which, according to rumour, is doubtful.
8th. — I had the honour of a long visit tlfis morning from his
Grace the Archbishop. He came about eleven o'clock, after mass,
and remained tih dinner time, sitting out all our Sunday visiters,
who are generally numerous, as it is the only day of rest for employes.

THE ARCHBISHOP. 177
and especially for the cabinet. Amongst our visiters were Sefior
Canedo, who is extremely agreeable in conversation, and as an ora
tor famed for his sarcasm and cutting wit. He has been particularly
kind and friendly to us ever since our arrival — General Almonte,
Minister of War, a handsome man and pleasant, and an officer of
great bravery — very unpopular with one party and especially dishked
by the English, but also a great friend of ours. Sefior Cuevas,
Minister of the Interior, married to a daughter of the Marquesa de
Vivanco, an amiable and excellent man, who seems generally liked,
and is also most friendly to us. All these gentlemen are praised or
abused according to the party of the person who speaks of them ;
but I not interfering in Mexican politics, find them amongst the
most pleasant of our acquaintances.
However, were. I to choose a situation here, it would undoubtedly
be that of Archbishop of Mexico, the most enviable in the world to
those who would enjoy a hfe of tranquilhty, ease, and universal
adoration. He is a pope without the trouble, or a tenth part of
the responsibihty. He is venerated more than the Holy Father is
in enhghtened Rome, and, hke kings in the good old times, can do
no wrong. His salary amounts to about one hundred thousand dol
lars, and a revenue might be made by the sweetmeats alone which
are sent him from ah the nuns- in the republic. His palace in town,
his well-cushioned carriage, well-conditioned horses, and sleek mules,
seem the very. perfection of comfort. In fact, comfort, which is un
known amongst the profane of Mexico, has taken refuge with the
archbishop ; and though many drops of it are shed on the shaven
heads of ah bishops, curates, confessors, and friars, still in his illus
trious person it concentrates as in a focus. He himself is a benevo
lent, good-hearted, goodnatured, portly, and jovial personage, with
the most laissez-aller air and expression conceivable. He looks hke
one on whom the good things of this world have fallen in a constant
and benignant shower, which shower hath fallen on a rich and fertile
soil. He is generally to be seen leaning back in his carriage, dressed
in purple, with amethyst cross, and giving his benediction to the
people as he passes. He seems engaged in a pleasant reverie, and his
countenance wears an air of the most placid and insouciant content.
He enjoys a good dinner, good wine, and ladies' society, but just
sufficiently to make his leisure hours pass pleasantly, without indi
gestion from the first, headachs from the second, or heartachs from
the third. So does his hfe seem to pass on like a deep untroubled
stream, on whose margin grow sweet flowers, on whose clear waters
the bending trees are reflected, but on whose placid face no lasting
impression is made. .
I have no doubt that his charities are in proportion to _ his large
fortune; and when I say that I have no doubt of this, it is because
I firmly beheve there exists no country in the world where chanties,
both pubhc and private, are practised on so noble a scale, especially
by the women under the direction of the priests. I am inclined to
N

178 EDUCATION.
beheve that, generally speaking, charity is a distinguishing attribute
of a Cathohc country.
The archbishop is said to be a man of good information, and was
at one time a senator. In 1833, being comprehended in the law of
banishment, caused by the political disturbances which have never
ceased to afflict this country since the independence, he passed some
time in the United States, chiefly in New Orleans, but this, I be
heve, is the only cloud that has darkened his horizon, or disturbed
the tranqml current of his hfe. His consecration, with its attendant
fatigues, must have been to him a wearisome overture to a pleasant
drama, a hard stepping-stone to glory. As to the rest, he is very
unostentatious, and his conversation is far from austere. On the
contrary, he is one of the best-tempered and most cheerful old men
in society that it is possible to meet with. . . .
I send you, by the Mexican commissioners, who are kind enough
to take charge of a box for me, the figure of a Mexican tortillera,
by which you may judge a httle of the perfection in which the
commonest lepero here works in wax. The incredible patience
which enabled the ancient Mexicans to work their statues in wood
or stone with the rudest instruments, has descended to their poste
rity, as weh as their extraordinary and truly Chinese talent for imi
tation. With a common knife and a piece of hard wood, an un
educated man wih produce a fine piece of sculpture. There is no
imagination. They do not leave the beaten track, but continue on
the models which the Spanish conquerors brought out with them,
some of which, however, were very beautiful.
In wax, especiahy, their figures have been brought to great per
fection. Every thing that surrounds them they can imitate, and
their wax portraits are sometimes httle gems of art ; but in this last
branch, which belongs to a higher order of art, there are no good
workmen at present.
Apropos to which, a poor artist brought some tolerable wax por
traits here for sale the other day, and, amongst others, that of a ce
lebrated general. C  n remarked that it was fairer than the
original, as far as he recollected. " Ah !" said the man, " but when
his excehency washes his face, nothing can be more exact." A va
luable present was sent lately by a gentleman here, to the Count de
 in Spain ; twelve cases, each case containing twelve wax
figures ; each figure representing some Mexican trade, or profession
or employment. There were men drawing the pulque from the
maguey, Indian women selling vegetables, tortiheras, venders of
ducks, fruitmen, lard-sehers, the postman of Guachinango, loaded
with parrots, monkeys, &c, — more of every thing than of letters —
the Poblana peasant, the rancherita on horseback before her farm-
servant, the gaily-dressed ranchero, in short, a httle history of Mex
ico in wax.
You ask me hoAv Mexican women are educated. In answering
you, I must put aside a few brihiant exceptions, and speak en masse,

EDUCATION. 179
the most difficult thing in the world, for these exceptions are always
rising up before me hke accusing angels, and I begin to think of in
dividuals, when I should keep to generalities. Generahy speaking,
then, the Mexican Seiioras and Senoritas write, read and play a
httle, sew, and take care of their houses and children. When I
say they read, I mean they know how to read ; when I say they
write, I do not mean that they can always spell; and when I say they
play, I do not assert that they have generally a knowledge of music. If
we compare their education with that of girls in England, or in the
United States, it is not a comparison, but a contrast. Compare it with
that of Spanish women, and we shah be less severe upon theivfarniente
descendants. In the first place, the chmate inclines every one to in
dolence, both physicahy and morally. One cannot pore over a book
when the blue sky is constantly smiling in at the open windows ; then
out of doors after ten o'clock, the sun gives us due warning of our
tropical latitude, and even though the breeze is so fresh and pleasant,
one has no inchnation to walk or ride far. Whatever be the cause,
I am convinced that it is impossible to take the same exercise with
the mind or with the body in this country, as in Europe or in the
northern states. Then as to schools, there are none that can deserve
the name, and no governesses. Young girls can have no emulation,
for they never meet. They have no pubhc diversion, and no private
amusement. There are a few good foreign masters, most of whom
have come to Mexico for the purpose of making their fortune, by
teaching,- or- marriage, or both, and whose object, naturally, is to
make the most money in the shortest possible time, that they may
return home and enjoy it. The children generahy appear to have
an extraordinary disposition for music and drawing, yet there are
few girls who are proficients in either.
When very young, they occasionahy attend the schools, where
boys and girls learn to read in common, or any other accomplish
ment that the old women can teach them; but at twelve they are
aheady considered too old to attend these promiscuous assemblages,
and masters are got for dravring and music to finish their educa
tion. I asked a lady the other day if her daughter went to school.
" Good heavens !" said she, quite shocked, " she is past eleven years
old !" It frequently happens that the least weh-informed girls are
the children of the cleverest men, who, keeping to the customs of
their forefathers, are content if they confess regularly, attend church
constantly, and can embroider and sing a httle. Where there are more
extended ideas, it is chiefly amongst famihes who have travelled in
Europe, and have seen the different education of women in foreign
countries. Of these the fathers occasionahy devote a short portion
of their time to the instruction of their daughters, perhaps ^ring
their leisure evening moments, but it may easily be supposed that
this desultory system has httle real influence on the minds of
the children. I do not think there are above hah a dozen mar
ried women, or as many girls above fourteen, who, with the excep-
N 2

180 MEXICAN ANNUAL.
tion of the mass-book, read any one book through in the whole
course of the year. They thus greatly simphfy the system of edu
cation in the United States, where parties are frequently divided
between the advocates for sohd learning and those for superficial ac
complishments ; and according to whom it is difficult to amalga
mate the sohd beef of science with the sweet sauce of les beaux arts.
But if a Mexican girl is ignorant, she rarely shows it. They
have generally the greatest possible tact; never by any chance wan
dering out of their depth, or betraying by word or sign that they
are not weh informed on the subject under discussion. Though
seldom graceful, they are never awkward, and always self-possessed.
They have plenty of natural talent, and where it has been thoroughly
cultivated, no women can surpass them. Of what is cahed hterary
society, there is of course none —
" No bustling Botherbys have they to show 'em
That charming passage in the last new poem."
There is a httle annual lying beside me cahed " Calendario de las
Senoritas Mejicanas," of which the preface, by Galvan, the editor,
is very amusing.
" To none," he says, " better than to Mexican ladies, can I dedi
cate this mark of attention — (obsequio). Their graceful attractions
weh deserve any trouble that may have been taken to please them.
Their bodies are graceful as the palms of the desert ; theh hair black
as ebony, or golden as the rays of the sun, gracefully waves over
their delicate shoulders ; their glances are hke the peaceful light of
the moon. The Mexican ladies are not so white as the Europeans,
but their whiteness is more agreeable to our eyes. Their words are
soft, leading our hearts by gentleness, in the same manner as in theh
moments of just indignation they appal and confound us. Who can
resist the magic of their song, always sweet, always gentle, and al
ways natural ? Let us leave to foreign ladies (las ultramarinas)
these affected and scientific manners of singing ; here nature sur
passes art, as happens in every thing, notwithstanding the cavillings
of the learned.
" And what shah I say of their souls ? I shall say that in Eu
rope the minds are more cultivated, but in Mexico the hearts are
more amiable. Here they are not only sentimental, but tender; not
only soft, but virtuous ; the body of a child is not more sensitive,
(no es mas sensible el cuerpo de un niiio), nor a rose-bud softer. I
have seen souls as beautiful as the borders of the rainbow, and purer
than the drops of dew. Their passions are seldom tempestuous,
and even then they are kindled and extinguished easily; but gene
rahy they emit a peaceful hght, like the morning-star, Venus. Mo
desty is painted in their eyes, and modesty is the greatest and most
irresistible fascination of their souls. In short, the Mexican ladies,
by their manifold virtues, are destined to serve as our support whilst
we travel through the sad desert of life.

MORALS. 181
" Well do these attractions merit that we should try to please
them; and in effect a new form, new lustre, and new graces have
been given to the ' Almanac of the Mexican Ladies,' whom the
editor submissively entreats to receive with benevolence this smah
tribute due to their enchantments and their virtues !"
_ There are in Mexico a few famihes of the old school, people of
high rank, but who mingle very httle in society ; who are little
known to the generahty of foreigners, and who keep their daughters
entirely at home, that they may not be contaminated by bad ex
ample. These select few, rich without any ostentation, are certainly
doing every thing that is in their power to remedy the evils occa
sioned by the want of proper schools, or of competent instructresses
for their daughters. Being nearly ah allied by birth, or connected
by marriage, they form a sort of clan; and it is sufficient to belong
to one or other of these families, to be hospitably received by all.
They meet together frequently, without ceremony, and whatever
elements of good exist in Mexico, are to be found amongst them.
The fathers are generahy men of talent and learning, and the mo
thers, women of the highest respectabihty, to whose name no sus
picion can be attached.
But, indeed, it is long before a stranger even suspects the state of
morals in this country, for whatever be the private conduct of indi
viduals, the most perfect decorum prevails in outward behaviour.
But indolence is the mother of vice, and not only to httle children
might Doctor Watts have asserted that,
" Satan finds some mischief still,
For idle hands to do."
They are besides extremely leal to each other, and with proper
esprit de corps, rarely gossip to strangers concerning the errors of
their neighbours' ways; — indeed, if such a thing is hinted at, deny
all knowledge of the fact. So long as outward decency is preserved,
habit has rendered them tolerably indifferent as to the liaisons sub
sisting amongst their particular friends ; and as long as a woman
attends church regularly, is a patroness of charitable institutions, and
gives no scandal by her outward behaviour, she may do pretty much
as she pleases. As for flirtations in public, they are unknown.
I must, hoAvever, confess that this indulgence on the part of
women, of unimpeachable reputation is sometimes carried too far.
We went lately to a breakfast, at which was a young and beautiful
countess, lately married, aiid of very low birth. She looked very
splendid, with all the  diamonds, and a dress of rose-coloured
satin. After breakfast we adjourned to another room, where I ad
mired the beauty of a httle child who was playing about on the
floor, when this lady said, " Yes, she is very pretty — very like my
httle girl, who is just the same age." I was rather surprised, but
concluded she had been a widow, and made the inquiry of an old
French lady who was sitting near me. " Oh, no !" said she — " she

182 COLLEGES.
was never married before; she ahudes to the children she had
before the Count became acquainted with her!" And yet the
Sefiora de  , the. strictest woman in Mexico, was loading her
with attentions and caresses. I must say, however, that this was a
singular instance. . . .
There axe no women more affectionate in their manners than
those of Mexico. In fact, a foreigner, especiahy if he be an
Englishman, and a shy man, and accustomed to the coldness of his
fair countrywomen, need only hve a few years here, and understand
the language, and become accustomed to the pecuhar style of
beauty, to find the Mexican Sefioritas perfectly irresistible.
And that this is so, may be judged of by the many instances of
Englishmen married to the women of this country, who invariably
make them excehent wives. But when an Englishman marries
here, he ought to settle here, for it is very rare that a Mexicaine can
Hve out of her own country. They miss the climate — they miss
that warmth of manner, that universal cordiality by which they are
surrounded here. They miss the laissez-aller and absence of all
etiquette in habits, toilet, &c. They find themselves surrounded
by women so differently educated, as to be doubly strangers to
them, strangers in feeling as weh as in country. A very few
instances there are of girls, married very young, taken to Europe,
and introduced into good society, who have acquired European
ways of thinking, and even prefer other countries to their own; but
this is so rare, as scarcely to form an exception. They are true pa
triots, and the visible horizon bounds their wishes. In England
especially, they are completely out of theh element. A language
nearly impossible for them to acquire, a rehgion which they consider
heretical, outward coldness covering inward warmth, a perpetual
war between sun and fog, etiquette carried to excess, an insupport
able stiffness and order in the article of the toilet; rebosos un
known, cigaritos considered barbarous. . . . They feel like exiles
from paradise, and live but in hopes of a speedy return.
As to the colleges for young men, although various projects of re
form have been made by enlightened men in regard to them, espe
ciahy by Don Lucas Alaman, and afterwards by Sefior Gutierrez
Estrada, and though to a certain extent many of these plans were
carried into effect, it is a universal source of complaint among the
most distinguished persons in Mexico, that in order to give their
sons a thorough education, it is necessarv to send them abroad.

183

LETTER THE TWENTY-FOURTH.
Revolution in Mexico — Gomez Farias and Genera I Urrea — The Federalists —
The President imprisoned — Firing — Cannon — First News — Escape — Pro
clamation of the Government — Cannonading — Count C  a — Houses
deserted — Countess del V  e — Proclamation of the Federalists — Circular
of the Federalists — Scarcity of Provisions — Bursting of a Shell — Refugees —
Dr. Plan — Young Lady Shot — Gomez Farias — Rumours — Address of Gomez
Farias — Balls and Bullets — Visit from the  Minister — Arrival of Mon
sieur de  Expected Attack — Skirmish — Appearance of the Street —
San Cosme — General  The Count de B  More Rumours —
Suspense — Cannonading — Government Bulletin — Plan of the Rebels de
feated — Proclamation of the President — Of General Valencia — Maternal
Affection — Fresh Reports — Families leaving the City — Letter from Santa
Anna — Bustamante's Letter when imprisoned— Propositions — Refusal — Ta
cubaya — Archbishop — Fresh Proposals — Refusal — Second Letter from Santa
Anna — Government Bulletin — Proclamations — An awkward Mistake — The
Archbishop Visits the President — Conclusion of the Revolution — Govern
ment Newspaper — Circulars. July 15th.
Revolution in Mexico ! or Pronunciamiento, as they cah it. The
storm which has , for some time been brewing, has burst forth at
last. Don Valentin Gomez Farias and the banished General
Urrea have pronounced for federalism. At two this morning,
joined by the fifth battahon and the regiment of comercio, they took
up arms, set off for the palace, surprised the president in his bed, and
took him prisoner. Our first information was a message, arriving on
the part of the government, desiring the attendance of our two old
soldiers, who put on their old uniforms, and set off quite pleased.
Next came our friend Don M  del C  o, who advised us to
haul out the Spanish colours, that they might be in readiness to fly
on the balcony, in case of necessity. Little by little, more Spaniards
arrived with different reports as to the state of things. Some say
that it wih ah end in a few hours — others, that it wih be a long and
bloody contest. . Some are assured that it will merely terminate in a
change of ministry — others, that Santa Anna wih come on directly
and usurp the presidency. At ah events, General Valencia, at the
head of the government troops, is about to attack the pronunciados,
who are in possession of the palace 
The firing has begun ! People come running up the street, lhe
Indians arehurrying back to their villages in double-quick trot. As
we are not in the centre of the city, our position for the present , is
very safe, all the cannon being directed towards the palace. AU the

184 REVOLUTION.
streets near the square are planted with cannon, and it is pretended
that the revolutionary party are giving arms to the leperos. The
cannon are roaring now. Ah along the street people are standing
on the balconies, looking anxiously in the direction of the palace, or
collected in groups before the doors, and the azoteas, which are out
of the line of fire, are covered with men. They are ringing the
tocsin — things seem to be getting serious.
9 o'clock, p. m. — Continuation of firing without interruption. I
have spent the day standing on the balcony, looking at the smoke,
and hstening to the different rumours. Gomez Farias has been
proclaimed president by his party. The streets near the square are
said to be strewed with dead and wounded. There Avas a terrible
thunder-storm this afternoon. Mingled Avith the roaring of the
cannon, it sounded like a strife between heaA-enly and earthly
artillery. We shall not pass a very easy night, especially Avithout
our soldiers. Unfortunately there is a bright moon, so night brings
no interruption to the firing and slaughter.
16th. — Our first news was brought very early this morning by the
wife of one of our soldiers, who came in great despair, to teh us that
both her husband and his comrade are shot, though not killed — that
they were amongst the first Avho fell ; and she came to entreat
C— — n to prevent their being sent to the hospital. It is reported
that Bustamante has escaped, and that he fought his way, sword in
hand, through the soldiers who guarded Mm in his apartment.
Almonte at ah events is at the head of his troops. The balls have
entered many houses in the square. It must be terribly dangerous
for those who hve there, and, amongst others, for our friend Seiior
Tagle, Director of the Monte Pio, and his family.,
They have just brought the government bulletin, which gives the
following statement of the circumstances : — " Yesterday, at midnight,
Urrea, with a handful of troops belonging to the garrison and its
neighbourhood took possession of the National Palace, surprising the
guard, and committing the incivility of imprisoning His Excehency
the President, Don Anastasio Bustamante, the Commander-in-chief,
the Mayor de la Plaza, and other chiefs. Don Gabriel Valencia,
chief of the plana mayor (the staff), General Don Antonio Mozo,
and the Minister of War, Don Juan Nepomuceno Almonte, re-united
in the citadel, prepared to attack the pronunciados, who, arming the
lowest populace, took possession of the towers of the cathedral, and
of some of the highest edifices in the centre of the city. Although
summoned to surrender, at two in the afternoon firing began, and
continued till midnight, recommencing at five in the morning, and
only ceasing at intervals. The colonel of the sixth regiment,
together with a considerable part of his corps, who were in the bar
racks of the palace, escaped and joined the government troops, who
have taken the greatest part of the positions near the square and the
palace.' His Excehency the President, with a part of the troops
which had pronounced in the palace, made his escape on the morning

GOVERNMENT BULLETIN. 185
of the sixteenth, putting himself at the head of the troops who have
remained faithful to their colours, and at night pubhshed the follow
ing proclamation :"
" The President of the Republic to the Mexican Nation.
" Fellow-Citizens : — The seduction which has spread over a very
small part of the people and garrison of this capital; the forgetful-
ness of honor and duty, have caused the defection of a few soldiers,
whose misconduct up to this hour has been throvm into confusion
by the vahant behaviour of the greatest part of the chiefs, officers,
and soldiers, who have intrepidly followed the example of the vahant
general-in-chief of the plana mayor of the army. The government
was not ignorant of the machinations that were carrying on ; their
authors were well known to it, and it foresaw that the gentleness and
clemency which it had hitherto employed in order to disarm them, would
be corresponded to with ingratitude.
" Tlfis line of pohcy has caused the nation to remain headless
(acefala) for some hours, and public tranquillity to be disturbed ;
but my hberty being restored, the dissidents, convinced of the evils
which have been and may be caused by these tumults, depend upon
a reconciliation for their security. The government will remember
that they are misled men, belonging to the great Mexican family,
but not for this will it forget how much they have forfeited their
rights to respect; nor what is due to the great bulk of the nation.
Pubhc tranquillity will be restored in a few hours; the laws will
immediately recover their energy, and the government wih see them
obeyed.
" Anastasio Bustamante.
"Mexico, July 16th, 1840."
A roar of cannon from the Palace, which made the house shake
and the windows rattle, and caused me to throw a blot over the
President's good name, seems the answer to tlfis proclamation.
17th. — The state of things is very bad. Cannon planted ah along
the streets, and soldiers firing indiscriminately on all who pass.
Count C  a slightly wounded, and carried to his country-house
at Tacubaya. Two Spaniards have escaped from their house, into
which the balls were pouring, and have taken refuge here. The E 
family have kept their house, which is in the very centre of the
affray, cannons planted before their door, and ah their windows
aheady smashed. Indeed, nearly all the houses in that quarter are
abandoned. We are living here hke prisoners in a fortress. The
Countess del V  e, whose father was shot in a former revolution,
had just risen this morning, when a sheh entered the wall close
by the side of her bed, and burst in the mattress.
As there are two sides to every story, listen to the proclamation
of the chief of the rebels.

186 COUNTER PROCLAMATION.
" Senor Valentin Gomez Farias to the Mexican People.
"Fellow-Citizens:— We present to the civihzed world two facts,
which, whhe they wih cover with eternal glory the Federal army
and the heroic inhabitants of this capital, wih hand down with exe
cration and infamy, to ah future generations, the name of General
Bustamante; this man without faith, breaking his solemnly-pledged
word, after being put at hberty by an excess of generosity; for
having promised to take immediate steps to bring about a negotia
tion of peace, upon the honourable basis which was proposed to him,
ne is now converted into the chief of an army, the enemy of the
Federalists; and has beheld, with a serene countenance, this beauti
ful capital destroyed, a multitude of famihes drowned in tears, and
the death of many citizens; not only of the combatants, but of those
¦who have taken no part in the struggle. Amongst these must be
counted an unfortunate woman enceinte, who was killed as she was
passing the palace gates under the behef that a parley having come
from his camp, the firing would be suspended, as in fact it was on
our side. This government, informed of the misfortune, sent for the
husband of the deceased, and ordered twenty-five dollars to be given
him; but the unfortunate man, though plunged in grief, declared
that twelve were sufficient to supply his wants. Such was the horror
inspired by the atrocious conduct of the ex-government of Busta
mante, that this sentiment covered up and suffocated ah the others.
" Another fact, of which we shah with difficulty find an example
in history, is the fohowing. The day that the firing began, being
in want of some implements of war, it was necessary to cause an iron
case to be opened, belonging to Don Stanislaus Flores, in which he
had a considerable sum of money in different coin, besides his most
valuable effects. Thus, ah that the government could do, was to
make this known to the owner, Sefior Flores, in order that he might
send a person of confidence to take charge of his interests, making
knoAvn what was wanting, that he might be immediately paid. The
pertinacity of the firing prevented Senor Flores from naming a
commissioner for four days, and then, although the case has been
open, and no one has taken charge of it, the commissioner has made
known officially that nothing is taken from it but the implements
of war which were sent for. Glory in yourselves, Mexicans ! The
most polished nation of the earth, illustrious France, has not pre
sented a similar fact. The Mexicans possess heroic Adrtues, which
wih raise them above ah the nations in the world. This is the only
ambition of your fellow-citizen,
" Valentin Gomez Farias.
" God, Liberty, and Federalism.
"Mexico, July 17th, 1840."
Besides this, a circular has been sent to ah the governors and

CANNONADING. 187
commandants of the different departments, from the "Palace of the
Federal Provisional Government," to this effect : —
The Citizen Jose' Urrea, with the greater part of the garrison of
the capital, and the whole population, pronounced early on the
morning of this day, for the re-establishment of the Federal system,
adopting in the interim the Constitution of 1824, whilst it is re
formed by a Congress which they are about to convoke to that
effect; and I, having been cahed, in order that at this juncture I
should put myself at the head of the government, communicate it to
your Excellency, informing you at the same time, that the object of
the Citizen Urrea, instead of re-estabhshing the Federal system, has
been to re-unite ah the Mexicans, by proclaiming toleration of all
opinions, and respect for the hves, properties, and interests of all.
" God, Liberty, and Federahsm.
" Valentin Gomez Farias.
" National Palace of Mexico, 15th July, 1840."
18th. — There is a great scarcity of provisions in the centre of the
city, as the Indians, who bring in every thing from the country, are
Stopped. We have laid in a good stock of comestibles, though it is
very unlikely that any difficulties wih occur in our direction. While
I am writing, the cannon are roaring almost without interruption,
and the sound is any thing but agreeable, though proving the respect
entertained by Farias for " the hves, properties, and interests of ah."
We see the smoke, but are entirely out of the reach of the fire.
I had just written these words, when the Sefiora  , who livea
opposite, cahed out to me that a shell has just fallen in her garden,
and that her husband had but time to save himself. The cannon
directed against the palace kill people in their beds, in streets entirely
out of that direction, while this bah, intended for the citadel, takes
its flight to San Cosme^ ! Both parties seem to be fighting the city
instead of each other; and this manner of firing from behind para
pets, and from the tops of houses and steeples, is decidedly safer for
the soldiers than for the inhabitants. It seems also a novel plan to
keep up a continual cannonading by night, and to rest during a
great part of the day. One would think that were the guns brought
nearer the palace, the affair would be sooner over.
Late last night, a whole family came here for protection ; the
Sefiora  with  , nurse and baby, &c. She had remained
very quietly in her own house, in spite of broken windows, tih the
bullets whizzed past her baby's bed. This morning, every thing
remains as it was the first day — the President in the citadel, the
rebels in the palace. The government are trying to hold out until
troops arrive from Puebla. Li an interval of firing, the  Secre
tary contrived to make his way here this morning. The Enghsh
Minister's house is also filled with famihes, it being a httle out of
the hne of fire. Those who hve in the Square, and m the Cahe San
Francisco are most exposed, and the poor shopkeepers in the Parian

188 GOMEZ FARIAS.
are in a state of great and natural trepidation. I need not say that
the shops are all shut.
19th. — Dr. Plan, a famous French physician, was shot this
morning, as he was coming out of the palace, and his body has just
been carried past our door into the house opposite!
The Senorita  having imprudently stepped out on her balcony,
her house being in a very exposed street, a pistol ball entered her
side, and passed through her body. She is stih alive, but it seems
impossible that she can recover. The Prior of San Joaquin, riding
by just now, stopt below the windows to teh us that he fears we
shall not remain long here in safety, as the pronunciados have
attacked the Convent of La Concepcion, at the end of the street.
My writing must be very desultory. Impossible to fix one's
attention on any thing. We pass our time on the balconies, hstening
to the thunder of the cannon, looking at the different parties of
troops riding by, receiving visiters, who in the intervals of the firing,
venture out to bring us the last reports — wondering, speculating,
fearing, hoping, and excessively tired of the whole affair.
Gomez Farias, the prime mover of this revolution, is a distin
guished character, one of the notabilities of the country, and has
always maintained the same principles, standing up for " rapid and
radical reform." He is a native of Guadalajara, and his literary
career is said to have been brihiant. He is also said to be a man of
an ardent imagination and great energy. His name has appeared in
every pubhc event. He first aided in the cause of Independence,
then, when deputy for Zacatecas, showed much zeal in favour of
Yturbide — was afterwards a Avarm partisan of the federal cause —
contributed to the election of General Victoria ; afterwards to that
of Pedraza — took an active part in the political changes of '33 and
'34 ; detests the Spaniards, and during his presidency endeavoured
to abolish the privileges of the clergy and troops— suppressed
monastic institutions— granted absolute liberty of opinion — abolished
the laws against the hberty of the press — created many literary insti
tutions; and whatever were his pohtical errors, and the ruthlessness
with which in the name of hberty and reform he marched to the
attainment of his object, without respect for the most sacred things,
he is generahy allowed to be a man of integrity, and even by his
enemies, an enthusiast, who deceives himself as much as others. Now
in the hopes of obtaining some uncertain and visionary good, and
even while declaring his horror of civil war and bloodshed, he has
risen in rebellion against the actual government, and is the cause of
the cruel war now raging, not in the open fields or even in the
scattered suburbs, but in the very heart of a populous city.
This morning ah manner of opinions are afloat. Some believe
that Santa Anna has started from his retreat at Manga de Clavo,
and wih arrive to-day — wih himself swallow the disputed oyster,
(the presidential chair) and give each of the combatants a shell a-
piece ; some that a fresh supply of troops for the government will

ADDRESS OF FARIAS. 189
arrive to-day, and others that the rebels must eventually triumph.
Among the reports which I trust may be classed as doubtful,
is, that General Urrea has issued a proclamation, promising three
hours pillage to all who join him. Then will be the time for testing
the virtues of all diplomatic drapeaux. In the midst of all, here
comes another.
" Address of His Excellency, Senor Don Valentin Gomez Farias,
charged provisionally .with the government of Mexico, and of the
General-in- Chief of the Federal army, to the troops under his
command.
. "Companions in arms: No one has ever resisted a people who
fight for their hberty and who defend their sacred rights. Your
heroic endeavours have already reduced our unjust aggressors
almost to complete nulhty. Without infantry to cover their para
pets, without artillery to fire their pieces, without money, without
credit, and without support, they aheady make their last useless
efforts. On our side, on the contrary, all is in abundance (sobra),
men, arms, ammunition, and money, and above all, the invincible
support of opinion; — while the parties which adhere to our pronun-
ciamento in all the cities out of the capital, and the assistance which
within this very city is given by every class of society to those who
are fighting for the rights of the people, offer guarantees which they
wih strictly fulfil to all the inhabitants of the country, natives as
weh as foreigners. Our enemies, in the dehrium of their impotence,
have had recourse to their favourite weapon, calumny. In a com
munication, directed to us, they have had the audacity to accuse
you of having attacked some property. Miserable wretches ! No
—the soldiers of the people are not robbers; the cause of hberty is
very noble, and its defence will not be stained by a degrading
action. This is the answer given to your calumniators by your
chiefs, who are as much interested in your reputation as in their
own. Soldiers of the people ! let valour, as well as all other civic
virtues, shine in your conduct, that you may never dim the renown
of vahant soldiers and of good citizens.
" Valentin Gomez Farias.
" Jos6 Urrea."
We hear 'that two shells have fahen into the house of Sefior  ,

who has a pretty wife and a number of children, and that his
azotea is occupied by the federalist troops. Fortunately, these
grenades burst in the patio of his house, and no one was in
jured. The chief danger for those who are not actually engaged
in this affair, is from these buhets and shells, which come rattling
into all the houses. We have messages from various people whom
we invited to come here . for safety, that they would gladly accept
our offer, but are unwilling to leave their houses exposed to pillage,

190 FAMILIES LEAVING THE CITY.
and do not dare to pass through the streets. So our numbers have
not increased as yet.
You may suppose, that although this is Sunday, there is no mass
in the churches. The Prior of San Fernando, who has just sent us
round some colossal cauliflowers and other fine vegetables from his
garden, permits us to come to his convent for safety, should any
thing occur here  I am afraid he would lodge the woman
kind in some outhouse.
I had written thus far, when we received a visit from the Baron
de  ,  Mnister, who, living in a very exposed situation,
near the palace, requests us to receive his Secretary of Legation,
M. de  , who is dangerously ih of typhus fever, as the doctors,
no doubt warned by the fate of poor Dr. Plan, fear to pass into that
street which is blocked up by troops and cannon. Some people
fear a universal sacking of the city, especially in the event of the
triumph of the federalist party. The ministers seem to have great
confidence in their flags — but I cannot help thinking that a party
of armed leperos would be no respecters of persons or privileges !
As yet our position continues very safe. We have the Alameda
between us and the troops; the palace, the square, and the principal
streets being on the other side of the Alameda; and this street, a
branch of the great Cahe de Tacuba, stretching out beyond it. I
write more to occupy my thoughts than in hopes of interesting you;
for I am afraid that you wih almost be tired of this revolutionary
letter. As a clever Mexican, the Marquis of  , says — " some
years ago we gave forth cries (gritos) — that was in the infancy of
our independence — now we begin to pronounce (pronuncianos).
Heaven knows when we shall be old enough to speak plain, so that
people may know what we mean !"
Sunday Evening. — Monsieur de  has arrived, and is not
worse. We have unexpectedly had twelve persons to dinner to
day. The news to-night is, that the government troops have
arrived, and that a great attack will be made by them to-morrow
on the rebels in the palace, which will probably bring matters to a
conclusion. Some of our guests are sitting up, and others lying
down on the sofa without undressing. I prefer being comfortable,
so goodnight.
20th. — We were astonished this morning at the general tran
quillity, and concluded that, instead of having attacked the rebels,
the government was holding a parley with them, but a note from
the Enghsh minister informs us that a skirmish has taken place
between the two parties at one of the gates of the city, in which
the government party has triumphed. So far the news is good.
Our street has a most picturesque and hvely appearance this
morning. It is crowded with Indians from the country, bringing
in their fruit and vegetables for sale, and estabhshing a temporary
market in front of the church of San Fernando. Innumerable
carriages, drawn by mules, are passing along, packed inside and out,

COUNT DE B  . 191
fuh of famihes hurrying to the country with their children and
moveables. Those who are poorer, are making their way on foot —
men and women carrying mattrasses, and little cliildren following
with baskets and bird-cages — carts are passing, loaded with chairs
and tables and beds, and all manner of old furniture, uprooted for
the first time no doubt since many years — all are taking advantage
of this temporary cessation of firing to make their escape. Our
stables are fuh of mules and horses sent us by our friends in the
centre of the city, where ah supphes of water are cut off. Another
physician, a Spaniard, has just been shot !
Every room at San Cosme and in ah the suburbs is taken. In
some rooms are numbers of people, obhged to sleep upon mats, too
glad to have escaped from the danger to care for any inconvenience.
A quantity of plate and money and diamonds were sent here this
morning, which we have been hiding in different parts of the house;
but they say that in cases of pillage the plunderers always search the
most impossible places, pulling up the boards, brick floors, &c, rip
ping up the mattresses, and so on; so I beheve there is no use in
concealing any thing. Near us hves a celebrated general, on whose
pohtical opinions there seems much doubt, as he has joined neither
party, and. has become invisible ever since this affair commenced.
He is a showy, handsome man, with a good deal of superficial in
struction, and exceedingly vain of his personal advantages. I am
quite sure that, having allowed him to be a fine-looking man, he
would forgive me for saying that his character is frivolous, and that
his principles, both moral and pohtical, are governed entirely by
that which best suits his own advantage. . . .
The Count de B  , secretary to. the French Legation, mounted
his horse last evening, and, hke a true young Frenchman, set off
to pay a visit to a pretty girl of his acquaintance, passing through
the most dangerous streets, and particularly conspicuous by his sin
gular dress, good looks, and moustaches. He had not gone far
before he was surrounded by some dozen of leperos with knives,
who would, no doubt, have robbed and dispatched him, but that,
in tearing off his sarape, they discovered his uniform, and net being
very skilled in mihtary accoutrements, concluded him to be an officer
on the part of the government. They being on the federahst side,
hurried with their prize to the palace, where he was thrown into
prison, and obhged to remain until some of the officers came to see
the prisoner, and recognised him, much to their astonishment
We are now going to dine with what appetite we may, which is
generahy pretty good.
Ten o'clock, p. M. — We ventured out after dinner to_ take a turn
in the direction opposite the city, and met various parties of ladies,
who, as they cannot use theh carriages at present, were thankful to
escape from their temporary and crowded dwellings, and were actu
ally taking exercise on foot; when we were encountered by people
fuh of the intelligence that the great attack on the palace is to be

192 SKIRMISH.
made this evening, and were advised to hurry home. We were also
assured that a party of leperos, headed by their long-bearded captain,
an old robber of the name of Castro, had passed the night before
our door. Before we could reach home the firing began, and we
have passed several hours in a state of great suspense, amidst the
roaring of the cannon, the shouting of the troops, the occasional
cries of those who are wounded, and, to make every thing appear
more lugubrious, the most awful storm of thunder and rain I almost
ever heard. The Sefiora de  's brother is a captain in the
government service, and he and his regiment have distinguished
themselves very much during these last few days ; consequently she
is dreadfully uneasy to-night.
The gentlemen seem inchned to pass the night in talking. We
think of lying down, and sleeping if we can. I hope nothing will
happen in the night, for every thing seems worse in the darkness
and consequent confusion.
21st. — After passing ,a sleepless night, listening to the roaring of
cannon, and figuring to ourselves the devastation that must have
taken place,' we find to our amazement that nothing decisive has
occurred. The noise last night was mere skirmishing, and hah the
cannons were fired in the air. In the darkness there was no mark.
But though the loss on either side is so much less than might have
been expected, the rebels in the palace cannot be very comfortable,
for they say that the air is infected by the number of unburied dead
bodies lying there ; indeed there are many lying unburied on the
streets, which is enough to raise a fever, to add to the calamitous
state of things.
The government bulletin of to-day expresses the regret of the
supreme magistrate at seeing his hopes of restoring peace frustrated,
and publishes the assurances of fidelity which they have received
from all the departments, especiahy from Puebla, Queretaro, and
Vera Cruz, in spite of the extraordinary despatches which had there
been received from Farias, desiring them to recognise Urrea as
minister of war, and Don Manuel Crecencio Rejon as minister of
the interior; " which communications," says the commandant of
Queretaro, produced in my soul only indignation and contempt
towards their miserable authors."
The account of the yesterday's affair is as follows. " Thepronun-
ciados in the palace, knowing that the infantry which was to come
from Puebla to the assistance of the government, was expected to
arrive yesterday, endeavoured to surprise it near the gate of Saint
Lazarus, with a column of infantry of two hundred in number, and
some cavalry; but the brave Colonel Torrejon, with eighty dra
goons, beat them completely, killing, wounding, and taking many
prisoners, and pursuing them as far as the Archbishop's palace: The
supreme government, appreciating the distinguished services and
brilfiant conduct of the aforesaid colonel, have given him the rank
of general of brigade."

GENERAL VALENCIA'S DISCOURSE. 193
The president in to-day's proclamation, after declaring that " the '
beautiful capital of the republic is the theatre of war," says " that
nothing but consideration for the hves and properties of the inha
bitants has been able to restrain the enthusiasm of the soldiers of the
nation, and to prevent them from putting forth their whole force to
dislodge the rebels from the different points of which they have
possessed themselves." The president adds, " that this revolt is the
more inexcusable, as his administration has always been gentle and
moderate; that he has economized the pubhc treasure, respected
the laws, and that citizens of whatever opinion had always en
joyed perfect tranquillity under his rule — that constitutional re
forms were about being reahzed, as well as the hopes of forming by
them a bond of union between ah Mexicans. He concludes by
reproaching those revolutionary men who thus cause the shedding
of so much innocent blood.
The commander-in-chief, General Valencia, writing perhaps
under some inspiring influence, is more figurative in his discourse.
" Soldiers of Liberty!" he exclaims; " Anarchy put out its head,
and your arms drowned it in a moment." This would have been a
finer figure in the days of the great lakes. And again he exclaims
— " Mexicans! my heart feels itself wounded by the deepest grief,
and all humanity shudders in contemplating the unsoundable chaos
of evils in which the authors of this rebehion have sunk the in
cautious men whom they have seduced, in order to form with their
dead bodies the bloody ladder which was to raise them to their
aggrandizement ! Aheady the Mexican people begin to gather the
hitter fruits Avith which these men who blazon forth their humanity
and philanthropy have always allured them, feeding themselves on
the blood of their brothers, and striking up songs to the sad mea
sure of sobs and weeping !" These tropes are very striking. All
is brought before us as in a picture. We see anarchy raising his
rascally head above the water (most hkely adorned with a hberty
cap), and the brave soldiers instantly driving it down again. We
behold Gomez Farias and Urrea rushing up a ladder of dead bodies.
And then the Lucrezia Borgia kind of scene that fohows ! — alluring
theh victims Avith bitter fruit (perhaps with sour grapes), drinking
blood, and singing horridly out of tune to a running bass of sobs !
The teeth of humanity are set on edge only by reading it. Well
may his Excellency add — " I present them to the nations of the
world as an inimitable model of ferocity and barbarity !"
This morning General  sent a few lines from the citadel,
where he and the president are, in which he speaks with confidence
of speedily putting down the rebels. C  n returned many af
fectionate messages, accompanied by a supply of cigars. They say
that i the greatest possible bravery is shown by the boys of the
Mihtary College, who are very fine little fellows, and all up in
arms on the side of the government. A strong instance of maternal
affection and courage was shown by the Sefiora G  this morn-
o

194 PROCLAMATION.
ing. Having received various reports concerning her son, who
belongs to this college; first that he was wounded; then that the
wound was severe; then that it was shght — and being naturally
extremely uneasy about him, she set off alone, and on foot, at five
o'clock in the morning, without mentioning her intention to any
one, carrying Avith her a basket of proAdsions; passed across the
square, and through all the streets planted Avith cannon, made her
way through ah the troops into the citadel ; had the satisfaction of
finding her son in perfect health, and returned home, just as her
husband and family had become aware of her absence.
General Valencia is said to have a large party amongst the sol
diers, who are in favour of his being named president. It is said that
he was seen riding up and down in the lines in a most spirited man
ner, and rather unsteady in his saddle. Some rumours there are
that Santa Anna has arrived at Perote ; but, as he travels in a litter,
he cannot be here for some days, even should this be true. There
seems no particular reason to beheve that this will end soon, and
we must remain shut up here as patiently as we can. In the inter
vals of firing the gentlemen go out, but they wih not hear of our
doing so, except sometimes for a few minutes in the evening, and
then either firing or thunder sends us back. Various people, and
especially the Countess C  a, have invited us to their country
places; but, besides that we are in the safest part of the city, and have
several guests, C  n does not think it right for him to leave
Mexico. They say that house-rents wih rise hereabouts, on ac
count of the advantages of the locale in cases of this sort.
Amongst other announcements, the government have pubhshed,
that the rebels have demanded that the jewels, together with the ser-
ifice of gold and silver belonging to the Holy Cathedral Church, shall
be given up to them, and threaten to seize the whole by force, should
theh demand not be acceded to within two hours. "It is very
probable that they wih do so," adds the bulletin ; thus adding a
new crime to ah they have committed."
It is now evening, and again they announce an attack upon the
palace, but I do not beheve them, and listen to the cannon with
tolerable tranquility. Ah day famihes continue to pass by, leav
ing Mexico. The poor shopkeepers are to be pitied. Besides
the total cessation of trade, one at least has been shot, and others
plundered. A truce of two hours was granted this afternoon, to
bury the dead, who were carried out of the palace. Two of our
colleagues ventured here this morning.
22d. — The government bulletin of this morning contains a
letter from Santa Anna, dated Mango de Clavo, 19th of July,
informing the president, with every expression of loyalty and
attachment to the government, that according to his desire he will
set off this morning in the direction of Perote, " at the head of
a respectable division." Various other assurances of fidelity from
Victoria, from Gahndo, &c, are inserted, Avith the remark that

PRESIDENT'S LETTER. 195
the Mexican pubhc wih thus see the uniformity and decision of the
whole republic in favour of order, and especially will receive in
the communication of his Excehency, General Santa Anna, an
equivocal proof of this unity of sentiment, notwithstanding the
assurances given by the rebels to the people, that Santa Anna
would either assist them, or would take no part at ah in the affair.
It must be confessed, however, that his Excehency is rather a dan
gerous umpire.
The Governor Vieyra pubhshed a proclamation to-day, declar
ing " Mexico in a state of siege." It seems to me that we knew
that aheady ! Upon the whole, things are going on well for the
government. Parties of pronunciados have been put down in
various places. The wounded on both sides have been carried to
the hospital of San Andres. A battery is now planted against the
palace, in the Cahe de Plateros, where they are at least near enough
to do more execution than before.
One circumstance worthy of notice has been pubhshed to-day.
The rebels, as you may recohect, declared that they had permitted
the president to leave the palace, on condition of his taking con
ciliatory measures, and that he had agreed to favour their preten
sions. Now here is Bustamante's own letter, written in the palace,
when surrounded by his enemies ; a proof, if any were wanting, of
his exceeding personal bravery, and perfect coolness in the midst of
danger. There is something rather Roman in these few hnes :
" Ministers, — I protest that I find myseh without hberty and
without defence, the guards of the palace haAang abandoned me.
Under these circumstances, let no order of mine, which is contrary
to the duties of the post I occupy, be obeyed. Since, although I
am resolved to die before faihng in my obhgations, it will not be
difficult to falsify my signature. Let this be made known by you
to the Congress, and to those generals and chiefs who preserve sen
timents of honour and fidelity.
" National Palace, July 15th 1840." Anastasio Bustamante."
The fohowing propositions are made to the government by the
rebels :
" Article 1st. It not having been the intention of the citizen
Jose Urrea, and of the troops under his command, to attack in
any way the person of the president of the republic, General
Anastasio Bustamante, he is replaced in the exercise of his func
tions. " 2d. Using his faculties as president of the repubhc, he wih
cause the firing to cease on the part of the troops opposed to the
citizen Urrea ; who on his side will do the same.
" 3d. The president shall organize a ministry deserving of public
confidence, and shall promise to re-estabhsh the observance of the
O 2

196 NEW PROPOSITIONS.
constitution of 1824, convoking a Congress immediately, for the
express purpose of reform.
' " 4th. Upon these foundations, peace and order shah be re-es
tablished, and no one shah be molested for the opinions which he
has manifested, or for the principles he may have supported, all
who are in prison for pohtical opinions being set at hberty."
Almonte, in the name of the president, rejected these condi
tions, but offered to spare the hves of the pronunciados, in case
they should surrender within twenty-four hours. The chiefs of
the opposite party hereupon declared the door shut to all recon
cilement, but requested a suspension of hostilities, which was
granted. A  is going to drive me out during this suspension, in an
open cab, to call on the C  a family. The  s have left their
house, their position having become too dangerous. Another let
ter from General Almonte this morning. Nothing decisive. The
streets continue blocked up with cannon, the roofs of the houses
and churches are covered with troops, the shops remain closed, and
the streets deserted. People are paying ounces for the least morsel
of room in the suburbs, on the San Cosme side of the city.
23d. — Yesterday, the archbishop hrvited the chiefs of the pro
nunciados to a conference in his Archiepiscopal Palace, in order
that he might endeavour, in his apostolical character, to check the
effusion of blood. The conference took place, and the rebels re
quested a suspension of hostilities, whilst the prelate should com
municate its results to the president, which was granted by the
general-in-chief. But the pronunciados broke the truce, and endea
voured to surprise the president and Almonte in the citadel, passing
over the parapets in the Calle de Monterilla. They were repulsed
with slaughter, and a fierce cannonading was kept up ah night. They
have now requested a parley, which is granted them. . . .
In the midst of ah, there is a communication from the Governor
of Morelia, giving an account of the routing of a band of robbers
who had attacked an hacienda.
We went to Tacubaya, and met with no other danger but that of
being drenched wet; as a daily watering of the earth, short but
severe, now- takes place regularly. The new propositions of the
pronunciados are these :
1st. " The forces of both armies shall retire to occupy places out
of the capital.
2d. " Both the belhgerent parties shall agree that the constitutional
laws of 1836 shall remain without force.
3d. " A convention shah be convoked, establishing the new con
stitution, upon the basis fixed in the Constitutive Act, which .will
begin to be in force directly.
4th. " The elections of the members of the convention, wih be
verified according to the laws by which the deputies of the Consti
tuent Congress were directed.

GOVERNMENT BULLETIN. 197
5th. " His actual Excehency, the President, will form a provisional
government, he being the chief, until the foregoing articles begin to
take effect.
6th. " No one shall be molested for pohtical opinions manifested
since the year '21 until now: consequently the persons, employ
ments and properties of all who have taken part in this or in the
•past revolutions shall be respected.
7th. " That the first article may take effect, the government will
facihtate all that is necessary to both parties."
The government have refused these second propositions ; and at
the same time make known to the Mexican world that various de
serters from the opposite party assure them, that the pronunciados,
including the principal chiefs, are occupied in destroying every
thing within the palace — that the general archives and those. of the
ministers, are torn in pieces, and that the despatches are taken to
make cartouches, and so on. They end by accusing them of being
ah united with the most noted robbers and public highwaymen,
such as a Ricardo Teo, a Jose Polvorilla, a Roman Chavez, a Juan
Vega, a Rosas, a Garcilazo, and others. I put down the names of
these Mexican Dick Turpins and Paul Chffords, in case we should
meet them some beau jour.
More forces have arrived frofn Puebla and Toluca. Santa Anna
is expected to reach Puebla to-night, and again General Valencia
holds out an invitation to repentance to the " deceived men in the
palace." 25th. — A letter is pubhshed to-day from Santa Anna to General
Victoria, assuring him that whatever personal considerations might
have detained him in his country-seat, he accepts Avith pleasure the
command of the division going to Perote, and will in this, as in all
things, obey the orders of the supreme government. Firing, with
short intervals, continued all yesterday, during the night, and this
morning. Two mortars are placed in front of the old Acordada, in
the direction of the palace, but as yet they have not been used.
There are a crowd of people examining them.
Things remain nearly in the same position as before, except that
there are more deserters from the revolted party. A proclamation
was issued by Urrea, accusing the government of all the evils that
afflict the city, and of all the bloodshed caused by this civil war.
Amongst other things, they complain of the death of Dr. Plan,
who was shot in the Cahe del Seminario, and, according to them,
by the government troops. General Valencia answers this time
without figures, and with good reason, that the responsibility of
these misfortunes must be with those who have provoked the war.
In the buhetin of to-day, the government praise their ovm mode
ration in having taken off the duties from all provisions entering the
capital, in order that the price might not become too high, an advan
tage in which the pronunciados themselves participate — mention their
exertions to supply the city with water, and their permission given

198 GENERAL URREA.
to the pronunciados to send their wounded to the hospital of San
Andres. They deny that the government has any share in the
evils that afflict the whole population, their endeavour having ever
been to preserve tranquilhty and order; " but when a handful of
factious men have taken possession of part of the city, no choice is
left them but to besiege and combat them until they surrender, and
not to abandon the peaceful citizens to pillage and vengeance." They
declare that they might aheady have subdued them, and are only held
back by the fear of involving in their ruin the number of innocent
persons who occupy the circumjacent houses. The pohcy of this
moderation seems doubtful, but the sincerity of the president is un
impeachable. They continue to observe upon the absurdity of this
handful of men pretending to impose laws upon the whole republic,
when already the body of the nation have given unequivocal proofs
that they have no desire that the questions relative to their pohtical
institutions should be decided by the force of arms.
While the pronunciados declare on their side that " information
of pronunciamientos everywhere" has been received by them ; the
government remarks that eleven days have now elapsed, which has
given full time to ah the departments to declare themselves in favour
of those who call themselves their representatives ; but on the con
trary, nothing has been received but assurances of fidelity, and of
support to the government cause. I beheve that the Enghsh packet
wih be detained till the conclusion of this affair, but should it not
be so, you need not feel any uneasiness in regard to us. Our house
is fuh of people, money, jewels, and plate — our stables of horses and
mules. Amongst the diamonds are those of the Sefiora L  ,
which are very fine, and there are gold rouleaus enough to set up a
bank at San Agustin. Santa Anna seems in no hurry to arrive.
People expect him to-morrow, but perhaps he thinks the hour has
not come for him.
26th. — The proclamation of the Governor of the department of
Jahsco is published to-day, in which he observes : " The nation
cannot forget that this Urrea, who has brought so many evils upon
his country, this faithful friend of Mr. Carlos Baudin, and of the
French squadron which invaded our territory, for whom he procured
ah the fresh provisions which they required, is the same man who
now escapes from prison, to figure at the head of a tumultuous crowd,
whose first steps were marked by the capture of his Excehency the
President." Firing continues, but without any decided result. It
is a sound that one does not learn to hear with indifference. There
seems httle doubt that ultimately the government wih gain the day,
but the country wih no doubt remain for some time in a melancholy
State of disorder. Bihs are fastened to-day on the corners of the
streets, forbidding ah ingress or egress through the military hnes,
from six in the evening tih eight in the morning. Gentlemen who
Hve near us now venture in towards evening, to talk politics or play
at whist; but generahy, in the middle of a game, some report is

CONCLUSION. 199
brought in, which drives them back to their houses and famihes
with ah possible haste. Sefior  , a young Spaniard who is living
with us, returning here late last night, was challenged by the senti
nels at the corner of the street, with the usual " Quien viva?" to
which, being in a brown study, he mechanicahy rephed, " Spain!"
Fortunately, the officer on duty was a man of common sense and
humanity, and instead of firing, warned him to take better care for
the future.
Last night the archbishop paid a visit to the president, in the
convent of San Agustin, to intercede in favour of the pronunciados.
The mortars have not yet played against the palace, owing, it is
eaid, to the desire of the general-in-chief to avoid the further effu
sion of blood.
The tranquilhty of the sovereign people during all this period, is
astonishing. In what other city in the world would they not have
taken part with one or other side? Shops shut, workmen out of
employment, thousands of idle people, subsisting, Heaven only knows
how, yet no riot, no confusion, apparently no impatience. Groups
of people collect on the streets, or stand talking before their doors,
and speculate upon probabihties, but await the decision of their mi
litary chiefs, as if it were a judgment from Heaven, from which it
were both useless and impious to appeal.
27th. — " Long hve the Mexican Republic ! Long live the Su
preme Government !" Thus begins the government bulletin of to
day, to which I say Amen ! with ah my heart, since it ushers in the
news of the termination of the .revolution. And what particularly
attracts my attention is, that instead of the usual stamp, the eagle,
serpent, and nopal, we have to-day, a shaggy pony, flying as never did
mortal horse before, his tail and mane in a most violent state of ex
citement, his four short legs ah in the ah at once, and on his back a
man in a jockey-cap, furiously blowing a trumpet, from which issues
a white flag, on which is printed " News!" in English! and appa
rently in the act of springing over a milestone, on which is inscribed,
also in Enghsh—" 100 to New York!"
" We have," says the government, " the grateful satisfaction of
announcing, that the revolution of this capital has terminated happily.
The rebellious troops having offered, in the night, to lay down arms
upon certain conditions, his Excellency the Commander-in-chief,
has accepted their proposals with convenient modifications, which wih
be verified to-day; the empire of laAvs, order, tranquilhty, and ah
other social guarantees being thus re-established," &c. Cuevas,
Minister of the Interior, pubhshes a Circular addressed to the Go
vernors of the Departments to the same effect, adding, that " in con
sideration of the inhabitants and properties which required the prompt
termination of this disastrous revolution, the guarantees of personal
safety sohcited by the rebels have been granted, but none of their
pretensions have been acceded to ; the conspiracy of the fifteenth
having thus had no other effect but to make manifest the general

200 FEDERAL PLAN.
wish and opinion in favour of the government, laws and legitimate
authorities." A similar circular is pubhshed by General Almonte.
Having arrived at this satisfactory conclusion, which must be as
agreeable to you as it is to us, I shah close this long letter, merely
observing, in apology, that as Madame de Stael said, in answer to
the remark, that " Women have nothing to do with politics ;"-^-
" That may be, but when a woman's head is about to be cut off, it
is natural she should ask why ?" so it appears to me , that when bullets
are whizzing about our ears, and shehs falhng within a few yards of
us, it ought to be considered extremely natural, and quite feminine, to
inquire into the cause of such phenomena.

LETTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH.
Plan of the Federalists— Letter from Farias— Signing of Articles— Dispersion
of the " Pronunciados" — Conditions — Orders of General Valencia — Of the
Governor — Address of General Valencia — Departure of our Guests — The
Cosmopolita — State of the Palace and Streets — Bulletin of the Firing — Inte
rior of. Houses — Escape of Families — Conduct of the Troops — Countess
del V  e — Santa Anna — Congress — Anecdote — Discussion in Congress-
Leprosy. 28th July.
To-DAT is pubhshed the plan which was formed by the federahsts
for the " pohtical regeneration of the republic." They observe, that
it is six years since the federal plan, adopted freely by the nation in
1824, was replaced by a system which monopohzes all advantages in
favour of a few ; that evils had now arrived at that height, in which
the endeavours of a fevr men, howeA-er illustrious, could have no
effect in remedying them ; rendering it necessary for all Mexicans to
unite in one combined and energetic force to better their situation;
that salvation can only be hoped for from the nation itself, &c. They
then proceed to lay their plan, consisting of ten^articles, before the
pubhc. Jft
The first restores the constitution of '24, the -national interests to
be reformed by a congress, composed of four deputies from each
state. By the second, the reformed constitution is to be submitted
to the legislatures of the states for approbation. By the third, they
engage to respect the Catholic rehgion, the form of popular govern
ment, representative and federal, the division of powers, pohtical
hberty of the press, the organization of a military and naval force,

CAPITULATION. 201
and the equahty of rights between ah the inhabitants of the nation.
By the fourth article, a provisional government is to be estabhshed
in the capital, whose functions are to be hmited exclusively to the
direction of the external relations of the republic. By the fifth, this
provisional government is to be vested in a Mexican, reuniting the
requisites for this employment, as estabhshed in the constitution of
'24. By the sixth, the republic promises to give back the ten per
cent, added to the duties of consumption, to those who have paid it
until now. By the seventh, in eight months after the triumph of the
present revolution, all interior custom-houses are to be suppressed,
and henceforth no contributions shall be imposed upon the internal
circulation of goods, whether foreign or domestic. By the eighth,
they promise to confirm all the civil and military employments of
those Avho do not oppose this political regeneration. By the ninth,
the army is to be paid with great punctuality. By the tenth, a
general amnesty is promised to ah who have committed pohtical
errors since the Independence ; and the names of Farias and Urrea
are followed by a goodly hst of Major-Generals, Colonels, &c.
There is also pubhshed a letter from Farias, indignantly denying
the report of the federal party's having threatened to seize the
Cathedral jewels and plate; accompanied by one from the arch
bishop himself, not only denying the circumstance, but expressing
his satisfaction with the conduct of the federahst party in regard to
all the convents which they had occupied, and the respect which
they had shown towards all things pertaining to the church.
On the night of the twenty-sixth, the articles of capitulation were
signed on both sides; a letter from General Andrade having been
received by General Valencia, to the effect that as General Urrea
had abandoned the command of the troops and left it in his hands,
he, in the name of the other chiefs and officers, was ready to ratify
the conditions stipulated for by them the preceding night. This
was at three in the morning ; and about eight o'clock, the capitula
tion was announced to the pronunciados in the different positions
occupied by them ; and they began to disperse in different directions,
in groups of about a hundred, crying, " Viva la Federacion !" At
a quarter before two o'clock, General Manuel Andrade marched out,
with all the honours of war, to Tlanapantla, followed by the pronun
ciados of the palace.
This morning, at eleven, Te Deum was sung in the cathedral,
there being present, the archbishop, the president, and all the au
thorities. The bells, Jfich have preserved an ominous silence during
these events, are noWfJ£ging forth in a confusion of tongues. The
palace being crippled with bahs, and in a state of utter confusion,
the President and his ministers occupy cells in the convent of San
Agustin. The Federalists have marched out upon the following conditions :
1st, Their hves, persons, employments, and properties are to be in
violably preserved. 2d, General Valencia engages to interpose his

202 GOVERNOR'S ORDERS.
influence with the government by ah legal means, that they may re
quest the chambers to proceed to reform the constitution. 3d, All
pohtical events, which have occurred since the fifteenth, up to this
date, are to be totahy forgotten, the forces who adhered to the plan
of the fifteenth being included in this agreement. _ 4th, A passport
out of the repubhc is to be given to whatever individual, compre
hended in this agreement, may solicit it. 5th, The troops of the
pronunciados are to proceed to wherever General Valencia orders
them, commanded by one of their own captains, whom he shah
point out, and who must answer for any disorders they may commit.
6th, General Valencia, and ah the other generals of fiis army, must
promise on their honour, before the whole world, to keep this treaty,
and see to its exact accomplishment. 7th, It only apphes to Mexi
cans. 8th, Whenever it is ratified by the chiefs of both parties, it
is to be punctually fulfilled, hostilities being suspended unth six in
the morning of the twenty-seventh, which gives time to ratify the
conditions. The President may exclaim, " One such victory more, and I am
undone !" Orders are issued by General Valencia to the effect, that
until the Federahst troops have marched out of the city, no group
passing five in number wih be permitted in the streets ; that until
then, there is to be no trading through the streets; that at three
o'clock the eating-houses may be thrown open, but not the taverns
tih the next day; and that the police and alcaldes of the different
wards are held responsible for the accomplishment of these orders,
and may make use of armed force to preserve order.
The Governor enforces these orders with additions. People
must turn in at nine o'clock, or give an account of themselves —
must give up all their guns, carbines, &c, to the alcalde, under a
heavy penalty ; and none, excepting military men, may go on
horseback from five in the evening until six in the morning, during
five days.
General Valencia makes a pathetic address to his soldiers, and
foretels that henceforth all mothers, wives, and old men, will point
them out as they pass, saying, " There go our dehverers !" and adds
— "I grow proud in speaking to you." "Inhabitants of this
beautiful capital!" he says again, " the aurora of the 15th of July
was very different from that of the 27th; that prognosticated
destruction, this rises announcing happiness. Never again will you
hear the crash of cannon, but to celebrate the triumphs of your country,
or to solemnize your civic functions. " May your words be prophetic,
and especially may you yourself assist in their accomplishment.
29th. — Our guests have left us, all but Monsieur  , who,
although recovered, cannot yet be moved. Ah money, plate, and
jewels in our charge, are restored to their rightful owners; and. the
Spanish colours, which have never been hoisted, return to their
former obscurity. I re-open the piano, uncover and tune the harp,
and as we have been almost entirely shut up dming thirteen days of

THE PALACE. 203
heavenly weather, feel rejoiced at the prospect of getting out again.
As yet, I have not seen the state of things in the city, but the
" Cosmopohte" of to-day says — " I should wish to have the pen of
Jeremiah, to describe the desolation and calamities of this city,
which has been the mistress of the new world. In the days of
mourning that have passed, we have not been able to fix our eyes on
any part of it where we have not encountered desolation, weeping,
and death. The palace has become a sieve, and the southern
bulwark is destroyed; that part of the portal which looks towards
the Monterilla is ruined; the finest buildings in the centre have
suffered a great deal; innumerable houses at great distances from it
have been also much injured by stray balls. Persons of ah ages,
classes, and conditions, who interfered in nothing, have been kihed,
not only in the streets, but even in their own apartments. The balls
crossed each other in every direction, and the risk has been universal.
The city has been in the dark during these days, without patrol or
watch; and many malefactors have taken advantage of this oppor
tunity to use the murderous poniard without risk, and with the •
utmost perfidy. At the break of day horrible spectacles were seen,
of groups of dogs disputing the remains of a man, a woman, and a
child." The " Cosmopohte" goes on to insist upon the necessity of
forming a new ministry and of a reform in the two houses.
August 1st. — Have just come in from a drive through the city.
The palace and houses near it are certainly in a melancholy condition.
The palace, with its innumerable smashed windows and battered
wahs, looks as if it had become stone bhnd in consequence of having
the smallpox. Broken windows and wahs fuh of holes characterize
ah the streets in that direction, yet there is less real damage done
than might have been expected, after such a furious firing and can
nonading. To read the accounts pubhshed, and of the truth of which we had
auricular demonstration, one would have expected to find half the
city in ruins. Here is the sum total of the firing, as pubhshed: —
" On the 15th, firing from two o'clock tih the next day. On the
16th, continual firing tih one o'clock. Suspension tih four o'clock.
Firing from that hour, without intermission, tih the fohowing day.
17th, firing from morning tih night. 18th, firing from before day
break till the evening. 19th, continual firing. Constant emigration
of famihes these last four days. 20th, continual firing all day.
Skirmish at the gate of San Lazaro. 21st, firing continued, though
less hotly, but in the night with more vigour than ever. 22d, day
of the Junta in the archbishop's palace. Firing began at eleven at
night, and lasted tih morning. 23d, firing tih mid-day. Parley.
24th, formidable firing, terrible attack, and firing tih morning.
25th, firing tih the evening. 26th, firing from six in the morning
till two o'clock. Capitulation that night."
As " every bullet has its billet," they must ah have lodged some
where. Of course, nothing else is talked of as yet, and every one

204 LETTER FROM SANTA ANNA.
has his own personal experiences to recount. Some houses have
become nearly uninhabitable — glass, pictures, clocks, plaster, ah
lying in morsels about the floor, and air-holes in the roofs and walls,
through which these winged messengers of destruction have passed.
Ladies and children escaped, in many instances, by the azoteas,
going along the street from one roof to another, not being able to
pass where the cannon was planted. The Sefiora  , with her
six beautiful boys, escaped in that way to her brother's house, in the
evening, and in the very thick of the firing. I was in her drawing-
room to-day, which has a most forlorn appearance ; the floor co
vered with heaps of plaster, broken pictures, bullets, broken glass,
&c, the windows out, and holes in the wah that look as if they were
made for the pipe of a stove to fit into.
The soldiers of both parties, who have occupied the roofs of the
houses, behaved with great ciAdhty ; their officers, on many occa
sions, sending to the family with a request that they would com
plain of any insolence that might be shown by their men. But no
civility could insure the safety of the dAvellers in these houses.
The poor nuns have been terribly frightened, and have passed
these stormy nights in prayers and hymns, which those who hve
near their convents say were frequently heard at midnight, in the
intervals of firing.
I went to see the Countess de V  e, and she showed me the
great hole in the wah by her bedside, through which the shell made
its entree. The fragments are still lying there, so heavy that I could
not lift them. All the windows at the head of that street are
broken in pieces. The shops are re-opened, however, and people
are going about their usual avocations, pretty much as if nothing
had happened; and probably the whole result of all this confusion
and destruction will be — a change of ministry.
Santa Anna, finding that he was not wanted, has modestly re
tired to Manga de Clavo, and has addressed the following letter to
the Minister of War : —
" The triumph which the national arms have just obtained over
the horrible attempts at anarchy, communicated to me by your
Excehency, in your note of the 27th, is very worthy of being cele
brated by every citizen who desires the welfare of his country,
always supposing that pubhc vengeance {la vindicta publico) has
been satisfied; and in this case, I offer you a thousand congratula
tions. This division, although filled Avith regret at not having par
ticipated on this occasion in the risks of our companions in arms,
are rejoiced at so fortunate an event, and hope that energy and a
wholesome severity will now strengthen order for ever, and will
begin an era of felicity for the country. The happy event has been
celebrated here, in the fortress, and in Tepeyahualco, where the first
brigade had aheady arrived (and whom I have ordered to counter
march), with every demonstration of joy. I anxiously desire to

GOMEZ FARIAS. 206
receive the details which 'your Excehency offers to communicate to
me, so that if the danger has entirely ceased, I may return to my
hacienda, and may lay down the command of those troops which
your Excellency orders me to preserve here.
" With sentiments of the most hvely joy for the cessation of the
misfortunes of the capital, I reiterate to your Excellency those of
my particular esteem. " God and Liberty.
" Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna.
" Perote, July 29, 1840."
The houses of Congress are again opened. The ministers pre
sented themselves in the Chamber of Deputies, and a short account
of the late revolution was given by General Almonte, who by the
way was never taken prisoner, as was at first reported. He had gone
out to ride early in the morning, when General Urrea, with some
soldiers, rode up to him and demanded his sword; telling him that
the president was arrested. For all answer, Almonte drew his
sword, and fighting his way through them, galloped to the citadel.
Urrea, riding back, passed by Almonte's house, and pohtely taking
off his hat, saluted the ladies of the family, hoped they were well,
and remarked on the fineness of the weather. They were not a
httle astonished when, a short time after, they heard what had hap
pened. Madame de C  and her daughter were out riding when the
firing began on the morning of the revolution, and galloped home
in consternation.
7th. — A long discussion to-day in Congress on the propriety of
granting extraordinary powers to the president; also a pubhcation
of the despatches written by Gomez Farias during the revolution.
He speaks with the utmost confidence of the success of his enter
prise. In his'first letter, he observes, that General Urrea, with the
greater part of the garrison and people of the capital, have pro
nounced for the re-estabhshment of the federal system, and have,
by the most fortunate combination of circumstances, got possession
of the palace, and arrested the president. That troops have been
passing over to them all day, and that the triumph of the federalists
is so sure, he has httle doubt that the following morning will see
tranquilhty and federalism re-established. The different accounts of
the two parties are rather amusing. It is said that Gomez Farias is
concealed in Mexico 
8th.— Paid a visit to-day, where the lady of the house is a leper ;
though it is supposed that all who are afflicted with this scourge are
sent to the hospital of San Lazaro 
We rode before breakfast this morning to the old church of La
Piedad, and, on our return, found a packet containing letters from
London, Paris, New York, and Madrid. The arrival of the English
packet, which brings all these nouvedutes, is about the most interest
ing event that occurs here.

206

LETTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH.
Visiters — Virgin de los Remedios — Encarnacion — Fears of the Nuns — Santa
Teresa — Rainy Season — Amusing Scene — " Estd a) la Disposition de V." —
— Mexican Sincerity — Texian Vessels — Fine Hair — Schoolmistress — Climate
— Its Effects — Nerves — Tours de Force — Anniversary — Speech — Paseo —
San Angel — Tacubaya — Army of " the Three Guarantees" — Plan of Yguala
— A Murder — Indian Politeness — Drunkenness — Senor Canedo — Revolu
tions in Mexico — The Peiion — The Baths — General  Situation and
View — Indian Family — Of the Boiling Springs — Capabilities — Solitude —
Chapultepec — The Desagravios — Penitence at San Francisco — Discipline of
the Men — Discourse of the Monk — Darkness and Horrors — Salmagundi. August 30th.
In the pohtical world nothing very interesting has occurred, and
as yet there is no change of ministry. Yesterday morning C  n
set off in a coach and six for the vahey of Toluca, about eighteen
leagues from Mexico, with a rich Spaniard, Sefior M  r y
T  n, who has a large hacienda there.
Last Sunday morning, being the first Sunday since the revolution,
we had forty visiters — ladies and gentlemen, Enghsh, French,
Spanish, and Mexican. Such varieties of dresses and languages I
have seldom seen united in one room; and so many anecdotes con
nected with the pronunciamento as were related, some grave, some
ludicrous, that would form a volume ! The Baron de  having
just left this for your part of the world, you wih learn by him the
last intelligence of it and of us.
As there is a want of rain, the Virgin de los Remedios was
brought into Mexico, but as there is stih a shght ripple on the face
of the lately-troubled waters, she was carried in privately — for all
reunions of people are dreaded at this juncture. I had just prepared
pieces of velvet and silk to hang on the balconies, when I found that
the procession had gone by a back street after sunset.
I went lately to visit the nuns of the Encarnacion, to inquire
how they stood their alarms, for their convent had been filled with
soldiers, and they had been in the very heart of the firing. I was
welcomed by a figure covered from head to foot with a double black
crape veil, who expressed great joy at seeing me again, and told me
she was one of the madres who received us before. She spoke with
horror of the late revolution, and of the state of fear and trembling
in which they had passed their time; soldiers within their very wahs,
and their prayers interrupted by voheys of cannon. Thanks to the

RAINY SEASON. 207
intercession of the Virgin, no accident had occurred ; but she added,
that had the Virgin of los Remedios been brought in sooner, these
disorders might never have taken place.
I went from thence to the convent of Santa Teresa, where I saw
no one, but discoursed with a number of voices, from the shrill tre
ble of the old Madre Priora, to the fuh cheerful tones of my friend
the Madre A.  . There is something rather awful in sending
one's voice in this way into an unknown region, and then hstening
for a response from the unseen dwehers there. I have not yet been
inside this convent, but now that affairs are settled for the pre
sent, I trust that the archbishop wih kindly grant his permission to
that effect.
The rainy season is now at its height; that is, it rains severely
every evening, but in the morning it is lovely. The disagreeable
part of it is, that the roads are so bad, it is difficult to continue our
rides in the environs. Horse and rider, after one of these expedi
tions, appear to have been taking a mud-bath. It is very amusing
to stand at the window about four o'clock, and see every one sud
denly caught in the most tremendous shower. In five minutes the
streets become rivers ; and canoes would be rather more useful than
carriages. Strong porters (carg adores) axe in readiness to carry
weh-dressed gentlemen or vromen who are caught in the deluge,
across the streets. Coachmen and footmen have their great-coats
prepared to draw on ; and ah horsemen have their sarapes strapped
behind their saddles, in which, with theh shining leather hats, they
can brave the storm. Trusting to an occasional cessation of rain,
which sometimes takes place, people continue to go out in the even
ing, but it is downright cruelty to coachman and animals, unless the
visit is to a house with a porte-cochere, which many of the houses
have — this amongst others.
September 1st. — Had a dispute this morning with an Enghshman,
who complains bitterly of Mexican insincerity. I beheve the chief
cause of this complaint amongst foreigners consists in their attaching
the shghtest value to the common phrase, " Estd a la disposition de
V." Every thing is placed at your disposal — house, carriage, ser
vants, horses, mules, &c, — the lady's earrings, the gentleman's dia
mond pin, the child's frock. You admire a ring — it is perfectly at
your service; a horse — ditto. Letters are dated " from your house;"
(de la casa de V.) Some from ignorance of the custom, and others
from knavery, take advantage of these offers, which are mere ex
pressions of civihty, much to the confusion and astonishment of the
pohte offerer, who has no more intention of being credited, than
you have when, from common etiquette, you sign yourself the very
humble servant of the very greatest bore. It is a mere habit, and
to call people who indulge in it insincere, reminds me of the Itahan
mentioned somewhere by Lady Blessington, who thought he had
made a conquest of a fair Enghsh woman, though somewhat shocked
by her forwardness, because in an indifferent note to him, she signed

208 CLIMATE.
herseh " Truly yours!' Shall I ever forget the crest-fallen counte
nance of a Mexican gentleman who had just purchased a very hand
some set of London harness, when hearing it admired by a French
man, he gave the customary answer, " It is quite at your disposal,"
and was answered by a profusion of bows, and a ready acceptance
of the offer ! the only difficulty with the Frenchman being as to
whether or not he could carry it home under his cloak, which he
did. If all these offers of service, in which it is Mexican etiquette to
indulge, be believed in — " Remember that I am here but to serve
you" — " My house and every tiling in it is quite at your disposal"
— " Command me in all things;" we shah of course be disappointed
by finding that notwithstanding these reiterated assurances, we must
hire a house for ourselves, and even servants to wait on us ; but take
these expressions at what they are worth, and I beheve we shall find
that people here are about as sincere as their neighbours.
8th. — A good deal of surmise, because four Texian vessels are
cruising in the bay off Vera Cruz. There is also a good deal of
pohtical talk, but I have no longer Madame de Stael's excuse for in
terfering in pohtics, which, by the way, is a subject on which almost
all Mexican women are weh informed; possessing practical know
ledge, the best of ah, like a lesson in geography given by travelling.
I fear we hve in a Paradise Lost, which wih not be regained in our
day. . . .
My attention is attracted, while I write, by the apparition of a
beautiful girl in the opposite balcony, with hair of a golden brown,
hanging in masses down to her feet. This is an uncommon colour
here ; but the hair of the women is generally very long and fine.
It rarely or never curls. We were amused the other day in passing
by a school of httle boys and girls, kept in a room on the first-floor
of Sefior  's house, to see the schoolmistress, certainly not in a
very elegant dishabille, marching up and down with a spelling-book
in her hand, her long hair hanging down, and traihng on the floor a
good half-yard behind her ; while every time she turned, she switched
it round hke a court-train. . . .
You ask me about this climate, for  . For one who, hke her,
is in perfect health, I should think it excehent ; and even an invalid
has only to travel a few hours, and he arrives at tierra caliente.
This chmate is that of the tropics, raised some thousand feet above
the level of the sea ; consequently there is an extreme purity and
thinness of the atmosphere, which generahy effects the breathing
at first. In some it causes an oppression on the chest. On me, it
had httle effect, if any; and at ah events, the feehng goes off, after
the first month or so. There is a general tendency to nervou9
irritation, and to inflammatory complaints, and during September and
October, on account of the heavy rains and the drained lakes on
which part of the city is built, there is said to be a good deal of
ague. Since the time of the cholera in 1833, which committed

CLIMATE. 209
terrible ravages here, there has been no other epidemic. The
smallpox indeed has been very common lately, but it is owing to
the carelessness of the common people, or rather to their prejudice
against having their children vaccinated.
The nervous complaints of the ladies are an unfailing source of
profit to the sons of Galen, for they seem to be incurable. Having
no personal experience of these evils, I only speak from what I see
in others. It appears to me that the only fault of the chmate con
sists in its being monotonously perfect, which is a great drawback to
easy and pohte conversation. The evening deluge is but a perio
dical watering of the earth, from which it rises hke Venus from
the sea, more lovely and refreshed than ever.
C  n has returned from Toluca, after an absence of eight
days. Every one is hurrying to the theatre just now, in spite of the
rain, to see some Spaniards, who are performing tours deforce there.
16th. — Celebration of the Day of Independence, Anniversary of
the " Gloriso Grito de Dolores," of September the 16th, 1810 ; of
the revolution begun thirty years ago, by the curate of the village
of Dolores, in the province of Gunanajuato. " It is very easy,"
says Zavala, it is about the most sensible remark, " to put a coun
try into combustion, when it possesses the elements of discord ; but
the difficulties of its reorganization are infinite."
A speech was made by General Tornel in the Alameda. All the
the troops were out — plenty of officers, monks, priests, and ladies,
in full dress. We did not go to hear the speech, but went to the
E  s house to see the procession, which was very magnificent.
The line of carriages was so deep, that I thought we should never
arrive. After ah was over, we walked in the Alameda, where
temporary booths were erected, and the trees were hung Avith gar
lands and flowers. The paseo in the evening was extremely gay ;
but I cannot say that there appeared to be much enthusiasm or pubhc
spirit. They say that the great difficulty experienced by the Junta,
named on these occasions for the preparation of the festivities, is
to collect sufficient funds.
19th. — We went yesterday to San Angelo, one of the prettiest
villages in the enAfirons of Mexico, and spent the day at the haci
enda of Senor T  e which is in the neighbourhood. The rain
has rendered the roads almost impassable, and the country round
Mexico must be more hke Cortes's description of it at this season,
than at any other period. One part of the road near the hacienda,
which is entirely destroyed, the owner of the house wished to
repair ; but the Indians, who claim that part of the land, will not
permit the innovation, though he offered to throw a bridge over
a small stream which passes there, at his own expense.
24th. — We passed a pleasant day at Tacubaya, and dined with
Monsieur S  , who gave a fete, in consequence of its being his
wife's saint's day.
27th.— Great fete ; being the anniversary of the day on which
p

210 CELEBRATION OF INDEPENDENCE.
the army cahed the trigarante (the three guarantees) entered Mexico
with Yturbide at their head. The famous plan of Iguala, (so
cahed from having first been pubfished in that city,) was also cahed
the plan of the three guarantees; freedom, union, and rehgion,
which were offered as a security to the Spaniards, against whom so
many cruelties had been exercised. We have had ringing of bells
and firing ah the morning, and in the evening there is to be a bull
fight, fohowed by the exhibition of the tours de force of these
Spaniards, commonly called here " los Hercules," who have just
come to offer us a box in the Plaza.
This plan of the Iguala was certainly the only means by which
Spain could have continued to preserve these vast and distant
possessions. The treaty of Cordova, which confirmed it, was
signed in that city between the Spanish General O'Donoju and
Don Agustin Yturbide, in August 1821, and consisted of seven
teen articles.
By the first, Mexico was to be acknowledged as a free and in
dependent nation, under the title of the Mexican empire.
By the second, its government was to be a constitutional
monarchy. By the third, Ferdinand VII. , Catholic King of Spain, was
called to the throne of Mexico ; and should he renounce or re
fuse the throne, it was offered to his brother the Infant Don Carlos,
and under the same circumstances, to each brother in succession.
By the fourth, the emperor was to fix his court in Mexico, which
was to be considered the capital of the empire.
By the fifth, two commissioners named by O'Donoju were to pass
over to the Spanish court, to place the copy of the treaty and of
the accompanying exposition, in his Majesty's hands, to serve him
as an antecedent, until the Cortes should offer him the crown vrith
ah formality ; requesting him to inform the Infantes of the order
in which they were named ; interposing his influence in order that
the Emperor of Mexico should be one of his august house, for the
interest of both nations, and that the Mexicans might add this fink
to the chain of friendship which united them with the Spaniards.
By the sixth, a Junta of the first men in Mexico ; first by their
vhtues, position, fortune, &c, was to be named, sufficient in number
to ensure success in their resolutions by the union of so much talent
and information.
By the seventh, this Junta takes the name of Administrative
Provisional Junta.
By the eighth, O'Donoju was named member of this Junta.
By the ninth, this Junta was to name a President.
By the tenth, it was to inform the pubhc of its installation, and
of the motives which had caused it to meet.
By the eleventh, this assembly was to name a regency, composed
of three persons, to compose the executive power, and to govern in
the name of the monarch, until his arrival.

INDIAN POLITENESS. 211
By the twelfth, the Junta was then to govern conformably to the
laws, in every thing which did not oppose the plan of Iguala, and
till the Cortes had formed the constitution of the state.
By the thirteenth, the regency, as soon as they were named,
were to proceed to the convocation of the Cortes, according to the
method decreed by the provisional Junta.
By the fourteenth, the executive power was to reside in the re
gency—the legislative in the Cortes — but until the reunion of the
Cortes, the legislative power was to be exercised by the Junta.
By the fifteenth, all persons belonging to the community, the
system of government being changed, or the country passing into
the power of another prince, were perfectly at hberty to transport
themselves and their fortunes wherever they chose, &c. &c.
By the sixteenth, this does not hold good in regard to the mili
tary or pubhc employes disaffected to the Mexican independence;
they wih leave the empire within the term prescribed by the re
gency, &c. &c.
By the seventeenth and last, as the occupation of the capital by
the peninsula troops is an obstacle to the realization of the treaty,
this difficulty must be vanquished ; but as the chief of the imperial
army desires to bring this about, not by force, but by gentler means,
General O'Donoju offers to employ his authority Avith the troops,
that they may leave the capital Avithout any effusion of blood, and
by an honourable treaty. This treaty was signed by Yturbide and
O'Donoju. Had this plan of Iguala taken effect, what would have been the
result in Mexico ? — what its present condition? ....
This being Sunday, and a fete-day, a man was murdered close by
our door, in a quarrel brought about probably through the influence
of pulque, or rather of chinguirite. If they did not so often end in
deadly quarrel, there would be nothing so amusing as to watch the
Indians gradually becoming a httle intoxicated. They are at first
so pohte — handing the pulque-jar to their fair companions (fair
being taken in the general or Pickwickian sense of the word); always
taking off their hats to each other, and if they meet a woman,
kissing her hand with an humble bow as if she were a duchess ; —
but these same women are sure to be the cause of a quarrel, and
then out come these horrible knives —and then, Adios !
It is impossible to conceive any thing more humble and pohte than
the common country-people. Men and women stop and wish you a
good day, the men holding their hats in their hands, and all show
ing their white teeth, and faces hghted up by careless goodnature.
I regret to state, however, that to-day there are a great many
women quite as tipsy as the men, returning home after the fete, and
increasing the distance to their vihage, by taking a zigzag direction
through the streets.  .
Sefior Canedo, Secretary of State, has formally announced hisin-
tention of resigning. Certainly the situation of premier in Mexico,
P 2

212 PENON BATHS.
at this moment, is far from enviable, and the more distinguished and
clear-headed the individual, the more plainly he perceives the im
possibility of remedying the thickly-gathering evils which crowd
the pohtical horizon. "Revolution," says Sefior de  , "has
followed revolution since the Independence ; no stable government
has yet been estabhshed. Had it been so, Mexico would have
offered to our eyes a phenomenon unknown until now in the world
— that of a people, without previous preparation, passing at once to
govern themselves by democratical institutions."
28th. — We drove out to the Penon, a natural boihng fountain,
where there are baths, which are considered a universal remedy, a
pool of Bethesda, but an especial one for rheumatic complaints.
The baths are a square of low stone buildings, with a church — each
building containing five or six empty rooms, in one of which is a
.square bath. The idea seems to have been to form a sort of dwell
ing-house for different famihes, as each bath has a small kitchen at
tached to it. Like most great ideas of Spanish days, it is now in a
state of perfect desolation, though people stih flock there for various
complaints. When one goes there to bathe, it is necessary to carry
a mattress, to he down on when you leave the bath, hnen, a bottle
of cold water, of which there is not a drop in the place, and which
is particularly necessary for an invahd in case of faintness — in short,
every thing that you may require. A poor family hve there to take
charge of the baths, and there is a smah tavern where they seh spirits
and pulque; and occasionally a padre comes on Sunday to say mass
in the old church.
We were amused by meeting there with General  and his
family, who had brought with them a whole coach-load of provi
sions, besides mattresses, sheets, &c. The road to the Penon
crosses the most dreary plain imaginable. Behind the baths are
two volcanic hills; and the view of Mexico and of the great volca
noes from this is magnificent. It is the most solitary of buildings;
not a tree to be seen in its environs; these volcanic rocks behind —
Mexico fronting it — the great lakes near it — to the right Guadalupe
— to the left San Angel, San Agustin, and the mountains which
bound the vahey. The Indian family who live there are handsome
savages; and the girl who attended me at the bath spoke an extra
ordinary jargon, hah Spanish, hah Indian, but was a fine specimen
of savage good looks. The water is extremely warm, and my cu
riosity to try its temperature was very soon satisfied.
These boihng springs are said to contain sulphate of hme, carbonic
acid, and muriate of soda, and the Indians make salt in their neigh
bourhood, precisely as they did in the time of Montezuma, with the
difference, as Humboldt informs us, that then they used vessels of
clay, and now they use copper caldrons. The solitary-looking baths
are ornamented with odd-looking heads of cats or monkeys, which
grin down upon you with a mixture of the sinister and facetious
rather appalling.

PUBLIC PENANCE. 213
The Sefiora de  insisted on my partaking of her excellent
luncheon after the bath. We could not help thinking, were these
baths in the hands of some enterprising and speculative Yankee,
what a fortune he would make ; how he would build a hotel a, la
Sarratoga, would paper the rooms, and otherwise beautify this
uncouth temple of boiling water.
There is an indescribable feehng of sohtude in all houses in the
environs of Mexico, a vastness, a desolation, such as I never before
experienced in the most lonely dwelhngs in other countries. It is
not sad — the sky is too bright, and nature too smiling, and the air
we inhale too pure for that. It is a sensation of being entirely out
of the world, and alone with a giant nature, surrounded by faint
traditions of a bygone race ; and the feehng is not diminished, when
the silence is broken by the footstep of the passing Indian, the poor
and debased descendant of that extraordinary and mysterious people,
who came, we know not whence, and whose posterity are now
" hewers of wood and drawers of water," on the soil where they
once were monarchs.
In Chapultepec especially, near as it is to a large and populous
city, the traditions of the past come so strongly upon the mind, that
one would rather look for the apparition of a whole band of these
inky-haired, adder-anointed priests of Montezuma, than expect to
meet with the benevolent-looking archbishop, who, in purple robes,
occasionally walks under the shade of the majestic cypresses.
All Mexicans at present, men and women, are engaged in what
are called the desagravios, a public penance performed at this season
in the churches, during thirty -five days. The women attend church
in the morning, no men being permitted to enter, and the men in
the evenino-, when women are not admitted. Both rules are occa
sionally broken. The penitence of the men is most severe, their
sins being no doubt proportionably greater than those of the women ;
though it is one of the few countries where they suffer for this, or
seem to act upon the principle, that " if all men had their deserts,
who should escape whipping?"
To-day we attended the morning penitence at six o'clock, in the
church of San Francisco ; the hardest part of which was their having
to kneel for about ten minutes with their arms extended in the form
of a cross, uttering groans; a most painful position for any length of
time. It was a profane thought, but I dare say so many hundreds
of beautifully-formed arms and hands were seldom seen extended at
the same moment before. Gloves not being worn in church, and
many of the women having short sleeves, they were very much seen.
-But the other night I was present at a much stranger scene, at the
discipline performed by the men; admission having been procured
for us, by certain means, private but powerful. Accordingly when it
was dark, enveloped from head to foot in large cloaks, and without
the slightest idea of what it was, we went on foot through the streets
to the church of San Agustin. When we arrived, a smah side-door

214 SCOURGING.
apparently opened of itself, and we entered, passing through long
vaulted passages, and up steep winding stairs, tih we found ourselves
in a smah railed gahery, looking down directly upon the church.
The scene was curious. About one hundred and fifty men, enve
loped in cloaks and sarapes, their faces entirely concealed, were as
sembled in the body of the church. A monk had just mounted the
pulpit, and the church was dimly hghted, except where he stood in
bold relief, with his gray robes and cowl thrown back, giving a full
view of Ms high bald forehead and expressive face.
His discourse was a rude but very forcible and eloquent descrip
tion of the torments prepared in heh for impenitent sinners. The
effect of the whole was very solemn. It appeared hke a preparation
for the execution of a multitude of condemned criminals. When the
discourse was finished, they all joined in prayer with much fervour
and enthusiasm, beating their breasts and falhng upon theh faces.
Then the monk stood up, and in a very distinct voice, read several
passages of Scripture descriptive of the sufferings of Christ. The
organ then struck up the Miserere, and all of a sudden the church
was plunged in profound darkness; ah but a sculptured representa
tion of the Crucifixion, which seemed to hang in the ah ihuminated.
I felt rather frightened, and would have been very glad to leave the
church, but it would have been impossible in the darkness. Sud
denly, a terrible voice in the dark cried, " My brothers ! when Christ
was fastened to the pillar by the Jews, he was scourged /" At these
words, the bright figure disappeared, and the darkness became total.
Suddenly, we heard the sound of hundreds of scourges descending
upon the bare flesh. I cannot conceive any thing more horrible.
Before ten minutes had passed, the sound became splashing, from the
blood that was fkrwing.
I have heard of these penitences in Italian churches, and also that
hah of those who go there do not really scourge themselves ; but here
where there is such perfect concealment, there seems no motive for
deception. Incredible as it may seem, this awful penance continued,
without intermission, for hah an hour ! If they scourged each other,
theh energy might be less astonishing.
Wecould not leave the church, but it was perfectly sickening; and
had I not been able to take hold of the Sefiora  's hand, and feel
something human beside me, I could have fancied myself transported
into a congregation of evil spirits. Now and then, but very seldom,
a suppressed groan was heard, and occasionally the voice of the monk
encouraging them by ejaculations, or by short passages from Scrip-
, ture. Sometimes the organ struck up, and the poor wretches, in a
faint voice, tried to join in the Miserere. ' The sound of the scourging
is indescribable. At the end of hah an horn- a httle bell was' rung,
and the voice of the monk was heard, calling upon them to desist;
but such was theh enthusiasm, that the horrible lashing continued
louder and fiercer than ever.
In vain he entreated them not to kill themselves ; and assured

SALMAGUNDI. 215
them that heaven would be satisfied, and that human nature could
not endure beyond a certain point. No answer, but the loud sound
of the scourges, which are many of them of iron, Avith sharp points
that enter the flesh. At length, as if they were perfectly exhausted,
the sound grew fainter, and little by little ceased altogether. We
then got up in the dark, and, with great difficulty, groped our way
in the pitch darkness through the galleries and down the stairs, tih
we reached the door, and had the pleasure of feehng the fresh air
again. They say that the church-floor is frequently covered with
blood after one of these penances, and that a man died the other day
in consequence of his wounds.
I then went to the house of the  Minister, where there was
a reunion, and where I found the company comfortably engaged in
eating a very famous kind of German salad, composed of herrings,
smoked salmon, cold potatoes, and apples ; (salmagundi ?) and
drinking hot punch. After the cold, darkness, and horrors of the
Church, this formed rather a contrast; and it was some time before
I could shake off the disagreeable impression left by the desagravios,
and join in the conversation 
Along with this you will receive some Mexican airs, which I have
•written by ear from hearing them played, and of some of which I
gave you the words in a former letter.

216

MEXICAN AIRS.

(See Letters 12th and 16th.)

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219

LETTER THE TWENTY-SEVENTH.
Fete-day— Friendly Hint— Precautions — General Tranquillity— President in
San Agustin — Revisit Museum — Ancient Manuscripts — Sculpture— Bronze
Bust, &c— Freshness after Rain— Ball at the French Minister's — Pamphlet
— Gutierrez Estrada— His Character— Concealment— Mexicalsingo— Minister
of the Treasury — Archbishop's Permission — Paintings — Mexican Painters —
Santa Teresa — Description of the Interior — The Penitences — Tortures —
Disciplines, &c. — Supper — Profane Ballads — Monasteries — San Francisco —
Padre Prior — Soldiers and Friars. October 3d.
Yesterday being C  n's fete-day, we had a dinner and smah
soiree, and according to custom, visits the whole day. A very
.agreeable guest from Havana, Don J  A  , arrived to spend
a few weeks with us. We had rather a pleasant party, and some
good singing ; but just as dancing had begun, C  n took me
aside, and showed me a httle friendly note which he had received
while at dinner, from General  , in which he informs him that
the robbers would in ah probability attack our respective houses that
night ; that he had taken his precautions, and advises C  n to do
the same, in the understanding that, if necessary, they should mu
tually assist each other. A pleasant piece of intelligence ! The
thing got whispered about, and some of the ladies looked a httle
blank at the information ; but there could be no risk while so many
persons were collected. About one they went away, and C  n
sent for some soldiers to keep watch ah night. Nothing happened ;
as no doubt the robbers found out what precautions had been taken.
The intended attack had been discovered by a servant of the gene
ral's, who heard them discussing the matter in the back-room of a
pulque-shop. We have been obhged to procure two old soldiers as porters, in
lieu of the two who were shot in the revolution ; for though not
killed, they are entirely disabled for the present.
Mexico appears particularly quiet just now; and whatever storms
may be preparing, no symptoms are Aasible to the uninitiated eye.
The palace has got in its glass eyes again, and externahy is almost
entirely repaired; but it is not yet fit for the residence of the presi
dent, who stih holds his court in the convent of San Agustin. I
have been driving about Avith our Havana friend, hke an old resi
dent, showing the beauties of Mexico to a stranger. We have been
in the Mineria, Museum, Botanical Garden, Biscay Cohege, &c, all
of which can bear reArision.
The Museum especiahy, which, owing to the want of arrange
ment and classification in the antiquities, and the manner in which
they are crowded together in the different rooms of the university,
appears at first undeserving of much attention, improves upon ac-

220 MUSEUM.
quaintance. It is only since the year '25 that it was estabhshed by
the government, and various plans have been since made for enrich
ing and arranging it, and also for transporting it to the old building
of the Inquisition. But as yet nothing essential has been carried
into effect.
It contains upwards of two hundred historical manuscripts, some
in hieroglyphical characters anterior to the conquest, and many^ in
the different ancient languages of the country. Of the ancient
sculpture, it possesses two colossal statues and many smaller ones, be
sides a variety of busts, heads, figures of animals, masks, and instru
ments of music or of war, curiously engraved, and indicating the
different degrees of civilization of the different nations to whom
they belonged. A great many of the vases of tecal, and of the
candlesticks in clay, curiously worked, were drawn from excavations
in the Isle of Sacrifices, near Vera Cruz, from Oajaca, &c, and from
the suburbs of Mexico. There is also a cohection of very ancient
medals, to the number of six hundred, a bronze bust of Philip V.,
and about two hundred Mexican paintings, comprehending two col
lections of the portraits of the Spanish Ariceroys, many of the cele
brated Cabrera's, and various dresses, arms, and utensils, from both
the Cahfornias. In the cabinet of natural history there is a good1
cohection of minerals, and some very fine specimens of gold and
silver. But in the animal or vegetable branch of natural history
there is a great deficiency, and altogether the Museum is not worthy
of a country which seems destined by nature to be the great empo
rium of ah natural science.
Of course we have revisited old Chapultepec and Our Lady of
Guadalupe, with her Legend and Holy Weh. In the morning we
have rode to Tacubaya and the environs, and the weather a^that
early hour has the most indescribable freshness, caused by the even
ing rains. Every thing looks bright and sparkling. The Peruvian
trees, with their bending green branches and bunches of scarlet
berries, glitter with the heavy rain-drops, and even the hoary cy
presses of Chapultepec sparkle with water in all their gigantic
branches. _ Little pools have become ponds, and ditches rivulets, and
frequently it is rather wading than riding, which is not so pleasant.
24th. — Last evening we had a very pretty bah in the house of the
French Minister, where ah the Paris furniture was very effective.
There were as usual plenty of diamonds, and some handsome dresses
— mine white satin, Avith flowers.
25th. — The whole world is talking of a pamphlet written by
Sefior Gutierrez Estrada, which has just appeared, and seems likely
to cause a greater sensation in Mexico than the discovery of the
gunpowder plot in England. Its sum and substance is the proposal
of a constitutional monarchy in Mexico, with a foreign prince (not
named) at its head, as the only remedy for the evils by Avhich it is
afflicted. The pamphlet is written merely in a speculative form, in
culcating no sanguinary measures, or sudden revolution; but the
consequences are fikely to be most disastrous to the fearless and pub-

PERSECUTION. 221
lie-spirited author. Even those who most question his prudence in
taking this step, agree that in this, as well as in every other political
action of his fife, he has acted from thorough conviction and from
motives of the purest patriotism, unalloyed by one personal feeling;
indeed, entirely throwing behind him every consideration of per
sonal or family interest, which even the best men allow to have some
weight with them on such occasions.
In a political review of Mexico, written some years ago by a
Mexican who deals fearlessly, and it would seem impartially, with
the characters of all the leading men of that period, I find some re
marks on Sefior Gutierrez Estrada, which you will place more faith
in, as coming from a less partial source than from persons so attached
as we are to him and his family. In speaking of the conduct of the
administration,^ he says — _" Sefior Gutierrez Estrada was one of the
few who remained firm in his ideas, and above all, true to his po
htical engagements. This citizen is a native of the State of Yuca
tan, where his family, who are distinguished in every point of view,
reside. It is unnecessary to say that Gutierrez received a thorough
and brilliant education, as it is sufficient to have conversed with him
to discover this fact; nor that he knew how to turn it to account in
the career of pubhc service to which he devoted himself, and in
which he has remained pure and unblemished in the midst of a cor
rupt class. From the first he was destined to the European Lega
tions, on account of his fluency in speaking and writing both English
and French; and he is one of the few who have employed their time
usefully in the capitals of the Old World. Flexible by nature, ho
nourable by education, and expeditious in business, his services have
been perfect, and above all, loyal and conscientious." He goes on
to say that, " notwithstanding the gentleness of his temper, his po
htical conscience is so firm and pure, that he will never yield in what
he considers his obligation, even when it interferes ivith the most in
timate friendships, or most weighty considerations." One would think
that the writer had foreseen the present emergency. I have not yet
read the pamphlet which the friends of the author consider an equal
proof of his noble independence, bold patriotism, and vast informa
tion; being, to say the truth, much more interested in its domestic
effects than in its public results, or even in its intrinsic merits.
26th. — Soldiers were sent to the house of the Countess de la
C  a, to arrest her son-in-law, but in comphance with the en
treaties of his family, he had gone into concealment. I found them
in great affliction, but they are so accustomed to pohtical persecution
from one party or another, particularly the countess, that her courage
has never deserted her for a moment. He is accused in Congress —
in the senate-house — a proclamation is made by the president, ana
thematizing his principles — even the printer of the pamphlet is
thrown into prison. Nothing else is spoken of, and the general irri
tation is so terrible, that it is to be hoped his place of concealment is
secure ; otherwise the consequences may be fatal.
On pretend that many distinguished men here hold the same

222 MEXICALSINGO.
opinions, but their voices, even were they to venture to raise them,
could not stem the tide of pubhc indignation. The most offended
are naturally the military men  In short, Seiior Gutierrez,
who has been passing four years abroad, in countries where hun
dreds of obscure scribblers daily advocate republicanism or any wfld
theory that strikes their fancy, with the most perfect security, was
probably hardly aware of the extraordinary ferment which such a
pamphlet was likely to produce at the present juncture.
27th. — A few days before Senor A  left us, we went up the
canal in a canoe, as far as Santa Anita, to show him ah that remains
of the Chmampas. It is as pleasant a way of passing an evening as
any that I know of here.
We drove lately to Mexicalsingo, where there is a cave in which
there is a figure of our Saviour, which they pretend has lately ap
peared there. . . .
The excitement concerning the pamphlet seems rather to increase
than diminish, but Seiior Gutierrez has many devoted friends, and
the place of his retreat is secure. There is httle doubt that he wih
be forced to fly the country.
29th. — Sefior Don Xavier Hechavarria, Minister of the Treasury,
has sent in his resignation. Being a man of large private fortune,
extremely simple in his habits, and the most amiable of men in
domestic hfe, I- beheve that no minister has ever thrown off with
more unaffected satisfaction the burden of state affairs, or wih enjoy
his retreat from pubhc hfe with more true philosophy.
I have been so much interested in the affairs of the C  a family,
that I have forgotten to tell you of my haAfing obtained permission
from the archbishop to Aasit the Santa Teresa, accompanied by one
young married lady, who has a sister there. The archbishop desired
that our visit should be kept a secret; but it has oozed out by some
means or other, probably through the nuns themselves, and exposed
him to so much inconvenience and such a torrent of solicitations
from those ladies who, having daughters or sisters amongst the nuns,
are naturally most desirous to see them, that I fear, notwithstanding
his good nature, he will put a veto on all my future applications.
You will think I pass my time in convents, but I find no other
places hah so interesting, and you know I always had a fancy
that way.
In some of these convents there stih exist, buried ahve hke the
inmates, various fine old paintings; amongst others, some of the
Flemish school, brought to Mexico by the monks, at the time when
the Low Countries were under Spanish dominion. Many masters
also of the Mexican school, such as Enriquez, Cabrera, &c, have
enriched the cloisters with their productions, and employed their
talent on holy subjects, such as the hves of the saints, the martyrs,
and other Christian subjects. Everywhere, especially, there are
Cabreras, an artist somewhat in the Luca Giordano style ; the same
monotony, facility, and ' 'fa presto Luca !" Ah his pictures are agree
able, and some strikingly beautiful. Occasionahy he copies from

CONVENT. 223
the old masters, but rarely. Ximenes and Enriquez are not so com
mon, and some of their productions are very good, and deserve to
be better known than I imagine they are in Europe. They are a
branch of the Spanish school, and afford striking proofs of the extra
ordinary talent of the Mexicans for the fine arts, as well as of the
facihties which the mother-country afforded them.
But it is in the convent of the Profesa that the finest paintings
are, and there I cannot enter ! The gaheries are fuh of paintings,
the most part by Cabrera; andC  n speaks with enthusiasm of
one exceedingly beautiful painting, in the sacristy of the chapel,
said to be an original Guido, being a representation of Christ tied, to
the pillar and scourged; in which the expression of pure divinity
and suffering humanity is finely blended, and weh contrasted with
savage cruelty in the countenances of his executioners. But most of
these paintings are neglected, and so falhng to decay that it is piti
able to look at them.
The Santa Teresa, however, has few ornaments. It is not nearly
so large as the Encarnacion, and admits but twenty-one nuns. At
present there are, besides these, but three noAaces. Its very atmo
sphere seems holy, and its scrupulous and excessive cleanness makes
afl profane dwehings appear dirty by comparison. We were accom
panied by a bishop, Senor Madrid, the same who assisted at the
archbishop's consecration — a good-looking man, - young and tall,
and very splendidly dressed. His robes were of purple satin, covered
with fine point-lace-, with a large cross of diamonds and amethysts.
He also wore a cloak of very fine purple cloth, lined with crimson
velvet, crimson stockings, and an immense amethyst ring.
When he came in we found that the nuns had permission to put
up their veils, rarely ahowed in this order in the presence of strangers.
They have a small garden and fountain, plenty of flowers, and some
fruit; but all is on a smaller scale, and sadder than in the convent
of the Incarnation. The refectory is a large room, with a long nar
row table running all round it — a plain deal table, with wooden
benches ; before the place of each nun, an earthen bowl, an earthen
cup with an apple in it, a wooden plate and a wooden spoon; at the
top of the table a grinning skull, to remind them that even these
indulgences they shah not long enjoy.
In one corner of the room is a reading-desk, a sort of elevated
pulpit, where one reads aloud from some holy book, whilst the
others discuss their simple fare. They showed us a crown of thorns,
which, on certain days, is worn by one of their number, by way of
penance. It is made of iron, so that the nails entering inwards, run
into the head, and make it bleed. While she wears this on her head,
a sort of wooden bit is put into her mouth, and she hes prostrate on
her face tih dinner is ended; and while in this condition her food is
given her, of which she eats as much as she can, which probably
is none. We visited the different ceUs, and were horror-struck at the self-
inflicted tortures. Each bed consists of a wooden plank raised in the

224 PENANCES.
middle, and on days of penitence crossed by wooden bars. The
pillow is wooden, with a cross lying on it, which they hold in their
hands when they he down. The nun hes on this penitential couch,
embracing the cross, and her feet hanging out, as the bed is made
too short for her upon principle. Round her waist she occasionally
wears a band with iron points turning inwards; on her breast a cross
with nails, of which the points enter the flesh, of the truth of
which I had melancholy ocular demonstration. Then, after having
scourged herseh with a whip covered with iron nails, she hes down
for a few hours on the wooden bars, and rises at four o'clock. All
these instruments of discipline, which each nun keeps in a httle box
beside her bed, look as if their fitting place would be in the dungeons
of the Inquisition. They made me try their bed and board, which
I told them would give me a very decided taste for early rising.
Yet they ah seem as cheerful as possible, though it must be con
fessed, that many of them look pale and unhealthy. It is said, that
when they are strong enough to stand this mode of life, they live
very long; but it frequently happens that girls who come into this
convent, are obhged to leave it from sickness, long before the expi
ration of theh no-vitiate. I met with the girl whom I had seen take
the veil, and cannot say that she looked either weh or cheerful,
though she assured me, that " of course, in doing the wih of God,"
she was both. There was not much beauty amongst them generahy,
though one or two had remains of great loveliness. My friend, the
Madre A  , is handsomer on a closer Aaew than I had supposed
her, and seems an especial favourite Avith old and young. But there
was one whose face must have been strikingly beautiful. She was
as pale as marble, and though stih young, seemed in very dehcate
health; but her eyes and eyebrows as black as jet, the eyes so large
and soft, the eyebrows two pencilled arches; and her smiles so re
signed and sweet, would have made her the lovehest model imagin
able for a Madonna.
Again, as in the Incarnation, they had taken the trouble to. pre
pare an elegant supper for us. The bishop took his place in an an
tique velvet chair, the Sefiora  and I were placed on each
side of him. The room was very weh lighted, and there was as
great a profusion of custards, jellies, and ices, as if we had been
supping at the most profane cafe. The nuns did not sit down, but
walked about, pressing us_ to eat, the bishop now and then giving
them cakes, with permission to eat them, which they received
laughing. They have the most humble and caressing manners, and
reahy appear to be the most amiable and excehent women in the
world. They seem to make no ostentation of virtue, but to be
seriously impressed with the conviction that they have chosen the
true road to salvation ; nor are there in them any visible symptoms
of that spiritual pride from which few devotees are exempt.
After supper, a smah harp was brought in, which had been sent
for by the bishop's permission. It was terribly out of tune, with
half the strings broke; but we were determined to grudge no trouble

MONASTERIES. 225
in putting it in order, and giving these poor recluses what they con
sidered so great a gratification. We got it into some sort of condi
tion at last, and when they heard it played, they were vehement in
theh expressions of delight. The Sefiora  — , who has a charming
voice, afterwards sang to them, the bishop being very indulgent,
and permitting us to select whatever songs we chose, so that when
rather a profane canticle, " The Virgin of the Pillar" (La Virgin
del Pilar), was sung, he very kindly turned a deaf ear to it, and
seemed busily engaged in conversation with an old madre, till it
was all over.
We were really sorry to leave them ; particularly as it is next to
impossible that we shall ever see them again ; and it seemed as if in
a few hours a friendship had been formed between us and these re
cluses, whose sensations are so few, they must be the more lasting.
The thoughts of these poor women cost me a sad and sleepless night.
They have sent me some wax figures, dressed in the costumes of the
different orders, beginning with their own. They wear the coarsest
and hardest stuff next their skin, in itself a perpetual penance.
In these robes they are buried ; and one would think that if any
human being can ever leave this world without a feehng of regret,
it must be a nun of the Santa Teresa, when, her privations in this
world ended, she lays down her blameless life, and joins the pious
sisterhood who have gone before her ; dying where she has lived,
surrounded by her companions, her last hours soothed by their
prayers and tears, sure of their vigils for the repose of her soul, and
above all, sure that neither pleasure nor vanity Avih ever obliterate
her remembrance from their hearts.
At matins, at vespers, at the simple board, at the nightly hymn,
she will be missed from their train. Her empty cell will recall her
to their eyes; her dust will be profaned by no stranger's foot
step, and though taken away, she stih seems to remain amongst
them 
As for the monasteries, not only no woman can enter, but it is
said, with what truth I know not, that a vice-queen having in
sisted on the privilege of her vice-royalty to enter, the gallery, and
every place which her footsteps desecrated, were unpaved. This was
very Saint Senanus hke, andpeu galant, to say the least.
The finest convent of monks in Mexico is that of San Francisco,
which from alms alone has an immense annual rent. According to
Humboldt, it was to have been built upon the ruins of the temple
of Huitzilopochth, the god of war; but these ruins having been
destined for the foundation of the cathedral, this immense convent
was erected where it now stands, in 1531. The founder was an ex
traordinary man, a great benefactor of the Indians, and to whom
they owed many useful mechanical arts which he brought them
from Europe. His name was Fray Pedro de Grante — his calling that
of a lay-friar — and his father was the Emperor Charles V. !
Of the interior of this convent I am enabled to give you a partial

226 THE PRESIDENT.
description, but whether from hearsay, in a ATision, or by the use of
my natural eyes, I shah not disclose. It is built in the form of a
square, and has five churches attached to it. You enter a gate, pass
through the great, silent, and grass-grown court — up the broad stah>
case, and enter the long, arched cloisters, hghted by one dim lamp,
where every thing seems to breathe a religious repose. . . .
The padre prior, seated alone in his cell, Avith a thick and richly-
clasped volume before him, a single lamp on his table, on the wall
a crucifix, plain but decent furniture, Avith his bald head, and pale,
impressive face, would have made a fine study for a painter. By
such men, the embers of learning and of science were nursed into a
faint but steady flame, burning through the long, gloomy night of
the dark ages, unseen by profane eyes, hke the vestal fire in pagan
temples. . . .
A smah room, opening into his httle parlour, contains his bed, on
which is a mattress ; for the padres do not perform such acts of self-
denial and penitence as the cloistered nuns — and I am assured that
his cigars are genuine Havana. . . .
Beggars lounging within the courtyard — a group of monks talk
ing together Avithin the walled enclosure. . . .
Change the scene to the monastery of San Agustin, and you
might fancy yourself in the days of one of Walter Scott's romances,
in the melange of soldiers and friars ; for here his Excehency the Pre
sident has his temporary abode ; and the torch-hght gleams brightly
on the swarthy faces of the soldiers, some lying on the ground enve
loped in their cloaks; otherskeepingguardbeforetheconventgate. This
convent is also very large, but not so immense as that of San Fran
cisco. The padre prior is a good httle old man, but has not the im
pressive, ascetic visage of the guardian of the other convent. His
room is as simple, though not in such perfect order; and his bed is
also furnished with a comfortable mattress. An ah half military,
half monkish, pervades the convent — aides-de-camp of the president
passing along the galleries, their uniforms contrasting with the dark
robe of a passing monk, returning at nightfall to his ceh.
The president had an alarm the night preceding, the prisoners in
the jail having broken out. A serious affray had been expected, and
every thing was prepared for putting the person of thepresidentinsafety.
The back stairs and secret passages in these old convents lead to ex
cellent hiding-places, and have been put to frequent use during the
revolutions. In the old Monte Pio there is a communication with a
convent of nuns, and in cases of pillage, the jewels used to be carried
by a private staircase out of Monte Pio, and placed under the care
of the nuns of Santa Brigida.
The convent of la Profesa is also a fine and spacious building,
but excepting that it has a greater number of good paintings than the
others, when you have seen one, you have seen all, and I believe none
are as large as that founded by the illegitimate scion of the Imperial
Charles, who himself ended his days in a similar retreat.

227

LETTER THE TWENTY-EIGHTH.
Dia de Muertos— .Leave Mexico— Herraderos— San Cristobal— Tunas— Plaza
i VTtZl hrow'nS the £*«>— Accidents— Rustic Breakfast-Country Fare
-Baked Meat-Indian Market-Buried Bull-Mountain-Solitary Hacienda
matic3D~ marked— Return-Queen of Spain's Birthday— Diplo-
Santiago, November 3d.
Yesterday, the second of November, a day which for eight
centuries has been set apart in the Catholic Church for commemo
rating the dead, the day emphatically known as the " Dia de
Muertos," the churches throughout all the Republic of Mexico
present a gloomy spectacle ; darkened and hung with black cloth,
while m the middle aisle is a coffin, covered also with black, and
painted with skulls and other emblems of mortahty. Ev-ery one attends
church in mourning, and considering the common lot of humanity,
there is, perhaps, , not one heart over the whole Cathohc world,
which is not wrung that day, in calling up the memory of the de
parted. After early mass, we set off for Santiago, where we intend to
spend a week, to be present at the Herraderos — the marking of the
bulls with a hot iron Avith the initials of the proprietor's name ;
stamping them with the badge of slavery — which is said to be an
extraordinary scene ; to which all rancheros and Indians look for
ward with the greatest dehght. We had a very pleasant journey
here, leaving Mexico at six in the morning, and travelling at the
usual rate, with seven horses and plenty of mozos. Indeed, no one
attempts a journey of any length into the country, without at least
six horses or mules.
Near Sopayuca, while they were changing horses, we went to
mass, in the picturesque church of San Cristobal. The magnifi
cence of these places of worship is extraordinary. Here was this
¦country church crowded with leperos, the officiating priests, Indians
with bare feet; yet the building large and rich, hung with black
cloth, and hghted with great tapers which threw their gloomy rays
on as much of the rich gilding that encrusted the walls, as the dark
pall left visible.
We got into the carriage a basket of that most refreshing of
fruits, the tuna, which grow wild in abundance ah over the country ^
The first time I unwarily pulled them off the trees, I got my fingers
full of the innumerable httle prickles which cover the skin, and
which it is very difficult to get rid of. The Indians have great
E

228 MARKING THE BULLS.
dexterity in gathering and peeling them. There is the green and
the red tuna; the last the prettiest to look at, but not nearly so
agreeable a fruit as the other.
When we arrived at Santiago, we sat down to dinner to the
number of about fifty persons, and in the room next to us was a
party stih larger, of lower degree, for ah the world has come to be
present at this annual festivity.
6th. — The next morning we set off early to the plaza de toros.
The day was fresh and exhihrating. Ah the country people from
several leagues round were assembled, and the trees up to their very
topmost branches presented a collection of bronze faces and black
eyes, belonging to the Indians, who had taken their places there as
comfortably as spectators in a one-shilling gahery. A platform
opposite ours, was fihed with the wives and daughters of agents and
smah farmers, httle rancheros, with short white gowns and rebosos.
There was a very tolerable band of music, perched upon a natural or
chestra. Bernardo and his men were walking and riding about,
and preparing for action. Nothing could be more picturesque than
the Avhole scene.
Seven hundred bulls were driven in from the plains, bellowing
loudly, so that the air was fihed with their fierce music. The
universal love which the Mexicans have for these sports, amounts to
a passion. Ah theh money is reserved to buy new dresses for this
occasion, silver rolls or gold hnings for theh hats, or new deerskin
pantaloons and embroidered jackets with silver buttons. The acci
dents that happen are innumerable, but nothing damps theh ardour.
It beats fox hunting. The most striking part of the scene is the ex
traordinary facihty which these men show in throwing the laso.
The bulls being ah driven into an enclosure — one after another, and
sometimes two or three at a time, were chosen from amongst them,
and driven into the plaza, where they were received with shouts of
applause, if they appeared fierce, and likely to afford good sport; or
of irony, if they turned to fly, which happened more than once.
Three or four bulls are driven in. They stand for a moment,
proudly reconnoitring their opponents. The horsemen gallop up,
armed only with the laso, and with loud insulting cries of
" Ah toro!" chahenge them to the contest. The bulls paw the
ground, then plunge furiously at the horses, frequently wounding
them at the first onset. Round they go in fierce gahop, bulls and
horsemen, amidst the cries and shouts of the spectators. The horse
man throws the laso. The bull shakes his head free of the cord,
tosses his horns proudly, and gahops on. But his fate is inevitable.
Down comes the Avhirling rope, and encircles his thick neck. He
is throAvn down struggling furiously, and repeatedly dashes his head
against the ground in rage and despair. Then, his legs being also
tied, the man with the hissing red-hot iron in the form of a letter,
brands him on the side with the token of his dependance on the lord
of the soil. Some of the bulls stand this martyrdom with Spartan

COUNTRY FARE. 229
heroism, and do not utter a cry ; but others, when the iron enters
their flesh, burst out into long bellowing roars, that seem to echo
through the whole country. They are then loosened, get upon
their legs again, and hke so many branded Cains, are driven out
into the country, to make way for others. Such roaring, such
shouting, such an odour of singed hair and biftek au naturel, such
playing of music, and such wanton risks as were ran by the men !
I saw a toreador, who was always foremost in every thing, at
tempting to drag a buh by the horns, when the animal tossed his
head, and with one jerk of one horn, tore ah the flesh off his finger
to the very bone. The man coolly tore a piece off a handkerchief,
shook the blood off his finger with a shght grimace, bound it up in
a moment, and dashed away upon a new venture. One Mexican,
extraordinarily handsome, with eyes hke an eagle, but very thin
and pale, is, they say, so covered from head to foot with wounds re
ceived in different bull-fights, that he cannot hve long; yet this man
was the most enthusiastic of them all. His master tried to dissuade
him from joining in the sport this year; but he broke forth into
such pathetic entreaties, conjuring him " by the hfe of the Se
norita," &c, that he could not withhold his consent.
After an enormous number of buhs had been caught and labelled,
we went to breakfast. We found a tent prepared for us, formed of
boughs of trees intertwined with garlands of white moss, like that
which covers the cypresses at Chapultepec, and beautifully orna
mented with red blossoms and scarlet berries. We sat down upon
heaps of white moss, softer than any cushion. The Indians had
cooked meat under the stones for us, which I found horrible,
smelling and tasting of smoke. But we had also boiled fowls, and
quantities of burning chile, hot tortillas, atole, or atolli, as the
Indians cah it, a species of cakes made of very fine maize and
water, and sweetened with sugar or honey; embarrado, a favourable
composition of meat and chile, very like mud, as the name imports,
which I have not yet made up my mind to endure; quantities of
fresh tunas, granaditas, bananas, aguacates, and other fruits, besides
pulque a discretion.
The other people were assembled in circles under the trees,
cooking fowls and boihng eggs in a gipsy fashion, in caldrons, at
httle fires made with dry branches; and the band, in its intervals
of tortillas and pulque, favoured us with occasional airs. After
breakfast, we walked out amongst the Indians, who had formed a
sort of temporary market, and were selling pulque, chia, roasted
chestnuts, yards of baked meat, and every kind, of fruit. We then
returned to see a great buh-fight, which was followed by more
herraderos — in short, spent the whole day amongst the toros, and
returned to dinner at six o'clock, some in coaches, some on horse
back. In the evening, ah the people danced in a large hah; but at
eleven o'clock I could look on no longer, for one of these days in
the hot sun is very fatiguing. Nevertheless, at two in the morn-
u 2

230 BURIED BULL.
ing, these men, who had gone through such violent exercise, were
still dancing jarabes. ,
8th. — For several days we hved amongst buhs and Indians, the
herraderos continuing, with variation of colear, riding the bulls,
&c. Not the shghtest slackening in the eagerness of the men.
Even a httle boy often years old mounted a young buh one day, and
with great difficulty and at a great risk succeeded in forcing him to
gallop round the circle. His father looked on, evidently frightened
to death for the boy, yet too proud of his youthful prowess to attempt
to stop him.
At night, when I shut my eyes, I see before me visions of bulls'
heads. Even Avhen asleep I hear them roaring, or seem to listen to
the shouts of " Ah toro!" The last day of the herraderos, by way
of winding up, a buh was kihed in honour of C  n, and a great
flag was sent streaming from a tree, on which flag was inscribed in
large letters, " Gloria al Sefior Ministro de la Augusta Cristina !" a
piece of gallantry which I rewarded with a piece of gold.
The animal, when dead, is given as a present to the torcadores;
and this bull, cut in pieces, they bury with his skin on, in a hole in
the ground preAaously prepared, with a fire in it, which is then co
vered over with earth and branches. During a certain time, it re
mains baking in this natural oven, and the common people consider
it a great delicacy, (in which I differ from them).
Yesterday, we climbed to the top of a steep mountain, which cost
us as much labour as if it had been that steep path which " leads to
fame." Fortunately, it has a good deal of Avood, and we had an oc
casional rest in the shade. We mounted the hill on horseback as
far as horses could go ; but the principal part could only be performed
on foot. Most of the party remained hah way. We reached the
top, swinging ourselves up by the branches, in places where it was
nearly perpendicular. We were rewarded, first by the satisfaction
one always has in making good one's intentions, and. next, by a won
derfully fine and extensive view. Our return was more agreeable,
as the weather, except in the heat of the noon-day sun, is very cool in
this part of the country. The Mils are covered chiefly with tunas,
low firs, and numbers of shrubs, with flowers and berries 
Met on our return a horseman, who came to announce the arrival of
a guest, Sefior H  , from Puebla, who proved a pleasant addition
to our society.
15th. — We went out early this morning on horseback, and break
fasted at an hacienda, five leagues distant from Santiago, belonging
to the widow of  's agents, a good looking, respectable woman,
who, alone, in this solitary place, brings up her eight children as she
best can. Tlfis may really be cahed sohtude. From one year to
the other she never sees a human being, except an occasional Indian.
She is well off, and every thing in her house is clean and. comfortable.
She herself manages the farm, and educates her children to the best
of her abilities, so that she never finds time to be dull. She expected

MULES. 231
us, and gave us breakfast (we being about twenty in number), con
sisting of every thing Avhich that part of the country can afford;
and the party certainly did justice to her excellent fare. She gave us
pulque, fermented with the juice of the pineapple, which is very good.
When the sun had gone down a httle, we rode to the fine hacienda
of Reyes, belonging to Sefior A  , where he is making and pro
jecting alterations and improvements. When we left Reyes it began
to rain, and we were glad to accept the covering of sarapes, as we
galloped over the plains. We had a dehghtful ride. Towards even
ing the rain ceased, and the moon rose brightly and without a cloud ;
but we were certainly tired enough when we got home, having rode
in ah ten leagues.
17th. — These two days have been passed in seeing the mules
marked. They are even more dangerous than the buhs, as they bite
most ferociously while in their wild state. When thrown down by
the laso, they snore in the most extraordinary manner, like so many
aldermen in an apoplectic nap.
This is, perhaps, the most useful and profitable of all Mexican ani
mals. As beasts of burthen and for draught, they are in use over
the whole republic, and are excehent for long journeys, being ca
pable of immense fatigue, particularly in those arid, hihy parts of
the country, where there are no roads. Those which go in droves,
can carry about five hundred pounds weight, going at the rate of
twelve or fourteen miles a day, and in this way they can perform
journeys of more than a thousand miles. For constant use they are
preferable to horses, being so much less dehcate, requiring less care,
and enduring more fatigue. A good pair of carriage mules wih cost
from five hundred to a thousand dollars.
After dinner we saw some of these wild creatures, that had just
been caught, put into a carriage, each wild mule harnessed Avith a
civihzed one, and such kicking and flinging up of heels I never wit
nessed. However, the mozos, can manage any thing, and in about
hah an hour, after much alternate soothing and lashing, they trotted
along with the heavy coach after them, only rearing and plunging at
decent intervals. Mexico, 12th.
We have passed ten days in the country, taking constant exer
cise, and have been obhged to return home rather sooner than we
should have wished, in order to mark Queen Ysabel's Day with a
diplomatic dinner.
Though less is now said on the subject of the pamphlet than when
we left this, the irritation seems to continue as before. _ Sefior Gu
tierrez remains concealed, communicating only with his family and
a few devoted friends ; a most disagreeable position, and one which
it is impossible for him to endure long.
20th.— Our dinner has gone off as well as could be expected. The
party were twenty-six in number, consisting of his Grace the Arch
bishop, their Excellencies of the Cabinet and Corps Diplomatique,

232 QUEEN'S BIRTHDAY.
together with Count Cortina, the Valencias, and Gorostizas. The
gentlemen were in fuh uniform— the ladies en grande toilette— -the
archbishop in his robes. We had a band of music m the gahery,
and walked in to the sound of the Norma, precedence bemg given to
the archbishop, who took me, or rather whom I took, as I found
some difficulty in getting my arm into his robes. I beheve no blun
ders in etiquette were committed. The dinner lasted three and a
hah mortal hours. The archbishop proposed the health of her
Majesty the Queen, which was drank standing, the band performing
God save the Queen. I was dreadfuhy tired (though m a very
agreeable position), and have no doubt every one else was the same,
it being eleven when we returned to the drawing-room.
The archbishop's famihars, two priests who always accompany
him, respectable black guards, were aheady in waiting. As for him,
he was as kind and agreeable as usual, and, after coffee, took his de
parture to the sound of music.

LETTER THE TWENTY-NINTH. .
Virgin of Cavadonga — Santo Domingo — Decorations and Music — Daguerreotype
— Weekly Soirees — An Arrival — An Earthquake — Honourable Mr. 
— Broken Furniture — Dias — Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe — Party of the
Desierto — Itzcuintepotzotli — Inn of Guajimaclo — Ruined Convent — Its Origin
— Dejeune a la Fourchette — Splendid Scenery — Vow to the Virgin — Musi
cal Mass — Tacuba — Ride with the Prior. 21st.
We received a few days since an invitation to attend the sumptu
ous mass, annually given by the Asturian Brotherhood, in honour
of the Virgin of Cavadonga, in the church of Santo Domingo.
The invitation being printed on blue satin, with gold lace and
tassels, seems worthy of a place in a box of wax figures, which will
be sent by the next packet.
The church was superbly decorated, and only well-dressed peo
ple were admitted. C  n was carried off to a post of honour
near the altar, and a padre gave me a velvet chair. The music was
beautiful, but too gay for a church. There were violins and wind
instruments, and several amateur players. Some pieces from the
Cheval de Bronze were very weh played. The sermon, preached by
Guerrero, a chanoine who has some reputation as an orator, con-

DAGUERREOTYPE. 233
tained a prudent degree of praise of the Spaniards, and even of a
king, could that king be a pelayo.
In the evening we dined at the Prussian minister's — a pleasant
party. Yesterday we went to Chapultepec, C  n and I, M. de
Gr—  1, and M. de N — — , to take views with the Daguerreotype,
which C  n had the pleasure of receiving some time ago from
Boston, from our friend, Mr. Prescott. Whhe they were work
ing in the sun, I, finding that the excessive heat had the effect of
coohng my enthusiasm, estabhshed myseh with a book under Mon
tezuma's cypress, which felt very romantic. The poetry of the scene,
however, was greatly weakened by the arrival of a party of forgats in
chains, who are working in the castle, which I beheve there is
some intention of haAang transformed into a mihtary cohege.
They are so insolent, that forgetting they are guarded and chained
in couples, I felt glad to see that the servants were within cah.
Our weekly soirees have begun, and, so far, are very successful.
There are now three tertuhas in the week at the houses of the diplo-
mates. We have generahy music, cards, and plenty of dancing,
and every one seems pleased, the best proof of which they give by
generally staying till two or three in the morning.
28th. — You may imagine my joy at the arrival of K — and A —
in health and safety at three o'clock to-day. They have had a good
journey from Vera Cruz, suffering from nothing but the cold, which
they felt especiahy at Perote. As they arrived on the day of a
soiree, they did not make their appearance, being tired. I have
now an excuse for reAasiting all my old haunts, and the first week
or two must pass in sight-seeing.
30th. — We dined yesterday at Tacubaya ; where the C  a
family, particularly the ladies of the family, are in a state of the
greatest uneasiness.
I had just written these words, when I began, to my great
astonishment, to rock up and down, chair, table, and myself. Sud
denly, the room, the walls, ah began to move, and the floor to heave
hke the waves of the sea ! At first, I imagined that I was giddy,
but almost immediately saw that it was an earthquake. We all ran,
or rather staggered as weh as we could, into the gallery, where the
servants were aheady ranged on their knees, praying and crossing
themselves with all their might. The shock lasted abovea minute
and a half, and I beheve has done no injury, except in frightening
the whole population, and cracking a few old wahs. Ah Mexico was
on its knees while it lasted, even the poor madmen in San Hepo-
hto, which A  had gone to visit in company Avith Sefior  .
I have had a feeling of sea-sickness ever since. They expect a
return of the shock in twenty-four hours. How dreadful a severe
earthquake must be ! how terrible it is to feel this heaving of the
sohd earth, to lose our confidence in its security, and to be reminded
that the elements of destruction which lurk beneath our feet, are

234 DIA DE FIESTA.
yet swifter and more powerful to destroy, than those which are
above us. .
I cannot help laughing yet at the recollection of the face of a
poor httle clerk who had just entered the house with a packet of
letters for C  n. He did not kneel, but sat down upon the
steps as pale as death, looking as " creamed faced" as the messen
ger to Macbeth; and when the shock was over, he was so sick, that
he ran out of the house without making any remarks. The scarlet
hucamaya, with a loud shriek, flew from its perch, and performed
a zig-zag flight though the air, down to the troubled fountain in
the court.
Your friend, the honourable Mr.  , arrived the other day, look
ing very ill, having had the yellow fever at Havana very severely,
a pecuhar piece of bad fortune at this season.
All the furniture Ave ordered from the United States, arrived
some time ago, a mass of legs and arms. Tables, wardrobes, &c;,
were, I beheve, all sold for the mahogany, at_ Vera Cruz. The
mirrors also arrived in powder. This must be owing to bad packing,
since our most dehcate things from London, such as crystal, porce
lain, &c, have arrived in excellent condition.
December 3d. — Have had many visits to-day, this being my dia
de fiesta. Amongst others the president was here. This custom of
keeping people's dias gives one a great deal of trouble, but the
omission is considered rather a breach of politeness.
12th. — This being the anniversary of the day of the miraculous
apparition of our Lady of Guadalupe, the cathedral and vihage will
be crowded with Indians from ah parts of the country. A  and
Mr. B  have driven over there; but, from all accounts, the crowd
will be so great, that we are not tempted to accompany them. We
have a soiree this evening, and have had two pleasant parties this
week at the other houses. To-morrow we intend going with a large
farty to the Desierto, where some gentlemen are to give a breakfast.
understand that there are to be twenty-three people on horseback,
and eighteen in carriages, and our trysting-place is by the great
fountain with the gilt statue, in the Paseo de Bucarelh ; the hour,
half-past seven. They say the Desierto is a beautiful place, but
being seven leagues from Mexico, we shah probably ah return as
tired as possible.
15th. — The morning of our party to the Desierto was beautiful.
Here one need not fear those contretemps in regard to the weather,
which in England so often render a party of pleasure painful; un
less, indeed, one chooses to select an evening in the rainy season for
an expedition. We met by the fountain at the hour appointed,
some in carriages, and some on horseback. Of the latter 1 formed
part. The road leads along the aqueduct by Chapultepec, and
through Tacubaya, and is the high road that goes to Toluca. The
first part, after passing Tacubaya, is steep, bleak, and uninteresting.
Plantations of maguey and occasional clumps of Peruvian trees are

CARMELITE CONVENT. 235
the only vegetation, and Indian huts the only traces of human hfe.
But after a tedious ascent, the view looking back upon Mexico, with
ah her churches, lakes, and mountains, is truly magnificent. The
road also begins to wind through a fertile and wooded country.
About noon we reached an inn, where travellers stop who are going
to Toluca, and where we halted to collect our scattered forces.
Hanging up by a hook in the entry, along with various other dead
animals, polecats, weasels, &c, was the ugliest creature I ever beheld.
It seemed a species of dog, with a hunch back, a head hke a Avolf,
and no neck, a perfect monster. As far as I can make out it must
be the itzcuintepotzotli, mentioned by some old Mexican writers.
The people had brought it up in the house, and killed it on account
of its fierceness. This inn stands in the vahey of Guajimalco, and
is about a league from the Desierto.
There is no longer any road there, but a steep and winding path
through the beautiful woods. Therefore those who had come in
coaches, were now obliged to proceed on donkeys, with Indian
guides. The beauty of the scenery is indescribable. The path
winds, ascending through a wilderness of trees and flowering shrubs,
bathed by a clear and rapid rivulet ; and every now and then, through
the arched forest-trees, are ghmpses of the snowy volcanoes and of
the distant domes and lakes of Mexico.
The ruins of the old Carmehte convent, standing on the slope of
a hill, are surrounded by noble forests of pine, and oak, and cedar;
, long and lofty forest-aisles, where the monks of former days wan-
' dered in peaceful meditation. But they removed from this beautiful
site to another, said to be equally beautiful and wilder, also called the
Desierto, but much farther from Mexico ; and this fertile region
(which the knowing eye of a Yankee would, instantly discover to be
fuh of capabihties in the way of machinery), belongs to no one, and
hes here deserted, in sohtary beauty. Some poor Indians hve
amongst the ruins of the old cloisters, and the wild deer possess the
undisputed sovereignty of the woods.
It is said that a benighted traveller, who had lost his way in these
sohtudes, and was miraculously saved- from dying of cold, founded
this rich convent of Carmehte monks, in gratitude to Heaven for
his dehverance, bequeathing his desire, that all travellers who passed
that way should receive hospitahty from the convent. Certainly no
place more fitted for devotion could have been selected than this
mountain retreat; and when the convent bell tolled at evening, gall
ing the monks to prayer, and wakening the echoes of the silent
hills, its deep notes must have been ah in unison with the solemn
scene. But" the sight of a very magnificent dejeune a la fourchette, spread
under the pine-trees, the uncorking of champagne bottles and
Scotch ale, the savoury odour of soups and fricandeaus, the busthng
attendance of Enghsh waiters, put to flight all romantic fancies. We
remembered that we were hungry, that we had ridden seven miles

236 SCENERY.
and had not breakfasted ; and no order of friars could have done
more justice to the repast than we did. . . . But the component
parts of a party of pleasure must be very curiously selected, the
mosaic of the society very nicely fitted, or it wih ineAritably termi
nate unpleasantly ; and the elements of discord are more dangerous,
their effects more lasting, than even the coughs and colds and rheu
matisms produced by those watery elements, sworn foes to all picnics
and gipsy parties in our foggy island. . . .
About four o'clock we remounted our horses, and retraced our
path through the woods ; and who could ruminate on petty disputes,
or complain of trifling accidents, or not forget any disagreeable in
dividuals who might have been found among our numerous party,
when the splendid panorama of Mexico burst upon us, with ah its
mountains, lakes, and plains, its churches, and towers, and gardens,
bathed in a flood of golden light, the rich crimson clouds of sunset
resting upon the snow of the volcanoes, while the woods through
which our horses picked theh steps, over stones and streamlets, were
fragrant with blossoming shrubs and wild-roses ?
When we reached the inn where the carriages had been left, we
remounted our horses, and as it was growing dusk, and the whole
party had not yet collected together, we thought it advisable for the
equestrian part of the expedition to ride forward ; so leaving the
carriages with their escort, we set off for Mexico; C  n, I, A  ,
and a servant, at full gahop, and hardly drew our bridles tih we
reached the city; tired, as you may suppose, after our fourteen leagues'
ride. 20th. — Our yesterday evening's tertulia was very crowded; and
there was a great deal of music and dancing. These weekly soirees
axe decidedly successful, and the best famihes in Mexico unite there
without etiquette, which we were told it was impossible to bring
about. ...
Perhaps it is that I am getting accustomed to the Mexican style
of face, but it appeared to me that there was a great deal of beauty
assembled; and as for fine voices, they are as common in Mexico as
they are rare in England. . . .
A rich senator, Don B  G  , made a vow to the Virgin
some years ago, that he would cause a splendid mass to be performed
annually, in the cathedral, at his own expense, in honour of our
Saviour's birth, on the morning of Christmas-eve. This mass is
performed entirely by amateurs, most of the young ladies in Mexico,
who have fine voices, taking a part in it. I was drawn in, very un
willingly, to promise to take a trifling part on the harp, the accom
paniment to the Incarnatus.
Preparations have long been going on for this solemnization, and
various rehearsals have taken place amongst the amateur singers, in
the evening, before large audiences in the Mineria. The whole thing
promises weh.
28th. — C  n has gone with Sefior Zurutuza (a Spanish gen-

CHRISTMAS-DAY. 237
tleman), to Cuernavaca, in tierra caliente, to spend a few days at his
estate in the neighbourhood ; which at this season wih be de
lightful. This morning we rode to San Joaquin, where we met the prior
on horseback, on his way to Mexico to confess the old prioress of the
convent of Santa Teresa. He turned back, and accompanied us
during ah the rest of our ride. He rode with us to Tacuba, round
the traces of the ruins, and to the fine old church and dismantled
convent, where we dismounted, and having taken off our riding-
hats, accompanied the prior through the deserted cloisters into the
old church ; arid I imagine we must have looked very picturesque ;
I in my riding-habit, and the sandahed friar in his white robes, kneel
ing side by side, on the broken steps of the altar. He is so pleasant
and weh-informed, that he is a particularly agreeable companion.

LETTER THE THIRTIETH.
Christmas-day— Kalends and Mass— Amateur Performances— Solo— Posadas —
Wandering of the Holy Family — Nacimiento— Crowded Party— French Cooks
—Mexican Cook— State of Household— New Year's Day— Mass— Dirtiness
of the Churches, &c— Comparisons— Private Chapels— English Club— Pre
parations for Journey. 25th.
Christmas-dat ! One year this evening since wemade our
entry into Mexico. What a different aspect every thing has as-
sufned to us in one year ! Then every object was new, every face
that of a stranger. Now we are surrounded by familiar sights and
sounds, and above all by friendly faces. But, though novelty, which
has its charms and also its desagremens, has gone, nothing in Mexico
ever appears commonplace. Every thing is on a large scale, and
every thing is picturesque. Then there is so much interest attached
to its old buildings, so much to see, even though there are no sights
and no show-places, unless we are to put in that class the Mineria,
Museum, Cathedral, University, and Botanic Garden, usually visited
by travellers, that at whatever period we may leave it, I feel con
vinced we shah regret some point of interest, that we have left un-
visited. ...
Some days ago coloured cards, printed in gilt letters, were sent
round, inviting all the Senator's friends to the mass, in this form:—

238 MASS.
" J  e B  o G  a requests that you wih honour him
with your presence and that of your family, in the solemn fimction
of Kalends and Mass, with which he annually makes a humble re-
memberance of the Birth of the Saviour, which festivity will take
place on the morning of the 24th of this month, at nine o'clock, in
the Parish Church of the Sagrario of the Holy Cathedral.
" Mexico, December, 1840."
By nine we were all assembled in the choir ; Don B  o in his
uniform, dark blue and gold, Ave in mantillas. The church looked
very splendid, and, as usual on these occasions, no leperos were ad
mitted ; therefore the crowd was very elegant and select. The
affair went off brilhantly. Four or five of the girls, and several of
the married women, have superb voices; and not one of ah those
who sang in chorus has a bad voice. The finest I almost ever heard
is that of the Senorita C  . Were she to study in Italy, I
venture to predict that she might rival Grisi. Such depth, power,
extension, and sweetness, with such richness of tone in the upper
notes, are very rarely united. She sang a solo in such tones that I
thought the people below must have felt inclined to applaud.
There are others whose voices are much more cultivated, and who
have infinitely more science. I speak only of the raw material.
The orchestra Avas really good, and led by a first-rate musician. I
was thankful when my part of the entertainment was over, and I
could give my undivided attention to the others. The celebration
lasted four hours, but there was rather a long sermon. You Avill
shortly receive a detailed account of the whole, which is to be pub
hshed in the Mexican Annual, cahed " The Ladies' Guide."
In the evening we went to the house of the Marquesa de V  o,
to', spend Christmas-eve. On this night ah the relations and inti
mate friends of each family assemble in the house of the head of the
clan, a real gathering, and in the present case to the number of fifty
or sixty persons.
Tlfis is the last night of what are cahed the Posadas, a curious
mixture of rehgion and amusement, but extremely pretty. The
meaning is this: At the time that the decree went forth from Caesar
Augustus, that " ah the world should be taxed," the Virgin and
Joseph having come out of Gahlee to Judaea to be inscribed for the
taxation, found Bethlehem so fuh of people, who had arrived from
all parts of the world, that they wandered about for nine days,
without finding admittance in any house or tavern, and on the ninth
day took shelter in a manger, where the Saviour was bom. For
eight days this wandering of the Holy Family to the different
Posadas is represented, and seems more intended for an amusement
to the children than any thing serious. We went to the Marquesas
at eight o'clock, and about nine the ceremony commenced. A
lighted taper was put into the hand of each lady, and a procession
was formed, two by two,_ which marched ah through the house, the
corridors and walls of which were ah decorated with evergreens and

CHRISTMAS. 239
lamps, the whole party singing the Litanies. K  walked with
the Dowager Marquesa; and a group of little children, dressed as
angels, joined the procession. They Avore httle robes of silver or
gold lama, plumes of white feathers, and a profusion of fine diamonds
and pearls, in bandeaux, brooches, and necklaces, white gauze wings,
and white satin shoes, embroidered in gold.
At last the procession drew up before a door, and a shower of fire
works was sent flying over our heads, I suppose to represent the
descent of the angels; for a group of ladies appeared, dressed to
represent the shepherds who watched their flocks by night upon the
plains of Bethlehem. Then voices, supposed to be those of Mary
and Joseph, struck up a hymn, in which they begged for admittance,
saying that the night was cold and dark, that the wind blew hard,
and that they prayed for a night's shelter. A chorus of voices from
within refused admittance. Again those without entreated shelter,
and at length declared that she at the door, who thus wandered in the
night, and had not where to lay her head, was the Queen of Heaven!
At this name the doors were thrown wide open, and the Holy
Family entered singing. The scene within was very pretty :_ a
nacimiento. Platforms, going all round the room, were covered with
moss, on which were disposed groups of wax figures, generahy
representing passages from different parts of the New Testament,
though sometimes they begin with Adam and Eve in paradise.
There was the Annunciation — the Salutation of Mary to Elizabeth
— the Wise Men of the East — the Shepherds— the Flight into Egypt.
There were green trees and fruit trees, and httle fountains that cast
up fairy columns of water, and flocks of sheep, and a httle cradle in.
which to. lay the Infant Christ. One of the angels held a waxen
baby in her arms. The whole was hghted very brilhantly, and
ornamented with floAvers and garlands. A padre took the baby from
the angel, and placed it in the cradle, and the posada was completed.
We then returned to the drawing-room — angels, shepherds, and
all, and danced till supper time. The supper was a show for sweet
meats and cakes.
To-day, with the exception of there being service in ah the
churches, Christmas is not kept in any remarkable way. We are
spending this evening alone, and very quietly. To-morrow we have
a soiree. I have letters from C  n, from Cuernavaca, delighted
with the beauties of tierra caliente, and living amongst roses and
¦orange trees. I hope that in January we shall be able togo there,
in case any thing should occur to induce us to leave Mexico before
next Avinter.
27th. — We had a very crowded party last evening, I think the
best we have had yet, a fact which I mention, because I triumph in
my opinion that these weekly parties would succeed in Mexico
haAfing proved correct.
I have lately been' engaged in search of a cook, Avith as much per
tinacity as Japhet in search of his father, and with as httle success as

240 NEW YEAR.
he had in his preliminary inquiries. One, a Frenchman, I found
out had been tried for murder — another was said to be deranged — a
third, who announced himself as the greatest artiste who had yet
condescended to Arisit Mexico, demanded a salary which he con
sidered suitable to his abilities. I tried a female Mexican, in spite
of her flowing hair. She seemed a decent woman and tolerable
cook; and, although our French housekeeper and prime minister had
deserted us at our utmost need, we ventured to leave the house, and
to spend the day at Tacubaya. On our return, found the whole
establishment unable to stand ! Cook tipsy — soldiers ditto — galopine
shghtly intoxicated — in short, the house taking care of itself — no
standing force but the coachman and footman, who have been with
us some time, and appear to be excehent servants. I am, however,
promised a good Mexican housekeeper, and trust that some order
wih be estabhshed under her government; also, a Chinese cook,
with a celestial character. . . .
Letters from Spain, announcing the speedy arrival of a Secretary
of Legation and another attache.
1st January, 1841. — A happy New Year to ah ! We began it by
attending early mass in San Francisco, about the cleanest church in
Mexico, and most frequented by the better classes. There you may
have the good fortune to place yourself between two well-dressed
women, but you are equally hkely to find your neighbour a beggar
with a blanket; besides, the floor is nearly as dirty as that of the
cathedral. This dirtiness is certainly one of the greatest drawbacks
to human fehcity in this beautiful country, degrading the noble
edifices dedicated to the worship of God, destroying the beautiful
works destined for the benefit of his creatures. The streets, the
churches, the theatres, the market-place, the people, ah are con
taminated by this evil. The market-place is indeed fuh of flowers
and green branches and garlands — but those who seh the flowers and
weave the wreaths are so dirty, that the effect of what would other
wise be the prettiest possible picture, is completely destroyed. In
the theatre there is a series of suffocating odours," especiahy in the
dimly-lighted corridors, which is any thing but agreeable. The
custom of kneeling on the floor in church seems fitting and devout,
but there surely can be no reason why the floor of a sacred
building should not be kept scrupulously clean, or why the lower
classes should not be obhged to dress themselves with common
decency. Those who are unable to do so, though probably there
are not hah a dozen people in Mexico who do not wear rags merely
from indolence, should certainly have a place set apart for them, in
which case this air of squalid poverty would no doubt disappear.
On occasion of any peculiar fete, the church is washed and beggars
are excluded, and then indeed these noble edifices seem fitting
temples wherein to worship the Most High.
On other days, in addition to the leperos (especiahy in the cathe
dral), the Indian women are in the habit of bringing their babies and

ORATORIOS. 241
baskets of vegetables to church, and the babies on their part are in
the habit of screaming, as babies wih when they consider themselves
neglected. This may be difficult to amend, the poor woman having
come in from her village, and perforce brought her progeny with
her; but the strong, stout man in rags, who prefers begging to
working — the half-naked woman who would consider herseh de
graded by doing any thing to better her condition, except asking
for alms — the dogs which wander up and down during diAfine ser
vice, — ah these might be brought to order by proper regulations.
Notwithstanding all these drawbacks, I have sometimes compared,
in my own mind, the appearance of a fashionable London chapel
with that of a Mexican church, on the occasion of a solemn fete,
and the comparison is certainly in favour of the latter. The one,
hght, airy, and gay, with its velvet-lined pews, its fashionable
preacher, the ladies a httle sleepy after the last night's opera, but
dressed in the most elegant morning toilet, and casting furtive
glances at Lady  's bonnet and feathers, and at Mrs.  's cash
mere shawl or lovely ermine pehsse, and exchanging a few fashion
able nothings at the door, as the footmen let down the steps of their
gay equipages — the other, solemn, stately, and gloomy, and showing
no distinction of rank. The floor covered with kneeling figures —
some enveloped in the reboso, others in the mantiha, and all ahke
devout, at least in outward seeming. No showy dress, or gay
bonnet, or fashionable mantle to cause the eye of the poor to wander
with envy or admiration. Apparently considering themselves ahke
in the sight of Heaven, the peasant and the Marquesa kneel side by
side, with httle distinction of dress; and all appear occupied with
their own devotions, without observing either their neighbour's
dress or degree of devoutness. Rehgious feehng may be equally
strong in the frequenters of both places of worship; but as long as
we possess senses which can be affected by external objects, the pro
babilities of the most undivided devotional feeling are in favour of
the latter. The eye wih wander — the thoughts wih fohow where
it leads. In the one case it rests on elegant forms and fashionable
toilets — in the other, it sees nothing but a mass of dark and kneel
ing figures, or a representation of holy and scriptural subjects.
However, one consequence of the exceeding dirtiness of the
Mexican churches, and the number of leperos who haunt them, as
much in the way of their calling as from devotion, is that a great part
of the principal famihes here, having oratorios in theh houses, have
engaged the services of a padre, and have mass at home. There is
a smah chapel in the house of General B  a, the handsomest
house in Mexico, where there is a Virgin carved in wood, one of
the most exquisite pieces of sculpture that can be seen. The face
is more than angelic — it is divine; but a divine nature, suffering
mortal anguish.
27th. — On the first of February we hope to set off on an expedition
to tierra caliente, from which C  n returned some time ago. We

242 LEAVE MEXICO.
have, by good fortune, procured an excehent Mexican housekeeper,
under whose auspices every thing has assumed a very different aspect,
and to whose care we can entrust the house when we go. Nothing-re
markable has occurred here lately — the usual routine of riding on
horseback, visiting in carriage, walking very rarely in the Alameda,
driving in the Paseo, dining at Tacubaya, the three weekly soirees,
varied by a diplomatic dinner in the house of the  minister, and
by the dinner of the Enghshclub who met here yesterday — by a sale
of books after dinner, in which the president of the society fined me
five dohars'for keeping a stupid old poem past the time, upon which
I moved that the poem should be presented to me, which was carried
nem. con.
We have been strongly advised not to attempt this journey, and
the stories of robbers and robberies, related by credible persons, are
not encouraging. Robbers, bad roads, horrible heat, poisonous
animals ; many are the difficulties prognosticated to us. The season
is aheady rather advanced, but it has been impossible for us to set
off sooner. Our next letters wih be written either during our
journey, should we find the opportunity, or after our return.

LETTER THE THIRTY-FIRST.
Leave Mexico — Cuemavaca — Tierra Caliente — Atlacamulco — Orange Groves-
Sugar-cane— Annual Produce— Will Fof Cortes— Description— Coffee Plan
tation — Scorpions — List of Venemous Reptiles — Aeapansingo — Doubts and
Difficulties — A Decision. Atlacamulco, February 2d.
A QUIET day in a hospitable country-house, too sunny to go out,
and nothing else to do, are temptations sufficient to induce me to sit
down and give you an account of our proceedings during these last
two days. Yesterday, the first of February, at four in the morning,
very sleepy, we set off in the diligence which we had taken for our
selves; our sole luggage, two portmanteaus and a carpet bag; our
dresses, dark strong calico goAvns, large Panama hats, rebosos tied
on hke scarfs, and. thick green barege veils. A government escort
of four soldiers Avith a corporal, renewed four times, accompanied us
as far as Cuernavaca,_ which is about eighteen leagues from Mexico,
and the entrance as it were to tierra caliente. These are supposed
sufficient to frighten away three times the number of robbers, Avhose

CUERNAVACA. 243
daring, however, has got- to such a height, that no diligence now
arrives from Puebla without being robbed. Six robberies have hap
pened there in the last fortnight, and the road to Cuernavaca is
said to be still more dangerous. We took chocolate .before start
ing, and carried with us a basket of cold meat and wine, as there is
nothing" on the road that can be cahed an inn. When we set off it
was cool, almost cold ; the astral lamps were out, and the great solar
lamp was not yet hghted.
" But soon, like lobster boiled, the morn,
From black to red began to turn."
By the time we had reached San Agustin, where we changed
horses, the sun had risen, enabling us to see ah the horrors of the
road, which, after leaving that beautiful vihage with its trees and
gardens, winds over the mountain, amongst great volcanic rocks, a
toilsome ascent; and passes by the vihage of Ajusco, a miserable
robber's nest. Yet the view, as we looked back from this barren
tract, while the sun was breaking over the summits of the moun
tains, was very grand in its mixture of fertihty and wildness, in its
vast extent of plains and villages with their groves and gardens, and
in its fine view of Mexico itself, white and glittering in the distance.
The mountain of Ajusco, clothed with dark forests of pine, frowned
on our right, and looked worthy of its brigand haunted reputation.
At La Guarda, a cohection of miserable huts, we changed horses,
and dechned some suspicious-looking frijoles in dirty saucers, which
were offered to us ; a proof both that we were young travellers in
this country, and that we had not exhausted our basket of civihzed
provender. The road wound round through a succession of rocks and woods
tih we reached Cruz del Marques — the Marquis being of course
Cortes, while the cross, it is said, was planted there by him to mark
the limits of his territory, or rather of that which the Indian Em- v
peror had assigned him. About two o'clock, the heat became in
tense, and we began to see and to feel symptoms of our approach to
tierra caliente.
We arrived at the Indian vihage of Huichilaque, which is rather
pretty, with cane cottages and a good many flowering trees ; and
from the eminence on which it is situated, the hot land is visible.
The diligence now began galloping down the rocky and stony
descent. The country looked even more arid than before; the vege
tation more dried up. Not a tree — but here and there, at long inter
vals, a feathery cocoa or a palm, and occasionahy some beautiful, un
known wild flowers. But the heat, the dust, the jolting ! When at
length we rattled through Cuernavaca, and stopped before the quiet-
looking inn, it was with joy that we bade adieu, for some time at
least, to ah diligences, coaches, and carriages; having to trust for the
future to four-legged conveyances, which we can guide as we please.
Cuernavaca (coio's horn), the ancient Quauhnahuac, was one of the
S

244 ATLACAMULCO.
thirty cities which Charles the Fifth gave to Cortes, and afterwards
formed part of the estates of the Duke of Monteleone, representative
of the family of Cortes, as Marquis of the Valley of Oajaca. It was
celebrated by the ancient writers for its beauty, its dehghtful climate,
and the strength of its situation ; defended on one side by steep
mountains, and on the other by a precipitous ravine, through which
ran a stream which the Spaniards crossed by means of two great
trees that had thrown theh branches across the barranca, and formed
a natural bridge. It was the capital of the Tlahuica nation, and,
after the conquest, Cortes built here a splendid palace, a church, and
a convent of Franciscans, believing that he had laid the foundation
of a great city. And in fact, its dehcious chmate, the abundance of
the water, the minerals said to exist in the neighbourhood, its fine
trees, dehcious fruits, and vicinity to the capital, ah combined to
render it a flourishing city. It is, however, a place of httle import-*
ance, though so favoured by nature ; and the conqueror's palace is a
hah-ruined barrack, though a most picturesque object, standing on a
hill, behind which starts up the great white volcano. There are
some good houses, and the remains of the church which Cortes built,
celebrated for its bold arch ; but we were too tired to walk about
much, and waited most anxiously for the arrival of horses and men
from the sugar estate of Don Anselmo Zurutuza, at Atlacamulco,
where we were to pass the night. The house where the diligence
stopped was formerly remarkable for the fine garden attached to it,
and belonged to a wealthy proprietor. We sat down amongst the
fruit trees, by the side of a clear tank, and waited there till the arrival
of our horses and guides. It was nearly dusk when they came — the
sun had gone down, the evening Avas cool and agreeable, and after
much kicking and spurring and loading of mules and barking of
dogs, we set off over hill and dale, through pretty wild scenery, as
far as we could distinguish by the faint hght, chmbing hills and
crossing streams for two leagues ; tih at length the fierce fires, pour
ing from the sugar oven chimneys of Atlacamulco, gave lis notice
that we were near our haven for the night. We galloped into the
court-yard, amongst dogs and negroes and Indians, and were hospi
tably received by the administrator, (the agent). Greatly were we
divided between sleep and hunger ; but hunger gained the victory,
and an immense smoking supper received our most distinguished
attention. This morning, after a refreshing sleep, we rose and dressed at eight
o'clock — late hours for tierra caliente — and then Avent out into the
coffee plantation and orange walk. Any thing so lovely ! The orange
trees were covered with their golden fruit and fragrant blossom ; the
lemon trees, bending over, formed a natural arch, which the sun
could not pierce. We laid ourselves down on the soft grass, con
trasting this day with the preceding. The air was soft and balmy,
and actually heavy with the fragrance of the orange blossom and
starry jasmine. Ah round the orchard ran streams of the most deli-

SUGAR-CANE. 245
cious clear water, trickling with sweet music, and now and then a
httle cardinal, hke a bright red ruby, would perch on the trees. We
puhed bouquets of orange blossom, jasmine, lilies, double red roses,
and lemon leaves, and wished we could have transported them to
you, to those lands where winter is now wrapping the world in his
white winding-sheet.
The gardener, or coffee-planter — such a gardener ! — Don Juan by
name, with an immense black beard, Mexican hat, and mihtary sash
of crimson silk, came to offer us some orangeade ; and having sent
to the house for sugar and tumblers, pulled the oranges from the
trees, and drew the water from a clear tank overshadowed by blos
soming branches, and cold as though it had been iced. There cer
tainly- is no tree more beautiful than the orange, with its golden
fruit, shining green leaves and lovely white blossom with so dehcious
,a fragrance. We felt this morning as if Atlacamulco was an earthly
paradise. It belongs in fact to the Duke of Monteleone, and is let by his
agent, Don Lucas Alaman, to Seiior Zurutuza. Its average annual ,/
produce of sugar is about thirty thousand arrobas, (an arroba con
taining twenty-five pounds). The sugar cane was unknown to the
ancient Mexicans, who made syrup of honey, and also from the
maguey, and sugar from the stalk of maize. The sugar-cane was
introduced by the Spaniards from the Canary Islands to Santo Do
mingo, from whence it passed to Cuba and Mexico. The first sugar
canes were planted in 1520, by Don Pedro de Atienza. The first
-cylinders were constructed by Gonzalo de Velosa, and the first sugar
mills built by the Spaniards at that time were worked by hydraulic
wheels and not by horses. M. de Humboldt, who examined the
will of Cortes, informs us that the conqueror had left sugar planta- ^
tions near Cuyoacan, in the vahey of Mexico, where now, owing, it ,
is supposed, to the cutting down of the trees, the cold is too great !,
for sugar cane or any other tropical production to thrive. There are
few negroes on these sugar plantations. Their numbers have not in- ,
creased since their introduction. We observed but one old negro, j
•said to be upwards of a hundred, who was working in the courtyard
as we passed ; the generahty of the workmen are Indians.
As for the interior of these haciendas, they are all pretty much
ahke, so far as we have seen ; a great stone building, which is
neither farm nor country-house (according to our notions), but has a
character peculiar to itself — sohd enough to stand a siege, with floors
of painted brick, large deal tables, wooden benches, painted chairs,
and whitewashed wahs; one or two painted or iron bedsteads, only
put up when wanted; numberless empty rooms ; kitchen and out
houses; the courtyard a great square, round which stand the house
for boiling the sugar, whose furnaces blaze day and night; the house, ^
with machinery for extracting the juice from the cane, the refining
rooms, the places where it is dried, &c, ah on a large scale. If the
hacienda is, as here, a coffee plantation also, then there is the great
S2

246 VENOMOUS REPTILES.
mih for separating the beans from the chaff, and sometimes also there
are buildings where they make brandy. Here there are four hun
dred men employed, exclusive of boys, one hundred horses, and a
number of mules. The property is generahy very extensive, con
taining the fields of sugar-cane, plains for cattle, and the pretty plan
tations of coffee, so green and spring-like, this one containing up
wards of fifty thousand young plants, ah fresh and vigorous, besides
a great deal of uncultivated ground, abandoned to the deer and hares
and quails, of which there are great abundance. For four months in
the year, tierra caliente must be a paradise, and it has the advantage
over the coasts, in being quite free from yehow fever. But the heat
in summer, and the number of poisonous insects, are great draw
backs. Of these, the alacrans, or scorpions, which haunt ah the
houses, are amongst the worst. Theh bite is poisonous, and, to a
child, deadly, which is one of the many reasons why these estates
are left entirely to the charge of an agent, and though visited occa
sionahy by the proprietor, rarely lived in by the family. The effects
are more or less violent in different constitutions. ( Some persons will
remain for eight days in convulsions, foaming at the mouth, and the
stomach swelled, as if by dropsy ; others, by immediate remedies,
do not suffer much. The chief cures are brandy, taken in sufficient '
quantities to stupify the patient, guyacum and boiled silk, which
last is considered most efficacious. In, Durango they are particularly
numerous and venomous, so that a reward is given for so many head
of scorpions to the boys there, to encourage them to destroy them.
The Sefiora  , who lives there, feels no inconvenience from their
bite, but the scorpion who bites her immediately dies ! It is pre
tended that they prefer dark people to fair, which is to suppose them
very discriminating. Though as yet there have been few seen in
the houses, I must confess that we feel rather uneasy at night, and
scrupulously examine our beds and their environs before venturing
to go to sleep. The wahs being purposely whitewashed, it is not
difficult to detect them ; but where the roofs are formed of beams,
they are very apt to drop through.
There are other venomous reptiles, for whose sting there is no re
medy, and if you would hke to have a hst of these interesting crea
tures, according to the names by which they are known in these
parts, I can furnish you with one from the best authority. These,
hoAvever, are generally to be found about outhouses, and only occa
sionally visit your apartments. There is the chicaclina, a striped
viper, of beautiful colours — the coralillo, a viper of a coral colour,
with a black head— the vinagrillo, an animal like a large cricket.
You can discover it, when in the room, by its strong smell of vine
gar. It is orange-coloured, and taps upon the person whom it
crawls over, without giving _ any pain, but leaving a long train of
deadly poison — I have fancied that I smelt vinegar in every room
since hearing this — the salamanquesa, Avhose bite is fatal: it is
shaped like a lizard — the eslaboncillo, which throws itself upon you,

ACAPANSINGO. 247
and if prevented from biting you, dies of spite — the cencoatl, which
has five feet, and shines in the dark; so that fortunately a Avarning
is given of the vicinity of these animals in different Avays ; in some
by the odour they exhale, in sonie by the hght they emit, and in
others, hke the rattlesnake, by the sound they give out.
Then there is a beautiful black and red spider, called the chincla-
quili, whose sting sends a pain through ah your bones ; the only cure
for which is to be shut up for several days in a room thick with
smoke. There are also the tarantula, and casampulga spiders. Of
the first, which is a shocking looking soft fat creature, covered with
dark hair, it is said, that the horse which treads on it, instantly loses
its hoof — but this wants confirmation. Of the scorpions, the small
yellowish-coloured ones are the most dangerous, and it is pretended
that their bite is most to be apprehended at midday. The work
men occasionally eat them, after pulling out the sting. The flesh
of the viper is also eaten roasted, as a remedy against eruptions of
the skin. Methinks the remedy is worse than the disease. . . .
But to banish this a-eeping subject, which seems not at ah in
unison with the lovely scenes that surround us — an Eden where no
serpent should enter — we have been riding this evening to a beauti
ful little Indian Arillage called Acapansingo, than which I never be
held any thing prettier in its way. Some few houses there are of
stone, but the generahty are of cane, and each cottage is surrounded
by its fruit-trees, and by others covered with hlac or white blossoms,
and twined with creepers. The lanes or streets of the village arecleanly
swept, and shaded by the blossoming branches that overhang them ;
while every now and then they are crossed by httle streams of the
purest water. I think I never knew what really dehcious water was
till I came here. The Indians, both men and women, looked clean,
and altogether this is the prettiest Indian village Ave have yet seen.
- As we are very anxious to visit the celebrated cave of Cacaua-
milpa, near the city of Cautlamilpa, and also to see as much of tierra
caliente as possible, we have determined, though with regret, to
leave our pleasant quarters at Atlacamulco to-morroAV morning, _ at
two o'clock, A. M. As there are no inns, we are furnished with
letters of recommendation to the proprietors of the chief haciendas
in these parts. Formerly, there was so much hospitahty here that
an annual sum (three thousand dollars it is said) was assigned by
the proprietors to their agents, for the reception of travellers, whether
rich or poor, and whether recommended or not. . . .
Our plan of visiting the cave has been nearly frustrated by the
arrival of General C  s, a neighbouring proprietor, v/ho assured
us that we were going to undertake an impossibility ; that the bar
rancas, by which we must pass to arrive at the cave, were impassable
for women, the mountain paths being so steep and perpendicu
lar, that men and horses had frequently fallen backwards m the
ascent, or been plunged forward over the precipices, in attempting to
descend. We were in despair, when it was suggested that there was

248 TROPICAL TREES.
another, though much longer road to the cave, by which we might
ride; and though our time is at present very precious, we were too
glad to agree to this compromise.
C  n and A  have returned from a shooting expedition, in
which they have not been very successful; and though I have only
recounted to you the beginning of our adventures, I must stop
here, and take a few hours' rest before we set off on our matinal ex
pedition.

LETTER THE THIRTY-SECOND.
Leave Atlacamulco — Assemble by Starlight — Balmy Atmosphere — Flo were and
Trees of the Tropics — The Formidable Barrancas — Breakfast under the
Trees — Force of the Sun — Meacatlan — Hospitality — Profitable Estate-
Leave Meacatlan — Beautiful Village — Musical Bells — Ride by Moonlight-
Sugar Fires — Cocoyotla — Old Gentleman — Supper — Orange Trees and Co-.
coas — Delicious Water — Sugar Estates — A Scorpion — Set off for the Cave
— Morning Ride — Dangerous Path. Cocoyotla, 5th.
On the morning of the third of February, we rose about half-
past two, and a httle after three, by the hght of the stars and the
blaze of the sugar fires, our Avhole party were assembled on horse
back in the courtyard. We were about twelve in number. Don
Juan, the coffee-planter, and Don Pedro, a friend of his, were de
puted by the agent to act as our guides. Four or five well-armed
mozos, farm-servants, were our escort, together with our Mexican boy;
and we had mules to carry our luggage, which was compressed into
the smahest possible compass. The morning was perfectly enchanting,
and the air hke balm, when we set off by this uncertain hght; not
on roads (much to our satisfaction), but through fields, and over
streams, up hills and down into valleys, chmbing among stones, the
horses picking their way hke goats. I certainly never felt or ima
gined such an atmosphere. The mere inhaling it was sufficient
pleasure. When the light graduahy began to dawn, so that we could dis
cern each other's faces, and make sure that we were not a party of
shadows, for besides the obscurity, a mixture of sleepiness and
placid dehght had hitherto kept us ah silent, we looked round on
the landscape, as httle by little it assumed form and consistency.

FORMIDABLE BARRANCAS. 249
The fires from the hacienda were stih visible, but growing pale in
the beams of morning, vanishing hke false visions from before the
holy hght of truth. As we rode along, we found that the scenery
on the hihy parts was generally bleak and sterile, the grass dried up,
and very httle vegetation ; but wherever we arrived at a valley
sheltered from the sun's rays, there we found a httle rivulet trickhng
through it, with water hke hquid diamonds, bathing the trees and
the flowers — the lovehest blossoming trees, mingled with bananas,
oranges, and lemons, and interspersed with bright flowers, forming
a natural garden and orchard.
One tree, with no leaves on it, is covered with white starry
flowers, and looks at a distance as if it had been covered with snow,
which had melted off the branches, leaving only occasional white
tufts. Another is bending with hlac blossoms, which hang in grace
ful clusters — another with flowers hke yehow bahs. Then there
are scarlet wild flowers, that seem as if they were made of wax or
shining coral, and quantities of white jasmine, trailing on the grass,
and throwing itself over the branches of the trees. There is one
beautiful tree, with flowers hke immense white hhes, and buds that
look hke shut hly blossoms in white wax.
Leaving these beautiful and fertile lands that adorn the slopes and
bases of the hills, you mount again up the steep paths, and again
you find the grass dried up, and no vegetation but stunted nopals or
miserable-looking blue-green magueys. Yet sometimes in the most
desert spot, a httle sheltered by a projecting hill, you come upon the
most beautiful tree, bending with rich blossoms, standing ah alone,
as if through ambition it had deserted its lowly sisters in the vahey,
and stood, in its exalted station, solitary and companionless.
As for the names of these tropical trees, they are almost ah In
dian, and it is only botanically that they can be properly distin
guished. There is the fioripundio, with white odoriferous flowers
hanging hke bells from its branches, with large pointed, pale-green
leaves — the yollojochiil, signifying flower of the heart, like white
stars with yehow hearts, which when shut have the form of one, and
the fragrance of which is dehcious — the izguijochiil, whose flowers
look hke smah white musk roses — another with a long Indian name,
and which means the flower of the raven, and is white, red, and
yehow. The Indians use it to adorn their altars, and it is very
fragrant as weh as beautiful.
After six hours good riding, our guides pointed out to us the
formidable barrancas at some distance, and expressed theh opinion,
that, with great caution, our horses being very sure-footed, we might
venture to pass them, by which means we should save three leagues,
and be enabled to reach an hacienda within six leagues of the cave
that night ; and after some deliberation, it was agreed that the
attempt should be made. These barrancas (the word hterahy
means a ravine or mountain gully) are two mountains, one behind
the other, which it is necessary to cross by a narrow path, that looks

250 MEACATLAN.
hke a road for goats. We began the ascent in silence, and some
fear, one by one, till the horses were nearly perpendicular. It lasted
about twenty minutes ; and we then began to descend slowly, cer
tainly not without some danger of being thrown over our horses'
heads. However, we arrived in safety at the end of the first moun
tain, and this being accomplished, drew up to rest our horses and
mules beside a beautiful clear stream, bordered by flowering trees.
Here some clear-headed individual of the party proposed that we
should open our hamper, containing cold chicken, hard eggs, sherry,
&c. ; observing, that it was time to be hungry. His suggestion was
agreed to Avithout a dissenting voice, and a napkin being spread
under a shady tree, no time was lost in proA'ing the truth of his
observation. A very ingenious contrivance for making a wine-glass,
by washing an egg-shell in the stream, is worthy of record. When
we had demolished the cold chicken, the mozos surrounded the
cold meat, and after gathering branches covered with beautiful
flowers, Avith which we ornamented our horses' heads and our oato
hats, we prepared to ascend the second mountain. This is as steep, or
nearly as steep, as the first ; but we were already confident in the sure-
footedness of our horses, and even able to admire the view as we
ascended single file. After much rain, this path must of course be
completely impassable. The day had noAv become oppressively
warm, though it Avas not later than eleven o'clock ; and having
passed the hills, Ave came to a dusty high road, which, about twelve,
brought us to the hacienda of Meacatlan, belonging to the family
of Perez Palacio. We were overtaken on the road by the eldest
son of the proprietor, who cordially invited us in, and introduced us
to the ladies of his family, and to his father, a fine, noble-looking
old gentleman. As we were excessively tired, hot, and dusty, we
were very glad to spend a few hours here during the heat of the
sun ; and after joining the family at breakfast, consisting of the
most extraordinary variety of excellent dishes, with a profusion of
fine fruits and curious sweetmeats, (amongst which was that ethereal-
looking production, cahed angel's hair, cabello de angel,) we were
glad to he down and rest till four o'clock.
This hacienda is Arery productive and valuable, and has a silver
mine on it.
There is also every variety of fine fruit, especially the largest
cedrats I ever saw ; which, although they have not a great deal of
flavour, are very refreshing. With all their beauty and fertility,
there is something very lonely in a residence on these estates, which
are so entirely shut out of the world ; not so much for the proprie
tors themselves, who are occupied in the care of their interests, but
for the female part of the family.
We left tlfis hospitable mansion about four o'clock, rested and re
freshed, the proprietor giving K  a horse of his, instead of her
own, which was tired. The sun was still powerful, Avhen we and
our train remounted, but the evening had become delightfully cool,

COCOYOTLA. 251
by the time that we had reached the beautiful village of San Fran
cisco de Tetecala, lying amongst wooded hills, its white houses
gleaming out from amidst the orange trees, with a small river crossed
by bridges running through it. Many of the houses were tolerably
large and well built. It was a fete-day, and the musical bells ring
ing merrily ; the people were clean and well dressed, and were as
sembled in crowds in an enclosure, looking at a bull-fight, which
must be hot work in this chmate, both for man and beast. .
But when the moon rose serenely, and without a cloud, and a soft
breeze, fragrant with orange blossom, blew gently over the trees, I
felt as if we might have rode on for ever, without fatigue, and in a
state of the most perfect enjoyment. It were hard to say whether the
first soft breath of morning, or the languishing and yet more fragant.
airs of evening were most enchanting. Sometimes we past through
a village ofjcattered Indian huts, Avith httle fires of sticks hghted in
their courts, glowisg on the bronze faces of the women and children;
and at the sound of our horses' hoofs, a chorus of dogs, yelping with
most discordant fury, would give us loud notice of their total disap
probation of all night travellers. Sometimes a decided smell of boiled
sugar was mingled with the fragrance of the orange blossom and
jasmine; reminding us of those happy days of yore, when the house
keeper, in all her glory, was engaged in making her annual stock of
jellies and jams.
Once we were obhged to dismount, that our horses might make an
ugly leap over a great ditch guarded by thorny bushes, and amongst
trees where the moon gave us no light.
About ten o'clock symptoms of weariness began to breakout amongst
us, spite of moonbeams and orange-buds; when down in a vahey we
saw the sugar fires of Cocoyotla, the hacienda to which we trusted for
our next place of shelter, darting out their fierce red tongues amongst
the trees. We knocked for admittance at the great gate, and it was
some time before the people within would undo the fastenings, which
they did with great caution, and after carefully reconnoitring us ; after
wards giving for excuse, that a party of thirty robbers had passed by
the night before, and that they thought we might have been some of
these night-exxaxits. We sent in our credentials to the proprietor, an
old gentleman married to a young Avife, who, hving on the road to the
cave, is by no means pleased at his house being turned into a posada
for all and sundry, and complained bitterly of a party of Englishmen
who had passed by some time before, " and the only Spanish word
they could say, was Voter, by which they meant Agua, Caramba 1"
However, he was very hospitable to us, and pressed us to remain
there the fohowing day, and rest ourselves and our horses after our
fourteen leagues march, previous to going on to the cave.
A very good supper and a very sound sleep were refreshing, and
the whole of the next day we spent in wandering about or sitting
lazily amongst the magnificent orange trees and cocoas or this fine
hacienda. Here the orange trees are the loftiest we had yet seen ;
long ranges of noble trees, loaded with fruit and flowers. At the

252 THE DANGEROUS PATH.
back of the house is a smah grove of cocoas, and a clear running
stream passing through beautiful flowers, and refreshing every
thing in its course. Indeed ah through tierra caliente, except on
the barren hills, there is a profusion of the most dehcious water,
here at once a necessity and a luxury.
These sugar estates are under high cultivation, the crops abundant,
the water always more than sufficient both for the purposes of irri
gation and for machinery, which A  considers equal to any
thing he has seen in Jamaica. They produce annually from thirty
to fifty thousand arrobas of sugar. The labourers are free Indians,
and are paid from two and a hah to six and a hah reals per day. I
beheve that about one hundred and fifty are sufficient for working
on a large estate. Bountiful nature, walking on the traces of civil
war, fills up the ravages caused by sanguinary revolutions, and these
estates in the vahey of Cuernavaca, which have so frequently been
theatres of bloodshed, and have so often changed proprietors, remain
in themselves as fertile and productive as ever.
In the evening we Aasited the trapiche, as they cah the sugar-works,
the sugar-boilers, warehouses, store-rooms, and engines. The heat
is so intense among these great boilers, that we could not endure it
for more than a few minutes, and pitied the men who have to spend
theh hves in this work. They make panoja on this estate, cakes of
coarse sugar, which the common people prefer to the refined sugar.
Just as we were preparing to retire for the night, an animal on
the wah attracted our attention, close by K-  's bed — and, gentle
reader ! it was a scorpion ! We gave a simultaneous cry, which
brought Sefior  into the room, who laughed at our fears, and
kihed our foe; when lo ! just as our fright had passed away, another,
a yellowish-coloured, venomous-looking creature, appeared stealing
along the wah. The lady of the house came this time, and ordered
the room and the beds to be searched. No more could be discovered,
but it was difficult to sleep in peace after such an apparition.
At three the next morning we rose, and set off by moon and star
light for the cave. The morning was lovely as usual, and quite
cool. We passed a great deal of barren and hilly road, tih we reached
some plains, where we had a delightful gahop, and arrived early
at _ a smah rancho, or farmhouse, where we were to procure
guides for the cave. Here we added four Indians, and the
master of the house, Benito, to our party, which was after
wards increased by numbers of men and boys, till we formed a
perfect regiment. This httle rancho, with its smah garden, was
very clean and neat. The woman of the house told us she had seen
no ladies since an Enghsh Ministra had slept there two nights. We
concluded_ that this must have been Mrs. Ashburnham, who spent
two days in exploring the cave. We continued our ride over loose
Stones, and dry, rocky hills, where, were the horses not sure-footed,
and used to climb, the riders' necks would no doubt suffer. Within
about a quarter of a mile of the cave, after leaving on our right the
pretty village of Cautlamilpas, we found ourselves in a place which

THE CAVE. 253
I consider much more dangerous than even the barrancas near
Meacatlan ; a narrow path, overhanging a steep precipice, and bor
dering a perpendicular hih, with just room for the horses' feet, afford
ing the comfortable assurance that one false step would precipitate
you to the bottom. I confess to having held my breath, as one by
one, and step by step, no one looking, to the right or the left, our
gowns occasionahy catching on a bush, with our whole train we
wound slowly down this narrow descent. Arrived near the mouth
of the cave, we dismounted, and chmbed our way among stones and
gravel to the great mountain opening. But an account of the cave
itself must be reserved tih our return to Atlacamulco.

LETTER THE THIRTY-THIRD.
Cave of Cacahuamilpa — Superstition — Long-bearded Goat — Portal — Vestibule
— Fantastic Forms — Breakfast — Pine Torches — Noble Hall — Stalactites and
Stalagmites — Egyptian Pyramids — Double Gallery — Wonderful Formations
— Corridor — Frozen Landscape — Amphitheatre — World in Chaos — Skeleton
— Wax Lights — Hall of Angels — Return — Distant Light — Indian — Alcalde
— Cautlamilpas — Rancho — Return to Cocoyotla — Chapel — Meacatlan—
Eclipse of the Moon — Benighted Travellers — Indian Village — El Puente —
Return to Atlacamulco. Atlacamulco, 7th.
The cave of Cacahuamilpa, whose actual wonders equal the
fabled descriptions of the palaces of Genii, was, until lately, known
to the Indians alone, or if the Spaniards formerly knew any thing
about it, its existence was forgotten amongst them. But although
in former days it may have been used as a place of worship, a super
stitious fear prevented the more modern Indians from exploring its
shining recesses, for here it was firmly believed the evil spirit had
his dwelhng, and. in the form of a goat, with long beard and horns,
guarded the entrance of the cavern. The few who ventured there
and beheld this apparition, brought back strange tales to their cre
dulous companions, and even the neighbourhood of the enchanted
cave was avoided, especiahy at nightfall.
The chain of mountains, into whose bosom it leads, is bleak and
bare, but the ravine below is refreshed by a rapid stream, that forms
smah waterfalls as it tumbles over the rocks, and is bordered by
green and flowering trees. Amongst these, is one with a smooth,
satin-like bark, of a pale golden colour, whose roots have something

254 FANTASTIC FORMS.
snakish and witch-like in their appearance, intertwining with each
other, grappling as it were with the hard rock, and stretching out
to the most extraordinary distance.
We arrived at the entrance of the cave, a superb portal, upwards
of seventy feet high, and one hundred and fifty wide, according to
the computation of a learned traveller — the rocks which support the
great arch so symmetrically disposed as to resemble a work of art,
The sun was aheady high in the heavens, shining with intense
brightness on the wild scenery that surrounded us, the rocks and
trees and rushing waters; a sensation of awe came over us as we
stood at the mouth of the cave, and, turning from dayto night,
strained our eyes to look down a deep descent into a gigantic vaulted
hall, faintly hghted by the red embers of a fire which the Indians
had kindled near the entrance. We made our way down a dechvity
of, it may be, one hundred and fifty feet, surrounded by blocks of
stone and rock, and remained lost in astonishment at finding our
selves in this gloomy subterranean palace, surrounded by the most
extraordinary, gigantic, and mysterious forms, which it is scarcely
possible to believe are the fantastic productions of the water which
constantly trickles from the roof.
I am shocked to confess it — I would prefer passing it over — but
we had tasted nothing that morning, and we had rode for eight
hours, and were dying of hunger ! Moreover we travelled vvith a
cook, a very tolerable native artist, but without sentiment — his
heart in his stew-pan ; and he, without the least compunction, had
begun his frying, and broihng operations in what seemed the very
vestibule of Pharaoh's palace. Our own mozos and our Indian guides
were assisting his operations with the utmost zeal ; and in a few
minutes, some sitting round the fire, and others upon broken pyra
mids, we refreshed ourselves Avith fried chicken, bread, and hard
eggs, before proceeding farther on our exploring expedition. Unro-
mantic as this proceeding was, we looked, Indians and all, rather
awful, with no other hght than the ruddy glare of the fire, flickering
upon the strange, gigantic forms in that vast labyrinth; and as to
what we felt, our valour and strength of mind were increased
sevenfold. Twenty-four huge pine torches were then lighted, each man
carrying one. To K  and me Avcre given hghted wax candles,
in case by accident any one should go astray from his companions,
and lose his way, as Avould too certainly happen, in the different
windings and galleries and compartments of the cave, and be alone
in the darkness ! We walked on in awe and wonder, the guides
lighting up the sides of the cavern with their torches. Unfortu
nately, it is indescribable ; as in the fantastic forms of the clouds,
every one sees some different creation of his fancy in these stupen
dous masses. It is said that the first gala, for travellers have pre
tended to divide it into halls, and a very httle imagination may do so,
is about two hundred feet long, one hundred and seventy wide, and

FROZEN LANDSCAPE. 255
one hundred and fifty in height — a noble apartment. The walls are
shaded with different colours of green and orange ; great sheets of
stalactites hang from the roof; and white phantoms, palm trees,
lofty pillars, pyramids, porches, and a thousand other illusions, sur
round us on ah sides. One figure, concerning which ah agree, is a
long-haired goat, the Evil One in that form. But some one has
broken the head, perhaps to show the powerlessness of the enchanted
•guardian of the cave. Some say that there are no living animals
here, but there is no doubt that there are bats; and an exploring
party, who passed the night here, not only heard the hissing of the
rattlesnake, but were startled by the apparition of a fierce leopard,
whose loud roarings were echoed amongst the vaults, and who, after
gazing at them by the hght of the torches, .stalked majestically back
into the darkness.
We passed on into the second sala, collecting as we went frag
ments of the shining stones, our awe and astonishment increasing at
every step. Sometimes we seemed to be in a subterranean Egyptian
temple. The architecture was decidedly Egyptian, and the strange
forms of the animals resembled those of the uncouth Egyptian idols;
which, together with the pyramids and obehsks, made me think,
that perhaps that ancient people took the idea of their architecture
and of many of their strange shapes from some natural cave of this
description, just as nature herself suggested the idea of the beautiful
Corinthian pillar.
Again, we seemed to enter a tract of country which had been •
petrified. Fountains of congealed water, trees hung with frozen
moss, pillars covered with gigantic acanthus leaves, pyramids of
ninety feet high losing their lofty heads in the darkness of the vault,
and looking hke works of the pre- Adamites ; yet no being but He
who inhabits eternity could have created them. This second hah,
as lofty as the other, may be nearly four hundred feet in length.
We then passed into a sort of double gallery, separated by enor
mous pyramidal formations — stalagmites, those which are formed by
water dropping on the earth. The ground was damp, and occa
sionally great drops trickled on our heads from the vaults above.
Here Gothic shrines, odd figures; some that look hke mummies,
others hke old men with long beards, appal us hke figures thatwe
see in some wild dream. These are intermingled with pyramids,
obehsks, baths that seem made of the purest alabaster, &c. A number
¦of smah round balls, petrifactions of a dead white, lie about here,
forming httle hollows in the ground. Here the cave is very wide —
about two hundred feet, it is said.
When we left this double gahery, we came to another vast cor^
ridor, supported by lofty pillars, covered with creeping plants, but
especiahy with a row of the most gigantic cauliflowers, each leaf
dehcately chiseled, and looking hke a fitting food for the colossal
dwellers of the cavern. But to attempt any thing hke a regular
description is out of the question. We gave ourselves up to admi-

256 SKELETON.
ration, as our torches flashed upon the masses of rock, the hills
crowned with pyramids, the congealed torrents that seem to belong
to winter at the north pole, and the lofty Doric columns that bring
us back to the pure skies of Greece. But amongst ah these curious
accidents produced by water, none is more curiously exquisite than
an amphitheatre, with regular benches, surmounted by a great organ,
whose pipes, when struck, give forth a deep sound. It is really
difficult not to beheve that some gigantic race once amused them
selves in these petrified solitudes, or that we have not invaded the
sanctuary of some mysterious and superhuman beings. It is said
that this cavern has been explored for four leagues, and yet that no
exit has been discovered. As for us, I do not know how far we
went : our guides said a league. It seemed impossible to think of
time when we looked at these great masses, formed drop by drop,
slowly and rarely and at distant intervals falling, and looked back
upon the ages that must have elapsed since these gigantic formations
began. At length, on account of the loose stones, the water, and the
masses of crystal rock that we had to climb over, our guides strongly
recommended us to return. It was difficult to turn away our eyes
from the great unformed masses that now seemed to fill the cave as far
as the eye could reach. It looked hke the world in chaos — nature's
vast workshop, from which she drew the materials which her hand
was to reduce to form and order. We retraced our steps slowly and
lingeringly through these subterranean palaces, feeling that one day
was not nearly sufficient to explore them, yet thankful that we had
not left the country without seeing them. The skeleton of a man
was discovered here by some travellers, lying on his side, the head
nearly covered with crystallization. He had probably entered these
labyrinths alone, either from rash curiosity or to escape from pursuit;
lost his way and perished from hunger. Indeed, to find the way
back to the entrance of the cave is nearly impossible, without some
clue to guide the steps amongst these winding galleries, hahs, and
issues, and entries, and ohvided corridors.
Though there are some objects so striking that they may imme
diately be recognised, such as the amphitheatre for instance, "there is
a monotony even in the variety ! and I can imagine the unfortunate
man wandering amongst obehsks and pyramids and alabaster baths
and Grecian columns — amongst frozen torrents that could not
assuage his thirst, and trees with marble fruit and fohage, and
crystal vegetables that mocked his hunger; and pale phantoms with
long hah and figures in shrouds, that could not reheve his distress
— and then his cries for help, where the voice gives out an echo, as
if ah the pale dwellers in the cave answered in mockery — and then,
his torch becoming extinguished, and he lying down exhausted and
in despair near some inhospitable marble porch, to die.
As we went along, our guides had chmbed up and placed wax
candles on the top of ah the highest points, so that their pale glim-

CUAUTLA AMILPAS. 257
mering light pointed out the way to us on our return. The Indians
begged they might be left there " on account of the blessed souls in
purgatory," which was done. As we returned, we saw one figure
we had not observed before, which looks something hke a woman
mounted on an enormous goat. To one hall, on account of its
beauty, some travellers have given the name of the " Hah of
Angels." It is said, that by observation, the height of the stalag
mites might determine the age of their formation, but where is the
enterprising geologist who would shut himself up in these crystal
sohtudes sufficiently long for correct observation?
I never saw or could have imagined so beautiful an effect as that
of the daylight in the distance, entering by the mouth of the cave ;
such a faint misty blue, contrasted with the fierce red hght "of
the torches, and broken by the pillars through which its pale rays
struggled. It looked so pure and holy, that it seemed hke the hght
from an angel's wings at the portals of the " cittd dolente." What
would that poor traveher have given to have seen its friendly rays !
After chmbing out and leaving the damp, cool subterraneous air,
the atmosphere felt dry and warm, as we sat down to rest at the
mouth of the cavern, surrounded by our Indian torch-bearers.
Truly, nature is no coquette. She adorns herseh with greater
riches in the darkest mountain caAre, than on the highest mountain
top. We were sitting in thoughtful silence, ourselves, Indians and ah,
in a circle, when we saw, stumping down the hih, in great haste,
and apparently in great wrath, an Indian alcalde, with a thick staff
in his hand, at whose approach the Indians looked awe-struck. He
carried in his brown hand a large letter, on which was written in
great type; " Al Senor dominante de esta caravana de gente."
" To the Commander of this caravan of people !" This missive set
forth that the justice of peace of the city of Cuautla Amilpas,
•begged to know by what right, by whose authority, and with
what intentions we had entered this cave, without permission from
government; and desired the " Sefior dominante" to appear forth
with before the said justice, for contempt of his authority. The
spelling of the letter was too amusing. The Indians looked very
much alarmed, and when they saw us laugh, stih more astonished.
C-  n wrote with a pencil in ansAver to the summons, that he was
the Spanish Minister, and wished good day to the alcalde, who
plodded up the hih again, very ih pleased.
We now took leave of this prodigious subterranean palace, and again
put ourselves en route. Once more we wound our way round the brink
of the precipice, and this time it was more dangerous for us than
before, for we rode on the side next it, our gowns overhanging the
brink, and if caught by a branch there, might have been dragged
over. Our two guides afterwards said that if alone, they would
have dismounted ; but that as the ladies said nothing, they did not
like to propose it.

258 MUSICAL BELLS.
Some day, no doubt, this cave will become a show-place, and
measures will be taken to render the approach to it less dan
gerous ; but as yet, one of its charms consists in its being unhack
neyed. For, long after, its recollection rests upon the mind, hke a
marble dream. But, like Niagara, it cannot be described; perhaps
even it is more difficult to give an idea of this underground creation,
than of the emperor of cataracts; for there is nothing with which
the cave can be compared.
Meanwhile, we had rather a disagreeable ride, in all the force of
the sun's last rays, back to the rancho. No one spoke — ah our
thoughts were wandering amongst marble palaces, and uncouth,
gigantic, half-human forms.
But our attention was again attracted by the sudden reappear
ance of our friend, the alcalde, on the brow of the hih, looking
considerably indignant. He came with a fresh summons from the
judge of Cuautla Amilpas, which lay white and glittering in the
vahey below. C  n endeavoured gravely to explain to him that
the persons of ambassadors were not subject to such laws, which was
Greek and Hebrew to him of the bronze countenance. " If it were
a Consul indeed, there might be] something in that." At last our
guide, the ranchero, promised to cah upon the judge in the evening,
and explain the matter to his satisfaction ; and again our alcalde
departed upon his bootless errand — bootless in every sense, as he
stalked down the hih with his bare^bronze supporters. As we passed
along, a parcel of soldiers in the vihage were assembled in haste,
who struck up an imposing military air, to give us some idea of
their importance.
Politically speaking, Cuautla Amilpas has been the theatre of
important events. It was there that the curate Morelos shut him
self up with a troop of insurgents, until the place being besieged by
the Spaniards under Calleja, and the party of Morelos driven to ex
tremity for want of food, he secretly abandoned his position, draw
ing off his forces in the night.
When we arrived at the rancho, we found that a message had
come from the judge, prohibiting Don Benito from accompanying
strangers to the cave in future, which would be hard upon the old
man, who makes a httle money by occasionally guiding strangers
there. C  n has therefore written on the subject to the prefect
of the department.
In the cool of the evening, we had a dehghtful ride to Cocoyotla.
The air was soft and fragrant — the bells of the villages were ringing
amongst the trees, for every vihage, however poor, has at least one
fine church, and ah the bells in Mexico, whether in the city or
in the villages, have a mellow and musical sound, owing, it is said,
to the quantity of silver that enters into their composition.
It was late when we arrived at Cocoyotla, but we did not go to
rest without visiting the beautiful chapel, which we had omitted to
do on our last visit; it is very rich in gilding and ornaments, very

BENIGHTED TRAVELLERS. 259
large and in good taste. We supped, and threAv ourselves down to
rest for a few hours, and set off again at three o'clock, by the light
of a full moon. Our greatest difficulty in these hurried marches is
to getour things in and out of our portmanteaus, and to dress in
time in the^ dark. No looking-glasses of course— wc arrange our
hair by our imagination. Every thing gets broken, as you may
suppose ; the mules that carry our trunks cantering up and down
the hills to keep up with us, in most unequal measure.
The moon was still high, though pale, when the sun rose, hke a
youthful monarch impatient to take the reins from the hands of a
mild and dying queen. We had a delightful gallop, and soon left
the fires of Cocoyotla far behind us. After riding six leagues, we
arrived at six in the morning at the house of the Perez Palacios.
We should have gone further while it was cool; but their hospita
lity, added to a severe fit of toothach which had attacked C  n,
induced us to remain till four o'clock, during which time we im
proved our acquaintance with the family. How strange and even
melancholy are those ghmpses which travellers have of persons
whom they will probably neA'er meet again ; with whom they form
an intimacy, which owing to pecuhar circumstances seems very hke
friendship — much nearer it certainly, than many a long acquaintance
ship which we form in great cities, and where the parties go on
knowing each oilier from year to year, and never exchanging more
than a mere occasional and external civility.
It was four o'clock when we left Meacatlan, and we rode hard
and fast till it grew nearly dark, for our intention was to return to
our head-quarters at Atlacamulco that night, and Ave had a long
journey before us, especially as it was decided that we should by no
means attempt to recross the barrancas by night, which would have
been too dangerous. . Besides an echpse of the moon Avas predicted,
and in fact, as we were riding across the fields, she appeared above
the horizon, half in shadoAV, a curious and beautiful spectacle.
But we should have been thankful for her entire beams, for after
riding for hours we discovered that we had lost our way, and worse
still, that there were no hopes of our finding it. Not a hut was in sight
-—darkness coming on — nothing but great plains and mountains to be
distinguished, and nothing to be heard but bulls roaring round us.
We went on, trusting to chance, and where chance would have led us
it is hard to say; but by good fortune our advanced guard stumbled
over two Indians, a man. and a boy, who agreed to guide us to theh
own village, but nowhere else.
After following, them a long and weary way, all going at a pretty
brisk trot, the barking of hundreds of dogs announced an Indian vil
lage, and by the faint hght we could just distinguish the cane huts
snugly seated amongst bananas and with httle enclosed gardens be
fore each. Our cavalcade drew up before a hut, a sort of tavern or
spirit-shop, where an old half-naked hag, the beau ideal of a witch,
was distributing fire-water to the Indians, most of whom were
T

260 PLAN.
aheady drunk. We got off our horses and threw ourselves down
on the ground too tired to care what they were doing, and by
some means a cup of bad chocolate was procured for us. We
found that we had entirely lost our way, and it was therefore
agreed, that instead of attempting to reach Atlacamulco that night,
we should ride to the vihage of el Puente, where our conductors
knew a Spanish family of bachelor brothers, who would be glad
to harbour us for the remainder of the night. We then remounted
and set off somewhat refreshed by our rest and by the bad cho
colate. It was late at night when we entered el Puente, after having
crossed in pitch darkness a river so deep that the horses were
nearly carried off their feet; yet they were dancing in one place,
playing cards on the ground in another, dogs were barking as
usual, and candles hghted in the Indian huts. We were very well
received by the Spaniards, who gave us supper and made us take
theh room, ah the rest of the party sleeping upon mattresses placed
on the floor of a large empty apartment. We slept a few hours
very soundly, rose beforedayhght, wakened the others, who lying
on the ground, rolled up in their sarapes, seemed to be sleeping for
a wager, and remounted our horses not sorry at the prospect of a
day's restat Atlacamulco. It was dark when we set off; but the
sun had risen and had hghted up the bright green fields 'of sugar
cane, and the beautiful coffee plantations that look like flowering
myrtles,' by the time we reached the hacienda of Sefior Neri del Barrio,
whose family is amongst the most distinguished of the old Spanish
Mexican stock. We stopped to take a tumbler of milk fresh from
the cow; declined an invitation to go in, as we were anxious to
finish our journey while it was cool; and after a hard ride galloped
into the courtyard of Atlacamulco, which seemed like returning
home. We spent a pleasant, idle day, lying down and reading
while the sun was high, and in the evening sauntering about under
the orange-trees. We concluded with a hot bath.
7th.— Before continuing our journey, we determined to spend
one more day here, which was fortunate, as we received a large
packet of letters from home, forwarded to this place, and we have
been reading them, stretched under the shade of a natural bower
formed by orange-boughs, near a clear, cold tank of water in the
garden. To-morrow we shall set off betimes for the hacienda of
Cocoyoe, the property of Don Juan Goriva, with whom C  n
was acquainted m Mexico. After visiting that and some other of
the principal estates we shall continue our ride to Puebla, and as
we shah pass a few days there, hope to have leisure to write again
irom that city. °

261

LETTER THE THIRTY-FOURTH.
Ride by Starlight— Fear of Robbers— Tropical Wild Flowers — Stout Escort —
Hautepec — Hacienda of Cocoyoc — A Fire — Three Thousand Orange-trees —
Coffee Mills, &c. — Variety of Tropical Fruits — Prodigality of Nature— Casa-
sano — Celebrated Reservoir— Ride to Santa Clara— A Philosopher — A Scor
pion — Leave Santa Clara — Dangerous Barranca — Colon — Agreeable House
— Civil Administrador — San Nicolas — Solitude — Franciscan Friar — Rainy
Morning — Pink Turban — Arrival at Atlisco — Cypress — Department of
Puebla — Volcanoes — Dona Marina — Verses — Popocatepetl — Cholula — Great
Pyramid — Arrival at Puebla.
On the 9th of February we took leave of Atlacamulco and the
hospitable administrador, and our party being diminished by the
absence of Don Pedro who was obhged to go to Mexico, we set
off as usual by starlight, being warned of various bad bits on the
road, where the ladies at least were advised to dismount. The
country was wild and pretty, mountainous and stony. When the
light came in we separated and galloped about in all directions.
The air was cool and laden with sweetness. We came, however,
to a pretty lane, where those of our escort who were in front
stopped, and those who were behind rode up and begged us to
keep close together, as for many leagues the country was haunted
by robbers. Guns and pistols being looked to, we rode on in ser
ried ranks, expecting every moment to hear a buhet whiz over our
heads. Here were the most beautiful vrild flowers we have yet seen;
some purple, white, and rose-colour in one blossom; probably the
flower cahed ocelojo-chitl, or viper's head, others bright scarlet,
others red, with white and yehow stripes, and with an Indian
name, signifying the tiger's flower; some had rose-coloured blossoms
others were of the purest white.
We came at last to a road over a mountain, about as bad as any
thing we had yet seen. Our train of horses' and mules, and men
in their Mexican dresses, looked very picturesque winding up and
down these steep crags; and here again, forgetful of robbers, each
one wandered according to his own fancy, some riding forward,
and others hngering behind to puh branches of these beautiful wild
blossoms. The horses' heads were covered with flowers of every
colour, so that they looked hke victims adorned for sacrifice.
C  n indulged his botanical and geological propensities, occa
sionahy to the great detriment of his companions, as we were
anxious to arrive at some resting-place before the sun became in
supportable. As for the robbers, these gentlemen, who always
X 2

262 COCOYCC.
keep a sharp look out, and rarely endanger their precious persons
without some sufficient motive, and who, moreover, seem to have some
magical power of seeing through stone walls and into portman
teaus, were no doubt aAvare that our luggage would neither have
replenished their OAvn nor their ladies' wardrobes, and calculated
that people who travel for pleasure are not hkely to carry any
great quantity of superfluous coin. Besides this, they are much
more afraid of these honest, stout, well-armed farm servants, who
are a fine race of men, than even soldiers.
We arrived about six o'clock at the vihage of Hautepec, remark
able for its fine old church and lofty trees, especially for one magnifi
cent wide-spreading ash-tree in the churchyard. There were also many
of those pretty trees with the silvery bark, which always look as if
the moon were shining on them. The road began to improve, but
the sun became very oppressive about nine o'clock, Avhen we arrived
at a pretty village, which had a large church and a venta (tavern),
Avhere Ave stopped to refresh ourselves with water and some very
well-baked small cakes. The village was so pretty that we had some
thoughts of remaining there till the evening, but as Don Juan
assured us that one hour's good gahop would carry us to Cocoyoc,
the hacienda of Don Juan Gorivar, we determined to continue.
We had a dreadful ride in the hot sun, tih Ave arrived at a pretty
Indian village on the estate, arid shortly after entered the court
yard of the great hacienda of Cocoyoc, where we were most hospi
tably welcomed by the proprietor and his family.
We were very tired owing to the extreme heat, and white with
dust. A fresh toilet, cold water, an hour's rest, and an excel
lent breakfast, did wonders for us. Soon after our arrival, the
sugar-house, or rather the cane rubbish, took fire, and the great
bell swung heavily to and fro, summoning the workmen to assist in
getting it under. It was not extinguished for some time, and the
building is so near the house, that the family were a httle alarmed.
We stood on the balcony, which commands a beautiful view of
Popocatepetl, watching the blaze. After a hard battle between
fire and water, water carried the day.
In the evening we drove to the orange grove, where three thou
sand lofty trees are ranged in avenues, literally bending under the
weight of their golden fruit and snowy blossom. ' 1 never saw
a more beautiful sight. Each tree is perfect, and lofty as a forest
tree. The ground under their broad shadoAvs is strewed with thou
sands of oranges, dropping in their ripeness, and covered Avith the
white, fragrant blossoms. The place is lovely, and everywhere
traversed by streams of the purest water. We ate a disgraceful
number of oranges, limes, guayavas, and all manner of fruits, and
even tasted the sweet beans of the coffee plants.
We spent the next morning in visiting the coffee mills, the great
brandy works, sugar-houses, &c, all which are in the highest order;
and in strolling through the orange groves, and admiring the

CASASANO. 263
curious and • beautiful flowers, and walking among orchards of
loaded fruit trees — the calabash, papaw, mango, tamarind, citron 
' also mameys, chirimoyas, custard apples, and all the family of the
zapotes, white, black, yellow and chico; cayotes, cocoas, cacahuates,
aguacates, &c. &c. &c, a list without an end.
Besides these are an infinity of trees covered with the brightest
blossoms ; one, with large scarlet floAvers, most gorgeous in their
colouring, and one whose blossoms are so hke large*"pink silk tassels,
that if hung to the cushions of a sofa, you could not discover them to
be flowers. What prodigahty of nature in these regions ! With
what a lavish hand she flings beauty and luxury to her tropical
children !
In the evening we drove to Casasano, an hacienda about three
leagues from Cocoyoc, and passed by several other fine estates,
amongst others, the hacienda of Calderon. Casasano is an im
mense old house, very dull looking, the road to which hes through
a fine park for cattle, dotted with great old trees, but of Avhich the
grass is very much burnt up. Each hacienda has a large chapel
attached to it, at which all the workmen and villagers in the envi
rons attend mass; a padre coming from a distance on Sundays and
fete days. Frequently there is one attached to the establishment.
We went to see the celebrated water tank of Casasano, the largest
and most beautiful reservoir in this part of the country ; the water so
pure, that though upwards of thirty feet deep, every blade of grass at
the bottom is visible. Even a pin, dropped upon the stones below,
is seen shining quite distinctly. A stone wall, level with the water,
thirty feet high, encloses it, on which I ventured to walk all round
the tank, which is of an oval form, with the assistance of our host,
going one by one. A fall would be sufficiently awkward, involv
ing drowning on one side and breaking your neck on the other.
The water is beautiful — a perfect mirror, with long green feathery
plants at the bottom.
The next morning we took leave of our friends at three
o'clock, and set off for Santa Clara, the hacienda of Don Eusebio
Garcia. Sefior Goriva made me a present of a very good horse,
and our ride that day was delightful, though the roads led over the
most terrible barrancas. For nine long leagues, we did nothing
but ford rivers and climb steep hills, those Avho were pretty well
mounted beating up the tired cavalry. But during the first hours
of our ride, the air was so fresh among the hills, that even when
the sun was high, we suffered little from the heat; and the beau
tiful and varied views we met at every turn were full of interest.
Santa Clara is a striking, imposing mass of building, beautifully
situated at the foot of three bold, high rocks, with a remarkably
handsome church attached to it. The family were from home,
and the agent was a philosopher, hving upon herb-tea, quite above
-the common affairs of hfe. It is a fine hacienda, and very produc
tive, but sad and sohtary in the extreme, and as K  and I

264 AN ALACRAN.
walked about in the court-yard after supper, where we had lis
tened to frightful stories of robbers and robberies, we felt rather
uncomfortably dreary, and anxious to change our quarters. We
visited the sugar-works, wlfich are hke ah others, the chapel, which
is very fine, and the shop where they sell spirituous hquors and
calicoes. The hills looked gray and solemn. The sun sunk gloomy behind
them, his colour a turbid red. So much had been said about robbers,
that we were not sure how our next day's journey might terminate.
The administrador's own servant had turned out to be the captain
of a band ! whom the robbers, from some mysterious motive, had
murdered a feAv days before.
As we intended to rise before dawn, we went to bed early, about
nine o'clock, and were just in the act of extinguishing a melancholy-
looking candle, when we were startled by the sight of an alacran on
the wall. A man six feet high came at our cah. He looked at the
scorpion, shook his head, and ran out. He came back in a little
while with another large man, he with a great shoe in his hand, and
his friend with a long pole. While they were both hesitating how
to kill it, Don Juan came in, and did the deed. We had a melan
choly night after this, afraid of every thing, with a long unsnuffed
candle filuminating the darkness of our large and lonely chamber.
The next morning, the 11th of February, before sunrise, we took
our leave, in the darkness, of Santa Clara and the philosopher. The
morning, wonderful to relate, was windy, and almost cold. The
roads were frightful, and we hailed the first gray streak that appeared
in the eastern sky, announcing the daAvn, which might enable us at
least to see our perils. Fortunately it was bright daylight when we
found ourselves crossing a barranca, so dangerous, that after fohowing
for some time the precipitous course of the mountain path, we thought
it advisable to get off our horses, who were pawing the shppery rock,
without being able to find any rest for the soles of their feet. We
had a good deal of difficulty in getting along ourselves on foot among
the loose, sharp stones, and the horses, between sliding and stumbling,
were a long while in accomphshing the descent. After chmbing up
the barranca, one of them ran off along the edge of the cliff, as if he
were determined to cut the whole concern, and. we wasted some time
in catching him.
It was the afternoon Avhen we rode through the lanes of a large
Indian village, and shortly after arrived at Colon, an hacienda be
longing to Don Antonio Orria. He was from home, but the good
reception of the honest administrador, the nice, clean, cheerful house,
with its pretty painted chairs, good beds, the excehent breakfasts
and dinners, and the good will visible in the whole estabhshment,
dehghted us very much, and decided us to pitch our tent here for a
day or two. Some Spaniards, hearing of C  's arrival, rode over
from adistancetoseehim,anddinedwithus. There was a capital house
keeper, famous for her excehent cakes and preserves. We had also

SAN NICOLAS. 265
the refreshment of a warm bath, and felt ourselves as much at home
as if we had been in our own house.
The next morning we rode through the great sugar-cane fields to
the hacienda of San Nicolas, one of the finest estates in the Republic,
eighteen leagues long and five wide, belonging to Sefior Zamora, in
right of his wife. It is a productive place, but a singularly dreary
residence. We walked out to see all the works, which are on a
great scale, and breakfasted with the proprietor, who was there alone.
We amused ourselves by seeing the workmen receive their weekly
pay (this being Saturday), and at the mountains of copper piled up
on tables in front of the house. There is a feehng of vastness, of so
litude and of dreariness in some of these great haciendas, which is
oppressive. Especiahy about noon, when every thing is still, and there
is no sound except the incessant buzz of myriads of insects, I can
imagine it like what the world must have been before man was
created. Colon, which is not so large as San Nicolas, has a greater air of hfe
about it ; and in fact we hked it so well, that as  observed, we
seemed inchned to consider it, not as a colon, but a full stop. You
must not expect more vivacious puns in tierra caliente. We rode
back from San Nicolas in the afternoon, accompanied by the pro
prietor, and had some thoughts of going to Matamoras in the even
ing to see the Barber of Seville performed by a strolhng company in
the open air, under a tree ! admittance twenty-five cents. However,
we ended by remaining where we were, and spent the evening in
walking about through the vihage, surrounded by barking dogs, the
greatest nuisance in these places, and pulling wild flowers, and ga
thering castor oil nuts from the trees. A begging Franciscan friar,
from the convent of San Fernando, arrived for his yearly supply of
sugar which he begs from the different haciendas, for his convent, a
tribute which is never refused.
We left our hospitable entertainer the next morning, with the
addition of sundry baskets of cake and fruit from the housekeeper.
As we were setting off, I asked the administrador if there were any
barrancas on this road. " No," said he, " but I have sent a basket
fuh with one of the boys, as they are very refreshing." I made no
remark, concluding I should find out his meaning in the course of
the journey, but keeping a sharp look-out on the mysterious mozo,
who was added to our train. When the hght became stronger, I
perceived thathecarried under hissarape, alarge basket of fine naranjas
(oranges), which no doubt the honest administrador thought I was
inquiring after. It rained, when we left Colon, a thick misty drizzle.
and the difference of the temperature gave us notice that we were
passing out of tierra caliente. The road was so straight and unin
teresting, though the surrounding country was fertile, that a lew
barrancas would really have been enlivening.
At Colon we took leave of our conductor, Don Juan, who returned
to Atlacamulco, and got a new director of our forces, a handsome

266 ATLISCO.
man, yclept Don Francisco, who had been a Spanish soldier. We
had an uncomfortable ride in a high Avind and hard rain, the roads
good but devoid of interest, so that we were glad when we learnt
that Atlisco, a town where we were to pass the night, was not far off.
Within a mile or two of the city, Ave were met by a tah man on
horseback, with a pink turban, and a wild, swarthy, face, ayIio looked
like an Abencerrage, and who came with the comphments of his
master, a Spanish gentleman, to say, that a house had been prepared
for us in the town.
Athsco is a large toAvn, with a high mountain behind it crowned
• 1 Til*
by a Avhite chapel, a magnificent church at the base ; the whole city
fuh of fine churches and convents, with a plaza and many good houses.
The numerous pipes, pointed all along from the roofs, have a Arery
threatening and warlike effect ; one seems to ride up the principal
street under a strong fire. We found that Don Fernando  ,
pink turban's master, not considering his own house good enough,
fiad, on hearing of our expected arrival, hired another, and furnished
part of it for us ! This is the sort of wholesale hospitality one meets
with in this country. Our room looked out upon an old Carmelite
monastery, where C  n, having a recommendation to the prior,
paid a visit, and found one or two good paintings. Here also we
saw the famous cypress mentioned by Humboldt, which is seventy-
three feet in circumference. The next morning, we set out with an
escort of seven mozos, headed by Don Francisco, and all well armed,
for the road from Athsco to Puebla is the robbers' highway, par
excellence. This vahey of Atlisco, as indeed the Avhole department of Pue
bla, is noted for its fertility, and its abundant crops of maguey,
wheat, maize, frijoles, garbanzos, barley, and other vegetables, as
well as for the fineness of its fruits, its chirimoyas, &c. There is a
Spanish proverb, which says,
" Si a morar en Indias feures,
Que sea doude los volcanes vieres."
" If you go to hve in the Indias, let it be within sight of the vol
canoes;" for it appears that all the lands surrounding the different
volcanoes are fertile, and enjoy a pleasant climate. The great Cor
dilleras of Anahuac cross this territory, and amongst these are the
Mountain of the Malinchi, Ixtaccihuatl, Popocatepetl, and the Peak
of Orizava. The Mahnchi, a corruption by the Spaniards of the
Indian name Malintzin, signifying Dofia Maria or Marina, is sup
posed to be called after Cortes's Indian Egeria, the first Christian
woman of the Mexican empire.
Though given to Cortes by the Tabascan Indians, it seems clear
that she was of noble birth, and that her father Avas the lord of
many cities. It is pretended that she fell into a tributary situation,
through the treachery of her mother, who remarried after the death
of her first husband, and who, bestowing all her affection on the son

VOLCANOES. 267
born of this second marriage, determined, in concert with her hus
band, that all their Avealth should pass to him. It happened, in fur
therance of their views, that the daughter of one of their slaves
died, upon which they gave out that they had lost their own
daughter, affected to mourn for her, and, at the same time, privately
sold her, after the fashion of Joseph's brethren, to some merchants
of Gicalanco, who in their turn disposed of her to their neighbours,
the Tabascans, who presented her to Cortes. That she was beautiful
and of great, talent, Arersed in different dialects, the devoted friend
of the Spaniards, and serving as their interpreter in their negotia
tions with the various Indian tribes, there seems no doubt. She
accompanied Cortes in all his expeditions— he followed her advice ;
and in the whole history of the conquest, Dona Marina (the name
given to the beautiful slave at her Christian baptism), played an im
portant part. Her son, Martin Cortes, a knight of the order of
Santiago, was put to the torture in the time of Phihp II., on
some unfounded suspicion of rebellion. It is said that when Cortes,
accompanied by Dofia Marina, went to Honduras, she met her guilty
relatives, Avho, bathed in tears, threw themselves at her feet, fearful
lest she might avenge herself of their cruel treatment ; but that she
calmed' their fears, and received them with much kindness. The
name of her birthplace Avas Painala, a village in the proAance of
Cuatzacualco. After the conquest, she was married to a Spaniard,
named Juan de Jaramiho.
But I haA-e wandered a long Avay from the Sierra Malinchi. The
two great volcanoes, but especially Popocatepetl, the highest moun
tain in New Spain, seem to follow the traveller hke his guardian
spirit, wherever he goes. Orizava, which forms a boundary between
the departments of Puebla and Vera Cruz, is said to be the most
beautiful of mountains on a near approach, as it is the most magni
ficent at a distance ; for while its summit is crowned with snow, its
central part is girded by thick forests of cedar and pine, and its base
is adorned with woods and sloping fields covered with flocks, and
dotted with white ranchos and small scattered villages ; forming the
most agreeable and varied landscape imaginable. Ixtaccihuatl means
white woman ; Popocatepetl the mountain that throws out smoke.
They are thus celebrated by the poet Heredia: —
Nieve eternal corona las cabezas
De Ixtaccihuatl purissimo, Orizava
Y Popocatepec ; sin que el invierno
Toque jamas con destructora mano
Los campos fertillisimos do ledo
Los mira el indio en purpura ligera
Yoro tenirse, reflejando el brillo
Del sol en Occidente, que sereno
En yelo eterno y perennal verdura
A torrentes versio su luz dorada,
Y vio a naturaleza conmovida
Con su dulce calor, hervir en vida.

268 CHOLULA.

TRANSLATION.

Eternal snow crowns the majestic heads
Of Orizava, Popocatepetl,
And of Ixtaccihuatl the most pure.
Never does winter with destructive hand
Lay waste the fertile fields where from afar
The Indian views them bathed in purple light
And died in gold, reflecting the last rays
Of the bright sun, which, sinking in the west,
Poured forth his flood of golden light, serene
Midst ice eternal, and perennial green ;
And saw all nature warming into life,
Moved by the gentle radiance of his fires.
The morning was reahy cold, and when we first set out, Poco-
catepetl was rohed up in a mantle of clouds. The road led us very
near him. The wind was very piercing, and K  was mounted
on a curate's pony, evidently accustomed to short distances and easy
travelling. We had been told that it was "muy proprio para
Sefiora," very much suited to a lady, an encomium always passed
upon the oldest, most stupid and most obstinate quadruped that the
haciendas can boast. We overtook and passed a party of cavalry,
guarding some prisoners, whom they were conducting to Puebla.
As the sun rose, ah eyes were turned with amazement and ad
miration, to the great volcano. The clouds parted in the middle,
and rohed off in great volumes, hke a curtain withdrawn from a high
altar. The snowy top and sides of the mountain appeared, shining
in the bright sun, hke a grand dome of the purest white marble.
But it cannot be described. I thought of Sinai, of Moses on the
Mount, when the glory of the Lord was passing by; of the moun
tain of the Transfiguration, something too intolerably bright and
magnificent for mortal eye to look upon and live. We rode slowly,
and in speechless wonder, tih the sun, which had crowned the moun
tain hke a glory, rose slowly from its radiant brow, and we were re
minded that it was time to ride forwards.
We Avere not far from the ancient city of Cholula, lying on a
great plain at a short distance from the mountains, and glittering in
the sunbeams, as if it stih were the city of predilection as in former
days, when it was the sacred city, " the Rome of Anahuac." It is
stih a large town, with a spacious square and many churches, and
the ruins of its great pyramid stih attest its former grandeur ; but of
the forty thousand houses and four hundred churches mentioned by
Cortes, there are no traces. The base of this pyramid, which at a
distance looks hke a conical mountain, is said by Humboldt to be
larger than that of any discovered in the old continent, being double
that of Cheops. It is made of layers of bricks mixed with coats of
clay and contains four stories. In the midst of the principal plat
form, where the Indians worshipped Quetzalcoatl, the god of the air,
(according to some the patriarch Noah, and according to others the

THE THEATRE. 269
apostle Saint Thomas ! for doctors differ,) rises a church dedicated
to the Virgin de los Remedios, surrounded by cypresses, from which
there is one of the most beautiful views in the world. From this
pyramid, and it is not the least interesting circumstance connected
with it, Humboldt made many of his valuable astronomical obser
vations. The treachery of the people and priests of Cholula, who after
welcoming Cortes and the Spaniards, formed a plan for exterminat
ing them all, which was discovered by Dona Marina, through the
medium of a lady of the city, was visited by him with the most
signal vengeance. The slaughter was dreadful; the streets were
covered with dead bodies, and houses and temples were burnt to the
ground. This great temple was afterwards purified by his orders,
and the standard of the cross solemnly planted in the midst. Cho
lula, not being on the direct road to Puebla, is httle visited, and as
for us our time was now so hmited, that we were obhged to content
ourselves with a mere passing observation of the pyramid, and then
to hurry forward to Puebla.
We entered that city to the number of eighteen persons, eighteen
horses, and several mules, and passed some people near the gates
who were carrying blue-eyed angels to the chosen city, and who
nearly let them drop, in astonishment, on seeing such a cavalcade.
We were very cold, and felt very tired as we rode into the court
yard of the hotel, yet rather chagrined to think that the remainder
of our journey was now to be performed in a diligence. Having
brought my story up to civihzed hfe, and it being late, I conclude.

LETTER THE THIRTY-FIFTH.
Theatre — Portmanteaus — Visiters— Houses of Puebla — Fine Arts — Paseo —
Don N. Ramos Arispe— Bishop— Cotton Factories — Don Esteban Antunano
 Bank of Avio — United States Machinery — Accidents — Difficulties—Ship
wrecks — Detentions— Wonderful Perseverance — "La Constancia Mejicana"
Hospital— Prison— El Carmen— Paintings— Painted Floors— Angels— Cathe
dral— Gold and Jewels— A Comedy— Bishop's Palace— Want of Masters. Puebla.
You wih be surprised when I teh you that, notwithstanding our
fatigue, we went to the theatre the evening we arrived, and sat
through a long and tragical performance, in the box of Don A  o

270 THE HOUSES.
H  o, one of the richest citizens of Puebla, who, hearing of our
arrival, instantly came to invite us to his house, where he assured us
rooms were prepared for our reception. But being no longer in
savage parts, where it is necessary to throAv yourself on the hospitality
of strangers or to sleep in the open air, we dechned Iris kind
offer, and remained in the inn, which is very tolerable, though we
do not see it now en beau as we did last year, when we were ex
pected there. The theatre is clean and neat, but dull, and we were
much more looked at than the actors, for few foreigners (ladies espe
ciahy) remain here for any length of time, and theh appearance is
somewhat of a novelty. Our toilet occasioned us no smah diffi
culty, now that we were again in polished cities, for you may ima
gine the condition of our trunks, which two mules had galloped
with OArer ninety leagues of plain and mountain, and Avhich had been
opened every night. Such torn gowns, crushed collars, ruined
pelerines ! One carpet bag had burst and discharged its contents of
combs, brushes, &c, over a barranca, where some day they may be
picked up as Indian antiquities, and sent to the Museum, to be pre
served as a proof that Montezuma's Avivcs brushed their hair. How
ever by dint of a washerwoman and sundry messages to peluqueros,
(hair-dressers) we Avere enabled to turn out something like Christian
travellers. The first night we coidd not sleep on account of the in
numerable ants, attracted probably by a smah garden, with one or
two orange trees in it, into which our room opened.
The next morning we had a great many A-isiters, and though there
is here a good deal of that provincial pretension one always meets
with out of a capital, we found some pleasant people amongst them.
The Sefiora H  o came in a A-ery handsome carriage, with beau
tiful northern horses, and took us out to see something of the tOAvn.
Its extreme cleanness after Mexico is remarkable. In that respect
it is the Philadelphia of the Republic; with wide streets, wehpaA-ed;
large houses of two stories, very solid and well-built; magnificent
churches, plenty of water, and withal a dullness which makes one
feel as if the houses were rows of convents, and all the people,
except beggars and a few business men, shut up in performance of
a vow. The house of Don A  o H  o is, I think, more elegantly
furnished than any in Mexico. It is of immense size, and the floors
beautifully painted. One large room is furnished with pale blue
satin, another with crimson damask, and there are fine inlaid tables,
handsome mirrors, and every thing in very good taste. He and his
wife are both very young — she not more than nineteen, very delicate
and pretty, and very fair; and in her dress, neatness, and house,
she reminds me of a Philadelphian, always with the exception of
her diamonds and pearls. The ladies smoke more, or at least more
openly, than in Mexico ; but they have so few amusements, they
deserve more indulgence. There are eleven convents of nuns in the
city, and taking the veil is as common as being married. We dined at

ANTUNANO. 271
the Sefiora H  o's; found her very amiable, and heard a young
ladysing, who has a good voice, but complains that there are no
music-masters in Puebla.
The fine arts, however, are not entirely at a stand-still here ; and
in architecture, sculpture, and painting, there is a good deal, com
paratively speaking, worthy of notice. There used to be a proverb
amongst the Mexicans, that " if all men had five senses, the Poblanos
had seven." They are considered very reserved in their manners —
a natural consequence of their having actually no society. Formerly,
Puebla rivalled Mexico in population and in industry. The plague,
which carried off fifty thousand persons, Was followed by the pesti
lence of civil war, and Puebla dwindled down to a very secondary
city. But we now hear a great deal of their cotton factories, and
of the machines, instruments, and workmen, brought from Europe
here, aheady giving employment to thirty thousand individuals.
In the evening we drove to the new paseo, a public promenade,
where none of the public were to be seen, and which will be pretty
when the young trees grow.
19th. — C  n went out early, and returned the visit of the
celebrated Don N. Ramos Arispe, now an old man, and canon ot
the cathedral, but formerly deputy in the Spanish Cortes, and the
most zealous supporter of the cause of independence. It is said that
he owed the great influence which he had. over men of a middling
character, rather to his energetic, some say his domineering dispo
sition, than to genius ; that he was clear-headed, active, dexterous,
remarkable for discovering hidden springs and secret motives, and
always keeping his subordinates zealously employed in his affairs.
C  n also visited the bishop, Sefior Vasques, Avho obtained from
Rome the acknowledgment of independence.
We set out after breakfast with several gentlemen, who came to
take us to the cotton factories, &c. We went first to visit the fac
tory estabhshed at the mill of Santo Domingo, a httle way out of
the city, and called " La Constancia Mejicana" (Mexican Constancy).
It was the first estabhshed in the republic, and deserves its name
from the great obstacles that were thrown in the way of its con
struction, and the numerous difficulties that had to be conquered
before it came into effect. _ .
In 1831, a junta for the encouragement of public industry was
formed, but the obstacles thrown in the way of every proposal were
so great, that the members all abandoned it in despair, excepting
only the Sefior Don Esteban Antunano, who was determined him
self to estabhsh a manufactory of cotton, to give up his commercial
relations, and to employ his whole fortune in attaining this object.
He bought the mill of Santo Domingo for one hundred and
seventy-eight thousand dohars, and began to build the edifice, em
ploying foreign workmen at exorbitant prices. In this he spent so
much of his capital, that he was obhged to have recourse to the .Bank
of Avio for assistance. This bank (avio meaning pecuniary assist-

272 THREE SHIPWRECKS.
ance, or advance of funds) was estabhshed by Don Lucas Alaman,
and intended as an encouragement to industry. But industry is not
of the nature of a hothouse plant, to be forced by artificial means;
and these grants of funds have but created monopohes, and conse
quently added to the general poverty. Machinery, to the amount
of three thousand eight hundred and forty spindles, was ordered for
Antunano from the United States, and a loan granted him of one
hundred and seventy-eight thousand dohars, but of which he never
received the whole. Mean whhe his project was sneered at as absurd,
impossible, ruinous; but, firmly resolved not to abandon his enter
prise, he contented himself with hving Avith the strictest economy,
himself and his numerous family almost suffering from want, and
frequently unable to obtain credit for the provisions necessary for
their daily use.
To hasten the arrival of the machinery, he sent an agent to the
north to superintend it, and to hire workmen ; but the commercial
house to which he was recommended, and which at first gave him;
the sums he required, lost theh confidence in the agent, and re-
demanded their money, so that he was forced to seh his clothes in
order to obtain food and lodging. In July, 1833, the machinery
was embarked at Philadelphia, and in August arrived at Vera Cruz,
to the care of Sefior Paso y Troncoso, who never abandoned Antu
nano in his adversity, and even lent him unlimited sums ; but much
delay ensued, and a year elapsed before it reached Puebla. There,
after it was ah set up, the ignorant foreign workmen declared that
no good results would ever be obtained ; that the machines were bad,
and the cotton worse. However, by the month of January, 1833,
they began to work in the factory, to which was giA'en the name of
" Mexican Constancy." A mechanist was then sent to the north,
to procure a cohection of new machinery ; and, after extraordinary
delays and difficulties, he embarked with it at New York in February,
1837. He was shipwrecked near Cayo-Hueso, and, with ah the machinery
he could save, returned to the north in the brig Argos; but on his
way there he Avas shipwrecked again, and ah the machinery lost !
He went to Philadelphia, to have new machines constructed, and
in August re-embarked in the Delaware. Incredible as it may seem,
the Delaware was wrecked off Cayo-Alcatraces, and for the third
time the machinery was lost, the mechanist saving himself with
great difficulty !
It seemed as if gods and men had conspired against the cotton
spindles; yet Antunano persevered. Fresh machinery was ordered;
and though by another fatality it was detained, owing to the
blockade of the ports by the French squadron, seven thousand
spindles were landed, and speedily put in operation. Others have
followed the example of Sefior Antunano, who has given a decided
impulse to industry in Puebla, besides a most extraordinary example
of perseverance, and a determined struggle against what men call

PAINTINGS. 273
bad luck, which persons of a feeble character sink under, while
stronger minds oppose till they conquer it.
It was in his carriage we went, and he accompanied us ah over
the building. It is beautifully situated, and at a distance has more
the air of a summer palace than of a cotton factory. Its order and
airiness are delightful, and in the middle of the court, in front of
the building, is a large fountain of the purest water. A Scotchman,
who has been there for some time, says he has never seen any thing
to compare with it, and he worked six years in the United States.
Antunano is unfortunately very deaf, and obhged to use an ear-
trumpet. He seems an excehent man, and I trust he may be
ultimately successful. We came out covered with cotton, as if we
had been just unpacked, and were next taken to visit a very hand
some new prison, which they are building in the city, but whether
it will ever_ be finished, or not, is more doubtful. We also visited
the Foundling Hospital, a large building, where there are more
children than funds. They were all clean and respectable-looking,
but very poor. Antunano presented them with two hundred
dollars, as a memorial, he said, of our visit.
C  n then went to the convent of El Carmen, to see the
paintings of the Life of the Virgin, supposed to be original works of
Muriho, particularly the Ascension and Circumcision, but wlfich are
ill-arranged, and have suffered greatly from neglect, many of them
being torn. Indeed, in some of them are large holes made by the
boys, who insisted that the Jewish priest was the devil. There is a
Descent from the Cross, which is reckoned a fine painting; and it is
a pity that these works should be shut up in this old convent, where
there are about half a dozen old monks, and where they serve no
purpose, useful or ornamental. Were they removed to the
Mexican Museum, and arranged with care, they would at least
serve as models for those young artists who have not the means of
forming their taste by European travel. Zendejas as a painter, and
Coro as a sculptor, both natives of Puebla, are celebrated in their
respective arts, but we have not yet seen any of theh- works.
C  n also visited the bishop, and saw his paintings and library,
which we hope to do to-morrow ; and from thence went to the col
lege, the rector of which was attache in Spain to the Minister Santa
Maria. We dined again in the house of Sefior H  o. The manner in
which his floors are painted is pretty and curious. It is in imitation
of carpets, and is very rich in appearance and very cool in reahty.
A great many of the floors here are painted in this way, either upon
canvass with oil colours, or upon a cement extended upon the bricks
of which the floor is made, and prepared with glue, lime, or clay,
and soap.
Sefior H  o has four young and pretty sisters, all nuns in
different convents. As there are no other schools but these con
vents, the young girls who are sent there -become attached to the
nuns, and prefer remaining with them for ever to returning home.

274 BISHOP'S PALACE.
After dinner, accompanied by Don X. Ramos Arispe, whom C  n
formerly knew intimately in Madrid, and by various other eccle
siastics, we visited the boast of Puebla, the cathedral, which we did
not do when we passed through the city on our arrival List year.
To my mind, I have never seen any thing more noble and magni
ficent. It is said that the rapid progress of the building was OAving
to the assistance of two angels, who nightly descended and added to
its heisht, so that each morning the astonished workmen found their
labour incredibly adA-anced. The name given to the city, '• Puebla
de los Angeles," is said to be ovring to this tradition.
It is not so large as the cathedral of Mexico, but it is more
elegant, simpler, and in better taste. Sixteen columns of exquisite
marble, adorned Avith silver and gold, form the tabernacle (in. Mexico
called el Cipres). This native marble, called Puebla marble, is
brought from the quarries of Totamehuacan and Teeali, at two and
seven leagues from the city. The floor of the cathedral is of
marble — the great screens and high-backed chairs of richly carved
cedar. Every thing was opened to show us; the tombs where the
bishops are buried; the vault where a martyr hes, supposed to have
been miraculously preserved for centuries, the gift of a pope to a
bishop of Puebla. The figure appears to be of wax, enclosing the
skeleton of the martyr, and has the most angelic countenance I ever
beheld. It is loaded Avith false emeralds and diamonds.
We were also shown the jewels, which they keep buried, in case of
a revolution. The Custodia, the gold stand in which they carry
the Host, is entirely encrusted with large diamonds, pearls, emeralds,
amethysts, topazes, and rubies. The chalices are equally rich.
There are four sets of jewels for the bishop. One of his crosses is of
emeralds and diamonds ; another of topazes and diamonds, Avith
great rings of the same, belonging to each.
In the evening we went Avith the M  family, who have been
very civil to us, to the theatre, where we saw a comedy better acted
and more amusing than the tragedy which they murdered two
nights before. We went early the next morning to the bishop's
palace, to see his fine library and cohection of paintings, where
there were a few modern originals and many fine copies of the
old masters. We then went with the Sefiora H  o, to return
the visits of the ladies who had cahed on us. The young ladies
invariably complain that they have neither music, nor drawing,
nor dancing-masters. There is evidently a great deal of musical
taste among them, and, as in every part of Mexico, town or
country, there is a piano (tal cual) in eAery house; but most of
those Avho play are self-taught, and naturally abandon it verv soon,
for want of instruction or encouragement. We are now going to
dine out, and in the evening we go to a concert in the theatre,
given by the Sefiora Cesari and Mr. Wallace. As we must rise
at three, to set off by the diligence, I shah write no more from
this place. Our next letters wih be from Mexico.

275

LETTER THE THIRTY-SIXTH.
Concert— Diligence— Leave Puebla— Escort— View from the Cathedral Towers
—Black Forest— History of the Crosses— Tales of Murder— An Alarm-
Report of a Skirmish — Rio Frio — Law concerning Robbers — Their Moderation
— Return to Mexico— Carnival Ball — Improvement in Dress. Mexico, 24th.
We Avent to the concert with our friends, the H  o's. The
music was better than the instruments, and the Sefiora Cesari
looked handsome,' as she always does, besides being beautifully
dressed in white, with Paris wreaths. We took leave of our
friends at the door of the hotel, at one in the morning, and lay
down for two hours, in the fuh expectation of being robbed the fol
lowing day, a circumstance which has now grown so common, that
when the diligence from Puebla arrives in safety, it excites rather
more sensation than when it has been stopped. The governor had
ordered us an escort to Mexico, to be stationed about every six
leagues, but last week the escort itself, and even the gallant officer
at its head, were suspected of being the plunderers. Our chief hope
lay in that well-known miraculous knowledge which they possess as
to the value of all travellers' luggage, which no doubt not only
makes them aware that we are mere pilgrims for pleasure, and not
fresh arrivals, laden with European commodities, but also renders
them perfectly familiar with the contents of our well-shaken port
manteaus; so that we trusted that a sarape or two, a few rings and
earrings, and one or two shawls, would not prove sufficient to tempt
them. We got into the diligence in the dark, hah asleep, having
taken ah the places but three, which were engaged before we came;
some sleepy soldiers on horseback, ready to accompany us, and a
loaded gun sticking out of each window. Various beggars, who are
here innumerable, aheady surrounded us; and it is, by_ the way, a
remarkable circumstance, that notwithstanding the amazing numbers
of the leperos in Puebla, the churches there are kept scrupulously
clean, from which Mexico might take a hint with advantage.
Puebla is one of the few cities founded by the Spanish colonists,
instead of being built upon the ruins of former greatness. It was
founded in the sixteenth century, on the plains of Acajete, in a site
occupied only by a few huts belonging to the Cholula Indians. It
is surrounded by productive corn estates, and the landscape, when
the hght visited our eyes, was ferthe though flat. The two finest
views of Puebla may be seen from the towers of the cathedral, and
V

276 TALES OF MURDER.
from an azotea in the street of San Agustin. The landscape is ex
tremely varied and very extensive.
To the north we see the mountain of Tlascala, the Mailalcueyetl,
better known as the Mahnchi ; next it the hih and temple of Gua
dalupe and the mountain of the Pinar, crowned by its white church.
Other churches and convents adorn the slopes of the mountains, the
Church of Loreto, the Temple of Calvary, &c. The Malinchi is
ferthe, but these inferior mountains are sterile and bare.
To the south he the great volcanoes, and between them we can
distinguish the difficult and steep road by which Cortes undertook
his first march to Mexico. We also see^ the city and pyramid of
Cholula, the hih of San Nicolas, and that of San Juan, where Gene
ral Bustamante encamped in 1832, when he went out against Santa
Anna ; near it the farm-houses of Posadas and Zavaleta, one cele
brated by a battle, the other by a treaty.
To the east, but at a greater distance than the other mountains,
rises the Peak of Orizava, the Star Mountain; the side now seen,
that which rises over the table land of Mexico ; its other side de
scends rapidly to the burning plains of Vera Cruz, and is the first
distinguishable land discerned by those who approach these coasts.
Even at this distance, its snowy summit is seen contrasting with its
fertile woods and pleasant Aahages. It has, what mortals rarely
possess united, a warm heart, with a clear, cold head.
We were awakened at a posada by theh bringing us some hot
coffee, and a man with a white nightcap on, having poked his head
in at the window, in defiance of a loaded musket, I concluded he
was a lepero, and sleepily told him I had nothing for him, in the
phrase of the country to importunate beggars ; " Perdone V. por
Dios!" "Excuse me, for God's sake!" — but he proved to be a
gentleman, who merely came to put himself and his property at our
disposal, at that early hour of the morning.
When we entered the black forest, and passed through the dark
pine woods, then the stories of robbers began, just as people at sea
seem to take a particular pleasure in talking of shipwrecks. Every
cross had its tale of murder, and by the way, it seems to me, that a
work written with connaissance de cause, and entitled " History of
the Crosses," though it might not equal the " History of the Cru
sades," wovdd be quite as interesting, and much more romantic, than
the Newgate Calendar. The difficulty would consist in procuring
authentic information concerning them. There were a lady and two
gentleman in the dilligence, and the lady seemed to be very much
au fait as to theh purport and history. Under one her own servant
was buried, and she gave rather a graphic account of his murder.
He was sitting outside, on the top of the diligence. The party
within were numerous but unarmed. Suddenly a number of rob
bers withmasks on, came shouting down upon them from amongst
the pmeraeesi^Tkey first took aim at the poor mozo, and shot him
thriough thejiealft. He feh, calling in piteous tones to a padre who.

ROBBERS. 277
was in the coach, entreating him to stop and confess, him, and
groaning out a fareweh to his friend the driver. Mortal fear pre
vailed over charity both in priest and layman, and the coachman,
whipping up his horses, passed at full gahop over the body of the mur
dered man, so that the robbers being on foot, the remainder of the
party escaped.
Whilst we were listening to tales of blood and murder, our es
cort took leave of us, supposing that we should meet another im
mediately, whereas we found that we had arrived at the most
dangerous part of the road, and that no soldiers were in sight. We
certainly made up our minds to an attack this time, and got ready
our rings and watches, not to hide, but to give, for we womenkind
were clearly of opinion, that in case of an attack, it was much
better to attempt no defence, our party having only two guns
amongst them.
There was a diligence some way behind us, full of people, and
belonging to another hne ; driven by a Yankee coachman, so drunk
that he kept his seat with difficulty, and in defiance of ah remon
strances, persisted in driving the coach at a gahop close by the
brink of the great precipice along which the road wound ; so that
the poor passengers were exposed to a double danger.
Suddenly our escort appeared at the top of the hih, and the offi
cer, riding up, excused himself to C  n for the delay, which had
arisen from their having been engaged in a skirmish with the rob
bers in that very place. Two he said were taken, and he had
marched them off to Puebla, where they will probably be let off in a
few days, after a form of trial. Four had escaped, and had hid
themselves amongst the trees and rocks, but could not, according to
his calculations, be very far off. However, we were quite reassured
by the arrival of the soldiers, and the sight of Rio Frio was very
reviving. We got a very tolerable dinner from the Bordelaise in
the forest-valley ; and although the next part of the road is
reckoned very insecure, we had no longer any apprehension, as,
besides having an escort, the fact that some of the robbers had been
taken a few hours before, made it very unlikely that they would
renew their attempts that day.
This pestilence of robbers, which infests the repubhc, has never
been eradicated. They are in fact the growth of civil war. Spme-
times in the guise of insurgents, taking an active part in the inde
pendence, they have independently laid waste the country, and
robbed ah whom they met. As expellers of the Spaniards, these
armed bands infested the roads between Vera Cruz and the capital,
ruined ah commerce, and without any particular inquiry into poh
tical opinions, robbed, and murdered in all directions. In 1824, a
law was proposed in congress, which should subject all armed
bands of robbers to mihtary judges, in order to shorten proceed
ings, for many of those who had been apprehended and thrown
into prison, found some opportunity to escape, while their trial was
u 2

278 MODERATION.
pending, and many had been imprisoned four or five times for the
same offence, yet never brought to justice. In tlfis law were in
cluded both robbers by profession and those bodies of insurgents
who were merely extempore amateurs.
But whatever measures have been taken at different times to
eradicate this evil, its causes remain, and the idle and unprincipled
wih always take advantage of the disorganized state of the country,
to obtain by force what they might gain by honest labour.
Count  says gravely, that he cannot imagine why we com
plain of Mexican robbers, when the city of London is fuh of
•organized gangs of ruffians, whom the laws cannot reach; and
when Enghsh highwaymen and housebreakers are the most cele
brated in the world. Moreover, that Mexican robbers are never
unnecessarily cruel, and in fact are very easily moved to compassion.
This last assertion may, occasionally, hold good, but theh cruelties
to travehers are too well known to bear him out in it as a general
remark. As a proof of theh occasional moderation, I may mention, that
the ladies of the F  a family, at the time of their emigration,
were travelling from Mexico with a padre, when they were met by
a party of robbers or insurgents, who stopped the coach, and com
menced pihaging. Amongst other articles of value, they seized a
number of silver dishes. The padre observed to them, that as
this plate did not belong to the ladies, but was lent them by a
friend, they would be obhged to replace it, and requested that one
might be left as a pattern. The reasonable creatures instantly re
turned a dish and a cover !
Another time, having completely stripped an Enghsh gentleman
and his servant, and tied them both to a tree, obserAdng that the
man appeared particularly distressed at the loss of his master's
spurs, they pohtely returned and laid the spurs beside the gentle
man. About four o'clock, though nearly blinded with dust, we once
more looked down upon the vahey of Mexico, and at five, during
our last change of horses, we were met by Don M  1 del C  o
and the Enghsh courier Beraza, who had rode out to meet us, and
accompanied us on their fine horses as far as the Garita. Here we
found our carriage waiting; got in and drove through Mexico,
dusty as we were, and warhke as we seemed, with guns at the win
dows. In the Cahe San Francisco, the carriage was stopped by
Mr.  , Secretary to the Enghsh Legation, who invited us to a
grand masked and fancy carnival ball to be given on Monday,
it being now Saturday. On our return home, we found every
thing in good order. Had some difficulty in procuring ball-dresses
in time.
On Sunday we had a number of people to dinner, by chance, it
being Spanish fashion to dine at a friend's house without invita
tion. This eArening we go to the bah.

CARNIVAL BALL. 279
26th. — The ball was in the theatre, and very brihiant, but too
many of the first people on these occasions keep their boxes, and
do not dance; yet it was wonderfully select for so large an
assembly. When we arrived, we were led up-stairs by some of the
commissioners, those who had charge of the ball, to the E  s'
box, whom we found, as usual, elegantly dressed — the married
ladies of the family with diamonds, the younger ones in white
crape and gold. I had a black silk mask, but finding myseh uni
versally recognised, saw no particular advantage in keeping it on,
and promptly discarded it. We took a few turns in the ball-room,
and afterwards returned to the box. There were some capital
figures in masks, and some beautiful ball-dresses, and though there
were a number of dominoes and odd figures, I could not help re
marking the great improvement in toilet which had taken place
since the fancy bah of last year. One or two girls, especiahy the
Senorita M  wore ball-dresses which could only have proceeded
from the fingers of a Parisian modiste. Madame de  , dressed
as a peasant, and with a mask, was known everywhere by her
small foot and pretty figure. But it is impossible to look on at a ball
very long, not mingling with it without growing tired; and not
even the numerous visiters to our box could prevent us from feel
ing much more .sleepy, than during many a moonhght ride through
the lovely lanes of tierra caliente.
Next night there was a pubhc masked bah, but we did not
attend it. We feel much the better for our journey, and only hope
that some day C  n may have leisure sufficient to enable us to
take another ride through some other part of the country. This being
near Lent, we shah have no soirees for six weeks, though balls are
occasionahy given during that time of fasting. The house has
become very comfortable in the way of servants; our housekeeper
a treasure, the coachman and footman excellent, the cook tolerable,
the soldiers rarely tipsy more than once a week, and generahy only
one at a time, the others decent — so that we have nothing to com
plain of.  has estabhshed a hen-house near the stable, and
any old Indian woman who brings her a manojo (several hens tied
together) is sure to be received with open arms.
One of our first visits on our return was to Tacubaya, where we
were sorry to find the Countess C  a very much indisposed, and
her courtyard filled with carriages, containing visiters making
inquiries. I shall now send off my letters by the packet, that you
may see we are safely re-estabhshed in Mexico.

280

LETTER THE THIRTY-SEVENTH.
Distinguished Men— Generals Bustamante, Santa Anna, and Victoria— Anecdote
—Seiior Pedraza — Senor Gutierrez Estrada — Count Cortina — Seiior Goros-
tiza — Don Carlos Bustamante—" Mornings in the Alameda" — Don Andres
Quintana Roo — Don Lucas Alaman — General Moran — General Almonte —
Senor Canedo — Sefiors Neri del Barrio and Casaflores — Doctor Valentin —
Don Francisco Tagle — Eight Revolutions. 27th.
H  in his last letter asks what distinguished men we have in
Mexico ? and Avith a tone of doubt as to their being very numerous.
Distinguished in what way ? As generals, as statesmen, as men of
hterature ? It seems to me that a country where we have known
Bustamante, Santa Anna, General Victoria, Posada, Gomez Pedraza,
Gutierrez Estrada, Count Cortina, Gorostiza, Don Carlos Busta
mante, Quintana Roo, General Moran, Don Lucas Alaman, Genera!
Almonte, Seiior Cafiedo, Don Francisco Tagle, Senor Neri del
Barrio, Sefior Fagoaga, Don Jos6 Valentin, the Count de Casaflores,
&c. &c, is not so destitute of distinguished men as he supposes. The
preceding are, I confess, strung together as they occur to me, without
order or regularity ; soldiers, statesmen, and hterary men, some on
one side of pohtics, some on another, but ah men of note, and men
who have acted, or suffered, or been distinguished in one way or ano
ther in the revolutions of the last thirty-two years. And there is not
one amongst those I have mentioned, who, if he were to write merely
his personal history, would not by so doing write the history of these
civil wars. The three first, as principal figures in every revolution,
are already historical ; Bustamante as an honest man and a brave
soldier ; Santa Anna as an acute general, active and aspiring, whose
name has aprestige, whether for good orforevil,thatno other possesses;
General Victoria, a plain, uneducated well-intentioned man, brave and
enduring. A passage in his life is weh known, which ought to be men
tioned as an offset to the doubtful anecdote of the two-headed eagle.
When Yturbide, alone, fallen and a prisoner, was banished from Mex
ico, and when General Bravo, who had the charge of conducting him
to Vera Cruz, treated him with every species of indignity, Victoria,
the sworn foe of the emperor during his prosperity, now, when
orders were given him to see Yturbide embarked, surrounded him
with attentions, and loaded him with respectful distinctions ; so that
Yturbide hhnself, moved with gratitude, after expressing his warm
esteem for the General'sconsistent conduct, presented him with his
watch as a memorial of his grateful admiration.

DISTINGUISHED MEN. 281
As for Don Manuel Gomez Pedraza, he has occupied too distin
guished a place in the pohtical occurrences of this country, not to be
generahy known. An officer in the time of the Spanish government,
he was distinguished for his severe disciphne and strict moral conduct.
In the time of Yturbide he was military commandant of Huasteca,
and supported the emperor who afterwards made him commander-
general of Mexico. In 1827 he was minister of war, during the
presidency of Victoria, and was distinguished for his extraordinary
activity, which quality was greatly wanting in that general. In 1828
he and Guerrero were announced as candidates for the presidency,
and after a terrible pohtical tempest, Gomez Pedraza was elected.
The fermentation that succeeded, the fury of the two parties, the
Guerreristas and Pedrazistas, which were mingled with Yturbidistas,
was increased by the arrival of Santa Anna at Perote with eight
hundred men, who, having shut himself up in the fortress, declared
for Guerrero, and pubhshed a manifesto, which set forth that general
as a hero, and his rival as a hypocrite. Then came the famous revo
lution of the Acordada, and both Pedraza and Guerrero disappeared.
Pedraza left the Repubhc, and after another revolution, hearing that
" the constitution and laws were re-established," returned to Vera
Cruz ; but was met by an order which prohibited him from disem
barking. He then set sail for New Orleans. Another change brought
him back ; and at this present juncture he hves in tranquilhty, to
gether with his lady, a person of extraordinary talent and learning,
daughter of the Lizenciado (jurisconsult) Sefior Azcarate. Such are
the disturbed hves passed by the " children of the soil."
Of Gutierrez Estrada, now far from his household gods, and lan
guishing under unjust persecution, I have already spoken. Count
Cortina is a gentleman and a scholar, a man of vast information, and
a protector of the fine arts. His conversation is a series of electric
sparks ; brihiant as an ignis fatuus, and bewildering as a wih-o'-the-
wisp. I have seldom heard such eloquence even in trifles ; and he
writes with as much ease as he speaks. We have seen three clever
pieces of his lately, showing his versatile genius ; one upon earth
quakes, one upon the devil, and one upon the holy fathers of the
church ! — the first in the form of a pamphlet, addressed to a lady,
giving a scientific explanation of the causes of these phenomena, in
terspersed vrith comphments to her beaux yeux ; the second is a bur
lesque poem ; and the third a grave aid learned dissertation.
Don Jose Eduardo Gorostiza, though a native of Vera Cruz,_ is
the son of a Spanish officer, and when very young went to Spam,
where he was known politically as a hberal. He was distinguished as
a writer of theatrical pieces, which have been and stih are very po
pular ; and those which he merely translated, he had the merit of
adapting to the Spanish stage, and Castilianizing in grace and wit.
One of his pieces, which we saw the other evening at the theatre
" Con tigo, pan y cebolla," (With thee, bread and onions,) is delight
ful. Besides occupying a place in the Cabinet of Mexico, he has been

282 DON CARLOS BUSTAMANTE.
Charge d' Affaires in Holland, and Minister at the Court of St. James.
In conversation he is extremely witty and agreeable, and he has
collected some good paintings and valuable books in the course of
his European travels.
The reputation of Don Carlos Bustamante, deputy from Oajaca,
is altogether literary. He has made many researches in Mexican
antiquities ; and has published a history of the " Discovery of Ame
rica," written by Padre Vega, which was unknown before ; also the
" Gahery of Mexican Princes ;" " Tezcoco in the last Days of its last
Kings," &c. He lately sent me his " Mornings in the Alameda," a
book intended to teach Mexican young ladies the history of theh own
country. I have read but a few pages of it, but was struck with the
liberality of his remarks in regard to the Spaniards, which, coming
from such a source, are so much more valuable and worthy of credit
than any that can be made by a foreigner, that I am tempted to
translate the passage to which I ahude. " The Spanish government
founded coheges and academies in the reign of the wise Charles the
Third ; it estabhshed that of fine arts, which it enriched with the
most beautiful statues, which you can stih see when you visit it.
(" Their transportation," he says in a note, " cost seventy thousand
dohars.") He sent excehent workmen, and imitated his predecessor
Philip the Second, who sent to Mexico whatever could not find a
place in the works of the Escurial. Of his wisdom, we have proofs
in those magnificent temples which attract the attention of travellers,
such as the Cathedral of Mexico, San Agustin, Santo Domingo of
Oaxaca, and others. Spain did no more, because she could do no
more, and Spain gave to this America a constitution, which the
Mexicans themselves, who pride themselves most on theh learning,
are unacquainted with ; and whose analysis was formed by the
learned padre Mier, in the History of the Revolution, which he
printed in London ; a constitution, m wlfich are made manifest the
good intentions of the Austrian monarchs ; and their earnest desire
to render the Indians happy ; especially in the case of the great
Philip the Fourth, whose autograph law is preserved ; and which I
have read with respect and emotion, prohibiting the bad treatment
of the Indians. In short, this America, if it were considered in a
state of slavery under the Spanish dominion, was at least on a level
with the peninsula itself. Read over the frightful hst of taxes which
oppressed the Spaniards, and compare it with those that were im
posed upon us, and you, will find that theirs is infinitely greater than
ours. These truths being granted, remark the progress wlfich the
colonies had made in sciences and arts, and tlfis truth which escaped
from the hght pen of the censor Beristain, will be confirmed. Mexico,
he says, was the sunflower of Spain. When in her principal uni
versities there were no learned men to fill the mathematical chairs,
Mexico could boast of Don Carlos de Siguenza y Gdngora : when
in Madrid there was no one who had written a good epic poem, in
Mexico the Bernardo was composed ;" &c. &c.

GENERAL MORAN, ETC. 283
The next on my list is Don Andres Quintana Roo, the best
modern poet of Mexico, a native of Yucatan, and who came to the
capital when very young, to study law. He is said to possess immense
learning,, and was enthusiastic to fanaticism in the cause of inde
pendence ; insomuch that he and his wife Dona Leona Vicario,
who shared in his ardent love of hberty, braved every danger in its
cause, suffered imprisonment, escaped from the Inquisition, from the
hands of robbers, endured every privation, so that their history
would form a romance. He is now devoted to hterature, and though
he occasionahy launches forth some pohtical pamphlet, he is pro
bably wearied of revolutions, and possesses all the calmness of a man
whose first years have been spent in excitement and troubles, and
who at length finds consolation in study alone ; the well of science
proving to him the waters of Lethe, in Avhich he drinks the ob
livion of all his past sorrows. And it is very much the case in
Mexico at present, that the most distinguished men are those who
hve most retired ; those who have played their part on the arena of
pubhc hfe, have seen the inutihty of their efforts in favour of their
country, and have now retreated into the bosom of their famihes,
where they endeavour to forget pubhc evils in domestic retirement
and hterary occupation.
Amongst these may be reckoned Don Lucas Alaman, who
passed many years in Em-ope, and in 1820, was deputy to the
Spanish Cortes. Shortly after his return, he became minister of
foreign relations, which high office he has filled during various
seasons of difficulty* He is a man of learning, and has always
been a protector of art and science. In conversation he is more re
served, less brihiant, and more minute than Count Cortina, always
expressing his opinion with caution, but very ready and able to give
information on any thing in this country, unconnected with politics.
General Moran, now infirm, and long since retired from public ser
vice, is universally respected both as a mihtary man and a gentle
man. He is married to a daughter of the late Marquis de Vivanco,
general of division, Avho long held out against the independence, and
when the colonial system was dissolved, would never go further than
to desire a prince of royal birth in Mexico. General Moran has
been exiled several times, and his health has not held out against
bodily and mental suffering ; but he is ending his days in a tranquil
retirement in the midst of his family. Of General Almonte and
of Sefior Canedo, who are figuring in pubhc hfe in our own day, I
have frequently written.
Senor Neri del Barrio and the Count de Casaflores, married to
sisters, ladies of high birth, the eldest a countess in her own right,
are, as weh as their famihes, all that is most distinguished in Mexico.
Sefior Fagoaga, who is now in bad health, I know only by reputa
tion. He is brother of the Marquis of Apartado, and of the cele
brated Don Jose Maria Fagoaga, with whose family we have the
* He is now, September, 1842, once more filling the same situation under
General Santa Anna.

284 REVOLUTIONS.
pleasure of being very intimate. C  n says, that he is a man of
great taste and a thorough gentleman, and that his house, which is
one of the handsomest in Mexico, possesses that ornament so rare in
this country — well-chosen paintings. Don Jose Valentin, who has
figured in the pohtical world, and who was curate of Huamautla, is
one of the kindest and best old men I have ever met with; so severe
to himself, so indulgent to others — so simple in worldly matters, so
learned in every thing else — so sincere, good, and charitable. He
is a universal favourite with young and old, being cheerful, fond of
music, and of gay conversation, in proportion as he is wise and
learned in his observations, and serious in his conversation when the
occasion requires it. Doctor Valentin as an ecclesiastic, and Padre
Leon as a monk, are models.
As for Don Francisco Tagle, he is a gentleman of the old school,
and his name figures in ah the pohtical events which have taken
place since the Independence, of which he was one of the signers.
He is very rich, possessing besides a profitable maguey estate near
Mexico, enormous property bounding Texas, and being also the
keeper of the Monte Pio, formerly the house of Cortes, a palace, in
which he and his family live. He is a man of great learning and
information, and too distinguished not to have suffered personally in
political convulsions. Whether he would, choose the same path,
with his present experience of a Mexican repubhc, he is too wise to
mention. He and his family are amongst our most intimate friends,
and with a few exceptions all those whom I have mentioned have
been here since our return, which is one of the reasons why their
names occurred first to my memory; for there are stih many dis
tinguished persons remaining.
Nearly all these, at least ah who are married, have had the good
fortune to unite themselves with women who are either their equals
or superiors, if not in ^education, — in goodness, elevation of senti
ment, and natural talent. They, as weh as every Mexican, whether
man or woman, not under forty, have hved under the Spanish
government; have seen the revolution of Dolores of 1810, with
continuations and variations by Morelos, and parahzation in 1819 ;
the revolution of Yturbide in 1821; the cry of Liberty (grito de
Libertad) given by those generals " benemeritos de la patria," Santa
Anna and Victoria, in 1822; the estabhshment of the federal sys
tem in 1824; the horrible revolution of the Acordada, in which
Mexico was pihaged, in 1828 ; the adoption of the central system
in 1836 ; and the last revolution of the federahsts in 1840. An
other is predicted for next month, as if it were an echpse of the
sun. In nineteen years, three forms of government have been tried,
and two constitutions, the reform of one of which is stih pending
in the Chambers. " Dere is notink like trying !" (as the old per-
ruquier observed, when he set out in a httle boat, to catch the royal
yacht, stih in sight of Scottish shores, with a new wig of his own
invention, which he had trusted to have been permitted to present
to his most gracious majesty George the Fourth !)

285

LETTER THE THIRTY-EIGHTH.
New Minister — San Angel — Profitable Pulque Estate — The Village — Surround
ing Scenery — The Indians — The Padre — The Climate — Holy Week in the
Country — Dramatic Representations — Coyohuacan — The Pharisees — Image
of the Saviour — Music and Dresses — Procession — Catholicism amongst the
Indians — Strange Tradition — Paul the Fifth — Contrast between a Mexican
and a New England Village — Love of Fireworks — Ferdinand the Seventh —
Military Ball — Drapeaux. San Angel, March 30th.
It is a long while since I last wrote, but this week has been em
ployed in moving into the country, and making arrangements for
the sale of our furniture, in consequence of our having received
official news from Spain of the nomination of a new envoy extra
ordinary and minister plenipotentiary to the repubhc of Mexico.
As, on account of the yehow fever at Vera Cruz, we shall not wish
to pass through that city later than May, it is necessary to be in
readiness to start when the new minister arrives. On Thursday last
we came out to this place, within three leagues of Mexico, where
Don Francisco Tagle has kindly lent us his unoccupied country
house. As we had an infinity of arrangements to make, much to
bring out, and much to leave, and all Mexico to see, you wih excuse
this long silence. Our house in town we leave to the guardianship
of the housekeeper; the other servants fohow us here.
This house is very large, and has a fine garden and orchard full
of fruit, with pretty walks ah through it, and a sort of underwood
of roses and sweet peas. It is a great pulque hacienda, and, besides
what is sent into Mexico for sale, the court is constantly filled with
the half-naked Indians from the vihage, who come to have their
jarros fihed with that inspiring beverage. Then there lsDofia Bar
bara (the guardian of the pulque), a Spanish administrador,_ a
number of good-looking Indian women, and babies a. discretion.
There is a smah chapel, a piazza, with handsome pillars going all
round the interior court-yard of the house, a billiard-table, and
plenty of good rooms. In front of the house are the maguey-fields,
and the azotea commands a beautiful view of the neighbouring vil
lages, San Angel, Coyohuacan, Miscuaque, &c, with their woods and
gardens, as well as of the city itself, with its lakes and volcanoes.
As C  n's affairs take him to Mexico nearly every day, we feel
a httle lonely in this large house, even though perfectly comfortable _;
and besides the extreme stillness and sohtude, it is not considered
safe for us to walk out alone; consequently the orchard must bound
our wishes. And, of course, being prohibited from going further,

286 SAN ANGEL.
we have the greatest desire to do so ! In the evening, however,
when our caballeros return, we frequently walk down to the village,
where the. Enghsh minister has also a house.
San Angel is pretty in its own way, with its fields of maguey, its
scattered houses, that look hke the beaux restes of better days, its
market-place, parish church, church of El Carmen, with the monas
tery and high-walled gardens adjoining ; with its narrow lanes,
Indian huts, profusion of pink roses, httle bridge and avenue, and
scattered clusters of trees ; its houses for temperamento (constitution,
as they cah those where Mexican families come to reside in summer),
with their grated windows, and gardens and orchards; and then the
distant view of Mexico, with the cathedral towers, volcanoes, and
lofty mountains, scattered churches and long hnes of trees ; and
nearer, the pretty villages of Coyohuacan and Miscuaque; and every
where the old church, the broken arch, the ancient cross, with its
faded flower-garlands, to commemorate a murder, or erected as an
act of piety — all is so characteristic of Mexico, that the landscape
could belong to no other part of the known world.
There is the Indian with his blanket, extracting the pulque from
the maguey ; the ranchero, with her reboso and broad-brimmed hat,
passing by upon her ass; the old lepero, in rags, sitting basking in
the sun upon the stone seat in front of the door; the poor Indian
woman, with matted hair and brovm baby hanging behind her,
refreshing herseh by drinking three elacos (halfpence) worth of pulque
from ajarrilo (little earthen jar); the portly and well-looking padre
prior del Carden (the Carmelite friar), sauntering up the lane at a
leisurely pace, all the httle ragged boys, down to the merest urchin
that can hardly hsp, dragging off their large, well-holed hats, with
a" Buenos dias, padrecito!" (Good morning, httle father!) — the
father replying with a benevolent smile, and a shght sound in his
throat intended for a Benedicite ; and ah that might be duh in any
other chmate brightened and made light and gay by the purest
atmosphere, and bluest sky, and softest ah-, that ever blew or shone
upon a naughty world.
We are now approaching the holy week once more — in Mexico a
Scene of variety in the streets and of splendour in the churches; but
in the country a play, a sort of melo-drama, in which the sufferings,
death, and burial of our Saviour are represented by living figures in
pantomime. We have heard a great deal of these representations,
and are glad to have the opportunity of seeing them, Avhich we intend
to do in the village of Coyohuacan, where they are particularly
curious. Besides this, our friends the A  s have a house there
for the season, and, as the city of Cortes's predilection, it is classic
ground. Meanwhile, for the last few days, the country has been
overrun with Pharisees, Nazarenes, Jews, and figures of the Saviour,
carried about in procession; ah this in preparation for the holy week,
a sort of overture to the drama.
The first evening we arrived here there was a representation of

INDIAN SUPERSTITION. 287.
the Pharisees searching for Christ. The Pharisees were very finely
dressed, either in scarlet stuff and gold or in green and silver, with
helmets and feathers, mounted upon horses which are taught to
dance and rear to the sound of music, so that upon the whole they
looked hke performers at Astley's. They came on with music,
riding up the lanes until they arrived in front of this house, which
bemg the principal place hereabouts, they came to first, and where
the Indian workmen and servants were all collected to see them.
They rode about for some time, as if in search of Christ, until a full-
length figure of the Saviour appeared, dressed in purple robes, ear
ned on a platform by four men, and guarded on all sides by soldiers.
It is singular, that after all there is nothing ridiculous in these exhi
bitions ; on the contrary, something rather terrible. In the first
place, the music is good, which would hardly be the case in any
but a Mexican village; the dresses are really rich, the gold all real,
and the whole has the effect of confusing the imagination into the
belief of its being a true scene.
_ The next evening the same procession passed, with some addi
tions, always accompanied by a crowd of Indians from the villages,
men, women, and children. Bonfires were made before the door
of the hacienda, which were hghted whenever the distant music was
heard approaching, and all the figures in the procession carried
hghted lamps. The Saviour was then led up to the door, and all
the crowd went up to kiss his feet. The figure which is carried about
this evening is cahed " Our Saviour of the Column," and represents
the Saviour tied to a pillar, bleeding, and crowned with thorns.
Ah this must sound very profane, but the people are so quiet, seem so
devout, and so much in earnest, that it appears much less so than you
would beheve. ...
The cross was planted here in a congenial soil, and as in the
Pagan East the statues of the divinities frequently did no more than
change their names from those of heathen gods to those of Christian
saints, and image-worship apparently continued, though the mind
of the Christian was directed from the being represented to the true
and only God who inhabits eternity, so here the poor Indian still
bows before visible representations of saints and virgins, as he did
in former days before the monstrous shapes representing the unseen
powers of the air, the earth, and the water ; but he, it is to be feared,
hfts his thoughts no higher than the rude image which a rude hand
has carved. The mysteries of Christianity, to affect his untutored
mind, must be visibly represented to his eyes. He kneels before
the bleeding image of the Saviour who died for him, before the
gracious form of the Virgin who intercedes for him ; but he believes
that there are many Virgins, of various gifts, and possessing various
degrees of miraculous power and different degrees of wealth, accord
ing to the quahty and number of the diamonds and pearls with which
they are endowed — one even who is the rival of the other — one who
will bring rain when there is drought, and one to whom it is weh to

288 NEW ENGLAND VILLAGE.
pray in seasons of inundation. Mexico owes much of its peculiar
beauty to the religious or superstitious feehngs of its inhabitants.
At every step we see a white cross gleaming amongst the trees, in a
sohtary path, or on the top of some rugged and barren rock — a
symbol of faith in the desert place; and wherever the footsteps of
man have rested, and some three or four have gathered together,
there, whole the ruined huts proclaim the poverty of the inmates, the
temple of God rises in comparative splendour.
It is strange, yet weh authenticated, and has given rise to many
theories, that the symbol of the cross was aheady knovm to the In
dians before the arrival of Cortes. In the island of Cozumel, near
Yucatan, there were several; and in Yucatan itself, there was a stone
cross; and there, an Indian, considered a prophet among his country
men, had declared that a nation bearing the same as a symbol, should
arrive from a distant country ! More extraordinary stih was a tem
ple dedicated to the Holy Cross by the Toltec nation in the city of
Cholula. Near Tulansingo also, there is a cross engraved on a rock,
with various characters, which the Indians by tradition attribute to
the apostle Saint Thomas. In Oajaca also there existed a cross
which the Indians from time immemorial had been accustomed to
consider as a divine symbol. By order of the Bishop Cervantes, it
was placed in a sumptuous chapel in the cathedral. Information
concerning its discovery, together with a smah cross cut out of its
wood, was sent to Rome to Paul the Fifth, who received it on his
knees, singing the hymn, " Vexilla Regis prodeunt," &c.
_ If any one wishes to try the effect of strong contrast, let him come
direct from the United States to this country; but it is in the vil
lages especiahy that the contrast is most striking. Travelling in
New England, for example, we arrive at a smah and flourishing
village. We see four new churches, proclaiming four different sects ;
rehgion suited to ah customers. These wooden churches or meeting
houses are ah new_, ah painted white, or perhaps a bright red. Hard
by is a tavern with a green pahng, as clean and as new as the
churches, and there are also various smart stores and neat dwelling-
houses; all new, ah wooden, ah clean, and ah ornamented with shght
Grecian pillars. The whole has a cheerful, trim, and flourishing
aspect. Houses, churches, stores, and taverns, ah are of a piece.
They are suited to the present emergency, whatever that may be,
though they will never make fine ruins. Every thing proclaims
prosperity equality, consistency; the past forgotten, the present ah
in all, and the future taking care of itself. No dehcate attentions to
posterity, who can never pay its debts. No beggars. If a man has
even a hole m his coat, he must be lately from the Emerald Isle
Transport yourself in imagination from this New England viflage
to that of  , it matters not which, not far from Mexico. ' ' Look
on this_ picture, and on that." The Indian huts, with their half-
naked inmates, and httle gardens fuU of flowers; the huts themselves
either built of clay, or the half-ruined beaux restes of some stone build-

FERDINAND THE SEVENTH. 289
ing. At a little distance an hacienda, hke a deserted palace, built
of sohd masonry, with its inner patio surrounded by thick stone
pillars, with great wahs and hon-barred windows that might stand
a siege. Here a ruined arch and cross, so sohdly built, that one
cannot but wonder how the stones ever crumbled away. There,
rising in the midst of old faithful-looking trees, the church, grey and
ancient, but strong as if designed for eternity; with its saints and
virgins, and martyrs and rehcs, its gold and silver and precious
stones, whose value would buy up all the spare lots in the New Eng
land vihage; the lepero with scarce a rag to cover him, kneeling
on that marble pavement. Leaving the enclosure of the church,
observe the stone wall that bounds the road for more than a mile ;
the fruit trees overtopping it, high though it be, with their loaded
branches. This is the convent orchard. And that great Gothic phe
of building, that stands in hoary majesty, surmounted by the lofty
mountains, whose cloud enveloped summits, tinged by the evening
sun, rise behind it; what could so noble a building be but the
monastery, perhaps of the Carmelites, because of its exceeding rich
garden, and well-chosen site, for they, of ah monks, are richest in
this Avorld's goods. Also we may see the reverend old prior riding
slowly from under the arched gate up the vihage lanes, the Indians
coming from their huts to do him lowly reverence as he passes.
Here, every thing reminds us of the past ; of the conquering Spaniards,
who seemed to build for eternity; impressing each work with their
own sohd, grave, and rehgious character; of the triumphs of Catho
licism; and of the Indians when Cortes first startled them from their
repose, and stood before them hke the fulfilment of a half-forgotten
prophecy. It is the present that seems hke a dream, a pale reflection
of the past. All is decaying and growing fainter, and men seem
trusting to some unknown future which they may never see. One
government has been abandoned, and there is none in its place.
One revolution follows another; yet the remedy is not found. Let
them beware lest half a century later, they be awakened from their
delusion, and find the cathedral turned into a meeting-house, and ah
painted white; the railing melted down; the silver transformed into
dohars; the Virgin's jewels sold to the highest bidder; the floor
washed (which would do it no harm), and round the whole, a nice
new wooden paling, freshly done in green — and ah this performed
by some of the artists from the wide-awake repubhc further north.
Just as I wrote these words, a shower of crackers startled me from
the profane ideas in which I was indulging, and the prancing of the
horses of Jews and Pharisees, and the crackhng of bonfires, warn
me that it is time to take an evening stroll, that the sun is down,
and the air refreshing. However, as to crackers and rockets, the
common people enjoy them by day as much as by night. It is their
favourite method of commemorating any event, evil or rehgious.
" What do you suppose the Mexicans wih be doing now?" said
King Ferdinand to a Mexican who was at the Spanish court, shortly

290 HOLY THURSDAY.
after the final success of the Revolutionists. " Letting off rockets,
your Majesty," answered the Mexican. " Well — I wonder what
they are doing now in Mexico !" said the King in the afternoon.
" Tirando cohetes — letting off rockets, your Majesty." His Majesty
chose to repeat the question in the evening. " What will your
countrymen be doing now?" " The same thing, your Majesty.
Still letting off rockets."
Yesterday we drove into Mexico, to see how matters stood in our
house, and received a number of visiters in our deserted apart
ments. Just before we left Mexico for this place, three very mag
nificent aides-de-camp brought us an invitation from General Valen
cia, to attend a bah to be given by him and other officers, in the
theatre, to the president, on the occasion of his excehency 's being
declared " benemerito de la patria." We did not go, as we were
setting off for the country, but C  n being requested, as were the
other ministers, to send the colours of his nation, did so, and to-day
there is much talk in Mexico, besides a paragraph in the newspapers,
connected with these matters. It appears that the drapeaux,
whether by accident or design, were improperly placed, and these
faults in etiquette are not uncommon here. The Enghsh minister
having observed that his drapeau was placed in a subordinate rank.
and finding that his warnings beforehand on the subject, and his
representations on seeing it were neglected, cut it down and left the
ball-room, followed by all the Enghsh who were there.

LETTER THE THIRTY-NINTH.

Holy Thursday at Coyohuacan— Hernan Cortes— His Last Wishes— Padres
Camuas—0\d Church— Procession— Representation of the Taking of Christ
— Curate's Sermon under the Trees— A Religious Drama— Good Friday-
Portable Pulpit— Heat— Booths— Religious Procession— Symon the Cyre-
nian— Costumes— Curate's Sermon— Second Discourse— Sentence Pro
nounced by Pontius Pilate— Descent from the Cross— Procession of the
Angels— Funeral Hymn— The Pesame to the Virgin— Sermon— " Sweet
Kitty Clover"— Music in Mexico— Anecdote.
On Holy Thursday we went early in the morning to Coyohuacan
(now pronounced Cuyacan), which is ahnost a continuation of the vil
lage of San Angel ; but there are more trees in it, and every house has
its garden, or at least its inner court, fihed with orange trees. Here,

PADRES CAMILOS. 291
after the total destruction of the ancient Tenochtitlan, Cortes took
up Iris residence for several months. Here he founded a convent of
nuns, and in his testament he desired to be buried in this convent,
" in whatever part of the world I may finish my days." The con
queror's last wishes in this respect were not held sacred. At the
time of the conquest, Coyohuacan, together with Tacubaya, &c,
stood upon the margin of the Lake of Tezcuco ; most of the houses
built within the water upon stakes, so that the canoes entered by
a low door. This was undoubtedly the favourite retreat of Cortes,
and it is now one of the prettiest villages near Mexico. Its church
is wonderfully handsome; one of the finest vihage churches we haAre
yet seen.
One of the prettiest places in the village belongs to an order of
monks cahed the Padres Camilos. It consists of a house and
garden, where the monks go by turns to enjoy the country air.
Comfortable padres ! There is one room looking into the garden,
and opening into a walk bordered by rose-bushes, which is such a
place for a siesta ; cool, retired, fragrant. A hammock with a mat
tress on it is slung across the room, and here the good padre may
he, with one eye opened to the roses, and the other closed in inward
meditation. However, its whole merit consists in being cleanly and
neatly kept, for it is a large, empty house, and the garden so called,
is httle more than a pasture-field, with nice gravel walks cut
through it, bordered with fine rose-bushes, and beautified by a
clear fountain.
We went to the A  s house, which is hah way between San
Angel and Coyohuacan ; the Sefiora A  driving me herself, in
an open carratella with -whitefrisones (northern horses), which, com
pared with the spirited httle Mexican steeds, look gigantic. We
went first to see the church, which was brilhantly illuminated, and
ornamented with loads of flowers and fruit (especially oranges), and
thronged with ragged leperos and blanketed Indians. We then set
off, to endeavour, if possible, to find a place in the crowd, who had
hurried off to see el prendimiento (the taking of Christ), and to hear
the curate preach an appropriate sermon in a portable pulpit,
amongst the trees.
We made our way through the patient, bronzed and blanketed
crowd, not without sundry misgivings as to the effects of evil com
munication ; and at length reached the procession, all ranged on
the grass under the trees, in a pretty and secluded httle grove ; in
two long rows fronting each other; each person carrying a lamp
surmounted by a plume of coloured feathers, very ingeniously made
of coloured spun glass. They Avere all dressed in the costume of
Pharisees, JeAvs, Romans, &c. The image of the Saviour Avas.
shortly after carried through on a platform, to the sound of music,
followed by the eleven disciples, and was placed in a kind of boAver
amongst the trees, supposed to give a representation of the garden
of Gethsemane. A portable pulpit, covered with shining stuff, was
x

292 SERMON.
carried in, and placed beneath a tree just outside of tlfis enclosure,
and soon after, the curate arrived, and mounted into his place. A
number of httle ragged^boys, who had chmbed up on the very topmost
branches of the trees, to have a good view, were piked down with
lances by the Jews, notwithstanding their seemingly just remon
strances that they were doing no harm; but when the Jews ob
served in answer to then- " Que hacemos?" " What are we
doing?!' — " The Sefior Cura wih be angry;" — they tumbled down
one on the top of the other hke ripe apples, and then stood watch
ing for the first convenient opportunity of slipping up again.
The curate began his sermon by an account of the sufferings and
persecution of Christ; of the causes and effects of his death, of the
sinfulness of the Jews, &c. He talked for about hah an hour, and
his sermon was simple enough and adapted to his audience. He
described the agony of Christ when in the garden to which he
often resorted with his disciples, and the treachery of Judas who
knew the place, and who " having received a band of men and
officers from the chief priests and pharisees, cometh thither with
lanterns and torches and weapons." As he went on describing the
circumstances minutely, one who represented the spy, with a hor
rible mask hke a pig's face, was seen looking through the trees
where the Saviour was concealed; and shortly after, Judas, his
face covered with a black crape, and followed by a band of soldiers^
ghded through stealthily. " Now," said the curate, " observe what
the traitor does. He hath given them a sign, saying, ' Whomsoever
1 shall kiss, that same is he — hold him fast.' He goes — he approaches
the-sacred person of the Lord." Here Judas went forward and em
braced the Saviour. " It is done !" cried the preacher. " The hor
rible act of treachery is completed. And forthwith he came to
Jesus, and said, Hail, Master, and kissed him. But now, Jesus
knowing all things that should come upon him, went forth and said
unto them, Whom seek ye ? They answered him, Jesus of Naza
reth. Jesus saith unto them, J am he." As the curate said these
words, they all feh prostrate on the ground. " Mark," cried he,
"the power of the Word! They came out to take him with
swords and with staves, but at the" sound of the Divine Word,
they acknowledge the power of God, and fall at His feet. But it
is_ only for a moment. Behold, now they bind him, they buffet
him, they smite him with the pahns of their hands, they lead him
away to the high priest."
All tlfis was enacted in succession, though sometimes the curate
was obhged to repeat the same things several times before they
recollected what to do. "And aheady, in anticipation of the
iniquitous sentence, behold what is written." This alluded to a
paper fastened upon a pole, which a man held above the heads of
the crowd, and on which was written, " Jesus of Nazareth, King of
the Jews, condemned to death by Pontius Pilate, President of
Upper Galilee."

SIMON THE CYRENIAN. 293
And now, escorted by Judas and the multitude, the Saviour was
borne through the crowd, in conclusion of the prendimiento. The
curate wound up his discourse by an exhortation to abstain from sin,
which had been the cause of this awful event. I regret to state
that at this very moment, a man poked his hand into A  's
pocket, who turned very sharply round, and asked him what he
wanted; "Nada, Seiiorito," (Nothing, sir,) said he, with an inno
cent smile, showing two rows of teeth hke an ivory railing, but at
the same time disappearing pretty swiftly amongst the crowd, Avho
now _ all began to move, and. to follow the procession, the band
striking up a galope. In the evening we returned to San Angel,
and visited the lighted churches there. As it was late when we
entered the parroquia (parish church), the lights were nearly ah ex
tinguished, and a few alone of the devout were stih kneeling before
a figure of our Saviour in chains 
On Good Friday we set off early for Coyohuacan, though rather
afraid of the sun, which at present, in the middle of the day, is in
supportable, and even by ten o'clock disagreeable. The whole
enclosure round the church, and to a great distance beyond it, was
covered with people, and there were even a few carriages fuh of
well-dressed persons, who had come from the different neighbouring
haciendas ; amongst others, the family of the Marquesa de Vivanco.
The padre Yturalde, who has some reputation for eloquence, was
expected to preach three sermons at Coyohuacan that day, besides
one in the village of Mizcuaque. We found that one sermon was
just concluded. By the time we arrived the sun was pouring down
his beams hke molten lead. Our carriage was open, and under
every tree was a crowd, so there were small hopes of finding shade.
Women were selhng fruit ; and booths with ices and chia were
erected ah down the lane leading from the church. At last, however,
a httle room was made, and seats were placed for us .close to the
pulpit, and under a tree.
The image of the Saviour was now carried forwards on a plat
form, with the heavy cross appearing to weigh him down ; and on
the same platform was Simon, the Cyrenian, assisting him to bear
the weight. The Cyrenian was represented by an old man, with
hair as white as snow, dressed in scarlet cloth ; who, in a stooping
posture, and without once moving his body, was carried about for
hours in the whole force of the sun, the rays pouring down upon his
uncovered head. For a long while we had believed him to be a
wooden figure dressed up, and when he came near he greatly excited
our surprise and compassion. If he survives this day's work it will
be a miracle. I can now almost give faith to  's assertion, that
in some of the villages the man who represents Judas actuahy hangs
himself, or is hanged upon a tree ! The Saviour was dressed in
crimson velvet, with the crown of thorns ; and a figure of the
Virgin, in deep mourning, was carried after him by Indian women.
The procession consisted of the same men on horseback as we had
x2

294 THE SENTENCE.
seen on foot the preceding day; of the Spy, the Pharisees, the Jews,
the Betrayer, and the mob. Some had helmets and feathers, and
armour. Some wore wreaths of green and gold leaves. One very
good-looking man, with long curls and a gold crown, and a splendid
mantle of scarlet and gold, was intended for a Roman. By his
crown he probably meant to personify the Roman Caesar. The
sermon, or rather the discourse of the padre, was very good, and ap
peared to be extempore. He made an address to the Virgin, who
was carried by and led up to the pulpit, and another to the Saviour,
during which time the audience Avas breathlessly attentive, not
withstanding the crying of children and the barking of dogs. It
was supposed that they were now leading Christ before the judg
ment-seat of Pilate, and the next scene was to be the dehvery of the
sentence. When the curate's discourse was finished, the procession went on;
the Indian Avomen began to seh their nuts and oranges, and the
band struck up an air in the distance, to which, when last I heard
it, Ducrow's horses were dancing ! We, in a fiery sun, Avhich made
its way through our mantillas, now proceeded to search for a con
venient place from which to hear the padre's next sermon, and to see
the next scene in the sacred drama. The padre, who was walking
under the shade of a hlac silk parasol, insisted upon resigning it to
me. The Sefiora  did not seem to feel the heat at all. At
last, in order to aAroid the crowd, we got up on the low azotea of a
house, beside which the pulpit was placed ; but here the sun was
overwhelming. The padre's sermon was really eloquent in some passages, but
lasted nearly an hour, during which time Ave admired the fortitude
oftheunhappy Cyrenian, who was performing a penance of no ordinary
kind. The sun darted down perpendicularly on the. back of his ex
posed head, Avhich he kept bent downwards, maintaining the same
posture the whole time, without flinching or moving. Before the
sermon was over we could stand the heat no longer, and went in
under cover. I felt as if my brains Avere melted into a hot jelly.
We emerged upon hearing that the procession was again moving
towards the pulpit, where it shortly after formed itself into two hnes.
In a few moments a man with a plumed helmet, mounted on a fiery
horse, galloped furiously through the ranks, holding a paper on the
point of his lance, the sentence pronounced by Pontius Pilate.
Arrived at the pulpit, he handed it up to the priest, who received
it with a look of horror, opened it, tried to read it, and threw it on
the ground with an air of indignation. The messenger gahoped
back more furiously than he came, and his horse bolting at the
end of the lines, occasioned a laugh amongst the spectators.
Then fohWed the parting- address to the Saviour, whose bearers
now brought him up to the pulpit, followed by the mournful
figure of the Virgin. Reflections on the event concluded this act.
We returned in the afternoon, to see the descent from the cross,

THE ANGELS. 295
which was to be performed within the church. The church was
crowded, and a black' curtain hung before the altar. The padre
now recapitulated all that had taken place, and described the
Saviour's parting with his mother at the foot of the cross, address
ing the Virgin Avho stood in her sable robes not far from the
altar, and interrupting his sermon to pray for her intercession with
her Divine Son. I observed all the women in tears as he described
the Virgin's grief, the torments of the crucifixion, the indignities
that the Saviour had suffered. All at once he exclaimed in a loud
voice, "Draw back the veil, and let us behold him!" The
curtain was drawn, and the Saviour crucified appeared. Then the
sobs of the women broke forth. They clasped their hands, beat
their breasts and groaned, while the soldiers Avho stood below the
cross clashed their swords, and one of them struck the body with
a lance. At the same time the Virgin bowed her head, as if in
grief. Unfortunately I was near enough to see how this was
effected, which peep behind the scenes greatly diminished the effect.
Then the soldiers mounted a ladder near the crucifix, and took
down the body, to bear it away. As it came by the pulpit, the
priest seized the hands, and showed the marks of the nails, at the
same time breaking out into exclamations of grief. The soldiers
stood below, impatiently clashing their swords ; the women sobbed
violently; the procession passed on, and we returned to the A  s
house. In the evening the " Procession of the Angels" took place.
Figures dressed in silk and gold, with silver wings, were carried by
on platforms to the sound of music. The body of the Saviour lay
in a sort of glass hearse, carried by men chanting a dirge,, and fol
lowed by the Virgin. This procession was really pretty, but had an
odd, unnatural effect amongst the fresh green trees, the smell of in
cense mingling with the fragrance of the flowers, and the gaudy silk
and gold and plumes of feathers gilded by the soft setting sun, as
they flashed along. I chmbed up an old stone cross near the church,
and had a good view. Every thing looked gaudy when near ; but
as the procession wound along under the broken arches and through
the green lanes, and the music came fainter upon the ear, and the
beating of drums and the tolling of bells and the mournful chant were
ah blended into one faint and distant harmony, the effect was
beautiful. I thought of the simple service of the Scottish lark, and
of the country people coming out after a sermon, with their best
Sunday gowns on, and their serious, intelligent faces, discussing the
merits of their minister's discourse; and wondered at the contrasts in
the same rehgion. ...
As the evening was cool and pleasant we walked through the fields
to the church of La Concepcion, where the procession was to pass,
and sat down on the grass till we heard it coming. As the body
was carried by, all went on their knees. At night commenced the
pesame, or condolence to the Virgin, in the church. She stood on

296 ANECDOTE.
her shrine, with her head bowed down; and the hymns and prayers
were ah addressed to her, while the sermon, preached by another
cura, was also in her honour. I plead guilty to having been too
sleepy to take in more than the general tenor of the discourse. The
musicians seemed to be playing " Sweet Kitty Clover," with
variations. If Sweet Kitty Clover is genuine Irish, as who can
doubt, how did these Indians get hold of it? Did Saint Patrick
go round from the Emerald Isle by way of Tipperary? But, if
he had, would he not have killed the alacrans, and chicaclinos,
and coralillos, and vinagrillos ? This requires consideration.
In the Ora pro nobis, we were struck with the fineness of the
rustic voices. But music in this country is a sixth sense. It was
but a few days before leaving Mexico, that, sitting alone at the open
window, enjoying the short twilight, I heard a sound of distant
music; many voices singing in parts, and coming graduahy nearer.
It sounded beautiful, and exactly in unison with the hour and the
scene. At first I concluded it to be a rehgious procession ; but it
was not a hymn — the air was gayer. When the voices came under
the window, and rose in fuh cadence, I went out on the balcony to
see to whom they belonged. It was the forgats, returning from their
work to the Acordada ! guarded by soldiers, theh chains clanking
in measure to the melody, and accompanied by some miserable-
looking women.
We left the church feehng very tired and sleepy, and walked to
wards the booths, where, in the midst of flowers and evergreens,
they were stih selhng ices, and lemonade and chia. We sat down
to rest in the cleanest of these leafy bowers, and then returned to
Coyohuacan. There was no drunkenness, or quarrelling, or confu
sion of any sort. An occasional hymn, rising in the silence of the
air, or the distant flashing of a hundred lights, alone save notice
that the funeral procession of the Saviour had not yet halted for the
night; but there was no noise, not even mirth. Every thing was
conducted with a sobriety befitting the event that was celebrated.
That some of the curate's horses were stolen that night, is only a
proof that bad men were out, and took the opportunity of his ab
sence from home to plunder his stables. We were told an anecdote
concerning Simon the Cyrenian, wlfich is not bad. A man was
taken up in one of the villages as a vagrant, and desired by the jus
tice to give an account of himseh — to explain why he was always
wandering about, and had no employment. The man, with the
greatest indignation, replied— " No employment! I am substitute
Cyrenian at Coyohuacan in the Holy Week !" That is to say, he
was to be substitute^ in the Cyrenian's place, should any thing occur
to prevent that individual from representing the character.

297

LETTER THE FORTIETH.
Balloon — San Bartolo — Indian Women — A Beauty — Different Castes — Indians
— Their Character, &c. — Those of Noble Race — Ball at the French Minister's
— Abecilta — Danger of Walking Unattended — Shooting Party — A Murder —
Robbery of a Farmhouse — Discomfited Robber Captain — The " Zambos" — .
Letters and Visiters— Country Life in Mexico. 23d April.
We went to Mexico yesterday to see a balloon ascend from the
Plaza de Toros, with an aeronaut and his daughter; French people,
I beheve. The scene was really beautiful. The plaza was filled with
well-dressed people, and all the boxes crowded with ladies in fuh
toilet. The president was there with his staff, and there were
two bands of music. The day was perfectly brilfiant, and the streets
'crowded, with handsome carriages, many of them open. The balloon
sswayed itself up and down in the midst of the plaza like a hving
thing. Every thing seemed ready for the ascent, when it was an
nounced that there was a hole in the balloon, and that, consequently,.
there could be no ascent that day. The people bore their disappoint
ment very good-humouredly, although it was conjectured that the
air traveller had merely proposed to himself to get their money, with
out the shghtest intention of performing his voyage. One amusing
circumstance was, that some penny-a-line rhymer had written an ac
count of it in verse beforehand, giving a most grandiloquent account
of the ascent of the balloon ; and when we came out, the plaza was
full of men selhng these verses, which the people were all buying
and reading with roars of laughter.
The first of May being San Felipe, there will be a bah at the
French Minister's, to which we shall probably go.
_ 25th. — We have just returned from a ride to San Bartolo, an In
dian village, four leagues from this, where we went with a large
party, some on horses, some on asses, others on mules, and one ad
venturous Jehu driving, himself in a four-wheeled carriage, with a
pair of horses, over a road formed of ruts, stones, holes, and rocks,
where, I will venture td say, no carriage ever made its appearance
before. Even the horses and asses got along with difficulty. In
spite of large straw hats and green veils, we were burnt the colour
of red Indians. In the middle of the day, we find the sun intolera
ble at present, and, owing to the badness of the roads, we did not
reach our destination until twelve or one o'clock.

298 SAN BARTOLO.
San Bartolo is a small, scattered Indian vihage, with a church,
and is remarkable for a beautiful spring of water, that jets cold and
clear from the hard rock, as if Moses had but just smote it; for its
superb tall pine trees; for the good looks and cleanness of the Indian
women, who are for ever washing theh long hair in the innumerable
clear streamlets formed by the spring ; and for a view of Mexico,
which is particularly favourable, owing to the thick, dark screen of
pine wood, in the foreground, and the distinct view of the Laguna.
Our dinner was carried by Indians, who had trotted off with it at
day-dawn; but who had taken the wrong road, and did not arrive
tih long after us. We dined under the pine trees by the side of the
stream, but surrounded by crowds of gaping Indians, in too close
vicinity to be agreeable. Some of the young Avomen were remark
ably handsome, with the most beautiful teeth imaginable, laughing
and talking in their native tongue at a great rate, as they were wash
ing in the brooks, some their hair and others their clothes. The
men looked as dirty as Indians generahy do, and by no means on a
level with these handsome damsels, who are so much superior to the
common race of Indians near Mexico, that one would think they had
some intermixture of Spanish blood in their veins. A sister of the
woman' who takes charge of the hacienda where we hve, is one of
the most beautiful creatures I ever beheld. Large eyes, with long
dark lashes, black hair nearly touching the ground, teeth like snow,
a dark but glowing complexion, a superb figure, with fine arms and
hands, and smah beautifully-formed feet. Ah that is best of Indian
and Spanish, " of dark and bright," seems united in her. C  n
says he has seen peasant women in Andalusia in the same style of
beauty, and quite as handsome. She is only nineteen. Such beauties
as these startle one eArery now and then in some remote vihage. She
belongs, no doubt, to the mestizos — the descendants of whites and
Indians, the handsomest race in Mexico.
You ask if the castes in Mexico are distinct. There are seven
supposed to be so. 1st, the Gachupinos, or Spaniards born in Eu
rope; 2d, the Creoles, that is, whites of European family born in
America; 3d, the Mestizos; 4th, the Mulattoes, descendants of whites
and negroes, of whom there are few; 5th, the Zambos, descendants
of negroes and Indians, the ugliest race in Mexico; 6th, the Indians;
and 7th, the remains of the African negroes.
Of pure Indians, Humboldt in his day calculated that there ex
isted two millions and a half in New Spain (without counting mes
tizos), and they are, probably, very little altered from the inferior
Indians, as Cortes found them. The principal famihes perished at
the time of the conquest. The priests, sole depositaries of know
ledge, were put to death; the manuscripts and hieroglyphical paint
ings were burnt, and the remaining Indians fell into that state of
ignorance and degradation, from which they have never emerged.
The rich Indian women preferred marrying their Spanish conquerors
to allying themselves Avith the degraded remnant of their country-

DIFFERENT CASTES. 295>
men; poor artisans, workmen, porters, &c, of whom Cortes speaks
as filhng the streets of the great cities, and as being considered httle
better than beasts of burden ; nearly naked in tierra caliente, dressed
pretty much as they now are in the temperate parts of the country ;
and everywhere with nearly the same manners, and habits, and cus- .
toms, as they now have, but especially in the more distant villages
where they have httle intercourse Avith the other classes. Even in
their rehgion, Christianity, as I observed before, seems to be formed of
the ruins of their mythology ; and all these festivities of the church,
these fireworks and images and gay dresses, harmonize completely -
with their childish love of show, and are, in fact, their greatest source
of delight. To buy these they save up all their money, and when
you give a penny to an Indian child, it trots off to buy crackers, as
another would to buy candy. Attempts have been made by their
curates to persuade them to omit the celebration of certain days,
and to expend less in the ceremonies of others; but the indignation
and discontent which such proposals have caused, have induced them
to desist in their endeavours.
Under an appearance of stupid apathy they veil a great depth of
cunning. They are grave and gentle and rather sad in their ap
pearance, when not under the influence of pulque ; but when they
return to their villages in the evening, and have taken a drop of
comfort, their white teeth hght up their bronze countenances hke
lamps, and the girls especially make the air ring with their laughter,
which is very musical. I think it is Humboldt who says that their
smile is extremely gentle, and the expression of their eyes very
severe. As they have no beard, if it were not for a little moustache,
which they frequently wear on the upper lip, there would be scarcely
any difference between the faces of men and women.
The Indians in and near the capital are, according to Humboldt,
either the descendants of the former labourers, or are remains of
noble Indian famihes, who, disdaining to intermarry with their
Spanish conquerors, preferred themselves to till the ground which
theh vassals formerly cultivated for them. It is said_ that these
Indians of noble race, though to the vulgar eye undistinguishable
from their fehows, are held in great respect by their inferior country
men. In Cholula, particularly, there are still caciques with long
Indian names; also in Tlascala — and though barefoot and ragged,
they are said to possess great hidden wealth. But it is neither in or
near the capital that we can see the Indians to perfection in their
original state. It is only by travelhng through the provinces that
we can accomplish this; and should the lateness of the season
obhge us to remain here any time after another minister arrives, we
may probably take a longer journey in some different direction from
tierra caliente, where we may see some tribes of the indigenous
Mexicans. Certainly no visible improvement has taken place in
their condition since the Independence. They are quite as poor and
quite as ignorant and quite, as degraded as they were in 1808, and

300 SHOOTING PARTY.
if they do raise a httle grain of their own, they are so hardly taxed
that the privilege is as nought.
2nd May. — We returned from Mexico this morning, having gone
in to attend the ball given at the French Minister's, on the day of
Louis Phihppe. It was very pretty, and we staid tih it was very
late. We met with such a cordial reception from ah our friends,
whom we have not seen for a month, that we are tempted to beheve
ourselves as much missed in Mexico as they say we are. The
Sefiora L  and the E  s were amongst the best, dressed
Mexican ladies last night; the latter in white crape and diamonds,
and the other in black blonde over rose colour, also with diamonds.
The Sefiora A  , who went with us, looked very pretty in a
white blonde dress, with a small black velvet turban rohed round
with large diamonds and pearls. There were a great number of
smah crimson velvet turbans, and an amazing number of black blonde
dresses. There were certainly some very pretty women. The corps
diplomatique went in uniform.
7th. — Abecilla, a favourite Spanish actor, died a few days ago,
and, as C  n took several boxes on the night of a play given for
the benefit of his widow, we went in to the theatre on Saturday
last. We are now looking out for another house in Mexico, for
when the rainy season begins, we shall find this too far from the
city for C  n, who is obhged to be there constantly.
We ventured to take a walk alone yesterday morning through
the lanes, down to San Angel and Coyohuacan, for which piece of
imprudence we were severely reprehended, and to-day it appears
that two women had been robbed and ill-treated on the road, near
here; so we are too ready to subscribe to the renewal of our sen
tence of imprisonment in the house and orchard, when we have no
gentlemen with us ; but it must be confessed, that it takes greatly
from the charms of a country hfe, not to be able to walk out
fearlessly. . . .
The quietness and stillness of this place is incredible. There is
actually not a sound in the ah; not a sight but a ragged Indian.
The garden is in great beauty. The apricots are ripe and abundant.
The roses are in full blow; and there is a large pomegranate tree at
the gate of the orchard, which is one mass of ponceau blossom. It
is much warmer in the middle of the day this summer than it was
last. We spent a pleasant day lately at a great hacienda a few leagues
from this, belonging to a Spanish millionaire, on occasion of a
shooting party. _ We went there to breakfast, and afterwards set off
on horseback, sitting sideways on men's saddles, to see the sport. It
would have been very agreeable but for the heat. The sportsmen
were not very successful, — saw a flight of rose-coloured flamingoeSt
who sailed high over their heads, unhurt; killed some very hand
some birds cahed trigueros, with beautiful yellow plumage, and some
ducks. The trigueros are considered a dehcacy. We rode with

ROBBERY. 301
the administrador ah round the estate, which is very productive and
profitable. He told us that they sell in Mexico, annually, fifteen
thousand dohars' worth of corn, and ten thousand dohars' worth of
milk, sending in this produce in canoes, by the canal which passes
this way. _ We dismounted from our horses in a green meadow
covered with daisies and buttercups, which, from association, I pre
fer to the tuberoses and pomegranate blossom, which now adorn the
gardens. The Sefior.  gave us an excellent dinner a VEspagnole;
after which I made an attempt to fire at some birds which shook
theh tails, and flew away in the most contemptuous manner. . . .
The new Secretary of Legation, Sefior T  , and the new
attach^, Sefior G  , have just arrived in Mexico.
10th. — The Baron and Madame de  , with their secretary, the
Count de B  , came out yesterday morning unexpectedly to break
fast, and spent the day with us.
13th. — We went out with C  n last evening, to take a walk;
when a man rushed by us in a state of great agitation, and on going
further we met some workmen, who told us that an Indian labourer
had stabbed a man in the next field, and that he had died before a
padre could be procured. We heard the cries of his wife and children,
and A  , crossing the ditch that bordered the field, went to see
the man. He was a master- workman, or director, and had found
fault with one of the men for his idleness. High words ensued,, and
the labourer (probably the man who had passed us) drew his knife
and stabbed him. He was lying stone dead, with his hand half cut
through in his efforts to defend himself. A  asked an adminis
trador, who was standing near, what would be done to the guilty
man. " Probably nothing," said he, shrugging his shoulders ; " we
have no judges to punish crime." This rencontre, as you may beheve,
took away from us all inchnation to pursue our rambles.
There is a pretty farmhouse in the vihage, in which we took
shelter the other day from a shower of rain. The farmers are civil
and respectful, a superior kind of people, with good manners rather
above their station. The daughters are good looking, and the house
clean and neat. One of the girls gave me an account of a nocturnal
visit which the robbers paid them last winter. She showed me the
httle room where she was alone and asleep, when her mother and
sister, who slept in the chamber adjoining, being wakened by the
breaking in of their door, sprang out of the window to make their
escape, and she was left in the house alone. She jumped out of bed
and bolted the door (her room had no other egress), and there she
held a parley with these night visiters, promising to unlock every
drawer and closet, if they would wait till she put on her clothes, and
would do her no personal injury. The agreement was made, and
they kept their word. They cleared the house of every article it
contained, leaving nothing but the blanket in which the girl had
wrapped herself. Ah theh clothes, household utensils, money, every
thing was carried off with astonishing precision; and having made

302 DISCOMFITURE.
her swear not to move till they had time to leave the village, they
paid her no further attention. The other women, who had given
the alarm, found no one inclined to moA'e in the middle of the night
against a party whose numbers their fears had probably magnified.
The administrador gave us an amusing account this evening of a
visit which a band of no less than thirty robbers once ventured to
pay this strong and well defended hacienda. He was hving there
alone, that is, Avithout the family, and had just barred and bolted
every thing for the night, but had not yet locked the outer gate,
when looking out from his window' into the courtyard by moonlight,
he saw a band of robbers ride up to the door. He instantly took
his measures, and seizing the great keys, ran up the httle stair that
leads to the azotea, locking the gate by which he passed, and, calling
to the captain by name (for the robbers were headed by a noted
chieftain), requested to know Avhat he wanted at that hour of the
night. The captain pohtely begged him to come down stairs and
he would tell him ; but the agent, strong in the possession of his great
keys, and weh knoAving the solidity of the iron-barred windows,
continued his parley in a high tone. The captain rode round, ex
amined every thing Avith a practised eye, and found that it would re
quire a regular siege to make good his entry. He threatened, en
treated, observed that he would be content with a smah sum of money,
but ah in vain. There stood the sturdy administrador on the house
top, and there sat the captain on his horse below, something hke the
fox and the crow ; but the agent Avith the keys was wiser than the
crow and her cheese, for no cajohng would induce him to let them
out of his grasp ; and worse than ah, shooting him would have done
them no good. At last the captain, finding himself entirely out
witted, took off his hat, politely wished the agent a very good night,
drew off his men and departed.
Another time, being also alone, he was attacked in broad day
light by two men who came under pretence of buying pulque ; but
haAdng time to get hold of a SAvord, he overpowered one, which
frightened the other, upon which they both began to laugh, and
assured him it was mere experiment to see what he would do — a
perfect jest, which he pretended to beheve, but advised them not to
try it again, as it was too good a joke to be repeated. Sefior 
pointed out to us the other day a well-known robber captain, who
was riding on the high road with a friend. He had the worst-look
ing, most vulgar and most vihanous face I ever saw ; a low-hved and
most unpoetic-looking ruffian ; fat and sallow.
We saw a horribly ugly man to-day, and were told he was a lobo,
the name given here to the Zambos ; who are the most frightful
human beings that can be seen. La Guera Rodriguez told us that
on an estate of hers, one woman of that race was in the habit of at
tending church, and that she Avas so fearfully hideous, the priest had
been obhged to desire her to remain at home, because she distracted
the attention of the congregation !

COUNTRY LIFE. 303
We spent yesterday at the house of the  minister at San Angel,
where he gave us and the  minister and his family a beautiful
breakfast. How consistent every thing looks in a good Enghsh
house ! so handsome without being gaudy — the plate so well cleaned,
the servants so well trained.
8th June. — We were sitting under an apple tree the other day,
trying to tame the fiercest little deer I ever saw, Avho was butting
and kicking Avith all his might, when a large packet of letters was
brought us, the reading of which insured us an agreeable afternoon.
We continue tolead a very quiet hfe here, occasionally taking a short
ride in the evening, and making acquaintance with the neighbouring
villages, the prettiest of which is Tesapan, a most rural and leafy spot,
where there are fine fruit trees, plenty of water, and good-looking
peasant-girls. Sometimes we go to San Antonio to see the V  o
family ; occasionally to San Agustin, where they are preparing for
the great fete. We are in treaty for a house in Mexico, having now
given up all idea of passing through Vera Cruz this summer. We
are in hopes of having that of the late Marquesa de San Roman, who
died some time ago, but the delays that take place in any transaction
connected with a house in Mexico, and the difficulty of obtaining a
. decisive answer, are hard trials of patience.
We generally have a number of visiters from Mexico on Sunday,
and those who come in carriages may be considered as real friends,
for they decidedly risk their necks, not to mention their carriage-
springs at a bad bit on the road, which the owners, who are Indians,
will not allow any one to mend for them, and will not mend them
selves. When we reach it, we are obhged regularly to get out of
the carriage, go about a hundred yards on foot, and then remain in
much anxiety at the top of the hill, till we see whether or not the
carriage arrives unbroken, which it rarely does. A few dohars would
make it perfectly safe.
Our chief visiters during the week are from the Carmelite convent
of San Angel. The old padre guardian is about eighty. Each
convent has a prior, but the padre guardian exercises authority over
all the convents of his order as well as over his own.
There are many excellent houses and fine gardens in San Angel,
and a number of families from Mexico are now there for the season.
Tacubaya and all the environs are beginning to be occupied, and
Mexico looks warm and deserted. But there are so few incidents in
our quiet fife among the maguey s, that I shall write no more till we
return from San Agustin after the fete. If you wish to hear how we
pass our time, you must know that we generally rise about six, and
go out into the orchard and stroll about, or sit down with a book in
a pleasant arbour at the end of one of the walks, Avhich is surrounded
by rose-bushes, and has a little stream of Avater running past it.
Nor do we ever enter the orchard unarmed Avith a long pole, for its
entrance is guarded by a flock of angry geese, hissing like the many-
headed Hydra that watched over the golden apples of the Hespe-

304 COUNTRY LIFE.
rides. At eight we breakfast, and by nine the sun is aheady power
ful enough to prevent us from leaving the house. We therefore sit
down to read or write, and do occasionahy take a game at billiards.
C  n generahy rides to Mexico, but if not, goes up to the azotea
with a book, or writes in his study until four o'clock, when we dine.
After dinner we walk into the village, if we have any attendant
esquire ; if not, we go to the azotea and see the sun set behind the
volcanoes, or walk in the garden tih it is dark, and then sit down in
the front of the house, and look at the hghts in Mexico. Then we
have tea or chocolate — :and the candles are hghted — and the last
Indian workman has gone off to his vihage — and the house is barred
in, and we sit down to read, or write or talk, or sometimes we play
billiards by lamp-hght. And then indeed the silence and the sohtude
make us feel as if the world were completely shut out. I never
experienced such perfect stillness. Even the barking of a dog sounds
hke an event. Therefore, expect no amusing letters from this place;
for though we are very comfortable, there are no incidents to relate.
The Indians come in the morning to drink pulque, (which, by the
way, I now think excehent, and shah find it very difficult to live
without !) a httle child from the vihage brings us some bouquets of
flowers, which the Indians have a pretty way of arranging in a pine
apple or pyramidal form ; the Chinese cook, with his httle slits of
eyes, passes by with meat and fruit which he has been buying at the
market of San Angel; the prior saunters in to see how we are — a
chance visiter comes on horseback from Mexico, with a long sword
by his side, as if he were going to fight the Saracens. And excepting
that a padre came last Sunday and said mass to us in the pretty httle
chapel of the hacienda, which saved us the trouble of going dovm
to the vihage, and, moreover, took chocolate with us afterwards,
there has been nothing to vary the usual routine of our country life.

305

LETTER THE FORTY-FIRST.
Gambling — Fete at San Agustin — Breakfast at San Antonio — Report — Cock
Fight — Ladies — Private Gambling — A Vaca — The Calvario — Bonnets — Din
ner — Evening Ball — Mingling of Classes — Copper Tables — Dresses and De
corations — Indian Bankers, Male and Female — Decorum — Habit — Holders
of Banks — Female Gambler — Robbery — Anecdote — Bet — Casa de Moneda —
Leave San Angel — Celebration — Address — Cross and Diploma — Reply —
Presentation of a Sword— Discourses and Addresses — Reflections. 10th June.
One year since I last wrote of San Agustin ! An entire year has
fled swiftly away on rushing pinions, to add its unit to the rolling
century. And again, on a bright morning in June, we set off for
the hospitable San Antonio, where we were invited to breakfast and
to pass the night on the second day of the fete. We found a very
brilliant party assembled; the family with ah its branches, the Ex-
Minister Cuevas, with his handsome sister-in-law, La Giiera Rodri
guez, with one of her beautiful grand-daughters (daughter of the
Marquis of G  e), now making her first appearance in Mexico,
and various other agreeable people. The first day of the fete, a
rumour was afloat that an attack was to be made on the banks by
the federal party ; that they expected to procure the sinews of war
to the extent of a million of dohars, and then intended to raise a
grito in Mexico, taking advantage of the temporary absence of the
president and his officers. The plan seemed rather feasible, and the
report, true or false, was current yesterday; but if there was any
truth in it, the discovery has been made in time, for nothing has
occurred. San Agustin appeared even gayer and more crowded
than it was last year. We spent the day at the E  s, and went
with them to a box in the plaza to see the cock-fight, which I had
no particular pleasure, I must confess, in witnessing again, but Avent
for the sake of those who had not seen it before. _ The general coup
d'ail was exceedingly gay, and the improvement in the dress of the
ladies since last year very striking. There were neither diamonds
nor pearls amongst the most fashionable. The bonnets were chiefly
Parisian, as were many of the gowns. One box looked a veritable
parterre of flowers. The ladies'of our party wore dresses and bonnets
as simple, fresh, and elegant as could be seen in any part of the
world. A young and titled "heiress, newly arrived from her dis
tant estates, wore pink satin with a white hat and feathers, and we
observed, that according to the ancient San Agustin fashion, she
changed her dress four or five times a-day. But the ladies may

306 MINGLING OF CLASSES.
dress, and may smile, and may look their very best; they are httle
thought of this day, in comparison with the one all-powerful, all-
pervading object. It is even Avhispered that one cause of the more
than usual crowd at San Agustin this year, is that many failures are
expected in mercantile houses, and that the heads of these houses or
their agents are here on the desperate hope of retrieving their
falhng fortunes.
A good deal of play on a small scale goes on in the private houses,
among those who do not take much part in the regular gambling;
but all are interested more or less ; even strangers, even ladies, even
ourselves. Occasional news is brought in, and received with deep
interest, of the state of the banks, of the losses or gains of the dif
ferent individuals, or of the result of the vacas, (a sort of general
purse, into which each puts two or three ounces,) by different strag
glers from the gambling-houses, who have themselves only ventured
a few ounces, and who prefer the society of the ladies to that of the
Monte players. These are generally foreigners, and chiefly Enghsh.
We found the road to the Calvario, where, as usual, there was a
bah in the afternoon, blocked up with carriages, and the hih itself
covered with gay figures ; who were dancing as well as the tremen
dous crowd would permit. Tlfis was really tolerably republican.
The women generally Avere dressed as the better classes of Mexicans
used to be, years ago, and not so many years neither (and as many
in the country, still are) in blonde dresses, with very short petticoats,
open silk stockings and white satin shoes ; and such a collection of
queer bonnets has probably never been seen since the days when
les Anglaises pour rire first set foot on Gallic shores. Some were
hke smah steeples, others resembled helmets, some were like sugar-
loaves, and most seemed to have been set on, for convenience-sake,
all the way out. Amidst these there was a good sprinkhng of pretty
Herbaults and Paris dresses, but they belonged to the more fashion
able classes. The scene was amusing from its variety, but Ave did
not remain long, as it threatened rain. As we looked back, the
crowd on the hill presented the appearance of a bed of butterflies
dancing with black ants.
We returned to the  's to dinner, which was very handsome,
and entirely French. There were about twenty-eight persons at
table, some of them looked as if they had rather lost than otherwise.
After dinner— music, and conversation on the events and probabili
ties of the day, till it was time to dress for the ball at the plaza. We,
however, preferred going to a box, which saves the trouble of dress
ing, besides being " de mucho tono," very fashionable; but when we
arrived, not a box was to be had, the crowd was so great, and there
Avere so many people of tono, besides ourselves, who had preferred
doing the same thing; so we were obhged to content ourselves with
retreating to a .third roAV of benches on the floor, after persuading at
least a dozen of very goodnatured women to turn out, in order to
let us in. We were afterwards joined by the  Minister and his

MINGLING OF CLASSES. 307
wife. The ball looked very gay, and was prodigiously crowded, and
exceedingly amusing.
There were people of all classes; modistes and carpenters, shop-
boys, tailors, hatters, and hosiers, mingled with all the haut ton of
Mexico. Every shop-boy considered himself entitled to dance with
every lady, and no lady considered herself as having a right to refuse
him, and then to dance with another person. The Scnora de  ,
a most high-bred and dignified person, danced Avith a stable-boy in
a jacket and without gloves, and he appeared particularly gratified
at the extraordinary opportunity thus afforded him of holding her
white gloves in his brown paws. These fellows naturally select the
first ladies as their partners, and, strange as it may seem, there is
nothing in their behaviour that the most fastidious can complain of.
They are perfectly pohte, quiet and weh conducted ; and what is
more remarkable, go through a quadrille as well as their neighbours.
The ball was quietness itself, until near the end, when the wind-
instruments were suddenly seized with a fit of economy, the time
they were paid for having probably expired, and stopped short in
the midst of a waltz ; upon which the gentleman waltzers shouted
" Viento! Viento!" at the full extent of their voices, clapping their
hands, refusing to dance, and entirely drowning the sound of some
httle jinghng guitars which were patiently twanging on, until the
hired sons of -Solus had to resume their labours.
There were some pretty faces among the secondary class of smah
shopkeepers, but their beauty is not striking, and takes a long
time to discover ; especially fagotees as they are in their overloaded
dresses. Amongst the handsomest of the higher classes, were the
Sefiora C  s, and a daughter of the Marquis of G  e.
On the third night of the fete, C  n and I having left the ball
room about ten o'clock, walked out in the direction of the copper-
tables which filled the middle of the square, and were covered with
awnings. It is a sight that, once seen, can never be forgotten. No
thing but the pencil of Hogarth, or the pen of Boz, could do justice
to the various groups there assembled. It was a gambhng fete-
\ champitre, conducted on the most liberal scale.
On each table were great mountains of copper, with an occasional
sprinkhng of silver. There was a profusion of evergreens, small
tin lamps dripping with oil, and sloping tahow candles shedding
grease upon the board. Little ragged boys, acting as waiters, were
busily engaged in handing round pulque and chia in cracked tum
blers. There was, moreover, an . agreeable tinkling produced from
several guitars, and even the bankers condescended to amuse their
guests with soothing strains. The general dress of the company con
sisted of a single blanket, gracefully disposed in folds about the per
son; so as to show various ghmpses of a bronze skin. To this some
added a pair of Mexican pantaloons, and some a shirt of a doubtful
colour. There were many with large hats, most of which had, crowns
or parts of crowns, but ah affording free entrance to the fresh air.
Y

308 GAMBLERS.
Generally speaking, however, the head was uncovered, or covered
only with its native thatching of long, bushy, tangled black hair.
This might be out of compliment to the ladies, of whom there
were several, and who ought in pohteness to have been mentioned
first. Nothing could be simpler than their costume, consisting of a
very dirty and extremely torn chemise, with short sleeves, a shorter
petticoat, and a pair of shoes, generahy of dirty satin: also a reboso,
and the long hair hanging down as Eve's golden locks may have
done in Paradise. " They cah this place a Paradise,'' a Spanish
soldier wrote to his father ; " and so I think it is, it is so full of
Adams!'
There was neither fighting, nor swearing, nor high ^ words. I
doubt whether there be as much decorum at Crockford's; indeed,
they were scrupulously pohte to each other. At one table, the
banker was an enormously fat gentleman, one-half of whose head
was bound up with a dirty white handkerchief, over which a torn
piece of hat was stuck, very much to one side. He had a most
roguish eye, and a smile of inviting benignitv on his dirty counte
nance. In one hand he held and tingled a guitar, while he most in
geniously swept in the copper with the other. By his side sat two
wretched-looking women, with long matted hair; theh elbows on the
table, and their great eyes fixed upon the game with an expression
of the most intense anxiety. At another, the banker was a pretty little
Indian woman, rather clean, comparatively speaking, and who appeared
to be doing business smartly. A man stood near her, leaning against
one of the poles that supported the awning, who attracted ah our
attention. He was enveloped in atom blanket, his head uncovered,
and his feet bare ; and was glaring upon the table with his great,
dark, haggard-looking eyes, his brown face livid, and his expression
bordering on despair. It needed no one to teh us that on the table
was his last stake. What will such a man do but go upon the road?
I have heard it mentioned, as a strong circumstance in favour of
the Mexican character, that there is neither noise nor disturbance in
these reunions ; none of that uproar and Adolence that there would
be in an Enghsh mob, for example. The fact is certain, but the
inference is doubtful. These people are degraded, and accustomed
to endure. They are gentle and cunning, and their passions are not
easily roused, at least to open display; but once awakened, it is
neither to uproar that these passions wih be excited, nor by fair
fight that they wih be assuaged. In England, a boxing-match de
cides a dispute amongst the lower orders ; in Mexico, a knife ; and
a broken head is easier mended than a cut throat. Despair must
find vent in some way; and secret murder, or midnight robbery, are
the fatal consequences of this very calmness of countenance, which
is but a mask of Nature's own giving to her Indian offspring.
Another reason for this tranquilhty is the habit of gambling, in
which they have indulged from childhood, and which has taught
them that neither high words nor violence wih restore a single dohar

BANKERS. ' 309
once fairly lost; and in point of fairness, every thing is carried on
with the strictest honour, as among gamblers of high degree.
While " high hfe below stairs" is thus enacting, and these people
are courting fortune in the fresh air, the gentlemanly gamblers are
seated before the green cloth-covered tables, with the gravity befit
ting so many cabinet councils ; but without their mystery, for doors
and windows are thrown open, and both ladies and gentlemen may
pass in and out, and look on at the game, if they please. The heaps
of ounces look temptingly, and make it appear a true El Dorado.
Nor is there any lack of creature-comforts to refresh the flagging
spirits. There are supper-spread tables, covered with savory meats
to appease their hunger, and with generous wines to gladden their
hearts ; and the gentlemen who surrounded that board seemed to be
playing, instead of Monte, an excellent knife and fork.
You must not suppose that those who hold gambling-tables are
the less considered on that account; on the contrary, as the banks
generahy win, they are amongst the richest, and, consequently, the
most respected men in Mexico. These bankers are frequently Spa
niards, who have found gambhng the readiest stepping-stone to for
tune.. Sefior  explained to me one plan of those who hold the
banks, a sort of hedging, by which it is next to impossible that they
can lose. For example, one of these gentlemen proposes to his
friends to take a share in a vaca, each contributing a few ounces.
Having collected several hundred ounces, they go to play at his bank.
If they win, he receives his share, of course ; and if they lose, his
bank wins the whole. It is proceeding upon the principle of
" Heads I win, tails you lose."
At the tables, few words are spoken. The heaps of gold change
masters ; but the masters do not change countenance. I saw 'but
one person who looked a httle out of humour, and he was a foreigner.
The rich man adds to his store, and the poor man becomes a beggar.
He is ruined, but " makes no sign."
The ladies who have collected ounces and made purses, send their
friends and admirers to the tables to try their luck for them; and
in some of the inferior houses, the Sefioras of a lower class occa
sionahy try their fortune for themselves. I saw one of these, who
had probably lost, by no means " taking it coolly." She looked
like an overcharged thundercloud; but whether she broke forth in
. anger or in tears, thunder or rain, we did not stay to see.
In short, it is an ah-pervading mania, and as man is " a bundle of
habits," the most moral persons in this country (always excepting
one or two ladies who express their opinions strongly against it) see
nothing in it to condemn, and are surprised at the effect it produces
on a stranger; and, indeed, after a few years' residence here, a fo
reigner almost becomes reconciled to these abuses, by the veil of
decorum with which they are covered.
We returned to San Antonio in the brightest possible moonhght,
and in perfect safety, it being on the high-road to Mexico, and

310 ANECDOTE.
therefore guarded by soldiers. We heard the next morning, that a
nephew of General B  s, who had ventured upon going by a
cross-road to his house, at Mizcuaque, has been attacked and robbed
of his winnings, besides being severely wounded. This being the
natural consequence, the morale to the story can excite no surprise.
The robbers who, in hopes of plunder, flock down at the time of the
fete, hke sopilotes seeking carrion, hide themselves among the barren
rocks of the Pedregal, and render ah cross-roads insecure, except with
a very strong escort.
An anecdote was related to us this morning, by a member of the
cabinet, a striking, one amongst the innumerable instances of For
tune's caprices. A very rich Spaniard, proprietor of several haci
endas, attended the fete at San Agustin, and having won three
thousand ounces, ordered the money to be carried in sacks to his
carriage, and prepared to return to Mexico along vrith his wife. His
carriage was just setting off, when a friend of his came out of an ad
joining house, and requested him to stay to breakfast, to which he
agreed. After breakfast, there being a monte table in the house, at
which some of his acquaintances were playing, he put down two
ounces, and lost. He continued playing and losing, unth he had lost
his three thousand ounces, which were sent for and transferred to the
winners. He still continued playing with a terrible infatuation, till
he had lost his whole fortune. He went on blindly, staking one
hacienda after another, and property of ah sorts, until the sun,
which had risen upon him a rich and prosperous man, set, leaving
him a beggar ! It is said that he bore this extraordinary and sudden
reverse with the utmost equanimity. He left a son, whom we have
seen at San Agustin, where he earns his livelihood as croupier at the
gambhng tables.
29th.— No particular occurrence has taken place since the fete ; a
visit from the new Secretary of Legation and the Attache, a diplo
matic dinner at the  minister's, much going and coming and
writing on the subject of a house in Mexico, a correspondence con
cerning the sale of our furniture, mules, &c. &e, a good deal of
interest excited by a bet between two Enghsh gentlemen, as to whe
ther it were possible for one of them to ride from Mexico to San
Angel in twenty .minutes, which feat he performed, starting from the
gate called _" El Nino Per dido," and reaching the old church of San
Angel within the given time ; these I think are the most remarkable
circumstances that have taken place. We arc now in treaty for the
furnished apartments of the director of the Casa de Moneda (the
mint), a great building next_ the palace, from which upwards of one
thousand three hundred millions of coined gold and silver have issued
since the beginning of the sixteenth century. The house is a palace
in extent and sohdity; and the residence of the director is very spa
cious and handsome, besides having the great advantage of being
furnished. We expect to return to Mexico in a few days.

CROSS AND DIPLOMA. 311
Casa de Moneda, 6th July.
Here we are, re-established in Mexico, for a short time at least,
and not without difficulty has it been accomphshed. We left the
country with some regret, as this is the pleasantest time of the year
for being there, and every thing was looking green and beautiful. We
came in, ourselves, in a loaded carriage, and in advance, fourteen
asses loaded with boxes, four Indians with ditto, and two enormous
loaded carts, one drawn by four, and another by eight mules. We
were a regular caravan, as our friend the alcalde called us. Imagine
the days of packing and unpacking consequent thereupon ! . . .
On the 1st of July, the victory gained by the government over
the federalist party was celebrated with great eclat. The president
was presented with a diamond cross, valued at six thousand dollars,
and General Valencia with a splendid jewel-hilted sword of great
value. " Yesterday morning," says the newspaper of the day, " a
general pealing of the bells and the usual salutes announced to the
capital that it was a day of rewards and of universal joy. At twelve
o'clock, his Excellency the President of the Republic went to the
palace, to fulfil the formality of closing the sessions, and to receive
from the hands of the President of the Chamber of Deputies, the
diploma and cross of honour mentioned in the decrees of the second of
March and second of May of this year. An immense multitude
occupied the galleries; and the President, Don J. Maria Bravo,
addressed his Excellency General Bustamante, in the following
speech :
¦ " Citizen General, and illustrious President: — Nations neArer forget
the distinguished services that are done to them, nor fail to reward
those heroic actions performed for the common good. Sooner or
later they show themselves grateful, and reward as they ought their
good and vahant servants. The Mexican nation has not forgotten
yours, and its congress has ever borne in mind those which you per
formed for it at that happy period when the unfortunate hero of
Iguala, causing the voice of freedom to resound to the remotest lands
of the Mexican territory, gave a terrible lesson to those Avho wish to
subdue weak nations, Avith no other title than that of strength. You
were one of the first and most valiant chiefs, who, placed by his side,
assisted in this important and happy work ; you it Avas Avho shewed
to the tyrant in the fields of Juchi, Aztcapozalco and others, that the
sword of the Mexicans once unsheathed for hberty and justice, fights
without softening or breaking; and knows hoAv to triumph over its
enemies, even when superior forces oppose it ; you it was, in short,
who with intrepid valour co-operatedin re-establishing a liberty, which
torn from the ancient children of the soil, was converted by their
oppressors into a hard and shameful tyranny. History has already
consecrated her pages to you; she will record to posterity your heroic
deeds, and congress has aheady busied itself in reAvarding such

interesting services.

If some Mexicans, erring in their opinions, by a fatahty in tins

312 PRESIDENT'S reply.
country, have disowned them, making an attempt against your per
sonal hberty, notwithstanding the dignity of the first magistrate ;
trampling upon laws and overturning order ; they have at length
been obhged to respect you; and your valour, firmness, and decision,
have made them preserve the consideration due to an ancient chief
of our independence, and to a first magistrate who has known how to
set an example of subordination to the laws, and to give with dignity
lessons of valour and of honourable conduct.
" A diploma and a cross are the rewards wlfich the sovereign
congress has decreed for these services and merits. Do not regard
in the one the effaceable characters in wlfich it is written, nor be
dazzled by the brilhancy of the other. See in both a proof of your
country's gratitude, and engraving it in your soul, continue to give
testimonies to your country that she is the first object of your care ;
thatyomwatchmgs, fatigues, andlabours are dedicated only to procure
for her those benefits which may bring about the durable and sohd
peace that she so much desires, and for which you would, if necessary,
sacrifice yourself on her altars.
" Do not forget that to-day she shews herself grateful, and that this
is the day decreed by the august national representative body, to put
you in possession of the title and insignia which manifest her gratitude.
I, in the name of the congress, congratulate you on this fortunate
event, and having the honour to fulfil the desire of the sovereign
power, place in your hands this diploma of deserving reward from
your country, and give you possession of this cross."
His Excehency having received the diploma and cross above men
tioned, with his native modesty rephed thus :
" In hearing, by the organ of the august national representation,
the great encomiums with which it favours me, putting me at. the
same time in possession of these precious gifts, my soul overflows with
ineffable pleasure, and is overwhelmed vrith the deepest gratitude.
My satisfaction and my glory are immense. What could I have
done, that thus the generous hand of the representatives of the
Mexican people should load me with honours? Have my trifling ser
vices been able to fix the attention of the country, on whose altars
have been sacrificed so many and such ihustrious heroes of hberty?
My glory would have been yet greater, had I, hke them, descended
to the sepulchre, when the sun of victory brightened the existence
of this sovereign and independent nation, to the glory of the universe.
" The honours which I receive to-day are certainly great; but I
should have preferred them before the never-sufficiently mourned
catastrophe of the immortal Yturbide. Let us throw a thick veil
over so irreparable a loss. It is true that, surviving such great mis
fortunes, I have been enabled to consecrate my existence and my
vigilance to the peace, order, and fehcity of tlfis beloved country.
But how difficult is the conduct of those who govern in the midst
of the conflict of civil_ dissensions ! In these, my conscience has
chosen, and my resolution has never vacillated between ignominy

THE SWORD. 313
and honour. Do I, on this account, deserve the national gratitude
and munificence manifested by such distinguished rewards? I re
turn for them to the representatives of the nation my frankest grati
tude; fixing my mind only on the grandeur and benevolence of the
sovereign power which rewards me in the sacred name of the
country. I shah preserve till death these precious objects wlfich
render my name illustrious as a soldier and as a supreme magistrate.
They wih stimulate me more and more every day to ah' kinds of
sacrifices, even to the giving up my hfe should it be necessary; that
I may not be unworthy of the favourable conception and of the
recompence with which the worthy representatives of so magnani
mous a nation have to-day honoured me. Receive, gentlemen, this
frank manifestation of my sentiments, and of my fervent vows for
the fehcity of the republic, with the most sincere protestations of
my eternal gratitude."
" The liveliest emotions of satisfaction" (I still quote from the
Diario) " fohowed this expressive discourse. Joy was painted on
every countenance. The frank satisfaction which every one felt
gave to this act a solemnity which words are incapable of describing.
His Excehency, accompanied by the corporations and by a brilliant
and numerous concourse, then passed to the hall of the court-martial,
to put in possession of his Excehency General D. Gabriel Valencia
the sword of honour which the august national representation had
granted him, for his loyal and valiant conduct in the affair of July
of 1840. His Excellency the President began this ceremony by
expressing his sentiments to his Excellency the Gefe] de la plana
mayor (head of the staff), in these terms :
" Citizen General: — In this day, the most flattering of my hfe, in
which the august representatives of the nation have just put me in
possession of the rewards granted to my small services, I fulfil the
law which imposes upon me the grateful task of presenting you with
the sword of honour, with which theh munificence has also chosen
to remunerate yours.
" Receive it as the distinguished reward of your loyalty, and of
the valour with which you fought at that memorable period, from
the 15th to the 26th of July, defending with bravery the constitution
and supreme powers of the Repubhc. I congratulate myself with
you, not doubting that yon will always employ the edge of this steel
in defence of the honour, of the sacred rights, and of the laws of
this country. Yes, general, of this beloved country, to whom we
owe ah lands of sacrifices ; yes, of this beloved mother, who now
more than ever reclaims the fraternal union of ah her children, _ to
conquer the internal and external enemies who oppose her lehcity
and aggrandizement, let us pledge ourselves to correspond thankfully
to the generosity with which the representatives of the nati°n nave
rewarded us, and let us march united in the same path which honour
and duty traced out for us, in that day of honourable memory for

314 GENERAL VALENCIA.
the defenders of the laws. Eternal praise to the brave soldiers and
citizens who co-operated with us in the establishment of order !"
To which General Valencia replied: — " That a correspondent re
ward should follow an "heroic action, nothing more natural; but to
remunerate a service which does not go beyond the sphere of ordi
nary things, such as mine in the affair of the 15th to the 26th of
July of 1840, by such a noble distinction as the sword of honour
with which your Excehency has deigned to gird me, in the name of
the National Congress, of this the magnanimity of the sovereignty
is alone capable; and so it is that I remain annihilated by a present
worthy of the ages of the Roman Senate and Repubhc. What did
I do, your Excehency, in those days, that any one of my countrymen
would not have done better? Nothing, sir; so that, in receiving
this sword of honour, my confusion equals my doubt as to my place
in the gratitude of the congress which has given it to me, of your
Excellency who has deigned to present it to me, and of my worthy
countrymen who bestowed it that I might wear it.
" In this condition, your Excellency, of content and satisfaction,
I can say no more, but that I hope your Excellency will manifest to
congress my eternal gratitude ; that your Excellency Avill receive
my noble acknowledgments, and my companions the assurance that
every time I put it on I shall remember the names of ah and each of
them who accompanied me on the 15th of July of 1840, together
with the pleasure that to them I owe so great a mark of respect."
Amongst the congratulations given to the president, the fohow
ing " congratulation from Ms Excellency General Valencia to his
Excellency the President, on his receiving the decoration of the .
cross of honour from congress," is Arery remarkable. " God said,
the first day of the creation of the world, when it was in a state
of chaos, ' Let there be light, and there was light' And God saw
his work and pronounced it good ! With how much more reason
ought the garrison of Mexico to do so every day in which, by any
action, the 15th of July of 1840 is celebrated — in which, by their
strength and heroic valour, that passage of Genesis was politically
repeated in this capital. Society arose in chaos. Its president is
taken. Authorities no longer exist, and those who ought to save
them are converted into their oppressors. ' God said let there be
light, and there was light !' The honourable troops, reunited in the
citadel, in the midst of chaos, said, ' Let order be re-established —
let the supreme magistrate be set at hberty, and let things resume
their proper march.' Order was re-established, your Excehency was
set free, and ^ the pohtical body followed the regular path, without
which no society exists. So it is that those worthy troops who thus
said, thus undertook, and thus accomphshed, noAv also resemble the
Creator of the world (hoy tambien se asememejan al Criador del mundo)
in his content, when satisfied with his work.
" The cross which has been worthily placed on your Excellency's
breast this day, reflects in such a singular manner upon the hearts of

A BALL. 315
the valiant men of that period (reflecta de un modo tan singular sobre los
corazones de los valientes de aquella epoca), that their souls are expanded
in contemplating it, by the honour which results to them from it.
" May your Excellency be happy one and a thousand times, with
such a noble and worthy decoration. Let your Excellency receive
in it the sincere congratulations of the garrison of Mexico, Avhich
figures in each stone of this cross, like the stars in the firmament."
" This ceremony being concluded, the two rewarded generals pre
sented themselves on the principal balcony of the palace, in front of
which passed the brilliant column of honour ; at its head marched
the commandant-general, Don Valentin Canalizo ; and the brilliancy,
neatness, and elegance, which all the corps of the garrison displayed,
is above all praise. When the regiment had passed, a sumptuous
entertainment was served in one of the halls of the Minister of War,
in which elegance, good taste, and propriety, rivalled one another ;
while repeated toasts showed the most sincere joy, united with the
most patriotic and fraternal sentiments. Rain having begun to fall
at about three in the afternoon, the paseo was on this account not so
crowded as might have been expected; nevertheless, the military
bands were present, and at six in the evening their Excellencies
Generals Bustamante and Valencia having presented themselves
there, were received with vivas and universal joy.
" At night the chiefs and officers of the plana mayor gave a ball
in the college of the Mineria ; and the theatre of New Mexico dedi
cated its entertainment to his Excellency the President. Nothing
disturbed the joy of this day; one sentiment alone of union and
cheerfulness overflowed in the capital, proving to those illustrious
generals the unanimous applause with which Mexicans see their
country reward the distinguished services of their children, Avho are
so deserving of their love and gratitude."
Notwithstanding the ineffable joy which, according to the Diario,
is generally felt on this occasion, there are many who doubt the
pohcy of this celebration, at a time when the troops are unpaid —
when the soldiers, wounded at the last pronunciamiento, axe refused
their pensions, while the widows and orphans of others are vainly
suing for assistance. " At the best," say those who cavil on the
subject, " it was a civil war — a war between brothers— a subject of
regret and not of glory — of sadness and not of jubilee." As for
General Valencia's congratulation to the president, in which he
compares the "honourable troops" to the Supreme Being, there-
establishment of order in Mexico to the creation of the world from
chaos, it is chiefly incomprehensible. Perhaps he is earned away
by his joy and gratitude, and personal affection for Bustamante-'-
perhaps he has taken a leaf from a translation of Bombastes Furioso.
One thing is certain: the whole affair had a brilliant appearance;
and the handsome carriages, fine horses, gaily-dressed officers and
soldiers, together with the military music and the crowds of people
collected, produced an imposing effect.

316

LETTER THE FORTY-SECOND.
Italian Opera— Artists, Male and Female — Prima Donna — Lucia de Lam
mermoor — Some Disappointment — Second Representation — Improvement-
Romeo and Giulietta— La Ricci— La Senora Cesari— The Mint— False
Coining — Repetition of Lucia — Procession by Night — A Spanish Beauty-
Discriminating Audience — A little Too Simple — Gold Embroidery — Santiago
— Pilgrims— Old Indian Custom — Soiree — Mexico by Moonlight — Myste
rious Figure — Archbishop — Viceroy. 13th July.
We httle expected to be stih here at the opening of the new Italian
opera, and'had consequently given up our box. Sefior Roca, who
went to Italy to bring out the requisites, has arrived at the end of a
wonderfully short period, with the singers, male and female, the
new dresses, decorations, &c. ; and the first opera, Lucia de Lam
mermoor, was given last week. The theatre is the former Teatro
des Gallos, an octagonal circus, which has been fitted up as elegantly
as circumstances would permit, and as the transition from the crow
ing of cocks to the soft notes of Giulietta rendered necessary. The
prima donna assoluta, is the Signora Anaide Castehan de Giam-
pietro, born in Paris, bred in Milan. The prima donna soprano is
the Signora de Ricci; and the second donna is cahed Branzanti.
The first tenor is Signor Giampietro, husband of the prima donna;
and the second tenor is the Signor Alberti Bozetti. The first bass
is Signor Tomassi, and the bouffo bass Signor Spontini. They have
been so much prone, and pubhc expectation has been so much
excited, that we supposed it probable that the first evening at least
would be a failure to a certain extent. Besides, the Mexican audi
ence, if not very experienced, is decidedly musical ; and they have
aheady had a pretty good opera here, have heard Madame Albini,
la Cesari, Garcia (the father of Mahbran), and the beaux restes of
Galli; therefore can compare.
The first evening, the Castellan made her appearance as Lucia.
She is about twenty; shght and fair, with black hair, graceful, and
with a very sweet, clear, and pure young voice, also very correct.
The tenor rests upon his Avife's laurels. He looks weh, but httle
more can be said in his praise. Tomassi has some good notes, and
a fine figure. Of the others who sang that evening there is httle to
be said. The theatre is extremely well got up, the dresses are new
and rich, and the decorations and scenery remarkably good. The
pubhc, however, were disappointed. They had prepared for won
ders, and were not satisfied with a fair performance. The applauses
were few and far between. The Castehan was not cahed for, and

THE MINT. 317
the fohowing day a certain degree of discontent pervaded the aristo
cracy of the capital.
At the second representation of the same opera things mended.
The voice of La Castellan was appreciated. Applauses were loud
and long, and at the end of the opera she and the director were
cahed for, and received with enthusiasm. She seems hkely to become
a favourite. Last evening we had Romeo and Giuhetta, in which La Ricci and
La Cesari made their appearance, the former as Giuhetta, the latter
as Romeo. The Ricci is a thin young woman, with a long, pale
face, black eyes and hair, long neck and arms, and large hands;
extremely pretty, it is said, off the stage, and very ineffective on it;
but both on and off with a very distinguished air. Her voice is
extensive, but wanting cultivation, and decidedly pea-hennish ; be
sides that, she is apt to go out of tune. Her style of dress was exces
sively unbecoming to her style of beauty. She wore a tight white
gown, a tight blue satin-peaked body, with long tight blue sleeves.
The public were indulgent, but it was evident that they were dis
appointed. La Cesari, highly married, and who for the last three years has
not appeared upon the stage, came out as Romeo, with tunic and
mantle, white silk stockings, hat and feathers, &c. She was very
much frightened and ill at ease, and it required all the applause with
which the pubhc greeted the entree of their former favourite to
restore her to self-possession. She looked remarkably well — tall,
handsome, beautifully formed, rather pale, with fine dark eyes,
dark hair, and moustaches. Her acting was greatly superior, as
much so as was her beauty, to any of the others. She has more
knowledge of the theatre, more science, taste, and energy, than any
of them; but her voice, a soft contralto, is out of use and feeble.
The theatre, besides, is ill-constructed for the voice, and must have
a bad effect upon the fulness and tone. On the whole, it_ seems
doubtful whether the opera wih endure long. Were we going to
remain here, I should trust that it might be supported, for, with all
its faults and drawbacks, it is decidedly the best public exhibition in
Mexico. The coup d'ceil was exceedingly pretty, as ah the boxes
were crowded, and the ladies were in full dress.
July 20th.— As we are hving in the mint, the directors have
cahed on us; and this morning they came to invite us to descend
into the lower regions, to see the silver coined. We went all over
this immense establishment, a fine picture of decayed magnificence,
built about one hundred and ten years ago by the Spaniards.
Dirty, ill-kept, the machinery rude, the workmen discontented; its
fine vaulted roofs, that look hke the interior of a cathedral, toge
ther with that grandiose style which distinguished the buildings oi
the Spaniards in Mexico, form a strong contrast with the occu-
PaWe saw the silver bars stretched out, the dohars cut and.

318 TOO SIMPLE.
whitened and stamped; and in one place we saw the machines
for coining false money, which have been collected in such numbers
that there is hardly room for them ! We saw the place where the
silver and gold is tested; and the room with the medals, amongst
which are some ancient Roman, Persian, and Enghsh, but especially
Spanish, and many of the time of Charles III.; when we were
looking at wlfich, an old gentleman exclaimed, " Would to Hea
ven those days would return !" without doubt the general feeling.
This old man had been forty-four years in the Casa de Mo-
neda, and had lived under several viceroys. He could remem
ber, when a boy, being sent with a commission to the Viceroy
Revillagigedo, and being very much frightened, but soon re-as
sured by the kind reception of the Representative of Majesty. He
spoke of the flourishing condition of the mint in those days, which
coined twenty-seven millions annually, and Avas a royal house. He
said that the viceroys used to praise them and to thank them for
their exertions; that the house was then kept in the most perfect
order, the principal officers wearing a uniform, &c.
Hereupon another old gentleman took up the theme, and im
proved upon it ; and told us, that, on one occasion, they had one
million three hundred thousand dollars' Avorth of gold in the house;
and described the visit of the vice-queen Yturriguary, who came
to see it, and sat down and looked round her in amazement at the
quantity of gold she saAv accumulated. This old gentleman had
been thirty years in the mint, and seemed as though he had never
been anyAvhcre else; as if he Avere part and parcel in it, and had
been coined, and beat out, and clipped there.
Hearing him, another fat man, rather unclipt-looking than other
wise, began to bewail the state of the times, till it was a chorus
universal, where all sang in one key. One had a very large, under-
hanging lip, with a kind of tragi-comic countenance, and was con
stantly making lugubrious puns. Another, who seemed bred to
the mint, (though by his account the mint Avas not bread to him,)
Avas insatiably curious, as a man born in a mint might be. We
passed about three hours in a mixture of admiration of the past
and sorrow for the present, and we were reconducted to our domi
cile by the poor employes, avIio seemed to think that a Spanish
minister was the next best to a Spanish viceroy, of any thing they
had seen for some time. " The Past is nothing ; and at last,
The Future will but he the Past,"
says Lord Byron. Here the Past is every tiling; and the Future? —
Answer it who can.
We were assured, Avhilc Avondering at the number of machines
for false coining which had been collected, that there are twice that
number now in full force in Mexico; but that they belong to such
distinguished personages, the government is afraid to interfere with
them. Besides this, there is now no sufficient punishment for this

PRIMA DONNA. 319
crime, a capital offence in the days of the Spanish government.
A lady here is said to have exclaimed Avith much simplicity on hear^
ing her husband accused of false coining, " I really wonder why they
make so much noise about it. It seems to me that my husband's
copper is as good as any other !"
24th. — We went last evening to the opera, which was a repeti
tion of Lucia, as it appears they cannot venture, in the face of pub
hc disapprobation, to repeat Romeo and Giulietta at present. As
we were passing through the square, the carriage suddenly drew
up, the coachman and footman uncovered their heads, and an im
mense procession came passing along the cathedral, with hghts and
mihtary music. There were officers in full uniform, with their
heads uncovered, a long file of monks and priests, and a carriage
carrying the host, surrounded by hundreds of people on foot, all
bearing hghted torches. A band of mihtary music accompanied
the procession, all which astonished us, as it was no fete day.
When, at length, being able to pass along, Ave arrived at the opera,
we were informed that they were carrying the viaticum to a rich
acquaintance of ours, a general, who has been indisposed for some
time, and whose illness has now exhibited fatal symptoms.
For him, then, these great cathedral bells are tolling heavily; for
him, the torches and the pompous procession — the sandalled monks,
and the officers in mihtary array; while two bands of music are
playing at his door and another in front of the cathedral, and in the
midst of these sounds of monkish hymn and military music, the
soul is preparing to wing its flight alone and unattended.
But the sweet notes of Lucia drown all other from our ears, if
not from our thoughts. In a house not many hundred yards off,
they minister the host to the dying man, while here, La Castellan,
with her pretty French graces and Itahan singing, is drawing
tears from our eyes for fictitious sorrows.
The theatre, was pretty well filled, though there Avere some
empty boxes, sights more hideous in the eyes of actors than tooth
less mouths. We sat with Madame la Baronne de  , and
nearly opposite was Madame  , related to the " Principe de
la Paz," a handsome woman, with a fine Bohemian cast of face,
dark in complexion, with glittering teeth, brihiant eyes, and dark
hah. La Castellan sang very well, Avith much clearness, pre
cision, and facihty. She is certainly graceful and pretty, but, ex
cept in her method, more French than Italian. Her style suits
Lucia, but I doubt her having Tair noble sufficient for a Norma or
a Semiramis. The bass improves upon acquaintance, but the hand
some tenor is nought. The audience seemed to me both indulgent
and discriminating. They applauded the pretty_ prima donna con
furor; they praised the bass when he deserved it, the tenor Avhen
it was possible; but where. he sang false, nothing could extort from
them a sohtary viva. This discrimination makes their applause
worth having, and proceeds less from experience or cultivation, than
from a musical instinct.

320 SANTIAGO.
In a visit we made this morning, we were shown a piece of em
broidery, which, from its splendour and good taste, is worthy of ob
servation, though by no means uncommon here. We went to cah
on the wife of a judge, Avho showed us ah through their beautiful
house, which looks out on the Alameda. In one of the rooms, then-
daughter was engaged on a piece, of embroidery for the altar of the
chapel. The ground was the very richest and thickest white satin ;
the design was a garland of vine-leaves, with bunches of grapes. The
vine-leaves were beautifully embroidered in fine gold, and the grapes
were composed of amethysts. I can conceive nothing richer and
more tasteful than the general effect. The gold embroidery done in
Mexico is generahy very beautiful, and there are many ladies who
embroider in great perfection. There is an amazing quantity of
it used in the churches, and in military uniforms. I have also seen
beautiful gold embroidered bah-dresses, but they are nearly out of
fashion  We hear that General  , though still ill, is
hkely to recover.
25th. — This being the day of Santiago, the patron saint of Spain,
C  n was invited by the padres of San Francisco to attend mass
in the church there. We were shown to the tribuna (gahery) of
the Countess de Santiago, where they gave us chahs, and put dovm
a piece of carpet. C  n and the rest of the legation were in the
body of the church, in velvet chairs, with hghted tapers in theh
hands. The saint was carried in procession, going out by the prin
cipal door, making the tour of the streets, and returning by a side door.
The music was pretty good, especiahy one soprano voice. Twelve
httle boys were placed on crimson velvet benches, on either side of
the altar, representing pilgrims of Gahcia (of which Santiago is the
capital), handsome httle fellows, belonging to respectable families,
dressed in robes of dark green or crimson, or violet coloured velvet,
with falhng lace cohars, and the neck ornamented with gold and
silver shells ; a large pilgrim's hat fastened on behind, and hanging
down, and in their hands staffs with gold behs. They were beautiful
children, and ah behaved with becoming gravity and decorum dur
ing the ceremony, walking with much dignity in the procession.
After the funcion, we went out to Santiago, an old church near
Mexico, where the Indians annually come in procession on this day,
and sell theh fruit, flowers, pulque, &c. Ah the waste ground near
the church was covered with green booths, and there was a great
crowd of carriages and _ horsemen, and people on foot. The troops
were drawn out, escorting the procession to the church. But though
the scene was curious, as the remnant of an old estabhshed ceremony,
and the Indians, with theh booths and flowers, and great show of
fruit,_ were ah very picturesque, the sun was so intense, that after
walking about a httle while, and buying tunas and nuts and peaches,
we returned home, together with the Guera Rodriguez, who was in
the carriage with us, and giving us a lively description of what this
fete used to be in former days. Had a visit the same morning from

ROMEO AND GIULIETTA. 321
the Sefiora M  , whom I think even handsomer by dayhght, than
she appeared to be at the opera ; not always the case with dark
beauties. 26th. — Another representation of Vaccaj's Romeo and Giuhetta,
with the second appearance of La Ricci. Music and Ricci seem
considered a failure. The Sefiora Cesari made the handsomest of
Romeos, as usual, but was ill, and out of spirits. The opera as a
whole was coldly received ; the boxes and pit were nearly empty,
and La Ricci seems unhkely to gain any favour with the pubhc,
though it must be confessed that she looked better, was more becom
ingly dressed, and both sang and acted better than the preceding
night. Yesterday we went to a soiree at the  Minister's. Ma
dame Castellan and her tenor were there, and had come from a
dinner given by a rich curate to the whole corps operatique, from the
prima donna down to the joueur dufagote, and even to the tailor
who makes the opera dresses, and his wife. This rich padre, it is
said, spends a great part of his fortune in entertaining actors and
singers. La Castehan (permission to that effect haAdng been ob
tained from the manager, for it is against their agreement to perform
in private houses) sang several airs to the piano, with much expres
sion, especiahy from Robert le Diable ; and Nina Pazza per Amore ;
but I prefer her voice in the theatre. She is not at all beautiful, but
has a charming face, with a very musical expression.
We returned home by moonhght, the most flattering medium
through which Mexico can be viewed ; with its broad and silent
streets, and splendid old buildings, whose decay and abandonment
are softened by the silvery hght ; its ancient churches, from which
the notes of the organ occasionahy come pealing forth, mingled with
faint blasts of music borne on the night wind from some distant pro
cession ; or with the soft music of a hymn from some neighbouring
convent. The white-robed monk — the veiled female — even the
ragged beggar, add to the picture ; by dayhght his rags are too vi
sible. Frequently, as the carriages roh along to the opera, or as, at
a late hour, they return from it, they are suddenly stopped by the
appearance of the mysterious coach, Avith its piebald mules, and the
Eye surrounded by rays of light on its panels ; a melancholy appari
tion, for it has come from the house of mourning, probably from the
bed of death. Then, by the moonhght, the kneeling figures on the
pavement seemed as if carved in stone. The city of Mexico by moon
hght— the environs of Mexico at daybreak— these are the hours for
viewing both to advantage, and for making us feel how
" All but the spirit of man is divine."
In front of our house, I should say of the Mint, is the arch
bishop's palace, and in front of this palace an object which has
greatly excited our curiosity. It is an old man, who, whether as a
•penance, or from some motive which we do not know, kneels, wrapt
in his serape, beside the wall of the Arzobispado from sunset tih

322 MUSICAL CLOCK.
midnight, or later — for we have frequently gone out at nine in the
evening, and left him kneehng there; and on our return at one in
the morning have found him in the same position. He asks no alms,
but kneels there silent and motionless, hour after hour, as if in the
performance of some vow 
We made a call this evening on the archbishop in his own
palace, an enormously large building ; a sort of street, hke this Casa
de Moneda. He received us very cordially, and looked very com
fortable without his robes of state, in a fine cloth dressing-gown,
lined with violet-coloured silk.
August 1st. — We had a visit last evening from one of the direc
tors of the mint, a curious and most original genius, a Mexican,
who has served nearly thirty years in that and other capacities, and
who, after speaking of the different viceroys he had seen, proceeded
to give us various anecdotes of the Viceroy Revillagigedo, the most
honoured for his justice, renowned for his energy, and feared for his
severity, of the whole dynasty. Our friend was moved to enthu
siasm by the sight of an old-fashioned but very handsome musical
clock, which stands on a table in the drawing-room, and which he
says was brought over by this viceroy, and was no doubt con
sidered a miracle of art in those days.
Some of the anecdotes he told us are already generally known
here, but his manner of telling them was very interesting, and he
added various particulars which we had not heard before. Besides,
the stories themselves seem to me so curious and characteristic, that
however much they lose by being tamely written instead of drama
tized as they are by him, I am tempted to give you one or two
specimens. But my letter is getting beyond ah ordinary limits,
and your curiosity will no doubt keep cool tih the arrival of another
packet.

! LETTER THE FORTY-THTRD.

Revillagigedo—The False Merchant and the Lady- The Viceroy, the Unjust
Spaniard, the Indian, and the Golden Ounces— Horrible Murder— Details-
Oath— Country Family— The Spot of Blood— The Mother unknowingly
denounces her Son— Arrest of the Three— Confession— Execution-The
Viceroy fulfils his Pledge— Paving of the Streets— Severity to the Monks-
Solitary Damsel— Box on the Ear— Pension— Morning Concert— New Mini
ster—" Street of the Sad Indian"— Traditions— A Farewell Audience— In
scription on a Tomb. August 3d.
A lady of fortune, owing to some combination of circum
stances, found herself in difficulties, and in immediate want of a

THE VICEROY 323
small sum of money. Don  being her compadre, and a re
spectable merchant, she went to him to state her necessities, and
offered him a case of valuable jewels as security for repayment, pro
vided he would advance her eight hundred dollars. He agreed,
and the bargain was concluded without any Avritten document, the
lady depositing her jewels and receiving the sum. At the end of a
few months, her temporary difficulties being ended, she went to her
compadre' s house to repay the money, and receive back her jewels.
The man readily received the money, but declared to his astonished
comadre, that as to the jewels, he had never heard of them, and that
no such transaction had taken place. The Sefiora, indignant at the
merchant's treachery, instantly repaired to the palace of the vice-
king, hoping for justice from this Western Solomon, though unable
to conceive how it could be obtained. She was instantly received
by Revillagigedo, -who listened attentively to her account of the
circumstances. " Had you no witnesses?" said the count. "None,"
replied she. " Did no servant pass in or out during the transaction?"
" No one." The viceroy reflected a moment. " Does your com-
fiadre smoke?" " No, sir," said the lady, astonished at this irreva-
ent question, and perhaps the more so, as the count's aversion to
smoking was so well known, that none of his smoking subjects
ventured to approach him without having taken every precaution
to deaden any odour of the fragrant weed which might lurk about
their clothes or person. "Does he take snuff ?" said the viceroy.
" Yes, your Excehency," said his visiter, who probably feared that
for once his Excellency's wits were wool-gathering. " That is
sufficient," said the viceroy; "retire into the adjoining chamber
and keep quiet — your jewels shall be restored." His Excellency then
despatched a messenger for the merchant, who immediately pre
sented himself.
" I have sent for you," said the viceroy, " that we may talk over
some matters in which your mercantile knowledge may be of use
to the state." The merchant was overwhelmed with gratitude and
joy ; while the viceroy entered into conversation with him upon
various affairs connected with his profession. Suddenlythe vice
roy put his hand first in one pocket, then in the other, with the ah
of a man who has mislaid something. " Ah !" said he, " my snuff
box. Excuse me for a moment while I go to fetch it from the next
room." " Sir !" said the merchant, " permit me to have the honour
of offering my box to your Excellency." His Excellency received
it as if mechanically, holding it in his hand and talking, till pre
texting some business, he went out, and calling an officer, desired
him to take that snuff-box to the merchant's house, asking his wife
as from him, by that token, to dehver to the bearer a case of jewels
which he had there. The viceroy returned to the apartment where
he had left his flattered guest, and remained in conversation with
him until the officer returned, and requesting private speech of the

324 THE JEWEL-CASE.
viceroy, dehvered to him a jewel-case which he had received from
the merchant's wife.
Revihagigedo then returned to his fair complainant, and under
pretence of showing her some rooms in the palace, led her into one,
where amongst many objects of value, the jewel-case stood open. No
sooner had she cast her eyes upon it than she started _ forward in joy
and amazement. The viceroy requested her to wait there a httle
longer, and returned to his other guest. " Now," said he, " before
going further, I wish to hear the truth concerning another affair in
wlfich you are interested. Are you acquainted with the Sefiora de
 ?" "Intimately, sir — she is my comadre." " Did you lend
her eight hundred dohars at such a date ? " "I did." " Did she
give you a case of jewels in pledge?" " Never," said the merchant,
vehemently. " The money was lent without any security; merely
as an act of friendship, and she has invented a story concerning some
jewels, which has not the shghtest foundation." In vain the viceroy
begged him to reflect, and not, by adding falsehood to treachery,
force him to take measures of severity. The merchant with oaths
persisted in his denial. The viceroy left the room suddenly, and re
turned with the jewel-case in his hand; at which unexpected appa
rition the astonished merchant changed colour, and entirely lost his
presence of mind. The Adceroy ordered him from his presence, with
a severe rebuke for his falsehood and treachery, and an order never
again to enter the palace. At the same time he commanded him to
send him, the next morning, eight hundred dollars with five hundred
more; which he did, and which were, by the viceroy's order, dis
tributed amongst the hospitals. His Excehency is said to have added
a severe reprimand to the lady, for having made a bargain without
writing. Another story which I recollect, is as fohows : A poor Indian
appeared before the viceroy, and stated that he had found in the
street a bag fuh of golden ounces, which had been advertised with
the promise of a handsome reward to the person who should restore
them to the owner; that upon carrying them to this Don  ,
he had received the bag, counted the ounces, extracted two, which
he had seen him slip into his pocket; and had then reproached the
poor man with having stolen part of the money, had cahed him a
thief and a rascal, and, instead of rewarding, had driven him from the
house. _ With the viceroy there was no delay. Immediate action
was his plan. Detaining the Indian, he despatched an officer to
desire the attendance of Don  with his bag of ounces. He
came; and the viceroy desired him to relate the circumstances, his
practised eye reading his falsehood at a glance. " May it please
your Excellency, I lost a bag containing gold. The Indian, now in
your Excellency's presence, brought it to me in hopes of a 'reward,
having first stolen part of the contents. I drove him from the house
as a thief, who, instead of recompence, deserves punishment."

HORRIBLE MURDER. 325
" Stay," said the viceroy, " there is some mistake here. How
many ounces were there in the bag you lost?" " Twenty-eight."
" And how many are here?" " But twenty-six." " Count them
down. I see it is as you say. The case is clear, and we have ah been
mistaken. Had this Indian been a thief, he would never have
brought back the bag, and stolen merely two ounces. He would
have kept the whole. It is evident that this is not your bag, but
another which this poor man has found. Sir, our interview is at an
end. Continue to search for your bag of gold ; and as for you,
friend, since we cannot find the true owner, sweep up these twenty-
six pieces and carry them away. They are yours." So saying, his
Excellency bowed out the discomfited cheat and the overjoyed rustic.
Mr. — — says that this story, he thinks, is taken from something
similar in an oriental tale. However, it may have occurred twice.
A horrible murder _ to ok place in 1789, during the viceroyaltyship
of Revihagigedo, which is remarkable in two particulars ; the trifling
circumstances which led to its discovery, and the energy displayed
by the _ viceroy, contrasting strongly with the tardy execution of
justice in our days. There hved in Mexico at that period, in the
street of Cordovanes, No. 15, a rich merchant of the name of Don
Joaquin Dongo. A clerk named Jose Joaquin Blanco, who had
formerly been in his office, having fallen into vicious courses, and
joined in companionship with two other young men, Fehpe Aldama
and Baltazar Quintero, gamblers and cock-fighters (with reverence
be it spoken !) hke himseh, formed, in concert with them, a plan
for robbing his former master.
They accordingly repaired to the house one evening when they
knew that Dongo was from home, and imitating the signal which
Blanco knew the coachman was in the habit of making to the porter
when the carriage returned at night, the doors were immediately
thrown open, and the robbers entered. The porter was their first
victim. He was thrown down and stabbed. A postman, who was
waiting with letters for the return of the master of the house, was
the next, and then the cook, and so on, until eleven lay weltering in
their blood. The wretches then proceeded to pick the locks of the
different bureaux, guided by Blanco, who, in his former capacity,
had made himself au fait of all the secrets of the house. They
obtained twenty-two thousand dollars in specie, and about seven
thousand dohars' worth of plate.
Meanwhile, the unfortunate master of the house returned home,
and at the accustomed signal the doors were opened by the robbers,
and on the entrance of the carriage, instantly relocked. Seeing the
porter bathed in blood, and dead bodies lying at the foot of the
staircase, he comprehended at once his desperate situation, and
advancing to Aldama, who stood near the door, he said, " My life
is in your hands; but, for God's sake, show some mercy, and do not
murder me in cold blood. Say what sums of money you want. Take
all that is in the house, and leave me, and I swear to keep your
z 2

326 MURDER OF DONGO.
secret." Aldama consented, and Dongo passed on. As he ascended
the stairs, stepping over the body of the postman, he encountered
Quintero, and to him he made the same appeal, with the same success;
when Blanco, springing forward, held his sword to Quintero's breast,
and swearing a great oath, exclaimed, " If you do not stab him, I
will kih you on the spot." Conceive, for one moment, the situation
of the unfortunate Dongo, surrounded by the murdered and the
murderers, in his own house, at the dead of night, and without a
hope of assistance ! The suspense was momentary. Thus adjured,
Quintero stabbed him to the heart.
The murderers then cohected their spoil, and it being stih dark,
two of them got into Dongo's carriage, the third acting as coachman,
and so drove swiftly out of the gates of the city, tih, arriving at a
deserted spot, not far from a village, they turned the carriage and
mules adrift, and buried their treasure, which they transported after
wards to a house in the Cahe de la Aguila (the street of the eagle),
No. 23 ; and went about their avocations in the morning, as if nothing
had occurred. Meanwhile, the public consternation maybe conceived,
when the morning dawned upon this bloody tragedy. As for the
viceroy, he swore that the murderers should be discovered, and
hanged before his eyes, that day week.
Immediately the most energetic measures were taken, and. the
gates of the city shut, to prevent ah egress. Orders were given
through all the different districts of the capital, that every guest, or
visiter, or boarder, whether in inn or lodging, or private house, should
have their names given up to the pohce, with an account of their con
dition, occupation, motives for hving in Mexico, &c. Strict cognizance
was taken in all the villages near the capital, of every person who
had passed through, or entered, or left the vihage within a certain
space of time. All the roads near the capital were scoured by parties
of soldiers. Every hidden place was searched by the pohce; every
suspected house entered. The funeral of the ill-fated Dongo and of
the other victims, took place the following day ; and it was afterwards
remembered that Aldama was there amongst the foremost, remarking
and commenting upon this horrible wholesale butchery, and upon the
probabilities of discovering the murderers.
A country family from a neighbouring vihage, hearing of all these
doings in Mexico, and with that love of the marvellous wlfich charac
terizes persons uneducated, or unaccustomed to the world, determined
to pay a visit to the capital, and to hear, at the fountain head, all
these wonderful stories, which had probably reached them under a
hundred exaggerated forms. No sooner had they entered their
lodgings than they were visited and examined by the police, and
their deposition taken down as to their motives for visiting the
capital, their place of birth, &c. As a gratuitous piece of information,
one of them mentioned, that, passing by a barber's shop (probably
Avith his eyes opened wide in the expectation of seeing horrible sights),
he had observed a man talking to the barber, who had a stain of blood

A STAIN OF BLOOD. 327
upon his queue, (hair being then worn powdered and tied behind).
Trifling as this circumstance appears to us, the viceroy ordered that
the person who mentioned it should instantly conduct the police
officers to the shop where he had observed it. The shop being
found, the barber was questioned as to what persons he had been
conversing with that morning, and mentioned about half a dozen ;
amongst others Aldama, who did not bear a very good reputation.
Aldamawas sent for, confronted with the man who gave the infor
mation, identified as the same, and the stain of blood being observed,
he was immediately committed to prison upon suspicion. Being
questioned as to the cause of the stain, he rephed, that being at a
cock-fight, on such a day, at such an hour, the blood from one of the
dying cocks, which he held, had spirted up, and stained the collar of
his shirt and his hair. Inquiries being made at the cock-pit, this was
corroborated by several witnesses, and extraordinary as it is, it is
most probable that the assertion was true.
_ But meanwhile, the mother of Blanco, deeply distressed at the
dissolute courses of her son, took the resolution (which proves more
than anything else Revillagigedo's goodness, and the confidence which
all classes had in him) to consult the viceroy as to the means of con
verting the young man to better habits. It seems as if the hand of
an avenging Providence had conducted this unfortunate mother to
take a step so fatal to her son. She told the viceroy that she had
m vain attempted to check him, that his days and nights were spent
with profligate companions in gambling-houses and in cock-pits, and
that she feared some mischief would come some day from his fight
ing and swearing and drinking ; that but a few days since he had
come home late, and that she had observed that his stockings were
dabbled in blood; that she had questioned him upon it, and that he
had answered surlily he had got it in the cock-pit. Her narration
was hardly concluded, before Blanco was arrested and placed in a
separate ceh of the same prison with Aldama. Shortly after, Quin
tero, only as being the intimate friend and companion of both parties,
was taken up on suspicion and lodged in the same prison, all being
separately confined, and no communication permitted between them.
It seems as if Quintero, perhaps the least hardened of the three,
was struck with the conviction, that in the extraordinary combination
of circumstances which had led. to the arrest of himself and his com
panions in villany, the finger of God was too distinctly visible to
permit a doubt of ultimate discovery to rest upon his mind, for he
confessed at once, and declaring that he saw all denial was useless,
gave a circumstantial account of the whole. He begged for nine
days' grace to prepare himself for death, but the viceroy would grant
but three. When Aldama confessed, he made the avowal that he
was guilty of a previous murder, when he Avas alcalde of a village
near Mexico, which was before the time of Revillagigedo, and for
which he had been tried and acquitted. He being alcalde, the post
man of the vihage was in the habit of passing by his house, giving

328 EXECUTION.
him an account of whatever money he had collected, &c. One even
ing this man stopped at Aldama's, and told him he was entrusted
with a sum of fifteen hundred dohars to carry to a neighbouring
vihage. At twelve o'clock he left Aldama's house, who, taking a
short cut across the fields, reached the postman by this other direc
tion, stabbed him, and carried back the money. Next day, when the
murder was made known, the alcalde, in his robes of justice, visited
the body, and affected to institute a strict search for the murderer.
Nevertheless he was suspected and arrested, but escaped by bribery,
and shortly after, leaving the vihage, came to the wider theatre of
Mexico. The murderers having thus made their confession, were ordered to
prepare for death. A scaffold erected between the central gate of
the palace, and that which is now the principal gate of the city guards,
was hung with black to denote that the criminals were of noble blood.
An immense crowd were assembled ; and the viceroy, standing on
the balcony of bis palace, witnessed the execution in the great square,
the very day week that the murders were committed.
The streets were then kept in perfect order, both as to paving and
fighting ; and on one occasion, having rode ah through the city, as
was his custom, to observe whether every thing was in order for the
holy week, he observed that several parts of the different streets were
unpaved, and out of repair ; whereupon, sending for the head of the
pohce, he desired that these streets should be paved and in order
before the holy week, of which it wanted but a few days. The offi
cer declared the thing to be impossible. The viceroy ordered it to
be done, on the penalty of losing his place. Early on the morning
of Palm Sunday, he sent to know if ah was in readiness ; and as the
behs tohed for early mass, the last stone was laid on the Cahe San
Francisco, which completed the work 
It is said he frequently went about incog., attended by one or two
aides-de-camp, by wlfich means, hke another Haroun Al Raschid, he
was enabled to discover and correct hidden abuses. By his orders,
no monk could be out of his convent after vespers. Walking one
evening along the streets, he encountered a monk in the Cahe San
Francisco, taking his pleasure long after the appointed hour. The
viceroy walked directly to the convent ; and on making himself
known, was received by the abbot with ah due respect. " How
many monks have you in your convent, father ?" asked the viceroy.
" Fifty, your Excehency." " There are now only forty-nine. Call
them over, see which is the missing brother, and let his name be
struck out." The hst was produced — the names cahed over, and
only forty-five monks presented themselves. By order of the vice
roy, the five who had broken through the rules, were never again
admitted into the convent. Alas ! Could his Excehency have hved
in these our degenerate days, and beheld certain monks of a certain
order drinking pulque and otherwise disporting themselves ! nay,
seen one, as we but just now did from the window, strolling along

BOX ON THE EAR. 329
the street by lamphght, with an Yntida (Indian girl) tucked under
his arm ! . . . .
One more anecdote of the " immortal Revihagigedo," and I have
done. It was very late at night, when not far from the gate of the
city cahed " The lost child," (in commemoration of that period when
" the child Jesus tarried behind in Jerusalem" and that his parents
sought for him sorrowing,) his Excellency encountered a good-look
ing damsel, walking briskly and alone, at these untimely hours ; yet
withal quiet and modest in her demeanour. Wishing to try the
temper of her steel (or brass) he left his officers a httle way behind ;
and perhaps they were not astonished. ..." Oh! by no means,
certainly not !" — when they saw the grave and severe Revihagigedo
approach the fair maiden somewhat familiarly, and request permis
sion to accompany her in her rambles, a proposal which was indig
nantly rejected. " Anda !," (Come !) saidms Excehency ; " give ovet
these airs — you, amugercilla, strolling about in search of adventures."
Imagine the feehngs of his Excehency, on receiving in reply a tre
mendous and well-applied box on the ear ! The staff rushed forward,
and were astonished to find the viceroy with a smiling countenance,
watching the retreating steps of the adventurous damsel. " What!
your Excehency — such insolence \ suchaudacity ! such  ." " Come,
come," said the viceroy, " she has proved herseh worthy of our
favour. Let instant inquiry be made as to her birth and parentage,
and as to her reasons for being on the streets at this hour. They
must be honest ones." The result proved the viceroy correct in his
opinion. She was a poor ghl, supporting a dying mother by
giving music lessons, and obhged to trudge on foot from house to
house at ah hours ; and amongst her scholars was the daughter of an
old lady who hved out of the gates of the city, and from whose house,
being that of her last visited pupil, she had frequently to return late
at night. On being informed of these particulars, his Excellency
ordered her a pension of three hundred dohars per annum, to be con
tinued to the day of her death, and it is said she is stih alive, though
very old. This is making one's fortune by a coup de main, or by a
lucky hit!
6th August. — This morning we had some very good music ;
Madame Castellan and the tenor, and Madame Cesari having passed
some hours here, together with Madame la Baronne de ¦  and a
few other gentlemen and ladies. La Castehan was very amiable,
and sang beautifuhy, but looked pale and fatigued. She has been
very effective lately in the Somnambula. Madame Cesari was in
great beauty.
About an horn- after they had gone, the new minister and his
family made their entree into Mexico. It is now, however, too late
for us to return till the autumn, as there is a great deal of fever at
Vera Cruz ; nor do we entirely give up hopes, as soon as C  -n
shah be at leisure, of making another journey on horseback into the
interior. There are, however, rumours of another pronunciamento,

330 THE " SAD INDIAN."
and should this be the case, our present quarters next to the palace
wih be more distinguished than agreeable 
I have always had a curiosity to know why the Cahe del Indio
Triste (Street of the Sad Indian) was so called. We are on visiting
terms with two or three houses in that street, and never pass those
large black letters, which tell the passenger that this is the street of
" The Sad Indian," without my imagination figuring to itself that
here some tragedy connected with the conquest must have taken
place. It was therefore with great joy that I fell upon an article in
the " Mosaico Mejicano," purporting to give an explanation of this
melancholy title-page to .an otherwise very tolerable (in the way of
houses) but very ill-paved street, where, amongst other handsome
edifices, is the house of a rich Spaniard (Sefior R  o), remarkable
for its beautiful entrance and elegant salons. It appears that there
are different traditions respecting it. One, that shortly after the
conquest, a rich cacique hved there, who acted as a spy on his Indian
brethren, and informed the viceroy of ah their plans and combina
tions against the government ; but that on one occasion, having failed
to inform his patrons of an intended mutiny, they seized this pretext
for sequestrating his property; — that afterwards, poor, abandoned
and despised, he sat down in the corner of the street, weeping his
misfortune and meeting with no pity ; until at length he abstained
from all food for some days, and was found dead in the corner of the
street, sitting in the same melancholy posture; that the viceroy
declared his wealth crown property, and with the intention of striking
terror into the hearts of the malecontents, caused a stone statue to be
made representing the weeping Indian; that this statue was placed at
the corner of the street, with its back to the wah, and so remained
until the house, being pulled down, the statue was sent to the
Museum, where it now is; the street retaining the name of the Sad
Indian. But there is another tradition mentioned concerning the origin of
the name, more interesting and even more probable. It appears that
the ground now occupied by this street is the site of the Palace of
Axayacatl, the father of Montezuma, last Emperor of Mexico. In
this spacious and magnificent palace the Spaniards were received and
lodged, and, according to Torquemada, each in a separate apartment.
There were a multitude of idols in this dwelling, and though they
had no separate temple, various feasts were dedicated to them. After
the conquest they were for the most part broken and destroyed, and
it was only lately that, by accident, the head of the god of the waters,
beautifully worked in serpentine marble, was discovered there ; stih,
one statue had been preserved, that of an Indian, said to have been
placed there by the Aztecs, as a memorial of their sorrow at the
death of Montezuma, to whom, on account of his misfortunes, they
gave the name of " el Indio triste." This was afterwards placed at
the corner of the new building erected there by the Spaniards, and
gave its name to the street. It is a melancholy-looking statue, whom-

NEWS. 331
soever it may represent, of an Indian : in a sitting posture, with a
most dejected and forlorn air and countenance. The material is
basaltic stone.
11th. — C  n has just returned from seeing the general archives,
which are ah in confusion and going to ruin. Don Ygnacio Cuevas,
who has the charge of them, has written various works — the History
of the Viceroys — the Californias, &c. — which were robbed or
destroyed in the last pronunciamiento. He related the story of
Revihagigedo and the jewels, only differing from my friend's nar
rative in that he says it was not a jewel-case, but a diamond bracelet.
He assured C  n that Mexico in Indian means " below this," al
luding to the population who, according to tradition, are buried
beneath the Pedregal.
18th. — News has arrived that General Paredes pronounced in Gua
dalajara on the eighth of the month ! Strange rumours are afloat,
and it is generally supposed that Santa Anna is or will be the prime
mover of the great changes that are predicted. By many, however,
it is talked of as very trifling, as a mere movement that Avill soon be
put down. The plan which Paredes has pubhshed is essentially
military, but announces a congress, Avhich renders it very popular
in the departments. It has been adopted by the departments of
Zacatecas, Durango, andGuanajoato. Meanwhile, everything con
tinues here as usual. We have been several times at the opera ; the
paseos are very crowded, and we had a musical soiree the other even
ing, which was very gay, but from the signs of the times, will pro
bably be our last in Mexico.
28th. — This morning C  n took his fareweh audience of the
president, and the new minister was received.
30th. — These few last days have chiefly been spent in paying visits
of ceremony with the Sefiora  . Nevertheless, we spent an hour
last evening in the beautiful cemetery a little way_ out of the city,
which is rather a favourite haunt of ours, and is known as the
" Panteon de Santa Maria." It has a beautiful chapel attached to
it, where daily mass is said for the dead, and a large garden filled
with flowers. Young trees of different kinds have been planted
there, and the sight of the tombs themselves, in their long and me
lancholy array of black coffins, with gold-lettered inscriptions, _ even
while it inspires the saddest ideas, has something soothing m its
effect. They are kept in perfect order, and the inscriptions, though
not always eloquent, are almost always full of feehng, and sometimes
extremely touching. There is one near the entrance, which is
pathetic in its native language, and though it loses much in the
translation, I shah transcribe it : _
" Here he the beloved remains of Carmen and Jose Pimentel y
Heras. The first died the 11th of June, 1838, aged one year and
eleven months; the second on the 5th of September of 1839, m the
sixteenth month of his existence; and to their dear memory maternal
love dedicates the following: —

332 VERSES.
" EPITAPH.
" Babes of my love ! my Carmen and Jose' !
Sons of your cherished father, Pimentel.
Why have you left your mother's side ? for whom ?
What motives have ye had to leave me thus ?
But hark ! I hear your voice — and breathlessly
I listen. I hear ye say — ' To go to heaven !
Mother ! we have left thee to see our God ! '
Beloved shades ! if this indeed be so,
Then let these bitter tears be turned to joy.
It is not meet that I should mourn for ye,
Since me ye have exchanged for my God.
To Him give thanks ! and in your holy songs,
Pray that your parents' fate may be like yours."

LETTER THE FORTY-FOURTH.

Agitation — Storm — Revolution — Manifesto — Resembling a Game of Chess —
Position of the Pieces — Appearance of the City — Firing — State of Parties —
Comparisons — " Comicios" — The People — Congress — Santa Anna — Amnesty
offered — Roaring of Cannon — Proclamation — Time to look at home — The
Will of the Nation — Different Feelings — Judge's House destroyed — The
Mint in Requisition — Preparations — Cannonading — " Los Enanos." 31st.
This afternoon the clouds, gathered together in gloomy masses,
announced a thunder-storm, and at the same time a certain degree of
agitation apparently pervading the city, was suddenly observable
from our balconies. Shops were shutting up ; people hurrying in all
directions, heads at all the windows, and men looking out from the
azoteas; but as these symptoms were immediately fohowed by a tre
mendous storm of thunder and hghtning and plashing rain, we
trusted that the cause had been very simple. But these elements of
nature are wielded by the Hand that cahed them forth, and can stay
them at His wih, and the sun breaking forth smilingly and scattering
the clouds, made us feel that the storm had but refreshed the parched
earth and cleared the sultry atmosphere. Not so with the storm
which has been brooding in the hearts of a handful of ambitious
men, and which has burst forth at last, its bolts directed by no wise
or merciful power, but by the hands of selfish and designing and
short-sighted mortals.
The storm, though short, had not passed away, when news was

REVOLUTION. 333
brought us of a new revolution in Mexico ! General Valencia, he who
pronounced ^but two short months ago!) the high-flown and
flattering speech to the president, on receiving the sword of honour,
has now pronounced in a very different and much clearer manner.
Listen to him now: —
" Soldiers ! The despotism of the Mexican government, the
innumerable evils which the nation suffers, the unceasing remon
strances which have been made against these evils, and which have
met with no attention, have forced us to take a step this evening,
which is not one of rebellion, but is the energetic expression of
our resolution to sacrifice every thing to the common good and
interest. The cause which we defend is that of ah Mexicans; of
the rich as of the poor; of the soldier as of the civilian. We want
a country, a government, the fehcity of our homes, and respect
from without; and we shah obtain ah; let us not doubt it. The
nation wih be moved by our example. The arms -which our
country has given us for her defence, we shah known how to em
ploy in restoring her honour — an honour which the government
has stained by not acknowledging the total absence of morahty
and energy in the actual authorities. The army which made her
independent shah also render her powerful and free. The illus
trious General Santa Anna to-day marches to Puebla, at the head
of our heroic companions at Vera Cruz, while upon Queretaro,
already united to the vahant General Paredes, the brave General
Cortazar now begins his operations.
" In a few days we shah see the other forces of the republic in
motion, all co-operating to the same end. The triumph is secure,
my friends, and the cause which we proclaim is so noble, that, con
querors, we shah be covered with glory; and, happen what may,
we shah be honoured by our fellow-citizens."
In this manifesto, which is mere declamation, there is no plan.
It appears that no one particularly counted upon General Valencia,
and that, whether fearing to be left out in the events which he saw
approaching, or apprehensive of being arrested by the government,
who suspected him, he has thought it wisest to strike a blow on his
own account. Pacheco, who commanded the citadel, together
with Generals Lombardini and Sales, who had been ordered out
to march with their respective regiments against the pronunciados,
axe now in the citadel, and in a state of revolt. The two last had
but just received money for the payment of their troops on the pre
ceding day. .... .
8 o'clock.— Nothing further, but that the president has sallied
forth on horseback from San Agustin, and was received with re
peated vivas by the people collected in the square. _
1st September.— This revolution is hke a game at chess, in which.
kings, castles, knights, and bishops, are making different moves,
while the pawns are looking on or taking no part whatever. _
To understand the state of' the board, it is necessary to explain

334 THE CITY.
the position of the four principal pieces — Santa Anna, Bustamante,
Paredes, and Valencia. The first move was made by Paredes, who
published his plan, and pronounced on the eighth of August at
Guadalajara. About the same time, Don F  M  , a Spa
nish broker, Avho had gone to Manga de Clavo, was sent to Gua
dalajara, and had a conference with Paredes, the result of which
was, that the plan of that general was withdrawn, and it was sup
posed that he and Santa Anna had formed a combination. Shortly
after, the Censor of Vera Cruz, a newspaper entirely devoted to
Santa Anna, pronounced in favour of the plan of Paredes, and
Santa Anna, Avith a few miserable troops, and a handful of cavahy,
arrived at Perote. Here he remains for the present, kept in check
by the (government) General Torrejon. Meanwhile Paredes, with
about six hundred men, left Guadalajara and marched upon Gua
najuato; and there a blow was given to the government party by
the defection of General Cortazar, who thought fit thus to show his
grateful sense of having just received the rank of general of brigade
with the insignia of this new grade, .which the president put on
with his own hands. Another check to the president. Once begun,
defection spread rapidly, and Paredes and Cortazar having
advanced upon Queretaro, found that General Juvera, with his
garrison, had already pronounced there, at . the moment that they
Avere expected in Mexico to assist the government against Valencia.
Paredes, Cortaza, and Juvera are now united, and their forces
amount to two thousand two hundred men.
Meanwhile General Valencia, pressed to declare his plan, has
replied that he aAvaits the announcement of the intentions of Gene
rals Paredes and Santa Anna; and, for his own part, only desires
the dismissal of General Bustamante.
This then, is the position of the three principal pronounced chiefs,
on this second day of September of the year of our Lord 1841.
Santa Anna in Perote, hesitating whether to advance or retreat,
and, in fact, prevented from doing either, by the vicinity of Ge
neral Torrejon. Paredes in Queretaro, with the other revolted
generals. Valencia in the citadel of Mexico, with his pronun
ciados; while Bustamante, Avith Generals Almonte and Canahzo, the
mark against wlfich all these hostile operations are directed, is
determined,' it is said, to fight to the last.
Mexico looksas if it had got a general holiday. Shops shut up,
and all business is at a stand. The people, with the utmost apathy,
are collected in groups, talking quietly; the officers are gahoping
about; generals, in a somewhat party-coloured dress, with large
gray hats, striped pantaloons, old coats, and generals' belts, fine
horses, and crimson-coloured velvet saddles. The shopkeepers in
the square have been removing their goods and money. An occa
sional shot is heard, and sometimes a volley, succeeded by a dead
silence. The archbishop shows his reverend face noAV and then
upon the opposite balcony of his palace, looks out a httle while,

THE PRESIDENT. 335
and then retires. The chief effect, so far, is universal idleness in
man and beast, — the soldiers and their quadrupeds excepted.
_ The position of the president, however, is not so bad as at first
sight fr might appear, or as it will be, if his enemies are permitted
to reunite. He has upwards of two thousand men, twelve pieces
of ordnance, and, though his infantry are few, and he has httle
artillery, he has good cavalry. Valencia has twelve hundred men,
twenty-six pieces of ordnance, with good infantry, and almost all
the artillery. The rebels have possessed themselves of the Acordada,
and given hberty to those who were imprisoned for pohtical opinions —
a good loophole for the escape of criminals.
Those who understand these matters say that the principal object
of the government should be to reduce the rebels to the citadel only,
and to occupy all the important points in its neighbourhood, San
Diego, San Hipolito, San Fernando, &c; but as yet this has not
been done, and the pronunciados are graduahy extending, and taking
possession of these points. ...
3d. — They are now keeping up a pretty brisk fire between San
Agustin and the citadel. This morning the streets were covered with
coaches, filled with famihes leaving the city.
4th. — Things are becoming more comphcated. The rebels now
occupy San Jose, Salto de Agua, the cohege of Vizcaynas (from
which all the poor girls and their teachers have fled), Regina, San
Juan de la Penitencia, San Diego, and San Fernando — a long line
of important points. The president's line begins at San Francisco,
continuing by La Concepcion; but, without a map of the city, you
will not understand the position of the two parties. However, every
turret and belfry is covered with soldiers, and the streets are blocked
up with troops and trenches. From behind these turrets and trenches
they fire at each other, scarcely a soldier falhng, but numbers of
peaceful citizens ; shells and bombs falhng through the roofs of the
houses, and all this for " the public good."
The war of July had at least a shadow of pretext; it was a war of
party, and those who wished to re-establish federahsm may have
acted with good faith. Now there is neither principle, nor pretext,
nor plan, nor the shadow of reason or legahty. Disloyalty, hypo
crisy, and the most sordid calculation, are ah the motives that can
be discovered; and those who then affected an ardent desire for the
welfare of their country have now thrown aside their masks, and
appear in their true colours; and the great mass of the people, who,
thus passive and oppressed, allow their quiet homes to be invaded,
are kept in awe neither by the force of arms, nor by the depth of
the views of the conspirators, but by a handful of soldiers, who are
themselves scarcely aware of their own wishes or intentions, but that
they desire power and distinction at any price.
It is said that the federalists are very much elated, hoping for the
eventual triumph of their party, particularly in consequence of a
proclamation by Valencia, which appeared two days ago, and is

336 CONGRESS.
cahed " the plan of the Comicios," said to be written by General
Tomel, who has gone over to the citadel, and who, having a great
deal of classical learning, talks in it of the Roman Committees (the
Comicios). Since then the revolution has taken the name of hberal,
and is supported by men of name, the Pedrazas, Belderas, Riva
Palacio, and others, which is of great importance to Valencia, and
has given force and consistency to his party. Besides this, the pro
nunciados have the advantage of a free field from the citadel out to
Tacubaya, where it is said that certain rich bankers, who are on their
side, are constantly supplying the citadel with cartloads of copper,
which they send in from thence 
Meanwhile, we pass our time very quietly. In the morning we
generahy have visiters very early, discussing the probabilities, and
giving us the last reports. Sometimes we venture out when there is
no firing, which is much less constant and alarming than it was last
year. So far we continue to have visiters in the evening, and Sefior
B  and I have been playing duets on the harp and piano, even
though Mexico is declared " in a state of siege." The  minister,
who was here this morning, does, however, strongly recommend us
to change our quarters, and to remove to Tacubaya; which wih be
so troublesome, that we are inchned to delay it until it becomes
absolutely necessary 
5th. — We went upon the azotea this afternoon, to have a
good view of the city. There were people on almost all the balco
nies, as on a fete-day. A picturesque group of friars of the order of
La Merced, in their white robes, had mounted up on the belfry of
their church, and were looking out anxiously. The palace roof next
our own had soldiers on it. Every thing at that moment was stih
and tranquil; but the conduct of the people is our constant source of
surprise. Left entirely uncurbed, no one to direct them, thousands
out of employment, many without bread, they meddle with nothing,
do not complain, and scarcely seem to feel any interest in the result.
How easily might such a people be directed for their good ! It is
said that all their apathetic sympathies are in favour of Bustamante.
Some say that Santa Anna wih arrive to-day — some that the
whole affair wih be settled by treaty ; but neither reports nor bulletins
can be depended on, as scarcely any one speaks according to his true
feelings or behef, but according to his pohtical party. . . .
It appears that the conduct of congress in this emergency has
given httle satisfaction. They affect to give a declaration of the
national will, and are as ambiguous as the Delphic Oracle; and it is
said that their half-measures, and determination not to see that pubhc
opinion is against them, and that a thorough change can alone under
mine this mihtary revolution, wih contribute more than any thing to
its eventual triumph 
The president has made use of the extraordinary powers which
have been granted him by the Poder Conservador (conservative
power, a singular and intermediate authority introduced into the

opinions. 337
Mexican constitution), to abohsh the ten per cent, on consumption,
and to modify the personal contribution, reducing it to the richer
classes alone. This concession has apparently produced no effect.
It is said that the government troops continue to desert, convinced
that a revolution in which Santa Anna takes part must triumph.
Four new generals have been made by the president 
6th. — We went out to Tacubaya, and found it impossible to pro
cure a room there, far less a house. This is also the case in Guada
lupe, San Joaquin, in fact in every vihage near Mexico. We are in
no particular danger, unless they were to bombard the palace. There
was a shght shock of an earthquake yesterday.
10th. — On the 7th, the president offered an amnesty to the pro
nunciados. Whatever might have been the result, the evening
concluded with a terrible thunder-storm, mingled with the roaring of
cannon, which had a most lugubrious effect. Many people were
killed on the street. We had gone out in the morning, but met the
Ex-Minister H  a, who strongly advised us to return home
directly, as bahs were falling, and accidents happening all round.
Soon after, a proclamation was issued by General Valencia, pur
porting that if the president would not yield, he would bombard
the palace;, and that if the powder which is kept there were to blow
up, it would ruin hah the city. This induced us to look at home,
for if the palace is bombarded, the Casa de Moneda cannot escape,
and if the palace is blown up, the Casa de Moneda wih most cer
tainly keep it company. When the proclamation came out in the
morning, various were the opinions expressed in consequence. Some
believed it to be a mere threat, and others that it would take place
at eleven at night. An old supernumerary soldier who hves here
(one of those who was disabled by the last revolution) assured us
that we had better leave the house, and as we refused, on the plea of
having no safer house to go to, he walked off to the azotea, telling us
he would let us know when the first bomb feh on the palace, and
that then we must go perforce. In the evening we went down
stairs to the large vaulted rooms where they are making cannon bahs,
and where the vaults are so thick and sohd, that it was thought we
should be in safety, even if General Valencia really kept his word.
We sat up that night till twelve o'clock, listening anxiously, but
nothing happened; and now, inconsequence of a deputation which
has been sent to the citadel by certain foreigners of distinction
(though unknown to the government), we are no longer afraid of any
sudden assault of this kind, as General Valencia has promised, in
consideration of their representations, not to proceed to these last
extremities unless driven to them for his own defence. . . .
In listening to the different opinions which are current, it would
seem that Bustamante, Santa Anna, and Valencia, are ah equally
unpopular ; and that the true wih of the nation, which congress was.
afraid to express, was first for the immediate convocation of a Con
stitutional Congress; and secondly, that they should not be governed

338 LOS ENANOS.
by Santa Anna, yet that Bustamante should renounce, and a pro-
visional president be named 
Santa Anna writes, complaining that Bustamante, by assuming
extraordinary powers, commanding the army and yet continuing
president, is infringing the constitution. But as he is coming on to
destroy it entirely, this is being rather particular. It is reported that
the typhus fever is in the citadel, but there are many floating ru
mours, which are not to be depended upon. . . . There is evidently
a great deal of consternation beginning to be felt amongst the lower
classes. Foreigners generahy are inchned towards Santa Anna,
Mexicans to Bustamante ; but all feel the present evils. The leperos
seem to swarm in greater numbers than ever, and last evening two
small shops were broken into and robbed. In vain the president
publishes manifestos that the shops may be opened; they remain
carefully shut, all commerce paralyzed, and every one, who has the
means to do so, leaving the city.
We hear that the shells from the citadel have destroyed part of
the beautiful house belonging to Judge Pena y Pefias, in front of the
Alameda. 11th. — We have just received private, information from the
government, that they will shortly require this house for arms and
ammunition and troops; coupled with stih more private advice to
provide for our safety by leaving it. We shall therefore gladly accept
the kind invitation of the F  a family, to remove to their hacienda
of San Xavier, about three leagues from this. We had at first de
clined this invitation, owing to its distance from the city — incon
venient for us, who are only waiting for the first opportunity to leave
it; but besides that after the most diligent search in all the sur
rounding villages, we cannot find a single unoccupied room, we are
very glad to _ spend our remaining days in Mexico with so distin
guished a family. I shall therefore write httle more at present on
the subject of the revolution, which now that we have hved some
time in Mexico, and have formed friendships there, fills us Avith
feelings entirely different from those which the last produced; with
personal sentiments of regret, private fears and hopes for the future,
and presentiments of evil which owe more than half their sadness to
incuvidual feehngs.
12th. — We are now in the midst of ah the confusion occasioned by
another removal; surrounded by trunks and boxes and cargadores,
and at the same time by our friends (ah those Avho have not taken
flight yet) taking leave of us. . . .
A great cannonading took place last night, but without any im
portant result. The soldiers, in the day-time, amuse themselves by
insulting each other from the roofs of the houses and convents.
Yesterday, one of the president's party singled out a soldier in the
citadel, shot him, and then began to dance the Enanos, and in the
midst of a step, he was shot, and rohed over, dead.
We shall write again from San Xavier.

339

LETTER THE FORTY-FIFTH.
Leave Mexico— Travelling Equipage— San Xavier— Fine Hacienda— Million
aires— Well-educated Ladies— Garden, &c— Tlanapantla— Indian Hut—
Mrs. Ward— Dona Margarita— The Pronunciamiento —False Step— Santa
Anna in Puebla— Neutrality— General Paredes— President in Tlanapantla—
Tired Troops— Their March— Their Return— Curate's House— Murder-
General Paredes in the Lecheria— President in Tlanapantla— A Meeting-
Return of the President and his Troops— General Paredes and his Men-
Santa Anna in Tacubaya— A Junction— President in Mexico— Allied Sove
reigns — Plan— Articles— President declares for Federalism— Resigns— Results
—Hostilities— Capitulation— Triumphal Entry— Te Deum— New Ministry.
San Xavier, 16th September.
After a morning of fatigue, confusion, bustle, leave-taking, &c.
&c, a coach with four mules, procured with the utmost difficulty,
drove up to the door ; the coach old and crazy, the mules and harness
quite consistent, and the postihons so tipsy that they could hardly
keep their seats. But we had no time to be particular, and chmbed
in amidst bows and hand-shakings, and prophecies of breaking down
and of being robbed by a band of for gats headed by a Spaniard, who
are said to be scouring the country; who axe said tobe, for just now,
seeing is believing, and few reports are worth attending to. How
ever, we took two servants on horseback, by way of escort, and
rattled off, the coach creaking ominously, the postihons swinging
from side to side, and our worthy housekeeper, whom we had carried
off from the smoking city, screaming out her last orders to the
galopina, concerning a certain green parrot which she had left in the
charge of that tender-hearted damsel, who, with her reboso at her
eyes, surrounded by directors of the mint, secretaries of legation,
soldiers and porters, had enough to do to take charge of herself.
The city looked very sad, as Ave drove through the streets; with
closed shops, and barred windows, and cannon planted, and
soldiers riding about. At every village we passed, the drivers cahed
for brandy, tossed off a glassful, Avhich appeared to act hke a com
posing draught, as they gradually recovered their equihbrium. We
were glad to arrive at San Xavier, where we received a most cordial
welcome, and to be removed, at least for a while, from sights and
sounds of destruction. A great part of the road to Tlanapantla, the
village near which San Xavier is situated, leads through traces of
the ruins of the ancient Tenochtitlan.
This part of the country is extremely pretty, being a corn and not
a maguey district. Instead of the monotonous and stiff magueys,
whose head never bends to the blast, we are surrounded by fields of
2 a

340 THE FAMILY.
waving corn. There are also plenty of trees; poplar, ash, and elm;
and one flourishing specimen of the latter species, which we see from
the windows in front of the house, was brought here by Mr. Poinsett.
The hacienda, which is about three leagues from Mexico, is a large
irregular building in rather a low situation, surrounded by dark blue
bills. It belongs to the Sefioras de F  a, of the family of the
Marquis de A  o ; millionaires — being rich in haciendas and
silver mines; very rehgious, very charitable, and what is less common
here, extremely learned; understanding French, Enghsh, German,
and even Latin. Their education they owe to the care of their
father, one of the most distinguished men in Mexico, who was
banished twice, once for hberal opinions, and the second time for sup
porting the " Plan of Iguala," in fact, for not being hberal enough.
In these emigrations, his family accompanied him, travelled over a
great part of Europe, and profited by their opportunities. They re
turned here when the independence was accomphshed, hoping for
peace, but in vain. Constant alarms, and perpetual revolutions have
succeeded one another ever since that period.
The hacienda has the usual quantum of furniture belonging to
these country houses; and it is certainly no longer a matter of sur
prise to us, that rich proprietors take httle interest in embellishing
them. A house which wih in ah probabihty be converted once a
year into a barrack, is decidedly better in a state of nature, than
encumbered with elegant furniture. This house has been entirely
destroyed in that way more than once ; and the last time that it was
occupied by. troops, was left hke an Augean stable. We have here
the luxury of books. My room opens into a beautiful chapel,
covered with paintings representing saints and Aargins holding lilies,
where mass is said occasionally, though the family generahy attend
mass in the vihage church of Tlanapantla. Before the house is a small
flower garden fihed with roses and peculiarly fine dahlias, pomegra
nate trees and violets, which, though single, have a dehcious fra
grance. This stretches out into an immense vegetable garden and
orchard, terminating in a shrubbery, through which walks are cut,
impervious to the sun at noon-day. There is also a large reservoir
of water, and the garden, which covers a great space of ground, is
kept in good order. There are beautiful walks in the neighbour
hood, leading to Indian villages, old churches, and farms ; and all
the lanes are bordered with fruit trees.
Tlanapantla, which means in Indian, between lands, its church
having been built by the Indians of two districts, is a small village,
with an old church, ruined remains of a convent, where the curate
now lives, a few shops, and a square where the Indians hold market
(tangis they cah it) on Fridays. All along the lanes are smah Indian
huts, with their usual mud floor, smah altar, earthen vessels, and col
lection of daubs on the walls; especiahy of the Virgin of Guadalupe;
with a few blest palm-leaves in the corner; occupied, when the men
are at work, by the Indian woman herseh, her sturdy, scantily-clothed

REVOLUTION. 341
progeny, and plenty of yelping dogs. Mrs. Ward's sketch of the
interior of an Indian hut is perfect, as all her Mexican sketches are.
When the women are also out at their work, they are frequently
tenanted by the httle children alone. Taking refuge from a shower
of rain yesterday, in one of these mud huts, we found no one there
but a httle bronze-coloured child, about three years old, sleeping all
alone on the floor, with the door wide open; and though we talked
loud, and walked about in the cottage, the httle thing never
wakened. A second shower drove us for shelter to a farmhouse,
where we entered a sort of oratorio attached to the house ; a room
which is not consecrated, but has an altar, crucifix, holy pictures,
&c. The floor was strewed with flowers, and in one corner Avas an
old stringless violoncello, that might have formed a pendant to the
haip of Tara.
However, the most remarkable object of the rancho is its pro
prietress, a tall, noble-looking Indian, Dona Margarita by name, a
mountaineer by birth, and now a rich widow, possessing lands and
flocks, though hving in apparent poverty. The bulk of her fortune
she employs in educating poor orphans. Every poor child who has
no parents, finds in her a mother and protectress ; the more wretched,
or sick, or deformed, the more certain of an asylum with her. She
takes them into her house, brings them up as her own children, has
them bred to some useful employment, and when they are old enough,
married. If it is a boy, she chooses him a wife from amongst the
girls of the mountains, where she was born, who she says are " less
corrupted " than the girls of the village. She has generally from
twelve to twenty on her hands, always filhng up with new orphans
the vacancies caused in her small colony by death or marriage. There
is nothing picturesque about these orphans, for, as I said before, the
most deformed and helpless, and maimed and sick, are the peculiar
objects of Dona Margarita's care; nevertheless, we saw various
healthy, happy-looking girls, busied in various ways, washing and
ironing, and sewing, whose very eyes gleamed when we mentioned
her name, and who spoke of her with a respect and affection that it
was pleasant to witness. Truly, this woman is entitled to happy
dreams and soft slumbers ! The remainder of her fortune she em
ploys in the festivals and ceremonies of the church ; in fireworks, in
ornaments for the altars, &c.
19th. — Every day a messenger arrives from Mexico, bringing news
of the pronunciamiento, which are eagerly waited for, and read with
intense interest. It is probable, now, that affairs will soon come to
a crisis. A step has been taken by the president, which is consi
dered very imprudent by those who are looking on in this great
game. General Torrejon, who with nine hundred good soldiers kept
Santa Anna in awe at Perote, has been sent for to Mexico, Bustamante
wishing to reunite his forces. These troops, together with those of
Codahos(the Governor of Puebla) brings up, his army to three thou
sand five hundred, or some say to four thousand men, all effective,
2 a2

342 PRESIDENT AT TLANAPANTLA.
and of which nine hundred are good cavalry. Bustamante being
now at the head of the army, Hechavama exercises the executive
power, according to the constitution, in his capacity of president of
the Council of State, ( Consejo de Estado ; the Mexicans having no
\dce-president). Santa Anna, who had until now remained in Perote with his un
organized troops, no officers on whom he could depend, and a handful
of miserable cavahy, has moved forwards to Puebla. Arrived there,
his numbers were increased by one hundred men of the Tobacco
customs, (brought him by Sefior  , who witha rich Spanish
banker went out to meet him,) forty horsemen seduced from the
escort of Codahos, and a company of watchmen ! As yet, no move
ment has taken place or seems hkely to take place in his favour in
Puebla. Seiior Haro is named governor of that city in the place of
Codahos, who was sent for to join the president in Mexico; and
Puebla, which used to be the great theatre of revolutions, has re
mained on this occasion in the most perfect neutrality, neither de
claring for one party or the other ; probably the wisest course to
pursue at this juncture. Every one is of opinion that five hundred
troops sent by Bustamante, would instantly put this mongrel army of •
Santa Anna's to flight; for though he has cohected about a thousand
men, he has not three hundred good soldiers. . . .
On the other hand, General Paredes is marching in this direction
with General Cortazar, his orders from Santa Anna no doubt being
to keep the president in play, and to divert his attention by treaties
or preliminaries of treaties, whilst he continues to march with caution
towards the capital. The great event to be dreaded by the govern
ment is a junction of the pronunciado forces. As long as they are
separate, it is in no immediate danger ; but like the bundle of rods,
what can easily be broken separately, wih assume strength when joined
together. I make no further excuse for talking about politics. We
talk and think of httle else.
21st. — Yesterday (Sunday) we were startled by the intelligence,
that Generals Canafizo and Noriega had arrived at the village in the
middle of the night, with a large troop, and that General Busta
mante himseh had made his appearance there at five in the morning;
so that the peaceful little Tlanapantla had suddenly assumed a war
like appearance. As it lies on the direct road to Guanajuato there'
could be no doubt that they were marching to meet Paredes. C  n
immediately walked down to the village to pay his respects to the
president, who was lodged at the curate's, and meanwhile General ¦
Noriega came to the hacienda to see the ladies. C  n found the
president very much fatigued, having passed fourteen days and nights ¦
under aims, and in constant anxiety; General Orbegoso was with
him. After breakfast we went down to the village to see the troops,
who were resting there for a few hours. The cavalry occupied the
square, the horses standing, and the men stretched asleep on the .

DEPARTURE, ETC. 343
ground, each soldier beside his horse. The infantry occupied the
churchyard. Dreadfully fatigued, they were lying some on the
grassland others with their heads pillowed on the old tomb-stones,
resting as well as they could with their armour on. Before they
started, the curate said mass to them in the square. There was a
good deal of difficulty in procuring the most common food for so
many hungry men. Tortillas had been baked in haste, and ah the
hens in the village were put in requisition to obtain eggs for the
president and his officers. We sat down in a porch to see them set
off, a melancholy sight enough, in spite of drums beating and trum
pets sounding. An old soldier, who came up to water his own and
his master's horse, began to talk to us of what was going on, and
seemed any thing but enthusiastic at the prospects of himself and his
comrades, assuring us that the army of General Paredes was double
their number. He was covered with wounds received in the war
against Texas, and expressed his firm conviction that we should see
the Comanche Indians on the streets of Mexico one of these days, at
which savage tribe he appeared to have a most devout horror ; de
scribing to a gaping audience the manner in which he had seen a
party of them devour three of their prisoners 
About four o'clock the signal for departure was sounded, and they
went off amidst the cheers of the people.
22d. — Great curiosity was excited yesterday afternoon, when news
was brought us that Bustamante, with his generals and troops, had
returned, and had passed through the village, on their way back to
Mexico 1 Some say that this retrograde march is in consequence of a
movement made in Mexico by General Valencia — others that it has
been caused by a message received from General Paredes. We paid
a visit in the evening to the old curate, who was pretty much in the
dark, morally and figuratively, in a very large hall, where were as
sembled a number of females, and one tahow candle. Of course all
were talking pohtics, and especially discoursing of the visit of the
president the preceding night, and of his departure in the morning,
and of his return in the afternoon, and of the difficulty of procuring
tortillas for the men, and eggs for the officers.
23d.— We have received news this morning of the murder of our
porter, the Spaniard whom we brought here from Havana. He had
left us, and was employed as porter in afabrica (manufactory), where
the wife and family of the proprietor resided. Eight of General
Valencia's soldiers salhed forth from the citadel to rob this factory,
and poor Jose, the most faithful and honest of servants, having va
liantly defended the door, was cruelly murdered. They afterwards
entered the building, robbed, and committed dreadful outrages.
They are selhng printed papers through the streets to-day, giving an
account of it. The men are taken up, and it is said will be shot by
orders of the general ; but we doubt this, even though a message
has arrived, requiring the attendance of the padre who confesses en-

344 GENERAL PAREDES.
minals; a Franciscan monk, who, with various of his brethren, are
hving out here for safety at present.
The situation of Mexico is melancholy.
24th. — News have arrived that General Paredes has arrived at the
Lecheria, an hacienda belonging to this family, about three leagues
from San XaAfier ; and that from thence he sent one of the servants
of the farm to Mexico, inviting the president to a personal confer
ence. The family take this news of their hacienda's being turned
into mihtary quarters very philosophically; the only precaution on
these occasions being to conceal the best horses, as the pronunciados
help themselves, without ceremony, to these useful quadrupeds,
wherever they are to be found.
26th. — This morning, General Bustamante and Ms troops arrived
at Tlanapantla, the president in a coach. Having met C  n on
the road, he stopped for a few moments and informed him that he
was on his way to meet General Paredes at the Lecheria, where he
hoped to come to a composition with him. We listened ah day
with anxiety, but hearing no firing, concluded that some arrange
ment had in fact been made. In the evening we walked out on the
high road, and met the president, the governor, and the troops all
returning. What securities Bustamante can have received, no one
can imagine, but it is certain that they have met without striking a
blow. It was nearly dusk as they passed, and the president bowed
cheerfully, while some of the officers rode up, and assured us that all
was settled.
Sunday, 27th. — Cavalry, infantry, carriages, cannons, &c, aTe
ah passing through the vihage. These are the pronunciados, with
General Paredes, following to Mexico. Feminine curiosity induces
me to stop here, and to join the party who are going down to the
Aollage to see them pass 
We have just returned after a sunny walk, and an inspection of
the pronunciados — they are too near Mexico now for me to venture
to cah them the rebels. The infantry, it must be confessed, was in
a very ragged and rather drunken condition — the cavahy better,
having borrowed fresh horses as they went along. Though certainly
not point-device in their accoutrements, their good horses, high sad
dles, bronze faces, and picturesque attire, had a fine effect as they
passed along under the burning sun. The sick followed on asses,
and amongst them various masculine women, with sarapes or mangos,
and large straw hats, tied down with coloured handkerchiefs,
mounted on mules or horses. The sumpter mules followed, carrying
provisions, camp-beds, &c. ; and various Indian women trotted on
foot in the rear, carrying theh husbands' boots and clothes. There
was certainly no beauty amongst these feminine followers of the
camp, especiahy amongst the mounted Amazons, who looked like
very ugly men in a semi-female disguise. The whole party are on
their way to Tacubaya, to join Santa Anna ! The game is nearly

ALLIED SOVEREIGNS. 345
up now. Check from two knights and a castle — from Santa Anna
and Paredes in Tacubaya, and from Valencia in the citadel. People
are flying in ah directions, some from Mexico, and others from Gua
dalupe and Tacubaya. . . .
It appears that Santa Anna was marching from Puebla, feeling
his way towards the capital in fear and trembhng. At Rio Frio a
sentinel's gun having accidentahy gone off, the whole army were
thrown into the most ludicrous consternation and confusion. Near
Oyotla the general's brow cleared up, for here he was met by com
missioners from the government, Generals Orbegoso and Guyame.
In a moment the quick apprehension of Santa Anna saw that the
day was his own. He gave orders to continue the march with all
speed to Tacubaya, affecting to hsten to the proposals of the com
missioners, amusing them without compromising himself, and offer
ing to treat with them at Mexicalsingo. They returned without having
received any decided answer, and without, on their part, having
given any assurance that his march should not be stopped; yet he
has been permitted to arrive unmolested at Tacubaya, where Paredes
has also arrived, and where he has been joined by General Valencia;
so that the three pronunciado generals are now united there to dispose
of the fate of the republic. . . .
The same day General Almonte had an interview with Santa
Anna, who said with a smile, when he left him, " Es buen mucha-
cho (he is a good lad) — he may be of service to us yet." . . .
The three allied sovereigns are now in the archbishop's palace at
Tacubaya, from whence they are to dictate to the president and the
nation. But they are, in fact, chiefly occupied with their respective
engagements and respective rights. Paredes wishes to fulfil his
engagements with the departments of Guanajuato, Jahsco, Zaca
tecas, Aguas Cahentes, Queretaro, &c. In his plan he promised
them rehgious toleration, permission for foreigners to hold property,
arid so on — the last, in fact, being his favourite project. Valencia,
on his side, has his engagements to fulfil with the federalists, and
has proposed Sefior Pedraza as an integral part of the regeneration —
one whose name will give confidence now and for ever to his party.
General Santa Anna has engagements with himself. He has deter
mined to command them all, and allows them to fight amongst them
selves, provided he governs. Paredes is, in fact, furious with Va
lencia, accusing him of having interfered, when not wanted, and of
having ruined his plan, by minghng it with a revolution, with which
it had no concern. He does not reflect that Valencia was the person
who gave the mortal wound to the government. Had he not revolted,
Santa Anna would not have left Perote, nor Paredes himseh have
passed on unmolested. ...
The conservative body has been invited to go to Tacubaya, but
has refused. The majority desire the election of Paredes, or of any
one who is not Santa Anna or Valencia; but Paredes himself, while
drawing no very flattering portrait of Santa Anna, declares that he

346 PLAN OF TACUBAYA.
is the only man in the republic fit for the presidency — the only man
who can make himseh obeyed — in short, the only one capable of
taking those energetic measures which the safety of the repubhc
requires. He flatters himself that he, at the head of his division,
will always keep Santa Anna in check; as if Cortazar, who deserted
Bustamante in a moment of difficulty, could be depended on ! . . . .
Meanwhile they are fortifying Mexico ; and some suppose that
Bustamante and his generals have taken the rash determination of
permitting all their enemies to unite, in order to destroy them at
one blow 
. 29th. — There being at present an armistice between the con
tending parties, a document was pubhshed yesterday, fruits of the
discussion of the allied powers at Tacubaya. It is cahed " las bases
de Tacubaya," and being pubhshed in Mexico by General Almonte,
many expected and hoped that a new pronunciamiento would be the
consequence; but it has been quietly received, and the federalists
welcome it as containing the foundations of federahsm and popularity.
There are thirteen articles, which are as follow : —
By the first — It is the wih of the nation that the supreme powers
established by the constitution of '36 have ceased, excepting the
judicial, which will be limited in its functions to matters purely
judicial, conformably to the existing laws.
By the second — A. junta is to be named, composed of two deputies
from each department, elected by his Excellency the Commander-in-
Chief of the Mexican army, Don Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna, in
order that they may be entirely free to point out the person who is
to hold the executive power provisionally.
By the third — This person is immediately to assume the executive
power, taking an oath in the presence of the junta to act for the
welfare of the nation.
By the fourth — The provisional executive power shall in two
months convoke a new congress, wlfich, with ample powers, shah
engage to reconstitute the nation, as appears most suitable to them.
By the fifth — This congress extraordinary shah re-unite in six
months after it is convened, and shah solely occupy itself in forming
the constitution.
By the sixth — The provisional executive shall answer for its acts
before the first constitutional congress.
By the seventh — The provisional executive shah have all -the
powers necessary for the organization of all the branches of the pubhc
administration. By the eighth — Four ministers shall be named, of foreign and
home relations, _ of pubhc instruction and industry, of treasury, and
of war and marine.
_ By the ninth — Each department is to have two trustworthy indi
viduals to form a council, which shall give judgment in all matters
on which they may be consulted by the executive.
By the tenth— Till this council is named, the junta wih fulfil its
functions.

FEDERALISM. 347
By the eleventh — Tih the repubhc is organized, the authorities in
the departments which have not opposed, and will not oppose the
national will, shah continue.
By the twelfth — The general-in-chief and all the other generals
promise to forget ah the pohtical conduct of mihtary men or citizens
during the present crisis.
By the thirteenth — When three days have passed after the
expiration of the present truce, if the general-in-chief of the govern
ment does not adopt these bases, their accomplishment will be pro
ceeded with; and they declare, in the name of the nation, that this
general, and all the troops who follow him, and all the so-called
authorities which counteract this national will, shall be held respon
sible for all the Mexican blood that may be uselessly shed, and which
shah be upon their heads.
30th. — To the astonishment of all parties, Bustamante and his
generals pronounced yesterday morning for the federal system, and
this morning Bustamante has resigned the presidency. His motives
seem not to be understood, unless a circular, published by General
Almonte, can throw any hght upon them.
" Without making any commentary," he says, speaking of the
document of Tacubaya, " upon tlfis impudent document, which pro
poses to the Mexican nation a military government, and the most
ominous of dictatorships in favour of the false defender of pubhc
hberty, of the most ferocious enemy of every government that has
existed in the country, I hasten to send it to you, that you may
have it pubhshed in this state, where surely it will excite the same
indignation as in an immense majority of the inhabitants of the
capital, who, jealous of the national glory, and decided to _ lose
every thing in order to preserve it, have spontaneously proclaimed
the re-establishment of the federal system, the whole garrison having
followed this impulse. There is no medium between hberty and
tyranny; and the government, relying on the good sense of the
nation, which wih not see with indifference the slavery that is pre
paring for it, puts itself in the hands of the states, resolved to
sacrifice itself on the altars of the country, or to strengthen its hberty
for ever.
"I enclose the renunciation which His Excehency Don Anas
tasio Bustamante makes to the presidency," &c.
3d October.— Though a very democratic crowd cohected, and
federahsm was proclaimed in Mexico, it appears that no confidence
in the government was inspired by this last measure. Some say
that had Bustamante alone .declared for the federal system, and had
sent some effective cavalry to protect the pronunciados ot that
party ah through the country, he might have triumpfied still. lie
that as it may, General Canalizo pronounced for federahsm on the
second of October, but this is not followed up on the part of the
Generals Bustamante and Almonte, while the vice-president,
Hechavama, has retired to his house, blaming Almonte for having

348 HOSTILITIES.
pubhshed an official document without his knowledge. Every
thing is in a state of perfect anarchy and confusion. The leperos
are going about armed, and no one remains in Mexico but those
who are obhged to do so. It is said that in Tacubaya great uneasi
ness prevailed as to the result of this new movement, and Santa
Anna offered an asylum there to the congress and conservative
body, although, by the ultimatum from Tacubaya, pubhshed on
the twenty-eighth, the constitution of '36 was concluded, and of
course these authorities were politically dead.
I had hardly written these words, when the roaring of cannon
announced that hostilities have recommenced.
5th. — For the last few days, we have been listening to the can
non, and even at this distance, the noise reverberating amongst the
hills is tremendous. The sound is horrible ! There is something
appalling, yet humbling, in these manifestations of man's wrath
and man's power, when he seems to usurp his Maker's attributes,
and to mimic his thunder. The divine spark kindled Avithin him,
has taught him how to draw these metals from the earth's bosom;
how to combine these simple materials, so as to produce with them
an effect as terrible as the thunderbolts of heaven. His earthly
passions have prompted him so to wield these instruments of de
struction, as to deface God's image in his fellow men. The power
is so divine — the causes that impel him to use that power are so
paltry ! The intehect that creates these messengers of death is so
near akin to divinity — the motives that put them in action are so
poor, so degrading even to humanity !
On the third, there was a shower of bombs and shells from the
citadel, of which some feh into the palace, and one in our late
residence, the mint. An engagement took place in the Virga; and
though Bustamante 's party were partially victorious, it is said that
neither has much reason to boast of the result. General Espinosa,
an old insurgent, arrived at the village last night, and sent to re
quest some horses from the hacienda, which were sent him with ah
convenient speed, that he might not, according to his usual plan,
come and take them. In exchange for some hah0 dozen farm horses
in good condition, he sent half a dozen lean, wretched-looking
quadrupeds, the bones coming through their skin, skeletons fit for
dissection. News have just arrived to the effect that last night, at three
o'clock, Bustamante suddenly left the city, drawing off ah his troops
from the turrets, and leaving General Orbegoso in the palace, with
one hundred men. It was generahy reported, that he had marched
into the interior, to bring about a federal revolution, but it appears
that he has arrived at Guadalupe, and there taken up his quarters.
A loud cannonading has been kept up since ten o'clock, which keeps
us all idle, looking out for the smoke, and counting the number of
discharges. 6th. — A messenger has brought the intelligence that there had

CAPITULATION. 349
been more noise and smoke than slaughter; the cannons being
planted at such distances, that it was impossible they could do much
execution. Numerous bulletins are distributed; some violently in
favour of Bustamante and federahsm, ful-l of abuse and dread of
Santa Anna ; others lauding that general to the skies, as the saviour
of his country. The allied forces being in numbers double those
of Bustamante, there is httle doubt of the result.
7th. — A capitulation. Santa Anna is triumphant. He made his
solemn entry into Mexico last evening, Generals Valencia and
Canahzo being at the head of the united forces. Not a sohtary viva
was heard as they passed along the streets ; nor afterwards, during
his speech in congress. Te Deum was sung this morning in the
cathedral, the archbishop in person receiving the new president.
We have just returned from Mexico, where we went in search of
apartments, and with great difficulty have found rooms in the hotel
of the Calle Vergara; but we shah remain here a day or two
longer. There is no great difference in the general appearance of
the city, except that the shops are all reopened, and that most of
the windows are broken. Immediately after the morning cere
mony, Santa Anna returned to the archbishop's palace at Tacubaya,
which residence he prefers to the president's palace in Mexico. His
return there, after his triumphant entry into the capital, was very
much en Roi — a retinue of splendid coaches with fine horses, going
at fuh speed; the general's carriage drawn by four beautiful white
horses — (belonging to Don F  M  ; the very same that
were sent to bring us into Mexico) brilfiant aides-de-camp, and an
immense escort of cavalry. Thus concludes the Revolution of
1842, though not its effects.
The new ministry, up to this date, are Sefior Gomez Pedraza for
Foreign and Home Relations ; Castillo, un petit avocat from Guada
lajara, said to be a furious federalist and Latin scholar, for Pubhc
Instruction; General Tomel for War and Marine; and Sefior Dufoo
for the Treasury. Valencia proposed Paredes for the War Depart
ment; but he dechned, saying, "No, no, General— I understand
you very weh. You want to draw me off from my division."
Those who know Bustamante best, even those who_ most blame
him for indecision and want of energy, agree in one point; that the
true motives of his conduct are to be found in his constant and
earnest desire to spare human hfe.

350

LETTER THE FORTY-SIXTH.
Santa Monica— Solidity— Old Paintings — Anachronism — Babies and Nurses
from the Cuna — Society — Funds — Plan — Indian Nurses — Carmelite Convent
— Midnight Warning — Old Villages and Churches — Indian Bath — San Mateo
— The Lecheria — Fertility — Nolino Viejo — Dulness — Religious Exercises —
Return to Mexico — Mexican Hotel — New Generals — Disturbances — General
Bustamante — Inconvenience — Abuses in the name of Liberty — Verses —
Independence celebrated. 8th.
The Revolution has lasted upwards of thirty-five days, and during
that time, though I have written of httle else, we have been taking
many rides in the environs of this hacienda, some of which were
very interesting. We are also making the most of our last few days
of Mexican country hfe. On Thursday we went on horseback with
a large party to visit the mill of Santa M6nica, an immense hacienda,
which tradition, I know not with what truth, supposes to have been
in former days the property of Dofia Marina ; a gift to her from
Cortes. At all events, at a later period it belonged to the Augustine
monks, then to a Mexican family, who lost their fortune from neglect
or extravagance. It was bought by the present proprietor for a
comparatively trifling sum, and produces him an annual rent of
thirty-five thousand dollars upon an average. The house is colossal,
and not more than one-third of it occupied. The granaries, of solid
masonry, contain fourteen thousand loads of corn— they were built
about two hundred and fifty years ago. From all the neighbouring
haciendas, iand even from many distant estates, the corn is sent to
this mill, and is here ground, deposited, and sold on account of the
owner, a certain portion deducted for the proprietor of Santa Mdnica.
It seems strange that they should have no wind-mihs here, in a
country colonized by Spain, where, according to Cervantes, they
were common enough. The house is in a commanding situation,
and the views of the mountains, especially from the upper windows,
are very grand. In some of the old, unoccupied apartments, are some
good copies of old paintings, the copies themselves of ancient date.
There is the Angel announcing to Elizabeth the birth of Saint
John; a Holy Family, from Murillo; the destruction of Sodom and
Gomorrah, which is one of the best; particularly the figures in the
foreground, of Lot and his family. Lot's wife stands in the distance,
a graceful figure just crystallized, her head turned in the direction of
the doomed city. I looked into every dark corner, in hopes of
finding some old daub representing Dofia Marina, but without suc
cess. There is the strangest contrast possible between these half-
abandoned palaces, and their actual proprietors. We had beautiful

NURSES AND BABIES. 351
riding horses belonging to the hacienda, and enjoyed every thing
but the exceeding heat of the sun, as we galloped home about one
o'clock. . . .
As a specimen of rather a remarkable anachronism, we were told
that a justice in the vihage of Tlanapantla, speaking the other day of
General Bustamante, said, " Poor man — he is persecuted by ah
parties, just as Jesus Christ was by the Jansenists, the Sadducees, and
the Holy Fathers of the Church !" What a curious olla podrida the
poor man's brain must be !
In the midst of the revolution, we were amused by a very peaceful
sight — all the nurses belonging to the Cuna, or Foundling Hospital,
coming from the different villages to receive their monthly wages.
Amongst the many charitable institutions in Mexico, there appears
to me (in spite of the many prejudices existing against such institu
tions), none more useful than this. These otherwise unfortunate
children, the offspring of abject poverty or guilt, are left at the gate
of the establishment, where they are received without any questions
being asked; and from that moment, they are protected and cared
for, by the best and noblest famihes in the country. The members
of the society consist of the first persons in Mexico, male and female.
The men furnish the money; the women give their time and atten
tion. There is no fixed number of members, and amongst them are
the ladies in whose house we now hve. The President is the Dow
ager Marquesa de Vivanco. When the child has beenabout a month
in the Cuna, it is sent, with an Indian nurse, to one of the villages
near Mexico. If sick or feeble, it remains in the house, under the
more immediate inspection of the society. These nurses have a
fiadora, a responsible person, who hves in the village, and answers
for their good conduct. Each nurse is paid four dollars per month,
a sufficient sum to induce any poor Indian, with a family, to add one
to her stock. Each lady of the society has a certain number under
her pecuhar care, and gives their clothes, which are poor enough,
but according to the village fashion. The child thus put out to
nurse, is brought back to the Cuna when weaned, and remains under
the charge of the society for hfe; but of the hundreds and tens of
hundreds that have passed through their hands, scarcely one has been
left to grow up in the Cuna. They are constantly adopted by
respectable persons, who, according to their inclination or abilities,
bring them up either as favoured servants, or as their own children;
and the condition of a " huerfano," an orphan, as a child from the
hospital is always called, is perfectly upon a level with that of the
most petted child of the house. The nurses in the Cuna axe paid
eight dollars per month. . ,
Upwards of a hundred nurses and babies arrived on Sunday,
taking up their station on the grass, under the shade of a large asfi-
tree hi the courtyard. The nurses are invariably bronze; the babies
generally dark, though there was a sprinkhng of fair Enghsh or
German faces amongst them, with blue eyes and blonde hair, appa-

352 MIDNIGHT WARNING.
rently not the growth of Mexican land. Great attention to cleanli
ness cannot be hoped for from this class ; but the babies looked
healthy and contented. Each nurse had to present a paper wlfich
had been given her for that purpose, containing her own name, the
name of the child, and that of the lady under whose particular charge
she was. Such as — " Maria Josef a — baby Juanita de los Santos —
belonging to the Sefiora Dona Matilde F  , given on such a day
to the charge of Maria Josefa." Constantly the nurse had lost this
paper, and impossible for her to remember more than her own name;
as to who gave her the baby, or when she got it, was entirely beyond
her powers of calculation. However, then stept forward the fiadora
Dofia Tomasa, a sensible looking vihage dame, grave and important
as became her situation, and gave an account of the nurse and the
baby, which being satisfactory, the copper was swept into the nurse's
lap, and she and her baby went away contented. It was pleasant to
see the kindness of the ladies to these poor women ; how they praised
the care that had been taken of the babies ; admired the strong and
healthy ones, which indeed nearly all were ; took an interest in those
who looked paler, or less robust ; and how fond and proud the nurses
were of their charges; and how httle of a hired, mercenary, hospital
feeling existed among them all. . . .
A judge in the Arillage, who comes here frequently, a pleasant and
weh-informed man, amused us this evening by recounting to us how
he had once formed a determination to become a monk, through
sudden fear. Being sent by government to Toluca, some years ago,
to inquire into the private pohtical conduct of a Yorkino, he found
that his only means of remaining there unsuspected, and also of ob
taining information, was to lodge in the convent of the Carmehte
friars. The padres accommodated him with a cell, and assisted him
very efficaciously in his researches. But the first night, being alone
in his ceh, the convent large and dreary, and the wind howling lugu
briously over the plains, he was awakened at night by a deep, se
pulchral voice, apparently close at his ear, tolling forth these words:
" Hermanos, en el sepulcro acaba,
Todo lo que el mundo alaba !"
" My brothers, all must finish in the tomb !
Of all that men extol, this is the doom."
Exceedingly startled, he sprang up, and opened the door of his cell.
A dim lamp faintly ihuminated the long vaulted galleries, and the
monks, hke shadows, were ghding to midnight prayer. In the
dreariness of the night, with the solemn words sounding in his ears
hke a warning knell, he came to the satisfactory conclusion that ah
was vanity, and to the determination that the very next day he would
retire from the world, join this holy brotherhood, and bind himseh
to be a Carmelite friar for life. The day brought counsel, the cheer
ful sunbeams dispelled the gloom, even within the old convent, and
his scruples of conscience melted away.
There are old villages and old churches in this neighbourhood that

THE LECHERIA. 353
would dehght an antiquary. In the churchyard of the vihage of San
Andres is the most beautiful weeping ash I ever saw. We took
shelter from, the sun yesterday under its gigantic shadow, and lay
there as under a green vault. We saw to-day, near another sohtary
old church, one of the Indian oven-baths, the temezcallis, built of
bricks, in which there is neither alteration nor improvement since
theh first invention, heaven alone knows in what century.
_9th. — We rode last evening to another estate belonging to this fa
mily, called San Mateo, one of the prettiest places on a small scale
we have seen here. The road, or rather path, led us through fields,
covered with the greatest profusion of bright yehow sunflowers and
scarlet dahhas, so tall that they came up to our horses' ears. The
house is built in the cottage style (the first specimen of that style we
have seen here), with a piazza in front, large trees shading it, and a
beautiful view from the height on which it stands. It has rather an
Enghsh than a Spanish look. No one hves there but the agent and
his wife — and a fierce dog.
11th. — This morning we rose at five, mounted our horses, and ac
companied by Sefior E  , together with the administrador and
the old gardener, set off to take our last long ride from San Xavier;
for this evening we return to Mexico. The morning was fine and
fresh, the very morning for a gahop, and the country looked beauti
ful. We rode first to the Lecheria, where Generals Bustamante and
Paredes had their last eventful conference, having passed on our way
various old churches and vihages, and another hacienda also belong
ing to this family, whose estates seem countless. The Lecheria is
a large unoccupied house, or occupied only by the administrador
and ms family. It is a fine building, and its court-yard within is
fihed with flowers ; but, having neither garden nor trees near it, seems
rather lonely ; and must have been startled to find itself the rendez
vous of contending chieftains. It is surrounded by fertile and pro
fitable fields of corn and maize. We staid but a short time in the
house, and having observed with due respect the chamber where the
generals conferred together, remounted our horses and rode on. I
have no doubt, by the way, that their meeting was the most amicable
imaginable. I never saw a country where opponent parties bear
so little real ill-will to each other. It ah seems to evaporate in words.
I do not beheve that there is any real bad feehng subsisting at this
moment, even between the two rival generals, Bustamante and Santa
Anna. Santa Anna usurped the presidency, partly because he
wanted it, and partly because if he had not, some one else would ;
but I am convinced that if they met by chance in a drawing-room,
they would give each other as cordial an abrazo (embrace), Mexican
fashion, as if nothing had happened.
Our road led us through a beautiful tract of country, ah belonging
to the Lecheria, through pathways that skirted the fields, where the
plough had newly turned up the richest possible soil, and which were
bordered by wild flowers and shady trees. For miles our path lay

354 MOLINO VIEJO.
through a thick carpeting of the most beautiful wild flowers ima
ginable ; bright scarlet dahlias, gaudy sunflowers, together with pur
ple and lilac, and pale straw-coloured blossoms, to all which the gar
dener gave but the general name of mirasoles (sunflowers). The
purple convolvulus threw its creeping branches on the ground, or
along whatever it could embrace ; while all these bright flowers,
some growing to a great height, seemed, as we rode by them, to be
flaunting past us in their gay colours, hke peasants in their holiday
dresses. The ground also was enamehed with a httle low inquisitive-
looking blossom, bright yellow, with a peeping brown eye ; and the
whole, besides forming the gayest assemblage of colours and groups,
gave to the air a dehcious fragrance.
But at last we left these fertile grounds, and began to ascend the
hills, part of which afford pasture for the flocks, till, stih higher up,
they become perfectly arid and stony. Here the whole landscape
looks bleak and dreary, excepting that the eye can rest upon the dis
tant mountains, of a beautiful blue, hke a peep of the promised land
from Mount Nebo. After having rode four leagues, the latter part
over this sterile ground, affording but an insecure footing for our
horses, we descried, low down in a valley, an old sad-looking build
ing, with a ruined mih and some trees. This was the object of our
ride ; the " molino viejo" (old mill), another hacienda belonging to
these rich lady proprietors ; and profitable on account of the fine pas
ture wlfich some of the surrounding hills afford. Nothing could look
more sohtary. Magdalene might have left her desert, and ended her
days there, without materiahy bettering her situation. The only
sign of hfe is a stream that runs round a very productive smah or
chard in front of the house, while on a hill behind are a few maguey
plants, and on the mirador, in front of the house, some creepers have
been trained with a good deal of taste: There are bleak hills in front
— hills with a scanty herbage behind it, and everywhere a stillness
that makes itself felt ; while, strange circumstance in this country !
there is not even a church within a league and a half. There has
been a chapel in the house, but the gilded paintings are falling from
the walls— the altar is broken, and the floor covered with dried com.
The agent's wife, who sits here all alone, must have time to collect
her scattered thoughts, and plenty of opportunity for reflection and
self-examination. Certain it is, she gave us a very good breakfast,
which we attacked like famished pilgrims ; and shortly after took
our leave.
The heat on the shadeless hills had now become intense. It is
only on such occasions that one can fully appreciate the sufferings of
Regulus. We returned by the carriage-road, a track between two
hills, composed of ruts and stones, and large holes. On the most
barren parts of these hills, there springs a tree which the Indians
call guisachel; it resembles the savine, and produces a berry of
which ink is made. The road was bordered by bushes, covered
with white blossoms, very fragrant. We gahoped as fast as our

THE EJERCICIOS. 355
horses would carry us, to escape from the sun ; and passed a pretty
village on the high road, which is a fine broad causeway in good
repair, leading to Guanaxuato. We also passed San Mateo, and
then rode over the fields fast home, where we arrived, lookino- like
broiled potatoes 
We had a conversation with  this morning, on the subject
of the " ejercicios," certain religious exercises, to which, in Mexico
men as well as women annually devote a certain number of days,
during which they retire from the world to a rehgious house or con
vent, set apart for that purpose, of which some receive male and
other female devotees. Here they fast and pray and receive re
hgious instruction, and meditate upon rehgious subjects during the
period of their retreat. A respectable merchant, who, in compli
ance with this custom, lately retired for a few days to one of these
rehgious estabhshments, wrote, on entering there, to his head clerk,
a young man to whom he was much attached, informing him that
he had a presentiment that he would not leave the convent ahve,
but would die by the time his devotional exercises were completed ;
giving him some good advice as to his future conduct, together
with his last instructions as to his own affairs. He ended with
these words : " hasta la eternidad !" until eternity ! The letter pro
duced a strong effect on the mind of the young man; but stih more,
when the merchant died at the end of a few days, as he had pre
dicted, and was carried from the convent to his grave.
Mexico, Calle Vergara, I2th.
We reached Mexico last evening, and took up our quarters in an
inn or hotel kept by an English woman, and tolerably clean, though
of course not very agreeable. A number of pronunciado officers
are also here — amongst others, General  , who I hope will be
obhged to go soon, that we may have his parlour; a mysterious
Enghsh couple ; a wounded Colonel, an old gentleman, a fixture in
the house, &c. There is a table d'hote, but I believe no ladies dine
there. Invitations to take up our quarters in private houses have
been pressed upon us with a kindness and cordiality difficult to
resist 
Though pohtics are the only topic of interest at present, I think
you will care little for having an account of the Junta of Repre
sentatives, or of the elections, with their chiefly mihtary members.
Considering by whom the members are chosen, and the object for
which they are elected, the result of their deliberations is, as you
may suppose, pretty well known beforehand. Military power is
strengthened by every act, and all this power is vested in the
commanders-in-chief. New batches of generals are made, in order
to reward the late distinguished services of the officers, and colonels
by hundreds. Eleven generals were created in the division of Pa
redes alone. Money has been given to the troops in the palace,
with orders to purchase new uniforms, which it is said wih be very
2 B

356 PERSONAL INCONVENIENCE.
brilliant. There appears, generally speaking, a good deal of half-
smothered discontent, and it is whispered that even the revolu
tionary bankers are hah repentant and look gloomy.- The only
opposition paper is " Un Periodico Mas;" one more periodical — the
others are all ministerial.
In the south there has been some trouble with Generals Bravo
and Alvarez, who wish that part of the country to govern itseh
until the meeting of congress. There was some talk of putting
Valencia at the head of the troops which are destined to march
against them, but there are now negociations pending, and it is
supposed there vrih be some agreement made without coining to
bloodshed. It is said that orders were sent to General Almonte to
leave the republic, and that he answered the despatch with firmness,
refusing to acknowledge the authority of Santa Anna. General
Bustamante, who is now in Guadalupe, intends to leave the scene
of his disasters within a few months. C  n paid him a visit
lately, and though scarcely recovered from his fatigues both of body
and mind, he appears cheerful and resigned, and with ah the tran
quilhty which can be inspired only by a good conscience, and the
conviction of having done his duty to the best of his abilities 
As for us personally, tlfis revolution has been the most incon
venient revolution that ever took place ; doing us ah manner of mis
chief; stopping the sale of our furniture, throwing our affairs into
confusion ; overthrowing ah our plans, and probably delaying ova-
departure until December or January. But in these cases, every
one must suffer more or less ; and meanwhile, we are surrounded by
friends and by friendly attentions. It wih be impossible for us to
leave Mexico without regret. It requires nothing but a settled
government to make it_ one of the first countries in the world.
Santa Anna has much in his power. Reste a savoir how he will
use that power. Perhaps in these last years of tranquilhty, which
he has spent on his estate, he may have meditated to some pur
pose. It is singular how, in trying to avoid small evils, we plunge into
unknown gulfs of misery; and how httle we reflect that it might

be wiser to

" Bear those ills we have,
Than fly to others that we know not of."

Every one has heard of the abuses that produced the first revolu
tion m Mexico— of the great inequality of riches, of the degradation
of the Indians, of the high prices of foreign goods, of the Inquisi
tion, of the ignorance of the people, the bad state of the colleges, the
difficulty of obtaining justice, the influence of the clergy, and the
ignorance in which the Mexican youth were purposely kept Which
of these evils has been remedied ? Foreign goods are cheaper, and
the Inquisition is not; but this last unchristian institution had surely
graduahy lost its power before the days of the last viceroy ?_ But
in the sacred name of Liberty, every abuse can be tolerated

VERSES. . 327
" O fetal name, misleader of mankind,
Phantom, too radiant and too much adored'
a? u Star' whose beams are briSht to blind
Although their more benignant influence poured
the light of glory on the Switzer's sword,
And hallowed Washington's immortal name.
¦Liberty t Thou when absent how deplored,
And when received, how wasted, till thy name
brows tarnished; shall mankind, ne'er cease to work thee shame ?
" Not from the blood in fiercest battle shed,
Nor deeds heroical as arm can do,
Is the true strength of manly freedom bred,
Restraining tyranny and license too,
The madness of the many and the few.
Land, whose new beauties I behold revealed,
Is this not true, and bitter as 'tis true ?
The ruined fane, the desolated field,
The ruffian-haunted road, a solemn answer yield.
" Where look the loftiest Cordilleras down
From summits hoary with eternal snow
On Montezuma's venerable town
And storied vale, and Lake of Mexico ,
These thoughts the shade of melancholy throw
On all that else were fair, and gay, and grand
As nature in her glory can bestow.
For never yet, though liberal her hand,
So variously hath she adorned, enriched one land.
" What boots it that from where the level deep
Basks in the tropic sun's o'erpow'ring light
To where yon mountains lift their wintry steep,
All climes, all seasons in one land unite?
What boots it that her buried caves are bright
With wealth untold of gold or silver ore?
While, checked by anarchy's perpetual blight,
Industry trembles 'mid her hard-earned store,
While rapine riots near in riches stained with gore ?
" O sage regenerators of mankind !
Patriots of nimble tongue and systems crude !
How many regal tyrannies combined,
So many fields of massacre have strewed
As you, and your attendant cut-throat brood ?
Man works no miracles ; long toil, long thought,
Joined to experience, may achieve much good,
But to create new systems out of nought,
Is fit for Him alone, the universe who wrought.
" But what hath such an hour of such a day
To do with human crimes, or earthly gloom ?
Far wiser to enjoy while yet we may,
The mock-bird's song, the orange flower's perfume,
The freshness that the sparkling fountain showers.
Let nations reach their glory or their doom,
Spring will return to dress yon orange bowers,
And flowers will still bloom on, and bards will sing of flowers."
2 B 2

358 INDEPENDENCE CELEBRATED.
21st. — In pursuance of the last-mentioned advice, we have been
breakfasting to-day at Tacubaya, with the  minister and his
family, and enjoying ourselves there in Madame  's garden. We
have also just returned from the Marquesa de  's, where we had
a pleasant evening, and met General Paredes, whom I like very
much ; a real soldier, thin, plain, blunt, and all hacked with wounds.
23d. — C  n has been dining at the  minister's, where he
met all the great actors in the present drama, and had an agreeable
party. We are now thinking of making our escape from this hotel,
and of taking ahorseback journey into Michoacan, which shah oc
cupy a month or six weeks. Meantime I am visiting, with the
Senorita  , every hospital, jail, college and madhouse in Mexico !
26th. — To-day they are celebrating their independence. Ah the
bells in all the churches, beginning with the cathedral, are peahng —
cannon firing — rockets rushing up into the air — Santa Anna in the
Alameda, speechifying — troops galloping — httle boys running — Te
Deum chanting — crowds of men and women jostling each other —
the streets covered with carriages, the balconies covered with people
— the Paseo expected to be crowded. I have escaped to a quiet
room, where I am trying to find time to make up my letters before the
packet goes. I conclude this just as the dictator, with his brilliant
staff, has driven off to Tacubaya.

LETTER THE FORTY-SEVENTH.
Opera — Santa Anna and his Suite — His Appearance — Belisario — Solitary
" Viva .'" — Brilliant House— Military Dictatorship — San Juan de D'tos — Hos
pital de Jesus — Cuna — Old Woman and Baby — Different Apartments —
Acordada — Junta — Female Prisoners — Chief Crime — Travaux Forces —
Children — Male Prisoners — Forcats— Soldiers Gambling — Chapel— Confes
sional — Insane Hospital — Frenchmen — Different Kinds of Insanity— Kitchen
— Dinner — Insane Monk — " Black Chamber "—Soldiers— College— Santa
Anna's Leg— Projects— All Saints— Sefiora P  a— Leave-takings. 4th November.
A GREAT funcion was given in the opera in honour of his excel
lency. The theatre was most brilliantly ihuminated with Avax fights.
Two principal boxes Avere thrown into one for the president and his
suite, and lined with crimson and gold, with draperies of the same.
The staircase leading to the second tier where tlfis box Avas, was
lighted by and lined all the way up with rows of footmen in crimson

SANTA ANNA. 359
and gold livery. A crowd of gentlemen stood waiting in the lobby
for the arrival of the hero of the fete. He came at last in regal
state, carriages and outriders at full gallop ; himself, staff and suite,
in splendid uniform. As he entered, Sefior Roca presented him
with a libretto of the opera, bound in red and gold. We met the
great man en face, and he stopped, and gave us a cordial recognition.
Two years have made httle change in him in appearance. He retains
the same interesting, resigned, and rather melancholy expression ; the
same quiet voice, and grave but agreeable manner ; and surrounded.
by pompous officers, he alone looked quiet, gentlemanly, and high
bred. The theatre was crowded to suffocation ; boxes, pit, and gal
leries. There was no applause as he entered. One sohtary voice in
the pit said " Viva Santa Anna !" but it seemed checked by a slight
movement of disapprobation, scarcely amounting to a murmur. The
opera was Belisarius ; considered a propos to the occasion, and was
really beautifully montee ; the dresses new and superb — the decora
tions handsome. They brought in real horses, and Belisarius entered
in a triumphal chariot, drawn by white steeds ; but for this the stage
is infinitely too small, and the horses plunged and pranced so de
sperately, thatBelisarius wisely jumped out and finished his aria on
foot. The two prima donnas acted together — the wife and daughter
of the hero — both about the same age, and dressed very well. But
the Castellan's voice is not suited to the opera, and the music, beau
tiful as it is, was the least effective part of the affair. The generals,
in their scarlet and gold uniforms, sat hke peacocks surrounding
Santa Anna, who looked modest and retiring, and as if quite unac
customed to the public gaze ! The boxes were very brilliant — all the
diamonds taken out for the occasion. His Excellency is by no means
indifferent to beauty — tout au contraire ; yet I dare say his thoughts
were this night of things more warlike and less fair.
Let all this end as it may, let them give every thing whatever
name is most popular, the government is now a mihtary dictator
ship. Sefior  calls this revolution " the apotheosis of egotism
transformed into virtue ;" and it must be confessed, that in most of
the actors, it has been a mere calculation of personal interests.
10th.— We went, some days ago, with our friends from San
Xavier, to visit the hospital of San Juan de Dios, at San Cosme.
We found that, being at present under repair, it has but two occu
pants, old women— who keep each other melancholy company. Lhe
building is very spacious and handsome; erected, of course, during
Spanish dominion, and extremely clean— an observation worthy of
note, when it occurs in Mexican pubhc buildings. There is a large
hall, divided by square pillars, with a light and cheerful aspect,
where the patients sleep; and a separate apartment for women, lhe
rooms are all so clean, airy, and cheerful, that one forgets it is an
hospital. In this respect, the style of building here is superior to all
others, with large airy courtyards and fountains, long galleries and
immense apartments, with every Avindow open. There is no part

360 HOSPITAL DE JESUS.
of Europe where, ah the year round, invahds can enjoy such
advantages ; but, also, there are few parts of Europe where the
chmate would permit them to do so.
The fohowing day we visited another hospital; that known _ as
the Hospital de Jesus — hahowed ground; for here the mortal remains
of Cortes were deposited. And, though rescued from desecration
by a distinguished individual, during a popular tumult, so that they
no longer repose in the sanctuary of the chapel, there stih exists,
enshrined here, that over which time and revolutions have no
power — his" memory.
The establishment, as an hospital, is much finer, and the building
infinitely handsomer than the other. The director, a physician, led
us first into his own apartments, as the patients were dining, and
afterwards showed us through the whole establishment. The first
large hah, into which we were shown, is almost entirely occupied by
soldiers, who had been wounded during the pronunciamiento. One
had lost an arm, another a leg, and they looked sad and haggard
enough, though they seemed perfectly weh attended to, and, I dare
say, did any thing but bless the revolutions that brought them to
that state, and with which they had nothing to do ; for your Mexi
can soldier wih he down on his mat at night, a loyal man, and will
waken in the morning and find himseh a pronunciado. Each one
had a separate room, or at least a compartment divided by curtains
from the next ; and in each was a bed, a chair, and a smah table ;
this on one side of the long hah. The other was occupied by excel
lent hot and cold baths. We then visited the women's apartment,
which is on a similar plan. Amongst the patients is an unfortunate
child of eight years old, who in the pronunciamiento had been acci
dentally struck by a bullet, which entered her left temple and came
out below the right eye, leaving her alive. The bah was extracted,
and a portion of the brain came out at the wound. She is left
blind, or nearly so, haAfing but a faint ghrnmering of light. They
say she wih probably hve, which seems impossible. She looks hke
a galvanized corpse — yet must have been a good-looking child.
Notwithstanding the nature of her wound, her reason has not gone,
and as she sat upright in her httle bed, with her head bandaged, and
her fixed and sightless eyes, she answered meekly and readily to all
the questions we put to her. Poor httle thing ! she was shocking
to look at ; one of the many innocent beings whose hves are to be
rendered sad and joyless by this revolution. The doctor seemed
very kind to her.
A curious accident happened to Sefior  in tlfis last pronuncia
miento. He had aheady lost his leg in the first one ; and was limp
ing along the street, when he was struck by a ball. He was able to
reach his house, and cahed to his wife, to tell her what had occurred.
Her first impulse was to cah for a doctor, when he said to her very
coolly, " Not this time, — a carpenter wih do better." He had been
shot in his wooden leg !

THE CUNA. 361
At the end of the women's apartment in this hospital, there is a
smah chapel where mass is said to the invahds. It is only remark
able as having over the altar an image of the Purisima, brought
from Spain by Cortes. We went all through the building, even to
the_ enclosure on the azotea, where dead bodies are dissected; and on
which azotea was a quantity of wool, taken from the mattresses of
those who die in the hospital, and which is left in the sun dming a
certain period before it is permitted to be used again. The Avhole
establishment struck us as being healthy, cleanly, and well-con
ducted. We then visited the fine old church, which has but one
broad aisle with a handsome altar, and near it is the smah monu
ment, under which the bones of the conqueror were placed. The
sacristy of the church is remarkable for its ceiling, composed of the
most intricately and beautifully carved mahogany; a work of im
mense labour and taste, after the Gothic style. The divisions of the
compartments are painted blue and ornamented with gilding. In
the centre of the apartment is an immense circular table, formed of
one piece of mahogany ; for which large sums have been refused.
We went in the evening to visit the Cuna, which is not a fine
building, but a large, healthy, airy house. At the door, where
there are a porter and his wife, the babies are now given in. For
merly they were put in at the reja, at the window of the porter's
lodge ; but this had to be given up, in consequence of the tricks
played by boys or idle persons, who put in dogs, cats, or dead ani
mals. As we were going up stairs, we heard an old woman singing
a cheerful ditty in an awfully cracked Voice, and as we got a fuh view
of her before she could see us, we saw a clean, old body sitting,
sewing and singing, while a baby rolhng on the floor in a state of
perfect ecstasy, was keeping up a sort of crowing duet with her.
She seemed delighted to see these ladies, who belong to the Junta,
and led us into a large hall where a score of nurses and babies were
performing a symphony of singing, hushing, crying, luhabyrng,
and other nursery music. Ah along the room were httle green
painted beds, and both nurses and babies looked clean and healthy.
The  s knew every baby and nurse and directress by name.
Some of the babies were remarkably pretty, and when we had
admired them sufficiently, we were taken into the next hah, occu
pied by httle girls of two, three, and four years old. They were ah
seated on httle mats at the foot of their smah green beds; a regiment
of the finest and healthiest children possible ; a directress m the
room sewing. At our entrance, they all jumped up simultaneously,
and surrounded us Avith the noisiest expressions of dehght. One
told me in a confidential whisper, that "Manuehta had thumped
her own head, and had a pain in it;" but I could not see that
Manuehta seemed to be suffering any acute agomes, for she made
more noise than any of them. One httle girl sidled up to me, and
said in a most insinuating voice, " Me llevas tu?" " Wih you take
me away with you ?"— for even at this early age they begm to have

362 THE ACORDADA.
a glimmering idea that those whom the ladies choose from amongst
them are peculiarly favoured. We staid some time with them, and
admired their healthy, happy, and Avell-fod appearance; and then
proceeded to the apartment of the boys; ah httle things of the same
age, sitting ranged in a row like senators in congress, and, strange
to say, much quieter and graver than the female babies; but this
must have been from shyness, for before we came away, we saw
them romping in great style. The directresses seem good respect
able Avomen, and kind to the children, who, as I mentioned before,
are almost all taken away and brought up by rich people, before they
have time to know that there is any thing pecuhar or unfortunate in
their situation. After this adoption, they are completely on a level
with the other children of the family — an equal portion is left them,
and although their condition is never made a secret of, they fre
quently marry as well as their adopted brothers and sisters.
¦ Those who are opposed to this institution, are so on the plea that
it encourages and facilitates vice. That the number of children in
the hospital is a proof that much vice and much poverty do exist, there
is no doubt; that by enabhng the vicious to conceal their guilt, or by
reheving the poor from their burthen, it encourages either vice or
idleness, is scarcely probable. But even were it so, the certain
benefits are so immense, when laid in the balance with the possible
evils, that they cannot be put in competition. The mother who
leaves her child at the Cuna, would she not abandon it to a worse
fate, if this institution did not exist? If she does so to conceal her
disgrace, is it not seen that a woman wih stop at no cruelty, to
obtain this end? as exposure of her infant, even murder? and that,
strong as maternal love is, the dread of the world's scorn has
conquered it? If poverty be the cause, surely the misery must be
great indeed, which induces the poorest beggar or the most destitute
of the Indian women (whose love for their children amounts to
a passion) to part with her child ; and though it is suspected that
the mother who has left her infant at the Cuna, has occasionahy
got herself hired as a nurse, that she may have the pleasure of
bringing it up, it seems to me that no great evil can arise, even
from that.
These orphans are thus rescued from the contamination of vice,
from poverty, perhaps from the depths of depravity; perhaps their
very fives are saved, and great sin prevented. Hundreds of inno
cent children are thus placed under the care of the first and best
ladies in the country, and brought up to be worthy members of
society. Another day we devoted to visiting a different and more painful
scene— the Acordada, or public jail; a great sohd building, spacious,
and well ventilated. For tlfis also there is a Junta, or society of
ladies of the first families, who devote themselves to teaching the
female malefactors. It is painful and almost startling to see the
first ladies in Mexico famiharly conversing with and embracing

THE ACORDADA. 363
women who have been guilty of the most atrocious crimes; espe
cially of murdering their husbands; Avhich is the chief crime of the
female prisoners. There are no bad faces amongst them ; and pro
bably not . one who has committed a premeditated crime. A mo
ment of jealousy during intoxication, violent passions without any
curb, suddenly aroused and as suddenly extinguished, have led to
these frightful results. We Avere first shown into a large and tole
rably clean apartment, where were the female prisoners who are
kept apart as being of a more decent family than the rest. Some
were lying on the floor, others working — some Avere well dressed,
others dirty and slovenly. Few looked sad ; most appeared careless
and happy, and none seemed ashamed. Amongst them were
some of the handsomest faces I have seen in Mexico. One good-
looking common woman, with a most joyous and benevolent coun
tenance, and lame, came up to salute the ladies. I inquired what she
had done. " Murdered her husband, and buried him under the brick
floor ! " Shade of LaArater ! It is some comfort to hear that their hus
bands Avere generally such brutes, they deserved httle better ! Amongst
others confined here is the wife, or rather the widoAV, of a governor
of Mexico, who made away with her husband. We did not see her,
and they say she generally keeps out of the Avay when strangers come.
One very pretty and coquettish little woman, with a most intellectual
face, and very superior-looking, being in fact a relation of Count
 's, is in jail on suspicion of having poisoned her lover. A beau
tiful young creature, extremely hke Mrs.  , of Boston, was among
the prisoners. I did not hear Avhat her crime was. We were attended
by a woman who has the title of Presidenta, and who, after some
years of good conduct, has now the charge of her fellow-prisoners —
but she also murdered her husband ! We went up stairs, accom
panied by various of these distinguished criminals, to the room look
ing down upon the chapel, in which room the ladies give them^ in
struction in reading, and in the Christian doctrine. With the time
which they devote to these charitable offices, together with
their numerous devotional exercises, and the care which their houses.
and families require, it cannot be said that the hfe of a Mexican
sefiora is an idle one ; nor. in such cases, can it be considered a
useless one.
We then descended to the lower regions, where, in a great, damp,
vaulted gallery, hundreds of unfortunate women of the lowest class,
were occupied in travaux forces— riot indeed of a very hard descrip
tion. These were employed in baking tortillas for the prisoners.
Dirty, ragged, and miserable-looking creatures there were in these
dismal vaults, which looked hke purgatory, and smelt like — Heaven
knows what ! But, as I have frequently had occasion to observe m
Mexico, the sense of smell is a doubtful blessing. _ Another large
hah near this, which the prisoners were employed in cleaning and
r, has at least fresh air, opening on one side into a court,where

364 SAN HIPoLITO.
poor httle children, the saddest sight there, were running about — the
children of the prisoners.
Leaving the side of the building devoted to the women, we passed
on to another gallery, looking down upon an immense paved court
with a fountain, where were several hundreds of male prisoners, un
fortunately cohected together without any reference to the nature of
their crime ; the midnight murderer with the purloiner of a pocket-
handkerchief; the branded felon with the man guilty of some poh
tical offence; the debtor with the false coiner; so that many a young
and thoughtless individual whom a trifling fault, the result of igno*
ranee or of unformed principles, has brought hither, must leave this
place wholly contaminated and hardened by bad example and vicious
conversation. Here there were indeed some ferocious, hardened-
looking ruffians — but there were many mild, good-humoured faces;
and I could see neither sadness nor a trace of shame on any counte
nance; indeed they ah seemed much amused by seeing so many
ladies. Some were stretched full-length on the ground, doing no
thing ; others were making rolls for hats, of different coloured beads,
such as they wear here, or httle baskets for sale ; whilst others were
walking about alone, or conversing in groups. This is the first prison
I ever visited, therefore I can compare it with no other; but the
system must be wrong which makes no distinctions between different
degrees of crime. These men are the same forgats whom we daily
see in chains, watering the Alameda or Paseo, or mending the streets.
Several hundreds of prisoners escaped from the Acordada in the time
of the pronunciamiento — probably the worst amongst them — yet
half the city appears to be here now. We were shown the row of
cells for criminals whom it is necessary to keep in sohtary confine
ment, on account of disorderly behaviour — also the apartments of the
directors. In passing down stairs, we came upon a group of dirty-looking
soldiers, busily engaged in playing at cards. The alcalde, who was
showing us through the jail, dispersed them ah in a great rage, which
I suspected was partly assumed for our edification. We then went
into the chapel, which we had seen from above, and which is hand
some and well kept. In the sacristy is a horrid and appropriate image
of the bad thief We were also shown a small room off the chapel,
with a confessional, where the criminal condemned to die spends the
three days preceding his execution with a padre chosen for that pur
pose. What horrid confessions, what lamentations and despair that
smah dark chamber must have witnessed ! There is nothing in it
but an altar, a crucifix, and a bench. I think the custom is a very
humane one.
We felt glad to leave this palace of crimes, and to return to the
fresh air.
_ The fohowing day we went to visit San Hipolito, the insane hos
pital for men, accompanied by the director, a fine old gentleman, who

TIIE INTERIOR. 365
has been a great deal abroad, and who looks hke a French Marquis
of the ancien regime. I was astonished, on entering, at the sweet
and sohtary beauty of the large stone courts, with orange trees and
pomegranates now in fuh blossom, and the large fountains of beau
tifuhy clear water. There must be something soothing in such a
scene to the senses of these most unfortunate of God's creatures. They
were sauntering about, quiet and for the most part sad; some stretched
out under the trees, and others gazing on the fountain ; all appa
rently very much under the control of the administrador, who was
formerly a monk, this San Hipolito being a dissolved convent of
that order. The system of giving occupation to the insane is not yet
introduced here.
On entering, we saw rather a distinguished-looking, tah and well-
dressed gentleman, whom we concluded to be a stranger who had
come to see the establishment, like ourselves. We were therefore
somewhat startled when he advanced towards us with long strides,
and in an authoritative voice shouted out, " Do you know who I
am? I am the Dehverer of Guatemala !" The administrador told
us he had just been taken up, was a Frenchman, and in a state of
furious excitement. He continued making a tremendous noise, and
the other madmen seemed quite ashamed of him. One unhappy-
looking creature, with a pale, melancholy face, and his arms stretched
out above his head, was embracing a pillar, and when asked what he
was doing, rephed that he was " making sugar."
We were led into the dining-hall, a long airy apartment, provided
with benches and tables, and from thence into a most splendid
kitchen, high, vaulted, and receiving air from above; a kitchen that
might have graced the castle of some feudal baron, and looked as if
it would most surely last as long as men shah eat and cooks endure.
Monks of San Hip61ito ! how many a smoking dinner, what viands
steaming and savory must have issued from this noblest of kitchens
to your refectory next door.
The food for the present inmates, which two women were prepar
ing,, consisted of meat and vegetables, soup and sweet things; ex
cehent meat, and well-dressed frijoles. A poor httle boy, imbecile,
deaf and dumb, was seated there cross-legged, in a sort of wooden
box; a pretty child, with a fine colour, but who has been in this state
from his infancy. The women seemed very kind to him, and he had
a placid, contented expression of face; but took no notice of us when
we spoke to him. Strange and unsolvable problem, what ideas pass
through the brain of that child !
When we returned to the dining-hall, the inmates_ of the asylum,
to the number of ninety or a hundred, were ah sittmg at dinner,
ranged quietly on the benches, eating with wooden 'spoons out of
wooden bowls. The poor hero of Guatemala was seated at the lower
end of the table, tolerably tranquil. He started up on seeing us, and
was beginning some furious exclamations, but was prevented by his
neighbour, who turned round with an air of great superiority, saying,.

366 INSANE MONK.
" He's mad! " at which the other smiled with an air of great con
tempt, and looking at us, said, " He calls me mad 1" The man of
the pihar was eyeing his soup, with his arms as before, extended
above his head. The director desired him to eat his soup, upon
which he slowly and reluctantly brought down one arm, and eat a few
spoonfuls. " How much sugar have you made to-day?" asked the
director. " Fifty thousand kingdoms ! " said the man.
They showed us two men, of very good family, and one old gen
tleman who did not come to dinner Avith the rest, but stood aloof, in
the court-yard, with an ah- of great superiority. He had a cross
upon his breast, and belongs to an old family. As we approached, he
took off his hat, and spoke to us very politely; then turning to the
director, " Y porfin," said he, " Cuando saldre?" "When shah I
leave this place?" " Very soon," said the director. "You may get
your trunks ready." He bowed and appeared satisfied, but conti
nued standing in the same place, his arms folded, and with the same
wistful gaze as before. The director told us that the two great
causes of madness here are love and drinking, (mental and physical
intoxication) ; that the insanity caused by the former is almost inva
riably incurable, whereas the victims of the latter generally recover,
as is natural. The poor old gentleman with the cross owes the
overthrow of his mind to the desertion of his mistress. We saw the
chapel, where a padre says mass to these poor creatures, " the Inno
cents,'' as they are cahed here. They do not enter the chapel, for
fear of their creating any disturbance, but kneel outside, in front of
the iron grating, and the administrador says it is astonishing how
quiet and serious they appear during divine service.
As we passed through the court, there was a man busily employed
in hanging up various articles of little children's clothes, as if to dry
them — Httle frocks and trousers ; all the time speaking rapidly to
himself, and stopping every two minutes to take an immense draught
of water from the fountain. His dinner was brought out to him
(for he could not be prevailed on to sit down Avith the others), and'
he ate it in the same hurried way, dipping his bread in the fountain,
and talking all the time. The poor madman of the sugar-kingdoms
returned from dinner, and resumed his usual place at the pillar,
standing with his arms above his head, and with the same melancholy
and suffering expression of face.
The director then showed us the room where the clothes are kept;
the straw hats and coarse dresses, and the terrible straight waistcoats
made of brown linen, that look like coats Avith prodigiously long
sleeves, and the Botica Avhere the medicines are kept, and the secre
tary's room where they preserve the mournful records of entry and
death — though often of exit. All round the court are strong stone
cells, where the furious are confined. He took us into an empty one,
where a Franciscan friar had been lodged. He had contrived to pull
down part of the wah, and to make a large hole into his neighbour's
cell adjoining. Fancy one madman seeing the head of another appear

BLACK CHAMBER. 367
through a hole in his cell ! The whole cell was covered with crosses
of every dimension, drawn with a piece of coal. They had been
obhged to remove him into another in the gallery above, where he
had aheady begun a new work of destruction. I was afterwards
told by the padre P  n, the confessor of condemned criminals, and
who is of the same order as this insane monk, that this poor man
had been a merchant, and had collected together about forty thousand
dollars, with which he was travelling to Mexico, when he was at
tacked by robbers, who not only deprived him of all he possessed,
but gave him some severe wounds on the head. When somewhat
recovered, he renounced the world, and took his vows in the convent
of San Francisco. Shortly after, he became subject to attacks of
insanity, and at last became so furious, that the superior was obhged
to request an order for his admission to San Hip6hto.
The director then led us to the gallery above, where are more
cells, and the terrible " Cuarto Negro," the Black Chamber; a dark,
round cell, about twelve feet in circumference, with merely a sht in
the wall for the admission of air. The floor is thickly covered with
straw, and the walls are entirely covered with soft stuffed cushions.
Here the most furious madman is confined on his arrival, and whe
ther he throws himself on the floor, or dashes his head against the
wah, he can do himself no injury. In a few days, the silence and
the darkness soothe his fury, he grows calmer, and will eat the food
that is thrust through the aperture in the wah. From this he is
removed to a common cell, with more light and air; but until he
has become tranquil, he is not admitted into the court amongst the
others. From this horrible, though I suppose necessary den of suffering,
we went to the apartments of the administrador, which have a fine
view of the city and the volcanoes; and saw a virgin, beautifuhy
carved in wood, and dressed in white satin robes, embroidered with
smah diamonds. On the ground was a httle dog, dying, having
just fallen off from the azotea, an accident which happens to dogs
here not unfrequently. We then went up to the azotea, which
looks into the garden of San Fernando and of our last house, and
also into the barracks of the soldiers who, as  observed, are
more dangerous madmen than those who are confined. _ Some
rolled up in their dirty yellow cloaks, and others standing in their
shirt-sleeves, and many without either ; they were as dirty looking
a set of mihtary heroes as one would wish to see. When we came
down stairs again, and had gone through the court, and were passing
the last cell, each of which is only hghted by an aperture in the
thick stone wall, a pair of great, black eyes glaring through, upon
a level with mine, startled me infinitely. The eyes however glared
upon vacancy. The face was thin and sallow, the beard long and
matted, and the cheeks sunken. What long years of suffering ap
peared to have passed over that furrowed brow ! I wish I had not
seen it 

368 SANTA ANNA'S LEG.
We afterwards went to the college of Bizcainos, that K 
might see it— my third and last visit. What a palace ! What
courts and fountains ! We went over the whole building as before,
from the azotea downwards, and from the porter's lodge upwards.
Many of the scholars, who went out during the revolution, have not
yet returned. K  was in admiration at the galleries, which
look hke long vaulted streets, and at the chapel, which is certainly
remarkably rich  f
Having stopped in the carriage on the way home, at a shoemaker s,
we saw Santa Anna's leg lying on the counter, and observed it with
due respect, as the prop of a hero. With tlfis leg, which is fitted
with a very handsome boot, he reviews his troops next Sunday.
putting his best foot foremost; for generally he merely wears an
unadorned wooden leg. The shoemaker, a Spaniard, whom I can
recommend to all customers as the most impertinent individual I
ever encountered, was arguing in a blustering manner, with a gen
tleman who had "brought a message from the general, desiring some
alteration in the boot; and wound up by muttering, as the mes
senger left the shop, " He shah either wear it as it is, or review the
troops next Sunday without his leg !"*
We have ordered mangas to wear in our intended journey, which
is now nearly decided on — nothing tolerable to be had under seventy
or eighty dohars. They are made of strong cloth, Avith a hole in
the middle for putting the head through, Avith black velvet capes,
fringed either with silk or gold, and are universally fined with strong
calico. They are warm and convenient for riding in the country.
I have seen some richly embroidered, which cost five hundred
dohars. It is as I prophesied — now that we are about leaving Mexico, we
fancy that there still remain objects of interest which we have not
seen. We have paid a visit, probably a last visit, to Our Lady of
Guadalupe, and certainly never examined her cathedral Avith so much
attention, or lingered so long before each painting and shrine, or
listened with so much interest to the particulars of its erection, wlfich
were given us by Sefior  , whose authority in these matters is
unimpeachable. It appears that the present sacristy of the parochial church dates
back to 1575, and was then a small chapel, where the miraculous
image was kept, and where it remained until the beginning of the
next century, when a new church was built, to which the image was
solemnly transported. Even when enclosed in the first small sanc-
* Boston, November, 1842. — Apropos des bottes, I copy the following para
graph from an Havana newspaper :
" Mexico, 28th September. — Yesterday, was buried with pomp and solemnity
in the cemetery of Saint Paul, the foot which his Excellency, President Santa
Anna, lost in the action of the 5th December, 1838. It was deposited in a
monument erected for that purpose, Don Ignacio Sierra y Roso having pro
nounced a funeral discourse appropriate to the subject."

HIGH ALTAR. 369
tuary, its fame must have been great, for, by orders of the arch
bishop, six doweries of three hundred dollars each, to be given to
six orphans on their marriage, were annually drawn from the alms
offered at her_ shrine. But in 1629 Mexico suffered the terrible in
undation which destroyed so large a part of the city, and the
excellent archbishop, D. Francisco Manzo, while devoting his time
and fortune to assist the sufferers, also gave orders that the Virgin of
Guadalupe should be brought into Mexico, and placed in the cathe
dral there, then of very different dimensions from the present noble
bunding, occupying, it is said, the space which is now covered by
the principal sacristy. When the waters retired, and the Virgin
was restored to her own sanctuary, her fame increased'to a prodigious
extent. Copies of the Divine Image were so multiplied, that there
is probably not an Indian hut throughout the whole country where
one does not exist. Oblations and alms increased a thousand fold ;
a silver throne, weighing upwards of three hundred and fifty marks,
and beautifuhy wrought, chiefly at the expense of the viceroy,
Count of Salvatierra, was presented to her sanctuary, together
with a glass case (for the image), considered at that time a wonder of
art. At the end of the century a new temple, the present sanctuary,
was begun ; the second church was thrown down, but not until a
provisional building (the actual parish church) was erected to receive
the image. The new temple was concluded in 1709, and is said to have
cost from six to eight hundred thousand dollars, collected from
alms alone, which were solicited in person by the Aaceregal arch
bishop, D. Juan de Ortega y Montanez. Two private individuals in
Mexico gave, the one thirty, the other fifty thousand dohars, to
wards its erection.
The interior is of the Doric order, and has three aisles, divided by
eight pillars, upon which with the wahs are placed eighteen arches,
the centre one forming the dome of the edifice. It runs from north
to south, has three great gates, one fronting Mexico, and two others
at the sides. Its length may be two hundred and fifty feet, and its
width about one hundred and. thirty. In the four external angles of
the church are four lofty towers, in the midst of which rises the dome.
Three altars were at first erected, and in the middle one, destined for
the image, was a sumptuous tabernacle of silver gilt, in which were
more than three thousand two hundred marks of silver, and which
cost nearly eighty thousand dollars. In the centre of this was a piece
of gold, weighing four thousand and fifty castellanos (an old Spanish
coin, the fiftieth part of a mark of gold), and here the image was
placed, the hnen on which it is painted guarded by a silver plate of
great value. The rest of the temple had riches corresponding. The
candlesticks, vases, railing, &c, contain nearly fourteen , thousand
marks of silver, without counting the numerous holy vessels, cups
and chalices, adorned with jewels. One golden lamp weighed up
wards of two thousand two hundred castellanos — another seven hun-
, dred and fifty silver marks.

370 INDIAN NUNS, ETC.
In 1802 some part of the walls and arches began to give way —
and it was necessary to repair them. But first, under the direction
of the celebrated sculptor Tolsa, a new altar was erected for the
image. His first care was to collect the most beautiful marbles of
the country for tlfis purpose — the black he brought from Puebla,
and the Avhite, gray, and rose-coloured, from the quarries of San
Jose Vizarron. He also began to work at the bronze ornaments,
but from the immense sums of money necessary to its execution, the
work was delayed for nearly twenty years. Then, in 1826, it was
recommenced with fresh vigour. The image was removed mean
while to the neighbouring convent of the Capuchinas, and the same
year the altar was concluded, and the Virgin brought back in solemn
procession, in the midst of an innumerable multitude. This great
altar, which cost from three to four hundred thousand dohars, is a
concave hexagonal, in the midst of which rise two white marble pil
lars, and on each side two columns of rose-coloured marble, of the
composite order, which support the arch. Between these are two
pedestals, on which are the images of San Joaquin and Santa Anna,
and two niches, containing San Jose and St. John the Baptist.
Above the cornices are three other pedestals, supporting the three
Saints, Michael, Gabriel, and Raphael ; and above St. Michael, in
the midst of cherubim and seraphim, is a representation of the Eternal
Father. The space between the upper part of the altar and the roof,
is covered with a painted crimson curtain, held by saints and angels.
The tabernacle, in the centre of the altar, is of rose-coloured marble,
in which the image is deposited, and all the ornaments of the altar
are of gilt bronze and zinc.
Besides the collegiate and the parish church, there are at Guada
lupe the church of the Capuchin Nuns, and the churches of the Hill
and the Weh ; all in such close conjunction, that the whole village
or city, as it calls itseh, seems altogether some rehgious establishment
or confraternity, belonging to these temples and churches, united in
the worship of the Virgin, and consequent upon the " Miraculous
Apparition" manifested to the chosen Indian, Juan Diego.
I regret not having knoAvn till lately, that thefe exists in Mexico
a convent of Indian Nuns; and that each nun, when she takes the
veil, wears a very superb Indian dress — the costume formerly worn
by the cacicas, or ladies of highest rank.
I went some days ago with the SefioritaF  a to visit the house for
insane women, in the Calle de Canoa, built in 1698, by the rich congre
gation of el Salvador. The institution is now in great want of funds;
and is by no means to be compared with the establishment of San Hi-
p6hto. The directress seems a good kind-hearted woman, who deA'oted
herself to doing her duty, and who is very gentle to her patients ;
using no means but those of kindness and steadiness to subdue their
violence. But what a hfe of fear and suffering such a situation must
be ! The inmates look poor and miserable, generahy speaking, and
it is difficult to shake off the melancholy impression which thev pro-

ALL SAINTS. 371
duce on the mind. We Avere particularly struck by the sight of one un
fortunate woman of the better class, who, with her long hair ah dishe
velled, and eyes sparkling with a wild light, stood at the open window
of her cell, where for the present they are obhged to confine her, and
who poured forth the most piteous lamentations, and adjured every one
who passed, in the most pathetic terms, to restore her husband and
children to her. One girl was singing cheerfully — one or two avo-
men were sewing, but most of them were sitting crouched on the
floor, with a look of melancholy vacancy. The poor are admitted
gratis, and the richer classes pay a moderate sum for their board 
To turn to a very different theme. We continue to go to the
•opera, certainly the most agreeable amusement in Mexico, and ge
nerally to the  Minister's box, in the centre. Last evening,
Belisario was repeated, but with less splendour than on its represent
ation in honour of Santa Anna.
We expect to leave this on the sixteenth, going in a diligence as
far as Toluca, where a Mexican officer, Colonel Y  , has kindly
promised to meet us with mules and horses. M. le Comte de B 
and Mr. W  , secretaries of the French and English Legations,
have made arrangements for accompanying us as far as Valladohd ;
with which agreeable travelling companions we may reasonably
expect a pleasant journey.
Last Sunday was' the festival of All Saints ; on the evening of
which day, we walked out under the portales, with M. and Madame
de  ,  minister and his wife, to look at the filumination,
and at the numerous booths fihed with sugar skulls, &c. ; temptingly
ranged in grinning rows, to the great edification of the children. In
general, there are crowds of Well dressed people on the occasion of
this fete, but the evening was cold and disagreeable, and though there
were a number of laches, they were enveloped in shawls, and dis
persed early. The old women at their booths, with their cracked
voices, kept up the constant cry of" Skulls, ninas, skulls !"— but there
were also animals done in sugar, of every species, enough to form
specimens for a Noah's ark. .
14th.— -We leave this the day after to-morrow, and shall write from
our first halting-place ; and as on our return weshall dohttlemore than
pass through Mexico, we are almost taking leave of all our friends.
Were I to tell you all the kindness and hospitality, and cordial otters
of service that we receive, and the manner m which our rooms
(albeit the rooms of an inn) are fihed from morning till night, it
would seem an exaggeration. One acquaintance vye have made
lately, whom we hke so much, that we have been vociferously abus
ing the system of faire part in this city, since, owing to the mistake
of a servant, we have until now been deprived of the pleasure of
knowing her. The mistake is rectified at the eleventh hour, lhe
lady is the Sefiora de G  z P  a, one of the most accom
plished and well-informed women in Mexico _; and though our friend
ship has been short, I trust it may be enduring.
r 2 C

372 FAREWELL AUDIENCE.
Two evenings since, we went with the Sefiora de C  s to an
amateur concert ; and I question whether in any capital of Europe,
so many good amateur voices could be cohected. I do not speak of
the science or cultivation, though, the hostess, the Sefiora A  , has
a perfect method. But yesterday we spent a most agreeable even
ing in a dehghtful family reunion, at the house of Senor N  i del
B  o. It was strictly hmited to the famhy relations, and was, I
beheve, his jour defete. If ah Mexican society resembled this, we
should have too much regret in leaving it. The girls handsome,
well, educated, and simple in their manners and tastes — the Countess
a model of virtue and dignity. Then so much true affection and love
of home amongst them ah ! So much wealth and yet good taste and
perfect simphcity visible in ah that surrounds them ! Mexico is not
lost as long as such famihes exist, and though they mingle httle in
society, the influence of their virtues and charities is widely felt.
This morning C  n had an audience of the new president. He
also paid a visit to General Bustamante, who is stih at Guadalupe, and
preparing for his departure. He wih probably sail in the Jason, the
man-of-war which brought us to Vera Cruz, and it is probable that
we shah leave the repubhc at the same period. The Dowager Mar
quesa de Vivanco, who in consequence of ill health has not left her
house for months, was among our visiters this morning.
To-day Count C  a dined here, and brought for our inspection
the splendid sword presented by Congress to General Valencia, with
its hilt of brilliants and opals ; a beautiful piece of workmanship,
wlfich does credit to the Mexican artificers. He was particularly
brihiant and eloquent in his conversation to-day — whether his theories
are right or Avrong, they are certainly entrainant.
Our next letters wih probably be dated from Toluca.

LETTER THE FORTY-EIGHTH.
Leave Mexico — Diligence — Indian Padre — Brandy-drinking Female — Bad
Roads— Beautiful View— Escort— Good Breakfast— Crosses— Robber's Head
—Select Party— Lerraa— Valley of Toluca— Hacienda— Toluca— Count
de B  and Mr. W  The Comandante— Gay Supper— Colonel
5f  Day at Toluca — Journey to La Gabia — Heat and Hunger — Pleasant
Quarters— Princely Estate— El Pilar— A Zorillo— A Wolf— Long Journey-
Tortillas— Count de B  State of Michoacan — Forest Scenery — Trojes
of Angangueo — Comfort. Toujca, 16th.
In vain would be a description with the hopes of bringing them be
fore you, of our last few days in Mexico !— of the confusion, the bustle,

DILIGENCE. 373
the visits, the paying of bills, the packing of trunks, the sending off
of heavy luggage to Vera Ciuz, and extracting the necessary articles
for our journey ; especially yesterday, when we were surrounded by
visiters and cargadores, from half-past seven in the morning till half-
past eleven at night. Our very last visiters were the famihes of
G  a and'E  n. The new president, ondit, is turning his sword
into a ploughshare. Preferring a country to a city hfe, nearly every
Sunday he names the house in which he desires to be feted the fol
lowing week — now at the villa of Sefior  at Tacubaya — now at
the hacienda of Senor  at San Agustin. As yet the diplomatic
corps do not attend these assembhes, not having been officially re
ceived ; but we hear that there is singing and dancing, and other
amusements, and that his excellency is extremely amiable and galant.
By six o'clock this morning several of our friends were assembled
to accompany us to the diligence (Sefiors C  o, M  e, R  s,
A  e, &c), which, unfortunately, we had not been able to secure
for ourselves ; for at this moment, the whole world is in motion,
going to attend the great annual fair of San Juan de los Lagos ;
which begins on the fifth of December, and to wlfich Toluca is the
direct road. Fortunately, the diligence had broken down the pre
ceding evening, and it was necessary to repair it ; otherwise we
should have left behind various important articles, for in the con
fusion of our departure, every one had left some requisite item at the
hotel; — C  n his gun ; K  her bag ;T everything — and more
especially the book with which I intended to beguile the weary
horns between Mexico and Toluca. Our servant boy ran — Sefior
R  s mounted his horse, and most good-naturedly galloped be
tween the diligence office and the hotel, until, httle by httle, ah the
missing articles were restored. We climbed into the coach, which
was so crowded that we could but just turn our heads to groan an
adieu to our friends. The coach rattled off through the streets,
dashed through the Alameda, and gradually we began to shake
down, and by a httle arrangement of cloaks and sarapes, to be less
crowded. Apadre with a very Indian complexion sat between K 
and me, and a horrible, long, lean, bird-hke female, with immense
red goggle eyes, coal-black teeth, fingers like claws, a great goitre,
and drinking brandy at intervals, sat opposite to us. ^ There were
also various men buried in their sarapes. Satisfied with a cursory
inspection of our companions, I addressed myself _ to Blackwood's
Magazine, but the road which leads towards the Desierto, and which
we before passed on horseback, is dreadful, and the mules could
scarcely drag the loaded coach up the steep hills. We were thrown
into ruts, horribly jolted, and sometimes obhged to_ get out, which
would not have been disagreeable but for the necessity of getting in
again. The day and the country were beautiful, but impossible to
enjoy either in a shut coach. We were rather thankful when the
wheels, sticking in a deep rut, we were forced to descend, and walk
forwards for some time. We had before seen the view from these
2c2

374 ROBBER'S HEAD.
heights, but the effect never was more striking than at this moment.
The old city with her towers, lakes and volcanoes, lay bathed in the
bright sunshine. Not a cloud was in the sky — not an exhalation
rose from the lake — not a shadow was on the mountains. Ah was
bright and glittering, and flooded in the morning hght ; while in
contrast rose to the left the dark, pine-covered crags, behind which
the Desierto hes.
At Santa ¥6 we changed horses, and found there an escort which
had been ordered for us by General Tomel ; a necessary precaution
in these robber-haunted roads. We stopped to breakfast at Quajv-
malpa, where the inn is kept by a Frenchman, who is said to be
making a large fortune, wlfich he deserves for the good breakfast he
had prepared for us by orders of the Count de B  and Mr. W  •,
who had preceded us early in the morning on horseback ; (enviable
fate !) We had white fish from the river of Lerma, which crosses
the plains of Toluca, fresh and well dressed, and without that taste
of mud wlfich those from the Mexican Laguna occasionahy have ';
also hot cutlets, potatoes, coffee, &c.
After leaving this inn, situated in a country formed of heaps of
lava and volcanic rocks, the landscape becomes more beautiful and
wooded. It is, however, dangerous, on account of the shelter wlfich
the wooded mountains afford to the knights of the road, and to whose
predilection for these wild sohtudes, the number of crosses bore wit
ness. In a woody defile there is a smah clear space cahed " Las
Cruxes," where several wooden crosses point out the site of the
famous battle between the curate Hidalgo and the Spanish General
Truxillo. An object really in keeping with the wild scenery, was
the head of the celebrated robber Maldonado, nailed to the pine tree
beneath wlfich he committed his last murder. It is now quite black,
and grins there, a warning to his comrades and an encouragement to
travehers. From the age of ten to that of fifty, he followed the
honourable profession of free-trader, when he expiated his crimes.
The padre who was in the coach with us, told us that he heard his
last confession. That grinning skull was once the head of a man,,
and an ugly one too, they say ; but stranger still it is to think, that
that man was once a baby, and sat on his mother's knee, and that his
mother may have been pleased to see him cut his first tooth. If she
could but see his teeth now ! Under tlfis very head, and as if to show
their contempt for law and justice, the robbers lately eased some tra
vellers of their luggage. Those who were robbed, however, were
false coiners, rather a common class in Toluca, and two of these in
genious gentlemen were in the coach with us (as we afterwards learnt),
and were returning to that city. These, Avith the brandy-drinking
female, composed our select httle party !
The scenery without Avas decidedly preferable to that within, and
the leathern sides of the vehicle being rolled up, we had a tolerable
view. What hills covered with noble pines ! What beautiful pasture-
fields, dotted with clumps of trees, that looked as if disposed for

TOLUCA. 375
effect, as in an Enghsh park ! — firs, oaks, cedars and elms. Arrived
at the town or vihage of Lerma, famous for its manufacture of spurs,
and standing in a marshy country at the entrance of the valley of
Toluca, all danger of the robbers is passed, and with the danger,
much of the beauty of the scenery. But we breathed more freely
on another account, for here she of the goggle-eyes and goitre, de
scended with her brandy-bottle, relieving us from the oppressive
influence of the sort of day-maxe, if there be such a thing, which her
presence had been to us.
The valley of Toluca was now before us, its volcano towering in
the distance. The plains around looked cold and dreary, with pools
-of transparent water, and swamps filled with various species of water
fowl. The hacienda of San Nicolas, the property of Sefior Mier y
¦Teran, a Spaniard, was the only object that we saw worthy of notice,
before we reached Toluca. This hacienda, formerly the property of
the Carmehte monks, is a valuable estate. Not a tree is to be seen
here, or in the valley, a great extent of which is included in it; but
'.it is surrounded by vast fields of maguey and maize ; it is traversed
by a fine river, and is one of the most profitable estates in the country.
The labourers here are in general the Ottomie Indians, a poor and
degraded tribe. Here we dismissed our escort, which had been
changed every six leagues, and entered Toluca about four o'clock,
passing the Garrita without the troublesome operation of searching,
to which travellers in general are subject. We found tolerable rooms
in an inn ; at least there were two or three wooden chairs in each,
and a deal table in one ; and Mr. W  and the Count de B 
looking out for us. Colonel Y  had not yet made his appearance.
Toluca, a large and important city, lies at the foot of the mountain
of San Miguel de Tutucuitlalpico ; and is an old, quiet, good-looking,
respectable-seeming place, about as sad and sohtary as Puebla. The
streets, the square, and the churches are clean and handsome. To the
south of the city he extensive plains covered with rich crops; and
about ten miles in the same direction is the volcano. We walked
out in the afternoon to the Alameda, passing under the portales ;
handsomer and cleaner than those of Mexico ; and sat down on a
Stone bench beside a fountain, a position which commanded a beau
tiful view of the distant hills and of the volcano, behind wlfich the
sun was setting in a sea of liquid flame, making it look hke a great
pearl lying amongst melted rubies. The Alameda has not been much
ornamented', and is quite untenanted; but walks are cut through the
grass, and they were making hay. Every thing looked quiet and
convent-like, and a fine fresh air passed over the new-mown grass,
inclining to cold, but pleasant. The volcano is scooped out into a
natural basin, containing, in the very midst of its fiery furnace, two
lakes of the purest, coldest and most transparent water. It_ is said
that the view from its summit, the ascent to which is very fatiguing,
but has been accomphshed, is beautiful and extensive. On the largest
lake travellers have embarked in a canoe, but I believe it has never

376 LEAVE TOLUCA.
been crossed, on account of the vulgar prejudice that it is unfathom
able, and has a whirlpool hi the centre. The volcano is about fifteen
thousand feet above the level of the sea, and nine thousand above
Toluca. It is not so grand as Popocatepetl, but a respectable volcano
for a country town — " muy decente" (very decent), as a man said in
talking of the pyramids that adorn the wonderful cavern of
Cucahuamilpa. We ordered supper at the inn, and were joined by the Comandante
of Toluca, Don M  A  , the officer who came out to meet us
when we arrived in Mexico. I regret to state that such a distin
guished party should have sat down, six in number, to fowl and fri
joles, with only three knives and two forks between them. The pro
vident travellers had, however, brought good wine; and if our supper
was not very elegant, it was at least very gay. Colonal Y  ar
rived about ten o'clock ; but it is agreed that the animals require one
day's rest, and we shah consequently spend to-morrow at Toluca.
17th. — We have spent tlfis day in arranging our route, in which
we are guided not by the most direct, but the most agreeable; in
walking through the city, wlfich, in the time of federahsm, was the
capital of the state, in chmbing some of the steep roads cut through
the hills at whose base it hes ; and in admiring the churches and
convents, and broad, well-paved streets with their handsome houses,
painted white and red. It is decided that the first night of our pil
grimage, we shah request hospitality at the hacienda of the Ex-Mi-
nister Hechavama — La Gabia, which is about ten leagues of very
bad road from Toluca — which is sixteen from Mexico. Ah these
important arrangements being made, and a sketch of our journey
traced out, we are about retiring to rest, in the agreeable prospect of
not entering any four or two- wheeled vehicle, be it cart, carriage,
coach or diligence, tih we return here. La Gabia, 19th.
To get under weigh the first morning was a work of some difficulty.
Mules to be loaded, horses to be fitted with saddles; and one mule
lame, and another to be procured, and the trunks found to be too
heavy, and so on. We rose at five, dressed by candlelight, took
chocolate, put on our mangas, and then planted ourselves in the pas
sage looking down upon the patio, to watch the proceedings and
preparations. Colonel A  arrived at seven with a trooper, to
accompany us part of the way; and we set off while it was cool,
without waiting for the rest of the party. Toluca looked silent and
dignified as we passed through the streets — with its old convents and
¦dark hills. The road, after leaving the city, was stony and moun
tainous; and having reached a smah rancho with an old oratorio
beside it, we halted to wait for our travelling companions. Colonel
A  amused us with an account of his warfare against the Co-
manches, in which service he has been terribly wounded. Singular
contrast between these ferocious barbarians and the mild Indians of
the interior ! He considers them an exceedingly handsome, fine-

LA GABIA. 377
looking race ; whose resources, both for war and trade, are so great,
that were it not for their natural indolence, the difficulties of checking
their aggressions would be formidable indeed. Colonel A  being
obhged to return to Toluca, left us in charge of his trooper, and we
waited at the rancho for about half an hour, when our party appeared
with a long train of mules and mozos ; the gentlemen dressed Mexican
fashion as weh as their men; the best dress in the world for a long
equestrian journey. Colonel Y  had staid behind to procure
another mule, and there being two roads, we, as generally happens
in these cases, chose the worst; which led us for leagues over a
hihy country, unenhvened by tree, shrub, bush or flower. The sun
was already high, and the day intensely hot. We passed an occa
sional poor hut — a chance Indian passed us — showed his white teeth,
and in spite of the load on his back, contrived to draw his hat off his
matted locks, and give us a mild good morrow — but for the rest,
from Dan to Beersheba, from Toluca to La Gabia, all was barren.
By twelve o'clock, we might have fancied ourselves passing over the
burning plains of Mesopotamia, notwithstanding an occasional cold
breeze which swept across us for a moment, serving only to make us
feel the heat with greater force. Then barranca fohowed barranca.
The horses chmbed up one crag, and shd down another. By two
o'clock we were all starving with hunger," but nothing was to be had.
Even Nebuchadnezzar would have found himseh at a nonplus. The
Count de B  contrived to buy some graniditas and parched corn
from an Indian, which kept us quiet for a little while; and we tried
to console ourselves by listening to our arrieros, who struck up some
wild songs in chorus, as they drove the wearied mules up the burn
ing hills. Every Indian that we met assured us that La Gabia was
" cerquita," quite near — " detras lomita," behind the httle hih; and.
every httle hih that we passed presented to our view another httle
hih, but no signs of the much-wished-for dwelling. A more barren,
treeless and uninteresting country than this road (on which we have
unanimously revenged ourselves by giving it the name of " the road
of the three hundred barrancas") led us through, I never beheld.
However, " it's a long lane that has no turning," as we say in Scot
land; and between three and four, La Gabia was actuahy in sight; a
long, low building, whose entrance appeared to us the very gates of
Eden. We were all, but especiahy me, who had ridden with my
veil up, from a curiosity to see where my horse was going, burnt to
the colour of Pawnee Indians. .
We were most cordially welcomed by Sefior Hechavama and his
brothers-in-law, and soon refreshed by rest and an excehent dinner.
Fortunately K  and I had no mirrors; but each gave such a
flattering description of the other's countenance, that it was quite
2fT8iT)illC . This beautiful hacienda, which formerly belonged to the Count
de Regla, whose possessions must have been royal, is thirty leagues
in length and seventeen in width— containing m this great space the.

378 EL PILAR..
productions of every chmate, from the fir-clad mountains on a level
with the volcano of Toluca, to the fertile plains which produce corn
and maize; and lower down, to fields of sugar-cane and other pro
ductions of the tropics.
We retired to rest betimes, and early this morning rode out with
these gentlemen, about five leagues through the hacienda. The
morning was bright and exhilarating, and our animals being tired,
we had fresh, strong little horses belonging to theh stud, which
carried us dehghtfully. We rode through beautiful pine woods and
beside running water, contrasting agreeably with our yesterday's
journey ; and were accompanied by three handsome httle boys,
children of the family, the finest and manliest httle fellows I ever saw,
who, dressed in a complete Mexican costume, like three miniature ran
cheros, rode boldly and fearlessly over every thing. There was a great
deal of firing at crows and at the wild duck on a beautiful httle lake,
but I did not observe that any one was burthened with too much
game. We got off our horses to climb through the wooded hills and
ravines, and passed some hours lying under the pine trees, hstening
to the gurgling of the httle brook, whose bright waters make music
in the solitude ; and, hke the soldiers at the pronunciamiento, but
with surer aim, pelting each other from behind the parapets of the
tall trees, with fir tops. About ten o'clock we returned to breakfast,
and Colonel Y  having arrived, we are now preparing to continue
our journey this afternoon. Angangueo, 20th.
We left La Gabia at four o'clock, accompanied by our hospitable
hosts for some leagues, all their own princely property, through
great pasture fields, woods of fir and oak, hills clothed with trees,
and fine clear streams. We also passed a valuable stone quarry;
and were sIioavii a hill belonging to the Indians, presented to them
by a former proprietor. We formed a long train, and I pitied the
mistress of El Pilar, our next halting-place, upon whom such a
regiment was about to be unexpectedly quartered. There were
C  n, K  , and I, and a servant ; the Count de B  and
his servant ; Mr. W  and his servant ; Colonel Y  and his
men ; mules,_ arrieros, spare mules, and led horses ; and ah the mozos
armed, forming altogether a formidable gang. We took leaA'e of
the Hechavarria family when it was aheady growing dusk, and
when the moon had risen found we had taken a great round, so
that it was late _ at night when we arrived at El Pilar, a small haci
enda, situated in a wild-looking, sohtary part of the country. A
servant had been sent forward to inform the lady of the establish
ment of our approach, and Ave were most kindly received. The
house is clean and pretty, and, tired as we were, the sola, boasting
of an old piano, tempted us to try a Avaltz while they were preparing
supper. The man who waited at table, before he removed the
things, popped down upon his knees, and recited a long prayer
aloud. The gentlemen had one apartment prepared for them — we

A WOLF. 379
another, in which, nay, even in the large four-posted and well-
curtained bed allotted to us, Madame Yturbide had slept when on
her way to Mexico before her coronation. The Sefiora M  also
showed us her picture, and spoke of her and the emperor with great
enthusiasm. This morning we rose by candle-light at five o'clock, with the
prospect of a long ride, having to reach the Trojes of Angangueo, a
mining district (trojes hterally mean granaries), fourteen leagues
from El Pilar. The morning was cold and raw, with a dense fog
covering the plains, so that we could scarcely see each other's faces,
and found our mangos particularly agreeable. We were riding
quickly across these ugly, marshy wastes, when a curious animal
crossed our path, a zorillo, or epatl, as the Indians cah it, and which
Bouffbn mentions under the generic name of mouffetes. It looks
like a brown and white fox, with an enormous tail, which it holds
up like a great feather in the air. It is known not only for the
beauty of its skin, but for the horrible and pestilential odour with
which it defends itself when attacked, and which poisons the air for
miles around. Notwithstanding the warnings of the mozos as to its
pecuhar mode of defence, the gentlemen pursued it with guns and
pistols, on horseback and on foot, but fired in vain. The beast
Seemed bullet-proof, turning, doubling, winding, crossing pools,
hiding itself, stopping for a moment as if it were killed, and then
trotting off again with its feathery tail much higher than its head;
so that it seemed to be running backwards. The fog favoured it very
much. It was certainly wounded in the paw, and as it stopped
and seemed to hesitate, the sportsmen thought they had caught him;
but a minute afterwards away went the waving tail amongst the
pools and the marshy grass, the zorillo, no doubt, accompanying it,
though we could not see him, and fortunately without resorting to
any offensive or defenrive measures. While they were chasing the
zoriho, and we had rode a httle way off, that we might not be
accidentally shot in the fog, an immense wolf came looming by in
the mist, with its stealthy gahop, close by our horses, causing us to
shout for the sportsmen ; but our numbers frightened it ; besides
which, it had but just breakfasted on a mule belonging to the haci
enda, as we were told by the son of the proprietress of El Pilar, who,
hearing ah this distant firing, had ridden out toinquire into its cause,
supposing that we might have lost our way in the fog, and were
firing signals of distress.
We continued our journey across these plains for about three
leagues, when the sun rose and scattered the mist; and after crossing
a river, we entered the woods and rode between the shadows of the
trees, through lovely forest scenery, interspersed with dells and
plains and sparkhng rivulets. But by the time we left_ these woods,
and made our way up amongst the hills, the sun was riding high m
the heavens, the pastures and green trees disappeared, and, though
the country was still fertile and the soil rich, its beauties lay hid m

380 STATE OF MICHOACAN.
the valleys below. K  's horse received a sort of coup de soleil,
shivered and trembled, and would not go on ; so she mounted
another, and one of the mozos led her's slowly by a different road to
a village, to be watered. About one o'clock we began to wish for
breakfast, but the mules which carried the provisions had taken a
different path, and were not in sight; so that, arriving at an Indian
hut close by a running stream, we were unanimous in dismounting,
and at least procuring some tortillas from the inmates. At the same
time, the Count de  very philanthropicahy hired an old dis-
coloured-looking horse, wlfich was grazing peaceably outside the
hut, and mounting the astonished quadruped, who had never, in
his wildest dreams, calculated upon having so fine a chevaher on his
back, galloped off in search of more sohd food, while we set the
Indian women to baking tortillas. He returned in about hah an
hour, with some bones of boiled mutton, tied up in a handkerchief!
some salt, and thick tortillas, cahed gorditas, and was received with
immense applause. Every thing vanished in an incredibly short
space of time, and we resumed our journey with renewed Adgour.
Towards the afternoon we entered the state of Michoacan, by a road
(destined to be a highway) traced through great pine forests, after
stopping once more to rest at Las Millas, a few huts, or rather
wooden cages, at the outskirts of the wood. Nothing can be more
beautiful or romantic than this road, ascending through these noble
forests, whose lofty oaks and gigantic pines clothe the mountains to
their highest summits ; sometimes so high, that, as we look upwards,
the trees seem diminished to shrubs and bushes ; the sun darting his
warm, golden light between the dark green extended branches of
these distant forest pyramids, so that they seem to be basking in the
very focus of his rays. Untrodden and virgin as these forests appear,
an occasional cross, with its withered garland, gives token of life,
and also of death ; and green and lonely is the grave which the
traveher has found among these Alpine solitudes, under the shadows
of the dark pine, on a bed of fragrant wild flowers, fanned by the
pure air from the mountain tops. The flowers which grow under
the shade of the trees are beautiful and gay in their colours. Every 7
where there are blue lupins, marigolds, dahlias, and innumerable
blossoms with Indian names. Sometimes we dismounted and walked
up the steepest parts, to rest our horses and ourselves ; but as it was
impossible to go fast on these stony paths, it became entirely dark
before Angangueo was in sight; and the road, which, for a great
part of the way, is remarkably good, now led us down a perpendicular
descent amongst the trees, covered with rocks and stones, so that
the horses stumbled, and one, which afterwards proved to be blind
of one eye, and not to see very clearly with the other, feh and threw
his rider, who was not hurt. _ It was near eight o'clock (and we had
been on horseback since six in the morning) when, after crossing a
shallow stream, we saw the fires of the furnaces of Angangueo, a
mining village, at the foot of some wild hills. We rode past the

ANGANGUEO. 381
huts, where the blazing fires were slfining on the swarthy faces of
the workmen, the road skirting the vahey, till we reached the house
of Don Carlos Heimbiirger, a Polish gentleman at the head of the
German mining estabhshment. This house, the only one of any
consequence at Angangueo, is extremely pretty, Avith a piazza in
front, looking doAvn upon the valley, which at night seems hke the
dwelling of the Cyclops, and within a very picture of comfort. We
were welcomed by the master of the house, and by Madame B  n,
a pretty and accomphshed German lady, the wife of a physician
who resides there. We had aheady known her in Mexico, and
were glad to renew our acquaintance in this outlandish spot. One
must have travelled fourteen leagues, from morning tih night, to
know how comfortable her httle drawing-room appeared, with its
weh-cushioned red sofas, bright hghts, and vases of flowers, as we
came in from the cold and darkness, and how pretty and extra-
civihzed she looked in her black satin gown, not to mention the
excehent dinner and the large fires, for they have chimneys in this
part of the world. In a nice httle bed-room, with a cheerful fire,
the second time I have seen one in two years, I indite these parti
culars, and shah continue from our next place of rest.

LETTER THE FORTY-NINTH-
Leave Trojes — Beautiful Territory — Tarrascan Indians — Taximaroa — Dis
tressed Condition— An Improvement — Cold Morning— Querendaro— Fine
Breed of Horses— San Bartolo— Produce— Country Proprietors— Colear—
Ride to Morelia— Wild Ducks— Sunset— Cathedral Bell— Cuincho— Curates
Morelos, Matamoros and Hidalgo— Warm Baths — Handsome Girls— Starv
ing travellers — Lost Mules— Lancers — Night on a Heap of Straw— Mules
found— Tzintzontzan— King Calsonsi— Pascuaro— Kind Reception — Bishop
—Robbers— Curu — Night in a Barn — Mountain — Uruapa — Enchanting
Scenery — Pleasant Family — Jorullo. Valladolid, 25th.
As the house was so agreeable, and our next day's journey short,
we could not prevail upon ourselves to leave the Trojes before nine
o'clock; and even then, with the hopes of spending some time there
on our return to see the mining estabhshment; the mills tor grind
ing ore, the horizontal water-wheels, &c. &c; and stih more, the
beautiful scenery in the neighbourhood.

382 TAXIMAROA.
That you may understand our hne of march, take a map of
Mexico, and you will see that Michoacan, one of the most beautiful
and fertile territories in the world, is bounded on the north by the
river Lerma, afterwards known by the name of Rio Grande; also
by the department of Guanajuato ; to the east and northeast it
bounds that of Mexico, and to the west, that of Guadalajara. _ It
hes on the western slope of the Great Cordillera of Anahuac. Hills,
woods, and beautiful valleys diversify its surface; its pasture-grounds
are watered by numerous streams, that rare advantage under the
torrid zone, and the chmate is cool and healthy. The Indians of
this department are the Terascos — the Ottomi and the Chichimeca
Indians ; the first are the most civihzed of the tribes, and theh lan
guage the most harmonious. We are now travelling in a north
westerly direction, towards the capital of the state, Valladohd, or
Morelia, as it has been cahed since the independence, in honour of
the curate Morelos, its great supporter.
We had a pleasant ride of nine leagues through an open pasture
country, meeting with nothing very remarkable on our journey,
but an Indian woman seated on the ground, her Indian husband
standing beside her. Both had probably been refreshing them
selves with pulque — perhaps even with its homeopathic extract
mezcal; but the Indian was sober and sad, and stood with his arms
folded, and the most patient and pitying face, while his wife, quite
overcome with the strength of the potation, and unable to go any
further, looked up at him with the most imploring air, saying re
peatedly — " Matame, Miguel, matame" (Kill me, Miguel — kill me)
— apparently considering herself quite unfit to live.
About five o'clock, we came in sight of the pretty vihage and
old church of Taximaroa ; and riding up to the meson or inn, found
two empty dark rooms with mud floors — without windows, in fact
without any thing but their four wahs — neither bench, chair, nor
table. Although we travel with our own beds, this looked rather
uninviting, especiahy after the pleasant quarters we had just left ;
and we turned our eyes wistfully towards a pretty small house upon
a hill, with a painted portico, thinking how agreeably situated we ,
should be there ! Colonel Y  thereupon rode up the hill, and
presenting himself to the owner of this house, described our forlorn
prospects; and he kindly consented to permit us all to sup there,
and moreover to receive the ladies for the night. For the gentle
men he had no room, having but one spare apartment, as one of
his family was a great invahd, and could not be moved. Accord
ingly, our travelling luggage was carried up the hih; the horses
and mules and servants were quartered in the village, the gentlemen
found lodging for themselves in a .bachelor's house, and we found
ourselves in very agreeable quarters, on a pretty piazza, with an
extensive view; and one large room, containing a table and some
benches, at our service. Meanwhile, M. de B  rushed through
the village, finding eggs and hens and tortillas, and then returning,

FINE HORSES. 383
he and Mr. W  produced the travelling stores of beef and
tongue, and set about making mustard and drawing bottles of wine
to the great wonderment and edification of the honest proprietor
Even a clean tablecloth was produced; a piece of furniture which
he had probably never seen before, and now eyed wistfully, doubt
less taking it for a sheet. We had a most amusing supper, some per
forming dexterously with penknives, and others using tortillas as
forks. _ We won the heart of the bourgeois by sending a cup of tea
to his mvahd, and inviting him to partake of another, which he
seemed tp consider a rare and medicinal beverage. About nine
o'clock, the gentlemen departed to their lodgings, and our beds
were erected in the large room where we had supped; the man
assuring us that he was quite pleased to have us under his roof,
andhked our company extremely well; adding, " Me cuadra mucho
la gente decente." "lam very fond of decent people."
We left Taximaroa at six o'clock, having spent rather a dis
turbed night, in consequence of the hollow coughs with which the
whole family seemed afflicted, at least the poor invahd on one side
of our room, and the master of the house on the other. The morn
ing was so cold, that every manga and sarape was put in requisition.
Our ride this day was through superb scenery, every variety of hill
and vahey, water and wood, particularly the most beautiful woods
of lofty oaks, the whole with scarcely a trace of cultivation, and for
the most part entirely uninhabited. Our numbers were augmented
by Colonel Y  's troop, who rode out from Morella to meet him.
We had a long journey, passed by the httle vihage of San Andres ,
and stopped to eat tortillas in a very dirty hut at Pueblo Viejo,
surrounded by the dirtiest little Indian children. Throughout the
whole ride, the trees and flowering shrubs were beautiful, and the
scenery so varied, that although we rode for eleven hours in a hot
sun, we scarcely felt fatigued, for wherever there are trees and
water and fresh green grass, the eye is rested. In this and in our
last' few days' journey, we saw a number of blue birds, called by
the common people guardia-bosques, wood, guardians. About half-
past five Ave entered a winding road, through a natural shrubbery,
leading to Querendaro, the fine hacienda of Sefior Pimentel, a
senator. When Ave arrived the family were at dinner, and we were
invited to join them, after which we went out to see the hacienda,
and especially the handsome and well-kept stables, where the pro
prietor has a famous breed of horses, some of which were trotted out
for our inspection — beautiful, spirited creatures — one called " Hih
de Oro," golden thread — another, " Pico Blanco," white mouth, &c.
In the inner courtyard are many beautiful and rare flowers, and
every thing is kept in great order.
At nine o'clock, the fohowing morning, we left Querendaro, and
rode on to San Bartolo, a vast and beautiful property, belonging to
Seiior Don Joaquin Gomez, of Valladolicl. ¦ The family were from

384 SAN BARTOLO.
home, with the exception of his son and nephew, who did the
honours of the house with such cordial and genuine hospitahty,
that we felt perfectly at home before the day was over. I think
the Mexican character is never seen to such advantage as in the
country, amongst these great landed proprietors of old family, who
hve on their own estates, engaged in agricultural pursuits, and en
tirely removed from ah the party feeling and petty interests of a
city hfe. It is true that the hfe of a country gentleman here is
that of a hermit, in the total absence of ah society, in the nearly
unbroken sohtude that surrounds him. For leagues and leagues
there is no habitation but his own; the nearest miserable village
may be distant hah a day's journey, over an almost impassable
road. He is " monarch of all he surveys," a king amongst his
farm servants and Indian workmen. Nothing can exceed the in
dependence of his position; but to enjoy this wild country life, he
must be born to it. He must be a first-rate horseman, and ad
dicted to ah kinds of country sport; and if he can spend the day in
riding over his estate, in directing his workmen, watching over his
improvements, redressing disputes and grievances, and can sit down
in the evening in his large and lonely halls, and philosophically
bury himseh in the pages of some favourite author, then his time
will probably not hang heavy on his hands.
As for the young master here, he was up with the lark — he was
on the most untractable horse in the hacienda, and away across the
fields with Iris followers, chasing the bulls as he went — he was fish
ing — he was shooting — he was making bullets — he was leagues off
at a village, seeing a country bull-fight; — he was always in a good
humour, and so were ah who surrounded him — he was engaged in
the dangerous amusement of colear — and by the evening it would
have been a clever writer who had kept his eyes open after such a
day's work. Never was there a young lad more evidently fitted
for a free hfe in the country.
There was a generous, frank liberality apparent in every thing
in this hacienda, that it was agreeable to witness ; nothing petty or
calculating. Seiior  , lame through an accident, and therefore
unable to mount his horse, or to go far on foot, seemed singularly
gentle and kind-hearted. The house is one of the prettiest and
most cheerful we have seen yet; but we passed a great stone build
ing on the road, which the proprietor of San Bartolo is having
constructed for one of his famhy, which, if it keep its promise, will
be a palace when finished. The principal produce of this hacienda
is pimienlo, the capsicum. There is the pimiento dulce and the
pimiento picante, the sweet fruit of the common capsicum, and the
fruit of the bird pepper capsicum. The Spaniards gave to ah these
peppers the name of chile, which they borrowed from the Indian
word quauhchilli, and wlfich, to the native Mexicans, is as neces
sary an ingredient of food as salt is to us. At dinner we had the

WILD DUCKS. 385
greatest variety of fine fruit, and pulque, which is particularly
good in this neighbourhood. They also make here a quantity of
excellent cheese.
After dinner they proceeded to amuse us with the colear of the
buhs, of which amusement the Mexicans throughout the whole
Repubhc are passionately fond. They cohect a herd, single out
several, gahop after them on horseback ; and he who is most skilful,
catches the bull by the tail, passes it under his own right leg, turns
it round the high pummel of his saddle, and wheeling his horse
round at right angles by a sudden movement, the buh falls on his
face. Even boys of ten years old joined in this sport. It is no
Wonder that the Mexicans are such centaurs, seeming to form part
and parcel of their horses, accustomed as they are from childhood to
these dangerous pastimes. This is very dangerous, since the horses'
legs constantly get entangled with those of the falhng bull, which
throws both horse and rider. Manifold are the accidents which
result from it, but they are certainly not received as warnings; and
after ah, such sports, where there is nothing bloody, nor even cruel,
saving the thump which the buh gets, and the mortification which
he no doubt feels, but from both of which he soon recovers; and
which are mere games of skill, trials of address — are manly and
Strengthening, and help to keep up the physical superiority of that
fine race of men — the Mexican rancheros.
The next day we parted from our travelling companions, the
Count de B  and Mr. W  , who are on their way to the fair
of San Juan, and are from thence going to Tepic, even to the
shores of the Pacific Ocean. Unfortunately, our time is hmited,
and we cannot venture on so distant an expedition; but we greatly
regretted separating from such pleasant compagnons de voyage. We
spent the morning in walking about the hacienda, seeing cheese
made, and visiting the handsome chapel, the splendid stone grana
ries, the great mihs, &c. We also hope to spend, some time here on
our return. By letters received this morning from Mexico, we find
that Sefior Gomez Pedraza has left the ministry.
, As we had but six leagues to ride in order to reach Morelia, we
did not leave San Bartolo tih four in the afternoon, and enjoyed a
pretty ride through a ferthe and weh-wooded country, the road
good and the evening' dehghtful. As the sun set, milhons and tens
of milhons of ducks, in regular ranks and regiments, darkening the
ah, flew over our heads, changing their quarters from one lake to
another. Morelia is celebrated for the purity of its atmosphere and
the exceeding beauty of its sky; and this evening upheld its repu
tation. Toward sunset, the whole western horizon was covered
with myriads of httle lilac and gold clouds, floating in every fan
tastic form over the bright blue of the heavens. The lilac deep
ened into purple, blushed into rose-colour, brightened into crimson.
The blue of the sky assumed that green tint pecuhar to an Itahan
sunset. The sun himself appeared a globe of hving flame. Gra-

386 HILL OF LAS BATE AS.
dually he sank in a blaze of gold and crimson, while the horizon
remained hghted as by the flame from a volcano. Then his bril
liant retinue of clouds, after blazing for a while in borrowed splen
dour, melted gradually into every rainbow hue and tinge ; from deep
crimson to rose-colour and pink and pale violet and faint blue, float
ing in silvery vapour, until they all blended into one soft gray tinge,
wlfich swept over the whole western sky. But then the fuh moon
rose in cloudless serenity, and at length we heard, faintly, then
more distinctly, and then in all its deep and sonorous harmony, the
tolhng of the cathedral bell, which announced our Aacinity to a great
city. It has a singular effect, after travelling for some days through
a wild country, seeing nothing but a sohtary hacienda, or an Indian
hut, to enter a fine city like Morelia, which seems to have started
up as by magic in the midst of the wilderness, yet bearing ah the
traces of a venerable old age. By moonhght, it looked like a pano
rama of Mexico; with a fine square, portales, cathedral, broad
streets and good houses. We rode through the city, to the house
of Colonel Y  , where we now are ; but as we intend to continue
our journey to its furthest hmits without stopping, we are now,
after a night's rest, preparing to resume our ride. They are saddling
the horses, strapping on the sarapes behind the saddles, taking dovm.
and packing up our lits de voyage, and loading the mules, all which
is a work of time. On our return we hope to remain here a few
days, to see everything that is worthy of notice. Pascuaro.
Accompanied by several gentlemen of Moreha, who came early in
the morning to see C— — n, we set off for the warm baths of
Cuincho ; and as we rode along, the hih of Las Bateas was pointed
out to us, where, by order of the Curate Morelos, two hundred
Spaniards were murdered in cold blood, to revenge the death of his
friend, the Curate Matamoros, who was taken prisoner and shot by
orders of Yturbide. Horrible cruelty in a Christian priest ! It is
singular, that the great leaders of the independence should have
been ecclesiastics; the Curate Hidalgo its prime mover, the Curates
Morelos and Matamoros the principal chiefs. Hidalgo, it is said,
had no plan, pubhshed no manifesto, declared no opinions; but
rushed from city to city at the head of his men, displaying on his
colours an image of the Virgin of Guadalupe, and inciting his troops
to massacre the Spaniards. Morelos was an Indian, uneducated, but
brave and enterprising, and considered the mildest and most mer
ciful of these soldier priests ! Matamoros, equally brave, was better
informed. Both were good generals, and both misused the power
which their position gave them over the minds of the unenlight
ened populace. When Morelos became generahssimo of the revo
lutionary forces, he took a step fatal to his interests, and which led
to his ultimate ruin. He formed a congress, which met at Chilpan-
singo,_ and was composed of lawyers and clergymen; ignorant and
ambitious men, who employed themselves in pubhshing absurd

THE BATHS. 387
decrees and impossible laws, in assigning salaries to themselves, and
giving each other the title of Excellency. Disputes and divisions
arose amongst them; and, in 1814, they pubhshed an absurd and
useless document in the vihage of Apatzingan, to which they gave
the name of the " Mexican Constitution." The following year,
Morelos was defeated in an engagement which took place in the
environs of Tesmelaca, taken prisoner, led to Mexico, and, after a
short trial, degraded from his ecclesiastical functions, and shot in
the vihage of San Cristobal Ecatepec, seven leagues from the capital.
The revolutionary party considered him as a martyr in the cause of
liberty, and he is said to have died hke a true hero. The appella
tion of Moreha, given to the city of Vahadohd, keeps his name in
remembrance, but her blood-stained mountain is a more lasting
record of his cruelty.
• A vile action is recorded of a Spaniard, whose name, which de
serves to be branded with infamy, escapes me at this moment. The
soldiers of Morelos having come in search of him, he, standing at his
door, pointed out his brother, who was in a room inside the house, as
the person whom they sought; and escaped himself, leaving his bro
ther to be massacred in his place. We contrasted the conduct of this
miserable wretch with the noble action of the Prince de Pohgnac,
under similar circumstances.
At half-past ten. after a pleasant ride of about five leagues, we ar
rived at the natural hot springs of Cuincho. The place is quite wild,
the scenery very striking. The building consists of two very large
baths, two very damp rooms, and a kitchen. The baths are kept by
a very infirm old man, a martyr to intermittent fever, and two re
markably handsome girls, his daughters, who hve here completely
alone, and, except in summer, when the baths are resorted to by a
number of canonigos and occasional gentlemen from Moreha, " waste
their sweetness on the desert air." The house, such as it is, hes at
the foot of rocky hills, covered with shrubs, and pouring down streams
of hot water from their volcanic bosoms. All the streams that cross
your path are warm. You step by chance into a httle streamlet, and
find the water of a most agreeable temperature. They put _ this water
in earthen jars to cool, in order to render it fit for drinking, but it
never becomes fresh and cold. It contains muriatic acid, without
any trace of sulphur or metalhc salt. I think it is Humboldt who
supposes that in this part of Mexico there exists, at a great depth m
the interior of the earth, a fissure running from east to west, for one
hundred and thirty-seven leagues, through which, bursting the ex
ternal crust of the porphyritic rocks, the volcanic fire has opened
itself a passage at different times, from the coasts of the Mexican
Gulf, as far as the South Sea. The famous volcano of Joruho is
in this department, and boihng fountains are common in various
parts of it. „ .
We stopped here to take a bath, and found the temperature of the
water delicious, about the ordinary temperature of the human body.
2 D

388 LANCERS.
The baths are rather dark, being enclosed in great stone wahs, Avith
the hght coming from a very smah aperture near the roof. A bird,
that looked hke a wild duck, was sailing about in the largest one,
having made its entry along with the water when it was^ let in. I
never bathed in any water which I so much regretted leaving. After
bathing, we waited for the arrival of our mules, which were to fohow
us at a gentle pace, that we might have breakfast, and continue our
journey to Pascuaro, a city nine leagues further.
But several hours passed away, and no mules appeared; and at
length we came to the grievous conviction that the arrieros had mis
taken the road, and that we must expect neither food nor beds that
night ; for it was now too late to think of reaching Pascuaro. In this
extremity, the gentlemen from Moreha suffering for their pohteness
in having escorted us, the two damsels of the bath, naiads of the
boihng spring, pitying our hungry condition, came to offer their ser-
Arices; and one asked me if I should hke " to eat a burro in the mean
time?" A burro being an ass, I was rather startled at the propo
sition, and assured her that I should infinitely prefer waiting a httle
longer, before resorting to so desperate a measure. " Some people
cah them pecadoras," said her sister, (female sinners !) Upon this,
the gentlemen came to our assistance, and burros or pecadoras were
ordered forthwith. They proved to be hot tortillas, with cheese in
them, and we found them particularly good. It grew late, but no
mules arrived; and at length the young ladies and theh father rushed
out desperately, caught an old hen that was wandering amongst the
hills, killed, skinned, and put it into a pot to boil, baked some fresh
tortihas, and brought us the spoil in triumph 1 One penknife was pro
duced — the boiling pan placed on a deal table in the room off the
bath, and every one, surrounding the fowl, a tough old creature, who
must have clucked through many revolutions, we ate by turns, and
concluded with a comfortable drink of lukewarm water.
We then tried to beguile the time by chmbing amongst the hills
at the back of the house — by pushing our way through the tangled
briers — by walking to a httle lake, where there were ducks and
waterfowl, and close to the margin, a number of fruit trees. We
returned to the baths — the mules had. not been heard of — there was
no resource but patience. Our Morehan friends left us, to return
home before it should grow dusk ; and shortly after, an escort of
twenty-three lancers, with a captain, arrived by orders of the go
vernor, Don Panfilo Gafiudo, to accompany us during the remainder
of our journey. They looked very picturesque, with their lances,
and httle scarlet flags, and gave a very formidable aspect to the httle
portico in front of the baths, where they deposited all their military
accoutrements — their saddles, guns, sarapes, &c. The captain had
with him his wife and daughter, and a baby of about two years old,
which, during ah the time they were with us, was constantly carried
by one of the soldiers, with the utmost care, in front of his horse.
Meanwhile, the moon rose, and we walked about disconsolate, in

STRAYED MULES. 389
front of the baths — fearing greatly that some accident might have
overtaken our unescorted mules and servants; that the first might be
robbed— and that the drivers might be killed. But it was as well to
try to sleep if it were only to get over the interminable night; and at
length some clean straw was procured, and spread in a corner of the
damp floor. There K  and I lay down in our mangas. C  n
procured another corner— Colonel Y  a third, and then and thus,
we addressed ourselves seriously to repose, but in vain. Between
cold and mosquitoes and other animals, we could not close our eyes,
and were thankful to rise betimes, shake the straw off, and resume
our march.
The road was pretty and flowery when the hght came in, and we
graduahy began to open our eyes, after taking leave of our fair host
esses and their father. When I say the road, you do not, I trust,
imagine us riding along a dusty highway. I am happy to say that
we are generahy the discoverers of our own pathways. Every man
his own Columbus. Sometimes we take short cuts, which prove to
be long rounds; " Over hill, over dale,
Through bush, through brier;"
through vahey and over stream; and this kind of journey has some
thing in it so independent and amusing, that with ah its fatigues and
inconveniences, we find it dehghtful — far preferable even to travelhng
in the most commodious London-built carriage, bowhng along the
Queen's highway with four swift posters, at the rate of twelve miles
an hour.
Arrived at some huts, we stopped to make inquiries concerning the
mules. Two loaded mules, the peasants said, had been robbed in the
night, and the men tied to a tree, on the low road leading to Pas
cuaro. We rode on uneasy enough, and at another hut were told
that many robbers had been out in the night, and that amongst others,
a woman had been robbed, and bound hand and foot. The road now
became bleak and uninteresting, the sun furiously hot, and we rode
forward with various misgivings as to the fate of the party ; when at
a cluster of huts cahed el Correo, we came up with the whole concern,
The arrieros had forgotten the name of Cuincho, and not knowing
where to go, had stopped here the previous night, knowing that we
were bound for Pascuaro, and must pass that way. They had arrived
early, and missed the robbers.
We stopped to breakfast at some huts cahed La Puerta de Cha-
pnltepec, where we got some tortillas from a half-caste Indian, who
was in great distress, because his wife had run off from him for the
fourth time, with " another gentleman !" He vowed that though he
had taken her back three times, he never would receive her more;
yet I venture to say, that when the false fair one presents herself, she
will find him placable; he is evidently in such distress at having no
woman to take care of his house.
2 D2

390 PASCUARO.
After leaving Chapultepec, the scenery improves, and at length we
had a beautiful view of the hills, at the foot of which hes the ancient
city of Tzintzontzan, close by the opposite shore of the Lake of
Pascuaro ; formerly capital of the independent kingdom of Michoacan,
an important city, and called in the time of Cortes, Hurtzitzila. It
was formerly the residence of the monarch, King Calsonsi, an ally
of Cortes, and who, with his Indian subjects, assisted him in his
Mexican war. It is now a poor Indian vihage, though it is said that
some remains of the monarch's palace stih exist. Apropos to which,
we have several times observed, since we entered this state, large.
stones lying in fields, or employed in fences, with strange hieroglyphic
-characters engraved on them, some of Avhich may be curious and
interesting. The view as we approach Pascuaro, with its beautiful lake, stud-
•ded with httle islands, is very fine. The bells were tolhng, and
they were letting off rockets for some Indian festival, and we met
parties of the natives who had been keeping the festival upon pulque
or mezcal, (a strong spirit) and were stumbling along in great glee.
We came up to an old church, that looks hke a bird's-nest amongst
the trees, and stands at the outskirts of the city. Here, it is said, his
Majesty of Michoacan came out to meet his Spanish ally, when he
entered this territory.
Pascuaro is a pretty httle city with sloping roofs, situated on the
shores of the lake of the same name, and in front of the httle Indian
vihage of Janicho, built on a beautiful small island in the midst of "
the lake. C  n says that Pascuaro resembles a town in Catalonia.
It is entirely unlike any other Mexican city. We made a great sen
sation as we entered with our lancers and mules, tired and dust-
becovered as we were, and brought ah the Pascuaranians to theh
balconies. We passed churches bearing the date of 1580 ! We went
to the largest and best house in the town, that of Don Miguel
H  -a (a friend of Colonel Y  's). He was from home, but we
were most hospitably entertained by his wife, who received us with
out any unnecessary ceremony or compliments, and made us quite at
home. We walked out with her by moonlight, to see the Square
and the Portales, which is a promenade in the evening, and were
fohowed by crowds of little boys ; strangers being rather an uncommon
spectacle here. The only foreign lady, Dofia  , says, whoever.
was here in her recollection, was a Frenchwoman, to whom she was
very much attached, the daughter of a physician, and whose husband
was murdered by the robbers.
This morning, the weather being cold and rainy, and our quarters
too agreeable to leave in any violent haste, we agreed to remain until
to-morrow, and have spent a pleasant day in this fine laro-e house
with Dofia  , and her numerous and handsome children. We
have not been able to visit the lake, or the Indian islands, on account
of the weather, but Ave hope to do so on our return from Uruapa,

CELEBRATED ROBBER. 391
our next destination. Our hostess is a most agreeable person; lively,
kind-hearted, and full of natural talent. We did not expect to meet
such a person in this corner of the world.
The first bishop of Michoacan, Vasco de Quiroga, who died in
Uruapa, was buried in Pascuaro, and the Indians of this state stih
venerate his memory. He was the father and benefactor of these
Tarrascan Indians, and went far to rescue them from their degraded
state. He not only preached morahty, but encouraged industry
amongst them, by assigning to each village its particular branch of
commerce. Thus one was celebrated for its manufacture of saddles,
another for its shoes, a third for its bateos (painted trays), and so on.
Every useful institution, of which some traces stih remain amongst
them, is due to this excehent prelate ; an example of what one good
and zealous and well-judging man can effect.
We have been taking another stroll by moonhght, the rain having
ceased ; we have hngered over a pleasant supper, and have wished
Dofia  good-night. Yet let me not forget, before laying down
my pen, to celebrate the excellence of the white fish from the lake !
so greatly surpassing in excellence and flavour those which we occa
sionahy have in Mexico. These no doubt must have constituted
" the provisions," which, according to tradition, were carried by
regular running posts, from Tzintzontzan to Montezuma's palace in
Mexico, and with such expedition, that though the distance is
about one hundred leagues, they were placed, stih smoking, on the
Emperor's table ! Uruapa, 30th.
We went to mass at six o'clock; and then took leave of the Sefiora
H  a, who gave us a cordial invitation to spend some days with
her on our return. It was about eight o'clock when we left Pas
cuaro, and mounted the hills over which our road lay, and stopped to
look down on the beautiful lake, lying like a sheet of silver in the
sun, and dotted with green islands.
Two disagreeable personages were added to our party. Early in
the morning, intelligence was brought that a celebrated robber,
named Morales, captain of a large band, had been seized along with
one of his companions ; and permission was requested to take advan
tage of our large escort, in order that they may be safely conducted
to Uruapa, where they are to be shot, being aheady condemned to
death. The punishment of hanging is not in use in Mexico.
The first thing therefore that Ave saw, on mounting our horses,
was the two robbers, chained together by the leg, guarded by five of
our lancers, and prepared to accompany us on foot. _ The companion
of Morales was a young, vulgar-looking ruffian, his face livid, and
himself nearly naked ; but the robber-captain himself was equal to
any of Salvator's brigands, in his wild and striking figure and coun
tenance. He wore a dark-coloured blanket, and a black hat, the
broad leaf of which was slouched over his face, which was the colour

392 SIGNAL GUN.
of death, while his eyes seemed to belong to a tiger or other beast of
prey. I never saw such a picture of fierce misery. Strange to say,
this man began life as a shepherd; but how he was induced to
abandon this pastoral occupation, we did not hear. For years he has
been the scourge of the country, robbing to an unheard of extent,
(so that whatever he may have done with them, tens of thousands of
dohars have passed through his hands,) carrying off the farmers'
daughters to the mountains, and at the head of eighty ruffians, com
mitting the most horrible disorders. His last crime was murdering
his wife in the mountains, the night before last, under circumstances
of barbarity too shocking to relate, and it is supposed, assisted by
the wretch now with him. After committing the crime, they ran
to hide themselves in an Indian village, as the Indians, probably
from fear, never betray the robbers. However, their horror of this
man was so great, that perfect hate cast out their fear, and collecting
together, they seized the ruffians, bound them, and carried them to
Pascuaro, where they were instantly tried, and condemned to be
shot; the sentence to be executed at Uruapa.
The sight of these miserable wretches, and the idea of what their
feelings must be, occupied us, as they toiled along, each step bring
ing them nearer to their place of execution ; and we could not help
thinking what wfld wishes must have sometimes, throbbed within
them, of breaking theh bonds, and dashing away from their guards —
away through the dark woods, over mountain and river, down that
almost perpendicular precipice, over the ravine, up that green and
smiling hih, and into these gloomy pine woods, in whose untrod
recesses they would be secure from pursuit — and then their despair
when they felt the heavy, clanking chain on their bare feet, and
looked at the lances and guns that surrounded them, and knew that
even if they attempted to fly, could they be insane enough to try it,
a dozen buhets would stop their career for ever. Then horror and
disgust at the recohection of theh savage crimes took the place of
pity, and not even  's suggestion, that the robber-chief might
have killed his wife in a transport of jealousy, could lessen our indig
nation at this last most barbarous murder of a defenceless woman.
But these thoughts took away half the pleasure of tlfis most beau
tiful journey, through wild woods, Avhere for leagues and leagues
we meet nothing but the fatal cross; while through these woods of
larches, cedars, oaks, and pines, are bright vistas of distant pasture-
fields, and of lofty mountains covered with forests. Impossible to
conceive a greater variety of beautiful scenery — a greater waste of
beauty, if one may say so — for not even an Indian hut was to be
seen, nor did we meet a single passing human being, nor a trace of
cultivation. As we came out of the woods we heard a gun fired
amongst the hills, the first token of human life that had greeted us
since we left Pascuaro. This, Sefior  told us, was the signal-
gun usually fired by the Indians on the approach of an armed troop,

CURU. 393
warning their brethren to hide themselves. Here the Indians rarely
speak Spanish, as those do who hve in the neighbourhood of cities.
Their language is chiefly the harmonious Tarrascan.
Towards the afternoon we came to a path which led us into a
valley of the most surpassing beauty, entirely carpeted with the
lovefiest blue, white, pink, and scarlet Avild flowers, and clothed
with natural orchards of peach and apricot trees in full bloom, the
grass strewed with their rich blossoms. Below ran a sparkhng rivulet,
its bright gushing waters leaping over the stones and pebbles that
shone in the sun hke silver. Near this are some huts called Las
Palomas, and it was so charming a spot, that we got off our horses,
and halted for half an hour ; and while they prepared breakfast for
us, a basket of provisions from Pascuaro having been brought on by
the provident care of Dofia  . we clambered out amongst the
rocks and luxuriant trees that dipped their leafy branches in the
stream, and pulled wild flowers that would grace any European
garden. Having breakfasted in one of the huts, upon fowl and tortillas,
on which memorable occasion two penknives were produced (and I
still wonder why we did not bring some knives and forks with us,
unless it be that we should never have had them cleaned), we con
tinued our journey:, and this mention of knives leads me to remark,
that ah common servants in Mexico, and ah common people, eat
with their fingers ! Those who are rather particular roll up two
tortillas, and use them as knife and fork, which, I can assure you
from experience, is a great deal better than nothing, when you have
learnt how to use them.
Our road after this, though even wilder and more picturesque,
was very fatiguing to the horses — up and down steep rocks, among
forests of oak and pine, through which we slowly wended our way;
so that it was dark when we descended a precipitous path, leading
to a small Indian vihage, or rather encampment, cahed Curu. It
was now too late to think of reaching Uruapa, or of venturing to chmb
by night the series of precipices called the Cuesta de Curu, over
which we should have had to pass. But such a place as Curu for
Christians to pass the night in ! A few miserable huts fihed with
Indians, and not, so far as we could discern, even an empty shed,
where we might rest under cover. However, there was no remedy.
The arriero had already unloaded his mules, and was endeavouring
to find some provender for them and the poor horses. It was quite
dark, but there was a dehcious fragrance of orange-blossoms, and
we groped our way up to the trees, and pulled some branches by
way of consolation. At length an old wooden barn was discovered,
and there the beds of the whole party were put up ! We even con
trived to get some boihng water, and to have some tea made — an
article of luxury which, as well as a teapot, we carry with us. We
sat down upon our trunks, and a piece of candle was procured and
lighted, and, after some difficulty, made to stand upright on the

394 HILL OF CURU.
floor. The barn, made of logs, let the air in on ah sides, and the
pigs thrust their snouts in at every crevice, grunting harmoniously.
Outside, in the midst of the encampment, the soldiers hghted a
large fire, and sat round it roasting maize. The robbers sat amongst
them, chained, Avith a soldier mounting guard beside them. _ The
fire, flashing on the livid face of Morales, who, crouched in his
blanket, looked hke a tiger about to spring — the soldiers, some
warming theh hands at the blaze, some lying rohed in their sarapes,
and others devouring their primitive supper — together with the
Indian women bringing them hot tortillas from the huts — the whole
had a curious and picturesque effect. As for us, we also rohed our
selves in our mangas, and lay down in our barn, but passed a miser
able night. The pigs grunted, the mosquitoes sung, a cold ah blew
in from every corner; and, fortunately, we were not unth morning
aware of the horrid fact, that a Avhole nest of scorpions, with then-
tails twisted together, were reposing above our heads in the log wah.
Imagine the condition of the unfortunate slumberer on whose devoted
head they had descended en masse ! In spite of the fragrant orange-
blossom, we were glad to set off early the next morning. Uruapa.
On leaving the fascinating village of Curu, we began to ascend
La Cuesta ; and travelled slowly four leagues of mountain-road, ap-
Siarently inaccessible; but the sure-footed horses, though stepping on
oose and nearly precipitous rocks, rarely stumbled. The mountain
of Curu is volcanic, a chaos of rent rocks, beethng precipices, and
masses of lava that have been disgorged from the burning crater.
Yet from every crag and crevice of the rock spring the most magni
ficent trees, twisted with flowering parasites, shrubs of the brightest
green, and pale delicate flowers, whose gentle hues seem ah out of
place in this savage scene. Beside the forest oak and the stern pine,
the tree of the white blossoms, the gxacefhl floripundio, seems to seek
for shelter and support. Creepers that look like scarlet honeysuckles,
and flowering vines of every variety of colour, hang in bright gar
lands and festoons, intwining the boughs of the trees; adorning, but
not concealing the masses of bare rock and the precipitous crag that
frowns amidst ah this luxury of vegetation. The whole scene is
" horribly beautiful."
As we wound through these precipitous paths, where only one can
go at a time, our train stretched out to an immense distance, and the
scarlet streamers and lances of the soldiers looked very picturesque,
appearing and then vanishing amongst the rocks and trees. At one
part, looking back to see the effect, I. caught the eye of the robber
Morales, glaring with such a frightful expression, that, forgetful of his
chains, I whipped up my horse, in the greatest consternation, over
stones and rocks. He and the scene were in perfect unison.
At length we came to the end of this extraordinary mountain-
forest, and after resting the tired horses for a httle while, in a grove

JORULLO. 395
of pines and yellow acacias, entered the most lovely httle wood, a
succession of flowers and shrubs, and bright green grass, with vistas
of fertile cornfields bordered by fruit trees — a peaceful scene, on
which the eye rests with pleasure, after passing through these wild,
volcanic regions.
On leaving the woods, the path skirts along by the side of these
fields, and leads to the valley where Uruapa, the gem of Indian
vihages, hes in tranquil beauty. It has indeed some tolerable streets
and a few good houses ; but her boast is in the Indian cottages — all
so clean and snug, and tasteful, and buried in fruit trees.
We rode through shady lanes of trees, bending under the weight
of oranges, chirimoyas, granaditas, platanos, and every sort of deli
cious fruit. We found that, through the kindness of Seiior Ysasaga,
the principal person here, the curate's house had been prepared to
receive us — an old unfurnished house next the church, and at
present unoccupied, its owner being absent. We found the whole
family extremely kind and agreeable ; the father a weh-informed,
pleasant old gentleman, the mother still beautiful, though in bad
health ; and ah the daughters pretty and unaffected. One is married
to a brother of Madame Yturbide's. They made many apologies for
not inviting us to their own house, which is under repair; but as it
is but a few steps off, we shall spend most of our time with them.
It seems strange to meet such people in this secluded spot ! Yet,
peaceful and sohtary as it appears, it has not escaped the rage of
civil war, having been burnt down four different times by insurgents
and by Spaniards. Sefior Ysasaga, who belongs to Valladohd, has
taken an active part in all the revolutions, having been the personal
friend and partisan of Hidalgo. His escapes and adventures would
fill a volume.
I could not help taking one last look of the robbers, as we
entered this beautiful place, where Morales at least is to be shot. It
seemed to me that they had grown perfectly deathlike. The poor
wretches must be tired enough, having come on foot ah the way
from Pascuaro.
31st. — This place is so charming, we have determined to pitch
our tent in it for a few days. Our intention was to proceed twenty
leagues further, to see the volcano of Jorullo ; but as the road is
described to us as being entirely devoid of shade, and the heat
almost insupportable — with various other difficulties and drawbacks,
— we have been induced, though with great regret, _ to abandon the
undertaking, which it is as tantalizing to do, as it is to reflect that
yesterday we were but a short distance from a hill which is but
thirty leagues from the Pacific Ocean.
In 1813, M. de Humboldt and M. Bonpland, ascended to the
crater of this burning mountain, which was formed in September,
1759. Its birth was announced by earthquakes, which put to flight
all the inhabitants of the neighbouring villages; and three months
after, a terrible eruption burst forth, which filled all the inhabitants

396 ERUPTION.
with astonishment and terror, and which Hmnboldt considers one of
the most extraordinary physical revolutions that ever took place on
the surface of the globe.
Flames issued from the earth for the space of more than a square
league. Masses of burning rock were thrown to an immense height,
and through a thick cloud of ashes, ihuminated by the volcanic fire,
the whitened crust of the earth was seen gradually swelhng up. The
ashes even covered the roofs of the houses at Queretaro, forty-eight
leagues distance ! and the rivers of San Andres and Cuitumba sank
into the burning masses. The flames were seen from Pascuaro; and
from the hills of Agua-Zarca was beheld the birth of this volcanic
mountain, the burning offspring of an earthquake, which, bursting
from the bosom of the earth, changed the whole face of the
country, for a considerable distance round.
; And now, the glee

Of the loud hills shakes with its mountain mirth,
As if they did rejoice o'er a young earthquake's birth."
Here the earth returned that salutation, and shook, though it was
with fearful mirth, at the birth of the young volcano.
In a letter written at the time of this event to the bishop of Mi-
chioacan by the curate of the neighbouring vihage, he says, that the
eruption finished by destroying the hacienda of Jorullo, and killing
the trees, which were thrown down and buried in the sand and ashes
vomited by the mountain. The fields and roads were, he says,
covered with sand, the crops destroyed, and the flocks perishing for
want of food, unable to drink the pestilential water of the mountains.
The rivulet that ran past his vihage was swelled to a mighty river, that
threatened to inundate it ; and he adds, that the houses, churches, and
hospitals are ready to fall down from the weight of the sand and the
ashes — and that " the very people are so covered with the sand, that
they seem to have come out of some sepulchre." The great eruptions
of the volcano continued tih the following year, but have gradually
become rarer, and at present have ceased.
Having now brought our journey to its furthest limits, I shall
conclude this letter.

397

LETTER THE FIFTIETH.
Indian Dresses — Saints — Music — Union of Tropical and European Vegetation
— Old Customs — Falls of the Sararaqui — Silkworms — Indian Painting —
Beautiful Heroine — Leave Uruapa — Tziracuaratiro — Talkative Indian —
Alcalde's House— Pascuaro— Old Church— Mosaic Work— The Lake— The
Cave — Fried Fish — Rich Indians — Convent — Cuincho — Darkness— Morelia
— Alameda— Cathedral — Silver — Waxworks — College— Wonderful Fleas.
Uruapa, 31st.
The dress of the Indian women of Uruapa is pretty, and they are
altogether a much cleaner and better-looking race than we have yet
seen. They wear " naguas," a petticoat of black cotton with a narrow
white and blue stripe, made very full, and rather long; over this, a
sort of short chemise made of coarse, white cotton, and embroidered
in different coloured silks. It is called the sutunacua — over all is a
black reboso, striped with white and blue, with a handsome silk fringe
of the same colours. When they are married, they add a white em
broidered veil, and a remarkably pretty coloured mantle the huepilli,
which they seem to pronounce guipil. The hair is divided, and falls
down behind in two long plaits, fastened at the top by a bow of
ribbon and a flower. In this dress there is no alteration from what
they wore in former days; saving that the women of a higher class
wore a dress of finer cotton with more embroidery, and a loose gar
ment over ah, resembhng a priest's surphce, when the weather was
cold. Among the men, the introduction of trousers is Spanish —
but they stih wear the majilatl, a broad belt, with the ends tied
before and behind, and the tilmatli or tilma as they now call it, a sort
of square short cloak, the ends of which are tied across the breast, or
over one shoulder. It is on a coarse tilma of this description that
the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe was found painted.
Yesterday, being the festival of San Andres, the Indians were all
in fuh costume and procession, and we went into the old church to
see them. They were carrying the Saint in very fine robes, the
women bearing coloured flags and hghted tapers, and the men
playing on violins, flutes, and drums. Ah had garlands of flowers to
hang on the altars; and for these hghts and ornaments, and silk and
tinsel robes, they save up all their money. They were playing a,
pretty air, but I doubt its being original. It was not melancholy and
monotonous, hke the generality of Indian music, but had something
wild and gay in it; it was probably Spanish. The organ was
played by an Indian. After mass we went up stairs to try it, and
wondered how, with such miserable means, he had produced any
thing hke music. In the patio, between the curate's house and the
church, are some very brihiant large scarlet flowers, which they call

398 FALLS OF THE SARARAQUI.
here " fior del pastor," the shepherd's flower; a beautiful kind of
euphorbia; and in other places, " fior de noche buena," flower of
Christmas-eve. Last evening we walked out in the environs of this garden of
Eden, by the banks of the river Marques, amidst a most extraordinary
union of tropical and European vegetation ; the hills covered with
firs and the plains with sugar-cane. We walked amongst bananas,
shaddock, chirimoyas, and orange-trees, and but a few yards higher
up, bending over and almost touching them, were groves of oak and
pine. The river pursues its bright unwearied course through this
enchanting landscape, now falling in cascades, now winding placidly
at the foot of the silent hills and among the dark woods, and in one
part forming a most beautiful natural bath, by pouring its waters
into an enclosure of large, smooth, flat stones, overshadowed by
noble trees.
A number of the old Indian customs are stih kept up here, modi
fied by the introduction of Christian doctrines, in theh marriages,
feasts, burials, and superstitious practices. They also preserve the
same simplicity in their dress, united with the same vanity and love
of show in their ornaments, which always distinguished them. The
poorest Indian woman stih wears a necklace of red coral, of a dozen
rows of red beads, and their dishes are still the gicalli, or, as they
were cahed by the Spaniards, gicaras, made of a species of gourd, or
rather a fruit resembling it, and growing on a low tree, which fruit
they cut in two, each one furnishing two dishes; the inside is scooped
out, and a durable varnish given it by means of a mineral earth, of
different bright colours, generahy red. On the outside they paint
flowers, and some of them are also gilded. They are extremely
pretty, very durable and ingenious. The beautiful colours which
they employ in painting these gicaras are composed not only of various
mineral productions, but of the wood, leaves, and flowers of certain
plants, of whose properties they have no despicable knowledge.
Theh own dresses, manufactured by themselves of cotton, are ex
tremely pretty, and many of them very fine.
December 1st. — We rode out early this morning, and passing
through the lanes bordered with fruit trees, and others covered with
blossoms of extraordinary beauty, of whose names I only know the
floripundio, ascended into the pine woods, fragrant and gay with wild
thyme and bright flowers; the river falling in small cascades among
the rocks. After riding along these heights for about two leagues,
we arrived at the edge of a splendid valley of oaks. Here we were
obhged to dismount, and to make our way on foot down the longest,
steepest, and most slippery of paths, winding in rapid descent through
the woods; with the prospect of being repaid for our toil, by the
sight of the celebrated Falls of the Sararaqui. After having de
scended to the foot of the oak-covered mountain, we came to a great
enclosure of lofty rocks, prodigious natural bulwarks, through a great
cavern in which the river comes thundering and boihng into the

GICARAS. 399
vahey, forming the great cascade of the Sararaqui, wlfich in the
Tarrascan language means sieve. It is a very fatiguing descent, but
it is worth while to make the whole journey from Mexico, to see
any thing so wildly grand. The falls are from fifty to sixty feet high,
and of great volume. The rocks are covered with shrubs and flowers,
with small jets of water issuing from every crevice. One lovely
flower, that looks as if it were formed of small white and rose-coloured
shells, springs out of the stones near the water. There are rattle
snakes among the woods, and wild boars have occasionahy been seen.
The Seiioritas Y  , when children, two or three years ago, wan
dering among these mountain-paths, saw an immense rattlesnake
coiled up, and tempted by its gaudy colours, were about to lift it,
when it suddenly wakened from its slumber, uncoiled itself, and
swiftly ghded up the path before them, its rattles sounding all the
way up amongst the hills.
We sat beside the fahs for a long while, looking at the boihng,
hissing, bubbhng, foaming waters, rolhng down headlong with such
impetuous velocity that one could hardly beheve they form part of
the same placid stream, which flows so gently between its banks,
when no obstacles oppose it; and at all the httle silvery threads of
water, that formed mimic cascades among the rocks; but at length
we were obliged to recommence our toilsome march up the shppery
mountain. We were accompanied by several officers — amongst others,
by the commandant of Uruapa.
Sefior  says that they are at present occupied here at the in
stigation of a Frenchman, named Genould, in planting a large col
lection of mulberry-trees, (which prosper wonderfully well in this
climate) for the propagation of silkworms. But they have no facilities
for transport, and at what market could the silk be sold? There are
a thousand improvements wanting here, which would be more pro
fitable than this speculation. They have sugar, corn, maize,_ minerals,
wood, cotton, water for machinery; every valuable and important
produce, all requiring their more immediate attention. We had a
pleasant ride home, and when we got back amongst the lanes leading
to the village, stopped every moment to admire and wonder at the
rare and beautiful blossoms on the trees; and pulled branches of
flowers off them, more delicate and lovely than the rarest exotics in
an Enghsh hothouse.
2d. — This morning, the weather was damp and ramy, but in the
afternoon we took a long walk, and visited several Indian cottages,
all clean, and the walls hung with fresh mats, the floors covered with
the same; and all with their kitchen utensils of baked earth, neatly
hung on the wah, from the largest size in use, to little dishes and
jarritos in miniature, which are only placed there for ornament. We
also went to purchase gicaras, and to see the operation of making and
painting them, which is very curious. The flowers are not painted,
but inlaid. We were fortunate in procuring a good supply of the
prettiest, which cannot be procured anywhere else, We bought a

400 A HEROINE.
very pretty sutunacua, and a black reboso. The women were not
at all anxious to seh their dresses, as they make them with great
trouble, and preserve them with great care.
We had a beautiful walk to the Magdalena, abont a mile from the
village. Every day we discover new beauties in the environs. And
one beauty we saw on entering a smah rancho, where they were
painting gicaras at a table, while a woman lay in the shaking fever in
a bed adjoining, which was quite consistent with the place. This was
a lady, the proprietress of a good estate some leagues off, who was
seated on her own trunk, outside the door of the rancho. She was a
beautiful woman in her prime, the gentlemen said passee, and. per
haps at eighteen she may have been more charming stih; but now
she was a model for a Judith — or rather for a Joan of Arc, even
though sitting on her OAvn luggage. She was very fair, with large
black eyes, long eyelashes, and a profusion of hair as black as jet.
Her teeth were hterahy dazzling — her hps hke the reddest coral —
her colour glowing as the down upon a ripe peach. Her figure was
tall and fuh, with smah, beautifully-formed hands, and fine arms.
She rose as we came in, and begged us to be seated on a bench near
the door ; and with the unceremoniousness of travellers who meet in
outlandish places, we entered into conversation with her. She told
us her name, and her motives for travelling, and gave us an account
of an adventure she had had with robbers, of which she was weU
fitted to be the heroine. It appears that she was travelling with her
two sons, lads of fifteen and sixteen, when they arrived at this rancho
to rest for the night; for by this time you wih understand that those
who travel hereabouts must trust to chance or to hospitahty for a
night's lodging. To their surprise, they found the farmers gone,
theh dogs gone, and the house locked. They had no alternative
but to rest as they could, among their luggage and mules, in the yard
in front of the house. In the middle of the night they were attacked
by robbers. The boys instantly took their guns, and fired, but
without effect. Still, in the darkness, the robbers probably imagined
that there were more people and more arms, and when she, dragging
a loaded musket off one of the horses, prepared to join in the en
gagement, the cowardly ruffians took flight — a good hah dozen,
before a woman and two boys. She was particularly indignant at
the farmers, these " malditos rancheros," as she cahed them, who
she said had been bribed or frightened into withdrawing theh dogs
and themselves.
We returned home after along walk, in the dark and in the midst
of ah the howling, yelping, snarling, barking dogs, which rushed out
as we went by, from every cottage in Uruapa.
After supper they sent for a clever Indian girl, who understands
Spanish as weh as her native idiom, and who translated various Cas-
tihan words for us into the original Tarrascan, which sounds very
hquid and harmonious. To-morrow we shah leave Uruapa and this
hospitable family, whose kindness and attention to us we never can

INDIAN LANDS. 401
forget. It seems incredible that we have only known them a few
days. We have, however, the hopes of seeing them again as we pass
through Valladolid, where they intend removing in a few days.
Pascuaro, 4th December.
We left Uruapa yesterday morning at eleven o'clock, accompanied
part of the way by Sefior Ysasaga and other gentlemen, amongst
whom was Madame Yturbide's brother. We are now returning to
Moreha, but avoided Curu and the rocks, both to save our animals,
and for the sake of variety. We rode through large tracts of land,
ah belonging to the Indians. The day was agreeable and cloudy,
and the road, as usual, led us through beautiful scenery, monotonous
in description, but fuh of variety in fact. Though nearly uninha
bited, and almost entirely uncultivated, it has pleased nature to
lavish so much beauty on this part of the country, that there is nothing
melancholy in its aspect; no feehng of dreariness in riding a whole
day, league after league, without seeing a trace of human life. These
forest paths always appear as if they must, in time, lead to some ha
bitation; the woods, the groves, the clumps of trees, seem as if they
had been disposed, or at least beautified by the hand of art. We
cannot look on these smiling and flowery valleys, and beheve that
such lovely scenes are always untenanted — that there are no children
occasionally picking up these apricots — no village-girls to pluck these
bright, fragrant flowers. We fancy that they are out in the fields,
and wih be there in the evening, and that their hamlet is hid behind
the slope of the next hill; and it is only when we come to some
Indian hut, or cluster of poor cabins in the wilderness, that we are
startled by the conviction that this enchanting variety of hih and
plain, wood and water, is for the most part unseen by human eye,
and untrod by human footstep.
We had no further adventure during this day's journey than
buying bread and cheese from sheer hunger, at a httle wooden tavern
by the road-side, whose shelves were covered with ghttering rows of
bottles of brandy and mezcal. At some of the Indian huts also we
bought various bunches of platanos, that most useful of fruits, and
basis of the food of the poor inhabitants of all the tropical climates.
It has been said that the banana is not indigenous in America, and
that it. was brought over by a friar to Santo Domingo. If so, its
adopted country agrees with it better than its native land; but I
believe there are many traditions which go to prove that it did al
ready exist in this hemisphere before the sixteenth century, and that
the Spaniards did no more than increase the number of the already
indigenous species. Its nutritive quahties, and the wonderful facility
with which it is propagated, render it at once the most useful of
trees, and the greatest possible incentive to indolence. In .less than
one year after it is planted the fruit may be gathered, and the pro
prietor has but to cut away the old stems and leave a sucker, which
whl produce fruit three months after. There are different sorts of

402 PASCUARO.
bananas, and they are used in different ways; fresh, dried, fried, &c.
The dried plantain, a great branch of trade in Michoacan, with its
black shrivelled skin and flavour of smoked fish or ham, is exceed
ingly liked by the natives. It is, of ah Mexican articles of food, my
pecuhar aversion.
About four o'clock we arrived at the smah village of Tziracuaratiro,
a collection of Indian cottages, with httle gardens, surrounded by
orange and all manner of fruit trees. As we had. stih one or two
hours' of dayhght, and this was our next halting-place, we wandered
forth on foot to explore the environs, and found a beautiful shady
spot, a grassy knoll, sheltered by the surrounding woods, where we
sat down to rest and to inhale the balmy air, fragrant with orange-
blossom. We were amused by a sly-looking Indian, of whom C  n
asked some questions, and who was exceedingly talkative, giving us
an account of his whole menage, and especiahy praising beyond mea
sure his own exemplary conduct to his wife, from which I infer that
he beats her, as indeed ah Indians consider it their particular privi
lege to do ; and an Indian woman who complained to a padre of her
husband's neglect, mentioned, as the crowning proof of his utter
abandonment of her, that he had not given her a beating for a whole
fortnight. Some one asked him if he allowed his wife to govern
him. " Oh! no," said he, " that would be the mule leading the

amero

There was nothing to be seen in the vihage, of which it hardly
deserves the name, but a good-looking old church, which two old.
women were sweeping out ; but they told us they rarely had mass
there, as the padre lived a long way off. The alcalde permitted us
and our escort to occupy his house, consisting of three empty rooms
with mud floors ; and about seven the next morning we were again
on horseback, and again era route for Pascuaro; a pretty ride of eleven
or twelve leagues. We breakfasted at the vihage of Ajuna, in a clean
hut, where they gave us quantities of tortihas and chile, baked by
some very^ handsome tortilleras. A number of women were carrying
about a virgin ah covered with flowers, to the sound of a httle bell.
It was about four o'clock when we arrived at the hills near Pas
cuaro. Here we dismounted from our horses, and remained tih it
was nearly dusk, lying on the grass, and gazing on the lake, as the
shadows of evening stole slowly over its silver waters. Little by
httle the green islands became indistinct; a gray vapour concealed
the opposite shores; and like a hght breath spread graduahy over
the mirrored surface of the lake. Then we remounted our horses,
and rode down into Pascuaro, where we found the Sefiora H  a
as before, ready to receive us, and where, our mules being disabled,
we propose remaining one or two days.
5th— We have been spending a quiet day in Pascuaro, and went
to mass in the old church, which is handsome and rich in ghding.
At the door is printed in large letters — " For the love of God, ail
good Christians are requested not to spit in this holy place." If we

LAKE OF PASCUARO. 403
might judge from the observation of one morning, I should say that
the better classes in Pascuaro are fairer and have more colour than is
general in Mexico ; and if this is so, it may be owing partly to the
chmate being cooler and damper, and partly to their taking more
exercise (there being no carriages here), whereas in Mexico no
family of any importance can avoid having one.
We were very anxious to see some specimens of that mosaic- work
which all ancient writers upon Mexico have celebrated, and which was
nowhere brought to such perfection as in Pascuaro. It was made
with the most beautiful and dehcate feathers, chiefly of the pica-
flores, the humming-birds, which they called huitzitzilin. But we
are told that it is now upwards of twenty years since the last artist in
this branch lived in Pascuaro ; and though it is imitated by the
nuns, the art is no longer in the state of perfection to which it was
brought in the days of Cortes. We are told that several persons
were employed in each painting, and that it was a work requiring
extraordinary patience and nicety, in the blending of the colours;
and in the arrangement of the feathers. The sketch of the figure
was first made, and the proportions being measured, each artist took
charge of one particular part of the figure or of the drapery. When
each had finished his share, all the different parts were reunited, to
form the picture. The feathers were first taken up with some soft
substance with the utmost care, and fastened with a glutinous matter
iipon a piece of stuff; then, the different parts being reunited, were
placed on a plate of copper, and gently polished, till the surface
became quite equal, when they appeared hke the most beautiful
paintings, or, according to these writers, more beautiful from the
splendour and. hvehness of the colours, the bright golden, and blue,
and crimson tints, than the paintings which they imitated. Many
were sent to Spain, and to different museums both in Em-ope and
Mexico ; but the art is now nearly lost, nor does it belong to the
present utihtarian age. Our forefathers had more leisure than we,
and probably we have more than our descendants will have, who,
for aught we know, may by extra high-pressure be able to
" Put a girdle round about the earth in forty minutes."
¦ We, however, saw some few specimens of saints and angels, very
defective in the sketch, but beautiful in the colouring, and quite
sufficient to prove to us that there was no exaggeration in these
accounts. 7th. — We rode yesterday vto the shores of the lake, where we
embarked in a long canoe, formed of the hollow trunk of a tree,
and rowed by Indians, a peculiarly ugly race, with Tartar-looking
faces. The lake was very placid, clear as one vast mirror, and
covered with thousands of wild ducks, white egrets, cranes, and
herons — all those waterfowl who seem to whiten their plumage by
constant dipping in pools and marshes and lakes. On the opposite'
shore, to the right, lay the city of Tzinzunzan; and on a beautiful
2 E

404 TORTILLAS.
island in the midst of the lake the village of Janicho, entirely peopled
by Indians, who mingle httle with the dwehers on the mainland,
and have preserved their originality more than any we have yet seen.
We were accompanied by the prefect of Pascuaro, whom the Indians
fear and hate in equal ratio, and who did seem a sort of Indian Mr.
Bumble; and, after a long and pleasant row, we landed at the
island, where we were received by the village alcalde, a half-caste
Indian, who sported a pair of bright blue merino pantaloons ! I sup
pose to distinguish himseh from his blanketed brethren. The island
is entirely surrounded by a natural screen of willow and ash trees,
and the vihage consists of a few scattered houses, with smah culti
vated patches of ground, the alcalde's house, and an old church.
We walked, or rather climbed, ah over the island, which is hihy
and rocky, and found several great stones entirely covered with the
ancient carving. Moved by curiosity, we entered various caverns
where idols have been found, and amongst others one large cave,
which we had no sooner groped our way into than I nearly feh down
suffocated by the horrible and most pestilential atmosphere. It appears
that it is the sleeping-place of all the bats in the island; and heaven
forbid that I should ever again enter a bat's bedchamber ! I groped
my way out again as fast as possible, heedless of idols and ah other
antiquities, seized a cigarito from the hand of the astonished prefect,
who was wisely smoking at the entrance, hghted it, and inhaled the
smoke, which seemed more fragrant than violets, after that stifling
and most unearthly odour.
The chief food of these islanders, besides the gourds and other
vegetables which they cultivate, is the white fish, for which the lake
is celebrated; and while we were exploring the island, the Indians
set off in their canoes to catch some for us. These were fried at the
alcalde's, and we made a breakfast upon them which would have
rejoiced the heart of an epicure.
We then went to visit the church; and, though the cottages are
poor, the church is, as usual, handsome. Amongst other curiosities
there is a Virgin, entirely covered with Indian embroidery. The
organist's place is hereditary in an Indian family, descending from
father to son. The long-haired Indian who played it for us has such
a gentle expression and beardless face, that he looks hke a very
young woman. Some of the Indians here are very rich, and bury
their money; and one, cahed Agustin Campos, who has beautified
the church, as we read on an inscription carved on a stone outside,
has thirty thousand dohars, is much respected, and has the addition
of Don to his name, yet wears a coarse blanket hke his fellow-men.
We staid some hours on the island, and went into some of the huts,
where the women were baking tortillas, one Indian custom, at least,
which has descended to these days without variation. They first
cook the grain in water with a httle hme, and when it is soft peel
off the skin; then grind it on a large block of stone, the metate, or,
as the Indians (who know best) cah it, the metatl. For the purpose

LEAVE PASCUARO. 405
of grinding it, they use a sort of stone roller, with which it is
crushed, and rolled into a bowl placed below the stone. They then
take some of this paste, and clap it between their hands, till they
form it into hght round cakes, which are afterAvards toasted on a
smooth plate, called the comalli (comal they call it in Mexico), and
which ought to be eaten as hot as possible.
On our return, we had the variety of a shght storm, which ruffled
the_ placid surface of the lake, and caused the rowers to exert aU
their strength to bring the canoe to port before it should become
more violent.
This morning we walked ah through Pascuaro, which can boast
of many good houses, a square and portales, and ended by going to
visit the convent of Santa Catarina. We saw some of the nuns,
who wear white dresses, and, instead of veils, the black Indian reboso.
They were common-looking women, and not yexj amiable in their
manners; but we did not go further than the outside entry. On
our return we met a remarkable baby in arms, wearing an enormous
white satin turban, with a large plume of white feathers on one side,
balanced on the other by huge bunches of yehow ribbons and pink
roses. It also wore two robes, a short and a long one, both trimmed
all round with large plaitings of yehow satin ribbon. It was evidently
very much admired as it passed along. To-morrow, our mules
having recovered, we set off for Valladolid. Vaixadolid, 9th.
About half-past seven we left Pascuaro, which, considering that
we had a long day's journey before us, was scarce early enough.
We regretted very much taking leave of the Sefiora H  a, who
has been so kind to us, and whom we can certainly never hope to
see again. I observe that in these long days' journeys we generally
set off in silence, and sometimes ride on for hours without exchanging
a word. Towards the middle of the day we grow more talkative,
and again towards evening we relapse into quiet. I suppose it is
that in the morning we are sleepy, and towards evening begin to
grow tired — feehng sociable about nine o'clock, a.m., and not able
to talk for a longer period than eight or ten hours. It was about
four in the afternoon when we reached Cuincho, where we were wel
comed by the damsels of the baths, whose father is now still more
of an invahd than before. It is a lonely hfe that these poor girls
lead here, nor should I think their position a very secure one. Their
poverty, however, is a safeguard to a certain extent, and there are
few robbers in this country in the style of Morales. We were
tempted to stop here and take a bath, in consequence of which it
was dark when we set off for Moreha. The horses, unable to see,
took enormous leaps over every httle streamlet and ditch, so that we
seemed to be riding a steeple-chase in the dark. Our gowns caught
upon the thorny bushes, and our journey might have been traced by
the tatters we left behind us. At length we rode the wrong way,
2 E 2

406 MORELIA.
up a stony hill, which led us to a wretched httle village of about
thirty huts, each hut having ten dogs on an average, according to
the laudable custom of the Indians. Out they all rushed simultane
ously, yelping hke three hundred demons, biting the horses' feet,
and springing round us. Between this canine concert, the kicking
of the horses, the roar of a waterfall close beside us, the shouting of
people telhng us to come back, and the pitch darkness, I thought
we should ah have gone distracted. We did, however, make our
way out from amongst the dogs, re-descended the stony hih, the
horses leaping over various streamlets that crossed their path, turned
into the right road, and entered the gates of Moreha without further
adventure, between nine and ten o'clock. Morelia, I lth.
We have passed the last few days very agreeably in this beautiful
city, seeing every thing worthy of notice, and greatly admiring the
wide and airy streets, the fine houses, the handsome pubhc buildings,
but especially the cathedral, the cohege, and the churches. It has
also a fine square, with broad piazzas occupying three of its sides,
while the cathedral bounds it to the east. There is a crowded market
in the plaza, and a fine display of fruit and vegetables. The popu
lation is said to be a httle upwards of fifteen thousand, but one
would suppose it to be much greater. Living and house-rent is so
cheap here, that a family who could barely exist upon their means in
Mexico, may enjoy every luxury at Valladohd. The chmate is
dehghtful, and there is something extremely cheerful in the aspect of
the city, in which it differs greatly from Toluca. We received visits
from various Morelians, amongst others, from Don Cayetano Gomez,
the proprietor of San Bartolo.
We went one evening to the alameda, a broad, straight walk,
paved with flat stones, shaded by fine trees, under which are stone
benches, and bounded by a low stone wall. Several ladies were
sitting there, whom we joined, and amongst others, a remarkably
pretty Poblana, married into the Gomez family. The alameda is
crossed by a fine aqueduct of solid masonry, with hght and elegant
arches. We drove to the paseo, a broad, shady road, where we met
but few carriages; and the same evening we went out on foot, to
enjoy the music of a very good mihtary band, wlfich plays occasion
ahy for the amusement of the citizens. It is not to be supposed that,
when Mexico can boast of so httle society, there should be much in
a _ provincial town; besides, this city has the pretension of being
divided into cliques, and there are " first people" and " second-rate
people " and " families in our set," and so on; so that some of the
ladies being musicians, one set will get up a concert, another a rival
concert, and there not being a sufficient musical society to fill two
concerts, both fall to the ground. There is a neat httle theatre, but
at present no company. . Some of the houses are as handsome as any
m Mexico, but there is no city which has fallen off so much since the

CATHEDRAL. 407
Independence as Moreha, according to the accounts given us by the
most respectable persons.
_ We had a visit from the bishop, Sefior Portugal, one of the most
distinguished men here, or in fact in the whole republic of Mexico,
a man of great learning, gentle and amiable in his manners, and in
his hfe a model of Airtue and hohness. He was in the cabinet when
Santa Anna was president, concerning which circumstance an amusing
story was told us, for the correctness of which I do not vouch, but
the narrator, a respectable citizen here, certainly beheved it., Sefior
Portugal had gone, by appointment, to see the president on some im
portant business, and they had but just begun their consultation,
when Santa Anna rose and left the room. The minister waited —
the president did not return. The time passed on, and still the mi
nister continued expecting him, until at length he inquired of an
aide-de-camp in waiting, if he could inform him how soon the president
might be expected back. " I hardly know," said the officer, " for
his Excehency has gone to visit Cola de plata" (silver tail). " And
who may Colade platabe?" said the minister. " A favourite cock
of his Excellency's, wounded this morning in a fight which he won,
and to whose care he is now personally attending ! " The bishop soon
after sent in his resignation.
Accompanied by several of our friends, including one of the canons
of the cathedral, we visited that splendid building the second day of
oto arrival. It is still wonderfully rich, notwithstanding that silver
to the amount of thirty-two thousand marks has been taken from it
during the civil wars. The high altar is dazzhng with gold and
silver; the raihng which leads from it to the choir is of pure_ silver,
with pillars of the same metal; the two pulpits, with their stairs, are
also covered with silver ; and the general ornaments, though numerous
and rich, are disposed with good taste, are kept in good order, and
have nothing tawdry or loaded in their general effect. The choir
itseh is extremely beautiful; so also is the carved screen before the
organ, the doors of the first being of sohd silver, and those of the
other of richly-carved wood. There is also an immense silver font,
and superb lamps of silver. We particularly admired some fine
paintings, chiefly by Cabrera, and especiahy a Madonna and child, m
which there is that most divine expression in the face of the Virgin,
the blending of maternal love with awe for the divinity of the child.
Four of these paintings, it is said, were sent here by a Spanish king,
as 'far back as Philip IX These four are colossal in size, and are
finely painted, but httle cared for or appreciated, and placed in a bad
We were shown two saints, sent from Rome, loaded with false
jewels, but carefully preserved in their respective shrines. All the
holy vessels and priests' dresses and jewels were taken out for our
inspection. The sacramental custodia cost thirty-two thousand dol
lars, and the richest of the dresses eight thousand. There is a lamb

408 WAXWORKS.
made of one pearl, the fleece and head of silver; the pearl of great
size and value. •
We toiled up through winding staircases to the belfry; and it
required the beautiful and extensive landscape spread out before us,
to compensate us for this most fatiguing ascent. The behs are of
copper, and very sonorous. The canonigo pointed out to us all the
different sites which had been the scenes of bloody battles during the
revolutionary war. The facihties for obtaining provisions, and the
mountainous character of the country, are amongst the causes that
have rendered this province the theatre of civil war. The padre
afterwards took us into a large apartment, a sort of office, hunground
with the portraits of all the bishops of Michoacan; one bearing s6
striking a resemblance to our friend, Don Francisco Tagle, that we
were not surprised to find that it was in fact the portrait of one of his
family, who had occupied the episcopal see of Michoacan; andbelow
it were the Tagle arms, referring to some traditionary exploit of their
ancestors. They represent a knight killing a serpent; and the
motto is — " Tagle que la serpiente mat6 y con la Princesa casd"
(Tagle who kihed the serpent, and married the Princess).
The same evening, we visited a lady who possesses a most singular
and curious cohection of works in wax; and more extraordinary still,
they are all her own workmanship. Every fruit and every vegetable
production is represented by her with a fidelity, which makes it im
possible to distinguish between her imitations and the works of nature.
Plates with bread, radishes, and fish; dishes of fowls, and chile, and
eggs; baskets full of the most dehcious-looking fruit; lettuces, beans,
carrots, tomatoes, &c. ; all are copied with the most extraordinary
exactness. But her figures show much greater talent. There are
groups for which an amateur might offer any price, could she be
prevailed upon to offer these masterpieces for sale. There is a
Poblana peasant on horseback before a ranchero, looking back at him
with the most coquettish expression ; her dress perfection, from the
straw hat that half shades her features, to the beautiful httle ankle
and foot in the white satin shoe, the short embroidered petticoat, and
the reboso thrown over one shoulder ; a handsome Indian, selling
pulque and brandy in her httle shop, with every variety of hquor
temptingly displayed in rows of shining bottles, to her customers; the
grouping and colouring perfect, and the whole interior arrangement
of the shop, imitated with the most perfect exactness. There is also
a horrid representation, frightfully correct, of a dead body in a state
of corruption, which it makes one sick to look at, and which it is in
conceivable that any one can have had pleasure in executing. In
short, there is scarcely any thing in nature upon which her talent has
not exercised itseh.
Yesterday we visited the Seminario, or college, a fine spacious old
building, kept in good repair. The rector conducted us over the
whole estabhshment. There is a smah well-chosen library, contain-

FLEAS. 409
mg all the most classic works in Spanish, German, French, and
English; and a larger hbrary, containing Greek and Latin authors,
theological works, &c, a large hall, with chemical and other
scientific apparatus, and a small chapel where there is a beautiful
piece of sculpture in wood: the San Pedro, by a young man, a
native of Vahadohd, so exquisitely wrought, that one cannot but
regret that such a genius should be buried here, should not at least
have the advantage of some years' study in Italy, where he might
become a second Canova.
One must visit these distant cities, and see these great estabhsh
ments, to be fuhy aware of all that the Spaniards bestowed upon
their colonies, and also to be convinced of the regret for former times
which is felt amongst the most distinguished men of the republic; in
fact, by all who are old enough to compare what has been with
what is.
I ought not to omit, in talking of the natural productions of
Vahadohd, to mention that it is famous for fleas. We had been
alarmed by the miraculous stories related to us of these vivacious
animals, and were rejoiced to find ourselves in a house, from which,
bydint of extreme care, they are banished. But in the inns and in
ferior houses they are said to be a perfect pestilence, sometimes
literally walking away with a piece of matting upon the floor, and
covering the wahs in myriads. The nuns, it is said, are or were in
the habit of harnessing them to httle carriages, and of showing them
off by other ingenious devices.
We rode out in the evening to meet our friends from Uruapa, who
were expected to arrive yesterday ; I upon a very formidable and
handsome cavalry-horse, rather above his work, which some expected
to run away, and others to throw me off, and which might have done
both, but being a noble creature did neither. We did not meet our
friends, who, having been delayed on the road, only arrived this
evening. We have therefore decided to remain here till to-morrow
afternoon, when we shall continue our journey homewards by San
Bartolo.

410

LETTER THE FIFTY-FIRST.
San Bartolo— Mass— Market — Rancheros — San Andres — Insanity — Rancho —
House of Don Carlos Heimbiirger — Wild Scenery — German Songs — Las
Milas — Leave-taking— Storm— Rainbow — El Pilar — La Gabia— Toluca—
News — Copper Pronunciamiento — Return to Mexico — General Moran —
Funeral Obsequies— New Theatre— Cock's Mass— Santa. Clara— Santa Fe
Prisoners — New Year. Angangueo, 14th.
After taking leave of ah our hospitable friends in Morelia, we
set off in the afternoon, and had a dehghtful ride to San Bartolo.
Fortunately the fohowing day (Sunday) was that of the Virgin of
Guadalupe, one of the greatest festivals here ; so that we had an op
portunity of seeing ah the people from the different vihages, who
arrived in the courtyard by daybreak, and held a market in front
of the hacienda. Various were the articles for sale, and picturesque
the dresses of the sellers. From cakes, chile, atole, and ground-nuts,
to rebosos and bead rosaries, nothing was omitted. In one part of
the market the sturdy rancheros were drinking pulque and devour
ing hot cakes ; in another, httle boys were bargaining for nuts and
bananas ; countrywomen were offering low prices for smart rebosos ;
an Indian woman was recommending a comb, with every term of
endearment, to a young country-girl, who seemed perfectly ignorant
of its use, assuring her customer that it was an instrument for un
ravelling the hair, and making it beautiful and shining, and en
forcing her argument by combing through some of the girl's tangled
locks. Before breakfast Ave went to mass in the large chapel of the
hacienda. We and the family went to the choir; and the body of
the chapel was filled with rancheros and their wives. It is im
possible to see anywhere a finer race of men than these rancheros —
tall, strong, and well made, with their embroidered shirts, coarse
sarapes, and dark blue pantaloons embroidered in gold. After mass,
the marketing recommenced, and the rebosos had a brisk sale. A
number were bought by the men for their wives, or novias, at home;
which reminds me of a story of  's, of a poor Indian woman in
their village, who desired her husband to buy a petticoat for her in
Mexico, Avhere he was going to sell his vegetables. She particularly
impressed upon him that she wished it to be the colour of the sky,
wlfich at sunrise, when he was setting off, was of a flaming red. He
returned in the evening, bringing, to her great indignation, a petti-

SAN ANDRES. 411
coat of a dusky "gray, which happened to be the colour of the sky
when he made his purchase.
. In the evening we rode through the fields, the servants and the
young master of the house amusing themselves as they went, by the
chasing and colear of the bulls. They have one small, ugly, yellow-
coloured bull, which they call tame, and which the mozos ride
familiarly. They persuaded me to try this novel species of riding, a
man holding the animal's head with a rope; but I thought that it
tossed its horns in a most uncomfortable and alarming manner, and
very soon slipped off. We stopped during our ride, at a house where
the proprietors make a small fortune by the produce of their nume
rous beehives; and walked along the banks of a fine clear river,
winding through beautiful and verdant groves.
The next morning by six o'clock we were again on horseback, and
took leave of San Bartolo. We rode by Yndaparapeo, a considerable
village, with sloping shingle roofs ; and about ten reached Querendaro,
breakfasted with Sefior Pimentel, and then continued our journey
towards San Andres, Avhere we Avere to pass the night. We had a
horse with us which occasionally fell down on the road, shivering ah
over, groaning, and apparently dying; but which had twice re
covered from these fits. But this day, having stopped beside a run
ning stream to water our horses, the unfortunate beast feh again,
and when we had remounted, and were riding forward, a servant
galloped after us, to tell us that the horse was dead at last ; so we
left him to his lonely grave by the river's side. Great, therefore,
was our amazement, when, some time after, we perceived him
trotting along the road at a great rate, in pursuit of his party,
apparently quite recovered.
We passed the night at San Andres, a poor venta, but clean, con
sisting of three empty rooms, a spirit-shop, and a kitchen. Our
escort slept in the piazza, rolled in their sarapes. Our beds were
stuck up in the empty rooms, and we got some supper upon fowl
and tortillas. We were interested by the melancholy air of a poor
woman, who sat aloof on the piazza, uncared for, and noticing no
one. We spoke to her, and found that she was insane, wandering
from village to village, and subsisting on charity. She_ seemed
gentle and harmless, but the very picture of misery, and quite alone
in the world, having lost all her family. But " God tempers the
wind to the shorn lamb." We saw her again in the morning before
we set off, and saw her get some breakfast in the kitchen. The poor
people of the venta seemed kind to her. They who dwell in com
fortable houses, surrounded by troops of friends, and who repine at
their lot, would do well to compare it with that of such a being. _
This morning we left San Andres, and have had a pleasant ride,
in spite of a hard-trotting horse, which fell to my lot. Impossible
to conceive more beautiful scenery than that which we passed through
to-day. Some of the hills have a singular formation, each large bill
appearing composed of a variety of smaller ones, of a pyramidal

412 COPPER CURRENCY.
shape. We rode through Taximaraoa without stopping, and break
fasted at a rancho, where the whole family were exceedingly hand
some. The ranchero himself was a model for a fine-looking farmer,
hospitable and weh-bred; knowing his place, yet without any ser
vility. The rancherita, who was engaged in the kitchen, was so
handsome, that we made every possible excuse for going to look at
her. About four o'clock we once more crossed the hills and came down
upon the plains by which we left Angangueo ; and passed over a
river as red as blood, that looked as if hostile armies had been en
gaged in fierce combat by its banks, and theh bodies rohed in the
tide. This ensanguined hue is, however, caused, not by warlike
steel, but by peaceful copper ; not peaceful in its effects, by the way,
at this moment, for the whole country, more or less, is in commotion
on the subject of copper coin.
You must know, that some few years ago, the value of copper was
suddenly reduced by law to one-half, causing a great loss to ah, but
much distress to the poor. The intrinsic value of the copper, how
ever, bore so httle relation to the value given to it, that it was a very
productive business to counterfeit it, of which many unprincipled in
dividuals availed themselves to such an extent, that it had almost
become an openly exercised branch of industry ah through the
repubhc. When Santa Anna became provisional president, he
ordered that all the copper coin, whose currency was now reduced to
six or eight per cent, below par, should be given in to certain de
posits which he named, promising to repay it in genuine coin of real
value. But this naturally caused a stiff greater depreciation, bringing
it down as low as sixty per cent. ; and stih greater discontent, the
people having httle faith in the promise, and, in fact, the payment
could not be made at the appointed time, because there were not
sufficient coining machines; and as the few new cents that did circu
late, were said not to contain their real value, the distress became
greater than ever. The merchants refused to receive copper, and
there was no silver or small change. In the mean time, in many of
the large haciendas, the proprietors have given checks to the work
men, with which they have been able to buy what they required at
the shops, which are attached to these haciendas.
The amount of the copper in circulation cannot be calculated, for it
is almost all counterfeit. It is supposed, however, to be at least from
eight to nine_ millions of dohars. You may easily imagine the for
tunes that wih be made (and as they say are being made) by those
of the government party, who are buying up for sixty, what will.be
paid them by favour of the government at the rate of a hundred."
We rode up the hills that lead to the house of Don Carlos Heim-
burger, and were again hospitably received by him and his German
friends. Nothing can have a finer effect than the view from the
piazza of his house in the evening, looking down upon the vahey.
The piazza itseh has a screen of green creepers, which have the

GERMANS. 413
effect of a curtain of a theatre half drawn up. Behind the house
nses a dark frowning hhl, in the form of a pyramid. In front is the
deep ravine, with the huts of the workmen, and while the moon
throws her quivering beams over the landscape, the metallic fires of
livid blue hght up the vahey. There is something wild and diabolic
in the scene; and as the wind howls round the vahey with a dismal
sound, it seems as if one were looking on at some unholy, magical
incantation; so that it is pleasant to return after a while to the com
fortable rooms and cheerful fires within, which have so homely and
domestic an air. We hope to spend to-morrow here, and the fol
lowing day go on to Toluca, from whence I shah continue my letter.
Tolitca, 19th.
The next day we visited the works which are hke ah others, ex
cepting that here they do not use quicksilver to extract the silver
from the lead, but do so by the process of oxidation, by the means
of a reverberatory furnace. The people generahy have an unhealthy
appearance, as nearly ah have who are engaged in these works — the
air being loaded with particles of metal. After visiting the mills
and the sheds where the process of oxidation is carried on, and ad
miring the metallic riches of these mountains, we left the hot and
poisoned atmosphere and walked up the mountams clothed with a
hardy vegetation — with every noble tree and flowering shrub — and
pursued our course tih we came to a fine waterfall, which plunges
from a great height over the gigantic rocks.
The scenery here is rude and wild. The great rocks are covered
with hardy trees — the pine, the cedar, the oak, and the flowering
laurel. The river after dashing down in this noble cascade, runs brawl
ing amongst the forest-clothed hills, till it reaches the plains, and flows
on placidly. We spent an agreeable day, wandering amongst the
mountains; and when we returned sat on the piazza to watch the
moon as her broad disk rose over the vahey, and the fierce blue hghts
that made her mild fires grow pale.
Ah Germans are musical, and the gentlemen in this house did not
behe the national reputation. After dinner, a bright fire blazing,
doors and windows shutting out the cold air that whistled along the
hills, they struck up in chorus some of the finest national airs, par
ticularly the Hymn to the Rhine — so that it seemed an illusion that
we were in this wild, mining district, inhabited only by the poorest
Indians; and we were transported thousands of miles off, across the
broad Atlantic, even to the land where
" The castled crag of Drachenfels_
Frowns o'er the broad and winding Rhine."
We also amused ourselves by examining Madame B  's
Album; and if those milk-and-water volumes, belonging to young
ladies, where young gentlemen write prettinesses, be cahed Albums,
some other name should be found for a book where some of the

414 STORM.
most distinguished artists in Germany, have left proofs of then-
talent, and where there is not one page which does not contain
something striking and original. Nothing pleased me so much as
the fanciful illustration of the beautiful legend of Lorelei, which Ma
dame B  read to us with great feeling. We became too com
fortable here for hardy equestrian travellers, and had we staid much
longer should have begun to complain of tough fowls, beds in
barns, and other inconveniences, which we had hitherto laughed
at; but we tore ourselves away from our Capua, and on the morn
ing of the sixteenth set off for El Pilar.
Don Carlos Heimbiirger, M. and Madame B  &c, accom
panied us for seven leagues, ah through the woods. We had a
delightful ride, the day Was cool and cloudy, and we were besides,
constantly shaded by the noble forest trees. But we had not
reached Las Milks before the sky was overcast, the clouds became
black and gloomy, and at length broke out in rain. We galloped
fast, for the day, besides being rainy, was cold; and in the after
noon reached Las MillaS; Here we breakfasted in the httle por
tico, which Ave preferred to the interior of the cottage, chiefly upon
tortillas and boiled tejocotes, a fruit wlfich grows in great abundance,
and resembles a smah apple. Here again were two Indian girls of
admirable beauty, dans leur genre, baking tortillas. We were now
obhged to part from our kind German friends, and to ride across
the plains. But had not gone more than halfway, when the clouds
burst forth in torrents, pouring their fury on our devoted heads,
so that in five minutes we were ah drenched as if we had
fahen into a river. We took shelter for a little while under a soh
tary spreading tree, but the storm increased in violence, and it was
advisable to gallop forwards, in order to arrive at El Pilar before it
became dark. Suddenly, the most beautiftd rainbow I ever beheld
smiled out from amongst the watery clouds. It formed a complete
and well-defined arch of the most brilliant colours in the heavens,
reflected by another on the plains, wlfich, uniting with it, blended
its fainter hues with the hght of the heavenly bow.
We arrived at El Pilar tired and drenched, and greatly in need of
the hospitable reception which was given to us by its mistress.
The following morning we set off early for La Gabia, feeling
some regret that our journey was draAving to a close. Some of us,
who rode in front, found ourselves surrounded by several suspicious-
looking, well-armed men on horseback, who, under pretence of
asking some questions, rode very close to us, and then stopped and
faced round on their horses — but there was no danger, our escort
being at a short distance, and when they observed its approach, they
bestowed no further attention upon us. Don Xavier Hechavarria
had returned to Mexico, but we were cordially welcomed by his
brother-in-law, Don Manuel Gorospe, and so kindly pressed to remain
some days, that nothing but our limited time would have induced us
to set off next morning for Toluca. Here we arrived last night,

CHURCH PROPERTY. 415
having performed our journey by a different and more agreeable
road than that of the " three hundred barrancas." We entered
Toluca by moonhght, and found that respectable city ah in com
motion on the subject of copper; presenting a very different aspect
from the quiet and conventual air of repose which distinguished it
httle more than a month ago. Yesterday Colonel Y  , who has
accompanied us during all this journey, left us, to return to Micho
acan, having thus brought us back in safety to the point from which
we started.
We are spending a very tiresome day in the inn, which, however,
is a more decent place, and belongs to a better hne of coaches than
the other. We have been enlivened by several visits, amongst
others, from the commandant, and from an aide-de-camp of General
Valencia's. For the first time since we left it, we have news from
Mexico. Santa Anna, dil-on, is now Dictator or King, in all but the
name ; affecting more than royal pomp, yet endeavouring by his affa
bility to render himself popular. Above all, he has made known his
determination of not seizing an inch of ground belonging to the
clergy; which seizure of church property was the favourite idea of
Paredes and the progresistas. This resolution he has not printed,
probably in order not to disgust that party, but his personal declara
tion to the archbishop and the padres of the Profesa, and in a letter
to the bishop of Puebla, is, that he wih not only leave their property
untouched, but that, were he out of power, he would draw his sword
in their defence — for that, good or bad, he is a sincere Cathohc.
This has done much to re-establish him in the good opinion of the
clergy, and it is said that in every convent in Mexico, monks and
nuns are now wearying Heaven with prayers in his behalf. In short,
the conquerors and the conquered, those of the Progress, and those
of the Dictatorship, seem all, barring a few noble exceptions, actu
ated by one motive ; personal interest.
Count C  a is restored to the command of his battalion del
Comercio, which has been re-estabhshed (it having deserted to the
federalists in the last revolution). It appears that the president's
favourite plan is to have thirty thousand men under arms ; and there
is httle doubt that he will bring this about. Sixteen new generals
have been created; and General Tornel is made a General of Division.
The Sefiora V  a has given a bah, at which she and other ladies
appeared with trains, rehearsing, as it would seem, before the court
drawing-rooms. I was told, and by good authority, that the present
sent by Santa Anna to the lady of the commander-in-chief on her
birthday, was a box containing three generals' belts, with a request
that she would bestow them on those whom she considered most de
serving of them; and that the lady herself buckled the sashes on her-
favoured knights, in her own boudoir. Thus was valour rewarded by
the hand of beauty; and
" Thus should desert in arms be crowned."

416 TOLUCA.
Meanwhile the master of the house presents himself with a dis
turbed and gloomy countenance, and doubts much whether we can
have any dinner to-day, because no one wih seh any thing, either for
copper or silver; moreover hints darkly that they expect a copper
pronunciamiento to-morrow; and observes that the shops are shut up.
Since we could get no dinner, we went out to take a walk; and
methinks the Tolucanos have a fierce and agitated aspect. We at
tempted to go to mass this morning, but there was a congregation of
leperos, who fihed not only the church, but the whole enclosure and
the street beyond, so that we could not even approach the church
door. Unfortunately we cannot get a diligence until the 21st.
They have brought us at last, I wih not say dinner — but something
to eat. 20th. — This morning, the firing of squibs, the beating of drums,
the shouting and confusion on the streets, announced that the raga
muffin population of Toluca had turned out; and going to the
balcony, I very nearly received the salutation of
" A sky-
Rocket in my eye."
Orders have been given out by the alcalde, that copper shah be
received in payment by the merchants, some of whom have declared
they wih only receive silver. A large mob has cohected before the
alcalde's door, with shouts of "Viva la plata! Muerta al cobre ! "
(Long hve silver ! Death to copper ! ) — apostrophizing these
useful metals, as if they were two generals.
The merchants have issued a declaration, that during three days
only, they wih seh their goods for copper (of course at an immense
advantage to themselves). The Indians and the poorer classes are
now rushing to the shops, and buying goods, receiving in return for
their copper about half its value. If Santa Anna keeps his word ,
the patriotism of the merchants wih be rewarded.
C  -n has just had a visit from one of the merchants, who
wishes his conduct to be represented in a proper hght in Mexico.
Mexico, 22d.
With much joy we stepped into the dihgence early yesterday
morning, accompanied by the commandant of Toluca, and retraced
our road to Mexico; for though Toluca is a fine city, with clean,
any houses, wide, well-paved streets, and picturesque in its situation,
there is something sad and deserted in its appearance, an air of stag
nation that weighs upon the spirits; and the specimens we have seen
of its lower orders are not inviting. We had rather an agreeable
journey, as the day was cool, and we had the dihgence to ourselves.
We breakfasted again at Cuajimalpa, took leave of the interesting
itzcuin tepotzotli, stih hanging from its hook — and again ascended the
eminence from which Mexico suddenly bursts upon the view, and
after a short absence, with ah the charms of novelty. Before we
arrived at Tacubaya, we were met by a carriage containing Sefior

EMBALMING. 417
¦"¦ . ana-his lady, who insisted on our leaving the dihgence; and
carried us off to their oavu house, where we now are. On the second
of January we expect to take our final departure from the " great
city of the lake."
28th December. — Another old year about to chime in ! Another
Christmas past away ! But during these last few days it has been
ah in vain to attempt finishing my letter, between making arrange
ments for our journey, receiving and returning visits, going to the
opera, and seeing and revisiting all that we had left unseen or wished
to see again before leaving this. People seem determined that we
shah regret them, and load us with kindness and attentions the more
flattering, that now at least they are entirely personal, and cannot
proceed from any interested motive. We have reason to think them
both steady and sincere in their friendship.
General Moran has died, universally regretted. He has been
embalmed acording to the system of Ganal, and his funeral was per
formed with extraordinary magnificence, the troops out, the foreign
ministers and the cabinet fohowing on foot, the former in fuh uni
form, and a great train of carriages reaching along the whole Cahe
San Francisco, from the church to the square. The body, dressed in
a general's uniform, was carried upon a splendid bier, and was so
perfectly embalmed, that he seemed, not dead, nor even asleep, but
lying in an attitude of repose. The expense of this operation will
probably prevent its ever becoming very common; and certainly
there are but few cases where it can be advisable to adopt it. An
embalmed dynasty might be a curious sight. To trace the features of
a royal fine, from Charlemagne to Charles X. — from Alfred
to Wilham IV., would be a strange study. Mary of Scotland,
and Elizabeth, lying in the repose of death, yet looking as they hved
and hated centuries back, might be a curious piece of antiquity. A
Hernan Cortes — a Washington — a Columbus — a Napoleon; men,
whose memory for good or for evil, wih survive time and change —
it would be a strange and wondrous thing, if we could look on their
features as they were in life. But it is to be trusted that this method
of successfully vyresthng with the earth for what it claims as its due,
wih not generahy prevail; or at the end of a few centuries, the
embalmed population would, scarce leave room for their hving and
breathing descendants : nor is it an agreeable idea that one might, in
a lapse of ages, grace the study of an antiquary, or be preserved
amongst the curiosities of a museum. I would stuff birds and beasts,
and preserve them in cabinets, but not the remains of immortal man.
Dust unto dust ; and the eye of faith turned from the perishing re
mains, to the spirit which has gone to the God who gave it.
The funcion performed in the general's honour, within the church,
was as magnificent as ecclesiastic and mihtary splendour could render
it. We were in the gahery above. The bier, placed on a lofty
scaffolding, covered with black velvet and hghted with wax tapers,
was placed near the altar. The music was solemn and impressive.

418 MONTE PIO.
Every respect has been shown to the deceased general, by Santa
Anna's orders. Excepting the corps diplomatique and the officers,
all within the church were in deep mourning. . . .
The chief difficulty we have in arranging our affairs here, consists
in the perfect impossibility of persuading any tradesman to keep his
word. They name the day, the hour, the minute, at which they are
to be with you, or at which certain goods are to be sent to you. They
are affronted if you doubt theh- punctuality, and the probability is,
you never hear of them or their goods again. If they are not exact
for their own interest, they Avih not be so for yours ; and although we
have had frequent proofs of this carelessness, we are particularly
annoyed by it now that we are within a few days of our departure.
During our residence here we have had httle to do with shops and
shopkeepers having found it more convenient and economical to
send to Paris or even to the United States for ah articles of dress.
Now, though every thing must still be comparatively dear, the bad
times have caused a great reduction in prices ; and dear as ah goods
are, they would be stih dearer, were it not for the quantity that is
smuggled into the repubhc. There are an amazing number of
French shopkeepers; French tailors, hatters, shoemakers, apothe
caries, &c.; but especiahy French modistes, and perruquiers. The
charges of the former are exorbitant, the latter are httle employed
except by gentlemen. There are also many Spanish shops, some
German, and a few Enghsh; but I think the French preponderate.
We went some time ago to see the Monte Pio, which is under the
auspices of Sefior Tagle; and it is melancholy enough to see the
profusion of fine diamonds and pearls that are displayed in these
large hahs. After a certain time has elapsed without their being
redeemed, the pledged articles are sold; gold and silver, in whatever
form, by the weight, but jewels for their intrinsic value. There is a
sale once a week. We were shown privately the jewels of the Virgen
de los Remedios ; which are very superb.
There is a smah theatre lately established, called the Theatre of
New Mexico, where there is a Spanish company, the same whom
we saw two years ago in Vera Cruz. They are drawing away
various persons from the principal theatre. Their object seems to
be to make people laugh, and they succeed. On Christmas eve
we went there to see the gracioso (harlequin) in a woman's dress,
dance _ Tripili, an old Spanish dance, accompanied with singing.
They introduced some appropriate lines concerning the late trou
bles about the copper, which were received with great applause.
Just as they were concluding the Tripili, a young gentleman in the
pit, I do not know whether Mexican or Spanish, rose, and waving
nis hand after the manner of a man about to make an address, and
requesting attention, kindly favoured the audience with some A-erses
of his own, which were received with great good-nature; the actors
bovring to him, and the pit applauding him. It seemed to me a
curious piece of philanthropy on his part.

TEXIAN PRISONERS. 419
At midnight we went to the church of Santa Clara, to attend
what is called the Misa del Gallo, the Cock's Mass; which is private,
—only respectable persons being admitted by a private entrance; for
midnight mass in Mexico takes place with shut doors, as ah nightly
reunions are dreaded. Santa Clara being attached to the convent of
that name, we remained after mass to see the white-robed sisters receive
the sacrament from the hands of a priest, by the smah side-door that
¦opens from the convent to the church. The church was hghted, but
the convent was in darkness; and looking in through the grating,
we could only distinguish the outhne of their kneehng figures, enve
loped in their white drapery and black veils. I do not think there
were a dozen persons in the church besides ourselves.
A good deal of interest has been excited here lately about the
Texian prisoners taken in the Santa Fe expedition, the first detach
ment of whom have arrived, after a march of nearly two thousand
miles, and are now lodged in the convent of Santiago, about two
miles from the centre of the city. As their situation is represented to
be very miserable, and as it is said that they have been stripped of
their hats, shoes, and coats ; some of the Mexican famihes, and amongst
others, that of Don Francisco Tagle, regardless of pohtical enmity,
have subscribed to send them a supply of hnen and other necessary
articles, which they carried out there themselves. Being invited to
accompany them to Santiago, I did so; and we found the common
men occupying the courtyard, and the officers the large hah of the
eonvent. So far, they have been treated as prisoners of war generahy
are; but it is said to be the intention of Santa Anna to have them
put in chains, and sent out to sweep the streets, with the miserable
prisoners of the Acordada. Colonel C  , who was presented to
me, seemed to treat the whole affair very hghtly, as the fortune of
war; and had evidently no idea that any such fate was in store for
them; seeming rather amused by the dress of the monks, whom he
now saw for the first time. In the Mexicans generahy, there seems
very little if any vindictive feehng against them; on the contrary, a
good deal of interest in their favour, mingled with some curiosity to
.see them. The common men appeared more impatient and more
iout of spirits than the officers. We shah probably know nothing
more of their fate, before leaving Mexico.
We had some intention of paying a last visit to the Museum before
we went; and Don Jose Maria Bustamante, a friend of ours, professor
of botany, and considered a man of learning, was prepared to receive
us; but we were prevented from going. I must, however, find time
to answer your question as to the population. The Mexican repubhc
is supposed to contain upwards of seven millions of inhabitants; the
capital, two hundred thousand. Their number cannot be exactly
fixed, as there has been no general census for some time; a labour m
which a commission, with Count Cortina at its head, has been em
ployed for some time past, and the result of which will be pubhshed
'shortly. Ah other questions must be rephed to de vive voix.
2p

420 PARTING.
I must now conclude my last letter written from this place; for
we are surrounded by visiters, day and night; and, tosay the truthj
feel that it is only the prospect of returning to our famhy, which can
counterbalance the unfeigned regret we feel at leaving our friends in
Mexico. My next letter wih most probably be dated from Vera
Ciuz.

LETTER THE FIFTY-SECOND.
Last Day in Mexico— Theatre— Santa Anna — French Minister's— Parting —
Diligence — Last Look of Mexico — Fatigue — Robbers — Escort — Second Im
pressions — Baths at Jalapa — Vera Cruz — Some Account of San Juan de
Ulua— Siege of 1825— Siege of 1838— General Bustamante— Theatre— Of
the North Winds. Vera Cruz, 6th January, 1842.
Having concluded our arrangements for leaving Mexico on the
2d of January, we determined, as the dihgence started long before
daybreak, not to attempt taking any rest that night. We went
out early, and took leave of the Dowager Marquesa de Vivanco,
who was confined to the house by illness, and whose kindness to us
has been unremitting ever since our arrival. It is a sad thing to
take leave of a person of her age, and in her delicate state of health,
whom there is scarcely a possibility of our ever seeing again. Some
days before we parted also from one of our oldest friends here, the
Countess C  a. The last day, besides the Spaniards who have
been our constant friends and visiters ever since we came here, we
had melancholy visits of adieu from Senor Gomez Padraza and his
lady, from the famihes of Echavarri, of Fagoaga, Cortina, Escan-
don, Casaflores, and many whose names are unknown to you.
Amongst others was the Giiera Rodriguez.
About eight o'clock, accompanied even to the door of the car
riage by a number of ladies who were with us to the last, and
amongst these were P  a C  a and L  z E  n, we broke
short all these sad partings, and, with the A  s and the family
of the French minister, set off for the theatre of New Mexico. I
can imagine your surprise at such a finale, but it was the only means
left us of finishing a painful scene, and of beguiling the weary hours
yet remaining before the dihgence started, for it was in vain to think
of rest or sleep that night. The theatre was very crowded, the play

ROBBERS. 421
an amusing piece of diablerie,, cahed the "Pata de Cobra" (the goat's
foot), badly got up, of course, as its effect depends upon scenery
and machinery. I beheve it was very entertaining, but I cannot
say we felt inclined to enter into the spirit of it. The famhy of
General V— — a were there, and, this being the day of a great
diplomatic dinner given by Santa Anna, various officers and diplo-
mates came in late and in fuh dress. I was informed by one of the
company, that six colonels stood the whole time of dinner behind
his Excellency's chair ! I wonder what; French officer would do as
much for Louis Phihppe. Vogue la gaUre ! From the theatre,
which concluded about one, we drove to the house of the 
minister, where we spent a very grave half-hour, and then returned
home with a very splendid brioche, of generous proportions, which
Madame la Baronne de,  had kindly prepared for our journey.
Arrived at the A  's, we sat down to supper, and never was
there a sadder meal than this, when for the last time we sat at the
hospitable board of these our earhest and latest Mexican friends.
We were thankful when it was ah over and we had taken leave,
and when, accompanied to the inn by Senor A  d and other gen
tlemen, we found ourselves fairly lodged in the dihgence, on a dark
and rather cold morning, sad, sleepy, and shivering. Ah Mexico
was asleep when we drove out of the gates. The very houses seemed
sunk in slumber. So terminated our last Mexican New Year's Day.
When we reached the eminence, from which is the last view of
the vahey, the first dawn of day was just breaking over the distant
city; the white summits of the volcanoes were stih enveloped in mist,
and. the lake was veiled by low clouds of vapour, that rose slowly
from its surface. And this was our last ghmpse of Mexico !
. The diligence is now on a new and most fatiguing plan of travel
ling night and day, after leaving Puebla; so that, starting from
Mexico at four o'clock on the morning of the 2d of January, it
arrives in Vera Cruz early on the morning of the 5th, saving a few
hours, and nearly killing the travellers. The government had
granted us escorts for the whole journey, now more than ever neces
sary. It was five in the afternoon when we reached Puebla, and we
set off again by dawn the next morning.
We had just left the gates, and our escort, which had rode for
ward, was concealed by some rising ground, when, by the faint
hght, we perceived some half-dozen mounted cavaliers making
stealthily up to us across the fields. Their approach was first dis
cerned by a Spanish lady who was with us, and who was travelling
with strings of pearl and valuable diamonds concealed about hex
person, which made her pecuharly sharp-sighted on the occasion.
" Ladrmes !" said she, and every one repeated " Ladrones!" in differ
ent intonations. They rode across the fields, came up pretty close
to the diligence,- and reconnoitred us. I was too sleepy to be
frightened, and reconnoitred them in return with only one eye open.
The coachman whipped up his horses, the escort came in sight,, and
2 P 2

422 JOURNEY.
the gentlemen struck into the fields again. The whole passed in a
minute or two. The soldiers of the escort came riding back to the
diligence; and the captain, galloping up to the window, gave him
self great credit for having " frightened away the robbers."
We arrived at Perote when it was nearly dusk, supped, and
started again at eleven o'clock at night. We passed a horrible night
in the diligence, and were thankful when daybreak showed us the
beautiful environs of Jalapa. It is singular that on a second impres->
sion, returning by tlfis road, the houses appear handsomer than they
did before, and nature less beautiful. I conclude that this is to be
accounted for simply from the circumstance of the eye having become
accustomed both to the works of nature and of man, which charac
terize this country. The houses, which at first appeared gloomy,
large, and comfortless, habit has reconciled us to, and experience
has taught us that they are precisely suited to this climate of perpe-.
tual spring. The landscape, with its eternal flowers and verdure,
no longer astonishes and bewilders us, as when we first arrived from
a country where, at that season, ah nature hes buried in snow.
Besides, in our last journey through Michoacan, we have passed
- among scenes even more striking and beautiful than these. Then
the dresses, which at first appeared so romantic; the high, Moorish-
looking saddle, the gold-embroidered manga, the large hat, shading
the swarthy faces of the men, the coloured petticoat and reboso, and
long black hair of the women, though stih picturesque, have no
longer the charm of novelty, and do not attract our attention. The
winter also has been unusually severe for Mexico, and some shght
frosts have caused the flowers of this natural garden to fade ; and*,
besides ah this, we Avere tired and sleepy and jolted, and knew that
we had but an hour or two to remain, and had another day and
night of purgatory in prospect. . . .
Still, as we passed along the shady lanes, amongst the dark chiri
moyas, the green-leaved bananas, and ah the variety of beautiful
trees, intwined with their graceful creepers, we were forced to con
fess that winter has httle power over these ferthe regions, and that in
spite of the leveller, Habit, such a landscape can never be passed
through with indifference.
Arrived at Jalapa, we refreshed ourselves with the luxury of a
bath, having to pass, through half the city before we reached the
bathing establishment, from which there is the most beautiful view of
wood, water, and mountain that it is possible to behold. The baths
are the property of a lady Avho has a cotton factory and a good house
in the city, and fortunate she is in possessing a sufficient portion of
worldly goods; since, as she informed us, she is the mother of twenty
children ! She herseh, in appearance, was httle more than thirty.
We then returned to breakfast, and shortly after left Jalapa.
I wih not inflict upon you a second description of the same jour
ney; of Plan del Rio, with its clear river and httle inn — of Puerto del
Rey, with its sohd majestic bridge thrown over the deep ravine,

VERA CRUZ. 423
through wlfich rushes the impetuous river Antigua— or of how we
werejolted over the road leading to Paso de Oveja, &c. Suffice it to
say, that we passed a night, which between suffocating heat, honible
jolting, and extreme fatigue, was nearly intolerable. Stopping to
change horses at Santa Fe, we saw, by the light of the torches which
they brought to the door, that we were once more among bamboo-
nuts and palm-trees. Towards morning we heard the welcome sound
of the waves, giving us joyful token that our journey was drawing
to a close; yet when Aye entered Vera Cruz and got out of the dili
gence, we felt hke prisoners, who have been so long confined in a
dungeon, they are incapable of enjoying their hberty, we were so
thoroughly worn out and exhausted. How different from the agree
able kind of fatigue Avhich we used to feel after a long day's journey
on horseback !
_Breakfast, and a fresh toilet had, however, their due influence.
We were in an hotel, and had hardly breakfasted, when our friend,
Don Dionisio Velasco, with some other gentlemen, arrived, and
kindly reproaching us for preferring an inn to his house, carried us
and our luggage off to his fine airy dwelling, where we now are, and
where a good night's rest has made us forget all our fatigu.es.
As we must remain here for one or two days, we shall have time
to see a little more of the city; and already, upon a second survey,
sad and dilapidated as it now appears, I can more readily imagine
what it must have been in former days, before it was visited by the
scourge of civil war. The experience of two Mexican revolutions,
makes it more easy for us to conceive the extent to which this unfor
tunate city must have suffered in the struggle made by the Spaniards,
to preserve the castle, their last bulwark m this hemisphere. San
Juan de Ulua, in spite of the miserable condition in which it now is,
remains a lasting memorial of the great works which, almost imme
diately after their arrival on these shores, were undertaken by the
Spanish conquerors.
' In 1682, sixty-one years after they had set foot on Aztec soil, they
began this fortress, in order to confirm their power. The centre of
the space which it occupies is a small island, where the Spaniard,
Juan de Grijalva arrived, one year before Cortes reached the Mexican
continent. Having found the remains of two human victims there,
they asked the natives why they sacrificed men to their idols, and
receiving for answer, that it was by orders of the kings of Acolhua,
the Spaniards gave the island the name of Ulua, by a natural cor
ruption of that word.
It is pretended that the fortress cost four milhons; and though this
immense sum is no doubt an exaggeration, the expense must have
been very great, when we consider that its foundations are below the
water, and that for nearly three centuries it has resisted all the force
of the stormy waves that continually beat against it. Many improve
ments and additions were gradually made to the castle : and, in the
time of the viceroys, a first-rate engineer paid it an annual visit, to

424 HOSTILITIES.
ascertain its condition, and to consider its best mode of defence, in
case of an attack. In 1603, however, Vera Cruz was sacked by the
Enghsh corsair, Nicholas Agramont, incited by one Lorenciho, who
had been condemned to death for murder in Vera Cruz, and had
escaped to Jamaica. Seven millions of dollars were carried off, be
sides three hundred persons of both sexes, whom the pirates aban
doned in the Island of Sacrificios, when they re-embarked.
In 1771 the viceroy, then the Marquis de la Croix, remitted a
million and a hah of dohars to the governor, in order that he might
put the castle in a state of defence; and the strong bulwarks which
stih remain, attest the labour that has been bestowed upon it. The
outer polygon, which looks towards Vera Cruz, is three hundired
yards in extent; to the north it is defended by another of two hun
dred yards; whilst a low battery is situated as a rear-guard in the
bastion of Santiago; and on the opposite front is the battery of San
Miguel. The whole fortress is composed of a stone which abounds
in the neighbouring island, a species of coral, excehent for building,
piedra mucara.
In 1822 no stronghold of Spanish power remained but this castle,
whose garrison was frequently reinforced by troops from Havana.
Vera Cruz itseh was then inhabited by wealthy and influential Spa
niards. Santa Anna then commanded in the province, under the
orders of Echavarri, the captain-general, and with instructions from
Yturbide, relative to the taking of the castle. The commandant
was the Spanish General Don Jose Davila. It was not, however,
tih the fohowing year, when Lemaur succeeded Davila in the com
mand of the citadel, that hostilities were begun by bombarding
Vera Cruz. i
Men, women, and children then abandoned the'city. Themerchants
went to Alvarado, twelve leagues off, whilst those who were driven
from their houses by a shower of balls, sought a miserable asylum
amongst the burning plains and miserable huts in the environs*
Some made their way to Jalapa, thirty leagues off; others to Cordova
and Orizava, equally distant. With some interruptions, hostilities
lasted two years, during which there was nearly a constant firing
from the city to the castle, and from the castle to the city.
The object of General Barragan, now commander-in-chief, was to
cut off all communication between the garrison of the castle and the
coasts, and to reduce them to hve solely upon salt provisions, fatal in
this warm and unhealthy country. In 1824 the garrison, diminished
to a mere handful, was replaced by five hundred men from the pe
ninsula ; and very soon these soldiers, shut up on the barren rocks,
surrounded by water, and exposed to the dangers of the climate,
without provisions and without assistance, were reduced to the most
miserable condition. The next year, Don Jose Copinger succeeded
Lemaur, and continued hostihties with fresh vigour.
This brave general, with his vahant troops, surrounded by the
sick and the dying, provisions growing scarcer every day, and those

FRENCH SQUADRON. 425
that remained corrupt and unfit to eat, yet resolved to do his duty,
and hold out to the last. No assistance arrived from Spain. A
Mexican fleet was stationed off the Island of Sacrificios and other
points, to attack any squadron that might come from thence; while
the north winds blew with violence, keeping back ah ships that
might approach the coasts. " Gods and men," says a furious repub
lican (Zavala), " the Spaniards had to contend with; having against
them, hunger, sickness, the fire and bahs of the enemies, a furious
sea covered with reefs, a burning atmosphere, and above ah, being
totally ignorant as to whether they should receive any assistance."
The minister of the treasury, Esteva, then came from Mexico,
and proposed a capitulation ; and the Spanish general agreed that
should no assistance arrive within a certain time, he would give up
the fortress; evacuating it with his whole garrison, and with the
suitable honours. The Spanish succours arrived a few days before
the term was expired, but the commander of the squadron, seeing
the superiority in point of numbers of the Mexican fleet, judged it
Eradent to return to Havana to augment his forces. But it was too
tte. On the fifteenth of September, the brave General Copinger,
with the few troops that remained to him, marehed out of the for
tress, terminating the final struggle against the progress of revolution,
but upholding to the last the character for constancy and valour
which distinguished the sons of ancient Spain.
Of its last assault by the French squadron in 1838, there is no
need to say any thing. Every newspaper, as you will, remember,
gave an account of the capitulation of what the French gazettes
cahed " San Juan de Ulua, the St. Jean d'Acre of the new world,
which our mariners saluted as the Queen of the Seas, vierge sans
tache," &c.
6th. — We have just had a visit from General Bustamante, "who,
with his aide-de-camp, a son of General Calderon (formerly governor
of Jalapa), intends shortly to sail in the Jason for Havana. We have
also had a visit from the commander of that vessel, Captain Puente,
who succeeded our friend Captain E  a; and who has been kindly
endeavouring to make arrangements for taking us also, not having
before been aware of our intentions of leaving Vera Cruz at this
period. But although we should have much pleasure in returning
ty the vessel that brought us, we fear that, Ayithout putting the
officers to great inconvenience, it Avih be impossible for them to ac
commodate so many, for we know the carte dupays. It is therefore
probable that we shah go by the Enghsh packet, which sails on the
eighth, but unfortunately goes round by Tampico,- not very agreeable
at this season.
We went to mass this morning, which was said to be particularly
erowded in consequence of the general desire to catch a glimpse of
the ex-president. .... ....
I find, personally, one important change in taste if not m opinion.
Vera Cruz cookery, which two years ago I thought detestable, now

426 NORTH WIND.
appears to me dehcious ! What excellent fish ! and what incompa
rable frijoles! Weh; this is a trifle; but after ah, in trifles as in
matters of moment, how necessary for a traveher to compare his
judgments at different periods, and to correct them ! First impres
sions are of great importance, if given only as such; but if laid dovra
as decided opinions, how apt they are to be erroneous ! It is hke
judging of individuals by their physiognomy and manners, without
having had time to study their character. We ah do so more or
less, but how frequently we find ourselves deceived !
7 th. — We went to the theatre last evening. In the boxes there
were only a lady and gentleman, besides our party. The pit, how
ever, was fuh; but there are no good actors at present. We have
been walking about to-day, notwithstanding the heat, purchasing
some necessary articles from French modistes and French perfumers,
most of whom, haAing got over the fever, are now very well satisfied
to remain here and make their fortune. We afterwards walked down
to the Mole, and saw the pleasantest sight that has met our eyes
since we left Mexico — the sea covered with ships. It was refreshing
to lo ok again on the dark blue waves, after so long an absence from
them. Commodore  , of Mexico, who was present, pointed out
the Jason, and the Tyrian, Captain Griffin, lying out in the harbourj
and strongly recommended us to go in the latter, as did the Enghsh
consul, with proper patriotism. We have requested him to take
our berths, when he goes to visit the captain on board this
evening 
No sooner has this been done beyond recall, than we find that
comfortable arrangements have been made for taking us in the Jason,
which goes direct to Havana. It is now too late, so we can only
regret our precipitation. There is another beautiful Spanish vessel
just arrived, the Liberal, Captain Rubalcava, who, with Captain
Puente, of the Jason, has been to see us this evening. If the wind-
holds fair, the packet sails to-morrow; but the experienced predict a
norther. The symptoms of this terrible wind, which blows in the Mexican
Gulf, from the autumnal to the vernal equinox, are known not only
to the sailors, but to all those who have hved some time in this city.
The variation in the barometer is the surest sign. A land, breeze
from the north-west first blows gently, then varies to the north-east,
then changes to the south. The heat is then suffocating, and the
summits of all the great mountains appear cloudless and distinct
against the deep blue sky, while round theh base floats a veil of semi-
transparent vapour.
Suddenly, the tempest bursts forth; and ah are instantaneously
reheved — ah but the poor mariners ! The air becomes refreshed 
clouds of dust come sweeping along the streets, driving away, as it
were, the pestilential atmosphere. Then there is no fever in Vera
Cruz. Ah communication is cut off between the castle and the city, and

THE TYRIAN. 427
wTe+tn ^ CitJ and a11 forelSn Bhipping- Sometimes the norther
lasts three or four days, sometimes even twelve. If it turns to a
southerly breeze, the tempest generally returns; if it changes to
the east or north-east, the breeze generally lasts three or four days,
and the ships in the port take advantage of this interval to escape,
and gam the high seas. These gales are particularly dreaded off the
coasts of Tampico.
8th.— We sail- in a few hours, the norte not having made its ap
pearance, so that we expect to get clear of the coast before it begins,
lhe Jason sails in a day or two, unless prevented by the gale. We
only knew this morning that it was necessary to provide mattresses
and sheets, &c., for our berths on board the packet. Fortunately,
all these articles are found ready made in this seaport town. We
have just received a packet of letters, particularly acceptable as
bringing us news of home before our departure. I have also received
two agreeable compagnons de voyage in the shape of books ; Stephens's
"Central America," and Washington Irving's "Life of Margaret Da
vison," opportunely sent me by Mr. Prescott. ...
Our next letters will be written either at sea, or from Tampico.

LETTER THE FIFTY-THIRD.
Sail in the Tyrian— Norther off Tampico— The Bar— The River Panuco— The
Pilot— The Shore— Alligator — "Paso de Dona Cecilia"— Tampico— Spanish
Consul's House — Society — Navigation — Banks of the Panuco — Extraordinary
Inoculation — The " Glorieta" — Leave Tampico — Furious Norther — Voyage
— Arrival at Havana. On Board H. B. M. Packet Tyrian, 15th.
On the 8th, having taken leave of the family of our friend, Seiior
Velasco, and of General Bustamante, whom we hope to see again in
Havana, we went out in a httle boat, accompanied as far as the
packet by several gentlemen, and in a short time were standing on
deck, looking our last at Vera Cruz and its sandbanks, and sopilotes,
and frowning castle, as the shores graduahy receded from our view,
while the Tyrian was making the best of her time to get clear of
reefs and rocks, before the arrival of the norther. We regretted to
find, that instead of being one of the new line of Enghsh packets,
the Tyrian was the last of the old line; small, ancient, and incom
modious, and destined to be paid off on her return to England.

428 NORTHERS OFF TAMPICO.
Captain Griffin, the commander, who looks hke an excehent, gentle
manly man, is in wretched health, and in a state of acute suffering.
There were no passengers but ourselves, and a young Mexican, guilt
less of any acquaintance with salt water, up to this date.
The very next morning out burst the norther, and with loud
howhng swept over the ocean, which rose and tossed to meet the
coining storm. Surely no wind ever had a voice so wildly mournful.
How the good ship rohed, and groaned, and creaked, and strained
her old timber joints ! What rocking, thumping, falling, banging
of heads at the low entry of the cabin! Water falling into
berths, people rolhng out of them. What fierce music at night, as
the wind, hke a funeral dirge, swept over the ocean, the rain falling
in torrents, and the sky covered Avith one dark, lugubrious pall !
And how lonely our ship seemed on the world of waters !
But the next day, the storm waxed fiercer stih, and the night was
worse than the day. The waves that dashed over the deck, made
theh way into the cabin. At one tiine, we thought the ship had
struck, and even the captain beheved that a mast had fallen. It was
only a huge wave that broke over the deck with a sound hke thun
der, drowning the wretched hens and ducks, who httle thought, when
they left their comfortable Enghsh poultry-yard, they were destined
to be drowned off Tampico — and drenching the men. Our httle
lamp, after swinging to and fro for some time went out, and left the
cabin in darkness. Impossible to sleep of course, and for the first
time at sea, I confess to having felt afraid. Each time that the ship
rohed upon her side on the slope of a huge billow, it seemed impos
sible that she could ever right again, or that she could avoid receiv
ing the whole contents of the next great watery mountain that came
roaring on.
On the morning of the eleventh there was still no abatement of
the storm. Ah was dark and dreary. The norther continued to
blow with unrelenting fierceness, and the ship to rock and roh amongst
a tumult of foaming bihows. The nights in this pitch darkness"
seemed interminable. The berths being constantly fihed with water,
we dragged our mattresses on the floor, and lay there wishing for
the dawn. But the dawn brought no relief. The wind howled on
like a fierce wild beast, roaring for its prey. I had made my way
every day up stairs, and by dint of holding on, and with a chair tied
with strong ropes, had contrived to sit on deck. But this day I
retreated under cover behind the helmsman, when, lo ! a large wave
burst over the ship, found me out in my retreat, and nearly throwing
down several stout sahors in its way, gave me the most complete ¦salt'
water bath I have_ had since I left New York. All that night we
were tossed about in storm and darkness.
On the_ thirteenth the wailing of the norther grew fainter, and
towards night it died away. On the fourteenth it veered Tound, and
the coast of Tamauhpas appeared in sight faintly.
This morning opened with a shght norther ; nevertheless they have

TAMPICO. 429
hung out the packet flag and cast anchor, in expectation of the pilot
boat. Meanwhile, all is at a stand-still, morally speaking, for we are
rolhng so that it is scarce possible to write comprehensibly. We see
the sad-looking shores of Tampico, long, low, and sandy, though to
the_ south stretching out into gloomy, faintly-seen woods. We can
distinguish the distant yellow sand and the white surf breaking
furiously over the bar. The day is gloomy but not cold. A shght
rain accompanies the hght north wind. Sea gulls are flying in circles
round the ship and skimming the surface of the waves. The master
looks impatient and anxious, and prognosticates another week of
northers. Vessels, they say, have been detained here thirty days,
and some even three months ! No notice is taken of our signal — a
sign that the bar is impassable.
16th. — The ship has rolled and pitched ah night, and to-day we
remain in the same predicament. Tampico, 1 8th.
Yesterday morning the wind was much hghter, and a pilot-boat
eame out early, in which the captain set off with his despatches; and
we being assured that we might cross the ominous bar in safety, hired
a boat for forty dohars, with ten sailors and a pilot, too glad at the
prospect of touching the sohd earth, even for one day. HaAring got
into this boat and being rowed out to the bar, we found that there
the sea was very high, even though the day was calm. The numerous
wrecks that have taken place here have given this bar a decidedly bad
reputation. Great precaution is necessary in crossing it, constant
sounding, and calm weather. It is formed by ahne of sandhills under
the water, whose northern point crosses that to the southward, and
across which there is a passage, whose position varies with the slfifting
sands, so that the pilots are chiefly guided by the surf.
Perched upon a sandbank was a regiment of enormous white
pehcans, of thoughtful and sage-hke physiognomy, ranged in a row,
as if to watch how we passed the bar. Over many a drowning crew
they have screamed their wild sea dirge, and flapped their great
white wings. But we crossed in safety, and in a few minutes more
the sea and the bar were behind us, and we were rowing up the wide
and placid river Panuco — an agreeable change. We stopped at the
house of the commandant, a large, tah individual, who marched out
and addressed us in Enghsh, and proved to be a native of the United
States. We stopped at a cohection of huts, to let our sailors breakfast,
Where there is the house of a celebrated character, Don Leonardo
Mata, a colossal old pilot, but who was from home at present. We
amused ourselves by wandering along the beach of the river and
making a cohection of beautiful shehs, which we left at the old pilots
house, to be kept there tih our return. A sort of garden, attached to
the house, is appropriately ornamented with the figure-head and
anchor from a wreck. We got into our boat again and glided along
the shores, on one side low and marshy, with great trees lying m the

430 TAMPICO.
water; on the other also low, but thickly wooded and with valuable
timber, such as logwood and ebony, together with cedars, India-
rubber trees, hmes, lemons, &c. On the bare trunk of a great tree,
half buried in the Avater, sat an amiable-looking alligator, _ its jaws
distended in a sweet, unconscious grin, as if it were catching flies,
and not deigning to notice us, though we passed close to it. A canoe
with an Indian woman in it, was paddhng about at a very httle dis
tance. All these beautiful woods to the right contain a host of ve
nomous reptiles, particularly the rattlesnake. Cranes and herons
were fluttering across the surface of the river, and the sportsmen
brave the danger of the reptiles, for the sake of shooting these and
the beautiful Tose-coloured spoonbills and pheasants that abound there.
The approach to Tampico is very pretty, and about two miles
from it on the wooded shore, in a Httle verdant clearing, is a beau
tiful ranchito — a small farmhouse, white and clean, with a pretty
piazza. In this farm they keep cows and sell milk, and it looks the
very picture of rural comfort, which always comes with double charm
when one has been accustomed to the sight of the foaming surges and
the discomforts of a tempest-tossed ship. The sailors called it " El
Paso (the pass) de Dofia Cecilia;" which sounded delightfully ro
mantic. The proprietress, this Dofia Ceciha, who hves in such
peaceful sohtude, surrounded by mangroves, with no other drawback
to her felicity but snakes and alligators, haimted my imagination. I
trusted she was young, and lovely, and heart-broken; a pensive lay
nun who had retreated from the vanities and deceits of the world to
this secluded spot, where she lived like a heroine upon the produce
of her flocks, with some " neat-handed Philhs" to milk the cows
and churn the butter, while she sat rapt in contemplation of the stars
above or the snakes below. It was not till after our arrival at Tam
pico that I had the mortification to discover that the interesting crea
ture, the charming recluse, is seventy-eight, and has just buried her
seventh husband ! I accept the account doubtingly, but ' henceforth
shall endeavour to picture her to my mind as an ancient enchantress,
dwelling amongst serpents, and making her venomous charms of
" Adder's fork, and blind-worm's sting,
Lizard's leg, and owlet's wing."
As you approach Tampico, the first houses that meet the eye,
have the effect of a number of coloured bandboxes; some blue
some white, wlfich a party of tired milliners have laid down amongst
the rushes. On leaAing the boat, and walking through the town,
though there are some sohd stone dwelhngs, I could have.fancied
myself in a New England village. Neat " shingle palaces," with
piazzas and pillars; nothing Spanish, and upon the whole, an air
of cleanness and cheerfulness astonishing to me who have fancied Tam
pico an earthly purgatory. We afterwards heard that these houses
were actually made in the United States and sent out here. There
are some good-looking stores ; and though there is certainly httle
uniformity in the architecture of the houses, yet considering the

TAMPICO. 431
city was built only sixteen years ago, I consider it a slandered
place, m 1825 there were but a few Indian huts here, and any
little commerce there was, concentrated itseh in Pueblo View which
stands on the shores of a lake, some miles off. We were taken to
the house of the Spanish consul, a fine, airy, stone building with
a gay view from the Avindows ;— the very first house that was built
in the place.
Its owner, Don Juan de la Lastra, Spanish vice-consul, is not
here himseh, but we were kindly received by Don Jose de'Comez
Mira, the consul. In the evening, all the principal Spaniards in
the place came to see C  n ; and having arrived here yesterday
morning as perfect strangers, without the probabihty of finding any
one whom we knew, we find ourselves surrounded by the most
unexpected and gratifying attentions. As to what is cahed society,
there is hterally none in Tampico. Those who live here, have
come in the hope of making their fortune ; and the few married men
who are amongst them have been unwilling to expose their wives to
the unhealthy chmate, the plague of mosquitoes and xin-xins, the
intermittent fevers, which are more to be dreaded here than the
yellow fever, and the nearly total deprivation of respectable female
society. The men, at least the Spaniards, unite in a sort of club,
and amuse their leisure evenings with cards and bilhards ; but the
absence of ladies' society must always make it dull. Riding and
shooting in the neighbourhood are their out-of-door amusements,
and there is excellent sport along the river, wlfich may be enjoyed
when the heat is not too intense.
Our captain,/who has paid us a visit tlfis evening, Avith several
Englishmen, expects to get off to-morrow. We staid at home
in the morning on account of the heat, and wrote letters, but in
the afternoon we made the most of our time, walking about the
city, in which there is not much to see. There are many comfort
able-looking large houses, generally built according to the customs
of the country whereof the proprietor is a native. Were it not for
the bar, which is a terrible obstacle, not only from the danger in
crossing it, but from the detention that it causes, vessels haAang been
stopped outside for months, Tampico would become a most flou
rishing port. Besides that the depth of water can permit vessels
of burden to anchor near the town, there is an interior naviga
tion up the country, for upwards of forty leagues.
The banks of the river are described as being very beautiful,
which we can easily beheve from what we have already seen ; but for
its beauties after passing Tampico ; its wooded shores dotted with
white ranchos, its large cattle-farms, and its picturesque, old Indian
town of Panuco, we must trust to hearsay. The country in the vi
cinity is described as being a wilderness of rare trees, rnatted together
with graceful and. flowering creepers, the wild haunts of birds of
brio-ht and beautiful plumage ; but our ardour to visit these tangled
shrubberies was damped by the accounts of the myriads of xin-xins

432 INOCULATION.
and garrapatos ; httle insects that bury themselves in the skin, pro
ducing hritation and fever; of the swarming mosquitoes, — the horrid
caimans that bask on the shore; and worse than ah, the venomous
snakes that ghde amongst the rank vegetation. Parrots and butter
flies and fragrant flowers wih not compensate for these.
We have just been hearing a curious circumstance connected with.
poisonous reptiles, which I have learned for the first time. Here,
and ah along the coasts, the people are in the habit of inoculating
themselves with the poison of the rattlesnake, which renders them
safe from the bite of ah venomous animals. The person to be ino
culated is pricked with the tooth of the serpent, on the tongue, in
both arms, and on various parts of the body; and the venom intro
duced into the wounds. An eruption comes out, which lasts a few
days. Ever after, these persons can handle the most venomous
snakes with impunity ; can make them come by calling them, have
great pleasure in fondling them; and the bite of these persons is
poisonous ! You wih not beheve this; but we have the testimony of
seven or eight respectable merchants to the fact. A gentleman who
breakfasted here this morning, says that he has been vainly endea
vouring to make up his mind to submit to the operation, as he is very
much exposed where he lives, and is obliged to travel a great deal on
the coast; that when he goes on these expeditions, he is always ac
companied by his servant, an inoculated negro, who has the power of
curing him, should he be bit, by sucking the poison from the wound.
He also saw this negro cure the bite given by an inoculated Indian
boy to a white boy with whom he was fighting, and who was the
Stronger of the two. The stories of the eastern jugglers, and their
power over these reptiles, may perhaps be accounted for in this way.
I cannot say that I should hke to have so much snaky nature trans
ferred into my composition, nor to hve amongst people whose bite is
venomous. . . .
We have just returned from a moonhght walk to the Glorieta, a
pubhc promenade which they are making here, where there are some
stone benches for the promenaders, close to which some public-
spirited individuals had dragged the carcase of a horse, which obhged
us to retrace our steps with ah convenient speed.
As for provisions in this place, if we may judge by the specimens
we have seen in this house, they are both good and abundant. We
had especiahy fine fish, and a variety of vegetables. To-morrow,
alas! we return to the packet, much refreshed, however, by two
pleasant days on shore, and consoling ourselves for our prolonged
voyage by the reflection, that, had we gone direct to Havana, we
should not have seen Tampico; and, as La Fontaine's travelling
pigeon says, " Quiconque ne voit guere
N'a guere a dire aussi. Mon voyage depeint
Vous sera d'un plaisir extreme.
Je dirai : j'etais la j telle chose m'avint :
Vous y croirez etre vous-meme."*

STORMS. 433
Tyman, 19th.
Once more on board our floating prison. A norte is expected this
evening, but at least it wih now be in our favour, and wih drive us
towards Havana. Our Spanish friends concluded their cordial and
disinterested kindness, by setting off with us by daybreak this
morning, in a large boat with Spanish colours unfurled, crossing the
bar vrith us, coming on board, and running no small risk in recross-
ing it, with every prospect of a norther before their eyes. We
stopped at the house of the " Marine Monster," Don Leonardo Mata,
before crossing the bar, took up our shehs, and had the fehcity of
making his acquaintance. He is a colossal old man, almost gigantic
in height, and a Falstaff in breadth — gruff in his manners, yet with
a certain clumsy good-nature about him. He performs the office of
pilot with so much exclusiveness, charging such high prices, govern
ing the men with so iron a sway, and arranging every thing sa<
entirely according to his own fancy, that he is a complete sovereign
in his own small way — the tyrant of Tampico. He has in his wea
ther-beaten face such a mixture of bluffness and slyness, with his
gigantic person, and abrupt, half-savage manners, that, altogether,'
I conceive him to be a character who might have been worthy the
attention of Walter Scott, had he chanced to encounter him. Old
and repulsive as he is, he has lately married a pretty young girl — a
subject on which he does not brook raillery. One amiable trait the
old tyrant has in his character — his affection for his old mother, who
is upwards of ninety, and who resides at Mahon, and to whom he is
constant in his attentions. At one time he was in the habit of sending
her smah sums of money; but as they were frequently lost, he sent
her five hundred dohars at once by a safe conveyance. The old
woman, he said, was so frightened by seeing such a quantity of
money in her hut, that she could not sleep, and at length intrusted
it to a friend, who carried it off altogether. Since then he has
assigned her fifteen dollars a month, upon which the old woman
Hves in what she considers great luxury.
We took leave of our friends an hour or two ago, but do not expect
to set sail till the afternoon, as they are discharging the quicksilver
which our vessel brought, and loading the silver which we carry
away. Three young Englishmen came on board this morning, to
see the packet, and are making a disagreeable visit, being perfectly
overwhelmed by sea-sickness.
20th.— Last night arose a furious norther. To-day it continues;
but as it is driving us towards our desired haven, and away from
these dangerous coasts, we need not complain. As usual on these

* He who sees little, little can he say;
But when my travels I describe some day,
And say, " That chanced to me— there I have been —
The pleasure you will feel will be so great.
You will believe, while hearing me relate,
That all these wonders you yourself have seen.

434 VOYAGE.
occasions, I find myself alone on the deck, never suffering from the
universal prostrator of landsmen. By way of variety, I have been
sitting in the cabin, holding on to the leg of a table, and trying to
read Stephens, with as much attention as circumstances wih permit.
All further attempts at writing must be delayed!
30th. — On the 21st the norther continued with unabated violence,
the wild wind and the boihng waves struggling on the agitated
bosom of the ocean, great bihows swelling up one after the other, and
threatening to ingulf us; the ship labouring and creaking as if ah its
timbers were parting asunder, and the captain in such a state of in
tense suffering, that we were in great apprehension for his life.
Horrible days, and yet more horrible nights ! But they were suc
ceeded by fine* weather, and at length we had the consolation of
seeing the moon, smihng placidly down upon us, hke a harbinger of
peace. On the evening of the twenty-sixth the fuh moon rose with
a troubled countenance, her disk obscured by angry clouds. She
shook them off, but stih looked turbid and superb. A gloomy cloud,
black as night, stih stretched over her hke a pah, thickly veiling, yet
not entirely obscuring her hght, and soon after she appeared, riding
serenely in the high heavens, mildly triumphant. Of ah who sing
the praises of the moon, who should love her blessed beams from his
inmost heart hke the seaman? Then the angry clouds dispersed; —
the north wind blew freshly, but not fiercely, as if even his blustering
fury were partly soothed by the influence of her placid hght; — the
studding-sails were set, and the Tyrian bounded on her course, eight
knots an hour.
The next day the wind died away, and then blew hghtly from
the opposite quarter. We were about two hundred and fifty miles
from Havana, but were then driven in the direction of Yucatan. The
two fohowing days we had contrary wind, but charming weather.
We studied the chart, and read, and walked on deck, and played at
drafts, and sat in the moonhght. The sea was covered with flying
fish, and the " Portuguese men of war," as the sailors cah the inde
pendent little nautilus, sailed contemptuously past us in their fairy
barks, as if they had been httle steamers. A man feh overboard, but
the weather being calm, was saved immediately. We have been
tacking about and making our way slowly towards Havana, in a zig
zag hne. Yesterday evening the moon rose in the form of a large
heart, of a red gold colour. This morning, about four o'clock, a fine
fresh breeze sprung up from the north-east, and we are going on our
course at a great rate, with some hopes of anchoring below the Morro
this evening. To-day being Sunday, we had prayers on deck, which
the weather had not before permitted; — the sahors all clean and
attentive, as Enghsh sailors are. Last night they sang " Rule Bri
tannia," with great enthusiasm. Havana, 31st.
Last evening we once more saw the beautiful bay of Havana, once
more passed the Morro, and our arrival was no sooner known, than

HAVANA. 435
1«%nCaff8in:genfind-f D°n Geromino Val<^s> ^nt his falua to bring
us to tiie city, and even wished us to go to his palace; but Don
. . ° a  a> who gave us so hospitable a reception on our first
visit, came on board, and kindly insisted on taking us to his house,
where we found every thing as elegant and comfortable as before
and trom whence I now write these few hnes.
InjiIjevni<ist °f 0Ur Pleasure at being once more on dry land, sur
rounded by our former friends, and at receiving letters from home
we were shocked and distressed to hear of the unexpected death of
our friend, the Sefiora de Gutierrez Estrada, who had followed her
husband to Havana in his exile. What a blow to him, to her
mother, to ah her friends ! . .
I shah send off this letter by the first opportunity, that you may
know of our safe arrival.

LETTER THE FIFTY-FOURTH.

Havana — The Carnival — The Elssler — La Angosta — Ingenio of Count V— -a
— General Bustamante — Lord Morpeth — Leave Havana— Voyage in the
Medway — Old Friends— Return to the United States. Havana, February 27th.
It has been very agreeable for us to return here as private indivi
duals, and to receive the same attentions as when we came in a pubhc
situation, but now with more real friendliness. Having arrived at
the time of the carnival, we have been in the midst of masked balls,
which are curious to see for once ; of operas, dinners, and every species
of gaiety. But returning so soon, I shah enter into no details. The
weather is beautiful, and this house, situated^ on the bay, receives
every sea-breeze as it blows. The Elssler is still attracting immense
and enthusiastic crowds; and is now dancing at the theatre of Tacon,
where she is seen to much more advantage than in the other. We
have been breakfasting in the luxurious Quintas in the neighbour
hood, driving in the Paseo every evening in an open volante, at
tending the opera ; in short, leading so gay a hfe, that a httle rest
in the country wih be agreeable; — and we have accepted with plea
sure the invitation of Count and Countess F  a, to spend some
time at La Angosta, one of his country places ; a sugar and coffee
estate. General Bustamante arrived in the Jason, a few days after
its, they having sailed later. They had been very anxious concern-
2 G

436 THE MEDWAY.
ing the fate of the Tyrian, in these northern gales off Tampico. We
have received letters from our Mexican friends, and learn, with great
sorrow, the death of the Dowager Marquesa de Vivanco, and of the
Sefiora H  a of Pascuaro — also the murder of a Spanish physi
cian, Avith whom Ave were intimately acquainted, — at his distant
hacienda. La Angosta, 13th March.
We have spent a most agreeable fortnight at La Angosta, and
have also visited the Count and Countess V  a, in their planta
tion near this. General Bustamante was here for a day or two.
Lord Morpeth also passed a few days with us; so that _ altogether
we have had a pleasant party. We have been delighted with the ele
gant hospitality, without ostentation or etiquette, which we have
met with here. But we shall now return so soon, that I shah re
serve ah particulars till Ave meet.
On board the Steam-Ship Medway, April 28th.
With a warning of only three hours, we came on board this
splendid steamer, eight days ago, after taking a hurried leave of our
kind friends, at least of all those who are now in Havana; for the
Count and Countess de F  a, and the Count and Countess de
V  a are still in the country. Don B  o H  a and his
family accompanied us to the ship in the government falua. Ge
neral Bustamante, with his young aide-de-camp, together with
Sefior de Gutierrez Estrada, and various other gentlemen, hearing
of our sudden departure, came out in boats to take leave of us.
Alas ! those leave-takings.
We had the agreeable surprise of finding that we were acquainted
with ah our fellow-passengers. There are our particular friends
the E  s, the padre F  n, and Mr. G  s, all from Mexico;
M. D  s de M  s, who Avas attached to the French legation in
Mexico, and is now returning from a mission to California; Mr.
and Miss  of Boston, &c. We came on board on the evening
of the twentieth, but did not leave the harbour tih the morning of
the twenty-first. The day was beautiful, and as we passed out, we
could distinguish the waAing of many handkerchiefs from the bal
conies. In this floating palace, Avith large airy berths, a beautiful
cabin, an agreeable society, books, a band of music, ices, &c. ; not
to mention that important point, an excehent and good-hearted
captain, we have passed our time as pleasantly as if we were in the
most splendid hotel.
On the twenty-third we went out in a httle boat, in the middle
of the night, to Nassau, in New Providence, to buy some of those
beautiful specimens of shell-flowers, for which that place is cele
brated. We set off again at three in the morning of the twenty-
fourth, on which day, being Sunday, we had prayers on board.
The weather was beautiful, and even with contrary wind, the Med
way went steaming on her course at the rate of nine knots an hour.

RETURN HOME. 437
On the twenty-fifth we lay off Savannah. A pilot came on board,
and we went up the river in a boat to the city, where we passed an
agreeable day, and in the evening returned to the ship. Crowds of
people from Savannah went out to see the steamer. The next day we
cast anchor off Charleston, and again a pilot came on board; but the
day was stormy and gloomy, and only two of the passengers went on
shore. We have now had several days of bad weather ; wind and
rain; and one night a storm of thunder and hghtning; yet down in
the cabin there is scarce any motion, and we have been sitting reading
and writing as quietly as if we were in our OAvn rooms. After two
years and a half of spring and summer, we feel the cold very much.
29th. — We are now passing the Narrows. Once more the green
shores of Staten Island appear in sight. We left them two years
and six months ago ; just as winter was preparing to throw his Avhite
shroud over the dolphin hues of the dying autumn; the weather
gloomy and tearful. Now the shores are covered with the vegetation
of spring, and the grass is as green as emeralds. I shall write no
more, for we must arrive to-day; and I shah be the bearer of my
own despatches.
The day is bright and beautiful. The band is playing its gayest
airs. A little boat is coming from the Quarantine. In a few mi
nutes more we shah be at home !

THE END.

C. WHITING, BEAUFORT HOUSE, STKAND.

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