Yale University Library 39002028028844 'yi*;-,33<£ »Y^LE«'¥]Mn¥IEIESflir¥" My Sixty Years on the Plains Trapping, Trading, and Indian Fighting ori" <^ By W: T. iHamilton ("Bill Hamilton") Edited by E. T. Sieber With Eight Full-Page Illustrations By Charles M. Russell ^v ¦'t^a' /;¦¦ ¦ /?: '^tl'fi^i** New York Forest and Stream Publishing Co. 1905 Copyright, 1905 BY THE FOREST AND STREAM PUBLISHING COMPANY C2 Yl ^, :>Sk> Ube ttniclkerbocliec ptees, new ^tlt CONTENTS CHAPTER I PAGB The Vote that Made me an Indian Fighter. St. Louis. I Join Bill Williams's Party. The Boy Catches on. A Parley with Kiowas. Friendly Cheyennes. A Traders' Trick. My First Sign-Talk. A Good Trade. Swift Runner my Friend. Athletics and Longevity. 17-27 CHAPTER II Buffalo Hunt with Cheyennes. A Stirring Picture. My First Buffalo. Perils of the Chase. We are Feasted on our Return. Character of the Cheyennes. Pern- . mican and Depuyer a Substitute for, Bread. We Leave the Cheyennes 28-34 CHAPTER III Sioux Village on the South Platte. A Pawnee Horse Raid. We Give Chase. Wonderful Endurance of the Indian Pony. The Stock Recaptured. My First Shot at an Indian. Return with Pawnee Scalps. Coup-Sticks. Counting Coups 3S~4^ CHAPTER IV Fur-Trade Rivalries. "Free Traders" and the Com panies. Wealth of the Sioux. War-Parties and Singing. Indian Revenge. We Sell our Furs for Good Prices. Bill Williams a Diplomat. Visited by Arapa hoes. We Trade, Feast, and Smoke. A Threatening Party of Crows. " Business Diplomacy " . 42-50 Contents CHAPTER V ^¦AGB In -^ Dangerous Country. We Find a Moccasin and Prepare for Trouble. Attacked in the Night by Blackfeet. The Enemy Repulsed. Scalps Taken. Pursuit. Williams a. Reckless Indian Fighter. I Lift my First Scalp. We Wipe out the Entire Party. Beaver Trapping an Art Si~S9 CHAPTER VI Little Wind River. A Wonderful Hot Spring. Shoshone Scouts. Chief Washakie. We Trade our Blackfoot Plunder. Shoshone Horse for Blackfoot Scalp. A Night of Council, Scalp Dance, and War Song. The Fate of Two Trappers. "Good for Evil" not the Trappers' Creed. Shakespeare in a Trapper's Pack. Mountain Men Great Readers. A White Beaver . 60-69 CHAPTER VII The Scouts Report Indian War-Parties. • We Resolve to Clear the Country of them. Scouting for Hostiles. A Want of Strategy. Some Actual Warfare. A Wild Scene. We Have a Close Encounter. We Rush the Knoll. A Night of Mingled Mourning and Rejoicing 7o-77 CHAPTER VIII A Brush with Piegans. We Part from the Shoshones. I Mystify Washakie. Indian Horsemanship. The Sho shones. Beaver Trapping. My First Bear. A Lesson in Bear Shooting. Fascination of the Mountain Life 7»-87 CHAPTER IX The Blackfoot Fort in Utah. A Good Day for Bears. Fort Bridger. Mountain Men's Law We Trade our Furs. Infatuated with the Life. Exploration of the Yellowstone in 1839. Afterwards I Visit that Country. Trappers' Tales. My Skill in Sign-Language. We Go with Washakie's Band , , , , , 88-98 Contents CHAPTER X PAGE Horse-Racing. Shooting from Horseback. Whites Outshoot Indians. Williams Leaves us. Navajo Blankets. A Lost Manuscript . . . 99-102 CHAPTER XI An Expedition to Explore Utah. The "Boy" Becomes "Bill." Old Bear Orders us off. "Big Chief never Smokes with White Dogs." Trapper Life in a Hostile Indian Country. Fortified in Camp Weber. The American Trapper a Fine Type. We Hear Wolf Howls and Prepare for Attack. The Enemy Repulsed with Heavy Losses. A "Big Talk" and Peace. " It Costs too much Blood to Fight Trappers " . 1 03-1 14 CHAPTER XII Bear River. The Bannocks. A Swim with the Mercury 38° below Zero. The Pah Utes a Low Race. Poisoned Arrows. Brown's Hole and its Gay Winter Life. I am Made Trader. A Terrible Storm. Our Horses Stolen by Blackfeet. A Hard Ride. We Recapture the Stock . . 115 -122 CHAPTER XIII Williams Returns. Tygee the Bannock. A Lucky 13. Indians of the Blackfoot Country. Life at a Trappers' Rendezvous. Hostile Bannocks. Howlack in a Rage. We Prepare for Trouble. Prowling Wolves when Shot Prove to be Indians. Spies who did not Return. Three Hundred Warriors Charge the Camp. A Desperate Fight. The Enemy Routed . 123-132 CHAPTER XIV The Bannocks Taught a Lesson. Indians as Fighters. Excited Umatillas. The Walla Walla Valley. Its Fish and Game. The Walla Wallas. Tygh Valley. Indians Salmon Spearing. My First Sight of the Columbia. Latitude 49°. Vicissitudes of the Trap per's Life 133-140 Contents CHAPTER XV PAGE Rich Beaver Country. A Hunter's Paradise. Great Klamath Lake. In Winter Quarters. A Horse Pack Worth $7200. "Boston Men" and "King George's.'' In the Modoc Country. We Dig Rifle-Pits. Trap pers' Coats of Mail. Prepared for Attack . 141-149 CHAPTER XVI The Modocs Threaten to Rub us out. The Camp Rushed. Hand-to-Hand Fighting. A Furious Charge. We Lose Three Men. Modoc Slaughter. An In cident of the Modoc War of 1856. The California Rangers. The Massacre of Bloody Point . 150-157 CHAPTER XVII Honey Lake Valley. Thieving Indians. We Turn South. The Truckee River. Degraded Red Men. In a Mountain Storm. Fortune Favors the Brave. A Dismal Camp. Snow-Bound. Glimpse of the Great American Desert. Camp on Carson River. A Pah Ute's Square Meal. Gratified Squaws and Skinned Beavers. A Big Catch of Fur. Humboldt Lake. Hostile Utes. One of our Men Ambushed and Killed. A Sharp Fight and a Decisive Victory. We Capture Forty-three Horses. Our Revenge . . . 158-173 CHAPTER XVIII We Move Camp. Crestfallen Trappers. Blackfoot Vic tims. Fur Company Traders. Hot Springs. Our Company Breaks up. Expedition to the Big Horn Mountains. We Stand off the Blackfeet. An Arro gant Leader and a Coward. The "Tartar Outfit." 174-181 Contents CHAPTER XIX PAGE Washakie again. The Joy of Youth. A Buffalo Hunt. Stinking Water. Crow and Shoshone Horse-Racing. A Peaceful Camp. Sign-Language. The Mexican War. I Visit St. Louis. Home is Changed. "West ward Ho!" I Pilot an Oregon Emigrant Train. Attacked by Pawnees. Out of Deference to the Ladies we do not Scalp. Mormon Emigrants. Fort Hall. The Fur Companies and their Employees. 182-193 CHAPTER XX Fort Bridger. "Doby Men." California Gold. We De cide to Go to the Mines. Fate of Bill Williams. Hunting and Trapping in the Big Horn. Humpy a War-Party Leader. We Give the Easterners a Lesson in Indian Fighting. Washakie Identifies the Scalps as Pend Oreilles. ..... 194-204 CHAPTER XXI Bound for California. Furs and Gold. On the Old Camp Ground. An Undisturbed Grave. The Indians Hold aloof. Crossing the Range. Sacramento. We Trap pers Turn Miners, and Stake our Claims. Barbarous Murder. . . .... 205-215 CHAPTER XXII Miners Killed by Indians. A Gloomy Outlook. The " Mountaineer Miners." Rifle Barrels for Crowbars. Our Circus Entry into Nevada City. A Council of War. Perkins Advises Vigorous Action. We Take the Trail. More Indian Outrages. We Overtake the Hostiles. An Attack and a Stubborn Defence. A Brave Chief. Good Work of the Sharps Rifle. "Sil ver Tip" Has his Ear Split and Russell Gets a Bullet through his Hat. The Indians Utterly Routed and Many Killed. White Men's Scalps to Teach a Lesson. A Big Lot of Plunder. The Trappers are Made to Blush. We Have a Triumphal Ovation and are Hailed as Avengers. Our Fame Spreads. . . ¦ 216-226 IO Contents CHAPTER XXIII PAGE Our Services in Request at Hangtown (Placerville). We Meet the Indians at Biglow's Lake. A Desperate Charge. Mexican War Veterans Save the Day. To Kill a Chief is to Win the Battle. Our Trained Horses. Fastidious Trappers Annoyed by Blood Spots on their Buckskin Suits. The Owner Gets his Mules. The Trinity Massacre. "Tarheads" Chastised. The Trap pers in the Rogue River and Modoc Wars. The Pitt River Massacre. Our Band Breaks up. Through the Modoc Country again. Fort Walla Walla. I Go as Scout 227-234 CHAPTER XXIV Death of RusseU. A Brave Man and a True Comrade. I am Left alone. My Horse Hickory. A Business Trip to Trade and Spy. In the Enemies' Camp. My Part nearly Chokes me. An Extraordinary Trade. We Get what we Came for. The Spokane River Campaign. I Establish a Trading-Post at Missoula. Fort Benton. The Expedition of 1874 with General Crook. American Horse. Later Years. . . 235-244 ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Portrait of Author . . . Frontispiece "I Broke the Cow's Back" .... 30 "His Arrow Lodged in the Fleshy Part of my Horse's Shoulder" ..... 38 Washakie, Chief of the Snakes ... 64 "Next Morning Some Utah Indians Called on us " 96 Freetraders 178 Pawnee Horse Thieves 190 "The Trappers Passed through them with their Colt's Revolvers" .... 228 THE WESTERN MOUNTAINEER IN writing this book the author had only one end in view, that of relating in a simple way his experiences as a mountaineer. In these days, when such experiences are fast be coming a thing of the past, the story is of special interest. The mountaineers as a class were unique. Life itself had little value in their estimation. They were pushing, adventurous, and fearless men, who thought nothing of laying down their lives in the service of a friend, or often, it might be, only as a matter of humanity. Theirs was a brotherhood in which one man's life was entirely at the service of any of its members, regardless of friendship or even of acquaint anceship. Equipped with nothing but their skill and endurance, a few ponies, a gun or two, and pro visions enough to last them for the day, they set out to make their way through a vast wil derness that held all the terrors of the unknown. 13 1 4 The Western Mountaineer They became self-reliant, and encountered ob stacles only to overcome them with a dash and courage which amaze and delight us. Mr. William T. Hamilton is a living example of this type of men. He is now in his eighty- third year, and is still in full possession of his acute intellect. He is a general favorite wher ever he is known, and is familiarly styled "Uncle Bill." He spent his whole life, from the time he was twenty, on the plains, and is an authority on Indian Hfe and customs. He was also acknowledged by all to be the greatest sign-talker on the plains, either Indian or white ; and was able to converse with all tribes. All Indian tribes use the same signs, though speaking a different language. Sign-talking among Indians will soon be a lost art, for the present generation is not hand ing its knowledge down to its children. In 1882, while Mr. Hamilton was a witness in the Star Route trial in Washington, the Smithsonian Institution endeavored to photograph these signs, but with indifferent success. The author has been extremely modest in describing the Indian fights, stating only the simple facts. These simple facts accentuate the valor and intrepidity of the trappers, when brought to bay by hostile tribes. The Western Mountaineer 15 His story also gives, for the first time, an account of three years of the life of the great scout and mountaineer, Bill Williams, one of the prominent figures in the early history of the plains. To the efforts of these heroes we owe the great advances civilization has made in the West. They reclaimed this vast and valuable territory from the outlaws and the Indians. They "blazed the trail" that was to lead the fron tiersman to valuable deposits and rich agricul tural regions. They set an example for courage and perseverance which will keep their memory always bright in the hearts of true Americans. HiLMA S. SlEBER. Park City, Montana, August, 1905. CHAPTER I The Vote that Made me an Indian Fighter. St. Louis. I Join Bill Williams's Party. The Boy Catches on. A Parley with Kiowas. Friendly Cheyennes. A Traders' Trick. My First Sign-Talk. A Good Trade. Swift Runner my Friend. Athletics and Longevity. ON the river Till, in Cheviot Hills, Scotland, in the year 1825, twenty -five men formed a company for the purpose of emigrating. These men built themselves a bark, and when ready to sail held a council to determine whether their destination would be India or America. A vote was taken, which resulted in a tie, thus forcing the captain to cast his ballot. He voted for America, and by so doing destined me to fight Indians instead of hunting Bengal tigers in India. My father was one of the company, and his brother was the captain. I was just two years and ten months of age when we landed at New Orleans. My father had means and we travelled all over the States, finally settling in St. Louis 17 1 8 My Sixty Years on the Plains eighteen months later. Here I remained until I was twenty years of age, receiving five years of schooling. In the meantime chills and fevers were un dermining my constitution, and the doctor ordered a change of climate. My father made arrangements with a party of hunters and trap pers, who were in St. Louis at the time, to allow me to accompany them on their next trip, which would last a year. The party consisted of eight men, aU free trappers, with Bill Williams and Perkins as leaders. These two men had had fifteen years' experience on the plains amongst Indians, and had a wide reputation for fearless courage and daring exploits. A good trading outfit was purchased, one third of which my father paid for, giving me a corresponding interest in the trip. We started in the spring of 1842 with wagons and pack animals, making for Independence, Mo., which was the headquarters for all moun taineers in those days. At Independence we sold our wagons and rigged up a complete pack outfit, as our route would take us where it would be difficult for wagons to travel. I was still wearing my city clothes, and mountain men present asked Williams what he My Sixty Years on the Plains 19 was going to do with that city lad in the moun tains. This remark cut me deeply, and I hur ried to the frontier store and traded all my fine clothes, shirts, and dickeys, which were worn in those days, for two suits of the finest buck skin, such as these merchants always kept on hand to fleece greenhorns like myself, making five hundred per cent, profit in the trade. Next morning I appeared dressed h la prairie, and the old trappers noticed the change and said, "Williams, that boy of yours will make a mountaineer if he catches on at this rate." We all went to work getting our pack outfit ready, which was accomplished before night. Next morning, the 15th of March, 1842, we started, bidding adieu to the remaining moun tain men, who were all making preparations to start on their different routes for trapping and trading. The trappers and traders of that day were brave and reckless men, who never gave a second thought to the danger in their calling. We made good time and reached Salt Creek on March 20th. Camp had just been made when we saw in the distance a small herd of buffalo coming directly towards us. Williams gave orders to corral all stock. No second order was needed with these mountain men, who acted in unison like a flash when occasion 20 My Sixty Years on the Plains called for action. The stock was barely se cured when the buffalo passed in close vicinity of camp, followed by thirty painted Kiowa warriors. A wild and savage-looking outfit they were. I had seen many Indians in St. Louis at different times, but none so wild and savage as these were. It was at this time that I received my first lesson in how to deal with wild Indians, or, more properly speaking, how to control their overt acts. Our packs were placed in a triangle, answer ing in case of need to a good breastwork. Each man was armed with a rifle, two pistols, a tomahawk, and a large knife, commonly called "tooth -picker." Besides this, two of our men had bows and arrows, and were experts with them. The Indians came up and examined our out- flt and demanded pay for passing through their country. Williams gave them to understand that they could not go through the outfit, nor would they receive pay for passing through the country, informing them that this was Pawnee country. The Kiowas at that time were semi- hostile, robbing and killing when it could be done with impunity. I stood by Williams during the parley, much interested in the conversation, which was en- My Sixty Years on the Plains 21 tirely by signs. The rest of the men were in what we called our fort, with stern and savage looks on their faces. Williams was well up in Indian ways and treatment in any and every emergency, and finally gave the leader, or chief, as he called himself, some tobacco. They departed, look ing daggers at us. Williams informed me that there was no chief in the outfit, and that it was only a small thieving party led by a young brave, who had two feathers stuck in his scalp-lock. We kept close watch during the night, ex pecting that the Indians would attempt to steal some of our stock or attack camp. Old experienced mountain men leave nothing to chance. Many outfits, within my knowledge, have come to grief through placing confidence in the red man, who always covets the belong ings of the paleface. Nothing disturbed us during the night, and in the morning we started down Salt Creek to the Platte River, where Williams expected to find Cheyennes, hoping to trade them out of some furs. We travelled up the Platte River to Cherry Creek, seeing plenty of fresh Indian signs, but no Indians. The camp was kept well supplied with buffalo 22 My Sixty Years on the Plains and antelope steak and ribs. The ribs are specially fine, and are highly appreciated by every one, whether mountaineer or dweller in civilization. We camped on the North Platte River about two miles below where Cherry Creek empties; and about sundown three young Indians, who had been scouting for hostiles, rode into camp. They were Cheyennes, and the very ones that Williams was looking for, as they were gener ally well supplied with all kinds of furs. The Indians told us that their village was a short distance up the creek. Williams gave them tobacco for their chief, old White Antelope, and told them that we would visit the village on the following day. He then invited them to supper for the purpose of finding out what the tribe was most in need of, which is quite a trick in trading with Indians, though I believe the same rule works with white men. At all events, I never knew it to fail to bring a good trade. We packed up early the following morning, but not before a few Indians had paid us a visit. They were elated at our coming, for they were acquainted with Williams and Per kins, with whom they had often traded, and were on what is called friendly terms. Perkins was the equal of Williams in knowledge of My Sixty Years on the Plains 23 Indian science and, like him, was brave, cool, and ready in extreme danger. We arrived at the village about eleven o'clock, preceded by our leaders, who wished to select the most advantageous camp, as it was our intention to remain several days. We unpacked and put up a wall tent, which we used for a store. Our stock was put in the chief's care; and we supplied the women with all the necessaries for a feast. This is always customary if you wish to stand well, and must be given offhand and with generous impulse. Indians are close observers, and if they see that you give with a niggardly hand, they will say, "These white men love their goods, and will give us poor trade. Let's trade nothing but our poorest furs." Such an unfavorable condi tion must be avoided at any cost, as any trader will agree who has had experience among Indians. Williams and Perkins had but a limited knowledge of sign-language, but sufficient to do the trading. All these signs I learned eas ily, much to their astonishment. They both claimed that they would never become experts, but that if I kept on in the way I had started I would soon be the most perfect of any white man on the plains. It came to me without any 24 My Sixty Years on the Plains effort and certainly surprised me. The other men had been observing my aptness and were astonished. They were indifferent sign-talkers, but good in ever5rthing else that goes to make a thorough mountaineer. It has always ap peared strange to me that so many intelligent men, who had been for so many years among Indians, trading and otherwise, were so de ficient in knowledge of sign-language. Some assert that facility in the language is due to linguistic talent; but be that as it may, as I said before, the art was acquired by me without any effort. All the principal chiefs assembled in White Antelope's lodge, where the customary smoke was indulged in, during which we were ques tioned as to what our outfit consisted of. Then came the feast, which included buffalo tongue, the choicest of meats, coffee, hardtack, and molasses. This last article is a favorite with all Indians. In the meantime. Noble, Docket, and myself spread on blankets the various goods which Williams had selected for this trade, — powder, half-ounce balls, flints, beads, paint, blue and scarlet cloths, blankets, calico, and knives. A certain rule must be complied with in trading with Indians, which is that you must My Sixty Years on the Plains 25 not pay one Indian — ^man or woman — one iota more for a robe or fur of the same quality than you pay another. If you do, you ruin your trade and create antagonistic feelings through out the village. The Indians stood in need of all the articles named, and by sundown our tent was full of furs- of the finest quality. We then adjourned for supper, which was prepared by the women. After supper I accompanied the chief's son. Swift Runner, through the village. He was about my own age and took a great liking to me, taking considerable pains in teaching me signs. He introduced me to all the leading men in the village, telling them that I was his friend. I took special notice of a tall young boy with a particularly large nose, a magnificent speci men of a coming warrior. He was known as Big Nose ; but I firmly believe he was the fa mous Roman Nose, who was killed by General Forsyth on the Republican River in 1868. Swift Runner told me that a large hunting party was going to start the next morning after buffalo ; and that if I would like to go he would furnish me with a good buffalo horse. I asked permission of Williams, and he consented, say ing, "All right, boy; you can take my horse; he is one of the best buffalo horses on the 26 My Sixty Years on the Plains plains." I thanked him, saying that Swift Runner had promised me one of his. The evening passed very pleasantly for me, as the young folks entertained me to the best of their ability. I was considered fairly good-looking, with smooth face, agile and quick in movements. I was the youngest child and my parents had allowed me every indulgence. They owned a farm just outside of St. Louis, and I always claimed that I was a country raised boy. Foxes, deer, and coons were in abundance, and it fol lowed that every boy would own a pony, pro viding, of course, that the parents could afford it. At all events, I possessed one of the best mustangs in Missouri — a little devil, which would kick at everything and everybody who approached him except myself. My brothers would say that we were a well-matched pair, both little devils. At home we indulged in all kinds of athletic exercises, such as dumb-bells, boxing, trapeze, and single-stick; and then we had constant practice with rifle and pistol, in all of which I became very proficient. I be lieve that all boys should be taught in the same way. It is productive of longevity, all things being physically equal. I am at this writing past eighty-one, straight as an arrow, supple My Sixty Years on the Plains 27 and quick. I have never had use for glasses. Almost every day some one asks me to what I attribute my suppleness and eyesight, and I answer that "common-sense philosophy con forms to the teachings of hygiene." CHAPTER II Buffalo Hunt with Cheyennes. A Stirring Picture. My First Buffalo. Perils of the Chase. We are Feasted on our Return. Character of the Cheyennes. Pemmican and Depuyer a Substitute for Bread. We Leave the Cheyennes. THE next morning, before daylight, fifty hunters and about twenty squaws with pack animals were assembled, ready to start on the buffalo hunt. We travelled about ten miles, when the scouts discovered a herd and reported their location to the hunting chief. He was thor oughly acquainted with the topography of the country and led us on a long detour, so as to get on the leeward side of the herd. As soon as we reached there, the Indians stripped to breech-clout and advanced, leading their run ning horses. The chief now divided the hunters in two divisions, in order to get what buffalo were wanted in the smallest possible area. It is necessary to approach as close as possible be- 28 My Sixty Years on the Plains 29 fore raising the herd, for when raised they travel fast and no laggard of a horse can over take them. Generally each division has a leader, who gives the order to go. We rode to within a quarter of a mile of the herd before the word was given. Here would have been a grand scene for an artist to put on canvas — ^this wild array of naked Indians, sending forth yell after yell and riding like demons in their eagerness to bring down the first buffalo. For this is quite a feat and is commented upon by the whole village. Swift Runner and his cousin had the fastest horses in our division and brought down the first buffalo, much to the chagrin of many a young brave, who coveted that honor that they might receive smiles from their lady loves. My pony was close on the heels of the leaders, and Swift Runner pointed out a fat cow for me. In a few jumps I was alongside and fired, greenhorn like, at the cow's kidneys. As luck would have it, however, I broke her back and she dropped. Swift Runner gave a yell of de light at my success. I should have put the shot just behind the shoulder. There was yelling and shooting in every di rection ; and many riderless ponies were mixed in with the buffalo, with Indians after them, 3° My Sixty Years on the Plains reckless if they in turn were dismounted as their friends had been, by the ponies stepping intq prairie-dog or badger holes. Many an Indian has come to grief by having an arm or leg broken in this way. Ponies are sure-footed, but in a run such as this one, where over a thousand buffalo are tearing at full speed over the prairie, a dust is created which makes it impossible for the ponies to see the holes, hence the mishaps, which are very common. All the meat required lay in an area of three quarters of a mile. I had brought down four and received great praise from the Indians. I could have done much better, but, boy-Hke, I wanted to see the Indians shoot their arrows, which many of them used. One arrow was sufficient to bring the buffalo to its knees. They shot behind the shoulder, sending the arrow deep enough to strike the lungs. One shot there is enough for any animal in the United States. Now came the butchering, which was com pleted in two hours, and each pony was packed with three hundred pounds of the choicest of meat. Several Indians who had been thrown, limped somewhat, but none were seriously hurt. We arrived at the village about sundown and fe^- V'l mi//''' u211.0I- 0. < a. > Iin uJILLJIh My Sixty Years on the Plains 39 with a heavy growth of underbrush. I thought then that Indians were not such terrible fighters as some writers made them appear; and my first impressions have never changed, although I have contended against some who apparently knew no fear, but they are exceptions. We reached the village in due season. Young Thunder leading the party, the warriors follow ing singing scalp songs and carrying the Pawnee scalps tied on the end of "coup" sticks. The whole village tumed out to greet us, and all were yelling like furies. They could tell by the song of the warriors that no loss nor damage had been sustained, which is not always the case. Pandemonium reigned all night, with singing and dancing and the recounting of the war riors' bravery in taking two scalps and recap turing the ponies stolen by those "dogs of Pawnees." When Williams heard of my going close to the timber, he said : "I shall have to keep you at home next time, if I expect to return you to your parents. You are a young fool to ap proach close to timber where hostile Indians are concealed." I told Williams that three of our ponies were in the bunch and that I did not want to 40 My Sixty Years on the Plains retum without them. I thought the Sioux were cowards, but I have learned by experience since that a white man, on the plains at least, will risk where an Indian dreads. The Pawnees had not acted with good judg ment in trying to drive off one hundred head of horses so near daylight. They should have realized that the Sioux would be on their trail in a short while, mounted on their best horses. Indians are credited with being extraordina rily cunning in stealing horses, the Pawnees especially so, which is the reason other tribes call them "Wolf Indians." The sign for wolf is the index finger and thumb spread apart, other three fingers ends to palm, the hand held up to the side of the head. This is the uniform sign both for woH and for Pawnee. I have made mention of coup-sticks. While all tribes do not call it by the name "coup," the ctistom and usages of all are identical. These sticks are generally made of willow, and are from seven to ten feet in length and one inch in diameter. The bark is peeled and they are painted with vermihon, after the fashion of barbers' poles. Warriors invariably carry these sticks in action, and when a foe falls the one who strikes him with a stick claims the "coup," or one brave action done. A brave's valor is My Sixty Years on the Plains 41 determined by the number of "coups" he has to his credit. Sometimes a half dozen Indians strike the same foe, and each one claims a coup and is entitled to and gets part of the scalp. CHAPTER IV Fur-Trade Rivalries. "Free Traders" and the Companies. Wealth of the Sioux. War-Parties and Singing. Indian Revenge. We Sell our Furs for Good Prices. Bill Williams a Diplomat. Visited by Arapahoes. We Trade, Feast, and Smoke. A Threatening Party of Crows. "Business Diplomacy." WE started the next day for the Laramie River, where we expected to visit an other Sioux village, whose chief was Black Moon; also to meet some traders from Green River, men representing the Northwest Terri tory Company, and some opposition traders. There existed great rivalry among them to se cure their furs and robes from "free trappers," as our outfit was classed. Corporate companies were not friendly to free traders and trappers, and made it very unpleasant for them when opportunity offered. In those days the cream of men in the mountains belonged to the free traders and trappers, and it followed that cor porations had no "walk away," as mountain phrase had it. 42 My Sixty Years on the Plains 43 . The Sioux were very wealthy from an Indian standpoint, owning vast numbers of horses and mules and furs and robes and they were gener ally considered "nabobs." They roamed the plains with their villages, so as to be in close proximity to buffalo, of which they required large numbers, as meat was their principal food, and sent out war-parties against their enemies, who were numerous and included Pawnees, Crows, Utes, and lowas. So it followed that they kept constantly on the go, and for recreation, when a war-party had returned from a successful raid, bringing back scalps and ponies, all women related to the party would decorate themselves in all their barbaric finery and promenade through the village singing and chanting the bravery of their lovers and husbands, and making all the other women in the village feel abashed. This is the secret spring of war-parties constantly going out. The singing, dancing, and feasting are continued several nights and days. Very different are the conditions when war-parties return defeated. A gloom is cast over the vil lage. Relatives of those who are slain or are missing cut off fingers and in other ways muti late themselves; and a council is held by the medicine men to devise some plan by which 44 My Sixty Years on the Plains they may get revenge on the enemy. Bear in mind — and this is true of all tribes, notwith standing contrary statements by some writers who have had no general knowledge of the character of the Indian, either on the plains or in the mountains — an Indian never for a moment considers himself the aggressor. Suffi cient for him is the fact that some member of the village has been lost. / We reached Black Moon's village on the /Laramie River the next day, camping near the chief's lodge. The story of our recovering the stock and the taking of two Pawnee scalps had preceded us, and the young warriors wanted to see the young paleface who had ridden close to the grove. They looked upon that as a great feat, though I failed to see it in any such light. As it was, it made me many friends among the young men. The older ones, however, said that I was a young fool and would lose my scalp some day. We traded for considerable fur at this camp, which somewhat astonished Williams, as there were three traders on the Platte River. The rea son was, as I have already stated, that the traders were not up to their business in such ways as paying uniform prices for furs of the same quality. A war-party of young men came into camp My Sixty Years on the Plains 45 that night from the Sweetwater River and in formed us that a trader with wagons would be along the next day. The next morning we unpacked all our furs, classifying and rebaling them. Williams took great pains to instruct me in all this, saying that he intended to make me the equal of any one in the business, as it might be useful in later years. I often think that he had a presenti ment that I would never return to civilization. In the afternoon an old trader named Vasques arrived with wagons and oxen, and was aston ished to see all the furs we had collected. He looked surly, but this did not worry Williams, who understood his disposition. Williams should have been engaged by the government as a diplomat, for he could outwit any and all of these arrogant corporate traders. At any rate, Vasques saw that his only chance to get furs and robes was to curb his temper and come to terms, which he did, paying us $750 in cash for the beaver and other small furs, and a quantity of Indian goods, of which he had a fine assortment, for the robes. Williams got the best of him on every turn. He either had to trade with us or haul his In dian goods back to the States, which he was not inclined to do. 46 My Sixty Years on the Plains When departing the next day, Vasques said that he would make this business of free trading most interesting for all concerned. I admired Williams's reply, which was, "Good, Mr. Vas ques; remember I will be on hand to take an active part in the matter when it occurs." We now had fourteen pack-horses, loaded with a fine assortment of Indian goods, and moved up the Platte River to the mouth of the Sweetwater. While making camp six young Arapahoes put in an appearance and told us that their village was a short distance up the Platte River. It consisted of one hundred lodges, with Yellow Bear as chief. This was old Yellow Bear, father of the one killed on Sand Creek by Colonel Chivington. Williams rode back with the Indians to their village. His object was to have the Indians bring their robes and furs to our camp, as we intended making a long detour before reaching Green River. Yellow Bear and his son returned with him to inspect our goods, and, being satis fied, returned to the village. We stood guard that night, as we were in a country dangerous from outside war-parties. The next morning the village arrived early. They were wild-looking Indians, and not to be My Sixty Years on the Plains 47 trusted. They were a thieving outfit, as the whites found out in after years. Trade opened at once, and by noon we had one hundred robes and a quantity of other furs. Then came a feast and a smoke with the chiefs, after which they all returned to their village. We hurried in packing up, for Williams wanted to reach the Independence Rock cross ing of Sweetwater River as soon as possible. He was in hope of meeting another wagon out fit that might be coming from Green River, and to which we might dispose of our furs. We reached the crossing the next day at noon, but found only Vasques's wagon trail. It was while at this camp that I had my first introduction to Crow Indians, when Williams halted a war-party, or, more properly speaking, a thieving party of twenty -three, within fifty yards of camp. We had all our packs placed in a square, the robes making a fine breastwork. The Crows were very insolent and came very near bringing on a fight. In the first place, they wanted a feast. Then our best horses, giving in exchange poor ones. They also de manded blankets and furs, all of which Williams gave them to understand they could not have. They next wanted to examine our outfit and trade, but Williams knew that they had nothing 48 My Sixty Years on the Plains to trade and he told them so, and also advised them to leave. At this they became more insulting. We had two large shotguns which we used on guard at night, as they were most effective weapons at close range, being loaded with a half-ounce ball and five buckshot. One tall Indian, diabolically painted, stepped towards where I was standing and I brought my gun to bear upon him. At this he said, "Mas-to-shera mo-mo-nar-ka," and retreated. Perkins told me that meant, "White man fool." Finally the Crows asked for some tobacco, which Williams gave them with the under standing that they were to leave at once, and they did, casting in sign to us, "Mean white men," all of which I understood. I felt very much like resenting, but was re strained by Williams, who said that I must not heed such things from Indians. After many years of experience I fully agree with him. We remained in this camp two days and then started for the upper Wind River country, hoping to meet the Shoshones, who frequently remained in that section until May, furs still being in their prime. It is amusing to hear men from the East claim that beaver and otter are only trapped in the winter. Such is not My Sixty Years on the Plains 49 the case, as beaver and otter trapped in April and May are classed Ai. I have sold to expert fur buyers furs trapped in June, and these same buyers credited themselves with being able to tell, by the appearance of the fur, in just what month in the year the furs were trapped. On our third day's travel we met a trader named Pomeroy, who had Indian goods on hand, expecting to trade with the Indians on the trip to the States. Williams told him that all the Indians he would be liable to meet were without furs, which was stretching it somewhat. We then unpacked our furs and robes and offered to trade for cash or goods. It required half a day to consummate the trade, we receiv ing $300 in cash and a quantity of Indian goods. Williams told me afterwards that Pomeroy would not make much on that trade. I think that Williams must have hypnotized Pomeroy, as he overlooked the important fact that at this season of the year Indians were still dressing robes and would continue to do so for six weeks to come, and Pomeroy would have had plenty of opportunities to trade with villages on his way down Platte River. But Williams made him believe that the villages were leaving for buffalo, which was not so, as they had an abun dance of meat and buffalo were close by. 50 My Sixty Years on the Plains Williams was the soul of honor, and when I questioned him about his statements to Pom eroy, he smiled and said, "Diplomacy." I have never forgotten that, and after years of observation I find that honorable merchants follow the same tactics. Seh-interest predom inates among all, from the highest to the lowest. They evade the literal truth, calling their con duct "business diplomacy." CHAPTER V In a Dangerous Country. We Find a Moccasin and Prepare for Trouble. Attacked in the Night by Blackfeet. The Enemy Repulsed. Scalps Taken. Pursuit. Williams a Reckless Indian Fighter. I Lift my First Scalp. We Wipe Out the Entire Party. Beaver Trapping an 7^. WE continued on towards Little Wind River and crossed a most rugged and romantic country, whose lofty sky-piercing peaks ascended to and above the clouds. On the northwest were the Wind River Mountains, which are the main Rockies; to the eastward the Big Horn Mountains, world renowned in their isolated grandeur ; — the home of all noble game, such as buffalo, elk, antelope, deer, and bear. It is a hunter's paradise. Here the dif ferent tribes of Indians met on their annual hunt, and the meet was often the scene of conflict. We saw no Indian sign until we reached Little Wind River, where Evans and Russell picked up a moccasin. This was dangerous country. 51 52 My Sixty Years on the Plains Hostile war-parties were numerous, and were liable to make their appearance at almost any hour of day or night. Williams selected a strong position for camp, as he considered this the most dangerous coun try on the plains, being constantly invaded by war-parties of Blackfeet, Bloods, Piegans, and Crows. The trappers and Shoshones were kept constantly on the alert, to avoid losing their stock and even their scalps. Williams was of the opinion that the tracks discovered were made by a party of Blackfeet, as they almost always went to war on foot. Beaver and otter seemed plentiful, and the men set traps. That night we slept with arms by our side ready for instant action; and kept close guard, as it was almost a certainty that the Indians had discovered us and would try for our stock. Noble and I stood flrst guard, and Evans and Russell second. About four o'clock in the morning two shots brought us all to our feet. Immediately after the shots we heard yell after yell from the In dians, and they began flring at the camp with guns and bows and arrows. Evans and Russell had killed two Indians with their first shots. We fired at the flashes of the Indian guns; these were Hudson Bay flint-locks and made My Sixty Years on the Plains 53 a very decided flash when discharged. The weapon is not over-effective, but will do damage at short range. Some of our shots must have taken effect, as the Indians fell back, though they continued sending shots to camp until close to daylight. Several of our men, myself included, wanted to charge, but Williams would not allow it, as he considered it dangerous charging an un known number of Indians at night, although he had concluded that there were not more than a dozen in number, if so many. Just before daylight the Indians attempted to recover their slain comrades. They are expert in crawling through grass, but our men were up to all their tactics and prevented them and added one more to keep company with the two already sent to their happy hunting-grounds. The Indians gave a yell of despair and departed, sending after us a few parting shots. Daylight was now appearing in the east and objects could be seen at a distance. Noble and Russell "lifted the hair" of the three dead Indians, and as they had had some experience in scalping it was easily accomplished. The method of scalping was to run the knife around the head under the hair, cutting through to the skull bone; then taking hold of the scalp-lock 54 My Sixty Years on the Plains and giving it a quick jerk, the scalp would come off and was afterwards dried on a hoop. The reason that mountaineers scalped In dians was in retaliation, and also because Indians dread going to their happy hunting- grounds without their scalps. For this reason they will risk a great deal to get their slain after a battle. We discovered a trail of blood leading down the river, from the place where they had fired the shots into camp, showing that some of our return shots had been effective. Five of our ponies had been wounded, one so severely that we killed him to put him out of misery. Williams, enraged at the injury that had been done, was determined to punish the Indians still further. Leaving two men in camp he ordered the rest to follow him. The experienced mountain man is as keen as an Indian on a trail, and no difficulty was found in following this one. About five miles down the river a small stream put in from the north side. This stream was about two miles in length, and at its head was a spring surrounded by a small grove of quaking aspens. The Indians had gone up this stream, and we were soon close upon them. My Sixty Years on the Plains 55 Going at a rapid rate for nearly a mile, we came to a rise, and when on top we were within plain view of the Indians, who were hurrying along, trying to get two of their wounded com rades to the grove. They were about half a mile in advance of us. To keep them from reaching the grove, Williams dashed to the right, where there was a level bench or prairie, so as to give our horses a chance to go at top speed. The Indians saw in a moment that they would be cut off from the grove, and they made for a patch of willows and stunted box-elders just below. There were eleven of them, and we had them cornered, as trappers say. From the brow of the hill on our side to the Indians in the willows it was about one hundred yards, and Docket tried a shot. The Indians returned fire, wounding him in the thigh. It was a flesh wound, but bled freely. As there were a quantity of boulders close by, Williams gave orders to roll them up to the brow of the hill for breastworks. Leaving Evans, Russell, and Docket behind this breastwork, with orders to keep shooting at the Indians, Williams told Noble and me to follow him to the grove without letting the Indians notice our departure. 56 My Sixty Years on the Plains In the grove we cached ourselves, although I did not understand WiUiams's plan. Its wis dom was soon apparent. The men on the brow of the hill kept up a steady fire, and the Indians realized that they would be annihilated if they remained in their present position. Six of them made a dash for the grove, and when they came within one hundred yards Wil liams gave orders to shoot. We made a lucky shot, and three of them fell face down. The other three gave a yell of despair and ran up the hill. We mounted and dashed after them. The Indians were panic-stricken when they saw us so suddenly mounted. I now saw what Williams was in a fight. Reckless to an extreme, he dashed at the Indians, who wheeled and shot but missed. A tall In dian was in advance and Williams made for him, and in a shorter time than it takes to write it, there were three more dead Indians. Williams had identified them as Blackfeet, and this was afterwards confirmed by the Shoshones when shown the scalps. Williams now said: "Boy, this is your first opportunity. Lift the scalp from that buck. It belongs to you." Of course I knew how to scalp, and soon ac- My Sixty Years on the Plains 57 complished the feat, much to his satisfaction, for he said, "You are broke in now. You will do." Flattering, I thought, coming from such an old Indian fighter as he was. We went after the first three and then returned to the men at the breastwork and found them waiting for us. Many men would have left those five Indians in the willows, satisfied with the revenge. Not so with Williams. Some of our men told me that he was con sidered the hardest man on the plains to down in a fight with the Indians. He was never known to quit when once started. It was a fight to a finish. It struck me forcibly in this instance, when he replied to my question of what he was going to do. He looked at me peculiar like and said : "There are five Indians down there who shot at and insulted us. They shall have what they would have given us had they been successful in their attack. Boy, never, if possible, let an Indian escape who has once attacked you." I was receiving a practical lesson. He now said: "I want one of you to go with me. The rest of you throw some shots at the Indians while we get to the gulch and approach them from below." 58 My Sixty Years on the Plains But these fearless trappers held Bill in too great estimation, and they all said, "Once, old chieftain, your orders will be disobeyed. We cannot afford to lose you." Russell said, "Evans and I will undertake that job. You cover us." Down they bounded to the gulch below. Both were quick on foot, with eyes like eagles. They had been in many desperate fights, and understood the danger of approaching Indians in ambush. A wounded Indian is a dangerous animal when approached by an enemy. We kept up a steady fire until our men were seen to be close to the willows. Evans and Russell now shot and bounded forward, yelling like Indians. We also rushed down. One wounded Indian had arrow in bow, ready to shoot, but he was not quick enough. In a very short time all was over. We found in the plunder two fine rifles, am munition, knives, and other articles belonging to trappers. Williams said that some small party of trappers had been surprised by these Blackfeet, and in a few days we found that such was the case. After collecting all the plunder we returned to camp. When Perkins saw what we brought My Sixty Years on the Plains 59 back he said, "Well done, chieftain! Blackfeet had better give you the go-by." Williams smiled and answered, "No better than you would have done." Either one of these men would have died for the other. As we were "wolfish" — a mountain phrase for hunger — ^we did ample justice to the feast which had been prepared. The men then went to look after the traps, and as I wanted to know all about trapping I accompanied them. They made an excellent catch of beaver and reset the traps. I ob served closely the manner of setting and bait ing. This is done in different ways, according to the condition of the banks of the creek, the dams, the depth of water, and whether there is a muddy or gravelly bottom. Trapping is a science only to be acquired through long practice. I am considered one of the best, yet I am constantly experimenting. "Medicine," which is of various kinds, may be good on one river or creek, but not effective on others. To skin, flesh, and stretch beaver and otter is quite an art, in which many trappers never become proficient. CHAPTER VI Little Wind River. A Wonderful Hot Spring. Shoshone Scouts. Chief Washakie. We Trade our Blackfoot Plunder. Shoshone Horse for Blackfoot Scalp. A Night of Council, Scalp Dance, and War Song. The Fate of Two Trappers. "Good for Evil" not the Trappers' Creed. Shakespeare in a Trapper's Pack. Motmtain Men Great Readers. A White Beaver. WE remained in this camp three days, and Williams was constantly on the lookout for Shoshones or trappers, climbing up on high knolls and using a spyglass. On the morning of the fourth day we moved down Little Wind River to where it forms a junction with Big Wind River, and saw no Indian signs. There is here one of the grandest and most romantic warm springs to be found on this continent. It is situated on the south side of the Little Wind River, about nine miles from the mountains. Its mineral properties are un excelled, and according to scientific men it is the equal of any spring in what is now known 60 My Sixty Years on the Plains 6i as the National Park. The spring is on the Sho shone reservation. I have been told that New York capitaHsts are willing to pay the govern ment one million dollars for it. The country from Owl Creek range to the base of the Great Wind River Mountains is called warm land by the Indians. We stayed in this camp two days, keeping a sharp lookout, especially for war-parties. Here I set my first traps for beaver and caught two and one foot out of three traps set, which made me feel very proud. In those days beaver brought from $8 to $i6 a hide. Dark otter skins brought a good horse from the Indians, or fio to $12 from traders. We next moved up the river about twenty miles, scouting the country towards Owl Creek Mountains, but saw no fresh Indian sign. Here was a beautiful and strong camp, which could repel an attack from any number of Indians. Williams said we would have to re main here until we met the Shoshones, or ascertained if they had left for Green River by some other route. They avoided the plains as much as possible on account of the numerous war-parties to be found there. On the fourth day, at evening, a scouting party of Shoshones was discovered by Williams. 62 My Sixty Years on the Plains I was with him and we were some distance from camp. Williams said, "Shoshones." I asked him how he could tell, and he answered that it was by the way they acted, which he said de noted that they were the advance-guard or scouts of a village. They always have scouts out when moving villages, so as to be prepared for enemies. We galloped towards them, firing a shot. The Indians saw us and heard the shot and understood that we were friends. There were nine in the party; they were acquainted with Williams, and seemed really glad to meet him. They asked him who I was, and were told that I was a friend from the States. They accom panied us back to camp, where we had a feast and a smoke. Their curiosity was greatly excited on seeing our captured trinkets, and Williams recounted the whole circumstances of our trouble with the Blackfeet. They were the most excited Indians I have ever seen from that day to this. When shown the scalps, many of them yet stretched on hoops to dry, they jumped up and gave a ringing war-whoop. These same Blackfeet had killed two trappers on Gray Bull Creek, and had gotten away with five horses. My Sixty Years on the Plains 63 Williams told the Shoshones that the Black feet who had attacked us had no horses. They answered that we had not seen all of them; and that they had stolen seven horses from their village. According to the Shoshones' statement the war-party had split, and there must have been about thirty of them in aU. The other Blackfeet were around, they said, and it made them uneasy. They wanted us to pack up at once and join their village. Washakie, one of the most remarkable Indians, was their chief, and he was a great friend of the whites. Williams told the Shoshones to retum to their village, taking two of the Blackfeet scalps, and to notify Washakie that we were camped here and wanted to trade. They departed saying that their village would be with us the next day. We scouted the country for quite a distance up the river, but saw nothing. It does not fol low because one sees no Indians that none are about. It stood mountain men in stead to be constantly on the alert, Indians or no Indians. Many a poor outfit has come to grief by not taking the mountaineers' advice. We were not disturbed during the night, and in the morning put everything in order to re ceive Washakie and his village. 64 My Sixty Years on the Plains Williams told the men that they could have all the plunder captured from the Blackfeet, and that the Shoshones would pay good prices for it. He told me that I could get a good horse for my two scalps. Docket gave me a fancy scalp, saying, "Now, young chief, you can buy a squaw." About three o'clock Washakie, with a body guard of twenty men, rode into camp. It was a pleasure to see that noted chief and Williams meet. Long-parted brothers could not have been more affectionate. We soon had a feast prepared, and after the feast a smoke. In the meantime the village made its appear ance, and lodges were put up above and below our camp. We were, in fact, corralled. The plunder was all spread on blankets, and as Indians are more acquisitive than whites, a lively trade sprung up, particularly with the women. They would give a pair of fancy moc casins for almost anything that had belonged to the Blackfeet. The chief's son brought a good horse and presented it to me. Any one acquainted with Indians knows that a present from them means that you own something that they want. I soon found out that it was the scalp he wanted WASHAKI E—CH I EF OF THE SNAKES My Sixty Years on the Plains 65 and I gave it to him. He was a noble young man, with the characteristics of his father. The Shoshones were delighted at my pro ficiency in sign-language, for by this time I was able to converse on any and all subjects. It must have been very amusing to hear the many questions the women asked me. "What 'tribe had I been raised with?" "Where was my woman ? " " Had I left her ? " They would not believe that this was my first experience. Trade continued until dark. The Indians ex changed moccasins, beaver hides, mink, martin, and buffalo robes. Williams bought all the furs and robes from our men, paying them cash. They had no in terest in our stock of goods, but were paid to accompany us. Any furs which they caught in traps belonged to them. They were all old acquaintances of Williams and Perkins. The Indians stood guard that night, and in fact every night while we were in this section. It stood them well in hand to do so. Kalispell Indians generally paid this country a visit every spring to take a few scalps and ponies. The Kalispells were enemies to all Indians on the plains. When they and Blackfeet war- parties met there was sure to be a clash, and this happened frequently. 66 My Sixty Years on the Plains Williams and Perkins held council most all night, while scalp dances and war songs were being indulged in by all the young -folks. It makes no difference with Indians whether they take the scalps or not, if only these had be longed to their enemies. I have heard people make statements to the contrary, but they knew not what they were speaking of. Hence many false ideas originate in the minds of many well informed Americans. The next day Washakie gave orders to his people to bring their furs and robes and give a good trade to their friends. This they did to our satisfaction. Two mounted parties were sent out scouting for enemies, and a few to bring in meat. One of the parties met three trappers who belonged to the outfit surprised by the Blackfeet. An account of the troubles of these men will well illustrate the risk taken by trappers in collect ing furs in those early days and even thirty years later. The two trappers killed were off some dis tance from camp looking after their traps, when Indians surprised and killed them. The other three heard the shots and hurried to camp to secure what horses they could; but the Indians were able to run off five head and also to cap- My Sixty Years on the Plains 67 ture the two rifles which we had retaken. Wil liams returned the rifles and knives to the three men. They were nervy, these three. One was a Scotchman, one a Frenchman from St. Louis, and the third came from Kentucky. They said that when they heard the shots, they were aware that their companions had been attacked, so they rushed for their horses, securing six, the Indians getting three besides the two belonging to their dead comrades. "Kentuck" said they had no opportunity to render assistance to their fellows as the Indians charged upon them. They were camped in a thick grove of cottonwoods, and had prepared a breastwork for just such an attack. The In dians kept at long range, knowing that if they approached trappers' guns some of them would come to grief. All Indians dreaded trappers when once brought to bay. Any tribe to-day will confirm this statement. A few shots were exchanged and then the Indians withdrew. "Kentuck" was anxious to find out what had been done with the two trappers, so he climbed a high knoll and saw about thirty Indians mak ing for the mountains, half of them mounted. He then went down the gulch and found his two friends dead, scalped, and otherwise 68 My Sixty Years on the Plains mutilated in a horrible manner. His eyes flashed when recounting the circumstances. The reader can well understand the just cause for trappers retaliating. Good for evil is hardly a trapper's creed when dealing with Indians. After burying the men they packed up and started to join the Shoshones, knowing where they were camped, and intending to remain with them until they reached Green River, > They now joined our party. In their possession were six packs of beaver of eighty pounds each, worth $9 a pound, making a total of $4320. There was good money in trapping, but the rewards hardly justified the risk. I found the Scotchman and the Kentuckian well educated men. The latter presented me with a copy of Shakespeare and an ancient and modern history which he had in his pack. We had an abundance of reading matter with us; old mountain men were all great readers. It was always amusing to me to hear people from the East speak of old mountaineers as semi-barbarians, when as a general rule they were the peers of the Easterners in general knowledge. These three trappers had caught a beautiful white beaver, a fur which is very rare and valu- My Sixty Years on the Plains 69 able. This they presented to Williams and would take nothing in return, saying: "You keep this as a memento from us of the high esteem in which we hold you." In the afternoon the other scouting party re turned and reported that near Owl Creek Moun tains they had had a fight with a war-party of Pend Oreilles, and that two of their number were slightly wounded. These two appeared very proud of their wounds. All Indians have that weakness, showing their wounds to all and looking for smiles from their lady loves for their bravery. CHAPTER VII The Scouts Report Indian War-Parties. We Resolve to Clear the Country of them. Scouting for Hostiles. A Want of Strategy. Some Actual Warfare. A WUd Scene. We Have a Close Encounter. We Rush the Knoll. A Night of Mingled Mourning and Rejoicing. THE Shoshones expected to remain in this camp for several days, to give their women an opportunity to finish dressing robes and drying meat. The grass was good, timber was plentiful, and a few buffalo were on the prairie. To supply the camp with fresh meat and to scout for war- parties would keep the young men busy, so Washakie said. In the meantime the Indians were having a joyous time dancing over Blackfeet scalps. I passed the time in visiting all the lodges, and studying the habits and customs. I was be coming interested and had a desire to leam everything pertaining to Shoshones, so that I could ascertain the difference between them and other tribes that I might come in contact with. 70 My Sixty Years on the Plains 71 The scouts kept reporting fresh Indian tracks, but no Indians. This brought about a council between the Shoshones and our party for the purpose of devising some plan to rid this section of war-parties. We had more than a passing interest in accomplishing this. Not that we feared the war -parties, but we wanted to collect furs without being constantly annoyed. Williams was the leading spirit in the coun cil. After much deliberation it was decided to form three parties of twenty-five each, who should operate in conjunction, some of our party to be in each of the three. By daylight the following morning all were ready, and we silently left the village, taking the routes selected. Our company of Shoshones, including Wil liams, went to Bull Lake, as it was a favorite place for war-parties. Indian tradition had it that the father of all buffaloes roamed around this lake. From the high knolls surrounding the water one could sweep the country for miles with the aid of a spy-glass, and could readily discover any Indian village or trapping outfit. When we reached. Bull Lake Creek, where it forms a junction with Big Wind River, we saw fresh pony tracks coming from the east side of 72 My Sixty Years on the Plains Big Wind River and going up the creek. It was impossible to tell the number, as they trav elled in single file. Every foot of this section was -known to the Shoshones, which was of great advantage. We went up the creek for about three quarters of a mile, when the country became rough. Three of the young men now dismounted, stripped, and went on ahead to scout, we hold ing their horses. When we received a signal from the scouts we would advance to the point explored. It was just about this time that we heard shots from the east side of Wind River, and we felt certain that one of our parties had come in contact with hostiles. Our scouts approached a high-timbered knoll and discovered a band of Indians running to wards a high ridge, looking in the direction from which we had heard the shots. Our scouts returned on a run and mounted. Moonhavey, a noted chief and warrior, took the lead, keeping under cover so as not to be observed by the Indians on the ridge. We continued on for half a mile and came to a crooked draw which headed up on the ridge. The chief wheeled and went up this draw for a quarter of a mile and halted. My Sixty Years on the Plains 73 Just ahead was a sharp bend, which when passed would bring us in full view of the In dians on the ridge. The Shoshones stripped to breech-clouts in short order and mounted their runners. Moon havey gave the signal for a charge and dashed around the curve. Within two hundred yards were fourteen head of ponies under the care of two young men. They gave a warning cry to their comrades on the ridge, who fired several shots without effect as the range was too great. With a furious yell the Shoshones charged on the two men, who tried their best to mount, but they were soon on their way to their happy hunting-grounds. The Indians on the ridge, seeing the two men fall, disappeared. Our party divided, one going to the right and the other to the left, until about three hundred yards apart, when both parties started up the ridge. Upon reaching the top, we saw the Indians about one quarter of a mile distant, making for Wind River, where cottonwood groves were vis ible. Once there they would be able to stand us off for some time and more than likely kill some of us. The country was comparatively level to the 74 My Sixty Years on the Plains river, with the exception of two steep draws, which we crossed at a run. If the war-party had used good judgment they would have taken possession of one of these draws, but their minds must have been set on the timber and river. The war-party next scattered, which was another blunder, as they must have real ized that they could not reach the timber and that we outnumbered them two to one. They should have remained together and taken pos session of some buffalo wallow, for there were plenty of these around. I fail to see the won derful strategy with which Indians are credited. I had a quick eye and I observed every move of both parties. When the Indians scattered they were about two hundred and fifty yards ahead, and if the scene that followed could have been reproduced on canvas it would have been worth a fortune. It was a scene that occurs only in actual warfare. The Shoshones gave yell after yell, charging madly and most recklessly. The chief warned them to be careful, but they paid no attention to him, for in a case like this it is a great feat to take the first scalp, and the successful warrior is greatly praised in their village. His lady love guys the other girls, claiming her lover as the bravest of the brave, first among their My Sixty Years on the Plains 75 enemies. I believe the same rule exists among paleface girls, when a lover has performed an heroic act. The war-party dropped blankets and war- sacks, which contained tobacco, pipes, moc casins, and other things, thinking that the Shoshones would stop and pick them up. But the Shoshones charged on, redoubling their yells. It was a wild scene for a few moments, shots and arrows flying in every direction. Williams, Moonhavey and myself had the fleet est horses and reached the Indians first. Wil liams killed the first Indian, while Moonhavey and I both fired at the same time and both missed, which chagrined me greatly. I dashed after a tall Indian, who had his arrow strung, passing him at a run. We both fired at the same time, his arrow lodging in the fleshy part of my horse's shoulder, which would have ruined him if the arrow had had force behind it, but the Indian was scared. My shot knocked him down, and I heard Williams yell out, "Well done, boy!" There were only three left and they were having a combat with a few young Shoshones who were doing poor execu tion. Some older men stepped in and put a quietus to any further flghting by sending the 76 My Sixty Years on the Plains three to join their companions in the happy hunting-grounds. After "lifting hair" and collecting plunder, we returned to where we had left the captured ponies. Seven of them belonged to the Sho shones, having been stolen by the Blackfeet. Five of them belonged to Kentucky's party, and there were two strange ones, which Moon havey forced Williams and myself to accept. The shots had ceased from the east, so the chief sent the wounded men to the village, and the rest of us started over towards where we supposed our second party was. We discovered them clustered together near a spring. One Shoshone was dying, having been shot through the lungs, and three others were wounded. They had come in contact with nine Blackfeet, who had taken possession of a rocky knoll and made a breastwork on it. The two opposing forces exchanged shots for some time without any apparent result, as fearless Evans remarked. Council was held, and it was agreed to charge the knoll from two sides. Six Indians were left behind to cover the charge by continuous firing at the breastwork. With a yell and a rush the knoll was charged, and a quietus was put on those nine Blackfeet in short order. My Sixty Years on the Plains ^i Evans had his cheek split open with an arrow, and "Kentuck" received a slight wound in the left arm. WilHams always carried a supply of court-plaster, lint, and bandages for such emer gencies, and soon fixed up the men. After dressing the Indians' wounds, we took two long poles and fastened one on each side of a gentle pony, lacing a pair of blankets to the poles. On this we put the dying Indian and set out for the village. The other wounded Indians rode ponies and, fool-like, were proud of their wounds. We reached the village at three o'clock and were met by half the tribe, who wanted to ascer tain the cause of our slow approach. And now there was a mixture of joy and sorrow blended together; the relatives of the dead man mourn ing and making the night hideous with dismal howls, others singing, yelling, and sending forth war-whoops, parading the village, and recount ing in detail all the incidents pertaining to the fight and the extermination of those "dogs of Blackfeet." CHAPTER VIII A Brush with Piegans. We Part from the Shoshones. I Mystify Washakie. Indian Horsemanship. The Shoshones. Beaver Trapping. My First Bear. A Lesson in Bear Shoot ing. Fascination of the Mountain Life. THE third party had not as yet returned. In going through the captured war-sacks we found two white men's scalps, which "Ken tuck" recognized as belonging to his partners. He buried them, saying, "I am not acquainted with their relations, or I would send or take the scalps to them." Williams assisted me in cutting the arrow- point out of my horse's shoulder, and he soon recovered, which highly pleased me. He and I were greatly attached to each other, and I used to feed him sugar every day. Docket said that I gave him more sugar than the whole party used. Williams would answer, "Let the boy alone, he will get over that in time." But I never did while I owned Runner. Sugar was then worth one dollar a pound. 78 My Sixty Years on the Plains 79 "Scotty" and Russell were with the third party, and Washakie, with all the head men of the village, held a council with Williams and Perkins to talk over the situation. They came to the conclusion that there were no more Blackfeet in the country, and that the third party had come in contact with Arapa hoes, Crows, or Kalispells. Washakie finally decided to dispatch haff a dozen young men to scout the country as far as Owl Creek Mountains, a distance of twenty miles, and to return at once unless they discov ered something which justified a further advance. The party was led by the chief's oldest son, a brave and energetic young warrior, bearing a remarkable resemblance to his noted father. They left, leading their running horses, so that in case of emergency they could either fight or run as circumstances warranted. In the afternoon of the next day the third party was seen slowly approaching, and it was evident that it included some wounded. The Indian women who had husbands or lovers in the party became most anxious. Some of the Indians with spy -glasses ran to high ground to count their number, and soon made out thirty- three, which was the full complement, including the six young scouts. 8o My Sixty Years on the Plains On the arrival of the party in the village it was found to contain six wounded, including "Scotty" and Russell. The former was shot through under the left collar-bone, and Russell had received a glancing shot in the scalp. "A close call," as Perkins remarked. They had met a war-party of twenty Piegans on the summit of Owl Creek Mountains. Shots were exchanged with little damage, and the Shoshones finally charged the hill. It was dur ing this charge that " Scotty " and Russell re ceived their wounds. The Piegans retreated, leaving two of their number. The Shoshones followed them about twenty miles, keeping up a running fight until the Piegans got into a strong position; then they withdrew. On the way back they lifted the hair of three killed in the running fight and two killed on the hill. They also collected considerable plunder, in cluding five good ponies, giving "Scotty" and Russell their share. The leading chiefs now held a council, and decided that there were no more war-parties in that section. All the Indians were jubilant and they went about saying that now all their enemies would fear them. They calculated without their host, as the saying is. When what had taken place became known among the My Sixty Years on the Plains 8i Blackfeet and Piegans, they would be sure to hold a great council and concoct some plan whereby they could revenge themselves upon those "dogs of Shoshones" for the loss of their brave warriors. As I previously stated, Indians never consider themselves the aggressors. It is enough that they have lost warriors. That same day we wound up our trade with the village and began to pack up. Williams in duced Washakie to take all our furs to Fort Bridger, as well as the six packs belonging to "Kentuck's" party. The Shoshones intended to go by the South Pass route, while we pur posed to cross the mountains and follow down Green River, collecting furs and bear hides eti route. Bear hides were still prime in the moun tains and were valuable. On the second day we parted company with our friends, who urged us to stay. By this time I was almost equal to the best sign-talker in the village. Bear in mind that not all Indians are good sign-talkers. Dunces among them are as common as among whites. Washakie would look at me quizzically and ask me with what tribe I had been raised ? He could not or would not believe that this was my first experience among Indians. He would say to Williams that I could ride a horse as 82 My Sixty Years on the Plains well as any of his young men and was their equal in shooting; while in fact I was their superior with both rifle and pistol, thanks to my early training. I mystified and bewildered them by turning hand-springs. My health was splendid and I was surcharged with energy. As we now had eleven in our party, we appre hended no more danger from war-parties, but traders and trappers never relaxed their vigi lance in those days. He who did so often came to grief. If asked to compare the horsemanship of the Cheyennes and the Shoshones, I should say that they were equally skilful. Both can accom plish the difficult feat of retaining their seat on a horse while life remains; and they are like a cat, tenacious of life. When wounded they retain their seat by winding a hair rope around the horse's body; sometimes they put their legs under this rope, tight to the thighs; and sometimes bring the knees up so as to form an acute angle, the rope passing tight over the thighs and under the calf of the legs. They can lie on the side of a horse in action, and if wounded will retain the seat until out of danger of enemies. I have heard some men claim that an Indian My Sixty Years on the Plains 83 could lie on the side of a horse and shoot under its neck with bow and arrow, without the use of pad, saddle, or rope ! To my knowledge such is not the case. I have many times been in action with mounted Indians and I have never seen it accomplished. An Indian dreads to use a rope when ap proaching trappers in a fortified position, or when brought to bay. Trappers will kill the horse first, and they are then sure to get the Indian. As hunters and shots the Shoshones are su perior to the Cheyennes, for the reason that they are more of a mountain Indian and hunt more small game. The domestic habits of the Shoshones are commendable for Indians. They are clean, in clined to be proud, and think a great deal of their women and children. They like to see them well dressed as Indian dress goes. Many of them have more than one wife, but one of the wives is superior to the others, who do all the hard work, such as dressing robes, collect ing fuel, and packing the horses. Take them as a whole, the Shoshones are a contented and hospitable tribe and, no doubt owing to Washakie's great influence, friends of the whites. We remained two days at Bull Lake and 84 My Sixty Years on the Plains caught many beaver. I was now becoming very successful in trapping, and caught as many as any of the outfit. Williams taught me to skin, fiesh, and stretch, in all of which I soon became proficient. Furs indifferently handled always bring a low price on the market. We next crossed the mountains to the west fork of Green River, and found furs in abun dance. We also found black, brown, and silver- tip bear, getting several fine hides. I went with Perkins on my first bear hunt. We succeeded in coming upon two black bears and got within one hundred yards without the bears scenting us. Perkins told me which one to aim at, and we both fired at the same time. His bear made one forward jump and then rolled over. Mine fell forward, growling and trying to get up, but unable to do so. I put another shot in the bear's head to finish her. Of course, I felt very proud of my first bear, though in later years I learned that it was easier to kill a bear than an antelope, provided you know where to shoot it. You are sure to get any animal shot in the shoulder-blade, be cause they cannot travel. It has often been said that bears are the most ferocious animals in protecting their young. Such a statement is false, as I have many times My Sixty Years on the Plains 85 seen a she-bear run away from her young, which were picked up and carried away into captivity. The mountain lion, so much dreaded by many, is cowardly and is only dangerous when cornered. The great danger in bear- hunting is when a wounded one gets into a thicket. In such instances a good bear dog is needed. We shot two more bears that day, making a load for a pack-horse. Perkins said to me after supper that night: "Now, young man, I am going to give you a practical illustration of how to shoot not only bear, but all other four-legged animals." He pulled out one of the bears and took the hide off. Next he spread out the legs and put the bear on its belly. He then cut the ribs from the backbone, cut down the flank, and pulled down the sides, so as to give a view of the bear's internal organs. He then showed me where to -shoot from any position that it was possible for the bear to be in, and told me particularly to note how low the vital parts lay. I profited by that lesson and never forgot or deviated from it. I would advise all persons to do likewise with their first bear. I would also advise them never to go into a thicket after a wounded bear, and not to hunt bears at all unless they have confidence both in their rifles 86 My Sixty Years on the Plains and their own nerves. Many men are used up by wounded bears through their own ignorance. Our wounded men had by this time recov ered sufficiently to take an active part in col lecting furs. We caught a quantity of martin and a few fisher. The latter is classed as American sable, with a demand twenty times greater than the supply. We remained in this camp on the west fork for six days, and then moved down-stream about twenty -five miles and camped in a most beautiful place: an ideal spot for the poet to become inspired with the beauty and grandeur of nature and to be awed by the lofty peaks which ascended above the clouds. At this camp we made a great catch of bear, having piled up a lot of beaver carcasses to attract them. I became expert in bringing down bear with the first shot. The men were all fine shots. They could not be otherwise after such long experience. They often re ceived great praise from people for their expert- ness with firearms, but no more than they merited, for an American mountaineer had no equal on the globe. It was necessary that they should be expert, for they carried their lives in their hands. At any moment they were liable to come in contact with roving war-parties, My Sixty Years on the Plains 87 who were never known to fail to attack a trap ping outfit if they dared. To be taken pris oner was to experience a death none desired. A slow fire is merciful beside other cruelties practised by Indians. All mountain men were acquainted with these facts, and therefore it was impossible for an Indian to capture a scout or a trapper — and scouts were invariably: trappers. They knew what would follow. I have often been asked why we exposed our selves to such danger? My answer has always been that there was a charm in the life of a free mountaineer from which one cannot free himself, after he once has fallen under its spell. CHAPTER IX The Blackfoot Fort in Utah. A Good Day for Bears. Fort Bridger. Mountain Men's Law. We Trade our Furs. Infatuated with the Life. Exploration of the Yellowstone in 1839. Afterwards I Visit that Country. Trappers' Tales. My Skill in Sign-Language. We Go with Washakie's Band. WE left this camp with regret and moved down the river about twenty miles. Here we saw pony tracks, but could not deter mine whether they were made by Indians or trappers. Selecting a favorable location for camp, we built corrals and turned loose most of the stock under guard, picketing half a dozen of our best horses in case of emergency. Docket and I then mounted our horses and followed the pony tracks, receiving a caution from Williams to keep a sharp lookout. Docket was an experienced scout, well up in Indian strategy, and we apprehended little danger of being surprised by lurking savages. We fol lowed the trail about six miles, and struck a creek which we followed northward about seven My Sixty Years on the Plains 89 miles. Here we came in sight of a camp, which Docket pronounced to belong to trappers. Ar rived there, we found seven free trappers, three of whom were acquainted with Docket. They were somewhat astonished at seeing us. Two of their number were badly wounded, having been attacked about ten days previous, when they lost half their horses and some of their traps. The Indians had discovered their traps and raised (stolen) them. This often occurs. The outfit were very glad to meet us, as they were out of tobacco and ammunition. They said that they would move over to our camp the following day. When asked if they knew what Indians had attacked them they said no, but they supposed that they were Blackfeet. This tribe was the last to be out in the spring, its war-parties going in every direction, even as far as Salt Lake Valley and beyond, as all old mountain men can attest. There is a Blackfoot fort on a bench overlooking the great hot springs, north of where Salt Lake City now stands. The fort is still preserved, I have been told, as a me mento of the old days. At all events, I myself, as well as many others, bathed in the spring and saw the fort long before any Mormons had reached Salt Lake Valley. go My Sixty Years on the Plains Leaving the valley Docket and I went across country, keeping a good lookout for bears, of which many signs were visible. About three miles from the trappers' camp we discovered a she -bear with three cubs passing over a ridge. Hurrying to the ridge, we saw the bears about two hundred and fifty yards away, turning over rocks in a hollow. We dismounted and crept to within one hundred yards, when Docket said, "You kill the old one." Taking careful aim I placed the bullet within an inch of the spot aimed for. She bounded forward and rolled over, with blood rushing from mouth and nos trils. Docket shot a cub, the other two run ning around thoroughly bewildered. We both shot again, each one getting his cub. We took the hide off the old one and packed the young ones to camp. At this season of the year a cub is the daintiest of food, and one which few mortals have an opportunity of par taking of at the present day. The other men had shot four bears, besides making a good catch in the traps. We were kept busy dressing and stretching until dark. We stood guard constantly — one man at a time, and left nothing to chance. Just because no Indian sign had been discovered, it did not follow that no Indians were about or in the My Sixty Years on the Plains 91 vicinity. If they were, they would have heard the shooting and would be sure to hunt up the camp before morning. The next day the trappers whom Docket and I had met arrived and camped close to us. They traded several beaver hides for articles they stood in need of. They were a sunburnt, hardy and brave-looking lot of men, with erect forms and fearless demeanor. All but the two wounded ones were acquainted with our outfit. These two belonged in Santa F6. We remained in this camp eight days, and as the trapping season was over started for Fort Bridger, travelling by easy stages. Here we found many trappers and traders who were having a high time, gambling and drinking. Many trappers became hilarious, but not offensive. A strict law prevailed among mountain men embodied in a few words: "Take nothing which does not belong to you without the owner's consent." A man who committed an offence would be fined about all he pos sessed, besides being ostracized. Far better to be dead than in that condition. He would never be allowed in a trappers' camp. His act would in a short time be known throughout all the camps. It was at this time that I became acquainted 92 My Sixty Years on the Plains with many of the old mountain men, such as Bridger, Anderson, and the Baker brothers. A great many trappers, such as Carson and Bent, resorted to Las Vegas and Santa Fe. There was a great rivalry among fur buyers at those places. Prairie schooners were constantly haul ing goods from Independence, Mo., to the two towns. Fort Bridger is on Black's Fork, a tributary of Green River, a beautiful location. Henry's Fork and other streams tributary to the same river contain the purest of water and an abun dance of trout. Timber was plenty and the grass excellent for stock. It was an ideal place for a camp for either trapper or Indian. Washakie was camped about three miles from Bridger. He had not stored our furs at the Fort, but had them in his village. Pomeroy and Campbell, agents for the North west Fur Company, were at Bridger, anxious to buy furs. They were acquainted with Williams, but were not on very friendly terms. In fact, they were not friendly with any free trader or trapper, but were too shrewd to show the dis like too plainly. They were arrogant, having a desire to control the actions of free trappers to their own personal advantage, something which they never accomplished. They struck Wil- My Sixty Years on the Plains 93 liams at once for a trade, and we packed all our furs from the Indian village to our camp. I observed closely the dickerings and tricks of those fur buyers on one side and of Williams on the other. It took three days before the trade was consummated to Williams's satisfaction. Our men got Williams to handle their furs, as none of them were able to deal with these leeches of fur buyers. We had a few Indian goods left, so Williams traded for more to com plete the assortment, as he expected later to meet the Utes and Navajos. Besides the In dian goods we received one thousand dollars in cash and three checks on St. Louis bankers. I mailed my check to father and got scolded for so doing when I returned for a thirty days' visit a few years afterward. I also wrote him that I should not return in the spring. I had become infatuated with mountain life and was enjoying splendid health. I would not have fore gone the same for all the wealth in the universe. Like Vasques, these traders threatened to make it very unpleasant for Williams some day. But this did not in the least disturb him. Perkins told them that they had better look out for Williams, as he had more influence with Indians than any of the traders. "Kentuck" sold his furs and went back to 94 My Sixty Years on the Plains the States, promising to rejoin our party in the spring. "Scotty" remained with us. Alto gether there were about sixty trappers at Brid ger besides a few Hudson Bay men. The order of the day was drinking, gambling, horse-racing, and shooting-matches. I believe gambHng is contagious, for I could not resist trying my luck at target -shooting at five dollars a shot. I won two hundred and thirty dollars, much to the disgust of many old-timers, who thought they had an easy thing of it with a "boy." Our men all backed me heavily. During the evenings I used to listen to old trappers relating stories, and they interested me greatly. From an historical point of view one in particular is worth recording. In the year 1839 a party of forty men started on an expedition up the Snake River. In the party were Ducharme, Louis Anderson, Jim and John Baker, Joe Power, L'Humphrie, and others. They passed Jackson's Lake, catching many beaver, and crossed the Continental Divide, following down the Upper Yellowstone — Elk — River to the Yellowstone Lake. They described accurately the lake, the hot springs at the upper end of the lake; Steamboat Springs on the south side; the lower end of the lake. Vinegar Creek, and Pelican Creek, where they My Sixty Years on the Plains 95 caught large quantities of beaver and otter. They also told all about the sulphur mountain, the Yellowstone Falls, and the mud geysers, and explained the relations of all these more lucidly than any map can show them. They also described a fight that they had with a large party of Piegan Indians at the lower end of the lake on the north side, and on a prairie of about haff a mile in length. The trappers built a corral at the upper end of the prairie and fought desperately for two days, losing five men besides having many wounded. The trappers finally compelled the Piegans to leave, with the loss of many of their bravest warriors. After the wounded were able to travel, they took an Indian trail and struck a warm-spring creek. This they followed to the Madison River, which at that time was not known to the trappers. I listened with rapt attention when they described the wonderful springs at the Lower Basin, especially the one situated on the bank of the river called Fire Hole. It was this spring which gave the name Fire Hole Basin. The description of the geysers on the upper Madison River astonished all the trappers pres ent, and Williams advised me to take notes, as he wanted to visit that section. 96 My Sixty Years on the Plains Many years after I guided a party through that country and it lay as a picture before me. I used to describe in advance what we should see from day to day, and members of the party said: "How comes it, Hamilton? You said that you had never been in this section before, yet you go from place to place describing every thing just as it is." In a very few words I enlightened them, and they thought it strange that the outside world had not earlier known about that wonderful country. I gave them to understand that the outside world would not believe stories told by trappers of the grand and romantic scenery to be found in the Rocky Mountains. Had this wonder land been described in St. Louis in the early forties, the reply would invariably have been, "Old mountaineer's story." There is plenty of proof of this assertion. Trappers as a rule were an independent set when relating truths which were not believed. It was the fault of our ad vanced civilization that this wonderland was not brought to the notice of the general public years before it was. Give me the man who has been raised among the grand things of nature! He cultivates tnith, independence, and self-reliance. He has " - ,,"*; in3Z0 0LJJJ < uinz < QZ I