--%fc'. --''A "IgivetAe/e Bovki: - Y^LH«¥]MII¥EI^SinrYa Deposited by the Linonian and Brothers Library 1913 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. VOLUME II. SBnftant^ne $rc« BALLANTYNE, HANSON AND CO, EDINBURGH AND LONDON TROPICAL VEGETATION, RIO SAN ESTEBAN. (Sec page ii O THE LAND OF BOLIVAR WAR, PEACE, AND ADVENTURE REPUBLIC OF VENEZUELA. JAMES MUDIE SPENCE, F.R.G.S. MEMBER OF THE ALPINE CLUB. JKEtth fKaps ano Illustrations. IN TWO VOLUMES.— VOl.. II. LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET. 1878. [A 11 rights reserved. ] EhJJ %ll 2 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. THE ASCENT OF THE SILLA OF I CARACAS. (April, 1872.) Previous ascents of the Silla — Union of Excursionists at Los Dos Caininos — A typical sunset — The mountain cottage — "Fior de Cachimbo" — The doctor first favourite — Tropical frigidity — The landscape develops itself — Start from Cachimbo — Goering's " humbug " — The distance to the Peak — The sum mit gained — The Naiguata from the Silla — Preparing the bonfire — Sky rockets — A cold night — Short commons — Transformation' scene — The descent from the Silla — Excite ment in the valley of Caracas — " The Volcano of the Avila " — The return to the Capital . . . Pages 1-13 CHAPTER II. THE ASCENT OF THE NAIGUATA. PART I. — THE START. (April, 1872.) The Venezuelan coast chain of mountains — The Silla from Caracas — The Naiguata as it appeared from the Silla — Traditional superstition respecting the inaccessibility of the Naiguata — Failure of former ventures — Strong incentives to attempt the ascent — Objects of the expedition — Members of the party — Lisboa an acquisition — The departure from the capital — Humboldt ruins — The guides — " John the Evangelist" shows the white feather — Giieregiiere — The dark mountain — The guides try to discourage us — Precipice of the "Tiger's leap " — Story of a mother's love — The bruised band — Suggestions as to the route — Ambidexterity of the guides — Quartered for the night — An early start — Up the bridle path — Fatigue of the mules — The bald summit — Cerro Duarte . . Panes 14-27 b CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. THE ASCENT OF THE NAIGUATA. PART II. — THE RISE TO THE RIDGE. Pio Berroteran appointed commander-in-chief — Adieu to Cerro Duarte — La Soledad — A change of pack-animals — On asses in general — The abodes of Senora Soledad and Madame Berroteran contrasted — Destruction of forests — Bram bles and wild strawberries by the wayside — Outposts of civilization — Tall ferns — La Fuente de la Vida — Difficulties of the ascent — A medical examination — The attack on El Calvario — Cutting through the woods — Demoralization of the guides — "La cuesta de los pasos perdidos " — Breakfast under the shade — " The Trench " — A stiff climb — " El cerro de los treinte y dos diablos " — Dis covery of tiger tracts — Singular effect of the sun's rays on the Silla — " Punta de Goering " — Choice of a camp site on the ridge — Water supply — Advice to mountaineers — Resignation of Lisboa — Three guides sent to the " Well of Life" — Hallacas — Preparations for the bivouac — The camp and its surroundings — Ruggedness of the conforma tion — Vegetation — A marvellous sunset — After dark — A hard pillow Pages 28-43 CHAPTER IV. THE ASCENT OF THE NAIGUATA. PART III. — THE RIDGE. A low temperature — Equipment for the attack on the Peak — Advent of the water-carriers — They receive a salute — More advice — Misplaced confidence — The doctor anticipates a rich harvest of casualties — Saint Berroteran — Obstacles on the ridge enlarge at every step — Mouldering monuments — A sea scene — The summit recedes — Ups and downs on the ridge — We have chosen the right path — A natural bridge " The leap for life " — Isolation of the Naiguata increasing with time — More difficulties — The goal reached — Deceived ! — A Cachicama — The vegetation of the Peak — " El Balcon " — The Sphinx — Hubel discovers a peat deposit — Veri fication of the general law respecting the direction of earth quakes in Venezuela — Fantastic forms of isolated rocks " The garden of the Naiguata " — The final onslaught on the Peak Pages 44-57 CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. THE ASCENT OF THE NAIGUATA. PART IV.— THE SUMMIT. " Hurrah for the Naiguata ! " — The Peak Conquered — A glorious panorama — The Needle of the Naiguata — Minor elevations — — New Alpine plant — Heat on the summit — A record aloft — The descent commenced — Short of water — Sufferings entailed — Bolet discovers a liquid — The way lost in a fog — St. Berroteran to the rescue — Hieroglyph on the ridge — " Aqui mismo " — Arrival at the camp — " No water ! " — " Se gasto en las caraotas " — Desperation — Human tigers — A rapid descent — Fears as to Lisboa exhausting the stream — He proves a worthy son of a valiant father — Arrival at Cerro Duarte — Joy of Mrs. Berroteran — Punishment of Juan Evangelista — The return to Caracas — Reflections on the Expedition Pages 58-70 CHAPTER VI. after the ascent of the naiguata. (Apeil-May, 1872.) What was said of the ascent in the capital — Several friends of science— Government takes cognisance of the event — Letter of the Minister of Public Works— Hubel on the geology of the mountain — Goeringon the fauna — Pamphlet in Spanish on the expedition — Biography of Nicanor Bolet Peraza— Letter of the Minister of Public Works— A subsequent at tempt on the Naiguata defeated — Ramon Bolet, the artist — His productions criticised by Mr. Ruskin — Dr. A. Ernst on the flora of the Naiguata— Letter from the British Minister— Guardia's poem on the ascent — " Memorias de la Sociedad Eeonomica de Amigos del Pais "— " La Opinion Nacional " Pages 71-89 CHAPTER VII. RESIDENCE IN THE CAPITAL. EL ENCANTADO— CIVIL WAR— TREASON. (May-June, 1872.) Excursion to Petare— El Encantado— The river Guaire disap pears—The Mora— The game of Colear— Theatre of Caracas —An American circus— Matias Salazar— His early history— CONTENTS. Reported depravity — Inordinate ambition — His high position — Suspected of treachery — He is sent to Europe — Goes to Curazao and plans a revolution — He lands on the coast of Venezuela — Raises an army — Fights at Tinaquilla — Is de feated by Guzman Blanco — He escapes — Is afterwards taken prisoner, tried by court-martial, and shot — Triumphal entry of the conqueror into Caracas — Peace speech at the Govern ment House — A visit to the President—He defends the exe cution of Salazar — The natural resources of Venezuela compared with those of England— Introduction to General Alcantara — Discovery of an original map of Guayana — Government educational movement — Model school, Guz man Blanco— Satisfactory interview with the President Pages 90-103 CHAPTER VIII. EXCURSION TO PUERTO-CABELLO. (June, 1872.) Dinner on board H.M.S. " Sirius" — Divine service — How the little English ship would fight the big Spanish frigate " Gerona " — Restricted smoking — The captain's invitation for a cruise to Puerto-Cabello — Vested interest in the "Sirius" — A dashing naval exploit of the las.t century — Arrival at Puerto- Cabello — Spanish men-of-war on the look-out for the steamer " Virginius " -J-Town of Puerto-Cabello — Former ravages of yellow-fever — Population — Origin of the port — Public buildings — Situation — Defences — The British Vice- Consulate — A visit to Goering's studio and museum — River San Esteban — Tropical vegetation — Departure of the " Sirius" for Porto Rica — The return by the "Bavaria" — Dr. Josd M. Rqjas — Curazao and its inhabitants — Where the Venezuelan revolutions are begun — Arrival at La Guayra — On the road with the President .... Pages 1 04-11 i CHAPTER IX. GOVERNMENT MINING CONCESSIONS. (1871-1872.) Commencement of negotiations with the Government — Proposi tion for the lease of the islands — Other offers from Liverpool — Interviews with the Minister of Public Works — Slow progress — Government demands a royalty of one-tenth of the produce — All negotiations stayed till Scientific Commission reports on the islands — Petitions for concessions in Barcelona — These granted by the President — An opponent appears in CONTENTS. ix person on the field — He meets with no success, and leaves the Republic — Another proposition made to the Govern ment, based on information gained in the Island of El Gran Roque — Delays owing to the absence of the Presi dent — His return and verbal consent given to accept the last offer — More delays in the Office of Public Works — Aid from an unexpected quarter — A favourable conclusion to the negotiations — The concession of the islands secured Pages 1 19-126 CHAPTER X. the first>enezuelan fine arts exhibition. (July 1872.) How the scheme originated — Novelty of the enterprise — Enthu siasm of the promoters — Loan of pictures, &c. — Catalogue printed — Invitations — Theatre of the Caffi del Avila trans formed into a picture gallery — The room crowded for four days— The inaugural banquet — The Exhibition a complete success Pages 127-130 CHAPTER XI. PROJECTS FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE RESOURCES OF THE REPUBLIC. Traction engines— Land and submarine telegraph lines — Coal mines of Curemichate — New port for Maracaybo — Proposed railway lines in the lake district of Maracaybo — Navigation of the lake by steamers — The Copper mines of Aroa — Rail way from Tucacas- — Venezuelan immigration scheme — The Caracas and La Guayra railroad . . . . Pages 131 -141 CHAPTER XII. departure. (August 1872.) The lottery of the Charitable Society of Caracas— Last interview with General Guzman Blanco— Letters from the President and Minister of Foreign Relations— Last visit to the Foreign Office— Banquet to the President and his Ministers— Prepara tions for departure-" Adieu » .... Pages 142-150 CONTENTS. APPENDIX. PAGE A. Ancient History of Venezuela 1 5 J B. List of Plants observed in Los Roques. By Dr. A. Ernst . 175 C. On some Venezuelan Birds collected by James M. Spence. By P. L. Sclater, M.A., Ph.D., F.R.S., and Osbert Salvin, M.A., F.Z.S 177 D. Sertulum Naiguatense : Notes on a small Collection of Alpine Plants from the Summit of Naiguata, in the mountains of Caracas. By A. Ernst, Ph.D., &c 180 E. Description of Minerals and Ores from Venezuela. By John Plant, F.G.S 185 F. Exhibition of Curiosities from Venezuela — Manchester Liter ary and Philosophical Society 188 G. Orchidese Venezuelans : or, An Alphabetical List of all the Genera and Species of Orchids collected hitherto in, and de scribed from, the territory of the United States of Venezuela, with the necessary literary references. By Dr. A. Ernst, Professor of Natural History in the University of Caracas . 192 H. Letter from H. B. M. Minister at Caracas, on the Ascent of the Naiguata 221 J. The Spanish Poetry of South America. By William E. A. Axon, M.R.S.L. . 223 K. Ascent of the Silla de Caracas. By Juan M. Cajigal . . 232 L. First Venezuelan Fine Arts Exhibition 244 M. Decree Constituting the Islands oftheRepublic into a Territory 253 N. Government Concessions for the working of the Coal-mines of the Naricual, State of Nueva Barcelona, Venezuela . . 256 0. Concession of Venezuelan Islands for the extraction of Mineral Phosphates . . 258 P. List of Public Works in progress in Venezuela, December 1873 263 Q. Select List of Books, Pamphlets, Maps, and Manuscripts relating to Venezuela 271 R. On Neolithic Stone Implements from Venezuela. By John Plant, F.G.S 294 S. Exhibition of Venezuelan Curiosities — Manchester Scientific Students' Association 295 T. The Church of Rome in Venezuela 296 Index . 301 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL. II. i. Tropical Vegetation, Rio San Esteban . . . Frontispiece. 2. The Naiguata and the Silla, from Los Dos Caminos . Page 3 3. The Attack on El Calvario To face page 33 4. The Breakfast Party, on El Calvario 35 5. The Tiger's den yj 6. Isolated Rock on the Ridge 47 7. Isolated Rocks on the Ridge 48 8. Isolated Rock on the Ridge 49 9. The Grand Precipice ....... -53 10. Isolated Rock on the Naiguata (The Arm-chair) . . . 55 1 1. Isolated Rocks on the Naiguata (Crowned columns) . . 56 12. Isolated Rock on the Naiguata (The Crescent) . . . 57 13. The Way lost on the Ridge 63 14. Discovery of the Hieroglyph . . . . - . . 64 15. The Hieroglyph 65 16. Portrait of Nicanor Bolet Peraza 77 17. Portrait of Adolf Ernst 81 18. Chusquea Spencei (new plant) 82 19. Siphocampylus Microstoma 83 20. Gnaphalum Incanum 84 21. Potentilla Ehrenbergiana 85 22. El Encantado, near Petare 91 23. Portrait of Martin Jose Sanavria 120 24. My Last Look at Venezuela 148 MAPS, &c. 1. Outlines of the Silla of Caracas and the Peak of Naiguata from the Valley of Caracas (south side) . . To face page 1 2. Ideal Perspective of the Principal Mountains and Towns of the Cordillera of the Coast of Venezuela . To face page 16 3. Map showing the Route of the Bolivar Railway, from the Coast to the Aroa Copper Mines . . . . To face page 137 NOTE. [Since tljiS toorf toent to press ©encrat granciaco SinareS Sllcantara IjaS Been (constitutionality) electeb 5preSibent of t^e Slepuolic cf SBenejueta ; to Succeeb ®eneral Slntonio ®Ujman Stance, toljoSe term of office fjab expiveb.] ou TUNES of the SILLA of C/JRA CA S and the PEAK of NAIGUATA from the VALLEY OF CARACAS (S. SIDE East eh n fcAh ^Jv' 86SS ^"\ ^/y- \ /~~ '->^~PlrtNTEDEL SALTO Silla of Caracas Gampvhthc s/ooe -CerrodelosTrhnta tih huica _ .-- //, .-¦** 86-60 \YDOS DIABLOS THE ' ^~S Thoket. ¦ paoe\ Amphitheatre ¦'\£r^>^ rP^/r-' CLEPHANTS. ,/wV £> ~?iw-'> MOMTAINSIDSOfTHE MEAD 68041- -\ , - . , Los-r STEPS ' 72as «»-°-... -'"' T//E.FOC//VTAIN OF DFC i ,..- ' a Huts of Charcoal, ; ^ ^WT1" OS/wens .. ( ' ¦¦ -£$l SOLEDAD Cachimbo saoo \ x^ j'"3Ms5 y/w.v'. C6RR0 DUARTE fc CuSNEGl/ERe PE.TARE Jjrifte fry S..Faterso7vIo7iASlxm, J?//!)?' 7>y S^anpsOTijI/ovr, fflcij-strm/ft C'JJonxton, ERRATA. VOL. II. Page i, lines 6 and 8, for " Cagigal," read " Cajigal." 8, footnote, for "Cagigal," read "Cajigal." 163, lines 13 and 16, for " Paredes,'' read " Parades." 164, line 18, for "arquebus," read " arquebuse.'' 171, line 11, for " dividivi," read " dividive." „ 239, line 33, for " Carabelleda,'' read " Caraballeda." 241, line 35, for " Gay laussacia," read " Gaylaussacia. 278, line 41, for " Licencido," read " Licenciado.'' THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. CHAPTER I. THE ASCENT OP THE SILLA OF CARACAS. The first recorded ascent of the Silla of Caracas is that of Humboldt at the beginning of the present century.* Since then it has been climbed by various enterprising Venezuelans, and by some foreign visi tors. The most notable ascents have been those of Cagigal, f Lisboa, J and Dr. Ernst, the last named having followed up the botanical researches of Hum boldt and Cagigal, and made a very complete study of the mountain in its scientific aspect. To reach the somewhat dangerous summit of the Silla has always been considered an event in the capital, and when it was known that another ascent was contemplated, it gave rise to a good deal of innocent gossip. * See Personal Narratives of Travel to the Equinoctial Regions of America, by Alexander von Humboldt. t See Appendix K. X The title-page of the work in which the ascent is described will be found in Appendix Q., No. 149. VOL. II. A 2 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. i. Early in the afternoon of April 6th, 1872, our party started in a coach from Caracas by the Camino Real del Oriente (Main-Eastern Eoad) for Los Dos Caminos, at which place we duly arrived and waited for the remainder of those who had promised to join us. I took the opportunity which the delay afforded of sketching the Silla and the Naiguata from behind the posada, as it seemed the best point from which to obtain a comparative view of these two mountain giants of the coast range. Our company, consisting of Doctor Simon Vaa- monde ; General Luciano Urdaneta ; Senores Anton Goering and Manuel Montserrat ; the author ; two servants (Jesus Anoco and Juan Hernandez) ; and a dog named "Curazao," being now complete, we started for the Silla. Our body-guard, consisting of the two individuals, Jesus and John, and faithful " Curazao," proceeded on foot, whilst the remainder went on mules. We were detained in starting by Goering, who would not leave without a bottle of whisky, which he said was absolutely necessary for the preservation of any insects he might find on the excursion. Reaching the base of an abrupt and steep spur of the mountain jutting out into the valley of Caracas, we commenced its ascent by proceeding along a wind ing zigzag bridle-path, or natural staircase, to Cach imbo — the last habitation on the way to the summit — where we intended to take up our quarters for the night. The sun was hovering on the verge of the western horizon, and his rays threw across the sky a glow of Chap, i.] SUNSET ON THE WA Y TO CA CHIMBO. 3 redness, which hung over Caracas like a blood-red banner, a fitting emblem of that anarchy which for generations has desolated this beautiful land, and " forward flung to Aides full many a gallant spirit of heroes. ' ' Goering, full of artistic enthusiasm, detained I [.LA. NAIGUATA". ll|w mam ¦MM >^«S NAIGUATA AND THE SILLA FROM DOS CAMINOS. the party, and a few quick dashes of his brush bare record on paper that he had caught the proper inspiration, and fixed this glorious vision, "curtained with clouded red." Our appreciation of the painter and his work was somewhat damped, however, when he concluded with Ruskinian force and faithfulness 4 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. i. an eloquent peroration on art in general and the late sunset in particular, with a specimen of prosaic mate rialism unworthy of genius, by estimating the value of his Sunset on the way to Cachimbo in pounds, shillings, and pence. At a height of 4265 feet above the level of the sea the colour of the soil changed from red to dark brown, and in localities where the face of the hill had been burned, grass had begun to spring up, receiving no sustenance from rain or moisture in the ground, but only from the heavy clouds seen so frequently sweeping over the sides of the mountain. It was past 7 p.m. when we approached Cachimbo ; the shades of night had crept on so fast and so impercep tibly that in the latter part of our journey it was so dark that we had enough to do to grope our way in safety along the perilous path. A light shining through the darkness showed that our goal was near, and our shout brought a quick response. The house which we eventually reached was situated on the top of a spur or shoulder of the mountain, at an altitude of 5300 feet, the occupants doing a thriving retail provision business with the charcoal- burners who inhabited these heights. Dr. Vaamonde's presence insured us a flattering reception, and the best of everything that Cachimbo could furnish was at our disposal. There were some terrible stories told that night of many who had taken refuge in the surrounding hills during the revolution, and some of whom, it was said, perished of hunger. Not far from our residence were Chap, i.] DR. VAAMONDE'S PRETTY PATIENT. 5 found the remains of a man and a tiger who had both fallen in mortal combat. We were waited upon by the daughter of the house, a handsome girl whom Goering christened the " Fior de Cachimbo." Dr. Vaamonde with a merry twinkle in his eye introduced her as one of his patients. The doctor was a universal favourite, and practised not for the sake of " filthy lucre," but for the amelioration of the woes of suffering humanity. If all his patients were like the pretty Fior, then in this, as in other cases, virtue is its own exceeding great reward. We were all somewhat jealous of the evident partiality shown by our young hostess for Vaamonde, but in truth our irrepressible exhilaration and boisterous joviality contrasted unfavourably with his gentler deportment. Our animal spirits were exuberant ; even after we had climbed into the little loft which was to serve for a dormitory, the fun went on un broken, and it was late before the conversation was silenced by sleep. The following morning we were roused by half- past five, and found the air so raw that we were glad to group ourselves around the kitchen fire. The sensation of cold was a novelty, and not altogether a disagreeable one ; its effect was bracing, and cer tainly our nerves needed strengthening for the work before us. The physical inactivity naturally result ing from a prolonged residence in the tropics is not favourable to the training that would have rendered our undertaking an easier one than it proved to be. Having breakfasted, and been encouraged by the 6 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. i. good wishes of our host and hostesses, we sallied forth, and as the barometer had risen during the night, we had the prospect of a very bright day. The morning cleared up apace. North of us was a great amphitheatre formed by the surrounding hills, with a narrow outlet into the plains below through the Quebrada de Cachimbo. The large valley of Caracas, with its branches of Petare, Antimano, and El Valle, lay before us dotted with luxuriant patches of grass and cane, whilst more distinctly visible were the coffee plantations and the long irre gular wave-like lines of trees marking the meandering course of the river Guaire. Fleecy clouds drifted in all directions, here hiding one valley and there opening up another to our view in quick transition. As we toiled along at the first rise we tried to keep up our spirits and to imagine that we were near the top, although the anxiously-watched barometer contra dicted Hope's flattering tale. Having accomplished the work on the first slope, we were disappointed to find another still more severe in its aspect, with one side steeply falling off to the valley, and on the north forming a precipice down into the Quebrada de Cach imbo. Several times we were obliged to lie down from fatigue, which a short rest, however, soon dissipated. Goering was in good form, and took advantage of these breaks in the journey to search for insects. Road there was none, not even a trail, and our way now lay along the edge of the precipice ; to the right we espied a dense clump of vegetation indicating the Chap, i.] GOERING'S ENTOMOLOGICAL PRIZE. 7 proximity of water. Thither we sent our peones to fill the flasks which had become by this time almost empty. On gaining a footing on another shoulder of the Silla, our disappointment was height ened to see a higher one afar off, which we were pro- vokingly informed was not the last ; and to reach it a descent of a very rough character had to be made. We named the height just surmounted the Elephant's Head, which at a distance it greatly resembled. We stood for a time looking in the direction we had still to climb ; some of our party beginning to express their fears that further progress was impossible, and many were the propositions made to evade the steep face by flank movements. At this point Goering became ill, and was only brought round by the timely discovery of a new and interesting species of bug. To this entomological prize he gave a sesquipedalian name, but as it was a little, nasty, ugly-looking, noisy insect, we, according to the regulations of the old jest-book, called it a humbug. In a shady nook at the foot of the Elephant's Head we rested for a brief space, exclaiming with the poet : " Welcome, ye shades ; ye bowery thickets, hail ! " We were getting tired, and our courage was on the ebb, but after partaking of refreshments, including a few drops of a very common stimulant, prescribed medicinally, things assumed a more cheerful aspect, and courageously we sprang from the ground with nerves braced for another attempt, and were quickly again in the order of march. All the newly-found prowess was needed, for the 8 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. i. ascent of the next spur was exceedingly difficult, and we had to make headway by a zigzag course, using hands and feet ; in fact, a good deal of it was done on all fours. This work accomplished, the reward quickly followed, for the undoubted peak was seen a short distance ahead ; and spurring on our wearied bodies, the final climb, though a stiff one, was made with a rush, and an exultant hurrah soon after told that the goal had been reached. We gained the summit of the Silla at 1 1 A.M., having ascended 3233 feet in less than four hours. The temperature was 750, and by a rough calculation we made the height to be 8833 feet.* We were glad to take refuge under the friendly shade of some stunted trees growing near the top, for the enjoyment of a quiet siesta. On awaking, the pro visions were distributed with a reckless prodigality, which we repented of before the morrow's dawn ; but the water was measured out very accurately to each, our stock consisting of less than a gallon. Some hours were quickly passed in botanizing, drawing, sleeping, and entomologizing. Goering gave us no peace in the prosecution of his studies in the latter-named depart ment, for he was " death " on all insects, and the most notorious of lion-hunters was never more enthusiastic in the capture of the king of beasts than was our naturalist in that of his insignificant little game. Then for half an hour we were all hard at work gathering wood for a grand bonfire. * The height of the Silla, according to the mean of several careful observations made by Codazzi aud Cagigal, is 8625 feet. , Chap, i.] THE VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT. 9 Varied and beautiful was the view far below our feet. The most striking object was the Caribbean Sea, its surface at times seemingly smooth as glass, at others partially hidden from our view by dense masses of fog and cloud drifting slowly over its bosom, and assuming in their erratic and vapoury course rare and fantastic appearances of icy peaks on vast mountains of snow, whose bases were in the ocean. The little village of Juan Dias, although far away on the beach, seemed as if only a stone's throw from us, and strong was the temptation to roll a large rock down the pre cipitous sides of the mountain, and watch it leap from point to point until it should reach the village 8000 feet beneath. We refrained from this, however, thinking the possible destruction of life and property might prove too great a sacrifice for a gratification so childish. To the east rose the high peak of the Naiguata, ap pearing to defy the most gigantic efforts of climbing, though in spite of this I determined to be the first to plant my foot upon its crest if resolute endurance could avail to win success. With the binocle the journey was done in half an hour ! There were diffi culties visible, but these I felt could be surmounted, although some of the places had an ugly look. This contemplation was broken into by my comrades, who all declared the Naiguatd, to be impregnable ; but " The distant mountains that uprear Their frowning foreheads to the skies, Are crossed by pathways, that appear As we to higher levels rise." 10 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. i. At 3.45 p.m. the thermometer registered 72°, at 5 p.m. 6 30, and at sunset 6o°. Now came the evening meal, and with it the knowledge that we were reduced to very short com mons ; on our smoking wood fire coffee was made, not only for that repast, but to serve through the night, which promised to be bitterly cold. Our cooking utensils consisted of a kettle and an empty sardine tin ; in the latter we made a substantial soup, — Liebig and water, — and the only fault it had was that of not going far enough. So keen were the appetites of all that the entire stock of provisions was exhausted at this sitting ; from lack of a sufficient appreciation of the necessity of plenty of animal food on such an excursion, those who attended to the commissariat department had sadly failed in their duty. At 8 p.m. we lit our bonfire, and for an hour were engaged in sending up rockets, which we rightly sur mised would astonish the natives and the concourse on the Plaza at Caracas listening to the military music. We chose places for sleep on the dank and dirty ground, and had to experience some difficulty in find ing comfortable locations. Two joined at a hole to shelter them from the wind, which blew all night with relentless fury. The surface was damp and our blankets soon got wet, the dew and a smart shower of rain spoiling our night's sleep completely. I changed my quarters several times, and at last got in between the two attendants. The bonfire having been ex tinguished by the rain, we cleared some of the smouldering embers away, and found the warm steam- Chap, i.] A WORLD OF MIST. 11 ing earth comparatively comfortable for the time, at least, though somewhat suggestive of old cramps and aches. Next morning (April 8th) we all shivered up from our couches, and our cheerfulness was not increased by the lively reflection that our entire provisions for breakfast consisted of two pints of thick coffee. This we dealt out in a semi-liquid state, so that those en dowed with vivid imaginations might fancy themselves consuming both food and drink. We looked around : the landscape on all sides had disappeared entirely. The sun was rising behind the bleak peak of the Naiguatd, and to judge by the scene we might have been transplanted to the frigid zone. All the valley of Caracas seemed filled with snow, and far away to the Tuy rose continuous chains of white- capped mountains ; the Caribbean Sea, an infinite lake of ice, with here and there vast icebergs, spires, and peaks of fantastic shape jutting from it ; to the south-east, glaciers, precipices, and frozen rivers and seas linked together in wild beauty : the cold air rush ing up from the valley as from regions of thick-ribbed ice aided the glamour which had been thrown over the scene. It required less imagination to think that what our eyes beheld was ice and snow, than to accept the fact that they were simply pictures limned by the great cloud-painter.* But soon — " The veil was lifted, and below Glowed the rich valley and the river's flow. " * " On some isolated mountain at daybreak, when the night mists first rise from off the plain, watch their white and lakelike fields, as they 12 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. i. We commenced the descent at 6 a.m. with the temperature at 60°, the landscape changing before us at every step. We had to proceed cautiously, some times on hands and feet, whilst occasionally, in spite of cries of "Wait a bit!" two or three in anything but elegant attitudes descended at a quicker rate than was agreeable, setting safety at defiance, and running the risk of rolling down hundreds of feet into the misty morning vapours. When we were above the top of the amphitheatre of Cachimbo, the temptation was too much for one of the party, who pushed some large fragments of rock over the hillside, and we all watched them bound and rebound until they leapt over the precipice and finally disappeared into the clouds below. Above the clouds we could see the curling smoke rising from the houses of the charcoal-burners on the slopes of the Naiguatd. On the whole, the descent was marked by no par ticular occurrence, and we arrived at Cachimbo at 9.30 A.M., where we found a temperature of 8o°. Here we had a long rest, and then mounting our mules returned to Caracas, which we reached in the evening.float in level bays and winding gulfs about the islanded summits of the lower hills, untouched yet by more than dawn, colder and more quiet than a windless sea under the moon of midnight ; watch when the first sunbeam is sent upon the silver channels, how the foam of their undu lating surface parts, and passes away, and down under their depths the glittering city and green pasture lie like Atlantis, between the white paths of winding rivers ; the flakes of light falling every moment faster and broader among the starry spires, as the wreathed surges break and vanish above them, and the confused crests and ridges of the dark hills shorten their grey shadows upon the plain." — Buskin. Chap, i.] " THE VOLCANO OF THE AVILA." 13 All along the road we heard that the bonfire, and the rockets sent up from the Silla, had caused great excitement in the State of Bolivar ; many thought them to have been signals for the rising of the Blues, and in some places the Government troops were actually ordered out. Others were reminded by it of an old prophecy that the Avila (the ancient name of the Silla) was to become a volcano and destroy Caracas. Our pyrotechnic display had been witnessed by an assembly of about sixty thousand ; — Todo el mundo y su mujer (All the world and his wife) hav ing turned out to see the burning fagots flaming on the crest of the Avila and throwing out " bolts of fire." All this was opportune, as the capital was just then rather short of excitement, and the Plaza on the night in question was crowded with gazers at the un expected sight. A few days after our ascent another was made by my enterprising young friend Lisboa, but the fire and the rockets this time created no excitement, as they lacked the charm of novelty. CHAPTER II. THE ASCENT OF THE NAIGUATA."* PART I. THE START. " If any yet be so foolhardy, T expose themselves to vain jeopardy, If they come wounded off and lame, No honour's got by such a maim." — Butler. The chain of mountains striking off at an almost right angle from the great range of the Andes near Barquisimeto, and extending along the shore in an easterly direction until it finally disappears in Cabo Codera, presents two great heights near the valley wherein stands the capital of Venezuela of which this range, indeed, forms a grand natural defence. These heights are the Silla of Caracas, and the Peak of Naiguata\ The latter being the most distant, and nearly in the same line, is not seen from the city. Viewed from the south side, the Silla, on the contrary, is the most striking and majestic part of the landscape which forms the background of the town. Its great * Messrs. Leopoldo Terrero, Anton Goering, and Bamon Bolet have had the kindness to place at my disposal for this work the information they gathered in the expedition. The thermometer was always that of Fahrenheit, and the observations were taken in the shade ; those relating to height were made with an aneroid barometer (No. 620, J. Stewart, 66 Strand, London), and are given in English feet. Chap, ii.] NAIGUATA AND ITS INACCESSIBILITY. 15 height, its strange form, and the capricious changes of light and shade playing upon its brow — when not lost in thick masses of cloud — produce in the beholder who for the first time admires its imposing grandeur a strong desire to ascend the summit, in order to enjoy the sight of the extensive panorama which it commands. From the crest of the Silla the high peak of the Naiguata" rose boldly to view, and the walled-in appear ance of its flanks provoked not only curiosity but an enthusiastic desire to overcome its traditional difficulty of ascent. The Naiguata claims a proud pre-eminence over all the heights of this region, it towers aloft with a majesty defying rivalry. My companions in the excursion to the Silla assured me that the Naiguata was inaccessible. It was a firm belief in Caracas that its high peak would never be trodden by human foot. There was even an old tradi tion which proclaimed its impregnability. The ferocity of the animals hidden in the forests surrounding it was a theme upon which the good people of the capital were positively eloquent, and, moreover, I was assured that all those who had attempted to scale the Naiguata had been compelled to give up their adventurous design from its absolutely rugged impassability. * No mountain of the like altitude rises so pre cipitously from the sea ; but these difficulties only * "An attempt was made in 1823 to conquer the Naiguata,, by a La Guayra merchant, and a large party, twenty-five in all, well provided. They commenced the ascent, but after eight or nine days' effort they had only reached the foot of the peak, where they shot many tigers, but were forced by want of Water to give up the enterprise and return un successful. One of the party was thought to have been lost, but he made his way back to La Guayra in about fifteen days." 16 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. ii. strengthened my desire to make the ascent of the only peak of the coast range that still remained unconquered. In a country so full of daring and valour as Venezuela — the land where the great War of Independence of South America first began — I was desirous of main taining that reputation for pluck and fearlessness which Englishmen have earned by a thousand more courageous deeds. There is a pleasure even in peril and hardship, the extent of which no one can more fully realize and appreciate than he who labours hard to reach some hitherto untrodden height. I determined, therefore, to be the first human being to set foot upon the summit of this highly respectable mountain. [The relative heights of the various mountains and towns in the State of Bolivar are shown in the accom panying sketch.] That the mere love of adventure was not the sole motive may well be supposed, and in forming a party to join me, the selection was made with a view to gathering information respecting the Naiguata that might hereafter prove to be a welcome addition to the physical history of a country to which I was grateful for a hearty welcome and unbounded hospi tality. The desire to join the expedition was freely expressed by many a Venezuelan and foreigner in Caracas, but as nearly all of them considered the experiment would prove abortive, few really cared to throw in their lot with us. But for the risk of a fall and the fear of the ridicule which always clings to an unsuccessful adventure, the Naiguata party would have been very formidable. u 0- -l> TO « tj 2j u °--S2tjSig2c«^3a3£fgBQlCt3 Zo6>h25$3>og,z2$&£* U -* eo -+ m rn ¦* K m t-.w mm m\o et a « ¦* i inmftm^wmfommN «>o ^- M Jo in in 3ftl 8 frit! g finals! n 3- ft .* ^ ¦* *¦ -* ta ft>o w omm e* ¦Se. h « ro ¦* in1© ^-oo o* o h m m ¦* vp>o cj-og Chap, ii.] MEMBERS OF THE NAIGUATA PARTY. 17 I wished, in fact, to give to the project the character of a scientific exploration, as well as that of a pleasure excursion, and the companions who in this true spirit of enterprise joined me were — i. General Leopoldo Terrero, whose good judg ment, analytical powers of observation, and practical knowledge, made his company of great value to us. 2. Senor Bamon Bolet, a young artist, whose merit, but for his early death, would have made his name known far beyond the boundaries of his fatherland. He looked forward with delight to the prospect of placing upon canvas the rich landscape which we knew there was to be seen from the summit. His rare talents only required to be brought into more intimate acquaintance with nature and her beauties. 3. Mr. Anton Goering, corresponding member of the Zoological Society, to whom a new field of labour presented itself. He is not only an experienced zoolo gist, but an able and faithful artist ; and his delight at the prospect of investigating the natural phenomena of these virgin hills was great. To behold that which none but the Creator had hitherto looked down upon was in itself a strong inducement for him to join our party. 4. Mr. Gustave Adolphe Hubel, a mining engineer, who gladly welcomed this opportunity of digesting a new slice of the earth's crust. From his geological knowledge we hoped for aid in identifying the dif ferent strata we were to encounter. 5. Dr. Simon Vaamonde, who, beyond the ordinary scientific interest attaching to' our excursion, would doubtless feel that with only ordinary luck he could vol. 11. B 18 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. ii. with certainty count upon some broken arm, some tiger-torn limb, some poisoned foot, perhaps even a dead body to deal with before he found his way home. 6. Sefior Henrique Lisboa, whose remembrance of that section of the South American continent which had given him birth enabled him to compare the characteristics of the mountains of Brazil with those of the State of Bolivar. Lisboa having been in several excursions with me, I looked forward to his company with great pleasure, as his wit, and an unbounded spirit of contradiction leading him to take the opposi tion side in all arguments, would help to enliven the journey and encourage us to get gaily over many parts of the road which might seem much longer but for his presence. Mounted on mules and preceded by four pioneers, who conducted our provisions on a Jerusalem pony, we left Caracas on the 21st of April 1872, at 1.30 p.m. — with the thermometer at 85°. As we passed through the town many turned out to watch the departure of what was considered the most Quixotic expedition ever undertaken. We stayed for some time at the village of Sabana Grande and rested in the casa de campo, occupied by M. Saillard, the French Consul, where we were joined by Lisboa from his suburban retreat close by. Starting off once more we quickly arrived at Los Dos Caminos (The Two Boads), 3050 feet above the level of the sea, where we stayed an hour beneath the cool corridors of the posada. Between Sabana Grande and Los Dos Caminos, on the right, on a knoll some little distance from the road, Chap, ii.] OUR GUIDES AND ATTENDANTS. 19 stand the ruins of an old mansion, said to have been the residence, for a brief period at the beginning of this century, of Baron von Humboldt. It was destroyed by the great earthquake of 1812, and is now known as the Humboldt Euins. From this place a good view of the Silla and the Naiguatd, can be obtained. Here we added to our store of provisions, and gave the requisite orders to the eight guides and attendants for the proper equipment of the expedition. I was determined that whatever might happen as to water, all should, 'at least, have sufficient to eat ; the un pleasant experiences of the trip to the Silla having taught the disadvantages of "short commons" in mountain climbing. As it is probably their only chance of a brief and passing fame, a list is here given of the names of our little army of locusts. They were • Miguel and Julian Kivero, Ambrosio Mesa, and Meliton Cuervo, guides ; Antonio Pacheco, attendant of Lisboa ; Jose" Jesus Sanoja, attendant of Vaamonde ; Juan Jose" Guillen, attendant of Bolet; and my own servant Juan Evangelista Fernandez. The last-named went very unwillingly. His mind was full of dismal fore bodings. He felt ill, and only came with us from the fear of being discharged from the services of, perhaps, a too easy master. I cannot say that "John the Evangelist " was of much use either as a pointer of paths or as a bearer of burdens. He was, however, an excellent meat and drink consumer. From all of which we may deduce this useful lesson: 20 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. ii. never take an unwilling person on a mountaineering expedition. Mounted once more on our mules we took the road to the right leading to Petare, and penetrated the beautiful sugar-cane plantation of Giiereguere, the pro perty of La Sefiora Vaamonde. This was considered one of the best-managed and most fruitful estates in the valley. The reduction works were in excellent order, and a credit to her son the Doctor, who had charge of the hacienda. It was six in the evening when we arrived at this lady's pleasant mansion, where we were to pass the night. The hospitality displayed by our truly amiable hostess was so unbounded as to lay us under a load of gratitude which this acknowledg ment does not in the least degree lessen. The last rays of evening light were employed in pointing our glasses towards the Peak of Naiguata. Boldly it seemed to defy us with its impassable aspect. The fading twilight melting into the first shadows of night made the proud mountain stand out distinctly against the sky, a great sombre mass, seeming half- rock and half-phantom. Darkness forced us, alas ! too soon to quit the view. Merrily glided on the hours preceding sleep in listening to the anecdotes related by our guides and attendants. Half-crediting, half- discrediting, we eagerly hearkened to these self- deluded mortals as they, in a rough, forcible, and ener getic manner, chanted the tales of the Naiguatd, and the wonders nature was to disclose to our eyes on the morrow. Had we believed all, we should have ex pected to meet tigers at every turn and snakes at Chap, ii.] PRECIPICE OF THE "TIGER'S LEAP:1 21 every foot of our journey. One of these grim nar ratives had relation to an accident which occurred at the terrible precipice known as the " Tiger's Leap." Some peasants, a man, his wife, and child, accom panied by a friend, were riding along this danger ous path ; the ledge only admitting of Indian file, the Avoman with her child in her arms being in the middle. The husband had got some distance ahead, the friend behind stayed to light his cigar, leaving the woman for a short time to pursue her way alone. Having got his smoking apparatus into order, he spurred on his quadruped and speedily over took the husband. " Where is your wife ? " was his inquiry. " She has not passed, she is behind," replied the husband. " She is not behind," said the compadre. A terrible fear" entered into their hearts ; and they knew that the unfortunate woman must have fallen over the precipice. They turned back to the " Tiger's Leap," and there, down, down hundreds of feet below, lay the shapeless masses of humanity and horse-flesh that but a few moments before were in the full vigour of life and health. As~ they stood spell-bound at this terrible sight a feeble cry reached their ears, and they saw the child lying in a little patch of vegetation on the very edge of the precipice. The darkness and terror of death cannot destroy a mother's love, and even in the agony of that descent into the cruel grave below she had 22 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. ii. with the strength of despair thrown her babe into its haven of safety. Then there was a story of an expedition which set out ¦ to conquer the peak — and failed. The mountaineers lost their way, and had exhausted both provisions and water. There was no help for it but to camp out all night. The leader suffered little from the exposure, but next morning on looking round he was horrified to see that all the members of his party were from cold in a state of stupefaction. He took them one by one and rolled them down the sides of a steep hill. This was rough treatment certainly, but it succeeded. A more bruised band of wretches was never witnessed, still none of these mangled objects of humanity made on that occasion an ill-conditioned exit. No doubt in the legends we heard that evening the narrators exaggerated the dangers, if not from a desire to fill us with fears, at least to give interest and dark colour to the prospect before us. We discussed also the question of the route that should be taken, and decided to follow the advice of Dr. Vaamonde, which was, to ascend by the side of the mountain opposite to the Silla, following the road as far as it went, and afterwards by the ascending angles leading to the crest of the ridge. It was evident that our track would in a great measure be chosen by circumstances, we could only keep following up one ridge until it 'joined another. Backwards and forwards to Petare in the interest of the commissariat department went the pioneers. For an amount of money agreed upon between us they Chap, ii.] A NIGHT AT GUEREGUERE. 23 were to furnish their own provisions for the journey, whilst our supplies were to be held in special reserve. When I saw their sack next morning it presented beggarly proportions when compared with our own. Truly they threw in their lot with their employers, but it was somewhat of a one-sided partnership that they so cunningly thrust upon us. The sleeping arrangements for the night were varied in their character. I had a comfortable bed, some of the party lay on sofas, whilst Goering stretched him self on the floor with his saddle-bags for a pillow. " He that is low need fear no fall," and he was soon soundly sleeping the sleep of the just. Indeed, the whole company, being aware that there remained only two or three hours in which to rest, showed a laudable disposition to make the most of the flying moments by giving audible indications of vigorous slumber. At 4.40 A.M., on the 2 2d, we sallied forth, fifteen persons in all. The thermometer stood at 62°. Inter secting the Guarenas road, and tracing out a course in a northerly direction, an hour's ride brought us to T6come, the estate of General Santos Jurado, situated on a gentle rise at the foot of the mountain, 3325 feet above sea-level. The temperature had increased to 690. The bridle-path behind this estate is extremely steep, and full of crevices produced by the waters in the rainy season precipitating themselves with great impetus from the sides of the mountain. It has been opened out by the charcoal-burners, who transport their produce along it on the backs of asses. These animals have acquired an extraordinary dexterity in 24 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. ii. avoiding danger, and they walk on the narrowest foot path as securely as a horse would trot on a turnpike road. At this point, after crossing the little river T6come, the ascent fairly began. For some distance the road was only difficult for our mules on account of its steepness ; it tried their mettle, however, and made them pant and blow at a furious rate. Some of the company thought it prudent to dismount at places where the ledge was hardly broader than a curbstone, and where a false step would have given a premature finale to our expedition. Still the mule of this country fully merits the great confidence reposed in it, and in some spots — " Where hardly a human foot could pass, Or a human heart would dare" — I confess I felt safer on its back than when walking ; so great is the skill and steadiness displayed in picking a way along these dangerous slopes. Where a descent had to be made the extreme steepness of the trail became really hazardous, threatening our lives, and compelling repeated dismounts in the most perilous places. It would have been, however, much more to my taste to have dispensed with the mule altogether, were it not that I was anxious to husband my strength for the unknown regions above, and for the final con test with the Peak. Fifteen minutes after we had begun the ascent we reached a height of 3725 feet, and the temperature lowered to 630. By six o'clock we had gained 530 feet more, and were 4255 feet high, with the thermo- Chap, ii.] AMONG THE FOOT-HILLS. 25 meter indicating 62°. The fresh morning and the pure mountain air filled our minds with that child like gaiety which is nothing more than the contagion of nature's joy when she first espies Aurora's glimmer ing rays, whose absence she has wept among the shadows. In such moments the burden of years seems to roll from off one's shoulders, the voice gains strength, the step is quickened if we walk afoot, we gallop if on horseback, we feel a pleasure in being wet by the dew, we are keenly susceptible to external nature ; our bodies long for movement, and the road seems short, however toilsome it may be. A wild spirit of hilarity possessed us, and our harsh shouts echoed through the foot-hills of the Naiguata. Stimulated, perhaps, by our gaiety, the animals pro gressed rapidly along the acute zigzags. From the outer angles we could talk to each other in spite of the long intervening road-space between each person. On our right rose mountains looking as if they would fall upon us ; on our left, steep precipices threatening instant destruction. Going along the mountain-side we came out upon a spot containing a few square yards of table-land. It was not what might be exactly called a plain, but the nearest approach to level ground we had encountered since we left the valley, and here we dismounted to rest our beasts. The sweat was running from their smoking flanks, and their short heavy gasps for breath showed how great was their fatigue. From foot to ridge, shadows covered all and struggled with the daybreak, but at the, first ray of 26 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. ii. the sun behind the interposing hill stretching out like a band of dark green, we saw the bald summit of the Silla. In appearance it was not unlike a Phrygian cap ; the sun had touched its tip with gold, but all around the rest of nature lay cold, dark, and dormant. All the drawing-books were unpacked, and some daring brushes wetted paper, whilst the mules, to whom the grandeur of the scenery signified nothing, amused themselves by nibbling the tufts of grass refreshed by the dew. On our immediate right ran the river T6come, the windings it made in order to reach the valley glittering like the rings of a silver serpent ; on the left the broken ground skirting the Silla; and on the east, rising above us, the crags and precipices which form the Naiguatd/s most impenetrable defence. Towards the south, the mists covered the valleys of the Tuy completely, and it was in vain we tried to make out a single detail of this most beautiful garden of the State of Bolivar. North-west of us, dotted with the huts of charcoal- burners, was the great amphitheatre formed by the Silla, the Naiguata, and the connecting ridge between, all sloping down to the Quebrada de Cachimbo. We continued the ascent, and presently met with a workman who pointed out a precipice where, a fort night before, a poor fellow had lost his life. We were now 4865 feet high — the temperature 6 1°. After a few minutes' rest we took the road to the right, leaving to the left the charcoal-burners' trail leading to the amphitheatre. At eight o'clock in the morning Cerro Duarte (5375 feet) was reached ; it is a most beautiful Chap, ii.] CERRO DUARTE. 27 domain, separated from the Silla by a profound abyss fearful to contemplate. Many a heartfelt wish for the peace and happiness of the pretty "Fior de Cachimbo " was wafted over the dark and frowning chasm dividing us from her and her mountain home. In this place the temperature had lowered to 6o°. From this great elevation the mountains circling the valley of Caracas began to flatten to our sight, and Antimano, El Valle, Petare, and a few villages of the Tuy, which appeared to be coming to life again though still half- wrapped in mist, formed, with the variegated and symmetrical corn-fields and plantations of the neighbourhood, a landscape delightfully picturesque and ravishingly beautiful. CHAPTER III. THE ASCENT OP THE NAIGUATA. PAET II. THE RISE TO THE RIDGE. " But, those attained, we tremble to survey The growing labours of the lengthened way ; The increasing prospect tires our wandering eyes, Hills peep o'er hills, and Alps on Alps arise ! " — Pope. Whilst we were busy sight - seeing, our host, Pio Berroteran, a worthy hard - working farmer who owned Cerro Duarte, aided his esposa in the prepa rations of the desayuno. Berroteran with his wife's consent — given with fear and trembling — decided to accompany us on the expedition, for, though he had done plenty of mountaineering, he had never made the ascent of the Naiguata. He was a noble-looking fellow, with honesty engraven on every lineament of his tran quil face. With him we felt safer than with the guides we had brought from Caracas, over whom he was at once appointed commander-in-chief. It was thought on all sides that his counsel would do us golden service, and that our chances of success were nowr very much improved. Turning our backs on the meseta or little table-land Chap, iii.] GUIDES VERSUS DONKEYS. 29 of Cerro Duarfe, the stout-hearted animals bore us up the next steep rise without much evidence of ex haustion. At the hut of a charcoal-burner we found it necessary to leave them, as all vestige of road, path, track, or trail ended a short distance ahead. It was now nine o'clock, and we soon began to experience the disagreeable effects produced by the rays of the sun as it rose from behind the Naiguata. The provisions which the humble donkey had carried so far, with that fortitude peculiar to his docile race, were now transferred to the backs and shoulders of his bipedal brethren. What a happy day it will be for mountaineers when pack-animals can manage precipitously inclined slopes and sharp ascending angles ! Then farewell to guides, " ye hungry wolves, adieu ! " On a beast of burden food is not lost, but a guide, when he has robbed without limit and fed him self to repletion, can in a moment change his look, and appear as though he were perishing from hunger, when dying of plethora would better describe his condition. The place where we left the animals we called La Soledad — The Solitude — not from its desert-like aspect alone, but because it was the name of the woman to whose charge they were committed. I was much impressed by the contrast between the miserable hovel of the Sefiora Soledad and the comfortable dwelling graced by the presence of Madame Berroteran from whence we had just come. In the habitation of the tiller of the soil — a high farmer certainly — there were cleanliness, hospitality, 30 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. iii. plenty, neatness, order, and comfort ; but here, in this extreme outpost of civilization, this abomination of desolation, there were squalor, wretchedness, and piled-up misery, painful to behold ; the misery which is the Nemesis of Ignorance and Idleness. Berroteran, with honest industry, made the kindly earth to bloom in fruits and flowers ; the charcoal- burner only robbed her, and converted her fair scenes into a howling wilderness. Berroteran was the only one on those heights who devoted himself to agri culture, and he alone appeared to live in comfort. The others, who obtained a miserable pittance by the piecemeal destruction of these fine virgin forests, had the careworn marks of adversity stamped upon them. These locusts are gradually destroying the whole of the trees in order to supply the city of Caracas with charcoal and firewood. In a short time there will be no wood left, and then the valley will lose its rich vegetation and semi-tropical aspect. Deprived of the forests, the hills will not retain the moisture for gradual distribution during the dry season, and thus the source of the streams fertilizing the vales below will be dried up, and the now blooming garden con verted into an arid waste. Under the Spanish rule the Cordillera del Avila was regarded as the property of the state, and none were permitted to cut down the trees growing thereon. It is certainly bad policy to allow the rapid destruc tion of recent years to proceed unchecked. At least some Government precautions should be taken to enforce the planting of one or two fresh trees for Chap, iii.] WILD FRUITS. 31 every one destroyed, which would have the effect of mitigating the evil. To return to Soledad — the thermometer in the shade indicated 750, and in the water 63°. The height was 6550 feet. In this part the vegetation, although profuse, was sickly and stunted, due possibly to the fact of the charcoal-burners in this vicinity having almost stripped the mountain-sides of big timber. Here I happened to see some wild strawberries and brambles, whose luscious fruits brought to memory sweet associations of early days. My heart felt moved by the reminiscences which now arose in the presence of a scene indescribably beautiful. Before me stretched an immense horizon, and beyond the impenetrable vaporous lines I looked, but looked in vain, for the land whence proceeded my gladsome recollections. Though the mind fondly lingered with memories of the past, it was only for a moment, for there was work enough ahead to monopolize all the powers of mind and body for its due accomplish ment. The strawberries and brambles found by the way side served somewhat to mitigate the thirst produced by the heat and fatigue of ascending a very steep hillside. The greatest surprise was shown by the inhabitants of those places when they saw us follow ing a direction which their few wants and little curiosity had never tempted them to essay. At the last of the huts or rancherias we passed, the woman who lived there stood at the door with some half-naked 32 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. children, showing in her face very plainly the fear she entertained that we were not in our sober senses. It was curious to observe the caprices of vegetation ; trees which a thousand yards lower down attained great bulk, were at this part but little developed, whilst on the contrary some of the plants assumed the proportions of small trees. Ferns of 20 to 30 feet high, with trunks of 3 feet in circumference, were common. From a fine spring of water bordering a terra in cognita we drew what was supposed to be our last supply. Three full garrafones or demi-johns consti tuted our sole stock and store. Precious then should have been these jars filled from La Fuente de la Vida in the estimation of every member of the company. At the height of 6625 feet the temperature had risen to 76°, and at this point, " The Fountain of Life," the difficulties of the ascent, strictly speaking, began. We were entering upon an unknown land, there were no guide-books to show the route, no traditional in formation of former travellers to aid us ; our course was a matter of mere conjecture, our future — doubtful. Dr. Vaamonde, claiming the right which science un questionably vouchsafed to him of examining the state of our health before venturing further towards the summit, felt every individual pulse, probably to see if he could discover in the irregularity of its beating signs of fear. We had the pleasure of finding him perfectly satisfied with the examination, and the cere mony ended by his prescribing for both physician and patients a modest refreshment. We had looked some- the attack on el calvario. Chap, iii.] A STIFF BIT OF CLIMBING. 33 what curiously at each other to see if there were any traces of faint-heartedness, but the white feather was nowhere visible. We formed jocosely, but in sober earnest never theless, a resolution to conquer or die, and with a dash of enthusiasm entered upon the unexplored territory. Grasping with difficulty the trunks of trees, we commenced to ascend a frightfully steep mountain slope. No enticing gap appeared in the forest as it closed around us, but inch by inch, foot by foot, onward and upward, through a close and thick-set mass of vegetation, the guides with long- bladed knives in hand hacked out a passage for our feet. At short intervals we stopped to take breath, the conversation ceased entirely, fun and frolic had given place to quick loud breathings, telling of chests violently agitated with effort and fatigue. There were moments when we lost all hope of gaining the top of that interminable ladder. Deep gasps showed how much this ill-judged spurt — for we were all sadly out of training — had taxed the strength ; and now and again a loud Caramba ! from a Venezuelan, and a still louder equivalent expletive from a foreigner, spoke of some one having come to grief. More than one member of the party covered with perspiration fell exhausted to the ground. The name of El Calvario was given to this mountain side. On helping the pioneers to carry the water we found the contents of the flasks greatly diminished, owing to the inconsiderate draughts they had taken, without reflecting that their employers also were VOL. ii. o 34 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. iii. human beings, and therefore subject to the same 'Wants and the same weaknesses. Most ungracious wretches were they — " Fit for mountains and the barbarous caves Where manners ne'er were preached ! " The footing of familiarity on which we had placed the guides was decidedly prejudicial to our comfort. We had allowed them a freedom that proved destruc tive to discipline and order. They were of course as ignorant as ourselves of the best route, and in fact served only to transport our provisions ; and the manner in which they relieved themselves of the trouble of carrying full water-flasks forced us to take these precious treasures into our own charge. The heat had increased, and although the altitude of 7295 feet had been attained, the thermometer keeping pace with it, now indicated 780. At last we came to a place which had been reached by the great fire of 1868. The charred shrubs broke when we leaned against them in ascending, and the acclivity was so perpendicular, and the dry grass so slippery, that it seemed as if we were going upon ice and making one step forward to two steps backward. It was agreed upon to call this slope the Cuesta de los Pasos Perdidos (Mountain Side of the Lost Steps). We escaped hence by scrambling, with faces and hands as black as negroes, and, as the unpleasant struggle had not at all helped to put us in good temper, our appearances were grotesquely diabolical. My servant had to scrape the soles of my boots which had be- Chap, iii.] A HALT FOR BREAKFAST. 35 come as smooth as glass ; without this rasping pro cess it would have been impossible to proceed except barefooted — a measure not to be thought of in a dis trict abounding with insect life of a highly poisonous nature, and reported to be the asylum also of still more dangerous reptiles. Here we held a consultation to decide if we should have breakfast (it was already eleven o'clock) ; but THE BREAKFAST PARTY ON EL CALVABIO. as the ground was very little adapted for the purpose, our position was even worse than that described in the rhyme — " I cannot sit or stand, the beggar cries, But if he speaks the truth, he surely lies ! " we resolved to go a little to the left, and there, reclining against some stocks of gramineous plants, 36 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. iii. and under their grateful shade, my companions took a hasty breakfast. I did not join them, preferring to avail myself of the opportunity the time afforded to sleep off some of the fatigue rather than load myself with the weight of a few ounces of our precious stores. It was 11.35 a.m., and we had reached a height of 7575 feet. In half an hour we set forth again, and twenty minutes afterwards arrived at the foot of a rock to which we gave the name of La Trinchera (The Trench). Imagining it to be a spur of the mountain which offered the most direct route up to the ridge, the climb was commenced. The way was long, rough, steep, and narrow ; the foothold slight, and insecure, yet, in fifteen minutes we reached its sum mit, and to seat ourselves thereon all felt was a real triumph. The part of the mountain at which we had now arrived deserved baptizing with a distinct name, one of the party therefore called it the Cerro de los treinta y dos diablos (Mountain of the thirty -two devils) ; being more proud of our endurance than desirous to be complimentary — he considering that if each of the sixteen mountaineers had not been equal to at least two demons we could never have arrived at this place ! Looking up we saw the mountain rising peak above peak to its cloud-topped summit ; but, alas ! between us lay ravines and great chasms enough to daunt the stoutest. We were all too plucky to think of failure, yet I doubt if any of us really expected to reach the top of the Naiguata' in safety ; but we had made a solemn compact to attempt Chap, iii.] THE TIGER'S LAIR. 37 it, ignoring, in the face of a thousand risks, the pos sibility of failure. The descent of the face of this deceptive spur or peak, which was very precipitous, had now to be made. The affair was managed expeditiously, with sundry THE TIGERS DEN. exclamations echoing among the hills telling of the bruises inevitable in such rough work. In the valley we entered a thick wood whose density defied the entrance of the sunbeams, and where bambusecu interweaving their foliage formed magnificent arcades and beautiful pavilions. It was 38 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. iii. a place of closely matted woods, " where crouching tigers wait their hapless prey ; " and it was not long before we came upon traces of the recent presence of one of these animals. Under other cir cumstances I should have admired the delicate archi tectural taste of the wild beast, for the spot was one that an artist would have selected as the place upon which to erect the dwelling of his dreams, but at that moment my mind, solely from the artistic point of view, did not feel inclined to see the grandeur of this palace, and I thought it expedient, and very reasonable, to place myself in the centre of the party, calculating that, in case we had to make an abrupt acquaintance with the proprietor of this beauti ful domain, those who occupied the extreme ends would have first to render him the honours due to his rank. Leaving the tiger's lair we steered for another emi nence which lay before us, and at 2 p.m. we ascended it. The temperature there was 83°, and the height 8175 feet. The sun, hiding itself behind a cloud on the top of the Silla, began to pour its rays down into the Quebrada de Cachimbo, up which a thick mist was drifting ; although we were at or near the same level as the summit of the Silla, the effect of the sun's rays made that mountain assume undue proportions as it towered above us. There was much consternation here at the sudden illness of Dr. Vaamonde. We naturally looked to him to help us out of any bodily accident, but he, alas ! was the first of the party to be placed hors de combat. Chap, iii.] FAILURE OF THE WATER SUPPLY. 39 He lay down incapable of proceeding farther. At first we attributed his malady to disappointment at not hav ing any broken bones to set, but Bolet was attacked in the same way, and as I was never sorry for an excuse I spread my rug and had a quiet sleep. Goering led on the remainder of our party for a short distance, but returned to warn us of the folly of remaining in a place so dangerous. Dr. Vaamonde having somewhat recovered we determined to proceed. As a testimony of our gratitude for this humane warning, "Punta de Goering " was the name given to the district. Broken ground, gently undulating, was our next experience, and the change was delightful after the rough work of the morning. Three hundred and fifty feet higher up we found the dry bed of (what in winter would be) a small lake formed by the waters which come down from the highest part of the mountain, and receive in this ravine a check to their rapid discharge. Here grew a delicate straw, promising us a soft bed, and as even ing was already drawing near, it being 3.30 p.m., we took possession of the spot, and by unanimous consent it was selected for our encampment and head-quarters on the ridge. A grave question now presented itself, casting a gloom over every face. We had not water enough to last out the remainder of our journey to the peak, not even sufficient for the night. The situation was a doubtful one, and led to many reflections. In ex peditions of this nature I would suggest that the water should be carried in double-locked cases, of 40 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. iii. which two persons should each have a key, the one use less without the other. The custodians, kept always as far apart as possible, should be persons of undoubted honour and integrity, and very well watched. At such an immense elevation, after a long dry sea son we could not reckon upon finding a single drop of water. It was idle to think of returning to the small well from which we had drawn our supply, and losing the vantage-ground already gained with so much painful labour; while to turn back and abandon the enterprise, apparently so close to its termination, was a thing which the unflinching determination of the band obstinately forbade. Various were the opinions on this occasion, all agreeing, however, that the calamity which pre sented itself to us was very great. Only Lisboa re mained tranquil, assuring us that for himself the deprivation was nothing, as he. could pass a whole day without even wishing for water. We all envied the Brazilian at that moment, although his statement brought only ridicule upon him, for we declared him an outsider who ought to have neither voice nor vote in our deliberations. In this affliction it occurred to my mind to send some of our followers in search of water, and I succeeded in inducing three of the guides to undertake the quest, by addressing to them the warmest personal eulogies mingled with the per suasive eloquence of pounds sterling. They set off in the direction of the Well of Life, promising to be back in the morning of the following day, and in this hope we addressed ourselves with much gusto to a delicious meal. The first rank in it was assigned Chap, iii.] OUR CAMPING GROUND. 41 to the native delicacy hallacas — highly spiced pud dings made from minced meat and coarse Indian corn meal, and boiled in a covering of banana leaves. Having finished gathering brushwood to feed the fire which was to save us from the severity of the cold during the night, as well as to lessen the proba bility of an extemporaneous visit from the king of these forests, we devoted ourselves to the pleasant occupation of examining the surrounding domain. Enormous masses of stone lay scattered about with that negligence and disorder peculiar to Nature, inducing a suspicion that that venerable old lady must have been madly frolicsome when she did this portion of her work. Here great rocks formed bulwarks and galleries for our encampment ; there platforms whence the sight could follow the dis tant lines of the wide horizon ; whilst in the midst of these a few shrubs appeared struggling for a dubious existence. Lower down the hillsides were plants which showed all the colours of the rainbow among their glowing clusters. What a sight it would be to see this district after the rainy season when all around is green and fresh and all the flowers are in bloom ! During a halt in the evening we mounted one of the highest of the rocks. " On the jag of a mountain crag " some of us commenced to take notes, and others to sketch ; Bolet began to paint, whilst Terrero beneath busied himself with botanizing. The scene before us was one of such grandeur and solem nity that I became enraptured in its contemplation. 42 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. iii. To the south the valleys and mountains formed an irregular table-land, and beyond the farthest hills were seen the plains below. To the north, about 500 feet above us, by an optical illusion, the entire chain of mountains seemed to extend, like an endless curtain, very peculiarly folded in some of its parts. To the east the grand peak of the Naiguatd appeared-as if retreating from our sight like a night vision, whilst narrowing the horizon to the west were visible the Silla of Caracas and the mountains of Aragua. Al ready the mists were rising towards the Silla, and beyond, through a large gap in the ridge, we could discern what looked like the sea. The sun before withdrawing its light completely from the brows of the Silla cast its beams through the fog with ex quisite play of light and shade, and soon fell upon the distant ocean, and in shadow and silence we watched the burning globe despoiled of its rays, tinged with purple, and surmounted by a sort of shining crown or cupola. As it sank into the blue waters the atmosphere which surrounded it seemed to grow rarer and purer ; the crown extended until it became lost in the great circle of the sky ; its purple changed to crimson, and meridians of black and green and blue girded it symmetrically. Gradually it dis appeared, and with it the band of ruby which had tinged the surface of the waters before it finally sank into their waves. At this moment the moon rose behind us, illumining with its pale light the summits of the hills, and giving to the ocean the appearance of an immense shield of burnished steel. Chap, iii.] THE WATCHES OF THE NIGHT. 43 At_7 p.m. the temperature was 54". The height of our encampment was 8450 feet above the sea. The fire being lighted, and our party grouped around, we commenced a series of comic and lyric perform ances, in which every one displayed his best humour and attitude, the proceedings terminating with the national primitive " dance of the bears," this panto mime being executed by our two artists with such gracefulness as to draw from the audience applause loud and prolonged. The thermometer at 8 p.m. marked 50° of temperature, and 52° in the water. Soon after, accommodated to the best advantage on our beds of straw covered with blankets and cloaks, with our heads resting upon ungrateful stone pillows, we gave ourselves up to rest and sleep. The agreement that one of the party should sit up all night in order to guard against the attack of wild beasts was abandoned. The intention of having a relief -guard was dictated by the commonest prudence, but Lisboa, the first who took his turn at it, fell asleep in his watch and did not arouse until morning. CHAPTER IV. THE ascent of the naiguata. PART III. THE RIDGE. " They gripe their oaks, and every panting breast, Is raised by turns with hope, by turns with fear depress'd." — Drtden. The thermometer must have fallen almost to freezing point in the night, for at six next morning (April 23d) it stood at 43°, when we all arose shaking like aspens. The night on the Silla was bad enough, but child's play compared to this. From the necessity of being encumbered with as little baggage as possible our coverings were but scanty. The fatigue of the preceding day, and the chilliness of the damps and dews which had struck through our clothes, combined to fill us with cramps and aches. We jested at such trifles, however, and one of the party declared that the chattering teeth reminded him of a band of nigger minstrels rattling their castanets. But if our frozen bodies were in evil case, our hearts were Chap, iv.] RETURN OF THE WATER-CARRIERS. 45 stout and brave, and beat high with the prospect of a successful termination to this toilsome enter prise. Full of hope we resumed our preparations for the journey. Half an hour afterwards were heard the shouts of the pioneers with the water. We answered them with joyful exclamations and loud hurrahs ; and saluted the precious liquid with a salvo of two guns, the echoing sounds of which were lost while repeat ing themselves successively in the recesses of the mountains. Soon coffee was boiling in a calcerola (enamelled pan), which we rather ate than drank, so stingy with the water had been the improvised cook. The coffee, although nearly the consistence of paste, had not a bad taste, and at all events served to produce warmth, and stimulate the circulation of the blood of the benumbed band. I may give as the result of some experience a piece of advice which will be of service to any one forming part of such an expe dition. When all have to drink out of one dish drink last, . for common politeness will leave the largest share to the last man, who will also have the grounds — a by-product not to be despised on such an occasion. At 7 a.m. we recommenced our march, carrying some flasks filled with water ; against my advice the remaining liquid, with the provisions, blankets, and everything not likely to be of immediate use, were left behind in charge of two guides. This precau tion made us somewhat more nimble for the ascent, but was afterwards the cause of new and more terrible 46 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. iv. sufferings. It was intended as a safeguard against the predatory incursions of wild beasts, but the most ravenous of animals could not have been more de structive than those we left in charge of our stores. The Doctor briefly examined the group, and pro nounced us sound in wind and limb, but none doubted that he was anticipating plenty of practice in the surgical line within the next few hours. We marched along, Indian file, in morose silence, for we were all impressed with the difficulties of the desperate work opening up ahead. We took with us four servants, two guides, and Berroteran, who, although desiring no remuneration for the important services he rendered us, endured all our caprices with praiseworthy patience. He merely smiled at the occasional " cantankerousness " which the inconveniences of the journey caused some of the members to exhibit. The torments inflicted upon him would have tried the piety and good temper of a saint. " Sweet are the uses of adversity " is a maxim that ckoes not apply to the adversities of mountaineer ing, as these only develop the sourer parts of human nature. I was so struck with Berroteran's forbear ance and native courtesy that I dubbed him Saint Berroteran, and I am sure there are many worse fellows than he in the calendar. Our march was rendered more difficult by lack of any traditional precedent, and the necessity of taking- circuitous routes in order to avoid the obstacles presenting themselves in following what seemed to be the most direct way to our destination. The Chap, iv.] ISOLATED ROCKS ON THE RIDGE. 47 "^\._^ traces of vegetation grew fainter as we ascended, without, however, losing their peculiar character. The quartz now became abundant, and here and there jutting out from the mountain-side were enormous masses of rock, and the shapes these assumed were exceedingly grotesque, for they looked like the mouldering monu ments in the bury- ing-ground of some barbarous and gi gantic tribe. We would gladly have remained to gaze upon these ruins, awful in decay, but it could not be. We had taken Excelsior for our motto, and upwards we must go, and that with hurried steps. At the end of a march of thirty-five minutes the summit of one of the eminences into which the mountain of the Naiguata' is divided was reached. Here, looking towards the north, we were seized with amazement at the sublimity of the scene, and we could understand the surprise Nunez de Balboa must have felt on discovering from the summits of the Andes the borders of the Pacific ; for, on coming sud denly on this rise in the ridge, whose spurs we had been lately traversing, all the glories of land and sea burst upon us. The ocean looked like a gigantic tapestry, suspended from an apparently concave heaven — its aspect (ever changing) was dark, deep, ISOLATED KOCK ON THB EIDGE. 48 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. iv. mysterious, opaque, and almost colourless, whilst miles away its waves were seen to break on the yellow sands of Cabo Blanco, Juan Dias, and other places on the coast. The vegetation about us alone presented a sad appearance, as it consisted of only four families, and these stunted shrubs. Clefts and caverns abounded on all sides; large stones which had fallen upon deep crevices, formed natural bridges ; everywhere around was seen Nature's ISOLATED ROCKS ON THE RIDCE. power in her wildest mood — "ruin upon ruin, rout on rout, confusion worse confounded." This peak (8795 feet) Ave had hoped was the last, but we found out by sad experience the vanity of human wishes ; the summit of the Naiguata appeared to be re ceding from us, and was still peak after peak far away. Descending, we directed our steps towards the next rise, following the ridge till it brought us to the foot of some enormous gneiss rocks, which age and storm had Chap, iv.] MINOR PEAKS OF THE MOUNTAIN. 49 polished, and we began resolutely to ascend the new height, for all our efforts to flank this impediment to our progress proved abortive, as the ridge had gradually become more precipitous, and its spurs, serviceable heretofore, were now rendered almost unavailable. The isolated peaks into which this part of the coast range is divided have the appearance of the naked turrets of an old round tower. Plants cannot grow, ISOLATED ROCK ON THE RIDGE. nor seeds germinate on their inhospitable brows, which, when warmed by the rays of the sun, throw out an excessive heat. It is my belief that the only way to this elevated point of the Naiguatd, is along the spine of the ridge of which we made use ; the rocks, though rough as files, offering sufficient hold during its perilous ascent. After some rough experiences in the descent of the height already mentioned we came to a large stone o VOL. II. 50 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. iv. which in falling over an abyss (one of the frequent clefts or gashes in the ridge) had formed a wonderful natural bridge, the opposite extremity of the stone seem ing to rest upon another piece of rock at a violently inclined angle, but in reality leaving a gap which required a great jump to clear. Not over anxious to monopolise either the glory or the danger of leading the way across the chasm, I tried my persuasive powers on a guide to induce him to be the pioneer, but as he obstinately refused the venture, I was obliged after all to set the example. With the words Victoria 6 muerte I threw myself on the opposite side, where I gained a safe footing amidst the hurrahs of our com pany who were then just arriving on the scene. Had I failed to clear the space I should have been instantly dashed to pieces. I could not help reflecting that if I had succeeded in inducing one of our useless guides to lead the way, and he had fallen down the abyss, it would have drawn forth one of the noblest sentiments of our nature — viz., that Christian fortitude with which man bears the misfortunes and sorrows of others ! Puente del Salto was the name given to the bridge, and the best view of the Naiguata was from this locality.* The Grand Peak looked appalling, and seemed to bid the stoutest mountaineer despair — hill after hill rising one above the other, and culminating in a summit which appeared absolutely impossible to attain. I hurried on with Berroteran, leaving our party * The " Illustrated London News,'' of August 24, 1872, contains a sketch of the Peak of Naiguata taken from this spot. Chap, iv.] DISAPPOINTMENT. 51 either to take the " leap for life" — which some did — or to go by a circuitous route through the ravine below. The isolation of the peak of the Naiguata increases with time ; there are traces of earthquakes on every side, and we may expect that some of these disturbances will rend the ridge with gashes of such a character as to make the summit totally inaccessible. We arrived shortly at the foot of another rise which it was necessary to scale, and which several of the com pany in their flights of fancy supposed was the goal of our pilgrimage. Alas ! the wish was only father to the thought, for the end was not yet. The hope of reach ing its summit disappeared when we found ourselves unable to fix upon any point where it was possible to attempt an ascent. For a while we stood irresolute until we discovered a slope which terminated in a kind of step with some- little vegetation growing in its crevices. This seemed to promise resistance to our feet, whilst with our knives we could dig holes into the wall as we climbed up. We ventured, and thus cutting our way, aided after a time by a rope which one of our nimble guides threw to us from the top, the brow was gained. This was at 9.30 a.m. ; the tem perature we found to be 720, and the height 9340 feet. Some intervening mounts had yet to be climbed or cir cumvented before the final elevation could be reached. The high tor on which a few of the party were now congregated did not form, like the others, an altogether isolated eminence, but served as a base to the next one, which in its turn extended towards the east by a wall-shaped ridge, flanked on both sides by the most 52 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. iv. fearful depths. At the highest point of this hill the rocks form three round columns, which seen from afar appear like the remains of a ruined temple. He who ascends for the first time may easily, here, believe himself to be already at the end of his journey, but a good look-out ahead is sufficient to show him his error. The report of a gun drew our attention to the fact that Dr. Vaamonde, below, had just killed a cachicamo (armadillo), which apparently had been running over the ridge in search of food. No great advantage resulted from this, however, for the unfortunate ani mal was extremely thin. It is supposed to inhabit the plains only, and its appearance 9000 feet above the sea astonished us. As we ascended it became noteworthy that the vegetation had been gradually changing in character, assuming the forms and qualities stated by geographers to belong to the flora of regions where the tempera ture is exceedingly low. There was thus an entire change in the course of our ascent to the summit of the Naiguatd,. But, upon the deposits brought down by the rains to the level lands, which here open between rock and rock, sheltered from the wind, and rendered fruitful by the rays of the sun, vegetation has sprung up which may be called exotic, and beautiful grasses and plants were to be found whose habitat was nominally 3000 feet lower down. It appears that, owing to a rare atmospherical combination which would have an interest for science, this spot has a temperature equal to that which is artificially obtained in hot-houses. Chap, iv.] A TERRIBLE PRECIPICE. 53 Following for nearly two hundred yards the narrow way previously mentioned, which at its broadest scarcely measured three feet, with one side bordered by a grand precipice of at least 3000 feet, we came to a place which we called El Balcon (The Balcony). 6&P HI* ill iliiPl flffi %M MM) ws*m ''If 'HBHfiMYfi its ms v ¦ ''3*3 THE GRAND PRECIPICE. " Down those precipitous, black, jagged rocks, For ever shattered and the same for ever," we could not look without a slight feeling of dizzi ness, and it required some time to accustom us to the sight of the abyss along which we had come, and 54 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. iv. near which we now sat for the contemplation of its aspect and its surroundings. Looking back we saw at a considerable distance, on a spur leading up to the ridge of the mountain, a peculiarly-shaped stone having the appearance of a sphinx — an exact resemb lance of the ancient Egyptian mystery. On the right, 500 yards further on in a direct line, we saw the needle of the Naiguata' whose side towards the north- north-west was covered with vegetation. In this neighbourhood Mr Hubel called our attention to the small dry bed of -a lake where the vegetable matter in fermentation had caused the formation, though very imperfectly, of a matter decided to be turf. We found two or three of these peat deposits, and their moisture led us to hope for a spring, but we were disappointed. Between the second of the three great heights into which the Naiguata', is divided and the third, "the grand peak," the entire hillside is covered with masses of rock, wild and grotesque in form, and thrown together in the most startling dis order. We put the same manoeuvre into practice as before in ascending the slopes of the next elevation. With sticks and knives we made indentations in its side for footholds, and by this method we gained the top, where we stopped to take breath. There we were in the presence of a geological fact already known to science but the importance of which was once more confirmed ; all the exposed bluffs, pre cipices, and walls of rock lay in a north-north-easterly direction, and in general they were surmounted by loose stones, the greater part of which jutted out as Chap, iv.] ON EARTHQUAKES. 55 if ready to precipitate themselves into the abyss, but were held back by the weight of the matter resting upon their other extremities. This natural mechan ism at the same time causes the formation of spacious grottoes. It is said that the water-falls of the Cordi llera, which are large and rapid, slope in the same direc tion. It may, therefore, be supposed that the great upheaval or eruption, which gave form to this part of the chain, has verified in the sense indicated this general law of the direction of north-north-east. If what has been told me by several persons be true, that the ISOLATED ROCK ON THE NAIGUATA (THE ARM CHAIR). earthquakes which are felt frequently at Caracas follow this same course, we may conclude that the internal forces long ago opened for themselves sufficient outlet, and that it is clear, therefore, that the fear of volcanic eruption in this part of the chain is groundless. Various and singular were the forms of the isolated rocks ; sometimes they looked like walls carefully bound together ; at others they had the appearance of columns crowned with turbans, such as may be seen in Mussulman cemeteries, while some might have been taken for stately thrones; but one which attracted 56 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. iv. particular attention took the shape of a large half- moon perfectly sculptured. With great difficulty we descended into a little valley, the bottom of which in the winter season will no doubt be found covered with water. We surmised this from the great humidity of the ground, and the occurrence of plants which usually live in water. At the foot of this declivity, Terrero discovered a spacious cave into which the light of the mid-day sun pene trated gently. Round about this grotto grew in great ISOLATED ROCKS ON THE NAIGUAtX (CROWNED COLUMNS). profusion grasses which had adhering to their stalks a kind of gum somewhat disagreeable to the touch. Truly this spot, by virtue of the rich luxuriance of its vegetation, merited the name we gave it of The Garden of Naiguatd. After making innumerable turns, in consequence of the irregularity of the ground, we reached the crest of another peak, not arid and bare like the preceding one, but covered with verdure. The needle of the Naiguatd was now separated from us only by about two hundred Chap, iv.] THE FINAL ATTACK ON THE PEAK. 57 yards, and the rich vegetation which climbed up to its point made us forget the distance which divided it from the habitations of men. It was a garden rich with diverse colours, the freshness of the soil defying alike the rays of the sun and the changes of the atmosphere. Full of confidence at having at last come so close to the goal and the end of our troubles we soon recovered from our fatigue, and with renewed vigour made the final onslaught on the needle ; but the ascent was so steep that, in spite of the support ISOLATED ROCK ON THE NAIOUATX (THE ORESCENT). afforded us by the small trees, we found ourselves compelled to take a moment's rest, when, with remark able temperance, we drank a few drops of aguardi ente and water (homeopathically distributed), in order to quell the thirst which the fatigue of the ascent and the heat had so greatly increased. Like a group of warriors who had impetuously scaled a tower, intoxicated with glory, smiling upon death, and violently transported with enthusiasm, we hastily directed our steps towards the summit. CHAPTER V. THE ASCENT OF THE NAIGUATA. PART IV. THE SUMMIT. " We reach the summit, earth is in a dream Of misty seas, and islands strangely born.'' Ten minutes later the crest of that mountain, strange to the echo of the voice of man, resounded with the cry, " Hurrah for the Naiguata ! " This was the first time that a human foot had pressed the sharp summit of that proud peak, and it deserves to be recorded that the event took place on the 23d of April 1872, at 11. 41 a.m., when the barometer indicated the altitude to be nine thousand four hundred and thirty feet (9430) above the level of the sea,* showing a difference of 805 feet in height between it and the Silla of Caracas, the height of which we roughly calculated in our journey to its summit to be 8833 feet, but which in reality is only 8625 feet. * We did not attempt to take the height by boiling point, as we had no water ! Chap, v.] A MAGNIFICENT PANORAMA. 59 Seated on the rocks and stones crowning the top * we surveyed, aided by a powerful glass, the magni ficent panorama, boundless, endless, and sublime, which was unfolded to our sight. Fronting northwards the sea extended so far into the sky as to be visible at a seemingly greater height than our own, and the islands of Los Roques and Orchila, which we could dis tinguish with the naked eye, looked as though they were chained to the firmament. On the east the range of mountains descending suddenly from our feet, and sinking lower and lower mingled at last with the forests of Unare. To the south the valleys of Cara cas and of the Tuy were lost amidst the thousand hills that surrounded them, the latter looking like so many simple undulations as they extended in the south-east to the wooded ranges of Barlovento, and in the south-west to the mountain chains of Aragua. The horizon in the west was blocked by the Silla, which, always heretofore grand and bold viewed from what ever side, looked now somewhat dwarfed in height, and cheated of its fair proportions as never before had any one seen it. After having surveyed this immense ex panse we reluctantly turned our attention to the spot on which we stood. The needle of the Naiguata' owes the pointed form by which it is distinguished not only to its consider able height but also to the narrowness of its sharp peak. The point itself consists of about a dozen rugged rocks, the largest (on the top) and only well formed one being about ten feet long by six feet wide, * See Frontispiece, Vol. I. 60 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. v. and three to four feet high ; the platform shelving to the north-west is embraced within an area of 200 square feet. On the north and north-east the mountain goes down by " The Grand Precipice," 3000 feet, and then in a steep declivity forms a promontory to the sea ; in the direction of the east and south it is lost in dreadful cliffs and high craggy spurs ; at the south-west, from which direction we had ascended, it first inclines to a high miniature valley, backed by six lower peaks, and then gradually descending it ends in another, beyond which rises the Silla with its barren summit. The declivities of the cone on which we stood were covered by an abundant vegetation, but we looked in vain, however, for more than a few specimens of the flora we had seen growing lower down. Near one of the stones of the peak we gathered a number of plants, the greater part of them being new to all of us. I found here in abundance a fine ( bambusece or tall willow- fashioned grass, which turned out to be an undescribed species of Chusquea. The rays of the sun were now so strong as to call for our serious attention. The excessive heat dis tressed us considerably, and was attributable to the rarefaction of the air, a circumstance which did not tend to augment the number of our scientific and artistic memoranda. The thermometer showed 82° at noon. Wishing to leave a testimony of our prowess on the spot I got the guides to raise a cairn, upon which we fixed one of our climbing poles, with a handkerchief, Chap, v.] WE BEGIN THE DESCENT. 61 bearing my initials, fastened to it banner-wise. Further, we obtained Goering's powder-flask, and placed in it a paper bearing the signatures of the party. This record we deposited at the foot of the standard, protecting it by one of the stones. Harassed by a burning thirst which the heat had increased, and having but a small quantity of water remaining, we resolved to set about the descent, and at 12.30 we took our departure from the summit. My companions were all very tired, and I was com pletely exhausted. During the whole day I had taken but two or three ounces of Indian-corn bread, and absorbed by the object in view, like all those who allow themselves to be possessed by a passion, I had nearly forgotten myself. The object being gained, and the result obtained, the mind which under this tension had so far vigorously sustained the body in the performance of its work now fell back completely depressed. At times from absolute physical pros tration T almost fainted, but trusting to the kind ness of those whom I had led to the summit of the mountain not to abandon me at these critical moments, I asked them to make frequent halts until my limbs should be ready for fresh efforts. The very little liquid, a mixture of brandy and water, which we still had, was distributed by rations of drops. This meagre consolation at last failed, and the burning lips sought in vain for moisture. When the water was all exhausted, an almost pro found silence reigned among us : only the panting of labouring chests was to be heard ; few could speak, for 62 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. v. our tongues, dry, rough, and swollen, were unequal to their usual functions. Suddenly Bolet remembered that among his painting apparatus he carried a flask of water which served to wet his brushes ; he approached me full of Samaritan kindness and applied the liquid to my lips, but in spite of the frightful thirst which possessed me, I could not swallow it ; the flask had been filled some days before and turpentine had mixed with the water. From time to time as the travelling fogs passed close to us, eager lips opened to inhale the thin vapour. But the irritation of the thirst was terrible ; our temples throbbed, our footsteps became tottering and uncertain, one idea alone had hold of all our faculties, and that was to get back to the encampment where we had left some of the precious life- restoring fluid. The prudence of St. Berroteran saved us from losing our way, and perhaps also from death, since one of the pioneers, with that rustic simplicity natural to men in his condition, wishing to be thought a clever tactician and a knowing fellow, pretended to direct our return, and with singular persistence wanted to take us to the abyss. St. Berroteran pointed out to him the dangerous mistake he was making, and took the responsibility himself of guiding our downward track. Soon afterwards we lost our way in a fog which in creased the discomfort of our condition, and had it not fortunately cleared away we should have had to stay all night in this part of the mountain, which, without our blankets or rugs, would have been almost certain death. Chap, v.] DISCOVERY OF THE HIEROGLYPH. 63 The fog was much more dense later in the evening, and next day the whole mountain was enveloped in thick black clouds followed by copious showers. On the ridge we stopped to examine a stone of considerable dimensions ; on its surface was cut a »- i wmm mmm Hem THE WAY LOST ON THE RIDGE. symbol or hieroglyph, which we attributed to some aboriginal inhabitant of this section of America. It appeared to be a rude representation of a serpent try ing to bite its tail, or of a small boat with its prow suspended. Its size did not exceed one foot. We 64 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. hastened to copy this example of primitive art, which may have been a sign to show the direction of the sea, or to denote a date, an event, or a tomb. We descended two of the slopes very rapidly, some, in fact, preferring rather to roll than to guide their movements. Nevertheless it appeared to me as if we should never get to the encampment, such was the £ DISCOVERY OF THE HIEROGLYPH. anxiety I experienced. Desiring to hear somebody ex press the hope of a prompt arrival at the place where water — truly the water of life — was waiting for us, I asked one of the pioneers, on whose arm I frequently leant, if the place was yet far off. He answered me with that eternal " aqui mismo " (close here), which is equivalent in the mouths of the country people Chap. v.J DESPERATION. 65 to the most unpleasant irony, and the distressing meaning of which I had already learnt in my travels through the states of Barcelona and Aragua, and the valleys of the Tuy. At last, at 3.30 p.m., we perceived the encamp ment like an oasis before us, and quickening our steps arrived there speedily. " Water ! water ! " shouted all but myself, I could only utter a hoarse wordless sound ; while greedily, desperately, each seized — a decanter — a flask — a bottle — THE HIEROGLYPH. All .were empty ! " It has been used for the caraotas " (beans), com posedly observed one of these human tigers whom we had left under the form, of zealous guardians of our treasure-, and before whose voracity the wild beasts of the Naiguatd would have fled in terror. [I attribute the fact of not meeting a tiger on this expedition solely to the presence of these fellows. The brutes must have felt that they would be overmatched ! ] vol. 11. E 66 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. v. The most horrible ideas crossed my brain ; a red film covered my sight, my ears hummed, and my tongue vainly tried to translate into words my burn ing indignation — I fainted and fell senseless to the ground. Suddenly a cry of joy was uttered by some one who had found a vessel containing a little water. It was placed to my lips, and a delightful gulp calmed some what the fire which devoured me. My friends wished to leave the encampment imme diately, but feeling utterly incapable of resuming the march, I begged them to delay our departure for a brief interval, and made use of the respite granted to indulge in a renovating sleep, which so greatly restored me that I could, although with difficulty, set about the descent. On awakening I asked for a little water, and was told that it was all consumed — not even a drop remained. Seeing near me the remnants of a pan of the fatal caraotas, half- cooked, which the pioneers had left, I seized it with avidity, and, in spite of the black-looking nauseous appearance the semi-fluid compound' presented, I drained to the very dregs this dish of uncleanness, which proved, however, as pleasant to my palate as the most insinuating of beverages. The guides, ashamed of their conduct, agreed to start before us in search of water, with which they promised to meet us on the road, and, some time after their departure— about 4 p.m.— we broke up our camp and commenced a furious descent, reaching in half an hour La Trinchera, where the water-carriers met us. Chap, v.] ENDURANCE OF LISBOA. 67 Goering had the first draught, and the time that it took him to drink his share from the spout of the vessel seemed a century to the thirsty ones waiting. But this opportune help gave us vigour sufficient to proceed down the steep sides of the remaining declivi ties. Refreshed and cheerful, we hurried on. All tongues were now untied, and to prove the fact, some gave loud vent to their feelings, and made " the rocks and nodding groves rebellow to the roar." Our " enthusiasmatized " friend Lisboa — as one of the Venezuelans described him — an indefatigable traveller, and a man of rare and almost incredible endurance, had gone in advance of us on leaving the encampment. Being aware of this, the most serious apprehensions were felt lest one who could refrain for so long a time from drinking, as Lisboa had declared he was able to do, and of which he had given ample proof, should make up for this abstinence by exhaust ing at one draught the only well on the road, the one we were now approaching. Whether this fear was seriously entertained, or whether the exceedingly steep descent impelled us with greater force, remains an open question. We did not slide down the slope; — that is too mild a term — we rather rebounded from stone to stone and from rock to rock with amazing velocity and violence. A few minutes after 5 p.m. we arrived at La Fuente de la Vida, where the limpid current was still running as though to reprove our fears concern ing Lisboa. We left behind in its clear waters the masks, com posed of dust and the carbon of the charred trees, 68 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. v. which had made us look outlandish objects, — "as black as Vulcan in the smoke of war." Pursuing our road we arrived at La Soledad at 6 p.m., where we all took to our mules except Lisboa, who, on the pre vious day, had given orders for the return of his animal, and who proceeded on foot to his house at Sabana Grande. He arrived there earlier than we, thus giving additional evidence of his extraordinary fortitude. He may be said to be a true "chip of the old block," for his father on one occasion left the capital, made the ascent of the Silla, and returned to Caracas all on the same day. At that time he was discharging the duties of the Brazilian Legation in Venezuela, where his fine qualities are still remembered. Favoured by the light of a serene and beautiful evening we reached, about 7 p.m., Cerro Duarte, where the wife of Berroteran received us with the greatest possible satisfaction seeing that we had returned safe and sound. Here we partook of a humble but abun dant supper, richly seasoned by the kindness of our host and the sharpness of our appetites, for we were now like so many hungry bears. I had the mortification to notice that my servant no longer carried the plants which had been intrusted to him when we left the summit of the Naiguatd. Unable to understand their value or interest he had thrown them away near to our camp on the ridge, and it was only by threats of instant dismissal from my service that he could be induced to return in quest of them. I thought it a serious matter to lose by his stupid carelessness the specimens gathered with so Chap, v.] THE RETURN TO CARACAS. 69 much trouble. Amongst them were the only shoots we had brought of the new plant, and I was glad he succeeded afterwards in their recovery. We parted kindly from our excellent friend Berro teran and his worthy spouse, and enjoying the pleasure of being carried by other feet than our own wearied ones we arrived at Los Dos Caminos at 10 p.m. Shortly afterwards we reached the house of Lisboa at Sabana Grande, and found him already there resting from his labours. We felicitated him upon his superior strength and pluck, bade him good-bye, and with many regrets and good wishes went on our way to Caracas, where we arrived just as the cathedral clock struck the hour of midnight, congratulating ourselves upon the fact that — " Something attempted, something done, Had earned a night's repose." The following day I sent to Dr. Ernst the plants we had gathered, and it is to his friendly aid and scientific skill I am indebted for the satisfaction of knowing that, in spite of the hurried manner in which our expedition was necessarily conducted, science has gained something by it, as will be seen in the following chapter, containing, amongst other letters, one from Dr. Ernst giving a brief epitome of our botanic dis coveries. I have now fulfilled the objects with which I com menced this narrative of the ascent, preferring to be diffuse, and to note down even trifling occurrences and impressions, rather than to omit any detail which 70 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. v. might give a hint to the future traveller, and so con tribute to the advancement of knowledge, and to the well-being of the republic. Having shown that as it is possible to explore these elevated regions so it is for others to follow leisurely in our track, and collect fresh observations which may be useful to the inhabitants of this beautiful country, whose future prosperity and happiness are assured, if they are wise enough to take advantage of the peace which has lately been gained. God grant that on this occasion I may have succeeded as was my most fervent desire in conferring benefit upon Venezuela, a country in which I have received the most cordial hospitality, and amongst whose people I have spent some of the most pleasant days of my life. The dates of these adventures, the hardships of which I have recounted, will be marked as red-letter days in the memories of those who shared in their toils and excitements ; and, in after years, we shall all look back with unalloyed pleasure to the hour when, inspired by the love of enterprise, we scaled, for the first time in the annals of Venezuela, the hitherto impregnable Peak of Naiguatd. CHAPTER VI. AFTER THE ASCENT OF THE NAIGUATA. " And aiblins if it winna stand the test, Wink hard, and say the folks ha' done their best." — Burns. The ascent of the Naiguata' Avas a nine days' wonder, and the exploit furnished food for an amazing amount of gossip. Everybody seemed anxious to obtain par ticulars of our wanderings and our woes. On the 26th of April, La Opinion Nacional contained a short article, faithfully reproducing the substance of many conversations held that week in. Caracas :— " Of course sir, I believe it, since you tell me ; but — have you seen them ? " "All of them." "And they told you that they had ascended to the very peak of the Naiguata', ? " " Right to the very top, and they did not go any farther, because they found an end " " What, — to their provisions ? " "No sir; to the hill!" "But are you not joking? Have you seen the leader ? Have you talked with his companions, Lis boa, Bolet, Goering, Terrero, Vaamonde, and Hubel ? Are they safe and sound with all their limbs complete ? " THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. vi. " Yes ; but it was a case of ' neck or nothing' with them. They were very near saluting his tigerish majesty, the king of these virgin mountains." " You don't say so ? " " They encountered very recent signs that he had passed that way, and not only evidences of his exist ence, but of his good digestion. "Ten thousand feet above the sea, and with all these dangers, without roads, leaping over sharp- pointed rocks ; beyond all question they are the first mortals who have dared to place their feet upon the peak of this immense granite obelisk, whose height was respected even by Humboldt. "The terrible part of the affair was that they were near dying of thirst ! What do you think of them paying two guineas to the guides for a drink of water ?" " Astonishing ! What mountaineers these men are ! Ah ! there I see one of them approaching ; he will tell me all — I am dying to know more of this extraordi nary affair." Our friends urged us to publish a detailed account of the ascent, and their desire grew so strong that it found expression in the following communication, which appeared in La Opinion Nacional, from " Several Friends of Science : " — " Mr. James M. Spence, an English gentleman, who has been our guest above a year, has successfully accomplished the ascent of the Peak of Naiguata, the highest of the mountains which form the coast chain of Venezuela. " That this peak was thought to be inaccessible, and that no human foot had ever touched its summit, excited in him the wish to organize an expedition to climb to the top, to make such observa- Chap, vi.] " SEVERAL FRIENDS OF SCIENCE." 73 tions as might be possible in the short time that his expedition could devote to science, and to secure some sketches of the various views the landscape would present. "The expedition, composed of James M. Spence (as chief), Earn on Bolet and Anton Goering, both painters, and the latter also a naturalist and corresponding member of the Zoological Society of London, Leopoldo Terrero, Dr. Simon Vaamonde, surgeon, Henrique Lisboa, of the Brazilian Legation, and G. A. Hfibel, mining engineer, who were accompanied by Pio Berroteran, Miguel Eivero, Julian Bivero, Ambrosio Mesa, Meliton Cuervo, and four servants, altogether sixteen persons, left Caracas on the 21st of the present month of April, and returned from their excursion on the morning of the 24th inst. " Such an event deserves to be registered in our statistical annals. The novelty, the dangers and pains, which had to be faced before it could be accomplished, give it the interest belonging to extra ordinary events. The observations they were able to make add something to scientific knowledge, and enrich our geographical data by the notice of a new lakelet, and by dissipating the mystery reign ing around the highest point of the Cordillera of the Coast. " Several geographers and naturalists have entertained, before Mr. Spence, the thought of exploring the Peak of Naiguata, but whether from the difficulties arising from its form and structure, or whatever other circumstance, certain it is, that these intentions have never been realized. It is only to-day, more than three centuries since the Spanish conquest, that a daring son of Britain, accompanied by some other gentlemen, no less resolute (amongst them three sons of Caracas, two Germans, and a Brazilian), have succeeded in the hazardous enterprise of ascending the 10,000 feet of height which geographers allow to the Peak of Naiguata, at every step escap ing from dangers only to encounter others still greater in propor tion as they neared the summit. " We have seen some of the sketches made by the artists Bolet and Goering pointing to scenes totally different from those which generally meet our eye ; we have also seen the specimens of plants the excursionists brought back with them for more careful scientific examination. They show a distinct type of vegetation such as might be expected from the climate of so high a mountain. " We hope that Mr. Spence, who has given so many proofs of his regard for Venezuela, will present us, as soon as possible, with a 74 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. vi. relation of his expedition, which we shall esteem as an invaluable gift. " Caracas, April 29, 1872." If Ave had entertained any doubt as to the wide spread interest felt in our expedition, it would have been dissipated by the missive I received from the Minister of Public Works, a translation of which follows : — " United States of Venezuela, Office of Public Works, Caracas, May 4, 1872. "Sir, — This department is aware that in your desire to behold the beauties of our zone, you have undertaken two excursions, one to the Silla of Caracas, and the other to the Peak of Naiguata which every one had previously considered inaccessible, and incap able of ever being explored. " The undersigned, whilst congratulating you on the happy result of your undertaking, desires to make a request, which, from your consideration, and from the interest which in so many ways you have exhibited towards this republic, he has no doubt will be favour ably received. " Although the necessities of war absorb the attention of the Federal Executive, it has also occupied itself in those public under takings demanded by civilization ; as, for instance, statistics, a social and political agency indispensable in every well-ordered country. But this same war renders it impossible, at present, to perforin much work, and has compelled the direction of this branch to limit itself to the collection of the statistical data already exist ing, especially that relating to History and Geography, and amongst the documents of this kind, it would be a pleasure, not only to the undersigned, but to all the members of the Government, to include the history of the expeditions carried out by Mr. Spence, whose studies and observations would without doubt be highly interesting. — I have the honour to be, &c. " Martin J. Sanaveia, Minister of Public Works." This letter was printed in the organ of the Govern- Chap, vi.] HUBEL ON THE NAIGUATA ROCKS. 75 ment, La Opinion Nacional, on the 7th of May, and along with it my reply. Whilst drawing up the account referred to in the preceding despatch, with a view to rendering it as complete as possible, I requested from each of my comrades such notes as they were able to supply. Some of these were given verbally, but from Messrs. Hubel and Goering the following were received : — " Caracas, May 8, 1872. " Deae Sir, — Considering your kind request to give a full geologi cal and mineralogical report of our ascension of the Naiguata, which enterprise was so ably directed by you, and which was only through your untiring advance rendered a complete success, as none of us would have reached the summit, I beg to say : — " That the mountains of Venezuela, and particularly the Silla of Caracas, of which the Peak of Naiguata is a brother, have been thoroughly described by A. v. Humboldt and other eminent geolo gists, so that it would be difficult for me to add anything new. Be sides, the time we spent on this high mountain was too short, and the dry season too unfavourable, to allow of a faithful examination. " Taking it, therefore, as granted that the Naiguata is generally composed of metamorphic rocks, that is to say, gneiss (without hornblend) and mica schist, I call your attention to two peculi arities, the first of which is well stratified altered or primary lime stone, highly crystalline, and to be found in the western slope of the second peak ; the second are those objects by our guides named lagunas, which are nothing less than mosses of peat. This last discovery is of high scientific interest, as peat has as yet never been found at such a height above the level of the sea as 7000 feet, and, in this country, I believe peat has never been found before. " You will excuse this short notice, but I promise to complete it as soon as I come back from the second expedition, which is pro posed to be made under the guidance of the eminent Dr. Ernst in August.*— I remain, &c. &c. " G. A. Hubel." * This proposed expedition was not carried out, No second ascent to the summit of the Naiguata has taken place. 76 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. vi. "Puerto-Cabello, May 6, 1872. " My Deae Spence, — I received your note on the 4th inst., the morning of my arrival. The heat is here very great, and I feel it the more as I have been such a long time in Caracas. "It is impossible to give you a complete account of the animals of the Naiguata after having been there only a few hours, but it seems to me quite certain that this hill has no particular animal life. The same forms of animals which inhabit other considerable elevations of the coast range of Venezuela also inhabit and visit from time to time the Naiguata. Many species which we know, from equal heights in the interior of Venezuela, are not to be found on the hills of the coast. Begions of higher elevation in the interior, in the provinces of Merida, Tachira, and Trujillo, are of greater extension, and bear a much richer vegetation, and naturally more variety amongst the animals must exist. Between that Cordillera aud the high coast range of Venezuela, which together form a ramification of the great Cordillera of New Granada, exists a large region of a considerably lower elevation, and therefore, by this natural interruption, many plants and animals from the Cordilleras never reach the isolated Silla and the Naiguata. " The particular situation of these two hills — the Silla and the Naiguata — so near to the sea, and their exposure to the north winds, has an influence on the development of the vegetation, and gives a certain typical character to this part of the coast range, but the extension of the upper region is too little to produce a dis tinguished fauna. There may perhaps turn out to be a few insects not found in other parts of Venezuela. " After all, my dear Spence, the time was too short, and we have only been able to get a general impression of all that we saw there, but as before said, I consider that the Silla and the Naiguata have no particular fauna. The principal reason seems to me very clear. " After having finished my excursions I shall write something on the geographical distribution of quadrupeds in Venezuela. " A great many people have been here at my house, and all ask ing me to tell them of the great Naiguata expedition. — I remain, &c- &c. "A. Goeeing." The account of the ascent of the Naiguatd appeared Chap, vi.] NICANOR BOLET PERAZA. 77 in La Opinion Nacional, May 15th, 16th, 17th, and 1 8th ; its length preventing it from being all inserted on the same day. It was afterwards printed in the form of a pamphlet, as many were anxious to have it in a more permanent form than that of a newspaper article.""" I cannot claim the credit of its elegant NTCANOR BOLET PERAZA. Spanish, for my plain narrative was translated into espiritual Castilian by the kind offices of my good friend General Nicanor Bolet Peraza, who is distin guished alike as Soldier, Author, Artist, Dramatist, and Orator, armed at all points, and equally ready * For the title see Appendix Q, No. 217. 78 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. vi. with tongue, sword, and pen. It may not be irrele vant here to give a brief account of his career, as I have already mentioned his name several times in various incidents of my sojourn in Venezuela. Born in 1838, his father placed him Avhile still young, in the National College, but his strong distaste for mathematics led to his flight from that establish ment. He was, however, passionately fond of litera ture and the fine arts, and in conjunction with his brother Ramon, he set up in 1858 an illustrated periodical, El Oasis, but the military ardour of the time infected him, and he joined the army. This episode in his life included some hard experience as a prisoner of war. His prison gates opened in 1865, and again aided by his brother's artistic talent he estab lished El Museo Venezolano* the most interesting and cultivated of all the literary periodicals the republic has produced. It was given up, for its editor again took part in the war which was desolating the coun try. His pluck and energy subsequently procured for him the rank of General. He was also elected a representative of the people, and soon acquired the reputation of an orator by his brilliant and witty discourses. He also became a successful pleader at the bar, and at the present moment is the editor and proprietor of La Tribuna Liberal. He has himself summed up the results of his life thus : — " So I may count, as the total result remaining to me of my thirty-three years of study, political agitation, and * Appendix Q, No. 35. Chap, vi.] DEFEATED ATTEMPT ON THE PEAK. 79 marriage — some teeth less — the diploma of General, . . . and four sons." When the pamphlet was in type I sent three copies of it for the use of the Statistical Depart ment of the Government, and their receipt was thus acknowledged by the Minister of Public Works : — " Sie, — This department has received the three copies of the printed account of your expedition to the Peak of Naiguata, which you have been good enough to present as promised in your note of the 3d inst., in reply to a request made by me on behalf of the Government in a previous communication. " The undersigned has great pleasure in conveying to you his thanks for the gift you have made to the Government, and in which you have given a proof of a spirit of investigation in the field of physical science, and at the same time of your interest for Venezuela. " Martin J. Sanaveia." " Caracas, June 28, 1872." We afterwards heard of a party formed to attempt the ascent of the Naiguatd. Amongst its members were some experienced mountaineers, and it is said that they hoped to make the ascent before the notice of our climb was ready for the press. They went from the south-east side, and after encountering great diffi culties reached the foot of the final rise, when the remaining ascent (1000 to 1500 feet) impressed them so much with its dangers that they returned to town declaring that it was impossible that we could have gone any higher. The proofs of our ascent were so well known that the defeated expedition was only laughed at. The expedition to the Naiguata gave ample scope to the genius of the lamented Ramon Bolet, whose 80 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. vi. pencil revelled in the wild and picturesque scenes which lay around our toilsome path. My admiration of this self-taught artist, whose imagination was full of poetry, constantly expressing itself in harmonious lines and colours, was very great, and we were quickly good friends. His social qualities Avere at once genial and brilliant, and he seemed modestly unconscious of the existence of his artistic talent. Chiefly at my in stance he devoted a considerable amount of his time to the study and practice of art, in which I felt sure he would hereafter be famed. Since my return to England his Avork has received many warm en comiums from persons whose judgment is entitled to the highest respect. Several of his drawings were submitted to Mr. Ruskin, and the following extract from a letter will shoAv in what light the sketches of the talented amateur were regarded by the greatest of art critics :— " The drawings have come, and the silver paper has driven me wild ! but in spite of it, I've made out that the drawings are really good and full of feeling and power. The portrait ones very won derful indeed.* But Mr. Bolet must come home to study, he can make no further advance where he is — or at least, will be losing precious time. Very little teaching here will set him on firm ground." I have already mentioned that our botanical speci mens collected on the Naiguata' were sent for examina tion to Dr. A. Ernst. Our learned friend was a man of mark, a very fine example of that class of savants of whom Germany has been so prolific. Dr. Ernst, who * " The Peak Conquered" (Frontispiece to Vol. I.) is from one of these drawings. Chap, vi.] DR. A. ERNST. 81 is an able botanist, zoologist, microscopist, and ethno logist, has done much good work in various directions. To him is due the foundation of the Society of Physical Science of Caracas,"15' the labours of which promise to be of service to his adopted country. His researches into the flora of Caracas have made him the best ADOLF ERNST. living authority upon the subject. The result of his examination -of our plants he communicated to me in two letters, one in English, and the other in Spanish, but both of the same tenor and date. The English letter is as follows :— * La Sociedad de Ciencias Fisicas y Naturales de Caracas. VOL. II. F 82 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. vi. "Caracas May 6, 1872, "My Dear Friend, — I have the honour to give some slight notes upon the plants collected by you and your companions in the ascent of the Peak of Naiguata, which you were kind enough to send me for classification. " There are altogether thirty- two species, of which one is new to science ; it is a tall grass of the genera Chusquea, and as you were its discoverer, I have named it Chusquea Spencei. Another species, CHUSQUEA SPENCEI, FROM THE VERY SUMMIT OF THE PEAK OF NAIGUATA. Height of plant 6 to 10 feet. Sketch taken from a half-dried specimen. a Galium of the Relbunium family, is probably new also, but as the flowers are wanting it is impossible to decide the question. Amongst the other plants there are three which have not previously been found in our flora : Siphocampylus microstoma, Hook (Nueva Granada); Gnaphalium incanum, H.B.K. (Peru); and Potentilla Ehrenbergiana, Schlecht (mountains of Real del Monte, Mexico). The other species are found also on the Silla. The short time employed in the excursion did not permit you to make a very large collection, Chap, vi.] SER TUL UM NA1G UA TENSE. 83 but that which you have brought is more than sufficient to justify the hope that the high Peak of Naiguata is the habitat of many interesting species of our flora andina. " For further particulars, and for the exact description of the Chusquea Spencei, I refer you to an article which I am sending by this packet to the Editors of the Journal of Botany, of London, and which is entitled : ' Sertulum Naiguatense : Notes on a Small Collection of Alpine Plants from the Summit of Naiguatd in the Mountains of Cardcas.' * SIPHOCAMPYLUS MICROSTOMA. " Hoping that this may be enough for the present, and congratu lating you as much as I have to thank you for the comparatively highly satisfactory scientific result you obtained in so hasty an excursion, I remain, &c. .^lftJ^^ v" xf™;;7;::.»;'- J\>JH -c«re<*' Vii<.,Zk&2'v» Mine *-£a US Scale of EnglishMiles ¦ ? t Fulf ty Sampson Lotvt "Jferston &.C° London. Lith.ly R. Paterson, London. Chap, xi.] THE COPPER MINES OF AROA. 137 levels, without the necessity of either pumping or rais ing machinery being called into requisition. The late Lieutenant-Colonel Strange, F.E.S., in 187 1 estimated an output of 20,000 tons per annum, which in future years he thought could be greatly augmented. To aid in the development of the rich deposits a railway has been projected, and is now in course of construction to run from the mines to the port of Tucacas in the Caribbean Sea.* The length of the line will not ex- * " The Bolivar Railway Company, Limited, with a capital of ,£350,000, has been formed for the purpose of constructing a line of railway, about 62 miles in length, from the port of Tucacas in the Caribbean Sea to the celebrated copper mines of Aroa, reputed to be the most extensive and the richest in the world. The mineral wealth of these mines is authenticated by the personal inspection of competent persons, including John Hawkshaw, late president of the Institute of Civil Engineers. " The mines are situated about 1200 feet above the sea level ; the de posit, a vast lode of about 100 feet wide, is worked by horizontal adits, and without any pumping or other expensive mining machinery, hence the ore, which is of a quality yielding from 15 to 40 per cent, of copper, and in some cases of a much higher per centage, can be raised at very small outlay. The realisation of the wealth of these mines has hitherto been retarded by the expense of bringing the ores to a port of shipment — the only means of transport being by mules and boats, involving great delay, and an expenditure incompatible with the profits. " There are no engineering difficulties whatever throughout the entire line of the railway, which could be worked so as to yield profitable results on the copper ore tonnage alone, guaranteed as hereinafter men tioned by the New Quebrada Company. " The New Quebrada Company, Limited (the proprietors of the land through which the railway will run), have agreed to lease the lands required for the construction of the railway and its accessories to the railway company for 999 years, at a nominal rent oi £10. " As security for dividends upon the share capital of this company, the New Quebrada Company bind themselves to deliver a minimum quantity of twenty thousand tons of copper ore annually, for transport by the railway, for which they will pay to the company £4., 5s. per ton, or £85,000 per annum. " The following are additional sources of income which may be fairly 138 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. xi. ceed sixty-five miles, and the mining company guaran tees to the railway company a minimum goods traffic that will, it is anticipated, return about 10 per cent., Avhilst from other sources — timber, agricultural pro duce, and passengers — an additional 8 per cent, is calculated upon. The Government of the republic is turning its attention to immigration. With a fresh influx of strong arms there would be some prospect of culti vating the vast fields of Venezuela, which now lie un touched. The republic participates in the common wants of all neAv countries, viz., peace, capital, and labour, but these she could easily obtain were proper measures adopted for their acquisition. Capital would flow into the country in abundance with peace, and a stable government resolved upon raising the fallen credit of the republic abroad. Labour is equally important, but by far the most difficult to obtain. At first sight it seems strange that the tide of emigration from Europe should have turned in such a steady current to North America, whilst the more fertile lands of South America have received scarcely any of the surplus population of the old Avorld. Yet if Ave reflect that Great Britain and Ireland are the calculated on, viz. : — For all copper ore carried in excess of the above minimum of 20,000 tons, containing over 13 per cent, of copper, this company will be, paid £3, 12s. 6d. per ton, and for ore of a smaller per centage a rate of not less than £2 per ton. In addition to copper ore, other mineral deposits, including gold, silver, and coal, are said to exist on the property of the company, which produces also, in almost inexhaustible quantities, valuable hardwoods and timber, such as rose wood, Lignum-vitee, fustic, and mahogany." — Extracted from the Pro spectus of the Bolivar Railway Company. Chap, xi.] COLONIZATION. 139 sources whence the larger part of these emigrants are drawn, it ceases to be a matter of astonishment. The rustic or mechanic, from either of these quarters going to North America, arrives in a country Avhere his own language is spoken, and where the general structure of society is built up on the same traditions as those of the land he has left behind. The internal dissensions of the Latin republics have also helped to keep away the army of industry, whose soldiers were seeking, not for the laurel of glory, but for a place where they might sit under their oavii vine and fig- tree, no man making them afraid. Emigration to South America has rarely been attempted Avith suc cess, and in the case of Brazil and Paraguay has proved a disastrous failure, hence it will be difficult to induce Englishmen to go to Venezuela, notwithstand ing its vast natural advantages over other countries. The only method of obviating the difficulty is for the Government to institute a few small experimental colonies — English, French, German, or Italian. In the case of the establishment of an English colony, the service of an English gentleman practically acquainted with agriculture should be obtained, who should be authorized to select a small band of mechanics and agriculturists to settle upon land provided by the state, thus forming the first colony. The greatest care would be necessary in the choice of locality, which should combine fertility of soil, and salubrity of climate ; good roads being also indispensable. The colonists should be planted not very far from the capital of the country, and in a situation where, in HO THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. xi. addition to farms, saw-mills and other industrial establishments could be worked by water power. The success of the experiment, certified by the British Superintendent of the colony, would quickly induce other emigrants to follow. Eight or ten families suc cessfully established in the country would be sufficient to show the feasibility of Venezuelan immigration, and Avould be a complete answer to those who point to the failures of Brazil and Paraguay. Owing to the rapid succession of the crops in the republic the ex periment would not take long to decide.* In this way Venezuela may hope to attract the in dustrial force which is absolutely necessary to enable it to avail itself of the riches of its mountain slopes, broad valleys, and almost limitless plains. We in England did a noble thing in aiding the colo nies of South America to obtain their freedom from Spanish despotism, but had we, in addition to this, helped in the construction of railroads, erection of tele graphs, and other mighty instruments of progress, they Avould have been more blessed in receiving and Ave more profited in giving. Such investments would be far more beneficial to all concerned than the ordinary wretched foreign loans. My conviction of the truth of this principle led me to examine various plans which promised to be profitable if carried out. Amongst the railway projects which have been * In January 1874, a decree was passed by the Venezuelan Govern ment appointing a Director of Immigration who should see to the dis tribution and settlement of European immigrants as they arrived in the country. The experiment has been very successful ; during the twelve months ending April 30th, 1875, over S00° arrived in the republic. Chap, xi.] RAILWAYS. 141 broached is one from La Guayra to Caracas.* The distance from the seaport to the capital is only 23^ miles, but the road lies over the coast range of moun tains, and communication is therefore sIoav, and the transport of goods difficult. The grade of the road would vary from 0-93 to 3-50 per cent. The traffic is now very large, nearly all the coffee from the Central States being shipped from the port of La Guayra, which also forms the chief inlet of the republic for European productions. * This railway is now in process of construction. CHAPTER XII. DEPART DEE. " Ever in dreams thou comest. I may not trace In waking hours the presence of that spell Which holds me bound with such a winning grace — Farewell ! " — Anonymous. As the time for my departure drew nigh, I found myself in a continual bustle of excitement, making farewell visits and the necessary preparations for my voyage. Amongst the incidents of these latter days may be mentioned as a novel experience the lottery of the Sociedad de Beneficencia. With those benevolent man-traps, the English bazaars, I was of course familiar, but the annual raffle of the Charitable Society of Caracas was managed in a different fashion to them. The intention of having such a rifa was publicly announced, and the donations of the benevolent solicited. The gifts did not as a rule take the form of money, but of a miscellaneous collection of articles. The names of the donors were daily printed in the local papers, with the number of things they had contributed. As soon as 2000 objects had been obtained, the list was closed, and the gifts arranged for exhibition, but there was none of that chaffering or enthusiastic display of extortion which goes on at an English bazaar ; the only articles sold were Chap, xii.] CHARITABLE LOTTERIES. 143 lottery tickets in sealed envelopes, the price being fixed at a low figure in order to tempt persons to-buy a num ber of them, Avhich it was necessary to do if a prize were desired; for two thousand prize-tickets had been mixed up with ten times that number of blanks. Half a dozen, generally, of the most graceful, amiable, and beautiful of the ladies of the capital stood behind a counter, like tellers in a bank, disposing of tickets, whilst the prizes, artistically arranged, formed the background. The Fates usually maintain in Caracas, as elsewhere, their very spiteful natures in assigning to the so-called lucky winners the most inappropriate articles. On the 4th of August I called upon the President, but found him very unwell. We talked about emi gration from Europe to Venezuela, and about rail ways, which would be immense boons to the country. He inquired if I could not do something in England to promote the construction of the railroad from Caracas to the coast at Catea, which is intended to supersede the roadstead of La Guayra. After promis ing to do what I could in the matter,"5' some one in the company remarked that the fisheries of Barcelona would be a great source of profit to the state if they Avere properly developed. The President thought that fishing was an occupation for barbarous peoples. " The history of nations showed a succession of epochs in which they advance from fishing and hunting to * On my return to England I broached the subject to one of the leading railway engineers in London, who entered fully into the matter, and would doubtless have carried out the plan he proposed, had not news arrived from the republic that the Government itself had under taken to carry out the scheme. 144 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. xii. pastoral life, and thence to agriculture, but the crown ing glory of civilization is the epoch of manufac tures." "Venezuela," said he, addressing himself to me, " is noAv in the agricultural period, but I hope that she will soon enter upon the industrial era, the stage at which j^our country has long ago arrived. I trust that Ave may imitate those arts of peace, and public virtues, which have made England great and famous." The day following I received from the President an autograph letter, of which the following is a trans lation : — " Caracas, August 5, 1872. "My Esteemed Fbiend, — I return you many thanks for the map of the state of Apure by Count Codazzi.* " I wish you a happy voyage home, and a quick return, with good results in the projects for the material development of Venezuela. ' " From the Minister of Foreign Affairs you will receive the nomination of Venezuelan Consul in Manchester, and the diploma of the Busto del Libertador, Simon Bolivar, with which my country decorates those who serve her faithfully, and disinterestedly. " The state of my health, as you know, is not good, and will natu rally prevent me from accepting the invitation to the banquet with which you wish to honour me. — I am, &c, Guzman Blanco." At the same time I received from the Minister of Foreign Affairs the following gratifying letter (trans lation) : — " United States of Venezuela, Bureau of Foreign Affairs, Caracas, August 6, 1872. " Sir, — I have the pleasure of informing you that the President of the Kepublic has conferred upon you the distinction of the Order * This map, which I presented to the President, was similar in character to the one of the province of Guayana, mentioned at page 101. Chap, xii.] VISIT TO THE FOREIGN OFFICE. 145 of the Bust of the Liberator, Simon Bolivar, the illustrious son of Caracas, and Liberator of Venezuela, Colombia, Equador, Peru, and Bolivia ; a true hero and the founder of South American Independence. " This Order, the noblest that can be conferred in the republic, is given as a reward for great services and distinction of every class. " You have made yourself worthy of it by the repeated proofs you have given of interest for the progress of this country, and by the sympathy you have merited in it. — I have the pleasure of remaining, &c, Antonio L. Guzman." The map referred to in the President's letter was an original production of the geographer Codazzi, delineating the State of Apure in much greater detail than in that published in his atlas. The same day on Avhich I received the letter from Sefior A. L. Guzman I had a conference with this Minister on the general prospects of the country, and laid before him my views with great frankness : Vene zuela being exceptionally well situated, I opined, only needed that the Government should administer the laws with equal justice to all, maintain peace through out the land, and establish public confidence in the integrity of its financial administration, to insure its becoming the leading republic of South America. " Now that peace is established, with every probability of its duration, a most important thing to be done is to put Venezuela on a proper footing with her foreign creditors. No doubt the long civil war has ex hausted the public treasury, but if the President Avere to strike out a bold line of policy, based on the moral right of the situation, and at once commence paying interest to the foreign bondholders, the result Avould be vol. n. K 146 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. xii. an increase of confidence that would attract to the country the capital and industrial enterprise it so much requires. At the close of the American civil Avar there had been much talk of repudiation, a word unknown to the statesmen of Europe,* and there was no doubt that if such a policy had been carried out it would have proved most disastrous. I do not give the Americans credit for more honesty than the Venezuelans, but they have a clearer perception of the national injury which would result from breaking faith with their creditors." I strongly urged upon the Minister that it was absolutely essential to the well-being of the country that it should fulfil promptly, and to the very letter, all the engagements into which it had entered abroad. Sefior Guzman listened to the very plain-spoken exposition of my views with great attention, and pro mised to bring them under the notice of his colleagues in the cabinet. This was* my farewell visit to the Minister of Foreign Affairs. The banquet mentioned in the President's letter, and which I proposed to give in honour of himself and his cabinet, took place on the 8th of August. Instead of attempting to chronicle it myself, I shall simply translate one or two paragraphs from the report of it which appeared in La Opinion Nacional: — " Last night took place, at the Hotel Saint Amand, a splendid ban quet, given by Mr. Spence in honour of the President and his Cabinet. General Guzman was unable to be present on account of the state of * At the time this conversation took place Turkey and Spain had not attempted to repudiate their obligations. Chap, xii] THE LAST OF THE BANQUETS. 147 his health, but all his Ministers, with two exceptions, were present. The guests were General Jose' I. Pulido, Vice-President of the Re public ; Sefior Antonio L. Guzman, Minister of Foreign Affairs ; Dr. Diego B. Urbaneja, Minister of the Interior and Justice; Dr. Martin J. Sanavria, Minister of Public Works ; General Juan B. Garcia, Minister of War and Marine ; Dr. Diego B. Barrios, Secre tary of the Minister of Foreign Affairs ; Dr. Santiago Terrero de Atienza, Secretary of the Minister of Public Works ; General Lino Duarte Level, Secretary of the President of the Republic ; General Nicanor Bolet Peraza, Fausto Teodoro de Aldrey, Rafael Hernandez Gutierrez, Juan Rohl, General Juan F. Perez, John R. Leseur, H. L. Boulton, Carlos Hahn, F. J. Wallis, Dr. Modesto Urbaneja, General Leopoldo Terrero, Ramon Bolet, H. Gosewisch, Otto Becker, Dr. Ernst, H. Lisboa, Manuel Martel, Jacinto Gutierrez Coll, R. Terrero, and Alexander Boyer, jun.* " The saloon in which the banquet took place was adorned with luxury and singular good taste. With the exception of the banners of England and Venezuela, which in the most conspicuous part of the room were interlaced in a trophied symbol, all the ornaments were composed of the choicest flowers of our gardens. It was a floral feast, whose delicious perfume filled the air, and whose precious colours enchanted the sight by the artistic combinations of their varied shades. " The host in dedicating the banquet to General Guzman Blanco and his worthy Ministry, mingled the most flattering expressions about the hospitality of the country, with hopes of a continu- ence of the prosperity which it is now achieving, under the enlight ened and progressive administration of its present Chief-Magistrate. Other speeches were made which are worthy of being reproduced literally, but on this occasion, as on others, all were surpassed by the robust and brilliant oratory of the veteran Sefior Antonio Leocadio Guzman. * I may here say that this list contains the names of gentlemen whose hospitality and courtesy, which I had many opportunities of proving, were conspicuous, and I feel sure that any stranger visiting Venezuela, and having the privilege of becoming acquainted with any one of them, will corroborate my testimony. . . 148 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [Chap. " Some strangers spoke upon Venezuela and praised the virtues of its people. Dr. Ernst, in phrases full of poetical power, attested to the high gifts of General Guzman Blanco, and painted in graphic terms his character and the great things which the country might hope from his enlightened administration." The day following the banquet (August 9, 1872) MY LAST LOOK AT VENEZUELA. was my last in Caracas and also in the republic. Friends and acquaintances came trooping in from all quarters to my rooms at the hotel to say fareAvell ; this and my preparations for the voyage made me exceed ingly busy, and very grateful for the kind aid of Bolet and Terrero. It Avas not until mid-day that Chap, xii.] "FAREWELL." 149 I was able to take my departure. Several carriages accompanied me to C&tea, Avhere I bade good-bye to many friends, amongst them Mr. Leseur, Avhose partner, Mr. Gosewisch, came with me to England. General Nicanor Bolet Peraza, his brother Ramon, and some others, came on as far as La Guayra, Avhere — Avith my servant, Miguel Gonzales, a Zulian, who had been very attentive to me at the hotel dur ing my illnesses — I embarked at 4 p.m. The little mail-schooner " Guayrefla," in Avhich I had taken a passage, set sail for St. Thomas immediately after. Venezuela, where I had landed eighteen months before, a perfect stranger, and where I had found many true friends, gradually receded from, my sight. The Naiguata became the only object visible, and long I gazed upon it, till at last, as night drew on, its tower ing peak sank below the horizon, and sea and sky alone remained. I had found the republic in the throes of civil war, when I left it was at peace. The remem brance of this sojourn in a life of travel and adventure will never be forgotten. Ever bright and fair in my memory will be the recollection of the lofty moun tains, the blooming valleys, the glittering cascades, the luxuriant foliage, and, above all, the warm hearts of Venezuela. APPENDIX. ANCIENT HISTORY OF VENEZUELA. " Man's inhumanity to man, Makes countless thousands mourn." — Burns. Cristoval Colon on the third of his adventurous voyages was detained by a calm between Trinidad and the coast, and dis embarking on the ist of August 1498 at the mouth of the Drago, explored the country to the point of Araya, and so earned the immortal glory of being the first European who had seen the continent of America. The following year the expedition under command of Alonso de Ojeda (which had for its object to continue and extend the discoveries of the great Admiral) came on the 24th of August to the lake and coast of Maracaybo. Finding the natives living in. huts built on piles in the lake the conquistadores gave the name of Venezuela to the district. "Little Venice" is now a country larger than half-a-dozen European kingdoms. In the same year Cristoval Guerra's expedition discovered the coasts of Paria and Cumanagota (now Nueva Barcelona), the isles of Margarita and Cubagua, and went as far as the coast of Coro, when he determined to return to Spain on account of the ferocity of the natives of the districts where pearls were to be found, the obtaining of which was the sole object of his voyage. Pedro Alonzo Mfio, who was associated with this enterprise, has the honour of having been the first to make a mercantile transac tion with the Indians of Venezuela. Those who preceded this (13th of February 1500), like many who followed, were simply 152 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. A. pillagers. Glass beads and bits of metal were sufficient to obtain from the Indians pearls and every variety of food which the country produced. The Indians, says Bartolome de Las Casas, were very content, thinking that they had cheated the Christians ; what the Christians thought is not recorded. The most uncultivated and least civilized of the Indian tribes were those which inhabited Venezuela. Some symbolical designs traced on the granite rocks of the lower Orinqco, on the banks of the Casiquiare, and between the fountains of the Esequibo and of the river Brauco, are the only relics of the aboriginal civilization, and these may with more reason be attributed to a vanished race than to the wandering hordes who inhabited the district when it was first invaded by the Spanish conquistadores. In 1502 Francisco Yanes y Pinzon crossed the equator and dis covered Brazil, and afterwards going between west and n'orth came to the equator again, where he noticed that the sea was composed of fresh water, and seeking the cause discovered the vast river of the Amazons which enters the ocean by a mouth of more than thirty leagues in extent. The sailors met with hospi table treatment which they repaid by taking into captivity thirty- six persons. This journey extended to 600 leagues, which, joined to the 400 explored by other navigators, gave full assurance that the New World was a true continent. Six years later was the voyage of Alonso de Ojeda, one object of which was to colonize the province of Coquibacoa, an attempt which proved unsuccessful. Succeeding efforts in this direction were weak in the extreme, for Venezuela was not rich in those mines of gold and silver which alone appeared to have interest for European avarice. In 1 5 1 2 a Dominican mission was founded in Cumana, and with good results. The hardships to which the Indians were subject in Hispafiola led to their extinction so rapidly that a slave trade sprang up which gave more than forty thousand captives to the oppression and cruelty which had destroyed their brethren. One of the ships engaged in this infernal traffic came to the coast of Cumana, and after some days of mutually pleasant intercourse the Spaniards invited the cazique and his family (about sixteen persons in all) to come on board the ship. No sooner had they got their prey than they set sail for the island of Santo Domingo, where the cazique and his party were sold for slaves. The vassals thinking that the missionaries had been accomplices in the treachery determined to take revenge. The poor Dominicans App. A.] ANCIENT HISTORY OF VENEZUELA. 153 obtained a respite, during which they wrote to the chiefs of their order to use all the influence they could to obtain justice in the matter. They were so far successful that the prey was taken from the pirates and divided among the judges ! The Indians remained in slavery, and the missionaries paid with their lives the cruelty and injustice of their countrymen. The endeavours of Las Casas, the celebrated apostle of the Indians, to ameliorate the condition of the natives were unavailing, and his efforts to induce European labourers to settle had little success. The cruelties and oppressions of the conquistadores some times goaded the Indians to bloody reprisals, which were made the pretext of further tyranny. The Emperor Carlos V. issued a de cree authorising the Spaniards to enslave without exception all the natives opposing the conquest. The coasts of Venezuela were in consequence infested with pirates, and these carried fire and death among the Indians. The outrages were so great that the Audiencia of Santo Domingo sent Juan de Ampiies to regulate affairs and see that the privileges of the conquistadores were not shared by obscurer wretches. Ampiies founded in 1527 the city of Santa Ana de Coro, and by fair treatment of the natives secured their friendship, and realized in some degree the benevolent plan of Las Casas. In this same year Carlos V. made over to the Welsares of Augsburg the entire province of Venezuela, from Cabo de La Vela to Maracapana, in payment of the loans he had con tracted with them. The grant was accompanied by the con dition that they should populate the country and build fortresses. They were empowered to appoint a governor (with the title of Adelantado), and to reduce to slavery all the Indians who refused obedience. Ambrosio de Alfitiger was the first governor under this arrangement, and well he carried out his instructions, by immediately entering upon a course of cruelty and oppression. His band of soldiers scoured the country in search of gold, slaves, and pearls. His outrages and excessses were infamous. His course at every step was attended with robbery, murder, and incendiarism. Those whom he could not enslave he slew, that which he could not pillage he burnt. After three years of murder and bloodshed Alfinger was wounded by the Indians, and died in three days. The expedition returned to Coro in 1532. The second governor, Jorge Spira, less cruel perhaps than Alfinger, arrived at Coro in 1534, and went on a progress of 154 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. A. conquest with an army of 400, of whom, in 1539, only ninety returned, the remainder having perished either in conflicts with the Indians or from the hardships of the journey. Don Eodrigo de las Bastides, first Bishop of Coro, and governor ad interim, sent out a band of soldiers in search of the fabulous El Dorado. In the narratives of the Indians there were continual references to a distant land where gold abounded in extravagant prodigality. Here dwelt a king or priest whose body was gilded each morning with powdered gold by means of an odoriferous resin, which was washed off at night ! This fruitless expedition of Urre, as the Spaniards call Philip von Huten, was marked by the same want of principle and inhumanity towards the Indians that had marked those of Alfinger and Spira. The eighteen years during which Venezuela was under the rule of the Welsares was a period of disaster for that unhappy country. The hatred against the company became intense, the land was becoming depopulated, and Coro was a mere slave- market. Las Casas gave eloquent expression to the general indig nation, and at last Carlos V. annulled the grant and sent out as governor of the province Licenciado Juan Perez de Tolosa. Under his rule things were managed better, yet even he sent out. military expeditions which had no other results than the destruction of parts of the country. Tolosa died whilst on his way back to Spain, on furlough, in 1548. His delegate, Juan Villegas, succeeded to power, though not without some disputes with the local authorities. He set his face more firmly than his predecessor against marauding expeditions, and encouraged the foundation of towns. , A gold mine was discovered in the valley of Nirgua, and led to the foundation, in 1552, of the city of Barquisimeto or Nueva Segovia, but the opposition with which the founders were harassed by the Indians caused its abandonment. He succeeded better in founding the city of Nueva Valencia, which stands in the same beautiful fertile valley where in 1555 Alonso Dias planted its first stone. The valley of Maya had long attracted the attention of the Spaniards, but the Caracas people, although divided into many tribes and nations, were united in the defence of their independence, and were unconquered. Francisco Faxardo, who first attempted to place a Spanish colony in this valley, had everything in his favour. He himself was the son of a Caraca, and had married the niece of the chief of one of the principal tribes : moreover, App. A.] ANCIENT HISTORY OF VENEZUELA. 155 he spoke several of the Indian dialects. He went with several servants, and was very cordially received by the relations of his mother, especially by his uncle Naiguata, whose name appears to have been given to the mountain which towers above the valley of Caracas. On a second expedition he was accompanied by his mother, and had obtained full powers from the Spanish autho rities to treat with the Indians. This was enough to excite the suspicion and enmity of the natives. As soon as they found that Faxardo was an instrument of the aggrandizing policy of the invader, the common ties of blood and language were insufficient for his protection ; they rose against him, poisoned the waters, cut off his supply of provisions, and harassed him in every way until he was glad to escape to the shore in the darkness of night and sail back to Margarita. Soon after the foundation of Valencia, Villacinda (who followed Villegas) died in Barquisimeto, and the subordinate magistrates who remained in the full exercise of their powers were anxious to make this interregnum memorable by some action useful to the Spanish power. This desire turned atten tion to the subjugation of the Cuicas, who were believed to inhabit the fertile regions which runs from Carora by the north, south- to the Sierras of Merida. Diego Garcia de Parades, who was charged with this enterprise, went from Tocuyo with seventy men, twelve horses, and a good number of Yanacona Indians, traversed the entire land of the Cuicas, who willingly allowed him to choose whatever land he desired for his colony, and accordingly, in 1556, he commenced the building of a town which he called Trujillo. It can scarcely be said to have reached the dignity of a town, for the natives, exasperated by the misconduct of the Spaniards during a tem porary absence of Parades, opposed the colonists so violently that they returned to Tocuyo. Francisco Euiz was appointed to succeed Parades and headed an expedition to subdue the Cuicas. Soon after leaving the Valle de Bocon6 he encountered Juan Maldonado, in command of a party bent upon the same errand, who had come from the newly-founded city of Merida. Disputes ^ensued that led to the rebuilding of Trujillo, which Ruiz, perhaps to pique the real founder, re-named Miravel. It did not long retain the name, for when the successor of Villacinda came, he re stored Parades, who, however, experienced further troubles which at last led him to abandon Trujillo. The situation of the Spanish 15C THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. A. colony was several times changed, but in 1570 the wandering town came to anchor at last and began to make rapid advances in prosperity, so that it became one of the most prosperous in South America. The fame of its wealth and prosperity led to its destruction, for a century later Grammont the pirate sacked the place, killed or put to flight its inhabitants, and burnt to ashes its finest buildings. Faxardo made a third attempt at conquering the Caracas Indians, and armed with full power from Collado, the new gover nor, he left Margarita. He landed at Chuspa early in 1560, and, thanks chiefly to his friendship with Guaimacuare, a cazique, he traversed the valley of Maya, but rather as friend than conqueror. Continuing his route to the valleys of Aragua he met with some opposition, but arranged a treaty with his opponents. He founded a town near the bay of Caravalleda which he named Collado, in honour of the Governor, and continued his search in the valley of San Francisco for a gold mine of which he had received some intelligence. His success in discovering this mine was the cause of his subsequent misfortunes. Collado revoked the grant which had been made to Faxardo, but this injustice was of little profit, for those who were sent to supplant him, were unable to protect themselves against the incursions of the Indians, and at last the mine was abandoned, and is only memorable for the fact that the mining village occupied the site where Caracas now stands. Faxardo was in the meantime engaged elsewhere contending against the atrocities committed by the tyrant Aguirre. Finding little success in Caravalleda, he returned to Margarita, but again sailed to the mainland to renew his attempt. This time, to avoid encounters with his old Indian enemies, he resolved to disembark near Cumana, which was under the rule of Alonso C6bos, a declared enemy of his, but who invited him in a friendly manner to his house. C6bos deserves a special niche of infamy, for when he had Faxardo secure in his hold, in defiance alike of hospitality and humanity, he had him hanged, and helped with his own hands in the murder of his guest. The advantages which Caracas offered were too great for the non-success of Faxardo to delay its conquest long. Accordingly, under the governorship of Ponce de Leon, Diego Losada, in 1567, set out from Tocuyo, and proceeded to Nirgua, where he left the expedition for a time in charge of Juan Maldonado, and turned to Borburata in search of Juan de Salas, who had promised App. A.] ANCIENT HISTORY OF VENEZUELA. 157 to join him with a hundred Indians from Margarita. In this manner Losada wasted fifteen days without having met Salas. His troops consisted of 150 Spaniards and 800 Indians, and were well, provided with animals destined for their food. They marched to the rising ground of Teperayma without encountering a single native with whom to speak. To this solitude and silence they gave the name of the Valle de Miedo (Valley of Fear). The silence did not last long, for soon the invaders heard the mountain echoes ring with the shrill notes of the conchas with which the Indians sounded the alarm. The noise frightened the animals upon which the Spaniards were depending for sustenance, and they fled in all directions. When the men went to try to recover them they were attacked with great fury by the Indians. To have followed the natives to their mountain fastnesses would have been a fruitless attempt. The Spaniards encamped, but hunger drove some of them forth in an endeavour to get some birds which were visible at a short distance. These had been placed there by the Indians to entrap their enemies into an ambuscade. In a fight which ensued the victory was with the Spaniards, though it cost them the life of Francisco Marquez. But still greater perils were in store, for the invaders now approached the gorges of Lagunetas, where the Arbacos Indians were known to be not only brave and warlike but still full of that resentment and hatred which had caused the' non- success of former expeditions. Losada marched so quickly that it was not until he had reached the valley of San Pedro that the Indians met him in battle. Here he encountered the hitherto unconquered Guacaipuro, who was at the head of some 8000 men. The Indians suffered a most sanguinary defeat ; whilst the little army of Losada was comparatively uninjured, although, for a time, the issue of the battle seemed doubtful. ' Losada pushed on for some time, and tried to get on a friendly footing with the natives, but he found them deaf to his charm ing. Maldonado with eighty men was surrounded by some 10,000 Indians, and would certainly have perished if Losada had not come to his aid. The resistance made by the natives convinced the conqueror that he must have some town which might serve for a base of operations or to cover a retreat, and with this view he founded in the valley of San Franciscp the city of Santiago de Leon de Caracas, the future capital of Venezuela. 158 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. A. This was towards the end of the year 1567. The Spanish colonizers seem to have made small work of founding towns and cities. " As soon as the site of a city had been chosen and a gallows erected there, with the formalities which the law required, the place was called a city, and a municipality appointed before a single hut was erected." * The young town had much to fear from the deadly enmity of Guacaipuro, who endeavoured to form a league amongst the Indian chiefs against the power of the Spaniards, and in 1568 succeeded in this design. Chance revealed to a foraging party of Losada's the presence of large troops of armed Indians. Finding that their plans were discovered some, of the natives withdrew, but Guacaipuro led the rest to the attack of Caracas. The Indians were defeated, and their heroic chief, whose crime was that of loving liberty too well, was slain in the fight by Francisco Infante, one of the first alcaldes of Caracas. The victory was decisive, and insured the security of the rising town. It made rapid progress in importance. The city of Caravalleda was rebuilt and served for a commercial port in place of Borburata, which had been abandoned in conse quence of the ravages committed by the buccaneers. The Spaniards from 1531, and for twenty years subsequently, at tempted to conquer the eastern part of the province, which from Maracapana formed the jurisdiction of Cumana. The discovery of lands watered by the Orinoco, and the searches for El Dorado (although unsuccessful and- productive of great suffering and evil at the time) constantly enlarged the boun daries of the geographical knowledge of the conquerors, and brought to light those wide extended table-lands, which, under the name of the Llanos, now form an especial feature in the prosperity of Venezuela. Don Diego de Ordaz was the first to explore the Orinoco, and after losing many men by sickness and in fights with the. Indians he reached Uriaparo, and from thence proceeded to Caroan, always hearing from the natives of a land, still further off, blessed with in numerable riches: Avarice, and dislike to the idea that the Indians should suppose him afraid to push his discoveries in the direc tion they had indicated, induced him to send Juan Gonzalez, who returned in a short time after having discovered Guayana, where he had been very well received by the aborigines. The gold-fever led Ordaz to ascend the river, and though in a constant * Southey's Expedition of Orsua, 1821. App. A.] ANCIENT HISTORY OF VENEZUELA. 159 struggle with currents, insects, sickness, hunger, and the opposi tion of the natives, he persevered in his route. Having proceeded as far as the mouth of the river Meta, he returned to Uriaparo and thence back to Cumana. The only reward he received for his laborious and dangerous expedition was to be despoiled of his conquest by Don Antonio Sedeno and Don Pedro Ortiz Mati- enzo, who had obtained an order to send him back to Spain. On this ill-fated voyage he is said to have been poisoned by Matienzo, who had him in charge. Ger6nimo Ortal obtained authority to continue the conquest of Nueva Andalucia, and in 1535 committed the charge of the ex pedition to Alonzo de Herrera, who explored the Orinoco, follow ing the route of Ordaz. The adventurers would have perished from hunger but for the gratitude of a cazique of Cabritu, who in return for their restoration to him of a son whom they had rescued from the Caribes, furnished them with provisions for several days. They now pushed along the Rio Meta, but in place of a land rich and civilized, full of gold and pearls, which they had hoped to find, they encountered only tribes of warlike Indians who harassed them at every step. In one of the many encounters Herrera met his death-wound, and Don Alvario de Ordaz (nephew of the unfortunate Don Diego) thought it most prudent to abandon the enterprise, and returned to Cubagua more than half-starved, and in a state of extreme misery. The expedition under Sedeno was equally fruitless. The wild search for El Dorado was the origin of all these enterprises ; to this fable is due all the inland dis coveries of the Spaniards. Yet the repeated failures were inef fectual to repress the endeavours of the conquistadores to reach the land of gold. In 1568 Don Pedro Malaver de Silva received powers to conquer Omagua and El Dorado for an extent of 300 leagues ; whilst Don Diego Fernandez de Cerpa had a similar grant of the country from Boca del Drago to the confines of Silva's territory. Silva's expedition was a complete failure ; many deserted, the forces broke up, and Silva returned to Spain, whence, in 1574, he again led a party of conquistadores, who landed on the coast between the Orinoco and the Amazon. The entire expedition, including two daughters of Silva, were de stroyed, some perishing by disease, others by the hands of the Caribes. The only exception was Juan Martin de Albujar, who after ten years' captivity amongst the Indians managed, through 160 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. A. many dangers and hardships, to reach Margarita in a canoe. The fate of Cerpa was equally hard. He landed in 1569 on a part of the coast held by the Cumanagotos, whom the past bad faith of the Spaniards had converted into bitter enemies. He founded the city of Santiago de los Caballeros, but the Cumanagotos uniting with the Chaymas were able to bring a force of about 10,000 men against the 400 Spaniards, and in the battle which followed Cerpa was killed, his party utterly routed, and the ciudad destroyed soon after. The expedition of Ursua forms one of the most romantic episodes in the history of Spanish America. Pedro de Ursua was a young and chivalrous knight, and took with him Dona Inez de Atienza, " with the intention of marrying her, as she was a spirited and beautiful woman." The expedition set out from Lima, and numbered about 300 men, many of them turbulent spirits who had been concerned in the various troubles and rebel lions in Peru. It has been thought that the Viceroy of Peru, although sharing the common belief as to the rich land of El Dorado and anxious for its discovery, was probably still more anxious to get rid of these unruly soldiers. The little army made their way to the river Orellana (Amazon), but the dangers and sufferings to which they were exposed raised a dangerous spirit of discontent. This led to a plot, in accordance with which Ursua was attacked and murdered by a band of mutineers, who also killed Vargas, his lieutenant-general. They then appointed Don Fernando de Guzman commander of the expedition, whilst Lope de Aguirre, who had been the soul of the conspiracy, re ceived the appointment of Maestre del Carnpo. The most particular friends of Ursua were slain, and those who remained were convinced of the uselessness of any attempt to alter the new state of things. Guzman had a document drawn up in which all that could be said against Ursua was set down for the justi fication of those who had slain him. This was to be signed by all the expedition. When it came to the turn of the " maestre del campo," he signed his name " Lope de Aguirre, the traitor." After some more quarrels and murders, the desperados formally renounced their allegiance to the King of Spain, and hailed their general by the lofty title of Don Fernando de Guzman, by the grace of God, Prince of Tierra-firme and of Peru. They con structed two brigantines, in which, and in canoes, they purposed to make for Margarita. This brought the time to about April App. A.] ANCIENT HISTORY OF VENEZUELA. 161 1561, and the new-made prince was not without some compunc tions for the past and apprehensions for the future, as it became increasingly manifest that the real master was Lope de Aguirre, whose force of character and utter want of scruples gave him a great advantage over the weak puppet-king whom he had set up. Salduendo, the captain of Don Fernando's guard, was making arrangements for the lodging of Dona Inez and her mestiza com panion in the brigantine, but Aguirre would not allow the mat tresses intended for their use to be placed on board. Irritated at this he used some expressions which, being repeated to Lope, filled his dark soul with fury, and with a band of his followers he attacked Salduendo, and murdered him in the presence of " Prince " Fernando, who vainly endeavoured to save him. Next he sent two of his men to kill Dona Inez, which they did, muti lating the body " in such a barbarous manner, that after her death even the most hardened men in the camp, at sight of the mangled victim, were quite broken-hearted, for this was the most cruel act that had yet been perpetrated." Friends of Don Fernando had previously resolved to kill Aguirre, but the kingling had become so listless and timid that they joined the opposite party, and revealed the project to him. This decided the traitor, and Don Fernando and some friends of his were slain by Aguirre's party. The place where this bloody deed was done received the name of the Village of the Butchery. Aguirre now assumed the chief command, and ordered that henceforward no one should speak privately with his comrades upon pain of death. As the expedition pursued its way down the river, it encountered many difficulties. On the slightest pre tence Aguirre would have persons put to death who were in any decree obnoxious to him. The bloodthirsty wretch seems to have had a homicidal mania, and was ever on the look-out for victims. This strange army sailed into the Sea of the North on the ist of .July 1561. The traitors made for the Island of Margarita; Aguirre, before landing, strangling two of his men, as he was afraid they would denounce him to the authorities. One of his vessels by stress of weather had been, driven into another port. Aguirre sent a messenger to apprise those on board where to join him. This messenger had also a com mission to strangle another person who had excited the tyrant's fears. The governor came to meet the strangers, who de- VOL. II. L 162 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. A. clared themselves only in want of provisions, which they were willing to pay for. Aguirre obtained permission for his " soldiers of Peru " to perform some military manoeuvres before the gover nor. The only military manoeuvre was to take the party of Mar- garitans prisoners ! He then proceeded to the city, robbed the royal treasury, and commenced a mad rule which earned for him the name by which he is best remembered — El Tirano. The rulers of the city were taken prisoners ; the houses of the citizens were sacked, their lands wasted, and their wives and daughters violated. Aguirre killed several more of his followers, amongst them a leader named Turriaga, whom he afterwards buried with great funeral pomp. He also caused the governor and his companions, the alcalde and the alguazil, to be murdered ; after which, although it was now midnight, the traitors were summoned by "El Tirano" to attend in the room where the bodies had been placed. Having raised the mats which covered the bleeding corpses, Aguirre made an oration to his men, in which, after recounting the various crimes which they had committed, he bade them not deceive themselves with any hope of pardon. Meanwhile the news of these strange outrages had spread to the mainland, where the liveliest apprehensions were felt lest this beast of prey should throw himself upon their coasts. The " Provincial " sailed to Margarita, and having come within sight of Lope and his men, and exchanged letters with him, sailed back again. His barbarities went on without intermission. To-day it was an old man, to-morrow a friar. Neither age nor sex were any protection against his bloody orders. His " maestre del campo " was brutally murdered on a charge of conspiring against Aguirre, who bitterly reproached Llamoso (one of the murderers of Dona Inez) with ingratitude, for having taken part with Martin Perez. Llamoso protested his fidelity, and to prove it " he rushed upon the body of Martin Perez, which was almost cut to pieces, and before those who were present, he threw himself upon it, shouting — '" ' Curse this traitor, who wished to commit so great a crime ! I will drink his blood ! ' and, putting his mouth over the wounds in the head, with more than demoniacal rage he began to suck the blood and brains that issued from them, and swallowed what he sucked, as if he were a famished dog." Aguirre now embarked his men, reaching the shore by a ladder App. A] ANCIENT HISTORY OF VENEZUELA. 163 from an opening high up in. the fortress, to avoid the arrows of a party headed by Faxardo, who had come to see what they could do against the traitors. Aguirre murdered his admiral as a com mencement of the voyage. The port of Borburata was reached on the 7th of September. Soon after he burnt his vessels to cut off all hope of escape by sea for his desperate followers. The wretches committed all kinds of excesses, and marched towards Valencia, and from thence to Barquisimeto, where the forces of the colony had been hastily gathered together. In the then infant state of the colony — it was only a tiny contingent that each settlement couldfurnish, so that — the handful of desperadoes led by Aguirre were really to them a formidable enemy. When Don Diego Garcia de Paredes went out to reconnoitre the camp of the traitor he had with him fifteen men ; and his general, who remained in Barquisimeto, had an army of seventy men, armed with two arquebuses, one of them without a lock. Paredes came within sight of Aguirre, but thought it best to retire, leaving letters of pardon addressed to the traitor and his men, who were exhorted to return to their allegiance. He managed, however, to detach four horses loaded with ammunition, which was very welcome to the Royalists. Pablo Collado, the governor, had retired to Tocuyo, and was not at all anxious to take an active part in the campaign against " El Tirano," but Don Pedro Bravo, who had brought more succours from Merida, urged him to be present in the royal camp that he might be ready to treat with the traitors. Bravo and his men appear to have had some amusement from the cau tiousness of the governor, which was greatly increased when on their march they met a messenger from Lope to Collado, who, while shaking with fear, expressed his sorrow that he was not permitted to settle the matter by a single combat with the tyrant. Things were now approaching their end. Lope de Aguirre had entrenched himself, but his fears, well grounded, of desertions made a long resistance impolitic. A series of skirmishes ensued, the advantages being chiefly on the king's side. Lope now proposed to strangle all the unwilling and the sick amongst his followers, but was dissuaded from this project. On the 27th October 1561 he disarmed the greater part of his soldiers, upon which they said that he was taking them to be slaughtered, and were so determined in their attitude that he 164 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. A. returned their weapons and asked, them to pardon "the only error he had committed during the whole expedition." He was anxious to execute one of his captains, Espinola, but no one would help him to do it. This captain with his troops then joined the Royalists, and others of Aguirre's soldiers, under pretence of attacking the enemy, marched out in the sight of " El Tirano " and joined the forces of Bravo, shouting " Long live the king to whose service we come.'' In this manner Aguirre, who stood outside his entrenchment watching the operations, saw all his men desert him except Llamoso. The tyrant asked him why he also had not joined the king's party, but without paying attention to his protestations of fidelity, he went in to the apartment- of his daughter. " Commend thyself to God, my daughter," said he, "for I am about to kill thee that thou mayest not be pointed at with scorn, nor be in the power of any one who may call thee the daughter of a traitor." A woman who was with the girl strove to save her and snatched the loaded arquebus from the hands of the traitor, but he drew his poniard and slew his daughter with it. As the forces of Bravo entered the room, he threw down his arms, and stood in a dejected manner by" the side of a bed which was in the room. The first man that approached was a sword-cutler, who cried out, " Here have I Aguirre as my prisoner," but " El Tirano," with the national hauteur of his class (he was nobly born), replied, "I do not give myself up to such a villain as you," and seeing that Parades had entered the room, added, " Senor maestre del campp, I beg that you who are a caballero will respect my rank and listen, for I have many important things to say for the good of the king's service." Parades was inclined to retain him alive, but the soldiers, especially his former followers, who knew what dread ful revelations he could make, were clamorous for his instant death. The " maestre del campo " was not urgent to save his life, and the traitor was shot by two of his former soldiers, whilst a third cut off his head, and holding it by its long hair carried it out to meet the governor who was just arriving on the scene of action. Such was the strange career of the tyrant Lope de Aguirre, in the narration of which numerous murders committed by him have been omitted. The letter addressed by him to the king of Spain, as well as his purposeless butcheries, would seem to indicate a mind diseased. His end was a very welcome one for App. A.] ANCIENT HISTORY OF VENEZUELA. 165 Venezuela, as he had inflicted great ravages both in Margarita and on the mainland. His memory was long held in execration, and the fiery vapour of the llanos, which answers to our will-o'- the-wisp, was long known to the peasantry by the name of " The Soul of the Tyrant Aguirre." The valour of Don Garcia Gonzales de Silva, the nephew of the ill-fated seeker for El Dorado, was at this juncture of great service to the colony, for called to the military leadership he succeeded in reducing to obedience many of the Avarlike Indians ; amongst them the Taramaynos, the Teques, the Mariches, and others, who had harassed the pohladores. The comparative tran quillity which ensued encouraged the foundation of new towns and cities and gave greater security to the Spanish conquest. The lake of Maracaybo early attracted the notice of the Spaniards. The lake-dwellings of the Indians suggested to Alfinger the name of Venezuela, or little Venice, which was after wards applied to all the province, but it was not until 1568 that an establishment was attempted upon its shores. Don Alonso Pacheco, with two brigantines, cruised about the lake, and after three years of constant struggle with the Indians, founded the city of Nueva Zamora in 1571. In the next year Don Juan de Salamanca traversed, without opposition, the country Curarigua, where he founded the city of San Juan Bautista del Portillo de Carora (Baraquigua). In these wars the Indians often displayed, in individual cases, a valour and intrepidity, and a greatness of soul, equal to any of the renowned heroes of antiquity. On one occasion Garcia Gonzales had prisoner an Indian chief named Socoraymo, with three companions. As the Spaniards were much harassed by the arrows of the Indians he threatened that unless Soco raymo commanded them to cease firing he would have the four impaled. The Indian patriot undaunted by this inhuman threat raised his voice, and called upon his people to charge upon the Spaniards, and animated them by an assurance of victory if they did so. Garcia Gonzales was not insensible to bravery in a foe, and revoked the order which he had given, but it was secretly carried out by his soldiers. This caused great dismay amongst the Indians, and when the wife and children of one of the chiefs were sent back from their captivity, a treaty of peace was made and faithfully adhered to by them. The subjugation of the Quiriquires and Tomuzas was intrusted 166 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. A. to Francisco Infante, but illness obliged him to leave the command to Francisco Calderon, who entered by the valley of Tacata, and, following the margins of the Tuy, took possession of all the Sabana de Ocumare, where he would have founded a city but for the opposition of his companions. Calderon was succeeded by Francisco Carrizo, whose bad government nearly drove the Indians to revolt, and it was only prevented by the prudence of Garcia Gonzales. To liberate the province from the incursions of the Caribes, and to subjugate the Cumanagotos who, since their defeat of Cerpa, had stopped all colonization in Cumana and put an end to the pearl trade on the coast, an expedition set out under the command of Garcia Gonzales, who left Caracas in 1579 with 130 men, and making for the valleys of Aragua (and then crossing the llanos of Guarico) he came to Orituco. His intention in making this long detour was to surprise the Cumanagotos, but in this he was unsuccessful, and although he routed their army of 3000 men near Rio Unare, the only advantage he obtained from his victory was to establish the small town of Espiritu Santo, which had to be abandoned in consequence of another battle in which the Indians brought 12,000 men into the field. At the return of Gonzales to Caracas, there occurred a calamity which threatened the depopulation of the country. A Portu guese ship came to Caravalleda in 1580, and brought with it an epidemic of small-pox which inflicted frightful ravages on the colony. Entire tribes of Indians were destroyed by this dreadful disease. The cruelties and oppressions of the Spaniards are, it is said, less responsible for the total disappearance of entire races than this terrible distemper. When the scourge had somewhat abated Garcia Gonzales was induced to leave the retirement in which he was living, in order to punish the Caribes who were threatening Valencia and the districts near Caracas. In this he was successful, and at the same time he also impressed the Quiriquires sufficiently with the Spanish power to allow Sebastian Diaz to found the city of San Juan de la Paz at the junction of the rivers Tuy and Guaire, a locality that was abandoned on account of its unhealthiness, the colonists moving to San Sebastian de los Reyes, founded by the same poblador in 1584. ' As even Garcia Gonzales had been unable to conquer the hardy Cumanagotos, the next expedition against them took the shape of a punishment for its commander. Cristoval C6bos, the son of the murderer of Faxardo, was condemned to undertake the war App. A.} ANCIENT HISTORY OF VENEZUELA. 167 against these warlike Indians as a penalty for his father's perfidy, and Don Luis de Rojas, the governor, assigned to him only 170 Spaniards and 300 Indians for the prosecution of a task which had been given up as hopeless by the greatest captain in the colony. C6bos met Cayaurima at the head of 8000 Indians, and gave battle at the mouth of the river Neveri. The fate of the Spaniards was very doubtful, when two cavaliers, by a dashing exploit, took prisoner the Indian chief. A treaty of peace was concluded, and the conquerors founded, higher up the river, the city of San Cristoval de los Cumanagotos. C6bos had strong feelings of resentment towards Rojas for sending him, as it ap peared, to certain death, with such, a handful of men against the large and warlike tribes who had hitherto defied the Spanish power ; and gave expression to this feeling by placing himself and his new conquest under the command of Don Rodrigo Nunez Lobo, the governor of Cumana, thus circumscribing the limits of the governorship of Venezuela. Another act of Rojas led to the abandonment of the city and harbour of Caravalleda. The cabildos (municipalities) had always enjoyed considerable powers of self-government, and particularly that of electing their magis trates. The inhabitants elected the regidores, who regulated the local affairs, and nominated the alcaldes. This appears to have been undoubted right, both by law and custom, but Rojas in 1587 arbitrarily appointed the alcaldes of Caravalleda without any reference whatever to the local wishes. The inhabitants, unable to cope with the superior force, hit upon a most effectual and simple mode of resistance ; their abandonment of the town was so complete, that they may be said to have blotted out the name of Caravalleda from the list of Venezuelan cities, and its ruins alone remain as a warning to those who would trample upon the rights of citizenship. The port of La Guayra was founded in consequence of the unwillingness to return to the old site. Rojas was also in diffi culties with his subjects, because he attempted to enforce the laws for the protection of the Indians, which his prede cessors had allowed to sleep quietly in the statute-book. The Audiencia of Santo Domingo sent over a judge to inquire into his proceedings. As the judge had a considerable share in the fines which he inflicted, his inquiry was conducted with great vigour, so that at last the corporation of Caracas, foreseeing the ruin of their city, sent a deputation to the Audiencia, and ob- 168 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. A. tained his recall. He was superseded in 1 587 by Don Diego Osorio. The task of Osorio was the reverse of easy. He came in the midst of discontent and disorganization, and had to deal with conquistadores not too scrupulous of the rights of others, with soldiers who had lost even the habit of discipline, and with the savages, who were at once objects of cruelty and fear. But the new governor gained the confidence of the people, and in 1589 the municipality of Caracas sent out an agent to the court of Spain to ask for the additional powers which Osorio deemed necessary for his task. The Venezuelan agent obtained, amongst other grants, the suspension of the excise for ten years, and the right to import, duty free, a cargo of negro slaves ! It is not a little curious to find the name of Simon Bolivar borne alike by the enslaver of the blacks, and the liberator of the whites. Osorio encouraged the peaceful occupation of the land, regu lated the land-system, favoured the establishment of municipa lities, congregated the Indians in villages, and in every way seems to have aimed at converting a colony of conquistadores into an industrious community of agriculturists and manufac turers. Whilst he was on a visit to the provinces, the famous Sir Francis Drake sacked the city of Caracas. The manners of the time were different no less in war than in peace, and Drake's mode of procedure was quite in accord with the customs, half- barbarous and half-chivalrous, of that era. At the beginning of June 1595 he landed 500 men at La Guayra, which he occupied without resistance. Many of the inhabitants having fled to Caracas, Garcia Gonzales and Francisco Reballedo, the alcaldes, raised a force and marched down the great road to La Guayra, placing ambuscades in various places on their march. Meanwhile Drake had found a scoundrel named Villalpando base enough to sell his country, and under his guidance was marching by a secret path to the capital. Arriving there he found that all the men-at-arms had gone to give him battle at La Guayra, so that he had ample opportunity to plunder the city at leisure. They were not entirely unopposed, for an old caballero, Don Alonso Andres de Ledesma, rode out alone, lance in hand, to combat them. Drake, touched by the old man's courage, desired his soldiers to spare him, but it is no easy matter to save the life of a man who rides against five hundred. Ledesma was killed, but the English bore him to his grave with every mark of honour and respect, as was fitting App. A.] ANCIENT HISTORY OF VENEZUELA. 169 to so brave a knight. When Garcia Gonzales returned to Caracas he found the city plundered, and the English entrenched in the municipal buildings and parish church adjoining, whilst the traitor Villalpando was decorating a tree on which Drake had caused him to be hanged, as a fitting reward for his treachery. The Spaniards do not seem to have contemplated attacking Drake, but tried to starve him out, and posted ambuscades to harass him. However, at the end of eight days, he marched off in battle array with his booty, and reached his vessels without loss, burning and sacking whatever houses came in his way. In 1597, Osorio was promoted to the presidency of Santo Domingo. His successor at Caracas, Liduena, appears to have worked on the lines laid down by Osorio. Liduena died in 1600, and was succeeded by Alonso Arias Baca. The progress of the province of Cumana was slow. It was many years before its governor ruled two cities. In 163 1 Don Juan de Urpin obtained authority to reduce the Cumanagotos, Palan- ques, and Caribes. With 300 men enlisted in the isle of Margarita and in Caracas, he crossed the llanos, and, at the cost of many bloody encounters, forced his way to Unare, thence to Uchire, and by the shore to San Cristoval, where his further- progress was stopped by the intrigues of his enemies. To surmount these obstacles he proceeded to Spain, and got from the Council of the Indies the full authority he required. He returned to undertake his conquest anew, but the constant opposition of the Indians was too great for him to succeed. He founded several towns, which seem to have been somewhat nomadic in disposition. Nueva Barcelona owed its origin to him in 1637. If he did not succeed in conquering his warlike neighbours, he appears to have made a good trade by selling hides. The fertility of the country offered a reward to industry, which gradually led to an increase in the number of settlers and towns. The conquest of Venezuela can hardly be said to have been completed before the end of the 17 th century. It now remained for peace and good government to consolidate the work, which, if begun from cupidity and prosecuted in blood, had yet given bright examples of courage and endurance. The bad success which attended the early attempts to work the gold mines, can only be regarded as a piece of good fortune, since it prevented the colonists from abandoning the pursuit of agriculture and other peaceful arts, which, in the end, constitute truer riches than shining gold or glittering jewels. 170 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. A. It was whilst the eastern part of Venezuela was slowly becom ing colonized, that the romantic incursion of Sir Walter Raleigh took place. The history of the fruitless expedition which he conducted to Guayana is too well known to need repeating here. As the sword was found powerless to subdue the hardy Cumana gotos, it occurred to Francisco Rodriguez Leita that missionaries might succeed where fighting men had failed. In 1652 a cedula real prohibited further military expeditions against the Indians of Cumana, and eight Franciscans were sent out to Christianize and civilize them. There seems to have been quite as much politics as religion at the bottom of these missions, for the first place chosen for their apostolic labours was the province of Bar celona, because its subjection would open out communications with the western shores of Venezuela, which had so far been pre vented by the opposition of the Indians. These Franciscan settlements were divided into two classes ; in those called doc- trina, the Indians were held to tribute as direct vassals of the king, but in those called misiones, the preachers were the sole depositaries of power, and all other white persons were excluded from settlement or authority. At last, in spite of occasional martyr doms, the Franciscans had founded thirty-eight pueblos, containing 25,000 inhabitants of the aboriginal races. This does not include the missionary labours in Guayana. But however excellent may have been the motives and conduct of the early missionaries they degenerated into instruments of extortion and oppression. For bidden by the cedula real of 1687, which gave the Indians into their hands, to receive payment for the administration of the sac raments, they carried on an usurious trade in rosaries and images, and sometimes availed themselves of the simplicity of the Indians to abuse and oppress them, until it was no rare thing to see deputations of Indians coming to the capital, to seek redress from the civil authorities for the wrongs inflicted by their monastic rulers. Sometimes they would take a more summary course. In the following century these missions were deprived of their powers, by being subjected to the general ecclesiastical rule, in consequence " de los males que sufrian los habitantes asi en lo moral como en el politico." Returning from this digression to the general history, it may be noticed that in the. seventeenth century the province suffered from the French, who were twice driven from Cumana, and who suc ceeded in sacking Caracas, and taking great booty in 1679 ; whilst App. A.] ANCIENT HISTORY OF VENEZUELA. 171 the next century saw several attempts by the English upon La Guayra, Puerto-Cabello, and Angostura. The Compania Guipuzcoana, formed in 1728, acquired the command of all the commerce between Venezuela and Old Spain. Whatever excesses these traders may have committed they cer tainly gave an important impulse to the commerce and agriculture of the colony. They introduced the culture of cacao, and the valleys of Aragua received new fruits from them. The cul tivation of anil and of sugar alternated in those smiling vales, and gave a great impetus to their social progress. Cargoes of tobacco, of hides, of indigo, of dividivi, and of other drugs showed that Venezuela was not dependent alone upon the cacao as her sole product for export. The Guipuzcoana Company having the entire monopoly of the trade soon forgot the moderation which had marked its early years, and its exactions and extortions became excessive. All the evils that a gigantic monopoly can produce were visible, and the complaints against it were loud and universal. Its misconduct reached a pitch which provoked a popular rising in 1749, and very nearly plunged the country into civil war. It was not until 1778 that this company was deprived of its monopoly, and then only to be replaced by the Compafiia Filipinas, which, however, only lasted until 1780. The mis fortunes of the French colony led to the extension of coffee- culture in Venezuela, and the mountains of Caracas were soon covered by the coffee plant, and the valleys of Aragua with the luxuriant verdure of the anil. We now are drawing to the close of the colonial history of Venezuela, and it must be admitted that the rule of Spain had not been one to bring prosperity and contentment to the colony. Spain seems ever to have had in view the object of enriching the old country with the wealth of the colonies, in place of building up free and enlightened communities. Education offers a good test of her policy. Ignorance has ever been the ally of tyranny and misgovernment. It is impossible permanently to enslave an enlightened people. The first provision for education seems to have been a college-seminary, founded by the Bishop of Caracas in 1696, with nine professorial chairs. This college was for ecclesiastics alone ; the laymen if rich might proceed to the universities of Santo Domingo, Mexico, or Santa Fe, if poor they must stay at home in ignorance. In 1724, after many applica- 172 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. A. tions, this college was converted by a royal charter into a university ; a privilege confirmed in the next year by Innocent XII. The course of study was enlarged, and the new institution was a great advantage to the country. Moved by similar motives the inhabitants of Merida petitioned the court of Madrid to grant to their seminary a university charter. The two institutions mentioned were the only public schools which existed in the country. The reply of Carlos IV. to this request is the strongest condemnation of the principles upon which Spain ruled her dependencies. He refused their request "because His Majesty did not think it proper that education should become general in America."* This was at the commencement of the nineteenth century ! The education of women was at an extremely low ebb ; " for fear of ilHcit correspondence few of them were taught even to write." The printing-press was not introduced until the beginning of this century, and was subjected to a strict censorship which permitted very little that was of real use to appear. The first printers were two Englishmen, Matthew Gallagher and James Lamb, who came from Trinidad. It was chiefly used to spread false news about the state of Europe, lest the successes of France and the critical condition of Spain should lead to a revolt. There were not wanting, however, men who were working ardently for the spread of the education which the weak Spanish king thought improper for his American subjects. They must have sacrificed their loyalty on the altars of common sense. To Don Pedro Sojo is due the teaching of music in Caracas; to Rafael Escalona and Alexandre Echesuria the in troduction of modern philosophy; to the brothers Uztariz the creation of a private literary academy, and to Sanz the diffusion of the science of political economy. The immediate causes of the insurrection which deprived Spain of her South American possessions are not far to seek. The mis- government under which they groaned was such as to excite bitter discontent, but their own monarch, and his ally Louis XVI., showed them how it might be remedied. It is not safe for despots to aid liberty in other countries. The revolt of the North American colonies from the English rule was aided and encouraged by the courts of Versailles and Madrid, and the republican spirit * " Porque S.M., no consideraba conveniente el que se hiciese general la ilustracion en America.'' Resumen de la Bistoria de Venezuela. Por Baralt. Paris, 1 841. App. A.] ANCIENT HISTORY OF VENEZUELA. 173 which they helped to bring into existence swallowed up the French monarchy and the Spanish colonies. The example of North America was always before their eyes, and in spite of the censorship and the low state of education the democratic teach ings of the writers of France had prepared them to strike for liberty. As early as 1797, an unsuccessful republican movement was attempted by Gual and Espana. The latter, who was hanged and quartered on the plaza of Caracas a month before Humboldt's visit, uttered these prophetic words on the scaffold, " No pasara mucho tiempo sin que mis cenizas sean honradas." In 1806 General Miranda, a native of Caracas who had served with distinction under the French republic, made an ineffectual demonstration which did not receive any popular support. Nevertheless, the Spanish rule was felt to be so insecure that Carlos IV. was advised to erect his American dominions into three kingdoms for his children. The news of the disasters in Spain caused a reaction of feeling, and when the French commissioners arrived in 1808, although the captain-general was willing to acknowledge the French rule, the people rose in great enthusiasm, and took the oath of fidelity to the imprisoned Fernando VII. Various attempts were now made at Caracas to constitute a Junta, similar to those which were then governing Spain. One was at last formed and the captain-general exiled. The other important towns were invited to follow the example, and it was followed in many cases. The Junta of Caracas took in hand a good work. It abolished the excise on the necessaries of life, did away with the Indian tribute, forbade the importation of slaves, created a mathe matical academy, and reformed many abuses in the administration of the laws. Some portions of the country declared for the regency, but those composing the Junta declared that they had as good a right to form a provisional government as their brethren in Spain, and turned their eyes to England as a power likely to aid them against the common enemy, and to be of service as a me diator with Spain. This mission was confided to Simon Bolivar and Luis Lopez Mendez, but met with little success. Meantime, an event at Quito gave a new impetus to the spirit of the revolution. The Junta of that town, comprising many nobly born and wealthy persons, was overturned, and the Conde Ruiz de Castillo restored to his position as president, in con sideration of his undertaking to grant a full amnesty to all 174 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. A. its late members. As soon as he received sdme auxiliary troops he broke his pledged word, and some seventy individuals were tried, and many of them condemned to death and confiscation of their property. The popular excitement became intense, and Ruiz threatened to put his prisoners to the sword in case of a disturbance. Nine men armed only with knives attacked the soldiers, who had committed grave outrages. The rioters were easily killed as the people had taken no part in their mad action. In retaliation twenty-eight of the prisoners had their throats cut, eighty people in the town were murdered by the soldiers, the richest houses were sacked ; and the perpetrators of these brutal murders received the thanks of the Spanish Governor ! The excitement in Caracas was intense, and the Junta decreed funeral honours to the victims of Quito, but at the same time expelled three persons who had been conspicuous in the popular demonstration and indignation. This was the last important civil movement previous to the events chronicled in the body of this work. The character of the revolution was now completely changed. The movement which at the commencement had been a revolt against the French usurpation in Spain, was now a struggle for independent national existence. B. LIST OF PLANTS OBSERVED IN LOS ROQTJES BY DR. A. ERNST, September 187 1* (A Translation.) 1. Cahile cequalis. L'Her. Very abundant in the sands of the shore. 2. Euphorbia buxifolia. Lam. With the preceding but rarer. 3. Sesuvium portulacastrum. L. Rare. 4. Portulaca pilosa. L. Rare. 5. Suriana maritima. L. Common name " Salcedo." 6. Salicornia ambigua. Mich. " Portuguesa." 7. Batis maritima. L. " Vidrio." 8. Lithopila muscoides. Sw. The lower leaves which form stars are perfectly lineal and an inch (pulgada) in size ; the upper leaves are smaller (3-ioths of an inch), and somewhat lanceolate. Very abundant in the crevices of the rock and on the road to the Light house. 9. Gossypium barbadense. L. On one of the smaller hills there are ten or twelve rickety trees, which have no doubt been introduced. 10. Corchorus hirtus. L. Very rare. 11. Pithecolobium unguis. Benth. " Beeschy de Iguana" (Vainita de Iguana) as it is called by the people of Bonaire. Pro-' bably introduced. 1 2. Rhizophora mangle L. " Mangle Colorado." Forms in many parts a dense woody veil on the borders of the isles. The wood is red, very hard, and makes an excellent fuel, for which reason the wood-cutters seek it. The shell of the mangle is used in tanning, and costs $25 per ton of 20 quintales in the dry goods stores of La Guayra. But as there are no bulky trunks in the islands, the exploration of the mangles is difficult and little remunerative. 13. Laguncularia racemosa. Gr. " Mangle bianco." Grows farther from the shores than the preceding species. * Printed' in the first volume of the Memoria de la Direction General de Estadistica de Venezuela, 1873, Part II., p. 174. 176 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. B. 14. Conocarpus erectus. L. " Botoncillo." Both trees have bark which contains tannin. 15. Melocactus communis. B.C. 16. Cereus Swartzii. Griseb (?). 17. Opuntia spinosissima. Mill. These three " cacteas" grow on the hills in El Gran Roque. The last is a disagreeable obstacle in the ascent of these little heights, for it is abundantly armed with large thorns. The fishers have given it the curious name of jonge frouwen, i.e., young ladies. 18. Cordia cylindristachya. R.Br. " Carischuri " in the patois of the fishers of Bonaire. It is the Cariaquito of Caracas. 19. Tournefortia gnaphalodes. R.Br. The fishers call it " Tabaco de pescadores," and chew its entirely insipid leaves when tobacco fails them. 20. Avicennia tomentosa. Jacq. " Mangle prieto," so called be cause the leaves turn black when dyed. The bark is used in tanning. 21. Thalassia testudinum. Koen. Near the north shore of Little Spar key, very plentiful, forming large submarine meadows. After some hours' search we were not able to find examples with either fruit or flowers. 22. Sporobolus virginicus. Kth. " Brack grass." Covers all the flat land in the eastern part of El Gran Roque. 23. Eragrostis prolifera. Steud. 24. Cyperus brunneas. Sw. On the sands of the shore. 25. Cyperus caesins. Belclr. Not rare on the brows of the hill. 26. Roccella tinctoria. Ach. " Orchila." Rare in El Gran Roque, probably more plentiful in the island of Orchila, which owes its name to this plant. A singular fact is the absence of Coccoloba uvifera, Ipomcea pes caprce, and other seaside plants which abound on the shores of the neighbouring continent. Perhaps it is from the difficulty of the conduction of seeds ; as the current (which is noticed on the coast running from east to west) is sufficiently strong to be an obstacle. c. ON SOME VENEZUELAN BIRDS COLLECTED BY MR. JAMES M. SPENCE. BY P. L. SCLATER, M.A., PH.D., F.R.S., AND OSBERT SALVIN, M.A., F.Z.S.* Mr. James M. Spence, F.R.G.S., of Manchester, has been kind enough to submit to our examination a large collection of birds, partly made by himself during a recent visit to Venezuela, and partly obtained from a collector resident at Caracas, f The collection contains 23 mounted and over 300 unmounted skins, referable to about 250 species. Only two of these prove to be absolutely new to us ; but there are several others of sufficient interest to induce us to offer to the Society the following notes on them. 1. Tuedus olivater (Lair.); Sclater, P.Z.S. 1859, p. 333. Mr. Spence's collection contains a single skin of this species, which, so far as we at present know, is confined to the neighbour hood of Caracas. 2. LOCHMIAS SOEOEIA, Sp. nOV. Similis L. nematuras, ex Brasilia, sed paulo major, superciliis albis nullis, et maculis corporis inferioribus minoribus et magis elongatis : long, tota 6'2, alee 3, caudce 17, tarsi 1. Bab. Venezuela (Spence). This is a northern representative of L. nematura of the wood- region of Brazil, and is closely allied to that species, although easily recognizable by the characters above given. 3. Coccyzus landsbeegi, Bp. Consp. i. p. 112; Sclater, P.Z.S. 1870, p. 169. A single skin of this rare Cuckoo in the collection is the only example we have met with besides one in the British Museum (men- * From the Proceedings Of the Zoological Society of London, May 20, 1873. t Senor Carlos E. Edjas. VOL. II. M 178 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. C. tioned P.Z.S. 1870, p. 169). The species appears to be restricted to Venezuela and the northern coast of Columbia. 4. MlCEASTUE Z0N0THOEAX (Cab.). Mr. Spence brings us a fine adult specimen of this northern form of M. ruficollis, which agrees in every way with the points of dis tinction pointed out by Dr. Cabanis.* We had previously only seen immature examples. + 5. Aedea heeodias, Linn. The occurrence of this northern species so far south as Venezuela is a novelty to us. The most prevalent species in South America is Ardea cocoi, which extends into Guiana (Schomb. Guian. iii. p. 752). But A. herodias occurs in the Antilles and in the Galapagos (Scl. & Salv. P.Z.S. 1870, p. 323). 6. Poezana leveaudi, Scl. . graminoides Lindl. (D. gramiuea Griseb.). Griseb. Flora, 625. Bonpl. ii. 15. Caracas (Wagener). 52. D. muricata Lindl. Eaton orchid. Fendl. 1457. XXII. Elleanthus. 53. E. arpophyllostachys (Evelyna) Rchb. Bonpl. ii. 21 ; Walp. Ann. vi. 479. Caracas (Wagener). 54. E. bractescens (Evelyna Lindl.) Rchb. Walp. Ann. vi. 479. Pdramos of Merida, 8000-10,000 feet (Linden). 55. E. capitatus Rchb. Walp. Ann. vi. 475. Slopes of the Sierra Nevada, Merida (Linden) ; Caracas (A.E.). 56. E. columnaris Rchb. Walp. Ann. vi. 483. Agua de Obispo and Sierra Nevada, Merida (Linden). 57. E. ensatus Rchb. Walp. Ann. vi. 482. Sierra Nevada, Merida (Linden). 58. E. flavescens Rchb. Walp. Ann. vi. 479. Between Humucaros Abajo and Agua de Obispo, in Trujillo, at the height of 7000 feet (Linden). 198 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. G. 59. E. furfuraceus Rchb. Walp. Ann. vi. 480. Merida (Linden) ; Caracas (Wagener, A.E.). Rather common. 60. E. gracilis Rchb. Walp. Ann. vi. 481 (Evelyna, Rchb. in Linnsea xxii. 843). Merida, 6500 feet (Funck and Schlim). 61. E. kermesianus Rchb. Walp. Ann. vi. 478. Bonpl. ii. 21. Caracas (Wagener). 62. E. linifolius Prsl. Walp. Ann. vi. 476 (Evelyna granimi- folia Popp. & Endl.) Bonpl. ii. 21. Caracas, 4000 feet (Wagener). 63. E. lupulinus Rchb. Walp. Ann. vi. 483. Pdramos of the Sierra Nevada, 10,000 feet (Linden). 64. E. Wageneri Rchb. Bonpl. ii. 21: Walp. Ann. vi. 474. Caracas (Wagener). XXIII. Epidendrtjm. 65. E. agathosmicum Rchb. Linnaea xxii. 841 ; Walp. Ann. vi. 413. Caracas, near the Venta, on the old road to La Guayra (Moritz) ; Trujillo (Wagener, Bonpl. ii. 20). 66. E. albovirescens Hors. Link. Rchb. in Schiller's Kat. 415. Caracas. 67. E. alpicolum Rchb. Bonpl. ii. no; Walp. Ann. vi. 366. Merida (Moritz, Wagener). 68. E. ansiferum Rchb. Bonpl. ii. in ; Walp. Ann. vi. 394. Caracas, Chacao (E. Otto). 69. E. atropurpureum Willd. (E. macrochilum Hook.) Ann. vi. 344. Flore des Serres iv. 372. Caracas, rather common. There is a variety with a pure white labellum and some red streaks. (Wagener, Spence, A.E.). 70. E. attenuatum. Lindl. Walp. Ann. vi.. 359. Trujillo; Agua de Obispo, 9000 feet (Funck and Schlim). 71. E. bicornutum Hook. Walp. Ann. vi. 345. Bonpl. ii. 20 ; Carabobo (Wagener). 72. E. bilamellatum Rchb. Walp. Ann. vi. 345. Caracas (Wagener, A.E.). 73. E. Blepharistes Bark. Walp. Ann. vi. 379. La Guayra (Linden) ; Venezuela (Funck and Schlim). 74. E. brachychilum Lindl. Walp. Ann. vi. 352. Sierra Nevada, Merida (Linden); Caracas (Wagener, Bonpl. ii. 20). App. G.] ORCHIDES VENEZUELANS. 199 75. E. brachycladium Rchb. Walp. Ann. vi. 379. (E. cras- sipes Lindl.). Caracas (Purdie ?).* 76. E. cardioglossum Rchb. Linnaea xxii. 841 ; Walp. Ann. vi. 407. Silla de Caracas (Moritz). 77. E. carneum Lindl. Walp. Ann. vi. 364. Merida, Jaji (Linden). 78. E. ceratistes Lindl. Walp. Ann. vi. 329 ; Bonpl. ii. 19. Caracas (Wagener). 79. E. chacaoense Rchb. Bonpl. ii. 20 ; Walp. Ann. vi. 358. Caracas, Chacao (Wagener). 80. E. ciliare L. Walp. Ann. vi. 347. Caracas. Very common. " Mariposita bianco," i.e., "a little white butterfly." 81. E. clavatum Lindl. " Walp. Ann. vi. 349. Cumana (Henchman). 82. E. cochleatum L. Walp. Ann. vi. 359 ; Griseb. Flora, 616. Caracas (Wagener, A.E.). "Arana," i.e., spider. 83. E. cochlidium Lindl. Walp. Ann vi. 393. Merida in sub-alpine rocky places (Moritz). " Fior de San Jos6," Merida. Caracas (Wagener, Bonpl. ii. 20). 84. E. coriophorum Rchb. Walp. vi. 347 ; Bonpl. ii. 20, no precise locality, but collected by Wagener in Venezuela. 85. E. cornutum Lindl. Bonpl. ii. 20. Caracas (Wagener, A.E.). 86. E. cuspidatum Lodd. Eaton, orchid. Fendl. 1384. This species is generally considered as a form of E. ciliare. 87. E. Dendrobii Rchb. Linnaea, xxii. 841. Merida, in the alpine region (Moritz). 88. E. difforme Jacq. (E. umbellatum Sw.). Walp. Ann. vi. 402 ; Bonpl. ii. 20. Caracas (Wagener). 89. E. elongatum Jacq. Walp. Ann. vi. 395. Caracas. " Vara de San Jose\" Very common. 90. E. fallax Lindl. Walp. Ann. vi. 353, var. b. flavescens. Merida, Sierra Nevada (Linden) ; Barbacoas (Wagener, Bonpl. ii. 20). 91. E. fimbriatum H.B.K. Nov. gen. et sp. pi. i. 351, Walp. * Purdie was never in Caracas ; the species is, therefore, mentioned here with some doubts. Lindley, and others, comprehend under the name Carac- cas generally the whole Caribbean coast of South America to Santa Marta, an entirely false denomination which ought not to be continued in recent books. 200 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. G. vi. 406. Pdramo del Zumbador, 1 1,000 feet (Linden) ; Caracas (Wagener, Bonpl. ii. 28). 92. E.floribundum H.B.K. Nov. gen. et sp. pi. i. 353, tab. 86; Walp. Ann. vi. 413. The variety b. lilacinum Rchb. (Linn. xxii. 840) was collected in Venezuela (locality not stated) by Moritz, and Funck and Schlim. 93. E.fragrans Sw. Bot. Mag. 152 ; Walp. Ann. vi. 357 ; Bonpl. ii. 20. Barcelona (Wagener) ; Caracas (A.E.). 94. E. frigidum Lindl. Walp. Ann. vi. 411. Sierra Nevada of Merida, on damp rocks a short distance from eternal snow (Linden, Wagener, Bonpl. ii. 20). 95. E. fulgens Brogn. (E. cinnabarinum Salzm. Bot. Reg. 1842, t. 25). Venezuela (Grisebach Flora, 617). 96. E. grammatoglossum Rchb. Linn. xxii. 857 ; Walp. Ann. vi. 350. S. Ana in Trujillo, at the height of 5000 feet (Funck and Schlim). 97. E.heterodoxum Rchb. Bonpl. ii. 20; Walp. Ann. vi. 326. Caracas (Wagener). 98. E. jajense Rchb. Bonpl. ii. 20; Walp. Ann. vi. 352. Jaji, Merida (Wagener). 99. E. Kermesianus Lindl. Walp. Ann. vi. 349. Caracas (?). 100. E. Klotzschianum Rchb. Linn. xxii. 838, Merida, on cold places in the deep forests of the Sierra Nevada (Moritz). 1 01. E. labiatum Rchb. Walp. Ann. vi. 313 (Cattleya labiata). Var. Mossice. " Fior de Mayo." Caracas, common to all collectors. This is a very variable plant, the most frequent forms are the following : — a. Pallida, La Guayra (Rchb. in Schiller's Kat. 211). b. Speciosa, Caracas ( ibid. ibid. 212). c. Reineckeana, ibid. (Rchb. in Bonpl. iv. 327). Var. Urselli, Rchb. in Schiller's Katalog, 214. Var. Wageneri, Rchb. in Xen. i. 28, 29, tab. 13 (Cattleya) ; Walp. Ann. vi. 314; Bonpl. iii. 21. Very rare near Caracas. 102. E, lacustre Rchb. (E. leucochilum Lindl. ; non. Klotzsch). Walp. Ann. vi. 369. Laguneta, near Merida, 8000 feet (Linden). 103. E. leucochilum Klotzsch (E. flavidum Lindl.). Walp. Ann. vi. 369. Caracas (Otto) ; Barbacoas (Wagener). " Paloma blanca," i.e., white dove. App. G.] ORCHIDES VENEZUELANS. 201 104. E. Lindeni Lindl. Walp. Ann. vi. 393. Merida, Caracas (Linden). 105. E. Matutinum Rchb. Linn. xxii. 840. Merida (Moritz). 106. E. Moritzii Rchb. Linn. xxii. 837. Walp. vi. 350. Merida (Moritz, Wagener, Funck and Schlim). 107. E. naucratis Rchb. Bonpl. ii. 20; Walp. vi. 412. Col lected by Wagener, but precise locality not mentioned. 108. E. nocturnum L. Walp. Ann. iv. 404. Bonpl. ii. 20. Caracas (Wagener, A.E.). 109. E. nutans Sw. Walp. Ann. vi. 376 ; Hook. Exot. Flora 50. Caracas (A.E.). Also collected by Fendler 1770. no. E. orchioides. Eaton orchid. Fendl. 1452. in. E. Ottonis Rchb. Griseb. Flora 613. Venezuela. 112. E. paniculatum Ruiz and Pavon. Walp. Ann. vi. 376. The var. C. cuspidatum was collected by Linden, Funck and Schlim, near Caracas. 113. E. Peperomia Rchb. Bonpl. ii. 20; Walp. Ann. vi. 368. Caracas (Wagener), 114. E. polyanthum Lindl. (E. Landsbergii Regel). Walp. Ann. vi. 380. Caracas (Lansberge). 115. E. purum Lindl. Walp. Ann. vi. 412. Caracas (Linden, Wagener, A.E. ). 116. E. pygmceum Hook. Griseb. Flora, 615; Bot. Mag. ' 3233- Caracas (A.E.). 117. E. ramosum Jacq. Walp. Ann. vi. 399. Griseb. Flora, 618. Caracas (A.E.). 118. E. raphidophorum Lind. Walp. Ann. vi. 371. Silla de Caracas (Funck and Schlim) ; Paramo de los Conejos, Linden (not Conisos, as is erroneously printed in the place quoted). 119. E. recurvatum Lindl. Walp, Ann. vi. 410. Bailadores (Linden). 120. E. refractum Lindl. Walp. Ann. vi. 354. Sierra Nevada of Merida 10,000-12,000 feet (Linden, Wagener). 121. E. rigidum Jacq. Walp. Ann. vi. 400; Hook. Icones, 314; Bonpl. ii. 20. Caracas (Wagener, A.E.). 122. E. sceptrum Lindl. Walp. Ann. vi. 353. Jajf, 6500 feet (Linden). 123. E. Schomburgkii Lindl. .Walp. Ann. vi. 389; Griseb. 202 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. G. Flora, 617. Island of Margarita, near S. Ana del Norte (A.E., April 1873). 124. E. Schlimii Rchb. Walp. Ann. vi. 361 ; Linn. xxii. 838. Merida, 6500 feet (Funck and Schlim). 125. E. scutella Lindl. Walp. Ann. vi. 367. Merida (Wagener). 126. E. Stamfordianum Batem. Walp. Ann. vi. 415 ; Xen. orchid, ii. 36; Bot. Mag. 4759; Bonpl. ii. 20. Caracas (Wagener). 127. E. stellatum Lind. Walp. Ann. vi. 339. Caracas (Purdie 1). 128. E. sthenopotalum Hook. Walp. Ann. vi. 402. Near Sau Cristobal, State of Tachira, in forests at the height of 3000 feet (Linden) ; Caracas, 6000 feet (Wagener, Bonpl. ii. 20). 129. E. strobiliferum Rchb. Griseb. Flora, 618. Island of Margarita, on trees in the ravine of the rivulet Tamoco, near Santa Ana del Norte (A.E.). 130. E. subpurum Rchb. Bonpl. ii. 21 ; Walp. Ann. vi. 413. Caracas (Wagener). 131. E. tenax Rchb. Bonpl. ii. 20; Walp. Ann. vi. 367. Venezuela (Wagener). 132. E. tesselatum Batem (E. lividum Lindl.). Walp. Ann. vi. 340, 341. La Guayra, Caracas (Wagener, Bonpl. ii. 20). 133. E. tigrinum Lindl. Walp. Ann. vi. 354. Jajf, 5000- 9000 feet (Linden) ; Bonpl. ii. 20. Caracas (Wagener). 134. E. tipuloideum Lindl. Walp. Ann. vi. 350. Carabobo, Campanario, 1000 feet (Funck and Schlim). 135. E. tovarense Rchb. Linn. xxii. 838 ; Walp. Ann. vi. 370. Colony Tovar (Moritz) ; Bonpl. ii. 20. Caracas (Wagener). 136. E. variegatum Hook. Walp. Ann. vi. 355 ; Bonpl. ii. 20. Caracas (Wagener). 137. E. violaceum Rchb. Walp. Ann. vi. 318 (Cymbidium, H.B.K. ; Cattleya superba Schomb.) ; Flore des Serres, ix. 926. San Fernando de Atabapo (Humboldt). 138. E. virens Lindl. Walp. Ann. vi. 337 (E. Wageneri Kltzsch.) ; Bonpl. ii. 19. Caracas, 3500 feet (Wagener, A.E.). 139. E. xantholeucum Rchb. Linn. xxii. 839; Walp. Ann. App. G.] ORCH IDES VENEZUELANS. 203 vi. 373. Merida, Chachopo, near Mucuchies, 9000 feet (Funck and Schlim). XXIV. Eriopsis. 140. Er. spec. Rchb. in Schiller's Kat. No. 532. Venezuela. XXV. Galeandra. 141. G. Beyrichii Rchb. Linn. xxii. 854. Walp. Ann. iii. 552. Bonpl. ii. 19. Caracas (Wagener). XXVI. Gongora. 142. G. odoratissima Lemaire, in Flore des Serres, iii. 229; Walp. Ann. i. 783 ; vi. 596. La Guayra (Wagener, A.E.). 143. G. odoratissima, b. fulgida, Rchb. in Schiller's Kat. No. 554. Venezuela. 144. G. odoratissima, c. zenischii, Rchb. in Schiller's Kat. No. 555. Venezuela. 145. 67. quinquenervis Ruiz & Pavon. Walp. Ann. vi. 595. Puerto-Cabello. Caracas (A.E.). 146. G. retrorsa Rchb. Bonpl. ii. 19; Walp. Ann. vi. 593; Xen. orchid, i. 54, tab. 20 iii. Merida (Wagener). XXVII. Goodyeea. 147. G. guayanensis Lindl. Genera and Species, 494. Cara cas, Catuche (A.E.). XXVIII. Govenia. 148. G. tingens Endl. & Popp. Linn. xxvi. 144 ; Walp. Ann. vi. 559. Silla de Caracas, 4000 feet (Wagener, A.E.). 149. G. utriculata Lindl. Bot. Mag. 415 1; Griseb. Flora, 628. Venezuela. XXIX. Habenaeia. 150. H. angustafolia, H.B.K. Nova gen. et sp. pi. i. 330. Ciudad-Bolivar, in swampy places (Humb.). 151. H.brachyceras. Eaton Orchid. Fendl. 1437. 152. H. entomantha. ibid. ibid. 1438. 153. H. heptadactyla Rchb. Linn. xxii. 812. Caripe (Moritz) ; Orinoco (Humb.). 154. H. Lindenii. Eaton orch. Fendl. 1434. 155. H. macroceratitis W. Griseb. Flora, 643. Caracas, on the grassy slopes of mountains (A.E.). 204 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. G. 156. II. maculosa Lindl. (H. speciosa Endl. way to the Silla, as the cloud in which they were enveloped rendered it impossible to make out the surroundings, but a steep and difficult rise dissipated their fears, and led them by 10 o'clock a.m. to a small and agreeable piece of table-land surrounded by peaks and known by the name of La Cienaga (the Marsh), a designation it has received from the ground in this place being moist and in some parts muddy, an effect caused no doubt by the nightly condensation of the vapours, and by the waters flowing down from the surround ing heights. Its length from north to south would be, perhaps, 300 metres, but its average width was not more than 50. All this is covered with a species of Podosoemum alpestre, amongst which are scattered the plants we have mentioned and many others; one of these we may name for its abundance the Hypericum cara- casanum, whose flower is very small, and of a blue colour slightly tinged with violet. Almost in the centre of this lovely plain they found an excellent spring, the- existence of which is easily explained. The water com- 236 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. K. ing down as rain enters the soil, is pushed further down by that which filters in later until it encounters an impermeable layer of earth, where it accumulates. In the dry season many springs dry up by excessive evaporation, but that of La Cieiiaga is abund ant all the year round, partly because it receives the filtration water of all the surrounding heights, and partly because it is sheltered by an enormous granite stone, which protects it from the immediate action of the sun's rays. Probably this stone, and others near it, were at one time portions of the nucleus of the mountain, but being on the surface have been loosened by the continual shock of the waters. This delightful spot appeared the most suitable for a halt, whilst the travellers discussed a meal not quite so frugal as that which Humboldt was forced to take when he ascended this moun tain. The water of the spring could only be drunk in small draughts. The thermometer was submerged in it for a quarter of an hour at 10.30 a.m. and lowered to 140, a result which may be considered as giving the average temperature of the surrounding peaks. The same instrument registered in the open air 16°, being approximately the average temperature, if notice be taken of the month and hour in which the observation was made. We need not repeat that every precaution was taken to avoid all causes of error which influence these thermometrical indications. Of all meteoro logical observations the most' delicate and the most difficult are those relating to temperature, because the methods so far devised for the arrangement of thermometers do not fully answer the end in view. If the instrument be suspended at five or six feet from the ground it may still be influenced by the heat of the soil ; and if it is put in the shade, although the place may not be very sheltered, perhaps its indications may be deceitful from not being exposed to the action of sufficient air to graduate the temperature. Again, there is a continual variation in small local atmospheres, an inevitable consequence of the winds which lead to a continual change in the thermometer, causing it alternately to rise and falL The tempera ture of the barometric column was not uniform with that of the free air. The fastened thermometer marked i60-5 when it was at a height of 589-5 millimetres. The hygrometer marked 820 of humidity. These data showed that the plain was 1410 metres or 723 '38 toesas above Caracas. At 11 "30 the the travellers left La Cienaga in a northerly direc tion. The grasses at the northern extremity of the mesita were 15 feet high, and so thorny that it was with great difficulty a passage App. K.] ASCENT OF THE SILLA. 237 could be forced through the dense thicket which they formed. After having walked some 1500 metres they were again on the crest of the Cordillera, and once more surrounded by fog. The precipices which they observed towards the north, crowned with masses of granite, showed that they were not far from the western peak. In point of fact, after a short and easy descent, and another ascent longer and steeper, they came to a height which was un known, as there was no point visible with which to compare it. The great descent they had previously made led them to suspect that if this was not the western peak it was at least a notable point of the Cordillera, for which reason they resolved to make an observation with the instruments. It was now 1.30 p.m., and the two thermometers indicated a temperature of i5°'8, the barometer marking 577 and the hygrometer showing 84° of humidity. According to the previous formula the height of this peak was 1589 metres, or 8i5-33 toesas above Caracas. It was not until the next day that they found out they had not been very happy in the selec tion of their station, for one twenty metres higher had been passed unobserved when walking into a cloud of hairy bees, which Hum boldt has confounded with those generally called angelitos. These were certainly not so inoffensive, as they sting without being urged by necessity, as some of the travellers found. They may with justice be termed bad angels / In this place were seen unequivocal signs that these heights are frequented by the Tapir or Danta, con sidered by naturalists as the elephant of the American continent. The remarkable pyramid which forms the eastern peak was visible for some moments, and looked as though it might be touched by the hands, although it really could not be reached without descending from this spot and crossing the wood of musaceas, of which Humboldt spoke. In this descent they came into the route of the celebrated traveller, reaching the place at the same hour, that is, at two o'clock in the afternoon. When they examined the' form of this pyramid they found that, as Humboldt had remarked, in order to reach the highest peak it is necessary to keep as closely as possible to the enormous precipice which slopes down to Cara- balleda. At 2.30 p.m. a wind from the east cleared the summit, and allowed it to be seen in all its majesty ; its sides covered with masses of granite, though not from any want of vegetation, for the learned traveller attributed the nudity of the eastern and. western peaks, amongst other causes, to the frequent fires in the mountains of this 238 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. K. equinoctial region. If thirty-three years ago grasses and some small shrubs of Befaria only were found, at present there can be seen the Trixes of Swartz growing in abundance to a height of four metres, and various other plants. The ascent is steep but not dangerous, and can be done in an hour, although our travellers took a somewhat longer time to reach the top. The dreadful precipice which descends to Caraballeda cannot be looked upon without fear. There are few mountains whose sides are so nearly vertical as to form with the horizon an angle of 52", which is the inclination of this part of the peak. When our travellers trod the summit they felt a sensation of cold the thermometer did not justify, a phenomenon easily explained by the rapidity with which the evaporation of perspiration takes place in a rarified air. For a similar reason the repercussion of the per spiration, caused by the transitions from heat to cold and from action to repose, in ascending great heights, is not dangerous. This is not the case with descents, although the fatigue is less. At 4.4 p.m. the instruments were again observed ; the free thermometer indicated a temperature i4°"2, the fast one 15°, and the barometric column 562. The hygrometer marked 820 of humidity. These data gave as the height of the eastern peak of the Silla 1830 metres or 930^24 toesas above Caracas. Humboldt, who has occupied himself very largely with meteoro logical observations, has found that an elevation of 200 metres corresponds to a fall of one degree in the centigrade thermometer ; Saussure considers this fall equivalent to a rise of 195 metres, and Gay Lussac, who in his aeronautical voyage occupied himself with this law, notes that the diminution of temperature follows an arithmetical proportion, in which the descent of a degree is equal to 1 87 '4 metres. The difference of level between the eastern peak and the house of Matamoros is 1 1 7 7 metres, and as this difference would increase to 1555 metres according to Gay Lussac's law, we may be certain that of the three this is the one nearest the truth, and so most worthy of confidence. The sky was now clear, and the view embraced an immense space. It cannot be doubted that Humboldt in the short time he remained upon the Silla had not the good fortune to enjoy a perfectly clear atmosphere, and hence could not see all that might have arrested the attention of a savant. We may believe this when he assures us that the Cordillera of Ocumare impeded the view of the Llanos of Calabozo. Our voyagers, on the contrary, noted that the de- App. K.] ASCENT OF THE SILLA. 239 pression in its centre allowed the eye to see away to the south a great part of the vast llanuras which extend to the margin of the Orinoco, closed in by a terrestrial horizon, as the view on the north was by the sea. To the same cause may perhaps be attributed the silence of Humboldt respecting the existence of the Peak of Naiguatd, which, standing at a short distance from that of the Silla, may justly dispute with it the first place amongst the high peaks of the Cordillera of the Avila. The narrowness of the meseta did not allow our travellers to use it as the base for a trigonometrical determination of the relative heights, and they had to content themselves with measuring the angle of elevation, which was three degrees. It is not so easy to explain, by the supposition of an atmosphere charged with vapour, the deception which has led the savant to say in conclusion that the western peak of the Silla deprived him of the view of the city of Caracas, whilst in the judgment of our travellers nearly all its houses were visible from the eastern peak, though only some were able to see the suburb of La Pastora. Although the air was not perfectly clear they could distinguish without difficulty all the valley of Caracas, and a great part of the valleys of the Tuy, with all the intermediate branches of the Cordillera, including the routes from El Valle to the Tuy and the new coach-road beginning at the height of Coche, and running in the direction of the valleys of Aragua. The high mountains of Guarayma prevented a view of these valleys, but the road leading to them by the heights of Higuerote and Las Lagunetas was dis tinctly seen. The mountains of Tipe were also perceptible, and the turns which they make towards the sea in the direction of Carayaca and Tarma. The villages of Petare, Chacao, Baruta, El Valle, and La Vega were distinctly seen, and lastly, to the south, according to Humboldt, the narrow curtain of cultivated land contrasted agree ably with the savage and melancholy aspect of the hills surrounding it, and to the north the narrow valley of Carabelleda interposed between the base of the Cordillera and the mouth of the sea, gave ad ditional grandeur to the aspect of the peak. Some slight vapours which seemed to rest upon the sea prevented them "from clearly marking the line which separated it from the atmosphere, and con sequently rendered the islands of Orchila, Tortuga, Aves, and Los Roques invisible, although they were included in the horizon open to the spectator. This horizon would include thirty leagues if we leave out the effects of refraction. Although the travellers might 240 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. K. have come down from the peak during the same evening, they pre ferred to stay in order to enjoy the sight of the landscape at day break. They prepared to pass the night on the. peak, but had not counted upon the sudden changes of weather so frequent at this season. Whilst the east wind kept up the air remained clear, but as soon as the west wind began to blow dense clouds accumulated upon the peak ; then came a rainfall which lasted from nine to eleven, at which hour it ceased, and good weather again returned. This unforeseen event was fatal to the comfort of those who had ex pected to sleep tranquilly upon the peak. Their wet clothes and the damp soil made them watch with impatience for the return of day to put an end to the melancholy plight in which they found themselves. At five in the morning a return of bad weather was threatened, for the winds again varied, and on opening the box containing the hygrometer, the instrument which at first only marked 85° of humidity rapidly rose to 900 ; but the east wind prevailing dissi pated the vapours, and it fell to 84°, at which figure it remained stationary. Humboldt noticed the exact contrary effect upon the hygromelro de ballena of Deluc, for when in a great cloud which prevented him from seeing the nearest objects, this instrument, instead of being affected by the watery vapour, marked a degree less of humidity than it had done before the existence of the cloud. Others have noticed similar phenomena, but although they can be satisfactorily explained, it is not less certain that these are only caused by special atmospheric conditions. At six o'clock the thermometer marked 10° temperature, and if it is recollected that at 4.30 p.m. the preceding evening the same instrument showed i4°"2, we shall not be far wrong in supposing that the average temperature of the day was i2°-5. It is known that the average temperature of .the month of October is the same as the average temperature of the year, and as this observation just mentioned was made on the ist of September, we may fix, approxi mately, the average temperature of the eastern peak at 1 2°, which is equal to that of Philadelphia. At this hour the air was perfectly clear; they could see with precision the objects already named, except the nearest valleys, which were covered with a great cloud as white as cotton. This rapidly cleared away from the city and villages on the banks of the Guaire. As these vapours in rising slipped away by the folds of the mountain, the previous observations were not repeated, as it was feared, and not without foundation, App. K.]. ASCENT OF THE SILLA. 241 that they would lower the barometric column and increase the temperature. At half-past six they began the descent, and on coming to the seat of the Silla they thought it proper to determine its height. The barometric column was 585-5, the temperature of the air i4°'5, and of the mercury 140, which data would make its height to be 1462 metres or 750-8 toesas above Caracas. At half-past nine the travel lers had reached La Cienaga, and having left it at eleven reached the house of Matamoros at half-past one, and were in Caracas before four o'clock. Here we might conclude our relation, but as they took the Academy of Mathematics for the point of comparison in determining the heights, it is clear that they cannot be compared with the results obtained by Humboldt without a barometric observation at the level of the sea. To complete this matter two of the young gentle men who ascended the Silla, in the days immediately following, went to Maiquetia, where they found that the mercury at the mouth of the sea was 764-6, the temperature of the air 26°-6, and the mer cury 25°-9. From these data the height of the Academy of Mathe matics may be reckoned at 815 metres or 419 toesas, and conse quently the elevation of the eastern peak of the Silla at 2628 metres or 1349-24 toesas, a result which differs from that of Humboldt by less than a toesa, and, whilst confirming the observations of this savant, it shows the degree of faith which can be placed in those of our travellers. We conclude this narrative by a list of plants which have been brought down by them, and which have been classified by Dr. Jose Maria Vargas, who kindly undertook the task. Plants gathered on the Avila by Senor Juan Manuel Cajigal and his companions. Baillieria Nereifolia, called " Incienso de la Silla." Equisetum Humboldtii. Basella marginata. Gualtheria odorata (pesgua olorosa). Gualtheria coccinea (pesgua macho). Gay laussacia buxifolia. Hypericum Caraoasanum. Podossemum alpestre (the tall grass of the Silla). Malpighia (with yellow flower). Sysirinchium iridifolium. Tillandsia paniculata. vol. 11. Q 242 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. K. Epidendro (with rosy violet flower). Another (drooping species). Oncidium.Neottia vaginata (a Peruvian plant). Bredemeyera floribunda. Alstroemeria rosea (with beautiful flowers of a red tile colour, almost crimson, spotted inside with green). Befaria glauca. Befaria ledifolia. Tabernse montana umbrosa. Chiococca paniculata. Valeriana Caracasana. Melastomnacea trinerve (with a small white flower). Another quinquenerve (with a large crimson flower). Dodonae trialata. Some Observations on the Plants mentioned in the Ascent of the Silla. By Dr. A. Ernst. The Neottia Vaginata, Kunth (nova gen. et spec, plant, i. 331), found by Humboldt and Bonpland near Loxa, Gonzanama, and Malacates in Peru, is probably a species of Spiranthes, but his description is very vague and might apply to various plants of the tribes of the Neotidea. ' The Alstrojmeria Rose.e (or rather Bomaria rosea) of the authors of the Flora Peruvise has red flowers streaked with black lines (lineis nigris maculatis, Flora Peruv. iii. 61); the words of Cajigal, flores de color rojo de teja, leonadas por dentro, show that the species they found was the B. Bredemeyerana, Herb. (Alstroe meria Bredemeyerana, Willd.), of which there is a very minute description in the Enumeratio plantarum of Kunth, v. 808. It is a creeping plant sufficiently common in our mountains, and has in its roots tubes like small potatoes, for which reason it is called Lairen de montana. I recommend it to the attention of lovers of horticulture ! Bredemeyera Floribunda. If Cajigal did not deceive himself when saying that this was " de un bellisimo azul de cabalto " it could not be the plant named, which has yellow flowers. Its common name is Camilla de Venado, and -it abounds in the lower parts of the valley of Caracas. I cannot recollect a single instance of having seen it in the same region as the Befaria ledifolia. Perhaps it may have been mistaken for the Monina phytolaccafolia, Kunth, a plant of the family of the poligaleas (to which the Bredemeyera also be- App. K.] ASCENT OF THE SILLA. 243 longs), which abounds in the Avila and has flowers of the colour mentioned by Cajigal. (See the Vargasia 188, note 2). Incienso de la Silla. This is not a species of Trixis, but a type of a new species which I have described (Vargasia 185) under the name of Libanothamnus. For further details I must refer to that article. The Hypericum Caracasanum has yellow flowers, and not of blue slightly violet which are found in none of the 160 species of this genera. I cannot say what plant Cajigal's may have been. The Basella marginata is probably the Anredera scanderis, Moq., which abounds in the higher parts of the mountain. L. FIRST VENEZUELAN FINE AETS EXHIBITION. (Translated from La Opinion Nacional, 2gth July 1872.) Yesterday began the exhibition of paintings, sculptures, and photo graphs in the salon of the Caf6 del Avila, which will continue open two days more. To Mr. James M. Spence, an English gentleman, we owe this new development of our civilization, both in its origin and in the greater part of its happy realization. From eight o'clock in the morning until three in the afternoon it was visited by num berless families and native and foreign gentlemen who had received special invitations, and from that hour until six o'clock (when the exhibition closed on account of the preparations for the banquet given to the artists by Mr. Spence) the public invaded the place, as if it were one of those religious spectacles which in past ages attracted to the churches immense crowds of the faithful. The living wave renewed itself at every instant, and the eye of the spec tator passed over files of visitors of both sexes, of every age and condition, from the ancient gray-beard leaning on his staff to the proud lady with black and ringleted hair, from the mischievous boy to the grave statesman. Artists, litterateurs, artizans, poets, officials, antiquaries, priests, men of science, and men of labour all elbowed each other in this fane of Minerva, rendering homage to art, and hailing the advent of peace which binds all hearts in the brotherhood of civilization.On entering the hall the aspect was indeed magnificent. The little theatre in which Meseron, the proprietor of the cafe, has so often presented to the public of Caracas his well applauded dramatic pieces, was converted into a sumptuous exhibition of sculptures and photographs, whilst the walls, hung with blue cloth, were covered from top to bottom with a multitude of paintings, drawings, and portraits, in which shone the grace and ability of the Venezuelan pencil. App. L.] VENEZUELAN FINE ARTS EXHIBITION. 245 Here was truly a novelty, a festival — and whilst the lively crowd investigated everything, admiring here a detail, there a beautiful combination, inquiring the names of the artists, and eulogizing them according to their respective merits, one could scarcely help wonder ing if this was really the artistic genius of Venezuela suddenly aroused from its lethargy, like a flower which, withering in the diirkness of night, opens its leaves to the first rays of the day. And truly when we are so accustomed to see, only in a few private houses, some land scapes or portraits, or some images of saints, which are never taken down from the walls of the houses except to decorate the altars in the Corpus festival, we should almost have believed that the fine arts did not exist amongst us, or that if they did exist they were poor and shamefaced beings who hid their faces in their hoods, and only in the shades of night dared to seek the alms of the charitable. However, all that was wanting was that which was seen yesterday ; that the spirit of association should bring them together, and that each should place his offering in the temple of publicity, to shine for the first time and receive the plaudits of intelligence and good taste. We thought, as we saw united so many examples of the national genius, that Mr. Spence and the enthusiastic companions who have aided him in this project had discovered the secret of form ing from pearls, numerous and rich, but scattered and unknown, a magnificent necklace to embellish the statue of the arts. When our friend Meseron worked so industriously at the opening of the Salon de Senoras in his Cafe, however ambitious he may have been, he could not imagine that in so short a time it would be converted into a splendid sanctuary of national art, where all those who love it might burn the agreeable incense of admiration, and where they might hear words of hope, concord, and progress — the flattering prophecies of the future. The number of objects which figure in this exhibition is 230.* As we had barely time to run over them in the brief moments we spent there, we shall limit ourselves to citing the names and authors of the productions which most gene rally excited the attention of those who are connoisseurs in these matters — following the order of the catalogue. The copies executed by Senora Felicia Castillo de Amundaray are in good style, especially the water-colour, The Seal of Affection. There are thirty-six pictures by Ramon Bolet. We may mention, The Visit to Orchila, The Carbonero of Cardcas, and The Procession * This number was greatly enlarged after the catalogue was printed. 246 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. L. of Corpus, as being indisputable for their merit and originality. Nicanor Bolet Peraza, who can wield the pencil as well as the pen of the Comic Muses, shines in the Group of Fruits and Cows, marked by fidelity to nature. The portraits of Senor Spence and of General Manuel Quesada were the most noticeable works of Diego Casanas Burguillos; whilst Senor Davegno pleased very greatly by his views of La Guayra and Genoa. The portrait of General Guzman Blanco on horseback, executed by Carmelo Fer nandez, was reputed to be in good style, and so was that of Seiior Casiano Santana, by Garcia Beltran. The views of the Lake of Valencia and Cave of the Gudcharos are beautiful copies, which reveal the talent of the Senorita Ana Gath- man ; and among the various paintings of Senor Goering, all of greater or less merit, those of the Panorama de Maracaybo, the Rio San Esteban, and the Chorro de Marare, overtop the rest. The picture of The Blind Hen and La Virgen de los panales, both copies by Pedro Herrera Vegas, show harmonious colour and the touch of a dexterous hand. Senores Nestor Hernandez and Celestino and Ger6nimo Martinez enrich the exhibition with various pictures, of which, by the first, we notice the water-colour Group of Flowers of Cardcas; by the second, the oil paintings of the Flight into Egypt, the story of which is told in an original and masterly manner, and the Portrait of Marshal Falcon on horseback, the resemblance being perfect ; and by the third, the Portrait of Senor Juan Jose Mendoza, one of the most finished pictures present. Of Jose' Manuel Mauc6, we may cite as interesting copies in oil, the pictures of the Magdalen and Women Bathing. The talent and style of Seiior Navarro y Canizares were here worthily represented in the magnificent oil-painting of Santa Clara and the celebrated Portraits of the beautiful Senora Inocente Palacios, and of Padre Ildefonso Riera Aguinagade. Manuel Otero, an artist of surprising facility and invention, exhibited various views, chief amongst them being that of La Guayra and the original painting of the Disembarkment at Palma Sola. The Venus of Ramon Plaza is an essay which shows that in him harmony is not limited to music. With reference to Senor Martin Tovar y Tovar, the oil-painting of Misery, the Study from Nature, and the Portrait of Senor I. J. Pardo, would be enough to establish his reputation as an artist and as an excellent portrait painter if he had not earned it long ago. In the section for sculpture, the palm was borne off by our young artist, Manuel Gonzalez, whose majestic work, the Bust of General App. L.] VENEZUELAN FINE ARTS EXHIBITION. 247 Francisco Mejia, has justified the praises of all intelligent persons who have at mind the exactitude, fidelity, and expression so difficult in a portrait made of wood. His busts of Coquetry and Fear prove that Gonzalez is capable of revealing to the inert matter which he touches all the passions and sentiments of the human heart. The Lions in clay, executed by Senorita Dolores Ugarte, are beautiful works. In the photographs by Sefior Prospero Rey, there is a precision of line, a neatness, and a suavity of colour, which would lead the observer to think that an insensible machine could not produce images so per fect as those obtained by this clever but modest artist. Seiior Jose- Antonio Salas is of the same school as Rey, — good taste, purity, perfect resemblance, all is praiseworthy in his photographic work. It only remains for us to add some words about the picture of the Fountain of Pope Julius, which does not figure in the catalogue. This picture, which is very beautiful and highly finished, was brought at the last moment from the Valle, where its author, Seiior Manuel Cruz, lives. From this obscurity it was drawn by Senor Navarro y Canizares, a fellow-student with the artist at Rome under the celebrated Madrazo. At the present time Cruz is simply a workman concealing his artist face in the obscurity of the camp. The picture of his, just named, would honour any European collection. The exhibition was followed by a banquet given by Senor Spence to the Venezuelan, artists. It commenced at eight o'clock in the evening, and was attended by the persons of whom we have given a list. The reunion was a brilliant one ; the genial cordiality, the careful service, the splendid viands, all contributed to universal enthusiasm and happiness. The feast terminated about midnight, leaving in every breast the pleasantest emotions. Our country will never forget the gratitude it owes to her English guest, who has shown his love to Venezuela in acts like those of yesterday, and to the many friends who have responded worthily. Chronicle of the Banquet. Senor Spence expressed in feeling terms his satisfaction in seeing around him the artists whose talents had been receiving praise throughout the day from the numerous visitors who had beheld their works. He said that the execution of this idea owed less to himself than to the spontaneous co-operation of the friends present, 248 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. L. in whom he had ever found the most fervid enthusiasm for all that is grand and noble. He had resided a year and a half amongst them, and that period had been the happiest part of his life, and the experiences which he had passed through in the Republic war ranted him in testifying to the virtues of the Venezuelan people, displayed under circumstances most unfavourable, at the very time, in fact, when they were being tested by what appeared to be a cruel, demoralizing, and sanguinary civil war. Seiior A. L. Guzman, the orator, par excellence, of the Republic, responded in his happiest manner. He said that he had feared to awaken from one of those enchanting dreams in which the imagina tion called up golden illusions, but on awakening he encountered in reality all that was beautiful in the dream. He had seen a great nation which, having experienced a peace of centuries, had raised itself to the greatest height of civilization, progress, and power ; that its people had mixed their blood with ours in the great days of Independence, and that after this proof of generous sympathy they still desired to be our friend and guide in the work of progress which Venezuela has undertaken. That he had awakened from this enchanted dream and had seen Senor Spence, as though sent by noble England to give, with proofs like those they had to-day witnessed, a new testimony of the interest which she feels for our well-being. Seiior Ledo. Eduardo Calcano afterwards spoke, and having ex pressed his satisfaction for the generous efforts that Sefior Spence had made in favour of art in Venezuela, he defined in eloquent terms its mission, saying that our artists should draw their inspira tion from the incidents of our glorious War of Independence, and thus, whether they gave animation to the marble of the sculptor or life to the canvass and paper of the painter, they might hand down to posterity monuments in which our sons would behold eloquent examples that would raise their souls to noble as pirations. General Ramon de la Plaza, after some general views on the history and mission of art, said : — " Forty years have passed, and Venezuela sees for the first time, and even now under the protect ing segis of a stranger, an exhibition of the artistic work of her youth. Forty years, in which the stoical indifference of our govern ments has tried to drown that national genius for art, which after all has raised itself by the sole impulse of its own inspirations. Forty years, in which it has thought of everything except the App. L.] VENEZUELAN FINE ARTS EXHIBITION. 249 beneficial effects of ties between the nation and art, amongst a people essentially spiritual. " It is a consolation, however, to see presiding at this feast of art a representative of the new era commenced by General Guzman Blanco, and we have much to hope from his enlightenment and patriotism, knowing full well that nations fulfil the most innate of their necessities, and satisfy their justest aspirations, in the cultiva tion of the arts, which is the cultivation of the intellect." General Nicanor Bolet Peraza said that the best method of showing their gratitude to Sefior Spence for the stimulus and patronage which since his arrival upon our shores he had given to Venezuelan talent — a stimulus raised to the grandeur of the spectacle they saw around them, would be to prove that his concep tion had not perished from indifference, but, on the contrary, had germinated and increased, so that next July they might solemnize this anniversary with a new exhibition. That, he added, would not need any great effort, for if they brought the aspiration under the notice of the president of the Republic, it would be enough to secure its success, as was the case with the other proposals of a similar character, which were already on the programme of his administration. Dr. Terrero Atienza said that this being the first time that he had seen gathered together so many lovers of art, and the success ful realization of Seiior Spence's idea of an exhibition, was an appropriate occasion in which to point out the absurdity of a belief generally entertained and avowed by the press almost without contradiction. " It has often been said that we in Venezuela are destitute of logic, and that the results always mocked calculation and destroyed effort. This was false. In the physical, in the moral, and in the intellectual world, results always agree with causes ; actions are the certain consequences of principles or premises which have been allowed to predominate. The truth was, persons had called logic that which conformed to false judgment, to spurious desires, to calculations dictated by selfishness and ambition ; and in the work of insensate passion, by which they had wished to seat Falsehood upon the throne of Truth, the things which had come to pass appeared paradoxical. The republic had not existed in Vene zuela in reality, but only in name ; they had hunted down loyalty and patriotism, disguised under those names things Which were the opposite, and seeking in the region of facts for fallacious words, many had said there was no logic in Venezuela. The proof of 250 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. L. the contrary was, that scarcely was a Government installed which resembled the empire of truth, of good faith, of work, and of noble aspirations ; scarcely had confidence succeeded to fear before grand projects present themselves, and we were spectators of scenes like the beautiful and sublime spectacle which we owed to the efforts of Senor Spence, and of the many artists and lovers of art resident in Caracas. " Providence had decreed that in an epoch of regeneration for our country, a son of England, — the nation of good sense, — should come amongst us, and that, with that practical instinct which the English possess, he should understand that our nation would raise herself from her fall with greater vigour than ever to re-establish the equli- brium of interests, the reign of principle, and progress in all its forms." Senor A. L. Guzman again spoke, and graphically pictured the noble characteristics of the English people, and the great conquests which Right, peacefully discussed, had made in the long peace which wise England enjoyed, and called upon all to follow this civilized example. A new era was dawning for Venezuela, in which the weapons of discussion would be the only arms permitted in the war of aspirations. " Do this," said he ; " launch the republic in the free practice of the principles it has so dearly earned, and we shall see very soon the realization of the promise of regeneration, material and intellectual, which goal the present administration is striv ing to reach." Dr. Sanavria Baid that all that he had seen and heard on this occasion had given him the hope that the Government would meet with the requisite amount of co-operation to carry into execution the proposal to found an Institution of Fine Arts, and he would use this opportunity to ask from all present a formal promise to co operate frankly and energetically for the realization of this thought, which promised so many benefits to Venezuela. These words were most warmly received and crowned the general rejoicing, as the earnestness of the minister gave all the weight of a promise. The host then concluded the banquet with a few words, expres sive of the satisfaction he should experience by their sending to Europe two or three of the young artists present, that they might perfect themselves in the schools of the Old World, and return able to add lustre and honour to their country. App. L.] VENEZUELAN FINE ARTS EXHIBITION. 251 List of those present at the Banquet. Antonio L. Guzman, Minister of Foreign Affairs. Dr. Martin J. Sanavria, Minister of Public Works. Dr. Jesus Maria Paul, Governor of the Federal District. Dr. Diego Bautista Barrios, Secretary of the Minister of Foreign Relations. Dr. Santiago Terrero Atienza, Secretary of the Minister of Public Works. General Pedro Toledo Bermiidez, Secretary of the Governor of the Federal District. General Juan Francisco Perez, President of the State of Bolivar. Dr. Alejandro Ibarra, Rector of the University of Caracas. Dr. A. Ernst, President of the Society of Physical Science. Fausto Teodoro de Aldrey, ) „ t ,. . ,. _ ¦nriTT 11 n <.¦ ? Representatives of the Press. Rafael Hernandez Gutierrez, J r Heraclio M. de la Guardia (the Poet-Laureate of Venezuela). Robert P. Syers. General Leopoldo Terrero. Ledo. Eduardo Calcano. Luis Rigail. Martin Tovar y Tovar, artist. Miguel Navarro y Canizares, do. Manuel Cruz, do. J. Garcia Beltran, do. Manuel Otero, do. Dr. Jose Manuel Mauc6, do. Ramon Bolet, do. Ger6nimo Martinez, do. Francisco Davegno, do. Jose Antonio Salas, do. General Nicanor Bolet Peraza, do. H. Lisboa, do. General Andres A. Level, do. Manuel A. Gonzalez (sculptor), do. Luciano Urdaneta, do. General Ramon de la Plaza, do. Eduardo Blanco, do. Arfstides Este>es, do. Diego Casanas Burguillos, do. Pr6spero Rey, do. 252 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. L. Andres Socarras, artist. Carlos Alberto Izquierdo, do. Anton Goering, C.M.Z.S., do. I. Meseron y Aranda, proprietor of the Caf6 del Avila. Poem by Senor Heraclio M. de la Gtjardia, read by Senor E. Calcano after the Banquet. (Dedicated to Senor Spence.) Cuando el genio de America su frente Corone con los lauros de la gloria Y en el campo del Arte, fioreciente Digno sea su nombre de la historia, Al recuerdo lejano del presente De esta fiesta del alma hard memoria. Y habia de bendecir, en su fortuna Al que alent6 sus pasos en la cuna Ser hombres, combatir, veneer al cabo Y alzar libres la frente al firmamento Es ser un pueblo independiente y bravo, De noble iustinto y varonil aliento ; Mas no se rompe el yugo del esclavo Ni se cumple de Dios el pensamiento Si el Arte al fin con su poder fecundo No le da nombre, y lo pregona al mundo. Por eso Venezuela agradecida Al elevado fin que le senalas Al entrar del espiritu en la vida Viste feliz sus mas valiosas galas, Orespiisculos de aurora no sabida, Debil ensayo de atrevidas alas Que por falta de espacio, luz y aire No dejan el vergel del patrio Guaire. Mas hoi que en torno la discordia cesa Y tranquilo el espiritu, se lanza Tras de mas noble, generosa empresa A la voz de la paz y la esperanza, Digno se hara de la immortal promesa Que de su cuna el Arte a dar alcanza ; Y tu fecundo afecto sera un dia Orgullo y gloria de la patria mia. 28 de Julio. M. DECREE CONSTITUTING THE ISLANDS OF THE REPUBLIC OF VENEZUELA INTO A TERRITORY. (Translated from La Opinion Nacional, 23d August 187 1.) Antonio Guzman Blanco, Provisional President of the Republic, dec. dec. By virtue of the powers intrusted to me by the Congress of Pleni potentiaries of the States for the promotion of the public good, and for considering — 1. That according to the 2 2d section of Article 43, it belongs to the Federal Power to establish, under the title of territories, special rules for the temporary government of regions either uninhabited or inhabited by uncivilized natives, making such territories to be depen dent directly upon the Executive of the Union. 2. That the opportunity has now come of improving the adminis tration of the islands hereafter named. It is decreed, — Art. I. There shall be a territory called " Colon," subject to a special rule, and dependent upon the Federal Executive, and includ ing the following islands : — 1. The island of the bay of La Esmeralda. 2. The group of Los Frailes, nine miles to the north-east of Margarita. 3. The islet La Sola, twelve miles to the north-east of the largest of the Los Frailes. 4. The group of Los Hermanos, forty miles to the north of the west portion of Margarita. 5. The islands of Venados, Caraca del Este, Caraca del Oeste, Picudas, Chimanas, Borrachas, and also the islets between Cumana and Barcelona. 254 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. M. 6. The Arapos islands, half a mile to the west-north-west of the Punta de la Cruz. 7. The isle of Monos and the islets of the bay of Pertigalete. 8. The islets of Piritu, twelve miles to the west of the mouth of the river Neveri, and three and half from the mainland. 9. The islet Farallon or Centinela off Cabo Codera. 10. The islet of Ocumare, at the north-east of the bay of the same name. 11. The islands and islets situated from Turiamo to the rocks of San Juan inclusive. 12. The island and rocks of Orchila, seventy-two miles to the north of Cabo Codera. 13. The group of Los Roques, twenty-two miles to the west o.f Orchila. 14. The two groups of Aves, thirty miles to the west of Los Roques. 15. The group of Los Monges, from nineteen to thirty miles to the north, 75° east from the Cabo de Chichivacoa. Art. II. The territory of " Colon " shall be under the authority of a civil and military Governor, according to separate decrees to be dictated for the political and military government of the territory. Art. III. There shall be put at the disposition of the Governor one of the ships of war of the nation, in order that he may examine the islands, select that which may be best adapted for his residence, and dictate provisionally what he may think necessary givin0, account of all to the Federal Executive. Art. IV. With the Governor there shall be sent a scientific com mission, charged to make the investigations indicated by the Minister of Public Works. Art. V. The Governor shall present to the national Executive a circumstantial report of the islands, according to the observations which shall have been made, and shall propose all the regulations and other dispositions which he shall think fit for the organization and government of the territory of '* Colon." Art. VI. The salary and expenses of the Governor shall be fixed by a separate resolution — the same to be paid by the Public Treasury. App. M.] ISLANDS OF THE REPUBLIC. 255 Art. VII. The Minister of Public Works is charged with the execution of the present decree. Given, under my hand, and countersigned by the Minister of Public Works at Caracas, August 22, 1871 — 8th and 13th. (Signed) A. Guzman Blanco. Countersigned by the Minister of Public Works. (Signed) Martin J. Sanavria. A true copy. (Signed) S. Terrero Atienza, Secretary of the Minister of Public Works. N. GOVERNMENT CONCESSIONS FOR THE WORKING OF THE COAL MINES OF THE NARICUAL, STATE OF NUEVA BARCELONA, VENEZUELA. (Translation by Mr. Wm. A. Andral.) Office of Public Works, Caracas, October 5, 1871. Decree. Whereas Mr. James M. Spence has solicited from the Govern ment the grant of certain franchises for the projected working of some coal mines, the property of Senora Clara Marrero de Monagas, and situated in the parish of Aragiiita in the State of Barcelona, the Government, desirous to promote the progress of the country, decrees : ist. Vessels arriving at Barcelona loaded either entirely or at least half with machinery, tools, and instruments for the working of the coal mines, and the transport of the coals to the port, shall pay no tonnage dues. 2d. The articles specified in the foregoing numbers shall be free of import duty. 3d. In order that the articles mentioned in Nos. 1 and 2 may enjoy said franchise, they shall be stamped in the manufactory with a mark of the mining company, a facsimile of which shall be deposited in the office of this ministry and in that of the Custqm- House of Barcelona. 4th. The articles imported for the quarrying and transporting of the mineral to the harbour shall be employed exclusively in the works, and it shall not be allowed to offer them for sale, nor em ploy them for other purposes. All the objects which should be employed in a manner different from the one stated shall forfeit the App. N.] CONCESSIONS TO COAL MINES. 257 franchise of free importation, and likewise all those of the same description which afterwards might be imported. 5th. The mining company shall give security to the Custom House for the amount of duty on the articles imported for the working of the mines, as if they were not free of duty, and when ever an importation is made an authenticated copy of the invoice is to be presented, in order that tho Government may declare that the imported articles belong to those included in the foregoing numbers, and give orders to cancel the security. 6th. Sailing vessels and steamers arriving in ballast for coal, and actually loading, shall not pay any tonnage dues either on their arrival or on their departure. 7th. Steamers touching at the port in order to take in coal shall not pay any tonnage dues either on their arrival or on their depar ture although they be loaded, provided no goods are landed. 8th. By the fact of making use of these concessions the company shall be obliged to sell to the Government the coal required for the use of the navy at 5 per cent, under the current market price. 9th. These concessions shall be forfeited if the working of the mines is not begun within a period of twenty months from this date. nth. The foregoing concessions in no case whatever shall be come the subject of international claims. Be this communicated to the interested party. (Signed) Martin J. Sanavria. For the President. (For right copy.) (Signed) Santiago Terrero Atienza, Secretary of the Minister of Public Works. vol. ii. o. CONCESSION OF THE ISLANDS OF VENEZUELA FOR THE EXTRACTION OF MINERAL PHOSPHATES. Translation by Senor Rafael Seijas. Martin J. Sanavria, the Minister of Public Works of the United States of Venezuela, being specially authorized by the Provisional President of the Republic on the one part, and James M. Spence, a British subject, on the other, has concluded the following contract : — Article i. The Venezuelan Government grants to James M. Spence, and his lawful successors or partners, permission to ship, to the exclusion of any other enterprise, whether individual or joint, from the Roques Islands, being a part of the territory of Colon, the phosphatic mineral in its natural state which may exist thereon. Article 2. This permit to last twenty-one years from this date. Article 3. The Venezuelan Government grants likewise to James M. Spence, his partners or successors, permission to ship for the same time phosphatic mineral from the Orchila island ; but this grant does not exclude other enterprises which may obtain from the Government a similar permit. Article 4. James M. Spence engages to pay during the first three years of this contract, to the Venezuelan Government, a hundred and twelve Venezuelan cents for each ton of 2240 pounds in weight, of phos phatic mineral in its natural state, which he may ship from the abovenamed islands. The cost of working, carriage, and maritime transport, or any other expense connected therewith, to be borne by the said James M. Spence. App. O.] CONCESSION OF ISLANDS. 259 Article 5. At the end of the first three years, and from that time forward (every three years), the Venezuelan Government and James M. Spence shall appoint each an arbitrator, and the persons so ap pointed shall select an umpire in order that they, on inspection of. the then ruling prices of phosphates, may fix the value of each ton of the mineral for the three years ensuing, in doing which they shall be governed by the proportion which the then ruling prices bear to the average prices maintained during the previous three years of this contract, so that the value of said mineral in its natural state will rise or decrease according to the like ratio of its rising or decreasing in its markets. For the purposes of this stipulation the prices of phosphates in England is hereby fixed at one shilling and one penny and a half per unit of phosphate of lime which the mineral may contain. Article 6. On account of said working, James M. Spence shall advance a sum of Eight thousand dollars ( Venezolanos), to be paid into the national treasury on this contract being signed, either in cash or in a bill of exchange upon England. Article 7. The extraction of Guano from the Venezuelan Islands having been contracted for with an American company, and mineral phosphate being quite different from guano, James M. Spence concurs with the Venezuelan Government that the rights of the above company are not affected by the extraction of phosphates, — the subject matter of this contract. Article 8. The vessels which the enterprise may send to the Los Roques Islands or to Orchila when transporting solely materials for the construction of buildings, wharves, and other works of the enterprise, as well as the instruments, implements, and machinery necessary to the working referred to in this contract, shall pay no duty on any account ; the national officers on the island shall require only a statement of the things imported. Article 9. On the vessels of the enterprise bringing from abroad victuals and provisions for its consumption, either on the Roques Islands or 260 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. O. on Orchila, the master of the vessel or the manager of the enter prise on said islands, shall exhibit to the government officer there for the time being the manifest of the cargo ; and as soon as the victuals or provisions are examined by him, he shall express at the bottom of the manifest the correctness thereof, and shall transmit it to the Custom House at La Guayra that it may liquidate the import duties, and collect from the agents to be established by James M. Spence, either at La Guayra or Caracas, the duties accrued according to the Venezuelan laws. Article 10. The vessels of the enterprise going to the aforesaid islands to take cargoes of the mineral shall not be liable to any port dues. AHicle n. The masters of the vessels referred to in the preceding article shall make a manifest in writing, and signed, wherein they shall specify the name of the vessel, her flag, and the number approxi mately of the tons of phosphatic mineral which they may have on board. Such a manifest in original shall be received by the national officer on the respective island, and by him sent to the Custom House at La Guayra on the first fitting opportunity. Article 12. James M. Spence engages to have the amount of the weight of the cargo mineral verified at the port of her destination, with the intervention of the fiscal authority there, and of the Consul of the Republic, if there be one on the spot. This authenticated act shall be forwarded by James M. Spence or his agents to the Custom House at La Guayra, by the first English packet, after the arrival of the vessel at the port of destination. Article 13. On receiving the manifest spoken of in the 12th Article, the Custom House at La Guayra shall proceed immediately to liquidate the credit of the nation arising out of the value of the cargo of phosphatic mineral, bearing in mind the prices established and to be established agreeably to this contract. The agent or agents to be appointed by James M. Spence at La Guayra or at Caracas shall pay in cash the amount of such a liquidation as soon as the advance referred to in Article the 6th is discounted. App. O.] CONCESSION OF ISLANDS. 261 Article 14. The Custom House at La Guayra shall every six months form another liquidation of the credit accruing to the nation out of the value of the cargoes of mineral, calculated at the rates fixed and to be fixed as per this contract ; and on inspection of the authenticated acts referred to in the 12 th Article, either party shall pay to the other in cash any balance which may result from- a comparison between such a liquidation and the manifests relating to the same cargoes. Article 15. James M. Spence engages to present to the Minister of Public Works, every six months, a sworn statement of the cargoes of phos phatic mineral, with specifications of the names of the vessels, their tonnage, flag, names of the masters, cargoes of the mineral in weight, and foreign port in which the cargoes have been landed. Article 16. The Venezuelan Government shall be at liberty to take such other measures as it may deem indispensable to secure the fiscal interests on Los Roques islands and Orchila ; therefore, though the vessels of the enterprise are not bound to proceed to La Guayra, or any other port on the mainland for clearance, provided they engage in the traffic permitted under the contract, if any of these vessels become guilty of smuggling she shall be sent to La Guayra for trial according to the laws of the republic. Article 17. In the event of the Venezuelan Government being willing to con tract with any other person or company for the working of the phosphatic mineral on any of the other islands belonging to the republic, it shall make known either to James M. Spence, or his successors or partners, or his agents or attorneys at Caracas or La Guayra, all the conditions of the intended bargain, and should any of the same offer, within fifty days' time, to comply with all those conditions, they shall be preferred and the Government shall be bound to conclude the respective contract. Article 18. At the expiration of this contract the buildings and works of an immovable nature shall become the property of the nation. 262 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. O. Article 19. Whatever doubts and controversies may arise shall be decided by ths courts and under the laws of the republic, nor shall they, in any case and on any account whatsoever, be made matter of inter national claims. Done in duplicate to one intent alone at Caracas, on the twentieth of July One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two. (Signed) Martin J. Sanavria. (Signed) James M. Spence. LIST OF PUBLIC WORKS IN PROGRESS IN VENEZUELA, DECEMBER 1 873. (Fortnightly Review.)* (La Opinion Nacional, 8th December 1873.) We have the greatest pleasure in announcing to our foreign readers, that the Republic is enjoying perfect peace, liberty and legality. To form a correct idea of the colossal proportions in which pro gress is increasing throughout the country, we publish a resume of the principal Works which are being carried out with the greatest activity. The Capitol. — A handsome massive building of the Doric order, erected in 90 days, for the Legislative Body to celebrate its session ; this is the largest building in Caracas. The Water-Works and Aqueduct Gazman Blanco. — Supplies Cara cas with water, and is 45,000 metres in length. Promenade Guzman Blanco.. — The barren hill formerly called the Calvary has been turned into a most beautiful promenade, offering a magnificent and extensive panorama. Within a few years the trees, and shrubbery, now planted, will form an agreeable walk, equal to any to be found in Europe. The Aqueduct of Coro. — These Water-Works were constructed during the administration of Marshall J. C. Falcon, but require some important repairs both as regards the dam and in the drains. These repairs having been granted, are being carried out with rapidity. Custom - house of la Vela. — This is the finest building in the State of Falcon. — General Guzmon Blanco ordered its construction and it was concluded to celebrate the 28th of October last. The alameda of Maiquetia, having been formeerly awfully neglected, Government appointed a committee intrusted with its * Verbatim. 264 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. P. care and preservation, so that this promenade is at present in a flourishing state. The alameda of La Guaira which was also much neglected, has been taken in hand by Government, and considerably improved and supplied with numerous lamps. The Alameda of Puerto Cabello, has been kept in good order, with the funds provided by the Board of public works for its preserva tion and amelioration. The Streets of Cardcas, have almost all been repaved, laying slabs to the largest portion of the blocks which had none. The Streets of Valencia, — A considerable sum of money has been laid out in their repair. The Streets of Puerto Cabello. In this town streets have been made where none existed, having to contend with the greatest difficulties. The Streets of the Valle. — The Valle is a town in the vicinity of Caracas, to which many families resort for change of air, its streets not having been repaired for long, were in a deplorable state, the principal ones have now been repaired, by which this pretty little town, which is becoming notorious for its baths, has been much improved. The northern mide-road, which unites Caracas to La Guaira, crossing the Cordillera, was constructed by the Spaniards, required important repairs, which have been carried into effect, and there are constantly numerous gangs of labourers keeping it in repair. The canal of the Gudrico, is intended to bring the waters of the River Guarico to the State " Guzman Blanco." A competent Engineer is making the necessary survey for this important work. Bringing the waters of the River San Juan to the town of Para- para. — The necessary survey for this purpose is also being made, and the needful funds have been applied to carry out this project. Water for the State " Bruzual." — One of the districts of Caracas bears the name of the hero of Puerto Cabello. This popolation de manded of the Government the necessary water-pipes to bring the water, which were brought out,, however, from neglect little or nothing has been done, we are informed, therefore, that the Government will undertake this enterprise. The High-road of " Agua Caliente," which unites Valencia with Puerto Cabello. — The rains made this road intransitable : large sums have been laid out on its repairs, which are nearly terminated. High-road from Valencia to San Gdrlos. — San Carlos is the App. P.] LIST OF PUBLIC WORKS. 265 capital of the State of " Cojedes " and the key to the Llanos. To unite this State to Valencia has been a happy thought ; the works are proceeding with activity and in two months will be concluded. The High-road from Puerto Cabello to San Felipe. — The State of Yaraqui is one of the most productive of the Republic, but it had to contend with the want of Roads connecting it with the sea-coast : this is the object of the present Road, where it is not only neces sary to struggle with the difficulties of the formation of the Country, but also with the unwholesomeness of the climate, at a certain spot on the Coast. All difficulties have however been conquered, and the two towns will soon be united, as the works are proceeding at the same time from Puerto Cabello to San Felipe, and vice-versa. The High-road from Cardcas to Petare. — A sum of money is laid out monthly in preserving and improving this road, a Bridge which was much needed, has been lately built. High-road from Petare to Mariches. — This branch road so much required for the transport of the produce of the Crops, which are so abundant on the high-lands of the State of " Bolivar." The Western-road, unites Cardcas to La Victoria. — A Board has the management of this Road, and many hands are daily employed, preserving and improving it. The Northern High-road, connects la Guaira with Cardcas. — The constant traffic of this road, and the immense defects of its original construction, which took place in the time the Tory's were in power, — renders it necessary to spend considerable sums on its constant repair. The High-road to Charayave, which unites Cardcas with the valleys of the Tuy. — It is long since this road has been undertaken without obtaining any satisfactory results. The Illustrius American, Guz man Blanco, decided that it should be carried out, and the road was made, the present works only tend to improve a part that was badly layed out in the time of the Tory government. The High-road from Charayave to Cua. — This is an important branch-road which unites two towns and is already concluded. The High-road from Cua to Ocumare, was commenced and termi nated under the present Administration. The High-road from Charallave to Santa Lucia. — The works on this branch-road continue, with activity and it will not be long before they are concluded. The High-road to Paracotos, was only commenced a few days since. 266 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. P. The High-road from Cua to the " Guarico." — This is a new line which opens the traffic of the high-lands with the Llanos, and which will shortly change the situation of the rich Valley of the Tuy, the necessary survey having been made, these works have already commenced. The High-road from Ciudad de Cur a to Calabozo, places the States of Guzman Blanco, Guarico, and Apure in communication, this road is already far advanced, having overcome the principal difficulties. The Higlirroad from Ocumare to the Llanos, via Caramacate. This road also unites the Valleys of the Tuy with the Llanos, and will produce immense advantages, these works have commenced. The Higli-road Guzman Blanco, starts from the city of Barcelona and ends at Soledad, opposite Ciudad Bolivar, the capital of the State of Guayana. This road progresses rapidly, and General Guzman Blanco expects that it will be concluded in a few months. The High-road from Merida to the lake of Mdracaibo. The States of the Cordillera having no debouche ; its commerce suffers considerably from the want of so important a road, which is already begun. The High-road of Guama. — General Guzman Blanco is deter mined that this road, which has been commenced, since time imme morial, shall speedily be terminated, not only on accoun tof the advantages it will afford to the States of the Cordillera, but that it will in a great measure simplify the question of limits with ¦ Columbia. The High-road from Maturin to Cano Colorado. — Carlo Colorado is the port where goods proceeding to Maturin are landed ; there they are transshipped to small crafts which ascend the River Guara- piche with great difficulty and expense. When once this road is open these difficultiee will cease, it will be concluded befors march. The High-road from la Guaira to Maiquetia. — This short road has been intransitable until lately, since when it has been perfec- tioned, as well as the Street of Maquetia, through which it passes. The Highroad of La Guaira to Macuto, has been totally reformed, and remains perfect. The Census. This is the first that has been thoroughly carried out in the Republic, and is of itself a Work of sufficient importance to raise the pride of Government. It was carried into effect on the 6th 7th and 8th of November. App. P.] LIST OF PUBLIC WORKS. 267 The Exhibition of Vienna. For the first time the products of Venezuela have been worthily represented abroad. — 23 prizes fell to its lot in the distribution. The waters of the River Apure to form one single branch. The engineer, who went to Paris for the purpose of procuring the neces sary machinery for this work, has just returned, so that in a short time it will be in operation. The Rail-road from Caracas to the Sea. — The Survey and Sec tions are being concluded, and in January the inauguration of the works will take place. The Lazaretto of Caracas. — This important work, which was brought to a stand for a few days, from the want of materials, has again commenced. Immigration. — Government will commence to occupy itself with this important matter, which is being studied by special commissions, who are to inform the Executive, concerning the means to be adopted. Public Slaughter ¦ house of Caracas, this building will be ter minated within two months. Furniture for the Federal palace, has been ordered from Europe, (of an appropriate kind.) The Plaza Bolivar, is the general center of all that is beautifull and youthful, thanks to the warm interest the Government has taken in it. The Bridge Guzman Blanco, unites the parishes of the Cathedral and Candelaria in this City, and is concluded. The Bridge of Curamichate, embellishes the Southern entrance of Caracas, it is finished. The Bridge of Carlo Amarillo, at the entrance of Guzman Blanco promenade, is finished. The Temple of San Felipe. — Government has appropriated one hundred thousand Venezuelans for this building, the works pro ceed with activity. The Temples of Barbacoas, Piritu, Clarines, Barcelona, Curata- quiche, Pozuelos, San Diego, Aragiiita, and San Bernardino, have been assisted with different sums of money to be invested in the repairs they require. The Temples of Caracas have been endowed with rich and adequate ornaments. The Masonic Temple.— -Government has decreed the finishing of this extensive building, and the Committee in charge is provided with the necessary funds. 268 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. P. Front elevation of the University. — This is a handsome gothic monument, and the only one of this style in the country. It may be said that it is finished, as what remains to be done is trifling. The Port Guzman Blanco. — In the State of Barcelona, requires expensive works, as it is necessary to dredge the Bay, build a Coustom-house, a warf and a Road to unite it with Barcelona. The whole of these works are to be finished in march. The Statue of the Libertador, is being cast in Europe, is already paid for, and will be inaugurated next year. Bridge over the River of Manzariares. — The town of Cumana is divided by this River, therefore its importance will be easily under stood, it is to be concluded in January. Port Sucre, Cumana. — Requires a Custom-house, a warf, a Light house, and a Buoy to be fixed at the point of Araya, also to repair the road which unites it with the town. These works are to be concluded by April. The Portraits of the prominent Men of the war of Independanee, and those of the Presidents of Venezuela, have been contracted for, and will be executed in Paris by a Venezuelean artist, who will deliver them up in the course of next year. Works to be executed in the district of Rivero, State of Cumana. — To canalize the River Carinicuao, build a Bridge across the River, lay out a Road from the Gulf to Caripe, and the irrigation of the lands bordering the River. These works have been commenced. The aqueduct of Guanare, has been ordered to be constructed, and the Committee intrusted with the work, has the funds necessary. The Aqueduct of Barquesimeto. — The engineer intrusted with this work has already been dispatched. Coal Mines of Barcelona. — For the necessary workings of these mines an engineer has been sent for from London, who is to make the surveys. School of sculpture.- — The opening of this establishment having been decreed, it has already been effected. The acueduct of Valencia having been ordered to be constructed by Government, must already be commenced. The alameda of San Juan in Caracas, an especial committee has been appointed to lay out and enclose it. The Barracks of San Carlos, the important repairs ordered have been executed. Territory of Amazones. — An engineer will proceed to this country to explore it as far as necessary, as former governments have at- App. P.] LIST OF PUBLIC WORKS. 269 tended but little to this point, and a Committee of public works has been named to construct the public buildings and roads that may be required. Lazaretto of Cumand. — This institution possesses the needful funds for its support and amelioration. Public Works at Carupano. — The repairs of the Warf, the public buildings and the fight-house, have been ordered, and by this time will have been concluded. Irrigation from the River Manzanares, which was decreed by the President. — The necessary surveys have been made, and the works will shortly be inaugurated. Road from Cumand to Maturin. — Last month this work was commenced, it is a costly enterprise, and will require time. Navigation of the " Uribante " and High-road from Vivas to San Cristtbal. — These two enterprises will open the communications with the States of the Cordillera, Zamora, Apure, and Guayana, and will give new life to the commerce of these districts, both are pro ceeding with rapidity. High-road from Coro of Barquisimeto. — This road has been layed out and already begun. Plaza " Guzman Blanco " in Valencia. — Government has granted the payment of the railings and the column they are to enclose, which have been ordered abroad. Road from Cumand to Urica. — The survey is being made to lay out this line. High-road from Puerto de Tobias to Nueva Providencia. — This road which has been at a stand for some time past, has been taken in hand by the Government, and supplied with funds for its con clusion, which will be in three months. Pontoon-floating light-house on the Orinoco. — The vessel to be used for this purpose is being prepared, and in January it will be fixed at its station. Works of the State of Zamora. — Government has decreed the following : The Dredging of the River Santo Domingo, and clearing it of several obstacles which impede its navigation. Canalizing of the River Canagua, and bringing all its waters to the branch which passes through " Delgadito " dike. The repairs of the house which is to serve as the national College of Barinas. The construction of a Bridge over the River Santo Domingo, at 270 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. P. the sortie of the town ; and laying out the road from Barinas to Barinitas, so as to make it a good high-road. It can be easily understood that with all the foregoing enterprises the resources of the Republic are daily increasing, and accounts for the warm support and enthousiasm with which, all classes of the people of Venezuela, second the Presidents propositions of regenera tion, causing the great prestige he enjoys. We conclude our present review by informing our foreign readers, that the eminent democrat, Hector F. Varela, after having been the object of the most enthusiast demostrations, admiration and esteem on his arrival, both in this capital and La Guaira, — in the midst of the feasts to the Liberator, — has since taken a trip through the States Guzman Blanco, and Carabobo, in which he was received with splendid triumphs, which prove, how well the american people kuow how to appreciate, all this illustrious orator of Geneva has done, for the honour of the american cause, both proving his eloquence in the tribune, and in the columns of El Americano. He is once more in our capital, having returned from his trium phant excursion, and this enlightened city continues offering him proofs of its gratitude, and its fraternal affection. Q. SELECT LIST OF BOOKS, PAMPHLETS, MAPS, AND MANU SCRIPTS RELATING TO VENEZUELA. i. Acosta. Cuestion de Retracto Convencional. Niimero extraor- dinario de " El Toro." Por Cecilio Acosta. Cardcas, i860. 4to, pp. 14. 2. Acosta. Doctrina Federal y Leys secundarias. Por Cecilio Acosta. Caracas, 1869. 8vo, pp. 108. 2a. Acosta, F. de P. See Rojas, and Vargasia. 3. Aecio. Un Drama en Caracas, Novela de Costumbres, por Aecio [seud6nimo]. Puerto-Cabello. 8vo, pp. Ii. 322. 4. Agricidtor Venezolano. See Diaz. 4«. Aguirre, Lope de. See Simon, and Southey. 5. Aldrey. Cuestion de Derecho publico internacional de Vene zuela (Sobre derechos y deberes de los estranjeros residentes y transeuntes en Venezuela). Fausto Theodoro de Aldrey. Caracas, 1865. 8vo, pp. 60. 5a. Agriculture. See Cafe, Codazzi, Colombia, Cultivo, Diaz, Engel, Ernst, Larrazabal, and Madriz. 6. Alfonzo. La revolucion de 1867 a 1868, por Luis Ger6nimo Alfonzo. Caracas, 1868. 8vo, pp. 32. 7. Almanaque. Almanaque portatil para el ano de 1869 y guia de la Ciudad de Caracas. Caracas, 1868. 8vo, pp. 67. 8. Almanaque. Almanaque para todos de Rojas Hermanos, para el ano de 1872. Caracas. 12 mo, pp. 128. 9. Alpine Journal. The Pico de Naiguata, Venezuela (August 1872). Account of its first ascent (November 1872). 10. Appun. Unter den Tropen. Wanderungen durch Venezuela, am Orinoco, durch Britisch Guyana und am Amazonenstrome in den Jahren 1849- 1868. Von Carl Ferdinand Appun. Erster Band : Venezuela. Jena, 1871. 8vo, pi. n. Apure. Diario hist6rico de la Campaiia de Apure en 1837. Caracas, 1837. 8vo, pp. 50. 12. Arancel. Arancel de Derechos de Importacion arreglado al sistema metrico decimal. Edicion oficial. Caracas, 1870. 8vo, pp. 93. 13. Arrowsmith. West Indies (Map). By J. Arrowsmith. Lon don, 1858. 272 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. Q. 13a. Atlas. See Codazzi. 14. Aveledo. Observaciones meteorol6gicas en Caracas, ano de 1868. Leido en la Sociedad de Ciencias ffsicas y naturales de Caracas, en la sesion del 1 de Febrero de 1869, por Agustin Aveledo. 8vo, pp. 4. 14a. Aveledo. See Vargasia. 15. Arvelo. Poesias del Venezolano R. Arvelo. Caracas, 1867. 8vo, pp. 104. 16. Ateneo (el). Periodico quincenal de ciencias literatura y artes. Tomo. I. Caracas, 1854. 4to, pp. 124. 1 6a. Austria. See Montilla. 17. Austria. UnRecuerdo de Bolivar, por Jos6 Austria. Caracas, 1835. 8vo> PP- 63- 17a. Austria. Bosquejo de la Historia militar de Venezuela en la Guerra de su Independencia. Por Colonel Jos6 de Austria. Tomo I. (complete). Caracas, 1855. 8vo, pp. 390. 176. Aves. See Briceiio. 18. Avila. Biografia del Doctor Jose' Cecilio Avila, por Juan Vicente Gonzalez. Caracas, 1858. 8vo, pp. 67. Portrait. 1 8a. Banco de Venezuela. See Documentos. 19. Baralt y Diaz. Resiimen de la Historia de Venezuela desde el descubrimiento, hasta el ano 1797, por Rafael Maria Baralt. Ha cooperado a el en la parte relativa a los guerras de la conquista de la Costa Firme el Senor Ramon Diaz. Paris, 1 84 1. 8vo, pp. 448. Portraits. 20. Baralt y Diaz. Resiimen de la Historia de Venezuela desde el ano de 1797, hasta el de 1830, por Rafael Maria Baralt y Ramon Diaz. Paris, 1841. 8vo, 2 vols. Portraits. 21. Baralt y Urbaneja. Catecismo de la historia de Venezuela, desde el descubrimiento de su terretorio in 1498, hasta su emancipacion politica de la monarquia espaiiola en 181 1. Compuesto por Rafael M. Baralt y Manuel M. Urbaneja. Caracas, 1865. i8mo, pp. 94. 21a. " Barima." Manifiesto justificative de la conducta del Go- bierno en esta cuestion. Por Diego Braulio Barrios y Mariano Briceiio. Caracas, 1841. 8vo, pp. 23. 22. Baring Bros. See Venezuelan Loan. 23. Bdrrios. See " Barima." 24. Becerra. El general Jose' Tadeo Monagas. Apuntes biogrfi- ficos. Documentos polfticos. Funerales. Honores oficiales. Por Ricardo Becerra. Edicion oficial. Caracas, 1868. 4to, pp. xl. 46. 25. Bello, Andres. Coleccion de Poesias originales, con apuntes biograficos, por J. M. Torres Caicedo. Caracas, 1870. 1 2 mo, pp. 302. Portrait. 26. Bello, Andres, Venezolano, Silva Americana. La Agricultura de la Zona torrida. Caracas, 1863. i6mo, pp. 15. 27. Benites. Princfpios para la Materia M^dica del pais en forma App. Q.] SELECT LIST OF BOOKS. 273 de diccionario, por J. Maria Beuites. Caracas, 1844. 8vo, pp. 80. 2 7a. Birds. See Sclater. 28. Blanco, G. Informe sobre la epidemia reinante presentado al Poder Ejecutivo, por Dr. Ger6nimo Blanco. Caracas, 1853. 8vo, pp. 19. 29. Blanco, A. G. Exposicion que dirije el General Guzman Blanco, al Congreso de Plenipotenciarios de los Estados. Cardcas, 1870. 8vo, pp. 16. 30. Blanco, A. G. See Codigo, Catalogo, and Guzman Blanco. 30a. Blanco, M. See Yangues. 306. Bohn. See Humboldt. 30c. Bolet, R. See Rothe, and Terrero. 31. Bolet, N. Memoria sobre los efectos de las pildoras tocol6gicas en la curacion de los abortos. Por Dr. Nicanor Bolet. Cardcas, 1867. 8vo, pp. 20. With a lithograph plate. 32. Bolet, N. La Salud de la Mujer conservada, por las pildoras tocol6gicas del Dr. Nicanor Bolet. Cardcas, 187 1. 8vo, pp. 24. 33. Bolet Peraza. A Falta de Pan, buenos son Tortas. Comedia de costumbres, en un acto, original. Por Nicanor Bolet Peraza. Cardcas, 1873. 8vo, pp. 21. 34. Bolet Peraza. See Spence. 35. Bolet, H. Museo Venezolano. Tomo I. Bolet Hermanos edit- ores. Cardcas, 1866. 4to. This excellent periodical termi nated at the 24th number. 36. Bolivar. Campana del Peru, por el Ejercito Unido Liberta dor, d las 6rdenes del ihmortal Bolivar en los anos de 1823-24-25, con [3] mapas, por Manuel Antonio Lopez. Cardcas, 1843. 8vo, pp. 86. 37. Bolivar. Correspondencia General del Libertador Simon Bolivar enriquecida con la, insercion de los manifiestos, mensages, exposiciones, proclamas, &c. &c, publicados por el heroe Colombiano desde 1810, hasta 1830. Precede d esta col^ccion interesante la Vida de Bolivar. New York, 1865. 8vo. 2 vols. Portrait and facsimile. These two vols. contain only the life of Dr. Felipe Larrazdbal. 38. Bolivar. Efemdridas Colombianos sobre Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, que formaron en uno tiempo una sola republica. Paris, 1870. 8vo, pp. 140. There is a second title as follows : — Raciocinios del Libertador Simon Bolivar sobre Religion, Politica, Educacion, y Filosofia, 6 Diari6 de Bucara- manga, por La Croix. Paris, 1869. 39. Bolivar. Los Fiinerales y la Apoteosis de Bolivar. Produc- ciones escojidas del Senor Antonio L. Guzman. 7a edicion en Cardcas el 28 de Octubre de 1872. 8vo, pp. 84. Portrait. 40. Bolivar. Proclamas del Libertador Simon Bolivar. Cardcas, 1842. 8vo, pp. [vi.] 64. vol. 11. S 274 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. Q. 41. Bolivar. La Ultima Enfermedad, los ultimos momentos y los funerales de Simon Bolivar, Libertador de Colombia y de Peru, por su medico de Cabacera el Dr. A. P. Reverend. Paris, 1 866. 8vo, pp. 64. Portrait and view of S. Pedro Alejandrino. 42. Bolivar and, Washington. See Urdaneta. 42a. Bolivar. See Austria, Guzman, and Syers. 426. Bollaert. See Simon. 43. Bonpland, A. See Ernst, and Humboldt. 43a. Bourgoin. See Vargasia. 44. Bovadilla. Viaje que hizo Don Francisco Ferndndez de Bovadilla desde la Guayana al Alto Orinoco. Original y firmado. MS. In the collection of the author. 44a. Brasil. See Briceiio, Documentos, and Michelena. 45. Briceiio. Memoria justificativa de la conducta del Gobierno de Venezuela en la question Isla de Aves, presentada al Exemo. Sefior Secretario de Estado de los Estados Unidos. Por el Enviado Estraordinario y Ministro Plenipotenciario de Venezuela, Dr. Mariano Briceiio. Cardcas, 1858. 4to, pp. 28. 46. Briceiio. Limites del Brasil con Venezuela, Nueva Granada, Ecuador, y Peru. Por Mariano de Bricefio. Cardcas, 1854. 121110, pp. 36. 47. Briceiio. See " Barima." 47a. Cacao. See Cafe. 48. Cafe. Memoria de los abonos, cultivo y beneficios que nece- sitan los diversos valles de la provincia de Cardcas para la plantacion de Caf6. Instruccion para el gobierno de las haciendas de Cacdo. Cardcas, 1833. 4to, pp. 90. Plate. 48a. Cafe. See Madriz, and Schoeffer. 49. Caicedo. See Bello. 50. Calcano. El Lenador. Legenda Americana. Por Jose' An tonio Calcano. Cardcas, 1857. 8vo. pp. 40. 51. Cale.ndario. Calendario Manual y Guia universal de Foras- teros en Venezuela,, para el ano de 1810. Cardcas en la imprenta de Gallagher y Lamb. 8vo, pp. 64. This rare work is one of the oldest specimens of Venezuelan printing. ^la.Cana Dulce. See Engel. 52. Cardcas. See Constituciones, Contestation, Diaz, Ernst, Larrazdbal, Manuscript, and Revenga. 53. Cardcas. Reglamento general del "Club Union." Cardcas, 1871. 8vo. pp. 8. 53a. Caratal Gold Fields. See Foster. 54. Cdrdenas. See Garcia. 55. Carreiio. Manual de urbanidad y buenas maneras, para un de la juventud de ambos sexos. . . Por Manuel Antonio Carreiio. Cardcas, 1853. 8vo, pp. xvi. and 318. App. Q.] SELECT LIST OF BOOKS. 275 56. Castillo. Teatro de la Legislation Colombiana y Venezolana vigente. Por Dr. P. P. del Castillo. Cardcas, 1852. 3 vols, 4to, pp. 592, 549, 412. 56a. Casas. See Defensa. 57. Castro. Confesion de Julian Castro y Sentencia de la Nation Venezolana. Ano de 1858. Cardcas. 8vo, pp. 29. A political satire on a former President of the Republic. 58. Catalogo. De los cuadros, fotografias y esculturas espuestas en la primera esposicion venezolana auual llevada d cabo en 1872, bajo los auspicios de los senores Jeneral A. Guzman Blanco, Presidente provisional de la Repiiblica, Ministros de Fomento, Dr. Martin J. Sanavria y de Relaciones Esteriores, Antonio L. Guzman, y del Gobernador del Distrito federal, Dr. Jesus Maria Paul. Cardcas. Fol. pp. 4. 58a. Catalogue. See Spence. 59. Caulin. Historia corografica, natural y evangelica de la Nueva Andalucia, provincias de Cumand, Nueva Barcelona, Gua yana y vertientes del rio Orinoco. Por Antonio Caulin. 4to, pp. 460. 60. Chirinos. Carta postal de los Estados Unidos de Venezuela, por Rafael Cliirinos. Cardcas, 1873. One sheet. 60a. Chitty. ' See Vargasia. 606. Club. See Cardcas, and Ernst. 61. Codazzi. Atlas fisico politico de la Repiiblica de Venezuela dedicado, por su autor, el Coronel de Ingenieros Agustin Codazzi, al congreso constitugente de 1830. Cardcas, 1840. Folio, pp. 8. 19 maps. 62. Codazzi. Catecismo de la Geografla de Venezuela. Por Agustin Codazzi. Cardcas, 1867. i2mo, pp. 80. 63. Codazzi. Proyecto de poblar con las razas teut6nicas los terre- nos altos y hasta ahora incultos de Venezuela. Cardcas, 1842. 8vo, pp. 14. With map. 64. Codazzi. Rapport sur les travaux geographiques et statisques ex6cut6s dans la republique de Venezuela, d'apres les ordres du Congres, par M. le Colonel Codazzi. Paris. 4to, pp. 18. (Extrait des Comptes renduo des seances de l'Academie des Sciences, stance du 15 Mars, 1841.) 65. Codazzi. Resiimen de la Geografla de Venezuela, por Agustin Codazzi. Paris, 1841. 8vo, pp. 648. 66. Codazzi. See Millan, Rojas, and Rosa. 67. Codigo. Codigo civil sancionado, por el Congreso de los Estados Unidos de Venezuela desde su descubrimiento y conquista hasta que se declard estado independiente. Card cas, 1840. 8vo, pp. xi. 192. 68. Codigo. Codigo civil sancionado, por el General Guzman Blanco, Presidente provisional de la Republica y General en jefe de sus ejercitos. Edition oficial. Cardcas, 1873. Folio, 276 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. Q. pp. 183-5. Codigo Penal, pp. 78, 2. Codigo de Comercio, pp. 112, 2. 69. Coleccion. Coleccion general de los Tratados piiblicos , Cele- brados por Colombia y Venezuela con varias naciones de Europe y America. Cardcas, 1840. 8vo, pp. 151. 69a. Colombia : being a Geographical, Statistical, Agricultural, Commercial, and Political Account of that country, adapted for the general reader, the Merchant, and the Colonist. London, published by Baldwin, Cradock, & Son. 1822. 696. Colombia. The present State of Colombia, containing an account of the principal events of its revolutionary war, the expeditions fitted out in England to assist in its emanci pation ; its constitution, financial, and commercial laws ; revenue, expenditure, and public debt ; agriculture, mines ; mining and other associations, with a map exhibiting its mountains, rivers, departments, and provinces. By an Officer late in the Colombian service. London : John Murray, Albemarle Street. 1827. 69c. Colombia. See Bolivar, Briceno, Castillo, Garcia y Garcia, Leyes, Lisbcia, Michelena, and Recollections. 70. Colombia. Constitution de la Republica de Colombia. Card cas, 1822. 4to, pp. 40. 70a. Colon. See Montenegro. 71. Colonia Tovar. Boletin de la Colonia Tovar. (In Spanish and German.) Nos. 1-5 complete. Colonia Tovar, 1843. 8vo, pp. 42. 71a. Congreso. See Blanco, Castillo, Codazzi, Codigo, Constitution, and Guzman. 72. Constitucion. Constitution politica del Estado de Venezuela formada por su segundo Congreso Nacional, y presentada a los pueblos para su sancion, el dia 15 de Agosto de 1819. Imp'resa en Angostura; reinipresa d Habana, 1821. 4to, pp. 60. 72a. Coleridge. See Form. 726. Comedia. See Drama. 73. Constitucion. Constitution de los Estados Unidos de Vene zuela. Edition oficial. Cardcas, 1864. 4to, pp. 52. 74. Constituciones. Constituciones synodales de Venezuela y San tiago Leon de Cardcas. Hechos en la Santa Iglesia Catedral de dicho Ciudad de Cardcas, en el ano del Sefior de 1687. Por el ilustrisimo y reverendisimo Senor Dr. Don Diego de Banos y Sotomayor, Obispo de dicho Obispado. Madrid, 1 76 1. Folio, pp. 495. New edit. 1848, pp. viii. 486. 75. Contestacion. Contestation veridica, y formal, que se hace al manifiesto, que ha dado al publico la Compania Guipuzcoana de Cardcas, sobre los Beneficios, que de su estable cimiento han redundado al Estado, a la Real Hacienda, al buen App. Q.] SELECT LIST OF BOOKS. 277 publico, ya los verdaderos interesses de la Prpvincia de Cardcas, fundada en hechas de tan inexorable verdad, que lo mas se pueden diferir a lo que sabe, y ha experimentado el mismo Director, Autor del Manifiesto. Cardcas, 1748. Folio, pp. 62. 75a. Coronado. See Vargasia. 756. Correspondent. See Bolivar, Paez, and Rojas. 75 c. Cotton. See Cultivo. 76. Crame. See Manuscript. 77. Cuestion. Cuestion pegones y Tacamahaca. Valencia, 1858. 8vo, pp. 12. 78. Cuestion. Cuestion promovida por los Agentes de Francia y de la Gran Bretaiia. (Expulsion of General Monagas.) Cardcas, 1858. 8vo, pp. 49. 79. Cultivo. Cultivo del algodon "Sea Island." Cardcas, 1869. 8vo, pp. 7. 79a. Cumanagota. See Yangues. 796. Dance. Recollections of Four Years in Venezuela, by Charles Daniel Dance, a Mission Priest in the Diocese of Guiana. London, 1876. (Henry S. King & Co.) With a map and three illustrations. 80. Defensa. Defensa documentada de la conducta del Coman- dante de la Guayra Sr. Manuel Maria de las Casas, en la prision del General Miranda y entrega de aquella plaza d los espaiioles en 18 12. Cardcas, 1843. 8vo, PP- 74- 81. Delgado. Tablas que indica diariamente la hora media en Cardcas y demas puntos de Venezuela, el momento en que d la luz del crepusculo di la tarde se lea con dificultad este escrito. Por Elias Delgado. Cardcas, 1862, one leaf. 82. Diaz. El Agricultor Venezolano 6 Lecciones de Agricultura practica nacional. Por Jose' A. Diaz. Cardcas, 1861-4. 8vo, 2 vols. 82a. Diaz, J. D. Recuerdos sobre la rebelion de Cardcas. Por Jose' Domo. Diaz. Madrid. Ymprenta de D. Leon Amarita, Plazuela de Celenque, 1829. 83. Diaz, R. See Baralt. 83a. Diaz, M. V. See Vargas, and Vargasia. 84. Documentos. Documentos relativos al establecimiento del Banco de Venezuela. Cardcas, 1861. 8vo, pp. 177. 85. Documentos. Documentos relativos d la cuestion de limites y navigation fluvial entre el Imperio del Brasil, y la Republic de Venezuela. Cardcas, 1859. 8vo, pp. 165. Map. 85a. Drama. See Aecio, Bolet, Escobar, Manfredo, and Perez. 86. Dupons. Travels and Description of the Carracas. London, 1807. 8vo. 87. Eastwick. Venezuela : or Sketches of Life in a South American Republic ; with the history of the Loan of 1864. 278 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. Q. By Edward B. Eastwick, C.B., F.R.S. London, 1868 (Chapman & Hall). 8vo. Map. 87a. Ecuador. See Briceno, Garcia y Garcia, Lisb6a, and Michelena. 876. Educacion. See Bolivar. 88. Educacion. Projectos de leys sobre instruction piiblica y protection de cultos, dedicados d la legislatura de 1839. Por un Ciudadano entusiasta de la prosperidad de su patria. Cardcas, 1838. 8vo, pp. 9. 89. Efemerides Colombianos. See Bolivar. 90. Engel. Estudio Sobre la Caiia Dulce, en el Estado Aragua. Por Louis Engel. Dedicado a sus amigos los Senores Dr. Martin J. Sanavria, Ministro de Fomento, y James M. Spence. (La Opinion Nacional, Feb. 10, 1872.) 91. Ernst. Apuntes biograficos sobre Amadeo Bonpland leidos en la sesion de el de Noviembre de 1869, de la Sociedad de Ciencias fisicas y naturales de Cardcas. Por A. Ernst. Cardcas, 1869. 8vo, pp. 18. 92. Ernst. Consideraciones Generales sobre los mamiferos F6siles y especialmente sobre el Mastadonte de San Juan de los Morros. Por A. Ernst. La Opinion National. Julio 1874. Nos. i575-76-77-79- 93. Ernst. Das Thai von Cardcas in Venezuela. Von A. Ernst. (Globus xx. 25.) 94. Ernst. Determination barometrica de la altura de Cardcas. [Por A. Ernst.] Estracto del acta del Colegio de Ingenieros de Venezuela sesion de 23 de Marzo de 1870. Cardcas, 1870. 8vo. 95. Ernst. Francia, Alsacia y Lorena. [Por Charles Leland.] Traducido del Ingles [por A. Ernst]. Cardcas, 1871. 8vo, pp. 22. 96. Ernst. La F^culo y los plantas farindceos del Nuevo Mundo. Por A. Ernst. Puerto-Cabello, 1873. i2mo, pp. 18. 97. Ernst. Proben venezuelanischer Volksdichtung, von A. Ernst . in Cardcas. (Globus, vol. xviii. p. 9.) 98. Ernst. Rede bei der von dem deutschen Club in Cardcas, am 22 Marz 187 1 veranstalteten Feier des Geburtstages Kaiser Wilhelms I., gehalten von A. Ernst. Cardcas, 187 1. 8vo, pp. 14. Also a Spanish edit, traducido del Aleman por el Licencido Rafael Seijas. pp. 14. 99. Ernst. Sertulum Naiguatense : Notes on a small collection of Alpine Plants from the summit of Naiguatd in the moun tains of Cardcas. By A. Ernst, Ph.D., &c. (Journal of Botany, Sept. 1872.) 99a. Ernst. See Unger, and Vargasia. 996. Esclavitud. See Ley. App. Q.] SELECT LIST OF BOOKS. 279 100. Escobar. Viaje fantastico en 3 Cantos. Por Eloi Escobar. Cardcas, 1857. 8vo, pp. 48. 101. Escobar. Nicolas Rienzi. Drama en 4 actos y en versos. Por Eloi Escobar. Cardcas, 1862. 8vo, pp. 62. 102. Espinosa. Batalla de Santa Ines 6 rasgo hist6rico sobre la Campana del occidente en 1859. Por J. M. Espinosa. Card cas, 1866. 8vo, pp. 29. 102a. Estadistica. See Larrazdbal. 103. Estadistica de Venezuela. Memoria de la Direction general de Estadistica al Presidente de los Estados Unidos de Vene zuela en 1873. Folio, pp. xvi. 311, 320, 288, xxxvii. Edited by General Andres A. Level. 104. Estadistica de Venezuela. Primeros Actos del Ejecutivo Federal para la Estadistica de Venezuela. Edition oficial. Cardcas, 187 1. Folio. 104a. Fecula. See Ernst. 105. Ferrocarril. Los Empresarios del ferrocarril central de Venezuela al publico. Valencia, 1858. 8vo, pp. 58. 105a. Ferrocarril. See Geneste. 1056. Fine Arts Exhibition. See Catalogo. 106. Flores de Pascua. Coleccion de composiciones escritas por Venezolanos. Cardcas, 185 1 and 1866. 8vo. 1 06a. Forasteros. See Calendario. 107. Form. Form of Consecration of the British Chapel and Burial-ground, according to the Rites and Ceremonies of the Church of England, by William Hart Coleridge, D.D., Lord Bishop of Barbadoes and the Leeward Islands. Card cas, 1834. (Spanish and English.) Folio, pp. 10. 107a. Fosiles. See Ernst. 108. Foster. On the Caratal Gold Fields. By C. Le Neve Foster, B. A.D.Sc, F.G.S. (Quarterly Journal of Geological S ociety, vol. xxv. p. 336, June 1869.) 1 08a. Gallagher. See Calendario. 109. Garcia y Reveron. Noticia biografica del Doctor y General Gonzalo Cdrdenas. Por Luis Felipe Garcia y Reveron. Cardcas, 1869. 4to, pp. vi. 46. no. Garcia y Garcia. Relacciones de los vireyes del Reino de Granada, ahora Estados Unidos de. Venezuela, Estados Unidos de Colombia y Ecuador, compiladas ' y publicadas el Sr. Dr. D. por J. A. Garcia y Garcia. New York, 1869. 8vo, pp. 705. in. Geografla. See Bovadilla, Codazzi, Colombia, Documentos, Gumilla, Humboldt, Michelena, Montenegro, Rojas, and Wappaus. 112. Geneste. Ferrocarril de la Guayra. Informe sobre el proyec- tado Ferrocarril de via angosta Narrow Gage (systema de Fairlie) de Cardcas al mar. By. F. A. B. Geneste, dated 280 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. Q. London, Mar. 24, 1874. La Opinion Nacional, 10 June 1874. 112a. Geological Society. See Foster. 1 126. Gobierno. See Aldrey, " Barima," Becerra, Blanco, Briceiio, ' Cafe", Godoi, Madariaga, Michelena, Rojas, and Villafaiie. 113. Godoi, Manuel R. Decano de los porteros de la casa de Gobierno, Apuntes para la Historia. Sucesos occurridos en el palacio de Gobierno en Cardcas. Cardcas, 1862. 8vo, pp. 11. 114. Gonzalez. Las Fiestas de la Pascua. Por Jorge Rodit Gonzalez. Cardcas, 1868. 8vo, pp. 31. 114a. Goering. See Vargasia. 115. Gonzales. Venezuela y los Mondgas Unimpersonal. PorJ.V. G. Cardcas, 1838. 8vo, pp. 37. 1 '$a. Gonzalez. See Avila. 116. Grossourdy, Renato de. El Medico botdnico criollo. Paris. Parte primera : Flora medical y util de los Antillas y de la parte correspondiente del Continente Americano. Tomo I. Botanica elemental, Metodo dicot6mico, &c. 8vo, pp. 426. Tomo II. Familias, nseilhero [M. M.] Lisboa. Bruxellas, 1866. 8vo, pp. 393. With engravings. 149a. Loan. See Baring, and Eastwick. 150. Lopez. See Bolivar. 151. Lozano. Coleccion de poesias originales por Abigail Lozano. 1864. 4to, pp. 472. 152. Madariaga. Diario y observaciones del Presbltero Jose' Cortes Madariaga en su regreso de Santa Fe d Cardcas por la via de los rios Negro, Meta, y Orinoco, despues de haber concluido la comision que obtuvo de su Gobierno, para acordar los tratados de alianza entre ambos Estados. 4to, PP- 43- 153. Madriz. Cultivo del Cafe, por F. G. Madriz. Paris, 1869. 8vo, pp. vii. 167. At p. 97 commences " El Comercio de Cafe, por H. Schoffer, traducido del Aleman, por el joven Diego Bautista Urbaneja. 154. Maitin. Obras Po^ticas de Jose' A. Maitin. Cardcas, 185 1. 8vo, pp. xxiii. 163. 155. Manfredo. Una Culpa. Drama en un acto, por Manfredo. Bogotd, 1866. 8vo, pp. 40. 156. Manuscript — 1. Nuevo Reino de Granada. Cardcas. Descrip tion de la Provincia de Cumand, por el Virrey de Santa Fee, Don Jorge de Villalonga en 1720 mediante informe de un practico. Notas para al mas pronta comprehenscion del Mapa General de la Governacion de Cumana, por El Gover- nador Coronel Don Jose' Dibuja y Villagomez en 1761 (no esta el mapa), Yncluyeseia de Barcelona, habla del Coroni, Surinam, Guayana, Orinoco, estado y regimen de las Missiones, estadistica, &c. Brebe Noticia del Gran Rio Orinoco, particularmente desde el Puento y Castillo de S. Francisco hasta el mar y sobre el establecimento y fuerzas Hollandezas por el mismo. 4to, 142 leaves. 2. Nuevo Reyno de Granada. Maracaybo. Plan de Defensa 284 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. Q. para la Provincia de Maracaybo hecho de orden del Rey, por el Brigadier de Ynfanteria Don Agustin Crame de acuerdo y con aprobacion del Coronel Dr. Francisco de Santa Cruz Governador y commte Gral de dicha Provincia. Nada tiene de Geografid. i$6a.Map. See Arrowsmith, Bolivar, Codazzi, Colombia, Docu mentos, Eastwick, Manuscript, Millan, Paez, and Rojas. 1566. Markham. See Simon. 157. Mar cano. See Vargasia. 158. Maracaybo. Description de los actos y regocijos publicos que tuvieron lugar con motivo de la bendicion e inauguracion del Palacio Gobierno. Maracaybo, 1868. Folio, pp. 21. 1 58a. Martel, M. Proceso de los Presbiteros Doctores Martin Tamayo, Domingo Quintero y sus complices, acusados del horrendo crimen cometidos in los dias ocho . y nueve de julio de mil ocho cientos sesenta y cinco. Cardcas, 1S72. 8vo, pp. 20. 159. Medica. See Benites, Bolet, Grossourdy, and Pompo. 160. Memorias. Memorias de la Sociedad Econ6mica de Amigos del Pais. Cardcas, 1831 hasta 1835. 8vo, 2 vols. 160a. Mendez. See Revenga. 1606. Mensaje. See Guzman. 161. Michelena y R6jas. Exploration oficial por la primera vez desde el norte del America del sur siempre por rios, en- trando por las bocas del Orin6co, de los valles de este mismo y del Meta, Casiquiare, Rio-Negro 6 Guaviare y Amaz6nas, hasta Nauta en el alto Maraiion 6 Amaz6nas, arriba de las bocas del Ucayali bajada del Amaz6nas hasta el Atldntico comprendido en ese inmenso espacio los Estados de Vene zuela, Guayana Inglesa, Nueva Granada, Brdsil, Ecuador, Peru, y Bolivia. Viaje d Rio de Janeiro desde Belen en el Gran Pard, por el Atldntico, tocando en las capitales de las principale provincias del Imperio en los anos, de 1855, hasta 1859, por T. Michelena y Rojas. Publicada bajo los auspicios del Gobierno de los Estados Unidos de Venezuela. Bruselas, 1867. 8vo. pp. 684. 162. Millan. Mapa fisico, politico, e historico de los Estados Unidos de Venezuela sacada del mapa atlas del General Agustin Codazzi en 187 1. Por Bonifacio Coronado Millan. One sheet. 163. Millan. Teneduria de libras por partida doble, seguida de un ap^ndice que trata de conocimientos generales de co- mercio y cdlculas mercantiles. Por Bonifacio Coronado Millan. Cardcas, 1868* 4to, pp. 112. 163a. Minerals. See Plant. 1936. Miranda. See Defensa. 16 3c. Monedas. See Prontuario. App. Q.] SELECT LIST OF BOOKS. 285 164. Mondgas y Paez. Being a brief view of the late events in Venezuela. New York, 1850. 8vo, pp. 80. 165. Mondgas, J. T. See Becerra, Cuestion, Gonzalez, and Ponte. 166. Mondgas. Bosquejo historico de la vida militar del ilustre, General en Jefe Jose Tadeo Mondgas, durante la guerra de nuestra independencia. Cardcas, 1855. 8vo. Portrait. 167. Montenegro. Geografla general para el uso de la juventud de Venezuela. [Por Feliciano Montenegro Colon.] Cardcas, 1833-1837. 4 vols. 167a. Montilla. Biografia del General de Division Mariano Montilla del 6rden de libertadores. Por Col. Juan Austria. Cardcas, 1851. 8vo, pp. 23. 1676. Museo Venezolano. See Bolet. 167c. Music. See Rothe. 168. Naiguatd. See Alpine Journal, Ernst, Illustrated London News, and Spence. 1 68a. Nueva Granada. See Colombia. 1686. Orinoco. See Bovadilla, Caulin, Gumilla, Kingston, Level, Madariaga, Manuscript, and Michelena. 169. Or sua. See Southey. 169a. Ores. See Plant. 1696. Otte. See Humboldt. 170. Oviedo y Banos. Historia de la Conquista y poblacion de la provincia de Venezuela. Primera Parte. Por Jose' de Oviedo y Banos. Madrid, 1723. 4to. There was a new edition, Cardcas, 1824. " The second volume, if ever really published, is supposed noiv to be lost. It is said to have been destroyed by Los Mantuanos, as it threw some unpleasant light upon their family history." 171. Paez, R. Travels and Adventures in South and Central America. First series : Life in the Llanos of Venezuela. By Don Ramon Paez. London, 1868. 8vo. Map and plates. 172. Paez. Autobiografia del General Jose' Antonio Paez. Nueva York, 1867, 1869. Two vols. 8vo, pp. 576 and 488. 1 72a. Paez. See Mondgas. 173. Paez. Carta que el General Jos6 A. Paez escribi6 de la carcel de Cardcas d un amigo suyo. Cardcas, 1850. 8vo, pp. 21. 174. Paez. Documents relative" to the public life of General Jos6 A. Paez. New York, 1854. 8vo, pp. 67. 175. Paez. El General J. A. Paez en los Estados Unidos. New York, 1850. 8vo, pp. 33. 176. Pardo. Meditaciones sobre el desastre de Cumand. Por Francisco de Paula Pardo. Cardcas, 1852. 8vo, pp. 23. 177. Perez. Lo que siembras cajerds. Comedia original de costum- tumbras en 3 actos y en prosa. Por Francisco de Sdles Perez. Cardcas, 1869. 8vo, pp. 56. 286 THE LAND OF BOLIVAR. [App. Q. 177a. Peraza. See Bolet. 1776. Perrey. See Rojas. 177c. Pent.. See Bolivar, Briceno, and Michelena. 178. Penal. See Codigo, and Guzman. 178a. Piar. See Syers. 1 786. Pimentel y Roth. Resuinen Cronol6gico de las Leys y Decre- tos del credito Publico de Venezuela, desde el ano 1826; Cuenta general hasta 31 de Diciembre de 1872. Liquid ation de todos los contratos desde 1864 precedida de un resumen de todos ellos, y cuadros demostrativos de las oper- aciones del mismo Credito Publico, por el Ministro del Ramo Francisco Pimentel y Roth. Cardcas, 1873. Folio, pp. cxxxix. 412. 179. Pita. El Consultor del Sistema M^trica 6 tablas de reduction. Obra escrita y publicada por Don Eduardo Sanchez Pita. Madrid, 1868. 8vo, pp. 254. 180. Pizarro, Franz, 1525, in Abschnitt II. ("Niederlassungen an der Kiiste von St. Martha, Venezuela, und Toro "), pp. 47- 56, of Capitel II. (" Reisen und Entdeckungen gegen Siiden von America ") of vol. xv. (Funfzehnter Band) of the " Alleg- meine Historie der Reisen zu Wasser und Lande ; oder Sam- mlung aller Reisebeschreibungen," &c. Published at Leipsic by Arkstee und Merkus, 1757. Small 4to. 180a. Piano. See Revenga, and Rosa. 181. Plant (paper). Description of Minerals and Ores from Vene zuela. By John Plant, F.G.S. (Microscopical and Natural History Section). Proceedings Manchester Literary and Philosophical Society. Vol. xii.. No. 11. Session, 1872-73. 1 8 r .*39- Ambition. See Salazar. Ambuscade, ii. 157. Amphibolite slate. See Rocks. Amphitheatre, a great natural, ii. 6, 12, 26. Ampues, Juan de, ii. 153. Amundaray, Senora Felicia Castillo de, artist, ii. 245. Ammunition. See Firearms. Amusements, and places of amuse ment, i. 22, 30, 37-38, 39, u 1, 318 ; n- 93, 94- Amyris altissima, i. 293. Anache, lake of, i. 63. Anagram on the name of Simon Bolivar, i. 122. Analysis: Salt of St. Christopher, i. 10, note: Of phosphate, i. 211, note: Of the national dish, i. 234 : Of fruit of Onoto, i. 238 : Of Orchila guano, i. 283 : Of Los Roques mine ral, ii. 122 : Of Curamichate coal, ii. 134. Anastacia, Santa, a bone of, i. 96. Anauco river, i. 30. Ancestors, i. 165-166. Anchorage, i. 85, 103, 201, 284. Ancient History of Venezuela, ii. 151-174. Andes range of mountains, i. 47-49, 72, 73, 75 ; ii- 14, 47, 76. Andral, Mr. William A., ii. 256. Anecdotes. See Incidents. Angelito (bee), i. 237. Angostura Bitters, i. 82. Angostura, City of. See Ciudad-Boli- var. Angostura, Congress of, i. 130. Angostura, Government of, i. 131. Angraecum, ii. 193. Anguloa, ii. 193. Anil de Cardcas, i. 242. Anil plant, cultivation of, i. 242-243 : When introduced, ii. 171. Annihilation of the armed Blues, i. 262. Anniversary of the Revolution, i. 111: Of the Declaration of Inde pendence, i. 178. Anniversary of the Centenary of Humboldt, ii. 291. INDEX. 3°3 Anoco, Jesus, guide, ii. 2. Amedera scanderis, ii. 243. Anthracite. See Coal. Anthropology, i. 54, 300. Antidote, i. 81. Antilles. See West Indian Islands. Antimano village, ii. 6. Apio de Espana, i. 234. Apostacy, ii. 296-299. Appeal, Court of, i. 56. Appendix, ii. 151. Apple, i. 51. Appun, Von Carl Ferdinand, ii. 271. Apure, battle of, plan of attack of the, i, 260 : The combat, i. 261 : The victory, i. 261 : Flight of the vanquished, i. 262 : Their total de struction, i. 262, 311. Apure, campaign of, i. 259. Apure, fisheries of, i. 76. Apure, Uaneros of, i. 77. Apure, llanos of, i. 52 : Enormous extent of, i. 75 : Meagre popula tion of, i. 75 : Abundant animal life in, i. 76. Apure, Paso Real of, i. 260-261. Apure river, i. 60, 73, 74, 161; ii.267. Apure, State of, i. 75-77. Apurito river, i. 260. Aquaria, i. 280. Aqueducts, i. 69 ; ii. 263, 268, 269. 'Aqui mismo,' meaning of expres sion, ii. 64. Aragonese Capuchins : They take refuge in caves, i. 65. Aragua, Barcelona, i. 89 : Cotton districts of, i. 98. Aragua, mountains of, ii. 42, 59. Aragua, State of, i. 59. Aragua, valleys of, i. 47 : First view into, i. 152 : Descent into, i. 153 : Estates of, i. 153 : Troops of, i. 156: The famous tree of, i. 156: Rich lands of, i. 157-159: Tobacco of, i. 159 : Grand lake of, i. 159 : Bad roads in, i. 163 : Dearth of cattle in, i. 163: Acreage under sugar cane in, i. 165 : Cost of war in, i. 166 : Lands suitable for a colony, i. 177 ; ii. 171. Araguita, parish of, Barcelona, i. 101 ; ii. 256 : Its Church, ii. 267. Araguita, State of Bolivar, i. 59. Aranjo,' General Juan, i. 258. ' Arapiles,' Spanish ironclad, ii. in. Arapos islands, ii. 254. Arauca river, i. 130, 262. Araya, peninsula, i. 63 ; ii. 151. Araya, mountains of, i. 63. Arbacos Indians, ii. 157. Arbours, i. 38 ; ii. 7, 35, 37. Arch, a triumphal, i. 186, 312. Archbishop of Venezuela, i. 56, note; ii. 296-299. Archipelago, i. 196. Ardea herodias, i. 265 ; ii. 178. Arena. See Cock-pits. Arendetario, the system of, i. 248. Arismendi, General, i. 67, 127. Aristeguieta, General J. M., i. 112. Aristocracy, i. 138-139, 302, 305 : Los Mantuanos, ii. 285. Arizona, territory of, i. 1 : Indians of, i. 90. Armadillo, ii. 52. Arms. See Firearms. Army. See Soldiers. ' Arno,' steamer, i. 9-13, 41. Arnotto, i. 51. Aroa copper mines, i. 67-68, 224 ; ii. !36, i85- . , . ,o Aroa, mountains of, 1. 68. Aro river, i. 78. Arquebuse, ii. 164. Arrechedera, Senora Nicolasa, death of, i. 226. Arrests, i. 120. Arrow-heads, ii. 191. Arrow-poison, i. 80. Arrow-root, i. 51. Arrowsmith, J., ii. 271. Artesian well, i. 96. Artillery, i. 262. Arts, i. 69 ; ii 127. Arvelo, Dr. Carlos, i. 168. Arvelo, Senor Rafael, i. 168 : His book of poems, ii. 227, 231, 272. Asbestos, ii. 187. Ascent. See Naiguatd and Silla. Asfalto. See Lago. Asphaltum, beds of, i. 69 ; ii. 186. Asphyxia, i. 80. Assassin, an attempt on the life of Bolivar by an, i. 126 : One takes the life of Urdaneta, i. 144 : Another that of C6bos, ii. 156 : El Gran Mariscal de Ayacucho, slain by an, ii. 281. Asses, i. 52 : A collection of, i. 223 : A goods train of, i. 229, 247. Asses versus Guides, ii. 29. Asuncion, town of, i. 66. Atabapo river, i. 78. Athlete, a Californian, i. 185. Atienza, Dofia Inez de, ii. 160 : Murder of, ii. 161. 3°4 INDEX. Atienza, Dr. Santiago Terrero de, i. 317, 322 ; ii. 125 : He speaks at ar tist's banquet, ii. 129, 249, 251, 255, 257, 290. Atlantic Ocean, i. 2, 6, note, 47, 77. Atmosphere. See Air. Attic, 1. 285. Attire. See Dress. Attires Indians, destruction of, i. 80. Attires, rapids of, i. 79. Auriferous. See Gold. Aurora, ii. 25. 'Australian,' ss. of the W. I. & P. M. Co., i. 39. Austria, Jos<5, ii. 272. Austria, Colonel Jos^de,author,i. 272. Authors, list of, ii. 271-293. Auyama plant, i. 234. Avarice. See Conquistadores. Aveledo, Sen. Agustin, ii. 272, 291. Avellaneda, Dona Gertrudis G. de, poetess, ii. 226. Aves, Las, island, ii. 119, 254, 272. Avicennia tomentosa, ii. 176. Avila, Dr. Josd Cecilio, ii. 272. Axe, Indian, ii. 294. Axon, Mr. Wm. E. A., Preface ii. 223-231. Azaf ran plant, i. 51. Azambuja, Dom J. M. N. de, Bra zilian minister, i. 41-42. Azores, or Western Islands, i. 2-3. Azua, Don Gabriel A. Real de, ii. 228, 230. Azules. See Conservative party. Baba. See Alligators. Baca, Alonso Arias, governor, ii. 169. Baggage, i. 17. Bahia de Nuevo Napoles. See Nuevo Napoles. Bailleria neriifolia, ii. 183, 24I. Bailon, San Pascual, a bone of, i. 96. Baio-Seco island, fortress of, i. 70. Balboa, Nunez de, ii. 47. Balcarce, Don Florencio, poet, ii. 230. Ballot, vote by, i. 55 : ' Stuffing the ballot boxes introduced,' i. 140. Balls in Cardcas, i. 113-116: In the Tuy, i. 297, 299. Balsam Copaiba, i. 76. Bambusese, ii. 37, 60, 181, note. Banana tree and fruit, i. 51, 88, 173, 294-295- Bandiera Brothers, 1. 179. Bank of Venezuela, ii. 272. Banos y Sotomayor, Dr. Don Diego de, ii. 276. Banquete, popular, i. 112, 271. Banquets, i. 253, 271-272, 315 : An artistic one, ii. 124 : One to the artists, ii. 128 : The author's, to the President and his Cabinet, ii. 146-148 : An account of the ban quet to the artists, ii. 247-252. Baptisms, custom at, i. 188. Baralt, Sefior Rafael Maria, author, ii. 172, note, 230, 272. Baraquigua, city of, ii. 165. Barbacoas, town of, its church, ii. 267. Barbadians : What Trollope says about the, i. 12 : Hospitality of the, i. 13 : Presumption of the, i. 13 : Language of the, i. 14 : Sacred plant of the, i. 14. Barbadoes island, i. 8, 9, 12-15. Barbosa, General Antonio B. , i. 19. Barbula, coffee estate, i. 1 70-1 71. Barinas, city of, i. 74, 126 : The city taken by Paez, i. 128 : Roads, ii. 270. Barinas, plains of, i. 47. Baring Bros., Messrs., ii. 272, 292. Barinitas, road to, ii. 270. Barlovento, hills of, i. 228 ; ii. 59. Barlow, Joel, poet, ii. 223 . Barnacle, i. 53. Barometer, aneroid, i. 213 ; ii. 14, note. Barquisimeto, city of, i. 68 : Earth quake in, i. 68 : Capture of the city, i. 143, 148 : Founding of, ii. 154, 155 : Invaded by Aguirre, ii. 163 : Roads, ii. 269. .Barquisimeto, State of, i. 68 : Large population of, i. 68. Barracouta fish, i. 199, 285. Barrett, Mr David, i. 283 : Over drawn portrait of, i. 285-286 : Ter rible tribulation of, i. 287-288. Bdrrios, Dr. Diego Bautista, ii. 147, 251. Bdrrios, Sefior Diego Braulio, ii. 272. Barter, i. 198, 213 ; ii. 152. Baruta, village of, ii. 239. Basella margmata, ii. 241, 243. Basket. See Caramute. Bastides, Don Rodrigo de las, Bishop of Coro, ii. 154, Batis maritima, ii. 175, Battery Hill, El Gran Roque, 201, 202, 207, 209. Battue, a strange, i. 205-206. INDEX. 3°5 'Bavaria,' Hamburg steamer, ii. 116-117. Bazaar, ii. 142-143. Beans, i. 67 ; ii. 67. Becker, Mr Otto, i. 26 ; ii. 147. Bee, i. 53 ; ii. 237. Beef, Preface, i. 242, 244, 253. Beer, i. 176. Befaria, ii. 238. Befaria, glauca, ii. 235, 242. Befaria, ledifolia, ii. 235, 242. Bejuco de agua, ii. 190. Belligerent rights asked by patriots, i. 125. Bello, Senor Andres, poet, ii. 225,272. Beltran, Sefior J. Garcia, artist, ii. 246, 251. Benigna, Santa, a bone of, i. 96. Benites, Senor J. Maria, ii. 272-273. Bergantin, mountains of, i. 62, 63. Bermtidez, General Jos^ Francisco, birthplace of, i. 67 : His victory over the Spaniards, i. 125 : His defeat, i. 126 : Anecdotes of, i. 317-318, note. Bermtidez, General Pedro Toledo, i. 317; ii. 125, note, 251. Berro, Don Adolfo, poet, ii. 230. Berroteran, Madam Pio, comfortable home of, ii. 28, 29, 68, 69. Berroteran, Pio, joins the Naiguatd party, ii. 28 : His appearance, ii. 28 : Appointed chief guide, ii. 28 : Patience of, ii. 46 : He is dubbed a Saint, ii. 46 : He goes in advance, ii. 50 : Prudence of, ii. 62, 68, 69, 73. Bertholletia excelsa, ii. 190. Betijoque, sierras of, proposed rail way to, ii. 136. Bibliographical list, ii. 271-293. Bifrenaria, ii. 194. Bigote, village of, i. 235. Biflega, A., i. 276. Binocle, ii. 9. Birds, Venezuelan, i. 52 -. Of ill omen, i. 76 : Indian mode of capturing birds, i. 81 : Of Los Roques, i. 208 : A strange place to build their nests, i. 232 : New and rare species, i. 265-267 : Birds of Orchila, i. 281, 284, 288, 298 : Goering's collection, ii. 115 : Author's collection, ii. 177, 188 : Ernst's paper on Venezuelan birds, ii. 291. Birthdays, celebration of, i. 188. Birth-rate, i. 31. Bishop of Cardcas, ii. 171. Bishop of Merida, i. 73- VOL. II. Bishops, i. 56, 73 ; ii. 297-299. Bitter-cedar, i. 293. Bitters. See Angostura. Bituminous Coal. See Coal. Bivouac, ii. io-ii, 43-44. Bixa orellana, i. 234, 238. Black-cattle, i. 52, 60. Black trap, implements of, ii. 294. Black waters of the Upper Orinoco, i. 80. Blanco, Don Antonio, i. 161. Blanco, Dr. Gerdnimo, author, ii. 273. Blanco, Father Ruiz, his dictionary of the Cumanagota language, i. 29; ii. 273, 293. Blanco, General Antonio Guzman (President), i. 27, 77, note, 104 : Author's introduction to, i. 106 : His personal appearance, i. 106 : His frankness, i. 106 : His past ex perience, i. 106: His fitness to rale, i. 106: His Herculean task, i. 108: He goes to 'banquete popular,' i. 112: He receives a public ova tion,!. 112: A medal of honour pre sented to him, i. 112 : He goes to a ball, i. 113 : Author's interview with, i. 117: His biography, i. 142 : His profession, i. 143 : His travels, i. 143 : His expatriation, i. 143 : He joins General Falcon, i. 143 : He enters the army, i. 143 : His military aptitude, i. 144 : He re organises the Liberal forces, i. 144: He leads them to victory, i. 144 : He arranges a treaty of peace with the Blues, i. 145 : Accepts high offices, i. 145 : He visits Europe about a foreign loan, i; 145 : He comes home, i. 146-147: His house mobbed, i. 147 : He escapes to Curazao, i. 148 : Returns to Vene zuela, i. 148 : He collects an army, i. 148 : He takes Cardcas by as sault, i. 148 : He becomes the Ruler of the Republic, i. 150 : Road made by him, i. 152: One of his supporters, i. 154 : Author's in terview with him atYalencia,i. 164- 165: The President goes in state to the Cathedral, i. 178: His reasons for forming the islands of the Re public into a territory, i. 219: He heads the army of Apure, i. 259 : His plan of attack on San Fer nando, i. 260 : His engagement with the enemy, i. 261 : His great victory, i. 262 : Issues decree re- U io6 INDEX. specting new territory, i. 273 : Re turns from Apure, i. 311 : Ovations on the way, i. 312 : Reception in Cardcas, i. 312 : His speech to the multitude, i. 313 : The merchants entertain him, i. 315 : His trouble with Salazar, ii. 95, 96 : He again takes the field, ii. 97 : His victory of Tinaquillo, ii. 98 : His return, ii. 98 : His speech, ii. 99 : He de fends the execution of Salazar, ii. 100 : His railway scheme, ii. 118 : He refuses to lease islands till examined, ii. 121 : Orders com pletion of coal-mining concessions, ii. 121 : Leaves for Valencia, ii. 121 : He promises author the islands, ii. 123 : Leaves again for Valencia, ii. 123 : Completes con cession of phosphate islands, ii. 125, 126 : His farewell letter to author, ii. 144 : The author's banquet to him, ii. 147 : Decree respecting islands, ii. 253 : His address to Congress, ii. 273, 275, 2S1 : His trouble with the Church of Rome, ii. 296-299. Blanco, Sefior Adolf o, i. 317. Blanco, Seiior Eduardo, i. 317 ; ii. 251. Blanco, Padre, the patriot, death of, i. 319 : His funeral, i. 320. Blandin, estate of, i. 39 ; ii. 90. Blanquilla, island of, i. 67. Blechnum serrulatum, ii. 181. Bletia, ii. 194. Blues. See Conservative party. Bluff. See Precipices. Boa constrictor, 1. 53. Boats, i. 16, 21, 60. Boca de Copl^, i. 261. Boca de Drdgos strait, i. 47. Boca Grande, proposed telegraph to, ii. 132. Bocond river, i. 72, 74. Bocond valley, ii. 155. Body-guard of Paez, i. 129 : Of the President, ii. 118. Bogotd, battle of, i. 125. Bogley, the Recorder, anecdote of, i. 181-185. Bolbophylliim, ii. 194. Bolet, Dr. Nicanor, ii. 273. Bolet, Hermanos, ii. 273. Bolet, Senor Ramon, artist, Preface ; i. 29, note ; i. 103 : Joins commis sion to Orchila, i. 276, 282 : ' He designs triumphal arch, i. 312 : Joins party to Catuche, i. 317 . Joins the Naiguatd party, ii. 17 : His sudden illness, ii. 39, 41: He discovers water, ii. 62, 71, 73, 78: His artistic powers, ii. 79 : Ruskin on his drawings, ii. 80 : His alle gorical picture, ii. 124 : Promotes fine arts exhibition, ii. 127 : His drawings at exhibition, ii. 129, 147: Accompanies author to La Guayra, ii. 149, 180, 245, 251. Bolivar, Plaza de (Cdracas), i. 26, 86, 126, 221, 313, 314; ii. 13. Bolivar Railway Company,ii. 1 37, note. Bolivar, Simon, the Liberator : Monumental statue of, i. 33 : His private secretary, i. 40, 68 : His Order of ' La Guerra a Muerte,' i. 72: His fear of the Caribe fish, i. 76: His expedition to free Colombia, i. 82: Birthplace of, i. 122: Travels of, i. 122 : Anagram on name of, i. 122 : Mission of, to Europe,i.i22 : Fights under Miranda, i. 123 : His trium phal entry into Cardcas, i. 125 : He escapes to Curazao, i. 125 : Captures fortress of Tenerife, i. 125 : Captures Izquierdo's entire force, i. 125 : He is hailed by the title of Liberator, i. 125 : Defeated at San Mateo, i. 126 : Attempted assassination of the Liberator, i. 126: Lands at Margarita, i. 127: Decrees the abolition of slavery and manu mits his own slaves, i. 127 : He joins Paez, i. 129 : His victory of Cala- bozo, i. 129 : Defeat of, at La Puerta, i. 130 : He attends Con gress, i. 130 : He liberates New Granada, i. 131: His victory of Carabobo, i. 132: He liberates Peru, i. 133: Assumes the dictatorship of it, i. 133 : He purchases the liberty of 1000 slaves, i. 133: His magnanimity, i. 134 : He resigns the Presidency of Colombia, i. 135 : His country's ingratitude, i. 135 : He dies broken-hearted, i. 136 : Political results of his death, i. 139 : Grand national funeral, i. 140 : Bdves attacks the Liberator at San Mateo, i. 155 : His address to Senorita Brion, i. 268: His exile, i. 269 : Anecdote of him, i. 318, note; ii. 173, 224: Works relating to, ii. 273, 274, 280, 289. Bolivar, State of, i. 50, 58: Islands of, i. 58: Mountains of, i. 58, 59: Rivers INDEX. 3°7 of, i. 59: Climate of,i. 59: Notable sights in, i. 59, 174, 178: Capacities of the State for production of in digo, i. 242: For cattle breeding, i. 244, 308 : Proposed telegraph through, ii. 132. Bolivar, the Enslaver, ii. 168. Bolivia, Republic of, i. 133; ii. 284. Bollaert, Mr. William, ii. 274, 289. Bomaria rosea, ii. 242. Bonaire, island of, i. 202, 278 ; ii. 176. Bonfante, Sefior Pedro, kindness of, i. no: His breakfast party, i. 116. Bonfires, i. 112 ; ii. 8, 10, 13, 43. Bonpl and, M. Aimd, i. 157 : Orchids, ii. 193-220, 274, 278, 281. Bon-vivant, a, i. 116. Books relating to Venezuela, ii. 271- 293. Borburata, port of, ii. 156, 158, 163. Borburata river, i. 173. Borracha, island of, i. 62. Borrachitos, islands of, i. 62 ; ii. 253. Borrego, General, joins Guzman Blanco, i. 259. 'Borussia,' German steamer, i. 174. Bosket, ii. 115, 116. Botany. See Flora and Vegetation. Boulton, Mr. H. L., ii. 147. Boundaiy. See Limits. ' Bouquet,' American Guano Com pany's schooner, i. 278. Bouquet. See Floral. Bovadilla, Don Francisco Ferndndez, ii. 274. Bdves, Spanish general, his cruelties, i. 126 : Attacks Bolivar at San Mateo, i. 155 ; ii. 225, 234. Boyd, Mr. Lodewic Christoff, his salt works, i. 197 : His house on El Gran Roque, i. 201 : Hospitality of, I. 201 : His lighthouse, i. 203 : His unselfishness, i. 204 : He saves lives, i. 204 : His anecdotes of wrecks, i. 204 ; His rat difficulty, y i. 206 : His dread of heat, i. 209 : A sail round the island with him, i. 209 : He challenges the ' Venus,' i. 212 : His sloop wins the race, i. 214. Boyer, Mr. Alex., ii. 136. Boyer, Mr. Alex., junior, ii. 147. Brachtia, ii. 195. Brack-grass, or SporoboLus virgini- cus, i. 201 ; ii. 176. Brauco river, ii. 152. Bravo, Don Pedro : His encounter with Aguirre, ii. 163, 164, Brazil, Empire of, i. 41, 47, 48, 50, 77 : Yellow fever in, i. 1 10 : Cost of producing raw sugar in, i. 168: How coffee is grown in, i. 293 ; ii. 274, 277, 284. Brazilian legation, i. 41. Brazils, i. 8. Brazil-wood, i. 51. Brazo del Casiquiare (river), i. 41, 48, 78, 79 ; ii. 152, 284. Bread, i. 152. Bread-fruit, i. 51. Breakfasts in Cardcas, i. 115, 116. Breakwater of La Guayra, i. 20, 21. Bredemeyera floribunda, ii. 235, 242. Briceno, Dr. Mariano, ii. 272, 274. Bridges, i. 21, 30, 97, 100, 171, 229,: Puente de Falcon, i. 231 : Natural one on the Naiguatd, ii. 50 : New erections, ii. 267, 268, 269. Bridgetown, Barbadoes, i. 12-14. Brigantine, i. 192 ; ii. 165. Brimstone. See Sulphur. Brion, Admiral, death of, i. 268. Brion, Senorita Loria, i. 268. Brisco, Sir Robert, i. 9, note. British aid to War of Independence, i. 123, 132. British Guiana, i. 46, 77, 284. British Legation, the, i. 25, 188. British Legion, the, i. 129 : Valour of, i. 132. British Minister, a strange one, i. 222, 223. British Minister, the. See Middleton. Brockhaus, Mr. F. A., ii. 225. Brown, Mr. Charles, discovers high est known waterfall, i. 79, note. Bruzual, General, his joint-president ship, i. 146 : His death, i. 146. Bruzual, Feast of, i. 186, 187. Bruzual, Senora, i. 186. Bucare de fuego, or fire tree, i. 293 : Its beauty, i. 293 : Its seeds, ii. 190. Buccaneers, i. 201 : Ravages of the, ii. 156, 158. Buena Yista, defile of, i. 132. Buenavista, lake of, i. 63. Buena Vista, Tuy, i. 250. Buenos Ayres, i. 244. Bug, Josd Antonio, i. 235. Buildings, noted public, i. 26, 30, 32, 34, 35, 38, 95, 109, 164, 169, 315, 321 ; 11. 113, 263, 267, 268. Bullion, transportation of (anec dotes), i. 224. 3°8 INDEX. Burguillos, Senor Diego Caganas, artist, ii. 246, 251. Burial. See Funeral. Burro, island of, i. 70. Burying-grounds, ancient. See In dian. Buscarito, channel of, i. 161. Butcher, i. 244. Butchery, Village of the, ii. 161. Butterfly. See Mariposas. CABIMBU mountain, i. 68. Cabo Blanco, La Guayra, i. 20; ii. 48, 105. Cabo Blanco, Orchila, i. 282. Cabo Codera, i. 84 ; ii. 14, 254. Cabo de La Vela,ii. 153. Cabra lake, i. 68. Cabrera, village of, i. 161. Cabritu, gratitude of a cazique of, ii. 159. Cacdo, i. 12, note, 50, 51 : Cultiva tion of, i. 67, 73 : When intro duced into Veuezuela, ii. 171. Cacdo lands, i. 157. Cacdo districts — Yaracuy, i. 67 : Cua, i. 243 : Ocumare, i. 249 : Santa Lucia, i. 307. Cacdo estates — Chuao, i. 32 : Dr. Nicanor Guardia's, Tuy, i. 242 : Milagro, i. 306. Cacdo, exports of, i. 42, 89. Caehicamo, or armadillo, ii. 52. Cachimbo, house of, ii. 2, 4 . A night there, ii. 5 : The return to, ii. 12. Cadiera, Captain L., of the ' Por- tefia,' i. 276. Cadiz, Regency of, i. 124. Cafe\ See Coffee. Cafd del Avila, Cardcas, i. 316 : Fine arts exhibition in, ii. 127, 128, 244-252. Cage, Mr W. A., ii. 105. Caicara, the painted rocks of, i. 80. Caicedo, Senor J. M., Torres, author, ii. 272, 274. Caiman, i. 53. Cajigal, Sefior Juan Manuel, birth place of, i. 67 : His ascent of the Silla, ii. 1, 8, note, 88 : His account of an ascent of the Silla, ii. 232-241 : His Silla plants, ii. 241, 242. Cakile sequalis, ii. 175. Calabozo, battle of, i. 129. Calabozo, llanos of, ii. 238. Calabozo, town of, i. 259 : Road to, ii. 266. Calamar, i. 53. Calcano, Ledo. Eduardo, ii. 125 : He speaks at artists' banquet, ii. 129, 248, 251, 252. Calcano, Senor Josd Antonio, ii. 274. Calcano, Senor Julio, poet, ii. 225. Calcano, Sefior Simon, poet, ii. 229. Calcareous tufa, i. 279 ; ii. 187. Calcerola, or enamelled pan, ii. 45. Caldera, mountain of, i. 72. Calderon, Francesco, ii. 166. California, i. 1, 188, 208, 228, 304. ' Calido y sano, ' meaning of expres sion, i. 20. Calle de Carabobo, Cardcas, i. 225. Calle de Comercio, Cardcas, i. 219. Camaridium, ii. 195. Camino Real del Oriente, or Main Eastern Road, ii. 2. Camp-fire, on Naiguatd, ii. 41, 43. Camp-fire, on the Silla, ii. 10. Campo Alegre, village of, i. 230. Caiia Dulce. See Sugar-cane. Canagud river, canalization of, ii. 269. Canal, i. 41, 48 ; ii. 264, 268, 269. Canalization, ii. 264, 268, 269. Canastillo, or Little-basket orchid, ii. 196. Candelaria district, Cardcas, i. 226. Cane, wild, i. 51. Cangrejos, island of, i. 78. Canilla de Venado, ii. 242. Cannel. See Coal. Cannon. See Fire-arms. Cano Amarillo (river), i. 260, 261, 312. Cano de Guariapo (river), i. 260, 261, 312. Cantharis, i. 53. Cantilo, Don Josd Maria, poet, ii. 230. Caobo tree, i. 293. Capachos plant, i. 51. Caparro river, i. 74. Capes, i. 47. Capitol, the, ii. 263, Carabobo, battle of, i. 132 ; ii. 225. Carabobo, State of, its rich lands, i. 61, 159, 163, 174, 176- Carabobo, valleys of, i. 165. Caraca islands, ii. 253. Caracas (capital), i. 23-28 : Climate of, i. 29 : Trade of capital, i. 30 : Population, i. 30, 31 : Vital sta tistics of, i. 31 : Schools of, i. 32 : Churches of, i. 32, 36 : Social life in, 1. 113-116: Peaceful state of, i. 118: Military troubles in, i. 143: Rainy season in, i. 187 : Earth- INDEX. 3°9 quakes of, i. 187 : Floods of, i. 187 : Telegraph lines of, ii. 133 : At tempted conquests of, ii. 156, 157, 158 : Sacked by Drake, ii. 168 : By the French also, ii. 170 : Streets of, ii. 264. Cardcas, flora of, ii. 81. Cardcas Indians, independence of, ii. 154. Caracas, rebellion of, ii. 277. Cardcas, valley of, i. 29, 47, 59, 151, 290 ; ii. 2, 6, 30, 59, 239. ' Caramba, ' meaning of 57- " . Vejuga, or natural rope, 1. 222. Venados, islands of, ii. 253. Venezolanos, 6 fuertes, i. 216. Venezuela, ancient or colonial his tory of, i. 19, 30; ii. 151-174- Venezuela, conquest of, ii. 169. _ Venezuela discredited abroad, i. 1 : Why it is, i. 177, 223, 267, note. Venezuela, geography of, i. 46-82. Venezuela, gulf of. See Maracaybo. Venezuela, ignorance respecting, i. 1. 177- Venezuela, modern history of, i. 122- 137- Venezuela, republic of, i. 46 : Extent of, i. 47 : Coast-line of, i. 47 : Mountains of, i. 47, 48 : Lakes of, i. 48 : Rivers of, i. 48 : Zones of, i. 49, 50: Vegetation of, i. 51: Minerals of, i. 51, 52 : Fauna of, i. 52, 53 : Population of, i. 53, 54 : Anthropology of, i. 54, 55 : Gov ernment of, i. 55 : Rulers of, i. 55, 56 : Laws of, i. 56 -. Revenues of, i. 56 : Religion of, i. 56 : Army of, i. 56, 57 : Education of, i. 57.: Commerce of, i. 58 : Debt of, i. 58: States of, i. 58-82. ' Venezuela, isolation of, i. 177. Venezuela, travellers in, who have brought ridicule on the country, i. 267, note. Venezuela, works relating to, 271- 293- Venezuelan civil wars, i. 138-150 : Works on Revolutions, ii. 2S7. Venezuelan Commission of London Exhibition, i. 318. Venezuelan curiosities, exhibition of, ii. 188, 295. Venezuelan Fine Arts Exhibition, the first, i. 127 : Its success, ii. 128: Description of some of the Draw ings, ii. 129 : The visitors to, ii. 244 : The picture gallery of, ii. 245- 247. Venezuelan mail schooner, 1. 9, 41, io8,~ note; ii. 149. Venezuelan society, author's intro duction to, i. 19 : Its culture, i. 266, note. Ventuari river, i. 78. 'Venus ' schooner, author engages it for expedition to Los , Roques, i. 194: Caught in a storm, i. 212 : In danger, i. 213. Verbena officinalis, i. 1 10, note. Vervain, plant, i. no, note. Vichada river, i. 78. Victoria, city of, i. 59, 153, 154 : Its telegraph line, ii. 133, 265. Victoria, Santa, a bone of, i. 96. Vilar, Don Enrique, his anagram on the name of Bolivar, i. 122. Villacinda, death of, ii. 155. Villa de Cura, i. 259. Villafafie, Sefior J. G., author, ii. 292. Villalonga, Don Jorge de, ii. 292. Villalpando, the traitor, ii. 168. Villdgas, Dr. Guillermo Tell, ii. 292. Villdgas, Juan, governor's delegate, ii. 154. ¦ Vinita de Iguana, 11. 1 75. Virgin islands, i. 6. Virgin (The), prominence of, in reli gion of South America, ii. 227. 'Virginius,' Cuban rebel steamer, ii. in. 344 INDEX. Vital statistics of Cardcas, i. 31. ' Vivo,' meaning of the word, i. 45, note. ' Volcano of the Avila,' the, ii. 13. Volcanic eruptions, conformation of established theory as to, ii. 55. Vomito negro, or black vomit, i. 42 ; ii. 112. Vuelta de Macarisao, i. 233. Vulture, the great harpy, ii. 188. Wall. See Precipices. Wall, Mr. P., geologist, ii. 292. Wallis, Mr F. J., i. 193 ; ii. 147. Walton, Mr William, author, i. 292. Wappaus, Dr. J. E., author, ii. 292. War. See Revolution. War of Independence, i. 57, 71, 77 : Episode in the, i. 84-88 : History of, i. 122-137 : Incident of, i. 155 ; Results of in Aragua, i. 160-163 : In Carabobo also, i. 164 ; ii. 224, 225. War of the Federation, i. 53, 143- 145, .r5i- Warcziewiczella, ii. 219. Warehouses. See Storehouses. Warm springs. See Thermal. Watchword. See Challenge. Water carriers, i. 97. Water-mill. See Water-wheel. Water, scarcity of, i. 202 : Want of on Naiguatd, ii. 39, 40, 45, 61-67. Waterfalls and cascades, i. 68, 79, 231, 254, 298; ii. 115. Watering-places, i. 20, 42. Waters, Black, of the Orinoco, i. 80. Waters, medicinal, i. 96, 202. Waters, thermal. See Thermal. Water-wheel, i. 117. Waterworks, i. 69 ; ii. 263, 264, 267, 268, 269. Weapons. See Indian. Wedding. See Marriages. Weinmannia hirta, ii. 184. ' Well of Life,' the, ii. 32, 67. 'Well of the Birds,' ii. 231. Welsares of Augsburg, Venezuela granted to the, ii. 153 : Disastrous rule of, i. 153, 154 : Their grant annulled, i. 154. Western Islands. See Azores. West Indian and Pacific Mail Com pany, i. 14, 15. West Indian Islands, 1. 6, 9, 15, 26; ii. 290. West Indies (English), cost of pro ducing raw sugar in, i. 168 : (French), cost of producing raw sugar in, i. 168. . Wharves, i. 21 : How constructed in Orchila, i. 284. Wheat, i. 50, 51 : Of Trajillo, i. 72 : Of Tachira, i. 73 : Of Merida, i. 73- Whey. See Queso. Whist, i. 113 : Leseur and Yanes' translation of work on, ii. 282. Wild cats, i. 52. Williamson, Professor W. C, ii. 295. Windmill, i. 197. Winds, prevailing, i. 20, 284. Windward Islands, i. 11. Wire ropes, i. 10, note. Wittstein, Sefiora Anita J. de, i. 225. Woodlands, rich. See Forests. Woodmen. See Charcoal-burners. ~ Wood, silicified, ii. 185. Woods, valuable. See Trees. Working classes, Venezuelan, i. 84 : Entertainment to, i. 104: Adrunken specimen of, i. 187 : Honesty of the masses, i. 223-225, 239, 248, 269, 294-302 ; ii. 29, 93, 244. Wourali (liquid) poison, i. 80. Wrecks — Of the 'Cuban,' i. 15, note: Of a cotton laden ship, i. 203: Of a bullion laden vessel, 1. 204 : Of the steamer ' Estrella,' i. 204 : Of an entire fleet, i. 205 : On the coast of the gulf of Maracaybo, ii. 135. Wullschkegelia, ii. 220. 'Ya-ACABO,' meaning of the cry, i. 76. Yanacona Indians, ii. 155. Yanes, Sefior Emilio, i. 228 : In ducements he offers to immigrants to settle on his estates, i. 308; ii. 292. Yanez, Dr., author, ii. 292. Yangues, Francisco Manuel do, author, ii. 292. Yankee captain, strange career of a, i. 180. Yankee. See Spanish- American. Yaracuy river, 1. 67. Yaracuy, State of, i. 67 : Roads of, ii. 265. Yellow-fever, i. 39, 42 : Author at tacked by, i. 109: Specific for, L no, note: Mild character of Vene zuelan type of, i. no; ii. 112. INDEX. 345 Yellows. See Liberales. Zapara, island of, its fortress, i. 70. Yuca plant, i. 51, 67, 152, 234, 238. Zones, i. 49, 50. Yuruari river, i. 78. Zoological Society, transactions of the, i. 266, note ; ii. 177. Zoology. See Fauna. Zuazola, the wretch, i. 125: His exe ZAMANG TREE, i. 156. Zambo, i. 54. cution, i. 126. Zamora, General, death of, i. 144. Zulia river, i, 73. Zamora, plains of (Cardcas), i. 271. Zulia, State of, i. 70, 71. Zamora, State of, i. 74, 75: Public Zumbador, mountain of, i. 73. works of, ii. 269. Zygopetalum, ii. 220. THE END. PRINTED BY BALLANTVNE, HANSON ANI> CO. EDINBURGH AND LONDON YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 9002 03080 8381 IF -^^'^ig^jeg, *£»