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Yale University Library

39002030972583

YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

FROM THE COLLECTION MADE BY
CHARLES SHELDON B.A. 1890
OF BOOKS ON NATURAL HISTORY
EXPLORATION -HUNTING & FISHING
GIFT OF FRANCIS P. GARVAN
B.A. 1897

EXTRACTS FROM LETTERS
DIARY AND NOTE BOOKS

Of this volume one hundred and fifty copies
were printed for private distribution only

Baruboedoer, the House of many Buddhas

EXTRACTS FROM THE LETTERS
DIARY AND NOTE BOOKS

OF

AMASA STONE MATHER
JUNE 1907 TO DECEMBER 1908

VOLUME II

PRIVATELY PRINTED BY
THE ARTHUR H. CLARE COMPANY
CLEVELAND. OHIO
1910

COPYRIGHT, I910» BY
AMASA STONE MATHER

Exd-
901 M
v. 2.

4

CONTENTS OP VOLUME II
Extracts from Diary (continued from Volume I) . .11
Two Men's Outfit for three Months' Shoot in Africa,
and Notes ....... 351
Accounts and Game Regulations .... 358
Appendix A - Notes on Industries .... 367
Grain Elevator
Cloisonne Manufacturing
Battek Work
Rug Making
Marble Carving and Inlaying
Rubber Planting
Appendix B - The Baruboedoer, written by Gilbert Little
Stark . . . . . . .380
Appendix C - Letter to W. Cameron Forbes . . . 391
Appendix D - Letter from W. Cameron Forbes . . 394
Bibliography ....... 407
Index ........ 415

ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOLUME II

Baruboedoer, the House of many Buddhas . Frontispiece
Village near Phyong-yang . . . . .15
Seoul . . . . . . . .15
Ming Tombs, Mukden . . . .25
Temple of Heaven, Peking . . . . .41
Doctor Morrison . . . . . .47
A Mandarin passes . . . . . .59
Starting for Mongolia . . . . .67
At the Gate of Chu-yung-kuan . . . .71
Where the Nankow Pass pierces the Great Wall of China . 75
An interesting Place for Loafing . . . .79
A Threshing-floor . . . . . .85
Down from the Desert of Gobi . . . .97
Da Shoya's Encampment ..... 103
Some of Da Shoya's Sheep and Cattle . . . 109
The Caravansary ...... 115
Ku Shan Monastery, above Foochow . . . 131
About noon we turned into still another side Valley . 153
At the Village of Tumpo . . . . .153
Difficulties in our Path ..... 157
We are made welcome by the Head-hunters of Laka Laka . 157
The Trail took us on up the river Valley . . . 165
Mount Morrison ...... 165
The Trail . . . finally brought us out of the Woods
to the bare grass-covered Summit of Ari San . . 173
A Brave of the Hosha Ban ..... 173
The Tomb of Salim Chisti at Fatehpur Sikri . . 207
Amber, the Citadel, Acropolis and one of the Reservoirs . 213
Detail of the old Palace, Amber .... 217
The Moon Steps of the royal Monastery, Anuradhpura . 227
General View of Anuradhpura from one of the great ruined
Dagobas ....... 231

10 ILLUSTRATIONS

The Queen's Bathing Tank . . . .231
A rainy Day in Passara ..... 235
The old Portuguese Fort and the Harbor of Mombasa . 239
The narrow crooked Streets of Mombasa . . . 239
Water-buck . . . . . . .251
A Kikuyu Village . . . . . .255
Sultan Wambugu and the Ladies of his Harem . . 255
Crossing the Chanya River ..... 259
A Glade in the equatorial Forests .... 263
Meru Porters curing Meat in Camp on the Lekiundra River 273
Looking for Buffalo . . . . . .285
Elmorani of the Masai ..... 301
Eland . . . . . . . .309
In a bamboo Forest ...... 317
Good elephant Country near Lake M'Gunga . . 317
On the Spurs of Kenia . . . . .321
Thorny Jungle about M'toto Andei, Kilimanjaro in the Dis
tance . . . . . . .339
The last Trek . . . . . . .347
Making Cloisonne ...... 369
Baruboedoer ....... 379

EXTRACTS FEOM DIARY
[Continued and Completed from Volume 1.]
Phyong-yang, Septembeb 6. My Korean friend came
down to see me off this morning, and helped me check my
stuff as far as An-tung. "While doing this I was able to
help a fat Russian newspaper-man, who could only speak
a little German. He wanted to go down to Chemulpo, at
the same time buying a ticket and checking his bag to
Phyong-yang, where he was going tomorrow. Hearing,
however, that I was going there today, he suddenly de
cided to accompany me. German was our medium, as
his was better than my French, and we had a very pleas
ant day. He was full of fun and anecdote, and kept me
laughing all morning. He was eager for information,
however, and asked me innumerable questions about
everything under the sun, getting me also to interpret
for him questions and answers to an English and an
American missionary, the only other foreigners on the
train. Even they, however, got off about noon at Kaizo,
and we were alone with some Japanese soldiers, coolies,
Korean peasants, an odd gentleman or two, and some
Chinese; We bought a couple of boxes of Japanese rice
and cooked vegetables, and as he wasn't used to handling
chop-sticks, this caused some fun at our humble tiffin.
We could get no beer, but did ourselves very well with
some sake. These cars -second class, and poor at that-
are built by the American Car and Foundry Company,
but the road is Japanese, built for the war. The line is
single track, and most of the bridges are temporary af
fairs of wood. The great bridge over the Han River, on
the American built road from Seoul to Chemulpo, is a

12 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol.
fine work with stone piers and steel girders, and said to
be one of the longest railway bridges in the world. In
the afternoon my friend Konstantinde Mickailov, gave
me some lessons in Russian, and asked me to write him to
Vladivostok how I find the line, bridges, country, etc. be
tween here and Mukden. He expects to trek off east
ward to Yeng Heung, on the sea, looking for signs of in
surgents. I made friends with a huge jovial Chinese
policeman and he presented me with a handful of cakes
this afternoon. His knowledge of English is limited to
the following short eloquent phrases : ' ' Me policeman,
me same time chop chop wood-man. All ight." The
country is fertile and well cultivated with much corn,
barley, beans, and buckwheat.
Later in the afternoon the valleys grew wider and rich
er, and the hills shutting them in, higher and more clear-
cut. At Yanzon, about five o'clock in the afternoon, we
passed a train load of Japanese troops bound for Seoul.
Their insignia showed them to be of the fifty-fourth regi
ment. The fifty-first and fifty-second are there now.
Phyong-yang, or Heiyo (the Japanese name) lies in the
center of a vast plain fringed by wooded hills. The city
is about two miles, and the villainous boarding house
where we stayed, about three miles from the station. We
arrived simultaneously with a beautiful burnt-orange sun
set. The city proper seems to be a place of about sixty
thousand, but it straggles out considerably. The Jap
element is less in evidence here than at Seoul, but they
have already put in telephone and telegraph, and are
starting a tram, line. These are some definite advantages
from their regime. A more doubtful one is the strict
policing of the streets, especially at night, since before
their advent this was not necessary. There were three
American, and one young British gold miner, besides the
pitiable wreck of the French proprietor, and some Japan
ese officers at table with us, I will not say dinner. The
talk ran mostly on hunting. The miners are all unan-

two] AN-TUNG 13
imous in favor of the Korean and Manchurian tiger,
which they say is the largest and finest in the world.
This bears out what I have always understood to be the
case, namely, that the Manchurian tiger is larger, more
thickly coated, and more vividly marked than even the
Royal Bengal tiger of India. I should like to be able to
stay over and join two of them on a three months' hunt
for bear, tiger, and leopard, which they are planning for
this winter. Mickailov4 turns out to be a lieutenant-
colonel, as well as correspondent for the St. Petersburg
News, and was at Vladivostok during the war, of which
he has some interesting tales to tell. He and I went out
for a late stroll " under the wide and starry sky." We
had a nice chat, and stopped for a little while at a native
theater, where we saw some acrobats, dancing girls, and
left just as a long and apparently historical monologue
started. We poked about for some time watching and
studying the Koreans at their evening occupations. They
are quite friendly to white people, and we entered sev
eral stores and houses and sat down for a few minutes
to see something of their home life. As we couldn't make
ourselves understood, we simply grinned and offered
them tobacco, of which they are inordinately fond.
An-tung, September 7. Up at six o'clock this morn
ing. A beautiful day. Bade goodbye and good luck to
jolly Mickailov and the Americans. Train left at eight,
with me as its only white passenger. My Chinese police-
* The following is a translation, as near as I could make it, of an extra
ordinary bit of paper which Mickailov presented me with this evening. It
purports to be a request for information; some of the words, which seem
to be Eussian, are left as they were -the German I translated.
"Koxcmraupan Nempobu of Muteupoh, Vladivostok.
To be till called for Cocmpedobas eve. To Konstantinde Mickailov a
letter from Mukden in English. Description railways Phyong-yang for
Mukden. Bridge Talse - material. State how much lines.
Other large bridge, tunnels, great stations. How great used the train,
total length, time of far distance to Mukden. When are the works! 'Mit
Gedariken,' Konstantinde Mickailov."

14 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
man turned up smiling with another present for me,
wrapped up in red and gold Chinese tissue paper. It
proved to be more cakes and some caraway seeds. He
says he is going to go chop chop to An-tung. There are
about a dozen officers in the car going to their up-coun
try posts, and many government railway coolies. About
nine o'clock we passed, on a beautiful road which runs
parallel to the track and to the river, what was either a
wedding procession or the state progress through the
land in native style of some high functionary. It dragged
along for about a mile. Many proud Korean gentlemen
were riding gaily caparisoned led-mules, others were car
ried in litters or in chairs, and there were quite a few
ladies in covered palanquins. One very large and splen
didly decorated one must have contained the bride -or
the official. Many bright banners, carried by stalwart
retainers, flaunted in the bright morning air. As they
stretched over so much of the roadway, I could see parts
of them in several different situations; resting in the
shade of a big tree, fording a small tributary stream, or
toiling up a hill. If one could have taken the entire pro
cession with a panoramic kodak, and given the picture its
proper colors, what a wonderful frieze it would make. If
it had been twenty years ago, I would have felt sure that
it was the annual embassy bearing tribute to Peking.
During the morning I saw thousands of coolies at work
on this line, some strengthening the roadbed, others build
ing a new roadbed, evidently for another track parallel
to the one we are traveling over. A few temporary
tracks have been laid upon it already, and bridge piers
have been sunk in the streams. The country continues
rich and smiling, but is getting lower and flatter. About
four-thirty, we reached Wijou. I had meanwhile made
the acquaintance of two Jap officers who spoke a little
German, and one who spoke a little English, and as my
Japanese is constantly improving, we got along quite well
together. They helped me through the customs, and got

Village near Phyong-yang

Seoul

AN-TUNG 17

some big husky Manchurian coolies to hustle our luggage
to the native ferry. One of the officers showed me the
battlefield, and the points of interest where the Japs
crossed. From what I had read of the battle and heard
from an eye witness, whom I met at Seoul, it seemed like
a good example of Russian stupidity. The aspect of the
country certainly bore this out. On the Manchurian side
of the river there are high hills, almost mountains, rising
steeply from the water, which, if properly fortified, would
have kept the Japs on this side, till today. In addition to
this careless omission -for they had only intrenchments
and a few guns on the hills - the Russians only used about
a third of their available troops in the defense of this
important position. The Boers, for instance, would
never have let slip such an opportunity ; and I doubt if a
Japanese army twice the strength of the one used, could
have forced a passage against a body of Boers half as
numerous as the Russians. The river is quite wide,
rather swift, but looks shallow. There is a great deal of
native shipping, even now. We bundled into a Chinese
craft of sorts, and were poled across in about half an
hour. There are comparatively few Jap troops here, as
everything is quiet as far north as this, I imagine. River
life on the Yalu was most interesting -Koreans paddling
about in little stubby dug-outs almost level with the water,
while the masts of the junks and fishing sampans moored
along the banks made a veritable forest. There are no
foreigners here except half a dozen American mission
aries, the Russian consul, and an American vice consul :
our consulate has only been here about a month. I found
a very good Japanese inn, and then spent upwards of an
hour trying to locate our vice consul, Mr. Arnell. I had
to draw a picture of the flag before I could get the Chin
ese to understand what I was after. The Manchurian
Chinaman is a big, tall, powerful fellow, who looks you
square in the eye -men of war from their youth up, whose
blood has ruled in China for two hundred years. The

18 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol.
permanent population here is about forty thousand, of
whom fifteen thousand are Japanese, but at present there
is a large floating element of traders, miners, and wood
cutters bringing in the fall supply from the country. I
got lost for a time in some of their encampments on the
hillslopes outside the town. A hot bath and a capital
Japanese supper made me forget the tedious two days on
the train. My room was next to that of a Japanese in
terested in the mines here. We opened the doors be
tween, and spent a very pleasant evening together. He
has traveled extensively in India, China, and Java, and
has even penetrated to Lhasa, disguised as a Chinaman.
He says it is a poor town of about forty thousand, over
half of whom are Buddhist monks. The monasteries are
interesting, and many of them picturesquely built on the
sides of cliffs or steep mountains. His name is Y. T.
Navita, and he wants me to write him about Africa, after
I have been there. He sent me in a wicker steamer-chair,
in which I am at present lounging with a pipe and a bottle
of beer.
Sokuko, September 8. While walking to the train this
morning about six-thirty, I saw a parasol that is a par
asol. It was oblong in shape, about sixteen feet long by
ten broad, and made of oiled silk. No half-way measures
here, thank you. Arnell sent me down a bon voyage note
and some sandwiches. I said ' ' train, ' ' but this perhaps
conveys a wrong impression, for my fifteen hours travel
ing today on the narrow gauge military construction road
(which I found is the only way of getting to Mukden
short of walking) was in a box-car. Twenty-seven of us
started in my car, mostly Chinese and Japanese coolies,
the rest soldiers and Koreans, so I considered myself
lucky in having gotten in early and secured some floor
space by piling my luggage on it. The roadbed was poor
and crooked, and the going pretty hard and uncomfort
able, but the scenery was grand. We wound up over the

two] SOKUKO 19
bleak Manchurian mountains, thanks to feats of engin
eering almost Swiss in their successful daring. The day
was perfect (Yoi tenk as the Japanese say) ; and I en
joyed it very much. About four we had an accident- two
cars were derailed, and the truck of one broken. They
were in a quandary for some time. I showed one of the
officers, by diagram, how they could lift the car off the
truck by using ties and logs as levers, and he explained
to the engineer and fireman, who finally patched things
up in about an hour. While waiting I was taking a stroll
up the hillside, when one of the soldiers came up and
grabbed hold of me from behind. I imagine he was only
fooling, but thought I wouldn't take any chances, and
as his position laid him open to one of the jiu jitsu tricks
I had learned in Kioto, I threw him over my shoulder in
to a convenient bush. He was so small, compared to me,
and the leverage of my high shoulder so great, that his
flying body described quite an arc. He himself did not
know jiu jitsu, nor did any of the other common soldiers,
and they evidently considered me quite an expert, espe
cially when I showed them my membership ticket in the
famous Kioto School of Manly Virtue. At six, we
reached a break in the line, and all got out. A lot of
husky railway coolies were waiting for us, and shoulder
ing the luggage, we tramped some seven miles over a
high pass and down across a wide sandy river bed, doing
the last two miles or so by starlight. We looked quite
like a hunting caravan, or a foraging party returning
from the foray -the soldiers and I with our rifles, and the
half naked coolies swinging along under their bundles
and bags. Another train waited us where the rail re
sumed and we climbed into similar miserable box-cars.
After we got started, nearly everyone went to sleep, falling
over each other in confused heaps. The officer in charge
of the troops on board was snoring peacefully with his
head in the lap of a Chinese coolie. I noticed this only
when striking a match to light a pipe, as the cars were not

20 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
provided with lights of any sort. For myself, I didn't
care to go to sleep, as stories I had heard at Seoul of the
Manchurian railways were still fresh in my ears. The
railway guards carry loaded rifles. It has happened sev
eral times during the last two years, and especially be
tween Mukden and Harbin, that in spite of this precau
tion, trains have pulled into the station with the guards
and several passengers killed and robbed. Bandits, with
which parts of Manchuria are infested even now, get on
at some station and mingle with the passengers until the
train is going through some unsettled part of the country
at night, when they rise up, cut throats and purses, and
drop off in the gloom, never to be found. I had struck
up an acquaintance with the only Jap gentleman aboard,
by regaling him with Peter's chocolate and hot coffee
from my Thermos bottle, and he helped me to get coolies
for my luggage, etc., although he spoke no English. He
and I and the officer in charge formed a sort of aristoc
racy and held ourselves aloof at one end of the car. We
each contributed something to the common weal : the gen
tleman spread a rug on the floor for us to recline on, I
contributed coffee and beer from my Thermos bottle, and
the officer kept the coolies and soldiers away from our end
of the car by beating them over the head with his walking
stick. We reached Sokuko about eleven, and I know no
more save that I found a Japanese rest-house, where I
got some tea, rice, and fish, and slept well in spite of the
fleas. Mukden, September 10. I awoke in time to see the sun
rise, and found myself in a beautiful Alpine valley shut
in by high hills. It is really a delightful little spot, and
two or three tinkling water falls add a charm to the scene.
The station was near the parade ground and barrack so
that I saw some troops, drilling before we pulled out.
They had a little mock battle, and were firing and charg
ing with great vehemence. Our officer got aboard just as

two] MUKDEN 21
the train pulled out and there was great saluting by
brother officers on rearing chargers. The scenery today
was really grand, winding up over mountain and stream,
and at one time we got quite friendly with a considerable
river, splendidly palisaded. Millet is extensively grown
here, and seems to be the staple food. There are several
varieties, the most common attaining a height of about
eight feet, and having a dark brown head. The stalks
are used for provender, fuel, and fence material. Only
about a third of the available area of Manchuria is under
cultivation, and this has been done mostly by the Chinese.
The Manchurians themselves do not form more than
twenty per cent of the population, since at the time of the
Conquest the great mass of the conquerors remained in
China, where they were required as garrisons in the new
territory. In the old days the Manchurians were war
riors, fishermen, and hunters, spending little of their time
in the cultivation of the soil. They are as inferior to
the Chinese in this respect and in intellectual ability as
they are their superiors in physique and courage. There
is, however, less physical difference between the men of
the two races, than between the women. This is undoubt
edly due to the fact that the Manchu ladies do not bind
their feet, which gives them a splendid upright carriage,
and also to the natural strength of character which is
easily discerned in their independent bearing and is in
strong contrast to the timidity and insipidity of the Chin
ese ladies.
Other agricultural products of the land are wheat, bar
ley, rice, buckwheat, and Indian corn. In fact the abun
dance of corn along all those f oughten fields between the
Yalu and Mukden made me think of the lines of Steven
son: We travelled in the print of olden wars
Yet all the land was green,
And peace we found and joy
Where fire and sword had been.

22 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol-
They pass and smile, the children of the sword,
No more the sword they wield,
And Oh, how deep the corn,
Along the battlefield!
Crops are grown in rotation, and much land about the vil
lage is held in common. In addition to what I have seen,
I understand that Manchuria also produces in varying
quantities, pulps, beans, vermicelli, fibre plants, some oil
yielding and dye plants, an opium poppy, tobacco, ginseng
(ginger), and other medical plants, vegetables, and fruits.
Her animal and mineral products are not less important,
since the soil of most of Manchuria only admits of cul
tivation during about six months in the year. They form
a rather interesting list: silk, furs, and skins, musk,
bristles, hair, felt, carpets and rugs, bones and horns,
chamois leather, wax, fishes, gold, silver, copper, lead,
iron, coal, asbestos, and soda. Manchuria, though, as
can be seen, fairly rich in products, is miserably poor in
manufactures and industries. Nearly all her raw ma
terial is exported, and such imports as opium, cotton, and
woolen goods, yarns, hardware, china, etc. are a necessity.
What industries she has are local and rather crude : the
manufacture of bean cake and bean oil, of salt, and of
millet wine. The roads, which have been in miserable
condition on account of the ice, snow, and ruts in the win
ter, and the impassable mud during spring and early sum
mer, have been largely to blame for this stagnation, and
ten years more may see a wonderful change in the indus
tries as well as the exports and imports of the country.
The rice, which is grown here in small quantities, does
not seem to require the same amount of water for cultiva
tion that Japanese rice does. As in Korea, the native
idea of a chimney is simply a hole in the wall, and as the
houses in the country are low and often sunk a couple
of feet in the ground, they are very smoky.
There were troops at nearly every station, and we oc
casionally passed ancient walled towns and ruined tern-

two] MUKDEN 23
pies. The commanding officer on board has got it into
his head that I am a United States military officer, or at
least an official of some kind, out here on a special mis
sion. I suppose he bases this opinion partly on account
of the number of questions I have asked as to the number
and disposition of the Japanese troops in Manchuria and
Korea, partly on account of the amount of luggage I have
with me and my rifle, and partly on account of the big red
seal on my passport. I pointed out to him the remains
of some Russian fortifications, which he in turn showed
to his men, giving them a little talk in regard to them,
which I couldn't understand. We have continued our
system of local seclusion at one end of the car, and I
again contributed cold beer from my Thermos bottle at
our common tiffin.
We had a pleasant, if tiring, day, reaching Mukden,
or rather the station, which is about three miles outside
the walls, at ten o'clock that evening. My friends had
my luggage in a Peking cart before I was fairly out of
the train. They then bade me goodbye, and I was
bumped and rattled along in this springless, seatless, low-
roofed, two-wheeled, one-horse affair to the city. It was
a beautiful night. As we got inside, I noticed Chinese
soldiers on duty with fixed bayonets, every hundred
yards. My friends of the train had told the driver, where
to take me, and we at last turned up at a pretty poor Jap
anese inn, but I was so chilled through by the time I got
there that I was glad of anything and turned right in,
after a cup of tea. Slept late the next morning, and then
went over to the American consulate-general, where 1
found Straight, a Cornell man, and Marvin of Harvard,
whose place as teacher at Groton, Dick Danielson is tak
ing. They are both mighty fine chaps; and we found
many mutual friends. They are amply housed in an old
Chinese temple outside the walls of the city. Their offi
ces, sitting-room, dining-room, bed-rooms, kitchen, bath
room, etc., are each separate buildings, all enclosed with

24 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY ^^^__
a wall. They have rigged up a flag pole and a very de
cent tennis court in one of the temple quadrangles.
Straight got me a pass to the North Ming tombs, and
after a little visit we walked out there, about two miles
and a half. The track led across the great battlefield -a
rather desolate looking plain -and he pointed out the
strategic and interesting points of the famous and bloody
three days' fighting here. The mounds under which the
Russian dead were buried are clearly visible. Through a
little thicket of alders, pines, and low bushes on the edge
of a swamp we came upon the wall around the tombs. A
great crowd of Chinese soldiers helped open the ponder
ous gate, and we entered with some pomp. The place is
quite extensive, with walls, towers, battlements, and great
towered gateways. The stone animals lining the main
approach, and especially the great turtle with the upright
carve stele on its back in one of the temples, are very fine.
I returned to the consulate for lunch. Afterwards,
while chatting with a young Swede in the commercial con
sular service, I couldn't help overhearing a most inter
esting talk Straight was having with the Chinese chief of
police (at least such parts as he translated to Marvin,
for he speaks Mandarin fluently) about a recent affray
between Japs and Chinks, which he complains are only
too frequent, and the Chinks can get no justice. After a
visit to the bank to have my Jap notes changed to Mex
dollars, I went to the foreign office. At first Mr. Chu
didn't want me to see the famous palace treasures, and
made several excuses, but I stayed and chatted with him
and the minister of commerce. He graduated from some
technical school in the United States, and we got quite
chummy over Chinese tea and Russian cigarettes, so when
I again urged my plea, bringing base flattery to my aid,
they procured the key and a pass, and also a pass to the
North-east Tombs for tomorrow. The treasures were
truly barbaric in their splendor, gold-sheathed daggers
literally hilt-encrusted with diamonds, vestments sown

2J
C c Ec
-s.

o

MUKDEN 27

with countless seed-pearls in intricate design, gold hel
mets and vases and ropes of pearls, great rubies and car
buncles. There were rooms full of priceless porcelains,
blue and white "plum-blossoms," exquisite "powder-
blue ' ' Persian vases, dainty sam-shu goblets frail as egg
shells, bowls of pure undecorated royal yellow, with the
Imperial Dragon swimming beneath the glaze, deep cream
pieces, or rose and amethyst with handles and quaint dec
orations. I longed to loot the place.
I went to mine hotel for a change, and returned to the
consulate for tennis, " Swedish " bath and dinner. Both
Straight and Marvin warble and we did a few stunts in
that line. I taught them several of our recent New
Haven creations, and we rendered some of these with con
siderable success at a serenade outside the German con
sulate. While imbibing a little refreshment here later, I
heard someone say that Harland Beach had appeared in
the town. I am very eager to see him, as he has been
helping to arrange for our overland trip from Chang-sha
to Canton, and he also, I understand, wants to see me
about the route to Seoul via An- tung and Wi-ju. Straight
had a lot of mighty amusing stories and little anec
dotes about consular and diplomatic happenings in vari
ous parts of the east. He wants me to join him on a hunt
which he plans to undertake in about a week, and I think
I will do so if I can get Gil also. I think I can persuade
him, as although he doesn't care for hunting, this trip
will in reality be much more than that, and about as in
teresting a one as can be taken in this part of the world.
Straight is very well known and liked by all the big Chin
ese officials up here and as he is making this trip a con
sular one, and will travel in his official capacity, he will
be granted a large escort by the Manchurian viceroy, and
every courtesy and facility will be accorded the party.
In this way we shall not only see the country and the peo
ple more intimately and have opportunities to gather
more information from the inside, and not as mere tour-

28 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
ists, but we shall have every opportunity for a good hunt.
Word will be sent on ahead that we are on the lookout for
tiger, leopard, Peking stag, and antelope, and that we
will offer rewards for authentic news of their where
abouts in proportion to the above rating of the animals.
Should we mark down a tiger or leopard, we can use our
soldiers as beaters, while a small private expedition, such
as Gil and I had thought of getting up, would be stranded
in this respect.
They gave me some lurid literature to read on the train
when I should be leaving (Hewlett and another of his
ilk) ; and the old German doctor insisted on my com
ing to the proud dinner he is giving tomorrow night.
I set out about eleven-thirty, intending to stop at the
Chinese Inn, where Beach was supposed to be staying, en
route to my own Japanese one. Straight gave instruc
tions to the rickshaw coolie, but what he actually told him
I don't yet know, for he took me first to a series of broth
els. At each one of these I blindly entered, asking for
Beach. They seemed to think I wanted beer, and brought
it, and I had much ado to get out of the district. Then
the coolie took me through some dark little alleys to the
office of some Japanese merchant or other. When I came
out, he was still there and guided me to three different
Chinese hotels, where I routed the Chinks out of bed, only
to find that Beach wasn't there. I then decided to make
for my own hotel, but the coolie took me back to several
of our former points of call, which it seems have much
the same name as that of my hotel. By this time, as we
were off in some remote corner of the town, and it was
dark and cold, I lost my bearings and my temper. None
of the people seemed to know where my hotel was. I was
so enraged at the poor stupid coolie that I got out and
left him, and wandered about the dark streets for an hour
or so, my arms filled with books and tennis clothes. I
dimly remember several violent altercations with several
Chinese soldiers, who struck me as being particularly

two] MUKDEN 29
senile. I finally ran across a Japanese gentleman, who
seemed to know a thing or two. He insisted upon my
first having some beer at his hotel, and then guided me to
mine. It is set way back in a court, and the outer gate
was closed, so that I might have passed the place half a
dozen times without knowing it. We pounded on the gate
for about ten minutes, and I finally got in about two-thirty
o'clock in the morning. I have since found out from
Straight that I am really not stopping at the inn whose
name was given me at all. The cart driver probably
made the mistake when my friend of the train told him
where to take me. No one has ever heard of this place
before. It's a sort of Castle Nowhere and even in the
daytime I have always to point out its silent court to the
rickshaw coolie, so that it was no wonder I missed it in
the dark.
Mukden, September 11. I spent most of the morning
trying to locate Mr. Beach, and finally got on his trail at
Dr. Christy's hospital. Dr. Christy was most kind -I
had a letter to him from Dr. Aveson - and wanted me to
stay with him, but I had to push on to Mr. Robertson's,
a missionary with whom Beach is staying. He was out,
however -no one knew where- so I left a note telling him
to look me up at the consulate, as Straight has asked me
to stop there during the rest of my stay. Returning to
the consulate about noon, I found that he had been there
looking for me during the morning, and had also left a
note. After lunch I took a snooze, as it was very hot,
read and wrote, turning up for some splendid tennis at
about four. Beach had sent over another note making a
date with me for tea at Dr. Christy's between six and six-
thirty, and stating that the Chang-sha- Canton game was
" on. " I accordingly went out there after tennis, but
through the irony of fate, missed him again, as my watch
was Japanese railway time, and his local Chinese. He
had already left for the train, but Dr. Christy entertained

30 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
me and kindly showed me all over his splendid new hos
pital. Returning to the consulate, I climbed into a suit
of Straight's dress clothes, and we hied ourselves over to
the Deutschen kreutzers. There were some half a dozen
Chinese officials, besides Russians, Germans, and we
three Americans, and it proved a good game. These Ger
mans are the kind who feel insulted if you miss a drink,
and as they pressed bumpers of champagne on us after
the cocktails and before the dinner, at which sherry, white
and red wines, more champagne, cordials, and port flowed
free, things looked promising for a wet night. During
the course of the dinner, Straight, Marvin, and I " lifted
the rosy goblet high " (I refer to its acoustic properties)
to the great delight of the Chinamen, who had never heard
singing in harmony before. The good old German cus
tom of catching one's eye, lifting the glass, and insisting
upon its being emptied for every toast, was employed,
and I being the only stranger, " they took me in." The
commander of the Chinese forces in Manchuria, who sat
on my left, was a serious old toper, and always emptied
his glass with a great flourish, while the bespectacled
German doctor on my right nearly proved my undoing
later. After dinner there were some very funny scenes,
and I can see now the fat old German consul dancing
around with some dignified Chinese Mandarin, shrieking
with laughter, in his arms. There was a Russian with a
good voice, who completed our quartet. Every time he
made a good swipe, he would run and put his head in a
chair, lift up one leg and wave it slowly to and fro. His
name began with a very loud K-I never got the rest.
He contributed a very fair tenor. Of the rest, no more.
Shan-hai-kuan, September 12. Up at five, and had a
cold bath and tea. Leaving a note of thanks to Straight
and Marvin, who were still " pounding their mattresses,"
I dashed for the station in the cold gray dawn. The ser
vice on this Mukden to Tientsin branch of the North

two] PEKING 31
China Railway was splendid, and I had a very comfort
able first class compartment to myself. The stretch be
tween Mukden and Shing Ming Tung has only been opened
to traffic about two weeks. The dining car was good, but
expensive. It was very muggy this afternoon, and the
scenery uninteresting, so I dabbled in the Fool Errant
and Manchuria, an excellent and meaty work. Got to
Shan-hai-kuan at seven-thirty o'clock in the evening.
My ankle, whose recently healed sprain I bruised last
night, is quite swollen and painful.
Peking, Friday, the thirteenth of September. This
should have been an unlucky day, and it was in the fact
that I did not meet Gil in Peking as per appointment,
but it was a very interesting one. The railway journey,
if long, was pleasant, and there was much to see. The
Great Wall of China comes down through Shan-hai-
kuan to the sea, and forms here the extreme southern
boundary of Shing-king Province, which is the bulk of
Manchuria. The scenery, though not extraordinary, was
very pleasing, the sea being occasionally visible, and the
distant hills sometimes closing up on us. We ran along
side and crossed innumerable canals and shallow rivers,
down which loaded junks were sailing with their great
yellow sails out, wing and wing, or being towed up stream
by coolies. The crowd at the stations grew more and
more interesting and cosmopolitan, Chinamen, Japanese,
Manchurian soldiers, tall bearded Sikh policemen whom
the English have introduced from India, Americans, Rus
sians, English, French, and Germans, all jostling togeth
er. I got talking with an Englishman on the train who
had been on the march to Peking with the allies. He
pointed out several historic points. As we drew farther
south and nearer to Tientsin, the country seemed more
and more thoroughly cultivated. There had been heavy
floods early in August, and much of the low flat farm
land between Tientsin and Peking was still under water.

32 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol-
Little damage was done, however, except to mud houses,
which are easily rebuilt, and to crops other than rice.
We passed through Tientsin about two o'clock, and puffed
through the wall of Peking at six, forty-five. Inside this
outer Chinese wall, which Genghis Khan started and Kub-
lai Khan completed around the then capital of their em
pire described by Marco Polo in such magnificent terms, I
was surprised to find not a great busy city, but the same
smiling thickly populated countryside which we had been
passing through outside it. Even in their days, the
Khans never expected the city would grow up to the walls.
It was more in the nature of a fortified section of the
country to which a large part of the population could fly
for refuge, than the capital of an empire.
Thrice thirty miles of fertile ground
With walls and towers were girdled round,
And there were gardens bright with sinuous rills
Where blossomed many an incense bearing tree,
And there were fountains, ancient as the hills
Enfolding sunny spots of greenery.
The Hotel Wagon Lits, plose to the Water Gate through
which the Japanese forced their entrance in 1900, is sur
prisingly good and clean, though expensive and not yet
completed. Gil is neither here, nor is there any word
from him.
Peking, September 14. Called on Mr. Rockhill-a
great friend of Aunt Clara -at our embassy, and he was
most cordial. He said that he had already gotten a boy
for me, but didn't think much of the chances for big game
in north or central China or Mongolia. Manchuria, he
says, is the best place for that around here. He spoke
of several other trips, told me some of the best things to
see in Peking, put a horse at my disposal, and invited me
to lunch on Sunday. I went to the bank, where I found
no word from Gil, did a little necessary shopping, and
had another abscess attended to at the Methodist Mission

two] PEKING 33
Hospital. I am not at all sorry to have more time than
I had anticipated for Peking, as it is one of the most in
teresting cities in the whole world. Few cities (with the
possible exception of ancient Troy and others in Asia
Minor) have had so many distinct existences as Peking.
Where Peking now stands there has been a city for three
thousand years. In the year 1121 b.c, it was called
Chi ; during the fifth century b.c, it was the capital of the
state of Yen; it was destroyed during the reign of Ch'in
Shih Huang, 221 b.c, but was rebuilt and continued of
some importance until the fourth century of the Christian
era, when it became the capital of a small Tartar state.
For some centuries thereafter it went under the name
of Chi, Yen, or Yu Chou, during which time it was the
chief city of a department. In 936 a.d., it was taken by
the Liao or Kitan Tartars, was made the capital of their
state, but was a dependent of the Chinese Empire. This
tribe was conquered by the Kin or Chin Tartars in 1125,
and this city was made their capital under the name of
Chung Tu, or Yen Ching, the wall of which is still to be
seen in the southwest of the present city. The Chin dynasty
was overthrown by the Mongols under the leadership
of Genghis Khan in 1215 a.d., and Yen Ching was reduced
to the grade of a provincial city. It was made the cap
ital of the Mongol Dynasty by Kublai, the grandson of
Genghis, and a wall twenty miles in circuit was built
around it, thus making it occupy a much larger space than
it does at present. He called it, as we learn from Marco
Polo's description, Cambaluc, the City of the Khan. The
capital was moved to Nanking by the first emperor of the
Ming, but was transferred to the north again by the third
emperor of that dynasty, and the palaces of the Mongols
were repaired and utilized for his court. It was thus it
got the name Peking [northern capital] in contra-distinc-
tion from Nanking [southern capital]. The present wall
of the Tartar City, which is about twelve miles in circuit,
was begun at this time, although it was not called the Tar-

34 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
tar City until the Manchus took possession of Peking in
1644. At that time this, the northern part of the city,
was given over to the victorious army for habitation, an
army which consisted not only of Manchus, but of Mon
gols and some northern Chinamen as well. These were
divided into the eight banners which were distinguished
by the colors, yellow, white, red, and blue, and the separa
tion of these into plain and bordered. Nearly the whole
of the Tartar City, except that occupied by the palace,
the Yamens, and the residences of the princes, was once
owned by the Banner-men, but during recent years, ow
ing to their inaptitude for work and business and the de
crease in their pensions, they have become poor and have
sold or pawned much of it to the Chinese. The ethno
graphical differences have largely disappeared or been
greatly modified, both by the intermarrying of the Ban
ners, and the marrying of the Banners with the Chinese,
so that it is almost impossible to distinguish a Chinaman
from a Manchu. The feet, carriage, dress, and arrange
ment of the hair in the shape of a long cross-board, dis
tinguishes the Manchu women from their Chinese sisters.
The Manchu or Pekinese language, had, some years ago,
almost disappeared, except as a court language and as
taught in the schools, where it was regarded as dead.
More recently, however, the Chinese government is reviv
ing it in the hopes of making it universal, as at present
so many dialects are spoken that men as near neighbors
as the inhabitants of Amoy and Swatow cannot under
stand each other. The lines in social life among the high
er classes are tightly drawn, so that a Manchu princess or
lady of high rank meets a Chinese lady of equal rank with
somewhat of embarrassment, or vice versa. Great men,
when they go abroad through the streets, are accompanied
by a motley band of retainers and hangers on, mounted
on shaggy Mongol ponies, and ready to fight for the
house whose salt they eat. This is very suggestive of the
old baronial days in England. I passed a mandarin in a

two] PEKING 35
closed cart this afternoon, surrounded and followed by
nearly a hundred horsemen, much as Warwick might have
been. The wall of the Tartar City is sixty-two feet wide at
the base, forty feet high, and fifty feet wide at the top,
with an extra six foot balustrade on the outside, and a
three foot one inside, that on the outside being, of course,
loop-holed. There is a high fortified tower over each of
the nine gates, and numerous ramps connect the wall with
the city. The Imperial City is situated in the center of
the Tartar City, and is encircled by a wall six feet thick
and sixteen feet high. It is about a mile square, and con
tains most of the public buildings, yamens, and residences
of the more important princes and officials. The Forbid
den City is inside the Imperial City, and forms the
center of a regular Chinese puzzle, and surrounded by
a moat inside of which is a thirty foot wall - crenelat
ed. The Forbidden City occupies less than half a square
mile, and is made up of the palaces, residences of the im
perial servants and eunuchs, and an odd temple or two.
In the afternoon I went through the Tartar City, and
saw first the Astronomical Observatory, which was built
in 1296 by the Mongol dynasty. Some of the splendidly
carved bronze instruments were presented by Louis IV.
It was the looting of these instruments by the Germans
which called forth the protest of General Chaffee. They
have all been returned now but the celestial globe, which,
however, was the finest of all. I was interested in watch
ing some Chinese troops drilling on some open land be
low the observatory. They were doing the goose step in
the true Prussian manner, and seemed to be taking rather
kindly to it. Close by are the ruins of the Examination
Hall. It had accommodations of the roughest Spartan
kind for ten thousand students, and was built in the fif
teenth century. Thousands of students used to take the
examinations here annually, which entitled them to hold
any office which might be conferred upon them. I next

36 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
went to the imposing Lama Temple with its many inner
buildings and courts and beautiful golden tiles. It is a
Buddhist temple, and is said to contain over a thousand
Lamas or Mongol priests. These priests are divided into
four classes according to the subjects of their study :
First class, about three hundred, who study the doc
trine of " the empty nature."
Second class, about three hundred, who study the
' ' Tantras, ' ' in Tibetan translations.
Third class, about two hundred, who study astronomy
and astrology, a la Hindoo.
Fourth class, about one hundred and fifty, who study
medicine, according to the Chinese.
In addition to these students, there are almost an equal
number of Lamas, mostly Mongol, who are ruled over by
a living Buddha, usually a Tibetan. The Lamas are a
pretty rough looking lot, and many are said to be refugees
from justice. In the old days it was pretty dangerous
for a foreigner to go in here, and more than one has had
to use a revolver to get out. Even now they crowd about
one in a ruffianly way, importuning for money and leer
ing hideously. The emperor is supposed to visit this
temple once a year, and, although a Confucian, confers
with the living Buddha. The finest of the treasures was
the great carved wooden mountain covered with images,
in a dim inner building, and a gigantic statue of Buddha
in the last temple of all. From here I went to the Con
fucian Temple, whose simplicity and dignity were in great
contrast to the noisy reeking place I had just left. No
avaricious priests disturbed me here as I paid homage to
" the throneless king " in the grass-grown courtyards of
his temple. Somewhat connected with this temple is the
semi-religious Hall of the Classics, whose beautiful por
celain arch of blue, green, and yellow tiles is one of the
finest sights in China. Confucianism is more than a
mere religion. It is a system of manners and morals, a
school of philosophy and religion rolled into one. The

two] PEKING 37
Hall of the Classics, which completes the training ac
quired in the Confucian Temple, is, as its name indicates,
an educational institution -Kuo Tse Chien, a college for
the sons of the empire. There are marble monuments
here having engraved upon them the entire text of the
Four Books and the Five Classics.
The Drum Towers, where the night watches are boomed
out, and the Bell Tower, both command splendid views
over the city. An interesting story is told of the casting
of this bell. The Emperor Yung Le, celebrated for so
many magnificent enterprises, ordered one Kuan Yu, a
high official, to cast such a bell. For months he exercised
all his ingenuity in preparing the moulds for this and
four other bells of equal weight. When all was in readi
ness the emperor and the court with the high officials were
invited to witness the casting. A multitude gathered,
and as the cauldron was tipped to the music of the im
perial band, the official stood breathless awaiting the re
sult only to find when the bell was taken from the mould
that it was honeycombed and wholly unfit to present to
His Majesty. When this was reported to the emperor
he was naturally disappointed, but ordered him to try
again. He did so but with similar results. The emperor
was now angry and calling him into his presence ordered
him to try once more, assuring him that in case of failure
he would pay the penalty with his head. Kuan Yu went
home disappointed and discouraged. Now it happened
that he had but one child -a daughter whom he loved
dearly. When she saw her father thus cast down, she
begged that he would tell her the cause of his sorrow.
for a long time he refused, but finally told her all. She
said a few words of encouragement and secretly con
sulted a soothsayer as to the cause of the repeated fail
ures. He told her that unless the blood of a young girl
was mixed with the metal, the third casting would be as
much of a failure as the others had been. She went home
and encouraged her father all she could, and when the

38 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
time for the third casting came requested that she be al
lowed to witness it. She was permitted to do so and
made her way up near the cauldron, where she stood be
side it, and when it was tipped leaped into the moulten
mass. Someone caught her by the foot but her shoe
came off in his hand, and her blood mingled with the
metal of the bell, which when it was taken out proved to
be a work of absolute perfection. Now when the bell is
struck, there is a moan which follows, which the Chinese
say is the voice of the girl calling for her shoe [wo hsieh] .
If any credulous foreigner does not believe this tale, he
will be shown the shoe, which is still preserved in the
bell tower, and which is, of course, proof positive.
The Coal Hill, with its five pavilions, is an interesting
place, as is also the Ta Kao Tien Temple, where the em
peror comes to pray for rain. It is quite near his exit
from the Forbidden City, whose golden roofs I could see
over the wall. The emperor only comes out of the For
bidden City about half a dozen times during the course
of the year, and always for some specific purpose : to cele
brate the ceremonial of plowing, to pray at the tomb of
his ancestors, etc., or to take his annual vacation at the
summer palace in the western hills. On the occasion of
any of these egresses, the streets through which he is
to pass are covered with clean golden sand, and golden
covered cloths are stretched in front of all the houses
and side streets. No one is allowed to look at the em
peror (the penalty in the old days was death) ; and he,
for his part, has no idea of what his country and capital
are like. He probably imagines it a very clean and pleas
ant place.
It's funny to see a great sturdy Chinaman riding
along on a diminutive donkey about the size of a St.
Bernard, his knees hunched up to his chin, or else his
legs trailing in the dust. There are very few women to
be seen in the streets, and few seem to be traveling about,
even in closed chairs. Those whom I did see, were, of

two] PEKING  39
course, painted as befits a Chinese lady of quality, and lav
ishly ornamented with flowers and jewelry. The delicacy
and richness of the embroidery on their robes is prover
bial. The city is, of course, dirty, but not so dirty as I had
thought, and has the reputation of being much cleaner
than the southern cities. Several new broad streets were
laid out in 1901, through the heart of the city, which aid
much in getting about, and all the streets seem to be well
policed. Chinese houses consist of a series of small
stone buildings, one story high - dining-room, sitting-
room, bedroom, office, bathroom, etc. -set in a small gar
den, the whole enclosed by a high wall. Going through
the streets, therefore, one sees practically nothing of the
home fife, as in Japan and southern China, where the
houses are of wood, and more open to the world. Every
thing looks colorless and forbidding. From a point of
vantage, however -the walls or towers -the city looks
as green and parklike as Paris itself. The very fact
that each man has his own little enclosure is conducive
to his giving more attention to his trees and flowers than
he otherwise would. The Chinese military are very
much in evidence, with their queues tucked up in under
their hats. In contrast to the bare-legged Japs, the Chin
ese coolies wear long trousers, but go naked from the
waist up. They are a fine, chesty looking lot. The
European concession, or legation quarter, had some good
substantial buildings, notably the banks, embassies, the
German Club, and this hotel. I have also been struck by
the apparent unsociableness of the Chinese. They don't
seem fond of each other. Even in a crowd, each man
seems mentally alone. They are scarcely ever seen chat
ting or joking together, and seldom go arm in arm, or
hand in hand, as do the Japs.
Dined with a pleasant and interesting German mer
chant, and later met the representative of the Krupp peo
ple, who is here hoping to get a large order for guns from
the Chinese government.

40  EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  ^____
Peking, Sunday, Septembeb 15. Raining, so slept late,
and then looked up Mr. Robert T. Gayley of Princeton
football fame, at his Y.M.C.A. Finally found him at the
American Board of Missions, and had a pleasant chat
with him. He also scouts the idea of Mongolia being
a good place for shooting, but says it is a most interest
ing country. I attended Chinese service here, conducted
by Dr. Ament, who was very kind and asked me to tiffin
with him tomorrow. Met several other missionaries,
among them a couple of young Princeton grads. Had
tiffin and a pleasant afternoon with Mr. Rockhill, and
later met Dr. Riggs of the U.S. Marines (who form our
legation guard) for medical purposes. After tea took a
walk through the town in the rain and bought some pos
tals and pictures. Dipped heavily into Things Chin
ese after dinner tonight. Turned in about one-thirty,
and was kept awake for some time by mosquitoes.
Peking, September 16. A beautiful warm, blue morn
ing, rather cloudy in the afternoon. Visited the Yellow
and the Great Bell Temples outside the walls of the Tar
tar City. Both are very fine with their green and gold
tiles, splendid carvings, and sun-soaked courtyards.
There were no impecunious priests here, but some bright
and amusing children followed me around and robbed me
of all of my coppers. Passed many large flocks of sheep
grazing on the meadows outside the wall. Had luncheon
and a pleasant talk with Dr. Ament and the Prince
ton lads. This afternoon went out to the Great Temple
of Heaven, in the Chinese city. Its numerous buildings
with their marble gates and blue, green, and gold tiled
roofs are scattered through several miles of park land,
now sadly neglected. In one corner the European resi
dents have their polo field, which I think is a disgrace and
ought to be stopped. You might as well play ping-pong in
the chapel of Trinity Cathedral. The worship at this
temple is the most important of all the religious obser-

Temple of Heaven, Peking

PEKING 43

vances of the Middle Kingdom, and constitutes a most
interesting remnant of the ancient Polytheistic cultus
which prevailed in China before the Rationalism of Con
fucius and the Monotheism of Buddhism predominated in
the empire. Although the ceremonies of the sacrifice are
very complicated, they are kept with the strictest sever
ity. The chief of these is at the winter solstice. On De
cember twenty-first the emperor goes in a sedan chair
covered with yellow silk and carried by thirty-two men,
preceded by a band of musicians, and followed by an im
mense retinue of princes and officials on horseback. He
first goes to the Tablet Chapel, where he offers incense
to Shang Ti and to his ancestors with three kneelings and
nine prostrations. Then going to the great altar, he
inspects the offerings and kneels on the great circular
stone, surrounded by the circles of the terraces and
farther circle of the horizon. He knows that here he is
at the center of the universe, for if a hole were sunk far
enough straight below him, it would reach the center of
the world. There are no images of any kind connected
with the temple, the only offerings being a bullock (two
years old, and without blemish) various productions of
the soil, and a cylindrical piece of blue jade about a
foot long, formerly used as a symbol of sovereignty. The
bullocks are fed in the park which surrounds the altar,
and used to be killed by the emperor, though now they are
slaughtered by an official appointed for the purpose.
Near the altar is the large iron furnace for the whole
burnt offerings, about nine feet high and faced with green
glazed tiles. This furnace was used for the cremation
of the Sikh soldiers who died in camp during the occu
pation by the British in 1900. There is a covered altar,
smaller but of similar shape, which is used in bad weath
er. It has upon it a lofty circular triple-roofed temple
of about one hundred feet, covered with blue tiles, and
whose eaves are beautifully painted in brilliant colors.
From here the emperor goes to the Palace of Abstin-

44 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol-
ence, or Hall of Penitential Fasting. The next morn
ing very early he dons his sacrificial robes and proceeds
to the open altar, where he kneels and burns incense, of
fers a prayer to Shang Ti, and presents incense to his
ancestors, whose tablets and shrines are arranged about
the altar. There are some splendid great trees in the
parks. The Temple of Agriculture, nearby, is smaller
than the Temple of Heaven and contains a fine park
planted with trees and covered with grass, in which the
sacrificial cows are fed. This temple was used as a camp
by the American soldiers during the occupation of 1900,
and, like the Temple of Heaven, was but little injured.
At one time some " rough-housing" soldiers upset one
of the urns, but when it was reported to the officer in
command, the whole company was turned out, the urn
properly replaced, and the troops lectured on the im
propriety of injuring anything belonging to the temple.
Dined with Dr. Riggs, Judge Harvey, and Captain
Reeves, our energetic and entertaining young military at
tache here. Got a letter from Straight tonight, enclosing
letters to several of his pals here in Peking, and urging
me to come up, bringing Gil with me, and stay until time
to start on our tour of exploration and hunting. An
interesting evening, after which I read and turned in very
late. Peking, September 17. Called on Mr. Bland, to whom
I had a note. He is a pleasant and interesting resident
of many years standing, and we chatted on China, Mon
golia, and hunting. He rather aims to be the Kipling
of China, and has written a couple of books of stories
about the people and the country, which Straight has il
lustrated. Then I dropped in at our embassy, talked
over plans and poured over maps, and read the New York
papers of August fourteenth, which are just in. Met our
secretaries, Haskins, Fletcher, and Deering, who seem

two] PEKING 45
very nice, especially Haskins.5 Called on Mr. Jamison,
an American architect and engineer, and one of the best
known and liked foreigners in Peking. He was very cor
dial, and lent me An Australian in China by Dr. Morrison,
being an account of the latter 's trip up the Yangtse-
kiang, and over to Bhamo, about twenty-five years ago.
He was the first man to do this, and started unarmed and
unescorted and knowing scarcely any Chinese, though he
was in native costume. It would be interesting to com
pare this book with the account which Purdy and Hervey
will have when they come out. After lunch Dr. Riggs
and I wandered through the enticing bazaars of the Chin
ese town, haggling over amber snuff bottles, jade bowls,
carved ivory, enamel-ware, old knives and chop sticks,
and curious looking thumb-rings. I had tea at Fletcher's
and he put me up at the club, where I got some bully
tennis later. Strolled back from the club along the top
of the old wall with Deering, whence we saw a gorgeous
sunset behind the Western Hills. The Summer Palace,
set over in these hills, is considered one of the most inter
esting sights in northern China, but it is impossible to see
it now as the court is there. I dined and had a most.
pleasant evening with Mr. Jamison. He has travelled a
great deal in Manchuria, Mongolia, and north China, and
has made me free at his excellent library during the
course of my stay. Beautiful moonlight night.
Peking, September 18. In response to a note from
him, I was pleased to call on Dr. Morrison, the author
of An Australian in China and many other works on
China. He represents the British government here un
officially, and the Times, officially, and is said to have
more weight and influence than any other foreigner in
China. This is probably largely due to his wonderful
knowledge of the Chinamen, and things Chinese. He has
5 He died of cholera in November.

46 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY _^____
a Chinese name, and is known and respected throughout
the length and breadth of the land. If you get into a
rickshaw here at any time of the night or day, without
telling the boy where to take you, he will go straight to
Dr. Morrison's house, because he thinks that of course
every foreigner must want to see and talk with Dr. Mor
rison. He is one of the heroes of the siege of the lega
tions in 1900, and with Sir Robert Hart (the head of the
imperial Chinese customs) is the only man to hold the
distinction of the Peacock Feather. He got his doctor's
degree through the work he did while flat on his back in
a hospital at Edinburg recovering from fever, and is a
man of remarkable natural ability and insight. He has
had a vicissitudinal career, and owns the most compre
hensive and valuable collection of books on China,
Chinese literature, and writings, diary and notes on cur
rent events of the last thirty years, newspaper and maga
zine clippings, etc. in China. He is also quite a sports
man and showed me his guns and Chinese potteries and
porcelains. I stayed during the morning for a very sug
gestive and valuable talk, and had tiffin with him and
young Robertson, a friend of Bland's, who presently
dropped in. After tiffin he got out his diaries and dis
cussed several inland trips with me. He has been all
over China from Tonkin to the Desert of Gobi, and from
Wei-hai-wei to Yunnan-fu. Later in the afternoon, I
rambled around to some curio shops with a French col
lector, and watched him judging and buying porcelains.
At the hotel I found a telegram from Gil dated Shang
hai, and saying ' ' Wire plans. ' ' This was rather a stag
gerer, as we had agreed to meet in Peking, and I thought
if not here, he must be still in Japan, but I wired ' ' Come
up. Several bully trips. Southern China too hot now,"
and awaited developments. Met another very interest
ing man this afternoon, McCormick, a well known Ameri
can newspaper man. He is a quiet gentlemanly fellow
and requires a good deal of drawing out, but is a perfect

Doctor Morrison

PEKING 49

gold mine for nuggets, having been here for the China-
Japanese war, the Boxer rebellion, and the Russo-Japan
ese war. I went up to the legation with him, and had a
chat with Mr. Rockhill, Haskins, and Deering. Went to
the club about five, where I met a lot more people, and
had some fine tennis. Dined with Robertson, and later
Harvey and his friend Brown joined us and we had a
pleasant evening. Brown is in the Imperial University
here lecturing on history, and Judge Harvey represents
the British bench in north China. Both men know China
intimately, and have been in official capacities. Harvey
was British consul at New Chwang some years ago. He
and I found many mutual friends in Japan. Received an
urgent wire tonight from Straight to come up for his
hunt. Peking, September 19 to 22. Four beautiful days
spent in riding, tennis, a bit of polo, dinners, calls, talks,
visits to the temples and bazaars, and an interesting trip
to Tientsin for a glimpse of modern China, the intervals
and odd moments spent reading in Mr. Jamison's lib
rary. I have met practically everyone of the small for
eign community, and as I knew the right people to start
with, they have made me one of the family. The other
day I was initiated into the "Angry Mob " a congenial
crowd of the officers of the various legation guards, dip
lomats, and nondescripts, who try to make the time pass
pleasantly. ' ' The Bad Man ' ' is president, and Lieuten
ant Vogel, from Washington, vice president. Saturday
had a wild ride with Captain Gulick and Lieutenant
Vogel, which was gotten up on the spur of the moment.
He wanted someone to exercise a bad pony who had killed
his mafoo the day before, and I was keen for it. We
went out to the Polo Club, from there to the Race Club,
where we had tiffin, and so back, about twenty -five miles.
Gulick and I each got a fall from our ponies, and I got a
bad kick out of my brute. I spent Sunday with Deering

50 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol-
at the beautiful Jade Spring Temple in the Western Hills
back of the summer palace. We spent a most delightful
day there, in its dreamy forgotten courtyards, and I took
a plunge in the cold green-rock pool. We had brought
our tiffin with us. From the top of the tower in one of
the hills in the garden, we got a wonderful view across
the plain to Peking. The water in the terraced paddy
fields was glistening in the sun, and a long string of cam
els was winding through the millet fields up towards
Kalgan and Mongolia. Gil not here yet,
Peking, September 22 to 26. Four more pleasant days.
Gil finally arrived Tuesday evening, the twenty-fourth,
having been detained owing to lack of money, which
made him wait in Tientsin over Sunday and Monday,
which was a bank holiday. In the meantime I had heard
from Straight that his trip had been put off so long now
that he would have to give it up, at least until some time
in the middle of October, as he expected a visit of inspec
tion from Mr. Rockhill about the fifteenth of October, and
would be pretty busy. He also wired that Marvin and
his friend Dick were coming down to Peking to see me
about another scheme. I therefore played around with
Gil, took him to see Rockhill, Jamison, and some of the
others, and we discussed plans and gleaned more infor
mation about China. Got hold of a fine boy called Lu,
through Mr. Rockhill, and began to think seriously of go
ing inland to Ti-yuan-fu, one of the old capitals.

A DIP INTO MONGOLIA
From Daily Diary
Peking, September 27. Dick and Marvin arrived yester
day. Dreams of possible trips into Mongolia, Manchuria,
or up the Yellow River and over to Ti-yuan-fu had been
floating through our brains for several days past, but it
was only last night that we finally decided to go to Nan-

two] A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 51
kow-see the Great Wall and the Ming tombs -push on to
Kalgan, a frontier Mongolian town, and perhaps, who
knows, beyond. We had been spending the evening with
Mr. Jamison and Captain Fallows (of the British Indian
Army) and the talk and reminiscence had ranged over
most of the habitable and uninhabitable globe. When
about midnight we finally tore ourselves away and paused
for a moment in the cool starlight outside the stone wall of
his Chinese house, it was with the resolve that tomorrow
should see us on the trail again. Just why we decided
upon Mongolia I don't quite know, unless it was that
we were hoping to go to Manchuria later with Straight,
after tiger, and that the Yellow River was in a more
southern, and consequently hotter, country. At any rate
we seemed to agree that Mongolia was the thing. We
accordingly divided forces, and went to work at once.
Dick went over to see M. Casanave, with whom he was
staying, to get additional information as regards the
route, and particularly as to the whereabouts of a cer
tain Trappist Monastery, which he was supposed to have
visited, and where they made a wonderful liqueur. Gil
sped across the bridge over the old canal, and hunted up
our boy Lu at the hotel. Lu was a red button man, a
minor official of some sort, and had been kindly secured
for us by Mr. Rockhill. He was a tall, strong, genial old
man, capable, and quite energetic for a Celestial. He
readily undertook the task of procuring two Peking carts
and carters, four donkeys, and three mafoos [pony or
donkey boys], and a coolie, and promised to have them
started by dawn the next day for Nankow. This was
about sixty miles and would take them two days, so
that we could spend another day in Peking, going prac
tically there by rail in a morning, and spend the after
noon seeing the Ming tombs. By this arrangement we
would all be ready to start together over the pass the fol
lowing morning.
My task was to seek out that most wonderful personage

52 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol-
in all Peking, Mr. Jamison's fat and famous cook, in his
lair amidst the pots and pans and confer with him in re
gard to our commissariat department. I found him
wreathed in smiles and festooned with strings of vermi
celli. I couched my request in my very best pidgin
English and was replied to promptly and affirmatively
in the vernacular ' ' AUight, master, can do, can do, that
belong my Pidgin." It seemed that he had a brother-in
law, a fellow artist right there on the spot, eating vermi
celli with him, who would be glad and proud to officiate
for us, and who would feed us in such style that we would
come home as fat -or nearly as fat -as he himself. And
thereby hangs a tale. You can not -and more especially
if you are a bachelor- run a house in China as you would
at home. You must never do the ordering yourself, nor
must you pay the bills. In the first place your " number
one boy ' ' would not tolerate it for an instant, and in the
second place you would be most unmercifully fleeced if
you did so. No, you allow your " number one boy " so
much a month to run the house, and the amount of this
stipend is gauged, not so much by your requirements, as
by the capability of your ' ' number one boy ' ' and the ex
tent of his affection for you. He gets things about a
third cheaper than you can, but of course makes his regu
lar ten per cent ' ' squeeze ' ' without which no Chinese
bargain is ever complete, and which all the knowing resi
dents take into account. In addition to this, he expects
to feed not only himself and family, but all his poor re
lations and friends out of a job. You do not suffer by
this, and there are always plenty of extra men about
the place, should you require them. In the same way
your " number one boy " expects to be looked after by
his friends, and should you ever be foolish enough to
dispense with his services. And so it happened that Lee,
our prospective cook, had been dependent upon the bounty
of Mr. Jamison's fat boy for some time past, and was
fretting for the flesh pots of remunerative service once

two] A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 53
more. This important point being satisfactorily settled,
we took up the matter of supplies, and the three of us
(Lee, the fat boy, and I) made out a list of groceries :
tea, coffee, salt, pepper, sugar, flour, baking powder,
biscuits, bacon, tinned soup, etc.; eggs, chicken, mutton,
rice, vegetables, and fruit being obtainable en route.
This provender the doughty Lu bought for us today, and
we will take it along with us on the train tomorrow.
The committee on ways and means - consisting of Gil,
Dick, Lu, and I -met several times today and further in
vested in a case of Hirano water (a Japanese sparkling
mineral water of excellent medical properties when suf
ficiently diluted with acqua vitae) and a dozen of beer.
We lunched today with Captain Reeves, our military at
tache, and Mr. McCormick, who told us the episodes which
he had gleaned from various sources, and which together
made up what we called ' ' the dramatic career of Bat,
the slayer of Crazy Horse -war chief of the Sioux In
dians. ' ' It seems that for this daring deed, which he ac
complished single-handed, he was pensioned by the gov
ernment, and spent the next seven years or so knocking
about army posts, partaking of the cup that clears today
of past regrets and future fears, and dropping down the
ladder, rung by rung. He next figured in a fiasco in
Alaska, where he had gone shortly after the first rush
to the Klondike, and where he kept a gambling hell and
led rather a lurid life generally. I, myself, was able to
supply the next link in the chain, for while I was at the
consulate at Mukden, an Italian, the owner of a roulette
wheel, came in to ask Straight to swear ' ' Bat ' ' over to
keep the peace, as he said the latter had vowed to shoot
him on sight. How he had ever drifted to that forsaken
hole passeth human understanding, but there he ap
peared ; and now he was down in Tientsin and would be up
before our minister, Mr. Rockhill, in a few days, on the
charge of knifing somebody or other. He will probably
be sent home for retrial, and can hardly expect less than

54 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
six years, a truly shameful ending for a man who made
so brilliant a name for himself in youth.
In the afternoon we attended Sir Robert Hart's gar
den party, and I had the pleasure of again speaking to
this, the most distinguished foreigner in China. He
starts in a few months to go home on leave, and it will
undoubtedly mean the end of his great work and career
as the builder up of the imperial Chinese customs, for
the primate, with more regard for China than courtesy
and appreciation of his services, has already appointed
someone to succeed him. After this, and some fast ten
nis to keep in trim, Dick, Marvin, Gil, and I had a very
pleasant party at the club, and made glad the ears of Pe
king society by the harmonious music of the sweet sing
ers from over the sea, Wasting in Despair, The Rosy Gob
let, Grenada, and Katie Malone, were our chef d'oeuvres,
while we in turn learned a beautiful ditty entitled, We
Pushed Him Through the Window, from that tuneful local
organization ' ' The Angry Mob. ' ' On returning to dress
for dinner, we serenaded our way down Legation Street
until they turned out the guard at the Japanese gate.
These Japs, I'm afraid, have still much to learn! We
dined with Mr. Jamison tonight, as he seemed anxious
to see the last of us (an ambiguous way of expressing it
I thought) got a few final tips and sage advice, and then,
at Lu's invitation, went out to a Chinese theatre.
The Chinese drama today is at about the same stage as
the Elizabethan drama of Shakespeare 's day. Practically
no scenery is used- or, if any, more of a suggestive than a
realistic nature. Chairs, for instance, represent a moun
tain or a high place, and a table is the second story room
or balcony. There is no curtain and dead men simply get
up and walk off the stage. The green-room is merely a
curtain hung around a part of the back of the stage, the
rest of the back being railed off for the orchestra, which
plays appropriate music in relays all during the perfor
mance, as well as the intermissions. The boxes are all

two] A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 55
in the galleries, and people stand up in the body of the
house, as they used to in the English pits : while the 'oi
polloi occupy a few planks on trestles around the edges.
Boys with unbroken voices take all the female parts, and
the costumes are not necessarily chronologically correct.
The stage business is of a fixed conventional order, every
motion standing for something definite, which is perfect
ly understood by the audience. For instance, when the
villain extends his forearm, moves his wrist, and says
solemnly " Crick, crack," everyone knows he's unlocking
a door. It is quite comme-il-faut for the socially elite
and the young bloods to sit up on the edges of the stage,
chaff with the audience, and comment upon the players.
The play we saw had a good deal of bloodshed, a good
deal of graceful and energetic sword-dancing and whirling
of blades, and a good deal of chasing one another around
the stage in through the green-room and over mountains
and house tops, to the huge delight of a noisily enthusias
tic audience. The Chinese are just as fond of horse-play
and slap-stick work, as our own music-hallers. There
was also a noticeable profusion of loud talking, gesticu
lating, and bitter stage laughter, quite alien to the usual
quiet dignity of the Celestials. Chinese theatres are nei
ther so comfortable, cool, nor sweet smelling as the Japan
ese, and we only stayed about an hour, after which we re
paired to a fashionable restaurant in the Tartar City
whither Lu had already sent instructions.
We were shown through several flower-potted court
yards to a private dining room with a trellised doorway,
handsomely painted screens, and papered windows, next
to one occupied by a merry party of mandarins. We had
brought our ' ' hubble-bubbles ' ' with us, and the first
thing we did was to lie back on a broad divan, and try
some highly scented Chinese tobacco, while the table and
chairs of the peculiarly designed red-wood, which the
Chinese love, were being brought in. In dinner service,
as in nearly everything else, the Chinese do the opposite

56 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol-
of what we do -though who can say whose is the better
method. We are such creatures of habit, however, that
their customs seem strange and absurd enough on first
acquaintance. First about twenty dishes were put on the
table, containing desserts, sweets, candies, perfumed nuts,
candied fruits and flower petals, and fruit paste. We
helped ourselves indiscriminately, not using any indivi
dual plates. This, together with a thick sweet wine-
something like Tokay -formed our first course. While
these dishes were being removed, a basin of hot water,
with a small towel in it, was passed around, and we each
laid the steaming cloth over our faces for a moment (as
a barber does after shaving you) to wipe off the grease
and sugar and refresh ourselves. Next we were brought
individual plates with chop sticks and china spoons.
About half a dozen bowls were placed upon the table con
taining small pieces of fried pork (of which the Chinese
are very fond) , fish, and a sort of highly seasoned mixture
of chicken and rice. Next came a great delicacy, sharks-
fins and crabs, which are steamed to a gelatinous mass,
and which might be almost anything. Then a dish of
worms, dried and seasoned, and tasting like white bait.
After this we had first a Russian cigarette, and last of
all, as a crowning triumph, the celebrated bird's nest
soup, and a very heady cordial called samshu, made from
the distilled seeds of the lotus blossom. The Chinese are
very fond of using peanut oil, citrons, lotus petals, al
monds, soy, ginger, and sesame in their sauces and con
diments, which give even the simplest dishes a subtle
foreign flavor. Of course this was a special affair. The
ordinary Chinese dinner consists of much more rice and
less meat. We walked home in the starlight, and fell
asleep to dream strange dreams and see startling visions,
but whether due to our hopes for the future, or our ban
quet, I don't pretend to know.
Nankow, September 28. We slept so hard last night

two] A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 57
that it was only because we are heroes and mighty men,
little less than Vikings, that we crowded some breakfast
down (in the English stand-up sideboard fashion) and
caught our train at eight o'clock this morning at the
water-gate. There is a railway station here now where
the Japanese blew up the wall and forced an entrance in
1900. This railroad from Nankow has been finished less
than a year, and it enables the tourist -if he cares to do
nothing more -to leave Peking, see the Ming tombs and
the Great Wall, and be back the next night. Before, it
was a five or six days' expedition with carts and donkeys.
Lu is making himself very popular with the three lead
ers of this expedition, as at nearly every station he would
reach a long arm up into our carriage with some grapes,
persimmons, or nuts. The ride was out across the flat
level plain in which Peking lies, leaving the summer pal
ace and the Western Hills to our left, and traveling north
west to where a considerable range of bare rocky jagged
mountains barred further progress. Right at their foot,
and at the mouth of the famous Nankow Pass, lies the
straggling walled mud village of that name. Eleven
o'clock detrained us at the station, and a walk of a little
over a mile brought us to our inn, where the proud char
coal inscription on the doorpost " Nankow Hotel -Mas
ter's name, Lu Su Chung" seemed to augur that said
master was not afraid of comparison. Wishing, however,
to get back before dark, if possible, we merely deposited
our luggage in the courtyard, drank one cup of tea, and
were off upon the steeds furnished us by the wily Lu Su.
The hurry of starting had made us somewhat oblivious
to all else, and it was not until we were fairly out of the
village and jogging along a narrow path between the
fields of tall bearded millet that we realized how shabbily
the conveyance committee of the expedition (consisting of
Dick, Gil, Lu, and I) had been treated. Our cavalcade
presented an ill-assorted collection of mounts. For a
long time -in fact until he rolled up his coat, which had

58 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
been hanging down behind -I thought Lu was walking.
His feet were certainly touching the ground, though he
seemed to be proceeding very quietly, and I couldn't see
his donkey at all. Dick sat upon a beast which looked
more like a striped hyena than anything else -such a
cowardly, mean, slinking, hope-I-may-die expression!
Gil bestrode a foaming coal black charger -at least that
is the way Lu Su would probably have described it, could
he have talked English -but it was a sorry nag, and so
interested in catching all the witty nothings which our
troop gave birth to, that it was constantly stumbling in a
vain attempt to repress its chuckles. My own donkey
looked the part, but was of a nasty ungovernable temper.
It would not be steered nohow, neither by bridle, club,
volleys of stones from the others, or by getting off and
pushing. At last I hit upon a scheme, and, leaning for
ward, bit deeply into its right ear as it swung around
toward me. The effect was startlingly electrical and, in
the interests of science, gratifying, but afterwards I let
him follow the others.
We wound along the edge of the great sea-board plain,
keeping almost in the shadow of the mountains still to
our left. Like the rest of China from here south, this
plain is one mass of cultivation, rice, millet, and corn,
and we were constantly passing through fruit orchards
in the outskirts of the villages. It was a lovely day, and
the color scheme and contrasts of the intense blue sky,
brown mountains -purple in the distance -golden corn,
pale green rice, dark green trees with black patches of
shade, straw-thatched house, white mud walls gleaming
in the sunlight, red-tiled temples, and the prevailing dull
blue tint of the clothes worn by the tillers of the soil was
very pleasing. We gradually ascended all morning, till
we came to the crest of the valley in which the Ming
Tombs lie. It is a side valley coming out of the moun
tains, and merging eventually into the plains. It is per
haps five miles long and two broad. The farther end is

A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 61
so narrow that it appears to be closed abruptly by the
mountains, which rise sheer and wooded from its floor.
It is in the shade of the outlying groves of these trees
at the back, that the golden roofed tombs lie - embowered
in green. They are facing east to catch the glory of the
sunrise and the good luck which always rolls into the
broad end of a valley (like water down a funnel), while
the bad luck comes sneaking in at the small end. This
securing of good luck is more even than a science in
China ; it is a religion, and has become a natural part of
their daily life. Where it started, no one knows, but it
has spread from China into Korea, Mongolia, and Man
churia. The Chinese call it Fung Shui, and its most im
portant aspect is the selection of a suitable spot for the
tombs of their ancestors. If we feel somewhat inclined
to laugh at the Confucian (and I might with almost equal
truth say Chinaman) for not allowing even the shadow of
a telegraph wire to fall upon the grave of his dead, we
must remember that it has been by honoring their fathers
and their mothers that they have been enabled to dwell
longer in the land given to them than any other people
under the sun. The Mongol, the Tartar, and the Japan
ese, may conquer the land, they may bully and rant and
rule, but after a time they disappear, and only the China
man remains ; bland, industrious, and in possession. It
is in places like this - silent and half-forgotten, but which
are eloquent of the storied past -that we best appreciate
the dignity of a very old country. China may be squalid,
old-fashioned, and poor; her people dirty, stupid, and not
up-to-date in war, modern learning, science, and inven
tions, but what does it matter? Their ancestors were cul
tured gentlemen when ours were roaming naked through
the primeval forests, sleeping in caves, and pecking at
troublesome dinosaurs with stone hatchets. We are
creatures of the moment. We work feverishly and
ephemerally. We grasp at many things, and think that
the world and the fullness thereof is ours, and ours alone.

62  EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol-
The Celestial has a broad and tolerant smile for what he
regards as our caprices and tantrums. He knows that
after our fitful restless life is over, that after we are tired
of bothering him about opium and pirates and telegraphs,
that his calm country will still be there as before, going
steadily up along the scale of progress, not so fast per
haps as we, but more surely.
While these thoughts were passing through my mind,
we had been winding down through shady groves of plum
and persimmon out across millet fields and grape vine
yards, till we struck a broad stone-flagged avenue which
led up to the tombs. Several dongas, or dry water
courses, were spanned by carved marble bridges, and
though sadly neglected and down at heel, the approach,
even today, is dignified and imposing. These are later
generations of the same dynasty whose tombs I visited at
historic old Mukden, the northern capital, and it was they
who drove out the great Mongol dynasty of Genghis and
Kublai Khan and Timur. They in turn succumbed to
the all-conquering Manchus about the middle of the seven
teenth century. The most glorious period of China's his
tory was during the reign of the great Chou dynasty,
from about 1100 to 650 b.c There can be little doubt but
that the more savage conditions of the country at that
time produced an abler race of men. China was then,
except in Honan, and along the Yellow River, overrun by
luxuriant vegetation. There were no roads nor bridges
worth mentioning, wild beasts abounded, the land was
but slightly cultivated, and the struggle for existence de
manded energy and vigor. This, combined with the ex
istence of numerous bands of pirates and brigands, a
competition in arms and diplomacy between the petty
states, the consequent rise of military discipline, materi
al civilization and education, caused the Chinese of that
period to reach a very high level of ability, material prog
ress, and skill in craftsmanship. It was so under similar
circumstances in Asia Minor, ancient Greece, and Italy,

two] A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 63
and it is so in modern Europe. Against Plato, Socrates,
and Aristotle, place Lao-tsze, Confucius and Mencius-
whilst China had at that time statesmen, orators, and
poets not inferior to those of European antiquity. The
Great Wall of China -one of the world's grandest mon
uments to the military genius of one man - as well as most
of the military roads which are still used today after two
thousand years have passed over them, were built about
this time by the Emperor Shih-Huang-ti, so that it seems
the Mongols were troublesome, even in those days. The
very first Europeans to know anything about China were
the Nestorians. The date of their arrival cannot be cer
tainly specified, but it was early in the sixth century.
The famous Nestorian monument is the only record which
they have left behind them of the work they did in China.
A thousand questions present themselves to one's mind
as to the work done by these men, the extent of country
they traveled over, the numbers that came to China, their
modus operandi, and the success that attended their
labors; but the very memory of them vanished out of
China until the rediscovery of the monument in 1625.
From its inscription it has been learned that a priest
named Olopun made his way, through difficulties and per
ils, from the west to China, bringing with him the True
Scriptures. He was favorably received in the palace,
where a portion of the Scriptures was translated, and
with that eclecticism for which the Chinese are noted, the
emperor approved the new religion, and proclaimed that
it should have a free course through the empire. A mon
astery was built ' ' sufficient to accommodate twenty-one
priests; " succeeding sovereigns vied with each other in
the benefits they conferred on the new religion, which,
with the aegis of imperial patronage thrown over it,
spread throughout the Ten Provinces of China until its
"monasteries filled a hundred cities." Then came an
age of persecution, followed by the growth of the Taoists,
who succeeded in setting the emperor against Buddhism

64  EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol-
and Nestorianism alike. The next foreigner, of whom
anything certain is known, was Marco Polo, who made his
wonderful voyage in the thirteenth century. Since the
last of the sixteenth century, when the Roman Catholics
and Jesuits under Ricci established themselves, China
has been more or less known to Europe -but here we are
at the tombs!
The whole garden or park enclosing the tombs is per
haps a quarter of a mile deep, and is itself enclosed by a
mud wall with a heavy yellow tiled gable, over the top of
which we could see the tent-like roofs of the inner build
ings. These peculiar canvas-like lines are the keynote
of Chinese architecture, which is supposed to have bor
rowed the suggestion from the droop of a marquee, or
large state-tent. While waiting for the key of the main
gate to be produced we sought refuge in a shady grove,
and played havoc with the ample tiffin of bread and but
ter, cold fowl, cheese, and beer, which the hotel had put
up for us. Afterwards we smoked a contemplative pipe,
studying some lovely blue porcelain dragons on a yellow
tiled background over the gate and some marble mausole
um guardians who sprawled in the grass and leaves be
side it. Finally we beheld Methuselah approaching, stag
gering under the weight of a huge iron key, and after
some little struggle with it and rusty bolts, he swung open
the door, and we rode into the first courtyard. This was
of considerable extent, and well grown up with grass and
trees, mostly live oaks and firs. In the center was a sort
of pavilion made of dark heavy rain-soaked timbers, much
of the carving on which had rotted away. The four cor
ners of this enclosure were crowned with towers, and in
the angles near the towers were buried four nobles of the
court of Yung Lo, who was the first Ming to establish him
self at Peking, and who built these tombs. He was the
third of his dynasty to rule China. The grave of each of
these distinguished gentlemen is surmounted by a great
stone tortoise, upon whose back is an upright slab of mar-

two] A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 65
ble called a stele shaped like a domino, and on top of which
again crouches a beautiful carved marble dragon. The
dragon guards the bones of the dead man from violation
and evil spirits. His name, family crest, and a laudatory
inscription are graven upon the stele, and the tortoise -
which lives forever -is supposed to keep alive his soul.
A gate in the farther wall brought us into a second court
yard directly in front of the main building. This is on
a raised platform approached by several stepped ter
races. Each terrace is surrounded by a grotesquely
carved marble balustrade, but the flights of steps them
selves, though common enough in China, are so unique
that I must give them just a word. The central portion -
fully half the entire width -is built on an even slant like
a horse-ramp, only the two narrow outside sections hav
ing steps. The central slope is elaborately carved in a
wedge shaped pattern, like a renaissance fireplace. The
main building is plain and dignified with a front of lofty
teak-wood pillars sent to Peking as tribute from Yun-nan
and Burmah. Here offerings are still presented to the
long deceased monarch of a fallen dynasty by bis succes
sors of an alien race. Behind this is the tomb proper,
which we reached by crossing an open space flanked by a
pretty little yellow porcelain shrine and passing up
through an inclined tunnel cut out of the solid base of a
stone tower. This separates into two flights of steps at
the top, leading out upon an open platform, which is the
proper entrance to the grave at last. Under the mag
nificent crowning arch of this tower is the grave stone,
covered with its tortoise and dragon, and the red marble
stele inscribed with the posthumous title of Yung Lo, the
greatest of the Ming emperors, Cheng Tsu Wen Huang
Ti which translated means " The complete ancestor and
literary emperor."
Now, as a matter of fact, we had joined the avenue of
approach midway on its course between the first great
triple gateway, or Pdi-lo, and the tomb -as it was on the

66 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
most direct line from Nankow. We therefore left the
tomb of Mr. Ming after Dick had considerately inquired
from Methuselah, the gatekeeper, about the health of Mrs.
Ming and the girls, remounted and rode back along the
road till we came to the Avenue of Demi-gods and Beasts.
It is a very incongruous sight to see these formidable mon
oliths glowering at you over the tops of the cornstalks,
which have approached to their very feet. Luckily there
were no sign posts, and no advertisements of patent med
icines had as yet been painted on their backs. In fact,
the peace and quiet, both here and at the tombs, was one
of the most pleasing features ; we had seen no one except
peasants in the fields, a few villagers worshipping at the
tombs, and Methuselah, the man of the key. It is in such
peaceful happy places as these that one likes to think of
the mighty dead slumbering in not unf orgotten splendor.
The avenue of statues was perhaps a mile long, being
flanked every three hundred yards or so by a pair of co
lossal figures: mandarins, civil and military, in appro
priate dress, elephants, griffins, lions, unicorns, camels,
and horses, each carved out of a single piece of marble.
Altogether it is about three miles from the Pdi-lo to the
great gate of the first tomb -which is the radius of the
arc in which all the thirteen tombs are ranged.
We rode back to Nankow over a new and longer path
than that by which we had come, but one equally inter
esting. The village scenes were what particularly in
terested me -women washing clothes at a stream, or
drawing water from a century-old stone well; threshing
floors as smooth and hard as that of Arauna, the Jebuzite,
which King David bought upon which to build a temple to
the Lord; reapers binding grain; children gurgling in the
sunshine, or coolies returning heavy-laden from the or
chards. They seemed a simple, harmless, happy people,
affable and willing to pass the time of day with the
strangely-clad foreigners who jogged past. The sun had
set in glory behind the hills to our right before we got

Starting for Mongolia

A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 69
back to Nankow, and it was cold enough for us to wish
they would put a fire in the great hang, or raised brick
bed running half the length of our room. But Lee, the
cook? had bestirred himself while we were absent, and a
hot and hearty dinner was our reward after a long and
interesting day. A stroll out under the stars, and a chat
with Lu and a local tobacco dealer, has made me ready for
bed, after recording the following -born this afternoon:
THE MING TOMBS
Once the Mings,
Gallant Kings,
Ruled this land in days departed ;
Till the Manchus, iron-hearted,
Cast them from their thrones of ease.
Here they sleep in marble splendor.
Pilgrims render
Reverent worship, on their knees.
Soft a breeze
Through the trees
Of the grass-grown courtyards stealing,
Tells the day when trumpets pealing
Shall proclaim another Ming.
Armed hosts from distant regions,
Countless legions,
Rallying round their rightful King.
There has been a rumor current in China for generations
that a branch of the old Ming dynasty is still in exis
tence- somewhere, in secret -and will one day drive out
the Manchus and regain their ancestral throne.
Why-li-chien, September 29. We were up betimes in
the morning and I continued the vigorous Swedish treat
ment begun at Mukden -Gil throwing buckets of icy
water over me in the misty courtyard. It is most invig
orating, and sets one's pugging tooth on edge for a hot
breakfast of porridge, bacon, coffee, and eggs. Six, forty-

70 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
five found the three of us footing it gaily up the track in
the cool bracing air, Lu close behind, and the donkeys and
mafoos trailing after. We left the cook to pack up his
gear and follow more leisurely with the carts. I imagine,
however, that Lee the Magnificent, has persuaded the
coolie to be chief bottle-washer, as he seems altogether too
much of a dandy to demean himself by that sort of thing.
Cooking is an honored profession in gourmandizing
China, and Lee is no mean ornament to it, as last night's
banquet eloquently attested. He is a resplendent figure
in a long purple gabardine, or surtout, and flowered yel
low things which he evidently regards as in the nature of
a Prince Albert, but which look suspiciously like pajamas.
At any rate, he is a credit to our caravan, and we are
proud to number him among our legionaries.
The path wound up the ever-narrowing valley, follow
ing the course of the brawling stream below, and past
scattered homesteads where chickens and goats eked out
a thin hillside existence. Presently we came to a medie
val walled town - fortified with towers and battlements -
Chu-yung-kuan. The fine gate, which still stood at some
what doubtful defiance, dates from the fourteenth cen
tury, and is said once to have been surmounted by a high
pagoda built to propitiate the genii of the pass, and has
on its sides elaborately carved bas-reliefs and a Buddhist
inscription in several languages : Sanscrit, Tibetan, Chin
ese, Mongol, Niuchih, etc. We had scarcely time to no
tice all this, however, as at the psychological moment a
vast flock of sheep came pouring out of the dark, grim
portal like a river bursting through its dam. We were
submerged in the living stream, for the sheep, frightened
and crowded from behind, couldn't open up a way for us
through their serried ranks. I got into the lee of the
gatepost until the storm was past, but Dick, with admir
able sang-froid, sprang into an eddy and secured a snap
shot, to the horror of the shepherds, who seemed to think
that the sheep would all die of the rinderpest -or some-

A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 73
thing. About thirty li (ten miles if you must have Eng
lish- we are becoming quite Pekinese, you see) from Nan
kow, we passed two little temples set in the rocky hillside,
which were built in the days of the Mings. A little fur
ther on, almost overhanging a noisy waterfall, we found
another and more pretentious temple, and from here we
got our first glimpse of the wall -a crenelated bit slinking
along the sky line of a distant peak. From here the val
ley grew narrower, steeper, and more like a gorge. Pres
ently we began to meet parties coming down, who had
started at dawn from the first town beyond the wall. A
few small camel caravans (though they mostly travel at
night, when there is more room for them on the road)
shuffling through the dust on great padded feet. Some
one has called the camel ' ' Velvet footed, ' ' but somehow
I can't associate the adjective with the great hulking
sneering brutes. More numerous were strings of heavy-
laden donkeys, jolting Peking carts, herds of goats, shag
gy Mongol ponies destined for the polo fields of Tientsin
and Shang-hai, coolies, farmers, and horse-litters, out of
which painted Manchu ladies glanced half boldly, half shy
ly, just as the Elizabethan coquettes used.
Half past ten brought us to where the Great Wall of
China crossed our road at the top of the pass. So much
has been written of its rugged strength, and the snake-like
sinuosity with which it climbs the mountains here and
glides down into the sea at Shan-hai-kuan, that I shall
only say that it still does it. This, of course, is not the
old wall of Shih-huang-ti, but a short, modern arc of
some three hundred miles, larger and higher than the
original, and flung on here about 1550 a.d. to further
strengthen this, the weakest point. While waiting for
the carts to come up with tiffin, we scrambled about the
fortifications and climbed along the top of the wall-
which, on steep slopes rose like a flight of stone steps, to
higher watchtowers on peaks commanding the pass -to
get snapshots. Behind us were the tangled hills and val-

74 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
leys through which we had wound during the morning,
with the seaboard plain in the dim distance. Ahead of
us lay a short valley, emptying out onto a broad plain,
with another higher and more purple range of ragged
hills rearing up behind. To right and left were moun
tains, with towers and sections of wall dodging about
here and there along their crests. The wall, in spots,
shows the effects of battering rams or bombardments, and
in fact there are one or two green mouldy cannons, lying
half buried in debris near the gate. In the immediate
foreground we could see the mouth of the tunnel which
the North China Railway is driving under the pass, ex
pecting some day to reach Kalgan. We couldn't hear the
sound of the drilling, but it looked as busy as an ant hill.
Later we went down and found the work being done in a
very orderly and thorough manner, entirely under the
supervision of Chinese engineers. To be sure the work
had been outlined and planned by an Englishman, but this
augurs well for new China. By the time we got back,
tiffin was spread in the shade of the gateway tower and
garnished with cold beer.
Our sixty odd li in the afternoon took us out onto the
broad plain we had seen from the watchtower, and half
way across it to this walled city. The country, though
far less thickly populated than on the other side of the
Nankow Range, was much less barren and deserted than
we had imagined. The land was pretty well cultivated,
and the people were in the midst of their fall plowing.
A noticeable feature was the fact that there were prac
tically no isolated farms or houses here - all were collected
into walled villages. It is not so very long ago, I imag
ine, that this country was infested with brigands and rov
ing bands of robbers which made this necessary. In the
later afternoon we passed beneath a low rugged hillock
crowned with a vast rambling monastery, now fallen into
picturesque decay. From the foot of this hillock, and
right beside our path, sprang a warm bubbling spring,

Where the Nankow Pahs pierces the
Great Wall of China

A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 77
which was sulphurous to the taste. Why-li-chien is a fine
large fortified city, apparently prosperous and flourish
ing, with broad clean streets and a high wall, still well
preserved and formidable. We went down the main
street for nearly a third of a mile, to the inn which Lu
had picked out for us. We were struck by the number of
out-of-door restaurants, which were full now, as five
o'clock is the hour of the peasants' second and last daily
meal, and by the profusion of singing birds (sparrows
and thrushes and meadow larks) hanging in cages at
nearly every door.
Our caravansary is a large one, and its great court was
now occupied by half a hundred camels, kneeling amidst
their loads, and condescending to discuss their fodder in
a casual indifferent sort of way. The public kitchen at
the entrance of the court is an interesting place to loaf
in, with its great caldron of suspicious looking soup,
bowls of yellowish sticky matter, greasy pork, rice, and
tea. Pancakes were being fried on iron griddles, and
we sampled some, spiced and wrapped around meat
hashes, like jelly rolls. The bedrooms opened onto the
main court, and our suite -one large, and two small
paper- windowed rooms -had a private kitchen in which
Lee instantly ensconced himself. Leaving him to his
labors, which are usually introduced by a raucous volley
of expletives of a rich, suggestive sound, indicative of his
desire for wood and water, Dick and I set out for a stroll.
We turned down a side street, and went up a precarious
flight of stone steps to the top of the wall. We followed
this along, looking down upon domestic scenes in the
courtyards below, till the tower of a gateway apparently
defied further progress. Former scrambles among the
Alps, however, had not been quite in vain, and crannies,
and an odd ledge or two, soon helped us up, to the open-
mouthed disappointment of a considerable concourse
which had collected below. We gathered from their looks
that there had been some heavy betting against us. May

78 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
this be a lesson to the Chinese to curb their inveterate
appetite for gambling ! Later, as I was trying to snap a
picturesque view through the gate, which appealed to me,
we made the acquaintance of a delightful old party in a
sheep-skin tunic -the gatekeeper, I suppose. Every time
I got the kodak focused and was looking through the find
er, preparatory to snapping the shutter, he would dart
into the foreground and peer into the lens. Wanted to
see the little birdie come out, you know. He gurgled with
delight when we led him back behind the gate, but sprang
out like a Jack-in-the-box the moment I had things fixed
again. At last in despair I took it with his yellow pock
marked face just bobbing into view, and then we hurried
back to our caravansary to dine. Lee did us very well
indeed, tonight, having gotten some fresh fish -caught, I
suppose, in the river which meanders through the valley
close to the city walls -peas, potatoes, apples, and grapes.
Quite cold tonight, and very conducive to sleep.
Ching-ming-ee, September 30. Away at seven, after
my usual cold bucket douche and a hearty breakfast. We
walked all the way today, the tonic air fairly lifting us
along, like wine ; that sounds funny, but the comparison is
obvious. It is another perfect, cloudless day, and the
lights in the early morning are only less rich than during
the Alpine-like afterglow. Although we are not over the
border, this country is more like Mongolia, I imagine,
than China, since the Mongols have ruled and lived in it
until the formation of the present powerful Manchu dy
nasty. The men conceal their pig-tails (which the Man
chus do not allow them to cut off) under turbans, and are
a sturdy race with bronzed skins reddish wind-whipped
faces. All this country, and the two great passes which
it lies between, have been the scene of fighting since time
immemorial. Legend and folk songs fancifully tell how
in the dim days when the giant kings Yu-chau and Sui-
jin held the land, they repelled an invasion of the north-

An interesting Place for Loafing

A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 81
ern barbarians -Huns and Tartars. About ten o'clock
we came upon an interesting wayside temple, over which
the village patriarch proudly showed us. We made a
contribution to its maintenance fund and accepted the
gift of some rosy-cheeked apples. The life along the
road was very interesting today -we met more people:
wild looking horsemen, donkeys, completely hidden by the
great loads of branches which they were bringing in for
firewood, and animated scenes in the villages. The val
ley is broad and smiling, rich in fields of millet, corn, and
buckwheat. The threshing floors outside the villages -
worn as hard and smooth as raquet courts -were animat
ed scenes which tempted us to several snapshots. The
whole family work together from the grandsire giving
directions with his pipe handle from the top of a pile of
stalks, the young men threshing, the women winnowing,
and the children scraping up the grain and piling it in
paniers, to a useful donkey or two, blindfolded and drag
ging a stone crusher over the corn.
We tiffined at a good sized town, where we tried several
Chinese dishes -the tea was poor, tasting as though it
had been liberally mixed with millet chaff. Afterwards
we spent about an hour strolling through the streets,
stopping at fruit and grain stalls, making friends with
the children who are much shyer here than in Japan, and
sunning ourselves on doorsteps. Under the cloudless
northern sky the line of sunshine and shadow was sharply
drawn, and it was cold in the shade.
During the afternoon we fell in with a pleasant little
chap -a boy between twelve and fourteen, of the better
class. He was a nice-looking, manly fellow, a Moham
medan, and joined himself to our party out of undisguised
curiosity. We exchanged greetings, which is nearly as
far as our Chinese goes, and made him fall into step be
tween Gil and me. Presently we got into conversation
with him, through the medium of Lu, and found that he

82  EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol-
was returning to his home in the next town, having been
on a visit to his uncle in Why-li-chien. He seemed glad
we were not missionaries, but men of common clay and
simple desires like himself. In the fullness of his heart
he dived into a pocket in his capacious white trousers,
and gave us some nuts and dried beans to chew, and fair
ly beamed at being clapped on the back and hailed as ' ' The
Commodore." He was a very picturesque figure in his
black red-buttoned cap, gray surtout, red worsted belt,
baggy white trousers, black anklets, and blue shoes. Gil
included him in our picture gallery.
Our inn here at Ching-ming-ee is outside the walls
under which it nestles, and which form the rear wall of
the courtyard. It is the most picturesque caravansary
we have halted at so far, as there are several smaller
courts rambling off the big one and second story rooms
with overhanging balconies. Across the caravan-road,
which winds along beside the wall in front of our inn gate,
is the sort of picture which would make Corot or Maxfield
Parrish wild with joy. Resting your arm on a massive
stone balustrade which protects the road from the spring
floods of the winding river below, and looking out under
broad willows, you see a wide fertile valley in soft yellows
and browns. Below the dark purple mountains, which
form its further side, the thin line of another river,
touched by the sinking sun, is gleaming like burnished
copper between its fringe of trees, and even as we gaze
the thin evening mists draw up from it in twisting clouds,
like spirits of the dead. The blue smoke of half a dozen
scattered villages adds to the autumnal haze, which
spreads the glamour of unreality over all. A little behind,
and to our right, hangs - seemingly in mid air, for the
mists have now nearly obscured the mountain upon which
it is built -a dim and mighty monastery, crouching upon
the flat top of its mountain base like the dragon on the
tomb of a Chinese mandarin. A long string of laden camels
plodded past us in the gathering twilight, the deep-noted

two] A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 83
bell at the neck of their leader booming tunefully in time
to his slow ponderous stride.
With the darkness, however, the cold of evening crept
down out of the hills, for we are three thousand feet above
the sea here, and we sought the warmth and candle-light
of our inner room.
Chuen-wha-pu, October 1, 1907. This has been a
shorter day than the last two, as we did only eighty li.
We started out betimes in the morning, while the mists
were still on the rivers, and filling the valley bottom. We
curved to the right at starting (which is north, as our
course lies nearly northwest) around the base of the sac
red mountain of the monastery, which we could see clear
ly now was composed of two distinct buildings, joined by
a gigantic single-span marble bridge. It looked a pic
turesque and romantic spot, and we should like to have
taken a couple of days off, spent a night up there, and have
seen how the priests live, but felt we hadn't the time.
From here a narrow track through a grove of walnuts,
and sharply up over a small hill, brought us to another
shelf of land -part of our same valley, but perhaps four
hundred feet higher. This was about four miles across,
heavy with sand, and cut by half a dozen streams which
united below to form the two rivers before mentioned.
We forded these streams successfully, passed a long
string of fully two hundred camels, and came out of the
plateau into a harrow winding gorge which took us up to
our third valley level. The upper path in this gorge,
which was partly cut in the living rock, was high enough
to be above the reach of the spring freshets, at which time
a lower track along the shore would be submerged. This
valley was less attractive than that of Ching-ming-ee, be
ing smaller, more sandy and barren, and having fewer
trees and villages. It was a poor forlorn-looking village
at which we stopped for tiffin and tea, but the people
seemed as happy and industrious as usual. Tiffin over,

84 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY 
Gil and I strolled out and joined a family group busy
about a threshing floor. After exchanging civilities, we
sat down where we were sheltered from the cutting wind
by a great pile of millet stalks. I lay there for an hour
or so, half dozing and half day-dreaming over a pipe,
while Gil wrote assiduously in his diary. Dark storm-
clouds warned us to be on our way, however, and before
long a cold driving rain swept down from the hills, which
delayed matters a bit, as the mules and donkeys wouldn't
face it. It cleared about three-thirty, and by five, when
we reached here, the weather was beautiful.
This is a fine big city with splendidly preserved walls,
which must enclose as much as ten square miles of city.
It was so cold that we all decided to invest in fur coats,
as it seems a good emporium for that sort of thing, and
Lee had already secured a magnificent one out of the cape
of which his more than usually rubicund face shone as
from a halo. We got so interested in the people, how
ever, that we forgot all about coats, and didn't return to
the caravansary until after dark. A considerable crowd
followed us about and in order to fix their attention for
a slow snapshot (it was nearly dusk) I leaped upon a
marble slab and started a vigorous political harangue.
We luckily ran across Dick on the way back, who had
lagged behind since tiffin to secure a couple of brace of
pigeon for the pot, and who had not been able to find the
inn at which we were staying. Lee gave us another ban
quet tonight, which was served with some attempt at
style. We sat in a special little dining room -opening
off our bedroom, which was evilly lighted by two gutter
ing candles. We began with a native vegetable soup,
*hen some fish, and a local dish of vermicelli hash and
gravy, roast mutton and vegetables, oatmeal cakes, chick
en with cabbage salad, rice pudding, fruit, tea and sam-
chu - a regal feast ! Lu and the coolie waited on us and
seemed in the darkness like invisible genii who placed the
magic dishes before us, we knew not how. It is cold to

Eso a

f
so

A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 87
night, so that we have had them build a charcoal fire in
our hang (or stove bed) partly to see what it is like, and
partly, of course, to keep warm. If we don't get asphix-
iated, we may try it again.
Kalgan, October 2. As we had a comparatively short
day before us -sixty-five li-we made a later start than
usual this morning, and jogged along leisurely enough,
stopping more frequently to absorb the country. We
meandered across a hard sun-baked valley, gently undu
lating and deeply scored with numerous water-courses,
and occasionally lined with sparse avenues of poplar
trees. Sometimes the track wound along one of these
nullahs, or steep-sided clay-banked ravines, and where
the rain or overflow from the paddy fields had left a min
iature lake the going was bad for the carts. At one of
these pools we came upon a picturesque group -a couple
of herders struggling in the breast-high water with three
or four sheep they were attempting to wash. The rest of
the flock stood huddled together on the brink, like bathers
on a cold morning after someone has dipped his foot in
and found the water icy. Persia, I imagine, and Pales
tine must present much the same appearance as north
China and Mongolia; more fertile, perhaps, but with the
same hard soil, alternating clay and sand, the same in
tense glowing sunshine flooding the countryside, the same
simple and industrious rustics living much as they did two
thousand years ago, and the same seductive purples and
browns calling to one from the hollows of the hills.
Speaking of calling, some indiscreet rock-pigeons
knelled their doom by plaintive warbles from their haunts
in the nearby slopes, for the energetic Dick was after
them hot-foot. Scarcely had he started, however, before
Gil and I noticed a couple of savage figures running ap
parently to cut him off. They were stooping as they ran,
so as to practically conceal their bodies from his view, and
were carrying long ugly looking spears. " Brigands, at

88 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol-
last ! ' ' was our first thought, and with memories of the
armed escorts whom we had seen accompanying various
people of substance, I unlimbered my rifle and clapped
spurs to my gallant charger to join the fun. Lu, how
ever, shouted after me that it was all right, they were
simply the retainers of a mandarin who was now ap
proaching us. I suppose they were anxious to see what
sort of deviltry the crazy foreigner was up to now, with
intent to repeat the tale -with garnishment, no doubt -
that night, over lusty brimmers of millet wine or samchu.
So far Dick had had all the fun with his gun -I having
brought along only a rifle, thinking I might see a Peking
stag, hog-deer, antelope, or an odd wolf or two. I had
had no idea the country would be so thickly populated.
But the apparently successful reports of Dick's distant
gun now aroused my jealousy, and I whipped off to try
some long shots at one-legged cranes -or are they peli
cans ? The background was so amply filled with blue-clad
peasants, however, that I was forced to desist -after an
unsuccessful shot or two - for fear of having an annoyed
wife at my heels.
At noon we came upon a rather interesting cross-road
caravansary. There was no town here, simply a large
caravansary and a couple of huts near a pond where two
highways crossed. The place was crowded with people,
and might have been a seventeenth century inn of Eliz
abethan England. The inn servants were bustling hither
and thither and shouting "Anon, anon, Sir " in Chinese.
A Manchurian lady of some pretension to rank, to judge
by the look of her attendants and the style of her closed
mule-litter, was having refreshment in a closely-curtained
private apartment. She was so anxious to see us, how
ever, that we got a good glimpse of her- and a fine, vigor
ous, strong-minded dame she looked, heavily painted, as
a self-respecting Chinese lady should be. Several farm
ers in quilted coats and baggy trousers with ponies or
sheep for sale had put in here to get a bite and a drink,

two] A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 89
and to hear the news, as it is evidently a well-known cen
ter. There was loud talldng in the courtyard, and a good
deal of money apparently changed hands. Parties were
constantly coming and going, and donkeys were rolling
about everywhere and stirring up the dust. Several
spearmen, scowling horribly to keep up their reputation
for bravery, and one or two armed with rifles, forming the
escort of some official, were lounging about and followed
us out when we stepped over to the pond to write and
smoke. Some washer-girls presently appeared with
great bundles of clothes, and after a good deal of coy tit
tering and pushing, and " You go first," they settled
down to work, not without keeping a frequent eye on the
crazy foreigners. " Look at those absurd clothes," they
seemed to be saying, " and their teeth are white, and
what silly little pipes they smoke. Just notice their fin
ger nails, too, quite short, and -but I can scarcely believe
my eyes -they are writing backwards!" Their shrill-
voiced astonishment drew quite a crowd around us.
Kalgan is a considerable city of over one hundred thou
sand permanent population. Just at present it must be
nearer one hundred and fifty thousand, as a big horse-fair
is on, and crowds of people are down from Mongolia and
in from all the outlying districts of Pechili Province. It
is the farthest-flung post of the Chinese, although twenty-
five per cent of its inhabitants are domesticated Mongols,
and acts as a sort of depot or clearing-house for all this
section of the country. A considerable space outside the
wall is now occupied with the encampment of these fair-
time people, and as we slowly forced a way through the
crowded lanes, we saw several hastily-run-up temporary
booths, where plays, acrobat- and peep-shows were be
ing held. Cattle, sheep, pigs, children, and even horses
roamed through the crowd, which was as light-hearted
and pleasure-seeking as a New England one at a travel
ing circus and far less riotous and noisy. We visited a
couple of Chinese inns, only to find them jammed. Going

90 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol-
slowly along one of the main streets, I suddenly espied a
two-storied house with gabled windows. Gabled windows
in China, forsooth, that settled the matter. I knew there
must be beer there -there always is at gable- windowed
houses -and furthermore, I was thirsty. The others
would not listen to these arguments, but I insisted, and
sure enough, through the medium of Lu, we learned that
this house had been built by some Russian traders before
the Boxer uprising. They had been driven out at the
time, and have never returned. The Chinaman, who now
dwelt there, confessed that there were some bottles of a
foreign appearance in the cellar, and good-naturedly low
ered himself down through a trap door to see what he
could do for us. Amidst a dozen of rhenish, some stray
champagne, pickles, lucca oil, and vodka, we found a
couple of quarts of Munchner beer, and one of these was
soon foaming white over the edges of some green and yel
low China bowls. What was, if possible, even more for
tunate, we found that close by was the compound of the
French Roman Catholic Mission, and as the priests were
away, we persuaded the native caretaker to let us stop
for the night and to get Lee some water and wood.
No sooner had we gotten settled here, than we went
out to look about us, as Kalgan seemed the most interest
ing city we had yet been in. We presently found our
selves, and were tempted to linger in those streets, where
the makers and sellers of hammered brass and bronze re
side. Here were all sorts of wares from rough camel
bells to dainty drinking vessels and big Russian samovars,
speaking eloquently of the days -not long gone by -when
Russian influence had been paramount here, as well as in
Korea and Manchuria. Suddenly, through the crowd, I
caught sight of two European backs. I dashed over, as
we had heard there were some missionaries here, and we
were eager to talk with them about the country. As I
came up, I hailed in English. Two bearded men turned
around and shook their heads, replying in what sounded

two] A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 91
suspiciously like Choctaw. I then tried French with
equal ill-success. Then, guessing intuitively that they
were Russians, I conjured up the memory of some of
those telescopic mouth-fillers which friend Konstantinde
Michailov had taught me on our train ride to Phyong-
yang, and said calmly enough, as though I was asking the
price of eggs, ' ' Ezvenetzemenea Doubrouye outra Kak-
vuporshuitza.'''' The effect was startling, and I had to
run for it. I returned to the charge, however, at the first
lull in the storm, and as this bold attempt had nearly ex
hausted my knowledge of the Slavic tongue, I tackled
them in German. Greatly to my relief, I found that they
knew enough of the dear language of the fatherland for
us to get along on. Whether they were political agents
come to spy out the land, I don't know. They seemed
to have no particular reason for being there -come to do
" a little trading " they said. At any rate they told us
where we could find the compound of the American mis
sionaries on a hill about half a mile outside the city wall.
Mr. and Mrs. Sprague gave us a warm and hearty wel
come at the mission compound, and we stayed for tea, and
then took Mr. Sprague down to dine with us in the town.
We kept him talking as much as we could, as he has been
in the country for nearly thirty years, and simply oozes
information at every pore about things Mongolian and
Chinese. He was with that band of missionaries, who,
scattered here and there in the country northwest of
Peking, united here in the American Mission Compound
at Kalgan when the Boxer trouble began to look serious
in 1900. As the compound was fired upon, and they were
refused protection by the Taotai at the Yamen, they de
cided to flee across the desert of Gobi to Urga. They
made their preparations hurriedly but secretly through
the help of some faithful Chinese friends, and one dark
night got away up over the pass and out into Mongolia.
Mr. Sprague eloquently described how he had crept cau
tiously back into the town that night to get some money

92 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol-
which they had hidden in the garden of their house near
the compound. It took them nearly six weeks by camel
carts to reach Urga, as they were heavy laden with wo
men, children, and much luggage. Once here they felt
perfectly safe, and pushed on to Urkutsk, on the shores
of Lake Baikal, where they found the Trans-Siberian
Railway, and were soon in comfortable Europe. When
the trouble was over, nearly all of that band came back
again to labor amidst these people whom they had grown
to know very well and to like.
Mr. Sprague has talked so glowingly of the rolling
pampa-like table land of Mongolia, that we are all going
to make a short dash up there together, and see as much
of it as we can in four days, which is the time Mr. Sprague
has allowed himself as a vacation. It is so cold tonight
that we were glad we had all invested in woolen gloves
at Peking. Although we heard not the unending deep
jangle of the camel bells tonight, we were kept long awake
by noises in the town— a drinking orgy from the next
courtyard, music, and an occasional shout from the street,
and the rattle of the compound watchman whom we at
last silenced by pulling Lu out of bed and egging him on to
a personal encounter.
When starting for Mr. Sprague 's compound, we had
sent Lu around to the Yamen with the huge red calling
cards -mandarin size -which we had caused to be printed
with our Chinese names in Peking. My name is Ma-su
and signifies ' ' Dead Horse. " It is always courteous to
do this when in the vicinity of an official of any impor
tance. That evening we received in return the Taotai'a
cards delivered by the chief secretary of the Yamen, who
also asked to see our passports. As we had had these
viseed for Pechili, Shan-tung and Shan-si Provinces, we
were glad to comply.
Kalgan, October 6. Mr. Sprague was with us on
Thursday morning before it was light, and while I was

two] A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 93
still shaking the drops of icy water from Gil's buckets off
my shoulders. Talk about dew drops on the petals of a
morning glory ! He had brought a knife, fork, spoon, and
cup, a roll of bedding, three thoughtful overcoats for us,
a white pony, an excellent fund of spirits, and, as we later
found with joy, a saddle bag full of Mrs. Sprague 's won
derful doughnuts. We got started about six, forty-five
and pushed our way through the already crowded streets.
At one point Mr. Sprague beckoned us to follow, and
dove through a little arched gateway in a high grim look
ing wall. We came out on the other side into a smiling,
sunny, stone court, the center of two or three blocks of
houses, quite walled off from the rest of the city. This
is the club-land of Kalgan, the Eveless Eden of Mongol
ian bachelorhood, for through its sacred portals no broid-
ered silken petticoats may ever trail. The air was sweet
with the perfume of flowers which bloomed on every
house-top and terrace -roses, tuberoses, oranges, jessa
mines, gardenias, azaleas and clematis. Birds twittered
and sang happily, and the square was unquestionably
neater and cleaner in appearance than the rest of the city.
Mongolians are proverbially more jovial and greater to
pers than the Chinese, and I'll warrant these gray old walls
have witnessed many a festive wassail bout. "For 'tis
merry in the hall, when the beards wag all, ' ' and what a
happy existence these modern wise men have selected -
no disquieting dreams at night, no one to scold if they
smoke their opium pipes, no one for whom they must spend
all their taels and mace buying sesame, jessamine, and
pickled tea !
Just outside the walls the real business of the week
was going noisily on -the horse fair. A large open
space was crowded with Chinamen, Mongols, and horse-
trading priests. The Mongols, whom we, here at Kal
gan, began to see first in great numbers, have the same
small narrow eyes, large prominent ears, scanty whiskers
and beards that the Chinese have; but their faces are

94 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.

broader and flatter, cheek bones higher, and their com
plexions swarthier and more bronzed. They are stocky,
and above the average height. The men wear turbans,
and do not always have the queue. A much larger per
cent (as in Thibet) join the church than in China, and
though they lead a life which may not differ very mater
ially from that of their secular brethren, the head is
shaven, and a distinctive robe of black, purple, or yellow
is worn. All the men wear long quilted robes and heavy
leather boots lined with felt or fur. The women dress
much the same as the men, but let the hair fall down from
underneath the turban in two braids decorated with rib
bons, strings of coral or glass beads, which hang on either
side of the bosom.
Across this square we came upon the true Great Wall
of China, built by old Shih-huang-ti about two hundred
years b.c It is neither so imposing nor so well built
as the modern addition -the big subtended arc which we
saw in the Nankow Pass -but it is more interesting be
cause more primitive and has proven more useful to the
empire. Even when new -if such a hoary veteran may
be imagined as ever having been new -it must have been
but a rough affair -a mound of unhewn boulders and
earth, mortared together with clay. But now there only
remains a vague, cone-shaped structure, at times almost
shrunk beyond recognition, but at times attaining to a
height of perhaps twenty feet. Only a few of the grim
towers -miniature fortresses - which once crowned every
strategic angle or hilltop, now remain, but I climbed one
of these later in the day and up near the top of the pass,
by shinnying up through the chimney-like orifice in the
center, I doubt if this wall was ever built to be actually
defended like a city wall, or the three hundred miles or so
we saw near Nankow. Its triangular narrow-topped
shape seems to have admitted neither room for men, nor
battlements. The gates were, of course, defended, and
the rest of the wall was simply to prevent the horsemen

two] A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 95
and baggage of a really big army from getting through
before the watchman could send word, and the Chinese
army had a chance to collect and oppose them.
The Kalgan Pass is of the same general nature as that
at Nankow -a winding slash through barren hills -but is
far more interesting. Furthermore, the path is not cut
in the sides of the hills, but follows the sandy boulder-
strewn bed of a dry stream, and would, I should think,
be impracticable when the spring freshets are on. There
were several steep narrow side valleys opening into it.
Here and there a watch tower frowned down upon us, and
close to the top of one peak, high up to our right, was a
curious round hole like the arch of a natural bridge.
This, however, was not a geologic formation worn by
water or sand-laden wind, or split out by slicken-sides or
frosts, but the work of man, and a wonderful man at that.
No less a personage than Genghis Khan is responsible
for it. He was riding down the pass at the head of his
numerous bands of restless nomadic cavalry, and talk
ing in quite a casual off-hand way to a friend of him,
named Hee, when he happened to see an eagle sitting up
on top of that peak. As it chanced he particularly
wanted a new eagle feather for his helm, so whipping out
an arrow he drew the mighty bow cord up past his ear,
and let her hum. He hadn't allowed enough for the ele
vation, however, in his rough uneducated Mongolian way,
and he missed the bird by several feet, the arrow going
clean through the mountain top and leaving the hole
which is witness of the deed today. But what annoyed
the Kahn most about it all was having to wear the same
old eagle's feather into Peking.
Further on we came to an interesting village. A com
munity of Hakkas (an aboriginal people) living in caves
or burrows in the side of the sheer valley- wall. Strings
of camels and donkeys filed past, picking their way cau
tiously through the boulders, and lines of ox carts, with
wheels and axles cut from the same log like a spool, and

96 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
removed one stage nearer to the primitive sledge than
our own springless Peking carts, bounced and rat
tled down or floundered helplessly in the ruts. We
stopped at a little temple about two-thirds of the way up,
where a couple of prayer wheels were spinning furiously
in the wind, and turning out " merit " for the priests who
were lazily drinking tea on the porch. Many people sneer
at this, but I don't see why, if the Buddhists have a gen
uine faith in the efficacy of these prayer wheels, they are
not as acceptable to God as a repetition of words which is
all that the prayers of many Christians amount to. ' ' All
things are possible," we are taught, "to him that be-
lieveth. ' '
At the top of the pass was a level spot and a little lake
let, as forlorn and desolate a looking place as the Lake
of the Dead on the top of the Grimsel Pass. It is a bleak,
wind-swept spot, and a ruined tower which was outlined
against the leaden sky seemed to hint at bloody frays
which had taken place around this dark tarn, Hanoor.
There was a poor crumbling-walled inn with foul half-
choked courtyards, but it was windy and cold outside
and we bundled into the great kitchen and gladly sat on
the hang to get warm. I took a time exposure of the in
terior of this interesting room, resorting to an odd de
vice to secure the attention and immobility of those pres
ent. The first mile or so from Hanoor wound down for a
couple of hundred feet over the same sort of barren hills
we had come up through : but they opened out before long,
and we presently found ourselves on a great windy table
land about five thousand feet above the sea. It was grass-
grown and rolling like the pampas of South America.
Some scant trees and bushes were in the hollows, and
there was edelweiss growing in the heather-like grass at
our feet. A few fields of maize, oats, millet, and mus
tard showed that the Mongols near the border have be
come somewhat less hardy, and are gradually accus-

Down from the Desert of Gobi

A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 99
toming themselves to Chinese modes of life and culti
vation. But for the most part the Mongols may be said
to be nomads, whose only occupation and source of wealth
is cattle breeding, and whose riches are counted by the
number of their live stock. It is true the chiefs and very
rich men among them often own enough land to justify
a practically permanent home around which their herders
may travel and graze the cattle and horses for a con
siderable period of years -but these are exceptions. Nor
are there any cities of note to be found in the Mongolia of
today, though the ruins of several attest to the more
stable nature of the people during the days of their great
empire. The only permanent buildings and landmarks
now are the temples, which are of stone, and usually quite
wealthy institutions, owning land and cattle. They form
the center of Mongolian social and religious fife, and at
certain seasons the tribes from the whole countryside
flock into their temple for a week's worship and trade.
These are the gayest and most looked-forward-to times
of the year. Horse-racing, devil-dancing, carousing,
cattle-trading, matchmaking, and buying of wares from
the Chinese peddlers, delight the hearts of young and
old of both sexes ; but of these temples and the life which
revolves around them, more later. The Mongols live in
felt huts or tents, and are very dirty, never washing
their bodies and faces, and their hands but seldom. A
Mongol can have only one lawful wife, but he can keep
concubines whose children are illegitimate, and have no
share in the inheritance. Bribery and corruption are as
prevalent as in China, though the people in unofficial
matters are as honest as may be, and of well known gener
osity. Their religious services are performed in Tibetan,
and next to that of Thibet itself, the Buddhism practiced
in Mongolia is of the purest and most rational cult.
So much from friend Sprague, but meanwhile we are
forging on apace, and have gotten into a maze of low val
leys all looking alike, and with tracks winding about in

100 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
every direction. We had been riding on ahead, scanning
the countryside for distant encampments or herds of cat
tle, and busily talking, or rather listening to Mr. Sprague,
so that we had, without realizing it, left our carts far be
hind and out of sight. Mr. Sprague, with the shrewd ex
perience of an old campaigner, was for waiting until they
should have caught up with us, but we- with the optimism
of youth- would have none of it, and we accordingly com
promised by leaving one of the mafoos to pick them up
and show them the track which we intended to follow
from here. The tall, stringy, single-orbed boy whom we
had dubbed ' ' Bat-eyed Bill ' ' intimated by a series of
startling grimaces and shiverings that he was afraid to
stay on account of wolves. This was absurd on the face of
it at this time of the year, and the other lad, fur-coated and
of sterner stuff, consented to remain alone, so we pressed
on. About four-thirty we came to the encampment of a
Mongol squire, or petty chieftain, and a friend of Mr.
Sprague. He is the eldest son of the former king of
southeastern Mongolia who held it in fief direct from
Peking. Of recent years, however, a governor is ap
pointed, and Da Shoya (elder brother) now pays tribute
to this official at Kalgan for the land he holds. He is
still a very wealthy gentleman, however, and his estab
lishment was one of the semi-permanent kind with a sub
stantial mud wall and a low framework of wooden wattles
about the tents. A large house of mud bricks with a
chimney and tiled roof spoke of comfortable affluence,
worldly circumstances, and well-husbanded stores and pro
vender against the bleak winter. Half a dozen great
black Mongolian dogs dashed out at our approach, bark
ing fiercely and disturbing great clouds of pigeons from
the eaves, who went whirring off to seek other shelter.
A couple of bronzed, bright-eyed lads took our jaded
mounts, while a sort of major domo or general factotum
led us into the main room where we were presently joined
and warmly greeted by Da Shoya, who insisted upon our

two] A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 101
staying the night. We hardly had time to see that he was
a short wizened old man with a shrewd kindly face and
shaven poll like a priest, before a retainer brought in
tea, cheese, and bowls of quivering curds. The tea was
salted and tasted bitter at first, but was really very re
freshing, while we found that the combination of cheese
dipped in curds and eaten with oatmeal cakes was very
delicious. Mr. Sprague exchanged greetings and ques
tions of a private nature with Da Shoya, who is a friend
of many years standing, and explained who we were, the
object of our visit, and the pleasure we felt at making
his acquaintance, the honor we had in accepting his hos
pitality, etc. We then went out to see that our mules
were well looked after and fed, and to see if the carts
were yet visible. As the sun was setting in black storm-
clouds which were rolling up from the west, Mr. Sprague
grew anxious about them, and saddling up his white pony,
set out to look for them. If we could have been of any
assistance, we would have gladly gone, too, but not know
ing the language, we would have had to stick close to him,
which would simply have meant more work for our al
ready fagged donkeys. Shortly after he left, a snow and
hail storm broke in splendid fury. The icy bullets drove
us all in to take shelter and caused us considerable un
easiness for Mr. Sprague, for though robust and active,
he is over sixty, and it was cold and wet. The storm blew
itself out in a half hour or so, and the beauty of the fiery
sunset was enhanced by a magnificent clear-cut double
rainbow. With twilight it grew cold -the intense biting
cold of windy places - and by dark Mr. Sprague had still
not returned. We hung a lantern aloft on the pole of a
prayer wheel and fired off guns at intervals. Presently
an answering hail from the darkness announced the ap
proach of someone, and we ran out across the slippery icy
grass to lead in Mr. Sprague and the white pony. He had
seen nothing of the carts.
Da Shoya had already put a tent at our disposal, and

102 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY 
a fire of buffalo chips (dried manure) was smoldering
sullenly in an iron brazier, filling the tent with smoke and
warmth. A steaming mutton stew (the piece-de-resis
tance of most substantial Mongolian meals) was brought
in, together with oatmeal cakes, cheese, and salted tea,
and we did ourselves very well. The handsome young
priest, who brought them in, sat with us a long time, re
plenishing the fire and talking to Mr. Sprague. Through
the smoke vent on top of the tent -which we had some
difficulty in persuading them to leave open -the cold stars
peeped in upon us, and we finally knocked the ashes out
of our pipes, rolled up in sheepskins and turned in upon
the hard mud floor, accounting ourselves lucky not to be
out upon the open wind-swept plains with our carters.
Friday was a splendid clear bracing day, and we were
stirring early. After a bowl of milk, we set out to have
a look around. About half a mile to the right we espied
a small cart-caravan encamped. They were having break
fast, and with true Mongol courtesy asked us into their
tent and pressed us to share their rice and a thick green
soup which tasted better than it looked. They had come
down all the way from Urga and had been six weeks cross
ing the desert of Gobi. They were laden with timber,
camels '-hair, and hides, which they hope to dispose of at
Kalgan. Our mafoo had stopped there enquiring for us
about an hour before, but had pushed on, so we dis
patched one of Da Shoya's tribesmen after him on our
return to our tent. After a good tuck-in of oatmeal, tea,
and eggs, we set out for a well known temple about six
miles across the low hills to the westward, where we
hoped to get tidings of our carts. There were some four
or five buildings here surrounded by a substantial brick
wall, and the muscular and rather thuggish looking priests
soon became very chummy and curious. They could give
us no information about our carts, but pressed sesamied
tea and cheese upon us. They dressed exactly like other

Da Shoya's Encampment

A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 105
Mongols, except that their heads were shorn, and their
robes yellow or purple.
We returned to Da Shoya's for tiffin, and as our own
mounts, even when in good trim, were hardly equal to
the task, we were glad to avail ourselves of his generous
offer to send out some of his well-mounted tribesmen to
scour the country for our carts. These cowboys use the
heavy padded wooden Chinese saddles, and ride with a
very short stirrup. They are excellent horsemen, women
and children as well as men, since they spend most of
their waking moments with a horse between their knees,
and are in fact too lazy and well supplied with steeds ever
to walk. In the meantime we decided to pay a visit to
the temple and encampment of Su Shoya (younger bro
ther) , six or seven miles to the east. This is the ancestral
seat of the family, and Su Shoya, the brother of our pres
ent host, is the family priest and looks after the worship
and upkeep of the family temple. This temple is smaller
but richer than that which we had seen in the morning,
and one of Da Shoya's sons who is a priest here, showed us
about. Inside the wall were two buildings of brick and
stone, with tiled roofs and carved wooden cornices. Along
the ridge poles and down the edges of the tent-like roof,
were perched grotesquely carved animals, lions, wolves,
and deer, while from the corners hung down lamps and
curious Buddhistic temple bells. These bells are flat
sheets of attuned brass about half an inch thick, and
shaped like flowers. The interior of the main building
consists of one large room -with round cushions and rugs
for each member of the community, and a sort of altar at
one end -and two small ones behind it. The place was
dimly lighted, and at first we were aware of no more than
glints and gleams from the altar and the tall candles en
sconced in murky niches in the wall. But the priest flung
back a curtain from a small high window and showed us
the temple treasures, gold and silver images of Buddha,
gold and silver temple bells and strangely carved devil

106  EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol-
daggers, great brass horns for processions, and small sil
ver ones for service, banners, embroideries, silken rugs,
and carpets from Kashmir and Bokhara, and their cos
tumes, masks, and plumed head-dresses used in the devil-
dances. These devil-dances are among the most curious in
stitutions left to a religion (Mahayanic Buddhism) which
is characterized by sincerity and simplicity of ritual. The
priests who aspire to the dignity of " devil dancers " are
practically spiritual media who profess to be possessed.
They dance and exhort themselves into a sort of ecstatic
frenzy, and when in this state profess to be able to an
swer questions as to the disease and remedies to be ap
plied for the relief of those on whose behalf they are
consulted. Some of them even claim the power to sum
mon actual demons or spirits by the aid of the curiously
wrought three-pronged devil daggers. The wealth of the
temple is shown by the number of silk- webbed cloths they
possess. These silk webs are of a curious filmy texture,
and form the nearest approach to currency that exists
in Mongolia. Each piece (about twelve by eighteen in
ches) is worth roughly twenty cents, and with it the peo
ple pay a sort of tithe to the temple, laying so many
pieces on the knees of the Buddha every year, as is com
mensurate with their wealth and income. As they have
to buy these from the temple first with horses, cattle,
cheese or grain, it is easy to see why the temples are
rich in this land of simple minded and devout people. At
the great temple festals when there is cattle-trading, buy
ing, and selling, horse-racing and betting going on, these
silks pass freely from hand to hand at a fixed nominal
value. I secured some of these silken coins as well as a
thin, flower-shaped temple bell with a beautiful clear
tone. Su Shoya's sister is the grass-widow of a northern
Mongolian king, so that we felt very much awed as
we stepped across her entrance court. We were met and
escorted in by a tall, copper-skinned, hawk-eyed fellow,

two] A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 107
who looked like an Indian, and proved to be the head man,
or overseer of the estate. The queen, who lives in all
honor, like Josephine at Malmaison, is a delightful rosy-
cheeked old lady, and soon had us ensconced on a cush
ioned hang and busy over sesamied tea and a bowl of
cheese and thick clotted cream. She, as well as her two
nieces and one of her nephews (children of still another
brother), wear Chinese clothes, which is the height of
esprit and refinement, since all fashions in Mongolia
come from Peking. The house is large and with more at
tempt at comfort and ornament than Da Shoya's. There
were books lying about, jade bowls, parchments, carved
crystals, lacquer, and silk screens. Su Shoya owns fewer
horses but more cattle than Da Shoya, and is very rich
on account of being high-priest of the temple. Although
it was getting dark, and the younger niece was very
pretty, we resisted the cordial urging of the old lady and
her head man to stay for the night, and set out for Da
Shoya's again, hoping to hear from our carts. It was
cold and dark before we got back, and after seeing our
mafoo, who had been found, and hearing that there was
news of the carts having passed through a distant village
during the morning, we ate another hearty meal of mut
ton, oatmeal, cheese whey, and tea, and turned in.
A little snow had fallen in through our opened chimney
flap during the night, but it was clear, bright, and cold
Saturday morning. We spent most of the day around Da
Shoya's house and encampment, watching the life and
daily routine of its inmates -the milking, cheese and but
ter-whey making, the horse hospital, and the cattle nur
sery. All the people are as friendly and as politely cu
rious about kodaks, shoe-laces, and shaving brushes, as a
lot of children. Their milk-white teeth are constantly
displayed in smiles, and we have gotten to be very fond of
the whole family, especially some of the young boys. It
seemed to be mutual. The women -even the wives of the
poorest herders - are very fond of ornaments and jewelry,

108 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
which chiefly take the form of great beaten silver earrings,
forehead-lets and finger rings. Beads and even bright
colored seeds are strung side by side with gold and tur
quoise. The priests all have brass or carved wooden
rosaries. The people, though very dirty, seem healthy
compared with the Chinks and even the Japs -but who
wouldn't be, exercising and sleeping in such glorious air,
and with plenty of wholesome nourishing food !
After tiffin we visited the ruins of a temple on a nearby
bill, and some queer burying mounds, suggestive of these
left by our own American predecessors. About four
amidst great excitement, San Lama (Da Shoya's head
man) turned up with our carts.
Our men seemed to be rather nervous and bewildered
with so many fierce Mongol eyes upon them, but bright
ened up when they caught sight of us, while Lee, spring
ing off the front of his cart, made a low sweeping cour
tesy which caused even the corners of old Da Shoya's
mouth to twitch. Cheered by the sight of his adored mas
ters, Lee fairly outdid all previous efforts, and we and our
host sat down to a meal, which if cosmopolitan and varied
in character, was both elaborate and tasty. After dinner
we entertained with close harmony and barber-shop
swipes, the whole household gathering round in wonder
ing joy, ready to laugh, or cry, or run for their lives.
It was a dark misty morning when we bade our kind
Mongolian friends good-bye, and started back for Kalgan
and Peking. Of course such a thing as payment for food
and lodging received would have been out of the question
with such a gentlemanly rancher as Da Shoya, and we
didn't attempt it, but we were surprised that even the
tips we made to his housekeeper and servants were re
turned. We had brought nothing suitable with us but
finally made up a joint gift of a nickel soap-box, a pair of
nail scissors, a celluloid toothbrush case, and a spoiled ko
dak film, which last seemed to please them very much as a
curiosity.

Some of Da Shoya's Sheep and Cattle

 A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 111
Even on the way back we had difficulty in keeping the
carts always in sight. Mr. Sprague told us a good deal
about the manners, morals, and mode of life of the Mon
gols and north Chinamen, and his methods of work among
them. Like other spreaders of the gospel since our
Lord's time, he finds that he can often make a better start
with medicine and healing. He has studied largely with
this in view and is very often called upon by people he
has never seen before. He once sewed up a man who
had had his wind pipe cut clean through in a drunken
brawl, and ultimately saved his life. The worst calamity
that can possibly befall a Chinaman is to have a person
die on his doorstep. He is held responsible by the genii
of the place and sooner or later it will destroy the Fung
Shui of his home, and he will sicken and die. According
ly, to really threaten a man in China, you declare that you
will commit suicide on his doorstep during the night.
You then have him at your mercy, and he will do any
thing to get you to promise not to.
We lunched again at Hanoor, where Gil secured a good
picture of a wild-looking tribesman in a bright scarlet
cloak and hood who lent a touch of color to the dreary
scene. Six o'clock found us back in the comfortable mis
sion house, tired and footsore, for I at least had walked
all the way (one hundred and five li) ; and Dick had
made several fruitless detours on the off chance of pick
ing up a duck at several ponds or small meers we saw.
We stayed for dinner, and 0 how refreshing was the
rather primitive hot bath which motherly Mrs. Sprague
treated us to! In want of surgical instruments, Mr.
Sprague cut out a deep abscess in the side which had been
bothering me for some time, with a razor.
Shan-si-fu, October 7. We made an early start this
morning, and the weather being a glorious inspiration,
and we feeling very fit, we pushed on past the great cross
road caravansary where we had had tiffin the day before,

112 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
and took ours today at Chuen-wha-fu, where we had spent
the night on the way up. The road was as interesting
as ever, and there seemed to be more threshing going
on than usual. During the afternoon an incident occurred
which showed us the proper value of Lee. Our first cart
got stuck in a narrow defile with another one coming in
the opposite direction, whose driver refused to budge.
At first the very impudence of the creature seemed to
take Lee's breath away, then he slid down from his seat
and advanced with stately stride. He told the man what
he thought of him and his behavior, alluded to his ances
try, and touched delicately upon the disgrace he would
be to his children. He then told the man that we were
great generals from over the sea, and could annihilate
him at a glance. The poor fellow visibly quailed at this,
but started to remonstrate and perhaps explain, when
Lee burst out upon him again. He was purple in the face
by this time, and tearing at the throat of his pajamas for
air, the words came spluttering out of his mouth like lead
from a Colt-automatic, and so great was the din that we
ourselves were forced, for very shame, to go on and leave
him. A last look back before turning the corner showed
us the carter having dragged his vehicle back out of the
way, leaning against a wheel in a state of mental col
lapse, while Lee, reclining in graceful ease, was fling
ing a few choice adjectives back over his shoulder.
" Sweet are the uses of adversity! "
Why-li-chien, October 8. With the laudable inten
tion of continuing our good work of yesterday, and sav
ing a day on the return journey, we arose and break
fasted at four. We traveled with the stars and the camels
this morning -in fact the latter so much as to be quite a
nuisance. The solemn full-toned notes of their bells
warned us when a string was approaching, and if the
track was narrow at the time, we would have to turn out
and make room for them. We were filing through the

two] A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 113
narrow gorge above Ching-ming-ee when the dawn broke,
and the beautiful lights on cliff and rapid quite reconciled
us to the nose-nipping cold.
At Ching-ming-ee, although we didn't stop, I went out
of my way to look in at my former inn, on the off chance
of finding some money I had lost on the way up. I wasn't
positive it was here, but it proved to be; and the land
lord turned it over to me. This was a pleasant corro
boration of our preconceived opinion of Chinese honesty,
as the landlord didn't even know that we were return
ing that way. I don't believe it would have happened
in Japan. To be sure, the penalties against thieving
are very severe, but like many other Chinese laws,
they are seldom enforced. The dread of the white
man's vengeance hangs over the land, however, and the
memory of the terrible reprisal, taken after the Boxer
uprising, is still fresh in men's minds. During the after
noon we did a little more rifle shooting, and Dick was
keen to get some wild geese which were flying low over
head, but only had number sevens, and though we heard
several shots tell, he failed to drop any. We enjoyed
this afternoon very much in a mild lazy way -discussing
a variety of inappropriate but interesting topics, and
comparing our notes on the country. China -or the
northern part of it -is a less beautiful, charming, and
pleasant land than Japan; you make acquaintances in
Japan much more readily, and the people are more polite
and assiduous, but China strikes me as a more interesting
and robust country, a land of promise and possibility.
The people's business word is as good as their bond, and
though they frankly do not like foreigners very much,
their national honor is less sullied than the Japanese. It
is true that they are cold-blooded and cruel, like the Japs
and other eastern nations, but they are more dependable
and reliable than the excitable Japs. If the Japs are the
French of the Orient, clever and excitable, the Chinese
are its Germans, steady and plodding. There are no

114 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
pretty girls to give you tea, sing lullabies, and fan away
the mosquitoes, but there are patient, hard-working,
strong men who mean some day to place their country in
the forefront of the nations. The land has gone forward
slowly, and though at one time, of course, way ahead of
Europe, it boasts few comforts and conveniences accord
ing to our notions today. Especially is this so in Mon
golia. Here is a curious paradox, however. I heard an
Englishman in Peking pointing out this very fact to a
Chinese official, and citing the modern banking system as
an example of it. ' ' Why at home, ' ' he exclaimed, ' ' I don 't
have to carry money around with me. I just get a draft
on a bank which is honored at the city to which I am go
ing. ' ' After he had left, the Chinaman turned to me with
a smile and observed that Europe had borrowed that par
ticular system entire from China, where it had been in
use for a thousand years. The position of women in
China is also an indication of the almost stagnation which
has been going on there. It is not courtesy, for instance,
to ask after a friend's wife, in China. She is treated as
nonexistent. In referring to his children the Chinese
gentleman of the old school will say that he boasts so
many bags of gold or lotus blossoms (boys) and is bur
dened with so many old brooms (girls).
There was a beautiful sunset tonight as we approached
Why-li-chien, seeming to flood the whole atmosphere with
a soft rich amber light, and to intensify the purples of
the hills. The rosy rays filtering in level lines through
an avenue of drooping elms which led up to the main gate,
transfigured the homely domestic scenes and the simple
happy-voiced folk about us with its Midas touch of gold
en magic. At the foot of the side gate near our inn, the
same sheep-skin coated old gentleman sat, curled up in
the dust, smoking his long straight pipe. As he recog
nized us, his face broke into a wrinkled smile, and he
gurgled rapturously. Our stock of Chinese phrases was
pretty limited, but we repeated them over and over again

The Caravansary

 A DIP INTO MONGOLIA 117
till out of hearing and each produced its appreciative
giggle. A most pleasant and comfortable old man.
Nankow, October 9. Up at six, and away by six, forty-
five. Our road this morning lay for some time along the
willow-bordered bank of a stream. From its farther
shore fields stretched away to the walls of a distant mud
village, and some rather tardy farmers had still not fin
ished their fall plowing. It is an incongruous sight to
see a horse and a donkey, or a donkey and a bullock, har
nessed to the same plow. And the plows themselves,
rough wooden affairs, which hardly more than turn the
surface earth. Yet I daresay that these primitive old
scrapers of their forefathers are better for the crops than
would be one of our big deep-shared steel ones, for north
China is not a fertile land, the cultivatable soil being but
a shallow super-strata. It was a warm pleasant day, and
a bright-eyed girl on the stepping stones of the stream
crossing, turned our thoughts upon the eternal feminine.
They seem to have a harder lot here than in most places,
except India. The peasant women work like beasts of
burden, and the Japanese wife is far more her husband's
companion than the Chinese. Those in higher stations
lead at best a dull colorless existence, having no place in
the social life of the community, in fact, as in ancient
Greece and Persia, it is the professional entertainers and
courtesans of wit, beauty, and culture, literati and con
versationalists, who, until recent years have stood upon
the highest pinnacle of enlightened and charming Chinese
womanhood. They were famous in song and poetry and
legend, and mandarins and viceroys were proud to rank
themselves in the circle of acquaintances of some of these
ladies. From this interesting topic we finally slid easily
enough to the subject of our own women-folk and began
to analyze that happy combination of qualities, tastes,
and charm, which go to make up perfect desirability. We
decided -but there were three of us, and bachelors at that,

118 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
so I need say no more than " So many men, so many
minds." At any rate, we were each perfectly satisfied
with the picture he had conjured up, and each wondered
how much the other's ideal woman existed in fact, and
how much in fancy.
We had tiffin at La Dow, a small village close to the
great wall, where they gave us plums and grapes. After
wards we strolled on ahead of the donkeys and carts and
went down a little into the tunnel, to watch the Chinese
engineers at work. As they were just about to do some
blasting, however, we had to beat a hasty retreat. Back
under the Great Wall and down the rugged pass we
wound, past wayside temples and through more crum
bling city walls. Five o'clock found us again entering
friend Lu Su's establishment at Nankow, which in the
light of our travels we could now see was far above the
ordinary Chinese inn. At first we had thought it rough
and primitive, but now it seemed quite up-to-date, for
they had a tin bath-tub !
After dinner, into which Lee had put his whole soul in
tender farewell, we had a general settling up with all ex
cept Lu, who will stay with us as long as we are in China.
The sheep-skin-coated mafoo, and "Bat-eyed Bill"-
Ulysses and Polyphemus, we call them - seemed much af
fected at the thought of leaving us, but brightened up
when they heard the chink of their wages. Lee, the Mag
nificent, was sitting mournfully on the stove with his foot
in the soup-tureen, crooning a plaintive Chinese love song
in a queer, falsetto tenor, and strumming a heart-broken
accompaniment on a two-stringed guitar. That guitar
and his language are Lee's only vices, but as Mark Twain
says that it is not safe to trust a man who has no petty
faults, we felt that Lee had not lived in vain. We over
hauled ourselves tonight, and found that except for a few
blisters and pealed noses we are in splendid shape. The
trip which is over now, has done us lots of good -we have
been ' ' full of health and hunger ' ' as Dick says, and have

two] PEKING 119
seen intimately and learned much of a very interesting
country and people.

Peking, October 10. Left Nankow at eight-fifty, arriv
ing in Peking at ten-thirty. We got off at another station
which necessitated a bumpy four mile rickshaw ride
across the city. It seemed to be a gloomy day in Peking,
and we passed two funeral processions. They were head
ed by pairs of banners borne at intervals by boys or cool
ies, then a band of some eight instruments, four on a side,
and two being played at a time, then more banners, and
then the coffin carried by coolies on a brilliant palanquin.
The mourners were dressed in white, and the coffin and
the prevailing color of the banners and musicians' uni
forms, was red. They all seemed happy, and a lady, who
from her position must have been at least a relative of
the deceased, smiled bewitchingly at us from her sedan
chair. It was in strange contrast to a somber wedding
procession which I had seen before leaving for Mongolia.
The poor bridegroom had been on the point of tears.
Did some shopping in the afternoon, and paid some
farewell calls. At Mr. Jamison's house, where we were
lounging about five o'clock, was born the idea of going
to Formosa. We looked over shipping lists and found we
could get a boat sailing the next day from Ching-wang-
tau, and due in Shang-hai three days later. Had tea
with Haskins and Mrs. H., the former giving me a letter
to his friend Arnold in Formosa. Peck and Casanave
were there, and with the latter I had a most interesting
talk about the Ladak, a country east of Kashmir, to which
he has been, and of the overland trip from Saigon to
Bangkok which he made about fifteen years ago. He says
the mosquitoes are as big as crows ! There was also a
pleasant young chap named Brady there, a Williams man,
touring the world with some friends. The rest left last
night for Hankow, but Brady is going to stay with Has-

120 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
kins a week, joining them later in Hong Kong. Dropped
in on Riggs, Gulick, Vogel, and Brown, where I spent a
very pleasant two hours, Gil and Dick picking me up
about eight o 'clock. We had with Lu another dinner at
a fashionable Chinese restaurant, and we spent the later
evening pleasantly with Mr. Jamison and Mr. McCor-
mick. . .
On Board the Loksang, October 16. . . After leav
ing the silk factory (Shang-hai), Lu and I took tea about
dusk at the famous Willow Pattern Tea House in the
heart of the native city. Lu gave me quite a long and a
very interesting talk on Chinese morals, customs, and city
life. Dined pleasantly with Dr. and Mrs. Thwing and
Mr. and Mrs. Smith, whom we had found here. We sent
Lu down before dinner with our luggage, and started our
selves about ten on foot, to find our boat. We wandered
through the dark narrow streets of the native quarter of
Shang-hai, picking our way over the docks and piers, and
around the slips, but never seeming to come any nearer
to any sizable ship. At last we found out from a Chink
gambling party upon whom we intruded, that she was
anchored somewhere out in the darkness of the river. We
got hold of a sampan and a couple of boys to scull out.
She proved to be a small but comfortable packet of about
sixteen hundred tons. As we stepped on board about
eleven o'clock, we heard voices, and climbing down into
the little aft saloon, dimly lighted by a swinging lamp,
found a couple of men with pipes and glasses engaged in
animated discussion. They proved to be a small, nerv
ous, bearded German in the customs service, and the
bushy eye-browed, bronzed chief officer. They were
swapping stories and experiences and kept us up until
about two o 'clock in the morning, listening to their inter
esting talk about odd corners of the world.
On board the Loksang, October 17 to 18. Typical lazy

two]  ON BOARD THE LOKSANG 121
loafing days. A little rain, weather otherwise beautiful.
Much talk -all the officers are interesting or amusing -
and much reading. I 've got hold of a most excellent book
by Colquhoun, called Amongst the Shans. The Shans
were the fathers of both the Indo-Chinese and the Chinese
races of both the southern and inner parts of the empire,
and are ethnologically as well as biologically very im
portant. At one time practically all of Assam, Upper and
Lower Burma, the present Shan States, Malaysia, Siam,
Cambodia, Anam, Tonkin, Cochinchina, and Yunnan
Province were united in a rather loose empire. The cap
ital of this empire was the old jungle-buried city of Ang
kor Thorn, in Cambodia, and there was evolved, some
where about the sixth century, a very splendid and power
ful civilization. But it proved ephemeral like all empires
and civilizations, developed in warm countries, where
nature is lavish of her bounty and there is nothing to
contend against, and nothing to build up sturdy and ener
getic characters. This is still as rich a land as any part
of the old world, yet the little kingdom of Siam is the
only part of it which is now independent. England owns
Assam, Burma, and the Strait Settlements, and controls
the Shan States and the federated Malay States, prac
tically owning them. France owns Cambodia, Tonkin, and
Cochinchina, while China herself has absorbed Yunnan.
Siam only is left, and they seek her life to destroy it.
In the Shan States there are some very interesting wild
peoples, who are practically independent, and many of
whom, as roving bands of dacoits, prove a great thorn in
the side of England and Burma. The Shans, the Was, the
Kachins, the white and red Karens (head hunters) and
many others.
The scenery is beautiful, almost equal to that of the In
land Sea. Countless rocky islands, jutting headlands,
land-locked bays, cliffs, caves, dark rocks with white foam
fringing their bases, and, on the mainland, distant moun
tains. Myriads of junks and fishing sampans dot the

122 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
gulfs, their red, yellow, and green mat sails making a very
picturesque scene. These waters were the haunts of the
notorious Chinese pirates who are even yet not entirely
extinct. Our captain has had several brushes with them
during his twenty years in Chinese waters. It is in the
barren coastlands, too, between Foochow and Amoy, that
the famous cave-tiger e of southern China is occasionally
obtained. Foochow, Saturday, October 19. . . The thirty
miles of the Min River up which we steamed this morn
ing were very beautiful; long quiet reaches, hills more
completely terraced for tea than the vine-clad slopes of
the Rhine, and eminences crowned with the ruins of old,
or bristling with the powerful modern guns of new, forti
fications. These last have been built by the energetic
viceroy of Fuhkien Province, who, mindful of the days
when a French fleet came in and destroyed all his boast
ed men-of-war and forts, wishes to be prepared the next
time. Foochow - though its very name, I imagine, is un
familiar at home - is the third city of China, and of vastly
more importance to the Chinese than, for instance, Shang
hai. The Chinaman regards Shang-hai simply as a small
foreign community, a delightful and interesting pleasure
resort, but too expensive for the purses of most of them.
Foochow 's foreign trade in tea -which used to be con
sidered the best in all China -has dropped in the past ten
years from twenty million to four million pounds, the teas
of Ceylon, Java, and Formosa having largely driven it
out of the market.
We expected to be able to leave this morning, but found
that our little eight hundred ton Jap steamer, the Amoy
Maru, does not sail till Tuesday. Secretly I am rejoic
ing, for although Formosa is the goal we are steering for,
Foochow is too full of beauty and interest, too far from
• For a description and an account of the method of hunting this rare,
curious, and dangerous beast, see special note in Hunting Note Book.

two] FOOCHOW 123
the usual tourist's stamping ground, and too different
from anything we have seen, to be missed. On the
launch, which, after depositing our luggage on the Amoy
Maru, took us farther up the river to the Italian-looking
stone landing quay shaded with lime trees, we met Mr.
Wilder -consul at Hong Kong, Yale '84, New Englander,
and very pleasant.
No hotel, so we took toothbrushes, pajamas, and clean
collars up to Brocket's General Store, over which there
are a couple of rooms. This is on an island where the
small foreign community -consuls, customs officers, mis
sionaries and tea traders -live. Their bungalows are
on top of a hill overlooking the warehouses and a small
native settlement, and set in green park-like luxuriance.
We called on Dr. Gracey at our consulate, and were cor
dially urged to stay for tiffin. There was Mrs. Gracey,
a very pleasant hostess, and vice consul Baker, a young
Californian. The consulate is delightfully situated with
a garden full of brilliant, but for the most part, unnam-
able flowers, ferns, and palms, stretching down to the
river. Dr. Gracey has been here for seventeen years, with
only one vacation of eighteen months, and finds it very
healthy -he had been quite run down before securing the
appointment -and is very much interested in the people
and the work which is being done among them by a
zealous band of missionaries. During his absence in 1900
a certain fiery Colonel Pimpernickel from South Carolina,
held the post, and his name is held in fear and awe even
now by the Chinese. The viceroy of Fuhkien Province
rules nearly sixty millions, and has four Taotais under
him. He was an able and canny Chink, and kept his pro
vince pretty quiet during the Boxer revolt, but once word
was brought in that some English up-country missionaries
were " being murdered." The British consul was a slow
lethargic chap, and upon being disturbed at a game of bil
liards at the club with this news, said he would drop over
and see the Taotai in the morning. This simply meant that

124 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
the Taotai would report that the rumor was false, and that
he had just received word from that quarter to the effect
that everything was quiet. A couple of days later, on the
confirmation of the tidings, he would of course be very
sorry and do all that he could -but in vain -to catch the
offenders. Colonel Pimpernickel, however, was more
strenuous. He allowed that this was the chance, Sir, for
which he had been waitin' yere for, Sir, by gad, Sir; and
with a rifle in one hand, and a shotgun in the other, his
boots full of six-shooters, and his hat band bristling with
bowie knives, he dashed off in a rickshaw to the rescue.
He shot at the lights and chickens in all the villages
through which his terrified coolies whirled him, and the
news of his coming was borne along before him on the ex
aggerating breeze of rumor. The upshot of the matter
was that he fired a couple of loads of buckshot into some
Chinks, and brought the missionaries back safe and
sound. At another time one of his servants was to be
tried for thieving, by a Chinese court, and in true oriental
fashion the judge wished to delay and put off the trial for
a couple of months. The redoubtable colonel, however,
strode into the courtroom, drew a chair up to the judge's
desk, slammed his revolver down in front of him, and
asked when the trial was to be. " Next week," said the
judge feebly. " I guess I didn't catch what you said,"
said the colonel, agajn banging his revolver. ' ' I said the
day after tomorrow," replied the judge. " Can't you
reconsider that? " said the colonel, drawing another re
volver. ' ' After due consideration, ' ' announced the judge
hastily, ' ' the court has decided to hold the trial this after
noon." " Well I reckon that's better," said the colonel.
" Go ahead, don't mind me," and he lit a stogie. At an
other time a dispute arose and the colonel sent down
word that he wanted to see the Taotai at once. The Tao
tai sent back word that he couldn't see him. The colonel
mounted and rode down to the Yamen, but was told that the
Taotai was sick. "All right, Sir," says he, "I'll wait

two]  FOOCHOW 125
till he feels better," and sent back for his bed and some
food. Hardly had he gotten a camp pitched in the court
yard of the Yamen, however, before he received word that
the Taotai 's condition was less critical, and that he would
be graciously pleased to give him an audience. The
colonel was constantly threatening to send for a battle
ship, and went home at last, feeling that he had had ' ' a
bully good time." A great crowd of Chinese officials
came down to see him off.
After tiffin President Peak (Yale '85 !) of Foochow Col
lege, came over, and we had quite a pleasant Yale reunion.
He insisted upon the three of us getting into chairs and
coming over with him to the Compound of the American
Board Mission. This was one of the most interesting
rides I have ever had, swaying down the hill out across
the famous old stone Bridge of a Thousand Ages, crowd
ed with passers and sidewalk merchants, and through
three miles of the narrow, crowded, dirty, noisy streets
of this great city. China is such a vast country that
there is as much difference between a northern and south
ern Chinaman, as between a Swede and Spaniard. The
north Chinaman is larger, braver, more robust, and
bronzed, than his southern compatriot, who sneers at him
as an untutored barbarian, and it must be admitted that
most of the culture and learning of China is to be found
in Foochow, Amoy, Canton and the other great southern
cities, while politics center around Peking, and the for
eign trade at Shang-hai and Hong Kong. The southern
er is yellower, smaller-boned, more intelligent and refined,
and though no more industrious, yet makes a better busi
ness man than the Manchu or the Mongol.
One hears so much of the reeking filth of the south
China cities, that I must confess to being agreeably sur
prised. It was dirty, to be sure, very dirty; offal and
refuse of all kinds strewing the streets, blood and bits
of meats from the open-fronted butcher shops, and grease
and oil and candle drippings added to the mud, made the

126 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
worn paving stones so smooth that our bearers were con
stantly slipping and sliding; but there was nothing that
was not perfectly natural under the existing conditions
of intensely dark narrow streets and overhanging houses,
nor was there any accumulation of it. The men all go
naked from the waist up (wearing long baggy trousers
in strange contrast to the coated but bare-legged Japan
ese coolies) and wear the round, broad, painted wicker
hat with a peaked center and curled up edge which we had
expected to find only in the Shan States and Indo-China.
The end* of the pig tail is braided with silk and bound
about the head like a turban. The women, except the so
called " water women," have small feet, and wear three
silver bodkins stuck in their piled-up hair so as to form
a cross, and large silver rings in their ears, reaching to
the shoulders. Foochow, like Canton, has a large float
ing population. Whole families live and move and have
their being in the junks and sampans which crowd the
river front and lie in every canal and slip through the
city. They are mostly handled by strong flat-footed wo
men and girls, who are generally considered the best
looking class of girls in China. The south China coast is
the home of that terrible storm, the typhoon, so that men
and women both get plenty of practice in rough weather
and are as expert handlers of small craft as the longshore
New England fisherman or our own Great Lakes sailors.
A scene such as we were passing through, is only repul
sive as long as one feels that the people are all strangers.
As soon as you begin to know and understand the China
man, it all seems natural and as it should be. You look
through the mass of wild yellow faces, trying to read their
thoughts -you notice the children playing amid the brass-
ware and china in the bazaars, as children are playing at
home, and you smile at the pretty girl who is selling dried
fish from an osier basket. You glance through the shop
to the family scene which is going on in the house behind -
the same room serving as workshop, store, kitchen, din-

two] FOOCHOW 127
ing-room, nursery, and bed-room. You peer through the
dim doorway of a tiny temple to see an old man prostrat
ing himself before the dull glowing brass Buddha in the
smoky interior of the shrine. The Chinese are calloused,
prejudiced, and even cruel, if you like, but they are human
after all.
At the mission we found Mrs. Peak and Mr. Peak's
mother and half sister, Mrs. and Miss Hartwell. They
are all kindly earnest New England souls and made us
very welcome. We had tea and were glad to promise
that we would come back on Monday to visit the college.
Mr. Peak is also trying to persuade us to stay over for
ten days and take a houseboat trip with him up the north
branch of the Min River, but I'm afraid he won't suc
ceed. Before leaving for the consulate -where we dined to
night -we took a stroll with Mr. Peak through the streets
near the compound, and visited a Buddhist and a Taoist
temple. It gave us a good opportunity to compare them-
Buddhism rampant, and Taoism practically dormant in
China. The teachings of Confucius were essentially Util
itarian, capable of very successful application to political,
social, and moral questions, but containing little or noth
ing concerning the nature, origin, and destiny of the hu
man soul. This was left to the school of mystical phil
osophy called Taoism, originated by Lao-tsze, and first
introduced to China by his great disciple Thuang-Tze.
So much of magic, of demon worship, of profitless search
for the elixir of life, of dragons, thunders, and lightnings,
have been mixed with its later development, that it is
hard to disassociate all this from the simple ' ' Way. ' '
Lao-tsze 's creed was very simple, but so mystical that it
is hard for foreigners to understand. He taught that
there was a Tao, or " Way " or method of life and of do
ing all things ; that this was the best possible method, and
that by following it, man could assure himself of eternal
life. The sacerdotalism, which the philosophy of Lao-

128 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
tsze assailed, was akin to the Brahmanism of India at the
time of Buddha's appearance, and to that of Roman
Catholicism at the appearance of Luther. Taoism's prin
cipal tenet is that this ' ' Way ' ' exists and has always ex
isted, and that in it exist all living things. The Panthe
istic idea of this universal and unchangeable Essence, is
not better conveyed perhaps, than in these lines of Swin
burne I am that which began,
Out of me the years roll,
Out of me God and Man,
I am equal and whole.
God changes and Man, and the form of them bodily; I am the
Soul.
Foochow, Sunday, October 20. After an early break
fast we strolled down to the stone bund and took sampan -
stopping only long enough to pick out the prettiest of the
girls who offered themselves - and were sculled over to
the foot of Kulian Mountain. Our tiffin basket was
well garnished and carried by a mild youth, who under
took to guide us up to the Ku Shan Monastery, where we
had decided to spend a lazy Sunday. Our course lay
across a mile or so of flat land to the foot of the moun
tain. This land is all laid out in paddy fields, and a com
plete system of irrigation ditches, sluice gates, and min
iature falls, keeps it all under water, and makes the go
ing along the narrow intervening ridges, rather delicate
work. Water buff aloes - ridden and guided by little
naked boys -were plowing in some unplanted fields, and
others were wallowing in muddy pools or deep reaches of
a little stream. We gave them a wide berth, as though
quite tractable with the natives, they have the reputation
of making things very unpleasant for foreigners. The
ascent to the monastery itself, which is about two-thirds
of the way up the two thousand five hundred foot moun
tain, was made on a rough stone-stepped stairway, zig-

two] FOOCHOW . 129
zaggmg through the trees. Still somewhat tanned from
the cold winds of Mongolia, we found this a very moist
and breathless climb. We passed scores of coolies carry
ing bricks tied together and slung from each end of the
swaying Chinese carrying-pole. This pole, which rests
on one shoulder, enables the Chinese coolie, who here in
the south is not a man of extraordinary physique, to car
ry more than any other workman in the world. The
ascent to the monastery could not take them less than two
hours, yet I noticed many carrying twenty, and one chap
staggering along under twenty-six bricks. Of course
they are accustomed to the heat. Hundreds were coming
down empty-poled, women, boys, and even children form
ing part of the procession.
The monastery is a large rambling affair, built partly
on a little plateau which presents a level if small site, and
partly tucked away in nearby ravines. There are be
tween two and three hundred monks, many of them said
to be escaped criminals, but all whom we met were kind,
though curious. The monastery is wondrous well ap
pointed, and has the reputation of being very rich and
self-supporting. We poked about its courts and cloisters,
its cool shady pavilions overhanging ponds of sacred
carp, its storerooms, and bell towers all day long. There
is something dreamily delightful in the placid gilded
Buddhas, the droning chants, the whisper of the wind in
the palm trees, and the splash of a fountain in a quiet
court. We met everywhere with such courtesy and
friendly smiles that we were encouraged to be very curi
ous, in a mild way, and rambled about to our heart's con
tent. We stopped in a cloister to help some boys who
were eating fruit, and we fed the fishes in the carp pond
with rice cakes. A low wooden door and a narrow wind
ing stairs tempted us up into a brother's room, but we
were not permitted to lightly take our leave. Ah no, we
had to stay for a cup of tea and have our clothes ex
amined. Next we climbed up into the bell tower, and the

130 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
old bell-ringer grinned vapidly as we swung the great
carved wooden fish against the bronze gong and boomed
out a call to prayers. He was so impressed with the
sweet music which we had elicited, that he pressed tea,
liches, and melon seeds upon us. Next we strolled into
the open-sided dining pavilion, with its long low tables
and wooden trestles and heaped-up bowls of rice. Pres
ently another boom of the bell announced tiffin, and we
watched the monks file in. The droning grace which
the abbot, or father superior, intoned, and to which the
monks chanted responses, lasted for nearly ten minutes.
The kitchen, with its great caldrons of soups, stews, and
rice, and its dark smoked rafters, claimed our next atten
tion. Then the granary, then the hennery, and then an
other brother's room. This was a very small one, a mere
closet, with a shelf-like bed, a few books, and the inev
itable teapot. Last of all, we visited the stables, where a
few cows and useful donkeys are kept.
We took our own tiffin in the visitors' pavilion, beside
one of the large carp ponds. After tiffin, we and a couple
of young novitiate cronies, lolled in a cool sequestered
cloister over pipes and some books of verses - Sir Edwin
Arnold's Light of Asia and the Oxford Booh of English
Verse from which Gil read aloud. The old priests, who
occasionally passed us mumbling over their rosaries,
would stop and peer over our shoulders at the queerly
printed pages, titter childishly, and depart after raising
a withered hand to bless us : " Om mani padme hum "
which literally means, " Behold the jewelled lotus " but
which is used as a benediction wherever the Buddhist
creed holds sway. We watched a young bespectacled
clerk-like bonzee, checking loads and paying off the cool
ies. He had his abacus (counting board) at his side, and
kept the balls fairly flying across the wires as he made
his calculations. We had more tea with him, and then
started off to visit the distant treasure house. Resting
at a little stone pavilion to look down the foliage-choked

avoiiooo^ aAoav 'Aaaj.svNOj\[ Nvng n^j

FOOCHOW 133

gorge which it overhung, we saw an elderly Manchu lady
of refined and dignified presence coming down the moss-
grown stairway. She was followed by three very pretty
daughters or nieces -no tiny-footed stumbling here -and
we rose, swung off our battered panamas like Spanish
grandees, and offered them our stone slab as a seat.
They accepted with friendly smiles, and I presently had
the old lady gazing in awe-struck joy through my binocu
lars down upon distant Foochow. The girls could hardly
wait their turn to gaze through the infernal machine, and
I'm sure that if we could only have understood one an
other, things would have been going swimmingly by this
time. As it was, we had to limit ourselves to a few polite
phrases and the language of the eyes. It was with great
regret that we finally left the delightful old Ku Shan
monastery, where we felt that a stay of several days with
our gentle, shaven-polled friends would be all too short.
I had been doing some sleight-of-hand tricks for them just
before we took our departure, and I think they were gen
uinely sorry to see the last of their queer visitors.
The early evening we spent very quietly reading and
talking with Mr. Brocket, who was here at the time of
the French emeute, and later when Gil had turned in, I
went out for a stroll in the moonlight, and visited another
Chinese theater for an hour or so. The theater, stage
setting and acting were much the same as that we had
seen in Peking, smacking of Elizabethan times. Here I
picked up a chance English-speaking acquaintance and we
took a sampan and sculled about the river and up the
canals under queer old stone bridges, white in the full
moonlight. The native life among the crowded junks and
sampans was most interesting. My friend, Li Sung,
stopped at the junk of an acquaintance of his, and we
went aboard and had a cup of tea and some candy. The
family was in charming dishabille, but very hospitable.
Turned in about twelve-thirty.

134 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
Foochow, Monday, October 21. Since the mountain
wouldn't come to Mahomet, Mahomet had to go to the
mountain. We had done no shopping since we had been
in Foochow, so this morning as we stepped out on Mr.
Brocket's veranda after breakfast, we found it converted
into a bazaar. Fully a dozen merchants were squatting
amidst their wares, and brass and lacquer, china and silks
were laid out to the best advantage. Bargaining with
these apathetic Chinamen is a long process, demanding
much skill and patience. Your opening bid should be in
the nature of a friendly jest, to break the ice, and put
everybody at their ease, and his demand in reply is no
more of an indication of what he really expects to get.
We played with these people till ten o'clock, bargaining
for more than we bought, though we picked up one or two
little things that caught our eye.
At ten, we met Mr. Peak and Consul Wilder at the bank,
the former of whom was going to take us over to lunch
and to see the college and something more of the city it
self. It had been so quiet on the green island where the
foreigners live, and up at the Ku Shan Monastery on Sun
day, that it was almost like bursting into a blast furnace
when we plunged down from the last worn step of the
Bridge of a Thousand Ages into the seething mass of
humanity which crowded the streets. The viceroy of
Fuhkien Province, who rules nearly sixty millions of peo
ple, makes this his capital. He has four Taotais under
him, and there is only one in Shang-hai, yet practically no
foreigners come here except those who are interested in
trade or missions, or are in the consular or customs ser
vice. Residents say that they do not get half a dozen
pure tourists in a twelvemonth. When one thinks of the
hundreds who weekly are conducted to the sights of Can
ton, and the native quarter of Shang-hai, one feels like
saying " Thank God for that, for it is still as it always
has been." When we met other chairs at a particularly
narrow part of the street, our boys sometimes swung us

two] FOOCHOW 135
fairly into a shop to let them pass, and I remember once
being suspended for some moments over a simmering,
bubbling cauldron of sticky yellow stuff at a sidewalk res
taurant, and wondering whether they would call me a
ragout or a simple stew if the pole broke ! I imagine that
it is living in these intensely narrow choked streets, where
practically no fresh air comes in, that has tended as much
as anything else to make the south Chinaman so yellow.
After an hour or so of this fascinating travel, we were
whisked up a still narrower side street -the one we had
been on is one of the principal thoroughfares, forsooth -
to Dr. Kinnear's home. He and his wife, who is a trained
nurse, have lived here for thirty years and have been do
ing a remarkably useful and self-sacrificing work. They
made us very welcome and Dr. Kinnear took us through
an alley out into a little open common to see the Foochow
Baby Tower. Everyone of course has read of these hor
rible tombs, but I had a sort of feeling that they were a
relic of the past, and were really not used any more.
The structure is more like a well than a tower, being sunk
about fifty feet beneath the ground, and rising only about
six or seven feet above it. Near the top is a small open
ing through which the undesirable girl babies are dropped
by the poor and even sometimes by the well-to-do of
Foochow. In spite of the stench, I looked in. It was
nearly full! Although a certain amount of decomposi
tion thins them out, it doesn't take more than a few years
to fill one of these towers. This was a new one, the last
having been left as it was, no one being willing to clean
it out. A law has been passed to prevent the throwing
of live babies into the tower, but it is broken every day.
A couple of vultures, who had been disturbed from the
tower as we approached, were perched on a nearby tree ;
and a gaunt wolfish looking dog, who had been hungrily
nosing some of the mat wrappings in which the children
are brought, slunk off like a hyena. There was a row of
little wooden dolls, with pitifully painted smiles, around

136 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
the base of the tower. These had been placed here by
superstitious mothers and sisters to amuse the spirits of
the children until such time as they should be called to
take their place in the Buddhist heaven or hell. Alto
gether it was a pathetic and heart- wrenching sight. Our
way back took us past the edge of a cemetery, and here
under mat sheds, or lying carelessly about in the long
grass, were perhaps a hundred coffins, some of them al
most rotted away, and the object of considerable atten
tion from a score or more of prowling pariah dogs. They
were waiting till relatives and friends should have earned
enough money, or found a spot with sufficiently good
Fung Shui, in which to bury them.
Dr. H. N. Kinnear's hospital, which we next visited,
was only less interesting and more gruesome than what
we had already seen. We first passed through the wait
ing room, open to the street, and a veritable chamber of
horrors it was. People in all stages of decay (the Chin
ese are very prone to noxious skin and venereal diseases)
were sitting or lying on the floor. The operating room,
which is in reality another house, and a pretty dilapidated
one at that, was a pitiful spectacle. On one table lay a
leper, suffering from acute elephantiasis of the lower
leg, and on another a man who had just had his right eye
removed. On a third common deal table, was a poor wo
man who had been operated on for cancer of the stomach.
Although Dr. Kinnear is a very capable surgeon, and
most of his operations are successful, his appliances and
the knowledge of his assistants, are so elemental, that the
operating room naturally has not the clean orderly ap
pearance of a modern hospital at home. One large, but
low-roofed building, crowded with a dozen cots -all oc
cupied -was the ward. All the air and spaces between
the beds was being taken up by enquiring friends. It is
people like this -Dr. Kinnear and President Peak -labor
ing manfully over a useful work in a rich field, whom one
wants to help. I wish I were in a position to have helped

two]  FOOCHOW  137
more of the earnest and loving workers I have met out
here in the East.
We got another very warm welcome from Mrs. Peak,
Mrs. and Miss Hartwell, and the bright-faced children,
and had a pleasant tiffin party. Afterwards we went
over to the college and visited several of the classes. The
college owns its own land, and is prettily situated in a
wooded valley in the heart of the city. In addition to the
substantial brick and stone buildings of the compound,
where the teachers and the missionaries live, the college
has four or five large and very well equipped halls, and
some of the courts -palm and banyan shaded, and bright
with flowers and acacias -are very attractive. Banana
palms thrust their loaded arms almost into the very win
dows. There are about four hundred students in the col
lege, divided into eight classes, and the curriculum em
braces English (language, grammar, and composition),
history, geography, arithmetic, mathematics (as far as
solid geometry), psychology, physics, chemistry, botany,
astronomy, Chinese classics and literature in the original,
and a little manual training to which they are hoping to
add when they get more money. We visited several class
es, English reading, mental arithmetic (conducted by
Miss Emily Hartwell), chemistry, and geography, and
were greatly interested. There is hardly any skylarking
here, and much more attention to business than at home.
China, indeed, is the home of education, learning, and
culture being more highly regarded than anywhere else
in the world. One of the Chinese teachers, Mr. Ming,
went around with us for a while. He was extremely nice
looking, cultured, and pleasant, had been in America for
seven months some ten years ago, and spoke English
nearly as well as we do. As may be expected, the local
government is very much in sympathy with the institu
tion. Graduates of the college find no difficulty in getting
mercantile or political positions, and are very much
sought after.

138 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
Came on board this boat, the Amoy Maru, a cute little
tug of eight hundred tons, at six this evening. Our din
ner tonight was a hideous nightmare, being a supposed
Japanese attempt at a European meal. Brocket's itself
was none too good, but as we shall be in Formosa day
after tomorrow, and have learned to like real Japanese
food, we don't mind. We are booked to start at daylight
tomorrow, and the Straits of Formosa have a great rep
utation for storms and typhoons. The Jap officers seem
very cocky, and as I watched them bullying their Chinese
boys, I couldn't but remember an incident which Baker
had been an eye witness of, and which he told me about
the other day. The Japs are not only settling thickly in
southern China, as well as Manchuria and Korea, but
they are spying out the land and making charts of rivers
and maps of the country as if they owned it. (Indeed I
understand that Jap spies have been caught doing the
same thing on board our battleships in the Philippines, in
Java, Australia, and British India.) Many Chinamen
find that they can get better trading privileges by reg
istering as foreigners, and so go over to Formosa, take
out Japanese citizenship papers, and return to do busi
ness in their mother country as Japanese citizens. Some
months ago the Japanese consul in Foochow called a
meeting of all the Japs in the province. He at first or
dered all the Chinks among them to cut off their pigtails,
but on their insisting that if they did so, they would lose
' ' face ' ' and not be able to do any business with their
compatriots at all, he said: " Well, we'll let it go for
the present, because it really makes no difference. In
five years Fuhhien Province will belong to Japan, and
you'll all have to cut off your pigtails and wear kimonas
then." Rather significant, that.

two] ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 139
Ascent of Mount Morrison and a Trip through the
Savage Country of Southern Formosa
From Diary
Still rather disgruntled from the disappointment of
having to give up our proposed trip of exploration and
tiger-hunting into Manchuria, with Straight, Dick, and
Captain Reeves, Gil and I were browsing lazily in deep
armed chairs before Mr. Jamison's library fire in Peking.
I had Colquhoun's meaty tome The Mastery of the Pacific
across my knees, and my hair was slowly rising on my
head as I read his lurid account of the untamed head-
hunters of Formosa. I read one sentence aloud :
The savages, however, far from being subdued, have so far as
one can learn, been rather more troublesome of late years.
It was like waving a red rag at a bull, and Gil closed his
book with a bang. "Go on," he said, leaning forward
with that keen glitter in his eyes, which I knew meant that
he was already longing for fresh worlds to conquer.
" There will be plenty of time to assimilate the scanty
facts and meager, though thrilling account, which this
book gives, later," I observed. " The present point is,
where is it? "
"An island off the South China Coast, somewhere."
' ' Full of wild-eyed head hunters, the book says. ' '
"And primeval jungles and snakes! "
it Terra-incognita to tourist and globe trotter."
"When shall we start?"
' ' By the next boat. ' '
"Leaving?"' ' There is one tomorrow from Ching- wan- tao to Shang
hai." "We're off!"
We had a rough, but not unpleasant trip down to Shang
hai, on the little coasting steamer Kaiping. The captain,
chief officer, and chief engineer, were talkative Scots, and
we had four other interesting companions. The only

140 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
event of the trip was the picking up in mid-ocean, of a
small ship, whose propeller had been smashed in the same
typhoon which had rolled us out of our bunks the night
before. The sea was still running very high, and the first
small boat we put off, to take a cable across to the disabled
ship, was swamped, and two men drowned. The captain
was much chagrined when he found the ship was of the
same line as our own -the China Steam Navigation Com
pany -which meant there would be no salvage money for
him. We had a busy, pleasant two days in Shang-hai,
' ' doing ' ' a few sights, going through a silk factory, and
visiting friends; and then took another tramp steamer,
the Luksang, which, after threading her tortuous way
through the beautiful Archipelago fringing the southern
coast of China, 'neath smiling skies and over blue summer
seas, landed us in charming, gold-and-green Foochow.
Our three days' enforced halt here, until a six hundred
ton Japanese cargo vessel could bundle us over the For-
mosan Straits, was a precious windfall. Its beauties
No skald in song had told
No saga taught me
or in other words, not being a tourist stamping-ground,
it had never been " written up " in guide books. It was
virgin soil, and we felt, as we inspected the college, gazed
fearfully into the half-choked baby tower, poked about
the sleepy old Kushan Monastery, which clings like a
cliff-dweller's porch (did they have porches?) to the steep
rocky side of Kulian Mountain, and palanquined through
the crowded narrow streets, throbbing with the humming
population of the third city of China, that Mr. Cook and
men of his ilk had never herded their hundreds over its
greasy paving stones.
Diana heralded us into the " Beautiful Isle," and cast
her silvery veil over the shimmering waters of the bay,
the sentinel peaks that guard it, and the dark jungle-clad
hills behind, which seemed to hide we knew not what
of mystery and adventure. Like knight errants, we

two] ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 141

stepped ashore, eager to flash our maiden explorers'
swords in a land, most of which had never been traversed
by white people. No finger-posts told us where to go,
there were no " Sights," a year or two ago I might have
said, no railways, but already Japanese energy and enter
prise were handing on their own gift of western civili
zation to this, the youngest colony. Things were primi
tive enough, however, to suit even such carping critics as
Gil and I had already become. And now for a few hard,
unromantic facts culled from ex-U.S. Consul Davidson's
comprehensive volume on the island and its people.
Formosa -the Beautiful Isle -has been the battle
ground for the contending powers of Holland, Portugal,
Spain, China, and Japan, since early in the sixteenth cen
tury, but passed definitely into the hands of the latter by
the Treaty of Shimoneseki in 1895. The Dutch were
driven out by the notorious Chinese free-lance and naval
hero Koxinga, in the middle of the seventeenth century.
It lies off the coast of Fuhkien Province, China. The is
land is two hundred and sixty miles long, and about
sixty broad. The Aboriginees are of two distinct races -
the Pepuans, who now inhabit the low cultivated western
half, a Mongoloid people supposed to have migrated in
early days from China, Borneo, Java, or the Philippines ;
and the head-hunters (several distinct tribes) some sixty
thousand of whom are left, and have never been driven
from their jungle fastnesses among the high mountains
and precipitous cliffs of the eastern shore. These lat
ter are distinctly Aryans, and had their origin long ago,
either in the Philippines or the Malay Archipelago, a fact
which the absolute ignorance of modern geographers and
anthropologists concerning them has left still unsettled.
The Japanese have completed (except for a gap of about
ten miles where service is maintained by a temporary
man-propelled trolley system) a railway, connecting the
northern capital, Taipeh, with the southern, Tainan. The
port towns are Keelung, Tam-sui (where we landed), An-

142 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
ping, and Takao. The trade, entirely in the hands of
Japanese coasting steamers and Chinese junks, is, ex
ports: mainly green tea, camphor (seven-eighths of the
world's supply comes from Formosa), skins, and tin,
though there is abundant unexploited timber wealth;
imports are : rice, hemp, cotton goods, opium, and tobacco.
Well, after a few lazy days of drinking the waters of
Lethe at Hokuto, a Japanese health-resort, where we
splashed in warm waterfalls and played with the chil
dren, we donned collars and ties and paid a call of cour
tesy and queries upon our pleasant consul, Mr. Julian
Arnold and his wife - to whom we had letters from mu
tual friends in Peking (Haskins and McCormick) and
messages from Baker, of Foochow. A day's outing to
gether made us quite chummy with him, and on Friday, at
tiffin, he made us the proposal to go with him and Mrs.
Arnold and Irving Hall (Harvard, '04) on their consular
tour of explorations, to study the natural resources of the
country, and the opportunities for development. The first
part of this trip comprised a two week's tramp through
the head hunters' country of southern Formosa, an ascent
of Mount Morrison the highest mountain in the Japanese
empire, and a visit to the head office of the Fugita Lumber
Company, situate in the heart of the magnificent red
wood forests on Ari San [mountain]. It was for this
first part that we were invited. Now as the wildest
dreams of our young lives had really soared no higher
than penetrating as far as one of the frontier block
houses, whence a glimpse of Mount Morrison (Ni Taka
Yama-new highest mountain) might be obtained, and
something seen of the gentle head-hunters, it did not take
us long to give expression to a rapturous assent to his
offer. On the morning of Saturday, October twenty-sixth,
therefore, we packed sweaters, heavy socks, and a few
other necessaries, in my great canvas duffle-bag, and
leaving the rest of our baggage in charge of the obliging

two] ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 143
manager of the Shotoyen Inn, we left Hokuto, and ran up
to Diatote (Taipeh), a short six miles by rail.
We put up at a very comfortable inn at the capital (the
Choiyungo, where they give you wonderful little cache
with your tea) and spent the day in buying such needful
things as blankets, oiled paper, ivaraje [straw sandals],
and chocolate, and helping the Arnolds pack. My experi
ence in outfitting hunting trips in Canada and New Bruns
wick enabled me to discourage Mrs. Arnold from taking
the whole of the vast number of tins of meat, soup, vegeta
bles, etc., which were arrayed upon the consulate floor,
and we finally got things all boxed, or sacked, and neatly
tabulated in a note-book for re-packing later.
Half past five of a cold drizzly Sunday found our little
party busy at the railway station checking our eighteen
pieces of baggage, provisions, and a box with the two
little terriers, " Peanuts " and " Doosybus." Hall, had
in addition to his three large wicker baskets of clothes and
blankets, a bag of books, but they all proved useful later.
Our young interpreter, Mr. Immamura, over- slept and
had to catch a later train, but none of us realized then
what a blessing it was to be without him for one whole
delightful day. Mr. Nagao, however, chief of the Public
Works Department, and a most kind and courteous gen
tleman, was with us as long as we were on the train (his
destination was Tainan -still further south) and we were
a most jolly party, if a bit sleepy at first. The monotony
of the long day's ride was happily broken by frequent
attacks upon the A's ample tiffin basket and the numerous
changes we had to make. First, into a narrow-gauge road
through some hills, and then into a so-called trolley line
for about ten miles, where the railroad was not yet com
pleted. It consisted of box seats on little flat cars which
were pushed over temporary tracks by flying coolies, and
was quite exciting at the corners and down grades. This
is the universal form of trolley on the island.
The scenery all day was entertaining and, to Gil and me,

144  EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol.
novel. The constantly ascending mountains towering
away to the eastward, in the foreground the foothills with
their great palms, frondes, ferns, bamboo forests, vines
and creepers forming an almost tropical jungle over
growth (in fact some time in the afternoon we did pass
into the tropics), while to the west was a narrow strip
of flat cultivated land and then the sea.
At four we reached Toroku and after a few moments
wild confusion, managed with kind police assistance to
arrive, bag and baggage, at an inn. Here the officials
met us, and after tea and a bath, we worked out our daily
itinerary through them (Arnold and Hall speak Pekin
ese as well as the Foochow dialect) cutting it down so
as to enable Hall, Gil, and me to get back in time to catch
the Hong Kong boat on the tenth. Immamura arrived
during the evening and after a Japanese supper and a
stroll, we turned in very tired.
In the morning we found we had to take the train back
a little distance to Rinai, a small place with no hotel, but
where there is a trolley going a little way into the interior.
The hotel people said the first train left at six, so we ap
peared ready at the station a few minutes beforehand on
cool, dewy, Monday morning only to find that it had gone
at five, forty-five and the next one didn't leave till nine,
forty-five. We had planned for two days work to-day
and this was a bad beginner, but we had to make the best
of matters and took a stroll to help kill time. We visited
a slaughter house and were surprised at the cleanness
of the Chinese methods. Then the others took to their
books while I taught Mrs. Arnold piquet on the station
platform, till the nine, forty-five for Rinai appeared.
The trolley ride from Rinai to Rinkiho (about nine
miles inland) was interesting but very warm. We ar
rived about one to learn that the twenty or thirty coolies
whom the police were to have ready for us had been al
lowed to go because we had not arrived by the first train
as we telephoned. The police said it was useless to go

two]  ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON  145
further to-day as it would take a long while for us to
get ready -to re-adjust our big bundles to sizes which
the coolies could handle, to get tiffin, to find coolies, etc.,
while the road was so long that we should not arrive until
long after dark. This is the regular Japanese point of
view; if any difficulty presents itself they must slowly
and carefully straighten it out before they go on ; time is
no object, and they have no conception of pushing on in
the face of obstacles or springing into the breach and
patching matters up the best way you can. I verily be
lieve that if we had submitted to their verdict then, the
whole trip would have taken four or five days longer, but
our first display here of American energy made a tremen
dous effect and afterwards they were quite willing to
hurry whenever we wanted. Mr. Immamura was about
as silly and useless as he could be, but Arnold finally made
the police understand that if they would please get some
coolies we would be ready to start as soon as they, and we
didn't care when we got there so long as we weren't
delayed till tomorrow. Mrs. Arnold and I made some
soup of beef extract, tea and toast, and this with pum-
aloes and sweet chocolate constituted our lunch. While
we were doing this the others were making the necessary
changes in our luggage, and at about half past two the
coolies appeared. We tied on our waraje, tabi, and gaiters ;
thanked the police and took their pictures in a group
(which always tickles the Japs) and set out. I bought,
for two cents, a great straw coolie hat, as the sun was
hot and I had no helmet.
The first hour and a half was level, a little track Tun
ing through paddy and tea fields, but quite near the jun
gle-covered hills. Only thirty-four per cent of Formosa
is cultivatable but on it is grown the finest green tea in
the world. The terraced paddy fields are irrigated by
little canals into which water is pumped by tread-mills.
About three we had a thunderstorm which freshened and
cooled the air. At four we stopped for a moment for

146 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
tea at a police station and then turned sharply into the
hills, leaving behind us for good and all the cultivated
lowlands of the west coast. The whole world seemed
changed the moment we had penetrated into the mys
terious gloom of the forest. Great creepers swung down
from the trees like snakes, or caught at our feet as they
writhed across the trail, the sword grass cut our hands
as we caught at it in steep places, vines hung down and
brushed our faces and the broken sunlight seemed to
populate the thick rich depths on either side of us with
strange wild creatures. We carried Mrs. Arnold over
many streams, some more than waist-deep, we scrambled
up little cliffs and over great logs, we came upon villages in
the clearings and dodged the water-buffalo, who, hating
foreigners, would have charged us, and finally a little be
fore six we arrived at another station. The beautiful
tropical night descended suddenly upon us here, and the
stars seen through the dark outlines of the tall betel-nut
palms made a new and beautiful effect. We had to wait
so long, however, for the rest of the party, the cook, cool
ies and Lu, to catch up, that our policeman guide began
to fear they were lost and sent out men with torches to
search. They had in fact taken some wrong track, prob
ably at the last village, and were not brought in until seven-
thirty. The circumstance reminded me of an episode in
Mongolia, when we were also separated from cook, pro
visions, bedding, and baggage, only in that case it had
been by a snowstorm and for two days.
Well, we started on again by flaring torchlight (the
torches are made by saturating a sort of wood pulp with
kerosene and putting it in a hollow bamboo rod). The
remainder of the journey was most picturesque, being
up a steep and roaring river bed. It was a very painful
process for me, as shortly after starting I lost both my
waraje and had to go the rest of the distance over a very
sharp and stony trail in my tabi (stocking feet). Luck
ily we didn't have to ford the stream much. I shall

two] ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 147
never forget some of the pictures the torches revealed
that night; the heavily laden coolies crawling along the
narrow path built in a cliff with a waterfall roaring below,
or some of the party crossing a narrow bridge of saplings
that swayed at every step. It was ten o'clock when we
arrived at Gueonroka (one thousand five hundred feet)
the police station where we were to stop, and we were
dead tired though it is only called eighteen miles from
Rinkiho. By the time we had a hot bath, a change,
and dinner was ready, it was midnight, so that we didn't
turn in till one, with our sore feet, full stomachs, and
contented souls. Full moon.
After such a tiresome day we decided to sleep late so
it was nine o'clock before we had finished our porridge,
bacon, and coffee and were ready for business. The trail
started with a will, and led us up, up through a thick over
growth which kept out any breath of cool air, for a pant
ing dripping twelve hundred feet or so (by aneroid),
and then, after a brief halt to cool and enjoy the view, we
had to plunge right down again till we reached the bottom
of a beautiful valley which lay on the other side. This
valley at first reminded me of the Doone Valley. It was
narrow, shut in by high, steep, densely wooded hills and
had a beautiful stream running through it ; but presently
it turned and debouched into another and much broader
valley where the river bed was wide and stony and the
sun very hot. All morning the track lay up the course
of this stream, and as our feet were still puffed and sore
from our first experience with tabi and waraje the day
before, the going was very painful. It was a pleasant re
lief to cool them by walking along for a time in the stream.
We stopped at twelve-thirty beside the stream and cooked
tiffin -how good the cold pumaloes tasted! We peeled
them and held them for a while in running water. After
tiffin things were a little smoother -the rocks got bigger
and didn't hurt so much -while about three we left the
river bed and plunged bravely up a hill. On we went, top-

148 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
ping rise after rise through a beautiful jungle growth, till
our twenty-fifth mile and four, forty-five o'clock in the
afternoon brought us to the lonely police station of Nama-
kama (two thousand eight hundred feet). Here we could
really begin to see the high mountains towering ahead of
us, and here too, our savage coolies met us, for this is the
frontier post of the savage country and no Chinaman can
be induced to enter its dark and mysterious depths. In
fact we tried to bribe one of our Chinese coolies to ac
company us for the rest of the trip in the capacity of
cook's assistant (Lu being utterly worn out at the end
of every day and absolutely useless during the entire
trip) but in vain.
As we approached the station the savages, about fifty
men, women, and children, who were all of the one tribe
called the Namakama Ban (tribe) living part in a village
close by and part at one called Tumpo we passed later, re
garded us in sullen silence. Although they had never
seen any white people before there was no talking, whis
pering, laughing, pointing, or even exclamations. They
were before strangers and on their mettle; later we got
more chummy. There had been two policemen with us
so far besides Lieutenant Kobiyashi, sub-prefect of Tomku
Province, and two more were to join us here ; one a splen
did looking savage of this same tribe, and the other a
man who had been up Nitakayamma (Mount Morrison) on
two of the earlier Japanese expeditions. These five
(most excellent, kind and courteous men) were with us
during the entire trip, and three more with some savages
had been sent ahead a couple of days to make a path
for us, put wires on the steep places and build sapling
bridges, etc.
A word about the savages. They are a fine, strong race
with no signs of disease about them at all as have the
Chinese and Pepuans living along the coast, but their
arms and legs showed numerous scars. Four of the
strongest men used to take turns carrying Mrs. Arnold on

two] ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 149
a little shelf arrangement, and I have seen one of them,
old ' ' Ariman ' ' take her for an hour and a half up and
down places so steep we could hardly get up with the help
of a wire or creeper. They wore a sort of hide coat (and
some of them overalls of hide), the rest of their costume
consisted of a few bright colored cloths, beads, and bone
necklaces and the ever-present sword, slung under the
left arm. As the coat and also the tight fitting hide hat
was usually left off when working, they presented the ap
pearance, especially from the rear, of being practically
naked. The soles of their feet and the skin of their
legs are so tough that I've never seen any scratches that
drew blood. Their hair is long and black and matted,
their eyes dark, and their skin coppery. Their teeth are
very white. While on the trail, their fare seems to con
sist almost entirely of a sort of white grain which they
boil in a big kettle into a pasty mass something like farina,
scooping out big chunks with their hands to eat. In the
villages, however, they have besides, yams, sweet pota
toes, venison, fruit, and nuts. They seem to have little
or no religion though we passed several strange, simple
little shrines. Davidson in his book says they have a sort
of simple nature-worship-each village worshipping a
spirit supposed to dwell in some great rock or tree. The
women and girls are very affectionate and playful -I
was struck on first seeing them with the graceful way
in which they sat or stood watching us, with their arras
about each other. Some of the girls have the finest car
riage and swinging walk I've ever seen. They carry
loads proportionate to their strength -very big for girls
they seemed to me, and work generally as hard but not
harder than the men. They are no drudges. Of course
these savages cannot begin to carry the dead weight a
Chinese coolie can on his carrying stick -they carry with
the tump fine like the North American Indians -but they
can go on trails the Chinaman can't, can go much faster
and of course are natural born woodmen.

150 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
The old custom of marriage by capture, which anthro
pology teaches us all nations and peoples employed in
their primitive state, is still in vogue among these savage
tribes in a modified form. The young braves, friends, and
relations of the bridegroom go to the house of the bride
upon a mutually prearranged night and carry her off.
Resistance is offered by her family and a formal battle
undertaken. Should any blood be drawn in this rather
stagey affair, it is taken as a good omen. It is interest
ing to compare this with our own custom of throwing old
shoes and rice after the departing couple, for good luck,
a survival of the old barbaric ceremony.
We entertained as many of the officers at dinner as we
had extra knives, forks, and plates for (as we had done
also the night before), and had the rest for breakfast.
Later in the evening as we were redividing and repack
ing our stores and baggage for the convenience of the
savages, two splendid looking fellows stopped in front of
the lighted doorway and made us low and graceful bows.
Half in light and half in shadow they looked very formid
able. We caught a gleam from their murderous looking
sword-blades. The blade is only about eighteen inches
long, but very heavy and combines in use the sword, knife,
ax, and hatchet (the wooden sheath only covers one side-
metal strips holding it in place on the other) and over
their shoulders were slung the net bags in which they
used to triumphantly carry home the heads of their foes -
trophies of the hunt ; now, however, the bags are used to
carry any and everything. Although these southern
tribes have been nominally quiet for several years, there
is often more or less trouble and bad blood between
themselves, and only last year a decapitated Chinaman
was found within a hundred yards of this station. We
saw several human skulls, among those of wild boar and
monkey and other trophies of the chase, piled in rows on
shelves in a hut set aside for the purpose in every village
of the savages, which we visited.

two] ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 151
The next morning we saw a very interesting sight.
Money is, of course, of no use and therefore has no value
in the jungle, so our tribe was lined up by the police, each
had his load assigned, and then they were paid in the
presents we had had brought up for them - yards of colored
cloths, sashes, shirts, grain, and rice. They had been
given some great cans of diluted sake the night before,
and we arranged to have some more brought to Hosha,
the place where they were to leave us, so that all should
be in good spirits at the parting. Poor as these presents
were (they only cost some sixty-five yen, altogether) they
delighted the tribe, who started off with a will.
The trail wound almost immediately down the sheer
side of a narrow gorge, whose foaming river we forded,
and which joined the main river valley we had been in
yesterday. As we toiled up the other side, the back
trail presented a striking and barbaric appearance; our
wild looking followers in their gaudy garments, and the
lack of them, bending under their loads but hurrying
down the steep track of the romantic gorge as swiftly
and surely as leopards. Gradually we worked away
and down from the bluff or plateau we were upon,
down to the level of the main river valley. We didn't
stay here long, however, but soon turned up a tribu
tary valley, dark, as the sun hadn't yet gotten in there,
and up this we defiled all morning. About noon we
turned into still another side valley, the path leading us
through a dense growth of jungle grass above the river
bed, and gradually worked up more and more steeply
till we came out upon the little village of Tumpo (four
thousand two hundred) situated upon a bluff about five
hundred feet above the river. Here we had tiffin, both
our own people and the village savages crowding around
the cook as he worked over his little clay stoves, in a way
which made me sympathize most heartily with him, for
the smoke of an open fire is bad enough in itself when one
is cooking. This cook, by the way, was a remarkable

152 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
man; every day he did as hard work as the rest of us,
tramping over the rough trails, fording streams, scram
bling up the steep places, packing and unpacking the pro
visions and his pots and pans; the first man up in the
morning and the last man to bed at night, but in addition
to all this, whenever we struck camp or stopped for tiffin,
it meant a rest for us, but his real work just began. I
really believe that man was busy all the time we were
out, and yet he was always ready with his smile and
seldom lost his temper.
After tiffin we had a steep pull up a sheer hill which
towered above the village. The sun was hot, the trail
hardly worthy the name and we found it stiff work. In
breasting a slope like this the savages give tongue like a
pack of wolves. Some old man will throw back his head
and send out a couple of booming cries like the beginning
of a wild chant, and the man or woman next ahead will
take it up and so it will work up and down the line, besides
individual exhibitions on the side.
At one time Gil and I got entirely off the trail and
tried to work up the sheer and slippery (because of loose
stones, and lack of foot and hand holds) face of a land
slide. Finally we could go no further. I was nearer the
edge of it and managed to work my way across to the
jungle and so to the trail, but Gil was stuck and had to be
rescued by a savage.
At about six thousand two hundred feet we found a
little level spot and from here the trail wound along the
steep shady side of the hills for a mile or so and then
plunged straight down to the river again. It was not the
same river we had left, however, but still another tribu
tary. A great dark pool with suds of foam tempted
Hall, Arnold, and me for a plunge, and we all agreed it
was one of the finest things we had ever done.
Four- thirty found us at Laka Laka (four thousand
eight hundred feet) in the rain, which proved to be simply
a place sufficiently level to put up a few huts. There were

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ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 155

tremendous boulders scattered about as we were still in the
river bottom with the mountains rising about two thou
sand feet sheer on either hand, with a patch of sky in the
middle. The tall jungle grass had to be cut away, but
everyone turned to with a will and we put up a piece of
canvas the police had provided us with, as a tent. Din
ner was cooked and eaten under difficulties that evening,
and as it continued to rain all night and our shelter
leaked most wretchedly we all got pretty wet. Morning
showed no signs of clearing, and as the river had risen
considerably our police guides advised us not to go on, as
we might get caught in that narrow valley by a danger
ous flood. We found, however, after breakfast, that
there was another savage village in the hills above us, and
here we decided to go and spend the day, as it would prob
ably be rain-proof, comfortable and more interesting than
rather desolate Laka Laka. Accordingly Arnold, Gil, and
I set out with Kobiyashi and a couple of guides to explore
and see if it would be a suitable place for Mrs. Arnold.
The trail was the steepest and narrowest we had yet been
on and the growth so thick that we couldn't see ten feet
ahead. It made me realize the difficulties the Japs must
have experienced in trying to conquer the island -and
our troops in the Philippines must have had, I imagine,
much the same sort of conditions to contend with - impass
able jungles defended by a cunning and unseen foe. I
should hate to have had to lead an expedition against
that village. A couple of men with rifles (and not
only have the savages plenty of rifles smuggled in by
the Chinese who, hating the Japs, are only too glad to
make trouble for them, but they are splendid sharp
shooters) or even with long spears could keep a young
army at bay, selecting some point on the trail where a
misstep or a touch from a spear, making one lose one's
balance, would mean a fall of a couple of hundred feet.
A half hour's scramble through the rain brought us to the
level cleared place where the village was situated, some

156 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
dozen houses and sheds altogether. They were dry,
there were fires, plenty of room to move about in and a
spring near by, so Arnold and Kobiyashi went down to
bring up Mrs. A., Hall and the baggage, while Gil and I,
after being crowned with chaplets of marigolds by the
young bucks, went in and squatted around the fire in the
main house and were regaled with huge baked sweet pota
toes and nuts.
Although it cleared off towards noon, we all felt that
this was too good a chance to study the savages, and spent
the whole day loafing and poking about the village. Our
own savages (after bringing up our luggage and pro
visions) and the policeman staid down below, so that we
had this new Laka Laka band all to ourselves, and our
kindly sympathetic treatment of them was so different
from what they were accustomed to from the Japs, that
they thawed out and blossomed like the rose. Their curi
osity concerning and delight in such things as kodaks,
binoculars, the process of shaving, watches, etc., was child
like. Their hospitality, generosity, and good humor, un
flagging. Mr. and Mrs. A. had a fine, large, dry shed in
which we rigged up the tent and Mrs. A. 's cot, and Hall, Gil,
and I with Lu, and the cook slept in another. They were
constantly giving us little presents of fruit, flowers, nuts,
and potatoes, and we in turn gave them safety pins, which
they pinned on and wore as a sort of badge of honor,
handkerchiefs, and towels, and also doctored up all the
bad cuts and sores which were brought to Gil and me as
doctors of the party. A couple of them took me off into
the woods and showed me how they made charcoal, by
smothering with wet grasses and reeds a fire made of
acacia saplings burned down to a bed of coals. Gil tabu
lated quite a list of words which we gleaned from them,
with their meanings, during the course of the day.
Gil, Hall, and I took a hand at beating up their grain in
to flour in the peculiar pestle and mortar-like grist mill,
which the women and girls operate. The women do most

3

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ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 159
of the housework though the men are the hewers of wood
and drawers of water, and of course supply the larder
by hunting. We bought a chunk of smoked venison from
them besides a couple of chickens. That evening as we
sat or lay about our fire after dinner, the whole village
came and squatted around in the darkness. To amuse
them Gil and I sang songs for over an hour -rollicking
college choruses, soft negro melodies, and quaint love
songs of long ago. It was fun to see their childish de
light and how they would join in some of the more catchy
refrains. When we left the next morning it was only
after many courteous and hearty invitations to surely
come up and stop with them again on our way back. So
much for the Savage Head-hunters.
The track down to the river again seemed even steeper
than that by which we had come up, and where the trail
joined we found those of our party, who had not come up
for their loads, awaiting us. It was a glorious day
and I think we all enjoyed this morning's tramp thorough
ly and physically. Our day's rest had put us in fine fet
tle and Hall, Gil, and I, with Sergeant Humpo, and half
a score of savages, went on ahead at a fine swinging pace.
We simply followed the bed of the stream up, leaping
from rock to rock and constantly fording its swift cur
rent. In these cases the dogs had to be carried as they
were unable to breast it, and we once nearly lost them
over a fall. The gorge up which we were working was
beautiful, the stream came down so steeply that it was
practically nothing but a succession of waterfalls and
pools, and being in such fine trim we found as the morn
ing grew warmer that we could drink as deeply as we
wished from these cold, sparkling basins without its seem
ing to effect our wind in the least. Sometimes the river
would fill the entire width of its bed and we would have
to take to the steep jungle covered slopes, scramble over
great logs or crawl along the face of a great cliff, using

160 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
cracks and minute rocky projections as footholds ; or else
it would go plunging down in quite a considerable fall, or
go foaming through an impassable bit of rocky gorge and
we would have to scramble up and around as best we
could. Some of these steepest places had been wired, or
the loose end of a creeper hung conveniently down from
a tree by the pathmaking party two days in advance of
us, but even with these helps we found it difficult and ex
citing work. The way the natives with their loads, and
especially the savage carrying Mrs. Arnold, came up these
places was marvelous.
We had gotten an early start this morning, six-fifteen,
and so stopped for tiffin at eleven-thirty. The stream by
this time was only about two feet across and was coming
down almost perpendicularly in a series of leaps and ter
races, so that there being no wide, or level place where
we stopped, we looked like a party camped on a long nar
row flight of stairs. Almost immediately after tiffin the
trail left the stream and started straight up one of the
bordering mountains. The trail was steep, narrow, slip
pery, and dangerous, in almost any place a false step
meant disaster, and one had to be steady and cool not to
take that step. Sometimes a couple of saplings, lashed
together, would be thrown across a narrow gorge or tied
along the face of a cliff. It was on one of these latter sort
of half bridges, that a girl just in front of me slipped on
the wet sapling and lost her balance. One foot went over
the edge and her load slipping off her forehead, dropped
some fifty or sixy feet on to the tree tops below. Just at
this minute I grabbed her shoulder, not having yet set
foot on the causeway, and luckily, having a firm foothold,
jerked her back to where I was. She immediately
dropped to her knees and began whimpering, partly
frightened, I suppose, and partly afraid that she would
be punished for losing her load, for she peered down over
the edge and evidently wanted to try and go after it. One
of the policemen, however, held her back and sent an

two] ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 161
active lad down who recovered it intact in about twenty
minutes. About three o'clock, we suddenly came up to a level
spot, a sort of high tableland, grass, rocks, and great
gnarled pines, reminding me very much of some high Alp
in Switzerland. Crossing this (the most level spot we
had found since leaving Rinkiho), we found a cold spring
in a fine grove of old twisted evergreens on the farther
edge of the little plateau. The natives called the place
Hotzugon, and here it was decided to camp and make our
dash up Nitakayama on the morrow, since it rose from
the range of mountains of which this plateau was a part.
The glass registered nine thousand two hundred feet, and
it was bitter cold, but the savages put up a substantial
hut for us in a sheltered place, and the cook had plenty
of time to bake hot biscuits and gave us a fine hearty sup
per. The hut was small, but as the wind whistled through
it in a way which made us think of Lieutenant Peary and
his troubles, we felt that we should be warmer if crowded
so Mr. and Mrs. Arnold packed themselves into one end
and hung a sheet down the middle as we had done at Laka
Laka, and the other three of us squeezed in at our end,
which was open to the night blast. The land was lumpy,
stony, and cut on the bias, but we slept like lords, and as
the dogs nosed their way into our blankets, I expect they
helped to keep us warm.
It was just getting daylight and the frost lay white
over the wiry heather-like grass, when the cook (who was
going to stay in camp that day with Lu and all but a few
picked savages) announced breakfast. In that clear,
early mountain air everything stood out clear-cut as a
cameo, and we felt that we had seldom been in a grander
or more beautiful spot. The browns and dull greens of
the grass and heather, the brighter greens and dark boles
of our friendly old pine grove, the bright golden light
of the morning, the clear blue and cloudless heavens, the
deep valley falling sheer away on either hand from the

162 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
small plateau of our encampment, the great rocky peaks
rising grandly all about with lordly Nitakayama, which
we now saw for the first time towering over all, to say
nothing of our wild barbaric followers in their skins
crouching about the fires, combine to make a scene unique
and strikingly grand. The crisp, cold mountain air was
like a tonic, and the glory of what lay about us acting as
a sort of inspiration, we set out at a fine pace to climb
the highest thing in sight.
The policemen and savages who had gone ahead ' ' to
make our way straight ' ' had waited for us here at Hotzu
gon, and one of these savages, an old man, blind of one
eye, but of splendid physique, had gone about two-thirds
up the peak yesterday and blazed a way for us. He led
the way for us this morning, " The Pathfinder " we called
him, and the rest of our party consisted of our seven
policemen, the Chinese soldier (who had joined us two
days earlier), four stalwart savages to alternate carrying
Mrs. A. and a couple more to help them in carrying our
tiffin and some bottles of water, which was made into light
loads. The trail first crossed the tableland, dipped across a
shallow valley, and then for several miles struck along
the steep side of a mountain which had been recently
burnt over. Finally we plunged down five or six hun
dred feet to a river bed which we followed up abruptly,
leaping from rock to rock and getting such slippery foot
holds as we could, till it brought us to the base of the
mountain mass proper, from which rose the three peaks
of Nitakayama. Here we found the dried-up course of a
small tributary stream, and followed it up as best we
could. After half an hour or so the blazes left this
stream bed, and turned up the steeply wooded side of the
mountain. This presently grew so very steep that it was
a marvel how the trees could grow on its rocky side, but
grow they did and thickly, giving us welcome shade, for
the sun was well up by now, and affording us splendid

two] ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 163
foot and hand-holds. And truly during the next hour we
used our hands and arms far more than feet and legs,
practically pulling ourselves up after our guide. This
brought us in due time out into the open, and we toiled
up through a sort of stubble grass, recently burnt over,
and affording fine foot-holds, but under a blazing sun.
Half an hour of this brought us to some woodland where
we found a cold and welcome spring, and where the glass
registered eleven thousand feet. Here also we found a
quantity of wintergreen leaves and blossoms, but no ber
ries. These woods lasted only a couple of hundred feet
higher and were mostly live oaks and dwarf pines, then
we came out on the bare rocks, steep, shaly, and forming
a sort of narrow crest or spine leading up to the peak,
which towered ahead of us in full view. On either hand,
but especially on the side opposite to that which we had
come up, it fell away in great precipices thousands of feet
sheer to the narrow valley below.
We scrambled up the remaining fifteen hundred feet to
the summit of our peak (a couple of hundred feet lower
than the highest, but as there was no connection between
the two it would take a couple of days more to fix a trail
and climb to it) and reached it in the following order:
the guide, Arnold, I, Hall, Mr. Immamura, a savage, Gil,
etc. We found a brass ship's bell on the cairn of rocks
which had been left there by the Japanese expedition of
the preceding year, and this we rang vigorously to en
courage Mrs. A. who was half a mile or so behind us.
Hall and Gil were somewhat affected by the altitude (the
highest ever reached by any of us, thirteen thousand five
hundred and forty feet) and developed severe headaches.
The view was glorious ; a sea of mountain peaks, many of
them nearly as high as we, lay all about us ; I had had no
idea the island contained so much highlands, or in fact
was cast in so large a mould. While it was still clear (it
clouded over before we left), we could see the ocean to the
east and the Formosa Straits to the west. Mount Morri-

164 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
son lies almost in the middle of the island, which is here
about sixty miles wide. We lighted a fire in a sheltered
place and I heated up three tins of corned beef and some
boiled potatoes in a frying pan, which made a most pal
atable hash; we also had crackers, chocolate, and puma-
loe, which we washed down with Tansan and claret. My
binoculars were in constant demand from twelve-thirty
till two o'clock in the afternoon (the time we were upon
the summit), when, having left our names in a bottle in
the cairn, we started down again.
The going down was a deal more difficult business than
the going up, though not, of course, such hard work phys
ically. We had no ropes that day as we should have had,
and found the picking of footholds down some of the
sheer drops risky work enough. Once, I remember, as
we were slowly taking turns down a bad place, Mrs. Ar
nold was just ahead of me and at the foot of it, I was
nearly down, Arnold behind me, and Gil just at the top,
when the latter suddenly started a large loose stone with
his foot. It plunged past Arnold, missed me, and struck
the wooden shelf on which Mrs. A. was sitting within a
few inches of her head, glanced off and went bounding and
crashing down far out of sight and sound. Luckily old
Ariman who was carrying her, had both good foot and
hand holds at the time; he never quivered an eyelash or
said a word, but seeing that there were no more stones
coming, went quietly on down.
The sun was behind the mountains when we reached the
river bottom, so we made our best speed here, up the hill
side and across the steep burnt slopes, where we all felt
so tired that we found it hard to keep our balance. The
clouds also swooped down upon us so that we travelled
through a sort of misty wetness. There was no sword
grass here, but if you put your hand on to the high bank
beside you to steady yourself you were pretty sure to
strike thorns or nettles. Night was setting in as we filed
heavily into camp, worn out but thoroughly satisfied with

'The Trail took us on up the river valley"

Mount Morrison

 ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON  167
the glorious day's achievement. A good stiff drink all
round, and a hot and bounteous supper restored us to
heart once more, and we sang a few songs around the fire
before turning in.
I was very loath to leave this beautiful spot next morn
ing ; it had a peculiar charm of narrow surroundings and
broad outlook which I can not hope to describe ; but after
we had fairly dropped over the edge of the plateau and
were hurrying along the steep down trail, I found myself
shouting gleefully with the savages and sending on the
marching chant as it passed me to their great amusement.
We all seemed to feel remarkably fit and sure-footed this
morning, leaping down from rock to rock and from tuft
to tuft with never a slip, and often plunged along at a
headlong pace where the interlaced grasses prevented our
seeing where to step, but always landing catfooted and
safe. We certainly made remarkable time that morning,
passing the place where we had had tiffin coming up in
an hour after leaving Hotzugon, and reaching Laka Laka
shortly before twelve (four hours and a half) ; and yet I
do not think we missed any of the splendor of the morn
ing, or the wild beauty of the narrow valley down which
we were racing. This going in a different direction in
fact revealed new charms, hidden or unnoticed before,
and besides, we remembered all the old places, and the
spots where this or that had happened coming up.
It had been our plan to go up to our village and spend
the night there as we had promised our hospitable friends,
but a savage met us half way, bringing a message from
his superior to Sub-prefect Kobiyashi, saying that there
had recently been, since we left, fresh disturbances in the
northern and central provinces; that it was feared this
tribe might be affected and they, therefore, thought it
safer for us to leave their territory as soon as possible.
We accordingly had tiffin, and Arnold and I a swim at
Laka Laka, and then pushed on up, over and down the

168  EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol.
steep mountain behind Tumpo, and arrived there about
four o'clock to spend the night.
A couple of special huts were run up for us, but this
village was not quite so clean as the other; there were
pigs and chickens sleeping next to us and things generally
looked slack. Here, however, we first began to do a little
trading, and Gil and I each got hold of a sword and a
wooden belt, with which the young bucks lace themselves
tightly, thereby causing themselves to look even more
' ' chesty ' ' than they are. Here also we procured a
couple more chickens which proved a welcome addition to
our larder. Immamura whom we dubbed "Stephen"
among ourselves because of his total lack of sense, man
ners, heart, and usefulness, had fallen into the pernicious
habit of eating first all he could at the policemen's mess,
which being simpler was ready first, and then coming over
and " chowing " with us. It being the Mikado's birth
day that night we sent over some tins of meat and a
couple of bottles of wine to Kobiyashi and the policemen,
with our very best wishes.
We got an early start in the morning, wound down the
first river valley into the second, and then crossing the
stream, where Gil had a slight misadventure, worked our
way up over a spur of the hills and so crossed into the
main valley where the station of Namakama was, coming
down to the river level at the village of Hosha (three
thousand two hundred feet). This is considerably far
ther up the valley than the junction of this with the one
we had left. The village of Hosha is just on the border
of the Namakama Ban's territory and here, accordingly,
they were to leave us, as there had been bad blood former
ly between them and the Hosha Ban, who were to see us
safe on the rest of our trip. As they entered this village
of their ancient foes, our men at once ceased all their
laughter and talk, their easy familiarity with us, and as
sumed their stolid dignity; their faces became calm and
expressionless, and, after depositing their loads in the

two] ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 169

open place in the centre of the village, they all went and
sat down by themselves at one side. The young braves
of the Hosha Ban were lolling in proud but graceful ease
on the raised platform of the largest house, which, having
no walls and being centrally situated, commanded the
entire village. They were many of them crowned with
ehaplets of flowers, and seemed a finer set of men both as
to looks and physique - taller, more lithe, and keener-
looking fellows. They looked coldly upon our party as
it filed in, but when we broached four or five big cans of
sake as a final treat for our men, some of our leaders
went forward with their full bamboo goblets and shared
them with the braves of the Hosha Ban, so that they were
presently all drinking together. It was a strange sight
to see two grizzled old warriors, the Namakamas with
their beads, and the Hosha 's with their eagle's feathers
fastened to their hide hats, drinking cheek to cheek from
the same cup. After tiffin the loads were redistributed
and we bade farewell to our loyal friends. After arrang
ing with the police to give them slips of paper entitling
them to some seventy-five yen worth of cloths, shirts, etc.
as Koomsha, and paying over this sum to the police who
agreed to arrange the matter for us, we set out with the
Hosha Ban, our objective point being Mount Ari and the
Fugita Lumber Company, which Arnold had been asked
to visit.
The trail took us straight on up the beautiful river
valley, and as the sun was warm, pool after pool tempted
us to stop and plunge in. We kept on however, till four-
thirty when we decided to camp (three thousand eight
hundred feet) . We were rewarded by finding a splendid
great pool here, in which we four refreshed and disported
ourselves, while the savages cleared ground and built
our huts, and the cook prepared supper. Gil and I sat
around the savage fires until what was quite a late hour
for us (we had been turning in as a rule soon after din
ner) listening to their songs, for these Hoshas proved to

170 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
be distinctly a musical tribe. They were much more good
natured and full of fun and jokes among themselves too,
though also more sophisticated than the Namakamas.
Several of the men spoke Chinese, and one of the girls
(and a very pretty one by- the- way, with a splendid car
riage) had picked up a little Japanese lullaby, at one of
her visits to the posts, I suppose. We slept well that
night, in spite of a spit of rain, and were off betimes in
the morning. Gil, Hall, and I raced on ahead with some
of the young bucks, the trail following up the course of
the river till it became a mere brook, across which one
could step. Here we waited for the rest of the party and
then all turned and plunged into the thick woods and up
the steep side of a mountain. From this time till the end
of the third day we were in the woods constantly, and a
more beautiful forest country I have never seen. It com
bined the thick tangle of undergrowth, the ferns, frondes,
palms, giant creepers, and grape vines, great swinging or
chids, and rich blossoms of all sorts - the beauty and lux
uriance of the tropic jungle -with the splendid trees of
the northern woods, great pines, cedars, live oaks, oaks,
redwoods, and ash. The trail was very steep for the,
next three hours, but the woods were so beautiful with
the sunlight filtering through and great orchids hanging
down in mid air, that we were constantly tempted to stop
and enjoy it more, and this kept us fresh and enthusiastic.
The trail was so narrow that often there was but one
place to put your feet, a rock or tuft of grass, clinging to
the steep slope. Once Gil, just ahead of me, put his foot
on a rock like this, and had lifted the other foot to step
forward when the rock gave way and he suddenly shot
down some twenty or thirty feet. Luckily he went feet
first and caught on a tree before getting very far, so that
he was able to scramble up again none the worse for his
little experience. He said afterwards that it gave him
the sensation of starting suddenly down from the top of
a high office building in an elevator!

two] ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 171
About noon, finding a little spring and a spot sufficient
ly wide for us all to find seats, we decided to have cold
tiffin as quickly as we could, and then hurry on over Ari
San to the Fugita Company's establishment, where we
knew a fine hot bath would be waiting for us. According
ly we stowed away cold boiled potatoes, crackers, jam,
and chocolate and after a pull at our pipes or cigarettes
set out again.
Although we had risen considerably since morning, the
work had not been consistent, now up, now down, or round
the side of a hill, so that we had crossed several peaks
and now found ourselves once more in the midst of a very
mountainous country, but far better timbered than that
about Nitakayama. After tiffin, however, the trail went
abruptly up for a long hour and a half, as hard a pull as
we had had at any time, and finally brought us out of the
woods to the bare grass-covered summit of Ari San, where
the glass registered eight thousand five hundred. Here
we found a couple of great pools of water and all rested
for an hour or so, sprawling about in the heather and en
joying our tobacco. We distributed among the savages
a case of cheap cigarettes which we brought along, hoping
they would prove of more value than they did for trading
purposes. We had scarcely gone half a mile from our resting
place, the path sloping gently down from the summit,
when we were met by a party sent out by Mr. Goto, head
of the Fugita Company's forestry department, to welcome
us. They brought tea, which they now proceeded to make
over a fire, cakes, candy, and cigarettes, so we sat down
again for another little rest and refreshment. They then
led the way down to the company's buildings, and we soon
struck a good, made path two or three feet wide, by far
the best we had had since leaving Rinkiho, which led us
through a splendidly timbered country for three-quarters
of an hour or so to the Fugita Company's office. Mr.
Goto, himself, met us here, gave us some tea and a very

172 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
warm welcome. He explained the present situation and
plans of the company, and took us down to see the giant
redwoods, one of which is seventy feet in circumference.
They have about forty thousand acres of good timber land
and figure on about a billion feet of white pine and cedar,
and about the same of oak and redwood. A narrow
gauge railway which they are planning to build from
Kagi, the nearest station on the main island system, will
not be completed for four or five years, nor do they intend
to begin cutting before that time, although they expect to
be sounding the market, getting contracts, building camps,
and planning carefully their lumbering campaigns. The
place they are now located in is seven thousand five hun
dred feet above the sea, and as Kagi is practically at sea
level, the building of their private line will be seen to be
quite an undertaking.
We had a hot bath, and oh ! how good it did feel ! also
a table and chairs at which to operate upon the wonderful
dinner the cook served up. We were quartered in the
newly built hospital of the company, a comfortable build
ing of some four or five rooms. We slept like lords that
night and didn't get away till nine the next morning,
Arnold with some samples of wood which Mr. Goto, with
an eye to business, had given him. The road was splen
did, solid log bridges over all the streams, and for the
most part down hill, so that swinging along at a four mile
pace we covered about twenty-six miles altogether. All
day long we traveled through splendidly timbered moun
tain country, with little underbrush, the giant trees tower
ing up into a cloudless sky, but affording us in the cool
green depths below, a most comfortable shade. The
morning woods were beautiful -we were constantly get
ting vistas and glimpses, ever changing, down into the
deep narrow valleys below, or out into a broad, hazy plain.
There was water everywhere, pretty little brooks, pools,
cataracts, and the forest was alive with pheasant and
wood-cock which we were constantly putting up, and rich

"The Trail . . finally brought us out of
the woods to the bare grass-covered summit
of Ari San"

A Brave op the Hosha Ban

ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 175

with many colored flowers which glowed in the checkered
patches of sunlight. About twelve-thirty we came upon
a coolie rest house, belonging to the company, and here
stopped and had tiffin. The afternoon continued as beau
tiful as the morning had been, though in a different way.
Dark storm clouds began to roll up and envelope the tops
of the surrounding mountains. The valleys were half
filled with mists like great deep mountain lakes, and long
arms of it came writhing in through the giant trees above
us. The dark forest took on a new, mystic, and almost
terrible appearance ; looking back from near the front of
the line, our savages seemed uncanny, spirits hardly real
as they flitted through the trees on silent feet. Many pic
tures, clear and striking, of that afternoon remain fixed
in my memory, moments in some forest glade or widening
of the path, times when the trail wound round the edges
of a ravine and all, or nearly all, of the long line was vis
ible, twisting through the misty half darkness ; or else up
past a bit of clinging cliff or over a great log where only
two or three of the wild, steel girded figures were in sight.
Instead of beginning to go consistently down as we had
expected, we found ourselves working over more and
more wooded peaks and apparently getting no nearer to
the great seaboard plain where Kagi lay, our ultimate
goal. Shortly after four it began to rain, gently, mistily,
at first, but presently harder, pattering against the leaves
and causing us to hurry along, for our guide, a new police
man of this district, said we were almost to another
branch of the Fugita Company where we could spend the
night. About half past four, in fact, we came upon it, in
a level clearing, some four or five buildings, whose shelter
we very gladly sought. Mr. Goto had told us he would
be very glad if we would stop there. We accordingly had
another hot bath and added some Japanese " chow " to
both our evening and morning meals.
The altitude was still considerable (five thousand feet)
and we found it quite cold that night, especially Gil and

176 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
I, who had traded some of our blankets for swords, neck
laces, etc., which, however valuable they might have been
as hard-won curios, did not help to keep us warm. The
rain seemed to have washed everything clean and bright,
for the next day dawned clear and blue as befits weather
in the mountains. We got off early, as we expected a
long day ahead of us.
The trail at first took us up a hard thousand feet or
so over the top of one of the peaks which had shut us in
the night before. As we were resting in a little glade at
the top, our guide told us that from here there would be
practically nothing but down hill work to Kagi, which
caused us all considerable pleasure, for though the first
soreness and swelling caused by the new foot-gear had
worn off and our feet were getting hardened, still we all
had numerous cuts, scratches, bruises, festers, and blis
ters on our pedal extremities, which we were glad to ease
by going gently down hill on a good path.
We first followed the bed of a river down for an hour
or so, taking cooling draughts from occasional pools, and
then came suddenly upon a little Chinese village in a
clearing. It was the first we had seen for many a day
and told us we were fast approaching civilization and
the end of our journey. The great dark forest began to
change to light green groves of the slender and graceful
bamboo. We passed several more villages now, and be
gan to meet coolies on the path. About half past ten we
came upon a considerable Japanese and Chinese settle
ment, up in the hills three thousand eight hundred feet
above the sea, called Bamboo Head from its location on
the brow of a hill covered with a forest of bamboo. Here
a representative of the Fugita Company, who had been
telephoned to, met us and escorted us to their pretty little
branch office, built over-hanging the deep valley and com
manding a beautiful view. We were regaled with
tea, cakes, cigarettes, ginger ale, oranges, and bananas,
and here too, we decided to have tiffin as we found we

two] ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 177
were now only some eight miles or so from this end of a
trolley line belonging to the company, running to Kagi,
and which had arranged to take us and our baggage there
that afternoon. There was considerable delay about tif
fin, as the faithful old cook didn't put in an appearance
for about an hour and a half after the first of us arrived
at Bamboo Head. One of the savages had left his load,
a box of tins, which the cook, who always took a last look
around in the mornings, discovered after everyone else
had gone on and nobly undertook to carry himself. We
were quite worried about his nonappearance and wanted
to send some savages back, fearing he might have missed
the road at one of the villages, but it was a long time be
fore we could induce our interpreter ' ' Stephen ' ' to ar
range this for us, as he preferred taking his ease and his
tea with some of the Japanese in this office. At last, how
ever, all was right again, we had tiffin, and set on about
one o'clock after hearty thanks to our kind hosts.
A new and very energetic policeman joined us here,
with red cuffs, evidently determined to make a name for
himself in the short time he was to guide us through his
territory, from Bamboo Head to Kagi. He accordingly
set off at a terrible pace, Hall and I close behind and Gil
not far distant with the rest trailing. We went up a short
distance to the top of Bamboo Head Hill, and from there
it was a straight plunge down (under the hot afternoon
sun which beat in through the bamboo groves) about four
thousand feet to the great seaboard plain which we could
now plainly see, stretching out below us. Down we went,
practically running, the short legs of our sturdy little
leader seeming fairly to fly as he sprang down from rock
to rock. We did the whole in less than two hours, and
yet, with it all, got some splendid views of the mountains
we had left and of the great, rich fertile lowlands below.
It was, however, too fast a pace for a pleasure trip and we
missed much in our mad dash through those sunlit woods,
which a more leisurely mode of travel would have reward-

178 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
ed us with; also it made us very lame for sometime to
come -Gil and I both festering old sores, which eventual
ly deepened to abscesses and bothered us considerably.
At last we arrived breathless and drenched with perspira
tion at a little village actually on the great plain, and
here we regaled ourselves with fruit till the others caught
up. From here dates the beginning of what Gil and I
have since alluded to as the " Great Debauch," for not
having had as much fruit on the trip as we desired (very
little grew in the savage country) we arrived once more
in civilized parts, where it was easily to be had, with a
great craving, and this we foolishly proceeded to satisfy
during the next two days by eating such inordinate quan
tities of pumaloes and bananas that we quite lost our
taste for them for fully a month after. From here on
we had a fine, broad wagon road to the trolley, about three
miles, and our advance through the country and the Chin
ese villages (first the squad of about ten armed and uni
formed police, then we five Americans, and then the long
line of half naked savages, with their great knives slung
conveniently under the left arm-pit and all looking the
worse for our tattered ten days in the wilderness) was
somewhat in the nature of a triumphal progress.
The savages, keeping to the impenetrable jungle and
mountains and being an unconquered race (though now
they are becoming friendly with the Japs through trade)
are always an object of more or less terror to the peace
ful Chinese tillers of the soil, who never venture beyond
the lowlands. This the rascals knew full well, and it was
the delight of some of the gamesome young bucks ever
and anon to leap into the air with horrible cries and ges
tures as they flitted through some sleepy village, frighten
ing the women and children half to death and even send
ing the nerveless men scuttling back into their houses.
Nor would the policemen interfere but considered it a
good joke, as indeed did all the tribe; and nothing more
was meant by it. However, it gave one an inkling of

two] ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 179
what their tigerish mode of attack would be, if once the
dogs of war should be unchained.
We arrived at the village where the trolley began in
due season, and after being handsomely entertained with
tea and cakes by heavily bearded local officials and bid
ding a fond farewell to our tried friends of the Hosha
Ban, many of whom, as with the Namakamas, we had
come really to know, understand, and like, we embarked
with our goods and chattels and a goodly store of puma
loes and bananas upon the dinky little trolley of the kind
ly Fugita Company for a last wild coolie-helped dash to
Kagi. We enjoyed this ride through tea plantations and
rice fields. The sun sank behind a palm fringed hill in
mild glory, the clear blue sky shaded into purest amber in
the west, which gradually faded to a pale lemon color.
Twilight and sunset glow is only of a few minutes dura
tion in the tropics; night stole swiftly and softly down
upon us. The evening star twinkled out, and presently
the whole heavens were ablaze with light -Cereus spark
ling cold in blue and green flashes of diamond light, Al-
debaran in crimson fury and all the rest of the brilliant
host. Soon too the slender crescent moon, low-hung in
pale graceful glory, showed above the palm trees. By
this time we were in Kagi, however, and took proud jin-
rikishas to the hotel, scorning to foot it longer ; and what
a hotel! Kagi is quite an important place in Formosa,
and the hotel large, new, and with every comfort and con
venience in the best Japanese style from electric lights
down. How good the tea and little cakes tasted; cold
beer seemed to hit the right spot too, and oh how welcome
the hot bath was, and the rub down we got afterwards !
We had invited the five policemen who had not already
started back to their posts with the savages, to a banquet
with us that night, also Mr. Isam, the representative of
the Fugita Company in Kagi. Mrs. Arnold dined alone
on European fare, but the four of us and ' ' Stephen ' '
made a jolly little company of eleven, who sat down cross-

180  EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol.
legged on our futans and pitched into the innumerable
dishes placed before us on the diminutive lacquered tables.
It was an Ichi ban A No. 1 affair, for we had telephoned
on ahead, per Stephen, to have it especially arranged for.
The sake was brought in early to make things tf go," and
we were soon pledging each other and politely passing
around our sake cups. Presently Kobiyashi, Humpo, and
the others would leave their places to come and sit down
beside or opposite one of us, and while offering us their
warm, brimming goblets, tell us, through ' ' Stephen ' ' or
Mr. Isam, how much they admired our pedestrial powers
and our strange but energetic desire to undertake such a
trip. We told them in return how much we had appre
ciated having such splendid fellows with us, how much we
felt indebted to them for all they had done to make mat
ters easy and comfortable for all of us, especially Mrs.
Arnold. They spoke in high terms of Mrs. Arnold's
spirit and mountain climbing abilities, and toasted her
frequently as the first lady to set foot on Mount Morrison.
They promised that the next expedition to climb Nita
kayama should take up an American flag and leave it on
top in honor of our ascent. We told them how much we
respected them for the good work they did there on the
borders of a wild and savage land, and for the dangers
and excitement of their lonely lives. Later we had geisha
dances and all the policemen waxed quite mellow, so that
we broke up the closest of friends ; and this merry party
at the end served to leave us pleasant memories of the
whole trip, and especially of these, our hardy companions
of many a stiff day's march.
Mr. and Mrs. Arnold, in continuing their six weeks trip
about the island, were going to take the train for Tainan
the next afternoon where other friends were to meet
them. ' ' Stephen, ' ' they paid up and dismissed after the
banquet, expecting to be able to pick up an interpreter of
some use in Tainan. Hall, Gil, and I, anxious now to get
to Hong Kong as soon as possible, took the early train

two] ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 181
next morning for Daitote, after profuse thanks and long
good-byes to the jolly Arnolds. Lu had regained a little
of his dignity and confidence and showed some slight signs
of life, when he heard there was to be no more walking,
that our crazy trip into the terrible mountains was really
over, and that we were once more headed for civilized
parts. He was delighted and I think not a little surprised
to find us all alive and well, now that he began to take
notice of things, and regarded himself both as a martyr
and a hero. Kobiyashi and the others were on the train
with us as far as Rinai, where we bade them God-speed on
their tramp back to their lonely jungle posts.
The long ride back (six in the morning to eight in the
evening) was a pleasant one, there was the scenery of this
picturesque island not yet too familiar to us, the break
of the trolley ride, reminiscences of the trip, Hall's libra
ry (I was deep in Anna Karenina) and frequent discus
sion of tea, cakes, rice, and fruit. We arrived at our
journey's end therefore (Friday night) not too tired, but
glad to be back at our good little Choi Yunga hotel.
The next day being King Edward's birthday (Satur
day, November ninth), we were entertained and treated
by the English residents, who duly marvelled and ex
claimed over our trip, which they frankly declared they
hadn't thought would succeed; "But then," as Consul
Chalmers put it, ' ' you Americans are so energetic ! No one
but Arnold would have pulled the thing off. ' ' Sunday Gil
and I embarked on the Dayin Maru for Hong Kong (via
Amoy and Swatow) after bidding farewell to Hall (de
tained by an unexpected increase in his tea business) and
other friends, and taking a long and affectionate leave of
Fair Formosa, the " Beautiful Isle."
In conclusion I should like to say this about the trip :
firstly that it was entirely successful, at least from Gil's
and my point of view. We had come to the island hop
ing to be able to see and learn something about this out-
of-the-way place, and, if possible, to penetrate as far as

182 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
some of the frontier posts and see a little of the savages
and their life, and also of the Japanese methods of han
dling them by trying to make friends of them and induce
them to get into the habit of coming to the posts to trade
and visit. Not only were we able to do all this, but we
penetrated far beyond the frontier into the confines of
the savage country itself, lived with the savages, ate, and
slept with them, visited their villages and got to know
them, with the opportunity of studying their customs and
mode of life at first hand and, so to speak, through a
microscope. We saw a great deal more of the island than
we had hoped, and besides all this, made the ascent of
Nitakayama, a rare event and one which we had never
dreamed of. The particular peak (thirteen thousand five
hundred and forty feet), second highest point on the
island, whose summit we reached, had been climbed the
preceding year by a Japanese party, and that is all. The
highest peak (thirteen thousand eight hundred feet) has
been climbed by one German party and two Japanese.
Two other expeditions, both English, set out to climb this
mountain but both failed. One from the Royal Geog
raphical Society on account of much bad weather, and
one under Captain Goodfellow because he, getting off
the trail into the jungle, stepped into a savage man trap
and was laid up for some time. Morrison, the young
British naval officer, who named the peak after himself,
never even undertook to climb it. He saw it from afar
off, outside the savage country, in the winter, when its
towering snow-clad summit reared itself in cold glitter
ing glory above the great mass of lesser peaks in the
mountainous central part of the island.
These facts are undoubtedly correct, since before the
Japanese occupation (by the treaty of Shimonoseki in
1895) and their partial subjection and partial establish
ment of friendly relations with the savages, no man had
even undertaken such a thing, the Chinese caring nothing
for mountain climbing and moreover being mortally

two] ASCENT OF MOUNT MORRISON 183
afraid of these untamed denizens of the highlands. And
since the Japanese occupation and exploration of the
island, no expedition has started without their knowledge,
consent, and invaluable aid in getting savages to act as
bearers - since no Chinese coolies can be made to under
take it : and the distance to the mountains being so great,
a considerable amount of provisions, blankets, etc. must
be taken. The climbing of the mountain itself we may
therefore consider a considerable achievement to say
nothing of the interest and pleasure of the trip.
Secondly: that we owe the opportunity as well as the
success of the trip to the four following factors :
First, that we happened to the island at exactly the
time we did, just as Arnold was about to set out upon this
expedition, for which he had been planning and arrang
ing for nearly a year.
Second, that we got to know him as quickly as we did
(through mutual friends, interests, etc.) and that he was
kind enough to ask us to accompany him.
Third, that we were shown so much kindness and got
so much valuable assistance everywhere; from the high
officials at Daitote (Mr. Mioshi, secretary of foreign af
fairs ; Mr. Nagao, director of public works, and others)
from the policemen and prefects through whose territory
we passed and who went with us, and the excellent work
of the savages themselves as guides, path- and hut-mak
ers, and porters. All this, of course, as far as Gil and I
were concerned, we had to thank Arnold for, his friend
ship with the Daitote officials, and his energy in pushing
things along in spite of delays and ' ' Stephen, ' ' and get
ting everyone working with him.
Fourth, the good weather we enjoyed. In a country
where lack of paths makes travel largely a matter of
river-beds, the question of long and steady rains is a vital
one. Also we had a splendid day with fine views on the
summit. For all these helping hands we are deeply grateful,

184 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
since they gave us an experience unique and never-to-be-
forgotten. A strange land and a strange people and the
opportunity to become familiar with both. What Japan
will eventually make of Formosa, I don't know; the coun
try is rich in many ways, agriculturally and minerally,
and they are doing a good work there; handing on the
best civilization to her of that which they learned from
the western nations. All the blessings of the railroad,
telegraph, broad clean streets, modern cities, a good sys
tem of roads, excellent police, courts of justice, schools,
sanitation, and trade are hers. Her tea and camphor
command a splendid market. Our hopes, therefore, for
thy glorious future, Oh fair Formosa, are as bright as
the memories we have taken away with us of our pleasant
sojourn on thy shores.

Batavia, December 6. . . No Europeans live in the
old city of Batavia, which, from the frightful mortality
of its early existence, is known as the " Graveyard of
Europeans." Staunton, who visited Batavia with Lord
McCartney's embassy in 1793, called it the most unwhole
some place in the universe. Its position in the midst
of the swamps was unhealthy, in the first place, and the
system of canals and low roofed, heavily built Dutch
houses which the Hollanders introduced, made the death
rate so appalling as to seem incredible. Dutch records
tell of eighty-seven thousand soldiers and sailors dying
in the Government Hospital between 1714 and 1776, and
of one million, one hundred and nineteen thousand, three
hundred and seventy-five dying at Batavia between 1730
and 1752, a period of twenty-two years.7 The banks, bus
iness offices, godowns, warehouses, and the shops of the
Chinese and Arab merchants, are in the old town, but the
Europeans leave it before the unhealthy vapors of even
ing arise, and betake themselves to Weltevreden, the new
7 See Sir Stamford Raffle 's History of Java, Appendix A.

two] BATAVIA 185
residential suburb. You drive up through the crowded
bazaars and streets, and along the line of the white canals
where children splash in and out of the water, women
beat the family linen, and men go* to and fro in tiny dug
out boats. "A strange travesty of the solemn canals of
the old country." Native life swarms along the streets
and canals of this part of the town, and it is a bright pic
ture which the gaily attired little folk present under the
betel-nut palms and bananas. The Javanese are the fin
est people of the Malay race, a people possessed of a civ
ilization, arts, and literature in that golden period before
the Mohammedan and European conquests. They are a
small, artistic people, the Italians of the tropics, and there
is more of inherent dream and calm here than in other
lands of the lotus. An elaborate system of native eti
quette is kept up, and the ' ' dodok ' ' or Javanese form of
respectful salutation is paid to the white man with the same
unquestioning loyalty as to their own native rulers. The
national costume is the sarong, or skirt, which is worn by
men and women alike. It consists of a strip of cotton
two yards long and one deep, which is drawn tightly
around the hips, with the fullness gathered in front, and
by an adroit twist made so firm that a belt is not neces
sary. The men wear, in addition, the ham hapala, a
square handkerchief tied about the head like a turban.
Both this and the sarong are of what is called batteh work,
patterned in curious designs that have been distinctive of
Java, time out of mind. The batteh also appears in the
slandang, or long shoulder scarf of the women, which used
to match the sarong and complete the native costume
when passed under the arms and crossed at the back. It
is still worn knotted over the mother's shoulder, as a
sling for a child, but its place as an upper garment has
been taken by the habaia, or long, thin, tight fitting jacket
of fancy pattern. Life is made very simple and easy for
these children of nature, rice, with a little curry, chili, or
pepper, and a bunch of bananas is all they require. The

186 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
Chinese are a great element in Java, and in all banks and
business houses are heard the rattling of the abacus of
these keen-eyed Chinese compradors. There are over
two hundred and fifty thousand of them in Netherlands
India, found mostly in the cities. When the Chinaman
gets to a foreign land, whose government, no matter how
rapacious, cannot squeeze him as his own did, he blossoms
out in a splendor which would make the hair stand up
right on the head of the tax collectors of China. His cos
tume is the first to go, and he adopts either the native cos
tume of the land, or a modified European one. His man
ners and mode of life alter materially, and the pigtail
shrinks to a mere symbolic wisp. Their Malay wives are
loaded with diamonds and jewels, their children are well
educated, and the sleek Celestial may be seen any after
noon driving up the Nordwijk in his victoria. The Dutch
government has several times attempted to prohibit
Chinese immigration, but somehow or other, in spite of
the massacre of 1740, in spite of the Exclusion Act of
1837, the Chinaman is there, daily gaining influence and
position. Batavia is a city of nearly one hundred and
fifty thousand, of which about a tenth are Europeans, and
about thirty thousand Chinese.
Weltevreden might be easily called the most beautiful
city of its kind in the world, and certainly earns the title
" Queen of the East," not because of any commanding
scenic location, or because of its extraordinarily fine
buildings, but because of its green parklike beauty, and
practical adaptation to tropical surroundings. The broad
avenues are lined with tall shady tamarind and waringen
trees, there are parks and open squares galore, and every
house is set back in its deep, cool, shady garden. The
houses themselves are mostly high, one-story bungalows
of stone, with marble floors, broad piazzas, and foun-
tained inner courts. The clubs and public buildings are
all of marble, and in keeping with the rest of the town.
Flowering trees, flowers, ferns, palms, and vines are

two] BATAVIA 187
everywhere, and the whole city seems like one perfect
park. The life led by the Dutch, which gives them two
days in every twenty-four hours, is also calculated to
avoid the tropic heat of noonday. One gets up between
six and six-thirty, and takes a cup of coffee and some
fruit, which is followed by a bath. Business men go to
their offices about seven, and have a nine o'clock break
fast brought there. Mere loafers like ourselves employ
the interval by a drive in the park or a stroll through the
native quarter -the interesting bazaars, and the passars,
bright with flowers and fruit. At twelve comes the riz-
taefel, a substantial dish which forms an ample tiffin in
itself. It is composed as follows : upon a substratum of
rice are heaped a variety of hashes, croquettes, vegeta
bles, salads, fish, shrimps, and other sea food, bits of
chicken, fruit, chutnies, chili, peppers, dried cocoanut,
banana fritters, etc., and over all is poured a thick pun
gent curry. After this formidable affair has been stowed
away, all Java takes its siesta. No half-way measures
here, but everyone goes to bed as deliberately as if it
were night. At half past three or four, one again rises,
has tea and fruit, and another bath, and begins another
day in the cool of the afternoon. Business is usually over
now, and the time is spent as one pleases till clubland
calls, or a concert or recreation at seven. Batavians dine
at nine, after which boulevard life, or calls, until the
eleven o'clock supper which precedes bed. But there are
other respect in which the life of the Dutch in Java dif
fers from that of the white man in India or other places
where British conventionality and social order hold sway.
The Dutchman does not waste his perspiration on tennis,
golf, polo, or cricket, or in any outdoor pastime more ex
citing than horse racing. He does not waste his sheckels
upon well ordered and expensive dinners, though he dines
late and dines elaborately ; but the great charm of the so
cial life in Batavia is her musicals. Most clubs run on
the British plan are owned and used exclusively by the

188 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
men. They form attractive centers for sport, social
gatherings, and congeniality, but they are an isolated part
of the community as a whole. In Java, on the other
hand, everyone enjoys the clubs. At any time of the day
you may find women and children in that part of the build
ing which is allotted to them, and at the bi-weekly concerts
of the Harmonie and Concordia clubs of Batavia, the wo
men and children are more in evidence than the men.
Batavia is not what may be called a show place. There
are very few sights : the park, the spiked skull of Peter
Elberfeld (the half-caste rebel against Dutch rule), the
old town hall, the Stadkirche and the Koenig's Plein,
which is the largest parade ground in the world and the
Museum of the Batavian Society of Arts and Sciences
which ranks among the best of the world, and is second
only to that of Calcutta and Cairo in the east. There is
a complete and wonderful exhibit of Javanese antiquities
and art works, of arms, weapons, implements, ornaments,
costumes, masks, basketry, textiles, musical instruments,
models of boats and houses, examples of fine old metal
work and of all the industries of these thrifty people.
The locked treasure room is heaped with gold shields,
helmets, thrones, boxes, heavily embroidered state um
brellas, salvers, betel and tobacco sets of gold, jeweled
daggers and krises of the finest blades patterned with
curious veinings. Tributes and gifts from native sultans
and princes display the precious metals in other curious
forms, and there is a fine large cocoa-de-mere, the fabled
twin-nut of the Seychelles palm, supposed to have been
grown on a mysterious isle of the sea gods. There are
rich ornaments, necklaces, earrings, headdresses, seals,
plates, and statuettes of gold and silver from the ruined
temples and the abandoned cities of middle Java. An
other room is filled with bronze weapons, bells, tripods,
censors, images and all the appurtenances of Buddhist
worship, which characterize the Greco-Buddhistic art.
A central hall is filled with bas-reliefs and statues from

two] DJOKJOKARTA 189
these ruins of famous Buddhist and Brahmanic temples,
in which the Egyptian and Assyrian suggestions give one
ideas to puzzle over in this far away tropical island. The
society has a valuable library of scientific and art publi
cations from all over the world, as well as rare old docu
ments. The consul room contains the state chairs of
native sovereigns, and portraits and souvenirs of the
great explorers and navigators who have passed this way
since the days of Captain Cook.
Although we met a great many men and one or two la
dies, we saw nothing of Batavian society beyond the mu
sicals at the clubs, and the informal Santa Claus carnival,
but it has the reputation of being very brilliant and
formal. Djokjokarta, December 11. . . Although the rule
of the Dutch, to judge from the present condition of the
country, is as successful from the Dutch point of view
as that of any other colonizer in the world, it presents no
future to the Javanese. There is no chance of their ever
securing any more freedom than they have at present. It
has not been Dutch policy to allow them to look forward
to a time when things will be different. Until within re
cent years they were not allowed even to learn Dutch, and
there were practically no schools on the island. No mis
sionaries were allowed to enter, and even now there are
very few workers in this large field. Not that the people
are ill treated nowadays ; in fact I have never seen a hap
pier or more completely provided-for peasantry in my
life. There are no beggars. They have enough to eat,
a comfortable house to live in and justice at the hands of
their rulers, but to all intents and purposes, the bulk of
the thirty millions of people who inhabit Java are the
slaves of some one hundred and fifty thousand whites. It
may be said for the Dutch, however, that their system is
as safe as any, in the long run. They are neither going
to the extreme of altruism, as we are in the Philippines

190 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
and Cuba, promising the people freedom, spending a
great deal of money upon insular improvements, and do
ing all we can to educate and uplift the Filipinos, nor are
they playing the dangerous middle-game that England
has been trying in India, giving the people all the benefits
of civilization, and in fact teaching the people to desire
liberty, without the hope of ever securing it. The Eng
lish are trying to substitute loyalty to the empire for the
love of freedom. It is still an open question whether the
peoples of tropical lands brought up in the lap of luxury,
without the energetic and self-reliant qualities which a
more vigorous clime brings out, are not destined to be al
ways ruled by a superior race. Those who advocate this
theory assert that its proper solution rests only in the
selection of the nations most suitable to do this govern
ing -those who will give their dependents the fairest and
best treatment. Spain, Portugal, and France have failed,
more or less ; England and Holland have succeeded, and
now Japan, Germany, and the United States are trying
their hands, each from a different point of view. Japan
is following England's lead, with the advantage of hav
ing no color problem to deal with. Germany uses her
colonies simply as trading centers and places for her rest
less sons to exhaust the energy which the fatherland is
not in need of, while the United States, with the pardon
able pride of a young country, is trying to bear the white
man's burden. The only present exception to the law of
the temperate zones ruling the tropics which I can think
of, is the little kingdom of Siam, and she is girt about
by hungry vultures. It was only England's manly gener
osity which prevented her being absorbed by France in
the comic-opera war of 1893.
Holland realizes, as well as anyone, the importance to
her of the vast wealth of Java. Without her East In
dian possessions, Holland would be almost impoverished.
She is therefore playing her game cautiously, intending
to allow no repetition of the Great Indian Mutiny to

two] DJOKJOKARTA 191
threaten her administration. As private enterprise
could not make the Java trade even what it had been,
and to what the Dutch hoped it would attain, Governor
Van den Bosch instituted in 1830 the so called ' ' Cul
ture System." This has become so famous that I shall
give an outline of its growth and method. The gov
ernor was granted power from the home government
to advance sufficient cash credits to private individuals
who would assist him in developing the sugar industry.
Sugar mills were erected and the government main
tained them and the colonists until, by the sales of
their products, they were enabled to repay the capital
and own their mills. The old national obligations which
the natives owed to their sultans were transferred to the
Dutch government, and the natives were obliged to plant
one-fifth of their land with sugar cane, which they sold
to the mills at fixed rates, and to give one day's labor
in seven to tending crops. The mill owners sold one-
third of the finished product to the government, paid back
each year one-tenth of the government's cash advanced
to them, in sugar, at the same rate, and were then free to
ship as their own venture the balance of their sugar to the
Netherlands Trading Company which held the monopoly
of transport and sale of government produce. Enormous
profits resulted to the government and mill owners from
the sales of such sugar in Europe, and during one pros
perous decade the crown of Holland enjoyed a revenue
amounting to more than five millions of dollars from Java
sugar alone. Actual slavery ceased in Java in 1859 by
royal edict, but the ' ' Culture System ' ' continued to work
with such success that the government decided to employ
the method on other crops. Great enthusiasm for Java
was aroused in Holland, and the best class of men were
secured as colonists: education, cultivation, and birth
were made essentials, and it was known that no absentee
ism would be tolerated. Those who came to Java, came
with the idea that they would give the best years of their

192 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
life to the work. By providing military bands, orches
tras, and subsidizing an opera, by establishing a library
and fostering the Museum of the Batavian Society, by
providing its officials with a purse for entertainment
and the encouraging of social life within the colonies,
the home government helped to make life very tolerable
in the far away tropics. Tea plants and seeds had been
brought in from Japan and China as early as 1826, but
their cultivation was not a success until the discovery of
the hybrid bush obtained by grafting the wild Assam tea
plant upon the Chinese plant. The rise of the coffee cul
ture, however, threw the tea trade into the background,
and coffee soon became " the pivot of the Netherlands'
colonial regime. ' ' In 1879, the year of the greatest produc
tion of the government plantations in Java, seventy-nine
thousand four hundred tons of coffee were shipped to
Europe. Indigo, cinnamon, pepper, cinchona, and cochi
neal were all grown by the natives in the same way, under
official supervision, and delivered to the government for a
trifling price. In contrast to the British in India and
the Chinese in Szechuen, the Dutch have always prohib
ited poppy culture in Java, although the natives are
greatly addicted to opium smoking. Salt works and tin
mines have always been profitable government monopo
lies. The ' ' Culture System " as an experiment in colonial
government and finance, proved one of the most perfect
successes the world has ever seen, as well to the island
and the people as to the colonists and the crown of Hol
land. Great stretches of jungle were cleared and brought
under cultivation, and more money was paid to the na
tives as wages than the natives paid to the government
in taxes. The Javanese acquired better homes, more
personal wealth, and improved in all the conditions of
living. The population increased enormously during the
fifty years that the culture system was in operation, and
the attention and envy of all the nations of Europe was

two]  DJOKJOKARTA  193
drawn to this new departure in colonial government. A
great deal of abuse was poured upon the system from
various sources, the abolition of slavery was forgotten,
and in editorials, speeches, books, pamphlets, and even
novels, the Dutch were spoken of as rapacious tyrants.
The sugar production began to fall gradually and Java
now ranks second to Cuba in this respect. In 1879, the
blight attacked Java, and one by one all the plantations of
the choice Arabian coffee trees were ruined. Only a few
of the tougher Liberian plants were proof against it. As
in Ceylon, many of the estates were burned over and
planted with tea, and the government began to lose its
grip upon the island. The opposition from the state's
general of Holland gradually got the upper hand, and it
was left to private enterprise and natural means to con
tinue the development of the island's resources. It is to
be regretted that the Achinese War swallowed up so
large a share of the system's profits so that less money
was spent on railways and public improvements than would
have been desired. Now that time has given men a saner
view of things, the culture system is seen to have been an
inspiration of genius, the fortunate epoch of the island's
existence. Even if its benefits were limited to the class
of men it sent to Java as colonists, the ideas of systematic
labor which is inculcated amongst the natives, and the
amount of waste jungle land which it cleared and culti
vated, its value would be incalculable. The Dutch did not
pose as philanthropic friends of the natives, they do not
come there preeminently to make their life more agree
able, and they are quite frank in stating that they regard
Java as existing for Holland's especial benefit; but, with
it all, they have given the Javanese better homes and bet
ter conditions to live in, and have nothing to fear for
their loyalty. If other countries in the tropics prove that
they are capable of ruling themselves, if they can keep up
with the march of events and give their people as happy
and well provided an existence as the Dutch do the Javan-

194 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
ese, it will be time to think of higher education. The
Dutch rule in Java may be epitomized as a perfect form
of paternalism.
D jok jo karta, December 17. . . The umbrellas, or pa-
jongs, which are carried abroad behind persons of conse
quence in this native principality to declare their rank,
are among the most unique and interesting sights of
Djokjokarta. There are twenty different styles of pa-
jongs which belong to this court, and they are the oldest
insignia of royalty in all the east, for we found them pic
tured on the walls of the Baruboedoer through all the cen
turies sculptured there. From the sultan's own golden
pajong with orange border, the gold bordered pajong of
the Crown Prince, the white pajong s of sultans and their
children, and of concubine's children, down to green, red,
pink, blue and black pajongs of the lesser officials and
nobles, all pajongs are exactly ordered by court heraldry.
Strange accompaniments these for a sultan who plays
billiards at the club, and a sultana who takes a hand at
bridge !
Batavia, December 20. . . Since starting on this trip I
have been as much interested in the dramas and drama
tic dancings, songs, etc., of the countries I have visited,
as in anything else, and in Java I have had the opportun
ity of seeing three different kinds of plays, several dances,
and of hearing a good deal of native music. The high
est type of dramatic entertainment in Java is the topang.
This is always delivered in Kawi, the classic language of
the country. It is a survival of the old court plays of
earlier days, and usually deals with historic or legendary
plots. The costumes which have been handed down for
generations, or modelled upon old ones, are said to be
absolutely correct, and are not the least interesting part
of the performance as showing how the Javanese of eight
or nine centuries ago, looked. Some companies of topang

two] BATAVIA 195
players which are kept up by rich men or princes, like the
sultan of Djokja and the Susunhan of Solo, own robes
and jewels of tremendous value. In the old days court
iers and men of the best families in the land composed
these companies, and Java is today practically the only
country in the world in which there is not the slightest
opprobrium attached to the stage.
All the Kawi books (which language is related closely
to Sanskrit and Pali) as well as the Indian Classic Myths,
the Ramayana and Mahabharata (known in Java as the
epics of Kandas and Tarvas), the Arjuna Vivaya, and
the Bharata Yuddha are familiar to the Javanese, through
their frequent presentations with Javanese settings and
names, in the more common wayang-wayang or shadow-
plays. Although there are many Boohs of Wisdom and
religious writings in Kawi literature, there has never
been the slightest attempt, so far as known, at religious
or morality plays in Java; sentimental and dramatic
poems, war tales in verse, and romantic chronicles of the
loves of imaginary princes and heroes supply the beauti
ful and graceful characters of the Javanese drama.
The lyrical dramas and stately dances form the most
classic and most refined presentations of the topang.
Wonderfully dressed women go through elaborate posture
dances with all the theatrical poses, sweeps, and ges
tures of devitalized arm and wrist. Dark-robed atten
dants (identical with the mutes of the Japanese drama)
crawl about upon the stage behind the principals, ar
ranging costumes and handing pajong and weapons as
needed. Heroes in gorgeous armor go through long
combats to slow music, graceful choruses dance, and there
are recitatives by the dalang or manager. The last act
is usually more or less sanguinary, when the hero, stripped
to the waist, fights furiously and skillfully in the old
style. Of course the plot is conventional, and the mythi
cal hero or demi-god invariably triumphs over all his
foes.

196 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
The common wayang-wayang of the people is a modifi
cation of the same thing, enforced by the stern dictates
of Islam. The Mohammedan creed forbade the representa
tion of the human figure, and the puppets had to be so
distorted that the priests could not possibly call them
human. Even then only their shadows are thrown on
a screen. Hence the exaggerated heads, beaks and noses
of the wooden and cardboard jumping-jacks which, pulled
by unseen hands, serve to entertain and interest the com
mon people in the national history and legends, and, by
preludes and lines in classic Kawi, preserve acquaintance
with the literary language. There is a form of wayang-
wayang half way between the puppet show and the real
drama, in which the actors show themselves, but wear dis
torted masks ; but the plays deal with modern times, are
usually comical farces given in the common dialect, and
the manager often improvises his lines as the play pro
gresses, to suit local conditions. With these popular
dramas there ranks the performance of the graceful bedaya
[dancing girl] , whose tightly folded sarong, floating scarf
ends, measured steps, outward sweep of the hand, and
charming play of arm and wrist, live again in the sculp
tures on the recording walls of the Baruboedoer. Passing
through a little village in the country one day, I came up
on one of these winsome ladies, dancing to the accompani
ment of her gamelan or native orchestra, in the midst
of a highly appreciative circle of peasants. She was an
extremely pretty, chic, and graceful bedaya, and I hope
the picture which I snapped will do justice to her and to
the scene.
The love of the drama in the form of the topang and
wayang-wayang, had become so ingrained in the very life
and breath of the people, that the Mohammedan con
querors decided not to suppress these popular national
amusements and customs, insisting simply upon a few
scrupulous modifications. The Dutch were also wise
enough never to interfere with these harmless and taste-

two] SINGAPORE 197

ful pleasures of the people, the greatest distraction and
delight of the sensitive, emotional, refined, and innately
aesthetic Javanese, who will sit through shadow plays half
the night, and are moved to frenzy and tears by the ro
mantic and martial exploits, and the tender love passages
of their national heroes.
Singapore, December 26. . . There are few towns of
equal importance in the world, whose mere street-life is
so interesting as this great commercial crossroad of
the world. There is no other port quite like it. Before
it was ceded to the British by the Sultan of Johore in
1819, there was, to be sure, a small Malay village of the
same name on nearly the same site as the modern city,
but it had to be built on stilts, for the country was a
swamp, almost impenetrable even to the natives, a breed
ing place of fever and disease, inhabited by snakes, insect
pests, wild beasts, and pirates, and unapproachable by
trading vessels. It is owing to the Pax Britannica, to
British energy and enterprise, that the nations of the
world may today safely do business in what was once one
of the most deadly corners of the world. It was built
primarily with the intention of attacking the Dutch trade
in the archipelago, and it ended the mercantile existence
of the flourishing Dutch port of Malacca. It has even
tually become a city of nearly two hundred thousand, the
capital of the Strait Settlements, and the mother of most
of the Federated Malay States (Penang, Province Welles-
ley, Perak, Selangor, Sungei Ujong, Negri Sembilan,
and Pahang). In the city itself the busy commercial
Chinese predominate almost to the exclusion of the lazy
pleasure-loving artistic Malays, who form the bulk of
the provincial population; but that small island, hang
ing from the tip of the Malay Peninsula, is as much of
an ethnographical exhibit, a Congress of Nations, as the
Midway Plaisance of a World's Fair. Japanese, Chinese,
Siamese, Malays, Javanese, Burmese, Cingalese, Tamils,

198 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
Sikhs, Parsees, Laskars, Malabars, Malagasy, Andaman-
ise, Arabs, and sailor folk of all coasts, Hindus, and
heathen of every caste and persuasion, are grouped in a
brilliant confusion of red, white, and brown patterned
drapery, and of black, brown, and yellow skins in her
streets. Behind them, sun-bleached and pallid, in pith
helmets and white clothes, are the English who have made
this wilderness a possible home for white men and the
representatives of other nations who are doing business
in this great mart. The Great Maidan (a Persian word
signifying an open place or park) where football, cricket,
tennis, and polo are played, the parks, the botanic gar
dens, the miles of excellent macadam roads, the palm
and tamarind fringed streets, the comfortable clubs with
their iced drinks, the large airy public buildings, and the
cool bungalows of the residents combine to make life
in Singapore very pleasant, and far different from the
perspiring, languid existence with which it is usually
credited. As the letters from here on are much more full and
detailed, there are correspondingly fewer extracts from
the diary used.
Calcutta, January 29, 1908. . . This is India, the
land of mystery, sadness, and romance. Mystery, because
one never knows what may happen in India, with its won
derful jugglers and fakirs, its terrible thugs and dacoits,
its astral bodies and sub-conscious beings, and its mighty
rajahs and princes. News travels here in strange unac
countable ways -secrets told in confidence behind closed
doors in southern India, become the common property
of the street bhistis in far northern Lahore the next day.
India is the home of secret societies and mystic brother
hoods, of the occult college of Pundits, and the dwelling-
place of many living incarnations of the Hindoo gods.
Sad, because the people never smile here; they are too

two] CALCUTTA 199
weighed down by the dread of famine, cholera, and plague.
The damp, heated air breathes fever and the jungles are
full of tigers, leopards, and deadly snakes, which yearly
kill off thousands of the people. Then, too, India cannot
forget that she was once the mightiest and most splendid
empire the world has ever known in the days when the
Great Moguls ruled half the east, while now she has be
come a mere dependancy of England. Romance, be
cause so much of India's great poetic past may still be
seen and enjoyed in her ruins, her splendid forts, palaces,
temples, and mausoleums. Because, too, so much of bar
baric splendor, pomp, and circumstance still clings to
the somewhat tattered robes of the native Indian nobility.
There are a good many of them, these princes, rajahs,
nizams, gaekwars, maharajahs, amirs, and heaven knows
what other outlandish titles -who still rule their own
semi-independent kingdoms. Some of the kingdoms are
pretty sizable little states too : Heyderabad, for instance,
is larger than Holland.
Calcutta, February 17. . . You can hardly pick up a
paper here in British India without reading an account
of some bomb-throwing, shooting affair, or mob outbreak.
The fact that these treasonable acts (for they are prac
tically all directed against Englishmen by Indians) are
not only so frequent but so widespread, would at first
blush lead one to suppose that nearly all of India was on
the verge of rebellion. But I think this is a great exag
geration. It is probably true enough that there is a
large and well organized revolutionary party eating like
a cancer through the body-politic of India. They col
lect and secret arms and ammunition, make bombs, hold
largely attended meetings, and even appear in print in
pamphlets and a few ill-conditioned papers. But though
widely scattered through southern and central India, they
are limited, geographically, and even more so racially.
Here again, as in China, is a country so large that the

200 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
thin hawk-faced talkative Hindoos of the south can not
properly be called country-men of the sturdy, bronzed
Buddhists of the northeast, nor yet of the fierce whis
kered fighting Sikhs i and Mohammedans of the northwest.
There are four main religions in India: Hinduism, Mo
hammedanism, Buddhism, and Parseeism, and ten or a
dozen small ones. There are thirty or forty native states
still existing, and the various peoples of the vast coun
try speak a hundred different languages and dialects.
The sun-descended Rajput princes of central India,
whose ancestors were too proud to allow their daughter
to marry the mighty Akbar, look down upon their Tamil
and Bengali co-religionists almost as much as upon the
Mohammedans. The fighting Gurkas of Nepal and
Bhutan would like nothing better than to cut the throat
of a cultured Hindustani whom they hate more than an
Englishman. That there will be trouble there seems lit
tle doubt, but as long as it is confined to the cowardly
though well-educated Babus it can be put down success
fully and provided that there is no half-way policy about
handling it. The viceroy ought to be given full power
and the right to sentence those caught red handed without
a civil trial : if necessary, have authority vested in some
military court or committee-of-public-safety. Nothing
appeals more forcibly to the oriental mind than prompt,
forceful action. If a malefactor is allowed to stand a
regular trial, with the long delays which it necessarily
involves, even if he is convicted in the end, it hardly
seems the same thing to them. They have lost sight of
the justice of the thing and see only pusillanimity. The
disaffection must not be allowed to spread, if England
intends to rule India along the lines which have guided
her policy since the days of the East India Company. Of
course England has a difficult part to play in the Far
East. Her ideas of colonial rule are different from those
of other nations. Her very altruism in giving the In
dians the greatest benefits of civilization is proving a

two] CALCUTTA 201
thorn in her side. In fact the education of the clever
Babus is a two-edged sword, and the bringing up of na
tive princes as English gentlemen is by no means an un
mixed blessing. Many of those young bloods are sent to
Eton or Harrow, and later to Oxford or Cambridge, and
while in England are treated as equals. They are wel
comed by society and the exclusive London clubs, enter
tained everywhere, and treated very graciously by the
British ladies. They speak of England as ' ' home ' ' and
are keen about English sports, manners, and mode of
life. All this is very attractive but does not fit them
for the life which their birth and environment intended
for them. When they come back to their own land they
are not put on the same footing by the Anglo-Indians.
Except at official functions the color line is pretty sharp
ly drawn. People you meet in Calcutta will say in speak
ing of some well-groomed young prince whom you may
meet at the races, ' ' Oh I dare say he may be quite right,
but I don't care to have my sister associate with a na
tive. ' ' The Indians naturally feel this, and those of them
who are not strong-minded and broad-minded enough to
see things in their proper light, accepting the status quo
and going quietly ahead to do the best they can for their
own little state, are apt to get bitter. They fall in with
a lower set of people, a cheap fast crowd of hangers-on,
who curry favor with them for pecuniary or political ad
vantage. Many of them drop down the ladder pretty
fast. Others fall into the hands of designing people and
get mixed up in intrigues against the government. That
means the end of them and often of their country, for
there are always tale-bearers ready to sell information
to the government officials. When she can, England is
very ready to let a native dynasty handle its own affairs,
as long as they justify their rule by doing as well or bet
ter by their people than England herself can do in those
provinces and presidencies that she immediately rules.
The Gaekwar of Baroda, for instance, is a very enlightened

202 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
and up-to-date ruler, and in the way of schools, roads,
sanitation, and famine administration is ahead even of
the provincial governors. But where things are neglec
ted, and the revenue wasted for the riotous pleasures of
the rajahs, the English resident gradually takes a larger
and larger share of control and ultimate absorption be
comes the goal. I have heard the opinion expressed that
the present outbreak of the Zakka Kheels on the north
west frontier is very significant, in that it shows that an
understanding has at last been reached by the Hindus
of the south and the Mohammedans of the north, and
that the latter are acting in concert with the Bengalis.
I have also heard it said that should this war prove at
all successful or require a large part of England's Indian
army to cope with it, a general uprising all over India will
be the result. Military men, however, say that this is all
tommy-rot, the two things are merely coincident. I think
myself that the Zakka Kheels may have been shrewd
enough to have chosen their opportunity for a little
lark (for fighting is their natural pastime) because they
knew things were rather unsettled in India, but do not
think there is any understanding between them and the
Bengalis. These and other tribes are always breaking
out in little wars and frays — " shows " as Tommy At
kins calls them -not because they find British overlordship
galling or because they expect to gain anything, but pure
ly from the love of the sport. They send their women,
children, and worldly goods to inaccessible fastnesses in
the hills, and have no end of a good time " snipeing"
the British soldiery and their Sikh or Afghan cousins.
They suffer very little from a ' ' war ' ' of this kind,
their mud villages are quickly rebuilt and when the Brit
ish get the upper hand (as they always do -trained as
their troops are to this sort of fighting), they come in and
manage to get very fair terms from their conquerors. I
spoke to Colonel Dunlap-Smith and Captain Denham
White about the chances of my going up there with one of

two] BENARES 203
the regiments and seeing something of the fighting, but
they seemed confident it couldn't be done, even if I posed
as a correspondent for some home paper. Only a couple
of English pressman accompanied the party and no
guests went at all to this " week end war."
Benares, February 19. Hindoo, as well as Mohamme
dan women of the better class, never permit their faces to
be seen by men. The hard working coolie and peasant
women are, of course, not so particular. They are all,
however, fond of bright colors in their dress, and go
flaming by in scarlets, oranges, purples, greens, and blues
which fairly startle one. Nearly all wear brass, or silver
bracelets and anklets, which clash faintly as they pass.
. . . What has interested me fully as much as the won
derful bathing and burning ghats at Benares have been the
gods, the nautch dancers, and the jugglers. There are ap
parently a great many gods, incarnations of Vishnu,
Krishna, or Shiva, alive and worshiped today in India, and
Benares is the best place to find them. These people are
Brahmins who have become so exceedingly good and
holy that one of the gods has consented to come down
and dwell in their bodies for a time. The Hindoo believes
this as firmly as we believe that Christ lived on our little
world as the son of a carpenter nineteen centuries ago.
They not only believe in many gods, but they believe that
each of their gods has the power to assume as many
different shapes or incarnations as he chooses. These
gods, of course, do not consider themselves bound by the
same limitations as we ordinary beings, for they believe
there is something of the divine spark in their souls. I
have certainly seen them hold live coals in their hands
without seeming to be burnt, recline apparently at ease
upon a bed of upright nails, and bury their heads in sand
with no visible means of breathing for ten minutes at
a time. Truly India is a land of mystery, for just how
they manage these deceptions it is impossible to detect.

204 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
The nautch girls, though they wear beautiful, highly
colored dresses and fairly glisten with jewels, and are
usually lithe and graceful enough, do not seem to do much
real dancing from an American or European point of
view. Nothing like our idea of a wild, whirling, orien
tal dance such as that of " Little Egypt." A jangling
orchestra plays a monotonous tune, someone chants a
long poem, or the story of the wars, or loves of some old
prince, and the girls go through a lot of postures and
make gestures of a dramatic sort, but the dancing, though
graceful and suggestive, is not very spirited.
As for the famous Indian jugglers, they are clever
enough to be amusing and mysterious enough to be very
interesting; but I have yet to witness the famous rope
trick which, though in my heart of hearts I despair of, I
am nearly as anxious to see as anything in India.
Though very few of these dabblers in the occult ever at
tain to that degree of skill which is attributed to them,
yet as a class they are quite a remarkable set of men.
They never require the remote stage- setting parapher
nalia and mechanical devices of our own prestidigita
tors, but will perform on the drive in front of a bungalow,
on the porch or in your room with equal willingness and
equal success. Judging by the two examples I have so
far seen in Calcutta and Benares they are simply very
clever sleight-o-hand wizards, for I have not been treated
to anything which savored of the other world, though
some of their tricks are absolute mysteries to me. I
have seen the Mango trick and the ring trick, besides
many others more or less miraculous, and a battle royal
between a mongoose and a cobra.
Agra, February 21. . . In 1568 Akbar, the greatest of
his extraordinary family, swept down from Kabul and
reconquered in about ten years not only all that his father
Humayun had lost, but more besides, building up a vast
empire out of what is now India, Afghanistan, Baluchis-

two] FATEHPUR SIKRI 205
tan, Turkestan, Burma and Assam. Not only was Akbar
one of the world's greatest conquerors, and the skillful
uniter of many warring elements into a strong, cohesive
whole, but he was an ardent builder. Everywhere he
went, fortresses like footprints marked his path, and the
most splendid of them all and one of the most impregnable
is that which guards his capital here at Agra. It has a
double wall and a great moat and is built entirely of red
sandstone. The moat was in latter days usually left dry
in order that Shah Jehan, the grandson of Akbar, might
amuse himself by having gladiatorial combats and fights
between wild beasts in it. The sluice gates by which it
could be filled from the River Jumna, which further pro
tects its eastern face, are now silted up and the moat itself
grown with trees and shrubs. The fort is on a hill over
looking Agra, and part of it is now used as a barracks
and parade ground by British troops. It is of tremen
dous extent and contains within its massive walls some
of the most beautiful buildings in the world; mosques,
zenanas, halls of public and private audience, mirrored
baths and marble swimming pools, bazaars, halls of jus
tice, sleeping apartments, and recreation rooms. Part
were built by Akbar, and are typical of that strong,
iron willed ruler, being plain solid red-sandstone. Part
were built by his pleasure loving and more artistic grand
son, Shah Jehan -and these are the most beautiful. The
famous Pearl Mosque, built entirely of pure white marble
and lying like a lovely pearl inside the rough shell of
Akbar 's fort, is typical of the contrasted styles of archi
tecture. From the Jessamine Tower, which, with its deli
cate carved marble casements, hangs like a bird's nest
from the top of the high east wall, there is a splendid view
of that face of the fort with the moat below, the broad
Jumna lapping its base, the level countryside, and the
glorious Taj, dim in the distance.
Fatehpur Sikri, February 23. . . Akbar for a long

206 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
time had no son to inherit his throne, and began to get de
spondent and morose. One day a very pious and learned
man, who lived at Sikri, told him that if he would come
out and live in that holy place he would have a son. Ak
bar felt that it would be beneath the dignity of so
great an emperor to live in a small village like Sikri, and
so he caused a great city to be built there with walls,
temples, palaces, and public buildings, and moved out
with his whole court. His prayers were answered in
the course of time, and the great Emperor Jehangir
was born to him. In gratitude, Akbar made the learned
man, Salim Chisti, a personal friend and the tutor of
his child. The good Chisti died at length, after a life
rich with pious and charitable works, and was made a
saint. Akbar built over his grave at Fatehpur Sikri a
beautiful mausoleum of white marble. The delicately
carved marble screens and windows of this mausoleum
are the most perfect of their kind in the world.
Agra, February 27. . . Today we went out and saw the
rich yet simple and dignified tomb of the great Akbar
himself. The sarcophagus of pure white marble rests
in a pearl-like room whose sides are formed by more
lovely pierced screens. This room forms the center of a
noble red sandstone building, which in turn lies in the
heart of the beautiful green park at Sekundra. A fitting
resting place for the bones of so great a man. To prop
erly appreciate the value of Akbar 's life to India and to
the whole world, we must think of him not only as a
great conqueror, not only as the creator of the vast Mo
gul Empire, not only even as a wise and just adminis
trator of policies and laws, but as a man whose life was an
example and an inspiration to all his countrymen since.
We must realize that he lived at the same time that
Bloody Mary was ruling England, that Philip II was ter
rorizing Spain and the New World with his barbarous
Spanish Inquisition, and that the horrible massacre of

The Tomb op Salim Chisti at Fatehpur Sikri

DELHI 209

ot. Bartholomew's Eve was staining the fair name of
Francis II of France. All of the most Christian sover
eigns of Europe were trying by the cruelest means to
force their subjects to worship in a certain prescribed
waY> yet Akbar was so just and sane-minded in his way
of looking at things that he tolerated all religions in his
empire, and used to gather together the learned priests
and elders of many faiths, Hindoo, Buddhist, Moham
medan, Christian, Confucian, Parsee, Sikh, etc., to discuss
in a friendly spirit what were the best elements in each,
the points of contact, and the underlying truths.
Delhi, February 28. . . Here at Delhi, with its bul
let-riddled Kashmir Gate and the ruins and memorials,
marking the British position on the famous ' ' Ridge, ' '
one is being constantly reminded of the Great Indian
Mutiny. In conversation with Anglo-Indians, in books
and newspapers, pictures, and places, one is almost hour
ly running across allusions to it -much as we at home.
more unconsciously, would find constant reminders of our
Civil War. In addition to the countless stories one hears,
I have recently read Malleson's History of the Indian
Mutiny, and Lord Roberts 's Forty-one Years in India, and
it seems as though there were hardly a page in the world's
history which contains so many stirring adventures,
bloody battles and sieges, hair-breadth escapes, and brave
and daring deeds as this same mutiny. England through
out all her history seems to have been peculiarly gifted
with the ability to produce the right man for the critical
hour. Led on by such heroes as Nicholson, Havelock,
Roberts, and Colin-Campbell (her troops, many of them
fresh from Europe and unaccustomed to the tropics, and
her whole army outnumbered nearly ten to one), she not
only held her own but completely reconquered the whole
land, increasing her territory and gaining a firmer hold
than ever before. But at what a terrible cost can only be
realized when one sees the residency at Lucknow, which

210 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
has been left standing exactly as it was when the British
army finally fought their way through and saved the gar
rison. The wife of a British official who was recently
ordered to Cawnpore said ' ' I dread living at Cawnpore.
I shall always be thinking of the Well ! ' ' When Cawn
pore was stormed the men of the little garrison were all
killed in the hand-to-hand fighting which followed: but
the women and children were shut up in a room in the
governor's house. Then four Indians went in, locked the
doors behind them, and murdered them all in cold blood.
There were over a hundred and it took a long time. When
their arms got tired or their swords broke, they went out
and rested and got new ones. The English army of re
lief got there several days too late, and the room was then
a perfect shambles of blood, severed hair, scraps of dress,
and gashes low down on the wall, showing where the wo
men had cowered and been killed. The Indians had
thrown the bodies (some probably still alive) into a well,
and over this well the British government has erected a
beautiful Memorial Chapel with the marble figure of an
Angel of Mercy bending over it. There are soldiers con
stantly on guard, even now, and no Indians are allowed
inside the park which surrounds it. If a white man, and
more particularly an Englishman, goes in here, reads the
inscription and the story of the horrible massacre, and
realizes the significance of that tender and beautiful
Angel of Mercy, the result, should he chance to meet an
Indian outside before his passions have had time to cool,
are apt to be disastrous for that Indian. Unfortunately
there have been many innocent and unoffending Indians
maltreated through just this cause. While there is little
danger of there ever being so large and general an upris
ing again, yet the terrible memory of the mutiny and the
dread of its recurrence is always hanging over the white
residents, making India more than ever a land of sadness.
Delhi, February 29. . . Today at noon -which is

two] RAWALPINDI 211
the hour of prayer -we went to the great Mosque of Je-
hangir-the Jama Masjid. Climbing a tower, we looked
down into the vast open square court and saw that it was
nearly full of devout Mohammedans. In the centre was
a tank where they washed and purified themselves, and in
the western wall an arched portico facing towards Mecca.
Presently two robed figures went up a little flight of steps
to a stone pulpit in front of the arch and, turning towards
the holy city, shouted in ringing voices " Allah il Allah "-
God is God and Mohammed is his phophet. Everyone in
the vast assemblage took up the cry and fell upon his
knees. After this, passages from the Koran were read
and responses recited by the people ; and prayers were of
fered ; but there was no singing.
Rawalpindi, March 2. . . Up here in far northern
India it is cold, and the country has taken on a bleak,
rugged aspect, different both from the hot arid plains
around Agra and Delhi, and the green deltas of the Brah
maputra and the Ganges. The tribesmen hereabouts are
of a different sort from the cowardly but well-educated
Babus of southern India. They are tall, strong, fierce,
bearded Mohammedans, usually travel armed, and simply
dote on highway robbery and fighting. It is said that
many of the Afghans who form part of that famous white-
officered regiment -The Khyber Rifles -which keeps the
pass open and safe two days out of the week, are the very
men who will take a shot at a stray traveler or small
caravan on the days when not on duty. It is to Peshawur
and Pindi that the rich caravans from Kabul, Merv,
Samarkand, and Bokhara, come, toiling over the famous
Khyber Pass. This pass is the gate to India from the
north ; it is the way Tamerlane came in when he conquered
India. Mahmud of Ghazni, Babar, Akbar, and all the
other conquerors, save Alexander, used it ; and England
is afraid that Russia will try to come in at the same back
door. It is strongly fortified along its entire length, how-

212 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
ever, and there are ruins of forts dating from Akbar 's
time. Just at present this town is full up with troops mobiliz
ing for the war against the Zakka Kheels. The canton
ment, in fact, was so full, that we considered ourselves
lucky in getting hold of a tent to sleep in. It is very cold
to-night and there is snow on the passes at Murree and
beyond. We have made arrangements with Dahnjiboy
and Son (who carry the royal mail) to take us over to
Serinagur in three days by tonga -vide Kipling's Clanh
of the Tonga Bar. This is very expensive, as it is a trip
of over two hundred miles and means a relay of ponies
every six miles. We shall be the first people into Kash
mir this year. I'm sorry Gil is not going to take this
trip with us. I hoped he would change his mind at the
last, and that I should meet him with Purdy at Lahore.
Jeypore, March 22. . . Easily one of the most in
teresting cities we have yet seen, Jeypore presents some
strange contrasts. Built in quite an old-world style and
yet along modern lines, it is laid out in an up to date man
ner, with broad regular streets and buildings of the same
general style. No one is allowed to build in the city un
less they use pink marble, pink sandstone, or at least paint
the structure pink. The effect, as may be imagined, is
very striking, and for this reason Jeypore is often called
" The City of Sunset." With its brightly clad women
and men, who still carry swords, it has a splendid barbaric
flavor. Of course many of the poorer people have to use
stucco and have facades much larger than their actual
houses, to be in keeping with the general style of archi
tecture -but one tries not to notice these little discrep
ancies. Some of the pink marble gateways with carved
balconies look perfectly scrumptuous - good enough to
eat. The Maharajah's palace, while a splendid modern
building and very beautiful and interesting with its gar
dens, fountains, and walks, and its sacred turtles and

Amber, the Citadel, Acropolis, and one op the Reservoirs

JEYPORE 215

crocodiles (which Purdy and I saw being fed), makes one
nevertheless regret that the prince didn't continue in his
old, uncomfortable, but highly picturesque capital at Am
ber : for Amber is just the sort of place you have always
imagined you would find in India. The Maharajah lent
us an elephant upon which to ride out to this ancient city.
The ride was interesting, as we saw a couple of temples
and forts on the way, but hot and dusty, so that we had
to refresh ourselves with a cold * ' peg ' ' at the rest-house
just within the city walls. Amber is set in a sort of a
gash in the savage hills and was very strongly fortified.
We wound slowly up a steep zig-zagged stone causeway,
and under half a dozen ponderous, port-cullised gateways,
to the great acropolis or fortified palace, which crowns
one of the hills above the town. It is full of beautiful
rooms, state apartments, halls of judgment, corridors,
temples, stables, and everything necessary and adequate
to a brilliant court. Jeypore was a very important place
in the old days, and its Maharajah one of the most power
ful and warlike of the Rajput princes. When Akbar, in
his career of conquest, laid siege to it, the Maharajah
simply turned the common people out to take refuge in
the hills (they were safe enough as Akbar never bothered
with them), and with his gay court and a veteran army of
about ten thousand prepared to resist the emperor. His
walls were high and strong, all the hills round about the
city were covered with forts, and the great stone reser
voirs, which supplied the garrison with water are intact
and full to-day. So the old chieftan sat tight and held
high revel in his sumptuous palace. Music and dance and
song held sway and the hostile army battering at his gates
was laughed to scorn. But Akbar was not a safe man to
laugh at, he never relaxed his hold -provisions grew
scarce, sorties were repulsed, outlying forts captured,
and finally, after a siege of nearly a year, the great city
was stormed. With its fall was crushed the back-bone of
the Rajputana resistance.

216 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
The Palace of the Winds, the royal stables, the splen
did observatory with its gigantic stone and bronze instru
ments, and the beautifully carved tombs of the sun-de
scended ancestors of the present dynasty we found very
much worth while. But I think Purdy and I enjoyed as
much as anything our visits to rug-making and brass-
hammering factories, the dealers in old armor and weap
ons, and the entertainment we received there. I remem
ber one many-coursed, formal dinner which was spread
before us by crimson and gold turbaned servitors in a
great dim palatial room from whose carved and traceried
windows we could look down upon the kaleidoscopic
street-life below. Our host, a wealthy rug merchant, sat
cross-legged on a divan opposite, toying with fruit and
wine and Russian cigarettes and talking volubly while he
picked the silken rosettes from his pointed Turkish slip
pers carelessly to pieces.
Ahmedabad, March 23. . . What Ahmedabad is
particularly noted for, are her great religious festivals,
the famous windows in Sidi Said's Mosque, and the beau
tiful carvings of her Jain temples. We visited half a
dozen of these, and the detail of the carving is simply
marvelous - every available inch being chiselled with ex
quisite nicety. The bas-reliefs -illustrative of scenes in
the early religious history of the Jainas (a secret offshoot
of Buddhism which combined with Brahminism) - almost
rival those of the Baruboedoer in Java. Later we went
down to the river, a branch of the Sabarmati, and watched
the great crowd of religious bathers. Although it was
not a festival day and we were rather late, yet there were
a couple of thousand dark figures still dotted over the
broad sandy bottom of the river, and several hundreds in
the water. We paid our respects to several large and im
posing mosques, and finally drove up to the small plain-
looking one which all the world knows about. The win
dows were carved from solid slabs of stone about six

Detail of the old Palace, Amber

COLOMBO 219

inches thick, but so thorough has been the piercing that
from a distance it looks as filmy as a cobweb. The de
sign of a vine, with twisted interlacing stems, is as grace
ful and unconventional as a bit of Japanese embroidery.
We spent the afternoon poking about the crowded bazaars,
where the cloth merchants and bronze dealers expose
their gaudy wares. It was intensely hot in the narrow
crowded streets, but we had an interesting time, and I se
cured some good snapshots and a dainty Hindoo scarf.
We leave this evening for Bombay, where there is a good
hotel with civilized bath-tubs and iced drinks !
Colombo, May 7. The Portuguese, during their brief
but widespread period of supremacy on the high seas,
were the first to gain a foothold in Ceylon -as in most
other eastern dependencies now owned by England or
Holland. Though they never controlled the whole island
they were the dominant power there from 1507 to 1656.
Then the Dutch, who had already driven the Portuguese
from Java, and Malacca, succeeded them also as masters
of the seaports of Ceylon. Jaffna and Point-de-Galle
were the chief marts in those days, the former, indeed,
dating back to the days when Greek and Roman argosies
lay in its roadstead, and Ceylon was known as the Island
of Taprobane. The chief reminder of the Dutch occupa
tion are in the form of old forts, such as one finds at
Jaffna, Galle, or Kalpitiya, and in names- Van Orm, Van
der Geest, etc. Dutch blood seems to make a better mix
ture with native stock than that of any other white race-
a hardier, more honest, and independent type of half-
breed. This is true everywhere, but so much so in Ceylon
that those Eurasians who have Dutch blood are put in a
class by themselves called Burghers. The Portuguese left
a deeper impress on the manners, customs, and beliefs of
the natives, and the Catholic faith has survived wherever
it was introduced by the early Portuguese Franciscans and
Jesuits. There are several old Portuguese churches on

220 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
the island, and many natives, bearing noble names such
as De Silva, Fernando, Pereira, still wear the golden
crucifixes and rosaries which have been handed down in
their families since the days when Portugal held the coast
land. In 1796, the English * ' beat the Dutch, ' ' took pos
session of the maritime provinces, and after a good deal
of friction and mutual illwill declared war on the Kingdom
of Kandy, the only really formidable power on the island.
The Kandyans were brave and well-led, and the country
in which the fighting took place very difficult for an in
vading army -high sheer mountains, deep valleys, gorges,
and the whole covered, at that time, with a dense tropical
growth. It was a terrible struggle and the few British
troops suffered several defeats, but finally, with the aid
of other native tribes (who hated the overbearing Kings
of Kandy), and sepoys from India, the mountain clans
were conquered and the supremacy of England estab
lished over the entire island in 1815.
The Kandy of today is not only among the supremely
beautiful places of the earth, ranking with Nikko, Mya-
jima, Taormina, Granada, and Lauterbrunnen, but it is
one of the great Holy Places, on a par with Jerusalem,
Mecca, Benares, and Lhasa. Here in the hill country
of Ceylon is the famous Temple of the Tooth, containing
one of Gautama's canines in a jeweled casket. Thou
sands and thousands of pilgrims from all over the Budd
hist world - Japan, Mongolia, China, Thibet, Bhutan, Ne-
paul, Sikhim, Siam, Cambodia, and other countries - come
yearly to " acquire merit." At the great annual festival
when the tooth is exposed to view and there are elaborate
ceremonials and devil-dancings, the crowds are almost
unmanageable. It is one of the queerest buildings I have
ever been in, this temple of the Tooth. Purdy and I had
been out driving through the hills one afternoon with a
chance English acquaintance, and stopped to have a look
at the celebrated building on our way back. We went in
through a grotesquely carved portal, up winding passages

two] COLOMBO 221
and down stone steps worn smooth by thousands of naked
feet, and slippery with grease and filth. Our British
friend commenced cursing the moment he entered and
found that none of the priests could understand him, and
kept it up with a vigor and variety which surprised us,
until we were out into the fresh air and sunshine again.
There were rooms where the reek of incense and perfume
almost choked us, and there were courtyards where the
heavy booming of the priest's brass drums fairly deaf
ened us, and there were odors and sights which will never
be forgot; but through it all, like the central motif of an
opera, ran that steady undercurrent of purple profanity.
After we had had a distant peep at the tooth and seen
the temple treasures in a rock-hewn room with great
bronze doors, we went into the library, a great, round,
well-lighted room where a score of monks were busy read
ing and writing. The walls were piled high with parch
ment rolls and queer wooden-bound books in Pali, San
skrit, Chinese, and Cingalese -sacred Buddhistic lore.
This is one of the most valuable theological libraries in
the world, and a good many hand-made books, original
translations and copies, are done here by the monks.
The Buddhist monasteries serve as the only repositories
and transmitters of the learning and literature of the
East, just as the European monasteries did for us during
the Middle Ages. I bought from a priest who had just
finished copying it, a long thin sheet of the Dhamma-
pada-the Buddhist Canon -painstakingly printed in the
beautiful Pali characters upon a leaf of plantain palm.
The drives about Kandy, many of them planned by
Lady Horton, through vanilla, cocoa, and spice planta
tions, give one lovely views over hill and valley mantled
in all the luxury of palm and fern, flower, and vine, and
down into the lake through the tall palms which fringe its
shores. Not far from Kandy and along a splendid bit of
macadam road, lie the wonderful Botanical Gardens of
Peradeniya, almost equalling those of Buitenzorg in beau-

222 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
ty and completeness. There were giant Bamboos, sacred
Bo-trees, lotus ponds, rose gardens, the curious " Floral
Fly Traps," banyans, miles of wild coiling liana vines,
avenues of royal palms, and best of all a flock of flying
foxes, and the most gorgeous and opulent orchid house I
have ever seen. The housing and apparatus for research
and experimental work, while perhaps not quite so com
plete as those of Java, are of very material assistance to
the planters.
Colombo, May 14. Ceylon is a crown colony of Eng
land, administered for H. M. King Edward VII by a gov
ernor appointed by the crown. Ceylon does not belong
to India either in a political or administrative sense, nor
any longer geographically. The isthmus which once con
nected them has long ago been submerged to a mere chain
of islets, and the island has developed along separate
lines. In Ceylon one sees England " bearing the white-
man's burden " at her best: no display of military force
(there is only one British regiment for the whole island -
artillery), few indications of an armed occupation, but
everywhere system, order, neatness, respect for author
ity, perfect, smooth running machinery in all branches of
public service from the quarantine stations and board of
health regulation to governriient railroad, government tel
egraph, and post office: all admirably organized and
equipped, and quietly and effectively administered.
Whatever of friction or irritation one does feel comes
from the petty officials, who, like small men the world
over, are very apt to feel their oats. Just before starting
for the low country along the south coast for a shoot, I
called upon the lieutenant-governor (to whom I had a
letter from a mutual planter friend), to see if I could get
permission to go through the game reserve of the Yala
Forest. He was very civil, but busy, and asked me to
see one of his assistants. I accordingly went into this
chap's office, whither my card and purpose had preceded

two] COLOMBO 223
me, and got to the heart of things as quickly as I could.
The rather washed-out looking individual at the desk
raised his eyes languidly, as I finished, and murmured,
" I know, my good chap, but I don't think I quite know
who you are, do I? " I apologized and introduced my
self and again stated my business. To which he again
replied, " But I don't think I know really who you are."
"It's very true," I answered, " that I may be a nobody,
but then, you know, I may really be somebody, so perhaps
you'd better give the matter your attention for a mo
ment." "I don't think this comes under my depart
ment," replied my bored official. " Do you know whose
department it does come under?" I asked, trying to keep
cool. "I'm really afraid I don't know anything about
the matter at all," he answered, with a poorly-stifled
yawn. "As its too much to expect that you should know
of anyone who does know anything about it, I shan't
trouble you further," I retorted and stumped out. I
finally got the permission I wanted through a very pleas
ant and sporting district commissioner at Hambantota.
Ceylon is another of those astonishing proofs of Eng
land's genius for controlling and uplifting oriental peo
ples : for in Ceylon the Englishman is teaching his fellow
savage how to work, and in bossing the job, in directing
the labors of his millions of dusky brothers, he is doing
some good hard work himself. Even in the small rural
towns or jungle villages of the interior, there is a regard
for law and order which would put one of our civilized
cities to the blush. Bullock-cart drivers, whom one meets
up country and who have very probably never even been
to Colombo, turn out and keep to the left-hand side of the
road in the fashion dictated by the London " Bobby " on
Piccadilly. I remember an evening I spent at Negombo,
when there was a dinner given at the Dak Bungalow to the
local prefect of police by his brother officers, on the occa
sion of his promotion to another post. They were all
Cingalese but all spoke in English, and I, who was smok-

224 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
ing on the veranda overhanging the broad river and en
joying the moonlight on its ripples, could understand
practically everything that was said. The usual royal
healths were of course drunk and God Save the King
sung standing, but what surprised me in addition to the
good quality of the speeches was the keenness of these
young chaps on their jobs. They were forever ' ' talking
shop" and seemed very much in earnest. It couldn't
have been done for effect, for there were no Englishmen
present and they didn't know I was outside. I never
saw anything like that in India outside the regular army.
Of course lots of the native troops are loyal and keen as
can be, even there. Later this police banquet grew very
hilarious in its enthusiasm, and in fact, after I had turned
in, made so much noise that I was forced to come out into
the dining-room in my pajamas and ask them to keep
quiet. They looked as ashamed as a lot of schoolboys
and presently slunk away, the more sober ones helping
the less steady. I suppose they took me for a British offi
cer in undress uniform. I turned in again quite mortified
to think that I had put such a complete wet blanket on
their innocent, if vigorous, loyalty.
Colombo is a city I shall always recall with a great deal
of pleasure. I will have been there six times, including a
short stop on my way back from Java in August, and
though these last days have been rainy and depressing,
and hot as it can only be in the southwest monsoon in the
tropics, still the weather was clear most of the times.
But it is not her weather, the blue skies and the generous
golden light flooding everything, which makes Colombo so
attractive, for after all it is a hot place, despite the ever
present sea breeze. It is rather an intangible combina
tion of things, incongruous enough and little in them
selves, which go, however, to make up " atmosphere."
Memories of drives up the long avenue of royal palms,
through the parks and the Cinnamon Gardens ; long after
noons in the bazaars and amazing jewel shops with a

two] COLOMBO 225

friend, early morning rides down the green Negombo
canal in a launch, long delightful swims in the tank at
the Galle Face, views of the blue shining harbor crowded
with craft of every size and shape, and showing every
flag from the Star and Crescent of Tripoli and the White
Elephant of Siam to the Black Eagle of Germany and the
Stars and Stripes; the sun-soaked streets bright with
gaily-clad native belles and flowering trees ; five o 'clock
at the cricket field, with the chance to talk to a pretty,
well-gowned white woman and drink a cup of tea ; conver
sations with all sorts and conditions of men -Portuguese,
Jesuits, Buddhist Monks, Y.M.CA. men, jockeys, pearl
fishers, planters, jugglers, native students, etc., and star
lit strolls along the great Galle Face Promenade beside
the surf -bombarded beach, where the long white wash of
the Indian Seas comes rolling in under the bending
palms - a dream of tropic beauty.
I can see the shadowy lines of its trees,
And catch in distant gleams,
The sheen of the far-surrounding seas,
And the islands that were the Hesperides
Of all my boyish dreams.
And the verse of a Lapland song
Is haunting my memory still :
' 0 ! a boy's will is the wind's will,
And the thoughts of youth are long, long thoughts. '
Colombo, May 15. Buddhism is still the dominant re
ligion of Ceylon, although but a small part of India itself,
the birthplace of the Buddha, still clings to its ancient
faith. The " Road to Salvation " was discovered and in
dicated by Prince Siddharta or Gautama, who lived and
taught in northern India about five hundred years before
Christ. The Cingalese were converted almost as a nation
in the third century, b.c. Mahinda, the son of the great
Buddhist King of India, Asoka, came across as a mission
ary to Ceylon and met and converted King Tissa and all

226 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
his court, who were out hunting, much as St. Augustine
converted King Ethelbert, the Saxon. Although the
king's will was law in those days, and King Tissa forced
this new religion on his subjects, yet a great wave of re
ligious enthusiasm swept over the land which has en
dured till to-day. The great religious monuments which
sprung into existence as a result of the national confes
sion of faith are still standing in the parched jungles
round Sigiri, amidst the ruins of Anuradhpura and be
side the dark lake at Kandy, their curious form and co
lossal projections an amazement to the modern world.
Anuradhpura, was once a great and flourishing city with
walls twenty miles in circumference, but the jungle swal
lowed it up centuries ago, and little is left save a few
interesting ruins which indicate its former size and gran
deur. It was the capital where the great kings of the an
cient Buddhist Kingdom of Lanka held sway in ages past,
and it was stormed and its inhabitants were killed or scat
tered in the Malabar Invasion of 1200 a.d. Among the
most beautiful buildings which have been unearthed is
the queen's bathing tank, a structure of considerable size,
sumptuously carved, with stone steps and platform
around its edges. It was full of water when we were
there and looked very cool and inviting. What it must
once have been, when handsomely roofed from the glaring
sun and shut off from the rest of the palace buildings,
when slaves with fans and cooling drinks were springing
hither and thither, only a vivid imagination can conjure
up. A few carved pillars and the beautiful Moon Steps,
are all that is left of what must once have been one of the
most artistic monasteries, in the world - the royal monas
tery. These famous steps -two in number -are semi-cir
cular in shape, and have the Wheel of Life chiseled in
high relief upon their broad tops. What the archeolog-
ists at first took to be high conical-shaped hills, proved
eventually to be colossal dagobas or dome-like shrines,
built over the sacred relics of the Buddha. They had

The Moon Steps op the Royal Monastery
Anuradhpura

COLOMBO 229

been literally engulfed by the jungle. So much earth had
in the intervening centuries collected itself about the base
and all over the structures, that a heavy vegetation draped
them completely from recognition. One of these dagobas
was originally higher than St. Paul's Cathedral, London,
and equalled in mass the Pyramids of Giseh. Hundreds
of trees are growing from the sides and tops of these
temples, and their gnarled roots are fast completing the
work of disintegration. In spite of the intense heat
while we were at Anuradhpura and our uncomfortable
quarters (the Dak Bungalow was crowded, so we slept in
a thatched native cottage near by) , we stayed long enough
to visit the strange temples hollowed out of the high
rocky cliffs, and were led by a yellow robed priest (who
gave us his card at parting) into dark caves, where giant
images of the reclining Buddha are carved in the living
rock. Before another gilded image, in a small vaulted
chamber where incense was burning and flowers had been
arranged, there had been placed a considerable treasure
of money, gold, silver, jewels, ivory, silk, bronze, carved
wood, etc., offerings from pious pilgrims. From the top
of one of these rock temples we had a splendid view out
over the jungle, just as the sunset glow was turning the
swaying palms into a sea of molten gold. We also found
some restored shrines and modern temples, visited by
pilgrims from all over Ceylon, India, Siam, and Burma.
But the great tanks and reservoirs, as big as lakes, and
the canals of that great system of irrigation, by which the
ancient kings kept the now dreary plain fertile and smil
ing and productive, were perhaps the most interesting of
all. To visit a spot like Anuradhpura, is to realize the
vastness of the gulf which separates us from the ages
that have gone before. One can catch glimpses of a great
and wonderful past, of which the outside world has no con
ception. We could see, in the long perspective of the van
ished centuries, a Ceylon rich in all the splendor of a pros-

230 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
perous and powerful state, with a well developed art and
architecture of its own, and a religion to which kings,
priests and peasants were alike devoted, body and soul.
The philosopher's dictum, " To travel is to possess the
world, " is as true of the imaginative as of the actual world,
and only a peripatetic can go far enough behind such ruins,
as those of Anuradhpura, and the temples in the hills,
far enough beyond the experience of our own race and
time to learn their lessons and grasp the mystery of
their dead past.
Colombo, May 18. We didn't visit Nuwara Eliya,
whose only claim to fame lies in its coolness -it is five
thousand feet high and the hill resort of the residents -
but pushed on instead to Bandarawela, the end of the
railway line into the hills. Here we spent the night and
started out the next day by coach for Passara to visit
Stewart Taylor, a tea-planter who had asked us up for
a few days at the instance of an M.P. friend of Purdy,
who had written him. It was a lovely drive ; all about us
were the great plantations, for this is the heart Of the tea
country. In productiveness certain parts of Ceylon
rival even Java, and in tea growing if anything it ex
cels the larger island. Tea is easily the leading indus
try of Ceylon: there are tea estates wherever soil and
climate are propitious, there are tea towns in the hills,
tea railways and bullock-cart transit through the moun
tains, tea toilers on every slope, and tea millionaires - in
England. Thousands of Tamil coolies from the south
ern provinces of India cross the straits to find work in
the constantly increasing tea-industries of Ceylon and
the new but promising rubber plantations, for Ceylon is
by no means so densely populated as Java. In the early
days, coffee was the great money-maker of Ceylon as of
Java, but the same deadly fungus blight which ruined
the Dutch planters appeared about 1875 in Ceylon, and
spreading gradually from plantation to plantation finally

-rfl

¦' fc...|4j*-&.

^'^..^'^V'.

General View op Anuradhpura prom one op
the great ruined Dagobas
(By permission of Messrs. ZJnderivood and Vnderrvood)

The Queen's Bathing Tank

 COLOMBO 233
exterminated practically all the trees. The planters
turned first to the culture of cinchona (from which qui
nine is obtained) and worried along for a while on that,
but finally settled down upon tea as the sure road to
salvation. Since that time "the tea industry has ac
complished everything expected of it -except the win
ning of the American Cup ! ' ' Rubber, on account of the
low cost of planting and tending the trees, is becoming
tremendously popular with the planters, and will un
doubtedly yield enormous profits if the market doesn't
get overstocked ; for nearly all the planters here in Cey
lon, as well as in Java and the Straights Settlements, are
" rubber-mad." Chocolate is another of Ceylon's impor
tant industries, for no less than forty thousand acres are
planted with cacao trees. Though there are over seven
hundred thousand acres of terraced rice fields in the
island, a large quantity of this ' ' staple of the east ' ' has
to be annually imported. Among the best paying plan
tations for the capital invested are the cocoanut. There
are miles and miles of this picturesque and graceful palm
whose only enemy is the typhoon. An enumeration of
some of the practical uses to which the products of the
cocoanut palm are put, will give an idea of how well
it pays. The young, green cocoanut pays the most
delicious dividend in its sweet, slightly acid milk, pure,
cool, and refreshing, ' ' the most satisfying drink that
art or nature ever gave to man." Then there is the
fine, white meat of the ripe cocoanut, and the big, nu
tritious buds that are made into preserves. From the
dried cocoanut meat (called copra) is pressed the rich
cocoanut oil which goes into soaps, hair restorers, and
candles. The refuse makes poonac, a good fodder for
cattle. From the shells are made cups and bowls, and
those of inferior quality, when dried, make a smokeless
fuel, and yield a very good quality of charcoal. The
large leaves are used for mats and baskets ; the stalks for
making fences, brooms, yokes, and thatch; the timber for

234 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
houses, beams, and boats. The hairy outer husk becomes
coir fibre for ropes, mats, and brushes ; so that the cocoa-
nut palm is something more than a mere decorative fea
ture of the landscape, and the eight hundred million cocoa-
nuts that annually cluster amid the feathery tops of
Ceylon's characteristic tree, represent one of her most
valuable assets.
We had two short but very delightful visits with Taylor
and his friend Robinson, to whose bungalow we all three
went over the last night. We saw a good deal of the tea
industry and something of rubber planting, and envied
them their carefree out-of-door life very much. There
were stories to be told, books and comfortable chairs to
lounge in when it rained, pleasant walks to be taken and
much information to be gleaned. Taylor is one of the
best gun shots on the island, holding the record for snipe.
Besides horses and dogs, he keeps ducks and chickens.
Robinson I was particularly anxious to meet, as he is
the greatest hunter in Ceylon and famous as a " rogue
elephant ' ' destroyer. He gave me some useful tips,
and several letters to officials and friends of his on the
island, which helped me to have a bully shoot after Purdy
left. He also wrote to a planter friend of his in Travan-
core (a native principality in southern India), named
Pinches, who has in turn written very warmly asking me
to come up and visit him at his estate in the mountains,
and incidentally hunt ibex and bison. Robinson has some
splendid trophies in his comfortable bungalow, and told
us some thrilling tales of true experiences he or acquaint
ances had had with buffalo and elephant. Both his and
Taylor's bungalows command splendid views out over
the high hilly tea country of central Ceylon, down towards
Batticaloa, dim in the distance. The hill country of Cey
lon around Nuwara Eliya, Adams Peak, Bandarawela,
and Badulla is the most beautiful part of the island, ex
cept possibly the palm-fringed beaches where the long
white combers come rolling in. Up here in the hills they

MOMBASA 237

hunt the stag " to the knife," run them down and bay
them with dogs, and then go in with sheath knives in
the good old fashioned way -the sport Henry of Navarre
was so fond of. This gives the stag -more properly the
sambur-a good fighting chance, and the planters say that
a good half of them get away after goring hunters and
hounds severely. One of the noblest sports still left to us !
Ceylon is so much more beautiful than India that it
is hard to realize its age. In India, except for the
' ' snows, ' ' the chief interest lies in the buildings and what
they recall of history or romance; but though Ceylon
has had a scarcely less splendid past and contains inter
esting ruins and indications of a mighty and splendid
state of civilization, it is the exquisite loveliness of the
island that appeals to one most constantly.
Oh Green Ceylon ! What reck I of
Thy buried capitals,
Thy ruined fanes and palaces,
Thy crumbling moss-grown walls !
Thy grim and storied age hath been
By sweeter minstrels sung,
But in my heart thou 'It ever live
Smiling and fair and young.
The following section of the diary, which was hept
from August 25, 1908, until November 28,1908, being writ
ten up as it was every night, after a long, hard day's
worh, pretends to be nothing more than a rough log of
each day's doings.
Mombasa, British East Africa, At/ gust 25, 1908. Ar
rived in this pretty little harbor on the good ship Kanzler
from Bombay, at 11 a. m. Got my luggage and guns
through the customs and had the latter registered. Called
on Smith McKensey (Smith McKensey and Company -
safari outfitters, to whom I had'written before from both
Burma and Java) and was put up at the pleasantly situ-

238 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
ated little club, moving in at once, bag and baggage. Spent
nearly the whole day with S.M. and Company, discussing
plans, equipment, and safari details. Dined with Simms
(Mr. Simms -head of the Mombasa branch of S.M. and
Company) and Forbes, and met a lot of pleasant chaps
during the evening : Lake, Denne, Walker, Pickering, Vine-
ing, Parenti.8
Mombasa, August 26. Spent the whole day in making
out and buying my outfit, stores, and medicines, finding my
Hunting Note-Book very useful. Am unable to buy any
films here for my kodak ! Got my game license, gun licen
ses, and made a deposit with S.M. and Company, receiving
a check book from them to use for current expenses en
route. Also, made out and bought my safari outfit.
Studied Swahili with my boy, who speaks a little English.
Dined with Lake.
Mombasa, August 27. Signed on the men for my safari
today, who have been collected by S.M. and Company, and
went over my safari outfit with the head man, who seems
very capable. An American fibre-grower, named Pape,
has kindly lent me his tent for the trip, which saves me the
great expense of buying a new one -nothing of that sort
can be rented here. Had Pickering and Forbes to dinner
with me at the club.

8 One of the two survivors of an exciting, but true Lion-yarn, which I
first heard over a year ago in Japan, from Captain Worthington, with
whom I dined at Myanoshita. A man-eating lion had been making a good
deal of trouble around Kimaa (a station on the Uganda R. R.) and had
already claimed several victims, when Mr. Ryall (superintendent of police)
and two friends, Huebner and Parenti, came up to have a "go" at him.
As the lion usually came boldly up to the station, they decided to spend
the night in their R. R. Carriage, keeping watch, turn and turn about.
Ryall fell asleep on his first watch; the lion, silently negotiating the two
high steps from the ground, entered the carriage, and with his feet actually
planted on Parenti 's chest (who was sleeping on the floor), picked up poor
Ryall and sprang out of the window with him as the door had, in the
meantime, slid to. The remains were found next day at some considerable
distance from the carriage. The lion was eventually captured in a trap
and killed.

The old Portuguese Fort and the Harbor
op Mombasa
(By piTmi.'-.-ion of Mrxsrs. (' iiderrood and Undenrooil)

The narrow crooked Streets op Mombasa

NAIROBI 241

On the train to Nairobi from Mombasa, August 28.
Spent a quiet evening yesterday (after a busy day)
and turned in about eleven, but was kept awake until
after one by a mad revel in and about the club. The last
thing I remember was hearing some chap singing Under
the Deodars in stentorian tones. There was a double
attraction in Mombasa today, a hanging at nine (four
murderers) and a wedding at half past nine. Most peo
ple are taking in both! The bride arrived last night on
the French Mail. Somehow it reminds me of the story
about the man whose wife, visiting him in prison one even
ing, found him eating toasted cheese with great gusto.
' ' How silly of you, John, ' ' expostulated she. ' ' You know
toasted cheese disagrees with you. Now you'll be com
plaining all day tomorrow." " Oh no, I shan't," replies
John cheerfully, " they're going to hang me tomorrow at
seven ! ' '
Entrained for Nairobi at 11 a.m. with head man, two
trackers or gun-boys, cook and assistant, boy, four aska-
ris, fifteen porters (fifteen is, of course, not enough -I am
taking these along to act as a nucleus, coast-boys being
considered more reliable, and shall pick up the rest in
Nairobi), and outfit and grub9 for three months. Com
fortable but rather dusty journey through plain and for
est-country gradually rising.
Nairobi, August 29. Quite cool last night ; early tea at
Kiu. Sunrise over the beautiful Kapiti Plains. Saw con
siderable game (zebra, Thompson's and Grant's gazelle,
wildebeest, and ostrich) mostly on south side of R.R.,
which is a game sanctuary (boundaries : Coast- Nairobi -
German boundary -R.R.) Pleasant fellow traveler, Mr.
Graham, who asked me to stop off and have a shoot at his
camp, near Kiu, on my return. Reached Nairobi at 11 :15
a.m., and presently met Mr. Tarlton, whom I had heard a
good deal about as being a well known hunter, and the
best shot in the Protectorate. We had a drink and a chat,

9 See special lists.

242 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
and I took him up to tiffin with me at the hotel. There
are no porters to be had now, but he thinks he will be able
to get me some by Monday night, so I expect I shall have
to wait. He is thinking of going out on safari himself,
in a few days. I was a little doubtful as to whether I
had enough flour and sugar in my commissariat and Mr.
Tarlton kindly looked over my lists and confirmed my
suspicions. Everything else seems to be right. I shall
get a sack of potatoes and my shot-gun shells here prior
to starting. Went out to Tarlton 's bungalow for tea, and
later we had a stroll around after pigeons, but no luck.
I stayed for dinner, his pal, Newland, appearing, and we
had some mighty interesting talk. T. has bagged seven
teen lions, and elephants by the hundreds, as he was an old
ivory-hunter in the Congo. He has some interesting tro
phies and pictures. Later, Boileau and Mr. and Mrs.
Hirtzel dropped in; the latter one of the most beautiful
girls I have ever seen. We spun a few yarns, and played
bridge before a wood fire, breaking up at midnight. Tarl
ton kindly lent me a pony to ride back the two miles to
mine inn, through the chilly darkness. Nairobi, being
five thousand feet above the sea level, is very much cooler
and healthier than Mombasa.
Nairobi, Sunday, August 30. Slept wonderfully last
night, in spite of a succession of lurid dreams in which I
invariably ended by saving Mrs. Hirtzel from some fur
ious lion or charging rhino. Rose and bathed lazily at
eight, and spent the morning overhauling my personal
kit, to see that nothing had been forgotten. Daily and
assiduous care of my guns is getting them back into shape
after their damp sea voyage. This little hotel, the Nor
folk, although high priced (rupees, fifteen per diem) is far
better than any in Mombasa - clean, good food, and fresh
milk, which I haven't enjoyed for Heaven -knows-how-
long. After tiffin, Tarlton came around, and we went
out for a stroll, ending up at the club (on a little hill

two] NAIROBI 243
back of the town) for tea. There is a magnificent collec
tion of heads here. Tarlton evidently wants to come out
with me and I should like mighty well to have him, as I
expect I shall be a bit lonely before my return. Also, his
knowledge of the language, country, and the natives,
would be a great advantage, and probably a saving. How
ever, as he is a professional ivory hunter, I don't sup
pose he would care to go where I do, and would probably
expect high pay anyway. He seems like a good sort.
Turned in early.
Nairobi, Monday, August 31. Took a cup of tea and
some bread and butter at five-thirty, and tramped out
about five miles to the open plains (Athi Plains -which
begin close to Nairobi and stretch for one hundred miles
or so towards German East Africa), where there was a
good deal of game, though very wild. My idea was to do
some target shooting in order to learn whether my teles
cope-sight was still to be relied upon, as I found it very
much hors-de-combat after being bashed about for five
months in the bag of shooting duds which I lost in India,
and I had had to re-adjust the lenses, etc., myself. After
missing three gazelles (one of which I stalked to within
one hundred and fifty yards), I rigged up a sort of sight
rest, paced off my distances, and fixed up an old letter
for target. About thirty rounds convinced me that the
sight was not only useless, but beyond my power to repair.
On the way home I luckily came across another gazelle -
thompson- which I knocked over at one hundred and
fifty yards, with flat sights. Rather nice head. Had
another talk with Tarlton, and we have decided to hit
it off together. I like his way very much, and think we
shall get along well together, and that I will have a much
better time. My five weeks of almost continuous sea
faring have left me so soft that my five hours tramp this
morning quite lamed me, and I am thinking seriously of
buying a riding mule for at least part of my trip. I

244 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
should be able to sell him again without much loss. Nair
obi is quite an interesting little place of about two hun
dred white inhabitants. At almost any hour of the day,
parties of wild tribesmen may be seen filing through its
dusty streets, in savage finery -feather head-dresses,
beads, paint, bracelets, anklets, spears, and usually
nothing else -perhaps a scant cloth over the shoulder.
The town has generally the rough and ready appearance
of all frontier posts -the picturesque sombrero garb
which Frederick Remington so delighted to honor. There
are troops here (all native, fierce husky beggars), so that
the morning bugle and the sunset gun greet the ear, as in
deed they have done in many of the British ' ' Outposts of
Empire" which I've visited. Instead of buying tents
for my men I got them several rolls of Americani (a
cheap sort of canvas), and am letting them employ this
leisure time in making their own tents -(Foxy Quiller).
Went over grub and general kit again this afternoon, sub
stituting canvas for metal buckets, and generally light
ening things a bit. Got fifteen more porters enlisted be
fore dark, Kikuyu, Nandi, Wakamba, and Kavirondos.
Turned in early.
Kiu River (Five Yards), September 1. Divided loads,
settled final arrangements, and started the safari at 11 a.m.
I weakened at the last moment, as did Tarlton, and bought
a mule. We started after tiffin. Came upon a camp of
two P.W.D. men (public works department), about four,
and stopped to tea. Went into camp at this stream
eleven miles from Nairobi at five-thirty. The usual
bothers of a first camp. Turned in at eight, forty-five.
Indirugo River (Six Yards), September 2. Break
fasted at six and late start at six, thirty-five in a light
drizzle. Stopped at eight for a cup of tea at a
pleasant settler's named Heatly (friend of Tarlton),
who has recently shot a black leopard. Uneventful morn
ing, along the Fort Hall road. Tea, bread and cheese at

two] SMITH'S SHAMBA 245
1 p.m. At two, T. and I branched off to get some meat.
We each made several misses at distant gazelles who were
still near enough to civilization to be very shy. T.
wounded a hartebeest (Bubalis cohei) - so named by
the Dutch or Boers, because they are so hard to kill, I
judge -but it got away. We then separated. I made
another miss then tipped a distant hartebeest. Lying
down at four hundred yards, I succeeded by a lucky fluke,
in breaking its two fore legs with my last cartridge. I
had to run it down, a hard job, as though badly hit, it
could still travel better than I, but it kept falling down,
and then I would gain. It was now about 5 p.m. and
instead of going for camp, perhaps four miles further on,
and sending back boys for the meat, I decided to load it
on my mule, which now came up, and tramp back, though
I was a bit fagged from my three hours ' hunt. The mule,
however, turned wicked at the sight of blood, or the smell
of it, kicked the syce, and broke away, so that we had to
carry back the saddle, as well as the meat and guns, and
turned in tonight (after a bath and a good feed) minus
a mule. T. had meantime knocked over a female thomp-
son gazelle, by mistake.
Smith's Shamba,10 September 3. Uneventful morning
along the Fort Hall trail for eighteen miles. Oh my poor
feet! Five porters of the fifteen whom I engaged at
Nairobi, ran away during the night, so we were short-
handed and it was a hard day for the safari. About nine-
thirty we came to the junction of the Chanya (twenty-
five yards) and Thika (twenty-five yards) Rivers, where
there was a beautiful fall of nearly one hundred feet.
Later, rain. At one-thirty we reached the ranch of two
settlers, Seth Smith and Thompson yclept -sturdy,
bronzed, charming chaps, who gave us a warm welcome,
inviting us to spend the rest of the day and to-night,
10 Shamba is the Swahili term for cultivation, but usually has the mean
ing of any place where people are living.

246 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
which we did, enjoying muchly their phonograph and a
hot bath.
Punda Malia, September 4. A most interesting day.
We moved the camp early, down into a wooded hollow
about five miles from Smith's Shamba, and pressed on
ourselves to get some buffalo, as it is reported a good
country for them. Abou't 7:30 a.m. we sighted a herd
of hartebeests, presently four giraffes within two
hundred yards, and then six eland (all cows, or I should
have tried a shot, despite the buffalo). Next, two female
bushbuck, then two wild boar. At nine, we spotted a one-
horned water-buck, and then, down to leeward, two rhino.
We crept around them in a wide circle and came up with
in thirty yards of them on our windward side, but they
had small horns, so we let them go; great lumbering,
truculent-looking brutes they were, too, in their full war
panoply. We scoured the country, but saw nothing more
except cow eland until four-thirty, when I decided to get
some meat for camp. I stalked to within one hundred
and fifty yar4s of a distant herd of hartebeests, but the
same long grass which had helped the stalking, hindered
the shooting, and I missed three times. At last I just
touched my bull on the run, bowling him over. Later I
wounded another, who, alas, got away, and then I came
upon another herd. I made a miss, and then knocked
another one over with my last cartridge (I didn't know
it at the time, thinking my gun boy had more, but they
were with the other reserve-gun-boy, whom I had sent
back to camp ) . Imagine my disgust when on going for
ward he got up with a broken shoulder and eventually
got clean away. T. got nothing, as it soon grew dark.
A snug camp. The search party sent out brought in my
mule tonight. Oh joy, oh rapture !
Later. The water here looked good, so we foolishly
didn't boil it, with the result we were both sick tonight
with a touch of dysentery.

two] SMITH'S SHAMBA 247
Punda Malia, September 5. Saw considerable game
this morn, but no buffalo (which we are laying for), nor
any fresh tracks. Had a couple of shots at a water-buck
at fairish distance, and banged him in the tummy. He
went up a long steep hill of one thousand feet or so, and
I stalked laboriously after, under a grilling sun, only to
see him perched on another hill a quarter of a mile away.
After a rest, I started after him again, but as he made off
in good style, I was too utterly fagged to follow him long.
I therefore rejoined T., and as it was twelve-fifteen, we
looked for water and a place to lunch and noon in. Find
ing none, we made the best of a hot gully. About 4
p.m. we picked up the trail of a bull buff, which we
tracked for some distance, and later saw three cows.
Half an hour after, I again saw them, and what I took
to be a bull. They were quite near, and while I was try
ing to make sure whether there was a bull, and if so, a
good head, my Swahili tracker assured me they were all
cows. A moment later they broke and dashed up over a
side hill. On examining the spoor, we decided that there
was a bull amongst them, so T. and I started after them
up the steep hillside, circling so that they wouldn't wind
us. Purple in the face, and puffing terribly, we topped
the crest at last -no buffs -they must have turned back
down the valley. Catching sight of a bushbuck nearby,
with a pretty little head, I let drive with my express (T.
and I having outstripped the boys with our light rifles).
The heavy shock lifted him several feet through the air,
and he fell in a tangled heap like a rabbit -stone dead
before the boy could get to him to cut his throat. We
had another unsuccessful look around for the buffs, and
made camp at 7 p.m., moonlight.
Smith's Shamba, September 6. T. not feeling up to
snuff, decided to rest and move the camp back five miles
to Smith's Shamba, incidentally getting meat for the
boys, so I went out alone today. About eight, I spotted

248 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
a small buffalo herd. They winded us first, and made off,
but I spotted the bull, and before they disappeared be
hind a clump of palms, made sure he had only a mediocre
head. The rest of the day was hard work, and uneventful,
except for two small-horned rhinos we put up. One
of them stuck to us for over an hour, and I thought we
should have to fight, but we eventually lost him. A long
day, bagged a water buck with rather a poor head. On
reaching Smith's Shamba (where we again received a
royal welcome) I found that T. had bagged a zebra for
the boys.
Having thought the matter over pretty thoroughly dur
ing the day, I decided to send the mules back to Nairobi,
sell them, and buy two ponies; then to strike north
for the plains of the Gwasa Nyro River, where there are
better heads, etc., than here (we have wasted three days,
and seen nothing of consequence), and where ponies
will be a tremendous help. While waiting for the ponies
(which I figure will take a week), organize a flying column
and make a camp in the heart of the buffalo country, and
get one or bust. Turned in at the scandalous hour of
ten, after songs and yarns.
I 'thanga River (Eight Yards) , September 7. Sent the
syce back to Nairobi at dawn with the mules and a note
to Newland asking him to keep them for me until I got
back, using them as his own, and to please buy me a
good pony and send it out here with bearer. Took a lei
surely start, and moved the safari four miles to Swift and
Rutherford's Shamba. Here we secured a nice pony for
T. and had tiffin and a pleasant visit. Left eight loads
here and pushed on six miles to the I 'thanga River,
where we made a snug side-hill camp. After tea, took
a look around the hills until dark. Heard a lion roar
ing. Spun a few yarns (T.'s twenty-three lion story)
and turned in early.

two] I 'THANGA RIVER 249
I 'thanga River (Eight Yards), September 8. Early
start in a fine rain, and a long hard day. Saw a good
deal of game in the wee small hours, including later a fair
buffalo, which I wish now I'd shot, but judged it not good
enough at the time. I hope a good head later will exoner
ate my forbearance. It was a temptation, as we have had
such bad luck so far with the buffs. I reckoned this one
to have a head between thirty-six and thirty-eight inches.
Some eland and roan antelope (not to be shot in Punda
Malia section) . About twelve got a bushbuck for chahoo-
la [food]. We halted for tiffin and a nap, by a most
charming water-lilied pool, in a rocky ravine, where we
enjoyed grilled buck-liver after a plunge. T. petered
out a bit before we got back to camp. It cleared off about
five and we had a splendid rainbow. These Swahilis are
ignorant beggars ; my gun boy didn't even know the name
for rainbow in his own language ! Early to bed.
I 'thanga Rivee (Eight Yards), September 9. Early
away, and a hard day ; am beginning to feel very fit, and
eating like a fiend. Bothered by rhinos a good deal in
long grass this morning. Is there anything much finer
than after tramping from six until twelve-thirty, the last
two hours under a grilling sun, and mostly through long
grass, to come suddenly upon an ice-cold mountain
stream ; there is a large pool, and you strip and plunge in,
splashing, and drinking, and soaking? Meantime, the
kidneys and liver of a delicious young reed-buck you
shot half an hour agone, are grilling over a fire, and you
come out and tuck in a meal that a viking wouldn't have
sneezed at. Then you stretch your tired limbs upon the
greensward, beside the tinkling waters, and let them
croon you into a short but refreshing nap, with their
mossy old legends of the woods. Bagged a cobus-cob dur
ing the afternoon. Rather an unusual buck in these
parts. No sign of buffalo fresher than yesterday. A
two-day-old leopard track. Early to bed. Tarlton -
feeling seedy -stayed in camp all day.

250 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
I 'thanga River (Eight Yards), September 10. Off at
six, and kept traveling until two-thirty, when I came upon
running water. T. turned back to camp at nine, and I
took a tremendous swing around and out into the hot,
thorny, open plain, which stretches away northwestward
from these hills. No fresh buffalo tracks. Hit a water-
buck, but he got away. Off again at three-thirty. At
four, I potted a good water-buck through the lungs, but
he gave us a chase for half a mile through thick bush,
long grass, rocks, and deep running water, where we
several times lost his spoor. Eventually I came up to
him, far-gone, in a shoulder-high pool under a beautiful
fall, where he had turned at bay -a beautiful picture, as
he is a magnificent animal about the size and build of a
Scotch stag, and I longed for a kodak. A very nice head
of twenty-four inches. I had a most refreshing dip in
the pool, after he had succumbed. On the way home,
came upon a rhino, rather suddenly, some thirty-five feet
away, in long grass. He charged, but as he didn't wind
us for a second or two, I had time to slip in my steel car
tridges and bowled him over like a rabbit as he came for
me. Poor horn of nineteen inches -but what could I do?
' ' The night was dark, and I was far from home. ' ' It was
six, forty-five, and pitch dark, before I reached camp.
I 'thanga RrvER (Eight Yards), September 11. Al
though an early start, we saw no buffalo or other men-
tionable game -being allowed but one eland, I am waiting
for a good one. About nine we came upon a beautiful
little rocky glen, where we had a smoke, and T. dug up a
lot of ferns and palms for Newland, his pal. Later, we
saw two rather small-horned rhinos. I wished to avoid
them, as I had already had to shoot one, and wished to
wait and make the only other I am allowed a good one;
but T. went up close and had to shoot at one which
charged. It got away but the other made things nasty
for quite a while, charging up and down in furious,

Water-buck
(By permission of Messrs. Underwood and Underwood)

FOET HALL 253

though futile attempts to locate our little party, which
had taken refuge huddled together on top of a giant ant-
heap. Back to camp at four-thirty, and had target prac
tice and sight-tinkering with my mannlicher, which is out
of kilter.
Fort Hall, September 12. Broke camp shortly after
seven and went in to Swift and Rutherford's Shamba,
where we picked up the loads we had left, and pushed on
to Fort Hall (fourteen miles further) a little settlement
with five white men and a few native troops, which we
reached at four. I walked all the way, but am hard now
and it didn't bother me. The first people we met were
three very pleasant German sportsmen11 just returned
from a successful go at buffalo, and an unsuccessful try
for elephant. We had tea with them and a pleasant chat,
and then (donning coats and neckties) went up to call on
the district commissioner, Mr. Readdie, to see about get
ting permission to go through some hostile country north
of Kenia 12 and generally to discuss routes. We had tea
here also, and then went to call on a very pleasant chap
named Ridley (a pal of Smith and Thompson) who was
11 The Deutechenkreutzers - Dr. Berger, Captain Rothe and Mr. Van
Dormer. They have a tent apiece, besides a dining tent, and small ones
for their boys. They have one hundred porters, and boys, trackers, gun
bearers, syces, and cooks galore, also thirty mules. Of course they are going
to be gone longer than I, and are besides wealthy men and older, so that
they are quite right in taking all sorts of comforts which I have omitted.
T. says mine is the smallest safari he has ever seen two men out with for
so extensive a trip (twenty-five porters) and yet I would scorn two-thirds of
what I have, were I shooting in Canada. Some chaps take phonographs,
wine-cellars, writing desks, dress clothes, and Heaven-knows-what-not on
safari. Dr. Berger showed us a big cylindrical steel box in which, he said
he carried alum, and volunteered the information that it weighed sixty
pounds (a full porter's load). On looking at the stuff, T. said, "Why the
alum alone must weigh nearly forty pounds," to which Berger replied,
' ' Whad you dink, I mean ze box, he yeigh sixty pound by himself ! ' '
12 T. has been eighteen years in the country, and is well known by every
body. He has a fine reputation, especially for dealing with savage tribes
in a skillful and peaceable manner, so that we may be able to go where
others would be denied.

254 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
badly mauled by a lion about a month ago.13 He was
cheerful but a bit blue, as regards his future, so we
cheered him up as best we could. As we were leaving,
Mr. Readdie came in, and took us back again to his boma
[stockade]. He has been eighteen years in the country,
and has done a great deal of hunting. A very sound
looking pony has arrived for me from Newland of Nairo
bi, together with a 22 Winchester-automatic and ammuni
tion for T. This is a bully weapon to shoot birds for the
pot with, in a game country, as it makes very little noise.
Discussed plans this evening.
Sultan Wambugu's, September 13. Rearranged loads
and overhauled supplies. Had another chat with our
German friends, called on Mr. Readdie, explained our
plans (Fort Hall to Nyeri, to Meru, to the Guasa Nyro),
and got a special permit, thanks to T., for the Meru Dis
trict. Called on Ridley, did some writing, and sprang
upon our foaming chargers at twelve-fifteen, closely fol
lowed by our safari. Reached this lovely spot at seven-
thirty, in total darkness, over eighteen miles of rough and
lumpy country. To bed at ten-thirty.
Nyeri, September 14. A luxurious start at seven-thir
ty, after a breakfast which embraced fresh eggs and milk
(a present from Sultan Wambugu, near whose village we
were camped). Our ponies are doing very well. The coun
try here is mountainous (Kenia looming up in all of the
majesty of eighteen thousand odd feet on our right), well
watered and forested, the valleys cultivated and popu
lated with pretty little basket villages, half hidden by the
greenery. We are constantly passing naked warriors,
painted and bedizened, and armed with spear and assegai,
with whom we pass the time of day, ' ' Neema Haru. ' ' The
Kikuyu men are a set of dandies, wiry but slender ; their
women do practically all the work, carry very heavy loads,
is Three chaps have been mauled quite recently by lions, one tossed by a
buffalo, and one has lost an arm in an encounter with a rhino.

A Kikuyu Village

Sultan Wambugu and the Ladies op his
Harem

(By permission of Messrs. Underwood and Underwood)

CHANYA RIVER 257

and are proportionately thicker set and stronger than the
men. They economize on wardrobe ; and morals are very
slack. Their worship is the propitiation of local devils.
At ten we came upon a swift ice-cold torrent from the
mountains, and had a dip, afterwards a smoke. At
twelve, we rested for an hour, 'neath a huge, shady tree
(off-saddling the ponies, as usual, for a roll and a graze),
and had some Suchard's chocolate and cold tea -Thermos
bottle. Pushed off into the jungle after lunch, and pres
ently, coming upon a large natural clearing, saw a small
hartebeest about two hundred and twenty-five yards off
which I dropped in its tracks. At two- thirty we reached
this little post, where there are only two white men. We
called upon Mr. Piggott, the assistant district commis
sioner, a very humorous fellow, and a sportsman, and
after a little visit, all went out together to get some meat.
Piggott had some shots, but bagged nothing. After one
miss, I drilled a water buck behind the shoulder, but lost
him in thick bush. T. was the hero of the day, bagging
a bushbuck, with a pretty shot through the head, cutlets
from which we all enjoyed this evening. We got back to
our prettily situated camp, after a long tramp, about
seven, tired, cold, and wet through from fording mountain
torrents. It is quite cool here tonight -five thousand,
eight hundred feet.
Chanya River (Sixteen Yards), September 15. We
got six extra boys (wild, painted Kikuyu tribesmen) to
carry extra food (mealy meal at Rs. 41/2 per load of sixty
pounds), for our safari, and started, after some delay,
with a sort of local guide, on the road to Meru. Met Cap
tain Hickson, of the KAR.'s out of Meru, just back
from a very successful safari and bound home. Among
his trophies were three good elephants and a fine buffalo.
As my pony is a bit restive, I find it rather difficult to
mount him, rifle-in-hand, especially as he has no mane.
The track led up and down over hilly country and through

258 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
thick, low, thorny woods. We are moving along the
southwest spurs of grand old Kenia, of whose ice-crowned
rocky peak we had some splendid views today. T. bagged
some pigeon with his 22-automatic. We reached a nice
camping ground by this mountain stream, about four, and
after a swim, went out separately for meat. I got into
villainous country and saw nothing except some apes. I
knocked one of these out of a tree to try my gun -the first
time I had used the 33 Winchester in Africa. T. got a
wart-hog, which charged him, and the incident made a
good yarn for dinner.
Tagesa River (Three Yards), September 16. Made an
early start, and after working up the wooded valley of
our camp came out on a flat open veldt, with nothing be
tween us and Kenia but a few miles of chilly atmosphere.,
The cold, windy morning made the men travel well, and
we struck camp in a clump of Mimosa-thorn trees by this
little stream at twelve, forty-five, after doing twenty-two
miles. At four we went out to look for meat. T. saw
nothing but a grant (which he secured), and I only a pack
of wild hunting dogs -ugly looking brutes they were, too.
Early to bed in a cold and windy camp.
By an unknown stream from Kenia (Two Yards),
September 17. Jolly cold last night, and a cutting wind
blowing as we turned out at five-thirty. The sun rose ex
actly behind the topmost peak of Kenia, a never-to-be-for
gotten sight, and by eight, things were warm again. Our
track today led over a flat high barren table-land (seven
thousand feet high) destitute of game. At ten-thirty we
came upon a small stream, and enjoyed a swim. At one,
tiffin, in a pleasant grove. We had off-saddled the ponies,
as usual, and today they repaid our kindness by wander
ing off for about a mile, whilst we were enjoying a smoke,
and we wasted some time in tracking them over the hard
ground and recovering them. Camp at four in a pretty
spot, and we are off immediately for meat. T. saw noth-

Crossing the Chanya River

A RUM-HOLE IN THE WOODS 261
ing, and I got only a zebra. There is a strange dearth
of game here for a part of the country where the grass is
so good. The boys say it is because of the hunting dogs.
The boys are very fond of zebra meat, and use the tough
hide to made sandals. Back to camp at seven-thirty in
leg-breaking darkness. Cold again tonight.
Unknown streamlet in the veldt (One Yard) about
eight thousand feet high, September 18. T. and I were
sick again last night. We made an early start, and the
boys, having had a good tuck-in of zebra meat, shoved
along right sturdily. We kept gradually ascending all
day over rolling veldt and through scrubby groves. Saw
no game except three distant grant gazelles, at one of
which I missed a long shot. We made camp in this gully
at four, and at five T. and I sallied out after some oryx,
which we spied on the horizon. We crawled and wrig
gled for over half a mile, and only got within about three
hundred yards at dusk. Two had nice heads, and after
repeated shots, T. lodged a bullet in one, and I succeeded
in banging another twice, but they both eluded us, thanks
to the swift-descending tropic night. Cold this even.
A bum-hole in the woods (no water), September 19.
Reaching out of my blankets this dark morn, an hour be
fore sun-up, I picked up a chunk of ice, which proved to
be my left-hand boot which had gotten full of water dur
ing the night ! Up still, and up, the track wound, till we
reached the highest spurs of Kenia (over nine thousand
feet). T. bagged a couple of bustards, with neat rifle
shooting and I secured a grant at long range. From this
high eminence we plunged down into dense equatorial
forests.14 Such places to take a horse through, I have
i* One of the most beautiful bits of primeval, jungle-forest I have ever
seen. Overhead, long thin wriggling branches, grape vines, lianas, and
graceful creepers, interlaced in a thick but delicate tracery, which, heavily
festooned with pendant moss, admitted only a pale green ethereal light.
One can easily see where man got Ms first ideas of the vaulted chamber
and the fretted ceiling. The great trees swelled aloft, sometimes as a
single massy bole, but more often as a giant Gothic column, a mass of

262 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
never seen, over great logs, through dense thorn coppices,
up and down steep slippery side-slopes, axes were in con
stant demand. T. and I were ahead, with the so-called
guide, whom we had long suspected of being a fraud. He
had promised that we should reach Meru by noon, but at
four, in a beast of a place, he vanished, and dusk found us
wallowing in a wind-fall -a tangled mass of fallen trees.
We decided to spend the night in our tracks - to camp was
impossible. Leaving T. to arrange matters, I hurried on
to see what lay before. We had been off the trail for sev
eral miles. A hard half-mile brought me to a little clear
ing, and though there was no water, I hurried back and
brought up the safari through the curse-productive dark
ness, leaving the horses (it being impossible to move
them) in charge of two askaris. I promised the whole
outfit a backsheesh of tobacco when we should reach the
post at Meru, as it had been a very trying day. We do
not know where we are. The so-called guide had told us
we should get to Meru this morning, and this, combined
with the decidedly eastern direction we have lately been
traveling in, made us think we might perhaps be on an old
overgrown trail to Embo. As the tribes between Meru
and Embo are hostile, and permission to travel through
that country can not possibly be obtained, this did not
tend to make our bivouac any more cheerful. Rolled up
in our blankets at ten.
Meru, September 20. At dawn, some wild spearmen
visited our bivouac, and not knowing of what tribe they
were, T. impressed a wholesome respect upon them by
some feats of gunnery, piercing empty milk cans in mid
air. Presently, however, we discovered, through one of
our men who spoke Meru, that this post was only four
hours away. Our guide put in a bedraggled appearance,
slender, tall, and perfectly straight stems. There was a profusion of flowers,
orchids, and flowering trees, thick hanging curtains of vines, and a bewild
ering profusion of trees, ferns of all sizes, and palms. Altogether, a
capital place for "The King of the Dwarfs" to dwell in.

A Glade in the Equatorial Forests
(By permission of Messrs. Underwood and Underwood)

MERU 265

and we sent him back with an axe to cut out the horses,
as punishment for deserting and losing us last night.
Took a leisurely start for Meru at eight-thirty. Passed
through numerous native villages and shambas, where we
were greeted by the sultan and escorted by several hun
dred spearmen to the central village. Here we were en
tertained with sugar cane, bananas, pine apples, palm-
wine, and raspberries. We had a talk with the sultan,
and some Wanderobo15 about elephant, and promised
them a reward if they should bring us authentic news of
the vicinity of any good tuskers. We then pushed on to
Meru. Here we found Lieutenant Span, of the King's
African Rifles, with eighty-six native soldiers, Home,
the commissioner, being out on a punitive expedition.
As he knows more about this country and game than does
Span (who has only been out three months), and as he is
expected back tomorrow, we have decided to wait for him.
We accordingly pitched camp near the bo ma [stockade],
had a swim, and looked over the shamba with Span, with
whom we dined and spent a pleasant evening.
Meru, September 21. Home came in this morning, as
did Brooke ( captain of K. A.R. 's) . Horne is a keen, small,
is Wild bushmen living by ones- and twos in the dim recesses of the for
ests entirely on products of the chase, fruit, and berries. They never form
communities or till the soil, but are occasionally hired by villagers to drive
away lions, rhino, elephant, or buffalo which have been carrying away people
or destroying the crops. For this guard duty, they receive pay either in
food or ivory. They horde the latter very jealously, burying the tusks, and
are said to have vast stores hidden in different parts of the country. They
kill elephants and rhino by means of poisoned dead-falls, using a vine or
creeper as a trigger. We saw a great many of these traps later while
hunting elephants, and narrowly escape setting some of them off. We
also saw many of their deep, disused pit-falls. They are fine specimens of
manhood, expert bushmen, and although silent and strange in their manners
are usually very hospitable and willing to lend their assistance and knowl
edge as trackers to the white man. It is said that two of them, armed
with spears, will, upon provocation, attack a lion or leopard; but I, myself
only know of one such actual case, and this was a leopard who had carried
off a child, the daughter of one, and the niece of the other, and whom they
came upon asleep. They succeeded in killing the leopard.

266 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
young chap of twenty-seven, and decidedly one of the
most energetic, as well as interesting men I have met.
He spent eight years knocking about Wyoming and Mon
tana, ranching and cattle punching. He has only opened
this station for the government three months ago, but he
has already done wonders : bringing in the natives, teach
ing them to work and to accept cash payments, building
his own stockade, house, office, and enclosure, his military
and police lines, a shamba for vegetables, etc., several
roads, and best of all a splendid irrigation ditch of three
and one-half miles through the hills -done, as he says
' ' By guess, by God, and by spirit-level. ' ' He knows his
people, their country, language, and ways,16 and is "dead
keen for work in the wilds," where there is no telegraph,
and he can act on his own responsibility. It takes a
month for him to get an answer from Mombasa. We had
a long morning's talk with him about game, routes, con
dition of the country, etc., and arranged for fifty more
local porters and pocha [food] to last the safari a month,
so that we can go down and make a permanent base-camp
somewhere on the Guasa Nyro River. We got rid of our
false guide, engaged a new one, bought a sheep, and spent
the rest of the day overhauling and repacking our outfit,
and reading Home's month-old magazines. In the even
ing, we five dined together in Home 's mud hut, and were
a very merry party. Brooke is just back from a week's
safari and has had rather fair luck. Home, himself, has
some fine trophies, one of his three elephants with tusks
averaging one hundred pounds, and a thirty-two inch
rhino ! Span had some interesting yarns of Ceylon, and
we reminisced about that beautiful isle, water buffalo,
rogue-elephants, pearls, etc.
is Among the Merus of the Meru and Embo District there is a sort of
society amongst the young bucks, called ' ' The Guru, ' ' wherein they pledge
themselves neither to wash, shave, know a woman, etc., until they have
killed their man. This makes traveling, and even pacification, rather a
ticklish job.

two] M'GUNGA LAKE 267
The hut was a small, low, three-roomed affair, with mud
walls and a thatched roof. They didn't quite meet in
places and you could see the stars shining through. The
door had no hinges, and was simply a sort of fence or
barricade pulled up in front of the opening. Home only
had a small table and four chairs, so he sat in a corner on
a small-packing box, eating from another. I don't be
lieve any of us had neckties, and of course no collars, yet
like a true Briton Home had taught his boys to serve the
meal as formerly as the most polite table-cloth-simperer
could demand. Cocktails were brought into the sitting-
room before dinner, two kinds of wine served, and dishes
always washed between courses, cordials and port placed
before us after the cloth was removed, the king and em
peror's health drunk standing (and President Roosevelt's
also, out of courtesy to me), and coffee and lights brought
into the other room when we had retired thither. The
dignity of this incongruous repast was slightly marred
when a couple of bold prowling hyenas scratched at the
ramshackle door. Home, T., and I jumped up, to the
peril of the soup, snatching spears, assegais and revolvers
from walls and hooks hoping to do for one of the ma
rauders, but they got off, thanks to the darkness.
Turned in at twelve, after a delightful evening.
M'Gunga Lake, September 22. Up late this morning.
Home came over for a chat, and a cup of chocolate.
Word of some elephants was brought in, but they proved
to be traveling towards Embo, which is forbidden, hostile
territory. By noon only five days' pocha had been
brought in by the natives, so leaving some of our porters
and loads at Meru in charge of two askaris, we decided
to go up to Lake M'Gunga (twelve miles away) for a day
or so, to look for elephants while waiting for the rest of
the pocha to be brought in. Home lent us a big ebony
giant, armed with a seven-foot Grecian lance -the sort of
thing that Hector and Sarpedon used to fling at Achilles

268 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
and Diomede with such fatal effect. Rather steep up-hill
work, the last through thick but beautiful forests, brought
us to this romantic spot at five. The tiny dark lakelet
lies deep below in the hollow of an old crater, in the midst
of forest and mountain. We have seen fresh elephant,
rhino, lion, and leopard tracks, but though we prowled
about 'til after dusk, we saw nothing else save a buck or
two and we wished to shoot nothing but the above or a
good buffalo, as we adjudged nothing else worth the al
most certain risk of frightening away the elephants.
Early to bed, in a cold, windy, and rainy camp.
Meru, September 23. Up at five, and off in a rainy
mist to see if by lying in wait, we could surprise anything
at its morning drink, but, except for fresh tracks, we saw
nothing but a bushbuck. We then worked around the
beautiful little lake, picking our tortuous way over its
quaggy borders, inside the crater. There was a pretty
little spring at the farther end, near which the whitened
bones and skull of a big bull elephant attested to the bet
ter luck of some former Nimrod. Meanwhile the gun
boys had been taking a wider circuit about the lake, also
looking for tracks. They presently brought us in tidings,
and by eight-thirty we were on a fresh elephant spoor.
About eleven we came up with the herd ; got, in fact, right
into the midst of a bunch of eighteen or twenty of them,
the jungle being so thick that neither party could see the
other. We had taken the proper precautions and had the
wind in our favor, but some fish-tail, or the fag-end of a
puff, gave them our scent, and they were off before we
could locate a good bull and get a shot. In spite of the
fine morning's rain, the ground was so dry in the forest
that even our big six-foot naked warrior, with his seven-
foot spear, found it impossible to track them. It is re
markable upon what velvet feet an elephant disappears.
The rest of the day was hard work, and uneventful, ex
cept that we found three fresh lion kills. We had left

two] KEENYALEELA RIVER 269
word for the safari to get itself back to Meru in case we
didn't return to camp by two. I am anxious to get into
the game country of the Guasa Nyro as soon as possible,
returning here for elephants after the middle of next
month when the rains will be on, and our chances much
better. I am getting rather worked up about our lack
of luck with buffalo, elephant, lion, eland, etc., which, with
kudu and sable antelope, are what I care most about.
This is evidently a good place for elephants in the rains,
as there are lots of old tracks and a great many fine
tuskers have been taken out. We were pretty well done
up when we finally reached the boma at seven-fifteen
(about thirteen strenuous hours on our feet), but some of
Home's beer and a pleasant evening soon made us forget
both fatigue and disappointment. Jolly cold tonight.
Keenyaleela River (Two Yards), September 24. As
the last of the pocha is not expected in until about nine
a.m., we didn't arise until six-thirty this morn. T. doc
tored an ingrown toe-nail, while I patched up a few of the
boys who had cuts, scratches, festers, thorns, toothaches,
or fevers. We procured a guide to the Guasa Nyro coun
try from Home, an ex- jail bird (the guide, I mean), got
thirty loads of matama flour which H. had been collecting
by driblets from the tribes during the past three days, ten
loads of rice from an Indian at the heartbreaking price
of eleven rupees per load, and forty wild Meru porters,
with the promise of ten more, loaded with flour, to catch
us up in the next day or ^o. Our plan is to work across
the barren, desert-like, intervening plains to the Guasa
Nyro via its tributary the Lekiundra River, and establish
a base of supplies for a couple of weeks at the Chanler
Falls on the former. The safari got off at twelve-thirty,
and we started ourselves, by pony, two hours later, after
a pleasant tiffin with H. As there was report of no water
farther on, we camped early at four, by this pleasant
little stream. Enjoyed a bath, and went out on the off-

270 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
chance of a bird before dinner (no other game hereabouts,
the country being too thickly populated with Meru, whose
shambas are almost continuous). T. got a pigeon with
his 22, and I a spur-fowl, with my paradox. Pleasant
evening by the camp fire -I have taught T. Wasting in
Despair, and Come Lift the Rosy Goblet High, and we
elucidate a rich strain of harmony from these and kin
dred songs. Early to bed.
Head Waters op Lekiundra River (Two Yards), Sep
tember 25. Off at six. Track winding through thick low
mapani forest, where branches and creepers interlacing
thickly overhead made a perpetual green twilight. Went
ahead with my gun, but saw nothing. Later, on the dry
open veldt, we bagged some baby-blue doves (nice eat
ing), T. doing most of the work. We are still among the
shambas, and shan't be in the game country proper until
tomorrow's camp. As we have so many new porters
whom we don't wish to discourage by overwork, and are
anxious for the aforementioned ten to catch us up, we
camped early today (shortly after noon) as soon as we
struck the head waters of the Lekiundra River. Enjoyed
our usual bath. We haven't been observing Sundays of
late, but " Cleanliness is next to Godliness." After tea
went out and bagged three brace of guinea fowl in spite
of my villainous shells, which are crimped and old. T.
did the like. Early to bed. Windy camp.
Lekiundra River ( Two Yards) , September 26. Bagged
a couple of brace of guinea fowl each this morning, and
sent half a dozen back to Home by a runner. The local
sultan, Ndaminuki, brought us in some eggs and milk,
which we enjoyed hugely for breakfast. He still wears
the battered white helmet which Neumann gave him, and
has proudly borne behind him by a retainer an old Snyder
rifle, which Neumann also gave him, but without any am
munition. We didn't get away this morning until six,
forty-five. The track wound down over rolling, scrubby,

two] LEKIUNDRA RIVER 271
burnt-out plains, covered with sharp, loose stones, very
bad for the horses' feet, and painful for the porters. As
we are much lower (four thousand feet, I should say),
than on the eighteenth instant, Kenia, though farther
away, looks much higher. About ten-thirty, T. and I,
jogging along behind the safari, espied a huge rhino am
bling across the plain to windward. There was a very
strong wind blowing and making a great noise among the
dry thorn scrub, so that we rode up to within one hun
dred yards in perfect safety, he neither hearing nor smell
ing us and facing the other way. He seemed to have a
very good head, and as T. didn't care about it, I decided
to have a go myself. As I only had my paradox (soft-
nosed bullets), I borrowed T.'s 350 Rigby-Mauser, a cor
dite, and walking up to within fifty yards, planted a steel
behind his left shoulder. He gave a frightful snort and
a stagger, but did not fall ; in fact, being still unable to
locate us, he started off at speed. I gave him another in
the flank, and one in the buttock, as he turned away from
us, T. blazing away with my paradox, peppered him with
soft-noses in the hind quarters. Presently he stopped
and faced around, looking rather nasty, and evidently
feeling pretty sick, so I decided to wait for boys with
the heavy guns. Armed with my 450, I cautiously ap
proached the truculent bicornate, and, just as he started
a final furious charge, tucked a steel into his right shoul
der. He fell to his knees, and I was able to put another
exactly beside it, which made him collapse utterly. Upon
measuring, his horns proved to be twenty-three and three-
quarters inches. These horns, though good, are not re
markable, but T. said it was the biggest bodied animal
he had ever seen out of a total of say five hundred. In
order not to make it too far for the boys to go back for
the meat, head, feet, and skin, we camped two miles further
on, in a villainous place, beside this muddy little stream.
Miserable picking for the ponies. A strong gusty wind
filled our ears, eyes, and noses with sand and ashes (the

272 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
plains about here are all burnt over), to say nothing of
the food, boxes, and bedding. At four we sallied out to
get meat for ourselves, and if possible a zebra for the
boys, as their feet were in bad shape, owing to the rocky
nature of the country. Luckily we came on a herd, short
ly after leaving camp, and T. and I each hit one in the
fore-shoulder, but without fatal effect. While following
them up, I bagged a little stein-buck for ourselves (most
excellent tack, they are, too), and I eventually polished
off my zebra. As there was a rhino with a toto [young
one] in the background, we had to guard the men while
they cut up the zebra, and we then took a long swing
around looking for lion tracks, as it seems a likely coun
try, sending the men back to camp. We saw some tracks,
but no lion, and got back to camp after dark, to enjoy
a most excellent dinner as follows:
Savory
Fish on biscuit
Soup
A la buckhead
Roast
Onions, Guinea fowl, Potatoes
Releve
Sheep's brains on toast
Pudding
Tapioca pudding with apricots
Cocoa and Cheese
Bananas Cigars
I administered twenty lashes to Jeramba, my second
gun boy, for carelessness, disobedience, and sulkiness
(only today he had broken the edge of our best axe by
using it to chop bones with, contrary to orders). Very
dirty in camp tonight.
Lekiundra River (Three Yards), September 27.
Walked along ahead of the safari on foot this morning,

*

gas* X>

\v

Meru Porters curing Meat in Camp on the Lekiundra
River
(By permission of Messrs. Underwood and Underwood)

LEKIUNDRA RIVER 275
till about nine-thirty (when I mounted) and saw consider
able game -zebra, thompson gazelle, ostrich, duiker, and
female impala, rather surprising in this desert region.
About nine, saw a very fair oryx by himself, but the
country was too open to admit of stalking, and the blight
er already had our wind and wouldn't let me nearer than
about three hundred and seventy-five yards, at which
range I missed him, lying down, and he made off. Later
I secured a rather nice grant gazelle and two brace of
guinea fowl. At twelve-fifteen saw an impala-buck with
some ewes, and stalking to within about one hundred and
eighty yards, I drilled him in the tummy. He seemed
hard hit, and left the herd, but could still keep out of my
range. After about a mile and a half of gruelling work
under a blazing sun, and over sharp, stony country, I
espied three good looking buck oryx. I accordingly left
the impala to his own devices, and tried to stalk the oryx.
They caught sight of me, however, and started to move
off, so I sat down on a stone and fired twice at the best one,
a bit low, reckoning the distance at three hundred yards.
Taking a little more fore-sight, I dropped him stone dead
in his tracks, with a bullet through the base of the neck,
and paced the distance off at three hundred and seventy-
four yards (a thirty-one and one-half inch horn). There
was a rhino in the near foreground, up wind, so made
quick work of the skinning. A female grant strolled
past, as Juma, my head gun boy, and I were hard at it,
and passed the time of day with us. T. with the safari
went on about a mile, and then camped, as I was going for
the impala, and I reached them at two-thirty, with a very
creditable thirst, attendant upon such hot weather, and
quenched it with soda, claret, and lime juice (not bad
swigging). 0, for a draught of vintage ! that hath been
Cool'd a long age in the deep-delved earth,
Tasting of Flora and the country green,
Dance, Provencal song, and sunburnt mirth!

276 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
The camp is near a great swamp, which seems a likely
place for the wily simba [lion], more especially as we
have seen fresh tracks and fresh kills nearby. Went out
again at four-fifteen, but no luck. Beautiful fiery sunset,
followed by a thin silvery crescent, hanging in a lemon-
colored sky. Back to camp at six-thirty.
Lekiundra River (Three Yards), September 28. De
cided to keep the camp here today though the water is
awfully muddy. T. and I turned out at five and prowled
around till eight-thirty, on the lookout for the wily simba.
We saw nothing but two impala, and they were wild and
quite unapproachable in this bare, open country. After
breakfast, some Masai17 dropped in with a present of
17 A great people scattered through German East Africa, British
East Africa, Uganda, and Central Africa. They are herders of cattle,
hunters, and warriors, and are held in as much awe and fear by the other
tribes of Central and East Africa as are the Zulus in the south, and the
Somalis in the north. They are a free, manly, independent race, hospitable
and generous to strangers but absolutely untamable, being of too nomadic
and roaming a disposition ever to submit to labor-laws or taxation. They
have many strange customs, such as spitting in a stranger's face to show
favor, instead of disgust; smoking their milk; and coming and going with
no word of greeting or farewell. They are an intelligent, capable sort of
people, and reported very brave. Two of them, armed with spears, will, it
is said, tackle a lion.
The young men of this tribe who do most of the fighting and correspond
to "The Braves" of our own North American Indian tribes, are called
"Elmorani," and where they have gone on a war path large sections of the
country are depopulated and returned to their jungle existence. Whole
tribes -men, women, and children -are literally " stamped out," to use
their own expression, and the cattle driven off to swell the Masai herds.
It is only within the last ten years that white men have been able to pene
trate their country and establish friendly relations. They have learned to
feel a very wholesome respect for rifles and machine guns, but there is no
fear or cringing in their attitude to the white man, whom they regard as
equals, not masters. A few days before I left Nairobi a planter was killed
by some Masai, in German East Africa, for trespassing on their domain to
procure honey. Their custom of burying is a queer one, repulsive to us,
but in reality, and when looked at from a broad-minded viewpoint, as sen
sible and practical as that of the Parsee "Towers of Silence." The bodies
of the dead are placed outside the "kraal" by the friends and relations,
and as darkness descends, the shadowy wolfish forms of the ever-ready hy
enas come slinking out of the jungle with their horrible nerve-trying wails

two] GUASA NYRO RIVER 277
some smoked milk in leathern jugs. They are the finest
chaps physically I've seen in Africa. T. presented the
chief with our extra file and a buck which he had shot
yesterday. T. felt a bit fagged and stayed in camp all
day. He lost one eye-piece of his binoculars a few days
ago, and being a remarkably handy sort of a chap, busied
himself in making a very serviceable new one out of a
section of an old impala horn which he picked up. I went
out alone and tramped about from ten until two, but was
unable to get within anything like range of anything,
though I saw an impala and one nice oryx among a lot of
zebra, oryx, granti, and giraffe. Finally got my impala.
It has been awfully hot the past few days, as we are get
ting lower all the while. I managed to get cool this after
noon by taking a bath in a windy place, and changing into
pajamas. Our extra ten men, with pocha, arrived today,
in charge of another petty chief. All these wild Merus
seem anxious to bolt, as they are not accustomed to carry
ing loads nor educated up to appreciating money. We
will have to keep a careful watch tonight. Went out
again at four-fifteen, and sat down in some reeds at the
edge of a swamp until sundown, but nothing came up to
drink which was worth shooting, except a very tidy
grant, whom I laid low. Beautiful balmy evenng. Our
guide and interpreter, the ex-jailbird, reports that the
second chief or head man (he who came with the ten ex
tra Merus) is breeding mutiny and sedition amongst the
others. Early to bed.
Guasa Nyro River (Thirty Yards), September 29. T.
had a most remarkable dream last night about knife-
and hideous laughter, to devour them. These living tombs are the un
doubted foundation for the legends of the Ghouls, which curdle one's
youth. The Masai are also very fond of drinking the warm blood of their
cattle, and that there undoubtedly are tribes in Africa who drink human
blood (the warriors opening a vein in the back of the neck of their wives)
substantiates the vampire myth.
Some of their chiefs own thousands of head of cattle and sheep and
goats. They would be accounted rich men anywhere.

278 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
throwing, which heralded in a rather interesting scene.
At six, just as we were about to start, we found that our
Merus were in open revolt. We tried both threats and
cajolery, but they were too untamed or too obstinate to
care for our offers of backsheesh, and replied to our
threats that we might beat them as much as we liked, but
that they wouldn't carry farther for us. One chief start
ed leading them Off, the other seemed neutral; in fact,
rather desirous of sticking to his contract, if he could do
so without too much loss of prestige in the tribe. It
looked like a fight, and of course, if we had shot one or
two, as they ran off, it would probably have had the de
sired effect upon the others ; but aside from many other
excellent reasons, dead men cannot carry loads, and we
wanted them all, if possible. Now the Masai chief, with
three of his men, happened to be in camp, having brought
over some delicious fresh milk for us, and it occurred to
T. to let slip these dogs-of-war. He therefore pointed to
the vanishing Merus, and said, "Leetal" [bring]. A
slow smile dawned upon their strong expressive faces, as
who should say: " Will you really allow us this little bit
of fun? " The Masai chief gave a shout to attract the
attention of the Merus, and then those four tall warriors
strode towards the fifty mutineers, brandishing their
spears. It was like letting loose Achilles amidst the rank
and file of the Trojan army, or Iroquois braves upon
Delawares. Although the Merus all had spears, and
either knives, assegais, or clubs, whereas the Masai had
only spears, yet they remained waiting in a huddled, help
less mass, and allowed themselves to be driven up to us
like so many sheep. The spell of the great Masai name
was upon them. They hadn't the pluck to fight, and they
knew that if they tried flight, the swift-footed Masai could
easily run them down. As he came up to me, the Masai
chief grinned and tapped me on the shoulder, and then
slapped his own broad, bare chest as much as to say, "We
are men, the white man and the Masai, but as for these

two] GUASA NYRO RIVER 279
cattle, bah ! ' ' and he eyed the flinching Merus, and scorn
was in his eye. We disarmed the malcontent chief, tied
him to one of our askaris, loaded up the Merus, and started
off. The Masai helped themselves with childish glee
to some discarded milk tins, and silently took themselves
off. We told the Merus that now we had their chief, they
might run away, if they liked ; but that, in that case, we'd
give him a bully good hiding, and tell Home to make it
three for them all when they got back to Meru. They
stuck to their loads, so we reached this river at noon.
After tiffin we paid off the Merus, and sent them back to
the Meru Post with some trophies and a full explanatory
note to Home, which expressed a hope that he would give
the old scalawag of a chief a good hide-warming. They
absolutely refused to go to Chanler Falls with us, or in
deed any farther, unless we forced them; so we thought
best to make our base-camp here, and let them go, as we
did not wish to stir up any trouble with the natives for
Home in his district. It was blisteringly hot all morn
ing, across flat, sandy, thorny plains, we must be quite
low now. The Guasa Nyro is a swift, muddy, waist-deep
stream, which, fringed with palms, coarse grass and eu
phorbias, flows through this barren desert. While camp
was being struck I took a stroll down the shore and shot
a crocodile, basking on a sandy islet. Horrible, deadly
creatures, they are! Fished with moderate success un
til four-fifteen, when (T. feeling slack) I went out in the
hope of a gerenuk.18 I saw what I thought was one, made
a careful stalk, and dropped it dead in its tracks at one
hundred and forty yards. Imagine my horror at finding
it to be a female grant! Got back to camp at six, forty-
five -crescent moon -having seen nothing more but zebra
and giraffe. Weird beasts, these latter, especially when
they leer at you over the top of a tall Mimosa.
is A rare and very shy little gazelle, with a small lyre-shaped horn, and
a long neck. Its genus name is, I think, Waller's gazelle. The Swahilis
call it tweega kidogo - small giraffe. It feeds on the leaves of the aloe
tree, standing up on its hind legs to get at them like a goat.

280 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
Base Camp, on Guasa Nyro River, October 1. Yester
day, just as we were starting for Chanler Falls, leaving
about twenty-five loads of pocha, cached here in charge
of an askari and a porter (temporarily laid up with fes
tered thorn-wounds in their feet), one of the askaris re
ported that he had heard a lion roaring nearby during the
early morning watches. We decided, therefore, to strike
off in that direction, with a gun-boy apiece and the syce
(although lions are such an uncertain quantity that we
hardly expected to find them) joining the safari later en
route for Chanler Falls. We struck fresh spoor about
half an hour from camp, and they led us back to a dense
thicket on the Lekiundra River, about three miles south
of camp. Here we dismounted, finding very fresh drop
pings as well as the spoor. We poked about the edges
of the thicket for some time, and finally went through a
thin place and crossed the stream on a fallen log, work
ing back on the opposite side to the spot opposite to where
the spoor had entered the thicket. We were carrying our
expresses, as although light rifles are preferable for lion
in the open, where the chances are you will get a long
shot, yet the thick thorny scrub here, and knee-high grass,
made us wish to take every precaution. Suddenly a
stick broke, and we faced quickly about. The lions had,
of course, seen us long before, but had lain quiet until
now, either in the hope of getting away unnoticed, or of
making a neater job of us when we were almost upon
them. There was a succession of roars, grunts, and
growls, both in front of us and behind, and then they ap
parently broke cover; the first thing we saw being two
lions. I fired at one, getting him in the fore-shoulder,
and he disappeared. T. took the other, but I was too
busy to notice. I heard him say quite coolly, " Well, I've
got one, anyway." He afterwards told me that he had
bagged his in the chest, and saw him fall over and kick,
apparently in the death agony. All now became still,
directly in front of us. As it was impossible to go down

two] BASE CAMP 281
and across to where we thought our lions lay without ex
posing ourselves to the attack of any more who might be
in the thicket, we worked back again on our tracks to
where crackling bush told us the others had taken refuge.
I felt as though I were walking on exposed nerves, though
T. seemed cool enough -he has already accounted for
seventeen lions. Suddenly a terrible roar about twelve
feet off in the bush at our left, made us whirl around and
edge slowly backwards, as we expected a charge from the
lioness. T. saw her first, but offered me the shot (a
thing which we afterwards agreed never to do again in
the case of dangerous game), and while I was trying to
locate her vitals through the bush, she thought better of
it and vanished. A minute later a half -grown cub broke
cover, and dashed off across the stream. I threw up my
gun, but T. said, "Help, we'll have the lioness on us in a
flash! " so I let it go. We prowled about for a quarter
of an hour, but put up nothing more, so returned to the
place where we shot the lions. Here we found broken
branches and clawed up soil, but no blood and no corpses.
T. figured out that his lion had gone off to the left to die,
and mine to the right. The syce had seen, from the other
side of the stream, a lion and lioness and two cubs get
clean off to the right, while another lion had come out,
fallen down, and then made off to the left. Although we
had but slight hopes, we poked about in the very heart of
the thorny scrub for another half hour. The river bed
was about six feet below the general surrounding level,
and tangled over with an almost impenetrable mass of
thorns, bush, osiers, euphorbia, and rank grass. Sudden
ly T. caught sight of a lion and lioness, just ahead of us
in the tangle. He fired at both, killing the lion with a
bullet in the head, and getting the lioness in the fore-leg.
She was tearing about so that we couldn't get another
shot from here, and as it was too thick to push in farther,
we tried around the other side, where I finished the lion
ess off with a 450 in the body, and a final nine m.m. coup-

282 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
de-grace through the neck, at almost too close quarters.
We spent another hour looking for the others, but no luck,
so went in to skin these two, sending the syce off to bring
back the safari. What was my joy to find the lion with
another 450 in his shoulder. T. said it was the one I had
first shot as he had only fired once at this one. Although
he is a far better shot than I, I think it undoubtedly was
mine, and felt very pleased, as it seemed quite a good one.
The lioness was, of course, his, by the same sportsman's
law of " First Blood." We skinned them in the thick
scrub where they lay, so that the skins would not be in
jured by the sun. The greatest danger to skins in a
tropic climate is the danger of sunburning, which blotches
them, and makes the hair come off after curing. As we
were finishing the lion, I crawled out to get a breath of
fresh air and a drink. I saw a herd of oryx close by, and,
making a careful stalk, bagged what I thought was one
of the three best heads, at two hundred and fifty yards
through the neck. Imagine, then, my disgust, on strolling
proudly up, to find a female ! I hit a big male in the tum
my after following the herd for another mile or so, but he
got up again and eventually got clean away. On the way
back to the Lekiundra, I picked up a grant, with a rather
neat shot through the lungs moving at one hundred and
ninety yards, after first hitting him in the rump, and then
scoring a miss. Meanwhile the ponies, who had behaved
like bricks during the battle, had wandered off, and we
were rather in a fix; as we had, as usual, off- saddled
them, and what with all the guns, the syce's load of horse
blankets, and the skins and skulls of the lions, we were
heavily laden. It was now 1 p.m. and we spent until
three-thirty on empty stomachs and under a hot sun, try
ing to find them. Then T. started for our last night's
camp, hoping they might have gone back, as the grass
there was very good (for Africa). I went back and got
the two gun-boys, and we loaded ourselves up with the
two skins and skulls, the grant's head, the blankets, sad-

two] BASE CAMP 283
dies, bridles, and guns, and followed T. into camp. We
were mighty glad to find the ponies there, as I was afraid
lions would get them; and then good-bye to Rs.900, be
sides many a weary mile for us to foot in hot noondays.
The safari had not put in an appearance and we had no
food, and what was worse, no alum for the skins, which
require most delicate handling and would be sure to go
wrong if not treated speedily. I went off accordingly at
five-fifteen, and luckily came soon upon a female defassa
water-buck, which I gratefully shot and lugged a big hind
quarter back to camp.
Today, we went out for buffalo, but being very tired
with our hard yesterday, and finding no tracks very fresh,
came back about eight-thirty to breakfast off grilled
water-buck kidneys, and liver. T. made a fish hook out
of a nail, but had no luck. We rested all day until four,
loafing, fishing, shooting crocodiles, dozing, pegging out
the skins in the shade, and even taking a bath in the shal
lows, despite the crocs. I was still footsore, so T. went
out alone at three and bagged an impala. At four-thirty
the safari turned up. The head man and some boys, with
about twenty loads, stayed where they were, as per in
structions, as we expect to go on down the river in a day
or so, after curing the lion skins. From five until seven
we were both out, looking for lion or buffalo. Fresh
tracks, but no luck. Came in by moonlight feeling very
faint, but a good meal bucked me up. Lions roaring again
this evening. The lion is an awful bore,
Who loves to dabble in your gore,
And if, perchance, he wants a feed
He'll bite your leg and make it bleed.
Children, when they say their prayers,
Can hear him clumping up the stairs,
And though they scream, and call for nurse,
It only makes the matter worse!

284 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
Base Camp, October 2. Very warm last night. The
last five or six nights have been, in fact, unpleasantly hot,
and the ticks, jiggers, fleas, and mosquitoes have been
making their presence felt. Took a cup of cocoa and
started off to look for buffalo at five-ten this morn, in
tending to come back for breakfast about eight-thirty.
Came upon some lion tracks, however, so kept on. Lost
these in rocky country, but later picked up fresh spoor
of what seemed a large herd of buffalo. Followed these
over the hot, stony plains, and through thick, devilishly
thorny scrub, which tore us into tatters, trying to find
a swamp or shady accasia grove where they would lie up
during the heat of the day. We climbed trees and hil
locks, scouring the plains with our glasses; we tramped
the country flat, but all would not do. We couldn't
travel as fast as they, and couldn't find their lying-up
place. At twelve-thirty empty, tired, dusty, and footsore, we
started for camp, separating shortly afterwards -I going
over the hills to try for a buck, and T. striking directly
down to the river for a swim. Hardly had I left him
when a big, lone, buff bull broke cover from an island in
mid-stream and dashed off. T. (about one hundred
yards off) hit him with a flying shot somewhere in the
hind quarters. I heard the report, and ran back. There
was enough blood to track, so off we went with our big
guns at full cock. About three miles farther on, and
across the river, we came upon him in a thickly under-
grown palm grove. Just as he started to charge, T. hit
him in the face, and I downed him with one in the shoul
der. T. then finished him off, which required another
in the shoulder, one in the tummy, and one clink through
the heart ! These great brutes take a lot of killing -more
so than almost anything else in the world. He had a
very pretty head, with a spread of forty-three and one-
half inches, and measured five feet three inches at the
shoulder. We sent a boy back for porters to bring us

Looking for Buffalo
(By permission of Messrs. Undenrood and Underwood)

BASE CAMP 287

ponies and much needed food, and to carry back the
mighty head, skin, feet, and meat. We pushed on our
selves with renewed vigor to look for more, but a tempt
ing sand bank, free of crocs, soon lured us to a delicious
bath. Seeing no more tracks for three miles further up
the river, I bagged a small wart hog who presented him
self, with a raking shot through the fore-shoulder. We
got back to the buffalo at 4 p.m., had a hearty break
fast, and rode back to camp which we reached at six-fif
teen, moonlight. Enjoyed a hot soap-bath, and doctored
my feet and some of the porters. Early to bed.
Base Camp, October 3. Lions roaring last night.
Away at five-ten on a cup of tea -but taking along a
loaded tiffin basket today, to which we did ample justice
at eleven-thirty and three-thirty. Got on buff tracks at
about eight. At eight-thirty came up with the herd in
thick scrub. I covered a bull which I could only see
indistinctly, while T. looked with his glasses to see if it
was good enough to shoot. We each saw only one bull,
but they unfortunately proved to be different ones, as
there were two in the herd. T. said it was a very good
one, and though mine looked small, I took his word and
biffed mine in the chest. T. then fired also, but in the
press and the dust raised by the stampeding herd, he
missed his bull and killed a cow. By comparing notes
we then found that I had shot the smaller bull, and so left
him to his own devices, and followed the herd in the hopes
of another shot at the big one. Blistering hot! Almost
bumped into a herd of about fifteen giraffes upwind.
The thorn scrub and euphorbias were so thick that neither
party saw the other till we were within ten or twelve
yards of them. There were a couple of good bulls, but
I had made up my mind that I wouldn 't shoot any giraffes -
they look such nice people. It is true that they furnish
the porters with lots of meat and good rawhide for san
dals, but they are very easy to get in this thick scrubby

288 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
country and carry no mentionable trophy. We accord
ingly watched them bob about a minute and then clatter
off in their ridiculous rocking canter which covers the
ground, however, at a tremendous rate of speed. Later,
as we were following the buffalo spoor, a young rhino
charged furiously in thick bush, and almost got one of
the boys, so that I was forced to shoot. I hit him in the
lungs and he went over like a rabbit at about four paces
distant. He was only half-grown with a six-inch horn,
but being about the size of a steam roller, was, of course,
quite capable of cleaning out our whole outfit. He fright
ened the porters half to death, and it took about five
minutes to collect our five men around us again. Juma
proved staunch. We left him to the jackals, hyenas, and
carrion kites for his impudence. Eventually we lost the
spoor of my buffalo, as the place was all tracked over
with hundreds of old prints. About 4 p.m. we heard a
lion groan about one hundred yards through the scrub,
but he must have seen us first, for we never got a glimpse
of him. We found the tracks, however, of four or five,
and figured that they were also out hunting buffalo.
Got back to camp at five-thirty. I went out for meat,
and soon came upon a female grant whom I bowled over
at one hundred and fifty yards through the neck. While
I was out, T. was fishing, with good luck. Broke the am
ber mouthpiece of my favorite pipe as a sort of grand
climax to an unlucky day. Early to bed. Oh for the
wings of a dove, or even for the pinions of a half -grown
vulture, that I might see where my poor old buffalo lays
his weary head tonight !
Base Camp, October 4. Off at five-fifteen. Decided
to pay a call on the carcasses of our friends, young Mr.
Rhino, and Lady Buffalo, on the off-chance of a lion still
lingering over his breakfast there. We approached Mr.
Rhino first, converging upon him from different points ;
but surprised nothing except vultures. We then pushed on

two] BASE CAMP 289
to Mrs. Buff, in the same manner. My line of approach
brought me up first. When about twenty yards off, I
thought I saw something on the body, and knelt silently
down. The next moment the grizzly head of a big old
lion rose from behind the buff and looked me in the
eye. As he gathered himself for a spring I drove a soft-
nose 450 through the center of his skull, between the eyes,
and he fell over stone dead with his feet up. However, I
gave him another for luck, remembering our experience
with T. 's buff. He proved to be larger than the first, nine
feet, three and one-half inches, before skinning. He was
a villainous old wastrel, his teeth being well worn down,
showing that he had taken his toll of life. As the Masai
had told us that they had lost a man and a couple of chil
dren through lions during the past months, I think he was
probably the offender. We skinned him at once, took it
back to camp, pegged it out, and treated it with alum and
arsenical soap, so as to give it no possible excuse to go
wrong. On the way back a huge rhino, with a poor horn
(perhaps fifteen inches), whom I took to be the bereaved
father of our impetuous young friend of the day before,
made himself rather unpopular with our porters. He
had evidently heard us, but kept charging about, unable
to place us, the wind being puffy and all rhinos having
poor eyesight. Luckily we were able to get away with
out having to shoot. After breakfast, eleven, forty-five,
and a delicious swim, I donned a silk shirt and lounged
gracefully in the shade, making a new stem for my pipe.
We have had the porters make us a grass banda, or
porch, in front of our tent, which is much cooler than be
ing under canvas. Read Hypatia until 3 p.m. when
we had tea and some delicious cold buffalo tongue, and
sallied forth to look for lions, the boys having heard
some roar in the direction of the Lekiundra River. De
cided to leave the buffalo alone for a day. Back at six,
forty-five, with no luck, though we stoned or crept

290 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
through all the dense coppices for several miles along the
stream. Early to bed.
Base Camp, October 5. Heard lions roaring at inter
vals, most of the night. Off at five-twenty, on a cup of
tea. Approached the buff carcass (which we had covered
with thorn bushes to keep off the vultures) in the same
manner as yesterday. When about thirty-five yards off
I stooped down and peered at it through the bushes. I
thought I caught a momentary glimpse of something
tawney, but Juma said he saw nothing but vultures and
a couple of the beautiful maribou storks. On looking
more closely I was of the same opinion, but crept forward
none the less cautiously. At fifteen yards distance, a
big lioness suddenly sprang off the body and dashed into
the bush. As she did so, I threw up my gun and fired,
aiming instinctively as one does at snipe, without drawing
a bead. The bullet drilled through her hind quarters,
breaking her back. She raised up on her fore paws and
turned snarling towards me as I ran forward to finish
her off. Then I heard T. fire, and a growl from my left
showed me that there were more lions about. I put
another bullet between the shoulder blades of my plung
ing lioness, and turned to see T. chasing another lioness
off into the bush and long dry grass. He had hit her
somewhere behind as she was making off. We chased
her for about three hundred yards, when she decided that
it wasn't good enough and suddenly turned and charged
furiously. T. instantly broke her shoulder with a clean
shot, which, however, did not stop her. She came on so
slowly however that I simply covered her, letting T.
finish her off, which took four more. I wish I could de
scribe the splendid picture she presented -for, though
crippled, she came on gamely and fiercely enough, and we
longed for a kodak; as it would have made a magnifi
cent and absolutely unique photograph. I got the full
benefit of this thrilling spectacle as T. was busy pump-

two] BASE CAMP 291
ing lead into her, while I simply acted as reserve. The
gun boys had not been able to keep up with us in our
mad dash after the critter! T.'s sixth bullet, the last
in his magazine, left her dead within three paces of
us. The others, if there were any more, got away dur
ing the confusion. My lioness measured eight feet, two
and a half inches, and T.'s seven feet, nine and a half
inches. We skinned them and returned to camp by ten-
thirty, after re-covering up the remains of useful Mrs.
Buff. The safari turned up at noon today. We sent for it
yesterday, after I got my second lion, as the country
hereabouts seems so good that it was unprofitable to
push on down to Chanler Falls. Loafed in camp, attend
ing to the skins, swimming, and reading 'The Tale of Two
Cities until three-thirty, then went out and shot a defassa
water-buck for meat (poor head, nineteen and one-half
inches). At four-fifteen we tramped over and revisited
our two lion baits, but found nothing. Got back to camp
at seven in beautiful moonlight. Early to bed.
Base Camp, October 6. Away at five-thirty. Nothing
at baits. A long, hard, hot, fruitless day after buffalo.
Came upon a rhino in the scrub, and T. recklessly shied
stones at him. Luckily he made off, being either unable
to locate us, or else more timid than most of his kind. T.
missed a water-buck for meat, but got a goose with his
22, and later an oryx (fairish head -twenty-six and one-
half inches).
At midday I tinkered up a broken pair of boots with
some wire nails, using a stirrup-iron as a last. Also
made a fly brush for my pony out of a zebra tail. Came
upon the skull of a crocodile, in a big swamp, we were
beating for buffalo, and knocked some of its huge teeth
out. They are about the size and shape of fingers. This
particular swamp was formed by a beautiful mineral

292 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
spring, pooled in a limestone nullah. Back at seven-
twenty by moonlight. Early to bed.
Base Camp, October 7. Heard lions grunting last
night, which shows they were feeding. They only roar
when hunting. While we were washing, about 5 a.m.
this morn, heard a buffalo bellow about half a mile away,
and hastily swallowing some tea and porridge, we hur
ried out after him. He was gone, however, before we
got to the swamp where we had heard him. We worked
over to the Lekiundra, and stoned all the caves and thick
ets along it for a couple of miles, in the hopes of a lion
or a buffalo. At one particularly thick place we fired the
dry palms, which made a gorgeous spectacle but was bar
ren of results. About eight-thirty we came upon fresh
buffalo spoor and droppings, which led us over to the
thorny country between the Lekiundra and another
small tributary stream, farther up the Guasa Nyro.
Presently T. heard the buffalo birds,19 and leaving the
boys, we two crept forward, slowly and noiselessly, up
wind, to have a look at the herd. We had just made up
our minds that we must be pretty near, when T. spied
about twelve yards distant, and looking intently in
the other direction, a huge lioness. He banged her in
the ribs (a little too far back) and as she went down
about six more sprang up in a whirlwind of roars. They
had been apparently sleeping in the shade of a large ac-
casia bush. In the hurly-burly I made out a lion at
which I fired,, but probably missed him, as he dashed off
into thick bush. T. sloshed what he thought was another
lioness, but she subsequently proved to be the same one
he had hit at first. I dropped another before they got
away, though it was only three-quarters grown, and then
i» The so-called buffalo and rhino birds are a horn-billed variety, which
feed upon the insect parasites living in the tough skins of these two ani
mals. They almost invariably rise at the approach of man, or any other
foe of their big friends, and give warning. Each thus mutually assists the
other.

two] BASE CAMP 293
all was still. We dashed off in pursuit of the rest, but
finding them clean gone, and no blood spoor, soon gave
up the hopeless task and came back. As we did so, my
small lioness, who had been playing "Brer Fox, he lay
low ' ' got up and came at me. As her head was down,
covering her chest, I had to shoot at it, smashing the skull
and rather spoiling the head skin. Though only five feet,
ten and one half inches, she was very game, and quite
capable of handling us both. T. 's lioness measured seven
feet, five inches. It had looked a perfect mammoth when
we first saw it. Later, we came upon another rhino, and
T. again went recklessly close. Luckily she did not ob
serve us. While stoning a thick thorny coppice, a big hy
ena broke cover, which put us on the qui vive again, as
we at first thought him a lioness. He went the way of all
flesh as I hate the sight of these sneaking scavengers,
however useful. Intensely hot today, so we returned to
camp by one-thirty, and looked after the skins. On the
way back, I did rather a fine bit of work : having dropped
the little eye-piece of my binoculars, I tracked myself
back across the stony veldt for more than a mile, and
luckily found it. Loafed in camp until five, enjoying a
swim, etc., and then went over to a nearby swamp where
tracks showed the buffs often came for water, hoping to
catch one at his evening libation. By five, forty-five it
was too dark to shoot, but by six-fifteen the moon (now
nearly full) gave us good light, so we stayed until after
eight, but no luck.
Base Camp, October 9. Rather an exciting morning
yesterday. Started off at the usual time for a thick belt
of reeds we had noticed near a dense patch of shade trees.
It was about six miles from camp, up the Guasa Nyro,
and beyond its junction with the small stream; in fact,
nearly opposite the spot where T.'s buffalo had yielded
up the ghost. It had seemed a likely place for them to
lie up in, but we had been too busy to try it since. We no-

294 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
ticed fresh tracks on the outskirts yesterday morning,
and accordingly dismounted, leaving the syce, ponies, and
five porters, in the river bed, and started to work down
the reeds with our big guns, and the gun-boys carrying
reserve rifles. Scarcely had we started when a tremen
dous big, black, bull buffalo broke cover behind us, and
between us and the ponies. As he dashed for the steep
bank of the river bed, I put in a lucky flying shot at about
one hundred yards, catching him in the ribs. The next
instant he was in direct line with the boys and ponies, so
we dared not fire. As he came out of line and dashed up
the bank, we both fired, but I think both missed. I
dashed up after him and got in two more as he went
across the open flat towards a dense clump of grass and
thorn trees. We rushed after him, but as he reached it,
he stopped and started to charge. As he turned broad
side, T. and I each gave him a couple of body shots. He
went off at this, and we hastily reloaded and fired again.
One of these shots, too low, broke his fore leg below the
knee, which proved a blessing; for a moment later as
we followed him into the high grass he turned and
charged in dead earnest -head down and bellowing -a
magnificent, never-to-be-forgotten sight! I gave him a
right and left inside the shoulders, and T. one in the face,
which took all the fight out of him ; but we needed three
more bullets before he finally succumbed. I was deter
mined not to lose this buffalo through an economy of
lead. We found fourteen bullet wounds in him -extra
ordinary vitality! His horns had a magnificent, corru
gated boss, though they only spread forty-two and one-
half inches as compared with T.'s forty-three and one-
half inches ; but he measured five feet, five inches at the
shoulder. We sent back to camp for porters to carry in the
head, skin (for porters' sandals), and meat, and to help
us build a machan [platform] , in a thorn tree under which
Mr. Buff had conveniently died, as it seemed a good
chance to sit up all night for a lion. An old grass hut of

two] BASE CAMP 295
Neumann's20 which we found in the grove nearby, fur
nished the poles for the machan. We then went out for
a short stroll to view the country beyond, and presently
spied a herd of impala. It was now ten-thirty, so T.
went back to superintend the machan building, while I
started after the impala- a most shy and wily buck. I
rejoined T. at one-thirty, after most gruelling tramp and
unsuccessful stalk, having made a sad mess of things. I
missed a good ram not being able to get closer than about
four hundred and fifty yards on the barren desert plain.
After tiffin we cantered back to camp -dashing through
thorns and jumping over logs and stones -to collect our
outfit for the night. We had a swim, and put down a
good dinner of soup, goose, curry, and preserves, at four-
thirty. Six found us back at our machan again. It was
an awkward climb up with the guns, but we finally got
there with the blankets, water bottles, ammunition, and a
lantern (in case we wounded anything), and proceeded
to try to make ourselves comfortable. T. took the first
watch till midnight, and I from then until daylight.
Nothing came to the carcass but hyenas, and I prefer to
draw a veil over the discomforts of our ribbed couch -
perched shakily some thirty feet above the ground, and
nestled confidingly amongst the thorns. We didn't
speak all night, but we might have said a good deal. I
shall bear the scars to my grave! In addition, there
20 See Elephant Hunting in Equatorial East Africa.
This is the same country over which this celebrated ivory-hunter ruled
for so long a time, as the practical king of a million or so of savages. He
is said to have buried a vast quantity of ivory somewhere in the Laurian
Swamps. There are hundreds of head of his cattle all through this country,
but as he left no will, and has no immediate relatives, the cattle have been
left with his people. He is known by all the tribes about here by his native
nickname of Bana, Inyama Yangu [Master, ' ' My Meat ' '] from his con
stantly using this expression in reference to elephants which he wished left
fdr him to shoot. Home, Tarlton, and others knew him quite well, and he
must have been a man of very remarkable personality. The natives do not
believe that he is dead, hold their cattle in trust for him and not one of the
many who must have helped bury his ivory, will tell where it is hidden.

296 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
were biting ants, and it rained towards morning; but
enough -we climbed down at sun-up, stiff and sore, and
empty-handed and sleepy. At six-thirty the boys appeared
with breakfast, ponies, and our light rifles. At seven-
thirty T. and I started back for camp by different routes,
intending to try to pick up a buck on the way -prefer
ably a gerenuk- and sleep during the heat of the day. T.
got back at ten, with no luck, having missed a gerenuk. I
made a wide circle and struck the little stream high up.
Here I saw some impala and, making a careful stalk,
bagged a fair head. Later, I stalked a very young im
pala ram and, thanks to the wind, got within forty feet.
I watched it unobserved for half an hour or so and
longed for a kodak. At eleven-thirty I spied some gere
nuk. I made a beautiful stalk and got within seventy
yards behind a bush, but was unable to fire, as their
heads were down and I was unable to distinguish the
ram. Later I got close again, but the ram was behind
the ewe, so I didn't fire, and again they smelt me and
made off. At last I got quite a fairish shot, but missed
miserably twice, and got back to camp at 2 p.m. in a
rage. Had tiffin and a swim and loafed until four-fifteen,
when I went out for a couple of hours, hoping to pick
up a dig-dig, or another impala. No luck -but coming
home I knocked over with my first shot what I took to
be a hyena, at one hundred and fifty paces. This made
me feel a bit better after my misses of the morning, es
pecially as he was galloping when I fired. On getting
back to camp, however, with the skull and tail, T. said
he thought it was an aard wolf, a decidedly Rara Avis, so
I went back for the body. As I was coming in, the full
moon rose in glorious splendor, through a notch in the
distant hills, stained a brilliant crimson by the last rays
of the setting sun. Ox-tail soup and delicious buffalo
tongue for dinner tonight. Early to bed.
Base Camp, October 10. A good sound sleep last night

two] BASE CAMP 297
refreshed me after my yesternight's vigil. T. feeling
seedy, decided to loaf in camp today, so I started out after
oryx at five-thirty. In the gray light of dawn almost
stumbled upon a rhino, not quarter of a mile from camp,
but managed to get past without having to shoot. By
sun-up, I was out on the open plains, east of the Lek
iundra River, where I presently espied a small herd of
oryx. I picked out the best head and knocked it over in
two shots (the first a bit low, in the tummy, and the other
through the thick of the neck) at two hundred and ninety
yards. Beautiful head of thirty-two and one-half inches.
I sent the pony and the porters, with the head and meat,
back to camp, and with Jeramba (second gun-boy, as
Juma is laid up with fever) took a swing around past
the Lekiundra and the big swamp, in the. hopes of an im
pala, but with no luck. After a cup of tea in camp, I
started off again at nine-thirty, for the little stream,
after gerenuk. Found a wild man here, a Wanderobo, I
think, who has come down from the direction of Laiki-
pia hunting. I hunted till three- thirty without luck. Had
a flying shot at a dig-dig, but missed it (they are a rare
little buck, about the size of a jack-rabbit, the record
horn being, I believe, three inches long). I decided to
give it up now, being tired, hungry and hot, so returned
to the junction of the Guasa Nyro with the little stream,
where I had left the syce and pony. I saw on the other
side a sounder of wart hogs, and drilled the largest
through the shoulder. It knocked him over, but he got
up and made off with the rest. I hastily crossed the
stream, (though it was waist high, and I had seen two
crocs that morning) and soon picked up his blood spoor.
As I was cautiously following this - cautiously, because
wart-hogs are quite as savage as wild boar when woun
ded -I had a bit of hard luck. After hunting gerenuk so
long, I almost stepped on one now in the thick bush near
the stream. He was well within shotgun or pistol range,
but one spring took him out of sight before I could shoot !

298 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
As I went after him, abandoning the more sporty for the
rarer quarry, a big sod of a rhino who had got my wind,
charged without warning from a patch of dense reeds
and screw palms. I only had Jeramba with me, and he
bolted like a shot. I dropped behind a bush and shoved
a steel into my nine m.m., but he passed within five
paces of me without seeing me, and eventually made off.
I spent another hour in fruitless search for the gerenuk,
and then came back to recross the river as it was getting
dusk. Another rhino, with quite a good horn, came pok
ing about and rather accelerated our selection of a cross
ing, with the result that I soon found myself up to my
neck in a hole. It was not shared by a croc, luckily, and
no harm done, except some "paradox" shells spoiled,
I found that the pony had gotten away from the syce,
(either asleep or careless) so tramped back to camp
(7:45 p.m.) where he had fortunately preceded me. I
had the syce given ten lashes (as he had no excuse, and
there were plenty of lions about who might have nabbed
the pony) both for this and several other little things I
had been saving up against him. He agreed that it was
quite just and took his punishment like a man. After
wards, I gave him some quinine, as he seemed to have a
bad cold. A certain amount of personal chastisement is
absolutely necessary to keep so large a body of more or
less wild men in hand. I believe in being very severe
upon even slight provocation at the start, for the sake of
making an impression and inculcating a wholesome re
spect. At the same time I always notice, commend, or if
necessary, reward, any marked good work on the part of
my boys, or particular application or evidence of inter
est. I never allow myself to punish anyone at the mo
ment, or when my blood is hot, but wait until evening,
when I hear both sides and try to give a calm, judicial opin
ion. It is necessary for all sportsmen in a vast country
like this, where the ruling element is comparatively infini
tesimal, to preserve the dignity and prestige of the white

two] BASE CAMP 299
man. I usually have a chair brought out before the
tent for me on these occasions, therefore, and the accused
is brought before the tribunal between a couple of aska
ris. There are numerous cases of petty theft or quarrels
constantly going on in camp, and these it is much better
to settle one's self out of hand than to trouble the dis
trict commissioner, which only bothers him and wastes
both your valuable time. Furthermore, as the govern
ment makes each sportsman responsible for the men he
takes out on safari, it is necessary to punish those who
run away or get lost, so that it will not happen again. In
variably, if the punishment is just, the boys recognize it
as such, never bear a grudge, and are usually more good
humored and keener at their work afterwards. Juma is
better today, as are all the men who have been having
sore feet from thorns or festered jigger-bites. To cap
the climax, T. had gone out at four-thirty to look for meat,
and bagged a gerenuk, which he stumbled on at close
quarters near camp !
Base Camp, Sunday, October 11. T. still feeling bad,
loafed in camp. I decided to hunt gerenuk in the morn
ing, and rest and observe Sunday in the afternoon.
Started out at five- thirty feeling rather tired, as I didn't
sleep well on account of the heat and mosquitoes. Missed
a long shot (three hundred and fifty yards) at a gerenuk
ram. Juma later pointed another out, which he said was
a ram, and I dropped it at two hundred and twenty paces,
(rather good, I thought at the time, for so small a buck,
but subsequent events proved it to have been a fluke),
but it unfortunately was a ewe. I worked hard until
twelve-thirty, stalking an impala, but made a bad miss.
This annoyed me very much, but a long drink of cold
tea and a brisk canter back to camp restored my spirits.
On telling my tale of woe to T. he examined my rifle, and
found that the foresight had been bent so crooked that
it would be impossible to hit anything upon which it was

300 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
aligned. We tinkered it up therefore, and I had some
target practice, also repaired my tattered boots, read the
Gospel of Luke, and had a swim during the afternoon.
Our friends the giddy Masai appeared in camp during
the morning, and T. went out about three, forty-five to
shoot some meat for them. He got them a zebra, and him
self a thirty-one inch oryx, also an aard wolf ! My stom
ach has been out of order all day -as has his -and we
attribute it to the water which we had been careless
about boiling and filtering lately.
Base Camp, October 12. Both T. and I spent very bad
nights last night -dysentery. I felt much weakened by
morning, and didn't do much damage to my breakfast.
Started off at five forty-five, determined to bring home in
triumph a wily gerenuk. T. elected to nurse himself
in camp for another day. Bagged an impala with a nice
head during the morning, and later another of the same
herd -refreshing myself with the kidneys and some cold
tea. After a hard morning, I crossed the Guasa Nyro
about a mile below Neumann's old hut, and eventually
bagged a nice gerenuk at one hundred and ninety paces
after a long and gruelling crawl on my stomach across the
open plains during the process of which I was several
times laid up by gripes. Later, got in amongst a herd
of wart-hogs, and had some fun. They were very inquisi
tive and came for me, so I bagged two very decent tusk
ers, wounded a third which got away. Back to camp at
four. My boots and also my feet, are in wretched shape !
A little excitement swimming the stream on my pony
through a deep pool, and scrambling up the steep bank.
Early to bed.
Base Camp, October 13. Overslept this morning.
Away at six-fifteen feeling rather slack. Got a very
nice impala. T., who was hunting separately, bagged,
with a combination of good luck and most excellent shoot
ing, two gerenuk and a leopard! He picked up the lat-

Elmorani of the Masai
(By permission of Messrs. Under/rood and Underwood)

NEAR THE LEKIUNDRA RIVER 303
ter quite by chance. It got up -as he was topping a
rocky eminence -about three yards in front of him,
and slunk off, but he downed it with a 500/450 before
it had gone three more. A very fatiguing day for
me, as I developed another touch of dysentery. Back to
camp at six. A rhino charged me on my way home, but
I managed to drive him off by shooting him in the knee-
pan, and didn't have to kill him. I find it most discour
aging to one's shooting to be out with a marksman of T.'s
calibre -he so seldom misses anything. Have decided
to start back for the Meru country to-morrow, as the
rains will soon be on there and it is high time we were
after elephant. Besides, have got everything I hoped
for here, so if I have any luck with the elephants and
there is time enough left, shall have a try for lesser kudu
and sable antelope.
Near the Lekiundra River, October 14. Slept badly
last night. Everything and everybody packed, loaded
and under way by six, forty-five. Stoned all the thick
patches of grass, reeds, and bush along the Lekiundra
on the off chance of a lion but without result. It has evi
dently not started raining in the mountains yet, for this
little desert stream is dry now, except for occasional
pools and swamps. At one of these swamps saw an enor
mous flock of the lovely pink and white flamingoes, also
some pelicans. It was a long, hard trying day over the
bare stony plains and under hot sun and hot dusty wind,
and everyone was worn out when we started to pitch
camp about two o'clock by a small swamp which seemed
not an unlikely place for the wily simba. Hardly had we
off-saddled, however, before we noticed that there were
tsetse flies all about us. They were almost the first
we had seen on the trip. Hastily killing such as had
already settled on each other and the horses, we leaped
upon the latter bareback, and galloped them to a little
rise of ground about a quarter of a mile from the swamp.

304  EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol.
We then returned on foot for the saddles and blankets,
and had the camp pitched up on the slope, to which the
green swamp water had to be carried, but where we might
sleep in peace with no nightmares about the Horse Sick
ness or the Sleeping Sickness.21 Being so far from the
21 Sleeping Sickness or Lethargus, as it is differently called, has long
been known by African travellers but it is only recently (since 1902) that
it haa been definitely associated with trypanosomes. It has been during the
past ten years also that this terrible pestilence has attained such gigantic
proportions and really been a serious menace to the very existence of hu
manity in Central Africa. Its ravages have been more fearful than those of
the Black Death which afflicted Europe in the seventeenth century. Over
two hundred thousand persons have died of it in the Uganda Protectorate
alone during the past seven years, and unknown thousands in the Congo.
Travellers even to-day come upon grass-grown villages, inhabited only a
few months before, but which are now falling into decay, tenanted only by
whitened bones. Sometimes communities have been wiped out to a man,
not one surviving to tell the tale.
The International Conference on Sleeping Sickness (first held in June,
1907) and the researches of such men as Koch, Moore, Breinl, etc., have
greatly increased the existing knowledge on the etiology of this disease.
The present theory is that man is simply a reservoir for certain forms of
trypanosomes which develop the Lethargus. That these trypanosomes are
carried by the tsetse fly mechanically, but that during the transmission a
developmental cycle is going on in the life of the trypanosome. This fact
has been based on the alleged existence of sexual forms of trypanosomes in
the blood, and, more especially, in the gut of the flies. It is a very impor
tant point in the study of the disease for were the transmission of the in
fection purely mechanical (like that of an inoculating needle) they would
not be capable of infecting fresh animals at the end of a certain lapse of
time (say forty-eight hours) after feeding on the blood of an infected ani
mal. These flies are indubitably blood-suckers living principally on the
blood of human beings, crocodiles and probably aquatic birds. In fact at
one time Dr. Koch felt convinced that they subsisted entirely on the blood
of the two former and seriously proposed the extermination of all the croco
diles in Africa - a truly herculean task when one considers the impenetrable
character of the swamps and waterways where they live in the greatest
numbers, and the rapidity with which they multiply. The tsetse flies do not
lay eggs, but deposit larvse, usually among the roots of the banana palm.
They are never found far from water and are limited geographically and
climatically to zones which can be well defined. The distance to which
they will leave the vicinity of water to follow their prey is said to be about
two hundred yards. It is very difficult to detect the tsetse fly, owing to the
extraordinary softness with which they alight upon their victims and the

two] NEAR THE LEKIUNDRA RIVER 305
railroad and neither of us feeling very fit, our horses
were naturally our first care and indeed throughout the
whole trip we were forced to give them a good deal of
personal attention as the boy who rejoiced in the proud
rapidity of their flight. Roughly discribed, they are of a greyish brown
color, about the size of our horse flies, but a little longer.
The Sleeping Sickness - the form which Lethargus takes on the human
being -is a slow, wasting illness, the early symptoms of which are extreme
lassitude, torpor, and indifference, together with a noticeable swelling in
the glands of the neck. It can only be accurately diagnosed, however, by
the detection of trypanosomes in blood taken from the sick and stained on
films. The diseased gradually becomes indifferent to nourishment and often
when fed, are too stupid to either chew or swallow. The last stages are very
painful. Methods for its extermination are : isolation belts, cutting down
the jungle about villages, water holes, fords and ferries, draining swamps,
inspection posts (where travellers are examined before being admitted into
each section of the country), destruction of the crocodile and gradual clear
ing of all low jungle land. Patients are isolated and treated with an
arsenic compound in atoxyl which Dr. Koek, after many experiments, feels
will become as valuable as quinine in the treatment of malaria. The royal
commission on the Sleeping Sickness is well organized and has posts, relief
stations, hospitals, laboratories, segregation camps, and lazarettos scattered
throughout the country. The mortality must be reckoned at one hundred
per cent, for when once the sleeping sickness stage has been reached, there
is no authentic record of a cure ever having been made. Civilization is
largely responsible for the spread of the disease during the past decade,
since better roads and railroads have encouraged the natives to travel to
hitherto uninfected parts of the continent. The growing alarm over this
terrible plague is based on the recent investigations of Dr. Kock, which
have placed it in the category of venereal diseases, a fact which makes its
extermination almost an impossibility.
The horse-sickness and cattle-disease, which the bite of the tsetse seems
to inflict, are more regarded by white men than the Sleeping Sickness it
self. For a horse, mule or cow is as exposed as are the naked negroes,
while the white man is in a large measure protected by his clothes. It takes
from ten days to three weeks after infection for either of these diseases to
materialize, but they are so deadly when once they have gotten hold of
horse or bullock, that the so-called ' ' fly-belts " or " fly-countries ' ' are prac
tically impassable for domestic animals. Of course every tsetse fly does
not carry the germ of Lethargus any more than every mosquito carries ma
larial contagion. But malarial fever, while it carries off a great many peo
ple in the tropics, and is very apt to leave germs in the blood of those who
recover which will bring on recurrences, is so harmless when compared with
the Sleeping Sickness, that all tsetse flies are held in great respect.

306 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
title and pay of ' ' Syce ' ' knew nothing about the proper
care of horses. Went out again a little before five but
could find no lion tracks about the swamp and stoned it
without results. Bagged a couple of hare and a brace
of guinea fowl for the pot in a grove of stunted euphor
bias a mile or so from the stream. Knocked over a grant
gazelle, but a big ugly rhino, which I didn't want to shoot,
appeared suddenly from beneath a bush between us and
making himself rather obstreperous, balked me of my
prey! Lekiundra River, October 15. Woke up feeling dizzy
and nauseated this morning (fever and dysentery) and
made breakfast off brandy and porridge. Away at six
hardly able to pull myself into the saddle. At eight came
upon two sportsmen, Scott and Neilson (Fourth Hus
sars-Queen's Own) in a swamp, where they had just
killed two fine buffalo. This made us sick with envy, as
they had stumbled upon theirs by the merest chance while
trecking along with their safari, not on the lookout for
game at all, while ours represented more than fourteen
days of hard and conscientious work. Some Egyptian
ibises near the swamp. Camp at two-thirty feeling
rather badly. We mutually clipped each other's hair
this afternoon, till we looked like convicts - or Germans !
Went out at four-thirty and bagged a fine four foot ba
boon, with a good mane. Missed a grant for the pot, and
came back feeling very slack and ill. My pony has been
a godsend on this return journey, as I have been feeling
very weak, and could never have tramped the distance
without him. Fever and dysentery, are neither of them
pleasant things. T. bagged four pigeon with his 22. The
natives report that the rains are expected daily at Meru,
and that there are lots of eland about, so have decided to
send the safari on the Sultan Metheely's (about seven
hours from Meru), and hunt eland for a day or so.
Sultan Metheely's, October 16. Off at six. Came

two] SMALL STREAM IN THE HILLS 307
up with a large herd of eland about nine. Stalked them
successfully in spite of four rhino, all of which at differ
ent times bothered us considerably, but there wasn't a
sizable bull in the herd. Hunted until eleven-thirty,
when Juma was temporarily laid up with a bad attack of
gripes. T. and I, by slapping and massaging his tummy,
got him on his feet again. As we were both feeling hun
gry and slack, we turned back to the sultan's, which we
reached at three. I picked up a guinea fowl at long range
on the way back, and T., a steinbuck for the pot. We
bought some fresh milk for ourselves and a little grain
(Matama) for the horses, from the sultan, with strings
of blue beads ; and also made glad the heart of the naked
savage dandy who had guided us to the haunts of the
eland in the morning. The sultan has a fine lot of cattle.
About five-thirty, I went out, accompanied by some twen
ty Dusky Spearmen, and knocked over a brace of part
ridge and a couple of brace of guinea fowl, to the huge
delight of the D.S. Cooler tonight on these high spurs.
Good pasture land on the hillsides, which have been
cleared of jungle for several miles about the sultan's
shamba. Small stream in the hills (One Yard), October 17.
Off at six-thirty after eland, with eight D.S., leaving
instructions for the safari to push on to this stream,
which is an hour nearer Meru, where we would rejoin
them at night. Cold and misty until about eight. At
nine-thirty saw a herd -stalked them -but just as we
were about to fire, they were alarmed by a stampeding
herd of zebra, and I had to risk a running shot at the best
bull at three hundred yards. I hit him in the hind quar
ters, luckily enough, and knocked him down, but he got
up and made off down wind. We followed a copious
blood spoor for about seven miles, but never caught an
other glimpse of him. Saw about fifteen rhino during
the day. One was very big, and seemed to have good

308 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
horns, so we rode up for T. to have a shot. As we got
close, however, it proved a female, with small horns and
a toto. We sheered off, but she saw us and charged.
We ignominiously ran. She gained on T., who had dis
mounted, so he had to turn and fire. I then dismounted
to help in case of need. She sheered off T., but catching
sight of my white pony came for me so that I had to fire
also when she got within twenty paces, as I saw she meant
business. We both hit her in the hind quarters, not wish
ing to kill her, and she luckily turned and made off with
her lumbering offspring to the considerable relief of the
brave D.S. who had mostly taken to trees. At three-
thirty saw a big bull eland with one cow. Got close, but
just as I was about to fire, T. said he thought they were
both cows. While we were discussing the matter, they
made off, and I missed a good chance. Back to camp at
six-thirty, tired and delightfully hungry. Feeling much
better today. Bagged an oribi-a pretty little buck, for
meat on the way back to camp. Horses seem very slack -
afraid they've been bitten by tsetse fly. Running short
of all sorts of food : flour, rice, butter, chocolate, chutney,
sugar, etc.
Same camp by small stream, October 18. T. decided
to loaf in camp today. I waited half an hour for a couple
of D.S. who had promised to come early and act as guides,
and at length set off without them at six-thirty. Came
on a small herd of eland about eight, but being down wind,
they stampeded. Taking Juma, I made a great circle of
nearly two miles, and came up to them again in thick
bush. Had a nice kneeling shot, one hundred and fifty
yards, at a fine bull, facing three-quarters away from me,
and raked him through the stomach and lungs. He fell
to the shot, but rose up on his fore legs (as I ran up to
finish him off) with the blood spouting out in a clear jet
from his side. His mouth was open and flecked with
bloody froth, his ears back, and his nostrils distended-

Eland
(By permission of Messrs. Undenrood and Underwood)

SAME CAMP BY SMALL STREAM  311
a magnificent sight. His horns were twenty-eight inches
(above the average) and very massy, and he measured
five feet nine inches at the shoulder -a great, broad-chest
ed beast, the largest of the antelope family. Sent back
to camp for boys to take in the head and meat, and went
off with Juma and Jeramba in hopes of an impala. At
ten, forty-five, as I topped a rise, I saw something move
on another bald hillock, about quarter of a mile off, up
wind. Putting on the glasses, I could scarcely believe my
eyes to see a leopard out at that time of day. I slipped
behind a bush and made the boys do likewise. As he
hadn't seen us yet, and was evidently looking for a late
breakfast, I decided not to risk a shot from where I was,
but to try a stalk. Reached his hill, having' kept well
under cover, but couldn't see him. As I was peering cau
tiously about among the stones, he suddenly sprang up at
about eighty paces, and disappeared over the rise, almost
instantly, and before I could shoot. I ran to the edge,
and had two flying shots at him across the valley at about
three hundred yards, but missed. Strangely enough, he
doubled back to the right to take cover in a deep dry
water course, thickly overgrown with thorns and long dry
grass. I ran down in hopes of cutting him off, or perhaps
of putting him up again, although I feared it was useless,
as he could travel for miles down this overgrown river-bed
without being seen. As luck would have it, however, he
got out of the first copse I tried, and gave me two more
running shots at about sixty yards. The second, just as
he was entering the bush again, knocked him over. We
found blood in the long grass, but it was hard to follow
the spoor, as the thorns formed an impenetrable hedge.
I crawled for perhaps two miles along the water course,
through rank grass and thorns, with my express at the
cock, and had the boys walking along either bank and
throwing stones in from above in the hope that he might
have taken cover somewhere farther down; but he had
evidently either made off, only slightly wounded, or else

312 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
concealed himself successfully, having been badly hurt.
At any rate, I never saw him again.22 Incidentally, I
broke my binoculars climbing about amongst the stones
and logs here. Back to camp at three-thirty. Had a re
fractory porter admonished with the lash. The hyenas
howled and laughed horribly during the night.
Meru, October 19. Broke camp at six-thirty and head
ed for Meru. Presently saw another safari ahead of us,
bound the same way, and feared it might be the "Deutsch-
enkreutzers " (whose plans would bring them to Meru at
about this time), also after elephant. Were much re
lieved to find that it was friend Span, back from a week's
safari with the world's record oryx head (thirty-seven
and three-quarters inches), a poor eland, and some small
stuff. Reached Meru at eleven- thirty. One of the KA.R. 's
(out scouting) had killed a lion which was about to
spring on him in the dense forest near Lake M'Gunga.
Home as pleasant as ever, loafed about reading his mag
azines and enjoying a swim during the afternoon. Some
two hundred painted Masai warriors, with great ostrich-
plume head-dresses, leopard skins over their shoulders,
and shields and spears, came in, chanting a savage sort
of war-song. They paraded around the boma, twirling
their spears in unison so that they caught the light all to
gether, a very unique sight. This was done for the pur
pose of impressing Home and showing him how valuable
would be an alliance with their tribe, but I'm afraid that
it had little effect upon men who knew the value of ma
chine guns. Dined at the boma with Home, Span, and
Brooke, and spent a very pleasant evening. Home
showed me some pictures and told me about his ranch life
in Wyoming. He is a most lovable chap and remarkably
energetic. We noticed many changes about the post,
22 It did not occur to me at the time, but I have subsequently come to
the conclusion that this leopard probably climbed a tree, which they are
very apt to do when hard pressed. I never thought of looking for him
there.

two] BASE CAMP ON UNGACHUMA RIVER 313
even during our short absence; roads cut, trees and sod
planted, stockade increased, more police lines, and a
couple of useful bridges. A sore on the joint of the mid
dle finger of my right hand has become ulcerated and is
very painful.
Base Camp on the Ungachuma River (Eight Yards),
October 20. Loafed in bed, reading magazines, until nine.
Put preservatives (arsenical soap and naphthalene to ward
off the beetle-bug and other insect pests) on our skins and
other trophies, and left them with Home until we should
be back again from hunting the "indigenous oilypant."
Also left our ponies behind in charge of the syce, as we
can't use them while after elephant -the country being
either too mountainous and rocky, or too thick; jungle
and forest. They will be glad of a rest and good feed, as
the grass has been very poor since leaving the Guasa Nyro.
Doctored my finger and some porters, had my poor boots
sewed up by one of Brooke's askaris (who is rather a
fundi [handy man]), arranged for more pocha for our
boys, bought two sheep (in order not to have to disturb
the country by shooting for the pot, thereby alarming the
oilypants) and pulled out at two-thirty with another
guide (Mufta, the jailbird, discharged -nothing appar
ently stolen). Reached this stream eight miles from
Meru at four, where we intend to make a base camp for a
few days. Thick heavy clouds morning and evening, but
no rain yet. Enjoyed a bath. Early to bed.
Base Camp on the Ungachuma River, October 21.
Rained during the night, and rain and mist until about
nine a.m. We sent out two natives scouting for tracks,
and sallied out ourselves about six-thirty with gun boys
and our local guide. He had encouragingly told us to
always let him go first, as there were many poisoned
spears and dead falls concealed in the thick forest here
abouts, and he knew where most of them were. This wet
weather augurs well for us, as elephants usually walk

314 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
about in it, and indeed we found fresh tracks and drop
pings, and at one time heard some oilys, but they got our
wind and made off. It was no use following, as when thor
oughly alarmed, they travel at the rate of about eight miles
per hour through the densest sort of jungle. Brooke
played us rather a scurvy trick, sending a lot of his sol
diers out to have a sham battle near where he knew we
were hunting, which effectively spoiled our sport, so we
returned to camp at three for tea. T., feeling rather
slack. Base Camp, October 23. Rained again on Wednesday
night. Off at six-thirty in a fine mist. Our so-called
guide lost himself and us in a dense equatorial forest, and
we only got right at about eleven-thirty by luckily hap
pening upon our own tracks again. Presently came to a
great swamp, where not only did spoor and droppings
show that the elephant were in the habit of drinking, but
where they had evidently drank last night. As there was
a mighty knarled and branched old Swiss- Family-Robin
son tree at one end, we decided to have a try for them at
their evening and morning drink (no moon) and proceed
ed to build a machan— no skimpy hard and uncomfortable
affair like our last, but a big, strong, grass-padded, gen
erous arrangement, which comfortably held us and two
gun boys. We sent back to camp for blankets and more
food, and then trecked about until four, under the wing
of a couple of Wanderobo, whom we met, armed with
bows and poisoned arrows. Five o'clock saw us up on
our perch, but nothing came that evening, or during the
night, except a big old rhino. I dropped off to sleep
while he was still squelching about in the swamp, and
slept well until about 1 a.m., when the rains descended
and the floods came! This continued until about 9 a.m.
today, when it died out in a fine mist. The forest is
even more beautiful today than before the rain, and we
sneak along noiselessly over the sodden leaves. Our

two] BASE CAMP 315
scouts report that the elephants have apparently left this
part of the forest and are working out towards the
plains -probably frightened by Brooke's askaris (male
dictions upon him!), more of whom we came upon today
maneuvering. We spent a long afternoon, therefore,
working out in that direction, through most villainous
country -piercing tangled, massy veils of vine, forcing a
path through thick thorny bush ; sliding down steep slip
pery slopes, and fording countless mossy, stony streams.
Came upon three magnificent wart hogs, but true to our
sportsman-like and sound policy of shooting nothing else
while after elephant (save, of course, lion, leopard, or
kudu), we let them go, though we saw no elephant this
day, nor even fresh tracks. The forest is full of mighty
trees, torn down by tempests, and smaller ones, but of by
no means contemptible size, uprooted by elephants - elo
quent testimonials to their strength and fury. I noticed
today what a magical effect a calm, unconcerned glance
has, upon one's frightened porters when a rhino is near
by. They are like so many children, brave when there is
someone to protect them. Early to bed, hoping for better
luck on the morrow.
Base Camp, October 24. It rained hard all night (get
ting camp, including my shot gun case, carelessly left out
by the gun boys, very wet), and we had our hopes; but a
hard day's work through swampy, slushy, muddy, bushy,
hellish country, brought no results, and we got back to
camp at five-thirty worn out and disheartened. It rained
off and on all day long, despite which we saw no fresh
elephant tracks. We did see a nice water-buck, but were
adamant. I am a vision of loveliness in my rainy-day cos
tume, which consists of a pair of shorts, a rubber shirt
cut off a little below the waist, and a pair of tattered
boots -neat, but not gaudy. We came across several
poisoned dead-falls today, a heavy bell-shaped block of
wood, into which a spear is set, the whole suspended from

316 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
a tree, and detached by the victim's brushing against a
set-trigger- usually a branch or a vine. The last few
evenings we have been planning all the details of an imag
inary trip into the Congo to poach King Leopold's ivory.
M'Gunga Lake, October 26. Two new Wanderobo sav
ages came into camp yesterday morn, who had seen some
elephants the day before and undertook to guide us to
them. It rained to start with, but cleared off by nine.
At eleven we got on fresh tracks and came up with a herd
by twelve, but in such thick country that we couldn't see
them, and they made off. We followed, and luckily came
up to them again. Climbing a tree, we saw some cows
only about forty yards off. They made as if to come for
us, but thought better of it, and went off before we could
locate the bull. As we were again following, a rhino
charged in thick bush, frightening away, for the moment,
our guides and porters. Presently we came upon the
herd in the open -a wonderful sight. There were about
fifty, but no bulls with tusks which I cared to bother
about, at least so far as we were able to judge. We ac
cordingly sat down within three hundred yards of them
up- wind, and ate a little chocolate and some biscuit, which
was all we had brought with us. During the afternoon,
we found three more small herds. Still no sizable bulls.
At four it began raining again.
The rain it raineth every day
On the just and the unjust feller,
But mostly upon the just -because
The unjust takes the just's umbreller.
Saw several rhino and at five-thirty came upon another
herd of elephants in the open, with what seemed like a
good bull, so fooled about for some time, eventually get
ting within twenty-five yards. I think the elephants were
somewhat blinded by the heavy driving rain, but several
of the cows finally made us out and kept making little
short charges, so that we were alternately running for

In a bamboo Forest

Good elephant country near Lake
M'Gunga
(By permission of Messrs. Underwood and Underwood)

M'GUNGA LAKE 319

our lives and then sneaking cautiously back again. We
did not desist until thoroughly convinced there were no
really " Big Fellows " in the herd. Came upon one of
Brooke's askaris, with a fine bull the lieutenant had shot
the day before (tusks about fifty pounds each). Spent
the night out; wet, cold, and hungry, being too far from
camp to reach it before darkness fell. At daylight we
found we were near Lake M'Gunga, and as we seemed to
have at last come upon the haunt of the pachyderms, we
sent one of our guides back to camp to bring the safari
up there. Saw two more small lone bulls during the
morning. Swung around and made M'Gunga about
eleven-thirty shortly after which the rain, which had been
continuous since yesterday afternoon, thinned to a fine
mist. The safari appeared at one-thirty and we tucked
in a good meal. My boots are in bad shape, but my ul
cerated finger is improving. Off again at two-thirty,
making a long trek, but could find no elephant, although
we had a little trouble with some rhino in thick bush.
Stopped on the side of a high hill to view the country
through binoculars -one bushbuck, but no elephant in
sight. I decided to climb it, and saw from the top, in a
distant, shut-in valley, about two hundred elephants scat
tered about in herds of ten, twenty, and forty. I sent
back for T. and the gun boys, and while watching them
through my glasses to try and pick a good one, saw a
large lion come out (possibly after a calf?) and get ig-
nominiously chased off by the cows. We spent about an
hour and a half after working down close to them, trying
to find a big tusker, but in vain. We got within thirty
yards eventually behind thick bush, but even the largest
bulls didn't satisfy either of us except one, which, how
ever, we soon noticed had only one tusk. Rather a deli
cate job getting back to camp at dusk, as the elephants
were between us and camp, but we managed to slip
through the great herd successfully. Found a pleasant
chap named McDougall out on a trading expedition with

320 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
a light safari loaded with beads, brass wire, blankets, and
cloth, which he hoped to exchange for native cattle, don
keys, goats, and sheep, and also planning, as many an
other good man before him has done, to find the great store
of ivory reported to have been buried by Neumann in the
Laurian Swamps. My own theory in regard to this is,
that it is all under-weight ivory which Neumann shot in
the early days, and which he found it impossible to take
out, owing to the later government restrictions as to
weight. Whoever finds it, therefore, will not be able to
profit by the discovery, as the government will undoubt
edly confiscate it. Invited McDougall over to dinner and
had some pleasant yarns until about ten-thirty.
M'Gunga, October 27. Rained in deluges all night.
The cook attempted mutton pie -his first offense in that
line, and I rather fancy his last too -did for both T. and
me during the night. Very tired, after two hard days
and bad nights, so decided to loaf this morning, sending
out scouts, however. Took a late start at eleven, and
had a light tiffin on top of a high hill which commanded a
fine view of the country. Through our binoculars we saw
zebra, hartebeests, and baboons, but no elephants. It
began to rain again very hard, about four-thirty, and the
clouds came down so thickly that we couldn't see more
than twenty yards, so returned to camp drenched. T.
feeling rather low, with a bad ankle, and self with a head
ache. Early to bed.
M'Gunga, October 28. It grew very cold in the wee
small hours, the rain changing to hail. It stopped alto
gether, and the mists cleared away by dawn, rolling up
about the mountain tops, and making rather a fine sight.
Lake M'Gunga must be seven or eight thousand feet high.
The clouds hung darkly all about the horizon, but the air
was clear, cold, and bracing. A good start at five-fifteen.
Picked up a fresh spoor at nine and followed it through
beautiful forests until twelve, when we came up to three

On the Spurs op Kenia

M'GUNGA 323

elephants. Climbed a tree - requiring considerable agil
ity, as I had to stand on one branch with my binoculars
in my teeth, and then spring up, catch another, pull my
self up onto it and reach down for my rifle -and had a
good look, but they proved useless, two cows and a calf.
Had rather an amusing incident with a rhino during the
afternoon. T., who was ahead, caught sight of some
thing in the bush, about twenty-five paces in front of him,
and held up his hand (our usual signal for everyone to in
stantly stop and keep quiet). I, by stooping down, saw
that it was a rhino, but T. apparently did not, and started
cautiously forward (foolishly without his gun) to see
what it was. A few paces brought him face to face with
the beast, although as the rhino was busy feeding, I don't
think it actually saw him. I crept forward with his gun,
as well as my own, just as it winded us, when, to our sur
prise, it made off with a snort. As it did so, we heard
another snort about thirty paces to our right, and another
stupid brute started for us. We faced about, skipping
nimbly behind trees, and covered him, both, of course,
resolving inwardly not to fire unless matters reached ex
tremities, as he had a poor head, and we didn't wish to
disturb the country. Luckily for us, he stopped within
ten paces, and stood listening for what seemed an age,
although actually not more than two minutes, I suppose.
I had a bead on his brain, and my finger on the trigger.
We exchanged silent smiles appreciative of the situation.
The wind was in our favor, and after snorting a bit, and
ineffectually trying to place us, he reluctantly made off.
We had just given a sigh of relief, and were re-collecting
our scattered porters, when a third rhino broke cover.
As she had a toto about the size of a calf with her we
feared trouble from this lusty lady, but luck was with us
again, and she swung off to our left and disappeared.
These and other experiences effectually disprove, to my
mind, the theory that a rhino will always charge. Saw
some bush-buck and water-buck during the afternoon, but

324 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
resisted the temptation, though things are beginning to
look blue for a good tusker. Back to camp at five-thirty,
in time for a bath before dark. Lost a porter today -
here's hoping a rhino or a wily simba hasn't blotted him
out. Beautiful crescent moon this evening.
M'Gunga, October 29. Beautiful sunrise this morn-
the golden light disclosing the blue-black peaks of the en
circling mountains, rearing their dark crests up through
the masses of white mists which hung thick in the valleys
below. Off in good season, T. pleading guilty to a sore
ankle -so I lent him the elastic supporter which I had
used for my sprained ankle. Kept to the highlands
pretty well during the morning, but though we covered a
good deal of ground, found no tracks. The air was cold
and bracing, and I felt tip-top. About 11 a.m. I over
ruled T. and our guide (a young Wanderobo) and in
sisted on striking down towards the forests near where
we had first seen the elephants. Luckily for my inex
perience we came very shortly upon fresh spoor, which
we followed through very thick woods and bush country
until 2 p.m., when we halted for tiffin. Just as we were
starting off again, Juma declared he heard a branch
break nearby. (It is interesting to note how the snap
ping of a branch or the heavy fall of a tree scarcely no
ticed ordinarily, will put one instantly on the qui vive
when hunting, and especially when after elephants who
feed on the leaves of branches they break off.) We ac
cordingly climbed a little eminence, and could then plain
ly hear the elephants thrashing about, feeding ; and could
see the branches and bushes wave, though we couldn't see
the beasts themselves. T. wished to remain where we
were, as he said it was dangerous to go in after them in
such very thick country, and that they were very likely to
come out into the open glade before us, thus offering a
better shot. After waiting fruitlessly for half an hour, I
decided, perhaps foolishly, to go in. T. followed me

two] M'GUNGA 325
against his better judgment. We got within thirty yards
without disturbing them, and climbed first one tree and
then another, but could get no glimpse of their tusks.
We moved with exaggerated caution, picking away the
dried leaves and twigs before us, and only advancing per
haps a yard a minute. It was very thick country -bush
and grass. Finally I sneaked forward and pulled myself
up onto a small thorn tree within fifteen yards of the
great brutes. Here I could plainly see one bull and two
others indistinctly. The near one had undoubtedly a
magnificent pair of tusks, so I gave him a 450 steel in the
heart, and another just behind. A heavy fall followed
by trumpeting, squeals, groans, and gurgling of blood in
his trunk was heard as the crashing of the stampeding
herd died away, and assured us that he was down. I
crept cautiously forward, however, and finished him off
with another steel in the brain. We estimated his tusks
at between sixty-five and seventy-five pounds 23 and they
were a very pretty pair, as regards color and shape. We
had agreed beforehand that I was to take the first shot
at elephants, T. the next two elephants, and I the fourth -
we are each allowed two. As it was 5 p.m., I cut off
the tail to establish my ownership, and returned to camp
in a heavy rain. Finished the second sheep tonight.
Celebration dinner, with the much-prized claret. Miss
ing porter has not yet turned up.
M'Gunga, October 30. Clear morning. As we were
out of meat, T. shot a female bushbuck. Being very close
(thirty yards) he was sure of it in one shot, which we
reckoned would not disturb the country very much. A
hard day— "Long time the manxome foe we sought" -
climbing hills in the early morning, and trecking through
the thick forest from ten to three-thirty (hours when the
elephant is likely to be feeding, or lying up in the shade).
23 Nairobi, November 11. I had these tusks weighed here today, and
they proved to be sixty-nine and three-fourths pounds and seventy-five and
one-half pounds' respectively.

326 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
Naught did we find, however, save yesterday's tracks, a
herd of zebra and several troops of monkeys. Back to
camp at six-fifteen, after a hard day. Our missing por
ter rolled in safe and sound tonight -Home sent him out
from the boma, where he had turned up in a terrified
and bedraggled state this morning. As the time I al
lowed for elephants is now over, I shall go into Meru to
morrow, and pick up my trophies and ponies, getting
more pocha and some extra porters. T. is going to stay
on and hunt elephants. I shall be back this way in a day
or so, en route for Nyeri, and if he is ready, we will go
back to Nairobi together. I am anxious to have a try for
lesser kudu at Voi, or M'toto Andei, and sable somewhere
along the coast, before November twenty-eighth, when a
French Mail from Madagascar stops at Mombasa en
route for Tjibouti and Suez. T. is anxious to get back
for business, although he is also very anxious for ele
phant, which represent pounds and shillings to him.
Beautiful moon tonight.
Meru, October 31. Got off at eight-thirty, saying
good-bye to T., whom I left a porter's tent, his bed, blan
kets, cooking pots, etc., and plenty of food. Also left one
askari and seven porters. Reached Meru at ten-thirty by
a new short cut through the forest, which a Wanderobo
showed me. Found Readdie, of Fort Hall, who has just
arrived on a joint hunting safari and tour of inspection
of the Nyeri and Meru Posts. He tried to climb Mount
Kenia en route, being desirous of getting pictures of the
glaciers, and in hopes of elephants on the forest and bam
boo covered slopes. The heavy rains, however, prevent
ed both his getting higher than thirteen thousand feet,
and all photography. He suffered considerably, himself,
and lost four porters through cold, nor did he see any ele
phant. He is very much pleased with Home's work at
Meru, as I thought he would be. I settled up accounts
with Home for all the pocha and porters I had got from

two] BESIDE A SMALL POOL 327
the local sultans through him, bought more pocha for the
return journey, arranged for twenty more local porters,
got out our trophies and packed them for carrying, tried
in vain to get some sweet potatoes (as we are out of all
vegetables, as well as rice, and very low on sugar) and
had a look at the ponies, who seem rather fit. In the
afternoon, had a swim and doctored up some porters, also
myself, as I seem to have developed tonsilitis. Dined
very pleasantly at the boma with Home, Readdie, Brooke,
and Span. Feeling very feverish and chilly tonight, so
took a heavy dose of quinine and slept in a sweater.
Beside a small pool of rain-water in the hills, Novem
ber 1. Saw a beautiful sunrise. Off at seven-thirty with
twenty-one extra porters. From the top of a rise, I
looked back with regret upon green and smiling Meru,
with its trim straw-thatched police lines, and its ranges
of encircling hills. Home and Readdie I could still see,
waving me adieu from the parade ground, and the flag of
old England flaunted proudly over their heads. I shall
always remember Home as a most charming fellow, the
soul of geniality and hospitality, and the incarnation of
energy and ability. Readdie has also gone out of his way
to be nice to me, giving me a recommendation to a local
sultan to help me in my shooting at Voi, and has generally
been very pleasant. Though feeling rather worn and
seedy, I tramped on ahead of the safari, until we reached
M'Gunga at ten- thirty, in hopes of getting some meat, but
saw nothing. I found T. had, however, bagged a young
bushbuck ram, though he had no luck after elephant yes
terday. He was feeling rather down in the mouth, and
decided to push on with me to Nairobi. I should have
liked to have stayed and helped him get his elephants,
but felt that I did not have the time. The boys have
plenty of chahoola, and indeed for the past two days, the
entire safari has gorged itself so successfully on my ele
phant that, with the exception of a little smoked meat

328  EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol.
they have with them, nothing is left but bones. When
one travels light as we have been doing, carrying very
little extra food for the porters, it is necessary to provide
them with a good deal of game, and so, although T. has
shot practically as much as I, we have the satisfaction of
feeling that nothing has been wasted. The appetite of
these fellows is simply astounding -they are capable of
working for two or three days on practically no food at
all, but when a time of plenty comes, they simply stuff
like animals and then lie fallow. They love to get inside
a dead elephant and eat their way out. The Kikuyus
have a saying about the hartebeest, an animal slightly
larger than our caribou, which they can very nearly make
good : ' ' The hartebeest is an unsatisfactory critur- a little
too much for one man to get away with, and not enough
for two! " Shortly after leaving M'Gunga, we got lost
in the dense equatorial forest, probably mistaking a game
track for the trail which should have led us back to the
upper track for Nyeri. Emerging into the open at length,
the lay of the land showed us our mistake, so we struck
up over the foot-hills towards Mount Kenia. Finding no
water, we had to push on until after five, when we reached
this little pool of rain water in a hollow of the hills. The
porters are almost done up, especially the new ones. Hot
during the day, but very cold tonight. As I have been
feeling feverish all day, and my tonsilitis is worse, I took
fifteen grains of quinine, and again slept in a sweater.
Beautiful dark-blue velvet sky, studded with stars.
Small streamlet on the Veldt, November 2. It rained
heavily during the night. Off at six, forty-five and struck
the right trail at ten. Came upon this stream at one-
fifteen and camped, as it had begun to hail, and further
more, we had several invalids; three porters with sore
feet, one with an inflamed gland and groin, Juma with the
gripes, and the cook, Salem (tent boy -a very competent
chap), and I with fever, in addition to which I have de-

two] SMALL STREAMLET IN THE VELDT 329
veloped tonsilitis (with its accompanying headaches and
sore bones), an ulcerated finger, and a sore ankle. T.'s
ankle seems quite recovered, thanks to an elastic bandage
which I lent him. I think it is about nine thousand feet
here, and it promises to be very cold tonight. I should
have gone out to look for meat for the boys during the
afternoon, but felt too weak and feverish. T. took a nap.
I don't know what I should have done without my pony
the last two days. I never could have walked the dis
tance. Took four pills of Waburg's tincture (an even more
powerful anti-malarial medicine than quinine) before go
ing to bed.
Camp on the open veldt (no water), November 3.
Rained during the night and very cold. Woke up feeling
much better, to find the ground thickly covered with hoar
frost. My throat is also on the mend, as I have been
gargling it twice daily with a solution of permanganate
of potash, and taking bronchial troches. Away at six-
thirty. Tiffin at one-ten by the unknown stream where
we had camped on the night of the seventeenth of Sep
tember. Rained heavily all afternoon. Camped at four,
near a deserted Masai kraal. Went out to look for food
for the porters, but saw nothing, except a thompson gaz
elle, which I dropped, as every little helps. Very good
food here for the horses, as the rains have made the grass
lush and green.
Small streamlet in the Veldt, November 4. Away
at six-thirty. Beautiful clear morning, with splendid
views of Kenia. Lunch at eleven, forty-five at the Tage-
sa River. Rained during the afternoon. The great open
plateau rolling down from Kenia, which we crossed, was
dotted with a beautiful pink variety of lily, growing close
to the ground, but shaped and scented much like our eas-
ter lilies. After some patience I succeeded in teaching
my pony to pass them closely enough and slowly enough
to allow me to reach down and pick them. Tried target

330 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
practice at some distant thompson gazelles, whippiiig on
and off my pony for the shots, and succeeded in wounding
one twice at about three hundred and twenty paces, but
we were unable to ride it down. Reached this stream for
camp at two, forty-five. Went out at four, after a swim,
to look for meat. Missed another distant thompson and
then made quite a fairish shot at a zebra. Coming home
in the dusk24 saw a cheetah going off through the bush like
greased lightning, at about fifty paces. Put in three
shots, but missed him. A moment later, as I was follow
ing him into the long grass and bush, I saw what I thought
was another smaller one, and bagged it with my nine m.m.,
but it proved to be a cerval cat. The presence of the
Masai, with their sheep and cattle, not far from here, ac
counts for that of the leopards, cheetahs, and cerval cats,
which prey upon the former. The cerval cat is about the
size of our Canadian lynx. Some Masai from a nearby
kraal brought us some milk this evening.
Nyeri, November 5. Rained heavily during the night.
Off at six-fifteen in a penetrating drizzle, the mists hang
ing low until about ten-thirty. We got lost in the fog
some time about eight o'clock, but felt sure that our sense
of direction was right, and pushed on across bushy high
lands intersected with deep stony nullahs [ravines] until
we emerged at ten into a beautiful little clearing in the
jungle, where there was a Masai kraal and a great herd
of sheep and cattle. On our first emergence into the
clearing, some sort of an alarm was given, the little boys
started driving the cattle off into the jungle, and about a
dozen spearmen came tumbling out of the gateway; but
when they saw white men they immediately became all
2* On the equator, the sun always rises and sets at exactly six o 'clock.
We were a little north of the equator. The sun set about five minutes after
six here. When I saw the cheetah, it was twenty-two minutes after six,
and as the tropic darkness falls very rapidly after sunset, and as the country
was very thick and bushy, I feel that there was some excuse in missing this
quickly moving target even at such short range.

two] NYERI 331
smiles, and soon the chief of the village came forward
and invited us in. Here our head man procured a couple
of chaps to guide us to Nyeri. I poked about inside the
kraal and found the manner of life very interesting. The
stockade which surrounds the whole is about eight feet
high, and strongly built of woven oziers and sunbaked clay.
The first row of houses is built up against this wall, but
is only about five feet high. Pigs, sheep, goats, and cattle
share these huts with humans, and here they all live and
move and have their being as long as the pasturage re
mains good in that vicinity, which may be anytime from a
year to a day. We reached Nyeri at twelve and found it
as beautiful as ever. Skein was away, but Piggott, the
same mad wag with the oddest humor, made us royally
welcome and insisted upon our staying to tiffin with him.
He was most amusing and entertaining, bemoaning an
almost fruitless ten days' safari. A German- American
named Dukerwich is also here, who is taking photos and
cinematographs of Kilimanjaro, Kenia, and the tribes
generally, together with what game he is able, for an
American concern, Underwood and Underwood. He
pulled the long bow a bit in regard to his habit of shoot
ing kongoni at eight hundred yards, and had some wild
tales and yarns about the Spanish- American War, South
Africa, Guerilla warfare in the Philippines, the Russo-
Japanese War (where a shell destroyed his photographic
outfit at the battle of Mukden), the relief of Pekin, and
Borneo. After paying off our Meru and arranging with
Piggott for about twenty kikuyus to help with the loads as
far as Fort Hall, and if possible to Nairobi, I went out and
got a water-buck, with quite a nice head. Piggott dropped
in after dusk, and on my asking if it were possible for me to
pick up a good Masai spear or sword from the natives
hereabouts, he most kindly presented me with some which
he insisted upon my taking. He stayed till eleven, and
departed rather the worse for wear, having extracted a
promise from us to breakfast with him in the morning.

332 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY  [Vol.
Sultan Wambugu's, November 6. Strawberries and
cream and eggs formed the bulk of our excellent break
fast. We paid off and dismissed before Piggott two
porters who were crippled, leaving them to recover and
find their own way back to Nairobi. We got eighteen
Kikuyu porters from Piggott and started at 11 a.m., of
a beautiful day. Met Skein and Tyson, of the police,
whom I had met before at Fort Hall, about four miles out
of Nyeri. Lunch at one, and a swim at three. A very
pleasant ride to this beautiful spot, racing our ponies
along a good trail, singing, and jesting with the jovial
Kikuyus, with whom we waged mimic battles with long
reed spears. Reached here at five, making camp in a
beautiful hillside grove. The sultan sent over milk, eggs,
and fruit, for which we liberally "backsheeshed " him.
Fort Hall, November 7. Away at seven-thirty in the
rain. There is a French Catholic mission to the Kikuyus
near here, and we saw two of the sisters this morning.
We had several exciting Grecian battles with the Kikuyus
and there was some spirited jousting between T. and my
self. A swim at one. Fort Hall at one-thirty. Called on
Brown, a.d.c, and had tea. He had recently shot a
leopard and got a baby. Dined with Doctor Henderson,
a very entertaining fellow. Ridley has left for England,
with his pal and our former host, Seth Smith. His arm
will never be straight. T. found a letter here with the
news that Halckett, a good pal of his, was killed about
ten days ago by an elephant in Uganda. I received two
letters from my Mombasa bankers, relative to my letter
of credit, also a wire from home. Our Nyeri porters now
wished to bolt, but as we found we could get no more for
several days at Fort Hall we refused to let them go. To
bed at 11 p.m. !
Makindi River, November 8. Rained last night, also it
was very hot, and there were many mosquitoes on the
warpath, so that I hardly slept at all. Away at seven-

two] NAIROBI 333
thirty, in a terrific downpour, which lasted until eleven.
We rode slowly along behind the safari, stopping occa
sionally to shoot, T. bagging three brace of guinea fowl
and two of spur fowl, and I two of guinea fowl and one
of spur fowl. We did twenty-seven miles today, not
reaching camp until six-thirty however, as the trail was in
frightful condition. As we took no lunch, it may be im
agined how we enjoyed our dinner of soup, roast "twen
ty-one shilling bird," curry and rice pudding. Porters
all done up.
T.'s bungalow, just outside Nairobi, November 9. King
Edward's Birthday. It rained heavily last night, and
until nine this morning. Rest of the day showery. We
rode into Nairobi, thirty-eight miles, stopping for tiffin at
Heatly's ranch, and reaching T.'s bungalow in time for
tea with Newland at five- thirty. We left the safari to come
on by itself in two days. I borrowed parts of dress
clothes from Newland and others, and flaunted it with the
beauty and fashion of Nairobi at Lord Sadler's ball,
given at his bungalow in honor of King Edward's birth
day. A very gay evening. To bed at three-thirty, after
riding back from Lord Sadler's in the rain and mud.
Nairobi, November 10. Up at nine. Busy all day
straightening out affairs, accounts, and outfit. The sa
fari rolled in at ten-thirty. Paid off and sent back our
Nyeri porters with a pipe as a Christmas present to Pig
gott, who had recently broken the only one he had. Cabled
father. Received home mail forwarded from Mombasa.25
25 This reading of long delayed mail in a far away land, is not all that
it's cracked up to be. I generally find that letters so long looked forward
to, are, to a large extent, disappointing. Many friends cease to write when
you are out of sight and out of mind, others write perfunctorily as an irk
some duty, and probably tell you about the weather; some even say disagree
able things, net taking the trouble to think how unpleasant it will be to read
such productions in the loneliness of the remote African wilderness. All
this has a depressing effect upon the lonely and sensitive traveler, with the
result that the reaction almost makes him wish he had not read the dis
illusioning epistles. Newspapers are at all events interesting. There is

334 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
Nairobi, November 11. Preparations for a safari to
the Athi River and beyond. Bought stores and pocha
for the men, also a 318 Westley Richards accelerated ex
press, cordite, as the sighting of my mannlicher is de
ranged. This rifle, which had been used a little and
which I got at a very reasonable figure, is sighted just
the way I like, having an aluminum line in the back leaf.
I prefer a rather coarse back-sight for field work, rather
than the very fine V with which my mannlicher is fitted
and which is preferable for target shooting. Sold my
donkeys at a slight gain, and one pony for a loss of fifteen
rupees, which is rather good, considering that I have had
ten weeks hard use of him, that his condition is run down
from lack of good feed, and the prevalence of tsetse fly
and horse sickness. I sold him to the Duke of Penuran-
da, one of a party of three Spanish noblemen who are
starting off on safari today with a truly noble amount of
luggage and outfit, requiring one hundred and sixty por
ters. Discussed with several residents the best places to
find kudu -Kiu, Voi or M'toto Andei. Saw to the pre
serving of my skins, and left the trophies with T. who
has volunteered to pack and ship them. Called on Jack
son, the lieutenant governor of B.E.A., and wrote eleven
letters this evening to various parts of the world, Africa,
China, Java, Greece, France, and the United States. No
cable yet received from father in reply to mine. Turned
in at twelve.
Athi Plains, November 12. Up, bathed, breakfasted
and packed by seven-thirty. Also two more letters writ
ten. Had to wait till ten o'clock, as I was having some
nothing personal about them, though they afford but cold comfort. But
there are some letters which it really does one good to read; some have
thought of the wanderer and are written so kindly and with such evidently
good feeling, as to bring a grateful glow to his heart. But such are few
and far between. From the rest he turns with relief to listen once more to
the familiar tongues of the never-ill-natured or fickle trees, to study their
rare books, and wish himself better qualified to profit by the sermons in the
stones.

two] ATHI RIVER 335
much needed laundry done. Started the safari off for
the Athi River at eleven. Lunched with T. and Newland,
and bade them goodbye at two, riding after the safari on
my remaining pony. No wire yet received from father.
Have left word with the bank and Newland to forward
any wire arriving by the fourteenth, to the Athi River
station ; to M'toto Andei any which come before the twen
ty-second; after that to Mombasa. Tried several long
range practice shots with my new rifle at distant thomp
son gazelles, so as to get used to the new sighting. I
find that it requires rather more foresight than the mann
licher. Missed four tommies between three and five hun
dred yards during the afternoon, but bagged a very nice
grant at three hundred and twenty paces. Caught up
with the safari at four, and camped by a tiny trickle of
water through the veldt. Went out after wildebeest and
succeeded in finding a small herd, about six, as it began
to grow dark. Crept up within two hundred and fifty
yards unnoticed. Lying down, I broke the foreshoulder
of a nice bull. The herd went off, but he stopped at about
three hundred and ten yards and looked back, which
proved unfortunate for him. Quite a nice head. The air
is very clear and Kilimanjaro shows up very distinctly.
It was beautiful at sunset, with the red afterglow upon
its great snow fields. Back to camp at seven-thirty to
find Salem laid up with rheumatism, so played ' ' Every
man his own waitress ' ' this evening.
Athi River (Eighteen Yards), November 13. Rained
during the night, and poured in perfect torrents all day
long. I didn't break camp until 8 a.m. vainly hoping that
it might clear. Pushed on seventeen miles through the
mud, slush, and rain here to the Athi River, which we
reached at 2 :30 p.m. Had to keep constantly cheering on
the men today with songs and jokes (I have learned a few
stock Swahili jokes from T., such as "If you are cold,
work harder and you will get warm"), as they were wet,
cold, and miserable, and the going was very bad. Missed

336 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
an easy hartebeest and then two tommies at about three
hundred yards in the driving rain, but later dropped
another hartebeest in his tracks at two hundred and
eighty-five yards under the same conditions. Ate some
Peter's chocolate for tiffin, and went out to look for lion
or hippo tracks, or to pick up a water buck or hartebeest.
Bagged rather a nice head of the latter at one hundred
and fifty yards, and later missed a poor water-buck at
about two hundred and fifty. Saw some likely pools for
hippo with fresh spoor and some old lion tracks. Still
raining when I turned in at seven-fifteen.
M'toto Andei, November 15. Went out early yester
day morning in the rain and found a small herd of hippos
in the shallows of the second pool I visited. Got quite
close and dropped the biggest (who proved to have a very
fine pair of tusks) and managed to bag a second one be
fore they found shelter in deep water. It is rather tame
sport, as although you must aim for the brain they are
easy to kill if one gets a good shot at them. Left some
boys to cut out the tusks and pushed on to the Stony Athi
River, a tributary to the Athi River, hoping to find a good
water-buck, but with no luck. Came across a deserted hut
with the remains of what must have once been a stone
quarry, surrounded by a considerable plantation. Sent
my trophies back to T., with the porters whom I had
engaged at Nairobi and whom I now paid off and dis
missed, as I shan't need them at M'toto Andei, where I
shall camp in the station. Entrained for M'toto Andei at
1 p.m., intending to try for lesser kudu. There were two
nice chaps in my carriage ; one of them named Walters,
the government superintendent at Nairobi, is going home
in the same boat with me, the French Mail, which leaves
Mombasa, November twenty-eighth. He has been trans
ferred to some station on the West Coast. Arrived here
at 1 :30 a.m., and laid down until six, when I sallied
forth, feeling, however, rather slack, after a bad night.

two] M'TOTO ANDEI 337
My joints are all stiff and sore from being constantly in
wet clothes, owing to the heavy rains, and to crawling
on my stomach through the mud. M'toto Andei is prac
tically at sea level, and is frightfully hot. Mosquitoes
and ticks galore. The country is dense thorny bush mi
mosa, accasia and mapani, like Ceylon, but with hardly
any water. Saw nothing all morning, and tiffined and
had a snooze under the shade of a great rock at noon.
Saw a duiker about four, and with a well directed shot
from my unerring cannon, I brought the great brute to
his knees in the midst of his terrific charge. He had a
nice head of nearly three and one-half inches. Came up
on a small, but clear and very refreshing stream, at sun
set, which was very pretty, with the gold and crimson
light upon it. I have got all my outfit inside the waiting
room here, where I sleep. Early to bed.
M'toto Andei, November 16. Off at six. Saw a bush
buck at seven-thirty, and as we were in need of fresh
meat, I fired at about one hundred and twenty yards. He
disappeared instantly, and I thought I had lost him, but
he had merely dropped down dead into the long grass
from a little hummock upon which he had been standing.
About 9 a.m. came to a sort of stony kopje, covered with
rocks, rising sheer out of a mass of thorny undergrowth.
Climbed it, and found a herd of about twenty lesser kudu
grazing on the farther side. I watched them for an hour
or so, but they were all females or totos. Had a grand
view of the snowy peak of Kilimanjaro rearing itself up
through the clouds. Intensely hot today, and swarms of
ticks about. About 4 p.m. came suddenly upon two
lesser kudu buck -one with a fair head and the other
immature. I dropped the better one with an easy shot
at one hundred yards, and he proved to have a nice head
of twenty-three inches. They are a beautiful and graceful
buck, reckoned second only to the sable. The head skin is
lovely. Bagged a couple of spur fowl on the way home.

338 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
M'toto Andei, November 17. Juma laid up with the
rheumatism. I shall take this opportunity to compare
somewhat the characters of Juma and Jeramba, the two
gun boys. Jeramba has gotten bravely over bis sulki-
ness of the first part of the trip, thanks mainly, I think,
to discipline, but he is still inclined to shirk his work if
not watched, and is not particularly keen on the game.
He is what the Swahilis call a maladadi [a dandy] and
considers himself rather nobbily dressed in the cast-off
clothes of a former master, which he wears with some
thing of a swagger. He is not at all anxious to press for
ward or be handy in the presence of big game, but very
fond of posing over it when down, or to stand carelessly
about giving orders to the porters with his hands drip
ping blood during the skinning process. As a matter of
fact, he revels in the giving of orders, and feels his oats
very much ; but he is a good skinner and a good linguist,
and proved very useful when dealing with the Masai.
Juma, on the other hand, is a silent little fellow, with,
however, a merry smile and a twinkle in his eye. His
boots are worn out, and such clothes as he boasts are in
tatters; but he is always on hand in a tight place with
the extra gun, and is just as keen for sport at the end of
the day as in the beginning. He has phenomenal eye
sight, and can often distinguish game better than I can
with the binoculars. I remember one day, near M'Gunga
Lake, we saw some black specks moving along a hillside
about a mile away; even with our glasses T. and I thought
they were buffalo, but Juma instantly declared them to be
rhino, and he proved to be right. Neither of these men
are good trackers, compared to the North American In
dians, or even the Wanderobo. It is a good plan to im
press upon one's gun boys, that they are never, under
any circumstances, to fire a gun themselves, because they
are extraordinarily bad shots ; and if the gun is fired, in
the event of a charge by a dangerous animal, and you
reach for your extra gun, it is embarrassing, to say the

Thorny Jungle about M'toto Andei, Kiliman
jaro in the Distance
(Bii permission of Messrs. Undenrood and Under/rood )

OUTSIDE MOMBASA 341
least, to find it empty. Incidents of this kind have cost
many men their lives. Neumann had a close call with an
elephant, and was three months recovering from the effect
of his gun boy's carelessness.
Away at six. Before seven saw a female lesser kudu
and a bush-pig, which I let go. At eight-fifteen came
upon a nice kudu buck. He saw me first, and started
off with the remarkable speed which characterizes all the
antelope family, but I was lucky enough to make one of
the most useful shots I have pulled off so far, knocking
him down at one hundred and fifty yards, on the wing, so
to speak. As I only hit him in the tummy, however, he
got up again, and went off with a jump. Another lucky
shot, however, downed him for good. He had a fine head
of twenty-five and one-half inches. About eleven I shot
a nice chapman's zebra and returned to camp. Hitherto
I have had no lunches except some chocolate. Went out
again at three, but saw nothing. Bagged a guinea fowl
and two spur fowl coming home at dusk. There is not
much game here, and as I have got my two kudu (all I
am allowed) I think I'll go down to Mombasa by the train
which leaves tomorrow at midnight.
No wire yet from father.
Outside Mombasa, November 19. Had a restless,
broken night yesternight -heat and ticks -and developed
a bad go of fever during the day, which was unbearably
hot. To cap the climax, the porter who carried my water
bottle went and got himself lost in the bush, and I had
nothing to drink from six until three-thirty, when I came
upon a small stream, pretty well done up. I lay right
down in it, and drank my fill, and cooled off. I think I
had also gotten a touch of sun, as my head felt bad. Not
knowing at the time that I had fever, I held on, hoping
for an impala or a water-buck, and returned to camp at
seven, dead to the world, with only one guinea fowl to
my credit. Took a heavy dose of quinine, packed up and

342 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
boarded the train at midnight. Another bad night, and
as the fever still had me, I decided to rest in Mombasa,
doctor myself, and wind up my accounts until my ship
sailed, November twenty-eighth. Took my safari up to
Smith-McKenzie's warehouse, and loafed about the club
until noon, when I lunched with Forbes and Lake. Find
ing, however, that Mombasa was no cooler than the jun
gle, and feeling rather restless, I borrowed a stretcher
from some missionaries, ferried across the bay, and was
carried out here eight miles, en route to the Shimba Hills.
Very pretty camp in a palm grove near a little village.
Base Camp in the Shimba Hills, November 20. The
head man of the village sent me over a present of eggs,
young cocoanuts, and palm wine early in the morning. I
was carried on twenty miles with the safari through flat,
uninteresting cultivated country — the latter part, however,
rising into primeval jungle which covered the Shimba
Hills. Made a very snug camp under a big banyan tree
about one thousand feet above sea level, in the heart of
the hills and loafed all afternoon. The local sultan sent
me over a present of cocoanuts, bananas, pineapples, and
palm wine, and the promise of a good guide for the mor
row. I find this palm wine very good, and it is highly
recommended by the natives for fever. Have also been
taking a good deal of quinine, and though I am still
weak and feverish, think that I shall be able to shake
it off tomorrow. Beautiful starry evening.
Base Camp in the Shimba Hills, November 21. A
good night's sleep left me feeling much better this morn
ing. Started out at five-thirty through a lovely pale
green mora, and hunted the deep swampy valleys all
day. The vegetation and undergrowth is almost impene
trably thick, which makes the going very hard. Very
hot today, but plenty of pretty little brooks and pools of
water in the swamps. It rained for a couple of hours,
which made the long spear grass wet and unpleasant,

two] BASE CAMP IN THE SHIMBA HILLS 343
and the steep ravines slippery. Saw nothing but tracks.
Early to bed.
Base Camp in the Shimba Hills, November 22. An
other good sleep. Rained during the night. Away in
the cool, sea-green, half-lights of the dawning -the most
beautiful hour of the twenty-four in the tropics. Kept to
the dry, windy uplands today, where the grass is short,
and beautiful views of the sea are to be obtained. At
noon made out a distant herd of sable -perhaps twenty
females, of a reddish brown color, and one male, glossy
velvet black. After a long and careful stalk, got within
one hundred and fifty yards. The buck seemed to have
a very nice head, the horns curving back so as almost to
touch his arched neck, so I dropped him in his tracks
through the heart. A grand buck 26 he is, about the size
26 The following comment upon African game and the sable antelope in
particular by Captain F. J. Franklin of the South African Field Forces is
interesting :
" The home of the rare sable antelope is in East Africa and in the
country adjacent to the Zambezi and its tributaries. There is no finer
species of the antelope tribe than the sable, and for splendid sport he is
second to none. Towering well over seven feet in height, carrying an enor
mous pair of horns arching back of his great shoulders and hair-crested
neck, he presents a gallant and imposing appearance. ' '
The national crest of England is the familiar lion and the unicorn and
apropos of this, that well-known sportsman, F. G. Millais, says:
" Any one who has seen a wild sable antelope galloping cannot fail to
be struck by its resemblance to the unicorn. The whole appearance of the
animal bears a much closer likeness to that mythical creature than any
other living animal. In outline every point is similar except the horns, and
even those on the head of an immature animal when seen in profile are not
so very dissimilar. If there is any African animal alive to-day which is the
original of our national crest, it is the sable."
Captain Franklin goes on to say:
" Like other members of his tribe, the sable roams in herds, but as a
rule in smaller numbers than most antelope herds. Possessing the speed of
a raee horse together with tremendous strength and endurance, he is a
difficult animal to shoot. I have seen the sable antelope gallop away with
arched neck and defiant look, although severely wounded in several places.
I know of no animal that will carry more bullets. It is a proud moment
therefore for the hunter who gazes on his first sable, especially if it should
turn out to be a bull. He is exceedingly dangerous when badly wounded,
and no chances whatever should be taken with him. The hunter, if he is
wise, will make certain the sable has received his final coup de grace before
he is finally approached."
Arriving at a mature age, a, bull leaves his herd in search of a harem for
himself, and leads a solitary life until either by luck or conquest he secures
his own herd of females. The stories told by natives of the great fights by

344 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY [Vol.
of a polo pony, with noble lines and the reputation of a
fierce fighter. This one had a nice head of thirty-three
and one-half inches, and a beautiful, though somewhat
scarred head-skin. Sable are extremely rare, and as we
got back to the village the entire community turned out
to cheer and welcome us; our guides strutting along in
front, carrying the head, and looking as proud as I felt.
I am particularly glad to have gotten this sable today, as
it rounds the trip off well, and I really should leave for
Mombasa tomorrow in order to have plenty of time to
settle up my thousand and one little affairs. This even
ing in camp we were attacked by maji amoto ants (hot
water) who came swarming down from the palm trees.
They advance in long columns and bite like fiends, but we
finally beat them off with flat sticks and hot coals, and I had
this king of antelopes are perfectly marvelous. Only by doughty deeds and
great strength can this fabulous hero of the jungle retain possession of his
harem. The sable when attacked uses his magnificent sharp curved horns
with fatal effect. Fights between lions and sable bulls are not uncommon,
and on several occasions hunters have reported finding the dead bodies of
both animals after a fierce combat. In one of his first works, Mr. F. C.
Selous describes how out of a pack of strong dogs let loose after a wounded
bull, four were killed outright and four more badly wounded.
" The roan antelope, like his cousin the sable, has a grand appearance
and carries himself finely, though without the nobility of the sable."
' ' On account of his keen sense of smell and extreme nervousness a koodoo
requires a lot of stalking, and will disappear up the steep kopje or rock
with marvelous agility. If pressed very close he will force himself into
the thickest of the bush, hiding his head among broad leaves and mingling
his curved horns with the branches, remaining perfectly still. The hunter
may thus pass within a few yards and not notice him. But if discovered
and unable to escape, the koodoo will give up his life without further effort
to save it."
" From all I have gathered from the real old sportsmen who have all
their lives lived in regions where lions abound, from personal experiences
and from reading the accounts of returned hunters cum grano salis, I am
inclined to displace the lion, from his generally accepted position as king
of beasts. I would install rather the Cape Buffalo. . . This African
buffalo is truly a formidable beast and it is generally conceded that as
their numbers diminish the survivors grow more and more dangerous to
hunt. The lion or tiger is very often bagged from the security of a tree or
machan, the buffalo hardly ever. The sportsman must go down into the
low jungle country, find his prey, and then trust to his own nerve and skill.
On being wounded a buffalo will sometimes charge at once, the huge boss
of his horns protecting his brain and rendering an instantaneous fatal shot
almost impossible. His ferocity is only equaled by his cunning. He may
wait for hours feigning to run away, then double back upon his adversary
and charge him in the rear."

two] MOMBASA 345
a ring of the latter put around my tent to anticipate an
other sally. The following somewhat complicated sen
tence, which I threw off casually today, will give an idea
of my powers as a Swahili linguist. The construction
and word-endings are, of course, all wrong, but the sense
must have been clear, as I was perfectly understood by
my gun boys and the guide : ' ' Sejui, qua nini hapana
basa hoco hivi Shambi? Kesho-alfagiri sana, Mimi
twendi hoco na peegger Simba cha Shambi, sawa-sawa
Mimi peegger Simba cha M'Bogo 'nd Guasa Nyro."
Early to bed.
Mombasa, November 23. Off at five-thirty. Walked
a couple of miles and was carried the rest of the distance
(twenty-eight miles) back to Mombasa, bagging a couple
of spur fowl and a twenty-one- shilling bird en route.
Reached here at two-thirty, the boys pushing along stur
dily enough in the strength borne of the knowledge that
it was their last ' ' trek. ' ' Left my safari, outfit, etc., at
Smith- McKenzie's, and got a room at the club, where
both Simms and Lake (former acquaintances) had al
ready put me up. I got out the boxes of civilized clothes
which I left with S.M. and Company three months ago
and enjoyed a hot bath and a change. Yarned a bit with
some chaps at the club during the afternoon, and had
Forbes and Lake to dine with me. Met a lot of new ac
quaintances and renewed some old ones during the after
noon and evening. The crowd here is very pleasant and
light hearted -but inconsequential.
Mombasa, November 24. Busy all morning paying off
my men, giving them chits and backsheesh, and listing my
goods. Got father's wire at last, and replied that I was
leaving on the first boat, and would wire further as to my
movements when I had more information at Cairo.
Walker put me up at the Sports' Club where I had some
tennis in the afternoon. Newland came down from Nair
obi on business, and I lunched with him and Pickering.

346 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
Played several frames of piquet with Stuart before din
ner, and dined with Forbes and Simms'.
Mombasa, November 25. Busy all day selling the bal
ance of my safari goods and stores at about fifty per cent
loss, and settling up accounts with S.M. and Company.
Lunched with an interesting chap named Boyle, who
has knocked about all over the world. Tennis in the af
ternoon-Stuart and self beating Lake and Vineing, six-
three, seven -five. Piquet with Stuart; dined with Joseph,
an American ivory dealer, who has really a very decent
house for this part of the world, with well furnished
rooms and a good cook. We were a merry party of four,
Joseph, Boyle, Stuart and I, and didn't turn in until 3 a.m.
Mombasa, November 26. Had breakfast at their hotel
and a long chat with Scott and Neilson, who have just re
turned from their shoot. Between them they got one
elephant, one lion, one leopard, one cheetah, four rhino,
two buffalo, two eland, three gerenuk, one lesser kudu,
three oryx and the usual ordinary game. From what
everyone tells me, I must have the best bag of the season,
so far -pro rata; I mean the best bag for the time I was
out for my one gun (T. was shooting entirely " on his
own"). Lunched with Stuart, he has pleasant airy
chambers. Visited the old fort with Scott and Neilson
during the afternoon. Also did some writing. Another
wire from father. In the morning, I was busy list
ing, sorting, examining and arranging for the preserv
ing, packing, and shipping of my trophies. Beat Stuart
at tennis this afternoon, two -six, six— three, eight -six,
and also at piquet before dinner. Had Scott and Neil
son to dinner with me tonight. They are both most good
fellows, but their military duties weigh but lightly upon
them, as they have had ten months leave during the last
fourteen, and their talk is of nothing but shooting, polo,
and cricket, and how they can avoid doing this or that
duty or exam, like a couple of school boys. A crowd of

The last Trek

MOMBASA 349

drunks came into the club about ten, and there was quite
an orgy.
Mombasa, November 27. Two boats arrived from Eu
rope this morning, one French and one German, and the
little town, with its three tiny hotels and two clubs, is
full up, many people sleeping in railway carriages.
There are about a dozen prospective shooting parties
in town, one that of the Duke of Alva, a brother to Penur-
anda, to whom I sold my pony. Scott and I have been
congratulating ourselves on having had our shoot at a
time when there were but few other parties out. Of
course it was the rainy season, and we were perhaps not
quite so comfortable, therefore, as these chaps will be,
but after all, one expects to rough it when out for sport,
and the rainy season is undoubtedly the best time for
elephants. Paid for my passage, this morning, which I
had reserved some time ago, as the boat is said to be very
crowded. Lots of women and children going home on
leave from the French colony at Madagascar. Packed
my luggage and gave my guns a farewell cleaning, greas
ing them up well for the voyage. Called on a doctor, who
gave me some medicine for my fever, which has not quite
gone yet, and for a bad cold in the chest, which I have
picked up somehow. Stuart and I beat Walker and East-
ly at tennis, but Stuart got his revenge at piquet. I dined
with him, and spent the night at his house.
November 28. Put my luggage on board, paid my
adieus, and loafed about the club reading Neumann's
book during the morning. Our boat came in last night,
and I went on board after tiffin. The boat is small,
dirty, and crowded, mostly whiskered Frenchmen and
children. I know several people, however, and expect a
pleasant voyage - Lieutenant Neilson (Fourth Hussars),
Captain DeCrespigny, Mr. Skein, Mr. Walters, Mr. Par-
kenson, Mr. Stevenson, also a German gentleman and his
wife who have been out on safari. A rhino broke his leg

350 EXTRACTS FROM DIARY
just after starting, about two months ago, is now on
crutches, and is being taken home by his loving spouse, a
very beautiful and accomplished Frau. The accident oc
curred in this way : he was stalking buffalo, when the rhino
charged unexpectedly in thick cover. He lost his head,
and in attempting to run or dodge, he tripped and fell.
The rhino charged over him, breaking his leg and wound
ing him in the side, and passing on drove his boys into
trees. Luckily, however, it did not come back to finish
the job. We weighed anchor and steamed out of the
beautiful little harbor of Mombasa with the picturesque
ruins of its old Portuguese fort at two, and by sunset the
beautiful green shore of Africa had faded away, and we
were steaming northward and homeward over a calm blue
sea.

TWO MEN'S OUTFIT FOR THREE MONTH SHOOT
IN AFRICA, AND NOTES
Note. To the layman, this undoubtedly seems a very
large list, and to the sportsman experienced in long, tropi
cal expeditions, it will probably seem small. The task is
not to learn what to take, for any good book on tropical
hunting will suggest three or four times the following
outfit on one page of its appendix, but to know what not
to take. The principle to be guided by, if one wishes to
travel light, is to take nothing that you think you can
get along without. These lists do not aspire to be models,
but they represent far more than my own thought on the
matter and limited experience. They are the result of
having kept a "Hunting Note-book" for many years, in
which hints from books, friends, and chance acquaintan
ces were noted, as well as everything acquired at first
hand. My Personal Kit
1 Sleeping bag (3 thickness yager)
1 Serai (quilt)
1 Steamer blanket
2 Sheets (sewed to make bags)
1 Pillow and 2 cases
1 Mackinac coat (short)
1 Sweater
1 Rubber shirt
1 Corduroy breeches
1 Khaki coat
1 Khaki breeches
2 Shikari suits (green, for thick jungle work)
5 Shirts (4 flannel; 1 silk)
3 Undershirts, light woolen

352 EXTRACTS FROM NOTE BOOKS [Vol.
4 Underdrawers (2 short; 2 long), hght woolen
3 Pairs pajamas
12 " socks (woolen)
4 Hats (1 topee, 1 double terai, 2 soft shooting hats)
5 Pairs boots (2 nailed, 2 old soft leather, 1 rubber, and
extra laces)
3 Pairs puttees (2 spiral, 1 leather)
Toilet case and shaving tackle
1 Dozen handkerchiefs (linen)
2 Silk (for dust and mosquitoes)
2 Towels
6 Cakes, carbolic soap (2 calverts, 20%)
1 Pair slippers and leech gaiters
1 Hair-clipper, 4 tooth-brushes, and 2 tins tooth-powder
1 Note-book and 1 diary - pencils, paper and envelopes
1 Fountain pen and ink
1 "Housewife" with pins, needles, thread, buttons, and
scissors
1 Tape measure
1 Compass
Library of the following books :
Central African Game and its Spoor
Notes on the Somali Language
A Handbook of the Swahili Language
Records of Big Game by Rowland Ward
PendennisHypatia Tale of Two Cities
Kenilworth The Holy Bible
Chapman's Homer
Stanford 's Maps of : Equatorial East Africa
Uganda
Boran
1 Pair dark smoked glasses
1 Despatch box (with lock and key) for money and papers,
sealing wax, etc.
1 Canvas roll (for bedding)
2 Steel boxes " (with lock and key) for the above list

? Pocket editions - Japan paper, limp leather

2' Metal boxes are a necessity, as the white ants will eat through wood
or leather.

two] AFRICAN SHOOTING OUTFIT 353
Battery, etc.
1 500/450 Cordite (Holland and Holland) with cartridge
belt, and 100 rounds of soft-nose and 30 rounds of steel
cartridges; and case
1 9 M/m mannlicher, with cartridge belt and 250 rounds of
soft-nose and 50 rounds of steel cartridges ; and case
1 33 Winchester, with cartridge belt and 100 rounds soft-nose ;
and case
1 318 wesley richards accelerated express; with case, and
70 rounds of soft-nose and 50 rounds of steel
1 12 bore ball-and-shotgun with belt for shells, 50 buckshot,
50 No. 4, 100 No. 6, and 20 ball shells; and case
1 45" Colt automatic revolver with holster and 100 cartridges
1 Sheath knife and belt
Proper cleaning tackle for the above and a whetstone
1 Pair binoculars, and case
1 Thermos bottle and case
1 Water bottle
2 Hip pouches for cartridges, etc.
1 Belt pouch for pipe, tobacco, medicine, notebook, tape, etc.
1 Steel box for ammunition
1 Compass
1 Waterproof match box
2 Pipes and 3 lbs. tobacco, and 1 box 50 cigars
Preservatives for Skins, etc.
30 lbs. Alum
30 " Salt
8 " Arsenical soap
4 " Naphthalene
4 Skinning knives
Nails and twine for stretching skins
Medicine Kit -For self and safari
3 Rolls surgeon's tape (plaster)
2 lbs. Cotton wool
1 lb. Lint
1 Doz. bandages
1 Piece oiled silk
1 Ankle supporter

354 EXTRACTS FROM NOTE BOOKS  [Vol.
1 Pair scissors and 1 pair tweezers
400 Tabloids quinine (five grains)
1 Tin of zinc ointment
5 lbs. epsom salts
1 Pint castor oil
2 Pints lysol (disinfectant)
4 Oz. iodoform
1 Bottle aristol
2 Oz. pine balsam (for bruises, etc.)
100 Grs. Waburg's tincture (for fever)
1 Bottle permanganate of potash tabloids
1 " dysentery mixture
100 ' ' rhubarb and soda pills
1 Bottle oil of citronella
1 Tin of Allen's footease
1 Strychnine cure, with hypodermic (for snake bites)
1 Small bottle oil of cloves (for toothache)
Dental floss
Food Stuffs,28 etc- Packed in Chop Boxes
Flour, 65 lbs.
Pea Flour, 6 lbs.
Rice, 35 lbs. (finest patna)
Quaker Oats, 18 lbs.
Sugar, 26 lbs. (granulated)
Salt, 16 lbs.' (cooking)
" 3 lbs. (table)
Tea, 6 lbs.
Cocoa, 6 lbs.
Buscuits (crackers), 14 lbs.
Tinned vegetables, 18 tins (assorted : peas, beans, asparagus)
Tinned meats, 22 tins (assorted: tongue, ham, bacon, corned beef,
etc.)
Tinned fish, 8 tins (assorted: kippered herring, sardines, etc.)
Soup squares, 18 (in tins)
Lemco and Bovril, 6 small bottles (for soup)
Condensed milk, 16 tins (Swiss) ; 20 small tins ideal cream.
28 These goods were not all bought to start with, but included the second
outfitting at Nairobi on November 10.

two] AFRICAN SHOOTING OUTFIT 355
Jams and marmalade, 14 tins
Cheese, 6 tins
Butter, 12 tins
Tapioca and corn flour for puddings, 6 lbs.
Flavoring essence, 3 small bottles
Curry powder, 4 bottles
Tinned fruits, 6 tins
Dried fruits, 5 tins
Baking powder, one and one-half lbs.
Hops, 2 tins
Suchard's chocolate, 6 lbs.
Lea and Perrin's Worcestershire sauce, 2 bottles
Pickles, 6 bottles
Chutney, 3 bottles
Vinegar, 1 pint bottle
Lucca oil, 1 pint bottle
Pepper, 1 small bottle
Potatoes, 90 lbs.
Onions, 30 lbs.
Cake, 1 tin
Cooking fat, 12 lbs. (I also used eland fat)
Extract of meat, 2 small bottles
Candles, 8 doz.
Kerosene oil, 8 qts.
Matches, 6 pkts.
Whiskey, 1 case Perfection, also 1 qt. Dewar 's
Brandy, 1 qt.
Lime juice, 3 qts.
Claret, 1 case (12 pint bottles)
1 Syphon bottle (Sparkloid)
Sparklets, 18 doz.
Filter, 1
Dubbing, 1 tin (for boots)
Toilet paper, 2 pkgs.
Insect powder, 3 tins
1 Corkscrew
2 Tin openers
2 Pie dishes
2 Soup plates

356 EXTRACTS FROM NOTE BOOKS [Vol.
Tiffin basket : with two each of plates, cups, saucers, mugs, knives,
forks, spoons, boxes for food, spirit stove, kettle, flask of spirits,
napkins, tablecloths, etc.
Extra corks Transport
2 Mules, bought Sept. 1 ; sold Nov. 11 and Nov. 24
2 Ponies, " " 9; " " "and 
26 Porters, used during bulk of Shoot, 90 extra porters being
engaged at Nyeri and Meru to take extra pocha, etc. See
Diary
1 Carrying hammock, borrowed from British Mission, Mom
basa, for trip to Shimba Hills
Safari Outfit for Two Men
1 Tent with fly, ground sheet, pegs, and poles (lent by Mr.
Pape)
2 Camp chairs*
1 Canvas lounge chair (kept for use on steamer)
2 Beds (canvas)*
2 Mosquito nets*
1 Table*
1 Canvas bath*
1 Enamel basin and pitcher*
4 Canvas buckets*
2 Saddles and bridles*
2 Halters*
2 Horse blankets*
1 Sickle*
1 Curry comb and brush*
1 Extra tarpaulin* (to keep stores and skins dry in wet
weather)
1 Spade*
1 Big ax and 2 small axes*
2 Files* (1 given to Masai Chief)
1 Saw*
2 Bush knives*
5 lbs. Assorted nails
2 Big pots and covers*

two] AFRICAN SHOOTING OUTFIT 357
1 Box, containing:
16 Pieces (frying pan, reflector, tea pot, etc.)*
1 Knife*
3 Lanterns (combination oil and candle)
1 Meat chopper*
1 Measure*
6 Pkts. thread, and 6 needles
5 Rolls (100 yds.) Americani cloth for porters' tents and
trading purposes
5 lbs. Coarse thread
3 Coils extra rope (for packages and tent)
1 Box coarse soap (for washing clothes, blankets, sheets, etc.)
1 Mallet
5 lbs. Beads in strings (for trading)
42 Water bottles (1 per man)
42 Blankets (1 per man)
42 Jerseys (1 per man)
10 Prs. boots and spiral puttees (for head man, gun boys, tent
boy, askaris, cook, and mate)
9 Khaki suits (for head man, gun boys, tent boy, cook, and
askaris)
6 Chop boxes (with lock and key)
1 Tin for oil
1 Hammock (borrowed for Shimba Hill trip)
4 Snyder rifles (for askaris) with 60 rounds of cartridges and
belts
20 Gunny sacks (for packing loads in)

* Resold November 25 and 26.

ACCOUNTS AND GAME REGULATIONS
Account with Baraka Mabruki (Headman)

Aug. 28 and 29 Pocha for self, C, A., B., 2-GB, 4 As. 15
porters
" 30 " 31 Pocha for self, C, A., B., 2-GB, 4 As. 15
porters
Sept. 12 To cook, for wood, eggs and milk
" 14 For wood,
" 20 " 21 To wood, eggs, milk and beads for trading
To wood
tt a
" " and pocha for Kikuyu porteTS
Personal advance
Given to Askari Mambawa, by headman
To wood,
it tt
Received from Juma on trust
To present to Shimba Chief
Paid Juma Total

Game Regulations
THIRD SCHEDULE
Animals, limited numbers of which may be killed or captured
under a sportsman's or public officer's license, £50. Number
Kind Allowed
1 Elephant (having tusk ivory weighing not less than 60 lbs.) 2
2 Rhinoceros ....... 2
3 Hippopotamus ....... 2
4 Zebra ........ 2
5 Antelopes and Gazelles .....
Class A
Eland (Taurotragus) ..... 1
Oryx (Gemsbuck Calotis or Beisa) ... 2

Oct.

19

* i

31

Nov.

5

t i

6

i i

6

i t .

9

1 1

8

i i

12

i i

12

t i

22

I i

24

R 88
43 82
52 4

A 0
00 88
8 88 88

R 1
52

A

92

8

53

0

ACCOUNTS AND GAME REGULATIONS

359

Number
Kind Allowed
Hippotragus (Sable) ..... 1
" (Roan) ..... 1
Strepsiceros (kudu) except in the Baringo District . 2
Topi (Damaliscus Jimela) .... 2
Neumann's Hartebeest (BubdUs Neumanni) . . 2
Bongo (Boocercus Eurycerus Isaaci) ... 1
6 Colobi and other fur monkeys .... 2
7 Aard-varks (Orycteopus) ..... 2
8 Cheetah (Cynaelurus) ..... 2
9 Aardwolf (proteles) ...... 2
10 Two ostriches - male [taken off the schedule in July, 1908]
11 Marabout ....... 2
12 Egret of each species ..... 2
13 Antelopes and Gazelles .....
Class B
Any species other than those in Class A . . .10
14 Chevrotains (Doreatherium) ..... 10
Topi (Jubaland only) ..... 8
Notice
A special license may be granted to the holder of a sports
man's or public officer's game hcense by a sub-commissioner of a
province authorizing such person to hunt, kill, or capture any of
the following animals:
1 Bull buffalo
1 Bull eland
1 Bull giraffe
Provided that no license to Mil a buffalo in the Province of
Ukamba shall be granted.
The fee payable for such special license is rupees seventy-five
(Rs. 75) in respect of each animal. All fees are payable in ad
vance and are not returnable in the event of no animal being
killed or captured under a special hcense.
FOURTH SCHEDULE
Animals limited number of which may be killed or captured
under a Settler's license.

Kind
1 Hippopotamus
2 The following Antelopes and Ga
zelles only,
(a) Grant's Gazelle

Number or Animals Allowed
2. 5 animals in all in any calendar
month made up of animals of a
single species or of several; provid-

360

EXTRACTS FROM NOTE BOOKS

Kind
(b) Thompson's Gazelle
(c) Jackson and Coke's Harte
beest (Bubalis)
(d) Impala (Aepyceros)
(e) Reedbuck (Cervicapra)
(f) Duiker (Ce'phalophus)
(g) Klippspringer (Oreotagus)
(h) Steinbuck (Rhapiceros)
Waterbuck (Cobus)
Wildebeest (Gnu) Conno-
chaetes
(k) Bushbuck (Tragelaphus
Roualeyni)
Paa (Medoqua and Nesotra-
gus)

Number op Animals Allowed
ed, however, that not more than 10
animals altogether of any one spec
ies shall be killed during the period
for which the license is available
. other than Grant's Gazelle, Thomp
son's Gazelle, Jackson's and Coke's
Hartebeest (Bubalis), Reed Buck

(i)
(J)

(1)

Notice
THE EAST AFRICA GAME ORDINANCE, 1906
In pursuance of the powers conferred upon me by Section 13
of the East Africa Game Ordinance 1906, I hereby give notice
that upon the apphcation of the holder of a sportsman's or public
officer's game license, permission may be given to shoot or capture
additional animals, as follows, and additional fees as herein pre
scribed shall be paid in respect thereof.
2 Rhinoceros .... additional fee Rs
1 Elephant .... <(<<<<
2 Zebra . . . . <<<<<<
2 Wildebeest and 2 Waterbuck . " " "
Antelope under Class A in the
third schedule 1 of each . . " it tt
Under Class B except Wildebeest
and Waterbuck 10 additional . " " "
J. Hates Sadler, His Majesty '» Commissioner
Mombasa, Dated this 14th day of April, 1906.

75 each
250 "
30 "
30 "
45 "
20 "

Name
Baraka Mabruki
Nasoru bin Saliman
JerambaJuma Jehari
Salim Saliman
Moosa Simarihani
Juma Sani
Mambwa
Baruka Mohamed
Kibiriti 'Nyamwezi
M'kasa Uganda
Moosa bin Salim
Malimu bin Unari
Taratibi 'Nyamwezi
Shami 'Nyamwezi
Kombo bin Ali
Hamis Wadihari
Mambo bin Hamid
Malimu bin Osani
Kofu Kulan
Figirini Faruzi
Hamis bin Saadi
Malim bin Jumi
Hamidi bin Assam

When
engaged
Aug. 27

25
2626 26

27

Where
engaged
Mombasa

Porter

Roll Call of Safari
Rate op Pay Rating

30
30 30 25 15 1212
1210
10 101010
10 10
10 10
101010
1010
10

Remarks

Head man
Cook

Advanced Rs. 1-2-6.50-1
Rs.4

Gunboy

Fined Rs. 5 for disobedience, sulkiness and

idleness

< t
Tent boy
Askari

Very capable
Fined Rs. 1 for neglect, advanced Rs. 2

t (

Rs.l Adv.

1 1

Rs.1-5 Adv.

Cook's mate

Discharged at Nairobi; hurt Aug.

Discharged at Nyeri (unfit) ; and paid in
full Nov. 6

Rs. 1 Advanced
Rs. 1 Advanced
Advanced Rs. 2

Name

When

Where

Rate op Pat

ENGAGED

ENGAGED

Faruzi bin Abdulla

Aug. 27

Mombasa

Rs

10 per mo

M'chumu

Sept. 1

Nairobi

1 1

10 " "

Mas

i (
10 " "
Mooley
t i
10 " "
Hussein
1 1
10 " "
Fauzi
1 1
10 " "
Owieno Kavirondo
1 1
10 " "
Tumbu Mufani
1 1
10 " "
D 'voko
1 1
10 " "
Manyorke
1 1
10 " "
Juma Nandi
t i
10 " "
Garry ya Mosi
1 1
10 " "
Kula Letty
1 1
10 " "
Malie
1 1
10 " "
Karunfa
1 1
10 " "
Arry Gwaza
1 1
10 " "
Karanje
1 1
10 " "
Kwanzi
1 1
20 " "
Kitinga
1 1
15 " "
Mulu
1 1
12 " "
N'dolo
" 4
Tana River
t i
10 " "
4 Porters
Nov. 19
Mombasa
1 1
5 " tri
Rating
Porter
Remarks
Rs.l Adv.
Rs.l Adv.; bolted Sept. 3
Adv. Rs. 1 ; paid off at Athi River on Nov. 14
Adv. Rs. 1 ; paid off at Athi River on Nov. 14
Adv. Rs. 1 ; paid off at Athi River on Nov. 14
Adv. Rs. 1 ; bolted Sept. 3
Adv. Rs. 1 ; paid off at Athi River on Nov. 14
Adv. Rs. 1-1.50; paid off at Athi River on
Nov. 14
Adv. Rs. 1 ; paid off at Athi River on Nov. 14
Adv. Rs. 1 ; paid off at Athi River on Nov. 14
Adv. Rs. 1-6 ; paid off at Athi River on Nov.
14
Adv. Rs. 1 ; discharged at Nyeri unfit and
paid in full Nov. 6
Adv. Rs. 1 ; bolted Sept. 3
Adv. Rs. 1 ; paid off at Athi River on Nov. 14
Adv. Rs. 1 ; bolted Sept. 3
Adv. Rs. 1 ; paid off at Athi River on Nov. 14
Adv. Rs.l; bolted Sept. 3
Gunboy for T. Adv. Rs. 1 ; paid off at Nairobi, Nov. 10
Tent boy for T.Adv. Rs. 1; paid off at Nairobi, Nov. 10
syce Adv. Rs. 1 ; paid off at Nairobi, Nov. 14
Porter Adv. Rs. 1 ; paid off at Athi River on Nov. 14
trip Carriers To carry hammock to Shimba Hills; paid off
at Mombasa, Nov. 24
364

EXTRACTS FROM NOTE BOOKS

[Vol.

Notes: the Headman receives 4 kibabas of rice (2 2/3 lbs.) per day

Gunboys '

' 3 "

" " (2 lbs.) " "

Tentboys '

3 "

" " (2 lbs.) " "

Cook '

' 3 "

" " (2 lbs.) " "

Askaris '

2 "

" " (11/3 lbs.) " "

Porters '

' 1% "

" " (1 lb.) " "

Syce '

' 1% "

" " (1 lb.) " «

Where no rice is obtainable, the men should be given what
ever native pocha can be procured, i.e., mealy meals, beans, ma-
hinda flour, etc., at the same rate per day.
Where food is scarce, men will agree for a slight backsheesh,
(salt and tobacco are recommended as backsheesh) to take half
meat and half pocha, which is a very economical method for the
sportsman, if he is in a country where game is plentiful.
Besides a recruiting fee, of Rs. 1 for every man engaged, which
is charged by the party who engages them (i.e., Smith-McKenzie
and Co.), the government charges a registration fee of Rs. 1 for
every man taken out on safari, and the sportsman is responsible
for them.
Tariff : Rice (it varies, but say roughly) Rs. 5% per load of 60 lbs.
Mealy meal " " " " " 4% " " " " "
Beans " " " " " 3 " " " " "
Mahinda flour " " " " " 2% " " " " "
My List of Game - When and Where Shot

Date

Specie

Where shot

Aug. 31

1

Thompson gazelle

Athi Plains

Sept. 2

1 Hartebeest (coke)

Outside Nairobi

' 4

1

Hartebeest (coke)

Punda Malia

' 5

1

Bushbuck

it tt

6
1
Waterbuck
it tt
8
1
Bushbuck
Ithanga River
' 9
1
Reedbuck (bohor)
n it
' 9
1
Cobus cob
n it
' 10
1
Waterbuck
a it
' 10
1
Rhino
it tt
' 14
1
Hartebeest (jackson)
Near Nyeri
' 15
1
Blue ape
The Spurs of Kenia
' 17
1
Zebra (burchall)
Tagesa River
' 19
1
Grant's gazelle
The Spurs of Kenia
' 26
1
Rhino
Lekiundra River
' 26
1
Steinbuck
tt tt
' 26
1
Zebra (burchall)
tt tt
' 27
1
Grant's gazelle
it tt
' 27
1
Oryx
n a
two]

ACCOUNTS AND GAME REGULATIONS

365

28 1 Grant's gazelle
28 1 Impala
29 1 Crocodile
29 1 Grant's gazelle*
30 1 Lion
30 1 Oryx"
30 1 Grant's gazelle
30 1 Waterbuck* (defassa)
Oct. 1 2 Crocodiles
2 1 Wart hog
3 1 Rhino **
3 1 Grant 's gazelle *
4 1 Lion
5 1 Lioness
5 1 Hyena
5 1 Waterbuck (defassa)
7 1 Lioness
7 1 Hyena
8 1 Buffalo
8 1 Impala **
9 1 Impala
9 1 Aardwolf
10 1 Oryx
11 1 Gerenuk *
12 2 Wart hogs
12 2 Impala
12 1 Gerenuk
13 1 Impala
15 1 Baboon
17 1 Oribi
18 1 Eland
29 1 Elephant
Nov. 3 1 Thompson gazelle
4 1 Cerval cat
4 1 Zsbra (burchall)
5 1 Waterbuck
12 1 Grant's gazelle
12 1 Wildebeest
13 2 Hartebeests (coke)
14 2 Hippo
15 1 Duiker
16 1 Lesser kudu
16 1 Bushbuck
17 1 Lesser kudu
17 1 Zebra (chapman)
22 1 Sable antelope
Thirty-three different specie.
* Female ** Immature

Lekiundra River
ii a
Guasa Nyro River

Lekiundra River
it tt
Sultan Metheely's Country
M'Gunga Lake
The Spurs of Kenia

Nyeri
Athi Plains

Athi River
M'toto Andei

Shimba Hills

APPENDIX A
A list of industries and planting upon which notes were
kept.Canada. Grain Elevator
Japan. Silk-worm culture ; weaving ; cloisonne manufacture ; sat-
suma ware manufacture ; ivory and wood carving ; lacquer
ware; culture pearls; rice cultivation
Korea and Manchuria. Gold-mining; pottery making; millet
and hemp cultivation
Mongolia. Cattle raising and stock farming ; herding ; farming ;
pottery making
China. Tea culture; embroidery; cloisonne; Pekin enamel-ware
Formosa. Tea culture ; camphor growing ; lumbering
Java. Tea ; tobacco ; rubber ; rice ; coffee and cocoanut cultivation ;
battek work
Siam. Lacquer ware ; basket work
Burma and the Shan States. Timber yards ; lac farming ; pony
breeding
India. Rug making ; hammered brass ware ; pottery ; marble and
ivory carving ; enamel ware ; lace making and embroidery ;
tea culture (Darjeeling and Travancore)
Kashmir. Fruit growing; vineyards and wine-making; wood
carving ; rug making ; embroidery
Ceylon. Tea; coffee; cocoa; rubber; cocoanut; copra; vanilla;
pepper; cinnamon gardens and the growing of other
spices ; wood carving ; pearl fisheries
Africa. Ranching ; fibre farming ; ostrich farming
Selections from the above
Grain Elevator (July 3). . . In spite of the rain
and storm we had some splendid views of the bold capes

368 APPENDIX A

and headlands of Thunder Bay, and steamed into Port
Arthur at 4 p.m. After having rechecked all our luggage,
we set out to see the sights of this busy lake port. A
mammoth grain elevator, looming up like a mountain from
the shore of the bay, attracted our attention, and we de
termined to make an inspection of it. A placard bear
ing the inscription ' ' Positively No Admittance ' ' some
what overawed us, but writing "Pickands, Mather and
Company " on my card, I gave it to the first man I saw,
and asked him to take it to the manager. The manager,
Mr. Morgan, of the Peavey Company, came right out and
was most kind and obliging. I introduced him to John,
Purdy, and Hank, hinting that we were on a tour of in
spection, and would like very much to see his beautiful
elevator. He accordingly took us all over the gigantic
structure, and was a most interesting and instructive
guide. It is the largest grain elevator in the world, hav
ing a capacity of seven million bushels. The grain is
weighed when it first comes in, and then after being
cleaned and dried by powerful air fans, is stored in the
great cylindrical bins of steel-girded tiles. It is, of
course, weighed again before shipping, as it usually loses
somewhat in the drying process. The bins are about
eighty-five leet deep, and the total height of the elevator
is one hundred and sixty-five feet. The insurance on the
grain alone, when the elevator is full, amounts to four
million dollars.
Cloisonne Manufacturing (August 22). . . On
the way home Ted and I visited a cloisonne manufactory.
We were ushered through a delightful garden of water
falls, stone lanterns, and dwarf pines, and the proprietor
(who spoke English) entertained us with tea and cigar
ettes on a cool veranda. Here we were shown some mar-
velously tinted and elaborately designed examples of
this dainty ware, as well as some of the simpler floral
patterns in wistaria, lotus, iris, and chrysanthemum

Making Cloisonne
(By permission of Messrs. Underwood and Underwood)

BATTEK WORK 371

which the Japanese love. Later we were taken all
through the workshops and saw skilled artisans busy at
the various stages of the work. These craftsmen are as
skilled and as specialized as the medieval guild workers.
Even the very minutest work being done by hand with
a delicacy of touch which seems extraordinary. Some of
the pieces, which require the microscopic finesse of the
watchmaker recall the tales of the engraving of the
Lord's Prayer on a ten cent piece. There are four dis
tinct processes: first, the sketching of the design, often
from still life onto the bronze or silver vase or box and
the outlining of it in thin silver or gold wire glued to the
vase. Second, the filling in of this design in colored
enamel, of the proper tint and shade, toning, and baking
it. This last is done several times, as each baking causes
the enamel to shrink a bit. Third, the putting on of the
enameled background in one solid color (usually dark
blue or green) all around the design, and re-baking the
whole. Fourth, the polishing down and smoothing off of
the enamel with charcoal and stones of several different
grades. Even small pieces require from one week to ten
days to complete.
Battek Work. A sarong or skirt (worn by men and
women alike in Java) as well as the slandang and the
ham hapala, a square handkerchief worn as a variant of
the turban, are all made of the native cotton cloth or bat
tek, patterned in curious designs that have been in use
time out of mind. They are sold in all the passars, and
pedlars bring pieces of a beautiful design to spread out in
the veranda in front of one's room. Native fancy runs
riot in the designs, which vary from zig zag and ara
besque looking lines, to bold latticings and intricate curves,
quaint animal forms, and dainty interweaving of palm
leaves and ferns. The sarong's value depends upon the
fineness of the drawing, the beauty and elaborateness of
the pattern, and the number and brilliancy of the colors,

372 APPENDIX A [Vol.
ranging in price from two or three guilders np to fifty or
sixty. The Dutch are as eager as the natives of the bet
ter class to get hold of new and beautiful examples, and
vie with each other in the collection of the more valuable
ones. The ladies affect the sarong for the morning hours
in picturesque but rather unbecoming dishabille, and the
men use them in place of pajamas. Baron Van Heekeren
has a collection of very handsome and rare ones, upon
which he prides himself no little. In the native villages
or kampongs, we often watched men, women, and children
busily absorbed in the painting of these distinctive gar
ments, with a painstaking skill thoroughly oriental. The
cloth to be painted is stretched in front of the worker on
a frame like an artist's easel, and a first outline is traced
in a rich brown waxy dye which is the foundation and
dominant color in all these batteks. The parts which are
to be left white are covered with wax, and the cloth is
brushed over with the dye. Beside each worker is a pot
of colors simmering over a charcoal fire, and into the pot
is dipped a bamboo brush. At the end of this ' ' fountain
pen "is a little tin funnel tapering to a fine point, which
admits of broad sweeping curves like a painter's brush,
and will give the fine line and dot work of a pen and ink
drawing. Each color must be put on separately, and the
wax steamed out afterwards with hot water, so that a
sarong goes through several processes and is often the
work of weeks. The cheaper common garments are
painted by bright- faced children, but the better artists use
a variety of different quality brushes or pens, and putter
over their work like the most finicky oil painter.
Rug Making. At Serinagur, Delhi, and Jeypore, we
visited native shops where embroidery and rugs were be
ing made, and as one hears so much about the famous
Kashmir, Indian, and Turkoman rugs, I thought it might
be of interest to record a few facts, as well as my own
impressions. The most artistic rug makers of the world

two] RUG MAKING 373
are of course the Persians, who learnt the art of weaving
such fabrics from the Babylonians, centuries before
Christ. An ancient Jewish legend states that Naamah,
daughter of Lamech, and sister of Tubal Cain, was the in
ventor of the spinning of wool and the weaving of threads
into cloth. Persian rugs were used as portiers and as
covers for divans and couches by the artistic and luxuri
ous patricians of Greece and Eome. They were intro
duced into Spain by artisans from Shiraz and scattered
over Europe by the argosies of Venice and Genoa. The
Persian rugs were all woven by hand on rude looms, in
an infinite variety of patterns, no two being just alike -
hence their great value. The better rugs of today are
made in the same fashion, but the art of making the old
dyes, which were almost imperishable, has been largely
forgotten. Rugs used to be regarded by the Egyptians,
Persians, Arabians, and Greeks as works of art, and were
hung over balustrades, or on the walls like tapestry rather
than put to the more practical use of floor coverings.
The Persian rugs remain the most original and durable of
all such fabrics, and are the parent stock of the various
rugs of the world. The silk ones are of course the finest.
The Turkoman rugs of Khiva, Samarkand, and Bokhara
are among the choicest made in the east, the prevailing
tones being shades of maroon, dull blues, and creamy
whites. The finer ones have a closer pile than even the
Persians, with a rich smooth surface. Many devout Mo
hammedans always carry with them a praying rug of cheap
quality, whose conventional pattern, but often very curious
and pleasing detail of design, is familiar to everyone. The
best Kashmiri rugs use undyed camel's hair for the
ground work and border. The felt rugs of Kashmir,
Kashgar, the Ladak, and Thibet have often curious de
signs woven into them in silk. I had one of these Kash
miri felt rugs made for me in the Turkoman praying
panel, the work being done in the beautiful and well
known green-dragon design of Lhasa.

374 APPENDIX A [Vol.
At a big factory in Jeypore there were nearly fifty
looms going at once. The actual work was being done by
boys, under the supervision of a foreman, who read out
their instructions blindly -telling them how many blue,
red, or green threads to tie in from moment to moment,
although with no conception of what the ultimate design
was to be. This existed only in the mind of the artist
who had planned it, and in the numbers on the paper,
which meant nothing to the workers who might as well
have been blind. The rug is woven onto warps in parallel
strands, and to these strands the threads of silk, wool, or
camel's hair are tied. The pile and, therefore, the value
of a rug is dependent upon the number of knots tied to a
square inch of warp. Some of the more valuable ones
run up into the hundreds, and are worth exorbitant sums.
There is a constant snipping off of the fag ends of the
thread, with the sharp queer shaped knives which the
boys handle very dexterously. They hold these curved
blades in the left hand all the time, even while tying the
knots or straightening out tangled threads, yet I have
never seen them cut a wrong thread. When a row of tuft
has been knotted, it is pressed down even and hard with a
little comb-like apparatus and a cross strand is woven in
to hold it together. The warp itself is often linen and
sometimes cotton.
The bas reliefs on the rock tombs of Egypt and marbles
of ancient Nineveh, speak eloquently of the past glory of
this art. The Saracens, who believed that all labor tend
ed to the glory of God, carried their craft with them into
Sicily, Spain, Prance, and Egypt. It is said that Cleo
patra, when Cesar refused to admit her, was first carried
into his presence wrapped in a beautiful silk rug, well
knowing, cunning witch, what an excellent background
the brilliant colors would make for her all-subduing
charms. The patient toilers of the east spend years in
the working out of the perfect harmony and soft rich
color scheme of their artistic designs. Many a story of

two] RUBBER PLANTING 375
life and love is woven with the thread into the fabric -
many a song of joy, many a dirge of woe and despair.
Marble Carving and Inlaying as typified in Repair
ing the Indian palaces. The work of repairing and re
storing some of these splendid palaces at Agra and Delhi,
which was inaugurated by Lord Curzon, and is being car
ried on by the British government, gave us a better idea,
than almost anything else could, of the immensity of the
task which the Mogul princes undertook and the bar
baric grandeur with which they carried it out. In the
palace at Agra, a section of pierced marble balustrade of
very fine workmanship (though not remarkable for India,
and by no means to be compared with many others we
saw) was being duplicated to fill a gap of about twelve
feet. There were eight natives working on it with hand
drills, as carefully and slowly as though they had been
cutting diamonds, and the Italian foreman told us that it
would take them nearly two years to complete it, and the
skilled work would cost the government £1000! A few
bits of wonderfully decorative mural paintings had been
touched up with gold leaf and emblazoned in colors ; and
the jeweled design of one panel in the jassamine tower
has been replaced with semi-precious stones at a cost of
over £1000. I remember an Englishman in the public
works department in Burma telling me that the man who
made the highest bid to secure the task of cleaning out
the gutters and drain tanks of the Schwe Dagon Pagoda,
retired afterwards on a very pretty little fortune. The
rain water by gradually washing off the gold leaf which
had been put on to the value of thousands of dollars dur
ing the preceding nine or ten years by the monks and
pious individuals, had converted these tanks into veritable
gold mines.
Rubber Planting. The families of plants yielding
caoutchouc thrive in tropical parts of the world where

376 APPENDIX A [Vol.
high temperature is combined with moisture. Although
known and used in very early times by the South Ameri
cans and Chinese, it was not introduced into Europe until
nearly the middle of the eighteenth century by M. De la
Condamine, who had noticed it under the name of cachu-
chu on his voyage down the Amazon. He describes it as
in constant use among the natives in the form of bottles,
boots, etc., and for making cloth waterproof. The best
rubber comes from Para, in South America, and from
Assam. It is largely grown in the Malay Peninsula about
Penang, in Sumatra, Java, and other islands of the Arch
ipelago. Along with tea, cinnamon and cinchona, it was
introduced into Ceylon at the time of the coffee blight in
1880. The largest of the Assam trees, the Ficus elastica,
attains a girth of over seventy feet, but most of the trees
are smaller. It takes about seven years for a tree to ma
ture sufficiently to produce, and they are usually trans
planted after being kept in nurseries four or five years.
The trees which I saw on the rubber estates of Ceylon
were usually planted in geometrical lines, leaving enough
room for the branches, and giving the tappers and collec
tors a regular beat to follow, so that none might be over
looked. Other trees and shrubs, whose leaves are good
fertilizers, are scattered amongst them. The incisions
for tapping are cut around the tree like a spiral stairway,
a new ring being usually added each year. A little spout
and drip pan is attached for every ring or two, and the
coolies go through every few days to gather what gum
has collected and clear out the ducts. The sticky juice,
when dried over a fire, becomes blackened by smoke, but
when dried in the sun is light colored. Molds of clay and
paddles are employed for this purpose. The coagulated
mass is pressed into cakes by hand, and rolled out into a
sheet on greased metal planes with a wooden roller. In
order to more thoroughly purify the caoutchouc, it is
diluted with four times its weight of water and left to
stand for twenty-four hours. The caoutchouc then sep-

two] RUBBER PLANTING 377
arates itself, and rises to the surface like cream. This is
removed, diffused through a fresh quantity of water, and
again left to rise to the surface. By repeating the opera
tion till the wash water is perfectly limpid, the caoutchouc
may be obtained practically pure. It has then to be
spread on a, plate of unglazed earthenware (which ab
sorbs the water) and afterwards pressed into the pan
cake-like form of commerce. The crude rubber presents
different color and structure according to the method and
care employed in its preparation. Rubber growing is
still in its infancy in Ceylon, but all the planters seem
most optimistic, as the cost of producing is low, the out
put regular, and the market an ever-increasing one, espe
cially at the rate at which automobilists of today wear out
their tires.

APPENDIX B
THE BARUBOEDOER29
Once upon a time there was a smooth, green hill that
rose in perfect proportions from a tiny plateau on an
other larger hill, which, in turn, lifted gently from a sea
of waving palm-fronds and billows of Kanari foliage.
All this was a hundred years ago in the Dutch colony
of Java ; then the Dutch colony became English for a time,
not a long time, but long enough to enable Sir Stamford
Raffles and his men, who were prying about with un-Teu-
tonic haste and energy, to scratch a bit of earth from the
sides of this perfect green hill and reveal, to the wonder
of all men, a mighty ancient temple of the Buddha; the
most perfect monument that Buddhistic art has given to
the world.
There are ruins that cover more ground, and the great
Khuner monument in Cambodia, the Angkor Vhat, is
more imposing from a distance, but in its purity and unity
of design, in its wealth of detail and the finished execution
of its miles of sculpture, Baruboedoer stands alone in all
the world.
Fifty years and more of research and comparative
study of the temple have established the fact that it was
built about the tenth century of the Christian era, and
completed just before Buddhism, the religion of the in
tellect and peace was stamped out by Mohammedan con
querors, who preached a religion of blood and war, and
all the fiercer passions. It was the final production of
the Hindu civilization, which was higher and wealthier
29 This beautiful description of the Baruboedoer was written by Gilbert
Little Stark.

Baruboedoer -" The final production of Hindu civilization"

THE BARUBOEDOER 381
than any civilization that the island has since seen ; and,
after its fall, the temple silted over slowly, or, some say,
was covered by the faithful for protection, and even the
natives in the village at the foot of the hill forgot that the
Baruboedoer had ever been anything other than a smooth
green mound.
The ruin stands in the centre of the old kingdom of
Mataram, now the protected Sultanate of Djokjokarta.
To reach it one rides for almost two days on the railroad
down the centre of the island, from Batavia, the capital,
to the city of Djokjokarta. From there the pleasantest
way to accomplish the remaining sixteen miles is by a car
riage, drawn by four Java ponies, who race along the well
shaded roads, biting at each other and giving, now and
then, a tentative kick in the direction of the foot-boy, who
cracks his whip as he runs beside them.
For three hours you drive between rows of fine old
trees, through villages of mat-houses, through native
markets (passars), bright with fruit and flowers and gay
colors, with glimpses of broad padi-fields and green hills
cultivated to the top, and finally you skirt the base of the
hill you have come to find, and a last dash of your ponies,
shouted at and cracked at by your coachman and foot-boy,
lands you on the tiny plateau at the door of a comfortable
rest-house, within a lame bird's flutter of the Baruboe
doer, the House of many Buddhas.
The first sight of the Baruboedoer is disappointing ; but
it is with all things as it is with friends, the best and
greatest are those that reserve hidden beauties for a clos
er acquaintance. This ruin first presents itself as a
heavy mass, a chaos of cold stone, streaked with gray and
black. Some one has called it the photograph of a build
ing, and a wag likened it to an old stove in which the fire
has long since died; which latter description may seem
funny to some people, but is not true.
Let the newly-arrived traveler crack all his jokes and
talk about his stoves and photographs and tell the old

382 APPENDIX B [Vol.
Mynheer, who luckily does not understand English, how
much bigger buildings he has seen at home, and then let
him sit himself down in a comfortable chair in the rest-
house portico - and look. Let him look lazily through the
sleepy haze of the early afternoon heat, and through the
shifting veil of rain that follows, and he will see this
chaos of broken stones resolve itself into a massive tem
ple rising terrace upon terrace and gallery above gallery
to the giant dagoba that crowns it all. He will see the
jagged spires and cones that break the sky line range
themselves into orderly rows, and he will see long tiers
of Buddhas smiling in their temple niches.
On the day of our arrival the rain lasted far into the
evening, and after dark we sat looking out where the ruin
had been. Now and again the lightning would flash it in
lines of fire, perfectly restored, on the dark background ;
a striking contrast of light and shade, dark galleries and
arches, wide-mouthed monsters and Buddhas deep in med
itation, that no storm could disturb. A rose-colored pal
ace rising, complete in all details, out of the night, only
to fade before the eye could grasp it.
The base of the pyramid is thirty-six-sided, that is, a
square with two rectangular projections on each face.
The first terrace, as the ruin now stands, is a broad open
platform about ten feet above the ground. The inner
wall of the terrace, however, rises above the level of the
second gallery and forms a parapet for it, twice higher
than a man's head; the inner walls of the second, third,
fourth, and fifth terraces, in like manner, rise to form a
parapet for the terrace above them. The sixth terrace
forms the top of the square pyramid and has only a para
pet, no inner wall; from it rise three circular terraces
bearing seventy-two dagobas of stone-lattice-work, each
one over five feet high. In the center of the topmost
circle rises the great single dagoba of solid stone, a closed
bell thirty feet high. In the center a straight stairway,

two] THE BARUBOEDOER 383
guarded by lions and monsters, leads through ornamental
gateways to the summit of the central dagoba.
Nine terraces, then, there are in all. The first, an open
platform; the next four, narrow canons with walls of
sculptured stone open only to the sky; the sixth, hidden
from the world by a high parapet and open only to the
zenith; the seventh, eighth, and ninth, circular in form
and open on all sides ; and above all the great closed da
goba, the secret, sacred place.
The mornings in Java are always the pleasantest part
of the day, and early in the morning we climbed the ruin
for the first time, up the damp stone stairs to the tipmost
top, one hundred and twenty feet above the hill. At our
feet lay masses of foliage and acres of close-huddled
cocoanut-palms, sending forth glittering lances of white
light from their hard, polished leaves ; flooded padi-fields
mirrored the lines of spindle- stemmed palm trees that
march along their boundaries, and the broad valley-floor
was chequered with every shade of green by the young
rice, the growing rice, and the yellowed crop of ripened
grain, which flourish side by side in this eternal summer.
Hill ranges rose in a circle about the level basin, and be
hind them towered the blue cones of nine volcanoes ; So-
embing, symmetrical as Fuji, Merapi, with a wisp of cloud
trailing from its crater, and Merababoe, each rising per
fect and alone, a thousand feet above us. The morning
sounds of the village drifted up through the trees, roost
ers' crowing and children's laughter, and a great flood of
light poured over the eastern hills. All of the temple
Buddhas had their backs to us and their faces to the glory
of the morning. This was the three hundredth and sixty-
thousandth odd morning since first they had looked out
over the valley, yet a million mornings are as a flash of
time to the dwellers in the House of many Buddhas, for
here is Nirvana, which is Everlasting Rest.
There is a great work of restoration going on here at
present, under the enthusiastic direction of Captain Erb.

384 APPENDIX B [Vol.
Fragments are carefully studied and replaced in their
original positions; the old drainage system is being re
paired, and weak spots rebuilt with the old material.
Some years ago it was discovered that what is now the
first terrace is not part of the original design, and when
a portion of this stone platform was removed, a series
of one hundred and sixty beautiful sculptures around the
real base was revealed in a perfect state of preservation.
Some of these sculptures were unfinished, which proved
the fact, until then only a theory, that all of the carving
on this remarkable temple was made after the structure
was completed. It is supposed that, while the artists
were still at work on the base, they discovered that the
foundations were insufficient for so great a mass ; so they
carefully packed the finished bas-reliefs with earth, and
added the stone platform, which is now the first terrace.
To leave these reliefs exposed would have endangered
the life of the structure, so they were carefully photo
graphed and re-buried beneath tons of stone. They por
tray scenes of the common life of the times, hunting, love-
making, dancing, with a few torments of hell thrown in,
to give the series a religious flavor; but no connected
meaning has as yet been discovered in them.
The inner wall of the first terrace has a high sloping
base of ornamental curves ; above this runs a single line
of bas-reliefs ; and above the bas-reliefs is a tier of arched
niches, little open temples, flanked and surmounted by
solid stone dagobas, and in each niche sits a life-sized
Buddha, and the back of this Buddha-tier forms the para
pet of the gallery above. The outer and inner walls of
each successive gallery are covered with a double row of
bas-reliefs, and each inner wall is surmounted by a tier
of arches like that on the wall of the first terrace, so that
five rows of Buddhas on each side rise, one above the
other's head; four hundred and thirty-two images of the
Lord in all.
On the three open terraces above, which bear the dago-

two]  THE BARUBOEDOER  385
bas of stone lattice-work, are seventy-two more Buddha
images, screened off from the world, but open to the four
winds of heaven; and lastly, in the great closed dagoba
above all, walled in by twenty feet of solid stone, was
found a solitary Buddha, of the same size and posture as
the others, but unfinished, although the surrounding da
goba was perfectly complete.
There have been more or less theories advanced about
this unfinished Buddha, from the most complicated and
hair-splitting deductions to the absurdly simple one that
perhaps the builders thought it useless to finish a figure
that was never intended to be seen. There are as many
theories about the other Buddhas, general opinion decid
ing that they are the five Dhyani Buddhas, of the Mahay-
ana or Northern Buddhist church; the saviors of three
long vanished worlds, this present world, and a fifth
world still to come ; and that the unfinished figure is Adi-
Buddha-the Ur-Buddha or Father Buddha, from whom
the Dhyani Buddhas all came, and into whom they will
all return.
But this theory finds contradiction in many internal
evidences in the temple, and the simplest and most rea
sonable one seems to me to be that of Dr. Groneman. He
divides the Buddhas into three groups: (1) those of the
open-arch temples; (2) those of the stone-latticed dago
bas; and (3) the unfinished Buddha of the great dagoba.
The Buddhas of group one, who ornament the first four
tiers, differ slightly in the position of the hands, accord
ing to the point of the compass that they face. The
Buddhas of the fifth tier, who look out upon the zenith,
are all identical, but differ in the position of their hands
from all those of the tiers below. Dr. Groneman believes
that all of these figures are of the same Buddha, Amitab-
ha, the Saviour of this world, known to us as Gautama
or Sakya-Muni, and that the five positions of the hands
show his dominion over the four quarters of the globe
and the sky above, to typify which he took five steps in

386 APPENDIX B [Vol.
each direction named, just after he sprang from Maya's
side in the grove Lumbini.
The figures of the lattice-work dagobas are images of
the same Buddha, but show him removed from this world
and its affairs, in a state of heavenly meditation. These
Buddhas show a sixth position of the hands.
The final Buddha of group three is still the same Gau
tama, in a state of pari-Nirvana perfection, infinite non
existence, the goal of life. If the figure is intended to
portray this exalted state of being or non-being, it is no
wonder that the artist felt his limitations and the pro
fanity of any conception he could conjure up, and left
the work incomplete.
The great glory of the Baruboedoer, however, is its
bas-reliefs, which cover every available surface of the
mighty pile -over two thousand separate groups, of a
perfection of finish that makes the art of Ceylon's buried
cities look like the work of children. Since Mrs. Carrie
Nation informed the world that the saloons of a certain
section of our noble country, if placed side by side, would
reach from New York to Chicago, the formation of ficti
tious lines has been a popular form of giving an idea of
great numbers of any object. An imaginary line has
been formed of these carefully executed bas-reliefs, and
we are assured that it would stretch for three miles !
There is plenty to interest even the amateur for days
in the endless picture galleries of the five stone valleys
in the temple's sides, as I found after three days' experi
ence ; and after he has once seen the outlook from the top
platform, he will never think of leaving the ruin after a
morning spent there, without climbing up for another
glimpse of the blue circle of volcanoes, gathering their
clouds about them, and the smiling valley-floor beneath.
Truly, I think that this view is one of the world's fairest.
Many of the groups are interesting in themselves, without
the least understanding of their real meaning. There are
some that are funny : a monkey teasing a bull, and an ele-

two] THE BARUBOEDOER 387
phant imitating a dancing-girl ; and there are plenty that
are beautiful, according to the same rules that Greek Art
is judged by. You will find purity of outline, exquisite
modeling, free natural poses, and graceful proportions.
Jeweled princesses among their ladies, lovers reclining
beneath palms, wise men talking to their disciples in the
shade of the sacred bo-tree, gorgeous pageants with ele
phants and chariots, sword-bearers and dancing girls, fol
low each other up and down the passages ; and when you
see them so full of life and beauty, it is hard to realize
that not only the men that fashioned them, but the civil
ization they portray, has passed away as though it had
never been.
Interesting as single groups may be, as simple works
of art, there is a deeper interest in reading through whole
series a connected story, and learning what they meant
to the pilgrim of a thousand years ago. Here you will
find all the fabled former lives of Buddha, before he was
Gautama. How the Lord was once a turtle, and, perceiving a ship
about to sink, surrounded by hungry sharks, saved the
passengers upon his back, carried them to a desert island,
and there offered them his own body for food.
How the Lord was once the king of a tribe of monkeys
that lived in a great fig tree. The tribe was attacked,
and there was no escape except across a deep cleft, which
none but the Lord could jump. He reaches the mountain
side safely and finds there a long bamboo ; out of this and
his own back he forms a bridge across which the monkeys
all escape. But the Lord is faint from loss of blood, be
ing badly torn by the monkeys' feet, and falls into the
hands of his enemies, the hunters. They have watched
the scene with great astonishment and nurse him tender
ly, and to their questions he replies that it is a prince's
duty to serve, and not be served by his subjects.
Best of all, however, is the series on the inner wall of
the second terrace -the series that tells the tale of Bud-

388 APPENDIX B [Vol.
dha's life, from birth to death. Around the whole ter
race runs the story of his sufferings as the Saviour of the
world, and his achievements at the end. Yon see his
miraculous birth, the adoration of the wise men, the trial
of the bow, the first sight of the sufferings of the world,
as he rides past the beggar by the city gate. Then comes
his resolve to give his life to mankind; the long discus
sion with the disappointed king, his father, which lasts so
far into the night that all the guards about the palace fall
asleep ; the parting from his wives ; and his escape on the
magic sun horse, in spite of locked gates and armed
guards. Many of the incidents next portrayed resemble
incidents in the life of Christ, although Buddha lived four
hundred years b.c, and incidents in the life of the Hindu
Vishnu as well. He is seen seated on a lotus cushion in
structing the Brahman teachers, although he is but a
youth. He goes into the wilderness to fast and meditate,
and then he is tempted of the devil "with the aid of his
daughters the Rosy Morning Mists." He is followed by
disciples, who leave their homes and the religion of their
fathers for him, and finally he becomes a wise, loved
teacher, dying in the midst of friends. His life lacks only
the crowning glory of the Cross to make it a close counter
part of our own highest ideal.
There is almost nothing to detract from one's romantic
enjoyment of the Baruboedoer. It stands in the open
country in the midst of farm-life which is much the same
today as it was when the temple was built ; there are no
guides about, no curio-shops, no tickets to buy; no fees
to gate-keepers, and you are free to wander over the
whole pile at will, at any hour of the day or night. Of
course there are many broken arches and parapets, some
of the reliefs are cracked and broken, the floors sag, and
some of the Buddhas are headless or armless, and some
have vanished altogether ; but in studying the perfection
that remains, you notice only the ruined condition in a

two] THE BARUBOEDOER 389
subconscious feeling of awe and reverence and mighty
age. It must have been an epoch in the life of every devout
pilgrim to climb this hill and walk past the carved groups,
every one of which spoke to him a living truth. And
when, saddened by the sufferings of his Lord's life, he
turned away wondering " To what end; to what end? "
whichever way he turned his eyes, there was one of the
five hundred Master Images to answer him with its eter
nal smile : ' ' Peace, Rest, Peace ! " So that, finally, when
he emerged on the upper platforms, among the Heavenly
Buddhas, with the glorious view of the world before them,
and the Unseen Presence of the closed dagoba, close at
hand, he must have been in just the frame of mind to re
ceive all that was best of this great teacher's cult.
For it is a great cult, and Buddha was a very great
teacher. One cannot spend even one thoughtful hour on
the ruins, without feeling that this slender-waisted, smil
ing man, who sits cross-legged on a lotus flower, is no
mere stone conventionality, but a living force today ; for
he taught to the east the same principles of Love and
Peace and Tolerance that Christ taught us in the west,
and those who believe in him today are more in numbers
than the followers of any other religion on earth.
One day, while I was on the spot, there came a party
of tourists to the Baruboedoer, rejoicing in the fact that
they were doing the polite unusual. They sprang from
their carriage, with " Oh, there it is ! " and were off at a
dash. They climbed the ruin as though it were a moun
tain and eternal salvation awaited the first to reach the
top. They had left Djokja after breakfast, had done
another ruin on the way out, and were back to Djokja in
time for tiffin ; a thirty-four mile drive, with a couple of
old temples on the side. Off they drove, happy that they
had added one more object to the list of things, on which
they could now discourse exhaustively and finally, " from
personal experience, my dear ! " for the rest of their lives.

390 APPENDIX B

The old Mynheer shook his head with a knowing smile
as they whirled away, and " Pouf ! " he said with a shrug,
as he clapped to the ledger in which they had just in
scribed their names. The old Mynheer can talk no Eng
lish, but his remarks are always brief and to the point.
' ' Pouf ! ' ' How the dust flew as he banged the ledger
covers together!
On the last night there was a moon, and under it the
ruin loomed mightier than ever against the sky. Not a
dead relic, but a living symbol; and now, after having
seen them, there is always about the ruin the presence of
the kings and princes, warriors, maidens, the spreading
trees, the tangled flowers, the wise elephants and forest
creatures that live in its long silent halls. Like Keats 's
sculptured urn, they * ' tease us out of thought as doth
eternity. ' '
Somewhere, some one was playing the gamelan, and an
other was singing an endless, plaintive song. Perhaps it
was the village-singer, rehearsing the past glories of the
Sultans to a quiet audience beneath the palms at the hill's
foot, behind the ruin, and perhaps -who knows -it was
the music of the Rosy Morning Mists in the second gal
lery, who have been tempting Buddha with their beauty
and their songs for the last thousand years.

APPENDIX C
Form of letter sent to Governor-general Smith, Honor
able Cameron Forbes, and Honorable Benito Legardo, of
the Philippine Commission. Batavia, December 6, 1907.
Honorable W. Cameron Forbes, Philippine Commission.
Dear Sir : As you will see by the enclosed letter, I ex
pected to spend a month or so in the Philippines this fall,
where I had hoped to be able to learn at first hand some
thing of what our problems have been there, and of how
they have been and are being met. A severe attack of
malarial fever, which I picked up in Formosa, however,
detained me three weeks or so in Hong Kong, and as my
time is limited and pretty well mapped out, the delay
has cost me the Philippines. This loss has disappointed
me keenly, as the opportunity of being in this part of
the world, free to pursue whatever investigations fancy
and interest dictate, will probably never come to me
again; the more so too, since I feel quite strongly that
every American citizen should have a thorough knowl
edge and an intelligent interest in our far eastern pos
session. Shielding the strangeness and magnitude of my
request, therefore, behind this plea, I am going to ask
you to help me in my pursuit of this information which
I shall always regret not having been able to obtain
through personal touch and acquaintance. I hope you
will be able to give me specific answers to the following
questions, but I also wish them to be suggestive of the
sort of information I am after, since my ignorance of
local affairs has naturally limited the list, which I hope

392 APPENDIX C [Vol.
your complete knowledge may considerably amplify.
There are undoubtedly many important matters about
which I have asked nothing, and any light upon these will
be most appreciated. Also, should you have at hand any
printed matter relating to the Philippines, magazine arti
cles, reports, pamphlets, etc., which you could perhaps
spare me, or if you could refer me to something of the
sort, I should sincerely appreciate it.
What powers are vested in the new Parliament, what
are still held by the Commission, and what by the Gov
ernor-general? Of what does the judiciary consist?
What, if any, changes in policy or administration have
already been approved by congress, or are pretty cer
tain to be so, and are there any additional changes some
of you in the Philippines are advocating, but with which
Congress is not in sympathy?
Do you consider the present form of government, or
what it will naturally develop into, the best, and if not
what form are you personally in favor of? For instance :
what do you think would be the result for us and for the
Filipinos had we set up something analogous in adminis
tration and purpose to the British Crown Colony, and
added a colonial secretary to the President's cabinet?
Granted that education, travel, etc., have developed
some very clever, intelligent and perhaps able men, but in
your opinion can the racial and climatic characteristics
of the Filipino ever be sufficiently overcome as to make
them capable of a durable self-government?
How many troops, police, and scouts have we now in
the archipelago, and how many of these are necessary?
Have the civil service examinations, or those of the
Philippines, if they are distinct, been raised any during
the past three years, and if so, what are the new require
ments ?
Do you believe the Philippines would be a strategically
weak point, should we become involved in any struggle

two] LETTER TO W. CAMERON FORBES 393
on the Pacific, by taking us far from our base to defend
them, or do you consider that they may be made a defense
and a help to any necessary operations of our fleet in
far eastern waters?
Will the Philippines ever be worth to us what they
have cost us ?
What is your opinion regarding the Philippine tariff,
and is there any likelihood of its being largely decreased
upon such important items as hemp, tobacco, and sugar?
What per cent of the revenue is spent in the Philippines
themselves, and what are the principal items of expense?
How many miles of good road have been built through
out the islands, and how much more is in process of con
struction? The same of railroads. What other public
and sanitary works are now in progress? What is the
state of the water supply, drainage conditions, etc. ?
How many teachers are now in the island, native and
American, and what is the per cent of literacy?
What is the per cent of production per capita?
Has the amount of American capital invested in the
Philippines increased or fallen off during the last three
years ?
What is the value of exports and imports and their
principal items, for 1906 and 1907, so far as known?
What are the chances for Chinese emigration, at least
in some form (contract labor for a specified work and
time, for instance) being permitted, and how is it gener
ally regarded in the islands ?
Have there been any changes in the form of the govern
ment of the municipalities during the last three years,
and if so, what?
Is the control of local public works in the hands of these
municipalities, or is it centralized?
Thanking you in advance for the trouble I shall be put
ting you to, I am, yours very respectfully,
Amasa Stone Mather.

APPENDIX D
Department of Commerce and Police, Manila,
January 8, 1908.
Amasa Stone Mather, Esq., Bombay, India.
Sir : I have received your letter of December sixth and
an inclosed letter of introduction from Miss Boardman, a
lady whom I hold in the highest esteem.
I hope that, in the future, the Philippines will be able to
attract all Americans going around the world as it is an
interesting problem, especially to Americans. I find most
of your questions easy to answer and will take them up
in order.
1. The powers of the legislature are those given by Act
of Congress approved July 1, 1902, with some slight modi
fications contained in the so-called Cooper Bill, approved
by Act of Congress, February 6, 1905. These bills ex
cluded all power over foreign relations and such matters
as currency, customs, immigration, added certain other
limitations which will be found set forth in the bills, but
included in the powers granted to the local government,
the general one of taxation and, within the limits pre
scribed, the making of all local laws. The Commission
is now the upper house, or Senate, for the Islands, in so
far as its legislative work is concerned, though some of
the commissioners, beside their legislative work, have
executive duties. The governor-general, as executive,
holds exactly the same power as he did before the Assem
bly was convened. As member of the Commission, how
ever, his power is now limited to presiding over one of
two chambers instead of presiding over the sole legislative
body. The two chambers now extant have complete con-

LETTER FROM W. CAMERON FORBES 395
trol with all the powers that the Commission held before.
There is a provision, however, that in order to prevent
the wheels of government being stopped by failure to
agree upon appropriations, if the two houses of the legis
lature fail to agree, the appropriation bill passed for the
preceding year shall be deemed to have held over and
shall remain in effect as a new appropriation. Also, the
government of the wild tribes and of the Moro country to
the south, is still held by the Commission, without partici
pation by the Assembly.
2. The judiciary consists of the Supreme Court, of whom
four are Americans and three Filipinos, the Chief Justice
being a Filipino, about fifteen judges of the courts of First
Instance, who are fairly equally divided between Ameri
cans and Filipinos, and have districts, holding court in
the different provinces at stated periods, and there are
justices of the peace for minor offences, who are appointed
by the governor-general, with the approval of the Com
mission, upon recommendation of the judge of the court
of First Instance. These justices of the peace are prac
tically all Filipinos, except in the provinces inhabited by
non-Christian or savage peoples, where the local govern
ors and the justices of the peace are usually Americans.
3. Congress has given the Philippine government a
fairly liberal hand and has not made many embarrassing
restrictions. The only changes of great importance which
are persistently advocated by the officers of the Philippine
government here are more liberality in the land laws to
encourage corporate development of industries which
need corporations for their proper management, such as
copper mines, lumber, sugar, etc., liberalization of the
mining laws, which are now onerous and have tended to
discourage capital, and free trade between the United
States and the Philippine Islands. The latter, I think,
would be satisfactory, both to the United States and to the
Philippine Islands; but there is a small group of inter
ested people engaged in the sugar and tobacco business in

396 APPENDIX D [Vol.
the United States who have been able heretofore to pre
vent the passage of the necessary legislation in Congress.
I do not believe that it is because Congress is not in
sympathy with it, as the vote in favor of the bill in the
house was an almost overwhelming one and the matter
has never come before the Senate, having been killed in a
small committee. There are other defects in the customs
laws, and we want a naturalization law.
In matters of general policy there is very little, at
present, about which we differ. I know of no general
change which has taken place in the policy outlined by
President McKinley, which has been adhered to by Pres
ident Roosevelt, and which Secretary Taft has crystalized
into an organization, with laws, precedents, etc., which
could never have been done had there been any funda
mental change taking place.
4. The present form of government I believe to be a
very wise one. I see no advantage to the Philippines at
the present time in setting up anything analogous to a
crown colony or to have anything different from what
they have. They have, as you will have seen from reading
the above, an ample voice in their own affairs, and later,
you will see that the best way to do is to keep on just as we
are and to make such changes from time to time as cir
cumstances indicate to be necessary.
I do not think the time is ripe for a colonial secretary
in the present cabinet. The grouping of the administra
tion of dependencies under one bureau or one department
would certainly be an advantage. Sometime in the future,
if this feature of our administration increases in anything
like the proportion it has in the last ten years, it is possi
ble it will merit a secretary for the colonies, but at the
present time the word ' ' colony" is hateful to the American
people and such a move would not probably be well re
ceived. We avoid the use of the word "colony" wholly
in dealing with the Filipinos. "Dependency" describes
the situation much better. The Bureau in Washington is

two] LETTER FROM W. CAMERON FORBES 397
known as the Bureau of Insular Affairs, and the laws of
Congress speak quite frequently of "Insular posses
sions." My studies incline me to the belief that the American
and English systems of colonization differ essentially, in
that the Americans exercise much more strongly the devel
opment of the individual, undertaking more education and
bigger opportunity for the laboring man to better himself,
and in my belief the measure of our success can be indi
cated by the height of the raise of wages. The English
men tend more toward the material development of the
country, and the Englishmen here seem to think we have
injured the situation very greatly by increasing the rates
of wages.
It is very possible, however, that if we continue the suc
cess which we are experiencing in the administration of the
Filipinos, the English may be forced to follow suit, a thing
they will not relish. As I remember it, England began
by showing us how not to manage a colony and it may be
that as the wheel of time grinds on, we shall turn around
and show them how to manage one.
5. I do not care to prognosticate as to whether the
Filipino can establish a durable form of government or
not, without strong central control from some more power
ful nation. The Filipino has surprised his most ardent
supporters among the intelligent and thinking Americans
here in the able way in which he has handled those duties
which have been intrusted to him up to date. They make
excellent lawyers and judges, mechanics and clerks. The
attorney-general for the Philippine Islands is a Filipino.
The Philippine Assembly since its convocation has been
conducted with admirable fairness and ability. It will
compare favorably, for the tone of its deliberations, order
liness, and results up to date with other deliberative
bodies. I think, however, that the only proper way to
carry on this work is to do what we have been doing, to
give supervised autonomy to the municipalities and use

398 APPENDIX D [Vol.
our supervision to make sure that they are well governed,
to give supervised autonomy to the provinces, which have
one American out of the three which compose the provin
cial board, he being the treasurer, and to give them a
continually greater participation in the central govern
ment, taking the steps tentatively so that false steps may
be withdrawn ; but never giving up the effort to trust and
confirm the influence of the Filipino in his own affairs.
They will thus have a daily increasing measure of self
government, with sufficient central control exercised judi
ciously to be certain that it is not being abused. The de
gree of autonomy which they will have later can be rea
sonably determined by a series of experiments now going
on and we can then decide whether they can have a gov
ernment as free from supervision as the United States of
Colombia, Venezuela, or a little closer, supervision like
that of Santo Domingo will take place, or, coming still
closer, Cuba and Panama, down to actual annexation like
Porto Rico and Alaska, or still more intimate, a territorial
arrangement like New Mexico. I consider it would be the
height of folly now to say what we shall decide to do when
the time for decision comes.
6. The American troops here run between ten thousand
and twelve thousand men, stationed in a few large posts.
They are conducting themselves as they do in other large
army posts in the United States and have nothing to do
with the civil administration and practically nothing what
ever to do with the maintenance of order, except among
the Mohammedans in the south where the civil adminis
tration is combined partly with the military administra
tion. The scouts amount to an additional live thousand
native troops, paid by the United States and officered by
United States Army officers. If necessary, they can be
detailed to the Civil Government for use in the mainte
nance of order, though at present thereare none so detailed.
There are five thousand Constabulary, or Insular Police,
paid by the Insular Government, at an annual cost of about

two] LETTER FROM W. CAMERON FORBES 399
a million and a half dollars, who assist the governor-gen
eral in the maintenance of order, throughout the islands,
and the provincial governors or the municipal presidents
in their respective jurisdictions. They are called in for
infractions of Insular and provincial regulations or laws ;
but as a rule do not interfere with infractions of municipal
ordinances, punishment of which is handled by the munic
ipal police, numbering between three thousand and five
thousand. They cost an aggregate of five hundred thou
sand dollars a year and are in various conditions of disor
ganization, not to be trusted generally for serious disturb
ances but usually reasonably able to look after the work
of the local president in the maintenance of order and the
enforcement of municipal regulations of his town. The
municipal police are necessary but I believe in some dis
tricts they could get along with a less number. The Con
stabulary are cut to the lowest limit and the government
could very well use a force half as big again to extend or
der among the savage peoples and wild tribes, who inhabit
the interior of some of the Islands, notably, northern Lu
zon, Mindanao, Panay, and Samar. I do not believe it
advisable to have a considerable United States Army here.
I believe the scouts could be abolished without prejudice
to good order but it is a very proper addition to the United
States Army, none too big in itself, and a good, useful
institution, which, in case of war I believe would be found
to be a very convenient adjunct to the United States forces.
The men previously enlisted and who have gone out of
the service could be re-enlisted and a very considerable
army, properly trained, could be thus made available. I
believe that one-half of the troops now here would be all
that is necessary to maintain order and as a safeguard.
I see, however, no advantage in taking them away. The
army is ridiculously small now, considering the size and
importance of the United States, and given an army of a
certain size we might just as well use two out of every six
years service in tropical service. It is quite likely that

400 APPENDIX D [Vol.
our attention will be drawn more and more to the tropics,
and officers and men inured to tropical campaigning will
be necessary in the army. The health of the army is just
as good here as it is anywhere at home and the only cost
in keeping them here above keeping them at home is trans
portation to and from the United States.
7. The Philippine government has its own Bureau of
Civil Service. The requirements have not been changed
as far as I know, although there have been modifications in
different directions from time to time. The Philippine
civil service has a working arrangement with the civil
service at home by which transfers are made from one ser
vice to the other. I am not an expert on the matter and
can not tell which is the more severe but I understand ours
is in some ways more rigid than the other.
8. The Philippines would be strategically a weak point
if the Philippine people were hostile to us and we wanted
to retain them. They would be strategically strong were
the people friendly to us in case of trouble. All the evi
dence which I have received recently is to the effect that
the Philippine Islands will be friendly to us in case of
trouble. I am inclined to believe that they will be a source
of strength rather than of weakness.
Commercially, I have not the slightest doubt that they
are a real asset and will give us a vantage point with which
to extend our trade to the orient and increase the markets
for our own manufactures to a very marked degree. The
Philippine Islands grow all sorts of products which are
used in the United States but not grown there and the
United States has not possessions capable of growing
these tropical products in sufficient quantity to supply the
demand. The Philippine Islands will consume the man
ufactures of the United States and are doing so more and
more from day to day. Free trade between the countries
can not fail to be mutually beneficial. Articles which can
be grown in the Islands and which are not grown at home,
in general are, cacao, rubber, mahogany and fine hard-

two] LETTER FROM W. CAMERON FORBES 401
woods, hemp, copra, and all kinds of forest products, such
as gutta percha, varnish, gums, etc. From a naval point
of view, the Philippines will be hard to defend owing to
the very extended coast line, equal to eleven thousand
miles, but also for the same reason almost impossible to
conquer. Almost any naval force could capture certain
points but to capture the Islands would necessitate taking
over the reins of government and controlling the people.
For that reason, I say that the people who have the friend
ship of the Filipinos will find them a source of strength.
9. For the reasons set forth in my preceding answer I
believe the Philippines can very likely be worth much
more to the United States than they have cost us. It will
take some time but I believe the benefits will come in some
thing like the proportion of ten to one. The regeneration
of a people can not be done in a day. They are now in a
lamentable physical condition, owing to lack of hygienic
conditions, of good food, of good water, etc., and of the
means of obtaining them, and they have got to get the stim
ulus of desire or ambition to better themselves, which will
surely come with the education and the improved means
of communication which we are gradually installing here.
10. I am perfectly sure that the Philippine tariff will be
reduced. I do not think that a small selfish clique can
possibly withstand the demands of two peoples. How soon
that will come about I do not care to predict. I should not
be surprised to see it in the immediate future.
11. All of the revenue of the Philippine Islands is ex
pended in the Islands themselves, excepting in so far as it
may go to pay interest on bonds held abroad. The bonds,
however, are very small in amount, not more than ten
millions gold in all for insular account, which is about one
and a half dollars per head of national debt, which may
be held to be negligible. I recommend comparison with
other countries.
The principal items of expense out of some $9,000,000
of revenue are, roughly, as follows : executive, $250,000 ;

402 APPENDIX D [Vol.
justice and judiciary, $550,000; collection of revenue,
audit and treasury, $1,000,000 ; sanitation, $700,000 ; posts
and telegraphs, $650,000; constabulary, $1,500,000; nav
igation, commerce, lighthouses, etc., $600,000; education,
$1,750,000. There are shipping subsidies, guarantee of railroad
bonds, interest on bonds, and other things, which use up a
considerable amount of the balance, the difference being
mostly expended each year in public works, a large amount
of which is done each year out of the Insular Treasury
from current revenues.
12. I can not answer you as to the mileage of good roads
just yet, as road construction was left to the provinces
and municipalities, which have seriously failed in this
important item of administration. I shall know in a few
months exactly. The attention of the government bas re
cently been drawn to this matter and provision has been
made for a total rehabilitation of the system and the prac
tical establishment of a new one, which should result in the
construction of a complete system of roads throughout
the Archipelago in something like, say, ten years. The
amount of two million dollars has been raised by increased
local taxation, voted by the natives themselves in part and
in part by apportionment from the Insular Treasury for
road building and a system of road maintenance is being
established. This is in my department and at present is
the most important part of my work.
13. In regard to railroads, under Spanish domination
there were one hundred and twenty miles of railroad built.
Over two hundred miles have been built since the Ameri
cans came here and contracts have been arranged for the
construction of six hundred miles more, so that we shall
have a system aggregating nearly a thousand miles of
railroad within three or four years.
14. The port of Manila has been constructed by inclosing
and dredging the same, at an expense of something over
five million dollars. A large site for a new commercial

two] LETTER FROM W. CAMERON FORBES 403
town has been reclaimed in the water front and wharves
are now in process of construction there. Port works have
been completed in Iloilo and Cebu. Some work has been
done in dredging rivers. There has been considerable
bridge construction. Something over four million dollars
worth of sewer and water works are now approaching
completion in the city of Manila.
The inhabitants of the Islands have been vaccinated
and small pox, which previously caused great devastation,
has been wiped out; great advance has been made in the
cleaning up of cholera and plague, the plague having been
absolutely eliminated and cholera largely so. Great ad
vance has been made in dealing with other tropical dis
eases. Provision has been made for the segregation of
lepers and the stamping out of leprosy. Artesian wells
are being driven all over the Islands by the government,
to give good drinking water to the people, who have been
accustomed to use streams, which have not been properly
guarded against infection or pollution. In general, sani
tary conditions are bad, as the people eat with their fin
gers, drink water unboiled, and are afflicted to an alarming
extent with tuberculosis, intestinal parasites, including
amoebic dysentery and other diseases. Here a tremen
dous work has to be done and it must be done by the
natives, as we can not afford American doctors for seven
million people. We have, however, established a first
class medical school, which is being attended by an en
thusiastic gathering of young people in Manila.
Reinforced concrete constabulary barracks, school
houses, provincial buildings, jails, hospitals, etc., are in
process of construction. Four hundred thousand dollars
has recently been appropriated for a first class hospital
in the city of Manila. A summer capital has been select
ed and mapped out and a very expensive road, costing
two million dollars, has been built connecting it with the
lowlands, so that within one day's travel from Manila
the climate of the temperate zone can be reached, the

404 APPENDIX D [Vol.
average temperature not being much over sixty degrees,
Fahrenheit, for the year.
15. There are something over eight hundred American
school teachers in the Islands at the present time, and
6,141 Filipino teachers. The average literacy has been
stated to be about ten per cent. The people are very en
thusiastic about learning English. Something like five
hundred thousand attend the schools, about one-third of
the possible school population.
16. Owing to the conditions existing in the Philippine
Islands, the large proportion of country which is isolated
and from which no statistics are returned, the large num
ber of producers who produce only for their own needs,
the fact that most of the manufacturing is done in the
native homes, and the absence of a central statistical bu
reau, the answer to your question as to the per cent of
production per capita can at the best be only unsatisfac
torily approximate.
17. The amount of American capital invested in the
Philippine Islands is extremely small and is steadily in
creasing, particularly with the construction of the rail
roads. New enterprises are being formed and developed.
The most notable of those which have been established
here being the Manila Electric Railroad and Light Com
pany, the Atlantic, Gulf and Pacific Company, with their
shops, the Philippine Railway Company, constructing two
hundred and fifty miles of railroad, the Manila Railroad
Company, constructing and operating some seven hun
dred miles of railroad, the Philippines Products Company,
and others.
18. The reports of the Collector of Customs for the
fiscal years 1906 and 1907 show that the imports and ex
ports, divided into their principal items, were as follows :
1906. Total Imports, $25,811,093. Principal items, by
values : cotton goods, $6,642,329 ; rice, $4,375,500 ; iron and
steel, and manufactures of, $1,796,653; flour, $824,034;
illuminating oils, $358,317; opium, $440,464; paper and

two] LETTER FROM W. CAMERON FORBES 405
manufactures of, $410,083 ; distilled spirits, $199,525 ; malt
liquors, $225,482.
Total Exports, $32,671,401. Principal items, by values :
hemp, $19,446,769; sugar, $4,863,865; copra, $4,043,115;
tobacco, $2,389,890.
1907. Total Imports, $29,666,140. Principal items, by
values : cotton goods, $8,320,079 ; rice, $3,662,493 ; iron and
steel, and manufactures of, $2,544,992; flour, $889,174;
illuminating oils, $790,447; opium, $513,287; paper, and
manufactures of, $508,754 ; distilled spirits, $218,967 ; malt
liquors, $141,838.
Total Exports, $34,127,253. Principal items, by values :
hemp, $21,085,081; sugar, $3,934,460; copra, $4,053,193;
tobacco, $3,129,194.
19. I think the chances of Chinese immigation are nil.
The Chinaman, who comes here as a laborer, very soon
becomes a merchant, and does not give the Filipino a fair
deal. The morals of those of the laboring class who be
come merchants are very bad. They are wholly unscrup
ulous, adulterate all the goods they sell, evade the laws,
and are generally undesirable. The Filipino is a perfectly
good laborer himself and give him a chance and a physique
and he will develop himself and the country at the same
time. We do not need the Chinese, and the Filipinos, who
see wherein their own advantage lies, do not want them.
There are a few Americans, and others among the Euro
peans, who think the immigration of Chinese is the true
solution of the problem out here. I do not.
20. Changes in the form of municipal governments for
the last three years have been slight. Roughly speaking,
the suffrage is given to those who can read or write or have
a certain amount of property or who have served in the
government employ in certain offices. These voters elect
a president and council for their towns, which have certain
limited authority. They can impose certain taxes and
give certain municipal privileges. They are supposed to
maintain the roads in their jurisdiction, keep good order

406 APPENDIX D

and perform the local functions of government. Their
financial transactions are very rigidly audited by insular
authority, so that the money end of the thing is not free.
One important measure recently passed provides that no
more than a certain percentage of the receipts can be ex
pended on salaries, as it was found that a good many
municipalities found it convenient to spend all their re
ceipts for salaries and none for public works.
21. Certain small public works are done by the munici
palities, very often in the line of school building, as they
seem to be very enthusiastic about schools. The expendi
ture of local funds for public works is not centralized and
the district engineers in the employ of the Insular Govern
ment have only advisory functions as regards municipal
ities. They have, however, control over expenditures of
provincial funds for public works above a certain amount.
The provinces have recently been made autonomous. There
are some forty-five of them and they are very important.
Until recently, the provincial governments were composed
of three members; one native governor elected by the
municipal councils and two Americans appointed by the
governor-general, one of whom was the treasurer and the
other the district engineer. This was found to be too
expensive, particularly in provinces that did not have
money for public works, and the engineers were decreased
in number until the district engineer system was evolved,
which has one engineer for several provinces. Then the
division superintendent of schools was added on the pro
vincial board but this did not prove satisfactory and now
at the time of elections for delegates to the Assembly there
are also elections for provincial governors and third mem
bers of the board, the voters now directly electing the pro
vincial governor and the third member of the provincial
board. Very truly yours, W. Cameron Forbes.

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INDEX

Aaed wolf: shoots, II, 296; Tarle-
ton bags, 300
Accounts: with head man, II, 358
Africa: list of books on, II, 407-
408; hunting in, see hunting
Agra: writes from, I, 139, 151; Jes
samin* Tower, 153, II, 205; fort
at (illustration), I, 155; at, II,
204, 206; fortifications built by
Akbar, 205; Pearl Mosque, 205;
tomb of Akbar, 206; repairing
marble balustrade, 375
Ahmedabad: at, II, 216; why noted,
216; mosque, 216-219
Akbar: founder of the Mogul Em
pire in India, I, 113, 139, 146,
153 ; tomb of, 158 ; fictitious letter
from, 166; mentioned, II, 200;
historical account of, 204-205;
wanted heir, 205-206; value of,
206-209
Alva, Duke of: II, 349
Amant, Dr. — : I, 41
Amber: illustration, II, 213, 217;
ancient city of India, 215
Ament, Dr. — : missionary, II, 40
American Board Mission, Compound
of: ride to, II, 125
Amoy: city in China, I, 53; harbor
of (illustration), 345
Amoy Maru, S.8: II, 122, 138; din
ner on, 138
Amritaprabha, Queen: I, 358
Anam: part of former empire, II,
121
Angier, Mr. — : owner of Shang-hai
Times, I, 448-449
Angier, Mrs. — : wife of preceding,
I, 449

Angkor: ancient city of Siam, I,
359
Angkor Thom: ancient city of Cam
bodia, II, 121
"Angry Mob": II, 49
Antiquities, Javanese: exhibited at
Batavia, II, 188
Ants, maji amoto: attacked by, II,
344; white, eat through wood, 352,
footnote
An-tung: at, II, 13; journey from,
to Sokuko, 13-17
Anuradhpura: buried city of Ceylon,
I, 82, 213, II, 226; queen's bath
ing tank, 226 ; described, 226-230 ;
Moon Steps (illustration), 227;
general view of (illustration), 231
Arakan Pagoda: I, 89
Archeologist, Indian : quotation
from, I, 357
Ariman: Formosan savage, II, 149,
164
Ari San: illustration, II, 173
Arjamand Bannu: another name for
Mamtaz Mahal, I, 140; poem to
the memory of, I, 141-142
Army, U.S: in Philippines, II, 398,
399-400
Arnell, Mr. — : U.S. vice consul, II,
17
Arnold, Julian: U.S. consul to For
mosa, I, 48, 49, 52; receives letter
to, II, 119; call on, 142; invites to
join consular tour of exploration,
142; trip with, described, 142-184
Arnold, Mrs. Julian: wife of preced
ing, I, 52, II, 142, 144; carry,
146; savages carry, 148-149; stone
strikes shelf on which she is, 164;

416

INDEX

[Vol.

toasted at banquet, 180; goes on
trip, 142-184
Aryans: II, 141
Arsenal Gardens: visits, I, 397; of
Tokio (illustration), 399
Asama-yama: volcano, I, 30, 33;
ascent of, 339-341; illustration,
415
Asoka: great Buddhist King of In
dia, II, 225
Assam: part of former empire, II,
121
Atchabal: pleasure gardens of the
Maharajah, I, 187
Aveson, Dr. — : I, 453, II, 29
Ayuthia (ancient capital of Siam) :
sketch: I, 359-370; ruins of, 366;
illustration, 367; pyramid near,
369
Baboon: shoots, II, 306
Babus: II, 200, 201
Baby Tower: II, 135-136
Baker, Mr. — : vice consul, II, 123
Ball, viceroy's: in Calcutta, I, 115,
116
Ban, Namakama: tribe in Formosa,
II, 148
Bandits, Manchurian: II, 20
Bangkok: visits, I, 271: illustration,
275
Banteng: sees cow with young, I,
291 ; calf eaten by tiger, 292 ; sees,
292; puts up, 292; shoots, 297
Barber, Mr. — : dines with, I, 113;
Y.M.C.A. worker, 128
Barber, Mrs. — : wife of preceding,
I, 113
Bargaining : with Chinese merchants,
II, 134
Baruboedoer: ruins of temple in
Java, I, 72, 75, legend of, 76,
description of, 76-77, II, 378-390;
illustration, frontispiece, 379 ;
journey to, II, 381; beauty
grows on one, 382; general plan
of, 382-383; work of restoration,

383-384; real base of, 384; glory
of, 386-387; freedom of, 388;
ruins of, 388-389; tourists visit,
389
"Bat": story of, II, 53-54
Batavia: city of Java, I, 61; writes
from, 77, 283; at, II, 184, 194;
known as "Graveyard of Europe
ans," 184; appalling death rate
in, 184; business men of, live in
Weltevreden, 184; musicals, II,
187; clubs, 187-188; noted sights
of, 188; Museum, 188-189; writes
W. Cameron Forbes from, 391-
393
Batavian Society of Arts and Sci
ences, Museum of: described, II,
188-189
Bates, Roswell: I, 418
Bathing Ghats at Holy City of Ben
ares: illustration, I, 135
Baths: sulphur, I, 26
Battek work: mentioned, II, 185;
note on, 371-372; designs of, 371;
method of coloring, 372
Battery, etc: outfit for hunting, II,
353
Battlefield in Manchuria: pointed
out, 11,17; 24
Bazaar: merchants at Foochow turn
verandah into temporary, II, 134
Beach, Rev. Harland: I, 109, II, 27,
29
Bear: with two cubs taken alive, I,
123
Bedaya: dancing girl, II, 196
Bell: legend of, II, 37; monastery,
129-130; ship's, found on Mt.
Morrison, 163
Bells: temple, II, 105; purchases,
106
Bell Tower: legend of casting of
bell, II, 37-38
Benares: writes from, I, 134; bath
ing ghats at (illustration), 135;
described, 134-139 ; at, II, 203
Benediction : Buddhist, II, 130

two]

INDEX

417

Benki: Japanese Sampson, I, 430
Berger, Dr. — : II, 253, footnote
Bethel, Mr. — : editor of Korean
Daily News, I, 454
Bharata: S.S. of the British India
Line, I, 84
Birds, buffalo: II, 292, footnote
Black-buck: hunting the, I, 145-147
Bland, Mr. — : author, I, 41, II, 44
Boar: I, 231-232; first shot, found
dead, 241
Boardman, Miss Mable: mentioned,
I, 25, 57; presents letter from,
397; letter mentioned, II, 394
Boise, Mr. — : game warden in Cey
lon, I, 243
Bolton, Mr. — : Englishman, I, 139,
141, 212, 213, 214, 215
Bolton, Mrs. — i wife of preceding,
I, 139, 141, 212, 213, 214, 215
Bombay: writes from, I, 200, 306;
busy afternoon in, 307
Bonsar, Major — : member of hunt
ing party at Cooch Behar, I, 118,
121, 158
Boreel, Mr. — : I, 284
Bose, Capt. — : military doctor, I,
203, 207
Botanical Gardens of Buitenzorg: I,
67; of Peradeniya, II, 221-222
Bothe, Mr. — : forest agent, I, 243,
244
Bowring, Sir John: quotation from,
I, 366
Brady, Mr. — : II, 119
Brahmins: form of worship, 1, 134,
II, 203
Bridge: over Han River, II, 11-12;
of a Thousand Ages, 125; made
of saplings, 160
Brocket, Mr. — : converse with, II,
133
Brocket 's General Store : II, 123
Brooke, Capt. — : II, 265
Brown, Mr. — : lecturer in the Im
perial University, II, 49

Brown, Mr. — : aid-de-camp, II, 332
Browne, Mr. — : I, 118
Buddha: Baruboedoer - temple of,
II, 378; statues of, in Baruboe
doer, 384-385; groups of, 385-386;
fabled former lives of, 387-388;
teachings of, 389
Buddhism: II, 225
Buffalo: bull, threatens attack at
Cooch Behar, I, 127-128; water
(illustration), 225; bull, 227-228;
kills second, 228-229; shoots large,
236-237, II, 294; puts up good
fight, I, 320; water, dislikes for
eigners, II, 128 ; let go, 249 ; Tarl
ton kills, 284; looking for (illus
tration), 285; after, 287; Tarlton
shoots cow, 287; use as bait, 288-
289; birds, 292, footnote; ranks
of, 344, footnote
Buitenzorg: I, 62, 64; described, 67-
68
Burma, Upper and Lower: part of
former empire, II, 121; list of
books on, 408
Burmese belles: I, 90
Bushbuck: kills, II, 247; sees, 323;
Tarlton shoots female, 325; T.
shoots ram, 327, 337
Caieo: writes from, I, 325
Calcutta: writes from, I, 107, 108,
113, 116, 128, 132; Government
House; 111, 114; at, II, 198, 199
Cambodia: part of former empire,
II, 121
Campbell, Mr. — : missionary, I, 118
Caravansary: at Why-li-chien, II,
77; at Ching-ming-ee, 82; at a
cross-road, 88; illustration, 115
Cart-caravan: Mongolian, II, 102
Carts : lost in Mongolia, II, 100 ; Mr.
Sprague hunts for, 101; a clue,
102; tribesman seeks, 102, 105;
hear of, 107; found, 108
Casanave, M. — : I, 41, II, 119
Cat, cerval: see Cerval cat

418

INDEX

[Vol.

Cave- tiger: II, 122, and footnote
Cawnpore: storming of, II, 210; Me
morial Chapel, 210
Cerval cat: shoots, II, 330
Cesar: II, 374
Ceylon: population, 219; cities of,
219; Portuguese in, II, 219; Dutch
in, 219-220; Temple of the Tooth,
220; wise rule of England in,
222, 223 ; tea industry of, 230-233 ;
rubber trees of, 233; chocolate in
dustry of, 233; beauty of, 237;
rubber growing in, 377; list of
books on, 408; hunting in, see

Chalier, Herr — : German nobleman,
I, 112
Chalmers, Mr. — : British consul,
I, 52, II, 181
Chambers, Mr. — : mentioned, I, 20;
attempts to rescue Japanese pros
titute, 336; conversation with,
380; celebrate birthday of, 385
Chant: II, 167
Chanya River: crossing (illustra
tion), II, 259
Cheetah: hunt, II, 330 and footnote
China: mentioned I, 46, 48; house
keeping in, II, 52; early history
of, 63-64; Great Wall, 31, 63, 73-
74; illustration, 75; true wall, 94;
southern cities of, 125; list of
books on, 408-409
Chinese: ladies, II, 38-39; houses,
39; coolies, 39, 129; unsociable,
39; calamity, 111; honesty of,
113; dependable, 113; compared
with Japanese, 113-114; banking
system, 114; position of women,
114; children, 114; plowing, 117;
women, 117; comparison of north
ern and southern, 125; cities of
the south, 125-127; become Japan
ese citizens, 138; refuse to enter
interior of Formosa, 148 ; in Java,
186; immigration to P.I., 405
Ching-ming-ee : at, II, 78 ; trip from,

to Chuen-wha-fu, 83-84; money
lost at inn, returned, 113
Chinkara buck: I, 162
Chion-in Temple: I, 422
Chocolate industry: in Ceylon, II,
233
Chou dynasty: II, 62
Christians, Native: in Korea, I, 453
Christy, Dr. — : II, 29
Chu, Mr. — : II, 24
Chuen-wha-fu: at, II, 83; described,
84; trip from, to Kalgan, 87-89;
tiffin in, 112; early start from,
112
Chu-yung-kuan: gate of, II, 70; il
lustration, 71
Chuzenji: lake, I, 26, 404; illustra
tion, 405
Chuzenji: visits, I, 402
Clark, Alfred (author) : quotation
from, I, 240
Cleopatra: II, 374
Cloisonne1 manufacturing: note on,
II, 368-371; examples of, 368; il
lustration, 369; method of, 371
Club, Sports': stops at, II, 345
Cochinchina: part of former empire,
II, 121
Cochran, Mr. — : missionary, I, 108-
109
Cocoanut, green : as beverage, I, 221 ;
plantations in Ceylon, 233
Coffee: culture in Java, I, 351-352,
II, 192; blight attacks plants, 193
Colombo: capital of Ceylon, writes
from, I, 209, 210, 214, 246, 248,
251, 260, 304; at, II, 219, 222,
225, 230; pleasures of, 224-225
Colquhoun's The Mastery of the Pa
cific: quotation from, II, 139
Confucianism: II, 36
Confucius: teachings of, II, 127
Congress: attitude toward Philip
pines, II, 395-396
Conjurer, Hindoo: I, 138-139
Cooch Behar: mentioned, I, 115, 116,
117, 123, 133; writes from, 117;

two]

INDEX

419

camp at, 117 ; evening in camp of,
121 ; hunting in, 117-129 ; Mahara-
ni of, 134
Cook and Son, Thos: I, 306; clerk
of, 307
Cook, Miss: I, 450
Cook, Mr. — : II, 140
Coolies: Chinese, II, 39, 129; mode
of carrying, 129
Coronation Day: I, 308
Cowman, Mr. — : missionary, I, 392;
dines with, 393
Creavy, Mr. — : U.S. consul, I, 255
Cricket match: I, 132
Crocodiles: I, 231; shoots, II, 279
Culture system in Java: described,
II, 191; success of, 192; decline
of, 193
Curzon, Lord: I, 112
Dahe Bunga: maharajah, I, 110,
112
Dak Bungalow: I, 97; writes from,
141
Dampfer Goben (steamship) : writes
from, I, 263; companions on, 264;
gymnasium on, 264
Dance: Japanese, I, 402; Korean,
457; devil, part of Mongolian re
ligion, II, 106; Hindoo, 204
Daniels, Mr. — : member of hunting
party at Cooch Behar, I, 118, 121
Da Shoya: Mongolian, II, 100; stay
at encampment of, 100-108; sup
per with, 101; provides tent, 101;
tribesmen seek carts, 102, 105; en
campment of (illustration), 103;
tiffin with, 105; entertain, 108;
sheep and cattle of (illustration),
109 ; bid goodbye to, 110
Davidson, F.R.G.S., Mr. — : ex-con
sul to Formosa, author, I, 49;
mentioned, II, 141.
Dayin Maru, S.S: II, 181
Dearing, Mr. — : member of U.S.
legation, I, 41
Debauch, great: II, 178

De Crespigny, Capt. — : II, 349
Deer buck, hunting the: in Ceylon,
I, 223, 231
Deering, Mr. — : U.S. legation sec
retary, II, 44, 49
De la Condamine, M. — : introduced
rubber into Europe, II, 376
De Lesseps, M. — : statue of, I,
329
Delhi: writes from, I, 158; at, II,
209, 210
Deli (steamship) : writes from, I,
267, 271; fellow-passengers, 268-
271, 281
Denham- White, Captain — : I, 131,
132
Desert of Gobi: illustration, II, 97
Deutschenkreutzers : II, 30, 253,
footnote
Diabutsu of Kamakura: described,
I, 388-389
Diary: S.S. Shinana Maru, I, 371;
Tokio, 386, 387, 388, 391, 393, 397,
412; Nikko, 398; Chuzenji, 402;
Yumoto, 404, 407; Numata, 407;
Ikao, 409, 410; Karuizawa, 411;
Yokohama, 413; Myanoshita, 413;
Hakone, 414; Kioto, 418, 419, 421,
423, 426; Namadsu, 418; Kobe,
426; Inland Sea, 427; Myajima,
428, 429, 431; Shimoneseki, 432,
434; Seoul, 437, 440, 449, 454;
Phyong-yang, II, 11 ; An-tung, 13 ;
Sokuko, 18; Mukden, 20, 29;
Shan-hai-kuan, 30; Peking, 31, 32,
40, 44, 45, 49, 50, 119; Nankow,
56, 117; Why-li-chien, 69, 112;
Ching-ming-ee, 78; Chuen-wha-fu,
83; Kalgan, 87, 92; Shan-si-fu,
111; S.S. Loksang, 120; Foochow,
122, 128, 134; Batavia, 184, 194;
Djokjokarta, 189, 194; Singapore,
197; Calcutta, 198, 199; Benares,
203; Agra, 204, 206; Fatehpur
Sikri, 205; Delhi, 209, 210; Rawal
pindi, 211; Jeypore, 212; Ahmed
abad, 216; Colombo, 219, 222, 225,

420

INDEX

[Vol.

230 ; Mombasa, 237, 238, 345, 346,
349; on train to Nairobi, 241;
Nairobi, 241, 242, 243, 333, 334;
Kiu River, 244; Indirugo River,
244; Smith's Shamba, 245, 247;
Punda Malia, 246, 247; I 'thanga
River, 248, 249, 250; Fort Hall,
253; Sultan Wambugu's, 254;
Nyeri, 254, 330; Chanya River,
257; Tagesa River, 258; unknown
stream; 258, 261; in the woods,
261; Meru, 262, 265, 268, 312,
326; M'Gunga Lake, 267, 316,
320, 324, 325; Keenyaleela River,
269; Lekiundra River, 270, 272,
276, 303, 306; Guasa Nyro River,
277; base camp, 284, 287, 288,
290, 291, 292, 293, 296 299, 300,
313, 314, 315, 342, 343; small
stream, 307, 308, 327, 328, 329;
open veldt, 329; Fort Hall, 332;
Makindi River, 332; Tarlton 'a
bungalow, 333; Athi Plains, 334;
Athi River, 335; M'toto Andei,
336, 337, 338; near Mombasa, 341
Dick, Murray: tea-planter, I, 204
Dinner: Chinese, II, 56
Distances: incorrect estimate given
to, I, 56-57
Djokjokarta: city of Java, I, 70, 71,
72; Water-kastel (illustration),
73; at, 189, 194
Dodolc: Javanese form of respect, I,
349, II, 185
Dolls: at base of Baby Tower, II,
135-136
Doubleday: mythical soldier, I, 64,
65-66
Dramatic entertainment : Javanese,
II, 194-195
Dravidian Temple: illustration, I,
279
Duiker: shoots, II, 337
Dukerwich, Mr. — : II, 331
Dunlop-Smith, Lt.-col. — : military
secretary to Lord Minto, I, 106;

mentioned, 110, 111, 202; meets
in Siam, 272
Dunlop-Smith, Mrs. — : wife of pre
ceding, I, 272
Durbar: described, I, 113-114; men
tioned, 116
Durien: delicious, I, 283; masters
the, 299
Dutch: celebration of Santa Claus
Day in Java, I, 62-63 ; life led by,
in Java, II, 187; policy in Java,
189; compared with American pol
icy in Philippines, 189-190; com
pared with English policy in India,
190; result of, 193-194
East African Coast: unimportant
trade route, I, 326; trip along,
325-326
Eddy, G: Y.M.C.A. worker in south
ern India, I, 306
Egypt: I, 326
Ekka: I, 146
Eland: sight, II, 246; reports of,
306; sight herd, 307, 308; lose
bull, 307; shoots bull, 308-311; il
lustration, 309
Elephant: illustration, I, 87; at
work, 102; rides on, 121; in how-
dah, 121-122, 129; drives away
buffalo, 128; charges train, 281;
rogue, 217, 234, 237-240, 243; saw
in game preserve, 227; no trophy
of rogue, 319-320; trophies of Af
rican, 320; tries to block train,
360-361; go after, II, 267, 313;
find herd, 268; hear, 314; report
of, 316; see herd, 316, 319; see
three, 323; shoots, 325; tusks, 325
and footnote; Tarlton fails to get,
327; porters eat, 327-328
Elephant stockade: I, 365
Elliott, Lady Violet: I, 116
Elmorani of the Masai: illustration,
II, 301
Empress dowager of China: I, 42;
Grand Old Bird, 45

two]

INDEX

421

England: colonial rule, II, 200-201;
wise rule of, in Ceylon, 222, 223;
colonization methods, 397
Enoshima, Caves of: legend of, I,
390
Erbe, Capt. — : in charge of restor
ing the Baruboedoer, I, 82, II,
383
Ethelbert, King: II, 226
Examination Hall: ruins in Peking,
II, 35
Fabrik, Tea: I, 351
Fairyland: small village in Java, I,
299-300
Fallows, Capt. — : of Br. Indian
Army, II, 51
Fatehpur Sikri: writes from Dak
Bungalow near, I, 141; described,
142; Great Triumph Gate, 142-
145; temple near (illustration),
149; at, II, 205; became city,
206; tomb of Salim Chisti (illus
tration), 207
Fencing, Japanese: I, 384
Festival, Village: in Myajima, I,
429
Filipinos: physical condition of, II,
401, 403; schools for, 404
Fitz Gerald, Lady: I, 111
Flag (American) : to be placed on
Mt. Morrison, II, 180
Fletcher, Mr. — : U.S. legation secy.,
I, 41, II, 44
Flower-o-the-Moon, At the: (illustra
tion), I, 395
Foochow: third city of China, I, 48,
53; at, II, 122, 128, 134; tea
trade of, 122; described, 122-137;
narrow streets of, 134-135; Baby
Tower of, 135-136; College, 137;
three days' stay at, 140
Food Stuffs, etc: outfit for hunting,
II, 354-356
Forbes, Mr. — : II, 238, 345, 346
Forbes, W. Cameron: letter to, II,
391-393; letter from, 394-406

Forbidden City: II, 35; emperor
leaves, 38
Forest: of Formosa, II, 170, 172-
175, 176; of Africa, 261-262, foot
note; lost in, 262; glade in equa
torial (illustration), 263; bamboo
(illustration), 317
Formosa: isle, I, 47; work on, cited,
49; trip through, 51, 52; plan
trip to, II, 119; account of ascent
of Mount Morrison, II, 139-184;
"Beautiful Isle," 140; brief his
torical facts, 141; size, 141; port
towns of, 141-142; trade of, 142;
cultivated land, 145; savages of,
148-150; visit head-hunters' vil
lage, 155-159; forest in, 172, 175,
176 ; new policeman acts as guide,
177 ; reach Kagi, 179 ; summary of
trip, 181-184; failure of other ex
peditions, 182-183; indifference of
Chinese for such trips, 182-183;
success of trip due to, 183-184; list
of books on, 409
Fort: at Agra, II, 205
Fort Hall: writes from, I, 318
Fortifications: along Min River, II,
122
Fort William: in Calcutta, I, 112
Franklin, Capt. F. J: quotation
from, II, 343, footnote
Fugita Lumber Company: II, 142;
reach office of, 171; spend night
at branch of, 175; tiffin at branch
of, 176; end trip on trolley be
longing to, 179
Fuhkien Province: Japanese boast
future ownership of, II, 138
Fuhkien Province, Viceroy of: forti
fied Min River, II, 122 ; mentioned,
123 ; makes Foochow his capital,
134; should be given full power,
200
Funeral procession: II, 119; con
trasted with wedding, 119
Fung Shui: Chinese good omen, II,
61, 111; waiting for, 136

422

INDEX

[Vol.

Gaikwtjb (Gaekwar) of Baroda: I,
112; up-to-date ruler, II, 201-202
Game: in Ceylon, protected by Brit
ish, I, 244; in Java, not protected,
244; rank of, II, 344, footnote;
shot by Scott and Neilson, 346;
regulations, II, 358-360; list of,
364-365; see hunting
Game Reserve, Ceylon: in, I, 227
Ganges River: I, 137
Gautama: founder of Buddhism, II,
225
Gayley, Robert: Y.M.C.A. worker in
Peking, I, 108; II, 40
Gazelle: loses grant, II, 306; misses,
306, 330, 335; shoots thompson,
329; bags grant, 335
Gede: extinct volcano of Java, I,
77
Geishas: I, 24, 25; described, 388;
fun with, 425-426
Genghis Khan: I, 46; legend of, II,
95
Gerenuk: sights, II, 297; Tarleton
shoots, 299, 300; shoots ewe, 299;
shoots, 300
Ghats: burning, I, 112, 134; bath
ing, at Benares (illustration), 135
Giraffe: II, 246, 287
Goa (city in India) : described, I,
310
Gobi, Desert of: illustration, II, 97
Golden Mountain, The : pyramid near
Ayuthia, I, 369
Golden Pavilion and Temple: in Ki
oto, I, 419
Goodfellow, Capt. — : attempt to
climb Mt. Morrison, I, 51
Goteick Gorge: natural bridge cross
ing, I, 94
Goto, Mr. — : head of Fugita Lum
ber Company, II, 171
Gracey, Dr. — : II, 123; absence
from consulate, 123
Gracey, Mrs. — : wife of preceding,
II, 123
Graham, Mr. — : II, 241

Grain elevator (Port Arthur) : note
on, II, 367-368
Grant gazelle: see gazelle
Greek influence in India: I, 357-
358
Grenadiers: Indian, I, 114
Groneman, Dr. — : extract from
pamphlet written by, I, 75 ; theory
of Buddhas in Baruboedoer, II,
385-386
Grouse, T. S: quotation from, I, 358
Guasa Nyro: stream, II, 279
Gueonroka: police station in For
mosa, II, 147
Gulf of Siam: I, 271
Gulick, Capt. — : I, 42, II, 49
Gurkas: II, 200
Gwalior: native state in India, I,
111
Hakone: visits, I, 414; highway
near (illustration), 415
Halckett, Mr. — : killed by elephant,
II, 332
Hall, Irving: II, 142
Hall of Manly Virtue: see jiu jitsu
Hambantota, Ceylon : writes from, I,
215
Hammond, Mr. — : resident of Cooch
Behar, I, 118, 121, 124; giving
final instructions before drive (il
lustration), 125
Hammond, Mrs. — : wife of preced
ing, I, 118, 128
Hart, Sir Robert: I, 41, II, 46, 54
Harte, Mr. — : Y.M.C.A. general
secretary in Ceylon, I, 213, 246;
dines with, 255
Hartebeest: kills, II, 245, 257, 336;
sights herd, 246; miss, 246; shoots
bull, 335
Hartwell, Miss Emily: half sister of
Pres. Peak, II, 127, 137
Hartwell, Mrs. — : mother of Prea
Peak, II, 127, 137
Harunoku Monastery: I, 409-410
Harvey, Judge — : I, 41, II, 49

two]

INDEX

423

Haskins, Mr. — : U.S. legation sec
retary, II, 44, 119
Haskins, Mrs. — : wife of preced
ing, II, 119
Hay, Col. John: I, 50, 117, 272
Hayes, Dr. — : medical adviser to
the king of Siam, I, 272
Head-hunters of Formosa: II, 141;
invited to visit, 142; visit to, 155-
159; can not revisit, 167
Heatly, Mr. — : II, 244
Henderson, Dr. — : II, 332
Heyderabad: native state in India,
I, 111
Hickson, Capt. — : II, 257
Hillier, Mr. — : owns ranch, I, 98;
described, 101
Hindoo conjuror: I, 138-139
Hindoos: sadness of, II, 199;
treachery of, 199; difference be
tween people of north and south,
200; English attitude toward, 200-
201; women, 203; nautch girls,
204; jugglers, I, 138-139, II, 204;
of north, 211
Hippopotamus: shoots two, II, 336
Hitendra Nerayahn: son of the Ma
harajah of Cooch Behar, I, 117,
118; described, 121; takes bear
with two cubs alive, 123; leaves
for Cornell Univ., 133
Hockey: between King's Own Reg
iment team and club team, I, 130-
131
Hokuto: Japanese health resort, II,
142
Holler, Mr. — : guest at Sinagar, I,
284
Holler, Mrs. — : wife of preceding,
I, 284, 285
Holloway, Mr. — : I, 84-85
Homage Durbar: I, 114
Hong Kong: I, 54, 55
Hong Wan-ji Temples: I, 423
Home, Mr. — : described, II, 265-
266; dinner with, 267; revisit,
312; leave trophies with, 313;

work, satisfactory, 326; settle ac
counts with, 326; personality, 327
Horton, Lady: plans drives, II, 221
Hosha: village in Formosa, II, 168
Hosha Ban: tribe of Formosa, II,
168; bad blood between, and Na
makama Ban, 168; young braves
of, 169; drink with Namakama
Ban, 169; musical tribe, 169-170;
girl of, 170; brave of (illustra
tion), 173; bid farewell to, 178
Hospital: Dr. H. N. Kinnear 's, II,
136
Hot springs: in Java, I, 303
Hotzugon: camp at, II, 161, 162
Houseboat: on Jhelum River, I, 188
Hoyt, Mr. — : delightful raconteur,
I, 285
Hsipaw: town in Burma, I, 94
Huebner, Mr — : II, 238, footnote
Humayun: father of Akbar, II, 204
Hume, Dr. — : I, 109
Humpo, Sargeant: II, 159
Hunting: at Cooch Behar- 1, 117-
127; black buck, 145-147; panther,
160-171; in Ceylon -J, 215-246;
plan for, 217; personnel, 220;
sambur, 222-223; shoots, 239, 240-
241; deer buck, 223; bull buffalo,
227-228; boar, 231-232; sambur
stag, 235; rogue elephant, 237-
240; no trophy of rogue elephant,
319-320; deer, 245; in Travancore -
ibex, 259-260; m Java - 285-298 ;
reported poor, 285; starts, 286;
trip to hunting grounds, 287-
289; chances for game, 289; baron
wounds lalaki, 291; sees and
shoots at three, 296; shoots ban-
teng, 297; return trip, 298; in
Africa - prepares for trip, I, 314-
315; servants, tabulated, 316
shoots rhino, 319; trophies of sec
ond elephant, 320; bag, 320-321
buffalo puts up good fight, 320
bag, compared with others, 321
leopard, 321; second hunting trip

424

INDEX

[Vol.

from Nairobi, bag, 324, II, 237-
345; hartebeest, 245; sight
game, 246; rhino, 271; lion, 280-
282; Tarlton kills buffalo, 284;
shoots male lion, 289; shoots two
female lions, 290-291, 293; buf
falo, 294; from machan, 294-296,
314; in Meru country, 303-333;
after elephants, 314-326; shoots
elephant, 325; shoots sable, 343-
344; see also names of various
animals
Hurst, Dr. — : gives opinion of Jap
anese in Korea, I, 441
Ibex: 259-260
Ikao: street scene (illustration), I,
31; visits, 409; trip from, to Ka-
ruizawa, 411-412
Imatsu San: Japanese gentleman, I,
409-410
Immamura, Mr. — : interpreter, II,
143; arrives, 144; greed of, 168
Impala: loses, II, 295; bags, 296,
300; misses, 299
Imperial Palace: Kioto, I, 421-422
Inangaki : entertained by, I, 36 ; give
dinner to, 424-426; entertains at
summer home, 427
India: Government House in Cal
cutta, I, 111, 114; mysticism, II,
198, 203; former greatness, 199;
romance, 199 ; religions, 200 ; na
tive states, 200; gods, 203; list of
books on, 409-410
Indian Mutiny, Great: II, 209-210
Indians: I, 113; see Hindoos
Industries: notes kept on, II, 367
Inland Sea: I, 36, 48, 427, 428, 430
I'timand-Ud-Daulah: tomb of, I, 139
Ito, Marquis: I, 437
Iyesu San: I, 24, 25
Jackson, Ambassador — : I, 110
Jackson, Mr. — : Lt.-gov. of B. E. A.,
II, 334

Jade Spring Temple: I, 41; illustra
tion, 43; mentioned, II, 50
Jama Masjid: II, 211
Jamison, Mr. — : American archi
tect and engineer, I, 41, 42, II,
45, 54, 119
Japan: off the coast of, I, 22; wild
flowers of, 29; four classes in,
371; students of, 373; list of
books on, II, 410
Japanese: as victors, I, 85; inns,
338-339; students, 373; wrestlers,
374; family life, 375-376; war
riors, 376; fencing, 384; simplicity
of life, 386; meal, order of, 389;
theatre, 419-421 ; art, 422 ; in Ko
rea, 439-443 ; gain control of, 446 ;
entering Korea, 446; strong hand
of (illustration), 455; given cause
for interference in Korean affairs,
457; more adaptable than Chinese,
II, 112; compared with Chinese,
113-114; spies, 138; gain control
of Formosa, 141; build railroad
in Formosa, 141; deliberateness,
145; policy in Formosa, 184
Java: I, 62, 68, 69; hot springs in,
303; tea planting, 350, II, 192;
rubber planting, I. 352; im
portance to Holland, II, 190;
culture system in, 191-193; dra
matic entertainment in, 194-195;
list of books on, 410-411; hunting
in, see hunting
Javanese: village life, I, 68; peas
antry, 81-82; finest people of Ma
lay race, II, 185; pay "dodok"
to white man, 185 ; native costume
of, 185; simplicity of life, 185;
antiquities exhibited in Batavia,
188; Dutch rule over, 189; dra
matic entertainment of, 194-195
Jehangir, Emperor: son of Akbar, I,
180, 181, II, 206
Jehangir: mosque of, II, 211
Jeramba: second gun boy, II, 272;
characteristics of, 338

two]

INDEX

425

Jessamine Tower: Agra, I, 153, II,
205
Jewish legend: II, 373
Jeypore: writes from, I, 199; de
scribes, 199, II, 212; pageant of
the sun (illustration), I, 205; at,
II, 212; former importance, 215-
216
Jhelum River : writes from, I, 159 ;
houseboat on, 188 ; life on, 191 ;
illustration, 201
Jitendra Nerayahn, Prince: son of
Maharajah of Cooch Behar, I,
128; participates in hockey game,
130-131; wants to hunt in Kash
mir, 133
Jiu jitsu: school, I, 24, 394; joins
school, 34; described, 373; club
(Hall of Manly Virtue), 418-419,
423; tries on soldier, II, 19
Joseph, Mr. — : dine with, II, 346
Joshian Maru, S.S: I, 51
Jugglers: Hindoo, II, 204
Juji Nakada: Japanese Christian
missionary, I, 371 ; helps plan trip,
372; conversation with, 375; ser
vice conducted by, 377 ; adventures
of, 378
Juma: character of, II, 338
Jumna River: I, 141; illustration,
143
Kabaia: tight fitting jacket of Ja
vanese, II, 185
Ka-getsu Tea House: I, 24-25
Kagi: city of Formosa, II, 179;
give banquet in, 179-180
Kago: described, I, 414
Kaiping: coasting steamer, I, 37, II,
139 ; officers of, 139 ; rescues small
ship, 140
Kalgan: at, II, 87, 92; described,
89-90; club-land of, 93
Kalgan Pass: II, 95; legend of peak
in, 95
Earn Icapala : worn by Javanese men,
II, 185

Kanchanjanga: I, 118; illustration.
119
Kandy, Kingdom of: II, 220; mod
ern Kandy, 220; Temple of the
Tooth, 220-221; drives about, 221
Kaniko: "boy" of Hervey Perrin,
I, 398-401
Kanzler (tramp coasting steamer) :
writes from, I, 308; describes,
308; captain of, 309
Kapala: I, 349
Karuizawa: writes from, I, 29; trip
from, 33; the man next door at,
341
Kashmir: trip through, described, I,
175-196; into (illustration), 173;
vale of (illustration), 177; ruins
of Martand, 354^359; temple of
Martand (illustration), 355; sug
gestive reading on, II, 411
Kashmiri: I, 179
Kawara, Capt. — : I, 21, 371; well
known, 377
Kenia: on spurs of (illustration),
II, 321
Ketteler, Baron — : German ambas
sador, murdered during the Boxer
trouble, I, 42
Keyes, Mr. — : I, 251, 252
Khyber Pass: II, 211
Khyber Rifles: II, 211
Kikuyu: African tribe, II, 254-257;
hire six, 257; saying of, 328
Kikuyu: African village (illustra
tion), II, 255
Kilimanjaro: in distance (illustra
tion), II, 339
King, Capt. — : U.S.A., I, 134, 139
King, Hon. Hamilton: U.S minister
to Siam, I, 272
King Theebaw: palace of, I, 89
King's Own Regiment team: plays
hockey, I, 133
Kinnear, Dr. H. N: medical mission
ary, II, 135; hospital of, 136
Kinnear, Mrs. H. N : wife of preced
ing, II, 135

426

INDEX

[Vol.

Kioto: I, 34; visits, 418; Golden
Pavilion and Temple, 419 ; Imperi
al Palace and Shogun's Palace,
421-422; Chion-in Temple, 422;
Hong Wanji Temples, 423; give
dinner in, 424-426
Kitchener, General Lord: I, 112;
made Knight of the First Order
of the Star of In'dia, 114
Knox, Senator — :I, 115
Kobe: visits, I, 426
Kobiashi San: visit village festival
with, I, 429; climb peak with,
429-430
Kobiashi San: Japanese doctor, I,
434
Kobiyashi, Lt. — : sub-prefect of
Tomku Province, II, 148; message
to, 167
Kock, Dr — : II, 305, footnote
Kohinoor Diamond: I, 158
Koodoo: quotation from F. C. Se-
lous on, II, 344, footnote
Korea: Japanese soldiers in, I, 439;
domineering rule of Japanese in,
443, 446-447; Chinese in, 444; for
eign entrance into, 444; queen of,
murder planned, 445; suggestive
reading on, II, 411
Korean: coolies, I, 438; gentlemen,
438, 439 ; huts, 439 ; desire to get
rid of Japanese, 440; resent Jap.
rule, 440; characteristics of, 447,
448
Kuan Yu : Chinese official, II, 37
Kulian Mt: visit, II, 128; ascent of,
128-129
Kumbukkan River: I, 227
Kuroki, Gen. — : I, 20, 376
Ku Shan Monastery : II, 128 ; ascent
to, 128-129; described, 129-133;
priests of, 130; illustration, 131;
mentioned, 140
Kutab Minar: I, 158
Ladak: country east of Kashmir, II,
119

La Dow: tiffin at, II, 118
Laka Laka: II, 152-155; head-hunt
ers of (illustration), 157
Lake, Mr. — : II, 345
Lake Louise Chalet: I, 18
Lake M 'Gunga (Africa) : country
near (illustration), II, 317; hunt
ing near, 316-326
Lake Temple of Pandrathan (Mar
tand ruin) : classic influence in,
I, 357
Lalaki: wounds, I, 291; sees and
shoots at three, 296; finds one
killed, 297; finds traces of second,
297
Lamas: priests of Lama Temple, II,
36
Lama Temple: II, 36; priests of,
36
Landfield, Mr. — : Cornell graduate,
I, 84
Landfield, Mrs. — (a Russian prin
cess) : wife of preceding, I, 84
Lao-tsze: founder of Taoism, II,
127; creed of, simple, 127; as
sailed sacerdotalism, 127-128
Lee: cook, II, 52; described, 70; re
joiced to find masters, 108 ; in
cident of right of way, 112; bid
farewell, 118
Leinnung, Herr — : I, 417
Leopard: shot by Daniels at Cooch
Behar, I, 124; picked up by ele
phant (illustration), 125; hear,
224; wounds, 321; Tarlton shoots,
II, 300; sights, 311; loses, 311-
312 and footnote
Lesser kudu: anxious to try for, II,
326; shoots buck, 337, 341
Lethargus: described, II, 304-305,
footnote
Letters from: S.S. Maritana, I, 19;
S.S. Shinana Maru, 21; Tokio, 23,
30; Karuizawa, 29; Kioto, 34;
Myajima, 35; Mukden, 36; S.S.
Kaiping, 37; Hokuto, 47; S.S.
Joshian Maru, 51; Hong Kong,

two]

INDEX

427

54; S.S. Tjibodas, 55; Sinagar,
77, 284; Batavia, 61, 77, 283; Bui
tenzorg, 62, 64, 67; Sindinglaya,
69; Djokjokarta, 70; Baruboedoer,
72; Singapore, 83, 282, 298; Man
dalay, 83; Napha, 94; Rangoon,
101; Calcutta, 105, 107, 108, 113,
116, 128, 129, 132; Jungles of
Cooch Behar, 117; Benares, 134;
Agra, 139, 151; near Fatehpur
Sikri, 141 ; Jhelum River, 159 ; Ra
walpindi, 196; Jeypore, 199; Bom
bay, 200, 306; Mangalore, 200;
Colombo, 207, 209, 210, 214, 246,
248, 251, 260, 304; Hambantota,
215; Travaneore, 256; S.S. Damp
fer Goben, 263; S.S. Deli, 267,
271; Ocean, 305; S.S. Kanzler,
308; Mahe, Seychelles Isles, 312;
Mombasa, 314, 317, 324; Fort
Hall, 318; Nairobi, 319, 321, 322,
323; Cairo, 325; S.S. Lucania,
329
Letters to: Father, I, 17, 19, 24, 25,
36, 37, 55, 105, 108, 117, 129, 134,
159, 200, 214, 263, 271, 283, 306,
314, 318; Mother, 19, 30, 34, 35,
51, 54, 67, 83, 116, 119, 210, 256,
304, 317, 321; Liv, 17, 18, 77, 132,
151, 248, 305, 319; Grace, 21, 267;
Aunt Kate, 29, 322, 325; Phid,
47, 64, 107, 251, 256, 284, 322;
Constance, 13, 308, 323; Grand
mother, 62, 128; Uncle Will, 324,
329
Lewis, Mr. — : secretary of the Y.
M.C.A., Shang-hai, I, 47
Lidar Valley: I, 188; illustration,
193
Lion: report of, II, 280; after,
280-282; secure male and fe
male, 282; shoots male, 289; shoot
two females, 290-291, 293; sur
prise herd, 292 ; rank of, 344, foot
note
Loksang: S.S., on board the, II, 120-
122; difficulty in locating, 120;

described, 120; scenery from, 121-
122
Lotus-eaters: illustration, I, 79
Lu: "boy" recommended by Mr.
Rockhill, II, 50, 51; rejoiced at
end of Formosan trip, 181
Ludlow, Dr. — : I, 212, 214
Luksang: tramp steamer, mentioned,
II, 140
Lu Su: keeper of inn, II, 118
Lyon, Hon. P. C: I, 247
Lyons, Col. — : I. 118
Machan: night hunt from, I, 294-
296; built for hunting elephants,
314
McCormick, Mr — : member of the
associated press, I, 41, II, 46-49,
53
McDougall, Mr. — : II, 319-320
McKenzie, Mr. - — : plans trip, I,
449; preparations for, 454; forced
to give up, 458; takes trip, 458,
footnote
McKinley, President: II, 396
MaeMechan, T. R: quotation from,
I, 218, 219
Maharajah of Cooch Behar: I, 111;
of Benares, 138
Mahe (capital of Seychelles Is
lands) : founded by French, I,
311; writes from, 312
Mahinda: II, 225
Mail: in foreign lands, II, 333,334,
footnote
Maji amoto ants: see ants
Malaysia: part of former empire,
II, 121; list of books on, 410-411
Manchu lady and companions: II,
133
Manchuria: products of, II, 21-22;
suggestive reading on, 411
Manchurians: II, 21
Manchus: II, 34
Mandalay: writes from, I, 83; life
in, 89-93 ; detail of carving on
Queen's Monastery (illustration),

428

INDEX

[Vol.

91; poem on, 93; dancers at re
union party in, 103
Mandarin: illustration, II, 59
Mandelsloe, Mr. — : quotation from,
I, 366-369
Mangalore: writes from, I, 200
Mangosteens: I, 283
Manila: port of, II, 402
Man next door at Karuizawa, the:
sketch, I, 341-342
Maple Club: Tokio, I, 23, 24; enter
tained at, 387
Marahani of Cooch Behar: I, 134
Marble carving and inlaying: note
on, II, 375
Maritana, S.S: I, 17
Martand, the ruins of (Kashmir) :
sketch, I, 354-359; temple of (il
lustration), 355
Marvin, Mr. — : of Harvard, II, 23
Masai (African tribe) : described,
II, 276-277 and footnote; sent
after Merus, 278; Elmorani of
(illustration), 301; warriors, 312
Masseur, Blind: I, 426
Medicine kit: I, 214; outfit for
hunting, II, 353-354
Menam River: Siamese dagoba on
(illustration), I, 269; life on, 362
Meru, Africa: return to, II, 312,
326
Merus (African tribe) : society of,
II, 266, footnote; anxious to leave
safari, II, 277; revolt of, 278;
brought back, 279
M'Gunga, Lake: country near (il
lustration), II, 317; hunting near,
316-326
Michaels, Col. — : U.S. consul-gen
eral, I, 110, 111 ; dine with, 113
Mickailov, Konstantinde : Russian lt.-
col., II, 12; letter from, 13, foot
note
Millais, F. G: quotation from, II
343, footnote
Min River: fortifications along, II,
122; compared with Rhine, 122

Ming, Mr. — : teacher in Foochow
College, II, 137
Ming Tombs: illustration, II, 25;
valley of, 58-61; described, 64-66;
poem, 69
Minto, Lady: I, 110; entertained at
home of, 111; mentioned, 115
Minto, Lord: entertained by, 111-
112
Mioshi, Mr. — : secretary of foreign
affairs, II, 183
Missionaries, Scotch: at Darjeeling,
I, 129; in Siam, 274-278; Japanese
try to prevent holding meetings
in Korea, 453; during Boxer
trouble, II, 91-92; molested in
Fuhkien Province, 123 ; rescued by
Col. Pimperniekel, 124
Mogul Gardens: of Kashmir, I, 183
Moguls, Great: I, 153, 157
Mohammed Shah: tomb of, 158-159
Mombasa: writes from, I, 317, 324;
describes, 317; early references to,
318; at, II, 237, 238, 345; goes
to, 341; harbor of (illustration),
239; streets of (illustration), 239
Mombasa Club (East Africa) : writes
from, I, 314
Mongolia: trip into, described, II,
50-56; preparation for, 51-53; trip
to, 56-95; starting for (illustra
tion), 67; trip in, 95-119; carts
left behind, 100; at Da Shoya's
encampment, 100-108; suggestive
reading on, 411
Mongolian: meals, II, 102; cart-
caravan, 102; temple, 104-105,
108; religion, 106; currency, 106;
house, 107
Mongols: II, 93-94, 99; good horse
men, 105; religion, 106; follow
Chinese fashions, 107; described,
107-108; healthy, 108
Monkeys: I, 295
Monks of Mandalay: I, 89-90
Moon Steps: Anuradhpura, II, 226;
illustration, 227

two]

INDEX

429

Morgan, Mr. — : manager of Peavey
Company, II, 368
Morrison, Dr. — : I, 41; book by,
II, 45; influential, 45-46; illus
tration, 47
M'toto andei: anxious to try for, II,
326
M'toto Andei: at, II, 338; jungle
about (illustration), 339
Mt. Kenia: on spurs of (illustra
tion), 321; Mr. Readdie attempts
to climb, II, 326
Mount Morrison: I, 49, 51, 55;
ascent, II, 139-184; trip to com
prise, 142; preparation for, 142-
143; first day of trip, 143-144;
difficulties at Rinkiho, 144-145;
trip described, 143-184; trail, 151-
178; difficulties, 157, 160-161; il
lustrations of trail, 165, 173; reach
summit, 163-164; illustration, 165;
descent, 167-184
Mukden, Manchuria: I, 36-37; at,
II, 20; Ming Tombs (illustration),
25
Mumtaz Mahal: wife of Akbar, I,
140, poem to the memory of, 141-
142
Musical instruments: made of bam
boo, I, 299
Museum of Batavian Society of Arts
and Sciences: described, II, 188-
189
Mutiny: helps quell near Colombo, I,
252; Great Indian, II, 209-210
Myajima: I, 35, 36; visits, 428; vil
lage festival in, 429; described,
431; illustration, 435
Myanoshita: visits, I, 413
Naamah: inventor of spinning and
weaving, II, 373
Nagao, Mr. — : chief of Public
Works Department, II, 143, 183
Nagasaki, M — : I, 25, 33, 35
Nagasaki, M. — (head of imperial

household) : presents letter from,
1,397
Nairobi: writes from, I, 319, 321,
322, 323; at, II, 241, 243; de
scribed, 244
Nakada, Dr. — : Japanese mission
ary, I, 20-21; attempts to rescue
Japanese prostitute, 336
Namadsu: visits, I, 418; trip from
Hakone to, 418
Nama-kama: police station in For
mosa, II, 148
Namakama Ban: tribe in Formosa,
II, 148; bad blood between, and
Hosha Ban, 168; attitude in
Hosha, 168-169; treat braves of
Hosha Ban, 169
Nankow: at, II, 56, 117; trip from,
to Why-li-chien, 70-77; inn in,
118
Nankow Pass: illustration, II, 75
Napha (Mr. Hillier's ranch) : writes
from, I, 94, 101
Nation, Mrs. Carrie : II, 386
Nautch dance: I, 138, 157
Nautch girls: II, 204
Navita, Y. T: Japanese, II, 18
Ndaminuki: native sultan, II, 270
Negombo: native dinner in, II, 223-
224
Neilson, Capt. — : I, 105; meets
again in Mombasa, 325; spends
evening with, 330
Neilson, Lt. — : shoots buffalo, II.
306; bag, 346; on boat, 349
Nestorians: II, 63
Netherlands Trading Company: II,
191
Neumann, Mr. — : II, 270; sketch
of, 295, footnote
Newland, Mr. — : II, 242; lunch
with, 345
Nicholsen, Mr. — : capt. of tramp
coasting steamer, I, 308; de
scribed, 309
Nikko: I, 26; approach to temple

430

INDEX

[Vol.

(illustration), 27; visits, 398; trip
from, to Chuzenji, 402-403
Nile River: I, 329
Nitaka Yamma (Mt. Morrison) : II,
148; see also Mount Morrison
North Ming Tombs (Mukden) : II,
24
Numata: visits, I, 407; trip from
Yumoto, 407-408
Nysam of Heyderabad: I, 112
Okuman, Count: minister of for
eign affairs, I, 371
Olive, Mr. — : in charge of game
preserve, I, 289
Olopun: II, 63
On leaving home: sketch, I, 333-334
Oribi: shoot, II, 308
Oryx: misses, II, 275; kills, 275;
shoots female, 282 ; Tarlton shoots,
291, 300 ; shoots, 297
Osiwara, Mr. — : Japanese gentle
man, I, 24, 387; entertains at
Ujeno Park, 387
Outfit for shooting: II, 351-357;
personal kit, 351-352; battery, etc.,
353; preservatives for skins, 353;
medicine kit, 353-354; food stuffs,
354-356; transportation, 356; sa
fari outfit, 356-357
Pajongs: II, 194
Palm wine: II, 342
Panther: hunting, I, 160-171; hunts
at night, 165; messenger stops
hunt, I, 170
Pape, Mr. — : American fibre-grow
er, II, 238
Pappandajan (volcano in Java) :
ascent, I, 303
Parambanam, plain of: I, 83
Parenti, Mr. — : II, 238 and foot
note
Parish, Maxfield: country of (illus
tration), I, 181
Parkenson, Mr. — : II, 349

Passara: illustration, II, 235
Peak, Pres. — : of Toochow College,
II, 125, 134
Peak, Mrs. — : wife of preceding,
II, 127, 137
Pearl island: trip to a, I, 251-252;
illustration, 253; return trip, 255
Pearl Mosque (Agra) : II, 205
Pearls, Culture: I, 391
Peary, Lt. — : II, 161
Peck, Mr. — : II, 119
Peking: gate (illustration), I, 39;
best things in, 42; at, II, 31, 32,
40, 44, 49, 50, 119; early history
of, 33-34; wall of, 32, 35; Im
perial City of, 35; Forbidden City
of, 35, 38; Hall of the Classics,
36 ; Bell Tower legend, 37-38 ; Yel
low and Great Bell Temples, 40;
Great Temple of Heaven, 40-43;
illustration, 41; trip from, to Nan
kow, 57
Penuranda, Duke of: buys pony, II,
334
Pepuans: people of Formosa, II, 141
Peradeniya: Botanical Gardens of,
II, 221-222
Percival, Mr. — : B.I. Steamship
Co.'s Agent, I, 203
Percival, Mrs. — : wife of preceding,
I, 207
Persia : I, 110 ; gives up trip to, 152 ;
suggestive reading on, II, 411-412
Peris: head tracker, I, 215, 220, 221
Personnel, hunting: in Ceylon, I,
235-236
Pha Reyo: convert of Snyder, I,
361
Philippines: opportunity to study
American colonial policy, I, 58-
60; reasons for not visiting, II,
391; questions concerning, 392-
393; answers, 394-406; powers of
legislature, 394; Commission, 394;
governor-general, 394; judiciary,
395; justices of peace, 395; pres-

two]

INDEX

431

ent form of government, 396;
word "colony" avoided, 396;
comparison with Eng. colonization,
397; Assembly, 397; attitude of
U.S. toward, 397-398; future
plans, 398; American troops in,
398; native troops, 398; Constab
ulary, 398-399; Bureau of civil
service, 400; source of strength,
400; commercial value, 400, 401;
products, 400-401 ; tariff, 401 ; rev
enue, 401-402; good roads, 402;
railroads, 402 ; dredging, 402-403 ;
disease in, 403; new buildings,
403; schools, 404; new enterprises,
404; imports, 404-405; exports,
405; municipal government, 405-
406; provinces, 406; list of books
on, 409
Phyong-yang: at, II, 11; described,
12; journey from, to Antung, 11-
13; village near (illustration), 15
Pickering, Mr. — : II, 238, 345
Piggott, Mr. — : assistant district
commissioner, II, 257; makes wel
come, 331
Pimpernickel, Col. — : held post dur
ing Dr. Gracey 's absence, II, 123 ;
rescues missionaries, 124; hastens
trial of servant, 124; insists on
seeing Taotai, 124-125; leaves, 125
Pinches, Mr. — : planter in India,
II, 234, 246, 255, 256
Pipes of Pan: illustration, I, 301
Policeman: acts as guide, II, 177
Pool in jungle stream: illustration,
I, 293
Poppy, culture of: forbidden in
Java, II, 192
Portuguese: fort (illustration), II,
239
Preanger Regencies: I, 70
Preservatives for Skins, etc: outfit
for hunting, II, 353
Priests: devil-dancers, II, 106
Pritendra Nerayahn, Princess: I,
134

Procession: of the Durbar, I, 111-
112; wedding, 137-138; Korean,
II, 14; funeral, 119; wedding, 119
Prostitutes: women become, to save
family honor, I, 376
' ' Protector of the Poor : ' ' incident,
148

Queen's Bathing Tank; mentioned,
I, 89; detail of carving on, 91;
described, II, 226 ; illustration, 231
Races: in Java, I, 299
Raffles, Sir Stamford: II, 378
Railway Travel, Japanese: sketch, I,
337
Rajah of Gwalior: I, 115
Rajendra Nerayahn, Prince: I, 131,
132
Ramaditya: I, 358
Rangoon (village in Burma) : writes
from, I, 101
Rawalpindi: writes from, I, 196; at,
II, 211
Readdie, Mr. — : district commis
sioner, II, 253, 254; attempts to
climb Mt. Kenia, 326 ; kindness of,
327
Reeves, Capt. — : U.S. military at
tache at Peking, I, 41, 45, II, 53
Reinecke, Mr. — : I, 21, 35, 380
Resident at Baroda: I, 115
Restaurant: Chinese, II, 55-56
Rest-houses: owned by government,
I, 70-71
Reynolds, Miss — : of Providence, I,
117, 118
Rhinoceros: sight, II, 246; forced
to shoot, 250, 288; charges, 250-
253; kills, 271; elude, 289; charge
by, 298, 308; amusing experience
with, 323; breaks German's leg,
349-350
Rice: in Ceylon, II, 233
Ridley, Mr. — : 253, 254, 332
Rifles: damp climate hard on, I, 304

432

INDEX

[Vol.

Biggs, Dr. — : member of U.S. Ma
rines, II, 40
Rinai: small town in Formosa, II,
144
Rinkiho (town in Formosa) : coolies
dismissed, II, 144; police attempt
to delay trip, 144-145
Riz-taefel: description of, I, 78, II,
187
Robertson, Mr. — : missionary, II, 29
Robinson, J. J: greatest hunter in
Ceylon, I, 212, 214-215, 246, 255,
II, 234
Rockhill, Mr. — : I, 41, 46, II, 32
Roosevelt, President: I, 372, II, 396
Root, Mr. — : I, 272
Root, Mr. — (secretary) : presents
letter from, I, 397
Rothe, Capt. — : II, 253, footnote
Rubber planting: note on, II, 375-
377
Rubber trees: planting in Java, I,
352; in Ceylon, II, 233
Rug making: note on, II, 372-375
Bugs: Persian, II, 373; Turkoman,
373; Kashmiri, 373; making of,
374
Ruins of Martand, The: sketch, I,
354-359
Russian newspaper-man ; travels
with, II, 11
Ryall, Mr. — : supt. of police, II,
238, footnote
Ryerson, Mr. — : I, 251, 252
Sable: anxious to try for, II, 326;
sight, 343; shoots, 343-344; quo
tation from Capt. F. J. Franklin
on, 343, footnote; from F. G. Mil-
lais on, 343, footnote; quotation
from F. C. Selous on, 344, foot
note
Sacerdotalism: assailed by Lao-tsze,
II, 127-128
Sadler, Lord: ball, II, 333
Safari: prepares, I, 314; compares
with others, 319; small, II, 253;

rearrange, 327; of Spaniards, 334;
preparations for, 334; sell, 346;
outfit, 356-357; roll call of, 362-
363
St. Augustine: II, 226
Salak: extinct volcano of Java, I,
77
Salim Chisti: friend of Akbar, II,
206; tomb of (illustration), 207
Salitaditya, King: I, 358
Sambur: mistakes for tiger, I, 127;
hunting in Ceylon, 222-223, II,
237; shoots stag, I, 235; shoots,
239; finds, 240-241; hind, 245
Sammons, Mr. — : U.S. consul-gen
eral in Seoul, I, 441; conversation
with, 441-443
Sammons, Wheeler: newspaper man,
I, 450
Sampans: II, 126
Sanderson, Julia (actress) : on board
S.S. Lucania, I, 331
Santa Claus Day: I, 62
Sarong : native Javanese costume, II,
185; value of, 371-372; collection
of, 372
Sato, Dr. — : head of Imperial Hos
pital, I, 23, 24; entertains at
Maple Club, 387
Savages: of Formosa, II, 148-150;
costume of, 149; appearance, 149;
fare, 149; women and girls, 149;
marriage, 150; two visit camp,
150; weapons, 150; chant of, 152;
village of, 155-159; girl drops
bundle, 160-161 ; frighten Chinese,
178
Sawbaw: of Hsipaw, Burma, I, 97,
101-102
Scarlet Woman, the: sketch, I, 335-
336; in storm at sea, 379
Schedules: I, 57
Schraeder, Mr. — : government
agent, I, 217, 237, 243
Schulz, Herr — (engineer of tramp
coasting steamer) : described, I,
309

two]

INDEX

433

Schwarz, Capt. — : of the S.S. Tji-
bodas, I, 60-61
Schwe Dagon Pagoda: I, 86; illus
tration, 87; cleaning out tanks
of, II, 375
Scott, Mr. — : shoots buffalo, II,
306; bag, 346
Sekundra: tomb of Akbar, I, 158
Selous, F. C: quotation from, II,
344, footnote
Seoul: visits, I, 437; Dancing pavil
ion, 451; illustration, II, 15
Serinagur: capital of Kashmir, I,
180; streets of (illustration), I,
197
Severance, Mr. L. H: I, 110, 212,
214
Seychelles Islands: described, I,
310; taken over by English, 311
Shadow play : Javanese, II, 195, 196
Shah Jehan: I, 112, 113, 139, 141,
153, 154, II, 205
Shalimar, Gardens of : illustration,
I, 189
Shang-hai: Chinese estimate of, II,
122; spend two days at, 140
Shan-hai-kuan : at, II, 30 ; trip from,
to Peking, 31-32
Shan Mts., Our Trail in the: illus
tration, I, 99
Shans: importance of, II, 121
Shan-si-fu : at, II, 111
Shan States: II, 121; wild peoples
of, 121
Shan Tribesman: illustration, I, 95
Shimba, Hills: goes to, II, 342; local
sultan of, 342
Shimoneseki: visits, I, 432; treaty
of, II, 141
Shinana Maru, S.S: I, 19, 263; on
board, 371; life on, 372
Shinto religion: I, 374
Shipboard: writes from, I, 305
Shogun's Palace: Kioto, I, 421-422
Shops, Street peddlers and small
curio: sketch, I, 342-343
Siam: visits, I, 271-281; hotel in,

273; women of, 273-274; Dravidi-
an Temple (illustration), 279;
land of contrasts, 360; part of
former empire, II, 121; list of
books on, II, 412-413
Signs: Koreans believe in, I, 454;
Chinese believe in, II, 61, 111
Simba: see lion
Simms, Mr. — : II, 345, 346
Sinagar: tea plantation, I, 77; life
at, 77-82; self-sufficient, 82; in
vited to, 282; writes from, 284;
arrives at, 299; sketch, 348-353;
see Van Heelceren, Baron
Sindinglaya : I, 69
Singapore: writes from, I, 83, 282,
298; at, II, 197; early town of,
197; modern city, 197; Chin
ese in, 197; cosmopolitanism of,
197-198; improvements made by
English, 198
Singleton: mythical soldier, I, 64, 65
Sirdar: shikari, I, 159; bad charac
ter, 160; mentioned, 161; treach
ery, 162
Skein, Mr. — : II, 331; meets, 332;
mentioned, 349
Slandang: shoulder scarf of Java
nese women, II, 185
Sleeping sickness: see Lethargus
Smith, Mr. — : I, 417
Smith, Mrs. — : wife of preceding,
I, 417
Smith, Mr. — : governor-general, II,
391
Smith McKenzie and Company: II,
237-238; leaves outfit with, 345;
settle accounts with, 346
Smith, Seth: II, 245, 332
Snakes: ticpolonga, I, 244; water-
snake, 244; cobra, 245
Snyder, Mr. — : goes to Ayuthia
with, I, 359
Sokuko: at, II, 18; journey from, to
Mukden, 18-23
Sour-sop: I, 295
Span, Mr. — : bag, II, 312

434

INDEX

[Vol.

Sport: list of books on, II, 412-413
Sprague, Mr. — : missionary, I, 46,
108, II, 91-92 ; starts on trip with,
92-93 ; at Da Shoya 's encampment,
101-108; hunts for carts, 101; re
turns without, 101; talks about
Mongols and Chinese, 111; per
forms operation, 111
Sprague, Mrs. — : wife of preceding,
II, 91; entertains, 111
Steamer Life: sketch, I, 334
Steamers, tramp and coasting: illus
tration, I, frontispiece; sketch,
344-348
Stevenson, Mr. — : II, 349
Stevenson, Robert L : quotation from,
II, 21-22
Stewart, Mr. — : goes shooting with,
I, 259
Store, Brocket's General: II, 123
Straight, Mr. — (consul-general) :
Cornell graduate, I, 37; plans trip
into Manchuria, 45; trip post
poned, 46, II, 50; declared off, I,
46; mentioned, 246, II, 23, 24;
plans hunting trip, 27-28 ; receives
letter from, 44
Street peddlers and small curio
shops: sketch, I, 342-343; buy
from, 392
Stroebel, Prof. — : adviser to the
King of Siam, I, 50, 272
Stuart, Mr. — : II, 346
Suji Babba: A.D.C. of Maharajah
of Cooch Behar, I, 118; described,
121
Sultan, native: calls at camp, I, 298
Su Shoya: Mongolian, II, 105; son,
105; sister, 106; sister entertains,
107; wealth compared with Da
Shoya, 107; illustration, 255
Swahili : ability in, language, II, 345
Swinburne, A. C: quotation from,
II, 128
Taft, Wm: secretary, I, 25; pre

sents letter from, 397; policy, II,
396
Tainan: southern capital of For
mosa, II, 141
Taipfih: northern capital of For
mosa, II, 141
Taj Mahal: I, 140-141; illustration,
143; described, 153-157; legend of,
154
Takagi, Dr. — : baron, I, 393
Tamerlane: mythical letter from, I,
256
Tank: sign of former civilization, I,
229-230; birds near, 230-231; sun
rise, 231
Taoism: founded by Lao-tze, II,
127; introduced by Thuang-Tze,
127; at first, simple, 127; mixed
with magic, etc., 127; principal
tenet of, 128
Taoists: II, 63
Taotais: under viceroy of Fuhkien
Province, II, 123; Col. Pimper-
nickel hastens trial before one of,
124; in Foochow, 134
Tarleton, Leslie (ivory hunter) : ac
companies on hunting trip into Af
rica, I, 318, II, 243-333; bag, I,
320-321; bag, compared with
others, 321; fine companion, 322;
well known hunter, II, 241-242;
would like to take trip, 243
Taylor, Mr. — : M.P. of Australia,
I, 84, 102, 112, 113
Taylor, Stewart: tea-planter, II,
230 ; visit, 234
Tea: cultivation of, in Java, I, 350,
II, 192; in Ceylon, 230-233
Tea-fabricks: I, 351
Tea factory: I, 78
Tea Houses, Japanese: sketch, I,
336-337; frequent stops at, 403;
Willow Pattern, II, 120
Temple, Buddhist: II, 127; Taoist,
127
Temple of the Tooth (Kandy) : de-

two]

INDEX

435

scribed, II, 220-221; library of,
221
Theatre: Malay, I, 64; Japanese,
419-421 ; Chinese, II, 54-55, 133
Theatre party: in Calcutta, I, 112,
115
Thibet: suggestive reading, II, 411
Thompson, Mr. — : II, 245
Thompson gazelle: see gazelle
Threshing floor: illustration, II, 85
Thuang-Tze: introduced Taoism in
to China, II, 127
Thwing, Dr. Chas. F: I, 34, 47, 50,
417; dine with, II, 120
Thwing, Mrs. Chas. F: wife of pre
ceding, I, 34, 47, 50, 417; dine
with, II, 120
Tigers: hunting tales of, I, 105; in
India, 106; man-eater in Zoo, 106,
116; chances for hunting, slight,
110; hunting for, 122-123, 124-
127; no luck, 128; eats calf ban-
teng, 292; Manchurian, II, 13;
cave, 122, and footnote
Tigress: "killed" near camp, I, 124
Timber land: belonging to Fugita
Lumber Company, II, 172
Time required to go from place to
place: I, 249
Tissa, King: II, 225
Tjibodas, S.S: I, 55
Tokio: I, 23, 24, 30; arrival in, I,
386; Arsenal Gardens of (illus
tration), 399; back to, 412
Tomb: of Akbar, II, 206; of Salim
Chisti (illustration), 207
Tombs: Egyptian (illustration), I,
327; North Ming, II, 24
"Tommies": I, 113
Tongas: I, 175
Tonkin: part of former empire, II,
121
Topang: highest type of Javanese
dramatic entertainment, II, 194-
195; described, 195
Toroku: town in Formosa, II, 144

Tower, Baby: Foochow, II, 135-136
Tramp steamer: illustration, I,
frontispiece; on board, 305;
sketch, 344-348
Transportation: outfit for hunting,
II, 356
Travancore (native state in India) :
invitation to shoot there, I, 246;
writes from, 256, 259; jungle of
(illustration), 257; low country of
(illustration), 261
Treasures, palace: II, 24-27; temple,
105-106
Treaty of Shimoneseki: II, 141
Tsetse flies : near camp, II, 303 ; car
ry trypanosomes, 304-305, footnote
Tumpo : village of Formosa, II, 151 ;
illustration, 153
Turkestan: suggestive reading on,
II, 411-412
Tyson, Mr. — : II, 332
Underwood and Underwood: grant
permission to use illustrations, II,
231, 239, 251, 255, 263, 273, 285,
301, 309, 317, 339, 369 ; mentioned,
331
Van Amerongen, Mr. — : I, 284,
286
Van den Bosch, — : former governor
of Java, II, 191
Van Dormer, Mr. — : II, 253, foot
note
Van Dyk, Baron: I, 284, 286
Van Harthooru, Mr. — : nobleman
and judge of Court of Appeals at
Soerabaya, I, 72, 75
Van Heekeren tot Valien, Baron L.
A. F. H: tea planter in Java, I,
77, 78; sportsman, 81; dictator
on plantation, 81-82; mentioned,
244; invitation to hunt with, 246-
247; hunting with, 286-299;
forced to return from hunt, 295;
mentioned, 299; bungalow (illus-

436

INDEX

[Vol.

tration), 301; owns collection of
sarongs, II, 372
Van McMurray, John : first secretary
of legation in Siam, I, 273
Van Orsler, Baron: I, 78
Vasco da Gama : cairn of stones,
built by, I, 317
Veranda: turned into temporary
bazaar, II, 134
Viceroy of Fuhkien Province: forti
fied Min River, II, 122; makes
Foochow his capital, 134; should
be given full power, 200
Victoria: I, 19
Victor Nerayahn, Prince: goes to
Cornell University, I, 133
Village: African, II, 331
Vineing, Mr. — : II, 346
Vishnu: I, 134
Vogel, Lt. — : II, 49
Waeber, M. — : Russian minister to
Korea, I, 443
Walker, Mr. — : II, 345
Wall of Peking: II, 32; described,
II, 35
Walters, Mr. — : II, 349
Wambugu: see Sultan Wambugu
Wanderobo: wild bushmen, II, 265,
footnote
War, Japanese-Russo : I, 85-86
Wart hog: bags, 287, 300
Water-buck: kills, II, 250; illustra
tion, 251; loses, 257; shoots de
fassa, 291; sees, 323; shoots, 331
Water buffalo : dislike foreigners, II,
128, 146; see buffalo
Water-kastel : of Java, I, 71-72; il
lustration, 73
Wayang-wayang : shadow- play, II,
195; described, 196
Wedding procession: Benares, I,
137-138
Weltevreden: residential suburb of
Batavia, II, 184; beauty of, 186

Westingard, Mr. — : most influential
foreigner in Siam, I, 272, 278
White, Capt. Denham : II, 202
Why-li-chien: at, II, 69; described,
77; trip from, to Ching-ming-ee,
78-82; at, 112; sunset at, 114;
trip from, to Nankow, 117-119
Wilder, Mr. — : consul at Hong
Kong, II, 123, 134
Williams, Prof. — : of Yale, I, 130,
380
Willow Pattern Tea House: II, 120
Woodlands: Calcutta residence of
Maharajah of Cooch Behar, I, 128,
133
Worthington, Capt. — : relates lion
story, II, 238, footnote
Wright, Ambassador: U.S. ambassa
dor to Japan, I, 397
Yala River: bullock carts crossing
(illustration), I, 255; mentioned, 227
Yamen: Col. Pimpernickel goes to,
to see Taotai, II, 125
Yellow Temple: Peking, II, 40
Yokohama: visits, I, 413
Yori Tomo: I, 390
Younghusband, Col. — : British res
ident at Serinagur, I, 179
Y.M.C.A: I, 108-109; asked to pre
side at meeting of, 128
Yuan Shi Kai: I, 42, 45
Yumoto: writes from, I, 25; visits,
404; trip from Chuzenji to, 404;
described, 407
Yung Le: a Chinese emperor, II, 37
Yunnan Province: part of former
empire, II, 121
Zakka Kheels: I, 131, 175; out
break, 202
Zebra: secure, II, 261; alarm eland,
307
Zoological Gardens (Calcutta) : tiger
in, I, 106, 112, 116

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