'.Oji ' *

[HttMM
iv,; ;:
ffiffii
II
m
mm
YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

Gift of
W. L. Mann

VOYAGE

ROUND THE WORLD,

BETWEEN THE

YEARS 1816—1819.

BY M. CAMLLLE DE ROQUEFEUIL,
IN THE SHIP LE BORDELAIS.

LONDON:
PRINTED FOR SIR RICHARD PHILLIPS and Co.
BRIDE-COURT, BRIDGE-STREET.
1823.

D. Sidney and Co. Printers,
Northnmberland Street, Strand.

VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD,
Between the Years 1816 — 19.

THE maritime commerce of France, almost annihilated by
the revolution, by the wars* and the errors which have sur
vived it, was, at the time of the second restoration, confined
within very, narrow limits ; and to aggravate its distress, an
enormous quantity of ready money was periodically taken
from us, comformably to the late treaties. Under such cir-
. cumstances, it was certainly undertaking an enterprize useful
to France, to seek new markets for the national industry ; to
attempt, by means of our own produce, to revive and to main
tain our commercial relations with a country, whose produc
tions Europe has not been able to obtain, till these latter times,
without sacrificing a considerable portion of the precious me
tals which are supplied by the New World.
M. Balguerie, jun. of Bourdeaux, a merchant, whose for
tune and honour have withstood the vicissitudes ofthe revo
lution, has acquired a double claim to the esteem and gratitude
of the public, by fitting out alone, at a great expense, an
expedition to the South Sea and to the North-west Coast of
America. His object was, to procure those articles which are
in request in China, where they were to be sold, and the
produce converted into merchandize of that country which
is consumed in France, and with which our markets might
thus be supplied, without the exportation of money, and by
a useful employment of the produce of our soil, and of the
French manufactures.
Being at Bourdeaux in 1816, a superior officer of the navy,
under whom I have had the honour to serve, had the kindness
to recommend me to M. Balguerie, as qualified to direct his
intended operation. As there was little appearance of my
being able to gratify, on board the King's ships, my love of a
sea-faring life, and as a voyage round the world had always
been a favourite project with me, the proposal made to me

4 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
could not fail to be agreeable. But I did not accept it, with
out stating to M. Balguerie, that my commercial knowledge
was limited to those general notions which it is agreeable to
have, respecting whatever is connected with the interest of
one's native countiy.
The Bordelais, a three-masted vessel, of 200 tons burden,
was fitted out in the summer, and nothing was neglected to
render her fit for the voyage. She was provided with spare
stores for two years; with a long boat, as large as could
be put on board, two whale boats, one in pieces, and a
jolly boat ; she had two cannons (four pounders), six carro-
nades (eight-pounders), a sufficient quantity of arms, of all
kinds, for the crew and for the boats. Besides the usual nau
tical instruments, we had an excellent chronometer by Bre-
guet. Vice Admiral Rosily had the kindness to send me seve
ral maps and books, among which were, the chart of the north
west coast of America, and Vancouver's Voyage. Our crew
consisted of thirty-four men, including the officers, who were
Messrs. Foucault, lieutenant in the navy, Bridle, and Salis,
and the surgeon, M. Vimont. We had also on board a foreign
seaman, whose name was Sicpky, who was acquainted with
some parts of the Great Ocean.
The Bordelais unmoored from Bourdeaux on the 11th of Oc
tober, 1816, I joined her at Pauillac on the 16th ; and on the
19th, in the morning, the wind being favourable, and with the
appearance of continuing, I prepared to put to sea.
Our voyage, during the remainder of the year, offers nothing
out of the usual bourse of such expeditions. On the 1st of
Januaiy, 1817, at noon, we were in 50° 13' south latitude,
forty leagues from the coast of Patagonia, and thirty-five
from the Falkland Islands. The day was beautiful, and I
never saw, in any climate, one that excelled it, in the purity
of the atmosphere and the mildness of the temperature. The
sea, calm as a pond, was scarcely ruffled by a gentle breeze
from the north-east,, which enabled us to make tnree or four
knots an hour, amidst shoals ofphocse, and flocks of penguins
and albatrosses, which came close under the bowsprit. The
thermometer was at 16° above zero. The neighbourhood of
the Falkland Islands reminding me, that France once had a
settlement there, which promised a considerable increase, I
wished that it would again occupy those islands, which, it' is
true, would not furnish any rich produce, but where many
hands might be employed in their cultivation. This colony
would be useful to our fisheries ; it might serve also as a place
of deportation, and would afford a vent to our superabundant
population. Spain, which is on the point of being excluded

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 5
from South America, could have no interest in preventing us :
and even the power which embraces the world with its colonies
and squadrons, could hardly look with a jealous eye on the
occupation of this desolate coast.
On the 3d, at nfae in the morning, we descried Terra del
Fuego to the south, six leagues distance. Approaching the
coast, I recognized it to be the part between Capes St. Ines
and St. Paul. The coast, in this part, is of unequal height,
and bordered by hills, many of which have their feet in the
sea, which breaks on divers parts.1 The interior is very moun
tainous ; the highest summits were covered with snow, which
was lying also in some valleys, though others had a tolerably
fine vegetation. We saw no appearance of detached rocks or
shoals. I continued to run along the coast at the distance of
three or four leagues. It blew fresh from the west; the sea
was high and hollow; we sailed rapidly before the wind, at
the rate of seven miles, by the log. At three o'clock, the
weather, which was gloomy, cleared up, and we saw ahead
considerable tracts, covered with pyramidal mountains, the
singular indentations of which had the most savage ap
pearance. They extended on the starboard, and blended
with those which we saw ahead. This land seemed to
form an immense bay, terminated to the west by a low point,
near which we were, and beyond which it stretched out in the
distance. Believing that I had not run above a dozen leagues
since noon, I could not make my supposed position agree with
the bearings and distance of these new discoveries, which I
could not have failed to recognize as Staten Land, had I not
believed myself ten leagues too far off to see it. I was re
lieved from this uncertainty at four o'clock, when this distant
land, detaching itself from that which we had ahead, left
a passage open, which could be no other than Strait Le-
maire. I cannot attribute, to any other cause than the influence of
currents, the error in which I was, for some time, respecting
my position, for I cannot have committed so considerable a
one in my observation at noon. Saving the comparatively
insignificant error in the bearings, I reckon, from my observa
tions, that we had made eighteen leagues in four hours ; of
which, I attribute eight to the currents, having made only ten
by the log. This difference, extraordinary as it may appear
at first, will not astonish those who know what rapidity cur
rents may acquire, when the force of the tide is augmented by
a fresh wind, along an extent of forty leagues of a coast, with
out any considerable projection. Though the weathitty was
gloomy, I resolved to attempt passing Strait Lemaire faring

6 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
the night, in which we did not succeed quite so soon as was
expected, the wind having failed in the middle of the night.
On the west coast, we saw several fires, whieh the natives had
lighted, as they usually do when they see a vessel ; but none
of their boats appeared. We saw but one whale in the Strait,
which La Peyrouse saw covered with them. At five o'clock,
we were out of Strait Lemaire, and steered to double Cape
Horn. From this time the weather was variable, and very stormy,
so that we incurred great danger, and suffered much hard-,
ship. The sea ran extremely high, and frequently covered
the ship, so that, with this, and the frequent rain and thick
fogs, it was impossible to dry our clothes. for several days
together. Happily, our vessel proved to be a most excellent.
one, and had less lee-way than any I ever knew. During this
rough weather, as the currents continually set towards Terra
del Fuego, I always tacked so as to keep as far from it as pos
sible ; yet, notwithstanding this precaution, the currents^ and
repeated bringing to, made us come twenty-eight leagues to
leeward of Cape Noir, and twenty-four leagues of Cape Pi-
lares. On the 22d, we doubled the parallel of this promon
tory, which is the western extremity of Strait Magellan, having
thus gone round Terra del Fuego, on the eighteenth day since
we made land at Cape Ines, and the sixteenth after quitting
Strait Lemaire.
At present, almost all vessels bound to the South Sea, pass
to the east of the Falkland Islands and Staten Land, without
approaching them. When, at this latitude, they, meet with
westerly winds, which are so common on these seas, they run
to the south, as far as60°, or thereabouts ; there they find vari
ations, which permit them to go to the north-west. Without
pretending to blame the practice adopted by most navigators,
I will observe, that by passing through Strait Lemaire, you
are immediately twenty leagues further west than those who
go round Staten Land, an advantage which is not without
importance in seas, where the great difficulty is, to proceed in
that direction. If you find it difficult to . clear the passage,.
and do not choose to wait under the shelter of Terra del
Fuego for the favourable winds, which are the most common,
the worst that can happen is, to double Cape Saint John the
eastern extremity of Staten Land, which requires only a- few
hours. The navigation round the Magellanic countries has long
since been practised at all seasons; and if it is more fa-
tiguhf*? for the crew in winter than in summer, on account of
the af Jd, and the long nights, we have the advantage of more

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. J
frequent easterly winds, and of longer duration, than in sum
mer. On the whole, this passage does not present any diffi
culties which a good vessel need fear to overcome. It is asto
nishing, that the disasters of the squadrons of Anson and
Pizarro should not have sufficed to give credit to a contrary
opinion in the middle of the last century, when we recollect,
that at its commencement, during the war of the Spanish
succession, numbers of our vessels annually doubled Cape
Horn. It is still more surprising, when we compare the state
of nautical science at that time, with what it was in the
age of Columbus, De Gama, and Magellan. We may add,
that the important progress it has since made, has freed mo
dern navigation from so many dangers, and given it so many
means to overcome the difficulties which still remain, that,
in this respect, as well as in the importance of their discove
ries, no parallel can be drawn between the Argonauts of the
fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and the most celebrated
navigators of modern times, not excepting even Cook himself.
The weather became more favourable as we proceeded to
wards the north, and we were able to open the hatchways to
air and dry the ship, and perform other necessary operations.
The hope of being soon in port, made us the more easily for
get the hardships we had suffered, as they had not affected the
health of the crew : thanks to the constant attention paid to
this point ! It is true, the crews of the English and American
whalers, which neglect most precautions, except cleanliness,
and consume three times as much salt provisions as we do,
are robust and healthy, but they consist of men inured to fa
tigue, which was not the case with my crew.
On the 1st of February, at noon, we descried the coast of
Chili, and at seven o'clock were within two leagues of port
Saint Antonio. We had a pretty strong south wind, and
the fear of the currents induced me to put out to sea, that we
might not be carried to the leeward of Valparaiso, from which
we were only ten leagues distant. However, we did not ob
serve any. current, and the wind suddenly falling to a dead
calm, and being afterwards very unsteady and variable, with a
thick mist, it was not till the 5th that we got in sight of Val
paraiso. At four o'clock, in the afternoon of that day, a vessel,
under Spanish colours, came on board, with the director of the
customs, the port captain, and the pilot. At a quarter past
five, we anchored before Valparaiso, three months and seven
teen days after our departure from the Gironde. Having fired
a salute of twenty-one guns, which the fort returned with
eleven, I landed with the ship's papers, and some letters of
recommendation. Don Jos«S de Vill't^as, captain of a frigate.

8 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
and governor of Valparaiso, received me in a most handsome
manner, not only authorizing me to provide for the wants of
the shipj but also promising to afford me every facility that
depended on him.
On the 6th, the San Sacramento, a large merchantman,
sailed for Lima, with exiles, many of whom were ecclesiastics
and monks. Don Villegas forwarded to Saint Jago a packet,
containing a letter I had written to Don Marco del Ponte, pre
sident and governor-general, who had been prisoner of war in
France, and onefrom M. Blandinyof Bourdeaux, at whose house
this general had lived, during part of the time that he was a
prisoner. I was presented to the principal officers, and the
most distinguished private individuals among the European
Spaniards and Creoles. I had occasion to perceive, in the
course of my visits, that the spirit of revolutions had not for
gotten this country.. The movement which has already changed
part of South America, had extended as far as Chili. After
having raised the standard of independence, this country had
been subdued, in 1814, by General Osorio ; but the revolu
tionary ferment still existed, and the spirit of party, which
excludes moderation, and often justice, still prevailed1 on both
sides. I also remarked, with very different sentiments, that,
notwithstanding the evils which an unjust aggression had
brought upon their country, the Spaniards, far from consider
ing the French as enemies, had resumed towards us those1 sen
timents of good will, which are natural to two nations united
by the tacit, but indestructible bond of common interest.
I was dining with M. de Villegas^ at the house of a mer
chant, when he received a packet, the reading of which sen--
sibly affected him. A corps of troops from Buenos Ayres had
passed the Andes, and obtained some successes, which, with*
out being decisive, greatly alarmed the company, which con
sisted of European Spaniards. They did not dissemble how
much they apprehended that the enemy would be joined by a
great number of mal-contents, hitherto kept down by fear,
but who only waited for a favourable time to throw off, for the
second time, the dominion of the mother country. Mr. Vil
legas, alone, did not participate in the general consternation ;
but all his efforts to inspire confidence, by shewing the great
resources which the government had at its disposal, made
little impression upon men who were already struck witn
terror. Onthe 17th, a Spanish transport arrived at Chili with recruits.
The governor obliged me to deliver to him the muskets which
were onboard the Bordelais; however, I delivered to him
only the half, and I had the strongest assurances from him,

Roquefeuil' s Voyage round the World. 0
that those which he took should be either restored or re
placed, if the resources of the arsenal of Saint Jago permitted
it ; otherwise, they were to be paid for at an advantageous
price, respecting which I would not make any stipulation, that
I might be more at liberty to claim the restitution of them.
Besides the cargo destined for the North- West Coast, the
Bordelais had a considerable assortment of merchandize, suit
able for South America. This secondary, but important,
branch of our operation, was, like the principal, but a trial,
to open new channels for the produce of the French manu
factures. Meantime, the news daily received from the inte
rior, announced the progress of the troops of Buenos Ayres ;
detachments of which, sent to different points, made the
country rise wherever they appeared. These accounts only
increased the uneasiness of the Spaniards, and of the small
number of Creoles attached to them. The passage of the
mountains, by the insurgents, had not been known twenty-
four hours, and they were already preparing for flight. The
officers of the government were the first to embark their pro
perty, with a scandalous haste; their families, and some even of
themselves slept on boards to be prepared at all events. These
movements, added to the reports which were spread of the
progress of "the insurrection, inflamed the heads of some in
different characters among the crew, who had embarked only
in the hope, excited by absurd reports, believed by the rabble
at Bordeaux, that the ship was to cruize as a privateer. The
measures which I had taken, betimes suppressed these danger
ous notions, without my being obliged to act with the severity
with which I had threatened the ill-disposed. While this was
passing, I received, on the 10th, a satisfactory answer from the
captain-general, to my letter of the 5th, but, in the existing
circumstances, I did not think fit to avail myself of the permis
sion he granted me, to repair to San Jago. The joy of the
Creoles, and the despondency of the Spaniards, made me ex
pect no advantage to the latter, in the issue of the contest ; I
therefore wrote to thank the captain-general for his kindness,
and to inform him, that I was preparing to continue my voy
age" : I added, that I expected, with confidence, that the arms
taken from me would be replaced, or their value paid me ; and
in case neither could be done in Chili, I trusted that his excel
lency would send me the necessary papers, to receive the arms
in Peru, or a sufficient indemnity for them.
All was pretty quiet the two next days, and some reports
were spread of advantages gained by the royal troops ; but
this illusion was destroyed in the evening of the 12th, by the
arrival of several fugitives, who brought news of the com-
Voyages and Travels, No. LIV. Vol. IX. C

10 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
plete defeat of the royalists, who, on the 13th, began to arrive
in bodies, mostly without commanders, and without order ;
the officers generally preceding their soldiers. Every one en
deavoured to get on board the ships in the roads, where no
thing was prepared to receive the troops. On the 14th, I sent
Mr. Briole, in the morning, to settle our little account, and, if
possible, procure some fresh provisions ; but that officer found
the city in the most dreadful confusion ; the inhabitants, em
boldened by the terror of those whom they considered as their
oppressors, had seized upon the government and batteries, the
cannon of which were spiked. One of their detachments, of
forty or fifty men, concealed by the angle of the lower battery
of the fort, surprised the fugitives, who, arriving a few at a
time, could not fail to fall into their hands, and were immedi*-
ately taken to prison. In the midst of this confusion, Mr.
Briole could not return without some difficulty, and even dan
ger. Pressed by the disbanded soldiers who assailed the boat,
he was obliged to abandon part of the provisions which be had
procured, and some musket-shots were fired at his boat, which,
however, wounded nobody. On the way, Mr. Briole put on
board a Spanish boat, the few unhappy persons whom he had
been able to put into his own vessel, and returned on board at
seven o'clock. Brigadier Atero sent to me, from on board the
Britannia, where he had taken refuge, to ask for our boats, for
the conveyance of troops. I had already promised them to
Mr. de Villegas, who had come to concert measures with me ;
but the report of Mr. Briole, confirmed by the presence, in
the Roads, of the officers, whose superintendence might have
accelerated the embarkation, by preserving order, made me
conceive, that it would be imprudent to employ our people.
The whole difficulty of the operation arose from the precipita-r
tion and pusillanimity of the fugitives. It might have been
conducted with perfect order and tranquillity, if, instead of
being in a hurry to evacuate all the posts, and to send out the
transports, they had kept possession of the works which com
mand the city, lo hold the inhabitants in awe. The Britannia
alone, which had twenty guns, if properly stationed between
Valparaiso and Almendral, would have removed all apprehen
sions of an attack from the enemy, till his artillery should
arrive. Besides, the victorious troops were still at a distance,
and the Spaniards were harassed only by a small number of
citizens, whose boldness arose from the terror of their enemies.
Having no reason to delay my departure, I sailed at nine
o'clock, and steered for Calloa.
The sudden revolution which took place in Chili, during our
short stay, was, perhaps, less occasioned by the troops of

RoquefeuiFs Voyage round the World. II
Buenos Ayres, than by the spirit of discdn tent which pervaded
all classes, and which broke out as soon as they appeared. A
vanguard, entirely composed of cavalry, crossed the Andes in
the beginning of February, and sent out parties to different
points, where the insurrection immediately broke out. In
order to keep the people in check, the Spaniards sent detach
ments, which arrived too late, or were too Aveak. A corps,
left to guard the defiles, could not stop the passage ofthe main
body of the army of Buenos Ayres, commanded by Don Jose
San Martin, who, including his vanguard, had under him about
four thousand eight hundred men, well equipped, and chiefly
cavalry : this army was accompanied by mules, which the sol
diers mounted in the difficult roads and mountains. Pressed
on all sides, the Spaniards, all whose corps united would have
amounted to nearly the same number, rendered their situation
still worse, by dividing the troops which they had remaining, to
cover the capital. Twelve hundred men, with some pieces of
cannon, stationed at Chacabuco, twelve leagues beyond St.
Jago, were attacked, on the 12th, by San Martin, at the head
Of his principal forces, and entirely defeated, after five hours
most obstinate resistance. The battalion of the regiment of
Talavera, which had the greatest share in the success of Ge
neral Osorio, perished entirely, . with the exception of five
officers and eighteen soldiers , The loss of the insurgents was
also very considerable. The Spanish troops, who, to the num
ber of a thousand men, at length marched from St. Jago, with
the artillery, commanded by the captain-general in person, to
reinforce those who were engaged with the enemy, learnt,
from the fugitives, the news of the disaster, at some leagues
distance from the field of battle. This only inflamed the
ardour of the soldiers, who loudly demanded to march against
the enemy. Instead of taking advantage of their enthusiasm,
the time was lost in deliberating. The loss just sustained, and
the recent insurrection of several towns in the interior, induced
the general to retreat. This measure had a fatal influence on
the minds of the soldiers : the fugitives, who would have ral
lied behind the troops, if they had found them marching for
wards, communicated their own fears to them, and drew them
along in the rout, the consequences of which were complete
and decisive. St. Jago was evacuated with the greatest pre
cipitation ; and the crowd of fugitives hastened to Valparaiso,
Where they caused that confusion, which prevailed at the em
barkation. .
When the transports, loaded with these melancholy remains,
left Valparaiso, the fate of the captain- general was not known.
It was not till the next month that it was known in Peru, that

12 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
he had been taken prisoner, in attempting to reach Port St..
Antonio, where he hoped to find means of escaping. Qf his,
whole government, nothing remained to Spain of all the con-.
tinent, except Baldivia, and the peninsula of Talcaguana, near
Conception. The isle of Chiloe remained faithful.
Our passage from Valparaiso to Callao was not distinguished
by any thing remarkable, except the facility with which it was
effected, till we made the coast of Peru. On the 26th, at ten
o'clock in the morning, we descried the isle of St. Lorenzo,,
which closes the bay of Callao to the west. At two o'clock,
a canoe, with two Indians on board, came to us, and sold us
some fine fish, at a moderate price.
After having taken the opinion of the two Oydors, whom I
had brought from Chili, I permitted one of our passengers to,
go on shore in this boat, upon the express condition, that he
should observe the most profound secresy with respect to the,
affairs of Chili. r
Like almost the whole coast of Peru, this part is generally
arid, and with no vegetation or culture, but at great inter
vals. It is in these Oases the beautiful appearance of which
indicates great fertility, that the habitations are situated. Two
leagues to the south of the port, a boat came out to inquire
who we were, and the state of the crew's health. The Spa
nish passengers embarked, with their effects, on board this boat.
I delivered to Mr. Pereyra, a letter for the Viceroy, in which,
after having stated the reasons which induced me to go to Lima,
I asked his protection, and permission to pay my respects to
him at his residence. Don Fernando Camunez, captain of the
port, came on board with Don Primo Ribera, lieutenant-colo
nel of the regiment of the Infant Don Carlos. The latter had
just been detached to Caflaof with a battalion of his regiment,
to prevent the movements which the news brought might
excite among the prisoners at Fort Real Felipe, and awe the
discontented by a display of force. This was a consequence
of the indiscretion of our passenger, who, notwithstanding
the most solemn promises, had proclaimed the revolution in
Chili. The lieutenant spoke French with facility, having been long
a prisoner of war. The good treatment which he had received
in France, had inspired him with esteem for our nation, which
he took pleasure in showing.
The next day, I went early to visit the port-captain, who
introduced me to Don Antonio Baraco, captain of the navy.
I was received in the most affable manner by this officer, who
had served in the combined army during the American war,
and had been acquainted with several officers of the French

RoquefmiVs Voyage round the World. 13
navy. He did me the honor to come on board, accompanied
with a numerous suite.
* In the evening, the Santo Sacramento and the Santo Christo
arrived from Valparaiso. The distress that had been expe
rienced by the latter, which was crowded with fugitives, excited
compassion and alarm for the unfortunate persons crowded
together in the other transports, which were equally destitute,
and were exposed for a longer time.
The viceroy returned a favourable answer to my letter, and
gave me an invitation to Lima.
On the 1st of March, I set out for Lima, with one of my
passengers, in a cabriolet of the country, drawn by two horses,
and driven by a postillion. From Callao to the city of Lima,
which is full two leagues distant, there is a causeway, almost
in a straight line, which is nowhere more than three feet above
the level of the ground.
On going from Callao, you see to the right the village of
Bellavista, and shortly after, on the left, a large plot of reeds,
which is a retreat for robbers. On the same side, at a place
called Legue, half way to Lima, there is a small church, and
a public house,. both objects of regard to the postillions, who
never fail to make the sign of the cross before the one, and to
stop at the second to drink some brandy. The Capuchins, to
whom the church belongs, take advantage of the halt of tra
vellers, to come and ask their charity, in the name of nuestra
Senora de la Legua. So far, there is scarcely any trace of
cultivation, but after having passed La Legua, the road is bor
dered with trees, which, a mile further, form, on each side of
the road, ajerdant avenue. Two miles from Lima, the road,
as far as the gate, forms a beautiful avenue, and promenades,
furnished with benches : two small canals maintain an agree
able coolness, and fertilize gardens, the beauty of which is less
due to art than to nature. This avenue is interrupted by se
veral circular places. It ends at the Callao gate, which, not
withstanding the defects of its architecture, has a striking
appearance, from its solidity, and agrees well with the rest of
the picture. The interior of the city forms a disagreeable con
trast with the exterior. On entering the gate, you have before
you a square, or, rather, a large vacant place, covered with black
dust, a foot deep, and surrounded by clay walls, belonging to
stables, and abandoned inclosures, where they deposit filth,
which rises, in a heap, above these wretched constructions.
This place is a rectangle, four or five hundred paces in length.
Its appearance indicates rather a ruined village, than the en
trance to an opulent capital. The houses are at the other ex
tremity. The streets, which are long, straight, and cross each

J*

14 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
otherat right angles, have a pleasing effect from their regularity.
which is counteracted by their want of cleanliness and the
monotonous exterior of the houses, which have but few win
dows to be seen*
I went to the house of Don Martinez Teron, a friend of
Mr. Pereyra, who, with his family, received me in the kindest
manner. In the evening I went with Mr. Pereyra to pay rpy respects?
to the viceroy, who gave me the most flattering reception, and
thanked me for the manner in which I had behaved to the two*
Oydors and the other subjects of his Catholic Majesty, whom
I had received on board. His Excellency conversed with me
upon the news from Europe, and especially from Chili, which '
country he intended to re-conquer as soon as he should have
received from Spain the re-inforcements which he expected..
He invited me to dine with him the next day.
Mr. Pereyra also introduced me to the Archbishop Don B.
M. de Las Heras, a venerable and most pious prelate, to Don
Torribio Aubal, secretary-general, and many other persons of
distinction. The next day I paid several visits, among others to the Com
mandant of the Marine, and to Don Fedro Abadia, agent to
the Philippine company, who by his place and personal credit
had great influence upon foreign commerce. I then went to
the palace, where I was presented to the vice-queen. At din
ner the conversation turned upon the affairs of Chili. Among
the guests was General Mariano Osorio who had subdued
that country in 1814, and had been Captain-General till th©
arrival of his successor, whom the ministry at Madrid had
appointed. The good offices of Messieurs Pereyra and Caspe having al
ready inclined him to favour me, the Viceroy listened kindly
to my request, to be allowed to dispose of part of the cargo1
suitable for the consumption of the country, on condition
of converting the produce of the sale into merchandize of
Peru. This favour, which had never before been granted to any?
vessel which had come without license from . the Spanish*
ministry, seemed to insure the accomplishment of the hopest
which Mr. Abadia had inspired me with. But several circum
stances concurred to disappoint my expectations. The arrival
of an American vessel in only ninety-three days., with three
hundred tons of European merchandize, the importation of
which was secured by a license from Madrid ; the approach-'
ing arrival of several Spaniards, announced by a vessel from
Jamaica ; and lastly, the effect of the bad news which we had
brought, caused a progressive decline, and I was obliged to

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 15
'accept terms, the advantages of which were absorbed by
expenses, charges, and enormous duties.
By means of the papers with which I was provided I easily
got the government to recognize the justice of my claims, on
account of the arms whichl had been obliged to give up at Val
paraiso. Unhappily the arsenal was too ill provided to replace
them, and I could only obtain thirty muskets ; the remainder
was paid for upon a liberal estimate made on view of those
which we still had. As the payment of our goods was not to
be made till the expiration of two months, according to the
invariable custom of Lima, I thought of employing the ship
to advantage on some voyage which might be made in that
time. After much consideration I thought to go and purchase
corn on the coast to the north of Callao, which being very pro
ductive, cargoes of wheat and rice might be obtained in the
ports of Saint Pedro and Trusillo, at 40 per cent, below the
price at Lima, but I was obliged to give up this plan because the
chamber of commerce strongly opposed granting such a favour
of commerce to a foreigner. It is as extraordinary as certain
that a branch, which would be so advantageous to the capital and
to the provinces, was yet to be created, and did not employ a
single coasting vessel. This shews the imperfect state of naviga>-
tion and commercial intercourse between the several ports
of Peru, and of the blind jealousy of the commerce of Lima
towards strangers. I obtained from the equity of the Viceroy
liberty to export the money which I had received in payment
for the arms. Being obliged to convert into goods the produce
of the sale, I laid it out chiefly in copper, which is almost the
only article fit to take to China, where it generally meets with
a ready and advantageous sale. I took also some articles of
exchange for California and the north-west coast of America.
The greater part consisted of provisions, which if they could
not be disposed of in the way of trade, would be a resource
for the crew in the course of the voyage, which I foresaw
would extend beyond the time fixed in France, and the means
with which we were supplied.
As I had learned from the reports of the whalers, and a
journal qf Captain Porter, of the American frigate Essex, that
sandal wood, which is much esteemed in China, might be
obtained in the Marquesas Islands, I procured a certain
quantity of whale teeth, which are much sought for by the
natives of that archipelago, which I determined to visit during
the bad season, if I could not employ my time better.
During the time I was necessarily detained at Lima, I endea
voured to acquire some knowledge of the country and the in
habitants, and made some excursions in the neighbourhood.

16 Roquef&uil's Voyage round the World.
On theythl visited the suburb of Malumbo,; on the left of
the river Rimac, which communicates with the town by a
bridge of the same name ; it is of hewn stone, and though* old
does not seem to have suffered by earthquakes. The bed of
the river is of an irregular breadth; it fills only one part Of
it, dividing into several branches which form a great number
of stony islets, some of which are covered with verdure. This
defect, adding to the nakedness of the left bank, renders the
view of the river, near Malumbo, disagreeable. The river on
this side forms a pleasing contrast with the other: above the
suburb it is bordered by immense avenues of gigantic orange-
trees, forming promenades, which only want a little care to
make them all that can be wished. In this part the bank is
lined with masonry, to hinder the river from undermining the
soil at the time of the high water, caused by the melting ' of
the snow.*
On the 8th the American ship, Sidney, anchored at Cal
lao. She had come in only ninety-three days from Baltimore.
On the 11th I went to Callao with Mr. Espinosa, a merchant.
Having learned on board that a whaler had some barrels of
biscuits to spare, I procured some in exchange for brandy.
"There was at that time an immense concourse of strangers in
Callao, composed of emigrants from Chili, and inhabitants of
Lima, besides those who were there on our arrival for the
purpose of sea-bathing. In this season many rich families of
the capital come and reside in this port ; though the want of
every ordinary convenience makes it insupportable to men like
us accustomed to European comforts.
The environs, which are destitute of shade and almost of
verdure, do not offer any kind of compensation except the sea
baths, for which it is indebted to nature ; Callao has nothing
to attract its numerous visitors, but there is a freedom of
social intercourse which forms a contrast with the mode of
life at Lima. The women, who in that city never appear
abroad otherwise than enveloped in the saya and the man
ta, here go abroad in the European fashion and in hats, a
dress which very much becomes them. They have frequent
assemblies, in which the etiquette of the capital gives way" to.
pleasure. i
I returned to Lima on the 12th with Mr. Espinosa, who con
firmed what I had already heard of the robbers and their well
known retreat, where they are never disturbed ; consequently,
no one travels during the night. But a few years agoseveral
carriages having ventured to set out from Callao an hour ^after
sunset, were stopped and plundered, though they went together.
I returned to Callao on the 14th.

Roquefetiit's Voyage round the World. \ff
On the 24th I received an invitation from General Osorio to
visit the arsenal. It is situated near the ramparts of the city
on the south side. It contains a manufactory of arms and a
foundry, where they cast cannon of the caliber of twenty-four
pounders. This establishment seemed to be kept in good
order: the extraordinary demand upon it during the intestine
war, had stripped it of arms of all kinds. The general assured
me that the muskets made there cost seventy piastres a piece.
General Osorio was fond of his profession ; he had a military
library, chiefly composed of the works of our authors. He
had the confidence of his troops, and appeared to enjoy the
favour of the Viceroy.*
Chrthe 27th the Veloz Passagera corvette, and the Vezuela
brig, having under their convoy three transports with troops
and ammunition,* sailed for Talcaguana. This post had al
ready served General Osorio as a place of arms in 1814, and
was, with Valdivia, all that the Spaniards had left in Chili.
The Flying Fish, Captain- Fitch, an American vessel fitted
out for the seal fishery, left the port to continue its voyage.
He was going to visit several detachments that he had left on
different parts of the coast and adjacent isles, to collect the
produce of their fishery, to take away his people from the
places already exhausted, and to leave detachments in other
stations. This branch of maritime industry, besides the expense
of the ship and the provisions, requires only instruments of
little value, without expense for the crew, because each in
dividual has a share. It has been a source of riches to many
English and American ship owners. Within these last thirty
years the latter in particular have been extremely active and
successful iu this fishery, as well as that of sea lions, the blub
ber and teeth of which are highly valued. Hence these species
are greatly diminished in number., The seals in particular are
not numerous, except in places lately discovered. Sometimes
the finding of a rock makes the fortune of the happy dis
coverer. Such is the spirit of enterprize and the activity of
these mariners, who are inured to danger and fatigue, that
an American has been known to leave a detachment of his
crew at the Falkland Islands, to double Cape Horn, ascend to
the north, leave a second detachment on the rocks before St.
Francisco, in California, 25*00 leagues from the other, then
repass the Cape with some men, collect his detachments
on both coasts and purchase jn China with the produce of
their fishery, a cargo for the United States. Several captains
* After the disasters of the second expedition to Chili in 1818, General Osorio
set out for Spain, but died of the yellow fever at the Havannah.
Voyages and Trails, No. LIV. Vol. IX. D

18 Roquefeuil's Voyage round tlie World.
of whalers have also made these voyage". I observed on board
the vessels, of both these nations, employed in the different
expeditions, activity, order, and economy, and the double ta
lent of turning every thing to account, and of supplying the
want of every thing. The skill of their carpenters also at
tracted my attention.
In the evening of the 30th, which was Palm-Sunday, the
procession of the boriquito (or ass) was celebrated ; this is a
grotesque and ridiculous ceremony, unworthy of the Castilian
gravity, and especially of the dignity of our religion: it attracted,
as may be expected, an immense concourse of people, both
from the city and its environs. Returning from Callao in the
evening, I found the road crowded'with a cavalcade of negroes,
and people of colour riding full gallop and uttering cries of
joy. The eagerness of this multitude, the singularity of 'theft-
dresses, and the harness of the horses, formed a picturesque
scene which was obscured by a cloud of dust. Many women,
who were equally intrepid with the men, took part in this
procession. On Easter-Eve the public joy began to show itself, a multi
tude of persons of all ranks filled the squares and principal
streets of Lima. The great square in particular, was filled,
with Spaniards, Peruvians, mulattos, and negroes. The tents,
booths, and tables, which had been set out, were occupied till
a late hour, chiefly by the lowest classes ofthe people. I was
surprised at the silence which prevailed on this occasion, for
except the explosion of a few crackers, our villagef easts would
have been much more noisy. Now and then I heard some
monotononous songs, and cries proceeding from negro slaves!"
The Spaniards who, in Europe, are remarkable for their
sobriety, have not communicated this virtue to the races sub
dued, or carried by them to the New World ; on the contrary,
the posterity of the conquerors, whom fortune has confounded
in the mass of the population, are no less intemperate than
the Indians ; there are, even women who are not exempt
fronl this vice, which is so odious in their sex. In the emo
tion excited by strong liquors, they passionately indulge in
lascivious dances, till, their strength being exhausted, they fall
from a state of intoxication into that of insensibility,1 which
is no less disgusting.
The festival of Easter was celebrated with much pomp, and
the public diversions, suspended during Lent, were resumed.
In the evening, the theatre was opened. I cannot say much in
favour of the performance, or of the performers. The inside
of the theatre is neatly fitted up, and would look pretty if it
were better lighted ; except the box of the viceroy, and some

Roquefeuil'js Voyage round-the World. 19
others, the whole resembles our theatres of the second rank,
"Phe behaviour of the audience of Lima might serve as a model
to those of many other places. They have, however, one eus-
topi, which is very repugnant to our notions; as soon as the
curtain is let down, the noise of flint and steel is heard on all
sides, and. every mouth, even -the most delicate, is furnished
with a segar, and the theatre is filled with a cloud of smoke^
so that you cannot see from one side to the other.
On the 21st, the first bull-fight put the whole city in com
motion. I calculated that the -amphitheatre might contain
about 10,000 persons. Cock-fighting is also much in vogue
at, Lima.
I made an excursion on horseback, with several persons, to
the village of Miraflores, situated near the sea, aboutthree leagues
to the south of Lima. The road is covered with the finest
dust, which is extremely inconvenient. The ground, as in the
whole country, is level from the coast to the foot of the moun
tains, the parallel chain of which seldom extends its branches
to the sea. The soil is so fertile that the slightest cultivation
makes it produce with the luxuriance peculiar to the equinoc
tial regions. There is a rich plantation of olives, the oil of
which is esteemed to be nearly equal to that of Spain. In
the neighbourhood of the city there are many ruins, of the
times of the ancient Peruvians : their extent and elevation
Sufficiently prove the greatness of that nation, and most of
them still retain an air of magnificence. Two or three appear
to have belonged to aqueducts. It is well known that those
people had the art of conducting water from the mountains to
great distances ; and that, by means of this system of irriga
tion, agriculture was carried among them to niuch higher per
fection than it is now in the same country.
Several parts of the coast are strewed with ruins ; the most
remarkable are situated opposite to the little islands, called
Pachacumacs. In this part, for which the Indians had a super*-
stitious veneration, are the remains of a vast temple, dedicated
to the sun. All these buildings',- as well as the more modern
ones, are of unburnt bricks. These frail edifices, which,
under another climate, would have been destroyed by the in
clemency of the seasons, still cover Peru, after the lapse of
many ages, and attest, at once, the singular mildness of the
climate, and the industry of its ancient inhabitants.
'There are many good-looking houses at Miraflores, but as
most of {:hem belong to inhabitants of the capital, several df
them were not inhabited, which gave the village a deserted
appearance :. the gardens, which, however, I only saw as I
passed, appeared to me much inferior to their reputation

20 Roquefeuit's Voyage round the Wordd.
The. coastj which is about half a league distant, is steep, and
about 150 feet, high. From this high coast is an extensive
view over the sea, whose calm, surface blends with- the distant
horizon ; . to the right and left, a bold and steep coast, forming
an immense crescent ; the Moro Solar, isle Saint Lorenzo, the
rocks of Palominos, and the pretty village of Lurin, were the
most striking objects in this fine picture, which the sun just
then illumined with its last rays. The impression caused by
the sight of a grand prospect, the splendour of the Peruvian
Sun,the ruins of the temples, all contributed to call to mind
a mild and unfortunate people, who formerly came to behold,
from this coast, with profound feelings of religion, the immer
sion of the sun into the ocean.
The Zephir, an English whaler, arrived at Callao on the
10th of May. It had lost, near Pisco, its captain and three
men, who were killed by a whale, which dashed their boat to
pieces. This vessel announced the appearance of insurgent
privateers, but this report, as well as several others of the same
sort, during our stay, was not confirmed.
While we were at Lima, two Russian ships, the Kutusoff
and the Suwaroff, belonging to the American company, ar
rived at Callao. I had the good fortune to become acquainted
with captain Hagemeister, who commanded them. This. dis
tinguished officer shewed a sincere desire to serve me. To
the information which he gave me respecting the north-west
coast, and, in particular, the settlements of his nation, he
added a letter to Mr. Baranoff, the governor, in case he him
self should not be there. What he told me of those countries
led me to expect but little, success in that quarter, on account
of the bad selection of our goods intended for exchange,, but
this was the principal object of our expedition, from which I
was not at liberty to depart.
Having, at length, settled all my affairs at the custom- house,
so that I could continue my voyage, I paid my visits, to take
leave of the persons from whom I had received so many civir
lities. Being obliged to leave one of my men at the hospital,
I placed in the hands of the superintendent, the sum required
for every patient who is left there. This man, unfortunately,
had both his hands mutilated, when discharging a cannon, at
an entertainment which. I gave on board the ship, to several of
our Spanish friends. Besides being deprived of this man,
five others had deserted, and our officer, Mr. Salis, being in an
ill state of health, I had consented that he should remain
behind ; he was to return to Bourdeaux on board an English
ship. I gave him letters to Mr. Balguerie, to jny family, and
some friends, besides some from the officers, and several of the

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 21
crew,. As soon as he had left us, which was about nine o'clock
in the morning, of the 29th of May, we set sail.
Before we quit the coast of Peru, I will communicate some
remarks on the country in general, and on the capital in parti
cular. Peru would offer an immense market to our commerce, if it
were free ; but, even as we found it, in 1817, the consumption
of our manufactures was considerable. Those which are most
saleable, and profitable, are silks, linen, cloth, wine, and fash
ionable articles. The exports, are, cocoa, copper, Peruvian
bark, common and Vigonia wools, and Chinchilla skins. Co
chineal might become an important article of commerce, if
attention were paid to it, but when we were at Lima there
was not a pound in the market.
.¦Spain was far from deriving from Peru all the commercial
advantages which so rich a colony might have procured it.
The productions of the mother countiy imported into this
country were, wine, oils, some kinds of silk, and other arti
cles of less consequenc. The remainder of the cargoes was
derived from foreign countries.
The population of the city of Lima and its environs is eighty
thousand souls, of which I do not think that the European
Spaniards are above a twentieth part ; the number of white
Creoles is much more considerable ; that of the African slaves
may be equal to both the others ; they are generally treated
with mildness : the situation of those in the countiy is more
unfortunate, as I have been assured. The remainder of the
inhabitants is composed of people of colour of all shades, a
nixture of Spanish, African, and Peruvian races.
.The hatred which the Creoles shewed against the Spaniards
so far back as the time of Freziei^ has increased with the
progress of the population. The events which followed the
invasion of Spain by Napoleon, the steps taken by the Cortes,
and the system of the present government, have given a new
impulse to this sentiment, which is almost general among the
Creoles. The example of the provinces of the La Plata, and the
late events in Chili, have increased their desire for indepen
dence and the hope of gratifying it. To judge by the happy
condition of the people of Lima, which I was assured the
provinces enjoy in an equal degree, this restlessness of mind
cannot be, in the multitude, any thing more than the effect of
that desire of innovation (other* call it melioration) which
has spread over the world during these last thirty years ; arid
of the insinuations of the higher classes, whose self-love and
ambition are offended by the preference which the government
shews to Europeans, though it sometimes confides important

22 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
offices to Creoles. M^n to whom -fortune, travels, and some
knowledge not common among their countrymen, give a
degree of superiority, fancy themselves equal to the manage
ment of the most important affairs, are angry at not being
called to the administration of their country, and employ every
means to hasten the change which will put an end to their
obscurity, by establishing their independence. It is to be
feared that it would for a long time be a fatal present to a
countiy, where the rights and the duties of the citizen are
generally unknown ; where superstition and effeminacy,
enemies to patriotism, prevent public spirit from expanding,
and where the puerile love of distinction and the lust of "power
would be most frequently combined with inability to use it for
the public good. The circumstances of the times would pro
bably cause a republican government to be erected, and the
manners are monarchical.
Among the principal establishments at Lima are the folloW-
The University of Saint Mark, founded by Charles V., in
1553. The Orphan School, founded in 1654, which has been much
improved since its first establishment.
The churches, whieh are numerous, are decorated with a
degree of solendour, which can be only attributed to the abun
dance of the precious metals in Peru. Gold and silver are
the principal ornaments, and jewels heighten the splendour of
these holy edifices.
Unhappily at Lima, as elsewhere, the progress of civilization
is accompanied by extravagance and luxury, and their danger
ous consequences. <
The women are very expensive in their dress, and have a
particular taste for pearls, the whiteness of which fornls an
agreeable contrast with the deep carnation of their complexion,
and the brilliant black of their hair. The Peruvian women are,
in general, handsome or pretty ; but these advantages lo$e their
charms by a licentiousness, of which there are few examples
among other civilized nations ; a well-educated man cannot
hear their common conversation without blushing. Thev are
very proud of handsome arms and small feet: with this view,
the girls are accustomed, from the tenderest aee, to wear
very tight shoes. They prefer dancing to all other amuse
ments. Luxury, at Lima, extends only to the toilette : for
the houses, the outsides of which are agreeable,, shew in the
inside neither taste nor splendour. The extreme love of shew
whieh animates the women, and frorn which even the men are
not exempt, might have fatal consequences if families did not

ItoquefeuiVs Voyage round the World. 23
find in commerce, means to meet the excessive expense whicli
vanity occasions. The merchant is so much esteemed at Lima,
that the nobles engage in commerce without thinking it any
disgrace to their rank ; this is not the least remarkable trait in
the character of the Peruvians.
When we set sail from Callao I steered N. N. W. passed
near the. rocks, called by the Spaniards Formigas and Firello-
nes, and,, passed the Galapagos Islands, which I intended to
double on the south, and to crossv their latitude at a great dis
tance to the west, so as not to fear the calms, which at this
season are frequent in this Archipelago, and. to the east of it
as far as the coast of Peru. On the 8th, at one o'clock in the
afternoon, we descried the south side of Albemarle Island, but
we did not touch at any of these islands. From the Galapagos
I steered N.W. £ W. with the intention of keeping beyond the
extreme limits ofthe W. and N.W. winds, which in this season,
called winter, prevail on the coast of Mexico. Mr. Von Hum
boldt, who has visited these seas, assures us that they are not
perceived above 150 leagues from the shore. Rome confines them
within a zone of seventy leagues. One of the best pilots at
Lima, who had made the voyage from Peru to California, had
told me that it was proper to come in sight of Socoro, and
thence ascend the coast. After such authorities I could not
fear being hindered by these winds while I held a course which
was generally more than 200 leagues from land, and did not
approach it within .150 leagues, except at one point. Yet the
Winds turned to the W. and N.W. in 6° north latitude and 100°
west longitude ; when I was above 200 leagues from the coast
of Guatimala.
My, hopes of a fine passage to the coast of California were
wholly disappointed ; we had contrary and variable winds dur
ing the whole of July, the currents took us out of our course,
and nothing occurred to break the monotony of this tiresome
voyage. We did not see twenty birds during the whole month,
and Still fewer fish ; whole weeks passed without seeing a liv
ing creature, so that we might have fancied ourselves alone iu
the creation. The appearance of a flying fish was an extraor
dinary occurrence. The month of August did not begin with
better auspices ; however, on the 3d we had some indications
of the neighbourhood of land, and on the 5th, at two o'clock
in the afternoon, we descried the coast of California. At five
o'clock we perceived the port of St. Francisco, and soon after
the fort, on the south east point of the entrance ; we hoisted
our colours and fired a gun, the fort did the same, hoisting
the Spanish colours. The vessel entered rapidly with the
tide ; at six o'clock we passed under the fort; the officer had-

24 RoquefeuiVs' Voyage round the World.
ed'the ship, and we answered that she- came from Lima. We
run into this basin, proceeding to the bay of Hyerba-Buena,
where Vancouver first anchored. Just as we dropped anchor
the ship touched the bottom, but without the slighest shock,
as the ground was soft, and the next tide set us afloat again.
Two Officers who had hailed us on the coast came on board
in the boat, their names were Don Gabriel Moriaga, (sub-lieu
tenant of cavalry, governor par interim of the Presidio,) and
Don Manuel Gomez, lieutenant of artillery. These gentlemen
were equally pleased and astonished to see us. No French
vessel had ever before entered their port. They remained
about an hour on board, partook of a little collation, and con
versed with us in the most cordial manner. They did not
appear to trouble themselves about politics, and had no know
ledge of what was passing in Chili. They told us that Mexico-
was almost entirely pacified; I learnt that there were but few
furs in the countiy, an American, who left Monterey a fort
night before, having taken away the whole stock. Don Gabriel
obligingly granted me permission to provide myself with the
articles which I Was in need of, and invited me to the Presidio,
The next day he sent horses for me and the surgeon. We
rode four or five miles through a very uneven country, the*
horses gallopping all the way, and entered the Presidio through
the principal gate, Where there is a. guard.' We alighted at
the house of Don Gabriel, who, as well as his wife, received
us with great politeness. Don Gabriel advised me to come
and anchor at the Prefeidio, which I declined doing till I had
seen the watering place ; Don Manuel offered to accompany
ine to it. I found it inconvenient because it is some distance
from the sea. Returning to Don Gabriel I met the father
Ramon Abello, superior of the mission, whom I intended to
visit. He congratulated me on my happy arrival, offered me
whatever his mission could afford, and said 'that he should be
happy to see me there.
The road from the Presidio to the mission is over sand-hills,
which produce only a coarse vegetation, ferns, stunted trees,
pines, oaks, hollies, &c. This part was still more arid than
the neighbourhood of our anchoring place. The mission is
situated in an irregular valley between the hills on the north,
and a small arm of the sea on the south. The soil seems much
morefertile than at the Presidio, and thetem perature is sensibly
milder. The church is kept in good order, and handsomely
decorated ; the sacred utensils and the pictures are the work
of Mexican artists, and exceed in richness and taste, what is
generally seen of this kind in most of the towns of the second
and third rank in France and Germany : it may contain from

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 25
5 to 600 persons. There is not a single seat in it : the whole
does credit to the piety and taste of the fathers : the Magazines
well stored with corn, pease, Scathe looms, in which cloth for
the habits of the Indians is woven, and the work-rooms, though
not what might be desired, shew the industry and activity of
these worthy men.
On going to pay another visit to the Presidio I met on the
way Don Louis Arguello, the governor, who used me very
kindly, and promised to contribute all in his power to fulfil the
object of my visit : I had some conversation with him on the
interior of California and the Indians who inhabit it. He had
aspended the San Sacramento to about fifty leagues from its
mouth, and assured me that he had always found from seven to
eight fathoms water. The breadth of this river is very unequal,
being two or three miles in some places, and not more than
as many cables^ lengths in others. In the rainy season it often
overflows and covers the low country, on both sides, to the
distance of three or four leagues from its mouth. This part,
which is marshy and full of lagoons, is inhabited by Indians,
who subsist upon fish. The interior is extremely fertile, the
vine grows spontaneously, and though the grape is of inferior
quality, for want of cultivation, Don Louis thought that brandy -
might be obtained from it. Maize hardly requires any atten
tion; The savages, notwithstanding the inferiority of their
arms, resist the parties which the Spaniards send at. long in
tervals. If they are informed of their approach they abandon
the villages, which are almost always found deserted, or oc
cupied only by a few old people, who have not strength to fly.
They lie in ambush and endeavour to surprize their enemy.
In these incursions, the object of which generally is to look
for natives who have deserted from the missions,, it is very
seldom that the Spaniards lose anybody, their jackets of buf
falo's hide being a sufficient defence againt the arrows of the
savages. After the accounts of La Peyrouse and Vancouver, and the
complaints which the officers themselves made about the ab -
solute want of workmen, I was surprised at seeing, in their
houses, tables and benches of pretty good workmanship. On
inquiring whence they obtained this furniture, Don Louis told
me that they were the work of one of the Kodiaks, who had
been taken prisoner while hunting the otter. Thus in an estab
lishment formed forty years ago by Spain, a savage from the
Russian possessions was the most skilful workman. I obtain
ed some information respecting the singular incursion made
by the Kodiaks, in the years 1809, 1810, and 1811. These in
trepid fishermen came from Bodega, (where, as the Spaniards
Voyages and Travels, No, LIV. Vol. IX. E

26 RoqvftfeuiVs Voyage round the World.
say, the Russians have several hundred of them), in division^
of thirty or forty boats, each with two men. They entered.
keeping along the north coast of the inlet; when they hag
once got in they were masters /of this gulf, in which the
Spaniards had not a single boat. The otters, which till then
had nothing to fear but the attacks of the Indians of the coun-*
try, were now pursued by the most intrepid and experienced
enemy ; it was estimated that about 8000 were destroyed ia
the three years that they repeated theirincursions. The con
fidence with/ which the Kodiaks were inspired by the Spaniards
having no boats, having made them imprudent, some of them
were surprised upon the coast, where they went tp, refresh
themselves, while the islands offered them a secure, retreat
against the Spanish horsemen. At length, upon the represen
tation of Don Louis, some boats were built. They are four in
number, manned with Indians, and so heavy and ill equipped
that, I have no doubt, the Kodiaks might continue their fishery
with success if the. present governor of the Russian establish
ment thought proper.
On the 10th, with most Of the officers of the crew, I attend
ed divine service at the Presidio, which was performed in, a
great hall, till the church, which had been burnt, should be
rebuilt j this chapel, which Was White washed and neatly kept,
had an altar in pretty good taste, some pictures, and benches
on the' sides*- Besides ourselves there were present about for
ty meny almost, all military, and about a hundred women arid
children,- alLneatly dressed, and behaving with much decorum-
After the service two children sung in a correct and agreeable
manner,an invocation, each verse of which Was repeated in chorus
by the congregation. Father Ramon, who had officiated, in
vited us, as well as Don, Louis, to dine at the mission. The
repast, whieh was neatly served up, was composed, of a small
number of plain and substantial dishes, well dressjSd in the
Spanish manner. The bread, meat, and vegetables "yfst&'fya
produce, of the mission, and of good quality. The conversa
tion turned chiefly on the terrible decrease' of the native race
in the missions of the two Californias,* They agreed that it
was almost entirely extinct in old California; and for this
reason the, number of the missions was reduced from seven
to. two ; it was also confessed that in the new province, which
is more fertile, and was always more populous, there Was not
a single mission, where the births were equal to the deaths. ,
On the 12th we completed pur store of wood and waterJ
and delivered the articles which I was toleave'in the country."
The difficulty of disposing elsewhere of several of our goods,
and the facility of obtaining provisions here, made me deter-

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 2J
f*nine to come back ; and we were to receive at Our next visit,
fine payment of the balance which would be due to us above
the price of provisions furnished, and the otter skins which
had been delivered to us. Don Louis and Father Ramon pro
mised to reserve for me all the furs which they should be able
to obtain.
Having taken leave of our kind friends, we set sail at five
o'clock on the morning of the 14th of August ; and, having
met with nothing particular, eame in sight of the coast of
America, a few leagues to the west of the entrance of Nootka,
on the 1st of September, at four o'clock in the morning.
The following morning we saw several boats ; two of them
With seven Indians came along side, but were afraid to come
on board. They told us that Macouina was still alive, and
pressed us to enter, assuring us that we should find a great
number of otter skins : one of the boats had two, which we
obtained. In the afternoon the freeze, though faint, gave me hopes of
entering ; for this purpose I spread all the sail, keeping three
miles from the coast, on account of the shoals marked upon
the charts ; we saw none of them, only some breakers on the
shore, At three o'clock the wind freshened and brought up a
thick' fog which covered the coast ; as I cOuld not venture into
the entrance under such circumstances, I cast anchor on the
north side of Point Breakers. The fog continuing with calms,
or unfavourable wind, it was not till the 5th that we were able
to get into the entrance, which itis rather difficult to discover.
The scattered trees on the west point are the best guides, their
small number in this part contrasting with the thicket on the
other side.
¦ .'.' At five o'clock we ran into the entrance, and, as soon as we
were in, the wind, which was already faint, entirely died away,
and it was only by the help of the boats that we got into
I^encily Cove, where we anchored at half past six, in ten
fajtaorns water. In the night the officers kept watch, as at
'.. sea, the boarding nets were fixed, the guns loaded, and part
of the arms placed on deck.
' Oh the 6th, we got out several articles that we thought the
!«iost proper to exchange with the natives : they came in great
numbers, and remained a good while in their boats, alongside.
Our, traffic began by the acquisition of four pretty fine otter-
iSkiris ; we procured, also, a quantity of very fine salmon, and
jsome other fish. The advanced season had caused the village
to be almost deserted ; the great chief, Macouina, as well as
the majority of the population, were at Taehes, his winter
residence. On the 7th, Macouina came from Tachfcs, and re~

28 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
mained some time alongside in a small boat, full of salmon :
there was no ceremony that announced the presence of their
chief, but the natives having pointed him out to me, I invited
him to come on board ; he got on deck with great activity, for
his age, and immediately gave me his hand, with a mixture of
confidence and dignity. I received him as well as I was able ;
I offered him a collation, to which he did honour, and a present,
which he accepted with no less satisfaction : notwithstanding
his incognito, he was saluted with seven guns, an honour which.
flattered him greatly, though it made him stop his ears.
Macouina, on his arrival, had made me a present of the
salmon in his boat ; after having received my present, he gave
me three small otter skinsj which I likewise accepted as a
present, but he immediately asked for the payment. He left
me at three o'clock, with many protestations of friendship,
and promised soon to return. An inferior chief, named Noak,
with whom we had already become acquainted, participated
in our liberality, on account of his usefulness as an inter
preter. Soon after the departure of Macouina, a boat came from
Clayoquot, a district in the dominion of Wicananich, a pow
erful chief, of whom Vancouver speaks. The Indians on
board wore white blankets, or cloaks of blue cloth ; they had
three or four guns, in good condition, and appeared superior
in activity, strength, and understanding to those of Nootka ;
they were besides more cleanly. We understood that they in
vited us to visit them, and offered to pilot the ship.
The presence of our vessel in Friendly Cove had augmented
the number of the inhabitants, and the return of the chief,
who promised to remain during the ship's stay, would render
it still more considerable. Though nothing in their conduct
had lessened the confidence which their apparent weakness
inspired, I added to the defensive measures already in force,
some new regulations, which I thought the best adapted to
repel a surprize, the only species of attack from those people
which is dangerous, and which they always employ against
vessels. Macouina came on board on the 9th, at seven o'clock : in
stead of the train with which we expected to see him sur
rounded, he had with him only Noak, two other persons whom
we had seen before, and whom our people called his ministers,
and two of his children, one of whom was his eldest son,
named Macoula, who did not appear to possess the intelligence
and activity of his father. A great number of boats came.
Many of the natives endeavoured to come on board ; but the
interpreter himself having given an intimation of their pro-

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 29
ipensity to steal, I had the boarding nets put up, to secure us
from their rapacity. This operation having alarmed Macou
ina, I had the net removed on one side, on which he made an
animated address to his subjects, on the conduct they ought
to observe towards us.
I went with Macouina to the village, where there were only
five or six habitable huts remaining ; of the others, only the
uprights were left,' the planks which covered them having been
conveyed into the interior, to serve for their winter habitations,
according to the custom of all the Indians of the north-west
coast : the planks which remained were three feet broad. The
most remarkable house was that of the chief, of which only
the skeleton remained. The tree which formed the ridge-
piece was seventy-six feet long, thirty-nine inches and a half
in diameter at the large end, and seventeen at the smaller ; it
was supported by two enormous pieces, sculptured, represent
ing, on the inside, gigantic figures of the most hideous forms.
I saw the spot where Meares had built his boat and his
house. Noak gave me an account of the death of Canicum,
who was killed by Martines, whom he had bitterly reproached,
calling him a robber, on account ofthe plundering of a hut by
his people. Except this officer, the natives speak well of the
Spaniards, and have adopted many words of their language.
- A large boat of Wicananich having come alongside, Ma
couina appeared extremely angry at its coming into his port,
and made a violent speech upon the subject ; but after he had
finished, I saw him laugh aside at the fictitious part which he
had just acted.
After dinner, I visited the watering-place, situated at the
north point, and as I returned I went into a hut, which proved
to be that of Omacteaehloa, son of Canicum, who is so much
celebrated by Meares : his dwelling was in a wretched condi
tion, small, and half open, but rather less dirty than the others.
He was not there, but I saw his two wives, one of whom, who.
was blind of one eye, and very talkative, spoke a little Eng
lish : she begged me to spit upon her child's head, because it
had got the head-ache. She took care to inform me, that her
husband was the next chief to Macouina, and that the chiefs
alone had a right to two wives. In the evening, Omacteaehloa
himself came on board, with all his family ; I gave a hatchet
to the chief, and looking glasses to his wives.
A party of the natives left the village on the morning of the
10th, and set out for Taches : this change of habitation is
made with surprising expedition, by means of boats, with
which every family is provided. In less time than an Euro
pean traveller wants to pack up his portmanteau, the Indian

30 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
takes do Wn his hut, conveys into his 'boats the planks that
coyer it, and the two or three trunks which contain his riches,
and the dried fish which compose his stock of provisions ; the
others, containing their train oil, the instruments for fishing,
and the chase, he embarks with his wife, children, and his
dogs, and pn the same day erects a new house at 10 or 12
leagues from that which he left in the morning : they choose
calm and dry weather for these family expeditions.
As the Indians leave the uprights standing, they rebuild
their huts as quickly as they take them down.
On the 11th Macouina arrived at six o'clock, accompanied
by his son and Omacteaehloa ; they made me a present of two
pretty fine skins, but which had been worn. At table he made
a long speech, but it was thrown away upon us, as the inter
preter was absent : I only understood that we were the sub
jects of it, and the tone of his voice made me think he spoke
favourably of us. Noak arrived when we had finished dinner,
after which I made Macouina a present in return for his : he
seemed but moderately satisfied, because there was no cloth in
it, though otherwise it was considerable, and soon after he
asked for some cloth : knowing that I should have to begin
again at every visit, I endeavoured to put him off to the next
time, but he made me understand that he should not come
back again. I gave him 2 ells of blue cloth ; he demanded
some for his son, and I gave him the same quantity. He then
wanted some balls, and pretended that his son ought to par
take of my presents, because he was proprietor of one of the
skins which I had received. Not content with having received,
for nothing, powder, balls, coffee, rice, &c. he importuned ine
for a bottle of brandy, which I gave him to get rid of him.
In short, Macouina shewed himself in this visit an importu
nate and insatiable beggar, as Vancouver describes him, ahd
not the generous prince that Meares would make him. I was
veiy much inclined to dismiss this begging potentate, rather
than yield to his importunate demands ; but the hopes of de
riving some advantage from him next Season, induced me to
send him away satisfied. At last he departed for Taches, after
having made me promise to return, and engaged to keep his
furs for me.
Immediately after his departure, I went on shore with the
carpenter to look for spars. The difficulty was to find trees
small enough. Having followed a path which led a little
frpm the sea, I suddenly came to a lagoon of fresh water,
divided into several b vnches, and every where bordered by
trees and underwood. The wild vine is met with at every
step, as well as a beautiful shrub, which bears berries of an

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 31
agreeable taste, of which the natives consnme a great quan
tity. Having left the path to return to the strand, I entered a
thick wood, and arrived first at a small and rocky point, a mile
from the entrance. Hitherto we had seen only pines, here we
found some firs, which had no fault but that of being too large
for us. However, we met with some that suited us1.
I questioned Noak when he returned on board respecting the
furs, and the vessels that are employed in the trade ; he told
me that the English formerly had a house, that the Spaniards
had a larger one, but that both were abandoned. He added,
that thirty months before, (he held up three times, the fingers
of both hands,) an English vessel had come into the cove, the
captain of which had a wooden leg, and that he stopped only
three days : that before that, and after the departure of the
English and Spaniards, only two vessels had entered the Bay,
one English, the other American ; that they had anchored at
Mawina; that at present, and for a long time since, his coun
trymen sent the furs to Naspate, (at the western extremity of
the island,) where they exchanged them for handsomer blan
kets than ours. He told me also that the fishery lasted, six
months ; that it had been finished two months, and would
consequently begin again in four months, and he assured me
that they would reserve the skins for me, if they were certain
I would come back for them, which I positively engaged to
do. Other accounts confirmed most of the statements of Noak
on the sea otter fishery, and the present state of the commu
nications of foreign vessels with these people.
On the 12th I went with Noak to examine the west side of
the Bay, which I ascended 8 or 9 miles to the' north, near to
Mawina. About a mile at the most from Friendly Cove, there
is another smaller one, which affords excellent anchorage at
three fathoms at low water, and a careening place which is
entirely closed : the natives call this cove by the name of
Qufza. From this point tp the north, the coast forms the western
side of a channel a league long and a mile broad, closed on the
east by a chain of three woody islets, called Hinasohous. From
the northern point of the largest, which is the middle one, a
kind of ledge extends, composed of a mass of rocks, in which
there is a break, five fathoms broad, and twenty long, which
serves as a communication to a beautiful lake, that extends
several miles into the country. During the tide's this passage
becomes a sluice, through which ,the waters rush with great
noise and rapidity. It was now hig>; water; being warned
of the danger by these circumstances, > s well as by Noak, We
kept close to the shore, where the current was weak. We

32 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
easily reached' the summit of the coast, which is about forty
feet high, and when we got to the opposite side, saw at
our feet a magnificent basin, as smooth as a mirror, some
times extending between verdant hills, covered with gigantic
trees, and sometimes bounded by high naked banks. This
scene of wild and tranquil nature was animated only by some
salmon sporting on the surface of the water, and by an eagle
which hovered above us. I regretted my inability to explore
this little mediterranean. . On our return we met several
boats of the natives, from whom we received only testimonies
of kindness.
On the 13th, the fishermen came late, but at eleven o'clock
they arrived in "great numbers, and we were surrounded with
boats the rest of the day ; among others, there was one from
Clayoquot, on board which was a chief of some importance,
who had a cloak of two otters'-skins, which he offered to sell.
He was admitted on board, and regaled with biscuit and treacle.
He exceeded his countrymen in the tediousness with which
he bargained ; having baffled the talents of Eyssautier, our
principal agent in these negotiations, he disappeared, and was
strongly suspected of having carried off the iron helm of the
long boat. He soon returned, but without his cloak, and pro
tested his innocence, and, as we had no proof against him, we
were obliged to take his word, but I sent him away, because
he had not fulfilled his engagement. This man was better
made, and more robust, than those of Nootka ; his physiog
nomy bespoke more vivacity, understanding, and cunning.
The next day some families returned to their habitations,
and two huts were already built at six o'clock in the morning.
Numerous boats came, but no more furs than the day before.
Among the women who came on board, there were two girls,
who were tolerably pretty, and not so dirty as the others ; a
sailor having spoken to one of them, was violently reprimanded
by her mother.
Having gone to the outer coast to take the elevation, I was
accompanied by three young men, who, without incommoding
me, followed me every where. Returning on board, I took
with me two of them, whose countenances spoke in their
favour. When evening came, we had some difficulty in getting
rid of our new friends, who wished to pass the night onboard.
They did not go away till we had promised them presents for
the next day, anc1 v',i +l*ey had given us a specimen of their
dancing and mus "¦ ,v: vnging was simple, and not dis
agreeable, but iiiien, .,..•; jy frightful cries; the couplets
very short, and Hie '¦¦->¦¦• is f the ritornello sonorous : HelK
yalla he", helUydtc I t understanding them, -I thought

Roquefeuil's Voyage round ihe World. 33
they had borrowed them from the Lascars, on board some
vessel from India, but the explanations which they gave me
of their own accord, confirmed us, that these songs were in
honour of their country, of which they speak with enthusiasm.
The eldest assured us, that Macouina said wacock to the sun.
I went ashore early on the 15th, with ten men, to convey,
from the forest to the beach, the trees which had been cut
by our carpenters. Eachtel, a nephew of Macouina, joined
us with another man ; both' took great pains to gain my favor,
by assisting us in our labour, and by shewing me various spe
cies of berries of an acid, and pretty agreeable taste, which
abound in this place; one of them resembles a currant in its
form and taste, though the berries grow single. These two
Indians understood the use of the lever, and managed it very
adroitly. Eachtel gave me to understand, that it was by this
means the great stones were raised, which are employed in
building the huts of Macouina.
After making some observations, I returned on board with
my two companions ; they eat and drank with tolerable pro
priety, and though rather awkward with their knives and forks,
it was plain that they were not unacquainted with the use of
those instruments. After dinner, Eachtel , shewed a small
round box, which served him as a dressing case. It contained
a comb, some necklaces and ear-rings, a mirror, some down to
serve as powder, and several little bags, with black, white, and
a red dust, resembling black lead. Few of the natives go from
home without these articles, for, with all their dirt and ugli
ness, they are inconceivably vain. When our guest was going >
away, I observed that his boat was new, and very well made,
and expressed a wish to purchase it : he manifested his readiness
to part with it for about four yards of cloth, to which 1 added
a mirror ; but our Indian, who had hitherto shewn so much
frankness in his dealings with us, endeavoured to cany off one
of the three paddles. I expressed my dissatisfaction at this
conduct, and the wife of the chief, who was present, also re
proached him for it.
Mr. Vimont found some human bones, which, with other
indications, led us to imagine that they were the remains of a
repast of Cannibals. In the course of the following day, (16th
of September) several boats came with families, going to take
up their winter quarters at Taches. Some of these boats
were very large ; one, which was very well made, had fourteen
persons on board. The chief to whom it belonged, was re
ceived on board, at the recommendation of Omachteachloa,
who had given us a fine salmon. This chief was well made
and robust; he had a much thicker beard than the other
Voyages and Travels, No. LIV. Vol. IX. F

34 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. "
Indians ; he was a man of about thirty years of age, a relation
of Macouina, and his deputy in a village on the coast of Clay*
oquot. He appeared to be much respected by the other chiefs,
and shewed a frank and decided character in his intercourse
with us. We purchased of him four otters' skins and one
bear's skin.
Omacteaehloa and Machoalick passed the day on board, and
were very gay during the repast. I gave each a present, and
they endeavoured to express their gratitude and friendship
towards me. I thought this would be a good opportunity to
find out the secret respecting the bones which our surgeon had
seen. I therefore went with him to the spot, and questioned
Machoalick, who confirmed our conjecture, that this place,
some hundred paces in the forest, behind the abode of the
chief, was consecrated to festivities ; but I obtained no positive
information on the principal point; he either could not or
would not understand, whenever we asked how his country-*-
men treated their prisoners, and whether they eat human flesh.
The bones, he said, belonged to bodies unburied by the bears,
which often disturbed the graves. They inter their dead any
where, and have no fixed burying ground. This place was
destined to the repasts which followed the whale fishery ; a
large trunk in the wood served as a drum, on which Macouina
beat time, and accompanied himself when singing. Machoa
lick entered into details on the subject, which we could not
fully comprehend, and which related to the ceremonies used
by the natives before and after this undertaking, which is of
so much importance to them. The chief, before he distributes
their portions to the guests, acts a kind of pantomime, during
which he frequently imitates the blowing of the whale. Ma---
choalick doubtless alluded to some formal act of invocation
when he emphatically repeated, that Macouina said ivacoch
to the sun ; I know not whether it was the idea of an abomi
nable repast, suggested by the accounts of Meares, which had
possessed my mind, and cast a gloom over all this scene, but
I shuddered during this recital, made at the beginning of the
night in a dark and desert place, by an enthusiastic savage,
who made furious gestures, imitating the motions and cries of
his chief, when he cut up a sea monster that he had killed
with his harpoon.
The next day I made an excursion in the Whale boat t®
examine the east side of the entrance, towards the south
After having crossed it I came into a cove, to the east of
Friendly Cove, at the foot of a mountain. The only remark
able thing here is a steep rock, which forms a natural arcade,
under which I landed. The sea at high water rises beyond it^

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 35
and covers a pretty beach, not more than 100 feet in circum
ference. The arch may be about 20 feet deep, 13 or 14 high,
and 10 broad. . We breakfasted on biscuits and brandy, and
some enormous muscles which we found on the rocks ; we had
also strawberries and raspberries. The wind rising, I deter
mined to return on board, where I hastened the preparations
to get under -sail, which we did at one o'clock in the after
noon. . During our short stay at Nootka, the Indians gave us no
cause for alarm. We took in with the greatest facility our
supplies of wood and water, and the provisions which the
country affords ; but, unfortunately, the furs are much scarcer
than they formerly were, so that we had only procured twenty1
sea-otter skins. Most of the families thai still inhabited
Friendly Cove left it the same day that we did, and the two or
three that still remained with Omacteaehloa, intended to fol
low them to Taches, as soon as we should have left their dis
trict. To the little I have said of making land af Nootka,
I will add, that Point Breakers, at the extremity of a slip of
low land, is a good guide, all the east of the coast being high
land, especially to the west. The general aspect of the coun
try is also a good guide ; the mountains which surround the
bay have angular summits, cut in strange forms, as well as
several peaks, among which we may observe that of Taches,
which resembles a steeple. To the west the profiles of the
mountains are more regular, and generally rounded.
On the 18th of September, at 5 o'clock in the morning, we
were off the entrance of Nootka and Point Breakers. A boat
from behind the point came alongside; there were nine
Indians, only t%o of whom were allowed to come on board.
They recognize Macouina for their supreme chief. They were
in general better made, more lively, and less dirty than the
inhabitants of Nootka, They sung, beating time with their
paddles, while one of them standing, executed a kind of pan
tomime, mixed with gesticulations and attitudes, sometimes
ferocious, and sometimes grotesque. They tried to persuade
me to anchor in their port, which they shewed us, where they
promised we should have many otter skins ; but I invited them
to bring them on board.
, On the following day I kept near . the coast, in hopes that
some boats should come out with furs, as I had asked them ;
I wished also to examine this part of the coast. I Was disap
pointed in both : I was not, however, much surprised at not
seeing the Indians, as I could imagine, from what I had heard
and seen at Nootka, that their stock of furs was exhausted at
this time of the year. I determined, therefore, to proceed to

36 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. ,
Nitinat, or Berkeley-Sound, not in the hope of better success,
but to collect information for the following year.
On the 20th we made the land, distant three or four leagues,
N.N.E. At 3 o'clock I steered N.E. to pass between the group
of islets on the west, and that on the east ; but on approach
ing, I perceived from the mast-head that the further part of
this channel, which is wide at its entrance, .was full of break
ers. I resolved to tiy the passage between the east coast and
the group, which appeared to be safer, though less open.
Though the sky was clear, and the moon bright, I would not
venture into this labyrinth, respecting which I had no guide
but Vancouver's map, which, in this part, does not appear to
me to be very correct, and which, besides, is on too small a
scale to steer by. , As for Meares' plan, it no more resembled
the entrance I had before me than that of the Ganges. The
depth, {sixty-four fathoms,) being too great to allow me to
anchor, I bore off: a calm soon followed.
The state of the weather was such, for the three following
days, that it was not till the 24th that we got into the channel,
between the continent on the east, and the islands on the west.
We put out the long-boat, and a whale-boat; and Mr. Fou-
cault was sent to seek for an anchoring place towards the
north, while the vessel proceeded in the channel with a faint
breeze. Several boats approached, but the natives would not come
alongside till the arrival of a chief, who came on board withr
out shewing any distrust.
At six o'clock Mr. Foucault returned after having found bn
the east side, two arms of the sea near each other. He entered
the largest, which afforded good anchorage, blithe depth was
great at the entrance. After several other trials, in which we
were in considerable danger, being obliged to cut our cable
and losing our best whale boat, we could find no better anchor
age than in the smallest of the two arms which Mr. Foucault
found the day before, where the vessel was moored on the
25th in nine fathoms water.
Notwithstanding the rain, we were visited by many Indians,
among whom Was Nanat, a distinguished chief, who came on
board alone. He gave us an otter skin as a present, in the
same manner as Macouina. For some succeeding days nothing
remarkable happened. We employed five days, but to no
purpose, in dragging for our cable and anchor, but on the 5th
of October, though the loss was very disagreeable, I resolved to
give up the search, as the lateness of the season and ill health
of the crew made it a duty to leave these shored and pass
the winter in a milder climate. I employed part of the 5th

Roquefeuil's Voyage round tlie World. 2/J
¦in examining the passages which lead to the channel between
the islands, though all appears clear in the chart which Van
couver gives of them after the Spaniards, several are imprac
ticable, either on account of sand banks which obstruct the
entrance, or because they are too narrow ; as for the special plan
which Meares gives of Berkeley-Sound, it appears to me to be
made according to his own fancy.
The Indians on the Nitinat shore are generally better made
and more cleanly than those of Nootka; they seem more
active, and have more expressive countenances ; but, in some
respects, they are more remote from civilization,-having less
communication with strangers ; they have a more savage look,
are more inclined to theft, and more importunate in demand
ing presents. However they never showed any hostile inten
tions either on board or towards the boats ; which, it is true,
were always armed when they were sent to any distance, and
on board the net was always put up before the number of
Indians became considerable. Of all the means of defence
which the Bordelais possessed, there was none which they
dreaded so much as a black mastiff dog, which we brought
from Peru. We saw several men and a greater number of
women, whose complexion differed from white only by a tinge
of pale yellow. Some young people, of both sexes, had a
colour, and many children would have been thought pretty in
Europe. The greater number of the Indians have black hair,
the remainder a light red, all wear the hair long, and the women
comb it carefully and divide it over the middle of the forehead.
Both sexes dress the same as in Nootka, with this difference,
that the women wear under their other garments a kind of
apron of bark, not woven but only fastened to a girdle. We
saw many well-made women with good arms, but, in general,
very ugly hands. On the whole they are better looking than
the women of Nootka, though there is' something harsher in
their countenances, chiefly owing to their narrow foreheads,
which are wrinkled at an early age. We saw only three or four
who in Europe would have any pretensions to beauty. One
of them was the wife of Cia, who had received us hospitably ;
another the wife of a great chief, was almost white i she had
large black eyes, regular features, a fine countenance, and
much propriety and dignity in her manners. The women and
girls appeared as modest as those of Nootka, and still more
reserved. We observed here the same hierarchy and the same subor
dination as at Nootka. Nanat appeared to be the grand chief ;
he exercised his authority with more arrogance than Macouina ;
we frequently saw him behave harshly to Cia, and a part of

38 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
the presents which we had made the latter, passed into the
hands of his superior.
As far as I could understand, the natives call by the names
of Anachtchitl and Oheia the district which surrounds their
bay; at least it is certain that the name of Nitinat belongs to
no part of it, but to a village which is situated far to the south
east, towards the strait of Fuca. They give the name Tchaxa,
or rather Tchacktza, to Port Desire, (Port Desire,) and the
district which surrounds it. We had given this name before
hand to the anchoring place, the discovery of which interested
us so nearly. This port, into which the natives told us no vessel
had ever before entered, is situated two leagues from the passage,
on the east side of the bay, and, and as there is every reason
to believe, on the great island Quadra, of Vancouver. The
only mark is a steep hillock, destitute of trees but covered
with a beautiful verdure, which is on the sea side, some cables'
length to the south, and which has the appearance of a ruin
ed fortification. Being surrounded in the interior by trees
which command it, it is not very easily to be distinguished.
Even the entrance of the canal of Tchachtza, which is only
ten fathoms broad, and surrounded by lofty trees, could only
be seen when very near, if it were not preceded by a cove less
open than deep, but which has too much water to anchor with
a single cable. In this recess was our port, as well as another
arm of the sea, more spacious but less sheltered and obstruct
ed in the inside by rocks and shoals.
Before I left these coasts the Indians solicited me to return
the next year, but I would not bind myself to pay a second
visit to this port, which the otters have long since nearly for
saken. We got out to sea on the 7th of October, but the wind fail
ing we were soon obliged to come to an anchor. Shortly after
wards a man, who was nearly white, came on board; there
was something in his manners and address which indicated a
higher degree of civilization. When he came alongside he
asked, in English, with a kind of politeness, to be admitted ;
I took him down into my cabin and offered him treacle, bis
cuit, and wine. He behaved with much propriety, without
asking for any thing. He spoke English better than any other
Indian,' so as to make himself well understood, notwithstand
ing his bad pronunciation. His name was Swanimilich, and
he lived at Tchinouk, behind Cape Flattery, as he gave me to
understand, whence he had come to fish. He assured me that
there was at that place four Americans, who were left by a
vessel from New York. He named three very distinctly, Messrs.
Clark, Lewis, and Kean. They had a house of their own, in

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 39
which they were to pass the winter : he told me that several
ships came every year, and mentioned an English vessel, called
the Ocean. I never was able to ascertain the truth of these
facts, of which the Americans, whom I have seen since, had
no knowledge.
After what I had heard from the Spaniards, it was my in
tention to go to the Russian settlement of Bodega. I came
in sight of it on the 13th, but fogs and calms hindered me
from anchoring off the port, till two days after. A boat with
two Kodiaks immediately came out to us. From their man
ners and dress they looked more like European sailors, than
like savages, whose name is hardly known in Europe, One of
them spoke tolerable Spanish : he was among those who had
been taken while hunting otters in Port St. Francisco, whence
he had found means to escape. After giving them some break
fast, I went on shore with the one who spoke Spanish.
I found that only small vessels can enter the port, which is
obstructed by a bar, where the depth is only one fathom and
a half at low water. I understood that the Russian settle
ment was some leagues further north, at the mouth of a small
river, which the Russians call Slavinska Koss, in latitude 38°
30, on a part of the coast where there is no anchorage. Mr.
Koskoff, the governor of the settlement, had just departed for
St. Francisco, on board the company's ship the Kutusoff.
This account made me abandon the hope which had brought
me to this place ; I, therefore, returned on board, at noon, and
continued my voyage for St. Francisco, where we arrived on
the 16th, and found the Kutusoff at anchor, off the Presidio.
I immediately landed, and met, on the beach, Don L. Arguello,
who, as Well as the other officers, received me as an old ac
quaintance, and expressed much pleasure at our return.
The very next day we began our labours. I went to the
Presidio, and the mission, to take measures for a regular sup
ply of bread, meat, and vegetables ; a wholesome and resto
rative diet being necessary for the crew, six of whom were on
the sick list, and the others more or less affected by our expedi
tion to the North- West Coast. I likewise thought of laying
in provisions for the continuation of our voyage,, which seemed
likely to be of much longer duration than was at first imagined.
The 19th being the anniversary of our departure from France,
all work was suspended. I went to the Presidio, with the
officers and crew, to attend divine service. The men had
double rations for dinner. On the 21st, some parties were
sent on shore to commence their labours, but, on their return,
in the evening, we found that two of the men, named Paris
and Ostein, had deserted. I immediately went with Mr.

40 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
Briole in search of them, but not meeting with any horses,' We
were obliged to give up the pursuit, our deserters being
mounted. On the 28th and 29th,- as we found that our sick
recovered very slowly, I took advantage of the offer made by
the fathers of the mission, and sent four of the sick to their
infirmary, where Mr. Vimont attended them every day.
It was now that I had the'first information of a plot, formed
during our stay at Nitinat, to carry off the ship, after getting
rid of the officers. Ostein, one of the two deserters, had been
the author of it, but he found so few of the men wicked enough
to commit such a dreadful crime, that he was obliged- to give
up his project. Circumstances npt permitting me to investi
gate this affair, without injury to my employers, I thought it
best to dissemble, and retain for the success of the expedition,
men who had no claim to mercy. *
The progress of our labours was considerably impeded by
the numbers of our sick, so that this delay, and the duty of
allowing time for the recovery of the patients, caused our stay
at St. Francisco to be twice as long as I had intended. On the
11th, the Kutusoff sailed for New- Archangel.
On the 14th, out boatswain, Charles Renom, fell a victim
to his disorder, notwithstanding the care of Mr. Vimont, and
the attention he received at the mission^ where all our sick
were treated with the greatest kindness. He was buried the
following day, and I attended his funeral, with two officers and
six men. Renom was universally regretted, and his loss sin
cerely affected the crew.
On the 17th, Paris and Ostein were arrested by the soldiers,
an,d brought on board, where they were put in irons. On the
19th, at noon, we unmoored ; at three o'clock, the officers
of the Presidio, who had come on board to take leave, re
turned on shore. In the night, the ship was rid of Ostein :
his removal gave general satisfaction to the crew.
On the 20th of November we sailed from St. Francisco, for
the Marquesas Islands, and, on the 22d of December, came in
sight of the most eastern of the group, discovered by }Jlen-
dana. We first saw Hatouhougou, (-Hood Island, of Cook,)
and, shortly after, Ohevahoa, (the Dominique, of Mendana,)
and some land, which appeared detached from it, unless it is
connected with the great island by some low land, and which '
can be no other than St. Pedro. '
On the 23d, at four o'clock in the morning, I approached ,
Raouga, and Hatouhougou appeared to the east-south-east. *
We sailed along the south of the first of these islands, at five
miles distance. It seemed to us not very woody, but there
are some fine groups of trees in the villages, which lie between '.

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 41
very steep hills. At nine o'clock, we saw, successively,, the
islands of Nukahiva to the west, and .Rahopou to the south-
south-west ; we steered towards the former, and made every
preparation to come to an anchor. In Comptroller's Bay we
sailed along the coast, at the distance of a m^e, doubling the
little isle of Tahia-Hoy, which forms the eastern point of Port
Anna Maria of Hergest ; we perceived at the farther part of
this fine anchoring place, a three-masted vessel, which imme
diately hoisted the American colours. We had hoisted ours
on the coast. We tacked, to reach the anchoring place. At
half-past four o'clock, a whale-boat came, rowed by the natives,
whicli had on board an American, from the United States, of
the name of Ross, who had resided several years in this country,
where he acted as agent for the vessels which came for san-
ders-wood. He offered me his services, as well as that of
Captain Cornelius Sowle, of the Resource, of New York,
which we saw at anchor. After having given me some gene
ral information, Mr. Ross took leave, promising to give my
thanks to Captain Sowle, and to assure him, that I should be
happy to render him any service. Soon after, the captain
himself came, and repeated his obliging offers. At eight o'clock,
we anchored in eleven fathoms, on a bottom of fine gray sand,
five cables from the shore. While I was conversing with
Captain Sowle, who explained the reasons which had induced
him to exclude the women from his ship, one of my people
came to inform me, that about fifty of them bad got on
board my vessel, having swam to it, and entered by means
of the ends of ropes hanging down., Notwithstanding the
prudent advice of Mr. Sowle, I did not think fit to drive them
away ; and, besides, I should not have known what means to
adopt to expel such an enemy, whp was already in possession
of the deck.
On the 24th, I visited the old chief Kcatanoui', surnamed
Porter, who, in this country, where there is no acknowledged
authority, enjoyed all the respect that affection and esteem can
give. I found this good old man under a shed, on the sea- shore,
on a platform, covered with large pebbles. He made me sit
down by him, on a mat, and seemed delighted at the arrival
of a ship from the countiy of good muskets ; for he knew
France only as the place where those brought by Captain
Sowle had been manufactured. What I told him of the quan
tity of arms, powder, &c. that we had on board, gave him great
satisfaction. The old chief having had some cocoa-nuts
brought to refresh me, we conversed, by the aid of an English
sailor, who had lived several years in the island. We were
Voyages and Travels, No, LIV. Vol. IX. G

42 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
soon surrounded by natives. Some women came under the
shed, a greater number of men sat down on the platform> or
remained standing around. The men were of a superior sta
ture to most Europeans, and excelled them no less in the per
fection of their forms. Except a girdle, they had no clothes
on, unless we consider as such the tattooing, which covers the
bodies of the adults. The women, in general, are about as
tall as the French women, very graceful, well made, - and
have agreeable and regular features. Taia, the daughter of
the chief, was remarkable for an agreeable figure, pretty coun
tenance, and mild looks. The colour of their skin is a tint of
bright citron. With the exception of the oil, with which they
rub the skin, the women, as well as the men, were remarkable
for their cleanliness. Their dress is composed of a girdle,
descending to the knees, and a mantle fastened over the left
shoulder ; both are of a stuff made of bark, as well as a kind
of cap, which covers the hair, and very much becomes them.
Christmas-Day was a holiday. Captain Sowle dined on
board. The original object of his expedition had been the
seal fishery, but some delays in fitting him out, having hin
dered, him from sailing in time, for the season of 1816, his
owners had given him some muskets, to exchange for sanders
wood, till the time for the fishery came. He had collected
about sixty tons of wood during five months' stay in this
Archipelago. He was on the point of departing to follow the
principal object of his voyage. What I learnt from him, con
firming the information I had already received, on the advan
tage of visiting the islands to the windward, where it is easy
to obtain, at a small expense, articles which maybe exchanged
at Nukahiva, I resolved on making this excursion, as soon as
1 could have the company of Mr. Ross.
The Resource sailed, on the 27th, for China, where she was
to dispose of her sanders-wood, before she went to the fish*-
ery. Captain Sowle took charge of a packet for France, and
a letter for Manilla, both of which he was to leave at Macao.
,The departure of the Resource leaving Mr. Ross at liberty^
I was not willing to put off my visit to the windward islands
any longer. We sailed the next day, having ori board, besides
Mr. Ross, five natives his boatmen, and two Englishmen, who
had lived for some time in these islands, and had asked mefor
a passage, with the intention of making some purchases. At
two o'clock, on the morning of the 30th, we doubled the east
ern extremity of Rahopou, and steered for Ohevahoa, which
we saw in the east, at day break. Shortly after, we saw Taou-
hata (Santa Christana) to the south east. Intending first to visit
Ohevahoa, which is the most fertile island in the Archipelago, I

RoqicefeuU's Voyage round the World. 43
steered so as to pass into the channel, which separates it from
Tahouhata, to reach the anchorage of Taogou, (the Ontario of
the Americans) which Ross pointed out as the most favourable
for our plan. As soon as we had anchored, the vessel was
surrounded by natives, principally from the west part, both in
boats and swimming. I went with Mr. Ross into the whale---
boat, visited the village Of Taoa, at the bottom of 'a large
bay, to the west of Port Ontario. Only three months before,
a boat belonging to the Flying Fish, which we had seen at
Callao, had been taken by the natives of this place. The un
happy crew had atoned for their imprudence with their lives,
and their corpses had become the prey of their assassins.
Ross, who two years before had resided several weeks at this
village, did not think fit to trust himself to his ancient hosts,
and we rested on our oars within musket shot of the shore,
which was soon covered with Indians of both sexes. Several
swam round the boats ; most of them were women and girls,
who, though not so handsome as those of Nukahiva, were,
however, very pretty, and I could not imagine that such agree
able countenances could belong to Cannibals. The men, whom
curiosity, or, perhaps, some criminal motive, drew round us,
were equal, in their stature and appearance, to those of Nu
kahiva, but their limbs were more vigorous, and their coun
tenances more savage ; their skin was of a darker colour, and
they were more tattooed. As they could not supply us with
either sanders wood or hogs, we staid but a veiy short time.
At six o'clock we went in the whale boat of Ross, accom
panied with the long boat, to the creek of Atouona, Which is
separated from the port only by a slip of land, which closes it
on the north-west side; the Indians expected us there with
several lots of sanders wood, of which we soon obtained nine
quintals for as many pounds of powder. The boat returned
at seven o'clock. In order to keep up a good understanding
it had been necessary to admit some young girls, who had
expressed a desire to become acquainted With our people.
Tne same regulations were observed during the night as on
the north-west coast, except that the nets were not put up : the
proas, with outriggers, used by these islanders, and their awk
wardness in managing them, giving us no reason to fear their
boarding us.
On the 1st of January, 1818, our boats went in the morning
to Atouona, and brought eight or nine hundred pounds of
sanders wood and several hogs.
I set out early on the 2d with Mr. Ross, in his whale boat,
to visit the creeks to the east of the port. The long-boat
accompanied us, carrying muskets and other things for traffic.

44 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the' World.
At 7 o'clock we reached (he little creek Hanahehe, where we
cast anchor. The valley seems to extend into the interior and
is sprinkled with houses down to the beach ; few Indians how
ever were assembled. Some of both sexes swam to our boats.
Ross negotiated with them, but after waiting three hours for
the hogs they promised, we proceeded to Hanamate. This
creek affords better shelter than the first ; however they are
of no importance on account of the proxirriity of Port Ontario,
which is preferable in every respect. Our expedition was not
fruitless, for we got thirty hogs, part of which had been
brought from Hanahehe ; we paid three muskets for the whole.
We visited Hanamate again the next day, but though Mr. Ross
had taken measures the day before to prevent all delay, it was
a long time before we could collect the cargo, which was again
composed of hogs ; Mr. Ross went on shore with his friend to
remove some difficulties. Seeing many women and children
on the beach, I determined to follow him ;. I was soon sur
rounded by women, who were in general taller and more
robust than those of Nukahiva ; but they were not so well
made, and had less pleasing countenances.
Ross returned after a short absence and declared I had acted
imprudently, notwithstanding the security which the proximity
of the armed boat afforded. A young American named Charles
Person, a native of Boston, who had lived several months with
an old chief, the father of Ross's friend, had come to Hana
mate' to see the latter ; I invited him on board, hoping to obtain
some information from him ; he greatly praised his hosts^ but
it must be confessed that he possessed nothing that could
tempt them. The next day I again went ashore with Ross
expecting to find wood and provisions which had been pro
mised us. Considering the bad condition of the only light
boat which we had left, I desired to obtain the whale boat of
the Flying Fish, which the Indians had drawn on shore after
they had murdered the crew. The boats were soon surround
ed by Indians of both sexes, Who swam to them, most of them
were young women, who sported like Nereids, diving and
swimming in all kind^ of attitudes ; and never failed to ask a
recompense for the amusement they had afforded us ; a piece
of biscuit contented them. The old acquaintances of Ross
had also come to visit him, and bring him proofs of their regard.
They invited him to go on shore, but their friendly outside
concealed perfidious designs. One of Mr. Ross's boatmen,
who had gone to examine the state of the whale boat which I
wanted to purchase, brought word that the Indians had hidden
some arms in a spot covered by the rocks, and that without '
doubt they would have turned them against us, had we acced-"

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 45
ed to their treacherous invitation. We quitted these cannibals
without having attained the object of our visit.
On the 5th we took the usual precautions at night. The sky
was very cloudy and dark, and heavy rain fell almost without
intermission. At half past one in the morning the dog barked
furiously ; soon after we perceived that the head-fast of the
long-boat had been cut ; another was immediately fixed, and
double vigilance exerted. At a quarter past two both head-
fasts were cut at the same time, under the veiy eyes of the
watch, whose attention, excited by the first attempt, was par
ticularly directed towards the boat. But the darkness pre
vented them from seeing any thing but the motion of the
boat ; it was still near enough for them to leap in and secure
it. The crew was immediately on the alert. I had some
¦ musket shots fired upon both banks, though the most profound
silence prevailed. The long-boat was instantly put out to
examine the ropes. We had already found that the small
bower cable was cut. We continued to keep good watch
till day-break ; two men remained in the boat, which was
moored alongside. As soon as we could see the buoy of the
bower anchor, we immediately took it on board.
Our short stay had procured us, besides some vegetables,
4000 lb. of sanders wood, and above 80 hogs. Having accom
plished my chief object, I would not prolong my stay among
these perfidious savages, but resolved to return to Taia Hoy,
without touching at the other islands of the south of this
archipelago, which are all inhabited by tribes as treacherous
as those of Oiswahoa ; besides, the sanders wood is inferior to
that of Nukahiva.
While we were preparing for our departure, an old chief
whom we had seen several times, with some other Indians,
brought us some hundred weight of sanders wood, and some
hogs. In order to discover the authors of the hostile attempt
which had been made upon us, I pretended to believe that he
was concerned in it, though his now coming was a proof of
his innocence. The old man evinced, at this accusation, a de
gree of terror which it would be more difficult to describe than
to account for. He protested his innocence, and said that the
people of Atouna had been guilty of the crime, in which he
could not have taken any part, as he belonged to a hostile and
distant valley. This assertion was confirmed by the other
Indians. On their departure, all seemed to think themselves
happy in not having felt the effects of our vengeance ; perhaps
it was from their fear of reprisals, that we obtained for a pis
tol, the articles which they had brought. At one o'clock we
sailed from the port of Taogou, and at nine, being to leeward

46 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
of Hanamate, and pretty near shore, Mr. Ross landed his
ypung fellow-countryman. On our return to Taia Hoy, we
immediately set about the, operations which the damage the
vessel had sustained had rendered necessary. During ¦ the
first few days after our return, we obtained some thousand
pounds of wood in exchange for hogs. But this traffic was
of short duration : the time of the great solemnities, when
there is an enormous consumption of these animals, was still
some months distant*
The weather, which since our return had been generally
rainy and windy, being pretty fine, I went on the 1 1th with
Mr. Ross to Hacahouy, two leagues to the west. The Ameri
cans call this place Louis Bay, after the first of their captains
who entered it, though he had been preceded by the celebra
ted captain Krusenstern, who denominated it Tchitchakoff, a
name which will probably never be pronounced by any inha
bitant of the Marquesas. We came out by the passage within
the rocks on the west, which is not practicable except . fojr
boats ; we passed before the creek of Chaoutoupa, separated
from this port by a slip of land. At the farther end are some
huts, and scattered groups of cocoa and bread-fruit trees.
From that place to Hacahouy the coast is steep and bold,
above a hundred feet high, with hardly an interval where it is
possible to land. In the same manner as to the east of Taia
Hoy, there are often parallel strata of various colours, and vol
canic rocks, some of which rise to the height of the coast.
While sailing past, it is impossible to avoid remarking one
situated about half way. The perpetual breaking of the sea,
has formed a deep cavern, in which the waves, dashing with
prodigious force, produce a detonation like that of a large
piece of artillery ; while part of the waters issuing through a
vent which the waves have made in the vault of the cavern,
rises to a considerable height, where it disperses in spray.
This double phenomenon induced our people to give this rock
the name of the Whale.
The creek of Hacahouy terminates, to the south, a valley
which we traversed in the opposite direction for more than a
league. To the west and east it is confined by two ramparts
of rock, which, on the sea-shore, and for more than half a
league inland, narrow it to three or four hundred toises at the
most. The mountain on the east side afterwards declines, and
taking a bend, permits the valley to extend towards the north**-
east. The other is joined to the south with the steep coast,
and stretches inland towards the north. Both of them rise far
above the tallest trees in the valley. A considerable stream,
which runs between the village and the mountain on the east,

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World, 47
giVes extraordinary fertility to this happy valley. All the
ground which is not occupied by the numerous huts of the
natives, is entirely covered with various plants, cocoas, bread
fruit trees, banians, and other large tropical trees. Some pro
duce food, which is equally agreeable and salutary ; others
furnish materials for building, or for the few clothes which
custom and vanity, rather than the climate, render necessary
to the inhabitants. Lastly, they afford a cool shade, which is
the most agreeable retreat during the long heats.
The Indians of both sexes are no less favoured than those of
Taia Hoy. I remarked a greater proportion of individuals of
colossal stature, and, in general, they were of a stouter make.
The complexion of the women seemed to me to approach
nearer to the white, than that of their neighbours, a difference
which may be accounted for by the almost continued shade
which covers the valley. Though Ross assured me that these
people were not so good as those in our port, and that we
must- not trust them, we were every where received in the
most satisfactory manner. In many huts which we visited, in
search of sanders-wood, they offered us excellent cocoa-nuts.
Going alone into one of the best-looking huts, I found two
young women, the handsomest I saw in that part ofthe world,
Their curiosity, and that of their female neighbours, by whom
I was soon surrounded, being excited by my dress and com
plexion, I had some difficulty in escaping from the minute
investigation which they were disposed to make. Before we
departed,, we made a collation of the provisions we had
brought on shore, and the fruits of the country, in a little hut
ori the sea-side, under a delicious shade. It was occupied by
a widow and her daughter, by whom we were received in the
most affable manner.
Two double canoes from Ohevahoa arrived on the 14th,
which did not enter till they had cruised for some time, and
announced their arrival by blowing large shells, which pro
duce a sound similar to our bagpipes. They were hauled upon
the beach with much ceremony, and great rejoicings, by the
inhabitants of the neighbouring valleys, who came in great
numbers, dressed in their finest style. During the day, these
strangers, to the number of about forty; brought us, besides
some pieces of cloth, gourds, and other productions of their
country, a poem, in honour of the eldest son of the young
chief, the grandson of Keatanoui Porter, and other effusions
of their poetical genius, which they sung to monotonous airs,
something resembling our church music. On the 25th, we
saw a great number of women come from the different val
leys, who repaired to the hut of an old chief, named Pahou-

48 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
tehe, and, by strangers, called the elephant, on account of his
enormous size. I learned from Ross, that this extraordinary
concourse of women was on account of the desperate situa
tion of his wife, to whom they were going to celebrate the
mournful ceremonies, of which I shall speak in the sequel.
Early in the morning of the 9th of February, I went on
shore with Partarieux and Ross, to make an excursion to the
highest of the mountains, which close the valleys on the north
east of the port. We were much fatigued by climbing up the
steep path whiph leads to the summit. In this excursion, I
had occasion to admire the agility with which the natives
passed the most dangerous places. Though often loaded with
fifty or sixty pounds of sanders- wood^ they advanced much
more lightly than we 'who carried nothing. Happily, the
bushes and reeds which border the precipices, render the pas
sage less dangerous. Half way up the mountain there is a
spring of delicious water, near which we breakfasted. Some
of the natives, whom we met, were very courteous and obli
ging/ When we reached the summit, which commands a view
of the coast and the interior, the most beautiful prospect pre
sented itself to the view. To the east, we saw Comptroller's
Bay, the great valley of the Taipis, that of the Happas, whose
huts we saw ; the first one, the other two leagues distant. On
this side, there is a road not so bad as that by which we had
ascended, though still very steep. This was the way that
Captain Porter passed, when marching against the Taipis, and
where the natives of Taia Hoy, his allies, brought up a can
non ; an enterprize that must have been as difficult to these
savages, as the passage of Mount Saint Bernard to our armies.
The strangers from Ohevahoa departed on the 16th for their
own countiy. They had derived good profits from their mer-
. chandize, but more from the productions of their muse, which
had obtained for them the most hospitable reception, and
numerous presents from the amateurs, who frequented their
courts. These representations were very often repeated, par
ticularly at the commencement of their visit. The multitude
of both sexes, who came from the most distant valleys, and
met early in the morning, made me conjecture that the fete
was announced beforehand, and the time and place appointed.
The latter was always one of those enclosures, which are in
all the villages, in the form of a rectangle, from three to four
hundred feet long, and about a quarter as much in breadth,
surrounded by a parapet breast high, ten feet thick, faced and
covered with large pebbles, and sometimes with flags, hewn
out of a very soft stone. There is often a row of trees on the
inside, not far from the parapet, and on the outside there ave

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 49
always several avenues, which form agreeable promeriades, the
coolness of which enhances the advantages of these amphi
theatres. The musicians assemble at one of the ends, wliere
they squat down. The principal person of the band, or the
poet himself, sings, first alone, each couplet, which is imme
diately repeated by the others in chorus. Some accompany
themselves by clapping their hands, others holding the left
fore arrri crossed upon the breast, strike with the right hand
both the breast and the external part of the arm at the joint.
They strike so hard that each blow produces a very loud sound,
and they sometimes bruise themselves so as tp take the skin
from the arm. They likewise have large tamtams (a kind of
drum) the only instrument I saw among them. When they
reach the place where the concert is to be held, most Pf the
amateurs lay their presents at the feet of the musicians. Both
sexes always put on their finest and most valuable ornaments.
All their new things are kept for these occasions, when they
appear to be dressed with the most studied neatness ; but the
stranger is disagreeably undeceived when he becomes sensible,
on going near them, that they have been very liberal in the
use of train oil.
Up to the middle of the month we had procured only 10,000
pounds of sanders wood ; but little remaining in the valleys
about the port, I thought of procuring some at Hacahouy ; for
which district I set off early in the morning of the 17th with
one whale-boat, accompanied by Mr. Ross in his. We had
an agreeable and speedy passage, and were well received by
the friends of Ross, especially by a chief who had visited us
on board, who was no less remarkable for his.stature, seven
feet high, than for the perfect proportion of eveiy part of his
colossal person. We extended our researches for above two
leagues in the interior, and went into about twenty huts, the
proprietors of which had sanders wood. Most of these huts
were built on the right bank of a pretty stream, through which
we waded. We took a breakfast of cocoa and biscuit in the
habitation of a friend of Ross. Returning we chose another
way, and visited the huts which we had not yet seen. We
passed again by that of the colossal chief, who had prepared
for us a meal, consisting of bread-fruit and cocoa nuts mixed
together and formed into a paste, on which Ross's boatmen
regaled. We afterwards returned to the sea side, where I commenced
a bargain for sanders wood. On this occasion an act of in
considerate confidence on my part had nearly been followed
by fatal consequences. One of the owners of the sanders
wood had come with me in the whale boat, to see the powder
Voyages and Travels, Na. LIV. Vol. IX. H

50 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
which I offered him for his wood : after having concluded the
bargain, I thought I might agree to his request, to take his
powder on shore, and the more so as the wood was on the
beach ready to be embarked : when Ross saw the powder in
the hands of the Indian, he openly expressed his opinion of
my imprudence ; in fact, when about half of the wood was
embarked, the Indian, under the pretence that he had not been
sufficiently paid, refused to deliver the rest. He was seated
near a heap of wood, holding in his hand a kind of club. The
thoughts which agitated him gave to his countenance an expres
sion of ferocity, which it was as difficult to mistake as to see
without shuddering. After having strongly represented to him
through Ross, the injustice of his claims ; judging by his
silence and his countenance that stronger arguments were
necessary, I called to the whale-boat to approach, and the
men to have their arms ready, but not to make use of them
without orders. I immediately returned to the Indian, and
knocking the club out of his hand with a billet of wood, with
which I had armed myself, I demanded his ultimatum. He
made no answer, but his gloomy silence and ferocious look in
dicated that he was agitated by the most violent passion.
While he was divided between the temptation of cupidity
and the fear of being punished, his father, who was present,
fearing the consequences of his obstinacy, and seeing me re
solved to maintain by force the justice of my right, took a
handful of wood and thr'ewit into the boat. His example was
followed by several other savages, and in an instant the wood
was embarked. I congratulated myself on having succeeded
without coming to extremities ; but the Indian, enraged at not
having been able to derive any advantage from my imprudence,
meditated a cruel revenge. After having carried the, powder
home he returned armed with a club, of the height of a man,
and thick in proportion/such as the natives often use as a staff,
and, while I was walking on the beach, not fearing any evil,
came behind me, holding the club with both hands, ahd had
already raised it over my head, when his father darted forward
in time to seize his arm, and to lead him away. I did not
learn this fact till Ross told it me as we were returning; the
noise made by the Indians on the beach hindered me from at
tending to what passed behind me. This man, whom Ross
described as, one of the most wicked and dangerous in these
islands, was one of the very few who had two wives. These
were the two handsome and remarkably fair persons, whom I
have before-mentioned ; and whatever might be the violence
of his passion, it is certain, at least, that jealousy had no
part in his resentment towards me.

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 51
I had much reason to acknowledge on this occasion the good
offices of Jahouhania, priest of one pf the valleys near Haca-
houi. We had been for some time acquainted ; he had visited
me on board, and asked me to change names with him ; he
was afterwards known by the name of Roke, as the islanders
could not pronounce my name, I had reason to suppose
that this was not a step dictated by vanity or interest in this
man, who had every appearance of a good character. My
friend afterwards visited me from time to tiine, and brought
me some presents ; among others, a beautiful fan of that
country : he never failed to make me remark the exhausted
state of the bottle of brandy which he had received before.
We made three other expeditions to Hacahoui, which pro
duced about eleven thousand pounds of sanders wood, generally
larger than that of Taia- Hoy. All passed very peaceably in
our intercourse with the natives •; we always treated upon the
strand, within reach of the boats. I never omitted these pre
cautions after the advice of Ross, who told me no strangers
bad ever been so far into the valley of Hacahoui as I had.
On the 25th we had on board four hundred and twenty
quintals of sanders wood, which took up above eighty tons of
our room, and, together with our other goods, filled the vessel
in such a manner that we were obliged to store part of it in the
lockers, and even to leave some upon deck.
The repairs, necessary to enable the ship to go to sea, were
retarded by the bad weather, towards the end of the month,
so that notwithstanding my desire to reach the north-west
coast as soon as possible, we were not ready before the 27th.
Mr. Siepki, our third officer, was landed at his request, and
on the certificate of Mr. Vimont, that his health, which had
been bad from the beginning of the voyage, was such that he
could not proceed without danger ; I then settled with Ross,
with whose services I had been satisfied.
We weighed anchor at half past nine on the 28th of Fe
bruary. The Marquesas are a good port for vessels, which, after
having doubled Cape Horn, may have occasion to visit some
parts of Australasia ; for whalers which visit the great south
ern ocean, and for vessels going to the north-west coast, which
may not be able, for urgent reasons, to go to the Sandwich
islands, which are in eveiy respect preferable; lastly, the
Marquesas are the natural port where those ships may stop to
refresh, which are bound from the ports of South America to
China, and of those which, sailing from the north-west coast,
double Cape Horn.
Notwithstanding the facilities which the port of Taia-Hoy

52 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
affords for taking in wood and water, and the confidence
which the peaceful conduct of the natives up to this present
time naturally inspires, that of Taogou in Oevahoa seems to
be preferable, especially for those navigators whose only mo
tive for putting in here is to obtain refreshments. The cascade
on the north-west side, and the little wood surrounding it,
will supply them with wood and water, with this advantage,
that the vessel, ^hen moored athwart the watering-place, will
have its parties cinder the protection of the musketry, in case
of an attack byf'the Indians. Besides, a watch at the mast
head might observe all their motions, the country being abso
lutely naked in that part, with the exception of the little wood,
the trees of which do not stand very close together. It would
be proper to keep on board, till the departure of the vessel,
some daughters of the chiefs, who are as ready to visit stran
gers as those of the inferior classes. The boats, well armed,
and under the direction of a prudent officer, may go into the
creeks on the east side, and collect refreshments. Besides
the hogs, which may be procured in any number, at the rate
of ten for a musket, this isle produces sugar-canes, potatoes,
gourds, bananas, small oranges, the pulp of which is red,
and several kinds of fruit, besides the bread-fruit, which, with
the cocoa, is the chief food of the inhabitants. There is also
a kind of nut called ahi, and the ty, a root, the juice of which
is of the same quality, and almost as abundant as that of the
sugar-cane, and which, baked under the ashes, is an agreeable
and wholesome food. Vessels moored on the coast will pro
bably receive from the natives, as we did, a quantity of these
articles, which it is not possible to procure from Nukahiva,
where, except some cocoa nuts, nothing is to be had but wood
and water. If the object of visiting the Marquesas is to get
sanders wood, putting in at Oevahoa will still be of use,
though the wood is of inferior quality, and many articles
may be obtained there which can be disposed of to advantage
at Nukahiva.
This last island produces the best sanders wood in the Ar
chipelago. Captain Rogers, an American, was the first who
took any, as an article of commerce, after having discovered
this precious wood when passing near a fire, by the smell pro
ceeding from some pieces which the Indians had thrown into
it. In 1810 he procured above 260 tons in exchange for goods,
the primitive worth of which was about 1000 piastres, com
posed of hatchets and other utensils, and some whale's teeth
which happened to be on board, one of which was then worth
three or four tons. He sold his cargo in China, at the rate of
20 piastres per pickel, and returned for a second cargo, with

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 53
the value of 3000 piastres in articles of exchange. This time
he had ivory, which he fashioned on board into the form of
whale's teeth, not having been able to procure them in suffi
cient quantities. This fraud produced him a large profit ; but
the natives soon discovered it, and cannot now be deceived by
it. A few weeks were then sufficient to obtain a cargo, which
was sure to be sold with advantage, both on account of the
quality and size of the wood. Now all is changed ; the expor
tation of nearly 1800 tons has almost exhausted the resources
of this little island ; the small quantity of sanders wood which '
is still in the interior, is crooked, stunted, and very small, most
of the pieces not exceeding two inches in diameter^ From the
results of the researches of Capt. Sowle, and our own expe
rience, no more than 10 or 12 tons of sanders wood can be
collected in a month. With some comparatively trifling ex
ceptions, the natives take nothing in. exchange but muskets,
powder, or other ammunition. These articles must retain
their yalue on account of the continued state of hostility in
which the natives live. Whale's teeth are not valued, unless
they are of the enormous size of three fingers' breadth in
diameter. . The teeth of the black fish and seals are also of
some value when they are strong and well sorted. Hatchets,
and some other utensils are in request, but iron, in general, is
not much esteemed. Handkerchiefs, blue and white linen,
are in fashion, chiefly among the women. They have also the
usual predilection of their sex for looking-glasses. Plumes of
feathers, especially red ones, are much sought after.
All these articles, however, are only accessaries in the traffic,
the basis of which is arms and powder. The comparative
value of these articles with respect to sanders wood has declin
ed ; a musket some time ago was worth a ton of wood. The
following are the terms on which we concluded our bargains.
For one musket, 500 lbs. of sandal wood ; for two pounds and
a quarter of powder, 200 lbs.; for a hatchet, 45 lbs. ; a whale's
tooth, 200 lbs. Of these last we disposed only of the finest, and
there were none of a large size among those which we had
received at Callao.
There is reason to distrust the whites who are met with in
these islands, most of them are deserted sailors, who have all
the vices of civilization, though without the advantages of
education. Notwithstanding their small number, they do not
a little contribute to make the Indians lose the good qualities,
which still distinguished them at the close of the last centuiy,
according to the reports of navigators of that period. I make
an exception in favour of Ross, who was sent to these islands
by Mr. Wilcock, consul of the United States at Canton, to

54 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
facilitate the traffic in sanders wood, ,to the vessels of his
nation. According to the accounts of Mr. Ross, the natives, only a
very few years ago, were still such as they are represented by
Quiros, Marchand, &c. Their moral character has since
greatly changed, for it is incontestable, that mildness and hu
manity were the basis of their character, before their inter
course with the Europeans. Ross, who had better opportu
nity of knowing them than any other, does them this justice.
' But a few years have made a deplorable change in all the
island. Even at Wahitou, the sons of those whom the sight
of the blodli of their countrymen had not induced to any ex
cesses towards the imprudent strangers whom they might
consider as his assassins, perfidiously seized, in 1815, an Ame**
rican boat, the crew of which they massacred and devoured ;
for, notwithstanding the mildness of their manners, the inha
bitants have long been cannibals. They are, certainly, the
finest race of men I have ever seen, as well for their lofty
stature and fine figures, as for their personal strength. None
are ever deformed. I observed among them some marked
differences in the colour of the skin, the features of the face,
and the hair ; but those who were so distinguished were not
sufficiently numerous to give reason to suppose that there aie
two races. Some were a pale black, others are less tanned
than many natives of Provence. The women are of the ordi
nary stature, pretty, and very well made ; they are incli-t
ning to plumpness, their countenances lively and agreeable,
and they have most beautiful teeth. There are some whose com
plexion would not be thought dark in the south of France, and
they take the greatest care to preserve it ; they never go out of
doors during the great heat, and if they are obliged to expose
themselves, they shade themselves from the sun with their fan,
and the stuff in which they envelope themselves. Though I
am an admirer of them, I cannot agree with Quiros, when he
gives them the preference to the beauties of Lima, who, to
the perfection of form, add the charm of more delicate fea
tures, and a more intelligent physiognomy. However, the por
trait which our French navigators give of them is not too
highly flattered.
The men generally wear a piece of stuff, extracted from the
bark of a kind of mulberry-tree, wh'ich they wrap several
times round the waist. Some of the islanders, but they are
the petits-maltres of the country, wear a piece of cloth, in
the manner of a mantle, like the women. In cool mornings,
some wrap themselves up in the mats, which they sleep on.
They shave the head from the middle of the forehead to the

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 55
nape of the neck, and, on each side of this stripe, which is
about an inch broad, they wear the hair tied up in a kind of
bow, and the ends floating on their shoulders. On great oc
casions, they adorn their heads with a diadem of feathers, of
cock's tail, or other birds. At Oevahoa we saw a chief with
a diadem of tortoise-shell, incrusted with ivory and mother-
of-pearl, in pretty good taste.
The dress of the women, consists of a girdle coming down
to the knee, and a large piece of stuff, with which they cover
their shoulders, and which falls rather lower ; but they use it
only when they go out of their huts, for at home they lay it
aside. • On extraordinary occasions they use a verjfcfine hand
kerchief, of which they make a cap, that sits close to the head,
and hides the hair. The corners, which are turned back, form
a kind of bow, which completes this very becoming head
dress. Few of them have long hair ; almost all have it cut
short, even with the shoulders. They often wear necklaces
made of little bunches of flowers, small cucumbers, &c. They
have -also, for particular occasions, necklaces of seals'- teeth,
and ear-rings made of whale's-teeth. The largest are the
handsomest; there are some above two inches in diameter, but
those usually worn are not above half that size. Glass beads
and bugles are out of fashion. Some women hang round their
necks ivory, shells, and coral of various shapes, often in the
form of a large tooth.
The men have beards like the Europeans, but they never
preserve them entire. Some wear mustachios, some only a
few scattered hairs, but most pull them out.
Among other singularities of these people, a man is not al
lowed to wear, or even to take up, any part of a woman's
dress, or the mat upon which she sleeps. No individual of
either sex is permitted to sit down upon a pillow, which the
women alone have the privilege of using. They believe that
a violation of these customs is punished by disease or death.
They have akind of superstitious respect for the hair of the
head ; I saw a woman carefully pick up and swallow some,
which she perceived on the ground : Ross told me it was their
custom. They do not like strangers to touch their children's
hair. When friends meet they touch noses, but this is a testi
mony of friendship which is very rarely given, and I received
this mark of kindness only from my friend Rok<?. I saw very
few persons who were tattooed, according to a regular design ;
it should seem that, in the face especially, they avoid symme
try, and like contrast. It is seldom that both hands are tat
tooed, and still more seldom that they are both done in the
same manner. The women, in general, tattoo only the hands

56 'Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
and feet, but there are some that have a circle on the lobe of
the ear, in the middle of which is the hole for the ear-ring.
Many women are also marked with a kind of epaulette, or they
have on the arms or thigh the figure of a lizard or a fish.
Some Americans informed me, that they had seen at Magdalen
Island, a woman of lofty stature, who was tattooed from head
to foot, like the men. Those whose tattooing is of the. same
pattern, or alike in the principal features, such as "a particular
mark upon the nose, over the eyes, &c, form a kind of asso
ciation or fraternity, and assist each other in time of need,
like our freemasons ; the choice of the tattooing is, there-.
fore, an in^iortant affair. .Ai
These islanders seldom resist the temptation which the
sight of any valuable article excites in them, and it is, there
fore, very dangerous to expose them to it. The young women
whom we received on board, and not only those of the lower
classes, but even those of the highest rank, made no scruple
of committing thefts, even after having received presents, with
which they seemed quite satisfied. Among other things, they
one day carried off my hat, with two or three books, which
had been put in to stretch it : they were fond of taking books,
for the sake of the paper, of which the natives make car
tridges. In general, it is now very imprudent to venture on
shore any where, except at Taia-Hoy (Port Anna-Maria), and,
even there, the islanders always steal when they have an op
portunity, but, at least, they use no violence. They do not
think stealing dishonourable ; and this action, which is infa
mous amongst us, fixes no disgrace upon the individual whp
has committed it, unless he is caught in the fact ; he is then
looked upon as a bungler, and that is all. If the lawful pro
prietor finds his property in the hands of the thief, or else
where, he has not the right to take it back, and he can only
recover it by clandestinely taking it in his turn. What is still
more surprising than this want of police, is, that quarrels very
seldom ensue ; and the people have naturally so much mild
ness in their character, that murders never happen on these
occasions. According to the testimony of Ross, and what I
saw myself, no chief has sufficient authority to cause stolen
goods to be restored. The only means is, to arrest the robber,
or one of his relations, or even one of the chiefs ; and the
restitution of the property is to be ascribed to the attachment
borne them/ and not to their authority.
I must say, to the praise of these islanders, that assassination
is equally unknown among them, unless it be inspired by the
spirit of vengeance, or of party, which brings it within the
class of homicides, authorized by the law of nations in a

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 5*7
countuy Where every one has the right to make war on his
neighbour. On the other hand, it must be confessed, that, for
some time past, there is not an island, the inhabitants of which
have not been guilty of the greatest excesses towards stran
gers. The introduction of fire-arms, lessening their fear of the
whites, and their ideas of their superiority, has produced an
unfortunate change in their manners ; and, when their inte
rest is concerned, they do not hesitate to murder a stranger.
The inhabitants of Taia-Hoy are an honourable exception to
this remark, though several murders have been committed
there ; but, if the natives have sometimes laid aside, the natu
ral mildness of their character, they have been impelled to it
by revolting conduct, or by perfidious insinuations. We our
selves have traversed these valleys, carrying with us articles
highly valued by them ; we shewed them openly, without ex
periencing any trouble or running any danger : it is to be un
derstood, however, that they steal every thing that is not well
secured. Except at Carnicobar, in the Bay of Bengal, I have no where
seen a picture of happiness comparable to that **yhich this
country exhibited. Nature lavishes on its fortunate inhabi
tants every thing that is neeessary ; and what is no less happy,
she has given to their country no fictitious riches, none of those
precious productions which are sought after by civilized na
tions, and which often bring misfortune upon the country
where they are to be found. Their habitations are surrounded
by cocoa and bread-fruit trees, which require no attention,
and which afford wholesome, abundant* and agreeable food,
while the trunk, bark, and leaves supply them with materials
for their clothing and habitations. The Marquesas being-
much more healthy than the Nicobar Islands, their productions
more rich and. more various, their inhabitants would, dpubt-
less, be more happy, if they did not diminish their domestic
felicity, by licentiousness of manners and propensity to theft.
This vice, which is not repressed by any fears of autho
rity,- induces them to steal the fruit, which does not grow high
enough to be safe from their rapacity. Their mutual distrust
of each other prevents them from applying to the easy culti
vation of several wholesome vegetables, which grow in abun
dance in other islands, where there is a better police. It leads
them to use the precaution ' of gathering the bananas before
they are ripe, and even before they are full grown.
fhe only inhabited parts are those which are provided with
cocoa, and bread-fruit trees. These plantations are almost
always due to nature, the natives seldom taking the trouble to
plant these precious trees, in places where they do not grow
Voyages and Travels, No. LIV, Vol. IX. I

58 Roquefeuil's Voyage round ihe World.
spontaneously. The lands are private property: the chiefs
have considerable estates. They generally reside on the sea
shore, and let out the lands situated in the upper part of the
valleys, for a small rent, paid in the produce of the soil. The
will of the two parties alone determines the duration of the
lease. The proprietors, as may naturally be supposed, have
much influence over the farmers, who may be considered as
their vassals ; but this voluntary vassalage is an interchange
of good offices between the chief and his farmers. This is the
principal source of the authority of the chiefs, for, otherwise,
they have no influence in their valleys and in their tribes, ex
cept such as bodily or moral qualities confer among equals.
But there is, in reality, no public authority ; no one owes an
account of his actions to any person whatever; and he who
in any manner injures another, has no fear, except from the
person injured, or from his friends. Men possessing but little
land, are often seen to enjoy more respect and influence than
some chiefs ; for instance, Ross's friend, Agomohiti. The chiefs
have no ornament, or mark of distinction, except in the manner
of wearing the hair. They do not adopt the custom of dividing
the hair, and shaving the head in the manner before described,
but only fasten it in a knot behind ; nor is even this distinction
exclusively reserved for them, for I saw some who, though not
chiefs, had preserved their hair entire.
The property of the land is not always secure to the posses
sors ; it sometimes happens, that the strong seizes on the
property of the weak ; a powerful relation on that of an infant
heir. I was witness to the difference excited by the unjust
claims of an uncle upon the estate of his nephew, son of the
deceased protector of Ross. A kind of family council had
been held early in the morning, which, however, decided no
thing. We arrived shortly after it broke up. Besides the
relations and friends, the inhabitants of that part of the valley
had assembled in divers groups ; almost all were armed with
their large clubs ; some had lances of a hard wood. They
disputed, and reproached each other at times, the dispute grew
warm, so that it appeared they were going to come to blows ;
but the whole passed over without bloodshed. The only blows
given were by an aunt of the child, to one of .his cousins ; the
latter had the worst of it : it was all over in a moment. This
Woman, who was young, and of tall stature, supported, as well
as her sister, the interest of her nephew ; both acted their part
very well in the midst of this confusion, and did not seem to
be out of their place. When the quarrel was at the highest,
several of the competitors were seen to beat down the bushes
With their clubs, as if to try the strength of their arms, or to

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 59
clear the field of battle. Some men and many women were
spectators, and remained, for the most part, at a little dis
tance. None of them, however, manifested any fear, in case
the parties should come to blows. The protectors of the in
fant being the greater number, his adversary appeared to relax
from a part of his pretensions. But, some days after, having
taken measures from which he expected more success, he
returned to the estates of his nephew. This new attempt was
not more successful than the preceding: Ross having col
lected in the night, without the usurper's knowledge, the par
tisans of his friend's son, the uncle did not venture to try the
chance of arms, and he was again driven from the land, of
which he now demanded only a part. His unjust projects having
completely failed on this side, he turned against one of his
brothers, older than himself, and blind, who, after having se
conded him in his attempt against their nephew, not being so
well supported as the child, was obliged to take refuge in a
corner of his estate, and abandon the rest to his younger bro
ther. It may be observed, that Keatonoui Porter, though first
,chief, took no part in these quarrels. The relations or friends
of the parties interested alone interfered. In the wars between
the tribes, the prisoners, without distinction of age or sex,
are put to death, and eaten, except those whom the priest
thinks fit to consecrate to the gods, anil who are buried, after
they are put to death. Neither women nor children are ever
present at these horrible repasts ; this privilege is preserved
for warriors, and young men who are already tattooed. In the
Civil wars between one valley and another, or between two
families of the same tribe, the prisoners are not eaten. I have
been convinced, by my own observation, that the children are
not only spared, but may pass in entire safety over the lands,
and before the door of the enemies of their father.
At the time of the great f£tes, all hostilities are suspended,
during the preparation, and for three days after their celebra
tion ; even enemies are well received ; and to cross the whole
•country they have only to say that they are going to the fete
of such and such a valley : they are hospitably treated ; they
share in the entertainments and the diversions, together with
the people of the tribe who pays the expense. They usually
go away in the night of the third day ; those, however, who
are detained for some hours beyond the time, are spared. The
inhabitants of Taia-Hoy treated those of the other villages as
enemies ; they killed and eat all those who landed on their
coast. It is but a few years since this state of permanent
hostility has ceased to exist : humanity o-wes this obligation to
the old chief Keatonoui, At present they are at war only

60 RoquefeuiVs Voyage round the World.
With Rahouga. The inhabitants of this isle are divided into
tWo tribes, between which the greatest animosity exists; ; Nu
kahiva takes part in their quarrels. The Hapas being the
allies of one tribe, and the Havans of the other, they make
expeditions, which are always injurious to the island. Each
party carries away the hogs, and the produce of the harvest;
belonging to his adversary, cuts down the cocoa and bread
fruit trees, in a word, commits all kinds of ravages.
Captain Porter, after having ravaged the country of the
Taipis, had obliged them to make peace with those of TaJa^Hoy,
who were inclined not to take arms again. But when the fear
of seeing the Essex return had vanished, the Taipis, who still
harboured resentment, re-commenced hostilities, by killing a
priest who had come among them without fearing any harm.
Now the greatest animosity appears to exist between the two
tribes. I did not learn that any important expedition had been
made against the Taipis, but small detachinents sometimes
pass the mountains, advance secretly into the thinly inhabited
valleys, and carry off the unfortunate individuals whom they
can surprise. They spare neither age nor sex; nothing can
save the victim from death, or hinder him from being devour-*
ed by his enemies. The priests alone can claim him in the
name of their Etouas, or gods. In general this kind of con
secration cannot save the life of the prisoner, only he is not
eaten, but buried near the huts where the Fetiches are inter
red. I was told, as a fact without a parallel, that a young girl
had been preserved by a priest, who, after having kept her
some time with him, sent her to her own country.
Though these islanders have their priests, I could not dis
cover among them any worship, or any idea of a Supreme
Being. The Fetiches, which might at first be taken for idols,
are thrown carelessly about the huts, and no kind of venera
tion is shewn them. All that I could discover relative to their
belief, is, that the chiefs, and generally all those who have
been renowned in this life for their strength, or any other
quality of body or mind, enjoy the same advantages in an*-
other life.
The canoes are taboo for the women, who are forbidden to
enter them when afloat, and even to touch them when they
are hauled on shore. The taboo extends to the mats, out
riggers, &c. of their boats, though these things are often placed
in huts, or put under a shed. I was assured that this taboo
is in force through the whole Archipelago. From Marchand-s
account it seems not to have been adopted at Taouhata,. In his
time. It may have been introduced since, for it frequently has
a temporary and local existence. These interdictions take

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 61
place at the will of the priests ; but, to become general in
a tribe, the proposal they make must be adopted by the
chiefs. A priest declares that he has communicated with one
of his brethren, or with a chief, who is deceased, and become
an etoua in the other world, on account of the rank which he
filled in life. This spirit has announced to him, that the effects
of his anger would fall upon every individual who should eat
of a hog having a particular mark ; or any woman who should
touch any article belonging to the men. The animal, or the
article pointed out, becomes prohibited. These people have
the good sense to leave to their etouas the care of revenging
themselves, and of punishing those who infringe the taboo.
Hence, it often happens, that a sickness, or any misfortune
which happens to an individual, who does not scrupulously
observe the taboos^ is considered as a punishment from the
divinity. Many of these islanders die of old age, almost without
having experienced any of the infirmities with which it is fre
quently accompanied among civilized people. They are, in
general, carried off by a consumption, which slowly undermines
them without pain, till the approach of their last moments.
They employ no means to delay it, and do not seem to lose
by it ; at least, they have the advantage not to torment them
selves in vain. I saw several individuals attacked with this
disorder. They take to their couch, and expect the conclu
sion, almost without ever quitting their hut, and, at least, with
apparent tranquillity ; their relations are eager to provide for
their wants. When the disease has made some progress, they
begin to prepare for the funeral, and the coffin ; this is a large
-piece of the trunk of a cocoa-tree, hollowed out, in which the
deceased is exposed, without being covered up. The hut, also,
in which the body is to be deposited, is begun ; it is usually
adjoining to that which is inhabited by the family. All these
preparations are made under the eyes of the patient, to whom
they announce his approaching dissolution. These arrange
ments, the sight of which would be painful to us, are con
sidered by these islanders as proofs of the attachment of their
relatives, and certainly do not excite any painful sensations in
¦ them, for I have seen several, on such occasions, who did not
seem at all affected by these mournful cares. I have also seen
some men working at their own coffins, though they did not
seem likely to want them soon.
At the approach of death, all the arms in the house are
discharged ; the relations and friends of the same sex as the
deceased assemble round him. If he is a person of import
ance on his own account, or belonging to a great family, all

62 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
persons of a certain rank come together, I witnessed, at
Nukahiva, one of the scenesof grief ; these person whp was the
object of it, was the wife of the old chief Pahoutehe, sur
named the Elephant % for more than a year she had been labour-*
ing under a consumption, which seemed likely to carry her
off very soon. Forty or fifty women had assembled in the
house, in the middle of which they had placed the patient,
¦whogenerally occupied asmall separate apartment at one end.
All were clothed in white linen, dressed in their finest orna
ments, and, especially, with perfect cleanliness, the use of oil
and saffron being prohibited in these mournful ceremonies.
Her husband holding her right hand, and one of her sons the
left, they rubbed them gently, warmed them between their
own, and bathed them with their tears. There was a certain
concord in their lamentations ; all the female mourners did
not employ the same expressions, but they spoke in the same
tone, and terminated their verses simultaneously, with, cries
and groans in cadence, which stifled their voice. This exer?
cise being the more fatiguing, because it was a constrained
action in most of them, the performers were relieved from
time to time, and went on one side to recover from the fatigue
which this restraint had imposed upon them. Except the
hired mourners, the rest of the assembly seemed to be but
little affected; they chatted, and even laughed, as they would
have done any where else, only making less noise. This cpr
medy was repeated two successive days, and each time lasted
five hours. On the third day, the patient had recovered apart
of her strength, and, at the time of my departure, which was
above six weeks after, she still struggled with the disease,
which, in these countries, at least, has never medicine for its
auxiliary. The language of these islanders is soft, harmonious, flexible,
and easy to be pronounced. The great number of vowels of
which it is composed, gives it this advantage, which, however,
is common to the people who live between the tropics.
The inhabitants of Rahopou have the advantage above all
the other islands, of not having been troubled, for a long time,
by intestine wars. I know not whether it is to their own pru
dence that they owe the charms of peace : at least, it is certain,
that by virtue of a taboo, which has been long in force, the
exportation of sanders-Wood is forbidden. This regulation,
the natural effect of which is, to hinder the introduction of
fire-arms, with which navigators inundate the other islands,
is a proof how much this religious interdict, the only legisla
tion of the South Sea islanders, might contribute to their wel
fare, in the hands of wise depositaries, who, instead of the

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 63
frivolous and ridiculous use, often made of it, should know
how to employ it with address, for the interest and welfare of
their fellow countrymen.
But if the inhabitants of Rahopou are peaceable towards
each other, they are cruel to foreign prisoners whom chance
throws in their hands. The English brig, the Matilda, Cap
tain Fowler, being at anchor off this island, was plundered in
the month of April, 1815. Five natives of the Society Islands
who had been taken on board as sailors, had deserted a few
days before and joined the natives. Taking advantage of a
dark night and a nigh wind blowing towards the shore, they
cut the cables which held the ship ; the sea being very high,
it was thrown upon the coast, and filled with water. When
the natives saw that it was impossible to set it afloat again,
they resolved to massacre all the crew, which seems to be the
general custom of the islands of this Archipelago, when bad
• weather or any accident causes a foreign vessel to strand upon
their coast. Captain Fowler had happily acquired the friend
ship of the chief named Nouhatou, who presided in the kind
of tribunal which was to decide the fate of these unfortunate
sailors. He permitted without difficulty the plunder of the
Matilda, but would not consent to the massacre of the crew.
These unfortunate men perceived by the few expressions
which they were able to comprehend and the gesticulations
that were made, that their lives depended on the issue of the
debate of which they were the subject. Several chiefs, but
of inferior quality, strongly opposed Nouchatou ; it was only
by the most ardent solicitation that he could save this unfor
tunate crew from the fury of the barbarians. It is even re
lated that seeing all his prayers and arguments fail of making
an impression on the. assembly, he took a rope, and placing it
round his own neck and that of his son, ordered a chief, who
was nearest to him, to strangle them both : 'f that I may not
see," said he, " during my life, so infamous an action ; and
that I and my son may not be accused of sanctioning by our
presence the death of men who had never done us any harm."
So magnanimous an action excited the surprize and admira
tion of the savages, who remained a moment petrified with
astonishment, and then cried out unanimously, chief, chief,
let the strangers live, we will keep our chief. The lives ofthe
unfortunate Englishmen were saved, but the vessel was totally
pillaged. Having sailed from Nukahiva, on the 28th of February, we
passed the following morning by the Island of Heheaou, which
Ross had told me was occupied by a little colony from Nuka
hiva. These people not finding themselves comfortable at

04 Roquefeuil's Voyage roiiild the World.
home, (the northern part of the island) gave to an American,
a certain quantity of sanders wood to take them to an island,
with which he pretended to be acquainted, and of which he
doubtless gave them a picture very different from the rock on
which he left them. Their new abode produces only some cocoa
trees, but they also find some resource, in fishing. Though
they have indeed enough to keep them alive, they begged the
eaptairi of a ship which touched there,* to carry them back to
Nukahiva; but he had just come from it, and the situation of
these islands, to the leeward of the Archipelago, and still more
the want of wood to build boats, Will prevent these unfortunate
Indians from returning to their happy island, which they had.
the imprudence to leave.
From this time nothing remarkable occurred till our arrival
in the roads of New Archangel, Avhere we cast anchor on the
5th of April. Mr. Heigem'eister, captain of the Kutusoff, had
just taken the command of that place, which is the principal
settlement of the Russians in this partof the world belonging
to the North West Company. In my first interview with him
he gave me proofs that the kindness he had already expressed.
towards me at Lima and Saint Francisco, was not cooled now
that he was able to shew it in an effectual manner. He promised
to afford me all the assistance towards repairing the unsuc
cessful commencement of our expedition, which he could
command without prejudice to the interests entrusted to him.
We concluded together an agreement to undertake the sea
otter fishery on our joint account. The principal stipulations
were that the company should furnish us with thirty baidares,
each manned by two Kodiak hunters, the whole under the
direction of two agents ; that the produce of the chace should
be equally divided, and that 200 piasters should be paid, as an
indemnity* for each hunter who should lose his life in an at
tack from the Indians. This arrangement seemed to me the
more advantageous, as the experience I had acquired the pre
ceding year , allowed me but small hopes of success in traffic-
ing for furs with the Indians in exchange for our goods, which*
were badly chosen ; and' as the contingency, in which I was
bound to an indemnity, had been for several years of rare occur
rence. We were also authorized to place, free of expense, in
the company's warehouses, the sanders wood and other things
which could be of no use during the expedition.
My departure for port Saint Paul, in the island of Kodiak,
where we were to take the hunters on board, was retarded by
the necessity of examing the copper sheathing, which was de
cayed. On the 21st I went to visit an Indian establishment
in one of the little islands, fiye or six miles to the north-west

Roquefeuil 's Voyage round the World. th
of New Archangel. I made this excursion in a baidare for
three persons, which- was given me by order of Mr.' Hcige-
meister. One of the Kodiaks who accompanied me had been
some time a prisoner among the Spaniards at Saint Francisco,
and spoke the language tolerably. His residence at that place
had given him a certain predilection for the" country and its
inhabitants, which is very natural if we compare the rude
climate, and the laborious life of the Kodiaks in their OWri
islands, and the other Russian settlements, with the tempera
ture of California, and the happy far niente which sheds its.
influence, more or less, upon every thing connected with the
Spaniards. We entered a cove which is almost wholly closed by an Is
land, on Which is situated an Indian village, consisting of about
twenty Wooden huts. The landing place being inconvenient,
the Indians, whom the sight of the baidare had drawn together,
to the number of fifty, lifted up the boat before I could get out
of it, and amidst loud cries, carried me to the hut of their
Chief who received me with hospitality, and ordered slices of
some kind of fat to be brought, which I tasted, and to my great
astonishment found eatable. He then presented me with two
kinds of fruit pies, one of a pretty agreeable taste resembling
currants, the other mixed with rancid fat which was execrable.
They were served iri china plates with knife and fork com
plete, and all tolerably neat. After he had consulted with his
Wife, the Chief presented me with four "small white martens'
skins, though he saw clearly from the trifling presents I had
made him that I had but little to give him in return. There
were about a hundred Indians in his hut Who behaved with
gi'eat propriety. The women seem to be treated with great
respect by the natives.
All our preparations being completed by the 1st of May, we
made ready to put to sea with the first breeze. Petrowsky,
the agent of the company, who was to direct the sea-otter
fishery, came on board with the pilot and a passenger for Ko
diak. Mr. Heigemeister came on board to take leave, and I
gave him a packet for France, which he promised to send by the
sloop which he was going to dispatch for Ochotsk. Our voy
age was sufficiently favourable, and we anchored in port St.
Paul on the 12th. The next day I went on shore to see the
chief of the establishment and Governor of the island, Mr.
Patarotch, who had the title of superintendant. He received
me very kindly, congratulated me on my arrival, through the
medium of an American who spoke Russian^ communicated
the orders which he had received in our favour, and expressed
himSelf ready to do all that depended upon him to dispatch
Voyages and Travels, No. LIV. Vol. IX. K

66 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
the baidares without delay, and to do any thing else that was
agreeable to me. The baidares were ready in consequence of
the orders previously given by the governor general. Nothing
was wanting but to collect them, which would require only a
few days. The two following days were employed in landing
the goods embarked at Sitka for this establishment.
During the remainder of the month we performed the ne
cessary operations for our expedition, got on board a sufficient
store of dry fish, train oil and tobacco, for the Kodiaks, and
also trunks to contain the furs. The carpenters made a spare
deck in the hold, and every thing was got ready to receive the
baidares as soon as they should be dry enough to be put on
board, which the rainy weather had not yet allowed. We began
to get them on board on the 29th, and were obliged to put them
through one of the windows. Twenty-two, which with some
difficulty could be got between decks, were disposed of in the
most convenient manner. On the 30th, most of the Kodiaks
belonging to the expedition brought on board their lances,
darts, and other apparatus for the fishery. I called the crew
together and prescribed the conduct they ought to observe
towards these peaceable but rather irritable people. I pro
hibited all intercourse except such as the service required,
all purchasing of effects, arms, &c. upon any pretence whatever.
We received a swivel, ten muskets, &c. for the expedition, and
set sail on the 1st of June.
Being unacquainted with the Russian language and that of
the natives, I could gather but little information respecting
Kodiak. The population is considerably diminished, since it is
under the dominion of the Russians, being reduced to twelve
or fifteen thousand souls. I was convinced by my own in
spection that the villages are thinly scattered, and that the
islands before the port, formerly occupied by a numerous
population, have now only three small villages. This diminu
tion is particularly ascribed to the ravages of the small pox.
This scourge had probably been checked sometime since by
the vaccine. The company employs in its civil and mercantile
administration, and in magazines, about thirty Russians, and
twice as many Creoles, children of women of the country.
The Russian company has the most absolute monopoly at Ko
diak, as well as in all the Russian possessions in this part of the
world. The measures which it takes to secure this monopoly,
added to the submission and the character of the natives, op
pose such great obstacles to smuggling, and allow so little hope
of profit, that it is not likely to be attempted. Under a less
exclusive system, fire-arms, powder, and other ammunition,
coarse woollens and cottons, and the most common carpen
ters' tools, would meet with an advantageous sale. One might

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 67
obtain in exchange otter skins, and other valuable furs which
the Kodiaks, if they were free, would dispose of to strangers,
as the Indians on the north west coast do, rather than deliver
them to the Russians at the price fixed by the company. The
Kodiaks are not allowed to have fire-arms in their possession,
though they are taught the use of them, and intrusted with
them, as a loan, to enable them to defend themselves against
the continental Indians.
On the 7th I was not able to take the latitudei ; but at noon
I made myself twenty leagues west half south of Cape Adding-
ton, on Prince of Wales' Island, and at half past seven in the
evening we saw land to the north-east half north, and at ten
saw the little eastern point of Coronation Island, which is the
most easterly of the Hazy Islands. Being at the northern limit
of the tract appointed for the otter fishery, I endeavoured to
find an anchoring place, which might serve as a station. I
steered so as to pass to the south-west of two islets, which are
very remarkable, notwithstanding the diminutiveness of their
size, on account of their detached position from the labyrinth
of breakers, rocks, and islets which line the bottom of the
gulf between Cape Addington and the Hazy Islands. We
had no sign of the five rocks which Vancouver places to the
south of the point of Warren Island, though we were within
a league of the position which the chart assigns them. I am
far from opposing my remarks to those of a navigator and
geographer, who is remarkable for his exactness ; it is possible
that the view of these rocks was concealed from us, though
the weather was then veiy clear. At two o'clock I left, two
miles to the east, the two islets, which are the north-west
extremity of this dangerous Archipelago, and which I shall
call Les Balises, and steered towards another island near the
south coast of the gulf, and separated from the group. Off
the east point of this detached islet we were observed by three
Indian canoes, which remained beyond musket shot, with every
mark of distrust, much more evident than that of the Indians
in the south. At length one of these canoes approached us,
and an Indian, who spoke some words of English, came on
board. He was from Kaigarny, a place much frequented by
the Americans ; he informed me that the brig Brutus, captain
Nye, was at Haniga, some leagues to the north, and offered to
conduct me thither. I preferred an anchorage which he point
ed out in a cove on the north-west part of Prince of Wales'
Island. After having reconnoitred it we anchored there, at
half past six, in twenty fathoms, We took, for the night, the
precautions usual on the south part of the coast.
As soon as the ship was moored, I conferred, through the

68 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
medium of Petrowsky, who spoke a little English, with the
chiefs of the expedition. It was agreed that they should go
out the following day to reconnoitre. The Indians had left us,
and, according to their custom, bivouaked during the night on
the sea coast. I had permitted the one from Kaigarny to sleep
on board, hoping to derive some advantage from him. He
had expressed much curiosity to know who we were, for our
flag was unknown to him ; and the sight of the Kodiaks and
their boat giving him reason to take us for Russians, it cost
us some trouble to undeceive him, and to convince him that
we were Frenchmen, a name which he knew only from our
muskets, brought by the Americans, the superiority of which
they appreciated.
On the 9th the long-boat was dispatched, under Mr. Fou
cault, with eight baidares, which had on board the chiefs of
the expedition, both Russians and Kodiaks, who went to exa
mine the great entrance to the east of our anchoring place.
Mr. Foucault went several leagues along the coast, without
seeing any traces of population. He met with spacious bays,
and an arm of the sea which extends farther than the eye can
reach, to the south. Though the weather was fine, the strong
breeze from the north was unfavourable to us, as the otters
seldom shew themselves when the sea is agitated ; we saw only
two, but the Kodiaks thought that they frequented this part of
the coast, and that it deserved to be tried.
The following day the twenty-nine baidares, each armed
with a pair of pistols and two daggers, sailed to begin the
fishery. I escorted them in the long-boat, but though we
proceeded a considerable distance, and the Kodiaks dispersed
among the winding channels of a group of islands, only a sin
gle otter was found. During our absence, four canoes of the
natives had come alongside, from which nothing could be
obtained but some fish, two beavers' skins, and some otters'
tails. The Indian from Kaigarny having been surprised at
the window of the great cabin, -talking to his countrymen,
was driven out, and left the ship with anger and resentment
painted on his ferocious countenance. On the return of the
hunters, the Company's agent solicited me to let them bivouac
on shore, near their boats, which, from the nature of the ma
terials employed in their construction, cannot remain ions in
the water without spoiling. These considerations, added to
the confidence which I thought I could repose in a man who
had that of his superiors, and who, in six years' residence must
have become acquainted with the country, and the genius of
the inhabitants, induced me to agree to his proposal. From
that time the Kodiaks passed the night on shore, under the

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
protection of a guard, commanded by an officer. They also
remained there during the day, if the weather was not favour
able to the fishery, which was frequently the case. The otters
appeared only in small numbers ; our hunters had obtained
only twenty-one skins. During the same time we had received
ten in exchange from the natives. At our arrival we had found
only five or six of these savages, who are always wandering
about in the fine season. Afterwards about thirty appeared,
of both sexes and divers ages, and their numbers afterwards
varied. On the 17th, in the morning, more Indians appeared
than on the preceding days, with a pretty considerable quan
tity of furs. They retired, as usual, at noon, to take their
repast, promising to return to barter the rest of the furs, of
which they had not yet disposed. None of them, however,
returned in the evening. The following day only a single
canoe appeared, which landed at the back of the cove, without
stopping at the ship. This sudden disappearance of the natives^
after the prornise they had made the day before, exciting my
suspicions, I resolved to recall the Kodiaks, who were in their
bivouac, the weather not having permitted them to go out :
but not supposing there was any thing to fear from the Indians
during the day, the camp being within musket shot of the
ship, I deferred the execution of my intention till the even
ing. Meantime I went on shore to visit the environs of the
camp, where I generally made an excursion about 5 o'clock.
I intended also to watch for the hour of high water, the moon
being full. I immediately sent back the little whale-boat ;
some Kodiaks took this opportunity to return on board. Per
ceiving that the tide was already very high, I put off, till the
hour of high water, my intended excursion about the camp,
and walked towards the bottom of the cove, along the beach,
watching the tide. After going two or three hundred steps, I
crossed an Indian, who stopped a moment, stepping aside to
make way for me, and said, smiling, some words which I did
not understand, and could only reply by nodding my head. A
, stick appeared to be the only weapon he had. A few minutes
after my attention was roused by a musket shot on the side of
the camp, which I thought at first must have been fired by the
Kodiaks who had that morning practised firing with pistols,
but this first shot Was immediately followed by a discharge,
after which the fire, though less constant, was continued with
some briskness. Judging then it must be an attack of the
Indians, my first impulse was to turn towards the camp, but
seeing the Kodiaks fly without resistance, I thought that my pre
sence could be of no use, and that I had only to provide for my
personal safety, which the encounter I had just had rendered

70 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
more precarious. I called the boat which had put me on
shore, and had not yet reached the ship, but in the confusion
I was not heard. After having waved a handkerchief to make
myself observed by the ship, for it was dangerous by calling,
to let the savages know where I was, I undressed by the
bushes, which lined the beach. Some moments after, having
again waved my handkerchief; I threw myself into the sea,
with my watch between my teeth.
Meantime, the ship fired upon the Indians, and sent out the
long boat, which,, having first steered towards the camp, turned
aside on perceiving me, and reached me when I was still near
the shore. It was immediately received by a veiy brisk fire,
Avhich it returned with its blunderbusses and muskets. As
it came up, I made an ineffectual attempt to get into the
boat, in which I perceived that several men were wounded.
Not choosing to detain the boat under the fire made upon it
by the Indians, who had come up in great numbers, under
cover of the bushes, which I had just quitted, and not seeing,
in this part, any Kodiak to assist, I ordered Mr. Partarieux, who
commanded the boat, to stand off, without losing time to take
me in. I kept by the side of the boat, which rowed off, firing
towards the camp ; it afterwards took me on board, and I
found four men wounded of the seven who composed the
crew. Two were wounded but slightly ; but most , of the
ammunition was consumed, and the boat was incumbered
with casks. Under these circumstances, I did not think fit to
return into the fire, and I made it steer towards the ship, which
we reached at half past one. It continued to fire towards the
places from which the fire of the natives came, who kept
themselves constantly under cover from the wood, by means
of which they had approached within pistol-shot, without
being perceived, and had suddenly attacked the Kodiaks, who
had thought themselves perfectly secure. The two whale*-
boats being ready when I arrived on board, I dispatched them
under the orders of Mr. Foucault, to take in such of these
unfortunate people as might have been able to escape the fury »
of the first attack, either by throwing themselves into the
boats, or by concealing themselves in cavities of the rocks,
which line the beach. Mr. Briole took out of several bai
dares, which were full of water, being pierced with shots,'
seven men, of whom four were wounded, and one dead. The'
great whale-boat having gone to take in a Kodiak, who was
seen among the rocks to the north of the camp, saved seven
others, who crept successively out of the same hole, where,
under other circumstances, three men would hardly have
found room. Our boats went to take the fugitives on the

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 71
shore itself, or at a very small distance from it, as it were, under
the muskets ofthe Indians. Though supported by the fire ofthe
ship, I regard it as an effect of Providence that they experienced
no loss. This success amidst the disasters of this day, was
owing to the devotedness and coolness of the officers in fid-
filling a duty equally sacred and dangerous, and to the conduct
of some brave men who voluntarily accompanied them.
At three o'clock the long boat, under Mr. Foucault, and a
whale boat, under Mr. Partarieux, rowed along the coast at a
small distance, to pick up the Kodiaks who might have saved
themselves on this side, but they returned at four without hav
ing seen. any. -Meantime the Indians fired at intervals on the
ship, which immediately discharged its cannon towards that
part of the shore from which the firing came. Some of them
came singly about the baidares to plunder, but retired on the
first musket shot. Their presence was not very alarming, but
the certainty that they were concealed in a position where
every thing was in their favour, did not allow us to go on shore
to take away the baidares and bury the dead. As for the
wounded, besides the natural cruelty of the savages, the sight
of the ground but too clearly proved that none of them were
alive. Before night the deck was cleared of every thing that
might hinder the working of the guns, and the long boat was
completely equipped. During the whole night five or six guns
were fired every hour to keep off the savages. They returned
only one musket-shot at half past ten.
On the morning of the 19th some natives still showed them
selves, both about the baidares and at the back of the cove.
The long boat and a whale boat were sent under the command
of Mr. Foucault, accompanied by the second agent. They
ascended the west side as far as the point ; the agent called
from time to time, in the Kodiak language, in order to draw
from their retreat those who might have found refuge in this part ;
but no voice answered to the call, which must have made the
fugitives come forward if any had existed. Mr. Foucault saw
" at a great distance, three canoes which seemed to come from
the entrance and to steer to the north-west ; he returned on
board at three o'clock. As every thing indicated that the
main body of the Indians had retired, Mr. Foucault was again
sent, at six o'clock, to bring back the baidares. All means
was taken to secure his retreat in case of attack, and to prevent
surprise. He did not go on shore till he had reconnoitred all
the environs of the landing place. Our boats brought back
eighteen baidares. Some arms were also collected, and nine
teen Kodiaks were counted dead in the camp or on the shore
at a small distance. They had all been killed by musket-

72 Roquefeuil's Voyage found the World.
shot ; most of whom had been struck by several balls, which
must have been fired point blank. Some pistols being found
discharged, proved that some of these unfortunate people had
defended themselves ; among these, according to the report
of the fugitives, was the interpreter, a young Creole of a very
lively and intelligent disposition, who, after having fired his
pistol, seized a pike, when he received a ball in his breast.
Of forty- seven Kodiaks who were in the camp at the moment
of attack, twenty Were killed, twenty-five escaped by swim -
ming or were picked up by our boats, whieh made forty-five
whose fate was known. There remained only two whose fate
was doubtful, probably they were drowned, for one of the baidares
had upset, and the barbarity With which the Indians had killed
the women did not admit of the supposition that they had been
made prisoners. Of twenty- five who escaped twelve were
wounded, most of them very seriously.
Mr. Foucault was sent on shore on the 21st with four men,
under the protection of the long boat, to bury the unfortunate -
victims of the ferocity of the Indians. The Kodiaks would
not go to perform this pious duty to the remains of their fel
low countrymen ; they did not appear to be at all affected*, at
their death, and behaved on this occasion with the most dis
gusting insensibility. A young man who had the misfortune
to lose his father and brother, did not shed a tear nor shew
any signs of grief. These people have a degree of obduracy
such as I never met with elsewhere ; they seem to reserve for
the chace and fishery, all the intelligence and vivacity that
nature has given them.
Wishing to recover the baidares and arms which were still
wanting, I went in the whale boat to make an excursion in
the cove. I landed first near the camp, where there remain
ed only some pikes and a few articles of little importance,
belonging to the Kodiaks. I saw in the wood, a hundred ahd
fifty paces from the shore, the dead body of an Indian, which
had been discovered the day before, and which I recognized
to be one of those who had most frequently visited us on board. '
He still had on a waistcoat and trowsers which he had received
from us, and over them a blue great coat. His countrymen
had seated him under a tree, with his back towards the sea ;
except the upper part of the head he was entirely covered
with moss, in which they had stuck a branch, which rose
over his head. I then went to the bottom of the cove,
where on the south-west, we saw the remains of two extin
guished fires, and found near them, under a tree, a baidare for
three persons, in good condition. I went up the beach with
some men as far as the camp, but without discovering any

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 73
other object of our search. I was astonished at finding on
the place where I had undressed on the I8th, the trowsers,
and other effects, which I had left there. Of the thirty bai
dares belonging to the expedition, only one was wanting, which
the. Indians might easily have concealed.
I landed a second time on the east side, with two men, in
the little whale boat, under the pretence of seeing the wood,
which had been cut before the affair, but, in fact, to dispel the
panic terror which had seized some of my sailors, at the dis
tant report of two musket-shots. Convinced that a longer
stay would be equally useless to the interests of the expe
dition, and those of humanity, I resolved to quit this fatal
spot as soon as the wind would allow, intending to go to New
Archangel, to replace the arms of the hunters, lost on the 18th,
repair the baidares, and land the wounded. The next day we
weighed anchor early, and tacked several times to get out, but
without making any progress, notwithstanding the aid of the
boats, as the breeze was very faint, and at nine o'clock I was
obliged to anchor in nine fathoms, only half a cable's length
from the watering place ; I had the sheet anchor carried out
tp the north-west, with a hundred fathoms of line, to relieve
us from this bad position, where the Indians might alarm us
with advantage, under cover of the wood, which we had in
the rear ; at the same time, we took measures to receive them.
Three canoes had appeared at day-break, near the island, at
the entrance, and after having remained for some time on the
watch, landed near the eastern point, from wliich some Indiaris
came to the camp, along the sea- shore. With horror we saw
them disinter their victims, to plunder them of their mise
rable spoils. We fired some cannon-shot at them, which they
returned, by firing their muskets at tbe boats, which carried
out the warp. We set sail at four o'clock, and at length quitted
this fatal cove, directing our course to New Archangel.
Desiring to ascertain the disposition of the Kodiaks, who,
since the catastrophe of the 18th, appeared struck with ter
ror, I proposed to the agent, to send some baidares to make
an excursion, in sight of the ship, after we had come to an
anchor, on the 24th, not far from Les Balises, upon the break
ers of which we were nearly carried by the current, our
Kodiaks gave a proof of good will, or of submission, on this
occasion. Of ten baidares, only four were found in good con
dition, and departed, under the escort of the great whale boat,
steering north-west, towards the Coronation Island. I set
sail at nine o'clock ; the signal for rallying was hoisted, and
our hunters returned at half past eleven. They had taken a
large otter, the liver of which we eat, and found it very good;
Voyages and Travels, No. LIV. Vol. IX. L

74 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
On the following morning, one of the Kodiaks, wounded on
the 18th, died.
At three o'clock in the afternoon of the 26th, we doubled the
island, which forms the south-east extremity of Sitka, and
entered the bay, which was covered with a thick fog. We
fired two guns as a signal for a pilot, who came on board at
seven o'clock. I sent the governor a parcel, with an account
of the catastrophe of the 18th. About an hour after,, the boat
belonging to the port arrived ; it was armed, as w^ell as the
whole crew, the natives having killed two Russians, in the
very sight of the settlement. We anchored at nine o'clock,
in eight fathoms. I immediately went to the governor, whom
I found much affected at our common misfortune, but still
full of kindness, and inclined to do every thing to enable us
to repair our losses. His good will was manifested by the pro
posal he made me, to join the hunting party, which he had
just sent out, with all the baidares I could equip, if the Ko
diaks would consent to go out again. I did not hesitate to
accept this offer, which, considering the chances of success
that long experience had given to the Russians, made me con
ceive the hope of making good, by the produce of the chace,
the indemnity to which I was bound for the Kodiaks who
were killed, and to do it with less danger than if it were re
duced to our own. resources.
Mr. Heigemeister spoke to me of the hostility of the Indians,
who seldom let the fine season pass, withwut giving reasons
for alarm. The great quantity of berries which they find in
the woods, and the abundance of fresh water fish, securing
them an easy subsistence, they are enabled to employ, in the
gratification of their malevolence, the time which, in other
seasons, they are obliged to devote to procuring food. The
surgeon of the Kutusoff came, on the 27th, to fetch the
wounded Kodiaks, eleven ih number, and conveyed them on
shore. The baidares were sent to the arsenal to be repaired.
It was my intention to go out the next day ; the baidares were
ready, and the Kodiaks, persuaded by Mr. Heigemeister, were
disposed to go on this new expedition to try their fortune with
their countrymen.
In the morning, Mr. Foucault informed me, that the crew
expressed some repugnance to go out again with the baidares.
When I went on deck, sometime , after, the greater part de
clared their opinions, through the medium of the armourer ;
the sailors grounded their refusal on the fact, that the kind
of service, which the protection of the baidares required, was
not mentioned in the engagement signed by the crew, and that
the men who might be disabled had nothing to expect from

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World, J&
the owners. I thought it my duty to employ persuasion, and
the impression which the few words I addressed to them,
seemed to make, induced me to hope I should prevail upon
them, I was however astonished to see among them those on
whom I principally depended, and who had given proofs of
zeal on the 18th. My hopes were not realized ; the motives
of duty, honour, and even interest, which I urged in the man
ner best calculated to stimulate them, could not encourage
these people who were struck with terror. Symptoms of this
weakness had appeared at Kowalt, even after the affair. This
disposition of their minds had been increased by the state of
alarm in which we had found the Russian colony, in conse
quence of the murder of two Russians, who had been killed
by some Indians in sight of the colony, and by the exaggerated
accounts given by some officers of the strength and former
success of these savages. The means of persuasion having
failed, and it being quite out of the question to undertake a
service which would continue some months, with persons ill dis
posed towards it, Iyieldedto necessity, renounced the execution
of the project concerted with the governor, and resolved" to
employ immediately the only resource which I had left, name
ly, to visit the straits and trade with the ill-assorted cargo that
I had still to dispose of.
July 2d the Kutusoff sailed for California with Mr. Heige
meister, leaving Mr. Yanovsky as his deputy : his intention
was to procure a cargo of corn, and probably to make some
final arrangements with tne Spanish government. I intended
to sail as soon as the pilot, who was also on board the Kutusoff,
should return : he did not come back till the following day,
and we had the mortification of being detained by contrary
winds and calms till one o'clock in the morning of the 6th of
July, when we got out with a slight breeze. The pilot left us
as soon as we were beyond the shoals, and at eleven o'clock
we doubled Woodhouse Point. It was my intention to
double Cape Tchirikoff, sailing along the west coast of King
George's Island. 1 proposed to visit the Straits to the east of that
island, where furs are abundant, after having conferred with
Captain Young, of the Company's brig the Finland, who con
voyed an expedition that had lately sailed, from whom I hoped
to obtain useful information.
At day^break on the 8th, the south-east part of Admiralty
Island, and the entrance of Frederick's Sound, were in sight
to the north, but very indistinctly on account of the mist.
The north part of the eastern coast of Christian Sound being
clear, I had approached it, that the current might be more
favourable ; for in this strait, as well as in Chatham Strait, of

76 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
which it is only the prolongation, the flood sets north, and
has more strength on the east side, and the ebb sits south and
is stronger on the west side. At nine o'clock we saw several
baidares to the north, under Gardener Point of Admiralty
Island ; some of them came up to us. The Kodiaks told us
that the main body of the squadron to which, they belonged,
was in Frederick's Sound, and that the Finland and a schooner
were in Port Cambden. I took on board a Kodiak who knew
their anchorage, and desiring to see Captain Young, I entered
the sound, and perceived the Finland under sail ; the wind
being very faint I got into the great whale boat to go on board
the brig, which I overtook off port Cainbden. Captain Young
gave me but vague information respecting the trade of this
country ; he had not been fortunate in his fishery, his seventy
baidares had taken only four hundred otters. The expedition
which he commanded, had not been .attacked by the Indians.
Those of Kekh appeared only once to the number of thirty-
seven, in two large canoes ; but the Kodiaks, though distant
from their escort, rendered bold by a long residence in this
country, had remained firm, and awed the Indians, who in
timidated at seeing the baidares form a circle round them,
contented themselves with proposing that they should exchange
hostages. The Kodiaks having referred the decision of the
affair to the commander of the expedition, the Indians retired
without committing any hostilities. At. five o'clock in the
afternoon I returned on board with Captain Young, and the
three vessels, proceeded to leave the Sound. I steered for
Chatham Strait, which I entered with a slight breeze from
the south. At day-break on the 9th we fired a gun and hoisted
American colours, these being the best known by the savages
of this coast. At six o'clock we saw a canoe coming from the
west coast ; we lay to for it to come up to us ; after some
hesitation one of the Indians came on board, where he re
mained half an hour, examining every thing with the greatest
attention, with all the signs of distrust usual among these
people. He had nothing to dispose of and appeared to come
only to reconnoitre. Till we met this canoe we had seen, for
thirty leagues along the coast, on both sides of the straits,
nothing which indicated that the country was inhabited. I
approached the east coast, where I knew the village of Houts-
nau is situated. In, the middle of the channel we were visited
by two canoes, one of them was recognized to be the same
which had visited us this morning. He had a pretty fine otter
skin to sell, which we obtained in exchange for powder. They
soon after quitted us, and another canoe, coming from Houts-
nau, came along side. An Indian, of a ferocious countenance,

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. T]
but dressed with a degree of pomp, came on board. He said
he was a chief of Houtsnau, and had made several cruises on
the coast, with the Americans. He seemed to be intelligent,
and to have a knowledge of the trade and navigation of the
Straits. Thinking that he might be useful to us, I gave him
the permission which he had desired, to remain on board. He
immediately sent away his boat, and made me a present of an
otter. skin, and a beaver skin ; in return for which I gave him,
also as a present, some powder, and a sword which had at
tracted bis attention.
, Though we were soon in a convenient situation to receive
the boats of the natives, and several appeared, only one came
alongside, and that had nothing but fish. As this confirmed
the assertion of Youtchkitau, that there would be no traffic if
the ship did not come to anchor, Mr. Foucault was therefore
sent to examine the anchorage in Hood-bay, which was pointed
out by the Indian who accompanied him, but he returned at
noon, without having found one, the pilot having conducted
him into the cove before the village of Houtsnau, where the
depth was too great. The wind being faint, and the sea calm,
as many as eleven canoes came out, one of them manned with
thirteen men, another with seven, and the others with a smaller
number, most of them armed with muskets. This sight revi
ved the fears of our cowards, whom the presence of several
women and children ought to have encouraged, if fear could
reason ; besides, the boarding- net was fixed up, and every
precaution taken before the number of canoes was consider
able. Some Indians were admitted on board, and among them
one of the principal chiefs of this countiy, named Katahanack,
and his son. Most of the canoes had brought furs, but the
natural distrust of these people being increased by the reserve
of our crew, they did not offer them for exchange. I retained
my position to the leeward of Houtsnau during the night, not
choosing to sacrifice, to the panic terrors of my crew, the ad
vantages which it afforded for the trade.
On the 11th the canoes came at 10 o'clock, but in small
numbers, and with few skins. The Indians repeated their
intreaties to bring the ship to an anchor, pretending, that at a
distance from shore, the slightest agitation in the sea incom
moded their canoes alongside, which was, indeed, evidently
true. Mr. Foucault was therefore sent, at 6 o'clock in the
evening, to look for an anchoring place in Hood Bay, where
he found one that was tolerable, in which we cast anchor the
next morning. The ship was soon surrounded by canoes ; our
traffic went on briskly, and was not interrupted by any attempt
on the part of the Indians, whose behaviour afforded no serious

78 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
subject for complaint. None were admitted on board except
, those who had furs to dispose of, and some chiefs who dined
with us. I was satisfied with the conduct of Youtchkitau,
who on several occasions informed us of the measures which
it would be proper to take. Some changes in the wind brought
us into a position before the village of Houtsnau. While we
were there, the Indians hoisted a white flag, and the Russian
merchant flag, on a palissade, which appeared to be a defensive
work. We replied to this civility by hoisting our colours. I
was going to fire a gun, but Youtchkitau assured me that it
would cause alarm. We kept our position during the night, '
and at half past five in the morning arrived at Houtsnau. The
sea being calm, and all the circumstances favourable, several
canoes came out, with which we carried on a lively trade, in
the most amicable manner.
These two days had procured us forty-five otter skins, be--
sides other furs of less value. The greater part was paid for
in powder, at the rate of 12 lbs. for one otter skin. Here, as
at Nootka, the Indians found our woollen goods very bad : as
for the muskets, there were some among those of the French
manufacture which suited them, but they would not take the
Spanish muskets at any price. At this rate the powder which
we had remaining would not be sufficient to procure more
than about two hundred otter skins. Youtchkitau having
assured me that in Cross Sound, and in Lynn Channel, I should
find furs as cheap again as at Houtsnau, I resolved, by his
advice, to visit that part. We entered Cross Sound at three
o'clock in the afternoon of the 14th. Youtchkitau telling me
of an anchoring place on the north-east side of King George's
Island, I steered towards it ; but as we approached he appear
ed uncertain, and spoke of the rocks in the vicinity. We were
therefore obliged to seek another place, in which we did not
succeed that day. On the day following, our Indian pointed
out a passage between an island which he said was Kitghaka,
and a little island to the north- west, which would lead to the
anchoring place ; but, before we entered it, he frankly con
fessed that the fog had led him into an error, and that this
passage was too shallow. He then pointed out what he stated
to be the true channel, which We were unable to reach, having
fallen to leward. After dinner I sent Mr. Briole, with Yout
chkitau, in the whale-boat, to examine the anchoring place, -
which we so much desired to reach. Mr. Briole found it very
indifferent, and too near the coast, and I therefore determined
to quit this narrow channel, where we had tacked to no pur
pose the whole day, and to fall to leeward of the islands, where
we had plenty of room. The crew, which had been on deck

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 79
ever since four o'clock in the morning, till nine in the evening,
was at length able to take a little rest. The night passed in
manoeuvring to keep the ship at a distance from the islands
to the east of Kitghaka, towards which it was carried by the
ebb, of which I could not take advantage, for want of local
knowledge. I had no information respecting this part, except
that given by Vancouver, who represents it as a labyrinth.
On the 16th, at day- break, the tide was at the highest, and
soon turned. At five, we fired a gun to announce our arrival
to the neighbouring Indians. At two o'clock, a canoe from
the south, in which were two men and one woman, came
along side of us, but crossing, it was overset by the whale-
boat, in which the three Indians saved themselves. The whale-
boat was sent out to pick up the canoe and its effects. In the
evening, a young deer swam by the ship, and was picked up
by the whale-boat ; it was without a wound, and must have
been a very short time in the water. The flesh of this animal
was found excellent at the officers' table, and refused by the
crew, to whom I offered a part ; they said it was an animal
that died of itself.. This deer had probably leaped, when flying
from some enemy; from the top of the steep rocks, which
border this coast, the rudest I ever saw. We likewise saw a
humming-bird, which fluttered some time round the ship.
We afterwards proceeded to an anchorage, which had been
pointed out by the Indians belonging to the canoe, who
quitted us after they had repaired their vessel : I presented the
shipwrecked old woman with a grey blanket and a small look
ing-glass, which had to reflect the most hideous countenance
ever worn by a human creature.
At five o'clock, in the morning of the 17th, two miles from
the east of the island of Kitghaka, I dispatched Mr. Parta
rieux to reconnoitre the anchorage pointed out to us, which
he, in fact, found to the south-east. We steered towards it,
but the breeze having gradually fallen into a calm, we were
carried to the south by the current, and were obliged to cast
anchor, at ten o'clock, in twenty-eight fathoms, at less than a
cable's length from the shore; however, a breeze springing up,
we were enabled to weigh, and anchor in a better place to
wards the north-west point, two cables and a half from shore.
In the afternoon of the following day, several canoes came
with furs, which seemed to give much pleasure to Youtchkitau,
who was quite ashamed since our entrance into the canal,
where he had shewn himself such a bad pilot. At three
o'clock, a handsome canoe, with fifteen men on board, came
alongside. Recognizing Katahanack and his son, I invited

80 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
them to come on board, and they dined with us. The arrival
of these persons, and the reception I gave them, seemed to
displease Youtchkitau ; but he soon assumed the most friendly
manner, conversed with them, and listened with much atten
tion to a story they told him, at the conclusion of which he
broke out into execrations against the inhabitants of Ako.
Soon after, a large boat entered the bay by the eastern point.
The chief and his son immediately embarked in theirs, pre
pared their muskets, of which they had, in a trunk, more than
enough for all their men, and went to meet the new comers,
who advanced singing. When they came within a short dis
tance, they hailed the strange boat, which stopped, and that
of Katahanack immediately went alongside. The people in
the two vessels took their arms, they disputed violently for a
moment, one of the strangers was struck, and fell. His com
panions immediately yielded. Katahanack's people carried off
skins and muskets, and retired with precipitation through the
channel between the two islands. The canoe which had been
plundered came along side : it belonged to Ako, and had on
board fifteen men, and one woman, who steered. The wounded
man, who had been struck on the forehead with a dagger, by
the young chief, was dressed by Mr. Vimont. I made a present
to him and to the woman. Youtchkitau gave every sign
of lively indignation, when he saw the conduct of his coun
trymen ; it appeared to us, that he had been deceived by them.
Some hours after, he himself shewed as much avidity. The
possessor of a mantle of elk's-hide, refusing to let him have it
at his own price, he asked my permission to take it by force, a
proposal which I rejected with contempt.
Several canoes came out on the 19th, but fearing that they
might be plundered by the pirate Kutahanack, they brought
only furs of small value, except one otter-skin. This disap
pointment destroyed the hopes which had induced me to visit
this part, and I determined to leave the canal, and return to
Chatham Strait, which I had reason to regret my having
quitted. The bay to which the Indians gave the name of Koutikikakoa,
and to which, before I knew it, I had given the name of Bal
guerie, is formed by the two islands Kit and Kaka, the coasts of
which form an arc, cut into two by a channel of less than a
quarter of a league. This bay is a central position, where,
under circumstances less unfavourable than those in which we
were placed, furs may be received from Lynn Channel, and the
northern coast of Admiralty Island. Wood and water may
be procured at a small distance from the shore ; but here, as

Rpquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 81
well as on the whole coast, it is advisable to proceed to these
operations as soon as you arrive, not to give the Indians time
to contrive a surprize.
We sailed on the 20th, at eleven o'clock, and passed between
the two islands, on which we perceived ruins of habitations,
with an abandoned palisade. The wind was contrary on the21s.t,
and we made but little progress. A canoe came from Admi
ralty Island, which had only some small and indifferent skins
to dispose of. What gave me still less pleasure was, the news
of the arrival of a brig, which the Indians had seen to the
south. We entered Chatham Strait, and though the wind had
fallen in the night, we were, at six in the morning, opposite to
the village Houtsnau. We perceived the port towards the
north, and, near the village, a brig, which fired a gun, and
hoisted the flag of the United States; we hoisted ours.
A great number of Indians, with furs, came on the 22d, but
we had no dealings with them, the only article which they
demanded being powder, and I would not give the same quan
tity as I had done before, Youtchkitau having given me to un
derstand, that the rate was too high, and might be reduced,
by giving, instead, hatchets, and other iron instruments, of
which we had an abundance. The Indians quitted us before
nOon : I hoped they would come back, and proposed to relax
In my pretensions, rather than do nothing, but my expectations
were not realized. There remained alongside only the canoe
of Youtchkitau, who had brought one of his wives, his son,
an infant, and three of his brothers. I gave some trifles to his
wife and child ; Youtchkitau, after having long conversed with
his brothers, informed me of his design to return home, in
order to put a stop to the disorders which had been committed
by strangers, and which could not be prevented by his wives.
He made a long speech on this occasion, in which I clearly saw
his bad faith, his covetousness, and effrontery in asking. He
left me at six o'clock, taking, besides what I had given him
before, a littleassoitment, composed principally of hardware,
but not a douole-barrelled gun, which for some days had been
the object of his desire, and the theme of his importunities.
In order to conquer my resistance, he acted, at the moment of
his departure, the part of a wounded person : he pretended to
have had a fall, and uttered lamentable cries, saying that he
had fallen upon old wounds, with which he was, in fact, co
vered. Meantime, the brig had left the port, and advanced towards
us. We found that this vessel had sailed from Boston twelve
months before ; it was called the Brutus, and was commanded
by Captain Nye, who offered to accompany me to the port, if
Voyages and Travels, No. LIV. Vol. IX. M

82 Roquefeuil's Voyage round thp World.
it was my intention to anchor there. Hoping to obtain infor
mation, I went on board of her, with Mr. Vimont. Captain
Nye received me very kindly, and was surprised to find in these
seas, a vessel without a pilot, especially coming out of Lynn
Channel, which was the most dangerous on these coasts.
*c You have, doubtless, visited these coasts before, iri one of
our ships," said he. I replied in the negative. " But you
have some officer who knows them," " None." " How do
you manage then? How do you manage yourself ? I have
made three voyages to the coast as an officer, before I com
manded." "¦ One oi your countrymen first navigated these
seas without a guide, and I do the same."
We agreed to anchor in the south port, at the bottom of
Hood Bay, and to share the produce of the trade, as long as
we should remain together. In the morning of the 23d, the
Brutus sent her second officer to pilot us : she then took the
lead and we followed, along the south side of Hood Bay. At
eleven o'clock, we entered the port called Tchastichl by the
Indians, and Suddart Harbour by the Americans. But few
canoes visited the two ships, with furs of land animals only.
I passed the afternoon with Captain Nye, who was indisposed.
We chiefly conversed on the navigation of these coasts. He
had just gone round Admiralty Island, and had got only a
single fur.
Captain Nye. having resolved not to protract his stay in this
place, sent me four beaver-skins, being the half of the produce
of his traffic ; ours "r had been still more insignificant : he re
ceived in exchange some hard-ware. Ashe was still indis
posed, I went to see him before his departure. He gave me a
series of American papers, down to the month of October,
1817- We gave each other some provisions, of which neither
of ns had an abundance, and made some trifling exchanges.
In order to put an end to a competition, which, notwith
standing the insignificance of our resources, could not but be
injurious to him, Captain Nye proposed to me, to let him have
the remaining part of our cargo. Though experience had
proved the impossibility of turning to account a cargo so ill
sorted, I gave up all idea of an arrangement, when I learnt
that he was only authorized to give me in exchange skins of
land- animals. He advised me to go to Sitka, where I should
find Captain Davis, who had a share in several vessels, and had
more extensive powers than he had.
In order to strengthen the crew, which had still many sick,
I engaged two young men of the Sandwich Islands, out of four
that Were on board the Brutus.
We were shortly afterwards visited by Youtchkitau, who

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 83
brought on board two skins, of which he made me a present.
He made me along speech, from which I understood, that he
announced a great supply of furs for the next day. But this
information did not prove to be true; the few boats that came
had nothing but fish and small skins ; and Smed, a chief whom
I had known at Sitka, told me, that the majority of the Indians
had gone to the otter fishery, and would not return for several
days. This news destroying all the hopes of the success which
I had expected, after the departure of the brig, I resolved, in
expectation of the return of the Indians, to go and try my
fortune in Frederick Sound, where Captain Nye had made me
hope to find Indians of the Kekh tribe.
The weather for several days was variable, and, on the whole,
unfavourable, and it was not till the 29th, in the morning, that
we reached the entrance of Port Cambden : we fired two
guns to acquaint the Indians of our arrival. At one o'clock,
nothing appearing, we sent Mr. Foucault to look for an an
chorage under the islet, at the west extreriiity of the port.
At three o'clock, a canoe arrived, and, soon after, another
came from between the islands, which, without coming along
side, appeared to make enquiry of the first. Mr. Foucault re
turned, having found an anchorage, where we indeed cast
anchor, at five o'clock, in thirty-five fathoms water, in a spa
cious cove, formed by a number of little islands. Several ca
noes came, but as most of them, like that in the morning,
came to reconnoitre, we had, but few skins. One canoe, in
the morning, left us soon, to make a report to the chief, named
Tachahanak, who had sent it, of whom the natives spoke to
us, as a person of importance. The others did not quit us till
nine o'clock, and passed the night on the neighbouring islands.
The next day some canoes visited us, but they had only a few
furs ; and the Indians, who had more need of clothing than of
ammunition, found, like all the others, that our woollen goods
were good for nothing, though care had been taken to make
mantles of blue cloth, with trimmings and buttons. Meeting
several canoes, I returned on board sooner than I had intended,
for I had not much confidence in the natives of this district.
It was they who, at the beginning of the establishment of New
Archangel, had surprised a large party of hunters at Macartney
Point. Out of three hundred hunters, nearly two hundred
were killed or taken, the remainder Wandered a long time in
the woods, only a part were able to return to the colony, the
rest perished, or were made slaves. During my stay upon this
coast, one of these unfortunate persons, was brought back
by an American, who had ransomed him from the savages.
Taphahanak, one ofthe principal chiefs of the country whom

84 Roquefeuil's Voyage round, the World.
I impatiently expected, visited me ori the 31st, in a hand-*'
some canoe manned by six rowers, with his two wives, a child^
and his brother*, whom we had seen in the mornitag. This
personage made me a present of five skins, but what I offered
him in exchange for his generosity was not to his taste, and,
notwithstanding the collation he took, and the presents 1
made to his wives, we had some trouble to come to an agree
ment ; for not finding on board the articles that would have suit
ed him, he wanted eveiy thing we had. These two brothers had
an agreeable physiognomy, with a certain behaviour and com
parative cleanliness, which took from them a part of the savage
rudeness which characterizes the Indiaris of the north. They
were dressed entirely in the European fashion, except shoes.
The two women were also tolerably neat.
We quitted this place on the 1st of August, it being my in-'
tention to return to Houtsnau, where I hoped to obtain with
out a competitor, the produce of the fishery, which the Indians
must have collected during my absence. It was on the morn
ing of the 3d that we entered port Suddart, where we were
visited by our old friend Youtchkitau. He gave me a long
account, which I could not understand, of the war between
Katahanak and the people of Ako, of a brig anchored at
Kutzetll, inCross-Sound, and, lastly, of the bad success of the
fishery^ After, having spoken of the scareity of furs at Houtsnau,
he told me, that many might be had if I would pay for them at the
old rate, which I did not hesitate to promise. I was surprised
to find him in this place with his wives, where he had encamp
ed for some reason unknown to me. The canoes which came
on the 5th were not richer than those that came on the pre-:
ceding day; which had nothing to offer but fish and the skins
of land animals. Smed came in the evening, accompanied by
another chief, in a manner which gave us some hope. He
first presented me with two beaver skins, but he fancied this
generosity authorized him to make exorbitant demands. He
was not more moderate in treating for his friend, who had
three skins, of which we could procure only one for powder,
at the current rate. Smed, however, generally behaved with
propriety, and I permitted him to remain on board. Of all
the Indians of this coast none had so much mildness in his
countenance and manners : he was very intelligent, and appear
ed to be perfectly acquainted with the channels of the north
part. I learnt, however, from him, that but few otter skins
could be procured in this season of the year ; that they would
begin to come in December, and would be abundant in Feb
ruary. After this information, and what I $aw myself, I re
solved to quit this place as soon as possible. The only skin

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 85
which I received .this time was the sixtieth collected in the
strait, or, more properly, at Houtsnau.
We left port Suddart on the morning of the; 7th of August,
but the winds were remarkably contrary, so that we did not
reach Christian Sound till the evening of the 9th, and anchor
ed the following day in the outward port of Iknou. Early in
the morning of the next day we fired two guns to call the
Indians together, but though the weather was pretty fine only
one canoe appeared, which had nothing but fish. The officers
found on the north-west coast a little cultivated spot, where
there were still some potatoes. This discovery confirming my
opinion ofthe recent passage of Captain Nye, who had spoken
to me of this garden, induced me to resolve to make no longer
stay in this place, where there was nothing more to glean,
and, considering the little chance of success that remained on
this coast, I determined to sail to New Archangel, where, from
what Captain Nye had told me, I expected to meet with Cap
tain Davis, and to treat with him about the exchange ef the
rest of our cargo for furs.'
' We were off Woodhouse Point early on the morning of the
18th, but fogs, high winds, and calms, having detained us three
days, I left the ship at the entrance, and went in the great
whale boat to New Archangel. They had not yet heard of
Captain Davis, whose delay caused some uneasiness. After
dinihg with Mr. Yanovsky I went with him on board the Kam-
schatka frigate, which had arrived shortly before, and was
'commanded by Captain Golownin, who was not on board. I
was received in the most obliging manner by Mr. Moraview,
the first lieutenant. When we returned on shore we saw Mr
Golownin at the house of Mr. Yanovsky ; he received me with
equal kindness ; his interesting and instructive conversation
made the hours pass unperceived^ and when I rose to take my
leave, it being too late to go on board my own ship, I accom
panied Mr. Patouchkin on board the Okritie, a vessel belong
ing to the company, which he commanded. The morning be
ing foggy I did not reach my ship till eleven o'clock, and Ave
immediately got ready to stand out to sea. At ten o'clock at
night, under Cape Engano, we perceived a fire at a small dis
tance, and immediately heard a musket shot. Supposing that
it was a vessel in danger, I steered towards it with a light at
the bowsprit. On approaching I perceived a brig, which,
when we were near enough to hail, proved to be his Britannic
Majesty's brig the Colombia, which had sailed from Europe,
in 1817. It fell astern while we were speaking ; at midnight
it again approached us, and half an hour afte* fired two mus
ket shots to which we did not reply. We lay to and the cap-

86 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World,
tain called to me that he was coming on board ; which he did
immediately after. He declined looking at the ship's papers*
saying that he came as a friend, and merely to obtain some
information. I communicated to him all that I knew of that
coast, the Russian settlements, &c. He appeared to be much
interested in the change of the governor of New Archangel,
which place he was going to visit. He had left Europe in a state
of profound peace : he informed me of the restoration of the
Colonibia to the Americans, and told me of the departure of
the Uranie for a voyage of discovery, without being able to
tell me the name of the commander. This captain, whose
name was Robson, spoke in a very loose and unconnected
manner, and had nothing of the officer in his dress and man
ners. He went away at three o'clock in the morning, after
having had a severe fall upon deck. My fruitless visit to Sitka
having again caused me tolose several days, I determined to pro
ceed directly to the entrance of Peres, and to confine myself to
some parts of the coasts which it washes, and to Nootka to
endeavour to exchange the rest of my cargo for furs. At nine
o'clock in the evening we descried Forester's Island, situated to
the north-west of the entrance. We steered into the entrance
of Peres the next morning, keeping to the north side, along
whicb we steered to Cape Muzon. When we doubled it I had
a gun fired and the American flag hoisted, under which the
Vessel appeared at the opening of Port Cordova, which the
.Indians call Kaigarny.
Haying learnt from the Americans and Russians that the
inhabitants pf this district had taken most share in the affair
}f the 18th of June, I formed the project of seizing the first
that should come on board, and making them pay a ransom
in furs, as a just indemnity for the losses which the perfidy of
these Indians had caused us. With this intention, I had made
various changes, in order to disguise the ship, had it painted
differently, &c. After having doubled the Cape, I steered to
wards a village, at the back of a little cove, the first on ascend
ing the west side of the port. A canoe came out with five
Indians on board, who, after having observed us at a distance,
came within hail, and asked us whence the ship came, its
name, that of the captain, &c. To all these questions I gave
answers calculated to inspire them with confidence, and asked
them to give me a pilot to conduct us to the anchoring place ;
but instead of coming near they rowed away, and reached the
coast. Conceiving that any other attempt of this kind* would
be fruitless, and the want of time and of local knowledge not
permitting me to endeavour to inflict on them the punishment
which they merited, I stood off, and directed my course to

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 87
Port Estrada, on the north coast of Queen Charlotte's Island,
bf which we came in sight at five o'clock in the afternoon.
The country, in this part, forms a striking contrast with that
of the north, or rather with all that I saw on the north-west
coast. It is low, especially on the sea- side, rising almost
insensibly towards the interior, where it rises into moderate
hills, the rounded summits and gentle declivities of which had
none of those steep rocks, and rugged indentations which are
sp frequent elsewhere. The foliage of the woods appeared to
me to be of a less gloomy tint, and the whole scene much
less rude.
The outline of this coast, which Vancouver has given after
the Spaniards, seems to be very correct, and I had no difficulty
to distinguish the port which I sought^ from Port Masseredo,
and several other inlets which were in view at the same time,
in the west. Perceiving four canoes, three of which were
under sail, we took in the studding sails, to enable them to
come up to us. They however passed, without coming along
side, and the day being too far advanced to think of entering
a channel which I heard to be dangerous, we stood off.
Early on the 26th we entered the port, or rather arm of tie
sea, at Massett, under the guidance of an Indian named Tayan,
who came in a canoe to meet us. He made us steer towards
the south-east part. At eight o'clock we passed the south
east point, and soon after, being opposite to a large village, we
were surrounded by canoes. At nine o'clock, being within
seven or eight miles of the point, we cast anchor. Several
canoes came alongside on the 27th, with furs, of which we
obtained only two, because the Indians, who desired woollen
goods in exchange, found ours of a bad quality.
In the morning it blew hard from the south-east, and we
dragged our anchor, and were obliged to moor again. The
movement pf the anchor made the natives, several of whose
canoes were alongside, suppose that we were going to sail. I
endeavoured to make them understand that I had no such in
tention ; but in spite of my assurances, the fore-top stay-sail
having been hoisted, they threw themselves into their canoes
with so much precipitation, that they left behind them three
skins, for which they had not yet; been paid. In spite of all
our endeavours to undeceive them, they went on shore on the
south side. At two o'clock in the afternoon a canoe came
alongside to reconnoitre. Being encouraged by our promises,
and especially by seeing the small bower anchor dropped, they
called to their countrymen, and a great number of canoes
came round us. Those who had left their furs in the morning
did not fail to ask for payment, and seemed agreeably surpri-

88 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
sed at receiving it. They hadbut few furs, and in their inter
course with us, proved to be the most covetous of all the
Indians with whom we had dealt on this coast.
Several canoes came on the 28th, but they had but few otter
skins ; they attributed this scarcity to the visits they had alrea
dy received from the Americans. We obtained a pretty canoe
for an indifferent double-barrelled gun. Here, as well as at
other anchoring places, we procured a sufficient quantity of
fish, and, for the first time on the north part of the coast,
water-fowl which had not a fishy taste.
The .Indians gave us no cause of alarm. They are the finest
men on the north-west coast ; they seem better fed, stronger,
and much cleaner than the others. In their persons, and in
every thing belonging to them, there' is an appearance of opu
lence and comparative cleanliness, superior to all that we had
before observed. As far as we could judge, the huts compo
sing the four villages, on the two sides of the. entrance, are
better built, and in better order, than those of the north-
There is something picturesque in the whole appearance of
this large village ; it is particularly remarkable for the mon
strous and colossal figures which decorate the houses of the
principal inhabitants, and the wide gaping mouths of which
ssrve as a door. Ascending the arm of the sea, there is, on
the north side, above the largest village, a fort, the parapet of
which is covered with beautiful turf, and surrounded by a pa
lisade in good condition, which giyes it the appearance of the
out-works of our fortresses. This district, and the whole
north side of Queen Charlotte's Island, is beyond comparison
the finest that we saw in this part, of America. The Indians
were informed not only of the affair at Kowalt, but also of our
appearance at Kaigarny, a boat of that tribe, which was their
ally, came to inform them of it. This circumstance, and the
recent quarrel with the Brutus, explained the terror of those
who had quitted us so suddenly the day before. They disap
proved of the conduct of those of Kaigarny, or at least endea
voured to persuade us so.
My intention was to get under weigh the 29th, with the ebb,
but the fog prevented me. We hoisted three flags, to diy
them ; the sight of these obtained us a visit from a dozen ca
noes, of which only two had come before. Itemtchou the
head chief of Masset came in a handsome canoe, accompanied
by his three wives. His face is long, a little morose and savage,
and has something ofthe Swiss character. A zig-zag red line on
his forehead, was continued to part of his nose. He wore, by
way of a mantle, a white blanket, with a blue stripe at the ex
tremities, open before, and fastened by a cord : his hat was in

Roquefeuil's Voyage, round the World. 89
the form of a truncated cone, in the Chinese fashion. He
would not come on board, till we had promised that an officer
should remain as a hostage in his boat. We received him in
the best manner, and made some presents, both to him and to
his wives. We conversed by means of an Indian of Skitigats,
named Intchortge.* Having asked the name of the chief,
telling him my own, he thought I wanted to change names
with him, whieh, among these people, is the most inviolable
pledge of friendship. He eagerly acceded to this proposal,
which seemed to flatter him. The exchange was made, not
withstanding the difficulty the chief found in pronouncing his
new name, • which, to oblige him, I softened into Roki ; we -
made each other some presents, and parted good friends.
In endeavouring to quit this place, our movements were so
counteracted by contrary currents, that the ship run aground
close in shore. We had had not less than eleven fathoms wa
ter, a cable's length from the shore, not ten minutes before we
ran aground. We had then only eight feet before, and twelve
under the mizen-chain-wales.
We immediately proceeded to take the best steps in this
disagreeable situation, but it having been necessary to take
down the nets, the Indians who accompanied us to trade,
gradually got on board in such numbers that they became
at least equal to that of our crew. Though the few arms,
and the numbers of women and children in the canoes,
did not indicate any thing hostile on their part, any more than
their conduct, these pacific appearances might change in a
moment. But in the circumstances in which we were placed,
it was less dangerous to act with confidence, than to shew a
distrust, which, by letting them see our critical situation,
might induce them to take advantage of it, to attack us. Be
sides, I was made easy by the presence of my friend Itemtchou,
who had come on board shortly after we had run aground,
without requiring a hostage. He endeavoured to make me
easy respecting the situation of the ship, and especially with
regard to his personal sentiments in our favour, on which he
said I might entirely depend, in consequence of the friendship
which united us. I expressed to him the entire confidence

* Intchortge was well made, of fine stature ; bis complexion was slightly tan
ned, and his countenauce entirely European, except the eyes, whicli, in all the
natives of the north-west coast that I saw, have always something savage in them.
He piqued himself not only on speaking English well, but alsa on hi9 polished
manners ; of whicli he endeavoured to persiiade us by saying, frequently, " Me
all the sames Boston gentleman." These Indians, who have no intercourse except
with the- vessels from Boston, conceive that city to be the capital of the civilized
worid.
Voyages and Travels, No. LIV. Vol. IX. ' N

90 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
which I placed in his inclinations towards us, as well as in the
pacific disposition of his subjects ; but, at the same time, I
gave him to understand, that the great number of men which
covered the deck, and the quantity of canoes which sur
rounded the ship, without making us .uneasy, hindered us
greatly in the measures which it was necessary for us to take
to get the ship afloat. He made no answer to this indirect
solicitation, but, a moment after, when we were going to carry
out an anchor, he took leave of us. After he had left the ship,
he spoke some words in a loud voice, and, in about five mi
nutes, there did not remain a single canoe alongside, and not
a single man on board, except the interpreter. This Indian
told me, that he stayed only with the permission of his chief,
and also begged mine, which I readily gave him. This man,
whose English I understood, was very intelligent, and well
acquainted with this country. Continuing our operations du
ring the night, we got the vessel afloat again before noon, on
the 30th. My friend Itemtchou came back in the morning,
like a man certain of being welcome, and expressed much joy
at our success. I gave him, besides several trifles, a double-
barrelled gun. This man has a feeling heart, and this, per-r
haps, prevented all hostile attacks from his subjects. We
bargained for some more otter- skins, and weighed anchor soon
after. On the 31st, in the afternoon, the weather being very fine,
we passed, at a distance of four or five miles, round Point
Invisible, which cannot be more properly named. The tongue
of low and sandy land which terminates it, seemed to me to
extend farther than Vancouver marks it after the Spaniards.
To the north of the woody part, its small elevation, its white
sands, and its scarcely sensible inclination, give its appear
ance something indefinite, even in clear weather, and must
render it very dangerous during the fogs, which are very fre
quent in these seas. In doubling the point, we found that the
ebb set into the channel, between Queen Charlotte's and Pitt's
Islands. We steered towards this strait, which we entered at
half-past four o'clock. Invisible Point being to the west of us.
This evening was singularly beautiful ; the atmosphere was
pure, the sky without a cloud, the sea calm, the temperature
mild. The coasts which bound this beautiful channel were
visible on each side ; those of Queen Charlotte's Island, which
begin to rise at a small distance from Invisible Point, and soon
form steep mountains, were near enough for us to distin
guish those parts of the rock which were bare, from those
that were woody. For several hours the most extraordinary
and magnificent sight was presented to our view. For an

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 91
extent of about two leagues, their outlines, accurately marked
on the blue sky behind, represented a series of buildings, some
of which seemed to be in a perfect state of preservation, and
others in ruins; some resembled Greek monuments, others
gothic works, and others, from their gigantic size, resembled
Egyptian edifices. We could distinguish immense fortresses
some antique, with lofty towers, others resembling our mo
dern fortifications. Some rocks, which were only irregular
masses, were frequently mingled with these visionary monu
ments of human industry, whicli seemed ranged in perfect
order, forming not only entire buildings, but, even parts of
large cities. This singular view, equally remarkable for its
grandeur, as for the forms of the masses, must be attributed,
I suppose, to the arrangement of the rocks, which crown the
heights of this part of Queen Charlotte's Island, as well as
most of the mountains of these countries. I must say that,
though several had already attracted our attention in other
places, none approached the regularity and grandeur which in
this part excited our admiration. We were able to observe
them several hours, and the night alone concealed them from
our view; their forms not having undergone any sensible
alteration, except what was naturally produced by the pro
gressive motion of the ship. This circumstance induces me
to believe, that it cannot be attributed to clouds, which, indeed,
would be hardly less extraordinary. The sublimity of the scene,
heightened by the splendour of the setting sun, filled our
hearts with a religious emotion, and it is indelibly impressed
on my memory.
I would willingly have touched at Skitigats, one of the
principal Indian villages, of which the Captain of the Brutus
and Intchortge had spoken to me, but it would have cost me
more time than I could spare.
On the 1st of September we went down the channel, with
a good north-west wind, keeping in the middle, for fear of the
currents, respecting which I had no information, Vancouver,
my only guide, not having explored these parts. It is laid
down in his atlas only after the Spanish surveys, and drawn in
a particular manner, which seems intended to indicate that it
has not been so perfectly explored as the other coasts.
We tacked early to approach Queen Charlotte's islands, the
lofty coast of which forms several inlets. The current had
no sensible influence ; I fired a gun and hoisted a flag at the
main-mast to attract the natives. We were in 52° 46" ; the
land ahead five or six miles distant. We had to leeward a
point from which some smoke arose ; it formed the southern
extremity of a spacious entrance strewed with little islands.

92 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
We kept to windward to enter another more to the north, where
the two Sandwich islanders, whom I had from captain Nye,
assured me that he had traded. The natives delayed, and I
was close to the point where the fire appeared, when we saw a
canoe come from the bay to the north. One of the fiye In
dians in it came on board without any fear, and according to
custom, invited us to anchor at Skitansnana, a village^ which
was already known to me, both by the report of Captain Nye,
and the information I had received at M asset. This Indian
had several otter skins ; he showed us one, of veiy middling
quality, for which he asked four blankets. He seemed to
disapprove those we showed him, as well as all our woollen
goods. Two other canoes visited us, which produced four otter
skins and several small furs ; the natives probably had others
in the trunks on board their canoes. All entertained the same
opinion as the first, of our goods, and would only have wool
lens, and not powder which we offered them. They readily
exchanged their small skins for tin utehsils, and some articles
of hard ware. But it was with great difficulty that we ob
tained the bad fur of the first that came, and it was impossi
ble to have any others. We had again the sorrow to see
valuable furs escape us, the acquisition of which was the prin
cipal object of the expedition, for want of suitable objects to
exchange. It not being my intention to make any stay in this
place, and the wind being favourable to proceed to the south,
I took advantage of it to sail to Nootka, intending to touch on
the way at Nouhiti or at Naspate the western point of the same
island, if the weather should permit.
The natives of Skitansnana are evidently inferior to those of
Masset, as well in stature as in strength and energy. They
seemed not to be so well fed, and were far from having that
appearance of comfort, abundance, and cleanliness, which dis^
tinguishes their neighbours. There is also a marked difference
in the district which they inhabit : though it may be less rude
than the coasts of the more northern islands, it is more moun^
tainous, entirely covered with trees, which I conceive to be
resinous from the gloomy colour of their foliage. Circum
stances not being favourable to examine the anchorages at the
extremities of the island of Quadra and Vancouver, I resolved
to steer directly for Nootka, off which we arrived two days af
ter. On the 5th several canoes appeared and immediately
came along side. The boarding nets were fixed not so much
to guard against the hostility of the Indians, as to secure
ourselves from the importunities of these good people, who by
'their reiterated cries of wacoch (friend,) shewed great joy at
our return. The crew having dined, the long boat proceeded

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 93
to tow the ship into the harbour, assisted by sixteen canoes,
Which came with great readiness to meet us, and offered their
services in the most friendly manner. At 11 o'clock the Bor
delais anchored in Friendly Cove in eight fathoms and a half.
Each of the Indians in the canoes which towed us received a
small fishing hook : they were much satisfied with this recom
pense. This second entrance was effected on the anniversary
of the first.
At noon Macouina came without attendants ; he appeared
very happy to see us again, but he soon expressed how much
he was mortified at not being able to satisfy us with respect to
the principal object that brought us hither, after the loss which
he had just experienced. He then related, with all the marks
of grief and indignation, that an American three-masted ves
sel having entered the cove, he went on board, with his son,
at the desire of the captain, who was lame. That after having
been received with apparent cordiality, and entertained at the
captain's table, they had been seized and bound, by his orders :
that to recover his liberty, and that of his son, he had been
obliged to give a great quantity of furs, which had exhausted
his store ; he added, that this vessel had sailed ten days before,
and had been at Naspate. Notwithstanding the improbabili
ties of this story, I did not shew any doubt respecting its
truth. The ingenuity with which the chief explained, by signs,
the terms which we could not understand, and the singular
quickness of Eyssautier in comprehending the language of
these savages, induced me to believe that I was not mistaken
respecting the substance of his narrative, which the old chief
delivered in a persuasive and impressive manner. I replied,
that though deceived in the hope of finding furs, I was never
theless his friend ; that I was obliged to him for the reception
which he, as well as his people, had given us on our first visit,
and, lastly, that the confidence with which he had come on
board, immediately on my return, was very agreeable to me.
We fired a salute of seven guns, and I added to this honor a
present with which he was no less pleased. I gave some arti
cles of less value to his son, Macoula, who had arrived a little
after him, in a boat laden with fish for the ship. I let the
chief know, that furs being the principal object of my visit, I
should depart in two days, if no furs came ; but that if any
Were brought, I should remain four or five. I begged him to
let the subjects of Wicananich come with him. He not only
acceded to this request, but promised to send his son to ac
quaint his neighbours with our arrival, and induce them to
bring us their furs. He also readily undertook to procure us
a spar for the top-mast, and to have woodcut for us. I wished

94 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
to take advantage of the convenience of this station, to take
in as much wood and water as possible, and I was glad to.
employ these savages in work on shore, for notwithstanding
their peaceable conduct, and the testimonies of their chief's
good will, I did not like to send my people from the ship.
Macouina went ashore at half past two, and we soon after saw
him leave the cove in a small canoe. The Indians soon brought
wood, morels, and more fish than we could consume ; we gave
them in exchange fish hooks, medals, &c. As the disposition
of the natives was so satisfactory, the long boat was sent for
water as soon as the ship was moored.
At half past six Macouina came on board, towing the spar
which he had chosen very judiciously, according to the direc
tions given him. I presented him with a musket, and he
seemed delighted with this mark of my satisfaction. Not
withstanding the pacific conduct of the Indians we took the
usual precautions during the night. The long boat continued
to take in water, which being in small quantities for want of
rain, caused this service to go on slowly. The cooper and the
steward were employed in gathering the young shoots of the
fir, of which beer was made the same evening. The spar
which we had received from Macouina was- landed on the
beach near the village, and the carpenters were employed in
squaring it, which they completed in the course of the day.
The Indians brought us great numbers of fish and fire wood.
We had their canoes continually alongside, their conduct was
always peaceable, and we had nothing to complain of but their
poverty. They were not able to furnish us with more than
three small otter skins, which we purchased, as well as some
furs of land animals.
Macouina and his son breakfasted with us, after which the
latter left us to signify our arrival to Wicananich. We were
also visited by their wives, with several little children. Some
presents were made to the'se ladies, who at our first visit did
not come on board. At half past two, at Macouina's request,
I went on shore with him. He took me to his house,
where I was received by his numerous family and some per
sons of consequence, with repeated cries of wacoch ! wacoch !
These exclamations were frequently uttered in chorus during
the very animated discourse of the old chief, of which I un -
derstood rather by his attitudes than his words, only the expres
sions of his affections for us ; and it seemed to me also to
contain some imprecations against the Americans. This part
of his speech seemed to be listened to with indifference by his
auditors, and in his own manner there was an air of affectation.
These circumstances favoured the suspicions which I had con-

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 95
ceived of Macouina's story, that what he related of the per
fidy of the American captain was a mere fiction, to excuse
himself for breaking the promise he had made the year before, to
reserve all his furs for me. However, the poverty which ap
peared in the abode of this chief, and the dress of his subjects,
seemed to attest the truth of his statement. In his hut I saw
but one musket, which < was the one I had given him the day
before. It is true, we might suppose that he had already re
moved the great part of his riches to his winter residence at
Taches. After his discourse he eat some boiled fish, and then
took from a trunk a goblet and a bottle containing a little
brandy, and giving me to understand that it was the remainder
of what I had presented him last year, invited me to drink. Af
ter this visit I went to look at our carpenters, and then took a
walk in the village, where the inhabitants of both sexes expres
sed their joy at our return. I remarked the same want of
European articles which had already struck me in the Indians
that came on board. Very few had any blankets, and these
were so dirty that it is evident they were not the produce of
¦ the trade of the year. The village which had been found entirely
abandoned at the same time the last year, was nearly deserted
at our second visit.
During my walk Macoula returned much disappointed at
having been obliged to give up his embassy, on account
of the very high sea which he had met with out of the port.
I returned to Macouina's hut, and this time prolonged my
visit to examine his spacious dwelling, which we had found
uninhabited and even stript the year before. It was seventy-
four feet long, thirty-six broad, and about thirteen high to
the top, and was divided into only three compartments. The
partitions, which did not go up to the roof, formed two
apartments td the right and left of the principal door, which
was made in the middle of the long side opposite the port.
These chambers, between which was a passage, took up near
ly half the depth of the house. Along three sides there was
a platform raised a few inches, covered with mats, serving for
sleeping places. Trunks were placed on the sides, and enor
mous bottles, formed of the entire skin of a seal, and contain
ing train oil, were suspended to the walls and the timber of
the roof. Several of these immense vessels were ornamented
with strange paintings. Macouina inhabited the apartment
on the left, and his son that on the right. Each had its fire
place in the middle ; the roof over it being open to let out the
smoke. I remarked more cleanliness in the apartment of
Macoula, which, indeed, was less frequented and less encum
bered than that of his father. This young chief had a wife,

96 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
whose countenance was pretty agreeable, and one child,
on his return from his fatiguing and fruitless embassy, she
presented him with something to eat ; these very slight atten
tions and some cold caresses seemed to us, under such cir
cumstances, but faint marks of attachment between a young
couple who had hardly been married a year. I was but little
surprised at it, being accustomed to the manners of these men,
in whom a precarious existence and a state of constant hostility
with all the creation, tend to develope the hateful passions
rather than mild affections. The other half of the house, in
which there were only mats and some fishing implements, and
household utensils, was the habitations of the slaves. Two
cjlossal and monstrous figures already mentioned, were the
principal decorations of this Indian dwelling.
I returned on board with Macouina and his son, where I
was visited by Omacteaehloa, who said he had come on pur
pose from Taches, to see his good friends, the French. The
evening passed in conversing, in the most friendly manner,
whether it was, that our conduct had gained the good will of
the Indians, or that their own interest made them put on the
appearance. As, among other subjects, I spoke of the possi
bility of another visit to Nootka, the old chief expressed a
lively wish that we would return, and form a permanent es
tablishment, as the Spaniards had formerly done. He was
also extremely desirous to keep Eyssautier till my return:
his happy character, joined to a singular facility in compre
hending their language and signs, gained him the favour of
all the savages, with whom he was our natural interpreter.
Macouina begged me to leave him behind, and endeavoured
to gain him by the assurance of his constant friendship, by
the offer of a wife of a family of distinction, of his own choice,
and the promise to let him share with him in the noble labours
of the whale fishery, and the pursuit of sea-otters. Nothing
seemed to him more seducing, and more calculated to shake
the resolution of our young companion, than the picture which
he gave him ofthe delightful repose he would enjoy during the
bad season, or rather the absolute idleness in which he would
be able to indulge, and which he expressed in a manner not to
be mistaken, by folding his arms, and pretending to go to
sleep. He then explained, in a very intelligible manner, that
he had concluded a treaty with the Spaniards, which he made
us understand by signs, had been put in writing; that by
this convention he had ceded to them a piece of ground on
the coast of the bay, in return for a quantity of iron instru
ments, woollens, &c, which they delivered to him at stated
periods ; that they lived together on the most friendly footing

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 97
{the Spaniards occupying one part of the cove and the Indians
the other) ; that they had built large houses, and erected bat
teries upon the little Islands at the entrance ; that their pre
sence was very advantageous to him, well as on account of
the useful things which he received from them, as the terror
they inspired into his enemies. He expressed great regret at
their departure, spoke in high terms of the commanders, Qua
dra, Alava, and Fidalgo, and gave to all the Spaniards in
general, except to Martinez, praises, which seemed to be assented
to by Omacteaehloa himself, who, in his hatred to the mur
derer of his father, did not include his countrymen, who had
had no share in his crime.
Macouina spoke also in praise of Vancouver, Broughton,
and the English captains who frequented Nootka at the same
time. He mentioned, among others, Meares, who, he said,
had built a small house, in a place which he pointed out to me,
in the western extremity of the village. I took this oppor
tunity to obtain, at the fountain-head, information on a sub
ject which has become interesting, on account of the quarrel
to which it gave rise. The result of my enquiry was, that
Meares's house had been built with the permission of Macou-.
ina, but that there had not been any act of cession or treaty
between them. These, then, are the buildings erected by
Meares, and his rights to districts and portions of land, rights
Which England pretends were transferred to it by Meares, who
went from Macao to America, under the Portuguese flag, with
out any public character whatever. Such was the subject of
the quarrel, which was on the point of kindling a war between
the three great maritime powers, in 1790, and for which France
alone fitted out forty-five ships of the line. The chiefs left us
at seven o'clock, and were soon followed by the canoes which
were alongside of us. A few minutes after, a small canoe with
a single Indian approached softly, and with the greatest* pre
caution. This poor fellow, who shewed much fear lest Ma
couina should be acquainted with his visit, could hardly be
persuaded to come on board, and approach the candle, un
der pretence of remaining incognito ; but the cause of all
this mystery was, that he had the skin of a land otter to dis
pose of, which he hoped to pass off in the dark for a sea
otter. We had obtained only one fine'skin during the whole
&On the 8th, the weather being fine, Macoula again set out
on his mission to Wicananich. In the night of the 9th, a shoal
of herrings came to seek an asylum on our coast, having been
chased by a whale, which pursued them to the very bottom of
the cove, within a small distance of the land, where the shal-
Voyages and Travels, No. LIV, Vol. IX. U

98 Roquefeuifs Voyage round the World.
lowness of the water placed his prey in security. The innu
merable quantity of herrings rendering this asylum insuffi
cient, the whale attacked those which remained exposed;
struck with terror at his approach they leaped out of the water,
with a noise like that produced by a short wave in breaking ;
a small number of these unhappy fugitives hid themselves
under the sides of the ship, and, when the whale approached,
we saw them, according to the position of their terrible enemy,
pass from one side to the other, with a rapidity which, not
withstanding the phosphorescent streak which they left behind,
scarcely allowed the eye to follow their motions.
Some Indians from the interior brought a few furs : but the
small quantity they produced did not allow me to hope that
sufficient would come to authorize me to prolong my stay,
especially as we could not expect that Wicananich would send
any. A young man who said he was the son of that chief, had
come on board at day break, and had told Eyssautier that no
furs would come from his father as long as we remained at
this anchorage : but that we should receive some as soon as
the vessel should appear upon his coast. ' This young chief
spoke With animosity of Macouina, but seeing Omacteaehloa,
who was probably sent to watch him, he leaped into his canoe^
notwithstanding the endeavours made to persuade him to stay,
and went away without seeing me. Upon this I resolved to
depart the next day, and sail for California, after having sailed
along the coast of Clayoquot to communicate with the canoes
of the west side. Thus we learnt, that notwithstanding the
diplomatic talent of Macoula, he had failed in his negotiation,
which did not astonish me, as I knew that the alliance between
these two families, by the marriage of Wicananieh, with one
of the daughters of Macouina, had not extinguished their
rivalship. Besides the large stock of wood and water, collected without
exposing or fatiguing our people, and which would save us
much trouble at Saint Francisco, where these things are not
to be obtained without difficulty, we had also procured from
the natives a great quantity of mats, which would be very use
ful to us in California to make wheat sacks. Lastly we had ob
tained here, wholesome and abundant food, consisting of game,
fish, and vegetables *f of which we took with us sufficient for
several days. All this did not cost us above 50 francs, in fish
hooks, knives, and trifles, of which we had a great deal more
remaining than we could employ. We had also made some
casks of good beer : but we had the misfortune to lose the
best in the fermentation. These advantages were some com
pensation for the little success in trading, which increased our
stock by only eleven large skins.

Roquefeuil's Voyage round ihe World. 99
On the 11th in the morning every preparation was made to
put to sea. Macouina and Omacteaehloa did not fail to par
take of our dinner, according to their custom : the conversa
tion was animated and very friendly : it was chiefly on our
return, which our guests seemed much to desire ; they asked
us many questions on the subject, which I answered, as much as
possible to keep up their hopes without flattering them too
much. Macouina made the fairest promises, to induce me to
realize them. They took an affectionate leave of us : I gave
each of them a present.
It was near six o'clock when we weighed the last anchor ;
but the wind soon failing, I made the canoes that were still
alongside take the tow-rope, and called to the people on shore
to send some others ; eight or ten soon came, conducted by
the old chief in person. With the assistance of our friends,
we succeeded in our object, and a breeze from the south-east
springing up, the canoes cast off the tow-rope, at our desire.
To reward this service, which had been performed with all the
zeal of friendship, I gave Macouina a little present, and deli -<
vered him a sufficient number of knives to distribute among
his people, who had assisted us. We took a .last farewell,
drinking a glass of brandy together ; the old chief and his
companions withdrew, crying out wacoch ! wacoch ! as an ex
pression of their wishes for our happy voyage. These mani
festations of friendship, so far from our country, surrounded
by the gloomy scenes of savage nature, made, I must confess,
a deep impression upon my heart, and I should have been
sorry not to believe in the sincerity of the sentiments which
they expressed.
Soon after ten o'clock we saw a canoe under sail, coming
from Point Breakers. It came up to us, and one of the six
Indians that composed the crew came onboard; this man told
us a long story ; speaking very loud and quick, like him whom
we had seen there the year before, he gave us to understand
that the subjects of Wicananich were particularly in want of
blankets, and that an American brig had been at anchor two
days in one of the ports. Though I was tempted to believe
that this was only a trick of Macouina, to make me give up
my intention of communicating with his rival, this informa
tion made me refrain from exploring the coast of Clayoquot,
and the more readily as the weather hardly allowed us to hope
that the canoes would come out to trade. As I would not risk
the loss of time by going to anchor in the ports of Wicana
nich whom I had strong reason to distrust, I resolved to pro
ceed' directlv to California. Among other powerful motives,,

100 Roquefeuil's Voyage, round the World.
the business which I had to settle at St. Francisco, the provi
sions which it was necessary to replace, the wheat which we
had to procure, to fulfil our engagement with the Russians,
made it necessary for me to reach that port as soon as possi
ble, as I had to return to New Archangel before the bad season
was too far advanced. I thought, however, to touch at NeW
Albion, to the north of Cape Mendorino, if circumstances
were favourable.
The numerous ships that have visited Nootka, since the time
of Cook, leave little to be said respecting the country and its
inhabitants. The government is, in many respects, patriarchal,
the chief (Tahi,) not only exercising the functions of Prince
and Pontiff, but in some manner acting, likewise, as the father
of a family. There is no intermediate' class between the pa
tricians, tah(s~halati, (brothers of the Tahis,) and slaves,
(Mitschtmis,) among whom are included all those that are not
brothers of the chief, or his relations to the third degree, and
likewise prisoners of war, and their descendants. We did not
learn that there were any of these slaves at Nootka, peace
having prevailed for a long time.
They adore a beneficent God, the creator and preserver of
all things ; but at the same time they believe in, and abhor, a
malevolent divinity, the author of war, death, &c. To obtain
the favour of the former, the chief subjects himself to long
fasts, and observes the strictest chastity from the new to the
full moon. He chaunts hymns in chorus with his family, in
praise of the protector, (Kouautzl,) burns train-oil, and
throws feathers in the air by way of returning thanks.
They affirm that God, intending to propagate the human
race, first created a woman, whom he placed in the flowery
groves of Youcouast, (Nootka,) where he had already placed
dogs without tails, stags without horns, and birds v/ithout
Wings. In the midst of this company she felt herself alone,
and did nothing but weep night and day. Kouautzl being at
length moved by her tears, she one day saw a canoe of the
brightest copper, full of young persons, who rowed with paddles
of the same metal. In the midst of the astonishment which was
excited in the solitary woman, by this singular sight, one of the
handsome strangers landed on the earth, and announced to her
that it was the Almighty himself who had the goodness to visit
her retreat, and bestow on her the society for which she longed.
At these words the tears of the woman increased, and a humour
issued from her nose, some drops of which, on her sneezing, fell
on the sand. Kouautzl having commander' her to look that way
she perceived to her great astonishment, a little child whose
body was just formed. The God ordered her to ¦; t him in a

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 101
shell, proportioned to his size, and not to fail to place him in
larger ones. The Creator then embarked again; but not
Without confen-ing benefits on the animals, for immediately
after, the stag had horns, the dog a tail, and the birds wings,
with whieh they soon took flight. The infant grew in size and
strength, and was successively transferred to larger shells, till
he began to walk. He soon arrived at adolescence, and be
came the husband of the woman ; the chiefs descend from his
eldest son, and the rest of the people from his other children.
Their era commences with the arrival of Kouautzl.
They are extremely afraid of Mattoch, a fantastic being,
dwelling in the mountains, whom they believe to be a hideous
and ferocious monster, covered with black hair, having a
human head, with an enormous mouth, furnished with teeth
longer and more formidable than those of the bear, ahd
both his hands and feet armed like that animal. The thunder
of his voice throws down those who hear it, and he tears in
pieces all that have the misfortune to fall in his power. The
people of Nootka believe in the immortality of the soul, and
that after death it only changes its mode of existence, but with
this difference that the souls of their chiefs and of their rela
tions, go and join those of their ancestors residing with Kon-
autzl, and those of the mistchimis into an inferior Elysium,
called Pin Paula. The former preside over the thunder and
rain, by means of which they manifest their displeasure or
good will. They are so proud of their dignity that they are
persuaded that if any misfortune happens to a chief, the rain
is nothing more than the tears shed by his ancestors from the
grief they feel at it. The chiefs, who indulge in luxury and
gluttony, or who neglect the worship of the divinity, share in
the other world the fate of the mistchimis.
If a degree of felicity, inferior to that of the chiefs, falls to
the lot of the common people in the next world, on the other
hand, they can better enjoy pleasure in this life, being excused
from the abstinence and religious exercises which the chiefs
are obliged strictly to observe. The death of a chief is
mourned for four months, and the women as a testimony of
their grief cut off their hair within a few inches of. the head.
His body is carried to the summit of a mountain, Avhere it is
deposited enveloped in otter skins, in a bier which is suspended
to a tree. The chiefs of allied tribes attend the funeral ; like
most savages, they make incisions on their body as a sign of
affliction. On the decease of a chief, as well as of a >,near
relation, some of their particular friends go daily for a certain
time to visit his mortal remains, around which they sing hymns
expressive of their grief, being convinced that they are heard

102 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
by the soul which hovers about the body till its entire disso
lution. The mistchimis are buried in the ground to be nearer
to. the abode, which they are to inhabit with Pin Paula, where
they experience no other privation than that of being separ
rated from their old masters, without any hope of ever attain
ing the perfect felicity which they enjoy.
The Indians call by the name of tche-ha the shed which
serves as the burying place of the great chiefs of Nootka only.
At the entrance of the shed there are five rows of wooden
statues, rudely carved, extending to the other extremity, where
there is a kind of cabinet decorated with human skulls. Se
veral of these statues wear the distinctive features of a man,
and even have natural hair. A gallery of human bones marks
the limits of the shed. Opposite the entrance there are eight
large whales made of wood, placed in a line, on the back of
each, skulls are symmetrically arranged. On a lake near the
burying place there is a canoe which is generally strewed with
eagle's feathers. The interment of the chiefs is performed by
burying their bodies under the shed, eight feet deep : after a
certain time they take them up again, to take off the head,
which is then placed on the back of a whale, in memory of the
skill of the deceased in throwing the harpoon : lastly, they set
up his statue, as a monument to his honour, and to shew that
no other is to be buried in that spot.
None but chiefs have a right to enter this cemetry, and
Macouina had those put to death who he knew had entered it.
He often went there in the night, or early in the morning, be-?
fore any person in the village was up, to salute the manes of
his ancestors, and to implore the sun, as his god, to render him
happy in the other world. When Macouina catches a whale
he goes in the night to the shed to render homage to the sun
for the success of the day, and to offer to his ancestors a part
of his prey. After the conclusion of this ceremony, he pre
sides at the distribution of this whale, which he shares among
all his vassals. He then ordains a grand fete, which is held in
a small wood behind the village, and where he addresses the
sun aloud, in the presence of all the people. The diversions
at this fete consist in eating whale's flesh, in dancing to the
sound of a large empty trunk, and in making all kinds of con
tortions, and above all a great deal of noise. After these re
joicings Macouina carves a rude figure of a whale in wood,
which he places before the shed in memory of his offering.
The great chiefs of Nootka, their wives, and children to the
age of twelve years only, may he interred in this shed. As
for other individuals of all classes, they are laid out without
any covering, in the small wood behind the village. Th«

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 103
natives have the greatest veneration for Macouina ; they ima
gine that he is a relation of the sun, ahd every time he goes
to the shed it is to confer with him ; they also believe that the
great chiefs return when they please, and that the canoe which
is opposite the shed serves them to cross the lake every night ;
for that is the time, say they, that they return to walk in the
village. The notion of these savages that the prince who
governs them, will one day be able to command the elements
from the abode of the blessed, to which he is to be admitted,
inspires them with a profound veneration for a person who
will partake in the attributes of the divinity. However, we
did not see any thing servile in the homage paid by the people
to the chiefs. The dignity of Tahi descends from father to
son. It devolved upon Macouina, in the year 1778, when his
father was killed by the Tahumasses, a nation inhabiting the
other side of the island : his successor avenged his death in
a terrible manner.
From the accounts of the English and Spaniards, as well
as what we saw ourselves, it seems that there are always
at Nootka three principal chiefs, who exercise great authority
over the people as delegates of the Tahi, to whom they are
entirely subject. At the time of our visit these deputies were
Omacteaehloa, the son of Canicum; Machoalick, and Noak. Both
the Tahi, and Subaltern Chiefs, when age renders them incapa
ble of exercising their functions, often abdicate in favour of their
son; if they are able to take their place. The descendants of
the collateral relations of the Tahi, who form the body of
patricians, lose this privilege in the third generation, and de
scend into the class of the common people. These miserable
chiefs, of hungry and half naked tribes, the dirty inhabitants
of smoky huts, are as proud of their illustrious origin as the
first potentates of the civilized world. Their wives and
daughters share their pride. The rank of persons of this sex
is determined by that of their father and mother.
At Nootka, and on all the north-west coast, polygamy is in
custom among the Tahis and nobles, who consider it as a mark
of wealth and greatness. In fact, they cannot obtain a girl in
marriage without giving the parents, furs, canoes, European
clothing, muskets, &e. they are therefore a source of riches to
their fathers if they are at all well looking. The poor Mits-
chimis who can dispose of but a small part of the fruit of
their labours, are seldom able tp go to such an expense ; the
most fortunate are those to whom the Tahi gives a wife for their
services ; the majority live in a melancholy celibacy. Though
the women are bought in this manner, they are treated with
mweh mildness by their husbands ; who require from them only
the household cares and labours which, are suitable to their ,

104 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
sex. According to various creditable accounts, the women
exercise a decided supremacy over the other sex : in some
tribes of the north, they have been seen to use the men in the
most cruel manner. It is certain that in those parts the
matrons assist in their deliberations. It is almost always one
of. them that commands the war canoes. The destruction of
thb first Russian establishment at Sitka, was resolved upon in
consequence of the complaints of the women of the neigh
bouring tribes, who were incensed at the contempt of the
mistress of the Governor. Among other affronts, this woman,
a Creole of Kodiak, had spit in the wooden ornament in the
lower lip of the wife of a chief ; they told the men • that if
they had not courage to fight the Russians, they would go and
attack the fort themselves.
At Nootka, and I believe along the whole coast, the nuptial
ceremonies are confined to an entertainment. The women
marry about the same age as in Europe. When a chief has a
son, he shuts himself up for a time in his hut without looking
at the sun or sea, for fear of drawing upon himself the anger
of Kouautzl, who causes his death as well as that of the infant.
At the end of a month the father gives him a name before the .
assembled chiefs, to whom he gives an entertainment and
presents. The son of a chief, as he enters the different changes
of life, successively takes a new name, which is always signifi
cant or allegorical. The same changers made for a girl when
she is grown up. This change is accompanied with much
ceremony if she is the daughter of a great chief ; it is accom
panied by games, in which prizes are given to the conquerors.
The Tahi then taking her to a loom tells her, that now she is
become a woman she must attend to the duties of her sex.
From that time she no more quits her father's house, renounces
dancing, singing, and all the amusements of childhood, applies
to the various works suitable to women, and observes an exem
plary reserve in her behaviour.
The conduct of the inhabitants of Nootka induces us to be
lieve, that they are the tribe, on the -whole no rth-west coast, an In
tercourse with whom is the least dangerous to navigators ; it
must also be confessed, that it is one of the weakest, and the
poorest, we have hitherto seen. However, the comparative
mildness of the manners of these savages, gives reason to pre
sume, that the sense of their inferiority is not the only cause
of their moderation. They are but little addicted to theft, the
general vice of savages. Their population does not seem to
have been diminished since the arrival of the navigators who
visited them.
On the whole, the people of Nootka are but little favoured
by nature ; they are dirty and idle, and, at present, poor and

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 105
week, but they are generally pretty intelligent, and have a
lively imagination. They have much mildness and docility in
their character, are inclined to good, and sensible to kindness.
The chiefs, though always, ready to ask, are not destitute of
generous sentiments. They are good hearted, and the best
people on the whole north-west coast; they may be dealt with
on a more confidential footing, and from whom navigators
can the most easily obtain a supply of their wants.
The weather, on the 13th, was extremely fine, and the sky
remarkably clear ; but, on the 14th, a mist in the horizon, in
the east, indicated the neighbourhood of the land, along which
we sailed. A wood*-pigeon, exhausted with fatigue, lighted on
the rigging, and was taken. Nothing particular happened the
two or three following days ; but on the 17th, at seven o'clock
in the morning, a gentle breeze sprung up from south-south
east, and soon after we descried the land, at a great distance,
in the north-east, which was indistinctly seen the whple morn
ing, extending from east-south-east to north. At six o'clock
we took the bearings, the last points, as well as the summits,
being hid by the clouds. We saw several fires, on the low
land nearest to us. One of these extended for a great space
tothe north-east, and was seen several hours. At midnight.
we spread all our sails, and steered southward, parallel to the
coast, which, in all this part, is of equal height, pretty regu
lar, and generally woody. At six o'clock, after having gone
twenty-two miles, we had, to the south-south-east, a point,
which I judged to be Cape Mendocino. At half past seven,
we suddenly discovered, to the south-south-east, a consider
able fire on Cape Mendocino ; this fire covered the greater
part of the hill, from the sea-shore to the summit, and it ap
peared to extend to the other side. Impelled by a fresh breeze,
it made a rapid progress. This mountain of fire, its summit
crowned with immense clouds of smoke, the sea shining with
the reflection, which every wave mutiplied, the rocks scattered
round the promontory, and the second hill clothed with various
tints, this prospect, in the gloom of night, was of the most
majestic description, and filled the soul with exalted ideas.
Accurate inquiries at Saint Francisco, convinced me that
this fire which, at a distance, might have been mistaken for a
volcano, must be ascribed to the Indians, as well as other less
considerable, and more distant ones, which we saw that and
the preceding nights. The natives, at this season, set fire to
the grass, to dry the pods of a grain which they use for food,
to render it more easy to gather. It was, doubtless, this cir
cumstance, which was unknown to our illustrious La Peyrouse,
and that was the cause of his error, when seeing a great fire
Voyages and Travels, No. LIV. Vol. IX. P

106 Roquefeuil's- Voyage round the World.
on Cape Mendocino, about the same time of the year, hi?
thought it was a volcano. The wind being very faint, we did
not make any rapid progress, and it was not till the 20th that
We arrived at Saint Francisco. Wc passed close to the point
on which the fort stands, which presented a scene of anima
tion for that country, and very agreeable to us. All the. Pre
sidio had come out ; we distinguished the governor Arguello,
and our other friends, who welcomed us with attitudes of con
gratulation. They hailed the ship as it passed the fort, we
answered that she came from Nootka. At six o'clock we cast
anchor near the Presidio, in seven fathoms. I immediately
went on shore, where I was received as an old friend, by Don
Louis and the other officers.
The next day, I immediately set about two things, which
would have obliged me to go back to California, even if I had
not had occasion to go there, to receive the price of the goods,
which I had left there at my two preceding visits. Our salt
meat and vegetables were almost entirely consumed, and it
was indispensable to lay in a stock to serve us, till we reached
China. It was also of great importance to me, to procure
produce from the country, to fulfil the engagements which we
had contracted with the governor of New Archangel; and,
secondly, to be able to pay, in the least burthensome manner pos
sible, the debt contracted in consequence of the affair of the
18th of June. A tent was erected near the landing place, as a
workshop for the cooper, and for other necessary operations.
After having made arrangements with Don Louis, I repaired
to the mission, to agree for the daily supply of bread, and
fresh vegetables, and to consider of means for obtaining from
the missions situated upon the port, wheat, tallow, and pulse.
Father Ramon was at Saint Raphael, a new establishment,
formed on the northern coast; I found only his colleague,
Father Vincente Oliva, who, not having the power of his supe
rior, to treat upon business, could only confirm my hopes of
the inclination of the mission to supply me with any part of
their produce that I might desire. Father Vincente merely
engaged to send me the daily supply of provision, and the salt
necessary for pickling our stores.
A courier was dispatched to Montouy the same day, to give
notice of our arrival. On the 25th, Don Louis having sent me
word that the courier had arrived with the orders of the go
vernor concerning us, I went to the Presidio, where he com
municated to me the dispatch, containing the orders which the
governor gave respecting us. They were, that the Bordelais,
which was upon an expedition wholly commercial, should be
subject to the prohibitory regulations lately published : that

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 107
it should not be permitted to remain in the port longer than
was necessary to supply its most urgent wants : that it should
not be allowed to have any communications, except for this
purpose, and that only on the beach. The same courier
brought news of the arrival of the Russian frigate, the Kamt
schatka, and the return of the Kutusoff, which she had met going
out ; the latter had sailed again. On the 22d, the Columbia
brig, with which we had communicated off Sitka, arrived at
Montouy. The most positive information leaving me no doubt that, in
adopting towards us measures so different from the treatment
which we had before received, the hateful insinuations of the
captains of Peruvian privateers had been listened to ; one of
them having expressed his blind jealousy while we were at
Callao ; I resolved to go to Montouy, to do away the effects of
these calumnies. But Don Louis, to whom I was obliged to
applyfor permission, and the means to take the journey, assured
me that he was not authorized to grant my request, and that I
had only to write to the governor. My letter to Don Pablo
Vicentes Sola, governor of Upper California, was to the fol
lowing effect, "that after the hospitable reception which I
had till then met with, in the various ports of Spanish Ame
rica at which I touched, and particularly in the ports of his
government, I could not ascribe the rigorous treatment which
I had now met with, to any thing but false reports ; my con
duct having been unexceptionable, could not have caused such
a change. As I was certain of removing, if I could have the
honour of seeing him, the unfavorable impression which he
might have received, I begged him to, allow me to go to Mon
touy. If he should not think proper to grant me this favour,
I requested him to make strict enquiries into the facts, which
might have been imputed to me, and even to have an exami
nation on board the ship. That if the result was favourable
to me, as I was assured it would be, I begged him to allow
me a fortnight to re-victual, and, especially, to lay in a
stock of salt provisions. I likewise asked permission to land
some sick, on whose health the air of the country could not
fail to have the most salutary effect, and their presence need
not cause any uneasiness, as they had no contagious disorder."
I also acquainted the governor with the engagements that I
had entered into with the governor of the Russian settle
ments, and begged him to enable me to fulfil them., -I, at the
same time, wrote to Captain Golownen, to acquaint him of my
situation, and to ask his good offices, to ensure the success of
an operation which would be useful to the colonies of his own
nation. - *

108 Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
These dispatches were sent on the 26th, with those of Don
Louis, who consented, till he received new orders, to mitigate
the rigour of the restrietions imposed upon us. The answer
of the governor, Don. Pablo de Sola, came on the 28th ; it was
conceived in very polite, but very vague terms. I thought it
tolerably satisfactory, though all my requests were not expli
citly granted. He consented to my taking in provisions, but
he did not clearly express himself respecting the articles
which I desired to take in as a cargo. I also received a letter
from Captain Golownin, who had had the kindness to speak
in my favour to the Governor, from whom he had not obtained
a more precise answer than I had received. He gave me very
prudent advice respecting my intention of taking corn to New
Archangel ; this advice was founded on the abundant supply
which those establishments would receive from the Kutusoff,
which had five hundred tons on board, and might have indu
ced me to renounce my intentions, if my arrangements with
Mr. Heigemeister had not been both a sufficient guarantee on
his side, and an indispensable obligation on mine. He told me
that the Columbia, which at its arrival had asked his protec
tion, met with the same difficulties at Montouy, as I had met
with at Saint Francisco. Captain Golownin informing me of
his approaching departure for Russia, obligingly offered to take
charge of my packets for France.
Don Louis sent a circular letter to the three missions, desi
ring them to send their corn on board. This circular was
drawn up in such terms as shewed rather that it came from
him than from the superior authority, the consequence of
which was, that the Father Superior did not consider this as
sufficient authority, and would not suffer the corn to be -sent.
However, he wrote immediately to the Governor in the most
urgent terms, requesting him to give permission for the ex
portation of the corn which was no less advantageous for the
country than ourselves. The commandant, both the military
and the colonial came on board to provide themselves with
such articles as they wanted, especially woollens and all kinds
of clothing, all supplies from New Spain having ceased for
some years in consequence of the troubles. The courier sent,
by the Father Superior to Montouy, returned on the 9th with
dispatches entirely satisfactory. He immediately informed the
missions that they might send the corn which they had to
dispose of.
On the 10th another courier arrived from Montouy bring
ing dispatches in which the governor stated that an American
brig which had arrived at San Barbara from the Sandwich is
lands, affirmed it had left there two vessels of Buenos Ayres,

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. 109
tarrying thirty-two, and twenty-four guns : which were to
make an attack upon California. In consequence of this no
tice Don Louis took such defensive measures as his small
resources permitted to repel an attack.*
The health of the crew had sensibly improved : one of the
three sick, whom we had sent to the mission on our arrival,
and several others who had been subsequently attacked, were
entirely recovered; but two were unable to undertake another
voyage to the North, and I therefore consented to leave them
behind, and paid them their wages that they might have some
resource in a strange country. The superiors of the mission
promised to pay them every attention till they were recovered,
and I gave him a letter to the governor, thanking him for the
regulations which he had ordered out ' of humanity for our
sick, begging him to continue his protection, and when oppor
tunity offered, put them in a way to go to Europe. On the 17th
I went to the mission to settle our accounts, to take leave of
the superior, and to see our sick men once more. I encouraged
them by informing them of the favourable disposition of the
Governor of the Missionaries, through which they would find
means to return to France when their health permitted. I
exhorted them to behave in a manner worthy the kindness
shewn them, and honourable to the nation to which they be
longed. _ I gave each of them a certificate of my satisfaction
with their conduct and services.
I likewise settled with Don Louis his private account and
the duties both on the articles embarked as a cargo, and on
the goods imported by way of payment. These latter were
taxed at seven and a half per cent, on the sale price ; the
corn fifteen per cent, and the tallow sixteen per cent, on the
Value. The total produce of the sale on our three visits was
6226 piasters, that of the purchases, provisions, and duties,
included 6356 piasters, being an overplus of 130 piasters
which was paid in specie.
All the preparations for our departure being concluded, I
took leave of Don Louis and his Lieutenant, who came to par
take of the last dinner that we should have in their country.
About five in the afternoon our friends took leave with the most
cordial expressions of friendship and good will on both sides.
The wind being very weak and contrary, the high lands to the
north of Port San Francisco were still in sight at six o'clock
in the evening of the 19th.
• This attack was made soon after our departure, upon Montouy and the South
ern presidios which Were conquered without much resistance. San Franciseo was
not disturbed.

1 10 Roquefeuil's Voyage rqund the World. %
On the 20th of October, at two o'clock in the morning, we
set sail from St. Francisco for New Archangel. In the course
of our voyage we experienced a very violent storm, which did^
considerable damage to our vessel ; we however arrived with
out any serious accident at Sitka, on the 9th of November.
The following morning I waited upon Mr. Heigemeister, the
governor, and Mr. Yanowsky, to whom he had delegated his
powers, because he was shortly going to set sail for Europe.
These gentlemen made no difficulty to receive, according to
our agreement, the corn which I had brought, though the
Kutusoff had taken a cargo on board at California. During
the month that we remained at Sitka, we made the necessary
repairs to our ship, after landing our corn. We then re-em
barked our sanders wood, which we had deposited in the
warehouses, and took in our stock of wood and water. On
the 7th of December, the Kutusoff set sail, to return to Eu
rope, by way of the Cape of Good Hope. I went to take leave
of Captain Heigemeister, from whom I had experienced much
kindness. On the 12th of December all our labours being finished, we
landed the remainder of the goods which Mr. Yanowsky had
accepted in payment of the balance due from us to the Com
pany. By means of these goods, which we could not possibly
have got rid of in China, and the provisions from California,
we had but a very small sum to pay in specie, both for the
indemnity due for the Kodiaks killed at Kowalt, and for the
articles of various kinds which we had been supplied with.
Among these were a cable and anchor, a boat, some spars,
cordage, sail-cloth, &c. We did not get clear of the Bay till
9 o'clock the following morning, when we experienced an ex
traordinary change in the temperature, for we were scarcely
a league out at sea when the thermometer, which had been at
4° below zero, in the port, rose to 4° above it. At sun-set we
finally quitted the north-west coast of America, which we had
explored during ten months, with more danger and fatigue
thari I had ever endured at sea.
The experience we had in these ten months fully confirmed
what our predecessors have observed of the great diminution
of the otters on the north-west coast, especially about the
Strait of Fuca, and the island of Quadra, or Vancouver. Far
ther to the north the otters are more numerous, and it is even
affirmed that the race is not sensibly diminished. According
to every account, all the coasts both of the continent and the
islands situated to the north of the 51st degree, are more fre
quented by the otters than those to the south. The Indian
tribes, from whom the furs are to be purchased^ being weak,

Roquefeuil's Voyage round the World. Ill
and scattered for the most part without fixed abodes, the dif
ficulty of meeting with them on the immense extent of coast
over which they roam, is one of the principal obstacles that
navigators meet with in their traffic on these coasts.
For the first two days after we left Sitka we had a very
strong east wind, but met with no remarkable occurrence on
the whole voyage to Owhyee, where we cast anchor off the
village where Tameamea resided, on the ninth of Januaiy,
1819.
- The wind was so unfavourable that it took us three days to
go to Woahoo, and after we had employed five days in em
barking the water and provisions, and some sanders wood, we
were detained seven days longer by south winds and calms.
The chagrin caused by this delay was something alleviated by
the kindness of three American gentlemen, Messrs. Davis and
Meek, owner and captain of the Eagle, of Boston, and Mr.
Pigot, of the Fouster, who had lately arrived from Kamtschat
ka. Taking leave again of Woahoo, on the 26th of January,
I steered southwards, to the eighteenth degree, intending to
keep in that latitude till we reached the Mariana Islands.
On the 24th we came in sight of Assumption and Agrigan.
The summit of the former was constantly hidden by a small
cloud, or white vapour, from wluch flakes, which soon disap
peared, every moment detached themselves. I think it can
only be the smoke of some subterraneous fire. Early in the
morning of "the 7th of March, we were only a few miles from
the northernmost of the Bachees islands, and on the 9th came
in sight of the coast of China. On the 11th we cast anchor
off Macao, to which I immediately went to procure a pilot, to
conduct us to Wampou. The ship did not anchor in the roads
till the following day, which, for the inhabitants of that town,
was the 13th of March. We advanced our reckoning a day
accordingly. I returned on board with the pilot, and on the
17th, in the afternoon,we anchored at Wampou, alongside the
Indienne of Nantes.
The delays which we had experienced, both in America and
the Sandwich Islands, had an unfavourable influence upon our
operations in China, where we did not arrive till the latter end
of the season. The difficulties which obstruct business at this
late period of the year, were increased by the extraordinary
number of Americans, who, having preceded us, had caused
the value of imported goods to fall, and had exhausted, or
raised the price of, the produce of the country.
I endeavoured to avail myself of the smallness of my ship,
and the insignificance of its cargo to be excused from the
enormous duties imposed upon our vessels, at a time when all

112 Rbquefeuil's Voyage round the World.
those which came to China were of large burden, and to have
it treated like the Americans coming from the north-west coast ;
notwithstanding the absurdity of assimilating the Bordelais to
a Company's ship, the Chinese alleging the established custom,
rejected my application : the only advantage I obtained was
a reduction of yOO piastres in the payment to the Comprador,
the best part of which> as well as other similar expenses, turns
to the advantage of the authorities.
We left Wampou on the 23rd of April and cast anchor be
fore Macao on the 25th. I passed the following day in that
town to dispatch my packets for France, and to take in wine
and some medicines. On the 27th we sailed in company with
the Indienne.
Before I quit China I must acknowledge the kind reception
given me by factors and merchants of the several European
Nations. ¦ I shall not continue my narrative any further as the
interest attached to the expedition of the Bordelais till its
arrival in China does not extend to the voyage home, which
could add nothing to the knowledge that we have already
acquired by two centuries of constant intercourse. I shall
content myself with saying that leaving Macao on the 17th of
April, we stopped from the 1st to the 17th of July at the
isle of France to repair a leak, doubled the cape on the 13th
of August, and having been delayed by unfavourable winds in
the voyage to the Azores, the Bordelais was obliged to ask
a supply of provisions from three different vessels, and did
not make the coast of Oleron till the 19th of November.
She entered the Gironde on the 21st, and thus completed her
voyage round the World, in 37 months and two days, having
been 22 months and 6 days under sail.

FINIS.

YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

3 9002 03097 8911

iii91i$£P:ItlSlfflSHIuTOi! il. X v? 1 iltJnf
'¦ ''•• -fiftfTSfSlilHaSJiWi Hi

wm

wm

11