^' ^ ^ 'y^i ' \ ygp^ ^- ^3 /..-v - D "I give theft Both far thefaundm^ of a College ifi^tMs Colotej" D "Y.^LE-WIMnYJlI^SflTrY'' Deposited by the Linonian and Brothers Library PablisheJ by Harper itBrothETs l^IewYork a^.jQdJfG-a LEAVES FROM THE JOURNAL OF OUR LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS, FROM 1848 TO 1861. TO WHICH ARE PREFIXED AND ADDED EXTRACTS FROM THE SAME JOURNAL GIVING AN ACCOUNT OF EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND, AND TOURS IN ENGLAND AND IRELAND, AND YACHTING EXCURSIONS. EDITED BY ARTHUR HELPS. NEW YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS. CHICAGO: S. C. GRIGGS & CO, 1868. New Edition just ready. i2mo, Cloth, $z 00. With Portraits. Uniform with this Volume. QUEEN VICTORIA'S MEMOIR OF THE PRINCE CONSORT. The Early Years of His Royal Highness the Prince Consort. Compiled, under the Direction of Her Majesty the Queen, by Lieutenant- General the Hon. C. Grey. Two* Portraits on Steel. A very extraordinary record.— London Review. A mute appeal to our better nature. — Fraser's Magazine. It were well that it should enter into every household in England and America, as an example of goodness and of stainless honor. — Home Journal. A unique bSok in literary history. — Routtd Table. Published by HARPER & BROTHERS, Ne^w York. ^W° Sent by Mail, postage prepaid, to any part of ihe United States, on receiit of $200. Bvfe3.4Sw r TO THE DEAR MEMORY OF HIM WHO MADE THE LIFE QF THE WRITER BRIGHT AND HAPPY, THESE SIMPLE RECORDS ARE LOVINGLY AND GRATEFULLY INSCRIBED. EDITOR'S PREFACE. The circumstances which have led to the publi cation of this volume are briefly these. During one of the Editor's official visits to Bal moral, her Majesty very kindly allowed him to see several extracts from her journal relating to excur sions in the Highlands of Scotland. He was much interested by them, and expressed the interest which he felt. It then occurred to her Majesty that these extracts, referring, as they did, to some, of the happiest hours of her life, might be made into a book, to be printed privately, for presenta tion to members of the Royal Family and her Maj esty's intimate friends, especially to those who had accompanied and attended her in these tours. It was then suggested to her Majesty by some persons, among them a near and dear relative of the Queen, and afterward by the Editor, that this work, if made known to others, would be very in teresting to them as well as to the Royal Family and to her Majesty's intimate friends. The Queen, however, said that she had no skill "Whatever in vi Editor's Preface. authorship ; that these were, for the most part, mere homely accounts of excursions near home ; and that she felt extremely reluctant to publish any thing written by herself. To this the Editor respectfully replied that, if printed at all, however limited the impression, and however careful the selection of persons to whom copies might be given, some portions of the vol- vume, or quite as probably incorrect impressions of its contents, might find their way into the pub lic journals. It would therefore, he thought, be better at once to place the volume -within the reach of her Majesty's subjects, who would, no doubt, derive from it pleasure similar to that which it had afforded to the Editor himself. Moreover, it would be very gratifying to her sub jects, who had always shown a sincere and ready sympathy -with the personal joys and sorrows of their Sovereign, to be allowed to know how her rare moments of leisure were passed in her High land home, when every joy Avas heightened, and every care and sorrow diminished, by the loving companionship of the Prince Consort. With his memory the scenes to which this volume refers would always be associated. Upon these considerations her Majesty eventu ally consented to its publication. Editor'' s Preface. vii While the book was .being printed, the Editor suggested that it would gain in interest if other extracts were added to it, describing her Majesty's progresses in England, Ireland, and the Channel Islands. The Queen was pleased to assent, and the addi tions were accordingly made. It will easily be seen that this little work does not make any pretension "to be more than such a record of the impressions received by the Royal Au thor in the course of these journeys as might here after serve to recall to her own mind the scenes and circumstances which had been the source of so much pleasure. All references to political ques tions, or to the affairs of government, have, for ob vious reasons, been studiously omitted. The book is mainly confined to the natural expressions of a mind rejoicing in the beauties of nature, and throw ing itself, with a delight rendered keener by the rarity of its opportunities, into the enjoyment of a life removed, for the moment, from the pressure of public cares. It would not be becoming in the Editor to dwell largely upon the merits of this work. He may, however, allude to the picturesque descrip- viii Editor's Pre/ace. tions of scenery in which the work abounds ; to the simplicity of diction throughout it ; and to the perfect faithfulness of narration which is one of its chief characteristics ; for in every page the writer describes what she thinks and feels, rather than what she might be expected to think and feel. Moreover, he may point out the willingness to be pleased, upon which so much of the enjoyment of any tour depends ; and also the exceeding kind liness of feeling — the gratitude even — with which the Royal Tourists recognize any attention paid to them, or any manifestation of the cordial attach ment felt toward them, by any of her Majesty's subjects, from the highest to the humblest, whom they happen to meet with in the course of their journeys. The Editor thinks that he should not be doing justice to the Royal Author's book — not doing what, if it were any other person's work which was intrusted to his editing, he should do — if he were to forbear giving utterance to the thoughts which occurred to him in reference to the notes to the volume. These notes, besides indicating that peculiar memory for persons, and that recognition of per sonal attachment Avhich have been very noticeable Editor's Preface. ix in our sovereigns, illustrate, in a striking manner, the patriarchal feeling (if one may apply such a word as "patriarchal" to a lady) which ig so strong in the present occupant of the throne. Perhaps there is no person in these realms who takes a more deep and abiding interest in the welfare of the household committed to his charge than our gracious Queen does in hers, or who feels more keenly what are the reciprocal duties of masters and servants. Nor does any one wish more ardently than her Majesty that there should be no abrupt severance of class from class, but rather a gradual blending together of all classes, caused by a fall community of interests, a constant interchange of good offices, and a kindly respect felt and expressed by each class to all its brethren in the great brotherhood that forms a nation. Those whose duty it has been to attend upon the Queen in matters of business must have no ticed that her Majesty, as a person well versed in the conduct of affairs, is wont to keep closely to the point at issue, and to speak of nothing but what is directly connected with the matter before her. But whenever there is an exception to this rule, it arises from her Majesty's anxious desire to make some inquiry about thg^welfare of her^ sub- A2 X Editor's Preface. jects — to express her sympathy with this man's sorrow, or on that man's bereavement — to ask what is the latest intelligence about this disaster, or that suffering, and what can be done to remedy or assuage it — thus sho-wing, unconsciously, that she is, indeed, the Mother of her People, taking the deepest interest in all that concerns them, without respect of persons, from the highest to the lowest. The Editor thinks that one point of interest which will incidentally be disclosed by this pub lication is the aspect of the Court in these our times. What would not the historian give to have similar materials within his reach when writing about the reigns of the great Queen Eliz abeth or the good Queen Anne ? There is always something in the present which has the appear ance of being tri-vial and prosaic; but the future historian will delight in having details before him furnished by this book and by the Life of ihe Prince Consort,* which will enable him fully to describe the reign of Victoria, and justly to appre- * A work which has met with a very cordial reception from the public, and which, from what the Editor has seen, will not by any means diminish in interest as it proceeds to describe the full and busy life of the Prince as a man. Editor's Preface. . xi ciate the private life of a Sovereign whose public life will enter so largely into the annals of the nineteenth century. One more remark the Editor can not refrain from making, namely, that it is evident that her Majesty never takes for granted the services and attentions which are rendered to her, and which we all know would be rendered to her from duti ful respect and regard, but views them as especial kindnesses shown to herself, and to which she makes no claim whatever from her exalted posi tion as a Sovereign. This latter trait, very characteristic of the Royal Author, gives, throughout, an additional charm to the book, which, 'on that account alone, and apart even from its many other merits, will, the Editor doubts not, be gratefully and affectionately wel comed by the public. London, Jarmary, 1868. CONTENTS. Eakuer Visits to Scotland. DATE. PAGE First Visit to Scotland 29 Aug. 1842 17 Visit to Blair Athole 9 Sept. 1844 56 Tour round the West Coast of Scotland and Visit to Ardverikie 11 Aug. 1847 76 Life in the Highlands, 1848-1861. First Impressions of Balmoral 8 Sept. 1848 105 First Ascent of Loch-na-Gar 16 Sept. 1848 107 A " Drive" in the Balloeh Buie ./. 18 Sept. 1848 Ill The First Stay at Alt-na-Giuthasach 30 Aug. 1849 113 A Beat in the Abergeldie Woods 3 Sept. 1849 116 Visit to the Dhu Loch, etc 11 Sept. 1849 118 Ascent of Ben-na-Bhourd 6 Sept. 1850 121 The Gathering „ 12 Sept. 1850 123 Salmon Leistering 13 Sept. 1850 125 Loch Muich 16 Sept. 1850 128 Torch-hght Ball at Corriemulzie 10 Sept. 1852 130 Account of the News of the Duke of Welling ton's Death 16 Sept. 1852 132 Building the Cairn on Craig Gowan, etc 11 Oct. 18,52 136 Laying the Foundation-stone of our New House 28 Sept. 18,53 141 The Kirk 29 Oct. 1854 143 Arrival at the New Castle at Balmoral 7 Sept. 1855 144 Impressions of the New Castle 8 Sept. 1 855 145 News of the Fall of Sevastopol 10 Sept. 1855 146 The Betrothal of the Prirfcess Royal 29 Sept. 1855 148 xiv Contents. DiVTE. PAGE The Kirk .'. 14 Oct. 1855 149 Finding the Old Castle gone 30 Aug. 1856 150 Gardens, etc. , round the New Castle 31 Aug. 1856 150 Love for Balmoral 13 Oct. 1856 151 Opening of the New Bridge over the Linn of Dee -J 8 Sept. 1857 152 Visits to the Old Women 26 Sept. 1857 153 Visit to the Prince's Encampment at Feithort 6 Oct. 1857 155 A Fall of Snow 18 Sept. 1858 157 Ascent of Morven 14 Sept. 1859 162 The Prince's Return from Aberdeen 15 Sept. 1859 164 F§te to the Members of the British Association 22 Sept. 1859 164 Expedition to Inchrory 30 Sept. 1859 168 Ascent of Ben Muich Dhui 7 Oct. 1859 171 First great Expedition — To Glen Fishie and Grantown 4 Sept. 1860 175 Second great Expedition — To Invermark and Fettercaim 20 Sept. 1861 188 Expedition to Loch Avon 28 Sept. 1861 200 Third great Expedition — To Glen Fishie, Dalwhinnie, and Blair Athole 8 Oct. 1861 203 Last Expedition 16 Oct. 1861 217 TotTES IN England and Ikeland, and Yachting Excttesions. First Visit to Ireland 2 Aug. 1849 227 Yachtmg Excursion 20 Aug. 1846 256 Second Yachting Excursion 2 Sept. 1846 267 Visit to the Lakes of KUlarney 27 Aug. 1861 282 Directions to the Binder. he Southeast Balmoral Castle from the Northwest / Frontispiece. Balmoral Castle from the Southeast 1 EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND. First Visit to Scotland. On Board the Royal George Yacht, Monday., August 29, 1842. At five o'clock in the morning we left Windsor for the railroad, the Duchess of Norfolk, Miss Ma tilda Paget, General Wemyss, Colonel Bouverie, and Mr. Anson following us. Lord Liverpool, Lord Morton, and Sir James Clark, who also ac company us, had already gone on to Woolmich. We reached London at a quarter to six, got into our carriages, and arrived at Woolwich before seven. Albert and I immediately stepped into our barge. There was a large crowd to see us embark. The Duke of Cambridge, Lord Jersey, Lord Haddington, Lord Bloomfield, and Sir Greorge Cockburn were present in full uniform. Sir George handed me into the barge. It was raining very hard when we got on board, and therefore we remained in our sitting-room. I annex a list of our squadron : 18 Life in ihe Highlands. 1. The ship " Pique," 36 guns. 2. The sloop "Daphne," 18 guns — (both of which join us at the Nore). 3. The steam vessel " Salamander" (with the carriages on board). 4. The steam vessel " Rhadamanthus" (Lord Liverpool and Lord Morton on board). 5. The steam vessel " Monkey" Tender, which has towed us till nine o'clock (Mr. Anson and the equerries on board). 6. The steam vessel "Shearwater," which is now towing us (Sir James Clark on board). 7. The steam vessel " Black Eagle" (which has the ladies on board, and which tows us in front of the " Shearwater"). 8. The steam vessel "Lightning" (with the Jager Benda, and our two dogs, " Eos" and " Cair- nach," on board) in front, which has gone to take our barge on board from the " Pique." 9. The steam vessel " Fearless" (for survey). This composes our squadron, besides which the Trinity-House steamer goes with us, and also a packet. Innumerable little pleasure steam-boats have been following us covered with people. Life in the Higlilands. 19 Tuesday, August 30. We heard, to our great distress, that we had only gone 58 miles since eight o'clock last night. How annoying and provoking this is ! We re mained on deck all day lying on sofas; the sea was very rough toward evening, and I was very ill. We reached Flamborough Head, on the York shire coast, by half past five. Wednesday, August 31. At five o'clock in the morning we heard, to our great vexation, that we had only been going three knots an hour in the night, and were 50 miles from St. AWs Head. We passed Coquet Lsland and Bamhorough •Castle on the Northumberland coast, which I was unfortunately unable to see ; but from my cabin I saw Feme Island, with Grace Darling's light house on it ; also Rocky Lslands and Holy Lsland. At half past five I went on deck, and immediate ly lay down. We then came in sight of the Scotch coast, which is very beautiftJ, so dark, rocky, bold, and wild, totally unlike our coast. We passed St. AWs Head at half past six. Num bers of fishing-boats (in one of which was a piper 20 Life in the Highlands. playing) and steamers full of people came out to meet us, and on board of one large steadier they danced a reel to a band. It was a beautiful evening,, calm, with a fine sunset, and the air so pure. One can not help noticing how much longer the days are here than they were in En,gland. It was not really dark till past eight o'clock, and on Monday and Tuesday evening, at Windsor, it was nearly dark by half past seven, quite so before eight. The men begged leave to dance, which they did to the sound of a violin played by a lit tle sailor-boy ; they also sang. We remained on deck till twenty-five minutes to nine, and saw many bonfires on the Scotch coast — at Dunbar — Lord Haddington's place, Tyningha/me, and at other points on the coast. We let off four rockets, and burned two blue-* lights. It is surprising to see the sailors climb on the boM^sprit and up to the top of the mast head — this, too, at all times of the day and night. The man who carried the lantern to the main-top ran up with it in his mouth to the top. They are so handy and so well conducted. We felt most thankful and happy that we were near our journey's end. Life in the Highlands. 21 Thursday, September 1. At a quarter to one o'clock we heard the an chor let down — a welcome sound. At seven we went on deck, where we breakfasted. Close on one side were Leith and the high hills towering over Edinburg, which was in fog ; and on the other side was to be seen the Lsle of May (where it is said Macduff held 'out against Macbeth), the Bass Rock being behind us. At ten minutes past eight we arrived at Granton Pier, where we were met by the Duke of Buccleuch, Sir Robert Peel, and others. They came on board to see us, and Sir Robert told us that the people were all in the highest good-humor, though naturally a little dis appointed at having waited for us yesterday. We then stepped over a gangway on to the pier, the people cheering and the Duke saying that he begged to be allowed to welcome us. Our ladies and gentlemen had landed before us, safe and well, and we two got into a barouche, the ladies and gentlemen foUo-wing. The Duke, the equer ries, and Mr. Anson rode. There were, however, not nearly so many peo ple in Edinburg, though the crowd and crush were such that one was really continually in fear of accidents. More regularity and order would 22 Life in ihe Highlands. have been preserved had there not been some mistake on the part of the Provost about giving due notice of our approach. The impression Edin burg has made upon us is very great; it is quite beautiful, totally unlike any thing else I have seen; and, what is even more, Albert, who has seen so much, says it is unlike any thing he ever saw ; it is so regular — every thing built of mass ive stone — there is not "a brick to be seen any where. The High Street, which is pretty steep, is very fine. Then the Castle, situated on that grand rock in the middle of the town, is most striking. On the other side the Calton Hill, with the National Mon'wment, a building in the Gre cian style; Nelson^ s Monument; Bu/rns''s Monu ment; the Jail; the National School, etc. — all magnificent buUdings, and with Arthur'' s Seat in the background, overtopping the whole, form al together a splendid spectacle. The enthusiasm was very great, and the people very friendly and kind. The Royal Archers Body Guard* met us * The Duke of Buccleuch told me the other day that the Archers Guard was established by James I., and was com posed of men who were mounted and armed from head to foot, and who were bound always to be near the Sover eign's person. At Flodden Field, King James IV. 's body, it is said, was found covered and surrounded by the bodies of the Archers Guard. Life in ihe Highlands. 23 and walked with us the whole way through the town. It is composed entirely of noblemen and gentlemen, and they all walked close by the car riage, but were dreadfully pushed about. Among them were the Duke of Roxburgh and Lord El- cho on my side, and Sir J. Hope on Albert's side. Lord Elcho (whom I did not know at the time) pointed out the various monuments and places to me as we came along. When we were out of the town we went faster. Every cottage is built of stone, and so are all the walls that are used as fences. The country and people have quite a different character from England and the English. The old women wear close caps, and all the children and girls are barefooted. I saw several handsome girls and children with long hair ; indeed, all the poor girls, from sixteen and seventeen down to two or three years old, have loose flowing hair — a great deal of it red. As we came along we saw Craigmillar Castle, a ruin where Mary, Queen of Scots, used to live. We reached Dalkeith at eleven — a large house, constructed of reddish stone, the greater part built by the Duchess of Monmouth, and the park is very fine and large. The house has three fronts, with the entrance on the left as you drive up. 24 Life in ihe Highlands. The Duchess of Buccleuch arrived directly after us, and we were shown up a very handsome stair- ' case to our rooms, which are very comfortable. We both felt dreadfully tired and giddy. We drove out together. The park is very extensive, with a beautiful view of Arthur's Seat and the Pentland Hills ; and there is a pretty drive overhanging a deep valley. At eight we dined — a large party. Every body was very kind and civil, and full of inquiries as to our voyage. Dalkeith House, Friday, September 2. At breakfast I tasted the oatmeal porridge, which I think very good, and also some of the "Finnan haddies." We then walked out. The pleasure-grounds seem very extensive and beauti ful, wild and hilly. We walked down al(OTg the stream (the River Esli), up a steep bank toi.a lit tle cottage, and came home by the upper part of the walk. At four o'clock we drove outf wi^h the Duchess of Buccleuch and the Duche^ of Nor folk — the Duke and equerries riding, |he others in another carriage. We drove through Dal keith, whicl^.was full of people, all running and cheering. Life in the Highlands. 25 Albert says that many of the people look like Germans. The old women, with that kind of cap which they call a " mutch," and the young girls and children with flowing hair, and many of them pretty, are very picturesque ; you hardly see any women with bonnets. Such a thick " Scotch mist" came on that we were obliged to drive home through the village of Lasswade, and through Lord Melville's Park, which is very fine. Saturday, September 3. At ten o'clock we set off — ^we two in the ba rouche, all the others following — for Edinbu/rg. We drove in xmder Arthur's Seat, where the crowd began to be very great, and here the Guard of Royal Archers met us ; Lord Elcho walkiag near me, and the Duke of Roxburgh and Sir J. Hojfc on Albert's side. We passed by Holyrood CAope?, which is very old and full of interest, and Holyrood Palace, a royal-looking old place. The procession moved through the Old Town up the High Str.eet, which is a most 'extraordinary street from thb immense height of the houses, most of them being eleven stories high, and different fam ilies living in each story. Every window was crammed full of people. B 26 Life in the Highlands. They showed us Knox's House, a curious old building, as is also the Regent Mwray's House, which is in perfect preservation. In the Old Town the High Church, and St. PauVs in the New Town, are very fine buildings. At the bar rier the Provost presented us with the keys. The girls of the Orphan Asylum, and the Trades in old costumes, were on a platform. Far ther on was the New Church, to which — strange to say, as the church is nearly finished — they were going to lay the foundation-stone. We at length reached the Castle, to the top of which we walked. The view from both batteries is splendid, like a panorama in extent. We saw from them He^'- iofs Hospital, a beautiful old building, built, in tbe time of James, by a jeweler, whom Sir Walter Scott has made famous in his Fortunes of Nigel. After this, we got again into the carriages and proceeded in the same way as before, the pressure of the crowd being really quite alarming ; and both I and Albert were quite terrified for the Archers Guard, who had very hard work of it, but were of the greatest use. They all carry a bow in one hand, and have their arrows stuck through their belts. Unfortunately, as soon as we were out of Ed- Life in the Highlands. 27 inburg, it began to rain, and continued raining the whole afternoon without interruption. We reached Dalmeny,'LoYdi Roseberry's, at two o'clock. The park is beautiful, with the trees growing down to the sea. It commands a very fine view of the Forth, the Isle of May, the Bass Rock, and of Edinburg, but the mist rendered it almost im possible to see any thing. The grounds are very extensive, being hill, and dale, and wood. The house is quite modern : Lord Roseberry built it, and it is very pretty and comfortable. We lunched there. The Roseberry's were all civility and attention. We left them about half past three, and proceeded home through Leith. The view of Edinburg from the road before you enter Leith is quite enchanting ; it is, as Al bert said, " fairy-like," and what you would only imagine as a thing to dream of, or to see in a pic ture. There was that beautiful large town, all of stone (no mingled colors of brick to mar it), with the 'bold Castle on one side, and the Calton Hill on the other, with those high, sharp hills of Ar thur's Seat and Salisbury Crags towering above all, and making the finest, boldest background imaginable. Albert said he felt sure the Acropo lis could not be finer ; and I hear they sometimes call Edinbu/rg " the modern Athens.''^ The Arch- 28 Life in the Highlands. ers Guard met us again at Leith, which is not a pretty town. The people were most enthusiastic, and the crowd veiy great. The Porters all mounted, with curious Scotch caps, and their horses decorated with flowers, had a very singular effect ; but the fishwomen are the most striking-looking people, and are generally young. and pretty women — very clean and very Dutch-looking, with their white caps and bright-colored petticoats. They never marry out of their class. At six we returned well tired. Sunday, September 4. We walked to see the new garden which is being made, and saw Mackintosh there, who was formerly gardener at Claremont. The view of Dalkeith (the village, or rather town) from thence is extremely picturesque, and Albert says very German-looking. We returned over a rough«sort of bridge, made only of planks, which crosses the Esk, and which, with the wooded banks on each side, is excessively pretty. Received from Lady Lyttelton good accounts of our little children. At twelve o'clock there were prayers in the house, read by Mr. Ramsay, who also preached. Life in the Highlands. 29 At half past four the Duchess drove me out in her own phaeton, with a very pretty pair of chest nut ponies, Albert riding with the Duke and Col onel Bouverie. We drove through parts of the park, through an old wood, and along the banks of the South Esk and the North Esk, which meet at a point from which there is such a beautiful view of the Pentland Hills. Then we drove, by a private road, to Newbattle, Lord Lothian's place. The park is veiy fine, and the house seems large ; we got out to look at a most magnificent beech- tree. The South Esk runs close before the house, by a richly wooded bank. From thence we went to Dalhousie, Lord Dal- housie's. The house is a real old Scotch castle, of reddish stone. We got out for a moment, and the Dalhousies showed us the drawing-room. From the window, you see a beautiful wooded valley, and a peep of the distant hills. Lord Dalhousie said there had been no British sovereign there since Henry IV. We drove home by the same way that we came. The evening was — as the whole day had been — clear, bright, and frosty, and the Moorfoot Hills (another range) looked beautiftil as we were returning. It was j)ast seven when we got home. 30 Life in the Highlands. Monday, September 5. I held a Drawing-room at Dalkeith to-day, in the gallery. The Ministers and Scotch Oflficers of State were in the room, and, the Royal Ai'chers were in attendance in the room and outside of it, like the Gentlemen-at-Arms in London. Before the Drawing-room I received three addresses — from the Lord Provost and Magistrates, from the Scotch Church, and from the Universities of St. Andrews, Glasgow, and Edinburg — to which I read answers. Albert received his just after I did mine, and read his answers beautifully. Tuesday, September 6. At nine o'clock we left Dalkeith as we came. It was a bright, clear, cold, frosty morning. As we drove along we saw the Pentlands, which looked beautiful, as did also Arthur''s Seat, which we passed quite close by. The Salisbury Crags, too, are very high, bold, and sharp. Before this we saw Craigmillar. We passed through a back part of the town (which is most solidly built), close by Heriois Hospital, and had a very fine view of the Castle. I forgot to say that, when we visited the Castle, Life in the Highlands. 31 we saw the Regalia, which are very old and curi ous (they were lost for one hundred years) ; also the room in which James VI. of Scotland and the First of England was born — such a very, very small room, with an old prayer written on the wall. We had a beautiful view oi Edinburg and the Forth. At Craigleith (only a half-way house, nine miles) we changed horses. The Duke rode with us all -the way as Lord Lieutenant of the county until we arrived at Dalmeny, where Lord Hopetoun met us and rode with us. At eleven we reached the South Queensferry, where »Te got out of our carriage and embarked in a little \ steamer, the ladies and gentlemen of our carriages ' going in another. We went a little way up the Forth to see Hopetoun House, Lord Hopetoun's, which is beautifully situated between Hopetoun and Dalmeny. We also saw Dundas ¦ Castle, be longing to Dundas of Dundas, and farther on, be yond Hopetoun, Blackness Castle, famous in his tory. On the opposite side you see a square tow er, close to the water, called Rosyth, where Oliver Cromwell's mother was said to have been born, and in the distance Dunfermline, where Robert Bruce is buried. We passed close by a very pretty island in the Forth, with an old castle on it, called Lnchgarvie ; and we could see the Forth 32 Life in the Highlands. winding beautifully, and had a distant glimpse of .Edinbwrg and its fin,e Castle. We landed safely on the other side at North Queensferry, and got into our carriages. Captain Wemyss, elder broth er to General Wemyss, rode with us all the way beyond Cowdenbeath (eight miles). The first vil lage we passed through on leaving the Queens- ferry was Lrwerkeithing. We passed by Sir P. Durham's property. We changed horses at Cowdenbeath. At a quarter past one we entered Efin/ross-shire. Soon aft-er, the country grew prettier, and the hills ap peared again, partly wooded. We passed Loch Leven, and saw the castle on the lake fi'om which poor Queen Mary escaped. There the country is rather flat, and the hills are only on one side. We changed horses next at Kinross. Soon after this, the mountains, which are rather barren, began to appear. Then we passed the valley of Glen Farg ; the hills are very high on each side, and complete ly wooded down to the bottom of the valley, where a small stream runs on one side of the road -r-it is really lovely. On leaving this valley you come upon a beauti ful view of Strathearn and Moncrieffe Hill. We were then in Perthshi/re. We changed horses next at the Bridge of Ea/rn (12 miles). At half past lAfe in ihe Highlands. 33 three we reached DuppUn, Lord KinnouU's. All the time the views of the hills, and dales, and streams were lovely. The last part of the road very bad traveling, up and down hill. Diipplin is a very fine modern house, with a very pretty view of the hUls on one side, and a small water fall close in front of the house. A battalion of the 42d Highlanders was drawn up before the house, and the men looked very handsome in their kilts. We each received an address from the no bility and gentry of the county, read by Lord Kinnoull ; and from the Provost and Magistrates oi Perth. We then lunched. The Willoughbys, Kinnairds, Ruthvens, and Lord Mansfield, and one of his sisters, with others, were there. After lunch eon we walked a little way in the grounds, and then at five o'clock we set off again. We veiy soon came upon Perth, the situation of which is quite lovely ; it is on the Tay, with wooded hUls .skirting it entirely on one side, and hUls are seen again in the distance, the river winding beautifuUy. Albert was charmed, and said it put him in mind of the situation of Basle. The town itself (which is very pretty) was immensely crowded, and the people very enthusiastic; triumphal arches had been erected in various places. The Provost pre sented me with the keys, and Albert with the B 2 34 Life in the Highlands. freedom of the city. Two miles beyond is Scone (Lord Mansfield's), a fine-looking house of reddish stone. Lord Mansfield and the Dowager Lady Mans field received ua at the door, and took us to our rooms, which were very nice. Wednesday, September 7. We walked out, and saw the mound on which the ancient Scotch kings were always crowned ; also the old arch with James VL's arms, and the old cross, which is very interesting. Before our windows stands a sycamore - tree planted by James VI. A curious old book was brought to us from Perth, in which the last signa tures are those of James I. (of England) and of Charles I., and we were asked to write our names in it, and we did so. Lord Mansfield told me yes terday that there were some people in the town who wore the identical dresses that had been worn in Charles I.'s time. At eleven o'clock we set off as before. We drove through part of Perth, and had a very fine view of Scone. A few miles on, we passed the field of battle of Luncarty, where tradition says the Danes were beaten by Lord Er- roU's ancestor. We also passed Lord Lynedoch's Life in ihe Highlands. 35 property. We then changed horses at the " New Inn" at Auchtergaven. ' The Grampians came now distinctly into view; they are, indeed, a grand range of mountains. To the left we saw Tullybugles, where it is said the Druids used to sacrifice to Bel; there are a few trees on the top of the mountain. To the left, but more immediately before us, we saw Birnam, where once stood Birnam Wood, so renowned in Macbeth. We passed a pretty shoot ing place of Sir W. Stewart's, called RohalUon, nearly at the foot of Birnam. To the right we saw the Stormont and Strathtay. Albert said, as we came along between the mountains, that to the right, where they were wooded, it was very like Thilringen, and on the left more like Switzerla/nd. Murthhf, to the right, which belongs to Sir W. Stewart, is in a very fine situation, with the Tay winding under the hill. This lovely scenery con tinues all along to Dunkeld. Lord Mansfield rode with us the whole way. Just outside Dunkeld, before a triumphal arch. Lord Glenlyon's Highlanders, with halberds, met us, and formed our guard — a piper playing be fore us. Dunkeld is beautifully situated, in a narrow valley, on the banks of the Tay. We drove in to where the Highlanders were all drawn 36 Life in ihe Highlands. up, in the midst of their encampments, and where a tent was prepared for us to lunch in. Poor Lord Glenlyon received us; but he had suddenly be come totally blind, which is dreadful for him, He was led about by his wife ; it was veiy mel ancholy. His blindness was caused by over-fa tigue. The Dowager. Lady Glenlyon, the Mans- flelds, KinnoiiUs, Buccleuchs, and many others. were there. We walked down the ranks of the Highlanders, and then partook of luncheon ; the piper played, and one of the Highlanders* danced the "sword dance." (Two swords crossed are laid upon the ground, and the dancer has to dance across them without touching them.) Some of the others danced a reel. At a quarter to four, we left Dunkeld as we t?.ame, the Highland Guard marching with us tUl we reached the outside of the town. The drive was quite beautiful all the way to TaAfmx)uth.\ * Charlie Christie, now steward to the present Dowager Duchess of Athole. f I revisited Taymoulii last autumn, on the 3d of October, from Dunkeld (incognita), with Louise, the Dowager Duch ess of Athole, and Miss Mac Gregor. As we could not have driven through the grounds without asking permission, and we did not wish to be known, we decided upon not attempt ing to do so, and contented ourselves with getting out at a gate close to a small fort, into which we were led by a worn- lAfe in the Highlands. 37 The two highest hills of the range on each side are (to the left, as you go on after leaving Dun keld') Craig-y-Bams and (to the right, imme diately above Dunkeld) Craigvinean. fhe Tay winds along beautifully, and the hills are richly wooded. We changed horses first at Balana- gard (nine mUes), to which place Captain Mur ray, Lord Glenlyon's brother, rode with us. The hills grew higher and Jiigher, and Albert said it was very Swiss-looking in some parts. High ribbed mountains appeared in the distance, high er than any we have yet seen. This was near AberfeMy (nine miles), which is charmingly situ ated and the mountains very lofty. At a quarter to six we reached Taymouth. At the gate a guard of Highlanders, Lord Breadalbane's men, an from the gardener's house, near to which we had stop ped, and who had no idea who we were. We got out, and looked from this height down upon the house below, the mist having cleared away sufficiently to show us every thing ; and then, unknown, quite in private, I gazed — not without deep emotion — on the scene of our reception twenty-four years ago, by dear Lord Breadalbane, in a princely style, not to be equaled in grandeur and poetic effect. . Albert and I were then only twenty-three, young and fiappy. How many are gone that were with us then ! I was very thankful to have seen it again. It seemed unaltered — 1866. 38 Life in the Highlands. met us. Taymouth lies in a valley surrounded by very high, wooded hills ; it is most beautiful. The house is a kind of castle, built of granite. The coup-dceil was indescribable. There were a number of Lord Breadalbane's Highlanders, all in the Campbell tartan, drawn up in front of the house, with Lord Breadalbane himself in a High land dress at their head, a few of Sir Neil Menzies' men (in the Menzies red and white tartan), a number of pipers playing, land a company of the 92d Highlanders, also in kilts. The firing of the guns, the cheering of the great crowd, the pic- turesqueness of the dresses, the beauty of the sur rounding country, with its rich background of wooded hills, altogether formed one of the finest scenes imaginable. It seemed as if a great chief tain in olden feudal times was receiving his sov ereign. It was princely and romantic. Lord and Lady Breadalbane took us up stairs, the hall and stairs being lined with Highlanders. The Gothic staircase is of stone and very fine ; the whole of the house is newly and exquisitely furnished. The drawing-room, especially, is splen did. Thence you go into a passage and a library, which adjoins our private apartments. They showed us two sets of apartments, and we chose those which are on the right hand of the corridor Life in the Highlands. 39 or anteroom to the library. At eight we dined. Staying in the house, besides ourselves, are the Buccleuchs and the two Ministers, the Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth Leveson Gower, the Abercorns, Roxburghs, KinnouUs, Lord Laud erdale, Sir Anthony Maitland, Lord Lome, the Fox Maules, Belhavens, Mr. and Mrs, William Russell, Sir J. and Lady Elizabeth, and the Misses Pringle, and two Messrs. Baillie, brothers of Lady Breadalbane. The dining-room is a fine room in Gothic style, and has never been dined in till this day. Our apartments also are inhabited for the first time. After dinner the gardens were most splendidly Uluminated — a whole chain of lamps along the raUings, and on the ground was written in lamps, " Welcome Victoria — Albert." A smaU fort, which is up in the woods, was il luminated, and bonfires were burning on the tops of the hills. I never saw any thing so fairy-like. There were some pretty fireworks, and the whole ended by the Highlanders dancing reels, which they do to perfection, to the sound of the pipes, by torchlight, in front of the house. It had a wild and very gay effect. 40 Life in ihe Highlands. Taymouth, Thursday, September 8. Albert went off at half past nine o'clock to shoot with Lord Breadalbane. I walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk along a path overlooking the Tay, which is very clear, and ripples and foams along over the stones, the high mountains form ing such a rich background. We got up to the dairy, which is a kind of Swiss cottage, buUt of quartz, very clean and nice. From the top of it there is a very pretty view of Loch Tay. We returned home by the way we came. It rained the whole time, and very hard for a little while. Albert returned at half past three. He had had excellent sport, and the trophies of it were spread out before the house — nineteen roe- deer, several hares and pheasants, and three brace of grouse ; there was also a capercailzie that had been wounded, and which I saw afterward — a magnificent large bird. Albert had been near Aberfeldy, and had to shoot and walk the whole way back, Lord Bread albane himself beating, and 300 Highlanders out We went out at five, with Lady Breadalbane and the Duchess of Sutherland ; we saw part of Loch Tay, and drove along the banks of the Tay under fine trees, and saw Lord Breadalbane's American buffaloes. Life in ihe Highlands. 41 Friday, September 9. Albert off again after nine o'clock, to shoot. Soon after he left I walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk across the iron bridge, and along a grass walk overhanging the Tay. Two of the Highland Guard (they were sta tioned at almost every gate in the park) followed us, and it looked like olden times to see them with their swords drawn. We then walked to a lodge on the same road. A fat, good-humored little woman, about forty years old, cut some flowers for each of us, and the Duchess gave her some money, saying, " From her Majesty." I never saw any one more surprised than she was ; she, however, came up to me, and said very warmly that my people were delighted to see me in Scotland. It came on to rain very heavily soon afterward, but we walked on. We saw a woman in the river, with her dress tucked up almost to her knees, washing potatoes. The rain ceased just as we came home, but it went on pouring frequently. Albert returned at twenty minutes to three, having had very hard work on the moors, wading up to his knees in bogs every now and then, and had killed nine brace of grouse. We lunched ; then we went to 42 Idfe in the Highlands. the drawing-room, and saw from the window the Highlanders dancing reels ; but, unfortunately, it rained the whole time. There were nine pipers at the castle ; -sometimes one, and sometimes three played. They always played about breakfast- Igme, again during the morning at luncheon, and also whenever we went in and out ; again before dinner, and during most of dinner-time. We both have become quite fond of the bagpipes. At a quarter past five we drove out with the Duchess of Buccleuch and the Duchess of Suth erland (poor Lady Breadalbane not being very well). Lord Breadalbane riding the whole time before us. We took a most beautiful drive, first of all along part of the lake and between the hills — such thorough mountain scenery — and with little huts, so low, so full of peat smoke, that one could hardly see any thing for smoke. We saw Be7i Lawers, which is said to be 4000 feet high, very well ; and farther on, quite in the distance, Ben More — also the Glenlyon, and the River By on, and many fine glens. It was quite dark when we came home at half past seven. At eight we dined ; Lord and Lady Ruthven and Lord and Lady Duncan dined here. After din ner came a number of people, about ninety, and there was a ball. It opened with a quadrille, Life in ihe Highlands. 43 which I danced with Lord Breadalbane, and Al bert with the Duchess of Buccleuch. A number of reels were danced, which it was very amusing and pretty to see. Saturday, September 10. We walked to the dairy and back — a fine bright morning; the weather the two preceding days had been very unfortunate. I drove a little way with Lady Breadalbane, the others walking, and then got out, and each of us planted two trees, a fir and an oak. We got in again, and drove with the whole party down to the lake, where we embarked. Lady Breadalbane, the Duchess of Sutherland, and Lady Elizabeth went by land, but all the others went in boats. With us were Lord Breadalbane, and the Duchess of Norfolk and Duchess of Buccleuch ; and two pip ers sat on the bow and played very often. I have since been reading in The Lady of the Lake, and this passage reminds me of our voyage : " See the proud pipers on the bow. And mark the gaudy streamers flow From their loud chanters down, and sweep The furrow'd bosom of the deep. As, rushing through the lake amain, They plied the ancient Highland strain." 44 Life in the Highlands. Our row of 16 miles up Loch Tay to Auchmore, a cottage of Lord Breadalbane's, near the end of the lake, was the prettiest thing imaginable. We saw the splendid scenery to such great advantage on both sides — Ben Lawers, with small waterfalls descending its sides, amid other high mountains wooded here and there ; with Kenmoi'e in the dis tance; the view, looking back, as the loch winds, was most beautiful. The boatmen sang two Gae lic boat-songs, very wild and singular; the lan guage so guttural, and yet so soft. Captain Mc- Dougall, who steered, and who is the head of the McDougalls, showed us the real "brooch of Lorn," which was taken by his ancestor from Robert Bruce in a battle. The situation oi Auchmore is exquisite ; the trees, growing so beautifuUy down from the top of the mountains, quite into the water, and the mountains all round, make it' an enchanting spot. We landed and lunched in the cottage, which is a very nice little place. The day was very fine ; the Highlanders were there again. We left Auchmore at twenty minutes past three, having arrived there at a quarter before three. The kindness and attention to us of Lord and of Tjady Breadalbane (who is very delicate) were un bounded. We passed Killin, where there is a mountain stream running over large stones, and forming waterfalls. Idfi in the Highlands. 45 The country we came to now was very wild, beginning at Glen Dochart, through which the Dochart flows ; nothing but moors and very high rocky mountains. We came to a small lake called, I think, Laragilly, amid the wildest and finest scenery we had yet seen. Glen Ogle, which is a sort of long pass, putting one in mind of the prints of the Kyber Pass, the .road going for some waj down hill and up hUl, through these very high mountains, and the escort in front looking like mere specks from the great height. We also saw Ben Vbirlich. At Loch Earn Head we changed horses. Lord Breadalbane rode with us the whole way up to this point, and then he put his Factor (in Highland dress) up behind our car riage. It came on to rain, and rained almost the whole of the rest of the time. We passed aJong Loch Earn, which is a very beautiful long lake skirted by high mountains, but is not so long or so large as Loch Tay. Just as we turned and went by St.Fillans, the view of the lake was very fine. There is a large detached rock with rich verdure on it, which is very striking.' We also saw Glenartney, the mountain on which Lord Willoughby has his deer forest. We passed by Sir D. Dundas's place, Dunira, before we changed horses at Comrie, for the last time, 46 Life in the Highlands. and then by Mr. WUliams's, and by Ochtertyre, Sir W. Keith Murray's. Triumphal arches were erected in many places. We passed through Crieff, and a little past seven reached Drummond Castle, by a very steep ascent. Lord WUloughby received us at the door, and showed us to our rooms, which are small, but nice. Besides Lord and Lady WiUoughby and the two Misses Willoughby, and our own people, the din ner-party was composed of the Duchess of Suth erland and Lady Elizabeth L. Gower, Lord and Lady Carington, Mr. and Mrs. Heathcote, the Duke de Jlichelieu, Lord Ossulston, Mr. Drummond, and the officers of the Guard. Drummond Castle, Sunday, September 11. We walked in the garden, which is reaUy very fine, vnth terraces, like an old French garden. Part of the old castle and the archway remains. At twelve o'clock we had prayers in the draw ing-room, which were read by a young clergyman, who preached a good sermon. It poured the whole afternoon, and, after writ ing, I read to Albert the three first cantos of The Lay of the Last Minstrel, which delighted us both ; and then we looked over some curious, fine old Life in ihe Highlands. 47 prints by Ridinger. At eight we dined. The Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth had gone; but Lord and Lady Abercorn and Lord and Lady Kinnoull and their daughter added to the party. Monday , September 12. Albert got up at five o'clock to go out deer stalking. I walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk. AU the Highlanders (Lord WiUoughby's peo ple, 110 in number) were drawn up in the court, young Mr. WiUoughby and Major Drummond be ing at their head, and I walked round with Lady WUloughby. AU the arms they wore belonged to Lord Willoughby ; and there was one double- hilted sword which had been at the battle of Bannockburn. I hear that at Dunkeld there were nearly 900 Highlanders, 500 being Athole men ; and, altogether, with the various Highlanders who were on guard, tBere were 1000 men. At length — a little before three — to my joy, Albert returned, dreadfully sunburnt, and a good deal tired ; he had shot a stag. He said the ex ertion and difficulty were very great. He had changed his dress at a small farm-house. Glen- 48 Lnfe in the Highlands. artney is ten mUes from Drummond Castle; he drove there. CampbeU of Monzie (pronounced " Monie"), a young gentleman who has a place near here, went with him, and was, Albert said, extremely' active. To give some description of this curious sport, I wiU copy an extract from a letter Albert has written to Charles,* giving a short account of It : "Without doubt deer- stalking is one of the. most interesting of pursuits. There is not a tree or a bush behind which you can hide yourself. . . One has, therefore, to be constantly on the alert in order to circumvent them, and to keep under the hill out of their wind, crawling on hands and knees, and dressed entirely in gray." At half past four we drove out with Lady WU loughby and the Duchess of Buccleuch. We drove through Fern Tower (belonging to the widow of the first Sir D. Baird), where we stopped the car riage ; then to Abercairny, Major Moray's. We got out there a moment to look at the very fine house he is building, then drove* home by Monzie (CampbeU of Monzie's) and Sir W. MiuTay's, and had a very good view of the Highland hills — a very fine day. At eight we dined. The Belha vens, Seftons, Cravens, Campbell of Monzie, and * My half-brother, Prince Leiningen, who died in 1856. lAfe in the Highlands. 49 various others, composed the party. After dinner more people came^several in kilts; and many reels were danced : Campbell of Monzie is an ex ceedingly good dancer. We danced one country dance — I with Lord Willoughby, and Albert with Lady Carington. Tuesday, September 13. We had to start early, and therefore got up soon after seven o'clock ; breakfast before eight. At nine we set off. The morning was very foggy and hazy. We passed near Lord Strathallan's place, and stopped for a moment where old Lady Strathallan was seated. Lord Willoughby rode with us the whole way tUl we arrived here. Soon after this we came to a very extraordinary Roman encampment at Ardoch, called the "Lindrum." Albert got out, but I remained in the carriage, and Major Moray showed it to him. They say it is one of the most perfect in existence. We changed horses at Greenloaning, and passed through Dwnblane. At twelve o'clock we reached Stirling, where the crowd was quite fearful, and the streets so narrow that it was most alarming ; and order was not very well kept. Up to the Castle, the road or street is dreadfully steep : we C 50 L/ife in the Highlands. had a foot procession before us the whole way, and the heat was intense. The situation of the Castle is extremely grand ; but I prefer that of Edinburg Castle. Old Sir Archibald Christie ex plained every thing to us very well. We were shown the room where James H. kiUed Douglas, and the window out of which he was thrown. The ceiling is most curious. A skeleton was found in the garden only twenty-five years ago, and there appears to be little doubt it was Douglas's. From the terrace the view is very extensive, but it was so thick and hazy that we could not see the High land hills well. Sir A. Christie showed us the field of the battle of Bannockbu/rn: and the " Knoll," close under the waUs of the Castle, from which the ladies used to watch the tournaments : aU the embankments yet remain. We also saw Knox's pulpit. We next passed through Falkirk, and changed horses at Calla/nder Park, Mr. Forbes's, both he and Sir Michael Bruce having ridden with us from beyond Stirling. We passed Lord Zetland on the road, and shortly after reaching Linlith gow, where we changed horses. Lord Hopetoun met us. Unfortunately, we did not see the Palace, which, I am told, is well worth seeing. The Duke of Buccleuch met us soon after this, and, accompa- Infe in ihe Highlands. 61 nied by a large number of his tenants, rode with us on horseback to Dalkeith. We changed horses at Kirkliston, and lastly at the outskirts of Edin- bwg. There were a good many people assembled at Edinbu/rg ; but we were unable to stop. We reached Dalkeith &i haK past five. The journey was 65 mUes, and I was very tired, and felt most happy that we had safely arrived here. Dalkeith, Wednesday^ September 14. This is our last day in Scotla/nd ; it is really a delightful country, and I am very sorry to leave it. We walked out and saw the fine green-house the Duke has buUt, aU in stone, in the Renaissance style. At half past three o'clock we went out with the Duchess of Buccleuch, only Colonel Bou verie riding vrith us. We drove through Melville Pa/rk, and through one of the little coUier villages (of which there are a great many about Dalkeith), caUed Loa/nhead, to Rosslyn. We got out at the chapel, which is in excellent preservation ; it was buUt in the fifteenth century, and the architecture is exceedingly rich. It is the burying-place of the famUy of Lord Rosslyn, who keeps it in repair. Twenty Barons of Rosslyn are 52 Idfe in the Highlands. buried there in armor. A great crowd had col lected about the chapel when we came out of it. From Rosslyn we then drove to Hawthornden, which is also beautifully situated at a great height above the river. To our great surprise we found an immense crowd of people there, who must have run over from Rosslyn to meet us. We got out, and went down into some of the very curious caves in the solid rock, where Sir Alexander Ramsay and his brave followers con cealed themselves, and held out for so long a time. The Duchess told us there were many of these caves aU along the river to Rosslyn. We came home through Bonnyrigg, another collier vUlage, and through Dalkeith. Thwrsday, September 15. We breakfasted at half past seven o'clock, and at eight we set off, with the Duchess of Buccleuch, Lord Liverpool, and Lord Hardwicke foUowing. The ladies and equerries had embarked earlier. The day was very bright and fine. The arrange ments in Edinbu/rg, through which we had to pass, were extremely weU managed, and excellent order was kept. We got out of the carriage on the pier, and went at once on board the "Tri- Life in the Highlands. 53 dent," a large steam-boat belonging to the Gener al Steam Navigation Company. The Duke and Duchess of Buccleuch, Lady J. Scott, the Emlyns, Lord Cawdor, and Lady M. CampbeU, came on board with us, and we then took leave of them. Wc) both thanked the Duke and Duchess for their extreme kindness, attention, and hospitality to us, which reaUy were very great — indeed, we had felt ourselves quite at home at Dalkeith. AlS the fair shores oiScotUmd receded more and more from our view, we felt quite sad that this very pleasant and interesting tour was over ; but we shall never forget it. On board the " Trident" (where the accommo dation for us was much larger and better than on board the " Royal George," and which was beau- tiftiUy fitted up) were Admiral Sir E. Bruce, a pleasant old man, Commander Bullock, and three other officers. The "Rhadamanthus," with some servants and carriages, set off last night, as well as the " Shearwater," with Lord Liverpool and Lord Hardwicke on board. The " Salamander" (with Mr. and Mrs. Anson on board), the "Fearless," and the "Royal George" yacht set off at the same time with us, but the wind being against us, we soon lost sight of the yacht, and, not very long after, of all our steam- 54 Jjife in the Highlands. ers except the " Monarch," which belongs to the General Steam Navigation Company, and had some of our horses on board. It started nearly at the same time, and was the only one which could keep up with us. We passed TantaUon Castle, a grand old ruin on the coast, and quite close to the Bass Rock, which is very fine, and nearly opposite TantaUon. It was entirely cov ered with sea-guUs and island geese, which swarm in thousands and thousands, quite whitening its sides, and hovering above and around it. At two o'clock we passed the famed St. AbUs Head, which we had so longed to see on our first voyage to Scotland. I read a few stanzas out of Ma/rmion, giving an account of the voyage of the nuns to Holy LsUmd, and saw the ruins of the convent on it; then Ba/mborough Castle, and a little farther on the Feme Lslands. We were very sorry to hear that poor Grace Darling had died the night before we passed the first time. Friday, September 16. We heard that we had passed Flamborough Head at half past five in the morning. The " Black Eagle" we passed at half past eight last night, and we could only just see her smoke by Life in the Highlands. 55 the time we came on deck. At half past nine I foUowed Albert on deck ; it was a fine, bright morning. We had some coffee, and walked about; we were then quite in the open sea ; it was very fine aU day. At five we were close to the "Rhad amanthus," which had been in sight all day. We had a very pleasant little dinner on deck, in a smaU tent made of flags, at half past five. We passed Ya/rmouth at about a quarter to six — very flat — and looking, Albert said, like a Flemish town. We walked up and down on deck, ad miring the splendid moonlight, which was reflect ed so beautifuUy on the sea. We went below at half past seven, and I read the fourth and fifth cantos of The Lay of the Last Minst/rel to Albert, and then we played on the piano. SaPwrday, September 17. At three o'clock in the morning we were awakened by loud guns, which, however, were welcome sounds to us, as we knew that we were at the Nore, the entrance of the river. About six we heard the " Rhadamanthus" had just pass ed us, and they said we were lying off Southend, in order to let the "Black Eagle" come up. It was a very bright day, though a little hazy. 56 Life in ihe Highlands. The shipping in the river looked very pretty as we passed along. At ten minutes past ten we got into the barge and landed. The Duchess of Norfolk and Miss MatUda Paget and the equer ries were all there, but the others we knew noth ing of. Sir James Clark had been on board the " Trident" with us. We drove off at once to the railway terminus, and reached Windsor Castle at half past twelve o'clock. Visit to Blaie Athole. Monday, September 9, 1844. We got up at a quarter to six o'clock. We breakfasted. Mamma came to take leave of us ; Alice and the baby* were brought in, poor little things, to wish us "good-by." Then good Bertief came down to see us, and VickyJ appeared as "voyageuse," and was all impatience to go. At seven we set off with her for the raili-oad, Vis- * Prince Alfred, then only five weeks old. f Name by which the Prince of Wales is always called in his family. X Victoria, Princess Royal. Life in the Highlands. 57 countess Canning and Lady Caroline Cocks in our carriage. A very wet morning. We got into the carriage again at Paddington, and pro ceeded to Woolwich, which we reached at nine. Vicky was safely put into the boat, and then carefuUy carried on deck of the yacht by Ren- wick,* the sergeant-footman, whom we took with us in the boat on purpose. Lord Liverpool, Lord Aberdeen, and Sir James Clark met us on board. Sir Robert Peel was to have gone vdth us, but could not, in consequence of his little girl being very iU. Blai/r Athole, Wednesday, September 11. At six o'clock we inquired and heard that we were in the port oi Dundee. Albert saw our oth er gentlemen, who had had a very bad passage. Tuesday night they had a dreadful storm. Dun dee is a very large place, and the port is large and open ; the situation of the town is very fine, but the town itself is not so. The Provost and peo ple had come on board, and wanted us to land later, but we got this satisfactorily arranged. At half past eight we got into our barge with Vicky, * Now pensioned : promoted to Gentleman Porter in 1854. A very good servant, and a native of Galashiels. C 2 58 Life in the Highlands. and our ladies and gentlemen. The sea was bright and blue ; the boat danced along beauti fuUy. We had about a quarter of a mile to row. A staircase, covered with red cloth, was arranged for us to land upon, and there were a great many people ; but every thing was so well managed that all crowding was avoided, and only the Magis trates were below the platform where the people were. Albert walked up the steps with me, I holding his arm and Vicky his hand, amid the loud cheers of the people, all the way to the car riage, our dear Vicky behaving like a grown-up person — not put out, nor frightened, nor nervous. We got into our post-chaise, and at the same time Renwick took Vicky up in his arms and put her in the next carriage with her governess and nurse. There was a great crowd in Dundee, but every thing was very well managed, and there would have been no crowding at all, had not, as usual, about twenty people begun to run along with the carriage, and thus forced a number of others to foUow. About three mUes beyond Dundee we stopped at the gate of Lord Camperdown's place: here a triumphal arch had been erected, and Lady Camperdown, and Lady Duncan and her little boy, with others, were all waiting to welcome us, and were very civU and kind. The little boy, lAfe in the Highlands. 59 beautifully dressed in the Highland dress, was carried to Vicky, and gave her a basket with fruit and flowers. I said to Albert I could hardly be lieve that our chUd was traveling with us — it put me so in mind of myself when I was the " little Princess." Albert observed that it was always said that parents lived their lives over again in their chUdren, which is a very pleasant feeling. The country from here to Cupar Angus is very well cultivated, and you see hills in the distance. The harvest is only now being got in, but is very good, and every thing much greener than in Fhi- gland. Nothing could be quieter than our jour ney, and the scenery is so beautiful ! It is very different from Engla/nd: all the houses buUt of stone ; the people so different — sandy hair, high cheek-bones ; chUdren with long shaggy hair, and bare legs and feet; little boys in kilts. IS e&r Dun keld, and also as you get more into the Highlands, there are prettier faces. Those jackets which the girls wear are so pretty ; all the men and women, as well as the children, look very healthy. Cupar Angus is a small place — a viUage — 14 miles from Dundee. There you enter Perthshire. We crossed the River Lsla, which made me think of my poor little dog " lsla." For about five or six mUes we went along a very pretty but rough 60 lAfe in ihe Highlands, cross-road, with the Grampiams in the distance. We saw Birnxmn Wood and Sir W. Stewart's place in that fine valley on the opposite side of the river. AU along such splendid scenery, and Albert enjoyed it so much — rejoicing in the beau ties of nature, the sight of mountains, and the pure air. The peeps oi Dunkeld, with the River Tay deep in the bottom, and the view of the bridge and ca thedral, surrounded by the high wooded hills, as you approached it, were lovely in the extreme. We got out at an inn (which was smaU, but very clean) at Dunkeld, and stopped to let Vicky have some broth. Such a charming view from the win dow ! Vicky stood and bowed to the people out of the vrindow. There never was such a good traveler as she is, sleeping in the carriage at her usual times, not put out, not frightened at noise or crowds, but pleased and amused. She never heard the anchor go at night on board ship, but slept as sound as a top. Shortly after leaving Dunkeld, which is 20 mUes from Blair, and 15 from Cwpar Angus, we met Lord Glenlyon in a carriage ; he jumped out, and rode with us the whole way to Blair — and a most beautiful road it is. Six mUes on, in the woods to the left, we could see Kinnaird House, where Life in ihe Highlands. 61 the late Lady Glenlyon (Lord Glenlyon's mother, who died about two or three months ago) used to live. Then we passed the point oi Logierait, where there are the remains of an ancient castle — the old Regality Court of the Dukes of Athole. At Moulinea/rn we tasted some of the "Athole brose," which was brought to the carriage. We passed Pitlochrie, a small vUlage, Faskally, a very pretty place of Mr. Butter's, to the left, and then came to the Pass of Killiecra/akie, which is quite magnificent ; the roa, Thursday, August 2, 1849. ) Aeeived here after a quick but not very pleas ant passage. The day was fine and bright, and the sea, to all appearance, very smooth ; but there was a dreadful swell, which made one incapable of reading or doing any thing. We passed the Land's End at nine o'clock in the morning. When we went on deck after eight in the even ing, we were close to the Cove of Cork, and could see many bonfires on the hill, and the rockets and lights that were sent off from the different steam ers. The harbor is immense, though the land is not very high, and, entering by twilight, it had a very fine effect. Lady Jocelyn, Miss Dawson, Lord Fortescue (Lord Steward), Sir George Grey (Sec retary of State for the Home Department), Miss Hildyard, Sir James Clark, and Mr Birch are on board Adth us. The equerries. Colonel Phipps and Colonel Gordon, are on board the " Black Eagle." 228 Life in the Highlands. Friday, August 3. The day was gray and excessively " muggy," which is the character of the Irish climate. The ships saluted at eight o'clock, and the " Ganges" (the flag-ship and a three-decker) and the "Hogue" (a, three-decker cut down, with very heavy guns, and with a screw put into her), which are both very near us, made a great noise. The harbor is very extensive, and there are several islands in it, one of which is very large. Spike Lsland is im mediately opposite us, and has a convict prison ; near it another island with the d6p6t, etc. In a line vdth that is the town of Cave, picturesquely built up a hiU. The two war-steamers have only just come in. The Admiral (Dickson) and the Captains of the vessels came on board. Later, Lord Bandon (Lord Lieutenant of the county). Lord Thomond, General Turner, Commander of the Forces at Cork, presented their respects, and Albert went on shore, and I occupied myself in Avriting and sketching. Albert returned before our luncheon, and had been walking about and visiting some of the cabins. We left the yacht at two with the ladies and gentlemen, and went on board the "Fairy," which was surrounded vdth rowing and sailing boats. Idfe in Hie Highlands. 229 We first went round the harbor, all the ships sa luting, as weU as numbers of steamers and yachts. We then went in to Cove, and lay alongside the landing-place, which was A^ery prettUy decorated, and covered with people ; and yachts, ships, and boats crowding all round. The two members, Messrs. Roche and Power, as well as other gentle men, including the Roman Catholic and Protest ant clergymen, and then the members of the Yacht Club, presented addresses. After which, to give the people the satisfaction of caUing the place Queensiawn, in honor of its being the first spot on which I set foot upon Irish ground, I stepped on shore amid the roar of cannon (for the artille ry were placed so close as quite to shake the tem porary room which we entered) and the enthusi astic shouts of the people. We immediately re- embarked, and proceeded up the River Lee toward Cork. It is extremely pretty and richly wooded, and reminded me of the Tamar. The first feature of interest we passed was a little bathing -place called Monkstown, and later Blackrock Castle, at which point we stopped to receive a salmon, and very pretty address fi'om the poor fishermen of Bladhrock. As we approached the city we saw people streaming in, on foot, on horseback, and many in 230 Idfe in Hie Highlands. jaunting-cars. When we reached Cork the " Fai ry" again lay alongside, and Ave received all the addresses : first, from the Mayor and Corporation (I knighted the Mayor immediately afterward) ; then from the Protestant Bishop and clergy; from the Roman Catholic Bishop and clergy ; from the Lord Lieutenant of the county, the Sheriffs, and others. The two Judges, who were holding their courts, also came on board in their robes. After all this was over we landed, and walked some few paces on to where Lord Bandon's carriage was ready to receive us. The ladies went with us, and Lord Bandon and the General rode on each side of the carnage. The Mayor preceded us, and many (Lord Listowel among the number) followed on horseback or in carriages. The 12th Lancers escorted us, and the Pensioners and In fantry lined the streets. I can not describe our route, but it vdll suffice to say that it took two hours ; that we drove through the principal streets ; twice through some of them ; that they Avere densely crowded, deco rated with flowers and triumphal arches; that the heat and dust were great ; that we passed by the new CoUege which is building — one of the four which are ordered by Act of Parliament; that our reception Avas most enthusiastic; and Life in ihe Highlands. 231 that every thing Avent off to perfection, and was very well arranged. Cork is not at aU like an English town, and looks rather foreign. The crowd is a noisy, excitable, but very good-humor ed one, running and pushing about, and laughing, talking, and shrieking. The beauty of the women is very remarkable, and struck us much; such beautiful dark eyes and hair, and such fine teeth ; almost every third woman was pretty, and some remarkably so. They wear no bonnets, and gen erally long blue cloaks ; the men are very poorly, often raggedly dressed; and many wear blue coats and short breeches, with blue stockings. We re -embarked at the same place, and re turned just as we came. Kingston Harbor, Dublin Bay, Sunday, August 5. Safely arrived here: I now continue my ac count. For the first two hours and a half the sea, though rough, was not disagreeable. We en tered Waterford Harbor yesterday at twenty min utes to four o'clock. The harbor is rocky on the right as one enters, and very flat to the left; as one proceeds the land rises on either side. We passed a little fort called Duncannon Fort, whence 232 Life in the Highlands. James H. embarked after the battle of the Boyne, and from which they had not saluted for fifty years. Farther up, between two little viUages, one on either side, each with its little chapel, pic turesquely situated on the top of the rock or hill, we anchored. The little fishing-place to our left is called Passage, and is famous for salmon : we had an excellent specimen for our dinner, Albert decided on going to Waterford, ten mUes up the river, in the " Fairy," with the boys, but as I felt giddy and tired, I preferred remaining quietly on board sketching, Albert returned after seven o'clock ; he had not landed. Viceregal Lodge, Phoenix Park, ) Monday, August 6. j Here we are in this very pretty spot, vdth a lovely view of the Wicklow Hills from the vdn- dow. But now to return to yesterday's proceed ings. We got under weigh at half past eight o'clock ; for three hours it was dreadfully rough, and I and the poor children were very sea-sick. When we had passed the Tusca/r Rock in Wexford the sea became smoother, and shortly after quite smooth, and the evening beautiful. After we passed Arklow Head the Wicklow HiUs came in Life in the Highlands. 233 sight: they are beautiful. The Sugarloaf and Carrick Mountain have finely -pointed outlines, with low hills in front and much wood. At half past six we came in sight of Dublin Bay, and were met by the " Sphinx" and " Stromboli" (which had been sent on to wait and to come in with us), the " Trident," and, quite close to the harbor, by the "Dragon," another war -steamer. With this large squadron we steamed slowly and majestic- aUy into the harbor oi Kingston, which was cov ered Adth thousands and thousands of spectators, cheering most enthusiasticaUy. It is a splendid harbor, and was fuU of ships of every kind. The wharf, where the landing-place was prepared, was densely crowded, and altogether it was a noble and stirring scene. It was just seven when we entered, and the setting sun lit up the country, the fine buUdings, and the whole scene Avith a gloAdng light, which was truly beautiful. We were soon surrounded by boats, and the enthusi asm and excitement of the people were extreme. While we were at breakfast the yacht was brought close up to the wharf, which was lined with troops. Lord and Lady Clarendon and George* came on board ; also Lords LansdoAvne and Clanricarde, the Primate, the Archbishop of * The Duke of Cambridge. 234, ldfe in ihe Highlands. Dublin, and many others. The address was pre sented by the Sheriff and gentlemen of the coun ty. As the clock struck ten we disembarked, stepping on shore from the yacht, Albert leading me and the chUdren, and all the others foUoAdng us. An immense multitude had assembled, who cheered most enthusiastically, the ships saluting and the bands playing, and it was really very striking. The space we had to walk along to the railroad was covered in, and lined with ladies and gentlemen strewing flowers. We entered the raUway carriages with the chUdren, the Claren dons, and the three ladies, and in a quarter of ah hour reached the Dublin station. Here we found our carriages, with the postUlions in their Ascot liveries. The two eldest children went with us, and the two younger ones with the three ladies. Sir Edward Blakeney, Commander-in-Chief in Ire land, rode on one side of the carriage, and George on the other, followed by a brilliant staff, and es corted by the 17th Lancers and the Carabiniers, It was a wonderful and striking scene, such masses of human beings, so enthusiastic, so ex cited, yet such perfect order maintained ; then the number of troops, the different bands stationed at certain distances, the waving of hats and handker chiefs, the bursts of welcome which rent the air — Life in the Highlands. 235 aU made it a never-to-be-forgotten scene, when one reflected how lately the country had been in open revolt and under martial law, Dublin is a very fine city, and Sackville Street and Merrion Square are remarkably large and handsome ; and the Bank, Trinity College, etc., are noble buUdings. There are no gates to the town, but temporary ones were erected under an arch ; and here we stopped, and the Mayor presented me the keys with some appropriate words. At the last triumphal arch a poor little dove was let doAvn into my lap, vdth an olive-branch round its neck, alive and very tame. The heat and dust were tremendous. We reached Plioenix Park, which is veiy extensive, at twelve. Lord and Lady Clarendon and all the household received us at the door. It is a nice, comfortable house, re minding us of Cla/remont, vdth a pretty terrace garden in front (laid out by Lady Normanby), and has a very extensive view of the Park and the fine range of the Wicklow Mountains. We are most comfortably lodged, and have very nice rooms, Tuesday, August 7, We drove into Dublin — with our two ladies — in Lord Clarendon's carriage, the gentlemen fol- 236 Idfe in the Highlands. lowing, and Adthout any escort. The people were very enthusiastic, and cheered a great deal. We went first to the Bank, where the Directors re ceived us, and then to the printing-room, and from thence viewed the old Houses of Lords and Com mons, for what is noAV the Bank was the old Par liament House, From here we drove to the Model School, where we were received by the Archbishop of Dublin, the Roman Catholic Arch bishop Murray (a fine, venerable-looking old man of eighty), and the other gentlemen connected Adth the school. We saw the Infant, the Girls', and the Boys' Schools ; in the latter, one class of boys was examined in mental arithmetic and in many very difficult things, and they all answered wonderfully, ChUdren of all creeds are admitted, and their different doctrines are taught separately, if the parents wish it ; but the only teaching en forced is that of the Gospel truths, and love and charity. This is truly Christian, and ought to be the case every where. About 1000 children are educated here annually, of which 300 are trained as schoolmasters and mistresses. From here wq visited Trinity College, the Lish University, which is not conducted upon so liberal a system, but into which Roman Catholics are admitted. Dr. Todd, the secretary, and a very learned man, well versed Life in ihe Highlands. 237 in the Irish language, showed us some most inter esting ancient manuscripts and relics, including St, Columba's Book (in which we wrote our names), and the original harp of King O'Brian, supposed to be the one from which the Irish arms are taken. The library is a very large, handsome room, like that in Trinity College, Cambrdge. We then proceeded toward home, the crowd in the streets immense, and so loyal. It rained a little at intervals. Home by a little past one. Albert went into Dublin again after luncheon, and I wrote and read, and heard our children say some lessons. At five we proceeded to Kilmainham Hospital, very near here ; Lord Clarendon going in the car riage vdth the ladies and myself, Albert and the other gentlemen riding. Sir Edward Blakeney and his staff, and George, received us. We saw the old pensioners, the chapel, and the hall, a fine large room (where all the pensioners dine, as at Chelsea), and then Sir Edward's private apart ments. We afterward took a drive through all the principal parts of Dublin — College Green, where the celebrated statue of William the Third is to be seen; Stephens's Green, by The Four Cou/rts, a very handsome buUding; and, though we were not expected, the crowds were in many 238 Life in the Highlands. places very great. We returned a little before seven. A large dinner. After dinner above two or three hundred people arrived, including most of the Irish nobility and many of the gentry; and afterward there was a ball. Wednesday, August 8. At twenty minutes to one o'clock we left for Dublin, I and all the ladies in CA'-ening dresses, all the gentlemen in uniform. We drove straight to the Castle. Every thing here as at St. James's Levee. The staircase and throne-room quite like a palace. I received (on the throne) the addresses of the Lord Mayor and Corporation, the Universi ty, the Archbishop and Bishops, both Roman Cath olic and Anglican, the Presbyterians, the non-sub scribing Presbyterians, and the Quakers. They also presented Albert Adth addresses.* Then fol lowed a very long Lev6e, which lasted without intermission tUl twenty minutes to six o'clock ! Two thousand people were presented ! * Lord Breadalbane (Lord Chamberlain) was in attend ance, having joined us on our arrival in Dublin. Life in ihe Highlands. 239 Thxi/rsday, August 9. There was a great and brilliant review in the Phoenix Park — six thousand one hundred and sixty men, including the Constabulary. In the evening we two dined alone, and at half past eight o'clock drove into Dublin for the DraAdng- room. It is always held here of an evening. I should think between two and three thousand people passed before us, and one thousand six hundred ladies were presented. After it was over we walked through St. Patrick's Hall and the other rooms, and the crowd was very great. We came back to the Phoenix Park at half past twelve, the streets still densely crowded. The city was iUuminated. Friday, August 10. At a quarter to twelve o'clock we set out, vdth aU our suite, for Carton, the Duke of Leinster's, Lord and Lady Clarendon in the carriage with us. We went through Woodlands, a place belonging to Mr. White, in which there are beautiful lime- trees ; and we passed by the " Preparatory Col lege" for Maynooth ; aijd not far from Carton we saw a number of the Maynooth students. The 240 Life in the Highlands. park of Carton is very fine. We arrived there at a little past one, and were received by the Duke and Duchess of Leinster, the Kildares, Mr. and Lady C. Repton, and their two sons. We walked out into the garden, where all the company were assembled, and the two bands playing ; it is very pretty — a sort of formal French garden, with rows of Irish yews. We walked round the garden twice, the Duke leading me, and Albert the Duch ess. The Duke is one of the kindest and best of men. After luncheon we walked out and saw some of the country people dance jigs, which was very amusing. It is quite different from the Scotch reel ; not so animated, and the steps different, but very droll. The people were very poorly dressed in thick coats, and the women in shawls. There was one man who was a regular specimen of an Irishman, Adth his hat on one ear. vOthers in blue coats, with short breeches and blue stockings. There were three old and tattered pipers playing. The Irish pipe is very different to the Scotch ; it is very weak, and they don't blow into it, but merely have small beUows which they move with the arm. We walked round the pleasure-grounds, and after this got into a carriage vdth the Duke and Duchess, our ladies and gentlemen following Life in the Highlands. 241 in a large jaunting-car, and the people riding, run ning, and driving with us, but extremely well-be haved ; and the Duke is so kind to them, that a word from him will make them do any thing. It was very hot, and yet the people kept running the whole way, and in the thick woolen coats, which it seems they always wear here. We drove along the park to a spot which commands an ex tensive view of the Wicklow Hills. We then went down an entirely new road, cut out of the solid rock, through a beautiful valley, full of the finest trees, groAdng among rocks close to a piece of wa ter. We got out, and walked across a little wood en bridge to a very pretty little cottage, entirely ornamented Adth shells, etc., by the Duchess. We drove back in the jaunting-car, which is a double one, Adth four wheels, and held a number of us — I sitting on one side, between Albert and the Duke ; the Duchess, Lady Jocelyn, Lord Claren don, and Lady Waterford on the opposite side ; George at the back, and the equerries on either side of the coachman. As soon as we returned to the house we took leave of our hosts, and went back to the Phoenix Park a different way from the one we came, alqng the banks of the Liffey, through Mr. Colson's park, in which there were the most splendid beeches I L 242 Life in the Highlands. have ever seen — feathering doAvn quite to the ground; and farther along the road and river were some lovely sycamore -trees. We drove through the village of Lucan, where there were fine decorations, and arches of bays and laurel. We passed below The St/roAvberry-beds, which are really curious to see — quite high banks of them — and numbers of people come from Dublin to eat these strawberries; and there are rooms at the bottom of these banks on purpose. We were home a little after five. On Boa/rd the Victoria and Albert, \ in Loch Ryan, \ Sunday, August 12. ) We arrived after a dreadfully rough though very short passage, and have taken refuge here. To return to Friday. We left the Phoenix Park, where we spent so pleasant a time, at six o'clock, Lord Clarendon and the two elder chUdren going in the carriage Adth us, and drove vdth an escort to the Dublin RaUway Station. The toAvn was immensely crowded, and the people most enthusi astic. George met us there, and we took him, the Clarendons, and Lord LansdoAvne and our ladies into the carriage vdth us. We arrived speedUy Life in the Highlands. 243 at Kingstown,yv]xere there were just as many peo ple and as much enthusiasm as on the occasion of our disembarkation. We stood on the paddle- box as we slowly steamed out oi Kingstown, amid the cheers of thousands and thousands, and sa lutes from all the ships ; and I waved my hand kerchief as a parting acknowledgment of their loyalty. We soon passed Hawth and Lrelands Eye. The ship was very steady, though the sea Avas not smooth, and the night thick and rainy, and we feared a storm was coming on. Saturday, August 11. We reached Belfast Harbor at four o'clock. The wind had got up amazingly, and the morning was a very bad and stormy one. We had not had a very quiet night for sleep ing, though very smooth. The weather got worse and worse, and blew a real gale ; and it was quite doubtful whether we could start as we had in tended, on our return from Belfast, for Scotland. We saw the Mayor and General (Bainbrigg), who had come on board after breakfast. At a quarter past one we started vdth the la dies and gentlemen for the " Fairy." Though we had only two minutes' row in the barge, there 244 Life in the Highlands. was such a sweU that the getting in and out, and the rolling and tossing in the boat, were very dis agreeable. We had to keep in the little pavilion, as the squalls were so violent as to cover the " Fairy" with spray. We passed between Haly- waad and Carrickfergus, celebrated for the first landing of WiUiam III. We reached Belfast in half an hour, and fortunately the sun came out. We lay close alongside the wharf, where a very fine landing-place was arranged, and where thou sands were assembled. Lord Londonderry came on board, and numerous deputations with ad dresses, including the Mayor (whom I knighted), the Protestant Bishop of Down and clergy, the Catholic Bishop Denvir (an excellent and modest man, the Sheriff and Members for the county, Avith Lord Donegal (to whom the greater part of Bel fast belongs). Dr. Henry, from the new CoUege, and the Presbyterians (of whom there are a great many here). Lady Londonderry and her daugh ter also came on board. There was some delay in getting the gang-board down, as they had made much too large a one. Some planks on board were arranged, and we landed easily in this way. The landing-place was covered in, and very taste fully decorated. We got into Lord Londonder ry's carriage with the two ladies, and Lord Lon- Life in the Highlands. 245 donderry himself got on the rumble behind with the two sergeant footmen, Renwick and Birbage, both A'-ery taU, large men, and the three must have been far from comfortable. The town was beautifully decorated with flow ers, hangings, and very fine triumphal arches, the galleries fuU of people, and the reception very hearty. The people are a mixture of nations, and the female beauty had almost disappeared. I have aU along forgotten to say that the favor ite motto Avritten up on most of the arches, etc., and in every place, was, " Cead mUe failte," which means " A hundred thousand welcomes" in Irish, which is very like Gaelic ; it is, in fact, the lan guage, and has existed in books from the earliest period, whereas Gaelic has only been written since half a century, though it was always spoken.. They often called out " Cead mile failte !" and it appears in every sort of shape. Lord Donegal rode on one side of the carriage and the General on the other. We stopped at the Linen Hall to see the exhibition of the flax and linen manufacture. Lord Downshire and several other gentlemen received us there, and conducted us through the different rooms, where we saw the whole process in its different stages. First the plant, then the flax after being steeped, 246 Life in the Highlands. then the spun flax ; lastly, the linen, cambric, and cloth of every sort and kind. It is really very interesting to see, and it is wonderful to what a state of perfection it has been brought. We got into our carriages again. This time Lord Londonderry did not attempt to resume his uncomfortable position. We went along through the Botanic Garden, and stopped and got out to look at the new Col lege which is to be opened in October. It is a handsome building. We passed through several of the streets, and returned to the place of em barkation. Belfast is a fine town, with some good buildings — ^for instance, the Bank and Exchange — and is considered the Liverpool and Manchester oi Lreland. I have forgotten to mention the Constabulary who are a remarkably fine body of men, 13,000 in number (altogether in Ireland), all Irish, and chiefly Roman Catholics ; and not one of whom, during the trying times last year, fraternized with the rebels. We left amid immense cheering, and reached the " Victoria and Albert" at half past six. It was blovdng as hard as ever, and the getting in and out was as disagreeable as before. We decided on spending the night where we were. Life in ihe Highlands. 247 unless the wind should drop by three or four o'clock in the morning. Many bonfires were lighted on the surrounding hiUs and coasts. Sunday, August 12. The weather no better, and as there seemed no hope of its improvement, we decided on starting at two o'clock, and proceeding either to Loch Ryan or Lamlash. Lord Adolphus read the service at half past ten, at which the two eldest chUdren were also present. I intend to create Bertie " Earl of Dublin," as a compliment to the town and country ; he has no Irish title, though he is born with several Scotch ones (belonging to the heirs to the Scotch throne, and which we have inherited from James VI. of Scotland and I. of England) ; and this was one of my father's titles. The preparations on deck for the voyage were not encouraging ; the boats hoisted up, the ac commodation ladders drawn quite close up, every piece of carpet removed, and everything covered; and, indeed, my worst fears were realized. We started at two, and I went below and lay down shortly after, and directly we got out of the har bor the yacht began rolling for the first three 248 Life in ihe Highlands. quarters of an hour in a way which was dreadful, and there were two rolls, when the waves broke over the ship, which I never shall forget. I got gradually better, and at five we entered Loch Ryan, truly thankful to be at the end of our voyage. Albert came doAvn to me, and then I went up on deck, and he told me how awful it had been. The first great wave which came over the ship threw every body down in every direc tion. Poor little Affie* was throvm down and sent rolling over the deck, and was drenched, for the deck was swimming vdth water. Albert told me it was quite frightful to see the enormous waves rising like a wall above the sides of the ship. We did not anchor so high up in Jjoch Ryan as we had done two years ago, but it was a very safe, quiet anchorage, and we were very glad to be there. Albert went on shore. Monday, August 13. We started at four o'clock in the morning, and the yacht rolled a little, but the motion was an easy one. We were in the Clyde by breakfast- time, but the day was very bad, constant squalls hiding the scenery. We left Greenock to oui' * Prince Alfred. Life in ihe Highlands. 249 left, and proceeded a little way up Loch Goil, which opens into Loch Long, and is very fine; it seems extraordinary to have such deep water in a narrow loch, and so immediately below the mountains, which are very rocky. We turned back and went up Loch Long, which I remem bered so well, and which is so beautiful. We let go the anchor at Arrochar, the head of the lake, intending to land and proceed to Loch Lo mond, where a steamer was waiting for us ; but it poured with rain most hopelessly. We waited an hour in vain, and decided on stopping till after luncheon, and making the attempt at three o'clock. We lunched and stepped into the boat, as it had cleared a little; but just then it began pouring again more violently than before, and we put back much disappointed ; but Albert persevered, and he went off with Mr. Anson, Sir James Clark, and Captain Robinson almost directly afterward. Just then it cleared, and I felt so vexed that we had not gone ; but there have been some terrible showers since. We left Arrochar a little before four. Loch Long looking beautiful as we returned. L2 250 Life in ihe Highlands. Perth, Tuesday, August 14. We anchored yesterday in Roseneath Bay, close to Roseneath — a very pretty spot, and looking toward the mountains which you see in Loch Goil. One of them is caUed " The Duke of Argyll's Bowling-green." Albert only returned soon after eight o'clock, having been able to see a good deal of Loch Lomond, and even Rob Roy's Cave, in spite of heavy showers. Captain Beechey (who was with us during the whole voyage in '47, and again the whole of this one to pilot us), Captain Crispin, and Captain Robinson (who met us this morning and piloted Albert in Loch Lomond, and did the same for us in '47), dined with us also, and we had much interesting conversation about the formation of glaciers, etc., in all of which Cap tain Beechey (who is a very intelligent man, and who has been all over the world) took part. He was with Sir Edward Parry at the North Pole, and told us that they had not seen daylight for four months. They heaped up snow over the ship and covered it in with boards to keep the cold off. Life in the Highlands. 251 Balmm^al, Wednesday, August 15. It seems like a dream to be here in our dear Highland home again ; it certainly does not seem as if it were a year since we were here ! Now I must describe the doings of yesterday. We em barked on board the " Fairy" at a quarter to nine o'clock, and proceeded up the Clyde in pouring rain and high wind, and it was very stormy till after we had passed Greenock. We steamed past Port Glasgow, then came Dumbarton and Ei'- sMn^. The river narrows and winds extraordi narily here, and you do not see Glasgow till you are quite close upon it. As we approached, the banks were lined Adth people, either on estrades or on the sea-shore, and it was amusing to see all those on the shore take flight, often too late, as the water bounded up from the sweU caused by the steamer. ^ The weather, which had been dreadful, cleared up just as we reached Glasgow, about eleven, and continued fine for the remainder of the day. Sev eral addresses were presented on board, first by the Lord Provost, who was knighted (Colonel Gordon's sword being used), then one from the county, the clergy (Established Church and Free Kirk), and from the Houses of Commerce. We 252 lAfe in the Highlands. landed immediately after this : the landing-place was very handsomely decorated. We then enter ed our carriage with the two eldest chUdren, the two others foUoAving. Mr. Alison (the celebrated historian, who is the Sheriff) rode on one side of the carriage, and General Riddell (the Command er of the Forces in Scotland) on the other. The crowds assembled were quite enormous, but excel lent order was kept, and they were very enthusi astic. Mr. Alison said that there were 500,000 people out. The town is a handsome one, with fine streets built in stone, and many fine buildings and churches. We passed over a bridge com manding an extensive view down two quays, Avhich Albert said was very like Pan-is. There are many large shops and warehouses, and the shipping is immense. We went up to the old Cathedral, where Prin cipal Mac Farlane, a very old man, received us, and directed our attention, as we walked through the church gates, to an immensely high chimney, the highest, I believe, in existence, which belongs to one of the manufactories. The Cathedral is a very fine one, the choir of which is fitted up as a Presbyterian Church. We were shown the crypt and former burial-place of the bishops, which is in a very high state of preservation. The architec- Life in ihe Highlands. 253 ture is beautiful. It is in this crypt that the famous scene in Rob Roy is laid, where Rob Roy gives Frank Osbaldistone warning that he is in danger. There is an old monument of St. Kenti- gern, commonly caUed St. Mungo, the founder of the Cathedral. We re-entered our carriages and went to the TJniversity, an ancient building, and which has produced many great and learned men. Here we got out and received an address. We only stopped a few minutes, and then went on again toward the Exchange, in front of which is Marochetti's equestrian statue of the Duke of WeUington, very like and beautifuUy executed. We got out at the raUway station, and started al most immediately. We passed Stirling in the distance, and a little before four we reached Perth, y^hevQ the, people were very friendly. We took the four children in our carriage and drove straight to the " George Inn," where we had the same rooms that we had last time. Albert went out immediately to see the prison, and at six we drove together along the London Road (as they rather strangely call it) toward Moncrie^e. The view was perfectly beautiful, and is the finest of Perth and the grand bridge over the Tay. 254 Life in the Highlands. Wednesday, August 15. At a quarter to eight o'clock we started. The two boys and Vicky were in the carriage with us, Alice followed Adth the ladies. It was a long journey, but through very beautiful scenery. We saw the Grampians as we left Perth. We first changed horses at Blairgowrie, 15 mUes. Then came a very long stage of 20 miles, to the Spittal of Glenshee. We first passed the house of a Lieut.- Colonel Clark Rattray, called Craig Hall, over hanging a valley or glen above which we drove, and after this came into completely wild High land scenery, with barren rocky hills, through which the road winds to the Spittal of Glenshee, which can scarcely be caUed a viUage, for it con sists of only an inn and two or three cottages. We got out at the inn, where we found Mr. Far quharson and his son, and some of his men. Here we had some luncheon, and then set off again. The next stage of 15 mUes to Castleton is over a very bad, and at night positively dangerous road, through wild, grand scenery, with very abrupt turns and steep ascents. One sharp turn is call ed The Devils Elbow. The Farquharson men joined us again here, some having gone on before, and others having followed from the inn, skipping Life in ihe Highlands. 255 over stones and rocks with the rapidity and light ness peculiar to Highlanders. They remained with us till we were able to trot on again. We drove through a very fine pSss called Cairn Wall, and were overtaken by a heavy shower. When we reached Castleton the day had cleared, and we were able to open the carriage again. Here we were met by Sir Alexander Duff and the Duke of Leeds at the head of their men. Lady Duff, Mr. and Lady Agnes Duff, Miss Farquhar son, and several of the children, and the Duchess of Leeds, came up to the carriage. The drive from Castleton to Balmoral, particularly the beau tiful part from the Balloch Buie, was well known to us, and it was a great pleasure to see it all again in its beauty. Grant had met us at the Spittal of Glenshee, and ridden the whole way vdth us. At the door at Balmoral were Mac kay, who was playing, and Macdonald in full dress. It was about four when we arrived. 256 Life in ihe Highlands. Yachting Excuesion. On Board the Victoria and Albert, Da/rtmouth, Thursday, August 20, 1846. We steamed past the various places on the beautiful coast oi Devonshire which we had passed three years ago— Seaton, Sidmouth, off which we stopped for ten minutes, Axmouth, Teignmouth, etc., until we came to Babbicombe, a smaU bay, where we remained an hour. It is a beautiful spot, which before we had only passed at a dis tance. Red cliffs and rocks, with wooded hills like Ltaly, and reminding one of a baUet or play where nymphs are to appear — such rocks and grottoes, Adth the deepest sea, on which there was not a ripple. We intended to disembark and walk up the hill; but it came on to rain very much, and we could not do so. We tried to sketch the part looking toward Tarbay. I never saw our good children looking better, or in high er spirits. I contrived to give Vicky a little les son by making her read in her English history. We prQceeded on our course again at half past one o'clock, and saw Torquay very plainly, which is very fine. The sea looked so stormy and the Life in ihe Highlands. 257 weather became so thick that it was thought best to give up Plymouth (for the third time), and to put into that beautiful Dartmouth, and we accord ingly did so, in pouring rain, the deck SAdmming Avith water, and all of us with umbrellas, the chUdren being most anxious to see every thing. NotAdthstanding the rain, this place is lovely, with its wooded rocks, and church, and castle at the entrance. It puts me much in mind of the beautiful Rhine, and its fine ruined castles, and the Lurlei. I am now below writing, and crowds of boats are surrounding us on all sides. Plymouth Ha/n'bor, '\ Friday, August 21. j We got under weigh by half past six o'clock, and on looking out we saw the sea so calm and blue, and the sun so bright that we determined to get up. It was a very fine day, but there was a great deal of swell. At length, at half past nine, we entered the splendid harbor of Plymouth, and anchored again below Mount Edg cumbe, which, with its beautiful trees, including pines, groAving down into the sea, looks more love ly than ever. I changed my dress, and read in- 258 Idfe in ihe Highlands. numerable letters and dispatches, and then went oii deck and saw the authorities — the Admirals and Generals. I did Vicky's lessons and Avrote ; and at half past one we went on board the "Fairy" (leaving the children on board the " Victoria and Albert"), vdth all our ladies and gentlemen, as well as Sir James Clark, who has joined us here. We steamed up the Tama/r, going first a little way up the St. Germans River, which has very prettUy wooded banks, Trematon Castle, to the right, which belongs to Bertie as Duke of CornwaU, and Jats to the left, are extremely pretty. We stopped here, and afterward turned back and • went up the Tamar, which at first seemed flat, but as we proceeded the scenery became quite beauti ful — richly wooded hills, the trees groAdng down into the water, and the river vdnding so much as to have the effect of a lake. In this it reminded me so much of going up the Rhine, though I don't think the river resembles the Rhine. Albert thought it like the Danube. The finest parts be gin about Saltash, which is a small but prettily built tovm. To the right as you go up all is un- English looking ; a little farther on is the mouth of the Tavy : here the river becomes very beauti ful. We passed numbers of mines at work. Far ther on, to the left, we came to Pentillie Castle, Idfe in ihe Highlands. 259 situated on a height most beautifuUy wooded down to the water's edge, and the river winding rapidly above and below it, Albert said it re minded him of the situation of Greinburg, on the Danube. Not much farther on we came to the picturesque little village and landing-place of Cothele, at the foot of a thickly wooded bank, with a valley on one side. Here the river is very narrow. We landed, and drove up a steep hill, under fine trees, to the very curious old House of Cothele, where we got out of the carriage. It is most curious in every way, as it stands in the same state as it was in the time of Henry VII, and is in great preservation — ^the old rooms hung vdth arras, etc. We drove doAvn another way, under beautiful trees and above the fine valley ; embarked, and proceeded doAvn the river. The evening was beautiful, the sun bright, and the sky and sea so blue. We arrived just too late for the launch of the frigate " Thetis." It reminded me so much of when we were here three years ago, as we ap proached our yacht, surrounded by myriads of boats, and had to row through them in our barge. We returned at half past five. The evening was delightful — clear, calm, and cloudless, but a good deal of noise in the boats around us. Lord and 260 Idfe in the Highlands. Lady Mount Edgcumbe and Sir James Clark dined with us. Plymouth, Saturday, August 22. Albeit was up at six o'clock, as he Avas to go to Dartmoor Forest. At ten I went in the barge Adth the two children, the ladies. Baron Stockmar, and Lord Alfred Paget, and landed at Mount Edg cumbe, where we were received by Lady Mount Edgcumbe, her two boys, her sister and nieces, and beyond the Ian-ding -place by Lord Mount Edg cumbe. There were crowds where we landed, and I feel so shy and put out vdthout Albert. I got into a carriage with the children and Lady Mount Edgcumbe — ^Lord Mount Edgcumbe going before us and the others following — and took a lovely drive along the road which overhangs the bay, commanding such beautiful views on all sides, and going under and by such fine trees. We had been there three years ago ; but it is always a pleasure to see it again. The day very hot and a little hazy. We came to the house at eleven. The children went Adth their governess and the other children into the shade, and had luncheon in the" house, and I remained in the gallery — a very pret ty room, with some fine pictures, and with a door Life in ihe Highlands. 261 opening on the garden, and commanding a lovely little bit of sea view, which I tried to sketch. A little after twelve we returned to the yacht, which had been beset with boats ever since six in the morning. Albert returned safely to me at one o'clock, much pleased with his trip, and said that Da/rtmoar Forest was like Scotland. At two we went with our ladies and gentlemen, and vdthout the children, again to the landing- place at Mount Edgcumbe, where we were re ceived as before, and drove up to the house. There are some of the finest and tallest chestnut- trees in existence here, and the beech-trees grow very peculiarly — quite tall and straight — the branches growing upward. We walked about the gaUery, and looked into Lady Mount Edg- cumbe's little room at one end of it, which is charming, and full of pretty little thingg Avhich she has coUected, and then we took luncheon in a room where there are some fine portraits by Sir Joshua Reynolds. They are all of the Mount Edgcumbe family, one of whom was his great patron. Sir Joshua was bom a few miles from Plymouth. There are in the same room pictures by him when he first began to paint, which have kept their color ; then when he made experiments — and these are quite faded; and again of his 262 Idfe in the Highlands. works when he discovered his mistakes, and the color of his pictures is then beautiful. We walked about the garden near the house, and then drove to the " Kiosk," by beautiful stone pines and pi nasters, which interested Albert very much, and put me so much in mind of Mr. Lear's drawings. The view from this " Kiosk," which is very high over the sea and town, is most beautiful, and the sea Avas like glass, not a ripple to be seen. We walked down a very pretty road or path through the woods and trees tUl we met the carriage, and we drove along that beautiful road, which is said to be a little like the Cornice, overhanging the sea, down to the place of embarkation, where we took leave of them all, and returned to our yacht by half past four. Poor Lord Mount Edgcumbe is in such a sad, helpless state, but so patient and cheerful. We went on board just to fetch the children, and then on to the " Fairy," and steamed in her round the harbor, or rather bay, in which there are such pretty spots ; into the Cat Water, from whence we rowed in one of the barges a lit tle way up the river to look^t Saltram, Lord Mor- ley's ; after that back to the " Fairy," went in her into Mill Bay, Sutton Pool, and Stonehouse, and returned to the yacht by half past six. Life in the Highlands. 263 Ln Guernsey Bay, off St. Pierre, Guernsey, \ Sunday, August 23. j On waking, the morning was so lovely that we could not help regretting that we could not delay our trip a little, by one day at least, as the Coun cil which was to have been on the 25th is now on the 29th. We thought, however, we could do nothing but sail for Torbay at half past nine, and for Osborne on Monday. While dressing, I kept thinking whether we could not manage to see Fal mouth, or something or other. Albert thought we might perhaps manage to see one of the Chan nel Lslands, and accordingly he sent for Lord Adol phus Fitzclarence, and it was settled that we should go to Guernsey, which delighted me, as I had so long Adshed to see it. The day splendid. The General and Admiral came on board to take leave. Sir J. West is the Admiral, and General Murray the General ; and at about half past nine we set off, and the sea the whole way was as calm as it was in '43. Plymouth is beautiful, and we shall always be deUghted to return there. For two hours we were in expectation of seeing land; but it was very hazy, and they did not know where we were till about six, when land was seen by the " Fairy," who came to report it, 264 Life in ihe Highlands. and then all the other vessels went on before us. As we approached we were struck by the beauty of the Guernsey coast, in which there are several rocky bays, and the tovpn oi St. Pierre is very pic turesquely buUt, down to the water's edge. You see Sark (or Sercq) as you enter the harbor to the right, and farther on, close opposite St. Pierre, two islands clqse together — Herm and Jethou. The bay, with these fine islands, is really most curious. We anchored at seven immediately opposite St. Pierre, and with the two islands on the other side of us. We dined at eight, and found on going on deck the whole town illuminated, which had a very pretty effect, and must have been done very quickly, for they had no idea of our coming. It is built like a foreign toAvn. The people speak mostly French among themselves. August 24. St. Pierre is very picturesquelooking, with very high, bright-colored houses built down almost into the sea. The College and Church are very con spicuous buildings. This island with its bold point, and the little one of Comet with a sort of castle on it (close to which we were anchored), and the three islands of Herm, Jethou, and San-k, Idfe in ihe Highlands. 265 Adth innumerable rocks, are really very fine and peculiar, especially as they then were in bright sunlight. We both sketched, and at a quarter to nine got into our barge with our ladies. The pier and shore were lined Adth crowds of people, and vdth ladies dressed in white, singing " God save the Queen," and strewing the ground vdth flow ers. We walked to our carriage, preceded by Gen eral Napier, brother to Sir Charles (in Sdnde), a very singular-looking old man, taU and thin, vdth an aquUine nose, piercing eyes, and white mus taches and hair. The people were extremely well- behaved and friendly, and received us very warm ly as we drove through the narrow streets, which were decorated Adth fiowers and flags, and lined vdth the Guernsey militia, 2000 strong, Adth their several bands. Some of the mUitia were mounted. The vegetation beyond the toAvn is exceedingly fine, and the evergreens and fiowers most abund ant. The streets and hUls steep, and the view from the fort, which is very high (and where Gen eral Napier presented me Adth the keys), is ex tremely beautiful. You look over the Bay of Cfuernsey, and see opposite to you the islands of Herm, Jethou, and Sa/)'k, vdth Alderney, and the coast of France, Cape de la Hague, to the left in the distance, and to the right in the distance, Jer- M 266 Idfe in ihe Highlands. sey. The island appears very flourishing. In the town they speak English, but in the country French, and this is the same in all the islands. They belonged to the Duchy of Normandy, and have been in our possession ever since WUliam the Conqueror's time. King John was the last of their sovereigns who visited them. We drove along the pier, and then embarked amid great cheering. It was aU admirably managed; the people are extremely loyal. We got under weigh a little before one, and in about an hour and a half we came close to Alder ney, seeing all the time the French coast. Cape de la Hague very plainly to our right, and leadng the Casquets Lights to our left. Alderney is quite different to all the other islands, excessively rocky and barren, and the rocks in and under the sea are most frightful. Idfe in the Highlands. 267 Second Yachting Excuesion. On Boa/rd the Victoria and Albert, \ Off St. Heliers, Jersey, > Wednesday, September 2, 1846. ) At a quarter past seven o'clock we set off with Vicky, Bertie, Lady Jocelyn, Miss Kerr, Mdlle. Gruner, Lord Spencer, Lord Palmerston, and Sir James Clark (Mr. Anson and Colonel Grey being on board the " Black Eagle"), and embarked at Osborne Pier. There was a good deal of swell. It was fine, but very cold at first. At twelve we saw Alderney, and between two and three got into the Alderney Race, where there was a great deal of rolling, but not for long. We pass ed between Alderney and the French coast — Cape de la Hague — and saw the other side of Alderney; and then, later, Sa/rk, Guernsey, and the other islands. After passing the Alderney Race it became quite smooth ; and then Bertie put on his saUor's dress, which was beautifully made by the man on board who makes for our saUors. When he appeared, the officers and saU- ors, who were aU assembled on deck to see him, cheered, and seemed deUghted vdth him. 268 Life in ihe Highlands. The coast of Jersey is very beautiful, and we had to go nearly aU round, in order to get to St. Heliers. We first passed the point caUed Rond- nez, then Grosnez with a tower, St. Ouen's Bay, La Rocca, a curious old tower on a rock, and then Brelade's Bay. The red cliffs and rocks, vdth the setting sun gUding and lighting them all up, were beautiful. At last, at a quarter to seven, we arrived in this fine large bay oi St.Aubin, in which lies St. Heliers ; and after dinner we went on deck to see the iUumination and the bonfires. Off St.Heliers, Thwrsday, September 3. A splendid day. I never saw a more beautiful deep blue sea, quite like Naples ; and Albert said that this fine bay of St. Aubin, in which we lie, really is like Naples. Noi/rmont Point terminates in a low tower to our left, with St. Aubin and a tower in a rock in front of it ; farther in, and to our right, Elizabeth Castle, a picturesque fort on a rock, with the town of St.Heliers behind it. The coloring and the effect of light were inde scribably beautiful. We got into our barge Adth our ladies and gentlemen, and then went on board the " Fairy," until we were close to the harbor, and then we got into the barge again. We land- Idfe in ihe Highlands, 269 ed at the stairs of the Victoria Ha/rbor, amid the cheers of the numberless crowds, guns firing, and bands playing ; were received, as at Guernsey, by aU the ladies of the toAsnn, very gayly dressed, who, streAdng flowers on our way, conducted us to a canopy, where I received the address of the States and of the mUitia. We then got into our carriage and drove along the pier. Colonel Le Couteur, my militia aid-de camp, riding by my side, with other officers, and by Albert's side Colonel Le Breton, commanding the militia, who, 5000 strong, lined the streets, and were stationed along the pier — ^the States walking in front. The crowds were immense, but every thing in exceUent order, and the people most enthusiastic, though not more so than the good Guernsey people ; the town is much larger, and they had much longer time for preparations ; the decorations and arches of flowers were beauti fully done, and there were numberless kind in scriptions. All the country people here speak French, and so did the police who walked near us. It was a very gratifying reception. There was a seat in one of the streets filled by French women from Grouwille, curiously dressed vdth white handkerchiefs on their heads. After pass ing through several streets we drove up to the 270 Idfe in the Highlands. Government House, but did not get out. General Gibbs, the Governor, is very infirm. We then proceeded at a quicker pace — the walking procession having ceased — through the interior of the island, which is extremely pretty and very green — orchards Adthout end, as at Mayence. We passed the curious old tower of La Hougue Bie, oi very ancient date, and went to the Castle of Mont Orgueil, in Grauville Bay, very beautifuUy situated, completely overhanging the sea, and where Robert, Duke of Normandy, son of WiUiam the Conqueror, is said to have Uved. We walked part of the way up, and from one of the batteries, where no guns are now mounted, you command the bay, and the French coast is distinctly seen, only 13 miles distant. The people are very proud that Mont Orgueil had never been taken; but I have since learned it was taken by surprise and held for a few days ; Guernsey, however, never was taken. We then returned to our carriage, and proceed ed to the pier by a shorter road, and through a different part of the town. There is a peculiar elm-tree in the island, which is very pretty, and unlike any other — the leaf and the way it grows almost resembling the acacia. The crowd was very great and the heat very intense in going back. Idfe in the Highlands. 271 We re-embarked in the barge, but had only to go a few yards to the " Fairy." The situation of the harbor is very fine; and crowned with the fort, and covered by numbers of people, was like an amphitheatre. The heat of the sun, and the glare, had made me so ill and giddy that I re mained below the greater part of the afternoon, and Albert went out for an hour on the " Fairy." Falmouth Harbor, Friday, Sept. 4. A beautiful day again, with the same brilliant ly blue sea. At a quarter to eight o'clock we got under weigh. There was a great deal of motion at first, and for the greater part of the day the ship pitched, but getting up the sails steadied her. From five o'clock it became quite smooth ; at half past five we saw land, and at seven we entered Falmouth Harbor, where we were immediately surrounded by boats. The evening was beauti ful, and the sea as smooth as glass, and without even a ripple. The calmest night possible, with a beautiful moon, when we went on deck ; every now and then the splashing of oars and the hum of voices were heard ; but they were the only sounds, unlike the constant dashing of the sea against the vessel, which we heard all the time we were at Jersey. 272 Idfe in ihe Highlands. Mount's Bay, Cornwall, Satwrday, September 5. At eight o'clock we left Falmouth and pro ceeded along the coast of CornwaU, which be comes bold and rugged beyond the Lizard Point and as one approaches La/nds End. At about twelve we passed Land's End, which is very fine and rocky, the view from thence opening beauti fully. We passed quite close by the Longships, some rocks on which stands a light-house. The sea was unusually smooth for the Land's End. We went beyond a point vdth some rocks near it, called The Prisons, and then steamed back : the famous Botallack mine lies here. A little before two we landed in this beautiful Mount's Bay, close below St. Michael's Mount, which is very fine. When the bay first opened to our view the sun was lighting up this beautiful castle, so pecul iarly built on a lofty rock, and which forms an island at high water. Life in ihe Highlands. 273 In entering the bay we passed the small vUlage of Mousehole and the town of Penzance, which is prettily situated, and one mile and a half from St. Michael's Mount. The day brightened just as we arrived, and the sea again became so blue. Soon after our arrival we anchored; the crowd of boats was beyond every thing ; numbers of Cornish pilcher fishermen, in their curious large boats, kept going round and round, and then an chored, besides many other boats fuU of people. They are a very noisy, talkative race, and speak a kind of English hardly to be understood. During our voyage I was able to give Vicky her lessons. At three o'clock we aU got into the barge, including the children and MdUe. Gruner, their governess, and rowed through an avenue of boats of aU descriptions to the " Fairy," where we went on board. The getting in and out of the barge was no easy task. There was a good deal of swell, and the " Fairy" herself roUed amazingly. We steamed round the bay to look at St. Michael's Mount from the other side, which is even more beautiful, and then went on to Penzance. Albert landed near Penzance vdth all the gentlemen ex cept Lord Spencer (who is most agreeable, effi cient, and useful at sea, being a captain of the Navy) and Colonel Grey, and went to see the M2 274 Idfe in ihe Highlands, smelting of copper and tin, and the works in ser pentine stone at Penzance, We remained here a little while vdthout going on, in order to sketch, and returned to the "Victoria and Albert" by half past four, the boats crowding round us in aU directions ; and when Bertie showed himself the people shouted—" Three cheers for the Duke of Cornwall !" Albert returned a little before seven, much gratified by what he had seen, and bringing home specimens of the serpentine stone. Mount's Bay, Sunday, September 6. A hazy, dull-looking morning, but as calm as it possibly could be. At half past eight o'clock we got into our barge, with Miss Kerr and Lord Spencer, and proceeded without any standard to the little harbor below St, Michaels Mount. Be hind St. Michael's Mount is the little town oiMcir razion, or " Market Jew," which is supposed to have taken its name from the Jews hadng in for mer times trafficked there. We disembarked, and walked up th.Q Mount by a circuitous rugged path, over rocks and turf, and entered the old castle, which is beautifully kept, and must be a nice house to live in, as there are so many good rooms in it. The dining-room, made out of the refectory, Life in the Highlands. 275 is very, pretty: it is surrounded by a frieze repre senting ancient hunting. The chapel is excess ively curious. The organ is much famed : Albert played a little on it, and it sounded very fine. Be low the chapel is a dungeon, where some years ago was discovered the skeleton of a large man without a coffin: the entrance is in the floor of one of the pews. Albert went down with Lord Spencer, and afterward went up with him and Sir James Clark (who, with Lord Palmerston and Col onel Grey, had joined us) to the tower, on the top of Avhich is " St. Michael's chair," which, it is said, betrothed couple run up to, and whoever gets first into the chair wiU have at home the government of the house; and the old housekeeper — a nice, tidy old woman — said many a couple "does go there !" though Albert and Lord Spencer said it was the awkwardest place possible to get at. St. Michaels Mount belongs to Sir J. St. Aubyn. There were several dravdngs there of Mont St. Michael in Normandy, which is very like this one, and was, I believe, inhabited by the same order of monks as this was, i. e., Benedictines. We walked down again, had to step over another boat in order to get into our barge, as the tide was so very low, and returned on board the yacht before ten. 276 Idfe in ihe Highlands. The view from the top of St. Michael's is very beautiful and very extensive, but unfortunately it was too thick and hazy to see it well, A. low ridge of sand separates St. Michaels Mount from Ma/razion at low water, and the sea at high water. From the sand to the summit of the castle is about 250 feet. The chapel was originaUy erect ed, they say, for the use of pUgrims who came here, and it owes its name to a tradition of St, Michael the Archangel having rested on the rock. At half past eleven Lord Spencer read on deck the short morning serdce generaUy read at sea, which only lasted twenty or twenty-five minutes. The aAvning was put up, and flags on the sides ; and aU the officers and sailors were there, as weU as ourselves, A flag was hoisted, as is usual when the service is performed on board ship, and Lord Spencer read extremely weU, Albert made a most beautiful little sketch oiSt. Michaels Mount. Soon after two we left MaumGs Bay. About four we came opposite to some very curious serpentine rocks, between Mount's Bay and LAza/rd Point, and we stopped, that Albert might land. The gentlemen went with him. Lord Spencer soon returned, sajdng that Albert was very anxious I should see the beautiful little cave in these serpentine rocks ; and accordingly I got Idfe in ihe Highlands. 277 into the barge, with the chUdren, and ladies, and Lord Spencer, and we rowed to these rocks, with their caves and little creeks. There were many cormorants and sea-gulls on the rocks. We re turned again, and were soon joined by Albert, who brought many fine specimens which he had picked up. The stone is reaUy beautifuUy marked vdth red and green veins. We proceeded on our course, and reached Falmouth before seven. The fine afternoon was changed to a foggy, dull, cold evening. We have had on board vdth us, since we left Falmouth, Mr. Taylor, mineral agent to the Duchy of Cornwall, a very intelligent young man, married to a niece of Sir Charles Lemon's. Falmouth, Monday, September 7. Immediately after breakfast Albert left me to land and visit some mines. The corporation of Pervryn were on board^ and very anxious to see " The Duke of Cornwall ;" so I stepped out of the paviUon on deck Adth Bertie, and Lord Palmer ston told them that that was " The Duke of Corn wall," and the old mayor oi Pervryn said that " he hoped he would grow up a blessing to his parents and to his country." 278 Idfe in the Highlands, A little before four o'clock we all got into the barge, Adth the two chUdren, and rowed to the "Fairy." We rowed through a literal lane of boats, fuU of people, who had surrounded the yacht ever since early in the morning, and pro ceeded up the river by St, Just's Pool, to the left of which lies Sir C. Lemon's place, and Trefusis, belonging to Lord Clinton. We went up the Truro, which is beautiful — something like the Ta mar, but almost finer, though not so bold as Pen^ tillie Castle and Cothele — ^winding between banks entirely wooded with stunted oak, and fuU of numberless creeks. The prettiest are King Har ry's Ferry and a spot near Tregothnan (Lord Fal mouth's), where there is a beautiful Uttle boat- house, quite in the woods, and on the river, at the the point where the Tregony separates from the Truro, Albert said the position of this boat-house put him in mind of Tell's Chapel in Switzerland. We went a little way up the Tregony, which is most beautiful, vdth high sloping banks, thickly wooded down to the water's edge. Then we turned back and went up the Truro to Malpas, another bend of the river, from whence one can see Truro, the capital of Cornwall. We stopped here a while, as so many boats came out from a little place called Sunny Corner, just below Tru- Idfe in ihe Highlands, 279 ro, in order to see us ; indeed, the whole popula tion poured out on foot and in carts, etc., along the banks, and cheered, and were enchanted when Bertie was held up for them to see. It was a very pretty, gratifying sight. We went straight on to Swan Pool, outside Pendennis Castle, where we got into the barge, and rowed near to the shore to see a net drawn. Mr. Fox, a Quaker, who lives at Falmouth, and has sent us fiowers, fi'uit, and many other things, proposed to put in his net and draw, that we might see aU sorts offish caught, but when it was draAAm there was not one fish ! So we went back to the "Fairy." The water near the shore in Swan Pool is so wonderfully clear that one could count the pebbles. Tuesday, September 8. A wet morning when we rose and breakfasted Adth the chUdren. At about ten o'clock we en tered Fowey, which is situated in a creek much like Da/rtmouth, only not so beautiful, but still very pretty. We got into the barge (leaving the chUdren on board, and also Lord Spencer, who was not quite well), and landed at Fowey with our ladies and gentlemen, and Mr. Taylor, whom we had brought with us from Falmouth. We got 280 Idfe in the Highlands, into our carriage with the ladies, the gentlemen foUoAdng in others, and drove through some of the narrowest streets I ever saw in England, and up perpendicular hUls in the streets — it reaUy quite alarmed one; but we got up and through them quite safely. We then drove on for a long way on bad and narrow roads, higher and higher up, commanding a fine and very extensive view of the very hUly country of Cornwall, its hUls covered with fields, and intersected by hedges. At last we came to one field where there was no road whatever ; but we went down the hill quite safely, and got out of the carriage at the top of another, where, surrounded by woods, stands a circular ruin, covered Adth ivy, of the old castle of Restormel, belonging to the Duchy of Corn wall, and in which the last Earl of CornwaU lived in the thirteenth century. It was very pictur esque from this point. We visited here the Restormel mine, belonging also to the Duchy of Cornwall. It is an iron mine, and you go in on a level. Albert and I got into one of the trucks and were dragged in by miners, Mr. Taylor walking be hind us. The miners wear a curious woolen dress, with a cap like this : Idfe in ihe Highlands, 281 and the dress thus : «^s. sticks were stuck and they generaUy |f^ along the sides'' of have a candlestick ^y the mine, and those in front of the cap. ml who did not drag This time the candle- ^^-'*~' or push the truck carried lights. Albert and the gentlemen wore miners' hats. There was no room for any one to pass between the trucks and the rock, and only just room enough to hold up one's head, and not always that. It had a most curious effect, and there was something unearthly about this lit-up cavem-Uke place. We got out and scrambled a little way to see the veins of ore, and Albert knocked off some pieces; but, in general, it is bloAvn by gunpowder, being so hard. The miners seemed so pleased at seeing us, and are intelligent, good people. It was quite dazzling when we came into daylight again. We then got into our carriage and passed through the small town of Lostwithiel, where an address was presented to us, and then we passed through Mr. Agar Robarts's Park, which reminded one of Cothele. We returned by the same road tUl near Fowey, when we went through some of the narrowest lanes I almost ever drove through, and so fearfully stony. We drove along high above the river to Place, belonging to Mr. Treffry, 282 Idfe in ihe Highlands. which has been restored according to draAdngs in his possession, representing the house as it was in former times. A lady of that name defended the house against the French during the absence of her husband, in the fourteenth or fifteenth cen tury. The old gentleman showed us aU over the house, and into an unfinished hall, lined with mar ble and porphyry, all of which came from Corn wall, We then walked down to the place of em barkation and proceeded at once to the yacht. Mr. Taylor deserved the greatest credit for all the arrangements. He and his father are what are caUed "Adventurers" of the mine. Osborne, Wednesday, September 9. We got up about seven o'clock and found we had just passed The Needles. Visit to the Lakes op Killaenet. / Tuesday, August 27, 1861. At eleven o'clock we all started in our own so ciable, and another of our carriages, and on ponies, Idfe in ihe Highlands. 283 for Ross Castle, the old ruin which was a celebra ted strong-hold, and from which the Kenmare fam Uy take their name. Here there was an immense crowd and a great many boats. We got into a very handsome barge of eight oars — beautifully rowed — ^Lord Castlerosse steering. The four chil dren, and Lady Churchill, Lady Castlerosse, and Lord GranvUle were with us. We rowed first round Lnnisf alien Island and some way up the Lower Lake. The view was magnificent. We had a slight shower, which alarmed us all, from the mist which overhung the mountains ; but it suddenly cleared away, and be came very fine and very hot. At a quarter to one we landed at the foot of the beautiful hUl of Glena, where on a small sloping laAvn there is a very pretty little cottage. We walked about, though it was overpoweringly hot, to see some of the splendid views. The trees are beautiful — oak, birch, arbutus, holly, yew — all growing doAvn to the water's edge, intermixed vdth heather. The hills, rising abruptly from the lake, are completely wooded, which gives them a different character to those in Scotland, though they often reminded me of the dear Highlands. We returned to the little cottage, where the quantity of midges and the smeU of peat made us think oi Alt-na-Giuthasach. 284 Idfe in ihe Highlands, Up stairs, from Lady Castlerosse's little room, the view was toward a part of the Lower Lake, the outline of which is rather low. We lunched, and afterward re-embarked, and then took that most beautiful row up the rapid, under the Old Weir Bridge, through the channel which connects the two lakes, and which is very intricate and narrow. Close to our right, as we were going, we stopped under the splendid hUl of the Eagle's Nest to hear the echo oi a bugle, the sound of which, though blown near by, was not heard. We had to get out near the Weir Bridge to let the empty boats be puUed up by the men. The sun had come out and lit up the really magnificent scenery splen didly, but it was most oppressively hot. We wound along till we entered the Upper Lake, which opened upon us Adth aU its high hiUs— the highest. The Reeks, 3400 feet high — and its islands and points covered Adth splendid trees — such ar butus (quite large trees), vdth yews, making a beautiful foreground. We turned into a smaU bay or creek, where we got out and walked a short way in the shade, and up to where a tent was placed, just opposite a waterfaU caUed Derry cono- chy, a lovely spot, but terribly infested by midges. In this tent was tea, fruit, ice, cakes, and every thing most tastefully arranged. We just took Life in the Highlands. 285 some tea, which was very refreshing in the great heat of this relaxing climate. The vegetation is quite that of a jungle — ^ferns of aU kinds, and shrubs and trees — aU springing up luxuriantly. We entered our boats and went back the same way we came, admiring greatly the beauty of the scenery, and this time went down the rapids in the boat. No boats except our own had followed us beyond the rapids, but below them there were a great many, and the scene was very animated, and the people very noisy and enthusiastic. The Irish always give that peciUiar shrUl shriek, un- Uke any thing one ever hears any where else. Wednesday, August 28. At a quarter past eleven we started on a most beautiful drive, of which I annex the route. We drove Adth Mrs. Herbert and Bertie in our socia ble, driven fi'om the box by Wagland;* and, * My coachman since 1857 ; and a good, zealous servant. He entered the Royal service in 1831, and rode as postillion for seventeen years. His father has been thirty-two years porter in the Royal Mews at Windsor, and is now seventy- five years old ; and has been sixty years in the service. His grandfather was also in the Rqyal service, having en tered it in 1'788; and his daughter is nursery-maid to the 286 Idfe in the Highlands, though the highest mountains were unfortunately occasionaUy enveloped in mist, and we had slight showers, we were enchanted with the extreme beauty of the scenery. The peeps of the lake ; the splendid woods full of the most magnificent arbutus, which in one place form, for a few yards, an avenue under which you drive, with the rocks, which are very peculiar, all made it one of the finest drives we had ever taken. Turning up by the' AoUage and going round, the Tore mountain reminded us of Scotland — of the woods above Abergeldie, of Craig Daign and Craig Clunie, It was so fine. We got out at the top of the Tore Waterfall and walked down to the foot of it. We came home at half past one. At four we started for the boats, quite close by. The Muckross Lake is extremely beautiful; at the beginning of our expedition it looked dark and severe in the mist and showers which kept coming on, just as it does in the Highlands. Mr. Herbert steered. Our girls, Mrs. Herbert, Lady Churchill, and Lord GranviUe were in the boat vdth us. The two boys went in a boat rowed by gentlemen, and the rest in two other boats. At Mr. and Mrs. Her bert's request I christened one of the points which Prince of Wales's children. Four generations, therefore, have served the Royal Family. Idfe in ihe Highlands, 287 inins into the lake vdth a bottle of wine, Albert holding my arm when we came close by, so that it was most successfuUy smashed. When we emerged from under Brickeen Bridge we had a fine Adew of the Lower Lake and of the scenery of yesterday, which rather puzzled me, seeing it from another ^om^ de vue. At Benson's Point we stopped for some time, merely roAdng about backward and forward, or remaining sta tionary, watching for the deer (aU this is a deer forest as weU as at Glena), which we expected the dogs would find and bring doAvn into the water. But in vain : we waited tUl past six, and no deer came. The evening had completely cleared and became quite beautiful; and the effect of the numbers of boats full of people, many Adth little fiags, roAving about in every direction and cheer ing and shouting, Ut up by the evening light, was charming. At Da/rby's Ganrden the shore was densely crowded, and many of the women in their blue cloaks waded into the river, holding their clothes up to their knees. We were home by seven o'clock, haAdng again a sUght sprinkling of rain. THE END. YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 9002 03201 5217 * w:^^' #x., ^ .'•rV \»*.-.' ¦K „