YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY flISTORY AND TOPOGRAPHY CITY OF YOEK; EMBBACINQ A GENERAL REVIEW OF THE EARLY HISTORY OF GREAT BRITAIN, AND A GENERAL HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY OF YORK. ¦m IN TWO VOLUMES.— Vol. I. BEVERLEY: PRINTED FOR THE PUBLISHERS, BY JOHN GREEN, MARKET PLACE. 1867. PREFACE The more than usual amount of approval with which the recently published Topographical History of York and the East Eiding was received by the general body of the subscribers, as well as by the press of the County, en couraged the publishers'to extend their labours to the interesting «,nd highly important district of North Yorkshire ; and they now feel a just pride in being in a position to state, that the amount of patronage which has been accorded to them in that locality is perfectly satisfactory, and flattering in the extreme. It, too, must be pleasurable to the inhabitants of the North Riding — an almost purely agricultural district — to know that amongst them is a very large number of patrons of antiquarian and topographical literature — exclusive even of the higher classes. It is proposed to supply a good History and Topography of York and the North Riding of Yorkshire, in two volumes, written in a popular style to suit all classes, and as free as possible of the technical terms, legal verbiage, and classical dicta, by which the compilations of many learned authors are ren dered so insufferably dull to the generality of readers ; that is, to those who are not deeply versed in antiquarian lore, and whose limited education precludes them revelling in the literary delights of the classic regions. The learned classes will easily understand why the present work contains so much plain English, and so little of that quaint Saxon dialect, with which historians are wont to crowd their works: in the following pages, the most siinple and common phrases and quotations in Latin are rendered in English, so that " those that run may read." This plan was adopted in the above- mentioned History of York and the East Riding, and appears to have met with a general approbation. The highly respectable editor of a York news paper — himself a historian — ^in a review of that production says, "The work does the authors infinite credit, for nothing of public interest in the IV PEBFACB. sphere marked out, has escaped their notice." Another reviewer observes— " The authors possess a clear and pleasing style of writing, and in a work intended for aU classes, have abstained from the controversial discussion of vexed questions, as altogether foreign to the object of this work." A third says of it " There is a good deal in these volumes which goes far to remove them from that mere twaddle and compilation which, in nine cases out of ten, is the grand feature in local histories. It is not often that we have to note the appearance of a work like the present," Whilst a fourth reviewer, after declaring that the authors " are deserving of the highest praise," &c., adds, that " a more generally useful and interesting work " than it, " could not occupy the library table of a Yorkshire country gentleman, or the fire side shelves of a farmer, fond of local reminiscences." If the History, &c., of York and the East Riding, merited such encomiums as these, the first volume of the present work (which is now submitted with much deference) must be worthy of some consideration, seeing that it is (necessarily) in great part at least, a revised and corrected edition of the first volume of that history. And here it may be proper to observe that though the title of the publishers firm has been changed since the publication of the work for the East Riding, from "J. J. Sheahan and T. Whellan," to " T. Whellan and Co.," yet no change whatever has taken place in the modm operandi — the staff employed on both works being the same. The arrangement of the first volume embraces a general review of the early history of Great Britain, and the ancient Kindom of Northumbria ; a general history and description of the County of York; a history of the venerable City of York, with its magnificent Cathedral, and numerous anti quities ; and a history of the time honoured Borough of Scarborough," the Queen of English Watering places." The second volume will contain concise histories of all the Market Towns', and a topographical survey of all the parishes, villages. Sec, in the North Riding of the County. Beverley, 1857. |nbt^ ia ^al I. Abbess Hilda, 88 Abbeys — See Monasteries Aborigines of Great Britain, 37; their religion, 40 Agricultural Statistics of England, 7 ; So cieties and Farmers' Clubs, 14 Ainsty Wapentake, 1 Aire River, 22 Albion, derivation of, 39 Alcuin, 290, 312, 477, 661 Aldborough, the ancient Imrium, 42, 306 Aldby, near Stamford Bridge, 68, 83 AldMd, King, buried at Driffield, 91 Alfred the Great divides the Kingdom, 97, 115 Ancient Britons submit to the Romans, and adopt their customs, 53 Anglo-Danish period, 94 Anglo-Saxon Churches, 419 Anglo-Saxon period, 68 Anglo-Saxon Kings — Alfred the Great, 97 ; Athelstan, 98 ; Edmund, 99 ; Edgar, 100 ; Ethelred 101 ; Edward the Confessor, 103, Harold, 103 Anlaffs fleet enters the Humber, 98 Antiquities of Yorkshire, 24 Arbor-Low (Peak of Derby), 49 Archbishops of York, list of, 383 Archbishops, annals of the, 387 Archdiocese of York, 375 Aries, Council of, 77 Armies, ancient mode of assembling, 134 Askeme Springs, 24 Athelstan, King, establishes the Kingdom; his death, 98 Atmospherical phenomena, 273 Augustine, St., created Archbishop of Can terbury, 80 A woman crucified by her daughter, 257 Aysgarth Force, 19 Barbarous customs of the English, 148 Barony, description of, 116 Bathing places, principal, 17 Battle Abbey, Roll of, 110 Battles — Battle Bridge, 45 ; near Doncas ter and York, 70, 97, 102, 313 ; Mount Badon, 71 ; Hatfield and Denisbum, 85 Winmoor, 88; Bromford, 98; Chester, 99 ; Fulford and Stamford Bridge, 104 Senlao, commonly called Hastings, 108 York, 120 ; near York, 121 ; on Cuton Moor (" Battle of the Standard "), 123 at Falkirk, 132; Bannookbum, 134 Myton-on-Swale, 136 ; Boroughbridge, 188 ; Bylaud Abbey, 139 ; NeviU's Cross, 142 ; Bramham Moor, 140 ; St. Albans, 150; Northampton, 151; Wakefield 153 ; Barnet Heath, 153 ; Towton Field 155 ; Danesmoor, 164 ; Barnet, 159 Tewkesbury, 166 ; Bosworth Field, 169 Stoke, 172; Flodden Field, 178 ; Kine ton, or Edge Hill, 334 ; Tadeaster and Wetherby,23S; Selby,239; and Marston Moor, 244 Bede, the Venerable, 76 Bedern, derivation of, 471 Beheading in England, first instance of, 121 BeUs, invention and use of, 430 Bemioia, Kingdom of, 71 Beverley and Barmston Drainage, 13 Beverley, King Charles I. at, 232 Bible, first complete version published in England, 178; indiscriminate use of, condemned, 189 Big Ben of Westminster (bell), 431 Bishops committed to the Tower, 224 Black Hamilton, 10 Boadicea, Queen of the Iceni, 45 Boroughbridge burnt by the Scots, 135 Bramham Craggs, 24 Bridges of stone first built in England, 364 Bridlington Chalybeate Spring, 25 Brigantes, the metropolis of, 42; Cartis- maudua, their Queen, 45 ; Venusius be, comes their chief, 45 Britain, derivation of, 39 INDEX. British Association, 640 British Kings— Arthur, 71, 77, 311; Am- brosius, 77; Uter, 70, Lucius, 76 ; Vor- tigem, 68 ; Oohta and Abisa, 71 ; Ebraucus, the supposed founder of York, 289 British Period, 87 British Eemains — tumuli, barrows, crom lechs, &a., 46 and 47; corslet of gold found in a barrow, 51; ums, canoes, war chariots, &c., 52 Bruce, David, taken prisoner, 143 Burgundy, Duchess of, instigates rebellion, 171, 173 Calder, Eiver, 32 Caledonians, 39, 61 Camp of Refuge, 123 Canals of Yorkshire, 28 Canute's reproof to his courtiers, 101 Capitation tax, 143 CaracaUa murders Geta, 58 Caractacus, Chief of the Silures, 45 Cassiterides, or the Tin Islands, 38 Castles or Fortresses, ancient, 34; at Bam- borough, 87 ; Aldby, 83 ; York, 98, 337 ; number of existing remains of Castles, 343 Cathedral of York, 415 Cathedrals burnt, 122 Cattle, Teeswater and Holderness, breed of, 8 Caves of Yorkshire, 25 Oaxton introduces Printing, 177 Celtic sepulchres and monuments, 46 Centenarians in England, 10 Chalk formation on the Wolds, extent of, U Chantries, how founded, 181 Christian Festivals, originof, 417 Christianity introduced into Britain, 74; re-introduoed by St. Augustine, 79 CivU government, titles, &c., 383 Classes, distinction of, preserved by Wil Ham the Conqueror, 1 13 Cleveland, hiUs and vale of, 4 Clifford's Tower at York, 338 Cock Fighting, 356 Cock, BiveE, 1 57 Coffee introduced into England, 364 Commerce of Yorkshirfl, 18 Coustautine the Great bom, 59, 393 ; as sumes the imperial purple at York, and embraces Christianity, 60 Constantias,Emperor, resides atYork, 59 ; his supposed tomb, 537 Copper Mines, 9 Coronation stone and chair, 131, 146 Corpus Christi Plays, 593 Costume of the English in the reign of the Confessor, 103 Courts of Exchequer, &c., removed from York, 133 ; reinstated in York for six months, 135 Cromwell, Oliver, at the siege of York, 240 ; his dealii, 259 ; his effigies burnt at York, 261 Danes invade England, 94; their massacre on St. Brice's Day, 100 Dance Maine, 51 Danish fleet enters the Humber, 119 Danish Kings-^Ringsidge, 97 ; Eric, 100 ; Sweyne, 101, 313; Canute, 101, 313; Harold and Hardicanute, 101 Deluge, the Universal, 83 Derwent, Eiver, 22 DevU's Arrows, 34 DevU's Den (Cromlech), 51 Diefyr, or Deira, Engdom of, 71 Deira, derivation of the name, 451 Discharged livings, meaning of, 381 Dissolution of Monasteries, 179, 193 Disputes about the Festival of Easter, 89 Domesday Book, its origin, &o., 113 Don, River, 23 Drainage of the carrs and marshes, 13 Drake, the historian, 666 Dreadful executions of the nobility, 138 Dropping WeU at Enaresborough, 25 Druids — ^their sacrifices, 40; their civil government, 42 ; they oppose the Roman invaders, 42 Druidical Circles, 49 Ducking or CucMng Stool, 333 Dwarf Rose in the Field of Towton, 159 Eastern Moorlands, 3 East Riding of Yorkshire — situation of, 10 ; climate of 13 ; principal towns of, 10; is famous for breeding horses, 14; its mineral productions, 15; marshes and warp land, 16 Ecclesiastical Architecture, 419 Egbert unites the Kingdoms of the Hep tarchy, 93 j Ely, Bishop of, heads an army, 136 England, the Island of Saints, 81 England divided into parishes, &c,, ll6 England submits to the Conqueror, 122 Ermine Street (Roman Eoad), 65 Esk, River, 23 Fairs, ancient, 354 Vlt Fair Rosamond, 401 Famines, 134, 136 Flamborough Head, 11 Fleming, Nicholas, Mayor of York, 1 36 Flood, great, of Eipponden, 366 Foss, iSver, 33 Fosseway (Roman Road), 65 Franchise of Yorkshire, 35 Free Chapels, how founded, 181 Fridstol, or freed stool, ancient, 383 GalUee Porches in Churches, 383 Galtres, ancient Forest of, 33 Garraby Beacon, 11 Gascoigne, Chief Justice, refuses to pass sentence of death on Archbishop Scrope, 147 Gaveston, Piers de, 133 General History of Yorkshire, 37 Gent, Thomas, the historian, 667, 785 Geoffrey Plantagenet, Archbishop of York, 129 Geoffrey of Monmouth, the historian, 289 Geology of Yorkshire, 36 Giggleswick Soar, 35 Glass windows first introduced, 4X6, 454 Glo'ster, Richard, Duke of; is made Pro tector, and crowned King, 167 Goodmanham, Pagan Temple at, 84 Gothic Architecture, 430 Gregory the Great, Pope — his character, 79; he resolves on the conversion of England, 80 ; appoints Sees, 388 Guilds or Fraternities, 193 Guisborough M.ineral Spring, 25 Guy Fawkes, a Yorkshireman, 664 Hadrian, Emperor, arrives in Britain, 53 ; resides at York, 391 Hadrian's Great Wall, 54 Hainault soldiery massacred, 141 Harold II. crowned, 103; his death and burial, 109 Harrald Hadrada invades England, 104 Harrogate Springs, 34 Hebrew language, the oldest, 37 Hengist and Horsa invited to Britain, 68 Hengist defeats the Picts and Soots, 75 Hermit of Knaresborough, 663 Hide of land, description of, 116 High Street (Eomao Eoad), 64 Hinguarand Hubba destroy the Holder ness coast, 96 Holderness District, 13 Holderness, Wasting Cliffs of, 10 Holy Island, 86 Hornsea Mere, 13 Horrible Brutalities of the Danes, 96 Horse Racing, 658 HuU, River, 31 Hiilpit aud Hunpit holes, 35 Humber, River, 30 Hurtlepot, Ginglepot, and Donk, Caves, 25 IcknUd Street (Roman Road), 65 Independents, the, rob the Churches, 256 Indulgences, definition of, 418 Inhabitants of Yorkshire, their character, 26 Instance of fiUal affection, 336 Insurrection in the north, 163 Insurrection of the northern Catholics, 301 Insurrection in the East Riding, &c., 194 Insurrection of the old Parliamentary fac tion, 361 Ireland peopled, 38 Jack Straw aud Wat Tyler's rebellion, 144 Jenkins, Henry, 9 Jews, great massacre of, 126 ; their num ber in England, 860 Jones, Paul, the Anglo-American bucca neer, 370 Judith, Countess of Albemarle, 131 Julius CsEsar, invasion of, 43 King, origin of tbe name, 83, 357 King Arthur defeats the Saxons ; his mur der, and the discovery of his remains, 71,' 77 King Edwin's daughter baptized by St. Paulinus, 83 King Edwin baptized by St. Paulinus, and his glorious reign, 84; his death, 85 King Richard I. — his coronation, 136 ; his imprisonment in Austria, 128 King John visits the north, 139 Kings Alexander I. and II. of Scotland married at York, 130 King Edward I. at York, 1 31 ; his death, 133 King Edward II., 133; his murder, 140 King Edward III. — his glorious reign and marriage, 140 King Henry II. — his heart lately sent to England, 728 King Bichard II. — his accession, 143 ; de position and murder, 146 King Henry IV. — his accession, .146; and death, 149 King Henry V. visits York and Beverley, 140; his death, 150 vm INDEX. King Henry VI. — his character, 150 ; faUs into the hands of the Yorkists, 153; again made King, 164; confined in the Tower, and murdered, 166 King Edw. IV. proclaimed, 154; crowned, 159 ; again crowned, 161 ; his imprison ment and escape, 164; his death and family, 167 King Edward V. murdered in the Tower, 167 King Eichard III., crowned, 167 ; slain at the battle of Bosworth Field, 169 King Henry VII. — his marriage, &c., 169 King Henry VIU., 177; he receives the titie of Defender of the Faith, 178 ; visits Yorkshire, 186 ; his death, 191 King Edward VI., 193 ; his death, 195 King James VI.'s accession, 205 ; his death, 311 King Charles I. — history of his disastrous reign, 311; is refused admittance into HuU, 236 ; his person delivered up by the Soots, 356; is tried and executed, 358 King Charles II. proclaimed, 360; his death, 263 King James II. — ^his accession, 363; his death, 365 Kits-Coty House, 47 Leland, the Antiquary, 333 Lead, Copper, and Iron Mines, 9 Levellers, the, their fanaticism, 356, 357 Library of York Cathedral, 476 Lindisfarne, Isle of, 86 ; Church destroyed by the Danes, 98 liturgy (new) compiled, 194 Londesborough, King Edwin's residence, 84 Long Meg and her Daughters, 48 Long Parliament, the, 333 Lothbric, a Danish General, legend of, 95 Malham Cove, 25 Malo Cross, 66 Mausions„ancient, 34 Marble Quarries, 9 Mark, value of, 139 Mary Queen of Scots, 304 Massacre of the Jews, 136 Maxima Csesariensis, 53 Mechanics' Institute, Yorkshire Union of, 642 Mile, derivation of, 54 Mineral Springs in Yorkshire, 34 Minster, derivation of the name, 433 Minstrels or Gleemen, 348 Mistietoe, a sacred plant with the Drnida, 40 Monasteries, origin of, 486 Monasteries, suppression of, 179 ; annual revenues, 183 Monastic Institutions in Yorkshire, 34 Abbeys — ^York, 491 ; Scarborough, 703 Alien Priories or Cells, 487 Friaries — ^York, 508 ; Scarborough, 704 Nunneries — ^York, 513, 574 Pnoms— York, 506, 513 Bospitals — York, 487, 514; Scarborough, 709 Mountains in Yorkshire — Roseberry Top ping, 3, 4 ; Black HamUton, 3, 10 ; Bot- ton Head, Nine Standards, Shunner FeU, Water Cragg, &c., 3 ; Stow Brow, 4; Howardian Hills, 4; Pennygant, Warnside, or Whernside, and Ingle- borough, 5, 17 Multangular Tower at York, 333 Murray, Lindley, 671 Nennius, the historian, 389 Newcastle, Earl of, created a Marquis, 238 Nice and Sardica, CouncUs of, 77 Nidd, River, 33 Norman Period, 107 Northern Assize Circuit, 25 North of England divided into Shires, &e., 101, 118 Northallerton burnt by the Scots, 135 North Riding — Situation and extent, 3; principal towns, 3 ; climate, 5 ; soU, 5 ; agricultural and woodlands, 6; cattle, sheep, and horses, 8 ; minerals and lead mines, 9 ; longevity of its inhabi tants, 9. Northumbria, Earls of, 102 Northumberland, Earl of, murdered, 178 Northumbrian Kingdom, 81 ; is conquered by the Danes, 97; extinction of the Northumbrian dynasty, 100 ; is divided into shires, 118 Octavius crowned at York, 60 Oswald's Cross, 86 Ouse, Eiver, 30 ; etymology of, 290 Pagan Temple profaned by Coifi, 83 ¦PaU, or PaUium, of the Archbishops, 389 Parisi, tribe of, 43 Parliament first held in York, 125 ; deri vation of the name, 125 ; other early ' Parliaments, 131, 133, 138, 142 Parson, meaning of the name, 483 PauUnus created Archbishop of York 80 INDEX. IX PauUnus, see St. Paulinus Penda, King of Mercia, 85 Pentateuch, the, 671 PestUence, caUed the " Black Death," 143 Petuaria and Portus Felix (British Towns), 43 Pews in Churches, 530 Phoenician Merchants visit the Tin Is lands, 38 Picts and Scots, 61 Pilgrimage of Grace, insurrection, 188 Plague, the, 145, 209, 261 Pedestrianism extraordinary, 680 Plays, sacred, 593 Pope Adrian sends Legates to England, in A.D. 785, 92 Population of England armed, 134 Population of several towns in the reign of Edward HI., 143 Population, &o., of Yorkshire, 3 Ports of Yorkshire, 18 Price of provisions in the reign of Edward II., 184 Price of provisions in the reign of Eichard in., 168 Price of provisions in 1583, 178 Price of provisions in 1644, 343 Prince Charles Stiiart, the Pretender, 267 Prince Eupert, 341 Post Office Statistics, 638 Prince WiUiam de Hatfield, 469 Printing Press, the first at York, 177 Protestants and CathoUcs executed for heresy, 189 Providential escapes, 696 Puritans, the, 300 Quakers, origin of the name, 568 Quarter Sessions, where held, 36 Queen Anne's Bounty, 360 Queen EUzabeth's accession, 199; 'het death, 304 , Queen Henrietta, 337 ; her death, 359 Queen Margaret's adherence to her party, 160 ; her captivity and death, 166 Queen Mary's accession, 196; her mar riage, 197; her death, 199 Queen Victoria's visits to York, 376; to Kingston-upon-HuU, 381 RaUways of Yorkshire, 33, 648 Ravenspume, Bolingbroke lands at, 145 ; Edward IV. debarks at, 165 RebelUon, the, of 1745, 367 Rebellion in Yorkshire, 171 Rebellion of Wyat, 196 Rectories, meaning of, 380 Reformatory Institutions, 654 Reformation in Eeligion, 179 ; new liturgy compUed, 193 Eeform BUl, effects of, in Yorkshire, 25 Eeligious edifices profaned during the Commonwealth, 458 Eeligious Houses, 24 ; suppression of, 179, 193 Eichmond, Earl of, lands at MUford-Ha- ven, 169 Eiding, origin of the term, 114 Elvers of Yorkshire, 19 to 33 EoUrich Stones, 48 Roman Invasion, 43 Eoman Period, 53 Eoman Colonies, Stipendiary Towns, Latin Cities, 63 Eoman government of Britain, 61 Eomans, the, relinquish Britain, 61 Eoman modes of sepulture, 57, 398 Eoman sepulchral and other remains, 24, 293 Eoman Eoads, 64 to 67 Eoman Stations, 67, 83 Eoman Encampments, 68 Eosebeny Topping, 4 Sanctuaries abolished, 195 Sanctuary, the privUege of, 381 Savings' Banks, capital deposited in them, iu 1856, 728 Saxons, the — their origin, manners, &c., 68 ; invited to Britain by Vortigem, 69 ; their conquest of the Britons, 73 ; their reUgion, 78; tities of honour, 115; names of divisions of land, 114. Saxon Heptarchy, 73; how composed, 74 ; extinction of, 93 Saxon Kings — Ida, Ella or Alia, Ethelfrid, and Edwin, 81; Oswald, 85; Oswy, -Oswin, and Oswio, 87; Alchfrid, 89; Egfrid, 90 ; Aldfrid, 91 ; Osred, Ceonred, Cffilwulf, 91; Oswulf, Mol-EdUwold, Alchred, Alfwold, and Ethelbred, 93; Osbald, Eardulf, and Egbert, 93 ; Os- bert and EUa, 94; Egbert, 97 Saxon Eemains at York, 310 Scarborough burnt by the Norwegians, 104 Scarborough besieged by the nobles, 138 : burnt by the Scots, 135 Scarborough Castie, attempt to seize it, 197 Scarborough, history of, 673 Scarborough Warning, 19-7, 687. (For the meaning of the expression, see the Additions, <&c., at page xvi.) Scots pass from Ireland to Sootiand, 38 b INDEX. Scotiand, ancient inhabitants of, 61 Scots, their barbarous invasions, 138 Scottish Regalia removed to England, 181 Scottish League and Covenant, 317 Scrope's, Archbishop, rebeUion, 146 ; his execution, 147 Sea coast of North and East Sidings, 16 Seamer, insurrection at, 104 Sepulchral (called Druids') Circles, 49' Severus, Emperor, arrives in Britain — ^his conquests and death, 56 ; iuneral obse quies at York, 57 Severus HUl, near York, 57 Ship-money, tax imposed, 217 Sieges— Portsmouth, 333; Hull, 339; York commences, 340 ; ends, 351, Pon- tefract, 352; Sheffield, 254; Scarbo rough, 354; Bolton, Skipton, and Helmsley, 355 ; CarUsle, 368 Simnel, Lambert, an impostor, is pro claimed King in Dublin, 171 Sistuntii, tribe of, 43 Siward, Earl of Northumbria, 103 Sixth Conquering Legion, 53 Skipton burnt by the Scots, 135 Skirlaw, Bishop of Durham, 411 Spencer, Hugh de, favourite of Edward, IIL, 187 Spring tides at Hull, 20 Spurn Promontory or Point, 10 St. Ceadda, or Chad, Archbishop of York, 890 St. Edward the Confessor, 103 St. Edwin (King), St. Ethelburge (Queen) 83, 388, 390 St. John of Beverley, 394 St. Oswald (King), 85 St. Oswald, Archbishop of York, 398 St. PauUnus, Archbishop of York, 83, 388 St. Thomas of Canterbury — ^ridiculous trial of, 187 St. WUfrid, Archbishop of York, 89, 891 St. WUliam, Archbishop of York, 399 Staith, origin of the name, 370 Sterne, Laurence, 667 Stonehenge on SaUsbury Plain, 49 Stoupe Brow, or Stow Brow, 4 Street, derivation of the word, 673 Stuarts, the last of the, 415 Sunk Island recovered from the Humber, 11,16 Swale, River, 19; St. Paulinus baptizes immense numbers in it, 19 ; is caUed the Jordan of England, 80 Sweating Sickness, 195 Sweyn's Danish fleet enters the Humber, 101 Synods held in Northumbria, (a.d. 786) 92 Tees, Eiver, 19 Temple of BeUona at York, 292, 416 Temple of Serapis at York, 295 Theodorus, Archbishop of Britain, 90 Thirty-nine Articles, the, pubUshed, 300 Thornton Force and Scar, 35 Thrave, meaning of, 163 Thurston, Archbishop of York, 133 Tithings, why named, 114 Tithes, origin of, 378 Tonnage and Poundage levied, 214 Tosti, Earl of Northumbria, 103 Tosti's fleet enters the Humber, 108 Tournaments at York, 181, 168 Tournament between two EngUsh and two foreign Knights, 148 Turpin, the highwayman, 513 Tyler's, Wat, rebeUion, 144 Ure, or Yore, Eiver, 19 Valor Ecclesiasticus, or Liber Regb (King's Books), 518 Vales of York, Derwent, Cleveland, &a., i Vicarages, origin of, 879 Voluntii, tribe of, 43 Vortimer defeats the Saxons, 70 Wade's Causeway, 66 Wages of Workmen in the 14th century, 411 Walling Fen and Bishop-soil commons, 14 Wall of Antoninus, or Graham's Dyke, 53 Waltheof, Earl of Northumbria, 103, 120 1 Wapentake, origin of the term, 114 Warbeck, PerHn, an impostor, 1 74 ; is pro claimed King, by the titie of RicharjH ' - rv., 175 ; and is executed for treason 176 : Warp Land, 15 Wanrick, the great Earl of, 163, 165 Wars of the Roses, 150 War, Great Civil, cause and progress of, 311 to 358 Wastes of Yorkshire, 18 WaterfaUs of Yorkshire, 35 Watiing Street (Roman Road), 65 Wayland Smith's Cave, 47 Weathercote Cave, 85 Wesley, Eev. John, 547 West Eiding — situation andprincipal towns of, 17; soU, minerals, and mantrfactorea, 18 Western Moorlands, 5 Winter Solstice— a Druidical festival, 41 INDEX. XI Wharfe, Eiver, 32 William Duke of Normandy determines to invade England, 103; prepares to do so, 107; is sumamed the Conqueror, 110; his harsh treatment of the EngUsh, 112 Wolds of Yorkshire, 11; soUof, 13 ; rabbit- warrens and sheep-walks, 14 Wold distiict, extent of, 11 Yordas Cave, 75 Yorkshire — situation and Eidings of, 1; area and population of, 2; Wolds and Moorlands of, 8 ; Carrs and Levels of. 13; agriculture of, 13; wastes of, 18; ports of, 18 ; commerce of, 18 ; geology of, 26 ; general history of, 36 ; how di vided after the Conquest, 118 ; is famed for its battie fields, 313 Yorkshire, Earl of, 383 Yorkshire Agricultural Society, 15 Yorkshire Witch, the 374 Yorkshire, places in, that have given title to Peers, or have been the capital resi dences of Barons, 386 York, Dukes of, 388 York, Earl of, 383 Yule log, the origin of, 41 ^\it Cxtg 0f toK. PAGE York becomes the Eoman Station, Eboracum 53 Sixth Conquering Legion 53, 63 City besieged by the Britons 56 Emperor Severus resides at York . . 56 His death and funeral obsequies. .57, 293 Caracsdla murders Geta and his friends 58 Carausius, a Briton, proclaimed Em peror, and his murder 58 Death of the Emperer Constantius . 59 Constantine the Great — arrives, as sumes the imperial purple at York, and embraces Christianity 60 York the capital of Deira. 71 King Arthur celebrates the first Christmas festival at York 77, 313 York the capital of Northumbria . . 81 Bong Edwin baptized at York .... 84 York seized by the Danes, and hor rible sufferings of the inhabitants 96 Siward, Earl of Northumbria, dies at York 102 Tbe City taken by the Norwegians 104 Is the rallying point of the North- umbers 11 1 The citizens submit to WUUam the Conqueror 119 City re-taken by the English and •» Danes, and partly burnt by accident 119 Is besieged and burnt by the Con queror 121 Is again burnt (accidentaUy) in 1 1 37 123 TAGS First English Parliament held here 135) 319 The City risen to eminence 126 Great massacre of the Jews .... 136, 319 Their horrid fate at York 127 Temporal and spiritual power united 139 King John's visit 139 Henry III. attends a convocation, and Alexander I. of Scotiand is married here, 130 Alexander II. of Scotland married here 130 Visit of Edward 1 131 York a maritime town 133 ParUaments held here, 131, 132, 138, 143 Suburbs of the City burnt by the Scotch 136 Several Barons executed at York . . 138 Court and camp of Edward III. at York 140 His marriage at York 141 Prince Wm. de Hatfield buried at York 143 Dreadftil affray with the Hainaulters 140 Richard II. confers the titie of Lord Mayor, and presents the Mace and Cap of Maintenance 145 Dreadful pestilence 145 Courts removed fiom London to York .: 132,135 Henry IV. visits the City of York . . 148 Henry V.'s visit 149 Edward IV. visits York 159 INDEX. PAGE Is crowned here • 161 Is again at York 166 Prince Edward knighted here .... 168 Henry vn. at York 170 Rebels- attempt to seize him 173 Visit of the Princess Margaret .... 176 York one of the staple towns 177 Churches of York in the time of Henry V 180 Visit of Henry VIII 186 Execution of the Earl of Northum berland and others 203 Visits of James VI 306, 210 Visits of his Queen and chUdren . . 209 The Plague at York 209 Horse race on the river Ouse 210 Visits of Charles 1 216, 318 He holds a Council at the Deanery . 331 Fixes his head-quarters here 334 Great meeting on Heworth Moor . . 232 Queen Henrietta at York 238 Siege of York commences 240 St. Mary's Tower 241,. 337, 479 Sun-ender of the City 350 Is dismanfled of its garrison 357 CromweU's visit 259 Old Jenkins at York Assizes 359 Charles II. prodaimed, and Crom well's effigy burnt at York 360, 361 Visit of James, Duke of York 261 Lamps first hung up here 263 Outrages on the Catholics, Wm. and Maiy proclaimed, overflow of the Ouse and a great fire at York. . 265, 266 Great drought here 266 Visit of the Prince of Hesse 268 Visit of the Duke of Cumberland 268, 849 Visit of the King of Denmark 270 Visit of the Duke of York 270 Corps of volunteers embodied . . 273 Marquis of Eockingham's funeral . . 373 Prince of Wales and Duke of York at York races 278 Visit of Charles James Fox 378 Visit of Prince WiUiam Frederick of Glo'ster and the Earl St. Vincent 374 Mary Bateman, the " Yorkshire Witch" 274 Visit of the Duke of Sussex 275 The Queen, Prince Albert, the Duke of Cambridge, &c., at York 376 Eoyal Agricultural Society's Show. . 376 Great banquet at Guild Hall 376 Visit of the Queen and Royal famUy 379 York, Earl and Dukes of. 383 Origin of the City of York 389 PA6E Etymology of the name 290 Eesemblanoe of York to Eome .... 291 Is the seat of the Eoman Emperors 292 Temple of BeUona 293 Eoman Remains of Bepulchres, tesse lated pavements, altars, ware, &e. 293 Temple of Serapis 395 Eoman burial place 398 Saxon remains 310 Festival of Christmas first held at York 311 Description of York in Domesday. . 313 Houses and population of York in the time of Edward the Confessor 818 Great Council of the North 819, 343 Thanksgiving and iUuminations for peace 320 Topography of the City of York. . . . 330 Situation of the City 831 Description of the fortifications .... 331 Leland's description of York 333 Eestoration of the walls 833 Circumference of the ramparts .... 337 Entrance gates or Bars 337 Micklegate Bar, 337 ; Bootham Bar, 829; Monk Bar, 330; Walmgate Bar and Barbican, 330; Fisher- gate Bar and Postern, 331; the other Posterns 333 Lendal Tower 332 Roman Multangular Tower, and Eoman WaU 333 Eed Tower 336 Old BaUe HUl 337, 382 York Castie 337, 601 CUfford's Tower 338 Site of the Prastorium Palace ; . 343 The Manor Palace 343 Site of Percy's Inn 346 Old Archiepiscopal Palace 347, 460 Lardiner Hall and Duke's Hall .... 347 Mulberry, or Mulbrai, Hall 349 The George Inn 349 The Castie MUls 851 Names of Streets, derivation of ... . 352 Abbot of St. Mary's fair 854 Jews numerous in York 359 The "RaUway King," former resi dence of 363 A street named after him 366 First. Coffee House in York 364 The New Walk 367 Suburbs and Bridges of York 368, Ouse Bridge 368 St. WiUiam's Chapel 369 Mortality, Cholera 373 INDEX. Xlll PAGE Sanitary measures 372 Drainage of the Foss Islands 373 AboUtion of intramural interment. . 374 Mcclesiastieal affairs 875 Dispute about the Primacy 876 Income of Bishops 376 Dean aud Chapter of York 377 Arms of the Cathedral 378 list of the Archbishops 388 list of the Deans 386 Annals of the Archbishops 387 St. WiUiam's entry into York — acci dent on Ouse Bridge 400 Great feast iu honour of Archbishop NevUle's enthronization 404 Cardinal Wolsey 405 Anecdote of Archbishop Mountain . . 41 1 The Cardinal of York 415 The Cathedral, or Minster 415 The ediace rebuUt 418 Saxon, Norman, and Gothic archi tecture 419 Dates of the erection of the Minster 424 Chantries in the Minster 425 Minster burnt by Jonathan Martin 426 Another fire in the Minster 439 Musical Festivals 438 Great beU," Peter of York" 430 Description of the Minster 433 trhe Ladye ChapeUe 446 Relics 451 The stained glass windows 454 Dimensions of the Minster 459 Comparative dimensions of the prin cipal Cathedrals 459 The monuments 459 Chapter House, description of .... 469 Dignitaries, &c., of the Cathedral . . 473 Comparative capacity for accommo dation of the largest Churches in Europe 474 Minster Yard 475 Minster Libraiy 476 Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre 479 Liberty of St. Peter 481 St. WilUam's CoUege 488 The Bedern 484 St. Leonard's Hospital 487 St. Mary's Abbey 491 Holy Trinity Priory 506 Dominican Friary 508 Franciscan Friary 508 Augustinian Friary 509 CarmeUte Friary 510 Benedictine Nunnery 513 St. Andrew's Priory 513 PAGE Hospital of St. Nicholas 514 Hospital of St. Magdalen 514 Hospital of St. Antiiony 615 St. Anthony's HaU 516 Various religious guilds 517 Churches of York 519 All Saints' Church, North St 530 All Saints, Pavement, 533: Church of St. Crux, 534; of St. Cuthbert, 526; of St. Dennis, 528; of St. Olave, 580; of St. Helen, Stone- gate, 533 ; of St. John, 534 : of St. Lawrence, 585; of St. Margaret, 537; of St. Martin, Coney St., 539; of St. Martin, Micklegate, 543 ; of St. Mary BishophUl Senior, 545; of St. Mary BishophUl Junior, 546 ; of St. Mary, Castiegate, 547 ; of St. Michael-le-Belfrey, 549 ; of St. Mi chael, Low Ousegate, 553 ; of St. Sampson, 553; of St. Saviour, 555 ; of the Holy Trinity, King's Sq., 556; of the Holy Trinity, Mickle gate, 557; of the Holy Trinity, Goodramgate, 560; of St. Maurice, 561; of St. Paul, 563; and of St. Thomas, 563 Dissenting Chapels 563 CathoUcs 569 CathoUc Church of St. George 571 Catholic fraternities 574 Convent of St. Mary 574 .Public Schools: — St. Peter's, 575; Holgate's, 577; Training Institu tion, 577; Yeoman, 578; School of Art, 579; WUberforce School forthe Blind, 581; Blue Coat, 583 ; Spinning, 583; Wilson's Charity, 584; Eagged, 584; Dodsworth's, 584; Haughton's, 585; National Schools, 585 ; British, 586 ; Wes leyan, 586; Independent, 587; St. George's Catholic, 587; Convent Schools, 587; Sunday Schools, 588. Almshouses, or Hospitals ; — ^Agar's Barstow's and St. Catherine's, 589; Colton's and Harrison's, 589; Hewley's aud Ingram's, 590 ; Ma son's, Maison Dieu, and Middle- ton's, 591; Merchant TaUor's, and Old Maid's, 593; St. Thomas's, 593; Thompson's and Trinity Hospitals, 595 ; Watter's and Wil son's, 596 ; and Winterskelf s, 597. Population, &e., of York 597 INDEX. PAGE Commerce, Trade, &a 599 Markets, Fairs, &o 601 Corporation of York 604 Franchise 609 Freemen's Strays 610 York Tyburn 610 Courts of Justice 611 Guild HaU 613 Mansion House 616 The Judge's Lodgings 618 Assembly Rooms 619 Festival Concert Eoom 631 Theatre Eoval 623 Yorkshire Club House 633 The De Grey Eooms 633 County Gaol (York Castle) 623 City House of Correction 626 Post Office 637 Merchants' Hall 638 Merchant TaUors' and other Halls . . 639 York County Hospital 630 Other Medical Institutions 631 York Lunatic Asylum 633 Retreat Lunatic Asylum 634 PAGE Pauper Lunatic Asylum 635 Yorkshire PhUosophical Society . . 636 The Museum and its contents 637 British Association 640 York Institute 644 Yorkshire Architectural Society. . . . 645 Yorkshire NaturaUsts' Club 645 Yorkshire Antiquarian Club 646 Subscription and select libraries . . 646 News Rooms 647 Newspapers 648 RaUways 648 Gas and Water Works 650, 651 PubUo Baths 652 Banks, Barracks, &c 652 York ]^oor Law Union 653 Penitentiary and City Mission 654 Reformatory Schools 654 Model Lodging House 656 Cemetery 657 Cholera Burial Ground 657 Racecourse (Knavesmire) 658 Eminent Men connected with York 661 Its probable occupation by the Eo mans 672 The Saxon origin of the name 674 The town burnt and plundered by Tosti 675 Mauor of Walsgrif (Falsgrave) 675 Early charters granted 676 Leland's description of Scarbro' 677 Boundaries of the old town 678 Bland's Cliff formed 678 Chamell Garth 678, 708 MiU Beok, the ancient fosse 679 Scarborough Castie 680 Its early Governors 683, 697 Visits of Kings John and Edw. I. . . 683 The town burnt by the Scotch .... 684 The Castle besieged 686 Visit of Eichard III 686 The Castle taken by stratagem 687 The town stormed by the ParUa- meutarians 687 Siege of the Castle in 1644 688 Terms of its surrender 690 Sir Hugh Cholmley 692 Siege of the Castie in 1648 693 The articles of rendition 694 Captain Brown BusheU 696 Two providential escapes 696 George Fox imprisoned here 697 The Barracks erected 697 Description of the present ruins of the Castle 699 Ancient Chapel iu the Castle 700 Cistercian Abbey and Eectory . . 703, 745 Eeligious Houses .¦ 704 Church of St. Sepulchre 705 St. Nicholas's Hospital and Church 709 St. Thomas's Hospital and Church 710 Knights HospitaUers 711 Topography ; — Situation and description 711 Discovery of the Spa 714 Dickey Dickinson 715 Spa Saloon erected 716 The CUff Bridge 717 Analysis of the Spa water 718 Ports, Piers, aud Harbour 719 White Nab Quarry 721 INDEX. PAGE Shipping, &c 733 Life Boat ^ . . . 733 CarneUan Bay 723 Population, Trade, &o 734 Markets and Fairs 735 The ancient Mart 735 Disputes about Scarborough and Sea mer Markets 736 Ancient Market Cross i 737 Tax caUed Gablage 738 CivU Government 738 GaUows Close 739 The Mayor tossed in a blanket 739 The present Corporation 731 Courts, Franchise, &c 733 MisceUaneous Mems 734 Dreadful Fire at Scarbro' 735 Earl of Scarborough 785 St. Mary's Church 736 Chantries in St. Mary's 738 Its restoration 740 Christ Church 746 St. Thomas's Church 747 The Bar Church 747 PAGE Chapels 748 Catholics 749 Catholic Church of St. Peter 750 Schools 751 Hospitals and Almshouses 758 Charitable Institutions 755 Town HaU 756 Newborough Bar 757 Museum 757 Odd Fellows' Hall 759 PubUc Market HaU 759 Theatre and Savings' Bank 760 Philosophical and Archseological So ciety 761 Mechanics' Institute 761 libraries. News Eooms, &c 763 Temperance Societies 763 Cemetery 763 Longevity 763 OUver's Mount 764 The Mere and the Plantation 764^5 Eminent Men 765 Falsgrave Township 767 ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. 35, Une 3 from the foot, for chalk-oolite, read chalk and oolite (they are distinct formations.) 85, Une 8, add at the foot of the page the foUowing note to the words, " Petrifying WeU :" — This weU is vulgarly caUed a Petrifying Well, but no petrifaction (or permeation of matter through any subject) takes place there. It is simply incrustation of mineral matter held in solution by the water at Knaresborough. 178, Une 9, foot note to the word " Bible :" — Stephen Langton, tha Pope's Legate, and Archbishop of Canterbury, is said to be the first who divided the Bible into chapters and verses. 197 and 687, add the foUowing foot note to the proverbial expression, " Scar borough Warning," &c. — A Scarborough Warning, according to FuUer, was no warning at aU; but a sudden surprise when a mischief is fit before it be suspected. He adds, from Godwin's Annals, that this proverb took its origin from Mr. Stafford's attempt to seize Scarborough Casfle, before the townsmen had the least notice of his approach. 358, line 13 from the foot, for was abolished, read temporarily abolished. 376, lines 4 and 5, for had in each Une, read has. 674, line 30, for Knut and Gorm, read Knut and Harold, sons of Gorm* ; and add as a foot note — Before the year 930, when Gorm, King of Denmark, died. 697, line 14, addr—lja. 1838, Lieut.-Col. James Grant, late 33rd Foot, was Governor of Scarborough Castle. DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIRE. The County of York is situated nearly in the centre of the Kingdom, and is bounded on the N.E. and E. by the German Ocean ; on the S. by the rivers Humber and Trent, whioh separate it from Lincolnshire, and by the counties of Nottingham, Derby, and Chester ; on the W. by Lancashire ; on the N.W. by Westmorland ; and on the N. by Durham. The general form of the County is that of an irregular quadrangle, with two projecting points at its N.W. and S.E. angles ; and its extreme points lie between the parallels of 63 deg. 18 min. and 54 deg. 40 min. N. latitude, and between S deg. 40 min. W., and 0 deg. 10 min. E. longitude of the meridian of Greenwich. The circuit of the County is about 460 miles ; its length from east to west is 110 miles ; and its breadth from north to south is 90 miles. It extends in its longest part about 130 miles, from Spurn Head, at the mouth of the Humber, to Lune Forestj where it joins Durham and Westmorland,, these being its south-eastern and north-western extremities. At an early period of the Saxon dominions it was divided into three grand districts called Hidings, which, in reference to their relative positions with respect to each other, and to the City of York, are termed East, West, and North Ridings. The North Riding is sub-divided into twelve Wapentakes, including the Liberty of Whitby Strand. The West Riding, the largest of the three divisions, is in nine sub-divisions, including the Ainsty Wapentake, which was formerly the County of the City of York, but was annexed to the West Riding in the year 1836 ; and the East Riding, the smallest, has seven Wapentakes. Each of the three Ridings has a separate Lieutenancy, Ma gistracy, Clerk of the Peace, Treasurer, and other public offieers, and- courts; but aU of them are amenable to the superior courts held for the whole County at York Castle, which stands within the bounds of the City of York. Though the latte.r place is a County of itself, holding separate courts of gaol delivery? »¦ 2 DESCEIPTION OF TOEKSHIKE. &c., the electors of the City unite with the North Riding in the election of Knights of tlie Shire. This great and noble maritime County is by far the largest, and in the number and wealth of its inhabitants, as well as in its natural and artificial productions, the most considerable and important Shire in the Kingdom. Its area, according to the latest Parliamentary Report, is 5,983 square miles, or, 3,839,286 statute acres.* The population of the County in 1851 was 1,797,995 souls ; of which number 893,749 were males, and 905,946 females.f It contains about 620 parishes, comprising about 5000 villages and hamlets ; 1 archiepiscopal City (York) ; 1 episcopal City (Ripon) ; 13 Corporate towns ; 17 Parliamentary Boroughs ; and 59 market towns. It returns 37 Members to Parliament, and is divided into 50 Poor Law Unions. It is in the Northern Circuit ; in the archiepiscopal province of York ; and in the dioceses of York and Ripon. The whole of the North and East Ridings and a great part of the West Riding, is chiefly dependent on agriculture ; but the latter division is distinguished for extensive manufactures of woollen cloth, worsted •stuff, cutlery, and other hardware. The North Riding, which comprehends the whole of the north side of the County, is of an irregular oblong figure, from 70 to 83 miles in length from E. to W., and varying from 25 to 47 mUes in breadth from N. to S. It lies between the parallels of 53 deg. 57 min. and 54 deg. 38 min. N. latitude, , and between 0 deg. 19 min. and 2 deg. 23 min. W. longitude from Green wich. It extends westward from the ocean to the confines of Westmorland, * The area of each division of Yorkshire, and density, in 1851. Area Area Persons Acres Inhabited Persons DIVISIONS. in Square MUes. in Statute to a to a Houses to a tea Acres. Square Mile. Person. Square Mile. House. TOEK GlTX 4 8,780 8,543 0.7 1,665 5.1 East Eidinq 1,301 768,419 183 3.5 87 4.9 North Biding 8,109 1,350,131 103 6.3 21 4.8 West Eiding 8,869 1,708,036 496 1.3 99 5.0-- + Population of each division of Yorkshire, as enumerated at each Census from 1801 to 1851 inclusive; also, increase of population per cent, in the half century. DIVISIONS. YEARS. Increase of Population 1801. 1811. 1821, 1831. 1841. 1851. per cent. in 50 years. YoEK Citt East Biding. ... North Hiding . . West Elding . . 16,846 111,193 158,987 573,168 19,099 133,975170,137 663,875 31,711 154,648 ,188,178 809,368 26,260 168,891192,806984,609 28,848 194,936804,701 ], 163,580 36,303 820,983215,814 1,335,495 116 9735 183 DESCEIPTION OF YOHKSHIEE. 3 and is bounded on the N. by the river Tees, which separates it from the County of Durham ; on the N.E. and E. by the North Sea ; on the S.E. by the East Riding ; on the S. by the river Ouse and the West Riding ; and on the W. by the County of Westmorland. The Riding is divided into twelve Wapentakes, and contains about 290 parishes, and 580 townships. The principal towns are Northallerton, Scarborough, Whitby, Pickering, Malton, Yarm, Stokesley, Guisborough, Middlesborough, Redoar, Kirbymoorside, Helmsley, Thirsk, Richmond, Bedale, Masham, Middleham, Leybourn, Askrigg, and Hawes. The City of York is attached to the North Riding in the election of two Knights of the Shire. The gaol, house of correction, and the principal courts and offices of the Riding, are situated at its capital — ^Northallerton ; and its six Parlia mentary Boroughs are Malton, Richmond, Scarborough, Thirsk, Northal lerton, and Whitby. More than 400,000 acres of this Riding are uncultivated hUls, feUs, and moors, some of which rise to the height of from 1,000 feet to more than 2,000 feet above the level of the sea. The highest of the mountains are_ Roseberry Topping, 1,023, or according to some, 1,488 feet ; Black Hamilton, 1,346 feet; Botton Head, near Stokesley, 1,485 feet; Nine Standards, on the borders of Westmorland, 2,136 feet ; Water Crag, 2,186 feet ; and Shunner Fell, 2,329 feet above the sea.* The three latter are at the west end of the Riding. Mr. Tuke, who surveyed the North Riding in the early part of the present century, estimated its contents at 1,311,187 acres ; of which about 442,565 were then, and are still, mostly uncultivated moors. He divided the Riding into six districts, as follows : — Cultivated Uncultivated acres. acres, Tbe Coast 64,930 Cleveland 70,444 "Vale of York, Howardian HUls, &c 441,388 15,000 Eyedale, with the East and West Marisbes 100,437 3,435 Eastern Moorlands 103,000 . 198,835 Western Moorlands 90,000 226,940 Total 869,187 442,000 Of the uncultivated lands, about 136,635 acres in the Eastern Moorlands and 76,940 acres in the Western Moorlands, are incapable of improvement except by planting ; but a great part of the remainder might be converted " into arable or pasture land. • Colonel Mudge's Trigonometrical Survey. 4 DESCBIPTION OF TOBKSHIRE. Along tbe coast from Scarborough nearly to the mouth of the Tees, the face of the country is hilly and bold, the cliffs overhanging the beach being generally from 60 to 150 feet high, and in some places still higher, as at Stoupe Brow, or Stow Brow, which rises 190 feet above Robin Hood's Bay. The moors in the back ground rise to an altitude of about 1,000 feet, and the gradual slope from the moors to the sea renders the climate cold and stormy. The Eastern Momiands, which bound the narrow strip of coast land between Scarborough and Whitby, is a wild and mountainous district, about thirty miles in length from east to west, and twenty in breadth from north ^ to south, and is intersected by several beautiful and fertile dales, some of which are extensive. The most remarkable object in the topography of these wilds is the singular peaked mountain called Boseberry Topping, which is situated at the north-west angle of the Eastern Moorlands, near the village of Newton, about one mile to the east of the road from Guisborough to Stokesley, and which will be described in the history of the parish to which it belongs.At the west end of the East Moorlands, about three miles west of Helmsley, is a lofty range of hills called Black or Bleak Hambleton or HamUton. This range, which has, at a distance, the appearance of but one elevation, rises between' the open and luxuriant Vale of De Mowbray, and the romantic Ryedale, and commands from its summits varied and extensive prospects, in which are seen the towns of Northallerton, Thirsk, Kirbymoorside, Helmsley, ' the Catholic College of Ampleforth, the ancient Castle of GUling, and the picturesque remains of the Abbeys of Byland and Rievaulx. The northern heights of the East Moorlands are known as the Cleveland HUls ; and the fine fertile tract which lies between them and the river Tees, is called the Vale of Cleveland. From the tenacity of its clays, or from its craggy cliffs, Cleveland is supposed to derive its name. The old local dis tich, " Cleveland in the clay brings us two soles and carries one away," alludes to the cleaving of the clays to the shoes of the traveller. The ex tensive Vale of York, which, according to Mr. Tuke, reached from the border of the Tees to the southern confines of the County, by Selby, Thome, and Doncaster, has its northern portion in this Riding. It is bounded on eaph side by the Eastern and Western Moorlands, and has a gentle slope from the Tees southward as far as York, where it sinks into a perfect flat ; not however before its ordinarily level surface is broken by several bold swells. A range of Highlands, called the Hoivardian Hills, separates this vale from Byedale. The latter dale, and the East and West Marishes, form an exten- DESCEIPTIDN OF YOEKSHIEE. 5 sive level between the Eastern Moorlands and the river Derwent. This level, which consists of the Vales of Rye and Derwent, extends under the southern margin of the Eastern Moorlands from Helmsley to Scarborough and Filey. The Marishes are separated from Ryedale by the Pickering Beck. The Western Moorlands lie to the west of the Vale of York, and extend westward from Richmond, Bedale, and Masham, to the borders of West morland and the County of Durham. These, which are of far greater elevation than the East Moorlands, form part of the mountainous range ¦ whioh terminates the West Riding, near the lofty mountains of Whernside, Ingleborough, and Pennigant, each rising to nearly 2,500 feet above the level of the sea. Though these moorlands are much higher than those at the east end of the Riding, they are generally more fertile than the latter ; and among them are some of the richest vaUeys in England. There are several extensive Dales in the North Riding. Wensleydale, which is one of them, is watered by the serpentine stream of the Ure ; Swaledale ranks next to it in extent, aud both of these dales are very beautiful and romantic. Teesdale is of a similar character, and like the two former ones, has.several steep acclivities and beautiful cascades. The smaller dales are very nu merous, and are generally very fertile. The Climate of the North Riding is various. On the coast it is cold ; in the Vale of York the air is mild and temperate, except near the moors. The Howardian Hills are cold ; the great altitude of the East Moorlands render their climate very cold, but the air of the West Moorlands is much colder, though the latter are more favourable to vegetation than the former, owing ¦ to their calcareous composition. Cleveland being exposed to the cold winds from the moorlands and the sea, has a climate somewhat severe. The Soil along the coast consists of a strong brownish clay and loam. * The district of Cleveland has mostly a strong clayey soil ; but in some places a clayey loam prevails, and in others a fine red sandy soil. This is generally a fertile and well cultivated vale. On the East Moorlands, near the old enclosures, are some considerable tracts of loamy and sandy soils, producing furze, fern, thistles, and coarse grass. The subsoil is various, and the basis of the whole district is freestone. The surface of some of the higher hills is entirely covered with large masses of freestone ; in other places are extensive morasses and peat bogs, very deep, frequently not pas sable, and highly dangerous. These morasses produce ling, and occasionally bent and rushes. The Hamilton Hills, whioh form the western end of these wastes, are, however, very different, having generally a fine loamy soil on a 6 DESCEIPTION OF TOEKSHIBE. limestone rock, which produces great quantities of coarse grass and bent, in some places intermixed with ling. Some of the mountains on the western side of the country are covered with fine sweet grass, and others with exten sive tracts of bent. In the Vale of York, the level land near the Tees consists chiefly of a rich gravelly loam ; upon the high grounds on the west side of the road from Catterick to Pierce Bridge, the soil is mostly strong, and generally fertUe, but in some places cold and springy. Fine hazel loam is also occasionally met with. On the east side of the road from Greta Bridge to Catterick is much flne gravelly soil, with a considerable quantity of clay, and some peat ; and to the north of Richmond is a mixed loamy soil, resting on lime or freestone ; the latter exceUent for building. On the east side of the Catterick and Pierce Bridge 'road is some cold thin clayey soU, of a ferruginous ochreous appearance, probably containing iron. About Barton, Melsonby, and Middleton Tyas, the soil is loamy, upon limestone ; but about Hanlaby, and from thence eastward to the edge of Cleveland, and between the Wiske and the Eastern Moorlands, as far as Burrowhy and Thornton-le-moor, is mostly a cold clay ; though, in some places, less tena cious sqjls, mixed with various kinds of pebbles, are met with. On the west side of the road between Richmond and Leeming, a good gravelly soil pre vails ; towards Hornby, a flne gravelly clay ; and at Langthorn, a fertile sandy loam, and some peat. The land on both sides of the brook which runs from Burton Constable to Bedale, &c., is mostly a rich loam ; but in some places intermixed with cobble stones and coarse gravel. The soil between Catterick and Boroughbridge, on both sides of Leeming-lane, is generally fertile both in tiUage and pasturage, being mostly a rich loam, and having in some places a mixture of gravel, and in others sand. The soil of the Howardian HiUs is mostly a good strong loam upon clay, mixed with cobble stones, and in some places it is light and fertile, upon a limestone rock. The western end of these highlands, and from thence to Thirsk, is chiefly a dairy country. Ryedale and the Vale of Derwent are extremely fertUe, having generaUy a hazel loam upon clay; or a deep warp or silt soU on gravel or clay. The Marishes, East and West, are a low swampy tract of marsh lands. The soil in these marshes is chiefly clay, with some sandy loam, gravel, and ' peat. The soU of Wensleydale, near the river, is generaUy a rich loamy gravel, and on the sides of the hiUs, a good loam, in some places a Uttle stiff, upon a substratum of limestone. The soU of Swaledale and Teesdale is mostly a rich loam, though clay and peat moss appear in some places in ascending the hiUs. Agricidture, throughout the greater part of the North Riding, has within DESCEIPTION OF tOEKSHlEE. 7 the last half century advanced as rapidly as in most parts of the kingdom, considering the circumstances of climate and soil. In the Vale of York more than one third is in tiUage, and the rest in grass. Ryedale, the Marishes, and the northern part of the coast have about one third in tiUage ; the southern part of the coast about one-half. About one-half of Cleveland is in tUlage. In the dales of the Eastern Moors only about one-fifth is in tiUage, and much less in those of the Western Moors. The lower and better part of the moors are mostly stinted pastures, on which cattle are kept in summer ; but the high moors are generaUy ,unlimited pastures. Cleveland is as re markable for the culture of wheat as Ryedale is for that of oats. Barley is not much cultivated in the North Riding, nor rye, except on poor and sandy soils ; but meslin, or a mixture of wheat and rye, was, tiU a few years ago, very common ; and from it was made nearly all the household bread used in the district. Great quantities of rape are grown in Ryedale and other dis tricts ; and mustard is grown near York, and prepared for use in that City. The latter is equal in quality to the Durham mustard. The enclosed lands in many parts of the dales are chiefly appropriated to meadow. The farms are generaUy large.* The Woodlands of the North Riding are only estimated at about 30,000 acres, dispersed in aU directions, the, moorland and Cleveland having the smaUest proportion. Oak, ash, and broad-leaved or wych elm, are the spon taneous produce of the woodlands. " The oak timber, though not large, is of exceUent quaUty," writes White, in his Gazetteer, "being produced on sound and often rocky ground, its growth is slow, which renders it extremely hard and durable, and to the use of it the ship-builders of Whitby owe their * Agricultural Statistics of England. — The area of England in statute acres, is ^32,590,439. Mc. Queen's Statistics of the British Empire, gives the quantity of culti- vated land in England at 35,632,000 acres ; of these he computes that 15,379,300 acres were pasture and meadow land, and 10,353,800 were garden and arable. He calculates the average value to be 35s. per acre. It is calculated that at least 1,300,000 acres of land in England are taken up with hedges; half of which without inconvenience might be dispensed with. From the last Census Report we leam what follows : — Farms occupy two-thirds of the land in England. The number of the farms is 335,818, the average size 111 aores. Two-thirds of the farms are under that size, but there are 771 above 1,000 acres. The large holdings abound in the south-eastern and eastern counties, the small farms iu the north. There are 3,000 English farmers holding nearly 3,000,000 acres; and there are 97,000 EngUsh farmers not holding more. There are 40,650 farmers who employ five labourers each; 16,501 have ten or more, and employ together 311,707 labourers; 170 farmers have above 60 labourers each, and together employ 17,000. 8 BESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. wealth, and the ships their celebrity." There is a great quantity of large timber trees in the hedge rows in various parts of the Riding. This district is said to produce some of the finest and largest Cattle in England, the breed having of late years been greatly improved. The Tees water or Holderness Breed of cattle are considered the largest in the kingdom, and they fetch very high prices in the market. " They are handsome animals, distinctly marked with red or black blotches on a white ground ; their backs level ; throats clean ; necks fine ; carcase fuU and round ; quar ters long ; hips and rumps even and wide. ; stand rather high on their legs ; handle very lightly ; are light in the bone ; and have a very flne coat and thin hide." We may add to this graphic description, that this breed ia short-horned, and is bred chiefly in the northern part of the Vale of York. In the southern part of the same vale the breeding of cattle is not so much attended to as in the north ; the chief object of the graziers there, being the dairy. Towards the western extremity of the Riding some long-horned cattle are met with, and also a mixed breed between the two. Ryedale, the Marishes, and the Howardian HUls are also celebrated for fine short-horned cattle ; and a great number of good cattle are bred on the East Moorlands and along the coast. The Tees-water breed of sheep, the old stock of Cleveland and the northern parts of the Vale of York, are large, coarse boned, and slow feeders, and their wool is harsh and dry. But most of this stock has been improved by a mixture of the Leicestershire and Northumberland breeds ; as also have those in Ryedale, the Marishes, and the Howardian HiUs, where a cross has Ukewise been obtained from the Lincolnghire long-wooUed breed. The na tive moorland sheep are smaU and hardy. Yorkshire has long been famed for its Horses, and the North Riding, is particularly distinguished for its breed. The fame of the Yorkshire horses is deservedly spread, not only in this country, but also in Prance, Germany, Russia, America, &c., and dealers from those countries generaUy attend the great annual fair at Howden, and are frequently commissioned by Emperors and Kings to purchase horses there. The horses of the Vale of York, by the introduction of the racing blood, are rendered the most valuable breed for the saddle ; and the Cleveland horses are well adapted to the coach or the plough. Other parts of the Riding produce exceUent horses lUiewise, for the saddle and coach, and in the moorland dales is bred a hardy and useful description of horse, forming a medium between the Scotch gaUoway and the strong coach horse. The Minerals of this district of the County consist chiefly of alum, lead, DESCEIPTION OP YOEKSHIEE. 9 freestone or grit, limestone, ironstone, and a very inferior kind of coal. Cleveland and the coast abound in all their hiUs with beds of aluminous strata; and there are extensive works for the manufacture of alum, near Whitby. There are Lead Mines in Swaledale, Arkengarthdale, and the neigh bouring vaUeys ; and great quantities of ironstone are found in Bilsdale, Bransdale, and Rosedale, in the Eastern Moorlands, where iron seems to have been extensively manufactured in ancient times. The huge heaps of slag, and the remains of ancient works, with the appearance of the hearths where charcoal has been burned, show that iron was anciently wrought in several of the dales in this district, on an extensive scale. There is a great abundance of iron ore in the Cleveland HiUs ; and near Pickering there is a very large and singular deposit of this ore, as it is attracted by the magnet when powdered, and contains from seventy to eighty per cent, of metallic iron. Some ironstone is got on the coast near Whitby. A mine of very fine copper, near Middleton Tyas, was wrought for some years, about the middle of the last century, and veins of the same metal are supposed to lie concealed in various parts of the Western Moorlands. Near the bridge at Richmond, in 1798, copper of an exceUent quality was discovered. Freestone and grit, of an exceUent quality for building, is found in many parts of this Riding, especially on Gatherley Moor, near Richmond ; at Ronton, near Boroughbridge ; and in the quarries near Whitby and Scar borough ; from whence are drawn the massive blocks used in the construction of the piers at these ports. In the Vale of the Tees and the Greta are found inexhaustible quarries of Marble, which is used, though in no great quantities, to ornament the mansions of the Uving, and to form the monuments of the dead. Limestone is very abundant on the Western Moorlands and on the HamUton and Howardian HUls. Seams of coal, which is heavy, sulphureous, and bums entirely away to a white ashes, are wrought in different parts of both the Eastern and Western Moorlands, at GilUng Moor on the Howardian HiUs, and in the Vale of York, between Easingwold and Thirsk. Marble of various kinds, together with a kind of flag stone used for covering roofs, and a sort of purple slate, are also dug up in this district. On the surface of some of the north-western hUls large blocks of light red granite are seen. The climate of the North Riding appears to be as favourable to longevity as that of most parts of the kingdom. The most remarkable in the list of departed venerables are Henry Jenkins, of EUerton-on-Swale, who died in 1670, aged 169 years ; Mary WUkinson, of Romaldkirk, who died in 1783, aged 109 ; Tliomas Martin, of Helmsley, who died in 1804, at the age of 10 DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. 130 years ; John Davidson, (late a sergeant of the 5th regiment of foot), who died at RawcUffe, November 11, 1854, aged 101 years ; and Jane Garbutt, who died at Welbury, near NorthaUerton, on the 10th of December, 1836, after having completed her 109th year, in the month of May previous.* The East Riding, which comprises the south-east part of the County, is an irregular figure, resembling the outline of a shoulder of mutton, of which Holderness may be called the shank, terminating in a narrow point at the confluence of the Humber with the ocean, whence the Riding extends from 50 to 60 miles northward, varying in its widest parts from 30 to 40 mUes in breadth from east to west. It is situated between the parallels of 53 deg. 85 min. and 54 deg. 15 min. N. latitude, aud 1 deg. 10 min. W. and 0 deg. 10 min. E. longitude from the meridian of Greenwich. Its boundaries on the N. and N.W. are formed by the little river Hertford, and the Derwent, wliich divides it from the North Riding as far down as Stamford Bridge ; and from a mile aibove that place, by an irregular boundary line which joins the Ouse, about a mile below York ; from this point it is bounded on the W, and S.W. by the river Ouse, which separates it from the West Riding ; on the S. by the Humber ; and on the E. by the North Sea or German Ocean. It is a rich agricultural district, and contains seven Wapentakes, about 197 parishes, arid about 400 townships. Its principal towns are HuU, Beverley, Bridlington, Driffield, Hedon, Hornsea, Howden, Market Weighton, Pock lington, and Patrington. Hull, or Kingston-upon-HuU, is an ancient town and county of itself, but attached to the East Riding in the election of two Knigtits of the Shire to serve in Parliament. Beverley, the capital «f -the Riding, is the only ^Parliamentary Borough in it — Hedon, an ancient lo- rough, having been disfranchised in 1832. The coast of this Riding has two remarkable promontories — Flamliorough Head, and Spurn Point— 'tad has been much 'wasted by the incursions of the sea during the present cen tury ;|- but on its southern border, several thousands of acres of fertUe land, • Centenaeians. — At the last Census 111 men and 208 women have been returaedot ages ranging from TOO to 119 years; and to the scientific inquirer in the districts where these old people reside, an opportunity is aflforded of investigaliiBg and seHing'-tD. rest a problem of much greater interest than some of the curious questions that engage the attention of learned societies. Two-thirds of the centenarians are women. Several of them in England are natives of parishes of Ireland or Scotland, where no efficient system of registration exists ; few of them reside in the parishes where they "were born, and have been known froUi youth ; many^of the old people are paupers, and probaUj illiterate : so that it would no doubt be difficult to obtain the documentary evidenoe which can alone be accepted as conclusive proof of such extraordinary ages. t The " Wasting Clifi's of Holderness" are said to lose, in maUy pai-ts, from two t« three yards, annually, by tbe encroachments of the sea. DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. 11 caUed Sunk Island, have been recovered from the estuary of the Humber, by a, system of warping and embanking, which was commenced in the reign of Charles L The East Riding is far less conspicuously marked with, the bolder features of nature than the other parts of the County. It may be distinguished into three districts, the Wolds, and the two Level tracts, one of which lies to the east, and the other to the west and north of that elevated region. The high Wolds are lofty ranges of chalk hUls, extending from the banks of the Hum ber, in the vicinity of Hessle, in a northerly direction, to the neighbourhood of Malton on the Derwent, where they range eastward within a few miles of the course of that river, to the coast, where they form the lofty promontory of Flamborough Head ; and in the vicinities of the viUages of Flamborough, Benipton, and Speeton, they rise in cliffs of from 100 to 160 feet At Rip- lingham Clump, and, Hunsley Beacon, the Wolds are about 530- feet high ; and at Garraby Beacon, where they reach their greatest elevation, they are 805 feet above the level of the sea. The ascent to the Wolds is somewhat steep, except on the eastern side, where they rise in gentle and successive sweUs, presenting a beautiful aspect towards the flat country. Many parts of the Wolds afford magnificent and delightful prospects. From several of the elevated points between the Humber and the high road from Kirk 'EUa, by RipUngham, to Cave, York Minster, Howden Church, Flamborough Head, Bridlington Priory, Beverley Minster, and the Churches of Hull and Hedon, may be distinctly seen ; and Irom some of these heights the Cathedrals of York and Lincoln are at once visible. The eastern parts of this elevated district, skirting the Humber, commands a splendid view of that vast estuary extending to the south-east tiU it is lost in the horizon ; and the farther dis tances are filled up with a view of the shores of Holderness and Lincolnshire. The western hills towards Cave afford a very extensive prospect over an immense level, terminating in the high laudp of the West Riding ; and also of the rivers Ouse and Trent, which, at their junction, are overlooked by the fine promontory of Aukborough. From the western hiUs a good view is obtained of the southem part of the Vale of York, reaching far beyond that City into the West Riding ; and from the northern edge of these hUls the Vale of Derwent is seen extended- below, and beyond it the black moors towards Whitby rise in sublime grandeur. The surface of the Wolds is, for the most part, divided into numerous extensive swells, by deep, narrow, winding valleys ; and the whole extent of the Wold district is computed at about 400,000 acres. According to Professor PhiUips, the extent of the chalk formation of the Wolds is about 376 square mUes, and the thickness 12 DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. of the chalk stratum is not less than 500 feet. " The Wolds of Yorkshire," says the same learned writer, in his Illustrations of the Geology qf Yorkshire, " form one of the most remarkable features in this County. High, and bare of trees, yet not dreary nor sterile, they are furrowed as all other chalk-hiUs, by smooth, winding, ramified vaUies, without any channel for a stream. Where several of these vallies meet, they produce a very pleasing combination of saUent and retiring slopes, which resemble, on a grand scale, the petty con cavities and projections in the actual channel of a river. No doubt these vaUies were excavated by water, but not by the water of rains, or springs, or rivulets. Some greater flood in more ancient -times, has performed the work, and left the traces of its extent in the pebbles which it has deposited along its course." The level tract along, the coast, on the east of the Wolds, begins near Filey, the northern limit of the East Riding. As far as Bridlington the face of the country is beautifuUy diversified with lofty swells, but at that place the country sinks into a flat, which continues for eight or nine miles to the southward with scarcely any variation. About seven miles south of Bridlington the Holderness district begins, the eastern part of which, towards the sea coast, is a finely varied country, in which is situated Hornsea Mere, the largest lake in the County ; but the western edge is a fenny tract of about four miles in breadth, extending nearly twenty mUes in length south ward to the banks of the Humber. These fenny lands are provinciaUy called Carrs. The southern part of this district, bordering on the Humber, also falls into marshes ; and in most parts of Holderness, the views are enUvened by a prospect of the Yorkshire and in some places of the Lincolnshire Wolds. The third natural division of the East Riding extends from the western foot of the Wolds to the boundary of the North and West Ridings. This tract of land, which is commonly called The Levels, is flat and uninteresting, though generaUy fertile and weU interspersed with viUages and hamlets ; in deed it is a continuation of the level tract about and around Selby, Thome, and Goole, on the opposite side of the Ouse. The Soil on the Wolds is commonly a free and rather light loam, with a mixture of chalky gravel, and some parts are very shallow. The flat country extending between the Wolds, the Ouse, and the Humber, towards the Spurn' Head, along the side of the Humber, presents a soil of a strong nature ; and the soil of the Levels is in most parts clayey, with an extensive sandy, and, in some places, moorish tract running through the middle. Near the banks of the Ouse and Derwent it is entirely a clayey loam. One of the most important agricultural improvements in the County is DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. 13 the drainage of the carrs and marshes in this division of it, together with those of the North Riding bordering on the course of the Derwent. The Beverley and Barmston Drainage, executed under the provisions of an Act of Parliament passed about the year 1793, extends from Barmston on the sea shore, a few miles south of Bridlington, along the course of the river HuU, on the western side of that river, nearly to Kingston-upon-HuU, a distance of about 24 miles. Its northern part contains more than 2,000 acres, and has an outfaU into the sea at Barmston ; and the southern division, extending southward from Foston, contains upwards of 10,000 acres, and has its outlet into the river Hull at Wincolmlee. The Holderness Drainage lies on the eastern side of the river HuU, and extends from north to south about eleven miles, and contains 11,211 acres. In 1763 an Act was obtained for draining this level, much of which before that period was of smaU value, being usually covered with water for above half the year. The Keyingham Drainage, lying between Sunk Island and the mainland, was originaUy completed under an Act passed in the year 1732 ; but a new Act was obtained in 1803, under which the course of the drainage was partly altered, and an additional tract of land included, making a total of 5,500 acres. The Hertford and Derwent Drainage contains upwards of 10,000 acres, of which, 4,500 are in the East, and the remainder in the North Riding. This drainage was completed under the powers granted to three Directors, and three Commissioners, by an Act passed in the year 1800. Spalding Moor and Walling Fen, a district lying westward of the southern part of the Wolds, were drained, aUotted, and enclosed, under the provisions of the same Act of Parliament. The Climate of the East Riding varies ; it being colder on the eastern than on the western side of the Wolds, as they break the force of the winds from the German Ocean. The Levels in the Western part of the Riding enjoy a mild cUmate. Near the coast the country is exposed to fogs from the sea and from the Humber. On the Wolds the air is sharp. Every kind of agricultural crop is cultivated in Yorkshire ; and the systems of tiUage, on account of the great diversity of soils and situations, are ex tremely various ; but greater improvements have been made in agriculture, and it has been brought to a higher degree of perfection, and coriducted on a more extensive scale in the East Riding, than in any other portion of the County. Even in the low grounds called the Carrs, adjoining to the river HuU, such improvements have been made by drainage, as less than a century ago would have been deemed impossible. Extensive tracts of land, formerly flooded a great part of the year, and producing scarcely anything but rushes and a little coarse grass, are now covered with abundant crops of grain ; and 14 DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. the value of the soil has been increased in a tenfold proportion, Tbe farms, especially on the Wolds and in the southern parts of Holderness, are gene raUy very large, and small farmers are rarely to be found, except in the Levels on the western side of the Wolds towards York. Wheat is grown to a great extent on a,U the lower and more fertile lands ; and on the Wolds, where about a century ago it was almost unknown, the valleys and declivities of the hills now wave with plentiful crops of wheat ; and the farm servants and labourers, who formerly, lived on barley bread; now use good wheaten flour. The quantity of land annuaUy sown with barley is nowhere remark ably great, except on the Wolds, the soil of which is peculiarly adapted to its culture. The rabbit warrens, which, in the more uncultivated state of the Wolds, formed a prominent feature, have nearly aU disappeared ; and in proportion to the extirpation of rabbits, the breed of sheep has been im proved, especially by crosses from the Leicestershire. The sheep walks are generally on the more elevated parts of the Wolds. The extensive level, extending from the foot of the Wolds to the western limits of the Riding, has received many great improvements by drainage, enclosure, and the newest modes of agriculture- The vast commons of WaUing Fen and Bishop-, soil, containing upwards of 9,000 acres, which, flfty or sixty years ago, was a dreary waste, full of swamps and broken grounds, and which in foggy or stormy weather could not be crossed without danger, are now covered with weU-built farm houses, and intersected in various directions with good roads, In the rich and strong lands about Howden, large quantities of. flax, and also of beans, are produced; and the whole of the level land in the East Riding yields fine crops of corn of all kinds.' There is Uttle grass land in this district, except on the banks of the Der went above Malton, and again at Cottingham, where there are low tracts of marshy meadows, which produce abundant crops of coarse flaggy hay, of which that obtained from the last-mentioned district is of a pecuUarly nutritive quality. The East Riding is famous for the breeding and " making up" of horses, for which there is one of the most noted fairs in the world, at Howden. Holderness, and some other districts, are distinguished for superior breeds of horned cattle, as well as sheep. Hplderness cows are remarkable for their . large size, abundant supply of milk, and short.horns. They are well formed, and distinctly marked, being variously blotched with large patches of deep red or black, or with a dun or mouse colour on a clear white ground. They are rarely of one uniform colour, and are never brindled or mixed. There are several Agricultural Societies and Farmers' Clubs in Yorkshire, Uberally DESCEIPTION OE YOEkSHtEE. 15 supported by the landowners and farmers. The Yorkshire Agricultural 'Society, formed October 10th, 1837, and constituted on the model of the Highland Society of Scotland, may be considered the chief of them. It need "scarcely be added that the object of these associations is the encouragement and improvement of agriculture in aU its branches. There are no extensive Woods in the East Riding. The only woods east of the Wolds are those at Rise and at Burton Constable ; but there are abundance of plantations, and trees in the hedge rows of old enclosures. Since the beginning of the present century, the fine elevation of the Wolds have been greatly improved by en closures and plantations. Nearly all the fields are now encompassed with quickset hedges, and different parts of the heights are ornamented by ex tensive plantations of Scotch and spruce firs, larch, beech, ash, &c. Several tracts have also been planted in the low country to the west of the Wolds. Chalk and limestone are the principal mineral productions of the East Riding ;— -chalk chiefly on the Wolds, and limestone in the Vale of Derwent. Near the coast the chalk extends from Hessle, on the banks of the Humber, to Reighton, near Hunmanby. The chalk ~is occasionally used in building, and frequently for burning into Ume ; and the Umestone, being coarse and hard, is of little value either for building or burning. The springs in the chalk are very powerful, and many of them, breaking out through the gravel at the eastern foot of the Wolds, combine to form the river HuU. In the gravel beds resting on the chalk, very perfect remains of large animals have been found ; and vertebrse, eighteen feet in length, and from eight to ten inches in diameter, have been exhumed ; as are frequently teeth, measuring from eight to ten inches in circumference. " At HuU the gravel depository of animal remains is about 90 feet from the surface, and the workmen em ployed in boring for water near the North Bridge, describe their tools to have smelt as if they had been cutting fish, so that it is probable that not only the bones, biit also the fleshy part of the animal remains. The coast from Spurn to Bridlington forms a section of all the beds above the chalk ; and as it is not in the line of dip, two beds are generaUy seen at the same time. A bed of -dark red clay commences at KUnsea, containing rounded boulders, mixed with ^pebbles, both of which are composed of granite, gneiss, mica, slate, par- phyry, grauwacke, quartz, mountain limestone containing organic remains, all the sandstones and coal shales, coal, fvllers' earth, chalk, and flint. In this bed 'the chalk pebbles are in the greatest quantity. On the south-western side of Holderness, along the edge of the chalk hills, a very extensive tract of rich land has been formed in the course of ages, called Warp Land, which consists of the clay and sand deposits of the Humber. The greatest breadth of this 16 DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. tract is from Hull to Hedon, a distance of six miles, and its length from HuU to Lowthorpe, a distance of twenty mUes. A narrow piece of newly- formed warp extends from Hedon to Spurn, including Sunk Island, and is called the Marshes. How long this operation of land making has been pro ceeding in this quarter, human penetration and local records are alike incapable of determining ; but that its date is many centuries is obvious, as Drypool, which stands upon the present bank of the Humber, is mentioned in the Domesday Survey, and a causeway, extending from Beverley to the newly built town of HuU, at nearly its present level, existed in the time of Edward I. The depth of the warp at Hull is 48 feet ; beneath it is a bed of moorland, consisting principaUy of peat earth, two feet in thickness. The warp land extends beyond Driffield, but it is there much shallower than at HuU, and its width does hot exceed four miles. That this moor, now covered with warp, was formerly upon the surface, is shown by the nature of its composition being evidently peat, which could not be formed in any other ' situation ; and that it extended across the Humber into Lincolnshire, is proved by pieces of wood, exactly the same as those found in the moor, •having been washed up at Hessle after a high wind.* All along the eastern side of the Wolds, from BridUngton to Beverley, and from thence to Hessle by the Humber side, the sandstone, and the chalk which rests upon it, dip and vanish under an extensive bed of alluvial soil, which forms the whole district of Holderness. The extensive plain on the north, the west, and the south of the Wolds, is covered with an aUuvial deposit. " It may be observed, ¦ as a peculiarity, that the whole of the extreme edge or margin of the Wolds, • to the north and to the west, with one exception, continues in a regular and entire state along the surface, without any of those depressions which take ' place at a very little distance within. It is very probable that the Wolds have been the last deposit of aU the great masses of simple and homogeneous matter in this part of the world. There are scattered all over this elevated tract nodules of pyrites, of a round form, composed of iron and sulphur, whioh the country people caU bullets ; there are also great quantities of loose frag ments of sandstones, which are perfectly foreign to the calcareous matter of which the Wolds are formed, and they have, doubtless, been brought here ' by the action of the sea, after the chalky stratum had been deposited and hardened, or they would have sunk into the pulp."f -The sea coast of the East and North Ridings is about one hundred miles ' in extent from the mouth of the Humber to the mouth of the Tees. The * 'White's Gazetteer of the East and North Eidings of Yorkshire, t Ibid. DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. 17 principal harbours on the coast are Hull, Bridlington, Scarborough, and Whitby ; to which may be added, Filey Bay, Robin Hood's Bay, and several other creeks and fishing stations. The principal Bathing Places on the coast are Scarborough, Whitby, and Redcar, in the North Riding ; and Bridlington, FUey, Hornsea, Aldborough, and Withernsea, in the East Riding. The West Biding is bounded on the N. by the North Riding ; on the E. by the river Ouse to its junction with the Trent ; on the W. by Lancashire ; and on the south by Cheshire, Derbyshire, and Nottinghamshire. As regards extent, population, trade, and manufactures, it is the most important division of the County. Its greatest length from E. to W. is about 95 miles, and its extreme breadth from N. to S. is 48 miles. Itis situated between the paral lels of 53 deg. 18 min. and 54 deg. 23 min. N. latitude, and 0 deg. 43 min. and 2 deg. 40 min. W. longitude from Greenwich. The most important towns in the West Riding are Bradford, Leeds, Sheffield, Halifax, Huddersfleld, Dewsbury, Bamsley, Wakefield, Rotherham, Doncaster, Pontefract, Goole, Bawtry, Selby, Tadeaster, TickhiU, Wetherby, Knaresborough, Otley, Keightley, and the City of Ripon. The Surface of this part of the County is diversified, and gradually varies from a level and marshy, to a rocky and mountainous region. That part of the Vale of York, which Ues along the borders of the Ouse, is a flat and marshy district, intersected by the rivers Ouse, Aire, and Don. The middle parts of the Riding contain a variety of beautiful scenery, but the country westward of Sheffield, Bradford, and Otley, is rugged and mountainous. The western part of the district of Craven presents a confused heap of rocks and mountains ; among which Pennygant, Wharnside, and Ingleborough, are particularly conspicuous. The latter, which is one of the most majestic mountains in the County, rises from a base of nearly ten miles in diameter, to an elevation of 2,360 feet. The scenery in the picturesque vales of the Wharfe, the Aire, and the Ribble, is beautifully diversified. In the middle district of this Riding the air is sharp, clear, and healthful ; in the western the cUmate is cold, tempestuous, and rainy ; and in the eastern parts, to wards the banks of the Ouse, damps and fogs are somewhat prevalent. The SoUs of the West Riding vary from a deep strong clay or loam to the worst peat earth. Almost all the arable land is enclosed with hedges or stone walls ; the former in the eastern, the latter in the western parts. A great part of the Riding is exclusively kept in grass. In the arable land, a greater quantity of wheat is raised than of any other grain. The quantity of oak and ash wood is very considerable, and .both meet with a ready market at the shipping and manufacturing towns. 18 DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. The Mineral productions are of pecuUar value, as they create and supply the manufactures of the district. They consist of coal, iron, stone, and lead. " The West Riding,'' writes the editor of the ParUamentary Gazetteer (1843), " yields in geological interest to no equal space in the kingdom. In this portion of the island, four clearly marked divisions present themselves. The Levels on the east rest on the stratum of red sand and clay, with gypsum or alabaster in varying quantity. The magnesian limestone range is one great plain rising from beneath the Levels, and terminating toward the west in a regular well-defined edge, forijiing the partial summit of drainage. In the south is the great Yorkshire aind Derbyshire coal field, which rivals, or even surpasses in importance, that nf Northumberland. The mining district is, in some parts of the north, exceedingly variable in features, occupying either high or low ground, producing or not producing metallic ores.'' The Manufactures of the West Riding are most valuable and extensive ; they consist chiefly of woollen and stuff' goods and cutlery. The seat of the former is the district including the towns of Leeds, Halifax, Huddersfleld, Bradford, and Wakefield ; and that of the latter, Sheffield and its vicinity. Besides broad and narrow cloth of various qualities, quantities of ladies' cloths and shawls are also manufactured in this district, as weU as camblets, shaUoons, duroys, everlastings, shags, serges, baize, carpets, canvas, linen, sacking thread, &o. The Leeds pottery enjoys a very considerable reputation both at home and abroad. Besides the manufacture of cutlery, there are, also at Sheffield, foundries for iron, brass, and Britannia metal, and ex tensive works for the refining of steel ; and at the neighbouring town of Rotherham are celebrated iron works, at which aU kinds of articles in cast iron are produced. The Wastes of Yorkshire are very extensive, and about the end of the last century were calculated in the whole at 849,273 acres ; but they have, since that period, being considerably lessened by numerous Inclosure Acts ; ob tained both for the detached wastes, and for parts of the moorlands. The geographical features of the County are strongly marked, and render the whole province one of the most interesting in the kingdom ; parts of the moors in the North Riding rise 1,444 ' feet above the level of the sea, and there are many other highlands and peaks in various parts of the district. The chief Port of the County is HuU, which may be deemed the third in England ; and the ports of the smaller class are those of York, Selby, Goole, Thome, Bridlington, Scarborough, Middlesborough, and Whitby. The Commerce is of a very extensive and diversified character. The foreign and coasting trade is whoUy centred in the above mentioned ports, DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. 19 bnt more particularly in that of HuU, through whioh is poured an immense quantity of manufactured goods, coal, stone, &c., from the West Riding. Corn is exported from Hull, Bridlington, and Scarborough, to London and the collieries of the north ; and from the principal markets of the East and North Ridings, great quantities of grain are sent into the western division of the County. RrvEES. — The principal rivers in Yorkshire are the Ouse, the Swale, the tire, the Wharfe, the Derwent, the Aire, the Calder, the Don, the HuU, the Tees, and the Esk, all of which, except the two last, pour their waters through the great estuary of the Humber. The Tees rises in the mountains of Cumberland and Westmorland, and pursues a serpentine course along the south margin of the County of Dur ham, whioh it divides from the North Riding of Yorkshire throughout the whole extent. It flows through the fine Vale of Teesdale, where it receives several tributary streams, and after passing Barnard Castle, Yarm, and Stockton, faUs into the German Ocean, below the latter town. The Tees is navigable for vessels of sixty tons burthen up to Stockton, but the channel is serpentine and intricate, and the current rapid. Below Stockton the river expands into a large bay about three miles broad. The estuary of the Tees is a place of great safety for vessels in stormy weather. The Swale, which is the next in geographical position, has its source in the western extremity of the North Riding of Yorkshire, and after watering the romantic dale to which it gives name (Swaledale) and passing Richmond and Catterick, it enters the Vale of York, where it receives the smaU river Wiske, and continues its course tiU it joins the Ure at My ton, a few miles below Boroughbridge- The Swale is navigable only for a very few miles. Lam bard, Bede, and other early writers teU us, that Paulinus, the first Arch bishop of York, baptised 10,000 persons in this river in one day, — " by cause at that tyme theare weare no churches or oratories yet buylt." The river is supposed to have been called Suale from the Saxon word Sw.alew, " by reason of the swift course of the same." The Ure or Yore, which is one and the same river with the Ouse, directs its course eastward from its source on the elevated moorland between Yorkr shire and Westmorland, and below Askrigg it forms a remarkably fine water faU called Aysgarth Force. The whole waters faU over a rugged limestone rock into a narrow channel, and form a succession of picturesque waterfaUs. After passing through Middleham, Masham, Ripon, Boroughbridge, and Aldborough, it joins the Swale at Myton, and the united waters then continue their course to about six mUes helow Boroughbridge, where they take the 20 DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. name of the Ouse, from an insignificant rivulet with which they there form a junction. The Ouse, or the Northern Ouse as it is sometimes caUed, to distinguish it from the river of the same name in Buckinghamshire, is formed, as we have just shown, by the union of the Swale and Ure, and runs southward, receiving the waters of the Nidd, at Nun-Monkton ; thence it flows gently to York, where it is joined by the Foss. It bounds the North and West Ei dings from its junction with the Nidd to the City of York, and the East and West Ridings from York to its junction with the Trent. At Nun- Appleton it is increased by the waters of the Wharfe ; and after passing Selby to its successive junctions with the Derwent, the Aire, and the Don, it faUs into the Humber, at its confluence also with the Trent. This fine river is navi gable throughout its whole course, and is the great drain of aU Yorkshire. The Humber. This noble river-^the Thames of the midland and northern counties of England — divides the East Riding of Yorkshire from Lincoln shire during the whole of its course. It is formed, as we have just observed, by the junction of the Ouse and Trent. At Bromfleet it receives the Uttle river Foulness, and roUing its vast coUection of waters eastward, in a stream enlarged to between two and three miles in breadth, washes the town of Hull, where it receives the river of the same name. Opposite to Hedon and Paull, which are a few miles below Hull, the Humber widens into a vast estuary, six or seven miles in breadth, and then directs its course past Great Grimsby, to the German Ocean, which it enters at Spurn Head. No other river system coUeCts waters from so many points, and connects so many important towns, as this noble stream. " The Humber," says a recent writer, " resembling the trunk of a vast tree spreading its branches in every direction, commands, by the numerous rivers which it receives, the navigation and trade of a very extensive and commercial part of England." The Humber is navigable up to Hull for ships of the largest burthen ; the Humber and the Ouse, up to the port of Goole, for vessels drawing not more than sixteen feet of water ; and to York for those of 140 tons burthen. The distance from HuU to York by water is about eighty miles. Above the City of York the Ouse is navigable as far as Boroughbridge, a distance of twenty miles, for barges of thirty tons. The whole course of the Ure, Ouse, and Humber, is about 160 miles. The spring tides rise at HuU more than twenty feet, and at York from two to two and a half feet, but they formerly rose at that place four feet. In 1643, it is recorded that a spring tide at Ouse Bridge rose to the height of five feet. Some of the " land floods" have risen here to a very great height. DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE.. 21 In 1733, the Ouse at York rose in one night nearly nine feet, and filled the streets in the lower parts of the City ; and in December, 1763, the water' rose at the same, place twenty inches higher, and was seventy-five feet above the low water mark of dry seasons. Of the river Humber — the Abus of Ptolemy — that quaint old author, Lambard, writes thus : — " Humber is not the name of any one water within Inglande, but is a name that is gyven to the metinge of many waters, and therfore Lelande contendeth reasouablye that it should be called Aber, which in the Bryttishe is the same that the Saxons and we nowe calle the mouthe of a ryver; for it hathe not the name of Humber tiU it approche^neare Kingston-on-HuU, before- whioh tyme it hathe receyved Ouse, Ure, Done, Trent, Hull water, and some other smal brokes, and so openeth into the sea ; and therfore Humber hathe not as a ryver of itselfe anye begginninge, (as Polydor and others describe) but may wel inoughe be said to begynne withe the head of any of those ryvers which it receyveth. It should seme that Ptolemy ment this ryver when he speaketh of Abus, so callinge the same that the Bryttons caUed Aber. Geffrey of Monmouthe, the leader of our IngUshe Chroniclers, sayeth that it was caUed Humber by occasion^that Locriae, the eldest son of Brutus, chased Humber, the Kinge of the Huunes (that arryved in his country) into this water, wheare he was drowned. Dum fugit obstat ei flumen, submergitur Ulio, Deque suo tribuit nomine nomen aquse. After that the Saxons weare come in great nomber into this lie, they fel at variance among themselves, in so much that Ethelbert, King of Kent, (which receyved Augustine) warringe upon the rest, enlarged his dominion to this water ; herof began the people beyonde the same to be called Northumbers, and their Kingdome Northumberland. This ryver, aud the Thamis, (as Polydor observeth) do not so comonly overflowe their banks, as other waters within the realme, which he imputeth probablye to the qualitie of the ground underneathe, which being gravel soketh muche ; but the cause of the groweth no lesse, by reason that theise twoe waters be not neighboured with so many hUles, as Severn and others be, from which every sodeine rayne descendinge into the ryvers, causeth theim to sweU sodenlye also. The river HuU rises in the Eastern Wolds, near Driffield, and pursues a southern course to the eastward of the town of Beverley, with which it is united by a canal ; and it faUs into the Humber at Kingston-upon-HuU, where it forms a secure but contracted haven. This river serves to drain the whole country between the Wolds and the sea ; and historians tell us 23 DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. that the portion of this river between the Humber and " Sculcotes gote" was originaUy cut by Sayer de Sutton, to drain the Marshes within his lordship of Sutton. In a charter of Richard IL, this part of the river is said to have previously been named Sayer Creek. Mr. Frost, author of Historic Notices of Kingston-upon-HuLl, thinks that the drain caUed Sayer Creek was cut by Sayer de Sutton so early as the reign of King John. The river HuU is navigable to Frodingham Bridge, several miles above Beverley; and thence to Great Driffield by means of a canal. Another canal extends eastward from the river HuU to Leven, a length of about three miles. The Wharfe rises at the foot of the Craven Hills, winds its course through the district of Wharfdale, and passing Tadeaster, joins the Ouse at Nun- Appleton. It is navigable as far as Tadeaster. The Derwent has its head in the Eastern Moorlands, in the North Riding, within about four mUes of the sea. After running in a Une almost parallel with the coast to the foot of the Wolds, it takes a westerly direction tiU it receives the Rye, from Helmsley ; thence by Malton, Gate-Helmsley, and Stamford Bridge, to the Ouse, near Barmby, from which it is navigable for y o vessels of twenty-five tons burthen, to Malton, and abgve which town the navigation has been continued to Yedingham Bridge, a further distancie of about nine miles. From its junction with the smaU river Hartford, near its source, the Derwent divides the North and East Ridings till it approaches near Stamford Bridge, where it enters the East Riding. The Aire, one of the most considerable rivers in Yorkshire, takes its rise in some wild moors near Malham, in the north west quarter of the West Riding, and runs past Skipton and Bingley to Leeds. Twelve miles below the latter town, near Oastleford, it receives the Calder, and passing Snaith, it joins the Ouse three miles south west of Howden, a Uttle below Armin. The Aire becornes navigable at Leeds, where it forms a junction with the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. Camden says, the course of the Aire is so ex tremely crooked, that he crossed it seven times in travelUng half an hour in a straight line. The Calder rises on the eastern border of Lancashire, not far from Burnley, and pursues an eastjvard course through Todmorden vaUey, to Wakefield ; it then turns to the north tUl it joins the Aire, at Oastleford. In 1758, an Act was passed for extending the navigation of the Calder to Sowerby bridge, in the parish of Halifax, and for making the Hebble navi gable from Brooksmouth to Salterhebble Bridge. In 1825, an Act was passed for making a cut from this canal at Salterhebble, to Bailey HaU, near HaUfax. This river is connected with various canals, which form a water communi. DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. 23 cation across the kingdom from HuU to Liverpool, as well as a junction between the eastern and western seas. The Don has its source in the western moors beyond Penniston, and flows by Sheffield, Rotherham, Doncaster, and RawcUffe Bridge, to Goole, where it faUs into the Ouse. In its course it is joined by the Hodbeck, the Wente, the Rother, and other tributaries, and by several canals. The lower part of the channel of the Don, from the vicinity of Snaith, is artificial, and is usually called the Dutch river. In 1751 this river was made navigable to Tinsley, three miles below Sheffield ; and by an Act of Parliament passed in 1815, this navigation has been continued by a cut, caUed the Tinsley Canal, to Sheffield. The Esk has many sources in the centre of the Eastern Moorland dales, and flowing eastward, receives various streams, untU it faUs into the North Sea at Whitby, dividing that town into two nearly equal parts, which are connected by a draw-bridge. On the 17th July, 1761, the spring tides rose and feU here four times in less than half an hour. The Foss rises near Craike Castle, and joins the Ouse at York. The channel of this river is believed to have been originaUy formed by the Ro mans, to effect the drainage of an extensive level tract lying between the Ouse and the Howardian HUls, near the western extremity of which it has its source. Leland, in enumerating the rivers which water the forest of Galtres, says, " The Fosse, a slow stream, yet able to bear a good vessel, ryseth in neraore Calaterio, or amongst the woody hills now called Galtres Forest, and in its descent from the highest ground, leaveth Crayke on the west side, thence it goeth by Marton Abbey, Marton, StiUington, FarUngton, Towthorpe, Erswick, Huntingdon, &c., at York into the Ouse." The Nidd rises in Netherdale, and passing by Knaresborough, enters the Ouse at Nun-Monkton. The Canals of Yorkshire are numerous, but are chiefly in the West Riding ; and the County is so intersected by Railways, that there are few towns or good viUages without a railway station. There are 420 miles of raUway in the West Riding, and the land occupied by raUways is 5,392 acres. It appears from a return recently issued by the railway companies in England and Wales, that the total acreage of the parishes through which the various railways pass, is 9,177,190 ; and the acreage of the land occupied by the raUways is 65,047, or 0.71 per cent. The aggregate length of raUway in the various parishes is 5,637 miles ; and the average quantity of land occupied per mile of railway, is 11.58 acres. There is one mile of railway to every 163,802 acres of land. 84 DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. Antiquities. — Besides the Roman remains which are noticed at subsequent pages, the most remarkable antiquities exist in the reUcs of ancient Castles and reUgious edifices. The only remains of Roman structures now to be seen at York are the polygonal tower, and the south waU of the Mint Yard. Boman urns have been discovered in several situations near the stations and roads of that people ; and a vast variety of Roman antiquities have, at dif ferent times, been found in York and its vicinity, such as altars, sepulchral and other urns, sarcophagi, coins, signets, &c. Many ancient tumuli are discernable in various parts of the County, particularly on the Wolds ; and besides the Roman encampments, others of the Saxons and the Danes may be traced in several places in the North and West Ridings. Near Borough-- bridge are three gigantic obelisks of single stones, commonly called the Devil's Arrows, by some thought to be Druidical, and by others supposed to be of Boman origin. About nine miles north west of Ripon is a remarkable assemblage of rocks called Bramham Craggs, which are conjectured to have been a Druidical temple. The chief remains of ancient Castles or Fortresses are CUfford's Tower at York; and iu the West Riding, the Castles of Conisbrough, Harewood, Knaresborough, Pontefract, Great SandaU, Skipton, and TickhiU ; in the North Riding, the Castles of Helmsley, Malton, Middleham, Mulgrave, Pickering, Richmond, Scarborough, Sheriff Hutton, Skelton, and GUling; and in the East Riding, Wressell Castle, near Howden. There are Ukewise several ancient mansions in different parts of the County, but now converted into farm houses. , The number of ancient Religious Houses, or Monastic Institutions, in the County was, according to Benton's Monasticon Eboracense, 14 Abbeys, 44 Priories, 7 Alien Priories, 13 Cells, and 23 Friaries of various Orders. The beautiful and picturesque ruins of many of them denote their former splen dour. The principal ruins of Abbeys are those of St. Mary's at York ; Fountains, Roche, KirkstaU, and Selby, in the West Riding ; and Byland, Rievaulx, Easby, Eggleston, and Whitby, in the North Riding, The chief ruins of Priories are those of Bolton and Knaresborough, in the West Riding ; Guisborough, Mountgrace, and Wykeham, in the North Riding ; and Brid lington, Kirkham, and Watton, in the East Riding. Mineral Springs, dc. — The chalybeate and sulphureous springs of Hano- gcde are of great celebrity. They were discovered in 1571, and have rendered that once obscure hamlet one of the principal watering places in England; •The springs of Askeme, about eight mUes north of Doncaster, much resemble those of Harrogate, both in smeU and taste, but differ from them in theii- DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. 23 •operation. The chalybeate and saline springs of Scarborough, discovered early in the 17th century, have long been celebrated ; and there is also a famous chalybeate spring at Biidlington Quay. There are, besides, mineral springs of various qualities at Aldfield, Boston Spa, Gilthwaite, Horley Green, Ilkley, and Knaresborough, in the West Riding ; and at Malton, in the North Riding. A mineral spring was discovered near Guisborough, in May, 1833, the waters of which are diuretic. At Knaresborough is the celebrated Dropping and Petrifying Well ; and at the bottom of Giggleswick Scar, near the viUage of Giggleswick, is a spring which ebbs and flows at irregular periods. On the Wolds, and near Cottingham, on their eastern side, are periodical springs, which sometimes emit very powerful streams of water for a few months successively, and then become dry for years. Amongst the most remarkable Waterfalls in the County are Thornton Force, near the viUage of Ingleton, in the West Riding, and in the vicinity of Thornton Scar, a tremendous cliff of about 300 feet in height. The Force is formed by a small stream, which is driven down a precipice of about ninety feet in height. The cataract of Malham Cove, which is 800 feet high ; and Aysgarth Force ; Hardrow Fall ; High Force, in the Tees ; Mallin Spout ; Egton ; and Mossdale FaU ; all in the North Riding. There are several curious Caves, which may be classed among the natural curiosities of the County ; of which, that near Ingleton, among the Craven mountains ; Yordas Cave and Weathercote Cave, in the latter of which is a stupendous cataract of sixty feet fall ; Hurtlepot and Ginglepot, near the head of the subterranean river Wease, or Greta ; and Donk Cave, near the foot'of Ingleborough, are the principal. In the same neighbourhood, at the foot of the mountain Pennigant, are two frightful orifices called Hulpit and Huntpit Holes, through each of which runs a subterraneous brook, about a mUe in length, and emerging, one at Dowgill Scar, and the other at Bransil Head. Franchise, Sc. — Previous to the year 1833, when the Reform Bill became the law of the land, Yorkshire returned to Parliament two members for the County, and two each for the Boroughs of Aldborough, Beverley, Borough bridge, Hedon, Kingston-upon-HuU, Knaresborough, New Malton, North aUerton, Pontefract, Richmond, Ripon, Scarborough, Thirsk, and York. Under that Act two members are returned for each of the three Ridings ; the Boroughs of Aldborough, Boroughbridge, and Hedon, were disfranchised ; those of NorthaUerton and Thirsk were deprived of one member each ; Bradford, HaUfax, Leeds, and Sheffield, were granted two members each ; and Huddersfield, Whitby, and Wakefield, one member each ; so that there E gg DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. are now in Yorkshire seven new, and eleven old, ParUamentary Boroughs, which, with two memhers each for the three Ridings, returns no less than thirty seven Members to Parliament. Yorkshire is included in the Northern Circuit. The Assises are held in York, where is the County Gaol ; the Quarter Sessions for the North Ri4ing are held at NorthaUerton ; for the East Riding, at Beverley ; the Easter Quarter Sessions for the West Riding, at Pontefract; the Midsummer, at Skipton, adjourned to Bradford and Rotherham ; the Michaelmas, at Knares borough, adjourned to Leeds and Sheffield ; and the Christmas Sessions, at Wetherby, adjourned to Wakefield and Doncaster. The Inhabitants of Yorkshire are social, humane, industrious, frugal, and enUghtened ; and the familiarity that prevaUs amongst the different grade? of society is an admirable trait in their character. 'The Yorkshire temple cf fame records a numerous list pf worthies, eminent in charity, Uterature, the arts and sciences, and in amis ; most of whom are noticed in the histories of the towns and parishes where they were respectively born or flourished. GEOLOGY. — Geology is by no means to be regarded as an isolated depart ment of knowledge, but rather as a union of aU those sciences which have for their object the study of nature, and the perfections of her Divine Author. Geology, as a science, offers a lucid reading of the struotiire of our globe. From the magnitude and importance of the great objects which it contem plates, it may be considered in grandeur and extent as inferior to none of the natural sciences ; whilst in the varied and .attractive character of its inves tigations, it wfll be found to surpass them aU. " Geology," says a learned writer, " may be defined to be the enquiry into the natural history of the earth, extending through the animal, vegetable, and mineral kingdoms; and comprising, in its investigations, all time, past, present, a,nd to come,. TJie present explains to us the past ; the past and present reveal to us the future. The examination into existing geological phenomena enables us to under stand those which have occurred in past periods of our earth's history, to' interpret nature by natural laws, and to appreciate agencies and results which are obscure a,nd remote, by a comparison with such as are famUia): and weU known ; whUe the study, both of tli^ past and present, empower^ us to deduce ipre^a,ges of the future, and to infer the nature of those changes which may occur on the surface of our planet in future eras of its history. It may be described, in fine, as an investigation -pf the striicture of thei earth, and of the animals an(i vegetables which have existed on its surface," The science pf geology is in perfect h^rmpny with Divine Revelation, and the fears which mapy well ipeaning persons entertain of the possibility of a DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. 27 collision between them, are groundless. In aU essential points, the records of Scripture are completely confirmed by the evidence of physical fact. So far from lessening our belief in the deity, or our perception of His attributes, this admirable science tends materially to enhance and confirm our appre ciation of both. In the Book of Genesis — the most ancient historical record in the world — Moses, who was, doubtless, inspired by God, records the creation of the world, and the origin of man, with an account of the great events antecedent to the existence of man. " In the beginning God created the heavens arid the earth," is the simple but beautiful and sublime preface, which the great in structor and law giver of the Hebrew people sets in front of all his doctrines, laws and ordinances. Moses then proceeds to detail in order the works of the six days creation — how, on the first, God made the light ; on the second, the firmament of heaven ; on the third, the sea and fke dry land, with plants, herbs, and fruit ; on the fourth, the sun, moon, and stars ; and the fifth, the Uving creatures that move in the waters, and fly in the air ; on the sixth, the living creatures that inhabit the earth, and amongst them, last in the order of time, but first in the grand scale of creation, man. Such, in brief, is the sacred writer's account of the creation — the only true, the only rational cosmogony that ever has been given. With the clearness of one who was thoroughly master of his subject ; with the modest confidence of one who knew he was speaking the truth, he dispatches in one short chapter many physical questions which have furnished matter of speculation to the thought ful in all subsequent ages, and upon which, probably, they would be thinking, ahd thinking to the end of time to no purpose, had not Moses giveri us the true system of Ahe world in this one short chapter. In it the student of theology finds the fundamental principles of all reUgion, tealching him to look up from nature to nature's God ; and in it the student of nature finds epito mised in a few verses, the geology, and the botany and the zoology, and the astronomy of the physical world. Whether the Mosaic account of the creation be a complete systerii of the world, or only an outline, or how far as an outline it may or may not- be full — be this as it may, one thing is certain — that any thing contained in Scripture, is not, cannot be, at variance with any fact in nature, or with the coriclusions of sound philosophy ; and this because the Scripture is the word of God and must be true. Scientific enquirers, assuming the mantle of philosophy, have expended a vast amount of labour in order to shew that there exists discreparicies, nay, positive contradictions, between science and Revelation, and they have simply succeeded in shocking the world with their crude theories, as revolting to its sense an* reason as they are 28 DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. offensive to God's truth. To make philosophers was not the province of Moses, and had he used the exact terms of science he could not have been understood. It was not to give mankind an insight into the arcana of nature, though he does do so, that he penned his history of creation. No, his aim was to enlighten man in the knowledge of the one Supreme Being, their origin and destiny, their hopes and duties — to make men true beUevers, not adepts in philosophy. If questions or facts coming within the province of science are sometimes introduced, it is incidentally, and as they fall in with the main design of the sacred narrator. But when Moses, or any of the other sacred writers, introduces a physical fact, the student in science may be certain that it is historically and physically true — it cannot be at variance with any other fact in history or nature — it must be in strict accordance with the laws of nature, unless it be intimated that it is miraculous. How is it that people have stumbled upon the pretended contradictions between Scripture and science ? The sense put upon a particular text of Scrip ture may be true, and the man of science opposes to it a false theory ; there is a contradiction, but the contradiction is between the true sense of Scripture and a false phUosophy ; or the sense put upon a particular text of Scripture may be false, and the theory opposed to it true ; and there is a second con tradiction, but the contradiction now is between a false sense of Scripture and a true philosophy ; or again, the interpretation of the Scripture may be false, and the theory opposed to it false ; and there is a third contradiction, but this third contradiction is between a false sense of Scripture and a false philosophy. But between the true sense of Scripture setting forth any thing for a fact in nature, and true philosophy, there never can be a contradiction, because truth is one and cannot contradict itself. It is of. the utmost ad vantage in the pursuit of scientific truth to be able to rest on Divine Reve lation, if happily it should say anything on the subject under consideration ; but that it should lead us straightway into the penetralia of science ; that it should lay open to us all the arcana of nature — that is what we have no right to expect — it would be a most extravagant expectation ; it would be to revive a long abandoned chimera, to look for the philosopher's stone in the Scripture. Moses does not enter into the details of the natural sciences, nor investigate the particular causes that produce the visible phenomena of nature ; but happily for the cause of philosophical as well as sacred truth, he dwelt so far upon the origin and order of this fair world, that we may say with truth that his master-hand has sketched the outline of the sciences, which the researches of future ages can do no more than fill up. As has been intimated, all the physical sciences have their proper bearings DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. 29 on Revelation, especially in the first chapter of Genesis. And this is what might be expected, for between God's word and His works there must needs exist a perfect harmony. As the opening chapter of Genesis records that ordering of the world which was to regulate it to the end of time, the actual working of the vast machine throughout all its parts should be found to harmonise with the great plan of creation sketched by Moses ; and therefore physical facts and physical laws, which are but the generalizations of such facts, and the physical sciences, which are but facts and laws reduced to a system, should one and aU be found to accord with the order of the world as delineated in the first chapter of Genesis. The connexion, then, between physical science and Revelation is obvious, and the science of geology deserves particular notice, holding, as it does, a prominent place in the Biblical questions arising out of the history of the creation. Geology likewise possesses an interest pecu liarly its own, for it opens up to view, from under our feet, a world peopled by the generations of long past ages, the discovery of which excited and excites a great degree of wonder. The startling nature of the discoveries made by geology, have gained for it an interest greater than any other of the sister sciences have been able to command ; though, perhaps, on no other branch of science have the learned propounded theories more opposed to each other. " Of all the sciences,'' writes a high authority, "none has been more given up to the devices of man's heart and imagination than geology ; none has afforded ampler scope for ideal theories and brittle though brilliant systems, constructed for the most conflicting purposes." According to Buffon, this world was first a fragment of the sun, detatched from that central body by the coUision of a comet, and that briUiant author developes his theory with singular abUity ; but whence came the sun and the comet, without which he could not construct his theory, he omits altogether to inform us. Then we have the theories of the Plutoniaus, as one class of geologists is called, and of the Neptunians, which is another, and the nebular hypothesis, to account for the earth's crust. The earth, says the Plutonian, was at first one vast ocean of Uquid fire, which graduaUy cooled down until the surface was at length solidified into the earth's crust. No, says the Neptunian, the earth was at first invested with one universal chaotic ocean, holding the materials of all rocks in solution, from the waters of which they were by-and-bye precipitated. No, says a third, all space was at first filled with atoms of etherial matter, after a time condensed into nebulse, which nebulae were further condensed into the sun, the stars, and the planets, of which last the earth underwent a cooUng process to fit it for 30 DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. becoming what it is, the habitation of organized beings. Differing thus widely, our world buUders are perfectly agreed in one thing— they assuine the materials of the world as pre-existing, and ready at hand for each one to fashion the world out of them according to his own peculiar fancy-^they condemn Moses of ignorance of phUosophy. He says nothing of the igneous origin of the earth, says the Plutonian; he maintains a profound silence about the original sedimentary deposition of the earth's crust, says the Nep tunian; he knew nothing about the nebular hypothesis, says a third; he was quite in the dark about the origin of things, say all three — he and his creation were ages behind the true date of the world's creation — he knew nothing about geology. So our geologists differ, and so they agree; and so they went on piling hypothesis upon hypothesis, theory upon theory, and system upon system. So rapidly has systems of geology come forth, and vanished one after another, that, in 1806, the French Institute counted so many as eighty and upwards. But what are the main facts of geology, in so far as they bear on the first chapter of the book of Genesis ? That portion of the exterior of the earth called its crust, is not more than ten miles in a vertical line, or about one eight-hundredth part of the earth's diameter. And this is the domain of geology. This crust is composed of a series of concentric layers, resembUng the coats of an onion, with this difference, that the coats of the onion invest its nucleus qdite around, whereas the layers or strata of the earth, though extending sometimes hundreds of mUes in a horizontal direction, do not encompass it perfectly. Pursuing their beds in a vertical direction, we find them marked by very distinct mineral characters, from the half indurated clay, through chalk, oolite, sandstone, coal, down to the granite rocks, the lowest in the series, and unstratified. We find them also distiriguished for their fossil contents, for they contain, though not all of them, the remains of plants and animals, aquatic and terrestrial, in a rather regular order of superposition. In the uppermost strata we meet with the remains of plants and animals of species now inhabiting the earth, with here and there, though at very few points, the fossilized remains of man. , Lower down we come upon mammifera bearing analogy to extant animals, but of species considered to be now extinct. StiU lower down we meet with strange quadrupeds, the mastodon, the paleotherium, and other strange creatures, with stranger names ; then gigantic reptUes and monstrous birds ; and beneath them the remains of oceanic creatures, the cetacea, fish, moUusci, in an order, gene raUy speaking, the inverse of the scale of organization, if we proceed from above downwards ; the most perfectly organized occupying the superior, the DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. 31 least, the inferior strata. Moreover, immense masses of rock, composed of the debtis of marine sheUfish, are found in every possible situation, even at very great heights above the level of the ocean — at an elevation of 8,000 or 9,000 feet in the Alps and Pyrenees, of over 13,000 feet in the Andes, and 16,000 feet in the Himalayas — and these indestructible monuments of former ruin remain to attest the sovereignty of the ocean over the now dry land, even where it is a great distance from, and elevated high above, its swelling tide. Such are the leading facts of geology bearing on the Mosaic history of creation. Some of our geologists teU us that if we examine the pages of the great book of nature spread out under our feet ; if we know how to decypher its characters and interpret its language, we shaU find it directly at issue with the history of the creation by Moses ; for, say they, Moses assigns to this world a duration of not more than about six thousand years, whereas this genuine record, inscribed on the earth's surface, furnishes incontrovertible evidence that the world must have ezisted ages upon ages before the very brief space of time assigned by Moses as the period of its duration. In answer to this it might be observed that the ablest geologists, De Luc, Kir- wan, Andrie, Brocchi, Bucldand, Constant, Prevost, and others, deny there is any disprepancy between the Mosaic narrative and geological discoveries. But suppose geological phenomena are inexplicable, on the assumption that the world has existed only 6,000 years ; suppose the anipials whose remains are entombed in the earth, were its Uving inhabitants, Ipng long ages before the existence of man, stiU the great antiquity of the world is perfectly com- P3.tible with the truth of the Mosaic narrative. That only about 6,000 years have elapsed since the creation of man is clearly deducible from the chro nology pf Moses ; but that only 6,000 years have roUed over this earth since first it came frpm, nothing into existence, is what Moses nowhere clearly says, nor is it clearly deducible from anything he says. Saving the entire truth pf his narrative, there is roorn for an antiquity of the world as high as any geologist may require, which Moses neither affirms nor denies ; for we must oliserve that, after recording, in the first verse of Genesis, the siinple primeval act pf caUing forth the rude matter of the world frpm nothing into actual existence, he then, without aUuding, as it was beside his purpose, to the changes it underwent for ages and ages, if sijch there were, passes on at once to the ordering of the world as it now is, to render it a fit habitation fpr man. These two great epochs in the world's history, the creation from nothing and the present disposition pf its parts, it was mpst material that Moses sheuld mark out distinctly ; — ^the creation from nothing. 32 DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. because otherwise he would have been silent about one half of the substance of the great act of creation, and mankind might have been ignorant of the World's origin, or might have thought it eternal; the present disposition of the earth to render it a fit habitation for man, because it was intimately connected with the origin and history of man. But between these two great epochs of the world, its original creation from nothing, and its present order, for aught that Moses says to the contrary, there may have intervened (and probably has) an indefinitely long period of time, during which the already created materials of the world may have undergone various modifications, and different races of beings, adapted to the then condition of the earth, may have had their existence. With this indefinitely long period of time, if such there ever was, Moses had nothing to do, and therefore is sUent about it ; but he, by no means denies there was such a period, unless his sUence be taken for an equivalent denial, which it is not. He is silent upon the question whether the moon is inhabited ; yet who impeaches either his inspiration or veracity because he does not say " yes" or " no" to that very interesting question ? So, we find that without offending in the least against the Mosaic narrative, we may hold that between the first creation from nothing, and the ordering of the world as it now is, there was a vast interval of time concerning which, be cause it did not come within the scope of his history, Moses was silent ; and so, should geological phenomena require it, the geologist may assign to the world an antiquity as high as he pleases, by taking the days of creation to mean indefinite and immensely long periods of time — an interpretation war ranted by the usage of Scripture itself, in which the word day sometimes signifies an indeterminate space of time. Indeed, in the very context under consideration, the word " day" occurs in a sense different from its ordinary acceptation. The three first days of creation would not appear to be days in the ordinary sense of the word — days of twenty-four hours each — ^measured by the real or apparent motions of the heavenly bodies, because it was not until the fourth day that the sun was made to rule the day, and the moon to rule the night. St. Augustine, in his work on Genesis says, " we must not boldly judge of the nature of the days of creation, nor affirm they were like those of which an ordinary week is composed ;" and in his work called the City of God, he observes, "It is very difficult, or rather impossible, to im agine, much more to say, what is the nature of those days." - Professor PhUlips, in his Illustrations of the Geology of Yorkshire, after having considered the intemal structure of our planet, and shewn how the rocks succeed one another in a fixed order, and rise successively to the sur- DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. 33 face ; and how variously they are filled with the monumental reliquiae of organic beings Which existed during the remote ages ; and also examined the effects of convulsions within the solid substances of the earth, then directs his attention to the external features of the earth, and observes that, " though it cannot be supposed that, by investigation of its present appearance, we should be able to determine completely its former condition, enough is known to assure us that after the earth was dried and made habitable, its whole surface was again submerged and overwhelmed by an irresistible flood. Of many important facts which come rinder the consideration of geologists." continues this great authority, " the Delv^/e is, perhaps, the most remarkable j and it is established by such clear and positive arguments, that if any one point of natural history may be considered as proved, the deluge must be admitted to have happened, because it has left fuU evidence in plain and characteristic effects, upon the surface of the earth." After referring to the mistakes which geologists made respecting fossil sheUs and other organic remains, when the science was in its infancy, the Professor aUudes to the visible traces of this great catastrophe — to the whole earth being covered by pebbles, the wreck of that Universal Deluge. " FUUng the vallies," he writes, " over-spreading the plains, and covering the hills, rounded stones, of all sizes and aU kinds, mixed together in as much confusion as pebbles on the sea-shore (fragments of aU the known rocks which compose the interior of the earth) are profusely scattered on its surface." And referring to the visible traces of the flood in the north of England, he says, " it is impossible to ac-" count for the vast heaps of this gravel, by supposing that it might be laid in its present situation by any streams such as now water the earth. For it occurs abundantly in places where streams do not run, where, indeed, they never did run ; neither is it confined to such narrow paths as serve for the passage of rivers, nor is it laid in such forms, but it is casuaUy and equaUy spread over all the face of the country. The blocks of stone which have been thus roUed from their native sites, are, in some cases, of so vast a mag-' nitude, and have been so strangely carried, even a hundred miles or more, over hiU and dale, that in vain do we think to assign any other cause for the phenomena, than a great body of water moving upon the earth. With regard to the force of this water, various facts, which have faUen under my repeated examination, may give some idea. On Shap feUs, in Westmorland, a reddish granite is well known, and its blocks are at once recognised by large inter spersed crystals of felspar. Now, by the force of the great currents of waterj blocks of this granite have been scattered over a large tract of country to the South, where masses, some tous in weight, rest on high ground near Sedbergh J 34 DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. and, when the Lancaster Canal was made, such were found of great size in deep cutting, near the town of Lancaster. Eastward, this granite has been carried by other currents of the same water, over the deep vale of Eden, and the lofty range of hills which extend along the western border of Yorkshire and Durham, across Stainmoor Forest, down the vaUies of Durham, and the northern dales of Yorkshire, across the Vale of York, and the hiUs of the eastern point of the County, to Scarborough and Flamborough Head, where it rests on the summit of the cliff one hundred miles from its ancient situation. This is one of many instances. The dispersion of sienitic rocks from Car- rock fell, Cumberland, of granite from Ravenglass, and of whinstone from Teesdale, is not less remarkable. Such facts cannot be seen without asto nishment, nor contemplated without fuU conviction. As to the height of this flood in our own country, the sides of Ingleborough, on which rest fragments of rocks transported from Keswick ; the brow of Stainmoor, whioh supports large masses of granite ; and the top of Carrock fell, from which so large a quantity of sienite has been removed, demonstrate that our proudest hUls were overflowed ; and as to the extent, all countries acknowledge the wide-spreading visitation; — the Deluge covered the whole earth." Geology, independent of Scripture, renders it certain that the Deluge hap pened after the stratification of the earth was completed ; and after parts of the earth were dry and inhabited by land animals — for in gravel accumulated by the flood, and in caves we find fragments of every known rock, and the bones of multitudes of creatures which have been extinct for some thousands of years, and whose living analogues dwell only in distant and different countries. " Cold as our climate, and now utterly unfit to maintain the existence of such animals,'' says Mr. Phillips, "the time has been, if we rightly understand the history of the earth, when elephants and hippopotami, tigers and hysenas, lived here (in England) together, and here together met the common doom of aU the inhabitants of the earth, destruction by over flowing water. And not inconsiderable was the number thus destroyed ; for almost every gravel-pit, and dUuvial cliff, and Umestone cavern, abound with their remains ; some of which by their unusual proportions, indicate the gigantic size and formidable strength of antediluvian quadrupeds. By comparing them with existing species, we are enabled to conjecture the antedUuvian condition of the world, with what vegetables it was clothed, and with what climate it was blessed. No scope need be given to fancy, the truth of analogy, the known conformity of nature, are sure guides to the geologist.": Another question arising out of this magnificent subject is, were any, and DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. 35 what changes in the surface of our planet were occasioned by these devasta ting waters? Was the antediluvian earth diversified by the same hUls, vaUeys, precipices, and cliffs, as we now behold, or was all this beautiful variety of surface occasioned by that flood, or is it the result of subsequent causes ? In reply to this question, the authority already quoted, says, " No one can doubt that great alterations were occasioned in the features of the earth's surface, at the period of the Deluge, who considers the extensive tracts formed of the diluvial detritus. All the solid land of Holderness is an ac cumulation of this kind, from the ruins of other parts of England and Scot land, and perhaps Norway. If hiUs were known before the flood, their present pecuUar shapes must be dated from that event ; and if valleys were then in existence, they must have been deepened .and widened, or possibly fiUed up and obliterated. But that the whole antediluvian surface of the world was even and uniform, is altogether improbable. For, to a very con siderable extent, the great features of the earth's surface are determined by pecuUarities in its internal construction. Its highest ranges of mountains are composed of one set of rocks, but its widely extended plains are based on another. Obviously, therefore, these great distinctions are not only antedi luvian, but aboriginal." It can hardly be doubted that many of our fine valleys were formed by the action of the waters of the Deluge, by being excavated through several strata, as limestone, clay, and sandstone, which appear on the opposite sides in most .exact agreement as to thickness, composition, and mode of arrange ment ; or that such rocks were originally deposited in continued plains, and therefore, once connected across the chasm or vaUey which now divides- them. Valleys of this description, cut out of the plains of the consohdated strata, are numerous and extensive. In Yorkshire, the great mining valleys of Teesdale, Swaledale, Yoredale, and Wharfdale, and the vallies of the Derwent, below Malton, Rievaulx, and Bilsdale, above Helmsley, Newton Dale above Pickering, and Hackness near Scarborough, are remarkable and beautiful instances. Yorkshire affords interesting fields of study to the student in geology. Along the middle of the County, from north to south, runs a wide level vale, filled with gravel deposited on the upper red sandstone. Towards the west rises from beneath, an elevated undulated tract of carboniferous and calca reous rocks, whioh ascend to the summits of MicklefeU, Ingleborough, and Pendle Hill ; whilst above, on the east, appear the uniform ranges of the chalk-oolite. The hiUy tract towards the west is grouped into two portions — the district south of the river .Aire, in which, generaUy, sandstones and shales DESCEIPTION OF YOEKSHIEE. with coal abound ; and the region north of that river, whose romantic dales are sunk into the mountain limestone, and whose hiUs are capped by the lower members of the coal series. The following Tabular View of the Series of Yorkshire Strata is extracted from Professor PhiUips's work, " IUustrations of the Geology of Yorkshire," published in 1829 ; to which work we are indebted for much that is valuable in this essay. Chalk formation. Clay vale formation (Smith) Coralline oolite formation. Utmost tliickness. feet l_Wbite Chalk 500/ The Wold Hills, from Flam- 2— Eed Chalk 3— Gault? . 4 — Kimmeridge clay . . . . 5 — Upper calcareous grit 150 60 60 6 — Coralline oolite , . 7 — Lower calcareous grit . 8— Oxford Clay 150 80 9 — Kelloways rock Bath oolite formation. Lias formation. New red sandstone formation (Werner). Carboniferous formation. Slate formation. ¦¦10 — Cornbrash limestone. . . . 11 — Upper sandstone, shale, and coal 13 — Impure limestone (oolite of Bath) 13 — Lower sandstone, shale, and coal 14 — ^Ferruginous beds (infe rior oolite of Somerset shire) 40 5 200 30 500 5 \ borough to Hessle. ¦ Speeton, Knapton, Kirby. Moorside, Helmsley, Set- trington, EUoughton. Silpho Brow, Sinnington, Wass Bank. Scarborough Castle, Pickering, Malton. Scarborough Castle, Hamble ton End, Malton, Leavening. Scarborough Castle, Saltergate Brow, Eievaulx Abbey. Scarborough Castle, Hackness, Eievaulx Abbey. Gristhorpe, Scarborough. Gristhorpe, Scalby. Gristhorpe, White Nab, Clough- . ton Wyke, Hawsker. ' Clough ton. Peak, Burton Head, &o. 60 Peak, Whitby, Boulby, Cleveland Hills. the 15- 16- -Upper Has shale 200 -Marlstone series .... Cliffs near Whitby, HUls near Guisborough, &c. Cliffs near Staiths, Head of Billsdale, Eston Nab, &c. Eobin Hood's Bay, Bonlby, Eedcar. '18 — Eed marl and red 1 thickness f Yarm, Boroughbridge, and sandstone f unknown \ Ferrybridge. ^ Brotherton limestone . . 45 From Brotherton to Doncaster. 1 7 — Lower lias shale . 150 500 19 Eed clay and gypsum Magnesian limestone (20—1 -^21—: 50 Fairburn, Knottingley. 120 Catterick, Knaresborough, Doncaster, &c. Coal measures 2000 Leeds, Bamsley, Sheffield. ¦Mountain limestone ge- lo^nnl Swaledale, Yoredale, and ries ^2000 { Wharfdale. 22 — Slate rocks,, thickness unknown Ingleton, Sedbergh, GENEKAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIRE. The Gaelic or Celtic race are said to have overflowed the continent of Europe, from the farthest shores of Ireland to the banks of the Danube at an early period of the world's history, and it is the opinion of those who have most elaborately examined the question, that several tribes of these GalUc Celts, had settled in Britain, fully a thousand years before the Christian era. Besides the testimony of the best ancient writers, the geographical position of Gaul and Britain, and the resemblance of manners and customs, we have the clear and strong testimony of language to prove the one people to have sprung from the other. The Celtic language, though in divided portions, is stiU known amongst us. One branch of it, caUed the Gaelic, is spoken by- the native Irish, by the Scottish Highlanders, and in the Isle of Man ; the other was formerly current in CornwaU, and is still spoken in Wales and in Lower Brittany.* The whole of the southern coast of Britain appears to have been peopled before its more northern or the midland districts had been penetrated. As the descendants of the original settlers increased in number, and new bands of emigrants, or as they have been technically termed, waves of population, successively arrived from the mother country, the backwoods were gradually cleared, tiU at length the whole island became inhabited. The early Greek writers knew little of Western Europe, and Herodotus, who wrote in the middle of the fifth century before the coming of Christ, had but an indistinct notion of the British Isles, under the general term of Cassi- * The language in which Adam and Eve spoke is a subject of controversy among the learned, and there is scarcely any eastern tongue whioh has not aspired to the honour of being the original language. The majority of critics, however, decide for the He brew, or its cognate, the Arabic. The Hebrew is likely the oldest, but it is now con siderably altered by time, by the captivity, and the subsequent dispersion of the people who spoke it. The first language appears to have remained unchanged until the con fusion of tongues at the buUding of the Tower of Babel, for aooording to Genesis xi. 1., " the earth was of one tongue, and of the same speech." This confusion of tongues and the dispersion of the human race gave rise to various dialects, whioh are now multiplied beyond numljeriDg. 38 GENEEAl HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. terides, or the Tin Islands, as the grand source from which the Phoenicians derived their supply of that metal. The earliest mention of our islands by their names, is made by the philosopher Aristotle, who Uved a century later than Herodotus. In aUuding to the ocean without the PiUars of Hercules, (the straits of Gibraltar) he teUs us there were " two islands, which are very large, Albion and Jerne, caUed the Britannic, which lie beyond the Celtse." Polybius, another Greek historian, who wrote about 150 years before the Christian era, speaks of the " Britannic Isles," but adds nothing to our knowledge of them. He tells us that from a very early period of the history of the world, the Phoenician merchants obtained their supply of tin (an article in use as far back as the time of Homer) from Britain. As this rfctetal is found chiefly in CornwaU and the Scilly Islands, the parts of Britain which would first present themselves to the navigators from the Phoenician port on the coast of Spain, Gaderia, or Gades (the modern Cadiz) would be these places and the south of Ireland. Another Greek writer, Diodorus Siculus, informs us that the tin was carried from the district in which it was found, to an island " in front of Britain," named Ictis, apparently the Isle of Wight, where it was purchased by native merchants, who transported it to Gaul, and it was then carried overland on pack horses, a journey of thirty days, to the mouth of the Rhone. If we except the aUusions made to the trade in tin, by the early Greek writers, everything relating to this distant region, almost unconnected with the world as then known, was wrapped in mystery, and continued so until the veil was at length drawn aside by the ambition of Julius Csesar. Ireland is supposed to have been peopled (at least in part) from the coasts of the west of Britain, at the same time that the aboriginal Celts emigrated to England. Three, at least, of the tribes who held the eastern coast of Ireland, the Brigantes, the Menapii, and the Voluntii, were, no doubt, colonies from the opposite shores of Britain. Ireland, known to the Eo mans by the names of Hibernia and Juverna, appears to have been tolerably well known in the age of Ptolemy, who gives us a description of its coasts, and enumerates the tribes and towns both in the maritime districts and 'in the interior. It was to one of the Celtic hands of foreign invaders, who inhabited Ireland, that the epithet Scots was first applied. Different interpretations of this word have been given, but the most probable is the same with the modem Gaelic term Scuit or Scaoit, signifying a " wandering horde." From Ireland a branch of the Scots passed over into Scotland, and eventually gave their name to that country ; though a part of it had long before been peopled by the GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 39 Caledonians or Cavilldaoin, that is, " men of the woods.'' The Gauls who first inhabited Britain-'.= were distinguished, not only for their good natural capa city, but for their valour, and their pledged fidelity to aid each other against the attacks and incursions of aU foreign powers. Their persons were tall, their clothing was untanned skins, and they painted the naked parts of their body with a blue dye extracted from woad, decorating the skin with figures of various objects, particularly the heavenly bodies ; and they shaved all their beard except on the upper Up, which they suffered to grow to a great length. The barbarous practice of tatooing was long in use among the more northern Britons ; it was a custom amongst the Picts as late as the fifth cen tury. Their towns were a confused assemblage of huts, covered with turf or skins, little superior to the kraals of the Hottentots, and for the sake of security, generally planted in the midst of woods and morasses, and sur rounded with palisadoes of trees piled upon each other, like the fortification observed at this day among the New Zealanders. They seem to have been able to fabricate warlike weapons from metals. Their arms were small tar gets, and swords, and spears ; and in battle they used a very formidable kind of chariot, which was armed with iron scythes, projecting from the axle. They were governed by chiefs, and the great mass of the people, as we learn from Csesar, were in a state of servUe dependence, the mere slaves or serfs of a peering nobility. The general food of the tribes inhabiting the southern districts of England, was milk and the flesh of their herds, super stition having forbid the use of fish, and several kinds of animal food ; but the poor savages of the north subsisted principaUy by hunting and the spon taneous fruits of the earth. These Ancient Britons had made some progress towards civUization in the southern parts of the island, prior to the period of the Roman invasion, but all the northern tribes were as wild and uncul tivated as their native hiUs. * The original name of this island, Albion, is that by which it stUl continues to be designated in the language of our Scottish Gael. They call it Albinn. Inn is the Gallic term for a "large island;" jiZ6, though not now used by the Scottish Gael, anciently signified white : Albinn therefore means the " White Island," a name probably given to Great Britain from the chalk cliffs which it presented to the view of the people on the opposite coast. Numerous interpretations have been given of the word Britain; the most probable perhaps, of which, is that advanced by Whitaker, the historian of Man chester. Brit,h.e maintains, signifies "the divided" or "separated;" and the termination in, is nothing more than the sign of the plural according to the usual mode of declension in the Gaelic tongue. Britin therefore were the separated people or the emigrants, as we should say, — those who had removed from the rest of their countrymen in Gaul, and settled in j1Z6otk; and thus it would appear that the name of Britain, which is now given to the island, was originaUy applied to its inhabitants. 40 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. Their reUgion, which formed part of their monarchial governments was Druidical. Its origin is not known with any degree of certainty; though some contend that it was first introduced into England by the Phoenicians; whUst others affirm that the Druids accompanied the Celts in early ages from the east. They adored under different appeUations the same Gods as the Greeks and Romans. Pluto they considered as their progenitor; ApoUo, -Mars, Jupiter, Minerva, and Mercury, were severally worshipped. To thesej the superior Gods, they added a multitude of local deities, the genii of the woods, rivers, and mountains. They worshipped in high places and in deep groves, and adored the God of Nature, and rendered him praise on the yearly succession of the seasons, which they kept as solemn festivals. They did not worship idols in the human or any other shape, but one of their tenets inculcated the invisibUity of the deity, and that consequently he ought to be adored without being seen. They dwelt largely in aUegory, and symbolical representations, and clearly explained their superstitious rites and mytholo gical observances to the initiated, but to none else ; initiation therefore became a point of primary importance with every individual who was ambitious of exalting himself to eminence in any station of Ufe, whether civU, miUtary, or reUgious. On the oak they looked with peculiar reverence. This monarch of the forest, from its strength and durabiUty, was considered as the most apprO' priate emblem of the divinity. The tree and its productions were deemed holy ; and if it chanced to produce the mistletoe, the whole tribe was sum moned to gather it ; two white heifers were immolated under its branches ; the chief Druid cut the sacred plant with a golden knife, with much pomp and ceremony ; and a reUgious feast terminated the ceremonies of the day. Their sacrifices in time of peace were the fruits of the earth ; in war they devoted to the God of battles the spoils of the enemy ; but in the hour of danger human sacrifices were deemed the most efficacious. To their belief in the immortality of the soul, they added the absurd fiction of metempsy chosis, that man is placed in the circle of courses — good and" evil being placed before him for selection. If he prefer the former, his soul, when it leaves the body, enters the circle of felicity ; but if he chooses the latter, death returns him to the circle of courses, and he is made to do penance for a time in the body of a beast or reptile, and then permitted to re-assume the form of man. According to the predominance of vice or virtue in his disposition, a repetition of his probation may be necessary ; but after a certain number of transmigrations, his offences will be expiated, and the circle of feUcity will receive him among its inhabitants. GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 41 " The worship of the Druids,'' writes a learned author, " was of a nature that required silence, secrecy, and space for contemplation. This end could be obtained by no means so effectually as by placing their sacred temples in the bosom of an impervious grove of trees, intersected by a labyrinth of devious and inextricable paths and windings. The veneration for oaks was patriarchal ; it is not, therefore, wonderful that the early Druids esteemed that tree holy, and solemnly consecrated it to one of their most powerful deities. The soUtude of a grove of branching oaks gave an air of mystery to their proceedings, and the people were easily persuaded that it was the pecuUar residence of the great and terrible God, who would not fail to inflict summary punishment on the profane intruder, whose unhallowed feet should violate the sanctuary, and unauthorized, attempt to penetrate the hidden re cesses of the sacred enclosure, where the most holy temple was constructed."* The sons of chief personages were disciples in the ethic schools of the Druids, where the rules of moral life were inculcated as the foundation of human wisdom ; and in order to guard the people against any possibility of sophistry and innovation, their maxims of justice were taught orally. Their dispensation of justice was not under any written code of laws, but on what they professed to be equitable principles, all their verdicts being determined by such a sense of impartial justice as the assembled delegates entertained ; and in a discordance of opinion in the congress, appeal was made to the Arch-Druid, whose sentence was decisive. * One of the greatest festivals of the Druids was the Winter's Solstice, whioh they held about the same period of the year at whioh we celebrate the festival of Christmas ; and hence the practice of adorning our houses with Mistletoe (a sacred plant with the Druids) has been derived from the use of that plant in the reUgious observances of that people. The mistletoe was dedicated to Friga, the Venus of the Scandinavians ; and as she was the goddess of love, hence ai'ose the custom of kissing under the mistletoe. The festival of the Saturnalia was introduced by the Eomans, and was united with the winter festival of the Druids. The Holly was dedicated to Saturn; and as the fetes of that deity were celebrated at tho same time, the Eomans were accustomed to decorate their houses with holly. The Eoman laurel was entwined with the Druidical mistletoe, and the Saxon evergreens with the hoUy and ivy, to form a garland wherewith to deco rate the houses and temples of the people ; and so has this custom of decorating our houses with evergreens remained with us to this day : the early Christians having used the same observances as their Pagan neighbours, whUe they were celebrating their fes^ tival at Christmas, in order that they might escape observation. The festival of the Winter's Solstice was meant to testify men's joy at the return of the sun, and it obtained the Anglo-Saxon name of Juul or Yule, a word for whioh several etymologies have been assigned. On the eve of the Winter's Solstice, the Anglo Saxons burnt a large block of wood as an emblem of returning light and heat, and hence may be traced the stiU ob served custom in England, of burning the yule log. 42 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. In their civU government, capital offenders were sentenced to death, and publicly sacrificed in the most awful and solemn manner, whilst those con victed of smaller crimes were excluded from public worship, and deprived of aU civil and reUgious benefits untU they sincerely repented. The British Druids exercised their utmost authority in opposing the usur pation of the Roman invaders, who, inflamed with resentment, determined on the utter extermination of the Druidic prder, consequently its priests were sacrificed to this inhuman policy ; and those who fled to the Isle of Anglesea perished in the flames by the orders of Suetonius, and subsequently great numbers of them were rpassacred in the unsuccessful effort of the Britons under Queen Boadicea. After this period the power and splendour of the Druids rapidly disappeared. The original inhabitants of the eastern side of the island, extending from the Humber to the Tyrie, at the period of the Roman invasion, were the Brigantes,-^- the most numerous and powerful of aU the tribes that then shared the possession of Britain. They were the last of the British tribes that bent the neck to the Roman yoke. Ptolemy, who wrote about a.d. 120, asserts that they reached from sea to sea, the Mersey being their southern, and the Frith of Solway their northern boundary on the western coast. Under this general term, however, appear to have been included the Voluntii, to whom belonged the west of Lancashire, and the Sistuntii, who possessed Westmorland and Cumberland ; as weU as the Parisi, who occu pied the southern district of Yorkshire, and who are supposed by Horsley to have been separated from the proper Brigantes by a line drawn from the Ouse or Humber to one of the bays on the sea coast north of that river. According to Richard of Cirencester, the Parisi lived on the eastern point of Brigautia, where the promontories of OceUum (Spurn Head) and of the Brigantes (Flam borough Head) stretch into the sea, and their cities were Petuaria and Ptrtws Felix. Probably as the capital of the proper Brigantes was on the banks of the Ure, the river Derwent formed the boundary between the two kindred tribes, and the present East Riding may safely be assumed to include some what more than the extent of territory occupied by the Parisi. The capital or metropolis of the Brigantes is termed by many writers, Iseur ; by Antoninus, Isu-brigaritium, afterwards Isurium, and its site is said to be the spot upon which now stands the smaU town or viUage of Aldborough, near Boroughbridge, in this County. ¦* The Brigantes appear to have descended from the Helvetu, whose emigration is mentioned by Crosar. De Bell. Gall. lib. i. The word Brigantia is derived by some writers from bri, a hUl; gan, a lake; and tia, country. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 40 Caius Julius Csesar, a favourite Roman General, having in the short space pf three years conducted his victorious legions from the foot of the Alps to the mouth of the Rhine, descried from the coast of Morini the white cUffs of the neighbouring island ;' and the conqueror of Gaul aspired to the glory of adding Britain to the dominions of Rome. The Britons, by lending aid to his enemies, the Veneti of Gaul, supplied him with a decent pretext for hostilities; and in the latter part of the summer of the 55th year before the Christian era (the exact day, according to HaUey, the astronomer, was the 26th of August), being the 699th year after the foundation of the Roman empire, Csesar sailed from Whitsand, on the French coast, between Calais and Bou logne, with the infantry of two legions (12,000 men in about 80 ships), and in a few hours he cast anchor before the spot now occupied by the town of Deal. The cavalry was directed to follow in eighteen vessels, which were stationed in a port about eight mUes from that in which Csesar embarked. The Roman fleet left the coast of France at day break, and about ten o'clock in the fore noon it arrived on the coast of Britain, here formed of low cliffs, which were covered with British warriors prepared for battle. After waiting in vain for the arrival of his cavalry until three o'clock in the afternoon, Csesar took ad vantage of a favourable wind and tide, and running up about seven mUes further, brought his ships upon an open and level strand, which was more favourable for the landing of his troops. The natives appeared in multitudes to oppose their landing, and the Roman troops were seized with alarm at the novel and formidable appearance of the British warriors, and, unacquainted with the depth of the water, they were unwilUng to leave their ships. At length, after much hesitation, the standard bearer of the tenth legion, calling on his feUow soldiers to foUow, jumped into the sea. It was some time before -they could reach firm ground ; for the depth of their ships had obliged them to anchor at a considerable distance from the shore, and they had to struggle through deep water, whUe their enemies rode into the water with their horses and attacked them, or overwhelmed them with missiles from the beach. As soon, however, as the soldiers obtained a firm footing, they gained the beach after a short struggle, and the untaught valour of the " naked bar barians," was soon made to yield to the superior discipline of their enemies. The Britons fled, and the invaders being destitute of cavalry were unable to pursue them. Thus did the Romans, for the first time, place their feet on the soil of Britain. Csesar had been four days in Britain before his cavalry could put to sea from the coast of Gaul, and then, although a favourable wind brought them within sight of the camp, the weather became so stormy that they were driven back 44 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. to the port they had left. The storm increased during the night, and Cesar's ships, which rode at anchor, were destroyed or much damaged. This acci dent caused the British chiefs to form a new conspiracy, with the design of attacking the Roman camp. A general assault was soon made, and although it proved unsuccessful, it taught Csesar to reflect on the evident danger of his situation, should the inclemency of the winter interrupt his communication with Gaul. He therefore gladly accepted an illusory promise of submission from a few of the native chiefs, and returned with his army to Gaul, after a short absence of three weeks. The ensuing winter was spent by each party in the most active preparations ; and in the foUowing spring, Csesar, with an army consisting of five legions and 2,000 cavalry (30,000 men) sailed from the coast of Gaul, in a fleet of more than 800 ships. At the sight of this immense armament, the Britons retired with precipitation into the woods ; and the invaders landed without opposition on the very same spot which they had occupied the preceding year. The British chiefs having composed their differences, soon united against the invaders ; and the latter were exposed to constant attacks, in the course of which they lost a considerable number of men; for the woods which covered or skirted the country through which Csesar marched, gave a secure shelter to the Britons, and they were thus enabled to harass the Romans hy sudden and unexpected attacks. At length, after conquering and receiving the submission of a very large tract of country, extending from sea to sea on the southern side of the island ; Csesar having agreed upon a tribute which the Britons were to pay annuaUy to the Roman people, returned to Gaul, carrying with him the hostages which he had taken from the British chiefs, as pledges for the fulfilment of a treaty into which they had entered with him. Csesar 's expedition to Britain was considered one of the most re markable events of the time ; and the victorious commander was looked upon as one who had carried the Roman arms into a new world. ^ During the period of about a century, from the time of Cassar to that'ci' Claudius, we have scarcely any information relating to the island of Britain. But in the reign of the latter Emperor, Britain seems to have been disturbed with civil strife. One of the chiefs, called by Dion Cassius, Bericus, was compelled to fly from the island, and took refuge at the court of Claudius, to whom he explained the state of Britain, and the faoiUty with which, at that moment, it might be conquered. It appears too, that at that time, the islanders had been very irregular in the payment of their tribute, so that Claudius was thus supplied with an excuse for hostilities. Accordingly, in the year 43, that Emperor sent over an army, under the command of a GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 45 senator of distinction, named Aulus Plautius, who perfected the conquest of a great part of Britain. The first mention of the great tribe of the Brigantes occurs about a.d. 50, after Plautius was recaUed to Rome, and when Ostorius Scapula was Governor or Proprsetor of Britain. At that period Caractacus, the brave chief of the Silures (Welshmen), was defeated in battle by the Romans, and he fled for protection to Cartismandua, his stepmother, Queen of the Brigantes. But instead of assisting or protecting that great warrior against the common enemy, this unnatural woman deUvered him up to the Roman power, from fear of drawing a victorious army into her country. The dignified appearance of Caractacus and his family at the court of Rome, is the theme of every schoolboy. From Tacitus we learn some particulars of the abandoned Queen Cartismandua. She had married one of her chiefs, named Venusius, who quarrelled with her because she would not surrender to him the supreme power over her people. She then not only deserted her husband, but con signed her person to the embraces of her menial servant Vellocatus. Avitus Didius Gallus succeeded Ostorius as Proprsetor, in the year 52, and about the time of his arrival in Britain, a civil war broke out among the Brigantes. Many of the tribe, disgusted with the conduct of their Queen with regard to Caractacus, placed themselves under the leadership of Venusius, and cried out against the indignity of being ruled by a woman. Cartismandua's party appear to have been the strongest, and Venusius was driven from among tbe Brigantes. He now placed himself at the head of the party that was in arms agairist the invaders, and for some short time was pretty successful. In the meantime, Cartismandua captured and put to death a brother and other relatives of her husband ; and he, in revenge, collected his allies, and being joined by a party of the Brigantes, proceeded to make war on the Queen, his wife ; she now claimed the protection of the Romans, who imme diately sent an army to assist her, and in a well-contested battle the enemies of the Queen were defeated. In a.d. 60 there was a general revolt of the Britons, under Boadicea, Queen of the Iceni, joined by Venusius with his Brigantian forces. This vaUant princess led the British armies in person against the legions of Rome; and, in a dreadful fight at Battle Bridge, 80,000 Britons are said to have been left dead on the field. The reader of English history is aware that this noble lady died by her own hands to save herself from infamy dr bonds. In the following year the combined army was routed by Suetonius Paulinus ; and in the same year the Brigantes revolted against the authority of Cartismandua, who, after some severe conflicts, was only rescued with great difficulty by a body of Roman troops. 46 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. In the year 70 Venusius was sole monarch of the Brigantes ; but after several hard-fought battles, in which the Romans were frequently defeated, a great part of the Brigantian territory was subdued by PetUius Cerealis, in the reign of the Emperor Vespasian. Beitish Remains. — There is hardly a comer of England in which the spade or the plough does not from time to time turn up relics of its earHer inhabitants ; but the British antiquities consist chiefly in the places of sepul chre of that people — the barrows, cromlechs, stone circles, together with the instruments of stone and bronze, which are sometimes discovered in the sepulchral chambers, and frequently found in ploughed fields in most parts of the country. From the remotest ages it was customary to mark to future generations the last resting place of the honoured dead, by raising mounds, more or less elevated, according to circumstances connected with the locaUty, or according to the power or influence of the deceased, To these sepulchral mounds our Anglo-Saxon forefathers gave the name of low (hlcewj, and barrow, (beorh, bearwj ; of which the former is chiefly preserved in names of places, such as Bartlow, Honndslow, Lowesby, &o. ; while the latter has been generally used as the technical term for all ancient sepulchral mounds : both are equivalent to the Latin tumulus. The British barrows are generally large mounds of earth covering a rude chamber of rough stones, often pf colossal dimensions. Groups of large stones arranged in this manner have been found scattered over various parts of the British Islands, as well as in other countries. Our antiquaries have applied to them the name of Cromlechs, and have in many cases called them Druid's altars ; but recent researches have left no room for doubt that they are aU sepulchral chambers denuded of their mounds. The word cromlech is said to be Celtic, and to have a meaning not differing much from that of the name dolmen, given to them in France, which signifies a stone table ; and the peasantry of that country often caU them Fairies' Tables, and Devils' Tables. Some of our Celtic antiquaries not satisfied with the name of Cromlech, had named them Kist-vaens, or, as they interpret it, stone chests. The cromlech, in its simplest form, consists of four large stones, three of which raised on their ends form the sides of a square, while the fourth serves as the covering, so that the chamber thus formed is usually closed in only on three sides. In some instances, as they now stand, the back stone has been carried away, and the cromlech consist only of three stones, two standing like the portals of a door, to support the transverse cap stone or lintel ; in others, where the cromlech has faUen, only two stones are left, one upright, and theiother leaning upon it with one edge pn the ground; GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 47 and, in many instances, aU that remains of the original cromlech, is a single Stone standing upright or lying flat. We owe these forms doubtless to the dUapidations of time, and several examples are known of the destruction of whole cromlechs to break up the stones for roads or other purposes. But the cromlech, or British sepulchral chamber, was sometimes made more complicated in its structure than that just described. In some instances it presents the form of a ponderous cap-stone, supported at its corners by four stones, and leaving the sides of the chamber more or less open. In other instances the chamber is made more complete, its sides being formed by a number of stones joined side by side with one or more very large cap-stones above. Sometimes more than one cromlech is found under the same mound ; and in other cases these Celtic sepulchres contain gaUeries or a series of chambers under large mounds. Vast works of this kind are found in Brittany and in Ireland. The celebrated Celtic monument in New Grange, in the County of Meath, contains a chamber 20 feet high, by 30 feet in circum ference, and is approached by a narrow passage from the side of the mound, the entrance to which was closed by a long slab ef stone. The monument at Ashbury, in Berkshire, to which the Saxons attached the name of Welandes Smiththan (Weland's Smithy — Weland was the Saxon Vulcan), a name which has been corrupted to that of Wayland Smith's Cave, appears to have been originaUy a gallery, with chambers of this description. In the year 1816 a very curious monument of the same kind, at Stoney Littleton, near Wellow, in Somersetshire, was opened, and an account of it pubUshed in the 19th vol. of the Archeelogia. The barrow, which was com posed of stones instead of earth, was of a very irregular form, measuring in length 107 feet, its extreme breadth being 54 feet, and its height 13 feet in its most elevated part. When opened it was found to contain a long gaUery, with chambers on each side. The reason of the use of stones instead of earth, in the formation of the mounds or barrows, may be generaUy traced " to the natural character of the locality, as such barrows are found most frequently on spots where stone was much more easily obtained than earth. In Scotland, where barrows formed of stone are numerous, they are caUed cairns. The Welsh call them camydd; and in France the sepulchral mounds of stone are called galgals. The cap-stones of some of the cromlechs in England are of immense size ; that of the cromlech in the parish of Morvan, in (Cornwall, called Chuin-Quoit, is calculated to weigh about 20 tons; the covering stone of one at Lanyon, in the parish of Madron, in the same county, weighs about 15 tons ; and that of the very remarkable cromlech on the hUl between Maidstone and Rochester in Kent, known by the name of Kits-Coty 48 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE- House, has been estimated at 10^^ tons. Others are much smaUer. The base of the larger sepulchral mounds, and very often of the smaller ones, was usuaUy defined either by a shaUow foss, or by a circle of stones, and some times the two were combined. In some instances, especiaUy in Cornwall, instead of the circle of stones, the base of the barrow was supported by a sort of low wall. The circles of stones are frequently found with the cromlechs in various parts of England; and they are also often found without any cromlech in the centre. There are several good examples of the latter in Cornwall, which measure from 60 to 80 feet in diameter; and there are remains of these sepulchral circles on the summit of the lofty Pen-maen- mawr, in North Wales ; at Little Salkeld, in Cumberland ; at RoUrich, near Banbury; and in several other parts of England. The circle at Salkeld, called in that locality. Long Meg and her Daughters, consists of 67 unhewn upright stones, forming a circle of 350 feet in diameter; some of the stones are 10 feet high, and 15 feet in circumference ; and one, which stands about twelve yards from the others, is 15 feet in circumference, 18 feet high, and weighs 16^ tons, is called "Long Meg," and the others "her daughters." Near the principal stone, four others form a square, which is doubtless part of the ancient cromlech. This, like aU these sepulchral circles, is situated on elevated ground ; and indeed, in a great number of cases, the British cromlechs, like the barrows of other periods, are placed on lofty hills, commanding extensive views of the sea, if on the coast ; or when inland, of the surrounding country. It seems always to have been the desire of the British chieftains to be buried in such commanding positions ; and our as tonishment is heightened on viewing the stones of many of the cromlechs and circles, by the consideration that there are no quarries in their immediate neighbourhood, from which the stones could have been obtained. A fine cromlech, with a circular base of stonework, at Molfra, in Cornwall, is situated on a bare hill, which commands a wide range of view over Mount's Bay. The above-mentioned circle on the top of Pen-maen-mawr, is another extra ordinary instance of this kind ; and a third is situated on a lofty hiU com manding a view of the ScUly Isles. But the Britons must have possessed a mechanical art of which we are ignorant, by which these stones could be removed. Dr. Stukely asserts that all the great stones forming Stonehenge, on SaUsbury Plain, were brought from Marlborough Downs, a distance of IS miles, and that one of them weighed 40 tons, and would require 140 oxen to draw it. The RoUrich Stones are perhaps the most interesting remains of the ancient Britons, in the central district of the kingdom; they form a GENEEAL HISTOEt OF YOEKSHIEE. 49 Circle, the diameter of which is 107 feet. Within the circle are the remains of the cromlech now called the Five Whisperiiig Knights, in consequence of their leaning position towards each other; and which cromlech, Stukely believed to have formed a Kistavon. The taUest of the five large Knights is now very nearly 11 feet in height. A stone circle, called Arbor-low, in the peak of Derby, is nearly 150 feet in diameter, and is surrounded by a deep intrenchment. Sometimes the stones forming the sepulchral circle are nearly equal in size, while in other cases they are very irregulay. It does not necessarUy foUow that the mounds raised in all these circles, contained each a cromlech — the interments, may, in some cases, have been made without a chamber, as it has been found to be the case in some large barrows. Antiquarians observed these circles before they noticed how often they ac companied cromlechs, or were aware that cromlechs are sepulchral monu ments ; and they generaUy gave them the name of Druids' Circles, imagining that they were the temples, or courts of justice, or places of assembly of that order ; but it is now quite certain that the majority of them were originally made to support or inclose sepulchral mounds. The cromlechs, too, which it is now certain were sepulchral chambers, were until lately supposed to be Druidical altars. In the greater numbfr of instances, the superincumbent mound or barrow has been removed, chiefly for the sake of the earth, or soil ; but sometimes, perhaps, in the belief, prevalent during the middle ages, that treasure was contained under it, and the massive chamber of rough stones alone has been left standing. Hence the number of cromlechs without mounds. With our scanty knowledge of the subject, it would be rash to assert that the whole of the stone circles stiU remaining on our own soil have been erected around sepulchral mounds. The greater number of these circles are not larger than the basis of ordinary large barrows, and there are sepulchral mounds known, whose basis are equal to the largest ; yet some few of the circles may have been erected for other purposes. The gigantic monuments of Stonehenge and Abury, or Avebury, are amongst those to which it would be difficult to assign a cause for their erection. Stonehenge, an Anglo-Saxon term, meaning the hanging stones, is the most remarkable monument of antiquity in our island. It, " the great wonder of Salisbury Plain," con> sisted originally of an outer circle of 30 upright stones, 14 feet high above the ground, and 7 feet broad by 3 feet in thickness, sustaining as many others placed horizontally, so as to form a continuous impost. This differs from other Celtic stone monuments, inasmuch as the stones 60 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. have been hewn and squared with tools, and each of the upright stones had two tenons or projections on the top, which fitted into mortices or hollows -in the superincumbent slabs. Within this circle, which was about 100 feet -in diameter, was another circle, 83 feet in diameter. This again enclosed two elliptical arrangements of large and smaU stones. This structure of stones occupies the centre of an area, inclosed by a circular entrenchment, consisting of a ditch and bank, 300 feet in diameter ; and it was approached by a wide entrenched avenue from the north-east, which, at the distance of a few hun dred feet, branched off in two ways, running north and east. Stonehenge— the Chorea Gigantum — Choir of Giants, is a mysterious monument, con cerning which no one knows who buUt it, or how, or why it was built; and the tradition that Merlin, the magician, brought the stones from Ireland, is felt to be a poetical homage to the greatness of the work. The ground around Stonehenge is covered with barrows, and was evidently the cemetery of a very extensive tribe. At the viUage of Avebury, about twenty miles distant from Stonehenge, is a series of remarkable circles, which consisted originaUy of an area pf about 1,400 feet in diameter, iriclosed by a deep ditch and bank. The space in closed by the earthen embankment contains a village, with various fields and buildings, over which the stones that remain are scattered in apparent con fusion. At no great distance from the outer circle is a fine cromlech with ¦its attendant circle of stones. In the British barrows the body is sometimes found to have been buried entire, while in many cases it had been burnt, and the ashes deposited in rude urns. When the body was interred without cremation or burning, it was sometimes stretched at fuU length, and at others doubled up and laid on one side, or sometimes placed in a sitting position. The urns, containing the burnt bones, are sometimes found in their natural position, and sometimes inverted, with the mouth downwards. When upwards, the urn is often covered with a flat stone. The different modes of burial seems to have been fashions adopted by different famiUes, or by subdivisions of tribes or septs; though all the different modes of interment are often found in the same harrow, for some of the barrows seem to have been family graves, and it is rare to find only one interment, while the large barrows contain usually a considerable number of ums and bodies. Throughout these early barrows there appears much irregularity, and evidently a good deal of caprice in the mode of burial. Most of the cromlechs, stone circles, and large stones, in various parts of this and other countries, and which, as we have said, have been classed erro- GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 51 neously among Druidic remains, have attached to them many popular names and legends; for when their meaning, or the object for which they were erected, were alike forgotten, the monuments continued to be regarded by the peasantry with reverence, which, combined with a certain degree of mysterious fear, degenerated into a sort of superstitious worship. As we have seen, the peasantry of France denominate the simple cromlechs fairies' tables, and devUs' tables, and the more complicated cromlechs are similarly named fairies' grottoes, or fairy rocks. The single stones are some times called fairies' or devils' seats. 'The people of Brittany declare that the multitude of stones arranged upright in lines at Carnac, was an army of pagans changed into stones by St. Cornilly. It is the popular belief in Anjou, that the fairies, as they descended the mountains, spinning by the way, brought down the great stones in their aprons, and placed them as they are now found. We have also seen that the Saxons beUeved that a cromlech in Berkshire was the workshop of their mythic smith, Weland. A sepulchral circle in CornwaU is called Dance Maine, or the Dance of Stones, and is said to be the representation of a party of young damsels, who were turned into ¦ stones because they danced on the Sunday. A cromlech on ¦ Marlborough Downs is called the Devil's Den ; and the three gigantic stones near Boroughbridge. are caUed the Devil's Arrows. According to legend, a party of soldiers who came to destroy Long Compton were changed into the RoUrich Stones, in Oxfordshire. These, and similar legends, are found in every part of our island, and they are generally good evidence of the great antiquity of the monuments to which they relate. It does not appear to have been the custom with the Britons to inter with their dead many articles of value. By much the greater number of barrows are found to contain nothing but urns and burnt bones. In some cases a few instruments of stone or bronze are found ; and in much rarer instances beads and fragments of other personal ornaments occur. Traces of a metal covering for the breast, very thin, and therefore more for ornament than protection, have also been found with skeletons apparently of this early date. The most remarkable discovery of this kind was made in the month of October, 1833, at Mold, in Flintshire. A barrow, which was called by the Welsh peasantry, bryn-yr-elly-llon, or the hiU of fairies or goblins, and which was believed to be haunted, was cleared away for agricultural purposes. It was found to contain interments of ums, &c., and in another part of the mound was discovered a skeleton, round the breast of which was a corset of thin gold.- This inter esting relic is now in the British Museum. There is a curious circumstance connected with this barrcw : befpre it was opened, a woman of the neighbour- 52 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. hood declared, that as she was going home late one night, and had to pass by it, she saw over the barrow a spectre " clothed in a coat of gold, which shone like the sun." The implements made of stone, which are found in the barrows, are usually heads of axes or hammers, chisels, and arrow heads ; and these, as well as stone knives, saws, &c., are also found abundantly in aU parts of the British Islands, and indeed aU over the world. The British ums are in general, though not always, very rudely made — not baked, but merely dried in the sun, and having none of the elegance of the Roman ums. There are many ancient barrows in various parts of Yorkshire, especially in the south-eastern part of the county, or the wold district ; several of whioh have been opened, and found tp contain urns, burnt- bones, skeletons, stone and bronze implements, &c. ; and numerous relics of our British ancestors have been turned up by the plough and spade in various parts of the district. There are several collections of British coins in the hands of private indi viduals, as weU as in the museums, but our knowledge of them is as yet in its infancy; and comparatively little has been done towards classifying them in a satisfactory manner. Of the domestic buildings of the early Britons there are no remains, nor are there any relics of those terrible war-chariots which Csesar describes as striking terror into his legions ; but a few British canoes (one of which is in the museum at York), a few circular shields, some spears, daggers, multi tudes of axe heads, arrow heads, &c. ; some coarse pottery, together with the sepulchral mounds, circles, and cromlechs, already noticed ; and the mighty earthworks, which they erected for the defence of the country, are the only memorials we have of the original inhabitants of our island. And in speaking of those earthen ramparts, it is difficult to define the precise share of the Ancient Britons in their construction, as compared with the labours of the successive occupants of the country ; for the Romans, heing too wise a people to be destroyers, naturally improved the old defences of the island, and adapted them to their own notions of military science ; and the same remark wiU apply to the Danish and Saxon invaders. In the year 79 Julius Agricola received the submission of the whole of the Brigantes, having effected by policy what the Roman legions were unable to accompUsh by coercion. His admirable prudence led him to introduce amongst the natives of Britain, the arts and manners of his own nation, and. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 53 by instilling into their minds a taste for the elegancies and luxuries of civi lized life, he accomplished more in a few years than his predecessors had done by arms for upwards of a century. The Britons were charmed with the mildness and the justice of his government, and publicly pronounced him their benefactor. From that period the Romans fixed their principal station at Eboracum (York), which place became the capital of the fourth Roman Province, caUed Mamma Casariensis. Agricola having reduced the north of England, and what is now termed the lowlands of Scotland, in order to secure his conquests, and to keep the latter district in subjection, erected a line of forts across what has been termed the upper isthmus, from the Forth to the Clyde ; and in the reign of Antoninus, LoUius Urbicus raised on the sanie site a new chain of fortresses, and joined them together by an immense .continuous rampart of earth and turf, which, from the name of the Emperor under which it was built, is usually termed the WaU of Antoninus. It is now called popularly Graham's Dike, and along its course are frequently found inscribed tablets, commemo rating the portion built by the different troops and cohorts of the Roman army. Some writers assert that Agricola, in a.d. 84, also extended from Solway Frith to Tynemouth a chain of stations, which, in a.d. 124, were connected by a deep ditch, an earthen rampart, and a great wall raised by the Emperor Hadrian, or Adrian, as an obstruction to the sallies of the Caledonians, who, obstinately refusing to yield to the imperial eagle, frequently descended in rage from their mountains, notwithstanding the barrier raised by Agricola, and penetrating into the Roman territory, committed dreadful ravages. After the departure of Agricola, in a.d. 85, this unbending people overrun a great part of the country to the north of the Humber; and being joined by numbers of the discontented Britons, who were anxious to throw off their subjection to a foreign yoke, carried on a predatory war against the Romans. To queU the revolt, Julius Severus was appointed Governor of Britain, but was shortly afterwards recalled, and Prisons Licinius was sent to succeed him. But the Caledonians continuing their incursions, the Emperor Hadrian himself arrived in Britain, in a.d. 120, to oppose them in person, and fixed his residence at Eboracum. He brought with him the Sixth Roman Legion, styled Legio Sexta Victrix,* which consisted of about 6,000 foot and 600 horse; but on his approach the invaders retreated. From what he had seen, * The title Victrix, or Conquering, was bestowed on those legions distinguished for some feat of extraordinary bravery. The first officer of the legion was caUed Legatis Legionis, and he acted under the superior order of the General of the army of which his legion formed a part, or the Governor of the province where it happened to be stationed. 54 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. Hadrian was convinced that the chain of forts erected by Agricola, was not sufficient to resist the assaults of these active and persevering barbarians; and he determined to confine their incursions by raising that formidable harrier across the island, from the Solway to the Tyne, of which we stiU trace the stupendous remains. An immense wall, nearly seventy miles* in length, extending over plain and mountain, from Bowness, on the Solway Frith, to the now celebrated locaUty of WaUs-Erid, near the mouth of the Tyne, ac companied on its. southern side by an earthen vaUum and a deep ditch. This celebrated wall was a massive work of masonry, varying from 6 to nearly 10 feet in thickness, and from 18 to 19 feet high. On the north side it was accompanied by a foss 36 feet wide, and 15 feet deep. To the south was another lesser foss, with a triple entrenchment of earth and stones. The waU was fortified with a formidable series of 23 stationary towns, with inter mediate mUe castles and watch towers. These towns or stations were a short distance apart along the line of the wall, and each consisted of a citadel, strongly walled, with streets and habitations within, and often extensive suburbs without. The smaUer fortresses, as we have just observed, stood between these towns, at the distance of one Roman mile from each other; and between each of these again were four smaU subsidiary buildings, which for distinction have been termed watch towers. And for its defence were assigned four squadrons and fourteen cohorts, composing an army of 10,000 men. The remains of this great rampart at the present day rises in some parts six feet above the surface. Until lately it was the custom of historians to consider the waU only as the structure raised by Hadrian, while the earthen vallum or rampart was ascribed to Severus ; but the Rev. J. CoUingwood Bruce, of Newcastle-upon Tyne, clearly proves, in his interesting volume on " The Roman Wall," recently published, that both are parts of one work, erected by the former Emperor. This immense erection seems to have been part of a system of circumvaUation adopted by the Emperor Hadrian, for it appears that remains of similar walls are found on the distant frontiers in Germany. Having thus made provision for the future security of the province, and having also restored order, and driven back the Caledonians into their fast nesses, Hadrian returned to Rome, leaving the Sixth Legion at York, where its head quarters continued for three hundred years. The expedition of Hadrian to Britain, which was commemorated by several * The word " mile" is derived from the Latin word mille, a thousand— a thousand steps or paces making a Eoman mUe. The mUe varies in different countries. GENEEAL HISTOEY OE YOEKSfilEE. 65 coins in large and middle brass, seems to have been followed by a period pf profound tranquillity. In a.d. 138, Hadrian was succeeded by the Emperor Antoninus Pius, whose Proprsetor in Britain was LolUus Urbicus, a man of energy and talent, which he was soon caUed to exercise in suppressing a new irruption of the northern tribes. The Caledonians appeared in a state of insurrection on the south of Hadrian's waU, aided by a remnant of the Brigantes, who seem to have pre served a precarious independence, perhaps in the rugged country extending from the wilds of Lancashire over the lake district, and who had frequently made predatory outbreaks. The latter were quickly overwhelmed, and the greater part, of the tribe destroyed. The northern insurgents were driven into their mountains, and LoUius Urbicus caused the new barrier to be raised for their restraint, which we already noticed under the name of the wall of Antoninus. The energetic measures of Urbicus restored tranquiUity for a time. The Romans had now begun to treat the natives with more respect, and to consider them as component parts of the empire ; the Britons were allowed to become participators of the laws, privUeges, and immunities of the Romans; they became eligible to every_ situation and office for which they were qualified, and they no longer endured a disgraceful exclusion from intermarrying with their conquerors. By this wise act the Romans gained some of her best commanders and Emperors. The ancient British habits too began to be disesteemed by the chiefs, and regarded as a badge of barbarism. Tacitus, describing the change which the manners of the Britons underwent, says, " They, who a little whUe before disdained the language, now affected the eloquence of Rome ; this produced an esteem for our dress, and the Toga came into general use, by degrees they adopted our vicious indulgences, porticoes, baths, and splendid tables ; this among those uninformed people was caUed cultivation, whereas, in fact, it was only an appendage to slavery." In the reign of Commodus, about the year 183, the Caledonians again took up arms, routed the Roman army, and ravaged the country as far as York. To repel these invaders, the Emperor immediately sent over as Proprsetor, Ulpius MarceUus, a soldier of approved valour, with a great body of troops, who quickly restored peace. But it was of short duration, owing to the revolts of the natives, the incursions of the Caledonians, and the insubordination of the Roman army. In the reign of Severus, Virius Lupus, then Proprsetor in Britain, wrote to that Emperor " informing him of the insurrections and inroads of the barbarians (as the native inhabitants were called), to beg that he might have either a greater force, pr that the Emperer would come over 56 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. in person." Severus chose the latter, and in 208 (the 14th year of his reign), attended by his two sons, CaracaUa and Geta, and a numerous army, he arrived in Britain, and immediately advanced to York, which was besieged by the Britons, under Fulgenius, a Scythian General, whom the natives had drawn over to their assistance. The Emperor, now sixty years old, and sorely afflicted with gout, resolved to conduct the war against them in person. He rejected all overtures for peace, except on their entire submission to his mercy, which hard condition they rejected. They accordingly raised the siege, and retired north of Hadrian's wall, whither the Emperor, with his son CaracaUa, and a great force proceeded, leaving his other son, Geta, in company with Papinius, an eminent Roman lawyer in Yorkj to administer justice until his return. Severus having at length, in a.d. 209, subdued or concluded a treaty with these hitherto unconquered people, at a loss, accor ding to Dion and others, of no less than 50,000 men, took hostages of them, and returned to York. It has been popularly supposed, as we have already observed, that the foUowing year was employed in the construction of that immense line of fortification from the Solway to the Tyne, which recent examinations, and the careful consideration of ancient testimonies, have left little doubt was the sole work of the Emperoir Hadrian ; though the his torian of Severus has not hesitated to pronounce that stupendous erection the principal glory of his reign. Severus carried his conquests as far as thg Highlands of Scotland, and it is not probable that after having added so much to the Roman territory towards the north, he would raise a barrier on the limits to which the Roman power had been confined when almost at its lowest ebb. It is possible, however, that Severus may have repaired the waU, and it seems that during his stay at York he often visited its towns and garrisons. After the Emperor's return to York from Caledonia, it is related that he went to offer sacrifice at the Temple of BeUona, and whilst there, news suddenly arrived that the Mseatse and the Caldonii (the two great tribes into which- all the other tribes of Britain had in a manner merged) had again united, and recommenced their predatory inroads. Furious at the faithlessness of the barbarians, and incensed at the renewal of a war, by an enemy whom he had considered as completely subdued, Severus resolved on their entire extermi nation ; but his own death, which occurred on the of 4th February, 211, averted the accomplishment of his sanguinary design. A short time previous to his death, he addressed his sons, CaracaUa and Geta, thus : — " I leave youiAntonines (a term of affection) a firm and steady government, if you follow my steps, and prove what 'you pught to be; but weak and tottering, GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. 57 if you reject my council. Let every part of your conduct tend to each other's good ; cherish the soldiery, and then you may despise the rest of mankind. I found the republic disturbed, and everywhere distracted, but to you I leave it firm apd quiet — even the Britons. I have been all, and yet I am now no better for it." Then calling for the urn in which his ashes were to be de posited, he exclaimed) " Thou shalt hold what the whole world could scarcely contain." The Roman historian, Eutropius, informs us that this Emperor died at York— he expressly says, " decessit Ebcn-aci; and Spartian also says, "periit Eboraci in Brittania." The Saxon Chronicle confirms this testimony, by stating that " he reigned seventeen years, and then ended his days at York." (Efer-wick.) After his death, according to the custom among the Romans, his remains were reduced to ashes. Dion Cassius and Herodian teU us that his body was borne by the soldiers to the funeral pile, about which the army and the two sons of the deceased Emperor made several processions in honour of his memory ; that abundance of presents were cast upon it, and that the fire was put to it by CaracaUa and Geta ; and that the ashes were coUected and re ceived into an urn of porphyry, carried to Rome, and deposited in the tomb of the Antonines. AU the writers who have described York have dwelt with much exultation on the magnificence of the funeral obsequies of Severus. The funeral pile is stated to have been erected beyond the viUage of Holgate, about 1^ mile west of thg City, and the eminence now caUed Severus Hill is doubtless indebted for its present appeUation to its connection, in some way, with that funeral ceremony.* Drake is of opinion that this mount or tumuU, where the funeral rites were performed, was raised by the soldiers that the memory of their great captain might survive in Britain ; but other historians maintain that the hill is a natural elevation on the face of the country ; and recent excavations, for the purpose of forming the large reservoir for the new water works, have confirmed that opinion. * When a Eoman died, his body was laid out and washed, and a small coin was placed in his mouth, which it was supposed he would require to pay his passage iu Charon's boat. If the corpse was to be burnt, it was carried on the day of the funeral in solemn procession to the funeral pUe, which was raised in the place set apart for the purpose, caUed the ustrimum. The pUe, called rogus, ovpyra, was built of the most inflammable wood; and when the body had been placed upon it, the whole was ignited by the rela- tiops ,of the deceased. Perfumes and spirituous liquids were often poured over it ; and otgects of different kinds, which had belonged to the individual when nlive, were thrown into the flames. When the whole was consumed, and the fire extinguished, wine was scattered over the ashes, after which the nearest uelatives gathered what remained of 68 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. After the death of Severus, his two sons, in compUance with the wiU of their father, jointly assumed the imperial purple; but the elder brother, CaracaUa, a man of vile disposition, perceiving that his half-brother, Geta, was in much favour with the army, on a slight pretence of mutiny, ordered no less than 20,000 soldiers and persons of both sexes, whom he considered as Geta's friends, to be put to death ; and with his own hands he murdered Geta in the arms of his mother.* This monster then returned to Rome, from whence he went to Syria, where he was assassinated at the instigation of Opillius Macrinus, by Martialis, a desperate soldier, who had been refused the rank of centurion. For a considerable time no occurrence of importance took place in Britain, though the Sixth Legion continued at York. But the country nortli of the Humber, where the Romans had settled in great numbers, began to assume a beautiful aspect. They cleared the woods, drained the marshes, built or improved all the principal towns ; the cheerless cabin of the British chief was exchanged for the Roman Villa, with its decorated porticoes and tesselated pavements ; and some of the most important Roman stations were scattered over the once wild haunts of the fierce Brigantes. In the year 287, during the reign of the Emperor Dioclesian, Carausius, a Briton, who had the command of a fleet on the Belgic coast, passed over into Britain; assumed the imperial purple, and set at defiance the whole power of Rome. He is said to have been proclaimed Emperor at York. This usurper overcame, with the assistance of the Picts and Scots, with whom he leagued, Quintus Bassianus, a Rornan Lieutenant, who was sent over by the Emperor, to dispossess and destroy him. After reigning for seven years, an independent Emperor of Britain, he was treacherously mur- the bones aud the cinders of the dead, and placed them in an urn, in which they were committed to the grave. The site of the ustrinum has been supposed to have been traced in the neighbourhood of several towns in Eoman Britain. Persons of rank were burnt with greater ceremonies than were observed on ordinary occasions, and on a spot chosen for the purpose instead of the ordinary ustrinum. The Eomans had other modes of sepulture besides that of cremation. The bodies were sometimes buried entire, but in several different manners. — The Celt, the Roman, and the Saxon, by Thomas Wright, Esq., M.A., F.S.A., &c. * Althoughit has been generally agreed by local historians, that the murder of Geta and Papinius by CaracaUa took place at York, Gibbon, in his Decline and Fall of the Romari Empire (chap. vi. pp. 52, 53), seems to be quite unconscious that any difference of opinion prevailed as to whether it happened at York or at Eomo. The silence of such au authority, on a question incidentaUy so important to the accuracy of his history, is very ominous of the invalidity of the claim of York to have witnessed the assassination, as well as the death and deification of some of the masters of the world, — York Guide. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 59 dered at York, by his friend Alectus, who appears to have caused himself to be proclaimed Emperor in that City. Both of these usurpers were of plebeian origin. Some authors assert that Alectus was murdered by Asclepiodotus, who also seized on the government of Britain, whilst others contend that Alectus reigned until Constantius, sumamed Chlorus, was elected Emperor at Rome, in a.d. 304, when the latter came over immediately to Britain, and slew him with a sword of his own making — he (Alectus) having been, as it is asserted, in early life a whitesmith. Constantius, though but a Senator of Rome in the reign of Aurelian, was of imperial descent ; and having some years before visited this island in the character of Propraetor, is said to have married Helena, or Helen, a British Princess — but that Helen was of British origin, appears to be a mere fable. Constantius and Helena were, however- the parents of Constantine tlie Great, the first Christian Emperor of Rome, who was generaUy supposed to have been born at York, in the year 272, until Niebuhr published his " Lectures on the History of Rome,'' wherein he shows that in aU probability, Naissus, in Moesia, was the place of his birth. Drake and other local historians seem very desirous to prove that Con stantine was born in York during one of the expeditions of his father to Britain, but little reliance is to be placed upon many circumstances of this nature, connected with history so many centuries ago — especially when his torians are found vieing with each other in giving, as they think, an impor tance to the City to which, in many instances, it has no claim. In the in stance before us, Gibbon, in a note to the fourteenth chapter of his Decline and Fall, destroys any lingering inclination, which a partial citizen might retain, to believe that such was the case. Constantius resided at the Imperial Palace at York for two years,'^nd died there on the 25th of July, 806, " fifteen months after he had received the title of Augustus, and almost fourteen years and a half after he had been promoted to the rank of Csesar."* The ceremony of the deification of the remains of Constantius was performed with the usual splendour at York ; Drake has coUected, with great dUigence, an account of the costly character of the solemnities.! Several medals in memory of Constantius were struck on this occasion, vvhich have the head of the Emperor velatum et laureatum; and this inscription, "Divo Constantio Pio." On the reverse is an altar with an eagle on each side of it, holding a label in their beaks between them, inscribed " Memoeia Felix." • Gibbon's Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, xiv. p. 159. + Eboracum, p. 43. 60 GENEEAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. There was a local tradition that the um containing the ashes of Constan tius was deposited in a vault beneath the Church of St. Helen-on-the- Walls, York ; that it was discovered about the time of the Reformation ; and that the um was preserved for some time in that church. Constantine the Great, the Son and successor of Constantius, is said to have taken great pains to be present at his father's death, the better to se cure the favour of the British legions. Gibbon relates the arts by which he induced the imperial authorities in Eboracum to proclaim him Emperor of the West. However, it is certain that he assumed the imperial purple at York, with the titles of Caesar arid Augustus, and that there he was pre sented with a Tufa, or golden globe, as a symbol of his sovereignty over the island of Britain. He prized this emblem highly, and upon his conversion to Christianity, had a cross placed upon it, and had it carried before him in all his processions. The Tufa has been the usual sign of royalty in England, since that period, and is considered part of the regaUa. Soon after the inauguration of the Emperor Constantine, he not only left Britain, but Europe also; and removed the seat of empire from Rome to Byzantium, called afterwards from him, Constantinople. In 312, Constantine renounced paganism, and embraced Christianity, and in the foUowing year, after the conquest of Italy, he made a solemn declara tion of his sentiments in the celebrated edict of Milan, restored peace to the Christian church, and promulgated the principle of religious liberty. Eusebius ascribes the conversion of Constantine to the miraculous sign of a cross, which was displayed in the heavens, with the legend, " In hoc Signo Vincis " (By this sign thou shalt conquer), while he meditated and prepared the Italian expedition. The Britons remained quiet till the year 326, when they revolted, and the Scots having come to their assistance, the Romans, under the command of Traherus, their Lieutenant, were defeated, and Octavius, the British chief, was crowned King of all Britain, at York. After this, Octavius ungratefully sought to dispossess his benefactors,- the Picts and Scots, of that part of the country aUotted to them by Casarius ; but the King of Scotland being informed of his intention, came suddenly upon him, and compelled him to flee to Norway. The Romans continued to hold their sway in Britain for nearly a centuty after the death of Constantine the Great, but their writings afford but scanty materials for illustrating the history of Yorkshire. The Emperor Constantine having taken the flower of the British youth to his wars in Gaul, Britain was left open to the devastating incursions of the GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 61 Caledonians, or Picts and Scots,* who in 364 renewed their attacks ; and the country was at the same time harassed by the Saxons, whose predatory descents on the coast indicated their intention of seizing on a dominion, which imperial Rome now held with a feeble hand. " Internal dissensions, and external assaults were now hastening fast the downfall of the empire of Rome, and in a.d. 426, the Romans finally relin quished all possession, power, and authority, in Britain, in the 481st year after Csesar's coming over. " The tyrants had left none but half foreigners in our fields," writes WiUiam of Malmsbury, "none but gluttons and de bauchees in our cities; Britain robbed of the support of her vigorous youth, and the benefit of the liberal arts, became a prey to her neighbours, who had, long marked her out for destruction. For immediately after, multitudes lost their lives by the incursions of the Picts and Scots, vUlages were burnt, cities demolished, and aU things laid waste by fire and sword. The inhabitants of the island were greatly perplexed, and thought it better to trust to anything than a battle : some of them fled to the mountains, others having buried their treasures, many of which have been dug up in our age, betook them selves to Rome for assistance." The Boman Government in .Britain was vested in a Prefect, or Proprsetor, who possessed the whole administrative power, judicial and military; a Qusestor or Procurator, appointed by the Emperor to arrange the affairs of the revenue ; ahd a numerous army of legionaries and auxiUaries secured the obedience of the people, and protected the country from foreign invasion. In the reign of Constantine, both the form of government and the territorial divisions were altered. That monarch divided his vast dominions into four prefectures— Italy, . Gaul, the East, and lUyria. Britain was included in the * Scotland, the ailcient name of whioh was Caledonia, was first inhabited by a people who came from Scythia or Scandinavia, which now includes Norway, Sweden, and part of Denmark, and took the name of Fiks or Pehts, from a country so styled in the north of Norway. In the time of the Saxons they were called Peohts, and their country Peohtland. They were called Caledonians from Celyddon, which in the ancient British language meant the coverts. Some say they were descendants of Scythiac, or Gothic colonists, who conquered North Britain some ages before the Christian era. .The Soots were originaUy Gallic Celts, who in early ages migrated from the western shores of Britain into Ireland. They made many marauding incursions into the Eoman territories on the south-west coast of Scotland. At length they settled in Eintyre, and had coloni zed Argyle, fifty years after the Saxon Conquest, when a bloody struggle ensued between them and the natives, which, at the end of 340 years, terminated in the extinction of the Pictish government, and the union of the Plots and Soots, under Keneth Mao Alpin in A.D. 843. • ' 62 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. prefecture of Gaul, and the deputy of that prefect resided at York, and was caUed the Vicar of Britain. His subordinates were the Consulars of Valentia and Maxima Casariensis ; and the Presidents of the sub-divisions called Flavia, Britannia Prima, and Britannia Secunda. The superintendence of the army was committed to three Dukes ; the first commanded from the - north frontier to the Humber ; the second, with the title of Count of the Saxon Shore, the troops on the coast from the Humber to the Land's End in CornwaU ; and the third, the Count of Britain, commanded the garrison in the interior. Throughout the provinces were scattered a great number of inhabited towns, and military posts, the names of which are still preserved in the Itineraries of Richard and Antoninus. They were partly of British and partly of Roman origin ; and were divided into four classes, gradually descen ding in the scale of privilege and importance. The Colonies claimed the first rank, and were inhabited by veterans rewarded by the lands of the conquered nations. Each colony was a miniature representation of the parent city. It adopted the same customs and was governed by the same laws. In Britain there were nine of these establishments, two of civil and seven of a mUitary description, namely, Richborough, London, Colchester, Bath, Glou cester, Caerleon, Chester, Lincoln, and Chesterfield. The towns of the second class were called Municipia, and were occupied by Roman citizens. The advantages enjoyed by the Colonies were nearly equalled, and in some respects surpassed by the privileges of these municipal cities, the inhabitants of which were exempted from the operation of the imperial statutes, and possessed the right of choosing their own magistrates, and of enacting their own laws. Privileges so valuable were reserved for the reward of extraordi nary merit, and Britain could only boast of two Municipia — Verulam (near the present town of St. Albans), and York. The Latin Cities were the next in rank, and their inhabitants had the right of electing their own magis trates annually ; and the Stipendiary Towns were charged with the imperial tribute from which the other towns were exempt. These distinctions were however gradually abolished. Antoninus granted to every provincial of rank and opulence, the freedom of the city ; and CaracaUa extended the indul gence to the whole body of the natives. The science of agriculture seems to have made great progress about this time, for Tacitus observes, that, except the olive, the vine, and some other fruits peculiar to the hotter climates, this country produced aU things else in great plenty ; and that the fruits of the earth, in coming up, were forward, but GENEEAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. 63 very slow in ripening ; the cause of which was the excessive moisture of the earth and air; and Strabo observes, that the air was more subject to rain than snow. Camden says, that so happy is Britain in a most plentiful product of aU sorts of grairi, that Orpheus, (or more truly Onomacritus) hath caUed it the very seat of Ceres; and, continues the same writer, "former times this was as it were the granary and magazine of the Western Empire, for from hence the Romans were wont every year, in 800 vessels larger than barks, to trans port vast quantities of com for the supply of their armies in garrison upon the frontiers of Germany." He also quotes an encomium on Britain, from an old orator, in a panegyric to Constantine, thus, " 0 fortunate Britain, the most happy country'in the world, in that thou didst first behold Constantine our Emperor. Thee hath Nature deservedly enriched with the choicest blessings of heaven and earth. Thou neither feelest the excessive colds of winter, nor the scorching heats of summer. Thy harvests reward thy labours with so vast an increase, as to supply thy tables with bread, and thy ceUars with liquor. Thy woods have no savage beasts ; no serpents harbour there to hurt the traveller. Innumerable are thy herds of cattle, and the flocks of sheep, which feed thee plentifully, and clothe thee richly. And as to the comforts of life, the days are long, and no night passes without some gUmpse of Ught. For whilst those utmost plains of the sea shore are so flat and low as not to cast a shadow to create night, they never lose the sight of the heavens and stars ; but the sun, which to us appears to set, seems there only to pass by." Isacius TMtes, a famous Greek writer, affirms that the fertility and plea santness of Britain gave occasion for some to imagine, that these were the Fortunate Islands, and those the Seats of the Blessed, where the poets tell us the face of na.ture smiled with one perpetual spring. Many striking evidences of the stupendous public works accomplished by the Romans during their residence in this country still remain. " Like a conqueror of modern times, they bestowed extraordinary attention on their public roads and walls, and at a distance of 1,400 years, we can trace in legible characters around us, the labours of the mistress of the world." The Roman veterans were no less famed for their valour in the field than for their knowledge and assiduity in architecture and sculpture, for they fought and laboured with equal skill and vigour, and it is much to be regretted that this wise policy of keeping the soldiery usefully employed in time of peace, should have been abandoned by the modem European nations. The Sixth Legion, called Legia Sexta Victrix, remained at York, until the 64 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. final desertion of the island by the Romans. This legion was brought out of Germany by the Emperor Hadrian, and its station at York may easily be traced for a period of more than 300 years. The ninth legion was also stationed at York, but is generally supposed to have been early dissolved, and incorporated with the sixth. This legion consisted of six to seven thousand troops, of which about one-tenth part was horse, and the remainder foot soldiers. The Roman spldiers employed much of their leisure hours in perpetuating their names, or complimenting their victorious leaders by monumental in scriptions; and also by inscriptions commemorative of the completion of buildings and public works ; and in erecting and inscribing statues in honour of their principal deities ; but after the introduction of the Christian religion these statues were destroyed. Many Roman coins have been found in the neighbourhood of the great stations, where they had been secreted either by the Roman soldiers, or by the affrighted Britons, when the northerri tribes or the Saxon invaders burst in upon their country, and rased their towns to the ground. Roman Roads. — The roads of the ancient Britons were nothing more than tracks which led through the dense forests, and even part of the morasses, and pointed to those parts of the rivers where they were fordable, or where they had something of a ferry. The Romans bestowed very great attention, labour, and expense on their pubUo highways, and they never thought a country subdued until they had roads for the purpose of marching their legions through it. T'hey made roads in this country many of which remain even now, and when they came to streams, they spanned them by arches of masonry. The Roman roads generally consisted of a regular pavement, formed by large boulder stones or fragments of rock, embedded in gravel, and varied in width from four to fourteen yards, and were carried over rivers, not by bridges but by fords ; and, being thus firmly paved with stone, they were commonly called Streets. Stratum is the word made use of by Bede, quite through his wprk, to denote a Roman road. The four principal Roman military roads which traverse Britain were the Watling, or Watheling Street; the Ermine, or Hermin Street; the Fosseway; and the leknild Street. The Roman roads are .generally very direct. They seem seldortj to have turned out of their course to avoid a hiU ; and in some instances we find them proceeding direct up acclivities which we should not encounter at the present day. A Roman road runs over the top of one of the mountains of Westmorland, almost 2,000 feet above the level of the sea, which is nariied from its elevation. High Street. GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 65 The Watling Street,* which divided England in length, commenced at the port of Rutupia, now Richborough, in Kent, and extended to the limits of the Roman WaU on the Tyne. It is probable that this great highway entered Yorkshire somewhere in the neighbourhood of Bawtry, but the exact point is not ascertainable. It is certain, however, from traces, that it passed through Danum, or Doncaster, over Scawsby and Pigburn Leas to Bamsdale, through Pontefract Park to Oastleford, the ancient Legiolium. From this station it continued to Calcaria, now Tadeaster, and from thence to Eboracum (York), the chief seat of the Roman power in Britain. From York it was carried on to Isurium (Aldborough), where it crossed the river, and thence by Leeming Lane to Cattaracton, now Catterick Bridge. Cros sing over the Swale, it turned more to the northward, and passing over the Tees at Ad Tisam (Piersebridge), it entered the County of Durham, and thence continued to the above mentioned Roman WaU. The Ermine Street extended from London to Lincoln and Warrington, crossing Northamptonshire at Castor, and passing through Yorkshire. The Fosseway led from Bath to Lincoln and Newark; and the Ickneld, oxlelmild Street, extended from Caistor, in Norfolk, through Colchester to Lincoln. Besides the Watling Street and Ermine Street, several other Roman roads ran through the Ager Eboracensis, or Province of York, in various directions, and for the discovery of some of them, as also many other Roman works, we are mainly indebted to the industry of Francis Drake, Esq., the learned historian of the City of York, and the late Rev. Thomas Leman. A miUtary road led from Mancunium, or Manchester, to York, passing through the • The etymology of this, the greatest of the Eoman roads, has caused much discussion amongst antiquarians. Hoveden thinks that it was called the Watling Street, from Wathe or Wathla, a British King. Whittaker, the Manchester historian, and Stukeley, are of opinion that it was the GuetheUng road — Sarn Guethelin, or the road of the Irish, the G being pronounced as W. Camden thinks that it derives its name from an un known Vitellianus, but that its etymology is from the Saxon Wadla, a beggar, because this road was the resort of snch people for the charity of travellers. Spelman fancies it was caUed Werlam-Street, from its passing through Verulam. Somner derives the name from the Belgic WenteUn, whUe Baxter contends that it was made by the original Britons. Dr. Wilkes says, that it was more indented and crooked than other Eomau roads usuaUy are, and supposes that it was formed of wattles, which was the idea also of Pointer. A learned writer in the Mirror of 1839, contends that it was made from station to station, and hence its deviation from a straight line, which in many parts is so apparent. He is also of opinion that it was planned and formed by Vespasian the celebrated Eoman general in Britain, after the various stations through the king. dom were finished, and that he named it, in compliment to the Emperor Vitellius VitelUi Strata Via, Watling-Street Way. 66 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. township of Stairilahd, near Halifax, by the way of Cambodunum, supposed to be Almondbury, near Huddersfield. It kept the Calder on its left tiU it crossed that river about a iriUe below Dewsbury, where it fell in with the turnpike road to Wakefield. From this place it kept the direction of the present highway, half the way to Pontefract, and then inclinirig to the left, joined the great military road from Doncaster to York. Another of these Roman ways ran from Chesterfield, by way of Sheffield, Barnsley, Hemworth, and Acworth, and joined the Watling Street at Ponte fract ; and a vicinal way appears to have passed through Pontefract, in a southerly direction, to the villages of DarringtPri, Weritbridge, Smeatori, Campsall, and Hatfield. There vfas also a road from Manchester, by Cam bodunum, Wakefield, and the Street-houses. A Romari military way ran from York to Derventio, near StamfPrd Bridge, where it divided into two branches, the one leading to Durisley Bay, the Dunus Sinus of Ptolemy ; and the other to Scarborough and Filey. The branch leading from Stamford Bridge to Dunsley Bay is now called Wade's Causeway, and is supposed to have derived its name from the Saxon Duke, Wada, who iS said to have re sided at a Castle near the coast. Drake, in his History of York, teUs us that he " had his first ittteUigence of this road, and the camp upon it, from T. Robinson, Esq., of Pickering, a. geritlemari weU versed in this kind of learning." Mr. EtindervSfell, on thei authority of Mr. Robert King (who discovered the ¦^¦estiges of the Dunus Sinus road, in the fields near the viUage of Broughton, where eleven Roman urns were dug up in making fences for the enclosure, and the stones of the road have been frequently ploughed up), gives a clearer idea of this highway, in the following passage : — " There was also another Roman road which passed westward, through the range of towns caUed Street towns, viz: — Appletori-le-Street, Barton-le-Street, &c. The great Roman' road, or Ermine Street, continues by the town of Barugh, arid not far from Thornton and Risborough, to the barrows near the little village of Cawthom, or Coldthorn, where there is a small spring ; and a hoiise in the viUage stiU retains the name of Bibo, Supposed to be derived frprii ha,ving been a drinking house of the soldiers from the barrovv camps. Hence the road proceeds to Stopebeck, which it crosses in the line of the Egton road, and then continues, at a small distance from that road, to a stone cross, called Malo Cross, which it passes at about the distance of ioitj yards on the vvest of the cross. It then runs riPrthward to Keys-bee, which it crosses about sixty yards east of the Egton road, and pursues the northern direction, until it crosses Wheel- dale-bec, at the point of junction of that bee and Keys-bee, whence it proceeds by the Hunt-house to July or Julius Park, to the ancient Castle of Mulgrave, GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 67 situate near Dunns Sinus, pr Dunsley Bay, in the neighbourhood of Whitby, where several Roman urns have been found."* Another Roman road ran from York tp Bridlington Bay or FUey. This celebrated bay is called by Ptolemy Gabi-andtomcm-um Sinus Portuosus, or Salutaris. From it a Roman ridge, commonly caUed the Dykes, is apparent for many miles over the Wolds, .directing in a straight line for York. The late Sir Christopher Sykes discovered a vestige of this road at Sledmere, in leveUing a high bank, forming one side of the Slade near the Mere. " 'The workmen came upon a very distinct layer of smaU gravelly stones, at almost two feet six inches from the surface, laid in a convex form, nine feet wide, and six or seven inches thick, in the direction of a line between York and Hunnianby ; but .after it ascends the hill from Sledrpere, it is more in the foian of an intrenchment than a road, and has probably been used at different periods for both purposes."-]- Drake traces this road from Sledmere, by Wharram-le-Street and Settrington, to Malton and York. There was a Rp'man way from York to the Prsetorium pf Antoninus, which Camden places at Patrington. Drake fixes the first miUtary station frpm York, pn this road, at Derventio, or Stainsfordburgh, now called Stamford Bridge, and the next station at Delgovitia^^lSow~ljondesSomugK^~''Fiom.'iS^ latter station, part of the Ermine Street, called Humber Street, ran south to the viUage of Brough fad Petuarium) on the Hupuber ; and from the station ad Abum on the opposite side (Wintringham), was continued to lAndufn, now Lincoln. T.he great naUitary road frpm York to Lincoln, as njark,ed out in the fifth and eighth iter of Antoninus, was by Danum (Doncaster), and crossed tlje Trent at Littleborough, the ancient Argolieum. Thus did the miUtary roads converge in every direction from the extreniities pf the province to Eboracum, or York, their pommon centre. Wheri the Romans retired from Britain, and the country feU into a state of anarchy and confusipn, the roads were neglected and went into ruin and became almost inipassable, so th^t a journpy pi a few miles could not be made without guides. .Rojnan Stations, — ^Besides the great- Roman station of Eboracum, or Ebij- racup, at York, this County oontaiped also in ,the West Riding, the statipns of IsvTium, at Aldborough ; Legiplwm, near the junction of the rivers Aire and Cjalder ; : Danum, at Doncaster ; Olicana, at lUdey ; and Cambodunum, * HinderweU's Jlistory of |Scarb,oro,ugh, pp. 19, 20. -f AUen's History of Yorkshire, p. 14. 68 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. at Aldmonbury, near Huddersfield. The stations in the North Riding were those of Cataractonium, at Catterick ; and Derventio, at Stamford Bridge, or at Alby, or Aldby, a mUe farther northward ; and in the East Riding, Petu aria, at Beverley, or Brough ; Delgovitia, at Londesborough ; and Pratorium, at Patrington. Traces of Roman Encampments are found in several places, and wiU be noticed under their proper heads in this work. (For a further account of Roman Remains, see the History of York, at subsequent pages.) While under the dominion of the Romans, England and Wales contained thirty Civitates, or Seigniories, governed by their own magistrates ; and it is supposed that the Britons, when left to themselves, established the same number of republics. But civil discord very soon established military tyran nies; and to aggravate these evils, the Picts and Scots were continuaUy renewing their attacks on the divided Britons. In a few years every trace of popular government had vanished, and the ambition, the wars, and the vices of the petty Chieftains, or Kings, together' with the frequent incursions of the above-named depredators, inflicted on the country more permanent and extensive injuries than had ever been suffered from the incursions of foreign enemies. In the north, district after district became the scene of devastation at the hands of the northern tribes ; and the approach of danger admonished the more southern Britons to provide for their own safety. Vortigern, the most powerful of the British Kings, learning that a Saxon squadron of three Chivies, or long ships, was cruising in the channel in quest of adventure, under the command of the brothers Hengist and Horsa, hastened to solicit their assistance in banishing the northern invaders. The Saxon chiefs eagerly accepted the invitation of the British Prince to aid in fighting his battles, and depend for their reward upon his gratitude. " The Saxons were confederated tribes, consisting of the Angles, the Jutes, and the genuine Saxons, who had long been settled on the shores of the German Ocean, and extended from the Eyder to the Rhine. They were a bold and warlike people, trained to arms from their boyhood, and their only profession was piUage by land and piracy by sea. Their whole time was devoted to indolence and to rapine. Every warrior attached himself to the fortunes of some favourite chieftain , whom he followed in his piratical expe dition ; whUst the culture of their lands, and the care of their flocks, were consigned to the women and slaves. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 0\) Zosimus tells us, that they were in general a warlike nation ; and were looked upon to be the most vaUant of all the Germans, both for greatness of mind, strength of body, and a hardy constitution. MarceUinus observes, that the Romans dreaded them above aU others, because their motions were always sudden ; and Orosius says, that " for their courage and activity they were terrible." They were eminent for their taUness, symmetry of parts, and exactness of features. Wittichindus, a monk, has left us this description of them, " the Franks were amazed to see men of such vast bodies, and so great souls. They wondered at their strange habit and armour, at their hair hanging down upon their shoulders, and above aU, at their courage and resolution.'' Sidonius, the eloquent Bishop of Clermont, in describing these barbarians, says, "We have not a more cruel and more dangerous enemy than the Saxons. They overcome aU who have courage to oppose them. They sur prise all who are so imprudent as not to be prepared for their attack. When they pursue they infallibly overtake ; when they are pursued, their escape is certain. They despise danger ; they are inured to shipwreck; they are eager to purchase booty with the peril of their Uves. Tempests, which to others are so dreadful, to them are subjects of joy. The storm is their protection when they are pressed by the enemy, and a cover for their operations when they meditate an attack. Before they quit their own shores, they devote to the altars of their Gods the tenth part of the principal captives ; and when they are on the point of returning, the lots are cast with an affectation of equity, and the impious vow is fulfiUed." The Saxons, according to Lingard, were invited to Britain by Vortigem in the year 449. Ancient writers, however, are at variance respecting the exact year ; " but," writes Camden, " at what time soever they came over, it is certain they showed wonderful courage, and this tempered with great pru dence ; for in a short time they became so considerable, both for numbers, discipline, and conquests, that they were in a most prosperous and powerful condition, and their' victory in a manner entire and absolute." All they conquered, except some few who took refuge in the uncultivated western parts, yielded, and became one nation, and embraced their laws, name, and language. Such is the character of the auxiUaries invited by Vortigem to resist tbe invaders. For six years they served him with fideUty, but the Picts and Scots were no sooner driven back to their native hiUs, than the Saxons, in their greedy desire to possess the fertUe country for which they' had been fighting, obtained large reinforcements from their own country, and turned -70 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. their swords upon the Britons, who made an obstinate resistaijce, in which they fought many great battles under Vortigern arid the renowned King Arthur. The Picts and Scots having succeeded in subduing all the country north of the Humber, and in rendering York little short of a heap pf rjiins; Hengist, the Saxon general, attacked and defeated them with great slaughter near the City. After rescuing York, and all the country soijth of the river Tees, and, as has just been observed, banishing the invaders to their native moun tains, the Saxons received large reinforcements, and turned their weapons against the Britons. Several bloody battles were fought, and Kent was con quered by Hengist. Such is the account given by the Saxon chronicle ; but , the British writers tell a differerit tale. They attribute the loss of Kent to the infatuation of Vortigern and the treacherous policy of Hengist. They tell us that the British King having become enamoured of the beautiful Rowena, daughter of Hengist, divorced his Queen, took the former to his bed, and bestowed on his father-in-law the Kingdom of Kent. The Britoiis being satisfied that the Saxons intended to settle in this country, sent for Aurelius Arnb-ro^ius, Prince pf Armpriea, who is described as of Roman origin, the son of parents who had worn the purple, and a brave and unassu ming warrior, tp assist in defending them. Hengist, hearing of their em bassy, privately sent his sons Oehta and Abisa to secure all the northern fortresses ; who, striptly observing their father's instructions, feigned accu sations against many of the leading characters at York and its vicinity, charging them with a design of betraying their countrynien into the hands of those enemies whom the Saxons had defeated; aud under this pretpnce ' put many of them to death, some secretly, others openly, as actuaUy con victed of the treasons laid to their charge. Vortimer, the son of Vortigem, now placed hiniself at the head of the Britons, attacked the Saxons before the arrival of Ambrosius, and defeated them in four successive battles. Shortly afterwards Ambrosius arrived, aud slew Hengist in an obstinate and bloody battle at the viUage of Oonings- borough, about five miles from Doncaster, His two sons, Ochta and Abisa, fled with the shattered remains of their' army ; the fo-rper to York, ,and the latter to Aldborough, but they were quickly pursued by Ambrosius, to whom they surrendered, and by whom they were pard,oned. According to GUdas, Ambrosius perished in a domestic quarrel with (Juitolin. Uter, sumamed Pendragop, sucpeeded his hrpthpr Arnbrosius as Sovereign, in 490. O,ohta and Abisa soon after revolted, and wasted all the country from the borders of Scotiand to York, which City they invested. The British King defeated them in battle and took them prisoners. GENEEAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. 71 At the early age of eighteen, Arthur ascended the throne of Britairi; and the Saxons taking advantage of his youth, made an attempt upon his king dom. Ochta and Abisa, having escaped frorii their captivity, fled home, and returning with a powerful army, again conquered the northern parts of the kingddm, which they divided into two sections, or kingdoms ; the northern portion, which was situated north of the Roriian Wall, was called Bemicia, arid its capital was Bamburgh; and the more southern, Deifyr, or Deira,* of which York was the capital. Arthur, notwithstanding his youth, attacked the two brothers, and defeated them in several battles ; and the following summer he gairied a decisive victory over the Saxons, slaying 90,000 of them On Mount Baddn,f including aU the Saxon generals and the flower of their army. The City of York was deUvered up to him immediately on his approach. After all his conquests this renowned monarch was slain in a rebeUion of his own subjects, and by the hands of his own nephew, in 542. Though some writers assign dates to the exploits of this great chieftain, who is said to have fought and to have gained twelve battles ; yet Dr. Lingard says, res pecting hira, " if we divest his memory of that fictitious glory, which has been thi?oWri around it by the imagination of the bards and minstrels, he wUl sink into equal obscurity with his feUows. We know neither the period when he lived, nor the district over which -he reigned. * * * Perhaps w^hen the reader has been told," continues the same author, " that Arthur was a British chieftain, that he fought mariy battles, that h^ vs'as murdered by his nephew, arid was buried at Glastonbury, were his remairis where dis- 6Pvered in the reign of Henry H., he wiU have learned all that can be asceftairied at the preserit day, respecting that celebrated warrior."]: The manner of the discovery of his remains is said to be as follows : — King Henry II., whilst in Wales, heard an ancient song of the martial deeds of Arthur, accompanied -With the music of the harp, in which it was declared that Grlastonbury was the place of his burial. Henry repaired to the spot, and having ordered the ground in the church yard, between two pryamids, to be excavated, at the depth of seven feet a broad stone was discovered, to which was fsistened a leaden cross, with this inscription in rude characters : — Hie Jacet sepultus Rex Arturius in Insula Avalonia. iSTine feet deeper, we are told, his bcydy was found, enclosed in the trunk of a tree hoUowed for that •? The Kingdom of Deira comprehended Yorkshire, Durham, Lancashire, Westmor- land, portions of Northumberland, and Cumberland. •I- Badon has been generaUy supposed to have been the City of Bath. } lingard's History of England, vol. i., pp. 71, 73, fop. Svo, 72 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. purpose. Arthur must have been a powerful man, for the chroniclers of the discovery of his remains assert that his shin bone being set on the ground reached up to the middle of the thigh of a taU man ; and that the space of his forehead between his eyes was a span broad. His Queen, Guenhera, whom he had married at York, had been buried near him ; and both their bones were, by order of the Abbot Stephen, translated into the great church, and there royally interred under a marble tomb. The time of King Arthur is generally supposed to be from the year 506 to 542. Dissensions having arisen and become multiplied among the British Princes, the Saxons gained an entire conquest over aU the Britons, save a miserable remnant that would not submit to their yoke, and who sought shelter in the Cambrian mountains, where their posterity, according to Welsh history, have ever since remained. The conquest of the northern part of the country by the Saxon chieftains was not achieved until the year 547, that is ninety-eight years after the arrival of Hengist and Horsa in Britain. Besides England, the Saxons possessed themselves of the greater part of Scotland, and the Highlanders, who are the true Scots, call them Sassons to this day. The name of England was established in a.d. 800, when Egbert assumed the sovereign authority. Several of the counties are mentioned before the extinction of the Saxon Heptarchy, the smaller provinces or king doms of which became counties, as Kent, Sussex, Surrey, and Essex. Hampshire, Somersetshire, Wiltshire, and Berkshire (portions .or shires of . the kingdom of Wessex) are mentioned before the accession of King Alfred, a.d. 871 ; Devon and Cornwall about the same time ; Gloucestershire soon after, and most of the other countries from north to south are named in history previous to the Norman Conquest, where they use the same language with us, only varying a Uttle in the dialect. And this language we and they kept in a manner uncorrupted, together with the kingdom, for 1,150 years. " Notwithstanding the primitive barbarism of the Saxons," says a learned writer, " they are the people of whom we have the greatest reason to be proud. The Romans introduced into this island the arts of civilization, and the com forts of domestic life, but the Saxons did more. They not only gave to this kingdom salutary laws, by which the rights and liberties of its inhabitants were defined and made secure, but they laid the foundation on whioh the fabric of our glorious constitution is buUt ; and by the union of wisdom and piety, they succeeded in gradually forming the minds and manners of society to an -intercourse of superior poUsh, and conducive to the best interests of morality and virtue." GENEEAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. ' o The Religion of the Saxons, which was a more harbarcus superstition than that of Druidism, which it superseded, prevailed tiU nearly the close of the sixth century. It was chiefly founded on traditional tales received from their fathers, not reduced to any system. The votive sacrifices of the Britons were addressed to Hu, the god of peace, but those of the Saxons were chiefly offered up to Mercury, whom they caUed Woden, and upon whom they looked as the deity of war, and the ancestor of their princes. His sacrifices were men, and the day consecrated to him was the fourth of the week, which we therefore at this day caU Wednesday. They beUeved that if they could only propitiate this deity by their valour, they should be admitted after death into his haU, and there repose on couches, and satiate themselves with strong drink from the scuUs of their enemies whom they had kiUed in battle. The sixth day they consecrated to Venus, whom they called Frea and Frico, from whence we caU that day Friday; as Tuesday is derived from Tuisco, the founder of the German nation; and Sunday, Monday, and Saturday, from the gods Sunnan, Monan, and Seater, to whom those days were dedicated. Thor, whom they looked upon as another powerful god, they took to be the ruler of the air, and to him they dedicated the fifth day of the week, or Thursday, and they had also a goddess caUed Foster, to whom they sacrificed in the month of April; which, observes Bede, they caU Foster Monarthi and we at this day caU the paschal feast Easter. Besides being idolatrous, they were likewise strangely superstitious. Camden teUs us that they much used the casting of lots. After cutting a branch from some fruit tree, they divided it into Uttle sUps ; each of which they distinguished by certain marks, and then cast them promiscuously upon a white cloth. If the consultation was upon public affairs, the priest, but if upon private, the head of the family, after worshipping the gods, took each of the pieces up three several times, and then gave an interpretation according to the mark set upon them. To foreteU the events of war, they used to take a captive of the nation against which their design was, and compel him to fight a duel with one of their own country, and by the issue of this, they concluded which side would conquer. The Saxon conquerors divided Britain into seven portions or kingdoms, since oaUed the Heptarchy, over each of which a monarch presided. They lived for a long time in a flourishing condition^ under their Heptarchy, tUl at length, as we shall see, aU the other kingdoms, shattered with civil wars, were subdued to that of the West Saxons; and Egbert, the ambitious monarch of that kingdom, united them, and pubUshed an edict, ordering the whole Heptarchy to be caUed Englelond, i. e., The Land of the Angles. 74 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. Camden gives the following Chorographical table of the Saxon Hbp- 1.— The Kingdom of Kent 1 contained J 3. — The Kingdom of the 1 'South Saxons contained J 3.— The Kingdom of the East Angles contained 4.— The Kingdom of the West Saxons contained '5. — The Kingdom of Nor thumberland contained 6.— The Kingdom of the East Saxons contained -The Kindom of Mercia contained The County of The Counties of The Counties of The Counties of The Counties of The Counties of The Counties of Kent. Sussex.Surrey. Norfolk. Suffolk.. Cambridge, with the Isle of Ely. Cornwall.Devon. Dorset. Somerset. WUts. Hants. Berks. Lancaster. " York.Durham.Cumberland. Westmorland. Northumberland, and Scotland to the Frith of Edin burgh. Essex. Middlesex, and part Hertfordshire. Gloucester. ' Hereford.Worcester.Warwick. Leicester.Eutiand. Northampton.Lincoln. Huntingdon. Bedford.Buckingham. Oxford. Stafford. Derby. Salop. Nottingham. Chester, and the other parts of Hertfordshire. Cheistianity. — The Saxon idolatry remained in the ascendant throughput the greater part of Britain for more than a century, but was then happily superseded by the Christian reUgion. The exact date of the original intro duction of Christianity into Britain, is involved in obscurity, and has been GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 75 the subject of much dispute. Some writers place the date of its introduction at a very early period after the death of Our Lord. A manuscript in the British Museum says, "In the 31st year after the Crucifixion, Twelve disci ples of St. Philip the Apostle, of whom Joseph of Arimathea was the head', came into this land, and preached the doctrines of Christianity to King Arviragus, who denied them. But they obtained from him this spot (Glas tonbury), with twelve hides of land, whereon they erected the first church in the kingdom." Gent, Speed, Camden, and others, assert that the Gospd was preached in Britain, by Joseph of Arimathea, in the time of Suetonius, and by Simon Zelotes in the time of Agricola ; whUst some authors pronounce that Christianity was planted here by St. Paul, and some of the other Apostles. The chronicler of Dover Castle says, " In the year of grace 180, reigned in Britain, Lucius. He became a Christian under Pope Eleutherius, and served God, and advanced Holy Church as much as he could. Amongst other benefits he made a church in the said Castle, where the people of the town might receive the Sacraments."* The same chronicler then goes on to tell of the dreary period of the Saxon invasion under Hengist, when " the Pagan people destroyed the churches throughout the land, and thrust out the Christians." WUliam of Malmsbury records as a remarkable piece of ecclesiastical an tiquity, that when St. Philip the Apostle was in Gaul, promulgating the doctrines of Christianity, he received information that all those horrid super stitions which he had observed in the inhabitants of that country, and had vainly endeavoured, with the utmost labour and difficulty, to overcome, originated from a Uttle island at no great distance from the continent, named Britain. Thither he immediately resolved to extend the influence of his precepts, and despatched twelve of his companions and followers, appointing Joseph of Arimathea, who, not long before, had taken his Saviour from the Cross, to superintend the sacred embassy. On their arrival, the Roman General, Vespasian, who was tarrying at the court of Arviragus and Givenissa interested himself very warmly in their behalf with both the King and Queen ; and at his request the royal protection was granted to the strangers, and they were hospitably entertained by Arviragus ; who, to compensate them for their hard and toUsome journey, bestowed on them, for a place of habitation, a smaU island, which then lay waste and untiUed, surrounded by bogs and morasses. To each of the twelve foUowers of St. Joseph, he appointed there a certain portion of land caUed a hide, sufficient for one family to Uve upon ¦? See Appendix, No. I., to Dugdale's Account of the Nunnery of St. Martin. 76 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. and composing altogether a territory to this day, denominated " the Twelve Hides of Glaston.'' Mrs. M. Hall, in her recently-published Lives of the Anglo-Saxon Queens, says, " The account of the flrst intrpduotion of Christianity into Britain, sin gular and romantic as it may seem, is not undeserving of attention, as it is well known that St. Paul preached to the utmost bounds, of the west ; and we have excellent authority for believing that some of the Apostles actuaUy preached to the Britons, Theodoret, who asserts this, declares the Britons were converts to St. Paul ; and states that Aristobulus, a Bishop ordained by St. Paul, and sent to Briton as a missionary, was martyred a.d. 56. There is, indeed, every reason to believe that the Christian faith was promulgated in Britain, and many converts made prior to the defeat of Queen Boadicea. If Vespasian was at all instrupoental in establishing it here, it is singular enough, as his son Titus was the destroyer pf Jerusalem, and disperser of the Jews throughout the world." The Fabyan Chronicle says, " Lucius, or Lucy, the sone of CoUus, was made King of Brytons in the yere of our Lord, C. Ixxx. The whiche in aU actes and deydes of goodness foUowed his forpfaders in suche wyse, that he of all men was beloued and drad. Of this is lyteU or nome act notable put in memory, except that all wryters agrep that this Lueuis sent to Eleuthe rius, then Pope of Rome, certayne pistles or letters, prayinge hym that he and his Brytons myghte be receyved to the fay the of Christ's Churche; whereof the Pope beynge very joyous and gladde, sent into Brytayne .ii. noble clerkes, narned Faganus and Damianus, or after some. Fugacious and Dimia- nus ; these .ii. good and virtuous clerkes were honourably receyued by Lucius> the whiche, by their good Doctryne apd yertupus ensamples gyuynge, conuertyd the Kinge, and a great part of the Erytons."=;= The Venerable Bede, who wrote his Ecclesiastical History in the eighth century, " and whose learning would make his authority respectable in any age," tells us, that tho Christian faith was preached in Britain, and the first hierarchy established by the missionaries sent in a.d 170, by Pope Eleu therius, at the request of Lucius, a British King.-j- This statement is confirmed by St. GUdas the Wise, who flourished a.d. 495 ; and who observes, like Bede, that the Britons preserved the faith in tranquiUity from that time * Eabyan Chronicle, p. 38. + Eccles. Hist., Book i., chap. iv. Bede informs us that in the fourth century the Monastery of Bangor, near Chester, contained more than two thousand monks. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOHKSHIEE. 77 until the persecution of the Roman Emperor Diocletian in 303, when St. Alban and so many others suffered martyrdom.* Three British Bishops, — Eborius of York, Restitutus of London, and Adelphius of Richborough — attended the first ecclesiastical Council at Aries, which was caUed by Constantine the Great, to condemn the heresy of the Donatists, in a.d. 314. According to the accounts of that Council, published by Simon of Paris, the Bishop of York signed himself " Eborius Episcopels de Civitate Eboracensi."j British Bishops, we are likewise told, attended the CouncU of Nice in the year 325 ; and at that of Sardica in 347. The first direct evidence of the existence of structures, dedicated to the Christian wor ship in York, is to be found in the records of the events which occurred in that City during the struggles between the Britons and the Saxons. York was then frequently taken and re-taken, and suffered severely in various sieges, for the different conquerors took but little pains to keep in repair the various buUdings erected by the Romans. Ambrosius, the British King, held a CouncU of his Princes and nobles at York, and ordered, we are told, the churches, destroyed or injured by the Pagans, to be rebuilt. King Arthur, who is said to have celebrated the first Christmas ever kept in this country, at York in a.d. 524, gave similar directions. Now, on the other hand, some writers deny the whole of the above evidence altogether. Mr. Thomas Wright, a most zealous and skilful antiquary, in his exceUent work on the early inhabitants of Britain,]; teUs us, that amongst the immense number of altars and inscriptions of temples, and with so many hundreds of Roman sepulchres and graves as have been opened in this country, npt a single trace is to be found of the religion of the Gospel. " We seeni driven by these circumstances to the unavoidable conclusion," he writes, " that Christianity was not established in Roman Britain, although it is a conclusion totaUy at variance with the preconceived notions into which we have been led by the ecclesiastical historians," The same learned writer, after examining the subject, is of opinion that the few aUusions to Britain in the earUer Christian writers, ought to be considered as little better than flourishes of rhetoric. " Britain," he says, " was the western extremity of the known world, and when the zealous preacher wished to impress on his hearers or readers, the widely extended success of the Gospel, he would tell them that it extended from India to Britain, without considering much whether he was * BeUarm. de Scrip Eccles.; alsoUsher Eccles. Brit. Antiq., cap. v. + Camden's Britannia, Gough's Edition. I The Gelt, the Somen, and the Roman, pp. S96, &o. 78 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. literaUy correct in saying that there were Christians in either of these two extremes. We must probably consider in this light certain passages in Tertullian; Origin, Jerome, and others." With respect to the alleged pre sence of British Bishops at the Council of Aries, he thinks that the lists printed in the CoUections of Councils is extremely suspicious, and looks very like the invention of a later period. "In the year 360, under the Emperor Constantius, a Council was called at Arminum (Rimini), in Italy, on account of the Arian controversy, and it is said to have been attended by four hun dred Bishops. The prelates assembled on this occasion were to be supported at the public expense, but we are told by the ecclesiastical historian, Sulpicius Severus, who wrote about forty years afterwards, that ' this seemed unbe coming to the Bishops of Aquitaine, .Gaul, and Britain; and they choose rather to live at their own charge, than at the public expense. Three only from Britain, on account of their poverty, made use of the public provision ; for, though the other Bishops offered to make a subscription for them, they thought it more becoming to be indebted to the public purse, than to be a burden upon individuals.' If this account be true, and three Bishops reaUy went from Britain, they were perhaps only missionaries, whose converts were too few and too poor to be able to support them." Mr. Wright thinks it not unlikely that the three names of British Bishops " pretended to have been at the Council of Aries, had been made to answer to the three Bishops men tioned by Sulpicius Severus ; " and he treats the above accounts in whioh occur the names of Joseph of Arimathea, St. Paul, King Lucius, and Pope Eleutherius, as legendary stories resting upon no authority, and which will not bear criticism. He also refuses to believe in the " pretended persecution in Britain under Diocletian ;" but we think his reasons for denying it are not very strong. "A persecution of the Christians," he argues, " is not likely to have taken place under the orders of the tolerant Constantius, who was Governor of Britain when the persecution of Diocletian commenced, and who became Emperor two years later, and in another year left his title to his son Constantino.'' Constantius may have been tolerant, but he was a Pagan, and the representative and servant of the persecuting tyrant Diocletian ; and that he (Constantius) became Emperor two years afterwards, and that after his death his son became a Christian, seems but a poor cause for supposing that he refused to carry out the rule of his master in persecuting the Christians. Our antiquary entertains strong doubts of the authenticity of the work attributed to GUdas, on which chiefly our notions of the establishment of Christianity into Roman Britain are founded. " If the authority of such GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 79 writers be worth anything," he adds, "we must take it for granted that at least after the age of Constantine, Roman Britain was a Christian country ; that it was filled with churches, clergy, and bishops, and, in fact, that Pa ganism had been aboUshed throughout the land. We should imagine that the invaders, under whom the Roman power feU, found nothing but Christian altars to overthrow, and temples of Christ to demoUsh. It is hardly neces sary to point out how utterly at variance such a statement is with the result of antiquarian researches; not a trace of Christianity being to be found among the innumerable reUgious and sepulchral monuments of the Roman period found in Britain." But at whatever period the doctrines of the Christian religion were first preached in this kingdom, it seems certain, that Christianity had been quite extirpated, and that idolatry had spread itseK entirely over the land, when Pope Gregory the Great sent hither Augustine and his feUow labourers, to spread the faith of the gospel, about the year 596. In aUuding to this Ulustrious Roman Pontiff, the Rev. George OUver, in his History of Beverley, says " This exceUent personage sustained a character bf much estimation, both as an ecclesiastic and a politician ; and ample jus tice has been done to his merits, as weU by his cotemporaries, as by succeeding generations. To his extraordinary zeal and perseverance, the Anglo-Saxons were most essentiaUy indebted for their conversion from the horrible system of idol worship ; and the whole tenor of his conduct, with few exceptions, was exemplary as a Christian Bishop. He was a gentleman by birth, edu cation, and manners; being nobly descended, and the great grandson of. a Pope.* His distinguished talents had been improved in the best manner of the times ; and he devoted his earUer services to the public, in a civil station, as Governor of Rome. Early in the prime of his days he formed an irresis tible bias towards monastic retirement. How well calculated soever he might have been for civil employments, to which his inducements were more numerous and weighty, he voluntarUy relinquished the splendid offers of ambition, and attached himself solely to the calm pursuits of learning and reUgion. His paternal fortune, which was very considerable, he distributed with a Uberal hand amongst his kindred, and, with the smaU remains of his property, he built and endowed churches and monasteries. His gradations, from monkish seclusion to the papal throne, were few, but honourable to himself, and beneficial to those who employed him. Before his pontificate he had desired to come over to Britain, and obtained • Eelix n., who died A.r. 492, the 4Tth Bishop of Eome, 80' GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIRE. permission from the reigning Pope, but was prevented by the people with whom he was very popular, and who would not suffer him to leave Rome. This undertaking he had always at heart, and it rose from the following in cident: — Passing through the market-place at Rome, sometinie before his elevation to the papal throne, he saw some Saxon youths from Britain ex posed for sale, whom their mercenary parents had sold to the Romari mer chants, according to the custom -of all the TeutoniP peoples. We are told, that struck with their fine features and fair complexion, he enquired the name of the country which cPuld produce such perfect specimens of the human frame, and was answered that they came from Britain. Finding that they were still heathens, he sighed deeply, and said, " it is a lamentable consideration that the Prince of Darkness should be master of so much beauty, and have so many comely persons in his possession; and that -so fine an outside should have nothing of God's grace to furnish it within." Bede adds, that he again asked, what waS the name of that nation, and being told that they were ca,Ued Angli or Angles, " Right," said he, " for they have angelical faces, and it becomes such to be companions with the angels in heaven." " What is the name of the province from which they are brought," continued he, and upon being told it was Deira, a district of Northumbria, " Truly, Deira, because they are withdrawn from wrath, and caUed to the mercy of Christ," said he, alluding to the Latin De ira Dei eruti. " What is the name of the King of that province?" EUa or Alia, was the reply.. " AUeluia," cried he, " the praise of God, the creator, must be sung in those parts." Soon after his elevation to the pontifical chair, he turned his thoughts to this abaridoned part of the vineyard, and dispatched his friend Austin, or Augustine, the Superior of his own monastery, with forty other zealous monksy to spread the truths of the Gospel in Britain ; and by their preaching, the Christian religion made such rapid progress that it soon became the pre vaUing faith of the country, and Augustine was created Archbishop of Canterbury, in the year 600, and Paulinus, another Roman missionaryy. Archbishop of York, in 628. So great was the crowd of converts to Chris tianity, that PauUnus is said to have baptized 10,000 persons in one day in the river Swale, in Yorkshire.* * Speed Brit., p. 313. Camden says, that the Bishop, after having consecrated the Swale, commanded that they should go in two by two and baptise each other in the name of the' Holy Trinity. This feat was performed at Belperby. The river Swale was held sacred by thei Saxons, and termed the Jordan of England ou account of this won derful baptism by St. Paulinus. The same exploit is related of St. Augustine, and both the rivers are caUed Swale, though the one runs into the Thames, and the other into the Ure. GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. 81 The English no sooner received the truths of Christianity, than with a most fervent zeal they gave up themselves to it, and employed their best en deavours, to promote it, by discharging all the duties of Christian piety, and by erecting churches and monasteries, so that no part of the Christian world could either show more, or richer religious establishments. Even Kings, who frequently find the greatest obstacles to virtue, often set their subjects the strongest examples of the most heroic virtues. Several monarchs ex changed their purple and sceptres for hair cloth, their palaces for poor mean ceUs in the monasteries, and their power and command for the humility of obedience. So many persons of high and low degree, eminent for sanctity, did England produce, that the country was justly styled The Island of Saints. Under the Heptarchy York was the capital of the Kingdom of Northum bria, or Northumberland,* and its first Saxon King was Ida, of whom WilUam of Malmsbury writes thus, " The most noble Ida, in the full vigour of life and strength, reigned in Northumbria. But whether he himself seized the chief authority, or received it by consent of others, I by no means venture to determine, because the tmth is unrevealed." Ida died in a.d. 559, and on his death-bed he divided his dominions between his two sons ; giving the part called Deira to EUa, or Alia ; and Bernicia to Adda. It was during this reign that some youths, carried from this country for sale to Rome, attracted the attention of Gregory, a monk, afterwards Pope, and which circumstance was in some measure connected with the re-introduction of the truths of Christianity into Britain, as already related. EUa, the first Anglo-Saxon King of Deira, left at his death his son named Edwin, an infant of three years old, for his successor. Ethelfrith, or Ethelfrid, a grandson of Ida, soon after succeeded to the throne of Bernicia, and after rendering himself formidable to aU his neighbours, particularly the Picts, Scots, and Welsh, he invaded Deira, from whence he expeUed the infant King, and united that kingdom to his own dominions. Edwin was carried to North Wales, and educated by Cadvan, a Prince of that country. For the space of twenty-seven years Edwin wandered, a fugitive Prince, through the different kingdoms of the Heptarchy, without being able to re cover his paternal dominions, or even to find a secure asylum, as the power of Ethelfrith deterred the Saxon Princes from provoking his resentment by protecting a forlorn orphan. At length, at the age of thirty years, his many exceUent qualities, and majestic deportment, gained him the favour of Red- * The Kingdom of Northumberland was so called from its situation north of the river Humber — the laud north of the Humber, III 82 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. wald. King of East AngUa, and his royal consort ; and for a short period he enjoyed, at the East Anglian court, the sweets of tranquillity and repose. The consequence of this generous act of hospitality on the part of Redwald, were two hard-fought battles with the tyrant Ethelfrith, in the latter of which victory was declared in favour of the East Anglians, the Northumbrians having thrown down their arms, and betaken themselves to flight. Redwald advanced into Northumbria without opposition ; the three sons of the usurper, Eanfrid, Oswald, and Oswy, having fled into Scotland, and the Northum brians submitted to Redwald, who not only restored Edvi'in to the throne of Deira, his patrimonial inheritance, but also gave him the Kingdom of Bernicia. "Edwin obtained the Kingdoms of Deira and Bernicia in 617," writes Allen, " and in 624 he acquired, though not without much opposition, a de cided pre-eminence over the other Princes of the Heptarchy, and assumed the title of Monarch of the Anglo-Saxons, which Redwald had enjoyed during his life. He claimed an absolute authority over the other Kings; and by an ensign carried before him in the form of a globe, as a symbol of the union of the Heptarchial government in his person, he gave them to understand that he was not only their head but their master."* Edwin now demanded in marriage Ethelburgha, daughter of the late Ethelbert, the first Christian Kingf of the EngUsh, and sister of Ebald, Eadbald, or Ethelbald, King of Kent, a Princess of great beauty and virtue ; but his proposal met with a refusal which he, then in the acme of his power, had not expected. She was a Christian, and he yet an idolater. She would not renounce her faith for the splendour of a throne ; nor would she become the consort of Edwin, unless she might be aUowed the free exercise of her own religion. Edwin submitted to this, and Ethelburgha brought with her Paulinus, a Roman Missionary and Christian Bishop, as weU as Christian attendants. On Easter eve, in 626, the Queen was delivered of a daughter; and on Easter day an assassin, named Eumer, sent by Quichelm, King of the West Saxons, heing admitted into the presence of King Edwin, attempted to stab him with a poisoned dagger. He would have certainly killed him, if LiUa, his favourite and faithful minister, had not, for want of a buckler, inter posed his own body, and so saved the King's life with the loss of his own. ¦? AUen's History of Yorkshire, p. 28. ¦f According to Camden, the word " King" is derived from the Saxon Cyning, or Conyng, whioh signifies the same ; and that from can, " power," or ken, " knowledge," wherewith every monarch is supposed to be invested. The Latin rex, the Scythian reim, the Punio pesch, the Spanish rey, and the French roy, came aU, according to Postel, from the Hebrew rasch, " chief head." GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. 83 The dagger wounded the King through the body of his officer. The ruffian was cut to pieces upon the spot, but not before he had killed another of the courtiers. The King returned thanks to the gods for his preservation ; but Paulinus told him it was the effect of the prayers of his Queen, and exhorted him to thank the true God, for his merciful protection of his person, and for her safe delivery. The King was pleased with this discourse, and soon after he began to examine the subject of religion. He consented that his infant daughter should be consecrated to God, and she was baptized on Whit-Sunday, and called Eanfleda, being the first fruits of the kingdom of Northumbria. These things happened in the royal residence upon the Derwent, says Bede ; that is, near the Roman station Derventius, or Derventio, mentioned by Antoninus, in his Itinerary of Britain. The place is supposed to be near to Stamford Bridge, and is now called Aldby, that is. Old DweUing; and near to it Camden noticed the ruins of an old Castle. The King moreover promised Paulinus, that if God restored him his health, and made him victorious over those who had conspired so basely to take away his life, he would become himself a Christian. When his wound was healed, he assembled his army, marched against the King of the West Saxons, vanquished him in the field, and either slew or took prisoners all the authors of the wicked plot of his assassination. From this time he no more worshipped idols; yet he deferred to accomplish his promise of re ceiving baptism. Paulinus continued to exhort him, and to pray earnestly for his conversion ; and Edwin was willingly instructed in the faith, often meditated on it by himself, and consulted with the wisest among his great officers. Pope Boniface sent him an exhortatory letter, with presents ; and a silver looking-glass and an ivory comb to his Queen. At length a day was appointed when the subject of religion was to be discussed in the presence of the court ; Paulinus was to point out the evidences of Christianity, whilst Csefi, or, as it is written by Bede in the Northumbrian dialect, Coifi, Edwin's high priest, was to defend the idolatry of his fathers. The result of this discussion was that Coifi, the high priest of the idols, declared that by expe rience it was manifest that their gods had no power, and he advised the King to command fire to be set to the Pagan temples and altars. The King asked him who should first profane them. Coifi answered that he, himself, who had been the foremost in their worship, ought to do it for an example to others. Then he desired to be furnished with arms and a horse ; for, ac cording to their superstition, it was not lawful for the high priest to bear any arms, or to ride on a horse, but only a mare. Being thereupon mounted on the King's own horse, with a sword by his side, and a spear in his hand. 84 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. he rode to the temple, which he profaned by casting his spear into it. He then commanded those that accompanied him to puU it down, and burn it. The parish church of Godmanham, near Market Weighton, in the East Riding, now occupies the site of this temple. This place, says Bede, the venerable patriarch of Saxon history, writing in 731, is to the east of ,York, beyond the Derwent, and is caUed Godmundingham. Mr. Wright, in his Wanderings of an Antiquary, recently published, thinks it possible that Londesborough, may have been the site of King Edwin's residence, that place being but one mile distant from the Pagan temple. On Easter Day (April 12th, 627), King Edwin and several of his nobles were baptized by PauUnus at York, in a small wooden church or oratory, hastily erected, and dedicated to St. Peter. Edwin afterwards began a large church of stone, in which this was enclosed, and which was finished by St. Oswald, one of his successors. Paulinus fixed his episcopal See at York, with the approbation of King Edwin, and continued to preach freely during the remaining six years of this Prince's reign. The people flocked in crowds to receive the sacrament of baptism, and, as we have seen at pages 19 and 80, the good Bishop baptized them in multitudes in the rivers. When the King and Queen were at their country palace of Yeverin, in Glendale, among the Bernicians in Northumberland, the Bishop was occupied thirty-six days together, from morning tiU night, in instructing persons, and baptizing them in the little river Glen. When PauUnus was with the court in the country of the Deira, he baptized in the river' Swale, near Catterick. Edwin built a church near this place in honour of St. Alban, from which anew town arose, which was called Albansbury, and since Almondbury. The royal palace at that place was burnt by the Pagans after the death of King Edwin. His successors had their country palace in the territory of Loidis, or Leeds, where a town of that name was afterwards built. Edwin's reign, of seventeen years, is the brightest in the annals of the Heptarchy. He reclaimed his subjects from the licentious life to which they had been accustomed, and was distinguished for his strict and impartial ad ministration of justice. It was proverbial in his reign that a woman or child might openly carry from sea to sea a purse of gold without any danger of violence or robbery. As no inns or houses of public entertainment existed in those days, and as travelling was difficult and tedious, he caused stakes to be fixed in the highways near unto clear springs, and brazen dishes to be chained to them, to refresh the weary sojourner, whose fatigues Edwin had himself experienced. The English enjoyed so perfect tranquiUity and se curity throughout the dominions of King Edwin, that his peace was proverbial. GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 85 And his Christian virtues were very remarkable. He was eqnaUy zealous to practise himself, and to propagate on all sides the maxims and truths of Christianity, and after having spent six years in the practice of the Christian virtues, God was pleased to visit him with afflictions to raise him to the glory of martyrdom. Penda, the Pagan King of Mercia, united with Ceadwalla, King of Gwynez or North Wales, to destroy all the English Christians. Edwin met them at a place afterwards called Hevenfield* (now Heatfield or Hatfield), a village seven miles from Doncaster, and in a most bloody battle, fought October 12th, 683, lost his crown and life, in the 48th year of his age.* His head was buried in the porch of the church he had built at York, and the re mainder of his body was deposited in the Abbey of Whitby. The victors, now at the head of a vast array, ravaged the Kingdom of the Northumbers, and York, its capital, in a most barbarous manner. His only son, Osfrid, being slain with his father, Osric and Eanfrid, the two nearest relatives of Edwin, were chosen Kings of Deira and Bernicia ; but the former was defeated and slain in battle by the Welsh King, and his brother Eanfrid was crueUy and treacherously put to death by CeadwaUa, at York, in 634, though he came to that City with only twelve attendants, for the purpose of treating for peace. Osric and Eanfrid had formerly received baptism, the former from PauUnus, and the latter from the monks of St. Columba, at IcolmkiU ; but each relapsed into the errors of Paganism. The indignant piety of the Northumbrians expunged the names of these apostate Princes from the catalogue of their Kings, and the time in which they reigned was distinguished in their annals by the expressive term, " The unhappy year." Oswald, the younger of the sons of Ethelfrid, and nephew of Edwin, whose sister Acca was his mother, was called to the united throne of the Northum bers in 635. This Prince, who had in the preceding reign fled to Scotland, and embraced Christianity whilst in exile, assembled a small but valiant army, and marched into Northumberland against Ceadwalla, who had laid waste the country with fire and sword as far as the Picts' Wall. Oswald gave the tyrant battle at a place called by Bede, Denisburn, that is the brook Denis, adjoining the Picts' Wall on the north side, and gained a complete victory ; Ceadwalla (who used to boast that he had been born for the exter- minatien of the Angles), with the greater part of his army being slain on the field. Having thus firmly established himself on the Northumbrian throne, * This name was given to it on account of the great nuraber of Christians there slain in this engagement. * On St. Edwin see Bede Hist. i. ii., c. 9, 10, 13, 15, 20, 86 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. Oswald set himself to restore good order throughout his dominions, and to plant in them the faith of Christ. He entreated the King and Bishops of Ireland, then called Scotia, to send him a Bishop and assistants, by whose preaching the people whom he governed might be grounded in the Christian religion, and receive baptism. Aidan, a monk of the celebrated monastery of Hij, — a man no less venerable for his virtues, than eminent fur his learning, — was chosen for this great and arduous undertaking. The King bestowed on Aidan the Isle of Lindisfarne, since called Holy Island, for his episcopal seat, and thus was founded that ancient See which was afterwards removed to Durham. By the great labours of Aid^n, aided by the piety and munifi cence of Oswald, Christianity was firmly established, and maintained its influence amid all the wars and revolutions which succeeded. Oswald fiUed his dominions with churches and monasteries ; and his own virtues were so great and numerous, that many years after his death they procured for him the honour of canonization. During eight years Oswald reigned in such prosperity, that the Welsh, the Picts, and the Scots are said to have paid him tribute. But the fate of Edwin awaited Oswald. During a progress which he made in Shropshire, attended but by a few friends besides his domestic servants, Penda, the barbarous King of the Mercians, who envied the greatness of Oswald, and detested his religion — and who nine years before had slain the pious King Edwin — secretly raised an army, and endeavoured to accomplish by strata gem and surprise, what he dare not attempt in open battle. The treacherous and cowardly wretch fiercely assaulted and killed Oswald at Masserfield, since called Oswestry, or Osweltre, that is, Oswald's Cross, about seven miles from Shrewsbury; and he had the ferocity to cause the head and limbs to be severed from the trunk, and fixed on high poles driven in the ground as trophies of his victory.* This treacherous act was performed on the 5th of * Camden, Capgrave, and others think this is the place where St. Oswald was slain ; but Alban Butler imagines the scene of his death to be Winwich, in Lancashire, which was anciently called Maserfield, or Maserfelth, and where is a well still called St. Oswald's, which was formerly visited out of devotion. There are many churches in England dedicated to God in honour of St. Oswald. The year after his martyrdom, his brother Oswy took his body ,off the poles upon which the tyrant had affixed them ; he sent the head lo Lindisfarne, and it was afterwards put in the same shrine with the body of St. Cuthbert, and was with it translated to Durham, as the Malmsbury historian and others assure us. The rest of St. Oswald's body was then translated to the monas tery of Bardney in Lincolnshire. Part of the relics were afterwards translated to the Abbey of St. Winoc's Berg, in Flanders, in 1221, and deposited there with great solem nity by Adam, Bishop of Terouanne. St. Aidan, the first Bishop of lindisfarne, was also canonized. GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. 87 August, 642. Penda afterwards ravaged Northumbria, but the Royal Castle of Bebbaborough (Bamborough, in Northumberland) was the first place that ventured to stop his destructive progress. Situated on a rock, and protected on one side by a steep ascent, and on the other side by the German Ocean, it bade defiance to the tyrant. But here he displayed the ferocity of his dis position. By his order the neighbouring viUages were demolished, every combustible material was coUected from the ruins and reared up in an im mense pile against the walls, and as soon as the wind blew fiercely towards the City, fire was set to the pile. But as the fire and smoke was being wafted over the heads of the trembling inhabitants, the wind suddenly changed, and the fire spent its fury in the opposite direction. Chagrined and confounded, Penda raised the siege, evacuated the kingdom, and turned his arms against the King of East Anglia. Soon after his retreat in 643, the Northumbrian Thanes placed Oswy or Oswio, the brother of Oswald, on the united throne, but in the second year of his reign appeared a dangerous competitor of the house of Ella, in the person of Oswin, the son of Osric ; and prudence or necessity induced him to consent to a compromise, and Oswin was crowned King of Deira, whilst he reserved to himself Bernicia and the northern conquests. Oswy, who was never pleased at this division of the kingdoni, afterwards asserted his claim to the throne of Deira, and obliged Oswin to arm in his own defence. According to Bede, Oswin was of a religious rather than a martial disposition ; and regarding it criminal to shed the blood of his sub jects for the support of his throne, he privately withdrew from his army, with the intention of taking refuge in a monastery ; but before he could execute his design, he was betrayed to Oswy, who inhumanly murdered him in the hopes of more easily seizing his kingdom. The people of Deira, however, dreading the dominion of so cruel a Prince, immediately elected his nephew, Adelwald, or Odilwald, son of his brother Oswald, as their King, and thus was Oswy foiled in his ambition. Adelward commenced his reign in 652, and for three years the Kingdom of Deira experienced an interval of peace. Oswy still persevered in his claim to this kingdom, and Adelwald, fearing that his uncle would seize the first opportunity to execute his designs, listened to a proposal of a league with the Kings of Mercia and East Anglia against the King of Bemicia. The Mer cian King, seeing himself supported by the armies of East Anglia and Deira, refused every overture of peace, and Oswy was obUged to try the fortune of war with three powerful enemies. The night before the eventful contest he fervently implored the assistance of heaven, and vowed if he was victorious to 88 GENEEAL HlSTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. devote his infant daughter Elfleda to the service of God in monastic seclusion. But while the two armies were advancing to the scene of action, Adelwald was forming new projects ; he wisely considered that to whichever side the victory inclined, it would be equally dangerous to him, and that the ambition of Penda, as well as of Oswy, might hurl him from his throne. Hfe therefore resolved to stand neuter during the battle, and save his own troops, in order to defend his dominions against the conqueror. Penda attacked the Ber nicians with great impetuosity ; but as soon as the Mercians saw Adelwald draw off his division they suspected some treachery, and began to give way, and no possible effort could rally them. The Kings of Mercia and East Anglia were slain, and their armies routed with terrible slaughter. Thus feU the cruel and treacherous Penda, after he had stained his sword with the blood of two Northumbrian Kings — Edwin and Oswald ; and three Kings of East AngUa — Sigebert, Egric, and Annas. With this hoary veteran, who was eighty years old, and who had reigned thirty years, feU twenty-eight vassal chieftains, or commanders of royal blood. This derisive battle was fought at Winwidfield (Winmoor), or Field of Victory, situated on the northern bank of the river Winwald, now Aire, near Loyden, now Leeds, on the 15th of November, 655. After the battle Oswy overran the kingdoms of the faUen monarchs, and subdued the astonished inhabitants. Mercia he divided into two portions ; the province on the north of the Trent he annexed to his own dominions ; those on the south he allowed to be governed by Peada, the son of Penda, who had married his daughter. But Peada soon after perished by the treachery, it is said, of his wife, and his territory was immediately occu pied by the Northumbrians. In fulfllment of his vow, Oswy placed his child Elfleda, who was not yet one year old, under the care of the Abbess HUda, at Hartlepool ; and her dower was fixed at 120 hides of land in Bernicia, and at an equal number in Deira. This munificent donation enabled the sisterhood to remove their establishment to a more convenient situation at Whitby, where the royal nun Uved the space of fifty-nine years in the practice of the monastic duties, during one half of which she exercised the office of Abbess. The King soon afterwards, stung with remorse for the murder of Oswin, founded and en dowed another monastery at GUling, on the very spot in which that Prince had been slain ; and the community of monks were bound to pray daUy for the soul of the murdered King, and for that of the royal murderer.* Oswy had now under his control a greater extent of territory than had belonged • Bede, iii., 24. Nennius, o, 64, GENEEAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. 89 to any of his predecessors ; but long before his death the tyrannical conduct of his officers caused the Mercians to revolt, and expel the Northumbrians ; and the sceptre was conferred on Wulphere, the youngest son of Penda, who had been anxiously concealed from the researches of Oswy. A few years afterwards Adelwald died without issue, and Northumbria was again united in one kingdom under Oswy. But this re-union was of short duration, for Alchfrid, his eldest son, demanded a portion of the Northum brian territory, with the title of King. It is not clear what means he used to oblige his father to give up to him the Kingdom of Deira, but this is certain that Oswy was induced to divide with him his dominions ; and thus did he resign that Crown which he so long and so anxiously desired to unite with his own. Christianity had now been preached in all the Saxon* kingdoms except Sussex, but as the missionaries had come from different countries, though they taught the same doctrine, they disagreed in several points of ecclesias tical discipline. Of these the most important regarded the canonical time for the celebration of Easter, a subject which had for several centuries dis turbed the peace of the church. It was universaUy admitted that it depended on the commencement of the equinoctial lunation ; but the Roman astrono mers differed from the Alexandrinian, the former contending that the luna tion might begin as early as the 5 th, whilst the latter maintained that it could not begin before the 8th of March. The consequence of this diversity of opinion was, that when the new moon fell on the 5th, 6th, or 7th of that month, the Latin celebrated the feast of Easter a fuU lunation before the Greek Christians. Weary of the disputes occasioned by these computations, the Roman church, in the middle of the sixth century, had adopted a new cycle, which agreed in every important point with the Alexandrinian calcula tion. But this arrangement was unknown to the British Christians, who at that period were whoUy employed in opposing the invaders of their country ; and they continued to observe the ancient cycle, which was now become peculiar to themselves. Hence it occasionally happened that Easter and the other festivals de pending on that solemnity, were celebrated at different times by the Saxon Christians, according as they had been instructed by the Scottish, or hy the Roman and GaUic missionaries; and thus did Oswy see his own family divided into factions, and the same festivals solemnized on different days in his own palace. Wilfrid, afterwards Archbishop of York, having been in structed at Rome in the discipline of the church, was requested by Alchfrid the son of Oswy, to instruct him and his people in ecclesiastical discipline ; ay GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. and Oswy, desirous to end the dispute and to procure uniformity, summoned the champions of the two parties to meet at the monastery at Streaneshalch, now Whitby, in 664, The Kings, Oswy and Alchfrid, were present at this conference. Wilfrid rested the cause of the Romans on the authority of St. Peter, and the practice of the universal church ; and after a long debate it appeared clear to the great majority of the monks and ecclesiastics present, that those were in error who differed in this and other matters from the practice of the Ronian Church. Rapin and some others pretend that the Scots or Irish and the Britons were for some time schismatics in consequence of these matters ; but these writers are mistaken, fpr the Saxon Christians did not coincide with the Quartodecimans, who had been condemned by the church, nor had this difference between them and the universal church then proceeded to a br«ach of comrnunion,* Soon after this conference the See of Canterbury became vacant by the death of Deusdedit ; Oswy consulted with Egbert, the King of Kent, and by their concurrence the presbyter Wighard, who had been chosen to succeed to the Archiepiscopal dignity, was sent to Rome to ask the advice of the Apostolic See on the subject of discipline. But the new prelate died at Rome of a dreadful^nd fatal pestUence, which was then ravaging Britain and Ireland, and which he had escaped in his own country. In a letter from Pope Vitalian to Oswy, announcing his death, the Pontiff assures the King, that he would select for the See of Canterbury a person equal to so exalted a sta,tion ; and, after some delay, the learned and virtuous Thepdorus, a monk of Tarsus, was landed in Kent with the title of Archbishop of Britain. His authority was immediately acknowledged by aU the Saxon prelates, synods were held, and uniformity of discipline was everywhere observed. Oswy died in 670, in the 29th year of his reign, and the sceptre of North umbria was transferred to the hands of Egfrid, or Ecgfrid, his son by Anfleda the daughter of Edwin. Some writers say that Alchfrid, his eldest son, was still alive, but rejected on account of illegitimacy, and that he ascended the throne after the death of Egfrid ; others assert that he ruled in Deira up to about the time of his father's death, when his subjects revolted against him, and he retired to Ireland, where he devoted himself to learning and piety untU the death of Egfrid, But Dr. Lingard teUs us, that after a diligent examination of Bede, it appeared to him that these writers have confounded Alchfrid and Aldfrid, and made thfe two but one person. Aldfrid, who was iUegitimate, and thought to be the son of Oswy, Uved in spontaneous exUe in • Bede iii., 25, 26. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 91 Ireland, through his desire pf knowledge, and was called to the throne after the decease of the legitimate offspring of Oswy. Though the royal families of Northumbria and Mercia were alUed by marriage, the ambition of Egfrid led him to invade that kingdom in 679. A conflict toek place on the banks of the Trent, but peace was restored by the interposition of Archbishop Theodorus.* In 685 this restless monarch, who laboured incessantly to preserve and enlarge his dominions, invaded the territories of the Picts, for the purpose of depredation or conquest, and was kiUed by them in battle in the fortieth year of his age, and the fifteenth of his reign. Egfrid dying without issue, the Northumbrian Thanes offered the Crown to Alfred, or Aldfrid, the reputed but iUegitimate son of Egfrid. During the last reign, as has just been inti mated, he had retired to the western isles, and had devotlfl the time of his exile to study, under the instruction of the Irish monks. His proficiency obtained for him from his contemporaries the title of the learned King. He displayed great moderation and virtue in governing his kingdorii, and after reigning happily for nineteen years, he died in 705, and is said to have been buried at Little Driffield, in the East Riding of Yorkshire. Osred, the eldest son of Alfred, a chUd eight years of age, succeeded his father. During the minority of this Prince, a nobleman, named Eadulph, usurped the sceptre, and besieged the royal infant and his guardian iri the strong fortress of Bamborough ; but the nobles and people rising in the defence of their Sove reign, the usurper was taken prisoner, and put to death, after a tumultuous reign of two months. Osred, however, as he advanced towards manhood, lost, by his Ucentious conduct, the affections of the people, which Ceonred and Osric (two brothers, desceridants of a natural son of Ida, the first Anglo- Saxon King of Northumbria), perceiving, formed a party against him, and were supported by the whole body of the clergy. At length they raised the standard of revolt, and Osred was defeated and slain on the banks of Wi- nandermere, in 716, being the nineteenth year of his age, aud the eleventh of his reign. Ceonred, who then mounted the throne, died in 718, and was succeeded by his brother Osric, who reigned peaceably eleven years, but was slain in 730. The next King of Northumbria was Ceolwulf, the brother of his predecessor, who, in the eighth year of his reign, voluntarily retired to the Monastery of Lindisfarne, where he passed the remainder of his life. Ceolwulf was the patron of the Venerable Bede, the ecclesiastical historian. In the year 737, Eadbert, the cousin of Ceolwulf, was crowned, and, after ¦!¦ Bede iv., c. 21. 92 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. enlarging his kingdom, and reigning twenty-one years, he foUowed the ex ample of his predecessor, by seeking the peaceful tranquilUty of the cloister. This monarch's brother was Archbishop of York. Oswulf, the son and suc cessor of Eadbert, was assassinated in 758, in the first year of his reign; his Thanes having conspired against him. The next Northumbrian Monarch was Mol Edilwold, who, though not of royal blood, was raised to the throne by the suffrage of the people. He too was conspired against, and put to death by Alchrid, a descendant of Ida, who usurped the throne in 765. This monarch reigned nine years ; but in 774 he was expeUed ; and Ethel red, the son of Edilwold, was chosen in his stead. This Prince was obliged by his subjects to abdicate, and seek refuge in a neighbouring king dom in 779. Alfwold, the soft of Oswulf, and grandson of Eadbert, was now placed on the throne ; and though he reigned eleven years, honoured and beloved, yet he yielded up his life at the hands of the Ealdorman Sigan. The murderer put a period to his own existence five years later. In 785 Pope Adrian sent two papal legates, the Bishops of Ostia and Tudertum, to England. Soon after their arrival they convoked two synods, the one in Northumbria, the other in Mercia. At the latter synod, which was attended by all the Princes and prelates in the country, the legates read a code of ecclesiastical laws, composed by the Sovereign Pontiff, for the government of the Anglo-Saxon Church. It was heard with respect, and subscribed by all the members.* In 789 Osred U., son of Alchred, was advanced to the throne of Northum bria, and the following year' he was deposed by the Thanes, and he retired to the Isle of Man. Ethelred, was then recalled, and returned with a thirst for revenge, and was replaced on the throne. Soon after his restoration he ordered Eardulf, one of his most powerful opponents, to be slain at the door of the Church of Ripon. The monks carried the body into the choir, and, during the funeral service, it was observed to breathe ; proper remedies were applied to the wounds, and the future King of Northumbria recovered, and was carefully concealed in the monastery. This act of cruelty was foUowed by the murder of Elf and Elwin, the two sons of King Alfwold. Osred now returned from the Isle of Man, and braved his rival to battle ; but he was deserted by his followers, and added another to the victims of Ethelred's ambition. This monster repudiated his own wife, and married the daughter of Offa, the powerful King of Mercia. In the third year of his reign a total • Saxon Chronicle, 64. WUk. Con. p. 153, 164. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 93 failure of the harvest reduced the inhabitants to famine, to which were soon added the ravages of pestUence ; and to complete their misfortunes, an army of Danes landed on the coast, pUlaged the country, and destroyed the vene rable Church of Lindisfarne. All these calamities were attributed to the imprudence of Ethelred ; and in the fourth year of his restoration he fell in a fruitless attempt to quell the rising discontent of his subjects.* The ad herents of Osbald now placed him on the throne ; but after a short reign of twenty-seven days, the opposite faction gained the ascendancy, and Osbald was deposed, and found safety in a monastery. Eardulf, whose life had been saved by the monks of Ripon, then grasped the sceptre, stained by the blood of so many Princes ; but civil dissensions had now prevailed to an alarming extent, and in 808 he was obliged to fly from the fury of his rebelUous subjects, and take refuge 'in the Court of Charlemagne. Alfwald, the head of the faction by which Eardulf was driven from his kingdom, undertook to sway this dangerous sceptre ; but he reigned only two years, and his death left the Crown to Eanred, in whose reign the Anglo-Saxon Kingdom of Northumbria ceased to be independent. During the last century Northumbria had exhibited successive instances of treachery and murder, to which no other country perhaps can furnish a paraUel. The monarchs, with few exceptions, were restless and ambitious, and the inconstancy of the Thanes was fatal to the ambition of the Monarchs. Out of the fourteen Kings who had assumed the sceptre during that century, only one, if one, died in the peaceable possession of royalty; seven were slain, and six were banished from the throne by their rebeUious subjects. And the same anarchy and perfidy prevailed tUl the Danes totally extin guished the Northumbrian dynasty, by the slaughter of Ella and Osbert, in the year 867. Egbert, the only remaining Prince of the house of Cedric — deriving his descent from that Conqueror, through Inigils, the brother of Ina — having been compeUed to quit this country, was well received at the Court of Char lemagne. For three years he had enjoyed considerable command, in the armies of that Emperor; and having improved the period of his exile in acquiring a proficiency in the arts of war and government, he returned to Britain, and was caUed to the throne of Northumbria; and by his eminent abihties and great experience, he was enabled to unite the seven kingdoms of the Heptarchy into one monarchy, about 390 years after the first arrival of the Saxons in this country. * Saxon Chron. 64, 65. 94 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. The authority acquired by Egbert over the tributary kingdoms was very soon weakened by the incursions of the Danes. Their invasions gradually became more frequent and formidable ; and while the Kings of Wessex, suc cessors of Egbert, were fully employed in defending their own dominions, they could only maintain a precarious sovereignty over the other kingdoms. Those rapacious, restless, and cruel Spoilers, the Danes, in whom we do not find a single redeeming virtue, made their first appearance on our shores about the year 787,* but they did not succeed in forming a permanent establishment until a.d. 867, in which year they fitted up a mighty fleet, . and taking advantage of the party divisions of the inhabitants, during the inauspicious reign of Ethelred, invaded the kingdom, penetrated with com plete success into the northern districts, and secured to themselves the sceptre of Northumbria. In proceeding through the country they burnt cities, destroyed churches, wasted the land, overturned everything in their way, and with the most barbarous cruelty murdered the Kings of the East Angles and Mercians. " Language cannot describe their devastations. It can only repeat the terms — plunder, murder, rape, famine, and distress. It can only enumerate towns, viUages, churches, and monasteries, harvests, and libraries, ransacked and burnt. But by the incessant repetition, the horrors are diminished ; and we read, without emotion, the narrative of deeds which rent the hearts of thousands with anguish, and inflicted wounds on human happiness, and human improvement, which ages with difficulty healed."-!" " Expunge the name of one King from their records,'' says a learned writer, in speaking of the Danes, " and their political existence in England exhibits nothing but a deformed mass of perfldy and slaughter, profligacy and crime." The Northumbrians being the riaost remote from Wessex, at length re covered their independence, and Osbert, or Orbrightus, was raised to the throne. Discord and party spirit, which for such a length of time disturbed the kingdom, and which for a while seemed to be extinguished, was revived by the licentious tyranny of the new King, and the flames of civil War were soon enkindled in Northumb'ria. Returning one day from hunting, Osbert caUed at the mansion of one of his nobles, named Bruern Brocard, guardian of the sea coasts, and not flnding him at home, violated by force the chastity • Hoveden, p. 40. t Turn. Aug. Sax., vol. ii., p. 130. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. ^0 of his wife. To revenge this insult, Bruern excited a revolt of the Bernicians ; Osbert was declared unworthy to govern, and another King, named Ella, was elected to the throne of Bernicia. Thus was Northumbria once more divided between two Kings, and two factions, who were continually aiming at each other's destruction. No sooner was the Bernician monarch seated on the throne, than he, stimulated by Earl Bruern, endeavoured to dispossess Osbert of the Crown of Deira, and a sanguinary civil war ensued, in which the equality of the forces of the two Kings prevented the scale turning on either side. At length Bruern rashly and inconsiderately resolved to sail to Den mark, and to solicit assistance, which was but too readUy granted. Urged by ambition and revenge, the King of Denmark eagerly entered into the enterprise. His revenge is said to have been excited by the aUeged cruel treatment of a Danish General, named Lothbroc, the father of Hinguar and Hubba, who being alone in a small boat, was driven by accident to the coast of Norfolk. Historians tell us, that he was well received and hospitably treated at the Court of Edmund, King of the East Angles ; that he was an accompUshed sportsman, and became so conspicuous for his dexterity, as to obtain a distinguished place in the royal favour. That Bern, the King's huntsman, growing jealous of him, took an opportunity of drawing him to a thicket, where he murdered him, and concealed the body. That the corpse was discovered by means of Lothbroc's dog ; that Bern was tried and found guUty of the murder, and the sentence passed upon him was, that he should be put into the murdered man's boat, and without tackling or provision, com mitted to the mercy of the waves. That the boat, by a singular fataUty, was cast upon the coast of Denmark, and that being known, Bern was appre hended, and examined concerning the fate of Lothbroc. That in order to exculpate himself, Bern told the Danish authorities, that Lothbroc had, by the Bang's command, been thrown into a pit, and stung to death by serpents. They add that Bruern arrived in Denmark shortly after this circumstance, and that measures were speedily concerted for the invasion of Deira. But Dr. Lingard gives a different version of the cause of this descent of the Danes, on the authority of Asser, Ingulphus, the Saxon Chronicle, Leland, and Turner. He teUs us, that during the reign of Ethelbert, King of Wessex, the predecessor of Ethelred, one of the most adventurous and successful of the Sea-Kings, or pirate chieftains, named Ragnar Lodbrog, constructed a number of large ships for the purpose of invading England ; that owing to the unskilfulness of the mariners, or the violence of the weather, the vessels were wrecked on the coast of Northumbria. That Ragnar, with several of his followers reached the shore, and heedless pf the consequences, commenced 9b GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. their usual career of depredation. That Ella flew to the coast, fought with the plunderers, made Ragnar prisoner, and put him to death ; and that his sons, Inguar and Ubbo, who swore to avenge the murder, collected to their standard the combined forces of eight Sea-Kings, with twenty Jarls, con sisting of several thousand warriors, and in the reign of Ethelred landed on the coast of East Anglia without opposition.* It seems certain however that soon after the death of Ragnar, that a mighty fleet, commanded by the two brothers, Hinguar and Hubba, entered the Humber, and spread terror and dismay all over the country. The Northumbrians being whoUy ignorant of their design, were not in readiness to dispute their landing, consequently they soon became masters of the northern shore, and having burnt and des troyed the towns on the Holderness coast, they marched directly towards York, where Osbert was preparing an army to oppose them. In this great extremity Osbert was constrained to apply to his mortal foe, EUa, for assistance, and to the great credit of the latter, he wUlingly agreed to suspend their private quarrel, and join forces against the common enemy. Without waiting the arrival of Ella's reinforcement, Osbert sallied out of York, and attacked the Danes so vigorously, that they could hardly stand the shock. But pressing in their turn, the Danes compelled the British army to retire without any order into the City. Osbert, in endeavouring to raUy his scattered troops, was slain in the retreat with a great number of his men. The victors now entered York in triumph, whilst EUa was advancing in hopes of repairing the loss Osbert had sustained by his impatience. Hini- guar having conquered one of the Kings, went out to meet the other, and a battle no less bloody, and fatal to the English, ensued. EUa was kiUed, and his army entirely routed. Some historians state that Ella was not slain in the battle but taken prisoner, and that Hinguar ordered him to be flayed alive in revenge for his father's murder. Hov^en thus describes the horrible sufferings of the inhabitants of York on this occasion: — "By the General's cruel orders they knocked down' aU the boys ; young and old men they met in the City, and cut their throats ; matrons and virgins were ravished at pleasure ; the husband and wife, either dead or dying, were tossed together ; the infant, snatched from its mother's breast, was carried to the threshold, and there left butchered at its parent's door, to make the general outcry more hideous." According to the same authority, as well as that of the Saxon Chronicle, this battle was fought on the 21st of March, 867. • Lingard's Hist, of England, vol. i. p. 155, Fop. Svo. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 97 The Kingdom of Northumbria was thus conquered by the Danes, after it had been in the possession of the Saxons for 320 years. Hinguar now ap pointed his brother Hubba Governor of York, and gave him also the com mand of the newly-won kingdom. A deputy Governor, named Godram, with a garrison under his command, was left in the City, whUst the two brothers pushed their conquests southwards. In 870, Hinguar and Hubba returned to York, and constituted Egbert, a Saxon, devoted to their cause. King of Northumbria. He was, however, soon deposed, and Ringsidge, a Dane, was proclaimed King. The populace of York, being much enraged at this, mur dered the Dane, and restored Egbert. His second reign was of short duration, for the Danes, increasing in power, divided the Kingdom of Northumbria amongst three of their own officers. Sithrio, a Dane, and Nigel his brother, reigned beyond the Tyne in the year 877; and Reginald, also a Dane, governed the City of York, and all the country between the rivers Tyne and Humber, at the same period. The success of the Danes in Northumbria, as weU as in the south, compelled the Anglo-Saxon Kings and Princes to con federate for mutual defence, and by the skill and wisdom of Alfred the Great, King of Wessex, the invaders were subdued in 880, after that renowned monarch had emerged from his retreat in a swineherd's cottage. To prevent the rapine and disorders which formerly prevailed in the realm, Alfred divi ded part of the Kingdom into Counties, Hundreds, and Tithings, caused the inhabitants of each district to be made responsible for the damage committed by lawless mobs, established trial by jury, and composed a body of laws on which the glorious superstructure of English liberty was finally erected. He was not less generous than brave, and by acts of kindness, sought tb convert the Danes from deadly enemies to faithful subjects. Alfred may be con sidered as the first King of the Anglo-Saxons ; but to Athelstan, as we shaU see, belongs the credit of being the founder of the English monarchy, for after the battle of Brunanburh he had no competitor. The restless spirit of the Danes not brooking restraint, they re-commenced hostilities, but after plundering Mercia, in 910, they were again defeated, in a desperate battle in the north, by Edward the Elder, son and successor of the Great Alfred, when two of their Kings, ¦ Halfden and EowUs, brothers of Hinguar, and several thousands of their soldiers were slain. At this period, Edward, with the Mercians and West Saxons, ravaged the principal part of Northumbria for nearly five weeks. This decisive victory established the superiority of the Anglo-Saxon monarch over the ruthless Dane. Athelstan, the successor of Edward, com peUed Sithrio and Nigel tc submit tP his victcrious arms ; but upon doing 98 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. homage, they were allowed to keep their possessions. In 926, Sithric ob tained the daughter of Athelstan in marriage, on condition that he would turn Christian ; but dying the first year of his marriage, his sons, Godfrid and Anlaff, whom he had by a former wife, stirred up a rebellion among the Northumbrian Danes. This drew upon them the indignation of Athelstan, who attacked and reduced the whole of Northumbria, except the Castle of York, which was very strong and well garrisoned. One of the Danish Princes now fled to Scotland, and the other to Ireland, whence they returned in three years afterwards (in 937) with a great body of Norwegians, Danes, Irish, Scotch, and Welsh soldiers. Anlaff entered the Humber with a fleet of 615 sail, landed his forces, and marched to York before the King had any intelligence of it, and were soon joined by the confederated Scotch and British Princes. Athelstan, who not content with his own forces, had pur chased the aid of several Sea-Kings, was soon approaching the north. As he passed through Beverley, he visited the Church, offered his dagger on the altar, and vowed to redeem it, if he returned victorious, at a price worthy of a King. In a few days afterwards the famous battle of Bromford, or Bru nanburh, in Northumbria, was fought, in which Athelstan gained a complete victory, the army of the Princes being entirely destroyed. This engagement, which is celebrated in the reUcs of Saxon and Scandina vian poetry, lasted from morning till sunset. A contemporary writer teUs us that in the English army waved a hundred banners, and round each banner were ranged a thousand warriors. " Never," says the native poet, " since the arrival of the Saxons and Angles, those artists in war, was such a carnage known in England." Constantine, the King of Scotland, saved himself by a precipitate flight, after his son and most of his men had been slaughtered ; and amongst the slain were six petty Kings of Ireland and Wales, and twelve general officers. To prevent future rebellion, Athelstan proceeded to York, and rased the Castle, which was the principal bulwark of the Danish power, to the ground. The conqueror, in his return from the battle, redeemed his dagger from the Church of Beverley, with a grant of ample and valuable privileges. This decisive victory confirmed the ascendency of Athelstan ; the British Princes no longer disputed his authority, and his power became pre dominant in Britain. To him, therefore, belongs the glory of having established what has ever since being called the Kingdom of England ; and he, himself, undoubtedly, was the first Monarch of England. His prede cessors, tiU the reign of Alfred the Great, had been styled the Kings of Wessex. Alfred and his son Edward assumed the title of Kings of the Anglo-Saxons ; and Athelstan sometimes caUed himself King of the English, GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 99 but at other times he claimed the more pompous designation of King of All Britain. But in the course of a century the latter title feU into disuse, and the former has been retained to the present age. Athelstan died, much regretted by his subjects and the surrounding nations, on the 27th of October, 941, and was buried in the Abbey of Malmsbury, where he had deposited the remains of Elfwin and Ethelwin, who fell at Bromford. This monarch, dying without heirs, was succeeded on the throne of England by Edmund, eldest son of Edward, the predecessor of Athelstan, then about seventeen years of age. The turbulent spirit of the Northum brians, which Athelstan had kept under some restraint, soon broke out after his death. Anlaff, who had fled to Ireland, was invited to hazard a third time the fortune of war ; and having by the promise of a large sum of money, obtained a considerable force from Olaus, King of Norway, the Humber, in a few weeks, was covered by a numerous fleet of foreign adventurers. The operations of the campaign are involved in much obscurity, but in a short time the whole of Northumbria submitted to his arms. In 942 Anlaff attacked the kingdom of Mercia, but Edmund gave him battle near Chester, and neither side being able to claim the victory, a peace was concluded through the mediation of Odo and Wulstan, the Archbishops of Canterbury and York. By this treaty Edmund gave up aU the country north of the Roman highway, Watling Street, which divides England into two parts. But the kingdom of Northumbria is once more about to be divided. The people, during the absence of Anlaff, sent for his nephew Reginald, and crowned him King at York. Anlaff prepared for resistance ; hut through the intervention of Edmund, who was backed by a powerful army, it was agreed that Anlaff should retain the Crown of Deira, whilst Reginald swayed the sceptre of Bernicia* It was also stipulated that the two Kings should swear fealty to Edmund, and embrace the Christian religion ; and the ceremony of their baptism was performed in the Cathedral by Archbishop Wulstan. In 944 hostUities recommenced — Edmund again successfuUy opposed them, and obliged the two Kings to quit the island. Edmund died sole monarch of England in 946, and his sons being in infancy, he was succeeded by his brother Edred, whose reign was principaUy distinguished by the flnal subju gation of Northumbria. He proceeded to that country, and received from * Dr. Lingard says, that Anlaff died the next year after he concluded the treaty with Edmund, and that it was after his death that Northumbria was again divided. He states that after the kingdoms were divided, the two Kings were Anlaff and Eeginald, but he does not teU us who they were, but he distinctly states that Anlaff was the second of that name in Northumbria. Lingard's Eng., vol. i., p. 209. Fop. Svo, 100 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. the natives the usual oaths of fidelity ; but the obedience of the Northum brians lasted only as long as they were overawed by his presence. He was no sooner departed, than they expelled his officers, and set his authority at defiance. Anlaff was again invited to return to York, he obeyed the invita tion, and obtained possession of the whole of Northumbria, which he retained for four years. In 950 another revolt took place, in which Anlaff was deposed ; and Eric, who had been driven from Norway by his brother Haco, the King of that country, aud who had wandered for years a pirate on the ocean, and landed on the northern coast, was saluted King, and caUed to the throne in his stead. Now followed a civil war hetween the factions of Eric and Anlaff; and when all was in confusion, Edred, at the head of an army, marched to tha north, subdued the contending parties, severely punished the perfidy of the rebels, obliged Eric to flee into Scotland, threatened to destroy the whole country with fire and sword, and even commenced the execution of his threat by burning the Monastery of Ripon, He, however, soon relented, pardoned the offending people, and replaced Eric on the throne of Northumbria. When Edred left York, the Danes pursued him, and furiously attacked hia forces on the banks of the river Aire (at Oastleford), but were repulsed. Edred returned to York to chastise the people for rebeUion, upon which the inhabitants, to save themselves from his just indignation, renounced Eric, and put him to death, and they also slew Amac, the son of Anlaff'; these Princes having been the chief instigators of their treachery. Edred spared the City, but dissolved their monarchial government, and reduced the Kingdom of Northumbria to an Earldom, of which York was constituted the capital, and Osulf, or Osluff, an Anglo-Saxon, or Englishman, became the first Earl. This final subjugation of the great northern Kingdom took place in 961. The chief residence of the Earls or Viceroys, like the ancient Kings of Northumbria, was at York. In this reign the north of England, Uke the rest of the kingdom, was divided into Shires, Ridings, and Wapentakes, and a number of officers appointed for their superintendence. Edgar, who suc ceeded Edred on the throne of England, appointed Oslac to join Osulf in the government of the north, but the authority of these two officers was sub sequently united in the person of Waltheof, the second Earl. During the reign of Ethelred, the Danes became so turbulent, that he attempted to destroy their power by secretly ordering them to be massacred on St. Brice's day, the 13th of November, 1002. The slaughter on that fatjl day was great in the southern part of England, but in the north they were too numerously intermingled with the Saxons to be sentenced to assassination. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 101 Among the thousands who fell was the Lady Gunhilda, sister to Sweyne, King of Denmark, who had been sent as hostage, on condition of peace, together with her husband, PaUg. This detestable act, which wUl cover the name of Ethelred with eternal infamy, so inflamed the Danes with indig nation, that in a short time the Saxons became the sport of a revengeful enemy. To revenge the wrongs of his countrymen, Sweyne, undertook the conquest of England. In 1018 he entered the Humber with a large fleet, and having destroyed the country on both sides of the river, he proceeded to York, and encamped on the banks of the Ouse. Ethelred, with an army augmented by a number of Soots, gave him battle, but the English monarch was defeated, and seizing a boat, fled to the Isle of Wight, and thence to Normandy, leaving his crown and kingdom to the conqueror. Sweyne died at Gainsborough in 1014, and his son Canute was proclaimed King, but being obliged to return to Denmark, the English in his absence recalled their exiled monarch, who ruled by force of arms over the southern parts of the island till his death in 1016. Canute afterwards became the greatest and most powerful monarch of his time, and was sumamed " the great." Though he was Sovereign of Denmark and Norway as well of England, yet he was not so blinded by his good fortune, as to credit the flattery of his courtiers, who would fain have persuaded him that he was aU but omnipotent. The well-known reproof given by him to his fawning courtiers is so just and impressive, that its memory has survived through eight centuries. Some of those flatterers breaking out into ex pressions of admiration of his power and grandeur, exclaimed, that in him everything was possible. Upon which Canute ordered his chair to be placed upon the sea-shore while the tide was rising. As the waters approached, he commanded them with a voice of authority to retire, and to obey the lord of the ocean. For some time he feigned to sit in expectation of their sub mission, but the sea stiU advanced towards him, and began to wash him with its billows ; on which he turned to his courtiers, and said, " Behold how feeble and impotent is man. Power resideth in one being alone, in whose hands are the elements of nature, and who alone can say to the ocean^ — Thus far thou shalt go and no further, and who can level with his nod the most towering pUes of pride and ambition." The chroniclers fix the locality of this great moral lesson at Southampton. Canute died in this country in 1035, and was succeeded in his British dominions by Harold, his second son, surnamed Harefoot. This monarch was succeeded by Hardicanute, a licentious tyrant, who died two years after his accession, at the nuptials of a Danish lord, at Lambeth. The next 102 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. Danish claimant to the British Crown was named Sweyne, but Edward the Confessor, though not the hereditary descendant, was raised to the throne by the voice of the people.* History is almost silent concerning the first seven Earls of Northumbria — • Osulf, Waltheof, Uthred, Hircus, Eadulf, Aldred, and Eadulf 11. ; but the last three — Siward, Tosti, Teste, or Tostig, brother to Harold, and Morcar, make a conspicuous figure in the annals of the country. Siward, the eighth Earl, was a man of extraordinary strength and valour. He was appointed by Edward the Confessor to lead an army of 10,000 men into Scotland, to aid Malcolm against the usurper Macbeth, whom he slew, and set the former on the throne of Scotland.f When this brave old warrior was on his death-bed at York, and reduced to the last extremity by disease, he exclaimed, " Oh ! what a shame it is for me, who have escaped death in so many dangerous battles, to die like a beast at last. Put me on my impenetrable coat of mail," added he, " gird ou my sword, place on my helmet, give me my shield in my right hand, and my golden battle-axe in my left ; thus as a valiant soldier I have Uved, even so wUl I die." It is recorded that his friends obeyed this injunction, which was no sooner done than he expired. He died in 1055, and his body was buried in the Church of St. Olave, at York. Tosti, second son of Earl God win, minister of state, succeeded Siward in the Earldom of Northumbria, but his rule was so cruel and tyrannical, that, in 1065, as we read in the Saxon Chronicle, the Thanes and people revolted, and furiously attacking his house, he very narrowly escaped, with his family, and fled into Flanders. The Northumbrians seized his treasures, and appointed Morcar to be their Earl. Harold, brother of Tosti, being appointed by the King to vindicate the royal authority, and quell the insurrection, began his march,, while Morcar, at the head of the Northumbrians, advanced southward. The two armies met at Northampton, but happily an arrangement was effected without bloodshed. Harold on being convinced of his brother's misconduct, abandoned his cause, and interceded with the King in favour of the insurgents. The Confessor conflrmed Morcar in his Earldom ; and Harold afterwards married Morcar's sister, and obtained from the King the government of Mercia for Morcar's brother, Edwin. * The surname of "the Confessor" was given to this Monarch from the bull of his canonization, issued by Pope Alexander III., about a century after his decease. t " Gracious England hath lent us good Siward, and ten thousand men. An older and a better soldier, none that Christendom gives out." Shakspeare's Macbeth, Act iv. Sc. 3. GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. 108 King Edward died on the 5th of January, 1066, and was buried on the foUowing day in the Abbey Church of Westminster, which he had founded. During his reign the most approved Danish laws were incorporated with the customs, maxims, and rules of the Britons, the West Saxons, and the Mercians. This code became common throughout England, and were the laws so fondly cherished by our ancestors in succeeding ages, and so often promised to be adhered to by Princes, as the surest means of securing their popularity. The Malmsbury historian, speaking of the EngUsh at this remarkable period, says, " They wore clothes that did not reach beyond the middle of the knee, their heads were shorn, and their beards were shaven, only the upper lip was always let grow to its full length. Their arms were loaded with golden bracelets, and their skins dyed with painted marks." The above-mentioned Harold was proclaimed King by an assembly of the Thanes and citizens of London, on the death of Edward, and the day of the Confessor's funeral witnessed the coronation of the new monarch. The ceremony of the coronation was performed by Aldred, Archbishop of York, Stigand, the Archbishop of Canterbury, being then suspended. The southem counties cheerfully acquiesced in the succession of Harold, but the Northum brians in their pride refused to be bound by the act of those, whose miUtary qualities they deemed inferior to their own. Harold, accompanied by Wul stan, Bishop of V^orcester, hastened to the north, and soon won the affection of the Northumbrians. The news of Edward's death, and Harold's acces sion, no sooner reached WiUiam, Duke of Normandy, nephew to the deceased Monarch, than he assembled his CouncU, and expressed to them his deter mination to pursue by arms his pretensions to the Crown of England. Tosti (Harold's brother), the outlawed and exUed Earl of Northumberland, en couraged by the Duke of Normandy,* and his father-in-law, Baldwin, Earl of Flanders, now attempted to dethrone him. With forty ships, weU manned, suppUed by the latter nobleman, he made a descent upon Yorkshire, entered the Humber, and committed the most horrible ravages on its banks. Morcar, Eari of Northumbria, with his brother Edwin, Eari of Chester, marched expeditiously against the invader, and pursued him into Lincoln shire, where they defeated him and compeUed him to flee to his ships. He then saUed to Scotland, and after vainly endeavouring to excite the King of that country to join him in the invasion of England, his vindictive spirit impeUed him to apply for assistance to Harrald (surnamed Hardrada, or the ? Daniel, Hist, de France, vol. ui., p. 90. 104 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. Stern), King of Norway, with whorri he was more successful. That great warrior immediately equipped, for the invasion of England, the most mighty armament that ever left the coast of Norway. It consisted of two hundred sail, besides store ships and vessels of smaller size, to the number of five hundred in all. Harrald touched at the Orkneys, where he was joined by Tosti and a large reinforcement of adventurers. Having burnt and plundered the town of Scarborough, and received the submission of the people of the coast of Yorkshire, from the Tees to the Humber, the Norwegians entered the latter river for the purpose of obtaining possession of York. They landed at the viUage of Ricoall, ten miles from Xork, and after ravaging the country in the most cruel manner, they commenced their march to the latter place. A desperate attempt to save the City was made near the village of Fulford, by the Earls Edwin and MOroar. The Norwegians were drawn up with their right flank to the river, and their left to a morass. The impetu osity of the EngUsh burst through the line ; but they, in their turn, were overwhelmed by a fresh body of forces from the ships; and more of the fugitives perished in the water than had fallen by the sword. Edwin and Morcar escaped to York, whither Tosti and his forces followed, and the City was taken by storm. Harold, the English King, who had been preparing to meet the threatened attack of WUliam the ^Norman, having heard of the un expected invasion of Hardrada, lost not a moment in marching against the aggressor, and within .four days after the late battle, he, at the head of a powerful army was in the north. On the 23rd of September, 1066, he arrived with his forces at Tadeaster, and the foUowing day he marched towards York. At the King's approach the invaders withdrew from York, taking with them flve hundred of the principal inhabitants as hostages, and leaving one hundred and flfty of their men to prevent the EngUsh from taking peaceable possession of the City ; they moved about eight miles from York, to Stamford Bridge (long afterwards known as " the Bridge of Battle"), where they secured a very strong position with the main body of their army, on ground gently rising from the river Der- -^ent — the river flowing in front, and a narrow wooden bridge forming the means of communication between the opposite sides. The river here runs nearly south, and is about eight miles distant from its junction with the Ouse. The position of the invaders had several advantages ; it was easily defended, commanded a view of the country for some distance around, arid it afforded a communication with the fleet, then lying in the Ouse. " The order of the battle displayed considerable knowledge of the miUtary art ; with both wings bent backward untU they met, the army formed a close GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 105 rather irregular circle, everywhere of equal depth, with shield touching shield, SO as to form a rampart of bucklers. The royal standard, caUed very appro priately, ' The Land Ravager,' was planted in the centre, and by it the King and his chosen companions had generaUy their station. This arrangement was adopted as the best means of defence against the superior strength of the EngUsh in cavalry. The first, or outer Une, presented to the enemy a complete circle of spears, which were held obliquely at a considerable eleva tion, their ends resting on the ground ; this position required the soldiers to bend one knee ; the second line stood erect, holding their lances in readiness to pierce the breasts of the horses, should they attempt to break thrMgh. The archers were placed so as to assist them in repelling these attacks. The Norwegian King, mounted on a black charger, with a vvhite'star in its forehead, rode round the circle, encouraging his men, and was rendered con spicuous by his dazzUng helmet, and the sky blue mantle he wore above his coat of mail."* The EngUsh King having pursued the invaders, resolved to attack them, notwithstanding aU the advantages of their position. On the 25th of September, at day-break, he commenced hostilities, and the battle raged with increasing fury until three o'clock in the afternoori. The armies were nearly equal in numbers, each consisting of about 60,000 ;men, most of them chosen warriors, fuU of the most savage bravery, arid distin guished for their strength and courage, Harold, in his firstatteriipt to force the passage of the river, appears to have routed a detachment on the western side, which was placed there to guard the bridge. WhUst the EngUsh ,were pursuing the fugitives, and attempting to cross the river, historians teU us, that a single Norwegian, of gigantic strength and power, placed hiniself upon the bridge, and there by his extraordinai-y valour opposed the whole English army for three hours, kiUing with his own hand forty of Harold's soldiers. After having scornfuUy refused an invitation to surrender, with an assurance of the amplest clemency from the English, we are told that a Saxon boatman rowed himself under the bridge, and thrusting his spear up- through the woodwork, pierced the Norwegian terribly inwards, under his coat of mail.-l- The EngUsh then rushed on with resistless impetuosity, and the conflict that * Battle Fields of Yorkshire. -t It must be confessed, that the exploits of this huge and vaUant warrior have more the appearance of romance than of sober history, though it is recorded by all who have written an account of this battle. Drake tells us, that the inha.bitants of Stamford Bridge " have a custom, at an annual feast, to make pies in the form of a swil], or swine tub, which tradition says was made use of by the man, who struck the Norwegian on the bridge, instead of a boat;" and Professor PhiUips, speaking of this champion of the bridge, says, "an annual boat-like cake is the viUage monument to his fortunate enemy." P 106 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. ensued was dreadful. No quarter on either side was aUowed by this im mense multitude in arms, so that it is with good reason said that this action is one of the most bloody that is recorded in the annals of England ; and it is stated that after the lapse of fifty years the spot was stiU whitened with the bones of the slain. For a long time the issue of the contest appeared doubtful. The attack of the English was furious, and it was met with equal spirit by the Norwegians. At length the generalship of Harold proved superior in the field to the Norwegian chief. " He ordered his horsemen to retreat, in order to draw the enemy from their position and break their ranks ; the stratagem had the desired effect ; the Norwegians quitted their position; the EngUsh horsemen returned to the charge, and obtained a speedy victory over their now disordered and half armed enemies ; for they had thrown aside their shields and breastplates to join in the pursuit. The King of Norway was pierced in the neck with an arrow, and instantly expired. Tosti was also slain, and the greater part of the army, with all the chiefs, perished, fighting like madmen."* The EngUsh pursued the remains of the routed army in their disordered flight towards their ships, "and from behind hotly smote them.'' Many were pushed into the rivers and drowned ; and others reached their vessels, some of which were boarded and burned, and the whole fleet was seized by the victors. Olaf, son of Hardrada, and Paul, Earl of Orkney, who had been left in command of the fleet, were taken prisoners ; and here the magnanimity of the English King shines conspicuously, for after receiving back the citizens of York, who had been detained as hostages on board the Norwegian ships, he permitted all who had survived the slaughter, to depart to their own country in a part of their shattered fleet, having first obUged them to swear never to disturb the British dominions again. But twenty ships were sufficient to carry back the miserable remains of an army, which it took more than five hundred to convey hither. Camden tells us, that the spoil taken by the victors was immense; and that the gold alone which the Norwegians left behind them, was as much as twelve men could carry on their shoulders. It is stated that Harold disgusted his army, by refusing to distribute among them any por tion of this spoil. But Harold's triumph was of short duration ; for after his return to York, and whilst he was there celebrating his great victory, a messenger announced the arrival and descent of the Duke of Normandy and an immense army, at Pevensey, in Sussex." He immediately commenced his march southward, and encountered the enemy at Hastings. • Battle Fields of Yorkshii-e. GENERAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. 107 Norman ^erioft. Some historians assert that Edward, surnamed the Confessor, named, with his dying breath, WiUiam, Duke of Normandy, his nephew, as his successor. At the time of that King's death, a report had been circulated, that on his death bed he had appointed Harold to succeed him ; and the latter was caUed to the throne by the voice of the people. However this point may be settled, we have the fact that WiUiam of Normandy claimed the English Crown, fought for, and obtained it. He employed eight months in the most active preparations for the invasion, and by the beginning of August, he found himself at the head of 50,000 cavalry, besides a smaUer body of infantry. To furnish transports for this numerous army, every vessel in Normandy had been put in requisition. But the supply was still inadequate, and many individuals sought the favour of their Prince, by building ships at their own expense, in the different harbours and creeks. The Normans landed without opposition, at Pevensey, on the 29th of September, 1066 ; marched immediately to Hastings, and threw up fortifications at both places, to protect their ships, and secure a retreat in case of disaster. In the begin ning of October Harold was feasting and rejoicing at York ; and on the 13th of the same month he had reached the camp of the Normans. The spot whioh he selected for this important and sanguinary contest was called Senlac, now Battle, eight mUes north-west of Hastings, an eminence opening to the south, and covered on the back by an extensive wood. He posted his troops on the declivity, in one compact and immense mass. In the centre waved the royal standard ; by its side stood Harold, and his two brothers Gurth and Leofwin ; and around them the whole army, every man on foot. On the opposite hill WilUam marshalled his host. In the front he placed the archers and bowmen; the second line was composed of heavy infantry in coats of mail; and behind these, arranged in five divisions, the pride of the Norman force, the knights and men-at-arms. Both men and horses were completely cased in armour, which gave to their charge an irresistible weight, and rendered them almost invulnerable to ordinary weapons. WiUiam, we are told by an old writer, " out of a pious care for the interests of Christendom, and to prevent the effusion of Christian blood, sent out a monk, as mediator between both, who proposed these terms to Harold, either to resign the government, or to own it a tenure in fee from the Nor man, or to decide the matter in single combat with WiUiam; but he," 108 GENERAL HISTORY OP YOEKSHIEE. continues our authority, " like one who had lost the government over himself, rejected aU propositions, and fooUshly flattering himself with success, because it was his birthday, promised to give them battle." Camden observes that the night before the battle was spent by the English in revels, feasting, and shouting ; but by the Norndans in prayers for the safety of their army, and for victory. Next morning at break of day, the Normans, after a regular shout, sounded to battle, and both armies drew up. When they were ready to engage, the Normans: raised the national war cry of "God is our help," which was as loudly answered by the adverse cry of " Christ's rood, the holy rood." The Normans charged first with a voUey of arrows from aU parts, and that being a sort- (5f efttack to which the English were strangers, proved exceedingly terrible. WiUiam then ordered the cavalry to charge, but the English, who resolved 'to die rather than attempt a retreat, kept their ranks, and repulsed them •'with, great loss. The EngUsh in every point opposed a solid and imperie'trable iriassi and neither the buckler nor corslet of the Normans could withstand the stroke of the battle axe, wielded by a powerful arm and with urieriririgaim. After a pause the left wing of the Norman army betook them selves to flight, closely pursued by their opponents, and a report having now spread that WilUam himself had faUen, the whole army began to waver. The'liiuke, with his helmet in his hand, rode along the line exclaiming, " I am stUl 'alive, and with the help of God I stiU shaU conquer." The presence and confidence of their commander revived the hopes of the Normans. WUUam led his troops again to the attack ; but the English column resisted every assault, and maintained their ground with so much bravery, that the Normans were most miserably harassed, and were upon the point of re treating; had not their leader used the most extraordinary means to inspire them with courage and confidence. Harold, on his part used every possible exertion, and was distinguished as the most active and brave amongst the soldiers in the host. His brothers had already perished, but as long as he survived, no man entertained the apprehension of defeat, or admitted the idea of flight. The battle continued for several hours with great fury, the English resisting the almost overwhelming charges of the Norman cavalry. At length, William, disappointed and perplexed, had recourse to stratagem. He ordered his men to retreat and to give ground, but stiU to keep their ranks. The EngUsh, taking this for flight, thought the day was certainly their own, whereupon theyhroke their ranks, and, not doubting their victory, pursued the enemy in great disorder. But the Normans rallying their troops on a sudden, renewed the battle, and enclosing the EngUsh in that disorder. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. 109 killed great numbers, while they stood doubtful whether they should run or fight. At last, Harold was shot through the head with an arrow, and feU from his steed in agony, and was home to the foot of the standard, where he breathed his last. The knowledge of his faU relaxed the efforts of the EngUsh. Twenty Normans undertook to seize the royal banner, and effected their purpose, but with the loss of half their number. One of them, who maimed with his sword th'e dead body of the King, was afterwards disgraced by WiUiam for his brutality. It was now dusk in the evening, the EngUsh became dispirited, and having lost their King, fled to save their Uves, after having fought without inter mission from seven o'clock in the morning. During the engagement WilUam exhibited many proofs of the most determined courage ; he had three horses killed under him, and he had been compeUed to grapple on foot with his adversaries. Harold's mother begged as a boon the dead body of her son, and offered as a ransom its weight in gold, but WUliam's resentment having rendered him caUous to pity, he refused, and ordered the corpse of the faUen Monarch to be buried on the beach ; adding, with a sneer, " he guarded the coast whUe he was alive ; let him continue to guard it after death." There is an old EngUsh tradition that Harold did not faU in this battle, but had retired to a hermitage, where he spent the remainder of his days ; but the historical account is, that by stealth, or by purchase, his remains were removed from the beach, and interred at Waltham Abbey, which he himself had founded before he ascended the throne. It is said that a plain stone was laid on his tomb in the Abbey, with the expressive epitaph, " Harold InfeUx." Some historians assert that on the evening of the battle WUliam caused his pavilion to be pitched among the heaps of the slain, and there with his Barons, he supped and feasted among the dead. Thus ended the memorable and fatal battle, which is commonly called the Battle of Hastings ; and this day (14th October, 1066) ended the Anglo-Saxon monarchy, which had continued more than 600 years ; and gave our island to the dominion of the Norman race. On the field of victory the Conqueror erected and endowed a splendid monastery, the remains of which stiU retain the name of Battle Abbey. It is said that the high altar stood on the very spot where the standard of Harold had been planted. The exterior waUs embraced the whole of the hill which had been the centre of the battle, aud aU the surrounding country became the property of the Abbey. The com munity of this monastery were bound by its rule to offer prayer perpetuaUy for the eternal rest of the souls who had faUen in the conflict; so that the Abbey itself was at once the monument of the Norman Duke's triumph, and 110 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE, the token of his piety. Palgrave very happily concludes his description of this noble and richly-endowed Abbey thus : " But aU this pomp and solemnity has passed away like a dream. The ' perpetual prayer' has ceased for ever, — the Roll of Battle is rent, — the shields of the Norman lieges are trodden in the dust, — the Abbey is leveUed to the ground,— and a dark and reedy pool fills the spot where the foundations of the quire have been uncovered, merely for the gaze of the idle visitor, or the instruction oT the moping antiquary." The foundation of this Abbey was soon followed by that of the town, which was afterwards called Battle or Battel. " Whether we consider the Norman Conquest in its success, or in its con sequences," writes the Revt George Oliver, in his History of Beverley, " it is still an event equaUy stupendous and unprecedented. It was effected almost without a struggle. Never were such important results accomplished with so little sacrifice on the part of the conquerors. The rash attempt made by a provincial Duke to reduce this powerful island, would in any other age have been deemed preposterous, and its success contrary to all the chances of political calculation. William, himself, could scarcely anticipate, or even hope for that perfect good fortune with whioh it was accompanied. The native inhabitants appear to have been completely paralysed by the unex pected result of tho battle of Hastings ; which • feeling, the superior genius of William well knew how to convert to his own advantage, that even the sacrifice of their liberties, their property, and innumerable lives was in sufficient to rouse them to any effective resistance against the tyranny which trampled them underfoot, and reduced their ancient nobUity to a state of servile thraldom." WiUiam, who had hitherto been called " the Bastard," and was now sur named " the Conqueror," was crowned in Wesminster Abbey, on the 25th of December next following the battle of Hastings, by Aldred, Archbishop of York ; Stigand, of Canterbury, being suspended from the Archiepiscopal office. Having thus estabUshed himself on the Throne of England, WUUam on his part, to confirm his authority, adopted the most bold and active measures. He expeUed the English from their estates, reserving to himself about 1,400 manors, and he distributed the fair territory of Britain amongst his rapacious followers. This numerous train of mUitary adventurers, who had accom panied him from Normandy under the promise of reward, held their new possessions of the King on the tenure of homage, and fealty, and miUtary service ; by which they were bound to attend him in the field with a certain number of retainers, armed, mounted, and provided for a specified number of days in every year. The Roll of Battle Abbey, given by HoUinshed, con- GENERAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIRE. Ill tains the names of 629 Normans, who became claimants upon the soil of England, whUst the ancient nobUity were stripped of their titles and property, and the humble classes of the inhabitants were reduced to the condition of miserable slaves.* Thus all the principal manors in the Kingdom, except those which the King had reserved himself, were held of him by tenants in capite, or in other words, by his Barons ; and these, consisting of about seven hundred persons, were the legitimate Parliament, or Council of the realm. The lands thus acquired and maintained, the Barons again subdivided into Knight's fees, and let them to tenants on a similar tenure. The Conqueror laid aside the greater part of the English laws, and introduced the Norman customs, and even ordered aU causes to be pleaded in French ; and we are told by Ingulphus, who lived at that time, that he " obliged aU the inhabitants of England to do homage, and swear fealty to him and his successors." He made a seal also, on the side of which was engraven. Hoc Normanto- rum Oulielmum nosee patronum, by this the Normans own great WilUam Duke; and on the other side Hoc Anglis signo Regem fatearis eundum, by this too, England owns the same their King. He erected numerous fortresses to overawe the insulted and oppressed inhabitants, and conscious of the detesta tion in which he was deservedly held, he entertained a perpetual jealousy of the EngUsh, and in the resistless apprehensions of his guilty mind, he com peUed them to rake out their fires, and extinguish their lights at eight o'clock every night, and they were reminded of this duty by the toU of the Curfew. The northern counties were slow to submit to the Norman yoke, which, however, at last fell on them with terrible weight. A violent struggle was made for some years to expel the invaders, and York was the rallying point * The grants of the landed property in England, made by the Conqueror to some of his nobles, were excessive. To Geoffrey, Bishop of Constance, he gave 250 manors ; to WUliam Warrenne, 298 ; to Eichard de Clare, 171 ; to Eanulph de Baynard, 85 ; and to Roger de BresH, 149 manors. His uterine brother, Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, and Earl of Kent, possessed in that County, aud in several others, 439 manors; Eobert, Earl of Montague, on whom he bestowed the Earldom of Cornwall, had in that and other coun ties, 973 manors ; and Alan Fergant, Earl of .Bretagne, had 442 manors. The manor of Eichmond, in Yorkshire, had 156 lordships ; besides which, the Earl possessed, by the gift of the King, 276 manors in other parts of the kingdom. The King himself pos sessed no fewer than 1432 manors in different parts of the Kingdom. A Manor was syuonimous in the language of tbe Normans with ViUa in Latin. It denoted an ex tensive parcel of land, with a house on it for the accommodation of the lord, and cottages for his viUeins and slaves. The lord or owner generally kept a part of the land in his own hands, and bestowed the remainder on two or more tenants, who held of him by military service, or rent, or other prestations. 112 GENERAL HISTORY OP YOEKSHIEE, for the patriot army. " By the splendour of God," (his usual oath) said WiUiam, when the men of York rose and massacred his Norman garrison, "I wUl utterly root out these Northumbrian, people, nor will I lay lance in rest for other cause, untU I have done the deed." The gage was redeemed. St. Cuthbert, whose awe had caused meaner invaders to stand aloof, himself quailed before the withering glance of the Conqueror. The power of dark ness for a time prevailed. WiUiam, as we shall see an'bn,' marched from the Ouse to the Tyne, leaving behind him viUages destroyed and without inhabi tants, and scattering the mangled members of the people upon every highway. Slaughter gave place to famine, and famine to pestilence, under the stern severity of the Norman tyrant. Having silenced the disaffected, and constrained the country to a state of sullen quietude, he caused a survey to be taken of all the lands in England, the four northern counties excepted, on the model of the Book of Winchester, compiled by order of Alfred the Great. This survey was registered in a national record caUed Dom Boc, Doomsday or Domesday Book, or judgment, alluding by metaphor to those books out of which the world shaU be judged at the last day. It was to serve as a register of the possessions of every English freeman, to ascertain what quality of mUitary service was owed by the King's chief tenants ; to affix the homage due to him, and to record by what tenure the various estates in Britain were held. This survey was undertaken by the advice and consent of a great Council of the Kingdom, which met immediately after the false rumour of the Danes' intended attack upon England, in the year 1085, as it is stated in the Saxon Chronicle, and it did not occupy long in the execution, since aU the historians who speak of it vary but from the year 1083 untU 1087. There is a memorandum at the end of the second volume, stating that it was finished in 1086. The manner of performing the survey was expeditious : certain Commissioners, caUed the King's Justices, were appointed to travel throughout England, and to register upon the oath of the Sheriffs, the Lords of each manor, the Priests of every church, the Stewards of every hundred, the Bailiffs and six viUeins or hus bandmen of every village, the names of the various places ; the holders of them in the time of King Edward the Confessor, forty years previous ; the names of the possessors, the quantity of land, the nature of the tenures, and the several kinds of property contained in them. All the estates were to be then triply rated; namely, as they stood in the reign of the Confessor; as they were first bestowed by King WiUiam I. ; and as they were at the time of the survey. The manuscript itself consists of two volumes, a greater and a less. The first of these is a large foUo, containing the description of GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 113 thirty-one counties, upon 382 double pages of veUum, numbered on one side only, and written in a smaU but plain character, each page having a double column. Some of the capital letters and principal passages are touched with red ink, and others have red Unes' run through them, as if they were in tended to be obUterated. The smaUer volume is of a 4to size, and is written upon 450 double pages of veUum, but in a single column, and in a very large and fair character: it contains three counties, and a part of two others. Through aU ages this " Book of Judicial verdict '' will be held in estimation, not only for its antiquity, but also for its intrinsic value. To the present day it serves to show what manor is, and what is not ancient demesne.* The Normans were remarkable for their courage and valour: though seated in the midst of warlike nations, they never made submission without an appeal to arms. Their valiant behaviour in the wars of the Holy Land exceedingly increased their honour; and Roger Hoveden, extoUing their deeds of arms, tells us, " that bold France, after she had experienced the Norman valour, drew back; fierce England submitted; rich Apulia was restored to her flourishing condition ; famous Jerusalem, and renowned An tioch, were both subdued." The Normans preserved most of the Anglo-Saxon laws and customs, but preferred their own trial by battle, as more worthy of warriors and freemen, to the fiery ordeals of the English. They separated the spiritual from the secular courts ; and the old distinction of classes, viz : Ealderman, Thanes, Ceorls, and Theowas, were preserved under the names of Count or Earl, Baron, Knight, Esquire, Freetenant, Villein or Villain, and Neif. In the Domesday Survey we find Yorkshire, as at present, divided iuto three Ridings, caUed the east, west, and north, and subdivided into Wapen takes, a division pecuUar to this County. And here we shaU make a digression, for the purpose of explaining some of the ancient titles, tenures, and terms, used in the admeasurement of land, beginning with the names of the divisions and subdivisions of this County. • The Domesday Book, supposed to be the most ancient of its kind of which any European nation can boast, and certainly the most ancient topographical record which is known in England, was, until 1695, kept under three locks, the keys of which were in the custody of the treasurer and two churchwardens of the Exchequer, but it is now deposited in the Chapter House at Westminster, where the fee for consulting it is 6s. 8d., and for transcripts from it, 4d. per line. Though it is now nearly 800 years o]d, it is in as fine a state of preservation as if it were the work of yesterday. Ju the 40th of George HI. (1801), his Majesty, by the recommendation of Parliament, directed that it should be printed for the use of the members of the Houses of Lords and Commons and the public Ubraries of the kingdom, which orders were duly obeyed. 114 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. Riding is a term derived from the Saxon Trithing, which implies a third part; a rctode of division in England, as has just been observed, now only peculiar to Yorkshire, but common in Lincolnshire and some other counties in the Anglo-Saxon era. The Trithing man, or Lathgrieve (the chief magis trate of a Riding), presided over three or four or more Hundreds, formed into what was called a Trithing, Lath, or Rape ; hence the Laths of Kent, the Rapes of Sussex, the Parts of Lincoln, and the Trithings or BMings of York shire. Wapentake, or Wapontake, is equivalent to Hundred, and this division is likewise of Saxon origin, and was probably made in imitation of the Centena of Germany. The true origin of the application of the word Hundred to the division of a County is uncertain. Some authors have considered the Hun dred as relating to the number of the heads of families, or the number of dwellings situated in the division ; others to the number of hides of land therein contained. Other writers are of opinion that the Hundred was formed by the union of ten tithings, and was presided over by a Hundredary, who was commonly a Thane, or nobleman, residing within the Hundred. The word Wapentake is evidently of warlike origin. In the northern counties the frequent occasion for military array, predominating over the peaceful pur poses of civil jurisdiction, before the union of England and Scotland, the subdivision of these counties received warlike titles, as Wards and Wapen takes. The Court of the chief officer, or Hundredary, commonly met once a month, and all the members came to it in their arms, from whioh it obtained the name of Wapentac, or Wapentake, which literally signifies " To Arms," from Wapen, weapons, and tac, touch. When any one came to take upon him the government of a Wapentake, upon a day appointed, all that owed suit and service to that Hundred came to meet their new Governor at the usual place of meeting. " He, upon his arrival, aUghting from his horse, set up the lance on end (a custom used amongst the Romans by the Prsetor, at the meetings of the Centumviri), and according to custom, took fealty of them ; the ceremony of which was, that all who were present touched the Governor's lance with their lances, in token of confirmation, whereupon the whole meeting was called a Wapentake, inasmuch as by a mutual touch of each other's arms, they had entered into a confederacy or agreement to stand by one another."* Tithings were so called because ten freemen householders, with their fami lies, composed one ; and a number of these tithings (probably ten, or perhaps • Bawdwen's Domesday Gloss., p. 23. GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. US one hundred) originally composed a superior division, caUed a Hundred, Wapentake, Ward, &c., in each of which a Court was held yearly for the trial of causes. An indefinite number of these divisions form a County or Shire, the civil jurisdiction of which is confined to the Shire-rere, or Sheriff, who is appointed annuaUy. Anciently the Shire-genot, or FoUi-mote, as the highest court in the County was then called, was held twice a year, and presided over by the Bishop'or his deputy, and the Alderman or his vicegerent, the Sheriff. Judge Blackstone says that King Alfred the Great divided England into Counties, Hundreds, and Tithings, to prevent tbe rapine and disorders which formerly prevaUed in the realm ; the inhabitants of each district being then made responsible for the lawless acts of each other. But Shires and Counties are mentioned before the accession of that monarch. Soon after the intro duction of Christianity in the seventh century, the Kingdom was divided into Parishes and Bishoprics. The principal titles of honour amongst the Saxons were Etheling, Prince of the blood ; Chancellor, assistant to the King in giving judgments ; Alderman, or Ealderman, Governor or Viceroy. This word is derived from aid or old, like senator in Latin. Provinces, Cities, and sometimes Wapentakes, had their Aldermen to govern them, determine law suits, &c. This office gave place to the title of Earl, which is Danish, and was introduced by Canute. The Sheriffe, or Shir-rieve, the Alderman's deputy, and chosen by him, sat as judge in some courts, and saw sentence executed. Heartoghan signified Generals of armies or Dukes. Hengist, in the Saxon Chronicle, is Hear- togh. Reeve, among the English Saxons, was a steward. Witan or Wites (i.e. wise-men) were the magistrates or lawyers. Thanes (i.e. servants) were officers of the Crown, whom the Eang recompensed with lands, to be held of him, with some obligation of service or homage. There were other lords of lands and vassals, who enjoyed the title of Thanes, but were distinguished from the King's Thanes. The Aldermen and Dukes were aU King's Thanes. These were the great Thanes, and were succeeded by the Barons, which title was brought in by the Normans. Mass Thanes were those who held lands in fee of the church. Middle Thanes were such as held very small estates of the King, or parcels of land of the King's greater Thanes. They were caUed by the Normans, Vavassors or Vavassories. Ceorl (whence our word churl) was a countryman or artizan, who was a freeman. Ceorls, who had acquired possession of five hides of land with a large house court, and bell to caU together their servants, were raised to the rank of Thanes of the lowest class. The Villeins — " Ascripti viUse seu glebse" — were labourers bound to the soU, and transferred with it from one owner to another ; in this and 116 GENERAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIRE. other respects they were little better than slaves. According to the enume ration in the Domesday Book, these Ceorls, under the names of villeins, cot tars, and bordars, amounted in England to 183,024 ; whUst the freemen were only 30,005 ; and the slaves, 26,552. The Burghers, many of whom were Ceorls of the same description, were numbered at 17,105. A Hide, or a Carucate of land, is generaUy estimated at 120 acres, and was considered to employ one plough for a year — hence it is sometimes called a Plough-land. It is, by some, derived from the Saxon hyden-tectum, the roof of a house ; this quantity of land being considered as a proper annexa tion to a farm house. Under the feudal system most lands were held under a military tenure. All the lands in the kingdom, soon after the Conquest, were said to be " held of the King ; " and the great vassals of the Crown, both lay and clerical, were forced to have a certain number of horsemen completely armed, and to maintain them in the field for the space of forty days. England was so distributed by these means, that WiUiam the Con queror had always at his command an army of 60,000 Knights. By the term Knights must be understood those who held Knight's fees, not persons who had obtained the Order of Knighthood. A Knight's fee consisted of two hides of land, or two hides and a half; and a mesne tenant, who had more than a single Knight's fee, was called a bavasor, a term applied to any vassal who held a military fief of a tenant in chief to the Crown. He who held of a bavasor, was called a balvasini, and each of these might enfeeoff another to hold of him by Knight's service. A Barony was Knight's service embaroned, or enlarged. Thus every nobleman was by tenure a soldier ; his mUitary duty was not confined within the Kingdom, but extended abroad at the com mand of the King ; and not singly, but with such a number of Knights as his barony, by its several fees, maintained. All the great landowners were soldiers, paid and maintained by the lands they possessed, as they likewise paid and maintained those freeholders of an inferior rank, who held Knight's fees under them. The military tenure, or that by Knight service, consisted of what were deemed the most free and honourable services, but in their nature they were unavoidably uncertain, as to the time of performance; the second species of tenure, or free socage, consisted also of free and honourable services, but were reduced to an absolute certainty. This tenure subsists to this day, and in it, since the statute of Charles II., almost every other species of tenure has been merged. The chief tenants of lords generally divided their property into two por tions, one of which, the principal farm or manor, on which the rest depended, and to which they owed suit and service, was called the Demesne. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 117 A Virgate or Yard of land differed in extent at various times, and in various parts of the Kingdom, from being measured with a rood (virga) of the length of a yard. An Oxgang or Bouvate was as much land as an ox could till, or about 28 acres. A Perch was 5| yards; an Ac7-e, 160 square perches; a Carucate, Carve, or Plough-land, was generally 8 oxgangs. Berewicks are manors within manors. Heriot is a fine paid to the lord at the death of a land holder of change of tenant. The other terms, most common in connection with the tenure of land, were Sac, Soe, Thol, Theam, Infangtheof, and View of Frank Pledge. All these terms are in ancient law, and originated from the old Saxon. Sac and Soe means the j urisdiction of holding pleas, and imposing fines, and the right which a lord possessed of exercising justice on his vassals, and compelUng them to be suitors at his Court. Sockmen were those who held land on lease, and their land was called sockland. They were comparatively free tenants, and held their land generally by the service of ploughing their lord's own demesne land, a certain number of days in the year. According to some, Sec in Saxon means the handle of a plough ; but others teU us that it means Uberty or privilege. Socage then, or free socage, denotes a tenure by any certain and determinate service. Britten, describing land in socage tenure, under the name ol fraunke forme, says that they are lands and tenements, whereof the nature of the fee is charged by feoffment out of chivalry for certain yearly services, and in respect whereof neither homage, ward, marriage, or reUef can be demanded- Those who preserved their lands from the innovations of the Norman Con queror were said to hold them in free and common socage, Tliol was the liberty to take, as weU as to be free from, toU; and Theam, ' or Theim, was the prerogative of having, restraining, and judging bondmen' and villeins with their children, goods and chattels, in the Court of the person possessing the privilege of Theam. Infangtheof is a criminal jurisdiction, by whioh thieves, found in the territories of the possessor of this privilege' might be punished without appeal. By virtue of these powers offenders were tried for thefts and other misdemeanors, and sentenced in the lord's court, and even executed on the gaUows belonging to the manor. View of Frank Pledge meant that twice in the year, upon such days as the possessor of the privUege shaU think fit, he shaU have a view of all the frank pledges of his tenants. Waifs were goods which had been stolen, and thrown away by the thief in his flight, for fear of being apprehended. These were given by law to the 118 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. King, as a punishment upon the owner for not himself pursuing the felon, and taking away his goods from him. From the Domesday Book we learn that at the Conquest the County of York was divided among some of the most powerful and leading men of the Conqueror's government. There names are entered in the foUowing order : — " I. Land of the King in Yorkshire. II. The Archbishop of York,* and of the Canons, and of his men. HI. The Bishop of Durhamf and his men. IV. The Abbot of York. V. Eari Hugh, Robert de Eue, Eari of Eue, in Normandy. VI. Robert, Earl of Morton, half brother to the Conqueror, by whom he was created Earl of Cornwall, 1068. VII. Earl Alan, son of Flathald, obtained the Castle of Oswaldestre from the Conqueror. VIII. Robert de Todeni, Lord of Belvoir, County Lincoln, ob. 1088. IX. Berenger de Todeni. X. Ilbert de Laci, Lord of Pontefract. XL Roger de Busli held the Manor of HaUam (Sheffield) under the Countess Judith, anno 1080, ob. 1099. XLL Robert Malet, great Chamberlain of England, but subsequently disinherited and banished. XIII. WilUam de Warren, Earl Warren in Nor mandy, created Earl of Surrey by WUUam IL, died 1089. XIV. WiUiam de Percy, surnamed Algernon, obtained divers lands from William I., ob. circa 1096. XV. Drago de Holdernesse, also called Drue Debeverer, who came into England with the Conqueror, and retired into Flanders some years afterwards. XVI. Ralph de Mortimer, who obtained the Castle of Wigmore. xvn. Ralph Paganel. XVIII. Walter de Aincourt. XIX. Gilbert de Gant, son of Baldwin, Earl of Flanders. XX. Gilbert Tison. XXI. Hugh, son of Baldric. XXII. Erneis de Burum, held thirty-two lordships in the County; he was the ancestor of the present family of Byron. XXIII. Osbert de Arcis. XXIV. Odo Balistarius. XXV. Richard, son of Erfast. XXVI. Goisfrid AlseUn. XXVH. Alberic de Coci. XXVIII. Gospatric. XXIX. The King's Thanes. A few centuries after the Conquest much of the land passed into the pos session of the Church, and the religious fraternities, but at the Reformation most of it reverted to the Crown, and was subsequently granted for services to persons in royal favour, or sold for the use of the King. Though it is a generally received opinion that England was divided into Counties and Shires, or Shrievalties, towards the ninth century, yet it does not appear that this change took place in the ancient Kingdom of Northum bria earlier than the middle of the eleventh century. At the time of the • Thomas, Canon of Baion, in Normandy, succeeded in 1070. -^ Walcher consecrated circa 1073. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 119 Norman Survey it contained six Shires, under the designation of Eurewick- scire, Richmundeseire, Loncastreseire, Oaplande (afterwards called the Bishopric of Durham), Westmerilonde, and Cumbrelonde. In 1068, Earl Morcar, who was stiU Governor of York, with his brother, the Earl of Chester, and their nephew, Blethevin, King of Wales, finding that Duke William's policy was to root out the ancient nobiUty, and to de grade the native inhabitants to the condition of slaves, resolved to oppose him. On hearing of their designs, he created one of his cruel sateUites, named Copsi, Earl of Northumbria, and despatched him down to Durham with a guard of 1,200 men. But the Northumbrians, headed by Earl Cospatrick, and Edgar, the EtheUng (the latter being the lawful heir to the Crown of England), marched to Durham by night, and attacked and slew Copsi and all his men. The insurgents then proceeded to York, where they were re ceived with joy and gladness by Earls Morcar and Edwin, as well as by the citizens. WiUiam once more drew his conquering sword, and advanced rapidly towards York, at the head of a powerful army. The Northumbrian chiefs, finding themselves unable to withstand him, sent Edgar back to Sootiand, and submitted themselves to the Conqueror, by whom they were readily pardoned. The citizens, too, hearing of his lenity, went out to meet him, and delivered to him the keys of the City. They also were apparently received into favour, but a heavy fine was levied upon them, and two Castles in the City were shortly after fortified by the Conqueror, and strongly gar risoned with Norman soldiers. On the arrival of WiUiam, the Saxon nobles, who had manifested a disposition to shake off the Norman yoke, fled into . Scotland for protection. Among these were Morcar, Edwin, and Cospatrick. Elated by his success, WiUiam sent a herald into Scotland to demand the Etheling, and the English lords ; but Malcolm refusing to comply with the mandate, and knowing that the Conqueror would revenge the denial, invited the King of Denmark to unite with the English and Scotch in an attempt to expel the Norman. The Danish monarch soon united in the confederacy, and sent a fleet of 250 ships, well laden with troops, commanded by his brother Esbom, or Osbern, with the two sons of the King, Harold and Ca nute, as well as other distinguished personages. This fleet entered the Humber in 1069, and the forces being joined by the English and Scotch they marched direct to York, where they were met by the Etheling and a large number of the English exiles, who had arrived from Scotland for the purpose. The Norman garrison in the Castles prepared for a siege, and on the 19th of September, 1069, they set fire to some houses in the suburbs to prevent them being made useful to the besiegers. But the wind being high 120 GENEEAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. the flames spread farther than was designed, and burnt down a great part of the City, including the Cathedral, and the invaluable library placed there by King Egbert, in a.d. 800. During the great confusion, into which the un expected ravages of the fire threw the garrisons, the Danes and English valiantly attacked the fortresses, entered the City sword in hand, and cut the Normans (about 3,000 in number) to pieces. All who escaped this dread ful slaughter were the Sheriff of the County, his wife, and two chUdren, with a few others who were found in the Castle. Waltheof, the fifth Earl of Northumberland, and son of Siward, was now appointed Governor of the City, with a strong garrison of English and Scotch soldiers under his command; and the Danes retired to a good situation, between the Humber and Trent, to wait the Normans. WUliam, who was hunting in the forest of Dean when he received the first news of this disaster, swore his favourite oath (See page 112) that he would destroy all the people of the north. Hearing that the garrison of York had been taken" by his enemies, he was much exasperated, and hastened at the head of a powerful army into the north. He spread his camps over the country for the space of 100 miles, and then the execution of his vow began.* Alured, a monk of Beverley, who wrote in the twelfth century, states, "that the Conqueror destroyed men, women, and children, from York, even to the western sea ;" and the historian of Malmsbury tells us, that no less than 100,000 persons perished at that time in a district sixty miles in length. The whole country between York and Durham was laid waste so effectually, that for nine years afterwards the ground remained untiUed ; and many of the wretched in habitants, who had escaped the slaughter, were reduced to the necessity of eating dogs, cats, and even their own species, to prolong a miserable existence. This account is confirmed by Roger de Hoveden, and Simon of Durham, as well as by the concurrent testimony of all the historians of these times. W^hen the Conqueror arrived before the City, he summoned the Governor to surrender, but Waltheof sternly refused, and set his threats at defiance. The wily Norman now had recourse to bribery : for a large sum of money aud permission to plunder the sea coast, the faithless and corrupt Danish Gene ral, Osbert, agreed to quit the country as soon as the spring would permit. William lost no time in pushing forward the siege, He attempted- to take the City by storm, after making a large breach in the waU with engines, but was repulsed with great loss ; Waltheof, hiraself, according to William of Malmsbury, having stood singly in the breach, and cut down several of the • Holinshed. See also Turner's Hist. Eng., vol. i., page 79. GENEEAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 121 Normans who attempted to mount it. From the same historian we learn that about this time a severe battle was fought near York between t]ie Nor mans and a powerful army, probably of Caledonians, who came to the relief of the besieged ; in which the Normans, however, were victorious. After a gallant defence of six months, York was obUged through famine to capitulate ; and though the conditions of the surrender were favourable to the besieged, yet the Conqueror attributing the first success of the Danes to the treachery of the citizens, took signal vengeance upon them, put the soldiers to the sword, and burnt the City to the ground. York never entirely over came this shock, nor recovered its ancient splendour. The Conqueror pro fessed great friendship for Waltheof, the Governor, who had so nobly resisted him ; and the more firmly to attach him to his interesf, he being a man of pre-eminent note, he gave him in marriage Judith, his niece, daughter of Maud, Countess of Albermarle, his uterine sister, and at the same time restored to him the Earldoms of Northampton and Huntingdon, which be longed to Siward, his father. Waltheof having become involved in the revolt of the Barons, for the expulsion of the King, in the tenth year of this reign (1076), was arraigned for conspiracy, and condemned and executed at Winchester, in the same year, and his decapitated trunk was treated with every possible indignity. The body having lain for some time in the cross- way, where it was buried, was afterwards removed to Croyland or Crowland Abbey, in Lincolnshire, where it was honourably sepulchred. And thus perished the brave Waltheof, the last of the Saxon Earls. The execution of this nobleman is observed to be the first instance of beheading in this Kingdoms His widow, the Countess Judith, not being a participant in her husband's treason, was aUowed to retain his lands, manors, and Earldoms. Historians, however, have accused her of treachery towards her lord; for though his innocence was attested by Archbishop Lanfranc, yet at her insti gation, who is said to have effected a second marriage, he was condemned. Ingulphus, a monk of Croyland, and her contemporary, has not scrupled to describe her by the execrable appeUation, impiisdma Jezebel. York, before it was burnt by the Norman, was considered by Hardinge, superior to London ; and was, according to the author of the Polichronicon,' "as fair as the City of Rome, from the beauty and magnificence of its buildings." Harrison very justly styled it Altera Roma ; and Leland teUs us that it was so large, that its suburbs extended to the viUages a mile distant. In 1071, the embers of civU war being rekindled by the jealousy of WUliam, the influence of Edwin and Morcar was judged dangerous ; and the King thought it expedient to secure their persons. Edwin, whilst endea- E 123 GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YOHKSHIEE. vouring to escape towards the borders of Scotland, was betrayed by three of his vassals, and fell with twenty of his faithful adherents, fighting against his pursuers. The traitors presented his head to WiUiam, who rewarded their services with a sentence of perpetual banishment. His brother Morcar fled to the standard of Hereward, erected in the " Camp of Refuge," in the Isle of Ely, Cambridgeshire ; and with the Bishop of Durham, and many Saxon Nobles, was afterwards condemned by WiUiam to perpetual imprison ment. In 1072, the Conqueror being at Durham, summoned before his tribunal, Cospatrick, the Earl of Northumberland, and charged him with old offences, which it was supposed had been long ago forgiven — the- massacres of the Normans at Durham and York. He was banished by the sentence of the Court ; and having retired to Scotland, Malcolm gave him the Castle and demesne of Dunbar, The people of England finding further resistance to the Norman useless, submitted to his yoke in suUen despair. Even Edgar the Etheling consented to soUcit a liveUhood of the man whose ambition had robbed him of a Crown. WiUiam granted him the first place at Court, an apartment in the palace, and a yearly pension of 365 pounds of silver. Nothing of importance is recorded of Yorkshire from this period until the year 1137, when on the 4th of June in that year, the City, which had par tiaUy risen from its ashes, was destroyed by an accidental fire, which burnt down the Cathedral, the Abbey of St. Mary, St. Leonard's Hospital, thirty- nine parish churches in the City, and Trinity Church in the suburbs, besides many streets and public buildings.* WhUst the civil war between King Stephen and the Empress Maud, or MatUda, raged with destructive fury, David, King of Scotland, uncle to the Empress, espoused her cause, and with a powerful army of Normans, Ger mans, Saxons, Cumbrian Britons, Northumbrians, Picts, and Scots, three times invaded the northern provinces of England, and laid waste the country as far as the City of York. In these expeditions the army of the Scottish King conducted the war with the ferocity of savages. They profaned the churches, burnt the monasteries and viUages, promiscuously slaughtered chUdren, aged people, and the defenceless; and exercised the most unheard of barbarities upon the natives in general. Pregnant women were ripped up, and the infants cut to pieces. The fair females which they spared in their route, and which were generally distinguished by their birth or beauty, were * On the previous day, the Cathedral of Eochester had been burnt; and on the 27th of the same disastrous month, the City of Bath was nep,rly destroyed by flre. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. 123 stripped of their clothes, tied to each other with thongs, and driven at the point of the spear to Scotland ; where after suffering every kind of indig nity, they were retained as slaves to their captors, or bartered by them for cattle to the neighbouring chieftains. This conduct so incensed the powerful Norman Barons, that they re solved, unanimously, at the suggestion of Thurston, Archbishop of York, who was then Lieutenant-Governor of the North, to repel the invaders ; and even the Saxon-EngUsh were so exasperated against the Scots, that they forgot their hatred of the Normans, in the pleasing hope of taking vengeance upon such cruel enemies. The aged Archbishop succeeded in uniting aU to fight for their country, their families, and their God. David, hearing of their intentions, drew his army from before York, and retired northwards. The chief of the Barons who joined in this struggle, were WiUiam le Gros, or de Albermarle, Walter de Gaunt, Robert and Adam de Brus, Roger de Mowbray, Walter L'Espec, GUbert and WiUiam de Lacy, and WiUiam de Percy. At the appointed time, the nobles, with their vassals, repaired to York, and were met by the parochial clergy, with the bravest of their parishioners ; and after spending three days in fasting and devotion, and swearing before the Archbishop that they would never desert each other, they marched against the enemy, under the command of that prelate, as far as Thirsk Castle, then a stronghold of the Mowbrays. There Thurston resigned his authority to Ralph, Bishop of the Orkney Isles, WiUiam le Gros, and Walter L'Espec. On the 22nd of August, 11.38, the two armies met on Cuton Moor, near NorthaUerton, and a terrible battle ensued. This engagement is caUed the Battle qf the Standard, from a high standard round which the English as sembled, and which was a tall mast of a vessel, strongly fastened into the frame work of a earriage upon wheels, having at the top a crucifix, a silver pix containing a consecrated host ; and from which were suspended the con secrated banners of the three patron saints — St. Peter of York, St. John of Beverley, and St. Wilfred of Ripon. The standard was guarded by a chosen band of knights, who had sworn rather to die than yield it to the hands of the enemy. After the Bishop had made an oration to the army, from the earriage, and had given them the blessing, which they received on their knees, they aU shouted "Amen," and rose to receive the shock of the enemy. But the spirit of discord and disunion reigned in the Scottish camp, and this is not surprising, considering the many different races of which it was composed. David had intended that the battle should be commenced by the men-at-arms and archers, in whom his chief strength consisted, but the men 124 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. of Galloway, who fought with' long slender spears, and who displayed great bravery during the campaign, insisted upon taking that post of honour. After an angry discussion, the King was obliged to yield the van to the Gal- wegians. The English drew up in a compact body, the spearmen and archers in front, and the heavy armed chivalry in the rear, the sacred banner towering bright above them all. The Scots were formed in four lines, the men of GaUoway (or Picts) in front, who began the battle, wildly rushing on their opponents, and throwing themselves, like a tempest, upon the English spearmen. For a moment the English were staggered, but whUst thus held at bay, the matchless archery of the native EngUsh was brought to bear with tremendous effect upon the enemy. The naked Galwegians were on the point of turning before these terrible discharges of barbed death, when the Scottish men-at-arms, commanded by Prince Henry, coming to their rescue, dashed with such impetuosity upon the English ranks, that they were torn asunder, and victory appeared to smile upon the Scottish monarch. The conflict now grew hotter ; it was " Lance to lance, and horse to horse" — when lo ! the Scottish forces waver — they are seized by a panic — a rumour had spread through the ranks that the King was slain ; and though he him self, helmet in hand, hastens from rank to rank, to reassure them that he is yet alive — ^he fails in rallying them — they fly, and are ruthlessly slaughtered by their pursuers ; and the battle is lost. In vain the King and his brave son Henry, and a few faithful nobles, maintained the combat; notwith standing the astonishing proofs of valour and intrepidity which they displayed, they were nobly defeated by the newly-raised frmy of the " chariot-mounted banners." The Scottish army consisted of 27,000 men, and nearly one half are said to have perished in the battle and flight on that fatal day ; and, as we have no account of prisoners, it is probable that no quarter was given. The loss on the EngUsh side is not stated ; that of the Scots is most probably guess work. There are no indications of hUlocks or mounds to he seen in the neighbour hood, to mark the graves of the slain ; and the only name of a place bearing a reference to such an event, is Scot Pit Lane," applied to a green laaie, a little to the north of the spot where stood the consecrated banner of the English army, and whioh is still known as " Standard HUl." Some writers suppose that the dead, excepting a select few, were never buried. The field of this — one of the mpst bloody battles recorded in the history of this King dom — was an open level common, upon which little advantage could be gained over an enemy by selection of ground, as it afforded no strong posts, or easily 4efended positions. GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 125 This signal defeat so overawed the Scots, that the people of the north of England appear to have been secure from their incursions for a long period. For seven centuries York had exhibited a series of sanguinary wars, and re peated desolations ; but from the date of this battle, it enjoyed for some ages the blessings of peace, and again rose to wealth and importance. In A.D. 1160, just twenty-two years after the terrible conflagration in the reign of Stephen, Henry II. held in York the first meeting said to be dis tinguished in history by the name of ParUament.* Malcolm, King of Scotland, accompanied by all his Barons, Abbots, and Prelates, attended and did homage to Henry, in the Cathedral, for his Kingdom of Scotland, and acknowledged him and his successors his superior lords. In 1171 Henry caUed another convention of Bishops and Barons at York, to which he sum moned William, the successor of Malcolm, to do homage for his Kingdom ; • The word ParUament is derived from Parler la ment — to speak one's mind. Some say that this word Parliament does not occur until the above year, and that before that time it was usuaUy denominated the King's Court, or Great CounoU. Drake's Ebor., p. 93. Camden, however, thinks that this word was used in the 16th of Henry I. Cur. Disc, vol. i., p. 304. Blackstone says it was first appUed to general assembUes of the States, under Louis "VTL, in France, about the middle of the 12th century; and that the first mention of it in our statute law, is in the preamble to the statute of Westminster, i., 3, Edw. I., A.D. 1272. Com., vol. i., p. 146. Ingulphus, who died in 1109, used the word ParUament for a meeting of the Chapter of a Convent. When the Norman Con queror of Britain distributed the landed property of the Kingdom amongst his numerous foUowers, the Barons, who held their land in capite, or directiy under the King, formed the CouncU of the Eealm, or the ParUament of that period. (See page 111.) But in process of time, when the lands became subdivided, and the number of Barons increased to a prodigious multitude, the great Barons only were summoned by the King, and the others assembled at the writ of the Sheriff, and were placed in a separate house. This was the origin of the two Houses of Parliament. (Blackst. Com. Archb., vol. i., p. 398.) When the towns of England had sprung into importance as marts of industry, the Crown, in order to neutraUze the power of the nobUity, called upon them to send mem bers to ParUament — but at .long intervals : and that may be considered the real origin of the third estate in the Eeahn. The Crown recognized a body which it called the Commons, because it feared the nobUity, and, wishing to hold the balance of authority, it pitted the two extremes of society against eaoh other. But these ParUaments, as re garded the ti-ue interests of the country at large, were mere mockeries — for they were only summoned when the Crown required the consent of the Commons to laws passed to strengthen itself, to levy taxes, to curb the power of the Church by the statute de mortmain; or of the nobles, by the statute de donis. This, untU the Eevolution of 1688, was all the share the Commons had in the government — for the tradition of an here ditary monarchy in aUiance with an hereditary nobiUty was faithfuUy observed ; and no commoner, except through the doors of the Church or the law, was ever raised to a high ofloe in the state. A dozen of such elevations in six centuries wUl cover aU these pro motions from the ranks of the people. 126 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. and in memorial of his subjection, the Scotch King deposited his breast plate, ' spear, and saddle, on the altar of St. Peter, in the Cathedral church. About this period York appears to have been eminent for trade, for a few years later, the King, under pretence of raising money for the Holy Wars, imposed upon his subjects a contribution of one-tenth of their moveables, and demanded from the City of York, one-half of the sum that he required from London. In the beginning of the reign of Richard I. (surnamed Coeur de Lion — the lion-hearted) a general massacre of the resident Jews took place, under circumstances of peculiar atrocity. The Crusades to the Holy Land, to rescue Jerusaleni from the hands of the Saracens, tended to inflame the zeal of the nation against aU men not bearing the name of Christian ; besides, the pre judices of the age had stigmatized money lenders at interest, with the odious name of usurers. Another cause of the implacable hatred, and pubUc hos- tiUty of the English people, to the Children of Israel, was, that they had been introduced by the Norman Conqueror, and a number of them settled in York soon after the Conquest, whose immense increase of wealth, eventuaUy proved to them a source of terrible evil. The King, who was crowned with great pomp at Westminster, on the 3rd of September, 1189, with a view to obtain popular favour, strictly forbid the presence of any Jew whatever at his coronation. Notwithstanding this prohibition, two of the most wealthy Jews of York, named Benedict and Jocenus, repaired to London, with a pompous retinue, in order to meet their brethren, and to offer some valuable presents to the King, as a peace-offering at his coronation. On the day of the ceremonial, many of the Jews mixed in the crowd, and the populace, with a savage ferocity, commenced a general massacre of them in Londjsn, plundered their property, burnt down their houses, and destroyed numbers of their wives and children. Benedict and Jocenus were attacked : and the former being grievously wounded, was dragged into a church, where he was forced to renounce Judaism, and submit to the ceremony of baptism. But the next day, when the heroic Israelite was brought into the presence of the King, and asked whether he was a Christian or no, he boldly answered, that he was a Jew, and should die in the faith of his fathers. The King ordered him to be restored to his friends, but he soon afterwards died from the effect of his bruises. Jocenus returned unhurt to York, where a stiU more awful fate awaited him. During a very boisterous night, the City, either by ac cident or design, took fire, and the flames rapidly spread in all directions. This calamity was seized upon to renew the perseeutions against the Jews ; and whUe the citizens were engaged in extinguishing the flames, the house of Benedict was vielently entered by the lawless rabble, who murdered the GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 127 widow and children of the deceased Jew, and seized all the property upon which they could lay their rapacious hands. Alarmed at this outrage, Jocenus sought refuge in the Castle, to which he removed his family, and the whole of his wealth; and his example was foUowed by nearly all the Jews in the City. In a few days the house of Jocenus shared the fate of that of Benedict. The Governor of the Castle having some business without its walls, left it for a short time in the possession of the Jews, who, fearing that he might have' joined in the conspiracy with their enemies, refused to re-admit him on his return. The Sheriff, enraged at this indignity, "issued his writ of posse comitatus, to raise the country to besiege and take the Castle. Though an innumerable company of armed men, as weU from the City as from the surrounding country, rose simultaneously, and begirt the Castle, yet the wiser and the better sort of citizens stood aloof from a flood that might soon over whelm themselves. Roger de Hoveden informs us that the Jews, now driven to extremities, held a Council, and offered a very large sum of money to be aUowed to escape with their lives, but the offer was rejected. We are told by Matthew Paris, that the Council was then addressed by a certain foreign rabbi, or doctor of their laws, who had visited England for the instruction of the Jews, as foUows : — " Men of Israel, our God, whose laws I have pres cribed to you, has commanded that we should at any time be ready to die for those laws ; and now, when death looks us in the face, we have only to choose whether we should prolong a base and infamous life, or embrace a gaUant and glorious death. If we faU into the hands of our enemies, at their wiU and pleasure we must die ; but our Creator, who gave us life, did also enjoin that with our own hands, and of our own accord, we should devoutly restore it to him again, rather than await the cruelty of an enemy.'' This invitation, to imitate the example of the followers of Josephus, in the Cave of Jotapata, was embraced by many of the Jews, but others chose rather to try thedemency of the Christians, upon which the rabbi further said, " Let those whom this good and pious discourse displeases, separate themselves, and be cut off from the congregation ! We, for the sake of our paternal law, despise this transitory life." Before the self-:devoted victims began to execute the sentence upon each other, they set fire to the Castle, and committed aU their property to the flames, to prevent it faUing into the hands of their enemies. The rabbi then directed that the husbands should cut the throats of their own wives and children ; and Jocenus began the execution, by applying the knife to the throats of his wife and five children. The example was speedily foUowed by the other masters of families ; and afterwards, as a mark of pecu Uar honour, the rabbi cut the throat of Jocenus himself! The last of the 128 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. victims was the seU-devoted adviser of the deed, who was probably the only actual suicide. The survivors then announced the horrid catastrophe which had befaUen their brethren, to the besiegers, casting the dead bodies of the victims over the waU to convince them of the reaUty of their story. At the same time they supplicated for mercy, promising to become Christians. Pretending to compassionate their sufferings, and promising pardon on the condition named, the merciless barbarians obtained admission into the Castle, and slew every one of the poor Jews, though to the last they cried out for baptism. The diabolical murderers then hastened to the Cathedral, where the bonds (for loans), which the Christians had given to the Jews, were deposited, and breaking open the chests, burnt in the midst of the nave of the church, all the documents they contained, thus freeing themselves and others from their obligations.* This massacre, in which it is supposed that not less than from 1,500 to 2,000 Jews in York feU victims, occurred on the 11th of March, 1190. And in spite of a proclamation in their favour by the King, the same spirit of persecution manifested itself in many of the large towns of the King dom about that period. These horrors are uniformly reprobrated by the historians of the time. When the King, who had embarked for the Holy Land, heard of these enormities, he sent orders to his ChanceUor and Regent; WilUam Longchamp, Bishop of Ely, to go down into Yorkshire, and execute strict justice upon the offenders, but many of the miscreants had fled from the City, and the remaining citizens declared that the inhabitants of the neighbouring towns were the principal offenders. However he deposed, and committed the Sheriff and Governor to prison ; took away one hundred hos tages ; repaired the Castle ; inflicted fines upon a few of the citizens ;t and gave the government of the County to his brother, Osbert de Longchamp. Notwithstanding this sanguinary persecution, a new colony of Jews soon settled in York, where they remained till the time of Edward I. The reader of English history knows that Richard I., so glorious to miUtary fame, and so oppressive to his subjects, after performing prodigies of personal valour in Palestine, and becoming a hero of romance, had the misfortune to be trepanned in his way home, by Leopold, Duke of Austria, who sold him to the Emperor of Germany; and that he was transported by his new pro prietor from Vienna to Mentz, and other places, where he was generally kept * Hoveden, 379. Dicets, 651. Brompton, 1172. -h Eichard Malebisse paid ccc marks for his pardon, &o., on account of being con cerned in the slaughter of the Jews at York. Again, xx marks to have his land restored, which was seized on that occasion. — Maddox's Exchequer, 300. GENEEAL HIS'TOEY of YOEKSHIEE. 129 in rigorous confinement, till a treaty was concluded, by which the Emperor extorted from him, or rather from the people of England, 100,000 marks of sUver, of the weight of Cologne.* To raise this immense sum, as well as to replenish the exhausted treasury, recourse was had to the sale of offices of trust and honour ; the situations of Sheriff and Justiciary were disposed of to the highest bidder ; and Richard declared that he would sell the City of London if he could find a purchaser. The Corporation charters too, of the various boroughs, were renewed or confirmed, on payment of heavy fines. In 1195, Geoffrey Plantagenet, Archbishop of York, possessed himself of the shrievalty of the County of York, on payment of a fine to the King, of 3000 marks. Having by this means united the temporal and spiritual authori ties, this prelate, who was the natural son of King Henry II., flourished with all.the power and dignity of a sovereign Prince, in the north of England. The office of High Sheriff was, in these times, one of great trust and res ponsibility ; as the keeper of the King's peace, he was the first man in the County, and superior in rank to any nobleman. He was the King's farmer or baiUff; the coUector bf all the royal rents and revenues within his district ; to his custody were entrusted aU the royal Castles and Manors lying within the baiUwick; and he provided the Castles and fortified towns with ammu nition and other necessaries. He was dignified with the title of Viscount, and aU the freeholders of the County, whatever might be their rank, were obUged to give their personal attendance, to swell out the magnificence of his train. From this service, even the richest and ndost powerful Barons were not exempt. Hence the Tetinue of a provincial Sheriff must have equalled that of a powerful monarch. The reign of King John began in turbulence, and ended in disgrace. Ac cording ft) the custom of these times, when the monarch had no settled re venue, it was usual for him to renew the Borough Charters at his accession, for the purpose of recruiting his treasury ; and John followed this example. In the beginning of his reign, his Majesty, accompanied by the Queen and many of his principal Barons, made a progress into the north. The royal party crossed the Humber from Grimsby, and proceeded to Cottingham and Beverley, and thence to York, where a Convention was held, which was at tended by the King of Scotland and his nobles. It appears that, on this occasion, the citizens were not weU affected towards John, for they refused to show him any marks of honourable greeting, or to display the usual tokens * The mark was an indeterminate sum, which varied in different ages. Some have stated it at 6 oz., others at 8 oz. Maddox says a mark of gold was equal to sis pounds,, or six score shilUngs ; the mark of silver, 13s. 4d. s 130 GENERAL HISTORY OP YORKSHIRE. of joy and congratulation at the presence of their Sovereign amongst them. The irritable monarch was so highly incensed at this instance of neglect, that he amerced the City in the sum of JEIOO, In the last year of this troublous reign (1216), the northern Barons laid siege to York, but granted a truce, and retired on receiving 1000 marks from the citizens. In 1220, Henry IIL attended a Convocation at York, in which Alex ander, King of Scotland, swore to marry the Lady Joanna, or Jane, Henry's eldest sister; and in the following year,- the marriage was solemnized in the Cathedral Church of this City, in the presence of the King, amidst very splendid festivities. This was the lady whom the Scots in derision called Joan Makepeace. " A name not in vain," says Buchanan, " for, from that time, there was a strict aUiance between the two Kings." On the same occasion, was solemnized the marriage of Hubert de Burgh, the Justiciary, and Margaret, sister of King Alexander. In 1230, Henry and the King of Scotland, with the principal nobUity, kept Christmas at York, in a most magnificent manner; and in 1237, Cardinal Otto, the Pope's Legate, ne- gociated a peace between the Kings of England and Scotland, who met at York for that purpose. In 1251, the marriage of Alexander II. of Scotland, and Margaret, the beautiful daughter of Henry IIL, was celebrated at York, with all the mag nificence and grandeur suitable to the nuptials of such exalted persons. All the peers of the realm accompanied Henry and his Queen ; and the Scottish King was attended by his mother, and a large retinue of his nohility. On Christmas Day, Henry conferred the honour of Knighthood on Alexander and twenty of his nobles; and on the following day the royal pair were married in the Cathedral, by the Archbishop, Walter de Grey. As we have just stated, an immense number of military commanders, and oth* persons of rank, attended Henry ; and Alexander was attended by more than sixty Knights, clad in a most superb manner. During the stay of these monarchs in York, the Archbishop several times entertained them with princely mag nificence and grandeur ; expending during the visit of the royal party more than 4,000 marks, or nearly J2,700. For one feast alone he had sixty fat oxen roasted and cooked in various ways. In this chivalrous age, mock contests formed the principal amusements of the nobility. On aU great occasions a tournament was formally proclaimed ; and here the aspiring warrior had an opportunity of recommending himself at once to the notice of his Sovereign, and the recommendation of his supe-, riors, which led the way to honourable distinction ; and of exciting at the same time the admiration and esteem of the softer sex, by the display of GENERAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. 191 superior strength, activity, or miUtary skill. On the present occasion, a grand tourna,ment took place at York, in the presence of the two Kings, and all the principal nobility of England and Scotland. In 1291, Edward I. visited York on his way to Scotland ; when the famous Welshman, the re presentative of the ancient Princes of South Wales, Rees-ap-Meredith, was tried and condemned here for high treason, and drawn through the City to the gaUows, where he was hanged and quartered.* In 1296, the Scots having made an inroad into England, this valiant monarch marched against them with a weU appointed army, and joining in battle, he slew 28,000 of the enemy in the field, and put the rest to flight. Berwick, Dunbar, and Edinburgh, and other places, opened their gates to the conqueror ; and John BaUol, the Scottish King, was forced to resign his Kingdom by a Charter, dated 10th of July, at Brechin. The sceptre, coronation stone, &c., were sent to London.f In 1298, the same monarch summoned a special Parliament to meet at York, when the English Barons assembled in great numbers; those who disobeyed the order to be present, being accounted rebels. At this assembly, the King's confirmation of Magna Charta (or the Great Charter), with the Charta de Forresta (Charter of the Forests), was read, and the Bishop of Carlisle pronounced a curse upon aU who should attempt to violate them. The Scottish lords, who were summoned -to attend this ParUament, not making their appearance, the EngUsh lords decreed, that an army should be * Stowe's Annftls. Theword"Ap" is aWelsh prefix, equivalentto "Mao "in Scotland, and the " 0 " in Ireland. •f This famous stone, on which the inauguration of the Scottish Kings was performed, was removed from the monastery of Scone, in Perthshire, and is now inserted in the seat of the Coronation chair of the Sovereigns of England. It is a flat stone, nearly square, and is said to be the identical stone which formed Jacob's pUlow, when he had those celestial and mystical visions mentioned in holy writ. Tradition says it was brought out of Palestine into Ireland, and was there used as the inauguration stone of the Kings of that country; that it was brought from Ireland by Fergus, the sou of Eric, who led the Dabriads to the shores of Argyleshire ; and was deposited in the City of Scone. An old antiquarian has described this stone, " the ancientest respected monu ment in the world ; for, although some others may be more ancient as to duration, yet fus superstitiously regarded they are not." The antiquity of this " Stone of Destiny " undoubted, however it may be questioned whether it be the same stone on which the ancient Kings of Ireland were crowned on the hill of Tara. The history of its being used for the Coronation of the Scottish Kings, and of its removal froin Scone by Edward I., admits of no doubt. A record exists of the expenses attending its re moval. The curious visitor to London, may inspect it, together with the ancient chair made for its reception in the reign of Edward I., in the Chapel of St'Edward the Con fessor, Westminster Abbey. 132 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. sent under the command of the Earl of Surrey, to relieve Roxborough, which the Scots were at that time besieging. At this Parliament, the Commons of the Realm granted the King the ninth part of their goods; the Archbishop of Canterbury, with the Clergy of his province, the tenth penny; and the Archbishop of York, with his clergy, a fifth. After the famous battle of Falkirk, in which the celebrated chieftain. Sir WiUiam Wallace, was defeated. King Edward returned to York, and held another Parliament there. In 1304, Edward completed the reduction of Scotland, though not its subjugation; and after disbanding his army, he ordered the Courts of Exchequer and King's Bench, which had continued- during seven years at York, to resume their former station at Westminster. York then ranked amongst the English ports, and furnished one vessel to Edward's fleet ; but Hull had already begun to rise its fame as a maritime town, and when vessels were built on a larger scale, it absorbed a great share of the commerce which was formerly confined to this City. Edward, having conquered; and united tbe Principality of Wales to the Crown of England, and having cpnstrained the Scots to swear fealty to him, spent the winter before his death at Carlisle, where he summoned his last Parliament. The Scots, taking advantage of the King's absence, and of his having dismissed his army, assembled their dispersed forces, attacked and obtained a signal victory over the English troops, and took prisoner the Earl of Pembroke, who commanded in Scotland. Exasperated at this unexpected revolution, Edward resolved to march into the heart of Scotland, and destroy the Kingdom from sea to sea ; and to that end he summoned all th'e vassals of the Crown to meet him at Carlisle, about the middle of summer, on pain of forfeiting their fees. But, whilst "man proposes, God disposes;'- no sooner had Edward assembled the finest army England had ever seen, than he was seized with a distemper, which put an end to his days, and aU his projects. On his deathbed he earnestly recommended Prince Edward, his eldest son and successor, to prosecute the war with Scotland with the utmost vigour. He also advised the Prince to carry along with him his remains at the head of the army, not doubting but that the sight of his bones would daunt the courage of the enemies he had thrice conquered. After these last orders to his son, he caused himself to be carried by easy journeys to meet the enemy ; but 1^ had not advanced above five mUes, to a village in Cumberland, called Burgh- upon-Sands, when his sickness was increased by an attack of dysentery, which carried him off on the 7th of July, 1307, in the 68th year of his age, and 35th of his reign. And thus ended the career of the warlike, politic, hut unjust King Edward I., who has been deservedly caUed " the hammer of GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. 133 Scotland." His body was conveyed to Westminster Abbey, and laid by the remains of Henry, his father ; and the memory of his death is preserved on the spot where he died, by a square pillar bearing an appropriate Latin inscription.* One of the greatest evils of the feudal system was, that when a feeble monarch fiUed the throne, the Kingdom was torn to pieces by domestic faction and civil war. The vast domains of some of the nobles, over which their authority was almost unlimited, gave them a power nearly equal to that of the King ; and the reader of English history is well aware that these factious chieftains often raised the standard of rebeUion, even against their monarchs. Edward H. was one of the most weak and unfortunate of the English Kings ; and his idleness, incapacity, and passion for favourites, proved his ruin. His inordinate attachment to Piers de Gaveston, together with the haughty, ar rogant, and insolent disposition of the favourite, led to a combination of the nobility against them. Gaveston, and some of his foUowers, had been banished from the Kingdom by Edward I., but in the year 1312, Edward II., in an evil hour, invited him to meet him at York, and, according to Stowe, " received him as a gift from heaven." On this occasion the King kept his Christmas at York. The return of the favourite excited the resentment of the Barons, and, as we have stated, a powerful conspiracy was formed against him. Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, cousin-german to the King, first Prince of the blood, and one of the most opulent and powerful subjects in the Kingdom, was the chief of the party who had bound themselves, by an oath, to expel Gaveston; and he suddenly raised an army, and marched to York, the waUs of which City Edward had caused to be strongly fortified, and put in a posture of defence, in anticipation of this outbreak. The King, hearing of the approach of Lancaster, fled with his favourite to Newcastle, whither the Earl foUowed in pursuit of them ; but before the arrival of the pursuers, Edward had just time to escape to Tynemouth, where he embarked, and saUed with Gaveston to Scarborough. The Castle of the latter place being deemed impregnable, the King left his favourite in it (some say that he made him Governor of that fortress), and returned to York, either tljraise an army to oppose his enemies, or, by his presence, to allay their animosity. In the meantime the confederated nobles sent the Earl of Pembroke, with a strong force, to- besiege Scarborough, which, after a gal- • • The original monument was erected by Henry, Duke of Norfolk, in 16S5 ; but it having gone to decay, the present pUlar was raised by the late Earl of Lonsdale in 1803. 134 GENERAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIRE. lant defence, capitulated upon merciful terms (afterwards flagrantly violated by the victor) which extended even to Gaveston himself, who was, however, taken prisoner. Pembroke, now master of the person of this public enemy, conducted him to the Castle of Deddington, near Banbury, where, on pre tence of other business, he left him protected by a feeble guard. The Earl of Warwick, probably in concert with Pembroke, attacked the Castle ; the garrison refused to make any resistance, and the unfortunate Gaveston was yielded up to him, and conducted to Warwick Castle, The Earls of Lan caster, Hereford, and Arundel, immediately repaired thither, and without any regard either to the laws or the military capitulation, they ordered the obnoxious favourite to be beheaded, and the execution took place on Blacklow HUl (now Gaversley Heath), on the 20th of June, 1313. Such was the miserable end of Edward's first favourite. After the disastrous battle of Bannockburn, in 1314, in which Edward lost about 50,000 men, he narrowly escaped to York, where he held a great CouncU. At this time the prices of the foUowing articles were fixed by the King's writs : — for a staU or corn fed ox, not more than ^1. 4s. ; for a grass fed ox, not more than 16s. ; for a fat Stalled cow, 12s. ; for a corn fed mutton with wppl grown, Is. 8d. ; a fat hog, two years old, not to exceed 3s. 4d. ; a fat goose, 2id. ; a fat capon, 2d. ; a fat hen, er two chickens, l^d. ; and 24 eggs, not more than Id. In the year 1315 there was a great famine and mortality ; the flesh ef beasts was corrupted ; men were forced to feed on dogs and horses ; many, it is said, eat not only their own chUdren, but stole others to devour them also ; whUst the old prisoners in some of the prisons fell upon those newly brought in amongst them, and greedily devoured them whilst half aUve. In the year foUowing, Sir JosseUne DanviUe, and his brother Robert, who, with 200 men in the habit of friars, attacked the episcopal palace at Durham, and committed many notable robberies, were executed at York. In the same year the King issued orders from Beverley, for arming the whole population of Yorkshire and Northumberland, between the ages of sixteen and sixty, both horse and foot ; with directions that they should be prepared to march with him against the Scots ; and he appointed officers to see that his com mands were carried into execution.* On the 15th of September he ordered * The regular and established modes of assembling armies in former times, when the constitutional mUitary force of England consisted of feudal troops, and the posse comitatus, were as follows : — The tenant who held in capite, that is one who held imme diately froni the King, the quantity of land amounting to a Knight's fee, was to holdhim- Belf ia readiness, with horse aud arms, to serve the Eing in war, either at home or abroad, GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 135 the levy in the County of York to be inspected. The northern parts of the Kingdom were so exhausted that the King was compelled to recruit his forces from the southern and western parts ; and on the 12th of August, 1318, he issued orders from Nottingham, to every City and Borough throughout England, to raise the number of men appointed in the respective summonses ; and to have them well armed and accoutred, to resist the threatened invasion of the Scots.* The campaign not having commenced tUl the following spring, the King issued orders early in the year for arming the population of the whole Kingdom between the ages of twenty and sixty. By the King's order, according to Stowe, the Clerks of the Exchequer set out for York, on the 15th of Oatober, 1319, with the Domesday Book and other records, which, with provision, laded twenty-one carts. The Judges of the King's Bench came at the same time, and continued to transact the business of tbe Court in the City of York for six months. In 1318, the whole of the north of England, to the middle of Yorkshire, was ravaged with fire and sword, by an army of Scottish marauders, under the command of Bruce's famous Generals, — Thomas Randolph, Earl of Murray, and Sir James Douglas ; and having burned the towns of North aUerton, Boroughbridge, Knaresborough, Skipton, and Scarborough, and imposed a contribution of 1,000 marks upon the inhabitants of Ripon, they at Ms own expense, for a stated time ; generaUy forty days in the year ; and this service being accompUshed, the tenant conld either return home, or if he or his foUowers after wards continued to serve with the army, they were paid by the King. The quantity of land, or sum of money, which constituted a Knight's fee, appears to have varied at different periods. In the reigns of Henry II., and Edward II., a Knight's fee was stated at d£20. per annum ; and the number of Knight's fees in the Kingdom was estimated at 60,000. — Grose's Mil. Antiq., vol. i., p. 4. A tenant who had several Knight's fees, might discharge them by able substitutes. The posse comitatus included every free man between the ages of fifteen and sixty. The chief duty of this body being to preserve peace, under the command of the Sheriff, they differed from the feudal troops, inasmuch as they were not liable to be called out, except in case of intemal commotion,"or actual invasion; on such occasions they could legally be marched out of their respective counties, but in no case oould they be sent to do mUitary duty out of the Kingdom. Besides these means of raising armies, under the authority of the royal prerogative, on extraordinary occasions, districts, cities, burghs, and even particular persons, were obUged to find men, horses, and arms, at the will and pleasure of his Sovereign. After the 16th of Edward III. (1343), new forms and modes of raising men were adopted. The monarchs contracted with their nobiUty and gentry to find them soldiers, at certain wages, and their parliaments suppUed them with the means. * The comparative proportion of men raised in different towns in the neighbourhood may be seen in the foUowing list :— York, 100 foot ; Beverley, 30 ; Scarbewough, 30 ; HuU, 20; Grimsby, 30; Doncaster, 10; Stamford, 15; mi Derby, 10. 136 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. returned to Scotland, laden with much plunder, and carrying with them a great number of prisoners. This calamity was followed next year by a famine and pestilent disease, which carried off great numbers of the inhabitants left in the plundered districts. In 1320, the army raised by Edward being at length organised, that monarch marched into the north at the head of it, and laid siege to the town of Berwick-upon-Tweed ; but he had scarcely sat down before that place, when Randolph, the Scottish General, instead of attacking the King at Berwick, led his forces across the Solway, and laid the country waste with fire and sword, even to the gates of York ; and after burning the suburbs of the City, returned northwards with their booty. WiUiam de Melton, at that time Archbishop, indignant»at the insult thus offered to the City, took up arms, and hastily raised an army, composed of priests, canons, monks, husbandmen, artificers, and others, to the number of 10,000 riien ; and with this undisciplined band, he pursued the Scots, and unfortunately overtook them at Myton-upon-Swale, three miles east of Boroughbridge ; where, with more zeal than skill, he attacked them on the 12th of October (1320). "These able soldiers," says Holinshed, "had, as experienced commanders, the Archbishop, and the Bishop of Ely, who were much fitter to pray for the success of a battle, than to fight it." Aware of the pursuit, the Scots laid an ambuscade, and waited for the Archbishop's army, in the order of battle. According to the old chronicler, the scene of the battle was the " Myton meadow, near the Swale water." This would then be a large open field, now enclosed, and known by the name of " The Ings," extending about a mile along the east bank of the Swale, before its junction with the Ure, and an equal distance down the north bank of the Ouse. " Our idea of the battle,'' writes the editor of the Battle Fields of Yorlcshire, " is, that the EngUsh were advancing, over the open field, towards the Swale, enclosed on two sides by rivers, when the Scots, 'among the hay kockes bushed,' on the higher ground to the north, above, and about the viUage of Myton, setting fire to the hay, rushed suddenly, under cover of the smoke, upon their unprepared antagonists, cooped up in a bad situation, and routed them with little loss on their own side; while that of the English amounted to between 3,000 and 4,000, of which 2,000 were drowned, most probably in the waters of the Ouse, opposite the viUage of Dunsforth, where the river is both wide and deep." It is how ever certain, that after a feeble resistance, the English were defeated, with the loss just stated, including Nicholas Fleming, who was then forthe seventh time. Mayor of York. In this battle such a number of ecclesiastics, in fuU canonicals, fell (three GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 137 hundred, according to Dr. Lingard), that it was, says Buchanan, for a long time caUed the White Battle; and is sportively recorded by the Scottish writers, under the title of the Chapter qf Myton (or Mitton, as they errone ously call it). The Archbishop himself had a very narrow escape, and had business enough to fill up the vacancies in the church, on his return. The body of the Mayor of York was honourably interred in the parish church of St. Wilfrid, at York, and the Archbishop granted an indulgence of forty days to all the citizens, who, being truly penitent, should approach the sacraments, and say a Pater-noster and Ave-Maria for the repose of his soul. A chantry was also founded for him in the same church. The Scots returned home without further molestation, \u.t with a large increase of spoil ; and Edward, as soon as he heard of the event, raised the siege of Berwick, and hastily retired to York. The King had now another great favourite, in the person of Hugh de Spencer, a man of considerable exterior accomplishments, but destitute of all prudence and moderation. His rapacity led to a combination of the nobles against him in 1321, and Edward was compelled to banish both him and his father beyond the sea. In a short time, the King found himself in a situation to bid defiance to his enemies, and the Spencers were recalled. Again the factious, turbulent, but powerful Earl of Lancaster headed a con federacy of the nobles, and raised an army to oppose the King ; but having entered into an alliance with Bruce, King of Scotland, many of the English deserted him, and joined the standard of Edward. Lancaster, with the Earl of Hereford and a few other noblemen, having failed in an attempt to secure a position at Burton-upon-Trent, hastily retreated northward, to join the succours which were expected from Scotland. On the 16th of March, 1321, he arrived at Boroughbridge, where he found Sir Andrew Harcla, Governor of Carlisle, and Warden of the Western Marches, and Sir Simon Ward, Sheriff of Yorkshire, with a strong force, ready to bar his further progress. Harcla, who had received the honour of Knighthood at the hand of Lancaster, was now tempted to prove his gratitude to him, at the expense of his duty to his Sovereign. Lancaster promised to confer upon him oue of the five Earldoms then in his possession, if he (Harcla) would help with the forces under his command, to remove the Spencers ; but the Warden of the Marches was incorruptible; and the Earl had nothing left but to turn back, and fight the King's army, which was in pursuit of him, or force the passage of the river before it came up ; and he chose the latter of these alternatives. The river, which is here about sixty yards wide, was at that time traversed by a wooden bridge, the small town of Boroughbridge standing on the south side. 138 GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YORKSHIRE. The Earl's archers first begin the fight, but were repeUed by the more potent discharge of their adversaries. The men-at-arms next attempted to force the passage of the river, and the Earl of Hereford was slain by the thrust of a lance below his armour, through a chink in the bridge, by a Welsh soldier, who had hid himself beneath. Sir William SuUey and Sir Roger Bernefield were slain, and Sir Roger Clifford was wounded on the head. During this attack, Lancaster had led a part of his army to a ford, a little lower down ; but here again he was repelled by a shower of arrows from the opposite bank. Seeing aU his attempts to pass the river by force baffled, his courage entirely failed him, and he retired into a chapel, where he was seized, stripped of his armour, and treated with great indignity. The rest of his party were dis persed, and a great many of them taken. Lancaster was conveyed to York, where he was insulted, pelted with dirt, and caUed in derision " King Arthur." He was then imprisoned in the Castle of Pontefract, in a dungeon, in a new tower, which he himself had recently made, and the only entrance to which was by a trap-door in the floor of the turret. Shortly afterwards the King being at Pontefract, the Earl was arraigned, in the hall of the Castle, before a small number of peers, among whom were the Spencers, his mortal enemies. As might have been expected, he was condemned, and Sentenced to be hanged, drawn, and quartered ; but through respect for his royal blood, the punish ment was changed to decapitation ; and the sentence was immediately put into execution. The fate of Lancaster involved that of many others. Never since the Conquest had such havoc been made among the ancient nobility ; never since then had the scaffold been drenched with so much noble blood as on this occasion. No less than ninety-flve Barons and Knights were taken prisoners, and afterwards tried for high treason. The Lords W^arren de Lisle, WilUam Touchet, Thomas Mandute, Fitz William the younger, WUliam Cheney, and Henry de Bradburn, were executed at Pontefract; and the Lords Clifford, Mowbray, and Deynville, were executed at York, and their bodies hung in chains. The wooden bridge, upon whioh the fate of the Lancaster faction was de cided, has since been succeeded by a handsome one bf stone. The ground occupied by the forces of Harcla and Ward, is now covered with houses, timber and coal yards ; and partly by a short canal, belonging to the river Ure navigation. At a place called The Old Banks, below the bridge, many fragments of arms and armour were found in 1792, when the embankments of the river were formed.- These were probably relics of this battle. In 1322, the King, after having conciUated the Barons, held another Par liament in York, in whioh the decree, made in the preceding year in London, GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. 139 for alienating their estates, was reversed, and the elder Spencer created Earl of Winchester. At this ParUament the several ordinances of the Barons, made at different times, were examined, and such of them as were confirmed, were, by the King's order, directed to be called statutes; the Clergy of the Province of York granted the King a subsidy of fourpence in each mark ; Robert Baldock was made Lord Chancellor ; and Edward, the King's eldest son, was created Prince of Wales, and Duke of Aquitain. After the dissolu tion of this ParUament, Edward raised an immense army to oppose Robert Bruce, who was then desolating the English border ; and in the month of August, in the same year, at the head of this army, he marched into Scot land; and though the enemy had destroyed aU the forage, he penetrated as far as Edinburgh, into this region of total famine. Being obliged to retire for want of provisions, this mighty host retreated to England, and so ravenous were the soldiers, after their late abstinence, that no less than 16,000 of them died of repletion, Bruce, aware of the retreat of the English, closely followed them, and then he became the aggressor. In order to end the war, he con ceived the bold design of capturing the person of the King ; and with that intention, he came up with the English army, encamped upon an advanta geous piece of ground, near Byland Abbey, about fourteen mUes from York, which Edward had made his head quarters, whUe he refreshed and recruited his men. The English were posted on the Abbey bank — ^a high ridge of land, extending from Cambe Hill, by Oldstead, to the viUage of Wass — a roost favourable position. Bruce, who weU knew how tp encounter great obstacles in the field, sent his two associates in arms, Randolph and Douglas, to storm the narrow pass, which led to the top of the hiU ; whUst he turned the English position, by sending a body of Highlanders to scale the steep chff, and thus surprised the enemy, by attacking them at once in flank and rear. After a short fight the English were routed, and fled, leaving their strong position, and much spoU in the hands of the victors. Edward, who was at dinner in the Abbey when the battle began, made his escape to York with difficulty, but he was indebted for his safety to the swiftness of his horse. He left his privy seal, plate, money, and other treasures, behind him. The fugitives were chased towards York by Walter Stewart, before which City, it is said, he halted until the evening, with only five hundred men-at-arms, to see if the enemy would come out to the encounter. There is no record of the number slain in this fight, but several of the nobility were taken prisoners, among whom were John de Bretagne and Henry de SuUy. The Scottish army returned unmolested, and laden with spoU, Byland Abbey, so close to liO GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. the scene of conflict, was no doubt plundered of aU that was worth carrying away ; but it was not destroyed, nor its inmates slaughtered, as were those of Dryburgh and Melrose by the EngUsh in their late incursion. According to the expression of the old chronicle, the battle of Byland Abbey took place " fifteen days after Michaelmas, 1322." Sir Andrew Harcla, then Earl of Carlisle, was accused of having entered into a traitorous correspondence with the Scottish King, and of supineness and wilful inaction, in not interrupting the march of the Scots, and thus preventing them pur suing the retreat of Edward ; and with all the savage barbarity of the times, he was tried, condemned, and executed. But even the guilt of that unfor tunate nobleman (and that is doubtful) could not shift the blame of the shameful defeat and infamous flight of the English, their army being much more numerous than that of the Scots. After this battle a truce was agreed upon between the two nations, to continue for the space of thirteen years. Edward was shortly after deposed and imprisoned by the direction of Mor timer, the paramour of his Queen, Isabella ; and he was finally murdered with unparaUeled cruelty. His son, then but fourteen years old, was crowned in 1327, under the title of Edward III. ; and his reign, which lasted for fifty years and a few months, shines with much lustre in the annals of England, and constitutes a splendid period in the history of York. In the first year of his reign, the youthful King ordered his whole army to rendez vous in York, in order to oppose the Scots, who, with -two powerful armies, including 20,000 Ught cavalry, under the conduct of the distinguished Gene rals, Randolph and Douglas, were ravaging the northern part of the Kingdom. While the King lay at York, preparing for the expedition, he was joined by John, Lord Beaumont of Hainault, and several other knights and gentlemen, who, with his retinue, composed a, band of five hundred, or, according to Knightson, of two thousand men. Most of these foreigners were lodged in the suburbs, but to Lord John himself, the King assigned the Monastery pf the White Monks in the City. The King, with the Queen-mother, made their abode at the Monastery of the Friars Minors. For six weeks Edward held his Court at York, whilst an army of sixty thousand men was being raised. On Trinity Sunday the King gave a splendid entertainment at the Monas tery. To his usual retinue of five hundred Knights, he added sixty more ; and the Queen-mother had in her suite sixty ladies of the highest rank and greatest beauty in England. During the festivities a contest arose between the Hainaulters and a body of Lincolnshire archers, who lodged with them in the suburbs ; and hostilities once begun, abettors successively came in on both sides, till nearly 3,000 of GteNEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. l4l the archers were coUected. Many of the foreigners were slain, aud the rest were obliged to retire. During the fray part of the City took fire, and it was with difficulty that the flames were subdued. On the following night the foreigners determined ou revenge, headed by their officers, fell upon the Lincolnshire and Northamptonshire archers, and slew about 300 of them. This rash act induced the English to combine, to the number of 6,000, in the horrible resolution of sacrificing the whole of the Hainaulters ; but this catastrophe was arrested, and the tranquiUity of the City restored by the firmness and wise precautions of the King. The Scots being informed of the warUke preparations of Edward, sent ambassadors to York to negociate a treaty of peace ; upon the failure of which, Edward advanced against them with his army, in aU the martial pomp of those chivalrous times. After a close pursuit the enemy was at last overtaken and surrounded at Stanhope Park, and would have surrendered but for the treachery of Lord Mortimer, who opened a road for their escape. The Scots then withdrew their forces, but Douglas assaulted the English camp at night, and nearly succeeded in kiUing the King. On the failure of this attempt the Scots, after doing what mischief they could, retreated within their own territories. Edward, exces sively chagrined at the escape of an enemy whom he had so thoroughly in his power, returned to York, and afterwards to London. Lord John Beau mont, upon receiving £14,000. — the sum for which he and his foreign soldiers had been engaged, returned to the continent ; and shortly afterwards a mar riage was negociated between his niece, PhiUppa, the most celebrated beauty of the age, and the young King of England. This marriage was solemnized in the Cathedral of York, by the Archbishop of that Province, and the Bishop of Ely, on the 24th of January, 1328, it being the Sunday before the eve of the festival of the Conversion of St. Paul. The Court was then at York, and for three weeks the feastings, jousts, tournaments, maskings, revels, interludes, &c., were continued without inter mission. " Upon these happy nuptials," says Froissart, " the whole Kingdom teemed with joy." But jealousies again arose between the Hainault soldiery, which formed part of the retinue of Beaumont, and the English ; .and the former took advantage of this carnival to treat the latter with outrage and violence. The foreigners not only set fire to the suburbs of the City, by which a whole parish was nearly destroyed, but they violently assaulted several of the wives, daughters, and maid servants of the inhabitants. The citizens, enraged by these proceedings, armed themselves, and chaUenged the Hainaulters to battle. In this desperate contest, which took place in the 142 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. street, caUed Watlingate (now Lawrence Street), no less than 527 of the foreigners, and 242 Englishmen, were slain, or drowned in the Ouse. In 1332, Edward summoned another Parliament to York ; and two years afterwards, the King, on his march to Scotland, stayed and kept his Christ mas here. On his return from that country, he held another ParUament in this City, tP which Baliol, whose cause he had embraced, in opposition to David Bruce, was summoned to attend him ; but BaUol, not daring to trust himself, for fear of being seized by his Barons on his journey, sent the Lords Beaumont and Montecute to excuse him, and afterwards met the King at Newcastle. In 1335, Edward took up his residence at the Monastery of the Holy Trinity, in this City, and held a Council, in which the Bishop of Durham, then ChanceUor, resigned the great seal into his hands, and he immediately, gave it up- to the Archbishop of Canterbury, who took the usual oaths of office in the presence of the Council, and on the same day proceeded to the " Church of the Blessed Mary," where he affixed it to several deeds. It appears in Cotton's CoUections, that in this, and in the preceding reign, there were no less than twelve Parliaments assembled in York. During the wars in France, in which Edward and his renowned son, the Black Prince (so caUed from the colour of his armour), gained the memorable victories of Crecy and Poictiers, the Scots formed a resolution, suggested, most probably, by the French Monarch, to invade and ravage the northern Counties of England during Edward's absence. Accordingly, in 1346, David Bruce, with an army of 36,000 men, well armed and trained, entered by the eastern marches, and destroyed the countty with fire and sword as far as York ; and actuaUy set fire to the suburbs, and then retired to a short distance from that City. PhiUppa, the heroic consort of King Edward, who then kept hprCourt at York, issued peremptory orders to arm the population, vyhiether laity or clergy ; which was soon accomplished under the active^ superintendence of Archbishop WUliam de la Zouch, Lord Percy, and others; A gaUant army was soon assembled before the gates of York, and the Queen headed it in person. The second division was commanded by the Archbishop, in which were fotind aU the clergy pf the dipeese, who were able to bear arms. The two armies met at a place called Nevil's Cross, in the County ef Durham, on the 17th of October, in the same year ; and though the Scots; were unprepared for immediate action, yet they thought it an easy matter to ccnquer an army of clerks and citizens, commanded by a women and a priest. Bnt they were miserably deceived. The English, fighting for their altars and their homes, entered the battle with a fuU resolution not to survive the loss of their GENEEAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. 143 freedom. The carnage of that day was dreadful. The English gained a signal victory ; David Bruce was taken prisoner ; about 100 of the choicest Knights in Scotland lost their lives ; and 20,000 men perished in the con test.* The English lost 4,000 private men, and five Esquires. After the battle, the victorious Queen returned to York in triumph ; and having seen the City strongly fortified, and then leaving the Lords Percy and NeviUe to the government of the north, she returned to London, carrying her royal prisoner, in her train. WilUam de Hatfield, the second son of Edward and PhiUppa, died in his infancy in York, and was buried in the Cathedral. This reign was unhappily distinguished by a pestilence, called the " black death," which was uncommonly fatal and extensive. It broke out in 1349,f and raged at York for nine weeks, and considerably diminished the popula tion. It took a wider range, and proved more destructive than any calamity Pf that nature known in the annals of mankind. Its effects continued, in some degree, even to the time that Walsingham wrote, which was about seventy years afterwards. In the last year of this long and eventful reign, the Parliament granted the King a capitation tax of fourpence from every lay person Pf either sex, in the Kingdom, above fourteen years of age ; and twelve- pence from each beneficed clergyman. The only persons exempted from it, were the four mendicant orders of reUgious, and real known beggars. From the accounts of the produce of this tax, the entire population has been esti mated. The City of London was rated at 35,000 souls ; York, at 11,000 ; Bristol, 9,000 ; Coventry and Plymouth, each 7,000 ; Norwich, 6,000 ; Lin coln, 5,000; Lynn, 5,000; Colchester, 4,500 ; Beverley, Oxford,, and New castle-upon-Tyne, each 4,000 ; Ely, Canterbury, and Bury, in Suffolk, eaoh 3,500 ; Gloucester, Leicester, and Shrewsbury, each 3,O0O ; and Kingston- ttpOn-Hull, 2,000.]: Thus England had but two towns containing a population of more than 10,000 souls ; six only with a population exceeding 5,000 ; and but eighteen above 3,000. Richard IL, grandson to Henry TU., was but eleven years old when he came to the throne. The late King had left the Kingdom involved in many dangerous and expensive wars, which demanded large and constant suppUes. The capitation, or poU tax, levied at the close of the last reign, led the way to others in rapid sucCessipn. The ultimate consequence was an insurrection of the lower classes of the people ; occasioned, perhaps, not so much from the nature of the tax itself, as from the brutal insults attending its coUection. It * Knighton's CoU. 2590. -^ Walsingham, p. 118. { M.S. penes me, calculated from the Subsidy EoU of 51st Edward III, 144 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. began in Essex, and the rebels were headed by a profligate priest, who had assumed the name pf Jack Straw. The men of Kent, who were not long behind their neighbours in Essex, placed themselves under the leadership of a blacksmith, named Wat Tyler, or, according to some, a Kentish tyler, named Walter. The number of the rebels soon amounted to 100,000 men, and the discontent became general in the southern and midland counties. The flame of rebellion soon spread from the southern coast of Kent, to the right bank of the Humber ; on the southern coast it reached as far as Win chester; and on the eastern, to Beverley and Scarborough. Tyler, at the head of a large body of men, marched into London, and at Smithfield he was met by the King, who invited him to a conference, under a pretence of hearing and redressing his grievances. Tyler, ordering his companions to retire, presented himself before the King, and accordingly began the conference. Whilst stating his complaints, and making his demands, he now and then lifted up his sword in a menacing manner ; and at length he laid his hand on the bridle of his Sovereign, which insolence so raised the indignation of WiUiam Walworth, Mayor of London, who was attending on the King, that he stunned Tyler with a blow of the mace, and Robert Standish, one of the King's Esquires, riding up, dispatched him with his sword. The rebels seeing their leader fall, bent their bows to take revenge, when Richard, though not yet quite sixteen years of age, appealing to them, told them that he would be their leader, and that they should have whatever they desired. The mob followed the King into the fields at Islington, and there he granted to them a Charter, which he soon after revoked in ParUa ment. The Scots having entered Northumberland, and taken three Castles in the Marches, Richard, in 1385, set out from the south to oppose them, at the head of 80,000 men. The progress of the King was arrested at York, by an unfortunate circumstance, which cast a gloom over the sequel of the expe dition. In the neighbourhood of the City (near Bishopthorpe), Lord Ralph Stafford, eldest son of the Earl of Stafford, one of the royal favourites, was basely assassinated by the hand of Sir John Holland. The father and relatives of the slain loudly demanded justice; and Richard confiscated the properly of the assassin, and threatened him with the gallows, if he ever left the Sanctuary of St. John of Beverley, where he had taken refuge. In 1389, King Richard visited York, for the purpose of adjusting a disa greement between the ecclesiastical and civil authorities ; and during this visit he took his sword from his side, and gave it to be borne before WiUiam de Selby, the Mayor, and his successors, whom he dignified with the title of GENEEAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. 145 Lord Mayor, which honour has ever since been retained, and is possessed by no other City except those of London and Dublin.* Richard afterwards visited York several times, and granted the citizens some valuable charters, immu nities, and privUeges. In the year 1390 — 1, a contagious disease, of the nature of a plague, raged with great violence throughout England ; of which malady there feU a sacrifice to it, in the City of York alone, about 12,000 souls. In 1392, Richard, being displeased with the citizens of London, the Courts of King's Bench and Chancery were again removed to York, but they remained here only from Midsummer to Christmas. Thomas Arundel, Archbishop of the Diocese, was then Lord Chancellor. In the same year the King presented the first mace to the City, to be carried before the Lord Mayor, and a Cap of Main tenance to the sword bearer ;f and in 1396, the same Monarch erected the City of York into a distinct County of itself, and appointed two Sheriffs, in lieu of the three BaUiffs that previously formed a part of the Corporation. In this reign, Edmund Plantagenet, sumamed De Langley, the fifth son of Edward HI. and Queen PhiUppa, was created the first Duke of York. In the year 1393, a quarrel arose between Henry Bolingbroke, Earl of Hereford, and Thomas Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, who had accused each other of treason. Richard, by the advice of his CouncU, sent these two noble men into exile, the first for six years, and the other for life. This arbitrary procedure rendered the King odious to his subjects in general, and especially to the discontented Barons. In 1399, Bolinbroke, then Duke of Lancaster, finding that the rebeUious nobles were ready to dispossess Richard of the Crown, sailed from France with only three ships, attended by about sixty gentlemen and their servants, and landed at Ravenspur, or Ravenspume, in Holderness, on the 4th of July, where he was joined by Lords Willoughby, Ross, Darcy, and Beaumont, with a great number of the gentry and com monalty. At Doncaster, the Duke was joined by the Earls of Northumberland and Westmorland, two of the most powerful Barons in England, and a great number of people from aU parts of the country. The King himself during these commotions was in Ireland, and soon after he landed in England, his army deserted him, and he himself was betrayed, apprehended, and sent to * The Chief Magistrates of Edinburgh and Glasgow are styled Lord Provosts. -I- The Cap of Maintenance, whioh is stiU worn by the sword bearer on all state occa sions in the City of York, is traditionally the identical hat of King Eichard II., who, upon some festive occasion, placed it upon the head of the nearest person, who happened to be the Lord Mayor's Esquu-e. It was originaUy crimson velvet, edged with gold ; but it is now very much faded, and has only been held together by repeated re-Unings. U 146 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. the Tower, and BoUngbroke proclaimed King. Richard was soon after deposed by the two Houses of Parliament, and sent to Pontefract Castle, where he died or was murdered. Some historians assert that he was there inhumanly starved to death ; whilst others inform us that Sir Piers Exton, with eight ruffians, entered his chamber, disarmed and attempted to lay hold of him, but that he, perceiving their deadly errand, so furiously attacked them, that he slew four of them with a weapon which he had seized from the first who entered ; and that whilst combating with the rest of the murderers. Sir Piers mounted a chair behind him, and cut him down with a pole-axe.* Scrope, Archbishop of York at that time, mentions his death by hunger, but adds ut vulgariter dicitur. When preparing for his expedition to Ireland, Richard made his wiU, in which he was very particular in ordering the ceremonials of his funeral, and for which purpose he allotted £4,000.t Within ten months the unhappy monarch was deposed, murdered, and buried without pomp. Such is the mutability of human greatness. Soon after Henry Bolingbroke ascended the throne of England, under the title of Henry IV., Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, who had lost a brother and son in the battle of Shrewsbury ; Richard Scrope, Archbishop of York, whose brother Henry, the King had beheaded ; and Thomas, Lord Mowbray, Earl Marshal of England, whose father died in exUe, united with Lords Falconberge, Bardolf, Hastings, and others, in a conspiracy to depose him. Through the impatience of the Archbishop the plot was disclosed. Scrope framed several impeachments against the King, which he caused to be fixed against the doors of the churches of his own diocese, and sent them in the form of a circular into other counties, inviting the people to take up arms to reform abuses. Henry was charged by the conspirators with perjury, rebeUion, usurpation, the murder of his Sovereign (Richard IL.), irreUgion, extortion, and the Ulegal execution of many clergymen and gentlemen. The Archbishop preached a sermon to three congregations in his own Cathe dral, and raised 20,000 men suddenly to arms, who joined his standard (on which was painted the five woutids of our Saviour) at Shipton-on-the-mour, a few mUes from York. To put down this rebeUion, the King sent an army of 30,000 men into Yorkshire, under the command of the Earl of Westmor land and the Prince John. The Archbishop's forces were advantageously encamped on the Forest of Galtres, without the gates of the City, when the King's army arrived at York. Westmorland being weaker than the insurgents, did not consider it prudent to attack them ; and having affected to favour • Boothroyd's Hist. Pontefract, p. 114. + Eymer's Fcedera, tom. viii., p. 75. GENEE.\L HISTORY OF YOEKSHIRE. 147 their views, he, by means of flattery and intrigue, obtained an interview with the Prelate. The meeting took place in sight of both armies, the Archbishop being attended by the Earl Marshal, and the Generals shook hands, and reciprocated other tokens of reconciliation and friendship. The Archbishop declared that he had come not to make war but peace, and particularized the different grievances which he thought it necessary to redress for the pros perity of the Kingdom. The wily Earl, by some specious pretences and promises, induced the Archbishop to dismiss his forces to their respective homes, which was no sooner done, then the Prelate and the Earl Marshal were arrested for high treason, and their lives paid the forfeit of their precipi tancy and misplaced confidence. They were carried prisoners to Pontefract, where the King was, who ordered them to foUow the Court to the primatical Palace at Bishopthorpe. There the King commanded Chief Justice Gascoigne to pronounce on them sentence of death; but that upright and inflexible Judge refused, on the plea that the laws gave him no jurisdiction over the life of a Prelate, and that both he and the Earl had a right to be tried by their Peers.* The King, however, found a more obsequious agent in a Knight named Fulthorpe, who, at the King's command, without indictment or trial, condemned them, with Sir John Lamplough, Sir Robert Plumpton, and several others, to be beheaded. Scrope immediately exclaimed, " Thc just and true God knows that I never intended evil against the power of King Henry ; and I beg you to pray that my death may not be revenged upon him or his friends." On the 8th of June, 1405, the Archbishop suffered with great firmness in a field between York and Bishopthorpe ; his body was interred in the Cathedral, and his head was fixed on a pole and placed on the City walls, where it long remained a spectacle for vulgar eyes, and a standing jest for the enemies of religion. Being regarded in the light of a martyr, his tomb was visited by so many devotees as to attract the attention and interference of the King. The Earl Marshal's body was buried also in the Cathedral, and his head was fixed on a spike, and exhibited on the waUs of the City. Henry then issued orders from Pontefract for the seizure of aU * It is related of tjais upright Judge, that on another occasion, one of the associates of the King's eldest son (Henry, the eccentric " Prince Hal" of Shakespeare's " King Henry the Fourth"), had been arraigned before him for felony. The Prince imperiously re- quired the release of the prisoner, and when that was refused, drew his sword on the Judge. But Gascoigne cooUy ordered bi-nn into confinement in the prison of the King's Bench ; and the young Henry had the good sense to submit to the punishment. When the incident was related to his father, he is said to have exclaimed, " Happy the Monarch who possesses a Judge so resolute in the discharge of his duty, and a son so wiUing to yield to the authority of the law. 148 GENERAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. the liberties and privileges of the City of York; many of the adherents of the Archbishop were tried and executed, but a general pardon, dated at Ripon, was soon after published, and York was reinstated in the enjoyment of its former privileges. Thus did the citizens testify their affection and gratitude for their royal benefactor, Richard II., even after his death. In the second year of this reign (1401) Henry visited York, on his return from Scotland, and in that City witnessed a tournament between two English and two foreign Knights ; the foreigners proved the victors, and the King was so pleased with the combat, that he gave Sir John CornwaU, one of the combatants, his sister in marriage. In 1408, the Earl of Northumberland and Lord Bardolph, who, after the defeat of the insurrection in 1405, had retired into Scotland, raised a powerful force, and again appeared in arms against the King.- Sir Thomas Rokeby, Sheriff of Yorkshire, assembled the posse comitatus to oppose the Earl, who was desolating the country as he passed along. The Sheriff took his post at Grimbald Bridge, near Knaresborough, but the Earl seeing the advantage of his position, made no attempt to force the passage, but turned aside, and directed his course towards Wetherby, closely pursued by the Sheriff. From Wetherby the rebels turned to Tadeaster, and finally both parties drew up their forces for battle, on Bramham Moor. The Sheriff fought under the standard of St. George, and the Earl under the standard of his own arms. The fight was contested with great fury for the time it continued, and " victory feU to the Sheriff." Northumberland was slain on the field, and Bardolph was taken prisoner, but so severely wounded that he died shortly afterwards. The King soon after went to York, and finding several of the Earl's adherents in the City, he completed his revenge by the execution of many of them, and the confiscation of their estates.* The brave Rokeby was then granted the Manor of Spofforth (formerly belonging to the Earl), with all its appurte nances, during his life. The people of England generaUy were as yet only half civilized, and could bear unmoved the recurrence of sights, as well as commit actions, which ought to be esteemed most shocking to humanity. Who could bear, in our more refined times, to behold tbe mangled limbs of a dismembered human being publicly ex.posed to the gaze and insult of the multitude. Yet in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, such scenes were of common occurrence. The body of the unfortunate Earl of Northumberland, after being slain in this battle, was quartered, and one part placed on a gate in London, another Eymer, vol. viii., pp. 520, 530. GENERAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. 149 at Lincoln, a third at Berwick-upon-Tweed, and the fourth at Newcastle-upon- Tyne. The head, " fuU of silver hoary hairs," was also sent to London, and placed upon the bridge at the summit of a pole. We have just seen the head of an Archbishop treated with a similar indignity at York. But a stiU more horrible display took place during the same reign. The Earl of Huntingdon, Sir Thomas Blount, and Sir Benedict Seley, were executed for treason, and their quarters were carried to London, to bo publicly exhibited. The pro cession through the City was headed by the Earl of Rutland carrying on a pole the head of Lord Spencer, his brother-in-law, which he presented in , triumph to Henry, as a testimony of his loyalty.* The people that were capable of enduring such scenes as these with satisfaction and delight, could have made but small progress towards civilization. Barbarism too might be ashamed of the extremes to which the indulgence of private hatred and re venge was carried. To pounce on an enemy in the dark, and to cut out his tongue, or deprive him of sight, was of such common occurrence, that an Act of Parliament was passed for its suppression. Henry IV., whose usurpation was the source of innumerable woes to England ; and who preserved his Crown by shedding torrents of noble blood, died on the 19th of March, 1413, in the forty-sixth year of his age, after a reign of thirteen years. This Monarch used to say that so long as Englishmen have wealth, they are obe dient ; but when poor, they were liable to rebellion. Henry V., the hero of Agincourt, being engaged during the chief part of his reign in his wars with France, made only one visit to York, during a progress to the north, in 1421. The Queen accompanied the King, and after a short stay at York, the royal pair proceeded to visit, and perform their devotions at the venerable shrine of St. John of Beverley, which had been .ijreported to have exuded blood all the day on which the battle of Agincourt was fought, in 1415. During the stay of the King and Queen at York, news arrived of the death of the King's brother, the Duke of Clarence, who was slain in France.f In the course of this reign, commands from the King were received by the Lord Mayor, to seize and confiscate the estates and effects of divers persons, who had been tried and executed for high treason; amongst whom was Henry, Lord Scrope, of Masham, beheaded at Southampton in 1413. His head was ordered to be placed on the top of Micklegate Bar, York. The Earl of Cambridge, who had married the heiress of the House of York, and Sir Thomas Gray, were executed with Lord Scrope. The latter was Lord * Hume's England, vol. ui., p. 64. + Walsingham. 150 GENEEAL -HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. Treasurer of England, and had married Joan, Duchess Dowager of York. The execution of these rioblemen, we are told by Rapin, " was the first spark of that fire which almost consumed, in process of time, the two Houses of Lancaster and York." Henry died in France on the last day in August, 1422, and was buried near the Shrine of Edward the Confessor, in West minster Abbey. During the sanguinary dispute between these two Houses, commonly desig nated the Wars of the Roses,* this City was occasionaUy connected with the contending parties, and though not actually the seat of war, several of the battles took place in the neighbourhood. All the foreign invasions this King dom had suffered, were never so destructive as this most unnatural intestine war, between two fierce factions, fiUed with such implacable hatred towards each other, that nothing but the utter extirpation of one of the parties could , satiate this extraordinary thirst of power. During the space of thirty years, which this cruel conflict lasted, twelve regular battles were fought within this Kingdom by Englishmen only ; above eighty royal Princes feU by each other's swords ; and the ancient nobility and gentry of the Kingdom was almost annihUated. No less than 100,000 of the commons sacrificed their Uves in these unnatural struggles. Henry VL, a man better fitted for a monastic life than a regal one, was by no means competent to guide the helm of government at the turbulent period in which he reigned. The House of York seized this opportunity to assert its title to the throne, and after wading through an ocean of blood, at length obtained it. The incapacity of the King incited Richard Plantagenet, Duke' of York, to urge his claim to the Crown of England, in right of his mother,, through whom he descended from PhUippa, only daughter of Lionel, Duke of Clarence, second son of Edward HI. ; whereas Henry VI. descended from John of Ghent, or Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, third son of the same Monarch, The Duke's illustrious descent, immense possessions, and superior attain ments, gave him influence with the nobUity, and procured him formidable connections ; added to which, he stood plainly in succession before Henry. In presenting his claim to the Crown, he levied war against the King, and without material loss, slew about 5,000 of the royal forces at St Albans, on * So called from the different symbols of party which the people took. Lord Camp beU, in his Lives of the Lord Chancellors, vol. i., p. 353, says, " The claims of the rival houses being debated in the Temple Gardens, London, the red and white roses there plucked became the opposing emblems." The partisans of the House of York chose the Wliite rose as their mark of distinction ; and those of the House of Lancaster the Bed rose. GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. 161 the 22nd of May, 1454; amongst whom were the Duke of Somerset, the Earl of Northumberland, the Earl of Stafford, eldest son of the Duke of Buckingham, Lord Clifford, and many other persons of distinction. After this battle, the Duke's irresolution, and the heroism of Margaret of Anjou, Queen of Henry VL, caused a suspension of hostilities. The leaders on both sides assented to meet in London, and be reconciled. The Duke of York led the Queen in solemn procession to St. Paul's, and the chiefs of one party marched hand in hand with the chiefs of the other. It was a public demon stration of peace, with secret mutual distrust ; and an accident aroused the slumbering strife. One of the King's retinue having insulted a retainer of the Earl of W^arwick's, a partisan of the House of York, their companions fought, and both parties in every County in the Kingdom flew to arms. The battle of Bloreheath, in Staffordshire, on the 23rd of September, 1459, was won by the Lancastrians, the Duke of York being in Ireland, and the Earls of Warwick, Marche (afterwards King Edward IV.), and Salisbury, with many other noble adherents to the House of York, escaped to Calais.* Par liament soon after declared the Duke of York, and all his partisans, guilty of high treason, their estates confiscated, and they and their posterity incapable of inheriting to the fourth generation. The Lancastrian party being now triumphant, determined to extirpate the Yorkists ; and with this view, the Earl of WUtshire and Lord Scales were empowered to search out and punish those who had borne arms for the Duke of York. But these severities had a different effect from what was expected ; the discontents of the nation in creased; the fugitive Lords returned from Calais, and erected the standard of rebeUion; and the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Bishops of London, .Lincoln, Ely, and Exeter, and a large number of the Barons, declared in their favour. In the meanwhUe, the King and Queen assembled their forces at Coventry. The Earls of Marche and Warwick, with a numerous army, hastened from London into the midland counties. The King's forces, commanded by the Dukes of Somerset and Buckingham, advanced to meet them, and on the 10th of July, 1460, a decisive battle was fought on the banks of the Nene, in the vicinity of Northampton. After an obstinate contest for five hours, the King's army was completely routed, the King himself taken prisoner, and upwards of 10,000 were soldiers slain, or drowned in attempting to cross the river. The slaughter feU chiefly on the nobility and gentry, the common people being spared by order of the Earl of Warwick and Marche;* and the Duke * HaU's Chron., p. 174. HoUinshed, p. 1297. 153 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. of Buckingham, the Earl of Shrewsbury, the Lords Beaumont and Egremont, with Sir WiUiam Lucy, and several other nobles and officers of distinction, were left dead on the field. Henry was brought a prisoner into Northamp ton, and conveyed to London in a few days. The Queen, the young Prince of Wales, and the Duke of Somerset, fled into the County of Durham, and from thence to Wales, and afterwards to Scotland. After this success, the Duke of York returned from Ireland, and arrived in London soon after the meeting of the Parliament, which assembled on the 9th of October, and in which the claims of the two Houses of York and Lancaster were fully investi gated. The Duke's title being indefeasible, it was decreed that Henry should enjoy the Crown during his life, and that Richard, Duke of York, should be his successor, as the true and lawful heir of the monarchy; and in this arrangement Richard acquiesced.-]- Though the King appeared satisfied with this decision, yet the Queen, a women of masculine understanding, seeing her son, the Prince of Wales, deprived, by this settlement, of his suc cession to the throne, was not so passive. She soon returned to England, appealed to the Barons, and before the end of the year, drew together at York, an army of 20,000 men,]: among whom were the Dukes of Exeter and Somerset, the Earl of Northumberland, and the Lords Clifford, Dacre, and NevUle. The Duke of York, hearing of the Queen's designs, but not knowing that she had made such progress in raising an army, set out from London on the 2nd of December, with only about 5,000 men, giving orders to his son, the Earl of Marche, to levy forces in Wales, and then to join him ; and left the King to the care of the Duke of Norfolk and the Earl of Warwick. As the Duke of York advanced northward, he received the mortifying intelli- of the Queen's success in levying troops ; and at length being arrived in the neighbourhood of Wakefield, he was informed that she was approaching to give him battle. The Duke, resolving not to engage with numbers so greatly disproportionate, retired to his Castle at Sandal, to await the arrival of the Earl of Marche. The Queen soon appeared before the walls of Sandal Castle with the main body of her army, led by the Dukes of Somerset and Exeter, provoking her enemy to battle, sometimes by menaces, and at other times by insults and defiances, observing that it was disgraceful to a man who aspired to a crown, to suffer himself to be shut up by a women. Up to this fatal moment the Duke had always displayed great prudence in his conduct, but this last taunt of the Queen was more than he could endure. He quitted « Stowe, p. 409. -1 Cotton's Abridg. pp. 665, 667. Stowe, pp. 410, 411. { HaU, p. 182. HolHnshed, p. 1303. GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIRE. 153 the Castle, descended into the plain, and drew up his forces on the common between the fortress and Wakefield bridge, caUed Wakefield Green, on the 24th of December, 1460. The inequality of numbers was of itself sufficient to decide the victory, but the Queen having placed a body of troops in ambush, under Lord Clifford and the Earl of Wiltshire, they fell upon the rear of the Duke's army, while they were attacked by the main body in front, and in less than half an hour the Duke himself was slain, and his little army almost annihilated. The Duke's body was soon recognized amongst the slain, and his head was cut off by Margaret's orders, and placed over Mickle gate Bar, at York, with a paper crown upon it, in derision of his pretended title.* His second son, the Earl of Rutland, who had only reached his eighteenth year,]- flying from the bloody scene, was overtaken on the bridge of Wakefield, by Lord Clifford, who, in revenge for his father, who had perished at the battle of St. Albans, plunged his dagger into his breast, not withstanding his earnest entreaties to spare his life. The Duke of York, who was greatly and justly lamented by his own party, perished in the fiftieth year of his age, and left three sons, Edward, George, and Richard ; and three daughters, Anne, Elizabeth, and Margaret About 3,000 Yorkists fell in this battle; and the Earl of SaUsbury, Sir Richard Limbrick, Sir Ralph Stanley, and several other persons of distinction were taken prisoners, and immediately decapitated by martial law at Pontefract, and their heads placed on Micklegate Bar, at York.| Rapin says, the only oversight of the Duke was in shutting himself up in a Castle, instead of retreating to join his son. Edward, Earl of Marche, and heir to the late Duke of York, was at Gloucester when he received the melancholy intelligence of the fate of his father and brother; and having completed his levies, hastened to interpose an army between the Royalists and the capital. Queen Margafet, after the success at Wakefield, advanced towards London, with design to secure that , City. The Earl of Warwick, having had his army reinforced by a body of Londoners, and bringing King Henry with him, set out from London, and gave battle to the Queen's troops, on the 17th of February, 1461, on Barnards, or Barnet Heath, near St Albans. Victory was again declared for this valiant Queen, and the Yorkists lost about 2,300 men.§ Night alone saved them from utter destruction. By this victory Margaret had the satisfaction to procure the liberty of the captive King. Though she had gained two battles, and released the King, * Beauties of England and Wales. + He was bom 17th May, 1443. } HoUinshed. § HaU. X 154 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. yet it was not in her power to enter London, for her soldiers were principaUy borderers, from both sides of the Tweed, accustomed to Uve by rapine, and had been aUured to the royal standard by the promise of the plunder of the country south of the Trent, and no entreaties or prohibition could prevail on them to desist from plundering the "town of St. .Albans, and the sur rounding country. The Londoners therefore shut their gates against an army which they imagined came on purpose to plunder the country. The King and Queen then proceeded to York, and in the City or its vicinity, soon had 60,000 infantry and cavalry, commanded by the Duke of Somerset, the Earl of Northumberland, Lord Clifford, and Sir Andrew TroUop. But this success of the Lancastrian party lasted not long ; for soon after the death of the Duke of York, at the battle of Wakefield, Edward, Earl of Marche, his eldest son, now in his twentieth year, waived the title of Duke of York, and on the 5th of March, 1461, got himself proclaimed King, by the title of Edward IV., at London, and in several other places. On that day expired the reign of Henry VL, a Prince whose personal character com manded the respect of his very enemies, and whose misfortunes stUl claim the" sympathy of the reader. Edward departed from London a few days after he had been proclaimed ; and having coUected a force of nearly 50,000 men, he marched into Yorkshire, and encamped at Pontefract, resolving to meet his competitors, and to decide the contest by the law of arms. His first move was to despatch Lord Fitzwalter, with a detachment, to secure the pass at Ferrybridge, on the river Aire. The Duke of Somerset began his operations by sending Lord Clifford, with a body of his own retainers, " the flower of Craven," to dislodge the Yorkists from this post; and the attack, which took place at break of day, was so sudden and furious — the guards being all asleep, and not dreaming of an enemy so near them — that the bridge was easUy won, and the Yorkists lost their position. Lord Fitzwalter,* awakened by the noise, supposing it to arise from some quarrel amongst his own soldiers, rushed out amongst them unarmed, and was slain; and the Earl of SaUsbury at the same time shared a similar fate. Thus CUfford secured the important pass of the river. Consternation now appeared to be becoming general in the camp of the Yorkists, when, according to HoUinshed, an act of heroism of the great Earl of Warwick, who was the soul of Edward's army, restored order and confidence to his soldiers. " For when the Earle of Warwike was informed hereof, like a man desperat on his hacknie, and hasted puffing and blowing to King * Eapin caUs the commander of this detachment, Lord Fitzwalter; but it appears from Dugdale, that there was not at that time any person of the name and title. — Baronage, i., p. 333, and ii., p. 285, GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 155 Edward, saieng, ' Sir, I praie God have mercie of their soules, which in the beginning of your enterprise have lost their lives. And bicause I see no succors of the world, but in God, I remit the vengeance to him our Creator and Redeemer.' With that he alighted downe, and slue his horse with his sword, saeing, ' Let him flee that wiU ; for surelie I will tarry with him that wiU tarry with me ;' and kissed the erosse of his sword, as it were for a vow to the promise." This determination of the Earl to share the fate of the meanest soldier, inspired great confidence in the troops ; and to show the greater security, a proclamation was issued, giving to every one not weU affected to the cause, fuU liberty to retire ; but menacing the severest punish ment to those who, having remained, were discovered exhibiting any symptoms of cowardice in the ensuing battle. Rewards and honours were offered to the comrade who should slay him who was caught turning his back on the foe. Edward lost no time in sending William Neville, Lord Falconberg, with a detachment to cross the Aire at Oastleford, about four miles above Ferry bridge, with orders to attack those who guarded the lost position. Falconberg executed his orders with such secrecy and promptitude, that he suddenly attacked Lord Clifford, who was at the head of a body of horse, which was comptetely routed, and obliged to retreat in confusion towards the main body of the army. In his retreat, Clifford, unawares, fell in with another party of Yorkists, and having his helmet off, either from the effects of heat or pain, a random arrow pierced his throat, and he fell dead to the ground. The brother of the Earl of Westmorland also was slain in this skirmish. Lord Clifford, who from his bloody deeds at Wakefield, was caUed "the Butcher," was a fierce soldier; — indeed, it might with truth be said of him, " that a braver warrior never drew a sword, or one whose heart was more tempered like the steel he wore.'' The post of Ferrybridge being thus recovered, Edward passed with his whole army over the Aire, and marched, by way of Sherbum, towards Tadeaster, in quest of the enemy. The two armies confronted each other on the foUowing day. Palm Sunday, the 29th of March, 1461, on Towton Field, since called Palm Sunday Field, and im mediately prepared for that bloody and memorable battle, the issue of which was to decide — what ? " Something surely of the highest importance to the weU-being of the nation !" writes the editor of the Battle Fields of Yorkshire, " No ! only whether Henry or Edward was to be the ruler of England. And for a mere change of masters, the strength of the whole kingdom, its best and bravest sons were mustered in arms, the worst passions of human nature inflamed, and let loose in actions too horrible for recital. What madness of mankind ! what foUy ! what reckless waste of God's great gifts !" 156 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. The site of this great battle is a long brow, or ridge of high ground ex tending between the viUages of Towton and Saxton, the former viUage being situated about two miles nearly south of Tadeaster, and Saxton nearly two miles south of Towton. From this elevated ridge, now a weU cultivated and pleasant region, the prospect of the surrounding country is both extensive and beautiful. Henry's army, according to HaU, consisted of 60,000 men, commanded by the Duke of Somerset; and that of Edward amounted to 48,660, and was led by himself in person. The two wings of the Lancas trian army is supposed to have extended from Grimston, beyond Towton, to a slight hoUow in the high ground in the field called North Acres, being nearly two mUes in length. The Yorkists occupied equaUy elevated grotmd in their front ; a level space lying between the armies, and the land gradnaUy declining in the rear of both. The great Earl of Warwick, one of the bravest warriors in England, commanded the right wing of Edward's army. Lord Falconberg the left, whilst the main body was led by Edward himself. Sir John Venice and Sir John Denman, " two valiant commanders," had charge of the rear guard. The contest was most obstinate. Edward issued orders to his soldiers to give no quarter; and' it wUl suffice to observe, that these mighty hosts — both strong, both valiant, both commanded by leaders ani mated against each other by all the hatred that faction and deadly thirst for revenge could supply, maintained the deadly struggle from seven in the morning tUl dusk in the evening — ten mortal hours of carnage and slaughter. " It is morning, yet the sun rises not ! the air is gloomy aud dark, thick clouds obscure the sky. A tempest is gathering — a storm is impending in the heavens as weU as upon earth. Yet the wrath of man sleeps not. In the armies aU is active preparation for the work of death. The trumpets have blown their loud notes of defiance. The impatient neigh and tramp of the war horse is heard, mingled, with the loud and haughty voices of the commanders, exhorting their men to daring deeds, and vengeance for their kindred already iaUen. The red rose and the white, the fatal colours of the striving houses, are about to he bathed in blood. AU are eager for the combat, no slapkness is found on either side. Falconberg confronts the army of Henry with young Edward's vanguard. They are nearly within an arrow's flight of each other ; and- the archers are measuring the distance with their eyes, knowing how far their feathered shafts can carry death. Suddenly the south wind in a roaring gust, rushes down with a storm of snow; the flaky tempest drives fuU in the face of the Lancastrians; blinds them, so that they cannot see their enemies. Not unobserved by the' wily Falconberg ; who instantly gives the command to his bold yeomanry, ' Each GENERAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. 157 archer from his bow send a flight arrow to the enemies' ranks, then back retire three strides and stand.' Quick as hand can foUow thought the order is obeyed, for every mind sees advantage from the act. The bow strings twang, the whistling shafts, long and light, swifter than the tempest, rush against the distant foe ; who, ignorant of the stratagem, bend their bows and ply the strings, until the quivers are exhausted. While the Yorkists in grim quiet stand idle ; not one of their enemies' shafts has reached them. The EngUsh archer's boast, that he carried twelve enemies below his belt, is but idle breath for the red rose faction. Not so for their foes, who seeing aU their enemies' efforts vain to reach them, advance, and with loud derisive shouts, send their thick voUey like Ughtning on their foes. Struck down helplessly by hundreds with impunity ; voUey after volley is sent into their crowded ranks. Not only do the Yorkists empty their own quivers on the unresisting foe, but gather their enemies' arrows from the field, and send them winged with death unto their former owners. Impatient of the severe and deadly shower, Northumberland, Somerset, and TroUop, urge on their men to close combat, now their only hope of victory. The bow is laid aside, and spears, swords, and battle axes, decide the contest. A fearful scene of close and deadly fight ensued — no military skiU is employed, no manoeuvring of forces ; nothing but brute force and physical endurance are required. As no prisoners are to be taken on either side, each man fights as though the battle depended upon himself alone — ^the determination of all seems to be to conquer or die upon the field."* There are so many confused and conflicting accounts of this battle, that it is impossible to give a fuU and particular description of it. But aU agree that the air was darkened by the snow, which feU very thick, and was blown by the wind fuU in the faces of the Lancastrians, and that this more than balanced the advantage they derived from the superiority of their numbers. At length the forces of Henry began to give ground, at first in good order, not flying, but retreating as they fought, and making a stand now and then, so that their enemies could not be sure of the victory. The troops of Edward, encouraged by his own personal bravery, now made fresh efforts, and at last they so pressed the Lancastrians, as to obUge them to fly in disorder. Then it was that the dreadful slaughter ensued — that the flying troops were cut down without mercy. The retreating soldiers shaped their course for Tad- caster bridge in order to cross the Wharfe, but having first to pass the small river Cock, which runs through one of the most crooked of channels, aleng * Battle Fields of Yorkshire. 158 GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YORKSHIRE. the west side of the battle field, and enters the Wharfe about a mUe sputh-east of Tadeaster, so much confusion occurred that the Cock was quickly fiUed with their dead bodies, which served as a bridge for the pursued and pur suers to pass over, and the waters of the rivulet rolled a bloody current to the Wharfe. The slaughter at this point was so tremendous, that even the waters of the Wharfe were crimsoned with the blood of the victims. 28,000 of the Lancastrians were slaughtered in the battle and pursuit, and the total number that perished on that dreadful day is 37,776. A contemporary historian assures us, that besides those who perished in the waters, 38,000 men remained dead on the field.* The whole distance between the. battle field and the City of York (ten mUes) was covered with the bodies of the slain. Edward himself, in a confidential letter to his mother, while he con ceals his own loss, informs her that the heralds, employed to number the dead bodies, returned the Lancastrians alone at 28,000.t Among the slain were Henry Percy, Earl Northumberland, the Earls of Westmorland, and Shrewsbury; Lords Dacre, Beaumont, Neville, WU loughby, Roes, Scales, Grey, Fitzhugh, Molineaux, WeUes, and Henry Buckingham ; Sir Andrew TroUope, Sir John NeviUe, Sir Richard Percy, Sir John Heyton, Sir Gervase Clifton, Sir Edward Harnis, Sir John Burton, Sir David TroUop, Sir Thomas Crakenthorpe, Sir John Ormond, and many other Knights. The Dukes of Somerset and Exeter were fortunate enough to escape the carnage ; but Thomas Courtney, Earl of Devonshire, and several others were taken prisoners. This battle fixed the Crown on the brow of Edward. The snow storm of the battle day was succeeded by a frost, which congealed the blood upon the snow ; and as the wounds were all made with arrows, swords, spears, and battle axes, the effusion of blood would be greater than in a modern battle. And when a thaw came and dissolved the mass, the field presented a most horrible spectacle, the furrows and water courses literally running with blood. Thus did the foUy of the nation exhibit itself; and thus did close upon 40,000 EngUshmen sacrifice their lives in deciding the question whether an amiable and imbecile Sovereign, or a juvenile, but able, voluptuous, and sanguinary tyrant (as he afterwards proved to be), should he their master. No other object was involved in the struggle — no wrongs were redressed, no rights were obtained — ^it was not a combat for justice or freedom, for they were names and things unknown and forgotten amid the dissonant clash of arms, and the bloody vengeance of furious party spirit. The Earl of North- * Cont. Hist. Croyland, p. 553, + Fenn's Letters, vol, i., p. 217, GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE, 159 umberland reached York before he died ; Lord CUfford was tumbled into a pit along with a heap of dead bodies ; the Earl of Westmorland was buried in Saxton church; and Lord Dacre was interred in Saxton church yard, where is a " meane tomb" to his memory. In a portion of the ground which formed part of the battle field, flourishes profusely a dwarf rose, which it is reported the Yorkists, either in affection, or in triumph planted on the graves of their faUen countrymen. The author of the Battle Fields of Yorkshire teUs us, that another beautiful and fanciful notion is, that this rose wiU not grow elsewhere ; " and that Providence has caused it to spring from the blended blood of the victims of the red and white rose factions, which are typified in its white petals sUghtly tinged with red, and in the dull bloody hue of the leaves of the older wood. This pleasing piece of superstition," he adds " has caused many of those di minutive shrubs to be removed from their native soil, and carried far away to other places," Patches and clusters of these rose trees in fuU blow may be seen every year ; and it appears very difficult to eradicate the plant, for whilst the least portion of the root remains in the soU, it wUl, in due time, shoot forth a plant, and bear its delicate white flower, upon which the rustic, happy in his legendary lore, traces in its slight tinges of pink, the blood of Lancaster, On a part of the field north of the Saxton, Richard III. began to build a chapel, in which prayers might be said for the souls of the slain ; but its completion was prevented by his death at the battle of Bosworth Field. No remains of this chapel are now to be seen ; but the site is yet caUed " Chapel Garth." The battle of Towton Field is called among the country people, " the Towton Dale Fight ;" and they also say that it took place on a Sunday, whilst the people were attending mass at Saxton church. King Henry, his Queen, and their young son Edward, who had remained at York during the battle, retired into Scotland with the Dukes of Somerset and Exeter, and afterwards quitted the Kingdom. Edward entered York soon after their departure, and immediately took down from the Bar, the head of his father, and those of his friends, which had been upon the waUs of the City since the battle of Wakefield, and in return ordered Thomas Courtney, Earl of Devon, the Earl of Kyme, Sir WiUiam HiU, and Sir Thomas Fulford, adherents to Henry, to be executed, and their head's to be placed on the vacant poles over Micklegate Bar. Edward soon after repaired to London, where he was crowned on the 29th of July next following. When the Parliament assembled, both houses were eager to display their attachment to their new Sovereign. They first pronounced the reigns of the three last Kings a tyrannical usurpation, and then followed a sweeping bill of attainder, 160 GENERAL HISTORY OP YOEKSHIEE, which extended itself to almost every man who had distinguished himself in the cause of the House of Lancaster. The unfortunate Henry VL, his Queen, and son, together with the Dukes of Somerset and Exeter, the Earls of Nortli- umberland, Devon, Wiltshire, and Pembroke, and a large number of Viscounts, Knights, Priests, and Esquires, were adjudged to suffer aU the penalties of treason. In defence of such unexampled severity, it was alleged the advan tage of annihilating at once the power of the party ; and to this motive was probably added another, the necessity of providing funds from which Edward might satisfy the expectations of those to whose services he owed the present possession of the Crown, The cause of the red rose now appeared desperate ; but it was stiU supported hy the courage and industry of Margaret. To aid her cause, she visited the continent, and invited all true Knights to avenge the wrongs of an injured Monarch. The Duke of Bretagne made her a present of 12,000 crowns ; and the King of France (Louis XI.) lent her 20,000 srowns, and permitted Breze, the Seneschal of Normandy, to follow her fortunes with 2,000 men. After an absence of five months, she returned, and summoned to her standard the friends of her family on the borders ; and with this army, composed of Scotch, French, and Northumbrians, she seized the three fortresses of Bamborough, Alnwick, and Dunstanburgh. But when the Earl of Warwick arrived with 20,000 men, and inteUigence was received of the advance of Edward with an equal number, the Lancastrians separated to garrison their conquests, and the Queen, with her French auxiliaries, repaired to their ships. Thq. winds and the waves now seem to have conspired against her ; part of her fleet, with aU her treasures, were dashed against the rocks; and, Margaret and Breze arrived in a flshing boat at Berwick. Warwick, dividing the royal army into three bodies, besieged at the same time the three fortresses, which surrendered after a brave and obstinate resistance. The spirit and activity of Margaret exposed her during this winter cam paign to numerous privations and dangers. After the loss of the above-named Castles, she, accompanied by the Duke of Exeter, Breze, and two hundred exiles, sailed to Sluys, in Flanders. The Duke of Burgundy received her with every mark of outward distinction, but refused to listen to her solicita tions *n favour of her husband. He gave her a supply of money for her present expenses, and forwarded her in safety as far as the Duchy of Bar, in Lorraine, belonging to her father. There she fixed her residence, watching, with anxiety, the course of events, and consoling her sorrows with the hope of yet placing her husband or her son on the English throne. In the beginning of the above campaign, Edward, with a numerous army. GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. 161 and most of his nobility, on their march to the north against the unfortunate . Henry, visited York. Edward proceeded no further than Newcastle, having been taken Ul at that place ; and the command of the entire army was under taken .by Warwick. Henry, who for security had been conveyed to the Castle of Hardlough, in Merionethshire, commanded by David ap Jevan ap Eynion, who, in defiance of repeated acts of attainder, refused to submit to Edward ; was, in the same year, summoned to put himself at the head of a body of exUes and Scots. He was soon joined by the Duke of Somerset, Sir Ralph Percy, and their adherents. The Lancastrians encamped on the banks of the DUswater, near Hexham ; where they were soon attacked by a powerful army, commanded by NeviUe, Lord Montague, the Warden of the East Marches. Somerset, who was endeavouring to save himself by flight, was taken, beheaded the same day, and buried in the neighbouring Abbey. Two days later, the Lords Roos and Hungerford met with the same fate on the SandhiU, at Newcastle ; and many of their followers were successively executed in that town, and at York. Henry saved himseK by flight. Hol- linshed teUs us that here he showed himself an exceUent horseman, for he rode so fast, that none could overtake him. His servants and equipage feU into the enemy's hands, and among the latter was found the royal cap, caUed Bycoket, or Abacot,* with which Edward was again crowned on the 4th of May, in the same year, with great solemnity at York. Lord Montague was now created Earl of Northumberland ; and another Ust of attainders contributed to exhaust the resources of King Henry, and to add to those of Edward. The citizens of York, as well as the people of the north in general, had hitherto firmly attached themselves to the House of Lancaster; but they now seem to have espoused the cause of Edward, or he endeavoured to gain them to his favour, for before he left that City on this occasion, he, hy patent dated York, June 10th, 1464, not only reUnquishes his usual demands, or fee farm rent of the City, but assigned it for the twelve succeeding years, an annual rent of forty pounds to be paid out of his customs in the port of HuU. In this extraordinary document (which is now deposited in the Tower of London) the King expresses his great concern for the suf ferings and hardships the City had undergone during these wars, and for the poverty they had occasioned. After the flight from Hexham, Henry sought an asylum among the natives of Lancashire and Westmorland, a people sincerely devoted to his interests, and was during this time frequently concealed in the house of John MacheU, * Spelman says that this word signified a royal cap ensigned with two crowns of gold, whioh doubtless were those of England aud France, Y 162 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. at Crakenthorp, in Westmorland.* For more than a year he eluded the vigilance and researches of the government ; but he was at last betrayed by the perfidy of Cantlow, a monk of Abingdon, and taken by the servants of Sir James Harrington, of Brieiiey, in or near to Waddington Hall, in York shire. At Islington the unfortunate monarch was met by the Earl of Warwick, who ordered by proclamation that no one should show him any respect, tied his feet to the saddle stirrups as a prisoner, led him thrice round the piUory, and conducted him to the Tower. The Lancastrians having abandoned the contest after the battle near Hexham, Edward for some years kept quiet possession of the Crown. But at length he, who had driven Henry into exile, was in his turn obUged to share the same fortune himself, owing to the defection of " that setter up and puUer down of Kings," the Earl of Warwick. WhUst that Earl was in France, negociating a treaty of marriage between Edward and the French King's sister, it happened that Edward visited WydevUle, Lord Rivers, at Grafton (Northamptonshire), where he saw his daughter Elizabeth, relict of Sir John Grey, of Groby, (a Lancastrian), a women of superior beauty and accomplishments. The Lady Grey, whose husband had fallen at the second battle of St. Albans, seized the opportunity to throw herself at the feet of her Sovereign, and solicit him to reverse the attainder of her late husband, in favour of her destitute chUdren. The King pitied — nay, soon loved the beautiful suppliant, and in the end married her, after having vainly en deavoured to debauch her. But the connection proved calamitous, for the Earl of Warwick, disgusted with Edward's conduct in consequence of this alUance, espoused the cause of Henry, in which he united his two brothers, the Marquis Montecute and Lord George, one of whom was Lord President of the North, and the other Archbishop of York. Warwick was Governor of Calais ; and it was agreed that whilst he at that place endeavoured to excite the inhabitants, the two brothers should stir up a commotion in the north of England. They soon entered into a correspondence vsdth the eldest sons of the Lord Fitzhugh, and NevUle, Lord Latimer, Sir John Conyers, and others, to dethrone Edward, and restore Henry. Their attention was directed to the City of York, where was an Hospital, dedicated to St Leonard, to the Warden of which, certain Thraves of corn from every plough land, had been paid since the time of King Athelstan.f It was supposed that these thraves • Eymer, xl., p. 548. -t- A Thrave was sometimes twelve, and at other times twenty-four sheaves. The King's thraves were called Horstaffa, Herstrafia, or Herst Corn, and were payments in GENERAL HISTORY OP YOEKSHIEE. 163 had originaUy been a voluntary contribution, but which, by custom, were at length considered a debt. In the beginning of the previous reign, in conse quence of some of the farmers having withheld the thraves, it was deemed necessary to have them confirmed to the hospital by Act of ParUament. The Government officers appointed to collect these thraves having at this time (a.d. 1469) attempted to levy their value by distress, the farmers and the peasants flew to arms, chose for their leader Robert Hilyard, or Hul- dern, commonly called Robin of Redesdale, and threatened to march to the south and reform the abuses of Government. The two brothers of the Earl of Warwick are said to have improved the opportunity to increase the spirit of revolt. By misrepresenting the affair, they are said to have exasperated the people to such an extent, that 15,000 men arose in arms, and marched towards York. The citizens of York were alarmed by the approach of the insurgents i but the Earl of Northumberland, Warwick's brother, to prevent the destruction of the City, attacked and defeated them with considerable slaughter ; and executed their leader on the field of battle. This circum stance would seem to acquit one of the Nevilles from all share in the insur rection ; but it must be borne in mind that he could, if he pleased, have instantly extinguished the flame before it grew into a general conflagration ; and his inactivity subsequent to their attack upon York, together with the conduct of his two brothers, prove that, whatever were its original cause, they were wiUing at least to convert it to their own purposes. The rebels had lost their leader, but they found two others of more illus trious names in the before-mentioned sons of Lords Fitzhugh and Latimer — the one the nephew and the other the cousin-german of Warwick ; and these young men, though nominaUy at the head of the rebels, in reality obeyed the commands of Sir John Conyers, an old and experienced officer. The claim of the hospital was now forgotten, and their avowed object was to remove from the King's councils the WydeviUes (the Queen's family, of whose influence with the King the Nevilles were jealous), the authors of the taxes that impoverished, and of the calamities that oppressed the nation. At the name of Warwick, his tenants crowded from every quarter ; and in a few days the insurgents reached a very large number. On the first inteUigence of the rising in Yorkshire, Edward summoned his retainers, and fixed his head Ueu of the King's right to pasturage and forage for his horses ; and it appears that King Athelstan endowed St Leonard's Hospital with some of his thraves in this County. The same Monarch endowed the CoUegiate establishment at Beverley with four thraves of oom annuaUy from every plough in the East Eiding ; land for one plough, or a plough land, being acording to some, 130, and to others 160 acres. 164 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. quarters at the Castle of Fotheringhay. 'the King's forces and the rebels met in the neighbourhood of Banbury ; the former under the joint command of the Earls of Pembroke and Devon. The two Earls entered Banbury together, but quarreUed in an evil hour about their quarters. " The Earl of Pem broke," says HaU, " putte the Erie of Devon out of an Inne,'wherein he delighted muche to be, for the love of a damoseU that dweUed in the house ; contrary to their mutuaU agreement by them taken, whiche was, that whoso- euer obteined first a lodgyng, should not be deceiued nor remoued." The Earl of Devon, after a hearty quarrel with his brother general, retired with his division ; and the rebels, profiting by this opportunity, attacked the remaining forces. The day was for some time doubtful, but the insurgents -at length prevailed, and beheaded the Earl of Pembroke, either in the town, or its immediate neighbourhood, together with his brother. Sir Richard Herbert, and ten other gentlemen. This conflict is said to have taken place at Danesmoor, or Dunsmoor, as it is now caUed. HaU, Grafton, and HoUin shed state that above, 500 Welshmen, of which the Earl of Pembroke's forces were principaUy composed were slain in this battle ; and WiUiam of Worcester states, that at least 168 of the nobiUty and gentry of Wales feU in it. About 1,500 of the insurgents were slain on the same field, among whom were Sir Henry Latimer, Sir Roger Pigot, knt., &c. The NeviUes then proceeded in search of Edward, whom they found at Olney, in Buck inghamshire, plunged in the deepest distress at the defeat of Pembroke. Here he was taken prisoner, and placed in the custody of the Archbishop of York, who sent him to Middleham Castle. And then did England exhibit the extraordinary spectacle of two rival Kings, each confined in prison — Henry in the Tower, and Edward in Yorkshire. At the command of War wick, the insurgents returned to their homes, laden with plunder. Edward soon after escaped from Middleham, and fled into France.* The poor, passive King Henry was now brought out of the Tower, where -he had been a prisoner for nearly nine years, and amidst great rejoicings, once more reinstated in his kingly dignity. A ParUament was caUed, whioh conflrmed Henry's title to the Crown with great solemnity; Edward was pronounced an usurper, and all Acts passed by his authority repealed ; and Warwick was received among the people under the title of the King Maker. But Henry's evil fate suffered him not to enjoy his honours long, for Edward having prevailed with the Duke of Burgundy^ his brother-in-law, to lend him * There are several accounts of the escape of Edward, but that which is generaUy given is, that the Archbishop allowed him to hunt, and that one day whUe he was em ployed in that exercise, he was carried off by his friends. Hall, 203. GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 165 an aid of men and money, set sail, and after an absence of nine months, landed at Ravenspum, on the 14th of March, 1471, on the spot where Bolingbroke had previously landed to dethrone Richard II. Edward, who was attended by 2,000 men, sent some of his followers to sound the affections of the people ; but finding all the parts of the country from where he had landed to York, very much averse to his title, and perfectly satisfied with Henry's rule, he artfuUy pretended that he came but to claim his patrimonial estate of York only, and not the Crown. This dissimulation had the desired effect upon the people, who admired his moderation, and thought it the highest injustice to keep him from his Dukedom. But this politic artifice was disbelieved by Warwick, who sent strict orders to the City of York and the town of Hull that he should not be admitted. On his way towards York, he everywhere proclaimed Henry King, and styled himself only Duke of York; and he wore in his bonnet an ostrich feather, the device of Edward the Lancastrian Prince of Wales. On his near approach to the City he was met by two Aldermen, who informed him that he could not be received there, but that the citizens would oppose him to the utmost. Notwithstanding this message, however, on his coming to the gates, and repeating his former professions of loyalty to King Henry, and swearing to be true and faithful to him, he was admitted. He rode immediately to the Cathedral, and there in a most solemn manner confirmed his oath on the high altar.* This, however, was an act of base hypocrisy ; for no sooner had he performed this ceremony, than he seized the guards, assumed the regal title, raised a considerable loan in the City, and leaving it weU garrisoned, marched to London, where, on his arrival the gates were thrown open to him, and the Uke acclamations heard as Henry had enjoyed but six months before. The sequel is known to every reader of English history — the decisive battle of Barnet soon followed, in which Edward defeated Henry's forces ; the Earl of Warwick was slain, together with his brother and 10,000 of their adhe- rents.-f- This battle took place on Easter Sunday, 1471 ; and on that very • Historians remark that though the due punishment of this wilful peijury was with held from Edward himself, yet it feU iu fnU measure upon his chUdren. .^ The great Earl of Warwick, who has been styled " The King Maker," and " The Last of the Barons," was one of the most extraordinary characters of his time, and one of the bravest warriors, and most rich and powerful nobles in England. He owed his popularity as much to his hospitality as to his personal quaUties. It was of the most imbounded and profuse kind. It is said that 30,000 persons were regularly maintained in his numerous Castles, and any man might walk into his kitchen at pleasure, and take away as much beef or mutton as he could carry on his dagger. 166 GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. day Queen Margaret landed at Weymouth with a body of French auxUiaries. When she heard the fatal news of the death of the brave Warwick, and the total destruction of her party, she gave way to her grief, for the first time it is said, in a torrent of tears. She sank to the ground in despair, and as soon as she recovered her composure, hastened with her son for safety to the Abbey of Cerne. But the Lancastrian Lords, who stiU remained faithful to the cause, induced her to quit her asylum, conducted her to Bath, and raised a considerable body of troops to fight under her banner. A few days after the battle of Barnet, Edward was summoned to the field of Tewkesbury, where his good fortune again prevailed. Margaret's forces were routed, though the Lancastrians fought to the last with undaunted bravery. Immediately after the battle. Prince Edward, the son of Henry, was murdered in cold blood, by the Dukes of Clarence and Gloucester, aided by Lord Hastings and Sir Thomas Grey, in the presence of Edward, who, it is said, struck the brave youth the first blow with his gauntlet. Henry was thrown into the Tower, where he expired in a few days, or, according to some, was put to a violent death by Richard, Duke of Gloucester. Margaret was imprisoned, first in the Tower, afterwards at Windsor, and lastly at WaUingford, with a weekly allowance of five marks for the support of herself and her servants. After a captivity of five years, she was ransomed by Louis, King of France. for 50,000 crowns, and retired to Anjou, where she closed her eventful life, in the year 1482. This extraordinary woman, who sustained the cause of her amiable but truly unfortunate husband, in twelve battles, died very miserable indeed ; but with few other claims to our pity, except her courage and her distresses. Some years subsequent to the battle in Tewkesbury Park, Edward IV. visited York for the last time. He was met at a vUlage called Wentbridge, some distance from the City, by John Ferriby, then Lord Mayor, the Alder men, and commonalty on horseback, and many of the principal citizens, who conducted him with loud acclamations to the City. He departed in a few days, having first made the Corporation a present of a large sum of money. This King is said to have been the most accompUshed, and till he grew too unwieldy, the most handsome man of the age. The love of pleasure was his ruling passion ; and few Princes were more magnificent in their dress, or more licentious in their amours. His excesses at last incapacitated him for active exertion, and he entirely abandoned the charge of mUitary affairs to his brother Richard, the Duke of Gloucester .|k A sUght ailment, induced by the debaucheries in which he indulged, suddenly exhibited the most danger ous symptoms, and in a few days put a period to his existence, in the forty- GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 167 first year of his age, and twenty-third of his reign. Edward might have promised himself a long and prosperous reign, had not continued indulgence enervated his constitution, and sown the seeds of that malady which consigned him to the grave. He left two sons, Edward, in his twelfth year, who suc ceeded him, and Richard, Duke of York and Earl Marshal, in his eleventh year. Of his five daughters, who had been in their youths affianced to foreign monarchs, Elizabeth was afterwards married to King Henry VII. ; Cecily, to the Viscount Welles ; Anne, to Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk ; Cathe rine, to WilUam Courtenay, Earl of Devon ; and Bridget became a nun in the Convent of Dartford. Having the command of the army against the Scots, Richard, Duke of Gloucester, was employed in the marches at the time of his brother's death ; but the moment he heard of that event, he repaired to York, with a train of six hundred Knights and Esquires, dressed in deep mourning, and ordered a solemn requiem mass to be celebrated in the Cathedral of that City, for the repose of the late King's soul. Gloucester was a Prince of insatiable ambition, who could conceal the most bloody projects under the mask of affection and loyalty. After the funeral obsequies had been performed with royal magni ficence, he summoned the nobles and gentlemen of the County to swear aUegiance to Edward V. ; and to give them an example, was himself the first who took the oath. Having been appointed Protector of the realm, he assumed the lofty style of " Brother and Uncle of Kings, Protectour and Defensour, Great Chamberlayne, Constable, and Lord High Admiral of England." About this time the Corporation of York begged of Gloucester to move the King for a diminution of their yearly payments to the Crown, in consideration of the expenses they had incurred in the pubUc service. It is well known that Gloucester's ambition soon afterwards led him to usurp the sovereignty, and to cause his nephews (the youthful King and his brother Clarence) to be secretly murdered in the Tower, and that he was crowned at Westminster, under the title of Richard HI., together with his consort Anne, the daughter of the late Earl of Warwick, in the year 1483. In the latter end of August in the same year, the King, accompanied by his Queen, and the youthful Prince Edward, made a journey to the north, and visited York. It appears that Richard was most anxious to appear in an imposing manner before his northern subjects on this occasion, as we find his secretary writing from Nottingham to York, urging " the gude masters, the mair, recorder, and alderman, and sheriffs," to make splendid preparations for their Majesties' reception, " for there," says he, " be comen many southern lords, and men of worship, which will mark greatly your resayving thar graces ;" and in the 168 GENEEAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. same letter he assures them of the singular love which the King bore to the City of York " afore aU others." And in a letter written by Richard himself (preserved in the Harleian MSS.) from York to Piers Courties, keeper of his wardrobe, he orders him to send hither an almost incredible supply of gor geous state apparel. Most historians assert that on this occasion Richard was crowned at York by Archbishop Rotherham ; but in this they are in error, as Mr. Davies, late town-clerk of York, has shown conclusively — there being no record of such coronation, either in the archives of the Corporation, or in the official Acts of Archbishop Rotherham.* Nor is there any account of a coronation given by any contemporary chronicler. But what has led writers of a later date into error is, no doubt, the extraordinary splendour with which the cere mony of knighting the young Prince Edward was conducted here during the royal visit. On the 8th of September, the Prince was not only knighted, but he was invested with his fuU title and dignity as Prince of Wales. On this occasion, says HaU, " the whole clergy assembled in copes, richly revested, and so with a reverent ceremony went into the City in procession, after whom foUowed the King, with his crown and sceptre, appareUed in his circot robe royal, accompanied with no small number of the nobility of his realm ; after whom marched in order Queen Anne, his wife, likewise crowned, leading pn her left hand. Prince Edward, her son, having on his head a demy crown appointed for the degree of a Prince. The King was had in that triumph in such honour, and the common people of the north so rejoiced, that they extoUed and praised him far above the stars.-f Tournaments, masques, plays, and other diversions, in which all the peers in the Kingdom joined, took place on this occasion, and so luxurious was the feasting, and so prodigious were the sums of money expended, that the royal treasury was nearly exhausted, though about that period wheat sold for 2s. a quarter, barley for Is. lOd, and oats for Is. 2d. This Monarch dis tinguished the City of York by various marks of royal munificence, and the citizens showed their gratitude by a steady adherence to his interests. Soon after the accession of Richard, the Duke of Buckingham took up arms against him, and a proclamation from the King, declaring the Duke a traitor, was publicly read at York. There were named with him in the proclamation the Marquis of Dorseit, Sir William Noreys, Sir William Knevet, and some others of the Duke's adherents; and a reward of £1,000. in money was offered in * Extracts from the Municipal Eeoords of the City of York, by Eobert Davies, F.S.A., pp. 280, 388. t HaU's Chronicle, p. 380. GENERAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. 169 the proclamation, or £100. a year in land, to any person who should bring the Duke to justice ; and 1,000 marks, or 100 marks a year, for the Marquis. In 1485, Richard, and Anne his Queen, visited Scarborough, and resided for some time in the Castle. The King was very liberal to that town, not only adding to its security by a wall and bulwark, but also granting a charter, with more extensive privileges than those of his predecessors. But the Crown which Richard had so iniquitously obtained, was not pre served to him long. On the 7th of August, 1485, Henry, Earl of Richmond (the representative, in right of his mother, of the House of Lancaster), landed from Harfleur, in Normandy, with an army, at MiUbrd Haven, in South Wales, and proceeded to Lichfield, his army being augmented on the way. The forces of the King met those of the Earl near Bosworth, in Leicester shire, on the 22nd of the same month, where the battle, which determined the quarrel of the two contending Houses of York and Lancaster, was fought. Richard was slain, and his army totally routed. His Crown, which was found in the field, was immediately placed by Lord Stanley on the head of the Earl .of Richmond, and the army saluted him King. Richard's body was stripped, thrown across a horse behind a pursuivant-at-arms, and in that manner conveyed to Leicester, where it was exposed for two days to pubUc view, and then interred with little ceremony in the Church of the Grey Friars. The accession^ of Henry VII. to the throne and his subsequent marriage with the Princess Elizabeth, daughter of Edward IV., and heiress of the House of York, united the interests of the Houses of York and Lancaster, and blended the " two roses." Shakespeare writes — » " The Houses now of York aud Lancaster, Like bloody brothers fighting for a birthright, No more shall wound the parent that would part 'em. * * # * We'U twine the roses, red and white, together. And both from one Mnd stalk shall ever flourish." The Princess EUzabeth had been se^t by Richard, as a captive to Sheriff Hutton Castle, near York ; and it is said that the tyrannic Prince intended to marry her himself (though she was his niece) as a matter of policy. She was conducted publicly to London, by a numerous body of nobiUty, and her marriage with Henry was soon after solemnized. After his marriage the new monarch resolved to make a progress through the Kingdom. The na tives of the northern counties had been much devoted to Richard ; and Henry hoped, by spending some time amongst them, to attach them tp his interests. 170 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. Accordingly he set out with a numerous and splendid retinue, and visited Lincoln, Nottingham, and many other places. At Pontefract he received intelhgence that Lord Level, formerly Chamberlain to Richard, had raised a force in the neighbourhood of Ripon and Middleham, and was preparing to surprise him at his entry into York. The Duke of Bedford, at the head of a pretty numerous body of forces, prepared to meet the insurgents ; but upon the publication of an offer of pardon to all who should return to their duty, the rebel army immediately dispersed. Lovel himself escaped from the King dom, and a few of his foUowers were executed by the Earl of Northumberland. The King made his entry into York with royal magnificence. Three miles from the City he was met by the Lord Mayor and Aldermen on horseback ; at Micklegate Bar he was received with a procession of the clergy, the ac clamations of the populace, and the exhibition of pageants. He spent three weeks in the City, dispensing favours, conferring honours, and redressing grievances ; a conduct, the poUcy of which was proved by the loyalty of the country during the invasion of the foUowing year. Amongst other favours granted to the citizens of York, he diminished the yearly rent of £160., which they paid to the Crown, to the small sum of £18. 5s.* The perpetuation of the Crown in the family of Henry was now threatened by the birth of a Prince ; and this event urged the enemies of the King to one of the most extraordinary attempts recorded in history. After the death of the Duke of Clarence, brother to Edward IV., his only chUd, Edward Plantagenet, was created Earl of Warwick, the title borne by his grandfather. When Henry VII. ascended the throne, this youthful Earl had only reached his fifteenth year ; and he had been for some time a prisoner in the Castle of Sheriff Hutton, in which place he had been confined by Richard HI., who feared tha the might one day become a dangerous competitor for the Crown. One of the first acts of the new King was to transfer the young Prince, from his prison in Yorkshire, to a place of greater security — the Tower of London, he too viewing him with peculiar jealousy ; and thus was this innocent child made a victim to satisfy the ambition of others. One Richard Simons, a young priest of Oxford, landed in Dublin with a boy about fifteen years of age, and presented him to the Earl of KUdare, the Lord Deputy, and the chief of the Yorkists in Ireland, under the name of the Earl of Warwick, and implored the protection of that nobleman for a young and innocent Prinee, who, by escaping from the Tower, had avoided the fate simUar to that of his unfortunate cpusins, the sens pf Edward * Eot, Pari, vi., 390. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. 171 IV. The boy was in reality Lambert Simnel, the son of a baker at Oxford, a youth of handsome exterior, good address, and endowments of the mind above his years, who had been weU instructed in the part which he had to perform, as he could relate, with apparent accuracy, his adventures at^heriff Hutton, in the Tower, and during his escape. The, Earl of Lincoln, who had been declared by Richard IH., heir pre sumptive to the Crown, and whose hopes were blighted by the accession of Henry, was one of the first that openly espoused the cause of the impostor. The Earl embarked for Flanders to concert with his aunt, Margaret of York, Duchess of Burgundy, the means of dethroning Henry, and to solicit her support in the undertaking. The Duchess, who was sister to the two late Kings, and a mortal enemy to the House of Lancaster, immediately agreed to furnish the Earl with 2,000 Burgundian soldiers. The boy Simnel was introduced under his assumed name, to the citizens of Dublin and the nobUity of Ireland, by Lord Thomas Fitzgerald, the Chancellor, brother to the Lord Deputy. With the exception of the Butlers, the Bishops of Cashel, Clogher, Tuam, and Ossory, and the citizens of Waterford, the rest of the population, relying on the authority of the Earl of Kildare, admitted the title of the new Plantagenet without doubt or investigation ; and having been joined by the Earl of Lincoln and his Burgundians, as weU as by Lord Lovel and others, he was proclaimed in DubUn by the style of Edward VL, King of England and France, and Lord of Ireland.* The ceremony of coronation was per formed by the Bishop of Meath, with a diadem taken from a statue of the Madona ; writs were even issued in his name ; a Parliament was convoked ; and legal penalties were enacted against his principal opponents in Ireland. When the inteUigence reached Henry, he conducted the real Earl of War wick from the Tower to St Paul's, that he might be publicly recognized by the citizens; and took him with him to the Palace of Shene, where he conversed daUy with the noblemen and others who visited the Court. This prudent measure satisfied the people of England. They laughed at the imposture in Ireland, whilst the Irish maintained that theirs was the real, and that the hoy at Shene was the pretended Plantagenet. The rebels now resolved to make an attempt on England, and the Earl of Lincoln being appointed Commander in chief, landed with an army of 8,000 German and Irish troops, at the Pile of Foudray, in Lancashire. At Swart- more, near Ulverstone, the rebels were joined by the tenantry of Sir Thomas Broughton, and here the impostor was again proclaimed. The Earl expected • Bacon, 14, 15v Polydor, 563, 172 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. that the people of the north would rise and join him as he marched along, but in this he was disappointed, but not dismayed, for he resolved to march directly towards the King and give him battle. They now commenced their march'towards York, after sending a'letter addressed to the Lord Mayor and Corporation of that City, commandLag that lodgings, victuals, &c., should be provided for them. This was immediately communicated to Henry, who without delay proceeded to York, where an attempt was made to seize his person whUst he was solemnizing the festival of St. George, and it certainly would have been successful had not the Earl of Northumberland rescued him. This rebelUon was not repressed until an obstinate contest took place at the viUage of Stoke, within a few miles of Newark, on the Oth of June, 1487. During a space of three hours the victory was doubtful, but at length the rebels were entirely routed with a loss of half their number ; and the Earl of Lincoln, Sir Thomas Broughton, and most of the other leaders, were slain on the field of battle.* Several of the principal insurgents were afterwards hanged upon a gibbet at York. Simons and his pupil surrendered to one of the King's esquires. The priest was made to confess the imposture, and then thrown into prison, in which he perished ; but the pretended Edward VL obtained his pardon, was made a scullion in the royal kitchen, and after wards, in reward of his good conduct, was raised to the office of falconer. The real object of this most serio-comic proceeding must for ever remain a mystery. There is no doubt of its having been a deeply laid plot to annoy if not to dethrone the King, on the part of the adherents of the House of York. But why personate a Prince who was stiU living, and who might any day be confronted with the impostor ? The Earl of Lincoln had seen and conversed with the real Earl of Warwick at Shene ; and the Earl of Kildare and many others were doubtless in the secret. Several reasons have been assigned for these strange proceedings, but " the least improbable is," writes Dr. Lingard, " that which supposes that the framers of the plot designed, if it succeeded, to place the real Warwick on the throne ; but that, sensible how much they should endanger his life, if they were to proclaim him while he was in the Tower, they set up a counterfeit Warwick, and by this contrivance made it the interest of Henry to preserve the true one.f In the ParUament held in the fourth year of this reign, the King was granted a subsidy for carrying on the war in Bretagne. This land tax was found so heavy in this part of the Kingdom, that the people of Yorkshire and » Eapin, vol. i., pp. 668, 659. HaU, fol. 9. Bacon, 586, 587. HoUinshed, p. 1431, &c, + Hist, Eng., vol. v., p. 285, fcp. Svo. GENEEAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 173 Durham refused to pay it. The Earl of Northumberland, then Lord Lieu tenant, wrote to inform the King of the discontent, and praying ari abate ment, but that avaricious monarch would not abate a penny. The message being delivered by the Earl with too little' caution, to the inflammable popu* lace, who had assembled in a tumultuous manner around his house, at Cock Lodge, near Thirsk, to complain of the grievance; the incensed rabble, supposing him to be one of the chief advisers of that measure, immediately broke into the house, and murdered the unfortunate Earl with mariy of his servants. This sad catastrophe occurred on the feast of St. Vitalis the Martyr, April 28th, 1489 ; and. thus perished Henry Percy, the fourth Earl of Northumberland, a most exemplary nobleman, and one who enjoyed a high degree of popular favour. How truly has a witty writer said lately, that " popularity is a popular error." The murdered Earl was buried at Beverley Minster, with great pomp and ceremony. But the matter ended not here ; for being inflamed by one John a Chambre, a man of mean extraction, but who was much esteemed by the common people, they chose for their leader Sir John Egremont, and openly erected the standard of rebeUion, declaring their intention of marching against Henry himself. His Majesty hearing of this insurrection, sent Thomas, Earl of Surrey, with a competent force, to repress the rebels. The Earl defeated them, and John a Chambre, and several of his adherents, were executed at York, with great solemnity ; the former on a gaUows of extraordinary height, and the others were suspended around him. The rest of the malcontents dispersed, while Sir John Egre mont was fortunate enough to escape into Flanders, where he obtained protection from Margaret, Duchess of Burgundy. Henry, on this occasion, visited York, in order to pacify that City and County ; he appointed the Earl of Surrey, President of the North, and Sir Richard Tunstal, his Chief Com missioner, to levy the tax without any abatement. The firm conduct of the King so damped the spirits of the northern malcontents, that, in aU the future rebeUions during this reign, they approved themselves faithful and loyal subjects. One would have imagined that from the ill success of Simnel 's imposture few would be wiUing to embark in another of a similar kind ; but this was indeed a reign of plots, treasons, insurrections, impostures, and executions, though no Prince ever loved peace more than Henry did. The old Duchess of Burgundy, the fomenter and promoter of the King Simnel enterprise, procured a report to be spread that the young Duke of York, said to have been murdered in the Tower by command of Richard III., was still living. This rumour being greedily received — the English being ever ready to give 174 GENERAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. credit to absurdities — a young man about twenty years of age, of handsome features, graceful air, easy manners, courtly address, and elegant conversation, was landed at the Cove of Cork, now Queenstown, from a merchant trading vessel from Lisbon. It was soon whispered about that the mysterious stranger was, Richard Duke of York, the second son of Edward IV. The English settlers in Ireland were warmly attached to the House of York, and hence had that country been selected as the theatre upon whioh was to be performed the first act in the exploits of this pretender, as well as the opening scene of the Simnel farce. After the Earl of Desmond and the citizens of Cork had declared in his favour, he accepted an invitation from the ministers of Charles IH. to visit France, and place himself under the protection of that Monarch. For some time he was treated by Charles as the real Duke of York, and heir to the English throne; and for his greater security, a guard of honour was allotted to him. Leaving France, we find him under the protection of the Duchess of Burgundy, who received him with joy, appointed him a guard of thirty hal berdiers, and gave him the surname of " The White Rose of England." Her conduct alarmed Henry, and revived the hopes of his enemies. Could the aunt, it was asked, be deceived as to the identity of her nephew, or could she countenance an impostor? Henry spared neither pains nor expense to unravel the mystery; and the Yorkists were equally active. The royal emissaries reported that the impostor was the son of a converted Jew, who had been over to England in the reign of Edward IV. ; that he was a native of the City of Tournay, and that his real name was Perkin Warbeck. Sir Robert CUfford, the secret agent of the Yorkists, had seen " the white rose," and had heard from himself, and from his aunt, the history of his adventures ; and he assured his employers in England, that the claim of the new Duke of York was indisputable. The spies of Henry discovered the English partisans of the pretender, and in one day Lord Fitzwalter, Sir Simon Montford, Sir Thomas Thwaites, several clergymen, and others, were apprehended on the change of high treason. Their correspondence with the friends of the pre tender in Flanders was considered a sufficient proof of their guilt ; and all received judgment of -death. Some of them suffered immediately, and the rest were pardoned. Sir WiUiam Stanley too, Henry's Lord Chamberlain, was convicted of the same crime, and decapitated. Three years had now elapsed since the pretender first set forth his claim ; and yet he had never made any attempt to establish it by legal proof, or to enforce it by an appeal to the sword. At length he sailed from the coast of Flanders, with a few hundreds of adventurers attached to his fortunes, and GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 175 made an unsuccessful descent in the neighbourhood of Deal. The inhabi tants attacked the invaders, made one hundred and sixty nine prisoners, and drove the remainder into their boats. All the captives were hanged, by order of Henry. Warbeck then sailed to Ireland, and with the aid of the Earl of Desmond, laid siege to Waterford. Here again he failed, and then returned to Flanders. Soon after he sailed to Cork, but the natives of that " beautiful city" refused to venture their Uves in his service. From Cork he passed to Scotland, and was received with great cordiality by James IV., the 'King of that country, who was seduced to believe the story of his birth ; and who carried his confidence so far as to give him in marriage his near relation. Lady Catherine Gordon, daughter of the Earl of Huntley. But not content with these instances of favour, James resolved to attempt settUng him on the throne of England. Warbeck had mustered under his standard 1,400 men, outlaws from all nations ; to these James added all the forces it was in his power to raise ; and the combined army crossed the border. They were preceded by a proclamation, in which the pretender was styled " Richard, by the grace of God, King of England and France, Lord of Ireland, and Prince of Wales." But the proclamation had no efi'ect. It was expected that the country would rise, when caUed upon ; but the adventurer's preten sions were now become stale' — the novelty of the thing had worn away — and not a sword was unsheathed in favour of the " white rose." The Scots, to re pay themselves, pUlaged the country without mercy, and returned, laden with spoils, to their homes. We soon after find this restless adventurer, under the title of Richard IV., at the head of 6,000 of the men of CornwaU, before the gates of Exeter, where failure marked his progress. At Taunton he perceived the approach of the royal army, commanded by the Lord Chamber lain and Lord Brooke ; and at midnight, leaving his foUowers to their fate, he rode away with a guard of sixty men to the Sanctuary of BeauUeu, in Hampshire. In the morning the insurgents submitted to the royal mercy, and the ringleaders were hanged. Upon receiving a promise that his life should be spared, Warbeck surrendered himself to the King, who ordered him to be confined within the precincts of the Palace. Having grown weary of confinement in the Palace, he, at the end of six months, attempted to escape, but failed ; and for this he was placed in the stocks at Westminster and Cheapside, and then committed to the Tower. The real Earl of Warwick, and the pretended Duke of York, were now fellow- prisoners in the Tower. They soon contracted a mutual friendship for each other. Warbeck and he entered into a conspiracy, with four of the warders, to murder the Governor, effect their escape, and make another attempt to 176 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE, seize the Crown. This plot being discovered, they were both brought to trial, condemned, and executed. Whilst Warbeck and Warwick were plotting in the Tower, a person of the name of Ralph Wulford attempted to personate the young Prince, but he was soon apprehended, and he paid with his life the forfeit of his temerity. The Princess Margaret, Henry's eldest daughter, a beautiful girl in her eighteenth year, when on a journey into Scotland, in order to. consummate her marriage with James IV., visited York, on the 14th July, 1503, ac companied by a train of five hundred lords and ladies. On this occasion the citizens testified their loyalty to Henry by paying her the most marked attention. The Sheriff attended by about one hundred lords, ladies, and gentlemen, on horseback, met her at Tadeaster Bridge, and the cavalcade proceeded tUl it arrived within a mUe of York. " So great were the prepara tions within the walls of the northern metropohs," writes Miss Strickland, in her lAves of tlie Queens of England, " that she found it necessary to change her dress ; for which purpose she retired to her litter, where, assisted by her tirewomen, she performed her toilette by the wayside. AU her ladies and maidens likewise refreshed their habiUments, and when they considered themselves sufficiently brightened and cleansed from the dust and stains of travel, York gates were opened, and a grand procession of civU magnates and gallant Yorkshire cavaUers poured forth to meet and welcome the royal train. The citizens were headed by their Lord Mayor and the chivalry of the Earl of Northumberland. In fair order did Queen Margaret enter York, her minstrels singing, her trumpets and sackbuts playing, and the high woods resounding, banners and bandroles waving ; coats of arms unroUed to the Ught of the sun setting ; rich maces in hand, and brave horsemen curvetting and bounding. York was crowded with the gentry from the East and West Ridings. My Lord of Northumberland and my Lord Mayor did their best to make Queen Margaret's reception expensive and splendid, but as they did not produce any striking variation in their pageantry, it need not be dwelt upon. The young Queen was received in the Palace of the Archbishop of York, after her fatiguing day was done. In the morning, that prelate led her to high mass in York Minster. Margaret was gloriously attired in cloth of gold on this occasion, her gown being belted with a precious girdle studded with coloured gems ; the ends of her belt hung down to the ground ; her necklace was very splendid, fuU of orient stones. As she went from the Palace to the Minster, the Countess of Surrey bore her train, and after them foUowed her ladies, all very richly attired, in goodly gowns tied with great gold chains or -girdle belts, with the ends hanging dovm to the earth. When GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 177 mass was done. Queen Margaret gave reception in the great ante-room of the Archbishop's Palace, holding a drawing-room, as it would be called in modem phraseology. Here, my lady, the Countess of Northumberland was pre sented to her, being weU accompanied with knights and gentlemen. The young Queen of Scotland kissed her for the welcoming she gave her." Margaret remained at York from Saturday till Monday, and was presented with a silver cup ornamented with gold. Upon taking leave of the Corpora tion, when she reached CUfton, on her journey northward, she made the following courteous but laconic speech ; " My Lord Mayor, your brethren, and aU the whole City of York, I shall evermore endeavour to love you, and this City, as long as life itself." York was the second of the ten staple towns which Henry VII. estab lished in England, with a view to the promotion of trade. These ten towns were endowed with pecuUar commercial privileges, as marts where foreigners might find the commodities of the country in abundance. During the re mainder of the reign of this Monarch the annals of York contain no important transaction. In 1509, Henry VUE., then only sixteen years of age, succeeded to the throne on the death of his father. In the course of this year, or, according to some authorities, in 1507, Hugo Bois, or Goes, the son of an ingenious printer at Antwerp, established a printing press at York ; being shortly after the invention of printing, and contemporaneous with Wynkyn de Worde. According to some, Bois had his press in the Minster Yard, in or near St. William's CoUege, on the same site upon which the royal printing presses were erected in 1642, whUst Charles I. was at York ; but other accounts state that Bois's press stood in Stonegate, in the house formerly known as Mulberry or Mowbray HaU. WiUiam Oaxton, a London merchant, who had attached himself to the service of Margaret, Countess of Richmond, mother of King Henry VIL, and had travelled much on the continent of Europe, first introduced the art of printing into England, about the year 1474.* By the desire of his Ulustrious patroness, Oaxton contrived to make himself acquainted with the mechanism of the art in Germany; from which country he returned to England, pro- vided with types, presses, &c., whioh he erected in one pf the chapels within Westminster Abbey (encouraged by Thomas MilUng, the then Abbot), sup posed by some to be the almonry, and there he produced the first specimen of EngUsh typography. The " Game and Play of Chesse" was printed in ¦* Caxton died in 1491, and was buried in St. Margaret's Church, Westminster. 2 A 178 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. that year, and was the first book ever printed in these Kingdoms. In a few years after, the " mystery of printing," as it was then called, was introduced into Oxford and St. Albans. The first specimen of Oxford workmanship is dated 1478, and the first book printed at St. Albans is dated 1480. York, as we have seen, procured itself the advantage of the press in 1507 or 1509 ; Cambridge in 1521 ; Tavistock in 1525 ; and Canterbury and other towns, at periods considerably later. The press made very Uttle progress in England during the latter end of the fifteenth and nearly the whole of the sixteenth century. The first complete version of the Bible was published on the 4th of October, 1535. York.and the Ainsty contributed five hundred men to the army that fought against the Soots, under the Earl of Surrey, and gained the memorable victory of Flodden Field, on the 9th of September, 1513. In this battle James IV., King of Scotland, Henry's brother-in-law, was slain. His body was conveyed to York, and there exposed to pubUc view, tUl Henry's return from France, when it was presented to him at Richmond, in Surrey. In 1631 the City of York obtained an Act of Parliament "for amending the rivers Ouse and Humber, and for pulling down and avoiding of fish- garths, piles, stakes, and other things set in the said rivers." Previous to this year there were fish-garths in these rivers, which were so injurious to the trade of York, by preventing the free passage of ships to that City, that the Lord Mayor and commonalty petitioned Parliament for this Act, for the removal of the obstructions. In the 24th of this reign (1533), the price of provisions was fixed, as fol lows : — beef and pork, at a halfpenny a pound ; veal and mutton, at a half penny and half a farthing; hens, a penny each; geese, two-pence each; butter, sixpence a stone ; and cheese, eighteen-penoe a stone ; with all other articles in proportion. The shilling of that day was worth about five times that sum in our present money. The suppression of the Monasteries, which commenced in 1535, excited a great sensation in Yorkshire, and all throughout the northern Counties. Before this period, the King was a disputant on tenets of religion, with Martin Luther, having written a book of controversy, "still extant, entitled " A Defence of the Seven Sacraments, by King Henry VIII. ;'' for the merit of which the Pope and Sacred College granted him the distinguished title of King Defender qf the Faith, — " Rex Fidei Defensor." Thus it is clear that Henry was originaUy a strenuous advocate of the Catholic Church ; but the Pope's refusal to grant him a divorce from his lawful wife, Catherine, excited his ire to such a pitch, that he resolved to try whether Acts of Parliament GENEEAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. 179 did not possess the talismanic power of deputing or constituting himself head of the church, instead of the Pope. Accordingly, in 15*32, an Act was passed for extinguishing the payment of Annates, or first-fruits to the See of Rome, and was followed by another statute, prohibiting the Pope from interfering in the nomination of Bishops; and the Parliament, whioh met in 1534, ratified and established the King's claim of Supreme Head qf the Church. Acts were also passed for taking away the benefit of Sanctuary ; for giving the first-fruits to the King, and for making a provision for suffragan Bishops. Having now proved the flexibility of his Parliament, and being either aware that his revenues were not adequate to gratify his insatiable propensity for diversions, feasting, gaming, and pubUc shows ; or, prompted by inordinate avarice, he next turned his thoughts to the religious and charitable institu tions of the country, and first obtained an Act for the suppression of the smaUer Monasteries.* He afterwards ordered Articles of Alterations in Re ligious Doctrines to be exhibited, and they were signed by eighteen Bishops, forty Abbots and Priors, seven Deans, seventeen Proctors, and one Master of a CoUege. Most of the larger Monasteries were dissolved in 1540, and sur rendered to the King; and thus the foundations, made by the piety and wisdom of our forefathers, for the benefit of religion, learning, and the relief of the poor, lost the stabUity of their settlements, and were laid at the mercy of a cruel, dissolute, and licentious Monarch ; the " only Prince in modem times who carried judicial murder into his bed, and imbrued his hands in the blood of those he caressed. "-f- No one surely can suppose that in Henry's newly-acquired taste for sacrilege and church plunder, he had any regard for religion or God's honour;! for, as Bishop Fisher truly said, "it is not so * Bishop Tanner, Notit., p. 23, says, that the Aot for the suppression of the lesser Monasteries was passed about March, 1535. Spelman, in his History of Sacrilege, p. 183, tells us, that the biU stuck long in the House of Commons, and would not pass, till the King sent for the members of that house, and told them he would have the biU pass, or have some of their heads. + Mo'Ihtosh's History of England. { " Men gave their lands, as they declared in the deed of gift, ' for the glory of God,' and they charged what they so gave with the maintenance of masses ; if reformation had been desired, this condition would have been repealed; but this would uot have gorged that fatal covetousness, whioh, by confiscating the endowments, ran headlong into the guilt of sacrUege. But again, was all the confiscated property of the nature above des cribed? Our own experience can answer. Were the tithes (now impropriated) of inuch more than half the parishes of England, given to superstitious uses ? Were the glebe lands, and glebe houses, of our poor vicar^es (now in the hands of laymen), super stitious and unholy things ? This part at least of the spoU was taken strictly from the clergy." — Wilberforce. 180 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. much the good as the goods of the church, that he looked after.'' And although the confiscation was a deserved vengeance, if the gifts of the pious founders were being abused, yet it " was an increase of guilt in the King and Parliament, who by not preventing the abuse, had made themselves partakers in the sin." In the reign of Henry V., York contained, besides the Cathedral, forty-one parish churches, seventeen chapels, sixteen hospitals, and nine monasteries, or convents, consequently the suppression of the reUgious houses inflicted a terrible blow on the grandeur of the City. "It cannot be denied," observes Drake, " that after the dissolution of the Monasteries by Kirig Henry VIIL, with the Chantries, Chapels, Hospitals, and other houses, for the sustenance of the poor, that this famous, and then flourishing City received a terrible shock, by the tearing Up of those foundations. No sooner was this mandate given here, but down fell the Monasteries, the Hospitals, Chapels, and Priories, in this City, and with them, for company, I suppose, eighteen parish churches, the materials and revenues of aU being converted to secular uses. Lord Herbert, in his History of King Henry VIH., tells us that many of the visitors appointed to examine into the state of the monasteries, petitioned the King that some few of them might be suffered to remain for the benefit of the country at large ; the poor receiving from them great relief, and the rich good education for their children ; and Bishop Latimer also earnestly entreated that, at least, two or three might be left standing in every County, to be nurseries for charity, learning, preaching, study, and prayer. But Cromwell, by the King's directions, invaded aU, nor could he be prevailed upon to leave one of them standing. Notwithstanding the immense riches whioh Henry had obtained from the suppressed Abbeys, Friaries, Nunneries, and Monasteries, and which he pretended was not to be converted to private uses, but to fill his exchequer and reUeve his subjects, who were led to believe that they should never hereafter be charged with subsidies, fifteenths, loans, or other aids ; yet his Ulgotten wealth was very soon lavished away, and the exchequer being reduced, he demanded subsidies both of the clergy and laity. Accordingly, the Parliament, which sat in November, 1545,* granted him a subsidy of two shUlings in the pound, and the convocation of the Province of Canterbury, granted him a continu ation of a former subsidy of six shiUings in the pound. Besides there were yet in the Kingdom several CoUeges, Free Chapels, Chantries, Hospitals, and Fraternities ; and as Henry had demanded a subsidy, this obsequious • Burnet. GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. I8l ParUamerit, apprehensive that further demands might be made, very liberaUy and generously gave them aU to him ; with aU their sites, buildings, riches, lands, possessions, &c., amounting to many thousand pounds a year. After his compliant ParUament had grarited all this, Henry came to the House and thariked his " faithful Commons " for what they had done, telUng them " that never King was more blessed than he was ; and at the same time he assured them that he should take proper care for the supplying of the ministers, for encouraging learning, and relieving the poor."* The Uni versities, however, it seems, rather suspected him ; for they now made ap plication to him, that they might not be included in the Act of Dissolution of Colleges and Fraternities ; and Dr. Cox, tutor to the Prince of Wales, wrote to secretary Paget, requesting him to represent to the King the great want of schools, preachers, and houses for orphans; "that there vvere ravenous wolves about his Majesty, which would devour Universities, Cathe drals, and Chantries,t and a thousand times as much, so that posterity would wonder at such things ; he therefore desired that the Universities, at least, might be secured from their spoilsl"]: These solicitations produced the desired effect ; for Henry, by confirming the ancient rights of the Uni versities, dispeUed their fears, and assured them that their revenues should remain untouched. By way of atonement for the havoc made in the reli gious houses, in conjunction with other motiv'ee, partaking more of policy than retribution, Heriry erected six Bishop's Sees, on the ruin of as many of the most opulent monasteries, and appropriated a part of the revenues of those Monasteries to the maintenance of the new prelates. But even these were at first so scantUy endowed, that the new prelates for some years en joyed little more than a nominal income.§ * Burnet. ¦^ It was the custom, in ancient times, for Lords of Manors, and persons of wealth and importance, to buUd small chapels or side aisles to their parish churches, dedicated in honour of some favourite saint, and these were endowed with lands suflScient for the maintenance of one or more chanters or priests, who were to sing masses at the altar erected therein, for the soul of the founder and those of his ancestors and posterity ; these chantry chapels served also as a burial place for the founder and his famUy, There were frequentiy many chantries in one church, and they were generally separated from the rest of the church by a screen. Fuller says, " Chantries were Adjectives, not able to stand by themselves, and therefore united, for their better support, to some pa rochial, CoUegiate, or cathedral church." Before the Eeformation, much of the property of the Universities was held on the condition of the performance of chantiy servioes. Free Chapels, though endowed for the same use and service as chantries, were inde pendent of any church or other ecclesiasfical edifice. " They had more room for priests," says Fuller, " and more priests for that room." + Burnet § Journals, 113, Strype 1, Eeo;, 375. Eymer, xiv., 709, 715, &c. 182 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. To soften the odium of these measures, much has been said of the immo rality practised, or supposed to be practised, within the monasteries. " It is not in human nature," writes Dr. Lingard, " that in numerous societies of men, all should be equally virtuous. The monks of different descriptions amounted to many thousands ; and in such a multitude there must have existed individuals, whose conduct was a disgrace to their profession. But when this has been conceded on the one hand, it ought to be admitted on the other, that the charges against them are entitled to very little credit. They were ex parte statements, to which the accused had no opportunity of re plying, and were made to silence enquiry, and sanctify injustice. Of the commissioners, some were not very immaculate characters themselves ; all were stimulated to invent and exaggerate, both by the known rapacity of the King, and by their own prospects of personal interest."* The suppression of the religious institutions, and the appropriation of the property of the church, and the patrimony of the poor to " the King's Majesty's use ;" the turning out of so many priests, monks, nuns, sick and aged people, to starve, or beg their bread, so exasperated the people of the northern coun ties, who retained a strong attachment to the ancient doctrines, that in 1536 a large multitude rose in open rebellion, and demanded the redress of these grievances ; that is, the re-establishment of the Catholic religion, and the monastic institutions.} The first who appeared in arms were the men of Lincolnshire, under the guidance of Dr. Mackerel, Prior of Burlings, who had assumed the name of Captain Cobler ; and so formidable was their force, that the Duke of Suffolk, the royal commander, deemed it more prudent to negociate than to fight. In tbe five other counties, the insurrection had assumed a more formidable appearance. From the borders of Scotland to • Hist. Eng. vol. vi. p. 326, fc. Svo. t The annual rents of the 380 lesser estabUshments, which were dissolved in 1535, amounted to ^633,000. ; and the goods, lands, plate, &c., belonging to these houses, were valued at ^£100,000., but are said to have been worth three times that sum. By the suppression of the greater monasteries, iu 1530, the King gained a revenue of more than ^100,000. a year, besides large sums in plate and jewels. The annual revenue of aU the suppressed houses amounted to i£142,914. 13s. 9Jd., about one-and-twentieth part of the whole rental of the Kingdom, if Hume be correct in taking that rental at three miUions, as the rents were then valued. Burnet says that they were at least ten times as much in real value ; for the Abbots and Priors having some presentiment of the im pending storm, had fixed the yearly rents very low, and raised the fines veiy high, that they might have something to subsist on when they should be expelled their houses. Besides the rents of the lands belonging_to the monasteries, Henry received a consi derable sum arising from the church ornaments, plate, goods, lead, beUs, and other materials, which he thought it not proper to have valued at all. GENERAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. 183 the Humber, the inhabitants had generally bound themselves by oath to stand by each other. Nor was the insurrection long confined to the common people. Rapin and others teU us that the nobility and gentry, the former patrons of the dis solved houses, had joined the standard of revolt.* The Archbishop of York, the Lords NevUle, D'Arcy, Lumley, and Latimer; Sir Robert Constable, Sir John Bulmer, Sir Stephen Hamilton, Sir Thomas Percy, brother of the Earl of Northumberland, and many other Knights and gentlemen of the north, were amongst the insurgents. The real leaders seem not to have been known, but the rebels, amounting in number to upwards of 40,000 men, were under the nominal command of Richard Pr Robert Aske, of Aughton, a gentleman of considerable fortune and influence in Yorkshire ; and the enter prise was quaintly termed the PUgrimage of Grace. The oath taken by the " PUgrims" was, "that they should enter into this pilgrimage for the love which they bore to Almighty God, his faith, the holy church, and the main tenance thereof; the preservation of the King's person and issue; the purifying of the nobility, and expulsion of viUein blood and evU counseUors from his grace and privy council ; not for any private profit, nor to do dis pleasure to any private person, nor to slay or murder through envy, but to put away all fears, and to take afore them the Cross of Christ, his faith, and the restitution of the church, and the suppression of heretics and their opinions." On their banners were painted the Crucifixion of our Saviour, and the chalice and host, the emblems of their belief, A number of ecclesi astics marched at the head of the army, in the habits of their order, carrying crosses in their hands, and wearing on their sleeves an emblem of the five wounds of Christ, with the name of Jesus wrought in the middle. Wherever the pilgrims appeared, the ejected monks were placed in their monasteries, and the inhabitants were compeUed to take the oath, and to join the army. Henry immediately issued commissions to several Lords to levy troops, but from the backwardness of the people, the army was not sufficiently strong to oppose the insurgents. Aske, in the meantime, did not remain inactive. He divided his army into separate divisions — one of which took possession of Pontefract Castle, whilst another division made themselves master of the City of York ; and a third, under the command of one HaUam, took Hull by surprise. The strong Castles of Skipton and Scarborough were preserved by the courage and loyalty of the garrisons. The King issued a proclamation, in which he told the rebels that they ought no more to pretend to give judg- • Eapin, vol. i. p. 815. 184 GENERAL HISTORY OP YOEKSHIEE. ment with regard to government, than a blind man with regard to colours ; — " And we," he added, " with our whole council, think it right strange that ye, who are but brutes, and inexpert folks, do take upon you to appoint us, who be meet or not for our council." Aske, at the head of 30,000 men, then hastened to obtain possession of Doncaster. The Earl of Shrewsbury, though without any commission, armed his tenantry, and threw himself into the town ; he was soon joined by the Duke of Norfolk, the King's lieutenant, with a small army of 5,000 men, and a battery of cannon was erected to protect the bridge. The Duke en camped near Doncaster, and entered into a negotiation with the rebels, who had taken their stand at Scawsby Leas. On the 20th of October, 1636, the Duke sent a herald with a proclamation to the insurgents; Aske, sitting in state, with the Archbishop of York on the one hand, and Lord D'Arcy on the other, gave the herald an audience, but on hearing the contents of the pro clamation, he refused to allow it to be published to the army. Henry, who was now greatly alarmed, issued a proclamation, commanding aU the nobility to meet him at Northampton. Meanwhile the insurgents advanced towards the detachment commanded by the Duke of Norfolk, which was stationed to defend the bridge which formed the pass between the two armies.* A most fortunate circumstance for the King occurred at this juncture, the river Don, which was fordable in several places, was now so swoUen by a heavy rain that it was impossible to effect a passage over it ; had it been otherwise, the royal army must have been defeated ; though, under the circumstances, it is impossible to say what might have been the consequence, for the Duke, though entrusted with the command of the forces of the King, was averse to the alterations made in reUgion, and it could not, therefore, be agreeable to him to oppose men who were defending a cause which he secretly approved. During these protracted negociations, the King was enabled to strengthen his army, which so alarmed many of the rebels, that they, suspecting they were betrayed by their leaders, withdrew themselves from the cause. Wearied at length by the delays in the negociation, the main body of the rebels, which stUl remained in their camp, resolved to renew hostilities, and to attack the royal army at Doncaster; but this, however was prevented by another violent rain, which rendered the river impassable. Henry now sent a general pardon for the insurgents who should lay down their arms, excepting only ten persons, six of whom were named, and four not named. This offer was rejected, and after many delays and tedious • Eapin, vol. i., p. 815. Hall, 239, Stowe, 574. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 185 negociations, the King proposed that the rebels should send deputies to treat for peace. This proposal was accepted, and at a conference held at Don caster, on the Oth of December, the deputies made the foUowing demands : — 1st. — That a general pardon should be granted without any exception. 2nd. — That a Parliament should be held at York. 3rd. — That a Court of Justice should be erected there, so that the inhabi tants of the northern counties should not be brought to London on any lawsuit. 4th. — That some Acts of the late Parliament, which were too grievous to the people, should be repealed. 5th. — That the Princess Mary should be declared legitimate. 6th. — That the Papal authority should be re-established on its former footing. 7th. — That the suppressed monasteries should be restored to their former state. 8th. — That the Lutherans, and aU innovators in religion, should be severely punished. 9th.— That Thomas, Lord CromweU; Audley, the Lord Chancellor; and Rich, the Attorney General; should be removed from the Council, and excluded from the next Parliament. ' 10th.— That Lee and Leighton, visitors of the monasteries, should be imprisoned, and brought to account for their briberies and extortions.* This conference broke up without producing any effect, but the Duke of Norfolk advised the King to comply with, at least, some of their demands. Henry therefore promised that their grievances should be patiently discussed at the next Parliament, which, he agreed, was to be held at York ; and he also offered a general pardon to the rebels. Aske and the %ther leaders accepted the King's offer, and the treaty being concluded, the insurgents immediately dispersed. But Henry, freed from his apprehensions, neglected to redeem his promise, and in less than two months the " Pilgrims" were again in arms ; but the Duke of Norfolk, with a more numerous force over powered them, after they had failed in two successive attempts to surprise Hull and Carlisle. Lord D'Arcey, Robert Aske, and many other leaders were taken, and executed. The Abbots of Fountains, Jervaux, and Rivaulx, the Prior of BridUngton, and others, were executed at Tyburn ; Sir Robert Constable was hanged in chains, over Beverley gate, at Hull; Aske was suspended from a tower, probably Clifford's, at York; D'Arcey was be- * Eapin, vol, i., page 816. 2 B 188 GENEEAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. sometime Lord High ChanceUor of England, and a great champion of the rights of the church, had been murdered in his own Cathedral by four gentle men in the King's service, who mistook for a command a rash expression of their master.* The prelate was afterwards canonized by the Pope, and the anniversary of his martyrdom Was consecrated to God in honour of the saint. It was now suggested to Henry VIIL, that so long as the name of St. Thomas of Canterbury should remain in the calendar, men would be stimulated by his example to brave the ecclesiastical authority of their Sovereign. The King's attorney was therefore instructed to exhibit an information against " Thomas Becket, sometime Archbishop of Canterbury ;" and that individual was formaUy cited to appear in court, and answer to the charge. The saint having neglected to quit the tomb, in which he had reposed for more than three centuries and a half, would have been decided against for default had not the King, by his special grace, assigned him a counsel. The court sat at Westminster ; the AtiBrney-General and the advocate of the accused were heard ; and sentence was finally pronounced that Becket had been guUty of rebeUion, contumacy, and treason ; that his bones should be pubHcly burnt, and that the offerings which had been made at his shrine should be forfeited to the Crown.-t' The sentence was executed in due form ; and the gold, sUver, and jewels, the spoils obtained by the demolition of the shrine, were Conveyed in two ponderous coffers to the royal treasury. A proclamation was after wards published, stating that forasmuch as it now clearly appeared that Thomas Becket had been killed in a riot excited by his own obstinacy, and had been canonized by the Bishop of Rome, the King's Majesty thought it expedient to declare that he Was no saint, but rather a rebel and traitor to his Prince, and therefore commanded that he should not be esteemed or called a saint ; that all images and pictures of him should be destroyed ; the fes tivals in his honour be abolished, and his name and remembrance be erased out of all books, under pain of imprisonment.| Henry made his own judg ment the standard of orthodoxy ; and he executed the laws against those who "¦ The Archbishop having frequently given offence to the King, by opposing his designs upon the rights and property of the church, the King, one day in a transport of fuiy, cried out, and repeated several times, that " he cursed aU those whom he had honoured with his friendship, and enriched by his bounty, seeing none of them had the courage to rid him of one Bishop, who gave him more trouble than all the rest of his subjects." Hearing these words. Sir WilUam Tracy, Sir Hugh Morville, Sir Eichard Briton, and Sir Eeginald Fitz-Orson, " who," sayS Butler, " had Uo other religion than to flatter their Prince," conspired privately to murder the Archbishop, and perpetrated the saoril-egiottS aot on the 29th of December, 1170. -f WUk. Con., iii., 835-6. } Ibid, 841. GENERAL HISTORY OP YORKSHIRE. 189 differed from him, with equal rigour, both before and after his quarrel with the Court of Rome. Before that event the teachers of LoUardism excited his ire ; and after it he was not less eager to Ught the faggot for the punish ment of heresy. A number of German Anabaptists landed in England in 1535 ; they were instantly apprehended, and fourteen of them, who refused to recant, were condemned to the flames. In 1638 more missionaries of the same sect followed, and a similar fate was awarded to them. Henry's own relations and friends were sacrificed on the plea of high treason or heresy ; and even Cromwell, his Vicar-General and factotum, who, by cunning and servility, had raised himself from the shop of a fuller to the Earldom of Essex, and the highest seat in the House of Lords, died on the scaffold. In 1541 the King published six articles of belief, in the form of an Act of Parliament. The 1st article declared that in the Blessed Eucharist is reaUy present the natural body of Christ, under the forms and without the substance of bread and wine. 2nd. That communion uuder i)oth kinds is not necessary ad salutem. 3rd. That priests may not marry by the law of God. 4th. That vows of chastity are to be observed. 5th. That private masses ought to be retained. And 6th. That the use of auricular confession is expedient and necessary. This statute declares that if any person preach, write, or dispute against the first article, he shall not be aUowed to abjure, but shaU suffer death as a heretic ; or if he preach, write, or speak openly against any of the other five, he shall incur the usual penalties of felony. Thus it appears that Henry was still opposed to the Lutheran doctrines of Justification by Faith alone, &o. By law the Catholic and Protestant were now placed on an equal footing in respect to capital punishment. If to admit the papal supremacy was treason, to reject the papal creed was heresy. The one could be expiated only by the halter and the knife ; the other led the offender to the stake and the faggot. On one occasion Powel, Abel, and Featherstone, who had been attainted for denying the supremacy of the King ; and Barnes, Garret, and Jerome, for maintaining heterodox opinions, were coupled, Catholics and Protestants, on the same hurdles ; drawn together from the Tower to Smith- field, and while the former were hanged and quartered as traitors, the latter were consumed in the flames as heretics. The King had formerly sanctioned the publication of an English version of the Bible, and granted permission to all his subjects to peruse it ; but in 1543, he had discovered that the indiscriminate reading of the holy volumes had not only generated a race of teachers who promulgated doctrines the most strange and contradictory, but had taught ignorant men to discuss the meaning of the inspired writings in alehouses and taverns, tUl, heated with 186 GENERAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. - headed at Tower Hill, in London; and seventy-four of the officers were hung on the walls of Carlisle. The several rebellions which occurred in the north having subsided, and the King's anger being satiated with the blood of the chief rebels, he issued out a general pardon to all the northern counties, excepting, however, twenty- two persons, most of whom were taken, and actually suffered in one place or another. In the month of August, 1541, Henry, in order to quiet the minds of the people, receive their submission, aud reconcile them to his government, made a progress to the north, accompanied by the Queen. Another motive for this journey was, that he proposed to have- a conference at York, with his nephew, James V., King of Scotland, in order to settie, if possible, a lasting peace.* " On his entrance into Yorkshire, he was met by two hundred gentlemen of the same shire, in coats of velvet, and four thousand tall yeomen and serving men, well horsed, who, on their knees, made submission to him by the mouth of Sir Robert Bowes, and gave to the King £900. On Bams dale, the Archbishop of York, with more than three hundred priests, met the King, and, making a like submission, gave to him £600. The like sub mission was made by the Mayors of York, Newcastle, and Hull, and each of them gave the King £100. "f The Scottish nobility and ecclesiastics doubting the sincerity of JBenry, prevailed upon James to forego the proposed meeting ; and thus disappointed, the English monarch, after a sojourn of twelve days, left York abruptly on the 29th of September. During his stay here, he estabUshed a President and Council in the City, under the great seal of Oyer and Terminer, which continued till the reign of Charles I. The first President was Thomas, Duke of Norfolk. *The power of this court was to hear and determine aU causes on the north side of the Trent. In the same year. Sir John Neville, knt., and ten other persons, were taken in rebellion, and executed at York. Soon after the King abolished the papal authority in England, the clergy were divided into two opposite factions, denominated the men of the old and the new learning. Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester, and Lee, Archbishop of York with the Bishops of London, Durham, and Bath and Wells, were at the head of the former ; and the leaders of the latter were Cranmer, Arch bishop of Canterbury ; Latimer, Bishop of Worcester ; and Shaxton and Fox, Bishops of Sarum and Hereford. And during the whole of the time, from the commencement of the revolt, until the death of the King, the creed of the * Hume, vol. iv., p. 183. t HoUinshed Chron., 1582, GENEEAL HISTORY OF tOEKSHlRE. 187 Church of England depended on the theological caprice of its supreme headi Henry's infallibility continually osciUated between the two parties in the church. His hostility to the Court of Rome led him at times to incline to the men of the new learning ; but his attachment to the ancient faith— which is most manifest throughout the work -—quickly brought him back. The leaders of both parties, warmly as they might be attached to their own opinions, did not aspire to the crown of martyrdom ; they were always ready to suppress, or even to abjure, their real sentiments at the command of their wayward and imperious master. Both parties carefully studied the inclinations of the King, and sought by the most servile submission to win his confidence. In 1536, the head of the church, with the aid of his theologians, compiled certain " Articles," which were ordered to be read to the people in the churches without any comment. The Book of Articles may be divided into three parts. The first declares that the beUef in the three Creeds — ^the Apostles', the Nicene, and the Athanasian — is necessary for salvation ; the second explains the three great Sacraments of Baptism, Penance, and the Holy Eucharist, and pronounces them the ordinary means of justification; and the third teaches that, though the use of images, the intercession of saints, and the usual ceremonies in the service, have not in themselves the power to remit sin, or justify the soul, yet they are highly profitable, and ought to be retained. Henry having by these Articles, fixed the landmarks of English orthodoxy, now ordered the Convocation " to set forth a plain and sincere exposition of doctrine " for the better information of his subjects. This task was accomplished by the publication of a book, entitled, " The Godly and Pious Institution of a Christian Man," — a work which was subscribed by aU the Bishops and dignitaries of the church, and pronounced by them to accord " in aU things with the true meaning of Scripture." It explains the Creeds, the seven Sacraments, which it divides into three of a higher, and four of a lower order, the ten Commandments, the Paternoster and Ave Maria, Justi fication, and Purgatory. It denies the supremacy of the Pope, and inculcates passive obedience to the King ; and that Sovereigns are accountable to God alone ; and it is chiefly remarkable for the earnestness with which it refuses salvation to aU persons out of the pale of the CathoUc Church. By way of concession to the men of the new learning, as well as to replenish his coffers, the King ordered a number of hoUdays to be abolished, shrines to be de- moUshed, and superstitious relics to be burnt. There is one proceeding in connection with this order, which on account of its singularity and absurdity deserves attention. In the reign of Henry IL, Thomas a Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, 190 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. controversy and liquor, they burst into injurious language and provoked each other to breaches of the peace. And in his last speech to the Parliament, he complained bitterly of the religious dissensions which pervaded every parish in the realm. After observing that it was partly the fault of the clergy, some of whom were " so stiff in their old mumpsimus, and others so busy in their new sumpsimus," instead of preaching the word of God, they were employed in railing at each other ; and partly the fault of the laity, who delighted in censuring the proceedings of the clergy, he said : " If you know that any preach perverse doctrine, come and declare it to some of our Council, or to us, to whom is committed by God the authority to reform and order such causes and' behaviours; and be not judges yourselves of your own fantastical opinions and vain expositions ; and although you be permitted to read holy Scripture, and to have the word of God in your mother tongue, you must understand it is licensed you so to do, only to inform your conscience, and inform your children and families, and not to dispute, and to make Scripture a railing and taunting stock against priests and preachers. I am veiry sorry to know and hear," he added, " how irreverently that precious jewel, the word of God, is disputed, rhymed, sung, and jingled, in every ale house and tavern, contrary to the true meaning and doctrine of the same ; and yet I am as much sorry, that the readers of the same foUow it in doing so faintly and coldly. For of this I am sure, that charity was never so faint among you, and virtuous and godly Uving was never less used, nor God himself among you never less served."* Tyndal's and Coverdale's versions of the Bible were this year (1543) ordered to be disused altogether, as " crafty, false, and untrue ; '' and per mission to read the authorised translation, without note or comment, was confined to persons of the rank of lords or gentiemen. A new work was published in the same year, with the title of " A necessary Doctrine and Erudition for any christned man,'' or the " King's .Book.'' This book, the composition of which occupied two committees of prelates and theologians for three years, contains a more full exposition of the doctrines to be taught, than that given in a previously published book, caUed " The Institution," with the addition of Transubstantiation, and the sufficiency of communion under one kind. The doctrines contained in this book were approved of by both Houses of Convocation ; and the Archbishop ordered them to be studied and foUowed by every preapher. Towards the latter end of his reign, Henry became more arbitrary, both • HaU, p. 160. GENEEAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. 191 in spirituals and temporals. The Archbishops of Canterbury and York, the Bishop of London, and several other prelates, were obliged to make conveyances in his favour, of many manors belonging to their different dioceses, upon very slight considerations, and these deeds were confirmed by Parliament.* After having long indulged without restraint, in the pleasures of the table, Henry at last became so enormously corpulent, that he could neither sup port the weight of his own body, nor remove without the aid of machinery into the different apartments of his Palace. Even the fatigue of subscribing his name to the writings which required his signature, was more than he could bear ; and three Commissioners were appointed to perform that duty. An inveterate ulcer in the thigh, which had more than once threatened his Ufe, and which now seemed to baffle all the skill of his surgeons, added to the irascibiUty of his temper ; and in the latter part of the year 1546, his health was rapidly declining. In his last illness, according to one account, he was constantly attended by his confessor, the Bishop of Rochester; he heard mass daily in his chamber, and received the communion under one kind. Another account states that he died in the anguish of despair ; and a third represents him refusing spiritual aid tiU he could only reply to the exhortation of the Bishop by a squeeze of the hand. As the awful hour of his disso lution approached, we are told by Burnet, that he became more froward, imperious, and untraotable, than ever. His courtiers durst not remind him of the change he was shortly to undergo, or desire him to prepare himself for it. At length, Burnet says, Sir Anthony Denny had the courage and honesty to disclose it to him ; the King expressed his sorrow for the sins of his past life, and said he trusted in the mercies of Christ, which were greater than his sins. He died at Westminster, on Friday, the 28th of January, 1547, in the fifty-sixth year of his age, and thirty-eighth of his reign, leaving behind him the terrible character, that throughout his long reign he neither spared man in his anger, nor woman in his lust. By his wiU he provided for the interment of his body, the celebration of masses, and the distribution of alms for the benefit of his soul.-|- This will is now deposited in the Chapter House, Westminster. * Vide the Act 27th Henry VIII., o. 16. -t The bo'dy of Henry lay in state in the Chapel of Whitehall, which was hung with black cloth ; eighty large wax tapers were kept constantly burning ; twelve lords mourners sat around within a rail ; and every day masses and a dirge were performed. At the commencement of the service, Norroy, King-at-Arms, called aloud : " Of your charity, pray for the soul of the high and mighty Prince, our late Sovereign Lord, Henry VIII." 192 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. Henry VIH. was succeeded on the throne by his only son Edward VL, (by Jane Seymour, his third Queen), being then just nine years old. His coronation was solemnized on the 20th of the foUowing month (February), a new form having being drawn up for it, by his uncle, the Duke of Somerset, now caUed the Lord Protector, and the ceremony was concluded with a solemn high mass sung by Archbishop Cranmer.* Somerset, and the other guardians of the youthful Monarch, were favourable to the new doctrines, and to the professors of the new learning, though they deemed it prudent to conceal such predilection during the life time of Henry ; and now that they were freed from restraint, they openly professed themselves the patrons of the new Gospel. They then undertook to establish a different religious creed, and with that view they entrusted the education of Edward to the most zealous though secret partisans of the reformed doctrines ; and in a short time the royal pupil believed that the worship so rigorously enforced by his father was idolatrous. The diffusion of the " new learning" was now aided by all the influences of the Crown. The zeal of the King's guardians was the more active, as it was stimulated by the prospect of reward ; for though they were the depositories of the sovereign authority, they had yet to make their private fortunes ; and the church, notwithstanding the havoc which had been made in its possessions during the last reign, had yet some gleanings left. Ac cordingly, Edward's first ParUament, held in the first year of his reign, caused a survey and inquisition to be made and taken, of all the lands de signed for the maintenance of Chantries, Free Chapels, and Colleges, which had not been fully effected iu the reign of his father, and all the revenues given for obits, anniversaries, lights in churches, together with all the lands belonging to Guilds or Fraternities, on the same account.f This Act did not On the 14th of Februaiy the body was removed to Sion House, on the 15th to Windsor, and the next day was interred in the midst of the choir, near the body of Jane Seymour. Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester, preached the sermon, and read the funeral service, which concluded with the Psalm " De profundis." See Sandford, 493 ; Strype, 2 ; Eeo. in., 17 ; Hayward, 375. * Strype's Cranmer, p. 144. t For Chantries and Free Chapels, See note at foot of page 181. The Obit was the anniversary of any person's death ; and to observe such a day, with prayer, alms, or other commemorations, was called keeping of the obit. Anniversaries were simUar to the obits, inasmuch as they were the yearly returns of the death of persons, which the religious registered in their obitual or martyrology, and annually observed in gratitude to their founders and benefactors. Guild signifies a fraternity or society, many of whioh existed formerly for reUgious or charitable purposes. The name is derived from the Saxon Gildan, to pay, because every member paid something towards the expenses of the society. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. 193 pass without great difficulty ; ' Cranmer and others of the Reformers opposed it, knowing well, that when once these revenues were in the Sovereign's hands, the Church would be deprived of them for ever ; and they (the Re formers) hoped for some favourable opportunity to convert them to uses beneficial to the reformed religion. The people, too, iu general continued to murmur at these proceedings. Many towns petitioned against them. We have not met with the record of a petition from the City of York on the subject; but the people of HuU petitioned and complained, " That the Church was ruined, the clergy beggared, aU learning despised, and that the people began to grow barbarous, atheistical, and rude.* Finding that they were likely to be disappointed in their expectations, the rapacious courtiers induced the young King, either to give to them, or other wise to sell greatly below their real value, most of these forfeited houses, and to pay the said endowments out of the Crown's revenues, as is done, in part at least, even to this day. There was a clause in the Act, purporting that these revenues should be converted to the erecting and maintenance of Grammar Schools, and to the better provision for preachers, curates, and readers ; and this seems, in part, to have been put in practice, for many schools in different parts of the Kingdom were founded at that period, and mostly endpwed out of the Chantry lands, disposed of as they had been at so much below their value. By this act 90 CoUeges, 110 Hospitals, and 2,734 Chantries and Free Chapels, were destroyed. In the beginning of this year (1548) the Council made great alterations in church offices. By an order, dated January the 28th, carrying candles on Candlemas day ; making the sign of the cross on the forehead with ashes on Ash Wednesday ; and bearing palms on Palm Sunday, were forbidden ; as also were the rites used on Good Friday and Easter Sunday. Confession was left optional, and it was ordered that aU images and pictures should be removed from churches. In the Parliament which met on the 24th of * Eecords of Hull. It must be ever lamented that the destroyers of the reUgious houses did not spare the learning of the nation, collected through so many centuries, and deposited in the Ubraries of these institutions. No — all was sacrificed during the exterminating period, whioh put an end to the existence of the CathoUc Church as a national estabUshment. Manuscripts, which can never be renewed, were consigned to profane uses ; whole ship loads were transported to the continent ; history, togography, biography, records, were alike bartered for a base equivalent, and petty tradesmen were furnished with paper for common purposes, whioh was worth its weight in gold. — Coll. Eccl. Hist., vol. ii. Bale asserts, that he knew a merchant, who received as many manu- scripts from monastic libraries for forty shillings, as would serve him for all the pur poses of hisbusiness for twenty years. 2 C 194 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE, November, in the same year, a biU was introduced for the purpose of autho rizing the uses of a new Uturgy, or a book of common prayer, in the EngUsh language, which had been compiled by Cranmer and Holgate, Archbishops of Canterbury and York, and upwards of twenty other commissioners. This bill, which imposed very serious penalties upon any minister who should refuse to use it, or who should preach or speak in derogation of it, passed through the lower house without much difficulty ; but in the higher house it met with a warm opposition. It was carried however by a majority of 31 to 11. The non-contents were the Earl of Derby, the Bishops of London, Durham, Norwich, Carlisle, Hereford, Worcester, Westminster, and Chi chester, and the Lords Dacres and Wyndsor.* Though the new liturgy was compiled chiefly from the Roman Missals and Breviaries (such parts being omitted as were deemed objectionable, and nu merous additions and corrections introduced, to meet the wishes of the new teachers, without shocking the belief or the prejudices of their opponents), yet such was the attachment of the people to the ancient service, that in many counties they rose in open rebeUion against it. Insurrections broke out almost at the same time in the Counties of Wilts, Sussex, Surrey, Bucks, Hants, Berks, Kent, Gloucester, Somerset, Devon, Oxford, Norfolk, Essex, Suffolk, Hertford, Leicester, Rutland, Worcester, and other counties. These rebellious risings, some of which were very formidable, were finaUy suppressed with the aid of the foreign troops — the bands of adventurers that had been raised on the continent to serve in the war against Scotland. In connection with these risings was an insurrection at Seamer, near Scarborough, in the second year of this reign. It was promoted by William Dale, the parish clerk ; William Ambler, or Ombler, of East Haslerton, yeoman ; and John Stevenson, of Seamer. They set fire to the beacon at Staxton in the night, and thereby assembled a rude mob, to the number of 3,000, whose avowed object was the restoration of the ancient faith. This rabble, before they were suppressed, committed several outrages ; a party of them went at night to the house of a person named White, and seizing him and all who were in the house, carried them to the Wolds near Seamer, where they stripped and murdered them. Many apprehensions were at that time entertained that their numbers might swell to a formidable body, for discontent was pretty general among the people; but the Lord President of the North sent a detachment from York against them, and the King issued a proclamation, offering a general pardon to aU who would sub- * The King's Journal, 6. Journals, 331. Strype u., p. 84. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. 195 mit ; on which the greater number of them immediately dispersed, but the leaders were apprehended and executed at York. Among the other changes in thc forms and ceremonies of religion, in 1548, was the total abolition of Sanctuaries. In 1552 altars were ordered to be removed from churches, and tables substituted ; and in the same year the marriage of priests was declared good and valid. In 1551 the City of York suffered considerably from a severe nondescript epidemic, called the Sweating Sickness, which extraordinary disease was then prevalent in England. This frightful plague made its first appearance at Shrewsbury on the 15th of April, in this year, and spreading towards the north, continued till the month of October following. People in perfect health were the most liable to be seized with it, and, in the beginning of the distemper, it was almost certain death in a few hours. Stowe instances its awful fatality, by seven householders, who all supped cheerfuUy together over night, hut before eight o'clock the next morning, six of them were dead. So great was the fear generaUy excited by this alarming disorder, that large numbers fled out of the Kingdom, hoping to escape the contagion ; but, how ever incredible it may appear, the most veritable historians, positively assure us that the evil followed them, and was pecuUar to the English ; for in various parts of the continent, though breathing a purer air, amongst men of different nations, the infection seized them, and them only. It first mani fested itself in a sudden chiUiness, immediately followed by violent perspiration, which brought on sleep, and terminated in death. Few escaped who were attacked with fuU stomachs. How many died in York of this singular dis temper is not known, but it appears in Mr. Hildyard's CoUections that the mortaUty was great. This disease, says HoUinshed, made the nation begin to repent, and give alms, and remember God, from whom that plague might weU seem to be sent, as a scourge for the sins of the people ; but the im pression, it seems, very soon wore out ; for as the contagion in time ceased, so, continues he, our devotion decayed. In the beginning of the year 1553, the King was seized with an illness, which ended in a consumption, of which he died on the Oth of July foUowing, in the sixteenth year of his age, and seventh of his reign. During his iUness, the rapacious courtiers, not yet content with the spoils of the church which they had received, prevailed upon him to sign an order for visiting the churches, to examine what riches, plate, or jewels, belonged to them in general; and to seize aU the superfluous plate, ornaments, and linen, for the alleged pur pose of providing for the poor. " CalUng in these superfluous ornaments," says the Rev. J. Tickell, "which lay in the churches more for pomp than use 196 GENERAL HISTORY OP YOEKSHIEE. and converting them into money to be given to the poor, deserved no blame ; but the misfortune was, the poor had by much the least share of it, the greater part being appropriated to other uses."* When Mary, the daughter of Henry VIH. and Catherine of Arragon, and a Catholic, ascended the throne, in 1553, things were in great confusion, as might be expected, in consequence of the sacrilegious robberies and spolia tions committed by her licentious father and his harpies ; and in the endeavour to restore the plundered property, as well as the ancient faith, many cruelties were perpetrated in her reign. She certainly had great difficulties to en counter, considering the task which she had taken upon herself to perform ; for although her ministers professed deep sorrow for what had been done, and implored forgiveness, yet, such as were in possession of the spoils of the Monasteries, held them with an iron grasp ; they liked not that paying back again — it was double trouble. In the first Parliament of this reign (held soon after the acccesion of the Queen) aU the statutes with regard to religion, which had been passed during the reigns of her father and brother, were repealed, so that the national religion was again placed on the same footing on which it stood at the death of Henry VII. Intrigues were now set afoot and fomented by the Reformed preachers. In the same year a marriage was projected between the Queen and Philip, Prince of Spain, and son of the celebrated Emperor Charles V. An insurrection ensued, headed by Sir Thomas Wyat, the object of which was to force Mary to marry Courtenay, the young Earl of Devon (whom she had recently liberated from the Tower, to which he had been confined from his infancy by the jealousy of his father and brother); and failing in that, the conspirators resolved that he, in defiance of the Queen's authority, should marry the Princess Elizabeth, and repair with her to Devonshire and Corn waU, where the inhabitants were devoted to his family ; and where he would find the Duke of Suffolk, the Earl of Pembroke, and many other Lords ready to join his standard. These and other plans were suggested and discussed, but Courtenay, though ambitious, was timid and cautious, and aU their attempts fa/iled. Of the participation in the treason of the insurgents of the Princess Elizabeth, there could hardly exist a doubt; and for several weeks Renard, the Spanish Ambassador, endeavoured to extort the Queen's consent that the Princess should be condenaned, and sent to the scaffold. She was a competitor for the Crown, he argued ; she had accepted the of&r of the rebels, and ought to suffer the penalty of her treason. However, that Queen, to • History of Kingston-upon-HuU, p. 217. GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE, 197 whom we are accustomed to apply the opprobious epithet of "bloody," dis- regarded these and other well-founded arguments, and contented, herself by proposing to her Council that some one of her Lords should take charge of the Princess in a private house in the country ; but no man being found willing to incur the responsibility, she was sent to the Tower, and afterwards to Woodstock, Some of the leaders of this rebellion, including Wyat, were condemned and executed ; others obtained pardon, and out of four hundred taken in the act of rebellion, but sixty suffered the penalty of their crime. A learned and impartial historian justly observes, that if on this occasion sixty of the insurgents were sacrificed to the justice and resentment of Mary, we shall find in the next reign, that after a rebeUion of a less formidable aspect, some hundreds of victims were required to appease the offended majesty of her sister. And if we look at the conduct of government after the rebellions of 1715 and 1745, we shall not find that the praise of superior lenity is due to more modern times. During the insurrection referred to (which was chiefly confined" to the County of Kent) a party of the insurgents attempted, by stratagem, to take the Castle of Scarborough, which at the time was but sUghtly garrisoned. Mr. Thomas Stafford, second son of Lord Stafford, coUected some fugitives in France, which he disguised in the habits of peasants and countrymen, and took with him to Scarborough on a market day, under the most unsuspicious appearances. He, with about thirty of his little troop, stroUed into the -Castle at intervals with a careless air, apparentiy to gratify their curiosity. Embracing a favourable opportunity, they, at the same moment, secured the different sentinels, took possession of the gate, and admitted their remaining companions, who, under the exterior garb of countrymen, had concealed arms. They retained possession of the Castle, however, but for three days, for the Earl of Westmorland, with a considerable force, recovered it without loss. Mr. Stafford was, on account of his .quaUty, beheaded; and three other of the leaders, StreUey, Bradford, and Prpetor, were hanged and quar. tered ; hence the origin of " A Scarborough warning ; a word and a blow, and the blow eomes first" On the festival pf St. James, in a.d. 1554, the marriage of Philip and Mary was celebrated, in the Cathedral Church of Winchester, before crowds of the nohility of every part of Christendom, and with a magnificence which ha^s seldom been surpassed,* And in the Parliament which assembled in the same year the Papal supremacy was restored, and the Church of England * See a fuU description of the ceremony, in Eosso, p. 61. 198 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. was re-united with tha,t of Rome. The motion for the re-union was carried almost by acclamation. The dissolution of this Parliament was foUowed by an unexpected act of grace. The Lord ChanceUor and several members of the Council proceeded to the Tower, and, in the name of the King and Queen, released the state prisoners stUl confined on account of the insurrection of Northumberland and Wyat. From the sufferings of the Reformers, or the men of the " new learning,'' in the reign of Henry VIH., it might perhaps have been expected that they would have learned to respect the rights of conscience ; but experience proved the contrary. They had no sooner obtained the ascendency during the short reign of Edward, than they displayed the same persecuting spirit which they had formerly condemned. UnhappUy this was an age of religious intolerance, when to punish the professors of erroneous doctrine was inculcated as a duty, no less by those who rejected than by those who asserted the Papal authority ; and this is equaUy true of foreign religionists.* Archbishop Cranmer had compUed a code of ecclesiastical discipline for the government of the Reformed church, by which it was declared to be heresy to beUeve in Transubstantiation, to admit the Papal supremacy, or to deny Justification by Faith only ; and it was ordained that individuals accused of holding such heretical opinions should be arraigned before the spiritual courts, should be excommunicated on conviction, and after a respite of sixteen days, should, if they continued obstinate, be delivered to the civil magistrate, to suffer the punishment pro vided by law. Fortunately for the professors of the ancient faith, Edward died before the new canon law obtained the sanction of the legislature. By the accession of Mary the sword passed into the hands of the men of the " old learning," and Cranmer and his associates perished in the flames which they had prepared for the destruction of their opponents. After the passing of the Act for re-uniting the churches, the Reformed preachers acted in numerous instances with great imprudence, and really provoked chastise ment by the intemperance of their zeal. Fanaticism became rampant, and a new conspiracy was organized in the Counties of Cambridge, Suffolk, and Norfolk, and then the storm burst on their heads ; and if anything could be urged in extenuation of the cruelties which they afterwards suffered, it is the provocation given by themselves. They heaped on the Queen, her Bishops, and her religion, every indecent and irritating epithet which language could "¦ See Calvin, de suppUcio Surveti; Beza, de Heeriticus a civili magistratu puniendis; and Melancthon, in locis Com., c, xxxus, de Ecclesia, GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 199 supply. Her clergy could not exercise their functions without danger to their lives. A dagger was thrown at one priest in the pulpit ; a gun was discharged at another; and several wounds were inflicted on a third, while he administered the communion in his church. Some congregations prayed for the death of the Queen; tracts of the mostlibeUous and abusive character were transmitted from the exiles in Germany ; and successive in surrections were planned by the fugitives in France. " For the better pre servation of the peace of the realm,'' several of the preachers, with the most zealous of their disciples, were tried and executed for heresy ; and amongst them Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer, each of whom had been concerned in the rebeUion of Wyat. Many of the Reformed clergy sought an asylum in foreign climes, but the Lutheran Protestants refused to receive them, styling them heretics, because they rejected the corporal presence of Christ in the Eucharist. They, however, met a cordial reception from the disciples of Calvin and Zuinglius, and obtained permission to open churches in Stras- burg, Frankfort, Geneva, Zurich, Basle, and Aran. The Reformed writers have described in glowing colours the sufferings, and sought to multiply the number of the victims of persecution in this reign ; while the Catholics have maintained that the reader should distrust the exaggerations of men heated with enthusiasm, and exasperated by oppression. The most impartial writers state that, after expunging from the catalogue of the martyrs the names of all who were condemned as felons or traitors, or who died peaceably in their beds, or who survived the pubUcation of their martyrdom, or who would for their heterodoxy have been sent to the stake by Reformed prelates themselves, had they been in possession of the power, the number of persons that suffered for religious opinion in the space of four years, was nearly two hundred. And yet these deductions and allowances take but Uttle from the infamy of the measure. The persecution continued at intervals tiU the death of the Queen, which occurred in 1558. Mary's successor on the throne was the Princess Elizabeth, another daughter of Henry VHI., by his second wife, Anne BuUeyn, or Boleyn. During the reign of her sister, Elizabeth professed to be a most zealous Catholic. She attended mass and could count her beads with the rapidity and devotion of a saint. Yet, notwithstanding these outward appearances. Queen Mary knew the treachery and deception of her heart, and was never confident of her actions. She long suspected Elizabeth's conduct, and when dying, requested that she would no longer deceive her as to her real character. With a great oath, Elizabeth said, she hoped "the earth would open and swaUow her up, if she were not in heart and soul a Catholic.'' 200 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. No sooner, however, was EUzabeth Queen, than she dismissed from office all those who were not after her way of thinking, and re-established the Protestant reUgion, In the second session of Parliament in this reign, the obligation of taking the oath of supremacy (the administration of which had hitherto been con fined to persons seeking preferment in the Church, or accepting office under the Crown) was extended to others ; and the first refusal was made an offence punishable by premunire, and the second by death, as in cases of treason. This measure, which evidently aimed at the total extinction of the ancient creed, met with considerable opposition from many Protestants, who ques tioned both its justice and its policy ; but after a long struggle it was carried by the efforts of the ministers ; and had its provisions been strictly carried into execution, the scaffolds in every part of the Kingdom would have been drenched with the blood of the sufferers. The Convocation, which had as sembled, according to ancient custom, at the same time with the Parliament, now drew up a new creed, chiefly founded upon that formerly published by the authority of Edward VI. This important work, called the Thirty-nine Articles, as they now exist, received the subscriptions of the two Houses of Convocation in 1562. But what a strange and inconsistent being is man! The framers of the Thirty-nine Articles could not have forgotten the perse cution of the last reign — many of them having suffered imprisonment or exile for their dissent from the estabUshed church ; and yet, as if they had suc ceeded to the infaUibiUty which they condemned, they refused to others the liberty of religious choice which they had arrogated to themselves. Instead of considering the newly drawn up articles, as merely the distinguishing doctrines of the church, recently established by law, they laboured to force them upon the consciences of others, by making it a crime, subject to the penalties of heresy, to question their truth. But the attempt was opposed by the Council, as being unnecessary as far as regarded Catholics, since they could at any moment be brought to the scaffold under the Act of Supremacy. The cruel penal laws, enacted in this reign for the extirpation of the CathoUc religion, awarded the punishment of death in its most hideous form to him who should ordain a Catholic priest within the Kingdom. It was also death to a Catholic priest to enter the Kingdom from abroad ; death to harbour such a priest ; death to confess to such a priest ; death for a priest to celebrate mass ; and death for a Catholic to attend at mass. But in addition to the Catholics, the Puritans (who derived their origin from some of the exiled ministers, who, during the reign of Mary, had im bibed the opinions of Calvin) were a perpetual cause of disquietude to the GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YORKSHIRE. 201 Queen. They approved of much that had been done, and urged her to a further reformation. They objected to the superiority of the Bishops, and the jurisdiction of the episcopal courts ; to the repetition of the Lord's Prayer, to the responses of the people, to the sign of the cross in the administration of baptism, to the ring and the words of the contract in that of marriage, to the observance of festivals, the chants of the psalms, the use of musical in struments in churches, and to the habits, " the very livery of the beast,'' worn by the ministers during the celebration of, divine service.* The Queen who had a rooted antipathy against the doctrines of the Puritans, and an insuperable jealousy of aU their proceedings, erected a tribunal, called the High Commission Court, for the purpose of enquiring, on the oath of the person accused, and on the oaths of witnesses, of aU heretical, erroneous, and dangerous opinions, &o. Catholics and Puritans alike felt the vengeance of this tribunal ; many of the Puritan clergy being imprisoned and suspended. In 1571, not fewer than seven bills for a further reformation, were introduced into the House of Commons. To the Queen such conduct appeared an act of high treason against her supremacy ; and on the dissolution of the ParU- ment the Lord Keeper, by her command, informed the Puritans, that she " did utterly disallow and condemn their folly, in meddling with things not appertaining to them, nor within the capacity of their understandings, "-j- A slight glance at the events of this reign reveals to us, that the subjects of the Queen were required to submit to the superior judgment of their Sovereign, and to practice that religious worship which she practised. Every other form of service, whether it were that of Geneva, in its evangelical purity, or the mass, with its supposed idolatry, was ^strictly forbidden, and both the Catholic and the Puritan were made liable to the severest penalties if they presumed to worship God according to the dictates of their con sciences. But the experience of ages has shown that religious opinions are not to be eradicated by severities. In 1569, the CathoUcs made a fruitless attempt in the north to restore their reUgion by assembling, to the number of 1,000 horse and 4,000 foot, under the command of Thomas Percy, Earl of Northumberland,* and Charles Neville, Earl of Westmorland. The first object of the insurgents was to release the Queen of Scots from Tetbury, and endeavour to extort from Elizabeth a declaration that she (Mary) was next heir to the throne. The proclamations which they pubUshed, stated that they did not intend to at tempt anything against the Queen, to whom they vowed unshaken allegiance. ¦? Neal's Piuitans, c. 4, 5. t D'Ewes's Journal, 161, 177. 2 D 202 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. Her Majesty is surrounded, says one of these documents, " by divers newe set-upp nobles, who not onlie go aboute to 'overthrow aud put down the ancient nobilitie of the realm, but also have misused the Queue's Majistie's owne personne, and also have by the space of twelve yeares now past set-upp and mayntayned a new-found religion and heresie, contrary to God's word." Wherefore they caUed upon all true EngUshmen to join with them in their attempt to restore the crown, the nobUity, and the worship of God, to their former estate. " They saw around them examples of successful insurrection in the cause of religious liberty," says an impartial historian. " The Cal vinists of Scotland had estabUshed their own creed in defiance of aU oppo sition; the Calvinists of France had thrice waged war against their own Sovereign ; both had been aided with men and money by the Queen of Eng land. If this were lawful to other religionists, why might not they also draw the sword, and claim the rights of conscience." The first meetings of the chief insurgents were held at the seat of the Earl of Northumberland, near TopcUffe ; and they there entered into a cor respondence with the Duke of Alva, Governor of the Low Countries, and obtained his promise of a reinforcement of troops, and a supply of arms and ammunition. Rumours of the intended insurrection having gone abroad, the two Earls were summoned to appear at Court to answer for their conduct. This order from the Queen precipitated the rising before they were fully pre pared ; for the leaders had already proceeded so far in their designs, that they dare not trust themselves in the Queen's hands. They determined to begin the insurrection without delay ; and their first demonstration was made at Durham, where they had a mass celebrated in the Cathedral before several thousand people, and where they threw down the communion table, and tore the. English prayer books into pieces. Thence they marched forward to Staindrop, Darlington, Richmond, and Ripon, restoring the ancient service in each place. At the latter town they assembled round the market cross on the 18th of November, and after putting Sir WiUiam Ingilby, who had op posed them, to flight, they proceeded to Knaresborough and Wetherby, and thence to Clifford Moor. They then marched towards York, but hearing that the Earl of Essex, Lord President of the North, was there with 5,000 effective men, they retired and laid siege to Barnard Casfle. That fortress was under the command of Sir George Bowes and his brother, who, after a gaUant defence of eleven days, capitulated on condition that the garrison should be allowed to march, with their arms and ammunition, to York ; which they accordingly did. The Earl of Sussex, the Earl of Rutland, Lord Hunsdon, WiUiam, Lord Evers, and Sir Ralph Sadler, with their forces, to GENERAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. 203 the number of 7,000, now marched from York, against the rebels. On their approach, the leaders, through fear, fled into Scotland ; the insurgents dis persed, but most of them were killed or captured in their flight. The failure of this enterprise involved many of the conspirators in ruin ; and on Good Friday, the 27th of March, 1570, Simon Digby, of Aiskew, and John Ful thorpe, of Iselbeck, Esqrs. ; also Robert Pennymari, of Stokesley, and Thomas Bishop, jun., of Pocklington, gentlemen (all of whom were taken, and im prisoned in York Castle), were drawn to Knavesmire, and there " hanged, headed, and quartered," and their heads, with four of their quarters, were placed on the four principal gates of the City, and the other quarters were set up in different other parts of the country. The Earl of Westmorland found means to escape from Scotland to Flanders ; but the Earl of Northumberland was betrayed and given up by the Earl of Moreton, Viceroy of Scotland, and Lord Hunsdon, Governor of Berwick. He was conducted a prisoner to York, and beheaded on a scaffold erected for that purpose, in Pavement in that City, opposite the Church of St. Crux, on the 22nd of August, 1572, and his head was set upon a high pole over Micklegate Bar, where it remained about two years. His head appears not, however, to have been taken down by official authority ; for, from a curious old MSS., written about that period, AUen quotes the following memorandum, " In the year 1574, the head of the Earl of Northumberland was stolen in the night, from Micklegate Bar, by persons unknown.-]- The Earl died avowing the Pope's supremacy, denying that of the Queen, and affirming the land to be in a state of schism, and her adherents no better than heretics.* His body was buried in the Church of St. Crux, without any memorial, attended only by two of his men-servants, and three women. This was the last open attempt made to restore the Catholic religion in this Kingdom. Hume says great severity was exercised against such as had taken part in these rash enterprises ; no less than sixty- six of them were hanged in Durham ;| and about eight hundred persons are said, in the whole, to have suffered by the hands of the executioner. Between Newcastle and Wetherby, a distance of sixty mUes in length by forty in breadth, there was not a town or vUlage in which some of the inhabitants did not expire on the gibbet. During the progress of this rebellion the City of York was in daily ex- * In the same manuscript it is stated that during this year a very considerable earth quake was experienced at York. It further states that about the same time a prison was erected on Ouse bridge, in the same City. t Speed. J Dr, Lingard says that no less than 300 suffered in the County of Durham, 204 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. pectation of a siege, as is abundantly proved by many curious entries in the Corporation Records. For example, on the 18th of November, it is ordered " that the Wardens do bring into the Citie aU sties and ladders that may lie in the suburbs thereof, and the inhabitants do make their abode in the Citie thys troblesome time." On the 21st, it is directed, " that whensoever any alarm shal hapen within this Citie, no manner of men, women, ne chUdren, shall make any showteying, crying, nor noyse, but to keep silens."* A City guard of one hundred men is also spoken of. The many warm contests, with respect to trade and commerce, which took place between the City of York and the town of Kingston-upon HuU, — being for many years rivals in this respect — were amicably terminated by an agree ment made and entered into on the 28th of June. 1577. On that day articles were agreed on between Hugh Greaves, the then Lord Mayor of York, and the citizens of the said City, on the one part ; and John Thornton, Mayor of Kingston-upon-HuU, and the burgesses of the same, on the other part ; by the mediation and before the Hon. Henry, Earl of Huntingdon, Lord Presi dent of the North. By this agreement aU differences and disputes between the two parties finally terminated. In the year 1568 an investigation into the charges made against the un fortunate Mary, Queen of Scotland, was held at York, before Commissioners appointed hy Queen Elizabeth. These Commissioners were the Duke of Norfolk, the Earl of Sussex, and Sir Ralph Sadler. Mary was represented by Lesley, Bishop of Ross ; the Lords Livingstone, Boyd, and Herries, and three others. During these conferences, which continued for several days, the City of York was the scene of active and intricate negociation ; but at length the proceedings were transferred to London. In 1585 many of the churches of York were united. In 1600 the City was again visited with a very serious earthquake, which greatly alarmed the inhabitants. On Thurs day ,-|- the 24th of March, 1603, Queen Elizabeth finished her long, prosperous, but rigorous and imperious reign. She died at her Manor of Richmond, in Surrey, in the seventieth year of her age, and forty-fifth of her reign, and was buried in Westminster, in the Chapel of Henry VII., where a stately monument is erected to her memory.]: * Memorials of the Eebellion of 1569, Svo., London, 1840, p. 76. ¦t Stowe observes that this day of the week was fatal to King Henry VIH., and all his posterity; himself, his son Edward, and his daughters Mary and EUzabeth, having died on that day. J The reign of Elizabeth was long and prosperous ; and was somewhat conspicuous, too, for what Pennant calls its " romantic fooleries." TUts and tournaments were the GENEEAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 205 Mary and her sister Elizabeth — two zealous promoters of rival creeds — are dead ; and here we pause to ask, are the religions which these two Queens professed, to be charged with the excesses perpetrated in their reigns ? By no means ! far from it. This would be calumny of the blackest dye. If we attribute the persecutions in Mary's reign to the spirit of Catholicism, must we not, by the same rule, attribute the rigorous and protracted persecutions in the reign of Elizabeth, and all the diabolical penal laws, to the spirit of Protestantism ? Assuredly we must. But both the Catholic and Protestant church equaUy deplore those direful persecutions, and most emphaticaUy and unequivocally condemn the laws which countenanced them. To what then are these persecutions to be attributed ? To the impiety of the age, the cruelty of individuals, and not to the religion of our forefathers, or the spirit of the reformed creed. And perhaps the cause may be discovered in the fact, that the extirpation of erroneous doctrine was inculcated as a duty, by the leaders of every religious party. Mary is called " bloody," but im partial writers teU us, that she only practised what the Reformers taught ; and that it was her misfortune, rather than her fault, that she was not more enlightened than the wisest of her coutemporaries. The successor of Elizabeth was James VI. of Scotiand (son of Mary Queen of Scots), who became James I. of England. That Monarch visited York in 1603, on his way from Scotland to London, to take possession of the Crown of England, and was received hy the Lord Mayor and citizens with great magnificence, and splendid demonstrations of loyalty. The fol lowing quaint account of his reception at York, is from the pen of Mr. Ed ward Howes, the continuator of Stowe's Annals. " On the 15th of AprU, 1603, his Majestie set forwards from Durham towards York, his train stiU increasing by the numbers of gentiemen from the south parts, that came to offer him fealty ; whose love, although he greatiy tendered, yet did their multitudes so oppress the country, and make pro visions so dear, that he was fain to publish an inhibition against the in ordinate and daUy access of the people coming, that niany were stopped in their way. " The High Sheriffe of Yorkshire, very weU accompanied, attended his Majestie to Master Inglebyes, beside TopcUffe, being about sixteen mUes from Walworth, where the King had lain the night before, who with all joy and humiUty received his Majestie, and he rested there that night. deUght of " good Queen Bess." " At these, in her 66th year," says that author, " with wrinkled face, red perriwig, Uttie eyes, hooked nose, skinny Ups, and black teeth, she could suck in the gross flatteries of her favoured courtiers.'' 206 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. " The Lord Mayor and Aldermen of Yorke, upon certayne knowledge of the King's journey into England, with all diUigence consulted what was fittest to be done, for the receiving and entertayning so mighty and gracious a Sove- raygne, as well within the Cittie, as at the outmost bounds thereof; as also what further service, or duteous respect, they ought to show his Majestie uppon so good and memorable an occasion as now was offered unto them ; and thereupon they sent Robert Askwith, Alderman, unto Newcastle, and there in the behalfe of the Lord Mayor and citizens of Yorke, to make tender of their zealous love and dutie, for the which his Majestie gave them heartie thankes. "And uppon Saturday, the 16th of April, John Robinson and George Bucke, Sheriffes of Yorke, with their white roddes, being accompanied with an hundred citizens, and threescore other esquires, gentlemen, and others, the most substantial persons, being all well mounted, they received the King at the east end of Skip Bridge, which was the utmost boundes of the libertyes of the Cittie of Yorke ; and there kneeUng, the Sheriffes deUvered their white roddes unto the King, with acknowledgment of their love and aUegiance unto his Majestie, for the which the King, with cheerfuU countenance thanked them, and gave them their roddes agayne; the which they carried aU the way upright in their handes, ryding all the way next before the sergeant at armes. " And before the King came to the Cittie, his Majestie had sent Syr Thomas ChaUenor to the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, to knowe who formerlye had borne the sworde before the Kinges of England at their coming to Yorke ; and to whom of right that office at that tyme appertayned, because it had been anciently performed by the Earls of Cumberland, as hereditary to that house, but was now chaUenged by the Lord President of the North, for the tyme being, as proper to his place. But upon due search and examination it was agreed, that the honour to bear the sworde before the King in Yorke, belonged unto George, Earle of Cumberland, who all the while the King was in Yorke, bare the sworde, for so the King wUled, and for that purpose sent Syr Thomas ChaUenor agayne to the Lord Mayor, and the Lord Mayor bare the great mace of the Cittie, going always on the left hand of the Earle. * " And when the King came to the Cittie, which was weU prepared to give his Highness and his royal traine entertaynment, then the Lord Mayor, with the twelve Aldermen in their scarlet robes, and the four-and-twentye in crim son gownes, accompanied with many others of the gravest menne, met the King at Micklegate Bar, his Majestie going betweene the Duke of Lennox and Lord Hume ; and when the King came near to the scaffold where the GENERAL HISTOR'Sf OP YOEKSHIRE. 207 Lord Mayor, with the Recorder, the twelve Aldermen, and the four-and- twentye, were all kneeling, the Lord Mayor said, ' Most high and mightie Prince, I and my brethren do most heartilie wellcome your Majestie to your Highness' Cittie, and in token of our duties, I deliver unto your Majestie aU my authoritie of this your Highness' Cittie,' and then rose uppe and kissed the sworde, and delivered it into the King's hand, and 'the King gave it to the Duke of Lennox, who, according to the King's appointment, delivered it unto the Earle of Cumberland, to bear before his Majestie. " The Lord Mayor also delivered up the keyes of the Cittie, which the Lord Hume received and carried them to the Manor. And when the Re corder had ended his grave oration on behalfe of the Cittie, then the Lord Mayor, as the King commanded, took horse, and bare the Cittie mace, ryding on the left hande of the Earle of Cumberland, who bare the sword of the Cittie, and so attended his Majestie to St. Peter's Church, and was there royally received by the Deans, Prebends, and the whole quyer of singing menne of that Cathedral church in their richest copes. At the entrance into the church, the Dean made a learned oration in Latin, whioh ended, the King ascended the quyer. The canapa was supported by six Lordes, and was placed in a throne prepared for his Majestie, and during divine service there came three sergeants at armes with their maces, pressing to stand by the throne, but the Earle of Cumberland put them down, saying, that place, for that tyme, belonged to hym and the Lord Mayor, and not to them. " Divine service being ended, the King returned in the same royal manner he came; the canapa being carried over him into the Manor of St. Maryes, where the Lord Burleigh and Council gave their attendance, and received his Majestie, where Dr. Bennet having ended his eloquent oration, the King went into his chamber, the sworde and mace being there borne by the Earle and Lord Mayor, who left the sword and mace there that night ; and when the Lord Mayor was to depart, the Lord Hume deUvered him agayne the keyes of the Cittie. " The next day, being Sundai, the 17th of April, the Lord Mayor, with the Recorder, the TUdermen and Sheriffes, and the twentye-foure,*-with all their chief officers, and the Preacher of the Cittie, and Town Clerk, in very comely order, went into the Manor, of whome, as soone as the King had knowledge of their coming, willed that so many of them as the roome would permit should come into the privy chamber, where the Lord Mayor presented his Majestie with a fayre cuppe, with a cover of silver and gilt, weighing seven tie and three ounces, and in the same two hundred anj els of gold; and the Lord Mayor sayde, 'Most high and mightie Prince, I and my brethren. 208 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. and all the whole commonaltie of this your Highnesse Cittie, present unto your most excellent Majestie this cuppe and golde, in token of the dutifuU affection wee bear your Highnesse in our hearts, most humbly beseeching your Highnesse favourable acceptance thereof, and your most gracious favour to this your Highnesse Cittie of York; ' the which his Majestie graciously accepted, and sayde unfo them, ' God wiU bless you the better for your good wUl towards your King.' The Lerd Mayor humbly besought the King to dine with him the next Tuesday; the King answered, he should ride thence before that time, but he would break his fast with him in the next morning. " This Sundai the King went to the Minster, and heard a sermon, made by the Dean,* who was Bishop bf Limerick, in Ireland. The Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and Sheriffes, and foure and twentye attended upon the King, the Earle stiU bearing the sworde, the Lord Mayor the mace, and the Sheriffes bearing their roddes, as well within the church as in the streets, marching before the King into the Manor. The next day, being Mondai, at nine o'clock, the Lord Mayor came to the Manor, being accompanied and attended by the Recorder, Aldermen, and foure and twentye, and others, and attended there ; and at ten of the clock, the King, with his royal traine, went to the Lord Mayor's house, and there dined ; after dinner the King walked to the Dean's house, and was there entertayned with a banquette, at the Deanerie ; the King took horse, and passed through the Cittie forth at Micklegate towards Grimstone, the house of Sir Edward Stanhope, the Earle of Cumberland and the Lord Mayor bearing the sworde and mace before the King, until they came to the house of St. Kathren, at which place the Earle said, 'Is it your Majesty's pleasure that I deliver the sworde agayne unto my Lord Mayor, for he is now at the utmost partes of the Liberties of this Cittie ? ' Then the King wiUed the Earle to deliver the Mayor his sworde agayne. Then the Mayor alighted from his horse, and kneeling, took his leave of the King, and the King pulling off his glove, took the Mayor by the hande, and gave him thankes, and so rode towards Grimstone, being attended by the Sheriffes to the middle of Tadeaster bridge, being the utmost bounds of their Liberties. The next day the Lord Mayor, according as he was commanded by a noble man, came the next morning unto the Court at Grimstone, accompanied by the Recorder, and foure of his brethren, viz. — ^WiUiam Robinson, James Birkbie, WiUiam Greenburie, and Robert Askwith, and certain chief officers of the Cittie ; and when his Majestie understood of their coming, he willed that the Mayor, and Master Robinson, and Master Birkbie should be brpught * Dr. Thornborough, GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE, 209 up into his bed-chamber ; and the King saide, ' My Lord Mayor, our mean ing was to have bestowed upon you a knighthood in your own house, but the companie being so great, we rather thought it good to have you here ;' and then his Majestie knighted the Lord Mayor,* for which honour the Lord Mayor gave his Majestie most humble and heartie thankes, and returned." HUdyard, in his Antiquities of York, tells us that the King was much pleased with the loyalty and affection paid him by the Lord Mayor and citizens, and that at dinner with them, he expressed himself much in favour of the City, and promised that he, himself, would come and be a burgess among them ; and that their river, which was in a bad condition, should be made navigable. From another source we learn that before the King left York, he ordered all prisoners in the City to be set at liberty, " vcUful mur derers, traitors, and papists being excepted." In the June following, his Queen, and their two eldest children. Prince Henry, and Lady Elizabeth, visited York on their road from Edinburgh to London, and met with a reception equally cordial. The royal party arrived in York on the Whitsun Eve, and on the following Wednesday departed for Grimston, &o. On this occasion the Lord Mayor and citizens presented to the Queen a large silver cup, with a cover double gilt, weighing forty-eight ounces, with eighty gold angels in it ; to the Prince, a silver cup, with a cover double gilt, weighing twenty ounces, and £20. in gold ; and to the Princess, a purse of twenty angels of gold. The King visited Pontefract in the same year, when he granted that Honour and Castle to the Queen, as part of her jointure. In the second year of this reign (1604), the plague, which, during the preceding year had carried off 30,578 persons in London, raged to an alarming extent at York, no less than 3,512 of the inhabitants falling vic tims to it, though by the precautions used, it was not of long duration. To prevent the contagion from spreading into the country, stone crosses were erected in various parts of the vicinity of York, where the country people, without coming into the City, met the citizens, and sold them their commodi ties. Several of these crosses are yet remaining. The infected were sent to Hob Moor, and Horse Fair, where wooden booths were erected for them ; and the Minster and Minster- Yard were close shut up. The Lord Presi dent's Courts were adjourned to Ripon and Durham, and many of the in habitants removed from the City. The year 1607 was remarkable for a severe frost, by which the river Ouse • Sir Eobert Watter. 2 E 210 GENEEAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIRE. became almost a solid body of ice. Various sports were practised on it ; and Drake says that a horse race was run on it from the Tower at Marygate end, under the great arch of the bridge, to the crane at Skeldergate postern. Seven years afterwards, there was so heavy a fall of snow in the month of January, during a frost of about eleven weeks, and when it was dissolved by a thaw, the Ouse overflowed its banks, and covered North Street and Skeldergate, so that the inhabitants were obUged to leave their houses. This inundation lasted ten days, and de^royed many bridges. It being the assize week, four boats were employed at the end of Ouse bridge to carry passengers across the river ; and the same number were engaged in Walmgate to ferry over the Foss. A drought succeeded, which continued till August foUowing, and caused a great scarcity of hay, beans, and barley. In 1617 (August 10th), King James, with his nobles and knights, both English and Scotch, visited York, on his progress to Scotland. The Sheriffs of the City, clad in their scarlet gowns, and attended by one hundred young citizens on horseback, met his Majesty on Tadeaster Bridge, and escorted him to Micklegate Bar, where he was received and welcomed by the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and Commonalty, with the usual formaUties ; and a silver cup, value £36. 5s. 7d., was presented to him, and an elegant purse, of the value of £3., containing a hundred double sovereigns. The Recorder deli vered a long oration, and on Ouse Bridge another speech was made to the King, by oue Sands Percvine, a London poet, respecting the cutting of the river, and making it navigable. His Majesty then rode to the Minster, vvhere he heard Divine Service, and thence retired to the Manor Palace, where he kept his Court.* The next day he dined at Sir George Young's house, in the Minster Yard, with Lord Sheffield, the Lord President, and after dinner, he created eight Knights, and examined the Cathedral and Chapter House, which he much admired. The following day his Majesty rode through the City, with all his train, to the Archiepiscopal Palace at Bishopthorpe, where he dined with Tobias Matthew, the Archbishop. After attending Divine Service in the Cathedral on Sunday, which was the 13th, " this sagacious Prince, the Solo mon of the North, touched about seventy persons afflicted with the King's Evil." That day he, and his whole Court, dined with the Lord Mayor, and after dinner he knighted the Mayor,-]- and Serjeant Hutton, the Recorder, Next day the King rode to Sheriff Hutton Park, and there knighted several gentlemen. On Tuesday, the 15th of August, Dr. Hodgeson, ChanceUor of o • Nichol's Progresses of James I., vol. ui., p. 271. -f Sir Eobert Askwith. GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. 211 the Church, and Chaplain to his Majesty, preached before him at the Mauor Palace ; and after sermon the King departed for Ripon, where he was pre sented with a gilt bowl, and a pair of Ripon spurs, which cost five pounds. On the 16th of April he slept at Aske Hall, the seat of T. Bower, Esq., whom he subsequently knighted at Durham. In March, 1625, James was seized with illness ; his indisposition was at first considered a tertian ague ; after wards the gout in the stomach ; but whatever was its real nature, under his obstinacy in refusing medicine, and the hesitation or ignorance of his physi cians, it proved fatal, for he died on the 27th of the same month, in the fifty ninth year of his age ; after a reign of twenty-two years over England, and over Scotland almost the whole of his life. Of his seven children, two only survived him ; Charles, his successor on the throne, and Elizabeth, the titular Queen of Bohemia. "James," writes Dr. Lingard, "though an able man, was a weak Monarch. His quickness of apprehension, and soundness of judgment, were marred by his credulity and partialities, his childish fears, and habit of vacillation. Eminently quaUfied to advise as a Counsellor, he wanted the spirit and reso lution to act as a Sovereign. His discourse teemed with maxims of political wisdom, his conduct frequently bore the impress of political imbecility. If, in the language of his flatterers, he was the British Solomon ; in the opinion of less interested observers, he merited the appeUation given to him by the Duke of Sully, that of the wisest fool in Europe."* Charles I. ascended the throne when he was in his twenty-fifth year, and his disastrous reign will, through aU time, occupy a distinguished place in the annals of England. During that eventful reign every part of the King dom was agitated by that mighty coUision which arose between the monarchial and democratic branches of the legislature ; but in the County of York, the shock was felt with greater violence than in any other county. Yorkshire was indeed shook to its centre by the contests which then took place between the prerogatives of the Crown and the privileges of the Parliament. No county in England has witnessed more of the civil wars, to which the Kingdom, in former ages, was exposed, than this ; and it is not a little re markable that Yorkshire, which afforded the scene of action for the battle which decided the fate of the House of Lancaster, on the field of Towton, should have witnessed the overthrow of the House of Stuart on the field of Marston, Indeed, the military history of Yorkshire, from the earliest times to the end of the great civU war, which ended with the restoration of Charles IL, is a study in itself well deserving of attention. * History of England, vol. ix., p. 333, Fcp. 8yo, S12 GENERAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE, A recent writer, in referring to the County of York as being the scene of numerous military encounters from the earliest ages, says, " It was in York shire where the most powerful nation of the aboriginal Britons dwelt ; where the Romans displayed their grandeur, and had their favourite station ; where the Saxons flrst exhibited their valour against the Picts and Scots ; where the roving Danes first gained a permanent establishment; and where the northmen sustained their greatest reverse, at Stamford Bridge, The Scot tish invaders never sustained a more complete defeat than at Standard HiU. A more bloody battle never took place in England than that of Towton Field. Yet aU these sink into insignificance, in their causes and consequences, com pared with that of Marston Moor."* Entering upon the stage of action inexperienced and impolitic, at a period too in many respects highly unfavourable, Charies had difficulties of no ordinary character to encounter; yet, on the other hand, few Monarchs ever came to the Crown of England with a greater variety of favourable circumstances, in some respects, than he did. He saw himself in posses sion of a flourishing Kingdom — his right to that Kingdom undisputed — and strengthened by .the alliance of the French King, whose sister he had recently married. But these circumstances were of little avail in the present critical posture of affairs. The supply granted by Parliament to his father, had not covered the moiety of the charges for which it had been voted, and James bequeathed to him debts amounting to £700,000. The accession, and marriage too, of the new King, had involved him in extraordinary expenses. It was, however, with cheerfulness and confidence that he threw himself on the bounty of his subjects. His first Parliament met on the 18th of June, and in this assembly he demanded the necessary supplies for carrying on the war of the Palatinate; but his request was answered with a petition for an enquiry into the grievances of the nation ; and instead of granting the sums required, they employed their time in dis putations and disagreeable complaints. To Charles those objections did not apply, which had always been opposed to the pecuniary demands of the late Monarch. It could not be said of him that he had wantonly plunged himself into debt, or that he had squandered among his minions the revenues of the Crown. The money which he solicited was required to carry into execution the vote of the last Parliament ; and those who advised the war, could not reasonably refuse the funds necessary for the maintenance of that war. In the House of Peers many of the Lords, though not formaUy opposed to the » Battie Fields' of Yorkshii-e. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 218 Court, looked with an evil eye on the ascendency of George ViUiers, Duke of Buckingham, and they were ready to vote for any measure, which, by em barrassing the Government, might precipitate the fall of the favourite. In the Commons the Puritans formed a most powerful phalanx. Austere to themselves, intolerant to others, they sought to reform both church and state, according to their peculiar notions of scriptural doctrine and scriptural prac tice. The spirit of liberty, too, had been diffusing itself widely amongst the people, who, by consequence, were determined to oppose the ancient, and, in many instances, exorbitant claims of their Monarchs; and the principles of freedom, which they had been imbibing, would no longer allow them to be governed by precedents that had their origin in the times of ignorance and slavery. Such was the state and temper of the public mind when Charles met his first Parliament ; which assembly he thought proper to dissolve as soon as he discovered their intention of refusing his just demands. He then issued a Commission to raise money by borrowing of such per sons as were able to lend ; and privy seals were issued out to all persons of substance. The Commissioners (who were noblemen) appointed to coUect the loan, visited the various towns in the Kingdom, and at the town halls, or other public buildings of each place, called the opulent inhabitants before them, and read the commission to them, setting forth the reasons which the King alleged for requiring the loan. The Commissioners then took the names of the parties, with the amount of their subscription, or sum imposed upon them, together with the names of those who exhibited a disposition to excuse the payment of the sums imposed. In many places the loan was reluctantly complied with, and occasioned considerable disgust, for though the proceeding was authorized by many precedents, it was not less a griev ance. At that period the payment of all fees and salaries was suspended ; and to such a state of destitution was the royal household reduced, that, to procure provisions for his table, the King was obUged to borrow £3,000. of the Corporations of Salisbury and Southampton, on the joint security of the Lord Treasurer and of the ChanceUor of the Exchequer.* The second ParUament met, and was dissolved by the King, without granting the necessary supplies to carry on a war which was entered into by the advice, and at the request, of those very members who now refused to contribute to its proper support. The King was therefore again obliged to have recourse to loans ; and a Commission was granted to the Archbishop of York, and others, to compound with the Catholics, and agree to dispense • Eushworth, vol. i, pp. 196, 197, Eymer, xviii., p. 181, Sydney Papers, iii,, 368, 214 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. with the penal laws enacted against them, for stipulated sums of money.* At that time the Corporations of the maritime towns received orders to pro vide a certain number of armed vessels, in order to equip a fleet. Many of the seaports complied with this request with great reluctance ; and the fleet thus coUected, and which consisted of about 100 ships, having on board 7,000 soldiers, saUed from Portsmouth on the 7th of June, 1627. But instead of being sent against the King of Spain, to the surprise of almost all his subjects, the King now resolving with a rupture with France, sent the fleet, under the command of the Duke of Buckingham, on a fruitless expedition for the relief of La Rochelle, a maritime town in that Kingdom. In the third year of this reign, the Lord Lieutenants of all the counties of England had orders to put each province and district into a posture of defence ; also to be careful that the trained bands (a species of militia) were perfectly instructed in the use of arms; and to see that all able men, from sixteen to sixty years of age, were enrolled, that on any sudden occasion, such levies might be made of them as should be required. They were likewise to take special care that every county provided its share of powder, ball, match, lead, &c., and to put them into magazines for the use of their respective counties and Corporations, to be ready whenever they were called for. Soon after this the King and the Lords of his Privy Council received in telligence that the French were fitting out a great fleet, with which to invade England, and that the Dunkirkers were likewise making extraordinary pre parations. Orders were now sent to the inhabitants of the different towns in the country, to put them into a proper state of defence, with aU possible dispatch. The Duke of Buckingham, who had all along ruled the King's Councils, was about this time stabbed at Portsmouth, by John Felton, a lieu tenant in the army, who immediately declared himself the murderer, and averred that he considered the Duke an enemy to his country, and, as such deserving to suffer. A tax, caUed tonnage and poundage, was now levied by the King, on aU merchant ships and goods, without the consent of Parliament, as a right belonging to the Crown. In London, where the spirit of resistance had already risen to a considerable height, many of the merchants refused to pay this tax, alleging that it could only be granted by the Parliament. For per sisting in this refusal, some merchants had their goods seized by the officers of the King's customs, and were themselves thrown into prison. The contest between privilege and prerogative was now carried on with great acrimony * Whitelock, p, 7, GENERAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. 215 The ParUament, on its being assembled, warmly remonstrated against the King's proceedings, and voted the foUowing protestation : — That whosoever should bring in innovation of reUgion, popery, or arminianism, and any that should advise the taking of tonnage and poundage, not granted by ParUament, or that should pay the same, shaU be accounted enemies to the Kingdom. This protestation was made on the last day of their sitting, and whUst it was being voted the door of the House of Commons was locked, and the Speaker was forcibly held in his chair. During this extraordinary pro ceeding the King had come to the upper house, and sent for the sergeant-at- arms, who was not permitted to obey ; he then ordered the usher of the black rod to deliver a message from his own mouth ; and that officer having been refused permission to enter the House of Commons, was commanded by the King to break open the door ; but at that very moment the Commons adjourned to the 10th of March. The King, incensed at these proceedings, ordered the arrest of several of the most violent of the opposition members, and dissolved the Parliament without sending for the Commons. The opponents of the King now charged him, his ministers, and judges, with a design to trample under foot tho liberties of the people ; and Charles was firmly con vinced that they had conspired to despoil him of the rightful prerogatives of the Crown. The Parliament had disobeyed, thwarted, and insulted him repeatedly, so he resolved to govern for the future without the intervention of the ParUament. And this intention he announced by proclamation. "We have showed," he said, "by our frequent meeting our people, our love to the use of Parliaments ; yet the late abuse having for the present driven us unwiUingly out of that course, we shall account it presumption for any to prescribe any time unto us for Parliaments, the caUing, continuing, and dissolving of which is always in our power, and shall be more inclinable to meet in ParUament again, when our people shall see more clearly into our interests and actions."* This measure served only to aggravate the discon tents of the people, who justly considered many of his actions as the exertions of arbitrary power. In 1630 the King sent forth a proclamation against vile insinuations, and lying, treasonable and rebeUious reports, industriously spread to render his government odious to his people ; and some time after he sent orders to the towns that the inhabitants should have a watchful eye over all factious per sons, and take care of the safety of their towns. Both Charles and Laud, his adviser, had been accused by the Puritans of harbouring a secret design * Eymer, xix,, p. 62. 218 GENERAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. to restore the ancient creed and worship ; but the charge was groundless. Those who made it in their intolerant zeal, mistook moderation for apostacy. But Charles conceived it expedient to silence the murmurs of his enemies ; so he carefully excluded aU English Catholics from the Queen's Chapel at Somerset House ; he offered in successive proclamations a reward of £100. for the apprehension of Dr. Smith, the Catholic Bishop ; and he repeatedly ordered the Magistrates, Judges, and Bishops to enforce the penal laws against the priests and Jesuits. In the early part of the year 163'3, Charles, in imitation of his father, resolved to visit his native country ; more especiaUy as some of his Scotch subjects had intimated that he thought their Crown not worth a journey ; and as he had some reason to be apprehensive of secret designs amongst them. He was accompanied by a gaUant train of English noblemen ; and in his progress to the north he visited York, and there received a loyal and cordial welcome. He was met on the 24th of May, on Tadeaster Bridge, by the Sheriffs, with 120 attendants, who conducted him to the City. At Micklegate Bar the Lord Mayor, Recorder, and Aldermen, standing on a platform erected for that purpose, saluted him at his entrance, and the Lord Mayor, on his knees, at the same time delivered up the keys of the City, together with the sword and mace. These, however, vrere immediately returned, and the Lord Mayor, mounted on horseback, carried the mace before his Majesty; the Aldermen, richly dressed, and well mounted, made up the cavalcade, riding before the King to the Manor House, or Palace. The next day the King dined with the Lord Mayor, at his house in the Pavement, and knighted him,* and the Recorder.f The following day he dined with the Archbishop, and knighted his son ; and on the fourth day he departed for Scotland. During his stay at York, a large silver cup and cover, and a purse, containing £100., were presented to liim. At Edinburgh he was solemnly crowned, with every appearance of affection and duty ; and in a ParUament then held, though the Scotch strenuously defended the liberties of the Kirk, yet they voted a supply to Charles, who, after a stay of five weeks in Scotland, returned to the Queen, who then resided at Greenwich. During this tour Charles visited Pontefract, where "he created Sir John Saville, knt.. High Steward of the Honour of Pontefract ; and by letters patent elevated him to the Peerage, by the title of Baron Savile, of Pontefract. His son was created Earl of Sussex, but the family became extinct in his grandson James. During the six years which followed his return from Scotland, England • Sir WilUam AUenson. -^ Sir WUUam BeU. GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIRE. 217 appeared to enjoy a calm. Charles governed without a Parliament; and not only took no pains to allay, but he rather inflamed that feverish irritation which the illegality of his past conduct had excited in the minds of his sub jects. Nor was he ignorant of their dissatisfaction; no, he saw it, and despised it ; and believing firmly in the divine right of Kings, he doubted not that he would be able to bear down the force of public opinion by the mere weight of the royal prerogative. About the year 1635, the coasts of England were very much infested by pirates from different parts, including the Dunkirkers, and some even from Salee and Algiers, who, every summer, committed great depredations, seizing ships, carrying off prisoners, and injuring the trade of the nation. The Dutch and French mariners, too, had assumed a right to fish on our coasts, a proceeding which occasioned much controversy. Chaiies determined to fit out a fleet, and end the dispute by force, and for this purpose, and acting on the advice of his Attorney-General Noy, he imposed a tax upon his subjects, under the denomination of Ship-money. Though all the judges declared this tax to be customary and legal, yet the nation murmured at it, and paid it with reluctance, considering it Ulegal, because it had not the sanction of Parliament. This was the tax that first roused the whole Kingdom, and determined numbers to fix the bounds, both of the King's prerogative, and their own freedom ; and in reality was one of the chief causes of the King's ruin. Aided with this tax, however, Charles fitted out a fleet of forty saU of ships, under the command of the Earl of Lindsey, and a squadron of twenty ships, under the Earl of Essex. This fleet very effectuaUy scoured the narrow seas, and protected the trade of England ; and the merchants, whose commercial interests had of late so greatly suffered, submitted to pay the tax which they disliked. In 1639 the Scotch were in arms against their Sovereign. They had in that Kingdom long embraced the Presbyterian form of church government, and though Bishops were stiU continued, yet they were treated with very little respect or attention. James I. had used his utmost endeavours to im pose Bishops upon the Scots, but died before he could carry that design into actual execution ; and Charles, in an unfortunate hour, resolved to complete what his father had begun. Whitlocke teUs us, that this iU-judged attempt to force the rites and liturgy of the Church of England upon that people, " was the fountain from whence our ensuing troubles sprung.'' The Scots now entered into their celebrated League and Covenant, the great object of which was to suppress episcopacy, and, if necessary, to resist the King's au thority in imposing it. Charles, lopking uppn this procedure as an open 2 P 218 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. declaration of war, immediately levied an army of 22,000 men, and marched on an expedition against the insurgents. He left London on the 27th, and arrived at York on the 30th of March, 1639, and there he was received with every demonstration of loyalty. He was met at Tadeaster Bridge by the Sheriffs, who conducted him to Micklegate Bar, where the trained bands of the City and Ainsty, clothed in buff coats, scarlet breeches, laced with silver, russet boots, black caps and feathers, and amounting to about six hundred in number, were drawn up and fired a voUey at his entrance into the City. Here he was received by the Lprd Mayor and Aldermen with the usual so lemnity, and the Recorder, on his knees, having delivered one of those fulsome flattering orations so peculiar to that age, his Majesty was conducted with great pomp through the City to the Palace of the Manor. On the following day (Sunday) the trained bands formed a lane, rank and file, for the King to pass through as he went to the Cathedral ; and their appearance and conduct so gratified him, that he distributed a sum of money amongst them, and also returned them his thanks in person. York and its vicinity being the principal rendezvous for the. royal army, the King spent nearly a month in that City. " He went to York," says Guizot, in his History of the English Revolution, " surrounded with extraor dinary pomp, stUl infatuated with the irresistible ascendency of royal majesty, and flattering himself that to display it would suffice to make the rebels return to their duty. The Lords, and a crowd of gentlemen, flocked to York as to a festival. The town and camp presented the appearance of a Court and tournament, not at all that of an enemy and of war. Charles's vanity was delighted with such display." During this visit the King kept the festival of Maunday Thursday (the Thursday before Easter) in the Cathedral, when the Bishop of Ely washed the right feet of thirty-nine poor aged men, in warm water, and dried them with a linen cloth. Afterwards the Bishop of Winchester washed them over again in white wine, wiped and kissed them. This part of the ceremony was performed in the south aisle of the Minster. His Majesty then gave to each of the poor men several articles of wearing apparel, including shoes and stockings ; also a wooden scale full of claret wine, a joie of salt fish, and a sixpenny loaf of bread. He likewise gave them a leathern purse each, con taining twenty shiUings in money, and in another thirty-nine silver pennies, being the number of his own years. On the following day (Good Friday), Drake teUs us, that he touched for the King's evil no fewer than two hundred persons in the Minster ; and, " during the tyme the King touched those that had the disease called the evil," writes that historian, " were read GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. 219 these words, ' They shall lay their hands upon the sick and they shall re cover ;' and during the tyme the King put about every one of their necks an angel of gold, with a white ribbon, were read these words, ' That light was the true light which lighteneth every man which cometh into the world.' "* On Easter Monday the King ordered seventy pounds to be given to each of the four wards of the City, to be distributed amongst poor widows ; and on the two foUowing days he touched, each day, one hundred persons for the evil, but with what success the historian Yery discreetiy chooses not to disclose. WhUst at York Charles paid a visit to HuU, where he was received with the greatest demonstrations of loyalty and joy. The Mayor, Aldermen, and Recorder met him at Beverley Gate, and went through great formalities, the gentry and principal inhabitants being splendidly arrayed in their best attire. All exhibited the greatest marks of joy and sincere affection at that very gate where he afterwards met with a reception of very different nature. Mr. Thorpe, the Recorder (afterwards a Judge, and very inimical to the King), as the organ of the Corporation, addressed him in one of those hyper bolical and adulatory speeches which bodies corporate are so prone to offer to Majesty. He told him that the town of Kingston-upon-HuU was always faithful and true, and that in respect of the zealous and loyal affections of the people, it was " not only waUed, but also garrisoned with fire ; not dead, nor sleeping ; not unanimated, like senseless flints, but continuaUy vivacious, waking, ardent, apparent, and sensible in their courageous and boiUng heat for his Majesty's long life, weKare, and happiness ; so that as the town was not only his by name but also by nature, so it should ever remain to be." After reminding him that he had there a magazine of aU military pro visions of his own royal coUecting, he was told by the Recorder that he had at Hull, " a richer, a more noble, and safe prize, even a magazine of hearts, faithful and true, extending the whole town over, which renders it stronger for his Majesty's service, than ifit was encompassed with walls of brass and iron." This fulsome address, in which the King was also told that it was more difficult to address him than to address the King of Kings, concluded thus : — "May your Majesty live for ever and ever, and may aU the thorns in your travels grow up into crowns; may your baffles be always crowned with laurels ; and may good success always attend your actions and desires. May years be added unto your days, and length of time, tiU time shaU be no more ; and that your continuance amongst us may be stiU an ornament and blessing Drake's Eboracum, c, v,, p. 137, S20 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE, to the present age, and an eternal admiration, blessing, and glory, to all that are yet to come." This bombastic speech being ended, the Mayor welcomed his Majesty to his " royal town of HuU," and with much ceremony deUvered up to the King that emblem of royalty, the mace, together with the sword and the keys of the town gates, aU of which were, of course, returned with a suitably reply. The Mayor then presented hini with a rich and elegant ribbon, several yards long, saying, " Vouchsafe, great Sir, to accept the emblematic bond of our obedience, which is tied as fast to your Majesty, your crown, amd the church, as our sonls are to our bodies, and we are resolved never to part from the former until we part from the latter." The King ordered the ribbon to be tied in a knot, and he afterwards wore it in his hat, caUing it his " Hull Favour." A purse of curious workmanship, containing one hundred guineas, was also presented to his Majesty. The Mayor then on horseback, carrying the mace on his shoulder, escorted the King and his numerous retinue to the quarters prepared for them, amidst the loud acclamations of the people, the soldiery, and the trained bands, with which the streets were Uned. The King was sumptuously entertained, and lodged that night at the house of Sir John Lister (now WUberforce House, High Street), and in the morning he took an accurate survey of the fortifications of the town, and the defensive works which were then going forward. That night his Majesty lodged at Beverley, and the next day he reached York. Before he left the latter City, he and his whole Court dined with the Lord Mayor, on whom, together with the Recorder, he conferred the honour of Knighthood. Having spent nearly a month at York, Charles, and his nobles, at the head of the army, proceeded against the Scots. Had the King at this juncture exerted himself -with vigour and decision against the malcontents, his anny being superior to theirs, it is probable that he might have prevented many of his succeeding misfortunes ; but instead of fighting, he unwisely entered on a treaty at Berwick ; and terms were agreed on, which neither side cared much to preserve. The Covenanters swore obedience to him, but the very next year, when the King had disbanded his forces, they raised the standard of rebelUon, entered England under the command of General LesUe (created afterwards Eail of Leven), aud the Marquis of Montrose, and proceeding to the borders of Yorkshire, they levied a weekly contribution of £6,600. upon the inhabitants of the northern counties, and threatened soon to occupy the City of York. To arrest the progress of the invaders, the King came in three days from London to York, where he was again received with the usual gifts, speeches, GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. 921 and ceremonies, and on the 7th of September (1640), he issued out writs to summon aU the peers of the realm to a great Council to be held at York. The royal army, commanded by Sir Jacob Astley, and consisting of about 12,000 foot and 3,000 horse, arrived on the same day that the writs were issued ; and being divided into divisions, one body was encamped in Clifton Fields and the other in Bishop Fields, on each side of the Ouse, and a bridge of boats was thrown over the river. About fifty pieces of cannon, with 132 waggons loaded with powder and ball, together with several carriages filled with pick axes, spades, shovels, &c., were brought at the same time from the magazines at Hull. This proceeding naturaUy spread an alarm through the country, that the King intended to lay aside one of the three estates of the realm, and to govern the nation without a House of Commons. The King's position at this juncture was exceedingly unpleasant and critical. Twice had the Commons refused to grant him supplies to carry out his wars. Twice had he abruptly dissolved that assembly, measures which greatiy in creased the discontent of the people. Ship money and some other arbitrary taxes had been exacted with severity, and many of his subjects made large advances to him from their private fortunes, and amongst this number was the celebrated Earl of Strafford, Lord Lieutenant of the North, who gave his Majesty £20,000. ; but these resources were stUl insufficient to carry on the war against the presumptuous Soots. Such was the distressed condition in - which Charles found himself when he returned to York and caUed a general CouncU of his nobles ; the nation was discontented, the army discouraged, the treasury exhausted, and every expedient for supply tried to the uttermost. On the 10th of September the King assembled the gentlemen of Yorkshire, and proposed their paying the trained bands for two months, to which they assented. Petitions now poured in upon his Majesty, beseeching him to summon a ParUament, and the gentry of this County pressed the measure upon him as the only means of restoring and ensuring a continuance of tranquiUity. On the 24th of the same month, the great assembly of Peers met at the Deanery in York, the hall of which "was richly hung with tapestry for the purpose, and the King's chair of state was placed upon the half pace of the stairs at the upper end of the haU."* In the opening speech the King announced his intention to call a ParUament in the course of the present year, and he asked council at the same time of the Peers, in what way to treat a petition for a redress of grievances which he had received from the Scotch invaders, and how his army should be kept on foot and main- • Drake's Eboracum, p. 140, 222 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. tained until the supplies from Parliament might be had for that purpose. During the sitting of the Council at York, which continued tiU the 18th of October, a negociation was entered into with the Scots, and Ripon was appointed as the place of conference. This negociation was conducted by sixteen EngUsh peers and eight Com missioners appointed by the Covenanters. Under the pretence that this conference would prevent them from seeking more abundant quarters, the Scots boldly demanded a monthly subsidy of £40,000. The EngUsh Com missioners seeing that the King must ultimately yield, concluded separate bargains — one with the gentiemen of the north, who, on the faith of a solemn promise that they should be reimbursed out of the first supply granted by Parliament, consented to raise the weekly sum of £5,600. by county rates on the inhabitants of the four northern counties ; and another with the Scots, who engaged as long as that subsidy were paid, to abstain from aU acts of hostUity, and from every species of compulsory demand. The treaty was immediately transferred to London, and the King and the Peers also hastened thither, that they might arrive in time for the opening of Parliament. At this juncture, when the accumulated evils of thirty years of misgovern ment brought the kingdom to the verge of a great revolution, Charles, on the 3rd of November, 1640, met that memorable assembly, which is called in history the Long Parliament, and which was speedily to contend with him for the sovereign authority. Its first acts were to oppose the King in the election of a speaker; to vote down the CouncU Court at York; and to present articles of impeachment against the President of that Court — the famous Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, and Archbishop Laud, the King's chief advisers ; and to pronounce the commissions for the levy of ship-money, and aU the proceedings consequent on those commissions, to be iUegal. The Scottish Commissioners were received by the opponents of the King as friends and deliverers; and most of the demands of the Covenanters were granted; and whUe the patriots in the House of Commons engaged to support the Scottish army during its stay, and to supply it with a handsome gratuity on its departure, the Covenanters stipulated to prolong the treaty, and to detain their forces in England tiU the reforms in church and state, projected by the Puritans, should be fuUy accomplished. It soon appeared that the Scottish Commissioners acted not only in a poUtical, but also in a reUgious character ; and whUe they openly negociated with the King, they were secrefly but actively intriguing with the Puritans, to procure in England the aboUtion of the episcopal, and the substitution of the Presbyterian form of Church government. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 223 The House of Commons not only refused to supply the King's necessities for the suppression of the insolence of his Scotch subjects, but it actually ap proved of the conduct of the rebels, and voted two sums, one of £125,000., for the charges of the Scottish army during five months, and another of £300,000., under the denomination of "a friendly relief for the losses and necessities of their brethren in Scotland."* "The government which, in the hands of Charles, had assumed the character of an absolute monarchy, soon became democratical to a degree incompatible with the spirit of the Constitution. Lieutenants and Deputy Lieutenants of Counties, who had exercised powers for the national defence, not authorized by statute, were declared delinquents. Sheriffs who had been employed to assess ship money, and the jurors and officers of the customs, who had been employed in levying tonnage and poundage, as well as the holders of monopolies by patents, were brought under the same vague charge, and the latter were expelled from Parliament. The judges who had given their votes against Hampden, in the trial of ship-money, were accused before the peers, and in a few weeks such a revolution was produced in the Govern ment by the House of Commons, seconded by the Peers, that the kingly power, which had been almost omnipotent, was in danger of being reduced to insignificance. These measures naturaUy placed the Parliament at issue with the King, and the differences between the conflicting authorities con tinued to increase during the years 1640 and 1641, tiU an open rupture became unavuidable."f In the year 1641 the King, accompamed by the Prince of Wales, after wards Charles TL. ; the Palsgrave of the Rhine ; the Duke of Lennox ; the Marquis of Hamilton; and several other noblemen, visited York on his way to Scotland, where he had summoned a Parliament on the 15th of July, in order to ascertain their dispositions towards him. On the day after his arrival at York, he dined with the Lord Mayor,]: and knighted both him and the Recorder.§ Conceiving that his person was in danger, the King de manded a guard from the freeholders of Yorkshire, for his protection, which was readily granted. The Commons had already stripped him of many of those prerogatives which he had oppressively exercised ; and the royal authority was so reduced, that its total abolition seemed inevitable. The King was even deprived of the power of appointing Governors, Generals, and, in short, whatever related • BaiUie, i., p. 240. -^ Baines's Gazetteer of Yorkshire. J Sir Christopher Croft, § Sir Eobert Berwick, 224 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE, to the army ; an'd that they might deprive him even of the shadow of his former authority, they demanded that the power of raising the militia, and the nomination- of its officers, might be vested in them. To this last de mand Charles gave a peremptory denial, and both parties from this time prepared for war. Amongst the extraordinary events which excited the pubUc mind at this period, was the commitment of twelve Bishops, The populace having be come infuriated against the bench of Bishops, frequentiy assailed them with abuse and menaces on their way to the House, On oue occasion the cries of vengeance in the Palace yard were so loud and alarming, that the prelates remained after the other lords, tUl the darkness of the night enabled them to steal away to their homes. The next day, WiUiams, Archbishop of York, prevaUed on eleven other prelates to join with him in a declaration, which was read in the Upper House, It stated that the Bishops could no longer, without danger to their Uves, attend to their duty in ParUament, and that they therefore protested against the vaUdity of any proceedings which might be passed during their absence. This protest was heard with surprise and indignation. To retire or remain was at their option, but to claim the power of suspending by their absence the proceedings of ParUament, was deemed an assumption of sovereign authority. The Lower House ridiculously impeached the twelve prelates with high treason, WiUiams boldly professed his readiness to meet the charge, but the others, intimidated by the violence of the times, apologised for their conduct. Ten were committed from the House to the Tower ; and two, the Bishops of Durham and Lichfield, on account of their age and infirmity, to the Usher of the black rod.* In the early part of the year 1642, the King gradually withdrew himself from the vicinity of the metropohs, first to Newmarket, then into the more northern counties, and on the 18th of March in the same year, he, with his son Prince Charles, his nephew the Prince Elector, and several noblemen, not without considerable risk, arrived in York, where most of the nobiUty and gentry of the north of England, and many from London and the southem parts of the Kingdom, came to testify their loyalty and offer him their ser vices. On this occasion Charles resided and held his Court at York for five months, and then, in the month of August foUowing, he and his partizans hurriedly left the City, and proceeded to raise his standard at Nottingham. During this stay at York, the state printing presses were erected in the house of Sir H. Jenkins, formerly St. WiUiam's CoUege, in the yard near the * Eushworth, iv., p. 466. Clarendon, i., p. 350. GENERAL HISTORY OP YOEKSHIEE. 225 Minster. Notwithstanding the loss of the Courts of Presidency, which the ParUament had lately abolished, York was now the resort of the nobiUty and gentry, and it derived no small degree of its lustre from being the asylum of the legitimate Sovereign. One of the principal objects of the King's journey to the north, according to Lord Clarendon, was to seize upon HuU, and to secure the vast magazine of that fortress, which consisted of all the arms and ammunition of the forces levied against the Scots, which far exceeded the collection of warlike stores in the Tower of London. With this view he sent the Earl of Newcastle to Hull to take possession of the town in his Majesty's name, but the authorities declined to receive the Earl. The two Houses of Parliament seemed to have penetrated into the King's design, for as soon as it was known that he was actually gone to York, they began to apprehend the town of Hull would be in danger, and therefore Sir Jphn Hotham, the Governor, received the strictest orders not to allow foreign ships to enter the port without strict ex amination into their strength, burden, &c. ; and to see that no English or other forces whatever should enter the town, but those already appointed to be the garrison there. The 28rd of April, 1642, is a memorable period not only in the annals of Yorkshire, but in the history of the Kingdom, as on that day the ParUamen- tarian party committed the first act of open hostUity towards their Sovereign — an act which preluded that great civil war, which for the space of four years desolated England, and brought her Monarch to the block. Early in the morning of that day, the King, attended by his son Prince Charles, and about three hundred of his servants, as weU as a great number of the County gentlemen, set out from York to HuU, and when he was within about four miles of that place, he despatched an officer (Sir Lewis Davis) to inform the Governor that he intended that day to dine with him. On receipt of this unexpected message. Sir John Hotham consulted with Mr. Pelham, the M.P. for HuU, and others of his friends, and the result of their conference was a fixed determination not to suffer the King to enter the town. They there fore sent a messenger " humbly to beseech his Majesty to decUne his intended visit, since the Governor could not, without betraying the trust committed to him, set open the gates to so great a train as he was at present attended . with." The King incensed at this message continued to advance, and Sir John ordered the bridges to be drawn up, the gates to be closed, the soldiers to stand to their arms on the walls, the cannons to be charged, and the in habitants to be confined to their houses tiU sunset. About eleven o'clock the King arrived at the Beverley Gate, and surprised to find aU things in 2 G . 236 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. readiness for the reception of an enemy, called for the Governor, who ap pearing on the walls, he commanded him, on his allegiance, to open the gate, and admit his Sovereign. But the Governor, with many professions of duty and several expressions of fear, told his Majesty " that he durst not open the gates to him, being entrusted by the ParUament with the safety of the town." The King told him, " that he believed he had no order from the ParUament to shut the gates against him, or to keep him out of the town;" to which he replied, " that his Majesty's train was so great, that if it were admitted he should not be able to give a good account of his trust to those that employed him." Charles then proposed to enter with twenty of his attendants only, and that the rest should stay without the gates, but this proposal was refused. The King then desired him " to come out of the gates that he might confer more particularly with him, and assured him, on his royal word, of safety and liberty to return," but this request also the Governor refused to comply with ; whereupon his Majesty, in a spirited remonstrance, told him that for this gross act of disobedience, which was likely to cause much bloodshed and many calamities, he would immediately proclaim him a traitor, and proceed against him as such. Sir John, then faUing upon his knees, talked confu sedly of the trust he had received from the Parliament, and prayed " that God would bring confusion upon him and his,. if he were not a faithful and loyal subject ;'' but in conclusion he plainly denied his Majesty admission into the town. The King continued before the gate till four o'clock, and having given Sir John one hour to take his final resolution, his Majesty returned to the gate, and receiving the same answer as before, he ordered two heralds at arms to proclaim the Governor a traitor, and aU those who obeyed him guilty of high treason. Here was a change indeed ! Three years since, the people of HuU were frantic with joy at the sight of their " royal master." The EngUsh language was found almost inadequate to the supply of words neces sary for the formation of the fulsome compliments with which he was then greeted. Now he stood a suppliant before that same gate at which he then so proudly received the "Hull favour," and he craved admittance into his " royal town" in vain ! Charles, being thus repulsed, lodged that night at Beverley, and the next morning he sent a herald to Sir John, summoning him once more to open the gates on pain of being proclaimed a traitor, but the herald, like his royal master, proved unsuccessful, and the King, fiUed with mortification and disappointment, was obliged to return to York. Highly incensed at the affront put upon him, Charles immediately sent an express with a message to both Houses of Parliament, explanatory of his motives for going to Hull, and demanding justice against the Governor of GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 227 that place for his treasonable refusal to obey the royal commands ; but in stead of punishing that officer, or replying to the King's complaint. Parlia ment bestowed npon him and his supporters a vote of thanks ; and passed a resolution to the effect, that as Sir John Hotham had done nothing but in obedience to the commands of the Houses of Lords and Commons, that the King's declaring him a traitor — being a member of the Lower House — was a high breach of the privilege of ParUament ; and without due process of law was against the liberty of the subject and the law of the land. The Parlia ment then ordered two ships of war immediately to HuU, under the command of the Earl of Warwick ; and a Committee of both Houses was sent into the north, to .take care of those parts, and of HuU ; and in particular to thank Sir John Hotham, the commanders and soldiers under him, together with such of the inhabitants as had shown a favourable disposition to the cause in whioh they were engaged ; and to assure them that particular care should be taken to reward them according to their deserts.* On the 28th of April the King sent from York to both Houses of Parlia ment another message, demanding satisfaction against the Governor of Hull, and on the 6th of May a reply to his two messages was read in the House, and afterwards deUvered to his Majesty with great formality. In this reply the Parliament attributed its conduct towards the King, to the influence, which they affected to fear, the wicked councils of " some in near trust and authority about him," would have upon his Majesty. They charged the King's friends, which they termed the malignant party, with drawing him into places of strength, remote from his Parliament ; with exciting the people to commotions, under pretence of serving his Majesty against his ParUament ; and they told the King that, " lest this malignant party, by the advantage of the town and magazine of Hull, should be able to go through with their mis chievous intentions," that they commanded the town of Hull to be secured by a garrison, under the government of Sir John Hotham, requiring him to keep the same for the service of his Majesty and his Kingdom. Upon these grounds they justified Sir Jehn Hotham 's refusal to admit his Majesty, and declared him clear of the odious crime of treason. The garrison of HuU was then much augmented, so that there was little ground for hope that the King could obtain possession of it; indeed the probability was greater that Sir John Hotham should take York, than his Majesty could recover HuU. Charles therefore, resolved to put himself in a posture of defence. In order to do this, he summoned the gentry of Yorkshire to meet him at York, and to • ParUamentary History, vol. x., p. 461, 228 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. them he declared his apprehension of danger, and his wish to have a guard for his person, " but of such persons, and with such circumstances, as should administer no occasion of jealousy to the most suspicious; and wished the gentlemen of quality who attended, to consider and advise of the way." A guard of honour of two hundred gentlemen was immediately formed, under the command of the Prince of Wales, whose LieuteuantColonel was Sir Francis Wortley. His Majesty had also a regiment of six hundred foot of the trained bands, commanded by Sir Robert Strickland. The ParUament then declared " that the King was levying forces to subdue them," and fears and jealousies were instiUed into the minds of the people, by means of various pamphlets, which were dispersed throughout the Kingdom. One of them, pubUshed by the authority of Pariiament had this singular title — "Horrible news from York, HuU, and Newcastle, concerning the King's Majesty's intent to take up arms against the Parliament; with his Majesty's threatenings to imprison the Lord Fairfax, Sir PhUip Stapleton, and the rest of the Committee appointed by the Parliament to sit at York ; and the joint vote of both Houses concerning the same." Another pamphlet was styled — " More news from Hull ; or a most happy and fortunate preven tion of a most helUsh and devUlish plot, occasioned by some unquiet and discontented spirits against the town of HuU, endeavouring to command their admittance by casting baUs of wUd fire into the town, which by policy and treaty they could not retain." Amongst the curious reports fabricated about this time, and industriously circulated, to inspire terror and keep the town of HuU in a constant state of alarm, was, that Lord Dunbar kept a great num ber of horses and armed men in spacious vaults under the ground, in order to surprise the town at night ; that a Lincolnshire gentlemen, of the name of Terwhit, was ready to assist them, with three hundred men in complete steel armour ; and that the Spaniards were expected, with a fleet, to their assistance. This extraordinary report furnished grounds for considerably increasing the garrison, and parties were sent out to plunder the Royalists, under pretence of searching for arms and getting inteUigence. The ParUa ment determined to remove the magazine from the town of HuU to the Tower of London, and a warrant was sent down to Sir John Hotham to dehver it to the Admiral, the Earl of Warwick, for that purpose; but the captains of the ships in the port received a command from the King at York, directing them, "on their allegiance not to put on board any part of the magazine, &c. ;" consequently the miUtary stores were not then removed. The King finding that the Parliament openly supported Sir John Hotham ; and not being in a position to take Hull by a regular assault, for want of GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. 229 artillery, arms, and ammunition, attempted to gain possession of the town by a speedier and more easy way-^by private application to some of the officers who had command in the town. In execution of this design he made use of Mr. Beckwith, of Beverley. That gentleman sent a letter to his son-in-law, an officer, named Fowkes, who was Lieutenant to Captain Lowenger, a Dutchman, then in command under Sir John Hotham at HuU, requesting him to come to Beverley, as he had something of concern to advise him about. Fowkes handed this letter to Mr. Robert Stockdale, secretary to Sir John, begging him to shew it to that officer, and to request permission for him to attend to the invitation contained therein, and promising at the same time to give a particular account of what had passed. Sir John readily granted what was desired, and on the Lieutenant's return from Beverley, he stated to him that in Mr. Beckwith's parlour he was introduced to fourteen or fifteen gentlemen, who proposed to him to conspire with his Captain to deUver up HuU to the King, by secretly opening the gates at some convenient time to be fixed upon ; and promised that his Captain should have £1,000. per annum settled on him and his heirs for ever, and £1,000. in ready money; and that £500. per annum should be settled upon him (Fowkes) and his heirs, and £500. in money. The Lieutenant seemed to comply with their request ; and it was arranged that he should correspond with Mr. Beckwith. With many thanks and promises of great reward for his fidelity to the Parliament, Sir John ordered him to proceed in the plan ; and he drew up a letter, which was transcribed by Fowkes, addressed to Beckwith, the purport of which was, " that he found his Captain very compilable, and should give them advice as they proceeded, how the business might best be accompUshed." Several letters then passed, to humour the design tUl the Govemor thought fit to bring the affair to an issue, and this was done by a letter written as usual, by Sir John, and tran scribed by Fowkes, to this effect : — That on Tuesday next his Captain would command the main guard, and he the north gate, his Majesty would that afternoon send from York 1,000 horse, and 500 foot to be mounted behind the horsemen for the sake of expedition, and that they should be at HuU at two o'clock in the morning. They were, moreover, with a small party to give the alarm at Myton-gate, and with the main body to advance to the North gate, where he would give them entrance, so that they might march to the main guard, which Captain Lowenger would deUver into their hands, and thus the town become theirs without hazard. On this proposal being agreed to by Mr. Beckwith, the Governor called a councU of war, and opened the whole matter to them. Most of the members who comppsed this cpuncil 230 GENERAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. were for permitting the King's forces to enter the town, and then to cut them to pieces, but Sir John would not agree to this bloody proposal, humanely remarking " that he would never wantonly shed blood when it was in his power to save it." At one o'clock on Monday night, Sir John dispatched his secretary with a letter to the King at York, informing him of the discovery of the design, and also intimating that " he might spare himself the trouble of carrying on the contrivance." Parliament now passed a vote of thanks to Sir John Hotham, and declared Beckwith a delinquent, and guilty of a crime little less than high treason. Accordingly an officer was despatched who seized him at York, but he was immediately rescued by the King's directions, his Majesty at the same time observing, " that when the Parlia ment gave him justice against Sir John Hotham, he would deliver Beckwith up to them." Clarendon observes, " that it was thought very ridiculous to standers by, that Sir John Hotham should be justified for keeping the town against the King, and another genfleman be voted a delinquent for designing to recover it to its allegiance. The ParUament then published a very voluminous remonstrance — " a kind of war with the pen, which preceded that of the sword," addressed to the people at large; which, aooording to Clarendon, wrought more upon the minds of men than all the Parliament had before done ; and notwithstanding the King's prohibition to the contrary, and without the least regard paid to his remonstrances and complaints, the magazine at HuU was conveyed to London, and deposited in the Tower. In a few days after the publication of the above remonstrance, Charles issued a lengthy reply. Messages, remon- stances, and declarations between the King and the Parliament, were now frequent; and so conscious was Charles that he had a decided superiority, that he dispersed everywhere the papers of the Parliament together with his own, that the people might be more enabled by comparison to form a proper judgment between them ; whilst, on the other hand, the Parliament, while they distributed copies of their own, were anxious to suppress the King's compositions. In a long answer to one of the last declarations of ParUament, the King reproached the two Houses for their iUegal proceedings against him. He said that the keeping him out of HuU by Sir John Hotham, was an act of high treason ; and that taking away his magazine and ammunition from that place, contrary to his express command, was an act of violence against him ; and, in both cases, he told them that by the help of God and law he would have justice, or lose his life in requiring it. He maintained that the miUtary stores at HuU were his private property, he had bought them with berrowed GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIRE. 231 money previously to the Scottish invasion ; that the town was his, for it had belonged to the Crown, and was still held by royal charter; and that the fortress was his, because to him belonged all the fortresses within the King dom. But it was idle to talk of legal rights at a time when few, if any, hopes of peace were entertained ; when a real though disguised war was already raging between the parties ; and when each side was endeavouring to throw on the other the odium of commencing a civil war. The King, who remained at York, employed himself with great activity in rousing his adherents to arms. Numbers of the .nobility, gentry, and clergy, with the members of both Universities, lent him money ; and the Queen departed the Kingdom, and sold the Crown jewels in Holland to purchase a cargo of ammunition. The whole Kingdom was now thrown into confusion. In every shire, almost in every township, were persons raising men at the same time for the opposite parties. In the southern counties the interest of the Parliament was generaUy predominant ; but the King, however, mustered an army of about 4,000 troops, of which about 3,000 were foot, and 1,000 horse. Negociations stiU proceeded. There were many at York, and in the Parliament, who stiU laboured hard to effect an accommodation — for though the King's unhappy predilection for arbitrary power, had raised him a host of enemies ; his moral virtues had procured him a great body of zealous sup porters. The ParUament, in answer to the King's demand for a reply to certain proposals, which he had made at the commencement of the year, presented for his acceptance nineteen articles, in which the privileges of the Parliament so far outweighed the prerogatives of the Crown, that they were deemed whoUy inadmissible : — Should I grant these demands, said the King, in reply, I may be waited on bare-headed ; I may have my hand kissed ; the title of Majesty may be continued to me ; and the King's authority signified by both Houses, may stiU be the style of your commands ; I may have swords and maces carried before me; and please myself with the signs of a crown and a sceptre ; but as to true and real power, I should remain but the out side, but the picture, but the sign of a King.* Shortly after Charles took up his residence at York, the ParUament ap pointed a Commission to reside in that City, to strengthen their party and to watch the movements of the King ; and on their passing an ordinance for embodying the mUitia, the King ordered his friends to meet him at York, whither he directed the several Courts to be in future Esdjourned. The Lord- Keeper Littleton being ordered by the ParUament not to issue the writs ¦• Eushworth, iv., pp. 732, 735. Clarendon, i.. 634, 647. 232 GENERAL HISTOEY OP YORKSHIRE. made his escape to York, and bringing with him that important mark of sovereignty, the great seal, he joined the royal party, for which he was after wards proclaimed by the Parliament a traitor and a felon. On the 27th of May, 1642, Charles issued a proclamation, dated from his Court at York, appointing a public meeting of the nobility and gentry of the neighbourhood, to be held on Heworth Moor, on the 3rd of June. At this meeting, at which 70,000 persons were present (40,000 according to Guizot), the King, who was accompanied by his son Prince Charles, and 160 Knights in complete armour, and attended with a guard of 800 soldiers, was received with the loudest acclamations of loyalty and respect. In a short address he thanked the meeting for the assurances of loyalty and attachment which he had re ceived, and explained the particulars of the situation in which he was placed . Every attempt at negociation having failed, he had resolved, he said, to support his authority by arms. His towns, his ships, his arms, his money, were -taken from him, but there still remained to him a good cause, and the hearts of his loyal subjects, which, with God's blessing, he doubted not would recover aU the rest. Having constituted Sir John Glemham Governor of York, and appointed the Earl of Cumberland supreme commander of his forces, he removed his Court to Beverley, with a view of preparing for an attack upon the fortress of HuU. But after an abortive attempt to get pos session of that place, he returned to York. Hostilities soon after commenced with the siege of Portsmouth. Colonel Goring, the Governor of that place, an officer of distinguished merit, having refused to act on the side of the ParUament, a strong force, under the com mand of the Parliamentary General, the Earl of Essex, appeared before the town and besieged it. The King immediately proclaimed that general and the officers under him traitors, unless they should return to their duty within the space of six days ; the Parliament on their part declared the royal pro clamation a libellous and scandalous paper, and retorted the crime of treason on all those by whom it had been advised, and by whom it should be after wards countenanced.* In these circumstances Charles summoned all his loviug subjects north of the Trent, and within twenty miles to the south of that river, to meet him in arms at Nottingham, and on the 22nd, or according to some the 25th of August (1642), the royal standard floated from Nottingham Castle. On the standard was painted a hand pointing to a crown, with this motto, " Give to Csesar his due." It was carried by a guard of 600 foot, from the Castle into a large field ; the King following » Eushworth, vi., pp. 761, 773. Clarendon, i., 711, 715. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 233 with a retinue of 2,000 men ; and the people crowded around to hear the proclamation read by the herald-at-arms. This ceremony, called the raising of the standard, was deemed equivalent to a declaration of hostilities. From Nottingham Charles dispatched to the Pariiament, the Earl of Southampton, Sir John Colepepper, and Sir WilUam Uvedale, with some fresh propositions to incline them to a treaty, but in vain ; and after a few more messages and answers all hopes of peace entirely vanished, and the nation saw itself involved in aU the horrors of intestine war, the most direful of national calamities. The reader of English history is aware that at this stage of the controversy between the King and his opponents, the real Uberties of the people could no longer be regarded as the cause of quarrel. These liberties had already been estabUshed by successive acts of the legislature. The dispute was now con flned to certain concessions, which the Parliament demanded as essential to the preservation of those Uberties, and which the King refused as subversive of the royal authority. The Parliament now possessed the control of the public money, the power of impeachment, and the right of meeting every third year ; and these powers, it was contended by some, formed a sufficient barrier against the encroachments on the part of the Sovereign ; but others insisted that the command of the army, and the appointment of the officers of state, the councillors, and the judges, ought also to be transferred, for a time at least, to the two Houses. Who then were the authors of the civil war ? is a question that is often asked. That learned and impartial historian. Dr. Lingard, says, in reply to this question, " The answer seems to depend on the solution of this other question — were additional securities necessary for the preservation of the national rights ? If they were, the blame wiU belong to Charles ; if not, it must rest with his adversaries." That there were faults on both sides seems unquestionable ; and it is to be especially lamented that the good sense of the Monarch had not taught him to go along with the general feeUngs of his people ; but Princes in all ages, as Dr. Lingard truly remarks, have been slow to learn the important lesson, that the influence of authority must ultimately bend to the influence of opinion. " In most of the conflicts which have divided nations against them selves," says a distinguished writer, " one side or other has been so wicked, or both so worthless, or the points at issue so personal and valueless, that the recital of their progress and results, merely amuses by variety of incident, or disgusts by sameness of depravity ; but in the principles and fortunes of the CavaUers and Roundheads, we stiU experience a real and vital concern. The warriath of passipns, though abated, is not extinguished ; we feel as if our -2 H 234 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. own liberty, our own aUegiance, our own honour and reUgion were involved in the dispute." The long and fruitless altercations being at an end, and war being inevi table, the ParUament placed the command of the militia, and authority to raise forces in every County, in such hands as they esteemed trustworthy. Each army in its composition resembled the other. The command of the Royalists was entrusted to the Earl of Lindsey ; and that of the ParUamen tary forces, as we have seen, to the Earl of Essex. In the mean time. Sir WiUiam Waller had reduced Portsmouth, while Essex concentrated his force, amounting to 16,000 mon, in the vicinity of Northampton. The first pitched battle between the adherents of the King and the ParUa ment was fought on the plain of Kineton, near Edge-hill, in Warwickshire, on Sunday, the 23rd of October, 1642, when both armies claimed the honour, but neither reaped the benefit of victory. Among the distinguished persons who took part in that bloody conflict, were the King, Prince Rupert, the Earls of Lindsey and -Essex; Lords Saye, Digby, Roberts, Carnarvon, Brooks, Byron, Wharton, Wilmot, MandevUle, Fielding, WiUoughby, Goring, &c. ; Sirs W. Fairfax, John Meldrum, PhiUp Stapleton, James Ramsay, W. Bal four, Jacob Astley, Edward Verney, George Lisle, WiUiam Constable, &c. ; Hampden, HoUes, BaUard, Grantham, and, according to some writers, Oliver Cromwell. The Earl of Lindsey was slain, fighting on foot at the head of his men. This brave old General's prayer, before the advance to the conflict, is said to have been as follows : — " 0 Lord, thou knowest how busy I must be this day, ; if I forget thee, do not thou forget me. March on boys ! " Essex withdrew to Warwick, and thence to Coventry ; and Charles, having compeUed the garrison of Banbury to surrender, marched onwards to the City of Oxford. Our Umits will not admit of even a passing notice of the battles -which took place in several of the southem counties ; we must therefore confine our remarks to the proceedings which occurred in the district to which this work is devoted. Alas ! that the fair plains of this fine County should be again the scene of bloody strife between Englishmen only ; that her fertile fields should be once more deluged with the blood of thousands of its best nobles and hardiest sons. The majority of the northern nobles were attached to the King's party, and probably Ferdinando, Lord Fairfax, was the most powerful adherent of the ParUament in those parts.* Accordingly, he received their commission * Sir Thomas Fairfax, of Denton (father of Lord Ferdinando Fairfax), was created Lord Fairfax in 1627. GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 235 (still running in the King's name) to be General of the forces in the north, and his son. Sir Thomas, was appointed General of horse under him. Sir Thomas Fairfax, who appears to have been endowed with a never-tiring zeal for the cause in whioh he was engaged, performed his first exploit in the autumn of 1642, by driving a small detachment of Royalists from Bradford to Leeds, whither, in conjunction with Captain Hotham, he marched a few days after, and compelled the enemy to retire upon York. The great strength of the Parliamentarians lay in the large manufacturing towns of the West Riding, and the chief supplies of their army were drawn from that district ; and that army having increased, 1,000 men were marched to Tadeaster and Wetherby to guard the passes of the Wharfe, and thus protect the friendly districts of the west. The Earl of Newcastle, who had raised a considerable force in the north, for the protection of the northern counties, now marched to the assistance of the loyal party, and on the 30th of November he arrived at York with 6,000 men and ten pieces of artillery. The Earl of Cumberland then resigned his commission to Newcastle, who, after having stayed only three days in York to refresh his troops, marched out with 4,000 men and seven pieces of cannon, to attack the enemy at Tadeaster, where Lord Fairfax was posted with 700 troops.* At the same time the Earl sent his Lieutenant-General, the Earl of Newport, with 2,000 men, to attack Wetherby. At Tadeaster the battie was contested with equal obstinacy, but with -much less bloodshed, than the memorable one fought near the same place, between the fierce adherents of the rival houses of York and Lancaster. (See page 155.) The action took place on the 3rd of December, 1642. The town being untenable, the Par liamentarians resolved to draw out, and select a post of more advantage ; but before they could do so, the King's forces attacked a position above the bridge, in which was a smaU body of foot to cover the retreat, in so brisk a manner, that the whole force drew back to maintain that ground. The Earl began his attack about eleven o'clock in the forenoon, and the fighting continued tiU dusk without intermission, during which time 40,000 musket shots were discharged, besides the fire from the artiUery; but the slaughter bore no proportion to the shot expended ; as the number kUled on both sides did not exceed 300. The disparity of numbers caused Lord Fairfax to draw off his forces to Selby and Cawood in the night, and the foUowing moming the RoyaUsts marched into Tadeaster without opposition. The only person of note who feU in this battle was Captain Lister, who was shot by a bullet in * Memoirs of Sir Thomas Fairfax. 236 GENERAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. the head.* He was a valuable officer, and a great loss to his party. The garrison of Wetherby consisted of 300 foot and 40 horse, commanded by Sir Thomas Fairfax ; and this smaU force was surprised early one morning by a body of 800 men, under Sir Thomas Glemham. Under the cover of darkness and the woods around, the RoyaUsts arrived close to the town without giving any alarm, untU they were ready to enter. The guards were found sleeping at their post, " for," says Sir Thomas, " at the beginning of the war men were as impatient of duty as they were ignorant of it." The General however was awake, and,- with the assistance of a few men, held the enemy at bay tiU more of the guards were got to arms. A smart engage ment then ensued, in which the assaUants were repulsed. The attack was soon renewed, but in the midst of the conflict Fairfax's magazine was blown up, and produced so tremendous an explosion, that the Royalists beUeving that the enemy had cannon, began to retreat and retired towards York, and were pursued by Sir Thomas with his smaU body of horse, who took some prisoners. Sir Thomas Glemham returned to his garrison at York. In this engagement Major Carr of the RoyaUsts, and Captain Atkinson and a few of the ParUamentarians were slain. Seven men were blown up by the pow der explosion. The Earl of Newport, on arriving at Wetherby, found no enemy to contend with. Sir Thomas Fairfax having previously joined his father at Tadeaster. In the beginning of the year 1643, Leeds, Wakefield, Halifax, Skipton, Knaresborough, and several other towns and garrisons against the King, were reduced to his Majesty's subjection, by the valorous conduct of the Lord General (the Earl of Newcastie). Bradford stood two vigorous sieges, but surrendered when the ammunition of the fortress was exhausted. Then, but not tiU then, did Sir Thomas Fairfax, who conducted the defence, offer to capitulate ; but Newcastie having refused to grant the conditions. Sir Thomas, with fifty mounted troopers, cut his way through the Unes of the Royalists, and made his retreat, but his wife and most of the soldiers were taken prisoners.! * Thoresby, in his Ducatus, mentions the foUowing instance of fiUal affection re lating to the death of this gentleman : — Some years after the battie, the Captain's son was passing through Tadeaster, and finding the sexton digging in the choir, enquired where his father, Captain Lister, was buried. To which the sexton repUed by showing him a scuU just dug up, which he averred was the head of the Captain. On examining the scuU, a buUet was found lodged in it, and this testimony to the truth of the grave- digger's words, so struck the young man, that he sickened at the sight, and died soon after. + Lady Fairfax was shortiy after sent back to her husband, by the Marquis of New- eastie, in his own coach. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. 237 By the various chances of war, several of these towns were lost and won again, sometimes by one party, sometimes by another, so that in spite of every precaution, Yorkshire was for some years a scene of bloodshed and misery. It was chiefly owing to the indefatigable exertions of the Queen (Henrietta Maria, daughter of Henry IV. of France) that Charles had been enabled to meet his opponents in the field. When the King left the south, in the spring of 1642, her Majesty departed for Holland, where she pledged her own and the Crown jewels, for the purpose of procuring arms and ammunition for her husband's adherents. During her residence in Holland she had repeatedly sent the King supplies of military stores, and, what he equally wanted, of veteran officers to train and discipline his forces. The Queen having embarked at SchuUing, near the Hague, under convoy of seven Dutch ships of war, commanded by Admiral Van Tromp, arrived at Bridlington Bay on the 20th of February, 1643, and after remaining at anchor three days, the squadron entered the harbour. Her Majesty brought with her thirty pieces of brass and two of iron ordnance, with smaU arms for the equipment of 10,000 men ; and though four of the Parliament's ships had been cruising, with a view to intercept her, yet she was so fortunate as to effect a landing whUst the enemy's ships were riding at anchor off Newcastle. Batten, the Parliament's Vice-Admiral, having notice of her Majesty's arri val, immediately weighed anchor, but did not gain the bay until the night after the Dutch vessels had entered the port. Chagrined at his disappoint ment, he drew his vessels directiy opposite to the quay, and, on the moming of the 24th, commenced a heavy cannonade, in hope of firing the ammunition vessels, and the house in which the Queen was lodged. Some of the baUs actuaUy penetrated the room in which her Majesty reposed, and compelled her, with the Duchess of Richmond, and the other ladies of her retinue, to leave their beds, and, according to some authorities, " barefoot and bareleg," seek for safety beneath the precipitous bank of the stream now known as Bessingby Beck, which empties itself into the harbour. No action of the war was more bitterly condemned by the gallantry of the Cavaliers, than this unmanly attack on a defenceless women, the wife of the Sovereign. In order to secure the Queen from any further indignity, Lieut.- Gen. King erected a battery on each side of the port, but the danger and insult not having been repeated, the utility of the works were happily never proved. In expectation of the Queen's arrival, the Earl of Newcastle had drawn a part of his army in that direction, in order to protect her ; and im mediately upon her arrival, she was waited upon by the Marqhis of Montrose, 238 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. and Lord Ogilby with two troops of horse. Sir Marmaduke Langdale, Sir John Ramsden, and others of the King's friends. After remaining at Bridlington for about nine days, the Queen was safely conducted to York. She slept at North Burton on the first night, at Malton the second night and arrived in York on the 8th of March, with three coaches, and an escort of eight troops of horse and fifteen companies of foot. The military stores were conveyed from Bridlington en route to York, in a long train of 500 carts and 1,000 horses. For his attention to the Queen on this occasion, as weU as for his devotion to the cause of the King, the Lord General, as the Earl of Newcastle was called, was created a Marquis. When the Queen arrived at York) the King was staying at Oxford, and to pursue her journey thither at that time, would be to_ throw herself into the hands of her opponents. She accordingly remained in Yorkshire, winning the hearts of the inhabitants by her affability, and quickening their loyalty by her words and example. She afterwards marched without opposition to Oxford, bringing to her husband, who met her at Edge-hUl, a powerful reinforcement of men, artiUery, and stores. In Yorkshire several important military events took place in the course of the year 1643. The Earl, now Marquis of Newcastie, made a kind of tri umphal march through the County. He took Bradford and retook Wakefield for the King. Rotherham was in possession of the enemy, and refusing to yield, he commenced an attack upon it, and took it by storm. Sheffield too, which had previously been taken possession of for the Parliament, by Sir John GeU, was re-captured by him, and he defeated Lord Fairfax at Atherton or Adderton Moor. He then recovered Gainsborough, in Lincolnshire, from the army under CromweU ; and intended to proceed southward, but, we are told by Lingard, his followers refused to accompany him any further in that direction. They had, he says, been embodied for the defence of the northern counties, and could not be induced to extend the Umits of that ser vice for which they had been originally enrolled. Plad they advanced and joined the King's army in the south, in all probability an end would have been put at once to the war, by the reduction of London ; but in consequence of their refusal to march southward, the King was deprived of one half of his expected force, and was compeUed to adopt a new plan of operations. In the north, success and defeat appeared to alternate between the con tending parties, and no decisive advantage had as yet been gained by either ; yet, on the whole, the balance of victory seemed to incline in the King's favour. The siege, or properly speaking the second siege, of HuU took place in the GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 239 latter end of this year. The Marquis of Newcastie commenced operations before the town on the 2nd of September, and after prosecuting the siege with great vigour, almost every day being marked by some active operation, he was obUged to abandon the town on the 11th of October — aU his efforts to carry it being unavailing. From the commencement of the difference between the King and the Par liament, a thorough understanding existed betvireen the chief of the Scottish Covenanters, and the principal of the EngUsh Reformers. Their views were simUar, their object the same. The Scots had indeed fought and won, but they held the fruit of their victory by a doubtful tenure, as long as the fate of their "English brethren" depended on the uncertain chances of war. Both policy and reUgion prompted them to interfere ; the triumph of the ParUament would secure their liberties. The Parliamentarians first invited them to interpose their mediation, which they knew would be so little favour able to the King ; then Commissioners were sent to Edinburgh with ample powers to treat of a union and confederacy with the Scottish nation ; and a League and Covenant was framed, in which the subscribers engaged mutually to defend each other against all opponents. This formidable union stnick alarm into the breasts of the Royalists. They had found it difficult to maintain their ground against the ParUament alone ; they felt unequal to the contest with a new and powerful enemy. By means of £100,000., which they received from England, the Scottish levies were soon completed ; and in the early part of the year 1644, an army of 20,000 men, under the command of their old General, the Earl of Leven, crossed the Tweed at Berwick, and attempted to surprise the town of New castle before it could be put in a posture of defence. But in this they were disappointed, for the Lord General had arrived at that fortress the day before it was summoned by Leven ; and the Scots, leaving six regiments before the place, crossed the Tyne, and entered Sunderland on the 4th of March. The Royalists, to the number of 14,000, hovered upon their march.* Yorkshire being left with but 3,000 or 4,000 men for its protection, the Parliament ordered Sir Thomas Fairfax, with Lord Fairfax his father, to attack this small force, whioh was commanded by Colonel Bellasis, the son of Lord Falconberg. The two parties encountered each other at Selby on the 11th of April, and in the action the RoyaUsts were entirely defeated. The Parliamentarians had their army in three divisions ; the first was led by Lord Fairfax, the second by Sir John Meldrum, and the third by Colonel Bright. * Eushworth, vol. v., p. 606. 240 GENEEAL HIST-OEY OF YOEKSHIEE. The cavalry was commanded by Sir Thomas Fairfax. After some hard fighting, the Royalists (who had possession of the town) were beaten from their defences, and Sir Thomas, having forced open a barricade, obtained an entrance between the houses and the river," where he met with a body of the enemy's horse, which he charged and routed, when they fled across the river by a bridge of boats towards York. Another body of horse quickly charged Sir Thomas's party, and after a desperate struggle, the RoyaUsts were beaten back, and Colonel Bellasis taken prisoner. The main body of ParUamen tarians now entered the town, and the greatest part of the King's forces were either slain or taken prisoners. This victory made the ParUament masters of the midland parts of Yorkshire. The inhabitants of York, hearing of the capture of Selby, were in great fear and consternation, and implored the Marquis of Newcastle, who had been keeping the Scots at bay, to march speedily to their assistance, or their important City would be lost to the royal cause. The Marquis at once fell back to, its reUef ; and the Scots having joined the forces of Lord Fairfax at Wetherby, the united army marched to York, and commenced the siege or blockade of that City, on the 19th of April, 1644. The combined forces of the Parliament and the Scottish General being quite inadequate for the siege of this well-fortified and strongly-manned City, a deputation, composed of the Earls of Crawford and Lindsey, and Sir Thomas Fairfax, was sent to the Earl of Manchester, desiring his co-opera tion, to which he willingly consented. Previous to the arrival of Manchester the besiegers numbered 16,000 foot and 4,000 horse — a force not sufficiently numerous to invest the place ; but that General brought with him an army of 6,000 foot and 3,000 horse, of which last the famous Oliver CromweU was Lieutenant-General ; and three sides of the , City were completely in vested, the north side remaining open. The besieging force had now three Generals, Manchester, Leven, and Fairfax, who occupied different positions around the walls ; Manchester's division, with twelve pieces of cannon, took a position near Bootham Bar, towards Clifton, and the siege was soon vigor-. ously prosecuted. Several batteries were opened against the City, and es pecial mention may be made of those on the rising grounds caUed Ganvw and Lamel Mill Hill, out of Walmgate Bar, where four pieces of cannon played almost incessantly on the Tower, Castie, and town ; while the gar rison and armed citizens, from their different platforms, kept up a heavy fire on the works of the besiegers. There were also batteries on the Bootham side. The Earl of Manchester made an attack near Walmgate Bar, and took possession of the Church of St. Nicholas, but was soon obUged to retire ; GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 241 the Scots seized, near Micklegate Bar, a convoy of cattle, which was about to enter the City ; and many smart skirmishes took place, through the ex ertions of the besiegers to preserve the houses in the suburbs for their own convenience (the inhabitants having withdrawn within the walls), which the besieged set fire to. For some time the work of destruction was carried on " with great gallantry and spirit," and with varied success. Charles, who was at that time in the south, at the head of an inferior force, endeavouring, by some skilful ma noeuvres, to escape from the two divisions of the Parliamentarian army, urider Essex and Waller, saw with dismay the danger which threatened him in the north. The fall of York would most certainly deprive him of the northern counties, and the subsequent junction of the besieging army with his oppo nents in the south, would constitute a force against which it would be useless to struggle. His only resource was in the courage and activity of his nephew. Prince Rupert,* who had recently driven the Parliamentarians from before Newark, and reduced Stockport, Bolton, and Liverpool. He therefore ordered that commander to collect all the force in his power, to hasten into Yorkshire to fight the enemy, and to keep in mind that two things were necessary for the preservation of the Crown, both the relief of the City of York, and the defeat of the combined army. On the receipt of the royal command, Rupert took with him a portion of his own men, some regiments lately arrived from Ireland, and reinforcements joined him on his march. Newcastle, who was in daily expectation of the arrival of Rupert, had recourse to a ruse to gain time. That wily General endeavoured, by a pretended treaty with the besiegers, to direct their attention from further attacks. A cessation was agreed upon, Commissioners met, and after a week's deliberation, hostilities recommenced on the 15th of May. The besiegers renewed their assaults On the City with redoubled vigour. The Earl of Manchester's forces undermined St Mary's Tower at the north-east corner of the Manor; and Colonel Craw ford, a Scotchman, sprung the mine, which demolished the Tower, and buried a great many persons in the ruins. He then with his cannon made a breach in the wall lower down in Marygate, and having entered, many of the soldiers scaled two or three walls, and took possession of the Manor. This occurred on Trinity Sunday, when most of the officers were at the Cathedral ; but the alarm given by the explosion of the mine, caused them to run from the church to their posts. A party of the garrison, too, issued out by a private sally-port, entered the Manor House, and cut off the retreat * Prince Eupert was a younger son of Frederick, Prince Palatine of the Ehine, by the Princess EUzabeth, sister of King Charles I. of England. 2 I 242 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. of the enemy. A smart conflict ensued, in which about fifty of the Parlia mentarians were kiUed, and 250 made prisoners. Sir PhUip Byron, Colonel Huddlestone, and Mr. Samuel Breary, were slain on the side of the garrison. The latter gentleman was Captain of a company of volunteer citizens, and son of one of the Aldermen. On the 24th of June, a party of the garrison, consisting of about 600 men, saUied out from Monk Bar, and furiously as saulted the Earl of Manchester's quarters ; but they were soon driven back with considerable loss. The siege still continued with all possible vigour, an almost incessant fire was continued day and night, both by the besiegers and the besieged ; and so loyal were the people of York to their Sovereign, we are told by Drake, that the women assumed a masculine courage, and, despising fatigue and danger, contributed much to the defence of the City. The supply of fresh provisions having been cut off by a line of circumvalla tion drawn round the City, the prices were excessively high before the end of the siege. Mutton sold for 16s. a quarter; beef, at 4s. per stone; pork, at 7s. ; bacon, at 4s. ; eggs, at 3d. each ; fresh butter, at 2s. 8d. per pound ; and oatmeal, 2s. 8d. per peck. But the magazine was weU stored with salt provisions, grain, aud liquors. On the evening of the 30th of June, the besiegers to their surprise and consternation, received intelligence that Prince Rupert, with an army of 20,000 men* was advancing to the relief of the place, and would quarter that night at Knaresborough and Boroughbridge, within eighteen miles of York. Conscious of their inability to contend with him in that situation, the Par liament's leaders held a Council of War, at which it was resolved to raise the siege. Accordingly, on the 1st of July they drew off from their entrench ments, and marched to Hessay Moor, about seven miles west of York, and there the army was drawn up in order of battle, expecting the Prince would make that his way to the City. But his Highness, aware of the movement, avoided the conflict by an exertion of great military skill. He caused only a party of horse to face the enemy at Skip-Bridge, where they might secure their retreat over the Ouse at Nun-Monkton; and interposed the Ouse be tween the enemy and the main body of his army. The latter spent that night on the north side of the river, in the Forest of Galtres, near Poppleton ferry; whilst the Prince, with about two hundred horse, rode on to York, where his arrival produced the greatest demonstrations of joy. A CouncU of War was immediately held — and here we would pause to remark — that had the Prince not beeu too precipitate, he might not only have relieved the City, * Eushworth, vol. v., p. 631. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 243 but he might have established the royal cause on a basis too strong for re bellion to shake. In the Council the Marquis of Newcastle gave it as his decided opinion, that it was inexpedient at that moment to hazard an en gagement with the enemy ; especially as in two days he expected Colonel Clavering, with a reinforcement of 3,000 men from the north, and 2,000 drawn out of several garrisons. Besides, he added, that he had certain in telligence that dissension prevailed amongst the Parliamentarian Generals, and that they were about to separate.* The Marquis proved correct in his remarks, but the daring and impetuous Prince, whose subsequent rashness was the cause of so many misfortunes to the Monarch, and whose martial ardour was not sufficiently tempered with prudence, stated that he had received positive orders from the King, then at Oxford, to bring the enemy to immediate action.f Accordingly, Rupert, with his forces, marched out of York on the following day, the 2nd of July, and his van came up with the enemy just as they had broken up with the intention of proceeding to Tadcaster.| Rupert is said by some to have passed a part of his army over the Ouse at Poppleton, by means of a bridge of boats made by the Scots,§ and to have entered with his whole army into Hessay Moor, which the ParUamentarians had hardly quitted. He, however, pur- * Mem. Sir T. Fairfax. Newcastle's Life, by the Duchess. -^ The foUowing extract from the letter of the King, and which Eupert would seem to have regarded as containing an imperative command to fight the enemy at York, cer tainly exculpates the latter from the charge usuaUy brought against him, of fighting without orders : — " But now I must give you the true state of my affairs, whioh, if their condition be such as enforces me to give you more peremptory commands than I would wiUingly do, you must not take it iU. If York be lost, I shall esteem my crown Uttie else, unless unsupported by your sudden march to me, and a miraculous conquest in the south, before the effects of the northern power be found here ; but if York be relieved, and you beat the rebels' armies of both kingdoms, which are before it, then, but other wise not, I may possibly make a shift upon the defensive to spin out time, untU you come to assist me. Wherefore I command and conjure you, by the duty aud affection whioh I know you bear me, that, aU new enterprises laid aside, you immediately march, according to your first intention, with all your force to the reUef of York ; but if that be either lost, or have freed themselves from the besiegers, or that for want of powder, you cannot undertake that work, that you immediately march with your whole strength to Worcester, to assist me and my army, without which, or your having relieved York, by beating the Soots, aU the successes you can afterwards have, most infalUbly wiU be use. less unto me. — Evelyn's Memoirs, vol. v.. Octavo edition, p. 121. \ Sir Thomas Fairfax says, " we were divided in our opinions what to do ; the EngUsh were for fighting, the Scots for retreating, to gain, as they alleged, both time and place of more advantage ; this being resolved upon, we marched away towards Tadeaster." § Others assert that the army crossed the ferry, which at the time was fordable. 244 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. sued them with such rapidity, that his vanguard almost overtook their rear near the village of Long Marston. Both parties soon began to draw up in order of battle; the Prince possessing himself of the principal part of the Moor, the Parliamentarians were obliged to range their forces in a large fleld of rye, at the end of the viUage of Marston, fronting the Moor. This being a rising ground, Rupert sent a party to dislodge them, but the RoyaUsts, were driven back, and that corn-field remained in the possession of the enemy. Both armies, in accordance with the mUitary tactics of the age, were drawn up in line, the infantry in three divisions, with strong bodies of cavalry on each flank. The King's forces amounted to 14,000 foot, 9,000 horse, and twenty-five pieces of ordnance; and the number on the other side is variously estimated. Some writers state that it was nearly equal in number to the Royalist army. Sir Thomas Fairfax says that its number was somewhat greater than that of the King's forces ; whilst others tell us that it reckoned 40,000 soldiers. There was this peculiarity in the arrange ment of the ParUamentarians, that in each division the English and the Scots were intermixed, to preclude aU occasion of jealousy and dispute. The right wing of the ParUament 's army was placed near Marston town end, having the village on their right, fronting the east ; and as their horse and foot came up, they formed their battalia aud left wing, endeavouring to gain as much to the left as they could ; so that at last their lines extended from Marston to Tockwith, and, as has been intimated, fronted the Moor. The position chosen by the ParUamentarians v?as an advantageous one. On the right, the viUage of Marston secured them against being outflanked on that side ; extending westward, the array passed across Marston field, a large enclosure cultivated in common, where many of the farmers held pieces of land, at that time bearing a crop of rye, which would then be nearly ready for the harvest. This ground is considerably elevated above the Moor, to which it slopes gently down, but so easily, that a horseman might gaUop up or down without any inconvenience. Close to the village of Marston, a place is shown where it is said that the hedges were cut down to make a way for the Parliamentarian army to pass, and this spot is now caUed " CromweU's Gap." A little further west from Marston, where the land has its highest eleva tion, is the spot where tradition points out the position held by CromweU ; a clump of trees stood there some time since, now aU felled but one, which has been left (though dead) to point out the station of the grim Ironsides. The position more to the left, towards the viUage of Tockwith, being nearly level, presented fewer points of advantage, and this latter place secured the left GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. - 245 flank from being turned. The troops, standing with their backs to the south, would have an extensive view of the country to the north and east, over the level plain and rural viUages of the Ainsty, to the towers and walls of York. The right wing of the Parliamentarian army consisted of the Yorkshire horse (but newly raised), commanded by Sir Thomas Fairfax, a man of known valour and resolution ; three regiments of Scottish horse, commanded_^by the Earl of Dalhousie, the Earl of Eglinton, and Lord Balgony, forming his re serve. Next to them was a body of infantry consisting of Lord Fairfax's foot, aud two' brigades of the Scottish horse for a reserve. The main body, con sisting chiefly of musketeers and pikemen, was commanded by the three Generals, Lord Fairfax, and the Earls of Manchester and Leven. The left wing was composed of the whole of Manchester's cavalry, under the command of Lieut.-Gen. Cromwell, among whom were his tried and trusty Ironsides (a- name first bestowed upon them in this battle), with three regiments of Scot tish horse, commanded by Major Gen. Lesley ; and upon their left, near a cross ditch, where the Royalists had a regiment of foot, were the Berwickshire dragoons under Colonel FrizeU. This wing extended to the village of Tock with, and the whole army was drawn up in large bodies weU supported by artillery. The field word of the Parliamentarian troops was " God with us." Previous to the attack they were heard singing psalms. The King's army was drawn up in a line opposite, on the open moor, partly protected by broken ground, ditches, and furze bushes. The left wing, fronting the position of Sir Thomas Fairfax, was led by Prince Rupert in person.* The right, opposed to Cromwell, was led by Sir Charles Lucas and Col. Hurry ; the main body by the Generals Goring, Porter, and Tilliard. It is not certain what particular charge the Marquis of Newcastle had this day, though it is certain he was engaged very valiantly in the battle. Some writers state that he had no command, but acted merely as a volunteer, with many more gentiemen equaUy disgusted with Rupert's haughty conduct. The field word of the RoyaUsts was " God and the King." " When both armies were completely drawn up, it was after five in the evening, and nearly another hour and a half passed with little more than a few cannon shots. Newcastle considered all was over for that day, and had retired to his carriage to prepare himself for rest for whatever might betide on the morrow. Even Rupert and Cromwell are believed to have expected that their armies would pass the night on the field. It was a bright summer ¦? Some writers assert that the left wing was led by the Marquis of Kewoastie, whUst the right wing was commanded by Prince Eupert. 246 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. evening, and the calm beauty of the heavens above left Ught enough stiU for the work of destruction to proceed, and that mighty host, 46,000 men, — children of one race, subjects of one King, — to mingle in bloody strife, and lay thousands at rest, ' to sleep the sleep that knows no waking,' that lovely night of June, on Long Marston Moor. It has been surmised, with consi derable probability, that a stray cannon shot, which proved fatal to young Walton, OUver CromweU's nephew, by rousing in him every slumbering feeling of wrath and indignation, mainly contributed to bring on the general engagement. Certain it is, that he was the first to lead his men on to the attack. It was within a quarter to seven on that calm evening, when the vast array that spread along the wide area of Marston Moor began to be stirred by rapid movements to the front. Along a considerable part of the •ground that lay immediately between the advanced posts of the Parliamentary forces and the Royalist army, there ran a broad and deep ditch, which served to protect either party from sudden surprise. Towards this, a body of Crom weU's cavalry was seen to move rapidly from the rear, followed by a part of the infantry. Prince Rupert met this promptly by bringing up a body of musketeers, who opened upon them a murderous fire as they formed in front of the ditch, which protected Rupert's musketeers from the cavalry, while a range of batteries, advantageously planted on a height to the rear, kept up an incessant cannonading on the whole line."*' " Suddenly the left wing of the ParUamentarians was stirred by a rapid movement ;" says a recent writer, " had the eagle eye of CromweU seen the moment of advantage ? or, was it the death of his nephew, struck down by a cannot shot, that awakened his slumbering wrath, roused the lion spirit within him, and now hurried him to the combat, and with him the whole armv, for a single charge must inevitably bring on a general engagement His heavy armed curassiers were already chanting their vengeful psalm of battie, wlule their eyes were Ughted up with martial joy. Not one of them but carried a bible, as weU as a carbine, pistols, and a heavy broad sword, "f The smaU ditch, which lay between the contending armies, had an embank ment on one side of it ; and though they had drawn up within musket shot of one another, yet it must incommode the party that passed it, and lay them more open to their enemy. In the ditch the Royalist leader placed four brigades of their best musketeers, which at the first were gaUantiy assaulted by the enemy, and forced to give ground. The front divisions of horse mu tually charged, the respective opposite right and left wings meeting. Crom- • Wilson's Cromwell and the Protectorate, p. 96. + Battie Fields of Yorkshire. GENERAL HISTORY OP YORKSHIRE. 247 weU, with his trusty Ironsides, dashed off rapidly to the right, and clearing the ditch beyond the enemy's flank, he swept down upon their right wing with such irresistible force, that the cavalry, who were then under the com mand of General Goring, were completely broken soon after the first onset. For a short time the fighting here was truly terrific. Some of the King's bravest men attacked CromweU's troopers in front and flank, and every inch was disputed at the sword's point. For a while aU was close and deadly conflict; the cannon's roar, the clashing of arms, the ringing of pistol shots, the sound of trumpets, mingled with the yells, shouts, and cheers of the troops, making up a dreadful battle chorus. The Royalists fought bravely, rallying when broken, and again rushing to the charge. Goring and New castle exerted themselves Uke tried and trusty soldiers ; what generalship and personal courage could do, was done, and done in vain. The whole right wing of the King's army was dispersed ; and such of them as escaped the swords of CromweU's Ironsides, wheeled about, and fled to join the cavalry, under Prince Rupert's own command. The guns were sUenced, and the artillerymen fled, or were sabred at their posts ; while CromweU, recalling his men from the pursuit led them back in perfect order towards their first point of attack. But a different scene had been enacted meanwhile on the left wing. Prince Rupert, who commanded there in person, poured a tremendous fire into the right wing of the enemy, led by Sir Thomas Fairfax, and dashed in upon them with his usual impetuosity, and swept through their broken ranks with tremendous slaughter. Nevertheless Sir Thomas, with a body of four hundred horsemen, passed the ditch, and charged furiously upon the royal ranks, and after a dreadful struggle, cut his way through, despite all their efforts to hinder him ; the Royalists flying towards York, closely pursued to prevent their rallying. Rupert, seeing the disorder of that wing, dashed forward at the head of his men, driving, scattering, and destroying all before him. In vain the leaders struggled to stem the tide — on sped the Prince over the dying and the dead, pursuing the routed squadrons towards Tad- caster and Cawood. Instead of pursuing them with his whole strength, had Rupert merely ordered a detachment to keep them from rallying after they were pushed from the field, and fallen with the rest of his force upon the naked flank of the Parliamentarian foot, the victory might have been his own, and his rashness in fighting been justified by success. Thus one wing of eaoh army was routed, and the main bodies closely engaged in an even balanced and desperate stuggle, when CromweU, with his troopers flushed with victory, dashed impetuously upon the naked flank of the Royalist in- 248 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. fantry, overturning aU before them. It was at this time that the Marquis of Newcastle's own regiment —caUed "White Coats," from their clothing, con sisting of more than a thousand stout Northumbrians, being deserted by the horse, yet scorning either to fly or to ask quarter, were cut to pieces by the enemy, all bravely faUing in rank and file as they stood. This brigade, which was well armed and disciplined, strong and valiant, was commanded by a Scotchman named King, the Marquis's Lieutenant, a man of con siderable miUtary experience. The three Generals, Manchester, Leven, and Fairfax, appear to have cou- sidered the battie as lost, and were hastening out of the field, when the victory they despaired of unexpectedly fell into their hands. For General Porter, after having forced back part of the Parliamentarian foot, even beyond their first position ; and after three hours of hard fighting, and when he thought the success of the Prince was established, found himself attacked with greater fury than ever, and that unexpectedly in the rear. Here the order of the battle was completely reversed, each party occupying the ground held by the other at the beginning of the fight. Cromwell having rallied his men, ad vanced towards the centre of the action just as Rupert returned from his headlong and mad pursuit, at the head of his exulting cavalry, confident that the field was already won. But a short time was sufficient to convince him that his enemies were the victors ; for though the second battle was equally furious and desperate with the first, yet, after the utmost efforts of courage by both parties, victory wholly turned on the side of the Parliament ; for, hemmed in on nearly all sides, on difficult and broken ground, without hope of succour, and almost without means of retreat. Porter and his brave band surrendered themselves prisoners. Rupert's whole train of artillery was taken, and those RoyaUsts who had survived, and were not taken prisoners, were pursued to within a mile of the walls of York, by their relentiess ene mies, Rupert himself only escaping by the fleetness of his horse. Thus ended this sanguinary conflict between the most numerous armies that ever were engaged during the course of these unnatural wars. About ten o'clock the RoyaUsts had pursued the main part of the enemy from the scene of the battie ; but before midnight the best and bravest of the friends of royalty were lying dead on the field, or prisoners in the hands of the foe, or helpless and despairing fugitives on the roads to York and other places, pursued with great slaughter. The victory was complete. What a contrast between the going out and the return of the Royalist army. The number of the slain on both sides is said to be about 8,000, though authors vary much in this as in other particulars of the battle ; but the villagers, who were commanded to bury the GENERAL HISTORY OP YORKSHIRE. 249 dead, asserted that they interred only 4,150 bodies, two-thirds of whom appear to have been men of rank ; and their graves are yet to be seen near Wilstrop Wood, at the end of a long green lane, on the western side of the moor. This is supposed to be the place where Cromwell beat the Royalist's right wing, and afterwards mowed down Newcastle's valiant regiment, for they would probably bury them " where the battle's wreck lay thickest." Among the Royalists who feU were Sir William Wentworth ; Sir Francis Dacres ; Sir William Lambton ; Sir Charles Slingsby, Knight, who was in terred in the Cathedral; Colonel John Fenwick, whose remains could not be identified among the heaps of dead ; Sir Marmaduke Luddon ; Sir Thomas Metham; Sir Thomas Gledhill; Sir Richard Graham; and more than 4,000 others. Upwards of 1,500 were taken prisoners on that dreadful day, amongst whom were General Sir Charles Lucas, General Porter, General Tilliard, Lord Goring's son, and many more field officers. The Prince like wise lost besides his 25 pieces of artiUery, 130 barrels of gunpowder, 10,000 stand of arms, 47 colours, two waggons loaded with carbines and pistols, and aU his bag and baggage. The principal persons slain among the ParUamentarians were Charles, brother of Sir Thomas Fairfax, who was buried at Marston ; Major Fairfax, Captain Micklethwaite, and Captain Pugh. From the circumstance of the battle being at one time so much against them, they must undoubtedly have lost a number of adherents nearly equal to the vanquished ; but they them selves would not acknowledge the loss of more than three hundred subal terns and privates.* Prince Rupert, to whose want of sufficient coolness and prudence, the dis asters of this day were attributed, has been accused by some of wanting courage, a charge whioh by others is believed to be completely unfounded. Cromwell, too, is taxed with cowardice by HoUis, who says that he withdrew very soon from the fight, for a slight wound in the neck; but he is, however, by most writers considered the main instrument in gaining this important victory. It was late in the evening when the Royalists arrived at Micklegate Bar, and as none but the garrison were suffered to enter, many of the wounded, fainting under fatigue and anxiety, filled the air with sounds of distress, and the scene of confusion and misery that ensued, was beyond description.-l- This disastrous battle extinguished the power of the RoyaUsts in the * For this battle see Eushworth, v., 632. Clarendon, iv., 503. Thurloe i., 39. Whitelock, 89. t Hargrove's History of York, vol, i., pp. 169, 178. 2 K 250 GENERAL HISTORY OP YOEKSHIEE; I northern counties, and Opened an immediate way to CromweU's assumption of the vacant throne, when Charles fell a sacrifice "tP Violence and political rancour. Among the many battle fields of Yorkshire, at Marston Moor only was there any great principle depending on the issue. Iri the other batties the object had been to repel, perhaps a provoked invasion ; to crush a rebel lion of ambitious and discontented nobility; or oftener for a mere change of rulers. The people shed their blood for men from whom they could receive no benefit, and for objects in whioh they had no interest ; but at Marston Moor only the spirit of civil and religious freedom was manifested. There it was that King and people contended; the one for power unlimited and absolute; the other for justice and liberty-Oman's birthright. Liberty and privilege on the one side, and prerogative and despotic power on the other; were on -the field of Marston brought into open conflict and the sequel is weU known. The day after the battie the brave Marquis of Newcastle, and several of his friends, either despairing of the royal cause, or disgusted with the arro gant conduct of Prince Rupert resolved to quit the country, and immediately went to Scarborough, and thence embarked to Hamburg. Rupert himself drew his army from the City of York, and ha|tily retreated into Lancashire ; and thus were the affairs of the unfortunate Charles irretrievably ruined by the imperious and injudicious conduct of his froward kinsman. Had he left a sufficient garrison in York, it might be held out against the Parliament arians, as great dissensions prevailed among the leaders ; but encouraged by the inteUigence of the departure of the two royal commanders, and knowing that Sir Thomas Gletnham, the Governor, was left with only a very small garrison, and in a great measure defenceless, in consequence of the loss of artiUery at the late battle, the Parliament's Generals appeared before the walls, and renewed the siege. The Governor was summoned to surrender unconditionally — to whioh a negative answer was returned. However, thir teen days after the battle of Marston, and after a siege of nearly thirteen weeks, during which time the garrison had repulsed twenty-two attempts to carry the place by storm, arid four countermines; and between 4,000 and 6,000 of the enemy had perished before its walls, the Governor was reduced to the painful necessity of surrendering the City, on the following Conditions, which, owing to the existence of considerable dissensions amongst the forces of the Parliament, were extremely favourable. 1. That Sir Thomas Glemham, as Governor of the City of York, shaU surrender and deliver up the same, with the forts, tower, cannon, and ammu nition, and furniture of war belPngirig thereto, ori the 16th of July, 1644, at GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. 251 eleven o'clock in the forenoon, to the three Generals, or to whom they shall appoint, for the use of the King and Parliament, in the manner, and upon the conditions following : — 2. That aU the officers shall march out of the City with their arms, drums beating, colours flying, match lighted, bullet in mouth, bag and baggage. 3. That they shaU have a convoy, that no injury be done them in their march to Skipton. 4. That sick and maimed soldiers shall not be hindered from going, after their recoveries. 6. That soldiers' wives and children may have liberty to go to their hus bands and fathers, to their own homes and estates, and to enjoy them peaceably, under contribution. 6. That no soldier be enticed away. 7. That the citizens and inhabitants may enjoy aU their privileges, which formerly they did at the beginning of those troubles, and may have freedom of trade, both by sea and land, paying such duties and customs as aU other Cities under obedience of ParUament. 8. That if any garrison be placed in the City, two parts in three shall be Yorkshireman ; no free quarter shall be put upon any without his own con sent, and the armies shall not enter the City before the Governor and Lord Mayor be acquainted. 9. That in all charges the citizens, residents, and inhabitants, shall bear only such part with the County at large, as was formerly in aU other assess ments. 19. That aU citizens, gentlemen, residents, sojourners, and every other person within the City, shall, if they please, have free liberty to remove them selves, family, and goods, and to dispose thereof, and their estates, at their pleasure, according to the law of the land, either to live at their own homes or elsewhere; and to enjoy their goods and estates without molestation, and to have protection and safeguard for that purpose, so that they may rest quietly at their abodes, and travel safely and freely about their occasions ; and for their better removal, may have letters of safe conduct, and be fur nished with horses and carriages at reasonable rates. 11. That aU gentlemen, and others, that have goods within the City, and are absent themselves, may have free liberty to take, carry away, and dispose of them, as in the foregoing articles. 12. That neither churches nor other buildings shaU be defaced, nor any plunderings, nor taking of any man's person, nor any part of his estate, suffered; and that justice shaU be administered within the City, by the 252 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. magistrates, according to law, who shaU be assisted therein, if need require, by the garrison. 13. That all persons whose dwellings are in the City, though now absent, may enjoy the benefit of these articles, as if they were present. Signed, PEEDINAND FAIEPAX, "\ MANCHESTEE, ,„.„ „„„„'„„ THOMAS GLEMHAM, ADAM HEPBOENE, }¦ ' LORD HUMBEE, GOVEBNOB. WILLIAM CONSTABLE, ) The forces of the King, amounting to more than one thousand, besides sick and wounded, accordingly evacuated the City on the foUowing day, through Micklegate Bar, marching through the victorious army (which had been previously drawn up on eaoh side, without the Bar, and formed into a line of about a mile in extent), with arms in their hands, drums beating, colours flying, &c., towards Skipton. On their departure, the three success ful Generals, the Earls of Leven and Manchester, and Lord Fairfax, with their forces, entered the City in solemn procession, and went directly to the Cathedral, where they returned thanks to the Almighty for their success — prayer being offered up by the Earl of Leven's chaplain, a Presbyterian ; and the foUowing Thursday was appointed a day of general thanksgiving.* York suffered severely from this calamitous siege. Its walls were sadly shattered ; several houses were in ruins, and the suburbs completely destroyed. Lord Ferdinando Fairfax was now made Governor of York, and that City became the seat of a standing Committee, whereby the affairs of the whole County were conducted with almost absolute power. Lord Fairfax and his son. Sir Thomas, now sumamed the Hero of the Commonwealth, received commissions from the Parliament to reduce all the garrisons that stiU held out for the King in this County ; and Sir Thomas was soon after appointed Commander-in-Chief of aU the forces of the ParUament. The City waUs were put in a state of repair, and no time was lost in attempting to subdue the spirit of loyalty, which stiU existed in many of the fortresses of the County. Detachments of troops were sent to besiege them. The siege of Pontefract Castle commenced on Christmas day. Sir Thomas Fairfax having taken pos session of the town in the beginning of December.f On the 19th of January, T.645, after an incessant cannonade against the ramparts of the Castle, the Pix Tower gave way, and by its fall carried part of the walls along with it. The siege continued till the garrison was reduced to great distress for want • Hargrove's Hist. York, vol. i. p. 187. t 'Wliitelook, p. 102, GENERAL HISTORY OP YORKSHIRE. 253 of provisions. At this period. Sir Marmaduke Langdale, one of the RoyaUst Generals, making a rapid march, at the head of 2,000 horse, arrived at Pon tefract ; attacked the besiegers, who were commanded by Colonels Lambert and Forbes ; and after an obstinate engagement, the Parliamentarians retired in disorder to Ferrybridge, and from thence towards Sherburn and Tadeaster, closely pursued by the RoyaUsts. On General Langdale's departure, the ParUamentarian troops collected, and on the 21st of March, 1645, they took possession of the town, and again laid siege to the Castle. For four months the besieged gallantly withstood incessant cannonades, attacks, and sorties of the enemy ; but at length re duced to a state of famine, the garrison surrendered the Castle, by an honour able capitulation, on the 20th of July. Sir Thomas Fairfax was appointed Governor; but as he was subsequently employed in the field, he placed CottereU in the Castle as his substitute. In 1648, when the war was draw ing near to a conclusion, the royal party being nearly subdued, and the garrison of Pontefract consisted of only one hundred men, the King's friends regained possession of this important fortress by stratagem. On the 6th of July, in that year, the Governor having given orders for bringing some beds and provisions out of the country. Colonel Morrice, accompanied by nine others of the King's officers, disguised like peasants, having concealed arms, appeared at the Castle gate with carts laden with beds, provisions, &c. These things being delivered to the main guard, money was given to some of the soldiers to fetch ale ; but scarcely had these departed, when Morrice and his party attacked and mastered the main guard, made way for their confederates to enter, took the Deputy-Governor prisoner, and made themselves masters of the Castie. Sir John Digby was then appointed Govemor, and a part of the King's scattered troops, thirty horse and five hundred foot, formed the gar rison. The third siege of Pontefract Castle commenced the following October, under the command of Oliver Cromwell, who, after endeavouring in vain for a month to make an impression on its massy walls, retired and joined the grand army under Fairfax. On the 4th of December, General Lambert took charge of the forces before the Castle, and pushed the siege with the greatest vigour ; and when the news of the execution of the King, in the following January, reached the place, the garrison, still besieged, proclaimed his son, Charles H., and made a vigorous sally against their enemies. On the 25th of March, 1649, the garrison being reduced to one hundred men, and some of these unfit for duty, surrendered by capitulation. The waUs of the Castle being much shattered, the Parliament ordered its demoUtion, and within two months after its reduction, the buUdings were unroofed, and aU the valuable 254 GENERAL HISTORY OF YOHKSHIEE. materials sold. Thus was this princely fortress reduced to a heap of ruins. Soon after the battle of Marston Moor, Major Beaumont, Governor of Sheffield Castle, was summoned to surrender that fortress to the Parliament arians, but the demand was answered by a voUey of shot, and a reply that the garrison "would hold no parley." The besiegers then erected two bat teries, and kept their cannon playing upon the fortress for. twenty-four hours without any visible effects. Major-General Crawford, who conducted the siege, finding that it was likely to be protracted, sent to Lord Fairfax for the " Queen's pocket pistol," and a whole culverin, which, being brought to the spot, played with such fatal effect, that the garrison was obliged to capi tulate, and thc Castle was surrendered on the 11th of August. On the 30th of April, 1646, the House of Commons directed that the Castie of Sheffield should be rendered untenable; and on the 13th of July in the foUowing year, the same assembly passed a resolution for the "sleighting and de- moUshing " that ancient structure. On the 23rd of AprU, 1648, the work of demolition had begun, and so completely have the ruins themselves been obliterated, that the site of this once noble stronghold of feudal times — in which the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots was for some time detained a prisoner— is only distinguished by the name of Castle Hill. In 1644, Leeds and Ripon having previously fallen into the hands of the Parliamentarians, that party besieged the Castle of Scarborough. On the 18th of February the town, with the Church of St. Mary, was taken by as sault, and Sir Hugh Cholmley, the Governor, retired into the Castle. Sir John Meldrum then made a lodgment in the Church, and opened a battery on the Castle from the east window. The garrison, at the same time, kept an incessant fire on the Church, by which the choir was demoUshed. On the 17th of May, 1645, the besiegers made a general assault on the Castle, but were repulsed with great loss. In this assault. Sir John Meldrum received a mortal wound, of which he died on the 3rd of June. Sir Matthew Boynton was then appointed by the ParUament to the command of the forces before Scarborough Castle, and after a siege of more than twelve months, the forti fications being ruined by incessant battering, the stores nearly exhausted, and the garrison worn out by excessive fatigue, the brave Governor surrendered the fortress upon honourable terms. During this memorable siege, square- shaped silver coins, of the value of 5s. and 2s. 6d. each were issued. One side bore a representation of the Castle, with the inscription, " Obsidium Scarborough, 1645," and the reverse the nominal value of the piece. In the autumn of 1644 the Castle of Helmsley, which was then garrisoned for the King, and commanded by Colonel Crosland, was besieged by Sir GENERAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. 255 Thomas Fairfax, with a body of the Parliament's forces. The place was boldly assaulted, and as bravely defended ; and during the siege Sir Thomas was shot through the shoulder with a mnsket baU, and was removed to York in a very dangerous state. The Castle Was afterwards surrendered to Sir Thomas, and was dismanfled by an order of the Parliament. In the latter part of 1646 Skipton Castle surrendered to the Parliament arians, after sustaining a siege of three years. Its defenders were permitted to retain their arms, and retire either to Newark, Oxford, or Hereford. The Castle was partly demolished in 1649, by an order of Parliament, but the Countess of Pembroke, the great restorer of ruined edifices, repaired, and rendered it habitable, though not perhaps tenable as a fortress. Bolton Castle, in Wensleydale, was also a garrison for the King, and withstood a long siege, in which it was gallantly defended by Colonel Scrope and a party of the.Richmondshire MiUtia. Colonel Henry Chayter, of Croft, was afterwards appointed Govemor of this fortress, and he held it until reduced to eat horse flesh. Towards the close of the year 1645, he capitulated. " CromweU began now to entertain in his own breast those ambitious views which subsequently placed him on the throne," writes the Rev. Geo. Oliver, " and he hid them from the world under the cloak of reUgion. He was a professed Independent; a sect which pervaded alike the City, the country, and the camp. All ranks of society were full of its professors. Soon, in every town and village, the spirit of fanaticism was prevalent, and superseded the chaste and sober practice of genuine religion ; and when the Independents perceived the superiority they had acquired over the minds of the people, they threw off the mask, and adhered in practice no longer to the principles they had formerly professed in theory. The flame, long sup pressed, now burst forth with an irresistible violence that carried all before it. They openly challenged the superiority, says Hume, and even menaced the Church with that persecution which they afterwards exercised against her with such severity. They had a majority in the House, and voted the liturgy an abomination to the godly, and even prohibited the use of it under heavy penalties. They were not respecters of persons ; and it was one of CromweU's sayings, that if he met the King in battle, he would fire a pistol in his face as readily as against any other man.* Slaughter and spoliation were preceded by long prayers ; and murder, as Holies expresses it, was no sin to the visible saints. Even the subversion of the altar and the murder of the Kirig were esteemed acts of piety and devotion to God, and were ac- • Hume's England, vol. viu., p. 224. 236 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. companied by the outward forms of reUgion. With the Bible in their hands, the impious regicides brought a virtuous Monarch to the block ; with a text of Scripture in their mouths, they overthrew the altar and the throne."* In 1645 the liturgy of the Church of England being abolished, the fanati cal soldiers, quartered in the different towns, robbed the churches of the Books of Ooriimon Prayer, and amidst the loudest and most savage accla mations of joy — drums beating, and trumpets sounding — committed them to the flames. In 1646, after a series of defeats, the royal army was disbanded ; and the unfortunate Monarch, despairing of a reconciliation with his enemies, and finding his personal safety insecure, voluntarily placed himself under the protection of the Scottish forces, then at Newark-upon-Trent. The Lords and Commons immediately joined in a vote, unprecedented in history, " That the person of the King shaU be disposed of, as both Houses of Parliament should think flt." By the more moderate party the war was now considered to be virtually at an end ; they expected that the King would agree to the original proposals of the Parliament, and be content to hold the Crown as his predecessors held it ; but the moderate party had entirely lost its influence in Parliament, and a new party had arisen in the state, which became an instrument in the hands of the bold and ambitious Cromwell. This latter party was equally formidable to Royalists, Presbyterians, and Independents. Its founders were a few fanatics in the army, who enjoyed the reputation of superior godliness. They called themselves RationaUsts, but this name was soon exchanged for the more expressive appellation of Levellers. In reUgion they rejected aU coercive authority ; men might establish a public worship at their pleasure, but if it were compulsory, it became unlawful and sinful ; and these fanatics pretended to have discovered in the Bible that the government of Kings was odious in the sight of God ; and they contended that, in fact, Charles had now no claim to the sceptre. The Soots having deUvered up the person of the King, he was detained as a captive, successively at Holdenby, or Holmby House, near Northampton; Hampton Court, near London ; and in the Casties of Oarisbrook and Hurst, in the Isle of Wight. But to return to the annals of York, In January, 1646, the great convoy, under the conduct of Major-General Skippon, arrived at York with the sum of £200,000., which was paid to the Scottish receiver at the GuUd-HaU ; it being the first payment for the arrears of the Scottish army. • History of Beverley, p, 227, GENERAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE, 257 In 1647, when the whole country became under the subjection of the Par liament, York was dismantled of its garrison, with the exception of Clifford's Tower, of which the Lord Mayor was appointed Govemor; and his suc cessors continued to hold that commission for several years. On the 13th of March, 1648, Lord Ferdinando Fairfax died at York, and was succeeded in his title and estates by his son, Sir Thomas. Guizot, in writing of the latter personage, says that, " while the civil war was at its height, he afforded a most useful protection to literature and literary insti tutions. By his care," he adds, " the libraries of York and Oxford were partially at least preserved from pillage."* At the Lent Assizes in 1648, held in the City of York, a woman was tried and condemned for crucifying her mother ; and it is added that after perpe trating the horrid deed, she had offered a calf and a cock for a burnt sacrifice. Her husband also was hanged for being an accomplice ; and at the same time twenty-one men and women were executed here for various crimes. Judge Thorpe (the Recorder of HuU, mentioned at page 219 of this vol.), in his charge to the jury at these Assizes, endeavoured to vindicate the ParUament in all their proceedings, and to justify the execution of the King, which was probably then in contemplation. The Levellers, now a powerful faction, were spreading their pernicious doctrines through all ranks in the army. The King, they said, had bound himself, at his accession, by oath to protect the liberties of his subjects; and as they maintained that he had violated that oath, they argued that they were released from their allegiance to him. For the decision of the question he had appealed to the God of battles, who, by the result, had decided against his pretensions. He therefore, they maintained, was answer.able for the blood which had been shed ; and it was the duty of the representatives of the nation to call him to justice for the crime, and in order to prevent the recur rence of similar mischiefs ; as weU as to provide for the liberties of all by founding an equal commonwealth on the general consent. The fanatics went still further. That had read in the Book of Numbers that " blood defileth the land, and the land cannot be cleansed of the blood that is shed therein, but by the blood of him that shed it;" and hence they inferred that it was a duty imposed on them by the God who had given them the victory, to call the King to a strict account for all the blood which had been shed during the CivU War. It was now some time since the King had begun to fear for his safety,. • Guizot's Monk's Contemporaries. 2 L 258 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. He saw that the violence of the Levellers had daily increased ; and that the government of the Kingdom had now devolved in reaUty on the army. There were two miUtary CouncUs, one consisting of the principal commanders, the other of the inferior officers, most of them men of leveUing principles ; and when any measure had received the approbation of the general council of the army, the House of Commons scarcely dare refuse to impart to it the sanction of their authority. Indeed no man could be ignorant that the ParUament, nominally the supreme authority, was under the control of the CouncU of Officers. It had long been the conviction of the officers that the Ufe of the King was incompatible with their safety ; and that if he were restored, they would become the objects of royal vengeance. In this state of things we are not surprised to find the House of Commons declaring by vote, that it was high treason for the King of England to levy war against the ParUament and Kingdom of England ; and granting an ordinance for the erection of a High Court of Justice to try the question of fact, whether Charles Stuart King of England, had or had not been guilty of the treason described in the preceding vote. The Lords, seeing the approaching ruin of their own order in the faU of the Sovereign, rejected both the vote and the ordinance without a dissen tient voice ; whereupon the Commons voted that the people, or rather they, as the representatives of the people, are the origin of all just power; and on the 20th of January, 1649, the King of England, Sootiand, and Ireland, was arraigned in Westminster HaU, before sixty-six Commissioners, and charged with being a " tyrant, traitor, murderer, and a public and implacable enemy to the Commonwealth of England." The sequel is weU known ; on the 30th of January — ten days after his arraignment — he was beheaded. Thus feU this unfortunate King, who, with all his faults, was worthy of a better fate, and after his death the monarchy of England was abolislied. Charles was by nature a man of peace, and his bitterest enemies could not pronounce him a tyrant from a vicious disposition, or from depraved habits. It was an error in his education, that he had, unhappily, imbibed false ideas of the royal prerogative, which he endeavoured to stretch to its utmost limit ; and to this source may be traced all the calamities which deformed his reign. They were purely the fault of his education, and not of his principles.* Henriette Marie de Bourbon, his Queen, who was, after the death of Charles, privately married to Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans, lived to see the * Macpherson says that England's wealth and commerce at the time of the CivU War of tbe seventeenth century must have been very considerable, since notwithstanding *be interruptions whioh a six years' war had occasioned, the ParUament raised forty mU lions SterUng for the war against the liing. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. 259 restoration of her son tp the English throne. She died in the month of August, 1669, at the Castle of Colombo, near Paris, her last years being chiefly spent in acts of charity and exercises of devotion. York has little share in the annals of the Commonweath, or Cromwellian protectorate. The Lord General does not appear to have ever been in that City, except at the time of its capture after the battle of Marston Moor, and another time, being on a progress to Sootiand. " On the 4th of July, 1650," writes Whitelock, " CromweU came to York, on his expedition into Scotland, at which time all the artillery of the Tower were discharged ; the next day he dined with the Lord Mayor, and on the foUowing day set forward to Scot land. To compliment his Excellency, and to show their zeal for the cause, the magistrates then thought fit to take down the King's Arms at Micklegate and Bootham Bars, through both of which he must needs pass in his journey, and put up the States' Arms in their stead." On the 3rd of September, 1658 (a day of all others he esteemed the most fortunate), Cromwell died of a tertian ague at WhitehaU,* and was succeeded by his son Richard, who was proclaimed " the rightful Protector of the Com monwealth of England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the dominions and terri tories thereunto belonging." Adulatory addresses, too, were presented from most of the Boroughs in England, fiUed with high-sounding panegyrics of Richard's wisdom, greatness of mind, and many other qualities whioh were entirely foreign to his moderate unambitious character. During the Commonwealth, two of the Assizes at York were rendered re markable by the attandance of that wonderful instance of human longevity, Henry Jenkins. In the first trial, which was heard in 1655, Jenkins was brought forward as a witness to prove an ancient road to a mill one hundred and twenty years before. The positive terms in which this venerable man spoke, and the apparent improbability of his memory being able to take such a distinct retrospect, struck the judge in so unfavourable a Ught, that he severely reprimanded him. But the veteran boldly maintained his assertion, stating, in further proof of his depositions, that he was then butler to Lord Conyers, of Hornby Casfle, and that his name might be found in an old register of the menial servants of that nobleman. It is not a little remark able, that there were on the same trial, engaged as witnesses on the opposite side, four men, each about one hundred years old; who, on the judge ob- * CromweU was buried in Westminster Abbey, with regal pomp, but Charles II. had his remains disinterred and thrown into a hole under Tybum. A tradition has been preserved that some of the friends of the Protector secretiy removed the body, and in terred it in a spot in the neighbourhood of the present Bed Lion Square, London. 260 GENERAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. jecting to the evidence of Jenkins, positively declared that he had been caUed Old Jenkins as long as they could remember. In two years after (1657) the same venerable personage was again at York Assizes, as a witness on a trial between the Vicar of Catterick and WiUiam and Peter Mawbank. Jenkins deposed to the tithes of wool, lambs, &c., having been paid, to his knowledge, more than one hundred and twenty years before. On the night of the 8th of December, 1659, there was a remarkably high wind,' such as had never before been experienced in the country. The Cathedral and many of the dweUing houses at York were seriously injured. When the plan for the restoration of the monarchy was nearly complete for execution, the County of York was weU disposed to promote it. Lord Fairfax was become a convert to the cause of monarchy ; to him the numerous Royalists in Yorkshire looked up as a leader ; and he, on the solemn assu rance of General Monk, afterwards Duke of Albemarle (who had been chiefly instrumental in the re-establishment of kingly government) that he would join him in twelve days, or perish in the attempt, undertook'to caU together his friends, and to surprise the City of York. On the Ist of January, 1660, each performed his promise. The gates of York were thrown open to Fairfax by the Cavaliers confined within its walls ; and Monk, who had been with his army in Scotland, crossed the Tweed, and marched against the advanced posts of the enemy, then commanded by General Lambert. Thus the flame of Civil War was again kindled in the north ; but within two days it was extinguished. Lambert's army was ordered by the Parliament to retire, and Monk continued his march to York, where he spent five days in consultation with Fairfax. On the arrival of an invitation to Westminster, Monk resumed his march, and Fairfax having received the thanks of the ParUament, dis banded' his insurrectionary force. Charles II. was proclaimed in London on the 8th, and at York, with the greatest solemnity, on the 11th of May, 1660. On that day the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, &c. on horseback, in their richest habits, preceded the cavalcade ; next foUowed the Chamberlains and Common CouncUmen on foot, in their gowns ; these were attended by more than a thousand citizens under arms ; and lastly, came a troop of country gentlemen, near three hundred, with Lord Fairfax at their head, who all rode with their swords drawn, and hats upon the points of them. When the proclamation was read at the usual places, the bells rung, the cannon roared from the Tower, and the soldiers flred several volleys ; and at night were bonfires, illuminations, &c., with every other demonstration of joy. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. 261 His Majesty made his public entrance into London on the 29th of the same month, it being his birthday ; and on that occasion the inhabitants of York expressed their loyalty by suspending upon a gallows, erected in the Pavement for that purpose, the effigies of Cromwell, clothed in pink satin, and Judge Bradshaw, habited in a Judge's robe, and then burning them in tar barrels ; together with the arms of the Commonwealth and the Scotch Covenant. Never perhaps did any event in the history of this nation produce such general and exuberant joy as the return of Charles to the throne of his fathers. The people attributed to the abolition of monarchy, all the evils which they had suffered ; and from its restoration they predicted the revival of peace and prosperity. Three years after the Restoration a number of fanatics, headed by Conven ticle preachers, and old Parliamentarian soldiers, attempted to revive the old party feeling, which had then gradually subsided. The objects of this rem nant of the Parliamentary faction, as expressed in their printed declarations, were to establish a gospel magistracy and ministry ; to restore the Long Par liament ; and to reform aU ranks and degrees of men, especially the lawyers and clergy. They assembled in arms in great numbers, at Farnley Wood, in Yorkshire, but the time and place of their rendezvous being known, a body of regular trbops, with some of the County militia, was sent against them, and several of them were seized and further mischief thereby prevented. The principal leaders were shortly after tried by a Special Commission at York, and twenty-one of them were condemned and executed ; two of them were also quartered, and their mutilated bodies placed over the several gates of the City. The heads of four of them were placed over Micklegate Bar ; three over Bootham Bar;' one upon Walmgate Bar; and three over the gates of the Castle. At the trial of these insurgents, one of them, named Peregrine Corney, had the boldness to tell the judge that he valued his Ufe uo more than his handkerchief. In the year 1665, during the time that the plague raged violentiy in Lon don,* James, Duke of York (afterwards James IL), and his Duchess spent nearly two months in the City of York. They were met on their arrival at Tadeaster Bridge by the Sheriffs, and at Micklegate Bar by the Lord Mayor • This dreadful epidemic made its appearance in London in the month of June, 1665, and continued tiU the beginning of the year foUowing, during which time more than 100,000 persons are said to have died of it. The houses of infected famUies were ordered to be shut up for a month, and a flaming red cross, one foot in length, was painted on the doors of such houses, with the words, " Lord have mercy on us," placed above it ; and the wretched inmates were doomed to remain under the same roof communicating 262 GENERAL HISTOEY OP YORKSHIRE. and Corporation, and conveyed through the City with every demonstration of loyalty and affection. At their departure the Duke and Duchess expressed the highest satisfaction at the honour and attention paid them. Three years afterwards, the Duke, who had hitherto been an obedient and zealous son of the Church of England, had his religious creduUty shaken, we are told, by reading Dr. Heylin's History of the Reformation; and the result of an en quiry which followed, was a conviction that it became his duty to reconcile himself with the Church of Rome. In 1679, when the BiU of Exclusion was brought forward in Parliament, the Duke, judging it expedient to retire from Court, went to Edinburgh, and in passing through York he was received with much less cordiality than on the occasion of his former visit Although the Sheriffs met him at Tadeaster, the Lord Mayor and Aldermen did not receive him at the gate of the City ; and this defect of ceremony drew on the Magistrates the resentment of the King, and the offending parties re ceived a reprimand signed by the Secretary of State. It having been discovered that several Boroughs, by the exercise of those exclusive privileges which had been conferred on them by ancient grants from the Crown, had grown into asylums of pubUc malefactors, and on that account were presented as nuisances by the grand jurors at the County Assizes. Writs of quo warranto were issued, and the old were replaced by new charters, which, while they preserved to the inhabitants the most useful of their former Uberties, cut off the great source of the evil, by giving to the County magistrates a concurrent jurisdiction with those of the Borough. In January, 1684, a quo warranto was granted against the Corporation of York. In this instrument the members of that body were commanded to show how they came to " usurp " to themselves several liberties which they enjoyed ; and their charter, which was demanded for perusal, was suspended. Some of the historians of York pretend that this proceeding on the part of the King towards the Corporation, was intended as a punishment on the citizens for the coolness which they exhibited towards the Duke of York in 1679 ; but we cannot understand how this opinion can be entertained, seeing that the Corporations of several other Boroughs were treated in a similar manner. The year in which the charter was demanded, the notorious Jef freys attended at York as one of the Judges of Assize, and being interrogated death oue to the other. The pest-cart went round at night to receive the victims of the last twenty-four hours. No coffins were prepared; no funeral service was read; no mourners were permitted to foUow the remains of their relatives or friends. The cart preceded to the nearest cemetery, and shot its burden into the common grave, a deep and spacious pit, capable of holding some scores of bodies. GENERAL HISTORY OP YORKSHIRE. 263 by the Lord Mayor and Aldermen concerning the King's intentions relative to the City, he remarked that his Majesty expected to have the government of the City at his own disposal ; hence it is thought that the citizens were considered disaffected. The Judge however recommended that an address or petition should be prepared by the Corporation, which he would get presented to the King. This advice was compUed with, and in reply Charles ordered Jeffreys to communicate to them his intention of granting them a new charter, in which he should reserve to himself only " the nomination and approbation of the Magistrates, and persons in office therein." The death of the King, in February, 1685, however prevented the fulfllment of his promise. James, Duke of York, now succeeded to the throne, under the title of James II., and on the day of his accession, in a speech to the Privy Council, he promised to preserve the government, both in church and state, as it was then by law established ; and to take care to defend and support the prin ciples of the Church of England, knowing, as he did, that its members have shown themselves good and loyal subjects. On the petition of the citizens of York, the new Monarch restored or renewed their charter. In 1687, according to an ancient record, "begun lamps to be hung up in the chief streets of the City ; viz., at the Minster gates, the west end of Ouse bridge, in the Pavement, &c. ;'' but it is on record that in the reign of Charles TL. the City was lighted by twenty-four large lanterns hung at the corners of the principal streets. The shock of an earthquake was experienced in Feasegate, in this City, on the 12th of February, in the same year. At Gate-Fulford, about a mile and a half from York, it was more seriously felt ; and a subterraneous noise was heard on the occasion, similar to the roaring of a cannon. In 1688, it appears that James, not approving of all the members of the Corporation, and in virtue of a power which he had reserved to himself, in the last charter, of regulating that body, despatched a messenger to displace the Lord Mayor, Thomas Raynes, and several of the Aldermen, and others ; and on the 5th of October he appointed in their place men professing the Catholic religion, but who were not even freemen of the City. The latter circum stance afforded the Lord Mayor a pretext for not delivering up the sword and mace ; but the office, nevertheless, was declared vacant till the 24th of the same month, when James thought it expedient to adopt a different course. Sir John Reresby, the Governor of York, in his Memoirs, tells us of the very peculiar situation in which the City at that time was placed. "It was," he says, " an Archbishopric without an Archbishop; a City without a Mayor; and a garrison without a soldier." " But," he adds, " these defects were soon 264 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. supplied — the old charter was restored, and the old Lord Mayor therewith — the Bishop of Exeter, who fled from that City upon the Prince of Orange's landing, was made Archbishop of York — and I had one company of foot sent to continue with me." York was connected with several of the proceedings which lead to the Revo lution towards the close of this year. It was now fuUy believed that his zeal for the reUgious tenets he professed, was leading the King into measures subversive of the EngUsh Constitution. He had attempted to introduce the Catholic religion into this City, and for that purpose had converted one of the large rooms of the Manor House into a chapel, in which the services of that creed were celebrated. This attempt, together with some arbitrary proceed ings on the part of the Court, gave great offence to the people ; stUl James had many enthusiastic admirers and loyal subjects in the City and County of York. Rumours were being daily spread that William, Prince of Orange, nephew and son-in-law of the King, was preparing to land in this country with a considerable force, as the decided champion of the Protestant reUgion. The ten Deputy-Lieutenants of Yorkshire then resided at York, and after a consultation, a meeting of the gentry and freeholders of the County was appointed to take place at York, on Thursday, the 19th of November, for the purpose of voting a loyal address to the King in this season of danger ; as well as for considering the best means to pursue for the preservation of the peace. At this juncture the Clerk of the West Riding received a new Commission, in which the names of about thirty gentlemen in the neighbourhood, who had previously acted as Magistrates, were omitted. This circumstance greatly exasperated these Magistrates, and none, perhaps, felt it more keenly than Sir Henry Goodrich, the proposer of the above-mentioned meeting. It was now resolved to add to their address a petition to the King, for a free Parlia ment, and redress of grievances. The Duke of Newcastie, Lord Lieutenant of the County, arrived in the City to preside at the County meeting, but finding that several of the Deputy-Lieutenants had joined with the citizens and dismissed Magistrates in their petition, he left the City in disgust. The meeting took place in the Guild-HaU, on the 22nd of November, 1688, and the Governor, in his Memoirs before quoted, informs us that in the midst of about one hundred gentlemen who met. Sir Henry Goodrick delivered him self to this effect, " That there having been great endeavours made by Gov ernment of late years to bring Popery into the Kingdom, and by many devices, to set at nought the laws of the land, there could be no proper redress of the many grievances we laboured under, but by a free ParUament ; that now GENEEAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. 265 was the only time to prefer a petition of that sort ; and that they could not imitate a better pattern than had been set before them by several Lords, spiritual and temporal." During the proceedings a false rumour was raised " that the Papists were risen ; and that they had actually fired upon the Militia troops." Alarmed at this, the party rushed from the hall, and Lord Danby ,.Lord Lumley, Lord Horton, Lord WiUoughby, and others, who, together with their servants, being mounted, formed a body of horse consisting of about one hundred in number, rode up to the troops of Militia, at that time on parade, crying out, " A free Parliament, the Protestant religioa, and no Popery.'' The Captains of the four troops of MiUtia were Lord Fairfax, Sir Thomas Gower, Mr. Robinson, and Captain Tankard, and being in the secret of the false alarm, immediately cried out the same, and led their troops to join them. They then made prisoners of the Govemor and his inferior officers, took possession of the guard house, placed guards at the several entrances leading into the town ; none were suffered to enter or leave the City ; and every person was secured who displayed any disapprobation of their proceedings.* On the foUowing day they summoned a pubUc meeting, passed resolutions, and issued a declaration explanatory of their proceedings. On the 29th of the same month, a mob assembled in the City, and attacked, plundered, and destroyed the houses of the principal Catholics, and committed great outrages in their chapels. They threw down the altars, destroyed all the pictures and statues, and burnt the books and vestments of the priests, in Coney Street and the Pavement. It is well known that James II. sought an asylum in France, and had the Palace of St. Germain placed at his disposal by King Louis XIV., and that he died in less than three years afterwards, at the age of sixty-eight. His remains were interred in St. Germain, and were re-entombed with great ceremony in 1824, when King George IV. erected a handsome monument to his memory. James was the father of James Francis Edward, the " Old Pretender," who died in Rome in 1766, leaving two sons, Charles Edward, the "Young Pretender," and James, the Cardinal of York, and the last of the Stuarts. The Lord Mayor and Commonalty of York followed the example of the rest of the Kingdom, by openly recognising the Prince of Orange as Sovereign of England, under the title of William IH., and offered himj their cordial and grateful acknowledgements in an address of congratula-- * Sir John Eeresby's Memoirs. 2 M 266 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. tion, dated December 14th, 1688 ; and WiUiam, together with Mary, his Princess, were proclaimed King and Queen of England, France, and Ireland, in this City, on the 17th of February, 1689, in the presence of mariy thou sands of spectators. In the month of October following, the river Ouse so much overflowed its banks, that during three successive days the use of boats was necessary at the west end of the bridge. A number of Danish soldiers, amounting to 6,000 foot and 1,000 horse, commanded by the Duke of Wirtemburg, were quartered in York and its neighbourhood during the winter of this year, and they took their departure for Ireland in the following spring. Nearly thirty houses were consumed by flre in High Ousegate, on the night of Monday, the 2nd of April, 1694. The fire broke out on the premises of Mr. Charles Hall, a flax dresser, and in a short time it raged with such violence, that the houses on both sides of the way were enveloped in oue tremendous conflagration. The loss was computed at £20,000. In 1696, one of the King's mints was erected in the Manor House, at York, and buUion and plate was there coined to the amount of £380,621. In the month of May, 1722, a great flood happened at Ripponden, in the parish of Halifax. Between the hours of three and five in the afternoori, the water rose twenty-one feet perpendicular, and bore down in its course many bridges, mills, and houses, and several lives were lost. Part of the church yard was washed away, the graves were laid open, and a coffin floated down the stream a considerable distance. The church was so much damaged, that a new chapel was built soon after the flood. The summer of the following year was remarkable for a great and general drought. At York, the river to the base of the middle arch of Ouse Bridge was completely dry for several yards round. No public transaction of material consequence occurred in the City or County of York, from the period of the accession of William and Mary till the memorable rebeUion of 1745. In the annals of England there have been many struggles for the Crown, sometimes terminating favourably on one side, sometimes on the other ; that which took place between the Pretender, the lineal descendant of our Scottish Kings, and the House of Hanover, is one of the most memorable, and is the last that we have had in England in the shape of civil war and bloodshed. Many of the most powerful of the Scottish chieftains — renowned for the antiquity of their families, their extensive do mains, and the affection borne them by their dependents — were arrayed on the side of the Pretender. The attachment of the highland clans to their GENEEAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. 267 chieftains, and which is undying, is transmitted from generation to genera tion, and to this time it remains in nearly all its patriarchal purity. Relying upon the ancient affection which subsisted between his family and these hardy mountaineers, the Chevalier, Prince Charles Edward Stuart, eldest son of the Pretender-— and, as he is generally called, the " Young Pretender" — resolved to try his fortune amongst them, and regain for his family that rule which had formerly resided with his progenitors. For this purpose, after escaping the vigilance of the EngUsh cruisers, which, from information received by the English Government, had been sent out to intercept him, he landed on the coast of Scotland, on the 25th of July, 1745. The first account of his landing was scarely credited ; and when the news had become fully established, all Europe was astonished at the daring enter prise. Upon promulgating his intentions, the brave clans assembled around him, hoisted their banners, and early in November he marched southward, and entered England with the Duke of Perth, the Marquis of TuUibardine, the Earl of Kilmarnock, and an army of about 8,000 or 9,000 men. On the 9th of that month they laid siege to Carlisle, which was feebly garrisoned ; and on the 15th, the gates were thrown open to the rebel army, and Charles Edward was proclaimed King of England at the cross in the Market-place. The Corporation attended the ceremony in their robes, with the mace and sword carried before them, and on their knees they presented the keys of the City to the Prince. From Carlisle the Scots marched southward as far as Derby, at which point divisions arose amongst them ; they hesitated, re treated, and arrived at Carlisle on the 19th of December, in great confusion, the Duke of Cumberland's horse pressing upon their rear. Next day, the Prince moved northward, leaving four hundred men in the garrison of Carlisle. The Duke reached the latter City on the 21st, at the head of his army, and commenced the siege. The rebel garrison, animated with great courage and fideUty to their Prince, made a gaUant but unavaUing defence, for, on the 80th of December, the Castle was surrendered to the King's troops, and the garrison was made prisoners of. Of the Manchester regiment who surrendered themselves prisoners, there were Colonel Townley, five Captains, six Lieutenants, seven Ensigns, one Adjutant, and ninety-three non-commissioned officers ; and in addition to the Govemor and Surgeon, there were sixteen officers, and two hundred and fifty-six npn-cpmmissioned officers and private men of the Scotch, making a total number of three hundred and ninety-six prisoners, including Coppack, commonly palled the "Mock Bishop." Many of the officers, including Town- ley, Gpyernpr of the City, and HamUton, Governpr of the Castle, were 268 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. executed in London, with aU the revolting and disgusting details observed in cases of high treason ; and their heads were exhibited on Temple Bar, London Bridge, and in public situations in CarUsle, Manchester, and other places. Many others, who were concerned, afterwards died on the block, including the Earl of Derwentwater ; about fifty were executed as deserters in different parts of Scotland ; and eighty-one suffered as traitors after the decisive battle of CuUoden, which was fought in the month of April foUowing, and which sealed the fate of Charles Edward, who then became a fugitive, and at length escaped to France, after the faUure of the second attempt of the expeUed House of Stuart to restore themselves to the throne of their ancestors. During this rebeUion, the City as weU as the County of York gave the most unequivocal proofs of loyalty to the reigning dynasty. The Archbishop projected an Association, consisting of more than eight hundred of the prin cipal nobUity, gentry, and clergy, of the County, which was formed at the Castie of York, on the 24th day of September, 1745. A subscription was im mediately entered into, and the sum of £31,420. was raised for the support of the Government and the defence of the County. John Raper, the Lord Mayor, convened a meeting of the inhabitants for the same purpose, when the subscription in the City amounted to £2,240., and to £220. in the Ainsty. With these sums four companies of infantry, of seventy men each, exclusive of sergeants, corporals, and drummers, were raised, and designated the " Yorkshire Blues." They remained embodied about four months, the superior officers serving without pay, and the sergeants receiving 14s., the drummers, 10s., and the privates, 7s. per week. Another mUitary body, caUed the " Independents," was formed for the defence of the City, by the gentiemen and other principal inhabitants. Their uniform and accoutre ments were purchased at their own expense, and the corps remained under arms ten months. On the 29th of May, 1746, the Prince of Hesse passed one night in York, on his way from Scotiand to London. On the 23rd of July, in the same year, his Royal Highness the Duke of Cumberland, on his return to London from the defeat the rebels at the battle of CuUoden, visited York, and was received with all the honours due to his iUustrious rank and eminent services. On this occasion the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and Sheriffs, presented him with the freedom of the City in a gold box. A number of the rebels were tried and convicted at York, and of these twenty-two were executed. The heads of two of them, WilUam ConoUy and James Maynes, were fixed upon poles over Micklegate Bar, from whence they were stolen in the night of the '28th of January, 1754, by a tailor of York, named WUUam ArundeU, assisted GENERAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 269 by his journeyman. ArundeU was tried and convicted for the offence at the Spring Assizes foUowing, and sentenced to pay a fine of five pounds, and to be imprisoned two years. In 1757 the new regulations for levying the MiUtia, which obliged the poor to contribute equally with the rich, produced a spirit of insubordination in the North and East Ridings of Yorkshire, and on the loth of September, a large body of the country people, from more than thirty parishes, assembled at York, with intent to prevent the constables from presenting the lists of men subject to the baUot. Armed with clubs and other unlawful weapons, they proceeded to the Cockpit-house, without Bootham Bar, where the Deputy Lieutenants and Chief Constables were to have assembled ; and not meeting with the first named officers as they expected, they forced the lists from such constables as were in attendance, and after drinking all the liquors, they demolished the house. They then plundered and destroyed the house of Mr. Bowes, on the opposite side of the street, and threatened to pull down the houses of other persons whom they considered as promoters or favourers of the Militia Act. At length the rioters were prevailed upon to disperse, by the Lord Mayor and High Sheriff; and at the ensuing Assizes several of them were tried and acquitted. Only one, named George Thurloe, received sentence of death, but his punishment was afterwards commuted to trans portation for life. A man of the name of Cole was condemned and executed for being the leader of a riot, on the same occasion, in the East Riding. On the 18th of July, 1761, Edward, Duke of York, passed through this City on his way to Scarborough, whither he was going for the benefit of his health. During his sojourn at the latter place, the Lord Mayor (Thomas Bowes, Esq.), the Recorder (Peter Johnson, Esq.), and two senior Aldermen, waited upon his Royal Highness, to request that he would honour York, on his return, by spending some time in the City. The Duke was pleased to accept the invitation, the Manor House was offered for his accommodation, and on the 19th of August he arrived at York. He alighted at the Minster, surveyed that splendid edifice, and then proceeded to the Mansion House, the streets being lined with Colonel Thornton's miUtia. At the Mansion House the royal visitor was received by the Lord Mayor, Recorder, Aldermen, and Sheriffs ; and the freedom of the City was presented to him, in a gold box of the value of one hundred guineas. The Duke dined with the Lord Mayor, the Earl of Gainsborough, and a great number of the gentry, at the Mansion House; and in the evening he opened a ball at the Assembly Rooms, with the sister of Sir John Lister Kaye, Bart., then High Sheriff of the County. He lodged that night at the Mansion House, and pn the 270 GENERAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. foUowing morning repaired to the race-ground, where he reviewed Colonel Thornton's militia. He breakfasted at the Grand Stand, and after communi' eating the usual compliments of satisfaction, &c., proceeded to London.* The King of Denmark, attended by many of his nobles and a numerous retinue, favoured York with a short visit on the 31st of August in the same year. His Majesty was pleased to receive the formalities of the Corporation ; and the foUowing day he left York, after viewing the Cathedral and the Assembly Rooms; and he returned hy way of Leeds and Manchester to London. On the 8th of January, 1762, war was formaUy declared in York against the King of Spain ; and on the foUowing day a similar declaration was read at the Castle, by the under Sheriff, in the presence of the High Sheriff of the County, attended by two regiments of militia and several gentlemen. In the same year a violent hurricane was experienced at York. It com menced at nine o'clock on the evening of Saturday, the 1st of December, and continued till eight the next morning. Part of the battlement at the west end of the Minster was blown down, and many houses in the City were very much damaged. Edward, the royal Duke, who derived his titie from thia ancient metro pohs, again visited York on the 18th of August, 1766 ; and on that occasion he patronized the national sport, by honouring with his presence the races on Knavesmire. Never was a more brUUant race meeting at York than this. On Sunday, his Royal Highness attended Divine service at the Cathedral, at the west door of which he was received by the residentiary Canons and choir, as weU as by the Lord Mayor, Recorder, and Aldermen, and conducted to the Archiepiscopal throne. On Monday he set out for Mr. Cholmley's seat, at Housham, on his way to Scarborough ; and on the 6th of September he left Scarborough, and passed through York, en route to the Earl of Mexborough's geat at Methley, from whence he proceeded to Loudon. Count de Guigues, the French Abbassador, being on a tour to the north, passed through York on the 22nd of October, 1772. He was honoured with a guard of General Mordaunt's dragoons ; but not approving of the for mality, he gave the men twelve guineas, and dismissed them. In the month pf September, 1777, a slight shook of an earthquake was experienced at York ; but it was felt more violently at the same time at Leeds and Manchester. In the year 1779, the inhabitants of the Yorkshire coast were frequentiy thrown into a state of alarm by that intrepid Anglo-American buccaneer, * Hargrove's History of Yprk, vol. i,, p, 236, GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 271 Paul Jones. " This man had formerly been in the service of the Earl of Selkirk, whence he was expelled with disgrace,'' writes Alien,* " and having repaired to America, he volunteered to make a descent on the British coast. Being at first entrusted with the command of a privateer, he landed on the coast of Scofland, and, in resentment, plundered the mansion of his former master ; he also burnt several vessels at Whitehaven, and performed a num ber of other daring exploits. These services insured his promotion, and procured him the command of a smaU squadron, consisting of the Bon Homme Richard, and the AlUance, each of forty guns ; the Pallas, of thirty-two guns ; and the Vengeance, armed brig. With this force he made many valuable captures, insulted the coast of Ireland, and even threatened the City of Edin burgh. On Monday, the 20th of September, 1779, an express arrived at Bridlington, from the bailiffs of Scarborough, with inteUigence that an enemy was cruising off the coast. The same night the hostile squadron was des cried off Flamborough, and it was soon discovered that Paul Jones was the commander. In the night of Tuesday, a large fleet of British coasting vessels sailed into the bay of Bridlington, and the harbour became so completely crowded, that a great number could only find security in being chained to each other on the outside of the piers. Two companies of the Northumber land MiUtia, then quartered in the town, were caUed to arms by beat of drum after midnight and the inhabitants, armed with such weapons as could be most readUy procured, proceeded to muster at the Quay, while a number of the more opulent were making preparations for sending their famUies into the interior. Business was now completely at a stand, and the attention of aU was directed to the expected invasion. On Thursday a valuable fleet of British merchantmen, from the Baltic, under the convoy of the Serapis, Captain. Pearson, of forty-four guns ; and the Countess of Scarborough, Cap tain Piercey, of twenty-two guns, hove in sight, and were chased by the enemy. The first care of Captain Pearson was to place himself between the enemy and his convoy ; by which manoeuvre he enabled the whole of the merchantmen to escape in safety into the port of Scarborough. Night had now come on, but the moon shone with unusual brightness. About half-past seven o'clock the thunder of the cannon announced that the engagement had commenced, and the inhabitants of the coast, on hastening to the cliffs, were presented with the sublime spectacle of a naval engagement by moonUght. The battle raged with unabated fury for two hours, when at length Captain Pearson, who was engaged by the two largest of the enemy's frigates, was ¦• History of Yorkshire, pp. 194, 195. 272 GENERAL HISTOEY OP YORKSHIRE. compeUed to surrender. Captain Piercey made also a long and gallant de fence against a superior force, but he was in the end obUged to strike to the PaUas. The enemy purchased the victory at a prodigious price, not less than three hundred men being kUled or wounded in the Bon Homme Richard alone, which vessel received _so much injury, that she sunk the next day with many of the wounded on board." In 1782 orders were issued by Government for a general Association, to enable the inhabitants of Britain to resist an invasion, said to have been in tended by the Monarchs of France and Spain, assisted by the Dutch. In answer to this order, a corps of gentiemen volunteers were embodied at York, who provided their own arms and accoutrements, but were under no other control than that of the civU magistrates ; and four companies of men in humbler life were embodied, supported, and paid out of a general subscription raised for the purpose, and to which the Corporation generously voted the sum of £500.* The latter corps, however, were under military law, and were liable to be marched out to any part of the Kingdom, in case of actual in vasion or rebellion. On the 20th of July, 1782, that celebrated statesman, the Marquis of Rockingham, Lord Lieutenant of the County, was buried in the Cathedral with much ceremony and solemnity. Several members of a political society formed in York, under the patronage of this distinguished nobleman, and in honour of him called the " Rockingham Club,'' assembled in the Minster Yard, and thence proceeded in a body to Dringhouses, about one mUe and a half from the City. At this place they met the corpse, attended by a numerous cavalcade, which they joined; and the procession, which consisted of about two hundred citizens on horseback, two and two ; several gentiemen bearing banners, bannerols, &c., attended by pages; the hearse, bearing escutcheons, and containing the body, in a coffin covered with crimson velvet superbly ornamented ; six mourning coaches with sis horses each, and twenty carriages with the principal gentlemen of the County and City ; moved with slow and solemn pace to the Cathedral. The body was placed in the choir during evening prayers, and then deposited in the vault with great solemnity. In the winter of 1784, which was exceedingly severe aU over Europe, the river Ouse was firmly frozen during eight successive weeks. The labouring classes of society suffered much, but a subscription was raised, and bread and coals were distributed gratis to upwards of 6,000 indigent individuals. The price of coals was so enhanced with the carriage by land, that they were , Hargrove's History of York, vol., p. 257. GENERAL HISTORY OP YORKSHIRE. 273 sold at thirty shillings per chaldron. The effects of the thaw were very unpleasant. The Ouse rose so high that the houses in many parts were inundated, and the inhabitants were obUged to move about in carts. On Monday, the 31st of August, 1789, the Prince of Wales, afterwards King George IV., accompanied by his royal brother, the Duke of York, visited the races of this City. Their Royal Highnesses arrived in their car riage, and alighted at some distance from the Grand Stand, where they rode about on horseback, to gratify public curiosity with a sight of their persons. At the conclusion of the day's sport they entered the carriage of the Earl FitzwiUiam, and proceeded towards the City. At Micklegate Bar the popu lace took the horses from the carriage, and drew them through the streets amidst loud congratulations. The following day the Corporation presented the Heir-apparent with the freedom of the City, in an elegant gold box ; and on Thursday in the same week, his Royal Highness dined with the Lord Mayor, at the Mansion House, in company with the Dukes of Norfolk, Bed ford, and Queensberry; the Earls of Derby, Kinnoul, and Fauconberg; the Lords Clermont, Downe, Loughborough, Henry Fitzgerald, Rawden, Grey, Fitzroy, Fielding, and George Henry Cavendish ; Sir William Milner, Sir Thomas Dundas, Sir James Sinclair, Sir George Armitage, &c. On the foUowing Saturday these two royal personages proceeded to Castle Howard, the seat of the Earl of Carlisle, having previously ordered Lieutenant Colonel St. Leger to pay into the hands of Walter Fawkes, Esq., High Sheriff of the County, two hundred guineas for the relief of debtors in the Castle. They also gave twenty guineas for the purpose of clothing some female convicts, who had been ordered for transportation ; and, in addition to these benevolent donations, the Prince of Wales discharged the debts of three prisoners in Ouse Bridge Gaol, and performed several other acts of charity. That eminent statesman, Charles James Fox,_ visited York on Monday in the August race week, 1791, and whilst approaching the City, seated in a carriage with the Earl FitzwiUiam, the populace took the horses from the carriage, and drew it through the principal streets to the Deanery. A grand dinner was given to him, and many noblemen and gentlemen, at the Mansion House, and he was presented with the freedom of the City, in a gold box of the value of fifty guineas. On the 13th of January, 1792, a singular meteoric appearance — an aerial army — was observed near the viUage of Stockton-in-the-Forest about four miles from York, by many persons of credit and respectabiUty. This strange atmospherical phenomenon resembled a large army, in separate divisions some in black and others in white uniforms ; one of these divisions formed a 2 N 274 GENERAL HISTORY OF YORKSHIRE. line that seemed nearly a mile in extent, and in the midst of which appeared a number of fir trees, which moved along with the line. These aerial troopers moved with great rapidity and in different directions.* In thfe month of June, 1794, the country at large being in a very unsetfled state, the respectable inhabitants of York enrolled themselves in different corps of infantry, and provided themselves with uniforms, arms, &c. ; but the non-commissioned officers were regularly paid, by a general subscription raised for that purpose, towards which the Corporation contributed £500. This loyal body of infantry assembled on Knavesmire, on the 28th of De cember following, when they were presented with colours by the Lady Mayoress, in the name of the ladies of York. In November, 1795, Prince William Frederick of Gloucester visited Scarborough, and, on his return to the south, spent some time in York, and was presented with the freedom of the City in a gold box, with the usual formalities. He left York on the 12th of January, 1796. In 1805, the Right Hon. John, Earl of St. Vincent, the great naval com mander, honoured this City with a visit, and received its freedom in a box of " Heart of Oak." At the Assizes held at York, iu March, 1809, Mary Bateman, a celebrated * On the 23rd of June, 1744, about seven o'clock in the evening, troops of horsemen were seen riding along the side of SouterfeU (Cumberland) in pretty close ranks, and at a brisk pace. Opposite Blake Hills they passed over the mountain, after describing a kind of ourviUneal path. They continued to be seen for upwards of two hours, the approach of darkness alone preventing them from being visible. Many troops were seen in succession, and frequently the last but one in a troop quitted his position, galloped to the front, and took up the same pace with the rest. About twenty-six persons in perfect health saw these aerial troopers. — Clarke's Survey of the Lakes. Similar phe nomena were seen at Harrogate, on the 2Bth of June, 1812 ; and near St. Neots, in Huntingdonshire, in 1820. Aerial phenomena of a UUe nature are recorded by Livy, Josephus, and Suetonius ; and a passage in Sacred History seems to refer to a like cir cumstance. (See Judges, ix., 36). Philosophers account for these appearances on the principle of atmospherical refraction. Many in this country considered thera as ominous of the great waste of blood spUt by Britain in her wars with America and France, Shakespeai-e says, in the tragedy of Julius Ccesar, — " There is one within, Eecounts most horrid visions seen to night : Fierce fiery warriors fought upon the clouds, \\liicli drizzled blood upon the Capitol ; The noise of battle hui-tlecl iu the au-, Aud ghosts did shriek and gibber iu tbe streets. * * * * ¦When these prodigies do so conjointly meet. Let no man say they are natural ; for I beUeve They are portentous things unto the cUmate that they point upon." GENERAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. 275 "Yorkshire Witch," was tried and condemned for murder. This wretched creature had previously Uved in York as a servant, but left it in disgrace, being charged with a petty theft, and retired to Leeds, where she married. For a long period she practised the art and mystery of fortune teUing at Leeds, deluding multitudes, defrauding them of their property under the false pretence of giving them a " peep into futurity." To enable her to accompUsh her viUany, and in order to prevent detection of the fraud, there is reason to beUeve that, with the aid of the poisonous cup, she closed the mouths of many for ever. For one of these murders she was committed to York Castle, tried, found guUty, and on Monday, the 20th of March, she was executed, at the new drop behind the Castle, in the presence of an immense concourse of people ; and such was the stupid infatuation of the crowd, that many are said to have entertained the idea, that at the last moment she would evade the punishment, about to be inflicted, by her supernatural powers. And to view her lifeless remains — perhaps with a view of proving that she was of a verity dead — crowds of people assembled at Leeds, though the hearse did not arrive there tiU near midnight, and each paid threepence for a sight of the body ; by which thirty pounds accrued to the benefit of the General Infirmary. On the occasion of his Majesty George IH. having entered the fiftieth year of his reign, the anniversary, October 25th (1809), was celebrated throughout the country as a day of jubilee. At York, several hundred pounds were collected at a public meeting, and expended — not iu wasteful and un meaning iUuminations — but in feeding the hungry, and relieving the indigent. PubUc breakfasts, ward dinners, private treats, and baUs were " the order of the day." The Archbishop treated sixty-four debtors in the Castle with beef, bread, ale, and coals ; aud even the felons shared in the festivity. There was a partial iUumination in the City ; and the soldiers in the barracks fired e,feu dejoie, and iUuminated their apartments. On the 26th of August, 1822, the City of York was honoured with a visit from his Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex, brother to the reigning Mo narch of that day, George IV. The Royal Duke partook of the hospitalities of the Corporation at the Mansion House, where a public dinner was given to him. The freedom of the City was presented to him in a gold box, ac companied by an address expressive of the admiration of that "splendid career of useful beneficence and spirited patriotism whioh gave a brUliant lustre to his exalted birth." The Duke was on this occasion the guest of Robert Chaloner, Esq., M.P. for the City. In the year 1841 the same noble Duke paid a second visit to York, for the purpose of holding a grand masonio 276 GENERAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIRE. lodge. He then sojourned at the York Tavern (now Harker's Royal Hotel), which for some time afterwards was called the Royal Sussex Hotel. Since the reign of Charles I., York, which was, as we have seen, in former times the residence of Emperors and Kings, had not been visited by any English Sovereign (though it had often been honoured with the presence of different branches of the Royal famUy) down to the time of our present Queen. In September, 1835, her Majesty, then the Princess Victoria, and her mother, the Duchess of Kent, visited York and were received with the most unbounded loyalty. The Royal party attended the musical festival at the Minster on each of the four days upon which it was held, and during their stay at York, they were the guests of the Archbishop at Bishopthorpe Palace. For his attention to these iUustrious visitors, the Lord Mayor (the late Sir John Simpson) received the honour of knighthood from his late Majesty, WUliam IV., in 1836, On the 21st of July, 1846, the Archeological Institute of Great Britain and Ireland held their annual meeting at York, under the presidency of Earl FitzwiUiam, The members visited the different objects of interest in the City and neighbourhood, and an exhibition of British Antiquities was held in St, Peter's schoolroom in the Minster Yard, In July, 1848, his Royal Highness the late Duke of Cambridge, accom panied by his son George, the present Duke, aud other illustrious personages, attended the annual show of the Royal Agricultural Society at York, and dined with the company in the large pavilion erected for that purpose in St. George's Close. On the 28th of September, 1849, the Queen, the Prince Consort, and the Royal chUdren stopped at York on their return from Balmoral (their High land residence) to London, on which occasion the royal party partook of luncheon at the Station Hotel ; a loyal address was presented by the Lord Mayor, and great rejoicings were made on the occasion. On Friday, the 25th of October, 1850, York was the scene of a magnifi cent festival, which must be remembered as one of the most interesting events in civic history ; whether Tegarded for the splendour of the assembly, or in connection with the great event which it was mainly designed to propitiate ; namely the great Industrial Exhibition of the products of aU nations in the Crystal Palace, erected in Hyde Park, London, in 1851. The Lord Mayor of London having given a grand entertainment with the same patriotic object; and at which his Royal Highness Prince Albert and the Mayors and chief magistrates of the principal towns in the Kingdom were GENERAL HISTORY OP YOEKSHIRE. 277 present ; it was thought but natural that this example should be followed by the great Corporations of the country. It was, accordingly, agreed at a meeting of the Mayors and other civic authorities held at Derby, to carry out the proposition of the Lord Mayor of York, the Right Hon. George H. Sey mour, to give a return banquet in this City. A subscription was entered into for the purpose of enabling the Lord Mayor of York, in conjunction with the municipalities of the United Kingdom, to receive the Prince Consort and the Lord Mayor of London, at a banquet of becoming magnificence. The preparations were on the most splendid scale, and, as was well remarked by the leading journal of the day, " York, the home of the Roman Emperors, when London was comparatively neglected by the masters of the ancient world, made a display worthy of the far-famed City, that gave a grave to Severus and to Constantine Chlorus, and afforded a rallying cry to the haughty factions which fought for the English throne.'' The Guild-HaU was fitted up for the occasion in most superb style ; and invitations were issued for 248 guests, the full extent of the accommodation afforded by that splendid room. Prince Albert arrived by railway from London, and was received at the York station by the Lord Mayor of York, attended by a guard of honour, and was conducted to Lord Wenlock's car riage, which was in waiting, and in which the Prince drove to the Mansion House, attended by an escort. His Royal Highness was received at the Mansion House by a guard of honour of the Second, or Queen's Dragoon Guards, under the command of Col. CampbeU, the band of the regiment playing the National Anthem. The Prince was conducted to the state room of the buUding, where several persons were presented to him. At the Recep tion, the Lord Mayor of York appeared in a crimson sUk robe, Uned with shotpink satin; this being, according to Dugdale, the pecuUar robe of the privUcged Chief Magistrate of this ancient City when appearing before royalty. Amongst the distinguished company at the banquet were his Royal High ness Prince Albert, the Right Hon. the Lord Mayor of London, the Right Hon. the Lord Mayor of York, the Lord Provost of Edinburgh, the Arch bishop of York, Lord John Russell, the Marquisses of Clanricarde and Abercorn, the Earis of CarUsle, GranviUe, FitzwiUiam, and Minto, Lords Beaumont, Feversham, and Overstone, Sir George Grey, Bart., Sir Charles Wood, Bart., the Hon. Beilby R. Lawley, the High Sheriff of Yorkshire, Sir C. Tempest, Bart., Hon. 0. Duncombe, General Sir^W. Warre, Sir J. V. B. Johnstone, Bart., the Members of Pariiament for the City, the Recorder, the Sheriff of York, Richard Cobden, Esq., and nearly one hundred Mayors and 278 GENERAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. heads of Boroughs. The general appearance of the fine old Gothic haU was elegant in the extreme. The great west window was covered with crimson cloth, in order to secure a better effect to a magnificent ornamental design of M. Soyer's, erected in front of the window, and immediately behind the great circular table, at which sat the chief guests. It consisted of a large emble matic vase, twenty feet in height, painted and modelled by Mr, Alfred Adams, Around the vase was Britannia receiving specimens of industry from the four quarters of the globe. Round a palm tree, which sprung from the centre, were the Arms of London and York. Medallion portraits of the Queen and Prince Albert, surrounded by the shields of the principal cities and towns in the United Kingdom, formed the body of the vase. Two figures of Ireland and Scotland formed the handles ; the Prince of Wales's emblem, the neck ; and the Royal Arms, the apex. Appended were graceful wreaths of flowers, in which predominated the symbols of the Houses of York and Lancaster, the red and white rose ; and when a brUliant flood of gas-light, aided by power ful reflectors, was thrown upon this splendid decoration, the effect was very beautiful. The whole of this part of the haU was profusely and elegantly adorned with crimson drapery, vases of flowers, evergreens, banners, &c. In front of the principal table, on a raised platform, covered with purple cloth, was a collection of maces, state swords, and valuable civic insignia, belonging to the various Corporate bodies ; aud these ancient maces, which had been wielded by generations of Mayors, with the velvet sheaths and gaudy mountings of the gigantic swords of state, formed a picturesque group. The waUs of the haU were hung with crimson cloth to the height of about ten feet, as were also the oak pUlars. Above were suspended several of the fuU length portraits from the Mansion House. The banners of the several Mayors, suspended from the roof arcades, the gallery, &c., were character- isticaUy splendid ; they bore the Arms of the several Cities and Boroughs whence they were sent ; the banner of York, worked by the Lady Mayoress, was conspicuous to the right of the chair, and the banner of London to the left. At the east end of the hall was erected a handsome gaUery, for an orchestra and a limited number of ladies to witness the banquet. It was ornamented with crimson drapery, oil paintings, banners, evergreens, flowers, &c. Besides the ordinarily pendant gas Ughts between the piUars of the arcade on each side, there were in the body of the hall eight variegated Go thic lanterns ; three suspended from the roof in the north aisle ; three in the south aisle ; one at either end of the middle aisle, in the centre of which there was a chandelier, its pendant stem entwined with the flgure of a ser pent formed in gas. The two piUars of the hall nearest the royal table were GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. 279 wreathed with evergreens and flowers, and serpentine gas-Ughts, and the gaUery was lit with piUars of gas and Gothic lanterns. The tables shone with epergnes, plateaux, centre pieces heaped up with pines, grapes, and the richest fruit, with sUver plate beneath innumerable lights. Among the embeUishments were various productions in patent glass sUvering, prepared expressly for the occasion, as being pecuUarly appropriate to a festival to celebrate the approaching congress of the artistic industry of aU nations. These specimens consisted of gilt, silvered, and bronze figures, bearing large globes of silvered glass. There were also three drinking cups, one for the Prince, and one each for the Lord Mayors of London and York ; the first in ruby- glass, portions of the rim and base internally checkered with silver, and on the sides bearing sunken medallions of her Majesty and his Royal Highness Prince Albert and the Royal Arms of England. The other two cups were of the same size and shape, but instead of being ruby and silver, the colours were emerald and silver; and on the sides were the private arms of each of the Lord Mayors, together with the usual heraldic emblazonments of the Cities of London and York respectively. The uncertainty of the Lord Mayor of Dublin's arrival prevented a cup being prepared for him. After grace had been pronounced at the close, as at the beginning of the banquet, " the loving cup" was passed round after the customary welcome was deUvered in the name of the Lord Mayor to all his guests, in the usual civic fashion, by Mr. Harker, the London toast master, amid a flourish of trumpets. The banquet was prepared under the superintendence of M. Soyer; and one dish alone on the royal table cost the immense sum of one hundred guineas. The chief items in this Apician group were turtle and ortolans. The wines for the royal table were ordered at an unlimited price from Messrs. Chillingworth and Son, of London, wine merchants to the Queen. There was a grand concert and ball in the Assembly Room during the evening, and the whole City was brilliantly iUuminated. Prince Albert, who was the guest of the Lord Mayor of York on the night of the banquet, retired from the company at midnight, and left the Mansion House at eight o'clock on the following morning. He was accompanied to the Railway Station by the Lprd Mayor, the Marquis of Abercorn, Colonel Grey, Colonel Seymour, and others ; and upon his departure for London he thanked thp Lord Mayor in the most flattering terms for the very satisfactory arrangements which had been made for his comfort and accommodation. On Thursday, the 14th of September, 1854, her Majesty the Queen, ac companied by the Prince Consort, and five of the youthful Princes and Princesses (including the Prince of Wales), and the ladies and gentiemen of 280 GENERAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. the royal household, stopped at York en route for Balmoral, and partook of luncheon at the Station Hotel. The whole of the Railway Station was entirely cleared of carriages, and the ground between the rails being re-laid with gravel, gave it a neat and clean appearance. The arrival platform, for nearly its entire length, was covered with a beautiful tapestry carpet of splendid colours and design. On this platform were placed tables covered with suitable drapery, and upon them stood elegant vases of flowers. The platform entrance of the Hotel was decorated with flowers and evergreens, aiid immediately in front of it, in the pit of the Station, stood the band of the Seventh Hussars, whUe a detachment of the same regiment took up a position along the southern side of the pit. Lower down, and on both plat forms, were stationed three hundred of the Second West York Light Infantry, under the command of Colonel Smyth, M.P. ; the band of that regiment occupying a position at its head. About one o'clock the royal train entered the Station, and the royal party were received by the Lord Mayor (George Leeman, Esq.), the Archbishop of York, the Earl of Carlisle, and the Railway Directors. The excitement of the hundreds who thronged the opposite plat form attained its highest pitch when they caught a gUmpse of the royal party. The heads of the gentiemen were uncovered, the soldiers presented the royal salute, while from the whole mass there rose one general, thrUUng " huzza," which, mingling with the National Anthem, struck up at first by the Militia band, and caught up afterwards by that of the Hussars, formed one grand and enthusiastic oblation to Royalty, amid which the Queen, leaning on the arm of her royal consort, foUowed by five of her children in a row, and her suite, walked along the carpeted path to the hotel, and on her way repeatedly acknowledging the loyal plaudits of her subjects. The Lord Mayor walked along with the royal couple to the hotel, where they, were conducted into a handsomely furnished room set apart for the purpose of refreshment, and from which a good view of the Minster, the Museum, St. Mary's Abbey, &c., is obtained.The room was decorated at one end by a device, consisting of the initials " V. R." and " P. A.," formed of white artificial flowers, arranged on a crim son ground, the whole being surrounded with flowers and evergreens ; and over the door was placed a representation of the Prince of Wales' feathers, also encircled with dahUas and evergreens, and bearing the motto, "Ich dien."* The table was provided with the most sumptuous viands, wines, • The Bohemian crest, viz : — ^three ostrich feathers, and the motto Ich dien (I serve), was adopted by Edward the Black Prince, at the Battie of Cressy, in 1346, the Eing of Bohemia being slain in that battle. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 281 grapes, pines, &c. Two or three of the Royal suite partook of refreshments with her Majesty, while the remainder were accommodated, in suitable style-, in an adjoining apartment. The interval of half an hour, during which the royal visitors remained in the hotel, was enlivened by the performance of the two bands. The royal party then re-appeared on the platform in the same order as that which cha racterized their arrival, and proceeded towards the train, which consisted of nine carriages, the one occupied by her Majesty being in the centre. The bands struck up once more " God save the Queen " — the spectators cheered their loudest— the soldiers again gave the royal salute, and after a few words with the Archbishop and the Earl of Carlisle, her Majesty, the Prince, and the Royal family, entered the train. The Lord Mayor and several others of the North-Eastern board of directors then took their places in one of the carriages, and the train proceeded towards the north amidst the loud plaudits of an immense number of human beings who had assembled on the City walls. Tanner-row, Toft-green, and the entire district abutting on the Une. The train was accompanied by electrical telegraph apparatus, so that in case of an accident, a communication could be made immediately for aid. On her return from Scotland, on the 13th of the following month, her Majesty en suite visited the towns of Kingston-upon-HuU and Great Grimsby. The royal party arrived in the former town on the evening of that day, and were received by the Mayor and Corporation, the Magistrates and other civic officers of the Borough, as well as by the Earls of Carlisle and Yarborough, Lords Londesborough and Hotham, Sir Clifford Constable, the Lord Mayor of York, the Mayor of Beverley, the foreign Consuls, and the elite of the town and neighbourhood. Her Majesty en suite were lodged that night at the Station Hotel, the town was briUiantly illuminated, and on the following morning the royal party made a progress through the principal streets of the town, and through the docks, amidst the hearty acclamations of many thou sands of persons. After conferring the honour of Knighthood on the Mayor (Sir Henry Cooper), at the Corporation Pier, her Majesty departed in the royal yacht, the Fairy, about eleven o'clock on the same day for Grimsby. Thence the illustrious visitors proceeded by railway to London, and arrived at Windsor on the same evening. Since the above-mentioned period, the Queen and royal family, en route to and from Scotland, have several times honoured York with their presence to luncheon (at the Royal Station Hotel), it being the most central station between the two great capitals of England and Scotland. The ceremon-v on. each occasion was very similar to that already described. 3 0 282 GENEEAL HISTORY OF YOEKSHIEE. CIVIL GOVERNMENT, TITLES, &c.— The civU government of Yorkshire was anciently lodged in the Earl or Count to whom it was com mitted by the King ; and in time it was intrusted to a person duly quaUfied, who was called Shire-reve, i.e.. Sheriff or Govemor of a Shire or County. Before the Oth Edward Lt. (1316), this officer was elected by the freeholders ; but since that time, the appointment has been made by the Sovereign. His office is to execute the King's writs, return juries, and keep the peace ; and his jurisdiction is caUed a Bailiwick, because he is the Bailiff of the Crown. York has had its own High Sheriff from the 3rd of WiUiam the Conqueror, 1069. The office of Lord Lieutenant appears to have been introduced early in the reign of Henry VIII, The statutes of PhiUp and Mary speak of them as officers well known at that time, though Camden mentions them in the time of Queen EUzabeth, as extraordinary magistrates, constituted only in times of difficulty and danger.* The Lord Lieutenant is nominated by the Lord ChanceUor, and is always a justice of the quorum, and to him the nomination of the Clerk of the Peace belongs. There are three of these officers for the County of York ; one for each of the three Ridings. The office of Custos Rotulorum, or Keeper of the rolls and records of the session of peace, is of considerable antiquity, but has been of late years an nexed to that of Lord Lieutenant. Before the Conquest the Comites, or Earls of Northumberland, were also Governors of the City and County of York. Morcar was the last Earl of Northumberland before the Conquest, and he remained so tiU in the year 1069 he revolted, and WiUiam gave this Earldom to Robert Copsi, or Comins ; and he being slain, the Conqueror then bestowed it on Cospatric, who being deprived of it in 1072, he lastly gave the Earldom of Northumberland to Waltheof, the son of Siward. Some authors doubt whether the City and County of York were included in this grant ; and seem rather to consider that it was only the present County of Northumberland and the Bishopric of .Durham over which he presided. From this era Yorkshire was whoUy dis charged from the government of these Earls, and was placed under the jurisdiction of the vice-comites (anciently substitutes to the Earls), or High Sheriffs of the County. William le Gros, Earl of Albemarle, a great commander, was, by King Stephen, after the victory over the Scots at the famous battie of the Stan dard, in 1138, made Earl qf Yorkshire, or according to some. Earl of York. This is the first and only mention that we find in history of a titular Earl of • Manning and Bray's Surrey, vol. i., p. xxv. introduction. GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIRE. 283 Yorkshire. The first and only Earl of York was Otho, Duke of Saxony, son of Henry Leon, Duke of Bavaria, by Maud, the daughter of Henry IL, King of England. This title was conferred upon Otho by his uncle, Richard I., during his sojoUrn in England in 1190. Whereupon some performed ho mage and fealty to him, but others refusing, the King gave him as an exchange, the County of Poictiers. In the 9th of Richard II. (1385), amongst several other creations, Edmund of Langley, fifth son of Edward IH. and Queen PhiUppa, was made the first Dulte of York. This Prince died at his Manor of Langley, and was interred in the Priory there. Edward Plantagenet, Duke of Albemarle, his eldest son, after the death of his father succeeded to the Dukedom of York in 1406. He was slain at the famous battle of Agincourt, in 1415, and left no issue. The third Duke of York was the illustrious Richard Plantagenet, nephew of the second Duke, and son of Richard, Earl of Cambridge, who was executed for treason against Henry V. This noblemen having been restored to his paternal honours by Henry VL, and aUowed to succeed to his uncle's inheri tance, was one of the most powerful subjects in the Kingdom. Being a descendant of King Edward IH., he claimed the Crown of England, and levied war against the King, which lasted for thirty years, and deluged the land with blood. (See page 153.) He was killed at the battle of Wakefield, and Queen Margaret caused his head to be cut off and fixed over Micklegate Bar, York.* Richard was a brave man, but deficient in poUtical courage, and was worthy of a better fate. Edward Plantagenet, the fourth Duke of York, the eldest son of the last Duke, prosecuted his father's pretensions, and after the battie of Towton, he was proclaimed King of England, under the tifle of Edward IV., and thus the Dukedom of York became merged in the royal dignity. This Monarch was remarkable for beauty of person, bravery, affability, and every popular quality, but in the end he defiled his fame and power by effeminacy and cruelty. Richard Plantagenet of Shrewsbury, fifth Duke of York, second son of Edward IV., was created by his father when very young, on May 28th, 1474. This unfortunate Prince is supposed to have been murdered in the Tower of London, with his eldest brother, Edward V., by order of their uncle, the Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard HI., in 1483. The sixth was Henry Tudor, the second son of King Henry VIL, who was created Duke of York on the 1st of November, 1491 ; and Prince of Wales, ori the death of his brother Arthur, February 18th, 1503 ; and on the death of his royal father he succeeded to the throne, under the well ¦• " So York may overlook the to-wn of York." — Shakespeare., 284 GENERAL HISTORY OP YOEKSHIEE. known name of Henry VHL, and this dignity again became merged in the Crown. From this period it has been customary to confer the Dukedom of York on the second son of the Sovereign. The next was Charles Stuart, second son of James I., who, when a child not full four years old, was created Duke of York. He was afterwards King of Great Britain, and the title again merged in the Crown. The eighth Duke was James Stuart, the second son of King Charles I., who was declared Duke of York at his birth, by his royal father, and so entitled, but not so created till January 27, 1643, by letters patent, bearing date at Oxford. Afterwards he ascended the throne of Great Britain, and the title merged in the Crown for the fourth time. On the 29th of June, 1716, the 2nd of George I., that Monarch created his brother Earnest Augustus, Duke of Brunswick and Lunemburgh, Bishop of Osnaburgh (a nominal prelacy, to which the Elector of Hanover has the power of influencing the election alternately with another European power). Earl of Ulster in Ireland, and Duke of York and Albany in Great Britain ; the honours to descend to the heirs male of his body, but he died without isssue. Edward Augustus, second son of Frederick Prince of Wales, born in March, 1738 — 9, was the tenth Duke of York, his Royal Highness having been raised to that dignity by his Majesty George H., on the 1st of April, 1760. On the 31st of March, 1761, he was appointed Rear Admiral of the Blue ; and in the course of a tour through Europe, he visited Monaco, capital of the principality of that name, in the territories of Genoa, in Upper Italy, where he was seized with a maUgnant fever, of which he died on the 7th of September, 1767. Frederick, the eleventh and last Duke of York, was brother of his Majesty King George IV., and second son of King George IH., by whom he was ad vanced to the dignities of Duke of the Kingdom of Great Britain, and Earl of the Kingdom of Ireland, by the tides of Duke of York and of Albany in Great Britain, and Earl of Ulster in Ireland. His Highness was born on the 16th of August 1763 ; and on the 27th of the foUowing February he was elected Bishop of Osnaburgh. From his earliest age he was destined for the military profession, the study of which formed an essential part of his educa tion. His first commission in the army was that of Colonel, which was dated November 1st 1780 ; he was appointed to the command of the 2nd regiment of Horse Grenadier Guards on the 23rd of March, 1782 ; Major-General on the 20th of November following ; and Colonel of the Coldstream Guards, with the rank of Lieutenant-General, on the 27th of October, 1784. On the 27th of the following month he was created Duke of York, &c., after these tities GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YOEKSHIEE. 285 had been extinct for seventeen years— from the period of the death of his uncle Edward, in 1767. On the 29th of September, 1791, he was married at Berlin to Frederica Chariotta Ulrica Catherine, only child of King Frede rick William of Prussia, by his first consort Elizabeth Ulrica Christiana, Princess of Brunswick- Wolfenbuttel. The royal pair were, on their arrival in England, re-married at the Queen's house on the 23rd of November fol lowing. Ou the occasion of his marriage the Duke had voted him by ParUament the sum of £18,000. per annum ; and the King settied on him £7,000. for his Irish revenues, which, in addition to the £12,000. per annum he before enjoyed, constituted a yearly income of £37,000. At the same time the sum of £8,000. per annum was voted to the Duchess, in case she should survive. In 1793 the Duke was called into active miUtary service by being ap pointed to the command of an army ordered for Flanders, to form part of the grand army under the Prince of Saxe Coburg. After the campaign, which lasted for several months, the Duke proceeded to England to concert with the British government the plans and measures for the ensuing campaign. His Royal Highness returned in the month of February, 1794, from Eng land to Courtrai — ^the British head-quarters, and in a few days the new cam paign had begun. It is not within the scope or province of this history to follow the Duke through his numerous engagements, suffice it to say that after a series of successes, and a succession of disappointments, the aUies were at length no longer able to oppose the enemy, and on the 14th of April, 1795, the different British brigades embarked for England. In February, 1795, the Duke of York was appointed to the important post of Commander-in-Chief of the army, and in 1799 he again appeared in the field. He landed at Holland on the 13th of September, and the force under his command, including 1,000 Russians, amounted to nearly 35,000 men. An engagement with the French took place on the 8th of October, in which the enemy was entirely defeated, with a loss exceeding 4,000 kUled, and 3,000 taken prisoners. The British lost about 1,600 men. In another engagement, which followed soon after, the Duke was again master of the field of battle, though the loss amounted to 1,200 British and 700 Russians. On the 17th of October a suspension of arms was agreed on, and it was stipulated that the English and Russians should be aUowed to evacuate Hol land, on condition that 8,000 seamen, either Batavian or French, prisoners in England, should be given up to the French. In July, 1814, and again at the same period in the foUowing year, both Houses of ParUament passed a vote of thanks to the Duke of York fpr the 286 GENERAL HISTOEY OP YOEKSHIEE. benefits he had bestowed on the nation as Commander-in-Chief in the wars then concluded. After the death of Queen Charlotte, in 1818, the Dtrise was appointed custos of the person of his afflicted father, with a parliamen tary grant of ten thousand pounds per annum. The last prominent act of this royal Duke's life, was his defence of the Protestant constitution of the country, delivered in the House of Lords, April 25th, 1825. His Royal Highness died on the 6th of January, 1827, and his remains lay in state in St James's Palace for several days, and were .deposited in the royal vault at Windsor on the 20th of the same month. On the decease of the Duke the title of York became extinct; but it is probable that Prince Alfred, the second son of our present Queen, will be created the next Duke of York. The following is a Ust of such places in Yorkshire as have been the capital residences of Barons by tenure, or by writ of summons ; or have given title to Peers created such by letters patent : — * Aske — B Sir Thomas Dundas, second Baronet by patent August 13, 1794. BaroU Dundas, of Aske. Beverley — M James Douglas, second Duke of Queensbury, in Scotland, by patent May 26, 1708. Extinct on the decease of his sou, 1778. 2 E Algernon Percy, second Baron Louvaine of Alnwick, by patent November 2, 1790. Singley— -B Robert Benson, by patent July 21, 1713. Extinct on his-deoease in 1730. Bolton— B Thomas Orde, by patent October 20, 1797. BurUngton-^B Eichard Boyle, second Earl of Cork, by patent March 20, 1664. Ex tinct id 1735. Carleton — B John de BeUa Aqua, by writ of summons, June 8, twenty-second of Edward I., 1294. 2 B Henry Boyle, by patent October 20, 1714. Died in 1725, when the tide became extinct. 3 B Eichard Boyle, second Earl of Shannon, by patent August 6, 1786, Cleveland— -E Thomas Wentworth, fourth Baron Wentworth, by patent February 5, 1626. Extinct on his death, 1667. 3 D Barbara ViUiers, mistress of Charles 11., by patent, August 3, 1670. Extinct 1774. Cowick— B John Christopher Burton Downay, fifty "Viscount Downe, by patent. May 28,1796. Baron Downay, in EUgland. Craven— JE Tiscffunt Craven, of Ufflngton, Berks., by patent March 15, 1663. Danby— i! Henry Danvers, first Lord Danvers, by patent February 5, 1626. Extinct on his death, 1643. 2 E Thomas Osborne, first 'Viscount Latimer, by patent June 27, 1674. Doncaster— r James Hay, first Baron Hay, by patent, July 5, 161fi. Extinct 1660. * B stands for Baron ; V, for Viscount ; D, for Duke or Duchess ; M, for Marquis ; and E, for Earl. GENERAL HISTORY OP YOEKSHIEE. 287 2 E James Fitz Roy (assumed the name of Scot), natural son of Charles IL, by patent, February 14, 1663. Beheaded 1685, when the titie became forfeited. 3E Francis Scot, third Eari of Dalkeith, and heir to tbe last-mentioned Eari, Ke- stored by Act of ParUament, March 23rd, 1743. Duncombe Park— B Charles Duncombe, by patent July 14, 1826. Baron Feversham, of Duncombe Park. Escriok— B Thomas Knyvet by writ of summons, July 4, 1607. Extinct at Hs death. 2 B Edward Howard, younger son of the Eari of SuffoUs;, by patent April 29, 1628. Baron Howard of Escriok. Extinct 1714. Gisburne Park— B Thomas Lister, by patent October 26, 1797. Baron Eibblesdale of Gisbume Park. HaUfax— K Sir George SavUe, Bart, by patent January 13, 1668. E July 16, 1679. ilf August 22, 1682. Extinct 1700. 3 B Charles Montague, by patent December 4, 1700. E October 14, 1714, Extinct 1772, Harewood— B Edwin Lascelles, by patent July 9, 1790, Extiuot on his death in 1795. 3 B Edward LasoeUes, by patent June 18, 1796, E September 7, 1 812. Holderness- 2 E Odo, Earl of Champagne. Temp. WiUiam I. 2 E John Bamsay, first Viscount Haddington, by patent January 22, 1621. Extinct on his death, 1625. 3 E Eupert, Count Palatine of the EhUie, by patent, January 24, 1644. Extinct on his death, 1682. 4 E Conyers D'Arcy, second Baron D'Arcy, by patent, December 5, 1683, Extinct 1778. Hohne-in-Spalding-Moor — B Marmaduke Langdale, by patent, February 4, 1658. Ex. tinct 1777. Kingston-upon-HuU — E Eobert Pierrepont, first Viscount Newark, by patent, July 25, 1638. Extinct 1773. Kiveton — B Sir Thomas Osborne, by patent, August 15, 1673. Lanesborough — B Bichard Boyle, second Earl of Cork, by patent, November 4, 1664. Baron CUfford, of Lanesborough. Extinct 1735. Leeds — D Thomas Osborne, first Marquis of Carmarthen, by patent. May 4, 1694. Leppington — B Eobert Carey, by patent, February 6, 1662. Baron Carey, of Lepping- ton. Extinct 1661. Long Loftus — B Charles Tottenham Loftus, first Marquis of Ely, in Ireland, bj patent, January 19, 1801. Malton — B Thomas Wentworth, by patent May 28, 1728. E by patent, November 19, 1734. Extinct 1783. Markenfield— B Fletcher Norton, by patent, April 9, 1 782. Middleham — B Eibald, brother to Alan, second Earl of Brittany, by tenure. Temp. WilUam I. Mulgrave — B Constantine John Phipps, second Baron Mulgrave in Ireland, by patent, June 16, 1790. His brother created E by patent, September 7, 1812. Normanby — V Henry Phipps, third Baron Mulgrave, by patent, September 7, 1812. NorthaUerton — V George Augustus, Prince Electoral of Hanover, afterwards George II., by patent November 9, 1706. Merged in the Crown on his accession. 288 GENEEAL HISTOEY OF YORKSHIRE. Pontefract — B Hbert de Lacy, by tenure. Temp. WiUiam I. 3 B John Savile, by patent, July 21, 1682. Baron Savile, of Pontefract. 'Extinct 1671. • 3 B George Fitz Eoy, natural son of Charles II., by patent, October 1, 1674. Extinct on his death, 1716. 4 E Thomas Fermor, second Baron Lempster, by patent, December 37, 1731. Eavensworth — B Bardolph, Baron Fitzhugh, by tenure. Temp. William I. Eawdon — B Honourable Francis Eawdon, by patent, March 5, 1783. E by patent, De cember 7, 1816. Eichmond — E Alan Fergaunt, Earl of Brittany, created by WiUiam I. for his servioes at the battle of Hastings. Extinct 1536. 3 D Ludovick Stuart, second Duke of Lennox, by patent. May ]7, 1633. Extinct on his death, 1624. 3 D James Stuart, second Earl of March, by patent, August 8, 1641. Extinct 1673. 4 D Charles Lennox, natural son of Charles II., by patent, August 9, 1675. Eipon — B James Douglas, second Duke of Queensbury, in Scotland, by patent. May 36, 1708. Extinct 1778. Eoss — B Peter de Eoos, by tenure. Temp. Henry I. Eotherfield — B Eobert de Grey, younger son of Henry I., by tenure. Sandbeck — V James Saunderson, first Baron Saunderson, by patent, 1716. E 1720. Extinct on his decease, 1723. Scarborough — E Eichard Lumley, first Viscount Lumley, by patent, AprU 15, 1690. Setrington — B Charles Lennox, natural son of Charles II,, by patent, August 9, 1675. Sheffield— B John Baker Holroyd, first Baron Sheffield, by patent July 29, 1803. Stittenham — B Sir John Leveson Gower, fifth Baronet, by patent March 16, 1703. Baron Gower, of Stittenham. Skelton — B Eobert Bruce, second Earl of Elgin, in Scofland, by patent, March 18,1664. Extinct at his death. Tadeaster — V Henry O'Brien, Earl of Thomond, in Ireland, by patent, October 19, 171 4. Extinct on his death, in 1741 . 3 B WilUam O'Bryen, by patent July 3, 1826. Towton— B Sir Edward Hawke, by patent May 20, 1776. Baron Hawke, of Towton. Waith — B Thomas Wentworth, by patent, November 19, 1734. Extinct 1782. Wakefield — E Eobert Ker, son of John, first Duke of Eoxburgh, in Scotland, by patent, May 24, 1772. Extinct 1804. Wentworth Wood House — B Sir Thomas Wenthworth, second Baronet, by patent July 22, 1628. V by patent December 10, 1628. Extinct 1695. ¦Wharncliffe — B James Archibald Stuart Wortiey Mackenzie, by patent, July 13, 1826. "Whorlton — B Tbomas Bruce, first Earl of Elgin, in Scotiand, by patent August 1, 1641. Wortiey — B Mary, daughter of Edward Wortley Montague, by patent, AprU 3,1761. Baroness Mount Stuart of Wortiey. Yamm — B Sir Thomas BeUasyse, second Baronet, by patent May 25, 1627. Baron Fauconberg, of Yarum. Extinct 1815, HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 289 This fine old City, the capital of the great County to which it gives name, and the See of an Archbishop, is, in point of dignity, the second City in the Empire. Its origin and the etymology of its name, are equally involved in the obscurity of upwards of twelve centuries. In Nennius' Catalogue it is caUed Caer,* or Kaer Ebrauc:, or the City of Ebraucus, and is the first of that list of cities. Geoffrey of Monmouth, Bishop of St. Asaph, a chronicler of the twelfth century, tells us that it was foupded by Ebraucus, the son of Memprioius, a British King, the third from Brute, in the year of the world 2983, about the time when David reigned in Judea, and Gad, Nathan, and Asaph prophesied in Israel. It is also affirmed, chiefly on the same autho rity, that Ebraucus Ukewise built Aclud, supposed by some to be Aldborough, and by others Carlisle, as weU as Mount Agnea, the Capital of Scotland ; that he reigned sixty years, and had twenty wives, by whom he had twenty sons and thirty daughters ; and that he died at York, and was buried in a Temple dedicated to the goddess Diana, which he had erected on the spot where now stands the ancient Church of St. Helen, in St. Helen's Square.f Though this story of King Ebraucus, his cities, his children, and his wives, has been repeated by several antiquarians, yet the whole account is littie regarded at the present day, and is generally believed to have long since passed into the catalogue of exploded errrors, to which the ignorance or the credulity of every age makes some addition. According to Humphrey Llwyd, the learned Welsh antiquary, York is identified with the City termed by the Britons Caer-Effroc ; and among the towns of the Brigantes mentioned by Ptolemy with the Eboracum of the Romans. Another writer conjectures that a colony of Gauls, which were driven by the Romans from Spain and Portugal, had seated themselves here in Mid-England, and made their chief station at York, to which they gave the name of Eboracum, from Ebora, a tojvn in Portugal, or Ebura, in Andalusia.| The plain fact appears to have been, that the locaUty where York now stands, was called by the ancient Britons Kaer, and that in aU probability it was as thickly inhabited as any * Nennius, Abbot of Bangor, wrote a History of the Britons in a.d. 620, which was published by Gale. Caer or Kaer is a British word, signifying Seat or City. + Gent says that tradition assures us that the Minster was buUt on the site of this Pagan Temple of Diana. } Sir Thomas Widdrington's MSS. 2 T 290 HISTORY OP THE CITY OP YOEK. other part of the island. And with respect to its general appearance we sup pose that it resembled the other fortresses or stations of the numerous tribes that inhabited the country. CsBsar (whose great boast was, and the glory that has been given to him, that he could wield his pen as well as his sword, and describe his battles as weU as he could win them) teUs us in his Com mentaries, that when he came to Britain, the builders knew nothing of building with stone, but called that a town which had a thick entangled wood, defended with a ditch and bank, about it. The Romans called this City Eboracum or Eburacum, but its present ap peUation, York, has given rise to much discussion, and a variety of conjecture prevails upon the subject. Leland and Camden are of opinion that the river Ouse was anciently caUed Ure, Ewe, or Youre (but this point is not clearly established), and that the Saxons added the termination idc. According to the author of " Restitution of Decayed InteUigence in Antiquities," the City of York was called Caer-Efroc by the ancient Britons, but its appeUation was changed by the Saxons to Ever-wyk, from the words ever or eber a wild boar, and wye a place of refuge or retreat. Its present name, he says, is obviously derived from Everwic, which by vulgar abbreviation became Voric and lastly York. If it could be proved that the river had formerly retained the name of Eure as low as the City, it would appear almost unquestionable that the name was derived from Eurewic, a place of retreat or strength on the Eure ; and the same might in popular pronunciation be readily corrupted to that of York. Worsac, the learned author of " The Danes and Northmen in Britain." gives the following derivation of the name York : — " The Briton called York, Caer Eabhroig or Eabhroic ; the Anglo-Saxons, Eoforwic ; and the Danes, Jorvik ; whence it is plain that the form York now in use is derived." In Domesday Book, York is called, Civitas Eborum, and Eurwic. Alcuin, a celebrated scholar in his time, and a native of York, writing near a thousand years ago, says, that the City was built by the Romans ; and he has left his testimony in Latin verse, of which the following is a translation ; • This City, first, by Eoman hand was form'd,, With lofty towers and high built walls adom'd; It gave their leaders a secure repose. Honour to th' empire, terror to their foes. Drake is of opinion that York was founded by the Romans. " It is probable to me," writes he, " that this City was first planned and fortified by Agricola, about A.D. 80, whose conquests in the island, stretched beyond York; and that that General built here a fortress to guard the frontiers after his return." HISTORY OF THE CITY OP SOEK. 991 The early importance of the place must unquestionably be attributed to the Romans who made it the Metropohs of their Empire in Britain. The buUders of it were probably the Roman soldiers themselves, who were accomplished masons, being trained to use the pick-axe, spade, and trowel, as weU as mili tary arms. They called it Civitas Brigantium, (the tifle of Civitas applied to Rome itself), as weU as Eboracum or Eburacum, The resemblance which York bore to the form of ancient Rome is rather remarkable. Fabius's plan of Rome represents it in the form of a bow, of which the Tiber was the string, as the Ouse may be said to be the bow-string of York. Like Rome, Eboracum, although entirely a mUitary colony, seems to have been governed both by military and municipal laws, for the Emperors themselves sometimes sat there in person in the Pnetorium, and from this chief tribunal gave laws to the whole Empire. York, therefore, may be re garded as the picture of Rome in miniature, and as possessing a just claim to the titles of " Brittanici Orbis, Roma Altera, Palatium Curise, and Prsetorium Csesaris," with which it is dignified by Alcuin.* " From the circumstance of the Ebor, now caUed the Ouse, running directly through the City," says Allen, " York was more capable of augmenting its commercial concerns than Isurium (now Aldborough, near Boroughbridge, the town or fortress supposed to have been the capital of the Brigantes, and afterwards a Roman Station), which was situated near the river Ure ; and also of furjiishing the Romans, who were peculiarly partial to their hot and cold baths, with an ample supply of water. Here then, doubtless, was the cause of preference; and hence it might receive a name indicative of its situation ; for although Urica and York are not exactly the same, if we recol lect the Romans were succeeded by the Saxons, the difference may be purely dialectic."f V/hen the Emperor Hadrian came into this island in a.d. 124, he took up his station at York, The Emperor Severus lived and held his Court in the Prsetorium Palace for more than three years, and he died there in the month of February, 211, (See page 66.) A rescript of law is stiU preserved in the Roman Code, issued by this Emperor from Eboracum, on the 3rd of the Nones of May, in the Consulate o'f Fustinus and Rufus, corresponding to the year 211, relating to the recovery of the right of possession of servants or Drake tells us, that at that period this City shene forth with meridian • Alcuin Ap. Leland CoU, 6, t Hist Yorks,, Book iii,, p, 4, 292 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YOEK. Splendour ; and that the concourse of tributary Kings, of foreign ambassa dors, and Roman nobles, which crowded the Courts of the Sovereigns of the world, when the Roman Empire was in its prime, elevated Eboracum to the height of sublunary grandeur. There was a Temple dedicated to BeUona, the goddess of war, erected at York before the time of Severus, which is supposed to have stood without Bootham Bar, near the ruins of St. Mary's Abbey. Before the Temple stood a small column, called the martial pillar, whence a spear was thrown when war was declared against an enemy. It may here be observed that Temples dedicated to BeUona, who was the sister of Mars, we^e not allowed to be erected, except in Rome or in the principal Cities of the Empire. In the next century Carausius caused himself to be proclaimed Emperor at York. Constantius or Constantine Chlorus, another Roman Emperor, held his Court for some tirae in the Imperial Palace at York, and died there in July, A.D. 306. His son and successor, Constantine ihe Great, has been erroneously believed by many writers to have been born at York. The precise place of the birth of Constantine is described by an ancient writer to be " Paterna in Eboracensi civitate." Hence probably the tradition that the first Christian Emperor was a native of this City. However that may have been, it is quite certain that he received the commands of his dying father at York, and that immediately after the death of Constantius, he was proclaimed Emperor by the army, and his inauguration took place there. (See page 59.) This ancient residence of the " Lords of the Universe" began to decline after the departure of Constantine, and in the reign of Theodosius the Younger, Rome and York both declined together. Roman Remains. — Of the splendour of the City during its occupation by the Romans, many vestiges have been discovered, and various remains of Roman architecture have been found ; though, considering the long residence of that people here, these antiquities are less numerous than might have been supposed, if we did not, as Baines says, " take into consideration that fire, sword, ignorance, and superstition, have aU contributed their assistance to the devouring hand of time, to erase the monuments which the imperial power had served to erect." "It may seem strange," continues the same writer, in his Gazetteer of Yorkshire, published in 1823, " that we have not to show any Temples, Amphitheatres, or Palaces, whose edifices must once have made Eboracum shine with distinguished lustre ; but the wonder wUl cease when in the following pages we trace such horrid destruction of every thing both sacred and profane. To our Christian ancestors we owe much of history op THE CITY OF YORK. 5i93 this destruction ; their holy zeal rendered them anxious to eradicate every vestige of paganism; and the Roman altars and votive monuments were naturally enough consigned to destruction under their Gothic hands." Mr. Drake, in the appendix to his Eboracum, gives a catalogue of the coins, as weU as many other Roman antiquities, found in York. Dr. Langwith sent Drake a catalogue of Roman coins from Augustus down to Gratianus, one hundred and twenty-four different sorts, all found in York. They are chiefly of the Lower Empire; and amongst them Geta's are the most com mon of any. A great quantity of signets, fibulse, urns, and sarcophagi have been dug up and recovered here through a period of fifteen centuries. Cam den, Burton, Drake, Thoresby, Hargrove, and other antiquaries, have des cribed some of the most remarkable of them. Almost all the memorials of the Romans, which have presented them selves here, have been found by digging ; few of them have been discovered above ground; so that it may be justiy said that modern York stands upon ancient Eboracum. A part of a tower and wall are yet standing in York, which are undoubt edly of Roman erection. This building is now known as the Multangular Tower, and the wall which leads from it towards Bootham Bar. The tower and waU wiU be fuUy described at a subsequent page of this volume. When digging in the north aisle of the Church of St. Cuthbert, and also on the north side of the churchyard, there have often been found Roman tiles and several fragments of sepulchral antiquities. In some parts have also been discovered, at the depth of five feet, quantities of ashes and charcoal, intermixed with human bones and broken urns, paterae, &c. On the sepul chral tiles, which have been dug up here, was stamped Leg IX. Hisp. The foundations of a very strong wall have likewise been traced in this church yard, in the direction from S.S.E. to N.N.W. This waU appears to be re mains of a Roman or some very ancient building. The remains of a Ro man waU were discovered by the workmen, whUst clearing a foundation for the present wall behind the Grand Jury room in York Castie, about fifty years ago, and upon the ancient foundation of that waU they raised the new oue. Nearly two centuries ago a theca or repository for ums of a Roman family was dug up here, but it was so little regarded at York, that in time it found its way to Hull, where it served as a trough for watering horses at a public Inn ! The inscription was partly obliterated, but it amounted to this — That Marcus Verecundus Diogenes, a native of Berri, in Gascoigny, and a Sevir 294 HISTORY OF THE CITY OP YOEK. or Magistrate of the Roman Colony of York, died there ; who, while living, made this monument for himself. The size of the theca was very large, being six feet long and three feet deep, and the stone was of a millstone grit. In digging the foundation of a house on Bishop-hiU the Elder, in 1638, a small but elegant altar, with figures in basso relievo of sacrificing instru ments, &c., on the side, was found, which was presented to Charles I., when at York, by Sir Ferdinando Fairfax. The altar bears a heathen inscription, which may be thus translated. — " To the great and mighty Jupiter, and to all gods and goddesses, household and peculiar, Publius Aelius Marcianus, prefect of cohort, for the preservation of his own health and that of his family, dedicated this altar to the great preserver.'' The King ordered this interesting relic to be conveyed to the Manor House, where it remained some time; but Sir Thomas Widdrington, Recorder of the City, who resided at Lendal, afterwards had it in his possession ; and it was lastly seen at the house of Lord Thomas Fairfax, in York, where it remained till the desertion of the house by his son-in-law the Duke of Buckingham, since which time no trace of it can be discovered. This is the earliest recorded discovery of a Roman altar at York, In 1688 a very curious sepulchral monument was dug up in Trinity- Gardens, near Micklegate, The stone, which is almost six feet high and two feet broad and angular in form at the top, has carved upon it the figure of a Roman Signifer or Standard-bearer, standing in an arched recess, having in his right hand the Signum or Standard of a cohort, and in his left, probably, the vessel used in measuring the corn, which was a part of the Roman soldiers pay. Near the bottom is the foUowing inscription : — L-DVCCIVS L-VOLTFEVFFI NVS-VIEN SIGNIF'LEG-VIIII AN-XXIIX H"S'E which Horsley reads thus: Lucius Duccius Lucii Voltinia (Tribu) fiUus Ruffinus, Viennensis signifer Legionis nonse annorum viginti octo, hic situs est. i. e. Lucius Duccius Ruffinus, son of Lucius, of the Voltinian tribe, of Vienna, standard-bearer of the Njnth Legion, aged twenty-eight, is placed ^buried) here. This remarkable reUo was saved by Byran Fairfax, Esq., from demolition by the workmen who had broken it in the middle, and were about to make HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 295 use of it in a stone-waU which they were erecting. It was afterwards re moved .to Ribstone Hall, near Wetherby, by Sir Henry Goodrick, who first placed it in his own garden, and subsequentiy removed it to a more appro priate situation in the Chapel yard. It is now in the Museum of the York shire Philosophical Society, having been presented by J. Dent, Esq., of Ribstone. We are told by Mr. Drake that on the removal of a house in Friars' Gar dens, near Toft Green, in the month of August, 1770, part of the foundation of a Temple of Roman brick-work was found about two feet beneath the surface of the earth. It was so firmly cemented by the mortar peculiar to Roman edifices, as to resist the stroke of a pick-axe, and its form was semi circular; the other part being, as he supposed, under an adjoining dwelUng. Upon or near tp this foundation was discovered a dedicatory tablet of grit stone, three feet long, two feet one inch broad, and seven inches thick, bearing the foUowing inscription, and some curious emblematic carved work in very fine preservation : DEO-SANCTO SERAPI TEMPLVM-ASO LO-FECIT CL-HIERONY MIANVS-LEG LEG-VI-VIO This inscription denotes that " Claudius Hieronymianus, Legate or Lieu tenant of the Sixth Legion Victorious, had erected from the foundations a Temple to the Holy God Serapis.* There is no doubt that this tablet had been fixed in the front of that Temple, and it was long supposed that the Temple itself stood on the spot -where the foundations and the tablet were founds — namely, the end of Tanner Row, near the spot now occupied by the entrance to the North Eastern Railway Station. Nothing more was dis covered to further develope the site of the Temple of Serapis tUl the year * Serapis was a great Egyptian deity, known by the three names of Osiris, Apis, and Serapis. Memphis, Alexandria, Canopus, and Athens, had each a magnificent Temple dedicated to this idol, and his worship was introduced also at Eome, by the Emperor Antoninus Pius, a.d. 146 ; thence no doubt it had been brought into this country by the Eomans, and thus had occasioned the erection of a Temple sacred to it in the then splendid City of Eboracum. Mr. Pegge refers the inscription on this tablet to the time of Hadrian or earlier ; and adds that several coins of Nerva, Trajan, and Hadrian, were found along with it This curious memorial of Eoman idolatry, is now in the Yorkshire Museum, 296 HISTORY OP THE CITY OF YORK. 1837, when the excavations were commenced for the York and North Mid land Railway (now called the North Eastern) Station. At the beginning of these excavations Mr. Hargrove, the author of the History qf York, feeling anxious to watch and keep an account of every discovery of the remains of other times, attended near the workmen early and late, and after having secured many valuable Roman relics, had the satisfaction to find and pre serve a beautiful tesselated pavement, in the centre of which was the repre sentation of a singular flgure, the fore part of which pourtrayed the head, body, and forelegs of an ox, the hind part representing the twisted tail of a large flsh.* This interesting discovery at once removed every doubt respecting the Temple of Serapis. The blending of the worship of two gods in one Temple was no uncommon occurrence amongst the idolatrous nations, and here was evidently a blending of two heathen deities — Serapis, the God of Agriculture, and Neptune, the God of the Sea — the inference being exhibited in the position of each representation. The remains of foundations of an oblong room, in which this pavement was found, were evident ; the breadth of which was twelve feet, but the length could not be so clearly ascertained. At the north end was a large raised stone, forming a sort of table or altar, which was preserved. A passage at the south-west side of the room evidently led to the public baths behind. In an account of similar temples at Thebes, and other places, it is stated that there is always observable a small oblong room, which was the adytum or sanctuary, i. e., the apartment which contained the flgure of the deity, and in which the priests performed those sacrifices and other rites, which were not meant for the public gaze. Its dimensions were very insignificant, but it was always surrounded by stupendous erections of various kinds, col onnades, courts, &c., with apartments for the abode of the priests. The room and pavement of the Temple of Serapis were found opposite to Barker Lane, which is some distance up the street of Tanner Row, and nearly opposite to Trinity Church ; and the remains of Roman foundations which Mr. Hargrove afterwards discovered and measured, as well as sub sequent discoveries nearer to Micklegate Bar, prove beyond a doubt that the Temple had been very extensive ; occupying the higher part of the ground where Tanner Row had been built in subsequent times, and ranging with its outbuildings from the bar to the place where the pavement above-described was found. It is possible that the fragment found in 1770 may have been a * A plate of this curious pavement from a drawing by Mr. WiUiam Wallace Hargrove, has been pubUshed. HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 297 part of the Temple of Serapis, but it was a very trifling portion comparatively speaking. In 1814 a Roman tesselated pavement was discovered close to the rampart near Micklegate Bar, and another elegant floor of this beautiful Mosaic work was found in 1853, towards the upper part of Tanner Row.* Mr. Hargrove thinks it highly probable that these pavements had been connected with the above-mentioned Temple or its appendages, for the remains of the public baths, which were afterwards found, were between the Temple and the Bar waUs.* In excavating for a ceUar in Ousegate, not far from what Mr. WeUbeloved supposes to be the south-east angle of the wall of ancient Eboracum, a frag ment of a dedicatory Roman tablet was found, and is now in the Museum. The ediflce to which it was affixed appears to have been dedicated to the deities of Augustus, and to a goddess whose name or title is lost. Of the name of the person who erected the Temple, the termination SIVS only remains. NVMINIB AVG ET DEAE lOV... SrVS AEDEM PRO PARTE D... At the same time, and in the same place, was discovered a fragment of a tablet, which recorded the restoration of a Temple, dedicated to Hercules probably by one Titus Perpetuus. The remains of the inscription are — HERCVL.... TTERPET... AETEE . . EBVE . . RES. In the year 1716 a curious antique bust, five inches high by four in breadth, representing the head of a beautiful female, was found in digging a ceUar near the ruins of St. Mary's Abbey. Gale, the antiquary, finding it bore the marks of Roman origin, and knowing that the Romans had not • These two pavements wUl be described at a subsequent page. * The pavement rescued by Mr. Hargrove — and to whose kindness we are indebted for the foregoing description of it — ^together with the other antique remains with whioh his labour and attention to the above-mentioned excavations have been repaid ; as well as a large coUection of other objects of interest which he had during twenty preceding years coUected in York, have been transferred to the Museum of the Yorkshire Philo sophical Society, of which he is a member. A minute description of his whole coUection by himself would be interesting. 2 Q 298 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. any goddess in their system of theology, supposed it had been designed to represent the head of Lucretia, the Roman matron, whose wrongs expeUed the Tarquins. In Clifton fields, without Bootham Bar, several sarcophagi, or stone tombs, and a great quantity of ums of different colours and sizes, have been found. Amongst them were two coffins, dug up in March, 1813, each containing a skeleton entire, with the teeth — the most imperishable part of man when dead, and the most liable to decay when living — completely perfect. These two last-mentioned tombs or coffins, which are unusuaUy large, measuring seven feet four inches in length, two feet three inches in breadth, and one foot ten inches in depth, and of thick light-coloured grit, are now in the north aisle of the choir of the Cathedral. Each coffin is covered with a Ud, curi ously made in the form of the roof of a modern dwelling house.* The field in which they were discovered is nearly opposite to Burton Stone, at Clifton, in which neighbourhood the principal burial-place of the Romans, who for merly inhabited this City, was situated. Campus Martus, anciently without the City of Rome, was the place where the funeral piles were lighted to con sume the deceased Romans, and the presumption is that Clifton fields formed the Campus Martus of Eboracum. In Drake's Antiquities, Bootham Bar is mentioned as being the gate which led tu some grand depository of their dead near Clifton vUlage. The various sepulchral remains have principally been found near Mickle gate and Bootham Bars, in the neighbourhood of which respectively ran the old Roman roads to Calcarea (Tadeaster) and Isurium (Aldborough). These were probably therefore the principal cemeteries of Eboracum, the Romans invariably choosing the wayside of the principal thoroughfares, beyond the walls of their Cities, for the' burial of their dead. About the year 1734 a smaU figure of a penate, or household god (Saturn), was found by a person digging for a cellar in Walmgate ; the composition of • Sepulchral chests made of stone are much more rare in Eoman burial-places than those formed of tiles. They are generally very massive, formed out of a solid stone, and covered with a roof-shaped or flat Ud. Massive chests or sarcophagi of this description appear, from their forms and inscriptions to have stood above ground, and they present a very peculiar mode of sepulture. After the body had been laid, apparentiy in full dress, on its back at the bottom of the sarcophagus, liquid lime was poured in until the whole of the body was covered, except the face. This becoming hard has preserved to a certain degree an impression of the form of the body, of which the skeleton is often found entire. Several fine examples of this mode of sepulture may be seen in the grounds and Museum of the Yorkshu-e PhUosophical Society. It is remarkable that the Eomau tombs with interments of this description found at York, generally contained the remains of ladies. HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 299 which the image is formed is a mixture of metal, and the workmanship ex hibits all the elegance of a Roman mould. About the year 1740 two very curious Roman urns were dug up near the Mount without Micklegate Bar. One of them was made of glass, and being by accident broken in pieces, the inside of it was found to be coated with a sUver-coated substance, termed by philosophers, the electrum of the ancients. The other um was of lead, and was sold by the workmen to an ignorant plumber, who immediately beat it together and melted it down. A pedestal of grit was also found in the same year, at no great distance from Micklegate Bar. It measured two feet high by ten inches in breadth, and bore the fol lowing Roman inscription : BEITANNI.E SANCTJL PNIKOMEDES AUGG. N. N. LIBEETOS. A Roman sepulchre of singular form was found in 1768, by some labourers who were preparing a piece of ground for a garden, near the City walls, west of the same Bar. It was formed of Roman tiles, built up in the form of a roof, and making a triangle with the ground below. On the top was a covering of semicircular tUes, of small diameter, so close as to prevent the least particle of earth from falling into the cavity, and each end of the dormi tory was closed with a tile, on which was inscribed Leg. IX. His., being doubtless the burying-place of a soldier of the Legio nono Hispanica. A sculptured tablet, representing thc sacrifice and mysteries of Mithras, was found in 1747, in digging for a ceUar in a house in Micklegate, opposite St. Martin's Church. Mithras is the Greek form of the Persian word signi fying the Sun, the chief object of worship among the Persians and other ancient eastern nations. This reUc of idolatry is now in the entrance hall of the Museum. In 1770, as some workmen were digging a drain from the north east corner of Davygate, to the corner of Lendal, they discovered the foundation of three waUs or buttresses, about seven feet below the surface of the ground. They were from nine feet and a half to eleven feet and a half broad, about three feet distant from each other, and were composed of pebbles strongly cemented, the open space between the walls being securely fiUed with clay. Gough, the annotator of Camden says, that they were supposed to have been built by the Romans, to prevent the Ouse from overflowing the City. In the same year were found in a gravel pit on the banks pf the Ouse, about 300 HISTOEY OF THE CITY OF YOEK. one mile and a half east of the City, a number of ancient remains, consisting of fragments of Roman earthenware and paterae (goblets), and within the com pass of about fifty yards were likewise discovered a perfect urn with its cover, and many more pieces of paterae and urns, some very large vessels, part of an urn of crystal, an iron flesh fork, &c. At the same time and place a strange discovery was made, of which Mr. Gough gives us the particulars. A stratum of oyster shells appeared to have been laid about two feet, in some parts three feet, and in others nearly flve feet, helow the surface, and above them was a sort of rich black earth, like soot mixed with oil, among which were found pieces of burnt wood. Upon this singular substance were scattered great numbers of bones of cattle, chiefly heads and ribs. Many heads of beasts were laid together in one part ; and in several other parts were bones mixed with earth and fragments of earthen vessels. Near to these, about three feet below the present surface, the earth was discoloured and greasy, as though it had been soaked with blood to the depth of two feet. In the following year 1771, a similar discovery was made in another gravel pit not far from the former, and the particulars of which are also given by Mr. Gough. "Within this pit, between layers of earth and gravvel," writes he, "was Another of black earth intermixed with burnt wood, and under it a layer of oyster shells. In the middle of the pit was a hillock of the same strata, mixed with fragments of ums, some inscribed Ofroni, Caivs, &o. Some of the larger ones and of the paterae were adorned with vine and ivy branches, &c." In this pit were also found a number of antique remains, amongst which were a flesh fork, a brass needle, various fragments of ums, a large iron bolt, a whole patera with ears, some others broken, and a smaU urn of coarse red clay with a cover of blueish clay. These remains favour the opinion that a Roman Temple had stood in that locality, and that these were the remains of the sacrifloes offered in the dark ages of pagan idolatry. Drake mentions a Roman tablet which was discovered in digging a ceUar in " Conyng Street," in the line of the Roman wall. It is now in the Museum, and is inscribed : GENIO LOCI FELICITER that is, "To the Genius of the place, happily," or "prosperously." The Genius was the proteoting spirit pf a person or a place. The place in this instance was most probably that ocpupied hy Eboracum ; and the inscription is a short wish or prayer that the genius would be propitious to Eboracum. Mr. Thoresby, the Leeds antiquary, was living when this monument was found, and in an account of it which he sent to the Royal Society he says — HISTORY OF THE CITY OP YOEK. 301 after describing it and its inscription, " If the name (of the genius) had been added, it would have gratifled the curiosity of some of our neoteric antiquaries. But they must yet acquiesce, for aught I know, in their old Dvi, who is said to be the tutelar deity of the City of the Brigantes. The author of this votive monument," he continues, " seems to have had the same superstitious veneration for the genius of York, as those at Rome had for theirs, whose name they were prohibited to mention or enquire after. Hence it is that upon their coins the name of this deity is never expressed but in a mere popular manner, by Genius P.R., or Pop. Rom" A massive brass flagon was also turned up by the plough, in a fleld near York, weighing seventeen pounds four and a half ounces, and calculated to contain five modern pints. This vessel stood on three legs, and the top of the Ud exhibited a head or face, apparently connected with the heathen mythology. A smaU Roman votive altar of stone, six inches high, and six inches in breadth at the base, bearing a Roman inscription, somewhat impaired by time, but from which it appears that this relic was dedicated by a soldier of the Sixth Legion to the mother of the Emperor Antonius Pius, was found in Micklegate by the workmen, while digging a drain in the middle of the street. Several other Roman remains were discovered with this altar, about eight or ten feet below the surface ; and the workmen met with two or three firm pave ments of pebbles, one below another, beneath which were several fragments of beautiful red glazed paterae, adorned with figures of gods, birds, and vines, and one of them inscribed ianvf; there were also several smaU altars and an earthen lamp, with some Roman coins of Constantine the Great. The following remains have been found in the present century, and for ages yet to come the inexhaustible mines of antiquarian wealth on which the City of York stands, wiU doubtless yield their contributions to the cabinets of the curious. In June, 1802, the workmen, while digging for the foundations of the new gaol, near the site of the Old Bailie Hill, found about one hundred silver pennies of WiUiam the Devastator, in good preservation, though it is probable that they had lain in the ground nearly eight centuries. According to Leland, a Castle anciently stood on this site. The most venerable sepul chral remains which 'have been presented to the antiquary for many years, were discovered in September, 1804, by the workmen while digging a large drain in the Minster Yard, from south to west of the Cathedral, After pas sing through a stratum of human bones, under which were two coffins, hoUowed out of the solid stone, the workmen came to eleven or twelve coffins, each formed of stone (apparently from the quarries of Malton), loosely placed 302 HISTOEY OF THE CITY OF YORK. together, without cement or fastening. Each of these coffins was covered with a rough flag, four inches thick, under which skeletons were found laid on the bare earth, the coffins being without bottoms. The situation being wet, some of the coffins contained a quantity of clear water, through which the skeletons appeared entire, but when the water was removed, and the bodies were exposed to the air, they crumbled into dust. The singular form of these coffins ; the rough manner in which they were constructed ; and their depth in the earth, prove their great antiquity, and confirm the belief that they were vestiges not merely of Roman or Saxon times, but that they contain remains of our aboriginal ancestors. On Monday, the 17th of August 1807, whUe the workmen were preparing the foundation for a building near the Mount, in the suburbs of York, a Roman sepulchral vault or chamber was discovered about four feet from the surface, which was eight feet long by five feet wide, and six feet high, built pf stone and arched over with Roman brick. A coffin of rag-stone grit, about seven feet long, occupies nearly the whole of the vault, and in the coffin is a human skeleton entire, with the teeth complete, supposed to be the remains of a Roman lady, consigned to the mansion of the dead from fourteen to seventeen centuries ago. Near the scuU, which is remarkably small, was found a smaU phial or lachrimatory, in which vessels the ancients are said to have deposited the tears which they shed for their departed friends. The workmen also found at the same time, not far from the vault, a large red coloured urn, in which were ashes and the partially burnt bones of a human body. This ancient sepulchre, together with the skeleton, is StiU preserved in its original state, for the inspection of the curious, and the house which contains it is now in the occupation of Mr. George Flower. About the beginning of the present century several Roman fragmentary remains were found at the Mount, near York ; amongst them was part of a coffin bearing the following inscription : — ME . . . . AL'THEODOEI ANI" .OMEN-VrXIT-ANN XXX'VM'VI. EMI'THEO D. .A- MATEE-E-C We learn from this inscription, though it contains some difficulties to an interpreter, that it was designed to preserve the memory of Theodorianus, of Nomentum (probably), who lived thirty-four years and six months, by his mother Theodora. Also a fragment of a monumental tablet, containing the foUowing portion of the original inscription : — • HISTOEY OF THE CITY' OF YOEK. 803 ....O-C-FIL ...O-VAEIA X-HISP-HEEE ....•PATEONO ...-ENTI-FECEEVNT A grateful tribute, it is probable, paid to a patron by some person who had received from him their freedom. An infant's feeding bottle was also found near the Mount, and is now in the Museum. In 1813 two stone coffins, seven feet in length, three feet wide, and six inches thick, were dug up in a gravel pit near Fulford Church, in each of which was a human skeleton, and a small quantity of a white substance re sembUng lime saturated with grease. These coffins are each cut out of a solid block of stone. In excavating for the Railway, near the bridge in Holdgate Lane, a Roman altar was found. It has no inscription, but as it bears the figures of three females, it is supposed to have been dedicated to the Dese Matres, or Matronae, female deities, three in number, supposed to have been introduced into Britain by the German auxiUaries. These three figures are represented on the front of the altar, sitting in a recess ; on the right side of the altar is a single male figure, and on the left two male figures. These are thought to have been designed to represent the Emperor Septimus Severus, and his sons CaracaUa and Geta. The fourth side, which is much defaced, seems to have been the representation of an altar, and an animal standing before it. This antique reUc of pagan Eboracum is now deposited in the Museum. In the excavations at the same place a coffin was found, bearing the foUowing in scription : — D-M'SIMPLIOIAE-PLOEENTINE ANIME INNOCENTISSIMB QVE VIXIT MENSES DEOEM FELICIVS-SIMPLEX-PATEE-FECIT L-E-G-vrv " To the Gods, the Manes.* To Simplicia Florentina, a most innocent being, Felicius Simplex, her father, of the Sixth Legion Victorious, dedicated this." No mother's name appears, says Mr. WeUbeloved, " a circumstance which suggests the probability of the birth of this darling child having been marked * The word Manes denotes the souls of the departed, " but as it is a natural tendency to consider the sonls of departed friends as blessed spirits, they were called by the Ro mans Du Manes, and were worshipped with divine honours.'' 304 HISTOEY OF THE CITY OF YOEK. by a lamentable event that gives stiU greater interest to this tribute of pater nal affection." This altar, together with the whole of the foUowing antiqui ties, forms part of the valuable coUection in the Museum at York. In the excavation for the same raUway, part of a sepulchral monument was turned up. The letter M alone, denoting " Manibus,'' remains. An altar was recently discovered in the rubble foundation under one of the piUars of the Church of St. Dennis, Walmgate, York, inscribed : — DEO. AECIACON ET N- AVGSI MAT -VITALIS OED V S- LM- Which may be read thus, DEO Aroiacon et Numini Augusti Simatius Vitalis Ordovix Votum solvit Ubens merito, i. e. " To the God Arciacon and to the Divinity of Augustus, Simatius Vitalis, one of the Ordovices, discharges his vow wUlingly, deservedly," — namely, by dedicating this altar. There is nothing in the inscription to indicate its date. An altar was found in the Roman Baths, discovered in excavating the site of the Railway Station. The inscription is — DEAE FORTVNAB SOSIA IVNCINA Q- ANTONI ISAVHIOI LEG- AVG- Rendered thus — " To the Goddess Fortune, by Socia Juncina, the daughter of Quintus Antonius Isauricus, of the Legion Augusta." This altar must have been erected here during the first half of the second century of the Christian era, as the Legion Augusta, which came into Britain with Claudius, took up its head-quarters at Caerlon, in South Wales, after it had been in the north with Hadrian and Antoninus Pius. In 1835 two coffins were found in the Castie yard, York, one of which bears this inscription : — D'M AVR- SVPEEO- CENT LEG- VI- QVrVIXITANIS XXXVIII- Mini- DXIII- AVEE LIA- CENSOEINA- COI-VUX MEMOEIAM- POSSVIT HISTOEY OP THE CITY OP YORK. 305 " To the Gods, the Manes. To the memory of Aurelius Superus, a Cen turion of the Sixth Legion, who lived xxxiii. years, iv. months, xiii. days, Aurelia Censoria his wife set up this.'' In 1810 several fragmentary remains of the Roman period were found below one of the piers at the south end of the old bridge over the Ouse, in York. A very singular and remarkable Roman tomb was discovered in 1848, not far from the entrance through the City waU to the Railway Station. It was composed of ten large slabs of grit stone, and contained the remains of a body, which had been placed in a coffin of wood, and covered with lime. The coffin had almost entirely perished, but the lime remained, exhibiting a cast of the body, over which it had been poured. This cast is deposited in the Museum, and the tomb is in the ruins of the Chapel of St. Leonard's Hospital. In 1833 a tomb was discovered near Dringhouses, on the road to Tad- caster, formed of roof tiles and ridge tiles, which bear the impress of the Sixth Legion ; erected, it is probable, over the ashes of a soldier of that Le gion. It contained nothing but a layer of the remains of a funeral pile, consisting of charcoal and bones, with several iron nails. A tomb pf the same kind, but of smaUer dimensions, was found not far from the City waUs, near the entrance to the Railway Station. It was probably the tomb of a soldier of the Ninth Legion, the tiles being stamped Leg IX. In 1831 a Roman tomb or coffin was discovered in Heslington field, about a mile firom York. It contained some few remains of the body of a female, which had been covered with lime in a liquid state. This lime, which ex hibits a cast of the body, together with some trinkets imbedded in it, may be seen in the Museum. The coffin is deposited in the Multangular Tower. A plain altar was found in a garden in Lord Mayor's Walk, some years ago ; and another smaU plain altar was discovered in 1851, by a person dig ging for sand, in a lane on the south side of Dunnington Common, near York. Amongst the many relics of the Roman period which were discovered during the excavations for the Railway, are the remains of Roman baths, which presented themselves whilst clearing the site of the Station. There is a curious model of these remains in the Museum. In 1841 the relics of a human body, which had been deposited in lime in a Uquid state, was found in a stone coffin near the entrance through the rampart to the Railway Sta tion. The remains of another body, with the leaden coffin in which it had been buried, were also found near the terminus of the Railway, as well as three smaller coffins of lead, containing the bones of children; and the whole were deposited in the Museum. In 1849 some burnt wheat was found in 2 R 306 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORE. Jubbergate, at the depth of sixteen feet below the Surface, on the site, it is supposed, of a Roman granary which had been destroyed by fire. In July, 1851, a Roman coffin was found about three feet below the sur face, near Skeldergate Postern, by the side of the road leading to Bishop thorpe. It contained a cast of the bodies of a female and a chUd, now deposited in the Museum. The body of the child appears to have been placed, as the impression of the lime represents it, between the legs of the woman, who was probably its mother. The garments in which they were buried appear to have been ornamented with crimson or purple stripes, of a texture something like velvet or plush ; portions of the coloured fibre being found adhering to the lime. On the site of the office of the Yorkshire Insurance Company, amongst the foundations of buildings, was found, some years ago, part of a drain, which is interesting as a specimen of Roman isewerage; and as being iUustrative of the Roman method of constructing waUs of alternate courses of brick and stone. At Aldborough, the site of the ancient Isurium, nnmerous specimens of tesselated pavements have often been found, but it was not till the year 1814 that any remains of this kind were discovered in York. In the month of April in that year a beautiful specimen of this Mosaic work was laid bare, adjoining the rampart, in Bar Lane, near Micklegate Bar. It appeared to have been four yards square, and for some years it was enclosed and pre served on the spot upon which it was discovered, and exhibited ito the curious. This being the first Roman tesselated pavement found in this ancient Roman City, a beautiful coloured engravuig of it was published by Mt. Fowler, of Winterton, and weU it was that he did so, for the Oorporaition (having pur chased the property upon which it stood) presented it to the Yorkshire Philo sophical Society, and it was broken inlo fragments in its removal to the Museum, and but very little of it was preserved. The spot upon which it was laid is now the soil pit of the Jolly Bacchus public house. Mr. Har grove, as we have already observed, thinks that this and the next pavement to be noticed had been connected with the great Roman Temple of Serapis. In Toft iGtreen, not far from the site of the last-mentioned ancient flooring, another beautiful Roman tesselated pavement was discovered, fourteen feet below the present surface, in 1853. It is nearly perfect, and measures four teen feet three inches square. When perfect, the pattern was chiefly com posed of the common labyrinthine fret, aind flve heads ; one in the centre representing Medusa, and four in the corners personifying the four Seasons eif the year — Spring, with its feathered songsster; Summer, with its .flowers HISTOEY OP THE QITY OP YORK. 307 and fruit ; Autumn, with its hay rake ; and Winter, with its dry and leafless branch. Immediately beneath it were found an empty um, covered with a square tile ; a coin, first brass of Hadrian, and a third brass coin of Claudius Gothicus, with the legend DIVO. CLAVDIO on the obverse ; proving that this pavement was not laid down before a.d. 270, the year in which Claudius died. About twelve or fourteen inches below this pavement, a floor, com posed of cement, was found, on which were scattered many tessellae, finished and unfinished, and a piece of iron, conjectured to be a tool used in shaping them. So partial were the Romans to tesselated pavements, that it was customary with them, when on a march, to be accompanied with a man, who was styled tesserarius, or chequerman, from carrying a sack with tesseree, or chequered dies of coloured stones, with which he paved or inlaid the platform where the commanding officer thought fit to pitch his tent. Near the line of the York and Newcastle RaUway, on the site of the house erected for the residence of the Secretary, was found, in the year 1840, up wards of two hundred Roman silver coins, which, with the vessel in which they were deposited, are now in the Yorkshire Museum. Five of them are of the Consular or Family series, much worn, and illegible ; eighteen are denarii of some of the early Emperors ; the rest range from Septimus Severus to M. Jul. PhUippus, Many belonging to the later Emperors appea,r to ha,ve heen cast in moulds, and not to have been in circulation. In the month of September, 1854, the workmen employed in sinking a shaft for constructing a deep drain in Church Street, cut through what was considered to be a Remap. WaU, and in the centre discovered a leaden pipe six feet long, about four inches and a half diameter inside, jnade of very thick lead, in a peculiar manner, with a socket on the outside to join to the pipe. A few d^ys aftervyards, whilst excavating for a branch drain in the same street, the workmen laid bare the remainder of the supposed Roms^ii WaU, when it was found to be a mass of concrete, a^out four feet thick, extending round tJie leaden pipe, in all probability to keep the pipe from settUng unevenly and to protect it from injury. About nine feet more of thp lead piping was obtained. It has no doubt been used to convey water. Near it some Roman draining tUes were also found, which were very pro bably to take away the waste water from some bath. The pipe and tiles, together with the above-mentioned specimen of Roman drainage, may be seen at the Museum. In a few days after the discovery of this leaden pipe, the workmen em ployed in digging a large and deep drain from Monk Bar to the river 0«se, 308 HISTORY OP THE CITY OP YOEK. discovered, at the junction of Goodramgate and Petergate, at the depth of twenty-three feet below the surface, a slab of grey limestone, measuring in its present state three feet nine inches square, bearing the foUowing inscription : — P-CAESAI EEVAE - FIL • NI NVS - AVG • GEE NTIFEX • MAXIMV TESTATIS - XII - IMP • V PEE - LEG - Villi • HI The Rev. C. WeUbeloved, in a communication to the Yorkshire Philoso phical Society, pronounced the inscription, when perfect, to have been — IMP - CAESAE NEEVAE - FIL - NEE - TEA lANUS - AVG ¦ GEEM PONTIFEX • MAXIMVS - TE POTESTATIS - XII • IMP - VI PEE -LEG - Villi - HISP and he translates it thus : — " The Emperor Csesar, son of Nerva, Nerva Trajanus Augustus Germanicus, High Priest, invested for the sixth time with the Tribunitian power, saluted for the sixth time Imperator, erected, (this building) by the Ninth Legion, called Hispanica (Spanish)." " The invest ment of Trajan with those honours," he adds, " synchronizes with a.d. 109, 110. At that time then, as we learn from this tablet, the Ninth Legion, which came into Britain with Claudius in the year 43, and formed part of the forces of Agricola when he subdued the Brigantes in the year 79, was at 'Eboracum employed by Trajan, who never was in Britain, in the erection of public buildings." In the Pictorial Bible, at page 469 of vol. iv., is a representation of the triumphal arch of Trajan, at Benevento, on which is a very similar inscrip tion. It runs thus : — IMP CAESAE - DIVINEEVAB - EILIO NEEVAE - TEAIANO - OPTIMO • AVC GEEMANICO - DACICO - PONT ¦ MAX ' TEIB POTEST - XVIII - IMP - VII - CONS - VII - PP. POETISSIMO - PEINCIPI . SENATVS - P ' 0 - E To what pubUc building the stone found at Yprk was affixed, cannot now HISTOEY OP THE CITY OP YOEK. 309 be ascertained. Mr. WeUbeloved thinks that it may have been that gate of the ancient Roman station which is supposed to have stood very near the spot in which it was found. And this suggests an important question — Was the ancient Eboracum, or Eburacum, as Mr. WeUbeloved has it, fortified with a wall at that early period ? The place in which this tablet was dis covered is the one which traditibn has assigned as part of the site of the Roman Praetorium or Palace at York,, The precise spot at which it was found was formerly called King's Court, and stUl more anciently, Konyng Garth (the word Konyng signifying royal or kingly) ; and at this point was probably in the time of Trajan the grand entrance to the Imperial Palace, The period of the erection of the tablet is fixed by the inscription itself at the year of our Lord 110, or thereabouts, and shews indisputably that the Emperor Trajan was then acknowledged as Emperor at York. It is deserving of re mark that the letters on the first Une of the inscription are six inches long, and that they have been cut by a first-rate artist, and the grandeur and im portance of the buUding, to which the tablet was once attached, may be judged of from the care and skill which have obviously been devoted to the inscription. Trajan was one of the best, and most just and lenient of the Roman Emperors. May we not then, with some show of reason, suppose that this elegant tablet once graced or surmounted the entrance to the Court yard of the Palace ? The inscription is not dissimilar to that which adorns the famous " Trajan column" at Rome ; and it has been well remarked by one of the local journals, that time and the effects of atmospheric variations have contributed to tarnish the original perfection of the inscription at Rome, whilst the lettering of what remains to us at York, upon the newly discovered tablet, is as clear, and as fresh, and as perfect, as it was on the day when, upwards of seventeen hundred years ago, it left the hand of the talented en graver, and was put up at York by the gallant Ninth Legion of imperial Rome. This tablet is the most ancient, as weU as the most authentic, of the records which have ever yet been discovered of the Roman occupation of this City. It is a valuable discovery, inasmuch as it fixes a precise period when the Legio Nono Hispanica (Ninth Spanish Legion) was in York. But Uttle is known of that corps. In the reign of Nero it was nearly destroyed at Camuldunum (Colchester), by the British forces under the celebrated Queen Boadicea. Tacitus informs us that it was afterwards recruited from Germany, but it again suffered severely in the fierce attack of the Caledonians, at the time when JuUus Agricola was Propraetor and Legate at York. The inscription upon the recentiy discovered tablet shows pretty plainly that this legion was stationed at York in the time of the Emperor Trajan, and that the tablet 310 HISTOEY OP THE CITY OF YOEK, itself was raised by that legion. This corps being weak in number at the time of the arrival in York of the Sixth Conquering Legion, it is supposed to have been incorporated with that legion. In the course of the excavations near the place where the above-mentioned tablet was found, the workmen turned up many Roman tiles, some of which bear the stamp of the Ninth Legion. Th^ tablet and tiles are deposited in the Museum. In the year 1866, the workmen employed in draining opera tions found two stone coffins in Monkgate, near the bottom of Lord Mayor's Walk. A Roman leaden coffin was lately discovered in a brickyard in Layer- thorpe, near the spot in which, a few years ago, a Roman stone coffin was found. It lay seven feet below the surface, and from, the naUs and fragments of wood found with it, appears to have been enclosed in a coffin of that ma terial. It is five feet six inches long, and very narrow, containing a skeleton, at present enveloped in mud, supposed to be that of a young person. It has a leaden lid, but there is no soldering nor any description of ornament in any part of it. This coffin is now in the Museum. Besides- the relics of the Roman period already noticed, a great many fragments of monumental and other tablets, urns, piUars, sculptured stones, domestic ware and other utensils, pottery, bricks, tiles, &c., have been found in York from time to time ; and a goodly coUection of them may be seen in the Yorkshire Museum. " Although the Saxons had possession of York during more than three hundred years," writes the Rev. Curator, in his Descriptive Account of the Antiquities in the Museum, " and undoubtedly added greatiy to the extent of the Roman-British City, yet few remains of Saxon York have been discovered. Their domestic buildings may have been generaUy constructed of timber, but their public, and especiaUy their ecclesiastical edifices were built of more durable materials. The first Christian Church indeed, hastily erected hy Edwin, in the beginning of the sixth century, was of wood ; but it very soon gave place to one of stpne ; and about the end of the eighth century this was rebuilt and enlarged by Archbishop Albert, of whose magnificent structure, portions, as it is supposed by some, may be seen in the crypt beneath the choir of the present Minster. It appears from Domesday, that at the time of the Norman Conquest there were in York no fewer than nine parochial Churches ; but in these, as they exist at present, no traces of Saxon work manship are left. The tower of another Church (St. Mary, BishophiU Junior), not mentioned in Domesday, has been referred to the Saxon era ; hut it has mpst prebably been constructed by later hands, of Saxon and even of Roman HISTORY OP THE CITY OF YORK. 311 materials. A recent breach in the City rampart, near the Railway Station, brought to light a portion of the fortifications of Eoferwic ; the searching eye of an antiquary may detect tombstones, capitals, and other fragments of Saxon work built into the waUs of our mediaeval Churches ; and an excavator may occasionally turn up a relic of Saxon times, yet the memorials of their long occupation of our ancient City, left by the Saxons, are far less numerous and important than might have been expected. A portion of a Saxon cross or piUar, with several rude wooden coffins, and some other Saxon remains, were found in excavating for the New Market or Parliament Street; a curiously ornamented fragment of a stone cross was discovered in the excavations, preparatory to the building of St. Leonard's Place ; and several Saxon coffin lids have heen found in other parts of York. A hoard of Saxon silver coins, consisting chiefly of those denominated Saints', the production of the ancient York Mint, was discovered in Walm gate in the month of April, 1856. The City of York partook largely of the vicissitudes to which the country was exposed during the period between the evacuation of Britain by the Romans, and the Conquest of this island by the Normans. The Picts and the Scots, the Saxons and the Danes, each in succession erected their standards before its gates, and obtained possession of it, as we have shown in the preceding pages of thisVork. Though shorn of that splendour which imperial Rome conferred, stUl York maintained, after the departure of that people, a distinguished rank as a metropolitan City, and as the centre of commercial attraction. When Arthnr, the most celebrated of the British Monarchs before the Oonquest, had expeUed the Saxons almost from the island in the year 521, York was delivered up to him, and from it he pro ceeded on his expedition into Scotland, with a determination to destroy that ancient seat of enmity from one end to another. But from this purpose he was dissuaded by his spiritual guides, and having abandoned his purpose, he returned to York, and there with his clergy, nobility, and soldiers, celebrated the festival ef Christmas in feasting, mirth, and rejoicings. This is said to have been the first festival of the kind ever celebrated' in Britain, and from which all those ever since held have taken their model. " The latter end of December," says Buchanan, " was spent in mirth, joUity, drinking, and the vices that are too often the consequences, so that the representations of the old heathenish feasts, dedicated to Saturn, were here again revived. Gifts were sent mutually from one to another, frequent invitations passed between friends, and domestic offenders were not punished. AU this was to eelehrate the Nativity of Christ, then, as they say, born." 812 HISTORY OP THE OITY OF YOEK. Edwin, King of Northumbria, made York the metropolis of his Kingdom, and upon his conversion to Christianity, erected it into an Archiepiscopal See, of which he appointed Paulinus, Ethelburga his Queen's confessor. Pri mate. On the death of Edwin, who was kiUed in battie in 633, while re sisting an attack of the Britons, under CadwaUon, assisted by Penda, King of Mercia, York suffered severley from the ravages of the confederated armies, who devastated it with fire and sword, and massacred the inhabitants. Eth elburga and Paulinus fled into Kent, and the scarcely-finished Church, which Edwin had erected, lay neglected for some time, till it was restored by Os wald, Edwin's successor. When the Kingdom of Northumbria was divided into two Kingdoms — Deira and Bernicia — York was the capital of the former. Upon the union of the several Kingdoms of the Heptarchy, in the reign of Egbert, York again became a place of importance. At this period (the ninth century) it was the seat, not only of commerce, but of literature, as far as they then prevailed in the country ; and the liBrary coUected by Archbishop Egbert, and placed in the Cathedral, ranked amongst the first in Christen dom. The Malmsbury historian, speaking of this library, says, " it is the noblest repository, and cabinet of arts and sciences, in the whole world ;" and Alcuin, the celebrated instructor of Charlemagne, in one of his letters to his royal pupil, requests that scholars may be sent from France to copy the works deposited here, " that the garden of letters may not be shut up in York, but that some of its fruits may be placed in the paradise of Tours." Many copies of some of the most valuable works in this library were obtained by Alcuin, even after he took up his residence in the Court of Charlemagne ; and these were afterwards copied again, and dispersed through the various Monasteries in the dominions of that Monarch. Thus is France in part indebted for her literature to the ancient City of York ; and to a certain extent also is Ger many, for several of the books belonging to her first Apostle, Boniface, were sent to him in that country by Archbishop Egbert. York suffered much during the ninth and tenth centuries from the incur sions of the Danes, who spread destruction everywhere, spoiling the City, and burning and wasting the country around it for miles. During this period many of the Danish chieftains found, near York, a grave, among whom was the brave Earl Siward. When the Danes fitted up a mighty fleet and entered the Humber, in 867, under the command of Hinguar and Hubba, their flrst operation was against York, where a sanguinary battle was fought, partly in the midst of the City ; when the two Saxons Kings of Northumbria, Osbert and Ella, were slain, and York was reduced to a heap pf ruins by the enraged barbarians. HISTOEY OP THE CITY OP YOEK. 313 "who spared neither palace nor cottage, age or sex." (See page 96). Having being rebuilt, it was for ages the centre, and frequently the scene of the struggles which were maintained between the Saxons and the Danes ; and when Sweyne, the Danish King, defeated Ethelred, the King of England, in a bloody and well contested battle near York, and the latter fled to Nor mandy, leaving his Crown and Kingdom to the conqueror, it became one of the principal settlements of those rapacious invaders. Whilst the throne of England was fiUed by Danish Kings, their Viceroys, or Comites Northumbrim, took up their residence at York; and the Sovereigns themselves not un frequently made it the royal residence. When the Norwegian armada landed their forces at Riocal, they took York by storm, after a desperate battle fought at Fulford. On the approach of Harold, the last Anglo-Saxon Monarch of England, at the head of a powerful army, the invaders quitted the City, and took up a strong position to the east of York, whither they were' followed by Harold, and the battle of Stamford Bridge ensued. (See page 104.) In the intervals of peace which the citizens experienced, York graduaUy recovered, and continued to flourish tUl the Conquest. From the Domesday Survey we leam that at the period succeeding the Norman Conquest, York was of considerable size, and worthy the rank of being the principal City of the North. From that valuable record, as trans lated by the Rev. W. Bawdwen, we extract the foUowing : — " In Eboraco civitate (City of York) in the time of King Edward (the Con fessor), besides the ward of the Archbishop, there were six wards : one of these was destroyed when the Castles were built. In five wards there were 1418 inhabited mansions. The Archbishop has yet a third part of one of these wards. In these no one, but as a burgess was entitled to any cus tomary payments, except Merlesuain, in one house, which is below the Castle ; and except the Canons wherever they reside, and except four Magistrates, to whom the King granted this privilege by his writ, and that for their lives; but the Archbishop was entitled to all customary payments in his ward. Of all the above-mentioned mansions, there are now in the King's possession 391 inhabited, great and smaU, paying custom ; and 400 uninhabited,* which do not yield customary services, but some only one penny rent, and others less ; and 540 mansions so uninhabitable, that they pay nothing at aU ; and foreigners! hold 145 houses. * These were such as had no constant inhabitant tied to residence, but such as went and came as they pleased. + Francigense, or perhaps, non redentes consuetudinem. 2 s 314 HISTOEY OF THE CITY OF YOEK. " St. Cuthbert has one mansion, which he always had, as many say, quit of all custom ; but the burgesses say that it had not been quit in the time of King Edward, unless as one of the burgesses, or for this reason, he had his own toll,* and that of the Canons. Besides this the Bishop of Durham has, of the King's gift, the Church of All Saints, and what belonged to it; and all the land of Uctred, and the land of Ernuin, which Hugo the Sheriff quit claimed to Walcherus, Bishop of Durham, by the King's writ; and the burgesses who rent it say that they hold it under the King. The Earl of Morton has there fourteen mansions, and two stalls in the butchery, and the Church of St. Crux ; Osbern, the son of Boso, had these, and whatever be longed to them, granted to him. They had been the mansions of Sonulfus, the priest (one), Morulfus (one), Sterrus (one), Esnarrus (one), Gamel with four drenches (one). Archil (five), Levingus the priest (two), Turfin (one), Ligilfus (one). Nigel de Monnevile has one house of a certain Monier. Nigel Fossart has two houses of Modera, and holds them under the King.-|- Waldin usurped two houses of Ketel the priest for one house of Sterre. Hamelin has one house in the City Ditch ; and Waldin one house of Einulfus, and another of Alwin. Richard de Surdeval two houses of Turchil and Ravechil. Nigel Fossart usurped two houses, but it is said he restored them to the Bishop of Constance.]: WUliam de Percy has fourteen mansions of Bernulfus, Gamelbar, Sort, Egbert Selecolf, Algrim, Norman, Dunstan, Adolfus, Weleret, Ulchel, Godolent, Soneva, Osbert,- and the Church of St. Mary. Of Earl Hugo the same WiUiam has two mansions of two baiUffs of Earl Harold ; but the burgesses say one of them had not been the Earl's but the other had been forfeited to him. The Church of St. Cuthbert the same WUliam also claims of Earl Hugo, and seven small houses containing fifty feet in width, besides one house of a certain person named Uctred. The burgesses declare that William de Percy included one house within the Castle, after he had returned from Scotland. But WilUam himself denies that he had had the land of this Uctred ; but he affirms that the house was laid to the Castle by Hugo, the Sheriff, the first year after its destruotion.§ Hugo, son of Baldric, has four houses of Adulphus, Hedned, TurohU, and Gospatric, and twenty-nine smaU mansions|| at a rent, and the Church of St. Andrew, which he bought. Robert Malet has nine houses of these men ; (viz.) Tume, Grim, Grimchetel, Ernuin, Elsi, and another Ernuin, Glunier, Halden, Ra- • Eor things bought and sold in the market. + Probably in capite, and therefore quit J Chief Justiciary of England. He was possessed of 280 manors. § Anno 1070. II Therefore mansiones might be large inns or dweUing places, perhaps messuagia. HISTOEY OF THE OITY- OF YORK. 315 venehel. Erneis de Buran has four houses of Grim, Alwin, Gospatric, and the Church of St. Martin : two of these mansions pay fourteen shUlings. Gilbert Maminet has three houses of Meurdock. Berenger de Todenie has two houses of Gamelcarle and Alwin, and eight houses at rent. A moiety of these is in the City Ditch. Osberne de Archis has two houses of Brun the priest and his mother, and twelve houses at a rent, and two houses of the Bishop of Constance. Odo Balistarius has three houses of Forne and Orme, and one of Elaf at a rent, and one Church. Richard, son of Erfast, three houses of Alchemont, and Gospatric and Bernulf, and the Church of Holy Trinity. Hubert de Montcanisi, one house of Bundus. Landric, the car penter, has ten houses and a half, which the Sheriff made over to him. " In the time of King Edward the value* of the City to the King was fifty-three pounds ; now one hundred pounds by weight.-]- In the time of King Edward there were in the Archbishop's ward]: 189 inhabited houses at a rent. At present there are 100 inhabited, great and smaU, besides the Archbishop's palace and the Canons' houses. The Archbishop hath as much in his ward as the King in his wards. " Within the geld of the City there are fourscore and four carucates of land, and every one of them taxed as one house in the City, and they with the citizens did the three works for the King.§ Of these the Archbishop has six carucates, whioh three ploughs may tiU. These compose the farm belonging to his palace. This was not improved and let at a rent in the time of King Edward, but here and there cultivated by the burgesses ; it is the same now. Of the land described, the King's pool destroyed two new mills of the value of twenty shiUings, and overflowed one carucate of arable, meadow, and garden ground. Value in King Edward's time sixteen shUUngs, now three. In Osboldeuuic (Osboldwick) there are six carucates of land be longing to the Canons, where there may be three ploughs. The Canons have now there two ploughs and a half, and six viUanes and three bordars having two ploughs and a half. Likewise in Mortun (Morton) the Canons have four carucates of land, where they may be two ploughs ; but it is waste. These two viUages are one mile in breadth, and one in length. In Stocthun • This is to be understood of the annual value. + The ancient way of paying money by weight, opposed to the payment of the same de numero, importing twenty shiUings. { If the ward, shire, or district, meant only the close of the Cathedral, it is plain there were more houses in it before the Conquest than there are now, or indeed weU oould stand in the compass. § Burgbote, Brigbote, and Expeditio, oaUed trinoda neeessitas. 316 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YOEK, ,^Stockton) there are six carucates, where they may be three ploughs. They are waste ; of these, three belongs to the Canons, and three to Earl Alan. These are half a mile in length, and half a mUe in breadth. In Sabura (Sauburn) there are three carucates, where they may be one plough and a half. Waste, Ralph Paganel holds it The Canons say that they them selves had it in the time of King Edward, In Heuuarde (Haworth) Orme' had one Manor of six carucates of land, where they may be three ploughs, Hugo, son of Baldric, has now one vassal and one plough; value in King Edward's time ten shiUings, now five shilUngs. In the same village Waltef had one Manor of three carucates of land ; Richard now has it of the Earl of Morton ; value in King Edward's time ten sliiUings, now tea shilUngs and eightpence. This viUage is one mile long, and half a mile broad. In Fale- ford (Fulford) Morcar had one Manor of ten carucates of land. Earl Alan now has it; there may be Sve ploughs. There are now in the demesne two ploughs, and six -viUanes have t^o ploughs there. It is in length one mUe, and in breadth half a mUe. Value in King Edward's time twenty shiUings, now sixteen. In the circuit of the City Torfin has one carucate of land, and Torehil two carucates ; these two ploughs may till. In Cliftune (Clifton) there are eighteen carucates of land subject to the tax geld or gelt ; these nine ploughs may till ; it is now waste. Value in King Edward's time twenty shillings. Of these Morcar had nine carucates of land, and one half to be taxed, which five ploughs may tUl. Earl Alan has now there two ploughs, and two viUanes and four bordars with one plough. In it are fifty acres of meadow ; of these twenty-nine belong to St. Peter, and the other to the Earl. Besides these the Archbishop has eight acres of meadow. This Manor is one mile long, and one broad. Value in King Edward's time twenty shUUngs ; the same now. The Canons have eight carucates and a half; they are waste. In RoudcUffe (Rawcliff) there are three carucates of land to be taxed, which two ploughs may till ; of these Saxford, the Deacon, had two carucates, with a haU (now St. Peter), and the value ten shiUings. And Turber had (now the King) one carucate with a hall ; and the valiie five shiUings ; now Iboth are waste. There are three acres of meadow there. In the whole, half a mile long, and as much broad. In Ouerton (Overton) there are to be taxed five carucates of land, which two ploughs and a half may tiU ; Morcar had a hall there. Earl Alan has now there one plough and five viUanes, and three bordars with three ploughs, and thirty acres of meadow, and wood pasture one mUe long, and two quarentens broad. In the whole, one mUe in length, and half a mUe in breadth ; value in King Edward's time, and now, twenty shUUngs. In Sceltun (Skelton) there are nine carucates of land to be taxed. HISTOEY OF THE CITY OP YOEK. 317 which four ploughs may till ; of these St. Peter had, and has, three carucates in King Edward's time ; and the value six shUUngs ; it is now waste. Tor- ber held two carucates of this land, v^ith a haU, and six oxgangs. Now one farmer (unus censorius) has it under the King ; and there are two ploughs and six viUanes ; value in King Edward's time six shUUngs, now eight. Two carucates and six oxgangs of the same land belonging to Overton. Earl Alan has there one vassal with one plough. In the whole, half a mile in length, and half in breadth. In Mortun (Morton) there are to be taxed three carucates of land, which one plough may tiU. ArchU held this land, and the value was ten shilUngs ; it is now waste. In Wichistun (Wigginton) there is to be taxed one carucate of land, which one plough may tUl. Saxford, the Deacon, held it. Now St. Peter has it. It was and is waste. There is coppice wood there. The whole length, half a mile, and the breadth half. " These had Soke, Sac, Toll, Thaim, and all customs, in the time of King Edward ; Earl Harrold, Merelesuen, Ulffenisc; Torgod Lageman, Tochi (son of Otra), Edwin and Morcar, upon the land of Ingold only. " Gamel, son of Osbert, upon Cottingham only, Copsi upon Coxwold only, and Cnut. Of those which he forfeited he made satisfaction to no one but to the King and the Earl. The Earl has no right whatever in the Church Manors ; neither the King in the Manors of the Earl, excepting what relates to spiritualities which belong to the Archbishop, in aU the land of St. Peter at York, and St. John, and St. Wilfrid, and St. Cuthbert, and the Holy Trinity. The Kiug likewise hath not had any custom there, neither the Earl, nor any other. The King has three ways by land, and a fourth by water. In these aU forfeitures belong to the King and the Earl, whichsoever way they go, either through the land of the King, or of the Archbishop, or of the Earl. " The King's peace given under his hand or seal, if it shaU have been broken, satisfaction is to be made to the King only by twelve hundreds ; every hundred eight pounds. Peace given by an Earl by whomsoever bro' ken, satisfaction is to be made by six hundreds ; every hundred eight pounds. If any one shall have been exiled according to law, no one but the King shall pardon him. But if an Earl or Sheriff shaU have exiled any one from the country, they themselves may recall him, and pardon him if they will. Those Thanes who shaU have had more than six manors pay relief of lands to the King only. The relief is eight pounds. But if he shall have had only six manors or fewer, three marks of silver shaU he paid to the Sheriff for the relief. But the burgesses, citizens of York, do not pay reUef." The chief entries respecting the City of York, are thus summed up by Sir 818 HISTOEY OF THE OITY OP YOEK. Henry ElUs,* — " In the time of Edward the Confessor, there were six Shires in York besides the Shire of the Archbishop. One of these Shires at the time of the Survey, had been demolished to make room for the Castles. In the other five Shires there were 1,418 ' Mansiones Hospitatas.' In the Shire of the Archbishop there were, in the time of King Edward, 189 ' Mansiones Hospitatas,' so that the full number of these mansions was 1,597, besides the Shire sacrificed to the Casties. The whole number may be presumed to have been 1,800 or thereabouts ; the Curia of the Archbishop and the houses of the Canons not included in this estimate. The whole number of ' Domus Hospitatas,' at the time of the Survey, may be reckoned at 1,036." Drake supposes that in aU there were 2,000 inhabited houses in York in the reign of the Confessor, containing a population of 10,000 ; and allowing the suburbs to be as extensive as Leland represents, he says, " we may rea sonably suppose above as many more inhabitants to have resided in them."* Sir H. EUis, taking his figures from Domesday itself, makes the population of the whole County 8,055 persons. If this contrast be correct, the devas tation in Yorkshire caused by the Conquest must indeed have been terrific. As has been shown at page 121 York, long the "Athens of the North,'' was, at the period of the Conquest, as fair and beautiful as the City of Rome, and its buildings were as magnificent. But its splendours were doomed. The citizens unfortunately xefused to yield obedience to the Conqueror, and after a siege of six months they surrendered, and their City was razed to the ground. It never entirely recovered this shock. In 1137 York was again burnt accidentaUy, including the Cathedral, St. Mary's Abbey, St. Leonard's Hospital, and forty parish Churches. From being the metropolis of an Empire, and the chief residence of the Northum brian Kings, York had now graduaUy reduced to the capital and seat of an Earldom ; the limits of the district under this term being for a long time co-extensive with the boundaries of the Kingdom of Northumbria. "One of the first ParUaments mentioned in history," says Drake, "was held at York about the year 1160, in the reign of Henry II," The same Monarch held another ParUament here in 1171, at which WiUiam, King of Scotland, did homage for his Kingdom. In the beginning of the reign of Richard I., a great massacre of the Jews took place here, the details of which are of a most shocking character. (See page 126). In 1230 King Henry HI. with Alexander, King of Scotiand, and an immense number of the nobUity and gentry of both Kingdoms, kept • Sir H. EUis's Domesday, vol. u., p. 509. + Eboracum, p. 234. HISTORY OP THE CITY OF YORK. 319 Christmas at York; and again in 1251 the City was honoured by the same illustrious personages, to celebrate the marriage of the Princess Margaret, daughter of Henry IIL, and the Scottish King. In 1291 Edward I. visited York, on his way to Scotland ; and in 1298 the same Monarch held a Par liament here, to which he summoned the King of Scotland. This was the beginning of the wars between the two Kingdoms, whioh raged during that a'nd the foUowing reign. Several ParUaments were held at York during the reigns of the first three Princes of the House of Plantagenet. In 1889 Richard III. was at York, and conferred the title of Lord Mayor on WilUam de Selby, who then filled that high municipal office. During the " Wars of the Roses" York experienced many calamities. Richard III. soon after his accession visited York, where, according to Drake, he caused himself to be crowned a second time, his first coronation having taken place previously in London. But though the ceremonials connected with Richard's visit were exceedingly gorgeous, yet Mr. Davies, in his recent work on the City Records, has adduced evidence which goes a great way to prove that his own corona tion was certainly not one of them. (See page 168.) In 1541 Henry VIII. established the Great Council of the North, at York, and directed its sittings to be held at the Manor House, then newly erected out of the ruins of St. Mary's Abbey, which, with the rest of the Monastic Institutions of the realm, had been previously suppressed. In 1603 York was visited by James I. In 1604 the plague raged here to an alarming extent. (See page 209). In the reign of Charles I. that Monarch retired to York at the commencement of the commotions between him and his Parliament. In April, 1644, the City was besieged by nearly 40,000 men of the Parliament's forces under Sir Thomas Fairfax and the Earls of Manchester and Leven.* During this siege was fought the battle of Marston Moor, on the 2nd of July, and York was surrendered on honorable terms on the 11th of the same month. At the Restoration, Charles II, was proclaimed here amid great rejoicings. Du ring the period preceding the Revolution in 1688, this City was noted for its opposition to the King ; and in the very year of the Revolution, James II. took away its charter, and declared the office of Mayor to be vacant. Imme diately after the Revolution the charter was restored and the civic offices were re-established. From this period the most noticeable occurrences have been the visits of illustrious personages. Towards the end of the last century his Royal Highness, the Prince of Wales (afterwards George IV.), and his royal bro ther, the Duke of York, visited York; and Charles James Fox, the Earl * For an account of this siege see page 240 of this volume. 320 HISTORY OF THE CITY OP YORK. St. Vincent, Prince Leopold, the Duke of Sussex, and the great Duke of WeUington, "the Iron Duke," have also been here. As we have seen at page 276 of this volume, her present Majesty, when Princess Victoria, accompanied by her mother, the Duchess of Kent attended the musical festival at York in 1836 ; and her Majesty, her royal consort, and the juve- nUe members of the royal famUy, en suite, have visited and lunched at York, on their way to and from London to Edinburgh, in the 1849, 1854, 1855, and 1856. (See pages 276 and 279). An account of the great dinner to Prince Albert and the Lord Mayor of London, in the Guild HaU, in 1850, wiU be found at page 276. After the two years of war between the allied Monarchs of England, France, Sardinia, and Turkey, against the Emperor of Russia, the treaty of peace was signed at Paris, on the 30th of March, 1856, and the same was ratified within a month from that date, Sunday, the 4th of May following, was ap pointed by Parliament as a day of general thanksgiving, and Peace was proclaimed at York on the following day (Monday), with much ceremony. On the latter occasion a grand procession consisting of the Lord Mayor and Corporation, the clergy of the City of all denominations, the gentry and other principal inhabitants, accompanied by detachments of the Seventh Hussars, and the West York Light Infantry, paraded through the principal streets ; and on the evening of the same day, the City was briUiantiy iUuminated, and the streets were crowded tiU a late hour with many thousands of the citizens, and the inhabitants of the surrounding country. Topography, — ^In proceeding to describe York " as it is to day,'' the con trast between it and York of the " olden time'' forces itself strongly upon the mind, and serves to exhibit the vicissitudes to which the affairs of places as weU as of persons are subject. But though York — ^Imperial York — once the capital of Britain — the residence of Emperors and of Kings — has been shorn of some of its brightest beams ; though in remote periods it has been three times razed to the ground, by the Saxons, the Danes, and the Normans; and though in modem times it has been deprived of its commerce by Hull, and of its manufactures by Leeds and other tojvns in the West-Riding, it is StiU an interesting and venerable City, Contrasting modern York with its ancient imperial dignity. Sir Thomas Widdrington has written : — York's not so great as old York was of yore. Yet York it is though wasted to the core ; It's not that York which Ebrank buUt of old, Kor yet that York whioh was of Eoman mould ; York was the third time burnt, and what you see Are York's small ashes of antiquity. HISTORY OP THE CITY OF YORK, 321 The City of York, the County town of Yorkshire, is situated near the centre of Great Britain, in one of the richest and most extensive plains or valleys in England, at the confluence of the rivers Ouse and Foss, and at the junc tion of the York and North Midland and the York, Newcastle, and Berwick Railways (now amalgamated, and known as the North Eastern Railway), as well as at the point where the three Ridings or districts of the County meet, though the City is independent of either of them. It is distant by the York and North Midland and Midland Railways, 220 mUes ; and by the Great Northern Railway 191 mUes, N. N. W. from London. The distance from York to the following places (by Railway) is as foUows : — to Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 84 miles; to Leeds, 32; to Scarborough, 42^-; to Whitby, 57; to Malton, 22; to Hull, 53; to Selby, 23 ; to Low Harrogate, 29 ; to Market Weighton, 23; to Normanton, 24-?r; to Derby, 88; to Birmingham, 129; to Manches ter, 75 ; to Berwick-upon-Tweed, 151 ; and to Edinburgh, 208 miles. Walls, Gates, &c. — The ancient City of York, which is about three miles in circumference, is almost surrounded with walls or ramparts ; but there are no existing records to show when these walls were first erected, though there is a strong series of historical evidence to prove that York was fortified both during the Saxon and Danish periods, as weU as under the Roman power. There is no doubt that under the Roman Praetors the ancient Eboracum was well fortified, and there appears to be little doubt that the form and direction of three of these Roman walls has at different times been discovered. Combining the evidence furnished by the position of the por tions of the three ancient walls which have been found, the Rev. C. WeU beloved, of York, one of the best living authorities on the subject, thinks we are warranted in concluding that the Roman City was of a rectangular form, of about 660 yards by about 550, enclosed by a wall, and rampart mound of earth on the inner side of the wall, and perhaps a fosse without. According to his ideas, the four angles of the Roman waU were at the present Multan gular Tower in the gardens of the Museum ; near the end of Jubbergate (now caUed Market Street), where it adjoins Coney Street;* near the bottom of Aldwarli ; and somewhere in the vicinity of the present angle of the City waUs on Lord Mayor's Walk. There is however no dispute as to the Roman origin of the Multangular Tower and the wall adjoining. From its long defence against the Norman Conqueror it is certain, that according to the military science of the time, York was a formidable station, and must have been completely defended by walls and ditches. Henry III. granted a patent * In 1832 the foundations of an angular tower were discovered while making exca vations in Market Street (late Jubbergate). 2 T 322 HISTORY OP THE CITY OF YOEK. to the Lord Mayor to levy certain toUs in specie on certain goods entering York, which was to be applied to the maintenance of the fortifications of the City ; and Drake, in his Eboracum, copies at length three writs of mandamus issued to the Dean and Chapter, the better to enforce the tax. It is generally supposed that these ramparts were rebuilt in the reign of Edward I., with a view to rendering the place better able to resist the incur sions of the Soots, whose invasions he had but too much reason to expect In the reign of his son and successor Edward II., the Scots made such inroads into the country as to penetrate even to the very gates of York, but without daring to undertake the siege. (See page 136). In the Foedera of Rymer we flnd the foUowing mandate from Edward IH. to the " Mayor and Bailiffs of the City of York," directing them to r^air the fortifications, and provide ammunition for the defence of the place ; and the method of defraying the expense is characteristic of the lawlessness of the times. " Since the Scotch, our enemies and rebels, have thought fit to enter our Kingdom in an hostile manner near Carlisle, with all their power, as we are certainly informed,'' says the mandate, " and kiU, burn, destroy, and act other mischiefs as far as they are able, we have drawn down our army in order, by God's assistance, to restrain their malice, and to that end turn our steps towards that country and those enemies. "We, considering our aforesaid City of York, especially whilst Isabel, Queen of England, our most dear mother, our brother and sisters,* abide in the same, to be more safely kept and guarded ; least any sudden danger from our enemies' approach should happen to the said City ;. or fear affright our mother, brother, and sisters, which God avert, for want of sufficient ammu nition and guard ; we strictly command and charge you, upon your faiths and aUegiance, and on the forfeiture of everything you can forfeit to us, im mediately at sight of these presents, without excuse or delay, to inspect and overlook aU your waUs, ditches and towers, and ammunition, proper for the defence of the said City; taking with you such of our faithful servants as wUl be chosen for this purpose ; and to take such order for its defence that no danger can happen to the City by neglect of such safeguards. " And we, by these presents, give you full power and authority to distrain and compel all and singular owners of houses or rents in the said City, or merchants, or strangers, inhabiting the same, by the seizure of their bodies or goods, to be aiding towards the security of the walls, bulwarks, or towers, as you in your own discretion shall think fit to ordain for the making other » Prince John of Eltham, and the Princesses Joan and Ehnor. HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 823 useful and necessary works about it ; punishing all those that are found to contradict or rebel against this order, by imprisonment, or what other methods you think fit. Study therefore to use such diligence in the execution of the premises, that we may find it in the effects of your works ; and that we may have no occasion from your negUgence, should danger happen, to take severe notice of you. Dated at Durham, July 15. A. 1327. "by the king." In 1638 Leland visited York, and in that ancient record caUed his Itine rary,* gives us the following account of the state of its fortifications at that period : — " The towne of Yorke standeth by west and est of Ouse river running through it, but that part that lyeth by est is twice as grete in building as the other. Thus goetti the waul from the ripe (or bank) of Ouse of the est part of the cite of York. Fyrst, a grete towre with a chaine of yron to cast over the Ouse, than another towre and soe to Bowdamgate; from Bowdamgate or bar to Goodramgate or bar x towres ; thens four towres to Laythorpe a postern gate, and soe by a space of two flite shottes, the blind and deep water of Fosse coming out of the forest of Galtres, defended this part of the cite without waules ; then to Waumgate three towres and thens to Fishergate, stoppid up sins the communes humid it yn the tyme of King Henry the seventh. Thens to the ripe of Fosse have three towres, and in the three a postern ; and thens over Fosse by a bridge to the castelle. The west part of the cite is thus ynclosed ; first a turrit, and soe the waul runneth over the side of the dungeon of the casteUe on the west side of Ouse, right agayne the casteUe on the est ripe. The plotte of this castelle is now called Ould Baile, and the area and ditches of it doe manifestly appeare. JBetwixt the beginninge of the first part of this west wauUe and Micklegate be ix towres ; and betwixt it and the ripe agayne of Ouse be xi towres ; and at this xi towres be a postern gate, and the towre of it is right agayne the est towre, to draw over the chain on Ouse betwixt them." The Siege of York in 1644 damaged the walls very considerably ; and the three foUowing years were employed in repairing them. Walmgate Bar and the walls around it had suffered more than any of the rest, on account of the * John Leland was one of the Chaplains of Eing Henry VIII., and was keeper of the King's Ubrary. He had the titie of the " Royal Antiquary," and was commissioned by- the Kiug, to peregrinate England and Wales, in search of objects of antiquity in the Ubraries of all the Cathedrals, Abbeys, and Colleges. He commenced the coUection of materials for his Itinerary in 1538, and completed it in 1545 ; and after his death, which occurred in 1552, his MS. ooUections came into the Bodleian Library at Oxford, and furnished Camden, Dugdale, Burton, and others with very valuable infornaation. 324 HISTORY OF THE OITY OF YORK. batteries on Lamel Mill Hill. The Bar was moreover undermined and much shaken by the explosion. The date of the completion of the repairs of this part (1648) stands above the arch of the outer Barbican. The walls between Monk Bar and Layerthorpe Postern were restored in 1666 ; and in 1669, those near Bootham Bar were repaired at the cost of the City. . In 1673 the waUs from Walmgate Bar to their termination at the Red Tower, on the banks of the Foss, were repaired, but they are now in a state of dilapidation. About the year 1700 the whole circuit of the waUs was paved with brick, and thrown open to the public as a promenade. It appears that soon after this date they began to fall into decay, and as no means were taken to pre vent the dilapidation, the time did not appear far off when they would be entirely destroyed. But in the year 1831^ the Corporation granted a donation of £100. towards their restoration, and a considerable sum was raised by subscription for the same purpose. The length of the waU between North Street Postern and Micklegate Bar was restored at a cost of ^61,067. 17s. 6d. ; and from that Bar to Skeldergate Postern, for £1,725. Is. 6d. The walls also from Fishergate Postern, on the opposite side of the river, a little beyond Fishergate Bar, were likewise restored. Walmgate Bar and Barbican, and the remainder of the wall between that point and Fishergate, were restored with the sum of £500. (increased by several subscriptions) which the Corpo ration received from the Great North of England Railway Company, for per mission to erect the gateway to their coal depot near North Street Postern.* Nearly the whole circle of the ancient fortifications is now open to the public, and forms a most deUghtful promenade, at once commanding the advantages of the purest air and most pleasing prospects ; embracing — within the walls — the noble Cathedral in some of its finest points of view ; the picturesque ruins of St. Mary's Abbey ; the Roman Multangular Tower ; the classical building (the Museum) and elegant grounds of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society; the venerable Guild-HaU, rising from the water's edge; and the Castie and CUfford's Tower, its ancient keep. And beyond the waUs the ¦views are extensive and deUghtful, embracing the beautU'ul Ouse, Severus's •HiU, and other interesting objects. The waUs completely encompass that * " Probably it is not generaUy known," says Mr. WeUbeloved, in oue of his notes to the author of York and its Vicinity, " that the last reparation of the walls originated with a few persons anxious to walk in the ' old ways,' who forraed an Association called ' The Eoot-path Association.' At a meeting of the assooiators, one member proposed that the walk on the walls should be considered as a common foot-path. A resolution to that eflfect brought the state of the walls under the notice of the Association, and successful measures were taken, terminating in a general and complete repair." HISTOEY OP THE CITY OF YOEK. 326 part of the City which is situated on the western side of the river Ouse. Commencing near the river, at Skeldergate Postern, the promenade is perfect, and the walk deUghtful — passing Micklegate Bar and the Railway Station — tUl we reach again the bank of the river at North Street Postern. Here the wall terminates with a picturesque old tower, from which a chain was for merly attached across the river to Lendal Tower on the opposite side. From the latter tower the wall may be traced in the Museum gardens, running towards the entrance lodge ; and from St. Leonard's Hospital (adjacent to the lodge) to the Multangular Tower, from whence it takes an easterly direc tion past the Manor House, now the Wilberforce School for the Blind. From hence there is an interruption, till we arrive at Bootham Bar, from whence it extends in a south-easterly direction to Monk Bar. This part of the wall is in good repair, but has no pubUc walk upon it ; and a good view of it may be obtained from Lord Mayor's Walk. From Monk Bar the wall sweeps in a southern direction to Layerthorpe, and is in good preservation, and open to the public. From Layerthorpe Postern, which stood near Layerthorpe Bridge, to the Red Tower, the river Foss and the marshy ground adjoining it, sufficiently protected the City, and rendered a waU unnecessary. As before intimated, the wall from the Red Tower to Walmgate Bar is much decayed ; but from the latter place to its termination at Fishergate Postern, it is in good repair, and the promenade is open. The dilapidated walls from Walmgate Bar to the Red Tower, a distance of nearly 350 yards, are about to be restored, and when this is effected, the whole of the waUs wiU be in a state of perfect repair. Though this latter portion of the ramparts is particularly interesting, owing to its being the oldest part of the time honoured walls of this ancient City, and to its having pecuUarities which no other portion possesses — being built on a series of rude and irregular arches, on account of the unsound nature of the soil— an attempt to destroy it has been lately made. The Local Board of Health Committee, at the instigation, it is said, of an interested individual, recently recommended that this portion of the walls should be pulled down ; and the chief reason given by the despoilers for the proposed act of Vandalism, was that their removal would improve the health of the locality (a sheer fallacy), and that the site of the walls being made available for building purposes, might be sold for from £2,000. to £3,000. Such a recommendation, and coming from such a quarter, very naturally aroused the feelings of the- citizens, who are justly proud of the antiquities they possess, and anxious carefully to preserve them. The Yorkshire Anti- 326 HISTOEY OP THE, CITY OP YORK. quarian Club, the Yorkshire Architectural Society, and others interested in the protection of the ancient remains of the City, lost no time in memori^ alizing the Council. The memorial of the latter Society was signed by the Archbishop of York, and no less than eight peers of the realm, besides a great number of influential gentlemen connected with the City and County. At the Quarterly Meeting of the City Council, on Monday, February 12th, 1855 — a day to be held memorable by the local antiquarian — these memo rials were read, and the whole subject of the proposed act of desecration was ably discussed. Honour to those members of the Council who supported the resolution, that the minutes of the Board of Health Committee, recom mending, the removal of the waUs, be 7iot confirmed, but that the waUs be repaired and retained, provided their restoration can be effected by pubUo subscription. Honour to Mr. Alderman Leeman, and the other gentiemen who ably pointed out the great value of these relics of antiquity, and justly contended that if they were allowed to be removed, the demoUtion of the other portions of the walls might soon foUow. To the delight of aU the lovers of antiquities in Yorkshire, thiit spirit of Vandalism, which at former periods sanctioned the destruction of the beau tiful ruins of the Abbey of St. Mary, even by aUowing its elegantiy carved stone-work to be burnt into lime ; that same spirit which had contemplated the removal of Clifford's Tower, and the cutting down of the magnificent trees on the New Walk ; and which would now sweep away these venerated ramparts, was suppressed at the above-mentioned meeting by a majority of twenty-two. Those who voted for the retention of the walls were Mr. Aid. Leeman, Mr. Aid. Meek, Mr. Aid. Wood, Mr. Aid. Evers, Mr. Aid. Richardson, the Sheriff, Messrs. Parkinson, WooUons, E. R. Anderson, G. Steward, Clark, BeU, Craven, ShUleto, Hunt, Watkinson, Hands, E. Calvert, WUkinson, Husband, E. Allen, Douglas, Smith, Scholefield, Clark, John Meek, Lambert, Yallow, and J. AUen. And the parties in favour of the demolition of the waUs were Mr. Aid. Seymour, Mr. Aid. Rowntree, Messrs. F. Calvert, Wilberforce, Thompson, Scott, and Mann. It was then agreed that a subscription should be at once entered into, in order that the vote which had been come to might be carried out, and the waUs repaired. The circumference of the ramparts or walls of York, according to Drake, -from a survey made in August, 1665, is two mUes, three furlongs, and ninety six yards (an extent little inferior to that of the old walls of London, which was only three mUes), made up of the following 'distances between the prin cipal entrances : — HISTOEY OP THE CITY OF YORK. 327 PEEOHES. Brought forward 613 Bootham Bar to Monk Bar 116 Thence to Layerthorpe Bridge 66 Thence to the Eed Tower 80 ToiAi, 875 Eed Tower to Walmgate Bar 60 Thence to Fishergate Postern 99 Thence to Castiegate Postern .... 58 Thence to Skeldergate Postern . . 84 Thence to Micklegate Bar 136 Thenoe to North Street Postern . . 140 Thence to Bootham Bar 86 The fortified walls round York, and those at Chester, are the only remains of this kind of miUtary architecture on so extensive a scale in the Kingdom. The Corporation of York are invested with an annual income for the main tenance of the ramparts, and at Chester a specific duty on certain merchandise is levied for a similar purpose. Professor Phillips, in speaking of York and its ramparts, says, " Innumerable battle plains surround her Roman camp ; and from her waUs we may see three decisive fields — where Hardrada fell at Stamford Bridge, and Clifford died at Towton Dale, and Rupert fled from Marston Moor— sixteen centuries of historical renown dignify the winding streets and narrow pavements by which we reach the feudal walls, the Bene dictine Abbey, the Northumbrian Church, the camp of the victorious Legion."* The entrances into the City of York are by four principal Gates or Bars, viz., Micklegate Bar on the south-west, Bootham Bar on the north-west. Monk Bar on the north-east, and Walmgate Bar on the south-east. There are also three smaller entrances thus distinguished — Fishergate Bar, Victoria Bar, and Fishergate Postern. There were formerly posterns at Skeldergate, Castiegate, North Street, and Layerthorpe. Micklegate Bar, the principal gate and chief entrance of the City from the south is the most magnificent, and previous to the destruction of the Bar bican or out-work, in 1826, must have made a very imposing and venerable appearance. It is a square tower with a fine circular arch, and embattled turrets at the angles. Each of these turrets are adorned with a stone figure in a menacing attitude. Drake conceived that the centre arch was Roman, and strenuously maintained his opinion, in which he was supported by the Earl of Burlington ; but James Essex, the Architect, contradicted this opi nion ; and Sir Henry C. Englefield, in a paper read before the Society of Antiquaries, in 1780, satisfactorily points out the identity between the style of architecture displayed in this Bar, and that of several undisputed Saxon and Norman edifices ; so that it is now generally agreed, that so far from the arch being a Roman erection, it is most likely a Norman work. The lower parts of the structure are built of a grey stone of very coarse grit, whilst the PhUUps's Rivers and Mountains of Yorkshire. 328 HISTORY OF THE CITY OP YORK. upper waUs and turrets are constructed of a fine white limestone, and the difference of style as well as of materials, shows that the work is of two dif ferent periods. Above the gate is a shield of arms, suspended from a garter, of Sir John Lister Kaye, who was Lord Mayor in 1737, and beneath is the inscription, now nearly defaced, " Renovata, a.d. mdccxxxyii.'' Higher up on the buUding are the royal arms of Old France and England, quarterly, hetween those of the City of York, aU emblazoned in colours. Over each shield is a small Gothic canopy, and above the royal arms is a helmet crested with a lion passant gardant, the whole gUt. These arms and crest were painted and gUd anew in 1827, and are now much in want of similar treat ment. On the City side are the arms of France and England quarterly. The adjacent waUs are supposed to have been erected in the time of Edward I., and the upper part of the present Bar probably belongs to the same period. It has, however, been objected that the shields on it show that it was not buUt earUer than the days of Edward IH., but the origin of these ornaments is not sufficient evidence of the date of the Bar itself. " What ever may be the obscurity as to the precise origin, there can be no doubt," says a good authority, " but that the fortification, which was once a work of considerable magnitude and importance, was erected when the use of artil lery was unknown." " It appears by a record in the Pipe Office," writes Mr. Drake, " that one Benedict Fitz-Engelram gave half a mark for Ucense to buUd a certain house upon this Bar, and sixpence annual rent for having it hereditary, the eighth of Richard I. (1197). But this does not ascertain the age of the present structure. Yet I observe the fleurs de lis in the royal arms are not confined to the number of three, which puts it out of doubt that they were placed there before the time of Henry V. ; who was the first that gave that par ticular number in his bearing." The Barbican was of more recent origin than the Bar itself, and by its removal the latter now stands nearly as it was when first it was built. The two small doors which opened from the lateral turrets upon the battiements of the Barbican, are stiU visible, and since the alterations in 1826, they have had a very singular appearance. Sir Walter Scott is reported to have said that if walking from Edinburgh to York would induce the Corporation of York to preserve this Barbican, he would gladly undertake the joumey. Mr. Drake, describing this entrance when he wrote in 1736, says, " This Bar is strengthened by an outer gate, which had a massy iron chain that went across, then a portcuUis, and lastly a mighty strong double wooden gate, which closed in every night at the usual hour. It has the character HISTORY OF THE OITY OP YORK. 829 altogether, as to ancient fortification, to be as noble and august a port as most in Europe." Since Drake's time, various alterations and mutilations have occurred in this venerable pile. The outer gate, the massy chain, and the portcullis, which was a large wooden grate, with iron spikes at the bottom, have all disappeared. In 1754, the gate or arched footway on the west side of the Bar was erected, and the archway on the east side of it was part of the alteration of 1826. Many historical events are connected with this Bar, and many of the Monarchs of England, who have honoured York with their presence, have passed beneath its portals. It was here that they were generally received by the Corporation in all the civic state and splendour of those days. This is the Bar upon which it was customary to expose the heads and mutilated re mains of traitors after execution. The top of the tower is covered with lead, and commands a most interesting prospect of the surrounding country. The ascent to the tower, and to the walls adjoining it, is by a double flight of stone steps on both sides of the street. The apartments in the tower of this, as well as in the towers of Monk Bar and Walmgate Bar, are now inhabited by some of the police of the City, and their families. The tower of Bootham Bar is unoccupied. Bootham Bar, the entrance from the north, is an ancient structure, chiefly built of the grit stone generally used by the Romans, and has a circular arch similar to Micklegate Bar. "The structure of this port," says Drake, "is very ancient, being almost wholly built of grit, but wanting that symmetry so "very conspicuous in Micklegate Bar. It is certainly Gothic, though built of Roman materials. The inside was rebuilt with free stone in 1719." The Barbican was removed in 1831, and the whole structure narrowly escaped removal ; the interference of the citizens, in public meeting assembled on the 16th of February, 1832, alone preserved the venerable relic. A sum of £300. was raised by subscription (the Corporation gave £100., provided the inhabi tants would raise £200.), and the exterior and interior was substantially repaired. At the same time the street at the west side, of the Bar was widened, and a new and exceUent approach to the City formed, called St. Leonard's Place. The Barbican had embattled turrets at the angles. On the top of the outer front of the tower are the remains of three stone figures similar to those on Micklegate Bar. Previously to the reparations in 1831 there was in the inner front, facing the City, a large niche over the arch which contained a stone figure of a King, much mutilated. By some it was supposed to represent Ebrauc, the presumed founder of York ; but it was evidently of more modem costume, and was most probably a statue of King 2 u 330 HISTORY OP THE CITY OP YORE. James I. There are arches on each side of the gate for foot passengers, and the portcuUis stiU retains its ancient position over the outer arch. Monk Bar, which forms the approach from Scarborough, Malton, and the east, is a stately gate, with a circular arch. The foundation is of grit stone, and on the exterior of the tower front are the arms of Old France quartered with those of England; which circumstance bespeaks its antiquity. Above the shield is a mutilated helmet beneath a Gothic canopy ; and on the battie ments of the turrets are stone figures in a menacing posture. The doors and Barbican were removed in 1815, but the ancient portcuUis is still remaining. Mr. Britten considers this gate as probably the most curious and perfect specimen of this sort of architecture in the Kingdom ; and therefore very in teresting to the antiquary and architect. Monk Bar is the loftiest of the four, and is a beautiful specimen of the casteUated architecture which pre vailed in the fourteenth century. This Bar, we are told by Drake, was for merly made use of as a prison for freemen of the City ; and the two stories of vaulted chambers in the tower were formerly used for that purpose. The gateway roof is groined, and the City front displays several windows with muUions and plain arched heads. There is a thoroughfare for foot pas sengers on each side of the Bar, of modern erection. The prospect of the surrounding country from the top of the tower is truly delightful. Walmgate Bar, situated at the end of Walmgate, is the entrance into York from Beverley, Hull, &c., and is supposed to derive its name, by corrupt pro nunciation, from the great Roman Road, called WatUng Street. This Bar StiU retains its Barbican and portcuUis, as well as a great portion of the old oak door and wicket of the main gateway, and is now a faithful representa tion of the defences placed near the principal entrances of fortified towns in the middle ages. It is built in the same manner as the others, being square, with embattied turrets at the angles. Towards the foundation are some large blocks of grit ; but the arches, &c., are modern, having undergone a thorough repair in 1648, after this gate had been almost demoUshed by the ParUament arian army during the Civil War of that period. The main building of the Bar belongs to the time of Edward I. ; and the Barbican, which has a pointed arch, to the time of Edward HI. Over the outer gateway are the arms of Henry V., and an inscription denoting that the whole building was restored by the Corporation of York, in 1840, Sir WiUiam Stephenson Clark, knight, being Lord Mayor; and over the gate of the Barbican are the City Arms, and the date " 1648," shewing the time of its repair after the siege of 1644, The cost of the restoration in 1840 was £500, Attached to the City front is an extraneous erection of wood and HISTORY OF THE CIT-J OF YORK, 33l Jjlaster of two stories. The lower story is supported by two Tuscan columns ; the front of the first story is also adorned with two columns of the same order ; and the second has Ionic piUars with an architrave and cornice, Fishergate Bar, which stands at the end of St. George Street, was waUed up from the time of Henry VII. to the month of October, 1827, when, in consequence of the formation of the new market for cattle on the outside of this part of the waUs, it was again opened. It consists of a plain centre arch, with two narrow arches for foot passengers. There is no tower over the gate, and the arch is in a great measure new. Leland tells us that this Bar was burnt in time of Henry VH. by the peasantry of Yorkshire, who took the City, and would have beheaded Sir Richard Yorke, then Lord Mayor ; and that the Bar was then blocked up. Over this gateway on each side are sculptures and inscriptions. On the exterior is one representing Sir WUUam Todd, merchant, who was a great benefactor to the reparation of the walls, on which is the following inscrip tion : "A. Dm. CCCC". LXXXVH. S^ WiUm. Tod, knyght & mair jou— ates some tyme was schyriffe did this cost himself." Over this inscription was formerly a piece of rude sculpture, representing a senator in his robes, and a female kneeUng by him. The other inscription is on the City side, and placed under the arms of the City. It is as follows: " A°. DOMINE M. CCCC. LXXXVII. Sir WiUiam Tod knight L. mayre this wal was mayde in his dayes IX yerdys." Fishergate Postern, the only one of the old posterns now remaining, is situated at the termination of the waUs in Fishergate, and is a solid square stone buUding with a tiled roof. It was erected at the beginning of the six teenth century, and is singular for its beauty and exactness of symmetry, as weU as an admirable specimen of the species of defence placed near small gates and saUy ports. The only openings in the walls towards the exterior are two narrow windows immediately beneath the roof, which is made as far as possible to defend them. From these elevated windows boiling oil, pitch, stones, and every description of deadly missile, were showered down upon the besiegers near the gate. It has a low pointed arched footway, and was so contrived with a view to prevent ingress except in a stooping attitude, which would, of course, give the defenders an advantage. Adjoining to this gateway are some remains of Roman masonry, principaUy arches of grit stone. Skeldergate Postern formerly stood on the opposite side of the river, but the building was removed in 1808. This postern has been in some measure replaced by a new circular arch over the road leading to the City Gaol, erected in 1831, There is a ferry boat kept near the site of this postern, which 332 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK, opens a communication with the New Walk. This ferry is rented from the ' Corporation by a person whose duty it is to be constantly in attendance during the day. North Street Postern, at the termination of the' walls at North Street, has been replaced by a new and handsome arch for carriages, and two side arches for foot passengers, erected in 1840, by the Great North of England RaUway Company. For permission to buUd this entrance and obtain a road into North Street, this company paid the Corporation £500., which sum has been expended in restoring Walmgate Bar and Barbican. The tower of North Street Postern, which is still in existence, was the connecting link between the west and east lities of fortification. Its form is circular, and it was used for the double purpose of a postern and a watch tower for the river. There is a ferry at this postern, which comtnunicates with the opposite bank of the river, and the person who rents it from the Corporation resides in the ancient tower. Lendal Tower stands on the opposite side of the river, and as has been shown by the quotation from Leland at a preceding page, when the fortifica tions of the City were complete, a strong iron chain passed across the river from eaoh of these towers.* In the directions issued by the Corporation in 1569, when they expected a siege by the rebel Earls, "all boats, pinks, and lighters," were ordered to range themselves within this chain. Sir Thomas Widdrington mentions a postern at Lendal, but no remains of any such building are now to be seen. The ancient Castle or Keep on Baile Hill, was intended to serve a some what similar purpose as a corresponding station to Clifford's Tower, on the west bank of the river. Victoria Bar is the name given to the arch through the walls from Bishop- hill to Clementhorpe, which was erected by subscription in 1838. On opening the wall a small gateway was found to have been anciently in the same place. Castiegate Postern, which stood very near the ruins of Clifford's Tower, and in the direct road to the village of Fulford, possessed no pecuUar feature. It • Lendal Tower was formerly converted into a warehouse, and in 1682 it was thoroughly repaired, and au engine was placed in it for the purpose of supplying the inhabitants with water. In 1836 the engine was placed in a new engine house; and in 1849 the waterworks wei'e altogether removed to Aoomb Landing. This tower was raised by the late Waterworks Company, and is considerably higher than fliat on the opposite side, being about fifty-eight feet above the level of the ground. It is stiU in the possession of the present Waterworks Company. HISTOEY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 833 B was taken down in May, 1826, on commencing the new works at the gaol. Mr. Davies, in one of his interesting lectures at the York Institute, told us, that in the garden of some cottages close to this postern " there once was kept that instrument of punishment — the ducking stool — whioh was brought into requisition for the purpose of punishing females who might be caUed common scolds, this being effected by placing them in the stool, and plun ging them three times overhead in the river. This custom was not disused until about one hundred years ago ; but now we live in more gallant times," he continued, " when any one might indulge their loquacity with impunity."* Layertfiorpe Postern was situated at the end of Layerthorpe Bridge, with the river Foss running in front. It was defended by a portcullis, and when the City was in a fortified state, was an important and well guarded post. It was removed when the present bridge over the Foss at this point was erected in 1829, in the place of the old and inconvenient arches, which previously stood here. The extensive and beautiful Tudor arch, through which the railway enters the City, was erected in 1840, and from the City Walls near it may be seen, on the outside, the original depth of the scarp and counter scarp, in other words, of the ditch which defended the base of the wall. This is the only place where these features of the circumvallation are preserved entire. Besides these Bars and Posterns, there were at different distances in the waUs several small rooms or cells, and numerous towers, a few of which yet remain. The most remarkable of these is caUed the Multangular Tower, in the gardens of the Museum. This interesting relie of the Boman era con sists of a portion of the waU of a large tower, having ten sides of a nearly * The punishment of the Cuaking or Ducking Stool, or Tumbrell, was ancientiy in flicted upon persons for njinor transgressions. The culprit was placed in a stool or chair, and immerged overhead and ears, in stercore, in some muddy or stinking pond. The Burrow laws consign men to the pUlory, and women to the cucking stool or tumbrell. These laws particularly refer to the frauds committed by brewers and bakers, and orders justice to be done upon them by subjecting them to the discipline of the cucking stool for their third offence. In the " Aotes Marie " it is expressly provided " that the women perturbatouris for skafrie of money or vtherwyse, salbe takin and put vpone the cukstules of eurie burgh or towne." In the Saxon tongue cv^ck, or guck, signifies to scold or brawl, taken from the bird cuckoo, or guckoo ; and ing in that language signifies water. In the north of England the common people pronounce it ducking-stool, which perhaps may have sprung from the Belgic or Teutonic ducken, to dive under water. This machine, which has also been caUed the trebucket or trap-door, was exhibited in terrorem to keep that unruly member, the female tongue, iu due subjection, but many instances occur of hardy females, who have undauntedly braved the punishment rather than surrender the invaluable privilege which a woman holds most dear. 3^4 itlSTOEY OF THE CITY OP YOE:^. regular thirteen sided figure, forming nine obtuse angles, whence it derives its name. Antiquarians nearly aU agree that this tower and the waU ad joining it is a portion of the fortifications of the Roman station of Eboracum ; and though built probably about the middle of the third century of the Chris tian era, they are in a remarkably good state of preservation, considering the danger to which they have been exposed amidst the various vicissitudes which the City of York has experienced during the long and often much troubled period that has elapsed since Britain was abandoned by the Romans. Dr. Lister, in describing these remains to the Royal Society, says, " Care fully viewing the^antiquities of York, the dweUing of at least two of the Roman Emperors— Severus and Constantius— I found part of. a waU yet standing, which is undoubtedly of that time. It is the south waU of the Mint Yard, and consists of a multangular tower, which did lead to Bootham Bar, and part of a wall which ran the length of Coning Street as he who shaU attentively view it on both sides may discern. The outside to the river is faced with a very small saxum quadratum of about four inches thick, and laid in levels Uke our modern brickwork. The length of the stones is not ob served, but they are as they feU out, in hewing. From the foundation twenty courses of these smaU squared stones are laid, and over them five courses of Roman bricks. These bricks are placed some lengthways, some endways in the walls, and were caUed lateres diatoni; after these five courses of brick, other twenty-two courses of smaU square stones, as before described, are laid, which raise the waU some feet higher, and then five more courses of the same Roman bricks ; beyond which the waU is imperfect, and capped with modem building. In all this height there is not any casement or loop-hole, but one entire and uniform wall ; from which we may infer that this waU was buUt some courses higher, after the same order. The bricks were to be as thoroughs, or as it were so many new foundations, to that which was to be superstructed, and to bind the two sides firmly together ; for the waU itseK is only faced with smaU square stone, and the middle thereof fiUed with mortar and pebble."* The exterior of the tower exhibits the rude repairs it has received in later times, and the portion may be plainly discerned, which was raised upon it when it was made part of the waU of York in the middle ages. The masonry of the interior of the tower is remarkably fresh and perfect, owing to its having been concealed for many ages by an accumulation of soil, which has • Dr. Langwith, who teUs us that this method of buUding with brick and stone was originally African, observes that as Severus was an African by birth, it is highly probable that it was introduced here by that Emperor, HISTOEY OP THE CITY OP YOEK. " 333 only recently been removed, A smaU portion of a waU is remaining, which appears to have divided the tower into two equal portions. The diameter of the whole interior at the base or floor, is about 33^ feet. The lower com partments had a mortar floor laid upon sand, and having no Ught but from the entrance, Mr. WeUbeloved thinks that they may have been used as de positories of stores or arms. There seems to have been a timber floor at the height of about five feet above this, and a third floor about nine feet higher up. These upper apartments had each a narrow window or aperture, so placed as to enable those within to observe what was passing without on the line of eaoh waU ; and this circumstance leads to the supposition that they had been used as guard rooms. The opening of these apertures externally was not more than six inches in width, but within it expanded to about five feet. The Roman wall directs its course from the angle tower in a north easterly direction, and has been traced as far as Bootham Bar, where the foundations and some interesting fragments of the old Roman gate were discovered. Between the Multangular Tower and the ancient gate, remains of two wall towers and one entire smaU chamber have been found buried with the modem wall of the City. These towers, and the wall connected with them, were removed when the new entrance into the City through St. Leonard's Place was formed. The other Roman waU ran from the angle tower in the direction of Lendal and Coney Street. " The Multangular Tower with the waU adjoining it" writes Mr. WeU beloved, "is the only portion of the fortifications of Eburacum or Roman York, existing above ground., But in excavating for sewers and other pur poses, various portions of the foundations of such fortifications have been found ; by means of which the exact extent of one side, and the direction of two other sides of the Roman Station have been satisfactorily ascertained. No distinct traces of a fourth side have yet been found, or if found, noticed by any antiquary. It can only be conjectured that it nearly coincided with the rampart and waU connected with Monk Bar and Layerthorpe Bridge. If this conjecture, justified by what is certainly known of the three other walls of the Roman Station, be adopted, it appears that Roman York occupied comparatively a small portion of the site of modern York, and that it was entirely on the north side of the river Ouse; the south side being occupied as recent discoveries have clearly shown, by extensive baths, temples, villas, and places of burial ; on the road leading from Eburacum to Calcaria (Tad- caster), the next station towards the south." The same learned antiquary places the Roman bridge over the Ouse higher 336 HISTOEY OP THE CITY OP YOEK. up the river than the present one. He thinks that it was thrown across from about St. Helen's Square to Tanner Row. For ages the Roman Multangular Tower remained in a neglected state, until it came into the hands of the Yorkshire PhUosophical Society in 1826, and when the accumulation of rubbish, which had been coUected for cen turies, was cleared away, several EngUsh coins of various dates were dis covered near the surface, whUe many Roman coins were found in the bottom. And if any doubt existed of its Roman origin, it has been entirely removed by the discovery of Roman legionary inscriptions on some stones in the lower courses of the interior. Sir H. 0. Englefield is the only person who has disputed the Roman origin of this tower, but he has not been so successful in establishing his opinion in this case as in that of the arch of Mickle gate Bar. The Red Tower, so caUed from having been chiefly built of red brick, is an erection of great antiquity. It is situated on the south bank of the river, and there is no doubt of its having originaUy been a portion of the fortifica tions of the City, for it is connected with Walmgate Bar by a continuation of the bar waUs up to it This tower, in the time of the Romans, commanded a grand bay, the basin or dock of which was more than a mile in circum ference, and thus completed the protection of the City on that side. It, however, has undergone so many alterations, and been devoted to such a variety of uses, that its original features are gone. StiU the foundations are of the same stone as the bar waUs, and stone loopholes the same as those in the Bar walls are remaining. The brick work is composed of bricks of various ages and manufacture — the oldest being broader and thinner than any of the others, and not unlike those which appear mixed with the stone work of the Multangular Tower. The present appearance of this ancient structure conveys but a very imperfect idea of the once stately square tower, through the loopholes of which the engines of war were pointed to protect the navy of the port of York from hostile attack. In modern times the Red Tower was used as a manufactory of brimstone (from which circumstance it is some times caUed the Brimstone House), and that has aggravated the dUapidations of time. Where the brick waUs are perfect they are about four feet thick. The port-holes are now mostiy fiUed up, and the buUding is at present used as a pig-stye. Lendal Tower has been already noticed. Besides the towers of the City ramparts, there are the remains of two other towers which belonged to the waUs of St. Mary's Abbey. One of these, caUed St. Mary's Tower, is situated HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 337 in Bootham at the end of the street called Marygate, and was blown up by a mine during the Siege of York (See page 241) ; and the other stands at the lower end of Marygate on the bank of the river. Of the small rooms or cells in the ramparts mentioned above, there are several still remaining. In the south-east corner of the City, and just within the walls, is a large mound, the origin of which is not known. In ancient deeds it is called Vetus Ballium, or Old Bayle, signifying a place of security; and probably forms the platform, as Leland and Camden suppose, of an ancient ruined Castle. The mound, which is now called Old Baile Hill, is ornamented with a smaU plantation of trees, and from its summit is a fine view of York, and of the rich country by which it is surrounded. The general opinion of historians is that there was a Castle on this arti ficial tumulus in the time of the Saxons, and that WilUam the Conqueror erected upon it a tower to serve as the chief garrison for that part of the City not lying on the same side as the Castle. It is known to have been, at a subsequent period, a prison belonging to the Archbishops, who possessed the jurisdiction of the places now called BishophUl, but the time of the origin and cessation of their authority in this part of the City is not known. The incorporation of their peculiar here with the rest of the City must have been later than 1326, for in that year a cause was tried before Queen Isabel, between the Archbishop, William de Melton, and the citizens to settle a dis pute whether the Archbishop, as Lord of the Manor, was not bound to preserve the fortifications hereabouts. The verdict affirmed his liability. All traces of the Castle upon this hiU have long since disappeared. Imme diately opposite the Old Baile Hill, on the other side of the Ouse, is a similar mound, upon which stands the ruins of Clifford's Tower, of which more anon. York Castle. — According to Drake, the historian of York, there was a Castle in this City long before the Conquest, and its supposed site is, as above intimated, the Old Baile Hill; but that fortress has now disappeared, and the present Castle was, as our author conjectures, built on a Roman foundation. It was erected by the Conqueror, near the confluence of the Foss and the Ouse, and made of great strength, so as to serve for the chief Norman garrison in Northumbria, and to keep the people in awe of their tyrant. It continued in the hands of the Crown for many subsequent reigns, and was used as the official residence of the High Sheriffs of Yorkshire in succession, as the Mansion House is now the residence of each successive Lord Mayor. It was also used as a store house for the revenues and muni tions of the Crown in the northern counties, and there was a Constable of 2 X S38 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YOEK. the Castle whose duty it was solely to attend to this department. This fortress was entirely surrounded by a deep moat, the course of which may yet be clearly traced, the buildings being thus rendered inaccessible except by two draw-bridges. The principal gate or entrance from the County, down to the early part of the last century, was on the east side, near the Castle MiUs Bridge ; and the City entrance was on the north side. A small arch under the walls in front of the latter gate, where the arms of the City were placed, shewed the spot where the ancient draw-bridge was erected; whUst the bridge, gate, towers, and sally port, on the eastern side, have all been cleared away. The remains of the towers and sally port were removed about the beginning of this century ; at which time the moat on that side of the Castle, which had formerly been supplied with water from the river Foss, was filled up, and a wall built, surmounted with iron palisades, in Ueu of it. About the time of Richard IH. the fortress had fallen very much into decay, and was then very extensively repaired. Leland, however, in the reign of Henry VIH., found it in a very ruinous condition, and says of it, " The area of this Castie is no very great quantitie — ther be five ruinous towers in it." These towers, however, presented a very interesting and pic turesque appearance. Sir Thomas Widdrington, in his MSS., says, " That part of the Castle which remains of the old foundation appears to be only the gate-house to the old building, by the proportion of the gates yet showing themselves in the east side, towards Fishergate Postern, where the great door is waUed up, and where the main building of the Castle was, as is manifest by the foundations of walls aU over the said place, if it be tried with the spade or hack." After the Castle ceased to be a military post, it was converted into a County Prison ; and in 1701, being in a very dilapidated condition, the part now called the Old Buildings was erected chiefly with stone brought from the ruins of St. Mary's Abbey. Other additions were at the same time made, in pursuance of an Act of Parliament, which levied a tax of threepence in the pound on the County to defray the expenses. Within the walls of the Castie stands the beautiful ruin caUed Clifford's Tower, which is considered one of the most graceful specimens of mediaeval architecture in the City. It stands on a lofty mound of earth, which, at some remote period, has been thrown up by immense labour. This tumulus and ruin exactly correspond with Old Baile Hill on the opposite side of the river. Drake supposes that the mound was cast up by the Romans, and that a tower was standing on it during their residence in York. Others think it )[>robable that the present tower was erected by William the Conqueror whefi HISTORY OF THE OITY OF YORK. 839 he built the Castle, and that it was intended for the " Donjon Keep," that is, the central and strongest part of the fortress. Dr. King, in his Muni- menta Antiqua, conjectures that it was originaUy built by the Conqueror, and that it is oue of the Casties mentioned in Stowe's Annals as built in 1068 ; " For," says he, " Norman Castles were built on high artificial mounds, and nearly covered the whole of the summit. The Castles built by the Saxons," he continues, " were on high mounds, or ancient barrows, and had a great plain or area surrounding them." There is, however, no record of this tower being rebuilt, but the architec ture bears evident marks of a date much later than the reign of the Norman Conqueror. It is certainly not older than the time of Edward I., and Mr. Britten thinks it was probably erected in the reign of his warlike suc cessor, Edward HI.* Though it was the Keep of the Castle, it was totally distinct from it, and was completely separated from it by a moat, which sur rounded it. The entrance to the tower, however, was from the Castle by means of a drawbridge, and a flight of steps up the side of the mount ; but these steps were removed some years ago to repair the wall near the spot. Clifford's Tower derives its name from the circumstance of a member of the noble and once powerful family of CUfford having been appointed its first Governor by the Conqueror. Sir Thomas Widdrington remarks, that the Lords CUfford were very anciently caUed Casteleyns, Wardens, or Keepers of the Tower. Though the Lord Mayor certainly cannot have any superior in dignity to him within the waUs of the City, except the King himself or the presumptive heir to the English Crown, yet the Clifford famUy have repeat edly claimed a right of carrying the City's sword before the King when he visited York. When Leland was at York, the tower, drawbridge, &c., were in ruins. " The Arx (or Keep) is aU in ruine," he says, " and the roote of the hiUe.that it standeth on is environed with an arme derived out of Fosse- Water." In the reign of Queen EUzabeth, the Corporation of York ad dressed two petitions to the Lord Treasurer Burleigh, and to CUfford, Earl of Northumberland, praying that measures might be taken for preventing the Keeper of the Castle from injuring the tower and converting its stone into lime, inasmuch as they deemed it to be of surpassing beauty and im parting more ornament to the City than anything else beside, save the Min ster, These petitions had their due effect, and the work of demolition was stopped; but it remained in an untenable state until the commencement of the war between Charles I. and the Parliament, when Drake says, " \>j * Picturesque Antiquities of EngUsh Cities, p, 5, S40 HISTORY OP THE CITY OF YOEK. the direction of Henry, then Earl of Cumberland, Lord Lieutenant of the northern parts, and Governor of York, this tower was repaired ; a consider able additional square building put to it, on that side next the Castie, on which, over the gate, in stone work, are placed the Royal Arms and those of the Cliffords, viz. chequee, a fess, ensigned with an Earl's coronet, supported by two wiverns, and this motto — DesoiTnais." These arms, &c., may stUl be seen over the gate. After being thoroughly repaired, a platform was constructed on the top, on which were mounted two demiculverins and a raker, and a garrison was appointed to defend it. During the Siege of York, in 1644, this garrison was under the command of Sir Francis Cobb, who succeeded to the office of Govemor of the City at the death of Henry, the last Earl of Cumberland. When the City came iuto the hands of the Parliamentarians, the Castle was entirely dismantied, with the exception of this tower, in which, according to a resolution in the House of Commons, dated 26th of February, 1646, a de tachment of sixty infantry soldiers were stationed, " Resolved that Clifford's Tower (York) be kept a garrison with three score foot in it." The command was then given to the Lord Mayor of York, in whose hands it continued tUl 1683, when Sir John Reresby was made Keeper by Charles II. It was how ever blown up the foUowing year by the ignition of the magazine, and reduced to its present condition. The circumstance is thus related in an old MSS. diary of those times : — " About ten o'clock on the night of St. George's day, April 23rd, 1684, happened a most dreadful fire within the tower called Clifford's Tower, which consumed to ashes aU the interior thereof, leaving standing only the outsheU of the waUs of the tower, without other harm to the City, save one man slain by the faU of a piece of timber, blown up by the force of the flames, or rather by some powder therein. It was generally thought a wilful act the soldiers.not suffering the citizens to enter till it was too late ; and what made it more suspicious was, the gunner had got out aU his goods before it was discovered." " Whether this was done accidentaUy or on purpose," says Drake, " is disputable ; it was observed that the officers and soldiers of tiie garrison had removed aU their best things before ; and it was a common toast in the City to drink to the Demolishing of the Minced Pye." The rain and adjacent grounds then passed into private hands, and in 18-23 they were purchased by the County Magistrates, with other property in the immediate neighbourhood, to enlarge the County Gaol, -for £8,800. ; of which sum £300. was the price of the ruins. At that time it was proposed by some Vandals or Goths to destroy the ruin, and level the mound with the surrounding ground, but the good taste of the HISTOEY OP THE CITY OF YORK. 341 majority of the magistracy rejected such an act, and instead of so doing, they, much to their credit, erected around it a strong stone wall, sloping with the declivity of the mound, which binds the base of the entire tumulus, and will protect it for some centuries. One of the Magistracy, G. Strick land, Esq., of Hildenby, in a pamphlet published at that time, called Reasons for not pulling down Clifford's Tower, &c., very truly observed, " that many persons are too apt to despise or to pass over in neglect those objects which are habitually presented to them, and hold in veneration such only as are distant, and with which they are comparatively little acquainted. Upon this principle we must account for the fact of so many of our countrymen tra velUng to distant regions, and returning home, expressing wonder, astonish ment, and delight, at the ruins, mountains, and valleys, which they have seen, while they remain ignorant of the merits of their own country, insen sible to its beauties, and affecting to despise its remains of antiquity. " Such persons can see a thousand charms in every broken arch, and in every ruin near the Tiber, however small the remnant — while they can find nothing to admire upon the banks of the Thames, or of the Ouse, — while they load with epithets of reproach and execration, the names of Alario, the leader of the Goths, and of Genseric, the King of the Vandals, and call their my riads of foUowers barbarians — because the one overran Greece, and plundered and destroyed the public buildings and works of art at Athens, and Corinth, and Sparta ; and the other, after taking Rome, laid waste the City, and re duced to ruin its temples and its bridges ; — in England, with unsparing hand, would level to the ground our best remains of ancient buUdings ; which have resisted the destructive efforts of time, and for ages been held up to the admiration of aU persons of education and taste, to make a foundation for a gaol or a manufactory. " That Clifford's Tower is an object not unworthy of some share of respect and of care, may perhaps be made evident by a comparison between it and some of those remains of similar form, which, because they are in Italy, are held sacred, and are preserved from destruction. Of this kind is the Castle of St. Angelo, in Rome (anciently the Mausoleum of Adrian.) Of a similar form is the sepulchre of the Plautian family, upon the bank of the Tiverone and the far-famed tomb of Cecilia MeteUa. Excepting the first, each of these is greatly inferior in size to Clifford's Tower, and all inferior in eleva tion of site and picturesque beauty." Thus we have seen that this ancient tower has had many escapes, having been burnt and exposed to the attacks of war, "but stiU it stood," says Mr. Davies, "its waUs bidding defiance to age, nor upon them ' Time writes no wrinkle' with his antique hand." 343 HlSTOHV OP THE CITY OP YORK. The plan of this beautiful specimen of feudal grandeur consists of four seg' ments of circles joined together ; the largest diameter, from periphery to periphery, being sixty-four feet, and the shortest, from intersection to inter section, being forty-five feet. The walls are between nine and ten feet thick. The mound is mounted by a flight of steps, and the ruin is entered through the modern square tower mentioned before, over which are the arms of the Clifford family. On the left of the entrance are the remains of a winding staircase, beyond whioh was the original entrance ; of the latter the remains of a ruined archway may still be seen, and near it may be traced the grooves of a portcullis, and other requisites for offence and defence. In the interior of the ruin is a draw-well of excellent water, about sixty feet deep, which in Drake's time was choked up, but is now open and weU preserved. The area of the ground floor has a singular but venerable aspect. In the centre is a large walnut tree and a few smaU shrubs, which being surrounded with the massy but desolate looking waUs of the ruins, have a curious but picturesque appearance. Proceeding round the interior of the ground floor several recesses wUl be observed in the walls, which have been designed for various purposes at present unknown. The waUs may be safely ascended by a flight of stone steps, passing a small room in the square modern tower, which was formerly used as a Chapel, and at the top of the tower the wall is sufficiently broad to walk upon aU round. From this eminence an extensive and interesting view of the neighbouring district is obtained. There is a neat and broad grass lawn round the base of the tower, and the sides of the mount on which the building stands are planted with trees and shrubs. The moat which formerly surrounded it is now fiUed up, so that the entire space forms a garden, which is tastefully laid out and kept in ex cellent order. The whole property is held, with other holds near the City, by grants from James I., to Babington and Duffield ; and the words of the grant are, " Totam ilium peciam terrse nostram scituat. Jacent, et existent in civit. nost. Ebor. vocat. Clifford's Tower." The whole area of York Castie, including this tower, the old and new gaols, the County HaU, &o., is now enclosed Tiy a very fine lofty stone wall, with an embattled parapet, and the great gate of entrance is flanked by two massy circular towers.* The modern buUdings designated York Castle, and used as the County Gaol, wiU be described at a subsequent page. * The number of Casties of whioh there are known to be existing remains is, in England, 461, Wales, 107, Sootiand, 155, Ireland, 120; total, 843. HISTORY OF THE CITY OP YOEK. 343 ANCIENT MANSIONS, HALLS, &c.— The site of the PRiETORiuM Palace— the ancient residence of the " Lords of the Universe "—during the occupation of the Romans, is placed by Burton, Drake, and WeUbeloved, on the space of ground extending from Christ Church, CoUiergate, through the houses and gardens on the east side of Goodramgate and St. Andrewgate, through the Bedern to Aldwark. The royal baths would, in all probabiUty, occupy a considerable part of the extent. After the departure of the Romans, the imperial Palace was made the residence of the Saxon and Danish Kings of Northumberland, and then of the Earls tiU the Conquest ; for Tosti, Earl of Northumberland, had his Palace at York plundered and burnt by the en raged populace. After the Conquest it became the possession of our English Kings; and in ancient records the King's House at York is called Manerium suum de Toft; and Aula Regis. From the Kings it probably came to the Dukes of York, as there was formerly a house in the neighbourhood of Christ Church caUed Duke GuUdhaU. Christ Ch urch in ancient writings is generally termed Ecclesia S. Trinitatis in aula, vel curia, regis, or in old English, Sainct Trinityes, in Conyng^garthe ; "which titie," observes Drake, "plainly denotes that the old courts of the imperial or regal Palace at York reached to this place." The Manor Palace, now caUed the Manor House, which is situated on the south side of Bootham, just without the Bar, and within the walls of St. Mary's Abbey, is the principal private mansion connected with the early his tory of York now standing. At the dissolution of the Abbey, in the 31st of Henry VIH., that Monarch ordered it to be dismantled, and a house to be built out of the materials, to be called the King's Manor; and as King Henry, for the purpose of keeping the northern counties quiet, found it necessary to establish what was called the Great Council of the North, he appropriated the Manor for the residence of the Lord Presidents of that Council. During the twelve days which Henry spent at York in 1541, he probably resided at this mansion. When James I., on his journey to London to take possession of the Crown, after the death of Queen Elizabeth, arrived at York, he resided at the Manor, and was entertained with great splendour by the Lord Mayor and Corporation. (See page 206). He then, we are told by some, ordered the Manor to be repaired and enlarged, and converted into a Royal Palace, for his own accommodation upon his journeys between London and Scotland ; but the Rev. C. WeUbeloved is of opinion that instead of repairing or enlarging the old building, he must have ordered the erection of a new one, as the residence of the Lord Presidents stood on the .site now occupied by the Musenm, and the krge cellars of that building 344 HISTORY OF THE OITY OF YOEK. may now be seen at the rear of the present Manor House ; whilst the present mansion occupies the site of the house of the Abbot of St. Mary's, which stood north of the spot upon which the mansion of Henry VIH. was built. There can be no doubt that the building which now stands was erected by King James ; and it is an interesting specimen of the style of architecture which prevaUed in that Monarch's time. Besides, there are many testimo nials of his design, in arms and other decorations about the several portals of the building. The monastic buUdings on the spot are said to have furnished abundant materials for this mansion, as weU as for that which preceded it. As this building continued to be the residence of the Lord President of the North as long as that office was continued, the original mansion was pro bably demolished, or suffered to go to ruin. The celebrated but unfortunate Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, the last Lord President, inhabited this Palace, and one of the articles of his im peachment, drawn up by John Pym, was that "he had the arrogance to put up his own arms in one of the King's Palaces." These arms still remain over one of the doorways in the inner court. In the reign of Charles I. several Parliaments and Councils were held in this mansion. During the Siege of York in 1644, the Manor was materially damaged by the forces of the Parliament, under the command of the Earl of Manchester. After un dermining and blowing up St. Mary's Tower, they made a breach in the waU lower down in Marygate, and took possession of the Palace, whilst the Royalist commanders were attending divine service at the Cathedral, it being Trinity Sunday ; the Republicans " deeming that the Lord's day," says Allen, " was the best time for doing what they denominated the Lord's work." When Chaiies TL., in consequence of the continual bickerings between the Court and the Corporation, appointed a military Govemor of the City, the Manor Palace was his official residence. Lord FretchvjUe, Baron of Stavely, was the flrst Govemor, and after his death Sir John Reresby succeeded him. He was the last Governor of York, and the Manor does not seem to have borne any pubUc character since that period. James H. granted it to the Catholics as a seminary, under the care of Bishop Smith, and a large room in it was fitted up and used as a CathoUc Chapel, where mass was celebrated openly ; but this consecrated room was in 1688 attacked and dismantled by a violent mob, who at that period entertained great fears lest the ancient faith should be re-introduced into this country. In 1696-7 the Manor was converted into a Royal Mint, and the gold and sUver coin struck here was marked with the letter Y under the King's head. After this period the King's Manor appears to have been used by private individuals. Soon after HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YOEK. S45 the Revolution, the Abbey or Manor was leased from the Crown for thirty-one years, to Robert Waller, Esq., who was Lord Mayor of York, and one of its representatives in ParUament. It was subsequently leased to Tancred Robinson, Esq., second son of Sir WiUiam Robinson, Bart., and ancestor of the Grantham family, in which it long continued. Part of the building was converted into an Assembly Room, and was used for the public balls, &c., until the present suite of rooms for these purposes were erected. Time and" depredation have reduced even the walls of this venerable fabric within narrow Umits ; part of the enclosure is in the possession of the Philosophical Society, the rest is leased for gardens, and the greater part of what remains of this once regal dwelUng has been, since 1834, in the possession of the Trustees of the Wilberforce School for the BUnd. The entrance to the outer court is through an old archway, once the entrance to St. Mary's Abbey from Bootham. On the right is a stone waU, probably buUt prior to the abdication of James II. ; having in it recesses enriched with arabesque work, apparently designed for images. The man sion is built in the quadrangular form, usual at the period of its erection. The front has two entrances, one of which — formerly the principal one — displays over the doorway, carved in stone, the Royal Arms, supported by carved columns, bearing devices, with the initials J. R. near the bottom, and surmounted with a Crown. This was formerly the entrance to the inner quadrangle or court yard ; but as this end of the building is now let out as a private dwelling, the court yard is entered by another doorway, near the centre of the building. This latter doorway is now ornamented with carved figures of Justice, and other emblematical devices, which formerly adorned the inner doorway of the original passage to the quadrangle. From the inner court yard are two ancient grand entrances into the Palace, The one on the east side, which was reached by a large flight of stone steps, and which has over it the Royal Arms, with the initials C, R., led to an apartment, eighty-one feet long and twenty-seven broad, which is by some supposed to have been the Banqueting Room, but in which tradition states several of the Parliaments held at York had assembled. In the centre of this room (which is now used as a National School) is a large ventilator. The other principal doorway is on the south side of the quadrangle, and over it still remains the arms and several quarterings of the Earl of Sti-afford, finely carved in stone. This outer doorway conducts iuto a haU or vestibule, from which a second door conducts to a broad and handsome flight of stone steps, which leads to a spa cious, lofty, and comfortable apartment, by some deemed the Council Cham ber. The doorway already mentioned, from the vestibule to the stone stair- 2 Y 346 HISTOEY OF THE OITY OF YORK. case, has a circular arch ornamented with curiously carved stone-work, above which is a massy stone frieze, supported by three singular brackets. There was formerly a communication between the Council Chamber and the Banqueting Room, by a long gallery. Adjoining the large room, at the top of the great staircase already mentioned, is a suite of apartments, in one of which is a large fire place with a curiously carved mantel piece, and this, as weU as some of the other rooms, exhibits a carved moulding along the waUs near the ceiling, in which is represented the bear and rugged staff and other grotesque figures. The large room, supposed by some to have been that used as a CathoUc Chapel* by King James, has a paneUed ceUing, and it as well as the apartment with the curious fire place, is now used as bed rooms for the boys of the School for the BUnd. The supposed Council Chamber is now a school room for the same pupils, and beneath the reputed banquet hall seems to have been a spacious kitchen, as an immense fire place and chimney yet remain. There is a large room beneath the supposed Chapel (now the sale room for 'the articles manufactured by the blind pupils) which is said to have been the royal library. The ceiling is empaneUed with massy oak mouldings. At the rear of the buildings is a space now used as a play ground for the blind pupils, which has on its south side the ruins of the kitchen and out offices of the original residence of the Lord Presidents, and beneath which are two large vaults. The ascent to each of these cellars is by a flight of stone steps. An account of the Wilberforce School fur the Blind, and the Manor Central National School, now held in these buildings, wiU be found at sub sequent pages of this volume. On the north side of Walmgate, opposite the Church of St. Dennis, near Mr. Dixon's warehouses, formerly stood Percy's Inn, the Palace of the Earl of Northumberland, who feU, flghting for the House of Lancaster, in the me morable battie of Towton Field. In an account of the' property of Henry, Earl of Northumberland (father of the above mentioned Earl), who was slain at the battie of St Albans, in the 33rd of Henry VI. (1454), a certain man sion in Walmgate, in the parish of St. Dyonis in York, caUed Percy's Inn, is included. Dugdale, in alluding to this house, says that on the ground where it stood, there was found by a labourer, several years before, one arm • Some suppose the large room with the paneUed ceUing, over the sale room for the articles manufactured by the bUnd pupils, to have been the one used as a CathoUc Chapel ; but others are of opinion that it was in the large room now occupied as a National School— the reputed Banqueting Eoom— and for some time the Assembly Eoom, that the services of the Church of Rome were celebrated. HISTOEY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 347 of a gold cup, so heavy as to be sold for the sum of £50. Percy's Inn seems to have been occupied by other famiUes after the Earls of Northumberiand forsook it. The Rev. Marmaduke FothergUl was born there in 1652. The Archiepiscopal Palace stood on the north side of the Cathedral, Having fallen into decay it was demolished, and the materials used in the construction of the choir of that church, the first stone of which was laid on the 19th of July, 1361. Within Layerthorpe Postern formerly stood a spacious residence belonging to the ancient family of Bigod, of Settrington, which is mentioned by Leland, and near it was a Hospital founded by them ; but that author remarks, that Sir Francis Bigod suffered both the Hospital and the mansion to go to ruin, and there is not now a vestige of either to be seen. Adjoinining the Church of St. Mary BishophiU the Elder, until lately existed a open piece of ground, which is now occupied partly by Mr. Cook's Optical, &c., instrument manufactory, and partly by a new street formed to connect BishophiU with Skeldergate, formerly stood a mansiot caUed Buck ingham House or Duke's Hall, it having obtained those names from the unfortunate George ViUiers, second Duke of Buckingham, of that name, who married the daughter of Lord Fairfax, and resided here in the reign of Charles II. The mansion was originally built by the Fairfax family. Davy, or Lardiner Hail, an ancient building which stood in Davygate, was part of the possessions held by grand serjeanty of the King, in capite, by David le Lardiner. Leland says that, " Davy's Haul" in York was assigned as a place of punishment for offenders in the Forest of Galtres. Sir Thomas Widdrington drew out a genealogical table of this family, and the pedigree is pubUshed in Drake's Eboracum, page 326. From this it appears that the family came to England with the Norman Conqueror, and enjoyed many privileges in York by royal grant during many successive generations. In enumerating the privileges of the Lardiner family, Sir Thomas gives the fol lowing particulars: — "In the pleas of assize in the County of York, the morrow after the feast of St. Michael, before Silvester, Bishop of Carlisle, Roger de Thurkleby, and their companions. Justices itinerant in the 35th and the beginning of the 36th year of Henry IL, the King gave command to those Justices to enquire, by jury, what liberty the ancestors of David le Lardiner had used in the City of York ; and how and what liberties the said David claimeth by the charters of any of the King's predecessors. Thereupon David came in, and said that it did belong to the serjeanty which he holds in York, to receive, &c. ; as enumerated in the foUowing reply : — " And the jurors found that the ancestors of David le Lardiner, had really 348 history of the city of york. used the following liberties : — To make the larder of the King — To keep the prisoners of the forest — To have the measure of the King for corn ; and to seU the King's com. That they had daUy, out of the King's purse, fivepence ; and for these his ancestors had charters. Sometimes they used this Uberty, to take, every Saturday, from every window of the bakers where bread was set to sale, a loaf or an halfpenny — Of every brewer of ale, a gaUon of ale or an halfpenny- — Of every butcher's window, a pennyworth of flesh or a penny — Of every cartload of fish sold at Foss Bridge, four pennyworth of fish as they were bought at the sea side ; and of every horseload of fish, a penny worth or a penny. That they used to make distresses of the King's debts, and to take fourpence for every distress ; and that they were Aldermen of MinstreUs.* The ancestors of David le Lardiner have used these liberties in the time of King Henry, grandfather to the King which now is, and in the time of King Richard, tiU they were hiudred ; and they used aU these liberties in the name of the seijeanty which they held of the King. The record was sent to the King." These extraordinary privUeges, whioh were extremely unpleasant and op pressive to the citizens of York, continued tiU the 37th of Henry HI. (1258), " when," says Drake, " a fine was levied at Westminster, before the King's Justices, between David le Lardiner, plaintiff, and John de Selby, Mayor, and the citizens of York, deforciants ; by which the said David did remit and » Eratemities of Minstrels or Gleemen were estabUshed in most towns of consequence even so early as the reign of King Athelstan, and they were well supported by their pro fession for many ages after the Norman Conquest. The Minstrels seem to be the descendants of the ancient bards, for they exhibited in one person the musician and the poet It is stated that the Courts of Princes swarmed with poets and minstrels. The King and most of the nobiUty retained their own minstrels, who wore their respective Uveries. The minstrels were generaUy governed by stated rules, and played at wed dings, feasts, fairs, cross days, &c., under the direction of their leader, who was of neces sity an Alderman of the borough. They waited for no invitation, bnt considering ad- . mission into the halls of the nobiUty as an imdeniable privUege due to their talents, they entered without ceremony, and seldom departed without a Uberal reward. The ex cessive privUeges which the minstrels enjoyed in aU parts of the Kingdom, and the long continuance of pubUc favour, with the gratuities coUected by them, induced great num bers of loose and dissolute persons to join the fraternity, and its reputation became much diminished in the pubUo estimation. These evils became at last so notorious, that in the rei^n of Edward II. it was found necessary to restrain them by a pubUe edict. In littie more than a century afterwards these grievances again became the subject of com plaint to the King. In the reign of Elizabeth, the professors of minstrelsy were ranked amongst rogues, vagabonds, and sturdy beggars, and at a later period in history, the minsti-els are generaUy identified with Waites (a corruption of the word wait, to watch), and they were sometimes styled Histriones. HISTOEY OP THE OITY OF YORK. 849 release to the Mayor and citizens all his right in the above articles, except the Keeper of the King's jail and larder, for the sum of twenty marks, paid him by the said Mayor and citizens." After the death of David Lardiner, the hall passed by marriage to the famiUes of Leke, Thornton, Thwaites, and Fairfax ; and was in time transferred to George ViUiers, Duke of Bucking ham, who married Mary, only daughter of Thomas, Lord Fairfax, to whom Sir Thomas Widdrington was related. As neither the Mayor or Sheriffs could arrest or take fines, nor disturb any person, though not a freeman, from carrying on his business on these premises, the Corporation purchased the hall with all its privUeges, by which it became subject to their jurisdiction; and the building been greatly out of repair, was taken down in 1744, the materials sold, and the ground let on building leases to Mr. Charles Mitley, sculptor, reserving a street from Davygate into Coney Street. Mr. William Carr, brother-in-law to Mr. Mitley, took down the old haU, and built a row of six good houses, whioh being roofed in July, 1746, on the very day when WilUam, Duke of Cumberland, visited York after the battle of CuUoden, were, through respect to him, called Cumberland Row. These six houses, with one built by the late Mr. Peokett more immediately in ¦ Davygate, are all extra parochial. The title of Cumberland Row is now nearly lost, and the houses form part of New Street. Near Coffee Yard, in Stonegate, was anciently a large house called Mul berry HiLL, supposed by Mr. Hargrove to be a corruption of the words Mowbray HaU ; as in several early records the former name is often written Midbrai Hall. Mr. Hargrove conjectures that it was formerly a house be longing to the powerful famUy of the Mowbrays. The house in Stonegate, now in the occupation of Mr. Sunter, bookseUer, is said to be the haU, or a portion of the haU, in question. According to some, Hugo Bois, or Goes, set up his printing presses here in 1507. In a yard in Coney Street, nearly opposite St. Martin's Church, is a very ancient brick building, with stone quoins and dressings, which has appa rently been used as a Bagnio, the remains of one bath being yet visible. The buUding has, however, been devoted to" such a variety of purposes of late years, that its original use cannot be ascertained with certainty. It is now converted into dwellings. The George Inn, Coney Street, is remarkable for its antiquity, and has been known to exist for 250 years as a hotel. The occupier of this once famous hostelry, in the reign of James I., has been immortaUzed by John Taylor, known as the " Water Poet," who in 1622 sailed in an open boat from London to York, and published a quaint description of the trip, under 350 HISTORY, OF THE CITY OP YOEK. the title of " A Very Merry Wherry-Ferry Voyage." The poet describes his arrival in York, at the assize time, in the midst of hangings, his interview with the Lord Mayor, and the ultimate sale of his boat to " honest Mr. Kay, of Conyngstreet." The general plan of the George Inn, which, by the way, has lately been divided and sold, with its gateway and inner quadrangle, resembles some of those old hostelries of the middle ages, of which we have a few specimens yet remaining. Most of the front is modern. The house had formerly gable fronts to the street, elaborately ornamented in wood and plaster, with designs of similar age and character to the decorations of the interior. Amidst a profusion of scroll work and foliage and other fanciful devices, was a grotesque fuU length figure of a seated Bacchus grasping in each hand a cornucopia. The seven pillars in front of the house, were put up in 1716, by Mr. George Peckitt, and were intended to support the building and to ornament the street. A very curious porch was cut in half in making the alterations in the front ; the portion which remains has several fine bosses, one of which a pelican feeding her young is in very good order, but much disfigured by paint. A large antique apartment in the house — the State Drawing Room — is worthy of notice. The carved wainscot which lines tiie walls, and the plaster work of the ceiling are richly decorated in the style that prevailed during the earlier part of the seventeenth century. But the most remark able decoration in the room is — or perhaps we had better say, was — a singu larly interesting group, of five heraldic achievements, in painted glass, executed in the reign of Charles H., and consisting of the armorial bearings of that Sov ereign, the Earl of Strafford, the Earl of Northumberiand, &c. Mr. Davies, in one of his lectures at the York Institute, on the Antiquities of York, ob served that if he might conjecture how this memorial of the " Merry Monarch" had got there, he would say that it was possible, and even highly probable, that he and his gay companions had frequentiy partaken of the good cheer of " mine host" of the George, and had in return presented him with this mark of their patronage. Mr. AUen, who wrote in 1829, teUs us, that tiU a few years previous to that time, there was an old and curiously carved gateway into the yard of this Inn, which weU deserved preservation. In the yard may yet be traced the remains of strong stone walls, which tradition informs us were part of the buildings belonging to the ancient GuUd of St. George. In the lanes whioh run from Coney Street to the river Ouse, are the re mains of strong stone buildings, which at some former period may have been important. HISTOEY OF THE CITY OP YOEK. 851 The old building in Newgate, and the ancient pile, caUed St. William's College, will be noticed at subsequent pages. The Castle Mills, which tiU lately stood near the bridge which took its name from them, were of very ancient origin, and were the property of the Castle, but aUenated in the time of Queen Elizabeth, An old document states that in the fourth of Edward I. (1276), the Knights Templars had mills near the Castle of York, which afterwards belonged to the Kings of England. During the reign of Edward II. they were rented by lease for forty marks per annum; by whioh we may judge of their extent at that time; and as the situation is exactly described in the Register of Fountains Abbey, there is no doubt as to their identity. From the Crown they passed to Sir Thomas Hesketh, of Heslington, near York, for the support of an Hospital, which he founded in that village. The Foss Navigation Company afterwards requiring the water which worked the machinery, agreed with the trustees of the said Hospital to take the premises into their own hands, subject to an annual payment of £50. to the Hospital, The MiUs ultimately became the property of the Corporation of York, and were pulled down in 1856, together with all the adjacent buildings, to make room for the construction of a basin, and the formation of a landing place for coals, &c., to be called St. George's Wharfe. The extensive improvements, which of late years have been effected, are fast sweeping away those numerous specimens of ancient domestic architec ture for which York was so very remarkable. Every year diminishes those curious exteriors, and it is probable that another generation wiU possess only drawings and elevations of the buildings now common. The etchings of Halfpenny and Cave, made towards the close of the last century, show many interesting objects whioh have now altogether disappeared. Britten, in his Architectural Antiquities, gives the following quotation from Mr. Strutt which explains very clearly the style of the kind of buildings most common in the old houses in the streets of York : — " From the reion of Edward I. to that of Henry VH., the common run of houses especially among the middUng sort of people, were built with wood. They generaUy made large porches before the principal entrances, with great halls and large parlours. The frame-work was constructed with beams of timber of such enormous size, that the materials of one house, as they built anciently, would make several of equal size according to the present mode of building. The common method of making waUs was to nail laths to the timber frame, and strike them over with rough plaster, which was afterwards whitened and or namented with fine mortar, and this last was often beautified with figures 362 history of the city of yoek. and other curious devices. The houses in the cities and towns were built each story jetting ever the former story, so that when the streets were not wide, the people at the top from opposite houses, might not only talk and converse with each other, but even shake hands together. The houses were covered with tiles, shingles, slates or lead, except in the City of London, where shingles were prohibited, with a view to prevent fires." Before the present Ouse Bridge was built, in 1810, aud the approaches to it called Low Ousegate and Bridge Street widened, the houses answered so closely to this description, that the people in the top stories could in some cases converse, and almost shake hands together. The streets whioh stiU retain the greatest number of these houses are those leading from Castiegate to the banks of the river, and the Shambles. There are also some curious specimens in Petergate, Stonegate, and Fossgate. The houses out of Bootham Bar, with the curiously-designed brick-work, are not older than the seventeenth century. Names of Steeets, &c. — In the names of several of the streets of York, the termination gate is used to describe a street or lane, as Marygate, Peter gate, Micklegate, Ousegate, &c., whilst the greater gates or entrances to the City are denominated Bars, as Micklegate Bar, Bootham Bar, &c. ; the lesser ones Posterns, as Castiegate Postern, Fishergate Postern, &c. The word gate is probably derived from the Danish " gata," a street, as many of the names of the suburbs are of Danish-Norwegian origin, as Clementhorpe, Bishop thorpe, Middlethorpe, Layerthorpe, &c., the termination thorpe being derived from " dorp," a village. Several of the streets stiU retain the names they bore in mediaeval times. Micklegate, formerly called Micklelyth, which extends from St. John's Church near Ouse Bridge, to the Bar to which it gives name, merely impUes a large, great, or spacious street ; Mickle in the Anglo-Saxon language signi fying great, and Lyth, a port or gate. This name also is derived from the Danish "MykiU," great, and "gata," Street. Camden, in 1586, spoke of Micklegate as " a long street and broad," the houses having gardens and orchards, and fields for sports. Many of the houses in this street are of a better class, and were erected when numbers of aristocratic families lived in York during the winter months. Those at the upper end, we are told by Mr. Davies, belonged, chiefly, to' CathoUc families. According to the same authority, the aristocratic persons who resided in Micklegate a century ago, had not the conveniences which the present residents possess, as in 1750, they are found asking the Corporation to grant them two feet of flagging next to their houses, with posts and chains to protect foot passengers from the HISTOEY OF THE CITY OF YOEK. 853 incursions of horses.* Micklegate was the widest and most elegant street in York a few years ago, and is now surpassed only by ParUament Street. Monkgate leads from Monk Bar to Monk Bridge, and is supposed to be indebted for its name to a Monastery of Crouched Friars, which tradition informs us formerly stood in it at the corner of Barker HiU. Beyond Monk Bridge Ue the viUage and moor of Heworth ; and towards the north, forming a boundary of the lands of Ulphus, is a lane which was anciently termed Goyse Lane. From a perambulation, made in the 28th of Edward IH. (1355), it appears that the Forest of Galtres reached up to the walls on this side of the City. (See the second volume of this history). Walmgate, leading from Foss Bridge to V/almgate Bar, is supposed by Mr. Drake and others to be a corruption of the ancient Roman name Watlingate, which the street immediately without the Bar bore even in modern times. This latter street (now called Lawrence Street) is supposed to have been the commencement of the Roman roads which led to the Humber, aud to some of the ports on the German Ocean, and to have derived its former appellation from the great Roman road, WatUng Street. It is now the direct road to HuU, Bridlington, &c. Some imagine that Walmgate merely implied Tripe Street. Mr. Hargrove considers the name but a corruption of VaUumgate — VaUum being the Latin name for a wall or bulwark for security, as this street not only leads to the present Walmgate Bar, but also to Fishergate Bar and the Red Tower. Bootham is a fine, wide, open, airy street beyond the north gate of the City, communicating with the viUage of Clifton. The Romans having in terred their dead out of Bootham Bar, as also without Micklegate Bar, Dean Gale supposes that the name of Bootham was derived from the British word boeth, to burn. The monks of St. Mary's Abbey held a fair in free burgage out of this Bar, on which occasion a hamlet of booths were regularly erected ; and henee, according to some, the word Bootham. And here we shaU make a digression for the purpose of showing the origin of fairs. Fairs appear to have originated from the meetings of people at the anni- • Mr. Davies, in one of his interesting lectures on the Antiquities of York, stated that the house in Micklegate, now occupied by the Miss Cromptons, was erected by the famUy of the Bouchiers, one of whom. Sir John Bouchier, signed the death warrant of King Charles I. The house where Dr. Williams now resides once belonged to tbe family of Bathurst ; it was also occupied by the Marchioness of Conyngham, a near relation of the present Lord Londesborough. The Thompsons, ancestors of Lord Wenlock, for merly resided in this part of the street. The house occupied by the late B. Hague, Esq., was once the town residence of the Garforths, of Wiganthoi-pe, who, two centuries ago were amongst the first merchants of York. 2 z 354 HISTOEY OP THE CITY' OF YORK. versaries of the dedication of Churches. It was the custom in ancient times for reUgious people to meet together on the evening of the day preceding the anniversary of the dedication of the Church, or on the eve of the festival of the Saint in whose honour the Church was dedicated, and they sometimes continued to watch and pray in the Church aU night Hence the term Vi^il, which is applied to the eve of great festivals. On the day of the dedication of the Church, or on the festival of the martyr whose reUcs were placed in the Church, it was aUowed by Pope Gregory that the people might make booths of the boughs of trees, around the Church, and observe a reUgious feast. "In the beginning of holi churche," says an old document " it was so that the pepuU cam to the churche with candeUys brennying, and wold wake, and coome with Ught toward the chirche, in their devooions." These watchings, wakes, or feasts, having degenerated into riotous meetings, were at last suppressed, and regular fairs substituted for them — hence the most ancient fairs will be found to correspond with the dedication of the Churches of the places in which they are held. They were kept in the Church yards tiU restrained by Act of ParUament in 1285. In many rural parishes we have still a remnant of the ancient feasts or wakes observed, though entirely denuded of the reUgious element. And the carol singing by musicians, called Waits, in the streets before Christmas, is another remnant of those ancient wakes — the word ivaites being a corruption of wakes or watching. Fairs were granted to religious houses as a source of profit as well as con venience, and, they were appointed to take place on festivals, that trade might attract those whom religion could not influence. The fair of the Abbot of St. Mary's, at Bootham, York, caused many serious disputes between the Abbots and the citizens, tiU Archbishop Thoresby, in 1354, effected an agree ment between the parties; respecting the bounds of each jurisdiction. In the reigns of Henry HI. and Edward I., the great fairs lasted fourteen days, and were the scenes where the principal part of the traffic of the Kingdom was transacted, as they were frequented not only by people of aU the surrounding country, but by foreign as weU as EngUsh merchants. They were held by prescription, and under the authority of royal charters, and yielded a consi derable profit to the lords or owners who had jurisdiction in all matters of dispute, and administration of justice at Courts oi piepoudre whioh were ap purtenant, as a matter of common right to every fair. (Stat. 17 Edw. I. c. 2). A priest was also appointed on such occasions to celebrate Divine Service, and sermons were preached from a pulpit erected in the open air, at stated times during the fairs, for the benefit of strangers resorting to them. The fairs were sought because shops were rare, and stores for a whole year were then HISTORY OP THE CITY OP YORK. 355 laid in by housekeepers. In the expenses of the Northumberland household it appears that stores for the Earl's house at Wressil Castle for the whole year, were laid in from fairs. " He that stands charged with my lord's house for the houU yeir, if he may possible shall be at all fairs ; where the groice emptions shall be boughte for the house for the houU yeir, as wine, wax, beiffes, multons, wheite, and maltie." (Beiffes and multons were salted oxen and sheep). The historians of York have uot left us any description of the great fair in Bootham, but we may rest satisfied that it, as well as some of the other fairs in Yorkshire, was not all inferior to a fourteen days fair at Cambridge, which is described by Carter, in his account of Cambridgeshire in 1753. The shops, or booths, he teUs us, were built in rows like streets, having each their name, as Bookseller's Row, Cook Row, &c., and every com modity had its proper place, as the Cheese fair. Hop fair. Wool fair, &c. In these places, streets, or rows, were all sorts of traders who sold by wholesale or retail. And as to the amount of business transacted, he says, that after the trade of the fair had begun to decline, £100,000. worth of wooUen goods had been known to be sold in a week's time, in the Duddery, the draper's department A prodigious trade had been carried on by the taUors from London, and it was not unfrequent for a wholesale man to carry back orders for £10,000. worth of goods. There was one booth of Norwich stuffs, he assures us, in which there were goods to the value of £20,000. The returns for wool at one fair, he adds, amounted to nearly £60,000., and for hops little less. This gives us an idea of the magnitude of the ancient fairs or marts in England. Bootham, according to Drake was " the King's Street, and extended from Bootham Bar to a wooden gate, at the farther end of it, which anciently was called Galmhawlith ; where the officers of the City used to stand to take and receive the toU and customs.'' The Dean and Chapter, we are told by Allen, claim jurisdiction on the north side of Bootham, as part of the territories, " De terra Ulphi ;" but on the south side from the Abbey gate to St. Mary's Tower, the houses are in the County, being buUt where the ditch of the Abbey waU formerly was. At the end of Bootham, near the viUage of Clifton, is the basement of an ancient cross or boundary stone, now designated Burton Stone, and near it is Burton Lane, whioh led out of the suburbs into the ancient Forest of Galtres. The place probably derives its name from a famUy named Burton, who were possessed of property in the neighbourhood. Burton Lane was formerly caUed Chapel Lane, from the Hospital and Chapel of St Mary Magdalene, which stood near it, but of which no remains are now visible. The miU in the lane existed in the time of Richard II. Near 8'S6 HISTORY OP THE OITY OP YOEK. Burton Stone, in the time of the Plantagenets, the City tropps and trained bands assembled when called out to check the incursions of the Soots, and here they received their last inspection by the Mayor and citizens.* The legal boundary of the City extends tp Burton Stone, on the north side; but on the south side the City jurisdiction only commenced at Bootham Bar. In the field nearly opposite the Burton Stone, some stone coffins were found in 1813. Gillygate, leading from Bootham to the north end of Lord Mayor's Walk, derives its name from the ancient Church of St. GUes, which, according to Mr. Hargrove, stood about half way down the street on the west side. Lord Mayor's Walk was once caUed Newbegin, and is described in an old document as " Newbegin, aUas Gillygate.'' Penley Grove, commonly called The Groves— the district north of Lord Mayor's Walk — is a corruption of Payneley Crofts, and probably derives its name from a gentleman of the name of Payneley, who flrst enclosed the land in this locaUty from the ancient Forest of Galtres, to which it previously belonged. Horse Fair was the name given to a piece of ground (now enclosed) at the north end of Lowther Street, Groves, it being the place where many of the York fairs were formerly held. At these fairs booths were erected for the purpose of trade, as was done at the Abbot of St. Mary's fair already men tioned. In ancient writings the district extending from the place formerly called the Horse Fair to Bootham, is called Le Horse Ayre. Marygate, which runs southward from Bootham to the river, clearly implies that the street leads to the site of St. Mary's Abbey, the remains of the prin cipal entrance to the Abbey being in this street. Marygate was anciently called Earlsburgh, from Earl Alan who founded the Abbey, or probably from the Danish Earl Siward, who resided here. Not far from the entrance to this street formerly stood an unshapely building known as the Cockpits, where in days of yore cockfighting was carried on as a favourite amusement of the gentry of the County. In 1748 Sir J. Lister Kaye fought twenty-eight batties vrith game cocks, and won eighteen. At present, however, the bar barous amusement has fallen into desuetude, and it must be regarded as an ameUoration of manners, that there is no gentieman who now breeds birds for the purpose of fighting.f ? " An Antiqiiarian Eamble through York," — a lecture deUvered by Robert Davies, Esq., P.S.A., at the York Institute, on the J 4th February, 1854. + Cock fighting is a vicious pastime, which has the sanction of high antiquity. It is said to have originated with the Athenians, and was exhibited before the soldiers HISTOEY OF THE CITY OF YORK. 357 Almrygarth, a field near Marygate, in which the Abbots of St. Mary kept their cattle that were ready for kiUing. Here were also the Abbots' fish-ponds. Coney Street, anciently " Conyng Strete," leads from St, Helen's Square to Spurriergate, This street has for some time been considered the principal street of the City for business. It is mentioned in Domesday Book, Coney is a corruption of the Saxon word Conyng, signifying Eing. Spurriergate, a continuation of Coney Street, is so called because it was anciently the residence of the makers and dealers in spurs, when that ap pendage of the person was a much larger and more costly article than at present. Formerly it was usual for the members of one trade to live in the same street and the derivation of Spurriergate, CoUiergate, Fishergate, and Girdlergate, is to be ascribed to this circumstance. In the reign of King Edward HI., the Church of St. Michael, Spurriergate, is described as being in Conyng Street; and it appears by the churchwarden's books of St. Michael's parish, that more than two hundred years ago, Spurriergate was caUed Littie Coney Street ; hence it is obvious that Spurriergate is a name given at a later date to that part of Conyng or Coney Street. Before the year 1769, Spurriergate must have been a narrow dirty lane, for we find that in that year half of the houses near the entrance from Ousegate were taken down, and rebuilt so far back as to make the street twice its original width. The expense of this improvement was defrayed by a general subscription, to which the directors of the Assembly Rooms contributed £870. UntU 1841 this street, although one of the most frequented in the City, was one of the nar rowest and most inconvenient. In that year one side was taken down and rebuilt, and the street widened. St. Helen's Square is so denominated from the Church of St. Helen abut ting upon it. Blake Street is probably derived from the naval hero of the Commonwealth, Mr, Drake supposes it to have been originaUy Bleake Street, from its ex- on the eve of an engagement, under an idea that it inspired them with extraordinary courage. The Eomans imitated the Greeks in their fondness for this amusement, and from the Eomans it passed into Britain. The refined and heightened cruelty of what the lovers of this barbarous diversion termed a Welsh main, need only be described to excite horror and disgust in a sensitive mind. Sixteen pairs of fighting cocks, after long training, were opposed to each other, until each bird had kUled his antagonist. The remainder being equally divided were again pitted, in their exhausted state, until eight others were destroyed. The survivors, though fatigued, spent and covered with dust and blood, were once more divided ; and so on, until only one of these unfortunate creatures remained. This cruel sport has been totally suppressed under the Publican's Licensing Act, 358 HISTORY OP THE OITY OP VOEK. posure to the north winds; but Allen thinks that this derivation seems incompatible withevery principle of etymology, "for on such an explanation," says he, " every town and city in the Kingdom would have its Bleake Streets." Little Blalce Street was formerly caUed Loup or Lap Lane, most probably from St. Lupus, Bishop of Troyes, who came over to England with the concurrence of Pope Celestine, in company with St. Germains, Bishop of Auxerre, in 429, to resist the Pelagian heresy, then infesting this country. It is also conjectured that its original name was derived from the Belgic word Loop, signifying a range of bars joined together; this being closely contiguous to Bootham Bar, the Minster Gates, and Lendal Postern. This street, though stiU narrow, was much more so tiU the year 1786, when it was widened and paved on each side by subscription. Lendal, the street leading from the Mansion House to the Museum gates, was ancientiy called Old Conyng, or Old King Street. It appears that this part of City, down to the river, was formerly called LendaU, which term, Drake supposed to imply Land-all; having originated from their being a staith or landing place there, but adds that he imagines the name arose from the hUl near St. Leonard's Hospital, and was an abbreviation of Leonard's HiU. Mr. AUen thinks that as a declivity was anciently termed, both in England and Scotiand, a dell, or in the Dutch language, dal ; and as there is a strong declivity here, particularly below St. Leonard's Hospital, Leonard might for brevity be easUy corrupted to Lend ; and by adding to it the pre ceding word, the name would appear complete. The landing place at Lendal Ferry was formerly known as St. Leonard's Landing, for here we find, in the reign of Henry V., when Lord Scrope was attainted for treason, the Lord Mayor, in his capacity of escheator, seized certain ships belonging to his lordship, lying " at St. Leonard's Landing, in the river Ouse." The street at the end of Lendal, and extending from the end of St. Leo nard's Place to the river, was until recently called Lendal Street, or Back Lendal ; now it is denominated Museum Street. That portion of it between the ends of Lendal and St. Leonard's Place was once called Finkle, or Finckle Street, which appeUation is derived, according to Mr. Hargrove, from the Danish word Vincle, which means an angle or corner. This was known as Finkle Street in the reign of James I. In 1782 a row of houses on the north west side was erected, which rendered it very narrow, but in 1846 these were taken down through the UberaUty and good taste of the Corporation, and thus the ruins of St. Leonard's Hospital were brought to public view. A narrow street, leading from the comer of St Sampson's Square intp HISTORY OF THE OITY OF YOEK, 359 Swinegate, is now caUed Finkle Street. It was tUl lately also caUed Muckey Pegg Lane, probably from some notorious character who resided in it. The space between St. Leonard's Cloisters and St. Leonard's Place was formerly caUed Mint Yard, from the fact of a royal mint having been estabUshed in its vicinity. Davygate is a narrow street leading from St. Helen's Square to St. Samp son's Square. In ancient writings it is called Davygate Lardiner, from Davy or Lardiner's HaU, which formerly occupied the site of the first six houses at the top of New Street. (See page 347). St. Sampson's Square, or Thursday Market, is a large open area in the vi cinity of the Church of St. Sampson, in which formerly was held the principal market in the City, and in which is still held the Butcher's Market. The brutal and degrading practice of bull baiting used often to be exhibited here ; and near the centre of the Market Place was formerly a large bull-ring, which constituted a privUege to every freeman who was a householder, and resided within sight of it, to right of stray over Knavesmire, and the other common land belonging to Micklegate Ward. A few years ago extensive improve ments were effected in this locality. The square was enlarged and thrown into Parliament Street, and a new outlet formed from it through St. Sampson's Churchyard, called -Church Street. The bull-ring was removed, but the privileges of the freemen still remain. At elections for Members of Parlia ment for the City, the hustings are always erected in this square. Parliament Street, or the New Market, between St. Sampson's Square and Pavement, is a very wide and handsome street formed between the years 1834 and 1836. To effect the alteration in this locality a large mass of old and decayed tenements were removed. Parliament Street is certainly the best street in York. Jubbergate, or Jewbergate, recently called Market Street, leads from Par liament Street to Spurriergate, and has lately been widened so as to afford additional facilities for traffic. The learned Dr. Langwith derived the name of Jubbergate from Bretgate or Jowbretgate, the names given to this locality in some ancient deeds. By the term Bretgate, he understood British Street, and considered that here was a street inhabited by the native Britons before the ancient Roman City was founded by Agricola. In process of time, he thinks, it became the residence of the Jews, or that part of York where they were permitted to settle (for in every City where they were tolerated they had a certain locality assigned them for their residence, which was separated from the rest by waUs, gates, and bars, and hence styled Jews-burg), and was consequently Jew-bret-gate, which in succeeding ages might be written 360 HISTOEY OP THE CITY OP YOEK. Joubretgate and Jubbergate. One half of this street— the part north of the intersection of Feasegate and Peter Lane— was formerly caUed High Jubber gate, and the other end Low Jubbergate. It is now pretty weU estabUshed that the piece of ground on the banks of the Foss,. long known by the name of Jewbry or Jewbury was the place of interment of the Jewish population of the City, where, says Mr. Davies, " the Isaacs and Rebeccas of York have reposed for five or six centuries." Hoveden informs us that King Henry H., in 1177, granted to the Jews the privUege of having a burial place without the waUs of every City in England ; prior to which they were obliged to convey their dead to London for interment. The Jews were a rich and nu merous body in York during the tweUth century. They had formerly a Synagogue in Walmgate.* Feasegate extends from the south east corner of St Sampson's Square to Market Street, and has also been very much improved. Dr. Langwith imagined that an image dedicated to St. Faith had formerly stood in this street, which in old French is written S. Fe ; and hence remarks that the name should be Feesgate. Drake supposes that Feasegate took its name from the old EngUsh /ease or feag flagellare, to beat with rods, and is thereby led to conjecture that offenders were whipped through this street and round the market. Allen thinks it probable that it was originally Feastgate, from its proximity to Jubbergate ; and considering the peculiar religious customs of the people who resided there, he concludes that the Jews from the neigh bouring towns and viUages, might, at their periodical feasts held in York- have been accommodated in this Street. Previous to the alterations effected a few years ago on the west side of St. Sampson's Church, the street now called Church Street, but formerly Gird lergate, extended only from Petergate to Swinegate, or near to the east end of St. Sampson's Church. By the late alterations this street is continued through the churchyard into St. Sampson's Square, which is a great im provement. Girdlergate was so called from having been the general place of residence for persons of that trade ; for though there are not any girdlers now in York, they were formerly so numerous as to form themselves into a company, which was governed by a master and other officers, who were annu ally chosen, and which held its periodical meetings at their common hall. Swinegate and Patrick's Pool, in this neighbourhood, are very low places. • It is stated that the whole number of Jews now in England is only 30,000, 20,000 of whom are located in London, Russia contains I4 miUions. Constantinople, 80,000, and India, ] 7,000 Jews. It is also stated that out of the 20,000 in London, 2,000 are baptised Christians. HISTOEY OF THE CITY OP YOEK. 361 In Swinegate stood the ancient Church of St. Benedict, and on its site a number of houses were erected, which were known by the name of Bennet's- rents ; but these houses have given way to recent improvements. Patrick's Pool is met with in documents as early as 1235. The Shambles are so called from being chiefly inhabited by butchers. The ancient name of this street was High Mangergate, variously supposed to be derived from the French word Manger, to eat, and from the Saxon word Mangere, implying trade. Newgate is a narrow street in this locality, so named from a prison in it, part of which is yet remaining. It is named in the fourteenth century, and has been an object of interest to Archaeologists. It appears that the Vicars Choral possessed a house near the yard of St. Sampson's Church, where they lived together and had a common haU, and it is supposed that this was the buUding. In later times it was probably converted into a prison for offenders within the precincts of the Court, a royal residence having been in the neigh bourhood. It is a large ancient looking stone building in bad condition. The windows are square headed, with labels, and the structure stiU retains the appearance of a place of confinement. In 1754 it was licensed as a place of worship for Protestant Dissenters. It is now occupied as a warehouse. Petergate, a long street extending from Bootham Bar to King's Square, takes its name from its vicinity to the Cathedral. The south entrance of this street has been very much widened and beautified. King's Square, formerly called the Hay Market, received its name doubt less from its proximity to the site of the ancient Palace of the Saxon and Danish Kings of Northumbria. In 1768 a part of the Church and a house were pulled down to improve the thoroughfare, making the open space which now exists. Goodramgate, or Gotherhamgate, leading from King's Square to Monk Bar, is a long narrow street, supposed to have derived its name from the circum stance of its having once contained the residence of a Danish General named Godram, Gotheram, or Guthrum, who was Deputy Govemor of York. Uggleforth, or Ogleforth, is a small street leading from Goodramgate to the east end of the Cathedral. Dr. Langwith conceives the derivation of this name to be from the British word Uchel, denoting High, and Poth, now written and pronounced forth, a gate, together meaning Highgate; and henee we may suppose that a principal gate entrance to the Close of the Cathedral formerly stood hereabouts. Mr. WeUbeloved says, " The remains of a rather large gateway to the Close of the Minster was found a few years ago about the middle of Ogleforth." 3 A 362 HISTOEY OF THE CITY OP YOEK. College Street, leading from the east end of the Minster to Goodramgate, is so named from the ancient College of St. William being situated in it. In an old house near the Goodramgate end, Mr. George Hudson, for some time called the " RaUway King," at one time kept a linen draper's shop. CoUiergate is a continuation of Petergate and King's Square. This name was given to it from its having been the residence of several persons engaged iu the coal trade. Fossgate is a continuation of CoUiergate to the Foss, and hence its name. St. Saviourgate, which runs from the Church of St Crux to Spen Lane, is so caUed from St. Saviour's Church standing in it. It appears that the upper part of this street was formerly known by the name of Ketmangergate, " pro bably," says a learned writer, "because it may have been the market for horses' flesh, for that is caUed ket, and used to be eaten about the time of the Conquest, particularly the flesh of young foals." Mr. Hargrove tells us that it is generally supposed that a Roman Temple formerly stood in or near this street, as in digging some foundations on the north side of it many years ago, large quantities of the horns of several kinds of beasts were discovered. Its proximity to the Imperial Palace increases the probability.* Previous to the alterations and improvements in the neighbourhood of the Church of St. Crux, about eighteen years ago, there was an ancient stone in the wall of a house at the entrance to this street, which is now in the Museum, and on which is inscribed — " Here stood the image of Yorlce, and remicned in the year of our Lord God a.m. vc. i. unto the Common Hall in the time of the mairalty of John Stockdale.'' King Ebrauc, the presumed founder of York, is believed to be what is here meant by the image of York ; and it is supposed that the first stone was laid under his direction not far from the site of this inscription. The image is thought to have been of wood ; and in the records of the City is the fol lowing curious entry relative to it : — " On January 15th, and the 17th of Henry VII., the image of Ebrauke, which stood at the west end of St. Sa viourgate, was take down, new made, and transported from thence and set np at the east end of the Chapel at the common haU." St. Andrewgate, leading from King's Square to Aldwark, received its name from the desecrated Church of St Andrew, which stands iu it At the east end of the Church of St. Crux was formerly a short narfow street named Whipmawhopmagate, formed by a row of houses, which ran on a Une with the west side of ColUergate to the centre of Pavement; and on ? History of York, vol. u,. page 330, HISTOEY OF THE CITY OP YOEK. 363 the south side of the Church was another row of houses, which formed a nar row and inconvenient lane, generally inhabited by hosiers, and consequently called Hosier Lane. The removal of these two lanes has very much improved this locality, by widening the east end of Pavement, and the north end of Fossgate, as well as by exhibiting to view the ancient Church of St. Crux, which had been completely surrounded. Mr. Hargrave imagines that as the House of Correction was anciently on Peasholme Green in this vicinity, Whipmawhopmagate may have been a boundary for the public whipping of delinquents. It was at one period the market for boots and shoes, but before its removal it was principally used as a basket market on Saturdays. Pavement is a well built and pleasant street, extending from Fossgate to the north end of High Ousegate. " Whence it derived the name is doubtful, but we may with some degree of certainty consider it a token of the ancient and original superiority of this street over others of the City ; for to designate one street 'The Pavement,' must naturally imply that the others were not paved at the time this name was given ; and we do not find that it has borne any other from time immemorial."* Previous to the removal of the row of houses which formed Hosier Lane, the Pavement extended only to the west end of St. Crux's Church. High Ousegate, and its continuation. Low Ousegate, lead in a direct line south from Pavement and the east end of Parliament Street to Ouse Bridge. These are now well built and respectable streets, but previous to the building of the present bridge across the Ouse in 1810, they were so narrow, and each story of the houses projecting above the lower, brought the most lofty parts so nearly in contact, that two persons on opposite sides of the way could shake hands from their upper appartments. In High Ousegate is an an tique looking house, in which Charles I. dined with the Lord Mayor, Sir Christopher Croft, November 21st, 1641, who was knighted on the occasion. Hungate, which runs from St. Saviour's Church to the river Foss, was in former times of considerable importance, being the place of residence for many of the most opulent merchants. Drake attempts to transform Hun gate into Hungrygate ; Mr. Hargrove considers it probable that as Hungate extends to the very edge of the Foss, it may have been so caUed from the word Unda, implying water ; and that, alluding to the situation, it may have been Undagate ; and thence have become Hundagate, or Hungate, a street leading to the water. Peasholme Green leads to Layerthorpe Bridge. The name of this street • Hargrove, vol, u., page 266. HISTOEY OP THE CITY OP YORK, plainly enough indicates its derivation ; Holme being an Anglo-Saxon word for a small island, or for any watery situation, Peasholme Green has been first gained from the river Foss for gardens, and next for buildings. In the centre of this green was the Church of All Saints, of which there are no remains. Crossing the river Foss at the end of Peasholme Green, we arrive in a long street caUed Layerthorpe, formerly called the Village of Layrethorpe, This ancient entrance to the Forest of Galtres bears in its name some allusion to circumstances connected with a forest ; Leer, or Layre, being in old English a hunting term for the resting place of a beast of the chase. There are now no vestiges to be seen of the ancient parish Church of Layerthorpe. Barker HUl, which conducts from Jewbury to Monkgate, was anciently termed Harlot HUl. Drake observes that "probably it had not its name for nothing. Love Lane being contiguous to it," Aldwark is a mean street running from Goodramgate to Peasholme Green, The word Aid implies old, and wark a building. When we call to mind that the Roman Imperial Palace extended from Christ Church to this street, we shaU not be surprised that our Saxon ancestors gave it this name, Stonegate, anciently caUed Staynegate, extending from St, Helen's Square to Petergate, derives its name from the great quantity of stone formerly carried through, and no doubt strewed in it, during the various erections of the Minster, Stonegate now contains the most antique houses of any prin cipal street in the City, The best specimen of them is that occupied by Mr, Sunter, supposed to be Mulberry Hall, (See page 349), An open passage or thoroughfare near the top of Stonegate is called Coffee Yard. Drake supposes that in this yard formerly stood the first coffee house established in this City.* Fishergate is the name borne by the street, once considerable, immediately without Fishergate Bar. This ancient street, which had suffered much at various times previously, was almost whoUy destroyed during the Civil Wars ¦in the reign of Charles I. Three Churches anciently stood in Fishergate. St. George's Street, now leads from Walmgate to Fishergate Bar. The north end of this street was formerly very narrow, and called Neutgate Lane ; but a few years ago several old houses were pulled down, the street was widened, and the whole street received its present appeUation, owing to its having been the street in which stood the ancient parish Church of St. George. St. George's CathoUc Church is now situated in it. Neutgate Lane was • Coffee was first introduced into England by Nathaniel Canopus, a Cretan, in 1641. The flrst coffee house in England was kept by one Jacobs, a Jew, at Oxford, in 1650. HISTOEY OF THE CITY OF YOEK, 365 probably indebted for its name to the Newt, a smaU lizard often found in low marshy places; this lane was certainly very low and wet, St. George's Street was formerly one of the principal entrances to the City, and must at some time have being very populous, for we find the sites of three Churches very near together, viz: — St. George's, St. Andrew's, and St. Peter in the Willows ; besides the Churches of All Saints and St. Helen, which stood without Fishergate Bar. Castiegate, a name whioh explains itself, leads from the Castle to the City. A wind mill once stood in Castiegate Lane. Nessgate is a continuation of Castiegate. It derives its name from the Saxon word Ness, implying a pro jecting or an exalted situation. It was formerly so very narrow that two carriages could not pass each other in it, but in 1767 aU the houses on the north east side were taken down, and rebuilt several feet further back, by which the street was rendered open and convenient. The expense of this alteration was defrayed by subscription. The three narrow streets leading from Castiegate to the river, and now generally known as the Water Lanes, were formerly caUed severally Carrgate, Thrush Lane, and Outergate. The first of these streets — formerly Carrgate — was subsequently caUed First Water Lane until the year 1851, when it was in great part rebuUt, and re ceived the name of King Street, probably because it leads to the King's Staith. Thrush Lane, afterwards known as Second Water Lane, is now caUed Water Lane ; and Outergate, afterwards Far Water Lane, has been latterly caUed Friargate. These lanes and the adjoining Friar's WaUs were the site of the old Monastery of the Franciscan Friars. Fetter Lane is a corruption of Felter Lane, the lane in which felt makers resided. Long Close Lane is so caUed from its being on the site of a field formerly caUed the Long Close, extending from Fishergate Bar to Walmgate Bar. In this field cattle used to be exposed for sale during the fairs. St. George's Field, or St. George's Close, adjoining the entrance to the New Walk, is the site of an ancient reUgious house, and the property of the citi zens, in which, by some old charters, they are authorized to hold pageants, games, dry Unen, shoot with bows and arrows, &c. So early as the year 1596 this close is mentioned as being devoted to these purposes. Skeldergate is a long street on the south side of the Ouse, running paraUel with that river. This street was formerly occupied by merchants for the purposes of trade, and, according to Drake, derived its name from the old Dutch word Kellar or Keldar, signifying a cellar or warehouse, such places being numercus here when Yprk was a mpre commercial City than at 366 HISTORY OF THE CITY OP YORK. present; but Mr. Davies is of opinion that this derivation of the word is not correct, as cellars were probably not more common in this street than else where. He (Mr. Da'vies) thinks that the name of the street originated with the public weigh or crane, which has always been in the hands of the Cor poration. In the northern counties a weigh was caUed a " skeU," and hence it is not unlikely that the street in which this public weigh for heavy water borne goods was placed, should obtain the appellation of Skeldergate. Beedham's Court, Skeldergate, was formerly caUed Hagworm's Nest. BishophiU is so named from its having been speciaUy under the jurisdiction of the Archbishop of York. Buckingham Street is the name given to a new street leading from Bishop hiU to Skeldergate. (See page 347). Barker Lane, which leads from Micklegate to Tanner Row, was formerly caUed Gregory Lane, the parish Church of St. Gregory having stood near the south-east angle of it. Tanner Row derives its appeUation from the tan-pits which formerly were situated between it and the City waUs. Toft Green, or Toft Field, from Les Toftes, or Les Kinges toftes, was so caUed from the number of houses destroyed here by WiUiam the Conqueror. The North Eastern RaUway Station occupies the sites of Toft Green, Friar's Gardens, &c. A new street, running from Micklegate to the Railway Sta tion, was named Hudson's Street, in honour of Mr. George Hudson, late chairman of the Railway directors, a former Lord Mayor of York, and some time known as the " Railway King ;" but when Mr. Hudson feU from power in the Railway world, the name of this street was changed to Railway Street. Old Baile HUl is caUed in ancient deeds Vetus Ballium, signifying a place of security. This place is doubtless the site of an ancient Castle or place of strength. Priory Street is the name given to a highway recentiy made through Tri nity Gardens, connecting Micklegate with BishophiU. This street passes through the site and grounds of the ancient Priory of the Holy Trinity, and the fine old archway, which was the entrance to the Priory, and which stood for ages at the Micklegate end of the new street, has lately been ruthlessly demolished. Blossom Street, extending from Micklegate Bar to the Mount, is a cor ruption of Bloxomgate. In the reign of Henry III. (fourteenth century) it bore the name of Bloxamgate, and in 1624, it was described as Bloxamgate, otherwise Blossomgate. Queen Street, without Micklegate Bar, was formerly known as Thief Lane. HISTORY OP THE CITY OF YORK. 367 The Mount is probably so named from its comparative elevation. It is thought by Drake to have been a Roman work, but Mr. WeUbeloved says that " it is not artificial, but natural, and is a portion of the ridge, if such it may be caUed, to which Severus' HiUs belong." In the CivU Wars it was used as an outwork to command the road leading to Tadeaster, Nunnery Lane, without Micklegate Bar, is so called from its proximity to the Nunnery. It was anciently called Beggargate Lane, from the practice of distributing alms to the poor from a side-door of St, Thomas's Hospital in this lane. Clementhorpe. — This suburb is situated without the walls towards the south-east angle of the City, and it derives its name from the patron saint of its ancient Church and nunnery. There are now no remains of these buildings. A number of smaU streets have been erected in this neighbour hood within the last few years. Neio York Street is the name recently given to the east end of Nunnery Lane, that portion of it extending from the garden waUs of the nunnery to Clementhorpe. The New Walk, on the north bank of the Ouse, extends from the end of Friar's Walls (where there is a ferry across the river), to nearly a mile in length, beneath the shade of lofty elms, which at the lower end form a double row. This pleasing promenade was formed at the expense of the City in 1783 and 1734, as far as the junction of the rivers Foss and Ouse. In 1768 the walk was continued on the other side of the Foss ; a swing bridge called the Blue Bridge connects tbe two portions. Prior to the forming of the Foss navigation the smaU rivulet which divided the walk was caUed Browney Dyke; and over it was a draw bridge, which in 1736 was removed, and a handsome stone bridge substituted, to the great ornament of the walk, but this bridge being too low for vessels to pass, it was removed, and the present wooden swing bridge erected in its stead. Part of the Church of St. Crux having been taken down, the useless materials were removed here in 1782, and with them the walk was much improved. On the further division of the walk there is an excellent weU of clear water, over which is an erection, built at the expense of the City in 1766, in imitation of a ruin. The late Dr. White, in a small tract which he published respecting the many fine springs in this neighbourhood, observes that they are generally saturated with silenites ; but that " the Lady WeU upon the New Walk " is entirely free from that property, but equaUy soft with the river water, and remarkably good. Mr. Hargrove teUs us, that in March and April, 1816, an advertise ment appeared for the sale of forty-one of the largest elm trees growing on 368 HISTORY OF THE CITY OP YORK. this walk, which excited considerable emotion in the City; whereupon a large number of the respectable citizens presented a memorial to the Lord Mayor, representing those trees to form the principal beauty of the walk, and re questing that they might remain undisturbed, and the result was that the sale was postponed, and the trees stiU continue to the credit of the City.* ^ The Esplanade, another very beautiful walk, and agreeable resort for the citizens, has been formed a few years ago along the north bank of the Ouse, from Lendal Tower to Clifton Scalp, a distance of about a mUe. The Suburbs of York were extensive at an early period, but from a variety of causes were considerably reduced in population, and in the space they occupied. " Passing over the splendid or sanguinary scenes which the his tory of York presents, in connexion with the times of the Romans, Saxons, Danes, and even the Norman Conqueror, tiU we arrive at the reign of Edward III., when a great part of his army of 60,000 men was quartered in the suburbs," says AUen, "this alone wiU suffice to corroborate the statements of their having contained many noble buildings, and having extended to several viUages, now more than a mile distant. AU those fair edifices were consumed by fire in 1644, except a few houses out of Micklegate Bar, which were preserved by the royal fort."t The ruined suburbs are however rising rapidly, for there are now many good streets, and several handsome buildings and public institutions beyond the walls of the City. Bridges. — The bridges of York are six in number, one of whioh, the prin cipal one, crosses the Ouse near the centre of the City, and the remaining five span the Foss. It is unknown at what date the original bridge across the Ouse was erected, but in 1154 the wooden bridge then standing gave way under the weight of a large multitude, who had collected to witness the entry, of Archbishop WUUam. J In 1235 Archbishop Walter de Grey granted a brief for the rebuUding of Ouse Bridge; and in 1268 there was an affray be tween the citizens and the retainers of John Comyn, a Scottish nobleman, on Ouse Bridge, which ended in the slaughter of several of the Scotchmen. The citizens would appear to have been unjust aggressors, for shortly afterwards they agreed to pay £300., and buUd a Chapel on the bridge, in which two priests should pray for the souls of the slain "for ever.'' In 1564 an im mense flood, caused by a sudden thaw, carried off two arches of Ouse Bridge, and twelve houses which stood on them were overwhelmed in the ruin, and » Hargrove's History of York, vol. u., p. 525. + AUen's Yorks., book iii., p. 312. } Bridges of stone were not buUt in England tiU after the Norman Conquest. HISTOEY OP THE CITY OF YOEK. 369 several Uves were lost. The bridge remained in this ruinous state for nearly two years, when the late venerable structure was erected on its site. The last old bridge consisted of five arches, and was termed by Camden a very noble erection. The centre arch was one of the largest in Europe, and from' its beautiful form, has been pronounced the finest in the world. It measured eighty-one feet span, and seventeen feet above the summer level ; its width on the top between the walls was eighteen feet, including the causeways, which were very narrow. In addition to the carriage way and footpaths just described, were several buildings on the west side of the bridge; the principal of which was St. WiUiam's Chapel, an interesting specimen of the early English architecture, as maybe seen by the plates of it in Halfpenny's Fragmenta Vetusta, and Cave's Antiquities of York. This Chapel, which contained several chantries, the original grants of which are stiU amongst the records of the City, is supposed to be the one already mentioned as having been originally built in 1268. After the Reformation it was converted into an Exchange for the Society of Hamburg Merchants of York, and subse quently into a Council Chamber for the Corporation, and a Record Room ; and it was finally removed on the erection of the present bridge in 1810. On the opposite side of the bridge stood the old gaol for debtors, which was built in the sixteenth century, at which time another arch was added to the bridge in order to strengthen this new erection. In consequence of the high pitch of the central arch, the ascent and descent on each side were dan gerously steep, and houses and shops encumbered it until within a few years of its removal. Amongst the contributors to this bridge was Lady Jane Hall, reUct of Robert Hall, an Alderman, who gave by wiU the sum of one hundred pounds. Her UberaUty was commemorated by the foUowing curious distich, engraved on a brass plate on the north side of the arch : — WiUiam Watson, lord mayor, An. Dom. 1556. Lady Jane HaU, lo ! here the works of faith doth shew, By giving a hundred pounds this Bridge for to renew. The precarious state of the old bridge induced the Corporation, in the autumn of 1808, to buUd a new one. Accordingly an Act of Parliament was passed in that year for the erection of the present bridge ; Mr. Peter Atkinson was chosen as the architect ; and on Monday, the 10th of December, 1810, the foundation-stone of the structure was laid with much ceremony by the Lord Mayor. On the occasion there was a grand procession of the Corporation, the Provincial Grand Lodge of Freemasons, &o. A glass vessel was placed in the stone, containing the different and latest coins of that reign, with a 3 B 370 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YORK. handsome medal, struck in commemoration of his Majesty having entered the fifty-first year of his reign. The vessel was covered by a brass plate, inscribed : — " The first stone of this bridge was laid December 10th, in the year mdooox., aud in the fifty-first year of the reign of George III., by the Et. Hon. George Peacock, Lord Mayor. Peter Atkinson, Architect. The Act of Parliament specified that £30,000. should be paid to the Com- misioners by the Justices of the Peace for the three Ridings bf the County, out of the county rates, by five equal yearly instalments of £6,000. ; the West Riding paying £2787. 10s.; the North Riding, £1,862. 10s.; and the East Riding, £1,350. ; being the usual proportions of aU their county contributions. In addition the Lord Mayor and Commonalty of the City were obUged to contribute for the same period, the annual sum of £400. There was also a bridge toU, which had been peculiarly obnoxious, and indeed in jurious to the City, which was finally abolished on the 18th of June, 1829, when there was a grand procession to celebrate the event. The new bridge was completed in March, 1820 ; and, by a singular coincidence, during the second mayoralty of Mr. TUderman Peacock, who laid the first stone. The bridge is a handsome structure, consisting of three elliptical arches, with a battlement on each side, of a plain parapet wall, breast high. The span of the centre arch is forty-three feet, and the roadway is forty feet within the battlements. The flagged footways are eaoh five and a half feet broad, leaving a carriage way of twenty feet. At each end of the bridge, on the south-east side, a handsome series of stone steps leads down to the staiths or wharfs for lading and unlading of goods, &c. That on the north side of the Ouse is caUed the King's Staith, and the Queen's Staith is on the opposite side. The word Staith was derived from a purely Saxon term signifying a bank or shoal, and is now a provincial term appUed to a wharf or landing place. The King's Staith was mentioned in the days of Richard H., in connection with the fresh water fishers. Foss Bridge, at the end of Fossgate, dividing that street from Walmgate, was erected in 1811, on the site of a very ancient stone bridge of three arches, built in the reign of Henry IV. It appears by an old Charter that Richard TL. granted a Ucense to the Mayor and Commonalty of York, to pur chase lands of the yeariy value of £100., for the support of the bridges of Ouse and Foss ; but the latter having been rebuilt, the Mayor and citizens were empowered, in the fourth of Henry IV. (1403), to coUect a toU upon it during five successive years, to defray the expenses incurred. A Chapel was erected HISTORY OF THE CITY OP YORK. 371 on the north side of the bridge, dedicated to St. Anne, though it was some times called the Chapel of St. Agn^s. It was licensed on the 14th of November, 1424, for the celebration of divine service. Several of the piles which supported this Chapel, were drawn up so late as the year 1734. In Camden's time Foss Bridge was so crowded with houses as to render it difficult for a stranger to know when he was passing it — the line of street extending completely over it. The houses were however soon after taken down, though we find that in 1728 several fish stalls were again erected on the south side, a market for salt water fish being then held there every Wednesday and Friday. The present bridge is a neat structure, consisting of one elliptical arch, with a balustrade. The foundation stone was laid on the 4th of June, 1811 ; and a brass plate was inserted in the stone, bearing the following inscription : — " The first stone of this bridge was laid by the Eight Hon. Lawrence Dundas,* Lord Mayor, on the 4th of June, mdoocxi., in the fifty-first year of the reign of George III., and on tbe day on which his Majesty completed the seventy-third year of his age. Peter Atkinson, Architect." Castle Mills Bridge, over the Foss, is so called from its proximity to certain miUs anciently belonging to the Castie. There was a bridge here at a very early period, and as it was in some sort an outwork of the Castle, was well defended. The roadway was widened and the bridge much improved a few years ago. Layerthorpe Bridge, which connects Peaseholme Green and Layerthorpe, was formerly remarkable for its extreme narrowness, and for the Postern that guarded it at one end. The present structure was erected in 1829. Monk Bridge, which is a modern erection, forms an approach to York from Malton, Scarborough, &c. The span of its arch is wide enough to admit of the free passage of vessels of seventy tons burden. The Scarborough Railway Bridge, a neat cast iron structure, erected in 1845, crosses the Ouse a little above Marygate, and affords communication for foot passengers between the two lines of rails. The Improvements and Alterations of late years have almost changed the appearance of the City. Streets have been widened, new streets formed, and many handsome buildings erected. At the Assizes of 1852, Lord Chief Justice CampbeU, in his charge to the City Grand Jury, complimented the inhabitants on the great improvements that had taken place in York within * Afterwards Earl of ZeUand, 372 HISTORY OF THE CITY OF YOEK, the last few years, and especially noticed the beautiful grounds attached tp the Museum, and which he thought were not surpassed by any on the con tinent of Europe. Mortality. — ^In former years York does not appear to have been so healthy a place of residence as many others, owing to defective drainage, and to the narrowness and irregularity of the street As we have shown in the pre ceding pages, York was often grievously devastated by epidemics during the middle ages. In 1349 the "black death;" and in the years 1390, 1550, and 1604, grievous plagues or pestilences numbered their victims by thou sands. Mr. Davies tells us, in his work on the Municipal Records of tlie City of York, that during the pestUence of 1550, it was ordered by the Cor poration that all infected houses should have a red cross on their doors, and that all persons going abroad from such houses should carry a white rod. But the Asiatic Cholera appears to have been less fatal here than in many other places. It made its first appearance in Beedham's Court Skeldergate — remarkable for being the place in which the plague first broke out which devastated the City in 1604 — on Sunday, the 3rd of June, 1832, and by the S2nd of October the disease had entirely disappeared. In the beginning of July the malady had attained its height, when forty persons died in one week. The total number of cases in York was 450, and the total of deaths was 185. The maUgnity of the disease was, no doubt, considerably neutra lized by the admirable sanitary arrangements of the Board of Health and the unwearied exertions of the medical profession of York : — upwards of £1,300., raised by subscription, having been expended by the board, in bread and beef for the relief of the poor. In 1849 the visitation was less severe, and in 1864 there was not more than one or two real cases (if any) of Cholera in York. Dr. Laycock, in his Report to the Commissioners for enquiring into the sanitary condition of large towns, in 1854, says that "the average or mean age of all dying in York is six years and a half less than those dying in the country, and the deaths from epidemics are more numerous." The average rate of mortality appears to be the greatest in the low lying districts of the City. The popu lation of York is now upwards of 36,000, and the average number of deaths in York is about 1,200, per annum. Sanitary Measures. — The sanitary eondition of York has undergone con siderable improvement of late years, and a system of thorough drainage is now being carried out, under the direction of the Local Board of Health. One main sewer has lately been made through the heart of the City ; be ginning at Monk Bar, and passing through Goodramgate, Church Street, St. HISTOEY OP THE CITY OF YOEK. 373 Sampson's Square, Feasegate, and Market Street, and crossing Coney Street, it enters the Ouse at Waterloo Place. This great sewer varies in depth from fifteen to thirty feet. Several sewers of a similar character are being made in other parts of the City. They are all egg-shaped, and built with radiating bricks, made expressly for this work. This extensive drainage wiU cost the City several thousand pounds, but it will be a great boon to generations yet unborn. The Drainage of the Foss, which has recently been effected, is another ex ceUent sanitary measure. Hitherto this river has been a great elongated cess-pool for a great part of the City, and its immediate neighbourhood was in consequence rendered very unwholesome. In 1853 the river was pur chased for £4,000. by the Corporation, for the purpose of making sewers for taking the drainage of that part of the City which flowed into it, and con veying it into the Ouse. An Act of Parliament was obtained for this purpose, as well as for empowering the Corporation to purchase and drain the marshy land on the banks of the river, called the Foss Islands. According to the terms of the Act, the river Foss must be kept open, so that its navigation wiU not be interrupted. Several plans for the drainage of the river were submitted, examined, and rejected by the Corporation, tUl at length at the meeting of that body on the 12th of February, 1855, they adopted the recommendation of Mr. Wicksteed, an eminent surveyor, that a line of intercepting sewers be constructed on the land for the drainage of the Foss district, commencing at the extreme boundary of the City near the Union Workhouse, passing Monk and Layerthorpe bridges to the Foss- Island, thence across Walmgate and George Street, to Fishergate, and thence to the Blue bridge on the New Walk, the sewage matter to be conveyed into the centre of the river Ouse, by means of an iron pipe ; also, to construct a sewer, commencing in Fossgate, crossing the river Foss, and proceeding to St. George's Terrace, where it joins the main sewer above aUuded to. The pipe, or iron culvert is four feet six inches inside, in diameter, and weighs thirty tons. It is bolted together, and the bottom of it is thirteen feet below the summer level of the water in the Ouse, so that vessels can saU clear of it, and a buoy is fixed above it. The cost of the drainage of the Foss Islands and the intercepting sewers, was about £11,000. These plans, which have just been carried out, have been found to answer perfectly, and to have greatly improved the sanitary state of the City. The works connected with these important improvements commenced on Monday, the 28th of May, 1865 ; the " first sod" being turned on that day by the Lord Mayor. 374 HISTOEY OF THE CITY OP YORK. Another great sanitary measure lately carried into effect is the abolition of intramural interment in the City. AU the burial grounds and vaults, in connection with the Churches and Chapels in York, have been closed,* except the new part of the Church yard of St. Lawrence, which was allowed to con tinue as a burial place, in consequence of its having been but lately added. It is however ordered that this new ground " be properly drained, and no more than one body is to be buried in each grave, nor with a covering of less than four and a half feet of earth, measuring from the upper surface of the coffin to the level of the ground." This great change has been made by order of the Secretary of State, in virtue of the powers given to him by a recent Act of Parliament. The Order in Council directs that from and after the 23rd of December, 1854, "no new burial ground shaU be opened in the City of York, or within two mUes of its boundary, without the previous approval of one of her Majesty's principal Secretaries of State ; and that burials in the said City be discontinued " from the above date, with the modifications already stated. The greatest necessity appears to have existed in York for the closing of the burial grounds. Dr. Laycock, a very competent judge in the matter, plainly shews, in his Report to the Health of Towns' Commissioners, the evil consequences of the practice of intramural burial in the City. " The state of the parochial burying grounds of York," he says, " must have a con siderable and noxious infiuence on the atmosphere within the Churches, and on that of the City generally, and on the water. The greater number of these grounds are of extreme antiquity, and must have been buried over very often. In fact, many of them are raised above the street level from the accu mulated remains of generations. The analysis of the water from wells near St Cuthbert's and St. Sampson's Church yards, shows that the weUs are tainted by the drainage from these burying grounds, and there can be no doubt that the air is also poUuted, not only by the direct emanations, but as well from the drainage from the bodies in the public sewers." • The burial place of the Society of Friends was allowed to remain open untU the 1st of August 1855. HISTORY OF THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YORK. 375 Clj^e %xt\itixattBt af §^axh. The Province of York comprises the Bishoprics of Carlisle, Chester, Dur ham, Sodor and Man, Ripon, and Manchester. It formerly included the whole of Scotland, but Pope Sixtus IV., at the end of. the fifteenth century, granted the Primacy of Scotland to the Bishop of St. Andrews. The County of York is in the Province of York, and until a few years ago it was partly in the Diocese of Chester, and partly in that of York. The former part con sisted of the Deaneries of Richmond, Catterick, and Boroughbridge, with part of Kirby Lonsdale, aU in the Archdeaconry of Richmond ; and the latter of the Deaneries of Cleveland, Ryedale, Bulmer, Ripon, and Ripon with Masham (a pecuUar jurisdiction), aU in the Archdeaconry of Cleveland; aU the Deaneries of Dickering, Buckrose, HarthiU and Hull, and Holderness, aU in the Archdeaconry of the East Riding; and the Deaneries of Craven, York, the Ainsty, York City, Pontefract, and Doncaster, all in the Arch deaconry of York, or West Riding. By order in Council, of date 5th of October, 1836, those parts of the County previously in the Diocese of Chester, together with the Deaneries of Ripon, Ripon with Masham, Craven, and parts of York, the Ainsty, and of Pontefract, have, with the consent of the Archbishop of York and the Bishop of Chester, been transferred from their respective Dioceses, in order to form the new Diocese of Ripon ; so that the Diocese of York now extends over the County of York, except those parts that have been included in the Diocese of Ripon. Under the Archbishop, ecclesiastical matters are conducted by Archdeacons, an officer first introduced into this Diocese by Thomas the Norman, in 1070. Before the Conquest the Saxon prelates sat in the Courts for the administra tion of justice with the Earls and Sheriffs ; but the Conqueror separated the ecclesiastical from the civil jurisdiction, by enacting "that no Bishop or Archdeacon should in future hold ecclesiastical pleas in the Hundred Court, nor suffer any cause of a spiritual nature to come under the cognizance of secular persons." Dr. Heylin tells us that the Archbishopric of York is the most ancient metropolitan See in England, having been so constituted in the reign of King Lucius, in the year 180, but this is a matter of great uncer tainty, as will be seen by our remarks on the subject of the original intro duction of Christianity into Britain, at page 74 of this volume. It is, however, certain that Christianity was not practised, if even known in the north of England in the beginning of the seventh century. When Edwin, 376 HISTORY OP THE ARCHDIOCESE OF YOEK. the Saxon King of Northumbria, embraced the Christian religion, and in some measure introduced it into the northern parts of Britain, he was bap tised by Paulinus at York, in a smaU wooden oratory erected for the occasion, there being no place of Christian worship in this City at that time. This Monarch afterwards established, or according to some, re-established the Archbishopric, and Paulinus was made Archbishop. The Archbishop ot-York is Primate and MetropoUtan of England, and to him attaches the honour of crowning the Queens of England, and of preaching the coronation sermon. Warm and repeated contentions existed for many centuries for ecclesiastical supremacy between the Archbishops of York and Canterbury. In Sir Francis Palgrave's " Truths and Fictions of the Middle Ages — The Merchant and the Friar," there is a curious account of the predicaments in which my Lord of Canterbury used to place my Lord of York, when the latter went to London; and of the re taliation made by my Lord of York, when his spiritual brother came into the north. The dispute on this point was however settied in the reign of Edward HI., by the Archbishop of Canterbury being styled " Primate of AU England;" and the Archbishop of York, "Primate of England," which, though it seems "a distinction without a difference," really gave the su premacy to his Grace of Canterbury. The Archbishop of York, who is also Lord High Almoner to the Queen, takes precedency of all Dukes who are not of the blood royal, and of all the chief officers of state, the Lord High Chancellor alone excepted. The total number of benefices returned in the Diocese of York, in 1838 was 690 ; the incumbents in 276 of which were non-resident. According to the Clergyman's Almanack the present number of benefices in the Diocese is 878, of which number 344 have glebe houses. The yearly tenths of the Archbishopric of York, as returned in the Survey made by the Commissioners appointed by the Crown in the reign of Henry VTTL, on the eve of the Reformation, were valued at £161. ; and the value of the Uving, as stated in the King's Books of the same date, was £1,610. The average gross yearly income of the Archiepiscopal See in 1831, was £13,798.; net yearly income, £12,629.* By order in Council, of date 21st * The foUowing is the substance of the schemes and decrees to which the Ecclesias tical Commisioners of England obtained the sanction of the King in 1836 : — That all parishes which are locally situated in one diocese, and under the jurisdiction of another, be made subject to that See withiu which they are locally situated; that certain new dioceses should be created, and that such appointment or exchange of ecclesiastical pa tronage should be made among the Archbishops and Bishops, so as to leave an average HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. 377 of June, 1837, the income of the future Archbishops of York is limited to £10,000. per annum. The ecclesiastical establishment in connection with the Cathedral consists of an Archbishop, Dean, ChanceUor, Precentor, Sub-Dean, Succentor, three Archdeacons, four Canons Residentiary, twenty-four Prebendaries or non resident Canons, a ChanceUor of the Diocese, a Sub-Chanter, four Vicars Choral, seven Lay Clerks, six Choristers, an Organist and other officers. The Deanery of York was instituted by Archbishop Thomas, in 1090. The Dean, who is next to the Archbishop in rank, is elected by the Chapter, invested with a gold ring, and instaUed by the Precentor. The next in dignity is the Precentor, or Chanter, an office which also was founded in 1090. The duty of this dignitary is to superintend the choir, and install every person presented to any dignity in the Church. The next in order is the Chancellor of the Church. He has the custody ol the seal of citations, collates to grammar schools, &c. His office was founded a short time before^ the Deanery. The CoUege of the Vicars-Choral was founded by Archbishop Walter de Grey, in 1252, and at present consists of five members, who per form the musical part of the daily services of the choir. The Chapter, which is composed of the Dean, and four Residentiary Canons under the title of the " Dean and Chapter of York," is the ruling body of the Cathedral establishment. The Archbishop has the power of holding visi tations of their affairs. The Archbishop has the patronage of the Archdea conries, the ChanceUorships, Precentorships, the Non-Residentiary Canonries, and fifty-three Benefices. The Dean has the patronage of eleven Benefices. The Dean and Chapter have the patronage of the Residentiary and Minor Canons, with twenty-three Benefices, and possess a revenue of £1,650., di vided into six shares, of which one is reserved for minor salaries. The Residentiaries must be chosen out of the Prebendaries. At the Reformation the yearly tenths of the Deanery were valued at £30. 17s. 0|d. and the Living, which is in the gift of the Crown,at £307. 10s. 7id. The Deanery has the Rectories of Pocklington, Pickering, ahd Kilham, of yearly income of ^615,000. to the Archbishop of Canterbury ; sElOjOOO. to the Archbishop of York; ^10,000. to the Bishop of London; ^£8,000. to the Bishop'of Durham; ^£7,000. to the Bishop of Winchester ; ^65,000. to the Bishops of Ely, Worcester, and Bath and Wells, respectively; ^£5,200. to the Bishop of St. Asaph and Bangor; and that out of the funds arising in the said dioceses, over and above the said incomes, the Commis sioners should grant such stipends to the other Bishops, as should make their average annual incomes not less than i£4,000,, nor more than s65,000. 3 c 378 HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. which the Dean is patron and ordinary.* He likewise presents to Thornton, Ebberston, EUerburne, Barnby Moor, and Hayton Vicarages. The Sub-Chanter and four Minor Canons form a corporate body, with a revenue of £569., which is equally divided amongst them. The Treasurer- ship, erected in the year 1090, was dissolved and made a lay fee by King Edward VL, as were also the prebends of Wilton and Newthorpe, annexed thereto. It is understood that about £3,000. is applicable yearly to the repairs of the Cathedral and maintenance of its services. The Arms qf York Cathedral were anciently azure, a staff in pale or, sur mounted by "a paU argent fringed as the second, charged with five crosses pattee fitched sable, in chief another such a cross or. These arms are im paled in some of the windows of the Church, with the arms of Archbishops Bowett, Rotheram, and Savage ; but they have since been changed for this bearing. Gules, two keys in saltire argent, in chief a crown imperial or, with the mitre. The crown was added to the shield on account of York having once been an imperial City, Origin of Tithes. — Festus informs us that the ancients offered to their gods the tithes of all things, and this seems to have been the means by which religion was supported by all nations of antiquity. Parishes are supposed to have been first formed by Archbishop Honorius, who flourished about 636,f as a necessary appropriation of ecclesiastical duties to certain responsible pastors, and to prevent those irregularities which might and did arise from the interference that frequently occurred by the intrusive visits of strangers on the scene of other men's labours, to the manifest injury of religion. In 673, Theodore, Archbishop of Canterbury, convened a Synod, at which, amongst other regulations, this was agreed on : — Nullus Episcoporum alterius invadat. In the first ages of Christianity, every man was at liberty to con tribute his tithes to what parish or Church soever he pleased ;] but this privilege served as an existing means whereby any pique against the priest might be gratified by the alienation of his income. This inconvenience therefore was obviated ; first, by the censures of the CouncU of Calcuith ; then by the famous charter of Ethelfwulf ; and most effectuaUy by the laws of Edgar, which provided, that all tithes should be paid in the parish where they arise. About the year 690, Ina, King of the West Saxons, made a code * " By an ancient custom of this Church, the Dean of it was obliged for ever to feed or reUeve, at bis Deanery, ten poor people daily. — This was for the soul of good Queen Maud ; and for which purpose he had the Churches of KUham, Pickering, and Pock lington, annexed to his Deanery," — Drake. + Stow Chron,, p. 77. { Blaokstone's Comment, vol. i., p. 112. history of the archdiocese op YOEK. 879 of laws, the fourth section of which is to the following purport, " The first fruits of seeds or Church due, arising from the product of corn, &c., are to be paid at the feast of St. Martin ; and let him that fails in the payment forfeit forty shillings," as Lambeth reads it ; or, according to Sir Henry Spelman, sixty shiUings ; and besides, pay the dues twelve times over. In the sixty- second section, " Church dues are to be paid where the persons owing them dweU in the midst of winter." These laws appear to be the first on record respecting such maintenance for the Church, and on this account are men tioned here. The gifts and oblations which the primitive Christians, in their devotedness and zeal for religion, made as acts of piety, were transformed by usage and custom, into a right, and are now advanced into the firmer title of ordinance. Hence modern lawyers say, that tithes are due of common right, as having existed since the first establishment of Churches, and made regular from the division of parochial limits. At the first establishment of parochial clergy the tithes of the parish were distributed in a four-fold division ; one for the use of the Bishop ; another for maintaining the fabric of the Church; a third for the poor; and the fourth to provide for the incumbents. When the Sees of the Bishops became otherwise amply endowed, they were prohibited from demanding their usual share of these tithes, and the division was in three parts only. In 1828, by Act of Parliament, certain Tithe Commissioners were appointed to commute the tithes of England and Wales for a rent charge on the land, to vary ac cording to the price of corn. From a ParUamentary Return we learn that the tithes connected and apportioned from December, 1847, to December, 1855, amounted to £4,050,227. 10s. ; of whioh sum £678,845. was payable to clerical appropriators and lessees; £2,410,506. to parochial incumbents; £766,427. to lay impropriators; and £195,948. to schools, colleges, &c. Oeigin op Vicarages. — In early times aU our parish churches were Rec tories. Vicarages and Perpetual Curacies, which arose out of appropriations, are of subsequent date. Lords of Manors, or other wealthy individuals, erected parish Churches, and gave or appropriated them to religious houses as a source of income. Such Churches were therefore Donatives, and the monks coUated themselves to the cures. Even Nunneries had appropriations, and the Superioresses obtained licenses to officiate by substitutes or Vicars. As early as the year 1108, Vicars or Curates were employed by the Rectors of Churches ; and very soon afterwards came Hectares sine cura animarum parochianorum ; or Rectors without cure or care of souls. In 1222 Arch bishop Langton directed by a Canon, that every extensive parish should have two or three priests in it ; and by this law the Monasteries were obUged to 380 HISTOEY OP THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. appoint Vicars or suistitutes, to officiate regularly in the Churches which had been given to them, in order that the lower classes of the people might have religious instruction. After this period a large number of Vicarages were endowed by property taken from the Rectories. In 1391 (fifteenth of Rich ard II.) it was enacted, that in all appropriations of Churches the diocesan Bishop should ordain, in proportion to the value of the Church, a competent sum to be distributed among the poor parishioners annuaUy, " in aid of their living and sustenance for ever," and that the Vicarage should be weU and sufficiently endowed. At the Dissolution of religious houses in the reign of Henry VIIL, when the tithes and lands of these institutions were granted or sold on easy terms to the King's friends and favourites, who thereby became what is termed lay impropriators, many of the Vicarages were left with very insufficient endowments ; and at the present day there are many poor Vicar ages and Perpetual Curacies, whilst immense sums, arising from tithes, lands, &c., in these parishes, are appropriated to laymen, descendants of those to whom Henry VIII. granted or sold them. Rectories are those parishes or livings which have not been appropriated, but in which all the tithes or other emoluments belong to the Incumbent. Queen Anne's Bounty. — From a very early period every Bishop and clergyman has been required to pay the amount of his first yearns incumbency into a fund, caUed from thence First Fruits, and every succeeding year as long as he is in possession of the living, he has been required to pay one- tenth part or his income into a fund, hence called The Tenths. In 1290, a valuation for this purpose was made of all the ecclesiastical livings in England ; and the book containing that record is preserved in the' Remembrancer's office, under the titie of " Valor of Pope Nicholas IV." A.t the time of the Reformation there was a law passed, that the first fruits and tenths should be appUed to the use of the State, and that any Bishop or clergyman neg lecting to pay those imposts into the public treasury, should be declared an intruder into his Uving, and should forfeit double the amount ; and, in order to ascertain the fuU amount, an accurate and fuU valuation was made of aU the ecclesiastical livings in England and Wales. Except during a short period in the reign of PhiUp and Mary, the first fruits and tenths continued to be paid into the public exchequer, tiU the reign of Queen Anne, when that Monarch, deploring the wretched condition of many of the poor clergy, owing to the insufficiency of their livings, determined that the first fruits and tenths of the livings of all the Bishops and clergy should be paid into a fund, to be caUed Queen Anne's Bounty, and that the amount should be appropriated to the augmentation of the Uvings of the poor clergy. As there was no fresh HISTOE'Y OF THE AECHDIOCESE OF YORK. 381 valuation instituted in the time of Queen Anne, the first fruits and tenths continue to be paid according to that made by Henry VIII. in 1535, and whioh was registered in what is called the King's Books (Liber Regis), to which, as well as to the augmentation from Queen Anne's Bounty, we shall frequentiy refer in the accounts of Church livings in this history. That this payment might not operate oppressively, the first year's income was to be paid by four annual instalments, and aU livings of small value were entirely exempt, and hence called Discharged limngs. The increase which has taken place in the value of Church livings since 1536 is enormous. The receipts by the Governors of Queen Anne's Bounty in the year 1855, amounted to £229,939., of which, £14,192. accrued from first fruits and tenths; £26,989. from benefactions; £23,642. from sale of stock; £74,822. from income derived from capital; and £28,214. from the sale of land and buUdings. The payments for the same year amounted to £230,559., of which, £72,182. was paid to the clergy, and the remainder was expended in the purchase of land and buildings, and in the erection of residence houses, and glebe houses. Sanctuaries. — The privilege of Sanctuary was introduced into the Chris tian Church about the time of Constantine. It had its origin in the laws of Moses, who, at the divine command, appointed Six Cities of Refuge, as a protection to the involuntary homicide against the summary vengeance of his incensed pursuers. — Numb. c. 35. It was used also in Pagan times. Some particular trees in the Druidical grove were Sanctuaries ; and the altars of idolatry were decorated with horns, which were always reputed a sanctuary for crime ; so that even murderers, fleeing for safety to the horns of the altar, esteemed themselves perfectiy secure from the danger of apprehension until their crimes were legaUy investigated. This privilege having become quite a nuisance, through the number of the vilest malefactors, who remained in the temples of the gods with impunity, and set at defiance the operation of the laws ; Tiberius Caesar abolished the protection afforded by these Sanc tuaries, and confined it to the two Temples of Juno and Esculapius. By the laws of the Saxon King Ina, a.d. 693, any person guilty of a capital crime, taking refuge in a Church, his Ufe was spared, on condition that he made recompence to the friends of the deceased, according to justice and equity; and if one who had merely incurred the punishment of stripes took such refuge, his punishment was suspended. York Cathedral was one of the Churches that possessed the great privUege of Sanctuary from a very early period — probably from the time of the Saxon King Athelstan, who granted this privilege to the Church of Beverley, and 382 HISTORY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. who visited York and founded there the Hospital of St. Leonard in the same year, a.d. 936. Many of the Churches possessed the privUege of Sanctuary, and when kept under proper restraint was a pubUc benefit and moderated the rigour of the common law. It aUowed time for criminals to make resti tution, and for the falsely accused to prove their innocence, whUst without this respite they might have suffered immediate punishment or death. The Leuga, or privileged circuit, was comprehended within the circumference of a circle, of which the Church was the centre, and its limits were marked by stone crosses on the principal roads leading to each of these " Cities of Re fuge.*" The refugee, or grithrnan, generaUy arrived at the entrance to the Church under the cloak of night and was admitted by the porter of the Church or Monastery into the porch or GalUee.\ In the morning a Chapter was assembled to hear and record the details of the case. The Sanctuary oath was then administered, and having paid the customary fee for registering the circumstances of his crime, he was seated in the Fridstol, and permitted to remain within the precincts until he was favoured with an opportunity of compromising with his adversary ; or in case of murder, with the surviving relations and friends of the unhappy sufferer, " If a malefactor, flying for refuge, was taken or apprehended within the crosses, the party that took or had hold of them there did forfeit two hundreth;l if he took him within the town he forfeited /owr hundreth; if within the walls of the churchyard, then six hundreth ; if within the Church, then twelve hundreth ; if within the doors of the quire, then eighteenth hundreth ; besides penance as in case of sacrUege ; but if he presumed to take him out of the stone chair near the altar, called Fridstol, or from among the holy relics behind the altar, the offence was not * " The King's peace extended three mUa, three furlong, three aecera bredse, nine fote, nine scefta munda, nine bere corna," — ^WUk. Leg. Ang. Sax., p. 63. The remains of three of these Sanctuary crosses may yet be seen in the neighbourhood of Beverley. + Some of our Cathedrals and great Churches possess an appendage called the Galilee, or Galilee porch, probably considered as a part of the edifice less sacred than the rest, where preliminaries to admission, as in baptism, the churching of women, &c., were performed ; and where great sinners doing pubUc penance were exposed before being received back into commnnion with the Church. In conventual Churches this appendage was a smaU gaUery or balcony open towards the nave of the Church, from which visitors, or the family of the Abbot, with whose residence it communicated, might view processions. Here also the female relatives of the monks were permitted to have in terviews with them. From this last circumstance. Dr. Milner explains the origin and derivation of the appeUation. On a woman applying for leave to see a monk, her re lation, she was answered in the words of Scripture, " he goeth before you into GalUee, there you shaU see him." — ^Britten's Archit Ant, vol. v., Appendix xUi. } Mr. Staveley, on the authority of Richard, Prior of Hagulstad, says that the hun dredth contained eight pamids. HISTORY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEK. 383 redeemable with any sum ; but was then become sine emendatione boteles, and nothing but the utmost severity of the offended Church was to be expected, by a dreadful excommunication, besides what the secular power would impose for the presumptuous misdemeanor."* The Fridstol, that is, freed stool, was a chair of refuge and safety from the immediate infliction of punishment for any crime whatsoever.f By a statute enacted in the ninth of Edward II. (1316), it was provided that " so long as the criminals be in the Church, they shall be supplied with the necessaries of life." Whilst the nature and circmstances of his crime were being investigated, the Church continued its protection, and the culprit remained in perfect safety within the limits of the Sanctuary ; and in aU cases the life of the criminal was safe, for having taken the oath of fealty to the head of the religious establishment, and being placed in the chair of peace, he could compel his adversary to accept of a pecuniary compensation. The places of Sanctuary in process of time became much abused, and diverted from their original purpose ; and in the reign of Henry VHI. they were entirely abolished. A Chronological List of the Archbishops qf York, from the establishment of the See in the year 625, to the present time : — ANGLO-SAXON DYNASTY. No. ARCHBISHOPS. Consecrated. Died or Translated. Contemporaneous Kings. 1 St. Paulinus 625666 669678686 691 705718 731 767780 797 631 669678685698 705718731766781 790 832 Edwin.Oswyn. Alcfrid.Egfrid. Alcfrid.Alcfrid. Osred. Osric.Coelwulph. Ethelwuld. Edelrid. Aired. 2 See vacant 34 years. Ceadda, or Chad St. WUfrid .a 4. Bosa .1 =3 5 St. Wilfrid (restored) . . Bosa (restored) St. John of Beverley . . Wilfrid 11 7 Egbert CO R a" 9 H 10 Eanbauld IL. • Pegge, in Archseol., vol. viu., p. 44. + The Fridstol, or chair of peace, occurs in the laws of Edgar, oa. 16. There were formerly several of them in the northern parts of Britain ; one of them occurs in the charter of immunities renewed by King Henry VII. to St Peter's, York, where it is in terpreted cathedra quietudinis vel pads. — -WUk. Leg. Anglo-Sax. Gloss., p. 403. The fridstol was generaUy a stone chair or seat near the high altar, as an emblem of pro tection to the refugee. — ^Dugdale's Monast., vol. ii., p. 128. The ancient fridstol of Beverley Sanctuai-y is still preserved in the Minster of that place. 384 HISTOEY OP THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. No. ARCHBISHOPS. Consecrated. Died or Translated. Contemporaneous Kings. 1] 833832854895 931941 955971974 993 1003 10331050 . 1061 GLO-NOEMA 1070 110011091119 114411481153 CON LINE ( 1154 1191 12151256 1258 12651279 12861296129913051317 LANCASTRL 13431354137413891397130814051426 832854895 920 940955 971971 993 1002 1033 1050 1060 1069 N DYNASTY. 1100 110811141139114711531154 RESTOEED). 1181 1212 12551258 1264 12791285 12961299 130313151340 AN LINE. 1352137313881396139814051423 1451 Egbert. Egberf^-Ethelwulf.Ethelbald Alfred 19, 1.'^ WUfere 14 Ethelbald Alfred 15 16 17 OscyteU Edwy— Edgar. Edgar. Edward the Martyr. Ethelred II. Ethelred IL— Sweyn. Canute Ha:rold I Edw 18 Athelwald 19 Oswald 2021 Adulfe Wulstan II 22 Alfric Puttoc 23 TTinpiiiR '. . . . the Confessor. Edward the Confessor 24 Aldred Edward the Confessor 25 AN Thomas Harold H.— Wilhn. I. WUliam I. and II. 26 Gerard Henry I. Henry I. Henry — Stephen. Stephen.Stephen. Stephen. Henry H. 27 Thomas II 98 Thurstan 29 St. WilUam (deprived in 1147) 30 31 Henry Murdac St. William (restored) . . sa: 82 33348536373839 40 414343 444546474849 See vacant 10 years. Geoffry Plantagenet See vacant 4 years. Walter de Grey Sewal de Bovil Godfrey de Keynton Walter Gififard WilUam Wickwane John le Eomayne Henry de Newark ...... Thomas de Corbrigge . . WUliam de Greufeld WiUiam de Melton WiUiam de la Zouche . . John de Thoresby Alexander NevUe Thomas ArundeU Eobert Waldby Richard Soroope Henry Bowet Henry H. Henry II. — ^Rioh. I. — John John — Henry HI. Henry III. Henry IH. Henry IH.— Edward I. Edward I. Edward I. Edward I. Edward I. Edward I. and II. Edward II. and IH. Edward III. Edward III. Edward IH.— Richard II. Eichard II. Eichard II. Eichard H.— Henry IV. Henry IV. and V. Henry V. and YI. 50 John Kempe . ; , HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEK. HOUSE OF YORK. 385 No. AECHBISHOPS. Consecrated. Died or Translated. Contemporaneous Kings. 5152 5354 WiUiam Boothe George NeviUe Lawrence Boothe Thomas Scot de Eother- ham 1453146514761480 1464 147614801500 Henry VL— Edward IV. Edward IV. Edward IV. Edward IV. &V.— Richd. III.— Henry VII. HOUSE OF TUDOR. Thomas Savage Christopher Baynbrigge Cardinal Thomas Wolsey Edward Lee Robert Holgate Nicholas Heath Protestant Archbishops. Thomas Young Edmund Grindall Edwin Sandys John Piers Matthew Hutton 1501 1507 Henry VII. 1508 1514 Henry VII. and VIH. 1514 1530 Henry VIII. 1531 1544 Henry VIII. 1544 1553 Henry VIIL— Edw. VI Mary. 1555 1558 Mary — Elizabeth. 1560 1568 Elizabeth. 1570 1576 EUzabeth. 1577 1588 Elizabeth. 1588 1594 Elizabeth. 1594 1606 Elizabeth — James I. HOUSE OF STUART. Tobias Matthew George Montaigne Samuel Harsnett Eichard NeiU 1606 162816291633 164316601664 16831688 1691 OUSE OF Bl 1714 17241743174717571761 177718081847 16281698 16311640165016641683 1686 1691 1713 lUNSWICK. 1794 174317471757 17611776 18071847 The present Archbishop James I. — Charles I. Charles I. Charles I. Charles I. Charles I. The Commonwealth. Charles II. Charles II. John WiUiams See vacant 10 years. Accepted Frewen Eichard Sterne Thomas Lamplugh WiUiam III. William TTT An tip H Sir WiUiam Dawes Lancelot Blackburn .... Thomas Herring Matthew Hutton John Gilbert George I. George I. and IT. George IL George II. George II. and TTT George HI. George III. George III. & IV.— Wm IV.— Victoria. Victoria. Eobert Hay Dmmmond WUUam Markham .... Edward V. V. Harcourt Thomas Musgrave .... 3 D 386 HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. A list of the Deans qf York, with the year of their respective creation : Appfflnted. Died or Eemoved. Hugo , William de St. Barbara Eobert de Gant Eobert BotevUlin Hubert Walter Henry Marshall Simon de ApuUa Hamo Eoger de Insula Geoffry de Norwyoh Fulk Bassett WilUam Walter de Kyrkham Sewal de BovU Godfrey de Ludham (or Keyn ton) Eoger de Holderness William de Langueton Eobert de Scardeburgh Henry de Newark WUliam de Hamelton* Eeginald de Gote, Cardinalis . . WilUam de Pykering Eobert de Pykerings, t.C.L. . . WUliam de Colby WUUam de la Zouch Philip de Weston Tailerand, Bp. of Albanen . . . . John Anglicus, Cardinalis Adam Easton, Cardinalis Edmd. de Strafford, LL.D. . . Eoger Walden Eichard Clifford, Bac. Leg. . . Thomas Langley-i- John Prophete Thomas Polton WUUam Grey, L.L.D , Eobert Gilbert, S.T.P WUliam Felter, Deo. Dr. Eichard Andrews, L.L.D Eobert Bothe, L.L.D Christopher Urswyk, Dec. Dr. WiUiam SheflSeld, Dec. Dr. . . Geoffrey Blythe, S.T.B Christ. Baynbrigge, L.L.D. . . James Harrington Temp.WUl.II. Temp. K. Step. 1144 118611891191121412—123513401244124- 135- 1256 1268126-12791390 1398 130913101313 13331333 1347 135-1366 13811385 139- 139814011407 1416142114261437 1454 147714881494149615031507 Bishop of Durham 1142 Died 1186 Bishop of Salisbury 1 189 Bishop of Exeter 1191 Bishop of Exeter 1314 Bishop of London 1244 Archbishop of York 1356 Archbishop of York 1258 Died 1279 Died 1290 Archbishop 1296 Died 1314 Died 1310 Died 1312 Archbishop 1340 Died Deprived Deprived Archbishop of Canterbury 1398 Bishop of Worcester 1401 Bishop of Durham 1406 Died Bishop of London 1426 Bishop of London 1437 Died Eesigned 1477 Died Eesigned 1494 Died Bisbop of Lichfield 1503 I Bishop of Durham 1507 I Archbishop of York .... 1508 Died 1512 * Jan. 16, 1305, 33nd Edw. I., this WilUam de Hamelton bad the great seal delivered to him as Lord Chancellor of England. — Torre, p. B55. ^ In the year 1405 he was constituted Lord High Chancellor of England.— Drake, p. 664. HISTOEY OP THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEK. 387 No. DEANS. Appointed. Died or Eemoved. 46 1512 1514 15161539 15441567 158916171624 1660 16631664 1676 16971703 1728174718031822 J Bishop of Lincoln . . . \ Archbishop of York . Died ..1513 47 .John Younff ...1514...1516 48 Brian Higden, L.L.D Eichard Layton, L.L.D Nicholas Wotton, L.L.D Died ...1539 49 Died ...1544 50 Died ...1567 51 /Bishop of Durham . . . \ Archbishop of York . Bishop of Worcester . . . Died Died Died ..1589 53535455 John Thomburgh, S.T.P George Meriton, S.T.P John Scott, S.T.P Eichard Marsh ...1594 ...1617 ...1624...1644...1663 56 WUliam Sancroft Dean of St. Paul's, Lond Died on 1664 57 Eobert Hitch, S.T.P Tobias Wickham ..1676 58 Died ...1697 59 Thomas Gale, S.T.P Died ...1702 fiO Died Carlisle Died ...1728 61 62 Eichard Osbaldeston, S.T.P. . . John Eountayne ...1747. ..1803 63 Died The present Dean. ..1832 64 W. Cockburn Bart ANNALS OP THE AECHBISHOPS.— Gent, on the authority of Dr. Heylin, tell us that King Lucius made this ancient See " a metropolitan," that its first Bishop was Sampson, and its last British Bishop Tadiacus. " Two others," he continues, "are mentioned, as Taurinus and Pyrannus; the last of whom is said to have been Chaplain to the renowned King Arthur."* In the preface to his History of York, the same authority tells us that the name of another British Bishop of York was Exuperius, if, as he says, we may credit a late account, in 1729, " That a man at Stanton, in Northamptonshire, threw up with his plough a large piece of plate, weighing seven pounds, four square, with a large cup in the middle of it, having the following very ancient inscription, Bxdpeeius Episcopus Ecclesioe Ebojiensb dedit." Gent does not give us the name of his author, nor can we find any place named Stanton in the County of Northampton. Eborius is the first Bishop of York of whom we have what would appear to be authentic information. According to some writers that prelate attended the Council of Aries, in a.d. 314 ; but as we have seen at page 77, the authenticity of this statement is somewhat doubtful. Of Eborius, the Centurists of Madgeburg give this testimony, that he was a man, considering the age wherein he lived, many ways learned, and most modest in his conversation ; that he wrote among other things. * Gent's Hist, York, pp. 388 HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEK. one book to his own countrymen, touching this Council of Aries, and several epistles to Hilary, Bishop of Poictiers, and that he was famous in the year of grace 350.* However, the first ^rchbishop of York appears to have been St. Paulinus, who was celebrated in the Eoman Martyrology as the Apostles of the largest and at that time the most powerful of the seven Kingdoms of the English Saxons. But before we proceed to give a few particulars of the several Archbishops that filled this See, we would remark with Mr. Camden that many of them were renowned for their learning, piety, and virtue. Dr. Heylin says, that from the See of York proceeded eight canonized Saints, three Cardinals, twelve Lord Chancellors, two Lord Treasurers, and three or four Lord Presidents of the great Council of the North. In 601 Pope Gregory the Great sent Paulinus, with Melitius, Justus, and others, to assist Augustine (who had been some time in England) in preaching the truths of Christianity to the Saxons. Alban Butler tells us that Gregory also sent " sacred vessels, altar cloths, and other ornaments for Churches, vestments for priests, relics of the Apostles and Martyrs, and many books, decreeing by letters, that when the northern countries should receive the faith, York should be appointed a Metropolitical See, in like manner with Canterbury." After labouring for some time in Kent with great zeal and piety, Paulinus was consecrated Bishop by St. Justus, Archbishop of Canter bury, on the 35th of July, 625. Edwin, the powerful King of Northum berland, demanded the Princess Ethelburgha, or Ethelburge, of Kent, but was answered by her brother King Eadbald, or Ethelbald, " that a Christian maid could not lawfully marry an Idolater, lest the faith and its mysteries should be profaned 'hj the company of one who was a stranger to the wor ship of the true God." Whereupon Edwin promised entire liberty and protection with regard to her religion, and expressed his own favourable disposition to the same. The Princess proceeded to the north, accompanied by her confessor, Paul inus, who undertook to preach the gospel to the people of Northumbria, and as we have seen at page 84, the King, his son Osfrid, whom he had by a for mer wife, his niece Hilda, his whole Court, and a multitude of the common people, were baptised at York by Paulinus on the 12th of April, 637, being Easter Day. Bede observes that Churches and baptistries not being yet built spacious enough for the crowds that flocked to receive baptism, St. Paulinus baptised great numbers in the river Swale near Catterick, where • Magdeb. Cent, iv., c. 10. HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. 389 the King's Palace stood, and which was anciently a great City, as appears from Ptolemy and others, though it is now only a small viUage, with a bridge, called Catterick Bridge. After preaching and baptising for some time in tha ancient Kingdom of Northumbria, our zealous Bishop crossed the Humber, and preached the faith to the inhabitants of Lindsey, in the Kingdom of Mercia, and baptised Blecca, the Saxon Prince or Governor of Lincoln. At Lincoln he built a Church of stone, in which, after the death of St. Justus, he consecrated St. Honorius Archbishop of Canterbury. Pope Honorius sent a pallium* to St. Paulinus, as the northern metropolitan in Britain ; and in his letter of con gratulation to King Edwin upon his conversion, he decreed as follows : — " As to what you desire concerning the ordination of your Bishops, we wil lingly agree to it ; and we send paUiums to your metropolitans, Honorius and PauUnus, that whenever it shall please God to called either of them, the other may ordain a successor for him by virtue of this letter. "f St. Paulinus, assisted by his Deacon, James, baptised a great multitude in the Trent, near Tiouulfingacaester, which Camden and Smith take to have been SouthweU, in Nottinhamshire. The East Angles also received the faith by the zeal of St. Paulinus and King Edwin. This good King being slain in battle in 633, with his son Osfrid, St. Paulinus conducted the Queen Ethelburgha into Kent by sea, and at Liming she founded a Nunnery, and took the veil. Paul inus not being permitted to quit his royal charge, or return to York, and the • The Pall, Pallia, or Pallium, which the Pope sends to Archbishops, is an ornament worn npon their shoulders, with a label hanging down the breast and back. It is made of white lamb's wool, and spotted with purple crosses, " and is worn," says the Eev. Alban Butler, " as a token of the spiritual jurisdiction of metropolitans over the Churches of their whole province. It is regarded," continues the same authority, " as au emblem of humUity, charity, aud innocence, and serves to put the prelate in mind that he is bound to seek out aud carry home on his shoulders the strayed sheep, in imitation of Christ, the Good Shepherd, and the Prince of Pastors." Cardinal Bona says the white lambs are blessed on the festival of St. Agnes in her Convent at Eome, and from that time kept in some Nunnery tUl they are shorn ; and of the wool are the paUiums made, which are laid over the tomb of St. Peter the whole night of the vigil before the feast of that Apostle. Archbishops only wear them in the Church during the divine oflSce. Spelman, in his Glossary, Thomassin, &c., show that a palUum was a robe or mantle worn by the Eoman Emperors, and that the first Christian Emperors gave this imperial ornament to eminent Bishops, to wear as an emblem of the royalty of the Christian priesthood. It was afterwards appropriated to Archbishops to show their dignity, and to command greater respect, as God prescribed several ornaments to be worn by the Jewish high priest. According to Burton, the pall was originaUy a rich and magnificent robe of state, which hung down to the ground. + Bede, 1, 3, c. 17. 890 HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEK. See of Ehofi, now Eochester, being then vacant, King Eadbald entreated Archbishop Honorius to appoint him (Paulinus) Bishop thereof. James, whom our Bishop left behind, took care of the distressed Church of York, and baptised many living near Catterick-on-the-Swale, at a viUage which after wards took his name, says Bede, where he died at a very advanced age. St. Paulinus died at Rochester (where he was buried) on the 10th of October, 644, having occupied the Archiepiscopal. throne of York, from 625 to 633, and been Bishop of Eochester eleven years.* After the death of King Edwin, the Northumbrians relapsed into idolatry ; but, as we have seen at page 85, St. Oswald obtained St. Aidan, an Irish monk of Hij, for Bishop, and by him the faith was planted again in that Kingdom. The See of York was vacant for about thirty-four years, during seventeen years of which St. Aidan governed all the Churches of Northumbria. He arrived in th'e King dom in 635, and received the Isle of Lindisfarne, where he fixed the episcopal chair, and erected a Monastery. From this institution aU the Churches of Bernicia, or the northern part of the Kingdom of the Northumbers, from the Tyne to the Frith of Forth, had their beginning ; as had some also of those of the Deira, who inhabited the southern part of the same Kingdom, from the Tyne to the Humber. St. Aidan died in 651. Finan and Colman, his countrymen, succeeded him, and had all the Kingdom of Northumberland for their diocese. St. Ceadda, or Chad, was the second Archbishop of York. He was brother to St. Cedd, Bishop of London, or of the East Saxons, and was educated in the Monastery of Lindisfarne, under St. Aidan. For his greater improvement in sacred letters he passed into Ireland, and spent a considerable time in the company of St. Egbert, tiU he was caUed back by his brother St. Cedd, to assist him in settling the Monastery of Lastingham, which he had founded in the mountains of the Deira, that is, the Wolds of Yorkshire ; and when St. Cedd was made Bishop of the East Saxons, St. Chad succeeded him as Abbot of Lastingham. Alfred, or Alcfrid, King of Deira, on the southem » Kiug Edwin, and his Queen Ethelburge, as weU as Paulinus, have been canonized by the Church, and are consequently styled Saints. St. Edwin is honoured with ths title of Martyr in the Martyrology of Floras, and in aU our EngUsh calendars. Speed, in his catalogue, mentions an old Church in London, and another at Breve, in Somer setshire, of both which St. Edwin was the titular patron. WiUiam of Malmesbury and Alford has inserted, ad. ann. 633, the letter of Pope Honorius to this sainted King, which is also extant, together with his letter to Honorius, Archbishop of Canterbury, in Bede, and Cone, t. vi. For further particulars respecting SS. PauUnus and Edwin, see page 83 of this history. The reUcs of St. Ethelburge were honoured with those of St. Edburg at Liming Monastery. Leh CoUect, t. i. HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEK. 391 part of the Kingdom of the Northumbers, sent St. Wilfrid into France, that he might be consecrated to the Bishopric of his Kingdom, or of York ; but he stayed so long abroad, that Oswy, the father of Alfred, and King of Ber nicia, nominated St. Chad to that dignity, and he was ordained by Wini, Bishop of Winchester, assisted by two British prelates, in 666. Bede as sures us that he zealously devoted himself to all the laborious functions of his charge, visiting his diocese on foot, preaching the gospel, and seeking out the poorest and most abandoned persons to instruct and comfort in the meanest cottages, and in the fields. Jaruman, the fourth Bishop of the Mercians, dying, St. Chad was called upon to take upon him the charge of that most extensive diocese. He fixed the See of Mercia at Lichfield, so caUed from a great number of martyrs slain and buried there under Maxi- mianus Herculeus ; the name signifying the Field of Carcases ; and hence the Corporation of that City bears for its arms a landscape, covered with the bodies of martyrs. St. Chad governed his diocese of Lichfield for two years and a half, and died in the great pestilence, on the 3nd of March, 673. St. WUfrid, the next prelate, was born in the Kingdom of Northumberland towards the year 634. At the age of fourteen he was sent to the Monastery of Lindisfarne, that he might be trained up in the study of the sacred sci ences. A desire of greater improvement than he could attain at this house caused him to travel through France and Italy, visiting the most famous Monasteries in his way, the better to instruct himself in the rules of Chris tian perfection. At Eome he contracted a friendship with Boniface, the Archdeacon, who was a very pious and a very learned man ; as well as sec retary to St. Martin, the then reigning Pontiff. The Archdeacon took much delight in instructing young WUfrid, and at length he presented him to the Pope. On his return from Eome he stayed three years at Lyons, and received the ecclesiastical tonsure from the Archbishop, St. Delphinius, who desired to make him his heir ; but the good prelate was put to death at Challons- upon-the-Saone by the order of Ebroin, in the year 658. Alchfrid, the King of Deira, being informed that Wilfrid, who had just returned from his tour, had been instructed in the discipline of the Eoman Church, sent for him, and finding him weU versed in the several customs of that Church, he conjured him to continue with him, to instruct him and his people in ecclesiastical discipUne. This Wilfrid consented to, and the Prince entered into an in timate friendship with him, and gave him land at Eipon to found a Monastery upon, which the Saint afterwards governed. At the request of Alchfrid, he was ordained priest hy Agilberct, Bishop of the West Saxons, in a.d. 663, in the Monastery of Ripon. This Bishop having stated that a person of such 393 HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEK. merit as Wilfrid ought to be promoted to a bishopric, and Alchfrid being anxious that Wilfrid should be placed in the episcopal See of York, sent him some time after to France to be consecrated at the hands of Agilberct, who returned to France, which was his native country, and where the bishopric of Paris was given him. WUfrid being absent a long time on this journey, Oswy caused St. Ceadda or Chad, Abbot of Lastingham, a disciple of St. Aidan, to be ordained Bishop. Agilberct joyfully received Wilfrid, and with twelve other Bishops consecrated him with great solemnity at Compeigne in 664; he being then in the thirtieth year of his age. At his return into England he would not dispute the election of St. Chad, but retired to Ripon, which Monastery he made his residence for three years. St. Theodorus, Archbishop of Canterbury, in his visitation, found the election of St. Chad to have been irregular, and removed him ; but charmed with his humility and virtue, placed him in the See of Lichfield. At the same time he put St. Wilfrid in possession of the See of York in 699. Being a man of most per suasive oratory and strict virtue, he promoted every where religion and piety with incredible success. The monastic state was a principal object of his care, and this he settled among the midland and northern English, as St. Augustine had established it in Kent. But Wilfrid's day of trial and perse cution is at hand ; court envy, jealousy, and resentment are the secret springs which are about to put in motion the engines that were employed against him, through the simplicity or ignorance of many, the malice of some, and the complaisance and condescension of others. Being the best skiUed in sacred learning, and in the Canons of the Church in all Britain, as St. Theo dorus, on his death-bed acknowledged him to be, he was too great a discipli narian for some at Court. King Egfrid and his Queen Ermenburga took a dislike to him ; and the latter employed every base means to ruin him in the opinion of her husband. In order to undermine him, a project was set on foot for dividing his bishopric, after the good prelate had spent ten years in settling Christianity in it. Theodorus, Archbishop of Canterbury, and Metropolitan of all England, was gained by specious pretences, and he par celled this great diocese into three portions, and consecrated Bosa to the See of York, for the Deira, in 678'; Eata to that of Lindisfarne, for Bernicia; and Eadhed to the Church of Lindiswaras, a great part of Lincolnshire, which Egfrid had won from Mercia.* Wilfrid, for opposing this partition, was rejected; but being weU versed in the Canons, he saw the irregularity and nuUity of many steps that had been taken against him ; and he appealed * Johnson's CoUect of EngUsh Canons, an. 679, pref. HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. 393 to the Pope, and embarked for Eome without raising any clamour, lest a disturbance or a schism might arise. Being driven by contrary winds at sea upon the coast of Friesland, he was moved to compassion upon seeing the spiritual blindness and idolatry of the inhabitants, and he preached among them during that winter and the foUowing spring ; and converted and bap tised many thousands, with several lords of the country. WUfred is honoured to this day as the Apostle of that country. Next summer Wilfrid leaving his new converts under the direction of proper pastors, he traveUed through Austrasia, where King Dagobert II. entreated him to fiU the bishopric of Strasburg, which happened then to be vacant. This honour he refused, and he arrived in Eome late in the year 679, as the Pope was preparing to hold a great Council against the Monothelites. In the meantime, to discuss this cause of St. Wilfrid's, the Pope assembled a Synod in October, 679, in the Lateran Basilica, or Church of Our Saviour, con sisting of above fifty Bishops and Priests, chiefly of the Suburbicarian Churches. The causes of the dissension in the British Church having been weighed, it was decreed that there should be in it one Archbishop honoured with the paU, who should canonically ordain the Bishops of the other Sees ; but that none of the Bishops should presume to meddle with the rights of any other prelate, but aU should study to instruct and convert the people. After this St. WUfrid was admitted to the Council, and having presented his petition in person, it was definitely decreed that he should be restored to his bishopric. St. Wilfrid stayed about four months at Rome, and assisted at the great Lateran Council of one hundred and twenty five Bishops, in which he, with the rest, condemned the Monothelite heresy. ' When he arrived in England, and showed to the King the sealed decrees of the Pope, that Prince declared that they had been obtained by bribery, and commanded a certain steward of the Church for secular affairs to commit Wilfrid to prison, where he was detained for nine months. On being released from prison, he repaired to the Kingdom of the South Saxons, which had not yet received the light of faith, and there by his preaching converted the whole nation. King Egfrid was slain in battle by the Picts in 685 ; St. Wilfrid was caUed back to Northumberland towards the end of the year 686 ; and the Monasteries of Hexham and Eipon, and the episcopal See of York, were restored to him ; Bosa of York, and St. John of Beverley, at Hexham, re linquishing their Sees to him. Theodorus had first parceUed the bishopric of York into three, and afterwards into five bishoprics ; and St. Wilfrid, after his restoration, reduced Hexham and Eipon to their original condition of mere Monasteries. But a new storm arose against him. King Alcfrid, the 3 E 394 HISTOEY OP THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEK. successor of Egfrid, would have a new bishopric erected at Ripon. St. Wil frid opposed the project, and was obliged once more to fly, in 691, five years after he had been restored. He retired to Ethelred, Kiug of the Mercians, who received him most graciously, and entreated him to take upon himself the See of Lichfield, which was then vacant. Our Saint founded many Monasteries and Churches in Mercia ; but finding his enemies in Northum berland had gained Brithwald, Archbishop of Canterbury, and were soUciting a sentence of deposition against him, he appealed a second time to Rome, and took another journey thither in a.d. 703. His accusers appeared there against him, but Pope John VI. honourably acquitted him. His very enemies had always acknowledged his life to be irreproachable ; and a Bishop cannot be deposed unless a canonical fault be proved against him in a Synod. St. Wilfrid met at Rome with that protection and applause which were due to his heroic virtue. Pope John, in the year 704, sent letters by an express messenger to the Kings of Mercia and Northumberland in favour of the per secuted Bishop, charging Archbishop Brithwald to call a Synod, which should do him justice ; and in default of which, he ordered the parties to make their personal appearance at Rome. St. WUfrid returned to England, and took possession of the Diocese at Hexham, but chiefly resided in his Monastery of Ripon, leaving York to St. John of Beverley. He governed the Monasteries in Mercia, of which he had been the founder, and which were afterwards de stroyed by the Danes ; and he died at one of them at Undalum, now caUed Oundle, in Northamptonshire, on the 34th of April, 709, and his body was buried in his Church of St. Peter at Eipon. That Monastery having been destroyed by the wars, the greater part of his remains was translated to Can terbury. St. Wilfrid's modesty is remarkable in never soliciting the metro- political jurisdiction, which St. Gregory had ordained should be settled at York, and which had been granted to St. Paulinus. It had faUed in the Bishops who resided at Lindisfarne ; but was recovered, in 734, by Egbert, brother to Eadbright, or Eadbert, King of Northumbria. Bosa, who was, according to Bede, a man of great sanctity and humility, occupied the See of York, from 678 to 685, and from 698 to his death, which. occurred in 705. He was the first prelate buried in the Cathedral of York. St. John of Beverley. — This iUustrious prelate was born of a noble Saxon family, at Harpham on the Wolds, near Driffield, in or about the year 640. His father contributed much to prevent the utter ruin of Christianity in the places where lay his territorial possessions. It is recorded by Bede, that an earnest desire to qualify himself for the service of God drew him into Kent, where he was a pupil in the famous school of St. Theodorus, or Theodore, HISTOEY OP THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEK. 395 the Archbishop of Canterbury, who was a native of the Grecian City of Tar sus.* " At a period when learning was in its infancy," says the learned author of Beverlac,]- " the arrival of Theodore, with his companion Adrian, on the shores of England, was a most auspicious event. Both these men were eminently qualified for tutors, from their thorough knowledge of sacred and profane literature, as well as of the Latin and Greek languages. Theo dore's visit to the Northumbrian Court of Egfrid, which occasioned the division of the former extensive Diocese of York, probably led to John's pro ceeding to Kent. The spirit of emulation excited among the Saxon youth, had drawn a crowd of pupils to the School of Canterbury, and John was dis tinguished as one of Theodore's most eminent pupils." St. John afterwards returned to his own country, and entered the Monastery of men, under St. HUda, at Streaneshalch, now Whitby, where he exercised himself in studying the Holy Scriptures, and in the practice of other works of religious piety. During the absence of St. Wilfrid, and the convulsions which agitated the Church in Northumbria, John succeeded Eata, as Bishop of Hagulstad, now Hexham ; and there his splendid talents had fuU scope for their exercise. The Venerable Bede, the historian of the Anglo-Saxon Church, the pupil and biographer of this prelate, and from whom he (Bede) received the Holy Orders of deacon and priest, gives ample testimony of his sanctity, learning, and zeal. As an instructor of youth he was far famed, and many of his pupUs afterwards attained to great eminence. As he advanced in Ufe he dedicated himself more exclusively to his clerical duties, and travelling about as a missionary, instructed the rude and ignorant multitude in the duties and doctrines of the Gospel. The state of the Church was at that time widely different from what it is now. There was then no division into parishes, no resident ministry. The clergy of each diocese resided with his Bishop, in what was caUed the episcopal monastery adjoining the Cathedral, and were sent out by him to the different Churches of his diocese, as he had opportu nity, and as the necessities of the people required. In this toilsome, but useful occupation, John laboured with distinguished zeal and diligence, as weU as eminent success. At a subsequent period he betook himself tc a life of solitude, and lived for some time as a hermit in the neighbourhood of Hexham. At the death of Bosa, Archbishop of York, John was selected by the Synod to supply his place, aud he was solemnly instaUed by his friend and former tutor St. Theodore, in 687. He now held the Archiepiscopal See of York, and the Bishopric of Hexham, and this distinguished position • Bede's Eccles, Hist., lib, v., c. 2. + p. 28. 396 HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. speaks loudly of the estimation in which his virtues were held. He em ployed his time in personally visiting the Churches, and with most laudable and indefatigable attention, he conciliated the affections of his pagan op- posers, and brought many of them into the fold of Christianity. Miracles innumerable, too, were attributed to his holy agency. He was neither lux urious nor ambitious, and he took no part in the disputes which at that period agitated the Christian Church, but on the contrary, he was humble in his deportment and manner of life, and unassuming in his general conduct. Soon after St. John's advancement to the See of York, Wilfrid returned from Rome in triumph to his diocese, and John, with a spirit of Christian meek ness tendered his resignation, which WUfrid was not permitted to accept. But on the reconciUation of the latter with the Bishops, in 705, he resigned to him the Bishopric of Hexham. The zeal of our good prelate now expanded itself, and Christianity began to assume a more flourishing appearance in the north, under his benign auspices. He extended his visitations to every part and corner of the pro vince, and superintended the building and reparation of Churches, and the foundation of Monasteries. In one of his visitations he came to a spot now caUed Beverley, and finding it suitable for the holy offices of prayer and meditation, he resolved to buUd there a reUgious establishment. He accor dingly erected a Monastery at Beverley for black monks, and an Oratory for Nuns. In 718, being much worn out with age and fatigues, St. John re signed his Bishopric to his Chaplain, Wilfrid the younger, and having con secrated him Bishop of York, he retired to Beverley, where he spent the remaining four years of his life in the punctual performance of all monastic duties, and where he died, on the 7th of May, 721, fuU of years and with his memory overshadowed by the benedictions of mankind. His body was buried in the porch (portions) of the Church of Beverley. His reUcs were translated into the Church, by Alfric, Archbishop of York, in 1037 ; and a feast in honour of his translation was kept at York on the 35th of October. On the 13th of September, 1664, the sexton, in digging a grave in the Church of Beverley, discovered a vault of freestone, in which was a box of . lead yielding a sweet smeU, with inscriptions by which it appeared that these were the mortal remains of St. John of Beverley.* These reUcs had been hid in the beginning of the reign of King Edward VI. Dugdale and Stevens testify that they were aU re-interred in the nave of the same Church. King Henry V. attributed to the intercession of this Saint, the glorious victory of * Dugdale's Histoid of the Collegiate Church of Beverley, p. 57. HISTOEY OP THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. 397 Agincourt, on which occasion a Synod, in 1416, ordered his festival to be solemnly kept all over England.* Hensohenius, the Bolandist, has published four books of the miracles wrought at the relics of St. John of Beverley, written by an eye witness.f Wilfrid II. governed this Diocese fifteen years, " and was a great lover of the beauty of God's house." This prelate began the contention for prece dency between York and Canterbury, which for many subsequent years continued to disturb the Church. He died or was translated in 731. Egbert, 731. — He was brother to Eadbert, King of Northumbria, and the tutor and friend of Alcuin, a learned monk of York, and author of several works, including a poem on the Saints of the Diocese. Egbert, according to Bede, was stiU more eminent for his superiority in knowledge than for his high birth. As has been already observed, the metropolitical jurisdiction of the See of York was recovered by this prelate in 734. He died on the 13th of November, 766, and was buried in the Church porch of the Cathedral, near his brother King Eadbert. Albert, Elbert, or Adelbert, the next Archbishop, was a native of York, and was consecrated in 767. Archbishops Egbert and Albert taught a great School in the City of York, tiU they were successively placed in the Archie piscopal chair. When Albert succeeded Egbert in that dignity, he committed to Alcuin the care of the School, and of the great Library belonging to the Cathedral. Albert died or was translated in 781, and was buried at Chester. Eanbald, his nephew, was his successor. He sent Alcuin to Rome to bring over his paU, in 780. Eanbald died in 796, and was buried at York. The next Archbishop was Eanbald IL, and he was succeeded by Wulsius, who died in 833. Wimund, or Wimundus, his successor, died in 854. Wilfere, Wilferus, or Wulfer, 854. — In the year 873 this prelate was ex pelled his Diocese, together with King Egbert, by a tumult of the Northum bers, and they were forced to fly to Burrhed, King of Mercia, by whom they were kindly entertained. Egbert dying the following year, his successor recaUed Wilfere to his See, and he died in the year 895. During the greatest part of his time the Danes so horribly wasted his Province with fire and ' sword, that for many years together the Archbishop reaped little benefit from it ; and the successors of Wilfere not having any means with which to sustain themselves, obtained the administration of the Diocese of Worcester, which for a long time they held in commendum. The next two Archbishops of York were Ethelbald, 895 ; and Redwardus, 931. • See Lynwoode, Provinciale, 104. + Second Tome of May, p. 173, 398 HISTOEY OP THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. Wulstan, 941. — This prelate espoused the cause of AnlaflF, the Danish King of Northumbria, against Edred, the King of England. He was com mitted to prison by the latter, but was soon released, and restored to office. He died on the 36th of December, 955, and was buried at Oundle. Oskitell, or OscyteU, his successor, was translated to York from Dorchester, and died in 971 ; and Athelwald, who was immediately consecrated, resigned his prelacy the same year, and died in retirement. St. Oswald, the next prelate, was nephew to St. Odo, Archbishop of Can terbury, and to OskiteU, his own immediate predecessor in the See of York. He was educated by St. Odo, and made Dean of Winchester, but passing into France, he took the monastic habit at Fleury. Being recalled he suc ceeded St. Dunstan in the See of Worcester, about the year 969. He es tablished a Monastery of monks at Westberry, a viUage in his Diocese ; and he was employed by Duke Aylwin, cousin to King Edgar, in superintending his foundation of the great Abbey of Ramsey, in an island formed by marshes and the river Ouse, in Huntingdonshire, in the year 973. St. Oswald was made Archbishop of York in 974, and he shone as a bright star in this dignity. He was almost always occupied in visiting his Diocese, preaching without intermission, and reforming abuses. He was a great encourager of learning and learned men. St. Dunstan, who had been raised to the Metro politan See of Canterbury, obUged him to retain the See of Worcester with that of York. Whatever intermission his functions aUowed him, he spent it at St. Mary's, a Church and Monastery of Benedictines which he had buUt at Worcester, where he joined with the monks in their monastic exercises. This Church from that time became the Cathedral. After having sat thirty- three years, he expired at St. Mary's in Worcester, on the 29th of February, 993. His body was taken up ten years after, and enshrined by Adulph, his successor. It was afterwards translated to York on the 15th of October, which day was appointed his principal festival. Aldulfe, 993.— A pious and worthy prelate; he also held the See of Wor cester, in commendum. He died on the 6th of May, 1003, and was buried at Worcester. Wulstan IL, 1003.— He also held the See of Worcester; died in York, ' May 38th, 1023, and was buried in the Cathedral of Ely, " because on a certain time," says an old writer, " having in devotion gone thither, at a procession leaning on his episcopal crozier, the staff entered almost half way into the pavement; whereat being astonished, he sayd in a prophetical manner, ' This is the place of my rest for ever, here will I dweU.' " HISTOEY OP THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEK. 399 Alfric, surnamed Putta, or Puttoc, Prior of Winchester, was appointed to this See in 1033 ; he died in 1050, and was buried in Peterborough Abbey. Kinsius, 1050. — This was a prelate of great austerity, mostly walking barefoot in his parochial visitations. He died on the 23nd of December, 1060, and was buried at Peterborough. Aldred, the last Archbishop of the Saxon race, was translated from Wor cester in 1060. This prelate crowned WiUiam the Conqueror in 1066. He died on the 11th of September, 1069, and was buried at York. Thomas, the first Norman prelate, a Canon of Bayeaux in Normandy, and Chaplain and Treasurer to WUliam the Conqueror, was appointed to this See in 1070. This prelate found the affairs of the Church in great disorder, in consequence of the dreadful havoc which the Danes had made in the sur rounding country. He founded the offices of Dean, Treasurer, and Chanter, in the Cathedra], and he divided the Church lands into Prebends, and gave a particular portion to each Canon ; for before his time the Canons Uved upon the common revenues of the Church all at one table. Archbishop Thomas died at Ripon on the 18th of November, 1100, and was buried in the Cathedral of York. Gerard, his successor, was translated from Hereford in the same year. He, as well as his predecessor, refused obedience to Canterbury, but at length submitted by command of the Pope. His death occurred on the 21st of May, 1108, and he was buried at York. Thomas IL, nephew to Thomas the first Norman Archbishop, was Pro vost of Beverley. He was Bishop elect of London, but before consecration was removed to the See of York. He was consecrated in June, 1109, died February 19th, 1114, and was buried at York. Thurstan, a learned and exceUent prelate, had been Chaplain to King Henry I., a Canon of St. Paul's, and Provost of Beverley. He was elected to the See of York on the 15th of August, 1114, but presuming upon his interest at Court, he revived the old dispute between the Metropolitan Sees of York and Canterbury ; and owing to the altercations which arose out of his refusal to make any profession of canonical obedience to the See of Can terbury, he was not consecrated tiU October, 1119. He received the pallium at Rheims. Archbishop Thurstan was Lord Lieutenant of the North, and organised the troops that fought the famous Battle of the Standard. (See page 128.). After having occupied his See for twenty-one years, he retired to the Cluniac Monastery at Pontefract, to prepare himself for his death, which occurred the year following (1140), on the 5th of February. St. William, the next prelate, was the son of Earl Herbert and Emma, ¦400 HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. sister to King Stephen ; and before his election he was Treasurer of the Ca thedral. He was consecrated at Winchester in September, 1144. But Osbert, the Archdeacon, a turbulent man, procured Henry Murdac, a Cis tercian monk of the Abbey of Fountains, who was a man of great learning, and a zealous preacher, to be prefered at Rome, whither WUliam went to demand his palUum. The most unwarrantable means were used with the Pope (Eugenius HI.) to the prejudice of WiUiam; and his enemies suc ceeded in their efforts to have him deprived in 1147. WilUam, who, amongst his many virtues, was possessed of the deepest humility, showed no enmity, and sought no revenge against his most inveterate enemies, who had prepos sessed the Pope against him by the blackest calumnies. He returned to England, went privately to Winchester to his uncle Henry, Bishop of that See, and in a retired house belonging to the Bishop, he spent seven years in silence, soUtude, prayer, and penitential austerities. Archbishop Murdac was never permitted to enter the City, having quarrelled with King Stephen, whose part the Canons and citizens warmly espoused. He lived at Beverley, and died there, October 14th, 1158 ; but he was interred in the Cathedral of his Diocese, though he had never been permitted to enter it whUst he lived. At his death, St. WilUam, to satisfy the importunities of others, by whom he was again elected, undertook a second journey to Eome, and received the paUium from Pope Anastatius IV., who succeeded Pope Eugenius HI. On his return to York he was received with incredible joy by the people. The great numbers who assembled on that occasion to see and welcome him, broke down the wooden bridge over the Ouse in the City, and a great many persons fell in the river. Seeing this terrible accident, the prelate addressed himself to God with many tears, and to his sanctity and prayers has been ascribed the miraculous preservation of the whole multitude, especiaUy of the children, who all escaped out of the water without hurt.* A few days after his instal lation he was seized with a fever, of which he died on the 8th of June, 1154. He was buried in his Cathedral, and about the year 1380 he was canonized by Pope Nicholas IIL, who granted an indulgence of one hundred and forty days to all persons visiting the Saint's tomb on the day of his festival, or any day during the octave ; and so great was the fame of the reported miracles • Polydore VirgU pretends that this happened on the river Aire at Pontefract ; but B compton and Stubbs expressly say that it was in the City of York, on the river Ouse where stood a Chapel till the Eeformation, dedicated to St. William, as Mr. Drake testifies. Pontefract could not derive its name from this accident, as Polydore imagined ; for we find it so called long before ; and the name was originally written Pomfrete, or .Pontfrete, from a very different Norman etymology. HISTOEY OP THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. 401 of St. WiUiam, that numbers resorted thither, and made large offerings for rebuUding the Cathedral. The Saint's tomb was situated in the nave, but in 1284 his relics were put into a very rich shrine, and deposited in the choir by Archbishop Wickwane. This shrine was portable, so that the Saint's bones could be borne in procession; and the removal or Translation of the relics from the grave in the nave of the Church to the shrine, was performed with much ceremony. King Edward I., Queen Eleanor, and the whole Court, with eleven Bishops, being present. Large offerings were made on this oc casion, which helped greatly to swell the funds for building the Minster. Drake says that a table containing a list of thirty-six miracles, with a copy of the above-mentioned indulgence, is stiU to be seen in the vestry, but no longer legible. The shrine, with its rich plate and jewels, was plundered at the Eeformation, but the Saint's bones were deposited in a box within a coffin, and buried in the nave under a large spotted marble stone. Drake had the curiosity to see the ground opened, and found them with their box and coffin in 1783. He laid them again in the same place, with a mark. A Chapel, as before stated, was erected to his memory on the old Ouse Bridge. Archbishop Roger succeeded St. William in 1154, and he died at Sherburn on the 33nd of November, 1181, and was buried at York. After his death the See was vacant for ten years. Geoffrey Plantagenet, Provost of Beverley, and Archdeacon of Lincoln, was consecrated August 18th, 1191. He was the second iUegitimate son of King Henry II. and his renowned mistress, " Fair Eosamond," daughter of Walter, Lord Clifford, of Clifford Castle, in Herefordshire. He filled the high office of Lord Chancellor of England for eight years, and he was High Sheriff of the County of York in 1195. (See page 139.) He is highly spoken of as fulfiUing his various duties, lay and clerical, in a judicious and disinterested manner ; but crossing the King's purposes, by opposing in his See the col lection of the obnoxious taxes laid on land by that Monarch, " for his niece's great dowry, and his own martial uses," he was obliged to vacate his See in 1307; and after undergoing many difficulties, he died in exile at Grosmont, in Normandy, on the 18th of December, 1213. Walter de Grey, the next Archbishop — a man of sound judgment, strict morality, and great experience — was translated from Worcester on the 18th of November, 1215. This prelate amassed great wealth, and expended it in a munificent manner. On the occasion of the marriage of Henry the Third's daughter, Margaret, to Alexander, King of Scotland, in this City, in 1351, he entertained the two Monarchs and their retinues. (See page 130.) He 3 F 403 HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. buUt the present north transept of the Minster, expending on it a vast sum. He also purchased the Manor of Thorpe, or St. Andrew's Thorpe, now caUed Bishopthorpe, and bequeathed it to his successors ; and he bought a house in Westminster of the Friars Preachers", which was thence caUed York Place, and which continued to be the town residence of the Archbishops of York tiU Henry the Eighth's time, when it was presented to that Monarch by Wolsey. He died in London on the 1st of May, 1355, and was buried in a splendid tomb in his own Cathedral, which stiU remains. Sewal de BovU, 1306. — He was excommunicated for opposing the prefer ment of foreigners to ecclesiastical dignities, especially an Italian, whom the Pope had constituted Dean of York. He was reconcUed to the Church on his death-bed, and he died May 10th, 1358. Godfrey de Kinton, or Keynton, elected September 23rd, 1358. — He appro priated Mexborough to his Church, and it has been since that period annexed to the Deanery of York. He died on the ISth of January, 1364, and was buried in the Cathedral. WaUer Gifford was translated from Bath and Wells, in 1265. He was Lord Chancellor of England, and died April 35, 1279, and was buried at York. William Wickwane, September 19th, 1379 ; died August the 26th, 1285 ; and was buried at Pontimac. John le Bomayne, February 10th, 1286. — He died at Bishop Burton, near Beverley, March 11th, 1296, and was buried in his own Cathedral. Henry de Newark, June 24th, 1298 ; died August 15th, 1299 ; and was interred at York. Thomas de Corbridge, or Corbrigge, February 28th, 1399. — He died at Langham, in Nottinghamshire, on the 33nd of September, 1303, and was buried at SouthweU, in the same County. William de Grenfield, January 30th, 1305. — This prelate was obliged to travel to Rome for the approbation of the Pope, and waited two years before he could obtain it. He died on the 16th of December, 1315, and was buried at York. He had been Lord Chancellor of England. WUliam de Melton, September 35th, 1817. — This active prelate fiUed suc cessively the high offices of Lord Chancellor, and Treasurer of England, and he signalised himself by raising an undisciplined army, and attacking the Scots at Myton, near Boroughbridge, in 1320. (See page 136). He died on the 5 th of April, 1340, and was buried at York. William de la Zouche, July 6th, 1343. — He is famous for his courage and valour at the battle of Nevil's Cross, near Durham, in 1347. (See page 143). He died July 19th, 1353, and was buried at York. HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEK. 403 John de Thoresby, LL.D., was translated from the See of Worcester on the 8th of September, 1354. He was of an ancient family near Middleham, and was esteemed the most learned man of his day. In his time the Arch bishop of York was made by the Pope, Primate of England, and the Arch bishop of Canterbury Primate of All England ; and thus was settled the disputes for precedence which had previously existed between the two Sees. He was made a Cardinal by the title of St. Peter ad Vincula, and before receiving this Archbishopric, he had been some time Keeper of the Great Seal and Lord Chancellor of England. He died on the 6th of November, 1373, and was buried at York. Alexander Neville, December 18th, 1374. — This prelate was one of the favourites of the unfortunate Monarch Richard II., a circumstance which lUtimately proved his ruin. The malcontent nobles accused him, with sev eral others, of high treason, and certain articles were exhibited against him in ParUament. The Archbishop seeing the gathering storm, withdrew pri vately from his Castle at Cawood, but was arrested at Newcastle-upon-Tyne, and the money in his possession, amounting only to thirty pounds, taken from him and given to his captors. He, however, subsequently escaped, but his temporalities were forfeited to the Crown by a bill of outlawry. After living in exile for some time in great want, the Pope commiserating his con dition, on his resignation of the See of York, translated him to St. Andrews. The Scots having at that time refused to acknowledge Pope Urban (there being another claimant for the Papacy in the person of Clement VII.), would not receive his nominee, and the unhappy prelate became from necessity a parish priest and schoolmaster at Louvain ; and after dragging on through five years of exile, he died in May, 1392, and was buried in the Church of the Carmelites of that town. Thomas Arundel, second son of Richard, Earl of Arundel, and Archdeacon of Taunton, was translated from Ely, March 35th, 1389. Being Lord ChanceUor as weU as Archbishop of York, he removed the Seals and aU the King's Courts from London to York for six months, in order to humble the Londoners who had offended the King. After he had fiUed this See for six years, he was removed to Canterbury in 1396, which is the first instance of a translation from York to that See. Robert Waldby, a native of York, and a Friar of the Monastery of St Augustine, York, was the next Archbishop. He was a pious and eloquent man, and a great proficient in aU kinds of literature. He was translated from Chichester, January 13th, 1397 ; died May 39tb, 1398; and was buried at Westminster,' 404 HISTOEY OP THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. Richard Scrope or Scroope, was translated from Lichfield, July 6th, 1398. This prelate was beheaded for high treason, at Scarcroft, according to Mr. Davies, on the 8th of June, 1405. Mr. Brown, in his History of the Cathe dral, says that this sacrUegious act was perpetrated in a field at Clemen thorpe ; Gent says that the Archbishop was beheaded in a field near Bishop thorpe ; and Drake describes it as, " in a field between Bishopthorpe and York." (See page 147). He was buried in the Minster, and was so much beloved by the people, that immediately after his death his grave was visited by numbers, and so many miracles were said to be performed there, that Henry IV. ordered that it should be concealed by great logs of wood. His present monument in the Lady Chapel was subsequently erected. Scrope's rebeUion forms one of the principal scenes in Shakespeare's play of Henry IV. Henry Bowet, a very liberal and hospitable prelate, was translated from Bath and WeUs, December 9, 1405 ; he died at Cawood, October 20, 1433, and was buried in the Cathedral. John Kempe, a man of humble parentage in Kent, was translated from London, in April, 1436 ; was made Archbishop of Canterbury, and became Lord High ChanceUor of England, and a Cardinal of the See of Rome. He built the gate house of the old Palace at Cawood, and died and was buried at Canterbury in 1451. WiUiam Boothe was translated from Lichfield on the 4th of September, 1453 ; he died, September 30, 1464, and was buried where he died at Southwell. George Nerille, the next prelate, was brother to Eichard, the famous King- making Earl of Warwick, and was translated from Exeter, in 1465.* On * On the day on which this prelate was enthroned, January 15th, 1466, he gave the largest entertainment ever made by a subject. In Hearne's additions to Leland's Col lectanea, the bUl of fare is as follows: — "In wheat, 300 quarters; ale, 300 tons; wine, 100 tons; ipocrass, 1 pipe; wUd buUs, 6; muttons, 1,000; veales, 304; porkers, 304; swanns, 400; geese, 2,000; capons, 1,000; pygges, 2,000; plovers, 400; quales, 100 dozen; fowles called rees, 200 dozen; peacocks, 104; mallardes and teals, 4,000; kyddes, 204; chickens, 2,000; pigeons, 4,000; conyes, 4,000; hitters, 204; heron- shawes, 400; fessantes, 200 ; partridges, 500; woodcocks, 400; curleins, 100; egretts, 1000; staggs, bucks, and roes, 500 and mo.; pastes of venison colde, 4,000; parted dyshes of jeUy, 1,000; playne dyshes of jelly, 8,000; cold tartes baked, 3,000; hot pasties of venison, 1,500; pykes and breames, 604; porposes and seales, 13; spices, sugard deUcates, and wafers, plenty." Amongst the officers of the feast the Earl of Warwick was steward ; the Earl of Bedford, and the Lord Hastings, comptrollers ; with many other noble officers. The number of officers and servants of officers was 1,000; of cooks in the kitchen, 62 ; and of " other men servants, with broohe turners, 115," HISTOEY OP THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. 405 the death of the Earl, at the battle of Barnet, our prelate was accused of treason, imprisoned four years, and died of a broken heart soon after his liberation, June 8, 1476, and was buried at York. He had been Lord ChanceUor of England. Lawrence Boothe, Provost of Beverley, Chancellor of the University of Cambridge, and Lord Chancellor of England, was translated from Durham, September 1, 1476. He purchased the Manor of Battersea, in Surrey, and settled it on the Church of York. He died on the 19th of May, 1480, and his remains were interred at Southwell, in which place he had died. Tliomas Soot de Rotherham, a native of Eotherham in this County, was translated from Lincoln, September 3, 1480. He was a Cardinal of the Eoman Church, and was also for many years Lord High Chancellor of England to Edward IV., who left the cares of government very much to him. On the death of that King, he continued faithful to the Queen, for whioh cause he was imprisoned for some time by Eichard HI. Archbishop Rotheram was the second founder of Lincoln College, Oxford. He died of the plague at Cawood, on the 39th of May, 1500, and was interred in York Cathedral in a monument erected by himself. Thomas Savage was translated from London, April 12, 1501. He is said to have been more of a courtier and a sportsman than an ecclesiastic. He died at Cawood, September 2, 1507, and was buried at York. On the 23rd of June, 1831, the workmen employed at the Minster discovered in the north east aisle, a leaden coffin in which was the body of this prelate embalmed. Christopher Baynbridge, or Baynbrigge, was translated from Durham, Sept. 12, 1508. He was Henry the Eighth's Ambassador to the Court of Eome, where he was raised to the dignity of a Cardinal. He died and was buried at Eome, in July, 1514. Cardinal Wolsey. This celebrated personage so weU known in English history was the next Archbishop of York. Thomas Wolsey, or, as it was anciently called, Wuley, was born at Ipswich, in Suffolk, in March, 1471. His parents were in humble circumstances, and he is generally reviled as " the butcher's son." Of the occupation of his father nothing is known which can be depended upon as certain, but he could scarcely be considered as moving iu the lowest sphere, since, in his will, he devised to his wife aU his " lands and tenements," in one parish, and his "free and bond lands," in another. He must therefore have been a person of good property. After receiving the rudiments of his education at a country grammar school, Wolsey entered Magdalen CoUege, Oxford, in 1485, and at the early age of fifteen he was admitted to the degree of B.A., which gained him the appellation of "the 405 HISTOEY OP THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEK. boy bachelor.'" He soon obtained his degree of M.A., and was afterwards elected a Fellow of the College, and appointed Master of Magdalen School. In the year 1500 Wolsey left the University, having been presented to the Rectory of Lynington, in Somersetshire, by the Marquis of Dorset, whose three sons were under his tuition whUst he was Master of Magdalen School. His patron, the Marquis, died in 1501, and Wolsey was soon after appointed domestic-Chaplain to Dean, Archbishop of Canterbury. Upon the death of that prelate in 1508, he (Wolsey) became Chaplain to Sir John Nauphant, or Naufan, Treasurer of Calais, who took him in his retinue to that place; and upon his return to England strongly recommended him to King Henry vn., who appointed him one of his Chaplains, and sent him as Ambassador to the Court of Germany. In 1505 he was presented to the Eectory of Redgrave ; in 1508 he was made Dean of Lincoln, and in the year foUowing Prebendary of Walton Brinold, and Prebendary of Stow, in the same Cathe dral. Soon after the accession of Henry VIII., Wolsey, who had been that Monarch's sponsor, was taken into the royal service, and was by degrees entrusted with the highest offices of state. Eiches and dignities were now heaped upon him in great profusion. From 1511 to 1514 he was made Canon of Windsor ; first Prebendary, then Dean of York ; Dean of Hereford ; Precentor of St. Paul's; and Bishop of Tournay, in Flanders. In 1514 he became Bishop of I/incoln; and" on the 5th of August in the same year, Archbishop of York. In September, 1515, he was raised to the Cardinalate by Pope Leo. X., and on the resignation of Archbishop Warham, of Can terbury, in 1516, he was made Lord High ChanceUor of England. The splendour of his domestic establishments, and the dignified pageantry with which he uniformly appeared in public, raised the envy of his contemporaries. His extraordinary talent gave him such immense influence with his Sovereign, that it was he who might be said, directed the movement and the whole machinery of the State ; and during some years he was not only the richest, but likewise the most powerful subject in Europe. The princely UberaUty with which he encouraged the arts, and inculcated a love of letters at a period when learning was struggling against disrepute, has procured for him the admiration of posterity. That magnificent establishment, Christ Church CoUege, Oxford, or, as it has frequently been called " Cardinal's CoUege," was originally founded by him, and though he lost the favour of the King before its completion, it is still a lasting monument of his greatness and love of learning. He also es tablished a school, and made arrangements for the foundation of a College at Ipswich, his native town, which is honourable to him, both as showing his HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. 407 zeal in the matter of education, and that he was not ashamed of his humble birth. During the debate about the legality of the King's marriage with Catherine of Arragon, Wolsey espoused the cause of the injured Queen, and thereby incurred the displeasure of his Sovereign. With the Queen he feU from power ; and his immence influence and wealth exciting the jealousy of the King, he was attainted of high treason in 1529, and despoiled of aU his dignities, and aU his lands and goods were confiscated. However, on the 12th of February of the year following, the King granted him a remarkably fuU and complete pardon, and restored part of his plate and furniture, and also the revenues of his Archbishopric, with a command that he should henceforth reside in his Diocese of York. In the spring of the same year he retired to his Palace at Cawood, and though he spent the following summer in great hospitality, yet the six months he passed there were probably among the best spent in his Ufe. He visited the little country Churches, reforming abuses, and frequently preaching and administering the Sacraments, and such of the edifices as were in a ruinous condition, he ordered to be restored ; by these means he became very popular in his diocese. As he had never been formaUy enthroned, and, it is said, had never even visited his own Cathedral, he therefore fixed Nov. 7th, in the same year, for the ceremony to take place. Great preparations were made for it, and also for the banquet which was to be given at the Mansion House, and for which large presents of venison and game were made by the surrounding nobility. However, in the latter end of October, the Cardinal was suddenly and unexpectedly arrested on a charge of treason, by the Earl of Northumberland, and on his way to London, whither he was being conveyed as a prisoner, he was seized with dysentery, and died at the Abbey of Leicester, where he had taken shelter, on the 39th of No vember, 1580, in the fiftieth year of his age. His body was buried in St. Mary's Chapel, within the precincts of the Abbey Church, and neither tomb, nor stone, nor mound, marks his last resting place. A black marble sar cophagus made by his order, and probably designed as the depository of his own remains, surmounts the tomb of Nelson, in the crypt of St. Paul's Cathedral, London. And now that the mists of prejudice and bigotry, in which our forefathers groped their way in the world of letters, are dispelled, and the pages of Hume and Burnet alone are not considered infaUible guides ; now that " that period of stereotyped historical imposture " has for ever passed away, we may study the true character of this remarkable prelate, in the works of other and less prejudiced historians. "Many of the calumnious stories which 408 HISTOEY OP THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEE. have come down to us," says a recent writer, " are no doubt to be attributed to the malignancy of the Cardinal's enemies, whose jealousy made them most unscruplous as to the means which they employed to gratify their revenge." And the same writer, after referring to the integrity of Wolsey, adds, " but priests and prelates are men, not angels ; and those who know anything of the frailty of our common human humanity, wUl not be disposed to judge harshly of one who fiUed a position of such exceeding difficulty, and who has so many claims to our gratitude and respect. The combination of sacred and temporal offices in one person (however advantageous in many respects, or desirable at that time), was probably in itself an occasion of much diffi culty; for it is obvious that the two classes of duties — to God and the Church on the one hand, and the King and state on the other — must often clash and seem irreconcileable." Cavendish, in his Life of the Cardinal of York, teUs us that " he kept a noble house, where was both plenty of meat and drink for all comers, and also much alms given at the gate to the poor. He used much charity and cle mency amongst his tenants," he continues, "for he was very much familiar among all persons, and glad at any time when he might do them good." Again, he tells us that the Cardinal heard two masses every day before pro ceeding to Westminster HaU as Lord ChanceUor, besides reciting his office with one of his chaplains ; and, he adds, that " however weighty business he had on hand, he never went to bed with so much as a single collect of his office unsaid." In the Court of Chancery, according to this author, he "judged every one according to their merits and deserts." "Most com monly," says Cavendish, in another place, " he would travel every Sunday to some poor parish Church, and would there say his Divine Office, and either say or hear mass, and cause one of his chaplains to preach the word of God unto the people. And that done, he would dine in some honest house in the town, where should be distributed to the people a great alms of meat and drink ; or of money to supply the want of meat, if the numbers of the poor did so exceed in necessity. And thus with other good deeds practising and exercising himself during his abode there, as making of love days and agreements between party and party being at variance, he daily frequented himself thereabouts." There would be nothing extraordinary in aU this, had Wolsey been nothing more than an ordinary Bishop ; and in forming a proper estimate of his character, we ought to bear in mind that he was courted by the greatest European Monarchs who sought the friendship and aUiance of England ; that his train, on occasions of state, consisted of not less than five hundred servants, amongst whom were ten lords, fifteen HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OP' YOEK, 409 knights, and forty esquires ; that when he celebrated Divine Service pontifi- cally, Dukes and Earls were amongst his lay attendants at the altar, and the greatest nobles esteemed it an honour to assist at these celebrations. In one of the despatches of the Venetian Ambassador, Sebastian Guistitnan, who represented the Doge at the Court of Henry VIII., the Ambassador says, " The ChanceUor" meaning Wolsey " is pensive, and has the reputation of being extremely just. He favours the people exceedingly, and,. especially the poor — hearing their suits, and seeking to despatch them instantly. He also makes the lawyers plead gratis for all paupers." M. Audin in his Life of Henry VIH., says of the Cardinal, " he had aU the qualities necessary for a statesman ; an instinctive idea of business ; an acquaintance with men and things; the art of turning passing events to his advantage. He raised poUtics to the standard of a science, and his school survived him ; he applied intuitively to diplomacy all those govermental theories that Machiavel has coUected in his ' Prince.' He was one of the first to perceive that England —Queen of the Seas — might be mistress of the world. He augmented the English Navy, and it was during the time of his ministry, that a fleet sailed from the Thames in search of unknown lands. He was a great patron of literature, and nearly all the learned men of his day were under his protection. He invited Vivos to England ; offered a professor's chair to Erasmus ; and made Pace's fortune. The literary men had cause to deplore his fall and death. One alone had the dastardly courage to contemn his memory, and that was the migrateful Erasmus. What he did for Oxford remains reflecting glory upon England. Wolsey had studied architecture, and drew the designs of Hampton Court with his own hand." The foUowing is Guizot's portrait of our Cardinal Archbishop : — " If it be true that no man by less effort ever attained so much dignity as Cardinal Wolsey, few have been thrown down ffom so great a height under the im putation of smaUer crimes. He was undoubtedly a character of the most splendid class. Haughty, ambitious, masterly, and magnificent, he felt him self formed for superiority; and his conduct, if not always judicious, was uniformly great. His exterior was dignified, his demeanour courtly, his discernment rapid, his eloquence commanding, and his comprehension vast and prospective. The number, variety, and magnitude of his public trusts, . in all of which he was eminently distinguished, are proofs of the elastic powers of his mind, and the versatility of his talents for business. His avidity to amass wealth was contrasted with an expenditure so generous, that it lost the name of avarice, and deserved to be dignified with that of ambition. His ostentation was so richly blended with munificence and hospitaUty, that 3 a 410 HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. it ought to be ascribed rather to a love of distinction than to vanity ; and his pride was so nearly aUied to honour and justice, that it seemed to be essential to his accomplishments, as a statesman. AU his undertakings showed the combining and foreseeing faculties of his genius. The League of London was the grand fundamental charter by which the European nations recovered their independence from the Pope ; and the change in the aUiance of England after the battle of Pavia, was one of those rare and bold measures whioh may divide the opinion of the world as to their wisdom, but must command-its admiration. The Cardinal's system for the reformation of the clergy was singularly Uberal in policy; for statesmen are often, by official necessity, rather the protectors than the enemies of corruption. Therefore, whether estimated by his natural endowments, his fortune, or his designs, Cardinal Wolsey must be considered as one of those great occasional men who, at distant intervals, suddenly appear surprising the world by their movements and their splendour ; and who, having agitated and altered the regular frame of society by their influence, are commemorated as the epochal characters of history." Edward Lee, December 10th, 1531. — This prelate, who was Lord President of the North, was seized by the insurgents concerned in the PUgrimage of Grace, and obUged to take an oath of fidelity to them ; but he was afterwards pardoned for this offence. He died on the 13th of September, 1544, and was buried in York. Robert Holgate, who was translated from Llandaff, was a monk favourable to the Eeformation, and consequently was patronized by Henry VIH. ; but in the reign of Queen Mary he was committed to the Tower. He died in obscurity at Hemsworth, near Pontefract, in 1553. He had been some time Lord President of the North, and was the founder of the Grammar School in Ogleforth, York, called by his name. Nicholas Heath was translated from Worcester, February 19th, 1555. He was a learned prelate, to whose exertions the See of York is indebted for the recovery of a great part of its present revenues. Being a CathoUc, he was paronized by Queen Mary, but was deprived of his dignity by Queen Eliza beth, in 1558 ; who, however, aUowed him to retire to his estate at Cobham, in Surrey, where he died, and was buried. He had been Lord High Chan ceUor of England. Thomas Young, the first Protestant Archbishop of York, was Lord Presi dent of the North, and was translated from St. Davids on the 25 th of Feb ruary, 1561. " A disgraceful character,'' writes AUen, " who took down the HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. 411 great haU in the Palace at York, for the sake of the lead which covered it." He died at Sheffield, June 26th, 1568, and was buried at York. Edmund Grindall, the next prelate, was a native of Hensingham, near Whitehaven. He was translated from London, June 9th, 1570, and advanced to Canterbury in 1576. He founded and endowed a Grammar School at St. Bees, Cumberland, in 1588 ; and he died on the 6th of July in the same year, and was buried in the Chancel of Croydon Church. Edwin Sandys, or Sands, was a native of St. Bees, and probably educated at the Grammar School just noticed. He was author of Europce Syeculum, and founder of Hawkshead School. He was translated from London, Jan uary 25th, 1577; died August 8th, 1588, and was buried at SouthweU. Archbishop Sandys had been imprisoned for preaching in defence of Lady Jane Grey's title to the throne. John Piers was translated from Salisbury, February 27th, 1558. He died at Bishopthorpe on the 28th of September, 1594, and was buried at York. Matthew Hutton, a man of humble origin, but of great merit, was trans lated from Durham, March 24th, 1594. He died January 15th, 1606, and was interred at York. Tobias MattJiew was translated from Durham, March 24th, 1594. He died January 15th, 1628, and was interred at York. This prelate was one of the most eloquent preachers of his day, and being a great wit, was a favourite at the Court of both Elizabeth and James I. He kept an account of all the, sermons he preached, by which it appears that while Dean of Durham, he preached 721 sermons ; when Bishop of Durham, 560 ; and when Arch bishop of York, 731 ; in aU, no less then 1,993 sermons after he had become a dignitary of the Church. George Montaigne, or Mountain, was the son of a small farmer at Cawood, who rose to be successively Bishop of London, and Durham, and Archbishop of York ; to the latter See he was elected June 6th, 1628, and enthroned October 4th. " But," says FuUer, " he was scarce warm in his Church, than cold in his coffin," for he died November 6th, of the same year, at Cawood, the place of his nativity, and was buried there.* * It, is related that when the See of York became vacant, Charles I. had many claimants for it, but was undivided respecting its disposal, and sought the advice of Mountain (then Bishop of Durham) in his difficulty. The Bishop modestly answered that if his Majesty had faith Uke a grain of mustard seed, he would say to this Mountain be thou removed into yonder Sea, and it would obey. The King repUed that miracles had ceased, and asked what had faith to do in this point? To convince your Majesty to the contrary, said the Bishop, be only pleased to say to this Mountain (pointing to him- 413 HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEK. Samuel Harsnett was translated from Norwich, AprU 23rd, 1639; died May 18th, 1631 ; and was interred at ChigweU, in Essex, where he had died. Richard NeiU, a prelate of humble origin, was translated from Winchester, AprU 16th, 1633. He died on the 31st of October, 1640, and was buried at York. John Williams was translated from Lincoln, June 37th, 1642. WhUst he fiUed the latter See he wrote a book caUed " The Holy Table,'' which gave so much offence to Archbishop Laud, that he (Laud) commenced a prose cution against him, and he was sentenced to a term of imprisonment, in the Tower, and to pay a fine of £10,000. He was liberated in 1640, and after receiving the Archbishopric of York, he was again imprisoned in the Tower, along with nine other prelates, by order of the Long ParUament, for a cause which is already stated at page 324 of this volume. From being a strenuous Royalist, he became a zealous Parliamentarian, and commanded at the Siege of Abergavenny, in South Wales, and reduced that fortress to the obedience of Parliament. " He wiU always be meniorable in English history," says Lord CampbeU, " as the last of a long line of eminent ecclesiastics, who, with rare intervals, held for many centuries the highest judicial office in the Kingdom, and exercised a powerful influence over the destinies of the nation.* Archbishop WiUiams died on the anniversary of his birth the SSth of March, 1650, aged 68, and' was buried at Llandegay, about two jniles from Bangor. For ten years during the Commonwealth this See was vacant, but mon archy and episcopacy were again raised to great splendour after the Resto ration. All authority was acknowledged to be vested in the King ; and the Bishops were aUowed to resume their seats in the House of Peers. In 1661 an Act of Uniformity was passed, which required every Cl6;Fgyman who had not received episcopal ordination, to be ordained, and to declare his as sent to everything contained in the Book of Common Prayer, and to take the canonical oath of obedience ; and such as refused to conform to the precepts of this aot, were ipsofaeto deprived. Accepted Frewen, was translated from Coventry and Lichfield, to York, October 11th, 1660. This prelate seems to have been somewhat eccentric, for he Uved in a state of ceUbacy, and hia horror of the "fair sex" was so self), be thou removed into yonder See (aUuding to the See of York), and I am sure your M^esty wiU forthwith be obeyed. The King, smUing, took the hint, and sM, then Mountain I wUl remqve thee ; and he accordingly sent him down Lord Archbishop. • Lord CampbeU's Lives of the Lord ChanceUors, vol. U., p. 504. HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OF YOEK. 413 great that he would not even have a female servant in his house. He died on the 38th of March, 1664, and was buried at York. Richard Steme was translated from the See of CarUsle, June 10th, 1664. He was born at Mansfield, in Nottinghamshire, and was a noted Royalist. He had been Chaplain to Archbishop Laud, whom he attended at the fatal scaffold ; and he was himself a prisoner in the Tower for his adherence to the royal cause. He was the author of a Treatise on Logic, and was one of the translators of the Polyglot Bible, and he has been suspected of being the author of " The Whole Duty of Man." He died June 18,th, 1683, and was buried at York. John Dolben, the next Archbishop, had been a soldier in his early days, and served as an ensign at the battle of Marston Moor, where he was dan gerously wounded by a musket baU. He died at York, where he was buried, on the 11th of April, 1686. The See then remained vacant for more than two years. Thomas Lamplugh, a staunch supporter of the doctrines of the Church of England, and a Uberal benefactor to the Cathedral, was translated from Exeter, December 19th, 1688; died May 5th, 1691; and his remains were interred at York. John Sharp, 1691.^This prelate distinguished himself by his strong oppo sition to the Eoman Catholic predilections of James II., whereby he became very unpopular at Court. He was the father of GranviUe Sharp. He died February 2nd, 1713, and was the last Archbishop interred in the Cathedral of York. Sir WUUam Dawes, a most exemplary prelate, was translated from the See of Chester, March 24th,, 1714 ; he died April 80th, 1734, and was interred at the CoUege at Cambridge, called Catherine HaU. Lancelot BlacMmm was translated from Exeter, December 10th, 1734; he died in 1748, and was buried in St. Margaret's Church, Westminster. Thomas Herring, one of the most noted prelates of his time, was translated from the See of Bangor, April 38th, 1743. At the breaking out of the re beUion in 1745, he took an active part in arousing the country against the claims of the Pretender, and by his eloquent appeals the sum of £40,000., was soon raised for this purpose. For these services he was advanced to the Arehbishopric of Canterbury in 1747. He died March 13th, 1757, and was buried at Croydon. Matthew Hutton was Ukewise, translated from Bangor, December 39th, 1747, and advanced to Canterbury in 1757. He died March 19tb, 1758, and was buried at Lambeth. 414 HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEK. John Gilbert was translated from SaUsbury, May 38th, 1757; and died in 1761. Bobert Hay Drummond was translated from Salisbury, November 11th, 1761 ; died December 10th, 1776, and was buried at Bishopthorpe. William Markham, the next prelate, was a native of Ireland, and was edu cated at Westminster School, of which School he was afterwards Head Master. In 1759 he was appointed Prebendary of Durham ; in 1765, Dean of Rochester ; in 1767, Dean of Christ Church ; in 1771 he was consecrated Bishop of Chester, and was also appointed Preceptor to the Prince of Wales, afterwards George IV. ; and in 1777 he was translated to the See of York. He died on the 8rd of November, 1807, aged 89, after fiUing this See for thirty years, and was buried in Westminster Abbey. The Hon. Edward Venables Vernon Harcourt, LL.D., the late prelate, and sixth son of George, Lord Vernon, was born on the 10th of October, 1757 ; educated at Westminster School, and afterwards removed to Christ Church, Oxford. He was subsequently FeUow of AU Souls' CoUege, Chaplain to the King, Prebendary of Gloucester, and Canon of Christ Church. In 1791 he was appointed to the Bishopric of Carlisle, and was translated to the See of York in January, 1808. He died at his Palace, Bishopthorpe, on the 5th of November, 1847, in the 91st year of his age, and his body was buried at Nuneham Courtney, near Oxford, the family seat of his ancestors. Thomas Musgrave, D.D., the present distinguished Archbishop of York, is son of Mr. W. Peete Musgrave, a wooUen draper, &c., in Cambridge. He was born in Cambridge, in 1788 ; became a student of Trinity CoUege, Cam bridge, in 1806 ; graduated fourteenth wrangler, in 1810 ; and was elected FeUow of his CoUege, which he held tUl 1887. He proceeded M.A., in 1813 ; became Lord Almoner's Professor of Arabic in 1831 ; was senior Proctor in 1831 ; was Incumbent of St. Mary the Great, in Cambridge, and has also been bursar of his CoUege. He was consecrated Bishop of Hereford in 1837 ; was translated to York in 1847, and enthroned in the Cathedral of that City, on the 18th January, 1848.* His Grace is visitor of Queen's CoUege, Oxford, • The popular American writer, Ealph Waldo Emerson, who appears to have been in the Cathedral when Archbishop Musgrave was enthroned, says, in his English Traits — " In York Minster, on the day of the enthronization of the new Archbishop, I heard the service of evening prayer read and chanted by the choir. It was strange to hear the pretty pastoral of the bethrothal of Eebecca and Isaac, in the morning of the world, read with circumstantiality in York Minster, on the 13th January, 1848, to the decorous EngUsh audience, just fresh from The Times newspaper and their wine ; and listening with all the devotion of national pride. That was binding old and new to some purpose. The reverence of the Scriptures is an element of civiUzation, for thus HISTOEY OF THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEK. 416 Governor of the Charter House, and of Queen's College, London, and Elector of St. Augustine's College, Canterbury. Seat — Bishopthorpe Palace, near York. Tovm Residence — 41, Belgrave Square. The Caedinal of Yoek. — The last qf the Stuarts. — This exalted digni tary was Henry Benedict Stuart, brother of the Young Pretender, Charles Edward Stuart, and the last in a direct line of the Royal House of Stuart. He was born at Rome on the 36th of March, 1725 ; and became a priest of the Catholic Church, and was eventually raised to the dignity of the Cardinal of York. He was not ambitious, but rather a quiet ease-loving churchman. He lived in tranquiUty at Rome for nearly fifty years, but in 1798, when French bayonets drove Pope Pius VI. from the Pontifical chair, Henry Stuart fle.d from his splendid residences at Eome and Frascati. His days, afterwards, were days of want, his only means of subsistence being the produce of a few articles of silver plate, which he snatched away from the ruin of his property. When George TTL. was informed of the Cardinal Duke's poverty and pitiable situation, he ordered Lord Milton to make a remittance of £3;000., with an intimation that the Cardinal might draw for £3,000. more in the foUowing J'uly. It was also made known to the Cardinal that an annuity of £4,000. was at his service, so long as circum stances required it. He was spared seven years to enjoy this munificent pension, and died at Eome, in 1807, in the eighty-third year of his age. C]^^ Catl^^ka:! ai gxrrk. We have already shown that Christianity was re-introduced into North umbria, by Paulinus, a Eoman Missionary, about the year 625 ; that Edwin the Saxon Monaach of that ancient Kingdom was converted by him, and that the King and his whole Court were baptised by him at York, in a.d. 637. The chief residence of Edwin was at York, but at so low an ebb was the Christian reUgion, that there was not found a Temple within his metropolis has the history of the world been preserved, and is preserved. Here in England every day a chapter of Genesis, and a leader in Ihe Times. Another part of the same service was not insignificant. Handel's Coronation Anthem, ' God save the King,' was played by Dr. Camidge, on the organ, with subUme effect. The Minster and the music were made for each other,'' 416 HISTOEY OP THE AECHDIOCESE OP YOEK. suitable for the performance of the ceremony of public baptism. A small wooden Chapel or Oratory was erected for the occasion, on -the site of the present glorious fane, which was dedicated to God under the invocation of St. Peter, and in this primitive buUding the solemn ceremony was performed.* The ceremony over, the prelate, we are told by Bede, took care to acquaint his joyal convert, that since he had become a Christian he ought to build a house of prayer more suitable to the divinity he now adored ; and by the Bishop's direction he began to erect a Church of stone, in the midst of which was enclosed the above-mentioned Oratory .f But Edwin was not permitted to see the completion of the edifice which he had thus piously begun ; for scarcely were the walls raised when he was slain in battle at Hatfield, near Doncaster, in 683, and PauUnus retired to the south." (See pages 80 and 888). Eanfrid, the son of Edwin's predecessor, then returned from exile, and on succeeding to the throne of Bemicia, was necessarUy involved in the war against CadwaUon, by whom he was basely slain at York, when, with only twelve foUowers, he visited the British King at that City to sue for peace. Oswald, a zealous Christian King, the brother of Eanfrid, having slain CadwaUon, and estabUshed his own authority, undertook to complete the buUding of the Church at York, which he had no sooner finished in 649, than he was kiUed by Penda, the Pagan King of Mercia, and the newly- erected edifice was soon after severely injured by the invasions of neighbouring savage tribes. Drake says, that Oswald recommenced the buUding about 633, -but this date is evidently too early, as Edwin was kiUed in 633, and Oswald did not commence his actual reign tiU a year afterwards. Eddius, who wrote about the year 720, teUs us that at that date the building was in ruins; that the timbers of the roof were rotten, the waUs decayed, the windows destitute of glass, or other material, whereby the interior was ex posed to the injuries of the weather, and that the birds were the undisturbed inhabitants of the ruined structure. In this desolate condition it was found by Archbishop WUfrid, who, about the year 674, restored it to its former grandeur. He strengthened the waUs, renewed the wood work of the roof, covered it with lead, and glazed the windows.^ This eminent prelate and » Gent says, that this Oratory was erected on the site of a Pagan Temple dedicated to BeUona or Diana. + Bede's Hist. Eccl., Ub. ii., ch. 14. X This is one of the first instances recorded of glass windows in this country. The ¦windows had previously derived their Ught from tiransparency of Unen, or of boards pierced -with many holes. WUfrid borrowed the custom of fiUing the windows with glass from the Churches of Borne, whioh he had several times visited. HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 417 architect founded and buUt the Churches of Hexham and Eipon, and from their magnitude and decoration, naturaUy excited the admiration and praises of contemporary writers. Bede informs us that the Cathedral of York was a square stone structure dedicated to St. Peter, the feast of which dedication was long held here annually, with great solemnity, on the first day of October, and the seven foUowing days ; but Torre tells us that " the order for making this a double* festival was not issued till the year 1642." The Cathedral stood and flou rished with little alteration for many years, in the course of which the valuable library of Archbishop Egbert was bestowed upon it. In 741 the Church was almost if not completely destroyed by fire, and a new fabric was immediately begun by Archbishop Egbert, who was assisted by the advice of the celebrated Alcuin. Archbishop Albert, assisted by Eanbald, who succeeded him, com pleted the work in the most magnificent Saxon style. The latter prelate did not live long to enjoy the beautiful structure he had finished, for he died in November, 781, in ten days after its consecration. Alcuin describes the fabric as of considerable height, supported by columns and arches, covered by a vaulted roof, -and provided with large windows. It had also porticoes and galleries, and thirty altars, the latter of which were adorned with various ornaments.f • A Double is a festival upon which the Antiphons are repeated entire, both before and after the psalms in the Divine Office. , Origin of Christian Festivals. — ^In the first ages of Christianity the Apostles and their successors were obUged to destroy Paganism to the last stone, and buUd aU things from the very foundation. The heathens had their calendar; the name of some deity, some feast, seasons of rejoicing or mourning, occupied its year ; and the heathens were de lighted with their festivals. It was no trifling work to begin by blotting out the calendar of civUized nations, without being prepared to fiU it with other memorials equaUy inter esting. The Jews too had their calendar, but this for the greater part was aboUshed, for of what importance any longer to the Church were the feast of Tabernacles, of Purifi- cation, and others, occurring every month, A blank volume was in the Apostle's hands and the duty of the early Church was to fill it up, that the Christian world might have by degrees, the whole year filled-with suggestions useful to the Christian soul. They begun immediately to fiU up the blank calendar with subjects dear to every Christian heart, viz : — the great festivals of Our Lord — his Birth, Cracifixion, Eesurrection As. cension and the Coming of the Holy Ghost. After the Apostles had passed from earth certain days were set apart to praise God for their triumphs, and to honour them ia various ways, as weU as to implore their intercession ; and age after age festivals were appointed in honour of Christian Martyrs and Confessors, and holy personages. Thus was our calendar formed. After the Eeformation the vacancies in the calendar of the Church of England were filled up by poUtical or social occurrences. + Britten's York Cathedral, p. 28. 3 H 418 HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAIi OF YOEK. It may appear surprising that these Archbishops were well skiUed in architecture, but this surprise will vanish when we reflect that it was cus tomary for the monks and ecclesiastics in those days to study the science of architecture, and build their own Abbeys, Cathedrals, and Churches. In the year 1069, as we have already seen at page 119 of this volume, the native inhabitants, aided by the Danes, in their attempt to 'throw off the yoke of the Conqueror, set fire to the suburbs, which spreading to the City, communicated to the Cathedral, and involved them aU in one common ruin, WilUam, who on entering the City, found the Church in ruins, seized its revenues, and expelled the Canons from their staUs. He, however, soon afterwards made Thomas, his Chaplain and Treasurer, Archbishop of the Province, and restored the revenues, &c., to the Church. By this prelate the Cathedral was soon restored ; and he afterwards rebuUt it on a larger scale, in the Norman style, about the year 1080. But its prosperity was of short duration, for it shared a simUar fate to his predecessor, and was partly burnt down by an accidental fire in 1137. Efforts were soon after made to further the restoration of the ruined Cathedral, and Joceline, Bishop of Sarum, granted an Indulgence of forty days, or a remission of forty days canonical penance, to penitents who contributed towards it.* StiU but little appears to have been effected for more than forty years, when Archbishop » An Indulgence, according to the definition of the CathoUc Church (and we must allow that she ought to be the best judge of her own doctrine) , is not the pardon of any sin, much less is it a licence to commit sin ; it is merely a relaxation of the temporal punishment that is due to sin, after its guilt and the eternal punishment due to that guUt is remitted by sincere repentance and humble confession. In other words, it is a free release from the external satisfactory works of penance, in consideration of the penitent's internal fervour. The ancient discipline of the Church obUged great sinners, when they repented, to perform certain penances for certain lengths of time, according to the nature and number of their transgressions ; some were obHged to fast upon one meal each day, or recite certain prayers, or perform some other good works, for a number of days, months, or years, and some great public sinners were obUged to perform such works during the term of their natural.Uves. Now an indulgence of forty days, or one hundred days, or of a year, or of seven years, is a free release or remission of as much of the temporal punishment due to sin, as would be satisfled by the performance of the ancient canonical penances for either of these periods. In a word, it is a commutation of the canonical penances for prayers, alms deeds, or other good works— a substitution of one satisfaction for another— of a longer penance for a shorter, hence it is styled an indulgence or favour done to the penitent. Thus an iudnlgence has nothing to do with the pardon of sin, nor with the eternal punishments due to sin, but only with that debt of temporal penance which the Church maintains the sinner has to discharge after the eternal guilt of his sin is forgiven. Indulgences are of two kinds— portiaZ and plenary— a partial indulgence is explained above ; and a plenary indulgence is a re mission of the whole of the debt of temporal punishment due to the siu of the penitent. HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 419 Roger rebuilt the choir about the year 1171, in the Norman style, to cor respond with the rest of the building. Ecclesiastical Architecture. Having now arrived at the period when the fabric of the Cathedral, as it at present stands, was commenced, we shall here glance briefly at the manner of buUding and styles of architecture applied in the construction of ancient Churches in this country. The style of Church building which prevailed in Britain previous to the Norman Conquest is commonly designated the Saxon, or Anglo-Saxon. The primitive Churches of the Anglo-Saxons were usually oblong buildings without the elevation of any one part to a greater altitude than the rest, but generaUy terminating in a semicircle at the east end, like the Basilicse, or Courts of Justice in the great Cities in the Eoman Empire. From the re mains of the Saxon Church of Ely, which was built under the direction of St. Wilfrid, Archbishop of York, the Eev. J. Bentham found that it was an oblong building of two stories, with aisles on each side, but without tower or transept, and .divided by a waU into two parts, which communicated with each other by a low arched opening. The pUlars which supported it were alternately circular and octagonal; the arches circular, and highly orna mented with the characteristic decorations of the Saxon style. When towers were first buUt they rose Uttle higher than the roof, and, according to Grose, served principally as lanterns for the admission of light. These stately ad juncts were first built at the west end of the Churches, but in after times they were erected in different parts of the fabric, and they had under them crypts or undercrofts, used sometimes as Chapels and burial places, and also for the preservation of relics and other articles esteemed valuable by the ecclesiastics of those times. One of the objects for which the towers of Churches were constructed was to exhibit a Ught to the benighted traveUer on dark nights. Dr. Lingard thinks that the early towers were distinct from the Church. There were upper crofts in those early Churches, as well as under crofts — the space between the ceiling and the pitched roof. The vestments, sacred vessels, and sometimes the valuables of the inhabitants, were lodged in the upper crofts and towers of the Churches, in times of danger, as was the case during the terrible incursions of the Danes; and during such times the Churches were in reality parochial fortresses.- The entrances into the upper crofts being by narrow stairs or ladders, through stone trap doors, the plun derers did not easily reach them, and hence they were invaluable as places of security. The windows of the Saxon Churches were round headed, the arches circular, and the piUars were generaUy round and massy with regular Capitals. 430 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. The era of the Anglo-Norman Architecture is stated to have extended from the period of the Conquest to the death of King Stephen in 1154. The general plan of the latest Saxon and earliest Norman Churches was the same, but the Norman Churches were of far greater magnificence than the Saxon Churches. The chief entrance was at the west end of the nave, and at the upper end of the nave was a cross or transept, and beyond that, east ward, was the choir or chancel.* Most of the Abbey Churches, and many of the parochial Churches, were either whoUy rebuUt, or greatly improved and enlarged in about a century after the Norman Conquest. Large towers or steeples were placed on four arches on the centre of Conventual. Churches, about that time, and the length of the cross or transept, from north to south, was commonly equal to about one-half of the length of the whole fabric from east to west. The Norman towers were covered as platforms, with battle ments, or plain parapet waUs. The circular arches, sometimes with zig-zag sculpture, and always with massive circular pillars, and thick waUs, were continued to the end of the reign of Henry I. (1134). The Gothic Style of Architecture is generally arranged into three divisions, the Early EngUsh, the Decorated, and the Perpendicular. The Early Pointed or Early English style prevailed during a period of 118 years, from the reign of Henry II. (1189) to the end of the reign of Edward I. (1807). It is distinguished by pointed arches, and long narrow lancet-headed win dows without muUions ; and a peculiar ornament, which, from its resem blance to the teeth of a shark, is called the toothed ornament. In the latter part of the twelfth century, the short solid columns and semicircular arches were stiU often retained, and mixed with the pointed arches ; but in the thirteenth century pointed arches were generally adopted, and prominent buttresses, ending in spires or pinnacles, were added to the exterior waUs. Dr. Whitaker, in his History of Craven, teUs us that in the struggle between the Norman and Early Gothic styles, which took place in the reign of King Stephen, it is not uncommon to find in Churches of that period, massy co lumns, and pointed arches, aud round-headed doors and windows. The second division of the Gothic style is called the Decorated English, and reached to the end of the reign of Edward IH., in 1377, and perhaps from ten to fifteen years longer — somewhere about seventy years altogether. This style is distinguished by its large windows, with pointed arches, divided by muUions, and the tracery in flowing lines forming circles, arches, and * " Chancel, eanceUus, seemeth properly to be so caUed, a canceUis, from the lattice work partition between the quire and the body of the Church, so framed as to separate the one from the other, but not to intercept the sight." Burn's Eccles. Law, vol. i. p. 342. HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 421 other figures not running perpendicularly; its ornaments numerous, and very deUcately carved. Perpendicular English is the term by which the third division of Gothic architecture is known. This style appears to have been in use, though much debased, even as far as to 1630, or 1640, but only in additions ; probably the latest whole building in this style is not later than the time of Henry VIIL The name clearly designates this style, for the muUions of the win dows, and the ornamental paneUings run in perpendicular lines, and form a complete distinction from the Decorated or Early English styles. The peesent Minstbe. — In the year 1215 the munificent Archbishop Walter de Grey came to the Archiepiscopal throne, and finding his Church inferior in magnificence to many of the ecclesiastical edifices of the day, he determined to rebuild it on a larger and grander scale, and commenced accordingly with the present South Transept, which appears to have been completed during his life time. He prosecuted his design with much energy, giving largely from his own funds towards it, granting indulgences to peni tents, and urging the faithful to aid him in his efforts to beautify the structure. In 1260 John le Romayne, Treasurer of the Cathedral, completed the erection of the North Transept. He also raised a handsome bell tower in the place now occupied by the great lantern tower. The old Norman nave, not now corresponding with the beautiful early English transepts, it was deter mined that it should be pulled down ; and Archbishop Eomayne, son of the above-named Treasurer, personally laid the foundation of the present Nave, with great solemnity, on the 7th of April, 1291. The materials for building the nave (and for the whole of the Church, according to some authorities), were contributed by Eobert de Vavasour, from St. Peter's quarry on his estate near Tadeaster ;* and by WiUiam de Percy, of Bolton, from his woods at * There appears to be no doubt that the stone was taken from the quarries of Hazle- wood, " in proof whereof, and there is good evidence of it in the hands of Vavasore, out of a Uttle quarry within the manor of Hasslewood hath been taken the Cathedral Church of York, the Minsters of Howden, Selby, Beverley, &c." — Appendix to Leland, vol. iu., Hearne's edit., p. 103. Camden sa,ys, that "near Hesslewood, within twelve miles of York, Ueth a most famous quarry of stone, called Peter's Post, for that with the stones hewed out of it, by the Uberal grant of the Vavasors, that stately and sumptuous church of St, Peter's at York wasre-edify'd," It appears by an old deed that Robert le Vavasour granted to God, St. Peter, and the Church of York, for the health of his own soul, and the souls of his wife Julian, and his ancestors, fuU and free use of his quarry near Tadeaster in Thevedale, with liberty to take and carry thence a sufficient quantity of stone for the fabric of this Church, as oft as they had need to repair, re-edify, or enlarge the same. Likewise Robert de Percy, 439 HISTOEY OF the CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. that place. The memory of the beneficence of each is preserved by statues erected at the western end of the building, and in other memorials in the interior of the Church. Archbishop WiUiam de Melton was the next founder. In 1338 he com pleted the West Front. For this purpose he granted an indulgence of forty days, " to all such weU disposed people as pleased to extend their charitable contributions towards the buUding of the late prostrate fabric, whereby he might be the better enabled to finish so noble a structure then newly began," Besides the large contributions which he was certain to receive by means of this indulgence, it is said that he expended a large sum out of his own money, and the other prelates also contributed larg'ely out of their own private for tunes. But the great benefactor of the Cathedral was Archbishop Thoresby. That prelate seeing that the Norman Choir built by Archbishop Eoger did not harmonize with the other parts of the Church, and considering that there was no place in the Church " where our Lady's mass, the glorious mother of God, could decently be celebrated," determined to rebuild the east end, or choir ; and thereby finishing the whole fabric in the same style of architec ture as well as magnificence. Accordingly aU the machinery for raising public contributions by the Church was put in motion, and 'tis said that the Archbishop himself devoted of his own income about £3,400., or £300. an nually — a large sum in those days — in pursuance of the work. He also puUed down the Archiepiscopal Mansion of Sherburn HaU, and supplied the materials for the use of the Minster. Torre says, that letters mandatory, dated Festo. S. Mich. Anno. 1355, were likewise issued from the Chapter of York, directed to all Eectors, Vicars, and Parochial Chaplains, within the respective prebends, dignity, and the community of the Church, enjoining them by virtue of their canonical obedience, and under pain of the greater excommunication, to suffer their collectors in their Ohapelries and parishes to ask and gather the charitable alms of the people, for the use of the fabric of this Church. Accordingly the first stone of the New Choir was laid by the Archbishop at the east end, on the 19th of July, 1361. The great Uberality of Thoresby did not surpass the generosity of the public ; the donations continued to in crease, tiU the Archbishop found himself enabled not only to rebuild the choir, but also to take down the central steeple erected by John le Eomayne, Lord of Boulton, granted to John, Archbishop of York, free Uberty for the mariners or carters to carry the fabric stone from Tadeaster, either by land or water, through his grounds lying along the river Quarfe (Wharfe), or up that river to York ; and also his wood at Boulton, for roofiing the new buUding. HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. 493 which was Ukewise thought inferior to the rest of the edifice, and to erect in its place the present elegant lantern tower. Walter Skirlaw, Prebendary of Fenton, Archdeacon of the East Eiding, and afterwards Bishop of Durham,* gave a very munificent donation for the latter purpose. The old steeple was accordingly taken down in 1870, and the erection of the present majestic Central Tower begun ; but nearly eight years elapsed before it was finaUy completed.-]- According to Drake the present towers at the west end appear to have been raised by John de Birmingham, Treasurer of the Church, about the year 1402. J The rest of the structure was finished between 1405, when Arch bishop Bowett (whose arms appear in the sculpture, and on the window) was appointed to the See, and 1426, when the Dean and Chapter granted, out of their revenues, a full tenth to the use of the fabric then newly built.§ In addition to the means already mentioned for raising the supplies from time to time, for erecting the Cathedral, bulls apostolical, granting indulgences, were issued by Popes Innocent VI. and Urban V. and VL, and on one of these occasions a kind of income tax, of five per cent,, was imposed on eccle siastical benefices, for three years, for the necessary repairs and re-edifications. The building now used as a vestry was anciently a Chapel, founded by Archbishop de la Zouche about the year 1350,|| who intended it for the place of his interment, but he died before it was finished. The original building was demolished at the time of the new erection of the choir, and the present * From Anthony A'Wood's History of the University of Oxford, we leam the foUowing particulars of this prelate : — He was the son of a sieve-maker, at Skirlaw, in Holderness, Yorkshire, At an early age he ran away from his father's house, and came to Oxford, where he partook of WUUam of Durham's benefaction in University CoUege, aud distin guished himself so much by his learning, that he rose to be made successively Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, Wells, and Durham, It is added that his parents were ignorant of his fate tiU he was settled at Durham, when he sent his steward to SMrlaw to bring them to him, if they were alive, and then made a provision for them. He appears, continues Wood, to have been an eminent architect, as the centre tower of York Minster is said to have been buUt under his superintendence, when he was Archdeacon of the East Hiding. He died in 1406, and was buried iu the Cathedral of Durham. •^ The wages of workmen about this time were 3d. a day to a master mason or car. penter, and 1 Jd, to their " knaves," as their journeymen were then called. A pound's worth of sUver then was a pound weight, which is equal to Si. of our present money, and one penny then would purchase as much corn as 30d. now, bringing the artizana' wages to the rate of 2s. 6d. a day. { Dralie's Ebor., p. 485. § Torre's MSS., p, 7, II Stubbs' Chron. Pontif. Ebor. in vita Gul. Zouch» 434 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. one was raised in its stead by the executors of Zouche, and endowed as a Chantry for prayers for the soul of that prelate. Of aU the different parts of this magnificent structure, the very elegant Chapter House is the only one whioh the date is totaUy unknown. No records extant give any account of the time of its erection, but from the style of architecture, Drake and others conjecture that it "is to be ascribed to Walter de Grey ; and especially as a figure in the window over the entrance corresponds with the representalion of that prelate on his tomb, and the anus of several of his contemporaries are painted in some of the other windows. But Mr. AUen thinks that this part of the Church, with its vestibule, is more probably of the reign of Edward TTT. The foUowing is the chronological order of the dates of the erection of the several parts of the present fabric, on the authority of Mr. John Britton :* — South Transept, begun by Archbishop Walter de Grey, in the reign of Henry III., A.D. 1337 ; North Transept, by John le Eomayne, 1360 ; Chapter House, about the same time ; Nave, by Archbishop le Romayne, in the reign of Ed ward I., 1391 ; Choir, by Archbishop Thoresby, in the reign of Edward TTL., 1352 ; Great Central Tower, about the same time ; and the Two West Towers, built about 1402. The whole fabric was finished about the year 1426. Thus within the space of 300 years this superb Cathedral was completed in the form and dimensions in which it appears at this day. The styles of architecture of the various parts of the building are as follows : — The Crypt, chiefly Norman ; North and South Transept, Early EngUsh ; Nave and West Front of Nave, Decorated; Choir, Lady Chapel, Central Tower, and the Towers at the west end. Perpendicular ; Chapter House, Decorated.-l- Tbe foUowing contracts are entered in the books of the Church, and they are also noticed in Torre's MSS. :' — " On Monday next, after the feast of St. Agatha the Virgin, celebrated February 5th, 1338 (13th Edward IH.), it was * Britten's Antiquities of York Cathedral, p. 33. t According to Browne's History of York Minster, the dates of its erection are as under. For the names of the Archbishops in whose times the several parts were btult, as well as of the contemporaneous Kings, see the table commencing at page 383 of this volume. The Original Church of stone commenced a.d, 627; restored 670; injured by fire, 741; rebuUt 1080; injured by fire, 1137; and rebuUt or repaired in 1170. The Present Cathedral. — The South Transept erected about the year 1220; North Transept erected from 1250 to 1270 ; Chapter House, from 1280 to 1340 ; Vestibule to Chapter House, from 1335 to 1350; Nave, 1291 to 1360; Eastern portion of the Choir, 1361 to 1415 ; Western portion of the Choir, 1419 to 1472 ; South-west BeU Tower, 1433 to 1450; North-west BeU Tower, 1450 to 1474; the Great Tower, 1460 to 1472; • and the Organ Screen, from 1476 to 1518. filSTOEY OP THE OATHEDEAL OP YOEK. 4S§ covenanted by indenture, that Thos. de Boreston, vicar choral, should at his own proper costs glaze two windows in the Cathedral Church, viz., on each side one (west end of nave), find" all the glass for the same, and pay the work men their wages for the finishing thereof. Thos. de Ludham, Custos of the fabric, became bound to pay him twenty-two marks sterling, viz., eleven marks for each window.'' Likewise in 1388 another indenture was made between one Robert, a glazier, on the one part, and Thos. de Boreston, Custos of the fabric, on the other, for the making of a window at the west gable of this Cathedral Church, and to find all sorts of glass for the same, and for doing the work the said Thomas was to pay him sixpence per foot for white, and twelvepence per foot for coloured glass. The substance of a singular contract for glazing and painting the great eastern window is also preserved in Torre's MSS. The indenture, which is dated 10th of August, 1405, is between John Thornton, of Coventry, glazier, and the Dean and Chapter. The painting was to be executed with his own hands ; and the work to be finished in three years ; and his pay was four shiUings per week, and five pounds sterling at the end of each of the three years ; and if he performed the work to the satisfaction of his employers, he was to receive the further sum of ten pounds. There does not seem to have been much alteration in the Minster from the time of its completion, tUl we come to the period of the Reformation, when several of the Chantries and altars, together with the shrine of St. WiUiam, were removed.* Some of these were however restored in Mary's reign ; but all were cleared away in the reign of Elizabeth. The pavement of the Cathedral is of recent date ; anciently it consisted (chiefly) of the gravestones of the Bishops and other ecclesiastics. " At the period of the Reformation," says Mr. Britton, " the furious zeal which de molished so many beautiful monuments of antiquity, did not spare York Cathedral; nor did the fanatics of CromweU's time omit here their pious practices of destroying the figures and epitaphs on the tombs, and steaUng the brasses. The numerous gravestones stripped of their ornaments, and otherwise injured, disfigured the Church ; the old pavement was therefore taken up, and the present one laid down in 1736, according to a plan by Mr. Kent, under the direction of Lord BurUngton. The stone for the purpose was the donation of Sir Edward Gascoigne, of Parlington, from his quarry at • There were more than forty Chantries, and about thirty altars dispersed in several places of this Cathedral, but it is as difficult in this day to assign the respective situ ations of a great many of them, as it is to find out the lands with which the Chautriea were originaUy endowed. 3 I 436 PIISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. Huddleston, in Yorkshire ; and even some of the old marble gravestones were cut up and appropriated to this work. The expenses amounting to £3,500. were defrayed by a subscription among the ifoblemen and gentlemen of York shire. It is however to be regretted that the noble amateur did not adapt the design of his pavement to the style and character of the edifice; instead of disposing of it in a sort of Roman pattern." During the re-paying of the Church, some curious rings of ruby and sap phire, set in gold, belonging to those whose mortal remains had mixed with their pfirent dust, were discovered, and are now shown in the vestry. Since the period of the Commonwealth to the beginning of the year 1899, there is nothing particularly worth recording in the history of the Minster, But on the 3nd of February in that year the magnificent choir was destroyed by fire, kindled by the hand of an incendiary. On Sunday afternoon, Feb ruary 1st, the usual service was performed in the choir at four o'clock, and in the evening (it being Candlemas-eve) the ringers were in the Church tiU about half-past six. About four o'clock on Monday morning a man passing through the Minster Yard saw a Ught in the building, but supposing that it might arise from workmen in the edifice, it excited no suspicion in his mind. About seven o'clock a fire was discovered in the choir, in a rather singular manner. A young chorister of the name of Swinbank, in passing through the Minster Yard, slipped upon the ice and fell on his back. Whilst in this position he saw a quantity of smoke issue from the roof of the Minster. He immediately gave the alarm to the key keeper, and upon the door being opened the whole building was found to be filled with a dense smoke, and the curious and interesting wood work of the choir was extensively on fire. The flames rapidly spread over the whole of that beautiful coUection of carved oak pews and tracery, which had till then exhibited the taste and wealth of our forefathers. In a short time the workmen and others assembled, and all the engines in the City were on the spot. Several individuals succeeded in carrying out cushions and books from the north side of the choir, and the curious old chair which stood within the rails of the altar. The brass eagle was removed with great difficulty, owing to its weight and the suffocating effects of the smoke. The Communion table was removed in time to save it, but the plate, which was kept in a secret place in the choir, was found to have been melted into shapeless masses. When the organ caught fire, an appaUing noise, occasioned by the action of the air in the pipes upon the flames, reverberated through the building, and struck with awe aU who heard it. This noble organ, whicl; was said to be unequalled for tone and power by any instrument in the world, was totaUy consumed, with a valuable collection HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. 427 of music which was deposited in the organ loft, and much of which being in manuscript cannot be replaced. By nine o'clock the entire choir was on fire, and the roof began to fall in large masses, with horrid and deafening crashes, the melted lead pouring down in torrents. The engines were scarcely able to check the flames, until they were partly stifled by the faUing of the heavy materials of the roof and ceiling. At eleven o'clock the whole roof had come down, and then the fire began rapidly to be got under ; and by two o'clock aU danger of further mischief from the flames was at an end. By extraordinary efforts the beautiful screen, which divides the nave from the choir, was saved from destruction. During the afternoon the Cathedral and its precincts presented a melancholy spectacle. The floor of the nave was strewed with fragments of the roof whioh had been brought from the choir ; and against one of the piUars laid the remains of the organ, consisting of some fragments of the gilt pipes, and a portion of the iron work. The Minster Yard was thickly strewed with the fragments of the roof, blackened in the fire, and reduced to the consistency of charcoal. By this great fire the roof of the choir was entirely destroyed, as weU as the organ, tabernacle work, and several of the monuments were either totally destroyed or very much injured. The roofs of the side aisles of the choir being groined with stone, did not take fire, and the great east window was scarcely touched. The fine screen between the choir and Lady Chapel was very much injured; and the clustered columns, arches, &c., were slightly injured. Many reports obtained circulation relative to the origin of the fire ; but a committee of enquiry having been formed, it was ascertained that the rope was cut from the beU which is rung for prayers ; and it had the appearance of having been cut with a stone, the end being very much chafed. A knotted rope was then found attached to the far window of the North Transept, and it was ascertained that the window was opened from the interior. A bunch of matches, burnt at both ends, was found under the rubbish of the burnt organ ; and a pair of shoemaker's pincers on the stool of the window, out of which the knotted rope was suspended. It was now quite evident that the destruction of the noble ediflce was the work of an incendiary. A shoemaker, who resided at Aldwark (a street in the City), owned the pincers as his, and this discovery, connected with other circumstances, formed a chain of evidence of such a conclusive nature, as left no doubt that a man named Jonathan Martin, a native of Hexham, was the incendiary. He had lodged for a , month with this shoemaker, and on Tuesday, the 37th of January, he left his lodgings, stating that he was going to reside at Leeds. On the foUowing Saturday evening, about eight o'clock, he returned to his old lodgings, giving 438 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. as a reason for so doing, that having twenty of his books to seU at Tadeaster, he thought he would come as far as York. Convenience was made for him to sleep that night in the shoemaker's workshop, and the next morning, Sunday, he went out about half-past ten, and returned no more. On Mon day, the 8th of February, he was taken near Hexham, and on his examination before a bench of Magistrates, he stated that in consequence of having had two remarkable dreams, he thought he was to set fire to the Minster. On the 31st of March he was tried at York Castle before the late Baron HuUock, and found not guilty, on the ground of insanity ; so he was ordered to be detained during his Majesty's pleasure. In his defence, in whioh he displayed much subtlety and cunning, he gave a minute detail of his pro ceedings, and the different expedients resorted to in order to complete his " pious work," as he called it. He stated that he attended the evening ser vice, and was " very much vexed at hearing them sing the prayers, and amens ; he thought the prayer of the heart came from the heart ; and that they had no caU for prayer books. The organ then made such a buzzing noise,'' he observed, "Thou shalt buzz no more — ^I'U have thee down to night." He then related how he left the choir with the congregation at the close of the service, concealed himself behind Bishop GranviUe's tomb till all went out, and remained concealed tiU the beU-ringers left the building ; how he arose and prayed, and called upon the Lord for help ; how the Spirit told him to strike a light, how he completed the work of destruction, and escaped through the window, looking back with pleasure on the " merry blaze which began to shoot up." The miserable fanatic was confined in New Bethlehem Hospital, London, where he died on the 3rd of June, 1838. Mr. Smirke* afterwards Sir Robert Smirke, the eminent architect, drew up a report of the state of the building, and an estimate for its restoration. He recommended that simUar materials should be employed for its renovation as had been originally used ; that the ornamental work should be finished in ,the same manner, and in strict conformity, as before ; the roof to be of oak, and to be covered with lead ; and the carved ribs in the roof, the prebendal StaUs, and other parts appertaining, to be oak. The restoration of the edifice was effected under his direction, at a cost of £65,000., which was raised by national subscription. The Government gave £5,000. worth of teak timber from the dock yards; and Sir E. M. Vavasour, Bart., of Hazlewood Castle, nobly imitating the example of his ancestors, gave the stone. His Grace the Archbishop presented the Communion plate, and a subscription of £3,000, ; and one of the Prebendaries, the Hon, and Rev. J. L. SaviUe (afterwards HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 429 Earl of Scarborough), gave the organ. On the 6th of May, 1832, the choir was again opened for Divine service. Another disastrous fire took place in the Cathedral, on Wednesday, the 30th of May, 1840, in consequence of the carelessness of a workman em ployed to clean the clock, in the south-west tower. The flames had acquired great power before any efficient check could be brought to bear upon them. The first alarm was given about half past seven in the evening, and by nine o'clock the peal of bells had fallen,* and the fire raged through the roof of the tower, and along the roof of the centre aisle of the nave. By midnight the tower and nave had been reduced to mere shells, and by the greatest exertion the most imminent danger was then over. This damage was wholly repaired in the foUowing year, at a cost of about £33,000., the whole of which, with the exception of a few thousand pounds, was raised by public subscrip tion. The restoration was admirably effected under the superintendence of Mr. Sidney Smirke. The Cathedral is now in excellent repair; men are kept constantly employed on the building to restore aU the decayed parts, with strict attention to original forms and details. It is beUeved that this edifice could not be entirely rebuUt in its present style for less than £3,000,000. Four Grand Musical Festivals have been held in this Cathedral, for the benefit of the York County Hospital, and the Infirmaries of Leeds, Hull, and Sheffield. The first took place on the 38rd of September, 1823, and the three foUowing days. The whole of the three aisles of the spacious nave were fitted up in a most splendid manner. The floor was boarded over, and an immense gallery constructed at the west end, projecting eighty-three feet eastward to the third piUar of the nave. The front seat was elevated four and a half feet above the pavement, and the back seat was on a level with the base of the window, at the height of twenty-eight feet. The orchestra was erected under the great lantern tower. The,band was composed of 385 vocal, and 180 in strumental performers. The music consisted of selections from the compo sitions of Handel, Hadyn, Mozart, &c. The number of persons who attended the four days' performances was 17,000 ; and the gross amount of the receipts (including the evening concerts at the Assembly Eooms) was £16,174. 16s. 8d. ; the gross surplus, which was equally shared among the charities above mentioned, was £7,300. The Second Festival commenced on the 13th of September, 1835. Total number of persons present at the four performances, 30,878. The band con- * This was an exceUent peal of ten beUs, the whole of which were destroyed during that calamity, the metal being meUed by the intense heat. The tenor weighed 53 cwt. 851b., having a diameter of 5 feet 5 inches. 430 HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. sisted of 615 persons, vocal and instrumental. Gross receipts, £20,876. lOs. The Third Festival took place on the 38rd of September, 1828, and three foUowing days, and was attended by aU the rank and fashion in the north of England. On this occasion additional galleries were erected in the side aisles. The: orchestra consisted of 350 vocal performers, exclusive of thirteen prin cipal singers ; and 200 instrumentaUsts. The receipts were £16,769. lis. 4d. The aggregate attendance was 14,535 persons. The Fourth Festival (which was the last) was held on the 7th of September, 1836, and three succeeding days. This Festival was patronised, in person, by Her Majesty (then the Princess Victoria) and the Duchess of Kent. The Royal party attended the Cathedral on each of the four days. The orchestra consisted of about 600 vocal and instrumental performers. The gross receipts were £16,663. 3s. 9d. ; the gross expenditure, £13,073, 15s, ; and the sur plus of £3,588, 8s, 9d. was divided in the proportions of £1,794, 4s, 5d, to the restoration fund for the fire of 1899, and £448, lis. Id, each to the charitable institutions above mentioned. The late Dr, Beckwith, of York, who died in December, 1843, left a sum of £9,000, for the purchase of a new peal of beUs for the Cathedral; and a further sum of £3,000, to be applied to the restoration of the Chapter House, The new and beautiful peal of twelve beUs, provided out of the above-named munificent bequest, were rung for the first time on the 4th of July, 1844, the day on which the restoration committee closed their arduous labours. The bells, which are placed in the south tower, vary in height from 3^ to 5| feet, and in weight from 7-J to 58|^ cwt,* The large clock bell, named Great Peter of York, is worthy of a special notice. It cost £9,000., which was raised by public subscription among the citizens ; the Dean and Chapter agreeing to expend a similar sum in putting the north-western tower in a state of repair suitable for its reception. This * The history of bells, as used in collecting the people for reUgious worship, is in volved in some obscurity. The invention of beUs is by some attributed to the Egyptians, and it is certain fhat they were always used to announce the festivals in honour of Osiris, Among the Hebrews, the high priests, in grand ceremonies, wore a kind of tunic, orna mented with smaU golden bells, BeUs were also known among the Persians and Greeks. The Eomans used bells to signify the times of bathing, and the early Christians in Italy naturally appUed them to denote the hours of devotion. It is said that PauUnus, Bishop of Nola, a City of Campania, in Italy, introduced bells into the church to summon the people to divine worship ; but it does not appear that large bells were used before the sixth century. Their flrst adaptation to the use of the Anglo-Saxon Church is not clearly to be ascertained from written testimony. Some say they were introduced there by Pope Leo I, ; and others by PauUnus. According to Malmesbury, small beUs, HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 431 monster beU was cast by Messrs. Mears, of London (who also were the founders of the new peal of twelve), and it was hung in its present position in the above-mentioned tower in 1845. It is the largest bell in the United Kingdom (with the exception of the great clock bell recently cast for the new Houses of Parliament*), its weight being eleven and a half tons. Its dia meter at the mouth is 8ft. 4in. ; its height, 7ft. 3in. ; and its thickness at the sounding curve is 7 inches. The weight of the clapper is 4 cwt. 1 qr. 51b. This ponderous clapper is of wrought iron of Yorkshire manufacture, and is a beautiful specimen of workmanship. The bell is heavier by four tons than Great Tom of Oaf ord, by six tons than the celebrated Tom of Lin coln, and by nearly eight tons than the large bell at St. Paul's, formerly called Great Tom of Westminster.^ The ornaments of the bell are suitable, and of a character and style similar to the details of the principal parts of the Cathedral. The arms of the City and Church are placed on each side of it. The oaken stock on which the beU is flxed weighs, with the bolts, three tons. There were seventeen tons of metal prepared for this bell. It was run in seven and a half minutes ; took fourteen days in cooUng before it nolm, were used in Britain in the flfth century ; and it is clear from Bede, that large bells, campance, such as sounded in the air, and caUed a nnmerous congregation to divine service, were employed in England in the year 680. It appears however, as we have intimated at page 419, that the towers of Churches were not constructed solely for the use of bells, but partly to direct the weary and benighted traveUer to a place of human habitation ; for whioh benevolent purpose lights were frequently burnt in them during the darkest nights. * The great beU recently erected in the Clock Tower of the Houses of ParUament at Westminster, and now the largest beU in England, was cast in 1 856 at the Norton Blast Furnacps near Stockton-on-Tees, by Messrs. Warner and Co., and is commonly called Big Ben of Westminster, in honour of Sir Benjamin HaU, Bart., then Chief Commissioner of Works. This monster beU weighs within a small fraction of sixteen tons. Its diameter is 9 feet 5^ inches, its height outside 7 feet lOi inches, and inside 6 feet 8 inches. The clapper weighs 7 cwt. Its first peal was rung for prayers on the occasion of the opening of ParUament on the 3rd of February in the present year (1857), being then but in a temporary resting place. Its note is E natural, aud the tone is very fine. The " quarter jacks," the largest of which is six feet iu diameter, and weighs about four tons, have also been cast at Norton. + On the very site which Big Ben's tower now occupies, there stood until the Eevo lution of 1688, an ancient clock Tower built in the reign of Edward I. from the proceeds of a fine levied on a Chief Justice convicted of bribery. Within this tower hung " Great Tom of Westminster," and on the removal of the tower WiUiam III, presented the bell to the Dean and Chapter of St, Paul's, The circumstance of this beU's having' once struck thirteen times at midnight, instead of the proper'number, saved the Ufe of a sentry at Windsor Castle, 433 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. could be uncovered ; and is one of the most perfect specimens of gigantic casting known. Round the top is the following inscription in Lombardic characters :— ^ " In sanctae et seternae Trinitatis honorem Pecunia sponte ooUata, Eboracenses Faciendum coraverunt in usum Ecolesise metrop. B. Petri, Ebor." And round the rim — " Anno Salutis MDCCCXLV. Victorise Eegina VIIL, Edwardi Arohiepi XXXVIH. C. et G. Mears, Londini, Fecerunt." This magnificent beU is in the key of F, and is at present rung by means of a hammer and two wheels, one on each side of the axle, fourteen feet in diameter, by which imperfect mode however its powers are never fuUy dc' veloped. DESCEIPTION.— E'iBtenor.^-The Cathedral of York, usuaUy called York Minster,* is one of the most magnificent fanes of the Christian religion in existence, and is decidedly the most splendid monument in Great Britain of the piety of former times ; as weU as one of the most interesting combinations of Gothic architecture in the world. Stupendous castles, splendid monas teries, and massy towers, reared through many ages subsequent to the erec tion of this superb pile, have long since mouldered away, and their site ceased to be known ; but the withering finger of time has failed to devastate this elaborate erection. Architects and traveUers from many countries have expressed themselves in the highest terms of admiration of this venerable pile, and one of the latest notices of it wiU be found in a recently published work caUed English Traits. The distinguished author of that work, 'Ralph Waldo Emerson, in referring to Winchester Cathedral, says, "I think I prefer this Church to all I have seen except Westminster and York." And • The word Minster in the Anglo-Saxon is Mynster; in the old Franco Gaulick Mon- stier; but all from the Latin Monasteriunt, a Cathedral Church and Monastery being formerly syuonimous terms. " Jn ancient times scarce any Ulustrious Churches were built without a congregation of Monks to attend divine service there ; a mark whereof remains to this day, for our Cathedral Churches are vulgarly oaUed Minsters, or Monas- teries. And this was according to the advice given to St. Augustine hf Pope Gregory, to institute in his Churches a body of reUgious persons Uke that in the primitive Church of Jerusalem, in which none accounted those things which he possessed his own, but all things were common among them."— Crcssj/'s History of the Saaon Chwch. The term Minster is stiU retained by a few Churches of eminence for their splendid appearance and antiquity. HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 438 in another passage, speaking of the religion of England, he says " And plainly there has been great power of sentiment at work in this island, of which these buildings (old Castles and Cathedrals) are the proof: as volcanic basalts show the work of fire which has been extinguished for many ages. England felt the full heat of the Christianity which fermented Europe, and drew, like the chemistry of fire, a firm line between barbarism and culture. The power of the religious sentiment put an end to human sacrifices, checked appetite, inspired the crusades, inspired resistance to tyrants, inspired self-respect, set bounds to serfdom and slavery, founded liberty, created the religious archi tecture, — York, Newstead, Westminster, Fountain's Abbey, Ripon, Beverley, and Dundee,^ — -works to which the key is lost, with the sentiment which created them." This sumptuous Church, where Kings have knelt down to worship Him, who is the King of Kings, and warriors laid aside the panoply of human warfare to sue for peace with heaven, is a very conspicuous object for miles on all sides of the City. Its ground plan is a Latin cross, in which a peculiar symmetry is observable, owing to the uniform regularity of its construction ; a feature which few Ca thedrals possess, on account of the many subordinate Chapels which interfere with their general arrangement. The parts of the building are a nave, with side aisles; a transept, situated at about the middle of its length, also con sisting of nave and aisles ; a choir and side aisles, and a " Ladye Chapel" in continuation, eastward of the altar screen. A smaU transept is situated about midway between the great transept and the east end of the Church. Attached to the south side of the choir, east of the south transept, are three small Chapels, and these are all the extraneous Chapels which ever belonged to this magnificent structure. A fine lantern tower rises from the intersection of the nave and transept, and the west end is adorned with two splendid towers. Adjoining to the north end of the eastern aisle of the great transept is the elegant octagonal shaped Chapter House, with its interesting vestibule. To describe minutely all the transcendent beauties which are constellated in this distinguished edifice, with all the technicality of architectural pre cision, would be tedious to the general reader ; yet a brief outline may be equally acceptable and useful. We will conduct the stranger therefore round the Minster before we pass the sacred threshold to survey the beauties of the interior. The Western or Principal Front, with its two graceful towers, has a truly noble appearance. Human skill could scarcely have produced anything more complete in this style of architecture. This front is divided into three com- 3 K 434 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. partments by the buttresses which support the towers. These buttresses are richly enchased with niches and canopies in relief, from their base to the very summit, where they terminate in angular heads under the cornice of the towers, and are broken in height into four stories, gradually diminishing in breadth and projection as they rise. At this front there are three entrances, the central one of which is of elegant workmanship and curious design. It is divided by a piUar, composed of three clustered columns, with foliated capitals, into two doorways, crowned with pointed arches ; the points of these arches bear a circular window, the tracery of which is formed of six trefoils in triangles ; and the whole is en closed within a splendid recessed arch, composed of various mouldings relieved by hoUows ; the mouldings being occupied by the most delicate sculptures of flowers, niche work, &c. In one of the mouldings of the arch are sixteen delicate and elegantly executed niches, each containing a sculptured scene from the history of Adam and Eve. Over the top of the great door, in a sitting posture, is a statue of Archbishop de Melton, the principal founder of this part of the Church, who is represented with a model of the building in his hand; and in niches on each side of the tympanum are figures of Robert de Vavasour, holding a piece of rough unhewn stone in his hand ; and WiUiam de Percy, holding the simiUtude of a piece of wrought timber, to commemorate their respective gifts of stone and timber for the choir of the Church. Above this doorway is a grand window of elegant design— an un- rivaUed specimen of the leafy tracery which marks the style of the middle of the fourteenth century. It is divided by muUions into eight Ughts, and the head of the arch is filled with a beautiful arrangement of trefoUs and other ornaments. Like the doorway this window is covered with a pediment, and accompanied with niches. A cornice and pierced battlement then succeed, over which the elevation finishes in a low pediment, the raking cornice of which is ornamented with a graduated battlement, and on the apex is a handsome pinnacle. The whole of this front has niches, with pedestals for statuary, but whatever might have been the intention of the architects, it appears that they have never been occupied. In the front of one of the buttresses of the north tower, is a very large niche, on the pedestal of which are the remains of a person seated upon a horse or mule, with another figure minus the head and shoulders, standing a Uttle behind. The upper part of the mounted figure is gone, but when perfect, the whole was probably a representation of the Flight into Egypt. On the corresponding buttress of the south tower is a niche of the same size, having on its pedestal the remains of a man on horseback, with figures beneath the horse's feet. The HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEE. 435. whole of the upper part of the mounted figure is also gone. Gent says that the subject in this niche, when perfect, was a representation of a knight trampling envy, &c., under foot. There are similar niches in the other two buttresses of this front, but the niches are vacant. The towers, which are uniform, and of graceful elevation, and in ten several contractions, all cloistered for imagery, are four stories in height. The upper stories are more modern than the rest of the front, they having been built by John de Bermingham, who was Treasurer of the Church about the year 1433. The ground floors of the towers contain entrances to the Church, and the three succeeding stories have windows, the general style of decoration assimilating with the central portion. The finish of the elevation of each tower is a pierced parapet, embattled and surmounted by eight crocheted pinnacles, four at the angles, and one situated in the centre of each side. The entrance to the Church in the lower story of the towers, though of a subordinate character to the centre doorway, are stUl very fine, each having a handsome deeply recessed arch, supported by columns similar to the centre door. Two of the windows of each tower on every side are glazed, but the windows of the upper stories are filled with weather boarding. On the west side of the south tower, a little higher up than the leads, is an in-, scription having the appearance of Old English characters, representing the word, BEE-MING-H4.M. At each end of the word, and between its divisions, are figures of chained eagles and bears. This is the memorial of the above- named Treasurer, who rebuilt or finished this as well as the north tower. The dilapidations which time and fanatical zeal had inflicted on the statuary and the ornamental work of the west front were well restored by Mr. Taylor, sculptor, of York, in 1808, and the steps which grace the three en trances were discovered and laid bare in 1898, whilst leveUing the ground in front of the building. The stone of which the lower part of this front of the Cathedral is constructed, was brought from the quarries near Tadeaster ; but that of the two towers was probably obtained from the quarries of Sta pleton, near Pontefract ; for among the archives of the Duchy of Lancaster, is a grant dated 17th of July, 1400, to the Dean and Chapter to be exempt from the payment of tolls and other customs on the river Aire, for stone to be carried to York Cathedral, for the new worlcs. Tlie Nave, which was commenced by Archbishop le Romayne, in 1991, is divided into seven parts by buttresses, and consists, as usual, of two stories, that in the centre has a clerestory, or a story rising above the side aisles. In every division of the aisle is a fine window of three Ughts, made by mul- 436 HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. lions.* The clerestory has a window of five Ughts in each division, with generally a circle or wheel in the head of the arch, filled with quatrefoU tracery. The finish is an open battlement over a leaved cornice. The North side is finished in a plain style, and has no pinnacles over the buttresses. It was formerly blocked up by the Archbishop's palace, and this probably ac counts for the absence of elaborate ornament. The flying buttresses towards ' the clerestory were removed at an early period. The South side resembles the opposite side in its general character and decorations ; the buttresses are surmounted by lofty and elegant pinnacles, instead of the dwarf caps on the other side. In each is a niche, and in them are statues of Our Saviour, Archbishop St. WiUiam, and the four Evangelists. These pinnacles have been completely restored within the last twenty-five years. The whole of the portions of the Church already described, are, with trifling exceptions, in the richest style of the fourteenth century. The South Transept is, with the exception of the crypt, the oldest portion of the Church. The early date of this transept is evinced by the acutely-pointed arches, and slender piUars, with plain or slightly ornamented capitals, and its angular pediments. The chasteness of its ornaments forms a strong con trast with the sumptuous grandeur of the nave. The whole front is divided by buttresses into three parts, corresponding with the three internal aisles. These buttresses are ornamented by pointed arches of the lancet form, and surmounted by four octagonal turrets, of a later style of architecture. In the central division is the principal porch or South Entrance of the Cathedral, approached by two spacious flights of steps, an unusual appendage to an ancient building. After the Eeformation, we are told by Cooke, "some avaricious Dean leased out the ground for some space on each side of these steps, for building houses and shops on." These buildings, which " were of great discredit, as weU as an annoyance to the fabric," continued, he tells us, " till the worthy Dean Gale, amongst other particular benefactions, suffered the leases to run out, puUed down the houses, and cleaned this part of the Church from the scurf it had contracted by the smoke proceeding from these dwellings. "-|- The arch of entrance is pointed, and was altered between forty and fifty years ago ; and an ancient clock, which stood over it, with two wooden statues in armour of the time of Henry VIL, that struck the quarters on two smaU * MuUions are the soUd species of masonry which divide the space of a window into ^compartments. i Cooke's Topographical Description of Yorkshire. HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 487 beUs, was removed at the same time, and the present handsome dial sub stituted. The second story has lancet windows ; and the third, which is crowned with a pediment, has a beautiful circular rose or wheel window, one of the most splendid of the kind in England. It is sometimes caUed the marigold window, from its resemblance to that flower. It consists of three ' concentric circles, the smallest occupied with six sweeps ; the second has twelve columns, surmounted by trefoil arches, disposed in the manner of the spokes of a wheel ; and the third has twenty-four similar arches disposed in the same manner. Above this is a triangular window, and the apex is surmounted by a small spire, commonly caUed the Fiddler's 'turret, from a small effigy of a fiddler which crowns it. This effigy was removed from some other part of the build ing, and placed here. The aisles have lancet windows, and the general style of the decorations correspond with the centre. The west side of the south entrance is disfigured by a plain irregular building of two stories, now used as the WUl Office of the Diocese. The low buildings on the east of the same entrance are vestries and out offices of the Church. They were formerly chantries, and one of them was known as Archbishop de la Zouche's Chapel, already noticed. It is much to be regretted in the many improvements which of late years have been made in the immediate neighbourhood of the Minster, that these excrescences, which are of a different style of architecture, and at variance with the scope and design of the noble edifice, and which consequently deform it, have been aUowed to continue. Were it not for these erections, the spectator would be presented with a clear and unbroken coup d'ceil of the Cathedral, incomparable in magnificence and extent. The North Transept exhibits the finished neatness and plainness of the first period of the pointed style. The walls both of the aisle and doorway are finished with a block cornice, with enriched mouldings and plain parapet. The windows are narrow and acutely pointed, and buttresses are attached to the piers, having angular pedimental caps. The turrets at the angles seem unfinished, as they are left without spires or pinnacles, and the point of the gable ends abruptly, without any decoration. The north front commences with a low blank arcade, or a series of arches with trefoil heads. Above the arcade is a fine window of five long single lancet Ughts ; and higher up stiU is another of a Uke number of Ughts ; both of unequal height. The west aisle has a double lancet window, which is finished with a raking cornice. The end of the eastern aisle is built against by the vestibule of the Chapter House. Some years ago this front was partially restored, and portions of it were considerably altered. AS8 HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. The Choir is in the same style as the nave, though of a later period. On each side, about midway, is a projection above the side aisles, called the Little Transept, with a lofty window rising from the middle of the aisle to nearly the top of the choir, and also with windows over the side aisles. This transept projects no further than the walls of the aisle. This transept has somewhat the appearance of a square tower, though not carried higher than the waUs of the nave. At the angles are double buttresses, ending in pin nacles, and in the flank waUs above the aisles are windows to correspond with the others. The space between the great and little transept is in three divisions, with windows filled with tracery of an elegant but more regular design than the nave ; the buttresses are crowned with pinnacles, and the finish to the waUs is similar to the nave. The four divisions eastward of this transept are uniform with those before described, except that the cleres tory windows are fronted with open screens of beautiful stone work, which gives them the appearance of unglazed windows. This feature is peculiar to this Cathedral in England, but it occurs in some of the continental Churches. The large pinnacles of the buttresses on the south side of this part of the choir have been recently restored, together with the parapet and the outer mouldings and finials of the windows. The great east window has a similar screen-work before it, towards the interior. The cornice under the battle ments is more perfect towards the eastern parts, and exhibits beautiful foliage. The spouts are sculptured with bold projecting figures, through which the water is conveyed from the roofs. The Eastern Front, which is extremely beautiful, is divided by buttresses into three portions, answering to the nave and aisles. The buttresses are adorned with niches, pedestals, and canopies, formerly filled with statues, but now empty. The north and south buttressess are octagonal, and con tain staircases. The great east window in the centre is of the most magni- nificent proportions, and unrivaUed workmanship. Pugin, the celebrated architect, considered it the finest window in the world. It is divided in breadth by muUions into nine divisions, which are made by transoms into three tiers of lights, and the head is occupied by three sub-arches, and a number of minute compartments. Over the lofty arch is a fine sweeping ogee moulding, with foliage canopy, remarkable for its fine curve and lofty termination. Above the canopy is some highly elaborate and beautiful tabernacle work, and in the centre is a square turret, with a crocheted finial. The aisles have windows of three lights of a corresponding character, and similar in finish to the centre. The statue in the niche, immediately over the point of the window, is supposed to represent Archbishop Thoresby, the HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 439 builder of this part of the fabric. The figure, which is robed and seated, holds in its left hand the model of a Church, and points to the window with its right. In the niches in the extreme ¦ angular buttresses were, formerly, statues of Vavasour and Percy, who bestowed the stone and timber for the buUding. The seventeen heads at the base of the great window represent Our Saviour (the centre one), the Twelve Apostles, and some of the ancient Fathers of the Church. The north and south aisles of the choir pretty much correspond, except that the front of the latter is disfigured by the addition of the before mentioned vestries. The Great Central or Lantern Tower, rises from the intersection ' of the nave and transept, and surmounts the whole Cathedral. " This magnificent erection," writes Britton, " bears evident marks of the Tudor style. On each of its four sides are two large windows, with two tiers of muUions bounded on each side by compartmented buttresses. The battlements are richly per forated." Drake says that " tradition assures us it was meant to be carried much higher, by a spire of wood, covered with lead on the top of it; but the foundation was found too weak for such a superstructure," and recent dis coveries have tended to strengthen this opinion. Great fault has been found with this tower, because it is not surmounted by pinnacles, as are the other parts of the Cathedral ; but this defect is in some sort compensated for by the massive appearance which the absence of pinnacles give it. The top is reached by a spiral staircase of 978 steps, and the labour of ascending is weU repaid by the view that it affords of the country for many miles round. The highest point of this tower is 213 feet from tbe ground. It is 65 feet in breadth, and is said to be the most massive tower in England. In the year 1666, by order of the Duke of Buckingham, a turret of wood was erected, covered with lead and glazed, on the top of it. This was to put lights into upon occasion, to serve as a beacon to alarm the country, in case the Hol landers or French, with both which powers we were then at war, should attempt to land on our coasts. Inteeioe, — On entering the Cathedral from the west end,* the vastness of its dimensions, the justness of its proportions, and the chaste simplicity and beauty of the arrangement, produce an intense impression of grandeur. Architecture perhaps never produced, nor can imagination easily conceive a vista of greater sublimity and magnificence than that which is seen from this entrance. The spectator has before him a perspective of upwards of five * The principal entrance to the Cathedral is at the west front, but it is now used only at funerals, or the reception of an Archbishop, in solemn procession for enthronization • or in cases of visits from royal or very distinguished personages. 440 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. hundrd feet, the continuity of the vaulting broken in a pleasing manner about the centre of the lantern tower. In contemplating this spacious nave, with its beautiful columns, and ceiling groined and ribbed, the beholder may fancy himself within a superb avenue of lofty trees, whose upper branches are elegantly intertwined in an endless variety of complicated combinations. He views the grand design with increasing attention, and soon becomes imbued with other sentiments than those of mere admiration of the building, as a superb specimen of the almost unlimited extent to which the exertions of human science may be carried. Worldly considerations are rapidly swept away to make room for ideas of greater solemnity. Another fine point of observation is beneath the central tower. Here may at once be seen the lengthened aisles and lofty columns; the statuary screen, which divides the nave and choir, aud the several painted windows. To describe the effect which this grand scene must produce on the mind of the spectator, must un avoidably be to do it injustice. It must be experienced to be felt and under stood, for he is now within the sacred waUs of one of those grand Churches, which, as Wharton observes, are of wonderful mechanism, constructed on principles of inexpUcable architecture, and possessing a tendency to impress the soul with sensations of awe and reUgious veneration. The elevation of the nave is in three heights or stories, as is usual in most Cathedrals. It is separated from the side aisles by long ranges of finely clus tered columns, of which the central shafts rise to the roof, and the others support a series of graceful arches in the Early Pointed style, chastely and appropriately enriched. The capitals are ornamented with leaves, and the mouldings of the arches, which form the first story of the elevation, and the other architectural details, though rather plain, have a most pleasing effect. The Triforium, or second story, consists of five lofty narrow trefoUed arches, with acute angular canopies, and an open screen runs in front of it. This division of the height of the nave is in a manner united with the third or clerestory. The latter contains a noble range of windows, divided by slender muUions into five Ughts, having in the crown of the arch a circular light, fiUed with quatrefoU tracery. Nearly every one of the clerestory windows have a considerable quantity of stained glass, chiefly shields of arms, &o. In the spandrils of the principal arches are shields, carved with various coats of arms in relief. Those on the North Side are the arms of the famiUes of Vavasour, Eoos, Percy, Greystock, Latimer, Vere Earis of Oxford, Beau- champ Earis of Warwick, Bohun Earls of Hereford, Aymer de Valence Eari of Pembroke, Cobham, Ulphus, and Ferrers. On the South Side, Vavasour, and Percy, Warren Earis of Surrey, Wake, Devereux, Reresby, De Mawley HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 441 Lords of Doncaster, Clare Earls of Gloucester, Bek of Eresby, Royal Arms of England, and those of a Prince of Wales. Each of the centre compart ments of every division of the second story formerly contained a statue, of which only five now remain. The most perfect is in the fifth division from the west, on the south side, which represents St. George ; and on the opposite side is a large wooden dragon, which served as a lever to lift the cover of the old font. The vaulted ceUing is of wood, plainly groined ; the bosses being carved with incidents in scriptural history, or device in relief. The present roof was erected in 1841, the whole of the previous one having been burnt in the dis astrous fire of 1840. Formerly the groins and knots were enriched with paints and gold. The aisles are ornamented in a style equally splendid with the nave. They are lighted by an elegant range of windows, each of three lights, with quatrefoiled circles and tracery. Below each window are several upright compartments, divided by buttresses, ending in pinnacles. A triple cluster of columns, uniform with those of the main piUars, is attached to the piers between the windows, and these in part sustain the vaults, which are of stone, groined with arches and cross springers. An arched doorway in the north aisle formerly led into the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, or of St. Sepulchre, as it is commonly called, built by Archbishop Eoger, and long since destroyed. Over this doorway are two shields, charged with the arms of Old France and England, and between these, on the point of the arch, is a mutilated statue of the Blessed Virgin and Divine Child, standing on a pedestal, but the upper part of the figures are now gone ; and near this are two angels in alto relievo, the heads of which have disappeared. A little beyond this doorway is an altar tomb, which is attributed, but without foundation, to Archbishop Roger. The large doors of the central entrance are separated by a slender pier, adorned with a beautiful smaU niche and canopy ; over which is a circular compartment glazed and ornamented with tracery ; and on each side is an escutcheon of arm^, one assigned to Edward IL, and the other to the Saxon Prince Ulphus. On each side of this door are two series of niches resembling the stall work in the aisles, which, with the doorway, entirely fill up the cespa beneath the great west window. Two series of niches, with pedestals for statues and angular canopies, oc cupy the jambs of the window, and the rest of the wall below the vault is ornamented with upright panels ; so that every portion of the wall from the pavement to the ceiling is tastefully covered with ornament, and the side divisions which occupy the towers, partake of the same kind of sculptured 3 L 443 HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL. OF YOEK. work. Above the arches of the doorways are reliefs representing, on the north side, the subject of a fox chase ; and on the south, a combat between a knight and an uncouth looking animal. The reUef in one of the quatrefoU panels on the latter door, represents Sampson tearing open the jaws of a Uon, whUst the faithless Delilah behind him is cutting off his hair. The relief which accompanies it, as weU as those in the quatrefoUs of the north door, are uninteUigible. The towers are cut off from view by plain floors of wood. The Pavement is a mosaic pattern on the grandest scale, but as has already been observed, it is utterly at variance with the architecture of the church. The old pavement, which was removed in 1736, was marked with circles supposed to point out the stations of the dignitaries of the church in the ancient processions. The Transept, which is also- in the Early Pointed style of architecture, consists of three aisles ; the nave or largest aisle, in common with the rest of the church, shows three stories in elevation, the first consists of large pointed arches, springing from piers set about with numerous clustered columns. The second story shows a large circular arch, divided into two others, which in like manner are subdivided into smaller ones; and the clerestory consists of an arcade of acutely pointed arches of equal height, three in each division being pierced to admit Ught. The south transept is three lays or arches in length from the centre tower, and it is remarkable that the columns and arches exhibit different styles of proportion and orna ment. The two bays nearest the tower are fiUed up with masonry, as a support to the piers of that massive structure. The present vaulted and groined ceUing is of wood, and is ornamented with a greater profusion of intersections and bosses than the nave. The ceiUng was originaUy much lower, but when the arch which supports the great tower was erected, it was necessary to raise the ceUing of the transepts to a corresponding height. The aisles have lancet windows without tracery, in pairs, the dados being ornamented with trefoU arches in blank. The vaulted roof of stone resembles that in the aisles of the great nave. The interior of the south front is pecu Uarly grand. The large circular window at the top, and the three middle windows are very fipe. The north arm of the transept is more regular than the south. Its principal feature is the elevation of the north end, which contains the window of five lancet lights caUed the Five Sisters, from a tra dition that the patterns of the several divisions were wrought in tapestry by five sister nuns, and presented to the church. When viewed from the south end the effect of this window is only inferior to that of the great east window. One of the plain windows at the end of the west aisle of this transept was HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 443 that through which the fanatic lunatic Jonathan Martin made his escape, after firing the choir in 1839. The door through the eastern wall, at present opening into the yard, is supposed to have formerly communicated with a Chapter House older than the present one. The east aisle of this transept was formerly a Chapel dedicated to St. Nicholas, founded by Richard de Chester, Canon of the Church in 1846. The baptismal font stands at the end of the western aisle of the south arm of the transept. It is a large circular basin of dark shell marble, not remarkable for any curious workmanship. The Central Tower is supported by four massive piers, surmounted by smaUer columns. From these piers spring four elegantly pointed arches, nearly one hundred feet high, above which is a gaUery in design closely re sembUng the stall work in the aisles of the nave ; and this is surmounted by eight lofty windows, two in each waU, measuring forty-five feet in length. The groined ceiling of wood, which is one hundred and eighty feet from the ground, assimilates with the nave ; the centre boss contains smaU statues of St Peter and St. Paul, with a church between them, and on four knots round about are cherubims with their wings, as mentioned in one of Ezekiel's visions, having on them the face of a man, a lion, an ox, and an eagle. In the spandrils of the beautiful arches of this tower are shields, charged as foUows : — On the east the paUium, the papal insignia of Archiepiscopal au thority, and the arms of St. Wilfrid ; on the north the arms assigned to the Saxon Kings Edwin and Edmund the martyr ; on the south the peculiar arms of the See, and those of Walter Skirlaw, the great benefactor of this part of the building ; and on the west those of Edward the Confessor, with the arms of England emblazoned in such a manner as to prove that the tower was not completed tiU the reign of Henry V. or Henry VL, who were the flrst that altered the old French bearing. Nothing finer than the interior of the lantern can be imagined ; the windows are of a size sufficient to fiU the whole interior with a brilliant light, and, it may be added, that the im* mense height of the vaulting fiUs the mind with a feeling of vastness not easily forgotteUi The tower forms a magnificent vestibule to the choir. The Stone Organ Screen, which stands between the two easternmost piers of the tower, and divides the nave from the choir, is a curious and elaborate piece of workmanship, the history of which is not precisely known. The doorway in the screen, which is the entrance to the choir, and which is not exactly in the centre, is a pointed arch, the jambs having attached columns with leaved capitals, with an ogee canopy terminated with a crocketed finial. In this doorway is an iron gate of curious design. There are also corres ponding gates at the entrance to the side aisles of the choir. These gates 444 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. were formerly of wood. The western face, or exterior of the screen, is com-' posed of fifteen compartments, containing a series of richly canopied nicheSj in which are placed on elegant pedestals the statues of the Kings of England, ranged in chronological order, from WUUam the Conqueror to Henry VI., in their ancient regal costume. The name of each statue is inscribed on its pedestal in Latin. Above the niches are narrow shrines richly canopied, and containing two rows of small but elegant full length winged figures, repre senting the angelic choir ; and above the rich tabernacle work is a row of demi-angels. This screen is gorgeous in the extreme, the bands of delicate tracery with which it is adorned are most elaborately sculptured. It would seem that the artist was determined to charge every part with ornament, and to exert the fuUest latitude of fancy in giving variety and intricacy to its complicated members. The statues of the Kings are nearly of the natural size. There are seven figures on the north side and eight on the south side, viz. : — North Side — WiUiam I., WiUiam IL, Henry L, Stephen, Henry H., Eichard I., and John. South Side—Rewcj IIL, Edward I., Edward IL, Edward HI., Eichard IL, Henry IV., Henry V., and Henry VI. The niche filled by the statue of Henry VI. was long occupied by one of James I. Tradition reports that this niche was originaUy fiUed by a statue of " that weak, but reputedly pious Monarch," Henry VL, and that it was taken down to " prevent the stupid adoration of the lower ranks of the people," who commiserated the misfortunes of that iU-fated King to a very great extent, " But it is more probable," writes Mr, Baines, " that it was his successor Edward IV,, who, being the sun of the political firmament, became the object of adoration, and that to him the homage of courtly devotion was offered by removing the statue of his rival. For some ages," the same writer continues, " the place remained unoccupied, but on the visit of James I, to York, he was compU- mented by being placed in the empty ceU,"* Dr, Milner conjectures that this screen was taken from the Church of St, Mary's Abbey in this City, that it lay at the Manor Palace for many years, that King James I, presented it to the Cathedral, and that in compUment to him the Dean and Chapter placed the statue in the vacant niche. The statue of James has been trans ferred to Ripon Minster, and the present weU executed flgure of Henry VL, the work of Mr. Michael Taylor, a native artist, was set up during the present century. From the statue of this Monarch having been the last of the series, it has been inferred that the screen was executed towards the end * Gazetteer of Yorkshire, vol. u., p. 39. HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. 445 of his reign. Many of the smaUer parts of the screen have been restored by Bernasconi. Above this screen, and occupying tho site of the ancient rood, or representation of the Crucifixion of Our Saviour, is the organ. After the fire in 1839, it was proposed to place the organ and screen further eastward, so as to bring more into sight the magnificent pillars that support the central tower, but so much opposition was made to it, that the plan was abandoned. The Choir. — It would be difficult to imagine anything more solemn, beau tiful, or gorgeous than this division of the Church, with its immense east window, elegant altar screen, pulpit throne, and tabernacle carvings over the staUs, when viewed from the archway under the organ. The architecture of the choir is more ornamental in its character than that of the nave, although the general style of the decoration is similar. The roof, which is wood, is loftier, and more intricately groined, and the bosses are more numerous, than the nave, and an elegant kind of festoon work descends from the capitals of the piUars, from which the vaulting springs. The side elevation of the great or central aisles of this portion, like the other parts of the edifice, is made into three stories. The principal arcade differs but little from the nave ; aud the intervals between the arches are embeUished with shields of armorial bearings. The openings of the triforium, or gallery story, consists of a series of five cinquefoiled arches, with canopies and crocketed finials, divided in the centre by horizontal transoms ; and a stone rail in front forms a protection to the persons who may be stationed there. In the clerestory is a beautiful range of windows of five lights, with cinquefoiled heads, having the crown of the arch enriched with elegant tracery. The walls of the aisles of the choir are panelled, and enriched with tracery corresponding with the character of the windows. The windows of the aisles have three lights, with perpendicular divisions in the heads of the arches, but the design is far less elegant than the nave. The same simple stone roof, which covers the aisles of the nave, is used in these aisles. The introduction of the smaUer transept does not break the continuity of the great arcade, but the only part in which it enters into the design, is at the clerestory; the window, with its gallery, being omitted, and a paneUed breast-work placed on the cornice over the point of the arch, thus aUowing a view of the lofty window and handsome groined ceUing of this singular appendage to be obtained from the choir. The effect of this transept, when viewed from near the pulpit, is remarkably beautiful. The shields of arms in the choir are as foUows : — South Side — Cross of St. George, the Saxon Monarchs Edward the Confessor, Edwin and Oswald; Mortimer, Ulphus, and Percy ; the same quartering Lucy, Scrope, Skirlaw, Roos, Neville Earls of Westmorland, the City of York, Montague Earls of 446 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. Salisbury, Beauchamp Earls of Warwick, Lacy, and the Eoyal Arms of England, anterior to Henry V. North Side— Vavasour, NeviUe, Danby or Fitzhugh, St. WiUiam, badges of the See of St. WUfrid, Emblems of the Passion of our Lord, Greystock, Latimer, CUfford Earls of Cumberland, Bohun Earls of Hereford, the Royal Arms of England, a Prince of Wales, Longespee Earls of Salisbury. Little Transept SomJA— Dacre, Beauchamp, Percy, and Vavasour; iVortA— CUfford, Latimer, Danby, PoUington, NeviUe, and Scrope. Behind the present altar or communion table, to which is an ascent of fifteen steps, is a beautiful stone screen, of Gothic architecture, divided into eight uniform compartments by slender paneUed buttresses, terminated with crocketed pinnacles. Each compartment contains in the lower division a triple shrine of niches, and in the upper an open arch, separated by slender muUions into three divisions, surmounted by a square head of which the spandrils Sre pierced in quatrefoU circles ; and above these is a deUcate open embattled parapet. The intervals of this exquisitely wrought screen have been fiUed with plate glass, affording a view of the eastern portion of the choir, and of the superb east window. This screen, which is forty-nine feet in length, and twenty-eight feet high, is one of the most beautiful specimens of pierced stone work in England. Before the Reformation the high altar stood one arch further westward, and immediately behind it was a large wooden screen handsomely painted and gilded, which obscured the present stone erection, and obstructed the view of a great part of the fine east window from the choir. At each end of this screen was a door, which opened into a smaU room behind the altar, caUed the sanctum sanctorum, in whioh, anciently, the Archbishop used to robe at the time of his enthronization, and from thence proceed to the high altar, where he was invested with the paUium ; and above it was a gaUery, with desks in the form of battlements, for the musicians required in the celebration of the gorgeous services of the CathoUc Church. In 1736 this wooden screen was puUed down ; the altar carried back to where it now stands ; and in 1760 a piece of tapestry was removed which hung before the present screen. By these alterations a view of one of the noblest Ughts in the world has been opened, and this magnificent stone screeur— esteemed by the curious one of the greatest beauties of the church — brought into view. The altar railing is also of cut stone. The space between this screen and the eastern end of the church was formerly a Chapel, dedicated to God, in honour of the Blessed Virgin, com monly called the Ladye Chapelle. This was the most remaj'kable of the many chapels which were in this church. It was founded by Archbishop HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 447 Thoresby, who, according to Stubbs, "as a true respecter of the Virgin Mother of God, adorned it with wonderful sculpture and painting." At the Reformation the works of art in this Chapel were torn to pieces and des troyed. Mr. Ralph Thoresby, the northern antiquary, had a large piece of carved work, which, in his Ducatus Leodiensis, he tells us, was discovered in the beginning of the last century, " between two walls, in a private house, in the neighbourhood of the Minster, and sold by parcels to statuaries and others for common use." Thoresby supposing that piece of statuary work to have belonged to the Ladye Chapel, preserved it as a great curiosity, and as a tribute of respect to the memory of Archbishop Thoresby, his ancestor ; and his regret for the destruction of this curious Chapel, makes him break out in the words of the psalmist, " A man was famous as he had lifted up axes upon the thick tree, but now they break down the carved work thereof with axes and hammers." In 1835 were found buried in the premises of the late Mr. Swineard, surgeon, in Precentor's Court, opposite the western front of the Cathedral, a beautiful piece of carved stone work, which is now in the Yorkshire Museum, and which the Rev. C. WeUbeloved, the learned Curator of Antiquities, says is most probably another portion of the carved work of which Mr. Thoresby speaks. " But the style and character of these re mains," he adds, " are clearly of a later age than that of Archbishop Thoresby. They appear to have belonged to a magnificent shrine ; and such a shrine may have been erected behind the high altar in what is usually denominated the Lady Chapel; and it may have been one of those which Henry VIU., during his visit to York in the year 1541, ordered to be taken down.* Wherever it may have been placed, and whenever removed, large portions of it appear to have been collected, and carefuUy concealed in his private resi dence by some one, who hoped the time would come when it might be set up again in its original beauty in its proper place, "f Another portion of one of the niches of this shrine, which had been long affixed to the north-east side of the exterior of CUfford's Tower, has been re cently removed to the Museum ; as well as a part of the ornamental work of the same shrine, which had been placed several years ago in the garden of the late Robert Driffield, Esq., on the Mount without Micklegate Bar ; and smaller fragments of this beautiful work may be seen inserted as ornaments in the walls of several houses in York. * See Mr. Hunter's " Account of King, Henry the Eighth's Progress in Yorkshire." Published in Memoirs iUustrative of the Antiq. of York by the Archseol, Institute, ¦I- Descriptive Account of the Antiquities in the Grounds of the Museum. 448 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK, The Lady Chapel is now chiefly remarkable for the number of monuments it contains. The north side of it (the east end of the north aisle of the choir, was formerly a Chapel dedicated in honour of St. Steplien; and on its south side was the Chapel of All Saints. In Dodsworth's CoUections, printed in Stephen's additional volumes to the Monasticon; and in Torre's Manuscripts will be found a catalogue of the numerous Chantries of this Church, with the names of their founders, original endowments, annual value, &c. The elaborate design of the great East Window is strengthened internally by a series of muUions placed at a short distance from, and exactly agreeing with those which contain the glazing. This is pecuUar to the present Church, Upon the second transom runs a gallery, fronted by a parapet, pierced with upright cinquefoil divisions, and from which an excllent view of the whole interior of the Church may be obtained. The dados of this window, as weU as of those at the extremities of the aisles are richly panelled, and the jambs are 'ornamented- with niches. The pavement of the choir, including the Lady Chapel, is beautifuUy relaid in mosaic. The furniture of the choir is of the most magnificent description. The design of the oak pews and ornaments is very nearly a counterpart of those destroyed in 1839, The prebendal staUs, which range on both sides as far as the throne and the pulpit, are twenty in number, and there are six on each side of the entrance under the organ. These stalls are of oak, richly carved, and surmounted with canopies of tabernacle work. The names of many of the prebends to which they belong, are placed over them in carved oak letters. The seats or misereres are curiously carved,* The Dean occupies the first stall on the right, the Precentor the first on the left. The desks below the StaUs for the vicars choral and choristers, are panelled iu unison with the upper works. At the east end of the staUs are the Cathedra, or Archbishop's throne, and the pulpit, opposite to each other, bbth elaborately ornamented. In the middle of the choir is a reading desk, inclosed with tabernacle work ; and on the north side is a brazen eagle, from which the lessons are read. This eagle, which was presented by Dr. Cracroft in 1686, was saved with some difficulty from the fire in 1899. (See page 436). • In Cathedrals and most ancient Churches there were staUs or folding seats for those who sung in the choir ; and from hence it is that caiicellus and chorus— the chancel and the choir— are words used to signify the same part of the Church, These seats whioh were turned or folded upwards when the singers were to stand, were called misereres, or misericords, and when in that position they generally exhibit some curioubly cai-ved grotesque figures, or allegorical designs, which form altogether a record, or perhaps records, the key to whioh is irrecoverably lost. Many of the figures on such seats ap pear to have been copied from the tricks of the ancient joculators. HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. 449 The Organ is a conspicuous object on the top of the stone screen in nearly the centre of the Cathedral, In 1633 King Charles I, levied a fine of £1,000, upon Edward Paylor, Esq. (for some offence committed by that gentleman), and granted it to the Dean and Chapter for various purposes, one of which was the procuring of a new organ. A contract was accordingly entered into with Robert DaUam, of London, " Blacksmith," for a complete organ, which cost £610. By the King's desire, this organ was placed on the north side of the choir, nearly opposite the Archbishop's throne, so that it may not im pede the full view of the entire Cathedral; but it was afterwards placed over the stone screen by Archbishop Lamplugh, at the expense of the Earl of Strafford. This instrument was destroyed by the fire in 1839. The present magnificent organ, which is one of the largest and most powerful instruments of the kind in the world, as we have already said, was presented by the Right Hon. and Eev. J. L. Saville, Earl of Scarborough. Its specification was composed by Dr. Camidge, of York, the present organist, and it was buUt by Messrs. Elliott and Hill, of London, in 1837, and has since been considerably enlarged.* The exterior of the former instrument was different in form from the present, and was decorated with gilded pipes and figures. The pipes of the present organ are bronzed, and the case is of oak, simply carved. Some of the large pipes stand at the entrance to the south aisle of the choir. During the restoration of the great nave of the Church, after the fire of 1840, a v^all of brick was erected between the three aisles of the nave and the rest of the Church ; and by this contrivance the noise made by the workmen did not at aU interfere with the usual service in the choir. Beneath the altar is an ancient vault or Crypt, belonging to the old choir built by Archbishop Eoger. Its original extent cannot be ascertained, as the present portion of it is bounded by the comparatively modern work of the choir, and the sweep of the arches eastward is cut off by the solid work of the foundation of the altar screen. It is nearly square, and is divided into four aisles from east to west, each consisting of three arches, supported by six cylindrical columns five and a half feet in length. Although the general character of this portion of the crypt is Norman, yet it is so strangely mingled with architecture of a more modern date, that, taken as a whole, it may per haps be viewed as the workmanship of the eleventh or twelfth century. The * The great manual of this splendid instrument contains 4,818 pipes, the sweUing organ 1,586, the choir organ 1,399, and' the pedal organ 300 pipes. There are in this magnificent organ 80 stops and 8,000 pipes; it has eight bellows, eight couplers, eight composition pedals, and eight wind trunk valves, 3 M 450 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK, columns which support the groined arches appear to have been preserved from an older building, and put together with little care, as the bases are too large for the shafts, and in one instance a reversed capital is applied as a base. Some suppose that these columns formed a portion of the Church built in the eighth century, by St, Wilfrid, and were thus confusedly applied in the rebuilding the edifice after its destruction in 1069, The capitals of the pillars are all octagonal, five of them being of singular beauty of design. Professor Willis declares the crypt to be a mere piece of patch work, made during the fitting up of the choir in the fourteenth century, out of the old materials, to support a platform for the altar, and provide Chapels and altar room beneath it. The pavement is composed of glazed tiles, coloured alter nately blue and yeUow, and of very ancient date. It is recorded that before the Eeformation there were seven altars or chantries in the crypt, and the remains of three of them are still visible. One of these was designated the Chantry at the altar of St, Mary in cryptis. In the crypt is a lavatory like that at Lincoln, but its base is quite plain ; it has a hole in the centre for a pipe, and the drain is covered by a figure like a monkey crouching over its cub. In one of the western arches near the lavatory is a deep draw well. Whilst the workmen were engaged iu taking up the broken floor of the choir after the disastrous fire of 1839, they came in contact with the top of a massive pillar. This led to a further investigation, and a search was made the whole length of the choir, when the remains of the Saxon edifice built by Edwin or Oswald, and the Norman choirs erected by Archbishops Thomas and Eoger, were discovered. This excavation extends from the western wall of the crypt, under the choir, as far as the two great columns which sup ported the lantern tower, and the interesting remains of the ancient Church have been arched over, and are open to the inspection of the curious. On entering the series of vaults which lead westward from the crypt, are seen six beautiful piUars of the Norman Church (three on each side) seven feet long and six feet in diameter. The capitals of some of these piUars are curi ously sculptured, and from them spring the mouldings of a groined vaulting. In the intermediate space between each pair of these columns are the bases of two smaUer ones ; and on the north side is an aisle, at the west end of which is a very beautiful twisted column, of deUcate workmanship. The outer part of the Church may stiU be seen, the buttresses and waUs being in a state of beautiful preservation. Amongst these ruins of the Norman Church is an ancient tomb covered with a large slab. An ascent on the westward leads into the Saxon edifice, where we have a fine specimen of the architecture of that period, considered equal to any in England. It consists HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK, 451 of a portion of the walls of the Church. These walls, which are composed of limestone and sandstone, are nearly six feet in thickness, and the stones are laid in the herring bone manner, forming courses eight inches thick. The three extraneous Chapels already referred to are entered from the south aisle of the choir. These buildings, originaUy built for chantry Chapels, were begun by Archbishop de la Zouch, to whom a licence was granted for that purpose, by the Dean and Chapter, on the 14th of June, 1353, One of these Chapels is now used as a Vestry ; another, since the year 1840, has been used as the Record Office of the Dean and Chapter ; and the third is the room in which the Ecclesiastical Couri is held. In the one used as the Eecord Office is a weU, caUed St. Peter's Well, and chemists attribute the excellence of the water to the small portions of limestone, washed into it by the rain, from the walls of the edifice. One of these Chapels was formerly used as a Treasury, and in it were kept all the rent, revenues, grants, and charters, with the common seal belonging to the Church ; and a particular officer was appointed to inspect and take oare of them. In the large inventory* of the riches belonging to this Cathedral, taken in the reign of Edward VL, is an account of the money then in St. Peter's Chest, which was soon after seized upon, and the trea surer's office dissolved ; for a very good reason, says Mr. Willis, " when all the treasure was swept away, the office of treasurer ceased of course." Relics. — In the vestry several antique relics are deposited, the most curious and remarkable of whioh is the Horn of Ulphus, given with all his property to the Church of St. Peter of York. Ulphus, son of Toraldus, was a Saxon Prince of Deira,-]- who bequeathed to the Cathedral all his property, to be held by the evidence of this horn. Camden states the occasion and form of the bequest, as an instance of a singular mode of endowment formerly used ; and Dugdale relates respecting it, that " Ulphe, son of Thorald, who ruled * This inventory is given in Dugdale's Monasticon, and from it we learn that amongst the costly furniture, plate, &a., were many chaUoes of gold, and of sUver, gUt and plain j several cups, boxes, censors, crewits, salts, paxes, ampules, pectorals, crucifixes, chris- matories, candlesticks, &c., of gold and sUver. Copes of cloth of gold and velvet, some embroidered, others set with pearl. Several mitres, the best of which contained 53 pointed diamonds, 51 sapphires, and 32 great pearls. Among the reUcs are specified some bones of St. Peter; part of the hair of St, William ; the arm of St. Wilfred ; two thorns of the crown of Our Saviour; a tooth of St, AppoUonia ; part of the brain of St. Stephen ; and a cloth stained with the blood of Archbishop Scrope, + The word Deira is supposed to be derived from the Saxon Deor, signifying wild ieasts, with which the woods in the ancient Kingdom of Deira, now the northern counties (see page 71) were infested. 453 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. in the west of Deira, by reason of the difference which was likely to rise between his sons, about the sharing of his lands and lordships after his death, resolved to make them aU aUke, and thereupon coming to York with that horn which he used to drink, fiUed it with wine, and before the altar of God and Saint Peter, Prince of the Apostles, kneeling, devoutly drank the wine, and by that ceremony enfeoffed this Church with aU his lands and revenues." Several lands, part of this donation, and situated on the east side of York, are still held by the Church, and are caUed de Terra Ulphi.* As a relic of Saxon art this horn is very valuable; it is made of an elephant's tusk, is twenty-nine inches in length, curiously carved and polished, and was originally ornamented with gold and mounting. It is said that after the surrender of York to the Parliamentarian army, in 1644, the horn was taken from the Minster and denuded of its golden appendages, but it was probably stolen from the Church at the period of tlie Eeformation. It is evident from Camden's remarks, that the horn was not there when he wrote in 1607. "I was informed," says he, "that this great curiosity was kept in the Church tiU the last age." It somehow came into the possession of Thomas Lord Fairfax, and his successor Henry Lord Fairfax restored it to the Cathedral. The Dean and Chapter redecorated it with brass instead of gold, and caused a Latin inscription to be engraved upon itj which may be thus translated : — " This hom, Ulphus, Prince of the western parts of Deira, originally gave to the Church of St. Peter, together with all his lands and revenues. Henry Lord Fairfax at last restored it, when it had been lost or conveyed away. The Dean and Chapter decorated it anew, a.d. 1675." A sculptured bass relief of this interesting horn may be seen above the arches of the choir and nave, in a Une with various shields commemorative of the different bene factors of the Cathedral. A curious cup or bowl is also in the vestry, caUed Archbishop Scrope's Indulgence Cup. This elegant cup stands on three feet, and is ornamented inside with the arms of the Cordwaiuers' Company ; the rim, which is edged round with silver gUt, has the following inscription : — " Bicharde arche beschope Scrope grant unto all tho that drinkis of this cope XLti dayes to pardon. Eobert Gobson besbhope mesm grant in same form aforesaid XLti dayes to pardon. Eobert Strensall. • In ancient times there are several instances of estates that were passed without any writings at aU, by the lord's deUvery of such pledges as a sword, a hehnet, a hom, a cup, a bow or arrow. Ingulphus tells us that such grants were made " merely by word of mouth, without any writing or paper, only by the lord's deUvery of a sword, hehnet, or horn." HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. 453 " Popular tradition has usually stated," says the editor of York and its Environs, " that this cup was presented by Scrope to the Cordwainer's Com pany, but recent investigation has proved this to be erroneous, aud it is now pretty much proved to have been originally given to the York guild of Corpus Christi ; a Corporation which distinguished itself for the sumptuous manner in which the incorporated trades and crafts of the City celebrated the religious festival of Corpus Christi, by the exhibition of pageants and miracle plays, which every year attracted many persons of rank and importance to witness their representation. After the dissolution of the guild, this cup passed into other hands, but when it came into the possession of the Cord waiuers' Company is unknown. On the dissolution of this Company in 1808, it was presented by Mr. Hornby (the last master of the Company) to the Cathedral." A large silver crosier, or pastoral staff, is also kept in the vestry, and ex hibited to visitors. This crosier was given by Catherine of Portugal, Queen Dowager of Charles II. of England, to Cardinal Smith, her Confessor, when he was nominated to the See of York, oy James II., in 1687. It is re corded that as the Cardinal was going to the Cathedral, in procession- from the Catholic Chapel established by James in the Manor Palace, Lord Danby, (afterwards Duke of Leeds) wrested the crosier from him, and afterwards presented it to the Dean and Chapter. It is six and a half feet in length, weighs thirteen pounds, and under the bend of the crook are figures of the Blessed Virgin and Infant Saviour, as well as the arms of Portugal on one side, and those of the Prelate with a mitre and crosier surmounted by a Cardinal's hat, on the other. WhUst taking up the old pavement in 1736, the pastoral ring of Arch bishop Sewel, who died in 1358, was found, consisting of a plain ruby set in gold ; Archbishop Greenfield's, who died in 1315, a ruby set in gold ; and also that of Archbishop Bowet, who died in 1433. The latter is a com position set it gold, bearing the motto, "Honor et Joy." These rings, together with three sUver chalices, also found in the graves of these pre lates, are deposited iu the vestry, as well as an antique wooden head, found on opening the grave of Archbishop Rotherham, who died of the plague in 1500. As the body of this prelate was immediately interred without cere mony, it is probable that at his funeral, which took place when the pestilence was abated, a wooden effigy, of whioh this head is a part, was substituted for the real corpse. There is also preserved the old copy of the Bible with its chain, that was formerly attached to a low desk near the door in the south aisle of the choir, opening into the Minster Yard. 454 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. An antique chair, said to be coeval with the Cathedral, and in which several of the Saxon Kings were crowned, and which was used at the corona tion of Edward IV. and James I., is now placed within the communion rails. The Windows of the Cathedral are richly adorned with the representa tions of Scriptural history. Saints, Kings, legends, shields, &c., in painted glass.* About one hundred of them are embellished with ancient devices, whilst only six are of modern date. It is rather remarkable that though the choir was so near being consumed in the fire of 1839, none of the painted glass was materially impaired ; and with the exception of the damage to the windows at the extreme west end of the aisles of the nave, the same remark may be applied to that part of the building with reference to the fire of 1840. The magnificent East Window, the greatest Ught in the Minster, and which for masonry and ancient glazing is unequalled, consists of nine lights, and occupies almost the whole of the east end of the choir. The height of this great window is seventy-five feet ; it is thirty-two feet in breadth ; and is embeUished with nearly two hundred subjects from sacred history. " This window," says Drake, "may be justly caUed the wonder of the world, both for masonry and glazing ; " and as has already been observed, Mr. Pugin considered it the finest window in the world. " It is near the breadth and height of the middle choir. The upper part is an admirable piece of tracery, below which are one hundred and seventeen partitions, representing so much of Holy Writ, that it almost takes in the whole history of the Bible. This window was begun to be glazed at the charge of the Dean and Chapter, in 1405, who had contracted with John Thornton, of Coventry, glazier, to execute it." (See page 495). " We may suppose this man," he continues, " to have been the best artist in his time for this kind of work, by their sending so far for him ; and indeed the window shews it.'' " The east window surpasses aU that the pen can describe, or pencU pour- tray," writes AUen, "if we consider it in the whole, as to extent, ingenuity of design, or richness of execution." Each pane of glass is about a yard square ; the figures in general are about two feet two inches to two feet four inches high, and the heads are most beautifuUy drawn. The foUowing is a detailed description of this window : — The top contains a representation of Our Saviour in Heavenly Glory sur rounded by Angels, Prophets, Patriarchs, Apostles, Confessors, and Martyrs. * Glass windows were not used in England before tiie year 675. The frames were usually fiUed with lattice work or floe linen cloth.— Turn. Ang. Sax., vol. u., p. 416. HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK, 455 Between this and the gallery are three partitions, with designs from the Old Testament, as follows : — First Partition. — The 1st compartment in this partition represents God creating the world, with the fallen angels beneath. 2. — The spirit of God dividing the waters, 3, — The herbs of the field, 4. — Light and darkness, {This and the precedent pane seem to have been transposed.) 5, — Birds and Fishes, 6, — Beasts and creeping things, with the creation of man, 7, — God with his face Uke the sun in glory, sitting in the middle of his Creation, seeing every thing was good. 8, — Adam and Eve eating the forbidden fruit in Paradise ; the serpent represented with its head like a beautiful woman. 9. — An Angel driving them out of Paradise. Second Partition. — 1. — Cain kUUng his brother Abel. 2. — Noah in his Ark. 3. — Noah drunk, and his three sons, 4, — BuUding of Babel. 5. — Melchizedek blessing Abram. 6. — Isaac blessing Jacob, 7, — Meeting of Jacob and Esau, 8, — Moses and Aaron joining hand in hand, 9, — ^Jacob's sons shewing him Joseph's bloody coat. Third Partition. — 1. — Moses found by Pharoah's daughter. 2. — God out of the bush caUiag Moses. 3. — Moses and Aaron before Pharoah ; the Eod turned into a serpent, 4. — Pharoah and his host drowned in the Eed Sea, 5. — Moses receiving the law on Mount Sinaii, 6. — Moses rearing up the brazen serpent in the wUderness, 7. — Sampson pulling down the house of Dagon on himself and the Philistines, 8, — David kiUing GoUah with a sUng. 9, — ^Joab kiUing Absalom hanging on the tree. Of the ten partitions below the gallery, nine contain the principal subjects in the Book of Revelations, and the last one is occupied with representations of different Ecclesiastics, Kings," &o., whose names are connected with the early history of the Churh in this part of Britain, They are as foUows : — First Partition. — 1, 2, and 3, — St. John in the caldron of oil, banished by the Em peror Domitian, and saiUng to the island of Patmos. 4, — An Angel coming unto St. John, as at his devotion, 5, — The Son of Man amidst the seven candlesticks, 6, — The Seven Churches of Asia, 7, 8, and 9. — The Elders worshipping God on the throne. Second Partition. — 1, — Angel sounding a trumpet, 2, — The lion of the Tribe of Judah, 3. — The Lamb, the Four Beasts, and Elders, 4. — A MiUtitude foUowing the Lamb. 5. — The Lamb opening first seal, the white horse and its rider with a bow, 6. — Lamb opening the second seal, the red horse and its rider, 7, — ^The fourth seal opened, the pale horse and death. 8, — The sixth seal opened, sun, moon, &o, 9. — The third seal opened ; the black horse, its rider, having a balance, (But these, as several others, have been misplaced since the restoration of the windows by General Fairfax). Third Partition. — 1. — Angels holding the four winds, and another ascending, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. — Angels and Elders about the throne, 7. — Opening the seventh seal. 8. Giving the seven angels trumpets, 9. — The fifth seal, souls under the altar. Fourth Partition. — 1, 2, 3, — ^Angels sounding, 4, — Locusts Uke men, 5. — Our Sa- viour with a Lamb, the four Evangelists, and a book sealed with seven seals, 6, Armies of horse, 7, — The Angel opening the book, 8, — John eating the book. 9, The Temple from whence the voice came. Fifth Partition. — 1, 3, 3. — Two witnesses slain in the City, and ascending up, 4. Elders worshipping, 5. — Ark of the testament. The woman clothed with the sun in 456 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. travaU, and the dragon appearing .to devour her chUd. 7.— Michael warring against the dragon. 8.— The woman flying into the wUderness, and the dragon casting out a flood of waters to overwhelm her. 9.— Another beast risen from the earth. Sixth Partition.— l.—Dia.goa sceptered, giving power to the beast with seven heads and ten horns. 3,— The worid worshipping the monster, 3.— An Angel pouring out a vial on the afflicted people, 4,— People worshipping the beast, 5.— The third Angel pouring his vial on the rivers, 6,— Another Angel with the Gospel, 7,— The Angel over Babylon pronouncing the faU thereof, 8,— Christ with a sickle, &c, 9,— Angel ti-eading the wine-press to the horses' bridles. Seventh Partition.— 1.— 'Elders with their harps on a, sea of glass, 2.— One of the four beasts giving the Angels the seven vials of wrath, 3,— Beasts waning with the saints, 4,— Angel pouring a vial on the sea, 5,— Victory of the Lamb, 6,— Fourth Angel pouring a vial on sun, &c, 7,— The fifth Angel pouring a vial on the seat of the beast, 8,— Unclean spirits, &c., going to battie. 9.— Angel pouring a vial on the river Euphrates, which runs by Babylon. (Note, the precedent two panes are misplaced). Eighth Partition.— I.— The whore sitting npon the beast. 3.— Babylon's faU. 3.— God praised in Heaven. 4.— St. Johu falUng at tbe Angel's feet. 5.— Heaven opened ; one on a white horse, armies, &o. 6.— Angel crying to the fowls. 7.— Beast, Kings, and Armies. 8. — Beast taken. 9. — Angel casting him into the bottomless pit. Ninth Partition. — 1. — Saints on thrones. 3. — Satan loosed out of prison. 3, 4, 5, and 6. — The sea, death, and heU, delivering up their dead, who stand before Christ as in judgment (attended by angeUc powers holding tbe instruments of his passion, whUe the books are opened by other Angels), on his right hand are the blessed, and on the left the wicked. 7. — New heaven and new earth. 8. — New Jerusalem, over which is Christ enthroned, an Angel with a vial and golden reed, St. John beholding, " and the pure river of water of life, clear as crystal, proceeding oiit of the throne of God and of the Lamb." 9. — Our Saviour appearing with a book opened, on which is written. Ego, Alpha, and Omega, and St. John writing the wonderful things he had seen. Tenth Partition. — 1. — Pope Gregory VH., and Archbishop Thomas I. 2, 3, and 4, are nine Kings, viz., Ethelbert, Lucius, Ceolwulph, Edwin, Oswald, Oswin, Edward the Confessor, Harold, and WUliam the Conqueror. Archbishop Aldred at prayers, 5. — ^Archbishop le Zouch, with St. Augustine and St. Honorius, Archbishops of Canter bury. 7.— St. Paulinus, Pope Eleutherius, and St. WUfrid. 8. — St. John of Beverley; St. Calixtus Bishop of Eome, and St. Egbert, King Ebianos, between two Flamines or Heathen Priests ; one of these high priests being dignified with the title of Proto-flam or first flam, the other with Arch-flam only. The windows of the Uttle transepts in the choir, which are remarkably high and elegant, are divided into one hundred and eight compartments, fiUed with extremely fine paintings, iUustrative of some passage of Holy Writ, or of ceremonies connected with the Church. The great window over the west entrance to the Church, though of con siderable size, is inferior to the eastern Ught. The tracery of the upper part of the window is rich and intricate, and the meUowed rays of Ught, as they come upon the eye through the stained glass of the lower divisions, is pecu- HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 457 Uarly fine, Tho figures in the upper row represent Eeligious at their de votions. Those in the middle row are the Apostles, &c., as St. Peter, St. Paul, St, John, &c. Then follow the largest effigies, which are the eight Saints of the See, viz., PauUnus, Bosa, John of Beverley, Wilfrid I., Egber- tus, Oswaldus, Gulielmus, and Servallus. The west window of the north aisle of the nave has representations of St. Catherine, St. Peter, St. Paul, and Christ in Judgment. The first window from the west is plain ; the second contains the Annunciation, the Wise Men's Offering, the Salutation of St. Elizabeth, and the Arms of the In- grams aud Grevilles ; the third has the Crucifixion of St. Peter, and Con fession, Penance, and Absolution ; the fourth, the Crucifixion of our Lord, Christ before Pilate, and the Arms of the Strongbows per paled with the Mowbrays; the fifth, the Crucifixion, and other subjects; the sixth is very curious, and is suppposed to have been given to the Cathedral by the bell founders ; and the seventh, and last in this aisle, represents St. Catherine, St, Alban, and several curious legends. In the lower part of the window are the Eoyal Arms of England, and those of the Queens Eleanor of Castile, Eleanor of Provence, and Isabella of France, The window at the west end of the south aisle contains the Crucifixion, with the Blessed Virgin and St, John the Evangelist on either side. The first window from the west is plain ; the second has St. Peter, St, Christopher, and St, Lawrence ; and the re maining windows of this aisle have been made up of various subjects, princi pally saints and legends. The third has the date 1789, and the sixth and seventh that of 1783, In the latter window is a very old representation of the Crucifixion. The beautiful lancet window of five lights, in the north front of the north transept is one of the chief ornaments of the Church, The chaste but severe simplicity of these lights strike the eye of the beholder immediately on en tering the Cathedral, No finer examples of Early English windows can be found in this country. The lights, which are each fifty-four feet in height and five and a half feet in breadth, are filled with mosaic work, of an ex tremely rich and varied pattern, and their effect is beautiful. This is some times called the Jewish Window, probably from the resemblance it bears to the embroidery or needlework whioh was used in adorning the ancient Jewish Tabernacles, As has already been observed, this window has been tradition ally named the Five Sisters, from its having been presented to the Cathedral by five sisters (nuns), who wrought with their own hands the patterns for the stained glass devices. The small rim of clear glass round the edges is a modern addition, and gives it a very pleasing effect. In the south transept 3 N 458 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK, the upper or marigold window has a fine effect from the brilUancy of its coloured glass resembUng that flower. The first window in the second tier of this front of the transept has a full-length figure of St, WiUiam ; the second, which is of two lights, has effigies of St, Peter and St, Paul, eaoh with his proper insignia beneath him ; and in the next window is the effigy of St, WUfred, The windows of the lowermost tier are of modern workman ship, having being executed by Mr. WiUiam Peckitt, of York, a self-taught artist, who died in 1795, They contain very elegant full-length figures of Abram, representing i<'aii/i ; Solomon, representing TraiA ; Moses, Righteous ness ; and St. Peter. The window representing St. Peter was set up in 1768, and the others in 1796. The former was presented to the Cathedral ,by the artist in his lifetime, and the others were bequeathed at his death. In the east aisle of this transept is some of the oldest glass in the Church, rep resenting full-lengths of St. Michael, St. George, the Blessed Virgin, &,nd Archbishop of St. WilUam. The glass in the choir is very fine and curious. In the first window from the west in the north aisle are representations of St. Peter and St. Paul, the Blessed Virgin, and Archbishop Bowett, at an altar. The second has full- length figures of St. John of Beverley, Archbishop Scrope, and St. WUliam, with several curious legends ; the third contains several full-length effigies of Bishops with legends ; the fourth is the smaU transept window ; the fifth has figures of the Blessed Virgin and Infant Saviour, St. Anne and St. Elizabeth, with the infant Baptist; and round the window are the Arms of Archbishop Scrope ; the sixth exhibits St. Thomas, St. John, St. Edward the Confessor, and St. Johu the Baptist ; the seventh window is blank ; and the end window of the aisle has the Crucifixion, St. James, the Blessed Virgin, &c. In the first window from the west, in the south aisle of the choir, are fuU- length figures of David &,nd the Prophets Nehemiah and Malachy, with legends ; the second is filled with legends, principaUy Yrom the life of Christ ; the third has several Saints within borders of pomegranate branches and leaves; the fourth is the little transept window; the fifth is filled with lecends, much confused ; the sixth has King Edwin, St. John, St. James, ,&c. ; and the seventh, in the upper portion, has fuU lengths of Joseph of Arimathea and the Saxon King, Ina, the founder of Glastonbury Monastery. The Ibwe'r part of this window, conspicuous for its vivid colours, was pre sented by the Eari of CarUsle, in 1804. It is supposed to have been copied from a design of Sebastian del Piombo, the great favourite of Pope Clement VIIL, and was brought from the Church of St. Nicholas, in Rouen, in Nor- HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF tOEK. 459 mandy. The figures, which are as large as life, represent the meeting of tho Blessed Virgin and St. EUzabeth ; and the armorial bearings of the family of the noble donor occupy the compartments. The interior dimensions* of the Cathedral are as follows : — FEET. Length from E. to W 524J Breadth of tbe east end 105 Breadth of the west end 109 Length of cross aisles from N. to S. 222 Height of central tower 313 Height of the nave 99 Breadth of body and side aisles . . 109 Height of the side arches N. to S. , 43 From west door to the choir 361 Length of the choir 157J Breadth of the choir 46^ UEET. From the choir to east end 333 From altar screen to east end , . . . 36 Height of the east window 75 Breadth of the east window 32 Height of ceUing of chapter house . , 67 Diameter from glass to glass 63 Length of the Ubrary 56 Breadth of the library 22 Height of the cornice 22 Height of the organ screen 24 Breadth of the organ screen 50 Monuments. — -The mortal remains of a very considerable number of per sons of rank and distinction are deposited in this ancient Temple. The head of Edwin, the first Christian King of Northumberland, who died in 663, was interred here, and his body in the Abbey of Whitby. History also records, amongst the distinguished persons buried here, the names of Eadbert and Eanbald, Kings of Northumberland; Sweyne, King of Denmark; Tosti, Earl of Northumberland, brother of Harold ; WilUam de Hatfield, second son of Edward III, ; and a very large proportion of the Archbishops who have presided over the See, from the introduction of Christianity into this province * Table of comparative dimensions of the principal Cathedrals in England, in feet. ¦3 . u li1 MO 11^ 5¦Si (90 Isii ¦b"3 U 1¦S.b ti a k1 tD is SI "sl H York 542514 233 140 109 74 261 214 99 80 157150 9980 196130 313 335 Canterbury Durham 430 176 80 240 70 117 71 143 313 Ely 517 178 73 327 70 101 70 370 113 Gloucester 420 144 84 174 67 130 86 261 498 500 227248 83 107 252306 83 88 158105 88 370 331 288 356 St, Paul's SaUsbury 452 210 76 246 84 140 84 400 Westminster 489 189 96 130 101 153 101 Winchester 554 208 86 347 78 138 78 133 133 460 HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OF TOEK. to the present day. The principal tombs and monuments occupy the aisles on each side of the choir, and the Lady Chapel behind the altar screen ; but there are a few tombs and inscriptions in the other parts of the Cathedral. On entering the Church at the usual door in the south front, the first monu ment that attracts the stranger's attention is situated in the eastern aisle of the south transept, and is the tomb of Archbishop Walter de Grey, the founder of this part of the Cathedral, who died in 1355 ; the founders of Cathedrals being usually buried in the portion in which they themselves buUt. The design of this monument, which is one of the most interesting in the Church, is particularly elegant. It is a beautiful relic of the thirteenth century, con sisting of two stories, or tiers of trefoU arches, supported by eight slender columns, with capitals of luxuriant foliage, sustaining a canopy divided into eight niches, with angular pediments, decorated with elaborate finials. These are enriched with figures of birds, foUage, &c. ; and the sweep of the pediment has several crockets running up its exterior moulding. On a flat tomb, under the canopy, is an effigy of the Archbishop in his pontifical robes. This monument is inclosed by a bronzed iron raiUng, of rich and elaborate work manship, erected by the late Archbishop Markham. The pillars supporting the canopy are of black marble, eight feet in height. This is one of the earliest examples of canopied tombs remaining in this country. By the side of this monument is another of a flat tabular form, supposed to contain the remains of Archbishop Godfrey de Ludham, otherwise Kineton, who died in 1364. In the western side of the north transept is a flat tomb of black marble, supported by iron trellis, two and a half feet high, to the memory of John Haxby, Treasurer of the Cathedral, who died in 1494. Within the grating is a dilapidated stone figure, representing a wasted corpse in a win ding sheet. A.ccording to stipulations in certain ancient deeds, payments of the Cathedral revenues should be, and, we believe, sometimes are made on this tomb. In the eastern aisle of the north transept is a very beautiful monument erected over the grave of Archbishop Greftfeld, who died in 1316. It consists of an altar tomb, the dado enriched with paneUiug of pointed arches. From the ends rise four dwarf columns, supporting a pedimental canopy, ornamented with crockets, which terminate in a superb finial, behind which, on a column, is a smaU statue of the Archbishop, in the act of giving the benediction. On the tomb is the fuU-length effigy of the prelate engraved in brass, habited in pontificalibis. The whole is an interesting specimen of the time of Henry VI. It was behind this monument that the incendiary Martin concealed himself, after attending service in the choir, befor.e setting HISTOEY OP THE C-*.THEDEAL OF YOEK. 461 the Minster on fire in 1839 ; and it was through the window in the end of the west aisle in this transept that he made his escape after the buUding was in flames. Opposite to the entrance to the Chapter House is a fine altar tomb to the memory of Steplien Beckwith, M.D., who died December 38rd, 1848. On the top is a beautiful whole length marble effigy of the deceased, lying supine, while in niches on the sides of the tomb are recorded his munificent be quests, as foUows : — To the Museum of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society, £10,000. ; the Minster BeUs and Chapter House, £5,000, ; the WUberforce School for the BUnd, £5,000, ; the Female Penitentiary, £5,000. ; the Blue Coat Boys' School, £3,500.; the Grey Coat Girls' School, £3,500,; the Dispensary, £8,500.; the Church of England School, £9,500, ; the Infant School, Skeldergate, £9,500, ; St. Thomas' Hospital, £3,500,; Lady Mid- dleton's Hospital, £9,500, ; aud to the poor of St, Martin's parish and the two parishes of BishophUl, £500, In the north end of the west aisle of the north transept, opposite Dr, Beckwith's monument, is a monument to the late Archbishop (Harcourt) of York, who died in 1847, and was buried at Nuneham Courtney, near Oxford, (See page 414), It is similar in design to the Dr, Beckwith's monument, and consists of a paneUed altar tomb, upon which reclines a fuU length figure in white marble, representing the deceased prelate. On a piUar in the south aisle of the nave is a brass plate, with the half length effigy of a woman in the costume of the period, with an inscription showing that there lies buried the body of Elizabeth Eymes, one of the gentle women of Queen Elizabeth, and daughter of Sir Edward Neville, who died in 1588, On the opposite side in the same aisle, on a brass plate, is a Latin inscription, with a half length effigy, in a fur gown, of James Cotrel, Esq., a native of Dublin, who resided some time at York, and died in 1595, In the waU of the north aisle of the nave is a low altar tomb, the dado ornamented with pierced quatrefoils, through which the coffin within it may be seen, and covered with a low pointed arch. This tomb is supposed to enclose the remains of Archbishop Roger, who fiUed the See of York, from 1154 to 1181, These are aU the monuments or inscriptions now remaining in the body of the church, though there were formerly many more. Entering the south aisle of the choir the monuments, in the order in which they occur, are as follows : — A white marble monument to Christopher E. T, OldflAd, a distinguished officer in the Indian army, who died at Nakodah, in the East Indies, in 1850, aged 45 years. The design is of the Italian school, and the workmanship is very beautiful. The base is of vein marble. *63 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. having in the centre a Eoman shield and helmet, with cross swords enclosed by a wreath. The tablet and upper portion of the monument are composed of pure statuary, being surmounted by a very elaborately executed combi- bination of military trophies, and the whole is placed on a ground of Galway black marble. It was erected in 1858, at the expence of the officers of the fifth regiment of Bengal Light Infantry, of which regiment the deceased was Major. Against the waU near the door of the vestry is a beautiful monument erected by the surviving officers of the 51st regiment (the 3nd regiment of the West Eiding of Yorkshire), to commemorate Major W. H. Hare, and the officers and non-commissioned officers and private soldiers of that regiment who feU in Burmah during the war of 1853-3. The monument is of white marble, exhibiting above the tablet a whole length figure in bold reUef, of an officer in fuU dress uniform, leaning pensively on his sword. Beneath the tablet is a marble roll containing the names of 303 non-commissioned officers and privates, who fell in Burmah during the campaign. In this locaUty is a smaU tablet to WiUiam Palmer, who died in 1605. A neat marble tablet, with two Doric columns supporting a pediment, to the memory of the Rt. Hon. Wm. Wickham, formerly of Cottingley in this county, who died in 1840, aged 79. A tablet to Jane Hodson, who died in 1636, in giving birth to her 34th child, herself being only in her 38th year. She was the wife of Phineas Hodson, Professor of Theology, and the ChanceUor of the Cathedral. It is a smaU compartment with two Corinthian columns, and a plain entablature with a pediment upon which are two weeping boys, coats of arms, an urn, and a long Latin inscription. The tomb of Sir Wm. Gee, of Bishop Burton, in this county, Knt., a Privy Councillor to James I., who died in 1611. On the tomb are effigies of himself, his two wives, and six children, all in the attitude of prayer, A small oval tablet containing a short inscription to the memory of Henry Witham, an officer in the Craven Legion, who was accidentally drowned in the river Ouse, whilst stationed at York, in 1809, It was erected by his brother officers, as a mark of respect to his memory. An antique monument to Archbishop Hutton, who died in 1605, The recumbent figure of the prelate is represented under an arch, which is supported by two Corinthian columns. The entablature is sur mounted by coats of arms ; and in front of the altar tomb, forming the basement of the monument, are three recessed arches, containing kneeling figures of the Archbishop's children, A marble monument, consisting of a large urn placed between two busts, one of whioh represents Henry Finch, Dean of York, who died in 1738, and the other the Hon, and Eev. Edward HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. 463 Finch, Canon Residentiary, who died in 1787. Above is a small pediment, and the family arms with an inscription. The monument of Nicliolas Wanton, Esq., of London, is a neat piece of architecture, with a figure in the attitude of prayer between Corinthian pi lasters. The inscription states that he died in 1617, and that his brother William is also interred near the same place. Archbishop Lamplugh's monument is enclosed within iron palisades, and exhibits on a pedestal a statue of the mitred prelate in his episcopal robes, with the crosier in his hand. Two pilasters support a semicircular pediment, with an urn on the top. The Archbishop died in 1691, in his 76th year. This is one of the earliest instances of monumental effigies the size of life presented in an erect position. A small antique monument, with the bust of a female in a niche, to Mrs. Anne Bennet, who died in 1601. A pyramidal monument of white marble, to the memory of Thomas Lam plugh, Eector of Bolton Percy, and" Canon Eesidentiary of this Cathedral. He was grandson to the Archbishop of the same name, and died in 1747, aged 60. Near the entrance to the crypt is a marble altar tomb to Archbishop Dolben, who died in 1686, in the 63nd year of his age. On the table reclines a handsome robed and mitred figure of the prelate. On the south wall is a beautiful marble slab, on which is represented a sarcophagus, with arms and an inscription to the memory of the Lady Mary Hore, who died at York on her way to Scarborough in 1798, aged 39 years. The monument to the Rev. George William Anderson, who died in 1785, in his 35th year, consists of a compartment, with an oval inscription tablet, and a serpent in a circle being the emblem of eternity. A variegated marble tablet, on which is represented a sarcophagus in white marble, stands against the waU, in memory of Mr. Francis Croft, who died in 1837, aged 31. Here is an elegant classical monument of white marble, by Westmacott, to the memory of Dr. William Burgh, author of a treatise " On the Holy Tri nity," The doctor was a native of Ireland, and died in York in 1808, aged 87, The monument exhibits a full-length emblematical figure of Eeligion, with a dove on her head, and bearing a cross in her hand. On the base or pedestal is a long poetical inscription, written by J, B, S. Morritt, Esq,, of Eokeby Park, the eariy friend of Sir Walter Scott, Towards the east end of this aisle is an elegant veined marble monument of the Corinthian order, to William Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, son of the unfortunate Earl who was beheaded. In a double niche, between beautiful 464 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. fluted columns, are whole length figures of the Earl and his Countess, with an urn between them, and the coronet laid at their feet. On each column stands a handsome vase or urn ; upon the pedestal, beside eaoh figure, a weeping cherub ; and over the niche, within a circular pediment, are the Wentworth Arms. Beneath is a long inscription, descriptive of his iUus trious family connexions. The Earl died in 1695. Next to Lord Strafford's is a large white marble tablet to the Rt. Hon. Lora Burton Dawnay, Viscountess Downe, who died in 1819, aged 73. In this neighbourhood is a neat marble tablet to the memory of the late Rev. John Eyre, Archdeacon of Nottingham, and Canon Residentiary of York Cathedral, who died in 1830. Also a neat monument with various devices, to Edward Tipping, Esq., of Bellurgan Park, County of Louth, Ireland, who died in 1789, aged 35. A new Gothic monument in stone to George Hoare, Esq., and Francis his wife. The former died in 1818, and the latter in 1811, The monument consists of a tablet under a beautiful canopy, adorned with finials, crockets, &c. Over a small door in the south east corner of this aisle, is the mural mo nument of Archbishop Piers, who died in 1594, aged 71, It is a small square compartment, with two Corinthian columns supporting an entablature deco rated with shields of arms, &c. The monuments in the Lady Chapel are — under the great east window, a superb one in memory of the Hon. Thomas Watson Wentworth, third son of Edward Lord Eockingham, who died in 1793, aged 58; also to Thomas Watson Wentworth, Marquis of Eockingham, who died in 1750, and was interred in his uncle's, t]ie Earl of Stafford's, vault ; and likewise to Charles Watson Wentworth, the last Marquis of Rockingham, who died in 1789, aged 53, aud was buried in the same vault, with great honours, as already des cribed at page 373, This beautiful piece of sculpture, wliich was executed by J, B, Guelfi Eomanus, consists of an elegant basement of veined marble, on which is. a circular pedestal, whereon stands a fuU length figure of the first named deceased, in a Eoman habit, leaning with his left arm upon an um, A fine female figure is represented sitting on the other side, re- cUning her head upon her right hand, with her elbow upon another pe destal; the back ground of the monument forming a pyramid is surmounted by a coat of arms. This is the best piece of sculpture in the Church, Archbishop Henry Bowett's monument is of exquisite taste and elegance. It is nearly thirty feet high, and is decorated with Ught and lofty pinnacles, statues, &c. The altar tomb is placed beneath an elUptical arch, covered with tracery, and surmounted by pinnacles. The arch is pointed, and the HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. 465 roof beautifuUy groined. The whole is a very fine specimen of the archi tecture of the fifteenth century. Archbishop Bowett died in 1433. Under the east window is a sumptuous marble monument to Archbishop Sharpe, who died at Bath in 1718, aged 69. It is of the Corinthian Order, with pilasters; upon the pedestal is a mitred figure of the prelate in a re - cUniug posture, being about half raised on the right arm, which rests on a cushion, with a book in the left hand. The whole is decorated with figures of winged cherubs, urns, drapery, &c. Archbishop Matthew's monument formerly stood against the waU beneath • the great east window, but it was destroyed by the fire of 1839. His effigy, though broken into three parts, is stUl preserved here. A descendant of that prelate erected another handsome monument to his memory, on the south side of the Lady Chapel, in 1844. It consists of a Gothic altar tomb of Yorkshire stone, with a beautiful black marble slab. The sides of the tomb are eaoh in five compartments, in which are shields of arms. This prelate died in 1638, aged 83. On the north side of this Chapel is another recently erected altar tomb, to the memory of Archbishop Markham, who died in 1807. It is simUar in design to the last mentioned monument, and round its base is a beautiful pavement of encaustic tUes. In a niche in a waU under the east window is a monument to Frances Matthew, relict of Archbishop Matthew, who died in 1639, aged 78. It ex hibits a female figure kneeling at a desk between two columns, with two other figures standing near the columns in a devout posture. The whole is decorated with angels, &c. Mrs. Matthew was daughter of Barlow, Bishop of Chichester ; her first husband was son of Parker, Archbishop of Canter bury ; her second husband was Archbishop of York ; and her four sisters each married a Bishop. Archbishop Frewen's monument is twenty feet high and ten broad, and consists of two Corinthian columns, with an arched pediment, between which is a full length effigy of the prelate in gown and cap, the whole being deco rated with books, coats of arms, &c., and surmounted by figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity. He died in 1664, in his 76th year. Archbishop Scrope's monument is about three feet high and eight feet long. The sides are ornamented with sculptured shields in quatrefoil compartments. This Archbishop was beheaded for high treason in 1405. (See pp. 147, 404). The tomb is not inscribed. Archbishop de Botherham's monument is a solid Gothic altar tomb, restored at the expense of Lincoln College, Oxford, in 1833, the deceased prelate 3 0 ¦^66 HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. having been the second founder of that CoUege. The original monument, which was erected by the Archbishop himself, and under which he was buried, was partially destroyed at the conflagration in 1S39. He died in 1500. Archbishop SewaU's (removed from the south transept) is a table monu ment, with a cross flory sculptured on the top. Over it was a marble slab, supported by twelve pillars, but this was destroyed, by the fire in 1839. The monument of the Bt. Hon. Frances JOecU, Countess of Cumberland, is a table tomb, supported by four vases. This lady was the daughter of the Earl of Salisbury, and wife of Henry, Lord Clifford, Bromfleet, Vetrepon, and Vessey, Earl of Cumberiand, and Lord Lieutenant of the County of York. She died in 1648, in her fiftieth year. Against the waU at the north side is a beautiful tablet to the memory of Mrs. Mary ThornhiU, who died at Fixby, in this County, in 1797, aged 71 years ; and likewise to the memory of her two daughters. On the top is an urn in white marble ; and on the right side of an inscription is a branch of laurel, interwoven with cypress ; whUst on the left are cypress and palms. There is a fine marble monument to Archbishop Steme, who died in 1683, aged 87, beneath the east window of the north aisle of the choir. ^Upon the pedestal is a mitred effigy reclining ; over the figure is an architrave, frieze and cornice adorned with drapery and festoons, and surmounted by a semi circular pediment and coat of arms. Nearly adjoining is a neat tablet to B. Steme, Esq., of Elvington, who died in 1791, aged 51. A square compartment, with small Corinthian columns, in the north aisle, contains an inscription to the memory of Lionel Ingrarh, infant son of Arthur Ingrant, Knt. Here are neat oval compartments inscribed to the memory of Mrs. Penelope Gibson and Mrs. Johannah Gibson, both of Welbourne, in this County. The former died in 1715, and the latter in 1773. There is likewise in this lo cality a small marble tablet to Charles Layton, Esq., who died in 1675. Samuel Breary, D.D., Prebendary of StrensaU, and Eector of Middleton and South Dalton, has a neat monument of grey marble, surmounted by a pediment, erected here to his memory. He died in 1735, aged 65. Mrs. Mary Pulleyn's is a pyramidal monument, surmounted with an ele gant urn, on the pedestal of which are placed the arms, decorated on each side with cypress. She died in 1786, aged 83. A neat modern monument against the waU is inscribed to the Rev. Samuel Terrick, Rector of Wheldrake. He died in 1719, in the 61st year of his age. In this aisle is the splendid monument, erected by a general subscription in the County of York, as a tribute of pubUc love and esteem for the memory HISTOEY OF TPIE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 467 of the respected statesman. Sir George Saville, Bart. It is a beautiful white marble statue, placed on an elegant enriched marble pedestal, six feet high, with scrolls at the angles, and on the frieze of which are introduced the em blems of Wisdom, Fortitude, and Eternity. Sir George is represented leaning upon a pillar, holding in his right hand a scroll, on which is writted " The Petition of the Freeholders of the County of York.'' The whole height of the monument is sixteen feet, and on the front of tho pedestal is an inscrip tion commemorative of his public and private virtues. Sir George repre sented this County in five successive Parliaments, and departed this life on the 9th of January, 1784, in the fifty-eighth year of his age. There is a white marble monument against the waU, to the memory of the Eev. John Richardson, Canon Residentiary of this Church, who died in 1786. The neat statuary marble monument to John Dealtry, M.D., who died in 1778, aged 66, consists of a figure of Health in aUo relievo, with her usual insignia, bending over an urn, and dropping a chaplet. Sir Thomas Davenport's is a highly finished pyramidal monument. Sir Thomas was one of his Majesty's Sergeants-at-Law ; and having opened the Commission of Assize in York, on Saturday, March 11th, 1786, and attended the Minster on the foUowing day, he was seized with a fever, and died on the 95th of the same month, aged 59. The Hon. Mrs. Langley's monument, which is of pointed architecture, is exceedingly beautiful. The upper part is a canopy, composed of several arches, with numerous pinnacles, &c. This lady, who was the daughter of Henry, Lord Middleton, and relict of E. Langley, Esq., of Wykeham Abbey, died in 1894, aged 65. The neat marble monument to Admiral Medley has a fine bust, with arms, curious devices of naval instruments, ships, &c. The Admiral was born at Grimston Garth, became Vice-Admiral of the Blue, and Commander-in-Chief in the Mediterranean ; and he died at Savona in 1747. There is a neat plain monument against the waU, to the memory of WUUam Pearson, LL.D., Chancellor of the Diocese of York, who died in 1715, aged 63 ; and beneath is a smaU monument to Mrs. Raynes, who died in 1689. The monument to Charles Howard, Earl of Carlisle, Privy CounciUor to Charles IE., is a marble structure composed of two pUasters, and a circular pediment, adorned with a bust of the Earl, several urns, cherubs, coats of arms, &c. On one column is an inscription to the memory of the deceased nobleman, who died in 1684, aged 56; and on another column of the same monument is an inscription to the memory of Sir John Fenwicke, Bart., of Fenwicke Castle, Northumberland, who died in 1696, aged 63, and was 468 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. buried in London. In the centre of the monument is an inscription to Lady Mary Fenwicke, daughter of the above-named Earl, and relict of the said Sir John Fenwicke, who died in 1780, aged fifty. Sir William Ingram's is an antique monument, decorated with figures of himself and his wife, coats of arms, &c. He was a Doctor of Laws, a Master in Chancery, and sole Deputy Commissary of the Prerogative Court of York, and was knighted by King James. He died in 1635. There is a smaU monument, decorated with coats of arms, containing an inscription to Mrs. Annabella Wickham, wife of Henry Wickham, D.D., Archdeacon of York. She died in 1635. Dr. Swinburne's monument, which is partly modern, is decorated with coats of arms, small figures, and angels, and a large figure kneeling under an arch. There is a short inscription, but no date. Against the wall is a variegated marble monument, with a white oval centre, inscribed to Captain Pelsant Reeves, of Aborfield, Berks., who feU in battle at Toulon, on the 30th of November, 1793, in the 39th year of his age. Adjoining the preceding is a handsome white marble monument to the memory Of the Beo. Bd. Thompson, Prebendary of York, and Eector of Kirk- Deighton, who died in 1795 ; also to the memory of Anne his wife, who died in 1791. It is supported by two flat pUlars, one of which is crowned with an urn, and the other With a representation of books piled up. A large urn is placed on the top, and the whole is ornamented with emblematic devices. The handsome monument bf Corinthian architecture, erected to Sir Henry Bellasis, is decorated with coats of arms, and three small figures in the atti tude of prayer. In the upper part, beneath arches, are figures of the knight and his lady ; the latter was a daughter of the famous Sir Thomas Fairfax. A smaU plain tablet against the 'waU is inscribed to John Farr Abbot, Esq., of London, who died at York in 1794, aged 38 years. Beneath this is a smaU tablet to Elizabeth ChaUenor, who died in 1798, aged fifty-two. Over the grave of Richard Wharton, Esq., of Cariton, in this County, is a very neat whit6 marble monument on a black marble ground. On the top is an elegant Sarcophagus with the family arms in front. Mr. Wharton died in 1794, aged 64 years. The monument oi Archbishop SOvaJge, on the opposite side of the aisle, was erected about a.d. 1500, and restored in 1813. It may be regarded as one of the latest examples of the tetegant EngUsh style, which, towards the end of the sixteenth century, was corrupted and debased by the intermixture of Grecian and Eoman architecture. On an aliar tomb lies the effigy of the prelate, arrayed in fuU pontificals; and above is a pointed arch in panels. HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 469 In this aisle are two very large stone coffins, found some years ago without Bootham Bar; and near them are placed two stone effigies, removed from another part of the Church — one of the effigies, which is attired in chain armour, with a shield, &c., is supposed to represent a member of the family of Mauley ; and the other, we are told by Allen, was formerly supposed to be Roman, but has lately been considered as a Saxon layman of high rank. Here are also two very large ancient triangular chests, adorned with curious iron scroll work. These formerly held the copes and other splendid vest ments of the Cathedral dignitaries. In this aisle, near the entrance from the transept, are two old monuments, the brass inscriptions of which are gone. One is supposed to be that of Bryan Higden, Dean of York in 1589, and the other is unknown. Against the waU on the opposite side, near the western end of this aisle, is the handsome monument of Prince WUliam de Hatfield,* second son of King Edward IIL, who died in 1844, at the early age of eight years. Under a beautiful canopy the royal youth is represented in alabaster, habited in a doublet with long sleeves, a mantle, plain hose, and shoes, richly ornamented. The head of the Prince was formerly supported by two angels, now destroyed, and his feet rest against a lion couchant. A large quantity of wax tapers appear to have been burnt round the tomb soon after the Prince's burial, as in the Wardrobe Book of Edward III. we find an entry of a sum of money paid for " 193 lbs. Of wax burnt around the Prince's corpse, at Hatfield, Pomfret, and York, where he was buried." Of many of those monuments, especially the most sumptuous of them, Mr. Britton says, " Notwithstanding the labour and expense profusely lavished in erecting them, they display examples of every fault which should be avoided in monumental sculpture and architecture." Chaptee House. Exterior. — This magnificent octagonal structure — the most elegant one of the kind in England, or perhaps in the world — is situated on the north side of the Cathedral, and is approached by a vestibule, which branches off from the north transept of the latter edifice. There is some difficulty in ascertaining the date of its erection, as the records of the Church afford no account thereof. Stubbs, who is very particular in the memoirs of • This Prince was born at Hatfield, near Thome, whence he took his surname, Queen PhUippa, his mother, on the occasion of his birth, gave five marks per annum to the neighbouring Abbey of Eoche, and five nobles to the monks there. When the Prince died these sums were transferred to the Church of York, where he was buried, and to the present time they are paid by the Dean aud Chapter out of the impropriation of the Eectory of Hatfield, as appears by the rolls. ^70 HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. the rest of the buUdings, entirely omits this. Some ascribe it to the time of Archbishop de Grey, the style of architecture according with the south transept, commenced by that prelate in 1390 ; whUe others attribute it to a later period, about 1800, which would make it correspond with the time of the erection of the nave. Good authorities fix the date of its erection during the reign of Edward I. Mr, Cooke says "If we may be allowed to guess at the founder, that eminent prelate (Walter de Grey) stands the fairest of any in the succession for it. The pUlars which surround the dome, " he continues, " are of the same kind of marble as those which support his tomb. But what seems to put the matter out of dispute is the picture of an Archbishop, betwixt those of a King and Queen, over the entrance, which, by having a serpent under his feet, into the mouth of which his crozier enters, exactly corresponds with the like representation of Walter de Grey ou his monument."* Mr. Brown, in his valuable work on the history of York Cathedral, says that "from a comparison of separate parts and ornaments of the Chapter House, with similar parts and ornaments in other portions of the Church, he is induced to imagine that the Chapter House and its vestibule were de signed about the year 1380; and as King Edward I. and his Queen Eleanor were in York, in the year 1384, assisting at the ceremony of the relics of St. WiUiam, it is highly probable that the foundation stone was then laid. But it is also probable that the subsequent progress of the erection of the nave, which was begun in the year 1391, the labour required by the rich and deUcate work of the carved portions of the Chapter House, and the disquie tude of the time, retarded the progress of the building, so that it may not have been completed till about the year 1340." The Vestibuh of the ediflce is very interesting in its architecture and sculpture. Its plan is in the form of a right angle, the first portion being forty-four feet long, and the second forty-six and a half feet. The Chapter House itself is a regular octagon, with a projecting buttress attached to every angle. The architecture of the whole structure is Pointed, and is a very noble specimen of that style. Interior. — The entrance to the vestibule is situated, as just intimated, in the eastern aisle of the north transept, and is of more modern workmanship than the transept. It is not unUke the great western entrance to the Cathe- • Cooke's Topographical description of Yorkshire. Those supposed pictures of Arch bishop de Grey and Henry IH. and his Queen, formerly adorned the blank side of tbe octagon, immediately over the enti-ance to the Chapter House, but this, with all the re mains of tiie original painting and gUding in the edifice, has been removed, and the stone restored to its natural colour. HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. 471 dral, and consists of two arches filled in with richly paneUed doorways, on the points of which is a circle fiUed with tracery, and the whole is compre hended in an acute pedimental canopy. The two doors are of beautiful Gothic open wood work, and made of EngUsh oak. The interior of the vestibule is very beautiful, the sides being apparently all windows, and the waUs below are richly adorned. The ceiUng is of stone, and is richly groined. At the other end of this splendid vestibule is the entrance to the Chapter House, which greatly resembles the first doorway, but is of a richer character. It consists of two pointed arches, each enclosing in the head three sweeps, whioh portion is glazed, the lower part being occupied by oak doorways almost covered with rich scroU work in iron. The upper part of the octan gular pier, which divides these arches, is pierced with a canopied niche, on the pedestal of which is a statue of the Blessed Virgin, with her Divine Son in her arms, trampling on the serpent. The image, with the drapery, is somewhat elegant, and has been aU richly gilt, but, as Mr. Cooke expresses it, " it bears a mark of those times which made even stone statues feel their malice" — it is defaced. Upon the points of these arches is a circle enriched with a quatrefoil, and the whole is comprehended in one large pointed arch richly moulded, and springing from smaU columns attached to the jambs. The interior of this magnificent structure produces a very solemn and im pressive effect. It is sixty-three feet in diameter, and sixty-seven feet ten inches high, and this vast space is not interrupted by a single pillar, the roof being wholly supported by a single pin, geometricaUy placed in the centre. Rickman said of this Chapter House, " it is by far the finest poly gonal room without a central pillar in the Kingdom, and the delicacy and variety of its ornaments are nearly unequalled." The richly groined ceiling of oak was formerly painted and gilded with representations of Saints and sacred subjects, aU of which were tastelessly obliterated about the year 1760. The blank space over the entrance was also decorated with paintings of Saints, Kings, Bishops, &c. The thirteen niches over the door were formerly filled with statues of Our Saviour, the Blessed Virgin (in the centre), and the Twelve Apostles. Tradition says that these images were of solid silver, double gilt, the Apostles being about a foot high, and the central figure twice the height. "It is generally believed," writes AUen, "that Henry VIII. stole them from the Cathedral, or had them presented to him by Archbishop Holdgate, tp prevent him from committing the theft." The whole circum ference below the windows, except at the entrance, is occupied hj forty-four canopied stone stalls for the Canons who composed the Chapter of the Cathe dral. The canopies of these stalls are profusely decorated with grotesque 473 HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. sculptures, ending in finials. The columns of the staUs are of Petworth marble. Above the canopies, and on the siUs of the windows, runs a gaUery, which is continued round the entire room, and through the soUds of the piers ; the carving of this passage is exquisite. The windows of the vestibule and Chapter House are equally splendid, both in design and colouring, with those of the Cathedral. AU are of ancient date, except the one opposite the en trance to the octagon, which is a restoration by Barnett, of York. The subj ects pf the latter window are taken from the Ufe of Christ ; the glass in the upper compartments of aU the other windows exhibit the arms of founders and benefactors, and the subjects of the lower divisions are chiefly Saints, with beautiful canopies above them, very richly and elaborately coloured. Pre vious to 1845 the whole interior had a very dilapidated appearance, when, by means of the bequest of the late Dr. Beckwith of £3,000., for the purpose of its repair it underwent a thorough restoration. The roof was then redeco rated after the old style, by WiUement, of London ; the marble piUars of the StaUs were poUshed, and the stone work cleaned; the old pavement was taken up ¦end replaced by a costly and elaborately tesselated one by Minton, of Stoke-upon-Trent : and the above-named window restored. The whole Chapter House now forms a highly finished and chastely decorated specimen of architectural ornament. We must not here omit an encomium bestowed upon this edifice by a great traveUer, in an old monkish Latin couplet, which is inscribed in Saxon characters, near the entrance door : — "Wt liDsa <|l0S glaxvcox, §k tet gorrats xsta Jrnnormn."* The learned Dr. Whitaker was of opinion that this Chapter House, taken as a whole, is the most perfect specimen now remaining of the Early Florid Gothic style of architecture, introduced in the reign of Henry IH. In refer ence to York Cathedral, and particularly to the Chapter House, there is a remarkable passage in the Ufe of .^neus SUvius, afterwards Pope Pius II. This distinguished individual, who passed through England on his way to Scotiand, as legate, about the year 1448, " went down to York, a great and populous City, where there is a Church, celebrated over aU the world for its workmanship and magnitude; but especiaUy for a very fine Ughtsome Chapel, whose shining waUs of glass are held together between columns very slender in the midst." * This is the chief of Houses, as the Eose is the chief of Flowers. HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 473 Gent has a story that Cromwell granted permission to a person to piill down the Chapter House, and build a stable with the materials ; but the statement is probable without foundation, though that arch-dismantler is said to have violated the sanctity of other structures not less sacred,* ^igttitaras, #t., 0f tlj« iJatl^jJtixal ai Si. '§zitx, at f odt, in 1857. (The flgures denote the value of the incomes ; and the date, when each dignitary was inducted.) AaoHBiSHOP.-TEight Hon, and Most Eev, Thomas Musgrave, D.D ^10,000 1847. Dean.— Very Eev. Sir WiUiam Cockburn, D.D,, Bart 1833, Canons Eesidentiaiiy, WiUiam Vernon Harcourt, M,A North Neicbald Charles Hawkins, B.C.L Barnby Charles V, B. Johnstone, M.A Wetwang John BailUe, M.A Wistow 1823, 1830. 1844. 1854. Chanoellob of the Chuech. — L. Vernon Harcourt, M.A. . . Laughton . .1837. Pkecentoe. — Hon. and Eev. Edward Eice, D.D., Dean of Gloucester. .Driffield.. 1802. Sub-Dean. — Hon. and Eev. Stephen W. Lawley, M.A 1852. Sucoeniob. — Hon. and Eev, H. E. J. Howard, D.D., Dean of Lichfield, .Holme. .ISZH. Abohdeaoons. York. — ^Venerable Stephen Creyke, M.A 1845. East-Riding. — ^Venerable Charles Maitland Long, M.A 1854. Cleveland. — Venerable Edward Churton, M.A 1846. Peebendaeies, Non-Eesident, and theie Peebends. Wm, Preston, M.A. Bilton 1812 John BuU, D.D., Fenton ' 1826 T. Hutton Croft, M.A., StiUington . .1831 H. C. Musgrave, D.D., Givendale . .1833 Hon. A. Duncombe, M.A,, Bole 1841 John Sharpe, D.D., Grindall 1841 Edwd, Churton, M.A., Knaresborough 1841 S. Creyke, M.A., South Newbald 1841 Eobert B. Cooke, M.A., Ulleskelf 1842 Charles Hotham, M.A., Langtoft 1842 A. B. Wrightson, M.A., Botevant 1843 WUUam Gooch, M.A., Strensall 1843 Samuel Coates, M.A., Ampleforth. . . .1843 George Dixon, M.A., Bugthorpe 1856 George Trevor, M,A., Apethorpe 1847 George Wray, M.A., Dunnington .... 1847 E. J. Eandolph, M.A., Warthill 1847 H. W. Yeoman, M.A,, Thockerington 1851 John Blackburn, M,A,, Riccall 1851 J. D. Jeff'erson, M.A., Osboldwick . ,1852 WiUiam Hey, M.A., Weighton 1854 C. M. Long, M.A., Friday thorpe 1855 Thomas Sale, M,A., Husthwaite 1855 * In the mad fanaticism which raged throughout England in the time of the Com monwealth, Bloxom says, " Our sacred edifices were polluted and profaned in the most irreverent and disgraceful manner ; and with the exception of the destruction which took place on the dissolution of the monastic estabUshments in the previous century, more devastation was occasioned at this time by the party hostile to the estabUshed Church, than had ever before been committed since the ravages of the Danish invaders." 3 p Joseph Eomily, M,A, Hon, Thomas Cavendish, M,A. ^'^^ HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK, MiNOB Cai,ons. (A Corporation under the titie of '¦ The Sub-Chanter and Vicars Choral of York Cathedral,") Sub-Chantee.— Edward John Eaines, B.D ] 838 WUUam H. Oldfield, M.A. 1346 | B. E. Metcalfe, M.A I853 Thomas Bayley, M.A 1851 | Arthur Howard Ashworth '.'. . '.im Aeohbishop's Chaplains. Ven, Archdeacon Musgrave, D.D, Thomas Eobinson, D.D, John Croft, M,A, ExAMiNZNU CHAPI.AIN,— W. P. Musgrave, M.A. EEGISTP.AE.— Egerton Vernon Harcourt, Esq. Depuiv Eeoisieaes.— Messrs. Buckle and Hudson, Chaptek Cleek and Eegisteab of the Deaneby of Yoek,— Charles A, Thiselton, Esq. Seceetabies to the AECHBisHOP.-^ohn Burder, Esq., London ; and Charles A. Thiselton, Esq., York. Oeganist. — ^Dr. Camidge. Mastee of St. Petee's GbjUoiae Sohool.— WilUam Hey, M.A. Mastee of Aeohbishop Holgate's Geammab School.— Eobert Daniels, M.A. The religious services performed in the Cathedral are— On Sundays* aud hoUdays, in the forenoon at half past ten o'clock, when a sermon is preached ; and in the afternoon at four, when an anthem is sung. On the week-days at ten o'clock in the forenoon, when an anthem is sung, unless there be a litany ; and in the afternoon at four o'clock, when an anthem is performed. On Wednesdays and Fridays in Lent and Advent, and during the whole of Holy Week, commonly caUed Passion Week, the choral service and singing are intermitted both moming and evening. During the winter months the choir is lighted with gas for the evening service. And Bishop Nicholson, speaking of tbe Cathedral of Carlisle, writes, " our sufferings iu the days of rapine and rebellion equaUed, or exceeded those of any other Cathedral in England, * * * * Om- Chapter House and Treasury had been turned into a magazine for the garrison, and our very Charter sold to make tailors' measures," * By the different nations every day in the week is set apart for pnbUc worship, viz. — Sunday by the Christians, Monday by the Grecians, Tuesday by the Persians, Wed nesday by the Assyrians, Thursday by the Egyptians, Friday by the Turks, and Satur day by the Jews. The following is the comparative capacity for acconimodation of the most celebrated Churches in Europe :— St. Peter's, Eome, 54,000 persons ; MUan Cathedral, 37,000 ; St. Paul's, Eome, 33,000 ; St. Paul's, London, 25,000; St. Petronia, Bologna, 24,000; St. Sophia's, Constantinople, 33,000 ;• Elorence Cathedral, 34,300 ; Antwerp Cathedral, 34,000; St. John Lateran, Eome, 22,900; Notre Dame, Paris, 21,000; Pisa Cathedral, 13,000; St, Stephen's, Vienna, 12,400; Cathedral of Vienna, 11,100; St. Peter's, Bo logna, 11,400; St, Dominic's, Bologna, 11,000; St, Mai'k's, Venice, 7,000, HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK, 475 C4.THEDEAL Peecincts, commonly called the Minstee Yaed oe Close, — This district, the circumference of which is about three quarters of a mile, was in former times detached from the City by walls, and four pair of large gates. One gate was placed at Petergate, facing Little Blake Street ; another opened into Petergate, opposite Stonegate ; a third stood at the end of College Street, opposite the Bedern; and a fourth in Uggleforth. And when in its meridian glory, this small space contained three parish Churches, and formed a Uttle ecclesiastical world of its own. The three Churches were those of St. Michael le Belfrey, St. Martin ad Valvas, and St. John Baptist-del-Pyke ; but of these the first mentioned now only remains. The See of York had formerly appended to it several Palaces in different parts of the country, but that at Bishopthorpe is now the only one that re mains. The finest of the olS Palaces stood on the north side of the Cathedral. It was erected by Thomas, the first Norman Archbishop,* but its great hall was dismantled by Thomas Young, the first Protestant Archbishop, whose cupidity was tempted to make this spoUation by the lead which covered its roof. Since that period other parts of this Anglo-Saxon edifice have been leased out from the See, and for a long time part of its ancient site was a receptacle for a mass of rubbish and filth. The site of the mansion is now converted into the Deanery gardens. During the alterations consequent on the change to its present state, part of the cloisters of the old Palace were discovered, forming, when found, the wall of a stable ; and from the style of architecture, it is evident that it. is the work of the early part of the twelfth century. It consists. of seven semicircular arches, with plain mould ings springing from three columns, with square capitals. A similar column in the centre of each division divides them into two trefoil-headed niches. This interesting and picturesque fragment is now placed near the centre of the north side of the Minster Close, and from it an excellent view of the Cathedral and Chapter House may be obtained. The Minster Yard was formerly choked up with mean buildings, but in 1835 an Act was passed enabUng the Dean and Chapter to take steps towards their removal, and to enlarge and improve the ground surrounding the Cathe- dral.-|- The old houses soon began to give away, and in a few years fine * Some authorities state that this Palace was erected by Archbishop Eoger, who was consecrated iu 1154. t There were at that time no less than three pubUc houses in the Cathedral Close, called the Minster Coffee House; the Hole in the Wall; and the Sycamore Tree. The first mentioned stood opposite the west front of the Cathedral; the second a little fur ther northward ; and the latter at the east end of the Church near the old Eesidence, 476 HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. walks and shrubberies, and beautiful buUdings appeared in their stead The road on the south side of the Minster to the east end was formed in 1839 It formerly ran close to the waUs of that Church, and houses were buUt as near upon it as the traffic of the street would permit. The iron paUsades which runs round the west end, and along the south side, were also erected when the new road was made. At the same time the Hall of Pleas, for the Liberty of St. Peter, which stood near the west end, was taken away, and a number of houses, extending from the Church of St. Michael le Belfrey to the top of Little Blake Street, were puUed down. These great changes in the general appearance of the Minster Close are principaUy due to the taste of the present Dean, Dr. Sir WiUiam Cockburn, Bart., brother to the Eari of Hardwicke. Minster Ubrary.— The Chapel of the above-mentioned Archiepiscopal Palace is now used as the Ubrary of the CathedrM, It stands on the north side of the Minster Close, and is an interesting specimen of the Eariiest Pointed style of architecture. For many years this Chapel was in a very di lapidated state, but in 1808 it was restored, under the judicious direction of the Dean and Chapter, and the Ubrary, which tUl then had been kept in a smaU buUding attached to the Minster, was removed to it. It stands on a line with the buildings of the new Deanery, and is a great ornament to the Minster precincts. Its west front is divided into two stories by a string course ; the lower has a doorway, consisting of a pointed arch springing from two dwarf columns, with circular capitals simply ornamented with a flower moulding. In the second story is a lancet-headed window of five lights, each divided by a capital simUar to those in the lower story ; the whole are bounded by a semicircular arch, which rises on each side of the window. The angles of the buUding are guarded by buttresses, with angular caps, and the roof Takes to a point with the smaU flower moulding, common to works of the period. The south side of the buUding is made into four divisions by but tresses ; and in the upper story are pointed arched windows. This side of the edifice is finished by a string course and plain parapet ; and the north side is buUt against. The ground floor is now used as a lumber room, but the upper apartment, which is approached by a flight of stone steps from an adjoining building, is neatly fitted up as the library. The windows on the south side are fiUed with ground glass, and the one in the west end is filled with beautiful stained glass, representing the armorial bearings of the mem bers of the Church, at the period of its erection ; in the centre of which is a shield bearing the arms of the Duke of Clarence, who visited the Cathedral on the 99th of September, 1806. The date of this building is about the same period as the relic of the episcopal Palace above-mentioned. Adjoining HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. 477 the library on the north side is a small ancient edifice of two stories, the lower containing a doorway, with three narrow windows, and the upper, three windows of two Ughts each, made by a dwarf column in the centre. The whole is finished by a plain parapet. This building evidently formed a cor ridor to the ancient Chapel, as the door of entrance to the upper room (formerly the part used for Divine Service) is in the upper story of it ; and this door, which is very handsome, seems to be of the same age as the building. It has already been observed that the Minster Library was originaUy founded by Archbishop Egbert, in the eighth centtiry, and extensive addi tions were afterwards made to it by his successor Archbishop Albert. So choice was the collection in this library, that WUliam, the librarian of Malms bury, calls it the " noblest repository and cabinet of arts and sciences then in the whole world;'' and the celebrated Alcuin, the Preceptor of the Em peror Charles the Great, at his return into Britain, wrote his royal pupil a letter, in which the highest encomiums are bestowed on this library,* (See page 313), But great was the loss of the learned world, when in 1069, the Ubrary, along with the building which Archbishop Albert had erected for it, was destroyed by fire. In the reign of WiUiam I., Archbishop Thomas founded another library, which was esteemed a valuable one, but which un fortunately shared the same fate with the former one, by the calamitous fire which broke out in the year 1137, Leland laments the loss of the library of York Minster, when he was sent by Henry VIII, with a commission to search every library in the Kingdom. " There is now scarce one book left in the library of St, Peter," says that learned antiquary, " which Flaccus Albinus, otherwise called Alcuinus, has so often and so greatly extoUed for its great number of books, as weU Latin as Greek ; for the barbarity of the Danes and the ravaging of WiUiam Nothus have exhausted this treasure, as well as many others," In the early part of the seventeenth century the Minster Library was founded for the third time, by Mrs. Matthews, relict of the Archbishop of that name, who presented to the Church her husband's private collection of books, amounting to upwards of 3,000 volumes,f The library has since been augmented at different times, and amongst the » Alcuin himself was the flrst Ubrarian of the Minster, the care of the coUection having been committed to him by Archbishop Egbert; and in his time students came from afar to avail themselves of its treasures. Alcuin has sung its praises in a Latin poem recounting its numerous volumes. For a further account of the library of this period, see Sharon Turner's History of the Anglo-Saxons, and Alcuini Opera, tom, i, ¦f Archbishop Matthews disinherited his son. Sir Toby Matthews, and this was pro bably the reason that the mother bestowed her husband's books on the Church, 478 HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK, chief contributors was Dean Finch, who died in 1738, and bequeathed the FcBdera Anglicana in seventeen tomes. The Eev, Marmaduke FothergiU, the non-juring Eector of Skipwith, left a smaU but select collection of books to his native City, on condition that a room was built for its reception ; and in the meantime he directed that the coUection should be placed in the Library of the Dean and Chapter, No room having been built, the books have been incorporated with the Minster Library.* To the above have been added several late purchases, gifts, and bequests, which form together a valuable library (considering its size) of theological and general Uterature, of nearly 8,000 volumes and manuscripts ; and amongst the most rare and valuable works which it contains, are a beautiful copy of the second edition of Eras mus' New Testament, in Greek and Latin, 3 vols., folio, printed on veUum, by Frobenius, at Basle ; a MS, copy of WickUffe's New Testament, on veUum, supposed to have belonged to Queen Elizabeth; three MS, copies of the Vulgate, on vellum, of the date of Henry HI, or Edward I, ; a MS, copy of Bracton de Legibus Anglia, on veUum ; a translation of Cicero de Senectute, printed by Caxton in 1481 ; and several other books, printed by Caxton, Wynkin de Worde, and Pynson, which are some of the best specimens of early English typography extant. We may also class amongst the rare and valuable in this library, Torre's inestimable manuscripts, containing CoUec tions from the original records of all the ecclesiastical affairs relating to this Church and Diocese ; the original register of St, Mary's Abbey, at York ; and a TuUy de Inventione, ad Herrenium, very perfect. The Eev, Edward John Eaines, B,D., is the present librarian. The Ubrary is open to the pubUo on Tuesdays and Thursdays, from twelve to one o'clock, when the librarian is in attendance. Books are not lent out without an order from the Chapter, In the library are portraits of Archbishop Matthews and the Eev, M, FothergiU ; and a curious old print of the funeral procession of the great * The learned Marmaduke FothergUl was bom iu Percy's Inn, in Walmgate, York, the ancient town residence of the Earl of Northumberland, in 1653, and was the eldest son of an opulent citizen, who had acquired a fortune by trade. He was educated at Cambridge, and possessed the Uving of Skipworth, in this County ; but the Eevolution altered his views respecting the Church, and being determined never more to take any oath of allegiance, he retired from it, and Uved on the income of his paternal estate. He was a great Mend and admirer of Uterary characters ; hence he often visited the Uni versity; and though he performed all the exercises required for the degree of D.D., he would not even there comply with the government oaths, and therefore could never as sume the tifle. He had a large coUection of manuscripts on the subject of ecclesiastical antiquity, which he once designed to have published, and would have done so, had not extreme modesty prevented him. He died at Westminster, September 7th, 1731, aged 79. HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 479 Duke of Marlborough, the hero of Blenheim, as it passed from his house at St. James's, to Westminster Abbey, on Thursday, August 9, 1733. In the ante room is a curious specimen of Saxon sculpture, in a fine state of pre servation. It was discovered iu the dungeon of an old building, since re moved, which stood on the north side of the Minster, and which from its appearance had evidently been used for a prison. The stone is supposed to have been originally the base of the archway over the entrance of the dungeon, and the sculpture represents a man in the last agonies of death, surrounded by demons or evil spirits, who are tormenting his body, and seizing the de parting spirit as it issues from it. When we consider the great lustre which the name of Alcuin once shed upon the ancient Church and City of York — the place too of his nativity — it appears not a little remarkable that his name is not connected in any way whatever with an institution, a street, or a spot of ground, in any part of the City or its neighbourhood. Can it be possible, the reader might weU enquire, that the name of him whose fame attracted students to York from all parts of England and the Continent; of him who sung the praises of " Old Ebor," and the Saints of its Diocese, in classic verse, above a thousand years ago ; of him to whose care was committed that priceless collection of rare and matchless works, which rendered York the envy of the learned world ; of him who was the Preceptor of Clarlemagne, and the most learned man of his age ; can it be possible that this venerable name, of which the people of York ought to be so proud, is not commemorated in connection with a literary society or an institution, or even with a street or lane, in the City? Yes, indeed, it is so ! And shall it so continue ? Good taste forbid it. That portion of the Minster Yard, in which the Cathedral lAbrary, the Deanery, and the Residence are situated, being now separated from the other parts of the precincts of the Minster, by iron paUsades, may be said to be without any specific name ; and a gentleman of York, who entertains deep feelings upon the above sub ject, asks us if Alcuin Place would not be an appropriate appellation for it ? We reply that it would, and we hope to see the exceUent and tasteful suggestion realized. On the north side of the Cathedral, and near the before-mentioned Archie piscopal Palace, stood formerly the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, or of St. Sepulchre, as it is usually called, which has a door stUl remaining, opening into the north aisle of the nave. The foundation of this Chapel being very ancient and extraordinary, we shall present the reader with full particulars of it, according to Dugdale: — "Eoger, Archbishop of York, having built against the great Church a Chapel, he dedicated it to the name of the Blessed 480 HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. and Immaculate Virgin Mary and Holy Angels, for the celebration of divine services, to the eternal honour of God, glory of his successors, and a re mission of his own sins. He ordained the same to be a perpetual habitation for thirteen clerks of different orders, viz : — four priests, four deacons, four subdeacons, and one sacrist ; all these to be subservient to the wiU of the Archbishop, especiaUy the sacrist, who shall be constituted procurator of the rents and revenues belonging to it, paying each of the priest ten marks per ann., for his own salary, besides the revenue of the rents that remain over, and besides what wiU complete the sum of aU the portions of the priests, deacons, and sub-deacons. Also he wiUed that the said sacrist of his own cost expend ten shiUings on Maunday, as well in veiles, wine, ale, vessels, and water for washing the feet of the Canons, and other poor clerks, to the use of these poor clerks ; and also to contribute sixteen shillings to the diet of the said poor clerks, that in all things the fraternity and unity of the Church may be preserved. " And for their necessary sustenation, he of his own bounty gave them the Churches of Everton, Sutton with Scorby Chapel, Heyton, Berdesey, Otteley, one medety ; and procured of the liberality of other faithful persons the Church of Calverly, ex dono WUlielmi de Sooty ; the Church of Hoton, ex dono Wil- lielmi Paganel ; the Church of Harwood, ex dono Avacie de EuminiUy ; the Church of Thorpe, ex dono Ade de Bruys et Ivette de Arches wooris sum. To this Chapel also did belong the Churches of CoUingham, Clareburg, and Eet ford. Eoger provided also that the Churches which were not of donation should be free from synodals, and aU other things due to the Archbishop, his successors, and their officials ; and ordered that they should as quietly and freely hold and enjoy these Churches, which are of his donation, as others have before them. Lastly, he ordained, for the more dUigent serving of the Chapel, that none of the said clerks should dwell out of the City, which if they presumed to do, they should be displaced by the Archbishop, and another of the same order be by him appointed." The revenues of these Churches having very much increased, Archbishop Sewal appointed Vicars to be estabUshed in them, and made several rules for the better government of the ministers, whom from thenceforth he caused to be called Canons. In the 37th of Henry VIH. it was certified in the Court of Augmentations, that the revenues of the Chapel of St. Sepulchre were of the yearly value of £193. 16s. 6d. The Chapel was then suppressed, and its revenues seized by the King. In the 4th of Elizabeth (1558) the tithes belonging to this Chapel, and the Chapel itself, were sold to a person of the name of Webster. In HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OF YOEK. 481 course of time the Chapel was converted into a public house, which from an opening at the end of a dungeon with which the Chapel was provided, was facetiously named " The Hole in the WaU." Having become ruinous, the building was taken down in 1816, and on removing the materials the work men came to a subterraneous prison or dungeon, some feet below the surface of the earth. The approach was by a flight of stone steps, at the bottom of which were two massy oak entrance doors, one against the other, each five feet seven inches high, by two feet seven inches broad, and five inches thick. The vault was thirty-two feet five inches in length, nine feet four inches broad, and about nine and a half feet in height ; the waUs being four feet ten inches thick. On one side were three sloping windows guarded with iron, and attached to the walls were the remains of several staples. This dungeon was probably used for immuring ecclesiastical delinquents. In the following year was found in it the rude piece of Saxon sculpture already mentioned as being deposited in the ante-room of the Minster Library. The Hall of Pleas, and prison for the Liberty of St. Peter, which stood nearly opposite the west end of the Minster, was pulled down as has already been observed, during the alterations about seventeen years ago. As we have also before remarked, there was a large arched gateway immediately facing Little Blake Street, which led into the Minster Yard ; and on the ground between the east side of that gateway, and the Church of St. Michael le Belfrey, extended a row of low old-fashioned houses. On the west side of the same gateway, abutting on the street, stood the Hall of Pleas, and what was called the Peter Prison. The lower part of the building was used as the prison and residence of the gaoler ; and in the upper story, which was reached by a flight of stone steps from the Minster Yard, was a Court room where causes in common law, arising within the jurisdiction of the Liberty of St. Peter, were tried. The jurisdiction of this Liberty was separate and exclusive, and had its own magistrates, steward, clerk of the peace, bailiff, coroner, and constables. Four general Quarter Sessions used to be held in the Hall of Pleas, every year, " to enquire into all manner of felonies, poisonings, in- chantments, sorceries, arts magic, trespasses, &c. ; " and a Court was held in the haU every three weeks, where pleas in actions of debt, trespass, re plevin, &c., to any amount whatever, arising within the Liberty, were held. By virtue of an Act, 5 and 6 WiUiam IV., cap. 76, the Liberty of St. Peter of York has been abolished for aU civil purposes, although its ecclesiastical jurisdiction continues the same. The Liberty comprehends all those parts of the City and County of York which belong to the Cathedral or Church of St. Peter, viz : — in the City of York — the Minster Yard and Bedern. In the 8 Q 483 HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDRAL OF YOEK. North Riding — Carleton and Husthwaite, in Birdforth Wapentake ; CUfton Haxby, Gate Hemsley, Helperby, Murton, Osbaldwick, Skelton, StUlington, StrensaU, and Warthill, in Bulmer Wapentake ; Brawby, Salton, and Naw- ton with Wambleton, in Eyedale Wapentake. In the East Riding — Faxfleet North Newbald, and South Newbald, in Hunsley Beacon divison ; Barmby on the Moor, in Wilton Beacon division; and Dunnington, Heslington, and Langwith, in Ouse and Derwent Wapentake. In the West Riding — Dring houses, in the Ainsty ; Brotherton and UUeskelf, in Barkston Ash Wapen take ; and Knaresborough, in Claro Wapentake. Besides these twenty-seven places and parts of places, there are within the liberty ninety-seven detached parcels scattered in most of the Wapentakes of the County. Amongst its privileges the inhabitants and tenants of this Liberty were exempt from the payment of tolls throughout England, Ireland, and Wales. The Deanery is a spacious, commodious, cut stone mansion, on the north side of the Minster Yard, between the Chapter House and the Cathedral Library, erected in 1837, from a design of Messrs. Pritohett & Sons, of York, It is a pleasing architectural object, nearly square, and is according to the style of the Tudor period. The west and principal front consists of four stories, the front being made into three divisions by buttresses and octagonal turrets at the angles. In the first story are three windows, with arched heads ; in the middle division of the second story is an oriel window, which is continued in the third story; the intermediate space between the two windows being filled with quatrefoil, paneUing, roses, &c. The other divi sions contain a square headed window on each story, A continued band with grotesque heads, roses, portcuUis, &c,, extends round the entire building, and the top of the edifice is battlemented. The north side is similar to the one just described, with the exception of having a noble porch instead of the oriel window; and on the south side a low range of buUdings, containing a private passage to the Minster Library, connects it with the latter building. The whole has a very chaste and elegant appearance. The Old Deanery House, which was first erected in 1090, stood on the south east side of the Minster Yard, on the site now occupied by the School of Art or Design, The Residence is situated on the north west side of the Minster Precincts, It was erected in 1835-6, and is simUar in size and form with the Deanery, but the style of architecture is later. The front consists of three stories. In the centre of the first is an arched doorway, and in the centre of the second is a bow window. The third story has three gables, and in each is a square headed window. The east front has in the ground floor and in the upper HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK, 483 story, square projecting windows of five lights each, divided by buttresses ; and some square headed windows of two lights each. The other sides are not visible from the Minster Close, but are of similar architecture. Attached to this building is a handsome garden, which, together with the garden of the Deanery, is divided from the Close by a light raUing of iron, and the portion of the cloisters of the ancient Palace before noticed. The Canons Residentiary occupy the Eesidence alternately three months each year. The Old Residence is a large gloomy looking house, opposite the south east angle of the Minster. The Wills, Sc. Office for the Province of York, is attached to the west side of the south transept of the Cathedral, and is one of those extraneous buildings which greatly disfigure that edifice. Previous to the year 1888, the Will Office was in a smaU old building which stood at the east end of Le Belfrey Church, but in that year the present building was enlarged, and the documents were moved thither. The office now consists of four rooms, one of which is used for searching for and examining wills or administrations. There is an Index kept of the names of the testators and intestates, to whose representatives letters of probate or administration have been granted since 1781. There are, however, copies of wills in it as far back as 1389. The fee for searching this book is one shilling. The average number of wiUs, &c., passing through the office in the course of a year, is about 1,600 wills, and 660 administrations. The records of the Prerogative and Exchequer Courts of the Diocese are also kept here. During the fires of 1839 and 1840, the wiUs were carefully removed under the protection of a detachment of soldiers. They were afterwards safely replaced, and no damage was sustained on either occasion. The building is now entirely fire proof. The records belonging to the Courts of the Dean and Chapter are pre served in part of the building called Archbishop de la Zouche's Chapel. St. WiUiam's College — considerable remains of which stand in the opening of College Street, right opposite the large east window of the Cathedral — ap pears by records to have been founded by King Henry VI, to the honour of St, William, Archbishop of York, " for the Parsons* and Chantry Priests of the Cathedral to reside in ; whereas before they lived promiscuously in houses • A Parson, persona ecclesice, is one that hath fjiU possession of aU the rights of a parochial Church, He is sometimes called the Rector, but " the appeUation of Parson is the most legal, most beneficial, and most honourable title that a parish priest can enjoy," He is caUed Parson, because by his person the Church is represented; and during his life he has the freehold in himself of the Parsonage House, the glebe, the fethes, and the other dues. 484: HISTOEY OF THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK. of laymen and women, contrary to the honour and decency of the said Church, and their spiritual orders." The letters patent directed that this building should be erected " in the Close of York." It does not appear that this grant was put into, execution ; probably the civil dissensions of the time prevented it. But King Edward IV., in the first year of his reign, granted other letters patent of the same tenor, to George NeviUe, Bishop of Exeter, and his brother Eichard, Eari of Warwick, and their heirs, to found and sustain this College, without reciting any of the former grant, and to have the nomination of the Provost of it for ever. This patent, which is large and fuU, and con tains aU the rules and statutes to be observed by the members of the CoUege, is dated at York, May 11th, 1461. The members of St. WiUiam's College consisted of a Provost and twenty-three Chantry priests. The archway forming the entrance, which is a good piece of Perpendicular work, is very ancient, and has above it, in a niche, a dilapidated statue of St. WiUiam, be tween his own arms and those of the See ; and higher up are carved wood figures of the Virgin and Child, and St. Christopher. The gate to this edifice is very old, and contains a wicket evidently coeval with the building. The structure itself is chiefly Jacobean in "style, and forms a quadrangle, enclosing a small court yard, round which are the remains of many curious wooden figures. The principal entrance to the interior from the court yard, is oppo site the outer entrance, and is by a large doorway, the ascent to which is by four stone steps ; and opposite the door a staircase, about eight feet wide, leads to the upper rooms. Several of the apartments ave spacious and curious. The CoUege is now divided into apartments, which are let to several poor families. In 1643, during the residence of Charles I. at York, the royal printing presses are said to have been set up in one of the rooms of this College, and here were printed several of the political and controversial pamphlets which created so much sensation in that day. " From the royal printing office," says Drake, " were issued paper buUets, soon to be changed into- more fatal weapons." The Bedern. — This is the name of a small street leading from Goodramgate to St. Andrewgate, in which was formerly a CoUege of Vicars Choral, be longing to the Cathedral. Though this locality was not within the Minster Close, yet it is always classed with that district, on account of its connection. From an inquisition taken in tbe 4th of Edward I, (1376), the site of the Bedern appears to have been given "to God, St, Peter, and the Vicars serving God, in pure and perpetual alms," by one WiUiam de Lunam, Canon of the Cathedral, There were originaUy thirty-six of those vicars choral, according to the number of the prebendal stalls, each Canon having his own HISTOEY OP THE CATHEDEAL OP YOEK, 485 pecuUar vicar to attend and officiate for him ; receiving for their services the annual sum of forty shiUings each. The duty of the vicars choral, besides attending the daily service, was formerly to perform the offices for the dead in the different Chapels and Chantries of the Cathedral both day and night. It was therefore convenient to have a place near it, in which to reside. The chantries and obits, from which the vicars choral derived their support, being dissolved, their number is now reduced to five. The whole College and site of the Bedern was sold in the 3nd of Edward VI, to TJiomas Goulding and others, for £1,934, 10s, Id., but this sale was disannulled, and it was given to the Dean and Chapter of the Cathedral, The Bedern Chapel, which is stiU standing, was founded in 1348, and dedicated to the Holy Trinity, the Blessed Virgin, and St. Katherine. It is now no longer used for the general services of the Church, but is confined to the baptism of children and churching of women ; though up to about eight years ago Divine Service was performed in it every Wednesday. The exterior of the edifice is very plain. The side abutting on the street has a pointed doorway, and three square-headed windows, with a plain vacant niche ; the other side of the building has four square-headed windows; and on the roof is a small wooden bell turret. The interior still retains its ancient furniture, though in a dilapidated state. The altar piece is curious ; consisting of panel ling of pointed architecture in wood, with crockets, pinnacles, &c. ; and there are some ancient wooden stalls, and an old octagonal stone font on a circular pedestal. The old CoUegiate HaU, where the vicars usuaUy dined in common, is now converted into dweUings, and parts of the ancient outer walls of the edifice, with the evident remains of Gothic windows, and other vestiges of former days, may yet be traced on the south side of the buildings behind the houses that abut on the street a Uttle beyond the Chapel. The Bedern clearly owes its name to the circumstance of its being the residence of the vicars choral. Bede was formerly used for the verb to pray, and Erne impUes a solitary place or detached dwelling ; so that Bedern evi dently signifies a cloister set apart for one or more reUgious to dwell in. The Bedern is the presumed site of a part of the Eoman Imperial Palace, or of the baths connected with the Palace, When the Bedern was in its prosperity, there were gates to enclose the whole opening into Goodramgate; and a porter's lodge stood on one side. Up to the year 1863 the Bedern had the appearance of a long narrow court or yard, having no outlet but at one end — in Goodramgate — but recent improvements have formed it into a street which connects Goodramgate with St, Andrewgate, 486 ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OP YOEK. In the vicissitudes of human events this once splendid seat of Eoman grandeur and imperial honour, and subsequently of ecclesiastical splendour, is now the sad receptacle of poverty and wretchedness — the poorest of the Irish emigrants being its chief inhabitants. During the progress of the im provements here in 1853, a number of coins were found concealed in an old flower-pot and coffee-pot. They were principally of the reigns of EUzabeth, James I., and Charles I. In the earliest days of the Christian era many devout persons sought to remove themselves from the contagion of the world, by renouncing all worldly possessions and dedicating themselves entirely to the service of God. These persons sought retirement in the barren deserts of Egypt, and lived sepa rately as hermits or anchorites. About the middle of the third century, St. Anthony, or Antony, an Egyptian by birth, was the first to draw these devout solitaries into religious communities. They then obtained the name of monks, or cenobites, the word monk meaning a person in solitude. In course of time no less than fifty Monasteries were erected in Egypt by the disciples of St. Anthony, and that Saint's sister coUected together, and presided over a community of virgins or nuns. This, the flrst Nunnery recorded in history, is said to have been founded in a.d. 373. From Egypt the spirit of the monastic institute spread through Syria, Palestine, &c. St. Athanasius in troduced it into Eome, and the celebrated St. Martin of Tours into Gaul. A Nunnery was founded in the year 360, in Poictiers, by the sister of St. Mar tin. The exact time of its introduction into this country is not known, but it appears to have been established here on the first introduction of Chris tianity into Britain, for, as we have seen at page 76 of this volume, the Venerable Bede states that there was a large Monastery at Bangor in the fourth century. Upon the re-introduction of the Christian faith into Britain, towards the latter part of the sixth century, by Benedictine Monks from Eome, the monastic spirit was quickly infused into the new converts to Christianity, as has been intimated at page 81. King Ealbad is said to have instituted the first Nunnery in Britain, in Folkstone, in the year 680. St. Benedict, the founder of many of the Monasteries in the west, drew up a rule for the government of his monks, which has become, more or less. ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YOEK. 487 the foundation of the laws of the various Eeligious Orders which have sprung up since his day. According to the rule of St. Benedict, six hours were al lotted for sleep ; soon after midnight the monks arose to chant the matin service in the Church, and during the day they were summoned seven times to the Church to recite the canonical office, which consisted of psalms, prayers, and lessons from the Scripture. Seven hours were employed in manual labour, two in study, and the remainder was devoted to the necessary refreshment of the body. The diet of the monks was exceedingly simple. Alien Priories or CeUs subservient to foreign Monasteries were numerous, and extended to all parts of Britain, The origin of these establishments is as foUows : — When the Kings of England were possessed of large territories in France, many French Monasteries had endowments of lands in England, and foreign monks came to reside here, and were associated in Priories or CeUs, for the purpose of collecting the revenues arising from those endow ments, and of remitting them to France, The early Kings of England seized the revenues of many of these alien establishments, in times of war with France ; and in the reign of Henry V., aU such houses in England as were under the immediate direction of foreigners were dissolved, and their revenues given to ^he Crown ; it being then considered contrary to the in terest of the state that foreigners should hold such establishments in Eng land, and be allowed to convey money into an enemy's country, without receiving any valuable return for it. Some of the Alien Priories, however, which were conventual, or entire societies of themselves, and not accountable for their revenues to any foreign Monastery, continued to exist tiU the general dissolution of religious houses in the reign of Henry VIII, Granges, according to Fuller, were often the residences of the heads of religious houses, or, strictly and properly speaking, Granges were the farms of Monasteries, where the religious reposited their corn. There was a house keeper, or, hospitalis frater grangia, at every grange, and the bailiff who managed the farm was called the (sh'angiary. Granges were sometimes moated and otherwise fortified, A farm with a house at a distance from other houses is now often called a Grange, We now proceed to give a seriatim account of the religious Hospitals of York, St, Leonaed's Hospital, — This Hospital, which was the most ancient religious institution in York, and one of the noblest foundations of the kind in Britain, was founded by the Anglo-Saxon King, Athelstan, in a,d, 936, under the foUowing circumstances - — ^In an expedition to the north, the par ticulars of which wiU be found at page 98 of this volume, that Monarch 488 ANCIENT eeligious HOUSES OP YOEK, visited three reUgious places— Beverley, Durham, and York— where he so Ucited the benefit of their devout prayers on his behalf, promising that if he succeeded weU therein he would abundantiy recompense them for the same. Having obtained a decisive victory over Constantine, the Scottish King, and others, Athelstan returned to York, where he offered his hearty thanks to God in the Cathedral, He there observed certain religious men, then caUed Coledei, who relieved many poor people out of their slender means ; and to enable these people better to sustain the poor, as well as to fulfil his royal promise, he granted to God, St, Peter, and the said Coledei, and their suc cessors for ever, certain emoluments accruing to the Crown in the Bishopric of York, This grant consisted of " one thrave of corn out of every carucate of land, or every plough going, within the Bishopric of York, and which to this day is caUed Peter corn." This corn rent, which was then given to the Coledei, had been originaUy granted to the Crown for the encouragement of persons who employed themselves in destroying the wolves, which were then so numerous that they overran the country, and devoured the cattle of the viUages. Possessed of this income, and a piece of waste ground which also the Ejng gave them, the Coledei founded for themselves an Hospital in the City. WilUam the Conqueror, and his successor WUUam Eufus, confirmed and enlarged the endowment. The latter Monarch removed the site of the Hospital to the place where the ruins now stand. He likewise built them a smaU Church, which was dedicated, as the Hospital had been, to St. Peter. Henry I. granted to them the close or field extending from their house to the river Ouse ; confirmed to the Hospital certain other lands ; freed them from gelds and customs ; and granted to them the liberties of sac, soe, tol, theme, and infangtheof. And as a more particular mark of his favour, Henry also took to himself the name of a brother and warden of this Hospital ; " Frater enim et custos ejusdem domus Dei sum." When the Hospital was burnt down in the great fire of 1137, (See page 133), King Stephen rebuUt it in a more magnificent manner, and caused it to be dedicated to God in honour of St. Leonard, and it was ever after called Hospitalis S. Leonardi. This King caused Nigel, Mayor of York, to deliver up a certain place near the west walls of the City, to receive the poor and lame ; and he confirmed the thraves, which then were " aU the oats which had been used to be gathered betwixt the river Trent and Scotland, for finding the King's hounds, which was twenty fair sheaves of corn of each plow-land by the year, and appointed the Dean and Canons of the Cathedral Church to gather them for the relief of the said Hospital." The privUeges and possessions of this Hospital were confirmed by Henry ANCIENT eeligious HOUSES OF YOEK, 489 II,, King John, and several succeeding Monarchs, and much enlarged by the munificence aud piety of several noblemen and others, . King John ratified its possession by charter, and also granted to the brethren timber for their buildings, wood for fuel, and pasturage for their cattle, through his whole forest of Yorkshire, In the 37th of Edward I. (1399) that Monarch granted to the " Master and Brethren of St, Leonard's Hospital" liberty to take down the wall of the said Hospital, which extended from Blake Street to Bootham Bar, and to set up a new wall for enlarging the court of it. In the 3nd of Henry VI, (1434) all the confirmations, privileges, charters, &c, of this Hos pital — and they were unusually numerous — were sanctioned by Act of Par Uament, Though the Hospital was in the coUation of the Dean and Chapter of York, it was not subject to any visitor but the King or his deputies. The number of its inmates, according to Drake, was 90 : viz, — a master or warden, 18 brethren, 4 secular priests," 8 sisters, 30 choristers, 3 schoolmasters, 36 headmen, and 6 servitors, Thomas Magnus was the Master at the dissolu tion, when the revenues were valued at £363, lis, l|d,, equal, it is probable, to nearly £8,000, at the present time. The advowson was granted by the King, in 1554, to Sir Arthur Darcy'and Sir Thomas Clifford, knights, and John BoUes, gentleman, their executors and assigns. The coucher book belonging to the Hospital has been deposited in the Cottonian Library, The site of the house was early devoted by the Archbishops of York to the erec tion of their mint, and from this circumstance the area had long been caUed the Mint Yard, After passing through various persons, the whole property devolved to George, Lord SaviUe, Viscount Halifax ; and being extra-paro chial, an attempt was made in 1687 to estabUsh a mart there, which was prevented by the City by a writ of ad quod damnum. Fearful that the attempt to estabUsh a mart might be renewed, the Corporation purchased the whole premises, buildings, and privUeges, connected therewith, in 1676, for the sum of £800, ; and the premises were divided and let out on lease. Since then the Theatre, the handsome crescent called St, Leonard's Place, and several commodious houses, stables, &c., have been erected on the site of the Hospital. The chief existing remains of this interesting estabUshment stand imme diately within the entrance to the gardens of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society's Museum, They consist of what in aU probability were the ambu latory and Chapel of the infirmary of the Hospital, and are commonly caUed the Cloisters of St. Leonard's Hospital. The portion of this cloister standing is in a pretty perfect state, and is weU deserving the notice of the antiquarian. The style of architecture is Early Norman, and it is the finest specimen of 3 E 490 ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YOEK. that fashion of building in the City. It now consists of three aisles, divided by octagonal pUlars, with a smaU abacus or capital, from which spring the ribs that support the groined roof. Against the waU, at the north end of the cloister, is a large but ancient stone statue, supposed to represent St. Leo nard. The figure is seated in a chair, having drapery over its shoulders, and the head exhibiting the tonsure of a monk. It was formerly placed over the old gateway of the Hospital. A great part of the old waUs of this ancient • establishment were taken down in March, 1783, for the purpose of admitting carriages to the theatre in the Mint Yard ; and again in 1833, when St. Leonard's Place was formed. When these alterations were made, several beautiful old arches belonging to the buildings of the Hospital were exhibited -to view, but were doomed to give place to the modern improvements. In his remarks on the remains of St. Leonard's Hospital, Mr. WeUbeloved says, " the covered cloister, or ambulatory, appears to have consisted of five or perhaps six aisles, in two of which were a large fire-place ; for the benefit, no doubt, of the infirm and sickly, for whose use the ambulatory was de signed. The exterior aisle, on the side towards the Multangular Tower, was most probably enclosed by a wall. Above the ambulatory were the chambers or wards of the infirmary, adjoining to which is the small but beautiful Chapel, opening to the chamber, so that the sick persons who were confined to their beds might have the comfort of witnessing the celebration of the divine offices. The eastern end of the Chapel indicates the period of its erection, the style of the architecture being that of the early part of the thirteenth century,* The ambulatory belongs to rather an earlier age. How access was obtained to the chamber and the Chapel does not clearly appear, -their being no remains of a staircase. Adjoining the ambulatory is the ancient entrance into the Hospital from the river, on the bank of which was a staith, or wharf, appropriated to the Hospital, called St, Leonard's Landing ; and adjoining to this entrance, on the site of the present street, there was another aisle, the use of which is not known. The staircase leading to the infirmary and the Chapel, of which there are no traces remaining, may have been at the northern end of it. Of the use to which the room under the Chapel, unconnected with any other, was appUed, no satisfactory account can be given."t At the northern end of the cloisters are the remams of two . This Chapel appears to have been solely for the accommodation of the sick and it is very probable that there also was a Church belonging to the Hospital,_ An arch found in tiie excavations for St, Leonard's Place, and which is now deposited m the Museum, is supposed, by the Eev. Curator of Antiquities, to have belonged to that Church. + Descriptive account of the Antiquities in the Grounds of the Museum. ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OP YOEK. 491 rows of pillars, ranged parallel to the Roman waU, which here runs from the cloisters to the Multangular Tower. Mr. WeUbeloved cannot give a satis factory account of this portion of the ruin, but he thinks il highly probable that there are the remains of corresponding pillars, by whioh an aisle had been formed iu'the adjacent ground, which is not in the possession of the Philosophical Society. For ages were the beautiful ruins of this religious establishment completely enveloped in old buildings, and no idea had been entertained of their ex istence. When Allen wrote, in 1839, the cloisters were occupied as wine vaults ; they now form one of the most interesting reUcs in York, of times that were ; and affords another evidence of the great anxiety of the Philo sophical Society to preserve the antiquities of this ancient City, for it was they that cleared these cloisters from the buUdings with which they were sur rounded, and by annexing them to their already spacious grounds, protected them from further injury. St. Maey's Abbey. — This once noble and magnificent Abbey, which for nearly five centuries maintained so high a rank among the religious estab lishments of the country, was situated on the north side of the City, on a fine spot of ground nearly square, which sloped gently from without Bootham Bar to the river Ouse. Its early history is involved in much obscurity, and it is difficult to reconcile the scattered notices of it found in some of the oldest and most respectable of our ecclesiastical historians, with the inter esting narrative of its origin by the first Abbot, Stephen de Whitby, happily preserved by one of his successors, Simon de Warwick. According to Ingul phus there was a Monastery here before the Conquest, founded by Siward, a noble Dane and Earl of Northumberland, and in which he was interred in 1056 ; and Hoveden, noticing the burial of Siward a year earUer, calls the Monastery Galmanho. Ingulphus, in another page of his history, speaking of the " comprofessi " who came from other Monasteries for the hospitalities of Croyland, in 1076, names six monks of " S. Mariee Eboracum." Bishop Tanner observes that it no where else appears that there were then any religious of that denomination in the City; and Burton makes a simUar assertion ; but notwithstanding the opinion of these two learned authorities, it seems certain that the Abbey was founded and built in the reign of the Conqueror, and his successor WiUiam Rufus, on a site " which some religious had before occupied." The Eev. C. WeUbeloved, in an interesting account of the Abbey, addressed to the Society of Antiquarians of London,* says, • Printed by the Society, with numerous views in the Vetusa Monumenta, vol. v. 493 ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YOEK. " The Monastery of St. Mary, and the Monastery of Galmanho were the same ; the former appeUation denoting the patron saint to whom it was de dicated, the latter the place in which it was situated. And further, the Monastery of which Hoveden and Ingulphus write, and which Elfwin restored, was undoubtedly the same as that which was founded anew by WiUiam Rufus '; for Hoveden has not only told us of the restoration of an Abbey at York! dedicated to St. Mary, by Elfwin, but he has preserved the names of the four first Abbots— Stephen, Eichard, Gaufrid, and Severinus; during the government of the last of whom he himself flourished; and these were the Abbots who presided over the Monastery which claims WilUam TL. as its most distinguished, if not its eariiest benefactor. Leland enables us to account for the appeUation Galmanho ; for, speaking of the last estabUshment, he des cribes it as being built without the walls of York, at or near the place where the dirt of the City was deposited, and criminals executed. Now the common instrument of execution, the gaUows, was in Saxon caUed galga ; and thence, as Lye has shown, Galman and Galmanho were derived."* Drake, in his Eboracum, says " there is great reason and authority for supposing that there was a Monastery standing at or near the site of this Abbey in the time of the Danes and Saxons ; that it was buUt by Siward, the valiant Earl of Northumbria, and that he was buried in it. The Monas tery was at that time dedicated to St. Olave, the Danish King and martyr ; and, indeed, it retained that name even after WiUiam the Conqueror had re- founded it, tiU, by WUliam TL., it was changed to that of St. Mary." To sum up the several accounts of the origin of this Abbey, it seems very probable that about the year 1050, Earl Siward, who was as famous for his goodness and piety as he was for his valour, began to erect a Monastery here ; but that he proceeded no further than the building of the Church of the estabUshment, which he dedicated to St. Olave, and in which he is said to have been buried. But the Monastery itself appears not to have been begun, or if begun, not so far advanced at the death of Siward as to be occupied by any religious persons. " The premature decease of the founder, and the state of anarchy and con fusion into which the province that he had governed, with almost regal authority, immediately fell," says Mr. WeUbeloved, " appear to have prevented the completion of the work, and it remained in its unfinished condition till the arrival of the Norman Conqueror. Six years after the Conquest three zealous monks, Aldwine, Elfwine, and Reinfrid, from the Abbey at Evesham, * Lye, Diet. Sax. in verb. Galmanho, ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YOEK. 493 came into the north with the view of reviving the monastic life there, almost extinct through the long continued violence of the Danish invaders. Having been very successful in their mission on the banks of the Tyne, Reinfrid came southwards to Streaneshalh (Whitby), where stiU remained the ruins of a Saxon Convent, founded by St. Hilda. Here he was allowed by Earl Perci, to whom this fee belonged, to build a Priory (afterwards the Abbey of Whitby), and was soon joined by several who had devoted themselves to a monastic life. Among these was one named Stephen, to whom the government of the Priory was committed."* This Stephen was the first Abbot, as well as the historian of St. Mary's ; and he appears to justify the assertion of Burton and Tanner, for he takes no notice of any prior establishment, excepting the Church of St. Olave. From his narrative we learn that he, Stephen, had been Prior of the Convent of Whitby ; but that he and some of his monks having given somc offence to Earl Perci, were forcibly expelled from that place, and took refuge at Lasting ham, in the eastern moors, where a religious house had been established in the Saxon times. Prom the latter place they were also driven by the same powerful Baron, In this afflicting state their condition was commiserated by Alan, Earl of Eichmond and of Bretagne, who in 1078 gave them the Church of St. Olave, founded by Siward, near the City of York, and four acres of land adjoining, to build suitable offices upon. He also obtained for them the licence and aid of the King to found a religious establishment, and to complete what Siward had left unfinished. Thomas, the Norman Archbishop, for some cause or other, conceived a violent dislike towards this new monastic fraternity, and forthwith com menced a suit against Earl Alan for appropriating the four acres of land, which he aUeged were his property ; whereupon WilUam the Conqueror, to compose the difference, promised the Archbishop other lands in lieu of them, .and so the affair ceased for a time. This hostile relation between these two branches of the Church does not appear to have at all retarded the prosperity of the new establishment, for in 1088 William II,, being at York, visited the Monastery, "and seeing that the building was too strait and narrow, he pro jected a larger, and with his own hand first opened the ground for laying the foundation of the Church of the Monastery,"! An ancient parchment, * Descriptive Account of the Antiquities in the Grounds of the Museum. t " There is evidence in what remains of the entrance to the Chapter House, and in many of the carved fragments that have been recently disinterred, that the buUdings of the Monastery were not completed prior to the reign of Stephen; perhaps not so early," — Rev. C. WeUbeloved, ^94: ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OP YOEK. formerly preserved in St. Mary's Tower, dates the foundation in 1089, when the dedication of the Church was changed from St. Olave to St. Mary.' The Monastery erected, the royal founder endowed it with several lands "free from aU legal exaction for ever;" Eari Alan having previously given the monks the hamlet of Marygate, then caUed Earisborough (doubtiess from the rank of its owner), upon the same conditions ; and not long after our good friend Alan dying," says the annaUst, "the King, for the sake of his soul, gave us the towns of CUfton and Overton, which were of his demesne." At the foundation of WiUiam II., as has already been observed, the Monasterjr received the titie of the "Abbey of St. Mary at York ;" and in that Mon arch's charter, various lands are enumerated which had been bestowed upon the monks by the Conqueror, his predecessor. From this time the munifi cence and piety of princes and nobles enriched the Abbey so that it soon became opulent. Archbishop Thomas, subsequent to the increased endowment of the Monas tery, renewed his claim for the four acres of land ; whereupon Stephen, the Abbot, appealed to the King in a fuU CouncU of the nation, held at Gloucester, and the suit was finally settied. The immunities and privUeges granted to this estabUshment by WilUam and his successors. Kings of England, were very great. By King WilUam's charter, the lands of the Abbey were ex empt from all regal exactions ; and in case the Sheriff or his officers had any complaint against the tenants of St. Mary's, they were first to acquaint the Abbot therewith, and at an appointed time to come to the gates of the Abbey, and there receive justice and right; and moreover, the "homines sanctse Mariee " were exempt from attendance on juries, or at the County Courts, as weU as at the meetings of the Eidings, Wapentakes, and Hundreds. It is recorded that the Minster and Abbey were consumed by fire in the reign of King Stephen, in 1187, when the greater part of the City was burnt down ; but Mr. WeUbeloved, who has had good opportunities of judging, says, "if either of these buUdings suffered from the fire at that time, the injury, it is probable, was of no great extent." According to Dugdale, Abbot Simon de Warwick undertook the erection of a new and enlarged Abbey Church in the year 1370. Sitting in his chair, with trowel in his hand, the whole Convent standing about him, he laid the first stone, and Uved to see the work completed. The rebuilding of the other parts of the Abbey doubtless foUowed, but there is no record of the works extant. Simon de Warwick is said also to have built the waUs and towers surrounding the close of the Abbey. King Henry II., by his charter, confirmed the privileges granted to the ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OP YOEK. 495 Abbey of St. Mary by WiUiam IL, adding to them certain Uberties and cus toms which had before been peculiar to the Churches of St. Peter, at York, and St. John at Beverley ; ordaining also that when the men of the County were summoned to serve in the King's army, the Abbot of this Monastery should find a man to carry the banner or standard of St. Mary, in the same manner as other great Churches sent their banners. The immunities granted by the charter of WUUam II. and Henry II. were confirmed by nearly every succeeding Sovereign to the time of Henry VIIL, and even that Monarch, in the first year of his reign, by a large charter, confirmed aU the liberties of the the Convent, In consequence of extensive and extravagant powers and privileges which the Abbey possessed, considerable animosity long existed between the citizens and the monks or their tenants or dependants, and acts of violence sometimes ensued. In 1363 the citizens slew several of their men, and burned a number of their houses out of Bootham Bar ; and a reconciliation was not effected tUl Simon, the Abbot, paid one hundred pounds as a peace offering to the enraged party ; and he was so terrified, that he left his Monastery for more than a year. Soon after this the Abbot obtained pemission of the King to build a wall on each unprotected side of the Abbey, the rampart of earth by which it had been previously enclosed not being sufficient to protect it from the hostile attacks of the citizens, as weU as for a better defence against the incursions of the Scots ; hence arose the high wall adjoining to Bootham and Marygate, The annals of the Convent thus particularises these waUs, which were con structed with battlements, towers, and a wooden gallery within, and com pleted in 1366, From Bootham Bar to Marygate Tower,* 194 yards; from Marygate Tower to Lendal Tower abutting upon the river Ouse, 430 yards ; from the West Tower to the tower on the south, 346 yards ; and from thence by the rampart of the City to Bootham Bar, 430 yards. The whole circum ference of the enclosed area was nearly three quarters of a mUe, * The circular tower at the north-east angle of the Abbey walls, at the corner of Marygate, in Bootham, is called St. Mary's Tower. In it were placed, after the Eefor mation, the ancient records of all the religious houses north of the Trent, under the charge of the Lord President of the North, It was Ukewise the deposit for some of the royal records of Chancery, until the siege of York, in 1644, when the tower was blown up, and many valuable documents were partly destroyed, and partiy buried in the ruins. The date of this buUding is uncertain, though it is probably the work of the Abbot, Simon de Warwick. Mr. Dodsworth, in his preparations for the original edition of the Monasticon, before he was joined by Dugdale, had made numerous transcripts from the records preserved in this tower, which were afterwards presented to the Bodleian li brary, Oxford, by Thomas Lord Fairfax. 496 ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OP" YOEK. The religious of this Abbey were Black Monks of the Order of St. Bene dict, and had a psalter compiled for the especial use of their Convent. It was agreed upon and published in 1390, and the original volume is now in the library of Jesus College, Cambridge. The superior was a mitred Abbot, and as such had a seat in ParUament, which entitled him to the dignified appeUation of " my lord." The Abbot of Selby and himself were the only two in the north of England who enjoyed this distinction. The Archbishop of York, for the time being, had power, once a year, to visit St. Mary's Abbey for the purpose of correcting or reforming, by the council of the brethren, and by some of his Canons, any abuses that might be introduced. The Lord Abbot possessed several splendid country houses, the principal of which were at Deigbton and 'Overton viUages, about three miles distant ; and his town residence was near St. Paul's Wharf, London. He had also a spacious park at Benningbrough, which was always well stocked with game ; and whenever he travelled abroad in his ecclesiastical character, his retinue was nearly as sumptuous as that of the Archbishop, to whom he was very little inferior in other respects. Thus did all go weU with this famous Benedictine Abbey till the reign of Henry VIIL, when alas ! all its beauty, splendour, riches, and power, could not save it from its impending doom. The' Commissioners were dispatched to take an inventory of its effects, and that enormous spoliation, that is veiled under the soft word dissolution, soon foUowed. In 1540, when it was surrendered to the King, the establishment consisted of fifty monks, including the Abbot, Prior, and Sub-Prior, and probably about 150 servants. The last Abbot, WiUiam Thornton, or William Dent, ob tained a pension of four hundred marks per annum, for the readiness with which he obeyed the King's commands. The value of the revenues, ac cording to Dugdale, amounted to £1,550. 7s. 9d. per annum. Speed says £3,085. Is. 5f d., " which," observes Drake, " considering that these com putations were then usually made by those that had a mind to be purchasers, and the difference of money then and now, the bare rents of the lands would amount to an inconceivable value at this day." In the Valor of the 36th of Henry VIII. (1636), however, the total clear yearly income of the Monastery was rated at £3,091. 4s. 7id. ; and the clear annual value at £1,660. Os. 7jd. — an enormous sum in those days. This Abbey had six CeUs or branch estabUshments, viz. — the Priory of St. Bees, or Bega, in Cumberland, valued at the dissolution at £143. 17s. 3id.; the Priory of St. Constantine, at WetheraU, in the same County, valued at £117. lis. lOid.; St. Martin's, near Eichmond, valued at £43. I63. 8d.; ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OP YOEK. 497 the Priory of Eomburch, in Cambridgeshire, no valuation ; the Priory of Sandtoft, in Lincolnshire, no valuation ; and the Cell of St. Mary Magdalen, near the City of Lincoln. The Arms of St. Manfs Abbey are az. on a cross gu., a bezant charged with the demi-figure of a King, crowned, and holding ; a key in the first quarter. In the procession roll to Parliament in 1613, the key is wanting. In the Eboracum Drake has given an engraving of a very ancient and rude seal of this Abbey, appendant to a deed of the time of Edward IV. The figure of the Blessed Virgin and Infant Saviour in her lap forms the device. In the office of the Duchy of Lancaster is a seal of Abbot Eobert, to a deed without a date, but apparently of the thirteenth century. It represents an Abbot at full length ; in his right hand a crozier, in his left a book ; legend, SiGiLLVM EoBEETi AlBbatis Beate Maeie Eboe. In the Augmentation office is a deed made by Abbot William of York, dated 5 th of Edward IV. (1466), which has appended to it the official seal of the Abbot. The subject is two female figures in two compartments, with two Gothic canopies ; and all that remains of the legend is Sigilltm Peivatum. There is another seal of this Abbey in the Chapter House of Westminster, appendant to an instrument of the 31st of Henry VIH. (1530). It is a large oval seal of the then Abbot, mitred, but without a crozier, standing between two shields of arms, under a rich Gothic canopy. At the feet, between two tassels, is another shield of arms, and underneath is a fish placed horizontally. Le gend, S. Dni. Edmundi. WhaUey. Abbatis. Ecclesie. Beate: Marie. Juxta. Ebor. ABBOTS OF ST. MAEY'S, YOEK. DIED A.D. 1 .—Stephen de Whitby 1113 2.— Eichard 1131 3,— Godfrid 1132 4, — Savaricus 1161 5,— Clement 1184 6. — Eobert de Harpham 1189 7, — Eobert de Longo Campo 1339 8,— WUliam de Eondela , , i 1344 9,— Thomas de WarthiU 1358 10.— Simon de Warwick 1296 11,— Benedict de Malton 1303 13,— John de GylUng 1313 13,— AUan de Nesse 1331 14,— Thomas de. Multon 1359 15, — WilUam Marreys or Marcys 1383 DIED A.D, 16.— WUUam Brydford, D.D 1389 17. — Thomas Stayngreve 1398 18.— Thomas Pigot 1405 19. — Thomas de Spofforth* 20. — ^WUUam Dalton 1423 21.— WUUam WeUyst 23. — Eoger Kirkeby 1438 23, — John Cottingham 1464 34. — Thomas Bothe 1485 35,— -WUUam Sever| 36. — Eobert Warhop or Wanhop, , , ,1507 37. — Edmund Thornton ] 521 28, — Edmund Walley or WhaUey , . 1639 39,— WUliam Thornton (or Dent) con tinued tUl the dissolution. * In 1422 he was translated to the See of Hereford, + In 1436 he was consecrated Bishop of Eochester. J In 1503 he was translated to the See of Durham. 3 s 498 ancient eeligious houses op yoek. To account for the rapid destruction of the many splendid monastic edifices in this country, which though shorn of their ancient glories, are still " Great in ruin, and noble in decay," it must be borne in mind that at their dissolu tion the large establishments were for the most part granted by the King to noble or wealthy families, in consideration of service, or of payment of a sum of money ; and that it was not unnatural for the new owners, under the ap prehensions excited by the unsettled State of the Eeformation, to hasten and complete the work of demolition, which religious zeal had begun. The Abbey of St, Mary was retained by the Crown, yet it shared in the fate which befel the greater part of the reUgious houses in England at that period. Soon after the monks vacated it, an order for its destruction was issued, with directions to erect on its site out of the ruins, a residence for the Lord Presi dents of the North, to be called the King's Manor, in order " that the very name and memory of the Abbey might be lost for ever,'' The site chosen for this edifitie was that of the south transept of the Church, and the buildings of the Abbey, which extended from the transept to nearly the wall of the Abbey close, including the Chapter House, with its vestibule; also the library, the scriptorium, and several other rooms, the use of which is not known. In fact it stood ou the ground now occupied by the Yorkshire Mu seum, but it extended over a greater space ; and in the lower apartments of the Museum may now be seen a portion of the foundations of the front wall of this mansion, with the fire-place of the room of the Abbey, through which the wall was carried. The two fine vaults at the end of the play-ground of the School for the Blind likewise belonged to this residence. These cellars, which are arched with stone, and measure 139 feet long by 38 feet wide, and -11 feet high, and in each of which is a well of exceUent water, stand beneath the ruins of the kitchen and other domestic offices of that mansion, and are erroneously stated by some to have been the ceUars of St, Mary's Abbey, (See page 346,) In 1701, such of the buildings of the Abbey as still remained were granted by WilUam III, to the Magistrates of the County, to be employed in the erection of the County Gaol, or what are caUed the " Old Buildings " of York Castle. In 1705 the neighbouring Church of St. Olave was extensively repaired from the same quarter; and in 1717 the Corporation of Beverley was allowed to carry away, during the space of three years, as much stone as was required for the restoration of Beverley Minster. In the supply of mate rials for these and some minor works, the decayed part of the Manor Palace, the wall by the river, with those buildings of the Monastery which had not before been destroyed, almost totaUy disappeared. Large quantities of the ancient eeligious houses of YOEK. 499 hallowed stone of the conventual Church were even burnt into lime upon the spot, and conveyed to different parts of the country. " That after such repeated and extensive spoliations one stone should be left standing upon another, to mark the spot on which this once splendid establishment flourished, is a matter of pleasing astonishment," writes Mr. Allen, " that no more remains must ever be deeply regretted by aU who are capable of forming any just conception, from the little that violence and time have spared, of the exquisite taste and unrivalled elegance that distingushed the original structure. Unaided by those circumstances which usually ac company, and throw an indescribable charm around the mouldering monu ments of ancient piety, the ruins of the conventual Church of St. Mary have afforded a favourite subject for the pencil of the artist, and gratified even the most fastidious lover of the picturesque. No one ever visited York with any curiosity to behold the relics of its former greatness and splendour, and con templated without admiration a scene which familiarity deprives not of the power to interest and deUght. No lover of ancient ecclesiastical architecture ever walked over that part of the close of the Monastery of St. Mary acces sible to the visitant, without thinking of the once magnificent refectory, the retired cloister, the splendid Chapter House, on the site of which he was treading, without feeUng an earnest wish that the research, which had been " attended with so much success at WhaUey and at Jervaulx, might here also be undertaken ; or, without indulging the confident hope that it would be as amply rewarded by curious and valuable discoveries. A fortunate concur rence of circumstances has at length realized such wishes, justified such a hope, and added to our means of investigating the economy of monastic establishments. "* Mr. AUen here aUudes to the grant from the Crown which the Yorkshire Philosophical Society received in 1837, of nearly three acres of ground within the ancient precincts of the Abbey, including the remains of the Abbey Church, with the exception of the choir; and to the subsequent excavations carried on by that body, by which the ground plan of the monastic buildings, intersected by the massive foundations of the Manor Palace, were discovered and laid bare. This Society selected as the site of the building for their Museum, &c., the spot upon which the front part of the Lord President's mansion had formerly stood, and which at an earlier period had been occupied by the range of the buildings and apartments of the Abbey. Upon removing the rubbish, and opening the ground, considerable portions of the waUs of * History of Yorkshire, Book iii., page 370. 500 ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OP YOEK. the Monastery, of spacious and elegant doorways, of columns of varied forms, rising to the height of five or six feet, standing as they did before the Abbey was dismantled, were brought to light. In the intervening spaces were scattered numberless fragments of capitals, mouldings, and rich tracery work. Of similar materials the foundation walls of the Palace, upon being broken up, were found to consist. "Not an hour passed," says Allen, "without bringing to light some long buried beautiful specimens of the art and fancy of the monastic sculptor, some memorial of departed splendour, to gratify the eye, to exercise the imagination, to send back the thoughts to times and per sons, and manners, long passed away." The Rev. C. WeUbeloved, the late E. Strickland, Esq., and a few lovers of antiquarian research, raised a subscription for the purpose of extending the excavations beyond what was necessary for the foundations of the Mu seum, and when this sum was exhausted, the Council of the Society under took the completion of the work so happily begun ; and thus was discovered the situation and extent of the chief buildings that composed this splendid monastic establishment. The Church of the Abbey was 371 feet in length, 60 feet in breadth, and was cruciform in shape, with a central tower. That picturesque ruin, which consists of a part of the north wall of the nave, containing the spaces of "eight windows, and portions of the clustered columns at each end of the nave, is aU that remains of the splendid edifice. The tracery, and in some of the windows the muUions, have entirely disappeared. The nave and choir had two side aisles ; the transepts had only one aisle, on the eastern side. There was only one entrance to the nave at the western end; on the northern side was another doorway; and on the southern side, near the transept, was an entrance from the quadrangle, and probably there was anotherfrom the western end near the dormitory. The remains of the western front of the Church must have beeu, in its perfect state, exceedingly beautiful. It was divided into three divisions by buttresses, crowned with turrets or spires and crocketed pinnacles. The ornaments about the doorway have been singulariy elegant, chaste, and graceful. In the deep hoUow moulding between every column is figured the shoot of a vine, rising from the bottom and forming at the top a foliated capital. At the eastern end of the nave are the remains of the four piers that supported the central tower. The extent of the transepts is also shewn by the remaining bases of the piUars. Of the choir (which was of unusual length) nothing is loft but the bases of the piUars and waUs. This portion of the ruin is in the grounds of the School for the Blind, which adjoin the Museum gardens. The general style of the ruins is Decorated, and it ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OP YOEK. 501 certainly forms a very interesting specimen of the time of Henry HI. This Church, when perfect, must have almost rivalled the Minster in beauty. Sufficient yet remains of the ruins of the Abbey to carry the mind back to other times, and to indicate the labours and the resting place of the first Abbot, Stephen de Whitby, who died in 1113, and whose supposed tombstone, thus inscribed, is seen in a small court east of the ruins of the Church ; Hic Jacet : Stepans Ab. B. Jspn. This stone, which measures 6 feet 3^ inches long, by 3 feet IJ inches wide, and 7 inches thick, is much mutilated, and the inscription is scarcely legible. The great quadrangle, in its usual situa tion on the south side of the nave, was probably furnished with a penthouse cloister on every side. In the western cloister the school of the Monastery was usually kept ; and near this side fragments of painted tUes were found, having on them the letters of the alphabet in characters of the fourteenth century, which were read from right to left. There are no remains of the Chapter House of the Abbey, but the lowest portion of the foundations, built of grit stone, and therefore probably belonging to the structure of Stephen. All above the foundation seems to have been removed to make room for the spacious cellars of the Lord President's resi dence, the walls of which evidently contain many of the finely-sculptured stones that adorned this once magnificent apartment. The approach to the Chapter House from the quadrangle was through a beautiful vestibule, sup ported by two rows of pillars. A range of four arches formed the entrance to the vestibule and the ad joining passage from the cloister. There is nothing equal or similar to this grand vestibule to be traced in any of the great Abbeys, excepting, perhaps, KirkstaU. The preservation of so much of this part of the Monastery, and of the whole range of apartments south of the transept, is owing to the archi tects of the Lord President's Palace having chosen this to be the site of the front of that building, and to their having also taken the level of the transept for that of their ground floor. All below that level they left standing, filling the space not occupied by the foundation waUs of the Palace with the frag ments of the Abbey, Amongst the numerous apartments discovered is the refectory, eighty-two feet long and thirty-seven wide, corresponding in its dimensions with the magnitude of the establishment. It was longitudinally divided into three parts by two rows of octangular pillars, five in each row. Adjoining the refactory was an apartment, which, if the finely-worked bosses or ceiling knots found buried in it had originally adorned its roof, as they most probably did, must have possessed exquisite beauty. This room was 503 ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OP YOEK. divided longitudinally and transversely into three equal parts by elegant moulded pillars, resting on a cluster of regular octangular bases, from which, without capitals, sprang ribs for the support of the vaulting. It had a large ornamented fireplace, backed with tiles, finished in front with grit stone, and guarded by a stone fender. The foundation of the front of the Lord President's Palace passed through this room between the fire-place and the nearest row of piUars, and to this circumstance we owe the preservation of the fire-place, which is still standing, as we have already observed, in one of the lower apartmentsof the Museum. This latter apartment is supposed to have been the parlour, or perhaps the " common house," which is described " as having a fire constantly by day in winter for the use of the monks, who were allowed no other fire."* It was furnished with a stone seat on every side. Two other apartments, one seventy-five feet long and thirty feet wide, divided transversely into six parts by five octagonal piers ; and the other divided transversely into three parts by octagonal piers, without capitals, from which the vaulting sprang ; are supposed to have been the guest room, or the refectory of the novices ; and the library, or the scriptorium,f or both. Portions of the site of the Abbot's residence are still remaining in the buildings on the same site selected by James I. for a royal Palace, and now occupied by the Wilberforce School for the Blind. At the lower end of the Abbey close — towards the river — stands a large building which is now called the Hospitium of the Abbey, " There is no documentary or traditionary evidence respecting either the age of the building • See Fosbrooke's British Monachison, p, 69, + The Scriptorium was the apartment for transcribing books, especiaUy the Bible, in the monastic cloister. In the early and middle ages of Christianity the pen was the engine for doing the work of our machinery ; and that the labour of the monks in transcribing and Uluminating was prodigious, is amply attested by tbe Ust of works they produced, " Books were then so beautifuUy painted and embeUished with emblems and miniatures,'' says Gerbert, "that the whole seemed to be the produce not of human but of angeUc hands," In the Scriptorium the toUing monk — ^tbat pioneer of bibUcal litera ture — ^plied his weary task — tracing letter after letter on the page of vellum- — ^for many a year before one single copy of the Bible was produced, Leomine, in his Typographical Antiquities quoted by Home, says, " Fifty years were sometimes employed to produce a single volume, an evidence of which occurred at the sale of the late Sir William Burrel's books, in 1796, Among these was a MS, Bible, beautifuUy written on vellum and illu minated, which had taken the writer half a century to execute. The writer. Guide de Jars, began it in his fortieth year, and did not finish it tUl he had accomplished his ninetieth, a.d. 1394, in the reign of PhUip the Fau-, as appeared by the writers' own autograph in the front of the book." ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YOEK. 503 or of the uses to which it was applied," says Mr. WeUbeloved, in the little work already referred to. " It did not come within the Umits of the portion of the Abbey close, granted by the Crown to the Yorkshire Philosophical So ciety ; " continues that gentleman, " and being at that time partly occupied by two or three families, and partly by staUs for their horses and cattle, the internal character of the building could not possibly be ascertained. It was then supposed that it might have been the Grange of the Abbey. But that notion was at once abandoned when, having come into the possession of the Society, it was cleared of all the nuisances by which it had been long encum bered and defiled. It was then conjectured that it had been erected for the entertainment of those strangers who were not admitted to the principal . apartments of the Monastery ; the lower room having been the refectory, and the upper, originally of the same extent, the dormitory. The position of this building, near one the entrances to the Abbey, and the corres pondence of the plan of the lower room with that of the refectory for the monks, tend to confirm that conjecture. The portion of the the lower apart ment on the left of the doorway, lighted by five narrow windows, was origi nally separated by a cross wall from the other portion, forming perhaps a store room or buttery. If this building was originally such as it now is, constructed partly of stone, and partly of timber and plaster, it must have been one of the later structures belonging to the Monastery. Yet it cannot have been the latest, for the manner in which the adjoining archway is attached to it, indicates that this was subsequently erected. And this is evidently of the same age as the building adjoining the ancient Abbey gate. This archway appears to have been the entrance into the interior of the Abbey close from the river, and may be termed the Watergate. Between it and the river were two walls, built by Abbot Thomas de Malton in 1534; the one proceeding from the tower at the end of the Abbey weJI, in Marygate, along the margin of the river, till it met the Abbey wall from near Bootham Bar; and the other paraUel to it, near the Water gate. The apartments attached to this gateway may have been the residence not only of the gate-keeper, but also of those whose duty it was to attend to the strangers who were received into the Hos pitium." This building now contains a fine collection of Egyptian, Eoman, Saxon, and Mediaeval antiquities — being part of the Yorkshire Museum. In leveUing the ground of the south aisle of the nave of the Abbey Church the workmen discovered, at the depth of eight feet, seven statues, lying with the faces downward ; four of them were nearly perfect, but the three others were much mutilated. All of them had been painted and gilded, but tbe 504 ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OP YOEK. colours rapidly faded on being exposed to the Ught and air. The form of the drapery is different in each, but elegant in aU, though the workmanship is somewhat rude. At the back of each of these statues is part of the shaft of a piUar, about seven inches in diameter, which determines their situation in the Church to have been against the columns that supported the groinings of the roof; and since there were seven piUars in the nave, we may conclude that there were originaUy at least fourteen statues, and that the above-named seven had been placed on the side near which they were buried. It is now considered beyond doubt that the two statues, long known in York as curious reUcs of antiquity, and the figures of which may be seen in Plate viii. of Drake's Eboracum, belonged to this set, as they correspond in every impor tant respect with those found in the ruins of the Abbey. Dr. Gale supposed these two statues represented a Eoman senator and his lady, but Drake justly objects to this on account of the form of the beard. The latter writer thus aUudes to them :— " On the Churchyard waU of St. Lawrence, extra Walm gate, lie two very ancient statues prostrate ; but whether Eoman or Saxon, Pagan or Christian, since better antiquaries than myself have been puzzled, I shall not determine.'' Both AUen and WeUbeloved say that one of them is evidently a figure of St. John the Baptist, bearing his proper emblem — a lamb on his left arm ; and that it closely resembles a statue of the Baptist on the porch of the Chapel of Magdalen CoUege, Oxford, as drawn by Carter. " Supposing these two to have belonged to the Church of St. Mary's Abbey," continues the former, " it may be safely conjectured that the fourteen statues, which pro bably adorned the nave of- that Church, or at least some of them, were em blematical representations of 'the Old and New Law;' agreeable to the explanation which William of Worcester has given of some of the numerous figures that graced the western front of the Cathedral of WeUs."* If these observations be just, the statues must be coeval with the nave of the Abbey Church, which was built at the end of the thirteenth or the beginning of the fourteenth century. The seven first named statues are now deposited in the Yorkshire Museum, and the two which had long served as coping stones to the waU of the Church yard of St. Lawrence, are now to be seen fixed against the waU of that Church (the Churchyard waU having been removed), one on each side of the north doorway. Mr. WeUbeloved teUs us that one of this series of statues having long formed part of the arch of the bridge at CUfton, has recentiy been re- • Allen's Hist, of Yorks., on the authority of Carter's Specimens of Ancient Sculpture. ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YOEK. 505 moved and restored, in a sadly weatherworn state, to its follows in tho Museum, Since the venerable ruins of the Abbey came into the possession of the Philosophical Society, every means have been taken to preserve and beautify them. Several of the remains, laid bare by the extensive excavation already mentioned, are stUl exposed to view. In the entrance haU of the Yorkshire Museum is a very interesting reUc of the Abbey of St. Mary, It is the Mortar of the infirmary of the estab lishment — a beautiful specimen of Mediaeval art — of beU metalj bearing the following inscription in Old English characters. On the upper rim : (- Mortariu. Sd. Joins. Ewangel. De. Infermaria. Bg. Marie. Ebor. The lower: \-Fr. Wills. De. Touthorp. Me. Fecit. A.D. MCCCVUL For nearly two centuries after the dissolution of the Abbey, nothing is known of this ancient mortar. The earliest notice we have of it occurs in an anonymous letter to Gent, published by him in his History of Hull, and dated 1734, The writer of the letter states that after having been long in the possession of the Fairfax family, it had passed into the hands of Mr. Smith, a bell-founder in York, by whom it had been sold to a Mr, Addington, whose son, Joseph Addington, confectioner, in the Minster Yard, had pos session of it at the date of the letter, Gough, in his edition of Camden's Britannia, published in 1789, says, " It was lately in the hands of an apo thecary at Selby, after whose death all traces of it were lost.'' In 1811, Mr. Eudder, a bell-founder at Birmingham, discovered it in his metal warehouse amidst a large quantity of old metal which he had purchased, and unwilling to commit so interesting and beautiful a relic to the furnace, he put it aside year after year, and at length removed it to his private residence ; and finally presented it to his antiquarian friend Mr. Blount, an eminent surgeon in Birmingham. After his death it was sold by auction, in the year 1836, with the rest of his collection, and purchased at a considerable price by Mr, Samuel Kenrick, of West Bromwich, for the generous and laudable purpose of re storing it to its proper place among the remains of the religious estabUsh ment to which it originally belonged. The waU which surrounded the Abbey Close, and which is supposed to have been built by Abbot Simon, enclosed about fifteen acres. A great part of this wall StUl remains behind the houses on the south side of Bootham, and in Marygate. Besides the close, properly so called, the Abbey possessed a spacious piece of rich ground to the north of Marygate, running down to the river, which was caUed Almry, or Almonry-garth. The Abbey had two 3 T 506 ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YOEK. principal gates (besides the one which Mr. WeUbeloved caUs the Watergate), one to the east, opening into Bootham, near Bootham Bar (the present en trance to the Manor, or School for the Blind) ; and the second, or principal entrance, opening into Marygate, and now forming the entrance to the Mu seum Gardens from that street. The remains of the latter entrance consist of a fine old arch and arcade of the Norman period, having attached to them a part of the gate-house, the residence of the porter, which is evidently of a later date;- the portion above the archway and on the other side of it being destroyed. The lower story of the part of the gate-house stiU standing ap pears to have been the prison of the Abbey, in which debtors to the Abbot, in the extensive Liberties of St. Mary, and perhaps others subject to his power, were confined. The upper part, Mr. WeUbeloved says, was probably the room in which the Abbot held his courts ; but Mr. Hargrove states that the court of the said liberties was held by the Steward of the Abbot in a large room over the gateway, which was ascended by a flight of stone steps, and the floor of which was neatly executed in chequered marble.* The present building, and that which-corresponded to it on the other side of the gateway, is supposed to have been added to the ancient gate in the latter half of the fifteenth century. This part of the gate-house, after being for several years a public-house, was restored about twenty years ago, and has since been the residence of Professor Phillips. The style of the exterior of the old buUding was studiously preserved. Tradition has placed upon the site of St. Mary's Abbey the Pagain Temple of BeUona. Near Earsley Bridge, on the Foss, formerly stood the miUs of the Abbot of St. Mary's Abbey, but they have long since disappeared. Peioey of the Holy Teinity, Micklegate. — There was a reUgious estab lishment or a Church here endowed for Canons in very early times. It is twice mentioned in the Domesday Survey, where, in one entry, an aUusion to its privileges occurs, though these are not stated at large ; nor is there any notice of the predial rents with which it was endowed. Soon after the Conquest the house became decayed, and the Canons were brought to ruin ; and the site of the estabUshment became a part of the fee of Ealph de Paga- neU, or Paynell, one of the Conqueror's foUowers. Ealph PaganeU refounded the Monastery, and renewed the endowment, not for Canons, but for Bene dictine monks, in 1089, and gave it as a CeU to the Abbey of St, Martin Marmonstier, at Tours, in France, The endowment of the new foundation .consisted of the adjoining Church of the Holy Trinity, with three crofts ap- * Hargrove's History of York, vol, u,, page 591, ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YOEK, 507 pertaining to it ; the Church of St, Helen, in York, with the toft adjacent ; also the Churches of AU Saints, in North Street, and St, Bridget, in Mickle gate, and the Chapel of St, James, without the waUs, The founder likewise gave the mimks various Churches, including those of Leeds, Barton-in- Eyedale, Hoton-in-Bilaham, Moncton, Ardington, and Stratton, with several lands, tithes, fisheries, &c. The temporalities of this Priory in 1393 were rated at no less than £60, 10s, 5d, per annum. In the 34th of Edward I, (1305), by an inquisition taken at York, it was found that the heirs of the founder had no right in these temporalities on the death of any Prior ; and that the Abbot of Mar monstier had the sole appointment of a successor. In the 30th of Edward III, (1357), that Monarch confirmed aU the privileges and possessions of the Priory, Upon the suppression of the alien Monasteries, this Priory was suffered to remain ; and according to Cotton's abridgement, it was made denizen by consent of ParUament in the 4th of Henry VI. (1436), In con sequence of the exclusive patronage of the Abbot of Marmonstier, the Priors of this Monastery were neither admitted nor confirmed by the Archbishops of the Province ; we have therefore no regular catalogue of them, Stephen was admitted Prior in 1331 ; Oliver de Gages, Prior of this Monastery in 1307, was excommunicated by the Archbishop of the diocese; John de Che- siaco was Prior in 1857 ; and John Burn in 1458, Eichard Speyte, the last Prior, surrendered the house in the 36th of Henry VIII. (1685), when the amount of its revenues was £196. 17s. 3d.; the clear receipts being £169. 9s. lOd. per annum. In 1648 the site and the demesne lands were granted to Leonard Beckwith. In 1736 the property belonged to the Good rick family of Eibston. " The circuit of ground belonging to the site of this Priory," says Drake, " was of great extent, being bounded by the street on one side, a lane caUed Trinity Lane on the east, the City walls on the west, and its own waUs on the south." The site and grounds of the Priory, long occupied as garden ground, caUed Trinity Gardens, passed from the last of the Goodricks, some years since, into the hands of a gentieman who, about two years ago, sold them for a commercial speculation, and the result has been that almost every vestige of the buUdings of the estabUshment has been swept away, and thus the City lost one of the valuable monuments of the piety of our ancestors. The only portion of this once splendid Monastery that remains, is the nave of the Priory Church, which is now the Church of the parish of Holy Trinity. Even the fine old archway, formerly the portal of the Priory, which fronted into Micklegate, has been removed and, it is to be regretted, ruthlessly demoUshed. That venerable portal 50S ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OP YOEK. Stood at the junction of the new thoroughfare, called Priory Street (recently formed through Trinity Gardens, from Micklegate to BishophiU), with Mickle gate. It consisted of a beautiful spacious arch, which sprung from dwarf piers; above which was a square window of three lights, with sculptured blocks supporting the cornice. The roof terminated in a plain gable. An imperfect copy of the seal of this Priory is given by Drake, in his Ap pendix, p. ci. It is of an oval form, having in the area the first person of the Blessed Trinity, holding in front the figure of our Divine Eedeemer on the Cross, The inscription, when perfect, seems to have been Sigillu. Peio- EATYS, Sancte, Teinitatis. Eboe, Dominican Feiaey, — The Order of monks or ecclesiastics commonly called the Black or Preaching Friars — the former term derived from the colour of their dress or habit, and the latter from their office — was founded by St, Dominic, about the year 1316, and is said to have been introduced into England in 1331, The Monastery of the Order, whioh was established in York, early in the reign of Henry III,, by Bryan Stapleton, Esq., stood on part of the ground called Les Toftes, on the spot now occupied by the railway, near the end of the platforms of the North Eastern Railway Station, Previous to the excavations for the railway, the grounds of this Monastery were also called Friars Gardens, In the 33nd of Henry VIII, (1541), the site and buUding, were granted to William Blytheman, When AUen wrote, in 1839, the only remains of the institution was a curious old draw-well, situated in the gardens ; but the gardens and draw-well have since disappeared, and the whole of the site of the Monastery is swaUowed up in the Railway Sta tion, Toft Green formerly constituted part of the grounds belonging to the Dominicans, The Monasteey of the Oedee op St, Feancis, commonly called Grey Friars, or Friars Minors, was situated on the north side of the Ouse, near the Castle, Of this extensive and celebrated house, the scene of many im portant events, Drake writes as follows :—" We are informed by historians that the Monastery of the Friars Minors was usually the residence of our former EngUsh Kings, when they came to York; and that it was noble and spacious, we are assured by Froissart, who teUs us that Edward IH, and his mother both lodged in it, when the fray happened betwixt the EngUsh soldiers and strangers," (See page 140,) We find by this historian that the buildings of the Monastery were so convenient, that each of these royal guests, though attended with a numerous suite of quality, kept court apart in them ; ^^hich must argue it a structure of very great extent and magnificence. By a patent of Eichard II., the fact of ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OP YOEK. 509 . its being made use of as a regal Palace is confirmed. That King strictly prohibited any person from carrying of filth, or laying of dunghills, &c., iu the lanes or passages leading to the Monastery ; where, as the patent expresses, he himself, as well as his grandfather, used to inhabit. Also butchers and other persons are by the same order prohibited from casting into, or washing in the river Ouse any entrails of beasts, or any other nasti- nesses, to the prejudice or nuisance of the Monastery. This establishment was founded in the time of Henry IIL, as it is said by the King himself, and Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, was one of its greatest benefactors. It had a conventual Church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, and the Order of Friars Minors is said to have been divided into seven cus todies or wardships, of which this establishment was a principal one. Hence" it had under its jurisdiction the Friaries of Beverley, Doncaster, and Scar borough ; also Boston, Grimsby, and Lincoln. The last Warden, William Vavasour, with fifteen friars and five novices, surrendered this house in the 30th of Henry VIH. ; and four years afterwards the site was granted to Leonard Beckwith. A part of the outer walls of this Monastery are standing at the present day on the north side of the Ouse, a little beyond the King's staith or wharf, and one of its boundary walls may be traced from towards the river, through the premises and into the house now in the occupation of Mr. George Hope, Bookseller, Castiegate. Those on the bank of the Ouse are still called Friars Walls, and that part of the site whioh they enclose, and which is not occu pied by buildings, is called Friars Gardens. Several lots of this garden land have recently been built upon. In front of the waUs on tho river bank are the evident remains of a staith originally belonging to the Monastery. The Austin Feiaes, or Friars Hermits of the Order qf St. Augustine, are supposed to have settled in York as early as 1378, and their Convent is said to have been founded by Lord Scrope. Leland mentions that the Augustine Friary was situated on the banks of the Ouse near Ouse Bridge, so that it seems clear there were two monastic establishments on the north side of the river, " In one of the testamentary burials of Mr, Torre," says Drake, " Joan Trollop, anno 1441, leaves her body to be buried in the conventual Church of the Friars Eremite of St. Augustine in York. The term of Eremites to this Order is what I have not before met with; the Friars Minors were styled Earmitse, i. e. Eremi in colse. The Eremites, or Hermits in the north, were corruptly called Cremitts, and there is an annual rent paid out of some houses in Stonegate, called Cremitt money, at this day, which undoubtedly belonged to a reUgious house of these Orders ; for some of the poorer sort of 510 ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YOEK. monks being called hermits, an hermitage and an hospital had one and the same signification." The Augustinians were originally hermits, whom Pope Alexander IV. first congregated into one body under General Lanfranc in 1356. They observed the rule of St. Augustine, the great doctor of the Church, and were clothed in black. Eobert Davies, Esq., F.S.A., deUvered an interesting lecture at the York Institute, in the month of December, 1854, entitled " An Antiquarian Walk through some of the streets of York ; " and in reference to the old timber house of the Elizabethan period, next to the Post Office, in Lendal, he stated that he had lately discovered that this house stood on the site of the house of the Augustine Friars. "Leland in the reign of Henry VHI.," continued the learned lecturer,* " stated that each of the four ReUgious Orders caUed Mendicant Friars — the Carmelite, the Franciscan, the Dominican, and the Augustine — had reUgious houses in York, and describes the establishment of the latter as lying between ' Ouse Bridge and the Tower.' Drake, sup posing that the tower here mentioned was Clifford's Tower, fixed the abode of the Augustine Friars between the Friars' Walls and Castiegate Postern. He (Mr. Davies), however, was of opinion that that was the house of the Franciscans, and that the tower of which Leland spoke was the tower of Lendal Ferry. They must therefore look for the Augustine Friars in that direction, and a document he had lately seen, placed the house and Church of the Augustines in Conyng Street, precisely on the spot laid down by Le land. Mr. Davies read some extracts from the document to which he referred, from which it appeared the Augustine Friars purchased a strip of land in Conyng Street in 1893, and gave permission to the Mayor to place the but tresses of the Guild-HaU on their property, and to allow the common gutter to run along the west side of that hall. Although the Augustine Friars were known as mendicants and eremites, or hermits, yet they were not debarred from exercising hospitality, for in 1483, when Richard Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Eichard IIL, visited York, they found the Friars of Augustine presenting him with several gaUons of wine of various kinds, and other good things." Thus it appears that the Augustinian Friary stood between Lendal Tower and the Guild-HaU. The Feiaes of the Oedee of Mount Caemel, commonly called Carme lites or White Friars, had a powerful monastic estabUshment at York, which was of such extent as to occupy nearly aU the ground, from Stainbow, or Stonebow Lane to the river Foss. A portion of the Friary waU stUl re- • As reported in the York Herald newspaper. ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OP YOEK. 611 mains at the east end of Stonebow Lane. The Order of the Friars Car melites was, as has been observed, one of the four Orders of mendicants or begging Friars. It took both its name and origin from Carmel, a mountain in Syria, formerly inhabited by the prophets Elijah and Elisha, and by the children of the prophets ; and from them these monks profess to derive their origin, in an uninterrupted succession. "The site of their Monastery in York," writes Drake, "is particularly expressed in a charter of confirmation, granted to them by King Edward I., anno 1800, dated at York, It appears here, by inspeximus, that William de Vescy gave them the first piece of ground to build on, and bestowed upon them aU his land, messuages, and tenements, that he had in a street or lane caUed le Stainbogh," From the same authority we learn, that, in the reign of Edward H,, (1314), that King, then at York, bestowed a messuage and yards, upon the Prior and brethren of this Order, situate in the street of Mersks (a name no longer known at York), which he had of the gift of Galfred de Saint Quintin, contiguous to their house, for the enlargement of it ; that the same King, by another grant dated a few days after the former, gave permission to these Friars to build a quay or wharf on his vivary of the Foss, in their own land and within their close, and to have a boat on his said vivary to fetch stone, wood, or other necessaries, as weU under Foss Fridge as from any other place on the said vivary, or fish pool, to their quay ; that the same King soon after granted to these Friars, by two deeds dated at York and Lincoln, aU those houses with their appurtenances in Fossgate, which he had of the gift of Thomas the son of WiUiam le Aquiler, of York, and CicUy his wife ; also aU that land with appurtenances in the same City, which he had by gift from Abel de Richale, of York, for the enlargement of their Monastery ; and that in the reign of Richard IL, Henry de Percy, Lord of Spofford, granted to these Friars a piece of ground to the west, contiguous to their house, for the enlargement of their Monastery, On the 37th of November, 1539, the last prior, S, Clarkson, nine brothers, and three novices, sur rendered up their house into the King's hands ; and in 1544 the site was granted to one Ambrose Beckwith, The principal entrance to the Priory was in Fossgate, near its junction with Pavement, and at a very early period divine service was celebrated in an Oratory on the gateway.* The Convent, which was styled the Prior and * The gate house often contained a Chapel, or had a Chapel annexed to it, in whioh early Mass was celebrated for the benefit of the labourers and servants connected with the Monastery. At Chertsey this Chapel was described as " Capella super portam." Over the gateway at Barking was a Chapel of the Holy Eood; and at Furness Abbey a Chapel adjoined the principal gatehouse, but it did not actuaUy form part of the gatehouse. 513 ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YOEK. Brethren of the Order St. Mary de Monte Carmeli, had also a Church dedi cated in honour " of our Lady St. Mary." About fifty years ago Mr. Rusby purchased a part of the site of this religious house, then occupied as a garden, and erected several buildings thereon. In digging up an old foundation about that time his workmen came to an ancient arch, in which were two distinct and separate parts of a tombstone ; and in another place they found a flag gravestone, with the representation of a crozier at each corner. The former he carefully joined, and placed as a flag in front of his house in Hungate,* and it may be still seen before the same house, which was lately in the occupation of Mr. Joseph Matthews. Near the edge is a Latin inscription, now nearly effaced, which may thus be translated : — " Pray for Sir Simon de Wintringham, a priest, formerly Vicar of St. Martin the Great, London, to whose soul may God be merciful." The middle of the stone is curiously carved, the letters of the inscription are of the Old Anglo-Saxon character, and it is remarkable that there is not any date.f The Priory of the Fratres de Monte Carmeli, in York, is not noticed in the Monasticon, or in Speed's Catalogue of the Eeligious Houses. "An ancient record in Mr. Hargrove's possession," writes Allen, " states that ' a Maison Dieu was founded in White Friars' Lane, Layerthorpe, temp. Edward IV. ; ' whence it is natural to infer that there must anciently have been a Monastery of White Friars also, from which the name has arisen; but on this subject we can only conjecture, as there are no remains of either building, and even the name itself is now no longer retained." Ceouched oe Ceutched Feiaes. — Bishop Tanner, in his Notitia Monas- tica, states that there was a Monastery of this Order at York, though he has not attempted to describe its situation. They began to settle in ihis City in the beginning of the reign of Edward II., but were discountenanced by the Archbishop. In the 31st of Edward III. (1338), Thomas, Lord Wake, gave them one toft and ten acres of land on the moor of Blakeshame, in Famdale, for building an Oratory and an habitation. The site of the Monastery of Crouched Friars at York is assigned by tradition to the comer of Barker Hill, facing Monkgate; and from this institution the latter street is sup posed to derive its name. Mr. WeUbeloved says that it is probable that the house of these Friars stood near Monk Bar, as there are indications of some ancient buildings having been' there. * Hargrove's York, vol. U., p. 336. t This stone is engraved in Gent. Mag., 1797, pt. U., p. 931. Sir Simon de Wintring ham died in 1420. He was a Canon of Lincoln, Prebendary of Ledyngton, and Provost of the Chantry of Cotterstock, Northamptonshire. ancient eeligious houses of YOEK. 513 At Clementhorpe was a Benedictine Nunnery dedicated to St. Clement, to which the parish Church of that village was attached. In the year 1145, Thurstan, Archbishop of York, granted " to God, St. Clement, and to the nuns there serving God, in pure and perpetual alms, the place wherein this Monastery, with other buildings of the said nuns, was erected ; together with tv?o carucates of land in the suburbs of York, twenty shillings annual rent, issuing out of his fair in York, &c., which was confirmed by the Dean and Chapter." In 1384, Nicholas, son of Adam Poteman, of Clementhorpe, granted to Agnes, the Prioress, and the nuns of St. Clement's, two mes suages in Clementhorpe, with a toft, a croft, and half an acre of land. These and several other grants to the nuns were confirmed by King Edward HI. at York, in 1337. In 1193, Geoffrey Plantagenet, Archbishop of York, gave this Convent, contrary to the wish of the nuns, to the Nunnery of Godstow ; and Alicia, then Prioress, refusing to obey the order, went to Eome to appeal to the Pope. Notwithstanding this appeal, the Archbishop excommunicated the whole sisterhood. At the dissolution, Isabella Ward, the last Prioress, surrendered this Nunnery to Henry VHL, and had a pension allowed her of £6. 18s. 4d. per annum. The Church, however, continued parochial till 1585, when, along with the parish of Middlethorpe, it was united to St. Mary's, Bishop hiU the Elder. St. Andeew's Peioey stood in a field now termed Stone WaU Close, be tween Blue-bridge Lane and the Glass Works. It was founded in 1303 by Hugh Murdac, Archbishop of York, who " granted to God and to the twelve Canons of the Order of Sempringham, or St. Gilbert, serving God at St. Andrews, in Fishergate, Ebor. the Church of the same place with lands adja cent." This Priory had also several other lands, rents, &c., granted to it at various times. On the 38th of November, 1588, it was surrendered by the Prior and three monks, at which time its annual income, according to Dug dale, was £47. 14s. 8d.; but Speed states it at £57. 5s. 9d. The site was granted in 1545 to John Bellow and John Broxholme. Leland teUs us that this Priory stood exactly opposite the Nunnery of St. Clement ; and hence a tradition long existed amongst the ignorant that there was a subterraneous passage from one to the other, though the river Ouse runs between them. There are no remains now visible of St. Andrew's Priory, except some smaU portions of the Priory waUs, which may still be seen in Blue-bridge Lane. HOSPITALS. In former times Hospitals, or, as they were commonly caUed Spittals, especiaUy Hospitals for Lepers, were usually erected outside the town. The virulent disease caUed the leprosy was introduced into 3 u 514 ANCIENT eeligious HOUSES OP YOEK. England in the reign of Henry I., and was supposed to have been imported from Palestine by the pilgrimage made thither, or from Syria and Egypt by the Crusaders. In addition to its horrors, the leprosy was contagious, and the inected were shunned and cut off from society. Deeply impressed with the misery of such pitiable objects, charitable individuals founded and en dowed asylums, which served the two-fold purposes of giving every comfort to the afflicted, and securing others from so loathsome a distemper. Hos pitals were generaUy intended as places of entertainment for poor pilgrims who could not afford to pay for their lodgings in the town. AU the Hospitals observed the rule of St. Austin, or Augustine. For St. Leonard's Hospital, see page 487 of this volume. The Hospital of St. Nicholas stood in Watlingate, now Lawrence Street, without Walmgate Bar, near Plantation House and the Tan Yard, behind the Church of St. Nicholas ; and in ancient writings the Church and it are classed together as one reUgious house, and termed the Priory of St. Nicholas. This Hospital, which was for a select number of both sexes, was of royal foundation, and established under the patronage of the Kings of England. According to the Monasticon, William de Grenfield, Lord High Chancellor of England, in a royal visitation, July 4th, 1303, ordained certain statutes for its government. In the 3rd of Edward I; (1376), a carucate of land was granted them by the Empress Maud, upon condition that the brethren of the said Priory or Hospital should find aU lepers, who might visit them on the vigils of the Apostles St. Peter and St. Paul, with a certain portion of food. At the dissolution the Priory was valued at £39, Is, 4d, The Church remained parochial tiU the siege of York in 1644, when it feU a sacrifice to the ravages of war. The Hospital of St. Mary Magdalen — commonly caUed the " Hospital of St. Mary in Bootham" — was founded in that part of the City called Le Horse ayre— B.(tevwa.rAs denominated the Horse Fair— (the district extending north of Bootham) in 1330, by Eobert de Pykering, Dean of York, and confirmed by Archbishop WUUam de Melton, under the foUowing regulations :—" That there bo therein one perpetual Chaplain for the Master, whose presentation shaU belong to the said Eobert de Pykering, for his life, and to his heirs after his decease. That the said master and his successors being assisted with two more Chaplains, shaU daUy celebrate divine service therein, for the souls of Walter, late Archbishop, the said Eobert de Pykering, and WiUiam his brother ; and shaU competently sustain those two Chaplains with victua,ls and clothing, and pay to each twenty shillings per annum ; and also sustain with meat, drink, and clothing, other six old lame priests, not able to minis ter, allowing to every one twelve pence a week." ancient eeligious HOUSES OF YOEK. 516 At the same time the Church of StiUingfleet was appropriated for the sup port of the Chaplain, the Master, and the Charity for ever. There was, how ever, a sum reserved for the Vicar of the Church, who was to be appointed by the Master and brethren of the Hospital. At the dissolution, this Hospital, which was valued at £37. per annum in the gross, and at £11. 6s. 8d. clear, was annexed to the Dean and Chapter of York. In 1567 that body granted unto Thomas Luither, a priest, and a brother of the dissolved Hospital, an annual payment of £4. 13s. 4d., on condition that he should resign aU claim to the said institution. By a grant from PhUip and Mary, the King and Queen of England, the lands of the Hospital were devoted to the estabUsh ment and maintenance of a free grammar school ; and agreeably to the tenor of that royal ordinance, the Deto and Chapter founded the one which was formerly held in the desecrated Church of St. Andrew, afterwards in the buUding now used as a School of Art, but finaUy removed to the edifice now known as St. Peter's School, Bootham. Besides the great Hospital of Bootham, here was another dedicated to St. Mary, and founded by John Gyseburgh, precentor of York, for two Chaplains, before the year 1481. This was valued, at its suppression in 1685, at £9. 6s. 8d. per annum. The Spittal, or Hospital Of St. Anthony, anciently stood at the end of GiUy- gate, next to the Horse Fair, It was founded about the year 1440, but its history is little known. In Hargrove's History of York, is an engraving of a large and very curious mutilated piece of sculpture, which was taken out of the waU of a field near the site of this old Hospital, above forty years ago. It is supposed to represent the ceremonials of a religious sacrifice or vow, there being an altar, a priest in flowing drapery, and a man leading out of a stable a large animal, looking less Uke an ox than a horse. It is of Roman origin, and of high antiquity. Dr. Tanner, in his Notitia Monastica, says that a Hospital stood "in Markgate, in suburb Ebor ; " but of which we have not found any further particulars ; and there was a Hospital at an early period within Layerthorpe Postern, which was founded by Sir Francis Bigod, who had a fine mansion at the same place. There are now no remains of the house or Hospital. Mr. WeUbeloved thinks the site of Bigod's Hospital is clearly indicated by the stone waU opposite to the Church of St. Cuthbert. St. Anthony's Hospital is stated by Leland to have been founded for the brethren of St. Anthony by Sir John Langton, knt., who served the office of Mayor of York nine times, the last of which was in 1863. After the disso lution of the religious houses, it feU into the hands of a fraternity caUed the 516 ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OF YOEK. Gmld qf St. Anthony, consisting of a Master and eight keepers, who gave a feast every third year, probably out of the remaining revenues of the old Hospital ; but in 1635 the feast was discontinued, and the feUowship dis solved. The brethren of this mendicant Hospital of St. Anthony used to solicit alms in the City and neighbourhood, and as they were held in much esteem they were generaUy weU rewarded. For a long time it was a custom with the citizens when a sow pigged, to have one set apart and well fatted for the brethren of St. Anthony; and hence came the proverb "As fat as an Anthony pig." In later times, the fraternity that succeeded the original brotherhood was commonly denominated " Tantony pigs." The legendary story of St. Anthony, of Padua, and his pig, says Drake, is represented in one of the windows of the neighbouring Church of St. Saviour. The building occupied by the brethren of St. Anthony, and afterwards by the above-mentioned fraternity, is caUed St. Anthony's HaU, and is situated in Peaseholme Green. This ancient structure is mentioned under the same name in a beautiful manuscript terrier, in the possession of the Eev. J. Crofts, Eector of the Church of St. Saviour, as forming a boundary of the parish so early as 1363 ; and from this it may be inferred that if Sir John Langton was the founder of the Hospital, he must have founded it some years before he fiUed the civic chair of York fo'r the ninth time, viz : — in 1368, as the hall was, in the preceding year, sufficiently weU known to be mentioned as the boundary of two or three parishes. In 1646 the whole of the building was repaired and re-edified. It is a large venerable looking pile, the lower part being of stone, and the upper of brick. Each end of the hall presents three gables, with large Venetian windows at each end. The buUding is a mixture of two styles of architecture — the Pointed and pseudo- Roman — and has a very curious appearance. The entrance door faces Peas holme Green, and over it is a circular window. After the buUding was repaired in 1646, one part of it was converted to the purposes of a House of Correction for lesser criminals ; and it so continued until a buUding for that purpose was erected on Toft Green, which in its turn gave way to the prison near Baile HiU. St. Anthony's HaU is now occupied by the scholars of a charitable institution caUed the Blue Coat Boys' School. On the left of the entrance haU are the apartments of the master. A wide staircase leads to the upper story, where the different tradesmen's companies of York used to hold their general meetings. The several arms of each of them yet re main, but the rooms are now occupied by the Blue Coat boys. The other ancient Hospitals of the City of York, of which Uttle is known, are the Hospital of St. Catherine, Micklegate, near to St. Nicholas's Church, ANCIENT EELIGIOUS HOUSES OP YOEK. 517 now destroyed ; the Hospital qf St. John and Our Lady, at Foss Bridge ; the Spittal qf St. Loy, at the east end of Monk Bridge; FishergaU Spittal or Hospital, near the Church of St. Helen, now destroyed ; and three Maison Dieu's, one on the old Ouse Bridge, another near Fishergate Postern, and the third, which belonged to the shoemakers, in Walmgate. Sir Eichard de York founded an Hospital in Micklegate, but it was never finished. The Hospitals stiU standing, which have been converted into regular Almshouses, wiU be noticed at subsequent pages. For the College of St. WUliam and the Bedern see pages 483 and 484. Guilds. — Torre mentions that a (^ild or fraternity of St. Mary and St. Martin the Confessor was established on Peaseholme Green, in the parish of St. Cuthbert; and says that the brethren and sisters were authorized to cause divine service to be celebrated in the parish Church by one Chaplain, submissa voce. On the 38th of January, 1453, a Commission was issued to John, Bishop of Philippi, to consecrate the Chapel of the said fraternity, and the principal altar of the same erected within the Church of St, Cuthbert, In the yard of the George Inn, Coney Street, may be traced the remains of strong stone walls, which tradition informs us were part of the religious house of the ancient Guild of St. George, in York, This fraternity was after wards united to the Guild of St, Christopher, St, George's Close, adjoining the entrance to the New Walk, is the site of a religious house caUed St. George's Chapel. Here was anciently a Guild or fraternity established, termed Tlie Fellowship qf St. George, which was suppressed at the general dissolution. Until the last year (1856) a smaU arched stone doorway faced the high road, which was surmounted with a shield charged with the cross of St, George, This doorway and other buildings adjoining it were removed, for the purpose of forming the new landing place called St. George's Wharf. There was an ancient fraternity, called the Guild of Corpus Christi, in connexion with the Hospital of St, Thomas, the particulars of which will be found in an account of that institution at a subsequent page. The Guild qf St. Christopher possessed the site now occupied by the Guild HaU and Mansion House, The Chapel of the Guild stood next the street, and was not pulled down until the present Mansion House was commenced in 1735, In 1683 it was occupied by Henry Giles, an eminent artist, who painted the great west window of the Minster, and another in University College, Oxford, in 1687, It afterwards became the Cross Keys Inn, and is now, as has been stated, supei^seded by the Mansion House, 518 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK, Peevious to the Reformation, when the population of York and its suburbs could not be more than 30,000, there were as many more places of worship there as at present exists, with its population of 40,000. ' At that time ac cording to Drake, there were forty-two parish Churches, three or four famous Monasteries, two Priories, a Nunnery, and a reUgious College, besides seven teen private Chapels, and eighteen Hospitals, " aU of which had reigned in plenty and abundance for several ages." These together make a total of seventy-five religious edifices. "Everybody must aUow," says the same writer, " that this City was as remarkable for Churches and houses of re ligion as most in the Kingdom." Eighteen parish Churches, all the Chapels (with one exception) and religious houses have been destroyed, so that only twenty-three Churches and one Chapel now remain ; besides two Churches recently erected. The sudden suppression of the religious houses caused a terrible re-action throughout the Kingdom, and perhaps the change was felt as severely in York as in any other part of England. Soon after the begin ning of the Reformation several of the Churches of York were deemed super fluous, and an Act was accordingly granted in the first year of the reign of Edward VI. (1547) for pulling them down, and uniting the parishes to which they belonged to other parishes in the City. The preamble of the Act recites that " Whereas in the City of York and suburbs thereof, are many parish Churches which heretofore the same being weU inhabited and replenished with people, were good and honest livings for learned incumbents, by reason of the privy tithes of the rich merchants, and of the offerings of a great mul titude, which livings be now so much decayed by the ruin and decay of the said City, and of the trade and merchandize there, that the revenues and profits of divers of the said benefices are at this present not above the clear yearly value of £1. 6s. 8d. In pursuance of this Act, several of the Churches were puUed down, but it was not put in fuU force tiU the 38th year of Elizabeth (1585), when-the parishes were united in their present order. The foUowing table shows the number of parishes in the City, together with the value of each Uving in the King's Books,* as weU as the present * In the 36th of Henry VHL (1535) an Act was passed confening on the Crown the first fruits of aU benefices, and also one yearly rent or pension amounting to the value of the tenth part of the proflt of every benefice. Pursuant to this Act, Commissioners were appointed, and the celebrated Valor Ecclesiasticus, or Liber Regis, (King's Books), is the return made by them on the matters mentioned in the statute. ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OP TOEK. 519 net value. For the population of the respective parishes see a subse quent page. PAEISHES. Livings. Value in the King's Books. Present Net Income united united ¦ united AU Saints, North Street Ml Saints, Pavement, with .... 1 j ^ j St. Peter the Little J ] St. Crux St Cuthbert with St, Helen on the Walls and , . AU Saints in Peaseholme , , , . St, Dennis in Walmgate, with St, George and Naburn St, Olave, with St,GUes , St, Helen, St, Helen's Square St. John, Micklegate iJ:Sr::*'.::::::::::::H^^ St. Margaret, Walmgate, with . . 1 „ - -to j St. Peter le Willows , J ""™" St. Martin, Coney Street St. Martin, Micklegate, with \ -, , Sfc. Gregory |umtea St, Mary, BishophUl Senior St, Mary, BishophUl Junior, -with) Upper Poppleton, and I united Copmanthorpe j St, Mary, Castiegate St. Miohael-le-Belfrey irith ] „.t„, f St. WUfrid : |united| St. Michael, Spurriergate St. Sampson St. Saviour, with 1 „-i.^, f StAndrew |- united | Holy Trinity, King's Sq., or Christ Church Holy Trinity, Micklegate Holy Trinity, Goodramgate, with' St. John del Pyke, and St, Maurice, without Monk Bar , . New District Churches ; — St, Paul, Holdgate Eoad St, Thomas', Lowther Street, Groves Discharged Eectory , . Do., do I Disch. Vicarage . , J Discharged Eectory, , Do, do. Do,Do, Do. Do. do. do. do. do. Perpetual Curacy. . . Discharged Vicarage Perpetual Curacy. . . Discharged Vicarage Discharged Eectory I Do. do. Do. do. Do. do. Do. do. Do, do. united ¦ Discharged Vicarage Perpetual Curacy. . . , Chapel of Ease Discharged Eectory . Perpetual Curacy Discharged Eectory . Do. do. Perpetual Curacy. . . Discharged Eectory. . Discharged Vicarage Do. do. Do. do. Do. do. Do. do. Perpetual Curacy. . . , Do. do. £. s. d. 4 7 11 5 16 lOJ 0 16 6 5 10 10 4 0 10 4 5 5 5 10 0"! 4 9 9i 4 0 0 5 16 3 5 0 10 10 0 0 2 8 6 2 0 10 8 12 1' 5 6 8 8 0 0 12 4 £ 107 100 94 203 150 138103209 83 124 97 243 236 144 120 150 91 109 173 87 138 We now proceed to describe the Churches of York in the order in which they are laid down in the foregoing table. The ages of the ancient edifices are unknown, but the majority appear to have been built between the twelfth and sixteen centuries. 630 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. All Saint's Chuech, North Street. — This is an ancient Discharged Eec tory, formerly belonging to the Priory of Holy Trinity, Micklegate, to whioh it was given by Ealph de Paganel, and the grant was confirmed by WiUiam the Conqueror, and by the bull of Pope Alexander II. There were formerly many Chantries and obits in this Church, several original grants of which are still preserved among the records of the City. The benefice is now in the patronage of the Crown, and incumbency of the Eev. Eobert Whytehead. The Ediflce consists of three spacious aisles, with a tower and spire in cluded in the plan at the west end. The tower contains three boUs, and the height of the spire is 130 feet. Parts of the Church and the south doorway are Early EngUsh, some of the windows are Decorated, and the roofs and spire, and most of the windows, are Perpendicular. The waUs are in a great measure composed of grit, Eoman bricks, and pebbles. In the west end of the Church are three pointed arched windows of three Ughts each. The tower, which appears to be of an earlier date than the body of the Church, is of three stories, finished with a pierced battlement, and pinnacles at the angles. The buttressses of the tower end with grotesque gargoyles, and the whole is surmounted with an elegant octagonal spire. In the north side of the Church, which presents four unequal divisions, made by strong buttresses, are square headed-windows, with cinquefoil heads. The east end exhibits three windows of the latter part of the fourteen century, each of three lights. The gables of the nave and aisle rake to an apex. In the south side, which is similar to the north, there is a porch of brick, apparently of the latter part of the seventeen century. The interior is interesting ;* the nave is much narrower than the aisles, and is divided from the latter by pointed arches springing from small circular columns, with square capitals. The chancel or sanctuary is formed out of the nave. The altar piece is of oak, with pi lasters of the Ionic order, and gilt capitals. There is an old misericord and a piscina in the sanctuary. About one haK of the ceiling of the Church (that towards the east) is in panels, and is particularly interesting to the antiquary from a fine series of sculptures, with which the corbels and bosses are adorned. • Previous to the Eeformation there were no pews in parish Churches, but some open seats with backs, and the chief famUies generaUy had moveable seats, as is stUl the custom in continental Churches. The term pew was ancientiy appUed only to small places enclosed for confession, and to other inclosures. During the reign of EUzabeth and her successors, when long sermons were considered necessary, the laity began to feel the inconvenience of having no fixed sitting places ; and as architectural display and taste had now disappeared, utiUtarianism found an easy admittance. The nobility, gentry, and freeholders, appear to have erected pews at their own private expense for the use of themselves, their heirs, and assigns for ever. ecclesiastical edifices of YOEK. 631 These carvings represent angels playing on musical instruments, grotesque heads, &c. The roofs of the western half of the edifice is in plain plaster, but waggon-headed. The pulpit of carved oak is sexagonal, with a full-length figure painted on each side, and it bears the date of 1676. On the floor are several crosses flory, and in the south waU are the mutilated remains of a Eoman sepulchral monument. The font is an ancient octagonal basin. The ancient stained glass in the windows is particularly interesting. Drake says that in his time the painted glass here was in a better state of preservation than in any other Church in the City. The three windows at the east end have been repaired by Wailes of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. The one above the Communion table has in the centre Ught a representation of St. Anne teaching the Blessed Virgin to read ; and in the other Ughts St. John the Baptist and St. Christopher carrying Our Saviour. These three subjects are aU sur mounted by similar canopies. But the most interesting windows in the Church are the two easternmost in the north aisle. The subjects of one of them are the corporal works of mercy — ^feeding and giving drink to the hungry and thirsty, clothing the naked, visiting the sick, &c. ; and the other window, whioh is very curious indeed, though much mutilated, seems to de scribe the fifteen days of the Last Judgment, as Venerable Bede has written of them. 1.— The first subject is the extraordinary inundation of the sea. The legend is all but gone. 3. — The corresponding ebb of the sea. The legend is Ye second day ye see sail be So lawe, as all men saU yt see. 8. — The foUowing day reduces it to its original level. Ye Uj day yt saU be plain. And stand as yt was, again. 4. — The day after we have the fishes and sea monsters leaving their native element, and coming forth upon the earth ; but the lines are gone. 5. — The sea is represented on fire. Ye V day ye see sail bryn, And aU the watrys that may bin. 6. — On the sixth day the trees are on fire, and their fruit is dropping; but the legend is uninteUigible. 7. — On the seventh day a great earthquake. Ye seventh day houses mon faU, Casties and towers and Uka waU, 3 X 533 ecclesiastical edifices of yoek. 8. — On the eighth day the rocks are consumed. Ye vUj day roches and stanes. Sail bryn togeder aU at anes. 9. — The events of the ninth day are entirely effaced. 10. — On the tenth day nothing is to be seen but earth and sky; the legend is The tende day for heaven, Erthe sail be plain and even. Meaning the mountains shaU be leveUed and the valleys fiUed up. 11- — Two men and two women with a priest in an attitude of prayer. Ye xi day sail men come ont Of their graves, and wende abowte. 13. — Three sarcophagi or coffins fuU of bones coming together. Ye xij day banes dede sail, Togeder at anes ryse aU. 13. — On the thirteenth day great stars faU from heaven. The xUj day sitthe saU, Sterres and the Heaven faU. 14. — ^A tomb with a man and woman side by side on its summit, thre.e mourners bending over them, and death with his dart at the foot. The xiv day aU that Uves than, SaU die, bathe chUde, man, and woman. 15. — And then follows the final consummation of all things. The XV day this sail betyde. The world sail bryn on every side. In the tracery of this window are demons conveying the souls of the wicked to punishment, and angels carrying the faithful into Abraham's bosom.* In the early part of the past year (1866) a new organ was erected by subscription in this Church. A singular custom still prevails in this parish, on Ascension Day, com monly called Holy Thursday, the time of the annual perambulation of the boundaries. The lads of the parish provide themselves with bundles of sedge, and whUe the clerk is inscribing the boundary at the specified places, * See the Hierologm, or the Church Tourists, by Eev. J. M. Neale. Explanation of the old style of spelling. Ye means the; SaU, shall; Lawe, low; Yt, it; Bryn, bwn; Mon, must; Ilka, every; Eoches, rocks; Stanes, stones; Anes, once; Wende, walk; Banes, bones; Dede, dead; Than, th^n; Betyde, happen. ecclesiastical edifices of YOEK. 533 they strike his legs below the knee with their bundles. The place nearest the clerk, or that which gives the best chance of exercising this popular pre rogative, is eagerly contended for. All Saints Chuech, Pavement. — This Church, which is commonly caUed All Hallows, stands partly in High Ousegate, but chiefly in the Pavement. It is an ancient Discharged Eectory, and before the Conquest, according to Domesday, it belonged to the Prior and Convent of Durham. By an old grant to Fountains Abbey, the Eector of this Church is styled " Rector ec olesise omnium sanctorum in Usegata." At the Reformation it reverted to the Crown, and the Rev. George Trevor, M.A. is the present incumbent. The Fabric is handsome, and, according to Drake, its north side was almost whoUy built out of the ruins of Eboracum ; but the whole structure under went a complete restoration in 1835 ; and in 1837 the tower was rebuilt after the same design as before. The edifice is in the Perpendicular style of Go thic architecture, and is chiefly remarkable for its exquisite octagonal lantern steeple, which is a beautiful piece of architecture, and forms a very picturesque object when seen at a little distance from the City. Tradition says that when the Forest of Galtres extended northward of York as far as Easingwold, it was a nightly custom to suspend a large lamp in the centre of the steeple, as a guide to travellors on that then difficult road. In Drake's time the hook or puUey on which the lamp or lantern hung, was stUl preserved. In 1694 this Church narrowly escaped destruction by fire ; most of the buildings near it in Ousegate were burnt down, which, observes Drake, was the occasion when so many handsome houses were erected in that street. Part of the present burial ground was formerly used as a herb and fish market ; but in 1783 the Church yard was enlarged, and the chancel being much out of repair, was taken down, and the ground on which it stood was appUed to enlarge the market-place ; in consequence of which the Corporation contri buted £100. towards rebuilding the east wall. The parts of the Church are a nave and side aisles, with a square tower, in which are three beUs, at the west end; and a neat porch was added in 1855. The tower is three stories in height, and is finished with a cornice and parapet. In the west face of the lower story, between two buttresses of four gradations, is a large window of five Ughts ; the second story is blank, and the third has a depressed arched window of three Ughts in each side. Each of the eight sides of the lantern steeple has a window almost the hreadth and nearly the height of the struc ture ; at every angle is a buttress of four gradations, terminating in a gargoyle and crocketed pinnacle; and the top is finished by an open battlement and pinnacles. The whole structure has a most airy and elegant appearance. 534 ecclesiastical edifices of yoek. The west ends of the aisles have windows of three Ughts, and the roofs of both rake up to the Church with a plain coping. Each of the aisle windows are of three lights ; and in each aisle is a pointed arched doorway. In the clerestory are four square-headed windows, of three Ughts. The aisles are finished with a plain, and the nave terminates in an embattled parapet, with five crocketed pinnacles on each side. The east end of the Church is made into three divisions by buttresses ; in the centre is a pointed window of three Ughts, and in each aisle is a similar window of two Ughts. The interior is very neat; the body of the Church is divided from the aisles by five pointed arches, resting on octagonal columns. The lower story of the tower opens into the nave, shewing the western window. The pulpit, which is octagonal, is ornamented with much excellent carving and gUding ; and the sounding board bears the date of 1634. The Church was neatly repewed a few years ago, partly by subscription. At the west end are very neat staUs for the churchwardens of the united parishes. The lessons are read from a handsomely carved and gUded wooden eagle'. The organ was first erected in 1791, but it was enlarged, improved, and set in a handsome case in 1855. The new and elegant octagonal font is the gift of the Rev. Mr. Hunt, a late curate of this parish. The minister and churchwardens possess property worth about £300. a year for the maintenance -of the edifice. The monuments are not very numerous ; amongst them is a neat sarcophagus, inscribed to James Saunders, Esq., Alderman and Lord Mayor of York, 1818, who died in 1835, aged 55 years; and a neat tablet to Tate Wilkinson, Esq., original patentee, and thirty-four years manager of the Theatre Royal, York. The inscription states that he died in 1803, in his 68rd year, and that his body lies buried in the north aisle of this Church. There is a neat sarcophagus to the memory of Samuel Woodhead, who died in 1834, aged 53 ; and also tablets commemorative of Captain Thomas Prickett, WUliam Sowerby, and deceased members of the famiUes of Etty, ^Frobisher, and Wyvill. The Chuech of St. Petbe, and for the sake of distinction caUed "Eccle- :sia Petri Parvi, or St. Peter the Little, stood on the east side of Peter Lane, a littie west of High Ousegate. It was an ancient Rectory, under the pa tronage of the monks of Durham ; but having faUen a sacrifice to the des tructive events which at various times have laid waste this City, ths Church, together with the parish, was united to All HaUows in 1585. The Chuech of St. Ceux, or Holy Cross, vulgarly called Cross Church, stands at the north end of the Pavement, and was originally built in the time of Edward the Confessor. At the time of the Domesday Survey, it and two ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. 635 StaUs in the Butchery or Shambles belonged to the Earl of Morton; and the Church was afterwards given by NigeU Fossard, Lord of Doncaster, to the Abbey of St. Mary at York. It appears to have been rebuilt in 1434, as a commission, dated September 6th, in that year, was directed to WilUam, Bishop of Dromore, commanding him to consecrate the building. In 1840 this Church was greatly improved externally by the removal of projections, and the erection of iron paUsades. The living is a Discharged Rectory, and at the dissolution of religious houses, the patronage came to the Crown. The present Rector is the Rev. Joseph Crosby. There were formerly five Chan tries in this Church. The Fabric is composed of three aisles, with a tower at the south-west angle of the west end ; its general style is Perpendicular, the piUars, however, are Decorated, and the tower is Italian. The latter ap pendage contains two beUs, and is an elegant brick structure, with stone dressings, the foundation stone of which was laid on the 1st of April, 1697. The lower part is of stone ; in the two upper stories are Venetian windows, and at the angles are square buttresses, -with Tuscan capitals. At the top are vases at the angles, and the whole is encompassed with a neat raUing, within which is a hemispherical dome, finished with a cross and weathercock. This tower, which is ninety feet high, declines considerably from the per pendicular towards the west, which gives it an awkward appearance. The west end of the Church, which does not range with the tower from a tortuosity in the street, is of brick, and has a large Venetian window, with stone dres sings. The south side of the Church, bounding the Pavement, is made into six divisions by buttresses, containing a pointed doorway, and five large pointed windows of three lights, with cinquefoil heads and Perpendicular tracery. The clerestory of the nave and chancel, which rises above the aisles, has six depressed arched-headed windows of four lights. The east end of the Church, abutting on Fossgate, is made into three divisions by buttresses. In the centre is a large window of six lights, with a transom ; and on each side is one of three lights. The north side is similar to the south, except that it is only in four divi sions. The interior is spacious and elegant. The nave and chancel, which are united, are divided from the aisles by seven arches, vanishing into square piers, the mouldings or hollows of the arches being continued to the bases, which are octagonal ; and each arch has an outer moulding, which rests on corbals, representing heads of men and women. The clerestory is plain, and the roofs of the nave and aisles are flat, and panelled with bosses at the intersections. The altar piece is of oak, with Corinthian pilasters. Tbe pulpit and sounding board are octagonal, as is also the font, which is very 536 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. large. The monuments in the Church are numerous. Sir Thomas Herbert, the celebrated traveUer, is buried here ; also the body of the Earl of Northum berland, who was beheaded in 1573. (See page 303.) On the south side of the communion table is an altar tomb, with a large recess behind, over the graves of Sir Robert Watter, Knt., Alderman, thrice Lord Mayor of this City, founder of the Hospital for poor women, in St. George Street, and a benefactor to this Church, who died in 1613 ; and of his wife Margaret, who died in 1608. The interior of the recess is filled with fancy work, with statues of Faith and Prudence, and in the centre is an inscription. On the table be neath lie fuU length effigies of the Knight, dressed in a scarlet robe, red cap, and ruff, and his lady in a fuU gown, and ruff. Near this monument is an ancient lectern, enriched with niches, &c., and chained to it is a book entitled, "A replie vnto M. Hardinge's ansvveare, Imprinted at London, in Fleete streate, Henry Wykes, 1666." Beneath is written 1683, which is supposed to be the date of purchasing it. In the north aisle is a handsome sarco phagus, with a medaUion bust of the deceased, to Sir Tancred Robinson, twice Lord Mayor of York, who died in 1754, aged 68 ; and in the south aisle is a neat sarcophagus to T. Bowes, apothecary, who served the office of Lord Mayor in 1761, and died in 1777, in his second mayoralty. Here is also a neat pyramidal tablet, with a basso reUevo profile, to H. Waite, Esq., who died in 1780. On the south side of the Church formerly was part of the parish burying ground, extending to a row of houses the whole length of the Church, and forming a very narrow lane caUed Hosier Lane. In 1771 the Corporation purchased one side of this lane to improve the street. The houses were accordingly taken down, the ceUars fiUed up, and the ground on which they stood, together with the Church yard on that side, was flagged and added to the street. This broad causeway was long used as a poultry market, and known by the name of Goose Flags. The burying ground on the north side was paroeUed out to those who had houses adjoining, and a sum of money was raised by that means, with which the parishioners pur chased a piece of ground in Hungate, as a place of interment. There was formeriy another narrow lane at the east end of this Church, called Whip mawhopmagate. (See page 363.) St. Cuthbbet's Chuech, Peaseholme Green. — ^An ancient Discharged Rec tory, it being a parish Church under the patronage of WiUiam de Percy at the time of the Conquest. It afterwards belonged to the Prior and Convent of the Holy Trinity in this City ; and at the Dissolution the patronage became vested in the Crown. In 1585 it had the parish Churches of St. Helen-on- the- WaUs; St. Mary extra Layerthorpe; and AU Saints on Peaseholme ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. 637 Green united to it. The present Eector is the Eev. Thomas Henry York, for whom the Rev. H. Newton officiates. The site of this Church is par ticularly remarkable for the discovery of Eoman antiquities. (See page 393.) The Structure of the Church, whioh is neat, and has a much fresher appear ance, than most of the Churches in York, is in the later Perpendicular style, and consists of a body without aisles, and a well-proportioned square tower of three stories, at the west end. The latter appendage contains two bells, and is finished with gargoyles and battlements. The south side of the Church is made into flve divisions, by neat buttresses, and exhibits a brick porch and four square headed windows. The north side is in three divisions, and has a pointed doorway and square-headed windows. The east end is blank, except on the north side, where is a pointed window of three Ughts ; the place of the other windows being occupied by two large buttresses of brick, On the north side is a small brick vestry. The interior is of one space, with a waggon-head ceiling, adorned with grotesque bosses, and supported on simUar corbals at the sides. The altar piece consists of four Corinthian pilasters, supporting a broken angular pediment, in which are the Eoyal Arms of Queen Anne, with the date of 1703, probably the date of the last repair of the Church. The pulpit is hexagonal, and the font, which is octagonal, is new. In the windows are some remains of stained glass, particularly the Royal Arms of Edward HI. There are no monuments worthy of notice. Near the entrance is an inscription in memory of William Bowes, Lord Mayor, a.d. 1416. There was anciently an altar in this Church, belonging to the GuUd of St. Mary and St. Martin the Confessor. Near the walls of the City in the neighbourhood of Aldwark, a little to the north west of Merchant Tailors' HaU, is supposed to have stood the Church of St. Helen on the Walls,* which was anciently a Rectory of medi- eties, under the patronage of the families of Graunt or Grant, Salvaine, and Langton, to the latter of whom in process of time feU the sole presentation. • Camden mentions that the ashes of the Eoman Emperor Constantius Chlorus, who died in York about the year 306, were certainly deposited in this City, and that the place of their interment (a vaulted tomb, within a little Chapel) was found soon after the Eeformation. The sepulchre thus spoken of by this learned antiquary, is said to have been where the Church of St. Helen stood in Aldwark ; and it is highly probable that Con stantine the Great, who became a convert to Christianity, caused a Christian Church to be built over the place where his father's ashes were deposited. This idea is strengthened by the name of his mother being connected with the Church, and by the vicinity of this buUding to the Imperial Palace. Camden adds a marvellous story of a lamp having been found burning in the tomb, which was soon extinguished by the communication of the air, and this too on the authority of several inteUigent inhabitants of the city. 53S ECCLESLASTIOAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. It was united to the Church of St. Cuthbert, as above mentioned, and no remains of the buUdings are now visible. The ancient parish Church of Layerthorpe, dedicated to St. Mary, was a Eectory, and was united to St. Cuthbert's. The remains of this building, whieh stood without the Postern, on the hiU on the right hand, have also disappeared in toto. The Church of All Saints, or All Hallows, of which there are now no re mains, stood in the centre of Peaseholme Green. Its foundations were dis covered in erecting the present weighing machine. It was a Eectory in the gift of the families that claimed the patronage of St. Helen's Church, and was united with St. Cuthbert's, as before stated, in 1585. Chuech of St. Dennis, or Dyonis, Walmgate. — Tradition represents this Church to have been originaUy a Jewish Synagogue, or Tabernacle, but there seems to be no ground for the opinion. It is an ancient Discharged Eectory, and before the Eeformation it formed part of the possessions of the Hospital of St. Leonard in this Citj'. At the dissolution it came to the Crown, and since the year 1585, when the Church of St. George was united to it, the patronage has been alternately in the Crown, and the family of Palmes, of Naburn. St. Dennis's was anciently the parish Church of the Percy's, Earls of Northumberland, whose residence in the City stood opposite to it, and was called Percy's Inn. (See page 346). This Church was formerly a spacious handsome structure, with a neat and lofty spire in the midst of it. At the siege of 1644 this spire was perforated by a cannon baU from the Parliament arian batteries ; about sixty years after that accident it was greatly damaged by lightning, and in 1778 it suffered severely from a high wind. The Church was much reduced, by taking down the west end, in 1798, in con sequence of the foundation being injured by a large and deep drain passing too near it, which was intended to draw the water from the Foss Islands. At the same time the spire was taken down, and a square tower substituted. The reduction which the Church underwent at that time rendered what was originaUy the length of it shorter than its breadth ; and hence the edifice has a novel and singular appearance. In 1847 the tower was rebuUt, the Church repewed, and the whole fabric substantiaUy repaired. The present Rector is the Rev. James Sabben. The Ediflce, which is dedicated to St. Dennis, a French Saint, consists only of the ancient chancel and its aisles, with a west tower. The latter is three stories high, embattled, and contains two beUs. The south side of the Church is made into three divisions, by buttresses ; in the first from the west of which is a beautiful arched doorway of five enriched mouldings, resting on piers. This doorway was formerly approached by an elegant Anglo-Saxon porch, which stood prior to the re- ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. 539 duction of the Church, and which was in some degree similar to the much- admired one at St. Margaret's Church. In the remaining divisions, as well as on the north side, are pointed windows of three Ughts. The east end of the chancel rises considerably above the aisles, but each of the roofs rises to an apex. The east end is made into separate divisions, by buttresses ; in the centre division is a depressed headed window of five lights, above which is a clock placed there in 1818 ; and in the aisles are pointed windows, one of four and the other of five lights. The interior has an equaUy strange appearance with the exterior, but it is neatly fitted up. The lower story of the tower is used as a vestry, and on the second story there is a small gallery. The aisles are separated from the nave by two large pointed arches. The roof of the nave is flat and panelled, the intersections being marked by gro tesque flgures, shields, &c. The pttlpit is neatiy carved, and the font is octagonal. A new organ has recently been erected in this Church, by sub scription. The windows of this Church were once filled with stained glass. The east window at present exhibits figures of the Crucifixion, the Blessed Virgin, St. John, St. Dennis, and an Archbishop. In the south aisle win dow are the heads of two female Saints, very beautiful and perfect. The body of Henry Earl of Northumberland, killed at the battle of Towton, is buried under a large slab of blue marble (the family vault) in the north aisle. On the walls on each side of the Communion table are monuments-^one to the memory of Mrs. Dorothy Hughes, and the other to R. W. Hotham, Esq., Sheriff of York, in 1801, who died in 1806, aged 48. The former monu ment, which has no date, has an antique female figure kneeling, in the costume of the latter part of the seventeenth century ; and the latter, which is of elegant marble, exhibits at the top a dove descending towards a weeping figure leaning upon an urn. In the west end of the south aisle is a large tablet, with a Corinthian pillar on each side, to the memory of Dorothy Wil son, spinster, who died in 1717, aged 73, and left a considerable number of legacies for charitable purposes. There were formerly several ancient inscrip tions in this Church, including one to the memory of Vice-Admiral Holmes, a native of York, who died in 1558. The " Chuech of St. Geoege, Fishergate," which for ecclesiastical pur poses is united with the Church of St. Dennis, stood in the burial ground in St. George's Street. It was a Eectory, originaUy in the patronage of the family of Palmes, of Naburn, many of whom are interred here ; that village being partly in the parish of St. George. It was afterwards in the gift of the Malbyes, of Acaster, and in the reign of Eichard II. it was appropriated to the Nunnery of Monkton. The Churchyard is an elevated situation^ and 3 Y 530 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. in the waU next to Fishergate Postern, is yet remaining a curious mutilated piece of sculpture, that in all probabiUty is a sepulchral remnant of a lady of the early ages. Mr. Hargrove tells us that part of the west end of the Church was standing a few years ago, but there are no remains of it now visible. There was one Chantry founded in this Church, at the altar of St. Mary, for the soul of Nicholas, son of Hugh de Sutton. This Churchyard is remarkable as having been the place where was interred the body of Richard' Turpin, the notorious highwayman, who was tried and convicted for horse stealing, at York Assizes, and executed on the 7th of April, 1739, " Tradition asserts," says AUen, " that early on the morning of the inter ment, the body was stolen for the purpose of dissection ; but a mob having assembled on the occasion, it was traced by them to a garden, whence it was borne in triumph through the streets t)n four men's shoulders, replaced in the same grave, and a quantity of slacked lime deposited round the body. On the coffin," he continues, " was inscribed R. T., 38 ; but he is said to have informed the executioner that he was 33 years of age." This yard was used as a place of burial for persons dying of the cholera in 1833. The Church or parochial Chapel of Naburn is situate about four miles south of York, on the eastern bank of the river Ouse. The Uving is annexed to the Rectory of St. Dennis. St. Olave's Chuech, Marygate. — This Church, which, according to Drake, is the oldest ecclesiastical foundation in York, except the Cathedral, appears to have been built by Siward, Earl of Northumbria, and dedicated to St. Olave, the Danish King and Martyr. It is recorded in the Saxon Chronicle that Earl Siward died in 1055, and was buried " within the Minster at Gal manho,* which he had ordered to be built and consecrated in the name of God and St. Olave, to the honour of God and aU his Samts." In the time of WiUiam II. it was an ancient Rectory in the possession of Alan, Earl of Bretagne, to whom it was given by the Conqueror.+ Alan gave it with the four acres of land, on which St. Mary's Abbey afterwards stood, to Stephen and his monks, who had fled from Whitby, in order that they might settle here ; and for some time it was used as the Conventual Church. After the Abbey Church was erected, St. Olave's was accounted as a Ohapel dependent on the monks; and it is probably on this account that no valuation is put upon the Uving in the King's Books. During the siege of York, in 1644, the old edifice was much shattered in consequence of a battery of guns having been planted upon its roof— some of the hottest firing having taken » Galmanho was the ancient name of Marygate. t Archbishop Sharp's MS. ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OP YOEK. S31 place in this quarter. It was however repaired in the reign of Charles II., and afterwards nearly rebuilt in 1733-8, the stone for the exterior being chiefly from the ruins of the Abbey of St. Mary, which it adjoins. " One may easily imagine this Church to have been built out of St. Mary's Abbey," says Gent, " it is indeed a handsome one, but with little or no marks of an tiquity." The same observation is stiU applicable. It exhibits a mixture of ancient materials and modern workmanship so combined, as to be worthy the attention of the curious. In this Church was formerly a seat for the use of the Lords President of the North, who usually attended divine service here. The benefice, to which the ancient one of St. Giles is united, is a Perpetual Curacy, in the patronage of Earl de Grey, probably as lessee under the Crown ; and the present incumbent is the Rev. Frederick Augustus Bartlet. Tlie Fabric, which is in the late Perpendicular style, consists of a nave, side aisles, and west tower. The latter appendage contains six beUs, and is surmounted by a parapet and eight sleight pinnacles. ThB north side of the Church is made into six divisions by buttresses, with gargoyles ending iu crocketed pinnacles. This side of the Church has some good windows and a pointed doorway, over which is a large niche without a statue. The south side is much plainer. The east window is of four lights, with cinquefoil heads. The interior is very neat, having been entirely refurnished a few years ago, at an expense of about £800., raised by subscription. The seats, which are single with doors, are of Norway oak ; and the pulpit, reading-desk, altar piece, &c, are aU very neat. The east window is fiUed with stained glass, and there is a gaUery at the west end. The font is modern, and very good ; and a new organ was erected here by subscription in 1856. Against the east end of the north aisle is a handsome marble tablet to Frances Worsley, daughter of Thomas Worsley, Esq., of Hovingham Hall, who died in 1837, in her 79th year ; another handsome tablet to Anthony Thorpe, Esq., who died in 1830, aged 73, and Susanna, his widow, who died in 1837, aged 66 ; and another to David Russell, Esq., who died in September, 1840, aged 67. In the same aisle are the following : — a splendid marble monument to the EyrefamUy; a tablet to the Eev. Thomas Cripps, Rector of Cheadle, in Cheshire, who "died in 1794, aged 56; a plain tablet to WiUiam CatteU, and his widow Sarah, who died — the former in 1880, aged §6, and the latter in 1843, aged 71 ; and a very neat sarcophagus to commemorate David Pool^ Esq., who departed this life in 1830, aged 80, and other members of his family. In the east end of the south aisle is an elegantly-carved tablet t@ WUliam Thornton, architect, who died in 1731, aged 51 years; and a neat marble tablet to John Dyson (who died iu 1837, aged 73), and his two wives. 533 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OP YOEK, Against the wall of this aisle are handsome tablets to Mr. George Hutchinson, of Reeth, in this County, who died in 1775, aged 33, and his mother, Eliza beth Hutchinson, who died in 1774 ; to Charles Christopher Richard, third son of Francis Beynton Hacket, Esq., of Moor HaU, Warwickshire, who died in his 36th year, in 1849 ; to Alathea, wife of John Jordon, Esq., Colonel of the 9th Dragoons, who died in 1741, and was buried here ; and to John Roper, Esq,, and Sarah, his wife, the former died in 1836, aged 69, and the latter in 1835, in her 61st year. The parish of St. Giles or St. Egidius the Abbot, was united to that of St, Olave in 1685 ; the ancient Church of that parish, we are told by Gent, stood "in St, Giles's Gate, vulgarly caUed GUlygate," Its exact site is said to be near the middle of that street, on the north-west side. The parish of St, Olave is without the walls of the City, in the North Riding of the County, and Wapentake of Bulmer, and contains the hamlet of Marygate, part of the township of Clifton, one-third of Heworth, and one-third of RawcUffe, St. ¦ Helen's Chueoh, St. Helen's Square, was anciently a Rectory appro priated to the Nunnery of Molesby, in Lincolnshire ; and in the reign of Henry V. a Vicarage was obtained in it. ' At the Reformation the patronage came to the Crown. The present Vicar is the Rev. William Hey. It appears that there were formerly four Churches in York and its suburbs dedicated in honour of St. Helen, or Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great ; and tradition says that the one we are now describing stands on the site of a heathen Temple dedicated to the goddess Diana, whose statues usuaUy were placed where three ways met. This wUl appear the more probable when we recollect that in 1770, some Eoman foundations were discovered near it. From its awkward situation at the junction of three streets, in the Act passed in the 1st of Edward VI. (1547), St. Helen's, commonly termed in Stonegate, was suppressed and defaced, " because it seemed much to deform the City, being a great delay to some streets meeting and winding at it." The in habitants, however, in the 1st of Queen Mary (1568), procured an Act of ¦Parliament to enable them to re-edify the Church, and restore the Churchyard that extended from it so far as to occupy a great part of the area, in front of several old cottages, which then stood where the York Tavern (now Harker's Eoyal Hotel) was erected in 1770. The ground of the Churchyard having risen to an enormous height by successive interments, it was approached from the street by an ascent of stone steps, and the entrance into the Church was by a descent of a simUar kind. This rendered the passage for carriages to the Assembly Rooms extremely unpleasant ; and in 1748, the Corporation gave the parish a plot of grpund in Davygate for a place of interment, and ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OP YOEK. 538 leveUed and appropriated the Churchyard to the public use ; and by some anomaly of taste or language called it St. Helen's Square, notwithstanding its triangular shape. Prior to these alterations the area bore the opprobrious name of Cuckold's Corner. There were three Chantries in this Church, one founded by William de Grantham, merchant, in 1871 ; another by Ralph de Hornby, merchant, in 1373; and the third by John de Nassington, the period of which is uncertain. The edifice abuts on the space caUed a square, to which it gives name, and consists of a nave, chancel, and side aisles. As we have seen, the whole structure was partly rebuilt, and entirely restored in the beginning of the reign of Queen Mary ; its general style is Decorated. The roof of the nave (at the west end) rises to an apex, on which is a smaU octangular lantern, or bell turret, erected about forty-five years ago, when the old octagonal steeple was taken down. Each face of this lantern appendage has a pointed window, and it is finished with a neat pierced battlement. The west front has buttresses terminating in crocketed pinnacles, and a recessed pointed arch, beneath which is a very handsome window of four lights. Under this window is a pointed doorway, the weather cornice resting on shields. The west end of the south aisle is made into two divisions by but tresses, which gives the Church a very singular appearance. In them are pointed windows of three lights, and the battlement, which is continued on the aisles, is pierced in a very tasteful manner. The west end of the north aisle is partly built against, and the remainder of the edifice is totaUy con cealed from view. In the interior the centre is divided from the aisles by four pointed arches resting on octagonal columns without bases or capitals. The east window has some stained glass left, representing full length figures of a King and Queen, Bishops, and several Saints ; and in the windows of the aisles, are some shields of arms of the families of Beauchamp, Fitzhugh, Percy, Lucy, and Skirlaw. The roof of the Church is ceiled and plain ; in the west end is a smaU gaUery, on which stands a small organ. The pulpit is octagonal, and the altar piece is neat. The old Saxon font, Uned with lead, and ornamented with antique sculpture, is the most curious in the City. There is here a small marble tablet to the memory of two maiden sisters, v Barbara and Elizabeth Davyes, who died in 1765 and 1767, each 98 years of age. They lived in the reign of Charles IL, and the five successive Monarchs, This tablet was erected by their nephew " to perpetuate their memory, and the singular instance of their longevity and departure in the same year of their age," This Church being in a dilapidated state, a subscription is now being raised for the purpose of restoring. §34 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEE. Chuech op St. John the Evangelist, Micklegate, formerly caUed St. John's, Ouse Bridge End.— 'fhis is a Perpetual Curacy, appertaining to the Dean and Chapter of York, and though mentioned in the Liber Regis, has no value affixed to the Uving. The present incumbent is the Rev. Edwin Fox. The Building consists of a nave and side aisles, the south side and east end abutting upon Micklegate and North Street. In 1551 the lofty steeple of this Church was blown down, and has never been rebuilt, but its place is suppUed by an ugly brick turret, very much resembUng a pigeon cote, which gr;eatiy disfigures the Church. In this excrescence hangs a peal of six bells, three of which were brought from the ancient Church of St. Nicholas, out bf Walmgate, and hung up here in 1653. There was formerly a burial ground, surrounded by a waU, in front of this Church ; but at the time of the improvements about Ouse Bridge, the wall was removed and a portion of the Churchyard was taken into the street. In 1850 the east end was puUed down, rebuilt, and straightened, to widen the street, the north side was restored with Whitby stone, and the whole Church was thoroughly re paired. At the same time the Church was refurnished — single seats being substituted for the old-fashioned high pews. The cost of the restoration, re parations, &c., was about £900., raised by voluntary contribution, aided by a grant from the Church Building Society. The architect was Mr. George Fowler Jones, of York. The edifice is partly in the Decorated and partly in the Perpendicular styles ; its south side is in five divisions, made by but tresses of three gradations. In the first from the west is a smaU but very neat porch, and a smaU square-headed window of two lights ; in each of the three succeeding divisions is a depressed arched window of three lights, and in the easternmost division is a similar window of two Ughts. The finish of this facade is a string course and battlement, and the buttresses are finished with gargoyles and pinnacles. At the east end the roofs of the three aisles rake to an apex, and are without ornament. There are three large windows in this end. The west front is built against, and the north side of the Church is partiy concealed from view. The interior is very neat, three large pointed arches, springing from octegonal piUars, divide the aisles from the nave. The east end of the latter is used as a chancel. The ceUing is flat and panelled, and the roofs of the aisles, which have a sUght rising, are panelled with bosses of arms, &c. The aisles evidently had formerly a groined roof, as there are remains of several corbals. The altar piece is plain, the pulpit sexagonal, and the font is new and good. A portion of the west end of the north aisle is used as a vestry, but the building of a vestry on the north side of the Church is in contemplation. In the vestry are two curious pewter ECCLESLASTIOAL EDIFICES OP YOEK. 535 flagons, one of which is seventeen inches high and five inches in diameter, with scroll work engraved. It is of seven sides, each adorned with a fuU length figure, habited in the costume of the middle of the seventeenth century. The windows still retain some painted glass, representing the Crucifixion, the Interment, &c., of our Lord, and the arms of York, NevUle, and other families. There were anciently four chantries in this Church. Here lie interred the remains of Sir Eichard Yorke, of York, Knight, who represented this City in six different Parliaments, and died in 1508. He was Mayor of the Staple at Calais, and Lord Mayor of this City in 1469 and 1483. On the north side of the Communion table is an altar monument lately inscribed to his memory, though it is not certain that it was erected for him. " North of the altar," says Gent, " is a tomb without any inscription, nor could I learn who was interred therein ; neither guess, unless of Sir Eichard Yorke, de picted in the windows above it." The modern monuments are not numerous, nor worthy of particular notice. Chuech of St. Laweence, out of Walmgate Bar, in the street to which it gives name. — This was anciently a Rectory belonging to the Dean and Chapter of York ; it was one of the great farms of that body, and usuaUy demised to one of the Canons Residentiary, at an annual rent of £9. 18s. 4d. It is now a pecuUar Vicarage in their gift, and in the incumbency of the Rev. John Eobinson. A Chantry was founded here in 1346, by Nicholas Wartyr. In 1865 the Church of St. Michael was united to this Church, subject to a pension of 13s. 4d. per annum, to the Priory and Convent of Kirkham ; and in 1585 Archbishop Sandys, with the Mayor and Corporation, united to it the Churches of St. Helen and All Saints, in Fishergate. At the siege of York in 1644, the Church of St. Lawrence was nearly destroyed, and it re mained in ruins till 1669, when it was repaired partially, but in the year 1817 it was thoroughly restored and enlarged. The Edifice, which is of mixed styles, consists only of a nave or body, and a chancel, with a small western tower of three stories. In the west front of the lower story of the tower is a rude sculpture, representing St. Lawrence and the gridiron. The windows of the Church are small, and of different shapes, some having pointed arches, others circular, and some square-headed. On the north side is a beautiful Norman doorway, somewhat resembling those belonging to the Churches of St. Margaret and St. Dennis. The circular head of this doorway is of four mouldings, the interior one being plain, and the rest of a scroll or flower pattern. The two outer mouldings rest on columns ; on the capital of one is sculptured a Sagittarius, and on the other one the Holy Lamb opposed by a dragon. The interior of the Church is 586 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OP YOEK. very plain. The tower is open to it by a low pointed arch ; the arch between the nave and chancel is pointed; the ceilings of both the nave and the chancel are flat, and at the west end is a smaU gaUery sustained by two Tuscan pillars. The font, which is of Purbeck marble, is very curious. It consists of an octagonal basin, ornamented with bosses of heads, leafage, and grotesque flgures, standing on a pedestal of the same form. In the tracery of the east window are the family arms of Hesketh — arg. on a bend sab. three garbs or; crest, a garb, or, banded az. — with this motto "C'est La Sevl veetve qvt Donne La' Noblesse '' ('Tis virtue only that confers nobility). In the chancel are several neat marble monuments, inscribed to the memory of different branches of the Yarburgh family, of Heslington, a neighbouring village, who have a vault in this Church. Drake mentions " two antique statues, which lie on the Churchyard wall (of St. Lawrence's), to the street, in priests' habits, but whether Christian or Pagan is a doubt." There is no longer a doubt on this point, for it seems very certain that they have been a portion of a series of statues which once adorned the Church of St. Mary's Abbey, and eight of which are now in the Yorkshire Museum. (See page 504). The waU upon which they stood in Drake's time has been superseded by a neat iron palisade, and the two effigies now stand against the north wall of the Church — one on each side of the Norman doorway. "It is much to be regretted," says the Eev. C. WeUbeloved, "that the statues now in the Churchyard of St. Lawrence, should be separated from the other remains of the series of which they were originally a part, and placed on the sides of a Norman portal, with which they have no proper con nection, where they have no meaning, excite no particular interest, are seen by few, and are exposed to still further injury from the weather.'' Against the same wall of this Church is fixed a large grit stone, supposed by some historians to have been a Eoman altar, and by others a portion of a cross of memorial. It is without any inscription. In the course of the year 1854, the Archbishop of York consecrated an acre of land as an enlargement of the burial ground of this Church. The cost, about £800., has been liberally contributed to by N. E. Yarburgh, Esq., and Yarburgh Yarburgh, Esq., late owners, successively, of the Heslington estate. In consequence of the enlargement this burial ground was suffered to remain open, subject to the conditions noticed at page 374, whilst aU the other Churchyards in York were closed. Against the west wall of the Churchyard is a large mo nument, to the memory of six children of the late Mr. Rigg, of this parish, and another person, who were drowned in the Ouse, near Acomb landing, by their pleasure-boat being run down by a vessel in full saU on the 19th of ecclesiastical EDIFICES OF YOEK. 537 August, 1830. The epitaph is by James Montgomery. A stone coffin serves the purpose of a trough to a pump in the street in front of this Churchyard. The ancient Church of St. Michael was situated near Walmgate Bar. It was a Rectory, appropriated to the Priory and Convent of Kirkham. In 1365 it was united by the Archbishop of York to the adjoining Church and parish of St. Lawrence, the Vicars paying to the Convent of Kirkham, out of the tithes, the annual sum of 18s. 4d. There are no traces of the edifice to be seen, and its exact site is unknown ; but the Eev. C. WeUbeloved says, " I am inclined to think, from some information I received from one of the Ordnance surveyors, that it was near the Bar, on the east side of the road to Fulford." The ancient Church of St. Nicholas stood in Watlingate (now Lawrence Street), on the ground adjoining Plantation House and the Tan-yard. It was originally connected with the Hospital of St. Nicholas ; and after the dissolution of religious houses, it remained parochial untU the siege of York in 1644, when it was destroyed by the Parliamentarians. We learn from tradition that the soldiers seized the bells, intending to cast them into can non; but being rescued from them by Lord Fairfax, they were, in 1658, placed in St. John's Church, Micklegate. The magnificent old porch in front of St, Margaret's Church, Walmgate, was brought from this building ; and the other parts of the ruins were successively removed to repair the roads, &c,, till the whole completely disappeared. Upon the same road, a Uttie fur ther towards Heslington, at the corner of Edward Street, and opposite Lamel HiU, formerly stood the Church of St. Edward, which was a Eectory, under the Archbishops of York, and thus continued tiU 1585, when it was united to the Church of St. Nicholas. Time has destroyed every vestige of this ancient structure. The Church of St. Helen, in Fishergate, was situated on the road to Ful ford, but its site cannot be exactly ascertained. The Church of All Saints is supposed to have stood on a part of the present Cattle market, without Fishergate Bar. Drake observes that he. could not ascertain where All Saints' was erected, but the many relics of mortality which were exposed in 1836, on opening the ground for the new market, leaves little doubt that it was the site of the above Church. AU Saints' was a very ancient Eectory, given by King WUliam II. to the Abbey of Whitby, on condition that the monks there should pray for him and his heirs. There was also another Church in Fishergate, dedicated to St. Andrew, which was a Eectory, given to the Priory of Newburgh, by Lord Mowbray. St. Maegaeet's Chuech, Walmgate. — Walter Fagenulf gave this Church 3 z 533 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. and that of St. Mary, which were conjoined into one Eectory, and which also stood in this street, to the Hospital of St. Peter or St. Leonard, York, in the reign of Henry I. At the time of the dissolution the patronage came to the Crown, where it still remains. The Eev. George Coopland is the present Eector. In 1673 the steeple of this Church feU down, and seriously injured the roof of the buUding, which, owing to inability, or unwillingness of the parish at that period, was not repaired till 1684, when the parishioners were assisted by a subscription for the work. The roof was then covered with red tiles, and the square tower was chiefly built with bricks. In 1839 the Church underwent a considerable restoration ; but in 1851-3 the structure, except the tower, was enlarged and nearly rebuilt. The Ediflce is situated in the Church yard behind the houses on the north side of the street, and the approach from the street is through a neat pair of iron gates. Its parts are a nave, the east end of which is used as a chancel, a north aisle, a small Chapel on the south side, now used as a vestry, and a brick tower at the west end. This tower, which contains three good beUs, has stone quoins, and a battlement, with de cayed pinnacles at the angles. In one of the three divisions of the south side of the Church, is a beautiful and very celebrated porch, which was brought here from the Church or Hospital of St. Nicholas, which formerly stood with out Walmgate Bar. This particularly curious doorway, of very early work manship, is undoubtedly the most extraordinary specimen of Norman or even Saxon sculpture and architecture this country can exhibit. It consists of four united semicircular arches, below and within each other. The top or outer arch exhibits the twelve signs of the zodiac, with a thirteenth zodiacal sign, according to the Anglo-Saxon calendar, which continued in use for some time after the Norman Conquest, each sign being foUowed by a hieroglyphical representation of the corresponding month. Beneath the zodiacal signs is a carved flower moulding. The second arch comprises twenty-two grotesque masks; the third, eighteen hieroglyphical figures; and the fourth, fifteen figures similar to those on the preceding one. "The outer arch is supported by curiously carved pillars, and the three inner ones rest upon round columns. Within the porch is a small recess on each side ; and over the door of the Church is a carved arch, also supported by round columns. The roof of the porch rises to an apex, which is surmounted by a small stone image of the crucifixion ; and the whole, which is singularly pleasing, is an admirable dis play of the taste which prevailed a short time previous to the abandonment of the Saxon style. This splendid piece of ancient art has excited much controversy amongst antiquarians, some contending that it belongs to the tenth or eleventh century, and others again that it is a Roman work. But ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. 539 whatever may be the date of its erection, aU have agreed to pronounce it a most rare and exquisite piece of carving in stone. The recent enlargement and restoration of this Church cost about £1,340., raised by subscription. The width of the north aisle was increased by six feet ; the walls and all the tracery of the windows were restored, and the latter was glazed with Cathe dral glass, with a coloured margin. The Church was new roofed, and covered, together with the splendid porch, with slate, instead of the old red tiles ; the vestry was new roofed, and a new window inserted in it. The interior was refurnished, and the gaUery at the west end was enlarged and elevated. This gaUery was erected in 1839, at a cost of 500 guineas, of which sum the present Rector contributed £300. Previous to the alterations, the Church accommodated 400 persons, but provision is now made for 540, the additional sittings being free. The interior of the building has an exceedingly chaste and elegant appearance, and not the least improvement is the substitution of neat open seats for the old high pews. The roofs are open, and of stained pine, and the benches are stained and varnished. The reading desk and altar rails are new, and in keeping with the other fittings, but the pulpit, which is sexagonal, is old. The tower is open to the Church, and the aisle is divided from the body of the Church by four pointed arches, resting on oc tagonal columns, without capitals. The elegant new font is from the chisel of Mr. WiUiam Jackson, of this City, sculptor, and is the gift of Mrs. L. S. Townsend. It is of Caen stone, and has eight sunk panels, with sacred mo nograms and foliage carved therein. In 1865 a new organ was erected in this Church, at a cost of about £70., raised by subscription. At the chancel end of the nave is a neat tablet to the memory of T, Wilson, Esq,, an eminent bookseUer in this City, who served the office of Sheriff in 1767, and died in 1780, aged 59; and another to S, Wormold, Esq., Lord Mayor of York in 1809, who died iu 1814, aged 59 years. Several large trees in the Church yard being in a state of decay, were removed about ten years ago, and young trees planted instead of thefei. The ancient Church of St. Peter in the Willows, which at the time of the union of the Churches in York was united to St, Margaret's, was situated at the end of Long Close Lane, near its junction with Walifigate, It was an ancient Rectory, in the gift of the Monastery of Kirkham, and in it was a per petual Chantry, founded at the altar of St, Mary, but the founder's name is unknown, Chuech of St, Maetin the Bishop, Coney Street. — This is sometimes denominated the Church of St, Martin-le-Grand, but for which title there is 540 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK, not the sUghtest authority. It was a parochial Church prior to the Norman Conquest, for in the Domesday Survey it is noticed that " Cospatrick has the Church of St, Martin in Conyng Streete," Since that time it was numbered amongst the great farms of the Dean and Chapter of York; and in 1331 that body appointed William de Langtoft, Vicar of the Perpetual Vicarage thereof, and gave him an adjoining house to dwell in, with other privileges, including the fruits and obventions of the Churqhes of St, Andrew, St, Stephen, and St. John, in Hungate, and the mediety of St, Helen, in Werkdyke; and, as dependent on St. Martin's, the Churches of St. Michael de Berefride, St. John ad Pontem Use, and St. Mary, in Layerthorpe. There were two Chantries here also, for the support of which certain houses were erected in the Churchyard and their rents paid to the officiating priests. The living is StiU a Vicarage, in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter, and now in the incumbency of the Rev. William Henry Oldfield. The Fabric, which is a good specimen of late perpendicular work, is com posed of a nave (the east end of which is used as a chancel), and side aisles, and a handsome square tower at the south west angle. This tower is in three stories, and has several good windows, with weather cornices resting on human heads, &c., and is finished with a handsome battlement pierced with iquatrefoil and trefoU panels ; and at eaoh angle are double buttresses, which rise to nearly the height of the building, where they are finished by square shafts terminating in crocketed pinnacles, and secured to the structure by gargoyles of the most grotesque description. In the tower is a peal of eight bells, presented by WiUiam Thompson, Esq., in 1739. Each bell has a quaint motto ; for example, the sixth bell gives this piece of exceUent advice : " AU you who hear my mournful sound, Eepent before you Ue in ground." The west end oi the nave, which rises to an apex, is of considerable height, and contains a fine window of five lights, and ^ the same end of the north aisle has a similar window of three lights. The south side of the Church is made into five divisions by small buttresses of two gradations, from which rise shafts with gargoyles. The entrance to the edifice is in the first divi sion from the west, and consists of a smaU porch recently rebuUt. The other divisions on this side contain each a pointed window of three Ughts, and the clerestory of the nave and chancel contains five depressed arched window of four lights. Both aisle and clerestory finish with a cornice and plain parapet. The east end abuts on Coney Street, and is rendered re- ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OP YOEK, 541 markable by a large circular Uluminated clock, which projects into the street,* Upon this clock is the figure of a man holding a quadrant, as if in the act of taking a solar observation,f This quadrant formerly always pointed to the sun. The east window, which is handsome, is similar to that in the west end of the nave ; and the east end of the aisles have each a pointed window of three Ughts, Beneath the north aisle window is a square headed doorway, and between the central and north windows of this end of the Church is a smaU square niche, which, before the recent restoration, contained a muti lated statue of the Virgin and Child, The north side of the building being built against has no windows. In the years 1863 and 1854, the whole of the south side and the eastern ends of the aisles were almost rebuilt, and a rich pierced battlement was added, of a similar design to that which was removed about forty years ago, with handsome pinnacles engaged with grotesque gargoyles. The above-mentioned statue was restored and placed in the niche, but having been considered by some to be " a most offensive addition to a Protestant place of worship," it was quickly removed by order of the Archbishop of York, The restorations were completed and the Church was re-opened for Divine Service on Sunday, December 34, 1854, The cost of the restoration and improvement, about £1,100,, was raised partly by sub scription, and partly by mortgaging the funds belonging to the parish. The Dean and Chapter contributed towards the restoration of the chancel end of the edifice, St, Martin's Church is now one of the handsomest in the City, and its appearance from the river is beautiful, AUen tells us that previous to the year 1778, there was a considerable quantity of Gothic work on the buttresses, but that " it being thought desirable to improve the appearance of that part of the Church, it was aU torn away by the ruthless hand of unfeeling ignorance." The interior of the Church is handsome. The body is divided from the aisles by six pointed arches, supported by octagonal columns. The roofs are flat, and paneUed with 'bosses of angels, pomegranates, &c., enriched with * A large projecting circular clock was first erected against this Church by the parish, in 1668 ; but during the past year (1856) it was removed, and the present elegant Ulu minated electric clock erected in its stead. The latter, which is valued at three hundred guineas, was mauufactured by Mr. Thomas Cooke, of Coney Street, at his Mathematical and Philosophical Instrument Manufactory (Buckingham Works), BishophiU, York. This clock, from its position, is hardly less useful to the pubUc than that of the Cathedral. t The wags of the Ciiy say that this man steps down from his elevated situation every time he hears the clock strike. 543- ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. foUage. The Church was repewed some twenty years ago. The altar piece is neat, and the balusters round the Communion table are very elegantly carved. The pulpit is modern. There was formerly suspended before the pulpit an ancient and curious piece of embroidery, highly ornamented, con sisting of a piece of puce coloured velvet with stars of gold, having in the centre a representation of the Holy Trinity, and on the sides and end fuU length effigies of the Apostles, aU in good preservation. This interesting relic, which doubtless at a former period formed a splendid cope for the min isters of the ancient faith, was presented to the Yorkshire Museum in 1840. Mr. Allen has no doubt that at the time of the Reformation " many scores of equally curious and elegant specimens of the taste and ingenuity of our fore fathers had been burnt to ashes in the streets of York." The font is oc tagonal, plain and massy, on a similar stand, with an elegantly carved cover, having the date 1717, and the names of the churchwardens of that year carved round its rim. The organ stands at the west end of the nave. This Church was formerly very rich in ancient stained glass. In 1733 the glass from the great east window, which contained " the history of St, Athanasius and his creed," was, according to Gent, removed to the Minster by order of the Dean. The large west window, which is called St. Martin's window, exhibits a fuU length effigy of that Saint, with several legends con cerning him ; five of the six clerestory windows on one side are also fiUed with stained glass, and there are some remains of that beautiful article in the windows of the aisle. These contain figures of the Blessed Virgin, St. George, St. John of Beverley, St. William, St. Dennis, the four EvangeUsts, St. Catherine, &c. There are likewise five very beautiful modern stained glass windows in this Church, of which those in the east and west ends of the south aisle, and the north west window of the same aisle, together with the east window of the north aisle, were executed by Wailes, of New castle-upon-Tyne ; and two others at the west end of the south aisle, are partly by Barnett, late of York. The stained glass in these four windows, as well as the coloured glass of the chancel window, and the windows of the clerestory on the south side, is the gift of the Vicar, the Eev. W. H. Oldfield, and other members of the famUy of that name. The fifth mpdern stained glass window occupies the easternmost bay of the south aisle, and was erected at the expense of the parishioners. The latter window contains in the centre Ught a whole length figure of our Saviour. That at the east end of the south aisle, exhibits in the centre Ught a group representing the work of mercy — " Clothing the Naked " — in aUusion to the legend of St. Martin having on one occasion divided his cloak with a beggar. In the ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. 543 window of the east end of the north aisle, is a group representing another work of mercy — that of " Feeding the Hungry." The monuments are pretty numerous. In the waU at the east end of the south aisle is a curious black marble slab to commemorate Thomas Colthurst, Esq., of York, who died in June, 1588; at the corners of it are shields in which his crest is repeated. At the east end of the Church is a tablet to the memory of Peter Johnson, Esq., Eecorder of this City, who died in 1796, aged 76. In the nave is a neat slab to Prances Howard, daughter of F. Howard, Esq., of Corby Castle, Cumberland, who died in 1719, aged 31 ; a tablet to WiUiam Dobson, Esq., Lord Mayor of York in 1739, and EUzabeth his wife, the former died in 1749, and the latter in 1768 ; a handsome Gothic monument to John Kendall, Esq., and his wife, who died, the former in 1833, aged 76, and the latter in 1833, aged 79 ; a neat marble tablet, surmounted by an urn, to Alexander Gerrard, Esq., barrister-at-law, who died in this City during the Assizes, in March, 1791, aged 51 ; a tablet to John Girdler, Esq., who died in 1798, aged 83 ; two neat tablets to the EadcUffe family ; and a neat marble tablet to WUliam Oldfield, Esq., Lord Mayor in the years 1835 and 1833, who died in 1846, aged 65. This like wise commemorates his widow, Ann Tamar, who died in 1853, aged 63, At the east end of the north aisle is a handsome monument to Sir William Sheffield, Knt,, who died in 1633, aged 58. It exhibits busts of Sir Wil liam and his wife, and female figures on each side. Above is a pediment with a shield of arms, and reclining on each side are representations of Faith and Hope with Charity in the centre. On the floor at the end of this aisle is a brass plate, bearing the inscription, " In memory of Mary Ann CampbeU, who died in 1806, aged 39 years, E. I. P." In the south aisle is a slab to E. J. ChaUoner, Esq., who died in 1830, aged 30 ; and near it is one to the memory of Mrs. Porteus, mother of the learned Bielby Porteus, Bishop of London, who was born in York, and was the youngest of nineteen children. Also tablets to Thos, Surr, and members of his family; Ann Townsend; George Peacock, Esq,, his wife, &c, ; Elizabeth Sayer ; Sarah Stephenson ; and a large handsome one to Eobert Horsfield, Esq, On the floor at the west,.end is a half length figure in brass of C, Harrington, goldsmith, who died in 1614, St. Maetin's Chuech, Micklegate. — An ancient Discharged Eectory, for merly belonging to the Barons Trusbutt, then to the Priory of Wartre or Worter, then to the Lords Scroope, of Masham, and now in the hands of Trustees for the benefit of the parish. The present Eector is the Eev. John Montagu Wynward, for whom the Eev. Thomas Richardson officiates. There 644 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OP YOEK. was one chantry in this Church before the Reformation. The Ediflce, which is of mixed styles, comprises the usual parts of a parish Church. The tower was rebuilt of brick in 1677, and is the most modem part , of the Church. Its west front has a pointed window of three lights, and its finish is a balus trade. In 1565 John Bean, Lord Mayor, gave £100. to buy a set of " tune able beUs;" there are now three bells in the tower. In 1680 a clock and dial were erected, at the cost of the widow of Alderman Bawtry. In 1585 the Church of St. Gregory was united to this Church, and hence it is called St. Martin-cum-Gregory. In the west end of the north aisle is a window of three lights, with trefoil heads ; the end of the south aisle is plain. The north side of the Church, which faces the street, is in two divisions, marked by the style of architecture. The western end, which appears to be of the early part of the fourteenth century, has two windows similar to the one in the west end, and a smaU projecting porch, with an angular roof. The east end is made into four divisions by buttresses of three gradations, finished with grotesque gargoyles. In each division is a pointed window of three Ughts. Above the whole is a parapet supported by sculptured blocks. This portion is a good specimen of the style prevalent in the early part of the fifteenth century. The east end of the Church is almost buUt against. On the apex of the roof is a foliated cross. The entire length of the south side is made into seven divisions by buttresses, finished with gargoyles, much mutilated. The windows are similar to those in the chancel end in the north aisle, but the parapet is without the sculptured blocks. In the interior the nave and chancel are divided from the aisles by three columns, the two westernmost ones being circular ; from the capitals spring pointed arches of the thirteenth century. The chancel is separated from the nave by a plain arch. The altar piece is of the Ionic order, with a circular pediment. The pulpit is of wainscot oak, of sexagonal form, and richly carved. The font is a plain octagon, on a pedestal of the same form. The ceiUng of the chancel rakes to about two-thirds of the chancel arch, where it becomes flat. The roof of the nave, which springs from the clerestory windows, is paneUed, with sculptured bosses at the intersections. The ceiling of the north aisle is plain, and the south aisle is like unto it, except that the chancel portion of it is ceUed Uke the nave, though the bosses are gone. An organ was erected in the tower, which opens to the nave, in 1836. There is a considerable quan tity of stained glass in the windows, but generaUy in sad condition. The remains of Mr. W. Peckitt, glass painter and stainer, of this City, who died in 1795, aged 64, are buried in the chancel of this Church, and there is in one of the windows of the north aisle a neat piece of modern stained glass to ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. 54§ his memory ; and a figure of Religion (between St. Catherine and St. John), by the same artist, to the memory of Anne, his wife, who died in 1765. In the windows of this aisle are also representations of Adam and Eve, and the Baptism of Christ ; and in the windows of the south aisle are St. George and some other Saints, much mutilated. Amongst the monuments is one in the south aisle to T. Carter, Esq., Alderman and Lord Mayor of York, who died in 1686, aged 63 ; one to J. Strickland, Esq., of Siserge, in Westmorland, who died in 1791, aged 88 ; one in the nave to J. Dawson, Esq., who died in 1731 ; and a tablet to Barnard Hague, Esq., and his two sons — one of whom, George Undy, a lieutenant in the 57th regiment, died in November, 1854, of wounds received at the Battle of Inkerman, on the fifth of the same month. The Eegister book of this parish contains many curious entries relative to the siege of York during the Civil War in the reign of Charles I. The ancient Church of St. (fregory stood in Barker Lane, formerly caUed Oregory Lane. This lane leads from Micklegate to Tanner Row. Chueoh of St Maey, BishophUl Senior, or the Elder. — This was an ciently a Rectory of medieties, one of which belonged to the Abbot and Con vent of Healaugh Park, to whom it was given by Robert de Plumpton. It afterwards came to the Crown, and the families of Percy, Vavasour, and Scrope; and in 1515 the whole of the patronage came to the Crowti. In 1585 the parish Church of St. Clement, without Skeldergate Postern, was united to this Church. The Eev. Henry William Beckwith is the present Eector. There were formerly two chantries here. The Structure is smaU and ancient, and having a double row of trees in the Churchyard, it pos sesses a very rural and pleasing appearance. It consists of a nave, chancel, north aisle, and a square tower at the north west angle. According to. Drake there is a great quantity of miUstone grit wrought in the walls. The tower, which was built in 1650, and in which is a peal of six good beUs, is princi paUy of brick, with stone quoins, dressings, and battiements. The nave and chancel have roofs rising to gables, and of red tiles. In the south side is a brick porch, and several pointed windows placed without any order, and in the waUs is a curious carved stone, apparently a portion of a sepulchral me morial, having a cross with rich scroll work. The east end of the buUding is finished with a plain buttress. The large east window in the chancel is of five Ughts, with Perpendicular tracery. The chancel is in the style of the fourteenth century. A modern erection of brick, attached to the east end of the chancel aisle, serves as a vestry. The north side of the nave is in three divisions (including the tower) made by buttresses of four gradations ; and in each division is a pointed arched window of two Ughts, with trefoil heads, 4 A 546 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. the sweeps containing a circle in which is a cinquefoil. The weather cornice terminates in heads much mutilated. The chancel is in two divisions, the centre buttress having a finial. The interior is neatly fitted up. Three semicircular arches, springing from circular columns with square capitals, and one pointed arch which rises from an octagonal pUlar and capital, divides the north aisle from the nave. The chancel is divided from the aisle by three arches similar to the last described. The ceUing of the whole is flat. On the south side of the Communion table is a cinquefoil locker. The font is octagonal, and rests on a similar base. Though much altered, the interior of this Church displays the architecture of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. Amongst the monuments, which are numerous, are but a few particularly worthy of notice. In the chancel is a cenotaph, ornamented with cherubs and drapery, to Elias Pawson, Esq., Alderman, and Lord Mayor 1704, who died in 1715, aged 44 ; and one to G. Dawson, Esq., of York, who died in 1813, aged 79. There is also there a neat monument to Mr. Thomas Eod- well, who died in 1787, aged 44 ; and a Gothic tablet to Mrs. Sarah Atkinson, who died in 1835, aged 89. The Churchyard is extensive, and abounds with tomb stones. Near the tower is a handsome monument, surmounted by a sarcophagus, on lions' feet, to the memory of Mr. Peter Atkinson, late of this City, architect, who died in 1805, aged 70. For some particulars of the Church of- St. Clement, see page 513. The out-townships of Dringhouses and Middlethorpe, in the Ainsty, belong to this parish. Chuech op St. Maey, BishophiU Junior, or the Younger. — This is a Dis charged Vicarage, and one of the great farms of the Dean and Chapter of York. The present incumbent is the Rev. Arthur Howard Ashworth. The Ediflce, which is of great antiquity, was till latterly supposed to be a Saxon structure ; but Mr. WeUbeloved and other antiquarians consider that it was rebuilt in the latter part of the twelfth, or the early part of the thirteenth century, of Saxon and even of Roman materials. Much of the masonry has .a genuine Saxon appearance, especiaUy in the heavy square tower at the west end, which is equal to the breadth of the nave. In the lower portions of the latter appendage are smaU loopholes or windows, and the stones and bricks are disposed in herring-bone masonry, which is quite of the Saxon cha racter. According to Drake this is the largest tower of any parish Church in the City, and the same authority informs us that the north side of the Church is almost wholly built of large stones of grit, on which several regular architectural mouldings can be traced. The plan of the Church em braces a nave and side aisles, with a chancel and north aisle. The tower contains three bells, and is finished with a battlement, and eight small ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. 547 crocketed pinnacles. The roof of the nave rises to a gable. The chancel, which is the most ancient part bf the structure except the tower, has a pointed window of three lights in the east end ; and there is a pointed win dow in the same end of the south aisle. The windows in the south side of the Church are of mixed styles, and the north side is built against. In the interior the nave is divided from the aisles by a cylindrical column, from which spring on the north side two semicircular arches, which rest against the piers ; those on the south side are heavy and pointed. The chancel arch is pointed ; the tower arch is semicircular, resting on piers of strong masonry ; and the chancel is divided from the aisle by two pointed arches, resting on an octagonal column. The roof of the nave is divided into panels, but the bosses which ornamented the angles are gone. The font is a circular basin, on an octangular pillar. There are some remains of stained glass in the windows, but much mutUated. There are no monuments worthy of notice. The out-townships, or Ohapelries of Copmanthorpe and Upper Poppleton, situated in the Ainsty, form portions of this parish. St. Maey's Chuech, Castiegate. — This Church, which is called in ancient writings, Ecclesia Sancte Marie ad portam Castri, is an ancient Eectory of medieties, formerly held by the Percy family. Earls of Northumberland, and the Priory of Kirkham. It was consolidated into one Rectory in the year 1400, under the patronage of the Percy's alone ; and at the Reformation the advowson reverted to the Crown. The present Rector is the Eev. Joseph Salvin. The Ediflce consists of a nave and side aisles, chancel and western tower, and spire. All the angles are finished with buttresses of three grada tions, and at the north west angle is an octagonal staircase. The west front of the tower has a large pointed window of five lights, and a transom. Above this window is a niche, and on each side is a sculptured block and canopy, for statues, but by the decay of the limestone, aU the work that formerly adorned this front, and indeed the whole exterior of the Church, is completely destroyed. The lower story of the tower is finished with a battlement. The second story of the tower is octagonal, of elegant proportions ; in four of the faces of which are pointed windows (nearly the height of the structure) of three lights, with ornamented transoms in the middle ; and in the four re maining faces is a slight buttress of three gradations, finished with gargoyles of heads of animals, &c. These windows are now partiy filled up with brick, which gives them a very unsightiy appearance. This tower is ornamented with the highest and most perfect spire in the City. It too is octagonal, and its height from the ground is 154 feet. The west front of the aisles contain each a window of three Ughts, and eaoh is finished with a string course and 548 ecclesiastical edifices of yoek. battlement, graduaUy rising to the tower. The south side of the Churci is in six divisions divided by buttresses, finished with angular caps crocketed^'- with gargoyles beneath. In the first of these divisions from the west is a pointed arched window of three lights ; in the second, a porch, aud the' other divisions have square-headed windows with transoms. The south aisle is finished with a cornice and battlement. The north side of the structure very closely resembles the south side. When in a perfect state the exterior of this Church must have been very handsome, and would exhibit a good speci men of the ecclesiastical architecture of the sixteenth century. The interior, which is of an earlier date, probably of the latter part of the twelfth century, is spacious. The tower, which contains three bells, opens into the nave and aisles by pointed arches. The nave is divided from the aisles by three pointed arches rising from columns, some of which are circular and some octangular, with capitals of the Norman form, but of different designs. The westernmost arch of the north aisle is pointed, and is double the span of the others, and the corresponding arch of the south aisles is the same span, but circular in form. The arch which divides the chancel from the nave is pointed. The chancel is separated from the side aisles (the east ends of which appear to have formerly been Chapels) by two unequal arches on the south side and three on the north. The top of the east window of the chancel is filled with ancient stained glass, and there is some of the same beautiful material in the window at the east end of the south aisle. In the chancel is an ancient seat, with a sculptured monk on the misericord, and there are in the Church two other similar seats, one of which has the carved misericord. On the south side of the Communion table is a carving in wood of a female, probably the Blessed Virgin, with two angels on each side. The roofs of the nave and chancel have a slight rise, and are panelled without ornaments, as is also the roof of the south aisle ; the ceiling of the north aisle, which is modern, is flat and plastered. The Church is furnished with the old high pews ; the font resembles a large vase. A small organ, purchased by subscription, was erected in the north aisle in 1865. There are several old monumental inscriptions, some of them as old as the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Many of these ancient gravestones are in the floor of the Church, especially in the chancel and side Chapels. In the floor in front of the altar is a slab to the memory of Sir Henry Thompson, of Middlethorpe, and his lady, bearing the arms of that nobleman. In the chancel are tablets to the Eev, E, Coulton, Eector of the Church, who died in 1713, aged 76 ; and W, Mushett, M,D., who died in 1793, aged 77 ; and in the aisles is a large marble tablet to WiUiam Mason, Presbyter, son of Valentine, once Vicar of ecclesiastical edifices of YOEK. 549 EUoughton, who died in 1708, aged 78, and Jane his wife, and a monument to Lewis West, Esq., and his wife — he died in 1718, aged 63, and she died in 1783, aged 77. At the east end of the south aisle are two corbals of angels holding shields charged with the arms of William Gray, who had a chantry founded for him in this Church. In the Churchyard, which has recently been dug and leveUed, is the gravestone of Eliza Kirkham Mathews, widow of the late Charles Mathews, the celebrated comedian, who died in 1803. Thoresby, in the Appendix to his Ducatus Leodiensis, teUs us that he had in his possession a copper plate, found in making a grave in this Church, which " had been covertly conveyed and fastened on the inside of the coffin of a priest, who was executed for the plot of 1680." The plate bore the foUowing inscription : — " E. D, Thomas Thweng de Heworth, coUegii Anglo Duaeeni sacerdos, post 15 annos in AngUcana missione transactos Eboraci oondemnatus, martyrio afl'ectus est Oct. die 23, anno Dom, 1680, Duobus falsis testibus ob crimen conspirationis tunc temporis cathoUcis malitiose impositum,'' York Castle, though extra-parochial, is in some measure connected with this parish, as the prisoners who died a natural death in the prison were usually interred in this Churchyard, for which one guinea was charged on each occasion, St, Miohael-Le-Belfey Chuech, Petergate. — This Church, which is a sort of adjunct to the Cathedral, is the largest and the very best and most elegant parochial Church in York, It is supposed to derive its appeUation of Le Belfry, whioh distinguishes it from St. Michael's, Ousegate, from standing near the turris companifera, or belfry of the Minster ; others think that it was partiy used as a belfry to the Cathedral. This Church is part of the ancient possessions of the Dean and Chapter of York, to whom it was confirmed by Pope Celestine LH., in 1149. The benefice is a Perpetual Curacy, of which the Dean and Chapter are the patrons and impropriators, and the Eev. Charles Eose the present Incumbent. The original Structure, which appears to have been erected soon after the Norman Conquest, was taken down in 1535, and the present Fabric was completed ten years afterwards. During the time that the choir of the Minster was being restored after the fire of 1839, this Church was used for the daily service of the Cathedral — the gallery being fitted up for the choir — and during the year 1853, the interior was re-floored, re-pewed, and otherwise restored, at a cost of about £1,350., raised by subscription. These restorations were effected from designs by Mr. George Fowler Jones, architect, of this City. It was re-opened for divine service on the 83rd December, 1853, on which occasion the sermon 650 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. was preached by his Grace the Archbishop of the province, when a liberal coUection was realized in aid of the restoration fund. This handsome uni form edifice, which is a good specimen of the late Perpendicular style, con sists of three aisles, the east end of the centre one, or nave, being used as a chancel. Formerly houses were built against the west end of the south aisle, but aU these, from hence to the top of Little Blake Street, have, within the last few years, been removed. (See page 476.) The exterior west end is made into three divisions by buttresses, the two centre ones being of un common size and in four gradations. In the lower story of the centre division is an arched doorway now fiUed up, above which rises a handsome pointed window of five lights, and this window is bounded by another arch of larger dimensions, the soffit being filled with plain but bold mouldings, which vanish in the buttresses. Above this is a cornice, and the apex is crowned with a small but neat bell turret, rebuilt a few years ago. The sUl of this window forms a weather cornice to the doorway beneath it. The west end of the north aisle exhibits a depressed pointed arch of four lights, and the window of the same end of the south aisle is fiUed up. It is to be regretted that the opening of the ancient western entrance and the restoration of the last men tioned window did not form part of the recent improvements ; the houses by which this end of the Church was disfigured having been removed, there seems no reason why the Church itself should retain its present unsightiy appearance. The south side of the structure, abutting on the street, has a very handsome appearance. It consists of six divisions made by sUght but tresses of three gradations, which do not rise to above two thirds of the height of the aisle, and are finished in taU square shafts, which terminate above the battlement in pinnacles ornamented with crocketing, and end in a finial. Attached to the first step of each buttress is a band, which is continued round the Church ; and the top is finished by a plain band and parapet, and over each buttress is a gargoyle. In each of the six divisions is a depressed pointed arched window of four lights ; the dado is enriched with square panels, enclosing quatrefoils, with shields bearing the arms of St. WiUiam, Archbishop Zouch, St. Peter, and the Sees of York and London. At the south west angle is a turret staircase, and in the first division from the west is an arched doorway. The north side is similar in form to the south, except that the dado is plain. The clerestory windows, twelve in number, which are barely observable in the street, are square headed, and of three lights each. The gargoyles, which are composed of monsters, human beings as weU as birds, serve to attach the shafts of the buttresses to the waUs of the aisles. The east end is similar to the west, if we except the absence of massy ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OP YOEK. 551 buttresses, the bounding arch of the centre window, and the turret and door. The interior is exceedingly elegant, and affords a good specimen of the archi tecture of the sixteenth century. The nave and chancel are divided from the aisles* by six depressed pointed arches, resting on clusters of four columns, united by octagonal capitals ; in the spandrils a quatrefoil in a circle between two trefoils, and beneath, an angel holding shields charged alternately with two swords and keys in saltire. The ceilings are flat, paneUed, without bosses. The altar piece, erected in 1714, is of oak, consisting of four Corin thian piUars, with the entablature, Eoyal Arms, &c. The neat oaken pews — single seats — exhibit some chaste carving. The pulpit and reading desk are new and elegant, the former was presented by John Eoper, Esq,, and the latter is the gift of John Clough, Esq,, both of CUfton, near York, In the gallery, which is at the west end of the Church, is a handsome organ, Drake teUs us that the organ of this Church in his time, the only one belonging to any parish Church in York, was removed here from the Cathedral Chapel of the Manor House ; " but was first had from the Church of Durham, as the arms upon it doth shew," The east window of the centre aisle, and that of the north aisle, are filled with ancient stained glass ; and there are consider able remains of that article in the windows of the south aisle. They exhibit full lengths figure of SS, Peter, Paul, John, Christopher, WiUiam the Arch bishop, Michael, &c. A stained glass window in the north aisle containing iUustrations of the life of Our Saviour in twelve medaUions, was presented in 1855, by Alderman WiUiam Hudson, of York. Among the monuments the foUowing are the most worthy of notice. A large one at the east end of the south aisle to E. Squire, Esq., who died in 1709, and PrisciUa his wife, who died in 1711. This monument consists of two costumic effigies resting their arms on urns, and over them two cherubs supporting a celestial crown, aU within an arched recess supported by two Corinthian pilasters. In the same aisle are tablets to E. Farrer, Esq., Lord Mayor in 1756 and 1769, who died in 1780, aged 76 ; and to A. Hunter, M.D., who died in 1809, aged 79. A neat tablet at the east end of the north aisle to the Eev. Wm. Eichardson, for more than fifty years minister of this Church, who died in 1831, aged 76. This clergyman was also sub-chanter of the Cathedral, and the compiler of the hymn book used in most of the York Churches, caUed the " York Psalm and Hymn Book." Near to the latter is a tablet to the Eev. W. Knight, of Banbury, Oxon., sub-chanter of the Cathedral, who died in 1739, aged 55. In this Church lie the remains of Gent, the historian, and his infant son. There was a chantry founded in 1473, by Sir Ealph Bulmer, Knt., to 553 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OP YOEK. pray for his soul at the altar of " Our Ladye" in this Church. Its yearly value was 49 s. Part of the townships of Clifton and Eawoliffe are within this parish. The ancient Church of St. WUfrid stood on the north side of Lendal, on or near the site occupied by the house now known as the Judge's Lodgings. St, Wilfrid is mentioned in the Domesday Survey, as an ancient Rectory prior to the Conquest ; but the fabric of the Church must have been ruinous at an early date, for in Queen Mary's time (1556) the Churchyard was sold to Richard Gold thorpe, who was Lord Mayor, for £10, At the union' of Churches in York, in 1585, the parish of St, Wilfrid was united to the Church of St, Michael le Belfry, but with the peculiar clause, that, " if ever the parishioners think fit to rebuild their Church, the parish shall remain as before," A few years ago when the floor of the Assembly Eooms, ad joining the site of this Church, was re-laid, several portions of an ancient porch, which, from the remains, must have been nearly as flne as that of St, Margaret's, were found near the base of some of the columns which decorate the interior. This porch had doubtless belonged to the Church of St. Wilfrid. St. Michael's Chuech, Low Ousegate, commonly caUed St. Michael's, Spurriergate, is an ancient Eectory, now in the patronage of the Crown, and incumbency of the Eev. Eobert Sutton. This Church, the original foundation of which is very ancient, was given by WiUiam the Conqueror, or, as Arch bishop Sharp was of opinion, by WiUiam Eufus, to the Abbey of St. Mary, at York. It contained one Chantry. The Edifice, which forms nearly a square, with a western tower, is in the Perpendicular style. According to Drake, the west end was almost entirely built of grit stone, and contains some blocks of an extraordinary size. In 1833, during the improvements consequent upon the erection of the new bridge across the Ouse, and in order to widen the approaches to it, several houses, which hid the south side of this Church from view, were removed, and that side of the edifice, as well as the end abut ting on Spurriergate, were taken down and rebuilt further back. The exterior of the Church consequently presents a modern appearance. The west end is approached by a small passage, called St. Michael's Lane, leading from Low Ousegate, half round the Church to Spurriergate, and from the great number of bones dug up here at various times, the houses in this lane seem to have been built on part of the ancient Churchyard. Two buttresses divide the west end of the structure into three divisions. The tower, which contains a peal of six beUs, is four stories in height, in the lower of which is a doorway, ecclesiastical edifices of YOEK. 553 having tho weather cornice finished with two grotesque heads. Above it is a pointed window of four lights ; there are smaller windows in the upper stories, and the top is finished with a string course and battlement. The south side of the tower exhibits a clock dial, which is illuminated during the winter months. The south and east sides of the Church have a plain and neat appearance, and contain very good windows ; and the north side is partly built against. The interior, which is very neatly fitted up, is divided into three aisles by four pointed arches and a half, which spring from columns formed of four cylinders, conjoined with leaved capitals. The half arch, which is at the east end, was occasioned by yielding seven feet of the former Church to Spurriergate, to widen the street, as already mentioned. At that time the whole of the interior was ornamented, the floor was raised, and the pews formed anew. The ceiling is flat, and in large panels. The altar piece is of oak, in three compartments, made by four composite pilasters, the centre compartment being finished with an arch, on which is a small figure of St. Michael. The pulpit is sexagonal, the font is very mean, and a small gallery at the west end contains an organ. The windows contain some stained glass, much mutilated, representing the history of St. John. The monuments are not numerous ; on the floor is a brass to the memory of WiUiam Hancock, of this City, who died in 1435 ; , and on the south side is a neat tablet to J. Wood, Esq., Lord Mayor, who died in 1704. At six o'clock every morning (Sundays excepted) a bell is rung in the tower of this Church, and after this beU has chimed, another is rung as many times as will correspond to the day of the month. The custom of ringing the first-mentioned bell is said to de rive its origin from the circumstance of a traveUer having lost his way in the forest that formerly surrounded York. After wandering about all night, he was rejoiced to hear the clock of St. Michael strike six, which at once told him where he was. To commemorate his deliverance from the perils of the night, he left a sum of money that the bell might thenceforward be rung at six every morning. The Curfew Bell, too, still continues to be tolled here at eight o'clock in the evening. St, Sampson's Chueoh, Church Street. — An ancient Rectory, formerly in the patronage of the Archdeacons of Cleveland until the reign of Edward III,, when it came to the Crown, In 1393 Richard II, granted the advow son to the Vicars Choral of the Cathedral, to be appropriated to their College, in return for their having undertaken to celebrate in this Church an anni versary obit for the King and Queen Anne, and to use other devotional exercises for the eternal repose of their souls. There were formerly three Chantries of this Church. From some unknown cause this living is not 4 b * 554 ecclesiastical edifices of yoek. mentioned in the King's Books, but it is now a Perpetual Curacy, in the gift of the Sub-Chanter and Vicars Choral, and incumbency of the Rev. Thomas Bayley. The alterations consequent upon the formation of the new market, in 1884, brought this Church more prominently into sight. Prior to these improvements, it stood almost completely hid at the confluence of Swinegate and a street called Girdlergate ; but the latter street was then lengthened, by being carried through the Churchyard into the Market Place, and Girdlergate and its continuation were together caUed Church Street. With the exception of the tower, the entire edifice has been recently restored, at a cost of about £3,000., raised by subscription, and it is now a neat commodious Church. The restoration was finished in 1848. The Fabric, the style of which is a mixture of the Decorated and the Perpendicular, consists of a nave (of which the east end forms the chancel), and sides aisles, with a large square tower of stone at the west end. This tower contains two beUs, and exhibits many marks of age and violence. Like other steeples in York, it suffered from the cannon baUs of the Parliamentarians, at the siege of York in 1644, and the perforation of one is stiU visible. The tower was originally three stories in height, but the upper story being in danger of falling, was taken down when the Church was restored. The angles of the tower are guarded by buttresses, and the west front has in the lower story a large pointed window of four lights. In the next story is a niche, with a pedestal and statue in pontifical attire, much decayed.* When the tower was perfect it was finished with a battlement. In the west end of each aisle is a pointed window of three lights. The north and south sides of the Church are aUke, being made into six divisions by buttresses of three gradations. In the westernmost division is a pointed doorway, and in each of the other divisions is a square-headed window of two lights. The east end of the Church is in three divisions, the roof of each rising to an apex ; in each division is a pointed window of three lights, the centre one being the largest. The interior is fitted up with open seats. The nave is separated from the aisles by six arches, supported by oc tangular columns, with similar capitals ; the tower opens into the nave ; the roofs are open, but plainly boarded over, and stained. The old roof of the * According to Alban Butler, author of the Lives of the Saints, St. Sampson, the patron of this Church, was born in Glamorganshire, about the year 496, and was con secrated Bishop in 520 by St. Dubritius, without being fixed in any particular .see. The name is sometimes written Sanxo, and tradition informs us that there was a Bishop of York of that name in the time of the Britons, and that a stone statue, which may yet be observed on the west side of the tower, is of him. This is the only Church in England dedicated to Sfc. Sampson, ecclesiastical edifices of YOEK, 555 nave was very rich and beautiful. The altar piece has fluted pilasters of the Ionic order, the pulpit and reading desk are new and very neat, the former being of very elegantly carved oak, and the organ is good. At the side of the south door is a large holy water basin, Drake mentions several coats of arms which were in the windows, but all the painted glass has been long re moved. There are now no monuments particularly worthy of notice, St, Savioue's Chuech, St. Saviourgate, was anciently styled the Church of St, Saviour, in Marisco (in the marsh, in allusion to its site having once been marshy ground,) It was founded before the Norman invasion, for we find that WiUiam I, gave it to the Abbey of St, Mary, At the Reformation the advowson came to the Crown, The living is a Rectory, and the present Rector is the Rev, Josiah Crofts, There were formerly seven Chantries in this Church, all of which were of considerable value ; likewise a guild or fra ternity of St, Martin, founded by letters patent from Henry VI, In 1585 the parishes of St, John, in Hungate, and St, Andrew, in St. Andrewgate (both mentioned in Domesday Book), were united to this Church and parish. The Church of St. Saviour, which is said to have been rebuilt out of the remains of a neighbouring Carmelite Convent (See page 510), was restored, heightened, and improved in 1843, at an expense of nearly £1,700., raised by subscription. It comprises a nave, side aisles, and west tower, which contains two bells. In the west front of the tower is a fine taU pointed window of three lights, with a transom, and there are small windows in the upper stories. The tower is supported at the angles by double but tresses, and the top is finished with a battiement, within which rises an angular roof, which is surmounted by a wooden cross, terminating in a weathercock. The west front of the aisles have each a pointed arched win dow of three lights. The north side of the Church, which faces the street to which the Church gives name, is made into three divisions by buttresses ; in the first from the west is a pointed doorway, and in each of the others two pointed windows. The south side is similar to the north ; and the aisles are furnished with a parapet. There are three windows at the east end ; the centre one consisting of _five, and those on each side, of four lights. Attached to this end of the Church is a vestry of modern erection, covered with compo, which is quite an excrescence. The interior is neatly furnished with single seats. The centre is divided from each of the side aisles by five pointed arches, supported by octagonal columns with capitals ; there are gaUeries extending nearly round three sides of the building ; and in one of them is a good organ. The tower is open to the nave, and the fine window which it contains, with its coloured bordering, is seen to great advantage. The roof, which is new, 556 ecclesiastical edifices op yoek. is waggon-headed, empanelled, and exhibits gilded mouldings and massy beams. The east end of the nave is fitted up as a chancel or sanctuary. The altar piece consists of four smaU fluted Ionic pilasters supporting a frieze ; the pulpit is neat ; the font is a large massy octangular basin, over which is a ponderous carved cover with a cross and dove. The churchwar dens' seats at the west end of the Church (for the united parishes), consist of two ancient carved stalls with moveable seats, and two modern stalls made after the same pattern. In the centre window at the east end is a mass of stained glass, arranged in beautiful disorder in 1801, and said to represent the legend of St. Anthony ; and there are some brUUant remains of the same article in the other windows at the same end. Within the rails of the Com munion table is a slab inscribed to the memory of Sir John and Lady Hewley, whose names have become so weU known in connection with a charitable institution in this City, and a long pending case arising out of it, before the Court of Chancery. Sir John died in 1697, aged 78, and " Dame Sarah Hewley his wife," died in 1710. In the south aisle is a neat tablet to Thomas Withers, M.D,, who died in 1809, aged 59 ; also a handsome white marble tablet to Andrew Perrott, M.D., who died in 1763, aged 49 ; and two mural tablets to the Wilkinson family. In the north aisle is a tablet to Colonel Roger Morris (and family), of the 47th regiment, who died in 1794, aged 68 ; one to Edward Smith, Esq., who died in 1799, in his 88th year ; and another to Thomas Atkinson and family. . Near Hungate on the east, on a spot long known as St. John's Green, but now covered with buUdings, stood the ancient Church qf St. John the Baptist. It was one of the great farms of the Dean and Chapter of York, and was valued at £6, per annum. The ancient Church qf St. Andrew is still partly in existence in the street to which it gives name. It too was one of the great farms of the Dean and Chapter, and an annual rent of two shilUngs for it was formerly appropriated to the revenues of that body. The building is of smaU dimensions and has undergone strange mutations, and been horribly desecrated ; "it has been now a house of prayer, and tJien a den of thieves," writes Baines ; and AUen, who wrote in 1839, after telling us that it had been at one time a common brothel, says " one part of it is now used as a stable, and the other as a free grammar school," The nave or body of the Church is at present used as a Sunday School for girls, and upon the site of the chancel the cottage has been erected. The Churchyard is partly built upon. Holy Teinity Chuech, King's Square, commonly caUed Christ Church, CoUiergate, was anciently styled "Ecclesia S. Trinitatis in aula vel curia ecclesiastical edifices of YOEK. 557 regis," and in Old English, " Sainct Trinitye in Conyng gartlie." Drake infers from the former title that the old courts of the Imperial Palace of the Em perors, which existed in Roman York, reached to this place. It was a Eec tory at one time, in the patronage of the family of Basyes, or Bascy, and in time it came to the NevUles, and was giveu in 1414, by Ealph Neville, Earl of Westmorland, to a Hospital he had founded at Wells, the Master of which is the present patron. The original endowment was very trifling. According to Torre, the Vicar was formerly discharged of all burdens, ordinary and ex traordinary, except the charge of finding " straw in winter, and green rushes in summer, for the strewing of the Church, according to the common use of Churches." The living is now a Discharged Vicarage, and the Incumbent is the Eev. Eichard Inman. In the time of Archbishop Sharp the minister had no income, and a Vicar had not been appointed since the Eeformation. The Church formeriy contained four Chantries. In Drake's time a ditch on one side of the Church was visible, and still retained the name of the King's Ditch. In 1768 the edifice was considerably reduced on the north side for the extension of the area required for a hay market ; and in 1830 it was cur tailed on the east side, in order to widen CoUiergate. The total removal of this edifice would add much to the public convenience, whilst there would be no loss of architectural beauty. The remains of the Churchyard, on the south side, has been so much raised through interments, as to cause a descent to the Church. The Building now consists of three aisles, with a low tower containing a peal of six bells. In the west front of the tower is a spacious window of five lights, and tho top is finished with a battlement. The win dows are of various periods. All the three roofs rise to plain gables. There were formerly some houses and a large brick porch against the south side of the Church, but they were removed a few years ago. The interior was repewed in 1880. The tower is open to the nave by a lofty pointed arch, resting on octagonal piers. The north aisle is separated from the nave by two pointed arches, supported by octagonal pillars without capitals ; and by two and a half arches on the south, with similar pillars. The ceilings of the nave and north aisle are panelled, but the south aisle has a common open roof. The sanctuary is plain, the pulpit is hexagonal, and the font is oc tagonal. A blue slab in the body of the Church bears an inscription to F. Alcock, Lord Mayor, who died in 1686, aged 65 ; and near it is a brass tablet to H, Tiveman, Lord Mayor, who died in 1673, aged 68. Holy Teinity Chuech, Micklegate. — There was a Church here, in con nexion with a religious house, from a very early period, and having from some unknown cause come to ruin about the period of the Conquest, Ralph de 558 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OP YOEK. PaganeU restored its services, renewed the endowment, and gave it to cer tain Monks, who thence took the title of the Prior and Convent of the Holy Trinity, (See page 506), At the dissolution the patronage came to the Crown. The living is a Discharged Vicarage, not mentioned in the King's Books. The parish of St. Nicholas was united to this, according to the statute, in 1585. The Rev, John Baines Graham, of Felkirk, near Wake field, is the present Vicar, but the Rev. Samuel Wainwright, the officiating Curate, receives all the emoluments, except the rents of a gaUery in the Church, which was erected at the cost of the present Vicar. " " This Church is now of small compass," says Drake, " but has been abundantly larger, as appears by the building. The steeple of it, being extremely ruinous, was blown down in 1651, and rebuilt at the charges of the parish."* The Fabric now consists of the nave only of the Conventual Church, and a small modern south aisle, with a square tower at the north west angle. The tower, which contains two bells, is strengthened .with buttresses ; in the middle of the north front is a smaU window, and in three sides of the. upper story is a circular headed window, within a circular arch supported by two dwarf columns, with square capitals and bases. The top is finished with a cornice and battlement, and the vane of the weathercock bears the date of 1781. The south side of the tower presents a highly curious and uncommon appearance. The lower story has a large arch, now filled up, and above it are the remains of an arcade of acutely pointed arches, springing from cir cular columns. It is thought probable that the front of this Church exhibited an extensive facade, some remains of which exist attached to the tower ; and the ornaments just noticed are supposed by some to have belonged to the interior of the edifice ; if so, the tower must have been considerably higher than at present. The north side of the edifice faces the street, from which it is separated by a Churchyard, weU fiUed with tombstones. This side exhibits a row of four arches, now fiUed up, which formerly divided the nave from the north aisle. In the westernmost arch is a porch, which formerly had a groined roof. The doorway is pointed, and the archivault of the arch has the flower moulding. The other divisions formed by these arches contain each a pointed window of three lights. At the north east angle of the buUding are the piers, upon which the arch was turned to the transept ; and adjoining and forming the easternmost angle of the Church are flve lofty piUars united, which originally supported the grand arches between the choir, * It must have been either a turret or a portion of the tower that was then blown down, as the structure is decidedly of an earUer date. SdCLESIASTICAL EDIPICES OF YOEK. 559 nave, and transepts. This side of the Church is Qnished with a cornice and battlement. The roof of the east end rises to a gable, and the east window, of three lights and simple interlacing arches, is modern. At the south eastern angle the pillars again occur, and the south side exhibits a plain modern aisle. This Church was restored and furnished with open seats in 1850, and the interior now presents a very neat appearance. The pillars which divide the nave from the aisle are octagonal, with plain capitals, from which rise bold but graceful arches. Above each capital is a triple column, which formerly supported the groined ceiling or trusses of the roof. There is a smaU gaUery at the west end, erected several years ago. The chancel is formed out of the east end of the nave, and at the same end of the Church, against the north waU, is the pulpit and a small organ. The large window over the Communion table was filled with elegantly stained glass, executed by Barnett, late of York, aud it, as well as the window in the easternmost division of the north side of the Church, and that in the east end of the south aisle, were presented by the Miss Cromptons, of Micklegate, formerly of Esholt HaU ; who also gave the munificent sum of £100. towards the res toration fund. The chancel window, which was erected as a tribute to the memory of the Miss Cromptons' parents, is of a geometrical pattern, and bears the following inscription : 1- In Sanctce. Trinitatis. Honorem. Paren tum. Memores. Dedicaverunt. Filia. Superstites. E. I. H. M. M. S. et. C. R. Crompton. Anno. Dom. MDGCCL. The Messrs, Atkinson, of York, were the architects for the restorations ; and the handsome cover of the Communion table was worked and presented by Miss Atkinson, sister to those gentiemen. The font is octagonal, on a similar base, and has an ancient carved cover surmounted by a dove, suspended over it. There are several mural tablets, but the one most particularly worthy of notice is that to the memory of John Burton, M.D., F.A.S, (author of the Monasticon Eboracense, and the Eccle siastical History of Yorkshire, folio, 1758), and Mary, his wife, the former died in January, 1771, aged 63, and the latter in October in the same year, aged 68, It represents a scroll of parchment, suspended from two books, bearing an inscription. Above the scroll is a vase entwined by a serpent, and suspended from it is a seal with the arms of the deceased author. The Miss Cromptons erected a neat tablet in memory of the Rev, Frederick Pope, late minister of this Church, who died in 1853, aged 58, The Churchyard is tastefuUy planted with shrubs. The Vicarage House, a good brick building erected in 1639, stands in the burial ground, near the east end of the Church, The ancient Church of St. Nicholas stood not far from Micklegate Bar, 560 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK, near a piece of ground caUed Toft Field, now swaUowed up in the spacious Station of the North Eastern EaUway, Chuech of the Holy Teinity, Goodramgate. — ^An ancient Eectory, formerly consisting of two medieties, the respective properties of the Priory of Durham, and the Archbishop of York ; but in the reign of Henry IH. they both became vested in the Archbishops, who stiU hold the patronage. In 1585 the Churches of St, Maurice, in Monkgate, and St, John del Pyke, in Uggleforth, were united to this Church and parish. The living is a Dis charged Eectory, of which the Rev, Henry John Raines, is the present Incumbent, There were formerly three Chantries in this Church, Drake says, " This Church bears on its outside many marks of great antiquity, stone of grit being wrought into the walls, some of which does but too plainly shew the extreme heat of the general conflagration in York," in 1187, The Fabric has an antique appearance, and consists of a nave and aisles, with a square western tower (containing four bells), and an attached Chapel on the south side. A few years ago the west end of the south aisle was restored, the west window of the tower (which is of five lights) renewed, and the south porch rebuUt. The east and west end windows, and those of the south aisle, have pointed arches ; those of the side Chapel and north side of the Church are square headed. The north side was entirely rebuilt about thirty years ago. Judging from the style of architecture, this Church has been built at dif ferent periods ; the body apparently is of the fourteenth century, while the south aisle is certainly no later than 1316, as appears by the Royal Arms ¦ of Henry III. and Eleanor ol Provence. The Chantry Chapel may perhaps belong to the reign of Eichard IL, and the tower is of the style prevalent in the middle of the sixteenth century. The interior is plain but neat. The tower is open to the nave by a lofty pointed arch, supported by octagonal piers. The nave is divided from the aisles by four pointed arches, resting on low octagonal columns, and the east end of the nave is used as a chancel. The ceiling of the body of the Church is flat and paneUed. The altar piece is plain, the pulpit is octagonal, and the font is an octagonal basin. The Chapel is separated from the south aisle by a spacious arch ; at each side are suspended shields of arms, viz : — a chevron between three chaplets, and a merchant's mark, with E. E. The fine window over the Communion table, which is very ancient, is filled with curiously stained glass in a very perfect state, and is much admired. It contains full length figures of Our Saviour, St, John, St. Christopher, St. George, and St. Anastasia, as well as several shields of arms and scriptural subjects. The east windows of the aisles are ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. 661 are also fiUed with stained glass. The windows of the south aisle contain three shields of arms, viz : — the arms of Henry HI., payley of six gu. and or. for Eleanor of Provence ; and gu. a cross moline or. In the windows of the Chapel are the arms of the famiUes of Percy, Eosse, Mowbray, and Vere. The fine state of preservation in which the stained glass remains, may be attributed to the circumstance of this Church standing out of the highway, and having no passage through the Churchyard. There are some very old monumental inscriptions in the Church, one so far back as 1367. There are two neat tablets to the memory of some members of the Friar family, and one erected by the parishioners to the late Rector, the Rev. J. DaUin, who died in 1838. Chuech of St. Maueice, without Monk Bar. — This was a Rectory of medieties belonging tb the two Prebends of Fridaythorpe and Fenton, until united in 1340 by Archbishop Walter de Grey. It was united with Holy Trinity, Goodramgate, agreeably to the statute in 1585, but the Church was retained, and Divine Service is still performed in it by the Incumbent of Holy Trinity. The living was a Discharged Vicarage, but is now a peculiar Cu racy. The Edifice, which is small, is very ancient and dUapidated, but the interior has been modernised within the last few years. It consists of two aisles, or a nave and south aisle ; and varies in style of architecture from the Norman to the Perpendicular, The west end, which rises to an apex, con tains a double circular window, divided by a smaU column, and on the ridge of the roof is a small turret of wood, containing two beUs. In the west end of the south aisle is a square window of four lights. The south porch is of brick, cemented, and within it a pointed doorway, the weather moulding resting on two heads. The east end exhibits two gables, and in each is a pointed window of three Ughts, The south side of the Church presents, be sides the porch, two square-headed windows of two lights, and beneath the westernmost one in the wall are two sepulchral slabs, with foliated crosses on them. The north side of the Church has two square windows of three lights, apparently of modern workmanship. The interior is plainly fitted up ; the aisles are divided by two large pointed arches, and one smaUer at the east end, aU resting on octangular colums, without bases or capitals. The monu ments are rather numerous. In the chancel are handsome tablets to John Clapham, Esq,, who died in 1765, aged 53 ; and G, Lutton, Esq,, who died in 1838, aged 53 years. The ancient Churches of St. John del Pike and St. Mary ad Valvas were situated within the Close of the Cathedral, The latter was taken down in 1365, when the Rectory was united to the neighbouring Church of St. John del Pike. 4 o 563 ecclesiastical edifices of yoek. St. Paul's Disteict Chuech, Holdgate Road, was erected in 1851, at a cost of about £3, 000.,. raised entirely by subscription, and consecrated by the Archbishop of York on the 3rd of January, 1856. It was built to supply accommodation to the populous district which surrounds it, and which has sprung up since the opening of the railway. It is locaUy situated in the parish of St. Mary, BishophiU the Younger. The living is a Perpetual Curacy, in the patronage of certain Trustees, and Incumbency of the Rev. WUUam Ashforth Cartledge. The Fabric, which is of stone, consists chiefly of three aisles rising to apexes at the east and west ends ; and is in the Early English style of architecture. The western entrance — a neatly moulded arched doorway, supported by cir cular piUars, and on each side of which is a blank arcade of acutely pointed arches — is approached by a flight of steps ; and above is a handsome circular window. This end of the nave has a projection, supported by buttresses at the angles, which terminate in pinnacles, and the apex is surmounted by a beU turret, crowned by a beautifuUy executed cross. The sides of the Church are made into six divisions by buttresses, in each of which, with the exception of the easternmost ones, is a tall pointed window of two lights ; and in the excepted divisions are moulded doorways. The east end of the nave or chancel presents a taU window of three lights. The chancel is finished with two pinnacles, and the apex is crowned by a handsome cross. The interior has a light and elegant appearance. The nave is divided from the aisles by five pointed arches on each side; these arches, which are neatly moulded, and are exceedingly graceful, spring from light clustered pillars. The chancel is small, and is marked by a flne pointed arch. The seats are single, and will accommodate about seven hundred persons ; and at the west end is a smaU gaUery, in which is a good organ. The architects of this elegant Uttie Church were the Messrs, Atkinson, of York, St, Thomas's Disteict Chuech, Lowther Street, was erected for the con venience of parties residing in the Groves and the adjoining district. The foundation stone was laid on the 8th of September, 1863, and it was conse crated and opened on Tuesday, the 33nd of August, 1854, by the Archbishop of York, The estimated cost of the building, including the site, was £3,370, By means of a Bazaar of fancy articles, held in York in the months of Oc tober and January (during the erection of the edifice), when nearly £800, was raised, and by the Uberal donations of some individuals, a sum of £1,000, has been set apart towards an endowment of the Church, One half of the seats are free, and the others are let, and the proceeds arising therefrom are applied towards the stipend of the officiating clergyman. The district assigned to ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. 563 this Church was formed out of the parishes of St. Maurice and St. Olave. The living is a Perpetual Curacy, in the patronage of the Archbishop, and Incumbency of the Rev. Richard Wilton, The Structure is cruciform in plan, having nave, transept, and chancel — the latter raised three steps above the body of the Church, and separated from it by a moulded and corbeUed arch, eighteen feet wide, and twenty-three feet high. The pulpit and reading desk are placed on each side of the chancel arch ; and the font is near the west entrance. The roofs are open and high pitched. The principals have arched and laminated braces, resting on moulded and foliated stone corbels. Externally the Church is plain, with single windows, trefoil-headed in the nave and west end ; double lights in the transepts and over the west door ; circular foliated windows in the transept gables ; and a three-light window at the east end, enclosed with three pointed quatrefoils, under a moulded and labelled arch. The west end is finished with a projecting beU gable, pierced for two bells ; the additional thickness of the wall aUowing for a deep-recessed porch doorway, being the principal entrance from Lowther Street. The bell gable is surmounted by a cross. The buttresses are plain and massive, to suit the style of the stone work, which is merely rough hammered work, with tooled dressings. The stone is from the CoUingham quarries, and the walls are lined with brick. The roofs are covered with Welsh slate. The wood work is deal, stained and varnished ; and the windows are glazed with Cathe dral glass, Mr, George Fowler Jones, of York, was the architect. The other places of worship in connection with the Established Church are the Chapel in the Bedern, which is described at page 484, and the new Church or Chapel on Lord Mayor's Walk, belonging to the Diocesan Training School, which will be noticed at a subsequent page of this volume, PROTESTANT DISSENTERS.— The places of worship unconnected with the Church of England in the City and County of York are numerous, and many of them are large, commodious, and handsome edifices. In the City of York there are Chapels belonging to the principal denonimations, except the Baptists, and to most of them school rooms are attached. Independent Chapel, Lendal. — This is a large brick building, opened for Divine Service on the 7th of November, 1816, previously to which the Independents occupied a little Chapel in Jubbergate, which was built in 1797 ; but owing to the smallness of that Chapel, together with the un pleasant situation in which it stood, as well as other circumstances, that body of Christians made little progress in York. However, in 1814 a plan was devised for the erection of a more commodious Chapel. Lendal was fixed upon as an eligible situation; the old Chapel was sold to the Unitarian 564 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIPICES OF YOEK. Baptists; and Lendal Chapel was erected at the expense of more than £3,000., for the accogimodation of one thousand persons. In a few years, under the pastoral care of the Eev. James Parsons, it was found necessary to enlarge it, so that it can now accommodate about 1,300 persons. In con sequence of the stiU increasing number of the attenders, it was resolved to build Salem Chapel, to which, on its completion, part of the congregation, with the Eev. James Parsons, removed. The present minister of Lendal Ohapel is the Rev. Thomas Raffles Hoskin. Salem Chapel, (Independent). — This edifice, which is of brick, and is situated in Spen Lane, facing St. Saviourgate, was erected in 1888-9. The front, which is approached by a flight of seven steps, has an Ionic portico or Logia supporting an attic, after the Temple of lUsseus at Athens ; and this portico, which exhibits two massy stone pillars, together with the two pro jecting wings, which complete the design of this front of the building, is done over with compo. The interior measures 81 feet in length, and 56 feet in breadth, and has very spacious and weU-arranged galleries. There is accom- dation for nearly 1700 persons, and beneath the Chapel is a large school room weU lighted and ventilated. The total cost of the erection, including the site, was £5,000. Messrs. Pritchett and Sons, of York, were the archi tects. The, congregation continues under the pastoral care of Rev. James Parsons. Wesleyan Mehodist Chapel, New Street.^Thia, the oldest Chapel in the City belonging to the Wesleyan body, is a large red brick building with stone mouldings, the foundation stone of which was laid on the 1st of January, 1805. The Methodists of York had a place of worship in the parish of St. Sampson prior to the year 1755 ; they afterwards assembled in a house in Peaseholme Green, and subsequentiy in Grape Lane Chapel, tUl the present building was erected. The edifice, which is of the Doric Order, is of a semi- octangular form, the centre terminating with a pediment, and the whole exterior presents a good appearance. The interior is very neatly fitted up, and is calculated to contain about 3,000 people. In the gallery is an organ. Adjoining the Chapel are two good houses for the ministers belonging to this Society.* The Wesleyan Chapel, Skeldergate, commonly called Albion Chapel, was built in 1816, and continued tQ be used as a place of worship by the Wesleyan • The Eev. Johu Wesley, the founder of Wesleyan Methodism, died in 1791, and is supposed in the course of his itinerancy to have travelled nearly 300,000 mUes, and to have preached 40,000 sermons. ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. 565 body until the opening of Wesley Chapel in Priory Street, in 18'56, when it was sold, and is now no longer used for religious purposes. Centenaey Chapel, St. Saviourgate. — This fine Chapel was erected to commemorate the Centenary of Wesleyan Methodism, and was opened on the 18th of July, 1840. The building is of brick, but the front presents a fine bold stone pediment, supported by four massy stone piUars, with capitals of the Doric Order. The entrances beneath this portico are approached by a flight of six steps. The interior is elegantly furnished, and it wiU accommo date about 3,000 people. Mr. James Simpson, of Leeds, was the architect. The organ cost £500. In the interior of the Chapel is a handsome marble tablet to the memory of Joseph Agar, Esq., Sheriff of York in 1813, who died January 13, 1847, aged 64 years. St. Geoege's Chapel, Walmgate. — This smaU Chapel was erected in 1836 to meet the increasing wants of the Wesleyan body, but since the erection of the Centenary Chapel it has been converted into a school. Wesley Chapel, Priory Street. — This is a handsome red brick building, with cut stone windows and dressings. Its foundation stone was laid on Easter Tuesday, the 10th of April, 1865, by Isaac Taylor, Esq., of the Mount, York, and it was opened on Friday, September 13, 1856. It occu pies a portion of Trinity Gardens, the site of the ancient Priory of the Holy Trinity, and stands on the east side of the new street recently formed through those gardens. (See page 507). This Chapel, which contains about 1,600 sittings, of which 850 are free for the p5or, has superseded the Albion Chapel, in Skeldergate, whioh was too smaU for the members of the Wesleyan body on that side of the water. The edifice is in two stories. The front has three entrances, and two windows in the lower story, and flve windows in the upper one. Each side contains fourteen windows, in two rows ; and in the rear are vestries, &o. The interior is weU fitted up, with galleries all round, thereby forming an oval ; and the general arrangement internally is in most respects identical with the Centenary Chapel. The Ughting of the building is accompUshed principaUy by a large central " sunlight," consisting of 164 jets of gas, arranged in four circles, in the form of an inverted cone, and suspended about four feet from the ceiling. The cost of buUding this Chapel was about £6,000., including the site, and the architect was Mr. James Simpson, of Leeds. There is a good organ in the Chapel. Teinity Chapel, Peckitt Street, Tower Street. — The Reform Wesleyan Methodists, by a section of whom this Chapel has been erected, separated from the old Conference body in the year 1860. During three years the members and congregation regularly met for reUgious worship in the Festival 566 bcclesiastioal edifices of yoek. Concert Eoom on Sundays, and on week day evenings, in a large room in St. Saviourgate, expressly built for the purpose. In the year 1853, disputes ran high on questions of ecclesiastical discipline and other matters, whioh led to a division among the members of this new Wesleyan offshoot ; in con sequence of which a considerable number seceded from the Concert Eoom, to the Lecture Hall, in Goodramgate, where they at present assemble for public worship. That section of the Wesleyan Eeformers which remained at the Concert Eoom ultimately adopted the ecclesiastical system of, and formed an union with, the Methodist New Connexion, the first and oldest branch of Eeformed Methodists, and who separated from the parent body soon after the death of the founder of Methodism. The new Connexion had not previously effected a permanent settiement in York, an attempt made for that purpose in the early part of their existence, having failed through the resolute opposition of the old Conference body. The union between the Methodist New Connexion and a part of the Wesleyan Eeformers of 1850, was effected in the month of April, 1855 ; and the foundation stone of Trinity Chapel, was laid in September of the same year. The Chapel — with a spacious school room and vestries — was finaUy opened for religious worship on the 37th of June, 1856. This building is a somewhat bold and original departure from the stereotyped style of Chapel building. Externally it is in the Byzantine style of architecture. The front is of red brick, interspersed with lines of white brick, and finished with ornamental brick and stone work. Internally it has a very ecclesiastical appearance, reminding one of the choir of a Cathedral. It is Ughted by thirty-six windows, from a clerestory sup ported by five piUars on each side. There is also, in the front elevation, a beautiful five light window of ornamented ground glass, divided by elegant stone piUars, surmounted by semicircular arches of brick, which spring from stone capitals. Over this window is a splendid rose window, fitted with ruby and white glass. The effect of these windows in front is very striking. The pewing is of stained wood varnished, after the fashion of modern Churches. There are light gaUeries on each side, supported by carved wooden brackets, resting on stone muUions — intended chiefly for the accommodation of the children of the Sunday schools in the morning, and as free sittings in the evening. The pulpit projects from a permanent platform, at the back of which there are pews for the choir, and space for an organ. The Chapel, with school premises, vestries, &c., adjoining, have been erected at a cost of about £3,000. The Chapel wiU accommodate 800 persons, and the school about 400 scholars ; 300 seats in the Chapel are free. Messrs. Atkinson, of York, were the architects. In addition to this Chapel and school, the mem- ecclesiastical edifices of YOEK. 667 bers of this denomination have recently erected a very neat school room near the Cemetery, in the Early Decorated style of architecture, capable of accom modating 300 scholars. The building is Ukewise used as a place of religious worship. Mr. E. Gould, of York, was the architect of the school. There is also another building occupied by this religious body as a school room and meeting-house, situated in Clarence Street, and formerly used as a lecture room by the Established Church. That section of the Wesleyan Reformers, who refused to unite with the Methodist New Connexion, now meet for public worship in 'the Lecture HaU, Goodramgate, and are contemplating an union with the Wesleyan Association, another offshoot from the old Methodist body, and who have a smaU Chapel in Lady Peckitt's Yard. Peimitive Methodist Chapel, Little Stonegate. — This edifice, caUed Ebenezer Chapel, is a large brick building, with a basement story of stone and stone dressings, erected in 1851, at a cost of about* £3,300., including the site of a house for the ministers. The exterior is plain, and the interior, which is fitted up in the usual style of Dissenting Chapels, wiU accomo date nearly two thousand persons. Messrs. Pritohett and Sons were the architects. Prior to the erection of this Chapel, the Primitive Methodists worshipped in a small building in Grape Lane, which had previously served as a meeting-house for the Baptists, the Countess of Huntingdon's Connexion, and the Methodist New Connexion successively. This latter building is now no longer used for the purposes of reUgion. Wesleyan Association Chapel, in Lady Peckitt's Yard, Fossgate. — This place of worship, which wUl seat about three hundred, was erected in 1839, Prior to that time the Association Methodists assembled in a house in St, Andrewgate, English Peesbyteeian Chapel, St. Saviourgate. — Lady Hewley, who founded an almshouse in York, is said to have contributed very liberaUy to the erection of this Chapel in 1693, The first regular Society of Noncon formists in York, of which we have any record, met at the house of Mr, Andrew Taylor, in Micklegate, an opulent merchant. The Rev, Ralph Ward, Chaplain to Sir John Hewley, was one of the ministers ejected by the Act of Uniformity, and he preached to this congregation for nearly thirty years. He died in 1693, and his son-in-law. Dr. Thomas Coulton, succeeded to the pastorate of the Presbyterian congregation at St. Saviourgate Chapel, and so continued for a period of nearly forty years. In 1775 the Rev. Newcombe Cappe, a pupil at the academy of Dr. Doddridge, at Northampton, was chosen co-pastor with Mr. Hotham, and on the death of the latter in 1756, he be- 568 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OP YOEK. came sole pastor. In 1793 the age of Mr. Cappe rendered it necessary that he should have assistance, and in that year the Rev. Charles WeUbeloved settied in York, as assistant minister, and became pastor in 1800, when Mr. Cappe died. Like his predecessor, Mr. Wellbeloved's increasing years obliged him to procure the assistance of the Rev. Henry Vaughan Palmer, who is now the officiating clergyman, though Mr. WeUbeloved is the pastor of the congregation. The ecclesiastical affairs of this body are conducted on the Presbyterian plan, but since the latter end of the last century, the doc trines preached to, and held by the persons attending the Chapel, are those of Unitarianism, and the place of worship is commonly caUed the Unitarian Chapel ; yet the present ministers of the Chapel inform us that it is not correct to caU it by that titie, though they aUow that the doctrines which they teach are Unitarian. In a communication which we have received from the Eev. C. WeUbeloved, he says, " My reUgious principles are those commonly caUed Unitarian ; but I do not caU myself a Unitarian Minister, because I do not consider it to be correct. I am a Dissenting Minister, and belong to the "EngUsh Presbyterians," as distinguished from the two bodies of Old Dis senters — Baptists and Independents." The Chapel, which is of red brick, is cruciform in shape, with a sUghtly raised centre. The interior is neat and weU lighted. The organ was presented by the late Miss Eawden, of York ; and it may be here noticed that this was the flrst Dissenting Chapel in York into which an organ was introduced. There are several mural tablets; amongst which is one to the memory of the Eev. Newcombe Cappe. Feiends' Meeting House, Friargate. — Prior to the year 1673 the Society of Friends, commonly caUed Quakers,* held their meetings at the house of Edward Nightingale, an eminent grocer of that persuasion in High Ousegate ; but in that year a smaU meeting house was -erected on the spot upon which now stand the very commodious premises of the Society, The body having considerably increased, the old buUding was enlarged nearly one-third, between fifty and sixty years ago ; and adjoining to that another building was erected in 1718, intended chiefly for the use of the quarterly meetings then held at York. This erection being found inconvenient, was nearly all taken down in 1816, when an enlarged and more commodious structure was commenced, • The " Society of Friends " originated about the year 1649, through the reUgious teachings of George Eox, a native of Drayton, in Leicestershire. Their popular desig nation of " Quakers " is said to have arisen from the circumstance of Fox having told a Magistrate before whom he was brought, " to tremble at the word of the Lord," as pro pounded by him. The Quakers believe in the Unity and Trinity of God, but they abjure all external rites, especially the Sacraments of Baptism, and the Lord's Supper. ecclesiastical edifices of YOEK, 669 which is capable of containing about 1,000 people. On the premises is a small Ubrary, containing a collection of books, written both in favour and against the principles of this pecuUar sect of Christians, The premises, which consist of two red brick buUdings, contiguous to each other, are devoid of ornament, but the interior is neat and well arranged. The principal en trance to the meeting house is in Castiegate, The Society's burial ground in Carr's Lane, BishophiU, is now closed. In it are interred the remains of Lindley Murray, the grammarian, and John Woolman, who first roused public attention in America to the crying evil of slavery. Besides the Chapel in Grape Lane, already mentioned, as having been from time to time in the possession of several distinct bodies or sects ; there is a small building at the bottom of the same lane, which was formerly the place of meeting of a sect called Sandemanians. This building is now con verted into a dwelling house ; but the second story of it is used as a Chapel by the Mormonites, or, as they are commonly called, the Latter Day Saints, The Swedenborgians meet for public worship in a large room in Good ramgate, CATHOLICS, — Catholicism has made rapid strides in the City and County of York, and indeed all through the Kingdom, of late years ; and its Churches and Chapels (some of them truly magnificent edifices) are now to be found in almost every town of consequence. Dr. Thomas Watson, of Lincoln, who was the last CathoUc Bishop consecrated in England previous to the reign of Queen Elizabeth, died in prison, in 1584, when the CathoUc Church in England was reduced to the state of a foreign mission under the Holy See, which placed the secular clergy under an archpriest (the Eev. G. BlackweU) with episcopal authority, which continued tiU 1633, when Dr. Bishop was consecrated Bishop of Chalcedon, and placed at the head of the English Catholics. He was succeeded in 1635 by Dr. Richard Smith, President of the English College at Rome, who died in 1655. The Roman Chapter ex ercised episcopal jurisdiction in England from this period tiU 1685, when Dr. John Leybourn was appointed Vicar ApostoUc; and in the following year England was divided into four districts, viz. — London, Western, Mid land, and Northern, and Vicars Apostolic, Bishops in partibus placed over them. In 1840 it was found necessary, from the great increase of Catholics in all parts of the Kingdom, to subdivide it into eight districts, viz. — London, Eastern, Western, Central, Lancashire, Yorkshire, Wales, and Northern. Thus it continued tiU the year 1850, when the present Pope (Pius IX.) ab rogated and annulled all previous arrangements, and for Vicars Apostolic appointed by himself and removable at his pleasure, substituted an ordinary 4 D 570 ecclesiastical edifices op yoek. hierarchy of Bishops, to be elected by the clergy of the respective Dioceses. By the same rescript the former eight districts were subdivided into thirteen Dioceses ; the titles of the Bishops were changed from Sees in Asia now ex tinct, to new Sees in this country ; and the Catholic Church in England was formed into an ecclesiastical Province, composed of an Archbishop, or Metro poUtan, and of twelve Bishops, his suffragans, who take their tities from the foUowing places; Westminster, Beverley, Birmingham, Clifton, Hexham, Liverpool, Newport, Northampton, Nottingham, Plymouth, Salford, Shrews bury, and Southwark. Westminster was constitued the Archiepiscopal See, and Dr. Nicholas Wiseman, Bishop of Melipotamus, and Vicar Apostolic of the London District, was raised to the dignity of a Cardinal, and appointed first Archbishop of Westminster, thus becoming Primate and Metropolitan of the Catholic Church in England. Dr. Briggs, the Bishop of TracHis, and Vicar Apostolic of the Yorkshire district, was translated from Trachis, to the new See of Beverley, by the same papal brief or rescript, on the 39th of September, 1860. The revival of the Catholic hierarchy was deemed, by a majority of the people of England, an insult to the Queen's Majesty, and a great "Papal Aggression;" and in con sequence of it the Kingdom was, for some months, in a state of great excite ment. Much has been said and written in defence as well as in condemnation of this proceeding on the part of the Pope aud the Catholic body, but with the merits or demerits of the measure, we, as simple chroniclers, have no concern beyond that of placing the circumstance on record in connexion with the Catholic ecclesiastical' establishments of York. The Parliament expressed their opposition to the measure by introducing and passing a biU, entitled " The Ecclesiastical Titles Assumption Act," which declared that the titles conferred " or pretended to be conferred " by any " briefs, rescripts, or letters apostoUcal, and aU and every the jurisdiction, authority, pre-eminence," thereby granted by the Pope, " are, and shall be deemed, unlawful and void." However this Act does not seem to have effected the new prelates in any way, for since the biU became law they have not been interfered with by any party, though we believe they have since publicly performed the duties of Bishops of their respective Sees, as weU as held synods, ordinations, &c. ; and their spiritual subjects do not hold them in less reverence, or their office in less respect, because an Act of ParUament has declared their titles unlawful and void. As has just been intimated, the Right Rev. John Briggs, D.D., under the prohibited titie of the " Bishop of Beverley," has the spiritual charge of the CathoUcs of Yorkshire, from whom he invariably receives the titie of " My EOOLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OP YOEK. 671 Lord ; " and he is assisted in the government of his " Diocese " by a Provost, and a Chapter consisting of ten Canons. The Church which we now pro ceed to describe, is used as a temporary Cathedral. Catholic Chuech op St. Geoege, St. George Street. — The Chapel in Little Blake Street having become inadequate to the requirements of the Catholics of York, in consequence of their increasing numbers, the present buUding was erected, and opened for Divine worship in the year 1850. It is a handsome structure, covering an area of 105 feet by 55 feet, exclusive of porch and sacristies, and is in the Early Decorated style of architecture. Externally it presents three gabled roofs, covering the nave and aisles re spectively, that of the nave being much higher than the aisles. There is also a chancel and south porch. The west front is in three divisions, which are marked by buttresses. In the centre division (being the west end of the nave) is a pointed doorway, with a deeply moulded arch springing from four smaU circular piUars, with flower- worked capitals; the weather cornice resting on a mitred head on one side, and a female coronetted head on the other. Above this doorway is a pointed window of three lights. In the west end of each of the aisles is a window of two Ughts, and the three gables of this front of the buUding are finished with a plain moulding, and crowned with neatly executed crosses. The south side is made into six divisions by buttresses, one of which contains a very neat porch, with a fine moulded doorway, the apex being surmounted with a cross ; and in the other divisions are good windows of two lights, except the easternmost one, which is of three lights. In the second buttress from the east end is a niche containing a spirited figure of the patron, St. George, clothed in armour, with the point of his sword piercing the dragon's head. The east end of the edifice presents two gables only, the vestries being at that end of the north aisle. The east or chancel window, which is large and handsome, consists of four lights, and the window in the east end of the south aisle is of three lights. The apexes of the roof at the east end are crowned with crosses ; and over the junction of the nave and chancel is a double belfry, consisting of double-moulded arches, with a quatrefoil opening over them, surmounted by a high pitched gable, and richly floriated cross, representing the Crucifixion of Our Lord. The top of this cross is sixty-five feet -from the ground, and the belfry contains two good beUs. The whole of the windows in the east, west, and south sides have weather mouldings, resting on elegantly carved heads of bishops, nuns, saints, &c. ; but those on the north side — each of which are of two Ughts — ' have not this ornament. The entire building is finished with a plain mould ing. The interior is plainly but neatly furnished with open seats, &c. The 573 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OF YOEK. nave is divided from the aisles by five graceful arches on each side, sjiringing from octangular columns, with moulded capitals. The roof is high pitched and open ; and there is a small gallery at the west end of the nave, in whioh is the organ. The chancel is divided from the nave by an archway, with hood moulds and carved heads, supported upon triple clustered pUlars ; and in this arch is a carved open rood screen of wood, on the top of which is a large and well executed representation of the Crucifixion of Our Redeemer (a piece of ancient sculpture brought from the continent), with carved figures of the Blessed Virgin and St. John the Evangelist on either side. The chancel is very elegantly and chastely adorned. The altar is of Caen stone, highly enriched with carving and gUding. It is made into three divisions by shields — on the centre one of which is a carved representation of the Crucifixion; and the subjects of the others are Christ carrying the Cross, and his Entombment. The tabernacle and the reredos, or screen behind the altar, are extremely rich in decoration. The chancel ceUing is arched in wood, and divided into seventy-two panels by wood mouldings; the whole is enriched by painting and gilding. The lamp and candelabra are handsome ; on the right side of the altar is a piscina, and on the left a locker. The east window is filled with stained glass by Hardman, of Birmingham, and con tains figures of Our Saviour, the Blessed Virgin, St, Mary Magdalen, St, George slaying the Dragon, Christ raising Lazarus to Life, &c. At the east end of the south aisle,' and divided from the chancel by an arch, in which is an open screen, is the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin, generally called the Lady Chapel. This presents an appearance similar to the chancel just de scribed. It is divided from the aisle by a stone scfeen, of Gothic design, whioh is extreniely beautiful ; and in the upper part of which is a highly- wrought niche, with most elaborate tabernacle work, containing a statuette of the Blessed Virgin and Divine Child. The Caen stone altar and reredos are splendidly sculptured. The former is in four parts, divided by highly- poUshed marble pillars, and contain^ representations of the Blessed Virgin and Infant Savibur, and St. Joseph, with angels bearing scrolls ; and in the latter are niches containing sculptures of the Annunciation, with vases and lilies. The stained glass window over this altar is by Messrs. Barnett, late of Yorkj and ambtigst the subjects represented on it, are the Crucifixion and the Virgin and Child. The other window in this Chapel is also filled with stained glass by the same artists, and contains several subjects from the Ufe of Oilr Lord. The silver lamp, which is suspended before the altaf, is very elegant; and the piscina is in the usual place. The west window of the south aisle is also adorned with stained glass (this and the last noticed one ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OP YOEK. 573 being memorial windows), but all the other windows are glazed with Cathe dral glass, having coloured borders. The pulpit, which is smaU, is of stone, and the font is octagonal— four of the sides having symbolical carvings. The original cost of the sheU of the building was £3,300., and that of the site was £1,350. : but several large sums have since been expended upon it from time to time, Messrs, Joseph and Charles Hansom were the architects of the building, and Mr, Ralph Weatherley, of York, was the buUder, The design of the screen, altar, and reredos of the Lady Chapel~ (being a more recent work), is from the pencil Of Mr. Charles Hansom. Adjoining the Church are large schools, whioh will be noticed at a subsequent page ; and at the north west angle of the Cliurch a commodious Presbytery, or residence for the priests, was erected in 1866. Chapel of St. Wilfeid, lAttle Blake Street. — This Chapel, which was built in 1803, wUl accommodate about seven hundred people. There . is nothing particularly worthy of notice, except the full-length frescoes in and about the sanctuary. Those within the altar rails represent the Crucifixion, with the figures of the Blessed Virgin, St. John, and St. Mary Magdalen (in the centre), and the four Evangelists on the sides. Over the vestry doors are full-lengths of St. Peter and St. Paul, and some allegorical subjects. The ceiling of the sanctuary is richly decorated. There is a commodious gaUery at the west end, and on the south side is a small gallery or loft for the organ and choir. Annexed to this Chapel is the Presbytery ; and at the rear of a house nearly opposite to the latter, is a large room (now a masonic lodge), which had been used as a place of worship by the* Catholics, previous to the erection of the present Chapel. Tradition points to an upper room in that house as a place where the rites of the Catholic Church were celebrated at a period in history when Catholicity in this country lay trodden to the ground ; when its professors skulked from the public gaze like timorous slaves, and for the practice of their reUgion assembled in back lanes, in garrets, and in secret chambers. This is one of the last of the garret rooms which carry us back to the times when our fathers were driven by persecution to serve God in secrecy and fear. York is the place of residence of the spiritual chief of the CathoUcs of Yorkshire-^Dr. Briggs — ^and the Catholic clergy of the City are the Very Rev. Joseph Render, V.G., and Provost of the Diocese, the Rev. Joseph Geary, and the Rev. James Hostage.* In connexion with the Catholics of York and its vicinity, a branch of the * It ifaay b6 observed that before the Eeformation, and for soUie time after, priests enjoyed the knightly title of " Sir." 574 ECCLESIASTICAL EDIFICES OP YOEK. charitable fraternity caUed the Society qf St. Vincent de Paul was estabUshed in the beginning of the year 1853, and united with the parent Society in Paris. From the annual reports of the York Conference of the Society we learn that the brethren visit above one hundred poor families annuaUy — some of them twice and jome three times a week — averaging about 13,000 visits every year. Of the children belonging to those famUies, about two hundred are not only kept from begging, but in a great measure educated, fed, clothed, and lodged by the Conference, and situations are provided for such of them as are fit to go into service. The Society derives its support from the donations and subscriptions of its members and friends. There is also a branch of another brotherhood in connexion with the Catholic body of York, caUed the Young Men's Society, which was estabUshed here, on the 6th of August, 1854, by the founder of the fraternity, the Rev. Dr. O'Brien, of AU Hallows Missionary CoUege, Dublin, aided by the clergy of the City. From the pubUshed rules we learn that the object of this Society is, " to put down sin and falsehood, and to extend virtue, inteUigence, truth, and brotherly love," by means of prayer, good example, lectures, spiritual reading, a regular observance of the Sacraments, the practice of aU Christian virtues, particularly that of charity, by discountenancing sin of aU kinds, and by labouring for the extension of the Society. The greater part of this body have been formed into a Temperance Guild. NuNNEEY OE Convent of St. Maey. — This estabUshment is situated without Micklegate Bar, and is a large handsome red brick structure, at the rear of which are extensive gardens. A building near the site of the present appears to have been purchased in 1686, for the estabUshment of a boarding school for young ladies of the Catholic religion. Since that time various alterations and additions have been made, both to the buildings and the discipUne observed within them. To it was subsequentiy united a Convent of Nuns, or a community of religious, caUed the Institute of Religious Ladies ; who, having quitted the world, devote themselves entirely to the instruction of youth. The daughters of the Catholic nobility, gentry, and respectable classes are educated within these waUs. For some years past the number of boarders has not exceeded fifty, but in former years it was upwards of eighty. In 1844 a large addition was made to the size of the estabUshment, by the erection of an extensive building containing spacious school rooms. Previous to the opening of the schools attached to St. George's Church, a number of poor girls were here taught by the nuns gratuitously ; but their place has since been supplied by a school for externs of the middle class, and a poor PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF YOEK. 675 school for infants. The female schools adjoining the just mentioned Church are stiU conducted by the Sisters of this Community. The buUdings of the Convent, Schools, &c., comprise a square, in the centre of which is a small court yard. The internal arrangement of the buUding is admirable, and the school rooms are perhaps unequalled in the Kingdom for size, ventUation, &c. The Chapel, which is cruciform in shape, is splendidly furnished and deco rated, and the intersection is surmounted by an elegant dome, supported by eight fluted columns. The altar, tabernacle, &c,, are rich in the extreme, and there are several excellent paintings. In the screen work is some very fine carving ; the staUs for the nuns range on both sides of the Chapel ; the silver lamp of the sanctuary is of the most chaste design ; and the organ stands on a smaU gallery at the west end. One of the transepts is elegantly fitted up as the Lady Chapel, and over the altar is a beautiful statuette of the Blessed Virgin, whilst in the corresponding transept is a very elegant image of St, Joseph, The gardens are arranged with much taste, and the play ground is extensive. Adjoining the gardens is the burial place of the sisterhood, and in it is a neat oratory. Mrs. Brown is the present Superioress of the Con vent, or, as she is usually styled by the members of her community, and indeed, by the CathoUcs in general, the " Reverend Mother." The present Chaplain to the Convent is the Eev. J. Thompson. The Catholic Schools of York wiU be noticed at subsequent pages. PUBLIC SCHOOLS.— St. Peter's Royal Grammar School^As we have seen at page 516, the site and lands of the dissolved Hospital of St. Mary Magdalen, in Bootham, were, by a grant of PhUip and Mary, appropriated to the maintenance of a free grammar school, under the goverment of the Dean and Chapter of the Cathedral of York;, and the rectorial tithes of Stil- Ungfleet were subsequently given for the same purpose. In addition to this endowment, Eobert DaUison, Chanter of the Cathedral Church of Lincoln, granted to the Dean and Chapter of York an annuity of four pounds, issuing out of the Manor of Hartesholm, in the County of Lincoln, which was appro priated to this school. The Dean and Chapter being the trustees, always appoint the master, and the school is frequentiy caUed the Cathedral (grammar School. The income of the master has been considerably augmented by purchasing property, with the fines paid on the renewal of certain lands devoted to the purpose. In 1838 the school was placed under the existing regulations. The number of free scholars was formerly about twenty-three but of late years the number has been considerably reduced. There are now eight foundation scholars, who receive board, lodging, and education, free of 576 PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF YOEK. expense for four years ; and there are also eight/r«« scholars, who are educated free for the same period. The foundation scholars and the free boys are chosen at an examination, held in June in each year, for their proficiency in certain studies; and an exhibition or annual stipend of £50. for three years is annuaUy awarded to the best qualified pupU, provided he becomes a student in either of the Universities of Oxford, Cambridge, Durham, or DubUn. The yearly examination is conducted by a graduate of one of the Universities, ap pointed by the Dean and Chapter ; every boy who has been in the school one year, and is under, fifteen years of age, is eligible for the scholarships and the exhibition, which are awarded solely on the ground of merit. This school possesses likewise the privilege of sending a boy every five years to Aberford, to contend for Lady Betty Hastings's exhibition, which is worth about £100. a year for five years. The boys not on the foundation pay a tuition fee of £10., and £45. iu addition is the charge for board and lodging. The buUding will accomodate eighty boarders, and about two hundred scholars altogether. The head-master is the Eev. WiUiam Hey, M.A., late FeUow of St. John's CoUege, Cambridge, and a Canon of the Cathedral of York; the second master is the Rev. Thomas Richardson. This school was formerly held in the desecrated Church of St, Andrew, from which it was removed to the building in the Minster Yard, now used as a School of Art ; and finally, in 1844, the Proprietary or Collegiate School, which was the property of a Joint Stock Company, was purchased by the Dean and Chapter for St, Peter's School, and the two schools were united in the Midsummer of that year. The School Premises are well situated in Bootham, and the building, which was erected in 1837-8, is a handsome structure in tbe Tudor style; the front being of cut stone, from the quarries of Bramham Moor, and the remainder of brick, with cut stone dressings. The design of the building is very ele gant, and its external appearance has a very pleasing effect. It comprises a central haU, class rooms, library, and boarding house. The centre has a deeply-moulded doorway, over which is a balustrade or screen of perforated quatrefoUs, above which is a fine bay window, surmounted by a perforated balustrade. At each side of the door and window, or rather the angles of this central portion of the design, rise two elegant pUlars, ornamented with carved heads, shields, niches, and pedestals, terminating in turrets, between which the front rakes up to a gable. On each side of this centre is a range of buildings, and at the left side is a large wing, and to carry out the design of the architect, a corresponding wing wiU probably be built on the right side at a future day. There is a fine bay window at the back of the centre por tion of the building. The grounds extend over four acres. PUBLIC SCHOOLS OP YOEK, 577 Holgate's Free Grammar School, Ogleforth. — This school was erected and endowed within the Close of the Cathedra], by Robert Holgate, D.D., Arch bishop of York, by letters patent granted by King Henry VIIL, on the 34th of October, 1546; and the master was bound to attend daily, "to teach grammar and godly learning, freely, without taking'any stipend or wages." At the time the Commissioners made their report on this charity, the property of the school was valued at upwards of £860. per annum ; and there were only seventeen boys on the foundation. This, together with the other cha rities of Archbishop Holgate, having been shamefuUy mismanaged and neg lected, are now undergoing enquiry in the Court of Chancery. The school is held in a commodious room in a yard in the above-named street. The Eev. Robert Daniel, B.D,, is the present master. The York Diocesan School Society was established for the promotion of a system of religious and useful education throughout the Diocese of York, in the principles of the Church of England, and in union with the National So ciety in London, The Society consists of members of the Church of England, paying an annual subscription to the objects of the Society, and of donors of £10, and upwards. The Lord Archbishop of the Diocese is ex-officio Presi dent, and the three Archdeacons of the Diocese are ex-officio Vice-Presidents of the Society, The list of Vice-Presidents includes the name of the chief nobility and gentry of the County, The York and Ripon Diocesan Training Institution, having for its object the training of schoolmasters and schoolmistresses for the National Schools, and also the Yorkshire Yeoman School, were established in .furtherance of the objects of the Diocesan School Society, The training school for masters is under the direction of a Principal, a Vice-Principal, and under-masters. Pupils are either ordinary, being such as in order to become national school masters, desire to submit themselves to the appointed course of training; or extra-ordinary, being such as already having charge, or being engaged to take charge of a school in union with the Diocesan Society, desire to avail them selves of the advantages which the institution affords for their improvement. Except in cases where it may be otherwise determined by the committee of management, no one is to commence residence in the training school before the age of seventeen, or after the twenty-fifth year of his age. The full course of training extends over three years, but suitable schools, according to the qualifications of each, will be sought for students whose circumstances do not permit them to complete the full course. Ordinary pupils are all resident in the training school, and the terms are very moderate, being £35, per annum, including board and lodging, medical attendance, books and stationery, Ex- 4 E 678 PUBLIC SCHOOLS op YOEK. tra-ordinary pupils, if resident within the institution, pay for their board, &c., 13s. per week; if non-resident, 6s. per week. There is accommodation for fifty-five pupUs. Attached to this institution is a Day School for boys over seven years of age, the terms for which are one guinea per quarter, payable in advance. Latin and-modern languages, if required, to be paid for as extras. The present Principal of the institution for schoolmasters is the Rev, Hugh G, Robinson, M,A, ; and the Rev, Henry Bramley is the Vice-Principal, The age of admission to the female training institution is seventeen; the the terms of admission, including board and lodging, are £18. per annum, paid quarterly in advance. PupUs extra-ordinary, if resident within the in stitution, are charged 10s. 6d. per week; if non-resident, 4s. per week. There is accommodation for thirty pupUs. Attached to the institution is a middle school and a day school for giris, the latter of which serves as a prac tising school for the pupUs of the training school. The York Yeoman School, which is under the same superintendence as the Training School, owes its estabUshment to a suggestion made by the present Earl of CarUsle in 1846, and in the foUowing year the school was founded, for the purpose of affording a good education on moderate terms to the sons of the middle or yeoman class. The terms, including board, lodging, and medical attendance, are twenty-one guineas per annum ; pupUs are admissible at the age of seven years ; and there is accommodation for seventy-five pupils. The committee of management of the schools includes the Archbishop of York, the Bishop of Ripon, the Deans and Archdeacons of the two Dioceses, the Earl of CarUsle, Lord Feversham, Lord Wenlock, Sir J. V. B. Johnstone, Bart., tbe Hon. P. Dawnay, and several distingmshed Clergymen. The edifice of the Training School for males forms an extensive pile, on Lord Mayor's Walk, erected in 1846, by pubUc subscription, at a cost of about £16,000. The style of architecture is late or domestic Gothic. Ex teriorly it presents a centre and two wings, and it consists of a house for the Principal, rooms for the Vice-Principal and five masters, haU, class rooms, library, &c. The whole pUe is constructed of brick, with cut stone dressings. The front or centre is supported by four half piUars, terminating in pinnacles ; and over the entrance is a bay or oriel window. The Yeoman School oc cupies a Separate building, on a line with and at the north-west end of the training institution. It was erected also in 1846, in the same style as the training school; and is a range of buUdings, both ends of which project and exhibit gables. The Chapel is buUt of hammer-dressed stones, with cut stone facings, and the style of the architecture is the Decorated. The sides are made into five divisions by buttresses, in each of which (except PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF YOEK. 679 those containing the doorways) is a window of two lights. The chancel win dow is of five lights, and the window at the west end is of three lights. The interior is very neatiy and appropriately furnished with open seats. The roof is open, the spandrils resting on corbels, on which are carved angels holding musical instruments. The floor of the chancel is T of great banquets being given within them, but from the terms • pantry and bntteiy,' which we found associated with the GuUd HaU, is is ekan that it was used for oflier purposes than those of the GuUd, and there is no doubt the great entertmmnents of the chief magistrates were there given." Mi. Davis referred to the account of certain feastings which took place in S^touba, 1457, when the Ead of Northumberland was in York, and then obserred that in 155 S they found the Lord Mayor, Recorder, and other mu nicipal anflioiities miting in solemn condave in their CouncU Chamber on Ouse Bridge, agreezog, in consequence of the existing dearth, to reduce the nnmb« of tbeir sumptuous feastings, amongst which were certain dinners givoi on specified days to flie ladies, wbo, instead, were only to have a cup of wioe after attending the Lady Mayoress to the Minster. The lecturer nest i^ned to tbe price of provisions in tiiat year, as fixed by the civic powers, stating fliat a capon could be purchased for lOd., a roasting pig for lOd-, ax eggs for Id., a partridge 3d., *c. From tiie same authority we leam Uuit it was contanplated at one time to bnUd tiie Mansion House on tbe site of die large house at flie upper end of Blake, adjoining the Theatre, but the parties in possession refused to give up tiie lease. The Judgts- House, LendaL— This buUding was erected by Dr. Wintring ham, an eminent physician of York (who died in 1748), on the site of the ancient Church, or part of die Chuicbyard, of St. WUfrid's parish. In diggmg TOPOGEAPHY OP YOEK. 619 the foundations of the house several cart-loads of human bones were dis covered and removed. After the death of Dr. Wintringham, this residence was occupied by another celebrated physician. Dr. Dealtry, or Dawtry, who died in 1778. Part of the kitchen floor originally consisted of sculptured tomb-stones, the remains of the ancient grave yard. The place of residence for the Judges of Assize was formerly in a court in Coney Street, opposite the George Inn, which being very inconvenient for the purpose, the County Magistrates purchased the present residence in 1806, out of the County rates, and appropriated it to the use of the Judges. It is a large brick mansion, vrith a double flight of stone steps in front, and before it a smaU court, with trees and shrubs. The exterior has a pleasing effect, although without any pretension to architectural display. Assembly Rooms, Blake Street. — This magnificent structure was designed by the Earl of Burlington, the architect of the Mansion House, and the foundation stone of the building was laid by the Lord Mayor on the 1st of March, 1780. The cost of the site and building (about £5,000.) was raised by subscription shares of £35. each, or double shares of £50. each ; conse quently the property belongs to a select number of shareholders, and the rooms are only used for the concerts and baUs of the nobUity and gentry of the City and County. The front entrance was originaUy by an ascent of a few steps, under a portico resting upon light stone columns, and surmounted by balustrades ; but in 1838 a new and elegant facade was erected, from the designs of Messrs. Pritchett and Sons, of York. It consists of a centre and wings, sUghtly marked ; the former is wholly occupied by a handsome por tico of four Ionic columns, with a pediment. Under this portico is a spacious doorway with a linteUed head. The wings are recessed with a half Ionic column on each side of a window, and this portion of the buUding is flnished with a balustrade. The vestibule or grand entrance is 33 feet by 31, and 31 feet high : on each side of it is another vestibule, and behind are rooms and offices used for domestic purposes. Behind the right vestibule is a circular apartment, 31 feet in diameter, with a cupola, 45 feet in height. The Egyptian Hall, or grand Assembly Room, is a magniflcent apartment, 113 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 40 feet high. This room is from a design of the celebrated PaUadio; the lower part is of the Corinthian Order; and the waU above is supported by forty-four elegant columns and capitals (six teen on each side of the room, and six at each' end), ornamented with a beautiful cornice. The upper part of the buUding is of the Composite Order, adorned with festoons of oak leaves and acorns. The room is lighted by forty-four windows, which project inward from the lower side waUs, and are ggO TOPOGEAPHY OP YOEK. supported by the same number of pilasters. Behind the columns a passage runs round the room, and in the walls of it are forty-five recesses. Dr. Smollett, in the second volume of his " Expedition of Humphrey CUnker," pays this room the foUowing compliment : — " The Assembly Room seems to me to have been built upon a design of PaUadio, and might be converted into an elegant place of worship ; but it is indifferently contrived for that sort of idolatry which is performed in it at present ; the grandeur of the fane gives a diminutive effect to the little painted divinities that are adored in it ; and the company, on a ball night, must look like an assembly of fantastic fairies revelUng by moonlight among the columns of a Grecian Temple." Adjoining this is the lesser assembly room, 66 feet by 33, and 33 feet high, and which is always used On occasions when the larger one is not required. It is fitted up with requisite accommodations for the purpose, and at the end of it is a.smaU organ, which, however, is never used. The ceiling is orna mented in stucco. For upwards of a century these rooms were lighted with wax candles, fixed in large glass chandeliers, which were suspended from the top of the rooms. The great facilities afforded of late years by the railways to parties desirous of attending the large baUs, annuaUy given by the York shire Hunt Club and the Yeomanry Cavalry, &c., have caused the directors to give their attention to the more efficient lighting and ventilating the rooms. Within the last few years the glass chandeliers have been removed from the large room, and a continued series of gas lights arranged above the cornice, as also a row of projecting gas lights, with glass globes, round the lower part of the room. This extremely briUiant illuminating power gives to the room an amount of light far beyond conception, and renders it a most beautiful spectacle. Three large ventUators have also been placed in the roof of the room, the effect of which is to render it comparatively cool when containing from eight to nine hundred persons. The building stands near the site of the ancient parish Church of St. Wilfrid. A few years ago, when the floor of the large room was relaid, several portions of an ancient porch, which from the remains must have been nearly as flne as that of St. Margaret's Churoh, York, were found near the base of some of the columns which decorate the room ; and which, in aU probabUity, belonged to St WUfrid's Church. A large circular stone well, supposed to be of Saxon construction, was also dis covered in the centre of the same room, and from it the building is suppUed with very flne water. The assemblies at these rooms are now very weU attended, though they were much exceeded by those of the close of the last century, when York was the metropolis of the north, and the centre of attraction. TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. 631 Festival Concert Room, Museum Street. — The Assembly Rooms not being sufficiently large for the great audiences that usually .attended the grand evening concerts of the Yorkshire Musical Festivals, it was resolved to erect a new concert room, so that the public may be well accommodated, and those charities, to whose benefit the funds of the festivals were appropriated, might not continue to suffer loss. The foundation stone of the building was laid on the 38th of July, 1834, by the Rt. Hon. WUUam Dunslay, Lord Mayor, and the cost of the erection was defrayed chiefly out of the proceeds of the festival of the preceding year. The structure is spacious and elegant, and stands behind the Assembly Room, with which it is connected by a pair of folding doors, which are thrown open on extraordinary occasions. The in ternal dimensions of the room are 95 feet in length, 60 feet in breadth, and 45 feet in height, exclusive of the orchestra, which occupies a semi-circular recess at one end, and wiU accommodate 144 performers. A gaUery 30 feet deep fiUs the other end of the room. When filled, the room wUl hold about 3,000 persons, without the orchestra. The walls are coloured a pale straw tint, and at intervals occur Ionic pilasters, which support a superb frieze, modeUed after the antique, by Rossi. The ceiling is designed in panels, and has a tasteful appearance. A cast of the Apollo stands upon the landing of the gaUery steps. Since the discontinuance of the musical festivals, this room has chiefly been used for concerts, baUs, and public meetings. The entire property of the room is vested in the hands of trustees for the benefit of the York County Hospital, and the Infirmaries of Leeds, HuU, and Sheffield. In the month of October, 1866, a three days' Musical Festival took place in this Concert Room, it being at that time more than twenty years since a musical entertainment had been given in York on the same scale ; and though it was not equal to those great festivals held in the Cathedral in former days, and which are noticed at page 439 of this volume, yet such arrangements were made as afforded an unusual treat to the music loving public. The entertainments were under the patronage of the Lord Mayor of the City, and several of the nobility and gentry of the County, and the Oratorios produced were The Creation, The Messiah, and Eli. The orchestra consisted of about two hundred persons, and a powerful organ was erected for the occasion. The profits of the second day's Oratorio, upwards of £30., were appropriated in aid of the York County Hospital. The York Choral Society, an Association of amateurs, are tenants of the Festival Concert Room for a specified number of evenings in the year, when their concerts take place. The musical performances of this Society have for several years been amongst the most deUghtful amusements connected with the City. 633 TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. The Society was instituted in 1833, and its sole object is the performance of vocal and instrumental music. Meetings for practice take place once a week, and four public concerts are given in each year. Every member sub scribing 5s. per ann., receives two tickets for each concert; and subscribers of 10s. per ann. have four tickets for each concert. Performing members do not pay anything, and they receive two tickets each for every concert. The concerts are of a mixed character — one part being sacred and the other mis- ceUaneous — and professional talent, vocal and instrumental, is engaged ac cording to circumstances. The Society numbers about three hundred members, amongst whom are the Archbishop of York, the Hon. Lady Musgrave, Lord Wenlock, the Dowager Lady Wenlock, the Dean of York, and most of the gentry of the City and neighbourhood. Theatre Royal. — The present Theatre, which is a curious looking brick buUding, was first opened in the month of January, 1765, by Mr. Baker, the predecessor, and afterwards the partner, of Mr. Tate Wilkinson. It was erected on the site of a more ancient buUding, in which theatrical representa tions were exhibited. Mr. WUkinson afterwards procured a Royal Patent for it, and conducted the establishment with much credit to himself, tiU his death, in 1805. During his life this theatre was second only to the great national theatre in Drury Lane, London, and a great many of the best actors, who at different times have adorned the London stage, were reared on the York " boards.'' The late celebrated Charles Mathews was one of the most iUustrious of these, and one of the most interesting parts of the Memoir of that great artiste, published by his widow, relates to the period when he was a member of Mr. Wikinson's Company. The present front towards St. Leonard's Place (the entrance to the boxes), with its arcade, was erected on the formation of that beautiful crescent. Pre viously the only entrance was from the top of Blake Street, through the present doors which lead to the pit and gallery. That part of the buUding abutting on St. Leonard's Place, stands upon an ancient stone vault, sup posed by some to be part of the remains of St. Leonard's Hospital, and by others to be one of the crypts of St. Peter's Church, which was destroyed by fire in King Stephen's reign, a.d. 1137. The interior of the Theatre, which is spacious, has been several times re- modeUed, and for its size is now one of the prettiest play-houses in the King dom. The York Theatrical circuit includes Leeds and HuU, and the " sea son " usuaUy commences here in March ; but the Theatre is also open in the race and other public weeks. The house adjoining the old entrance to the theatre was formerly the residence of the manager. TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK, 633 The large house at the upper end of Blake Street, near the Theatre, was erected by Sir William Robinson, Bart., an ancestor of the present Earl de Grey, who was theu representative of York in Parliament. In front are the Arms of the City, which were placed there by Sir William, merely on account of his holding the ground by lease from the Corporation. Yorkshire Club House. — The " Yorkshire Club," for the nobiUty and gentry of the County, was established in 1885, and the Club House, which is a handsome building, is in the centre of the crescent called St. Leonard's Place. The Club numbers about 850 members ; the entrance fee of each member is ten guineas, and the annual subscription is £5. De Grey Booms. — This building is also in St. Leonard's Place, and is the property of a Joint Stock Company, with a capital of £6,000., in £36, shares. The Company was formed in 1841, and the building commenced forthwith. It is chiefly intended for the accommodation of the mess of the Officers of the Yorkshire Hussars, during the annual visit of that regiment to York, and the Barristers' ordinary at the Assizes, but it is often used for concerts, balls, public entertainments, and meetings, A large number of the shares are held by the officers of the regiment, and the gentlemen of the northern circuit. The exterior of the house is handsome, the principal story having seven tall circular-headed windows, in front of which a parapet and an iron balus trade runs the whole length of the buUding. The principal room is a very fine apartment, partiy lighted from the top. There is an orchestra at the end of it, and from the waU hangs a fine whole length painting of Earl de Grey, in fuU costume, as Colonel of the Yorkshire Hussars. The County Gaol, commonly called York Castle, occupies, as we have shown at page 337, the site of an ancient fortress, which was converted into a County prison after it ceased to be a military post. Previous to the altera tions which commenced in 1836, the entrance to the Castle was by folding doors, and a porter's lodge, from Castiegate, on the north side of Clifford's Tower, and a stone, with the City Arms carved thereon, might have been seen within twenty yards of the gates to mark the boundary of the City. On the opening of the Assizes, the Sheriffs of York waited here to receive the Judge, and accompany him to the Guild HaU The present entrance is from Tower Street, at the south side of Clifford's Tower. The great gate of entrance, which is pointed, has a very imposing appearance, being flanked by two massy circular towers, with embattled parapets, loopholes, &c. Over the doorway, in a small panel, are the Royal Arms of George IV., carved in imitation of those of the period of Edward IV. From the top of this structure rises a subordinate square building, with small turrets at the 634 TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. angles, and the whole has a very bold but yet chaste appearance. The gate house, which is flre proof, was erected from the designs of the late P. F. Eobinson, Esq., F.S.A. ; the flrst stone having been laid on the 30th of March, 1836, by the Hon. M. Langley, High Sheriff of Yorkshire. The interior of the left hand tower, and the building over the archway are fltted up for a Record room and offices for the Clerk of Assize, &c. ; and the Petty Sessions for the three Ridings are held in the office of the Clerk of Assize. The right hand tower is the porter's residence. The lofty and splendid waUs, which circumscribe a large area, enclosing the old gaol, CUfford's Tower, &o., were rebuUt at the same time, in a style unifoi-m with that of the gateway, having numerous buttresses at regular intervals, with an embattled parapet A broad semicircular avenue round the north side of the base of CUfford's Tower, leads to the inner entrance to the Castie yard. The whole of the buildings, the area of CUfford's Tower, and the outer waUs, cover nearly eight acres.* The interior waUs of the Castie yard are 1,100 yards in circum ference, enclosing a pleasant and open area of about one acre, with a large grass plot in the centre, and a gravel walk entirely round it. The County meetings for the election of Knights of the Shire and other pubUc business are held in this yard, which wiU contain about 40,000 people. The buildings form three sides of the square, the fourth side being partly formed by the mound upon which stand the ruins of Clifford's Tower. The Old BuUdings, which occupy, as we have stated, the site of the towers of the ancient Castie, were completed in 1705 ; the expense being defrayed by a tax of three-pence in the pound on all lands, &c., in the County of York, in pursuance of an Act of Parliament. This building consists of a centre and two projecting wings, and a handsome turret surmounts the centre of the edifice, with a clock and beU. Until the new buildings were opened, this edifice was the prison for debtors and felons, and also the Governor's apart ments and the Chapel ; but since then it is set apart exclusively for the confinement of male debtors. In 1836 the Magistrates of the County purchased and enclosed a con siderable space north east of Clifford's Tower, and in the following year the erection of the new prison and the other alterations commenced. The new felons' gaol forms the semi-diameter of a circle, with the Governor's house in the centre, and there is not in England a more ha,ndsonie or better con structed prison. The Governor's house is an exceedingly neat buUding, • On the Castle HiU, before the building of the new walls, were several gentlemen's houses, one of which was occupied by Sir Heniy Thompson, of Escrick, who represented York in four Parliaments in the reign of Charles H. TOPOGEAPHY OP YOEK. 635 circular in shape, and so constructed that the whole prison may be inspected from it. The prison consists of four radiating double lines of building, with eight airing courts. To each prisoner is allotted a distinct cell, but there are ceUs in each ward which will accommodate three prisoners each. The buUdings are fire proof, and contrived with great ingenuity to prevent the escape of the persons confined,* The entire cost of the works was £308,530,, and was discharged by an annual rate of l^d, in the pound during the twelve years the alterations were in progress, York Castie now affords accommo dation to about 300 criminal prisoners, and 150 debtors. The large and handsome building opposite the County Courts contains the Chapel and the female wards, both criminals and debtors. It was erected in 1780, and considerably enlarged three years afterwards. The whole length of this building is 150 feet, and its front is adorned with an elegant colonnade with four Ionic pUlars, corresponding to the County Hall, In a small room near the Governor's house, are preserved the curiosities of the Castle, quaintly caUed the King's Plate, consisting of the deadly weapons with which murders have been committed, and the heavy chains of the most notorious malefactors who have been at different times confined in the Castle, and amongst them are the massive irons with which the noted highwayman Dick Turpin was bound. There are also casts, in plaster, of several criminals who were exe cuted here, Mr, John Noble is the present Governor, The County Hall stands on the west side of the entrance to the Court yard. This part of the Castle was built at the expense of the County in 1678, and rebuUt by the same means in 1777, It is an elegant structure of the Ionic order, 150 feet in length and 45 in breadth. The entrance to it is by a por tico of four Ionic columns, 30 feet in height, and attached antse, over which is a pediment, surmounted by a statue of Justice and other emblematical figures. The front corresponds in style, size, and elegance, with the noble. building standing opposite to it. The interior is divided into three parts. At the south end is the Crown Court, for criminal proceedings ; at the north end the Nisi Prius Couri, for civil business. In the middle is a large ves tibule, into which open several supplementary offices. The Courts are, each, crowned with a dome, ten feet high, supported by twelve Corinthian columns, * The gaols of England in former times were very different to the prisons of the present day. The prisoners were confined in dark, damp, unwholesome dungeons, icy cold in winter, and almost stifling in summer, with bad food and water; and it was not unusual for a fever to break out in these horrible places, such as that which at Oxford in 1577, swept away at the Assizes, the Judge, the High Sheriff, the chief of the.Jurors, and about three hundred other persons. A scourge of a similar nature happened at Cambridge in 1522 ; and another at the Old Bailey, London, in 1750, 4 L 636 TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. Behind the Grand Jury room is the place for the execution of criminals, where a temporary scaffolding is' erected for the purpose. It was first used for the sacrifice of human life to the offended laws, on the 38th of August, 1803 ; and previous to that date felons, condemned to die, were executed at Tyburn, near the race course. (See page 610). In 1805 or 1806, the workmen who were preparing to erect the present wall behind the Grand Jury room, discovered the remains of a Roman waU, upon which ancient foundation they raised the new wall. A block of free stone, inscribed Civitati, in Norman characters, was also found at the same time, whilst the men were digging a drain, which was supposed to have been a boundary stone, placed there in the reign of the Conqueror. In the early part of the present year (1857) some workmen employed in digging a drain behind York Castie, turned up the remains of twenty human bodies, the skulls of three or four of which were wanting. They are sup posed to be the remains of twenty-one Scottish rebels, ten of whom were executed on Saturday, the 1st of November, 1746, and the remainder on the Saturday following. They were hanged, drawn, and quartered, and a local paper, which was in existence at the time, states that " the whole was con ducted with the utmost decency and good order." The heads of two of the culprits were exposed on Micklegate Bar, the head of another was sent to Carlisle in a box for a similar exhibition ; and the bodies of the whole of them were buried behind the Castle in which they had been confined. Though the Assizes for the three Eidings are held there, the Castle is not within any of them, nor is it in the jurisdiction of the City ; it is Extra- Parochial, though it is assessed and bears charges to the parish of St. Mary, Castiegate. The present High Sheriff of Yorkshire is Sir Joseph EadcUffe, Bart,, of Eudding Park. The City House of Correction, formerly the City Gaol, for the use of the City and Ainsty, was erected near the site of the Skeldergate Postern, and close beneath the Baile HUl, between the years 1803 and 1807. The gaol for the imprisonment and correction of "lesser criminals," was formerly a part of St. Anthony's Hall, on Peaseholme Green ; but in the year 1814 a new House of Correction was completed on Toft Green, at the joint expense of the City and Ainsty. After the latter district was added to the County in 1836, aU the committals from that quarter were, of course, made to York Castle, and the gaol on Toft Green was afterwards sold to the EaUway Com pany, for £5,000., and its site is now included in the Eailway Station, A contract has been entered into between the Corporation of the City and the Magistrates of the County, for the custody of the City criminals, TOPOGEAPHY OP YOEK, 637 and debtors at the Castle, so that the business at the present gaol is now confined to the safe keeping and correction of persons convicted of minor offences. The executions at this prison, whilst it was used as the City gaol, were happily very rare ; but when they did occur, the horrid ceremony took place on a scaffold erected without the wall, next to the Old Baile Hill, and an opening was made in the wall to admit the culprit to pass through. The edifice is entirely of stone, surrounded by a high brick wall. The principal building consists of a centre and wings, the former furnished with a pediment. On the roof is an octagonal turret, with an hemispherical dome and vane. There are cells for the accommodation of seventy prisoners, Mr, Hugh Bar rett is the present Governor, On the east side of the old Ouse bridge stood a Gaol for Debtors, which was built in the sixteenth century. In 1734 this gaol, and a small dweUing house adjoining, were purchased by the Corporation, They were immedi ately taken down, and a more commodious prison erected, but this was removed in 1810, when the present bridge across the Ouse was built, Drake tells us that the high tower of Monk Bar was formeriy used as a prison for the freemen of the City. Post Office, Lendal. — This is a plain but commodious brick building, one story in height, erected in 1840. The business of the Post Office was once conducted in Skeldergate. In the reign of George II., the post office was in Coney Street, but in 1764 the business was removed to the first building in Lendal, near the Mansion House, where it continued till the present post office was erected. Mr. Joshua Oldfield is the postmaster. From one of Mr. Davies' lectures we learn the foUowing interesting particulars respecting the transmission of letters from York in former times. In 1536, when the northern rebeUion, called the Pilgrimage of Grace, took place, Henry VIH. expressed his annoyance at the slow process by which he received intelligence, and accordingly an arrangement was made, by which the parishes in York were ordered to find horses for the better transmission of letters ; and in 1643, four horses were directed to be kept by the four wards of the City for the same purpose. In the reign of Edward VL, the Corporation contracted with a party to find four horses at four pounds a year, or three halfpence a day. It was not however tiU the reign of Charles I., that the general postal system of the Kingdom was placed on a good footing, though that improve ment would appear strange to us in these days of railways and electric tele graphs. Again it was not tUl 1784, that the change from pack horses to coaches took place, and it is related that the post office clerks used to walk 638 TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. to Micklegate Bar when the pack horses were later than usual, to Usten for the tinkling of their bells.* Teadb Halls. — As has already been observed, there were formerly several trading guUds or fraternities in York, possessing many peculiar privileges, now obsolete. Many of these guilds possessed common haUs, and two of them are yet in existence. The Merchants' HaU, or " Gilda Mercatorum," York, is situated in Foss gate, and is the property of " The Merchant Adventurers' Company,'' ori ginally estabUshed in this City at a very early period. This Company being free of the five Hanse towns, enjoyed many valuable privileges on the impor tation of goods hence ; but it has survived aU the fluctuations, and the flnal decline of the foreign commerce of the City. The Eeform Bill of 1833 deprived this and all similar fraternities of the remnant of their privileges. The funds of this Company having been extended by several considerable donations, yet exists, but more in the character of a charitable body than that of a Society of Merchants. The ancient seal of the Company is still preserved. It is of brass, and is in fine preservation, It exhibits two figures — one of the Blessed Virgin and the other a personification of Commerce ; " thus denoting that the mercantile institution was grafted on one which originally had been monastic." The legend or inscription is as follows ; — " Sigillum Cmnobii hospitaliter fratrum et sororum Beata Marice Virginis Juaita Portam Fossa Ebor. ; " which is thus translated — ¦" Seal of the Monastery of the Brethren and Sisters of the Blessed Virgin Mary, near Fossgate, York." The Hall is of great antiquity, and is stated by tradition to have been built out of the remains of a reUgious house, caUed Trinity Chapel. A piece of garden ground behind the buUding is supposed to have been used as a place of interment; quantities of human bones having been thrown up at various periods. Over the entrance gateway, carved in stone, are the recentiy res tored Arms of the Merchants of the Staple. A flight of stone steps from the court yard leads to the principal rooms in the hall, which consist of two * Post Office Statistics.— A return has been printed, showing the great increase in the last fourteen years in chargeable letters delivered in the United Kingdom. In 1850 the number was 347,000,000, being an increase on the previous year of 9,500,000. In 1851, 360,500,000; increase, 13,800,000, In 1853, 379,500,000; increase, 19,000,000, And during the year, ending 5th of January, 1854, very nearly 411,000,000 letters were delivered, being an increase of 31,500,000, The gross revenue of the Post Office department for the last mentioned year was iE2,631,944,, and the net revenue ^1,173,278, The profits of the Money Order Depart ment were ^614,140, The number of money orders isstied during that year was 8,315,290 ; the number paid was 5,313,065; and the amount paid was J69,930,296, TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. 639 antique apartments, each 65 feet long, 35 feet wide, and about 14 feet in height, which originally formed one room. The inner room, which is neatly fltted up, and ornamented with several good portraits of different Governors of the Company, as well as a full length portrait of George I., is the one in which the Company holds its quarterly Courts, and breakfast or dine toge ther twice a year ; and the other large room is used occasionally for public meetings and exhibitions. On the ground floor is a small Chapel, and a Hospital for ten poor people, caUed Trinity Hospital. The Chapel was built in 1411, and repaired at various periods. Divine Service is performed in it for the Company on the 36th of March — called the Charter day — and on one or two other days in the year. The Hospital has already been described at page 595 of this volume. The workmanship of this ancient hall is very massy, the walls are of great thickness, and the roof is composed of immense planks of fine old English oak, in exceUent preservation. There are records in the chests of the Merchants' Company of as early a date as the reign of King Stephen. Persons serving an apprenticeship of eight years to a " Mer chant " of the Company, become members upon payment of some small fees ; and others become "Merchant Adventurers," by being elected by ballot, and by paying an entrance fine. There are now about forty members in the Company. Merchant TaUors' Hall. — This buUding is situated in a court in Aldwark, and belongs to the ancient Company of Merchant TaUors of York ; which fraternity now resembles the Merchant Adventurers' Company in every par ticular; the privUeges of the members are merely nominal. They hold meetings in their hall, and on the 30th of June the anniversary of the Com pany is celebrated, when they elect officers for the ensuing year, and attend a sermon in the Church of St. Crux, which is preached on that day by their Chaplain. The Hall is an ancient red brick building, the principal room of which is spacious, and was formerly occupied as a Theatre. It is now used as a National School for girls. This room had formerly an arched wooden •roof, now concealed by one of plaster. In the window is a piece of stained glass, representing two angels supporting a bust of Queen Anne, and be neath are the arms of the Company, with the following inscription : — " This Company had beene dignified in the yeare 1679, by hauing in their fraternity eight Kings, eleven Dukes, thirty Earles, and forty-four Lords." The ancient Hospital or Almshouses in connection with this fraternity has been already noticed at page 593 of this volume. The Merchant Tailors' Company possess some ancient plate, consisting of tour pieces of silver, viz., two tankards, a large cup, and a salver. 630 TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. There is here, as in some other cities, a Goldsmiths' Company, which is authorized by Act of Parliament to elect two Wardens annuaUy, and also to appoint an Assay Master. The Haberdashers' Hall stood in Walmgate, at the corner of Neutgate Lane, now St. George Street, and was erected by Sir Eobert Watter, Knt., who served the office of Lord Mayor in the year 1591 and 1603. He was a member of the Haberdashers' Company, and built the hall for his brethren of the trade to assemble in. It was a very ancient .timber building, and after it ceased to be used by the Haberdashers, it was divided and let in small tenements. It was removed a few years ago, when the street was improved and widened. Sir E. Watter founded an Hospital or Almshouse in this locality, which is noticed at page 596 of this volume. The Company of Cordwaiuers was another of the fraternities which were united at York, for the protection and encouragement of their respective trades. A large and handsome bowl, which belong to them, is now deposited in the vestry of the Minster. (See page 453.) This Company was dissolved in 1808, The Almshouse, caUed Maison Dieu, noticed at 591 of this volume, was connected with it. Medical Institutions, — York County Hospital, Monkgate, — This insti tution chiefly owes its foundation to a legacy of £600, left in 1740, by Lady EUzabeth Hastings, " for the relief of the diseased poor of the City and County of York," This fund being augmented about the same time by other benevolent persons, the Hospital was soon after erected. The buUding, which stood in Monkgate, having become inadequate to the requirements of the institution — ^in consequence of the great increase in the population — it was taken down in 1850, and the present Hospital was erected and opened in 1881. It stands several yards to the rear of the spot upon which the old one stood, and is an elegant and extensive range of buUdings, four stories in height, with a handsome ItaUan front. The basement story is of stone, and the remainder of the buUding is of red brick, with cut stone dressings. The cost of the structure was about £11,000., of which sum £7,000. was raised by subscription in the County, and the remainder was taken from the funds of the charity. The Messrs. Atkinson, of York, were the architects. The interior is perfect in its arrangements, and wiU accommodate 130 patients. Persons suffering from infectious or contagious disorders are not admitted as in-patients. The number of patients annuaUy admitted into the Hospital is about 600. The annual income of the institution, including real and personal estates, subscriptions, &c., now amounts to about £3,000, Clinical lectures are given by the physicians and surgeons of the Hospital, TOPOGEAPHY OP YOEK, 631 and certificates of attendance on the medical and surgical practice of the Hospital, conjointly with the York Dispensary, are received by the Eoyal CoUege of Surgeons, and the Society of Apothecaries, London, The govern ment of this institution is vested in the hands of the trustees and 'governors, who hold quarterly courts in the board room. The Medical Library was established in 1810 by the subscriptions and donations of eighteen members of the medical profession, resident in York, aided by the contributions of several of their fellow citizens, who were friends to the diffusion of medical knowledge. In order to secure the perpetuity of the institution, as well as to avoid the expense of rent and a librarian's salary, it was resolved that the books should be the property of the Trustees of the County Hospital ; the office of librarian being, with the consent of the Go vernors of the Hospital, annexed to that of house-surgeon. The library is regularly enriched by the best medical publications of the day, and it now contains about 1,000 volumes of the most valuable standard medical works, and some of the best and most expensive anatomical plates published. It is under the exclusive management of its subscribers, who must be medical practitioners residing in York, The medical officers of the Hospital enjoy no privileges distinct from the rest, with regard to the use and management of the library. The annual subscription is one guinea. The York School of Medicine was established in 1834, the County Hospital and the York Dispensary being united in its formation. The session is divided into two terms, a winter and a summer term ; during which period lectures are delivered to the students in the lecture room of the County Hos pital, by several able medical gentlemen resident in the City, The Museum of Anatomy, comprising the collection of the late Mr, James Atkinson, is open to the students daily during the session. Attendance on the course of lectures also qualifies for examination at the Eoyal College of Surgeons, and at Apothecaries' Hall, London, The Medical Society was founded in 1833, for the advancement and dif fusion of medical knowledge. Its meetings are held at the Dispensary on the evenings of every alternate Saturday, from the beginning of October to the end of AprU. There is a Medical Library in connection with this Society. York Dispensary, New Street. — This institution for the relief of the sick poor was opened in 1788. It is maintained by subscription, and is one of the most efficient and truly useful charities of the City. It was originally conducted in a room in the Merchants' Hall, Fossgate, from whence, in 1806, it was removed to St. ^ndrewgate, where it continued tiU the erection of the present building; the foundation stone of which was laid in 1837, by 633 TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. the late Mr. Alderman Wilson, The cost of the erection was £1,950,, in cluding the site, and it was opened in 1888. It is a neat stone ediflce, with a smaU Doric portico of four columns. The interior is weU arranged, having a large waiting room, with a lantern light, with the various offices around it. Some of the principal medical men of the City are connected with this Dispensary. The Institution for Diseases of the Ear, Merchants' HaU, Fossgate, which is the only one in the north of England devoted exclusively to the treatment of affections of the organ of hearing, was opened about four years ago, chiefly through the instrumentality of James Allen, Esq., of this City, who is now the Treasurer of the institution. It is supported by voluntary contributions, and gratuitous advice is afforded to the poor every Saturday at noon. Mr. Oswald A. Moore is the surgeon. The Institution for Diseases qf the Eye, Merchant Tailors' HaU, Aldwark, was established in 1831, for the relief of the poor, labouring under diseases of the eye. A donor of £6., or an annual subscriber of 10s., has the right of recommending patients, and of voting at geheral meetings. The medical officers are Dr. Belcombe, physician, and Messrs. Eeed and Paley, Surgeons. The Homeopathic Dispensary, bootham, was founded in 1851, for the cure of cases solely on Homeopathic principles. Honorary subscribers have the privUege of sending eight jpoor patients for every guinea subscribed or con tributed annuaUy ; or four poor patients for every annual donation of half a guinea. Asylum for the Insane, Bootham. — EstabUshed in pursuance of resolutions passed at a County meeting, held in the Castle of York, on the 87th of August, 1778. The original intention was to confine it to pauper lunatics only, or to such as belonged to indigent families. The present site was pur chased ; a plan was prepared for a building calculated to contain 54 patients ; and on the 30th of September, 1777, the building being nearly completed, apartments were opened for ten patients at 8s. per week. At this time there were only four simUar institutions in the Kingdom, namely, two in London, one at Manchester, and the other at Newcastle. In August, 1784, it was determined that a Umited number of opulent patients should be admitted for the benefit of the institution, and in 1795 an extensive wing was added to the premises. The false principles upon which most of our institutions for the treatment of lunatics were formerly conducted, prevailed in this asylum. In 1813 Mr. S. Tuke pubUshed his account of the « Eetreat" Lunatic Asylum, and a passage in it, recommending a more mUd method of treatment for the insane, than had been generaUy adopted, was made the subject of a letter TOPOGEAPHY OP YOEK. 633 from the physician of this Asj'lum (Dr. Best), in one of the York newspapers, A public controversy on the subject ensued, which terminated fatally to the physician, though beneficiaUy to the Asylum, An investigation into the aUeged abuses of the institution was set on foot, and it soon became evident that but very defective attention was paid to the comfort, clothing, and diet of the inmates, and to the ventilation and cleanliness of the establishment. Whilst the investigation was pending, and whilst public attention was excited towards the institution, a detached wing of the building was accidentally destroyed by fire, on the evening of the 38th of December, 1814, This dreadful calamity was stiU more affecting, from the circumstance of many of the patients being locked up in their rooms, and from the principal part of the servants being from home ; the sad consequence being that four patients, who had been chained to the walls, perished in the flames. The premises were insured in the County Fire Office for the sum of £3,893, A further investigation immediately ensued, which led to the exposure of some shame ful and even criminal abuses ; and the whole terminated in the dismissal of every servant and officer employed in attending on the patients, the resigna tion of the physician, and the complete re-organization of the whole establish ment, under the direction of the Superintendent of the before-mentioned Eetreat ; and since that period the institution has been in efficient and pros perous operation, and the rate of mortality has materiaUy diminished. This Asylum, in the bestowal of its charity, is not limited to the upper and wealthier classes, but extends its benefits alike to the reduced and the com paratively indigent. It receives patients suffering under every form and in every stage of mental derangement, and shelters alike the raving maniac of but a few days, and the hopeless imbecile of a score years. The BuUding is of red brick, and is a handsome structure, three stories high. The ascent to it is by five stone steps ; the lowest story is rustic, from which four stone columns are carried up to the entablature, which is finished by a pediment On the top of the building is an elegant cyUndrical beU tower, surrounded with smaU columns, and surmounted with a cupola and vane. The ground floor comprises six day rooms for the patients, with access to five airing courts adjoining the building ; a broad and handsome stair case leads to the two upper stories, in the first of which are two sitting rooms and several bed rooms, ranged on each side of a long gaUery. The other story is constructed in the same way, and comprises lodging rooms only. Behind the front building is a smaU octagon erection, containing the kitchen, and a sitting room for females, and near it is a buUding containing a series of apartments for female patients, which was erected at a great expense, and 4 M 634 TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. opened in 1817. The house is surrounded by gardens and pleasure grounds, and contains all the modern improvements connected with the treatment of lunacy. The non-restraint system is carried out to a considerable extent; and amongst the usual amusements of the patients are chess, drafts, cards, • music, cricket, &c. At the opening of the Pauper Lunatic Asylum for the North and East Eidings, about thirty paupers were removed to it from this institution, and since that time no pauper lunatic has been an inmate here. The chief officers of this institution are a physician. Dr. Simpson ; Medical Superintendent, Dr. Edward Simpson ; and Chaplain, Eev. Thomas Richardson. The income of the estabUshment is derived chiefly from the charge to patients for board, attendance, &c. ; from dividends of certain stock in the funds, and from rents.' Its management is in the hands of a Committee of Governors. The Retreat Lunatic Asylum, Heslington Road. — This exceUent institution was projected by the late Mr. William Tuke, of York, for persons afflicted with disorders of the mind, among the Society of Friends, in consequence of the unsatisfactory treatment and death of one of that persuasion, at an estab lishment for the insane, during the year 1791. Mr. Tuke was aided in his exertions to establish this Asylum by Lindley Murray, the celebrated gram marian, and several other individuals; and though many objections were raised against a proposal so novel, and considerable difflculties had to be overcome, yet a subscription was at length opened, and. a fund was formed for its establishment. In 1794 nearly twenty acres of land were purchased for £3,335., but it being afterwards thought too much, eight acres of it were disposed of for the. sum of £968., and the buUding was commenced on the remaining eleven acres. The Asylum was at first designed solely for the members of the Society of Friends, but has since been extended to others connected with them. In 1796 the house was opened for the reception of patients, and from that time to the present it has uuinteruptedly enjoyed the care and interests of the descendants of its projector. Before the opening of this institution the treatment of the insane, in the various asylums, was harsh in the extreme, and it frequently amounted to brutal coercion ; but those who have been the supporters and managers of the Eetreat have the enviable satisfaction of knowing, that by the gentiest and most amiable means, they have accompUshed an amount of good, and conferred a degree of happiness on thousands, which scarcely can be overstated. The Eetreat is situated on an eminence, in the purest air, and commanding extensive and interesting prospects over the City and the delightful vale of York, The BuUdings are all of brick, and are very extensive as weU as imposing. TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. 635 They have recently undergone extensive alterations and improvements ; two of the old wings, which were originally built for the accommodation of the violent patients, have been removed, and replaced by large and handsome structures, embracing every modern improvement in the construction of dweUings for the insane, and calculated to facilitate the carrying out, in a still more complete manner, the principles of treatment adopted from the foundation of the establishment. A new Meeting House too has been recently added. The whole pile of buildings consist chiefly of a centre and four wings, presenting imposing fronts facing both north and south. The airing grounds, gardens, &c., now extend over thirty acres, and the expense of forming the whole establishment has not been less than £80,000. The in stitution, which embraces all classes of patients "from the labourer to the wealthy gentieman, and from the servant to the sensitive and delicate lady," will now accommodate 180 patients, aU of whom, except those of the higher classes, must be members or nearly connected with the Society of Friends. The general management of it is under the care of a body of Directors and a Committee, and the medical officers are Mr. John Kitching, Superinten dent, and Mr. Caleb WiUiams and Dr. D. H. Tuke.* Pauper Lunatic Asylum, Clifton. — The North and East Ridings of York shire joined in the erection of this institution, and it was opened for tho reception of the insane poor of both Ridings in the year 1847. Provision was made for 150 inmates; but in three years afterwards such was the in crease in the number of applicants, that the buildings were enlarged so as to make them capable of receiving 313 patients. According to the Medical Superintendent's Seventh Annual Report, there was accomodation for 313 patients, the Asylum was fuU, and fifteen patients had been refused admit tance for want of accommodation. From the same Report we learnt that the land comprises 88a. 1e. 39p., and cost £10,070. ; the various buUdings, furniture, and original outfit cost £40,079.; making a total of £50,149. which together is at the rate of £160. per patient, for founding the Asylum a sum which falls considerably short of the average of the seventeen other Asylums of a similar character which have been erected. The average cost of the other Asylums is at the rate of £194. per head. It is to be deplored that in the two Ridings there appears to be a steadily growing increase of lunatic patients, and in consequence of this state of things, the Magistrates assembled at the Midsummer Sessions, 1855, determined to enlarge the * For further particulars of this Institution see the " Description of the Eetreat " bv Samuel Tuke, 4to., and " The Statistics of the Eetreat," Svo. 036 TOPOGEAPHY OP YOEK. building for an increased number of patients, for which purpose £14,500. was voted, making in the whole, accommodation for 473 patients at a total outlay of £64,649, 14s, lOd. The cost upon this number is now reduced to £137, per patient. By the 9th section of the Lunatic Asylum Act, of 1853, the Borough of Richmond is now annexed to the North Riding for the purposes of the insane poor. The Asylum is situated near the viUage of CUfton, about one mile and a half from the City of York, The BuUdings, which form an extensive and handsome pile, in the EUza bethan style of architecture, stand in a garden of above thirty acres, attached to which is a grazing farm of above fifty acres. The grounds are laid down with much taste, and the house is approached by a handsome avenue. The land affords healthy and profitable employment for the inmates, upon whom the occupations of garden and farm labour, and the various diversions of a rural Ufe, are found to be of the most consoling and tranquillizing tendency. The old methods of restraint in the treatment of the insane are dispensed with ih this institution, and everything assumes as lively and cheerful an aspect as possible. Besides gardening and farming, the patients are exten sively employed in various handicrafts — the males are employed as tailors, shoemakers, bricklayers, masons, blacksmiths, carpenters, wheelwrights, &c, ; and the females in sewing, knitting, straw-plaiting, washing, ironing, assisting in the kitchen, and general household duties. The system of keeping the patients to employments adapted to their capacities has been found to act most favourably on their minds, besides the profits of their labours materially diminish their cost to the public. The number of patients under treatment during the year 1856 was 408, and the number of patients in the institution on the last day of that year was 355. City Insane Paupers.^-TJ-aAev the provisions of the above-mentioned Lu natic Asylum Act, it has become imperative on the City of York either to erect a Lunatic Asylum for the reception of their own pauper lunatics, or to enter into an arrangement with some adjoining Asylum, for the reception of those lunatics. It does not appear to be the intention of the citizens to erect a suitable building at present, but to go on paying for their insane paupers in the private asylums, at the rate of about 10s. per week, LiTEEAEY, &c,, Institutions, — Yorkshire Philosophical Society. — Towards the close of the year 1833, a few gentiemen of the City and its vicinity, to whom various branches of natural science, and especially geology, were favourite objects of pursuit, conceived the idea of estabUshing such a Society, and forthwith put the design into execution. The Society soon increased in numbers and importance ; a museum was formed, into which valuable con- TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK, 637 tributions liberally flowed ; and it became evident that uo premises not ex pressly designed for the purpose would be adequate to the wants, or suitable to the views of the Society, In 1837 they obtained from the Crown a grant of nearly three acres of land — part of the Close of the Abbey of St, Mary, commonly called the Manor Shore, for the purpose of erecting a building suitable for the preservation of their library, museum, &c, ; and of establishing an English Botanical Garden ; as well as for preserving from further decay the venerable remains of the Abbey, which was rapidly disappearing. And here it may be observed, that the lover of the picturesque and beautiful in architecture is indebted to this Society for rescuing that interesting monu ment of the piety, taste, and skill of past ages, from the list of architectural beauties by which York was once adorned, and of the existence of which no trace is now to be found, except in the tablets of the artist, or in the records of the topographical historian. Lord Grantham (now Earl de Grey) whose family had long held the whole of the Manor, or ancient Close of the Abbey, under the Crown, very willingly consented to relinquish the portion which the Society wished to possess. A subscription of £7,000., to defray the cost of a suitable building, having been previously raised, the first stone was laid by the Archbishop of York, on the 34th of October, 1837 ; and on the 3nd of February, 1830, the whole suite of apartments was opened. This building — the Museum qf the York shire PhUosophical Society — is partly erected on the offices of St. Mary's Abbey, and is one of the most chaste and elegant structures in the County of York. The facade has a western aspect towards the river, and a projecting portico of four fluted Grecian-Doric columns, resting upon a basement of three steps, and supporting the proper entablature, with mutules and trig- lyphs, and a pediment. The entablature is continued along the entire front, having attached antse at the angles. In the portions unoccupied by the portico are three linteUed windows. The whole exterior is 300 feet in length, and of Hackness stone, aud has an air of imposing grandeur ; and the inte rior is in equal taste. The Hall is 39 feet by 18 feet, with a ceiling of bold panel work, and a floor of Scagliola plaster, in imitation of porphyry. On one side of the hall is the Library, which is 31 feet by 18, and contains the books, maps, drawings, &c., of the Society; on the .other side is the CouncU Room ; and the staircases leading to two rooms above, which are filled with a variety of objects of interest. In the centre is the entrance to the Theatre or Lecture Boom, which apartment measures 44 feet by 36, is square and ornamented by six elegant Corinthian columns, which support a ceiUng richly panelled. The Ught is derived from windows of ground glass inserted 638 TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. in the centre panels, and by a simple contrivance, whenever it is desirable shutters can be drawn over them, so as to render the theatre completely dark. The seats of the audience descend to the lecturer's table. The room on the right is the mineral museum, that on the left the geological collection, which is one of the best in the Kingdom. The centre apartment contains a series of ornithological and zoological specimens, and some others. This Museum teems with treasures, and is enriched with specimens of ex tinct animals, beyond most institutions of a similar character. Amongst the varied contents of the several rooms of this building may be noticed the following : — In the Entrance Hall. — ^A Eomau tablet representing the sacrifice and mysteries of Mithras, found in 1747, in digging for a cellar in a house in Micklegate ; a cast of one of the great obelisks at Karnak, the eastern part of Thebes, erected by Amense, sister of Thotmes IL, in the name of her husband Amenenthituot; a cast of a figure of an Assyrian King, sculptured on a rock, near Beyrout ; some Egyptian sculpture, and the ancient mortar formerly belonging to the infirmary of St. Mary's Abbey, York, In the Theatre, three large pieces of ancient tapestry, representing maps of several of the midland counties, executed iu 1588 ; a stem of a large tree fern, from Van Dieman's Land ; and specimens of Indian products. In the Room on the Right, specimens of the higher departments of zoology, classed according to the system of Cuvier ; also a col lection of British and other shells, skeletons of British birds, and specimens of Foreign fish. In the Large Centre Room, specimens of reptiles, fishes, and British and Foreign birds. The collection of British birds is extensive, and some of the Foreign specimens are rare and valuable. The Geological Room contains a most extensive and valuable collection of Geological specimens — about 16,000 iu number-^systematically arranged according to the strata to which they belong. The collection in this room includes many specimens of minerals and fossil organic remains, from the different strata in Yorkshire, In the First Upper Room is a large collection of specimens of ornitho logical osteology ; a skeleton of the Irish elk, and also that of a young whale which was cast upon the Yorkshire coast a few years since. The Second Upper Room contains specimens of British birds, presented by Wilham Eudston Eead, Esq, in 1846, In the Council Room is a collection of coins, consisting chiefly of Eoman denarii, con sular and imperial; of Koman brass of three sizes; several Grecian coins, and a few Eoman durei; several rare and interesting examples of British and Saxon coins, in cluding two of the hoard of Saxon coins discovered in Walmgate, noticed at page 311 of this volume ; and twelve silver pennies of the short-crossed money of Henry II. or IIL, whioh are part of a hoard found near Barnsley, and Enghsh coins in gold, silver, and copper, of all denominations. Also a series of about 4,000 Northumbri a stycas, found in St. Leonard's Place, York, in 1842; and about 3,000 of a hoard, which was discovered in 1847 near Bolton Percy. Lord Londesborough has recentiy presented to the Society a large proportion of a hoard of Eoman coins discovered in January, 1856, at Methall, near Warter on the Wolds, in the East Eiding of Yorkshire. They are upwards of fifteen hundred in number, and were found buried in an earthen vessel upon the line of an old Eoman TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. 639 road. Fifty-three coins of the same hoard have been presented by Wm. Eudston Eead, Esq. These coins begin with the reign of Talerian, and include those of Gallienus, and the period of the so-called Thirty Tyrants, and conclude with Aurelian, compre hending a space of seventeen yeai-s, from a.d. 276 to 283. The Society is likewise in possession of a good collection of modern medals in bronze and silver, which have been lately arranged and catalogued, describing the events which they are severally designed to commemorate. The building, in the grounds near the river, called the Hospitium, contains an ex tremely interesting coUection of antiquities belonging to the Eomau, Anglo-Saxon, Anglo-Norman, and Mediaeval periods, most of which have been found in York, or its neighbourhood. Amongst the collection in the Lower Room of this building (which is entirely of ancient sculpture) are nearly the whole of the Eoman remains mentioned at pages 292 to 310, and a Eoman altar found in Doncaster in 1781, and recently pre sented to the Yorkshire Philosophical Society by George J. Jarratt, Esq., of that place ; and a Eoman pavement discovered at Oulston, near Easingwold, and lately removed to the Museum. Many interesting fragments of the Abbey of St. Mary ; and a tablet which had been built into the wall of the house which till lately stood at the corner of St, Saviourgate and CoUiergate, bearing an inscription. (See page 362,) The antiquities deposited in the Upper Room of the Hospitium are of a very miscel laneous character. The room is fitted up with glass cases, &c., and the collection is interesting. We may particularly notice an Egyptian Mummy, and several Eoman remains of humanity embedded iu lime, and now in glass cases. A British canoe dug from the bed of the river Calder, at Stanley Ferry, near Wakefield, in 1838. A British cinerary um, found in the centre of a barrow at Bishop Burton, near Beverley ; a smaller British urn, found in excavating for the York and Scarborough Eailroad, near Bootham ; a cinerary urn, containing fragments of bones and ashes, found near the Mount, without Micklegate Bar ; and a great variety of Eoman bricks and tiles, bearing the makers' names or other inscriptions. A large coUection of Samian ware, plain and embossed ; and many fragments of funereal, drinking, and other vessels. Amongst the antiquities which were discovered in various parts of the country, and are deposited here, are a fragment of a large British urn, found at Acklam, near Malton ; an um, a scull, and bone pins from British tumuU, at the same place ; spear and lance or arrow heads, knives, scissors, and other instruments of iron, found iu Anglo-Saxon barrows or tumuli near 'Driffield; jaws and teeth, several scuUs, the umbo of a shield, centre and four pieces, beads of amber, glass, &c., and several other articles found in barrows near Driffield, and at Danes' Dale. Several Anglo-Saxon urns, from tumuli on the Yorkshire Wolds ; two small stone hammers found at Malton ; and a coUection of bronze celts, some chisels and bronze gouges, found at Westow near Malton. Edward H. Eeyuard, Esq., of Sunderlandwick, near Driffield, lately presented to the Museum a rude coffin, supposed to be British, of unusual dimensions, hoUowed from the trunk of an immense oak, and containing, when found, the remains of three skele tons. This interesting object was discovered in August, 1856, by some of Mr. Eeynard's labourers, while engaged in levelling a smaU hUl near the Sunderlandwick toU bar. In the month of AprU in the present year (1857) was added to the Natural History department of this Museum a huge fossU specimen of the Ichthyosaurus or fish lizard recentiy discovered in the neighbourhood of Whitby. This monster specimen of an extinct reptUe is eighteen feet long, and the head alone weighs three quarters of a ton. 640 TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. it was purchased for one hundred and ten pounds, and presented to the Yorkshire Philosophical Society by the Eev. Danson Eichardson RoundeU, of Gledstone, Skipton. An Aquarium is about to be added to the Museum. It is in contemplation to erect a permanent buUding for the preservation and 'display of the Eoman tesselated pavements obtained by the Society, which are of a magniflcent description, and which are now in detached portions. Meteorological observations are made, and a Meteorological Register is kept) by the Yorkshire Philosophical Society. The Museum Gardens now occupy about one half of the ancient Close of the Abbey of St. Mary, with a smaU portion of the moat of the City waU, and of the enclosure within which the Hospital of St. Leonard formerly stood. The grounds are tastefully disposed, and ornamented with rare shrubs, trees, and plantations, which, together with the picturesque ruins of the Abbey, the Cloister and Chapel of St. Leonard's Hospital, and the Eoman waU and Mul tangular Tower, render this deUghtful spot one of the principal attractions of York. In front of the Museum is a small Observatory, erected in 1833. The Hot House contains a very rare and valuable collection of Orchideous and other plants ; together with a tank for that elegant but monstrous plants the Water Lily (Victoria Regia). The principal entrance to the grounds is from Lendal, by a gateway formed by Doric columns, supporting their proper en tablature ; and a small porter's lodge attached. Dr. Beckwith, of York, who died in December, 1843, left to the Philo sophical Society one of the most munificent bequests of modern times, for the promotion of science. By his wUl he directed the sum of £10,000, to be paid to the Society, for the better promotion of its objects. This in tention has been carried out, by the gardens being greatly extended, and other improvements made conducive to the enjoyments and recreation of the subscribers. The British Association for the Advancement of Science may be said in some measure to be indebted for its formation to the Yorkshire Philosophical Society. It had been for some time a subject of profound regret amongst scientific men and philosophers in England, that there appeared to be no interest taken in science and scientific pursuits in this country. " Science there was," says the talented Editor of the HuU Advertiser, to whose exceUent articles in that paper, on the occasion of the visit of the Association to HuU in 1853, we are indebted for much information respecting this learned body, " vital, and quick, and powerful, it is true ; but it wanted development It had no opening, but a casual one for its exhibition. It was struggling for TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. 641 existence, and in its struggle seemed to have no assistance from any one.' At length Sir David Brewster, who had seen the working of a scientific con gress on the continent, conceived the design of forming such an one in England. In 1830 he called public attention to the matter in a powerful article in the Quarterly Beview. Sir Humphrey Davy, Sir John Herschel, and Mr. Babbage, soon became his coadjutors, and York was selected as the place where they should launch their undertaking, for two reasons : — first, because it was considered as most central and convenient ; and secondly, it possessed a very active and influential Philosophical Society. The secretary of that society was Professor PhUlips (the present deputy Eeader in Geology in the University of Oxford), and to him, on the 38rd of January, 1831, Sir David Brewster proposed that the Society, which he represented, should take the initiative in the formation of a body, intended to be designated the British Association for the Promotion of Science. The objects of this Association he proposed should be " to make the cultivators of science acquainted with each other — to stimulate one another to new exertions — to bring the objects of science before the public eye — and to take measures for advancing its in terests, and accelerating it progress." The suggestion of Sir David Brewster was soon acted upon, and Professor Phillips, in conjunction with the Committee of the Society to which he be longed, took such steps as eventuated in the first meeting of the British Association being held in York. Not less than two hundred of the most eminent scientific men in the Kingdom attended that meeting; and the manner in which all exerted themselves to promote the objects of the Associa tion, showed at once that there was no lack of interest felt in its future prosperity. Since then the Association has held its annual meetings in many of the principal towns in the three Kingdoms, all of which were eminently suc cessful ; and in every town it has left behind it marks of its civiUzing and beneficial influence. Its funds are devoted to a considerable extent to pro moting investigations in all branches of science ; and upwards of £15,000, have been expended by the Association in this manner — "not frittered away," says the Editor of the HuU Advertiser, " in useless theories, but, on the con trary, spent in investigations, which have, in their results, been of lasting beneflt to mankind. Indeed it would be difficult to say," continues the same writer, "what class of the community has not derived benefits from its workings. It has not confined its attention to any one particular object, but, with a general benevolence of purpose, has directed the light of those master inteUects, which it numbers in its ranks, upon every thing which could by 4 N • 643 TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. possibility advance us either in knowledge, or power, or influence. And so it has gone on growing by its own exertions, and gradually, yet effectually, forcing itself upon the attention of the world, until it has now overcome all opposition, and has come to be regarded among the most honoured and influential institutions of our land." Yorkshire Union of Mechanics' Institutes. — ^Incalculable are the advantages which must inevitably flow from these truly exceUent institutions. By means of them the arcana of learning are thrown open to aU classes of the commu nity, and we are happy to find that this great blessing seems to be duly appreciated by the inhabitants of Yorkshire. There is not a market town in the County that has not one of those admirable institutions; and doubtless the time is not far distant when they will be introduced into most of the populous villages, as they have been already into some. Yorkshire contains but a twelfth of the population of the United Kingdom, whUe it possesses more than a sixth of the educational institutes, and nearly a sixth of the total members of these institutes. Indeed it would be difficult to point out any County in Great Britain where they are so numerous, in proportion to the population, as in Yorkshire. But a generation ago Mechanics' Institutes did not exist Even so late as fifteen years ago they were very few and scarcely known, now this County alone has certainly more than one hundred and fifty of them. It was only in the year 1833 that Dr. George Birbeck, the originator of them, founded the London Mechanics' Institute, and now the number of institutes and kindred associations throughout Great Britain and Ireland exceeds eight hundred. The original objects of Mechanics' Institutions — the people's coUeges — was to supply to the working classes inducements to mental cultivation after the hours of physical labour, and to give them the means of it ; but it is to be regretted that they have not been generally found more useful to that class. They are more frequented by the middle classes, or by those immediately above the labouring population ; and the cause of this departure from the original principle, is perhaps to be found in the system of teaching which is usually pursued — a system calculated for those who have been already toler ably well educated, and not for those who come from manual labour to learn. This defect may be remedied by applying the system of instruction by classes, not only to the teaching of foreign languages, singing, design, &c., but to the elementary teachings which would be found necessary in the great majority of the cases for which the institution was first established ; and this need not interfere in the least with the system of lectures for the middle or more educated classes in the Institute, if it was found to be acceptable to TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. 643 them. The Yorkshire Union was founded in 1838, and was conflned to the West Eiding until April 1841, when the fourth annual meeting was held in the old buUding of the Institute of York, at which it was resolved that the Union be extended to the whole County. According to the Eeport issued in 1841, only ten Institutions, including an aggregate of 1,560 members, were connected with the Union ; but from the Eeport read at the nineteenth annual meeting of the delegates of the Union, held at Middlesborough, on the 14th May, 1856, we learn that there are 130 Institutions associated, embracing upwards of 30,000 members, whose subscriptions annuaUy amount to nearly £11,000. The number of volumes in their Ubraries is estimated at 350,000. The Union includes amongst its objects the exchange and circulation of lectures and papers among the associated Institutes, and aU institutions are admissible to it. The affairs of the Union are managed by a Central Com mittee, the expenses of which are borne by the associated Institutes. Every year several hundred lectures are delivered, the majority of which are gra tuitous. York and several other towns continue to obtain excellent lists of lectures, provided almost entirely from local talent, and these lectures are in most cases not unfit to compare with professional lectures, and they attract quite as large an attendance ; besides they spare the funds of the Institutes, which are thus available for other important department. The great value of lectures, consists in the stimulus they give to desire and seek infor mation, rather than in the amount of actual information conveyed. The hearer may carry away but few facts, but his field of mental vision is enlarged, his reasoning power is developed, and he has recourse to books to supply his desire for information. An important department of the Union is the Itinerating Village Library. In order to supply the great deficiency which exists in respect to education, and to diffuse Ught and knowledge, with aU their beautiful and beneficent influences and results, though the rural districts of this great County, the Central Committee of the Union have opened a depot of books in Leeds, and organised a plan of operations, whereby those books may be made available to the humblest persons at a merely nominal cost. It is applicable to aU locaUties, and must prove beneflcial to aU who are in earnest after self- itnprovement. Wherever twenty-five persons can be found who are wUUng to pay one penny per ' week for the use of the books, fifty volumes are sent free of carriage, and these books are replaced every six months by fifty others • and for every twenty-flve additional subscribers flfty additional volumes are sent. The advantage of the periodical transfer of the books from one station to another must appear obvious to aU, and therefore needs no comment 644 TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. There are now no less than thirty-six of these Itinerating Libraries connected with the Union. The attention of her Majesty's consort, his Eoyal Highness Prince Albert, has lately been called to the plan of this exceUent institution, and as a mark of his approbation, he has presented to the Union the hand some donation of two hundred and eleven volumes of exceUent works, aU beautifully bound, and on the inside of the cover of each volume is a label with this inscription : — "Presented to the Yorkshire Union of Mechanics' Institutes, by his Royal Highness Prince Albert." The Castle Howard United VUlages Itinerating Library, was commenced on the 1st of January, 1858, at the suggestion of the princely owner of Castle Howard, and its books are now circulated in fifteen viUages round that splendid mansion, besides four sections in the town of Malton. It is in con nection with the Union of Mechanics' Institutes, but is quite independent of the Union Library. The Union of Institutes, and the Libraries, are sup ported in part by the donations of the friends of education iu all parts of the County. The President of the Central Committee is Edward Baines, Esq., and the President of the Committee of the Castle Howard Village Libraries is the Rev. Thomas Myers, Vicar of Sheriff Hutton. York Institute of Popular Science and Literature, St. Saviourgate. — This institution was established in 1837, for the instruction of its members in the principles of the useful and ornamental arts, and in the various other depart ments of useful knowledge. Its original name was " The York Mechanics' Institute," and it is still essentially the same in machinery and design as at first. The neat and commodious building, in which the Institute is held, was erected by the Society, and opened in 1846, with a bazaar and exhibition of paintings, and other works of art. It consists of a lecture hall, news and reading room, class rooms, and library. During the winter lectures are de livered weekly, on experimental philosophy, practical mechanics, astronomy, chemistry, natural history, literature, &c. ; and classes are formed, under competent paid teachers, for instruction in writing, ai;ithmetic, geometry, grammar, composition, and drawing, all of which are open to the members gratuitously. There is also a class for instruction in French, and a chess club, for which an extra fee is required. The members of this institute are divided into three classes, who respectively pay 30s., 10s., and 6s., per ann. ; the third class being exclusively for youths under 18 ¦ years of age. Ladies' subscriptions are 10s. According to the last annual Report of the Society the total number of members was 468. The reading room is open daUy, and the library every evening, Sundays excepted. The lecture room wiU accom modate about 400 persons : the news room is well supplied with the leading TOPOGEAPHY OP YOEK. 645 periodicals and newspapers; and the library contains about 6,000 volumes. A portrait of Dr. Birbeck, the founder of Mechanics' Institutes, which had for some years been suspended in the reading room, and which had been valued at thirty guineas, has lately become the property of the institution, on very advantageous terms. The York Institute is in Union with the Society of Arts, London, and it is also associated with the Yorkshire Union of Me chanics' Institutes. Sir George Cayley, Bart., is the President of the York Institute, and amongst the Vice-Presidents is the Rev. Charles WeUbeloved, a most zealous promoter of its foundation, and one of its most constant and generous benefactors. Yorkshire Architectural Society.' — This Association was instituted in 1841, to promote the study of ecclesiastical architecture, antiquities, and design, the restoration of mutilated architectural remains, and of Churches, or parts of Churches, within the County of York, which may have been desecrated ; and to improve, as far as it may be within its province, the character of ecclesiastical edifices to be erected in future. The patrons of the Society are the Archbishop of York and the Bishop of Ripon ; its Presidents are the Eails of Carlisle and Zetland; and amongst the Vice-Presidents are the Duke of Northumberland, Earls de Grey, Effingham, Dartmouth, and Mex borough ; Iiords Hotham, Feversham, Downe, and WharncUffe ; Sir Henry Boynton, Sir J. H. Lowther, Sir T. D. Digby Legard, Sir J. V. B. Johnstone, the Rev. Sir George Burrard, and the Archdeacons of the Diocese. The Society, which is now composed of about 300 members, who pay an annual subscription of 10s. each, holds three public meetings in each year — one at York, and two in other parts of the County. The Museum of the Society, which is in the Minster Yard, York, contains a good coUection of casts, rubbings of brasses, &c. ; and there is in connection with it a small library of valuable works on architecture. Yorkshire Naturalists' Club. — Established in 1849, for the purpose of bringing the Naturalists of the County into friendly and more frequent com munication with one another, and for collecting facts, carrying on researches &c., bearing upon the natural history of Yorkshire ; and a leading object of the Club is to provide a fund, to be spent in collecting the natural productions of the County, and to distribute the specimens, thus obtained, among the pubUc Museums of the County, the Museum of the Philosophical Society at York to take precedence in this distribution. Meetings of the Club are held monthly, for the election of members, the reading and discussion of papers exhibition of specimens, &c. A Ubrary of standard works on different branches of natural history, is being formed for the use of the members. 646 TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. The present number of members is about 140 ; and the aeaount of subscrip tion is five shillings per annum. When the number of members is raised to 300, it is calculated that, after the payment of the ordinary incidental ex penses, there wUl be £60. per annum, applicable to the scientific objects for which the Club was instituted. The President of the York Naturalists' Club is the Right Hon. Lord Londesborough. Yorkshire Antiquarian Cluh. — This Association was founded in June, 1849, by a few gentlemen interested in antiquarian research, for promoting, first, the accurate knowledge and the careful preservation of the antiquities of Yorkshire ; secondly, to make researches by the opening of, and excavations into, barrows and other earth-works ; and to watch the progress of public works, such as railways, sewers, foundations of buildings, &c. An important feature of the Club is, that it consists of a society of working archaeologists, possessing no coUection of their own, and one of the fundamental rules states, " that all the specimens given to, or discovered by the Club, be de posited in the Museum of the Yorkshire PhUosophical Society.'' By faith fuUy adhering to this plan of proceeding, it has been in their power to add numerous interesting specimens to that fine collection; amongst them a valuable and rare coUection of bronze, bones, and urns, which are now placed in separate cases in the Hospitium. Expeditions have been made by the members of the Club, and tumuU examined in several locaUties, and much curious and important information have been obtained respecting the ancient inhabitants of Yorkshire. Drawings of the locaUties and objects found, es peciaUy the vases, with plans of any peculiar distribution of tumuli, are re tained in the portfoUo of the Society. The meetings of the Club are held every two months, in Archbishop Holgate's School Room; the present num ber of members of the Club is about eighty; and the amount of annual subscription is very smaU. The Rev. Charles WeUbeloved is the President, and WiUiam Proctor, Esq., the Honorary Secretary. Lecture HaU. — This spacious apartment was erected in 1845, at a cost of about £8,500., by the York Total Abstinence Society, and is situated behind a Temperance Inn, in Goodramgate. It is gaUeried round three sides, and wiU accommodate about 1,000 persons. Temperance and other public meetings are held in it. LiBEAEiES. — The York Subscription lAhrary was instituted in 1794, by a few inteUigent and spirited individuals, viz: — Sir WiUiam Strickland, S. W. NichoU, Esq., Rev. C. WeUbeloved, Anthony Thorpe, Esq., and others. These gentlemen formed themselves into a Society, for the purpose of pur chasing the pamphlets, and other Ught literary productions of the day. They TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. 647 were then deposit*! at the house of a member of the Society, and the coUec tion was at certain periods sold, and more modern productions purchased from the general fund thus augmented. The number of members increasing, a plan was suggested of erecting an edifice by subscription shares, distinct from the book society. Accordingly some old houses were purchased in St. Helen's Squar,e, at the corner of Lendal, and upon their site a commodious buUding was erected in 1818. Here the library continued until 1836, when it was removed to the fine and spacious rooms now occupied by it, in No. 1, St. Leonard's Place. The site of the old building is now occupied by the hand some ediflce, containing the offices of the Yorkshire Insurance Company. The library — which now occupies five rooms, fltted up with cases, the largest room (a very fine one) having a gallery around it — consists of about 80,000 volumes, among which are many valuable works, and the best current literature of the day ; besides the Transactions of the PhUosophical, Archseo logical, Geological, and other scientific societies, which are regularly pur chased as soon as pubUshed; Hansard's Parliamentary Debates, and the Statutes at large. The Public Record Room, which contains a large coUection of the Eecords of the nation, presented by the Government, is open to aU persons in the County, who may have occasion to consult them. The Beading Boom is well suppUed with the principal magazines and reviews— about £60. a year being devoted to their purchase — but no newspapers are admitted. Indeed this library, considering its extent, is extremely valuable. The Society now consists of about 350 members; the annual subscription is £1. 6s., but each subscriber must be the holder of a ticket, which has to be pur chased. The library, &c., is open daUy, Sundays excepted. The Select Subscription Library, in Blake Street, was established in 1818, for the purpose of supplying good reading, at a moderate price, to those whose circumstances precluded their subscribing to the more expensive libra ries. It consists of nearly 3,000 volumes, weU selected. The terms of subscription are an entrance fee of one guinea, and 10s. a year ; such sub scription constituting a proprietorship. Each proprietor has the privilege of recommending persons in humbler circumstances as gratuitous readers. The Cathedral Library and the Medical Libraries, are noticed in other parts of this volume, and some smaller libraries in connection with news rooms are noticed below. News Eooms. — There are two Subscription News Rooms in Blake Street; and in Fossgate is the Working Mens' News and Reading Room. The latter was established in 1865, and there is a small lending library in connection with it. Free lectures are delivered in this room during the winter months. (348 TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. The -York Railway Station Library and Reading Room* — This institution was opened in the month of May, 1855, for the benefit of the numerous workmen and youths residing in this City, and who are in the employment of the North Eastern Eailway Company. Captain O'Brien, the general manager of the North Eastern Eailway, is the President of the Society, and the institution is well calculated to promote the social, intellectual, and moral well-being of the classes brought within its influence. During the winter season lectures are delivered to the members of the Society. Nbwspapees. — There are three Newspapers pubUshed in York every Saturday : — The York Herald (with which the " York Courant," estabUshed in 1780, is now incorporated) was flrst issued on the 8nd of January, 1790. This paper is Uberal in poUtics, and has a circulation of nearly 6,000 weekly, extending over the Counties of York, Lincoln, Lancaster, and the other northern Counties. The proprietors are Mr. WiUiam Hargrove, and his two sons, Messrs. Alfred Ely Hargrove and WiUiam WaUace Hargrove. The Yorkshireman, established in 1884, is a joint stock property, and has a pretty fair circulation. Its poUtics are liberal. The Yorkshire Gazette is the property of a Company of resident proprietors. It was established on the 84th of AprU, 1819, and the " York Chronicle," established in 1773, was amalgamated with it some years ago. The Gazette advocates conservative principles. RAILWAYS. — The formation of railways is closely connected with the interests of York, and the ancient City might have lost much of its impor tance but for the introduction of these iron highways. The plain of York afforded great natural facilities for the construction of railways, whilst the geological features of the neighbourhood of Leeds presented as formidable obstacles ; and it is owing, in a great measure, to this that York is now the centre of a system of railways radiating in every direction. The York and North Midland RaUway Company was formed for the making and maintenance of a railway from York to Normanton, near Wakefield, a distance of twenty-four miles. On the 30th of May, 1839, it was opened to the Milford Junction, where it joins the Leeds and Selby line ; and iu May, 1840, it was opened to Normanton, where it unites with the Midland Rail way, and forms a direct line to London. The York and North Midland is the connecting link between the two extremities of the chain of railways on ,the eastern side of the island, commencing at Dover and extending to Edin burgh. The York and North Midland has several branch raUways in con nection with the main line, viz : — from York to the fashionable coast town of TOPOGEAPHY OP YOEK. D4» Scarborough (op^ed in 1846), through Malton, joining the Whitby and Pickering line at the latter place; the branch to Market Weighton; and that from Church Fenton to Harrogate. The Une to Knaresborough was opened in 1846, by the East and West Yorkshire RaUway Company, but in 1853 it was purchased by the York and North Midland Company. The great North of England Eailway between York and Darlington, was opened on the 31st of March, 1841. This line is carried over the Ouse at Poppleton, by a viaduct 800 feet long. In 1860 the Company to whom this line belonged amalgamated with the Darlington and Newcastle, and the Newcastie and Berwick, Eailway Companies, and the whole line was thence forward caUed the York, Newcastle, and Berwick Railway. 'The distance from York to Berwick is 160 mUes. This line is celebrated for the High Level Bridge across the Tyne at Newcastle, a work of immense magnitude, and by far the largest of the kind in the Kingdom. In June, 1864, the York and North Midland, the York, Newcastle, and Berwick, and the Leeds Northern lines, were all amalgamated by Act of Parliament, and became the property of one body, under the name of the North Eastern RaUway Company. The length of the three united Unes and their branches is 688 miles. The Great Northern RaUway, whioh joins the York and North Midland line near Burton Salmon, was opened in 1850. This line affords another and a much shorter means of communication with London. By means of these lines there is now a complete railway communication from east to west, from HuU to Liverpool ; and from south to north, there is a direct line from London to Edinburgh and Glasgow, through York. It is now possible to accomplish the joumey from York to London and back in less than twenty hours ! allowing an hour for the transaction of business. Railway Station. — At the opening of the York and North Midland Railway, in 1889, a temporary station was constructed without the waUs of the City, and it so continued until the beginning of 1841, when the present elegant and commodious structure was opened. Since its erection it has been greatly enlarged, and it is now the chief station of the amalgamated Companies as well as of the Great Northern Company. It is in the ItaUan style of architecture, and consists of two ranges of buildings, connected at the east end by a large and handsome hotel, erected in 1863. The principal front of the Station is opposite Tanner Row, with a building corresponding to it fronting the City waUs ; and the whole area, including the Station, is covered by a cast-iron roof, of ingenious and be&tiful design. 4 0 650 TOPOGEAPHY OP YOEK. After proceeding from the Station, the lines of railway pass under the City, walls, which are perforated by two large Tudor arches, each seventy feet wide. Connected with the raUway there are numerous large and convenient workshops, engine sheds, foundries, &c. Here are manufactured almost entirely the engines, carriages, &c., of the North Eastern RaUway Company. The number of persons employed in the station, workshops, &c., is about 1,300, who receive in wages £3,700. fortnightly, or £70,000. per annum. The erection of this Station has transformed a remote and retired part of the City into a scene of vivacity and commercial activity. During the exca vation of the ground necessary for the formation of the Station, as weU as for making the railway between the Station and Holdgate Bridge, numerous Roman remains were found, consisting principally of sepulchral remains; and on the site of the Station were discovered portions of a Roman Bath, and some tesselated pavements, the whole of Which have been deposited in the Museum of the City. The space between the Station and the City waUs was formerly called Friars' Gardens, and is supposed to have been the site of a Dominican Friary. Gas Works. — The " York Gas Company " was incorporated by Act of Par liament in 1888, and the streets of the City were first Ughted with gas on the 83nd of March, 1834. The works of this Company were erected near Monk Bridge. In 1836 another body, called the "York Union Gas Com pany," was established, and they had their works near the Foss, in Hungate. Both of these bodies amalgamated in 1844, under the style and titie of the York United Gas light Company; and in 1847 the works of both were con centrated on the ground of the original Company. The buildings are of red brick; there are two gasometers, which wiU contain 300,000 cubic feet of gas; the largest one is 80. feet in diameter, and rises 50 feet, and when it was erected, in 1847, it was the largest in the County. At the same time the works were considerably enlarged and improved, and a new retort house and chimney built. This fine chimney, which is in the form of a Doric column, is remarkable for its close resemblance in form, as well as of its being about the same general dimensions, as the celebrated Trajan pUlar at Rome, In ancient times, before the introduction of oil and gas, part of the pro clamation, annually made by the Sheriffs in York, was as foUows : — " Also we command that no manner of man walk in the City, or in the suburbs, by night, without Ught before him, i, e, from Pasche (Easter) to Michaelmas, after ten of the clock ; and from Michaelmas to Pasche, after nine of the clock," The houses of the nobility and gentry formerly had niches at their TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. 651 doors, in which a large extinguisher was placed, which was used for the pur pose of extinguishing flambeaux, carried by servants at night before their masters, as they went and returned from their nocturnal revels. One of the remaining examples of these niches may be seen at the door of the large house at the end of Blake Street, near the Theatre, which was erected by Sir WiUiam Eobinson, Bart. ; and one of the huge extinguishers stiU remains attached to a house in Petergate. When Edward IV. was in York, one hundred torches were Ughted on the occasion, the inference being that the citizens were at other times left to grope their way as best they could. In the time of Charles TL., the City was Ughted by twenty-four large lanterns placed at the corners of the streets. The Act of 1833 required that the newly formed Company should Ught the City better and cheaper with gas than could be done with oil. York Waterworks. — Lendal Tower, one of the ancient towers of defence for the City, was let by the Corporation to Eichard Whistler, a London Mer chant, in 1677, for the purpose of erecting. Waterworks in it; but it was not tiU the year 1683 that the works were completed. The lease of the tower was granted for 500 years, at the annual rent of a Peppercorn. An engine, worked by two horses, was then placed in it, and the water was raised from the Ouse, and conveyed through the City by means of wooden pipes. The works were afterwards purchased by Colonel Thornton, who considerably im proved the whole, enlarged the buUding, introduced a steam engine, and added bathing rooms to the tower. From this gentleman the estabUshment descended to his son, also a Colonel, from whom it was purchased in 1799, by the late Waterworks Company, who raised the tower considerably, and made other additions; and who, in 1836, erected a new engine house near the tower, to which the engine was then removed. A new Company was estabUshed in 1846, with a capital of £60,000., raised in shares of £10. each; and they purchased the old works at Lendal Tower, for £38,000. ; and in 1849 removed them to Acomb Landing, on the opposite bank of the Ouse, about two miles above the City. The new works were de signed by Mr. James Simpson, civil engineer, of London, and consist of two subsiding reservoirs, and three filter beds, with two steam engines, each capable of working to about sixty horse-power; tanks, wells, conduits, pipes, and other apparatus for raising the water from the river, performing the pro cess of filtration, and afterwards lifting the water to the high service reser voir on Severus HiU, for distribution, through metal pipes, over the City and suburbs. This great reservoir, which is nearly a mile from the works, is formed in the centre of that celebrated tumuli, which tradition points to as gga TOPOGEAPHY OF YOEK. the spot upon which the body of the Eoman Emperor Severus had been reduced to ashes. • Public Baths. — ^In the above account of the original Waterworks at Lendal, we have observed that Colonel Thornton added some bathing rooms to them. These baths, which are suppUed with hot and cold water, still continue to be the property of the Waterworks Company.* The Swimming Baths, in Marygate, were the property of a Joint Stock Company, with a capital of £8,500., in £5. shares, but these have been pur chased by the Council of the PhUosophical Society, upon whose property they stand. The Bath Company was formed in 1836, and the baths were opened in the foUowing year. The large bath is 180 feet by 80. Shower baths have since been added. Cavalry Barracks. — These barracks were built on the Fulford Eoad, about one mUe from the City, in 1796, at an expense of £37,000., and including the spacious yard, they occupy twelve acres of ground. The centre buUding ¦wiU accommodate eighteen officers; and the wings will quarter 337 soldiers, 330 horses, and 34 hospital patients, MUitia Depot, Lowther Street, Groves, — This building was erected for the stores of the 8nd West York Light Infantry Eegiment of Militia, and con sists of a guard room, several store rooms, three ceUs, and houses for the adjutant and quarter master. Banks, — Messrs. Swann, Clough, S Co., Coney Street ; draw on Sir R, C, ¦ Eichard III. was at York on the 1st of May, 1484; at Middleham on tiie 6th; at Durham on the ISth; at Scarborough on the 22nd; on the 27th at York; from the SOih of May to the 13th of June, at Pontefract : from the 14th to the 25th, at York ; and from the 30th of June to the 11th of July, at Scarborough.— Harl. MSS. HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 687 and intrepidity of the Governor, the furious assailants were obUged to abandon the enterprize with confusion and disgrace. At page 197 of this volume, it is noted how Mr. Stafford, in the year 1554, obtained possession of Scarborough Castle, by stratagem, and retained pos session of it for three days. Mr. Stafford's manner of taking the fortress, gave rise to a proverbial expression, still commonly used in the neighbour hood: "A Scarborough warning; a word and a blow, but the blow first.'' From this period to that of the " Great Civil War" of the seventeenth century, there are few memorable incidents upon record, relative to Scarborough or its Castle.* During the latter calamitous period, the Castle was twice besieged and taken by the Parliamentary army, viz., by Sir Matthew Boynton, 35th of July, 1646; and by Colonel Bethel,' 39th of December, 1648. Shortly after the surrender of York, Sir William Constable was appointed by Lord Fairfax, to conduct the Siege of Scarborough Castle. On the 39th of April, 1644, an order was issued by the Corporation, that_" three months' provision should be made by every inhabitant of the town;" preparatory to the ap proaching siege. A.bout the year 1645, the importance of the place induced the Parliament to send Sir John Meldrum, a Scottish officer of fortune, who had lately distinguished himself in the defence of Hull, against the King's forces, to succeed Sir WilUam Constable. On the 18th of February, 1645, about ten o'clock, Scarborough was stormed in four places by the English and Scotch soldiers, who gained the town and the Church of St. Mary, with the loss of eleven men. In the Church they took eighty soldiers, and the Governor of Helmsley Castle. Sir Hugh Cholmley perceiving the town Ukely to be lost, fled into the Castle, and was pursued, and one of the works was taken ; but the White Tower in the Castle commanding it, they beat out Meldrum 's men with stones. Meldrum took in the town and Church, thirty-two pieces of ordnance, with store of arms and other prize; and in the haven one hundred and twenty ships.f Sir John now regularly invested the Castle, and being con vinced of the great natural strength of its situation, exerted all his skiU and precaution to reduce it, by erecting batteries in the most convenient situa tions; and by establishing out-posts to intercept the supplies, in order to ¦• An account of the rise and progress of this war wiU be found in this volume, begin ning with the accession of Charles I,, at page 211. + Another account of this assault states that, before the storming, Sir Hugh was sum moned to yield the town, but he gave a peremptory refusal, and when the townsmen would have surrendered, he brought soldiers out of the Castle and compeUed the defence to be continued. 688 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH, compel the garrison to surrender by the pressure of famine. On the hiU above Peaseholme vale, about three quarters of a mUe to the north of the Castle, may yet be seen vestiges of one of these smaU batteries. It is a regular pentagon in form, and is entirely grown over with a verdant turf,* The south bay and road were commanded by a battery, lately remaining, upon Ramsdel CUff,t above the dropping spring; but the most formidable works were erected nearer the Castle, Sir John having made a lodgment with his troops in the Church of St, Mary, conveyed several pieces of artiUery into it in the night, and opened a battery from the east window; but the garrison made such a vigorous and weU directed fire, that the choir of the Church was demoUshed, and the ruins yet standing at the eastern part of the Church yard are monuments of this desolation. The able defence made by Sir Hugh Cholmley, rendered the siege tedious and difficult to the assailants ; but the works by incessant battering were greatly injured, and the garrison was weakened by fatigue and sickness. On the 84th of March, 1645, Sir John Meldrum having ascended a rock to recon noitre, and to view a convenient place to plant his cannon against the Castle, was blown down by a violent wmd and bruised by the faU, A letter in the Perfect Occurrences, Sc, written in the same month says " that the besiegers with their battering pieces had made some breaches, but so high upon the hiU as not to be comeatable, " and besides,'' continues the writer, " the Castle has been so Uned within with earth, that it is of little use to make such batteries ; and to undermine is impracticable, as the Castle is founded on a main rock. It is therefore feared that the Castle is so strong and well pro vided, that it wiU prove very difficult of reduction." On the 5th of May the besiegers attempted to storm the fortress, but were repulsed with the \osi of twenty men ; and on the 11th Sir John commenced operations for another attack. On this occasion, in order to divert the attention of the Governor, he made two different assaults ; one at the gate which led to the entrance to '" Some think this was an out-post to guard the road and North Sand Beach, and pre vent any communication from that quarter. It is said that the markets were prohibited in the town during the siege, but that the inhabitants had permission, under certain restrictions to attend one which was kept at Peaseholme. + It is supposed that the town, before it was taken by storm, was cannonaded from this point, as mention is said to have been made in an old parish register of burials in the year 1644, " of the town being beleaguered by the Parliaments forces, and that several persons were then killed by cannon balls from a battery on Eamsdel Mount." When the CUff Bridge was buUt, in 1827, several cannon balls were found below the site of this batteiy, most probably shot returned from the besieged. HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 689 the Castie, and the other at the southern extremity of the waU, towards the sea, where stood a lofty tower, taken down in 1730, known by the name of Charles's Tower. The outer gate of the Castle being in a ruinous state the besiegers gained an easy admission in that part, and they penetrated to the inner one at the foot of the grand tower ; but there they met with the most desperate resistance, and were so furiously assailed with stones and other missiles, that they were repulsed with great slaughter. During this conflict Sir John Meldrum, at the head of a chosen body of troops, led them to the attack at the foot of Charles's Tower. The access to this part was protected by a precipice of difficult ascent, and the contest here was more severe and bloody than at the gate ; but the assailants were compelled to abandon the attack with considerable loss, several of their best officers were killed, and their commander. Sir John Meldrum, received a mortal wound, of which he died on the 3rd of June. Another version of this conflict states that Major Crompton, with 150 men, made a gallant sally from the Castle, and feU desperately on the besiegers in BusheU's Fort and the gate-house ; that the common soldiers at flrst feU back and left their officers engaged, that the soldiers " took heart again and sud denly regained the gate-house and what they had lost, beat their opponents again into the Castle and took the bridge, whereby they were more straitened than before ; and that Sir John Meldrum shewed extraordinary valour in the action, and received a dangerous wound through the belly and into the thigh. The reduction of this fortress appears to have been so very desirable object with the ParUament, that Sir Matthew Boynton was appointed to succeed Sir John Meldrum, who brought a strong reinforcement with him, and the siege was renewed with the utmost vigour, and continued without intermis sion, tiU the 33nd of July, 1645, when the fortification being ruined by inces sant battery, the stores nearly exhausted, the garrison worn out by excessive fatigue and sickness, and entirely dispirited, the valiant and loyal Governor, Sir Hngh Cholmley, seeing no prospect of relief, after having defended the fortress for more than twelve months, surrendered it, after a long treaty, upon honourable terms. The garrison was greatly reduced in number by the scurvy, which had caused a dreadful mortality. Many of the soldiers that remained were in so weak a condition, that some were carried out in sheets, others were obUged to be supported by two of their comrades, and others were unfit to march. The women of Scarborough, it is said, could hardly be kept from stoning Sir Hugh. The substance of the articles of the surrender of the Castie were as foUows : — 1.— That the Castle be surrendered on the 85th of July, 1645, and that 4 T 690 HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. aU the arms, ordnance, ammunition, provisions, &c., in and about the fortress (except what is hereafter excepted), shall be delivered up to the Parliament's commanders, " to the use of the King and Parliament." 8. — That aU prisoners in the Castie be set at liberty within six hours after the sealing of these articles. 3.— That the Governor, Sir Hugh Cholmley, and the other officers and " gentlemen soldiers," if they desire it, shaU have a safe convoy from hence into Holland, or be safely conveyed to Newark, whether they shaU choose ; and if any, after their coming to Newark, shaU then resolve to go into HoUand, giving notice thereof, within six days, to the Committee of Military Affairs at York, they shaU have passes from thence to take shipping at HuU, Soar- borough, or Bridlington ; and " such other who desire passes shaU have them from the said Committee, to go to the King's army or any of his garrisons, as they please, traveUing not above twenty in a company, where the Governor or Colonel shall be in person ; otherwise not above ten in company; the time to be permitted in their several passes, as the distance of the place to go to shaU require ; none of them passing through any garrison for the King, if there be another way." 4. — That no person whatever going from this Castie be plundered, arrested, or staid upon any ground or pretence whatsoever ; and in such case, upon complaint made to the aforesaid Committee at York, to be speedUy redressed. 5. — That Lady Cholmley shaU have liberty to live at her own house at Whitby, and enjoy such part of her estate as is aUowed by ordinance of Par liament ; that she may have two men servants and two horses, to carry herself, and such necessary things as shall be granted her, 6. That all inferior officers, common soldiers, and others, who desire to live at home, shaU have passes granted them for that end, and shaU not be forced to take up arms "against their mindes;" that the sick and wounded shall be provided for till their recovery, and then have passes to travel to what place they please, 7. That the Governor, all field officers. Captains, Lieutenants, and Cornets of horse, march on their own horses with swords, pistols, &c,, three servants allowed for the Governor, and one for every field officer; and that aU other officers and soldiers shaU march on foot, with their swords, and not be com peUed to march more than ten miles a day, 8, — That aU officers and soldiers may carry upon their persons what is really their own, 9,, — That every officer, gentieman, or clergyman may have Uberty to buy aiSTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUajI, 691 or lawfuUy procure a travelUng horse for himself and his servant ; and that all sick and lame men may enjoy the same privilege, 10, — That all gentlemen of quaUty and clergymen have liberty to march : gentlemen with their swords ; and that none carry above the value of five pounds in money or in plate, about their persons, 11, — That any one violating or offending against any of these articles, shall be delivered to the Commander-in-Chief, where the offence shall be committed, to give satisfaction for his offence. These articles are signed " H, Cholmley," and attested by " Tho, Gower," Lieutenant Colonel; "Tho, Crompton," Major; and "Richard Legard," Captain of the besieged garrison, A scarce pamphlet in the British Museum states that " there were taken in the Castle of Scarborough (after this siege), 5 brass pieces of ordnance, 30 iron pieces of ordnance ; some field pieces, 1,000 armes ; a great quantity of powder, match, bullets, and other ammunition ; all Cholmley's bag and bag gage,'' The foUowing are a few of the persons of note recorded as having faUen during this memorable siege : — Sir John Meldrum, Lieut-Col, Cock- erain, Lieut-Col, Stanley (half brother to Sir Hugh Cholmley), Lieut-Col, Viccarman, Major Dent, Captain Birkett, and Captain Pearson or Piercy, on the side of the Parliamentarians or besiegers ; and Lord Viscount Dunbar, Sir Henry Constable, Captain Gower, Captain Walbank, Captain Evans, and Mr, Michael Wharton on the side of the Royalists, Of such consequence was the surrender of this Castle esteemed by the Parliament, that there appears on the journals of the House of Commons, 19th of August, 1645, " A day appointed for a Thansgiving to Almighty God, for his late mercies vouchsafed to the Parliament's forces in the taking of Scarborough Castle, and some other places." We have observed at page 854 of this volume, that during this siege square-shaped silver coins were issued. The foUowing account of the damage sustained by the town of Scarborough during the siege, was presented to Parliament in November, 1646, by Sir Matthew Boynton, Bart., and Luke Robinson, Esq. " That the Towne had been impoverished by various oppressions, both by the royal party and the Parliament's forces:" " 1. — Disabled in their shipping, by the taking away the sales, cables, anchors, and furniture belonging to them. 8.^— That several of the ships are totaUy spoyled with continuance of lyeing on the sand, having no proper persons to look after them. And that many were disabled by the enemy from ever going to sea again, whereby they have lost to tho value of £3,000. 693 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. at least, besides the loss of the benefit of trading. 3. — That the Towne being taken by storme, the ships were made prizes of by the soldiers, and the owners forced to pay one fourth of the value for their release." " The Towne sustained these further losses since the army came before it :" " 1. — The waste and spoyl which have been made of the grounds belonging to the Towne, there having beene no profit at aU received thereof; but the herbage totaUy eaten up by the souldiers horses, to the great impoverishment of the Towne. 3. — SpoiUng of their Conduit, which brought water in leaden pipes to the Towne, a mile from thence, by puUing up and breaking the pipes. 3. — Their Churche wholly ruinated, except the walls and some part of the roof, which was formerly in good repaire. 4.— Their four mills belonging the Towne totally puUed downe. 5. — The charges they have beene att for making workes, for timber and deals for the platformes, their providing can dles and fuell for the army ever since the Towne was reduced, which doth still continue. 6. — Them that were formerly the ablest men of the Towne have had their estates sequestered to the pubUque use, soe that we have wanted, and stiU doe want their contributions towards these great charges. 7. — That whereas there is but xxviij£. per ann,, for the maintenance of a preaching minister att Scarborough, there may be some course taken (by the Committee for plundered ministers, or otherwise) for procureing ix£, more to be added to it, to be paid yearly for that purpose," " The valuation of the losses (exclusive of the shipping) : — The spoile of the ground three yeares and more, £600,; the Conduit pipes renewing, £300, ; the repaireing of the Church, £600, ; the new building three MUls, and one quite gone, £300, ; and the charges of Works, £300," It does not appear what compensation was aUowed on account of these damages — pro bably none — excepting that an order was issued from Chancery in 1646, for remitting the payment of the fee-farm rent for three years, viz,, 1643, 1644, and 1645, There are other petitions to ParUament on record, for long arrears of pay advanced by the town to the soldiers of the garrison. Here we shaU digress a littie to give a short account of the gaUant defender of Scarborough Castie, during this memorable siege. Sir Hugh Cholmley was of an ancient and honourable family, and was born in Roxby, near Thornton, in the year 1600. After receiving a Uberal education at Beverley and at Cambridge, he was admitted to the Inns at Court, where he obtained a considerable knowledge of the law. In 1684 he was chosen Member of ParUament for the Borough of Scarborough. In 1641 he was created a Baronet of Great Britain ; and King Charles having the same year convoked a Parliament, Sir Hugh was for the third time chosen a Burgess therein for HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 693 Scarborough, and subsequently appointed Governor of the Castle. After' the siege of that fortress, he embarked at BridUngton for HoUand, " leaving my dear wife," to use his own words, not above ten pounds in her purse, nor myself above five more than would discharge my passage ; for though my good brother Sir Henry Cholmley, had sent me £300. at my coming out of the Castle, I had distributed it among the officers and soldiers to relieve their distresses." Sir Hugh continued in exile until 1649, when his brother Henry found means to pacify the Parliament, and obtained permission for his return to England. Lady Elizabeth Cholmley, wife of Sir Hugh, was daughter to Sir William Twisden, Bart., of East Peckham, Kent. She was with her husband in Scarborough Castle during the siege, and distinguished herself by displaying a courage above her sex, as well as by an extraordinary devoted ness towards the sick and wounded. She died in 1656, and was interred at Peckham Church, and after her decease. Sir Hugh left Whitby, where he had hitherto resided, and lived for the most part among his friends in Kent, untU the time of his own death, in 1657. The town of Whitby was much benefitted by the patronage of Sir Hugh Cholmley, more especiaUy in the improvement of the piers. By an inscription on one of the towers at the entrance of the Castle, the gateway seems to have been repaired in 1645 ; and a vote was passed in the House of Commons, 8nd of May, 1648, for £5,000., towards repairing the works at Scarborough. Sir Matthew Boynton, who had been appointed Go vemor of the Castle, in 1645, and who was also a representative of the Borough in ParUament, died in 1647; and in 1648, Colonel Matthew Boynton, his second son and successor in the government of the Castle, having declared for the King, the town and fortress sustained another siege, which appears to have commenced early in August in the same year. Colonel Bethel was ordered by the ParUament to block up the Castie with two regi ments; but upon his first approach, a Captain and some other officers deserted him, and went in to Colonel Boynton. On the 9th of August a severe skirmish took place, which is thus described in a scarce tract printed in London, but dated Falsgrave, August 11th, 1648. " Since the revolting of Scarborough, and Colonel Bointon declaring for the King, here hath hap pened some action very considerable, which is as foUoweth : — on Wednesday last, Colonel Bethell with his regiment of Horse, and Colonel Legard with his regiment of Foot, faced the town and Castle, which caused action. Col onel Bointon (the Governor) drew forth a party of Horse and Foot. Colonel BetheU did the Uke, the said forlorn engaged and disputed the ground. The encounter was great, and gallantly maintained by both parties ; inasmuch 694 filSTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. that some blood was spUt ; and divers heroick spirits sacrificed their Uves at the point of the sword, and seven gallant charges were made by forlorners of Horse, till at the last Colonel Bethell's men being overpowered, retreated the cavalry pursuing. Whereupon Colonel BetheU advanced with his whole bodie, Colonel Bointon makes towards him, both parties engaged, and after some dispute our men became victorious, routed the enemie's whole bodie; pursued the enemie to the Castie-gates, doing great execution ; beate the Foote downe the cUff, who for expedition, divers of them tumbled downe the rocks and broke their necks. In this action and bloody conflict, we took about seventeen prisoners, kiUed twenty on the place, and vanquished the rest, with the losse of fifteen men kiUed and wounded. Colonel Bethell with his forces lies at Falsgrave, a quarter of a mile from Scarborough Town ; and so soon as a considerable partie comes up, intends to lay close siege to the Castle." About the middle of September, Colonel Bethel took the town of Scar borough by storm, four only of the assailants being killed, and eighteen of the besieged ; and 150 were made prisoners. Some WaUoons, whom the soldiers took for Irishmen, were put to the sword. The siege of the Castie was then carried on with great spirit until the beginning of December, when the common soldiers in the garrison grew mutinous, and the Governor was obliged to capitulate; so that, on the 15th of December (1648), the fortress was again surrendered to the Parliament, and taken possession of in their name by Colonel Bethel. The effect of the articles of rendition is as foUows : — " 1. — ^The Castle, with all the ordnance, arms, and other goods, and provisions, to be deUvered up without embezzlement, except what is hereafter mentioned. 3. — That the Governor, officers, gentiemen, and soldiers of the said Castle, should march out with their wearing apparel, their colours flying, drums beating, musquets laden, bandaleers fiUed, matches lighted, and buUet in mouth, to Scarborough Common, and there to lay down their arms. 3. — The Governor to march with his horse and arms, and three servants on horseback to attend with their swords, to the place he shaU appoint : every Field-officer on horse back, with his sword and pistols, and two servants on horseback with their swords : every Captain on horseback, with his sword and pistols, and one servant to attend him : aU common officers and gentiemen on foot, with one pistol and sword : all other officers and soldiers, with their swords to their own habitations, there to remain without molestation, submitting to all orders and ordinances of ParUament, 4. — That free quarter shall be granted to aU included in these articles, in their passages to their several habitations ; HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 695 they travelling eight miles in a day. 5. — That aU gentlewomen within the said Castle shall be suffered to pass out with their wearing apparel, money, and necessaries ; to pass to such places as shall be nominated, and to procure or hire horses. 6. — That aU persons included within these articles, under sequestration, shaU have liberty to compound. 7. — That all persons in the town of Scarborough, shaU upon this agreement, be set at liberty. 8. — In case any officer or soldier shall do anything contrary to this agreement, they shall be delivered up to punishment. 9. — That a sufficient convoy be appointed, " According to Whitelocke 's Memorials, the cause of giving such favourable articles " was by reason of information, that several ships with men and pro visions from the Prince were destined thither, and expected every hour for the relief of the Castle, There was in the Castle good store of provision, especially of rye and butter ; and at least fifty barrels of powder, and great store of match, so that it might be held out three months," On the reduction of the Castle, Colonel Bethel was appointed Governor, and the distress of the town was very great. At a Common HaU held on the 18th of February, 1649, it was ordered that the Bailiffs " do acquaint Colonel Bethel with the present poverty of the town, and that the poor are so many, and the town so unable to maintain them, that many of them are ready to starve, and therefore in respect to our insufficiency, we are not able to quarter soldiers ; and for that we conceive ouselves to be as free as Hull, Lynn, Boston, and other towns where garrisons are, we desire and expect the like privilege with them ; and that no soldiers may be forced to quarter upon us, or with us in private houses, but at such places where they can agree to pay for their lodgings and diet, as is usual in other garrisons ; and all now present mutuaUy engage to join in freeing the town accordingly, in case the Colonel shall deny them or make opposition therein." The Colonel, in reply expressed himself very sensible of the poverty of the town, but urged the necessity for aUowing the soldiers to be quartered upon the inhabitants for a fortnight or three weeks longer, tiU he got an answer to his letter about an estabUshment for the garrison ; " and if there be not a speedy course taken for provision for the soldiers," said he, " in such a way that they may not be chargeable on the town, I wUl throw in my commission rather than stay to see the town quite impoverished and ruined." On which the Common HaU held on the 33rd of February, agreed that for two weeks from Monday next (the 86th), " they would be wiUing to lend such soldiers as should faU to their several propor tions, three shiUings a piece for each week, to get themselves quarters where 696 HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. they can agree ; if the Governor wiU engage himself for the re-payment thereof: but not to be forced to entertain the soldiers at their private houses." On the 14th of March, 1649, the House of Commons ordered the Com mittee of Excise to respite the coUecting of the duty arising in the town of Scarborough during the time of the late siege. The House Ukewise ordered that Captain Brown BusheU* should be tried for his life, and that Colonel Matthew Boynton, the late Governor, shaU likewise be so prescribed and his estate confiscated. It may be added that Colonel Boynton was slain at Wigan, in the advance of the army of Charles II. out of Scotland, towards Worcester. It does not appear certain whether Scarborough Castie was ordered by the Parliament to be demoUshed after the last surrender ; hut it is very probable that it was, as the two long sieges within five years had been a serious check to the party then predominant. Dr. Wittie, in his work on " Scarborough Spaw," pubUshed in 1660, states that the Castie was then in ruins, but ascribes its dilapidation to the former siege in 1645 ; but the present condi tion of the ruin evidentiy shows, that the final demolition of the north-west front has been effected by explosion, and not by bombardment or storm.-|- The site of the Castie was granted by James I., in the year 1684, to John * Captain Brown BusheU was an expert seaman and Captain of a man-of-war. He appears to have openly revolted from the ParUament, and joined the King's forces, and although after the termination of the war, he lived some years in England unnoticed, yet, in 1648, he was taken into custody for his former desertion, and after being detained prisoner about three years was brought to trial, found gmlty, and executed on the 29th of April, 1651. There is a small head of BusheU engraved in the frontispiece to Win. Stanley's Loyal Martyrology, 1665, Svo. An outwork near the enti-ance gate of the Castle, still bears the name of BusheU's Battery. + The Scarborough Guide, pubUshed in 1787, gives two remarkably providential escapes from destruction which were experienced by two females during these calami- itous times : the one during the siege, and the other from a ship's gun in the harbour. The first, being engaged at needlework, having found it difficult, in the twilight, to thread her needle at an east window where she sat, went to a west one that she might see to accomplish it. At that moment a glancing shot, whioh had been fired from the Castie towards St. Mary's Church, came iu at the window she had just quitted, and tore everything in its way to atoms, but without injuring the good sempstress. The other, whUe spinning in an upper room at the Old Globe Inn, chanced to drop her spindle, and as she stooped to pick it up, a cannon ball passed directly over her, striking the distaff to pieces, which stood in the very place her head must have occupied had she not at that moment been stooping to the ground. " There is a special proridence," wrote the immortal bard, "even in the fall of a sparrow" — ^paraphrasing, as it were, a beautiful passage in Holy Writ. HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 697 Ramsey, Earl of Holderness ; and it afterwards appears to have passed into the possession of WUUam Thompson, Esq,, M.P. for Scarborough, who restored it to the Crown in the reign of Charles II. Sir Jordan Crossland, ¦ Knt., was the first Governor after the restoration of the monarchy, having received this appointment on the 7th of July, 1660, for his good services to his Majesty during the late wars ; and on his death in 1670, Sir John Reresby succeeded as Governor. Since then the following are recorded as holding that appointment — which was always considered more honourable than lucrative. In 1708, Anthony Duncombe, Esq, ; 1715, WiUiam Thomp son, Esq,, M,P, for Scarborough ; 1774, John HiU, Esq., of Thornton ; 1761, John Catherwood, Esq., Capt, Royal Inv. Artillery ; 1774, Sir Hugh Palliser, Bart., Vice-Admiral, M.P. for Scarborough ; 1796, Henry, Earl of Mulgrave, G,0,B,, a General in the army ; and in 1831, Sir George Don, G,C,B,, another General in the army. In 1665-6 the Castle was fully garrisoned, and at that period was used as a state prison. George Fox, the founder of the sect commonly called Quakers (See page 868) was imprisoned in it for above twelve months, having incurred a premunire on account of his religious principles. During the rebellion of 1745, the Castle underwent a temporary repair, and a con siderable quantity of military stores were deposited in it. And at this alarming period the inhabitants of the town erected several batteries for its protection, and also cleansed out the moat, and mounted ninety-nine guns from the ships in the harbour ; which guns were principally manned by the sailors. After the suppression of the rebellion the Duke of Montague, Mas ter General of the Ordnance, in the year 1746, caused the present barracks to be erected, which wiU contain 130 soldiers in twelve apartments ; besides which there are others for the officers. These barracks, which stand con tiguous to the Castle waU, were built on the site of the royal apartments. In 1643 a battery called the South Steel was erected on the south east point of the Castle yard, on the declivity of the hill facing the haven ; and in 1748 itwas rebuilt, when twelve guns, eighteen pounders, were placed therein, one of which was on a traversing platform ; and lest the firing of the guns should bring down the before-mentioned Charles' Tower, which stood on the pro jecting angle above the battery, the tower was wholly demolished. A covered way, descending from the Castle Yard by a flight of steps, leads down to this battery, which is the principal defence of the town to the south ; and from its favoured situation is in some degree formidable. Here is also a store house, with a guard room and a magazine, where ammunition for cannon is deposited. Here are also preserved several old cannon balls, that were 4 u HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. found lodged in the walls of the Castle, and the surrounding earth, sometime after the siege. In the month of July, 1850, the Admiralty placed a large gun, of 33lb. calibre, in this battery, for the use of the Coast Guard body stationed here and in the neighbourhood. In 1794 a smaU battery was made in a place called the Holmes, on an eminence at the foot of the Castle, to guard the north shore; and for the better defence of the south part, another battery was, in 1796, made in the southern comer of the Castle yard; but these are now dismantled, and a small one of three guns was formed in 1819, for the security of the north approach to the Castle. In 1830 the depot of arms, ammunition, and gunpowder, which had been very considerable, were removed. The ravages of time and the two destructive sieges have reduced this once famous fortress to Uttle better than a mass of ruins. The approach to it is by a gateway on the summit of a narrow isthmus on the western side, above the town — the promontory upon which the ruins are situated being situated at the eastern extremity of the town. Within this gate, the north and south waUs of the Castle form an angular projection, at the western point of which —without the walls — is an outwork on an eminence, which was a battery at the siege of the Castie, in 1645, mounting seven guns, and was caUed BusheU's Battery, from Captain Brown BusheU, who is alluded to at page 696. This outwork, or corps de garde, which is without the ditch, or fosse, formed the Barbican of the Castle, with which it communicated by a draw-bridge whioh was removed in 1818, and replaced by a stone arch, under which is a deep and perpendicular fosse, or dyke, which continues southward, along the foot of the western declivity of the Castle hiU, the whole length of the line of the wall. The gateway, which is between two towers, appears to have been machiolated.* Within the gate is an advanced battery of two twelve pounders, flanking the fosse, and a few yards beyond was the above-mentioned drawbridge. The approach to the Castle, by the narrow isthmus beyond the drawbridge, was flanked with numerous turrets; and beyond the bridge on the right, is a part of the wall of the ballium, to which there is a little acclivity. And here rises the stately ruin of the great Norman " Keep " — the " Arx " mentioned by Leland. In its original state, this ma jestic tower cannot have been less than 180 feet in height; and the ground * Machiolations are smaU projections over gates, supported by brackets, having open intervals at the bottom, through whioh melted lead, stones, and other missiles, were thrown on the heads of the assailants ; and likewise large weights were fastened to ropes or chains, by whioh, after they had taken effect, they were retracted by the besieged. HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. 699 base is, by barometrical admeasurement, 850 feet above the level of the sea. This lofty tower is square, each side measuring 54 feet, exclusive of the pro jection of the base; and 97 feet in height. The walls are about twelve feet thick, cased with square stones, and enclose a narrow staircase, now broken and interrupted. There appears to have been three stories of very lofty rooms, one over another, each room between twenty and thirty feet high, and thirty feet square within the walls, with recesses. The remains of a very large fire-place are visible in the lower apartment. The subterraneous dun geon — the "donjon keep" — ^is nearly filled up with stones and earth. The different stories have been vaulted, and divided by strong arches ; and private passages, formerly communicating with the staircases, are visible in some of the intervals of the casing of the waUs. The windows, divided by round mulUons, are in semicircular arched recesses, and are larger than usual in such buildings. These recesses, which are nearly seven feet deep, above six feet broad, and ten feet in height, were converted during the last war into magazines for gunpowder, and held flve hundred barrels. This flne tower was flat-roofed and originaUy covered with lead, and it formerly had an em battled parapet. Mr. HinderweU, to whose exceUent and accurate description of these ruins we have pretty strictly adhered, truly observes, that the mortar which was used in the construction of this tower, being in a fluid state, according to the custom of the ancients, has received a consistency by age, that renders it more impenetrable and durable than even the stone of the building.* The area of the balUum, where the tower is situated, contains more than half an acre of ground. It is separated from the internal parts of the Castle- yard by a ditch and a mound, surmounted with a waU. In 1788, a fire-place of gritstone, and a pavement of neat square bricks were discovered near the western waU. In tbe baUium, about fifteen yards to the east of the beacon, was a deep weU, but whence it was supplied with water cannot at present be ascertained. Here were most of the inhabitable buUdings belonging to the Castle; and adjoining it were the towers mentioned by Leland, containing the Queen's lodgings, &c. The embattled waU, which has defended and adorned the summit of the hiU on the western side, continues hence to the southern extremity of the Castle yard. It is flanked with numerous semi circular turrets, and with loop holes whence were formerly discharged arrows and other missiles. These bastions are hastening to decay, and exhibit a * Leland, in his description of the Castie states that there were two otiier towers, which defended the approach to this, and between eaoh of tiiem a drawbridge. 700 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. scene of venerable ruin. It is also said, that large and ponderous pieces of timber were so placed, as to be in constant readiness to be rolled down upon an enemy attempting to approach the walls. Leland mentions a " Chapelle " on the " great Grene " of the Castle. This ancient Chapel was situated near the well in the Castle Yard, and Uttle res pecting it is known, except that it was given to the Cistercian Abbey, with all the other Churches and Qhapels in the town, at an early date, as wiU be shown at a subsequent page. It is thus mentioned in a survey taken March 35th, 1538 (39th Henry VIIL), by Marmaduke Constable and Ralph EUer- ker, Esqrs., Commissioners appointed by the Crown for that purpose: — " And within the same is a praty ChapeU of O'r Lady, and cov'd with leade, and besyds the same ChapeU is a fayre weU." In the Scarborough Museum is an interesting relic found in the ruins of this Chapel, in the year 1817. It is a block of carved stone work, two feet high, one foot three inches broad, and one foot in thickness, having a per foration in the centre apparently to attach it to a piUar. On one side is sculptured under an ornamented canopy, the Crucifixion, with figures on each side of the Blessed Virgin, and St. John the Evangelist; on the oppo site side are the Virgin and Divine Child in a sitting posture ; and at each end is a figure in a pontifical habit, with a mitre and crozier. Near the site of the Chapel, under an arched vault is a reservoir of water, called " Our Lady's WeU," supposed to be the spring mentioned by old his torians, and to have been consecrated to the Blessed Virgin. This weU contains about forty tons of water, and the appearance of a spring in such a situation is extraordinary. Its distance from the cliff is about twenty yards ; its height from the sea about three hundred feet ; and there are no high lands above it, or on its level, within a mile of it. It is, therefore, difficult, upon philosophical principles to determine the source whence it is suppUed. The following circumstance is mentioned as a solution of the difficulty, and it carries with it a degree of plausibility. It is said that the engineer, who superintended the barracks, and other military works, about the year 1746, ordered the workmen to dig a circular trench round the reservoir, in order to trace the source, and that they discovered several subterraneous drains or channels, which appeared to have been made for the purpose of conducting therein the rain-water, that might fall upon the area of the Castie hill. Mr. AUen, in his History of Yorkshire, in reference to this suggestion says, " For the illustration of this curious subject, it may not be amiss to observe, that if we suppose only twenty-four inches of rain to faU every year on the Castie hiU and aUow that what faUs on two acres of ground, round the edges of the HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 70l area, drips into the sea, we shall find, by an accurate calculation, that if only one fourth part of the water that faUs on the remaining seventeen acres can be collected, and brought to the reservoir, it will amount to 8,886,780 gallons annually, or about 6,816 gallons per day, of Winchester ale-measure; a cir cumstance which seems to afford an easy solution to this problem of natural history." In the driest seasons, this spring has suffered no diminution of its usual quantity — it is always fuU. The wa^er is very transparent, and has been found by experiment to weigh lighter by one ounce in the Winchester gallon, than any other water in the vicinity.* The lofty promontory upon which are situated the picturesque ruins of this ancient citadel, is bounded on three sides by the German Ocean, and elevated, as before intimated, near three hundred feet above the level of the sea ; presenting to the north, the east, and the south a vast sweep of craggy perpendicular rocks totally inaccessible. The western aspect is bold and maiestie. A high, steep, and rocky slope, thinly covered with verdure, com mands the town and the bay by its superior elevation. From a view of the venerable ruins of this once formidable Castle, may be perceived the extreme difficulty that must have attended any hostUe attempt against a fortress ren dered so strong both by nature and art, especiaUy when it is considered that battering-engines could not be brought to act against the walls, by reason of the steep declivity in front. It therefore appears, that before the invention of artiUery, the place was absolutely impregnable. " Sternly and gloomUy the venerable ruin looks down upon the changeful world below it," says a recent writer, " as if with an upbraiding of the present generation of men, that in their blest condition of goodwUl amongst each other they should seem to forget the part it once took in securing their happy state. The ' spirit of the » HinderweU relates the following facetious circumstance by which this water was, some years ago, brought into estimation with several visitors then at Scarborough :— Mr. W. CockeriU, the master of a coffee-house, and a person of great humour and mgenuity, having been often soUcited by the company who frequented his house, to introduce Bristol water on his table, substituted the Castie water in its place. The deception was carried on with great dexterity; the wax upon the corks bore the im- pression of the Bristol seal, and a fresh importation was pretended to be made every season, warranted direct from the fountain head, and the connoisseurs pronounced it to be genuine. But the ingenuity of the contriver failed him in an unguarded hour. He had, in a convivial party, taten too much wine, and in the confusion of an mtoxicated moment, the Bristol seal was applied to a bottiS of sherry, which was hastily sent up to the table, even before the wax had time to cool. This unlucky circumstance occasionei a discovery, and Mr, CockeriU not only received a severe reprimand for tiie imposition, but was ObUged ever afterwards, as its reputation was estabUshed, to supply tiie water gratis. 703 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH, olden time's romance' dwells in its every stone ; and in every atom of the grey dust that blows down from its crumbling waUs there hangs a tale, deep fraught with plainest truth of history," The prospect which may be enjoyed from these mouldering remains of an tiquity, is diversified and charming. Everything which can give beauty and interest to the landscape is within the compass of vision ; the country for miles beyond presenting a beautiful diversity of scenery ; the romantic ap pearance of the town; the ocean with its numerous richly freighted craft; the lovely bay, girt by the old hoar cUffs; the sands enlivened with the throng of pleasure seekers ; aU contribute to form an assemblage beautiful beyond conception, and to give an inexpressible charm to the scene. The view of the boundless ocean from the aspiring summit of the promontory is grand — it is more than grand — it is subUme! And the tremendous ap pearance of the precipice forces on the mind Shakespeare's description of Dover Cliff, to which it perfectly assimUates ; — " How fearful. And dizzy 'tis to cast one's eye so low ! The crows and choughs, that wing the midway air. Show scarce so big as beetles. — The fishermen, who walk upon the beach. Appear Uke mice ; and yon taU anchoring hark Diminished to her skiff, her skiff a buoy Almost too smaU for sight, The murmuring surge, That on th' unnumbered pebbles idly chafes, Can scarce be heard so high," The present miUtary establishment of this garrison is a master-gunner, bombardier, and two gunners. In the barracks are occasionally two com panies of infantry, ANCIENT RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS,— The piety and munifi-' cence of our ancestors erected in Scarborough four Religious Houses, or Monasteries, for the Cistercians, Franciscans, Dominicans, and Carmelites ; four Churches, dedicated in honour of St Nicholas, St, Thomas, the Holy Sepulchre, and St Mary ; and two Hospitals of St Thomas and St Nicholas. CisTBECiAN Abbey and Rbotoey. — The Cistercians, was a reformed Order of the Benedictines, and derived the name from Cistertium, Cis- teaux, or Citeaux, a village between Dijon and Chalons. The Order was founded in a.d. 1098, by Robert, Mibot of Citeaux, aud reached its height when, in 1145, Eugene HI., a pupil of St. Bernard's, became Pope. The Cistercians were called White Monks from their dress, which was a white frock or cassock with a narrow scapulary, over which they wore a black gown HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 703 or cloak when they were beyond the walls of the Monastery ; but a white one when they attended the Church. The Order was introduced into England in the year 1138, and at the dissolution of the monastic institute in the reign of Henry VIII., they had eighty-five reUgious houses of Monks and Nuns, some of the most remarkable of which, were Jorval or Jervaux, Kirk staU, and Furness. They were all dedicated to God, in honour of the Blessed Virgin. Their first house in this country wa| at Waverley, in Surrey. The establishment of this Order in Scarborough was under the Abbey of Cistercium, in Burgundy, by a grant from King Richard I., in 1198. This is recited at length in Cart., Edward I. They had in Scarborough only a single spUtary CeU for the use of their Community, which was situated in the north east corner of the west burial ground of St. Mary's. Here was a resident Procurator, the duty of whose office was to receive the rents, and remit the balance to the parent house. King John and King Henry III. extended their protection to this establishment. The latter Monarch granted the Monks a site for an Abbey, and they were soon enabled to build a spacious edifice. In the 13th of Edward I. (1886), the Church of St. Mary, the juris diction of the ancient Chapel within the Castle, and of all other Chapels, as weU within the town as without, were confirmed to the Cistercians, and all right of the Crown in the Rectory was then given up. The Vicar of St. Mary's Church was to be appointed by the Abbot, and the profits during a vacancy, were to be received by the Abbey or the Procurator in England. The Vicar also was to swear obedience, and to be removable at the wUl of the Abbot. No person was allowed to erect a Chapel in the parish, or an altar in any Chapel, under the forfeiture of ten pounds. The claim of the Abbot of the Cistercians, as Rector of Scarborough, to the profits of the Chapel in the Castle, was recognised and aUowed in the 5th of Edward II. (1318); and the custody of the Rectory was granted to Hugh de Sancto Lupo, in 1348, on payment of a rent of thirty-five marks per ann. to the Crown. In 1363, license was given to the Abbot of the Cistercians to give a Vicarage House to Henry Bendebowe, Vicar of Scarborough, and his suc cessors for ever. In the reign of Henry IV., the King seized the possession of the Cistercian Abbey as an AUen Priory (See page 487), and granted the custody and advowson of Scarborough, to the Priory and Convent of Brid- . lington; and the Abbot and Convent of the Cistercians afterwards obtained Ucense to alienate them to the said Prior^. King Edward IV. in the first year of his reign (1461) " granted and confirmed to the Canons and Convent of the Monastery of the Blessed Mary of Bridlington, and their successors, the Church of Scardeburgh, with all its Chapels, rents, courts, suits, services. 704 HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH, possessions, liberties, and all other profits and advantages of whatever kind, respecting or appertaining thereto, and the advowson and patronage of the said Church to have and to hold by the same Canons and Convent, and their successors, for a pure and permanent alms for ever," The Rectory of Scar borough was afterwards seized by King Henry VIH,, as a parcel of the Priory of BridUngton, and in 1539, it was granted to Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, in tail male. The Duke dying without issue, the Rectory was in the possession of the Crown again in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and was successively leased to Walter Whally, Robert Whally, and John Awdley, In 1613, it was granted by letters patent, under the great seal, to Francis Morris and Francis PhiUips, and their heirs and assigns, on a yearly payment of twenty-eight pounds to the Vicar, By virtue of this grant, the lay Rectory and patronage have successively passed to John, Earl of Bridgewater, WiUiam Thompson, Esq,, and Sir Charles Hotham, Bart,, and his heirs. The late Lord Hotham, in 1818, sold the same (except the perpetual advowson) to the Corporation of Scarborough, who have since disposed of the tithes of the land at sixteen years' purchase, to every proprietor wiUing to accept the offer, so that a great part of the parish is now tithe-free. The advowson of the Vicarage of Scarborough now belongs to the present Lord Hotham, The tithe of fish, or the twentieth part of the fish, or of the value of such fish as were taken by the fishermen of Scarborough, wherever the same was caught or sold, belonged by custom, confirmed by the Court of Exchequer in 1654 and 1730, to the possessors of the Rectory ; but the Corporation have liberally waived their right as an encouragement to the fishery. The Cistercian Abbey stood in the vicinity of the Church of St, Mary, After remarking that the latter edifice has the appearance of a Conventual Church, HinderweU observes, " The ruins stUl standing at the eastern part of the Churchyard, the dismembered appearance of the western end, and the great quantity of foundation stones in the new burial ground contiguous to it, are sufficient proofs that it is, in its present state, only the remnant of a vast edifice, which may have formed the Cistercian Abbey and the Church,'' In the vale called Peasholm, north of the town of Scarborough, is the ruin of a buUding supposed to have been the Manor House, and afterwards a farm or grang|, belonging to the Cistercian Abbey. According to tradition, the Manor of Northstead, or Peaseholm, was farmed by the Crown, to supply the Cistercian Monks. This Manor was not unfrequently granted to the Go vernors of the Castle. Feanciscan Feiaey. — There were, as has been intimated, three houses of the mendicant Order of Friars in Scarborough, viz., the Franciscans, the HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH, 705 Dominicans, and the Carmelites, The mendicant Orders observed the rules of poverty, so that their houses were seldom endowed, but many of their Friaries were nevertheless large and stately, and connected with noble Churches, The Friars of the Order of St, Francis, caUed also the Friars' Minor, Minorite, or Grey Friars (the former from their reputed humility, and the latter from the colour of their habit), first settied in England, according to Burton, about the year 1884, and had in this Kingdom seven Custodies, or Wardenships, In the Custody of York were seven houses, viz,, York (See page 508), Beverley, Scarborough, Boston, Doncaster, Lincoln, and Grimsby, Their estabUshment at Scarborough was erected about the year 1340, and from the extent of the foundations yet to be traced in the Friarage, to the north of St, Sepulchre Street, seems to have been a very spacious building. We have observed at page 679, that in the 89th of Henry III. (1344), leave was given to the Franciscans to pull down houses, and to build their Convent on the piece of ground between Cukewild HiU and the MiU Beck. In the year 1300, the Knights Hospitalers of St. John of Jerusalem, made a grant to this Convent of a messuage, " situated between the land of John Blaks, which Wm. de Harum holdeth of him in fee, on the south, and the street caUed Dumple,* on the north, and which joins to the wall of the borough, and the aforesaid street." On the 30th of March, 1806, a Com mission was issued to dedicate the Church of the Franciscans, and the Churchyard thereof to the Holy Sepulchre ; and on the 37th of July, 1308, another Commission was issued to dedicate the altars of the said Church. There are various confirmations of grants of land in the town to this Friary, on record, and Torre notices many testamentary burials in the Conventual Church. The Convent of the Franciscans at Scarborough was dissolved by Eing Henry VIIL, in 1539, when their total rental per ann. is stated, in a record preserved in the Chapter House, Westminster, to have amounted to five shiUings and fourpence only. The habit of the Franciscans was a loose garment of a grey colour, reaching down to their ancles, with a cowl of the same, and a cloak over it when they walked abroad. They went barefooted in imitation of their founder, St. Francis D 'Assize, or Assisium, and girded themselves with a cord. Little is known respecting the above-mentioned Church of St. Sepulchre. It is supposed to have stood on the plot of ground to the north of St, Se- • Le Dunpole, or Dynpole, appears to have beeu derived from the Saxon dun or dune, a fortified hUl; and pole, the pool or watefcourse (MUl Beok), in its immediate neigh bourhood. We have observed at page 679, that the foundations of bastions were dis covered ia 1806, at Aubro' Gate ; thus the hUl was fortified, • 4 X '"^ HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH, pulchre Street, immediately in front of the Friends' Meeting House, It is difficult to define the architectural features of this and the other ancient Churches in Scarborough ; the only record remaining being a view of the town taken from an original drawing in the British Museum, supposed to have been made in the reign of Richard IH,, a,d. 1485, This interesting picture was obtained and presented to the Corporation of Scarborough, by his Grace the Duke of Rutiand, Recorder, in 1813 ; and the late Dr, Travis presented an accurate copy of the same to the Scarborough Museum, Judging from the appearance of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, on this plan or map, it must have been of considerable dimensions and architectural character, consisting of a nave and south aisle, with a tower on the side, of five stories in height, surmounted with a short spire. One of the finials of the edifice is preserved in the Scarborough Museum, This Church, or Chapel, appears to have had in its early days some connexion with the Knights of St, John, who had possessions in Scarborough, and in Stainton Dale, in the neighbour hood. In the grant of Richard I,, in 1198, to the Cistercian Abbey, the Chapels are included generaUy ; but in an inquisition taken in the third year of the reign of Richard II, (1380), to ascertain the extent of the possessions of the Cistercian Abbey at Scarborough, the Chapels of St, Sepulchre and St, Thomas are mentioned by name as parochial. The Church of St, Sepulchre fell into decay prior to Leland's visit to Scarborough, in 1534; and in 1564, the fabric was entirely taken down. Dominican Feiaey, — The Order of Friars, commonly denominated the Dominicans, was founded by St, Dominic, a Spaniard, about a,d, 1315, They had their first house in this country at Oxford, about the year 1381, and soon after had another in London, In the year 1350, a general Chapter of the Dominicans was held in the latter City, when the King (Henry HI,) honoured them with his presence, and dined with the Order, The King provided a sumptuous entertainment, and defrayed the expenses of the first day ; on the second day the Queen entertained them with great magnificence ; Fulco Basset, the Bishop of London, did the honours of the third ; Athelmar (brother of Henry HI,), Bishop of Westminster, the fourth ; and the other prelates in succession. It is not known with certainty at what period their Convent and Churoh in this town was founded, but the Community, which was denominated the Prior and Friar's Preachers at " Sbarburgh," paved a street in Scarborough, so early as the 37th of Edward I, (1399), On the 4th of October, 1409, Henry, Archbishop of York, translated the feast of the dedication of their Church in this place, from the 13th of September to the S3rd of October, HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH, 707 Of the Church and buildings little is known, and but few traces of them now remain. Their situation seems pretty clearly marked out by Queen Street, which was formerly caUed " Black Friars' Gate," and by " Friars' Entry," which branches from it, and still retains its name. The masonry of several of the houses in Friars' Entry, is composed of the materials of old conventual buildings ; and the same may be said of smaU detached portions of masonry in other parts of the town. In digging a cellar in a house in Friars' Entry some years ago, a great number of human bones were found, from which it was conjectured that the spot was part of the site of the burial place of the Convent.* In A,D, 1363, the Friars of the Order of St, Dominic passed a fine for a house and messuage held by them in " Scardeburgh," and the Community of Scardeburgh granted that the effects of the Friars and their house, should be toll free in that Borough. At the dissolution of this Convent in 1539, the rental, as it appears by a record, preserved in the Chapter House, Westminster, amounted to fifteen shillings and four pence per ann. The followers of St. Dominic, were some times caUed "Preaching Friars" from their office, to preach; and "Black Friars " from the colour of their upper garment. Their rules were very rigid; perpetual silence was enjoined, no time being aUowed for conversation without permission of the Superior. They studied the Scriptures daily, devoted themselves to prayer, and were restricted to almost continual fasts ; particularly from the 11th of September to Easter. Abstinence from flesh, imless in great sickness, wearing of. wooUen instead of linen, a rigorous poverty, and several other austerities were amongst them. The dress, or habit, of the Dominicans, was a black cloak over other vestments, reaching down to their heels, with a hood or cowl of the same, and a scapulary ; and under the cloak a white habit made of flannel, as large as the former, with boots on their legs. According to Burton, there were about forty-three houses of this Order in England at the time of the dissolution. Caemelite Feiaey. — The CarmeUtes profess to derive their origin in an uninterrupted succession from the chUdren of the prophets, who ancientiy inhabited the mountain of Carmel, Palestine; but others assert that the Order was reaUy founded in 1138, by Albert, Patriarch of Jerusalem, who, with a few hermits resided on Mount Carmel, whence they were driven by the Saracens, in 1838. In the year 1340 (34th Henry IIL), Sir John de '• The grounds adjacent to Friars' Entry, appear to have been used as a cemetery at a period stiU more remote, even previouf to the introduction of Christianity, as several mutilated burial-urns were found there in the year 1836. 708 HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. Vescy, of Alnwick, in Northumberland, a renowned commander of the English forces in the wars against the Saracens, returning from the Holy Land, brought with him into England, this Order of Friars, and built them a Mo nastery, at Holm, in Northumberland, then a desert place, which had some resemblance to Mount Carmel, in Syria. After this estabUshment they increased much, and spread in a few years into the principal Cities and towns in the Kingdom. The establishment of the Blessed Mary of Mount Carmel, commonly called Carmelites, or White Friars (from the colour of their habit), in Scarborough, may be dated from the 13th of Edward II. (1330), when that Monarch made them a grant of certain houses for buUding their Convent and an Oratory ; also a grant of Ucence to the Cistercians to seU a piece of ground for the said Oratory, and a grant of leave from the Abbot of the Cistercians, as Rector of Scarborough, to build an Oratory, with a confirmation of two tenements and a toft for its support. This Oratory, Church, or Chapel, is said to have been situated near the North Cliff, a short distance from the boundaries of the Castle, in a field to the north of St. Mary's Church, known by the name of CharneU Garth (See page 678). Torre's 'Manuscripts state that " there was a Chapel caUed Le CharneU, wherein was a Chantry, ordained at the altar of St. Mary Magdalene, which belonged to the patronage of the Percehays of Ryton." There was likewise another Chantry founded in the Chapel called Le CharneU, at the same altar, which was in the patronage of the Kings of England. 'Torre mentions some testamentary burials in the Church of the Carmelites, at Scarborough. The Convent, or Friary, of this Ord^r here was dissolved in 1539, when the total of their rental amounted only to ten shillings per ann. The site of the Convent is the CharneU Garth. A copy of a drawing of the Conventual Church is in the Museum of Scarborough. The greatest austerities were practised by these Friars ; in summer they rose at four o'clock in the morning, and in winter at five. Eaoh had a coffin in his cell, in which he slept every night upon straw, and every morning dug a shovelful of earth for his grave. To their devotions they walked, or rather crept upon their knees ; they observed strict silence for a great portion of their time ; ate twice a day, but never tasted animal food ; spent much of their time in their cells, in prayer, and fasted from the feast of the Holy Cross tiU Easter. . The rigour of this discipUne was relaxed by Pope Innocent IV., and the brethren had permission to taste flesh meat. They wore a white cloak, or robe and hood, and under it a coat with a scapulary. There were forty houses of this Order in England and Wales. Robert Barton, or Baston, a native of Yorkshire, became in his youth a HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 709 (JarmeUte Friar, and was afterwards Prior of this Convent, at Scarborough. He was a man of exemplary Ufe and behaviour, and the author of several works. He was likewise Poet Laureat and PubUc Orator at Oxford, and was engaged by Kings Edward I. and II., to chronicle their achievements. HOSPITALS.— St. Nicholas' Hospital and Chuech, — This Hospital is supposed to have been founded in the reign of King Henry IL, when the Church belonging to it was erected. The Church was situated upon the cliff, since called St, Nicholas' Cliff, between the house No, 7 A, and the north gate of the Cliff Bridge ; and it is supposed that the Hospital stood adjacent to it,* But there are not any vestiges of either buildings now to be seen, as the land has, in the course of ages, considerably wasted away. The .entire skeleton of a human body of large stature was found in the cliff, in 1786 ; and several human bones, in a regular position, were also discovered in leveUing the terrace, in 1791, A copper plate belonging to a tombstone, waa found in the cliff, in 1810, bearing an inscription which translates thus : — " Pater WiUielmus de Thornton ; "•[• and a tombstone was likewise found in the cliff some years since, without any inscription, though it bore the forms of the cross, chalice, and pix, in the rudest sculpture. Human remains have frequentiy been seen to fall from the cliff. It appears, by an inquisition taken in the 36th of Edward I, (1897), that " the Hospitals of St, Nicholas and St. Thomas (hereafter noticed) were for merly founded by the burgesses of Scardeburgh ; and that the goods and chattels of St. Nicholas' Hospital, were to the use of the brothers and sisters of the said Hospital ; that none of the town of Scardeburgh had dilapidated or injured the said Hospital, or appropriated to themselves anything belonging to it; the lands and tenements being still in the hands of the said brothers and sisters ; that the BaiUffs of Scardeburgh for the time being, with four men of the said town, audited the acounts for the said house or Hospital, every year. That the Hospital then possessed eight oxen, of the value of iv. marks each; seven cows, valued at v. shiUings each; six heifers, at ii. shiUings each ; eight sheep, of xii. pence each ; eight sheep, of inferior value ; and four boars, at v. shiUings each. They had also flve oxgangs of land, of the value of x. * * * per ann." The Hospital was in the patronage of the ling. In the 9th of Edward II. (1316), WiUiam de Olive was made Keeper of it; and in five years after, the Keeper was Robert de Spynge. * The present terrace, laying between No. 7 A and the CUff Bridge, was the site of the burial ground of St. Nichohis' Churoh. t According to Charlton's History of Whitby, Father WUUam of Thornton, was a subscribing witness to a charter, in the year 1120. 710 HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. St. Thomas' Hospital. — Hugh de Bulmer gave lands at Scarborough towards the founding of an Hospital for poor men and women in this town, in the reign of Henry II. This Hospital was finished and endowed by the burgesses of Scarborough, who had the custody of it, and appointed a Master at their discretion, until the time of Wm. de Champneys, Master of the said Hospital, whom Rodger Westyse ejected with the brothers and sisters thereof, because he, the said WUliam, falsely informed King Edward I. that his royal grandfather. King Henry, had given in fee and perpetual alms to the said Hospital, a carucate and a half of land. The Hospital, which was dedicated in honour of St. Thomas the Martyr, is stiU in existence (as an Almshouse), and stands in North Street, to the west of the Union Workhouse. It is a poor low building, consisting of twelve old cottages, or tenements, of stone, in a dilapidated state, for as many poor aged and infirm persons, or families. There is a small piece of garden ground attached to each cottage. The Workhouse yard and contiguous gardens are part of the premises belonging to the Hospital ; and the grounds adjacent were formerly the burial ground of St. Thomas' Church. It is said that in former days the foundation was on a very Uberal scale ; at present each inmate has, besides a cottage rent free, only about twelve shiUings a year. The old prayer-bell still remains, but it is not now used for that purpose. This Hospital was formerly under the direction of the BaiUffs and Chamberlains, but since the passing of the Reform Bill, it is in the hands of certain Trustees. The Church of St. Thomas was contiguous to the Hospital. Dr. Travis, in one of his numerous contributions to the last edition of HinderweU's History of Scarborough, says of it, " The Church was a fair and spacious building, near the site of the present Poor-house ; and the houses adjacent, towards Newborough Gate, continue to be charged with the payment of a small Church-rent, for encroaching on the Churchyard. At the time of Leland's Itinerary (1538), this edifice is noticed as ' a great Chapelle by side of the Newborrow Gate,' and appears to have been used untU its demolition, as a Chapel of Ease to the parish Church, for the Corporation records shew that four churchwardens were, during these times, annually elected ; and the repairs of St. Thomas' Church, in 1648, were effected by an assessment on the whole parish. During the siege of 1645, St. Thomas' Church was con verted into a magazine, by Sir John Meldrum, the commander of the Par Uamentary forces, and was much injured by the firing from the garrison ; and in the subsequent siege in 1648, it is stated in the Church-brief, that it was ' by the violance of the ordnance quite ruined and battered down.' Such was the actual state of its dUapidation, that on the 6th February, 1649, it HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. 711 was ordered by the Bailiffs and Burgesses, ' that upon consideration that part of St. Thomas' Church is already fallen, and the rest ready to fall ; and as much of the timber and slates are stolen away, by evil-disposed persons ; for prevention therefore of any further embezzlement, that the said Church be taken down, and the materials thereof be sold to the best advantage, and the monies arising therefrom be employed in the repair of St. Mary's Church.' " According to the before-mentioned view or plan of the town, the Church of St Thomas consisted of a nave, with south aisle, and embattled tower of three stages, ornamented with a short spire. The Hospitals of St. Nicholas and St. Thomas, were both of St. Augus tine's Order for the infirm. There were several of these Hospitals in England. Some of them had particular rules of their own, besides the rules of St. Augustine. Their usual habit was a gown, with a scapulary under it, and a cloak of a brown colour, upon which was fixed a brass cross. , KNIGH:fS HOSPITALEES, OE Knights OF St. John OF Jbeusalem. — The Knights Hospitalers succeeded to the estates of the Knights Templars, when the latter Order was suppressed by Pope Clement V,, in a,d, 1313, In the neighbourhood of Stainton Dale, in the parish of Scalby, there is considerable property, which formerly belonged to the Hospitalers, and they had, likewise, some property in Scarborough, The Independent Chapel in St, Sepulchre Street, is supposed to occupy the site of part of their possessions, if not of their residence. Gent, in his History of HuU and Scarborough, 1735, says, that there was an institution in Scarborough, called " The Chapel, or House of St. John," and that its site was near Newborough Gate, and not far distant from St. Thomas' Chapel, near the Hospital of that name. The ancient Church of St. Mary — the present parish Church — wiU be •noticed farther on in this volume. TOPOGRAPHY.— Scarborough is a Borough, Liberty Port, and a large and well-buUt Market Town, locaUy situated in Pickering Lythe, about 40 miles N.E. from York ; 43 mUes N. from HuU ; 31 mUes N, from Driffield ; 18 miles N,W, by N. from BridUngton; 81 miles, S,S,E, of Whitby; and 217 miles N, from London; being in 54 deg, 16 min. north latitude, and in 33 min. west longitude, from the meridian of Greenwick. The Town of Scarborough is deUghtfuUy and romanticaUy situated in the recess of a vast and irregular bay of the North Sea, or German Ocean, about half-way between the promontory of Whitby and Flamborough Head ; which two points, though forty miles apart, may be said to be the extremities of the bay. The interval is marked by an undulating line of cliffs, frequentiy in dented inward ; and at the bottom of the most retired of them, nearly in the 713 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. midst of the huge sweep, stands this celebrated watering place; the streets, mansions, and noble terraces of which, rise in successive tiers from the shore, somewhat in the form of an amphitheatre. The beach of firm and smooth sand slopes gradually towards the sea. The massive ruins of the venerable and once impregnable Castle, situated ou a peninsular height, near the town (as already described), is a prominent object, and the elegant ranges of handsome buildings along the cUffs, give the place a truly deUghtful ap pearance. Mr. HinderweU, in describing the general aspect of the placej says, " To the east stand the ruins of the ancient Castle, whose venerable waUs adorn the summit of a lofty promontory. To the south is a vast ex panse of ocean, a scene of the highest magnificence, where fleets of ships are frequently passing. The recess of the tide leaves a spacious area upon the sands, equaUy convenient for exercise and sea-bathing. The refreshing gales of the ocean, and the shades of the neighbouring hiUs, give an agreeable temperature to the air, during the sultry heats of summer, and produce a grateful serenity. The town is well-built ; the principal streets in the upper, or more modern portion of it, are spacious and well paved, with excellent flagged footways on each side ; and the houses have, in general, a handsome appearance. The new buildings on the North and South Cliffs, stand almost unrivalled, in respect of situation, having in front beautiful terraces, elevated (on the South Cliff especially) nearly a hundred feet above -the level of the sands, and com manding a variety of delightful prospects. As lodging houses, these buildings are equaUy elegant, commodious, pleasant, and healthy; and in different parts of the town there are many other exceUent lodging houses, where visitors may be accommodated in a genteel and agreeable manner. The vicinity of the town is richly diversified with hill and dale, exhibiting a great variety of romantic scenery. The author of the Pictorial Souvenir of Scarborough, in welcoming the visitor to this "loved resort," exultingly says, "Dear old Scarborough, how many toU-worn hearts have exulted on their approach to thy peaceful shores ! How ever-dearly cherished is the halcyon repose the mind enjoys amidst thy tranquilising scenes ! How have thy numberless beauties of rock and river, glen and mountain, heath and orchard, aided to fill the lone heart with joy and with hope for the future, and the sunken frame with vigour and new strength, to hold forward yet awhUe on the rude and broken path of the busy world without ! And the great Ocean that gently kisses thy feet, and daily does proud homage to thy charms, — shaU we not, ' subject ' though it be, its praise acknowledge ? The sound of its murmuring waves, now breaking upon the ear in softest cadence, or, anon, HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 713 ¦the thunder of its mighty biUows as they roU, in subUme chorus, majesticaUy to the strand ;— the boundless expanse of its horizon-bound surface, telling of lands, to which it is the great highway, far, far, beyond, luxuriating in the sunny smile of cloudless day, or, hidden in the darkness of northern night,— the contents of its unfathomable depths, and the riches of its ' treasure caves and ceUs ;'— the life it holds ;— the very life indeed, it seems to be— aU afford abundant scope for most pleasing contemplation, and constitute the sea — great emblem of the Infinite — the centre and crowning point of aU the adornments and attractions with which nature has so lavishly endowed this fair vicinity." The approaches to sea-ports from the land are seldom particularly beauti ful, but the entrance to Scarborough by the Malton road is exceedingly picturesque and beautiful. The elegant writer, from whose Souvenir we have just quoted, describing the prospect from an eminence on that road, caUed Stepney Hill, a spot from which the beauties of the scene may be en joyed to the greatest advantage, says,^ — " On every hand some striking feature appears. . To the south, the boldly-rising Weapon Ness forms a prominent object ; to the north, the bleak moorlands present themselves to view ; to the east, the Town of Scarborough extends itself, the noble ruins of its once stately Castie courting the gaze of the stranger, and teUing their silent but truthful tale of ages long past ; and beyond lies the magnificent ocean, spread out as a mirror reflecting the blue sky, with which it becomes wedded in the distance. AU around, hUls and dales, barren heaths, and waving cornfields, fill up the charming picture." Dr. John Kelk, in a little book on the Scarborough Spa, in referring to the views from the same hUl says, " Nothing can be more pleasing to the man of taste, nothing more cheering to the broken-down spirits of the invaUd, than this unique picture, which is, as it were, spread out before him at his very feet. The freshes of the air," he continues, " so different to what is breathed in the interior «f England, and so Uttie like what is inhaled by the inhabitants of sooty and smoky towns, tainted with a thousand impurities, seems already to invigorate the body before it has arrived at this gem of watering places." John PhiUips, Esq., F.S.A., in his RaUway Excursions, greatiy lauds this region of rock and wave, of beauty and romance — Scar borough. "Perhaps the whole British coast," he writes, "offers nothing nobler or more suggestive of high thoughts, than the walk from the pier as cending towards the Castle, the passage of the gateway, the crossing of tiie drawbridge, the climbing of the covered way, and the wandering on the Castle HUl. From this elevated point the land and sea spread out in am 4 Y 714 HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. immense circle; the Ught glances on a multitude of passing and returning vessels ; the cliffs in every variety of form, and of aU tints, from the white steeps of Flambro' to the dark rooks of the peak ; sands of the brightest tint, bounded by waves of the largest curvature, soUtary in the north bay, covered with gay crowds on the south ; while inland. Weapon Ness and Silphoe Moor brings to recoUection the semi-barbarous days of Britain ; and close at hand the half ruined Church pleads against the later Civil War." And again, he observes, " The stranger who is allured by the uncommon attractions of Scarborough to linger here for awhile, will find the sea rich in shells, corals, and fishes, and many other forms of marine Ufe ; the cUffs productive of beautiful fossil plants and shells ; and the tumuli on the cliffs and in the interior fuU of information regarding the modes of Ufe and burial of our rude ancestors.'' Dr. GranvUle, in his well-known work on English Spas, is lavish in his praises of the beauties of the vicinity of Scarborough. The bay he appro^ priately compares to the Bay of Naples, and expresses in glowing terms the pleasurable surprise with which he first looked upon the diversified scenery in the neighbourhood.. Indeed it was this learned physician that accorded to Scarborough the high title of the " Queen of EngUsh Watering Places." Within the last quarter of a century Scarborough has been doubled in ex tent, and more than doubled in its power of yielding comfort and pleasure. The access to the sands has been rendered more easy to invaUds ; the Spa furnished with suitable buildings, and made easy of approach at all times ; magnificent hotels and lodging houses crown the north and south cliffs, and there is every convenience for private as well as open sea bathing. The Spa.— Scarborough had already stood high as a place of fashionable resort during the season for sea bathing, but the discovery of the mineral waters speedUy raised it. higher in repute, and inevitably elevated it to the first rank amongst the watering places of the Kingdom— and at this day it presents the two great attractions to the invaUd of .smedicinal waters and sea bathing. " The discovery of our Spa," curtly remarks the editor of the Guide to Scarborough, "is not marked by any of those marveUous occurrences, to which some of our neighbours are fond of aUuding, when tracing the origin and history of their mineral waters. We are not indebted to the instinct of the swine or the stag, nor the fluttering of a pigeon or lapwing, as at Bathi Harrogate, or Cheltenham, for the detection of the medicinal properties, of our waters,'" but simply to the observations of an inteUigent female." Ac cording to Dr. Wittie's account of this discovery, pubUshed in 1660, and . copied by HinderweU, Mrs. Farrer, the wU'e of a respectable merchant, who HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. 715 ¦lived at Scarborough about the year 1630, whUe occasionally walking along the shore, observed the stones over which the water passed, to have received a russet colour, and flnding it to have an acid taste, different from the com mon springs, and to receive a purple tincture from gaUs, thought it probably might have a medicinal property ; and having therefore made an experiment herself, and persuaded others to make the same, it was found to be efficacious in some complaints, and became the usual physic of the inhabitants. It was afterwards in great repute, and was so very generally recommended, that several persons came from great distances to drink it, preferring it before all others, even the ItaUan, French, and German Spas. An old writer quoted by Dr. Kelk, in a description of Scarborough, pub lished also in 1660, after describing the town and Castle, proceeds to say, " That which adds further to the fame of the place is the Spa's weU, which is a quick spring about a quarter of a mile south from the town, at the foot of an exceeding high cUff, arising upright out of the earth, like a boUing pot, near the level of the spring tides, with which it is overflown." The first cistern for coUecting the waters was built in 1698, and had in front of it a staith or wharf, composed of a large body of stone bound by timber, as a fence against the sea. The wells thus secured had a house attached to them. In the month of December, 1737, the house and cistern were destroyed by, what was considered by some, a slight shock of an earth quake. A great mass of the cliff behind the house, containing near an acre of pasture land sunk perpendicularly, and forced up the sand and spongy soil for the space of one hundred yards, to eighteen or twenty feet above its former level. The ground thus raised was twenty six yards in breadth ; and the staith, notwithstanding its immense weight — supposed to be about 3463 tons— rose entire, twelve feet higher than its former position, and was forced out forward to the sea about twenty yards. This convulsion for some time so buried the springs that doubts were entertained of their recovery ; but after a diligent search they were found, and the staith being repaired the spa continued to maintain its merited reputation.* The buUding which was • An original character caUed Dicky Dickinson superintended the springs, and was stjledthe Govemor of the Spa. He lost all his household goods, and a weU stocked cellar of wine and ale, by the catasta'ophe, and as he died on the 8th of February fol- lowing, it is said his death was hastened by the untoward event. In a periodical mis cellany published in 1733, this Dicky Dickinson is thus described :—" He is oue of the most deformed pieces of mortality, and of the most uncouth manner of speech ; however with .aisop's deformity he has some of his wit. He rents the weU, of the Corporation, at a smaU rent, and has buUt two houses for the convenience of tiie company, one for 716 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. then erected for the protection of the springs, was demolished by the violence of a storm or gale, which occurred in February, 1836, when the sea rose higher than had probably been known for half a century. Before its power the whole of the staith feU, and the elevation upon which the old Spa house stood was in a great measure removed, and rendered totally unfit for use. Measures were soon taken by the CUff Bridge Company, to secure plans and funds for re-constructing the edifice in a manner corresponding with the improved and growing importance of the town. An immense mass of cUff was excavated ; the boundaries of the staith and promenade were considerably extended beyond their former limits ; several beautiful and retired walks were cut in the face of the cliff, and trees planted in the most favourable situations. The grounds and walks now about the Spa form one of the most delightful places of fashionable resort in the north of England. The erection of the present Spa Saloon was commenced in the year 1837, from plans furnished by Wyatt. The building, which is of cut stone, is in the casteUated style, and is much admired for its chaste and elegant ap pearance. The completion of the original design, which only comprised the. front saloon of the present structure, was celebrated by a pubUc breakfast on Friday, the 16th of August, 1839, and was attended by most of the principal visitors then in the town, and by many of the chief inhabitants. In a few years it was found necessary to remodel and enlarge the ediflce, and in 1847, another large and beautiful haU was added to it. But even this enlarge ment does uot now affordsufficient accommodation to the numbers that resort the use of the gentlemen and the other for the ladies." The foUowing humorous lines were written under his picture, engraved by Mr. Vertue : — " Behold, the Govemor of Scarborough Spaw, Ihe strangest Phie and Form you ever saw; Yet when you view the heauties of his mind, In l^iTn a second .^aop you may find. Samoa unenvied boasts her JBsop gone. And France may glory in her late Scarron, While England has a living DiCKiNSOif." William Temperton, who succeeded Dicky Dickinson as " Govemor of Scarborough Spaw," died in 1755, and that solemn event is recorded on a oopper plate, attached to a flat grave stone, opposite the south porch of the Church of St. Mary. William Allanson, the next " Governor," was remarkable for longevity, baring attained to the age of 103 years, in the possession of all his faculties. His attainment to extreme old age, without its usual attendant infirmities, was the more singular, as he was far from baring Uved temperately. He died in 1775. Whenever he was questioned respecting his regimen, he usuaUy repUed that he had "always Uved weU, and the spaw- water was his sove reign remedy." HISTOEY op SCAEBOEOUGH. 717 to this "famous fountain of health,'' and it is now intended either to enlarge or remodel the structure on a much more extensive scale. The promenade, too, is about to be stiU further extended, and many improvements made in the walks, terraces, and ornamented works in the grounds of the beautiful eUff.* The Spa Saloon, and its terraces and pleasure grounds are daily fre quented in the season, by thousands of delighted pleasure seekers. A talented band of music is provided during the summer months, whose performances during the day and in the evening adds greatiy to the attractions of the place. Concerts are generaUy given in the saloon on two evenings in each week. The principal approach from the town to the Spa Saloon is across a hand some cast iron bridge of four arches, on pyramidal stone piers, called the Cliff Bridge. The erection of this elegant structure is one of the most im portant improvements in the town. It was projected by the late R. Cattie, Esq., of York; the foundation stone was laid on the 39th of November, 1836, by E. H. Hebden, Esq., then the senior Bailiff of this Borough ; and it was opened to the pubUc on the 19th of July, 1837, the anniversary of the Coronation of the then reigning Monarch, George IV. This bridge spans the valley between St. Nicholas' Cliff and South Cliff— its length is 414 feet; breadth, 13^ feet ; and height, above high water mark, 75 feet. Its original cost amounted to about £9000., which was raised in shares. The Bridge, the Spa, and the surrounding grounds belong to a Company of shareholders, caUed the CUff Bridge Company .-j- • Since the above observations were penned, the shareholders in the Cliff Bridge Company have held a general meeting, at which the Eeport of the Committee on the proposed alterations and extensions of the Spa, was read, and plans prepai-ed by Sir Joseph Paxton, shewing the projected improvements, were received. A rough estimate of the cost of carrying out Sir Joseph's -designs, was laid before the meeting. This con sisted of the foUowing items :— For the proposed new music haU, or principal buUding, iE4,900, ; colonade, ^61,250, ; vestibule, £473. ; alterations to the present buUdings, £350. ; addition to the north wall of the Spa, £1,250, ; improvements and extensions in the pleasure grounds, including a proposed new road north of the Spa, £650, ; total, £8,897. To tills the Committee add the estimate cost of lengthening the sea-waU promenade southward, £3,500.; and for contingent expenses, £1,103.; making a grand total of £13,500., a sum the outlay of which the Committee think the interests of the share- " holders and the' requirements of the yearly increasing number of visitors more than qualifies. A statement of the average expenditure and receipts of the Company, during the last four yeara, shows that the undertaking, when completed according to the plans now received, wiU be capable of yielding interest at the rate of 5i per cent. In order to raise the required capital, new shares at the rate of £3. are to be issued. f The daily charge for crossing tHs bridge, or for entering tiie Spa saloon or its grounds, by any of the five entrance gates to them, is sixpence from the 1st of June to 718 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. The Spa consists of two mineral springs, and they are both saline chaly- beates ; one, called the North Well, is the strongest chalybeate ; and the other, the South Well, holds in solution the greatest portion of aperient salts. The water in both wells has frequently been analysed, and with different results, as chemical science has advanced.* On the South Cliff, above the Spa, and connected with it and the Cliff Bridge, is a magnificent assemblage of houses, — with a monstre hotel {the Crown) in the centre — called the Espla nade, which is one of the most attractive parts of the town. The promenade runs the whole length of the front of the buildings, and commands most delightful and varied prospects, including the sands, the spa, the town, the Castle, and the sea. No part of the British coast can offer a situation more delightful or con venient for the purpose of sea bathing, than Scarborough. The bay is spa- the 1st of October (the bathing season), and fourpence during the other months of the year. The receipts of the Cliff Bridge Company, for tolls and subscriptions during the season of 1856, amounted to within a few pounds of £3,000. — not including the pay ments for concerts. * The most recent analysis of the waters of these springs are those made by Eichard PhUUps, Esq., F.E.S., one of the most practical chemists of the day, in the year 1840; who found one gallon of the water of the North and South WeUs, respectively to contain : — NOBIH WEIi. Azotic Gas 6.3 cubic inches. Chloride of Sodium (common salt) 26.64 grains, CrystalUzed Sulphate of Magnesia 142.68 „ CiystalUzed Sulphate of Lime 104,00 „ Bicarbonate of lime 48.26 „ Bicarbonate of Protoxide of Iron 1.84 „ Total contents 323.42 „ Specific gravity of the water 1,0035 SOUTH WELL, Azotic Gas Jj5 cubic inches. Chloride of Sodium (common salt) 39.63 grains. Crystallized Sulphate of Magnesia 225.33 „ CiTstallized Sulphate of Lime 110.78 „ Bicarbonate of Lime ^'''•80 „ Bicarbonate of Protoxide of Iron 1.81 „ Total contents 415.35 „ Specific gravity of the water 1-0045 Temperature of both 49°, with littie variation. HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 7lS cious and open upon the sea, the waves, in general, as transparent as those in mid-ocean ; the sand clean, smooth, and even, and the beautiful and gently sloping form of the beach towards the sea is excellentiy adapted for that purpose. The brine, too, is undiluted by the discharge of any considerable river, and the beach is not so extensive as to become uncomfortably hot, even by the power of a summer's sun. Bathing can be performed at aU times of tide, and in almost aU kinds of weather, with security and ease. Dr. Russel, in ys letter to Dr. Frewin, on Sea Water, so weU pourtrays Scarborough and its environs, that one might be led to suppose it was drawn upon the spot. " The situation of a place for sea bathing," he says, " should be clean and neat ; at some distance from the opening of a river, that the water might be as highly loaded with sea-salt, and the other articles of the ocean as pos sible, and not weakened by the mixing of fresh water with its waves. In the next place one would choose the shore to be sandy and flat, for the con venience of going into the sea in a bathing-chariot. And lastly, that the sea-shore should be bounded by Uvely cUffs and downs, to add to the cheer fulness of the place, and give the person who has bathed, an opportunity of mounting on horseback dry and clean, and pursuing such exercises as may be advised by his physician, after he comes out of the bath." The sea at Scarborough is many degrees cooler in the month of August, than at Brighton, and possibly than at any place southward of the Thames. On the whole, Scarborough is of more consequence as a "watering place" than as a sea port, or a place of trade. Poet, Pipes, and Haeboue. — At the eastern ends of the sands are the Piers and Harbour. Various grants, some of them of an early date, have been made by Government for the support of this harbour. Henry HI., in the 36th year of his reign (1353), by a patent-roU, dated the 30th of July, granted to the " Bailiffs and Burgesses, and other good men of Scardeburgh," certain duties to be taken " from the day of the Assumption of the Blessed Mary to the end of five years next foUowing," in order to enable them •" to make a certain new port with timber and stone towards the sea, whereby all ships arriving there may enter and sail out without danger, as well at the l!)eginning, as at high water." This has been foUowed by renewed and ex tended grants in different reigns. In the 37th of Henry VIII. (1546), ari Act of Parliament was passed imposing a duty on vessels, for the purpose of repairing the quay or pier pf this haven. The preamble of this Act stated) "that of old antiquity this port or haven had afforded refuge and safe harbour at all tides, and at every fuU sea to ships, boats, and vessels in any adversity, tempest, or peril on the north coast, and that they had been accustomed to 730 HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. resort thither, for their safeguard and assurance, as weU of men's lives, as of vessel, goods, and merchandize ; by means of which great resort the town was well inhabited, and the inhabitants well occupied with sundry occupa tions." In the year 1635 (8th of Elizabeth), the pier being ruinous and decayed, the Queen granted five hundred pounds in money, a hundred tons of timber, and six tons of iron, in aid of rebuilding it, on condition that it was increased in height from sixteen feet, which it then was, to twenty, in breadth at the base, from thirty to forty-five feet, and at the top from nine to twelve feet. In 1605, the Bailiff and Burgesses presented an "humble petition," to King James I., setting forth that Scarborough, which had here tofore " ben a towne of great traffique by sea, as weU in trade of merchandize, as for fishing," was then "verie muche decaied and greatly depopulated;" and praying that his Majesty would, "in tender comyseration of their dis- tresse and povertie," grant them certain aid towards the maintenance of their piers. The prayer of this and several other petitions of a simUar character from other places, was granted in 1614, and a duty of fourpence for aU ships under flfty tons, and eightpence for all others above fifty, "loading at the northward," was made payable to the BaUiffs and Burgesses. This pier originaUy extended from the shore at the foot of the Castie Cliff, to the Locker House, and it is supposed that at some subsequent period a further extension was made, by a change of direction from the Locker House to the western end of the island pier, as the existence of such a junction has been confirmed by the discovery of the foundation stones. It was constructed with round stones loosely connected, and the interior part fiUed up with smaUer stones and gravel, and was, consequentiy, exposed to frequent dama ges. According to the above-mentioned petition to James I., it cost the "poore inhabitants a yearUe charge of dSlOO. and upwards in maynten- nan it." The confined and dangerous state of the old harbour, and the insufficiency of the ancient pier, being represented to ParUament, an Act was passed in the 5th of George II. (1738), for enlarging the pier and harbour, the cost being estimated at £13,000. By this Act, which is caUed the New Pier Act, certain Harbour Commissioners were appointed, and a duty of a half-penny per chaldron was imposed upon aU coals laden in any ship or vessel from Newcastle, or ports belonging to it; together with sundry other duties on imports, exports, and shipping, payable in Scarborough ; and under its pro visions an addition was made to the whole pier, extending from near the Locker House westward, to the length of 1,300 feet altogether ; the breadth is irregular, from thirteen to eighteen feet ; the new part is wider than the old, HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. 731 and near the extremity measures forty-two feet. The whole of this pier is now generaUy called the Old Pier, though some, with more propriety, call the additional new work, from the name of the engineer who finished it, Vincent's Pier. The point of junction is visible near the Locker House, and the new work may easily be distinguished from the old, by the different modes of building, and the greater regularity of the stones. In 1763, the force of the sea, in a violent gale of wind, made a breach near the Locker House ; and the waves passing through, many ships were washed out of the harbour, and driven upon the rocks to the southward of the Spa. On the evening of New Year's Day, 1767, another storm suddenly arose, by which aU the ships were broken loose frora their winter moorings, and a new vessel was washed off the stocks. These and similar occurrences proved the necessity of some further security, so the Commissioners judged it expedient to build a new pier, extending from the foot of the Castle CUff, and sweeping into the sea with a large portion of a circle — an undertaking of considerable mag nitude, it being necessary to build it of extraordinary dimensions, to resist the violence of the waves in such an exposed situation. This is now called the New, or Outer Pier. The foundation is sixty feet in breadth, and at the curvature, where there is the greatest force of the sea it is sixty-three feet. The breadth of the top is forty-two feet, and the elevation of the pier is forty feet. Its extent is about 460 yards, or 1380 feet. The ponderous rocks used in the building of this pier were taken from a quarry, the White Nabb, or Nob, an opposite point about two miles distant, and conveyed in flat-bottomed vessels called floats.* In the 3rd of George IV, (1838), another Act was obtained by the Harbour Commissioners, for levying dues on the shipping for building the New Quay, which extends from the north pier to the foot of West Sandgate, and for making other improvements, which have rendered the harbour sufficiently commodious for the trade and commerce of the port. Though rather conflned at the entrance, and likely to be warped up with sand in calm weather,! the Harbour is easy of access, even to ships of large * The White Nab Quan-y, which is a great natural curiosity, is situated about a mile beyond the Spa, It is o vast bed of flat rocks lying upon the shore in regular strata. They are separated without much diflBculty, are of a close texture, and almost impene trable to the tool by their extreme hardness. Iron chains are fixed to them when dry at low water; and as the tide flows, the floats, when there is a sufBoient depth of water, take them in by means of cranes fixed on board for the purpose. Some of these stones weigh from twenty to thirty tons. + The floating sand brought in by the tide, gradually accumulates, there being no 4 z 733 HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. burden, in spring tides ; and it is safe and commodious within — indeed it is the only port between the Humber and the Tyne, where large vessels can find refuge in violent gales from the east. The depth of water at the extremity of the pier is about twenty feet, and at neap tides about ten feet. For the direction of ships intending to enter the port, a signal is displayed every day, on the top of the Ughthouse at the end of Vincent's pier, where a Ught is exhibited as a guide by night, so long as the water continues at the depth of ten feet in the harbour. The outer harbour, or the large space en closed between the outer and Vincent's piers, is made avaUable for vessels taking refuge here. The entrance is by an opening through the latter, and room is provided for the perfect security of at least one hundred vessels. The Pari has not increased in shipping in the same proportion as some other sea-ports. In the year 1638 the ships belonging to it consisted of only twenty or twenty-two ships of large size, and some " small barques, between twenty and thirty tons burthen." In 1780 the ships of the greatest burden did not exceed 840 tons admeasurement, and the number of that description was nnder twenty ; the rest were about seventy vessels of from 60 to 160 tons ; the aggregate tonnage might be estimated at 13,000 tons. The ships, from this latter period, graduaUy increased in burden ; but the whole number in 1780 amounted to only 108. In the year 1796 the number of ships was 165, measuring 35,600 tons. In 1830, Scarborough is ranked in a Parlia mentary return, as the tenth port in England in amount of tonnage, the nine ports registering a larger tonnage being London, Newcastie, Liverpool, Sun derland, Whitehaven, HuU, Bristol, Yarmouth, and Whitby. The number of ships registered here in that year was 169, and measuring 38,070 tons, exclusive of vessels belonging to residents at Scarborough, but registered elsewhere. In that year the coasting trade inwards was 373 vessels, of 19,347 tons ; and outwards 80 vessels, of 5,467 tons. The foreign inwards was seven vessels, of 1,014 tons ; outwards, nil. In the year 1866 the coasting trade inwards was 873 vessels (same number as in 1830), measuring in the aggregate 14,479 tons; and outwards 39 of 8,436 tons. The number of vessels from foreign parts that arrived here in the same year was thirteen, of natural stream to scour it away ; and were it not for the great action of the waves in strong gales of wind from the east, and during the storms of winter, the harbour would in process of time be entirely choked up. Some idea may be formed of the progress of the encroaching. sand here, when it is made known that what is now Quay Street was originally a pai't of the old harbour, mooring-posts, having been discovered in the cellars of some of the houses in that situation. It is stated that in 1811, persons were Uving, who remembered catching fish with angling lines, from the staith on the sands, where the sea never touches now ev6n at high spring tides. HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 733 1,894 tons burden; and twenty-three in ballast; outward with cargoes^ three. The foreign trade is chiefly in Baltic and American timber, with wine, hemp, flax, &c.; and fruit from France. The present number of Vessels registered here is 193, of 34,090 tons burden. The gross receipt of Custom in 1835, was £1,188. ; in 1840,^1,887.; in 1855, £3,385.; and in 1856, £4,633. The port had the privUege of bonding granted to it in 1841. Its limits extend from the most easterly part of Flamborough Head, in a direction northward to Peasehold Beck, including aU the sea coast to fourteen fathoms pf water at low water mark.* The Fisheries are pretty extensive and profl table, there being an abundant variety of fish on the coast. The principal fish taken are cod, haddock, Ung, holibut, turbot, sole, and herrings. There are several estabUshments for curing the fish, and the bloaters cured here are considered quite equal in flavour, &c., to the noted Yarmouth bloaters. The scarr or rock, which the fishermen caU the Stream, where the fish abundantly resort, is three or four miles from Scarborough. The rock fish are firmer than those caught upon a sandy bottom. There are neither cockles nor oysters, and the number of lobsters caught is not very considerable. life Boat, dc.^—A life boat is stationed on the beach, for the preservation of shipwrecked mariners. The first Ufe boat belonging to this port was con structed at Scarborough in the year 1800 or 1801, from Mr. Greathead's plan, and was instrumental in saving much property and many lives. In 1823 a second boat was buUt, upon an improved plan ; but by the tremen dous gale which visited this coast in February, 1836, it was upset, and ten out of the crew of fourteen were drowned. Another Ufe boat was built in 1869, from a design by Mr. James Peake, assistant master-shipwright in the Government dockyard at Woolwich. This gentleman, in the course of the adjucation on the several models submitted in competition for the prize of one hundred guineas, offered by the Duke of Northumberland, had opportu nities of carefuUy examining the advantages and defects of each ; the result was a design supposed to comprise the essential quaUties in the best form, and from this design the new life boat was built at Scarborough. She is of larch, and is copper-fastened ; and her dimensions are — length over aU, • To the south of Scarborough, about three mUes along the coast, is CarneUan Bay, the great haunt of pebble hunters. When the tide is down, and the weather fine, num. hers of persons of every grade may be seen exploring the sands for their hidden trea sures. The principal pebbles found here are jaspers, moss-agates, and oarnelians; the firat-mentioned are abundant on the shore. 78'4 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 35 feet ; extreme breadth, 6 ft. 4 in. ; depth amidships, 3 ft. 1 in. ; deptli at ends, 5 feet. The great elevation of the ends, and their consisting of air boxes, give the boat, in a large degree, the property of self-righting. Ten men, viz : — eight rowers and two steersmen, form the complement of her crew. At Scarborough has also been established, under the superintendence of the Coast Guard, Captain Manby's mortar-piece and apparatus, for forming a communication from the shore, with vessels in danger of shipwreck, by ¦ means of a small rope appended to a shot, which is discharged at such au elevation as to cross thc vessel; thus enabling the crew to receive such further aid as may be necessary for their safe landing. This humane prin ciple has likewise been carried into effect by the agency of rockets, invented by the late Mr. A. G. Carte, ordnance store-keeper at HuU. The precision with which these rockets convey the communication-rope over the distance of three or four hundred yards, to the exact point of its destination, is astonishing. Population, &c. — The parish of Scarborough comprises the townships of Scarborough and Falsgrave. The area of Scarborough township, according to the Eeturn of the Census in 1851, is 1,566 acres ; and that of Falsgrave, 1,030 acres. In 1801, the population of Scarborough town was 6,403 ; in 1811, 6,710; in 1831, 8,188; in 1831, 8,369; in 1841, 9,518; and on the 31st of March, 1851, 18,087, of which number 7,378 belonged to the North Ward, and 4,809 to the South Ward. The entire population of the Borough, including the two townships, in 1851, was 13,916 souls, viz., 5,743 males, and 7,173 females. There were at the same time 8,899 houses in Scar borough township, viz., 8,664 inhabited, 303 uninhabited, and 33 building. The population of Falsgrave township was 757 souls, viz., 388 males, and 489 females. The number of houses was 186. The rateable value of Scar borough township, in September, 1856, was £45^138. ; and the rateable value of Falsgrave was £4,979. Trade, dc. — Besides the fisheries above noticed, there is a ship building estabUshment here, and two yards for building fishing smacks, luggers, &o. In 1885, six ships were built here, the tonnage of which was 1,561 ; in 1831, three, tonnage 530 ; in 1839, two, tonnage 407 ; in 1860, one, tonnage 800 ; and in 1853, two measuring 386 tons. A Floating Dock for the repair of vessels, was formed by a Company of shareholders, in 1850. A steam packet arrives here from Middlesborough every Saturday, and returns on Monday, aU through the year; and during the summer months several steamers ply between this port and those of BridUngton, Whitby, &o. The town is lighted with gas — the Gas Company having been estabUshed in 1836, and HISTOEY OF SOAHBOEOUOa, 736 incorporated in 1851. The erection of the works of the Company, which are situated in Quay Street, cost £7,000., raised in shares of ten pounds each.* The Water Works are situated near Cayton, about two miles distant, and the fresh water is conveyed to the town in pipes. The prosperity of Scarborough depends almost entirely on the patronage which is bestowed upon it as a watering place. The authorities of the town aware of this fact, constantly adopt every means to maintain the high character it has acquired as a place of fashionable resort. The number of visitors re siding here during the season amounts to several thousands ; and the yearly increasing size of the town is an index to its continued success. The exten sion of the EaUway to Scarborough from York and Hull, has done much to advance the interests of the place. Maekets and Faies. — The weekly markets are held on Thursdays and Saturdays — the former chiefly for corn — and there is a third weekly market on Tuesdays during the summer season. Fairs for cattle, toys, &c., take place on Holy Thursday and Old Martinmas Day. The earliest account of a market at Scarborough is in the year 1181, where, as it is stated in an old document still preserved, that King Henry II., " being then seized of a market at Scarborough, gave the same to the burgesses there," By a charter of Henry HI,, in 1853, amongst other privileges, " the burgesses and their heirs for ever " were authorised to have one fair in the Borough every year, " to continue from the feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Mary (August 16th), untU the feast of St, Michael next foUowing," This fair or free mart was an important privilege, and attracted a great concourse of strangers, for whose accommodation booths and tents were erected in the streets, between Palace HiU, and the south-east wall of the town, hence caUed Merchants' Row, Various sorts of merchandise and foreign wares from Flanders, &c,, were brought to the mart in great quantities. Minstrels, jugglers, and all the ancient scenes of merriment abounded. The annual return of the day was celebrated as a jubilee by the inhabitants, and the fair was proclaimed with much ceremony, the town's officers being mounted on horseback, pre ceded by a band of music, and attended by crowds of people. The cavalcade paraded the streets, halting at particular stations where the common cryer, in a doggerel composition, probably coeval with the mart itself, made procla- • The Scarborough Guide of 1796 says, " In Scarborough streets there are no lamps! the reason assigned is, lest they should be broken I moreover, that two individuals hung np two lamps, and they both ' got broke,' " 736 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. mation, and welcomed the strangers to the town.* The day upon which thia ceremony took place (August 13th), was corruptiy called "Jabler's day," tha inhabitants being summoned at this time to pay their gablage, the tax imposed upon the houses of the town by Henry II. (See page 788.) In the 40th of Henry III. (1866), the markets of Filey, Sherburn, and Brompton, were suppressed at the suit of the Bailiffs and Burgesses of Scarborough, because they were found to be injurious to the market at Scarborough. The markets of Scarborough and Seamer were the source of many years' litigation. The latter market was granted by Eichard TL., to Henry, Earl of Northumberland, in the year 1883, with the usual exception, " if it should not be found injurious to neighbouring markets and fairs ;" and the same Monarch having in the year following confirmed the former grant to Scarborough, the market at Seamer was never kept from that time tiU the year 1677 (19th Elizabeth), when Sir Henry Gate, Knt., then proprietor of Seamer, procured an exemplification of the charter of Eichard II. The BaiUffs and Burgesses then commenced a suit or trial, in the Court of Queen's Bench, for the suppression of the said market, on the score of its being injurious to Scarborough ; and they showed that the numbers of the various trades' com panies of the town had been greatly reduced, and that the grass grew in the Market Place of Scarborough, after the estabUshment of Seamer market, and that the shipping and houses were gone much to decay. After, as we stated, several years' Utigation, at a cost of upwards of two thousand pounds, judg ment was given in 1603 (44th EUzabeth), in favour of Scarborough. Not withstanding this decision, a new grant for a market at Seamer, was obtained by Thomas Mompesson, Esq., then proprietor of that estate, in the 7th of James I. (1610), under the great seal of England, but with the same excep tion as in the former grants. The market at Seamer was at length finaUy suppressed by a charter speciaUy granted for that purpose to the BaiUffs and Burgesses of Scarborough by the same Monarch, in 1613. * This mart has long been disused, although the annual custom of proclaiming it in procession was continued untU the year 1788, in terms nearly as follow : " Lords, gentlemen and loqns. You're welcome to our towns, — You're welcome here to stay UntU St. Michael's day, — But toUs and customs pay. From latter Lammas day. — —To Burgesses we say — Pay your gablage, pray." " God save the King, and the WorsUsfid Mr. Bayliffs." HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 737 Tradition says that the first market-place in Scarborough, was near the covered rope-walk, north of ToUer Gate, and a great blue stone, whioh until lately formed part of the wall of the fields adjoining the Lancasterian Schools, and is now deposited in the Museum, is said to have been the place where public bargains were made and ratifled. Mr. Hinderwell says that this tradition is " confirmed by an ancient deed, late in the possession of the executors of Mr. John Parkin, whioh states that one of the flelds now ad joining the Eope-waUi, then butted upon the Market Street, in the north." It is probable from the name of the adjoining street (Toller Gate), that market toUs were formerly paid there. The markets in Scarborough have since been held in different parts of the town, according to the peculiar changes required by tbe times. In the reign of Edward VI,, both the markets and fairs were held upon the Sands. There are stiU the remains of a very ancient Market Cross (a taU stone piUar curiously carved), preserved at the end of Low Con duit Street ; and public proclamations continue to be read there. This cross is mentioned frequently in the Corporation records, as the Butter Cross. One of the adjoining streets is yet known by the name of Saturday Market, UntU of late the markets have been held in and near Newborough Street, and an old building, caUed the Market Cross, stood in the centre of the space at the south end of Cross Street, caUed St, Helen's Square ; but the removal of this cross, and the erection of the new Market HaU, has been found to be one of the greatest improvements yet effected in Scarborough, A description of the latter edifice wiU be found with the other pubUc buildings in the town. The Corn Market is now held in Newborough Street, near the end of Queen Street ; and the Fish Market (wholesale) is kept on the sands, near the har bour, and (retail) in the Market HaU, In the latter place is the market, also, for butcher's meat, poultry, eggs, butter, fruit, vegetables, &c, ; and the supply of every kind is mostly abundant. Banks. — The banking estabUshments in the town are, the Scarborough Old Bank(WooiaR, Hebden, & Co,), 37, Queen Street; which draws on Hey wood, Kennard, & Co, ; and a Branch of the York City and County Banking Co., 60, Newbro' Street, which draws on Barnett, Hoare, & Co, The Scarborough Savings' Bank is held in a neat buUding in King Street, From the report of the institution for the year ending November, 30th, 1866, it appears that the sums received of depositors during that year, was £11,847, And at that date the amount deposited was £61,703,, belonging to 1,674 depositors, viz,, 553 minors, 811 spinsters, 138 town servants, 158 country servants, 63 labourers, 80 sailors, fishermen, and carpenters, 883 smaU trades- 738 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH, people, mechanics, and others, 175 wives and widows, 9 cow clubs, 15 chari table societies, and 6 friendly societies,* CrviL GovEENMENT, — Scarborough is said to be a Borough by prescription, that is, a Borough in virtue of customs and privileges, which, from imme morial usage, obtained the force of law. However, it is clear from authentic records, that the town was incorporated by charter in the reign of Henry n.,-|' A,D, 1181,, wherein a still earlier grant by Henry I,, is distinctly referred to. The charter of Henry II,, grants unto the burgesses of Escardeburgh, all the customs, liberties, &c,, which the citizens of York enjoyed through all the land in the time of Henry I. ; whilst it claims of the inhabitants the tax caUed Gablage, that is, fourpence for every house in the town, whose gable was turned towards the way, or street ; and for those, whose sides were in the same position, sixpence,| The customs, liberties, &c., granted by this charter, were confirmed by King John, in 1300 ; by Henry III., in 1863 ; and these grants and privileges were confirmed, defined, and extended to the " Bailiffs and Burgesses of the Town of Scardeburgh," by the charters of sixteen of the succeeding Monarchs. The charter, or letters patent, dated November S8nd, 1356 (30th Edward IIL), confirmed by Henry VI, and Charles L, contains the most authentic evidence extant of the ancient con stitution and privileges of the Borough, The more ancient charters ara therein recorded " to have been maliciously destroyed by Adam Eeginaldson Carter, one of the Chamberlains of the town, whereby great discords and dis sensions had been moved and excited in the community ; and the usages » The capital deposited in Savings' Banks in 1856, amounted, in whole numbers, to the enormous sum of £34,000,889,, belonging to no less than 1,339,000 depositors. In the course of that year there were 1,409,000 deposits, and 793,000 withdrawals of money. The amount deposited during the year was £7,740,000., in sums averaging about £5. each ; the amount withdrawn was £8,020,000., in sums averaging about £10. each. The number of new accounts opened was 221,000, with a deposit in small sums amounting to £2,155,000. ; the number of accounts closed was 193,000, and the sum withdrawn was £3,696,000. + It may not be out of place to observe en passant that the heart of King Henry II. of England, has just been presented by the Municipal Council of Orleans (France) to Dr. GUlis, a Scottish Catholic Bishop, while on a visit to that City, with the desire that he may offer the same to the British Government. Henry II. died at Chinon in k.v. 1186, and was buried at Fontevrault; his heart enclosed in au iron um, fell during the Eevolution into the hands of a collector of curiosities, who presented it to the Museum of Orleans. t By the amount of the Gablage, £16. 17s. lid., Uth Edward IIL ("1341), it is evident that the number of houses in Scarborough at that early period, was not less than seven or eigl^t hundred. HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 739 ordained from ancient time had been retracted, made void, and disused for a long time past, to the great damage of the poor men of the said town there residing, and of other people of the Kingdom." An inquisition was there upon held at York on the 10th of December, 1364, before certain Lords Justices, and twelve jurors, to reduce to writing, the ancient customs and mode of government of the Borough, when the above-mentioned charter of Edward HI. was granted, on the unanimous appUcation of a numerous meeting of the Burgesses, assembled at the Chapter House of the Friars Minors, at Scarborough. By this charter the government of the town was vested in a Common CouncU of forty-four persons, viz., two Bailiffs, two Coroners, four Chamberlains, and thirty-six Capital Burgesses, Richard HI,, by a charter, in 1486, changed the form of the constitution of the Borough, by appointing a Mayor, a Sheriff, and twelve Aldermen ; the Mayor to be sworn into office " by our Constable of the Castle at Scarde burgh," &c. He also granted that the town of " Scardeburgh and Manor of Wallesgrave " should be one entire County of itself; incorporated, distinct, and separate from the County of York, and ever to be esteemed and named "The County of the Town of Scardeburgh,"* This charter is not recited or recognised by any of the succeeding Kings, In the beginning of the reign of Henry VIL, the Corporation returned to its ancient mode of government by BaUiffs and Burgesses, which prevailed without interruption until 1684, when Chaiies TT. incorporated forty-four persons (the same number as the Bailiffs and Burgesses had heretofore been), under the title of Mayor, Alder men, and thirty-one Common Councillors, This charter, which was under an arbitrary measure for the remodelling of Corporations, by introducing a Mayor, Aldermen, &c,, to be removable at the pleasure of the Crown, was set aside at the Eevolution in 1688, when the last Mayor was " tossed in a blanket;"! and the Bailiffs were elected as before. The thirty-six Common • Mr. Hinderwell mentions a field near the west end of the common, a little to the north of the York road, which is stUl caUed Gallows Close; and where three human skeletons were found, supposed to have been the remains of malefactors, executed in the County of the Town of Scarborough. t King James II, caused a declaration for liberty of conscience throughout his domi nions, to be pubUshed on the 27th of April, 1688, and ordered the same to be read in all the Churches in the Kingdom, A copy of this being sent to the Mayor of Scarbo rough (Mr. Aislabie), he ordered the Vicar to read the same publicly at the Cburch on the foUowing Sunday. The Vicar, believing that it was the King's secret intention to restore the ancient faith of the country, refused to publish the document; whereupon the Mayor caned him in the reading desk during the time of Divine Service. This behaviour was particularly taken up by a Captain (Ousley) in the army, who was then 5 A 730 HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. CouncUmen were classed in three benches or " twelves," denominated the First, Second, or Third Twelve. The first twelve was a superior bench, usuaUy arranged according to seniority, by a Committee of twelve of the second and third benches, or Chamberlains, which Committee {caReAf adores) was nominated by the Bailiffs. The first twelve thus formed, arranged the second and third twelves, and fiUed up the vacancies occasioned by the death of any of the members. This mode of government continued to the passing of the Municipal Eeform Act, in 1835, which placed the civil government of the town under a Council of six Aldermen and eighteen CounciUors peri- odicaUy elected, from whom a Mayor is annuaUy chosen; and under the usual corporate style. Before the Act of 1835, the elections of BaiUffs, Capital Burgesses, or Common CouncUmen, &c., of Scarborough, were appointed to be annual, but by usage a system of self-electing rotation came to be practised, to the exclu sion of new members.* Freemen were exempted from tolls, and partially exempted from harbour-dues at Scarborough, and privUeged not to serve on juries out of the Borough, the boundaries of which were appointed to coincide with those of the parish. By a charter of Henry V., the two BaUiffs were the only Justices of the Peace for the Borough, and they held Quarter Ses- at Church. The ofiScer, next day, sent for the Mayor to the old bowUng-green ; but the Mayor taking no notice of his message, the Captain sent a file of musketeers to compel his attendance ; these having brought him to the said place, he was obliged to undergo Sanoho Panza's rough and humUiating discipline of being tossed in a blanket, at the hands of Captains Ousley, CarvU, Fitzherbert, Hanmer, and Eodney, with their assis tants. The Mayor immediately set out for London, to obtain redress from the King, and his adversary thought it proper to follow him. Both were heard before the Council, the Captain pleaded his Majesty's gracious pardon, and so both were dismissed.— IfSS. Donat. p. 317. • In the year 1790-1 the freemen of the Borough claimed and contested the right of electing the BaUiffs and other members of the Common CouncU. The freemen first assembled aud sent a deputation to the Town Hall, to protest in their name against any election or choice of Bailiffs, Coroners, &c., without their concurrence; when the Town Clerk, in reply, stated that the Corporation, being fuUy satisfied that the freemen at large had never exercised or claimed any right of voting or otherwise interfering in the election of Bailiffs, Coroners, &o., felt bound in duty to adhere to the practice of their predecessors, and therefore they were under the necessity of refusing to receive their votes and assistance upon that occasion — it being the day for electing the officers of the Council. The case was taken to the King's Bench, and argued in the Easter term of 1791, when the four Justices who heard it were unanimously of opinion that they had no power to alter the ancient usage of the Borough. Thia decision terminated the contest. HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH, 731 sions with exclusive jurisdiction ; also, a Court of Pleas for the trial of personal and mixed actions to any amount ; and Manor Courts — the Corpo ration being Lords of the Manor of Scarborough and Falsgrave — as well as weekly Petty Sessions ; but they had no Court of Eequests, Under the Municipal Act the Borough is included in schedule A, amongst those to have a Commission of the Peace, which has accordingly been granted, and the Court of Quarter Sessions and a Eecorder appointed; and in section I. of that schedule, amongst those the Parliamentary boundaries of which were to be taken for Municipal purposes, till altered by Parliament ; those boundaries coincide with the old Municipal and parish boundaries. Those laid down 'in the Municipal Boundary Eeport are restricted to the more immediate vicinity of the town, including the village of Falsgrave, which is now continuous with Scarborough. The Borough is divided into two wards — north and south. The Mayor (the Chief Magistrate) and the other Magistrates or Justices of the Peace, appointed under a Eoyal Com mission, act exclusively as Magistrates for the Borough and local jurisdic tion; but the power of holding Quarter Sessions is vested solely in the Eecorder, whose duty is likewise to preside at the Court of Pleas — a tribunal which has fallen into disuse, being virtually superseded by the County Court. The Arms of the Borough, which bear the marks of great antiquity, are a rude resemblance of a watch tower orcastie, a Norman ship of the rudest form, and a star ; with the inscription or legend, in the Saxon or Lombardic character : — " Sigillum Commune Burgensium de Scardeburg" This seal is registered in the Herald's office, is without date, and is there classed amongst the most ancient. The seal of office formerly used by the BaiUffs, and now by the Mayors, of Scarborough, is a ship only, of a very ancient form, with two towers on the deck, and a smaUer one at the top of the mast. The in scription is " Sigillum Ville de Scardeburg." The chief Officers of the Corporation for the year 1857, are as foUows : — John Wheldon, Esq., Mayor. The Honorable Edward Phipps, Recorder. AUermen.—The present Mayor, and W. B. Fowler, G. WUUs, Eobert Tindall, and W. Holden, Esquires; one of the Aldermanio seats being vacant in consequence of tha death of John Uppleby, Esq. Tam Clerk.— 3. J. P. Moody, Esq. Clerk of the Peace.— WilUam B. Coulson, Esq. The Borough Magistrates are John Wheldon, Esq. (Mayor), Samuel Standidge Byron, John Kelk, M.D,, Wm, Harland, M,D,, John Wharton, Wm, B, Fowler, Eobert Tindall, Thomas WeddeU, and WUUam Bottomley, Esquires, Magistrates' Clerk.— E. S, Donner, Esq. 733 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. The Income of the Corporation of Scarborough for the year ending 81st of August, 1856, was £3,461. (including a balance in the treasurer's hands, in the beginning of the year, of £408. 10s.), derived from rents, tolls, borough rates, &c.; and the Expenditure of the same year amounted to £1,896., leaving a balance with the treasurer of £645, The Income of the Commissioners of the town under the Improvement Act, for the year ending 5th April, 1857, was £4,896, ; including £8,608, the amount of an improvement rate at two shiUings in the pound; and £540, from the scavenging department, viz :— the sale of manure. The Expendi ture of the Commissioners for the same year was £3,796. Notwithstanding the importance and antiquity of this Borough, its Chief Magistrate never possessed or wore any distinguishing emblem or insignia of office until the year 1858, when the then Mayor, John WoodaU, Esq., on his retiring from office, presented to the Mayor and Corporation a coUar and badge, of massive gold, to be worn by all succeeding Chief Magistrates of Scarborough, on all occasions of public reception and official duty. This elegant chain and badge, which is of exquisite finish and workmanship, is of solid gold, weighing sixteen ounces. The collar is composed of a rose — the emblem of the County — alternated with ornaments of a mediseval character, with shoulder pieces composed of the Mayor's seal of office. To the collar is attached, in the form of a pendant, the badge, on one side of which- is en graved the common seal of the Borough, and on the other the foUowing in scription — " The gift of John Woodall, Esq., to the Mayor and Corporation of Scarborough, 9th November, 1853," CouETs, — The Court of Quarter Sessions is held in the Town Hall, before the Hon. E. Phipps, Eecorder. Petty Sessions are regularly held every Wednesday, in the Town Hall, by the Magistrates of the Borough ; and by the Magistrates of the North Eiding, in the same place, every Thursday. The County Couri, for the recovery of debts, damages, and demands, when the amount sought to be recovered does not exceed £50., is likewise held in the Town Hall, monthly. William Eaines, Esq., is the Judge of this Court, Feanchise, — Scarborough is one of the most ancient privileged Boroughs which sends members to Parliament, The first instance upon record of the Boroughs being summoned to send representatives is in the year 1864 (48th of Henry III,), during the usurpation of the Earl of Leicester; but the meeting of this Parliament had been prevented by intestine troubles whioh then- prevailed. In the succeeding year, 1365, another Parliament was con- yened, when the writs of summons to the Boroughs were directed generally. HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH, 733 But in the memorable ParUament assembled in the 11th of Edward I, (1883), the writs were more expUcit, and shew that Scarborough was one of the privUeged Boroughs summoned to send members. The first summoned aU the Earis and Barons by name to the number of one hundred and ten, to meet the King at Shrewsbury, on the 80th of September, The second was directed to the Sheriff of each County, to cause to be chosen two Knights of the Commonalty of the same County ; the third was addressed to the several Cities and Boroughs (only twenty in number*) ; and a fourth to the judges. We have no carUer record than this of any individual being summoned from either City or Borough by name. It has been supposed by some that the right of election was originally vested in the burgesses of Scarborough ; but, if so, it was soon restricted to the Common Council, and the Bailiffs were the returning officers. This was contested by the freemen, after the election which foUowed the death of Sir William Strickland, Bart., one of the Borough members, in 1785. The candidates were, Thomas, Lord DuppUn, and WiUiam Osbaldeston, Esq. The Bailiffs being in the minority of the Com mon CouncU, poUed the freemen at large, and thus returned Lord DuppUn. Mr. Osbaldeston, having a majority of votes of the Corporation, petitioned against the return, as contrary to the constitution and ancient usage of the .Borough ; and after examining the case in aU its bearings, the Committee of the House of Commons resolved that in their opinion " the right of election to serve in Parliament for the Borough of Scarborough in the County of York, is in the Common-house or Common-council of the said Borough, con sisting of two Bailiffs, two Coroners, four Chamberlains, and thirty-six Bur gesses only " — consequently Lord DuppUn was unseated, and Mr. Osbaldeston waa declared duly elected. The right of the Corporation to be the sole electors of parliamentary representatives was only superseded by the Parlia mentary Eeform Act of 1883, which extended the right of election to the ten pound resident householders ; reserving to the former electors the right of voting so long as they continued to reside within seven mUes of the town of Scarborough. The Borough is divided into two wards; the Municipal boundaries are co extensive with those for parliamentary purposes. The Mayor is the returning officer. The present representatives of the Borough in Parliament are, Sir • The Cities and Boroughs are York, Bristol, Exeter, Canterbury, Scarborough, Win chester, Norwich, Nottingham, Shrewsbury, CarUsle, Hereiord, Grimsby, Lynn, New- lastle-upon-Tyne, Lincoln, Northampton, Colchester, Yarmouth, Chester, and Worcester, Thus it will be seen that Scarborough was the only town in Yorkshire, except the City ;0f York, that was summoned to send representatives. 734 HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. John Vanden Bempde Johnstone, Bart,, and the Eight Hon. the Earl of Mulgrave, both of whom were re-elected at the General Election, which took place in the early part of the present year, 1857, Scarborough is a polUng place at the election of representatives of the North Eiding. Miscellaneous Mems. — Besides the general privUeges and Municipal rights granted to the Corporation, there are many other grants for particular purposes, viz : — one from Henry HE., in 1858, for making a port or haven, as heretofore noticed; one from Edward VL, in 1661, confirming a former grant of the sands ; and several others for murage, paveage, and quayage. The earliest grant for murage, or toUs on vessels using the port, for the pur pose of endowing and fortifying the town, occurs in 1336 (9th Henry TTT). The most ancient record of paveage, or grants of toU for paving the town, is in 1335 (88th Edw, III.), although the Dominican Friars had paved a street at Scarborough, so early as the year 1899 (87th Edw. I). The foUowing is an extract from an ancient work entitled " Chronicon Preciosum," and shows the price of cattie at Scarborough, in the year 1398 ; an ox, 6s. 8d. ; a cow, 5s. ; a heifer, Ss. ; a sheep. Id. When King Edward I., after his conquest of Scotiand, visited Lord Wake, at Cottingham, near HuU, in 1308, the men of Kingston-upon-HuU and the men of Eavenser presented petitions to him and his Council, praying the grant of various privUeges ; and among others " That they may be free of townage, pannage, passage,' paveage, murage, and all other customs throughout Eng land, &c., as are the men of Scardeburgh." In 1349 the Corporations of Hull and Scarborough entered into an agree ment, that they and their heirs should hereafter be mutuaUy exempted in each place from all manner of toUs, quayage, customs, &c. In 1618 James I. suppressed the market of Seamer in favour of the Scarborough market. So early as the 7th of Edward IV. (1468), there existed in Scarborough, according to the Corporate Eecords, the foUowing chartered Trading Com panies : — Mercatores, Merchants ; Carpentarii, Carpenters or Joiners ; Fahri, Smiths; rorpi/^catores. Blacksmiths and Wiremakers ; i^^stiones, Eopemakers or Estrynglayers ; Latomi, Masons; Tegularii, Slaters; Pistores, Bakers; Camifices, Butchers; Scissores, TaUors; Alutavii, Shoemakers; Cerdones, Barkers or Tanners ; Tonsores, Barbers ; Candelimatores, Chandlers ; Textores, Weavers ; Chirothecarii, Glovers ; Fullones, FuUers ; Portotores, Porters ; and Pictores, Painters. During the years 1651 and 1653, the coasting trade of Scarborough was much annoyed by hostile vessels, commissioned by the exiled King (Charles II.) ; and likewise by Dutch ships of war. Several instances of native gal- HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. 735 lantry and enterprise are preserved among the records and public journals of this eventful period. On the 83rd of September, 1779, a gaUant sea-fight, between the squad rons of Captain Eichard Pearson and the noted Paul Jones, took place off Scarborough — the particulars of which are related at page 5^71 of this volume. It may be added that Captain Pearson afterwards received the honour of knighthood for his bravery ; and the freedom of the Borough of Scarborough was presented to him and his gaUant coUeague, Captain Piercy or Percy, in two boxes of " heart of oak," ornamented with silver. The first printing press established in Scarborough was set up by Mr. Thomas Gent, in the month of June, 1734, " in a house in Mr. Bland's lane, formerly called his cUff ; a most pleasant situation, leading to the beautiful Bands." On the night of Monday, the 10th of November, 1856, a dreadful fire broke out at the foot of Bland's Cliff, near the sands, by which a steam saw- miU, and a block of buildings consisting of five or six houses, occupied by no less than seventeen families, were entirely destroyed. This dire calamity occurred between eleven and twelve o'clock at night, and occasioned the greatest consternation and alarm among the inhabitants. The fire engines of the town and Castle were backed into the sea, the tide being flowing at the time, and were manned by soldiers (from the garrison), sailors, and towns people, who stood up to the knees in the water. In addition to these, two other engines arrived from York on Tuesday morning, and notwithstanding aU this, the fire raged for about eleven hours. " When the whole mass of premises had got on fire," says an eye-witness, " the sight that was presented was terrific, yet awfully grand. The flames shot up to a great altitude, iUu- minating the whole of the cUff, with the houses upon it, the Castle hiU, the shipping, &o., — a scene fearful to behold — whUst the sands, the pier, and every avaUable spot of ground which afforded a good view of what was taking place, was crowded with spectators." The extent of the loss was up to three thousand pounds. Title. — Scarborough gives the title of Earl to the noble family of Lumley. On the 31st of May, 1681, Eichard, Viscount Lumley in the Irish peerage, was enrolled in the peerage of England, and on the 15th of April following, was created Earl of Scarborough. Eichard George Lumley Savile, of Tick- hill Castie, the ninth, and present Earl of Scarborough, is the only son of Frederick Lumley, Esq., by Charlotte, daughter of the Eight Eev., George de la Poer Beresford, Bishop of KUmore. He was married in October, 1846, to Frederica Mary Adeliza, second daughter of Andrew Eobert Drummond, 736 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. Esq., by whom he has several children. He succeeded to the title, and a a portion of the family estates (the late Earl having cut off the entail of his estates), at the death of his cousin, John Lumley Savile, the eighth Earl, who died at Sandbeck Park, near TickhiU, Yorkshire, in November, 1856. St. Maey's Chuech, Castle Road. — ^In the preceding pages we have noticed the several ancient Churches and Chapels which once flourished in Scarborough, viz :— the Chapel within the Castle, the Oratory or Chapel of the Carmelites, called the CharneU Chapel, and the Churches or Chapels of St. Thomas and of the Holy Sepulchre. AU the ancient Churches and Chapels here have disappeared, with the exception of St. Mary's, which was the only one available for the accommodation of the parishioners for several centuries. In the account of the Cistercian Abbey, it has been shown that . the Church of St. Mary, and all right of the Crown in the Eectory, were given up to the Cistercians in the 13th of Edward I, (1383) ; and the Vicar* of the Church was afterwards appointed by the Abbot.-]- It has likewise been seen how the possessions of the Abbey, having been seized by King Henry IV, as an Alien Priory, were granted by that Monarch to the custody of the Priory and Convent of Bridlington; and how in the reign of Henry VIII,, the Eectory of Scarborough was seized by the King as a parcel of the possessions of the attainted Priory of Bridlington,]: and thus passed into lay hands. Many ancient benefactions were made to this Church by the pious inhabi tants of the town, Aylmar de Clifford gave Uberally to St. Mary's altar, with money for oblations and three priests to officiate. A toft was bestowed by Osbert de Hansard ; a house on the rock was given by Walter son of Gunner, and money by his brother Eichard ; some land on the Cliff was granted by Wm. de Harton: and a parcel in the town by Thomas de Har din. Galfrid de Lutton and Galfrid de Croom gave lands to this Church. * For the origin of Vicarages, see page 379 of this volume, + Cart, 13 Edward I., No. 37, t WilUam Wode or Wolde, Prior of Bridlington, having engaged in Aske's rebellion, was attainted of high treason, iu 1537, and executed at Tyburn. (See page 185.) On the defection of this Prior, the possessions of the Priory were declared to be forfeited to the King. HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. 737 In 1319 Emera, the daughter of Eobert de Filey, was a liberal benefactress, and there exists a long list of inhabitants who foUowed her bountiful example. During the siege of the Castle, in 1645, the centre tower of St. Mary's Church was shaken to such a degree, that in October, 1659, it feU and carried with it a great part of the south wall of the nave, viz., that part west of the break in the present waU. In the 18th of Charles II.,(1660), a brief to enable the parishioners of Scarborough to rebuild their dUapidated Church, was granted ; from which brief the foUowing is an extract : — " Charles II. by the Grace of God, &c. Whereas, we are credibly informed by the humble petition of the inhabitants of Scarborough, as also by a certificate subscribed with the hands of divers of our Justices of the Peace, &c., that during the late wars, our said town of Scarborough was twice stormed, and the said inhabitants disabled from foUowing their ancient trade, whereby they are much impoverished, and almost ruined in their estates ; and that nothing might be wanting to make their condition more deplorable, their two fair Churches were by the violence of the cannon beaten down ; that in one day there were three-score pieces of ordnance discharged against the steeple of the upper Church, called St. Mary's, and the choir thereof quite beaten down; and the steeple thereof so shaken, that notwithstanding the endea vours of the inhabita,nts to' repair the same, the steeple and bells, upon the tenth day of October last, fell and brought down with it most part of the body of the said Church ; but the other Church, caUed St. Thomas' Church, was by the violence of the ordnance quite ruined and battered down ; so that the said Church, called St. Mary's, must be rebuilt, or otherwise the said inhabitants will remain destitute of a place wherein to assemble for the public worship of Almighty God. And that the charges of rebuilding the Church, called St. Mary's, will cost two thousand five hundred pounds at the least, which of themselves they are not able to disburse, their fortunes being almost ruined by the calamities of the late war, as aforesaid." By this brief the sum of £347. 7s. 6^d. was collected ; of which £64. only were from London and ten southern Counties. A rate of £84. 3s. was also laid upon the parish. The money thus raised was expended in 1669, in the rebuilding of part of the nave, north aisle, and the tower as it now stands, on the foundation and ruin of the old fabric* The following curious document is iUustrative of the habits and manners of the people before the period of the Eeformation : — " A compocition made * The accounts of the repairs shew that the hire of a labourer -was then no more than. from sixpence to tenpence per day. 5 B 738 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. by the bailiers and the comons for the devyne service to be done at the hey chyrche, [Scarborough.] 30 Septimb, 33 Henry VH. 1506. Ffyrst it is ordaynd and enacted by the assent and consentt of the said bayliers and comons, that in winter to go to Mattynes of the holy day at vij of the cloke and that the Clerke ryng at the half owre of \j of the cloke the fyrst x peele and to go to the high messe at x of the cloke ; and to the Evening song at half owre to iiij of the cloke and to ryng the fyrst peele at half owre of iij of the cloke. Also it is inacted by the assent of the comons that the said parych clerk shaU ryng every market day at the morne bell at half owre to v of the cloke, and to ryng it the space of half an owre. Also it is inacted by the foresaid comons that the said parych clerk shall ryng at nyctht at viij of the cloke of the market day, and at vij of the cloke upon the holy day and he to ryng the space of half an owre. Also in the summer to go to mattyns at vj of the oloke, and to messe at x of the cloke, and to ring after the rate above said. Also it is ordayned & inacted by the assemble of al the said Comons that every man of the ffyrst xij & the Chamblaynes kepe their order of processyon every Sunday and double festival, with Maister BayUers upon pain of every man lib. Wax." Chantries.* — ^In addition to the Chantries and Chantry altars in this Church, commonly known as the Chantry of the Blessed Virgin, and those of St. Stephen, St. James, and St. Nicholas, mentions occurs in the list of testamentary burials, of the Chapels of St. Clement and St. Crux, and the Chancels of Corpus Christi and St. Christopher. Where these last six were situated cannot now be determined with any degree of accuracy. All Chan tries and the services connected with them, were abolished by a statute passed in the reign of King Edward VI. Galon's Chantry, at the altar of St. James, was founded in 1380, that masses, and prayers might be offered for the eternal rest of the soul of Eobert Galon, a burgess of Scarborough, who endowed it with six pounds per ann. The presentation of Cantarist after his death was vested in the BaiUffs and Burgesses. The valuation of this Chantry in the 36th of Henry VHI. (1535), is stated at £3. 13s. 3d. per ann. Edwyn or Mylner's Chantry, or the Chantry of the Blessed Virgin,, was or dained 80th May, 1396, at the altar of St. Mary the Virgin, being founded by the BaUiffs and Community of Scarborough, for the souls of Emerie - Eor Chantries see page 181 of this volume. HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. 739 Edwyn and Eeginald Mylner, &c., and it- was endowed with £6. per ann. The patronage was vested in the said Bailiffs and Burgesses ; and the esti- mated annual value in 1535, was £3. 15s. 5d. BiUington's Chantry was founded about 1394, in this Church, at the altar of St. Stephen, the proto-martyr, by Eobert EiUington, who endowed it with about £3. per aim., to be conferred upon a priest to celebrate perpetual masses for his soul, and of EUene his wife, &c. The BaiUffs and Burgesses had the appointment of Cantarists, or priests. The jJhantry at the Altar of St. Nicholas was founded in this Church, in the reign of Eichard IL, and endowed with five houses and five acres of land, and was likewise in the presentation of the Bailiffs, &o., of Scarborough. There is no mention of this or of EiUington 's Chantry in the " Valor Eccle- msticvs." The living of St. Mary's is now a Discharged Vicarage, in the patronage of Lord Hotham, and incumbency of the Eev. John WilUam Whiteside, D.CL. It is valued in the King's Books at £13. 6s. 8d. ; returned at £60. ; gross income about £340. This Church, which we need scarcely add, is dedicated in honour of the Blessed Virgin, frequentiy styled St. Mary the Virgin, was formerly a spacious and magnificent structure. The ruins of the east end of the chancel, or choir, still seen in the eastern part of the Churchyard, the dismembered ap pearance of the west end of the building, the subterraneous arches extending to the west, and the great quantity of foundation stones discovered in the new burial ground contiguous to it, are sufficient proofs, that it is, in its present state, only a smaU portion of a vast edifice, which probably formed the Cistercian Abbey and the Church in ancient times. In its original design and arrangement this Church was cruciform, and consisted of a nave with Jiorth and sonth aisles and Chantry Chapels, and western towers ; a central tower, with north and south transepts, and a choir with north and south aisles. In the time of Henry VIIL, according to Leland, the Church was a very noble buUding, adorned with three handsome towers, two of which, he says, were at the western end, and one was over the centre of the transept. The last mentioned tower feU, as above stated, from the effects of the siege ,of the Castie, in October, 1659, and the present tower, which now stands angularly at the east end of the edifice, occupies its place. The time and the cause' of the demoUtion of the two western towers do not appear to he weU ascertained. In plan, the Church now consists of nave with south •aisle, and side Chapels, two north aisles, a south transept and porch, and an east tower. The order, in point of date, in which the various parts 740 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. of the Church, prior to its present restoration, were buUt, is supposed by good authorities to be as follows : — The two western towers and the arch of the central tower at the end of the nave, the latter end of the twelfth century ; and in aU probability the central tower and transept were of the same date. The side walls of the nave and clerestory as high as the string course above the clerestory windows, were next carried up, jn the early part of the thirteenth century. The piers and arches next the north aisle, the work of the fourteenth century, as weU as the south transept, and in aU pro babiUty the north, which corresponded with it. The four south Chapels, south porch, parise, and west doorway, the work of the fifteenth century. The extreme north aisle, called St. Nicholas' Aisle, was originaUy built prior to the fifteenth century, but its present waUs were erected after the restoration in the seventeenth century, out of the old materials. The choir, which ex tended 115 feet in length, was built about the same time as the south porch and west door. Divine Service was performed in this Church on Sunday, October 15th, 1848, prior to its restoration ; and it was re-opened by the Archbishop of York, on Thursday, 85 th of July, 1850. The total cost of the restoration amounted to about £7,000.; which sum was raised by subscription, the principal contributors being John Woodall, Esq.>, £500. ; Lord Hotham, £300. ; W. J. Denison, Esq., £300. ; Eev. E. H. WoodaU, John Uppleby, Esq., W. D. T. Duesbury, Esq., H. J. Leaseley, Esq., and E. H. Hebden, Esq., eaoh £150. ; the Dowager Lady Feversham, Lord Feversham, Hon. O. Duncombe, M.P., Eev. M. H. Miller, Hon. M. Langley, E. D. Nes- field, Esq., and John Maude, Esq., each £100. ; Sir J. V. B. Johnstone, Bart., M.P., £75.; W. E. Woodall, Esq., £70.; the late Archbishop of York, Major Gen. Sir F. W. Trench, Miss Atty, Miss Cockcroft, Miss Taylor, and Thomas PurneU, Esq., each £50.; W. Eeed, Esq., £47. 5s.; John Wharton, Esq., and the Eev. Dr. Whiteside, Vicar, £45. each; and Dr. Travis, £40. It has been intimated that the original western elevation consisted of two towers. In the late restoration the lower portion of these towers have been in great part rebuilt, and are now made sound up to the height of the first water-table above the base. This end or elevation now consists of a centre, rising to a gable, and two remains of towers, and beyond the north aisle, an a,isle of ample dimensions, with a gable. In the centre is a doorway of Per pendicular insertion, projecting slightiy from the face of the wall, and has an acutely pointed gable over it, within which is a niche. Over this is a -window of three unequal lancets, separated by shafts, and surmounted by a HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. ^ 741 continuous dripstone ; in the gable is a handsome wheel window of eight compartments ; and on the apex of the gable is a wheel cross.* This com partment is flanked by buttresses of two stages, with canopied heads. These have been built as additions to the original Anglo-Norman ones. The res toration of the whole of this portion of the building is of later character than the original west front. The west end of the extreme north aisle exhibits a Decorated window of three Ughts, and on the apex is a plain cross. The south side of the Church presents a singular appearance ; the clerestory of the nave of six compartments, and a porch and four Chapels occupying the whole length of the aisle, which they conceal ; each presenting a gable to the south. East of these are the south transept and tower, terminating the east end of the nave. The porch consists of two stories, the lower one having a plain semicircular vault, and stone seats or benches on either side. Above the entrance archway is a Latin inscription in cut stone, setting forth that the Church was restored in the year 1850; and a small square headed window Ughting the parvise. The latter has been restored to its original use, and is entered by a staircase within the porch.-f- The Chapels, or Chan tries, which are separated by buttresses, are, with the exception of the western one, nearly of the same size. The latter has a window of four lights, and each of the others a window of three lights — aU of Decorated character, with a varied tracery in the heads. The Chapels are roofed with stone. The roof of the nave, as also that of the south transept, has been restored to its original pitch, and covered with green Westmorland slate. On the west side of the south transept is a square headed window of three lights, with Decorated tracery ; on the south side or end is a large window of five lights, with reticulated tracery under a pointed head ; and the gable is surmounted by a cross. The angles of the transept are strengthened by angular buttreses, which run up into crocketed finials of large dimensions. On the east side is a window of Perpendicular character of four lights, with tran soms. The window under the archway of the former choir aisle is of three lights. The fine east window of the quasi-chancel (in the east side of the • Crosses are symboUcal of the Christian Faith; the circles with which crosses are SBmetimes surrounded or ornamented, are emblematic of Eternity. i The Parvise, or small room above the porch of a Church, was used in former days as a library or Eecord Office, and sometimes as a School. The Court of the Hundred and the Law Courts were also held within the Parvise. It is probable that the Parvise of Scarborough Church was, at one period, the dweUing of a Priest, as indications of a fire-place have been discovered in it. There is also in it a smaU Piscina, which shows there had been an altar there. 743 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. tower) is Decorated, and of five lights. The east end of the original north aisle and of the great north aisle have each a window of three Ughts. The nerth side of the present north aisle is divided into five compartments by buttresses ; in the west compartment is a doorway with a niche over it, and in each of the others is a pointed window of three lights. This aisle is re built on the foundation of the former one, but is very properly of earlier character, being Decorated. The clerestory windows on the north do not appear, being enclosed within the original roof of the north aisle, thereby forming internally a kind of triforium. The south clerestory waU has been whoUy rebuilt, the north one only repaired. Notwithstanding the unwieldy and irregular form of the present edifice, the interior has a very solemn and impressive aspect. The arches which divide the nave from the north aisle are supported by five and a half massy circular piUars, and some of the pillars on the south side are similar in shape ; the others are clustered columns. The piUars, which separate St. Nicholas' aisle from the smaUer aisle on the north side, are hexagonal, with ancient and curiously carved capitals. The lower story of the tower is a quasi- chancel, or sacrarium — the tower arch forming a chancel-arch — and the east window is filled with stained glass, given by W. Harland, Esq., M.D. Within the Communion rails is an oak chair, made from a part of the ruins of the nave of York Minster, destroyed by fire on the SOth of May, 1840. The wood work of this chair, which is a model of the ancient Coronation Chair kept in York Cathedral (See page 454), is formed of the oak, and the shield in front, and the small plate let into the back, is from the bells des troyed at the same time. The pulpit is of carved stone, and the lectern is a carved eagle in wood. The south transept, caUed "Farrer's Aisle," was previously to the late restorations, separated from the Church and used as a Grammar School ; now it is open to the edifice, as it originally was by a lofty arch. The restoration of this transept, which was anciently a Chantry Chapel, laid open two low arches immediately below the fine south window, and beneath the arches partly in the wall, and partly in the floor, were found two stone coffins, containing the bones of two individuals, much decomposed, but sufficiently preserved to indicate the ages of the deceased. They ap peared to be the remains of strong buUt men, of large bone and muscle, and from the position of the skeletons, and the absence of a ring, had not been priests, but laymen. The bones were carefully coUected and re-interred, and the empty coffins were allowed to remain in the position in which they were found. The coffins, from the supposed date of that portion of the Church, and their forms, especially the easternmost one, are supposed to be HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 743 of no later a date than the middle of the fourteenth century. These coffins most probably enclosed the bodies of the founders of this Chantry, and though the coffins were found inserted in the floor, it is not unlikely, that at first they were elevated above the pavement, and ornamented with brass plates ¦ and unquestionably there had been an altar where prayers were offered up for the deceased, as a very curious and perfect Piscina* is to be seen just above the foot of the easternmost sepulchre— so that the altar must have been agamst the east waU. The piscina is in the Decorated style, and had been a ' work of much beauty and value. The basin is partly mutilated, but above it IS a cusped cinque-foUed arch, surmounted by a square embattled parapet, and above this a plain pointed arch. The Organ is now placed in the south transept, and the space between that instrument and the south waU, is used as the Vestry. The open timber roof of the nave consists of seven bays, separated by arched braces, which rest on vaulting shafts. Between each of these is an intermediate coU^r brace, resting on a corbel. The roof of the chancel is formed with carved ribs of timber, meeting in the centre in a point, boarded on the back, and resting at the bottom on a moulded waU plate. The pewing and other fittings are of Perpendicular character. The two easternmost arches of the nave have screens placed between the pUlars, and in front of them are staUs for the clergy; and in a new arch in the south waU of the tower is also a screen, dividing the chancel from the transept. These screens are formed of open tracery and piUars in wood work. The floor at the east end is laid with Minton 's encaustic tiles, but that of the other parts of the edifice, generally with the old memorial slabs, placed as nearly as possible in their former position. The font, which is plain, is placed in the south west tower. The window above the western entrance to the Church is fiUed with stained • The Piscina was a niche on the south or epistie side of the altar in CathoUo Churches, containing a small basin, and usuaUy a water drain, through which the Priest emptied the water in which he had washed his fingers; also that in which the ohaUoe, ciborium, &c., had been rinsed. These niches have not unfrequentiy a shelf, &c., across them, which was sometimes used as a credence or table, on which the bread, wine, and water used in the celebration of the Mass were placed in readiness. Lava tory is a tei-m sometimes used for the Piscina, and in ancient Missals, Sacrarium and Cavacrum are synonimous with the same, Piscinae are occasionally found of Norman character, though the instances are rare. In an ancient MS. of Injunctions for the Diocese of Lincoln, preserved in the Bodleian Library, a prorision is made for such Churches as are without a Piscina. A hole in the pavement by the altar was to be the BUbstitute. 744 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. glass of exquisite colour, by Gerente of Paris. It was erected to perpetuate the memory of Eichard Wilson, Esq., who founded and endowed at Scar borough, during his Ufetime, the charity known as " WUson 's Mariners' Asylum," and died in 1837, aged 73 years, and was buried at Seamer. The subjects introduced in the several medallions comprise, the Annun ciation, the Nativity, the Angel appearing to the Shepherds, the Presentation in the Temple, Christ Disputing with the Doctors, the Last Supper, the Scourging at the PiUar, the Crucifixion, the Entombment, the Eesurrection, Christ appearing to Mary, Our Saviour supping with the two Disciples at Emmaus, Thomas' InoreduUty, Christ's charge to Peter, and the Ascension. The circular window above is also filled with stained glass. The west window (one light) of the south-west tower is glazed with stained glass, inscribed to the memory of John HUl Coulson, Esq., of Scarborough, who died in 1858. The Chantries, or side Chapels before-mentioned, which flank the south aisle, are, with the exception of the absence of stone mulUous to the windows, much in the same state as originally left by the mason, but the beauty of their elevation is completely destroyed by the immense quantity of soil which has been aUowed to accumulate against their exterior. The basement mouldings are entirely buried. The south wall of the Church has been entirely removed to allow of the erection of those Chapels. Taking them in the order in which they stand, and commencing with the east, we flnd the first is roofed with stone ribbing, in excellent preservation. In the south wall are the mutilated remains of an enriched piscina, and to the west of it, inserted in the wall, is the founder'? tomb, with a recessed arch over it. In the west wall is the Aumbrie, a square recess, niche, or cupboard, to contain the utensUs belonging to the altar. In the second Chapel is a piscina, an aumbrie, and in the same wall the founder's tomb, the arch mouldings of which are much simpler than the mouldings of the tomb in the first Chapel. The centre light, or division of the window is glazed with stained glass, by Wailes, of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, and the gift of Miss Whiteside. The subject is a full length figure of St. John the Baptist, with a medallion underneath, Tep- resenting the Baptism of Our Saviour in the river Jordan. The Vicar's pew is situated in this Chapel. In the third Chantry, commonly called St. James's Chapel, is a piscina with a water drain, also an aumbrie, and in the east wall is a bracket for a Ught, resting upon a well sculptured head, of early date. The centre compartment of the window of this Chapel, is fiUed with stained glass, executed by Wailes, and " is dedicated to the memory of Mary Cooper and Janet Temple, late of Scarborough, widows, by John Wharton, HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 745 the Surviving Executor, a.d., 1853." This glass represents a fuU length figure of St. James the Greater ; and a medaUion below this represents the martyrdom of that Apostle. In the largest Chantry, caUed St. Nicholas' Chapel, next the south porch, the upper divisions of the window are oc cupied by four antique oval shaped emblems of the Four Evangelists, viz., the Eagle (St. John), the Ox (St. Luke), the Lion (St. Mark), and the Angel or Man (St. Matthew). These are the gift of E. M. Beveriey, Esq., of Scarborough. The piscina and aumbrie are likewise here. There are no indications of the original altars in these Chapels, though their position would undoubtedly be against the east waU. The recesses, or tombs, in the south waUs, contain stone coffins, empty. There is a very large number of monumental tablets and grave stones in this Church. The tower contains a fine clock, and an excellent peal of eight bells. The bells were erected in the latter part of the year 1853, by Messrs. Taylor and Son, founders, Loughborough, and the opening peal was rung on the 38nd of December, 1868. The cost of the peal was defrayed by subscription of the inhabitants and visitors. The treble and tenor of this peal received the special approbation of the jurors, in addition to the prize medal, at the Great Exhibition in London, in 1851. The weight of the tenor bell is 81 cwt. 2 qrs., and its musical pitch is said to be E flat. Before -the erection of this peal, there were three bells in the tower of St. Mary's, one of which is now in the tower of Christ Church, to be hereafter described. The clock was constructed by Dent of London, from the designs of E. B. Denison, Esq., Q.C., and possesses all the most recent and scientific improvements. It strikes the 1st, 3nd, and 3rd quarters, on the 3nd, 3rd, 4th, and 7th beUs of the peal, and the hour without any quarters on the 8th or tenor beU, The cost of the clock, £850,, was raised by subscription, and the clock was first set in motion in the tower on the 86th of February, 1856, In concluding his description of this venerable edifice, the Eev, Joshua Fawcett observes, " When comparing the St, Mary's of a,d, 1848, with the St, Mary's of a,d, 1849, or a,d, 1850, those who remember her in her former desolation, and now see her in her restored and beautiful condition, cannot but rejoice to witness the growing revival of that haUowed feeUng, that all taste, and art, and wealth, are then.best applied when they minister to the glory and honour of His house, who is weU pleased with the humblest effort, and weU approves the most costly endeavour to shew forth his praise," The burial ground is spacious. The ground to the west of the Church is said to be the site of the Cistercian Abbey; and report says that the steps leading to it may yet be traced to the south waU, near Spright Lane, The 5 0 746 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. portion of ground to the west was obtained by the Corporation, in exchange with Sir C. Hotham, Bart., in 1779 ; that to the east, called Paradise Close, by purchase, in 1780 ; and that on the south, by purchase, in 1809. The approach to this Church by the Castle Eoad is much disfigured by a long unsightly covered in old ropery, which appears to encroach upon the burial ground. The removal of this " eyesore " would not only add consi derably to the general aspect of the west end of the Church, but would im prove the appearance of the whole neighbourhood. Cheist Chuech occupies a plot of ground between Huntriss' Bow and Vernon Place. The foundation stone of the edifice, which is a Chapel of Ease to St. Mary's, was laid on the 86th of October, 1886, by the Eev. J. Kirk, then Vicar of Scarborough ; and the Church, on being completed, was .con secrated for Divine Service on the 83rd of August, 1838, by the late Arch bishop of York. The edifice is in the Early EngUsh style of Gothic archi tecture ; and the cost of its erection, including site, &c., amounted to about £8,000,, of which sum £6,000, was granted by the ParUamentary Com missioners for building Churches, and £3,000, was raised by subscription. The outside is faced with beautiful free stone, the gift of Sir John V, B, Johnstone, Bart,, from the Hackness quarry. At the west end is a neat square tower of three stages, surmounted with plain pinnacles and vanes at the angles, and a clock dial on each side of it. The height of the tower from the ground to the top of the pinnacles is 116 feet. The sides of the Church are each made into six divisions by buttresses, in each of which is a tall narrow window of one light. In the east end are five lights of unequal height, and in the centre, at the same end, are two angular buttresses finishing in large pinnacles. The interior presents a nave and side aisles, the latter divided from the former by plain octagonal pillars running into pointed arches, unbroken by capitals, and above the arches a clerestory. The aisles, and the west end of the edifice are gaUeried ; and there is a second gallery at the same end, containing an organ. The roof of the nave is made to imitate stone groining, and the front of the galleries to resemble stone work. The pulpit, reading desk, &c., form a clump in front of the Communion table ; the vestries are formed out of the easternmost divisions of the aisles — the space between them (the east end of the aisle) forming a small chancel, sacrarium, or sanctuary. The Eoyal Arms, and three other shields bearing the Arms of Scarborough, the Archbishop of York, and of Sir J, V. B, Johnstone, Bart,, in stained glass, are in the east window. The pews are single seated with doors, Tho font is square, supported by a strong pillar in the centre, and slender pillars at the angles. The tower contains three bells, one of HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 747 which was removed from the tower of St. Mary's. The only endowment to this Church is the rental of the pews or seats.. The Church will accommodate about 1,300 persons, including 400 free sittings. St. Thomas's Disteict Chuech, East Sand Gate. — This Church was erected by voluntary subscription, which amounted to £1,100., with tha assistance of a grant of £300. from the Incorporated Society for the Building of Churches. It was founded on the 31st of December, 1889, consecrated by the late Archbishop of York on the 17th of October, 1840, and opened for public worship on the 80th of December foUowing. By order in, Council dated 88rd of May, 1844, a separate district was aUotted to it, so that it is now for all ecclesiastical purposes an independent parochial district. The Churoh is situated near the harbour, in a densely crowded neighbourhood, and has recently been enlarged and undergone extensive alterations. Only the east end and south side of the edifice are exposed to view ; the material of the structure is brick, with cut stone windows and dressings ; and the style of architecture is Perpendicular. The end rakes up to an . embattled and pinnacled apex, and in the centre is a window of five lights, with a transom, and above that a small wheel window. The chief entrance is by a door or small porch towards the north east corner of the building. There are four good windows of two lights each, with transoms, on the south side. The interior is rather odd in shape, and may be said to consist of a body and a north aisle, the latter being separated from the former by two wide arches. It is plainly but neatly fitted up, and over the aisle is a gaUery. Above the Communion table is a representation of the Lord's Supper, cast in metal ; the east window has some stained glass in it ; the pulpit, reading desk, &c., are in the south east corner ; and in the waU, on the north side of the Com munion table, is a piscina like font used for baptismal purposes. Beneath the south side of the Church (which is on much lower ground than the north side) is an Infant School which is attended by about fifty children. The present Incumbent of St. Thomas's Church is the Eev. WilUam Key. CoNGEEGATioNAL Chapel. — This boautiful stone edifice is situated With- tniMhe-Bar, and is generaUy known as the " Bar Church." The foundation stone was laid by Lady Lowthorpe, in February, 1850, and the Chapel was opened for Divine Worship on the 30th of August in the same year, by the Rev. T. Baffles, LL.D. The structure is in the Early Decorated style, with geometrical tracery, and quoins and dressings. The plan consists of nave and transepts, with recessed organ gallery behind the pulpit, and a buttressed tower at the south-west angle, the stair turret of which is crowned with a smaU leaden spire and gilt vane. The end of the structure fronting the 748 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. street rises to an apex, and contains the principal entrance (a richly moulded and crocketed doorway) and a handsome five-light window, the whole sur mounted by a beautifully carved and crocketed niche and canopy. The sides of the edifice present three gables, in each of which is a window ; and in the ends of the transepts ai;e large windows. The interior is very neatly finished. The pulpit is exceedingly neat, and behind it, in. front of the organ gal lery, is a handsomely carved wooden screen, the shafts of the columns of which (as also of the pulpit and gallery front) are of rare South American wood, the gift of Messrs. Hick. There are gaUeries at the south end of the nave or body, and at the .transepts, connected by shallow gaUeries running down the sides, supported. by chamfered wooden uprights, and having a carved open front. The principals of the roof rest on carved corbels, representing angels with shields,. springing from internal piers, forming on each side three 'recesses, each having a three Ught window, and high pitched gable as just noticed. The-organ is of superior tone, and was erected in 1851 ; its pipes are arranged on each side of the gallerj', and between them is a beautifully stained .glass window of four lights, the effect of which is very impressive. The pews, or seats, are single, with low backs, and the design is chaste ; and the open screen work of the galleries being lined with. crimson cloth, the whole has a clean, comfortable, and elegant appearance. Tho gas chandeliers, or gasseliers, are of ecclesiastical design. The vestry is beneath the organ loft. There is accommodation for upwards of 1,000 persons, and 100 children. The entire cost of the. Chapel, together with a neat and commodious School, and the pew-opener's cottage adjoining, amounted to £5,500,, including £1,000. paid for the eligible freehold on which they stand. This sum was raised by subscriptions and coUections. The Eev. Eobert Balgamie is tho present minister. Independent Chapel, with entrances in St. Sepulchre Street and Merchants' Bow. This Chapel is supposed to occupy the site of the. ancient possessions, if not of the residence, of the Knights Hospitallers, It is a plain building, first erected in 1703 ; rebuilt and enlarged in 1774; and enlarged a second time in 1801, It will now seat about 500 persons. In 1855, a smaU organ was erected in it. Among the monuments in this Chapel is one to a former minister of the congregation, with a striking profile, executed by Behnes. The present pastor is the Eev. B. Backhouse. Ebenbzeb (Baptist) Chapel, Long West Gate. — This is a large commo dious brick building, calculated to seat from 900 to 1,000 persons, and was .erected in 1836, at a cost of more than £8,600. The first Chapel belonging io the Baptists was buUt near the present site in the year 1776. There are HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. 740 several neat monumental tablets in this Chapel, and there is a burial ground in front of it. The present minister, the Eev. Benjamin Evans, edited the third edition of HinderweU's History of Scarborough, published in 1833. The Wesleyan Methodist Chapel, Queen Street, is a large brick edifice, the first stone of which was laid by Henry Fowler, Esq., on the 13th of December, 1839, and on the 11th of September, 1850, Divine Service was first performed in it. The design was furnished by Mr. J. Simpson, of Leeds, and the building wUl accommodate upwards of 1,600 persons. The cost of the edifice, including the site and yard, was upwards of £7,000. The interior is weU fitted up with extensive gaUeries, and in 1846, a good organ was erected in it, at a cost of upwards of £400. Underneath the Chapel are vestries, school, and class rooms, and apartments for the Chapel keeper. The Wesleyan Association " Tabeenacle," Batty Place, was opened for pubUc worship in 1858. It is a plain brick building capable of seating 600 persons. Peimitive Methodist Chapel, St. Sepulchre Street. — Erected in 1831, but improved and enlarged to its present commodious size in 1839. It is a brick building which wiU seat about 600 persons. Feiends' Meeting House, St. Sepulchre Street. — The peculiar principles of the "Friends," commonly called Quakers, were probably first propagated here by the founder of the sect, George Fox, who was imprisoned in Scar borough Castie, in 1666 (See page 697). The present edifice, a plain but neat building, was erected in 1801, and adjoining it is the burying ground of the body. Their ancient burial ground is in a field near Falsgrave. Bethel Chapel. — The Old Town Hall, in Quay Street, is now used as a place of rcUgious worship, called " The Bethel," The services, on Tuesday and Saturday evenings are conducted by the ministers and friends of the various dissenting bodies in the town, for the especial benefit of sailors and fishermen. Catholics, — The Catholics of Scarborough formerly assembled for the celebration of the rites of their Church in a house in West Gate; but having purchased premises of the late Eev, CorneUiis Burgh, in Auborough Street, the present Chapel was erected in 1809, under the direction, and chiefly by the munificence of the late Eev, WilUam Coghlan, In 1839, it underwent a series of repairs and decorations, and it is now a neat place of worship, capable of accommodating about. 400 persons. The altar is a sarcophagus of classical design, supported by pilasters, and adorned in front with a me- dalUon of the Agnes Dei, The altar-piece, a Crucifixion by a Eoman artist, pf acknowledged excellence, was presented (from his own coUection) by Peter 750 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. Middleton, Esq., of Middleton Lodge. On one side of the altar is a painting of the Annunciation, and on the opposite side is one of St. Augustine, the Apostle of England — both by Mr. Bulmer. Over the sanctuary, in a radiance, is the Dove with expanded wings ; and in the centre of the ceiUng is a cir cular painting, thirteen feet in diameter, the subject being the Assumption. There is a good organ in the gallery at the west end of the Chapel. Ad joining the Chapel is the Presbytery — a good residence with a large garden attached — and at the back of the Chapel, is a school for boys and girls, and a residence for the teacher. The present pastor of this mission is the Very Eev. John Walker. Catholic Chuech of St. Petee, Castle Boad. — The corner stone of this edifice was laid on Friday, the 8rd of October, 1856, by the Eight Eev. Dr. Errington, Archbishop of Trebizond, and coadjutor to His Eminence Car dinal Wiseman ; the buUding is now fast approaching completion, and is expected to be opened for Divine Service in the early part of the summer of 1858. It stands, from necessity arising from the peculiarities of the site, north and south — the altar to the south — and in point of detail belongs to the transition from the Early English to the Florid or Decorated style of Gothic architecture. The plan of the Church embraces a nave with side aisles, a chancel, two side Chapels, a baptistry and sacristry, and a tower and belfry at the north west corner. As the chancel (half octagonal) is not depressed externally nor contracted within, the roof of the sanctuary soars to the apex of the unbroken roof of the nave, giving it an outline and expression somewhat continental rather than English. The elevation of the apse shows no terminal window, being Ughted by two lateral ones on each side; but whether this sacrifice of a window over the altar has been made with the special view of escaping the dazzUng splendour of a meridian sun, or from an objection on principle to the questionable effect of a window immediately behind the altar in Churches of smaU dimensions, we are unable to say. Much may be said on both sides as to the advantages and disadvantages of an east window, independently of circumstances ; for whUe the east window is unquestionably a beautiful termination to the Gothic Church, the window- less apse, provided the chancel be otherwise weU-lighted, is calculated to secure a better effect for the altar and the sanctuary ; and to compensate for the loss of stained glass, the blank space within over the altar, usually occupied by windows, present an ample and enviable field to a rival eccle siastical artist, the fresco painter. The tracery of all the windows of the lower story differ, and thus a beautiful variety is furnished ; but the tracery of the windows of the clerestory is aU alike. The windows of the aisles are HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 761 of three lights each, and those of the clerestory of two lights each. One of the side Chapels is to be dedicated in honour of the Mother of Our Divine Eedeemer, and wiU be caUed the Lady Chapel; and the other is to be caUed the Chapel of St. Michael; the former is on the east side, and the latter on the west side of the chancel, at the ends of the side aisles, but sepa rated from them by handsome arches. The baptistry, in which wUl stand the font, as weU as the sacristry, projects from the south end of the west aisle. The piUars which support the arches separating the aisle from the nave are circular, but very Ught and elegant, and the whole edifice from its commanding position, its respectable dimensions, and elegant detail, will, undoubtedly form one of the most conspicuous ornaments of the town. The waU stone used in the building is from the quarries of Leversham, and is quarry faced with angles margin drafted; and the ashler stone used in the dressings has been brought from Whitby. The architects of the building are Messrs. Weightman, Hatfield, and Goldie, of Sheffield, but the design is from the pencil of the latter gentleman. Schools. — Grammar School. — This ancient classical seminary is supposed to have been established in the reign of Edward VL, after the dissolution of the Chantries. So early as the year 1597, it is mentioned in the Corporation Eecords, as " the high school," having twenty scholars at ten shUUngs per ann. each; and that the articles of the school were under the town's seal. Previously to the siege of the Castle in 1648, this school was conducted in a building appropriated to its" use, standing on the site of the Carmelite Friary, in CharneU Garth, but Colonel Bethel, Governor of the Castle, caused the house to be taken, and the school was removed iu February, 1649, to the south transept of St. Mary's Church, or Farrer's Aisle, where it continued nntU the restoration of that Church commenced in 1848. It is now engrafted upon a private school in York Place, conducted by Mr. J. Sykes. Before the passing of the Eeform Bill, the master was appointed on a vacancy, by thc Bailiffs for the time being. The school has only two endow ments; the one a close of Ia. 3e. of land, near Falsgrave, called Warlington Grove, devised by Gregory Fysh, in 1640, in consideration of four scholars of the kindred of the testator being kept on the foundation ; and if none such could be found, then four others were to be nominated by the ministers or overseers of the school. The other benefaction consists of £100., given in the year 1694, by Frances Thompson, Esq., M.P. for Scarborough, for which the Corporation pay the master five per cent per ann. Schools of the Amicable Society, North Terrace. — The Amicable Society, originated by Eobert North, Esq., was founded March 36th, 1789, for the 758 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. purpose of clothing and educating the children of the poor of Scarborough. The schools of this Society (a long brick building) were built in 1817, at a cost of £1,300., on their present site, which was givenby the Corporation. They contain besides the school rooms for boys and girls, apartments for the teachers. The schools are now Umited to fifty boys and thirty girls, who are clothed free, and educated in the principles of the Church of England ; and when of proper age the boys are apprenticed to trades, and the girls are put out as domestic servants ; the fund for the support of the institution arising from the subscriptions of the members, collections made in Churches, and other voluntary donations and legacies. The Society is under the govern ment of a President, four Trustees, and four Wardens, annually elected. Mr. Hinderwell says in reference to those educated in these schools, that "instead of falling victims to profligacy, many of them have filled useful occupations in Ufe with credit and advantage. Several bred to the sea," he continues, " by means of the rudiments of their early education at this semi nary, have attained a competent knowledge of navigation, which has qualified them for mates and commanders of vessels. These have eventually become patrons of the institution, and benefactors to succeeding generations ; others have fought the naval battles of their country, and by their bravery contri buted to its security and independence.'' The School qf Industry, held in a small buUding in Cook's Row, was founded in 1808, for the education of the female children of the poor, who are taught knitting, sewing, &c., in addition to reading, writing, &c. The institution is under the patronage of the ladies of Scarborough, but the chief supporters of it' are members of the Society of Friends. The children pay twopence per week, each. About seventy attend. The Lancasterian Schools on the Castle Road, built in 1810, are supported by voluntary contributions, and the pence of the children. The schools were originally founded by Mr. Lancaster, the founder of the system of teaching, called after his name ; but the schools are now conducted on the British and Foreign system. The average attendance is 350 boys and girls. The Infant School, held in an antique room, a remnant of an ancient mansion in St. Sepulchre Street, was founded about 1887, under a Com mittee of management of ladies and gentlemen, and is now chiefly supported by the Society of Friends. It is conducted on the British and Foreign system. About 100 children attend. The National Schools for boys and girls, are now held in brick buildings on the Castle Eoad, which are soon to give place to a handsome pile of buildings in the Tudor style, for the erection of which subscriptions are now HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH, 763 being raised,* The proposed buildings comprise a boys' school 56^ feet by 37i feet, with class-room 13 feet by 18 feet; giris' school 64^ feet by 18 feet, with class-room 15^ feet by 14^ feet; and infant school 37^- feet by 18 feet, with gaUery 18 feet by 18 feet; together with three private rooms for the school mistress, each about 13 feet by 11 feet, and that these are to form one perfect united system, and to be completed at the total estimated cost of £3,300, About 850 attend these schools on an average. Wesleyan Schools, Friars' Entry.— The foundation stone of this handsome building was laid on the 5th of February, 1856, by Henry Fowler, Esq., and the schools were opened in the month of September foUowing. The building is of hammer dressed stone, with cut stone facings, and embraces three flne school rooms for boys, girls, and infants, besides a residence for the teachers ; and the cost of the erection amounted to nearly £8,000., which was raised by subscription. The front of the building presents three gables, and in the centre is a taU wooden belfry. The angles are aU supported by single but tresses. About 380 children attend these schools. The Catholic Schools have been already noticed. Sunday Schools are held m connection with all the places of worship in the town. Hospitals and Almshouses. — St. Thomas' Hospital is already noticed at page 710. Merchant Seamen's Hospital, Castle Eoad. — This charity is a branch of the general institution for the relief and support of maimed and disabled seamen in the merchant service, incorporated under the 80th of George II. (1747). It is under the management of flfteen trustees, annually chosen from the inhabitants of Scarborough, according to the provisions of the Act, by the owners and masters of ships belonging to the port of Scarborough, and is subordinate to the Trinity House, Deptford Strond. The funds arise from the duty of one shiUing per month, collected under the Act, out of the wages of every seaman belonging to the port of Scarborough, The trustees possess also the sum of £400, stock, the dividends of which are carried to the general account. The Hospital, erected in 1753, is a spacious building consisting of a centre and two wings, with a court in front. It contains thirty-six separate apartments for as many poor seamen, or widows of seamen, belonging to * Among the subscribers to the erection of the new National Schools are Lord Hotham, M.P,, patron, for ^£100, ; Sir J, T, B. Johnstone, Bart., M.P., J. WoodaU, Esq., and the Trustees of the late Eichard WUson, Esq., for ^£50, each ; W, Holden, Esq., the Archbishop of York, Archdeacon Long, for £-Z6. each ; the Eev. Dr, Whiteside, aud E, H. Hebden, Esq,, for jESO. each ; and J. H. Eeed, Esq., and Mrs, E, Strickland, for f 10, each, 5 D 754 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. Scarborough. The revenue of the institution has declined very considerably, so that the poor hospitallers now receive only a few shillings each every year. Trinity House, St. Sepulchre Street. — The exact date of this institution is not known, though it is said to have been founded in 1603. Mr. Thoresby states in his Diary, in 1683, that " the mariners at Scarborough have been so noble, as by contribution, to build for poor seamen's widows, an Hospital, for the very ground whereof they gave £100." To the maintenance of this charity, he further states, that " every vessel contributes fourpence pervoyage ; evfery master, fourpence ; and every man that receives above fifteen shilUngs wages, twopence a piece." The Trinity House is the ancient buUding here referred to, but this mode of contribution has long ago been disused. The building, being much decayed, was re-erected by subscription in 1833-3, and it has now a neat cut stone front of two stories in height, with an inscription below the cornice. It contains apartments for thirty-one decayed mariners, or their widows, but the inmates receive no allowance whatever, there being no fund for that purpose. Taylor's Free Dwellings, Cook's Eow. — Mr. Joseph Taylor, in 1810, be queathed a legacy of £1,000,, out of which, three houses were erected in 1817, and are kept in repair. They are comfortable dweUings, containing apartments for fourteen aged respectable poor persons of Scarborough. Mrs. Hannah Mennell, a relative of Mr. Taylor, has since left an endowment of £800. to this charity. The poor inmates receive two pounds a year, and some coals. Wilson's Mariners' Asylum, situated at the top of Auborough Street. — The late Eichard Wilson, Esq., erected during his life, a very neat row of fourteen Almshouses, containing two rooms each, for the use of decayed mariners, or their widows, in 1836, at a cost of from £3,000. to £4,000. In his wiU he left under the care of fifteen trustees, a sufficient sum to keep the building in repair, and to furnish the inmates with a smaU annuity. The building is of red brick with cut stone facings, and the style of architecture is Tudor. Each inmate of this Asylum receives four pounds a year besides the cottage, and each sitting-room is furnished with a Uthographed Ukeness of the founder, Mr. WUson. Spinsters' Hospital, St. Thomas Street. — This buUding consists of two-good brick houses, containing together apartments for twelve persons, and was erected in 1841, by Mrs. EUzabeth Clark, widow of Francis Clark, Esq., for the use of aged spinsters. The inmates receive a few shillings yearly. Free Dwellings. — The above-mentioned Mrs. Clark also founded free dwel- HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 755 lings in MiU Street, in 1853, for twelve deserving persons above fifty years of age, who also receive a few shillings every year. Sedman's HospUal. — In 1714, Thomas Sedman devised a house and garth in Cross Street, for an Hospital for six poor persons. The Hospital was rebuilt and enlarged in 1841, by the before-mentioned Mrs. EUzabeth Clark, and it now consists of two houses, containing apartments for eighteen poor men or women above the age of fifty. The interest of £400. was left by Mrs. Clark to keep these houses in repair, and when no repairs are needed the interest is divided amongst the inmates. Farrer's Hospital, Low Conduit Street. — This Hospital, which consists of two very old cottages, for two aged poor persons, was founded in 1638,. by Mr. John Farrer, the husband of the lady who first discovered the efficacy of the Scarborough Spa. Burgh's Hospital, Dumple, consists of one old cottage containing four rooms, occupied by four poor persons. There are Free Dwellings in Toller Gate, viz., two cottages containing four smaU apartments. These were left to the poor by a person of the name of North. Trott's Hospital, St. Thomas' Street, consists of two small old dilapidated cottages, bearing the following quaint inscription cut in stone : — " These Hovses given by EUsha Trotter. 3 Widows to leve in who died the 36th day of September, 1637." This Hospital is endowed with an acre of land in Burton Dale. Eobinson's Almshouse, Long Westgate, was founded in 1691. The house, which was rebuilt by the Corporation, contains apartments for four poor persons. Stulhs' Almshouse, near the Castie Dykes, was given by Cornelius Stubbs, for the residence of two poor women, and ten shiUings a year for repairs, out of a house in Quay Street. Chaeitablb Institutions. — The Sea Bathing Infirmary was founded in 1819, and is situated at the junction of the outermost pier, or sea-wall, with the Castie HiU, and commands a very extensive and beautiful sea prospect. The object of the institution is the admission of necessitous persons requiring, in addition to the means at the disposal of our provincial Hospitals, the ad vantages of a marine residence, and the use of sea-bathing, for their restora tion." Originally the infirmary could only admit six in-patients; latterly, however, twenty-four additional beds have been added; and its benefits are not Umited as heretofore, to the necessitous poor, but by partially adopting the self supporting-system, are now extended to any person of Umited means. It is also supported by subscription. 766 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH, The Dispensary is another local medical charity, and was only established in 1861, since which time about six hundred patients annually have been relieved. It is supported by voluntary contributions, and is held in a private house, in Queen Street, but subscriptions are being raised for the purpose of erecting a suitable building for it. The Humane Society was established in 1838 ; the Female Sick and Lying- in-Charity, in 1813 ; and here are also a Friendly Society for the relief of the Scarborough Fishermen, and several Sick Clubs and other Charitable Provident Societies, The Scarborough Poor Law Union comprises thirty-three parishes, embra cing an area of 177 square miles. The Old Workhouse, in Waterhouse Lane, has been converted into an Union Workhouse, to accommodate 170 paupers. The average number of inmates in the house for the past year was about eighty, and the average weekly cost of each was 8s, 6d, Sir J, V, B, Johnstone, Bart,, is Chairman of the Board of Guardians, and Mr, Edward S, Donner is their Clerk, There are five medical officers to the Union. PUBLIC BUILDINGS.— The Spa Saloon and Cliff Bridge, as weU as the Churches and Chapels, are described at preceding pages. Town Hall. — This is a plain but suitable and commodious brick building, situated in St. Nicholas Street, formerly called Long Eoom Street. The large Court room, which is approached by a broad and stately staircase, has lately been renovated and improved by the addition of an orchestra, and three beautiful gas chandeUers, &c. A portrait of George IIL, painted by Stewart- son, the .gift of the late James TindaU, Esq., is suspended over the bench at one end. The Quarterly and Petty Sessions, and the County Courts, are held in this room, and all the business of the Corporation is transacted in it; it is also used, by permission of the Mayor, for concerts and public meetings of the various societies in the town. In the ante-room is a portrait of Mr. Benjamin Johnson, a celebrated musician of Scarborough, who attained the age of 103 years. This picture was painted by the late J. Jackson, E.A., and presented by the late Earl of Mulgrave. The Police Office is in the Town HaU. The Borough Police force consists -of a Superintendent and five police constables; and there are twenty special constables to assist in cases of need or emergency. There are two ceUs at the rear of the building. The Old Town Hall, in Quay Street, a small inconvenient building used from time immemorial, was disposed of in the year 1800 ; when a long lease for the present Town HaU was obtained. The old haU is now used as a place of worship, caUed Bethel. The ceUar beneath it, now a grocery ware- HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 757 house, was formerly a prison. An ancient effigy, long preserved in this cellar, but the history of which is unknown, has been removed to the Museum. Newboeouqh Bae.— There were formerly two gates or entrances into Scarborough. Aldeborough, or Awborough Gate, on the north, aud New borough Gate, on the west. These, with the wall and moat which partly surrounded the town, formed its defence in the troublous times of past centuries. The " Aldeburgh" Gate has long since disappeared, and we are not aware that there are any traces extant, or even a pictorial representation of it. The " Newburgh " Gate, or Bar, a plain gloomy looking building with an archway beneath it, was removed in 1848, and the present neat edifice erected on its site. The last mentioned building had been used as a Debtors' Prison, which occasioned the author of a " Scarborough Guide," published in 1796, to observe: — "Anciently, the road to the Temple of Honour was through that of Virtue ; while at Scarborough the approach to health, plea sure, and delight, is under the arch of misery ; and, we trust, repentance ! For the gateway you pass, leading into the town, is the Corporation gaol or prison ! kept by a fair and portly wardeness, who wields the tremendous key, but whose great humanity softens, as did Akerman, the afflictions of the unfortunate aud wretched committed to her charge." The present Bar forms the entrance into the town, and is a neat cut stone structure, of some architectural pretensions. It forms a handsome tower ; the archway is groined, and has a large boss in the centre, and above it the building rises two stories, the angles being formed by octagonal turrets, and the whole embattled. In each face of the edifice is a handsome window of six Ughts, with transoms, and the archway and windows are ornamented on both sides with shields of the Town Arms, &c. There is a narrow footway on eaoh side, beneath the angular turrets. The apartments in the upper part of the Bar are now used as warerooms, in connection with an adjoining drapery establishment. • The Museum. — This chaste and elegant cut stone structure, which is situated on the northern side of the CUff Bridge, was originated by the Scar borough Philosophical Society, in consequence of the munificent offer of the late Thomas Duesbery, Esq., of Beverley, to give the splendid coUection of fossU remains, minerals, and other specimens of natural history and antiqui ties, formed by his uncle, Thomas HinderweU, Esq., the late venerable historian of Scarborough, on condition that a suitable building should be raised, in which to place it. A subscription was immediately set on foot by the members of the Philosophical Society, and the foundation stone of the Museum was laid by Sir J. V. B. Johnstone, Bart., the President, on the 9th 758 HlSTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. of AprU, 1838. The cost of the buUding, including the purchase of ground, fitting up, &c., was £1,836. (the cost of the buUding alone being about £1,300.), and the Museum was first opened for the purpose of lectures, &c., on the 13th of February, 1830. The edifice is a rotunda, with a dome, of the Eoman Doric Order, 37^ feet in its external diameter, and 50 feet high. The circular plan of the building was suggested by W. Smith, Esq., LLD., the celebrated geologist, as being more capable of exhibiting, in one simple and inteUigible form, the stratification of the rocks of Great Britain, than could be obtained by any other method. It was originally proposed, when sufficient funds were ob tained, to add wings, radiating from the central building. The cornice, which surrounds the building, has scarcely its equal, and is said to have been taken .from the Theatre Marcellus, at Eome ; and the windows, designed more for the admission of air than light, are taken from the Temple of the god Eidicula, at Eome. The classical design of the building is from the pencil of E. H. Sharp, Esq., architect, of York. The basement contains the library, laboratory, and keeper's room, and the principal room, which is 35 feet high, is approached by a spiral staircase. This room is lighted from the dome. From its situation, overlooking the sea, this building, com bines with the Cliff Bridge, to form a highly agreeable object. The collection of fossUs, minerals, and antiquities, of which Mr. Duesbery's gift formed the basis, is now pretty extensive. In the lower story, amongst the misceUaneous coUec tion, is the piece of carved stone found on the site of the ancient Chapel of the Castie (See page 700) ; the old Ducking School, which was formerly fixed on the old pier at Scarborough, near a spot stiU known as Ducker's Hole ;« and the skeleton of an Ancient Briton, in a rude oak coffin, discovered in July, 1834, in a large tumulus at Gristhorpe.t Also many large and beautiful specimens ot animals of the Saurian species, and fossil fishes from the lias, near Whitby: — one of the Saurians, the gigantic Plesiosaurus, is supposed to have measured 23 feet in length. On ascending the staircase, the first objects whioh attracts the eye are the fossU remains of former ages, which are placed on sloping shelves around the Museum, corresponding in some degree -with the arrange ment of the strata, or their natural position in the earth. The visitor should commence the examination of them, on the left hand of the gallery staircase : — there, on the first shelf, are placed, as being from the most recent formations, the bones which have been coUected from the remarkable Cave of Kirkdale, in Yorkshire, — ^the next shelf contains the fossils from the Suffolk Crag and Paris clay, the most recent stratified formations, — the next, those from the London clay, — .then, those from the Chalk; and so on, in suc cession, beginning -with those fossUs, which have been collected from the strata most * For some particulars of this ancient instrument of punishment, see page 333 of this volume, + An account of the discovery of this skeleton, wiU be found in the history of Gristhorpe, in the second volume of this work. ~ " HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 759 recently formed in the crust of the globe, and proceeding to the lower, and lower beds, until we come to the primitive or granatic rocks, in which no remains of liring animals can be found. The conohologist wUl observe that the recent strata contain many sheUs simUar to those of the present day : — as we proceed to the lower strata, fewer, and still fewer, wUl be found, untU having passed the Chalk, scarcely any will be met with, exaotiy similar. On the shelf below, which runs round the buUding, is a collection of fossU shells, and shells of the present day, arranged together according to their different genera : the fossU being classed with the recent shells, wherever they are found of the same genus or famUy. On the floor are some gigantic Ammonites, and other remains. The minerals are placed on four tables in the centre of the floor, and are arranged according to their respective bases, or principal component parts. The birds, which are principally British, are arranged according to Cuvier. The insects are arranged in cases in a gaUery above, and with the exception of those in the first case, are aU British. The coUection of coins is yet smaU. In 1850, a large Aquarium was erected against the buUding, and communicating with it. It contains a quantity of mamniels, such as crabs, lobsters, shrimps, &c. Outside the buUding is a large stone efSgy of a cross-legged knight, in armour, in a recumbent position. It was removed hither from the cellar of the Old Town HaU, where it lay for a long time. Its history is entirely unknown, but the shield is said to hear the arms of the Mowbray family. »»* A Meterological Eegister of the variations of the Barometer, Thermometer, Eain Guage, &c., is kept in the Museum. Odd Fellows' Hall — Mechanics' Institution. — This building stands in Ver non Place, near Christ Church ; its foundation stone was laid by Thomas Pur- .neU, Esq., the then Mayor, on the 4th of February, 1840. The edifice, which is 78 feet long, 30^ feet wide, and about 60 feet high, is in the Grecian style of architecture. At the front are two fluted Doric columns, and above these are two fluted ones of the Ionic Order, supporting the middle cornice. Above this, and under the pediment, is the motto, " Amicitia, Amor, et Veritas," and a shield charged with part of the emblems used by the Order, carved in basso relievo. On the second floor is a large lecture or assembly room, 68 feet in length, by 37 feet in breadth. The Odd Fellows' Hall is at present rented by the Committee and members of the Mechanics' Institute, who use some of the smaUer rooms for class rooms, Ubrary, &c., and in the large room the lectures of the Society are delivered, and pubUc meetings and exhibitions are frequently held in it. Public Maekbt Hall.— The Scarborough PubUc Market Company ob tained .an Act of ParUament, in 1853, under which, they received powers to erect halls in St. Helen's Square, and its vicinity ; to improve the approaches 'f thereto ; and also to erect a range of public abbatoirs. The new market-haU lately erected by this Company, on the east side of St. Helen's Square, 760 HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. occupies the site of the old Shambles, and the incongruous mass of buildings adjacent thereto. It is in the Tuscan style of architecture ; the principal front is entirely of Whitby stone ; the sides and east front are of brick, with stone quoins, cornices, &c. The front exhibits an arcade of flve arches, sup ported by f pillars ; in three of the arches are large windows, and the other two are occupied by entrance gateways. In the pediment is a semicircular window. On each side of the entrances is a circular medaUion, charged with a carving of the Town's Arms. The building measures externally 151J feet in length, and 50 feet 8 inches in breadth ; the internal width, from the front of the shops on either side, is 80 feet ; and the height in the clear space is 50 feet to the ridge. The roof is of iron and glass, of simple con struction, and abundant light is derived from it, and from a row of semi circular lights over the shops. The market is divided into thirty-one neat shops, and ranges of stalls run down the haU, thereby forming long and spacious avenues. There is also a central avenue running from north to south (with an entrance on the south side of the market), in which it was intended to erect an ornamental fountain. Across the ends of the hall are galleries ; and the whole area underneath the hall is cellared ; part of which is used for the sale of fish and other articles, and the remaining part for the stowage of various commodities. There are two spacious gateways at each end of the market, and one at the south side. The site of the haU cost the Company about £9,000. ; and the building upwards of £7,000. Eailway Station. — The prosperity of Scarborough, both as a port, and as a celebrated place of fashionable resort, has been enhanced by the exten sion to it of the grand railway connection, whioh have revivified many of even of our most respectable towns. The North Eastern Eailway Company's lines extend to this place from the City of York and the town of HuU. The Station is situated on Falsgrave Walk, and is a spacious and handsome cut stone building. The front has, in its centre, a fine portico, supported by twelve Doric pillars in couples, with a cut stone railing on the top. The interior is lightsome and pleasant. The area in front of the Station is sepa rated from the street by a long range of iron palisades, with handsome entrance gates, piers, &c, Theatee, — This place of amusement stands in St. Thomas' Street (formerly Tanner Street), and is a very plain building for such a fashionable town as Scarborough ; but several improvements are about to be made in it by Mr. Samuel Eoxby, the proprietor and manager. It is open for dramatic enter tainments during the summer months. Sayings' Bank. — This is a neat stone-fronted edifice in King Street, HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 761 containing offices for the transaction of business, above which is a board room, which is sometimes used (with permission of the trustees) by the Com mittees of different Societies, for the management of their affairs. A state ment of the amount deposited in this bank, &c., will be found at page 737. Post Office. — This establishment has just been removed from No. 50, Newborough Street, to a new and more commodious building, erected expressly for it. The situation is one of great convenience to the public. Eeceiving houses have also been opened within the last few years, at convenient distances from the general office. Mr. George Wheldon is the present postmaster. BoEOUGH Gaol and House op Coeeection, Castle Boad. — This is a brick buUding, erected in 1841, It contains twelve separate cells for prisoners, and adjoining it is a large yard, used for breaking stones, that being the labour to which convicts are put. The apartments over the arched gateway of the old Newborough Bar were formerly used as a Debtor's Prison (See page 757) ; and a part of the Workhouse was once converted into a HoMse of Correction. LITEEAEY INSTITUTIONS,— Philosophical and Aeohjsological Society, — The Scarborough Philosophical Society was founded in 1837, and the attention of the members was soon directed to the importance of a Museum, in which the rich treasures of the coast, general subjects of natural history, and local antiquities might be preserved and exhibited. This object has been effected, and the edifice is described at page 757. The Archmological Society was formed in 1848, under the patronage of Lord Londesborough, and has recently been incorporated with the Philo sophical Society. Papers on interesting subjects are occasionally read by some of the members of the PhUosophical and Archaeological Society, and many valuable books have been presented by Lord Londesborough, the Society of Antiquarians, and by gentlemen interested in the proceedings of the Association. The Society has for its object the promotion of science, and the investigation of the natural history of the town and neighbourhood ; ¦and in .pursuance of that object, it has opened several barrows of the British period on the estates of Lord Londesborough, of Sir J. V. B. Johnstone, and of the Eev. E. Skelton, of Lewisham. Mechanics' Institution, Odd FeUows' HaU (See page 759). From the Twenty-sixth Annual Eeport of the Scarborough Mechanics' Institute (1856), we learn that the Society numbers 881 members, amongst whom are the ParUamentary representatives of the Borough, the Vicar, and many of the leading clergy and gentry of the town. The Library contains about 1,300 volumes, and the Beading Eoom is weU supplied with periodicals. This 5 E 763 HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. Association is incorporated with the Yorkshire Union of Mechanics' Institutes, LiBEAEiES AND News Eooms, — The Scarborough Subscription library. King Street, CUff, and formerly known as the " Agricultural and General Library," is the only public subscription library in the town, independent of literary institutions. It was formed on the 1st of July, 1801, chiefly by some gentiemen who were anxious to advance the agricultural interests of the neighburhood. Since then, however, the books on agriculture were sold, and works of general literature (some of which class had already been added), substituted. The library now contains about 5,000 volumes. The amount of subscription is £1, per ann. The Subscription News Room is held under the same roof as the library, and is the only annual news room in Scarborough, not connected with literary institutions. The room is well suppUed with newspapers, and the annual subscription is £1, 5s. The view of the sea and harbour from the Ubrary and news room is excellent. There are, as before stated, libraries in connection with the Philosophical and Archcelogical Society and the Mechanics' Institute, and a reading and news room in connection with the latter ; besides which there is a free library at the Girls' School of the Amicable Society, and also Ubraries connected with some of the Dissenting Chapels. A News Room is also open here in the season at Mr. Theakston's, book seller, St. Nicholas' Street, where is likewise an extensive circulating library. The Scarborough Gazette, a weekly newspaper containing a Ust of the visitors, is published every Thursday morning during the season, by Mr. Theakston, St. Nicholas Street. This paper is neutral in politics. HoETicuLTUEAL SociETY. — A Floral and Horticultural Society was formed in Scarborough, in 1840, and its flrst exhibition was held in the Town HaU, in the month of September in that year. It usually holds two exhibitions every year, in the months of July and September. Tempeeance Societies. — The Scarborough Temperance Society has been established some years, and the number of its members is considerable. A new association has recently been formed, called The Working Men's Tem perance Society, and the public lectures of both bodies are generally held in the lecture room of the Mechanics' Institute (Odd Fellows' HaU). Cemeteey. — The authorities of the town having agreed that the condi tions of the Act, 16th and 17th of Victoria, cap. 184, should be acted upon, and that a burial board should be formed under the Burial Board Act, a field, called Chapman's Pasture, containing ten aores, situated about half a mile from the town on the north west side, was lately purchased for £3,000., HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 763 and appropriated as a general cemetery. The ground, which is very taste fully laid out, and planted with shrubs, &c., is divided into eight sections- one half, or four of the eight parts, being set apart for the use of the members of the EstabUshed Church ; three of the remaining sections for Protestant Dissenters, and the remaining section for CathoUcs. It contains about 6,000 grave spaces, and 830 plot vaults. In the centre of the ground is a handsome Gothic edifice, consisting of two Chapels, connected by a tower, the basement story of which is open for the admission of the hearse, or bier, to pass through, and on each side of which are entrances to the Chapels. The building is in the Decorated style, of hammer dressed stone, with tooled ashler dressings, and is buttressed at the sides and angles. The roofs are high pitched, with an ornamental ridging. The windows have some good tracery in the heads, and the gables are surmounted with six ornamental crosses. The arohed-way between the Chapels and beneath the tower is stone groined, and from its centre rises a beautiful structure, consisting of a square tower, with carved canopies and pinnacles ; and above this is an octagonal lantern, sur mounted with a neat spire of tooled ashler. The piUars and entrance gate way to the cemetery are of a novel character ; and on each side is a neat building, one of which is intended as a residence for the Superintendent, and contains a Committee room, and the other the sexton's residence. The first interment took place in this cemetery on the 11th of June, in the present year (1857), when the remains of Mr, Francis Prince, landlord of the Ship Inn, Falsgrave, was buried in it — though the grounds had not then been consecrated, or regularly opened for public burials, LoNGEyiTY, — Scarborough is remarkable for the longevity of its inhabitants, and the temperature of the place is favourable to invalids in winter, Bigland says, " Scarborough appears, in a great measure, to owe its salubrity to its situation on the accUvity of a hiU, lying exposed to the sun, weU ventilated by the southerly and south-westerly winds, and by the current of air which accompanies every flowing tide. The winds from the north and north-east blow also with considerable force ; and being checked by the Castie-hiU, form an eddy, which, mounting over the rocks, is forced down upon the town, by the strength of the superior curients, and ventUates the narrow lanes and passages," We have shewn at page 716 of this volume, that William Allanson, one of the " Governors " of Scarborough Spa, who died in 1775, attained the age of 103 years, Bartholomew Johnson, musician, died here in his 104th year, on the 7th of February, 1814, He was born at Wykeham, near Scarborough, on the 764 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. 3rd of October, 1710, and resided at Scarborough from the time of his bdng apprenticed to the humble profession of a barber, to the time of his death ; and was nearly seventy years one of the town's waits. As a musician, and for the very many exceUent traits in his character, he uniformly preserved the esteem of a highly respectable circle of friends. On attaining his 100th year a jubilee dinner was given, and a musical performance, at the Free mason's Lodge, Scarborough, at which some of the most celebrated composers at that time took part. About ten o'clock in the evening the venerable old man took part in a quartette, by performing on the violonceUo, the bass to a minuet of his own composition sixty years previous. This interesting event took place on the 3rd of October, 1810. A portrait of Mr. Johnson, painted for Lord Mulgrave, by J. Jackson, Esq., E.A., and afterwards presented to the Corporation by his lordship, now embellishes one of the ante-rooms of the Town Hall. A tombstone, with a suitable inscription, is erected to his memory in Wykeham Churchyard. On the 33rd of May, 1857, H, Preston, Esq., of the Crescent, Scarborough, treated to tea and other refreshments forty-two old men and women resident in Scarborough, whose united ages amounted to 3,045 years, giving the average number of 74^ years to each person, Oliver's Mount. — This is a commanding eminence a little to the south west of Scarborough, overlooking the town. Its original name was Weapon Ness, a compound word, weapon, indicating a place of defence, and ness, a point of land. . The present name has arisen from a mistaken opinion that Oliver Cromwell erected batteries against the Castle during the siege of 1644-5. But it is an indisputable historical fact that Cromwell was never present at the siege. The hill rises above five hundred feet above the level of the sea, and from its summit, which forms a natural terrace, is a magnificent pros pect of the coast, the Castle, the ocean, bounded only by the horizon to the east ; and in the west, the extensive moors, the wolds, and the rich and cul tivated vales, stretching out towards Pickering and Malton. It is said that in this direction, on a clear day, with a good glass, Castle Howard, the splendid seat of the Earl of Carlisle, may be seen, though at a distance of twenty-eight miles. In 1797, the adjoining land was enclosed, and the brow of the hill planted with trees, which adds to its beauty. At the foot of the hill is The Mere, formerly a fine sheet of water, abounding with pike, perch, and eels ; but now much contracted by the formation of the railroad, which runs on one side. " The rank growth of vegetation, and the deposit of sediment which has been accumulating for years," says the Scarborough Guide (ed. 1856), "have also materially aided in converting the HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. 765 lak&'on whose bosom the majestic swan was wont to repose, into a shaUow and useless marsh. It once afforded exceUent diversion to the angler; but, except when the frosts of winter congeal its surface, causing it to become a scene of animation ; it now possesses no attraction beyond the pleasant walk along its margin in returning from a summer day's ramble in its neigh bourhood." A most agreeable wooded retreat in the immediate vicinity of the town is known as The Plantation. Here many varieties of trees throw their shades across the winding paths and walks, whilst a sheet of water spreads its ¦ ample surface in the centre, giving coolness, verdure, and beauty to the spot.. Eminent Men. — Roger de Scardeburg, Abbot of Whitby, from 1388 to 1344, was a native of Scarborough. He is said to have been a man of great abUities, and of an upright honest character. Bobert de Scardeburg, another member of the higher order of ecclesiastics, was bom here. He appears to have been summoned as a Parliamentary Baron, in 1374, and subsequent years, being at that time Archdeacon of the East Eiding of Yorkshire.* He is styled in the writ of summons " Superior Magister Bobert de Scardeburg." He was elected in 1379, Dean of York, and died in the year 1390. (See page 386.) Simon de Scardeburgh was Abbot of Selby, in 1313, and died in 1831 ; a Robert de Scardeburgh was Vicar of Scarborough, in 1380, and Prior of Brid Ungton the year foUowing ; and another Robert de Scardeburg was M.P. for the Borough, in 1348. It is uncertain whether all the persons of this cog nomen were of the same family. ' Admiral Sir John Lawson, Knt., a distinguished naveil commander during the period of the Civil War, the Commonwealth, and for some time after the Eestoration, is said to have been born of humble parents, at Scarborough, though CampbeU, in his Lives of the Admirals, has fixed upon Hull as his native town. He received the honour of Knighthood from Charles II. The records of the Corporation of Scarborough, shew that he was many years one of the Common CouncU of the Borough. Thomas Hinderwell, Esq., the historian of Scarborough, was the son of Thomas and Eebekah Hinderwell, and was born at Scarborough, November 17th, 1744. In early life his father had been engaged in seafaring pursuits, and was for some years a master mariner and shipowner in this port ; but • According to Nicholas's Synopsis of the Peerage, vol. ii., pp. 715, 783, the Archdeacon of the East Eiding was usually summoned as a Peer of ParUament. 766 HISTOEY OF SCAEBOEOUGH. having realized a competency, he retired from sea, and for many years occu pied a commodious mansion on the CUff. In 1775 he was elected Junior Magistrate of the Borough, and he died in 1798, at the advanced age of . 93 years and 6 months. Our historian acquired the first principles of learning in his native town, but he was afterwards removed to the Grammar School of Coxwold, near Helmsley, then under the care of the Eev. E. Midgley. After leaving school he went to sea, and became master of a vessel ; and in 1775 he retired from it, having so far been successful as to render his cir cumstances at once easy and comfortable. In 1778 he was elected a member of the Corporation of Scarborough, and from that period took an active part in what was Ukely to promote the general interests of the town. Three years afterwards he was called to the chief magistracy of the Borough, and he also fiUed the civic chair in 1784, 1790, and 1800. In 1816 he retired from the Corporation. He was connected with the best of the public insti tutions of the town, and was a warm and constant friend to the cause of educa tion. He was more than forty years a supporter of the Amicable Society, and was elected its President in 1784. It was chiefly by his efforts that the Life Boat, whioh has been so successful in saving lives in cases of shipwreck, was obtained ; and he was also one of the flrst supporters of the Scarborough Humane Society. For a number of years Mr. HinderweU had been coUecting information U- lustrative of the history of his native place — though, as appears from his own statement, not with the remotest idea of ever giving it in any form to the public, but merely as a source of amusement for his leisure hours. The first edition of his principal work (for he wrote Remarks on the Times, and several small publications) the History and Antiquities of Scar borough, appeared in 1798, in one smaU quarto; a second edition was pubUshed in 1811, with considerable additions, by the author ; and a third edition of the work — almost unprecedented in the annals of topography- was published in 1833. The latter edition, which was ably edited by the Eev. Benjamin Evans, Baptist Minister of Scarborough, was much enlarged,. thoroughly revised, and greatiy improved. Drs. Travis and Murray, and Mr. Bean, furnished the Eev. editor with many valuable communications, to which their names are invariably attached. The latter gentieman furnished an important part to the natural history department. Mr. HinderweU (who was never married) died on the 33nd of October, 1885, in the 81st year of his age, and his remains were interred in the burial ground of St. Mary's, Scarborough. HISTOEY OP SCAEBOEOUGH. "* 767 Falsoeave Township, — Falsgrave, or Walsgrave township forms a western suburb of tbe town of Scarborough, and is included in the parish and Borough of Scarborough, When the Norman Survey was made, " Walsgrif " was the head of an extensive Manor and Soke, then belonging to the King (WiUiam I,), but previously was part of the possessions of Tosti, Earl of Northumbria, and brother to Harold, the last Anglo-Saxon King of England, (See page 675,) In the 40th of Henry HI, (1856), Falsgrave was disafforested and annexed to the Liberties of Scarborough, The present area, population, and rateable value of the township of Fals grave, will be found at page 734 of this volume. There are no very exten sive land owners in the township, Tbe VUlage of Falsgrave is situated one mile S,W, by W, of Scarborough, and the road to it from Scarborough, caUed Falsgrave Walk, which is lined with terraces and pleasant residences, is one of the most agreeable promenades in the Borough, The high road to York passes through the village. Here is a Wesleyan Chapel, which was erected by the late Mrs, EUzabeth Clark, of Scarborough, in 1843, The School, a plain brick tenement, with a beU in the gable, was built by subscription, in 1806. The Constables of Falsgrave hold certain property in trust for township purposes, out of which they pay the schoolmaster fifteen pounds a year, for teaching fourteen children. The above-mentioned beU is rung by the schoolmaster every week-day, at the hour of 8, 13, and 1. The Scarborough Gas Company have introduced gas ; into the village of Falsgrave. END OF VOL. I. BBVEBMY: PBIHIED by JOHN GEEEN, BABKET-PLAOE, 'Hi 03455 9865 YALE BRITISH HISTORIC PRESERVATION PROJECT SUPPORTED BY flEtT YA L E